davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1934-08-19

STRAIGHT LINES FROM
SHOULDER TO HEMLINE-Rich
and beautiful fabrics are an out
standing feature Of the clothes for
Fall, and the exploitation Of them is
given full play, as If by prearrange-
nnent, in the straightline cut Of the
gowns seen in the advance showings
to the press So glorious is the tex
ture of the new velvets, crepes. lanes
and sheer woods that to mar them
with fuasiness would be desecration.
The model shown In 1873 fol-
lows the plain lines that distinguish
the more expensive dresses in the
new collections. Interest is centered
on the shoulder lines, the small re-
verS, and In the dropped arm-hole
which traces its origin to the Nippon
influence. Plated insets in the two
gore skirt are the pleasing alternative
for the straight, restricted lines that
many women abhor because they are
uncomfortable. Slashes in the back
Of the neck were never more preva-
lent. Many Of the extreme models
show them down to the waist. A
happy medium. however, is struck in
this afternoon dress. For general
semi-formal wear frocks of this type
are usually worn 10 inches from the
fiocr-slightly shorter than those of
last season; the idea behind 1t being
that the coat worn over 1t. when the
season advan es, viii cover 1t en-
tirely. II one Of the smart waist
Evening star., 1934-08-19

CLOSING-It is not often that we
find such a combination of advanced
trends evidenced in the models of
late Summer. This little frock does
more than its share in bringing to us
news from the front lines of fashion.
Its silhouette is slim and straight, its
shoulder smooth, and at the neck
there is that little touch of comph
Gated cutting that stamps the design
as very new. Buttons are, of course,
the pet trimming Of the season. Here
we have them extending below the
normal waistline just as they do in
the street clothes shown in the Win
ter collections. This dress Is perfect
for immediate and later wear. The
pattern Is smartly cut. the instruc-
tions are clear, and the yardage re-
quirements definitely economical.
Make it in silk, synthetic, cotton or
wool.
Barbara Bell Pattern No. 1387-B is
designed in sizes IL to AZ. Size 16
requires 37s yards of 3e-inch mate
rial, n yard of contrast.
1394-B-SPORTS FROCKS TAKE
ON NEW STYLES OF FASTENING
AND COLLARS FLARE AMBI-
TIOUSLY TOWARD SHOULDER
The ones who are fortunate enough
to have their vacation to, look forward
to will be sure to want this practical
frock for morning wear. It teens
with all the points of interest that
make the new Fall clothes SO fasci-
nating-high collar line, irregular
shape of armhole (not hard to make),
slim skirt, with cores in front, and a
yoke treatment that Is important.
This dress can be made in any of the
new sports fabrics-the more modish
they are the better for you. In wool
jersey. which. by the way, viii be
Evening star., 1934-08-19

length fur dohlmans Is worn the
trim short skirt will blend into the
street scene with no loss of line.
Barbara Bell Pattern No. l379-B
is designed in sizes 81 TO a.. Size "a
Q6) requires 334 yards of 39-inch
material; 3s-yard of contrast.
1377-B-COVERED SHOULDERS
TOP FAvORITE EVENING DRESS
ES OF GIRL WHO Is THIN-Crisp
lace, showing traceries of tinted eel
lophane, is used in the semi-formal
evening dress with cape-line tenden-
cies SEN on the charming person
pictured in 1377-B. This type of
dress is a useful one to have. It fits
into most evening backgrounds as
though to the manner born, eclipsing
in every way the skimpy, economical
effects of a season ago. Top interests
again holds its own In after-6
fashions. The loveliest dance dresses
that we have seen so far are the lace
ones made instep length, and worn
over a taffeta slip that rustles.
This frock Is especially good to take
travelling 1t can be made In any Of
the latest lace patterns that come
with accents Of silver and gold, alone
or assorted, or in the new all-overs
that show tracings of cellophane that
will glisten like fairyland under the
evening lights. Scorn not this fanci-
full newcomer In the field of glamor-
Gus fabrics, for it Is used with un-
erring restraint, and In no instance
does it dominate the lacy background
1t is woven into. The price Of these
new materials is reasonable so that
this dress comes within the range of
possibility for most of us. (See
moderate yardage requirements.)
Barbara Bell Pattern No. l377-B Is
designed In sizes IL. Is. Is, II and 10
Evening star., 1934-08-19

