The Waterbury Democrat., 1932-10-26
BY RosErTF HARGRovE

Bx HO8EEIE hAaHhOW6
 Paris.-Years ago wool vas synonymous with obscuxity ana poverty. Women never aspired to woolen dresses They dreamed ox velvets, satins, taffetas, and all the other silks for their special dresses, and wool was set aside for all the ,,tilitarian and therefore unaesthe- tic clothes. It was usually harsh 10 the touch and heavy, and ungainly.
 Then wool jersey was invented and since that time wool weavers have vied with silk manufacturers for women's preference, with the result that now the elegante's wardrobe will include as many, 1T not more. wool dresses than those fashioned of silk.
 It is easy to-day to achieve a cer- tain shining smartness with siiks lbut the charm of the perfect wool dress Is hard to beat. The fact that wool fabrics are now as costly as silks is another incentive for the discriminating dresses to select the | former in preference to the lat ter. So that from being one of the | least important mediums of the haute couture, wool now couples as high a place as silk.
 Many New Fabrics The 1882 woolens prove once again that the French master weavers are first in the field with new ideas. Dodier' novelties will be worn by smart women the world over this fall and winter. His Dja- lap promises to become as well known and as popular as his kasha. This is a soft basket-weave wool mixed with angora which gives 1t the slightest silvery sheen. There is heavy quality for coats and a much lighter one for dresses, and in both there is an amazing num- Der of fantasies-checks,d diagonals, plain or with faint white or light CT stripes, huge pastilles, and checker-board squares.
 | Other new Dodier fabrics which will soon become household words among women are the Djersa Cot lap, Dubli-Djersa (showing bouc- lette weave on one side and plain surface on the other), Djersagor Parklex (with a parquet weave eff fect), Nervella, Cotlap, Frizlic, lStrybursic, Cordubure and Twist. All these materials have the new embossed surface, some with large woven ridges like pin-tucks wide- ly spaced or close together, some diagonal and others horizontal. These are used for both suits and coats.
 Waffle weaves in a number of Intricate patterns are also present lin this important collection, as well as fabrics that look for all the world like Turkish toweling, and ooroo with rhanil1e effects
 Rodier's voile de laine, as gos- samer and as intangible as any chiffon, is being largely featured by Lanvin for evening gowns over which she places some of her beau- tiful paillette boleros and coatees with great success.
 Among the Meyer novelties are Cyngalia Double for coats and Cyngalia Single for simple infor- mai dresses. He also is respon- sible for a plain-surfaced thick wool fabric irregularly strewn with white rabbit hair which is very smart for winter coats. Lesur has . number of attractive tricot- weave novelties, among them the Ercott, which has been largely used by the leading couturiers for simple morning dresses. He is also Irresponsible for Mossonda, fabric with a slightly plushy surface and forming relatively thick trans versal stripe, and Garbo, a diagonal with a slightly boucle surface. Color as well as fabric combina- tions are important this fall so far as the woolens are concerned. Many of the new dress and coat and skirt ensembles feature pAt- termed wool for dress or skirt and la jacket of the same plain fabric for example, diagonal-striped fabric in green and white with a dark or green.
 ColOrs Are Darker
 The smartest shades are inciin- ed to be somber and practical. A lgood many greens are to be seen already, but nearly all are the cy- press or fir green. The browns are duller than last winter, and also lpresent are all the dark wine reds, quite a lot of grey and especially a good deal of grey-black, due to the introduction of angora hairs on a black surface, also a number tof beiges and greges for sports wear.
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