davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Older Costume Brought
Up to the Minute by Hat

this may be to either side, most OF the
modistes are dipping to right.
Any trimming such a model as de-
scribed may carry will be placed at the
back, with just suspicion Of it visible
from the front. A bow made of single
strip of felt is most frequently used,
but I have also made other felt de-
signs In the shape of birds wings,
flowers and foliage. Sometimes these
are all black, or dark navy blue, or very
dark green. A fur bow Is the trimming
/ have given several such models, and
this little suggestion of fur seen from
the front is invariably becoming, while
leaving the surprise of seeing what this
trimming really is like until the wearer
chooses to turn her head so as to
show 1t.
AS the zero weather hits Paris and
"a ladies able to afford Winter vaca-
tions in warmer climates take their
leave of our capital, they force us to
give them an advance Spring millinery
suggestion. The furs and heavy wintry
fabrics that are going to be worn IN
Paris for several months to come are
manifestIy unsuitable for Nice and
Cannes, where eternal sunshine and un-
ending Spring reign. For these are
hats In light felts-light but still
that only felt of excellent quality can
confer. Light beige, gray, white and
violet are the colors chosen. These
show every sign of holding their popu-
larity through the Spring when light
felts should enjoy aonther season OF
(copyrisht. 1g33)
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Officials and Diplomats
To Attend Concert TUESDAY,

Music always is in good taste, even
during the period of mourning, and off,
cials and diplomats are among those
having boxes for the concert Of the
Philadelphia Orchestra Tuesday eve
ming. when Issay Dobrowen will con-
duct. Among the subscribers is the
Minister of Uruguay, Mr. Varela, and
those who have boxes include Countess
Szechenyi, Mrs. Howard Sutherland,
Mrs. Oscar Jarecki, Mrs. William
Crozier. Mrs. Frederic A. Delano, Mrs.
Adolph Caspar Miller, Mrs. Frederick
c. Hicks, Mrs. Lawrence Townsend, Mrs.
Robert Lansing. Mrs. Ralph Worthing-
ton, Mrs. Sarah Stokes Halkett, Mrs.
Russell william Magma, Mrs. Frederic
A. Keep, Mrs. Walter Bruce Howe, Miss
Mabel Boardman, Miss Alice Clapp and
Mr.. William Phelps Emo. Mrs. Edwin
B. Parker. who is travelling in Europe
has given her box to friends, who will
have guests with them.
The Washington committee for the
orchestra includes Mrs. Crozier, Mrs.
Howe, Mrs. Townsend, Mrs. Miller, Mrs.
Calderon Carlisle, Mrs. Marshall Field
Mrs. Hennen Jennings, Mrs. John E.
Reyburn and Miss Laura Harlan.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Younger Set Is Exacting
In Style Requirements

