The Waterbury Democrat., 1934-01-30
WINES TO SERVE
 WITH EACH COURSE
Rules of Sequence Says Light Wines First With
 Heavier Climaxing Meal

Bottles of white wines should be lced in a bucket; red wines should be served at dining-room tempera- ture. Bring the bottle from the eel lar some hours before serving and let it come naturally to roonH tem- perature. Do not turn or shake the bottle, disturbing the sediment. A good generous wineglass, half filled, is preferable to a small glass filled to the brim, as the former leaves an air-space in which the bouquet jortant wine should be served in the largest glass.
 The rule of sequence as to wines is that your light and unimportant wine should be served first, and that you should rise in graduated steps to crescendo. with your greatest wine served at the climax of the meal. The climax should be with the roast, or the. game. After that you let down pleasantly.
 With Oysters: If there must be a wine with oysters-it should be dry "a not-too-important Chablis, or a Pouilly.
 With Soup: A light sherry such as a pale dry Manzanilla or Anon tillado, will not make war against
 
 Is of course clear, sherry favored.
 With Fish: Never serve a red wine before the fish course. A dry white wine goes with fish, and the fish should be cooked simply. If you did not serve Chablis with the oysters it will go well here. If Cha blis has been served, bring on a dry wine, somewhat better: a fairly good Rhine, Moselle or Alsace; a Hermitage from the Rhone; a / Montrachet, Meursault or Pouilly from the land of noble Burgundies or a Haut Barsac.
 With the Entree: A red Bor- deaux may very well precede red Burgundy, but in no circumstances, however, must this order be re- versed. A fine red Burgundy served before 8 red Bordeaux, however fine, will make the latter taste in- sipid. With the entree you may serve a light red Burgundy if a superior Burgundy is coming later, or you may serve a good red Bor- deaux.
 With the Roast: If you are to serve game bird later this is the time to serve your next-to-best red wine. If, on the other hand, your meal is to climax with the roast, serve your best red wine now.
 A Game Course: Here is your climax. Serve your best red wine. If your Burgundies are only pass ing fair, a fine old Rhone will do nicely. Salad: Gourmets issue warnings against drinking wine with salad because the taste of vinegar in the dressing is ruinous to the flavor of wine. But there are French dress ings so mild and oily the vinegar flavor is practically absent.
 Cheese: Nothing displays the fla vor of a fine red wine as does good cheese: Pont PEveque, Port de Salut, Bel Paese, Gruyere, Erie, Camembert or Stilton. With cooked cheese dishes a dry white wine, such as an Alsace, goes best.
 Dessert: A light dessert, such as souffle or an almond pudding. not too sweet or. too pronounced in fia- vor, designed to set off to advan- tsge very sweet white Bordeaux such as Chateau Yquem, La Tour Blanche, or Climens.
 Coffee: If your guests are con- noisseurs, serve with your coffee a clean-f1avored cognac, unsugared Rnd nnadulterated, suave with the suavity of magnificent old age. If your guests are not connoiseurs, they will prefer the ordinary su- gared cognac of commerce, which has less penetrating taste.
 If we wish to cut down our din- ner to four courses with two wines, Eve can have a dry sherry before dinner or with the soup; with the groast O red Bordeaux; Rhone or 9 Burgundy; with the salad and des- 'sert no wine at all; then more of the same red wine with crackers md cheese.
 Or # we want white wine, sherry as above, followed by a Graves or other white wine, not too sweet with fish, frogs legs. lobster, sweetbrendg or even chicken; nothing else to drink un. III we come to coffee and iiqueura.
 Again, if we want three wines; sherry as above: dry young white Dnrgundy, Rhone, or Aiaace with the fish; Q good red Bordeaux. Rhone or Burgundy with tho roast; no wine with desert, and more of the red wine with cheese and ,rackers. afterward, before tho eof- fec, A variant of the foregoing omlts tho fish course and tho aa- e0mpanylnR sry whlto wine, jumps IIronlly from soup Co roast and red Alna, follows th0 roast with C nnin0 and sfbOelion of chose, continues he red who with tho cheese, and llodlleaH with doRneft C hauternee ,f anod auAllty,-uk Julian Street n Iiodb00k iIlnGnslno for Hodbook "'sgnslne.