davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

CONVERSATION among women
- everywhere turns to millinery just
now. 1t is inevitable that 1t should
with hats setting the pace in advance
styles. A time of prosperity for mil
liners is advancing with the coming OF
hats requiring art and workmanship IN
their construction.
Even the dresmaker cannot talk Of
current styles without the conversation
turning to the subject of hats. for We
have entered a cycle of style when all
fashions are influenced by the hats We
wear.
What will be the future of the Second
Empire hats, the Rembrandt hat with
its pulled crown and the derby with
rolling brim? What are their chances
of success? These questions are heard
everywhere,
Meet any ocean liner docking In New
York after its trip from Havre. Cher
bourg or Southampton. and the answers
to these questions are there. Watch
well dressed women disemharking and
you will realize that the new millinery
has ceased to be matter for speeula-
ton: its future Is assured
Tiny felt hats rolling up on enc side
of the head ans tlitlIIR. over the fore
head trimmad with 0strieMntips, coque
feathers, ceeades of ribbon ana. wings
of tiny birds are the .favorites 81 the
smaFtly dFessed women arriving from
Europe. -
The new hats have angles Of Sole
that we Americans must be careful n
to hurlesqiIe. Much of their snartns
lies 10 the way they areM~orn, which
- the reverse Of last Seasons manner
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Trend Is Toward the Romantic; Modernized
Bustle Effects Featured in New Evening
Dresses; Day Dresses Show Bell Sleeves.

T@HOSE mentioning at length dur
ing the months of August and
September and those making
4 the popular week end trips at
this season of thesyear are faced
with the problem of what to buy to
supplement their wardrobes.
Influence of the so-called romantic
periods of dress is emphasized in sleeves,
especially those of short evening coats
where the fiounced sleeve is used eff
fectively.
An interesting series Of afternoon
dresses newly styled for Fall shows
sleeves widening in bell effect and
caught back into tight cuffs. This type
of dress, very simple in design, and
always IN dark colors, is accompanied
by a short lame jacket, which makes it
suitable for afternoon wear or for simple
dinners. An unsual detail on some Of
these costumes is the overseanas exactly
like those used on gloves.
Satin is q good choice for the evening
ensemble of the week-ender. II is still
of style importance. having been ep-
phaSized at the Paris openings. Con-
siderable of it is used in afternoon as
well as evening gowns.
Widened shoulder effects, we already
know, are a mark of the styles that
will carry over into 1882.
ATODERNIZED hustle effects are fea-
AFA tured on some of the new evening
gowns so handled that the draping OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

DAaIS. August S -- Dispatches from
lie Touuuet and Deauville indicate
THAT fantasy Is rife in the clothes for
beach wear For the number Of gar
naents required has been greatly en-
Iarged. II the clothes themselves have
been curtailed in size.
Not so many years ago q bathing
suit and q bath cape were all that were
REQUIRED. The bathing suit remains.
but the cape has disappeared. But long
passed are the days when hathlag
suit was that and nothing more.
Now ii must be swim suit besides
which there must be D beach suit, or
sun suit. as they are usually called
paiamaS, which are usually three-plece,
and II YOU want the ful equipment, q
slip-on frock, or suit, and shorts
The choice IN materials and design
for this most important part OF wom-
ems Summer wardrobes Is unlimited,
as is increasingly evident at every fash
ionable place
The regulation swimming suit OF fine
iersey---of either wool or silk--though
1t retains sts classical form, has in
Vulnerable styles as regards the cut
outs" contrasting bands and motifs
Suits for sun bathing are as distinct
this season from swimming suits as are
the wide short cuiottes. ankle palamas
ar the natty little skirts worn with
short sleeveless boleTos which cover
them en- route to the PLACE.
One most striking ensemble, noted
~ the pisciae At Ie Touquet was al
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Seasons New Silhouette
Present Trend Is Toward Slender and Long
Type-MilIiners Have Taken Lead With
Picturesque Elaboration A Owe
Waist.
BY MARY MARSHALL.

