Evening star., 1933-02-26
New Collections in Paris
Reveal Chic Simplicity

-FOUR times each year, the great
houses of couture present their new
models to the eager world. These open
ings are like the first night of an
important play Hundreds and hun
dreds Of men and women from all over
the world crowd Paris to view the pro-
cession Of mannequins and to study the
new styles that have been launched.
In great, beautiful salons, brilliantly
lighted, the mannequins sway past with
the elegant costumes that soon Will be
the fashion of the smart women every
where.
Before these showings. with their
pomp and splendor, there Is Hurry
of excitement back stage. For weeks
workers in all the atelierS have been
working frantically. The head of the
house. who is usually also the designer.
has turned his whole creative genius
to the designing of new gowns.
Every designer. Of course, has his
own way of working. Some work in a
kind Of mad frenzy OF artistic creation,
turning out hundreds Of models In a
few weeks Some designers never work
| without mannequins before them. With
a living model the designer drapeS his
materials, changing a line here, adding
drapery there, building the gown,
step by step, until it pleases his sense
of design and elegance.
Many designers allow the materials
with which they work to suggest the
costume. A crisp taffeta takes on GER
tain lines by virtue of its qualities. The
designer lets these natural lines suggest
to him the frock on which he Is work.
ing. A rough tweed may fall in sturdy
straight lines, calling to mind a hunts
mans cape; and from this idea the
creator builds jaunty sports costume.
Women designers, I feel, are pecu-
liarly able to build and plan costumes
eminently practical. I myself, for in
stance, think of myself in magnif1-
cent ball room, or in some chic restau-
rant. I visualize the clothes in which
I would like to appear-clothes abso-
lutely harmonious with the background
and almost instantly the design for q
costume Is suggested to me.
Therein I believe lies true elegance,
The costume that is truly harmonious
with its background is certain to be
chic and at the same time truly prac-
tical The costume created IN this
manner can scarcely fail to please
women.
OF course, in the last analysis, it is
" the women of the smart world who
pass final Judgment on the hundreds
Of costumes that the designers OF Paris
create We create, but it IS you who
accept or reject our creations. From
the many costumes offered to you IN
any season you must choose those
,iaI, ~ tor ov1vy
own needs and taste.
for my part do not wish my Glen
tele to accept blindly the creations OF
some salon. I am much happier when
client shows me that she has taste
and individuality of her own and Is not
blind follower of the style. For that
means that such woman has an
artists appreciation of line and color.
She will not accept a model simply as
an addition to her wardrobe, but Will
really value whatever 1t may have OF
originality and interest.
In my own salons two principles are
supreme: Simplicity and elegance. No
model which fails to measure up 10
this dual mark Is ever offered. Th1s
sometimes means the rejection OF an
idea. It often means a careful consid-
Grafton Of the uses to which costume
will be put. A dancing frock, however
beautiful, is not well designed if it Is
SO elaborate or 30 cut that dancing be-
comes dificult. A dinner gown on the
other hand might easily be Of a COM
ulicated design, since its wearer pre-
sumably will move about very little.
I have given you brief idea Of the
story behind the creation Of Paris
model, with some hint Of the principles
involved In successful designing. I
should also like to emphasize this
point: That no gown, however success
fully designed, can be q success unless
chosen wisely for the occasion.
N the Associated Press.
-" (oopyright: :H933.a