The Indianapolis times., 1931-09-22
Simplicity
Rules for
Afternoon
BY ROSETTE HARGROVE
NEA Service Writer

PARIS, Sept. 16-Now that the
excitement that always precedes the
presentation of new fashions has
died down, 1t is relief TO sit back
and sum up the salient features of
the winter mode.
The few freak clothes that have
been shown certainly are not going
to make any impression at all upon
most women, beyond a certain
amount of mind interest and amuse-
ment.
The leading couturiers know their
business too well than ever to have
had any intention Of foisting petit
coats, crinolines and other oddities
of a bygone era on the practical
modern woman.
Details Are Changed
The afternoon mode remains
simple and chic, and If the dresses
are sometime reminiscent of the
hustle or pull-back skirt era, they
are treated in an entirely modern
way.
The general effect is that of a
clearly defined bust and waistline,
which is achieved by science Of
cut and fit of which Paris alone
possesses the secret, and yet re-
tanning that simness Of hip which
was unknown in the late eighties.
A great proportion Of the novel
ty in the new styles is found in
details rather than in definite
changes of line. Instead Of the
fantastic number of yards which
the new dresses had been pre-
dicted as likely to feature, there
is a noticeable narrowing Of skirt
hens.
Svelt Line Maintained
The svelt line, even in afternoon
dresses, is maintained, and the re-
strained fullness, in the guise of in
crusted godets or pleated panels, is
still placed knee high. Some cou-
turiers have maintained the front
of the skirt perfectly plain, almost
tight, and massed the fullness at
the back. Others prefer to place
it on both sides, or back and front,
leaving the sides fiat.
Modified leg of = m t o n, puff
sleeves and even sleeves with a
Slight medieval touch to them are
all featured.
Sleeves in Variety
The plain long and tight-fitting
sleeve appears old-fashioned now If
it does not sport some extra volant,
pleated frill or bouffant, which can
be placed exactly where one
chooses-starting from the shoulder
and finishing just above or below
the elbow, or starting from the ell
bow and ending somewhere mid
arm.
The cross-over bodice ending in
a bow at the back or crossing at
the back too and made to tie in
front or at the side, is featured to
quite a large extent by Augusta
bernard in her evening dresses.
TorSaded shoulder straps are an
other new feature, as are tiny pull
sleeve effects carried out in artifi-
. cial flowers, such as red velvet roses
with a black velvet gown, or gold or
silver lame flowers on perfectly
plain cut formal evening gowns.
Lace Appears in Mode
She also shows peplum of vul-
ture plumes in soft, grayish white
on white chiffon evening dress.
Augustabernard features the new
dull crepe-like velvet which is
called "Bagheera" velours, both in
her afternoon and evening gowns.
These are singularly free from
fussinesS of details, but rely on
beautifully harmonized lines for
their formality.
Lace, in black and few distin-
guished colors, fashions five or six
models, TERED volants and tiny ruff
11es disposed diagonally on the
skirt forming the only decoration.
Panels finely gauged from waist to
hem strike a new note, too.