davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The guardian., 1940-11-23

N LEAPS and bounds the sweater
vogue continues to gain momen-
tum. It does not matter whether
you are going mountain climbing,
skiing, skating, trailer travelling, fly
ing to your destination, motoring,
or whether you stay at home or ac-
cept bid to a formal dinner dance.
You can't mention a time, place
or event, but what a sweater will
help you fit into the picture" tri-
umphantly.
1t was not always thus, for there
was time when a sweater was
just sweater, thing of utility and
that's about all. But the story of
the sweater of winter 1910 bespeaks
service, glamour, romance, chic,
charm and versatility. In current
collections sweaters are in such va
ried tempo they tune to every occa-
sion, be it ever so humble or ever
so ostentatious.
The collection of models illustrat-
ed herewith convey some idea of the
wide range of fashion phases which
the present sweater vogue encom-
passes. The college seal" cardi-
gan shown above to the left flashes
big news to goods wherever they
may be enrolled. The buttons of
this classic Shetland cardigan are
reproductions of the college seal, so
a girl going to Smith, Vassar, Uni
versity of California, Wellesley, or
wheresoever will be properly identi-
fed by her own college seal but
tons. The college seal buttons on
this blue sweater pictured look like
Wedgewood with their blue back
grounds and white seals.
A long-torso jerkin pictured above
to the right in the group is a smart
casual fashion just introduced this
season. It is a wooll1nit Stimulating
handwriting so perfectly that none
but an expert can detect the differ
ence. The jerkin is fashioned in
flash red and the skirt in black
which, worn as they are with a white
silk blouse, this makes a most ef-
fective tri-color ensemble. You can
The guardian., 1940-11-23
Costume Jewelry
Sparkles Brightly

Have you seen the new jeweled
sleeve clips? You will yield to their
lure the moment you glimpse them.
They are as fetching an innovation
as has yet been devised. This gilt
tering jewelry piece is nothing more
or less than a huge clip that fastens
to the wrist of your long, close-fit-
ting sleeve. You can get matching
clips to wear at your neck or on
your lapel. Earrings tool Dazzling,
dangling types that are ever so fiat
tering and important looking.
Many necklaces are many-strand-
ed. Not only are gold and silver neck
laces showing this idea, but pearls
festooned in several ropes are the
newest.
Lots of coral topaz and amber are
being worn as their colorings tune
so beautifully with the autumn
browns, golden yellows and red tile
woolens so fashionable this season.
The guardian., 1940-11-23
TEHtRA ARttt1r

Everybody loves gingerbread-when
1t IS well made. The following recipe
was sent in by Miss Blanche Martin,
an expert culinary artist, who vouches
Tor the excellence Of gingerbread made
IN the manner described here.
QUEEN OF GINGERBREAD
272 cups -four
5a cup Of shortening
72 cup sugar
| well beaten egg
l cup molasses
l4s tep. soda
l cup hot water
Spices.
Measure and sift together 21s cups
OF Hour, 11a teapsoons soda. l tea
spoon Of connamon, teaspoon ginger,
za teaspoon cloves, Y tsp. salt. Com
bme 1 cup molasses and / cup hot
water, 70 finish mixture add the dry
ingredients alternately with LIQUIDS a
HIIle at time. Beat after each addi-
Ton until smooth. Bake in a paper
lned pan 9" 9" x 2" in a moderate
oven (35O' F.) for As minutes,
The guardian., 1940-11-23
Buttons Can Give
Glitter to Dresses
Metal, Jewels Provide New
Sparkle in Light.
By CHERIE NICHOLAS

