davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
All Styles Must Reflect
Trends of Present Day

that the former no longer can lay
claim to such name, while the poorer
ones, since they were all along dressing
by taste and not money, are as attrac-
lively attired as ever.
The woman with personal ideas for
dressing is essentially happy. She has
the secret satisfaction of knowing she
has something that cannot be taken
from her when the stock market drops
She knows she has an advantage over
many more well-to-do than herself
something that is in her very blood and
inseparable from her She is always
pleasantly occupied. She sees a hundred
times more in a piece Of cloth or a
dozen buttons or new color than do
other women. The possibilities of ma
terials occur to her inStinctively, and
she cannot see a piece of cloth without
having flock of ideas as to how II
could be most effectively used.
New coats are full of ideas and these
are rather fur-trimmed than of fur
throughout, except for evening. The
mode now is to wear a fur-trimmed coat
with a tiny hat of the same fur, but
still more effective is the untrimmed
wooden coat, worn with fur accessories.
II there is set of fur accomplishments
to be worn with the coat, these are
separate and can be worn with other
coats, OF in the case of the sets includ-
ing capelets, worn in mild weather over
any dress.
\
4 LITTLE fur goes a long way now.
There is coat trimmed in fur but
tons and this Is the only fur used; still
the model is fur-trimmed and has that
tnmlstakable Wintry touch as we'll as
the trimmed note only fur can impart.
Another coat has one lapel in fur, while
stlll another has fur epaulettes. Fur
vests are smart, and these may be worn
as part Of the dress and seen through
the open coat as if they actually were a
part OF the outer garment. Any new
way that fur can be used without en-
numbering coat. that is, losing its fiat
and plastic effect, is to be admired.
one woman, strange though you will
ind her taste, has had fur earrings
made, heavy looking balls of fur that
give the finishing touch needed to bring
out the dark lights in her lustrous hair
and eyes. She is just the type of wom-
an to wear these, and they match the
turban, Of which they appear to be a
part.
fur-cuffed gloves are seen as COM
PIGMENT to untrimmed coats, too. The
trimming for plain wooden coat, then,
is achieved through the new use of a
little fur in the accessories. Black. dark
navy blue and green are some of the
shades in which we are making such
coats. Green of a deep shade, also
somber purple and the reds and browns
related to rust, are equally in vogue.
II you have an individual idea for
dressing in a particularly personal way,
now is the time to give it expression. A
piece OF nat fur and thought all your
own are what you need for making a
contribution to fashion. Everything that
has ever been fashionable began in this
way, by first being worn by one person
who believed in it and had the courage
OF his or her belief. Little ideas like
this give character to the new coats in
serviceable woolens that are now being
worn In such quantities In Paris.
Copyright. 1889
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
Black Most Popular Now;
Hats and Jackets Match

y UST shades are seen on thousands
of dresses. and some attractive
wooden coats also exploit these. Hats
still tilt to one side, and this tilt may
be to either side, according to your own
idea as to which looks best with your
profile, but the tilt-up on the right,
being the opposite from what was worn
last year, is one way of marking your
hat as a more recent creation. Open
work models have much variety.
These may show but one or two inches
of hair or more. One model l saw
seemed, when viewed from directly in
front, to be a substantial hat, for a
black fur bow looked imposing; but
seen from the sides or behind, this was
the chief part of the creation, which
was only a basketwork, coarse hair
net of the narrowest bands, with square
spaces, two square inches gaping be-
tween, and the wearer's hair, of course,
perfectly visible and practically I'M
covered.
If your sleeves are individual enough,
and bear marks of having received
special attention, your dress will be
all right, no matter what its color or
fabric, and If your coat and turban are
at least visible first cousins, the fash
condolences of these, too, need cause you
no anxiety. A little fur, used artfully
and with character, is the keynote of
a Winter mode that is both practical
and lovely. Many of the best dressed
ladies are wearing fur-accessory en-
sembles made out of old coats, but this
does not lessen their loneliness. In
NlzSr Iii
less garments into wearable ones may
very well be the reason, in these times
when ingenuity must strive to keep up
appearances on reduced resources, for
the introduction of this mode.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
SHORT ENLISTMENTS
URGED FOR RELIEF
Admiral Cluverius Sponsors Plan
to Help Unemployed for
Four-Month Periods.
BY the Associated Press.


