The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1931-07-31

outgoing caravans carry, in addition
to wool and dried fruits, evil-smelling
asafetida for the drug trade, indiffer-
ent tobacco, madden for the outside
worlds paint tubes and dye watts, silk,
and cleverly carved prayer beads for
devout Moslems from Java to Mo
rocco.
The dwelling houses of Kandahar
are built of sun-dried brick with fat
roofs. Most of them are small and Of
one story. But the houses of the
wealthy merchants have upper floors
and are inclosed by high walls. A few
have spacious courts and elaborate
fountains and gardens.
Plenty of Sunni Mosques.
The Afghans belong Co the Sunni
branch of Mohammedanism, a rival
creed to that of the Shiahs, accepted
by the Persians. There are $50 Sunni
mosques in Kandahar and not one
Shah mosque, although many OF the
city jewellers from outside Afghanis-
tan are Shiahs. Topping the towns
skyline is the lofty dome Of the tomb
of Ahmad Shah Durrani, which may
be seen by the traveller while he is
still far from the outer wall.
Kandahar is in the same latitude as
Dallas, Texas, but because it is sur
rounded by deserts and mountains its
climate is more nearly comparable to
that Of the drier portions of northern
Mexico. There is little rainfall, and
in summer the temperature rises to
most uncomfortable heights.
East and north of Kandahar better
roads were encountered than those OF
eastern Afghanistan, and the expedi-
ton had little difficulty in reaching
Kabul. It found that the ambitious
modern capital city which former King
Amanullah had almost completed on
the outskirts Of Kabul before his visit
to the United States In 1923, is now
deserted. Governmental activities, as
during past centuries, are carried on
in old Kabul.
Kabul is one of the three Of the least
known capitals in the world today.
The others are Lhasa, capital Of Tibet,
and Rad, capital Of the newly recog-
nized country, Nedj, in central Arabia.
Kabul granted the Trans-Asia expe-
dition permission to enter, but Gus
tomarily it hangs out no welcome
signs to visitors, distinguished or 9TH
erwise. The Afghan capital, like the
rest of the Asian monarchy Of which
it is the largest city, asks little from
the outside world, and would like the
attitude reciprocated. The desire for
isolation Is a heritage to the Afghan
Of today from his remote ancestors,
who "took to the hills" from the
plains to escape being overrun by some
of Asia's migrating hordes.
Yet Kabul is far from crude or
primitive. 1t has electric lights from
a hydroelectric power plant, tele-
phones, many automobiles but few
roads, machine shops, munitions
works, and factories for making soap,
shoes, and cloth, all built under Eng
lish supervision. Its tanneries, estab-
lished through the cooperation Of out
side experts, are sources of especial
pride.
Kabul Big and Busy.
Kabul itself is busy city Of about
100000 people. One can only guess at
the population because the single eff
fort at a census failed before the in
nate exclusiveness Of the Afghan.
Rather than tell their names and ages
so many Kabul residents either left
the city or hid away that business was
disrupted and the census was aban-
doned.
KabuPs f1at-roof dwellings rise in
sweeping tiers from the banks of the
Kabul river to sun-parched foothills.
1000 feet above the sea, higher than
the peak of Mt. Mitchell, loftiest of the
Appalachian chain. The peaks of the
Hindu Kush, three times as high. jut
into the skyline not far away. Hence
its winters are cold and its summers
mild.
Piano players and monographs give
the ear an inkling OF the home life
of Afghanistan's capital-a home life
which is screened from the eye by in
terminable mud walls. Probably no.
where in the East Is the seclusion of
women more complete than In Kabul.
The extent of mans walls is the bar
ometer Of his social station.
When a western idea finally reaches
the Kabul home the impact often
leaves strange anticlimax. The story
is told of one wealthy KabuIian who
would have nothing less than grand
piano in his home. After many months
it arrived. but minus bench for the
player. That's all right" said the
purchaser. I'm accustomed to sitting
on the floor Saw off its legsl"
One of the most interesting sights
in Kabul is it's covered bazaar, or
street of shops, similar to the Street
Called Straight" in Damascus. In it's
mazes, struggling, burdened, sweating
masses of humanity, donkeys, fat
tailed sheep, camels, beggars, and dogs
meet and mingle amid the pungens
odors of food and the welter of mid
day.
In direct contrast there Is the de-
Hghtful high-walled garden of Baber,
a few miles west of Kabul. In the
corner of this rose-embowered spot lies
the grave Of Baber. 'the Tiger" who