davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1943-02-07
Button, Button
FaStenings Haze an Interesting History
BY Gael Renfresf,

Buttons are undeniably one OF
our hlessings-so much of a ne
cessity that we cannot think of a
time when they were not. Yet
they were an advantage unknown
TO the ancients. 1t was by girdles
that the Greek and Roman wo-
men fastened their loose flowing
garments.
While buttons are thought to
have been in use in Southern
Europe in the 18th or 14th CEN
tury, it was not until the age. Of
the mighty Elizabeth that their
manufacture ranked as a trade in
England.
characterization was the original
function filled by buttons. The
earliest examples were made of
costly materials-gold, silver or
precious stones, delicately FASH
ioned by jeWeler or handcrafts-
man. AS their status altered and
they became useful rather than
decorative articles, a wider and
wider list of materials was en-
plOyed for their manufacture,
until today it seems as if there is
hardly anything that hasn't done
duty as a buttonmaker. They are
fashioned from mother OF pearl,
ivory horn, bone, hOof. glass,
porcelain. wood, celluloid, linen,
papier mache- even milk and
blood!
The vegetable ivory most COM
monty used in buttOnmaklng
comes from the nut of a South
American palm tree. 1t has the
advantage of being softer than
the bona foe article and can be
dyed to match cloth. The nuts
are cut in half and the buttons
then stamped out by machinery.
Pearl buttons. at one time made
entirely from imported materials,
are now made from Mississippi
River mOlluSkS. Several Of the
400 species Of mussels found In
this river are suitable for button
manufacture, and fishing goes on
throughout the year, even when it
has to be done under the ice.
Evening star., 1943-02-07
Do You Know What's Going on, Where and Why?

truth, and the truth shall make
them free? No empty words,
those. And the search for truth
is trultless unless we both gather
and digest the facts. Are you
right up there in the know what
you're talking about department.?
Or are you sewing circle
strateglst who listens 10 and be-
leves people who don't know as
much as they should? DO you
repeat mauthOritatlye opinions?
Being able to discuss intelli-
gently only the phases Of the war
effort which touch you as a
housewife Isn I enough, either.
You should have a good idea Of
what's going on throughout the
world that makes the regulations
on the home front necessary.
You should have enough back
ground, AT least, to be able TO
discuss and explain worldwide
current events to your children
and yourself.
Evening star., 1943-02-07

incidentally, win our vote Of ap-
proval, for they are smart and
youthful and very much 1913"
in feeling.
In colors, there's plenty to talk
about and to choose from. Bright,
cheerful tones, gay reds, violets,
green's and Colds are heavily rep
resented and most of these are
toned down with dark accessories.
On the other hand, with so many
women looking to the future,
navy and gray are expected to be
terrific because they are al
ways wearable and can be COM
bined with almost any color ac-
cessories. Flowers on the lapel.
bright little hats, gay ornamental
jewelry. frothy blouses and bril-
liant gloves are among the ac-
cessory Ideas advocated for
spring. Some of the new "posy-
trimmed hats have matching
boutonnieres or flower chokers
to add a little feminine interest.
Also being featured are short
jacketed suits with deceptive"
front treatment. In other words,
the jacket may have an appli-
qued loop Of bow set nat at
either side OF the closing. Then,
the skirt has the "streamers' of
the bow appliqued on 1t, 50 that
when the two are together the
effect is of an diversified bow
reaching from jacket to skirt.
It's new and different-and has
the "dressmaker look" that is 50
much desired by smart women.
It's going to be a suit spring.
all right. You can count on It.
It's also going to be a spring In
which women will buy carefully
OF what they need, transforming
one outfit into several by a flick
of the well-cuffed wrist.
Evening star., 1943-02-07

Its practically impossible to co
a good Job at home during these
Wartimes without knowing what's
going on-and where. With
every new food shortage. and
every ratlOnlng regulation; with
every blackout rule. with every
wartime restriction at home, the
Women Of our country are be-
coming more and more work
ln2 group IN winning the war.
However, the responsibility IS
resting Oh inadequate shoulders
If American women don't know
rs much as possible about what's
gong on'
Reading the newspaper and
listening to broadcasls over the
radio is, Of course. essential. but
IN addition we've got to do some
independent thinking on living in
wartime Who was 1t sand that
it is the principle of democracy
that the people shall know the
Evening star., 1943-02-07

