davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-10-30

Chairs for those who wish TO sit while
writing messages are Just being placed
In London telegraph ofices.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20

strung on a chain interpreted with gilt
beads. These come IN wide rance of
colors to suit any costume.
A METHYSTS and pearls are favored
combination this season, and beau
t.ful examples OF jewelry made Of these
stones are to be found in many of the
shops. The slightly more daring mode
OF garnetS, mounted in clusters and
stars. and picked out with bright points
Of gold, Is another old favorite brought
back 10 grace the styles of 1882.
Clip-on earrings are a novelty to be
found In almost all the department
stores. They look as though they would
be much more convenient and becoming
than the old screw type OF earring.
Mingling with all the delicate charm
Of Victorian REVEALS, there Is still the
bizarre note of the baubles which take
their inspiration from the French
Colonial Exposition, productive OF so
much that is interesting in the way of
style features. Brilliant beads, huge in
size and of tropical richness of color,
that seem to have nothing whatever in
common with the fragile beauty of the
Empress Eugene mode, are advocated
TO accompany the new sports frocks.
"You pays your money and you takes
your choice" is the reflection one ar
rives at after a visit to these eolorful
Jewelry counters.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Dimple Is Mark
Of the Coquette

Experts in physiognomy tell US that
'dimples placed at the corner. of the
mouth indicate playfulness, mirthful-
ness and sense of humor, while dim
pies at the outer side of the cheek be-
token sociability. agreeability, skill IN
nattery and desire to please.
Few natural coquettes lack dimples,
and 1t is recorded that Nell Gwynne
had dimples in her cheeks, hands,
shoulders and elbows. Dimpled babies
are said to be invariably sweet-tem-
pered and happy.
The chin dimple isn't really dimple
at all, because it is permanent feature,
depending on the shape of the bone
and muscles, not on the presence Of
fatty tissue.
It Is said to indicate an admiration
OF the opposite sex and a love OF the
beautiful. It oftens occurs with an
artistic temperament" Among mod
ern actresses. Julia Marlowe's face Is
characterized by this feature. 1t was
likewise possessed by Joseph Jefferson
and Sir Henry Irving. Musicians often
possess it-notably the composers
List, Schunann and Schubert,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
The "Sugarloaf" Silhouette

there Is less difference between the two.
There is a new type of dress that is
exceedingly practical and FITS most adj
nirably into American life. the perfect
cocktail, or speakeasy, dress. In length
these dresses resemble the day clothes,
but in material and cut show their
relation to evening clothes, solving the
problem of the correct thing to wear
when ones escort is not in evening
clothes.
X r X X
Decolletages are higher in front, and
many Of them use an arrangement Of
strappings and landings at the back.
rather a lattice effect, to give q much
higher line in the back also.
Satin and velvet are prominent for
both afternoon and evening, as well as
the brocadeS and lanes previously re-
ferred to. The latter also are used for
afternoon, and there are number Of
silk and light wool prints, of the stand
ard Persian motifs, for daytime wear.
The only pajamas shown were those
intended for yachting. One amusing
tailored suit, called Petit Homme."
has a tight, straight skirt, striped like
a mans trousers and marked by mar
row inverted stitched pleat, front and
back, as well as at the sides. The cut
away coat is of Oxford gray and is
bound all around with silk braid.
D. L. M.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Paris DEGREES
Erect Carriage

Watch out for the new erect car
r;age. ats on its way and it will be
the perfect antithesis of the debutante
SLOUGH that was in favor not 50 long
ago. So watch your step and watch
your posture, for It's chests up, hips
back and shoulders down. Coats no
longer have to be clutched at the front
10 keep them closed and hands are free
TO hang gracefully at the sides, to hold
a purse or possibly to snuggle comfort.
ably In q small muff.
The very latest developments in
French fashions confirms this rumor of
the return Of the erect carriage, and To
aecentuate the new posture there il a
tendency In the very newest French
dresses TO drape the material up a little
at the back. There are so-called apron
drapings that suggest the. silhouette of
the 1880s. and scrne of the more pic.
turesquc type Of evening dresses show
puffs and rufies at the back of a real
hustle type.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Basques, Frilled Skirts and the Modernized
Crinoline Featured-New Silhouettes
Make Worth's Clothes Interesting
to Women of Many Types.

