davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1934-10-28

So normally the English women dress in Gothic
style.
But it is the history of England that after
a great catastrophe the English are so ex-
hausted emotionally that they turn to a hard,
cool art which is restful. When England
covers emotionally, it goes right back to Gothic
art.
"YoU see this as far back as the fourteenth
century. After the great plague of the
Black Death, Gothic church architecture
adopted the celebrated perpendicular In the
exhausted period following the Napoleonic wars
and the World War, art in England tended to
the vertical
You find it in the women's clothes too.
After great upheavalS men are apt to discard
their religion and women their underclothing.
When the mood changes-and it is changing
now-men resume their religion and women
their undies and their corsets.'
Here the writer interrupted him to ask the
age-old question:
do women dress to attract men or to make
their sisters envious?"
1T is due to one and the same cause" said
the doctor. "They want to attract the men
and, at the same time, excel their sisters"
Another question:
I'm America and in Europe there have been
great discussions recently as to whether the
male or the female body is the more beautiful"
Said Dr. Cunnington:
'Of course, the male body is the more beau
tiful, as the Greeks long ago discovered. The
male body is upright and tends to be we'll
balanced. The female body is top-heavy, with
its wide hips and short legs going down to a
small base.
In the Garden of Eden Eve discovered this
and covered herself up. She did this not
as sex protection, but to conceal that top-heavy
body That was why skirts were invented"
Evening star., 1934-10-28

I put this question 70 DR.. c.
Willett Cunnington of London, perhaps the
greatest authority the psychology and phi
loSophy of dress in the world today. The
answer came without an instant's hesitation
Because" said he, woman is not naturally
an artist. Men are interested in the technique
of dress as an art. They look at it imper-
sonaIy Women are not interested in the art
of dress as a technique. They are only inter-
ested in what suits them personally.
When woman Gays dress Is beautiful,
you know jolly well she means it would suit
her figure, face and general makeup. She
feels she would look nice in it."
In his professional hours DR.. Cunnington
Is very busy physician. In his off-time he
is an equally busy student and collector of
women,s clothes. He specializes in those worn
by the English middle classes in the nineteenth
century. He has been at it for years and now
has q collection bigger than those of all the
public museums of London put together.
So much is this the case that he had to
build an annex to his handsome home in North
London to accommodate them. He has more
than 400 dresses more than 100 hats, bonnets
and caps, and huge collection OF parasos,
shoes underwear, rouge and other facial make
I'D artificial boSomS, false hair, bustles and all
the other things with which women used to
beautify themselves.
NR. CUNNINGTON does not collect clothes
- in the same spirit with which some men
collect glass or pottery. They are merely his
raw material for the study of social history OF
the nineteenth century in England.
Long ago." said Dr. Cunnington, 81 came
30 the conclusion that fashion is taste shared
BY q large number of people for short space
OF time, because it is an unconscious expression
of their mental attitude. This was especially
30 of the upper and middle classes OF the
nineteenth century. Such variations as are
most marked are caused by social and economic
changes, but all through, in her slavery to
fashion, woman is always dominated by one
purpose-sex attraction.
1.-The average nineteenth century woman had
but one career-marriage. So the average un-
married girl sought to convey by her appear
ance the ideals admired by the men OF her
time The married woman sought to express
the rank, wealth and standing of her husband.
IF men expected women to be dignifed,
then dignifed they were in their dress and de-
pertinent. If men admired dolls, lol women
became dolls There was period when men
admired ladylike languor. That was the swoon-
ing period for women, the sO-caDed green
sickness period.
To-day men believe in slick efficiency. This
b reflected in the way the women of today
have been dressing There is no absolute
standard for woman's dress because it is
smile at Yesterdays fashion as being funny or
grotesque. you are also smiling at yesterdays
ideals. Tomorrow people will smile at the
dresses of today.
'T started collecting womens clothes be-
mas psychology. I wanted to know what the
Evening star., 1934-10-28

upper and middle classes really were like
came to the conclusion that the noveliSts were
all liars Historians only dealt with the great
people, with political policies and with wars.
"IT WAS not so expensive to collect the
dresses and other things as you may mag
inc. In the first place, they were not so
scarce that they had great commercial value.
Some were given me. Others I got cheaply.
I confined myself to the nineteenth century
because it was a century in which many fashion
magazines were published, something that was
not true of preceding centuries. So I also
collected fashion magazines and have q big
library of them
THE fashion magazines of the nineteenth
century not only described the dresses that
were worn then, they reflected the feeling
Evening star., 1934-10-28
Interesting facts about fashions
from one Of the worlds greatest
authorities on the philosophy
and the psychology of dress
BY MILTON BRONNER.