GREAT LAKES, III, January T.
Enlistment Of unemployed men in the
Navy for four-month periods was sug-
gested yesterday by Admiral Wat T.
Cluverius, commandment of the Great
Lakes Naval Training Station, as o re-
lief and rehabilitation measure.
Admiral Cluverius said the training
station which he commands is "pre-
pared to welcome $500 unemployed
young men" for four month period oil
enlistment and training
The Government for $500 or less each
could outfit, feed, train and house them
and pay a small salary In addition, he
said. At the end of the period they
would be returned to civil life good
citizens, with the rudiments of a trade
and money in their pockets"
The conmandant displayed kilograms
from Secretary of the Navy Charles
Francis Adams and Admiral Frank B
Upham, chief of the Bureau of Navi-
cation. approving the plan. .
Senator Couzens of Michigan, he said
was enthusiastic" about it and would
sponsor bill in Congress to author
ize it.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
Striking Necklines Seen
In New French Clothes

has fox fur lying fiat across the back
and over the shoulders. The small col
lar of the accompanying dress, which is
Of rose beige silk, is visible above the
neckline of the coat in the back as well
as in the front. Gored sections, run
ming from the armholes to the side belts,
enhance the slim effect. Brilliant con-
trast is effected by an orange colored
belt on the dress.
A NEW heavy black marocain, with a
satin back, is used by MolyneuX in
the series of afternoon gowns which he
calls cinema dresses" The two sides
of the silk, both the dull and shiny, are
used with good effect. A shoulder knot
of velvet, black, white and flame color,
gives an air of dressiness to a simply
yet excellently cut dress, its long lines
accumulated by the skirt being carried
up into the bodice.
Costume jewelry continues in favor,
valued by many of the designers be-
cause of its color or design. which may
be used to complete an ensemble idea.
Bronze and copper in the new pinky
shades of chrome have taken the place
of nickeled effects. A popular design
for costume jewelry is a string of disks
lying fiat against the neck, or a string
Of hollow half marbles, sometimes
graduated, sometimes all Of size, and
usually In copper tones. In the pinky
metal there are some heavy fiattened
chains mace to lie fiat against the neck.
Composition jewelry in various colors
may be used with good effect to COM
plete costume color schemes, as In neck
laces made of colored beads the size
and shape of spools. Another interest
ing type OF necklace is the huge rope
made Of inf1umerable strands of heavy
beads the size of a pinhead, in rich
brown, leaf green, gentian blue and dull
coral. These are held by q single metal
clasp. 5. M. 6.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08


4 garments were appropriate in those
prosperous years when everybody
had plenty of money. and reflected the
conditions Of the time, the practical
dresses and coats in wearable woolens
are a reflection of the changed condi-
tions under which we are living today.
And the whole essence of style is ap-
propriateness, a reflection in dress of
prevailing conditions. 1t is bad taste
to 60 to an informal affair In formal
clothes One is criticized for being
uverdreSsed, or clothed in excess of the
requirements of the occasion. This is
just as true Of the woman whose ward
robe reflects false prosperity. Today
the deliberately dressed woman Is not
fashionable.
You may say that for a rich woman
to dress richly is rejecting her own
condition, but this is no answer to my
argument. That styles reflect an in
dividual state is insufficient; they must
reflect the existing trends that touch
the lives of everybody. 1t would be little
short Of vulgar mockery for a rich
woman to exploit general depression fol
making her wealth conspicuous; now Is
the time of all times when women with
taste show It, Any woman with money
can load herself down with f1nery, with
costly fabrics and elaborate details; but
the test of innate smartness is when
money is lacking and a woman can
maintain her chic reputation despite
this embarrassing fact.
X 4
MANY who used to have big income:
AVE- were known as smart dressers
others, too. who had relatively little
enjoyed the same reputation. Now that
money Is scarce, it is interesting to see
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
Scotch Short Bread.

