davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

smarter your costume with the fur era
watts, ties and the silk or wool scarfs;
that buttons have returned as trimming
for both suits and blouses; that the I'M
lined jacket Is important; that belts
with huge jeweled brooches used as
clasps are very new, having been intro
duced by Patou.
Colors for suits, in general, are based
on blue, green, brown, and black and
white, with variety introduced in the
way Of color contrasts. The mode was
becoming tiresome, so along came color
contrasts, together with other innova-
tons, as still another means OF DIVERSE
flying it.
Jackets of some suits never succeed in
reaching the waistline. as in one shown.
Irene Dana designed it Of wine-colored
linen. Under the coat, at the waistline
and beneath the short little vest one
sees the bright stripes of the blouse.
THEN there is the fitted hip-length
4 coat of black and white jersey
tweed, as designed by Lyolene, worn
with a white Jersey blouse embroidered
in black This is a popular length of
coat for those who like tailored effects.
Chantal's green wool suit, trimmed
with tucks, an important color in
Spring fashions, Is allied with trim
ming, tucking that is equally important.
London Trades does a suit in black and
white tweed, with a still longer coat,
featuring the lingerie collar and cuffs
on suits.
There are various new ensemble ef-
fects. A three-piece, costume, with a
seven-eighth length coat, by O'Rossen,
provides the ever interesting color con-
trast indigenous to these fashions. In
1t a skirt of dark green broadcloth is
combined with blouse of yellow jersey
lace trimmed with the broadcloth, and
a coat of light green wool lined with
dark green completes this costume fea-
turing the full length coat.
Blouses for the three-piece suits are
as varied as the suits, ranging, as they
do, from tweeds and jerseys on through
gay silks in such colors as green, yellow,
strawberry-all of these names have adj
jectlves before them to denote various
new hadingS-through pale blonde
satin to organizes, dotted muslin and
batistes.
While the short blouse, just over the
waistline, Is perhaps the smartest, there
are casques and basques, and others
difficult to describe. Then there Is the
waistcoat blouse. Patou used these with
suits in his Spring showing. in prefer
ence to any Of the regular blouses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Chanel Sports Show.
ing Emphasizes This
Development = De.
tachable Facings of
Pique on Goats
NJ a t c h BIouses.
Sleeves Widened at
Elbow.

THE most interesting new variation
of the silhouette in Channels show
ing of sports clothes is at the waistline.
which is much lower in the back than
in the front. Chanel feels that this
effect gives to the figure the added
height which is essential to the new
styles. Jackets of the costumes shown
were definitely fitted at the waistline,
while skirts achieved fullness by cores
or slightly circular cut, rather than by
pleats. Peplums accentuated the slim
waistline In some of the jackets.
Sports ensembles here were Of two
sorts-either q dress and unlined jacket,
or a skirt, vest and unlined jacket.
Skirts for sports wear remained about
Is inches from the floor
A new note in jackets was a. loose
facing on either side of the 'front.'
matching the accompanying blouse in
color and material The blouses them
selves we're usually cut on the lines of
a vest and were of pique or shantoneil,
one of the new materials sponsored by
this house. Often there was . diagonal
breast pockets set into the scanning.
This same line was apparent in dresses
and coats as well as in blouses.
Chanel has devoted particular atten-
ton to sleeves this season She offers
them in an infinite variety Of detail.
There are many three-quarters length
sleeves finished with a cuff, usually of
the lingerie fabric which is used for
the blouse as well When Channels
sleeves are long they are cut Just to the
wrist bone. since this designer feels that
the slightly longer sleeve, which is in.
general use, takes away from the smart
ness of an ensemble when gloves are
worn.
Almost always sleeves were widened a
little at the elbow Very often there
was some complicated trimming, per-
haps a twisting of applique of the fab
ric, or cut-out effect at the cuff. This
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Make Stationery
A Little UnuSua!

You can have interesting note paper
without having expensive note paper.
Look around until you find tiny shape
that you like, and then always order
that kind. Your friends will get to
know your letters from their color and
shape.
OF course, some colors are just out
OF the question In note paper, although
there is more allowance made now for
personal taste in the matter than there
used to be. Once ladies" used only
white. Once, however, when ladies were
still the fashion, they were allowed to
use pink and blue, and those shades
were considered quite "ladylike.'
Now gray, certain dull, light blues,
cream and light beige seem to be quite
allowable. But If you choose your pa
per carefully for shape and texture,
white is always distinctive enough.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Suede Jackets.

