Evening star., 1934-05-20
MO FABRIC takes colors and vivit


MO FABRIC takes colors and vivid
patternings more beautifully
than cotton, which is reason enough
for the striking new evening gowns
now being shown in exclusive American
collections. Huge block patterns, in
combinations of red. black, white and
gray, are exceptionally effective in
a frock with sweeping volantS in back,
high front and low back decolletage,
and black velvet ribbon sash. Fine
line plaids in two and three color
combinations. vivid candy stripes,
many of Mexican inspiration, tiny
gingham checks and multi-color
forals are types which you will see
repeatedly through the Summer
months. at formal dinners, roof gar
dens and country clubs
The frocks which flaunt these color
full fabrics are essentially simple of
line. The silhouette is nodded and
slim, often swirled from knee TO hem.
Trains are shorter, with many skirts
rising toward the front. Interest lies
above the waist, where distinctive
neckline treatments register strongly
Contrary to expectations, the high-in-
front, low-in-back decolletage mas not
gone out, but remains to surprise us
in many ingenious halter and strap
treatments. Covered shoulders, fire.
quently capped, bows and fine pleat-
ings lend crisp and feminine touches
to the bodice Newest of necklineS is
the square cut in front, which may be
deep or shallow. Occasionally a
youthful gown will curve just at the
base of the throat, the high cut en-
phaSized by bow, a bunch of flowers
or a bit of pleating An extreme type
is the frock without shoulder straps
the bodice pointed on both sides and
boned to remain in place.
Velvet, taffeta or grosgrain sashes.
bows, or straps are characteristic de-
tails, as are folds of tulle, lace or
floral decoration at the neckline. The
sashes are tied with short loops and
long ends to bear out the streamline
influence Flowers have never been
so important. violets, white or parma,
and lilacs among the smartest. Roses,
tulips or smaller flowers. in their nat
ural colors or dyed In blue or green,
are a very chic note.
Organdies, nets, cotton organza,
marquisettes and f1lmy voiles are
sheers which subscribe to this new
feeling of color and airiness. Nets
continue their early popularity in
deep, plain colors. such as paprika,
rust, coppery browns, wine, deep plum
and navy, and in circus dots, all-over
florals, checks, or small. neat pat
terms. Dotted swiss bellies its femi-
ninity in deep. bold plaids.
A gala group includes the sturdier
cottons. immensely popular with the
younger set. Scotch plaid ginghams,
printed and plain piques. linen in
vivid multi-color stripes, checks, dra-
matte plaids and a few f1orals are
worn. Seersucker, too. has its fol-
lowing. in equally colorful patterns.
Pique, particularly, is in demand,
in fine and wide-wale and waffle ver-
sions. This tailored fabric is emf
nently suited to the sheath frock
without a vestige of decoration One
successful model is the wrap-around
dinner gown, buttoned down the side
front of the bodice, the skirt remain
ing loose Others look more like a
long -skirted tennis frock, with deep,
sun-back necklines, paneled and
graduated skirt fullness in back. and
with f1ippant bows on the shoulders.
These may be belted with grosgrain
or velvet, or may be entirely beltless,
a most effective silhouette for the
slim figure.
7 ONG hours Of daylight introduce a
- new problem to the smart woman
that of dining formally while the
sun still shines. The problem is met
and solved by the formal restaurant
ensemble, and many of its most chic
examples are cotton, this Summer.
Here the problem of skirt length rests
with the individual, some choosing
the foor-length types which continue
on to late hours of dancing, while
others prefer the new ankle-length
which maintains its formality in a
more or less casual way.
The cotton-lace ensemble, usually
in the deeper shades, such as violet,
deep plum, wine, navy and tobacco
brown, finds itself ready from O'Clock
in the afternoon till dawn. Here the
frock itself is usually very formal