davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Net Blouses New-Handkerchi Yokes and
Cap Sleeves Used Overblouses Are Fea.
tured by Molyneux and Vionnet.

q few Of these blouses have q straight
sleeve ending halfway to the elbow.
most Of them are sleeveless The bias
cutting is emphasized by the stitching
which marks the bands of which they
are made. Chanel loosens the biaSs
bands to make breast pockets and little,
ones below the belt line, something's
using both types on the same blouse
The effect Is very, very smart, and not
In the least bulky.
MOLYNEUx goes in definitely for thes
A'A overblouse. Sometimes he ends,
these at the hipbone in the classic two
piece pull-over effect which he has res
Vved, and makes them Of the same
material as the skirt At other times he.
ends tie blouse at the waistline, or just
above the hipbone, and makes it In a.
color which contrasts with the skirt.
and jacket. In either event these blouses7
always are finished with interesting
little edgings, varying all the way from.
fringes through looped patterns made
Of narrow bands of the material, fine
stitching and even tiny appliques Of
the fabric.
Vionnet shows several effective satin
warehouses, particularly those in white
with block skirts. These, like most
Vionnet things, are cut on the bias, and
have that almost flat flare which Is so
charming. Very often there Is a scarf
tie, either in the center front or back
or perhaps in one-sided effect. Other
sleeveless blouses at this house have q
draped kerchief neckline In front, with,
the front extending an inch or two
beyond the shoulder seams and but,
toned at one side with four or five.
small buttons covered with the material
Of the blouse.
Plaid taffeta Is used by q number Of
houses for waisteoatS and for blouseS,
shows outside the collarless jacket
Everywhere, too, one sees the doubles
breasted overjacket, slightly draped over
o belt at the normal waiStline. These
are almost always IN o contrasting color.
to the suits. D. L. NJ.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Fashions and Weight

no two fat women are proportioned pre-
cisely alike, so the pitfalls Of the new
fashions are never precisely the same.
Usually there is as much good material
to be chosen from the new mode as the
old and at present we are convinced
that the new silhouette is better suited
to women of generous build than the
long-waisted, straight-lined silhouette TO
which they are inclined to cling.
+ 4
THE new sleeve fashions ought GER
= tainly to be welcomed by larger
women with enthusiasm, for sleeveless
dresses never were flattering to women
with large arms. Every one knows that
stout women usually have nice hands
smoother, whittier and better shaped
than those of their angular sisters-and
the new touch Of lingerie at the wrist
sets of lovely hands to great advantage.
Short sleeves that are somewhat full
have another advantage to the woman
whose hips and waist are not so slender
as she might wish.
From the wide variety Of fashionable
necklineS from which we have to
choose at present-those of a narrow
V-outline or q deep u are usually most
favorable. The new collarless or fat
collared suits and coats are also help
full, since they do not shorten the neck.
It is hard to convince most of our
plump sisters, nieces, cousins and aunts
that the higher, normal waistline is
really q better arrangement than the
slightly longer waistline. All we can
do is to insist on their trying on one
Of the newer dresses over one of the
new, we'll shaped foundation garments,
which bring out the natural slender
ness Of the waistline without adding at
all to the girth below the waist.
X r = =
THE new hats also have advantages,
as they permit more Of the face and
neck to be shown, thus giving a longer
line above the shoulders. And many Of
the new irregularly shaped, profile hats
are very much more becoming to plump
faces than to lean ones.
Even the colors that fashion offers
this seasan have their advantages. The
new three color scheme, combining a
dark tone, q light neutral tone and a
brighter color-black, gray and blue,
navy blue, gray and yellow, for instance
may be used to advantage. And the
new two-toned prints, showing small
light figures on a dark background, are
certainly preferable to multi-colored
larger floral designs that are less often
seen this season than formerly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Dress With Short Matching Jacket Is an I'm
portant Fashion; Grosgrain Silk and White
Pique Replace Fur on Collars and Cuffs.

