Evening star., 1936-05-28
BY r. S. SMYTHE,

,.
Member of the 1895 British Mount Everest
Expedition.
BASE CAMP, MOUNT EVEREST,
Tibet, May IL (by airmail via Lon
dom .-Sybarites, not "he-men," are
most likely to succeed in climbing
Mount Everest BY 'sybarites" mean
men who assess comfort as something
desirable and who are well fed and
warmly clothed and housed, and by
"he-men" those who affect an in
difference in these matters to the
detriment of their strength and
stamina; such cannot overcome the
trying conditions imposed by the high
est of mountains.
1t has been said that if climbers
could reside at a ritz hotel on the
north col before attempting to reach
the summit, their task would be great
" simplifed. Failing such luxurious
amenity, no effort must be spared to
maintain the party from civilization to
summit in the greatest possible COM
fort, both externally and internally.
In this respect, as in some other re-
spects, 1t is true to say that Everest Is
climbed in London, for it Is only as
the result of much forethought that
men can be got into position high
enough on the mountain and fit
enough to make the effort Of climbing
the last 1900 feet.
Food Is Problem.
As regards food. the problem is not
1F
tanning the essential vitaminS and
calories of heat. Oxygen lack at high
attitudes has pernicious effect on the
whole system, physical and mental,
and by willing the appetite soon re-
duces the climber to the dimensions OF
q living skeleton" AcclimatiZation
and deterioration are now time
honored terms in connection with the
Everest problem.
A mans heart, lungs and blood con-
tinue to adapt themselves to the
oxygen lack. but at the same time
this oxygen lack reduces his flesh and
substance, rendering him more and
more susceptible to fatigue and cold.
Stave off this deterioration. If only for
a time, while acclimatization proceeds,
and the chances of climbing Everest
are enormously increased.
We have transported some 460 boxes
containing a net weight of nearly 5
tons of food in containers varying from
timed hams weighing II pounds to
"picnic" tins of condensed milk weigh
ing 4 ounces, intended for the highest
camps. The food supply has to allow
not only for the elasticity Of the stom-
achs it benefits but also for the lido
syncrasies of those stomachs and also
for such fresh food as has been pro-
durable during the march across Tibet
to the base camp.
Pickles and Eggs Stir Hunger.
"Pickles!" Wyn Harris had walled at
21.0O0 feet in 1898. why can't have
more pickles? "Eggsl" Eric Shipton
hoarsely declaimed at 27400 feet. "Oh
for a few dozen eggs!" Therefore,
pickles and eggs-3.900 of the latter.
Not, 1t may be mentioned, all for Ship
ton.
Above the base camp climbers will
do most of their own cooking. We
know from experience the foods most
likely to tickle the palates of climbers
in varying stages Of acclimatization
and deterioration when tastes and ap-
petites are semi-atrophied by oxygen
lack and discomfort-foods that slip
easily down sore throats at $4,000 feet,
that need no preparation other than
heating for a more or less unspecified
period, that are rich in warming carbo-
hydrates.
Broadly speaking. the scheme is SIM
pie enough. 1t allows for plenty of
good food on the march, even better
food on the glacier. and specially pala-
table and easily assimilated foods at
the high camps. An element OF sur
prise is of vital Importance. Never
should meals be allowed to sink to
dead level of sameness.
Army rations," very occasionally,
may do for the march preferably the
return march,, but chicken breasts,
asparagus tips, Swiss black cherry jam,
stuffed olives and vintage" sardines
(some gourmets LAY down" sardines
like wine) are the sort of foods likely
to assist, in the assimilation of the
more solid and numerous calories and
Ntan1ins which the scientists assure us
must on no account be neglected If
Everest is to be climbed.
Varied Transportation for Eggs.
Prior to leaving England friends i'm
plored us to see that our 5000 eggs
were man-carried. This has not been
possible, and yaks, mules and donkeys