Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1940-09-15

hostess and took hold of the heavy
silver necklace she was wearing.
Where you get that?" he said. his
red skin wrinkling in the sunlight.
Quick as flash, she said. from of
a dead Indian" They both laughed,
and the Indian was hushed.
The trip out to San Juan passes
the Tesuque Pueblo on the left,
almost invisible in the desert sage
and the Sangre de Cristo Noun
tains on the right. The landscape
is one example of erosion after an
other. Yet the Indians, with
little irrigation, can make the land
worth farming for a living. The
Santa Cruz Valley drops a thou
sand feet down from Santa FEES
7,000-foot elevation. In this region
and Whereabouts roam the Peni-
tentes. This fanatical religious
group is frowned upon by the
Catholic Church. During 'the Eas-
ter season they are said to prac-
tice f1agellation and even the actual
crucifixion.
San Juan was the first Spanish
settlement north of Ell Paso, about
1898. The Indians were already
dancing when we reached the pueblo
courtyard. The best way to de-
scribe the startling costumes of the
basket dance Is to start at one end
and work up. The men wore mocas-
sins trimmed with skunk fur. Tur-
tie shells, bits of bones and bells
were tied around their legs. Any
exposed skin was smeared with clay.
The short skirts were wound about
with what the Indians call rain
sashes Sprays of green balsam
covered the upper arms and chest.
The men wore their hair in long
black braidS. The headdress was
a fans shaped basket weave caught
with balsam and tufts of cotton.
AS the dancers moved in their
rhythmic jerk they chanted.
Squaws in Heavy Blankets.
Their woman partners were COW
cred with heavy blankets and huge
white moccasins with heavy folds
between the ankle and knee They
kneeled on the ground as the men
turned toward them. Baskets were
laid down and the squaws rubbed
sticks to the beat OF the Indian
drums. The crowds watching the
dance milled about in the sun.
Driving on into the New Mexican
countryside, again the contrast be-
tween brown adobe houses and
blue sky was striking. We pissed
through tiny Santa Cruz, set
tied in the early 16O0s by Span
iards. Their descendants living
in New Mexico today refuse to
be called Mexicans, even though
they speak Spanish. They are al
ways referred to as Spanish Ameri-
cans, which in turn forces the rest
of the white settlers to be called
Angles"
Truchas and Cordova are both
ancient villages. Cordova is famous
for its wood carver, the late Jose
Lopez, who was also a leader of
the Penitentes. Strings of drying
chilli beans hang from adobe raft
ers outside the simple houses. AS
you pass through these little New
Mexican towns every one and every
thing seems to be sleeping in the
afternoon sun. Further on is Chi
mayo, the name that means fine
Indian blankets. This would be
almost forgotten village were it
not for the Sanctuario. This little
Spanish mission church is more
than 300 years old. Buried in the
courtyard are members Of the Cha
vez family, who were responsible
for the restoration.
If you are curious about adobe, !
the courier hostess will explain that
it is made of native mud and straw
dried into bricks. Rainfall in New
Mexico does not exceed - or IA |
inches annually, so the adobe houses
are in no danger Every spring, !
however. housewives have to get out |
and make repairs.
Beautiful Rio Grande.
In Texas the Rio Grande is a
muddy river. In New Mexico. be- |
tween Taos and Santa Fe. the Rio |
is beautiful to behold as
the clear green whirlpools break |
over mountain boulders.
Taos is really three villages-the |
Pueblo, Ranches de Taos and the |