Askov American. [volume] (Askov, Pine County, Minn.) 1914-current, 1939-07-20
Gardeners Nook
By GARDEN CLUB EDITOR

BY GARDEN CLUB EDITOR
This old world that we're living in
Is mighty hard to beat
You get thorn with every rose
But-ain't the roses sweet?
Frank Stanton.
Nasturtiums and various other sue
culent plants fall prey to plant lice
(aphis) during warm weather. These
creatures form colonies, usually
around the tips of the leaf stems,
just beneath the 'blades" of the
leaves. They are best controlled by
Contact insecticides applied at
weekly intervals to the under sides
of the leaves. Among the best are
nicotine sulphate, pyrethrum extract
and rotenone.
Bush roses whose blossoms have
been freely cut will need little or no
pruning to secure good bloom later
in the season; but those that have not
been so treated should have their
shoots shortened to only two or three
joints. All should be given liberal
dressings of liquid manure or COM
plete commercial fertilizer and, dur
ing dry weather, kept well supplied
with moisture by deep drenching at
weekly intervals till the autumn rains
take up this chore.
Oriental peoples are now, or soon
will be, dormant. If new plants are
wanted, dig up the clumps with the
spading fork, break or cut them apart,
trim the roots one-quarter inch or
larger in diameter with a right angle
cut across the top and slanting cut
below $50 as to know which end to
plant upward), make each cutting
about an inch long, plant them an
inch deep in soil mixture consisting
of three part sand and two of good
garden soil, well sifted and mixed).
Mark the place with labels. Few, if
any, plants will show until next
spring. Let the tops die down before
transplanting next summer.
Peonies (and asparagus) are now
developing their buds for next sea-
sons stems. So now is the time to
feed the plants rather than in the
spring. When applying chemical fer
tilizers avoid getting any on the
plants, especially the bases of the
stems where the new buds will be. A
foot away is safe. If the ground is
dry, soak the fertilizer in.
Iris division is best done as soon as
the blooming season is over. Plants
three years old are usually too thick
to produce their best blossoms, so use
the spading fork to lift them. Break
them asunder, get rid of old, useless
parts and replant the pieces, taking
care to have the rhizomes (the thick
parts) barely covered with soil, but
with the fibrous roots extending deep
ly in the ground. For best results
give the plants full sun.
Iris BOrer.
The iris borer often enters the
garden through the purchase of new
plant varieties and may do consid-
cradle damage to an iris planting if
not readily recognized.
Long narrow holes will be noticed
on the leaves the first part of June.
Close inspection will show that the
holes lead to a tunnel which extends
into the rhizome When the leaves
are pulled apart they are found to
be wet.
If the variety is not valuable it
should be dug up and destroyed, but
otherwise all infected parts may be
cut away and burned.
The moth lays her eggs in the fall
on the iris leaves, so an important con-
troll measure is to destroy the leaves
in the early spring. An insecticide
should be applied thoroughly over the
leaves and the surrounding soil so that
the small borer will be poisoned when
it eats its way into the leaves. Ar
senate of lead or rotenone are par
ticularly effective.
There are many more fragrant
flowers, some more pleasing than
others, but all are an addition to the
charm of a garden.
Huge transatlantic liners have de-
veloped brand-new branch of ancient
science of horticulture-sea garden
ing
Blue ribbon ships carry hundreds
of growing plants and flowers, requir-
ing treatment somewhat different
from mainland gardens. Chief obsta-
Gle is airs high salt content which
causes salt organisations, killing
plants. Best sea gardens are those
under air-conditioning in
public rooms of liners. Ocean gar
deners report best luck with azaleas,
cvc1anoen roses carnations and hy-