Evening star., 1940-07-31
BY HELEN VOGT.

In these hectic and changeable
times, even the fashion column
sounds like a report on world af-
fairs. The problems of the French
couture, the determination of the
English to carry on, and the bid
of America in general, Hollywood
and New York in particular, for
the fashion leadership of the world,
all make for news in style circles.
According to Rosemary Clifford,
our fashion correspondent recently
returned from England, the English
designers hope to take over the
position formerly held by the French
couture. Under the direction of
Norman Hartnell-you1l remember
him as the creator of Queen Eliza
beth's wardrobe-they have gath
cred together to present a winter
collection in London. In addition
to Hartnell, there are such famous
names as Victor Stiebel, Digby Nor
ton, La Chase, Worth and Paquin,
missing only Capt. Molyneux in the
group. Each designer will present
his own collection in his own show
room, but with hours carefully
scheduled so that buyers can see
them all within three days.
Hartnell, as you may also re-
member, sent to America a collec-
ton in February, and now hopes to
profit by his increased knowledge
of what American women want to
wear. The staff that accompanied
the collection is advising him and
French filters, cutters and finishers
evacuated from Paris are handling
his designs to give them that au-
thentic Paris touch.
Business as usual" seems to be
the slogan of these London design
ers, but what the outcome of such
a venture will be, no one could
possibly say at this time. In spite
of the fact that they have been
promised the cooperation of Amer
1can, Canadian and South Ameri-
can buyers, it is still something
OF a riddle, as far as we are con-
cerned, to discover how these COL
lections are to be successfully shown
and exported as the danger to Eng
land grows daily more acute.
Meantime, Nine. Elsa Schiaparelli
arrived in New York to lecture
and to create a small collection for
the benefit of French charity. Her
feeling seems to be that the French
couture will and can carry on, but
this, too, is matter for question.
At least, it should be some time
before things are sufficiently set
tied to permit the restoration OF
the French couture as the world
formerly knew it.
In our own country, however,
the difficulties of the nations at
war have meant more than any
other thing to the designing talent
of America. New names have ap-
peared and well-establshed ones
have become even more vital in this
move to make the United States
a leader in the creative fashion
WI AyPlCu1 VI Clllc IicW UdlcIlG Is
Vera Adrienne, a little blond girl
who has been out of college only
a short time and who has designed
a complete line of clothes for an
excellent dress manufacturer. She
uses six basic types of women as
examples, and in this way, her
clothes suit almost every woman.
Evening gowns are her choice for
design and she does full gowns of
rich fabrics and slim sheaths for
dinner dresses that are clever and
"just right" according to our
American ideals.
Her chief triumph was being
asked to design gowns for a fashion
news film, and though her creative
work is not yet being distributed,
it promises to be one of the definite
influences in this business of build
ing up fashion leadership in this
country. From such youthful, en-
thusiastic work springs achieve
ment, and In the world Of design,
America may look forward to an
ever-increasin1 prominence.