Evening star., 1933-04-16


L face the last year or two, and
this season sees them continuing
i in their new course. Whereas
half a dozen years ago silk was
the only accepted material for our
more formal costumes, now woolens and
cotton are style leaders for every hour
of the day
This is easily understandable, when
one has made tour of the fabric houses.
For never in the history of the world
have woods and cottons been more In
teresting than they are today. Woolens,
once heavy and uninteresting, are light
as gossamer and are woven in textures
of SURPRISING interest and charm. Some
of them are so fine and light that only
an expert could tell that they were not
silk
This is probably the reason why
smart womsn have adopte1 fine. deli
cate vcclcu5 fer their NEST formal cos
tunes. and why woolens are no longer
confined to the Winter MONTH. but
appear right around the calendar.
Some Of the mcst interesting costumes
for the coming months are in feather
weight woolsns. Nine. Jenny. for in
stance, showed me an afternoon cos
tune in bright navy woolen-a very
delicately and loosely woven fabric that
could not possibly have been warmer
than many of the rough silk crepes that
one sees. This frock was made with the
soft lines associated with afternoon COS
tunes, with a crushed girdle, and q
bodice that opened ever so little In the
front to show a vestee of white corded
silk. 1t was a charming costume, and
practicable for all but the most scorch-
ing of Summer days.
\ X
THE coat of fine woolen has almost
entirely superseded the silk coat
for formal afternoon wear. 1t may be
lined or not, depending largely on the
material, but in any case it is designed
in such a way that it is smart ac-
compartment for the afternoon frock of
silk. Although the ensemble of the past
is less in evidence at present, usually
these woolen coats are designed to har-
monize with various frocks-a much
more economical solution for the aver
age woman. Paris likes the dark coat
over bright colored frock sometimes
of decided contrast. And this new sort
of ensemble is not always coatSdress
either. Often it is coat with skirt and
blouse. This particular costume has
coat of black woolen trimmed with black
breichwantZ. With 1t is worn a black
skirt, with white pique waistcoat. And
to carry out the ultra-chic pique motif,
stiff bow of this material is stuck
through a slit in the coat front. The
resulting costume has the simple smart
ness for which Paris is known
Gotten is not only king again in its
own right, but appears frequently in
combination with woolenS. The new
vogue for suits, has, of course, made
blouses of every type important and
of these about four cut of five are
cotton. But cotton, particularly pique,
and similar stiff fabrics are used fire.
Quently in combination with woolens.
At luncheon the other day, noticed
a, very smart ensemble in soft woolen
crepe in a deep green. The frock was
made with a huge bib-like collar in
white pique. The coat had lapels in
pique, and a crushed belt Of the same
white pique. The costume was very
smart, and this use of pique I felt
might easily suggest itself to the clever
woman in remodeltng last years dress
and coat.
But it is not only in combination
with woolens that cotton is important
This Summer, if one can judge from
the courturiers' showings, and also
from the frocks worn on the Riviera
during the recent months, will be
cotton Summer The chief favorites
are organdy and the very sheer ging-
hams, that lend themselves so charm
ingly to the quaint Victorian type OF
evening dress. These will, of course,
be chosen chiefly by the young girl, al
though the more mature woman will
not overlook cottons in her Summer
evening wardrobe She will choose the
softer cottons of less striking pattern.
X
IN my rounds of the various salons in
the last few weeks, have noted
several very charming cotton frocks,
which should be most adaptable to an
American Summer. >One was in
yellow organdy, with two-inch plaid
pattern CT delicate green and brown.
The stripes of the plaid were narrow,
and the yellow was the dominating
note of the material. This was made
with the full flaring skirt, so popular
with the jeune file, tight bodice
rather high in front, with deep v
in the back. A sort of f1chu or cape
which outlined the entire decolletage,
extended over the tops of the arms to
give a sleeve effect. Worn with this
dress was a sgirdle of three narrow
velvet ribbons, in the tones of the
frcck.
Another very interesting frock was
in flame-colored organdy,. with a sin
gle flower of brown and flame at the
belt This, I was told, was designed
to be worn with brown accessories,
and ap evening jacket of brown lac
quered satin.
In sports wear, cotton will vie with
wool for popularity. Here in France,
WoolenS will play a large part, but in
American, I expect to see cottons of
greater importance, on account of the
climate. Some of the new sports cot
tens are quite thrilling. Whereas, wool
often looks almost like silk, the new
cottons can easily be mistaken for
wool. They are woven with rough
pebbly textures, or with smooth linen
like finish, and are enough to set any
one longing for Summer days. A
smart combination this Summer will
be the heavy cotton dress worn with
lightweight wool coat of swagger
lines.
(Copyrirht 1033)