The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-03-18
silhouette
Is Changed
Entirely
BY JEAN PATOU
Written for NEA Service

PARIS, March 18.-Vivid and
varied colorings and an entirely new
silhouette are the striking charac-
teristics of my spring collection,
which aims for all that is conveyed
by the season-light, sunshine, and
better days.
The line calls for fullness on the
sides, with front and back perfect
" fat. This is a brusk departure
from last years theme Of fiat sides
with all fullness massed at the front
and back
The new mode is rather reminis-
cent of the Mexican gaucho, and
will be found easy to wear and very
becoming.
Matching tones are in disfavor,
and all hues Of the artists palette
now are being called upon to en-
rich and adorn pretty women,
Opaline Colors Are New
I an offering as new color9
opaline yellow and opaline green.
Like my rose opaline" Of last sum-
mer, these two shades are taken
from the tints Of the opalines be-
loved by our grandmothers.
The green will suit women with
blond or red hair, while the yellow
will become brunettes and chestnut
browns.
You might be astonished at first
by the audacity Of some Of the color
combinations, but that is because
the eye has become dull by the ex-
cessive sobriety Of coloring Of past
seasons.
This will pass quickly, and we
shall soon know again the Joy Of
beautiful colors.
Although much black is used as
a SOLDERING influence, there is ten
dency to combine several colors with
the apparition of bold touch in an
otherwise severe ensemble.
Strives for Youthfuless
This may be attained by a flower,
handkerchief, blouse or hat. In cut
and coloring, I have striven for
youthfulness and smartness.
Clothes for golf, travelling, mo-
toring or just merely walking have
remained practically the same. I
have used some wool jerseys, but
the majority Of models are made
of English fabrics.
For beach clothes I have two
formulas; firstly, the silk pajama,
now worn universally, and, second
ly, a more practical and really
original idea which consists Of an
ensemble fashioned in jersey and
comprising a pair Of shorts and a
pair of beach pajamas, thus COM
bining the beach and swimming
suit in one.
Three Types Shown
For morning clothes opinion is
divided on what is correct to wear.
Some women prefer the tailored
suit, some the simple dress worn
underneath a coat, and others the
tailored coat-dress.
All three types are represented
in my collection, but the same air
Of sobriety prevails throughout. The
silhouette is simple, although in
spired from the general line OF
evening dresses.
The main characteristic is in I'M
peccable cut, and the fabrics used
are the best English weaves.
For afternoon wear wool jersey,
lacking in refinement and real ele-
gance, has almost disappeared, hav-
ing given place to the old concep-
ton Of the tea gown.
The new afternoon dress has not
the richness and femininity Of olden
times, it is true, but that is only
normal
Tailored Suits Are Supple
In this category there are many
coats and a very few supple, very
dressy tailored suits. When I use
a coat I have two formulas, either
the long white OF colored tunic
reaching to within a few inches OF
the hem of the skirt and the coat
no longer than the tunic, or dress
of printed fabric entirely covered
by a. long, plain coat.
A new feature is the total absence
of both cut and dress of the same
material.
For formal evening wear the
mode this season has much more
fantasy. Is much holder and shows
new color combinations.
Wraps are very alluring, with
striking lines and are often trimmed
with fur.
In blouses, there is a very new
feature in the shawl movement.
Sometimes this is done in lingerie,
sometimes in a different fabric than
the dress, but often it is done with
the same material.
These fichus call for the flower
posy. which completes them har-