Evening star., 1934-03-18
BY BARBARA BELL.

Janels, fschu-effect collars, fur-trlm-
med collars, unusual scarf collars VI
self-material and no collars at al
And a note of good cheer for tne
woman who is tired of rolling herseu
in her coat and holding 1t snugly III
place-there are buttons and outtoh-
holes both for practical use and trlm-
ming effect. chic
model-lightweight soft tweeds, broad
cloths. checked novelty weaVeS ana
crepes. Newest of ALL perhaps, is the
combination of contrasting materials.
Satin and taffeta are successfully COM
lhineo with cloth. And when SILK Is
introduced, it is not merely USED as
tscarf or rever trimming; it is gener-
Sously used throughout the top OF the
ftoat A coat in the Martial ct
tArmand collection illustrates what
new distinction this alliance acnleVeS'
OF black broadcloth, this full-iength
coat. lower wasted than most OF the
Spring models, has marrow coilar
'of black satin. The front bodice, DO
Hero in effect. gives the designer op-
lportunity to bring the satin INTO the
inicture and, as a final expert toucn'
1.-The odd, long, shaped button ana the
twisted girdle are in the contrasting
material.
Wide sleeves. set into dropped shou!-
der lines. are frequently made OF tai
lfeta. For afternoon wear this 1asnloh
has already been acclaimed, and as
the season advances no doubt the
lcrispness of the silk will make it even
more popular. A decorative touch,
added to many of the coats OF wool
and taffeta, is the quilted taHeta
scarf.
Faille or bengaline is also extensively
used in trimming Spring models, out
Paris has gone farther and Is showing
entire coats of this fabric. II early
tpredictions hold, the all-silk coat Will
Ihave greater prominence than it has
had since Victoria was Queen.
The demand for comfort in coats
has certainly been fulfilled. There is
a noticeable increase of width through
the bodice. the only exception being
an occasional princess model. This
new tullness is achieved in various
ways-by cut on the inside OF the
long sleeve, by fullneSs introduced
under the arm, by the dolman effect
and the short, circular top sleeve
While the swagger types OF full ana
shorter lengths are holding their
favor. it does seem as though two
,out of every three coat models are
jbelted in some way. And the tend
'ency is to pull the fullness to the
front. the belt aiding in keeping 1t
held in place.
ENSEMBLES for town wear have
IL reversed their color scheme. This
sseason the dress will be one Of sub
tdued dark color and the three-quar-
tier coat Of pastel shade. Black with
tdusky pink. navy with powder blue,
land the darkest of dark green with
tsoft blue green, are some of the color
combinations sponsored. And you will
like the gayety of this idea. AS a
general rule the dress is of silk crepe
land the coat Of lightweight wool.
lShoes will match frocks in color and
that's will match either the dresses or
coats.
Vivid contrasts are the mode Of
TODAY, but in her usual lenient way
fFashion does not dictate that the
yStartling contrasts Of dark frockS and
Eight coats must be followed. If this
inew note is not in accordance with
syour tastes, then turn to the redingote,
ia fashion first, if ever there was one
Here the outer garment is invariably
in a dark shade and the dress of
jprint, with background in the same
or lighter shade with decidedly con-
trasting designs.
For those who feel a coat Is not a
coat without fur, Paris has sanctioned
the use of fat fur for Spring wear.
But it is used sparingly. A touch on
lapels, a narrow band trimming the
edge of a rather full collar or the
waistband. or again it may be intro
duced on the pockets, but there is
never more of it than just enough
to label the coat fur trimmed. Indi-
cations are that the separate fur
scarf will not be popular for wear
with suits and coats this season.
However, there are few Spring
models shown, trimmed with fox and
kolinsky. Where these furs are used,
there is a decided tendency to edge
shawl collars with them, rather than
bring them close to the face.
az x x
THE woman whose dress budget has
been cut to minimum will do
well to look into the three piece suit.
While the majority of these are
shown in monotone tWeeds, there is
an increasing number of dressier fab
RIGS being used in this medium. They
are smart for all-day wear, and their
practicability is well demonstrated
when the coat is shown over an at
tractive print dress. Many of these
suits are designed with tailored, hip
ilength jackets and straightline skirts.
The top coat is usually of the three
quarters Swagger type, and not infre-
quently is closed at the throat with
the cuff -link-b button closing, jaunty
closing and very new one.
In herrlngbone weaves or nubby
tweeds, these suits are excellent for
sports and spectator wear, but they
are also displayed as just the thing
for town. The business woman will
find such a costume an important
adjunct to her wardrobe, and the
woman who has frequent errands
about town will be unable to resist
the comfort of them.
Browns and oxford grays are lend
ing COlOTS LII ILlS lieu, UuI gIeeIlS,
rust and soft, pinkish brick shade
are shown by number Of the leading
shops.
While this season is a colorful one
and contrast in every type of costume
is favored by fashionables, the dress
up coats are designed for the greater
number in navy and black. There
are some models, to be sure, in beige
sgray-blue and greige, that combination
of gray and beige. A color combination
which sounds not too attractive in
words, but which really stands out
because of its neWnesS and Smartness,
is the beige coat with trimming of
black fur. Worn with a black frock