Evening star., 1936-06-13
Fascinating Collection of
Old Cook Books Given
To Library of Congress
Rare Incunabula Included; Later Books
Written by Ladies and Gentlemen
in Seventeenth Century.

A TYPICAL writer Of this kind Of
cook book was Kenelm Digby a
gentleman of varied activities. who
found time between his career as
diplomat, sailor, astrologer, physician,
courtier and ladies' man to write a
work entitled THE Closet of the
Eminently Learned Sir Kenelm Dig
by, in Which Is Discovered Several
Ways for Making of Megethlin,
Cherry Wine, Etc. Together With
Excellent Directions for Cookery"
There was also a chapter on medi-
cine, with recipes for IAN exceeding
fine pill used for the gout," and "a
delicate stove to sweat in" for cook
ing and medicine went hand in hand
in those days, and every housewife
was supposed to have a good working
knowledge of both. Sir Kenelm Is
specific in mentioning the titled per
sonages who favor his recipes. If he
gives Lady Hungerford's recipe for
meath, he explains that she sent him
word that "she now useth (and hketh
better a second decoction Of herbs"
Another meath is recommended be-
cause a burgomaster of Antwerp
drank it "at meals and at all times
even for pledging Of healths. AM
though he was of an extraordinary
vigor every way, had always a great
appetite and good digestion, and yet
was not fat"
The success of these books written
by amateurs seems to have driven the
professional cooks Of England into
authorship, for several works by the
master cooks of the day began to ap-
pear at this time. One. by Robert
May, was published in 1860. The title
page speaks for the book, The Accom-
phSht Cook, or the Art and Mystery
of Cookery, wherein the whole art
is revealed in a more easy and per-
feet method, than hath been pub
lisht in any language. Expert and
ready waves for the dressing OF all
sorts of flesh. fowl and fish; the
raising of pastes, the best directions
for all manner of kickShaws and the
most poinant sauces, with the terms
of carving and serving. An exact
account of all dishes of the season,
with other a la mode curiosities. To-
gether with lively Illustrations. APP
proved by the fifty years experience
and industry of Robert May, in his
attendance on several persons OF
honour"
POBERT MAY does not seem to
~ have been very modest, but then.
what good cook ever was? There was
a saving in that day that "a modest
master cook must be looked on as
contradiction in nature"
Of the English cook books OF the
eighteenth century, the greatest prize
is the first edition of the famous book
by Mrs. Hannah Glasse, THE Art OF
Cookery Made Plain and Easy; Which
Far Exceeds Anything Of the Kind
Ever Yet Published" This monu-
mental work, which starts with
chapter on roasting and boiling and
winds up with a certain cure for the
bite of a mad dog, was first issued in
I747, The author was a dressmaker,
with a shop near Covent Garden In
London. The work went into edition
after edition (there is one which was
issued in Alexandria. Va, in 1605)
and had one of the greatest sales of
any book of its day. Legends grew
up around it, for example, the one
about the recipe for cooking hare.
which was supposed to start of:
First catch you hare" This saying
became famous. Actually, what Mrs.
Glasse said was: First case your
hare; that is. dress it." But it's
good story, all the same.
This is the first in series Of two
articles on old cookery books. The
second will appear shortly.