LONDON, october 19, 1884.
IN OW is it that while clothes play
al such an important part in the
life of women, most Of the
1 famous dressmakers of all time
have been men?"
Evening star., 1934-10-28

"Euer since Epe, ,UOm~
an, has perceived the
necessity Of attracting
men by s,oathing her
body in a sentimental
haze Of romance. =.
but uith the other
half Of her mind she
has a tendency to tear
things off,"
Evening star., 1934-01-24
EARTHQUAKE TOLL
SAID TO Be 25,0()|)
indian Rajah Says Rehabi|i.
tation Work Will Require
Many Years.
~ the Associated Press.

" the Associated Press.
CALCUTTA, January 24-An ap-
palling toll beyond any previously hint
ed may be reached in India's earth
quake dead, it was indicated today
when the Rajah of Monghyr said
deaths in Monghyr alone have reached
$4,000.
1t will be weeks, he added, before
ruins can be removed to reveal the in
calculable bodies buried by the earth
Quakes last week which shook the re-
gion during the important MoSlem fes-
tival of Eioul Fitr The rajah predicted
two generations will pass before the
devastated areas can be rehabilitated.
(The district of Monghyr is in North
eastern India in the Bhagalpur division
of Bihar and Orissa. 1t has an area
of 1927 square miles and is divided by
the Ganges)
An unnamed engineer was quoted to-
day as having declared after a survey
that the names of both Monghyr and
Muzaffarpur might as well be erased
from the map.
Authorities generally appear anxious
to conceal the true proportions of the
disaster, but nothing can hide the fact
that it is Indias biggest calamity in
generations.
Thousands who escaped with their
lives have been utterly rulned-their
homes destroyed and lands torn.
The general administration in Bihar
Province is at a standstill, due to dam
age to government buildings-damage
estimated in one town alone at f250.000.
Bihar now is a province of tents. with
thousands of homes demolished. Relief
measures, however, are reported to be
adequate. The public has responded
generously to calls for help.
Property Damage Heavy.
NEW DELHI, India, January "a
P).-The home member for India, re-
plying to a question in the legislative
assembly today, said the Bihar provin-
cial government hopes deaths from last
weeks earthquakes will not exceed
1000.
He added, however, that it was i'm
possible to estimate accurately at pres
ent.
One of the gravest aspects of the sit
uation was the destruction of half the
populous districts sugar mills, he said.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

one almost $4,ooo,ooo. and finally one
signed in 1881 meant at that time
probably more than $10O, ,000, 900 worth
of trade in the 10-year period"
5000 Jobs in Agreement.
With the depression on, the 1891
agreement meant. Litchfield told the
examiner. that Goodyear would be able
to keep 5000 men employed.
From the stockholders view, in my
30 years experience in business, don't
know Of any contract that has been 80
beneficial to them" he added.
A charge that the millions Goodyear
spent in erecting Gadsden, Ala, fac
tory was part of the consideration paid
for the Sears contract was made dur
ing Litchfield's testimony concerning
correspondence with Sears officials six
years ago.
When Haycraft asked Litchfield for
a copy Of the study made by engineers
before building the Southern plant and
Goodyear lawyers objected, Examiner
Bennett interposed: do you mean to
show that erection Of the Gadsden
plant was one Of the considerations Of
the tire contract?"
Haycraft replied that it was an ele-
ment.
Litchfield testified that a Southern
plant was discussed with Goodyear di-
rectors before Sears ofhcials urged such
8 plant.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Postmaster General Walter F. Brown,
shortly before leaving Office last March,
had ordered destruction in the Post
Once Department furnace OF certain
off1cial files bearing on the contracts
Brown last week handed to Postmaster
General Farley two official files which
he said he had been amazed" to find
among his personal papers. He indi-
Gated these were the missing files re-
ferred to by witnesses
Rlstlne was appointed ito review the
testimony" and any other evidence
which may be available. and ito con-
duct all legal proceedings which may
be found to be necessary"
Reed Filibuster Charged.
Ristine was at his home in Lexing-
ton, MO, when notified of his appoint
ment last Saturday. He hastened dis
position OF pending personal business in
his Lexington law office in order to
come here today to begin his study of
the airmail case.
The newly appointed assistant 20 the
Attorney General is leading member
o. the Missouri bar, World War vet
eran and former foot ball star.
The Senate investigators we're not in
session today. At yesterdays hearing
they were told how Senator Reed, Re
publican, of Pennsylvania spoke against
time on the Senate floor in an effort to
permit the Post Office Department to
award an ocean mail contract to a line
without a ship.
A. j. Ball, general foreign freight
agent for the Pennsylvania Railroad,
described Reeds filibuster, which was
made only few days before the Hoo
yer administration left office.
Reed, in Philadelphia yesterday. ad-
mitted he had filibustered, but said he
was motivated by a desire to advance
the interests of the port of Philadel-
phia.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
End of, Prohibition Era Hurts
"Art'' of Painting Black Eyes
''PeOple Don't Smack Each Other around
Like They Used to- Borery Expert
in Camouflage Laments.
BY the Associated Press

