The Coolidge examiner., 1935-06-14

motor, has an sge-old air OF per-
manence.
The archway emerges into a sun
liz plaza or market place, filled with
lowland peasants hawking their
wares, and groups OF pilgrims OF
all classes actively and noisIly bar
gaining for food. Among city Span
iards dressed in modern garb, one
sees farmers In red caps, or gorros.
and sandals; working men In velvet
knee breeches and faded scarlet
sashes; wives with mantillas and
shawls drawn closely over their
heads; pairs Of somatenes, the typi-
cal Catalan state police; monks In
sable cloaks and children Of all
ages. A few pannier-laden donkeys
nlbble at the grass under the stunt
ed trees. Except that the setting
Is undoubtedly Spain. It is all very
much like page out Of "Canter-
bury Tales"
A traveller directed to a terraced
arcade at the far side OF the court,
within which Is the Office, was given
somewhat of surprise. Over the
desk Of the father In charge OF pill
grim registration was shining
electric light. and at his right hand
was a telephone He had not ex-
pected such innovations In a Bene-
dictlne monastery.
Had he been better acquainted
with the rule of st. Benedict he
would have known that the manner
OF life among Benedlctlne monks
has never been austere.
The Black Virgin.
In order TO see the sacred image
which is shown at the 10 o'clock
mass one hurries down to the court
yard. A steady stream Of worship
ers files through the carved door
way OF the baslllca. According to
legend, La Moreneta, as the Black
Virgin Is called. was carved by st.
Luke himself and brought to Bar
celona A. d. so by st. Peter. Dur
Ing the Moorish invasion and occu-
patton 1t was hidden by Christian
monks In one of the caves Of Mont
serrat near the site of the present
monastery. Years later shepherds
discovered IL and told stories Of
strange music heard In the vicinity.
An effort was made to bring It
down from the mountain, but, al
though the statue Is not quite life
size. IL could not be moved beyond
the ledge where the monastery now
stands. The basilica, accordingly,
was erected to protect 1t, and the
monastery built TO care for the
throngs Of pilgrims who climbed the
mountain to worship at the Vir-
gins shrine. Especially do young
couples come to Montserrat, FOR the
blessing of La Moreneta Is said to
insure a happy union.
The dinginess OF the interior of
the basillca serves only to accentu-
ate the brilliance of the altar, with
It's Jewels, silver plate and bright
vestments. 1t was on this altar In
the Sixteenth century that Loyola
laid his sword when he abandoned
his military life to devote himself
to the service Of Christ. Above the
high altar, surrounded by lighted
candles, is a small stage concealed
by two velvet curtains. You keep
your eye on those curtains for you
know the image must be back Of
them. Presently the chanting OF
the priests increases In volume, and
the curtains are drawn slowly aside.
You gasp! Even though you have
been told that the image Is black
ened from age, you had not expect
ed anything like this. White vest
ments and light background make
the face and the hands CLEAN like
Jet! For silent moment every
one gazes, and then the curtains
drop together. Only so long Is the
sacred image exposed to view.
Quietly you make your way to a
door leading upon a paved terrace.
"El Cami dels Dehotalls" (The
Road Of the Drops), a sign reads.
The drops" do not refer, as they
well might, to the breath-taking
abysses along the side Of the path,
but to kind of grotto, moistened
by trickling water, which is reached
after a few minutes walk.
Here Is one Of the finest piano.
ramas in Montserrat. Almost half
of Catalina is spread below. Sur
prislngly near is the sparkling blue
water Of the Mediterranean, while
the white peaks Of the Pyrenees
seem but good stones throw away.
The river, which was a silver rib
bon from the cog railway, Is only
thread from this dizzy height 1t
Is view to stir the Imagination
and TO make the head swim