davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1942-02-14

Ensembles

II 1t hadn't been for those cot
ton stockings. the recent fashion
show OF clothes made from nom
essential materials would have
been a huge success. Seems that
the American designers set about
to prove that Milady can be we'll
dressed, even II the Government
takes away her silk. leather and
metals, and all went well until
the cotton stockings appeared.
Twas then that most of those
present at the show rebelled.
They just didn't like them. III
we can't get silk, we'll take rayon"
seemed to be the theme song OF
fashion writer's. buyers and de-
signers at the New York event.
Other non-priority ensembles
were a huge success, however. A
smart rayon crepe dress was Zip
PEERLESS and cotton bows took the
place OF metal buttons. The hat
was rayon and velvet with eyelet
embroidery, the stockings un-
dyed nylon and the sandals Of
wartime" fabric. A black rayon
bag, white pique and lace cotton
gloves and spun glass jewelry
completed the picture. Evening
gowns were Of cotton lace with
turquoise mesh stockings, worn
with white linen slippers and a
pearl and turquoise necklace.
Dyes, which rank high on the
priority list, were proved dispen-
sable in an undyed rayon shan
tung suit. undyed Isle stockings
and an undyed wool suit. String
gloves and string hats also indi-
Gated the possibilities for fash
Ion n-wise and patriotic ladies.
n. Y.
Evening star., 1942-02-14

Wear them with shirtwaist-type
b|ouses and tailored hats for
shopping; feel happy In them
with costume jewelry, flower
trimmed hats and, dressy pumps
for afternoon wear. Look for
them in gabardin@ twill, covert
and "crepy" materials and, most
of all, demand them in color.
Color deserves ., story all its
own this spring, but briefly and
emphatically we'll say that 1t
never has been more important.
Pastels range from powder-blue,
the leading color throughout the
country, to delicate orchid,
thought by some fashionists to be
. dark horse" and likely to
prove extremely popuIsr. There
are pistachio tones, aauAs, corals.
and, Of course, beige and gray
and navy. Black7 No. Maybe
It's the war, maybe rs because
black can't hold q candle to these
bright shades. but whatever tho
reason there's little or none Of it
around. Do bold things with
color. too, wearing q powder blue
suit with bright yellow blouse; .
Evening star., 1942-02-14
Chart Your Furniture Moves
Preliminary Papervork Sayes Extra Labor

If you are husky enough, you
can move the grand piano and
the living room sofa around until
they finally fall into the spots
designed for them, but If you are
smart you will substitute brains
for Drawn and work the whole
thing out first on paper. Floor
plans are not half as difficult as
they seem and, like an airplane
view, they show up many diff
erent arrangements that might
not be thought of ION the level"
Place a large piece of paper on
the dining table or the floor and
draft on this the size of your
room, according to scale. This
need not be as accurate as an
architects drawing. but close
enough 50 that you won't be more
than 6 inches of. Place the door
and window openings accurately
on the plan, as we'll as all other
Evening star., 1942-02-14

When the phone rang in the
once the other day, we uttered
. hurried little prayer that the
voice on the other end would be
neither . press agent nor the
man about our income tax. And,
as 1t turned out, We were lucky.
The deposition OF the nickel was
that rare and precious thing
known A. . reader And, what is
more, she was . reader with .
problem.
It seems that the lady was
. housewife who wanted to plan
. spring wardrobe, but was un-
decided ~ to what sort Of out
At would carry her through
everything from shopping trips
to cocktail parties. you give
plenty Of attention to business
girls" she said, with commend
able lack Of bitterness, but how
about us poor housewives? What
shall We wear for spring."
Well, We said first Of all that
the new suits were the answer
to her prayer and everybody
else's. There still are tailored
one-buttpn types in the stores
for those who feel happier in
them. but the darlings Of the
moment, and, We suspect, for
some moments to come, are
those suits with special dress
maker details. They're suits in
name only. True, they do con-
sist OF the traditional skirt and
jacket-but what q jacket! 1t
may have interesting pleats at
the shoulder line and it may tie
at the front. Perhaps 1T has
metal buttons with jeweled CEN
ters and It's certain to have de-
failing that bellies its low price
tag. It looks more like a dress
than a suit and is perfectly
happy with either tailored ac-
cessories or frilly ones. To tell
you the truth, reluctant as we.
are to admit it. we didn't think
much OF these dress-hke suits
when We saw them first. but now
we're convinced that they are
the coming mode for spring.
Evening star., 1942-02-14