Maggy Rouff, in private life the
Baroness Besancon de Wagner,
who has just arrived in this
country as q good will messenger
from the French ministry of
commerce, has the following to
say on the desirability of Divers
ity Of dress.
II may say that I was among
the first of the Paris designers to
sense the imminent danger of
Standardization in fashions, the
result of which would have been
style monotony. I have never
used greater variety in lines,
colorS and designs than this sea-
son. My object was to allow
women Of different type and
figure to dress accordingly. I am
convinced that the era of undig-
nified boyish trends and of
tedious uniformity is closed. and
that we are looking forward to
fashion future which will place
diversity as the center of style
interest"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

NATURALIZATION in dress is at
an end for the time being. 1t has
given way to diversity. So there
~ should be little or no static in the
balmy air of Spring when 1t
comes TO broadcasting fashion news.
Last season there was no end Of a
lot of interference due to walls about
designers creating only one type of
clothes, and that for the young and
slender.
1t was footless idea, when we come
to think of it, each woman trying -
1T herself into a mold. No true de-
signer ever intended such q thing TO
happen. The artist In dress designing
creates for certain types. A woman not
of the type for which the model Is
created should not insist upon wearing it.
All clothes this Spring may be said
TO have the element of variety, and
since the variety Is so great, knowing
how TO choose clothes Is increasingly
important
Take suits as an example Of variety.
Their types are legion. We have six
different lengths in suit coats that APP
peared at the Paris openings. There is
considerable diversity, too, In other
features of the suits.
HERE are a few things to bear in
mind when choosing suits this
Spring: That the waistline Is defined
in some way, either through the cut or
by means of belt; that the coat with
the three quarter-length sleeves Is a
good style; that in choosing a coat
without fur you conform to fashion and
give yourself an opportunity TO vary and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Fashion Settles
Skirt Lengths

The question of skirt lengths is set
tied for the time being, so far as the
dressmakers are concerned. But for the
individual woman 1t is still far from be-
ing an entirely closed book. Most
women who are fashion conscious at all
recognize the right skirt length when
they see 1t, but certainly all women do
not manage to have their own skirts
precisely of the right length.
In the fitting rooms of one Of the
large stores is a neatly framed placard
warning customers to allow filters to
make their skirts long enough. Before
insisting on having skirts shorter than
the filter wishes to make them, the pla-
card requests customers TO leave the
limited confines of the fitting room and
walk in one of the larger rooms before
q mirror, because, viewed at close range,
q skirt looks longer than 1t does when
seen from q distance.
Evening dresses and formal afternoon
dresses must be fairly long. If you find
that the long skirt makes you look too
tall or too stodgy or more matronly
than you want to look don't try to
mend matters by shortening 1t.
Long skirts have no place whatever in
the daytime picture. They are as out of
place in the up-to-date business Office
as the old-time knee-length skirt.
Some women doubtless have their day
time suits and dresses made rather
longer than they should, with the idea
that since skirts have recently become
longer they are likely to become still
longer. There Is no valid reason for
such prediction. While for the most
part the important French dressmakers
have left skirt lengths about where they
have been for several months one or
two have actually made daytime skirts
just trifie shorter. At least there is
as good authority for making them a
trifle shorter as for making them longer,
and spelling the effect of new dress
for the sake Of appearances six or seven
months hence Is, any way you look at it,
rather bad business. It is as foolish as
always buying children's dresses two
sizes too large so that In the event the
dress is still wearable two years hence
1t will not be too tight.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
BY MARY MARSHALL.