BY the Associated Press.
NEW YORK. January 24.-Rocks
Grillo. whose business card reads BLACK
eyes made natural" looked out on the
Bowery from his unique emporium yes
terday and announced he was very, very
disappointed in prohibition repeal.
Il thought" he chided, that when
the boys began hitting it up again they
would recapture some of their old en-
thusiasm for black-eye collecting.
But SUCH" he added, "is not the
case.
And my art suffers"
Rocks, who is known up and down
the Bowery for his aowery speech as
we'll as for his ability to restore onyx
optics to their normal appearance,
studied his f1ngertips thoughtfully.
Used to Make Money.
1--WE must be undergoing some deep
seated sociological metamorphosis." he
said at length. People don't smack
each other around like they used to.
New Year day, the biggest day of
the year, had only nine custom clients.
Why, my friend, 1 can remember the
time when We took in $40 a day, not
counting the tips. Now if I average
that much a week, aside from the
barbering, consider myself lucky"
Rocks inherited his black eye mend
ing the technique from the late Louis
Alterisi, who practiced the art from the
Evening star., 1934-01-24

time of the great blizzard of '88 until
ne died year ago. Alterisi learned the
trick from an old German photog-
rapher who had shop across the
street.
The treatment consists of reducing
the swelling with the aid of hot towels
and messages, and then painting over
the discolored area. It is the mixing
and applying of the paints that requires
the hand of an artist.
Has Artists Temperament.
"No matter how subtly tinted, there
is no skin cannot match" said Grillo,
except that Of Chinese. don't know
why. but I've never been able to do
anything for the Chinese"
Grlllo, whose art has made him as
temperamental as az opera singer. said
If he makes a mistake in mixing his
paints he just has to quit for the day.
Il go all to pieces" he explained.
Although his shop is in what former
ly was one of the toughest districts in
New York. people come from a wide
radius, seeking relief from the effects
of dumping into cellar doors, etc." in
the old days it was visited regularly by
John L. Sullivan, Bob Fitzsimmons and
Jim Jeffries.
Grillo has three BARRIERS in his shop,
and he himself turns to the scissors
and razors now and then, but his heart
is not in it.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
NEWSPAPER GUILD
OPPOSES PULITZER
New York Unit Protests to Roose.
velt and Johnson-Asks
Official to Resign.
By the Associated Press.

BY the Associated Press.
NEW YORK, January 24.-The News
paper Guild of New York announced
yesterday it had sent a formal letter OF
protest to President Roosevelt and Gen
Hugh S. johnson against Ralph Pulit-
zer's appointment as deputy N R. A.
administrator in charge of the news
paper code. The guild also made pub
lie letter to Pulitzer asking him to
resign.
The letter to Pulitzer quoted a reso-
luton adopted by the guilds assembly
saying in part that we see nothing in
Ralph Pulitzer's record as publisher of
the one-tine New York World to JUS
t1y q belief that he will have the en-
ployes' interests fairly at heart" and
that "on the contrary his record in the
closlng-out of the New York World
leaves him in no position to restrain
even the most ruthless activities of any
publisher in dealing with employees"
In accepting the appointment Pulit-
ger asked Gen. Johnson to make public
q letter Pulitzer had written him set
ting forth his connections with the
newspaper business. The guilds letter
said the objection you raised in your
letter to Gen. johnson to your appoint
ment seem to the LOO members of the
Newspaper Guild of New York to be
valid despite Gen. JohnSon's demurrer. "
The resolution protesting the appoint
ment called upon guilds in other cities
to take similar action. Pulitzer is In
Washington.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
R|ST|NE AND BLACK
STUDY MAIL CASE
New Prosecutor and Senator
Confer With Attorney Gen.
eraI Cummings.

