Evening star., 1938-02-20
British Ready for Fifth Everest Climb
H. Tlman Leader of 1888 Expedition Reaches India and
Party Will Prepare Base Camp About Middle of April
. ALCUTTA. Feb. 10 IN. A. N.
A).-W. H. Tilman, leader of
the 1898 British Mount Ever

tIlc 1890 bTlt&ll MUullG Ever
~ est expedition, has arrived in
India with E. E. Shipton Other mem
bers are en- route. and the party will
assemble shortly at Kalimpong, pre-
paratory to marching up through
Sikkim to the site of their base camp.
which will probably be established
toward the middle of April.
The expedition of this year is the
seventh to visit the mountain, and
the fifth to attempt to climb it. The
first expedition in 1921 and also that
of 1885 were for purposes of recon-
naissance. OF the four attempts in
1922. 1924, 1888 and 1886, it is inter-
esting to note that the numbers TAX
ing part were II, u, is and II. re-
spectively. All these, however, were
not climbers, the surernumeraries in
cluding nonclimbing leader. doctors
transport officers, wireless officers and
photographers.
The present party numbers seven
climbers. one fewer than it has been
on three previous occasions There
is no wireless or transport officer,
and a doctor is included because he
happens to be a climber Through
the Offices Of j. B. Gould, the political
of1cer at Gangtok. transport arrange
ments in Sikkim will be made by the
Sikkim durbar; in Tibet they will be
made by Karma Paul. Tibetan resi-
dent In Darjeeling, who has accom-
panied every Mount Everest expedition
except the first in the same capacity.
Members Of the party. Europeans and
Sherpas. will, of course, have to as
stst.
Members Of Party.
In alphabetical order. the personnel
includes, first. Peter Lloyd, who is 80,
. research chemist in the employ of
the Gas, Light and Coke Co. of Lon
don. Mr.. Lloyd is first-rate man on
rock and ice. with very good Alpine
experience. In 1886, with the British
American party, he carried load to
the high bivouac at 23,500 feet on
Nanda Devi, and proved to be very
much at home on Difficult Rock and in
severe conditions at that height.
N. E. Odell. ~, lecturer at Cam
bridge. is in the front rank of noun
taineers with long and varied expert
ence in the Alps. the Rockies, the
polar regions and the Himalayas His
efforts on Everest in 1924 in support
OF Mallory and Irvine are well known.
In 1885 he reached the top of Nanda
Devi (25.66o feet.
Capt. P. r. Oliver of Coke's Rifles,
climbed Trisul (23,400 feet) in 1888,
accompanied by Garhwali porter.
This was the second ascent. the first
being the memorable one of DR.. Long
staff and the two Brocherel brothers
In 1907. when the party went from a
camp at 1900 feet to the top and
back in one day. Capt. Oliver was
with the 1886 Everest party, and was
climbing in Garhwali with F. s.
emythe last year. 50 he has the ad-
vantage Of comparatively recent ac-
climatization. The benefits of accli-
matization are felt for long periods
afterward
Maps Are Approved.
E. E. Shipton, 80. has for his age
probably more mountaineering expe-
rience than any one else. He has
climbed In the Alps, Africa mounts
Kenya, Kilimanjaro and RuwenzorD,
and has been six times to the Hima-
iaya, on three Of these occasions as
leader On Everest, in 1888, he
reached a height of 27500 feet, led
the reconnaissance of 1885, and was
there again in 1896. Last year he led
q small party to the Karakoram
Himalaya. where they explored a large
area Of difficult glaciated country in
uninhabited regions completely des-
titute Of supplies. Their maps have
received the approval of Col c. G.
Lewis, surveyor general of India.
+. s. Smythe's exploits are well
known. He is 81. He has had great