Evening star., 1933-01-22
PARIS January IA.

PARlO, Jdlluhiy II.
THE special Riviera collections,
being shown for those fortunate
ladies who can spend the colo
i months in the sunny resorts OF
Southern France, give full ex-
preston to ideas that were scarcely
more than limited at in the earlier
showings of midseason fashions. These
characteristics are all retained but
amplifed. What was blue then is
still bluer now, and what was but
brownish has developed into actual
brown A straight, sedate line pre-
dominates. with no change in silhou-
cite, so that line drawing of this
seasons dress is not dlstlngulshaole
from last seasons; but in detailed
sketch you will perceive new textures,
more studied and unusual Weaves, the
surfaces of dozens of fabrics having an
altogether unaccuStomed and delightful
countenance.
These new materials give to the new
models their chief character. With few
exceptions the waiStline is in its nor
NAL place. The natural shoulder. with
sleeves let into the neckband Of the
material at the back, caught up to the
material in front by a seam running
the whole length OF the arm, is a
striking item. One notices a strong
tendency toward the wide, fiat yoke
that forms the top Of the bodice and
a part of the sleeve. There is sleeve
ful!ness at the elbow.
X X X X
CAPES, especially in daytime dress,
~ remain in great vogue. replacing
sleeves or covering tight sleeves.
New cuts, some with scalloped edges,
others with notched edges, are SHOWN
and I have seen a few with ragged
edges that were efTectice. These may
be excessively plain, or embroidered
along the edge, or piped, or bordered in
a number of original ways.
A few sensational models have been
seen, with only three-quarters OF
capelet, leaving the clear impression OF
a short cape from which a section mad
been cut away; a half-cape erect was
also seen once, and the cape in con-
trasting colors. one side one color and
the other side another, has had
limited run.
One such model produced contrast
of fabric rather than color. and each
half was in different black material
which was interesting because this
studied effect was only perceptible on
close observation. A fashion always
derives much favor from having diff
ferent values seen a few yards away
and nearby. That was the psyche
logical explanation of the vogue o few
seasons back Of the dark coat worn
over the very bright dress. The wearer
approaching with the coat on, O few
yards away, had one aspect, then with
the removal Of the coat an entirely
different one, and this fashion had
what in Paris is called a success fou.
q . - Il
EOR evening there are many drap-
L ings in the Grecian manner;
there is suggestion of the Prin-
cess gown, with draping at the waist
running on to the top Of the bodice
almost without decollete in front, even
when the shoulders are bare. some
followed out as far as the waist. A
dignified simplicity predominates in
this domain of dress. Little trimming
If any, is used. There is a sumptuous
disregard of foreign ornament, the
regal richness Of the cut and fabric
being sufficient in the hands Of the
mastery draper, who holds the folds
in place by Jewel motif. A long
velvet redingote Is the right compile
ment to these evening gowns.
short-nap furs for daytime wear,