winter, for not only are they shown In
our shops. but many women already
are wearing them.
WHILE daytime clothes are on new
lines. changes are not 50 marked
as in evening dress. The idea Of the
ensemble Is passing. Although coats are
shown with simple matching dresses, the
trend IS toward, separate utility coats
for morning. afternoon and evening. 10
be worn with different gowns.
Jacket suits are important. and there
are any number Of different interpre-
tations, including the bolero and the
basque. that are worthy Of eonsidera-
ton.
Sports clothes have changed least Of
all. but there is a tendency toward
skirts slightly longer, jackets more fitted
and neckIines closer to the throat.
\
FOLLOWING are a few fashion notes
= cleaned from the clothes designed
by Worth this season.: Little sleeves
are suggested for informal evening
gowns. Buttons are on all daytime
coats; the bothersome gesture Of hold
ing together coat and thereby often
destroying its line. is a lost gesture.
Evening coats have Eeleeves that are very
wide below the elbow, with the coat
usually in pastel color.
Materials are: Fine woolens in d.
agonal weaves, jersey and corduroy for
the morning: broadcloth, crepe marc
cain and dull velvets for afternoon: and
chiffon, net, satin, lace and velvet for
the evening.
.Colors In sports clothes are African
brown. violet. Algerian red and various
shades Of blue and green. Other day
time clothes include black, violet and
various shades Of green and red. For
evening there are pale shades Of blue,
pink and violet and black.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20

PARIS.
I-HE collection Of Jean Patou
aroused even more interest than
usual this year. on three counts.
The complete absence OF black
from the collection is one OF the
most striking experiments In the en-
tire season, more impressive because OF
the nrominence usually accorded to
black here. That, plus the new sll-
houette, quite different from the show
inps in any other house, has made
sensation. The third item of novelty
Is the introduction of Persian colors,
brocades which are authentic copies OF
old Persian documents, and Persian
thread embroidery at throat and
Black has been replaced, to q large
extent, by the darkest of the Persian
colors, a shade of brown known
as Caroub. Black is present only in
the ski costumes, an effect care1uuy
studied for its effectiveness against the
snow. Patou uses both shaped beretS
and the old-fashioned earlap cap for
Winter sports wear, and always with
Norfolk Jacket effect.
Besides the brown, the Persian red
and green are seen throughout the coll
lection, as we'll as soft tones or blue,
pink and rose, all reminiscent OF old
Persian embroideries. These appear not
only in frocks, but often in the satin
TUNES which accompany many suits,
ofteneSt in the Caroub shade. TUNES
vary In length from half way to the
knees. to almost the bottom of the
skirt, where just a hint of the suit
color Is discovered at the hem.
n y
The new silhouette, M. Patou him
self most aptly describes as Sugar
loaf" While Americans are not all
familiar with this type Of sugarloaf,
1t is in reality a cone. The perfect
figure, as envisaged here, has a tiny
head, surmomted by q small hat,
rather pinched-in shoulders, normal
waistline and delicately widening
skirt to its hem. The entire collection
shows none of the reminders Of past
periods, but is definitely cut to this
idea.
Skirt lengths for daytime are slightly
longer than last season and for eve
ming little shorter, which means that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Long Skirts for Evening
They Reach Floor for Formal, or Ankle for
Informal Use-Colors With Black
or Alone Are Approved.

but there is an increasing interest this
season In the stiI less formal evening
dress made with ankle-length skirt
q type of dress that you can wear to
dinners, evening card parties, the thea
ter and less formal dances. Dinner
dresses, theater dresses and the So
called Sunday dress are included
under this classification.
Having decided on the typ If dress
you wish to choose, the nes.s question
usually Is one Of color. Choose black
only If 1t Is particularly becoming, re-
membering that in this season Of many
colors, the black evening dress must
possess unusual distinction. You may
use black in q two or three-tone COM
bination--a black skirt with bodice
of white, ivory or pale pastel tone, or
combination Of black, pale pink and
rose.
When It comes to colors, your choice
is limitless. They range from the palest
pastels through the jewel colors to dark
green, dark brown and sometimes dark
blue. Most significant Of all, perhaps,
are all shades of the violet range, which
have been so little used for the past
few seasons.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
BY MARY MARSHALL.

