davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1934-12-10
Forty Years of Half and Half.

EOIty 4CdIS Vi L1ah anu Ahdhs
For more than 40 years the half
and half plan of meeting District
appropriations was carried out with
but slight variations, the last ap-
preparation to which 1t applied being
that for the fiscal year ended June
80. 1920. The act making appropria-
tionS for the fiscal year 1921 provided
that 40 per centum of the sums nee
essary should be paid out of any
money in the Treasury not otherwise
appropriated and go per celtum out
of the revenues of the District of Co.
lumbia. This provision appeared in
District appropriation bills to and in
cluding the fiscal year 1884. The act
making appropriations for the District
for the fiscal year 1928 provided for
the 60-40 ratio as permanent law.
However, in the appropriation act for
the fiscal year 1925, the question of
adhering to this ratio between the
United States and the District of Co.
clumbia, then and ever since in force
under the substantive law. was ig-
nored, as the part contributed by the
present has been named in an annual
lump-sum amount. The original
lump-sum contribution was $4,000, 900,
and the continued to be the Federal
contribution until the fiscal year 1881.
As the District bill for that year
passed the House Of Representatives,
this amount was allowed by the
House, but in the Senate the lump sum
was increased to $12, 100000. AS the
bill came from conference between
the two houses, and was finally enact
ed, compromise was reached and the
contribution was fixed at $4,000, 900,
this being the sum also allowed in
the fiscal year 1882.
Lump Sum Reduced.
But in the fiscal year 1888 Con-
gress reduced the Federal payment to
Sits, 900, and this was further re-
duced in 1934-35 to $5,700,000.
We must admit that the people Of
the District of Columbia should be
expected to pay fair and reasonable
tax. AS I have previously indicated,
we believe that such a tax is now
being paid on real estate In this city
which supplies in the neighborhood
of two-thirds of our local revenue. It
may be that a comparison with other
cities might show that we do not pay
as much here in other forms Of
taxes as In those cities. Whether
such is the case z not, ! am not at
Evening star., 1934-12-10

- ECALLING the large crowds
that packed the theaters ano
4 brought 10000 new toys anc
y gifts for the poor children Of
Washington to The Star.War.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

is designed in sizes IA to 40. Size Is
requires yards of 39-inch material.
1422-B. ONE-PIECE FROCK FOR
CAMPUS. TOWN AND OFFICE
WEAR. SKIRT HAS TWO AMUSING
POCKETS.-From the standpoint of
wearability this model abounds in
good points. There is a dashing non
chalance expressed in the broad yoke,
the gathered bodice, modishly full
sleeves, and the ample cut of the side
pockets. Informal Autumn frocks of
this type are the outgrowth of the
shirtwaist dress of the past Summer.
For practical purposes, no other dress
fits so comfortably into the daytime
scheme of things. 1t may be made
either in silk shirtings, or in any Of
the new woolen weaves. Metallic jeI-
seys are noteworthy newcomers in the
fabric field. They come in all the ac-
cepted colors. The metal threads
CLEAN through the wool, giving inter-
esting reflections to the dress when it
is in motion. Bright colors are popu-
lar in these frocks, and will be seen
with increasing frequency later in the
season, under Winter coats.
Barbara Bell pattern No. 1422-B Is
designed in sizes IL to 90. Size Is re-
quires 312 yards of 39-inch material.
If the contrast. shown In the illustra-
ton, is to be used. measure those pat
tern pieces for the exact amount Of
material.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