~oOD clothes suits, dresses
and coats-without the com.
Y plement of well-chosen access
~ series, are like good foods
served without seasoning or
garnishes. The clothes will, of course,
keep us warm and decently covered just
as the unseasoned food will provide
necessary nourishment, but the effect is
uninteresting and unpalatable.
To carry the smile little further
dresses, suits and coats worn with in
appropriate gloves, scarfs and other ac-
cesSories are like meat and vegetables
served with the wrong iavoring and
seasonings-roaSt beef with vanilla or
cream cake with onion fiavoring. AL
most every one realizes the incongruity
of that sort of food combinations but
there are many who still seem to have
only vague idea about how to select
accessories that are really harmonious.
And there are other women who hedge
the whole question by getting along
with practically no accessories at all.
To be sure they wear hats, shoes, gloves
and stockings Of q sort, but they never
think of adding to their collection Of
scarfs, necklaces and earrings or of
varying the effect Of their various cos
tunes by changing the belt or of trans
forming a suit by wearing it with a
clever new blouse, quite different from
the one that was sold with the suit.
Well dressed women always pay spe-
cial heed to the choice and care of ac-
cessories and this year more than ever
they realize that accessories are very
important.
r y 4
GLOVES are more important than
they have been for a dozen years,
and the coming of warmer weather will
in no way diminish their Importance.
Lighter gloves are favored for street
wear this Spring and washable gloves
of white or very light-toned washable
kid are already taking the place of the
black or brown gloves that were used
for practical street wear during the
cooler weather.
Several OF the important French
dressmakers-notably Goupy-have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Designers Views.

Sports coats of light weight
suede dyed in pale colors are
new, as shown by one Of the
foremost American designers of
sports clothes.
Beautiful in coloring and Of the
cardigan jacket type, they are
far cry from the masculine type
of suede coat for the golf course.
Shell-pink jackets are shown
with pale green cloth skirts and
white knitted wool blouses, and
sea-green jackets are worn with
pale pink skirts and white
blouseS.
Many of the Shetland wool
blouses worn with these suits end
at the waist line, where they are
attached to knitted wool belts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Many Are Made to Go
With Special Dresses
and Cannot Be Worn
With Others Mil.
liners Make Efforts
to Achieve M or e
Formal, More I'm
portant Type.

HATS are seldom classed as access
= series of dress since they are en-
titled to a position of Importance on a
par with dresses and suits and wraps,
and yet many of the very small hats
have actually been designed as access
series to the dresses, suits or coats with
which they are to be worn. And be-
cause they are made to 60 with certain
dresses In your wardrobe. because a
number of them can be tucked into
your travelling bag and because they
are not at all expensive, you will prob
ably have a number of them.
But the milliners are not at all will
ing TO let the hat question 60 ut that
and in their efforts to bring about the
more formal, more important type Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Curry of Veal.

Fry half a chopped onion in two
tablespoonfuls Of butter or drippings,
remove and fry one and one-hali
pounds of veal until 1t is brown. Trans
with one pint of milk and cook until
the meat is tender Add salt and pep
per and one teaspoonful of curry pow
der short time before the meat is
done and thicken the milk with one
tablespoonful Of -four before serving.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

Negroes were found in all branches
of the Continental Army, generally
serving in the same regiments with the
white soldiers. Connecticut had one
complete company of colored soldiers
and Rhode Island a complete regi-
ment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Meat Pot Pie.

Cut beef, chicken or other meat into
pieces. Put into boiling water, cover
and cook until tender, seasoning to
taste. When the stew Ii done add drop
hard-boiled egg, parsley, bay Leaf or
other herb lends variety to this dish.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Uncooked Fudge.

Beat together one egg and four table,
spoonfuls Of cream, fold In three table,
spoonfuls of melted butter, half q cup.
full of cocoa and enough confectioner's
sugar so that the mixture can be
kneaded and cut into squares after add
ing one cupful Of nuts or raisins.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

Six Lengths of Goats
Appear Among Those
Which Have Gained
Approval Unlined
Jackets Conspicuous.
Buttons Return as
Trimming = B Ell t S
With Huge Jeweled
Cla sps E nd o f
Standardization Is
Emphasized Color
Contrasts Among In
novatiOnS of Season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

Many people still believe the old say
ing that lightning never strikes twice
upon the same spot, whereas, In point
of fact, there are places which have
been struck not merely once oT twice
but scores Of times.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08
Choice of Accessories

Proper Kind Will Make
Style Dis ii n ctive.
Otherwise, Good
Clothes May Be Like
Foods Served With.
out Sc as o nj n & or
Garnishes = Gloves
More | por ia n t
Than They II av e
Been for a Dozen
Years = Tones for
Stockings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-08

Restrictions against the sale oil
poisons in England are to be strength
ened,
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21
EXCELLENT ROAD NEARs
 COMPLETION |L|AMNA

