Evening star., 1933-04-12
EXPEDITION READY
TO SCALE EVEREST
Selection of Porters Impor-
tant Factor in Climbing
of Mountain.
BY HUGH RUTTLEDGE,

BY HUGH RUTTLEDGE,
Leader Of Mount Everest Climbing Expedi-
tion.
Special Dispatch to The Star.
GANGTOK, sikkim, India, April IL
CN.A.NA) (by runner from Kampa
Dzong) In all expeditions to the
greater mountain ranges OF the world
the problem of transport demands the
closest study and preparation. AS IN
war, sthe troops must be brought within
striking distance of the objective and
maintained in attack, retreat or counter
attack. Failure Is the almost certain
result Of a weak link in the lines OF
communication.
The higher technique OF mountafneer-
ing has been evolved in Europe, yet It Is
scarcely an exaggeration to say that
without the collaboration Of the hardy,
enduring peoples of the Himalayan
regions not one Of the greater peaks OF
that vast range could be climbed.
From Hunza and the Karakoram. on
the west, through Kumaun to Nepal and
Sikkim, on the east, there are no
"amenities"-no hotels, diligences, rail-
ways, mountain huts. The mountalneer
must be his own courier, his own univer-
sal provider, and must persuade the
local people to see him through.
Acclimated Porters.
Fortunately for aspirants to Everest,
political and economic circumstances
have conspired to bring within reach OF
Darjeeling "a hill station and dlstrlct
in British India) the very finest ma
terial for a porter corps. Ten marcnes
avay. almost on the southern slopes OF
Everest, is an old Tibetan settlement
within Nepal territory. 1t is called
Solah Khombu and lies at height OF
$4,000 feet.
The Sherpas Of this settlement, accus-
toned from early childhood to carry
heavy loads over rough ground, ire
quently cross the high pass at the head
Of their valley into Tibet, and nave
matization to altitude. They come to
Darjeeling in large numbers, seeking
work on tea estates. pulling richshaws
and doing general rough porter's WORK
Scarcely inferior to these Sherpas are
Tibetan subjects called Bhotias. They
come in from the Chumbi Valley and
enlist readily. They are, perhaps,
somewhat more amenable to discipline
than the Sherpas, and as load-carriers
are unsurpassed.
In speaking Of these Himalayan
peoples the word "cheery" Is almost as
heavily overworked as the word breezy
when applied to naval officers. Yet 1t
does describe an attitude OF mind wnicn
carries these men through mcreolnie
hardship and makes their companion
ship q pleasure.
Aware Of Dangers.
Many of them are highly intelligent.
fully aware of what lies before them on
an expedition to Everest or Kanchen-
iunga: exposure, danger, extremes OF
physical and nervous exhaustion. They
can earn as much on tea estates or In
the Darjeeling bazaar. Yet, up they
come, old hands and new, to compete
for the service.
They are of Mongolian nomad stock.
Also, they are mountaineers themselves,
and love participation in a game the
more thrilling for the superstitious ter
rors which still surround 1t.
It saws much for the general keen
ness that, although the period Of re-
cruiting coincided with the Tibetan
New Year, when a jovial spirit is
abroad, we have not had one case OF
drunkenness among the porters, who
have had advances Of pay. Almost to
a man they have made allotments to
their wives and other dependents, and
then interested themselves In their new
equipment and in the preparations for
the march.
Thorough Fighters.
This does not mean that vigilance
must be relaxed. The sherpa, when he
decides to have q carouSe, does 1t very
thoroughly, and is then prone to the
most violent kind of fighting, In the
80 ~ oh, I,a vryf11
pom, including his teeth. 1t is difacult
not to forgive him, he is so desperately
repentant next morning, and the best
Of friends with his opponent, should
the latter survive.
Yet discipline must be maintained,
and the punishment of double load Is
duly enforced, and accepted with per-
feet understanding and no ill-will.
Occasional quarrels there must be
among q body of high-spirited men.
Provision has been made this year of
sets of boxing gloves, and there Is no
more invigorating spectacle than that
of two sherpas blowing of steam in a
hastily formed ring. They begin by
protesting determination to play
light; but within 10 seconds are heart
lily endeavoring to exterminate one an
other, while their friends, with days
pay on the result, comment on their
wild swings, and everybody Is supremely
pleased.
Meanwhile, selected men have been
taught the gentle art of valeting, an
occupation in which they delight.
Servant Interesting.
My own servant, Kitar, my COM
panion last year IN the Kumaun Hima-
laya, Is Joy to behold. Dressed, on a
MINDLESS day, in complete suit OF
Bavarian wind-proof clothing, with my
last years puttees, boots and balaclava,
he mixes up my carefully packed equip
ment in an archarnement of industry,
empties and refills my kitbag a dozen
times a day. and rebukes me when !
drop two annas on the floor
Unless I am much mistaken, he will
60 high on Everest, for he Is resolute
adventurer. We shall see later If there
is spirit Of rivalry between the Sher-
pas and Bhotias Within reason, 1t
will be encouraged.
For the time being, we are learning
';1 III 7 ;