Mrs. Housewife, gather yourself
some information!
An excellent idea is to hang
wall map up in the kitchen In
congruous, perhaps, but if that's
where you spend most Of the day
and if that's where you do your
thinking while baking or clean
ing up-then that's where the
map belongs Knowing what's
going on entails studying the
geography OF this worldwide war.
1t means knowing something
about what the supply-lines of
the world are. What products
and materials come from where.
You can't learn anything about
geography without a map,
Why is 1t so important that you
know what goes on? It's the only
way to keep faith in our country.
It's the best way we know for
combating false rumors and lies.
You're heating your family and
yourself by having only a nod
ding acquaintance with war facts.
Evening star., 1943-02-07

By now you probably have
realized that Jackets have a no.
ticeably shorter look and that
skirts, although by no means
'Sklmpv, are simmer. However.
the restrictions have only sue
ceeded in making them look more
sculptured. better designed than
ever. Most Of them have only r.
pleat or two or, in some cases,
scanning that initiates pleats and
gives a full look. Most jackets
are medium length except in the
very new and quite dressy styles
where the jacket is very short,
basque-like or even bolero. These,
Evening star., 1943-02-07

The shells are bought from the
fishermen, put to soak for several
days in barrels of water and
sawed into blanks. then finally
polished into the finished
products.
Glass buttons, which originated
In Czechoslovakia, are generally
made by softening the end OF a
glass rod with heat and pressing
1t into mold.
Buttons are of three kinds:
Those seWed TO the garment
through holes in the button itself,
those having A shank Of metal,
and those having a layer or tuft
Of cloth or felt.
Campaign and society buttons
represent recent enlargement Of
the button industry: they are
generally made from celluloid for
this purpose.
Button collecting has been
recognized as one Of the hobbies.
An absorbing occupation it is too
The older the more aristocratic"
seems to be the slogan for the
collector. Revived interest has
brought to light a surprising
number of exquisite handmade
examples. and enthusiasts rejoice
over jets, enamels and cloisonnes,
while find Of first Importance
IS the paperWeight button, a copy
on minute scale of old paper
weights.
1t seems that among our grand
DANES one OF the popular fads
was a charm string" made by
threading buttons on Waxed
string. Among the number was
a touch button" known only to
the owner. Any one who chanced
to touch this button when
handling the charm string had to
pay forfeit Since this forfeit
was also exacted in buttons the
collection grew in size and variety.
Part Of the equipment of any
we'll ordered household is but
ton bag OF a button box. The
contents, when spilled out. are
likely to present a glittering pile.
Evening star., 1943-02-07
You'll Be Well Suited This Spring
Classic Fai Qualities

One of the leading fashion
magazines reports that Mrs.
winston Churchill recently went
to Londons famous Henri in
Grosvenor Square and ordered a
three piece suit, but finding that
she had only enough coupons for
the skirt and blouse-She 6 now
waiting for the next coupon issue
to complete her Wardrobe
American women not as we'll
known are far more fortunate in
selecting their suits for spring.
Actually. they can't have three
piece models under WPB regula-
tions, but they can have two
piece ones and buy matching coats
or harmonizing blouses across
the aisle" in another department
without benefit, so fat, of
coupons.
And this year they're buying
suits more feverishlv and earlier
than ever. For IN addition to the
variability and versa tillty Of
suits, this apparel knows no
season. Many OF them are worn
all winter under coats and many
of them will be truly year round
garments in the modern feminine
wardrobe.
Generally speaking, there are
three types: Soft suits, casual
styles and tailored ones. Your
choice will depend upon your
needs and upon the length of
wear you expect from your pur-
chase. Mems wear worsteds, for
example, are sturdy, durable
duration suits" but they are no
more popular than gray fannels
or other woolens, navy twills,
monotone tweeds and soft. dress
maker woolens. Checked and
striped suits play an important
part in the picture, the latter
frequently with stripes going the
Evening star., 1943-02-07
Rr Helen Toef

other way" on pockets or bind
ings, decorative feature to
watch.
So far, early selling reports
indicate that the button suit
is the favorite in tailored or
casual types. This. Of course, is
because the simple lines take we'll
to changes Of accessories. either
tailored or quite "fussy.' Many OF
these suits are slightly softened,
too, by new pocket and lapel
treatments, fancy porcelain or
leWeled buttons and other details
that are not part of the strictly
tailored look.
Evening star., 1943-02-07
Stenciling Is
Easy to Do
BY MarQayet NoweH

