Evening star., 1933-08-13
BY SYLVEsTRE DORIAN,

Director OF the Paris Fashion Service.
The writer's of the Paris Fashion
Service who rotate as contributors
to this series of articles are the fol-
lowing: Agnes-Drecoll, Bruyere,
Cheruit, Helm. Lanvin, Louise Bou-
LANCER, Hubert, Paule- -Madoc, Mar
tial ct Armand DAhetZe, Lyolene,
Patou, Molyneux. LIE Monnier, Rose
Valois. Rose Descat, Schiaparelli,
Maggy 'Rouff, Marcel Rochas and
Lucille Paray
PARIS, August S.
- VENING gowns as seen this
l. Summer are of two distinct
types There is the informal
IL youthful type of gown in or
CANDY, organza, piQue and ging-
ham. This is the sort of thing that is
seen most often at the various resorts
It Is gay and intriguing and its creators
often seem to have taken pride in
achieving smart and interesting effects
with the simplest and most unexpected
materials. Who, for instance, would
ever have considered gingham, or cot
ton pique for evening costumes? Yet
inspired by Schiapareli and Chanel,
not only these. but other simple, un-
pretensious materials appear in the
smartest places. There is something
refreshing in gingham gown, cut on
sophisticated lines, and young women
have not been slow 70 realize the
charms Of this type.
At the casino at lie Touquet not long
ago fully half of the young women
were wearing gowns of this unpre-
tentious type, and the general effect
could not have been more chic.
Molyneux has revived voie, in plain
and printed colors, in some of his most
f,t1 ,ic fol brin
appeals not only to young women, but
to older women and to the young wom-
an of mature figure; it has all the ad-
vantageS of organdy and gingham. but,
because Of its softly draping qualities,
1t proves more becoming to such Wom-
en- than the stiff materials.
One OF the SmarteSt costumes at LIE
Touquet was a white voile, with large,
widely spaced flowers of deep mauve.
The skirt fitted the hips snugly and
flared just sufficiently at the bottom
to give a pleasant effect of fullness.
The bodice was cut to the waist at
across the rather high decolletage in
front. A girdle of cire ribbon, with
long ends, completed the costume,
which for all its simplicity was as smart
as anything I saw that evening
This simple, informal kind of gown
Is not the only thing seen this Sum-
mer. There is a distinct tendency on
the part of many women, particularly
older and very sophisticated women, to
forSake these naive gowns and to adopt
much more elaborate costumes. The
gingham gown, these women realize. is
only fad and, having played with the
fad for little, they are ready to go
back to the more elegant. impressive
tyDe of gown
x
\ T the casinos in LIE Touquet, Deau-
"A vile and Biarritz and at the Medi-
terranean resorts, of course. the cotton
gown is much in evidence, but in
Paris and at smart privake dinners and
balls one is likely to see number of the
more formal costumes, even during the
dog days. This is all in line with the
return to elegance, which marks the
dressing Of many women. These wom-
en- realize. and rightly, that the naive
sort of thing is all very we'll for the
very young. but they know, too, that the
more sophisticated type of gown is a
much better foil for their own graceS
and charms.
At smart evening gathering at one
of the villas at LIE Touquet l noted some
very handsome gowns of this latter sort.
There was, for instance, the Molyneux
costume of white satin, fabric which
becomes more and more important as
the season advances. This gown is cut
- classical princess Lines. fitting the