lie trimmings on afternoon frocks.
Barbara Bell pattern No. 1423-B is
designed in sizes "a to so. Size SO
requires 312 yards of 39-inch material,
"a yard of 39-inch contrast.
14l9-B STYLE FOR DAYTIME.
IN THIS DRESS ALL SEVERITY is
TEMPERED BY THE FLATTERY
OF A PLEATED JABOT.-Jabots are
looming large as trimming treatments
ordained to relieve the severe outlines
Of many of the Smartest Fall frocks.
Without this precious ornamentation
many of the new clothes would lack
the charm and femininity that are
making us enthuSe over their wear
ability. THIS model is particularly
lovely, made in silk very like the
tie-Silks of last Summer; but more
formal in character. Any material
which will tailor creditably, will be a
good choice for it. The back of the
dress is plain, but for a pleated inset
at the bottom. This provision fol
expansion when moving about is at q
premium in many of the new Fall
frockS. Smart designers, however
know how transient a woman'S inter
est is in dresses that are uncomfort.
able, and for that reason, they have
arranged for necessary fulness where
it is needed, without taking away
from the smartness of the silhouette
Barbara Bell pattern No. l4l9-E
Evening star., 1934-09-02
1421-B. NOVEL ARRANGEMENT
OE pEVEpC CTUEc cnpLJTCTTCAT

1421-B. NOVEL ARRANGEMENT
OF REVERS GIVES SOPHISTICAT-
ED TOUCH TO DAYTIME FROCK.-
AS we already know, richness of fabric
is the important thing to insist upon
in our new Autumn clothes. Materials
are precious, indeed, this season, and
the SmarteSt frockS are constructed
with very definite simplicity, the
better to show off the beauty of tie
new fabrics and the glory of their
color. The grander the material the
palmer the dress. That is the present
rule in daytime frocks.
The particular note of interest in
this model is the shield-shaped revers
in the front. They respond TO the
general design carried out in the
sleeve detail and in the neckhpe. The
color scheme followed here is beige
with accents of wine. This comhina-
ton is smart this year, and one sees
it in many types of frocks. from these
made of velveteen and duvetyne to
the canton crepes and crepey woods.
There is an air of elegance and luxury
about these colors that is extremely
high style. Other combinations that
are smart, and not so perishaole, are
green and brown, black and white,
henna and brown, and gray with old
gold. The last mentioned Is one Of
the newest combinations.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

different, the simulated jacket front
is made in a contrasting color. Ths
effect is stunning and very new. Es-
pecially is the dress interesting when
viewed from the side, where just a
suggestion of the vivid front can be
seen. If you are in need of smart
occasional dress, one that is easy to
get in and out Of, this is a splendid
choice. It carries well-bred air
along with its style, and presents such
a socially secure appearance you are
bound to be comfortable in it, even
If you find yourself Unexpectedly hav-
ing tea at smart place in the
afternoon.
You may make the dress of any
chic wool-even velveteen would be
smart, for this flattering fabric now
comes in soft, pliable weight, which
practically every one is enthusing
over. 1t can be found in melting
oolors, too, and some of them are
printed in checks and squares. The
new woolens are extremely supple.
Most of them have either diagonal
weaves, or an even, hairy surface.
Nubs and ribs, in contrasting colors,
are another novelty that is being
taken seriously.
Perhaps the most interesting Of all
the fabrics for FAN are the metallic
jerseys. The surface Is that Of the
old.fashioned weave, and 1t comes In
Evening star., 1934-09-02

covered shoulders. An interesting
idea is Vera Borea's window box"
neckline. which features a square
tucked front, from which blooms a
row of bright flowers. Maggy Rouff
likes the soft, rounded line, but the
consensus seems to be that the square
neck is smartest-the lower the better.
In the less formal models, covered
shoulders retain their Importance.
Tiny cap sleeves, draped details and
bows, deep armholes emphasized by
wide bands of white fur, or sparkling
paillettes, draw ones eyes to the top
of the frock. Contrast, too, is a re-
peated theme, as lanes, both silver
and gold. put a wealthy shine ON your
shoulders to set off the rich dullness
of mat velvet or cloky crepe. Scarfs
and stoles of f1lmy chiffon, tulle or
net-yards Of it-cover your frock
above the waist and sweep to the floor
in dramatic panel at front or back.
Eyes that turn fioorward will find
much to claim their attention. A few
trains, but not many, and those fire.
quently fan-like extension Of oack
fullness. Floor-length skirts, so mar
Evening star., 1934-09-02

