Evening star., 1943-01-29
McLemore-
Tells Cooking Editors
To Try Own Dishes
BY HENRY MeLEMoRE.

by HENRY McLkMOhE.
We have . bone-An unrationed
bone. of course-to pick with the
cooking editors OF the Nations
newspapers
Until recently We scarcely knew
that the food and kitchen pages
existed. having left that section to
the little woman while We read the
more virile pages containing news
Of spofts, society and realty
transfers.
But with the advent Of rationing
we started reading the cooking
pages, and have gradually worked
up q pretty good mad against the
ladies who use such mons de plume
as Sally Skillet. Mrs. Apple Turn
over and Betty Brisket, and who tell
you what TO cook, how to cook 1t,
whats in season. what's out OF sea-
son. where to buy and how TO dis
tinguish between 9 chuck roast and
q saddle of squirrel.
Right now the cooking editors are
having field day. They are run
ming hog-wild and enjoying the
same free hand that was given the
military experts when the war was
In It's early stages.
Public Service.
With food scarce and getting
scarcer. they are letting their imag-
nations get the best Of them In
connecting recipes for dishes that do
not call for the products that are
rationed or soon TO be rationed.
This, Of course, can't be criticized.
1t won't be long before the house.
wives Of the Nation will need, and
need badly, help in preparing meals
that do not require sirloin steak,
butter, cream and al Of the other
items which will be next to impos-
sible to get. q
So, In giving recipes for such
meals, they are doing . public serv-
ice. bat-and here Is where We start
picking that bone with them-they
needn't perjure themselves to the
extent Of saying that these dishes
are as good as the ones they wera
designed to replace.
1t makes our intelligence as wefl
as our taste buds spring to arms TO
read recipe for kidney bean roast
that ends Yum yum. The family
will like 1t better than = real beef
roast"
Says who7 What family Is going
to like . kidney bean roast better
than 1t would real, rich, rare beef
roast, swimming In It's own juices
and giving OF an aroma that makes
the mouth water7 Even Pollyanna
at her Pollyannest couldn't keep
straight face while writing such af,
untruth. n
This Is rust one example Of what
the cooking editors are doing In 0
misguided effort TO prepare us for
ersatz dishes. Actually, the kidney
bean roast sounds well alongside
some Of the recipes We have read.
Fat OF Doorknob.
One OF the editors-It Is Molly
Macaroni, We beheve-preaches on
her page each day that SKINNED
milk Is better than cream, that the
fat of . doorkrlob is much more to
be desired than creamery butter,
and that any one who would choose
q fat lamb chop when he could get
. heart OF rabbit IL crazy.
The American public is ready 10
eat the less choice cuts OF meats.
1t won't complain. But, Just be-
cause cabbage, say, Is plentiful, 10
no reason for . cooking editor to
say that fried cabbage Is q heaven
sent breakfast dish that will make
one forget all about the delights of
crisp becon and eggs. Yet I read
only the other day where some
cooking editor said q man really
hadn't lived until he jumped out
OF bed. took = cold shower, dressed
and sat down to q breakfast Of
fried cabbage, Brussels sprouts
sunny-side up, hsshed brown OK
tails. and a steaming cup of "oof-
fee" made from several shrubs in
cluding pine cones.
We Americans may come TO such
dishes, but I'm giving 10 to 1, cook
Ing editors to the contrary. that
none OF n win ever get up from
the table smacking his lips and
saying. That really hit the spot
yum yum"
Our suggestion Is that the cook
ing editors eat some of the dishes
they concoct. TIN undoubtedly
change their tunes.
distributed by MeNsusht Syndicate. rnny