Evening star., 1938-06-08

white sauce is usually mixed with
vegetables in the proportion of one
cup sauce to two cups vegetables. Be-
fore combining. drain the vegetables.
If the vegetable is one rich In min
eral content this juice will contain
certain valuable food materials. Some
times it is possible, as in the case
of asparagus, to substitute part of
this juice for part of the milk in
white sauce
For starchy vegetables, such as
potatoes. thin white sauce is suit
able. That's one in which one cup
Of milk is thickened with one table
spoon of -four blended with one or
two tablespoons of fat A medium
sauce with twice as much -four to
the cup of milk is the kind to serve
with succulent vegetables, such as Gel
cry or onions
FOR serving with many of the green
vegetables abundant now, hol-
landaise sauce is especially good Hol-
landaise is a rich sauce containing q
large proportion Of egg yolk and but
ter with some acid. Cooks who have
difficulty making it may be violat-
ing the rules for egg cookery or those
for combining rich fat mixtures.
Any mixture that contains much
egg is cooked over low heat, because
the protein in egg coagulates at low
temperature. In combination with an
acid. such as the lemon juice in this
sauce, the protein coagulates at an
even lower temperature. Therefore,
cook hollandaise over water. Stir con-
stantly to keep the mixture smooth
and to prevent overheating. And stop
the cooking promptly as soon as the
sauce begins to thicken.
Start the hollandaise by mixing the
lemon juice with the egg yolks. Then,
as in making mayonnaise, add the
fat gradually and stir constantly. Add
the first third Of the butter to the
egg and lemon juice. Then cook this
in double boiler-stirring constantly
until the mixture begins to thicken.
Remove from the stove, add the sec
ond third Of butter. Stir this in rap
idly, then add the final portion Of
butter. After this is blended in, add
little hot water and seasoning, and
finish cooking.
"Hollandaise made this way should
not separate either from overlooking
or from too rapid addition of the
fat.
THE cook who can make these
three sauces can probably master any
others. in the cook book But that is
only q start in saucemaking. Next
comes the seasoning to taste
THAT phrase may mean much or
little-depending on the cook
White sauce, for instance, can become
a creamy cheese sauce with little
grated cheese melted in it. A little
minced bacon. chopped parsley, green
pepper or onion juice added makes
it more interesting accompaniment
for new potatoes.
"Gravies and other sauces lend
themselves just as well to different
SeaSOnings. Dry mustard, mace. a
tiny flavor of cloves or ginger, a graf
ing of nutmeg-these are only a few
Of the materials the imaginative cook
can turn into combination OF fiavors
that is her very own. A dash of
cayenne. paprika, curry powder, celery
salt, or bit of ground cooked ham
these are more.
"Of late there has been a revival
Of interest in the use of herbs for sea-
soning. Seasoning with these, Of
course, is q subtle art, and the more
the cook uses them the more posi-
bilities she finds for them in sauces
Some suggestions are: Chopped or
ground green leaves of tarragon in
q sauce for fish or eggs; leaves and
tips of basil in white sauces and milk
gravy or in tomato sauces; chopped
leaves Of dill added to a cream sauce
for chicken; ground horseradish root
in sauces for meats; mint leaves to
flavor a sauce for lamb and chopped
chive leaves to add a delicate onion
lake flavor to nearly any sauce"