Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-18

an overlap of transparent material over
figured cloth. The spotted effect of the
figure is thus subdued. Plain materials
In subdued colors are always safe and
can be very pleasing. Shiny surfaces
which reflect light, such as a satin
finished cloth, makes the figure look
larger. The duller, lugterless surface
absorbs light and makes person look
smaller.
Lines and Proportions.
Two sets of lines are used in the max
ing of any costume. They are the
structural lines and the decorative lines
The structural lines are those that are
needed as features Of construction, while
the decorative lines are the lines of
trimmings usually added Decorative
lines should conform TO the structural
lines. The most artistic costume Is that
which indicates and in general follows
the leading lines In the figure. Struc-
tural lines conform largely to natural
body lines. and decorative lines give ex-
preston to natural body lines. Although
the position of the waistline Is subject
to the dictates of fashion, it should be
placed in relation to the whole figure
so that pleasing proportions are made
Every woman should be informed on
such matters as the following:
/. Correct lines and proportions Of
the human figure.
2. Lines. and their effects on surfaces
and figures.
8. Colors and their basic relations to
individuals and occasion.
4. Fabrics and their relation to size
and purpose.
Although fashion DEGREES that gar
ments should ut snugly one season and
loosely another season, there is an
nNn n la
for facility Of movement and comfort
and still makes the garment look trim.
A well fitted garment has a distinctive
look which contributes considerably
toward making woman appear well
dressed. The trim, smart look which
1t has is due not only to the quality of
the material used in it, the straight
stitching and good pressing while con-
structing it, but also to the careful at
tention given to the following details
when fitting:
/. The correct positions of the grain
of the material in relation to the length,
width and proportions Of the figure.
2. The position of the seam lines In
relation to the structural divisions Of
the body underneath.
3. The amount of ease or fullness in
relation to the shape and size of the
body and the movement Of 1t.
While it is desirable to be always
suitably dressed for houSework, bust
ness, informal and formal social func-
tions, it is much better to be under
dressed than overdressed in case there
is a doubt In ones mind as to what Is
the correct costume for the occasion.
Chndren's Clothes.
Children should be clothed so that
they are absolutely unconscious Of their
clothing. This means that the gar
ments must be simple, comfortable and
made of a material that Is not easily
spoiled. A child who Is overdressed
in extravagant, fussy- or faddish cloth
ing is apt to think too much about
clothes and to become snobbish and
affected. One who Is oddly or unat-
tractiyeiy dressed is self-conscious.
Undergarmerts need even more care
full consideration for a child than for
an adult. So much energy Is neces-
sary for growth that every bit possible
must be conserved. First thought
should be given to the choice of mate
rial from which the garment is made.
Clothing which comes next to the skin
must help to maintain q constant body
temperature, absorb and take care OF
perspiration, give proper ventilation 70
the skin, and can be readily cleaned.
made as q union garment, whether 1t
is knit or made Of muslin. There are
a number Of simple patterns for COM
bination muslin undergarnengs. Sleep
ing garments are better made as one
piece pajamas, with feet attached for
Winter. These keep the child entirely
covered and are q better protection
They may be made OF cotton flannel,
muslin. or wash flannel For Summer
the same type Of garment, without Ieet
and made of a thinner material. such
as cambria, nainsooE, longcloth OF
lawn may be used.
It is not only advisable but economical
to provide child with rain cutfit. This
should consist Of rubberized or era
venette coat or cape, hat or cap, ano
rubbers and umbrella. This outft VIII
soon pay for itself in the protection
1t affords the clothing, even II healSn
is not considered. A satisfactory outhl
may often be made from discarded
stitch with fine needle, and, II neces-
sary, tape the seams with adhesive
tape Rubber goods deteriorate very
rapidly in heat and strong sunlight
For this reason raincoatS and rupDerS
should be kept In cool, dark place
Rubber shoes should be stuffed WITH
soft tissue paper. II two thicknesses
of rubber are likely to stick together
dust with talcum powder.
Children's leather shoes need specia
thought and care. Buy q good quality
and be sure that they ut the cnildi
feet. This means that the inside linz
of the sole should be straight, that
the heel and irstep should fit snugly
that there Is enough room for the toes
and that they are one-half to three
fourths of an inch longer than the biz
toe,
on is necessary to keep shoe leather
soft, pliable and waterproof. ANY gooC
reliable shoe paste frequently applied
will keep the leather in good CONDITION
and insure longer wear. Apply tht
stockings make good cloths for polish
ing. Rub vigorously. To preserve tnei
shape, shoes should be kept on sho'
| trees every night and at other time
when not being worn.
Buy a standard grade of stockings
| for children, as a good quality VII
usually wear longer and keep the colo
better than the less expensive variety
Stockings wear better II signify longel
than the foot, but they must fit right
! otherwise a good fitting OF the shoe
cannot be expected. Too short stock
| ing Is Just as uncomfortable and JUS
as injurious as too short a shoe.
The manner Of putting on and re
moving stockings will increase tn
wearing qualities. They should b.
rolled from top downward when being
removed. When putting on, slip care
fully over thu foot part first. adjustin!
4, toe and heel TO fitting position. Then
| gathering the leg portion together witt
both hands, gently pull 1t up withou
strain on threads in any portion. Sex
that the seam lies along the center
back line Of the leg. Stockings shoulC
be darned as soon as thin places begir
| to appear. Their wear may be pro.
lcnged by quick repairing. Thin place.
can be strengthened by the use Of q
slanting darning stitch.