The Senate investigation OF alleged
irregularity in awarding of ocean and
airmail contracts under the Hoover
administration today entered definitely
into channels that may. lead to GRIM
inal proceedings when Col. Carl l.
Ristine, newly appointed special as
sistant to the Attorney General went
into conference with Attorney General
Cummings regarding possible prosecu-
tions.
Senator Black of Alabama, chairman
of the committee before which numer-
GUS charges have been made by a pa
rade Of witnesses, Joined in the con-
ference at the Office OF the Attorney
General
Ristine, husky young Midwestern
lawyer. said after the conference that
part of the testimony taken by Senator
Blacks committee had been turned over
to him for study. He announced he
would sit in tomorrow on the commit
tee hearings at the Capitol.
Ristine to Listen.
On emerging from the conference in
Cummings Office Senator Black said
that it was his opinion that there has
been illegality. undoubtedly" uncovered
by the hearings. He declined to 60 into
any detail. however
Ristine said he was not in a position
to discuss his new duties at this time,
as he has scarcely had a chance TO
find out what it is all about" He said
he was going to be "a good listener" at
the committee hearings Before going
to Cummings Office Ristine held con-
ference with Assistant Attorney General
Joseph B. keenan,. in charge of the
criminal division of the Department of
Justice
Included in testimony given before
Blacks committee were charges that
Evening star., 1934-01-24
DECLINE IN TIRE
PROFITS CHARGED
Goodyear-Sears Contract At
tackled by U. S. Attorney
Haycraft at Meeting.
BY the Associated Press.

by tne Associated PreSS.
AKRON, Ohio, January 24.-Good-
year Tire & Rubber Co. did not make
its allotted 61s per cent profit on its
Sears. Roebuck & Co. tire contract in
1928. Federal Attorney E. F. Hay
craft charged yesterday.
G. H. Brook, Goodyear controller,
who was on the stand in the Federal
Trade Commissions hearing on it's
claim that the contract violates the
Clayton act, said the question of profit
involved technicalities of bookkeeping
The controller testified that in 1892
the company charged back $l46,0 of
the 81 ,250,00 contract purchase price to
profit and loss. The following year,
$4,000 was charged off in the amor
tizing program, he said
At the request of Haycraft. Brook
figured the PERCENTAGE of reduction this
would make in profits of the contract.
He declared it would result in a per
cent profit for 1892 and AZ for 1893.
Questioned on Seconds"
Question of whether the Sears agree
ment with Goodyear is more than a
manufacturing contract" was opened
when R. S. Wilson. vice president and
sales manager of the rubber company,
was questioned on the seconds of
Sears, Roebuck tire brands which
Goodyears own dealers sold.
Contending that the Goodyear Sears
contract has been a cause of disturb
ing price conditions in the industry,
Haycraft announced that representa-
tives of the % tire corporations which
voiced disapproval Of the big four"
tire industry code last November, will
he
P. w. Litchfield, president of the
Goodyear company, testified last week
that the agreement with Sears, Roebuck
was ''one of the best ever written"
He assumed full responsibility, he
said for the contract, now under fire
as tending to create a monopoly and
therefore in violation of the Clayton
act.
The first Sears contract brought sew
eral million dollars business, the rubber
concern president testified; the second
Evening star., 1934-01-24
PARALYTICS TO ORGANIZE
Mississippi Victims of Ginger to
Form Association.

JACKSON, January "a LP)-Missis-
sippi victims of the ginger paralysis
that swept several States few years
ago will gather here tomorrow to or
ganiZe the Association of United Vic
tins of Ginger Paralysis" it was an
nounced yesterday. The purpose of the
organization is to cooperate with SINH
lar associations in other States in seek
ing certain national legislation in the
interest of victims
Evening star., 1934-01-24
RICH PURSE PROMISED
100000 Handicap to Feature Los
Angeles Turf Club Opening.

LOS ANGELES, January "a (P-
The richest purse known to horse rae
ing. a 100000 handicap, was promised
today by the Los Angeles Turf Club
through President Hal Roach for its
inaugural running in 1885
Roach said the race probably would
be held in March on the track at Ar
cadia, recently authorized by the Cali
fornia Horse Racing Commission.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
't;2f e vfG6R Tf5S At 1SS1HF'l go
the answer is:
Internal
Cleanliness

Intestinal stoppage, COM
monty known as constipation.
is the cause of 8O% of all
human ills, say many famous
doctors. Thousands feel and
look old before their time"
often because of personal
neglect.
IF you are not feeling up to par.
want to regain your old-time energy
and really feel good again: follow
this simple. pleasant method of
banishing constipation.
Take one little E-Z Tablet when
ever you feel sluggish. full of cold.
"headachy." constipated or bilious.
It quickly settles upset stomach.
banishes coated tongue and livens
lazy liver. cleanses and sweetens the
bowels.
E-Z Tablets gently but surely and
Evening star., 1934-01-24
GARB0 LEAVES HOME
Swedish Actress Said to Be Visit
ing at Yosemite Park.