ever SO smart now and make nice
occasional frocks to wear under coats
later on.
Barbara Bell Pattern No. 1394-B is
designed in sizes IA to 4S Si7n IS
requires 81 yards of 39-inch material.
141s-B-W WRAP AROUND LINES
IN MATRON'S NEW FALL DRESS
For the figure that is no longer
slender the most becoming effects can
be achieved if dresses are chosen that
show unbroken lines sweeping with
smart continuity from shoulder to
hem, DEPRESSING only once or twice
to introduce those interesting diagonalS
that take the attention away from
the actual girth of the figure.
The surplice dress under discussion
exemplifles this technique in a clever
way. Starting off with all the COM
ort-insuring lines of wrap-around
frock, the front is made with an un-
evenly balanced collar that tapers to
nothing on one side, and on the other
terminates in flattering jabot of
brief proportion The waistline is
smooth, and WITHOUT interruption
with the belt extending only across
the back This detail is seen in
many of the smartest Fall clothes. 1t
has the merit of giving slender ap-
pearance just where you most want it.
The sleeves show the new ease and
fullness below the elbow, and are
finished of prettily with fitted lines
at the wrist. The backs of the Fall
dresses for daytime boast of little in
terest; usually they are unadorned.
The reports one hears to the con-
trary refer to elaborate afternoon
gowns, and formal evening dresses.
where shirred sections, sla-h-d hem
lines, and shapely inse-s give elaborate
distinction to the back.
Evening star., 1934-08-19

chaste simplicity Of silhouette. Belts
are optional. You will see many If
them because the majority of figures
demand them, and they seem to tone
in with the new bulkiness above the
waistline.
Where shoulders were wide and full
last year. this years are normal. Ex-
treme sleeves have passed into the
limbo of forgotten fashions, replaced
by simple classic types, which, when
they introduce detail at all, do so at
the elbow or below.
Width at the top of the silhouette
is achieved by sleeves cut in one with
the back of the coat, kinono style.
end by deeper and wider armholes,
dclman styles and raglan cuts. It was
inevitable that the WIDER -armhole
frocks should necessitate a similar
line in coats, and various novel ways
have been found to introduce it with
out monotony.
But it is at the neckline that coat
Evening star., 1934-08-19

OF the greatest importance this
season, are the texture, weave, color
and quality of the fabric used in the
dress. Crepey surfaces are a safe
selection for the larger woman; that
is, If she steers her course away for
the tree-bark crepes and chooses those
with rich mat quality that defies
reflected lights. Contrast at the neck
is the rule and not the exception this
Fall. Various fabrics are popular for
this. Velvet satin, metallic cloth and
all-over lace prove their decorative
worth as materials that bring gay,
bright touches to the neckline Any
one Of them is regarded highly be-
cause of the obliging way in which
the new seasons offerings combine
with the latest silks and woods.
Barbara Bell pattern No. l418-B
is designed in sizes "a to A. Size
SO requires 32s yards of 39-inch ma
terial; q yards of 39-inch contrast.
Every Barbara Bell pattern has an
Illustrated instruction guide that is
easy to follow.
Evening star., 1934-08-19

years Size Is years requires 4 yards
of 36-inch material. yard Of 36-inch
material for underbody.
91-B-RIBBED SPORTS FAB
RIG GIVES UNUSUALLY SLENDER
LINES TO THIS EXTRA-FROCK-
Contrary to what the store windows
would have us believe, weeks and
weeks OF mild if not hot weather must
be gone through yet before we be-
gin to do more than think about the
dark, long-sleeved, high-necked fash
ions that are being reserved for our
enjoyment at later day. The Sum-
mer series OF gala week ends that
September brings call for an extra
dress or two to finish the season
with. Something tnat can be sewed
up quickly without looking that way.
This particular model is a joy to
make. The yoke-sleeve combination
eliminates the fitting difficulties often
encountered at the shoulder line. The
notched revers look professional, Civ
ing the tailored aspect that will be
as smart next Summer as 1t Is now
The back of the dress is plain while
the front achieves its fullness from
two insets that are very easy to put
in. We recommend this dress highly
to those fortunates who have not
taken their holiday yet. College
girls. too, get great deal of wear
from this type Of frock during their
first weeks back on the campus. 1t
may be made of any good sports fab
ric-heavy silk, cotton or smart wool
Barbara Bell Pattern No. l39l-B is
designed In sizes IL to 20. Size 16
(3D requires 33s yards of 36-inch
material.
l387-B-FROCK WITH SMALL
REvERs AND FRONT BUTTON
Evening star., 1934-08-19