tip the scales at the same num-
Der Of pounds. But 1t does mean
that they make, In your minds
eve. nice balance at one end
of the room. Again this appar-
ent weight at one end will de-
mand corresponding balance at
the other end of the room.
Chairs should not be too light
and pictures on the wall should
be larger than average to balance
the piano and the desk.
When this is all worked out on
paper, and balances nicely, criti-
cize it for its convenience. Some
times rooms are far from archi-
tectural perfection, and access to
other rooms is possible only by
walking in front OF or around an
important conversation group"
Rearrangement may solve these
problems, as, OF course, no room
that is inconvenient can be per-
feet.
Very often an ugly shell OF
room may achieve perfection
merely by the esthetics OF cor
rect arrangement. But it must
also make sense: it must be 4
room to live In comfortably. So,
whip up a floor plan Of your
domicile. have fun on paper NOV
ing things around. and, after that,
one shift will take care Of the
whole room for you.
Evening star., 1942-02-14
By Helen Voef

pistachio suit with cherry bag
and gloves. Don't be afraid of it
Just because it's different and
don't think, as did that nice lady
on the telephone, that you can't
wear color because you're IS and
q housewife!
II your figure permits, and
most Of them do, invest in a top
coat this year. Therein lies an
other important fashion story.
because the vogue for topcoats
never has been stronger. Here
again you'll find color, ranging
from soft pastels to vibrant red,
which, by the way, promises to be
. leader in both coats and suits
for spring. Shetlands are very
important in the topcoat fabric
picture and in silhouette there
are softer shoulders and both
single and double breasted styles.
Twills, tweeds and plaids all are
represented, too, 80 there's plenty
Of variety.
No matter what type of topcoat
you choose, however, one thing is
important: 1t must be worn
thrown casually over the shoul-
Evening star., 1942-02-14
Check Up on Qualifications
Many Individuals Are Basicaly Unsuted to Marriage

illusion to him. BY no possible
chance would he get wife who
has either the desire or ability
to cater to his every whim, or
who possesses Mama's tech
nique as a spoiler.
The man who is married to his
business commits bigamy when
he takes on a flesh and blood
wife and is punished for his crime
by spending the balance OF his
life trying to appease a green
eyed woman who Is as jealous OF
his "old office" as she is of his
blonde stenographer. For no
wife likes to run second to a law
book or a green grocery and know
that the first place in her hus-
bands heart is occupied by
canned goods, and that nothing
really gives him thrill but the
rise and fall of the stock market.
An egotist should never marry.
because nothing so debates ones
vanity as matrimony. No man
has any idea Of what a poor,
weak, miserable creature he Is
until his wife begins to criticise
his faults. No matter how much
a man may strut abroad, he
walks humbly on his own hearth
stone.
Nor is there any place in mar
riage in which the head OF the
house can indulge himself In self
ishness, for even If his wife is will
ing to sacrifice herself for him
the children are not, and by the
time he has paid for having their
adenoids out. and tffeir sport cars.
and a college education, and got
ten them out Of scrapes, and lis
tened to them tell him how old
fashioned all of his ideas are, he
is so humble he is ready to call
q worm Of the dust Mister when
he meets him in the road.
SO, these things being true, 1t
behooves every man to study his
own qualifications for marriage
before he asks . girl the fatal
question.
Evening star., 1942-02-14
Earrings Retain Popularity
Important Items Of Adornment for Centuries
mt for Centuries

general return to favor. Italy.
which led in learning through
her scholars, also furnished Eu-
rope with models for ear jewels.
Jewels and enameling on gold
were the popular materials, and
we find the pendant type appear
ing in many styles. along with
delicate openwork designs.
Throughout the l600s, earrings
we're large and important
These were the days when Eng
land made merry and court beau
ties Wed with each other in gor-
geous dress. Some OF the earrings
worn in that era, especially those
OF gem work design. have been
divided and used separately to
make neck pendants.
The next century brought
Marie Antoinette to the stage OF
world history. She is one Of the
famous ladies of all time who
wore elaborate earrings. She had
one pair made of large stones
in perpendicular lines. ending
with the popular large drop
shaped gem.
The late l80Os form another
period in which earrings went
temporarily out of favor From
1885 to 1905 they were not much
worn. especially in high society.
They made a comeback early in
this present century, and 1t Is
from this time that the custom Of
piercing the ear lobes dates its
discontinuance.
Earrings are undeniably among
the most important items of per-
sonal adornment today. Leaders
in society, stars of stage and
screen, career women and girls
who hold routine jobs wear these
trinkets on all and sundry occa-
sions. AS in Seneca's time, they
may still be worth a patrimony,"
but the range Of design and cost
is as wide as their popularity.
They finish the well-dressed
woman's ensemble with a final
touch Of chic, and their claim to
do so goes back to the beginning
OF time.
(This is the third and final
fnstallment in Miss RentreiDs
series on the history OF edr1in0s.J
Evening star., 1942-02-14