'The folks in the Iliamna dis trict are delighted with the road being built from Iliamna Bay to the village by the Alaska Road Commission" remarked Samuel B. Foss, we'll known resident of that area who is a visitor in Seward, "and it is expected next fall will see the completion of this project.
 "The road, when completed, will be II miles long and has now reached the top of the Divide. The road crew will come out to Anch- orage on the next trip of the MS Discoverer. The grade is most excellent one and the portion of the road thus far completed is being used to a good purpose.
 MT. Foss is in Seward for medi- cal attention at the Seward Gener- al Hospital, having arrived here with three other residents; bro- ther of MT. Foss is also enroute to the local institution.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21
AIR-MINDED ENGINEER

Otto D. Rohlfs, mining engineer of Seattle, left Anchorage last week for Parks, flying with the Alaskan Airways, Matt Neiminen pilot. MT. Rohlfs is making the trip to Parks in connection with the cinabar deposits at that point. An interesting fact is, that, as in the case of so many others, Mir. Rohlfs came to Alaska to make his first airplane flight.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21
AT THE HOTELS

VAN GILDER-George Ander son, Clarence Johnsen, Lieut.. Wal ter Hodge, Alex Chaparas.
 OVERLAND-T. c. Allison, B. F. Jones, Leonard Greenberger.
 GILLILAND- Dryer, Bill Neville, MT. and Mrs. Floyd Reno, Nels Erickson.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21
CHURCH SERVICES

Lutheran church services will be held in the Protestant-EpiSco- pal Church Friday, September 9, lat 7:30 p. m by R. Frieling.
 R. Frieling
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21

If you haven't tried HORLUCk'S Danish Ice Cream you have missed something good. Sold only at the Candy Cottage.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21

Keep your hair looking lovely at the SEWARD BEAUTY SHOP by investigating my "Three Months Club" plan. For i m fo m i II phone Adams 90.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21

Phone for HOrlnck's banish let Cream and we will deiive-. Candy Cottage.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21
SATURDAYS GAMES

Oakland 0, Sacramento '. Portland 6, Seattle 2. Missions 5, Hollywood II. Los Angeles 6, San Francisco 5. The game went B innings.
 NATIONAL LEAGUE New York 10, St. Louis s. Philadelphia 3-5, Cincinnati 2-3. Boston 0, Pittsburgh 2. Brooklyn 1, Chicago g.
 AMERICAN LEAGUE Chicago 3-1, Philadelphia 1O-3. St. Louis 0, New York 3. Cleveland 1, Boston 2. Detroit 3, Washington 2.
Seward daily gateway., 1931-09-21

Boston 2-5, Cincinnati 5-14 Brooklyn 6, St. Louis 1. New York 6-6, Chicago 16-7. The above games were the only National League Games.
 AMERICAN LEAGUE Cleveland IA, New York 7-10. Chicago 3-4, Washington 4-6. The above were the only Am erican League games.
 PACIFIC COAST LEAGUE Portland 8-3, Seattle CA. Oakland 4-3, Sacramento 210. Los Angeles 1-5, San Francisco 10-6.
 Missions 20, Hollywood 1-4.
The Bismarck tribune., 1931-05-27
SEVEN ARE THOUGHT
DROWNED AS SL0OP
FOUNDERS IN OCEAN
Body Of Psychiatrist Is Washed
Ashore at Darien, Conn.,,
Tuesday Night
CUTTERS, PLANES IN SEARCH
Believe Entertainer Figuring in
$500, 900 Suit Was Ono
Of Victims
CUTTERS, PLANES IN SEARCH

