The Wilmington morning star., 1943-06-02
Women S Styles
Are Whitfield By
Gov 'ment Order
Additional Cuts To WPB's
Order Cuts Down On Col
lars, Cuffs and Pockets
BY ROsELLEN CALLAHAN


WASHINGTON, June 1.-Amer-
can designers face new chal-
lenge to their ingenuity. During
the past year they have shown
that they could create beautiful
clothes despite WPB's famous Or
der LBS, restricting materials.
Now WPB has amended LBS with
additional cuts n d restrictions
that will whittle the basic silhou-
cite down to the last buttonhole,
ruffle and bow.
This further simplification, the
WIPE explains, is to step up the
unji output of women's and chll-
dren's clothing out OF available
cotton. rayon and wool fabrics.
And the increased production OF
dresses, suits and coats resulting
from the pairing down OF extrava-
CANT trimmings, sweep OF skirts,
and Standardization of sizes Will
stave off any immediate need OF
clothes rationing.
Here are some of the new clothes
conservation limitations:
For all women's, misses and
Junior misses dresses trimming
lis limited to 700 square inches OF
nontransparent fabrics (about ~
yaro of 39-inch materiaD and 14OO
square inches (about one yard) OF
transparent fabric.
Out of this allowance must come
whatever collars, cuffs, pockets,
bows, peplums, tunics, tiers,
aprons, overskirts, ruffles, flaps,
tabs, tucking, pleating, shirring,
drapes or any other means OF
trimming the designer plans to
put into the dress.
Dresses manufa ctured according
to the new restrictions announced
have been reduced to a72-inch
skirt sweep for size 16. The hip
measurement for this same size
dress will be limited to 56 inch
es and the sleeve length to 30
inches. There will be no bi-sWing,
vent or Norfolk-type backs and no
sleeve facings over l IL inches.
Two buttons and 2 buttonholes
for each cuff are the limit, and
one ruffle not exceeding 3 inches
in width. No more than two pock-
cts. inside or out Patch pocket
may use only AZ square inches OF
material. And no more than four
pocket flaps, limited to 18 square
| inches of fabric, each.
Banned for the first time are
double breasted suits and jackets
(not included, however, are suit
dresses with unlined jackets), Gu
lottes, reversible skirts, Ii n d
skirts, quilted skirts; dress with
bi-wing, vent or Norfolk type
backs; and epaulets or tabs on
the shoulders of dresses, u is,
jackets and coats.
Brought under control for the
first time are neckWear, toddlers
togs and maternity dresses. In
neckwear, for instance, cuffs are
deep. They may have no more
than two buttons and buttonholes.
French cuffs are banned, as are
double collars or revers.
Collars are to be no more than
five inches wide, there are to be
no more than two separate trim
ming bows, no all-over tucking or
shirring, nor quilting which uses
more than 100 square inches OF
material. If more than four extra
inches of material are needed for
pleating. tucking or shirring, then
no ruffle, jabot or fill will be
permitted.
Mothers of youngsters from to
4 years old will have to worry
about such things as no cuffs on
sleeves of jackets, suits or coats;
no dress sashes over 3 inches Wloe
and no bibs with fabric Logging
sets.
Though maternity dresses ar
now liable to the same general
restrictions, they are permitted a
sweep of 80 inches for size OF 1t
or junior miss size Is, and "a inch
es for a size of 40, as well as an
extra inch in length. Also, where
as trimming allowances are cut
again on regular dresses. if the
hip measurement exceeds the
''body basic hip allowance, full
trimmings may be used in ma
ternity clothes.
And those who go shopping in
the near future for an evening
frock will find that models made
of nontransparent material will
have skirts with a sweep of no
more than 80 inches, as compared
to 144 inches permitted previously,