The Washington times., 1937-03-20

Luehrinp and Mr.. Frank Morse
brought so many letters from
readers usually fed on "Now's"
political and social gossip that ]
am about to try a once-a-week
piece about foreign food as it is
cooked in various embassies and
legations in Washington.
For, If you are lucky, you may
travel around the world at the
dinner tables in the Capital.
In the big white embassies and
legations where liveried footmen
speak with the accent Of foreign
countries as they usher you into
tapestry-hung drawing rooms, you
may study happily and without
the fatigue of touring, the customs
and tastes Of the people Of both
hemisphereS.
Much Of the personality Of the
home-and of the nation-iS in its
kitchen. In the diplomatic kitchens
Of Washington national traditions
express themselves in Simmering
sauces, in the thickening Of soups
and in the flavor of sweets.
However far from home ennis
saries Of foreign Presidents and
Kings may be, in the quiet of fam
lily life they hold to the cooking
and eating habits Of their own
people.
For big official and State din
ners and luncheons where the
guest of honor is an important
diplomat or a member of the Pres
ident's Cabinet, where 40 or so
guests proceed according to rank
into splendid, formal dinin g
rooms, the food is international.
Seldom is it typical of any coun-
try. The dishes and wines might
be served by any proud menage
for formal entertaining - any
where. Perhaps, now and then, a
native soup or dessert may appear
on the menu written in French on
small cards that rest on silver
holders between each two guests.
But often in Washington, a
diplomat and his lady ask a few
American friends to eat and drink
with them informally. Then
Heaven be praised - they serve
the delicacies of their own coun-
try. The sort of food they would
prepare if they were entertaining
in their own homes in Paris,
Tokyo, Vienna, Berlin. Moscow, or
maybe Bangkok.
# you are fortunate enough to
be included In such friendly
groups, you discover sympathetic
qualities in your host and hostess
that you hadn't suspected lay be-
hind their official manner.
Bacchus and Ceres give you
their blessings. Expectantly and
cheerfully you dine your way
across the continent in the Capital
on the Potomac.
Many happy experiences with
diplomatic hospitality Of the
friendly informal sort have proved
to me that the preparing and serv-
ing of food in Europe and Asia and
South America differ in certain
special ways from our own &C
cepted routine.
In most of the civilized countries
of the world, except in the United
States, cooking is a rite and an art.
In Germany, for instance, a chef
must go to a cooking school for
three years before he can qualify
as professional. The Gordon Bleu
of the French chef represents a
triumph over the inanimate per-
versity Of food and fire.
Only in the United States and
England are the ingredients OF a
meal thrown together in a hap
hazard way or tako1 out Of a can.
In Europe soups are slow and
painstaking creations.
Sauces are seasoned fearfully by
q cook who suffers meanwhile the
anxiety of a painter mixing his
colors. Broiling fish requires sharp
eyes and complete attention with
no time out for a telephone con-
versation about last nights party.
Except in the United States and
rarely in England, cocktails are
seldom served before dinner. Aus
tria likes sherry before eating.
Vermouth is Italy's choice. All
foreign hostesses, with pride in
their cuisine, prefer that guests
shall reach the dining-room with
palates unnumbed by alcohol.
Only in this country is bread
offered hot. Nowhere else in the
world have the vegetables the ex-
ceIlent variety and quality they
have in the United States. Only
here are salads ever considered a
special course. In some countries
as in France and Germany they
are served on small side dishes
with the meat course. On most
foreign tables they never appear
at all.
Sauerkraut has great popularity
with all classes in Austria, Ger
many, Russia, and in Central Eu-
rope. With the exception, water
seldom appears upon European ta-
bles except to dilute wines. There
it is warm and grudgingly given.
Next Saturday. French menu
with recipes.