Whether your evening wardrobe calls
for 20 new dresses or only one, you
should give serious consideration to GER
tain recent fashion developments as
they apply to the clothes that we
wear after six. The new colors, fabrics.
silhouettes and trimmings all have a
special adaptation for the evening.
There are several distinctly different
types of evening dress from which to
choose, differences that depend to a
large measure on the occasions when
the dress is to be worn. There are the
very formal evening dresses appropriate
only for important occaSions-the opera,
an especially important theater party, a
ceremonious dinner ora formal dance
Possibly you have no need for this type
of dress at all, but II you have, then
remember that it calls for exquisite ma
terial, fine workmanship and finish
rather than for elaboration or intricacy.
Dresses of this sort, this season. call for
long, simple lines with skirts that touch
the floor or barely escape it, provided
sometimes with train.
The somewhat less formal evening
dress 10 also made with lonk skirt,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Wool Costumes
And Fur Jackets

THE short fur jacket is a feature
= of all fashions. With the early
morning wool suit or dress, on through
the afternoon, consorting with velvets
and satins, to make its entrance at the
most brilliant of evening functions, we
shall see 1t this Winter.
But 1t Is not the straight coat Of last
season. To supplant that straight coat
we have highly styled affair Smackine
of period influence in its curved waist
line and widened shoulders, and oc-
cording to its degree of formality, some
times we have a faring peplum for
good measure.
Goupy's sleeveless fur coat that ends
few inches below the waistline and
has shoulders cut to extend into caps
over the top Of the arm is received with
enthusiasm in New York. Suit depart
ments &re featuring 1t as part of the
wool suit.
Furriers are finding favorite among
their clientele In an adaptation of this
model with sleeves added Krinmer
and leopard are the furs most often
used for this particular coat.
Gray kidskin Is developed as a sports
style to compete with leopard and
krimmer, ana we shall see many smart
little coats Of these flirs-and many
others, perhaps even the pelt Of the
alley cat-with hats to match, Cashing
dlOilS lIuuASn b1e Ieo ana yellow Au-
tumn foliage to the first foot ball games.
Mink and broadtail are approved for
the fur jack of more formal aspect.
with ermine for the evening. Blatk
broadtail has proved an interesting me-
dunn In developing the high-waiste,l
nipped-in jacket. with small standing
collar, that seems to bring with. It q
Whit Of perfume sensed on rainy DAYS
in childhood odor of camphor
reminiscent Of the attic store room
where grandmother's outmoded furs
were kept In those times before flidhly
specialized cold-storage vaults we're
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20

w WORTH inaugurated three sll-
NJ houettes this season. Reu1i-
NN niscent of the period when
fair women made fashion
history in basqueS ano
draped skirts, is the silhouette found N
gowns with bodices molding the ngure
and skirts drawn up, and back, in form.
Tnoldinr hin lines. The skirts fiare 81
the bottom to trail away in dignineo
trains. This silhouette harkS back 70
the period Of 1880-s1.
Quaint ruffles. sloping upward at the
back, are q feature of the skirts. but
quaint is word not accurate as applied
to the styles OF 1881. Daring Is better
word-but daring only in dress for the
evening-and daring, then, only Tor
those who dare TO be daring.
= x
THERE Is nothing in this silhouette
to foster saftorial animosity. Il
you cannot year it there are plenty OF
others that are new and fashionable
We fear. sometimes. that many women
receive the impression that there has
been 4 revolution of sorts in fashions
No such thing has happened. Good
fashions always are the result Of evolu-
ton, not revolution. and always there
are many types. It must be remembered
that any good collection Of clothes. such
as those shown twice q year in Paris
must be varied to meet 8 cosmopolitan
clientele.
The second silhouette by Worth shows
a modern use Of crinoline and hoops In
black lace and tulle.
Following the lines Of the figure and
defining the natural waistline, the third
silhouette is simple and decidedly 1881.
Il is the sleek silhouette. the one upon
which so many Of our American shops
are pinning their faith. American
drawing rooms viii see all types this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Jewelry With New Styles

