The Waterbury Democrat., 1934-08-16
BY ROSsETTE HARGRovE NEA Service Staff COrresDondeI

NEA Service Staff Correspondent
 Paris. = Placing emphasis on classically romantic lines for even ing costumes and slim fitting, prac- cally tailored daytime clothes, Paris couturiers opened their doors to the fashion -minded world for the first showing of the brilliant new creations for fall and winter. Never have clothes been more wearable or more intriguingi
 As slender, graceful models swept down the thickly carpeted aisles at each opening, spectators leaned forward to gasp, What an incredible amount of research these artists must have done in their hunt for new ideas. Such lines and fabrics! And trimmings!"
 For creation after creation res vealed influences that could only have been produced after assiduous study of the clothes worn by his- tory's most giamorously accoutred women.
 Daytime creations offer choices of mannishly tailored, rather sober suits, ensembles sparingly trimmed with fur, jaunty basqued jackets, redingotes and capelets that are reminiscent of pre-war modes Magnificent velvets, James, laces, furs and glittering embroideries make end-of the-day outfits and evening gowns more luxurious than ever.
 The leading evening silhouette theme is subtle sheath. Next in importance are the charming Little Women styles with dis tinct Directoire influence through waistline and bodice.
 Daytime skirts-they're almost hobble skirts-are slashed on the sides to allow for walking comfort. Shoulders are natural. There are many dropping sleeves with plain, F>uncomplicated width through the elbows.
 Coats are straight with loose tops, kimona sleeves and fitted waistlines. Hips are emphasized by fullness dragged backwards.
 Fur is widely used in a decora- tive manner instead of for more practical purposes. It's shown on hems of skirts as well as jackets. And fur collars that are high a. round the ears frame the face hiding the chin. These droop back wards.
 Ermine is used again on black velvet. Black, white and silver fox are. prevalent. And so are white foxes-dyed amethyst, reddish brown and blue. Golden and black seGl and black and gray astrakhan are next in favor. Sports coats and afternoon capes are furlined. Skirts are longer. Sports dresses are about eleven inches from the floor. street skirts reach almost to shoe tops and evening gowns sweep the floor.
 Hats are designed to harmonize
 with ensembles. There are toques, tricornes, berets and modified tyro- leans-fashioned from felt, stain. velvet and trimmed with fur and
 feathers.
 Amethyst, onyx, plum, black, tulip yellow, autumn brown, greens,
 taupe grays are combined with vivid reds and yellows. Black is smartest for formad wear. Gener,- ally it's relieved by colorful touches on sleeves, necklines and belts. Bodices have bloused backs, necklines that show above coat collars. Deep, square necklines prevail for evening. Incidentally, sleeves are widely shown in eve ming models.
 Belts vary in width. There are narrow. medium and very wide
 ones. Sashes of ribbons, velvet and metallic cloth are used on af- ternoon frocks.
 Faille taffeta is an important fabric. It falls fIoorward in graceful folds-supple but rust ling. Velvets of all types are fea- tured and so are novelty laces, silks and wools-gleaming with cellophane and metal threads. Woolens are highlighted. The new lastex wools, quilted in ] cloque designs, are used alone as , well as in combination with plain
 weaves. For afternoon, shiny
 surfaces have busted dull fabrics. | Black satin is prevalent.
 | Dilkusha stresses lastex weaves
 for daytime. and launches Merov- ingian evening creations with flowing draperies and all-around i fulness. Toad green, misty blue
 and Patina red are the important colors in this collection.
 Maggy Rouff, inspired by the Old Masters, shows picturesque,
 modernized evening gowns in
 rich satins and allies with deep l decolletages and Medici collars. | Her daytime clothes feature the
 Directoire lines. Here, also, are l redingotes with waistlength cape
 lets and capped coats.
 Jodelle's evening gowns have I flowing skirts and slim hip-
 lines. The informal evening cos
 tunes in this collection. are tailor
 ed with decollcte blouses of heavy
 satin. The afternoon numbers
 feature black velvet and satin
 dresscs-slashed in the front and
 topped by fur-trimmed, dolman | jackets. The evening dresses
 show a luxudious profusion of ir-
 ridesccnt matching paillete em-
 broideries on laces and satins. | Worth introduces fiat-heeled
 monks sandals for evening. Heim's collection is essentially
 feminine with gay, nineties .n-
 fluence shown in a coat with
 coachman's cape. Silver fox and
 ermine trim many of the black | taffetas and brocades. ,~, r
 Chanel offers a technical revo- | lution in sleeves fitting. An un-