Judging from the innumerable
communications on the subject
that I receive, when the average
man and woman contemplate
matrimony they do not take into
consideration their own qualif1ca-
tions for the holy estate, but are
concerned only with those of the
party of the other part. They do
not ask: Will I make good hus-
band or wife? But only: Will
Mary or John suit me and make
me happy? They entirely ignore
what is the most important fac
tor in making marriage a success,
and that Is the individuals fitness
for it, for there are many men
and women who should never
marry simply because marriage is
not their vocation. You have to
have a talent for matrimony as
for anything else to make a go OF
1t and they would be dissatisfied
and unhappy and make their
wives and husbands miserable,
even though they were wed to
pin -feathered angels. No philan-
derer, for instance. should ever
marry, because he was born with
an irresistible tendency that he
cannot control to f1irt with every
pretty woman he sees. He will
always be faithful to the feminine
sex as a whole as long as it Is
under 80, but no one woman can
hold him. for he will always love,
not wisely, but too many.
No man who has a wandering
foot should marry. There are
men who can never be house
broken. They will always hear
the call of the wild and answer it.
No matter how the wife of such
one pets him or feeds him, or how
comfortable she makes him, she
can never turn him into a fire.
side companion.
No tightwad should ever marry.
for his pocketbook will always be
closer to his heart than his fam
fly. He will always figure the cost
Of marriage In dollars and cents
Evening star., 1942-02-14

A taste for magnificence in ear
rings was inherited by the Ro-
mans from their forerunners, the
Etruscans. In fact, e1trava-
gance In ear jewels came in for
censure by the great Roman
writer's. According to PlinX. there
WAS no part OF costume on which
greater expense was layiShed,
and Seneca makes mentior OF a
pair worth patrimony." They
were composed. he says. OF four
pearls above and below a central
precious stone. Ovid puts in a
word against earrings, too. why
this craze to carry your income
Evening star., 1942-02-14
Artificial
Beautyk Is
Not Chic
By Patricia Lindsay

It is the wholesome beauty
which rates high now that we are
facing realities. Genuineness is
creeping back to its rightful
place!
But do not for a moment think
this new trend of beauty means
that you are to go about looking
dull, prim or otherwise unlovely,
Just because nature made you in
that mold, maybe!
We shall continue to use all the
little artifices we know, but we
shall use them more cleverly. So
cleverly. in fact. that no one will
be able to detect how long it took
us to look so naturally pretty!
The new effect begins with our
hair. n will be dressed more
simply, probably in q brief, easily
caned-for coiffure. Farewell to
the complex, elaborate hair-dos
which delight us in less trying
days. But our hair will shine
from the care we give it, and its
"casualness" will be set at the
hairdressers just as before.
Then our makeup. Better
health through better nutrition
and exercise and something to
work for, will bring a new, vital
beauty to our skin. Our faces
will be less flirting and more un-
masked. Our skin will receive
the maximum of care in the
minimum OF time, and we shall
select a gossamer light powder Of
the exact shade of our skin tone.
We will apply it with a down puff
40 it will not look matted
Our cheeks. we hope will have
enough honest color. but II they
are pale we shall be ever so care
full to blend on a well-chosen
rouge so evenly the most dlScern-
ing friend will not suspect it did
not grow there! Our lips shall be
vivid-smooth and vivid-for we
want color in our lives. But our
lip outline will be the one nature
gave us-we will cease trying to
draw new faces (talat Is unless we
want to be devilish for a gay eve
ming. Then 1t is permissible).
Our nails will be shorter-yes,
definitely 50, for they must be
more serviceable. They can be
painted as gaily as you desire as
long As they and your hands are
sxdtlisitely roomed..
Evening star., 1942-02-14