Myriads of metal or jeweled but
tons are enlivening this seasons
fashions. Silver buttons give gleam
to black frocks and to gray-toned
tallleurs. Gold buttons go glitter
glitter on the new brown, beige and
golden hued woolens. The latest
sensation is the two-tone silver and
gold buttons in original design which
harmonic every costume color. Ac-
tually there is no type or color of
dress that cannot have a harmonic
ing metal button this season.
An important feature of these met
al button originates" is that they
are matched with clips, pins and
belt buckles.
For your tailored outfit you can
get round or square buttons pat
termed in alternating quarter-inch
silver and rose gold stripes. If you
want interesting outline, select sill
yer propeller button with the center
nub in gold. For fancier dresses
there is a rose gold bowknot mould
ed in repose on a silver button, or
a stylized leaf and bud design may
meet with your idea. For your fur
coat there are floral sprays of gold
flowers on silver leaves. These
two-toned buttons cost no more than
monotone metals and have the ad-
vantage that they tune to different
dresses.
Plastic buttons for coats and suits
trend to more elaborate effects this
season. One group of buttons gains
height by featuring a series of rims,
one within another. These plastics
in original designs come in all the
popular winter coat and suit shades,
so they can be closely matched to
any color or fabric.
Jeweled buttons sparkle this year
as never before. On the smart jack
ct blouse of rich brocade or metal
cloth, also the monotone velvets,
rhinestone and coIorful stone-set but
ton rows march down the front in
glittering array.
Jet buttons on siren black frocks
are quite the ''last word" In fact
jet buttons are in taste and high
fashion on gowns and bodices of ev-
cry tone and tint.
You'll love the colored cut glass
buttons. Many Of them, taken on a
jewelry aspect in that they are de-
signed in floral sprays that look stun
ming on dress-up velvet or sheer par
ty frocks.
The guardian., 1940-11-23

The change of seasons is Natures
Wav of taking off the old and putting
on the new" Four time year, she
starts again to bedeck herself for the
coming months.
This is her cue to the beauty-minded
to check up, to review their makeup
practices. It is Natures suggestion
to her subjects to follow in her foot
steps.
The cold winter days are yet to
come but it is not too soon to plan for
protection. Take an inventory of
Yourself and decide how to keep your
beauty through the difficult days
ahead.
Complexion
Chapping, or drying of the skin, is
not only unnecessary but truly mex
rusable The first rule to remember
in cleansing the face is to wash it with
a mild soap, well lathered, using luke
warm water. Make it a point to dry
your face thoroughly. Pat it dry with
q soft towel Rubbing has an irritating
effect on most compilations and abets
chapping rather than protects against
it. Follow with an astringent (be sure
to use astringent whose content of
alcohol is smalD, a powder base and
then apply your makeup.
Makeup
Speaking of makeup, it is wise to
adopt a completely new tone of cos
mctics to harmonic with the deep
shades now popular. Try powder with
"a eight tone to bring out the high
lights of your complexion so needed
on grey days. Brighten up your make
up generally and see how quickly your
spirits pick up.
Hands
Did you know that your hands tell
"twice' the story of you? Look at
them closely and read the story they
tell you. If you have given them little
more than cursory attention, don't
expect them to describe you in very
complimentary terms. Probably you
have let them go because it is so easy
to be informal and careless. If you
have continued to care for them every
day, then lucky you do not need to
worry now. If you have been care
less and neglected to keep your hands
soft and smooth, start now to make
up for lost time. Be sure to dry your
The guardian., 1940-11-23
s:J POI Sol n a sss5 :Ss b. 4
5;a s ri 3 e = z 9 ssss y ] y;

hands we'll after each washing and pat
into the flesh a good lotion. You'll be
glad when your hands defy weathering
and look lovely, as you want them.
The guardian., 1940-11-23

Here is pictured the famous mil
lion-dollar Jonker diamond that re-
Gently made its Chicago debut at
the fourteenth annual st. Lukes hos
pital fashion show. At this highly
important style revue the diamond
was worn by Princess Rostislav,
whose husband is a Romanoff. The
picture portrays the princess wear
ing this precious jewel worn sus-
pended from an exquisite necklace.
Also in the inset Princess Rostislav
is shown with the diamond as a
coiffure adornment, a suggestion
very timely to women because sin
gle distinctive jewelry pieces are be-
ing worn with gowns of classic sim
plicity. The gown for this occasion,
as photographed, is a stately black
velvet with exquisite lace outlining
a quaint and picturesque drop shoul-
der decolletage.
The guardian., 1940-11-23

also get a long torso red jacket with
long sleeves which is woollznit to
simulate hand knitting and may be
worn INTERCHANGEABLE with the jer-
kin or over it.
Fashioned after a mans dinner
jacket, the beautifully draped and
tailored evening jacket portrayed
below to the left is high fashion
news. 1t is made of flame colored
tricot cord, a woolknit fabric and
trimmed with cleaning jet. Worn
with black pencil silhouette skirt,
it is definitely winter 1910, brought
up to last-minute style standard by
its long sleeves which stress the
covered up look featured in eve
ming costumes Of latest vintage.
Almond green, one of the lowell
est colors on fashions list, imparts
charm-plus to the two-piece wool
and woolknit outfit pictured below to
the right. Here is a tremendously
smart outfit for campus or casual
wear. The II gore skirt and the
front of the long-torso jacket are
woven of imported Shetland wool.
The jacket back and sleeves are
knitted of the same fine wool yarn
to simulate "classy" hand knitting.
A pair of two-tone gold clips is
worn at one side of the round high
neck. The Identification bracelet is
also of two-toned gold.
Ever so chic is the afternoon
sweater-jerkin knits of fine yarn that
eft like the paper on the wall" to
below the hips. Interworked are
tiny glittering jet beads and jet Sc
quins in an allover density that looks
as if the glitter had been sprinkled
on instead of interknit. This type is
especially smart when worn over
a pleated silk or sheer wool skirt.
Released by Western Newspaper Union.)
The guardian., 1940-11-23
Fur Capes Rival
Jackets for Favor

