Evening star., 1939-12-17

RF YOU want whole holiday atmosphere
in one package, 80 to speak - complete
. with the haunting traditions of great,
old fashioned kitchens where the tangy scent
of spices mingles with the succulent odor of
roasting fowl, while the feast is preparing for
the family's reunion in its two or three, or
perhaps even four. generations If you want
this, then plan on roast goose.
Go to market yourself, for you must pick
out young or green" goose, as the phrase
goes. Pluck it by the bill. pinch its feet! If it
is the kind of goose you want, its bill will be
pliable and its feet soft, and it will probably
weigh between eight and eleven pounds. Feel
the flesh carefully - it should be firm. Ex-
plore the breast with your fingers - it should
be well covered with fat.
A heavier goose than this will need moist
heat for cooking and, to be safe, you had
better parboil it before you put it in to roast.
Remember. also, that the meat is all dark"
meat, though all the flesh of young or
green goose will be lighter -oolored when
it is cooked.
When you are ready to roast the goose,
proceed according to these directions:
Roost Goose
First estimate the roasting time from the
weight of the dressed goose; allow Is to 80
minutes per pound. The temperature is
moderate, $50 degrees F. (or use 45O degrees
F. for 20 minutes, then reduce to moderate,
$50, for remainder of time).
Place goose, breast up, on rack or tivet
in shallow, uncovered pan. Do not stuff -
yet. The first part of the roasting will be fat
trying out process. Roast at the above tenn
perature for one hour. Then remove from the
oven, allow to stand until rather cool; pour
off all the fat in the pan. Then. if you are
going to stuff, do it just before completing
the roasting That may be now or next day.
If the goose seems to have an unusually
heavy fat layer, pour off fat again at the end
of the second hour. And remember: no water;
no basting. The fattiness of the bird makes
basting unnecessary when roasted at this low
temperature.
If you prefer not to stuff the goose, the
roasting may be continuous except for pour
ing off the fat. If you do want to make
stuffng, a tart one will be best. Use plain
sauerkraut for this, or mixture of chopped
tart apples and dried fruit.
ONE man who enjoys roast goose more than
any other person know is Friedrich Schorr,
baritone of the Metropolitan Opera "a
great lover of good food, with the knack of
doing some special dishes extremely well.
you don't get roast goose often enough
here in America" he says, but it was very
popular in Hungary where was born. Goose
is the big Christmas dish there. And preced-
ing it at table comes fish course - always
carp which is sometimes boiled, sometimes
baked, and is served with butter sauce.
Poorer persons who cannot afford to buy
a whole goose, liver and all, take out the liver
and sell it back to the butcher again. Goose
liver, you see, is exported from there to be
made into pate de foie gras.
When cook does buy whole goose, she
often removes the liver, anyhow, and saves
it for goose goulash, made like any goulash
except that you have liver instead of other
meat And sometimes she roasts the liver
separately That is very delicious. But of
course, it must be remembered that the geese
of Hungary are grown very large and are fed
q dict m nro<uce enormous livers