Evening star., 1942-04-12
Special Care
Is Required
By Peonies
Absence of Bloom
Is Influenced by
Many Factors
By J. Sfealey Eims

Along about this time Of the year
those Of us who are interested in
the peony as an ornamental are
out on tour Of inspection. If we
have added new varieties the past
fall, we search out the little reddish
leaves whose appearance in the
spring signifies the plant has wealth.
cred the winter dormant season.
"A decade or so ago the nurseries
used as selling point for their
product that the peony was one of
those plants with which the pur-
chaser would have no trouble. Just
set out the plants, add a little
fertilizer now and then, and they
would take care of themselves
forever, giving years Of beautiful
bloom. Far be it from me to take
such Joy away from the novice, but
it is the worst kind of bunk!
They are susceptible to disease, both
roots and foliage and, in the case
of several varieties, may be termed
"in and cutters"
I receive many inquiries concern
ing this plant. Foremost among
them pertain to reasons why the
plants do not produce blooms, or If
they do, why are the blooms of a
nondescript character? This ten
dency to unproductiveness springs
from several causes, all of which,
with proper care and a little trouble.
may be remedied.
First Of all, we must bear in mind
that the peony springs from long
line of ancestors whose native
hearth was the cold mountains and
plains of Northern China and
Siberia. This would seem to indi-
cate that they need a long dormant
period to be at their best when
their blooming season arrives. Many
varieties on the market thrive in
the colder parts of the United
States and Canada, but when
planted this far south do not re-
spond and therefore, while produc-
ing large flower buds, do not open
we'll.
Another reason for lack of bloom,
and probably the most common, is
that the roots are planted too deep.
Deep planting will, in few years,
cause the eye, or stem bud, to form
high above the crown on the past
years old stem. This greatly inter-
feres with the proper routine Of
sending up strength to the bloom.
| Properly planted, the eyes form on
the crown. which assures a full
supply of life blood" to the flower.
I have found that anchoring the
root firmly in the hole in which
you plant it and covering the eyes
with only about an inch of soil
will give good results.
Some of you will see your plants
come to maturity this spring and
then seemingly overnight will dis
cover that the foliage has become
blotched with dirty looking brownish
spots. This will affect the leaves
and the stem, and the flower bud, II
attacked. will dry up and. of course,
produce no bloom. This is a fungus
disease called botrytis. II one plant
in your garden has become affected
the disease can be spread easily
to others. 1t can be controlled by
the application of copper lime dust
early in the season and at timely
intervals.
Now just in case you wish to worry
a little more about the troubles
that may beset the peony, you should
| know about Mr.. Caconema Radici-
cola. He is like the little man who
wasn't there" so tiny that he only
may be discerned through a strong
microscope. Yet this garden nema-
tode has the strength of Hercules,
living in regal splendor inside the
young peony roots and sending his
progeny out TO hunt for similar
habitatS.
This parasitic eelworm makes his
presence known by tiny knotlike
protusions on the roots and the
young stringy rootlets. AS between
600 and TOO different plants harbor
this pest. you will see that control
becomes difficult. Perhaps the most
effective is immersion in water
heated to 113 degrees F. (some
authorities say 120 degrees) for 80
minutes. This is quite a bit Of
trouble, requiring an accurate ther-
mometer and some sort Of heat
control for the period. I have tried
| this method several times, but cam
not say I have been very successful.
The worst damage done was burn
! ing, which, of course. was not dis
covered until the following spring.
Those roots which went through
the ordeal are fine, healthy plants.
Heavily infested plants throw up
weak, spindly stems and seldom
produce even a bud. A limited
control may be obtained by severe
cutting away of the roots when
transplanting.
At this time of the year 1t is
well to help along the feeding Of
the peony by the addition Of some
of the commercial fertilizers. T
have for a number of years been
using a mixture in the proportion
parts nitrogen, II parts super
phosphate and 6 parts potash. A
! good average ration would be a.
12-. 1t should be spread around
the plant and worked in, or If you
can use a spreader, applied between
the rows. After the blooming season
and late in the fall a dressing OF
bone meal should prove beneficial.