and decide 1t isn't worth the price.
He will always feel that his wife
gypped him by not growing her
own fine feathers instead of buy
ing them, and that If she was any
account at all, she would be able
to conjure good meals out Of the
air instead Of running up bills
with the grocer and the butcher.
No man who was reared
Mama's pet should ever marry,
because marriage is bound to be
a bitter disappointment and dis
Evening star., 1942-11-11

vouoble member Of the famous Chatham line of fine bed
Beautifully looned with luxurious nopped surfoee of
5o9o royon, 259o wool ond 25ee cotton VIII provide ops
17x90 inehesfor secure 'uckne IN" Whts ard eelen
Evening star., 1942-11-11
MAHOGANY VENEERS! 18th CENT
Handsome Gift for the Home!
$99

ExquisiteIy designed with carved motif on
all pieces and "Prince Of Wales" design
on mirror. Glowing mahogany veneers
lon seasoned eunnwood). Authentic | 9th
Century reproduction with fine cabinet
work. Make up your 3-piece suite with
either double or single bed, spacious chest
Of drawers and dresser or vanity (both
with fine plote-eloss mrrors).
-Furniture-Fitth Floor
Evening star., 1942-11-11
Lasting Beauty and Service!
Oriental Copies in 9xI2-Ft. Size

Rare vous for Practically priceless THIS year Be.
pile as hsrous fine silk Repieos Of genuine onentos
- flowessy reproduced that might b deceived The
oefks eoos hehlehed grounds Of ivory. blue ross red
LANSBURoEs-Rsos- -ros,th r,oor
Evening star., 1942-12-20
African Front

For three weeks Montgomery was
quiet. A week ago he struck. Gen. Err
win Rommel had established his Afrika
korps IN Ell Aghiela. That place is as
Tar west as Allied troops had gotten dur
Ing this war, and it was thought Rom
mel there would make stand. Instead
ne Withdrew as soon as Montgomery
struck. He took away with him not only
his soldiers but also his reputation. No
longer is he the desert fox" Erwin the
1nvincible," the menace to the Suez or
the scourge Of Egypt. He is just fugi-
tive from military justice, unable to
make the fight. How much of this
change Is due to Rommel's own short
Evening star., 1942-12-20

Darlan that arrangements are complete
for the Allies to use the French warships
that have been tied up in Alexandria,
Egypt. These ships will augment the
Allied strength on the Mediterranean,
where the question of seapower as we'll
as airpower will become acute as soon
as Africa belongs to the United Nations.
Admiral Darlan publicly renounced any
postwar political ambitions, in an effort
to allay the criticism that exists in
Washington. London and Moscow of the
collaboration with a man who only
few weeks ago was collaborating in
France with the Germans. Secretary OF
State Hull urged that all Frenchmen
to unite in helping put across the
African campaign The Fighting French
Evening star., 1942-12-20

modifying the Wage and Hour Act; In
the growing application of the equal
pay for equal work" principle in behalf
OF women in industry. They have estab-
lished the principle of labor enhancement
production committees. although in prac-
tice the surface has hardly been
scratched.
Carl p. schedler director of opera
tions for the WLB, wrote an article re-
Gently for University of North Caro-
lima Law School symposium showing
there were 13 Government agencies, bu-
reaus or committees dealing with va
rious aspects of labor. All but four of
them have grown up in the atmosphere
OF wartime emergency Labor has mem
bership or advisory positions in some of
them and does business with all of them.
On the other hand, organized labor
has been frustrated in many of its OBJ
jectives, such as appointment of one of
its leaders as Secretary of Labor or boss
OF manpower. Labor's plans for con-
vertlng industry to war production did
not get to first base. Compensation de-
mands of the workers who lost time dur
ing conversion were rejected The bit
jobs handed out to labor in the WPB
setup have irritated union Chiefs
Full Union Shop Refused.
The Government has refused, too, to
impose the full union shop There have
been instances in which the WLB or
dered the union shop retained, over the
protest of management, but it has re-
fused to introduce it, even when the
union was able to show it had almost
complete unionization of plant The
boards union maintenance formula,
however, has probably saved many
unions from disintegration and in many
cases helped to build them.
So, depending on the viewpoint, it may
be concluded that labor has too much in
fluence in Government-or too little.
Labor holds the latter view 1t is under
severe criticism for being gras9ing, and
knows it, but takes the view that it Is
gras?ing only for responsibility. La1o
leaders point to Eng and, whcrc conserv-
atives regarded it as something OF an
achievement to have gotten la5or into a
position of co-i22-r onsibility in the war.
1T any rate, these are some OF the war
time functions of labor ur.on- Many
of the normal functions still are opera
tive, like grievance machinery and the
social benefits. Unions have exploited
them all with apparent success among
the rank-and file workers.
Membership Gains.
Union membership is way up. AFL
unions have gained an aggregate of more
than a million in the last year, more
thansdoubled its membership since 1888.
1t is now well over five and a half mil
lion. The CIO says it has about $780,
600 members.
Unions cash income has risen. and
costly Grains like strike and unemploy-
ment benefits have been virtually elm
mated.
Whct is bcing done with the money?
a seed 6cal of it is gc.-l- mo c.gan'z-
ing. The price of that lem is much
higher because unions are competing
with one another for the same prospec-
tive members. The CIO treasury is said
to be as poor as the proverbial church
mouse. A dozen or so Of the afiliated
unions are pretty well fixed, like the
steelworkers and auto workers They
pay relatively high per capita tax into
the CIo. but most Of this goes right out
Evening star., 1942-12-20
Continued From Page BID

