Evening star., 1939-01-01

FteTSon, 1Dho recently returned to
Washington from a trip OF more
than 1900 miles ouer the south.
,ern continent.)
BY ELEANOR PERSON.
Until recently, Ecuador has been
comparatively isolated, which ac-
counts for the fact that it is en-
tirely unselfconscious and free from
pose. 1t has not changed its ways
OF life to suit the whims of the
average tourist, and it has kept its
most distinctive characteristics
while adopting all the essentials Of
civilized living.
Isolation has been a blessing in
disguise, at least from. the point
of view of the traveller weary of
seeing feeble attempts at aping
Paris and New York. But today,
isolation is no more, and one can
easily reach Guayaquil Its main
port, 40 miles from the coast on the
right bank of the Guayas River.
This is splendid city of 100000
inhabitants. listed as "class A" by
tllc SdlllIdIy duIIlOTlCleS.
The exotic life on the Guayas
makes deep impression on the
traveler-boats piled high with
tropical fruits move in every di-
rection and mingle with ships, sail
boats, barges, canoes, and even
house-rafts inhabited by whole
families. AS the plane nears the
airport, the green, velvety hills of
Guayaquil meet the eye with their
cluster of white houses and red
tiled roofs, everywhere a splash of
color lent by tropical plants in full
bloom. The state house-Gob-
ernacion-looms in the distance, its
impressive white structure resplen-
dent under bright sun. Eyes
shift from the coast to the river
vegetation and to the fleteros
(baggage carriers) who swarm in
small boats around the passenger
steamers making use of every re-
source of gesture and word to Sc
cure business.
Variety of Attractions.
Guayaquil offers many attractions
to the lover of tropical scenery. It
has broad avenues flanked by solid
white buildings with fine arcades
and balconies; charming little plazas
where the travellers palm, shaped
like perfect fan, shields the
benches on which people sit in the
evening to listen to musical pro-
grams; sidewalk cafes that serve de-
licious ices, a market full of exotic
fruits of the region; hills from which
view Of the city is a feast to the
eyes; acres of cacao beans drying
on the streets and filling the air with
peculiar fragrance.
A progressive city is left behind
when, in the early morning, one fer
ries across the mile-wide Guayas
River on the way to Eloy Alfaro,
the starting point of the trip to
Quito. The Guyaquil-Quito Railway,
which makes possible the journey
ahead, is one of the greatest engi-
neering feats in the world. The first
part of the trip the train passes
along fields covered with tropical
neutrality-suspicious. of sugar
cane, cacao, pineapples, bananas,
which rapidly give way to less lux
urlant growth as the train reaches
the mountain region.
The most stirring part of the jour-
ney is reached at Nariz del Diablo
Devils Nose), a formidable noun
tain, which intercepts the road. The
train ascends 1900 feet in minutes,
along daring zig-zag road cut out
of solid rock along the mountain
side and supported by huge retaining
walls.
1t is a matter of minutes before
the paramo, or plateau, is in full
view with its double line of VOL
canoes-Illiniza, Sincholagua, Paso-
choa, Ruminahui, Cotopaxi. The
grandeur of these peaks is matched
by Chimborazo, Carihuairazo. Altar
and Tunguragua, which will be seen
in their full glory at Riobamba,
where the train stops for the night.
Leaving the train at Cajabamba one
may reach Quito by automobile early
the same evening.
Built at the foot OF the Pichincha.
Quito has streets that are narrow
and steep. Many houses literally
are perched on the mountainside.
The towers of many churches, the
typical Spanish Colonial architecture
of the old section of the city, the
quiet predominating everywhere, i'm
mediately give the impression that
one is in city of many traditions
and long and eventful history. The
Spanish settlement dates from De-
cember 5, 1884.
A city ideal for 1eisurely strolls,
Quito offers many delightful sur
prlSes wherever one turns-an image
maker carving a saint out of block
OF wood, with simple tools and deft
hands; silversmith patiently ham,
mering a bowl; sleepy little plaza
basking in the sun; a tiny shop dis
playing hand-wrought goods; fas-
cinating store specializing in kitchen
copperware; a street full of shops
catering to the Indian trade from
nearby districts, where colorful en-
broidered shirts are displayed and
the gay, square shawls embroidered
with birds and flowers in yarn, used
by the Indian women to tie their
babies on their backs; patios full of
flowers; massive Colonial doors
above which are religious inscrip-
tions and symbols carved in stone;
antique shops where one may buy
wooden f1gurines, ornaments of tor