The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1942-10-15

air and moisture to make the nu,
trients In the soil available a
plant foods
II this procedure In followed
say the o . experts. fine results
may Be obtained in the average
home garden without extra fertili.
nation after the first spring appli.
cation when the shoots are two
to four inches long. Reports from
stations all over the country indi-
cate improved. luxuriant growth
as the result Of this modern tech
nique.
The fall reason is also a good
time TO transplant roses. too. ae-
eording to Eugene s. Boerner.
expert and hybridist. Prepare"
he says. THE new locations before
digging the old plants and move
them with the minimum exposure
to air. Hybrid teas and floribun-
das may be cut back 10 Is inches
and the weaker wood removed.
Climbers and pillars should be
moved nor cautiously. AL the
roots should be conserved and i'm
msdiately after transplanting the
tops should be stretched on the
ground and covered with a thin
layer of soil. This Will insure flow
ers on these plants the following
spring"
Here are suggestions for u C
cessful fall planting OF roses:
For small paintings, ioos-
en- the soil for At least two
spade depths and In . wide
enough area 10 allow gener-
Gus spreading of the roots.
Throw n spade depth 10 the
side of the hole, then cover
the bottom of the hole with
two inches Of broken-up peat
moss, and II available. two
inches of manure. Dig this In
thoroughly. II no manure II
available work In three inches
of peat moss. and N 10 In
handy a sprinkiing Of fertilizer
or bone meal.
Then add two inches of peat
moss to the soil thrown out and
return it to the hole, mixing 1t
thoroughly. Your ground Is now
ready for planting.
IF at all possible. prepare the
ground Immediately after you or
der the plants. Water 1t very
thoroughly to help II settle so
when the plants do arrive there
viii be no time lost in getting
them into the ground.
"When planting, be sure to
lamp the rose plants in well be-
fore watering, then water thor
oughly 80 the ground will settle
well around the roots.
"For large beds, II the bed
n quite large and a show spot
it viii pay TO go down "a
Inches In the preparation.
Place coarse cinders, rubble,
or gravel In the bottom three
or four inches for drainage.
~ - UI.. 500 fa.
Return the soil in two sections.
Put back about half and add two
to three inches of peat moss or
two inches of peat nos and two
inches of well-rotted manure. Mix
this in thoroughly by spading or
forking, and soak 1t well. Then
return the balance of the soil and
again dress 1t with two to three
inches of peat moss and one inch
of w~ell-rotted manure IL IT is avail
able.
Mix this thoroughly and water
the top layer when finished
These beds will, of course, be sew
eral inches higher than the sur
rounding ground. but there VIII
be considerable settling by spring
and a return TO normal level by
summer.
The plants ordered may arrive
any time before the ground aetu-
ally freezes soiidly. Due 10 the
fact that these plants should ripen
thoroughly In the field. It Is not
wise for the nurseries TO dig them
until this ripening process has fin
ished naturally.
Upon receiving the new yarie-
ties, plant them as soon as pos
sible. Trim any broken roots, but
do not take off any more top
wood Place the plants in a
bucket Of water and remoye them
one at a time while planting. Do
not expose the bare roots to the
fall winds.
set the plants % the union
or Joint 10 an inch below the
surface Of the surrounding
soil. In fall beds prepared
with the peat there viii
be settling Of surrounding SOIL
and In the spring these plants
viii have their proper garden
depth Firm each plant thor
oughtly and water we'll
Then hill up Immediately with
from four 70 six inches Of sol.
This applies in all climates II
the winter climate gets very
severe ADDITIONAL soil should be add
I'd to the killing. but the top win
ter covering Of hay, straw or
leaves should not be applied until