Stencilng is an easy hand
craft and one OF the most de-
lightful ways to decorate a dull
room or the furniture that goes
IN it. The equipment is Of the
simplest and, best Of all, the
work may be put down and
taken up again when you have a
free half hour.
Long before the days Of wall
paper, and later when wallpaper
was very expensive luxury,
many charming rooms were dec
GRATED with stencil designs.
Workmen came by in the spring.
time after a new coat OF white
wash or water paint had
freshened the walls and deco
rated the best" rooms with bor-
ders or whole wall designs OF
stencil patterns in several colors.
Very nice effects can be OBJ
tanned with the simplest pat
terms, and "the sky is the limit"
II you wish to cut your own
stencils and design them for i'm
portant locations such as over a
fireplace, on either side of a door
or above the chair rail in the
dining room.
Wallpaper and art supply stores
have a large collection of designs
which may be purchased for a
small amount. There are run
ming border designs with match
ing corners and turns. You will
need one straight border and the
various turns which your own
room demands, depending on
where you wish to use the pat
tern. II you decide to use a bor-
der just around the chair rail In
the dining room, or close to the
ceiling line, you will need only
the straight boroer. But if you
wish to carry it around doors
and windows you will need both
inside and outside turns to
complete the corners effectively,
Equipment necessary consists
OF tubes Of oil paint in the de-
sired colors, stencil brush,
which looks somewhat like
shaving brush, and the patterns.
Turpentine is used to thin the
paint slightly though it is used
much thicker for stenciling than
for other ordinary painting. Prac-
tise by holding the stencil on
paper and stripping on the
paint to fill the pattern. Then
lift the pattern straight up from
the paper so that the edges will
not blur When you feel accom-
plshed enough with the tech
nique, and the cOlors are salts
factory, you are ready to place
the pattern on the wall. Pat
terms may be cleaned with tur-
pentine and soft cloth when
they become clogged with paint.
You may make your own stem
ellis by tracing a design on stem
Gil paper and then cutting out
the design with sharp knife or
razor blade. Some study is neces-
sary In making stencil design
in order to keep the spaces be-
tween the figures uniform in
size and heavy enough SO that
they will not break with use. BY
doing your own you may acquire
an individual effect or carry out
a design which is already part
of your decorative scheme. Drap-
cry fabric often has border or
panel design that lends itself very
we'll to stencil.
Evening star., 1943-02-07
Washington
Wears

What with visiting celebrities
giving the town gala appear
ance and the Wardrobes of Wash
ington women showing a remark
able tendency to be springlike,
this has been quite a week for
fashion reporters. Noting what
the smartest ladies are wearing
is always a fascinating job, but
it is doubly so when their cos
TUNES show ingenuity and care
full planning.
One of the new 'blackout"
turbans was becomingly worn by
Jeanne Mcmahon the other eve
ming. She combined it with a
black frock trimmed in white for
well co-ordinated appearance.
Also an advocate of the ''repeti-
ton theme is pretty Mrs. Robert
Young, wife of the screen star.
Glimpsed in a local restaurant,
she had selected a tiny. high
crowned hat in blue and white
stripes, the same striped taffeta
material repeated on the lapels
of her dark dress. Actress
Geraldine Fitzgerald drapes a
sequin spangled mantilla over
her hair, for charm and pro-
lection against the elements.
Blond Virginia Johnson knows
the effectiveness of black with
her glistening glamour girl
bob. She wore black street
dress with a plastron of bright
red at dinner the other evening.
Hannah Fiddler, now a WASH
ington resident, likes little caps
on which she pins flowers to
match her ensemble. changing
their color and location to suit
her current costume.
Dancing to Xavier Cueat's
music was chic Bootsie Casslnl
in long torso dinner gown with
purple bodice and multicolored
striped skirt. To complete the
very Latin American look she
piled her dark hair high on her
head and topped it with large
flowers which repeated the COL
OrS of the dress. Also dash
ing in for quick samba was
pretty Patty Prochnik in a pale
pink decollette gown highlighted
with cleaning necklace.
At a very small and choice
party for Edgar Bergen with
out Charlie Mrs. Gardner Moore
wore a smart, severely cut black
frock, topped with a big, foppy-
brimmed black hat At
small dinner, early in the week,
it was refreshing to see two ladies
III flOor-length gowns. Mrs. War
rem Delano Robbins chose a
frock IN Two shades of gray,
with panel Of flame color down
the front. and Mrs, H. H. Rogers
wore deep violet, with halter
neckline and gold jewelry. There
is no doubt about it that after
dark long skirts are the most
glamOrous. Maybe We'll lust
have to get used to wearing them
on street cars and buses.
Beautiful Maria Oreamuno
wears a tiny velvet calot with
a black afternoon frock and has
been pinning one-half Of pair
Of matching clips 10 the edge Of
the little bonnet. while the other
clip adorns her shoulder or neck
line.
Evening star., 1943-02-07
i5iijii{ fi55ii3jiiE{.E!: !
FU.. 0sszApk -
loYEARS YOUNGER
ioYsARs YOUNGER

