The Waterbury Democrat., 1935-06-19
A New Yorker
 In Europe
By PAUL HARRISON

Paris, June 19-The town has changed. but 1t isn't as though the grand old places had grown modern and cheap, or the hot spots had cooled. There just aren't so many of them.
 For uppity gourmets there is still Larue's, all white and gold panels, and mirrors to catch the colors of liqueurs flaming on the crepes Suzette. And Foyot's. most expensive restaurant in Paris, and with the best cellar-because it's patronized by senators from the Luxembourg Palace across the way.
 But voisin's Is closed. When the Germans were almost at the gates of Paris during the World War, the Kaiser planned to have Christi mas dinner at Voisin's, and there was gala party when he didn't show up. Another famous Christi mas dinner was held there in 1870, on the ninety-ninth day of the siege, when famine gripped the city. The menu card on that occasion listed roast camel, stuff- ed donkey's' head, and baked rats. Dining Maxim.
 .Ciro's is closed, too--Ciro's. where only . few years ago you had to book a table days In ad- vance in order to get in at all So is Montagnes, which was mod estly billed, "Montagne, Traiteur," meaning simply. "eatin g-house keeper" So famous a chef was he. however. that the Legion of Honor was awarded him for his skill in cooking.
 They still play chess at the Cafe de la Regence. Voltaire played there, and Rousseau. and later Na- poleon, and Victor Hugo after that. Today it is sort of official head. quarters for masters of the game .. Do you remember farce call ed "The Girl From Maxim's'? We'll, I don't either, but there was one 90 years ago. However, do remember song in The Merry Widow"-"I'm Going to Maxim's." And people are still going there. iD droves. tsMrU
 Decorations of the sos. includ- ing the red plush. gilt gewgaws and murals of daring nymphs. are stlll in evidence. But It's reputa- ton as a hot spot is languishins, Maxim's is just good restaurant now, no longer specializing in wild outs.
 Tanks Arc Gone. V
 The Left Bank isn't so gay any more. Montparnasse misses It's American artists and writers and students, the playboys, payboys and chislers. Go to the Dome and what do you find Yoh find crowd of Germans and Spaniards, Argen- ties and Orientals, Russians and Italians, and, for all know, few French. At least there are lots ot French harpies.
 You might find a few dispirited American newspaperment around the corner at the shabby Dingo Bar. There, too, you'll find Noma Davis, a Negro girl. pouring all her nostalgia for Harlem into the old blues tones The Coupole. near the Dome, is doing all right with a noisy crowd and garish dec- orations strongly reminiscent of Forty-second street .. The Select has gained a patronage largely con- sisting of eliminate men.
 Across the street, on this one- time hub of Bohemia, many tables are empty at the Rotonde. Business there never has been the same since the management tossed out a young woman whom Charlie Chap lin had invited to join his party for drink. An observant clientele, aghast at this affront. set down it's glass and walked out in body.
 Gay Paree.
 For variety of reasons the Paris night-club situation is sight ly depressing-a least for anyone only a few weeks removed from Broadway. French girls can neither dance nor sing. And French or- chestras can't play modern music. Harsh words, but true. The proof is in the extravagant billings ac- corded all foreign performers. The government, however, has set a quota limit on incoming entertain CTS to protect its hot-cha industries. And American acts are having per- init trouble.
 Joe zellrs old place has become Chez les Nudists--but is still a sucker trap--while zelli tries his uncertain luck on Broadway. Chez les Nudists is nude, all right, but its chorus doesn't outstrlp that of the Alcazar. which has the most eye-flliing show in town, Then there's Eve. and the Bal TabarIn and half dozen other places mors or less llbidinous and monotonous'