Evening star., 1935-02-17

uan emperor OF Byzantium, saw his empire
crumbling, until in 1853 the deluge came
knowing his city was lost and he about to
die, he came into the imperial church To take
the sacrament He looked up at the huge
mosaic figures upon the ceiling of the marvellous
dome-Christ and the Virgin, the saints and
the apostles. He knew they were soon to be
hung from the thrones which they had graced
you years He kissed the great gold cross
that hung suspended from the cupola. He
knew that before the day was done a crescent
would shine in its place.
And so 1t came to pass. Over the bodies Of
10000 Christian dead, Sultan Mohammed rode
into the basca. The interior was packed
with terrified citizens praying for deverance.
but deliverance did come. Mohammed
mounted to the silver altar, knelt toward Mecca
and gave thanks to Allah for the victory
Every one supposed the sultan would destroy
the basilca at once, as being the throne the
symbol, Of the Christian religion he abhorred.
But TIE sultan did no such senseless thing.
He saw that the glorious church might be Just
as much the pride of his city as it had been
Of Constantine'S-n 1t were turned into q
mosque.
And so turned into mosque it was The
sultan stripped 1t of every Christian symbol
plastered over the mosaics Of Christ removed
the altars and the crosses. He spread verses
from the Koran across the ceiling from which
the saints had looked down. He erected nina
retS from whose balconies the muezzins might
call Moslem Byzantium to prayer He had
found Santa Sophia the greatest church in
Chrislendom. He renamed it Aya Sophia, and
turned 1t into the greatest mosque in all the
MoSlem world-and no man has been able to
dislodge him from that day to this
\h/ITH the historical background in mind
I fiSst reached Constantinople in 1919,
during the month Of Ramadan and, as have
said, hurried to behold the world famous
building. I was disappointed at first glance.
1t scorns all outward grace, relying on its
enormous size and strength to capture ones
eye. Instead Of statues and lacelike stones,
massive buttreSSeS ornament itS heavy walls.
Even the four minarets added by Moslem
conquerors, rising above the granite mountain,
are too incongrlous to lend much charm. In
fact, from the outside, Santa Sophia is rather
commonplace. One might mistake it for fort.
But oh-the inside And during the month
Of Ramadan!
The World Wal, which at that time had
been over only year. had been a blow to
the power and prestige Of all religious order
III Constantinople Even So this special month
Of prayer and fasting was at hand and as
at our own Christmas and Easter seasons,
thousands of worshipers who at other times
never attended services were pouring into the
Great Mosque
And on the night Of power, the climax Of
Ramadan, I followed the crowd through the
bronze doors and from the balcony beheld
sight that might have rivaled Justinian's own
dedication service. For even JuStinian with
all his curtains OF pearls, silver affairs and Or
chestras and choir, did not have the blaze Of
countless electric lights which on this particular
night made the polished marble walls of the
mosque dazzlmgly bright and beautiful.
The acres Of floor space below were densely
packed with worshipers so Dense in fact, that
they could not kneel, but had to stand, arms
held up to their faces and bow toward Mecca
in rhythmical, rustling unison. One of the
great officials of the mosque led this vast throng
of 10000 faithful and chanted forth his prayers
to Allah prayers repeated by the congregation
Each response became a low roar Of 20 600
voices that echoed and re-echoed across the
immense vaults above.
Santa Sophia had sheltered 1882 years Of
such spectacles as this. But doubt if any
single service whether Christian or Moslem,
whether Justinians or Mohammed's was ever
more magnificent or more moving than that
night of power.
Twelve years passed before came again to
1stanbul. And what changes found The
clergy had been completely dethroned and the
caliph the M0slem pope, driven from Office.
Though outwardly unchanged found Aya
Sophia almost congregatonleSs. Nevertheless,
I went back again to the hewn-st mountain
to pay my respects
Once more it was evening-wth a Turkish
crescent moon in the sky. had travelled long
and hard that day and deserved night of rest,
but chose not to take it-not with the moon
light shining through the windows of the most
ancient and most storied church in the world.
On such night as this what might one no. see
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