Evening star., 1942-01-18
Expanded Army Likely
To Require Most Of
Finest Wool Stocks
Plenty Of Cloth Believed
On Hand Now; Makers
Overstocked in Summer
By THOMAS r. HENRY.

BY THOMAS r. HENRY.
America Is turning out the best
clad Army and Navy Of ell time.
Today's snappily dressed soldiers
stand in marked contract to the men
of the First World War, with their
ill-fitting uniforms which some
times were of shoddy.
Into these uniforms is going the
finest, most expensive wool. There
is an allowance of % yards a year
per man for clothes and blankets.
This is close to IS pounds. 1t Is
much finer wool, for the most part,
than ever has been obtainable IN
medium-priced suits. The uniforms
will keep the men warm, they will
wear like iron, and they will hold
their shape.
But obviously such q drain on the
Nations wool resources is bound to
have an effect on civilian clothing
supplies. Just how soon this be-
gins to be felt depends on several
factors which either are unpredlct-
able or are defense secrets.
Prom present statistics authorities
here believe that an Army of 3.000,-
600 can be clothed and blanketed
with no shortage of wool for civil
ian use becoming apparent until
late this year. With an army of
1000 900, however. there will be
rather acute shortage in q few
months.
Plenty Of Wool Available Now.
In 1941 the Nation used approx
mately 1000 900, 900 pounds Of wool
for all purposes. This was consid-
erably above the normal usage and
may have allowed for considerable
stock-piling. About 475,000,0Oo
pounds were from American sheep.
Another 350,00O,0 900 pounds came
from Argentina and Uruguay, now
the countrys greatest source OF for
eign supply. The rest was from Aus
tralia. New Zealand and South
Africa.
It is believed that there Is now
enough wool in the country to keep
all available looms busy until the
next American clip and the next
heavy importation from South
America.
From last reports. manufacturers
overstocked last summer. The un-
seasonably late fall last year re-
suited in suits, overcoats and under
wear piling up in warehouses and
in the hands of retailers. This fact
now delays the pinch in the cloth
ing situation.
If the war lasts, however. the
shortage is bound to be felt-es-
pecially in such materials as worS-
teds which are made entirely OF
new wool. There will be much
greater use of reprocessed wool
mixed with cotton and rayon. The
shift to suci- fabrics already Is be-
ing reported.
Army Standards High.
The services are not stinting their
men Army clothing. it is explained
at the Quartermaster Department,
is the result of long scientific studies
of the precise weights and qualities
best suited to specific purposes.
These standards are met. regard
less of the price of materials. The
fact that all articles are cut to a
precise pattern greatly reduces the
cost of manufacture.
In the civilian trade the quality
of wool must be varied SO as to
provide retailers with garments Of
various prices Only the most costly
wool suits probably would be equal
to uniform in quality.
One of the first acts of the British
government after the outbreak of
war in 1889 was to take over the
Empires entire wool output, exclu-
sive of that produced in South
Africa. This was added about a
year later. From time to time large
supplies of the finer Australian
woods have been released for export
to allied and neutral countries.
South America Becomes a Source.
The United States turned to Ar
gentina and Uruguay. Previously
more than half Americas wool i'm
ports have come from Australia
and about a third from South
America. Now more than half
comes from the pampas Last year
British purchasing commission
arranged for large purchases of
Argentine and Uruguayan wools.
At about the same time an ar
rangement was concluded whereby
nyif foiy &c IN ~
United States 250000,000 pounds Of
Empire probably predominantly
Australian-wool as a strategic re-
serve.
From this reserve the United
States can purchase any quantities
needed should wool shortage
emergency arise-such Withdrawals
to be replaced as soon as possible
by further supplies of Empire wools.
The reserve will consist almost en-
tirely of high-grade material, suit
able for clothing.
A year ago the War Department.
acting on the recommendation OF
the National Defense Advisory Com
mission, authorized the use of for
eign wools-chief1y South Ameri-
can-in goods purchased for mill
tary use.
Once Used Only Domestic WOols.
Hitherto it had been legally re-
quired that only native wool be
used in filling military contracts.
The defense commission had be-
come alarmed over the dwindling
supplies and rising prices of do
mestic material, due to Government
purchases of uniforms and blankets.
Importations of woolen cloth In
the past have accounted for only
about 2 per cent of the countrys
requirements. All the rest has been
woven in the United States and up
to the outbreak of the war the in
dustry was none too prosperous. In
1887, for example, there were ap-
proximately 500 factories engaged
in this business and they produced
each year about 0,000, 900 pounds
of woolens and worsteds valued at
$40O ,000, 900 to $450, ,000, 900. At that
about half the looms were idle most
of the time.
There is no question, Tariff Com
&c ba1;o,,o hut that tho