with no fastening, and others that are
held by belts.
Amplihcations Of the dress with the
jacket are seen in dark dresses with
contrasting coats.
In discoursing on jackets, mention
must be made of those with very short
sleeves for sport, and here color con-
trast Is at its best. Coral-colored
jackets Of smooth cloth are worn with
dresses Of loosely woven white wooden,
or one Of brown suede cloth belted with
scarlet is worn with a scarlet dress.
This contrast Of two wooden fabrics, or
silk and wooden, in one costume also
Is highlight Of style.
SLEEVELESS or very short sleeved aft
ernoon dresses have long-sleeyed
bolero jackets, Transforming them from
luncheon or informal dinner dresses
into street costumes. They do for these
dresses just what the so-called cocktail
jacket did for the dinner dress q few
seasons ago., In the current version the
jacket converts the luncheon or in
formal dinner dress into a street cos
tune
Little jackets are to play an i'm
portant part in the evening mode. Paris
Is sending US many Of them, mostly of
silk and unlined. Colorful wiSpy bits of
things they are, but New York had
developed the idea long before the Paris
Spring openings, and we reported them
on these fashion pages last Winter as
worn by smartly dressed women in the
audiences Of important theatrical first
nights.
Hats with tiny quilts not more than
inches long, suede turbans and
brimmed models Of transparent straw,
and a little French toque that looks
ike an abbreviated snowshoeing cap
or an enlarged bell, all are among good
fashions.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12

SIMPLICITY has deserted underwear.
~ The trend of the frock has estab-
lished the trend Of the clothes to be
worn under it. We are coming into an
era where the ideal, from the well
dressed woman's point Of view, as well
as the lingerie makers, is for each dress
TO have its own set of underclothes.
Not only to assist in making the dress
lit better By having the under layers cut
on the same lines, nut from the es-
thetic point of color this is desirable.
Carrying this ensemble idea step
farther, the same material is used for
underwear as for frocks. This explains
the new shorts and brassieres in light
colored linens to match the linen dresses
and suits occupying such large place
in Spring styles. Crepes, crepe satins
and even pongees and standings are
utilized in the same way. To wear with
silk and wool frocks the same idea Is
carried out by using for the underwear
a silk that stimulates the wool in finish,
made possible by the vogue Of initiating
all sorts Of materials by others.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12

w re have known for weeks what
n styles would be important in
wv the Spring parade. We have
seen the choice Of well
dressed New Workers at smart
social functions. And we are impressed
that fashions for daytime are practical
The picturesque is reserved for evening
Among church-going clothes the long
furleSs coat is important. When fur
collars are used they are Of new types,
many of them taking the form Of very
small close-fltting scarfs. Your suit, too,
may be fur trimmed or without fur,
either way is smart, with the furless
suit a bit newer. This fashion brings
the fur scarf or cravat into prominence
In coats you will see many with wide
shoulders and narrow waists, very like
the guardsman's coat, belted tightly and
flaring in the skirt. You will see, too,
among smart clothes versions of the
Vicnnet coat with the fur collar that
looks like a Hawaiian lei hung about
the neck. This coat, Of course, is Of
the diagonal cut; no true Vionnet model
can escape it.
CROSGRAIN silk is taking the place
- fur as a collar and cuff trimming
on some Of the tweed coats for Spring
One finished in this way, with brown
grosgrain, is Of bronze and beige tweed
the new sheer tweed--and belted with
brown suede.
White pique is used for facing reYers
and making golfers on coats and
practical idea has been introduced In
making them snap on instead of sewing
them hard and fast
Ensembles consisting Of dress and
short coat, about hip length, are out
standing in Spring fashions as worn
in New York. In type they are the
cutaway. the lap-over and the jacket
that buttons straight up the front OF
the wrap-over type there are little coats
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12

STOOD health, a good disposition.
~ and clothes that do not detract
from either, and any woman can be
attractive" said Mile. Gabrielle Chanel
in a talk at her apartment shortly after
her arrival in America on her way to
Hollywood to make plans for the design
ing and creating Of clothes for various
motion picture stars
Chanel radiates vitality and practices
what she breaches in designing her
own clothes. What did she wear? We
judge that this is an interesting sub
ject to all women, by the number of
times we are asked this question. She
wore a typical Chanel suit of the sort
that has made her q designer to COM
mand attention the world over-the
type Of suit which may be worn with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
PARIS. April 2.

PARIS, April 2.
PLOUSES have assumed an i'm
- portance in the fashion picture that
they have not occupied since the days
Of Gibson's shirtwaist girls. They can
no longer be dismissed as something to
complete the suit" even though the suit
is one Of the two outstanding fashion
themes of the moment. They are quite
as individual and personal, indeed they
have as much individuality, as the
wearer herself
by their blouses shall We know
them might well be the watchword of
the inquiring fashionist. Every one Is
sure to have suits this Spring, and
they will be either bizarre or inimitably
chic, according to the blouses that ac-
| company them.
What makes the blouse so important
and such an individual matter Is that
there is no fool-proof method Of selec-
| ton. All types Of blouses, and those
the right suit on the right wearer, but
there Is only one perfect blouse for each
combination. The path Of selection Is
strewn with innumerable pitfalls.
MATERIALS vary from lace and
A'A double net to knitted silks and
jerseys, not to mention georgettes
satins, crepes, the whole family of
| piques, linens, crashes and light woods
Chantal has made the most fetching
Of the net blouses, of the tuck-in
variety, using a rather coarse blond net
| doubled. Yokes are definitely part OF
the picture here. and the material Is
left without ornamentation, depending
upon the cleverness of the cut for its
effect. One Of the loveliest blouses
shown has a four pointed handkerchief
yoke. with the tiniest Of cap sleeves at
tached to It. A simple looped jabot of
| the front.
Shantung, cotton or silk pique, fine
| jersey and peau DANCE are used by
| Chanel for her distinctly interesting
waistcoats, cut on the bias. Although
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
What Good Manners
Really Indicate

