Evening star., 1934-12-16
ADVENTURE FILLS
TRIP TO BOLIVIA
"Roof of the World" Is
Bright With Sunshine and
Color.
BY LUCY FARNSWORTH
OF the Pan-American Union STAFF.

OF the Pan-American Union STAFF.
This is the thirteenth OF series
OF stories on traDel in Pdn-Aner-
team countries.
"A table of silver on legs of gold"
was the lure of Bolivia, or Peru as it
was called, for centuries after the con-
quest, and Peru" and "Potosi'' came
to be synonymous terms for the
precious metals. Today, the produc-
ton Of gold and silver has declined
considerably, but Bolivia offers an
equally strong appeal to the visitor
from abroad.
Here are the remains Of the great
race which dominated so large part
OF the continent centuries before the
coming Of the Spaniard; here also are
the relics of a civilization antedating
even that of the Incas, and offering
mute testimony to an advanced period
in the history Of the American Con-
tinent when our ancestors in Europe
were emerging from a state of
barbariSm.
The visitor has the choice of four
routes in entering Bolivia, through
three ports along the West Coast or
by rail from BuenoS Aires on the At
lantic. Any one approaching from the
north, however, usually diSembarks at
Mollendo, the southernmost port of
Peru. Let us follow this route in going
to Bolivia-"The Roof of the World"
Begins With Novelty.
At the very outset the visitor ex-
perienceS the novelty of going ashore
in an unusual manner. Of Mollendo,
the Pacific bellies its name, as there
Is a constant swell along this impress
sive rockbound coast, and the absence
OF q harbor makes it necessary for
passengers to go ashore in launches
After blowing for a few minutes
through the swells. they reach the
landing DOCKS where large chair is
let down from the pier, the passenger
seats himself, is lifted up into the air,
and swung over onto the docks.
For some miles after leaving Mol
lendo, the train follows the coast, the
brown and gray foothills on the left,
the endless deep blue on the right, with
the breakers sounding above the noise
OF the train as they strike the rocky
shore. Soon it begins a steady climb
winding in and out like giant serpent
wriggling its way around the foothills
in steady ascent. Midway between
Mollendo and Arequipa the train
emerges on level plain, the Desert of
Islay, with its weird, crescent-shaped
sand dunes scattered irregularly here
and there. Indistinguishably, and yet
irresistibly, these mounds of sand,
ranging from 80 to 100 feet across
and from 6 to IS feet high, move across
the ground; forced by the wind, con-
stantly blowing in one direction, and
all shaped like crescent. There seems
to be no explanation (although many
have been attempted as to just why
on this particular plateau this sand
and wind should create such beautiful
dunes.
AS the train continues on, across
valleys and at the base of steep noun
tain cliffs, with an occasional glimpse
OF the Pacific, for the first time comes
vivid realization of the grandeur of
the Andes. Trees and grass there are
none, as these regions are rainless, but
this very circumstance enables this
tremendous land mass to show its
natural colors of soft velvety shades
of gold and crimson, in harmonious
blending most pleasing to the eye.
Down in the deep canyon we see small
farms along the banks of swift-moving
streams. walled in by beautiful colored
rocks, the green garden spots present.
ing a pleasant contrast to the sur
rounding vari-colored walls. Here and
there along the sides of the hills are
the terraces laid out many centuries
ago by the Incas, evidences of industry
and organization that make us pause
and wonder at the achievements of
these early inhabitants.
A Refreshing Pause.
Arequipa, at an altitude Of 1900
feet, is reached just after sunset. It
is the halfway point between the sea
and the highlands, and a very de-
lightful place for a stop-over before
continuing the journey onward to
Bolivia as it gives the visitor a chance
to become accustomed to the high
attitudes. The Indians must have had
this in mind when calling this par
ticular spot Of perpetual sunshine at
the foot of Mount Misti, Arequipa, for
It means in their language REST Ye
Here"
Continuing upward, we reach the
shores OF Lake Titicaca, and find our
selves in the very center of that
ancient civilization that dominated all
that part of Western South America
from what is today Ecuador to the
north to Central Argentina and Chile
to the south. To the north lies Cuzco
the capital of the Inca Empire, with
its massive walls and impressive
temples, veritable storehouse for the
archeologist and a source Of wonder
to every visitor. No one, of course,
should fail to visit Cuzco Our destina-
ton, however, is Bolivia, so We turn
southwark and cross Lake Titicaca.
Situated $4,000 feet above the level
OF the sea, Titicaca is the highest
steam-navigated lake in the world. It
has an area Of more than 5000 square
miles. measuring at its greatest length
135 miles, with an average width of 66
miles and q depth varying from $50
to 1,500 feet. Impressed as we are with
the remains of prehistoric civilization,
modern engineering skill is also in evi-
dence here, for the steamer on which
we cross from Puno, Peru, to Guaqui,
Bolivia, was built in England, knocked
down and carried across the oceans
and thence up the remarkable South
ern Railway of Peru and reassembled
on the shores Of the lake.
Fascinating Scenery.
As Lake Titicaca is situated so high
above the clouds, it was perhaps newt
able that 1t should become the cradle
Of myths and traditions and should fig
IRE so prominently in the religion of
the Incas. Here are the sacred islands
Of Titicaca and Coat, better known as
the Island of the Sun and the Island
OF the Moon, with % smaller ones. II
one is fortunate enough to have a
moonlight night In crossing the lake, he
will behold most fascinating scenery.
As the steamer travels on through the
night, in the cool and brilliant atmos-
phere Of the highlands, the faint out