much beloved by the very young. The
seasons most successful evening coat
fer the sub-deb is interesting. White
and gold lace Is cut into fitted finger
tip length coat with very puffy sleeves,
and fattering collar of white fur Is
added, to create its success.
THOSE little wool dresses that you
can put onto your back right now
and wear under fur coat. but with an
additional cape as part of the costume
to make 1t suitable for street wear in
the Spring, fit into the scheme of new
clothes and are perhaps greatest in de-
mand, among all clothes, at the present
time. Gray and navy blue are the most
prominent colors-these, in soft, light
weight woolens.
Youth Is much more practical than
1t Is given credit for being. Consider
able thrift Is embodied in dresses such
as these, for one may look forward to
wearing them under the fur shoulder
cape that perhaps was q Christmas
present, or, If not, is so inexpensive in
the fur sales at the present time that
possessing one is no luxury at all-just
good investment, made at rock bot
tom.
The advantage of being ready for
Easter. many, many weeks in advance.
also Is seen in these wooden dresses,
which are either for street or home,
town or country, q matter of utility to
remember, with school girls dashing in
and out of town for week ends. So, all
in all, these dresses may be considered
the cornerstone In the young girls
wardrobe
r.
A MOTHER favorite of youth-both
the sub-deb and her older sister
Is the little bolero that drapes across
and fastens at the sides, smartly con-
cealing the contrasting top of the dress
worn with it, unless you desire the top
to be revealed for more dressy occa-
sions than the dress and jacket together
would indicate that the costumes wear
er were bound for.
Taffetas and nets are much in de-
mand, and frills and high necklines
have an important place One example
Is in turquoise blue taffeta. another in
peach-colored silk net with chenille
dots, made over taffeta.
PaJamas, In satins, velvets and cotton
matelasses, are made to appear almost
like dresses, and with long matching
coats, or negligees, cut on princess
lines. were featured at recent fashion
show. One such costume. in American
beauty satin, consists of Interestingly
tailored pajamas, with flowing trouser
legs that fall into the semblance of a
skirt, and a matching, long negligee,
made on princess lines. The pajamas
have the well-liked sash.
While these costumes are suitable for
any young woman in her home, they
are known as students robes because
Of their popularity with school and col
lege girls.
Dark blue velvet is used for another
model and beautiful effects also are
created with simple materials, such as
cotton rnetalasse, In shades Of soft yel-
low and those new willow green's.
s. M. G.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
BRAz|L|ANS FAVOR
AMAZON COLONIES
Generals Plan to Increase
Population in Upper
Area Approved.
By the Associated Press.

By the Associated Press
MANAOS, Amazonas, Brazil,-Gen.
Hans Kundt's plans for a colonization
project in the Upper Arnazonian region
was well received in this one-time rub
Der capital, which considers Amazonian
possibilities long neglected
Gen. Kundt, now the adviser to the
Bolivian Army, which has been fight
ing Paraguayan troops in the Gran
Chaco, wants to bring settlers to upper
Amazonian territory in Brazil, Peru and
Colombia on a vast scale.
Rubber Center Cited.
Business men and officials in Manaos,
a modern city 1000 miles up the ANA
zon, contend that this town offers a
good example of what can be accom-
plished in equatorial America.
Although its population has de-
creased since the rubber boom COL
lapsed some years ago, ManaoS once
had $4,000 inhabitants.
Manaos hopes that something may
come Of Gen. Kundt's plan, for the
former rubber capital is the clearing
house for the entire upper Amazon
and has ambitions of regaining lost
glory.
Sanitation Is the biggest problem
attending colonization.
Colonists Prospering.
Hundreds of foreigners already are
living In the Amazonian Basin, and
Japanese agricultural colonies are pros
pering in the Lower Amazon. The first
Japanese colonists are now beginning
to appear in the Upper Amazonian
country.
Transportation by any of the dozens
of navigable rivers in the region is
easy. Capital and large-scale planning
are considered the prime necessities for
agricultural development.
Evening star., 1933-01-15

~ ONTRARY to popular opinion,
the sub-deb cares little about
aping her elders in the matter
~ of sophistication in dress, even
in the smallest degree So says
the buyer of one Of the most successful
shops in New York catering to very
young women. They do, however. she
continues. care about style features in
their clothes. They want something
new, something authentic In style.
Adjustable waistlines are insisted
upon" she continued. I'VE have found
it most important to have dresses of all
types with belts that may be shifted at
will, high about the ribs at one time, or
approaching the hips at another. Girls
love to be fussing with their belts and
placing them according to their fancy"
Evening coats must have the mark
Of elegance. Huge puffed sleeves are
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Pennsylvania Society
Dance Thursday Evening

Representative Robert F. Rich, re-
Gently elected president of the Pennsyl-
vania Society, is planning a very gay
entertainment for the meeting of the
society at the Willard Thursday evening
A majority Of the members of the Penn
sylvania congressional delegation and
their wives have signified their inten-
tions of attending the dance The dance
program will be under the direction of
Representative James Wolfenden and
Representative George F. Brumm, and
additional information may be had from
the secretary of the society, Mr.. A. M.
Gulick in Room 392 of the House Office
Building.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Gard Party by Rector's Aid
OF All Souls Memorial

