Evening star., 1934-04-08

tention. As we look around, the
Spring showings hold glamor and are
displaying evening apparel more fem
mime, if possible, than that of the
previous season. The back fullneSS is
stressed in almost every model, and
it is carried into the upper part OF
gowns through introduction Of capeS.
Fluttery detail at the shoulders often
is used by way of achieving this type
of fullness. 1t may be in the form of
pleated ruffle or a ruche which may
encircle the decolletage and the hem
line. Some of the couturiers use fins
at the shoulder line, which affect a
soft, f1uttery movement with every
step of the wearer.
Skirts which, because Of the pop
ularity of the train, have stressed the
back fullness for several months, con-
tinue in this mode. One of the cou-
turiers very effectively introduced an
insert of fan-shaped pleating, extend
ing in a deep V from just above the
knee, widening to a graceful train.
Others carried ruffle effect, applied
at the knee, deep at the front and
mounting at the back to the waistline,
adding a ruffle or two in accentuating
the back fullness.
1t is interesting to note that shoul-
der lines droop far over the shoulder
and that decolletages continue to be
low, both front and back, the deep,
oblong back being important. The
narrow strap over the shoulder, which.
until few seasons ago, was a classic
in the evening mode, is rarely, II ever,
seen at formal gatherings this year in
this country. American women have
substituted capes and ruches and frills
for the narrow shoulder strap, but
English women still cling to it.
y x *
THERE is certain type of woman
- who does not get JOY out of frills
and furbeloWs. They do not become
her. She finds the tailored evening
mode more adapted to her personal
ity. This year an important addition
to the tailored evening ensemble is
the box coat, cut along swagger lines.
1t may be finger-tip length, wrist
length, or quarters. 1t is either
made collarless, or with very simple
attached scarf. Not infrequently it
has patch pockets, and very OCCASION
ally it is trimmed with fur. dyed to
match the color of the fabric.
This outer wrap is in perfect keep
ing with the tailored evening gown
which it accompanies. Like many OF
the daytime ensembles it may be in
contrast, both in color and in fabric,
but its line is always perfect COM
plement to the frock.
While more mature women lean al
most unanimously toward the more
severe lines, youth can go as far as
it likes in the other direction. 1t can
revel in frilly effects this year. This
note of fol- de-rol extends even to the
outer wraps. Little jackets, with pep
lumS, which close at the Waistline
and have a frill extending around the
neck and down both sides of the front
closing. are in high favor with the
youthful. Capes of frilled net and
moline, of feathers and of artificial
flowers, are seen everywhere. An out
standing ensemble, displayed in one
of the Spring collections, was a black
mousseline gown, shown with cape
reaching to the elbows, completely
covered with white taffeta carnations.
The mannequin who wore this was
successful in giving the impression of
the naive, with just the right touch of
Sophistication. AS general rule,
these little capes are in contrast with
the gowns with which they are worn.
But despite the craze for contrasts,
many of the colorful printed evening
dresses are accompanied by matching
capeS.
No matter how comfortable the
loose little caplets and the shorter
length evening wraps may be for
warm-weather wear, the long evening
coat will always remain a favorite
with certain women. There is some
thing about the dignity of the full
length wrap that lends distinction to
the evening ensemble. And there is
little doubt that its slenderizing lines
will keep it in the mode for some
time.
A S IN daytime clothes, blue, in all
"A its wide range, is the first choice
in the evening field. Navy blue, in
early Spring models. Some of the
new prints, which are used extensively
for evening ensembles, have navy
backgrounds printed in designs of
lighter shades of blue or white. One
of the outstanding blues for lamp
light wear is a new, rich shade OF
sapphire. The peculiar quality of its
tone makes it becoming to blond and
brunette alike.
OF the pastel shades. all of which
are being worn, yellow seems to be
favored at the moment. Combined
with black, it makes distinguished
outfit, but it might be said it is equal
ly smart with brown or gray. When
it is worn with gray it frequently is
of the greenish cast. Here again Is
color combination which all types
are able to wear.
AS the season advances, pink will
be much in evidence. Fabric manu-
facturerS have devoted much atten-
tion to this color, and many new
shades are appearing on the market
A soft, duSky pink, which already
has gained popularity. will be lead
er all through the Summer, if fash
ion predictions hold, but new soft
tone of rose will vie with it for first
choice. In the triple sheer materials
this new color, in spite of it's tone
depth, is refreshingly cool looking.
For the first season in many years,
the pink shades will move from the
sports field to more formal atmos-
phere.
In spite of the fact that subdued
colors and soft tones seem to have
the stage right now, as the season
advances bright colors will be seen.
For the most part these will be in
gayly printed chiffons, and where they
are used they will make the cape or
jacket as well as the dress. Some
plain, vivid fabrics will be prominent
in Summer evening apparel.
X X
CHEER fabrics, such as printed and
~ plain chiffon. marquisette, net