Evening star., 1932-09-24

Unfortunate, one may believe, are
all the young people who grow up with
no smell of grape jelly in their nos
trils and memories.
Putting up" of jellies and peach
buffers and the like was at one time
a part of the American scene.
Those tempting fragrances which we
have Jumped off as Smells" since
these may be good as well as bad. have
had no successors in the life OF the
people.
In modern homes, where jelly max
ing is a thing OF the past, the young
sometimes pleasantly pungent, smells
which can wreathe about a kitchen.
Entire neighborhoods, indeed, were
filled with the divine aroma Of ketchup
in the making, Of mixed pickles, u
sometimes called chow-chow.
Late bees, scenting the delicacies
from abroad, winged their way to
kitchen doors. there to beat in vain
against screening. in an effort to probe
to the heart of the sweet mystery.
Home making of these astronomical
delights still exists, Of course. Some
times one may catch Whit OF grape
jelly, perhaps the most far-reaching
scent of all, in passing along a resi-
utlIUldl SIIcct.
Even the odor of gasoline, the pre-
vailing modern smell cannot blot out
the fragrance of sugar and grapes,
properly mixed and rightly cooked.
These things, summed up at last In
neat jars with wax or paper across
the top, come to be stored away in
rows on long shelves covered with
down-hanging paper with rounded
edge.
It must not be thought that the
feminine members Of old-time families
had any monopoly of the appreciation
of such good things, either In the max
ing or the eating
While it was true that the processes
of manufacture were entirely in the
hands of the "Womenfolk," the male
members OF the household perhaps had
the final "say" as to what should and
what should not be made.
The liking of some member OF the
household for mixed pickle, for instance,
would motivate several intensive days
of putting up" jars Of 1t in various
combinations, some finely chopped
some in the round.
"Menfolk' might be finicky in their
tastes, so that it would be desirable to
fool them as to the ingredients OF q
particular pickle.
Here was one who declared that under
no circumstances would he eat, or ever,
sit at table, with pickles containing
onion in whole or in part.
1t was necessary. therefore. for the
mixed pickle makers to put one over
on the obdurate gentlemen. to use q
phrase not in use at that time.
Onions were chopped very finely and
inserted surreptitiously, so that by the
hour the cooking was over there was
practically no onion odor left, what with
spices and vinegar and the rest.
The great test came when the dish
was passed around at some dinner time
How do you like it?" was the in
quiry.
"Fine!' said he who could not stand
onion in any form.
Occasionally he might become sus-
picious, and, pointing to flake OF in
gredient. remark, What's that-onion?'
That's just some Of the pickle" came
the soothing response.
Stray whifts of cooking are always en-
ticing to men. What is more delightful
than to pass along a hall in some office
building, and suddenly have waited to
ones nostrils the odors of a good beef
steak dinner?
One may not be in the least hungry,
but the Savory fragranCe-and 1t fully
answers that descriptive-compels at
tention. One might eat again, with
very little urging.
The mere spectator at kitchen sports
may be forgiven for not being able to
decide a very difficult question
whether grape jelly. in the cooking, is
more pleasantly odiferous than peach
butter