The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1932-02-16
Bust
Effect to
Be Leader
By ROSETTE HARGROVE
NEA Service Writer

NEA Service Writer
Darts, Feb. 16.-The leading Gre
4 ators of Paris fashions have de-
creed the bias and diagonal line as
he outstanding characteristics of
he 1882 spring collections.
Every season, according to tradi-
ion, there are one or two points
which contribute a great deal to the
5eneral trend OF fashions. This year.
he stellar role is being played
lointly by vaistline and sleeves, two
eatures Of Importance in the femi-
inc mind.
Details are profuse in the new
tyles for the coming year, supplied
y buttons, sleeves, scarfs, and
abric combinations.
Short Bust Effect Leads
This spring will be known for it's
hort bust effects, stressed by all the
eading houses, whether this is
achieved by means of a. wide belt,
bib and tucker or the high corset
cite skirt, according to individual
Inspiration.
Nearly all sleeves are wide, with
his width placed at all possible
points. There are sleeves of the leg
of-mutton, balloon, bell and other
persuasions, trimmed with tucks,
pleated inserts, or rows and rows of
Valenciennes lace. Others are cut
raglan, kimono, cape and some are
all in one with the dress yoke.
Bolero and bolero fronts or backs,
caracas" (Which is the French
name for the tightly-f1tted and
scanned jacket buttoning down the
front and featuring a little basque,
still worn by old peasant women)
and vests have inspired number
of amusing combinations of fabric
and colors.
Waistline Is Draped
Draped effects at the waistline,
at the neckline, novel buttoned lines
of coats, either real or simulated,
bows, cravats, scarfs of vivid hue
destined to brighten up a dark dress
or suit are all to be seen in the new
collections.
Chantal fayors the very short
bolero and dress combination in her
collection, and diagonal effects are
also stressed in her sports clothes.
Skirts are very slightly en- forme or
circular, with slim hip Jokes. She
uses a good many cotton fabrics for
informal wear. The high waistline
prevails.
Mainbocher's silhouette is essen
TALLY slim and a simple effect IS
aimed at throughout. Skirts in
sports clothes are sufficiently full
for perfect ease in walking, and fol-
lowing the principle now ruling in
fashions, cut on the bias. Some
have apron effects in front only.
Many Jackets and separate coats
have epaulette effects, one especial
ly successful black wool coat frock
having these lined with red and
white print on black ground, the
print also fashioning a little mod
esty vest in front.
PatOu Has New Blue
Jean Patou's collection, one of
the outstanding events of the sea-
son, fulfilled all expectations. The
new Patou blue, the particular
shade of midnight and cornflower
blue, which he stresses throughout
his collection, contributes a great
deal IN iroY,orti,,o n ,,oto sc 49,.
ETY. in clothes which will surely help
us all to tide over this era of de-
preston.
The diagonal line is stressed
throughout every category of dress.
and there is a dress to fit every
type of woman.
Patou offers a number of at
tractive ensembles composed of
a gaily printed fabric worn with a
long, dark wool or dull surfaced silk
coat. Even the collars on these
coats adopt a diagonal line, some
being almost fan-Shaped on one
shoulder and dwindling to a mere
frill on the other.
The coat fronts have also been
subjected to the diagonal line and
the part that wraps over is usually
shorter.
The new hats shown by Patou are
to say the least original of line.
Many of them leave almost the en-
tire left side of the head uncov-
cred, but worn by the right type of
woman, they will be very smart.
There are number of picture
hats and sailors, all with some
studied detail of trimming partic-
ular to Patou.