Evening star., 1940-03-20
Learn to Pick
With Care
Maturer Woman
Must Avoid Anv
Blatant Shades
BY PATRICIA LINDSAY.

lime was Wnen women over 40
submissively accepted the dictum
that only very young girls, the
very frivolous or the more wayward
Of their sisters should resort to
beauty aids to make their appear
ance more dramatic. They resigned
themselves to colorless cheeks and
lips, and drab, fading hair. They
looked years older than they actually
were and were naturally forced into
the background OF the life about
them.
Today the women of this age
group-the interesting 4Os and sos
feel no restraint in using ju-
diciously chosen makeup, wearing
their hair smartly coiffured and
seeing that their skin and eyes and
bodies look youthfully fresh. IN
stead of looking older, the majority
of these women who have PAM
pered normal vanity look younger
than their years.
But it is true that their 4O-plus
beauty has distinct cosmetic prob
lens, especially when they shop for
makeup. The purplish reds,
mauves, plums and vivid orange
reds in lipstick and rouge mixtures
are distinctly not for them, for it
takes fresh, firm faces with an
abundance of pigment to carry off
such shades. But there are most
flattering and appropriate makeup
shades for these women and their
choice depends only upon how much
skin and hair have faded.
The woman whose hair Is in the
pepper-and-salt stage of fading has
a more complex makeup problem
than her sister whose hair has
turned true gray or white. She
must synchroniZe her makeup COL
ors with the multishades of her
hair and a face which is frequently
very youthful in appearance.
If her eyes are brown and her hair
faded brown, lipstick and rouge
rejecting the rust glow of a sunset
Is most effective. The softest of
green's for eye-shadow and dark
brown for brows and lashes. Her
powder should match in skin tone
or be just one tone lighter.
Blue or green-eyed ladies with
faded black hair must select either
the purest of rose shades or, If she
is a younger 40, the truest of scar
lets. Here again purplish casts in
makeup ages the skins appearance,
and orange-reds do something
dreadful to it. Rouge should not be
used unless it is ever so lightly ap-
piled and then softly blended with
powder. Blue-gray or green-gray
eye-shadow for evening wear only,
and either very dark brown or
black lash and brow coloring. The
skin must be kept constantly lubri-
Gated to appear dewy in texture.
The pure gray, blue-gray or
white-haired belle has choice of
being dramatically sensational or
delicately aristocratic. If her skin
is clear and fragile looking she may
choose either one of the vivid, clear
reds twhose warmth suggests the
lusciousness Of the persimmon) or a
pastel rose or pink lipstick. The
newer hot-pink shade is quite likely
to be flattering also Much depends
upon eye makeup for this type of
beauty. Her eyes should be so
cleverly made up that close scruti-
nizing would not reveal her art. But
they should have depth. and per-
haps a true gray or gray-blue eye
shadow could be worn in the broad
daylight If it is covered with a COL
orless sheen.
Never should the makeup of
woman of 40-plus be blatant. She
must enhance the mellowness of her
beauty, not destroy it, But she
should feel that this fascinating mel
lowness needs accenting.