The Waterbury Democrat., 1933-12-12

where beige, natural, grege and liz
 Luxurious afternoon and even ing dresses are still being offered, completed by fox or beaver trimmed long or three-quarter coats. Lame moire, gold stitching and lame used as a decorative element on afternoon as well as evening gowns are new points. A great sobriety both in line and de- tail distinguish these collections, which can always be considered in the light of a summing-up of what has been retained of the winter mbode as becoming, and forecast of spring styles too.
 The swagger, three-quarter or seven-eighths jacket is still modish as are blouses, both the tuckin and the over-blouse variety. Scarfs, separate collars of both fud and fabric offering various collar ef- fects will obviously still be fashion able right on until early spring.
 Worth stresses all the forego- ing features in his demie-saison collection. Black, brown and navy are used for daytime wear, but the softest of pastel blues and greys appear in the Palm Beach type of ensemble.
 This house also stresses moire in both the plain and lame vari- ety for its new evening gowns, which are alL cut on long slim skirt lines, with an amusing ruff fle effect outlining one side of the decollete both in the front as well as in the back.
 Dilkusha's sports clothes are as original and unexpected as they are becoming. Her beach ensem- bles, usually comprising an or iginal skirt slipped over Q bath irG suit, are very colorful and navel. Her beach shorts have little skirts that can be worn as capes or vice versa. One yellow cotton ottoman beach jacket, fin ger-tip length, is made to wear over gray diagonal-striped bath ing suit banded and beletd in black. The. jacket has an amusing capu- chino collar and here again the color combination is smart and unusual.
 Suits, afternoon and evening dresses are slim of line and sim- pie, usually trimmed with lastex ribbon or metallic Lastex ''fur. !" Colors are Venetian pink, Im- perial yellow and link blue, with the usual amount of black for afternoon and evening wear.
 The outstanding features of Maggy Reuff's collection are her original treatment of fur, the use of lame in the guise of puff sleeves, and scarf Things for both day and evening dresses, her gold metal stitching used as a decora- tive element, her wide turn-back surplice cuffs. The line here is slightly Directoire, especially mo- ticeable in the afternoon coats and evening dresses. She has continued her basque effects, and a certain evening gown with double far ed peplum over @ slim trained skirt shows an entirely new line for evening styles.
 Pockets are another decorative element which she uses often. Beautifully draped bodices dis tinguish the formal afternoon dresses. Jabots are another fea- ture of this collection.
 Schiaparelli's newest line is the 'airplane" effect which she fea- lures in her evening dresses espe- cially, and in some of her hats. Still another innovation with this enterprising creator is an entirely new flare to her skirts which is achieved by a clever distribution of front fitness. Her forward movement in coat and packet col lars is absolutely new and evoca- tive of the "incroyable" period. This illusion is completed by the ruffled ribbon scarfs of variegat- ed colors which are tucked inside these collars.
 Other elements of interest are completely fiat backs, nipped-in waists, box shoulder silhouette enhanced by square sleeve tops, long wrinkled sleeves, sometimes forming one with a back yoke and carried out in ruffled striped rib- bon, brilliantly colored chenille scarfs worked in intricate looped effects and forming a jabot in front. The hats, an important fea- ture with Schiaparelli. effect soft and jaunty beret shapes, worn well on one side of the head and some times feather-trimmed, a new back hat-line which calls 'avion," brimmed shape with a pointed crown and crested effect at the back, and new variation of the knitted bonnet which is called ''snuffer." also worn on one side.
 Evening fabrics are astonishing, from the handsome jet embroid- cred fabrics, heavy and stiff stains to the gold threaded "crepe clapo- tis." Flowers egg and grey blue, yellow, green, red and black are all featured in formal evening gowns, which are ankle length in front but trained at the back. De- colletes continue high in front and nude at the back with an original outstanding volant underling the movement and matching the air. plane skirt effect. The latter is a biascut double fold of the mate- rial attached to the skirt just be- lowthe waist in such a way that it standsout in a way that reminds one of the back of plane. grad ually decreasing to a mere strip at the hem