The ever-popular little fur jacket
has a rival in the fur cape which
only this season made its appear
ance on the fashion stage. There
is nothing newer or smarter in the
way Of a fur wrap than the cape.
It can be either hiplength or shoul-
der deep, and for evening, the full
length ermine seal or persian lamb
cape are popular.
For casual wear the capes of spot
ted fur are in high favor with the
young set. There is a matching
muff, of course.
The fur capes for winter sports
wear are knee-length, and are made
Of sportsy fur that flashes a wealth
of color in plaided and monotone
wool Innings.
The guardian., 1940-11-23
Fads and Fancies

Wear a hair-bow, young lady!
Designers are showing long
cape costumes.
One-piece dress that looks like
two-piece is a fashion favorite.
Black is important, but fashion
is "all set" for a big color splurge
soon.
Straight down to the knees, then
a flounce, is new silhouette for
mula.
Nautical dresses, blue and
white, with sailor collars are
smart
Gay hoods and bright wool
fringe add decorative touch to
tweeds
The guardian., 1940-11-23

proach to the problem). A frank
inspection in full length mirror will
probably amaze you. Once you've
recognized your failings, you have won
half the battle. If you find it difficult
to analyze your figure, use the rule of
wrist given below:
Chest should be 51a times the wrist.
Waist should be 4A times the wrist.
Hips should be times the wrist.
Thigh should be 37a times the wrist.
Knee should be 21a times the wrist.
Calf should be pa times the wrist.
Ankle should be IL times the wrist.
Make a notation of the results of
your examination and, if you are dis
satisfied with YOU, get to work imme-
diately to remedy the faults.
Help America keep its reputation as
the home of beautiful women.
The guardian., 1940-11-23
Figure

Figure
For those who are inclined to find
fault with their figures, this is the
opportune time to determine what is
wrong (this is the easiest part of the
entire procedure) and how to over
come it (and this is simple or difficult
depending on your method and ap-
The guardian., 1940-11-23

What are your beauty probIemsP
Write: Marie Dos0ming, Larieuse
Beauty Bureau, 3509 LindeU BJvd.,
st. Louis, No., and she will be glad
to aissaCer them. Be sure to enclose
a self-GddresSed stamped enUeIope.
The guardian., 1940-11-23
BEAUTY HINTS
By Nina Temple
HANTnc

HANDS
il fol %nat is the real beauty of hands; is
so,, co roIih' n shape or texture-no-I would
%"S ,,oS, cleanliness-grooming What is
banS. Vng pleasing than beautifully kept
i,alus' innI' have seen hands that were
ttaige' to,g' poorly shaped and coarse tex-
fooi ooIeu mat were such lovely hands we
deeiop jeei upon your brow that YOU would
t4Giare tif,Ii them peerless and most beau.
made. "iius ChaC God mas
Evening star., 1940-04-23
Orthodox Jewry
Celebrates Second
Day Of Passover
Seder Service to Be
Held Again Tonight;
Special Rites Conducted

In ancient times, communication
was so difficult that the Jews living
outside of Palestine feared they
might not be starting the observ-
ance of Passover on the correct
date. For their sakes, the Seder,
which opens the eight-day celebra-
ton, was held on two nights.
And SO, orthodox Jewry in Wash
ington will hold it's second Seder
tonight, again tasting bitter herbs
and chanting the songs that thank
God for the deliverance of the Jews
from bondage in Egypt.
Orthodox congregations had
Passover services this morning.
They will be repeated tomorrow
with the rabbis reading the story of
the exodus from Egypt. The Wash
ington Hebrew Congregation also
had special services this morning.
In homes, institutions and syna-
gogues last night, Washington Jewry
gathered around tables to celebrate
the Seder. At the Hebrew Home
for the Aged Morris Maser, director
of the home, conducted the service
Strangers, transients and wayfarers
ate unleavened bread and drank
the ceremonial wine at services in
the Hebrew Sheltering Society, 407
Massachusetts, avenue NV.
For the sixth year Jewish en-
listed men from the Army, Navy
and Marine Corps were guests OF the
Jewish War Veterans at services in
the Beth Sholom Synagogue.
Evening star., 1940-04-23
Death Of Woman in Fire
Probed by Coroner

