Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1935-01-06
MADEIRA CAPITAL
]. FULL Of NOVELTY.
Bullock Drawn SIedgeS,
Mountain Ride and ven-
doris Lend Thrills.
BY JOHN FRANCES STEELE.

BIZ JOdN FhANSES S1EELEs
When sailing toward the Mediter-
ranean, Funchal, Madeira Islands, is
the first stop out of New York, with
the coast of Morocco about $50 miles
away.
The climate and its spacious hostel
ries with broad verandas overlooking
blue waters through poisoning
oleanders and overhanging greenery,
make it popular Winter resort. With
Southampton 1900 miles northward,
the Britisher has for many decades
found the Funchal area a quiet retreat
from the stress and storm of social
and political warfare.
Approaching the islands, the
Terreiro da Lucia Mountain towers
high on the skyline with filmy
clouds, like a ruffled jabot adjoining
a shirt-front.
The islands belong to Portugal, and
Madeira is the largest, with an area
of 270 square miles. The entire
group has a population of over 100000.
Funchal, with population of $4,000,
is the center of government.
Home of Columbus.
Madeira should be of particular
interest to Americans in as much as
Christopher Columbus lived here
from 1916 to 1882. First he came as
vlSitor-in fact, he became very
frequent viSitOr-paying court to one
Senorita Perestrello, a fair maid of
Funchal, who later became his bride.
She was brought up among maps and
charts and was woman of foresight
and vision. Her father, Bartholomew
Perestrello, was a mapmaker and
georgrapher of no small Importance,
and, doubtless, was of considerable
service to Columbus in his quest Of
the new route to India
The transportation proplem of
Funchal was solved many years ago
in a strange and interesting way by
an Englishman with an invalid wife
by the Introduction of the bullock
Caro-. This is kind of sledge which
slides over the cobbled streets. While
not the smoothest ride in the world,
1t probably has advantages over the
old-time carriage or cart. Automo-
lilies have invaded the islands, but
the bullocks are still used as novelty
to sight-seers. The bullock CAIRO
takes the visitor past row upon row
of white houses and through narrow,
cobbled streets to the foot of the
mountain. The driver runs along
urging the poor beasts into a swift
gallop until one feels every instant
that he will be dashed against a wall
or into an open ditch.
A Barrage of Flowers.
Vistas of beauty unfold as the train
starts up the Terreiro da Lucia
Mountain. There are white Spanish
looking houses, with colorful gardens.
Flowers are everywhere. Children
follow the slow-moving coaches and
pelt the travellers with flowers of
every hue. The walls are a riot of
color from the luXuriant bogumvilla
clematis and hundreds of varieties
OF indigenous tropical plants.
Reaching the summit-in fact,
every way you turn on the island
you have an unlimited escort OF
children asking for money. Still
they are clean and good-natured and
much like the youngsters in any
American town. They speak good
English and would grow quite
chumny with little encouragement.
The descent from the mountain by
basket sledge is thrilling experience.
Down the precipitous way the basket
flies. Halfway down the incline the
mountaineers stop at wine shop
and drink to your health-at your
expense.
Wine and Embroidery.
The name, Madeira, which means
wood" in Portuguese, Immediately
suggests wine" to the average
man and handmade embroidery" to
women.
The very important industry of
embroidery was installed by a
generous English woman who was
anxious to do something for the
women of the island. The wines
largely are exported to Switzerland,
Germany and Sweden, as the native
prefers his sugar rum.
Shopkeepers speak good English,
and possess a dignity not to be found
in the street vendor.
The bazaars have fine displays of
wicker work made from the willows
OF the island. 1t is popular with
Americans.
When the steamer anchors early in
the morning the traveller is awakened
by gladstone noises of the boatmen
who swarm the waters ready to
display their wares of post cards,
beads and exquisite pieces of hand
made embroidery. They are so per-
sistent, that they stand in their
boats displaying huge tablecloths OF
fine work long after the gangplank
is removed. The passenger frequently
will lower a small rope and pull up
his purchase just before the ship
sets in motion. So eager are the
vendors to make sale that many a
fine piece can be bought for S75
which earlier in the day was held at