The Bismarck tribune., 1935-03-27
More Luxurious Fabrics and
Wealth Of Detail Secure
New Romantic Effect
BY ROSETTE HARGROVE
fAY6SA S>~-.4>- CA-RA

0y NOSEX i = 1AnONOVE
(NEA Service Staff Correspondent
Paris-(by cable)-In the eagerly
awaited showing Of the spring collec-
tions just revealed to the avid FASH
ion world, the Paris couturiers with
their scissors and needles have work.
ed q magic that transforms even the
veriest Cinderella into grand lady
whose clothes bear the stamp Of being
to the manor born.
In the few hours required for the
first parade Of creations, the design
ers swept into oblivion the starkly
modern silhouette. There stands in
its place an ultra romantic silhou-
cite. with soft feminine lines softly
gathered into billowing folds.
AS model after model paraded back
and forth between rows Of spectators
In the crowded salons, one got the
general impression that fabrics are
more luxurious, indicating q spirit Of
optimism, and that youthfulness
combined with q wealth of fine de-
tail work Is an outstanding feature.
Two new daytime silhouettes are
stressed. One Is q variation Of the
streamlined. It Is more loosely fit
ted-flows about the figure instead
of hugging it.
Gcred Skirts Aid Effects
The other emphasizes full sleeves,
dropped shoulder effects and gored
skirts.
Formal evening gowns are definite
ly picturesque. The majority have
billowing skirts with fullness injected
by means of shocking rather than
godets. Some, of course, are still
straight. However, they are a little
less form-fitting.
Dressmaker suits and classical tai
lor-mades, fashioned from novelty
woolens, linens, heavy silks. crepes.
satinS and taffeta, are for all hours
of the day and suitable for every type
of figure. These. think. indicate a
return to saner dressing and living.
Prints are important, of course,
particularly for afternoon. The most
striking have modernistic. floral, bird,
flag and stellar designs on both dark
and light grounds. They're topped
by long or three-quarters coats In
bright colorS
B0dices Blouse
WaiStlines are unchanged, but belts
are much wider. BodiceS blouse in
front and back. Many are draped and
pleated at the front.
The sloped or narrowized shoulder
line Is new. To go with it. there
are leg-o'-mutton. elbow-length and
bell-shaped sleeves.
Daytime skirts are trifle longer,
except in the House of Chanel Here
a good many are IL to IA inches from
the floor. When not straight and
plain, some of the evening models
have trains The newest evening
Skirt, however, is short in front, long
in back, allowing the ankles to show.
incidentally. high necklines are aban-
doned IN favor of rounded and stra-
pless decolletes, often trimmed with
crisp pique or organdy flowers. All
necklines, whether for day or eve
ming, are definitely lower
New color combinations are partic-
ularly handsome. Many ensembles
combine three, and even four. shades.
Fur Is used in profusion on sleeves
of formal afternoon coats. Also on
evening jackets and capes which often
are made of velvet, stiff cellophane
silk. linen or pique.
The ultta-feminine note Is partic-
ularly stressed by rich, colorful taf-
fetas for wear during all hours Of
the day and night. There is an abun-
dance of lace, tulle and crisp organdy
in flower shades, including lilac. rose,
lavender and anemones. for evening.
Vivid Contrasts Shown
Black. blue and white trimmed
with vivid green's and reds are feat
ured extensively. The newcomer in
the field Is gray, varying from pale
shades Of dove-gray to all the ele-
phant shades.
Novelties are numerous, particularly
as far as belts are concerned. Wide,
corded leather ones vie with linoleum
types. Both are fastened with clasped
hands, musical bars. Tyres, telephone
dials and elephant heads.
ButtonS-also in the novelty cate
gory-are cut to look like miniature
flowers. June bugs and crusaders
shields. Many are made from pearl,
raffia. straw, rhinoceros horns and
celluloid.
Floral corsages. including poinset-
tias, tulips in glorious shades. ane-
mones, lilies and sweet williams, trim
afternoon and evening creations.
BlouseS In red, brown, black, white.
powder blue. yellow and pink supply
the note Of contrast SO necessary to
one who goes in for suits. Chanel
features sun-back types.
Ardanse startled everyone with pa
per material collars and cuffs in nur-
sery cutouts and with hairnet lace
evening gowns that measure SO yards
around the hemlines.
Lucille Paray shows chiffon evening
coats over flowing taffeta gowns. Lee
Long masses fullness at the back for
evening, leaving the front straight.
His capes and sleeves are fluug-back.
Rouff Adapts Grecian
Maggy Rouff has pastel afternoon
gowns with gored fronts and straight
backs and her entire collection IS de-
finitely Grecian. Vionnet leaves the
shoulder line very slim, but puts huge
bows and revers above waistlines to
emphasize the top Of the silhouette.
Molyneaux eliminates bias cuts and
introduces shirrings and shocking
with fullness at necklines and hips.
His evening capelets are In net, tar
feta and pique.
Greed puts basqued jackets with
skirts that fit like corselets. Main