Evening star., 1936-11-04
Sketched in q washington shop.

Particularly lovely was the gown
of white ribbed taffeta- back velvet
derived from the gown first worn by
Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant. 1t had yoke
of white chiffon appnqued with velvet
flowers, from which fell a circular
rufle. giving a broad. offshoulder eff
feet. Silver ribbons accented the
bodice front and the waistline. The
skirt was extremely voluminous.
Inspired by Dolly Madison's gown
was a rich. red stiff velvet, with
yoke and short sleeves of hand
crocheted gold mesh. worn with a
matching cap of mesh. Extra back
fullness was pleated on like hustle.
r xx
VELVET is enjoying great popu-
v larity all through the mode, but
we also find a number of other ma
terials of outstanding Importance.
Take, for instance, upholstery damask
with so much body that it will almost
stand alone, and such look of regal
splendor that we Immediately asso-
ciate 1t with court costumes of days
gone by. Even the softly blended colors
of some of these materials strike a
note of strong contrast to our vivid
modernism.
Two Of these frocks are shown
above. The one at the left is called
Josephine" and is typical of the
charm Of this sort of gown. The
square neck, with the touches of
kolinsky outlining the shoulders; the
little puff sleeves, the high waistline
and slight fullness over the bust; the
long sweeping line of the skirt that
falls in stately folds at the back are
particularly appealing in this satin
damask of soft coronation gold. With
it are worn gold kid slippers, gold
kid bag and a green kerchief from
q rhinestone bracelet. A large green
silk and velvet flower posed at the
front of the head adds another accent
Of color.
The sister frock in antique blue
damask has deep decolletage front
and back. with tiny shoulder straps.
The peplum back is its distinguishing
feature and is the modern version of
the hustle. This gown may also be
worn with gold accessories or COM
bined with coronation red.
In the background is one Of the
interesting evening wraps of the sea-
son that carries out the same regal
idea. Closely fitted into the waist,
the skirt reaches the floor and is
longer at the back. The collar is
stripped with real ermine and the
Mary Stuart sleeves are the final
picturesque touch. It is fashioned Of
heavy Lyons-type velvet, warmly in
terlined and is q distinctly coronation
type Of wrap.
***
RUT these are only two Of so many
lovely evening dresses that we
have been looking at. There's that
versatile double-duty frock of black
crepe with the bright lapels Of i'm
ported tapestry lame, q Ia Schia-
parelli and . matching band at
the bottom Of the skirt, particularly
good when the background OF the
lapels is Chinese blue, although 1t
is also done in green and in white.
Underneath is q formal black gown
with Vionnet twisted and draped
bodice top.
Sequins contribute generously
toward the brilliance Of life after
dark. They are partial to black net
jackets worn over black crepe frocks;
they are used In solid banding along
shoulders and around armholes and
peplums on double duty crepes. In
deep dusty rose they form an en-
tire jacket that is worn over rich,
wine red crepe making m unusually
pleasing combination.
For information concerning items
mentioned In this column. cali Ma
tional 5000, Extension 395. between
10 and Il am.