The Waterbury Democrat., 1932-12-30
By RosETIE HAncRovE WWa Ue49Ire Wrlare

E.EZ-AMu Iu1@mUl1 lu01s LLtof Q brief eclipse. has returned Co the fashion stage probably becnuso of il1 eminenfly practical qualities. In dItncult times euCh as these q long afternoon coat is an almost indispensable number ih the win- ter wardrobe. Combined with q dress of the same color or a shade lighter, it ia a6 smart an outfit as can be wished for, and then a wo- man has the added advantage of being able to wear such of her early fall dresBes og Wll1 combine harmoniously with the coat.
 Lines are closely moIded to the figure in the afternoon coats that smart women are wearing. The required shoulder width Co given by the fur trimming. Most coats are beltless and flare slightly at the hem, and a great number wrap right over and fasten at the side seam. Heim's collection includes a number of these fur = trimmed afternoon coat ensembles which have ben ordered by many Pa- risiennes. The most popular is Q capped coat of beige wool velvet with trucked effect, fanwise. which flares from the waist front and back. This model is trimmed with seal and lined with seal and looks very effective if worn with black of beige dress.
 Black Is Good.
 Black naturally will be the choice of many smart and practical women this winter because of it's wrong if you choose black, and anyway tt has long since lost it's somberfi funereal aspect. The vogue for velvet is perhaps more evident in afternoon styles and a black velet afternoon coat, like one Maggy Rouff shows, for ex- ample, trimmed with shaded gray astrakhan, Is cry smart. especial ly with its new cape effect whtcl, the wearer drapes around her fig- ure.
 Worth has a number of ensem. bles in his collection which are most attractive and really new in conception. His cut-out sleeves, giving a glimpse of the dress uu- 'derneath, have appealed to some of the smartest women. One particu- lar ensemble. composed of a black cloth coat trimmed with a round fox collar and a soft scarf of the same white frappe velvet as the dress is particularly successful The coat buttons high up on the chest and again at the waist. but we'll over to the side, and has the slightest flare to the skirt. The white velvet dress is slim { and straight, with hint of q godget eqect in the front of the skirt. The top of the bodice is slightly full, with this fullness gathered onto a deep point. The sleeves are pouched at the top and finished with long, above-the-elbow cuffs of tiny velvet ribbon worked to imi- tate Richelieu embroidery. A soft black leather belt, striped white, is drawn through a large oval mother of- pearl buckle. 8 Here is an ensemble that win supply number of needs. It can be worn for formal afternoon receptions or for restaurant wear and yet Is not too dressy.
 White Cloth Coat.
 When something still more for mai is required Worth has another offering in the shape of white cloth coat trimmed to the hem and sleeves with a wide band of black fox. It is lined with black. velvet and can be worn with a white or a black dress equally successfully.
 0chiaparelH has number of de- lightfu1 street ensembles among which her No. 413 has been order- ed by a number of well known so- ciety woman. It is combination of grege and hyacinth blue in the dark shade. The grege part comes in the coat, a rough diagonal wool, ~.,Al~tx %a. a frwo ot,1avs ont Qt the waist and worn with wide scarf of shunk fur tied with deep blue Fremito ribbon, completed by a huge motif of the same fur with bands of the ribbon inset. The frock is of deep hyacinth reversible silk, very simple in line. with the scarf and belt used on them at side to form a contrast with the rest of the frock which is very brilliant.
 Coat sleeves are important this year, but don't make the mistake of choosing them too voluminous. A slight pouch effect either below or above the elbow or an incrus- tation of fur somewhere on the up- per Is permissible, but unless done by an expert, too big a sleeve will ruin many silhouette.
 Many of the new coats have mo. bile fur collars, capelets and scarfs. another practical and economical idea. Without the fur. the coat can do duty for shopping or walk. ing. With the fur, 1t instantly ac- Jquires an air of formality, espe- cially if this be fox, broadtail or ermine. The new cape collars are being worn over simple dinner dresses and at the theater.