Evening star., 1933-03-26
PARIS. March 18.

~ NE of the most interesting style
developments this season is
the introduction of tailored
~ note into costumes Of very
soft, feminine type. The
French woman has never taken up
tailored costumes in the same whole
hearted way that Anglo-SaXons have.
This Spring, however, she is apparently
sufficiently intrigued with the tailored
theme to play with it, She seldom goes
in for a complete outfit in the tailored
mode, but she adds a jacket of severe
lines to an evening frock Of feminine
persuasion, and so gains very new
and decidedly interesting effect. Or, on
a strictly tailored daytime dress, she
may tie a soft, feminine scarf Of vel
vet and once again achieve something
which Is quite unusual. In other
words, when she does adopt the tai
loFed or masculine mode, she imme-
diately softens it by the introduction
Of q more flattering note.
Many of the more important houses
have effected this combination of the
tailored and the feminine in a striking
manner. Molyneux, who has always
been influenced in his creations by the
ciean-cut, somewhat athletic type of
Eng1lshwoman, Is making very tailored
fimy frocks of cire nets and lace. Le-
long, likewise, goes in for the extremely
tailored when he shows waist-length
jackets of stiff pique, to be worn over
black lace.
THIS mode offers to the clever wom-
an the means ef quite transform
Ing q costume, through the jacket
which accompanies it. Nine. Schiap-
arelli, indeed, recommends the use of
a variety of evening jackets to give in
terest and versatility to the evening
wardrobe. With a single evening gown
OF black or white lace or chiffon,
half dozen jackets. varying from the
tailored piGue type, as shown by Le-
long. to fur-edged capelets of velvet,
the ingenious woman is able to effect
numerous changes in her costume at
very little expense She may, indeed,
make dress practical for both the
cocktail hour and more formal evening
occasions through the wise choice of
q Jacket. Patou, for instance, shows
an evening frock in matelasse fabric
IN pinkish beige. The accompanying
Jacket opens in the back, shows a very
high neckline across the front and
when slipped on over the sleeveless,
I0W-DacheQ trOck, transforms 1t into q
formal afternoon costume French
women. with their practical sense, are
Aeking advantage of this versatile
Aode and count it real triumph when
-y can adapt costume to various
occasions through the use of jacket
or cape. The younger woman or girl
who adopts the tailored evening jacket
will not overlook its possibilities as an
addition to her sports and daytime
frockS as well.
y y X
TT Is not alone in evening costumes
that the tailored and feminine note
are combined. The same expression
Is carried out in frocks for daytime
wear-even in woolen costumes, de-
signed for the morning promenade, or
for shopping. I noted a smart frock
of this kind the other morning on the
Champs Elysees. This was of brown
woolen, a color, by the way, which is
being seen more and more frequently
as the season advances The design
Of the frock was of the utmost sim
piicity. Sleeves were plain and tight
fitting, the bodice, although cut with
-shouldered effect, was also very
plain, and the wrsp-around skirt was