Evening star., 1934-07-23
BY BRADFORD wAsHBURN.

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BY BRADFORD wAsHBURN.
Leader Harvard Dartmouth Mount criiIon
CFTILCN LAKE, Alaska. July "a
tBy Radio) Adams Carter and the
writer, forming the advance climbing
party Of the Harvard Dartmouth ex-
pedition. nave successfully reached
the summit Of Mount Crillon. the
highest unscaied peak of the Fair
weather Range in Alaska.
Two previous attempts by a Harvard
group. in 1882, failed. and last years
climbing party also failed after
reaching an altitude only scant 300
feet below the peak
Our successful climb was the result
Of months Of careful planning. fast
climbing and excellent weather con-
ditions
The great barrier. cliff between
the attitudes Of 1000 and 5000 feet.
which thwarted the 1892 party and
was dangerous obstacle last year,
was scaled by means OF ropes.
DtHerent Route Taken.
Henry Woods, Howard Kellogg. Ed
ward Streeter. Waldo Hoicombe. Carter
and ] were in the group that started
the ascent OF the mountain. We
reached the great ice plateau. 1000
feet below the summit OF Mt. Crillon,
nj Z o'clock In the morning. Our
route up the cliff was altogether diff
fah IL.
10 the lack Of snow as a result OF the
warm Spring. The new rout. was
mostly over steep rock buttress. pre-
senting the major difficulty in this
l.000-foot ascent to the plateau.
Once at the plateau, we enjoyed
perfect weather and had a surface
crust on the mountain. whose peak
was now 1000 feet above. Woods and
Kellogg helped Streeter and Holcombe
bring up supplies In case our assault
on the summit might have to continue
several days.
Carter and myself. both veterans OF
last years trip, started at once for
the peak. We were entirely relieved
Of loads, For an hour we traversed
the plateau. with a crusty surface like
cement pavement. Then the steep
climb up the face of the mountain
began. Winding about in crevasses,
up hard avalanches of snow, we final
ly reached the crest of the summit
ridge in knee-deep powder snow. Car
ter did superb job Of leading.
Chocolate for Breakfast.
Crouched in the shelter OF some
huge ice blocks. we munched choco-
late and fruit drops, as late break
fast. Then / took the head of the
rope for the final assault on the sum-
NIT pyramid We were already at
the same altitude as the highest point
attained last year.
There was a hard easterly gale.
The deep powder snow in the lee of
the ridge forced us to climb on the
crest Of knife edge of pure blue ice.
resulting in endless chopping of steps.
Storm clouds descended on us when
We were 200 feet below the peak, and
the clustering wind made our progress
difficult.
Mount Crillon, which had foiled us
Mt every step for two years, now yield
ed. Determined to win those last few
feet, we pushed ahead through mists
and snow. Finally the grade lessened,
the swirling snow died down and we
trudged through so yards of deep
powder snow to the crest of the final
peak, reaching it at 1890 pm. on
July 20.
Descent More Delicate.
Realizing the diffculties Of the de-
scent, with the wind increasing in
violence, We enjoyed two glorious min
utes Of eXultation at the summit, only
regretting that the great companions
of our past expedition and the support
party below could not be with us TO
share the finals victory.
The descent was more delicate and
treacherous than the ascent. We took
the utmost precaution and finally
reached our base at l 80 and met our
support party. We were at 1850
feet at O'Clock and then descended
from the high camp TO the Great VAL
lev. arriving at pm. after a superb
ski run on the last thousand feet.
Our ascent of Mount Crillon and
the successful plane flight about
Mount st. Elias several days ago. to-
Rether with the good results of the
scientific work at our base camp.
promise perfect completion of the eS-
petitions work We expect to return
TO civilization by airplane early in
August.
tCopyright 1894. by the North American
Newspaper Alliance, Inc