Good manners are not only earmarks
Of good family and good rearing. We
do not follow the laws Of etiquette
merely because we want others to think
that we have been brought up with a
certain amount Of leisure and care, that
our parents have enjoyed prosperity
and cultivation and that our ancestors
were early eolonists of the land. If
that were She reason We sought to be
well bred, then II might be affectation.
But etiquette is the system Of conduct
that has been built up, bit by bit, as
the best means Of carrying on social
intercourse. The man who has been
brought up among ill-mannered folk
does not on mingling with better bred
persons, give up eating with his knife
because he wants to delude them into
thinking that he is an aristocrat, but
because eating with the fork Is most
convenient and appropriate and If he
did not do 1t he would offend others
and attract attention to his own pc
culiarities.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
BY MARY MARSHALL.

TT is an age-old notion that plump
people are more cheerful and better
natured than thin people. II car
toonist undertakes to depict pes
sir1ist and an optimist, he quite nat
urally shows the first as lean and
gaunt sort of person, while the second
appears plump and fairly rotund.
Undoubtedly, people inclined TO be
overweight really are more cheerful and
optimistic than those who are learl-and
vet when it comes to dress and fash
ions stout women are as a rule con-
firned pessimists. They seem to be con-
vinced that the dresSmakers, as a
class, are prejudiced against them
and that fashions are always de-
signed for the very thin. They
regard all the new fashions as they
come along with an air Of melancholy
and suspicion. THAT may be becoming
to thin women" they say, but, of
course, I couldn't attempt TO wear 1t.
THIS lack Of faith in new fashions
l. very often leads to overconserva-
tisn of rather foolish sort For in
stance, at the present time many
stout women insist on having dresses
with q slightly lower than nor
NAL waistIine, so sure are they
that the new higher waistline is
unsuitable, and yet when lower waist
lines first came into fashion they chung
Just as tenaciously to the normal line
to which they were accustomed. With
the coming of short skirts they were
thoroughly convinced that they could
never wear them, but when skirts grew
longer they had their suspicious about
them, too. The straight silhouette
seemed at one time to be an obstacle in
their path, but now they are just as
skeptical about the more closely defined
silhouette.
The real fact is that every new set
of fashions has some disadvantages and
some advantages for the stout woman,
just as they have advantages and dis
advantages for the thin wdAan, but as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Brims Off and On.

One Of the Paris milllners has made
small toque-shaped hats with wide
brins that may be taken OF or put on
as you will.
A new and striking type Of costume
consists of black silk frock worn with
q white satin hip-length jacket.
Pure white stockings were worn with
pastel-colored dresses at many OF the
Southern resorts last Winter and will
probably be chosen instead of flesh
colored stockings by many women this
Summer to wear with pastel-colored
dresses as we'll as with white.
Bracelets are following in the wake
Of shorter sleeves. The newest ones are
made in slfp-on bangle style of carved
ivory. jade or composition. They are
worn either above or below the elbow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
What Eyebrows Tell.

According to the Oriental saying, If
your eyebrows are so long as to be
nearly joined, you have a large heart
and a sweet tongue. If your eyebrows
are short, you are not so sweet-tem-
pered and have a fondnesS for scandal.
Thin eyebrows belong to gloomy or sui
len people. If the hair or the eyebrows
are long you al kind-hearted ana joy
full.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Fabrics.

Tweed and silk crepe are made In
matching pattern, so that the tweed
coat may cover a dress of the same
design but of thinner texture, or a
tweed jacket suit may have match
ing crepe blouse.
White cotton pull-on gloves, heavy
and big, are now considered exceed
ingly smart for street wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Health Basis of Fashion

Disposition Contrib
ute S to Attractive
Qualities. Creator
of Clothes w h i C h
Command Attention
Radiates Vitality.
Condemns Pajamas
Outside of Home for
Formal Wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12
Lingerie for Each Dress

Made of Same Fabric
Under New Fashion
d e CT e e-Linen,
Crepe, Pongee and
Shantung Used for
Sports Underwear.
Colors of Spring.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12

Color and Of the materials Of the
this OF blue paper
sUuh a bot0 Of pdIest pink peau DANCE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-04-12

TT is an age-old notion that plump
people are more cheerful and better
natured than thin people. II car
4 tooniSt undertakes to depict a pes
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
B AYL D R HEAD.
DIES At g.

