Evening star., 1934-04-15

are jacket frockS, we begin to real
ize their importance in the smart
scheme of things. No doubt about 1t,
Spring breezes have blown in the
Jacket ensemble, and women are rap
idly acknowledging its versatility and
chic.
Half the charm of the jacket cos
tune is due to its lack of set style,
which accounts, too, for its universal
becomingness. Jackets vary from the
briefest of boleros to loose knee-length
types, which may also be classed in
the coat category. Some are boxed,
some are straight, others are closely
fitted to the figure. Cape themes
are rapidly coming to the fore, giving
the nipped-in jacket a military look.
And the frocks worn beneath them
can be simple or elaborate, as be-
comes the time, the place and the
person.
Similarly, there are no hard and
fast rules regarding the combination
of fabrics and colors. Just now, the
dark crisp or crepe suit with brightly
patterned frock top is at the apex of
its style Importance. Yet light, sheer
wool jackets in banana aqua or bon
bon pink may top a black, navy or
brown crepe frock with devastating
chic; and fashion cable reminds us
that Bermuda has been much astir
over the natural linen crash jacket
worn over strong coral pink and ocean
blue. Prints prove good mixers, too,
for coat and frock may match, the
oh ha yNriy1f orl tho frnaly
plain, or the contrast reversed with
equal smartness.
X X X X
THERE is dressmaker quality in
the new jacket frocks for town
wear that makes them an excellent
foil for that other first fashion, the
tailored suit Windblown treatments
register widely. Fullness is pushed
to the front of the jacket in crisp,
stitched taffeta revers, cone-shaped
folds, enormous bows and jabots that
lie fiat orsdrape, as you will. In the
skirt, fullness ripples forward in
softly shirred sections, impressed
pleats or godets. Or contrarily, the
wind blown motion is carried to the
back where your jacket may flaunt
provocative ruffled peplum, and your
skirt something that looks suSpiciously
like hustle
You will see, perhaps more than
any other type, the frock with con-
trasting top and matching hip-length
jacket. nipped in at the waist, belt
less or belted half way. The frock
will have short sleeves and the jacket
set in, kimono or bell shaped sleeves,
pushed up to quarter length,
their greatest width at the elbow.
The rumor is of even more brevity
in sleeves, and already few high
style coats and jackets are being
shown with sleeves above the elbow.
Now that taffeta has been accepted
as the smart daytime fabric, you will
see countless little jacket suits in
navy, black. brown, pin-dotted or pin
striped taffeta, with frock tops Of Or
candle. organZa or mousSeline de sole
Haunting bold checks, stripes and
plaids outside the jackets in big bows,
crisp wide revers and chesty jabots
The bright-patterned taffeta top is
also good.
Alpaca is another old-time favorite
that looks unmistakably new, and
some stiff, fine failles and tussah
silks are being used in this connec-
ton. A navy alpaca jacket, shown
with checked silk frock, was fea-
ture of a recent important fashion
opening
For the softer suits, mossy crepes,
crepe romaine and crepe marocain are
in evidence, some with quilted taffeta
revers, others with touches of white
pique, sheer handkerchief linen or
stiffened chiffon.
**
CALL it what you will, a coat
jacket or a jacket-coat, the new
length, particularly for the sheer en-
semble top, is at the knees 1t is a
length that proves boon to the
woman who likes to be casual about
her corseting in warm weather. for
this additional length in a loose coat
does much to conceal deficiencies of
figure.
In dark, plain colors and natural
motif prints now, and in pastels later,
this type of ensemble promises to re-
tain its early popularity. The jackets
are Smartest with straight, loose
backs, smooth shoulders and full
sleeves-the shorter the better. The
frocks sponsor soft lines, draped cowls
or square neckS and decoration is
simple. One French designer created
an instant success by trimming both
frock and jacket with appliqued how-
ers cut from the print.
Paris has hit upon the perfect COM
plement to the printed chiffon or
organdie frock in the double taffeta
jacket, built on loose, airy lines, some
what in the manner of the coolie coat.
The two thicknesses of taffeta pro-
vide sufficient body for a Summer
wrap with barely feather weight. This
develops an ensemble suitable for late
afternoon wear, as well as for any
type of evening occasion, no matter
how formal.
HATS go gayer with the advent of
the soft town ensemble. Do
brims go bigger, also? The answer is
'yes" to the woman who wears them
becomingly. Cartwheel sailors, Bre-
ton sailors, windblown sailors, big,
square-cut brims and medium up
turned ones find smart acceptance for
street and restaurant wear. In any
event, even the conservative hat shows
o bigger brim than last season.
For the soft jacket frock, hats adopt
feminine detail in fruit and flower
trimmings that match the colors of
the print of the frock or jacket, if a
print is worn, or the color of some ac-
ceSsory. Shiny fabrics, such as patent
leather or cire ribbon are much in
vogue; the entire hat in patent leather
is very new. Big white pique bows
and the all-pique hat form the per-
feet complement to the ensemble
which features touches of white
pique. And the bigger the white hat,
the better.
Dull and shiny straws are both i'm
portant, with lacy straws becoming
increasingly popular. Burnt straw
provides that neutral shade which
harmonizes so well with the beige or
natural ensemble.
Stitched taffeta hats are shown