Evening star., 1932-06-05
JEFFERSON'S GARB
GAYEST IN GALLERY
What Secretaries of State
Wore Up to Time of Kellogg
Is Reviewed.
BY the Associated Press.

BY the Associated Press.
What American men wore from
Thomas Jefferson's time down to that
of Frank B. Kellogg is shown in por-
traits of Secretaries of State which
line the corridors of the State Depart
ment.
In spite of Jeffersons reputation for
simplicity. he is easily the gayest blade
in the gallery Of notables His por-
trait is copy of a painting by Wilson
Peale. The artist, perhaps rather than
the subject, was responsible for the
color scheme.
A Rose Colored Muffler.
Jefferson is shown with a simple
white stock or band of silk about his
neck. He is wearing an overcoat with
a broad mink collar, the type gen.
orally associated now with grand opera
tenors, and rose-colored muffler.
The starched collar and shirt and
plain black bow tie do not show up in
the gallery until John Quincy Adams
portrait There is nothing frivolous
about John Quincy Adams appearance.
His collar is Wide-open in front, clear
ly very comfortable. and not very high.
His black bow tie is closely tied with
out flowing ends. but much wider than
men now wear with dinner coats.
Jonh Marshall James Madison and
Robert Smith all have white stocks with
more or less decorative white bows and
pleated and ruffled cuffs are displayed.
These Secretaries all preceded Adams.
But many of his successors clCng to
fancy white ties. although the starched
collar apparently displaced the stock
after Adams time. He was Secretary
of State under Monroe from 1917 to
1925.
Upshur Wore Fancy Shirt.
Martin Van Buren. who served under
Jackson, from 1929 to 1881. was paint
ed in plain black bow tie. but Adel
P. Upshur, who was Tylers Secretary
of State. reverted to the flowing white
tie over a soft, fancy white shirt. John
M Clayton, who served in the Taylor
and Fillmore administrations. from l849
to 1850. introduced a small white tie
almost identical with the ties men now
wear with evening dress.
Lewis CasS. Buchanan's Secretary of
State. was painted in a black robe.
similar to the robes worn by the mem
bers of the United States Supreme
Court. His tie was black bow.
William H. Seward, Lincoln'S Secre-
tary Of State, also wore a small black
bow and his open-front collar is lower
than those worn by many OF his pre-
deceSSorS.
Fish introduced the Ascot.
Hamilton Fish, Grants Secretary Of
State. introduces the puff tie or ascot
into the gallery, and in this tie, which
completely covers his shirt front, he
wears large tie pin.
James G Blaine, Secretary of State
under Garfield. Arthur and Harrison,
1881 to 1892, displays black four-in-
hand, which has the appearance of
being ready-tied.
Thomas F. Bayard, who served un-
der Cleveland. wears a black bow tie
with lay down collar. the most COM
Portable collar up to his time. He Is
painted standing. wearing black over
coat. Although he served from 1885 to
1889, his appearance is strictly that OF
the modern business man. Even his DOW
tie is of the type worn today.
Richard Olney, John Sherman and
William R. Day are all very conven-
tional in black bow ties. John Hay
breaks the monotony with black four
in-hand pinned with white pearl.
Elihu Root wears black puff tie
with a pearl tie-pin and a fawn waist
coat, doubtless an artist suggestion, as
virtually all the men in the gallery wear
black coats and waistcoats.
William Jennings Bryan was paint
ed wearing a black bow tie, throw
back to the time Of William r. Day,
and the extremely loose low collar
which professional speakers and sing
ers prefer.
of State from 1915 to 1920, wears the
first of the modern type of high collar
with double fold, and four in-hand tie
with an opal stick-pin. Brainbridge
Colby, Charles Evans Hughes and Frank
B. Kellogg are ultra modern in four
in-hands with tie pins.