row that they need the knee-high
Sits that appear at center-front or
at one side, Mainbocher springs a
smart surprise in a triangle split that
nearly reaches the waistline Of a
princess frock, to reveal a matching
foundation beneath. Bright fabric
contrasts, introduced at the back of
the frock near the hem, and sugges-
tive of tail-feather plumage, are the
novel contribution of Martial ct
Armand. Low, soft pleatings and
double and triple row, circular
flounces animate the base of the
sheath silhouette, and are a favorite
means of achieving variety.
* ~
IVALING the stem silhouette is
the tunic-smartest expression of
the new Russian influence, and well
come break to the long tubular line
that characterizes so many Fall for
NAL frocks.
Sometimes it is a slim, straight
sheath to the knee; sometimes it
ascends the skirt in a wrap-around
spiral, an idea which one Paris de-
Evening star., 1934-09-02
l423-B

1888. BLACK CANTON CREPE
MAKES SMART AFTERNOON
FROCK FOR THE LARGER WOM-
AN.--Thanks to season wherein sew
eral different types of slhouettes COM
pete for supremacy, the needs of the
larger woman are being studied to her
advantage, and her prospects OF find
ing clothes that will be f1attering are
better than they have been in many
seasons. This particular dress has
more than one good point in her favor.
The bodice above the normal waist
line fits easily. In both the back and
the front there are gathers below the
yoke to eliminate strain. The sleeves,
too, are designed with elbow fullness
above a trinity fitted cuff. In the
skirt we find an interesting panel in
front, and a center seam in the back
A certain amount of fullnesS is pro-
vided at the bottom without taking
away from the modiShly slender ap-
pearance of the frock Black canton
crepe is the fabric that seems slated
for unusual popularity among women
WHO get only one or two dresses a
season, and wear them constantly.
This satisfactory material wears beau
tifully, and has the happy faculty of
looking smart at any hour Of the day.
In this dress it is combined with a
finely woven silver lame, for contrast
in the collar More practical fab
RIGS may be chosen, Of course, but the
vogue Of the moment is for rich metal
Evening star., 1934-09-02
Admiral and Mrs. Murhn
Guests at Old Point Party

OLD POINT COMFORT BEACH,
Va, September 1.-The most bril=
liant event of the season at the New
Chamberlin Hotel took place this
week when the officers attached to all
ships Of the U. S. Navy now in Hamp-
ton Roads were entertained at a
formal Navy ball on the roof garden
of the hotel. Preceding the ball Mr..
and Mrs. j. Wesley Gardner entertained
at dinner, at the New Chamberlin, for
the flag officers, captains and their
wives. Their guests, numbering 20,
we're joined later at the dance by
about 400 persons including a large
representation of officers from every
ship in port.
Among the dinner guests we're Rear
Admr. Orln @. Murfin, commanding
battleship division l. and Mrs MUIR
fin, who formerly lived in Washington:
Capt. William A. GlaSsford, as
SiStant chief of staff, and Mrs. Glass.
ford; Capt. HalSey Powell, chief Of
staff of the battle force; Capt. Elmer
E. CurtiSS, staff officer of the battle
force; Capt. Kenneth Whiting, COM
manding the U. S. S. Saratoga: Capt.
John S. Abbott of the u. S. S. New
York; Capt. David Med. LeBreton
OF the battleship Portland Capt. VIII
bur Van Auken of the u. S. S. Okla
homa: Comdr Joel w. Bunkley. and
Mrs. Edward Carter Martz, Harrison
burg, Va.
A similar bah and reception are
being planned Sunday evening. Sep
tember 3, at the hotel. one of the
numerous entertainments arranged
for fleet week" when the Secretary
Of the Navy, Mr.. Claude A. Swanson,
is expected to review the feet in
Hampton Roads.
DR.. Blair Spencer of Gloucester,
| Va. formerly of washington, and a
party of guests arrived at Old Point
Comfort Beach this week aboard his
schooner-yacht to visit his daughter,
Miss Mary Webb Spencer, who has
been at the New Chamberlin Hotel,
DR.. Spencer had as his sailing COM
panionS DR.. McCaw Thompkins ard
Mr.. Robert Henley, Richmond; MIR.
Bait Peachy and Mr.. Richard Henley,
Williamsburg, Va, and Mr.. John
| Vandergrift Summerlin of Norfolk.
Mrs. Clifford Pinchot, wife Of the
Governor of Pennsylvania, has ac-
cepted an invitation to stop at the
New Chamberlin Hotel Monday. She
will come to address the Central La
Dor Union of Newport News at their
annual Labor day celebration. An in
vitation also has been extended to
Gov. George c. Peery Of Virginia to
| stop at the hotel Labor day.
Maj. Gen. and Mrs. Henry D. Todd,
jr, and their daughter, Miss Harriet
Stewart Todd, have returned to
Washington after spending a month
with Maj. William Cooper Foote, U. S.
Army, at Fort Monroe, Old Point
Comfort. Miss Todd and Mai. Foote,
son Of Mrs. Foote of New York and
the late Brig. Gen. Morris Cooper
Foote, will be married Saturday after
noon, September 8, at S O'Clock in the
chapel of the Army War College.
| Col. Harold Edward Cloke, for three
and half years commanding the
harbor defenseS at Fort Monroe, gave
up his active command at the Old
Point Comfort artillery station this
week and has begun a months leave
before going to Fort Wingheld Scott
in California to command that sta
| ton.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

