Evening star., 1933-05-14
Contrasting Colors Create
New Spring Combinations

worn, especially by the younger group,
with gayly-colored short-sleeved sweat
ers and a sort Of adaptation of the
turtle neck
Vionnet has introduced color into
street costumes in very new manner
by making the top Of a wooden coat of
printed silk. I saw this costume at
tea the other afternoon at one Of the
favorite tea rooms net far from the
Rue de Rivoli. 1t had a top of dark
blue and white crepe, with the upper
half Of the sleeves also Of the crepe
The skirt and the sleeves from the
elbow down were in light weight dark
blue woolen. Worn under this coat was
dress OF the blue and white silk crepe,
which showed ever SO little below the
coat. A scarf, attached to the dress,
was tied in a bow knot, with long ends
which extended below the waistline.
A SOMEWHAT similar costume which
have seen on the street and in
tea rooms has a skirt of lightweight
woclen. bodice Of printed silk coming
down over the top Of the skirt, some
times with a tied girdle, the costume
completed with a hip-length loose
Jacket OF the bodice fabric,
Indeed, this tendency to make the top
of the costume important through the
use Of color is growing. OF course, 1t
Is all in line with the emphasis which
has been placed on the upper part of
the silhouette during the last season
Broad-shouldered effects, Gibson girl
tucks, fitted waistlines and similar de-
vices have called attention to the upper
part OF the body and broadened it,
whereas the narrow skirts have appar-
emily decreased the lower part Of the
silhouette. Now, through the use OF
color, couturiers are still further height
ening this effect. A gayly-printed
Dodlce or coat top with a dark plain
skirt Immediately calls attention to
itself. thus giving greater importance to
the upper part Of the silhouette This
the use of horizontal stripes for the
blouse. Every effort, in short, this sea-
son tends toward drawing attention to
the silhouette above the hips.
The same note appears In evening
gowns. which are very often these days
in two colors even two fabrics At one
OF the smart Pasdeloup concerts the
other night I noted several costumes
which made use Of this motif. One of
the mcst distinguished was the Vionnet
model with black fitted skirt into which
a good deal Of fullness was introduced
at the hemline. Topping this was a
blouse Of soft crepe in two tones. The
upper part was Of a soft family pink
white; below that a band, like a broad
girdle, around the waistline, cf deeper
pink. A band Of the material encircled
the shoulders and gave a high draped
neckline at the front. No jewelry was
worn axcept q double bracelet Of bril-
Hants.
A MOTHER gown which made use OF
contrasting materials, but which
was very different in its effect was
worn by young girl Of pronounced
Anglo-Saxon type. This has a sort Of
princess skirt, which extended two OF
three inches above the waistline, Of
white matelasse silk. Attached to this
was bodice Of q sheer red and grey
print. and completing the costume was
a flnger-tip straight jacket Of the same
sheer print, with full short sleeves
and tied under the chin with short
strings Of the material. This very gay
sportslike evening costume is char
acteristic Of a new note in the evening
mode. Many couturiers are combining
fabrics usually thought Of as sport
with distinctly evening fabrics, thu
giving q nonchalant air to many oi
their Summer evening frocks. This
type Of thing, Of course, appeals chiefly
to the very young, who are pleased with
the casual note and find 1t becoming
In contrast to these somewhat un.
usual evening costumes Is the Maggy
Roun gown worn ut this same con-
cert by tall, stunning woman of about
80. This gown, Of mauve lacque satin
is made on classical lines, the bodice
cut somewhat lower at the front thar
is usual this season. The skirt is fitted
about the hips. but is so cleverly cut
that suf1icient ful!ness is introduced at
the hemline. There Is no trimming OF
ornament Of any kind, but accompany.
ing the gown is . short cape Of the
same satin, bordered with q very hand
some piece of blue fox The costume
when I saw it, was worn with satin
slippers of matching color, thus Great.
ing monochrome effect that was in.
teresting and distinguished, especially
In an audience where color contrasts
were general.