Evening star., 1932-09-11

HARIS, September 3.-Not all the
smart women of Paris are able
to patronize the salons Of the
Il great couturiers, and you would
be surprised to know exactly
what proportion of the impressively
chic ladies, seen at any given social
gathering in the French capital and
outlying fashionable resorts, were
clothed by their own private little
dressmakers, themselves unaided, or
the couturier departments of the large
stores. All of the last mentioned have
special sections in which models are
made to order exactly as in the estab-
lishments of the best known couturiers,
for a fraction Of the price you would
pay in the more stylishly situated
houses
Everybody knows that if you pay
10000 francs Tor a fur coat in the Rue
de la Paix or the Avenue deS Champs
Elysees, at least 5000 are for the ad-
scale of everything else you purchase
in Paris. These couturier departments
are maintained by recruits from the
great maison de couture, and you will
learn If you inquire into their past ex-
perience, that among the young ladies
serving you as saleSgirl, filter, cutter,
etc. are former employees OF Patou,
Molyneux, Callot, dAhetze and the rest.
1t would be useless for girl to apply
for work in one of these couturier de-
partments unless she had previously
been a member of one of those staffs,
for these department stores strive to
maintain the highest prestige for this
special section of haute couture, and 1t
is always managed in manner to re-
semble one of the more exclusive estab-
nshments as much as possible.
4
THERE Is the same special reception
l. and ceremoniouS taking of names,
the long -drawn-out and numerous fit
tings by engagement, the same presen-
tation of new collection four times a
year, and the same peacocking Of man
neuuins all over the place, showing all
angles Of the latest creations. Mean
while clients look on from chairs that
are placed all around the wall Of the
salon. looking through their lorgnettes
at this reviewer defle-as it IS called
in French dressmaking circles.
Programs are distributed, giving you
the names Of the models, and these
programs, which are usually the fun
niest part of such show, are much
less fantastic in the department stores
than at the exclusive houses. This
difference, and the very considerable
difference In price, are the chief dis
tinguishing marks between the two
classes of dressmaking establishments.
1t Is possible to purchase a navy blue
woolen dress for 300 francs in one of
the department stores, specially made
to measure, that in one Of the more
fashionably located naisons would cost
from $500 francs up.
Recently was able in the same day
to attend both Rue de la Paix open
ing and one Of the department store
versions of the same affair. Some of
the names of models in the formers
program, translated into English, were:
Hold Me to Thy Heart, evening dress
In black lace.
Tonight or Never, evening gown in
coral mousseline.
Farewell to Virtue, evening gown in
pink lace.
Innocence and Roses, afternoon
dress in white ronlain, with red scarf
in same
midnight Under the Stars With
Thee, black organdie evening gown.
Dream of a Comet trailing yellow
panne velvet evening gown.
with Thee In the Bois de Boulogne.
sports dress In navy and white crepe
de chine
"Just We Two, morning dress in white
wool crepe.
"Call Ne Sweet Names. afternoon
dress in blue and white dot marocain.
Say Thou Lowest Me Again, after
noon dress in red and white dotted
crepe de chine"
! A ROMANTIC halo hangs over all the
ceremoniousness Of the great cou-
turier houses, 50 that even II you do
not see dress which pleases you, you
VIII leave feeling you had grand time.
There is flourish Of trumpets silent
going to and fro, apparently on pro-
found secret state missions, Of velvet
iveried portiers, chasseurs and other at
tendants; gloved hands dropping crested
cards into silver salvers; roses and Or
chids in profusion in tall vases in all
the corners, and costly rugs as plenti-
fully spread about as though 1t were an
Oriental rug shop. The lights are en-
trancingly subdued except while the
model Is passing and general theatri-
cal impression Is achieved and main
tained throughout the performance.
. You cannot possibly fail to enjoy to the
you don't know what the dresses are
"all about" and don't buy anything. you
will certainly get your moneys worth.
The dresses may not amuse you, but
their names will. and you will treasure
khe program as one Of the funniest doc
Z uments you ever encountered. These
trappings are somewhat more modest
in the less original and less imaginative
couturier departments of the stores, and
the mere difference between the names
of models at the department store will
indicate how vastly the gowns them
selves differ, one being designed for the
rich woman who can afford many and
therefore indulge limitleSs individual
ity whereas the other Is for the woman
of modest means who must adhere to
conservatism In the few dresses her
pocketbook can afford. The program
given men at the second mentioned
opening contained such names as these:
"Yours Truly, blue wooden dress for
day wear
"Step On It, sports dress in mixed
gray wooden with red belt.
"At Five Sharp, cocktail dress In
navy woolen.
fifth Row Center Aisle, evening
dress in black lace.
Dinner Is Served, dinner dress in
coral mouSseline
"I Play Bridge, informal afternoon
S,ress in white marocain.
Amusing Show. informal dinner
aeess in white and blue printed chiffon" J"
Many Of the smart ladies who go to
the ultra fashionable houses for these
openings invite their husbands or other
gentlemen friends to accompany them,
and IL is to be noted that the names Of
the models are always calculated to
make a romantic appeal to the men.
Copyright, 1922