The Waterbury Democrat., 1936-09-26
Smartly Suited For Early Fall Sports Events
Paris FavOrs Checks, Plaids And New
 Square Silhouette
BY RosETTE HARGRovE NEA Service Staff Correspondent

NEA Service Staff Correspondent
 Paris.-The new sport ensembles are decidedly gay and comfortable. The the-minute silhouette is square. No questio nof streamlining here. Topcoats, usually three-quar- ters or seven-lengthS in lentgh, are inclined to be excessively full, swing ing out about the figure from yoke back and front, giving a broad-as- long effect that is emphasized by low, or heelless shoes and boots.
 Often these coats are shown over a two-piece suit with the packet hip-length, semi-fitted and fasten- ing rather high to carry out the new raised waistline effect. Skirts are straight and slim, with kick-pleats at the front, back, or both for great CT walking comfort.
 Culotte skirts are seen rarely probably because they have become altogether too popular. The few noted in the collectoins are more like wrap-over skirts. In any case they are confined to the active sports type of suit for shooting, golf or bicycling and will not be seen elsewhere.
 Pleats Are "In" Again
 The all-around pleated skirt is making bid for favor. MolyneuX uses a good deal of pleat:ng and new form of creasing in the all- around effect or only at the back of the skirt. A charming red and navy pleated tartan swirt has a snug fitetd packet of navy blue. Another attractive ensemble shows Seven- cights topcoat,swinging from the shoulders but moderately wide, over 8 pleated swirt of brown, beige and brick checked wool fabric. This is topped by 8 jumper blouse of fine brown jersey. A scarf of the same fabric of the skirt and brown felt hat trimmed with brick-colored grosgrain complete an ensemble suitable for morning in town as well as country wear.
 Lucien Lelong favors monotone tWO~p1CCC OuAOO uAANB4 tOpIOdoO O1 bold check or tartan tweed. A me- dium weight rust brown suit with slim skirt, double-breasted belted jacket with white pique collar and reverS and the new cutaway front goes with comfortable brown and beige knee-length coat with stand up collar.
 Chanel often combines jersey , with plain fabric. for a dress and | coat ensemble suitable fo.' the coun- try and travelling. For the coat, he | favors a heavy, lainage, something | like the pilot cloth used for mems overcoatS.
 Godets for Fullness
 The woman who can afford to wear extremes of fashion will find Alix's collection exactly suited to her taste. She has a sports en- semble composed of a Seven-eightS coat of a huge navy and white check over a navy blue jersey dress. The coat has two immense godets back and front and the dress has great deal of the fullnesS 1nassed at the front. With this are worn leel-leSS, Robin Hood suede boots in navy blue and 8 wide-brimmed "bracado" felt.
 Robert Piquet also has striking color combinations to offer in his spectator sports clothes. A long, flared topcoat of navy blue pilot cloth is lined with Etruscan red lainage. This is worn over dress, the front of which is navy and the entire back Etruscan red, with the side seams laced in vivid green wool from underarm to en. A navy hat, trimmed with the red, and red gloves complete this unusual outfit.
 Coats Vary in Length
 Piquet favors bold checks and tar tans for simple dresses worn under long or three-quarters redingote coats.
 Blackberry and deep bishops purple, dark green rust red and a new range of browns are the newest colors for sports clothes. Dark grey and burned coffee-Vera Borea's | color for the coming Season-are also good, and vivid tweeds in checks, tartans or flecked designs | are the latest for topcoats. A few have touches of fur at the collar, but the majority are made with necklines buttoning close to the front or lapels that can be fas- tened across the frotn for protection.
 Scarfs are still seen, but, as near ly all blouses have high necklines, their role in one of adornment | rather than necessity. Molyneux finishes off the neck1ines of many of | his sports dresses with thick wool ropes complete with tassei.