IHg Ht OSemlte Park.
HOLLYWOOD. January "a (P.-
Greta Carlo has made another quiet
departure from her home here.
The Swedish actress, was said last
night to be at Yosemite National Park,
planning to stay there a week or two
II was only last week that the actress
and Reuben Mamoulian, who directed
her in her last motion picture, made
an automobile tour through Arizona,
registering where they stopped under
ether names. which revived rumors they
were to be married. Mamoulian denied
on their return, however, that they had
married
Evening star., 1934-01-24
DEATH is HELD SUICIDE
Police Say Youth Killed Himself
With Shotgun.

With Shotgun.
SPOKANE. Wash, January "a P).-
Police said yesterday that Paul E. New
port. jr.. 1S, whose body was found
near golf course Monday, took his
own life with shotgun.
An autopsy disclosed powder burns
inside the wound and showed that IS
pellets entered the heart.
The youths father. Paul E. Newport,
sr., earlier had expressed the fear the
boy had been kidnapped and slain.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Meeting, Danes of the Loyal Legion.
Mayhower Hotel, pm
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Card party. H Street Circle, go M
street northeast. benefit church welfare,
II Street Christian Church, 8 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Meeting Pi Omicron National Soror-
fty Epsilon Chapter, university guild
room, Willard Hotel, 7:30 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

safely drive out all accumulated food
wastes that clog the intestinal tract.
yet they never cramp. upset or
weaken you. Millions sold yearly
by druggists everywhere.
Keep clean inside and you'll look
well outside. Clear. sparkling eyes
and youthful vigor come from within.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
Turkey Stays Snake, Saving Boy

WORCESTER, South Africa iP).-A
turkey saved the life of a little boy
here by attacking and pecking to death
a deadly yellow cobra which was about
to strike at the lad
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Reception, National Auxiliary, United
Spanish War Veterans, Pan-American
room, Mayfower Hotel, 10 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24
CITY NEWS IN BRIEF,
TODAY.

Meeting, Womens Patriotic Confer
ence on National Defense, ball room,
MayfoWer Hotel $50 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Meeting, Danes of the Loyal Legion,
Mayhower Hotel. pm.
Meeting, Washington Philatelic soci-
ETY., Carlton Hotel, 8 pm.
Card party. H Street Circle, go M
street northeast, benefit church welfare,
II Street Christian Church, 8 pm.
Meeting. Pi omicron National soror-
fty Epsilon Chapter, university guild
room, Willard Hotel, 7:30 pm.
Dance, Pennsylvania State Society,
main ball room, Willard Hotel, $3.50 pm
Card party, Auxiliary Home Board
Joppa Lodge, Chapter No. 81. Order of
the Eastern Star, Joppa Lodge Hall,
1909 Ninth street. 8 pm.
Meeting, Geological Society of Wash
tngton, Cosmos Club, assembly hall
Q pm.
TOMORROW.
Meeting, Womens Patriotic Confer
ence on National Defense, ball room,
Mayfiower Hotel, all day.
Meeting, American Council Of Learned
Societies. Pan-American room, May
flower Hotel, 2 pm.
Luncheon Kiwanis Club, garden,
Mayf1ower Hotel 1890 pm. Daniel c.
Roper, Secretary of Commerce, speaker.
Exhibit, Picker X-ray Corporation,
Mayf1ower Hotel. all day.
Meeting. Hardwood Co-ordinatin.
Committee, suite 237-238, Mayflower
Hotel, all day.
Dinner, st. Marks Church, Third
and A streets southeast, pm.
Luncheon, Princeton Alumni, Uni
versity Club, 1890 pm.
Luncheon, Phi Gamma Delta Fra
ternity, University Club, 1890 pm.
Luncheon, Cornell Club, University
Club, 1880 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Meeting, Washington Philatelic Soci-
ETY., Carlton Hotel, 8 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Dance, Pennsylvania State Society,
main ball room, Willard Hotel, 80 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Card party, Auxiliary Home Board,
Joppa Lodge, Chapter No. 81. Order of
the Eastern Star, Joppa Lodge Hall,
1909 Ninth street, 8 pm.
Evening star., 1934-01-24

Meeting, Geological Society of Wash
mgton. Cosmos Club, assembly hail.
pm.