Mix together one pound of white -four
and half pound of butter. Stir in
one-fourth pound of sugar and the yolk
of one egg. Work with the hands until
stiff. Cut in two portions. Sugar the
board instead of Touring it and mold
the dough, pinching the edge like pas
try. Prick with a fork to prevent its
rising in biisters. Mark it before bak-
ing and break it when serving. Put on
tin or in a round tin, ungreassd, and
bake Q long time in q very slow oven.
1t is fawn color when done and Is solf
until cold. 1t is improved by putting
the dough into cool place for an hour
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
Copyright. 1890

= ONE have no collars at the back,
but tiny turnover lapels in the
front; some are simply SCARED;
~ others show a sharp v in the
front, still others are in ZiZZags
or triangular points-this is the story of
the necklines of the new French dresses.
Let the collar of the dress be visible
above the neckline of the coat and have
both coats and dresses tightly fitted.
This seems to be an invariable rule with
the French designers in making the new
clothes for Spring.
The tendency to cut coats with lower
necklines is another noteworthy point
In the latest Partisan creations.
Lanvin demonstrates another inter-
esting fashion feature in one of the coll
larlesS shoulder capes of fur; tied with
wide scarfs that may be in plain colors,
simply stitched, or in gayly plaided silks.
CLOSELY fitted Is LAnvin's line. espe-
~ cially in coats Of extreme simplicity
This simple line also is an important
one with other dressmakers. One coat
in this effect wraps around and buttons
at the back.
A one-piece fitted dress by Lanvin
is typical of an entire SERIES which is
varied only In small details The sharp
v neck is favorite with this designer
and the huge pocket is an interesting
detail. The skirt is of ankle length.
Mainbocher's new type Of Spring coat
Is fitted and very simple, with the low
bateau neckline revealing the collar of
the dress. The shortened sleeve is an
other means Of disclosing the material
OF the dress beneath. as in a coat Of
black wool worn over dress Of marc
cain, striped in black, white and red
and cut to feature an interesting piec-
ing Of the stripes.
Beige, black and bright prints espe-
cially in stripes, are favored. A new
type Of coat by Mainbocher, with the
neckline cut low in both front and back,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
$15,054,627 ASSETS
OF LATE GEORGE GOULD
Wife Left Bulk of Property, Tax
Appraisal Shows-$4OO, OOO,-
600 Claims Settled.
BY the Associated Press.

BY the Associated Press.
NEW YORK. January George Jay
Gould. financier, who died May 16, 1923,
a resident of Lakewood, N. j., left gross
assets of $l5,054,627. transfer tax ap-
praisal filed yesterday disclosed.
The bulk of the estate went to his
widow, Mrs. Guinevere Sinclair Gould
Dunsford Of Kent, England, and the
balance to 10 children
The appraisal showed contested
claims against the estate totaling $780,
100000 and debt item of $7,135, $50
was the amount of settlement of these
contested claims This debt item grew
out of litigation involved in misman-
agement charges against Gould and
three other children, executors of the
estate of their father. jay Gould.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
GUN JAMS, BARS SUICIDE
Virginian Says He Killed Girl fol-
Causing Him Trouble.

PETERSBURG, Va, January Z up.
Harry Bearing. 80. who yesterday shot
and killed Ethel Stockholm, o. with
whom he had been living, told police
he committed the act because "she had
given me lot of trouble"
He said he had intended a second
bullet for himself but was unable to
carry out his suicide plan when the
pistol jammed Police who examined
the weapon found it had damned after
firing the. first shot.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08