The annual card party under the
auspices of the Rector's Aid Society of
All Souls Memorial Church, on Cathe-
dral avenue, will be held Monday eve
ming. January %, at O'Clock, in the
palm room of the Shoreham Hotel
Refreshments will be served. The pa
tronesses are Mrs. H. H. D. Sterrett,
Mrs. Louis Greene, Mrs John w. Burke,
Mrs H. H Kerslake, Mrs. Charles Dray-
ton, Mrs. William S. Quinter, Mrs
Webster Ballinger, Mrs. Frank S. Bright,
Mrs. Thomas c. Willis, Mrs. Arthur
Pierce, Mrs. E. Halbert Payne, Mrs. j.
j. King. Mrs. Katherine NARROW, Mrs
William D. Sterrett, Mrs. George w.
Eastment, Mrs Harry C. Grove, Mrs
Casenove Lee and Mrs Kathryn
Flqua.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Immaculate Conception
Alumnae Gard PARTY

Plans have been completed for q
card party to be given by the Immacu-
late Conception Academy Alumnae In
the school at 1854 Eighth street north
west Thursday at O'Clock.
Miss Antoinette Berger. In charge Of
the arrangements, is assisted by Miss
Marie Gaegler, Miss Margaret Kane,
Miss Katherine Bowers, Miss M. Louise
Sweeney. Miss Helen Higgins and Miss
Elizabeth Dannakl.
There will be other games for those
not desiring to play cards.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Iowa Society Dance
And Gard PARTY Saturday

The Iowa Society will hold a dance
and card party Saturday evening at the
Willard Hotel at $3.50 O'Clock A silver
loving cup will be awarded to the dis
trict in the State having the largest
representation at the meeting. This is
one Of the outstanding events of the
Iowa Society during the year. The
entire congressional delegation is ex-
pected to be present. Arrangements
are being made by Miss Gertrude Louis,
one Of the vice presidents, and Miss
Maud Phillips, secretary of the society.
The president, Col H. s. Merrick, has
extended invitations to other State on
GERS, as well as to prominent Iowans
residing or visiting in the city.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
BY NINE. MARCELLE LELY.

IF dress fashions move like the hour
hand OF a timepiece, millinery
fashions move like the minute
hand. That is to say, they change
much oftener; there is one show
ing OF dresses season and you know
that for the rest of that season the
models displayed will be stylish and
that you will feel correctly and appro-
priately attired in them But this Is
not true CT hats After the collections
are shown in the dressmaking salons
the modistes make their collections of
hats. and these collections are renewed
continuously throughout the season, SO
that if. from the dress, a Sharp-eyed and
accustomed fashion observer may know
approximately the month it was bought,
from hat it is possible to say almost
what week it was purchased.
So 1t falls upon the hat to renew the
freshness of costume necessarily and
communicate TO the accompanying dress
something of its own newness, thereby
keeping the ensemble up to the minute.
Since its mission is to give the tone Of
the entire costume, 1t strikes me as the
most important garment, followed by
shoes, which, however, need not be re-
placed SO often, since they can always
be counted upon to remain stylish prac-
tically until they are worn out, II they
have been properly chosen, avoiding
fads and extremes.
THAT the fabric Of the hat be new
is not essential, nor even the shape,
but there must be something new in
the technique with which 1t is executed
You will realize how true this is when
you recall that felt has recurred for
years and that the beret shape In one
form or another has enjoyed an almost
unhuctuating vogue for the longest
period. And this Ia o shape that ] an
again sponsoring. The newest note In
the latest collection Is based on the
beret. But while this is pushed up from
the rear, losing all suggestion OF the
snugness we associate with the original
beret shape, snug fitting strip OF fell
is used for mounting the beret, and
this descends, forming cache-peignt
in haf-moon shape at the rear, leaving
the beret free on top Of the head, with
as loose movement as canbe expressed
in felt. This is lower over the right
eye than the left. in keeping with ths
vogue. There must be q tilt, and Wink
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Separate Sleeves Shown
With COllarette Ideas

