Evening star., 1933-02-26
BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN

Director Of the Paris Fashion Service.
The writers of the Paris, Fashion serv-
ice, who. rotate. as contributors to this
Ssnes-Drecol s 'l'iss Bruyere. re- cheruit, Helm,
Msaoe Ms4a e HHeer
Lyolene. Patou. Molyneux, lie Monnier.
Rose pescat. schiaparell Maggy Rouff.
Vaiois. Mieds. N0'nas' Au'Ae pafA' ana Nose
PARIS, February 18.
OTTON, If not king, is certainly
queen of the Riviera this sea-
son. Efforts of American
~ manufacturers to bring cot
ton back into the fashion pic
ture have at last met with response,
whether conscious or not, and French
designers have yielded definitely to the
charms Of cotton fabrics.
Not only does one see the usual type
of cottonS, as piQues, glnghamS and
organdies, but there is, this year, a
whole galaxy of unusual and clever
weaves Many of these resemble WOOL
ems, IN their rough and pebbled effects.
They have certain weight, and def
mite surface interest. and weavers have
learned to give these new cottons the
same subtle coloring We are used to in
wooiens In fact, the new cottons are
used for suits and ensembles in ways
often hitherto reserved to wool. Sep
arate skirts and jackets, with blouses
of lawn or organdy, are not infrequent.
One smart costume which I saw in
Cannes recently was in beige-nc1-
dentally one of the most popular colorS
of the present season. The fabric was
in q loosely woven cotton resembling
wool, not unlike the cotton tweeds with
which we are already familiar. This
sports costume was made with plain,
straight skirt, about 10 inches, 1 should
say, from the ground. Accompanying
1t was a three-quarter-length cape,
made with scarf collar. Worn with
the costume was a blouse OF striped
coral and white lawn, with a high,
sort of turtle neck" collar. The blouse
incidentally was of the tuck-in variety.
A coral colored beret added the final
note of color to this very smart, yet
unpretentious, costume.
CMART as cottons are for sports cos
tunes Of every type, I would not
have you think that woolens are not
seen. In the changeable climate of
the Riviera, where chill winds often
interrupt a series of brilliant warm,
sunny days, the smart woman finds it
necessary to include at least one or
two chic costumes in the warmer ma
terials. Then, too, there is f1atter-
ing softness in woolen textures, partic-
ularly In the pastel colors, that many
women like. White woolens, for In
stance, are often much more f1attering
than white cottons, which are apt to
have rather cold feeling. I have
0f r.
ing Of long white coats over light
weight woolens, or knitted dresses In
clear blues, reds and yellows.
Knitted suits Of every kind are pop
ular, especially now that all the chic
Parisiennes are knitting. 1t Is quite
the mode to exhibit a vest or sweater
of ones own making and design, and
clever color schemes are the rule. A
combination that is both smart and
practical is new soft gray with clear
yellow. I saw very good looking cos
tune Of this color scheme at the little
fishing village Of st. Tropez, which
has 80 intrigued the smart world. This
costume was very informal In charac-
ter. as befitted the informal character
of the resort and consisted OF plain
skirt and cardigan, worn with high
necked pullover. The suit itself was
knitted In an interesting pattern which
gave an effect Of stripes. The pull
over OF bright yellow was Of fine wool
knitted In a plain pattern.
X **
A MONG the evening costumes which
noted on the Riviera, think the
new checks were perhaps the most out
standing. This is, of course, In line
with the new excitement over cottons
Of every type. Those I saw were OF
very fragile cottons, some of them on
the order Of old d-fashioned voile, others
81 The sta. crisp type Ike organdy.