New York, May 27.-(F-Eight
coast guard cutters searched Long
Island Wednesday for bodies Of the
victims Of the Sea Fox, pleasure
sloop, which apparently foundered
Saturday night or Sunday morning
with the loss of four men and three
women.
Members of the party were widely
known in New York educational and
medical circles.
The body of Mrs. Marcia Snedden
Is, psychiatrist, was washed ashore
at Darien, Conn.,, Tuesday night. She
was the wife of Donald Snedden, New
York university instructor and owner
Of the Sea Fox, who Is one of the
missing. Members of the Snedden
family chartered an airplane al
Bridgeport. Conn, to assist in the
search.
Adele Ryan Mentioned
One Of those believed to have been
aboard the 36-foo cabin sloop when
the party set out from City Island
New Cork, Saturday, was Robert
Johnston, 30. night club entertainer
whose wife, Muriel, his former sing
ing partner, has sued Miss Adele
Ryan for $500, 900 for alienation OF
affections.
Miss Ryan, granddaughter Of the
late Thomas Fortune Ryan, was al
first reported aboard. Her brother
John Barry Ryan, said there was nc
truth to the report. He said she i
in Europe.
So far as ascertained, other mem.
bers of the party were:
Donald Snedden. 28, husband o
Mrs. Snedden, instructor at New Yorl
university. former Stanford university
athlete and Pacific coast diving
champion. +.
Mark Coyne. %. New York. an in.
structor at Riverdale country school
Mrs. Florence Mendenhall, %, for.
mer actress.
Robert Mendenhall, 20. her hus.
band. a statistician at Columbia uni.
versity, brother of Mrs. Snedden.
Miss Doris Dewey, 81, psycholo.
gist at Bellevue hospital.
(Continned on page Six)
The Bismarck tribune., 1931-05-27
TWO AER0NAUTIC
AIDS DEDICATED
Full.ScaIe Wind Tunnel and
SeapIane Channel inspect
ed by Engineers

Langley Field, Virginia. May 27.-
R)-Dedication of two giant aids to
aeronautical research, a full-scale
wind tunnel and seaplane channel
stood Wednesday as the background
for the sixth annual aircraft engi-
neering research conference Of the
national advisory committee for aero
nautics.
Each piece Of equipment, ths COM
mittee said, is the largest In the world
in its field.
The tunnel has an oval-shaped
throat measuring so by 80 feet. per-
mitting the testing Of full-size air
planes in an air stream at velocities
up to lis miles an hour.
It will be placed In operation by
DR.. Joseph s. Ames. chairman Of the
committee and provost OF Johns Hop
kins university.
The seaplane channel Is 2.050 feet
long, a narrow tub of concrete filled
with water and covered with sheet
metal to prevent sunlight and winds
from affecting measurements on sea-
plane floats and flying boat hulls.
The Bismarck tribune., 1931-05-27
Mailing Campaign
To Start Service

Request that every Bismarck
citizen Join in the mailing CAM
paign which will inaugurate the
Bismarck-Fargo airmal line was
made Wednesday by H. p. Cod
dard, secretary Of the Associa ton
Of Commerce.
In order to insure a maximum
load for the plane on its first trim
from Bismarck. local persons are
asked to prepare their letters and
place them in the postoffice by
Sunday night. They are urged to
send personal as well as business
letters by the new facility.
H. T. Murphy, acting postmas-
ter. has completed preparations
for the opening of the new serv-
Ice by installing new slots In the
postoffice for the receipt Of mail.
One is for airmail and special de-
livery letters and the other is for
letters designed for delivery In
Bismarck only.
During few days at the begin.
ming OF each month, Murphy said,
approximately $4,000 letters are
placed In the postoffice for deliv.
cry IN Bismarck. It will save
work and time II these are han.
died separately, he said
The Bismarck tribune., 1931-05-27
RAILROAD PLEA FOR
RATE INVESTIGATION
IS DENIED BY |. c. G.
Commission Declares It Will
Not Probe Freight Charges
on Its Own Motion

Washington. May 27.-P)-Respon-
sibility for definite proposals toward
increased freight rates rests once
more with the railroads.
The Interpretation was attacked by
Interstate Commerce commission Of
ficials to that agencys official an
nouncement Tuesday that it does not
plan to investigate, on its own initia-
tive, the financial conditions Of rail-
roads.
The announcement was mace after
Daniel Willard. president Of the Bal
timore and Ohio railroad, conferred
informally with commission officials,
discussing the carriers concern over
the sharp decline In earnings.
He is one of the committee Of rail-
road presidents designated at a meet
ing of eastern executives In New York
last Thursday to study rate increases
and the finance situation.
The commissions statement said:
"The Interstate Commerce COM
mission today in response to pro-
cedural questions informally present.
ed to it by Daniel Willard, in behalf
Of eastern railroad executives, in
formed him that the commission will
not at this time institute q general
investigation into the general railroad
siuation on its own motion"
When eastern railroads presented
a generalized petition last November
asking study of the effect of the
depression on railroads earning pow
er, the commission made similar
decision.