Evening star., 1939-07-26

Homemakers who keep an ear
interest news of the things that come
to light at this Congress. For to-
days experiment may be the first
step toward tomorrow's tastier ONE
let. Breeding programs carried on
now may mean better fried chicken
later on-or the streamlined turkey
of the future.
But no matter how much poultry
products may be improved, the cook
always will have the same RESPONSE
bility toward them. She it is who
transforms them in the kitchen to
the family's favorite dishes.
Whether or not poultry meets with
happy ending depends somewhat
on the cooks imagination-her gift
for adding the kind and amount of
seasoning that appeals. But mostly,
it is matter of applying scientific
cooking methods worked out by ex-
pertinent and experience.
Fundamentals
Are Helpful
Although there are no blanket
instructions that apply to all poultry
cooking there are few fundamen-
tails. One point to bear in mind is
that poultry, like all meat, is a pro-
tein food and must be treated ac-
cordingly. High temperatures for
long periods of time shrink and
tougher proteins. Therefore, in cook
ing, have the heat moderate most of
the time.
Another sound maxim is adapt
the way of cooking to the age of the
bird" A plump old hen never could
compete with spring chicken in the
frying pan. But in its own field
steWed with noodles, for instance,
or braised or steamed-it's topnotch
food.
The best ways to cook young
chickens, turkeys. geese, guineas,
ducks, squads, are broiling, frying or
roasting. These three methods of
cooking have two things in common.
In none of them need any water be
added. In all three the lid may be
left of the pan. BY adding no
water, no extra steam is formed to
force out the juices of the meat.
BY leaving the lid off the pan, any
steam that is formed from water
present in the bird itself may escape.
There should be plenty of we'll
favored fat on hand when there
are young birds to cook. For the
meat of young birds. except ducks
and geese, is likely to be lean, and
it may dry out more if fat ism
added in cooking.
When broiling chickens. for ex-
ample, coat the pieces with melted
fat first, then sprinkle with salt
and pepper. And baste the chicken
frequently with pan drippings or
other melted fat as it broils. Then,
as the chicken is served hot OF the
grid, pour the pan drippings over
1t to blend with the rich Juice in
the meat itself.
Many good manager makes a
virtue of necessity when she cooks
an older bird. She cooks a fowl
long and slowly. AS carefully as
she keeps from steaming a young
roasting bird, for an older bird she
puts lid on the kettle to keep the
steam in-adds water to make more.
Steam helps to soften tough con-
nective tissues. Though more of
the juices and good chicken flavor
escape from the meat this way.
none are lost. Fer the broth makes
that good chicken gravy-always a
feature of stewed chicken dish.
Do Not Disjoint
The Fowl.
1t is best not to disjoint the fowl
for stewing or steaming Instead,
place 1t whole on rack in kettle.
To stew, f1ll the kettle half full of
water, partly cover the pan and keep
the water simmering. For steam
ing let the water come only up to
the rack, but keep it boiling and
add more as 1t boils away.
In either case let the bird cool
breast down-in its own broth. See
to 1t that this cooling is done in a
cold place. Warm broth spoils easily
especially in the summertime.
With the meat cool and cut of
the bones in uniform pieces. the
cook has the start of many good
dishes. For those who like it hot
there are chicken shortcakes made
by filling hot biscuits with savory
creamed chicken. Or there is cur
ried chicken topping f1aky boiled
rice-or chicken and spaghetti SEAL
lop-topped with buttered crumbs
and Drowned in the oven.
Served cold, meat cut of the
bones is good as jellied chicken