Evening star., 1942-11-12

epicslre, this trend is not good news.
They have had, almost entirely to
themselves, such delicacies as calves
brains, lamb shanks, hearts, kidneys
and sweetbreads. Pigs feet, too,
might come into this category, but
the delicatessen impresarios and
the corner taverns have popularized
them. Tripe comes into this same
group, but tripe is now on its way
to popularity. Oxtails have long
had such an excellent following that
theE. are, often as scarce as AA
quality Of strip sirloin, but pigs
tailS--weI, there is something, espe-
cialIy cooked in sauerkraut.
It. seems, now that the men in
Government who are going to do
thee rationing have tossed all of
these delicacies into the common
pot. They will not count as part of
theSrationed meats. Well, that is
news indeed. I, for one, am going
to have at least one generous and
wholesome and delicious meal per
week from meat products which
don't count, but are tremendously
good eating.
Here is one lovely dish, which
can be had without using rationed
meat. 1t is a Swiss dish called
'Leberli"-very fine, indeed.
Here Is how you make it: For
four to six generous servings, select
q pound Of liver and a pound of kid
neys and cut them into strips, about
three -eighths to half an inch square
and an inch to an inch and a half
long. These strips are rolled in
flour and then cooked in butter or
olive oil in which an onion has been
fried, and then removed. When the
liver and kidney strips are nicely
Drowned, cover with broth "a bouil-
Ion cube or two dissolved in hot
water will serve) and let the mixture
cook gently. As 1t starts to cook, add
cupful Of finely minced celery,
onion and carrot and let this mix
ture cook away to just about
nothing. It gives the final gravy a
grand lift. Along about now, add
couple of spoonfuls of good dry red
wine and one Of vinegar or lemon
juice. AS the meat becomes tender,
the vegetables cook to pieces and
mix with the sauce, which cooks
down and probably becomes as
thick as you want it. This is not a
soupy dish. If you simply must,
you may thicken with a little butter
and flour. The. finished sauce is
decidedly sourish. You may want
to add bit more lemon juice to
suit your taste.
With this dish of Leberi, I shall
cook bowl of "Spaetzli," the cute
little native dumping of Switzer-
land. And here is how this is done:
Take a cup Of flour and a third
Of a cup Of milk. the whole of one
egg and the yolk of another and
a little salt, plus a smitch of
ground nutmeg. Mix all this into a
dumping dough. It should be in
handy little bowl, which we take
In our left hand, an ordinary silver
knife in the other and place our
selves right over a kettle full of
boiling salted water. Then, with
the dumping mixture projected
toward the side OF the bowl, one
flicks off small bits Of dough with
the knife and drops them into the
water. These little dumplings cook
for about five minutes. They are
tender, but not light and porous.
Drain them of and place in a serv-
ing dish. pouring over them a cou-
pie of tablespoons OF melted and
Drowned butter.
For quick, luncheonlike dish,
like clrried kidneys on toast. All
one dies is this: First prepare,
wash and split one veal kidney per
person. Then cream enough butter
with ample curry powder to serve
instead of ordinary butter. While
the kidneys are being grilled or
sauted, make fresh toast, spread
literally with curry butter and place
one kidney on each slice.
Another time, probably for break
fast, I'll lay in supply of calves
or pigs brains-one is as good as