WACO, Tex, May IA GN.s0.
The career of a man who rose
from section hand to the presi.
dency of one of the largest educa.
tional institutions in the South,
west was closed today when death
claimed DR.. S. P. Brooks. 67-year.
old head of Baylor University. He
died from cancer.
His death was not unexpected
and only his unusual vitality had
kept him alive the past four days.
Doctors despaired of his life two
weeks ago and told him he had
only a few days to live. They gave
up hope Saturday night that he
would live until morning. but he
rallied and was believed to be in
somewhat better condition until
his illness took sudden turn last
night.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
ADVERTIsEMENT
A CLEAR COMPLEXION

Ruddy cheeks-sparkling eyes
most women can have. Dr.. +. NJ.
Edwards for 20 years treated scores
of women for liver and bowel all
ments. During these years he gave
his patients a substitute for calomel
made of a few well-known vegetable
ingredients. naming them DR.. Ed.
wards Olive Tablets. Know them
by their olive color.
These tablets are wonder-workers
on the liver and bowels. causing
normal action. carrying off the
waste and poisonous matter in ones
system.
If you have a pale face, sallow
look. dull eyes. pimples, coated
tongue, headaches. a listless, no
good feeling, all out of sorts. mac
tive bowels, take one of DIR. Ed
wards Olive Tablets nightly for a
time and note the pleasing results.
Thousands of women and men
take DR.. Edwards Olive Tablets
now and then to keep fit. 15c
SOC. and SOC.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
DEATHS

John e: Rurrets, s4, 2737 Devon
Alexander P. McMartin, rs. 45sa
susanne P. Crenshaw, 10, $50 Ca
Effie L. Hickman SIS, 442 New Jer-
Michael j. Ryan, 50. 1896 St. NV.
John Ringholz, 50, U. S. Naval Hos
BENJAMIN F. oliver. So Franklin
= Carolyn L. Clark, 81. 2214 Cath edral
Margaret Lands, So. sihley Hospital
- Fred G. shockney, 50. 1S7 INLAND
virginia Smith, ~, GslnnEer Hos
John Cox, %, Walter Reed General
NospitaL
Frank Kidwen, 20, Garfield Hospital.
George r. Wall. jr- 3, Georgetown
infant Of David and Lucille Lord.
. days, ,Gallinger Hospital
Nathaniel Allen, 30. st. Elizabeths
Newman Wildly, rs, Freedmens os-
James W. Reed. 20, Providence Hos
Richard Thomas, 20, Home for Aged
and Infirm.
Jack Lewis. 55. Gaminger Hospital
Mamie Taylor. 81. 1N4 NJ st. s. w.
Louise H. Cogbill, rs, 1901 Twelfth
Il. N W.
Melvina Fleming, ,, 4ss School
IT. 9. W.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
Don't Do What / Do,
DO What / Tell You

ATLANTIC CITY, N. j., May
l4.-When the safety lane for au-
tomobile tests opened here, Di.
rector of Public Safety William
S. Cuthbert gave a talk in which
he called upon motorists to aid
in decreasing accidents by keep
ing their cars always in perfect
condition. Five minutes later the
directors car failed to meet the
requirements of the safety ex-
animation.
On passing through the series
of tests, Director Cuthbert's ma
chine was found to be below the
standards in wheel alignment
and brakes. A certificate was
refused by the officials in charge
until the defects are remedied
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
BEAUTY KILLED
IN CAR CRASH

ARLINGTON. Mass, May IA
GNSO. - Mrs. Helen Mylon
Flynn, l8, of Somerville, a bride
of a month and and a former
beauty-contest winner, and John
Scott, %. of Watertown, were
killed today when the car in
which they were driving plunged
down a 30-foot embankment.
Three persons who we're riding
with them we're seriously injured,
Hugh Quigley, 81; Robert Gibson,
10, and Miss Helen Lyden, %,
all of Somerville.
Police said the car had been
stolen from the garage of Mrs.
M. Kathleen Griggs. The accident
came at the end of a chase in
which police, who were pursuing
the fleeing car, fired six shots.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
MRS. CAROLINE L. CLARK

