Evening star., 1941-11-15

Strange as 1t may seem we otter
in this area during a mild winter
winters there is more bright sun
light on days when the temperature
Is far enough above freezing to
stimulate leaf action. Whenever the
leaves start to function. they give
off neutrality-suspicious., the
scientists call it. When the leaves
give off moisture the roots must
supply it or else the leaves Shrivel,
turn brown, and in extreme cases
fall. Roots are unable to function
when the soil is cold or frozen.
In this area. with frequent mild
weather during the winter, we very
often have injury OF this sort. In
fact, it is so common that we sell
dom grow the English ivy success
fully on the south or west sides Of
our buildings. This is also the rea-
on that we are seldom successful
In growing rhododendrons in sunny,
protected situations. The same ap-
plies to Abelia, oregon hollygrape
CMahonia aquifolium), and many
other evergreens. In less protected
spots they thrive and seem not to
mind our climate.
Drying winds are fully as in
furious as the sun. Perhaps one
might say even more injurious. for
they affect dormant deciduous trees
and shrubs. The drying action Of
these winds takes the sap from the.
bark. especially of those that are
newly planted and not thoroughly
established, until they seem unable
to recover or do so poorly that they
are not worth keeping. In extreme
cases the bark splits and disease
may enter.
Excess moisture is another cause
of winter injury. This is because
the plants are more or less dormant
and standing water or even soggy
conditions are favorable to the de-
velopment OF destructive diseases,
such as crown rot and some of the
molds We are especially subject
to these troubles because Of our
heavy clay soils, which retain mois-
ture.
We normally have plenty Of rain
fall during the winter months.
Proper drainage and ditching will
do much to avoid standing water
in shrub and flower beds. But even
where there are bitches to carry eX-
cess moisture away it is well to
examine the flower beds frequently
to make certain that there are no
depresSionS in which water might
stand. Holes left in digging. or by
decaying stem may hold enough
water to result in the loss of plant
The above are conditions which lead
to winter injury. Now for few
suggested ways in which they may
be prevented 1t is obvious. I think
that we should avoid those practices
which stimulate vegetative growth
In the fall, especially in shrub and
rose beds, Late fall planting of
evergreens should be avoided unless
done by a skilled nurseryman who is
willing to guarantee his work.
Even established evergreens may
suffer unless we see that there is
sufficient moisture in the ground
Overwatering. is of course, injurious
but our foundation plants usually
suffer from lack of moisture rather
than too much. This fall, in par
ticular, We will need to soak the
ground thoroughly and deeply be-
fore freezing weather comes. A deep
mulch, 6-1O inches, of leaves will do
much to retain the moisture and to
keep the soil warm enough so that
the roots can function. Evergreens,
both the narrow and the broadleaved
ones in sunny or exposed situations
will benefit by shade and wind
break Pine boughs from the woods
may be stood around them. Some
gardeners sharpen the butts Of the
pine boughs and drive them into the
ground. on the south and west sides
Of the shrubs to be protected dts
easier to punch the holes with an
iron bar and place the butts in
themD
Stout stakes driven into the
ground to which burlap may be
tackled is another way of providing
shade as well as a windbreak. Or.
one may tack laths to the stakes,
spacing them an inch or so apart.
For large paintings roll of snow
fence. such as is commonly used
along the highways. may be fastened
to stakes or posts set in the ground.
The snow fence is especially good
since it is easily set-up or taken
down and can be rolled up for
storage. If painted with a wood
preservative it will last for years.
These precautions, if used, should
prevent much of the winter injury
to plants and perennials that IS
common in this area Too much
coddling or the use of protection too
early, however, may be more in
furious than none at all.
Wait until the ground is frozen
before applying mulches or build
ing screens.
The winter care of the perennial
border, other than drainage, begins