signer has interpreted successfully in
a long, silk fringe. Most hattering of
all is the minaret flare, also knee
length and frequently bordered with
fur. Double-tiered skirts have tunic
effect, and tunic aprons that cross
the front only are another noteworthy
variation. Occasionally you will sec
a hip-length peplum -tunic, beneath
which the skirt extends straight to
the knee, and then repeats the tunic's
circular fare.
No silhouette is more adaptable to
fabric contrasts or the use of exotic
materials. An all-over beaded tunic
may high light black velvet gown, or
silver sequins may create festive
sparkle over uncut velvet. The perfect
place to display the lovely sheen of
lame, the tunic is developed on many
beautiful dresses in gossamer metal
cloths or rich brocades, combined with
Evening star., 1934-09-02

dued thread OF metal. Satins are
striped and plaided with it, failles
have a metallic dot, taffetas have lovely
gold and silver patterns. and so do
velvets, the new stiffened sheers and
starched laces. Notice the formal
woolens-nearly all have q soft, metal
sheen.
Velvets rank next to the metals, with
nearly every Paris couturiere giving
them strong sponsorship, and almost
all American designers high lighting
them. The new supple Lyons type is
featured in formal suits, in black and
deeper jewel colors. Uncut velvet con-
tinues smart, and some mention is
made of transparent velvet, but with a
subdued luster. One Paris house in
cludes a moire velvet evening gown
as well as a black velvet, printed with
striking white fiorals.
The stiff fabrics which gave such
early promise are fulfilling their smart
destiny. Much is made Of moire, in
monotone and in faconne patterns
Taffetas continue important, particu-
larly in black and gold, while lacquered
and double-faced satins have popular
Winter ahead of them. Armured
sheers and sheer black lace, embroid-
cred in cellophane, were received with
enthusiasm at the openings.
AL that glitters is smart, but not
necessarily gold. Silvery metal pail
lettes are everywhere-in entire frocks
in trimmings, in capes, scarfs and
Jackets. Metal beads are making bid
for approval, with the result that you
are likely to choose an all-beaded
gown for a very grand, formal affair
Crepes, though not news, must not
be ignored. All have surface interest
pebbly, barky, family ribbed or bis
tered. Many Of these are used in
combination with more spectacular
fabrics-the lanes, sequins or heavy
satins.
4 LII wool, and less than yard wide
may sum up your evening dress
nicely this season. For wool is the
newest thing on the formal horizon
and If you think it incongruous, ii
is because you haven't seen the woolens
that are being used.
Chiffon weight, some Of them look
almost like silk, and they have the
added charm Of novelty. They are
perfect for the slim silhouette and
combine beautifully with the satin OF
lace which is frequently used to give
contrast to the frock top.
wool-mixed moire is a half-and-
half fabric with considerable fashion
interest. Ardanse uses it in an entire
evening frock, and again in a rather
Evening star., 1934-09-02

