Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1935-07-27

the subject somewhat exhaustively.
Their search was finally rewarded
by most comprehensive article,
written by Barbara B. Brooks, home
economics expert, which lays empha-
sis on the too-often forgotten fact.
that cooking is fundamentally form
of chemistry, and that a knowledge
of chemical reactions along certain
lines proves of untold assistance to all
those who take their culinary labors
seriously
The article goes on;
"EXCEPT in mixtures where air is
incorporated by beating or by
adding beaten eggs, the leavening
agent for quick breads and cakes is
always some form of soda and acid.
These are the principal ingredients of
baking powder itself. In the pres
ence of moisture soda and acid react
and give off carbon dioxide This gas
escaping into dough or batter, makes
il light. Heat speeds up the process
and expands the volume of gas, so
that mixtures become still lighter
when baked
In general there are three ways of
using soda in baking. The only diff
ference among them is the source and
the amount of acid in the mixture
If none of the ingredients in the recipe
is acid, baking powder "a mixture of
both soda and acid) is used. Biscuits
or bran mullins made with sweet milk
are examples of this type
When sour milk. buttermik, or
other ingredients supply the acid, soda
is used as the leavening agent. The
recipe for bran brown bread which
Is given below, is a good illustration
Of the second use of soda
There are many ingredients which
are weak acids, or mixtures in which
only small amount of an acid in
gredlent is used. Because the quantity
of gas depends upon the amount of
soda that will react with acid, in the
third type of mixture it is necessary
to use both soda and baking powder
to get light product.
Recipes using molaSses. honey,
dark sirups, brown sugar, applesauce
or banana pulp need a little soda to
react with whatever acid these in
gradients yield, and some baking pow
der for additional leavening. 1t takes
skillful balancing of such recipes for
the best results. Very experienced
cooks soon learn what changes are
necessary when substitutions are
made. such as molasses for sugar or
applesauce for milk. However, it is
best to rely upon recipes from stand
ard cook books and experimental
kitchens for satisfa Glory results.
The following recipes have been
triple-tested and illustrate several of
the principles of baking with soda.
BRAN BROWN BREAD.
y cup SUGAR. cup bran.
! cup -four. cup sour milk.
J teaspoon soda. "a cup raisips.
" teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon molasSes
Mix together the bran, sour milk,
and raisins, then add the molasses,
sugar and flour which has been sifted
with the soda and salt Put the
mixture into creased can, cover
tightly and steam for three hours.
12-ounce baking powder can is suita-
bic size.) Yield, two 12-ounce cans.
Soda in the next recipe reacts with
the brown sugar and helps develop a
mild but rich chocolate flavor.
DEVILS FOOD CAKE.
70 cup butter. cups siftcd pastry
! cup sifted brown -four
sugar firmly l tablespoon baking
packed soda.
egg and . egg "a teaspoon salt
yolks. well beaten | cup milk.
/ teaSpo IN vanilla
extract.
3 squares g ounces unsweetened choco-
late. melted and cooled.
Cream butter and add sugar grad
TALLY, beating after each addition
until light and fluffy Add eggs. Add
chocolate and blend we'll Add sifted
dry ingredients alternately with milk,
small amount at time, beating
until smooth after each addition. Add
vanilla, turn into two creased 9-inch
layer pans. Bake in moderate oven
1925 degrees F. 30 minutes.
Soda is needed to nelItralize the