The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1932-06-04
BY ALICE HUGHES
Times stan Writer

graz ONEH IAb4Ats
But while the train rolls evenly
and while a samovar bubbles
cheerfully between cars for the
tea-thirsty, I soon find cause for
discontinue.
Four 0f us, all strangers, with
me the only woman, are ticketed
in one compartment. The two
benches are converted into double
decked berths. They are not cur
tanned.
I can change to sleeping gar
ments under covers or remain
dressed. I remain dressed.
There is no jolting or swerving
of the train to break my slumbers
and I awake refreshed.
This is the best train ride you
ever had, NIGHT wahr?" the porter
who pours my tea asks in German.
"Jawohl," I answer, "but how
did you know?"
ZACH, Fraulein, don't you know
the history Of this train? One Of
the former cars of Russia, who
was more than a little crazy, COM
manded his engineers to build
railroad from Moscow to Petro-
grad-now Leningrad.
"'Und how do you wish this rail-
road built?' the engineers asked
the car.
Like this'-und the car drew
-,
Moscow to Leningrad. You know,
Fraulein, car had to be obeyed
then. So the engineers, at great
expense and trouble, built the road
you have just ridden over, with
out a single turn or bend"
IT runs to a beautiful, austere
i city comparable with our
Washington. 1t grew, not hap
hazardly, but was designed to be
the capital of a great empire.
It's residents are proud Of their
universities and scientific institu-
lions. Leningraders have a GER
tain cultivated accent in their
speech which marks them from all
other Russians.
A polite city. Every one says
pazalista. Russian for If you
please, at every turn. But it is
cold and raw here. I comment on
this to the intourist guide, who
meets my train.
"Leningrad is lower than sea
level" she explains. 1T is sur
rounded by bodies Of water that
keep the climate damp. Tuber-
culosis affects many Of the in
habitants."
Leningrad, too, is crowded, but
its broad streets absorb the multi
tudes better than Moscow. 1t is
more tranquil, less seething than
the newer Red capital, where a
dozen faces from as many points
of the globe drift by in five min
utes. Leningraders are more
largely native.
There is less gaiety here. People
seem more restrained, but perhaps
they are merely more hungry.
But theirs is a fierce pride in
their city. Even the intourist
guide, whose work compels her to
conduct tourists to the places Of
interest, stands speeches. for a
moment before the majestic
bronze of Peter the Great over
looking the Neva river.
I visit a ballet school, where
youngsters are taught to point
their toes and pirouette by the
best masters of the art. I see
many children on the street with
out shoes, but every child in the
ballet school has hardtoed ballet
slippers and a dance costume.
A TRIO of swarthy, ragged
IA boys jumps at me with
hands outstretched. They whine
and beg: Give me some little
pennies, little Auntie."
Not children of the revolu-
tion?" I ask.
mo, Gypsies."
Another one fiounced out at me,
this time a little girl not more
than 10 or II. One arm reaches
for coins. The other arm holds
a puny, understood child, not a
year old. Even this baby's hand
/ is extended.
But for the most part the Soviet
government looks after its chill
/ dren. At one of he Leningrad
nurseries-creche, it is called-1l0
babies, aged months to years,
are cared for daily while their
mothers work in factories.
Mornings on their way to work
they deposit the children: eve
nings they take them home to
sleep. These babies eat, sleep,
play and thrive under the expert
care.
Twenty-four boys in one room,
Is to "a months old, place their
right hands to their shaved young
heads as the nurse conducts me
into their playroom.
Young Pioneers" they recited.
I'VE are ready"
l am invited to lunch in the
kitchen, where food for these 10
youngsters is prepared. Rich
milk, cereal. chicken broth and
stewed fruit constitute the best
meal, by far, that I am to have
in Russia.
On one side of Leningrad lies a
lovely lake. where formerly the
wealthy had summer villas. These
now are rest houses for rundown
factory workers.
Hollow-eyed and shabby. they
/ shuttle over floors beautifully in
laid with mosaic. The wall-size
paintings and rich furnishings
throw the new incumbents into
grotesque contrast.
ID ESTING factory workers are
N taught sanitation and habits
Of cleanliness. They are expected
to spread these teachings when
they leave. BY small degrees
Russia is sprucing up.
A Communist in Leningrad per-
nits me to ask her a number of