Evening star., 1938-06-04

and grass clippings, weeds and the
Such material may be converted into
compost by simply throwing on a
pile in some out-of-the-wa corner or
1t may be made in a most scientific
manner by adding all OF the in
gradients that it takes to produce the
last word in composts. But, after all
is said and done, it is the vegetative
material (humus) that is the essential
element.
While a heap of material left in
some inconspicuous place will decay
in time, the better method is to pre-
pare a pit or box. The choice of
type Of container to use is immaterial.
Boxes will rot, of course, but they
are more easily made, and If of cypress
lumber are relatively Lasting.
Even the pits may be lined with
cypress concrete is commonly used,
and frequently no lining material at
all.
!. To encourage the thorough decom-
position of the material it should be
turned two or three times during the
season. The outside layer decays very
slowly. By turning it in to the center
it will break down more quickly. This
Is especially true of materials piled
on the ground, and more so if exposed
to the sun and wind.
*.*
THERE are many materials which
may be added that will hasten
the composing, and also add plant
food. A mixture of soil and vege-
tative material will break down more
quickly than the vegetable matter
alone. Adding fresh manure adds
plant food and aids decay. Ammonium
sulphate adds nitrogen and speeds
the rotting. Lime also is useful, but
should not be added where the COM
post Is to be used around Loving
plants and shrubs.
A man who grew some of the finest
iris in these parts regularly prepared
compost and depended solely upon it
for feeding his iris. He used oak
leaves, weeds, grass trimmings, cow
manure, ammonium sulphate, super
phosphate, sheep manure and lime.
He prepared well-made pile in
shady place each year. turned it twice
a year, and when it was 2 years old
used it in the making of his new
iris beds.
Considerable moisture Is necessary
for rapid composing, and this should
be taken into consideration in To-
eating and preparing the box or pit.
A shady place reduces evaporation.
A good lining helps to hold the
moisture. If kept thoroughly wet the
material should be ready to use in
year. The compost pile should be
out of sight-and yet convenient
enough to receive the weeds and veee-
table trimmings. 1t need not be large.
yet should be big enough to hold ali
available materials.
"A VOID throwing badly diseased or
infested materials into the COM
post pile. While it Is said that the
chemicals used in composing will kill
diseases and insects, it is a safer prac-
6ce to burn them.
BY adding sod and sand to the
compost pile fine soil for potting
and for flower benches is obtained.
Greenhouses depend very largely on
such a soil for their benches. Also.
1t makes an ideal top dressing for
lawns.
The arguments seem to be very one
sided in favor of compost pile. Then
why do we see so many people burn
ing their leaves every autumn instead
OF composing them2 Leaves are such
an invaluable source of humus for
the compost pile that the thrifty
gardener must shudder at the sight
OF such waste. Perhaps the reason
Is the lack Of some receptacle that
can be used without detracting from
the appearance of the yard. WHY
not pit with hinged door? A pit
2 or feet wide and S or 6 feet long
by 2 feet deep will hold a lot of
material. BY covering with a door
or vines 1t need not disfgure the yard.
ana besides. a good compost pile is the
mark OF q good gardener,