Evening star., 1935-01-13

0- HREE people enter Jewelry store at
the same time The one. . man of
obvious wealth, asks the clerk to show
him the most expensive pearl neck
laces Another, naughty lady OF
average circumstances, fingers along
with knowing air, q group OF lovely emerald
and sapphire earrings; while the third,
nervous youth in his early twenties, surveys
the cheaper grades Of diamond engagement
rings.
Assuming that all three make purchases, may
we take it for granted that any one Of this
representative group Of Americans knows very
much about value received? Probably not. We're
an brothers and sisters under the skin when 1t
comes to selecting precious stones For the SAD
truth is that not one person In q thousand,
rich or poor, high or low, knows how to buy
Jewels with any degree Of assurance.
Now this needn't be So Any one Of average
intelligence can, by simply paying attention to
. few fundamental considerations about gem
vls1es, not only learn to select precious stones
intelligently, but can also experience quite q
bit Of fln while so doing. Moreover, it's high
time . lot Of foolish fallacies about jewels were
blasted.
Starting properly from rock-bottom, how can
We define that much ballyhooed mysterious
something" called value? Take striking ex-
ample: George Kunz, now deceased, but as vice
president Of Tiffany's, one Of the world authori.
ties on gems, once pointed out that 1t would
be possible to carry million dollars worth Of
precious stones in a waistcoat pocket or tightly
grasped in the palm Of one hand. This Is simply
because, he explained most gems, notably the
diamond, possesses small bulk Of highly concen-
trated value.
DEAUTY, rarity and durability-this Is the
y magic trio Of major considerations which
largely determine value, and they apply whether
the Jewel under observation is transparent, as
the diamond; translucent, as the opal, the cats
eye. star sapphire or moonstone; colored. as the
emerald. ruby, sapphire, alexandrite, aquamarine
or tourmaline; or Opaque, as lapis lazuli and
malachite.
Durability, Of course, enters the picture in
this way. Nobody wants a stone that will chip,
scar or break readily. Moreover, market value of
gems. once they have been wrested from mother
natures bosom, depends in large measure upon
the final shape given them, as they require
special methods Of treatment and preparation
suitable often to the fashions Of the times
What are the true precious stones as dis
tinguished from the semi-precious ones? While
there Is some difference Of opinion among ex-
perts, personally would list the big six Of the
royal family" not only according to compara-
tive importance In keeping with our definition
Of value Is Just offered, but In respect only to
the finest grade Of gems-emeralds, rlbies (also
finest colored diamonds). diamonds, pearls, sap
Supposing you visit store and want to select
fine Jewel, how should you 60 about it? Well.
tho first consideration for the novice in choos-
ing any precious stone Is not to let himself be
fooled by the super abundance Of lights in q
shop. Illumination naturally tends to make
stones shine brightly. Not that I'm criticizing
the 5eweler for his idea One can't blame him
for wanting to display his lovely wares under
ideal circumstances.
In judging an emerald's quality, color should
be the major consideration. In addition the
stone. which Is OF a variety Of mineral called
beryl, should take high polish and be as
free from flaws as possible. But how can you
tell Just which color is desirable? How can you
diherentiate properly between the good and the
bad3 In very simple fashion. Visit q shop and
ask the dealer to place before you as many Of
his most expensive stones as he can conven-
aently Whefeupon have him also show you q
Ike number Of much cheaper stones. Very
quickly youn be able to note the vast differences
IN purity and spread Of shade, its depth and
bril1ance. besides the cut Of the stone. With
. little practice you can learn to tell at q
glance what kind Of emerald is finest-one with
an indefinable, yet remarkable, Impid quality;
. pure, rich color not too pale but ranging in
shade from grass-green to that characteristic
deeper hue known to commerce as emerald
green.
But II your examination of the stones with
the naked eye doesn't seem to educate you
adequatey In these regards, why not ask the
5eweler to let you view some Of his gems under
tho microecopef Surely he won't object to that,
ana the method win prove to you far better
than I can describe what the word quality