The Waterbury Democrat., 1933-08-22
BY RosETTE HARGRovE (NEA Service Writer)

Paris.-Fashions are said to re- fleet the times. and this certainly seems true of the clothes offered by the Parisian creators for the autumn. Never in the history of the mode have there been so many diverse trends. While the funda. mental line, so far as things prac- tical are concerned, is more or less normal and static, with trimming interpreted according to the indivi- dual creators ideas, fantasy reigns supreme in clothes for leisure hours.
 Luxurious and unusual fabrics and color contrasts, often achieved by the fur trimming. has been the aim of every couturier. Fur, as matter of fact, never has been used quite so lavishly. It lines in- formal coats, in the less expensive varieties. and is used in enormous quantities on afternoon and even- and astrakhan being the big favor ties for fall.
 Fancy wool fabrics, nearly all fiecked with white, fashion sports clothes. Diagonal stripes. fancy checks and tweeds, with heavy Melton cloth, represent the novel, ties.
 Trains are in again for formal evening wear. Everybody features them. Molyneux, Schiaparelli, Mag BY Rouff, Lelong and Marcel Ro- chas. Wonderful artificial flowers in the most unusual color contrasts trim one side of the decollete at Molyneux's. Velvet gloves and belts in a deeper shade than the dress or directly contrasting are other highlights of this collection, and | sometimes this is completed by a velvet hat. Marcel Rochas, one of the young est but most popular couturier with Paris younger set, offers the most modernistic collection. He labels his clothes as Dynamic" adding that he was unable to re- sist the temptation of continuing on the acutely modern theme of built-up shoulders. which he was the first to launch over two years ago, amid great hue and cry.
 All his coats are slightly bell shaped at the hem and fullness is concentrated toward the front, | both at the shoulder line and in the skirts. Deep, masculine poe kets distinguish his sports coats. a | feature which will give younger | women a whole set of new atti- 1 tudes. Rochas' unusual treatment of | the. shoulder line is expressed in | terms of cylinders, cones, boatsails, l fins and outstanding seams. They | are not voluminous, but the result | is distinctly new and rather start | ling.
 His evening clothes are interest | ing, to say the least. Directoire or Merveileuse in inspiration, they are l long very slim and trailing. The | neckline is high in front and gen. l erously decollette at the back. They ] are obviously impractical but high ly picturesque, especially when | completed by "Milady" hat, wide | of brim and trimmed with a sweep ing ostrich feather. Some are sleeved and the skirt is slit almost | to the knee in front.
 Schiaparelli's establishment was bristling with excitement when she showed her latest ideas. Her | new silhouette is extremely simple. l Skirts are slim and straight. with | waistlines and skirt lines normal. | She retains her wide-at-the-top sil- | houette, believing 1t to be the best | expression of the modern woman. |
 Bodies are nearer perfection than | ever before, according to this artist. so clothes have not to hide quite so many faults. The result is a great simplicity. Luxurious fabrics bring their note of splendor to daytime as well as evening clothes.
 Black is first favorite for both daytime and evening. with touch es of sky. llama, cathay and ombre blue, dashine Chinese reds. one very vivid (Peipjng) and the other 8 dark and dull shade (BeteD with generous sprinkltng of beige. brown and granite grays.
 Molyneux continues to stress the fitted hipline silhouette throughout his collection. His day clothes are slimrs with the waistline normal, and skirt hems reasonably long. es- sentially quiet and distinguished in their coloring, line and fur trim- ming.s
 Black is replaced by deep, al- most navy, blue and furs are dyed the same color. All Rochas' sports things are fashioned of fancy fab- rics and sometimes combine two such unusual colors as red and white diagonal striped lainage 1 trimmed with navy blue astrakhan 7 over a navy blue dress. Green, gray and brown are also featured. Afternoon dresses are either black or navy blue, and startlingly | novel buttons. belts and hats ac- company them. Rochas launches a new fur called "sky aigrette" which