chilla cat or ki'skin, when fur yokes
descend over the tops Of the sleeves,
or when panels hang loose or form
part of the back of the coat. One
cape-coat seen recently introduced
pointed skunk on tweed, the fur as
suming various purposes as the cape
is manipulated in different ways
once as a waist-deep stole, and again
as banding for the edge Of the cape.
Fur cuffs are back again, as narrow
bands or applied melon, types.
Blond furs on black coats are hav-
ing revival, and their flattery
destines them for considerable pop
ularity, particularly with the younger
set. Badger. natural lynx and wolf
are among the most important. More
exciting, however, is a blond fox"
which ponsors creamy beige shade
with q little black in the overhairs.
This Is not limited to use on black
coat, but goes well with light colors.
Dyed furs are the big novelty of
the season. White fox is dyed in
brown, sable, taupe and slate-blue
shades, the last mentioned very good
with gray. Paris has much to say
about dyed fox for evening in such
odd shades as pale blue, pale pink,
Evening star., 1934-08-19
Warrenton Residents
Schedule Many Changes

WARRENToN, Va. August 1s.--Mr.
and Mrs. Montgomery Murdaugh OF
Memphis, Tenn. were In Warrenton
tives at The Plains. Va.
tives at the Plains. Va.
Mrs. J. c. walraven. Mrs. g. 8.
Welton and Mr.. Courtney Welton, jr,
Of Richmond. Va, were in Warrenton
this week.
DR.. and Mrs. Holcombe Robertson
and their son and daughter Of Phila-
delphia, who are visiting relatives
here. spent last week at Old Point
Comfort and Richmond.
Mr.. and Mrs. Samuel Wagner, Sd,
and their infant son, Samuel. 9TH,
who have been at the home Of Mrs.
Wagner's parents, Or. and Mrs. r. E.
Ferneyhough, since their marriage.
left this week to make their home In
Philadelphia.
Miss Gertrude Robertson and Miss
Austine Mcdonnell of Warrenton
spent last week at the Hotel Thayer,
West Point N. Y, to attend the Mill
tary Academy hops.
Miss Bessie WickS entertained at q
buffet supper this week In honor OF
Rev. w. @. Pendleton, D. D., and Mrs.
Pendleton of Covington, KY, who are
spending their vacation in Warren
ton.
Mrs. w. r. Robins and Mrs. @. L.
Davenport left Tuesday to visit the
Chicago Exposition. Mrs. Turner
Foster of The Plains is keeping house
for her mother, Mrs. Robins. at Brit
ton Hall during her absence.
Mrs. A. E. De Miller and three
daughters of Biloxi. Miss, are the
guests of Mrs De Miller's parents, Mr..
and Mrs. Frank Fletcher.
Miss Ida Evans, who recently re-
turned from a two months visit TO
friends in the West Indies, resumed
her work as librarian in the Warren
ton Library August is. Miss Evelyn
Duncan, who had substituted for her
in her absence, left Thursday for
visit to Richmond, Va.
Miss Margaret Helm of Alexandria,
who Is taking the Summer course at
the University Of Virginia. and her
brother, Mr.. Erasmus Helm, were in
Warrenton the last week end.
Miss Edith Butler has returned from
a visit of some weeks to her nephew.
DR.. Butler Murray, and Mrs. Murray.
at Pocomo Manor, Pa.
Miss Margaret Robertson left this
week to visit. her aunt, Mrs. Henry
Hoyt of Greenwich, Conn, and from
there will go to Boston, Mass, to
visit friends. She will be absent about
q month.
Rev. Paul D. Bowden, district presi-
dent of Rotary for Virginia. recently
visited a number of Rotary Clubs in
the southeastern part Of the State.
Evening star., 1934-08-19

back in full force for Fall, it can be
tremendously smart. The bows may
be of metal cord, knotted on the ends
Most jersey this season has inter-
woven threads of tinsel that is
brought out by metal trimmings, such
as entire belts Of linked chains or
hard metallic bands of polished
chromium or brass. The is indeed a
year for glistening Moyen-age trim
mings that intrigue us through the
modern spirit with which they are
interpreted. This particular dress
can be as smart in black and gold as
in green and silver; that is. if you
choose to have 1t in wool. In cotton
it is as perfect in white as in navy
blue. Silks and satins for Fall come
in strong, bright colors. They are
Evening star., 1934-08-19
Draped Furs Distinguish Winter Coat Sly Y|es|