n YEvER was the fashion situa-
N ton more interesting than it
VI is now as we approach the
L Autumn of 1881. And whether
or not you are in whole
hearted accord with present tendencies.
and whether or not you have very
definite idea of what these tendencies
really are. you have, ! am sure, Sensed
the fact that radical changes are taking
place and that the whole tempo of the
dance of fashion has been very de-
cidedly accelerated. Styles are chang
ing more rapidly than they have at
any time since the war. and dressing
in the mode during the coming Autumn
and Winter is going to be full of thrills
and surprises.
INTERESTINGLY enough the mil
liners have taken the lead, and the
story of the new coats and dresses and
accessories is to a great extent a story
of keeping UP with the new fashion in
hats. Because there isn't any doubt
at all about the ultimate success of
the new STYLE of hats To be sure there
may be some passing objection this
Autumn. There will be well dressed
women who will refuse to wear the for
ward tilted Eugene bonnets. Possibly
there VIII be recognized reacJlOn
against them But in the end the new,
more picturesque, more studied type of
hat will win out. Because at heart we
are all Of us weary of the sort of hats
that went before Whether they COW
cred the forehead as they did a few
years ago or left it starkly bare as they
did last Autumn the most that could
be said of hats was that they were
smart and simple and easy to wear.
These new hats are coquettish, they are
even pretty, and they are varied enough
to suit any type of face They are
more elaborate and sometimes they are
not so easy to wear. They must be ad-
justed with extreme care and the hair
must be arranged with precision. Those
charming snoods or side straps that are
sometimes used to hold them in place
at the left side add to the complica-
ton, and there is even talk now of the
revival Of hat pins to keep the tilted
hats from slipping of entirely.
x
IN view of the new hat fashions one
Il thing is perfectly certain. Skirts
will remain long There is no danger
that they will be raised to the knees at
least for some time. Twelve inches
from the floor for daytime clothes. with
a slight droop at the back for many of
the afternoon dresses. while dresses for
evening touch the floor or escape it only
by an inch or two.
Remember that the silhouette ae-
cepted for Autumn is slender. Day.
time coats are full length, that is long
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

the cloth in no way broadens the figure
but rather emphasizes the slenderneSs
of the waistline. A number Of gowns
show double flounces at the center back
with the two flounces repeated at the
bottom of the skirt directly m the
center.
Black lame organdie also is good
choice Of material for the late Sum-
mer dinner dress It was shown at the
Paris openings in models with wide
skirts. their width accentuated by frills
Bodices of organdie frocks as designed
in Paris feature feather trimmings.
There Is a nice fashion for travelling
and general utility suits of lightweight
novelty jerseys that appear like tweeds.
Some have vests made like a mans
waisteoat the vests always being in a
contrasting color that blends effectively
with the suit.
SEPARATE coats that may be worn
with a number of different dresses,
while making no attempt TO match
them, have become very important.
A bomb has been thrown into the
ensemble theme with the tendency to
wear contrasting coat and dress. This
fashion makes the travel coat no longer
a part of the wardrobe to be used
upon occasions only, but practical
and useful garment at all times!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Fantasy Seen in Clothes
For Beach at lie TOuQuet

almost bsckless suit OF fine white ier
sey, with the monogram in bright scar
let matching the bands al the aecolie-
tsge and the hem of the tunic. Over
this were scarlet shorts Of generous
width at the bottom. but fitted tightly
over the hips where they buttoned ana
a short sleeveless bolero of white fan
mel with scarlet bindings.
Another swimming suit OF navy and
white Jersey had only plastron front
with wide shoulder straps extending 20
the waist In the back. For the long
rest after strenuous diving and swim
ming, this suit was covered by cream
Shantung patama outfit with real sailor
trousers snug at the hips and very
wide at the bottom. The coat carried
the regulation blue sailor collar with
white braid trimming and with en-
broidered anchor and rank on the sleeve.
An adjustable tunie with q scaileped
hem was novel In q suit Of two shades
OF blue in q silk and wool tFicot mix
ture, while a cream flannel bathing suit
had belt and embroidered motifs in
emerald green 10 match the wrap
around skirt and sleeveless Elton coat
which went over IL.
Jersey Is the favored material though
one sees also nuch linen. Flannel and
silk are seen In smaller numbers. when
the paiamag are Of the former. they
stick pretty close TO the regulation
MILDLY cut for trousers, MT IN lighter
material the less are 90 laTEes that II
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