. Now. at homo, YOU can quickly and easily tin
from lightest blonde to darkest hlsck Rrnwpo
tone and small brush does it--or yeur none,
pack ! sed Tor 80 years by thousa nds of yorneI
lmen. tool Brownatone is e1iarant God barninss
no skn test needed. active Coorug agent is n,IrelI
vegetable. Cannot affect waving Of hair ssttne
1oes not wash out, just brush OF comh n in in
spplcauon lmparts desired color Simnlv retonci
as new gray appears, Easy to prove b. 'tinting ,
test lock OF your hair e0c and 81 Is 4, ttro.a s
much at drug or toilet counters on n rnoneI. L a.
guarantee, ASK for RROWNATONE, (;etit todaI I'D,
Toledo union journal. [volume] (Toledo, Ohio) 1942-current, 1943-05-21
SerUiCenen's s
Letters
Africa Not Like u. S.

Dear Mike:
| received your welcome letter
and am glad you wrote, anC also
to learn the JAW is doing well
in Lima. You can't imagine how
wish / were there with you
again. There's nothing in this
country like we knew back in
the states. About all there is here
is flies, bugs and grasshoppers,
also lot of camels, jackasses
and veiled women. The beer is no
good, the wine is fair, but a
little hard to get. Incidentally, |
hear liquor isn't so easy to get
in the states. How about it?
Give Howard Seren and Julia
my best. | think of you all a lot
these days and wonder what you
are doing. I'm glad you fellows
are still in a position to do work
for the Union. | feel pretty safe
with Dick Gosser on the job and
think he will take care of every
thing all right.
The Arabs here live a lot
worse than the colored people in
the L. S., so you can imagine
the rest. They even eat out Of
our garbage dumps, Write again.
Chris.
Toledo union journal. [volume] (Toledo, Ohio) 1942-current, 1943-05-21
Price Ceilings

Price ceilings published in the daily
papers seems TO have proven boon to the
food retailers of Toledo who are gleefully
rubbing their hands and privately applaud
ing the Office of Price Administration.
But the people of Toledo are not APP
plauding, for they are the ones who, in
stead of getting relief from the high
prices, have been given still higher food
costs TO meet on wages and salaries, which,
for all practical purposes, remain frozen.
Public indignation is on the increase,
and unless some prompt action is taken
by the OPA to correct and remedy the
local situation, may lead to more drastic
action.
Our people are willing to work, buy
bonds, give their blood and sons and
daughters to help win the war, or make
any other necessary sacrifice to bring us
to victory; but they very definitely do not
want to have their patriotism insulted by
profiteers who are taking advantage of
the blinded stupidity of the Office of Price
Administration.
People of Toledo want relief from high
prices and they want il now. They are
tired of broken promises and want cor
rectiye action taken Immediately.
Toledo union journal. [volume] (Toledo, Ohio) 1942-current, 1943-05-21