tailored blouse, which Is worn with q
black velvet or dull silk crepe skirt.
Lightweight versions of wool jerseys
and broadcloth are important-the
former in dynamic colors and con-
trasts, and the latter in black. Wide
MORE ribbons achieve smart strap
decollete for many of these frocks.
Soft, very dark shades are rivaled
only by the brilliant jewel shades, ex'
cepting, of course, the metallics, and
the ever-smart black and white.
There is q whole new range oi
greens that viii bear watching. These
begin with the very dark green, pine
tree shade, which is high lighted in
satin and velvet, and they work
through both yellow and blue-greer
tones to the pale, ethereal shades ol
the new lanes. Poison green is
named by Lucille Paray as an accent
for evening gowns. and a noteworthy
example is an aubergine frock witt
sash of two tones of poison green.
Soft deep reds, blues and browns, &
new blackberry shade, called blacl
tulip, plum and rich eggplant are i'm
portant Paris contributions among the
darker shades. Bright colors appeal
mostly in splasheS as exemplif1ed BY
one group of pale evening gowns which
employs rich and dynamic tones il
velvet sashes and decolletage accents
Pale touches frequently are found witt
black, as pale blue or blotting- paper
pink girdles on black frocks.
All the lovely pastels are shown IL
the lame confectionS, which Transform
the simplest of frockS into q thing O
shimmering beauty. Every wardrobe
should include at least one silvery bluC
or dull gold and pink.
X X
FROM the diminutive white fo'
capes, that look like luxurious
evening collars, to the full length
fitted coats of velvet or glittering lame
nearly every length is acceptable fol
evening wraps, and the silhouett,
varies almost as much as the length
Lavish fur trimming is significant o.
the new feeling for elegance.
Hip-length, boxy jackets in jewe
tones. or big sparkling paillettes, loose
smock-like coats that stop at the knee
tunics Of heavy brocades, with fitteC
waistlines and bell flares, knee or full
length, combine to present an inter.
esting picture. Some wraps are slim
and nodded, others are carefully
draped.
Much velvet of a supple Lyons type
is highlighted, while the novelty
quilted and dotted types, the latter
frequently ornamented with metal, art
important. Dilkusha employs chenille
plush in medieval-type evening wrap
with great success.
Taffeta evening capes, edged with
fur, are a feature of another Pari.
house. Blue dyed fox trims one CAPE
Of beige taffeta, while chinchilla ful
is combined effectively with gray
taffeta.
For less formal occasions, the full
length fitted coat of fine wool in blacl
is noteworthy.
! Copyright. 1934)
Evening star., 1934-09-02
Copyright. 1934.O

all the smart colors. At first glance
we merely regard it as an old friend
returned to the ranks. Not until we
detect the golden strands of the inter-
woven tinsel threads do we study it
more carefully. and see its possibili-
ties for hattery. This particular dress
could be made up enchantingly in it,
using duvetyne or velveteen for the
doublet idea.
Barbara Bell Pattern No. 1432-B is
designed in sizes IL to AZ. Size is
require 23s yards of 54-inch material,
"a yard OF 54-inch contrast.
Every Barbara Bell pattern has an
illustrated guide, which is easy to
follow.
Evening star., 1934-09-02
BY BARBARA BELL.

