Evening star., 1932-10-09

EW houses are always at their
- best and fashion writer's are ac-
customed to seeing designers
Il fluctuate, creating marvellous
collection one season, then Drop
ping far below these standards next
time, and continuing this rise and fall
for as long as they remain in business.
Vionnet, can maintain year after year
their lofty average and keep their
openings a delight for all, crammed
with original ideas, new lines, fresh
colors and color combinations, and
Wearable novelties
This season some Of the houses that
usually present the most delightful col
lections have offered next to nothing at
all in the way of originality, but to
offset this, several others that for some
time had not attracted attention have
come forward with surprisingly flne
models, and one of these Is Simone
Gray.
A wide range of colors strikes you
at once in this collection of very stud
led models. made for the most part
with the idea Of one dress Serving
several purposes. dozen greens are
used. Eucalyptus Is favored. Brown
and beige are one combination, grey
and red are another. while chestnut
brown and red are still another that is
seen frequently as the models pass
through the salons. Black for day.
time, white and red, both separately
and in combination for the evening
have been sponsored by this house,
and plum trimmed in tango furnishes
cot blend well In a few models ad-
mirable for their wealth Of character
and fine Details, simple but effective.
4 LII types of woolens are seen here.
etamine de laine. fancy worked
and striped woolens, wool crepes and
Mates. Goats are in cotton velvet,
lined with matte de laine. Solid color
crepe de chine is sometimes trimmed
in bands Of velours Anglais and there
are evening coats in jersey Mlanaise
and velours AnglaiS.
Coats are almost straight the neck
lines often low enough to suggest coats
from which the collars had been re-
moved. The idea is for the collar of
the dress to be left out and made to
form the collar Of the coat. an attrac-
tive idea that has been pleasingly de-
veloped in this collection that shows a
number Of such ensembles of dress and
coat. Some coats are full length. but
many three-quarter lengths also are
seen.
In the afternoon and evening gowns,
as well as corsages. the vest or scarf Is
trimmed in buttonholes that fasten
cnto the belt that is sufficiently wide
to carry several rows of buttons, and by
attaching these at the desired height,
the waistline may be lifted or dropped
at will If the buttonholes are fastened
to the top row Of buttons, the waistline
will be raised, the middle row will give
a medium effect, while the bottom row
will definitely drop the waistline. This
novelty trick allows you to give one
dress several countenances and change
it enough to make 1t serve the purpose
CT ct least two. You will be amazed,
after trying on one Of these models. to
to do with frock, for II you change
from one row of buttcnholes to another
the entire dress takes on a different
appearance.
GONE dresses are rigidly straight,
~ without fullness of any kind, while
others are worked in decoupes tcut-out
work. that form p!eats. Corsages. as
rule, are very elaborate, while skirts
are plain. Sleeves are often ornate
and invariably show marks of special
attention. Waistcoats and waist fronts
are plain or gathered For evening. the
haf-princess line Is featured, with all
the fullness brought to the front
Interesting details are galalith but
tons. often of the same shade as the
dress and used two together, large
one below and small one above, iden-
tical except for the difference in size.
Many strass buttons are seen, too
Trimming is furnished by using the
wrong side of the fabric of which the
dress is made, and this produces many
surprises. as the wrong sides of some
materials reveal greater beauties than
the right sides. Velvet trimming en-
woolen dresses is popular Revers are |
amusingly cut to form the point of a |
vest and even the belt.
(Copyright, 1927