Evening star., 1940-08-19
New York Prepares
For Role Of World
Fashion Dictator
Trade Experts See Fall
Of Paris Increasing
Output Of Apparel
By OLIVER MCKEE.


In the belief that dame fashion
is deserting the boulevards of Paris
to establish a new home on this
side of the Atlantic. New York is
preparing to play the role of world
fashion center and the arbiter OF
style trends. A transfer Of the
worlds fashion center from Paris
to New York, according to Uncle
Sans trade experts, will tend to
increase the output of women's
apparel by American manufacturers
and enhance the prestige of the
United States overseas. 1t will
therefore be development of sub
stantial economic Importance.
BY long tradition and custom,
Paris has set the style trends in
women's apparel. Its place as the
worlds fashion center has largely
depended on its export business.
Because of the ban on European
travel American buyers and style
experts can no longer visit Paris.
Some of the best-knoWn French
dressmakers have come to New York
and. with the eclipse of Paris,
American designers are ready to set, |
and initiate. fashion trends.
If the United States becomes the
recognized fashion center of the
world. an increase in the exports
of women's apparel to South Amer
lea and other parts of the world
still open to American trade seems |
likely. Quota restrictions imposed /
by many countries on imports are
an obstacle that may prevent such
an increase. Were it not for these
restrictions, according to Commerce
Department experts, the United |
States would be selling abroad far
larger quantities of women's clothing !
than 1t is today.
Style Important Factor.
In the sale of womens apparel,
style is a highly important factor.
A few decades ago women we're
more disposed to place emphasis on
the quality, durability and utility.
Today, these factors are not stressed
as much by customers as style. A
nation that sets the styles, there
fore. has a big advantage in inter-
national trade
Hollywood exerts great influence
on world styles, for American mo-
ton pictures have created demand |
abroad for clothing similar to that
worn by the leading ladies of Holly
wood. Recognizing the value of
the Hollywood trade mark. manv
manufacturers of women's apparel
in recent years have moved to, or
established branches in, the Los
Angeles area.
That Paris, after the war, will seek
TO recapture its place as the worlds
1ashlon center, seems likely. This
may not be easy, however, if New
York is able to consolidate it's posi-
ton, and If customers get the habit |
OF looking to New York as the initia-
tor OF authentic styles. If the Nazis
win the war, Europe will be regi-
mented under closed economy
What place Paris will occupy in such
an economy is not yet clear. For the
Nazls may want to set the styles for
Hitler's continental empire.
London at DISADVANTAGE.
In mems clothing, London has
held a place somewhat similar to
that which Paris has occupied as
the arbiter of womens styles. The
war has placed London at a disad-
vantage. and its prestige will suffer
an even greater blow if the Nazis
conquer Britain. The United States
therefore may also become the
worlds fashion center for mems
Britain is making determined ef-
fort to maintain, and increase, its
exports of textiles and clothing to
the United States and other West
ern Hemisphere countries. One OBJ
Jective of this drive is to secure the
foreign exchange needed for the
purchase of war materials.
Under the auspices of the British
Mantle Manufacturers Association.
Irving L. Portenoy, a British manu-
facturer, recently arrived in this
country to supervise a campaign TO
sell $1000,000 worth of women's
coats and suits in the United States.
Mr.. Portenoy was a pioneer in the
American style-British made"
which started in Great
Britain several years ago. Some
tWoscore British manufacturers are
cooperating in arranging an expo
sition, which will be held in New
York shortly, featuring a collection
Of several hundred models styled and
manufactured in Great Britain.
Because of the war, the continent
of Europe has virtually been closed
to British exporters. The United
States and other New World coun-
tries are still open. Britain has long
had a substantial trade with the
United States in fine woolens and
,ther quality goods. AS evidenced by
the current drive, Britain is making
q determined and aggressive effort
to hold and, if possible, expand this