Evening star., 1933-05-21

~ ACH season, it seems, Paris makes
- more concessions to overseas
tastes and requirements. There
IL was time when French couture
quite forgot, or at least ignored
American scorching Summers, and
American women's need for frocks that
were smart, but at the same time cool.
That complaint can no lcnger be made.
For while c2cry couturier does include
frock5 that c2a by no stretch OF the
Imagination be coccei.ed as practical
for American Summer, set 1imos.
every one does now make a good many
that are evi&enty aimed at an o5erseas
clientele
This is more than ever the case this
year. Perhaps because cotton has once
again come into its own, after a number
OF years of eclipse Cotton is pre-
eminently a hot-weather fabric, and
whenever the couture takes it into its
head to create in the dozens OF airy
cotton materials, women know that
they will not lack for thin dresses for
hot days.
Equally acceptable to American wear
ers are the Summer prints which Paris
has indorsed this year. Often these
costumes are made with short jackets
of waist-length or longer, which slip on
over sleeveless frock Of varying length.
This makes the practical type of frock
approved in America. These printed
jacket costumes vary from the very
simple daytime models, cut on tailored
lines, and suitable for wear the whole
day. to elaborate costumes designed in
Paris to be Worn for races and cimilar
events, but equally suitable for formal
Summer afternoon occasions. Such a
costume is composed of frock of heavy
black and white printed crepe, with
draped cowl neckline, and tied black
satin girdle. With it is worn short
loose jacket with wide full sleeves, and
black satin gauntlet gloves. With the
jacket and hat the costume is correct
for late afternoon wear; without jacket
and hat, the sleeveless frock makes an
informal dinner gown.
A NEITHER costume which might con-
ceivan'y rlsy a Coub'e rcle for Sum
rner days is printed blue end white
crsre. and, by the way. white either in
background or figure plays an important
role in Summer prints. The clever
feature of this costume is gloves and
hat of the fabric.
Prints themselves, however. are not
uninteresting this season. 1t sometimes
seems to the woman searching for dis
tinction and originality that there Is
nothing new in prints. Thls season
she has no reason to complain. Al
most every couturier has done some
thing interesting in the print line.
These are mede up in dress lengths,
some of them of sort Of japanese
effect OF wavy black lines on a white
ground. The design varies through the
dress length Offering the clever &C.
signer oppcrtunity for unu-ual effects.
Unusual effects, it might be said,
are the rule this season. Lolong uses
a black and white dotted silk, and by
intricate cutting and tucking, succeeds
III creating an effect OF gray. Inen
there are Schiaparelli's chalk prints
chalky white lines that zig-zag across
black, navy or gray background. Ana
last, but not least, are Molyneuxs
hand printed evening costumes, In
which the pattern is printed on only a
part of the costume.
For evening wear, organdy and its
close cousin. organza, are seen every
where. Wolfe is being brought back
from oblivion into which 1t sank sew
eral seasons ago, and is being used by
several houses, notably Molyneaux
whether Ii will become popular re-
mains TO be seen. 1t is a soft fabric
which drapes charmingly, and is par
ticularly flattering to the older wo-
man who likes cotton, but who is not
able to wear the stiff youthful organ
dies that are in vogue this season.
- ~
n the organdy evening frocks q
LanUn model is excellent and
graceful. OF black design ON . white