The Wilmington morning star., 1945-02-15

Work With An
Eye On America
BY ADA DE KOFOED
ZAP Newsfeatures)

and patterns cut along billoWy fem
mime lines dominate Paris spring
fashions-most of them designed
with an eye to the American mar
ket.
A peek behind the closely guard
ed scenes Of leading dressmaking
establishments reveals an accent
on youth and activity for next
months style shows. Schiaparelli is
even stressing pleated and slit
skirts.
While designers for the dowagers
who rule the roost around the
Place Vendome and the Rue de
la Paix are quick to assert that
Partisan ideas still dominate the
fashion world, all of them are
choosing mannequins built on ram
gy American lines. Otherwise-so
they say-American ideas are hav-
ing little influence.
"Our ideas are French to the
core, but we are applying them
to American women" was the way
one designer put it. AS she spoke
she kept glancing out the window
at throngs of United States soldiers
as if wondering how many had
wives or sweethearts back home.
Soft lines and CHEEKY colors set
the tone for dresses being pre-
pared by Jeanne Lanvin. Her
dresses for at-home wear will be
longer, with wide sleeves and long
sca-fs to match. She also is pre-
pairing two-piece costumes in
brightly colored printed silks.
"1'n launch more feminine dress
es than ever, with soft lines, and
no shoulder padding except in tail
ored suits" said Lanvin, sitting
in her chilly atelier wrapped in
shaWls, her hands throust inside
a muff.
Nine. Basancon Wagner, known
in the fashion world as Maggie
Rouff, divulged that her spring
favorites will be pastel shades,
particularly patriotic light blue,
cream and rose, coupled with
swing toward naturalness.
when fashion becomes ex-
aggerated, as with the board
shoulders of the moment, it
must be changed, she said. This
spring will show modification
of the over-masculine square
shoulders, but will retain the
sports cut"
She predicted a natural waist
line. straight skirts and shorter
coats.
Outdoor sports and the active
life provide a motif for Schiapa-
relli, whose tall, aristocratic
leader explained:
Il used to take inspiration from
the museums. Now l take it from
life itself. Modern women must
have freedom of movement. -
Consequently Schiaparelli ban
ishes flounced or f1ared skirts and
dark colors.
Jean Desses is preparing bold
printed patterns in bright colors
for his collection, featuring a mar
row, sloping belt which results in
tight bodice effect.
Hats will still be high not as
abnormal as the fall fashions ane
Blanchot, president of the MILL
merry organization, is now prepar-
ing spring models trimmed in
ribbons and flowers.
The Paris houses still turn to
wedges for footwear, because of
the shortage of leather. Thick soled
in cork Or wood are expected 10
be fashionable
A novelty of the Rodier textile
collection is Scotch plaid with
white background, to match white
spring coats.
One notable selecting a ward
robe is Lieutenant of the French
Air Forces Josephine Baker, who
already has several tailored linen
short pleated skirts and belted
jackets.
Preparing for a world tour, Miss
Baker has selected dresses inspir-
ed by the countries she intends
to visit: For India, pale blue
georgette with a silver bordered
sari; for Russia, a gold brocade
fur-trimmed tunic worn over
long brown velvet skirt.
While the Paris spring openings
are slated for March, the average
woman will have to wait for warm
weather before she will be able
to see the new styles on the street
or in cafes and theaters.
Fuel shortage and cold weather
have forced the closing of many
theaters and cafes. The opera re-
mains open, but the audience hud-
dies in ski pants and overcoats.
Evening gowns can be glimpsed
if at all, only at special parties
in private home whose owners
are lucky enough to have coal or
wood enough to keep one or two
rooms comfortable.
-V
BIRTH ANNOUNCED
Mr.. and Mrs. James Leon Full