Evening star., 1932-12-28

that New York could not. in any of its
restaurants. provide rs good food as is
found in Boston at two or three OLD
restaurants. / know those Boston eat
Ing places well. They are excellent, but
could lead the writer Of the letter to
half a dozen in New York which serve
the same type of food. fully as we'll.
1t is, of course, true that there are
many restaurants where food is not
cooked well. There are also many
houses where the food is not cooked
as well as it might be. In general, how
ever, in the homes of my friends. find
food well chosen and well cooked-and
I do not choose my friends as I do my
restaurants-with this thought upper
most in ny mind.
At tie moment. there are probably
fewer hotels and expensive restaurants
where cooking is equal to what it was
20 years ago There are, however. 1
think, more good eating places Of the
tea-room type, and I think that the
home cooking is better than it used to
be. There Is less heavy food served,
but greater variety of vegetables and
fruits. There are certain savory touches
given to home meals which were un-
known generations ago. The hors
d'oeuvre. for instance, was practically
unknown in connection with the home
meal Olives and celery were luxuries
to be used for company meals, although
good pickles and spiced fruits have al
ways been the accompaniment to home
meals Soups, while still not on a par
with the French creation at-its best,
are certainly better and more varied.
Green turtle soup, which was a luxury
known only on the tables of the very
rich, is now obtainable in canned form
Of such quality that 1t has been known
to defy the epicure to tell whether it
was freshly made or not. Salaes are
varied, and are served with more suit
ability Of combination and dressings.
Meats in general are much better
cooked than was common. Desserts are
much more varied, although we are still
justly devoted to our fayorite American
pie.
To 60 back to the question of hors
d'oeuvre, am going to suggest. at the
request of a reader, some of the many
interesting appetizers which may be
served before dinner in the living room
with the proper accompaniments, Which
may be clam juice, tomato juice or
plain orange juice. am also golng to
have something to say about the hrst
courseLcanapes-of the more elaborate
type. which are served at the dinner
table as first course.
All of you are familiar with the
simple type of canapes which are made
Of bread or toast, cut into rounds. nm
gers or fancy shapes, and spread with
a savory butter favored with anchovy
paste, mustard, catsup, chilli sauce,
cheese or deviled ham, AMI which are
attractively garnished with the strip
of green pepper, pinento, ha-d-cocked
egg or stuffed olives. It is interesting
however. to serve as well, or instead,
such appetizers as olives wrapped in
bacon and broi,ed, thin slices of dried
beef or ham filled with cheese, tidbits
of lobster or crab nodded with aspic in
tiny molds and impaled like the olives
on toothpicks. Another appetizer Of
this type is made by wrapping split
anchovy fillets around small sour Gu
cumber pickles. Another suggestion is
a sectional dish filled with strips of raw
carrots, with small floWerets CT raw
cauliflower, with celery stuffed with
mixture Of minced lobster or crabmeat
with butter. and with thin strips OF dill
pickles The variety may be increased
by adding green and ripe olives. OF
course, thin crackers or Melba toast
must be served with this.
a very good hot hors d'oeuvre to
serve at the table is made from chicken
liver spread on French toas5. A mixed
hot appetizer is made by cooking minced
anchovy fillets, tomato, tuna fish, green
pepper and celery and hard-cooked
eggs In butter until heated thoroughly
This mixture is patted on French toast
and garnished with Russian dressing.
Copyright, 1922