THE evening mode exploits maroca!n,
L s-tin, mousse ine de sole, veivec,
Toolcn enbroidcries and steel cmbroid-
cry Gray is smartly woven into this
collection, black and viole5 in COM
bination are successfully used in a
number of new models, while navy blue
and white are still united in some of
the most spring-like frocks shown. Two
shades of mauve and of brown are
other color combinations. Black and
white, as well as solid black. remain
favorites.
Only the details are new, these and
fresh surfaces on familiar fabrics. The
ribbings give velvet a new aspect, un-
accustomed crinklings make crepes re-
freShingly different, and somewhere in
every gown you will find some idea that
impartS the unmistakab,e air of Paris.
Copyright, 1933)
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Pear Blanc Mango.

Melt one tablespoonful Of powdered
gelatin over heat in half cupful of
water. Beat two egg yolks and cook
them with one cupful of milk, sugar 10
taste, half cupful Of canned pear
juice, and one cupful of water In a
double boiler until thick, then strain
into saucepan and stir in the melted
gelatin when both mixtures have cooled
a minute. Leave for Is minutes, then
stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream, and
when ready to set add half cupful Of
chopped canned pear. Use twice as
much pear If you wish. Pour into q
wet border mold Serve turned out,
filled with whipped, sweetened cream
If liked. and surround with fingers OF
pear.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Delaware State Society
Gard Party Tomorrow Night

The Delaware State Society will give
its annual card party tomorrow eve
ming in the Thomas Circle Club at
1925 Massachusetts, avenue. Refresh
mentS will be served and there viii be
prize for each table. Bridge, five
hundred or whatever is the favorite
card game will be played and many
Delawareans and their friends are ex-
pected.
secretary of the society and is chair
man of arrangements and Representa-
tive Robert G. Houston Of Delaware is
president.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Canadian Club to Give
Dinner Wednesday NIGHT

The Canadian Club Of washington
will hold the second of its series of
dinners In the Roosevelt Hotel wednes-
day at GAS O'Clock.
The guest speaker win be DR.. Allan
A. Stockdale, who has chosen for his
subject, why Do We Laugh?" An
excellent musical program has been
arranged by Mr. Sophocles T. Pappas
and Miss Eveline Monico.
DR.. g. Victor Simpson, president Of
the club, urges all members and their
friends to be present and invites any
new candidates in the city.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
COTTON TO PAY TUITION
Staple Acceptable at 10 Cents q
Pound at Howard College.

BIRMINGHAM. Ala, January IA
OFF a student can offer good mid
ding cotton. Howard College will ac-
cept 1t on tuition at 10 cents pound
for the second semester, opening Janu-
ary 30.
dents for their tuition and fees" DR..
T. v. Neal, president, announced yester-
day. "is being adopted by Howard as
o measure TO afford students over the
State an opportunity to attend college
who otherwise would not be able to at
tend or who would find it extremely
diff1cult to attend"
Evening star., 1933-01-15