The coroner's Office today was in
vestigating the death Of 40-year-
old mother of two children who was
fatally burned yesterday afternoon
when her clothes ignited from fire
in her home.
Mrs. Louise A. Rehm, wife of a
P. w. A. accountant, died in Cas-
ualty Hospital several hours after
neighbors found her screaming in
her home, 6115 Third street NV,
with her clothes aflame.
She was alone at the time of the
fire which was believed to have
originated in a basement clothes
closet. Her children, Emil, jr., 7, and
Elizabeth, 8, were in school, while
her husband, Emil Rehm, was at
work.
DR.. E. H. Sloan, a dentist, living
at 6127 Third street NV, saw smoke
emanating from the Rehm home
and turned in the alarm. With his
sister, Miss Leona Sloan, the neigh
Dor entered the residence to find
Mr.. Rehm's clothing in flames.
The dentist and his sister wrap
ped Mrs. Rehm in blankets and then
attempted to extinguish the fire in
the closet, police learned.
DR.. Sloan quoted Mrs. Rehm as
saying she was attempting to light
stove when her clothing caught
fire.
In addition to her children and
husband, Mrs. Rehm is survived by
three sisters, two brothers and her
father and mother, all of Baltimore.
Firemen quickly extinguished the
fire.
Evening star., 1940-04-23
Mrs. Roosevelt
Continued From First Page. }

selves we really do away with some
OF our basic liberties"
She said the country was mot yet
threatened" in way that would
justify the sentiments she has seen
expressed in letters and heard in
conversations.
She went on to say that people are
saying things now which five years
ago they themselves would have
thought a curtailment of the liberty
OF some minority.
Asked If she approved of fighting
subsersive activities, she responded
that if proper investigation were
made, if legal rights were observed
and if the people who were doing
the investigating were those whose
jobs it had always been, she ap-
proved.
But, she emphasized, If it means
that the people in a community are
assuming that others in the same
community are Communists and
spreading that gossip around town
SO that person is suddenly ana
thema and branded without any
proof" she was against it.
In all her talk Mrs. Roosevelt
declined to be specific and when
asked If she was referring to the
Federel Bureau of Investigation at
any point, she reiterated her refusal
to name names.
Mrs. Roosevelt also said at her
press conference that she considered
a war referendum foolish" With
wars as they are today, mostly un-
declared, she explained, one has to
face the reality of what may happen.
She said the whole question boiled
down to whether a person believes
in a representative form of govern
ment.
Stressing that it was essential to
trust ones representatives in Con-
gress to respond to the Nationwide
sentiment against sending men to
Europe, Mrs. Roosevelt declared:
II don't think they (Congress) will
do anything they feel the country
is opposed to, but emergencies do
arise and we shouldn't tie their
hands to prevent them from meeting
emergencies.
She emphasized that when people
don't do their daily jobs as citizens
they are inclined suddenly to decide
they don't trust the men they have
elected to Congress. She dismissed
the referendum by asking how any
body would decide when to take the
referendum.
Mrs. Roosevelt also told her press
conference that she would accom-
pany the President on his tour in
June If she can get away.
Evening star., 1940-04-23
Appeal
Continued From First Page. }

