Evening star., 1939-02-26
By RICHARD HALLIBURTON.

Sdutng tHe fuC1JlC III CuIHeSe
junk.
BY RICHARD HALLIBURTON.
Seventeen years ago-'way back
In 1927 spent month in the city
of Canton. 1 had gone there to
spend day, but in that one day
quickly found out that Canton is
(was) one of the worlds most fas-
cinating cities and we'll worth all
the time visitor can give to it.
Canton is the commercial center
for SO million Chinese-and has
been for centuries. Its citizens have
a great reputation for thrift and
business craftiness. But they have
always been great adventures. too
From Canton steady stream of
emigrants mas flowed forth to popu-
late-and eXploit-foreign lands. In
California, in Hawaii. in Siam. in
Burma. in the South Seas, one finds
large colonies of prospering Can
tonese.
Curiously enough, along with this
commercial and adventurous spirit
has gone an artistic spirit. The
Cantonese are famous throughout
China for their good taste and their
love of beauty. In the arts and
crafts they are unsurpassed. Their
jade and ivory carving has made
their city the center of the world S
Jade and ivory industry. Much of
the superb art objects-glass, pot
terry, embroidery, lacquer-one finds
In Chinese shops and houses came
from Canton.
City Shattered by War.
Now, in 1889, have returned, to
ind this sunny city. this good
natured, life-loving city, damaged
by fire. shattered by war; it's once
teeming streets empty. its jade and
ivory buried in the ashes. its mil
lion people gone with the wind.
I'm one of the few Americans who
has had the opportunity to visit
Canton since the pail of death and
destruction descended upon it. For
several weeks I tried to get there.
but my junk-building activities in
Hong Kong-a hundred miles away
gave me no opportunity. Not till
the Sea Dragon had its trial trip
and was put back in drydock for a
lew minor adjustments was I free
to concentrate on Canton.
We decided. before heading for
San Francisco, to give our ship a
taste OF the rough weather which
is ahead of us. most of the wav
home. We needed to test our auxil-
larry engine along with the crew and
the sails. We knew that an engine
hoWever smalD in Junk was
something of an experiment which
might or might not work.
So We were all rather SURPRISED
and pleased when it started and
chugged merrily away.
Using the engine only, we moved
out of Hong Kong's spectacular
mountain-bound harbor. AS soon as
we reached the open sea. Capt
Welcn's big moment came. Our
brilliant orange foresail was raised
the engine killed Then the huge
white mainsail was lifted by five
men at the capstan. and finally the
little scarlet mizzen was stretched
aloft.
The rainbow canvas caught the
wind. The Sea Dragon, shining with
Its fresh red and white paint, re-
sponded. Slanting in the breeze
fitting over the waves, and with her
dragon flags flying against the blue
sky, she was proving herself at last
Chinese Regret Excursion.
The wind was brisk that day, as
We had hoped it would be. The
waves, compared to our little ship
were mountainous. Gayly the debu-
tante Sea Dragon climbed up and
down the water, leaning before the
wind until her rails were almost
buried. The deck slanted and heaved
And our guests. the Chinese, very
soon began to regret their excursion.
Building a junk was grief enough,
said Mr.. Fat Kau afterward But
SAILING IN one never again.
His third wife, who accompanied
him, succumbed soonest. Wrapping
her head in her shawl, she moaned
and groaned. Then the painters and
the carpenters and the Chinese
pilots son followed suit. This
youngster, a child of II, baff1ed us
all by being actively seasick with
out once varying his cheerful grin.
Our cabin boy went below to die in
his bunk, after 80 minutes on the
bounding main. Paul Mooney, at
the tiller, looked grimly resolved not
to give in to a mere ocean. And
1.-The worlds worst sailor-lay
prone on the deck, praying for a
wreck. pirate attack, or for dooms-
day-for anything, in fact, that
would end this oscillation. During
this crescendo of distress, George
BarstoW, our accordionist, went
around with his movie camera, TAX
ing movies of the rest of us as we
hung over the rail. We could gladly
have killed him, only we didn't
have the strength.
Meanwhile, the ship was being
subjected to every possible strain.
Capt. Welch put her through her
PAGES violently. The rigging creak-
ed, the timbers groaned. But the
ship responded sensitively to the
rudder, and though she was slower
than we hoped, she sailed we'll Our
greenest hands managed to hold
her to her course. The deck wasn't
even wetted with spray, so well she
rode the swells.
AS we pitched and rolled. Capt.
WEIGH and Engineer Won Fehren
noted every weak point in the junk.
On our return they estimated it
would take at least seven days to
recalk some Of the seams and refit
some of the equipment. Minor de-
tails, but they might prove of vital
Importance when we were we'll at
sea.
While the rest of the crew were
hard at work I took advantage of a
very special opportunity and ran
of to Canton.