sized and little. Watch for the use
of brown as dominating color.
Brown with black, brown with moss
green, brown with bright red and
brown with fog blue are combina-
tions which will appeal to every one
For town. nothing is smarter than
black and white tweeds. Many women
are buying a matching skirt with
their coat, for, as everybody knows,
this Fall is suit season. If the coat
is untrimmed, wear your own furs;
If trimmed, the fur is sure to be one
of the soft velvety types, or blond
dyed fox wolf or lynx.
Tweed coats are simple as TO sill
houette, the majority worn with leath-
er belts. The college girl will like the
double breasted REFER. the classic
English balmacaan or 'the plain belted
topcoat right now, and she will choose
a monotone tweed in bright or moss
green, or a reddish brown. Later she
will own a fur trimmed tweed for foot
ball, with a fur or removable plaid
blanket lining for warmth. Checks,
of course, will be favorites, or subdued-
lOOh11e P4dluo, d1lu II oIlC ICJCCIS u
blond. fur she will cling to the old
faithfuls, raccoon or beaver.
\ X n
MILLINERY fashions have a way
AVA of saving us from the completely
theatrical with simple little hat sill
houette that everybody can wear.
This year it's the fedora, which is back
IN our midst with all its masculine
jauntineSs, plus a new penchant for
pert quill trimmings in the brightest
of colors
The perfect complement to the new
Fall tweeds, 1t confines itself to such
sporting mediums as velours, smooth
and hairy felts. We saw one recently
In taupe velours, its trim Side-rolling
brim edged with grosgrain ribbon and
a bold orange quill drawn through Sits
Evening star., 1934-08-19
Mrs. Birch Honor Guest
In Falls Church Home

Miss Mary Birch and Miss Essie
Birch gave a supper party last Sunday
evening at their home in Falls Church,
Va, in honor of their mothers birth
day anniversary. Many relatives and
friends of Falls Church were present.
and among the out-of-town guests
were Mr.. and Mrs Paul Crossman OF
Erie, Pa; Mrs. Eva B. Weir of Okla
homa City, Okla; Mr. and Mrs. Otis
Shaw, Mrs. Bessie w. Palm and Miss
Frances Crossman Of Washington,
D. G.
Evening star., 1934-08-19

fashions display their greatest ver-
satility. Supple furs have been handled
with skill and originality, scanned,
curved, rippled and draped to provide
soft contours and flattering foils for
the face. Luxurious pouch collars Of
sable, mink, beaver or Persian lamb
stand away from the neck in a regal
frame, and are pushed sharply for
ward In q modern rendition of the
windblown line. Fox, blond wolf or
natural lynx curve about the shoulders
and down the fronts In pert question
marks, as the coat revers lie open.
Revers and jabot collars Of squirrel,
mink and kolinsky that ripple to the
waist, fur plastrons, vestees, furred
yoke and sleeve treatments are all
indicative of a new dressms ker tech
nique with furs that augurs well for
this seasons fur coats. Even scarfs
and cape collars have something new
to offer; the former q wider line, and
the latter q rufled edge or a pushed
forward movement.
DRAMATIC effects are achieved
,,hen both sleeves and collar are
of some interesting fur. such as chin
Evening star., 1934-08-19

directly across the front. Another in
PRODUCES the Alpine touch, with a
bright red quill at the back Of q soft,
slate-gray model.
The degree Of formality Of ones cos
tune is apt to depend upon the width
of ones pancake beret these days. II
it's formal dinner party the correct
thing is done In a big way, as in a
black cushion beret with sequin top,
worn with black sequin muff, which
was noted recently. If it's q shopping
tour, small sizes are smarteSt, with
many Of them looking so much like
tricornes that It's hard to tell which
is which. Many in velvet and soleil
droop in pancake fashion over the face
and are crushed up high in back, often
with a bandeau. Every important
Paris millinery house has sponsored
the pancake beret in one version or
another, and everywhere you will see
adaptations Of models by Descat,
Mado, Agnes, Patou and Maria Guy.
-
GLOVES are creeping toward the
- elbow in eight-button lengths,
with new width at the top. Fashion
calls them "swagger" and they're first
aid to arms, which need relief below
the shorter sleeves that continue
smart for Fall.
Paris likes the glove in the same
material as the frock. and suede gloves
the same color as the rest Of the cos
tune. That means that there is much
black and much red-brown in advance
glove collections.
There's a short as we'll as long to
the glove story. One-button lengths
are important, too, for the spotlight
ing of the suit for Fall makes the
short tailored glove special feature.
Suede, pigskin and the smooth leath-
ers, many with handStitching in self
color, are particularly stressed.
(Copyright, 1o34.)
Evening star., 1934-08-19

Ripple Rever Collars and Furred Sleeves
Indicative of New Dressmaker Technique-Dyed
Fox and Blond Furs mportant-Velvety Wool
ems and Preference for Black Seen in Dress
Coats-Tweeds Favor Green and Raspberry
Leading Fall Millinery Types-Gloves Have
Swagger Lines.
Evening star., 1934-08-19
Policeman Costs 1922.

