The Waterbury Democrat., 1933-10-28
Paris Stages Blouse Revival for Formal Wear
Bx RosErTE HARGRoVN

tar15-Biouse8 arc p1ck on IHc fashion scene and being given more importance than ever before by the Paris couturiers. After many year of neglect, they are enjoying a somewhat hectic revival, figuring in the afternoon and evening scheme of things besides rcsuming their old part in completing the tailored suit.
 The blouse used to be considered one of the most feminine of gar- ments of a woman's wardrobe. Many of us mourned it's passing. We all knew what wonders a fresh and lilial waist could perform in regard to a slightly worn suit. Then again. you could always rely on the right blouse to supply an ele- ment of fantasy and even surprise, not to speak of the ingenious look it could impart to the most for- mally tailored skirt and coat, cs- pecially in it's fluffy and befrilled version. of old. It could be youth full and amusing by it's form, or subtle and rich by it's fabric. So it is no wonder that when the Haute Couture decided it was time to stage a revival of blouses, they were instantly enthusiastically re- ceived.
 In these days of careful dressing with view to achieving the best possible result on a smaller al- lowance, one suit can fill many en- agreements, provided you have sew eral blouses of varying degrees of formality. There is a wide choice of fabrics this season to ac- complish this successfully.
 Velvet, this fall, is both formal and informal. It is informal when 1t accompanies a tweed or angorA or jersey morning suit and is then in the cotton variety, plain or rib-I bed. It is formal in it's panne or chiffon guise and when it accofn- panies a velvet, cloth or fine wool en afternoon or dinner ensemble.
 Other informal models are made of fine jersey or wool delaine in rich but rather dark colors or very
 vivid. Large misty checks and tar
 tans are smart on the slim figure always used on the bias, of course but tiny dots or motifs are just
 as good. Bayadere striped persey sometimes fashions jacket Things as well as the blouse, all of which spells added warmth besides chic. Strangely enough most of these in- formal blouses have short sleeves,
 but then this is one of the many
 vagaries of the Mode.
 The blouses that accompany af- ternoon suits in the new ottomans, velvets and faced clothes are luxur-
 ious to degree corresponding to flxA fpr 4f I.l Panne, heavy ribbed ottoman, rich satin. preceded and plain taffetas and even 8 dull lame are some of the fabrics sponsored by Paris. The 1883 blouses must, in a sense, con- tinue the line of the coat or some detail of cut of the ensemble to spell perfection, showing that the whole ensemble has been studied in
 al Its details, and that the blouse was not added haphazardly at the last minute.
 Much of the interest of the
 dressy blouse centers in the neck treatment and the sleeves. The high neckline, falling in soft folds or cut to the base of the throat Is
 new, even though it may be slit
 more or less generously down the back. Some are cut tunic-wise and reach down to the keens. Others are frilly, short-basqued affairs,
 buttoned from chin to hem with tiny gold or jewelled buttons.
 Cleverly designed buckles and belts are another feature.
 The sleeves of these afternoon
 blouses are almost infinite in their variety. They are short. elbow
 length or long, and the cut can be
 straight, modified leg-o-mutton,
 caped, bishop, very full, raglan, e tight as mittens like those shown
 by Lelong.
 The latest arrival in the blouse family Is the dinner or evening version. Conjugated with long, slim sheathlike skirts of satin sloth, velvet or satin, they are made Iof brocaded satin or velvet, tulle with velvet strips or dots, satin striped or plain lame, transparent chiffon with metallic stripes, dots or tiny designs. taffabrics, in short, all the sumptuous fabrics that women can command. Marcel Rochas' choir-boy surplice in pail lette, embroidered tulle or mousse line is tremendously popular with the younger set and Is in a category all by itself. Mainbocher is very fond of these blouse ensembles for dining out or the theater, and they are of course the very latest thing in Paris, complemented by the new evening hats. Dilkusha's evening sweaters, long-sleeved and with boat-shaped necklines, fill a long, felt want when visiting in maybe historical. but nearly always drafty mansions or chateaux. They are sufficiently luxurious, fashioned as they are 'oflvelvet lastex or pleated chiffon (for not so cold houses) to slip over plain evening or dinner dress and they are also very new and original, especially the pleated wildly colored chiffon models, with their lantern sleeves.
 but her eyes were dancing mis- chievously.
 T must have been pretty mad. I apologize, Sarah Lou" Ted said.
 ---