Evening star., 1938-04-24
TRAVEL IN BURMA
IS ADVENTUROUS
Trip Up Irrawaddy Gives
View of Simple and
Happy Life.
BY H. DE TERRA

BY H. DE TERRA.
MANDAI.AY.-Travel in Burma Is
still an adventure. Even in Rangoon,
the lively export harbor for teakwood,
rice and oil, nature will still provide
the unexpected. On the evening when
we boarded the train for Prone,
clouds Of green insects descended on
the city. In such numbers did they,
fall from the skies that by the time
we had paid our hotel bill, street
lights were dimmed and traffic dis
arranged. The station platform was
covered with sheet Of winged crea-
lures, many of which descended hap
PLY upon the bedding which our boy
had prepared for us in our compart-
ment
The station master assured me that
the city is attacked by such an insect
plague only once or twice year, but
my travel experience tells me that
the weather IS never so unusual as
when the stranger arrives in a place.
However, once the train had gained
speed the air was clear once more and
the ride through moonlit rice fields
proved comfortable.
Trip Began From Prone.
Prone was the start for our steamer
trip up the Irrawaddy to Mandalay.
This great stream is Burma's most
convenient traffic artery and during
the high-water season one can pro-
ceed 600 miles inland to the foot Of
the high ranges which border on
China and Tibet. In fact, after hav-
ing crisscrossed Burma by car, bullock
cart and railroad, one begins to be
grateful for this dependable traffic
system on the broad-backed IRA
waddy River. It is a treacherous
stream which shifts the navigable
channel continuously and skillful pi-
lots are necessary to chaperone the
600-ton boats which pillow the muddy
waters with large, steam-driven pad
die wheels.
In spite of their spacious decks,
these boats do not draw more than
"a feet of water, which enables the
1rrawaddy fleet to continue its service
all the year round. The yearbook
shows a record number Of $4,000
passengers for the past year, which
Is more than one-third of the total
population of Burma.
The lowlands of the Irrawaddy
with their endless rice and corn fields
hold the secret to Burma's reputation
as a prosperous land where everybody
seems to partake Of a full share of
human happiness. On this Road to
Mandalay' We enjoy the happy ex-
preston Of its gay and carefree people.
Burmese Have Most Of Boat.
The major portion of the boat was
lett to the Burmese. It was merely
an open deck where, equipped with
bedding, pots and household goods"
the natives Travelled socially, ever
smiling and smoking their big che
roots" For this is the land of in
veterate smokers where children of 8,
old toothless ladies and powder
plastered maidens sit in groups, puff
Ing their big cigars contentedly even
though these cheroots frequently are
made of only a mixture Of selected
wood shavings.
For those who can pay 40 cents the
the company provides two rice meals
a day. But more commonly the
travellers carry their own provisions
with them, dried smoked fish which
have been allowed first to go some
what bad a pot of rice, and soup.
For the tourist and European traveller
is reserved the forepart of the boat
where are six small but very clean
cabins, bathroom, and a large
glassed-in saloon" in which one may
Sit and watch the everchanging life
OF river and shore. Here also one
partakes of very lengthy meals which
appear at odd hours. Breakfast"
Tor instance. is served at IL o'clock
and consists of fish, mutton chops,
potatoes, fried CHECKED and the curry
OF the day. together with fruits and |
cheese, tea and coffee.
Life Simple and Happy.
As the streamer plows its way up
stream one looks in wonder at the
fertile land and somewhat enviously
watches the simple. happy life on
the river banks.
In the river people are bathing and
incessantly washing their clothing,
modestly and dexterously slipping the
old garment from under the new one
in a kind of sleight-of-hand. They
splash with abandon as if there were
no work ever to disturb the natural
play Of their slim, strong bodies.
Out of the dark, green foliage glis-
ten at intervals the gilded and white
washed pagoda towers, those round,
bell-shaped shrines erected In men,
ory Of some pious soul. OF pagodas
and monasteries there is never
ending variety, for Buddhism still
reigns supreme in this land unspoiled
by "civilization."
True enough, the monks mainly
benefit from this charity and in Man.
dalay alone there are 10000 of these
yellow men," Even the humblest
hamlet will honor the age-old custom
Of providing for q few monks. In
their warm, yellow robes with a bright
red umbrella over their shaven heads
and their round-bellied black begging
bowls held tightly in front of them,
they give an ever-colorful pattern to
this land Of jungle green and radiant
skies. The monks in turn spread a
rudimentary type Of learning among
the people, which is nowadays, how
ever, being gradually replaced by a
modern school system.
The landing of the steamers pro-
vides the villagers with daily amuse-
ment They stand on the shore hold
ing baskets and bundles, patiently
waiting for the boat to be towed to
the jetty. As soon as the gangplank
is fixed the exchange of passengers
takes place quietly, without that
nerve-racking chatter which you hear
on Indian railroad platforms. Even
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