Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1935-06-27

vas rated among the most accom-
nlished climbers Of the day. And ev-
erv one knew that the veterans heart
was set on conquering Mount Glacier.
Mo living man had ever reached Gla-
cier's lofty summit. 1t was one of the
few remaining ascents that still held
ont an insuperable defense to the
strength and endurance Of man.
One after another Of the worlds
greatest pinnacles had succumbed to
the skill and perseverance of the great
Leonard. Lesser peaks. they were, but
testing his skill and that Of others to
the utmost. And now Mount Glacier
Hundreds Of others had failed. It had
been said that no living man would
ever reach its summit. And yet to &C
complish that very end had become an
obession with Neal Leonard. It meant
the crowning achievement Of his ca
reer.
There were three in Leonard's party
Turner Cameron, who had scaled the
most precipitous trail up the Matter
horn in record time; Orris Markham,
whose name was byword of achieve
ment among mountain climbers Of the
Alps, and Leonard himself. Both Cam
eron and Markham were comparatively
young. They were not as sober and
concerned about the success Of the at
tempt as was their leader. To them 1t
was a glorious adventure; to Leonard
the accomplishment Of burning am
bition.
The trio set out early one morning in
late spring, following a farewell party
sponsored by guests at the Alpine
House as tribute to the three daring
men. 1t took the party week to reach
Glaciers base; week Of climbing that
would have taxed the skill of unladen
men, let alone these three who were
forced to struggle over lesser ridges,
each bearing on his back a minimum
of 40 pounds Of food and equipment.
Leonard had chosen his companions
with foresight. When the base camp
was established, both Markham and
Cameron were as eager for the ascent
as when they started. The discount
ture Of the weeks preparatory" work
had not discouraged them in the slight
est.
Following a days rest, the party
awoke before daylight and prepared to
make their first ascent-the south wall.
At the first flush of dawn they set out.
Roped together, with Leonard in the
lead, they made quick timeS over the
comparatively easy southern defense.
Once atop the wall they rested, ate
and began climbing again by two in the
afternoon. High above them lowered
the cone-shaped summit.
Their present encumbrance was a
mob known as the Cancels Hump. At
first the slope was easy; the snow well
packed for climbing purposes. But by
late afternoon, with the humps top still
good hour away, the trail became
more precipitous. The slope shot up
ward at dangerous angle.
Leonard kept in the lead, digging out
footholes with his ak with studious
care. He surmounted one ledge after
another, gave his companions the adj
vantage Of tight rope whenever pos
sible, and finally, just as daylight be-
gan to fade, reached the top Of the
hnal ledge, and halted.
They made camp on the wind-blown
summit of the Cancels Hump and went
Immediately to bed.
At dawn they were up and ready to
Degin again. Caching a quantity of
their food supply, they began at once
the ascent Of the dangerous Pulpit
Rock. The rock presented the first
real difficulties Of the climb. 1t was
accomplished by hitching the body up
through a series of chimneys-narrow
creVices with an almost perpendicular
climb. Leonard, as usual in the lead,
reached the last chimney's top at 1 80
IN the afternoon. Below him his COM
panions were obscured from view by
an angle of rock.
Alone, with hundred miles an hour
WIND threatening at any moment to
unseat him from his precarious perch,
the veteran confronted and overcame
one Of the most hazardous Of all as
cents.
at the chimney's top a fiat slab of
rock, smooth as glass, sloped upward
at nearly perpendicular angle for
distance of Is feet. A barely visible
crack, not large enough for man to
insert In it his finger tips, extended the
length of the slab. It looked impossi-
Die, but Leonard knew 1t had to be
done.
inserting the point of his climbing ak
IN the crack and making 1t secure by
twisting the handle outward, he hoisted
up his body, chung to the sheer face of
tne slab for GREATNESS instant while
ne ioosened the point and repeated the
Maneuver, and again pulled himself up.
IN tnis manner, miraculously, he reached
the ledge above. When his two COM
panions arrived at the chimney's top,
tney ascended the slab easily with the
nelp Of Leonard's tight rope.
That night the party camped on a
ledge scarcely wide enough for oil tbrao