d oAEANTIc fashions. Sentimental
~ fashions. All the dear. dead ghosts
Of days departed, are with. US this sea-
son In the jewelry which smart women
are wearing with the new romantic
fashions Of the 1905 and 1906.
Reproductions Of the jewelry worn by
the Empress Eugene herself are being
shown. PLAQUES Of tiny brilliants. imi-
tation sapphires. emeralds, rubies or
other colorful stones, are mounted with
seed pearls. There are necklaces, brace
lets and earrings to match. The atten-
ton to the finer details OF the jeweler' s
craft. as shown In the originals. has
been expended on these reproductions.
The settings of the plaques, for in
stance, are engraved on the back, just
as the originals were. Throughout: the
pieces are beautifully finished and re-
markedly inexpensive:
One shop has gathered from here.
there and everywhere real old jewelry
which probably has been reposing IN
bureau drawers and safe deposit boxes
for a generation or so. On It's counters
these antiques mingle with creditabie
reprod ions. Rings with small en-
ameled miniatures surrounded by pearls,
match pendants Of the same romantic
type. And there are massive moral eI-
fects Of gold in several different colors,
these being authentic Victorian pieces.
At this same shop there is return
of the vogue for black onyx and for jet.
Both these standbys of our grand
mothers are found here in reprodue'
tions Of old pieces and IN genuine an
tiques.
bangle bracelets Of q new type caught
- our eye at another shop. These
were Of gold or silver, twisted and hol'
low inside. Worn several on a wrist
they chimed delicately as they FLASHED
together, like silver bells heard far on
AZ this same counter were some verJ
heavy carved wood bracelets IN varioui
widths, either in black or brown, the
latter particularly interesting as some
thing TO wear with the new Fail
costumes; so many Of which are brown
Bracelets are especially important Thu
season, since sleeves are so often short
Two round bracelets Of wood, very mar
row. caught together ON one side by &
clasp Of wrought silver, or of silver and
enamel we're unusual enough TO catch
our eye IN one Of New York's important
shops.
If, the realm Of that sort OF novelt,
9ewelry which one buys for q special
costume and never puts on again, are
necklaces of rondsls Of felt, caught
together with tiny rondels of gold, and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Bound Buttonhole.

The bound buttonhole b, often used
as a decoration. This is not difficult.
Mark out the position for your button
hole with basting thread, then take
Q straight strip Of material one inch
wide and one inch longer than the but
line down the center with a sharp pen
ell CT the material will take -, or
otherwise basting thread. Place the
strip face downward on the right side
Of the material over the basted line
and then machine stitch each SIDE, CT
the line. Cut through both the strip
and material beneath between the
lines Of stitching) as carefully as you
can, and pull the strip through to the
wrong side. Turn in the raw edges on
the inside and fell neatly down. Press
the finished buttonhole on the wrong
side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Pearls Photograph.

Pearls are said to be the jewel that
photographs best.
That's what the jewelers. and pho
tographers say.
And when you come to think Of It,
pearls are about the only jewel we can
recall when we think Of photographs OF
our friends. We can remember lustrous
strings OF lovely pearls in many photo"
graphs, but few Of other stones.
So, If you have pearls, by all means
take them with you when you 80 to be
photographed. They will catch the light
and make soft, lovely pools of lustrous
color in your photograph.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Pastel Furs Are
Becomingly Soft

Fur trimming win appear on many
usually the furs chosen for this pur-
pose are of the light and supple sort,
such as caracul, ermine or barunduki.
Narrow bands of ermine are used on
the new black velvet dresses. Barunduki
with its tones of brown and black is
used on black Spanish tile or brown
dresses, black caracul on black cloth
and brown caracul on brown dresses.
A tab or other ornament of the same
fur may appear on the hat Of felt to
match the dress.
Fur is sometimes used to make the
belts Of the new coats Fur belts are
ako used on new dresses and are US
ually finished with buckles of polished
wood.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Color Combinations.

