The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1933-06-09
KASHMIR VALE
FULL OF CHARM
Srinagar Is a Lovely Place for a
Vacation.


/ L the famous garden spots Of
the world, beckons to the vaca-
tiOnists Of India. Its wooded hillsides
don a new green which Is reflected in
the clear, blue, placid streams of the
valley; and households are put in or
der for busy season.
The Vale of Kashmir lies among the
lower Himalayas, north of the Indian
Punjab. One reaches Srinagar, the
summer capital of the native state
known as the domain of the Maharaja
of Jammu and Kashmir, over long
route by rail and motor. From Bonn
bay one travels northward by train,
via Delhi and Lahore, to Rawalpindi,
one Of the chief army posts of British
India. There the way to beauty opens.
Almost at once on leaving Rawalpin-
di the motor road beings 10 climb. Up
and up through the deodar-clad slopes
of the lower mountain the road twists
and turns, the heated air Of the plains
grows cool and invigorating, until,
when travellers make their first over
night stop at Tret, they feel captivated
by joyous holiday spirit.
Everything seems amusing and in
teresting. Ruffled punkas swing from
the ceiling, though you may have no
need of them. Your def and tur-
baned servants patter barefooted
about the rooms, unrolling your bed
ding on the stringed charpoys, the
fairly comfortable beds of India. Even
the not-too-bad food served by the
bungalow cook is matter for hungry
jest Lovely, lovely world, with
summer of Kashmir ahead.
Native chauffeurs Are Speedy.
The road from Rawalpindi to Srina-
gar is well-built motor road, some
200 miles long, and it lies through the
mountains north of the Pr Panjal
pass. Snowy peaks rise high above
| you. The rushing waters of icy
streams chatter noisily below. Hair
pin turns in the road make you catch
your breath and curl your toes, for the
ways of the native driver are his own
and without fear, and, alas, you have
not the knowledge Of his language
wherewith to express your feelings.
Soon, from the first travelling sahib,
you may learn to say, "Ahista, ahista !"
But you never succeed in making an
Indian chauffeur drive slowly, slowly.
1t is possible to make the trip to
Srinagar in day, but not ahista
Quite the contrary. You spend two
night in dak bungalows (resthouses)
along the way, the second at Baramula,
which lies at the edge of the great de-
preston known as the Vale Of Kash-
mir.
From Baramula one can go the rest
of the way by boat, up the Jhelum
river; but you may prefer to drive.
The last 80 miles lie across a level
stretch, the road bordered on either
side by slender poplars.
The people passed along the way
are quite different from those one sees
in India. Ekkas and tongas, the two
wheeled horse drawn vehicles of the
country, draw aside to let you pass.
The Vale Of Kashmir is level val
ley about so miles long and averaging
about 20 miles in width. 1t lies, a
great oval, surrounded by mountains
green with deodar and spruce on the
| lower reaches and white with snow
until we'll into the early summer. Skies
of an incredible blue complete color
scheme of fairy loneliness. Through
out the valley winds the curving line
of the River Jhelum, along the banks
of which straggle the streets and
bazaars which form the ancient city
of Srinagar.
Quaint Scenes In Srinagar.
Seven curious bridges span the
river, and along the shore quaint old
wooden houses lean sometimes at
rakish angle. Many of the city streets
end in wide stone steps leading down
to the rivers edge. These stairways
are usually animated scenes of native
life Here the laundry men wash the
clothes; here the women come to fill
| their water jars. Children tumble and
play about, and goats and cows RAM
BILE freely among them all. From the
overhanging balconies lengths of dyed
pashmina hang out to dry. All Is
colorful and gay.
Also there Is the interesting river
life A large part Of the population
of Srinagar lives af1oat. Odd, long,
pointed boats, called dungas, with
superstructures hung with mats of
woven reeds, are the only homes which
thousands of Kashmiris ever know.
| Sleeping quarters within, a kitchen of
sorts open to the eyes of all, few
! pots Of brass or copper, and poor
Kashmiri's household Is complete.
The native of more ample means
has better boat. Walls of wood re-
place the woven mass, and as better
and better financial status is indicat-
ed, so the boats improve. The best
are comfortable and well-furnished
house boats, such as one might see
upon the River Thames.
The English have made their con-
tribution in the development Of the
house boat In Srinagar; for the Vale
of Kashmir has become not only IA
vorite vacation land for the English
army In India, but the permanent
home of many retired officers and
their families.
One lives easily In Kashmir. A
host of servants cost about as much
as one good cook In the West, and
| they feed themselves. Each one has
his appointed duties and does them
fairly well.
/ Servants All Are Men.
All your servants in Kashmir are
men. The women seldom work out
Even the little children of Westerners
| frequently have men servants to care
for them. Your list may include a
| nanpi or head hnatman. q khitmat.