Evening star., 1941-11-03
(SeDenth OF a Series.)
By RALPH INGERSOLL.

BY RALPH INGERSOLL.
Steele and I went through our
first Russian city so fast We hardly
had time to look out the window.
Our committee of local commissars
had us packed into big Zys car,
which is the Soviet imitation Of a
Buick limousine of about 1885. It
was a beautiful. warm afternoon
under a bright blue sky, and beyond
the long. wide streets we could see
tall, snow-capped peaks. The streets
were dusty and unpaved or paved
with cobblestones.
Alma Alta is the capital of one Of
the most important Asiatic republics
-Kazakstan. 1t seemed to be built
of one and two-sotry buildings,
almost painless and in bad repair.
There were many people on the side
walks. The women had white BAN
dannas on their heads, tied as the
Russians tie them. tight across the
forehead and tight over the top OF
the head. The highways were al
most trafficless. We shot by parks
with trees in them, busy intersec-
ton or two, and suddenly we found
ourselves up in the hills leading to-
ward the snow-capped mountains.
Our Chinese interpreter told us we
were bound for rest home.
A rest home in Russia is not a
place for the i'll, but a vacation
resort. This one had a setting to
dream of, high on hillside, looking
out over the city, its site cut out of
beautiful birch and pine woods. I
have only a blurred memory of
room with two large iron bedsteads
and a gigantic stove that reached
to the ceiling. for things began to
happen very fast.
Find Banquet Spread.
We were asked whether we would
not like to eat. Since the last time
we had eaten was o'clock in the
morning, we did not wait even to
take an offered bath. We thought
we were about to sit down to tea
and bread. A minute later we found
ourselves In large hall with a stage
at one end, in the center Of which
was a banquet table set for IA to Is.
If it wasn't groaning it should have
been, for it was piled with red and
black caviar, all manner Of meats
and breads, great heaping dishes Of
fruits, interspersed with champagne
bottles with silver foil around the
caps. It had floral pieces, much
glass and silver and sparkling
tablecloth. It was something.
Steele and I looked at each other,
our glances saying, These pro-
letariat live WE'LL"
I understand there has been a
good deal in the press lately about
the banquet served to the Joint
Commission in the Kremlin. Steele's
and my opening night in the Soviet
Union cannot compare IN setting.
nor in the Importance Of its host
and guests, but that is all will con-
cede the banquet in the Kremlin.
A Russian banquet has two fea-
tures-toasts and speeches. The
toasts begin almost Immediately and
are introduced with the word gambe.
which is both an invitation and a
challenge to drink. the glass bot
toms up The glass contains straight |
vodka. The champagne that ac-
companies it is to cool you of.
The toasts are very formal. Our
toasts we've not only formal. they
we're also unique. Each was said In
three languages =
Toasts Invite Return.
Smirnoff, head of the welcoming
arose and conversation at
the table stopped. He spoke for
1uite a while in Russian. He then
for the Chinese interpre-
ter to stand, and the latter did what
he could with the speech In Chi
nese. Steele then got up and con-
veyed the gist to me in English.
The gist was invariably as impress
sive as was the center floral piece.
It obviously called for a return en-
yagement. Smirnoff, Steele and the
sat down and I arose to
hank Smirnoff, and to convey to
1im the American peoples appre-
,iation of the courage of the Soviet
Army in fighting the Nazis. This
vas duly translated into Chinese
md then from Chinese into Rus
'ian.
Smirnoff was not the only speaker.
During the banquet he made five
speeches; his nearest competitor
made only three. But every one
poke at least once. The banquet
vent on for a very long time, and
III the diners, including Steele and
ne. enjoyed themselves immensely.
We were served by buxom country
'irls in white skirts and blouses
With white headdresses. They were
hooed this way and that by very
handsome, elderly matron. After an
lour or two the music arrived. The
'uests began to dance with the
Mattresses and things became very
'ay. The music was Russian-not
ocal Kazakstarr or Asiatic-and the
ime seemed to be approximately a
7altz. The mattresses were very shy
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