The Waterbury Democrat., 1935-11-21
In New York
o iOsS NEA

NeW xOrk, NOVs 4A-1HnhkHIep 1l you can, 6 public banquet without a single after-dinner speech, with out @ cloud of cigar fumes drifting irto your demi-tasse and without a master of ceremonies; @ banquet that winds up in a loud cheer for the chef instead of the arrange ments committee chairman and in O long round of applause for the green salad.
 I wasn't dreaming for such has just happened at the dinner ten- dered by the Wine and Food So- ciety in the Savoy-Plaza off Fifth avenue.
 The 250 members of the Wine and Food Society abided by the rules. By a stopwatch, Henry w. Taft, Gourmet Extraordinary, brother of the late President, used exactly 30 seconds to introduce the chicken consomme and to conclude the feast. Not e puff of tobacco smoke contaminated the black cof- fee although @ couple of brother epicures, including Jules Glaenzer, cheated with a whif or two out in the corridor, between the Pompano and roast Guinea Hen. Even the cook was forbidden any comment Gin French, of course) when he was dragged up to the dias. They might have given him @ minute to explain, in self-defense, why La Creme Su- rette (chicken consomine to you, chicken consomne to all of us) was faintly overdone.
 Well. they didn't and most of the members, mildly soaked In many nectars, including Q sixteen year old sherry, e White Burgundy, e red Burgundy, Q veuve Cliquot Cham pagne (vintage of 1923) and an ex- tremely fine and patent Champagne of 1875, were willing to forget the whole chicken consomme incident, out of natural generosity. After oil, 1t happens In the Kitchens of the best families.
 Martyrs to Good Taste
 But perhaps I should tell you more of the aims and purposes and the reason for existence of the Wine and Food Society. It is Q band devoted to educating mankind in the better enjoyment of food and wines and to experiment with both. Brave men, all of them, because they are willing to make the first sacrifice by tasting everything. Once they met ct Manhattan hotel room and tasted American cheese from 5 o'clock in the afternoon url- til ' p. m. and innumerable samples of sherry have passed their lips for an o. K.
 Among the leaders of this hu- manitarian club is Crosby Gaige, theatrical producer, butterfly chas- CT, inventor, book collector, country squire and last but by no means least, amateur cookbook authority It was MT. Gaige, incidentally, who inducted your frightened correspon- dent into the society.
 Yes, frightened. For, although practicing explorer of matters gas- tronomical-I distinctly recall hav- ing written Q couple of books on New York restaurants-I've never been tossed into Q foray with menu such as this before. It was easy sailing through Le Petlts Pois Nouveau, Watch Hill Farm, which turned out to be new peas, and Le pompano Grille Mitre du Hotel which turned out to be fish, but having Le Occur De Pintadon Larde Roti Sur Canape turn out to be breast of guinea hen caused @ mo- ment of distress.
 Expertness Open to Doubt
 And, by the way, must remem' Der to tell officers of the Wine 6 Food Society of certain member in the ranks who aren't exactly Ill to snuff. Or sniff? On the way t, the Sherry, table, one lady turned ] to her esort and asked, Shall W, have another glass?" Her escor looked furtively around the room for a minute and sheepishly replied "Why not, I guess it's the thing [, do." That kind of indecision won do in our club 7. Not to mention the other exquisitely gowned lad! who remarked as she reached fol her cup, T always thought sherr. belonged in the soup"
 Mir. Taft is president of the SO ciety, Andre simon, who founded the group, is chairman, and Rich ardson Wright is one of the execu' tive officers. Lucius Beebe, the jour nalist, Philip Merivale, the theatri' cal star, Mrs. Julian Street, wifs of the wine connoisseur, and Alfred Knopf, the book publisher. are cthel practicing gourmets in the execu' tive council.