1t now costs $5.22 q day to hire a
policeman wearing plain clothes In
London, and $190 extra when he
wears morning or evening dress.
Evening star., 1934-08-19


all Of the fox family are important.
Persian lamb continues smart Vel
vety frlrs will be much in evidence,
judging from the number of coats
which show mole, nutria, beaver, seal
dyed muskrat and chinchilla rat, the
last seen mostly in exclusive collec-
tions.
FORMAL coat woolens lean toward
the velvety, but nearly every one
has some sort of surface Interest,"
chenille stripe, raised cord, a mate
laSse suggestion or faint diagonal.
The best news about them is that
they're warmer than usual-no more
shivering, as the weather does a dive
below zero!
A note to watch is the use of cello
phane to give rich metallic look to
dressy woolens. A fine diagonal stripe
is featured by one American manu-
facturer, and the French imports
stress this idea continually. Diagon-
ais, by the way. are numerous this
season. Blistered weaves, too, pro-
vide surface variation.
In the smooth woolens, one sees
suede cloths. Broadcloth is only
very high fashion for day wear. al
though quite bit Is sponsored for
long evening coats.
Indispensable to the smart woman's
wardrobe Is the black coat-not only
because 1t Is smartest, but because it
permits her a wide choice of frock
colors and accessories. Reddish
browns and those with a wine cast
are very good, and there are a few
very deep browns that allow almost
the same versatility Of costume as
black. Dark green's have much to
recommend them. particularly those
with blush cast. You will see only
few blues and q little gray, for
black. as we have said before, holds
the fashion spotlight.
** -
TwEEDS are everybody's favorite-
for town, country and college
wear. One look at the new tweeds,
and you will see why. Such colors
as q new crushed raspberry shade,
such weaves as chenille and simu-
lated hand-knits, such striking plaids
and sporty checks are trresistable-
especially when combined with fat
tering blond furs, as so many Of them
are in the new slim -silhouetted coats.
Soft Shetland weaves predominant.
Some are hairy, some are smooth, and
companion types are excellent for the
dress-and-coat ensemble. Monotones
are best, unless one can afford one
Of the beautiful multicolor British
types.
AL checks are good-big, medium
Evening star., 1934-08-19
BY BARFA1A BELL.

VX YERE you thinking of put
W. ting of buying that new
w Winter coat until next
year? Better not, for last
seasons models look sadly outnloded
when brought face to face with those
now being launched in anticipation
of zero weather. Striking innova-
tions in silhouette and fabric, to-
gether with ingenious manipulations
of luxury furs, create distinct 1884
feeling of elegance and formality in
dress costs-and this does much to
increase the shoppers interest in cur
rent August sales.
One inch longer is the rule for the
formal coat. Lines are slim and
fitted, and frequent suggestions of the
princess line denote emphasis on a
Evening star., 1934-08-19

(Copyright. 1934.)
Evening star., 1934-05-07
NEW PEAK SET
AT STEEL PLANTS
Output Hits go Per Cent
Mark, or Highest Since
June, 1880.
BY the Associated Press.

BY the Associated Press.
CLEVELAND, May THE largest
orders for structural steel in IL
months helped last week to send the
steel industry to so per cent pro-
duction level, the highest since June,
1880, the magazine Steel says
Seasonal construction work came
to the front vigorously, placing 43,4l4
tons on mill books. well distributed
throughout the country, and including
substantial tonnages for industrial
buildings the magazine adds.
Although automobile production
schedules this month are slightly
lower than in April, SO far there has
been no diminution in releases from
manufacturers, evidently endeavoring
to accumulate stocks.
Strikes in this industry are clear
ing up; however. the labor outlook in
steel is obscured by the threat Of the
Amalgamated Association of Iron,
Steel and Tin Workers to strike. and
an actual walkout of 5000 iron ore
miners in the South"
Evening star., 1934-05-07
COCA.COLA DIRECTORS
VOTE FOR DIVIDENDS
Nv the Associated Press.

ATLANTA, May THE Coca Cola
Co. today announced its directors has
declared the regular quarterly divi-
dend of $3.50 a share ON common
stock and the regular semi-annual
dividend of ST so a share on class "A"
stock
Both dividends. declared at a meet
ing of the directors in Wilmington,
Del, today. are payable July 2 to
stockholders of record June IL.
Evening star., 1934-05-07
VISIBLE GRAIN SUPPLY.

NEW YORK, May CP-The Wis
ible supply of American grain shows
the following changes. in bushels:
Wheat decreased 2,438, 900. corn de-
creased 2,436,Oo0, oats decreased l.
872 900, rye decreased 29l 900, bar
ley decreased 10000.