Evening star., 1942-04-19

killing weeds. From their efforts
we are beginning TO get new and
effective spray materials for the
control of some Of the lawn pests.
There are chemicals now on the
market for the killing Of crabgrass
that do not iniure the bluegrass.
Another claims TO kill the crabgrass,
dandelions, plantain and buckhorn.
Speaking of crabgrass control. the
sgronomists state that vell-pre-
pared soil is more important in its
control. That vigorous stand OF
bluegrass will smother out the crab
crass--.that is If IL is not cut too
short. They suggest setting the lawn
mower TO cut the bluegrass at
height OF 2 inches. The fertilizer
people insist that by feeding our
grass regularly It will be thick
enough To overcome the crabgrass.
No doubt the home gardener should
employ a combination--good soil
preparation. regular feeding and
proper cutting, And. this would in
dicate that there is no necessity OF
amending many back-breaking hours
pulling up crabgrass seedlings that
appear In such great numbers IN
May and June.
Dandelions are not so easily con-
trolled although some OF the chem
icals are effective. Most OF the gar
deners will still depend vpon the
family butcher knife and bag OF
salt, Remove the top and put
few grains of salt on the exposed
tap root. An oil can filled with kero-
sene, iron sulphate. sodium chlorate,
etc, may be used in place OF the
salt.
The plantains Cbroad-leaved and
narrow-leaved buckhorn) have n
brous root systems that are not SO
easily removed with the mechanical
weed pullers. The chemical weed
killers are fairly effective, otherwise
we can best depend upon a stout
knife.
Garlic wild onion seemingly Is
immune to chemicals and can be
removed best by digging. Even then
there are usually a number Of small
bulblets left behind which will ap-
pear as plants next spring.
Chickweed, a winter annual, is
rather attractive in appearance In
the winter when all else is drab.
However, IL produces the biggest
crops of seed and will soon smother
grass and flowers. Sprinkle it with
CRYSTALS OF ammonium sulphate or
with a solution. pounds to 3 gal
Ions of water; or with iron sulphate,
2 pounds in gallon of water. Avoid
getting the solution OF iron sulphate
on clothes or concrete as 1t stains
badly.
In general. weeds cannot be eradi-
Gated permanently. There are so
many seeds in the soil that will ger
inmate sooner or later that 1t takes
several years Of painstaking eradi-
cation to control them, Then, too,
birds and animals carry some kinds
of seed, while the wind spreads them
far and wide. Thus complete per-
manent eradication is extremely
difficult.
Nevertheless weeds can and are
being controlled Many yards and
gardens are examples of what can
be and is being done. 1t is up to the
individual gardener to plan his or
her control program in the light of
what they want and can do. Some
will prefer to use the newer methods
modern chemicals and tools. 9th
ers, will follow the methods with
which they are most familiar. Still
others will just hope.
Whatever plan of control you fol-
low 1t is imperative that the work
be started early while the plants are
still small and most easily killed.
1t Is easy to drag a rake between
the rows to break the soils crust
when the weeds are not visible.
When the weeds and grass are well
rooted. however. 1t is much harder.
The number of weeds killed at either
stage is probably about the same.
Cultivation that begins early in
the season and is kept up with reg
ularity is a most effective weed
control program.
II is most practical for flower beds
and vegetable gardens. The stirring
OF the soil need not be deep TO be
effective. In fact. deep tillage de-
stroys the surface feeding roots Of
many shallow-rooted flowers and
vegetables.
Mulches are often recommended
for weed control, While they cannot