Wood brown may be combined with
soft light green or with rust or Span
ish tile. A one-piece dress, for instance,
may have a skirt of brown lightweight
wool attached to an upper portion of
green or rust colored silk or, crepe.
Or you may select a brown two-piece
suit and wear 1t with blouse Of the
contrasting color. The same color COM
hination can then be carried out in the
rest of the ensemble by way of brown
hat trimmed with feather ornament
showing the contrasting color or with
q clip set with green or rust colored
stones.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Turbans.

Turbans are among the newest hats.
They are pulled down over the right
eye, pushed up to show the hair at the
left. in the essential line Of the mode.
Sometimes they are made of cire rib
bon. Remember when you put on your
new hat to place 1t first little to the
PACK OF your head, push 1t down at the
back and then draw It forward into DO
sition.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Fashion Gable.
Paris, September 10.

Paris, September 10.
THE first Sunday night dinner
Il dance at the Ritz brought
out many new evening frocks,
including much faille and velvet.
Bright dull colors like gold green
and wine, with touches of real
lace prominent. with the usual
pastels. and black and dark
brown also seen. Less white worn
than at any time during the past
year.
The smartest skirts are sheath
to the knees before the fullness
is released. Skirt lengths are
divided between ankle and floor
length. Drop shoulder effects,
ruche trimmings, and puffed bow
sashes, often Of velvet, seen on
silk dresses. Short lame wraps
worn. Crystal and jeweled head
bands favored. Smartest gloves
end Just above the wrist. Shoes
match dresses In both fabric and
color.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20
Stifen Tafeta.

Taffeta dresses are inclined to become
limp. To remedy this. sponge the ar
ticle on the wrong side with borax and
water. Use half teaspoonful OF boraX
to half pintrof warm water. and be
sure It is quite dissolved. When nearly
dry, iron the article on the wrong side
with moderately hot iron.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20

Since The little town Of Kawaidani,
in the six worm district of Japan,
adopted prohibition five years ago 1t
has paid of its $4,000 debt. built a
500 .o0O school and substantially In
creased IFS sayinas bank deposits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-20

TiOO versions Of the apron
silhouette, one in a TuHe-frim.
med dress of rose-Pi1k crepe
Nth diamGnte buttons, the
other in a gotOH of pastel pink
satin tUith Curved fucks on the
skirt, and pale pink plush
around the neck. Costumes on
this page designed By Worth.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-02-16
VESSEL T0 REPLACE BOXER MAY BE 0N
 JOB THIS SUMMER

The Gateway Is informed that the new vessel which will rer- place the MS Boxer, of the Bur eau of Education and which will probably make the Port of Sew ard it's base of operations for the Westward school and village dis trictS, will be no less than 1900 net tons register and will cost not to exceed $4OO,O00.
 The boxer will operate in the protected waters of Southeastern Alaska for three of four years and will then be sold by the government.
 Plans for the new ship are vir- tually completed She may be constructed within the next six months and may be ready for service next summer.
 Accommodation for 30 passen- gers will be provided in the new ship compared with accomoda- tions for 10 in the Boxer. The new vessel will have a wooden hull sheathed to protect her from the great ice flows of the Arc tic. She will be equipped with deisel engines of 1900 horse power and will be capable of a speed of 14 knots compared to nine knots, which is about what the Boxer can do at her best in fair weather.
 The new vessel will have re- frigerator space for 2000 rein deer carcasses compared to 500 carried by the Boxer. Aboard the new ship will be clinic attended by a physician and a dentist.