the latest models. These have
IL been studied painstakingly and
are the center of the garments s
attractions You all remember when
not far back the corsage alone was
trimmed. also when the skirt was IA
vored with elaborate attention to the
exclusion of other parts OF the dress
So long as the line remains practlcalIy
the same, the trimming must travel
from place to place, for the very ma
ture of fashion is to be changing con-
stantly, and the Paris dressmakers
know that if they repeated one season
exactly what they did the preceding
one. their industry would be on its death
bed. So the location of the trimming
is a clear indication of the date OF the
dress: in a way it is like the hour hand
of the clock, and its situation on the
dial tells the whole story.
Right now the greatest importance Is
given sleeves and the very latest mocels,
like one fascinating evening gown In
white satin, has a collarette and sleeve
lets in red satin pleated into the shape
Of fat lotus petals The collarette ana
sIeeyelets are in one piece. You put II
on over the gown, high in front and
extremely decollete behind, somewhat
after the manner OF sweater. first the
arms then the head, and with TWIST
or two of the torso this gives the per-
feet finishing effect for which II Was
designed.
The value Of this idea is in keeping
the dress separate from its red trlm-
ming, so that if the sleeve-mode van
ishes while the dress itself remains IN
tact and in style, 1t may still be worn
all Summer with whatever other trim
ming becomes fashionable by then.
These sleevelets consist of a band that
falls about two inches above the elbow
and the rich fuchsia red used is truly
regal against the background Of white
satin.
DLAITED material and pads OF woolen
l. around the armholes are other
interesting details. Flat shoulders. then
generous fullness all around above the
elbow supple lego mutton sleeves, in
crustations of bands OF two co'ors en-
bro!dered with white on black sleeve;
wide bell sleeves in light material in
crusted the full length with bands of
woolen of the same color are other
new notes.
Some necklines are draped high up,
with scarfs forming plastron. Capes
and cape effects abound and there is a
lavish use of large henispherical but
tons; evening gowns, the waistline
marked high, fchu decollette, half.
sleeves. epaulettes of velvet on gowns
of other material, long tabs OF velvet
used in the same n1anrer-aH thess
are features. Occasionally there are
Grecian draperies, caught up WIZ
jewels
For daytime, it is the fancy wooler
dresses that are the success fou; fol
evening, silk meusseiine and satin have
been employed. Lots of coarse hand
knitted are among the featured day
fabrfos, also ribbed woolens, plain ane
corduroy English velvet, and crepes Wit
email printed designs.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
Chocolate Tafy.

Mix four level tablespoonfuls Of cocoa
with one cupful Of white granulated
sugar, add two cupfuls OF corn sirup.
and boil until It is brittle when dropped
In cold water Add one teaspoonful OF
vanilla. Pour while hot into buttered
platters and pull when cool enough to
handle.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
St. Marks Aid Society
Fellowship Dinner Thursday

The mid winter fellowship dinner of
the Aid Society Of st. Marks Episcopal
Church at Third and A streets SOUTH
east will be given Thursday from to
z O'Clock IN the Parish Hall
Mrs. Woodell Frazier will be hostess,
assisted by Mrs. Doyle, Mrs. Holmes,
Mrs. Trusheim, Mr.. Henry o. Blair and
Mr.. Frazier.
Evening star., 1933-01-15

Two hundred hello girls, many Of
whom speak several languages, are now
working on the international switch
board in London.
Evening star., 1933-01-15
BY sYLyESTRE DORIAN.

Director Of The Paris Fashion Service.
The writer's of the Paris Fashion serv-
ice who rotate as contributors to this
series of articles, are the following
Agnes-Drecoll, Bruyere, Cheruit, Helm.
Lanvin, Louise Boulanger, Hubert. Paule-
Madoc Martial ct Armand, q AhetZe
Lyolene, Patou, MoiyneuX. lie Monnier.
Rose Valois, Rose Drescat, Schiaparelli,
Maggy Rouff. Marcel Rochas, Lucille
peray,
Evening star., 1933-01-15
PARIS. January 2.

