The Waterbury Democrat., 1936-08-29
Paris GIamOr Mode For Fall Ends Era Of InfOrmality
Daytime As We'll As Evening Wear Star RigeMr
BY RogETTE HARdRovE NRA Service Stan Writer

PariS.-Tho days when . smart wardrobe consisted entirely of straight, untrImned little ShIrt- waist dresses, . plain tailored suit and iIlannigh blouSeB to wear with it are dead and gone. This b c season of glannor clothes. Eyerys thing hes . dresgy, ultra feminine air about 1t.
 The dressy afternoon frock b again in vogue. Satin, heavy crepes and veIvetg of oil kinds are favored Q good deal, but silky, chiRon.weight broadcloth b newer. Important houses like Marcel Rochas, Chanel and Patou show simple little dress eg, cut on the lines of Q sports frock, in fine gold and silver lame for the cocktail hour.
 Black definitely dominates for formal daytime wear, and red b the newest contrast note. Scarlet, Chis nese, soudanese (Lanvir) and ger. aniun1 reds ifnpart . good deal ot zest to both dull and shiny blacks. Touches of palest blue, myrtle green and mauviSh pink are fashionable, too.
 BIOuses Supply Contrast
 While the majority of suits depend on blouses to supply contrast a great many of them have matching bIouses in iustrous fabrics like satin or silk ottoman.
 Fur Is used laviShly on coats and suits. Immense fur collars in silver fox, AgtFakhan, and lynx have res placed the denuded necklineS Of last winter, On very formal models the entire back panel k in fur-aStraks han, seal or broadtail-soEnetiIneS with Sleveeg also made Of fur, or high fur cuffs. Shawl collars are popular, SO gre the newer triangular ones which give c very bread look to the top front of the coat
 An entire silver fox, forming an elongated godet, with the head placed ct the waistline, trims the two edges of many afternoon coats and gives an apron.like effect. Thw N also done in flat fur. Then there are abbreviated boleroS of bushy fox worn over afternoon wraps, c style which only the SlifnnleSt of Wo' men can wear successfully.
 Every collection has at least one broadcloth suit cut on the lines oi the masculine cutawGy or formal evening coat, with or without fur trimming. The Patou collection has a cocktail suit with Q norfolk jacket, Q box.plcated skirt, c shirt" waist in lame and 6 realistic rose embroidered on the left side.
 GOred Skirt Revived
 ReyiyaIg include the old umbrella Ekirt. the gored skirt PiguOt and Pato,i) and the cheT1is0 dress (Mo' iyneux), Tn some houses the fulncsS k concentrated ct the back, leaving the front plain, This applies to day and evening skirts. Then again there are great number of flowing skirts with fullness evenly dwtrlp' uted oil around the figure, contrast cd with skirts which are So SKID. tight that the inannequli1S would nogitiyely "hobbie" were it not for c practical suit i1 front or on one Side, sometimes discloging the knee: Ardanse shows . skirt made ID or 1 i've panels, oil slit about seven inch. es up, topped by z haTod tiinlc, ai1d glic lines these panels with 2 coi1- tragting satin or with soft brown suede, as In . very striking gold lame dinner dreSs.
 Molyneux has several evening sIl' houettes but the slim, straight, u1s beIted line B the newest on some modciS Q loose cord in Jlk or wcol, complete with taSsels, indicates tne Waistjine, He does this tlifoughout his daytime and evening things. HH version of the still popular tusic " a straight one, over . Blinky skEV which acquires fulinesS at the ens Kieg. with or without belt. lt " guaranteed to add inches to the sn' houette. Then agai1 he shows gev. V. eraI robes.de.styie type Of dresScS with the 1uji skirt attached 10