Evening star., 1937-10-30
BY J. w. WELLINGTON.

BY j. w. WELLINGTON.
~ UCCESSIVE bloom throughout
the growing season-that is one
of the major problems of the
gardener. Most any one can
get abundant flowers in May and
early June, but from there on until
the dshlias in September it is a prob
lem to have beautiful garden.
Ivan N Anderson, in talk before
the Takoma Horticultural Club on
Monday evening, demonstrated the
possibility of obtaining a continuity
OF bloom, but admitted the midSum-
n1er season presents great difficulty,
particularly if drought intervenes.
Mr.. Anderson advised the use of some
of the easier grown ANIMALS, such as
Elnnia and petunia, to tide over this
period. He also urged the use of the
day lilies (Hemerocallis) and the plan
tation lilies (Hosta). With the new
varieties of day lilies it is possible to
have bloom from June until Septem-
Der.
Among interesting points brought
out by Mr. Anderson were the fact
that pansies do much better if set
out in late autumn than in spring.
BY the time the spring planted pan
sizes become established hot weather
begins to limit their growth sadly.
Petunias. to be kept at their best,
should be clipped back TO keep the
plants from becoming Sprawly and
unsightly. The hardy garden pinks
(DianthuS) need severe cutting back
after blooming in order to prevent
weak, Spindly growth and encourage
the development of strong new flower
land must be permitted to mature
their foliage if one wishes them to
persist from year to year. This may
mean the cutting of the intervening
grass with shears for a time or two,
but otherwise the bulbs will disappear
quickly. Mr.. Anderson spoke highly
of the perennial phloX as a summer
flower and if one we're to follow his
suggestions. based on~actual expert
ences in his nursery and gardens
continuous bloom might well become
an sctuality rather than an ideal
Potted Bulbs.
zach year the commercial florists
pot thousands of bulbs for win
ter forcing. The procedure is not at
all difficult. but there are certain
fundamental facts underlying success.
Tulips and the usual outdoor mar
cissus must be subjected to low tenn
perature after potting in order to OBJ
tain root growth capable of sending
up good flowers. This cooling may
be accomplished in the idle hotbed.
covering the potted bulbs with a layer
Of soil or leaves. In this cool en-
vlronment the bulbs behave as they
would in the open garden. that is,
grow strong root system and make
little top growth. When this growth
is made the pots may be brought into
the warm cellar and brought along
slowly. Not until the flower stalks
are we'll formed should the plants be
brought into the living rooms for life
of the blooms is necessarily short in
the warm home.
AS rule, bulb pans are used for pot
ting bulbs. These are essentially low
broad plant pots, just deep enough to
permit covering of the bulb. One may
use bulb fiber for filling the bulb pan
or may even use ordinary garden soil
The bulb fiber has the advantage of
being fertilized with adequate nutri-
ents and it is rather difficult to add
fertilizer to a small amount of garden
soil without OVERRIDING the job.
Hyacintls and certain forms of mar
cissus, such as the paper white and
Chinese sacred lily, may be forced
without preliminary cold treatment
Every one has seen these bulbs growing
In shallow dishes with coarse pebbles
serving as a root supporting medium.
Even in this case one will have better
results If the bulbs are brought along
slowly in cool room. A low temper
stilre permits root development and
slows top development until the roots
are adequate. Hyacinths are sometimes
grown in individual vases so filled with
water that the base of the bulb is in
eontact with moisture
With tulips. hyacinths and narcissus
potted and plunged in soil or leaves out
OF doors, it is possible to bring in
pot every 10 days or so and have fow-