Evening star., 1941-07-26

ever the tips of the branches come II
roots and soon another plant is form
the ground that take root at the
Joints and when these are separated
many new plants are formed. Eng
Ish ivy, grape vines, and several
other vines and a few shrubs have
this ability.
Gardeners having observed this
habit in nature have developed 1t
until now we have several methods
of lavering and use them commonly
IN the propagation of plants and
shrubs Simple layering" consists
Of fastening a lower branch to the
soil with wire staple, peg, stone,
or Just plain dirt. The tip OF the
shoot is left protudlng from the soil
which covers the point q to 4
inches where the new root system
IS to develop. In most cases roots
will form more readily if the bark
Is cut or injured. AS soon as roots
have formed the cane or branch is
cut and the new plant left to de-
velop until it is strong enough to
be moved-usually a growing season
or even less
Roses. the japanese SNOWFALL,
the oakleaf hydrangea, magnollas,
daphne and many others are propa-
gated by this method,
Continuous layering" is some
what similar to simple layerlng,
except that the entire branch Is
buried and left until roots have
formed and new shoots sent forth
from the nodes or joints. Some
shrubs. however are allowed to de-
velop shoots at the nodes before the
cane is covered. They can be de-
pended upon to grow their own root
systems only after the shoots have
formed. Even with these it is de-
sirable to scar or injure the bar at
the point where it is desired to have
the root system form. Another
deviation commonly employed on
climbing roses is the compound
layering." Here the canes are COW
cred only at intervals where the
bark has been injured or cut and
the stem pegged beneath moist soil.
Another form of layering is known
as mound layering," In this method
the branches are sometimes notched
and then covered with soil. Another
uav is to prune the shrub back
severely before covering with soil.
In either case the soil is left on the
shrub for season before the entire
bush is dug and the rooted stems
cut off.
Successful layering depends upon
selecting healthy mature canes ana
anchoring them deeply enough in
moist soil. Incorporating humus
1peat or sphagnum moss in the soil
at the point of the root develop
ment will facilitate growth, by keep
ing the soil moist and acld-tWo
conditions essential to root growth.
Only plants that are vigorous should
be propagated by this method. Weak
growers will oftentimeS root, but II
lacking the power to collect moisture
and food in sufficient quantities to
support a strong bush they are hard
" worth propagating by layerlng.
Weak growers, that is plants that
cannot produce worthwhile results
on their own roots, are often propa-
gated on borrowed root systems.
Hybrid tea roses are commonly put
on rose species (multif1ora, odorata,
manetti, etc. root systems. Lllacs
are often started on privet roots,
end many others are similarly treat
ed. Sometimes this is done by bud
ding. For others grating is more
satisfactory.
Budding in simple words is the
putting of bud" or eye from the
plant which is to be propagated on
: n already rooted host. This is
ommonly done in the summer when
| ne plants are in active growth.
fter nature has healed the wound
! ne growth above the bud" is re-
1oved and all of the roots strength
lrned to the feeding of the visitor.
Commercially most roses are bud
ed, as are pink dogwood and some
the magnolias. A few of the
lacs are budded. Doubtless the ex-
berimentally inclined home gardener
will find this method useful for
= hther plants.
During the dormant season it is
possible to take a small twig (scion)
from a bush and graft" it onto
root or branch of another bush.
Many kinds of plants and shrubs are
propagated by this method 1t is
Especially useful in propagating hy-
brids that do not come true from
seed, and when the cuttings are
slow or difficult to root. Hybrid
rhododendrons, lilacs, some of the
dogWoodS, tree peonies and others
ere commercially grown in this way.
In simple grating the scion is
given long tapering cut at the
base A similar cut is made on the
side of the host plant. The scion
is then fastened to the host plant
with the cut edges of the scion and
the host matched as far as possible.
The union is then wrapped and
waxed. Similarly root-grafting con-
sists of putting scion of one plant
on the root of another. This is
done in the winter with dormant
wood, 1t is usually the practice to
store root-grafts in damp peat moss,
aiding the callousing of the wound
until spring planting time.
Many gardeners have already tried
pulling apart mature clumps of
plants and planting the pieces. 1t
is surprising how easy this method
of propagation is. To take up a
large primrose and to pull it apart
and have a dozen or more husky
young plants to set out is thrill
ing experience for the novice. This
same method of propagation works
on some of the spireas, roses (spe-
cies and old-fashioned), sweet
shrub (Calycanthus), Kerria, mock
orange Philadelphus), own-rooted
lilacs and many others Most Shrlns