Ing appropriations win give the Air
Corps a quality OF equipment that was
! unhoped for a year ago. Many of these
airplAneS will be in use in the late
Spring and the beginning of the next
fiscal year should see most of them
| used by the various tactical squadrons,
with some squadrons completely equip
ped with new models"
Pursuit aviation has been struggling
for progress in the development of its
tactics to keep pace with the recent
stated During the past year. it
Was reported, training in observation
squadrons reached higher standard
than ever before. so far as the training
of the observation crew of pilot and
observer was concerned, due to a well
rounded system of training" Shortage
of flying time, however, handicapped
efforts at unit training, it was shown.
Observation aviation" the report
shows, has comparatively large num-
Der of satisfactory models, and the air
service, or eyes of the Army is in
better shape than the air force tbom-
bardment, pursuit and attack units
In bombardment aviation, training
in group and squadron formations has
continued to develop greater flexibilty.
The I'd Bonbardment Group at Lang
ley Field is experimenting with types
of formations which allow the best
defense against air attack by hostile
pursuit and at the same time have
offensive value and leave no opening
for air attack while the bombers are
deploying for their bornb-dropping runs.
Kept Abreast Of World.
1.-THE performance of Army aircraft
has Rpnt abreast nf fhnSo need nv other
leading powers" the Air Corps reported.
Numerically, however, in personnel and
numbers of tactical airplanes, the air
force component of our Air Crops put
us in fourth place in the air forces of
the world"
The year witnessed not only the ap-
pearance of faster and more efficient
Army planes of all styles, but also inn
provenehts in power plants, ltbricating
oils, aerial navigation, aerial photog-
raphy and gunnery and bombing. A
new laboratory was completed in which
engines can be tested at temperatures
as low as SIS degrees below zero Fahren-
heit and with rarified air such as that
found at attitudes up to 10000 feet.
The year was marked by the taking of
the longest range photography ever
made on earth, from distance of 33l 2
miles. This photograph covered the
largest amount of the earths surface,
1900 square miles, ever encompassed in a
single Photographic exposure. The
highest altitude photograph ever made,
from an altitude Of 39,150 feet, above
Rushville, Ind. also was taken by an
Army flyer. More than $4,000 square
miles of territory were photographed for
mapping purposes for non-military Gov
eminent agencies.
A later report is to cover other ar
tivities of the Air Corps during 1882.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
TREASURY BOOKS OPENED
TO EDITOR BY COURT
Louisiana officials Directed 10 Per.
NIT Inspection of Fund
Records.
BY the Associated Press.

BY the Associated Press.
BATON ROUGE, La, January T.
Alternative writs Of mandamus direct
ing State Treasurer j. s. Cave and his
assistant, A. L. Junod, to permit .Ber-
nard L. Krebs, managing editor OF the
New Orleans Times Picayune, to inspect
certain treasury records which Kfebs
said Cave and Junod refused to allow
him to examine, were signed yesterday
by Judge George K. Favrot In East
Baton Rouge District Court.
petition that he called at Treasurer
Caves Office January to inspect the
State fund book the sundry ledger Of
disbursements and the record OF all
balances carried in various State funds
for the year ending December 81, 1889,
and that permission for examination
was refused.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
Visit RooseVelt's Grave.

OYSTER BAY, N Y, January up.
Postmaster General Walter F. Brown
placed a wreath on the grave Of Theo-
dore Roosevelt yesterday. commemorate
death. Among those who accompanied
him we're Mrs. Roger w. Straus, Albert
Bushnell Hart and William Loeb, former
secretary to the late President.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
BOMB IMPERILS MOSQUE
AND INJURIES TWO MEN
Pedestrian Stumbles Over Explo-
sive Beside Mohammedan Tenn
pie at Delhi, India.

BY the Associated Press.
DELHI, India, January IA terrific
explosion occurred this morning back
of the famous Jumma Musjid, or Great
Mosque, one of the glories of India
when man stumbled over bomb on
the ground.
+ The pedestrian escaped being killed,
but he and another man were in
jured.
Panic ensued and shopkeepers and
customers fed from the zone. Two
other bombs were found near the Mo-
hammedan institution.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
BY SYLYESTRE DORIAN.

Director Of the Paris Fashion seruice.
The writers Of the Paris Fashion Serv-
series Of articles are the following:
Agnes-Drecoll Bruyere, Cheruit Helm.
Lanvin, Louise Boulanger. Hubert; Paule-
sdoe g sE6n e. ATmana Sone4
Rose Valois. Rose Descat, Schiapareli,
Macy Rouf. Marcel Rochas. Lucille
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08

The dress above Of striped marocain in
red, tChite and black, toorn under the
fitted coat OF black kashd at the right,
forms neio Spring ensemble. The
coat is cut Uith loo batedu neckIine
TO shoto the scarf OF the dress.
Straight open sLeeue in a coat of black
Leda cloth, Nth short collUless cape
of broddtaH tied with scarf of
stitched silk, is at extreme right.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
BY CHERUIT.

CONSIDER the wooden coat smart
est of all shown in present Paris
collections. Just as sulnptuous fur
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08
PARIS, December 81.