all over the country This point calls for an imme-
diate price roll-back to the September 15, 1912,
level.
IMMEDIATE RESULTS
1t has been our experience ever Since the war
started that wage increases have not only been
difficult to get; but that it takes months before
our cases come before the WLB.
In the meantime, prices have continued to go
up and patience has been thin We
indignant and with good reason, for our wages are
frozen within the limits set by the little steel
formula whereas the price ceilings have not prov
en- effective.
Because we have had our wages held within the
rigid confines of the little steel formula, while
prices have not been similarly held in rigid
troll, it appears to that our first point must be
to insist that the OPA cut the prices back to the
ceiling of September Is, 1912, when the prices
first began to spiral.
WE CAN WIN
Everything is on our side of the struggle. The
injustice of holding wages within narrow limits
while allowing prices to rise is so evident tha[s !
everyone agrees something must be done al in
done quickly -
This propose to do ourselves by whatever
action may be necessary to call the attention of
the public to the injustice of our treatment, and
by so doing win the support of the public in our
efforts to place effective price ceilings on
dties, particularly food.
We can and must succeed in our efforts to roll
back the prices to the September Is, 1912, level.
Public sentiment is side, for the public is
composed for the most part of workers like our
selves, who suffer from high prices and frozen
wages.
The program is being prepared and will quickly
unfold itself. Hold yourselves in readiness to unite
for prompt action, and when the proper time
comes very. soon, unite with your fellow workers
to force the roback of prices to the limits set by
the OPA, which have been and being, violated
daily by the selfish individuals and firms who up
to now have not felt the full force of the workers
or public indignation.
Your wages and will be increased, not by
the War Labor Board but by your own action.
You can give yourself raise in wages without
appealing to the WLB or waiting months for
doubtful answer.
Before get an increase in real
wages, we must first roll back the prices. After
this has been done, then we can ask for increases
and they will mean something.
Toledo union journal. [volume] (Toledo, Ohio) 1942-current, 1943-05-21
The Common Cause

In the face of the growing opposition
to labor in congress, in state legislatures,
in the press and on the radio, the need for
unity in the ranks of labor becomes in
creasingly clearer.
All over the country, the trend is to
closer working harmony and unity be-
tween the CIO and AFL, not merely be-
cause il is the expressed wish of President
Philip Murray of the CIO and President
William Green of the AFL; but because
the workers realize that only by unity of
purpose and action can there be a strong
and effective labor movement.
In Toledo labor peace and unity is in
sight as a result of the action of the CIO,
through its central organization, the To-
IedO Industrial Union Council. A committee
of seven has been formed to cooperate and
work with a similar committee which the
AFL has been requested to form, and an
invitation has been sent the older labor
organization asking it to go along in peace
and unity on program of mutual defense
and to advance the common cause.
This is not the time to quibble or bicker
over the smaller considerations and mis-
understandings which have existed be-
tween labor organizations. This is the time
for labor to unite, submerge its differences
where it cannot adjust them, and present
a strong common front to a strong and de-
termined common enemy.
Truly, there is strength in unity, and
Divided We Fall'' truer than they are to-
day. Let us unite in the common cause.
Let us face our enemies secure in our own
strength and give back blow for blow the
attacks which our enemies have heaped
upon US.
This is the time TO act. Now is when
we need unity. Tomorrow may be too late.
Toledo union journal. [volume] (Toledo, Ohio) 1942-current, 1943-05-21
A Costly Lesson

DIR. George Gallup's Institute of Public
Opinion has released figures which explain
better than words why Labor today is in
defensive position.
According to the Institutes figures, and
there is no reason 10 doubt their accuracy,
80 per cent of the workers failed to vote
at the last general election in November,
1912.
Because such a large number of work
ers in Toledo failed to vote in the last gen
eral election, and in the light of what their
failure has meant to them in the way of a
hostile congress and state legislature, il
must be apparent that the workers have
learned another costly lesson and now will
wish to correct il.
To this end, the Board of Elections has
consented to remain open until 9 o'clock
each Monday night, in order TO give those
who failed to vote in the last election an
opportunity to register and regain their
right to cast their ballot in the next eIec
ton.
Union leaders in Toledo are hopeful
that the number of workers who will req.
lister will be sufficient to warrant the
Board of Elections remaining open, and
urge all those who for some reason or
other failed to vote last fall, to register
at their earliest possible convenience and
prepare to regain that which was lost be-
cause of the indifference of the workers.