Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1940-09-15

She Is shown with her guide on
reserve in the wiIds above Mon
antlers measured 81 inches.
main town, with it's stores and
internationally known artists COL
ony. Taos Pueblo is the largest in
the Southwest, with its five-storied
apartment" houses. Eight hun
dred Indians live in the pueblo, but
only a few were visible the morn
ing we arrived. Indian youngsters
Immediately set up q clamor for
money, but we couldn't stop
The Indian beds were folded up
against the wall. and a fire was
burning in the corner fireplace. A
picture of Abraham Lincoln hung
on the wall. The Indian governor
explained proudly that one of the
two canes beside the picture had
been presented to a Taos governor
by President Lincoln back in 1861.
Each governor presented the cane
in turn to his successor. The other
was an old Spanish cane.
Outside Taos women were busy
baking bread in their igloo-shaped
adobe ovens. One of the younger
housewives was prancing around in
the mud wearing high-heeled red
leather pumps. TIE Khiva was iso-
lated, as usual. the prongs of the
log ladder reaching far into the
air. Taos men make living by
farming and raising herds OF horses
and buffalo. They get water from
mountain stream that runs
through the middle of the pueblo.
Before luncheon at the Saeebrush
Inn we visited the HARDWOOD gall
leries-wi:h the eerie black and
white portrait Of Stokowski by
Dorothy Brett-and passed the
Ranches de Taos Church, a post
card picture Of white adobe. The
inn had hot chilli, coffee and blue
berry tarts waiting for U.s. Its Iv-
ing room and many Of the bed
rooms have flreplaces with the ever
present pinyon logs, Indian baskets
and paintings Of the Southwest by
Taos artists. It Is a hotel that
belongs on every Southwestern
itinerary.
Prehistoric Caves Explored.
The third day of the detours was
spent crawling into the prehistoric
caves of Frijoles Canyon. The
ruins lie at the base of eroded cliffs
compoped Of volcanic ash or "tufi."
On the floor Of the canyon are the
ruins of Tyuoni, believed to have
been the community house of the
village, and meaning place where
they made treaty Of peace" Two
underground khivas have been ex-
cavated, built in 1850. Up in the
caves smoke from fires cold a thou
sand years still blackens the CELL
ings and walls The floor Of the
largest cave was shiny and black,
like linoleum. The ranger guide
explained that the floor compost
ton included silt. ground charcoal
and-blood. 1t held a fine polish,
regardless of use, and many Mexi-
can homes have the same floors to-
day. In another cave the wall
decorations could be seen beneath
the smoke pail. One Of the cliff
dwellings has been completely re-
stored. The rooms are tiny, and
each has q corner fireplace.
Frijoles. Canyon, or the Little
River Of the Beans, is part Of the
Bandeher National Monument. |
Adolph Bandelier was Swiss eth
nologist who came to the canyon
In 1880 and lived with the Indians
nearby. He wrote a historical novel,
THE Delightmakers," which has
FHjoles Canyon as It's setting. The
new lodge, picnic and camping |
grounds and particularly the new
highway make the canyon a popu.
lar stopping place in summertime
The new highway passes through |
the Otowi region with its pink
cliffs and canyons and rolling yell
low pine forests.
Back to Goth Century.
Before you cross the Rio Grande |
at Otowi on the way back to Santa |
Fe you will notice a solitary leg
and adobe house called simply
Edith Warmers house" She has
accommodations for several guests,
and, best of all, she can cook a
dinner you won't soon forget. We |
had made our reservations ahead |
of time. BY l o'clock, covered with
canyon dust and ready to climb
back into the Goth century. we sat |
down to eat. Our gray-haired host
ess passed the curry and lamb ra-
govt several times. Dessert was choc-
olate cake, and even the cowboy |
driver was too full to eat more than
thick slice and q half.
At San Illdefonso Pueblo we met |
Maria Martinez, who makes the
unusual black pottery. Her shiny |
black hair, cut in a Dutch bob, set
of in q wrinkled smiling face. She
was used to tourists. Neither she
nor her tall son pressed us to buy
anything - which, of course, was
just the thing to make us do so.
Her little adope home overlooked
the pueblo far out over the sunlit
valley. When she said Come back
again" I wonder If she knew she
was speaking for the whole South
Uocf and M rt{n,,1e rl,, Ga~fa III