from another State is subject to the
District income tax was brought by
Eugene S. Henning of $50 Randolph
street NV, who is junior electrical
engineer in the Navy Department.
He claims a full refund of an in
come tax of $13.79 which he paid to
the District. Testimony in the case
has been taken by 10 v. Morgan, sole
member of the Board of Tax Ap-
peals, but decision has been with
held, pending action in the James
j. Sweeney case, which the Dis
trict is seeking to carry to the
United States Supreme Court on an
application for a writ of certiorari.
District officials said there was a
striking similarity between the
Henning appeal and the fundamen-
tai facts in the Sweeney case. Mr..
Sweeney, an attorney for the JUS
tice Department, claimed a refund
of payment of intangible personal
property taxes paid the District, on
the ground that he was a resident
of Massachusetts, and not the Dis
trict, although he had lived and
worked here for 20 years. He lost
his case in the District Court, but
won the decision before the United
States Court of Appeals for the Dis
trict.
Broad Language.
While the Sweeney case applied
to an Intangible property tax and
not the income tax District officials
feared the language used on the
question of who is domiciled here
was so broad it might exempt from
the income levy thousands of persons
who work for the Federal Govern
ment and actually live in the Dis
trict but who claim legal residence
in State.
Mr.. Henning said he was born in
Worcester, Mass, and lived there
until he was assigned to his job in
Washington after having taken a
civil service examination. He Of
fered evidence to show that he had
paid poll taxes in Massachusetts, and
said he had voted there during the
five years preceding his coming to
Washington.
Desires Transfer.
In support of his argument that
he was not domiciled here Mr.. Hen
ming told the Tax Appeals Board he
would rather have had a job at the
Boston Navy Yard but that his as
Signment was to Washington. He
added he would like to have a
transfer to Boston, but one was not
now available and, in fact, trans
fers are difficult to obtain.
Tax Assessor Edward A. Dent re-
ported today the latest count showed
the District had received tax re-
turns calling for payments of ST.
$4,000 from 2,793 corporations and
$1,357 900 from individuals, there
being 63,523 who had reported tax
able returns. Mr.. Dent said there
were still some 10000 individual tax
returns yet to be tabulated and that
perhaps an additional payment OF
$780, 900 might be found in them.
He had some hope also of collecting
an additional 100000 from corpo-
rations which will make their re-
turns later. since they operate on .
fiscal year basis.
Evening star., 1940-04-23
Guffey-Jones Fight
To Be Settled TODAY
In Pennsylvania
Control Of Democratic
Porty Hinges on Result
Of Senatorial Primary
BY the Associated Press.

6y Ine hSSOclhLeQ fIeSS.
PHILADELPHIA, April 23.-Two
years of fighting for control of the
Democratic party in Pennsylvania
reached a climax today as voters
turned out to decide a noisy, free
swinging campaign battle on the
Democratic side and a contrastingly
serene Republican contest.
Democratic party rule hinged on
Senator Guffey's fight for renomi-
nation against his chief opponent,
Walter A. Jones, Pittsburgh oil
man, backed by a group of party
leaders headed by Democratic State
Chairman David L. Lawrence.
A third man in the race was
fiddle-playing William N. McNair,
former Pittsburgh Mayor and out
spoken anti-New Dealer.
Senator Guffey, the States white
haired 64-year-old junior Senator
broke with Mr.. Lawrence in the
bitter 1898 primary after a long
friendship and political association
He campaigned vigorously on a
100 per cent" New Deal record,
charging Mr.. Lawrence was respon-
sible for the party rift.
Jones New Dealer.
Mr.. Jones, Sc, also bid for votes
as a Roosevelt supporter, but left
most Of his public campaign work
to his hackers. He is chairman of
the Pennsylvania Turnpike Com
mission which is building a 0,O0O,-
600 superhighway across the west
ern part of the State.
On the Republican sids, party
leaders were united behind the SEN
atorial candidacy of Jay Cooke,
Philadelphia banker and great
grandson of the Civil War fnancier
OF the same name. His opponents
were Albert H. Ladner, jr., of Phila-
delphia and John A. De Reno,
Altoona publisher.
Lack of spirited issues caused
party officials to predict a light
turnout among the States 4,675, 5,622
eligible voters-2,046,129 Democrats
Evening star., 1940-04-23
-Four Hurt in $150,000
Fire at Baltimore
BY the Associated Press.

oy lIe ASSUCldteQ HIeSS.
BALTIMORE, April 23.-Four
f1remen were injured, one seriously,
today when wall of blazing ware
house collapsed and plunged them
of an 85-foot extension ladder,
through sheet of flame and into
heap of smouldering debris.
Rushed to hospital by DR..
Frank Ogden, Fire Department
surgeon, were:
Herman Jackson, possible frac-
tured pelvis and internal injuries;
Leonard Hoogebon, Charles A. Gen.
try and John c. Rudolph, cuts and
bruises.
The fire, at the four-story feed
warehouse of P. Frederick Obrecht
& Son on West Pratt street, caused
damage estimated by underwriters
at S150,0O0.
AS the four firemen reached the
top of the ladder. smoke and flame
roared so feet upward from the roof
and the wall baked with a crash,
carrying them down with it.
They were dug out of tumble of
bricks, mortar and feed bags.