PARIS, January Z.
~ IVERSITY of sleeves is the
most striking characteristic of
the latest models. These have
IL been studied painstakingly and
are the center of the garments
Evening star., 1933-01-15

F dress fashions move like the hour
hand Of timepiece, millinery
fashions move like the minute
hand. That is to say, they change
Evening star., 1933-02-19

and why you ought to get along to-
gether," concluded Lordy with the utmost
calmness. And now"
tall Satsuma vase crashed to the floor at
the other end of the studio
Oh you young idiots!" shouted Lordy
wrathfully. And sped off down the length OF
the studio.
Stephen and Miss Crawford stared after
him.
LAS mad" said Daphne Crawford "as a
halter"
Nader said Steve. Much madder."
nAPHNE CRAWFORD and Stephen Trevor
actually found themselves to be ideal COM
pan1ons On the subject of marriage particu-
larly were their views in complete agreement
In tneSe days." Stephen would say with all
the gravity his 80 years entitled him to use.
marriage is milestone which the average
young man can't afford to hang around his
neck. II he does-itn sink him every time"
And Daphne's opinion, equally sincere:
woman has to choose either marriage or
career. She certainly can't have BOTH And
I've chosen career simply because I believe
1t to be the more satisfying"
1t was not, in fact until six months after
their first meeting at Lordy's party that rift
unexpectedly appeared in this platonic lutte
Ihey had just returned from theater to-
sether ana Daphne was showing Steve some
rough drawings she had made in connection
Win new movie palace to be erected in New
YORK. Tne company that intended building it,
sne explained, had made the plans the subject
of competition.
And If only could land it," she was saving.
ITO be the biggest thing I've ever done. But
there's very little chance, I'm afraid There are
pound 70 be hundreds of other entries"
SLepHen made some frita coropoort ~ ~.
virtues of optimism
ana taking OF plans" he added, "reminds
me OF something I'd almost forgotten I was
Evening star., 1933-02-19
Army's Master Tailor Retires
ME Army's authority on uniforms, Charles
E. Lghtfoot, who has served for more
BY George CARL

ME Armys authority on uniforms, Charles
E. Lghtfoot, who has served for more
Il than quarter of century at. the War
Department as clothing designer for the
Quartermaster Corps, will terminate on Febru-
airy g. 1888, total of 321a years of Govern
ment service. This public servant, who has
resided on Columbia pike in Arlington County,
Just across the Potomac, for nearly a quarter
OF century, was born on February 20, 1863,
at Port Pitt. Chatham, England.
At the age of 18 he enlisted in the British
Army and became assistant master tailor at the
youthful age of 20. Two of the three years
which he served with the British armed forces
MIR. Lightfoot spent in Ireland and upon at
tanning his majority he left the army to be-
come master tailor at the Royal Victoria Hos
pital, which at that time was the headquarters
OF the Army Medical Corps of the British
Army. In 1887 young Lghtfoot set foot on
american soil and after working in New York
City for some time he enlisted In the United
States Cavalry, underwent four months of
training at Jefferson Barracks, Mo, upon the
completion OF which he joined H Troop of
the 9th United States Cavalry at San Antonio,
Tex. In the Fall of that year his regiment
marched to Fort Davis, Tex
One OF the outstanding feats recorded in the
history OF this famous American cavalry regi-
ment, which has rendered extraordinary serv-
Ice down to the present day, the units of which
are now stationed in Texas was its famous
12O-day march overland of 214O miles from
Fort Concho, Tex, to Fort Mead S. Oak This
march, supreme test of both man and beast,
was ordered for the purpose of determining the
relative transportation cost of overland march
ing and that OF rail. In May, 1888, the entire
oth Cavalry assembled at Fort Concho and
the fonr-month march to Fort Mead began
Upon arrival at Fort Mead, the regiment dis
banded, the troops taking station in different
posts In the department, designated at that
Time as the Dakotas. Troop was ordered
10 Fort Keogh, Mont. In the Summer of 1890
the troop built a cantonment or dugout on
the Tongue River, situated about 100 miles from
Fort Koegh, and while in this camp the troops
served as escort to Gen. Nelson A. Miles. ia
nous for settling disputes with the Indians,
VINO came West for a pow-wow with the Chey-
ennes.
In the Winter Of 1890-91 young Lightfoot's