PARIS, December 81.
~ERTAIN hotels remain the best
A fashion thermometers in Paris
during the winter. and
~ whether at luncheon, tea or
dinner, you are sure to find the
hiCloast standard of sTuartneSS
The Washington times., 1933-12-21
The Human Side of the News
"Wild Talents" They Could Not Hang
Bu EdWin C.. Hill

Not even the observation Of
a Holmes or the acumen of a
DR.. Joseph Bell could supply,
one feels, a key to the mysteries
contained in countless numbers
in Charles Forts extraordinary
book, "Wild Talents" The wild
talents Mr.. Fort alludes to are
what he beliveS to be the latent,
magical powers of the human
mind, powers that have been
neglected or imperfectly con-
trolled.
These wild talents, growing
in the mind like weeds, have
been responsible, he assumes,
for innumerable mysteries Of
accident or crime; for occur
rences which have been utterly
battling to the public and to,
the police. He assumes that
some persons, perhaps far more
than one might think likely,
possess mental powers akin to
witchcraft. In fact, he does
not hesitate to use the dubious
term. He has spent a lifetime
cleaning from the welter Of life
thousands of startling, incred-
ible, inexplicable incidents, for
which he can find no other pos
sible explanation tn a n that
which might lie in the power
of mind over matter.
He tells the strange story of
the 96-pound woman who could
not be moved an inch by the
united efforts Of six strong men;
of the man they could not cru
city; of the dog they could not
lose; of the man they could not
shoot; of the man they could
not drown, and strangeSt OF all,
of the man they could not hang.
-Four Fa1lureS
On the 23rd of February, in
the year 1895, John Lee, a
laborer, who had murdered an
old woman for her money, was
lead from his cell in the peni-
tentiary at Exeter, England, to
be hanged, They draped the
hangman's moose around his
neck and stood him on the
trapdoor Of the scaffold. Scores
of witnesses stood by, strained
and silent in the imminency
of violent death. The sheriff
of Exeter, representing British
law, waved his hand. The bolt
was drawn-but the trapdoor
did not fall. John Lee stood
there, with the moose around
his neck.
It was annoying. emharraSs-
The Washington times., 1933-12-21

Queer-how viciously selfish
we can become in grief; and
what denominations we commit
in the name of love!
But I couldn't see that. We
never can at first. Then, some
times, we don't want to. Grief
becomes such a convenient
hideout. But after a while If
there's any decency in use, we
wake up-crawl out Of it-try
to find some better way to
take it.
And so, I don't go away any
more when my boys birthday
comes around. I have learned
long since that I can't forget.
That time brings no healing.
And. of course, 1 wouldn't want
to forget. I wouldn't want to
be healed.
But the hurt is nobody's
business but my own. I mustn't
let it be anyone else'S business.
Yet how can I keep it away
from other lives?
That's simple enough-if I
once WANT to do it.
I can walk into my office.
I can close the door.
AND WHEN I CLOSE THAT
DOOR, I CAN DELIBERATELY
LEAVE MYSELF OUTSIDE.
I can leave my personal
hopes and worries, my humilia-
tions and tragedies, outside
that door, just as surely as I
can leave my bedroom Slip
pers and bathrobe in my room
at home.
I wouldn't wear those pc
culiarly personal garments in
my living room, meeting my
friends, or when I go shopping
in the market. I wouldn't
dream of wearing them to my
place of work. To do so would
be the height Of bad taste.
I'd seem as outlandish as a
naked Zulu parading Broad
way in a nose ring.
BUT IT'S EQUALLY BAD
TASTE-EQUALLY UNCIVIL-
IzED-~TO PARADE BEFORE
THE WORLD IN THE NAKED
NESS OF PERSONAL GRIEF.
The Washington times., 1933-12-21

strength left to open a window
and at last to precipitate him.
self into the street, where he
sealed himself, rattling."
The supreme example of un-
derstatement, which I feel JUS
titles this rather horrid recital
of courage, is contained in the
final paragraph of the story.
"One surmises," telephones
the particular correspondent
from Toulon, "one Surmises at
the flutter which provoked this
tragedy at Brignoles."
Possibly now I had better get
out the dictionary and make
such changes in style as may
be needed to get the story into
top-top shape. A word here and
there may be altered, but 1 do
hope that I am not wrong
about "flutter."
Copyright. 1898. King Features
Syndicate, Inc.)