Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1933-01-08

~ERTAIN hotels remain the DeSV
fashion thermometers in Paris
during the winter. and
~ whether at luncheon, tea or
dinner, you are sure to find the
highest standard OF smartness
Most interesting for al-round pur-
poses are the teatime observations, for
at luncheon the dresses are all of one
general type, while in the evening they
are all rather formal; whereas in the
tea hall you will find all kinds OF
dresses and many surprises. Here will
be fashionable PariSians taking an hour
from shopping, or the accustomed pri-
vate tea, to see what other women are
wearing; or a wealthy countess in from
her chateau on the banks Of the Loire
Just for the afternoon; or the suburban
resident from Versailles, St Cloud or
Fontainebleau The lady to your left
may be countess, great singer, q
nouveau-riche Americana, South
American heiress, or just a lucky and
designing cocotte.
This style show is better than any
defile of manneouins in q r1aison de
couture. for here are not clothes that
are being offered and may never be
worn outside the shop where they were
made, but actual dresses on the backs
Of important women, being worn, play
ing their part in the great panorama Of
that magic thing called chic"
The circumstances Is so acute
here that an addressed woman knows
before she gets across the threshold
that she Is out Of place and turns back.
You are as much observed and as
critically when you come through this
dignifled door as Is the leading lady of
q successful play coming onto the stage.
Melba used to sit here for hours and
affirm Its by far the best show in
Paris"
VOU are first struck by the signif-
canoe of sleeves on dresses. Mos;
women keep their coats on through the
tea-llour, but if these are rernoYd you
ar sure to find an unbelievable variety
Of sleeves, nothing else seemingly i'm
portant. Then what a quantity of short
coats are being worn-short coats Of al
shapes in fine fiat furs that match the
turbans. Turban hats invariably match
the coats, or at any rate the Scarfs
or capes or capelets. Caracul, astra.
KHAN, shaved lamb; in short, all the fla
furS are in vogue but black, brown af1c
gray predominant, although l have seer
some striking turban and scarf en-
sembles in ermine and white rabbi;
worn at tea-time
Wooden coats are in no danger oi
losing their favor, and continue to be
most stylish. There are numerous new
RodieT woolens of novel weayes thai
make coats look new. although the fun.
damental line may not be changed.
Black is most often seen as a colo,
for coats, and it is obvious that con
turiers have worked infinitely hard tr
achieve new effects through the use 81
black in fresh ways. The fiat fur col.
lars may be as thin as velvet. ana in.
stead OF going all the way round thu
neck, or around the back of the neck
these are given a new aspect by bein.
placed just on one side, so that a col,
lar becomes, In fact, only a third o.
fourth of collar There are littll
tabs Of fiat fur, making a sort of jabot
fur epaulettes. strikingly effective; mar
row fur bands around the sleeves wher,
they are wide above the elbow, flu
tops TO gloves that turn back into
cuff, fur scarfs, fur cravats. fur hand
bags and muffs. The turban of flu
ts related to one or more Of these &C
cessories. Many very Partisan ensem
bies of matching fur turban and cape
let are worn.