Evening star., 1933-04-09

PARIS, April l.
~ UTDOOR fashions, as seen at
the races at Auteuil and in the
Bois, reveal some very inter
~ esting developments. Perhaps
most important is the silhou-
cite. The square-shouldered. sWagger
line introduced by Schiaparell, is be-
coming increasingly important, and is
being adopted not only by the very
young, but by older women as well.
The square-shouldered effect is achieved
in various WayS-by fur trimming just
at the top of the sleeves or by pleating
in the sleeve, or simply by the cut Of
the garment itself Quite as interesting
is the shorter length coat, or straight
or swagger lines Many Of these are
made on yoke at the back and eX-
fibit two or three box pleats, which add
to the "fly-away" air Of these Jaunty
costumes.
Length becomes an interesting fea-
ture of the new coats. Accustomed as
we are after several years TO the dress
length coat, it is decidedly refreshing
to find not only seven-eighths coats,
but hip-length and even shorter jackets
of contrasting fabric and color. OF
course, this mode is perfect for sports,
and it is here that it is at its best
THE Bois at this season of the year
is particularly interesting at 1890
or II in the morning, and is an ideal
sport for noting the last word in sports
wear. I was especially interested in
some of the costumes which noted the
other morning, for they were so char
acteristic Of the newer trends in sports
wear. One very good-looking costume
had a dress of what looked to be yellow
kasha, woven with a black thread,
which was not very noticeable, except
to gray down the yellow. Worn with
this frock was a seVen-e.ghthS SWagger
coat with two tones Of yellow IN its
small checks. The neckline was finished
with a straight, rather severe band
about two inches in height. Accom-
panying this jaunty costume was a
Tyrolean cap, with stiff, outstanding
black quill.
Another very smart costume which
saw the same morning was daring in
its color scheme and design, but was
nevertheless very smart and effective
It was of a red-and-black striped wool
en-. cut diagonally, so that the stripes
formed a definite pattern both on the
short collarless coat and on the skirt
A black fez with small lacQuered rec
feather. and a red silk scarf completed
this dashing costume.
In both these models the genera
silhouette was the same-SqUared-u
shoulders, loose, fiaring coat of the
swagger type. In each the coat wa'
shorter than the skirt, although in on
case it matched, and in the other con
trasted with the skirt material.
x x x
10Th Of these costumes were frankl.
~ sports in their feeling, but l haV
been interested in watching the develop
ment of this same type OF costume II
more formal methods. There seems L
be a definite interest in the seven
eighths and shorter coats of contrast
ing fabric. Many wooden dresses, 10
instance, are accompanied by coats 0
this kind. sometimes in fur, sometime
in wool of contrasting color. At Auteui
where fashions vary from the simples
tailored suit to the elaborate day-tim
dress, have noticed a good many cos
tunes built up on this principle. Fo
instance. I saw one beige woolen dres
worn with short f1aring coat of
fat black caracul The jacket cam
barely to the waistline and was decided