Evening star., 1932-07-17
PARIS, July 9.
THE working relations between
couturierS and mOdiSteS are be-

COuUuTleTS anu UlUulSleS are Ut-
coming constantly closer, and
i there is even an indication that
before long the best dressmak-
ers will be collaborating with the best
-hatmakers in order that hats and
dresses, conceived and executed together
with view to complementing each
other more effectively. may form an
ensemble and be purchased at the same
time.
Nine. Lyolene, the young Paris cou-
turier: is showing hats especially de-
her models this season, and she is
strong in the belief that the ensemble
should be taken into account in every
exposition of a couture collection.
This is the day of specialists" says
Nine Lyolene, "and I believe dress
makers should not make hats any more
than modistes should make dresses.
Once I did design little beret-just
an amusing little thing devised out OF
strips of material-to go with one OF my
models. Everybody wanted it, because
it was exactly the thing for the dress.
The advantages Of having hats really
made to accompany the models shown
are obvious from all points of view.
First Of all. the ideal dress presentation
must take into account the association
Of the proper accessories with each
model The model is incomplete with
out them. I should like to reach the
point where every costume I design
would be offered to the public with the
proper gloves, bag and shoes as well.
For all suits, coats and daytime dresses
the person viewing the collection does
not get a correct impression of their
effectiveness if hats, those other essen
tials of outdoor costume. are not pre-
sented with them
"THERE is another point too, which
IS all-important in this connec-
ton. No matter how brilliant modiste
may be making the hats of any private
custumer, she is likely to consult the
couturier as to the propfl bat to COM
bine with any model Gne g buying.
Women are constantly asking my ad-
vice on this point, AID find it pleases
them very much TO ind that the prob
lem has already been studied and solved
so that the hat may be bought at the
same time as the dress. suit or coat that
they have selected. From the point OF
view of the buyer for stores and shops,
this same advance solution OF the prob
lem offers the possibility OF a very
profitable cooperation between different
departments.
"Dressmakers, in the first place,
should not go out of their own field in
designing these all-important accom-
paniments to costume, and, secondly,
the really successful way to achieve the
ensemble is by the thoughtful consider
alton of the problems involved in each
case by the couturier and modiste work
ing in conjunction to one end
IN the present Lyolene collection there
is an ensemble called "St. Moritz,
on which Nine. Agnes and Nine Lyo-
lene collaborated to find the ideal type
of wear for Summer in the mountains,
since this year there is strong lndl-
cation that the Switzerland resort Is
attracting many in search Of sun and
air and sport during the warmer season.
They chose white corduroy as the ma
terial, warm enough for cooling breezes.
but with no sleeves in the jacket and
brief puffed ones in the little jersey
blouse underneath, while long crocheted
gloves cover the arms on occasion.
The hat is bright purplish-blue jer-
sey, snugly fitting the head and trimmed
with a multi-colored pompon. Alto
gether, the ensemble is inspired in form
and detail by the native costume of the
Swiss.
Another Lyolene model, which con-
SlSCS OF a rONldnIlC IGIlleQ OTeSS III
dotted swiss printed in amusing red
spot design, accompanied by little
wrap of red velvet, is shown, with a
large Agnes capeline in natural Leghorn,
the picturesque dipping front of the
brim decorated by a big red rose.
Travel coats are presented, with small
sports hats in simpler materials. A
yachting costume in blue and white.
with naval gold belt, has a white-visored
linen cap from Agnes-and so on. The
effectiveness of the combinations has
caused much comment and emphasized
the tendency toward collaboration be-
tween milliners and GreSSmakers. who in
a few seasons may all be working to-
gether to produce the ideal harmonious
ensemble Of perfectly mated hat and
dress, which is the dream of every
dress conscious woman.
lCnnurirht 1879