Evening star., 1935-02-03


clearly to me before starting that one more
fal OF snow after had reached Heysooria
would block all escape-T would have to re-
main in the village four months as much a
prisoner as my hosts-and live with all the
comforts and rehnements Of the twelfth GEN.
tury.
took the risk, but watched the sky with
anxious eyes as we advanced, prepared to turn
about at the first sign Of snow.
My luck held. It didn't snow, nor did we
slide off the clff-face onto the frozen river
below
Beside the terrific peaks towering above us.
the Alps seemed like the Blue Ridge. We have
been taught that Mont Blanc is the highest
mountain in Europe. In the range along the
slopes OF which we were trampng are nine
peaks higher, and q score more that top the
Matterhorn. Elbrus overlooks Mont Blanc by
nearly 5000 feet.
THE village typical of all the others in
Hevsooria), is built with 1OO-foot retaining
walls, and perched on the top of Gibraltar
like spur jutting into the valley. It seems to
be growing right out of the crag From dis
tance its dramatic and defiant position is sug-
gestive Of Tibet The walls of all the houses
are field stone-the roofs fiat. Shooting up out
of the midst of every village is a 1O0-foot watch
tower or two. indicating that the Hevsoors had
to guard their flocks, and their liberty. day and
night, In times past.
In these crude stone shacks, sheep goats
pigs, COWS and Hevsoors have lived happily
together for 800 years,
The entire population of the village-some
3O0-came to look at us, for we were the first
foreign visitors in two months
I hoped TO find every Hevsoor man I saw
wearing his famous coat Of mail I didn't find
single one. But on the wall in every house
the armor hung beside the shield and gun The
sword itself, varying from IL to 80 inches long,
each man carries constantly. 1t is as much a
part of his dress as his sheepskin hat or the
curved row Of cartridges across his chest
CEEING how interested was in the chain
- armor, the village elders took down half
dozen suits and let me examine them and try
one on. The entire outfit including shield and
sword, weighs about IS pounds.
Each mesh coat Is made of some 20 900 tiny
iron rings, and put on like a nightshirt The
sleeves are short, but mesh gauntlets cover the
forearmS With each suit goes q sleeyelike
chain helmet with q hole cut out for the face
A Zap folds over the face so that the head can
be entirely protected. For the shins there are
likewise mesh greaves. Consequently when COM
pietely arrayed the only parts Of the body
Vulnerable are the knees and thighs The origi-
nal mesh is terribly rusty, as the owners no
longer understand how to preserve 1t. The
newer coats are made Of rings Of copper wire
stolen from the telegraph lines along the high
road It Is both cleaner and lighter than the
iron, but offers by no means as good protection.
The Hevsoors have not worn their coats of
mail into battle since their famous march to
Tifis in 1915. The chief reason Is that those
who finally did join the Czar's army soon found
that modern bullets have no respect for copper
wire mesh
But for Dwelling, which is still the accepted
way OF settling all disputes, the contestants stin
clothe themselves In their armor.
Also they enjoy fighting for fun. Like their
forefathers the crusader Knights, they have o
passion for putting on their iron shirts and
going at each other with their broadswords.
Fighting, both IN good and bad humor, in this
land where books are unknown and where other
forms Of sport or diversion simply do not exist,
is the only means they have Of expressing
themselves.
the sixth day, the freeday Of the Soviets) is
reserved for getting drunk and dueling.
For my benefit two Of the Hevsoor braves
decided to put on q show. We all went to
little plateau outside the village where the
ouelists face each other. There Is no referee,
as everybody has known and followed the rules
for 800 years. Unlike the jousting in the
Middle Ages, when ladies were such important
features OF a tournament the Hevsoorian
duelists permit only men to watch. In fact, If
woman accidentally happens to come by, the
fighters must cease fighting, take of their
helmets and lay down their swords.
The fighters crouch with one knee bent almost
to the ground. Their small, light shields, en-
oossed with big cross are used to parry rather
than receive the blows Of the opponents sword.
The duelsts jump about with astonishing
agility circling and jockeying for position like
fighting cocks. Recklessly the swords thud on
ieather shlelds, crunch on chain armor, clash