Evening star., 1933-05-28
PARIS. Nav 20.

ME IeCeQC n1QSedSOn openings
have not so much introduced
new trends as confirmed certain
Il ones already established at
earlier openings. The casual non-
chalant air, SO noticeable in many cos
TUNES, continues to play an important
part. This is to be noted especially in
the vogue for svasgcr cCatS. These were,
OF course, first shown several months
ego, but the Spring showlngs at various
salons continue to stress their impor-
tancc. There is great variety even in
this mode, however-more variety than
one would expect.
: First OF ALL the new swaggers appear
IN every conceivable length. At Maggy
Rouf1's they are shown in hip length
short, naring jackets of extremely youth
ful line. Lanvin, on the other hand,
shows a sort of modified swagger, a long
slender coat, belted at the back.
Shoulders continue to stand out, quite
literally. However, the newest trend Is
upward rather than outward. Schiapa-
relli, Lelong and Worth add a rounded
standing flap back of the armhole.
Both Rouf and Schiapareln use tubular
trimming at the top Of coat sleeves.
In short, there is no lessening of in
tere5t in the shoulder line which has
characterized the mode for some time
past,
Among some of the more striking
costumes. shown both at the opening
and noted about town recently, are the
silk suits featured by Worth Several
are in back satin finished taffetas,
worn with black dotted white organdy
blouses. There is certain severe
srnartness about these suits. always re-
freshing in Summer months when so
many light colors and pastels are in
AtddAnRA 1Unlann ic
lively in several tailored suits, with
plain skirt, swagger jacket and organdy
or fine cotton blouses.
X
A SMART suit which I noticed the
"A other day was in black fiat crepe,
with short box jacket and long sleeves.
interesting new feeling was a scarf,
tied in a large bow with long floating
ends of black lace. The wearer of this
sophisticated costume carried a fox
fur and wore one of the large new
hats which are beginning to be seen
frequently as the weather grows more
Eummery.
Another smartly simple costume
which have seen several times here IN
Paris Is the Lanvin in very light
weight wooden. This has a plain wrap
around skirt, a hip-length box jacket,
collarless but with a trimming band
down the front and around the neck.
Width is given at the shoulders by
group Of outstanding pleats over the top
OF the sleeve When ! saw this suit the
other afternoon it was worn with dark
bouse with diagonal stripes and an
ascot tie of the same fabric. the
COSTUME was worn with one OF the
quaint. tight-fitting pointed hats that
are beginning to take the place OF the
more severe chechia.
A smart novelty, shown in the recent
openings. is Maggy Rouff's stripped
cravat silk blazers, which this couturler
intends both for wear in town and in
the country. I noticed one Of them
worn the other morning over a dark
yoolen frock The effect was smart
and unusual With this costume, by the
yay, was worn one of the new wide
brimmed felts that many women are
adopting. The brim turned up ever
90 slightly at the back, down in the
front and the crown was marked by
three folds
These new Wide-brimmed felts, Incl
dentally, are becoming very popular for
sport end informal town wear. The
brims are usually flexible and the
crowns oftener than not are creased
INTO lOlQS, WHICH NdIY IOiISANCA AMY
Frequently the fold in around the top
OF the crown, so as to give the effect
OF a higher crown at back than in
front Or the height may be placed
on one side. the back, the other side
and the front being low.
INDEED, there is more interest in hats
J. this season than for a long time.
Not only have the modistes brought
some really new and original modes,
notably the fez, but they have sue
ceeded in giving new interest to the
sailor. Then. too. the big picture hat
seems certain to be very much in the
limelignt for Summer wear. The new
nair for cottons, particularly the sheers.
like organdy and voile, make it i'm
portant that hats should harmonic.
And no hat seems quite SO in keeping
with frilly Summer frocks as the big
hat Often these are in organdy. Tai
bot, for instance, shows a most in
triguing model in organdy, embroidered
IN straw This has a charming mar
row strip of yelling around the brim.
with a group of modernistic flowers in
pyralin. Worn with an organdy frock,
the effect is charming.
cutie as important as the organdy
hat are the new stitched linen hats