Evening star., 1938-02-11

women. He is noted for sleek, sophis-
ticated silhouettes, but at his recent
opening showed bloused lines by way
OF change. He is blousing coats
jackets and dresses. He calls this a
schoolgirl" silhouette, indicating that
he considers it very youthful. 1t
might easily be compared with our
Gibson Girl silhouette.
Lucien Lelong is another friend
He was here in Washington last spring
in connection with the promotion of
one Of his delightful perfumes. His
hobby is boats and sailing. For such
sport he wears oilskins, huge wooden
sabots and a beret, and goes entirely
picturesque.
In his collection the 18th century
types predominated. He used pastels
and many color combinations. He
showed quantities OF tulle, chiffon,
organza and lace frocks which gave
a light. diaphanous quality to his
formal clothes.
Among the accessories was fea-
tured jewelry motif Of a large gold
heart hung from ring. design used
for pin or clip. There were rather
large frilly fans composed Of organza
leaves edged with feathers. Too bad
we won't have these ready for st.
Valentines day
The general daytime silhouette that
he is showing is slim. but supple, with
front fullness sometimes used. The
average length for daytime costumes il
IS inches from the floor. The waist
line is at the top Of the hips; shoulders
are slightly padded for tailored types;
sleeves are simple. Many boleros are
in this collection Coats are fitted
redineotes or straight, with loose back
and belted front.
CAPT. MOLYNEUX is another
name to conjure with among the
coutouriers. He is a gentleman who
has done such 4 variety Of things and
done them all SO well, from winning
the British military cross, and financ-
ing a swanky night club in Paris. to
winning top score for sales Of his
models to American buyers for several
seasons. He has a pet wire-haired ter
rier named Bobby" and enjoys re-
laxing at his place on the Riviera
when he has time.
While 50 many Of his competitors
have been influenced by 18th century
costumes, Molyneux has preferred to
use 10Th century inspirations. From
the Second Empire period he gives us
delightfully."- picturesque crinolines in
stiff satins. grosgrain-failles or sheer
fabrics, lace shawls, long tulle scarfs
and saucy hats.
OF particular interest are the re-
curing yellows throughout the collec-
tion-yellovs ranging from chamois to
straw tones. We shall be seeing 4 lot
Of them later and will know them As
the Molyneux yellows
Jeanne Lanvin endorses q lowered
waistline with accented hips. Ribbon
bands are placed around the hips with
belt just above the hip bone. She
features hyacinth blue with cerise red.
Vionnet emphasizes an Empire sill
houette in evening gowns. These are
notable in white or orchid chiffon. or
in soft crepes with finely plsated
skirts and tiny corsages with pintuck-
ing. Some OF the gowns have circular
skirts and crystal beaded corsages with
long chiffon capes or short pleated
capelets.
Throughout the collections lace is
mentioned again and again. Above
are shown two particularly lovely lace
gowns, both of them in the double
duty class, one with 4 dainty pleated
cape and the other with a long sleeved
bolero jacket These two frocks are
ideal for cruise nights or for town
wear Both have wide. graceful skirts
and interesting corsages when the top
pers are removed. Many lovely lace
gowns are just coming in to the local
shops and are a wonderful investment
in all season chic.