Mrs. Caroline Lucas Clark, S.
active in local philanthropic
circles, who died yesterday at
her home, 2214 Cathedral Ave
N. W., following an illness of
Six months, was buried today
following services in the under.
taking establishment of Joseph
Gawler's Sons, 1854 Pennsylvania
ave. N. w. Burial was in Ar.
hngton Cemetery.
Mrs. Clark was the wife OF
Major Jerome Clark, U. S. A.. re,
Ired. Born in Kansas, she had
lived in Washington for several
years.
Besides her husband she is
survived by her parents, Mr.. and
Mrs. s. H. Lucas; a sister, Mrs.
Ida Durland. and two brothers,
Raymond and Elmer Lucas.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
DEATHS

REDMOND, JAMES E.-Entered Into eter-
nal life on MSMHdhay Nay SSyvoidd ii 1891
SAMme Wa9ns and an ossie r. Redmond Besides
his father and mother, he leaves to mourn
his departure five sisters. Elizabeth Red
Restrice Redmond and Bernice Redmond
and two brothers, Wayne Redmond, jr"
and Benjamin REDMOND;
Funeral services will be conducted on
THURSDAY afternoon May Il, 1881. at l
o'clock, from his late residence; 211O
The Ernest Jarvis fuTsral STrsSsT saIrGh nhS
Sis MsS late te residence. % s1Y0 Eighth St. n. W.
interment viii follow in Lincoln Me-
RUST Pr DAVID " nN176 NTon Tussasz sf1sE May lay
Rust, in the eighty.second year Of his age
Hs p FaS,. y sSs Of dhFsH a:Hnson tour
D. G.; David n Rust. of Alexandra, Va;
James s., Rust. of Washington, D. C., and
Robert n. Bust OF BraddoeE Va; i;;,r three
ford Conn.,. and Mrs. Oliver Hulme, of
England He is also survived by one
two sisters Mrs. E Rust smith and Mrs
Robert f. Pendleton. both Of Washington
Funeral services will be conducted on
O'Clock. from Christs Church. Alexandria,
Va. the Rev. William j, Morton, pastor.
officiating Interment will follow at Ivy
Hill Cemetery.
TICHER, JAMES - Passed away on
Wednesday MAY Is. 1891. at the George
Washington University Hospital. JAMES
TICHER. the beloved husband of Maggie
TicheT.
Funeral services will be conducted from
the W. W. Chambers Co. funeral home,
Fourteenth and Chaplin Streets Northwest.
on Friday afternoon. May IL. 1881. at
> O'Clock thence TO Constantine and Helen
Church Sixth and G Streets Southwest. At
2:3O o'clock Interment will follow in
GIenwood Cemetery.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
Past MGtrOns to Be
Guests at Luncheon

Past matrons of Brookland
Chapter, No. II, o. E. S., will be
entertained at luncheon next
Wednesday at the home Of Past
Matron Lennon.
Friday evening the Star Point
Society will give a play. Only
Me-" in the Brookland Masonic
Temple.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
MEDICAL SOCIETY DINNER

DR.. Karl Hinrichs, of the Ma.
tional Museum, will be honor
guest tonight at the spring ban
quet of the Medical Arts Society
at the Shoreham. DR.. William
White, head of st. Elizabeth's
Hospital. will speak.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
MONUMENTS
MARRIAGE LICENSES

Osbert Sutton Jones. %. and Eliza
beth Claire Alexander, 21 The Rev
E. A Lemoine.
Herbert MacFarlan Birch. 25, and
Frances Edythe Laws % The Rev
J !. Dimon
Samuel Damsky. 2s. New York city,
and Mary Kotz. %. Rabbi G. Silver
stone.
and Marie Edna McGinnis. ~. Balti-
more. Md The Rev. H. NJ. Hennig.
Oliver Kenneth Harris Al. and Ed
ward Keith Raltuff, Al. Judge Robert
e. Mattingly.
Milton H. Folstein "s. and Essie
Rsphelson. 90 Rabbi solomon Metz,
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
Bazaar VIII offer
AHtOnrnphed Books

About 30 books. autographed
by their authors, will be offered
for sale at the benefit garcen
party and bazaar at the Convent
of Perpetual Alteration, Fifteenth
and v Streets, Monday and Tues
day afternoons. Among the vol.
umes will be Twice Born in
Russia" by Nine. Natalia Petrova,
of Washington.
The Washington times., 1931-05-14
De MoLAY TO DANCE

Robert lie Bruce cha. er of the
Order of De Molay will give its
annual spring dance at the Ma.
tional Press Club auditorium Sat
urday at 10 p. m.