Evening star., 1941-09-20

| son OF pruning is not so important.
Most of us do it in the spring, but
September will do nearly as we'll.
The work should De done, however,
before the new growth starts Most
of the narrow-leaved evergreens
make their strongest growth in the
spring and if We do the pruning
before this growth starts the effect
of the pruning shears will be COW
cred up in a comparatively short
time. Fall growth is seldom as pro-
nounced, and hence where the prun-
ing has been exceptionally severe it
may remain more or less visible all
winter. On the other hand, fall
pruning has the effect Of reducing
Transportation and this sometimes
helps foundation paintings through
the winter without loss Of foliage
due to dryness.
Some gardeners prune their ever
green's in the manner one clips a
hedge with hedge shears. Outside
OF saving labor this method has little
to commend it. For formal gardens
a smooth clipping helps to carry the
regularity of outline that such gar
dens require. Most yards, however.
do not pretend to be formal and
smooth clipping is to be avoided.
One may do all the pruning that is
desirable and necessary without
achieving symmetrical outline by
using a sharp knife or pruning
shears.
1 usually prune each branch end,
cutting back to fork or sideshoot.
In this way the cuts do not leave
stubs which soon die. and such a
method does not produce a regular
ity of outline. On young evergreens
this method is very satisfactory in
that one can definitely shape the
tree by judicious selection of
branches to shorten.
The yews CTaxus) benefit by this
shortening of branches in that it
produces needing branching. Often
times they develop such long shoots
before branching that they are def
nitely weakened and subject to split
ting. BY checking this growth they
are more attractive in appearance
and are the better able to with
stand heavy SHOWS without injury.
The upright yeWs need still more
pruning than do the spreading type
If they are to make a definitely
columnar tree.
The arborvitaes tThuja) and the
retinospora (Chamaecyparis) make
a very open type of growth unless
pruned rather severely. In fact,
they may be pruned to form a mar
row hedge or wall without injury.
Seemingly the inside foliage dies
as the new growth develops at the
tips of the branches unless they
are pruned regularly.
Similarly the hemlocks CTsuga)
make a broad spreading. though
graceful type of growth. unless the
tips are regularly cut off This may
be carried to considerable eX-
treme without injury. In fact it is
common practice to prune the
hemlock to hedge form.
The jumpers are bit more diff
flcult to prune than the evergreens
mentioned so far. They are spiny
and so twiggy that the work is not
pleasant without heavy gloves.
However, they need this care, espe-
cially the red cedar Juniperious
virginiana) which oftentimes be-
comes painfully shabby in appear
ance through neglect.
The Spruces (Picea) and the pines
PinusD are more difficult to prune
since they gain height and spread
through the terminal buds. The
removal of these produces a cylin-
drical or vase-shaped groWth-most
of the side buds developing to give
this form. However, it may be
necessary to remove the terminal
bud to keep them at the desired
height (at least retard. In such a
case one may select a side bud
and using a stick tie it into position
so it takes the place of the terminal
bud The pruning of terminal shoots
on branches results in denser,
better -branched growth and does
not affect the trees appearance as
does the removal of the leader
trunk) bud.
Many gardeners enjoy the new
growth on pines and spruce that
resembles gay little candles. Severe
pruning greatly increases the num-
Der and size of the candles"
Mugho pines are particularly at
tractive when covered with them.
Regardless of the kind of ever
green we have, the pruning should
be based on definite objectives. By
keeping them in mind we can do
more intelligent job and the re-
suits will be gratifying. These OBJ
jectives may be listed as follows:
ID To invigorate the tree; (2) keep
the tree within certain limits as to
size, width and shape; 90 removal
of dead or diseased or injured
parts; "a facilitate transplanting.
Reduce leaf surface to compensate
for loss of roots in movingD
The feeding of evergreens. like
that of most other trees, should be
carefully done. Overfeeding is
usually more injurious than neglect.
Decayed vegetable matter (humus),
such as compost and well-rotted
COW manure, is best. Commercial
tree food may be used to supplement
satisfactorily If the applications are
kept small. Apply in March and
just preceding the new
growth periods, quarter-pound per
foot of height for small and me-
dunn sized trees, less for tall ones.
Avoid the use of bonemeal. A mulch
is advisable and ordinarily does not
detract from the appearance of the