Evening star., 1939-07-23
lucerne Is Answer
To Definition Of
Swiss Resort
Modern and Antique
Scenes Spice Visit
ToCentroI Switzerland
BY FRED DOsSENBACH, Jr.

GUCERNE, July 22.-Lucerne Is
Switzerland's answer to the Ameri-
can definition of Swiss resort. One
can almost hear the Hollywood di-
rector yelling to the prop crew: "One
more Alp over here and another
dash of bluing in the lake. and now,
yes, sir-it's perfect. Whatta set
whatta set!" And to tell the truth,
Lucerne makes even the Swiss look
twice.
The lake glitters in large bowl
scooped out of green hills, and be-
yond the hills are the jagged sky
giants with their snow peaks brush
ing the sky. Along the lake front
broad, tree-lined promenade twists
toward Strandbad, where a luxuri-
Gus lawn adjoinS the more prosaic
beach of sand The American visitor
can play golf, tennis or enjoy count
less excursions by foot, lake steamer
and auto.
The town itself is an intriguing
combination of the modern and
antique Medieval church spires
watch modern electric trains glide
into the station, and movie theaters
, and smart shops rub elbows with
wrinkled buildings that were old
centuries ago. This Interviewing of
old with new is an example of Lu-
cernes knack of pleasing everybody
Young visitors find the resort lively
and gay, while grandma sitting on
the veranda in her rocking chair as
she travels via Baedeker, finds it
properly sedate and restful.
Music Enlivens Resort.
American travellers to Lucerne this
summer will find an added distrac-
ton. The streets will be Uttered
with musicians. The resort made
its debut last year as a first-class
music center. In 1889 Lucernes
second International Music Festival
will be held from the end of July
to the beginning of September, with
Toscanini heading the world-re-
nowned artists who are to take part.
Lucerne is easy to get acquainted
with. One of the first things you'll
notice while strolling around town
are the seven ancient watch towers.
The octagonal Water Towers 7-foot-
thick walls seem curiously out of
place as they rise above the skidding.
blue-green waters of the Reuss
River Centuries ago the Water
Tower was prison, fully equipped
with suitably dark dungeon and
torture chamber with every incon-
venience. Today it houses the mu-
nicipal archives.
Alongside the Water Tower the.
Kapell Bridge zigzags across the
river Nearby, and similar in con-
struction, is the Spreuer Bridge
Both are excellent examples of
medieval architectures and their
unique wood-tile roofs and plank
constructions have been carefully
preserved and renovated Not con-
tent in merely spanning the Reuss,
the two bridges are also art gal
leries. A series of n triangular
tablets. with frescoes on both sides,
decorates at regular intervals the
roof of the Kapell Bridge. They
depict the deeds of the city's old
time saints and heroes. The Spreuer
Bridge. in its turn, is renowned for
its early l7th century paintings in
terpreting in 64 scenes the instabil-
ity of human life with Dance of
Death"
FreScOed Houses.
The townsfolk are proud of the
Rathaus. or Town Hall. which is
an exceptionally fine building in
oicco t1r1o cit1 oPS oio 1c
still use it, holding their meetings
above the ground floor, which has
been turned into museum. In the
section around the Rathaus the
traveller finds Lucernes noted fres-
coed houses. One of the best is
the Gasthaus zu Pfstern, which
bears the coat of arms of the Bakers
Guild. Frescoes on other houses
picture domestic scenes, old-time
festivals; and on the Weinmarkt
Platz an entire group of painted
houses forms square so charming
+ ly medieval and incongruous that
you almost suspect it's been tucked
away for the sole benefit of maiden
ladies who expect something too
quaint, my dear.
One thing every visitor goes to see
Is the Lion Monument. 1t has some
how become Lucerne's own touristic
emblem. The monument. carved
out of the rock wall of a cliff loom
ing over shaded pool, is in memory
of the Swiss Guards who fell in
defense of the Tuileries in 1892. A
few steps from the lion is the
Glacier Garden. with 80 large and
small so-called "potholes," or caul-
drons. They were in countless years
gradually formed by the whirling of
stones driven round and round by
the force of melted ice. Biologists
describe these holes as glacier
mills for the stones, rotated by
the water, ground the rock and at
the same time polished themselves.
Lucerne's largest glacier mill has
a diameter of 26 feet and a depth
of nearly 80 feet.
Birthplace of Republic.
Central Switzerland, with Lucerne
as its kingpin resort, is rich in his
toric lore. 1t was in this region
that the little mountain republic
really began. A short trip by lake
! steamer takes you to the southern
arm of the lake, right into the heart
of the Tell country.
On the way you may stop at
Brunnen, the starting point of the
famous Axenstrasse. The 8-mile road
tunnels through the face of per-
pendicular rock to Fluelen. But
don't stop at Brunnen if you're in
hurry. You'll surely start strolling
along the Axenstrasse, craning your
neck as you gaze up at the r-wigged
cliffs and the tumbling cascades of
water rainbowing hundreds of feet
down the sheer slopes.
Over on the other side of the lake
is the Rutli, a sunny meadow few
minutes walk from the shore. Here
at the Rutli, in 1921, Swiss democ-