~ DfhAhAANhh ASAAAs
ORMAL fashions present lux
r urious panorama in antioipa-
ton of the new social season.
Slim and suave of silhouette,
evening gowns have a glamour
attuned to rich and glittering fabrics.
Evening wraps are replete with style
variation. as they are sumptuously
furred. Quantities of massive jewelry,
set with real and precious stones,
lend their brilliance to the Fall full
dress parade.
Look up or down for the style points
that make evening dresses exciting
this season. In between is a slim
graceful stem - and often nothing
more. If you look up, your attention
will be directed to a wealth of new
decolletage and shoulder treatments.
Necklines are high or low, V or square,
choked in front and waist-deep in
back, or draped with soft, deep folds,
both front and back.
In the recent Paris openings, Main
bocher showed a number of frocks
cut very low, with invisible shoulder
straps, as well as group with demure
Evening star., 1934-09-02
Fall Evening Modes Create Luxurious Picture

velvet, dull crepe or stiff satin.
Other interesting variations Of the
stem silhouette include the trend to-
ward high. fitted waistline. fiat pam
nier draperies at the hips, soft drapes
at the front or back of q frock, and
low inserts which animate the hem
line. Loose tulle panels, or a gown
composed entirely of black paillettes,
suggest q tendency to a freer skirt
swing.
+ + 4
OUTSTANDING in the list of i'm
portant formal fabrics are the
metal cloths. LANES are endless in
their variety, and extremely beautiful
in silvery and pinkish gold, soft blues
and faint greens. Rich Persian de-
signs are the theme of the heavy bro
cades, so important for jackets and
tunic wraps.
Nearly every fabric displays a sub
Evening star., 1934-09-02

Tuncs Sashed Hemn and Deep Decoges Play Variations
Simple Shouette-Gitng Metal Cloths Vevets and Stiff
Sponsored-Woo Evening Gowns Have New Importance
Ponounced-Bac Rvaed
Jewel Colors-Elegance Emphasized in Evening Wraps.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

Barbara Bell pattern No. I421-B is
designed in sizes IA to AZ. Size Is re-
quires 33s yards of 39-inch material,
5s yard of 39-inch contrast.
Evening star., 1934-09-02

l432-B. TOWN AND COUNTRY
FROCK, MADE IN ONE PIECE
There Is suggestion of the ancient
doublets about this extremely smart
town and country dress. Just to be
Evening star., 1934-09-02

BARBARA BELL,
Washington Star.
Inclose IS cents each in coins for
pattern No.. size. .......
pattern No. size. .......
pattern No. size. .......
pattern No. size. .......
pattern No.. size. .......
name.'.
aooreSS. '........s.,s...'
WRAP coins securely in paper)
Evening star., 1934-09-02

WHERE TO DINE.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1934-04-06
STRANGE, BUT TRUE

"Have you noticed very odd
thing about blunt people?" Freeman
asked his friend.
"Can't say that have" said the
latter. ''They are certainly rather
embarrassing at times"
Freeman nodded pensively.
eyes, but hasn't 1t ever struck you
that they are the ones who generally
come to the point first? he said.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1934-04-06
Prosaic Peggy

AS they stood looking out Of the
window on Christmas eve, Peggy's
sister said: 'sThat beautiful star is
your Heavenly Father wishing you a
Merry Christmas. Now what should
you do to show him how grateful you
areT'
"Wish him the same, s'pose," said
Peggy.-Boston Transcript.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1934-04-06

"The machine age is taking away
a vast number of jobs" said the me-
chanic.
"Don't | know it?" affirmed an Of
flee man. ut cost me my job"
"How is that?" inquired the first
speaker. "You have never done any
mechanical labor, have your"
mo-" he admitted, shut l got my
Job when the Republicans were In
power; and now the Democratic ma
chine has taken 1t away"
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1934-04-06
Not So Good

Neighbor-How is that incubator
doing which you bought?
Mrs. Newbride-I suppose it's all
right, but I'm little worried about
it. 1t hasn't laid single egg yet
Pathfinder Magazine.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1934-04-06
Scared

Mrs.-How do you like this hat,
Henry?
Mr.-Horrible!
Mrs.-Why didn't you tell me when
we were in the shop; that's the rea-
son I took you along.
Mr. was going to, but l saw by
her glare that the milliner was read
ing my mind.-Brooklyn Eagle.