under the protection Of the Japanese
Emperor when China's Manchuria be-
came Japan's Manchukuo in 1881. With
these Mohammedan Manchukuans and
the few hundred Moslems in Japan
proper as the nucleus for the Nipponese
bid for power in the Moslem world,
Japan encouraged the settlement in
Harbin Of many Tartars and Russians
of the Mohanmedan faith.
A prosperous Nipponese coony of 20
900, established in Davao in Southern
Philippines long before this war, kept
the Japanese in constant close contact
with the neighboring Moros in Mindanao
and the Sulu Archipelago. 1t also
brought Japanese much nearer to the
heavily populated Moluccas, Celebes,
Borneo, Java. Sumatra and Malaga,
grab-bag. The japanese traded and
made friends with all Mohammedans in
these places.
Mosque Forms Tie.
BY 1888, when it ostentatiously opened
in Kobe a mosque for its few Moham-
medans, Japan was doing well in the
Moslem world Former President NJ
Abdul Ariz of the All-India Moslem
League attended the Kobe celebration
Floridly he compared the Japanese-built
mosque with the one erected by Mo-
hammed himself in Medina, Arabia, and
predicted Indian and japanese co-opera-
ton in bringing Mohammedan light to
benighted world.
In 1888 the japanese Army's Special
Services founded the United China Mo-
hammedan Association, which was
fifth-column organization for building
up pro-Japanese sentiment among the
some Is 100000 Moslems in Northwestern
China. This body must not be confused
with the powerful Chinese National Mos
lem League, which recently forwarded a
message to President Ali Jinnah of the
All-1ndia Moslem League, urging Indian
Mohammedans to cooperate with the
Hindus in settling India's problems and
pointing out that Chinese Mohammedans
aae cooperating with other religious
groups in the war against Japan.
Stirring up Mohammedans in Neither
lane India against their Dutch rulers
and Moslems in Malaga against the
British was Japanese pre-war speciality
japanese fifth-column success in those
territories has been outstanding. One
OF the most prominent Of the native tools
Of the Japanese in Netherland India was
Hadji A. Salim.
Doubtless Japanese propaganda among
the Far Eastern Moslems has been in
tensified since the Nipponese conquests
OF Malaga, the East Indies, Celebes and
Borneo. The Malayan Peninsula, which
even under the British was ruled mainly
by native sultans. has 100000 Moslems.
There are also 800,0 900 Indians here i'm
ported by the British for plantation
work. These Indians, many of whom are
Mohsmmedans, are presumably being
trained by the japanese for the conquest
of India, home of the worlds largest
single group Of Mohammedans.
Relations Malntained.
Out of the 67,000,0o0 population of the
East Indies there are $4,000, 900 Moham-
medans and less than 100000 nominal
Christians. Among the Moslems here
are 10000 Arabians, who probably can
be trained for work to create more pro-
Japanese sentiment in the Near East.
Although King Ibn saud of Saudi
Arabia is anti Axis and has broken re-
lations with Germany and Italy. he has