The Waterbury Democrat., 1932-10-27

veal Ingenuity But Lack Ostentaton Of Former Years

bodices and sleeves. Redfern sponsors an even broader shoulder line than before, enhanced by sleeves deriving their inspiration from sixteenth century modes. Fur collars on coats extend spiral-wise down the sleeves as far as the el- bow.
 Dresses for afternoon wear show clever yoke effects at the front or back and slashed sleeves in vivid colors and contrasting materials such as coral and black, light and dark blue green and black. Matching ensembles, that is, dresses of the same shade as the coat, are back again with coral and brown leading for informal wear. Velvet seems to be a close com petitor of the newswoolens for for mal afternoon coats and plush vel vets are obviously going to occupy quite an important place in this falls fashion scheme.
 Short, jaunty bolero jackets or capes accompany the new wool street dresses, which are devoid of trimming or feature Directoire rev. CTS, jabots or bib collars of self material. Lingerie trimmings seem to have suffered total eclipse. Muffs of the, pillow, mushroom and other varieties and on a much larger scale than last winters &C., com pany many of the jackets and capes.
 Lace Vies With Velvet
 Redfern's evening dresses con- tinue to favor the form fitted hip line, but they evidence much less fitness than we had grown accus- toned to. Lace vies with velvet in popularity and several of the for mer showed velvet trimmings in the form of forsaded belts and bows.
 A brown lace model was worn over pink satin slip and was com- pleted by a tango colored velvet belt and a tangerine lace had a twin torsaded effect at the waist in beige velvet.
 Aubergine, amethyst, violet and black and white are the colors fea- tured by the house for both day and evening wear.
 Vera Borea's collection offers a great many novel features, espe- cially in her color combinations. Her Potter's Clay, a dull brown beige and Scarabee, deep blue green are sure to be popular as they are becoming to most color ing. Grey used in conjunction with vivid red, green, blue and brown, scarab and red and somewhat dar- ing. Grey used in conjunction with vivid red, green, blue and brown, scarab and red and a some- what daring but very successful com bination of green and brick are outstanding points.
 PIeats on the Increase
 There are less bias effects in this young designers collection than last season and more pleats, skirts being generally flat in the back with pleats or other forms of full ness massed at the front for sports and street clothes.
 Suit jackets are hip length and fitted, no longer double breasted but instead featuring important No buttons but number of anus ing fastenings among which are a miniature saddle girth and long, flat safety pin brooches.
 Blouses are of the tuck-in vari- ety with unstitched inverted pleats at the back and sometimes in the front also, or worn over the skirt and showing below the bolero jacket. Those of the vest persua- sion have elognated points back and front which strike very new note.
 Borelastex Is new material with an elastic stretch which Borea has reserved for her exclusive use and which she shows in the guise of intriguing little sweater jackets buttoning closely to the throat, and, of course. in the gayest color- ings compatible with the season.
 Simpler Sleeves Favored
 Detached panel effects, cross belt arrangements, simple sleeves. encrusted knots and ribbon trim mings are afternoon features and the waistline in these clothes is lower, although few belts are seen. Skirt lengths are perhaps longer here than last season, with eve ming dresses all floor lengths and formal afternoon models reaching almos to the ankle.
 Sleeves in this house are inclined to be simpler and short sleeves still prevail in spite of the season for sports and some afternoon models. There are several end-of- the-day dresses that are interest ing and evidence special study on the part of the creator. Nearly all have little capes or casques that reveal a semi-decollete neckline to the dress which make them emil nently suitable for informal dinner or bridge parties.
 Velvet shares favor in Vera Borea's collection with some in- teresting new woolens in the new cotele or corrugated effects. Among the new fabrics of the vel vet variety are the cotele, cobra, jersey and veloutine. Tweeds are striped and there are less diagonal effects. Leather fashions many trimmings in the shape of collars and revers.