Evening star., 1933-05-07
BY CHERUIT.

"HE couturier Is constantly con-
fronted with a problem-how
to attain variety and interest
i in the clothes she creates, with
out falling into the dangerous
neld Of eccentricity. Every season one
sees costumes which, in the desire for
Their details are too exaggerated, their
line Is far from classic simplicity.
OF course, every designer must strive
constantly for new effects and new
ideas, but at the same time he must
remember the laws Of good design and
not infringe on the laws Of good taste.
The same is equally true Of women
In choosing frocks and assembling a
costume. 1t is not very hard to bring
together a costume of distinction and
chic, yet find that there are only a
very few women who can do this sim
pie thing. Sometimes. in their eager
do pass the borders of good taste, and
In their interest In variety, they
achieve eccentricity. The woman who
does not realize that good taste must
hlways govern the choice Of every cos
tume may fail to distinguish between
smart simplicity and absurd faddish-
hess.
\ y
I'm the other hand. the well dressed
woman must not sin on the side
Of plainness or dullness. A costume
may be absolutely correct from the
distinction and interest. So simplicity
hnd good taste are not enough. There
must be something in the costume
the line. the color. the accessories,
which adds a note Of zest to the en-
pemble. Otherwise, the dress will never
rise from the ranks Of mediocrity. And
this holds true also of the designer.
ANY one could design a costume that
was correct, and In good taste, but to
design frock marked by good taste,
and at the same time by an indefinable
something which we call chic, Is the
work Of a master.
would counsel you in choosing your
own costumes to think of this differ
ence-because I cannot explain 1t to
you It Is something you learn to feel
tnstinctively You have before you two
gowns, equally well made, equally suit
able, but one OF them has a subtle
something that IS known &C chic. Some
times it may lie in the line alone. This
Is true, I feel, in an evening costume
OF black cire lace. I nodded the gown
to the figure-one Of the most beauti-
full lines conceivable. I emphasized the
smallness of the waist by flaring pep
lum, and I called attention to the slen-
der column Of the entire body by long
fitted lines of the skirt. The line Of
this gown was so lovely in itself shat
did not counteract the effect by add
ing flowers or a colored girdle. do
not for a moment mean that on some
gowns this kind of ornament might not
be lust the note that would add dis
tinction, but in this particular gown, the
line is the important thing, SO I did
not minimize It by adding any orna-
naent.
HoMErnMs, on the other hand. a
~ single piece of jewelry Is the means
by which chic Is achieved. piece OF
bade, a necklace Of 1apis lazuli or crystal
may, as we say, make" a dress. In
other words, it adds that subtle note
which we call chic. Chic may reside
in nothing more important than . piece
of pique used to face q lapel or IN
belt Of bright patent leather on woolen
trock.
II you have ever taken the trouble
10 study women who have won . repu-
tAtion for distinguished dressing, you
may be surprised to discover the very
simple ways in which they add this
quality of chic to their costumes. It
may be bright-colored scarf ON dark
Aaxlored suit; it may be an Interestingly
Carved fastening on the bag which
breaks the simplicity Of the costume
Hnd gives the interest always to be
sound In their costumes.
$s Women who have learned this secret