Evening star., 1939-03-17

color, her genius for line, her train
ing in cutting.
But we de say you can choose
things that 60 together.
It's the easiest thing in the world
to wed your winter hat and coat
till death do them part.
If the coat has Persian on it, a
touch Of Persian on the hat makes
them one ensemble that looks not
merely flung together, but absolutely
made for each other.
If you have a gray suit with q
narrow brown leather belt, get a
gray felt hat with a brown leather
band.
Little milliners are particularly in
terested in doing this sort of thing
so don't be afraid to ask.
Incidentally, the shoe people are
making point of ensembling shoes
and bags, matching the feathers and
repeating the same motif on botn
Whenever possible take advan
tage Of such service.
This trick of repeating the same
motif is the easiest and most ele.
mentary principle of assembling 8
costume. The next step is some
what more difficult.
How Best to
Combine Lines.
Combining lines: When you buy
a coat or jacket to go over a dress
you must consider four lines-neck.
line, waistline, sleeveline and hem.
line.
If your coat has collarless neck.
line. your dress must supply a col.
lar, or you must wear scarf O,
some sort.
Remember that one neckline-
dress or coat-must be collared OF
filled in.
Your coat and dress must coincid
at the waistline, otherwise you'll ge
a bunchy effect, and when you throw
the coat open the discovery of tw,
waistlines disagreeing violently will
be disastrous.
| Also, you cannot wear a fittet
coat over a suit without looking lik
a piece of overstuffed furniture.
This does not, however, necessitatt
a long swagger coat. Infinitely
smarter are short box jackets.
Also. when considering waistlines
remember that a dress with sasl
is going to give a hunch-backe,
effect under fitted coat.
So, too, with sleeves. Paddle,
shoulders can't go under raglan
shoulders. obviously, or full sleeve
under fitted ones.
Finally with hemlines, if both Goa
and dress are full length they mus
hang the same distance from tn
floor or the effect is slovenly.
Combination
Of Colors.
Two contrasts are never bette
than one or even as good.
So let's make it a rule to site
to two colors at the most.
In this connection we exclud
jewelry. You might find a blacl
dress with chartreuse chiffo
handkerchief tucked into the higl
neck vastly improved by a jad
clip.
But that's advanced stuff. Let
stick to first principles.
l. Your hat should match you
coat and shoes.
2. Your shoes should match you
bag if possible.
3. Always repeat a colorful accen
at least once, but not too often.
Rules for
Fabrics.
Combining fabrics: Never combine
two different materials in the SAM
class; that is, never two differen
furs, laces, crepes, wools, cottons O
tweeds.
On the other hand, you can com
bine silk and satin, satin and wool
wool and fur, tweed and flannel.
Let's divide our materials into fou
groups; sports, street, matinee O
cocktails and evening, and agre
to make combinations only within
those groups.
/. Sports Materials:
Fabrics are rough or hairy. Harri
or Donegal tweeds, homespuns, an
goras; or man-inspired: tie-sllk
shirting. flannel, Palm Beach cloth
gamabdine; or crude: linen, crash
string, cretonne, cotton tweed.
Hats are man-inspired. too-felt
tweed, Panama, rough straw.
Leathers are rough-alligator. pig
skin, reversed calf, buffalo, buck
skin.
Furs are shaggy or heavy-Wolf
lynx, raccoon, badger, beaver, nutria
Jewelry is-Wood, metal, leather
shell.