Evening star., 1934-04-22

which gives a wealth of
mouth-melting pastels for our tweeds
his season, it frequently seeks a more
hamboyant note. 1t finds it where
color runs rampant-in racetrack
checks and plaids.
One sees versions of these, both
bold and subdued, in mannishly tai
lored coat suits, finger-tip jackets
and box-pleated skirts, for the tai
lored note is infinitely part of their
chic One suit which is making his
tory lis the fitted plaid topcoat, with
attached matching vest, worn with
monotone frock which repeats the
dominant color, note of the plaid.
On abrisk days the coat is worn
closed and belted. When it is opened,
the plaid waistcoat beneath looks
decidedly new.
Deep blues, a bit brighter than
navy, combine with quantities of yell
low for winning racetrack colors;
green mates with brown, and pur-
plish blues are linked with rusty red
and the neutral shades. Grey with
rust, orange or deep red, and dark
with light blue, form intriguing new
plaids that bear watching. not only
in sports frocks and suits, but in
blouses, scarfs and accessories. Horse
sheeting blouseS, made of heavy cot
ton gabardine, are now being Tea
tured for wear with monotone tWeeds.
Both in pattern and fabric, these re-
mind one of the colorful blankets
that shroud the racers as they prance
from track to stable. These, though
presumably a flash fashion, promise
TO carry over through spring, and are
fun for the country or the casual town
outfit.
True to tradition are the Scotch
plaids, which are bringing scent OF
heather to sports things in real. Scotch
Hannels of distinguished cut. Light
weight flannels in cream, with big
fne-line checks of black or copper
brown, provide smartly for the dressier
spectator suit.
AT first glance, the trig suits and
a slim little dresses which figure
prominently in the spring sports pic
ture seem to offer little that is news
with the exception of their emphasis
on color. Look closer, however, ana
you will note many points "hlch
differ from the cut of the early
spring sports types.
Swagger lines are Strengthening out
into a more pencil-like silhouette
Coat and Jacket backs are taking
lot inverted
box pleats. Lapels are moving upward
toward the chin, though they still
remain wide. Shoulders are smooth
often raglan in cut. and collars are
forsaking the windbloWn line for the
mannish turn-back or boyiSh round
style. Pockets are important, and SO
are fastenings. whether you favor
Dilkusha's seashell clips or Schlapa-
relli's novel wood buttons. Skirts favor
more and more pleats, yet still re-
tain slim lines Sports frocks have
finished with experiment and have
settled down to the simple, wearable
sort of thing in which a woman can
relax.
Contrast plays a most important
part in giving variety and flair to
clothes which one wears through an
entire season. In the popular three
piece suit, with long coat and hip
length jacket, the jacket is often the
means of creating two or three cos
tunes from one. All three pieces may
match, as in a very new suit OF
steeplechase checks. An extra jacket
in monotone wool, worn alone with
the checked skirt or under the long
coat, completes the formula for Sec
ond costume. Still another variation
is the monotone skir t worn with
checked Jacket or with double-checked
Jacket and coat.
Pastel tweeds are turning out in
large numbers in maize, aqua blue,
coral pink, pale green, and hyaclnth
blue, the last mentioned high fash
ion note. All blues are good, and
turquoise is a welcome newcomer IN
the sports field. Grey, combined with
dusty pink or blue. and string. with
rust are interesting combinations
you will see much this season In
f1ecked tweeds for both town and
country wear Pastel checks, in coral,
blue, green and yellow, teach you that
even checks can be subtle. Cottons
and linens that look like tweeds are
already being shown in anticipation
of warmer weather.
Watch out for copper browns and
rust in the plain sheer woolens that
are rapidly increasing in vogue. String
and neutral shades are also excellent
for these. You can't keep good navy
down, this year, and both Lelong and
Lanvin sponsor navy blue suits of soft
Jersey. Camels hair is, as always,
sports classic, and is now being used
in tailored, hip-length jackets, as well
as in top coats.
AS THE season advances crisp, white
"A blouses begin to look much newer
than the brightly colored gilets which
were an important accessory to the
suit a few short weeks ago. Now
the tailored silk knit jersey shirt, the
linen sailor blouse. and the silk broad
cloth, tucked bosom type, all in spotless
white, are the fashions that catch the
eve and form a flattering foil for
costume in color.ys Starched plque,
handkerchief linen, and cotton jersey
are equally good in this connection.
But don't give up your bright sheer
blouses. or the striped silk or cot
ton shirtings that have won Americas
heart. These, together with the dark
cravat silks. are smart items for your
blouse wardrobe: the former with dark
suits, and the latter with string or
beige. Pin and polka-dot patterns are
strongly indorsed for Summer by
every important designer.
Lest we forget, nothing is smarter
than the sweater for both town and
country tweeds. And here color
knows no limita tions. If you knit your
own, you will find you can frequently
have yarns dyed especially TO match
a color in your costume. The twin
sweater set is still an attractive buy,
as few sweaters are shown Singly