CECOND EMPIRE Empress Eu-
genie, What do these terms, which
have recently hec0Te catehwords Of
fashion, mean to you?
One need not Of course. be student
of history to appreciate the fine points
Of fashion, but it Is we'll 70 bear in
mind that Eugene was the Spanish
boNT wife of Napoleon III, who was
Emperor OF France during the Is years
between 1852 and 1870, and that when
we speak of Empress Eugene or See
ond Empire fashions we refer to certain
styles of dress that prevailed in France
during that period and that were TO
some extent influenced by the taste
OF the charming Empress
Actually We are in no danger what
ever Of going hack To the widely hal
looming skirts and tightly laced waist
lines that were in favor during this
period Even the hats which We speak
Of quite confidently as Empress Eu-
genie" are pretty far removed from the
millinery Of the earlier period, but a
suggestion of similarity Is there, and
that is enough 70 Justify the name.
Empress Eugene undoubtedly posses
rec unusually good taste in matters OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

enough TO cover the dress skirt three
quarters or seven-eigfths length. The
pronounced flare Is q thing of the pest
but there il q GRADUAL widening OF the
skirt portion from the waistline to
the hem. Waistlines are well defined.
though only occasionally belted, and
hip1ines remain slender. Width, FULL
ness or elaboration appear above the
waistline. Wider, deeper armhole3.
deeply overlapping wrap-around clos
ing. generous collars that stand wei
away from the face, and sleeves that
are slightly full at the elbow-theSa
are characteristics Of the new fur az
cloth coats that will surely remain in
favor throughout the Autumn and
Winter.
All this accents the slenderness Of
the wsistline and hips but 1t does 1t
without distortion or exaggeration. To
be sure many women are wearing
form molding foundation garments
but there is as little danger of re-
turn of the old-time tightly laced cor
set as there was flve or ten years ago.
JACKET suits, of course, will he Inn
portant. both for Autumn and Win
ter And there are new Autumn dresses
made with matching jackets coming
Just below the waistline or in fingertip
4CDkbAs Manly Vi Tic ERCfASAl 0AC0cAAadA~
ers, however, have made their most re-
cent costumes with three quarter length
coats
Much has been said about the new
sleeves, and the dressmakers here and
in Paris are undoubtedly taking this de-
tail of dress more seriously than they
have for some time past In dresses
as well as in coats, armholss are given
considerable depth. Sleeves of pro-
nounced dolman cut are used in q num-
Der of new French dresses, and this
fashion will undoubtedly Be accepted
with enthusiasm in this country. As
usual thing the fulineSS Of the sleeve Is
greater at the elbow. In coats as well
as dresses there are three-quarter length
sleeves that show gradual flare all the
way down from the elbow, while other
sleeves are made with the elbow fullness
brought into deep cum. Short, rather
full cap sleeves are used in some of the
new dinner and late afternoon dresses.
Puff sleeves, made very short and full,
are also seen in dresses of this sort
They are especially attractive when
made of lace as complement Of black
velvet dress.
Even sweaters reflect the new mode
and are made with deeper armholes and
fuller sleeves. Sometimes the fullnsss
appears only in the region of the elbow.
sometimes it is fairly full down to a
narrow cuff, and sometimes it follows
the new leg o. mutton lines with fullness
above the elbow and q close fitting
'cuff" extending from elbow TO wrist.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Fashions of Eugene
Source of New Vogue

dress. and not infrequently defied ac-
cepted fashions in her efforts to have
clothes of q more graceful less elaborate
sort When she became Empress very
elaborate and rich silk materials were
in fashion, shot taffetats, damask reps,
gold and silver hrocadeS, deliberately
figured, broe atelles and ''moire antique"
And while the Empress wore these stiff
heavy materials in order to favor the
French silk industry she was actually
In favor Of lighter, softer fabrics-or-
candle, taTlatan, crepe, gauze, muslin
and barege.
During Engenies reign sleeves and
skirts were both of such enormous
proportions that coats were out of the
question with the result that shawls
came into favor as well as a variety
OF mantillas or half cloakS that might
be worn over the bouffant dress with
out difficulty
Little by little during the reign OF
Eugene, fashions changed ana skirts
became a trifie less boufiant. Skirts
became a trife shorter and sleeves be-
came less unwieldy. Trains and TUNES
came into fashion, and by 1857, three
years before the END Of Eugenie's reign,
the crinnline had finally disappeared
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Leisurely Choice of Hats

of wearing hats. One point of the brim
must descend over one eye. The fore
couture exposed on the left side where
the hair must be waved and curled
preferably in a backward direction. The
hair should be arranged in numerous
nice little cuTis to Be very smart.
A hue and cry that the average
woman cannot wear the millinery OF
today already has been raised. But
with all its adaptations for both young
and old and the skill your milli1ar
should bring to the fitting of the hat
there is no reason Why every woman
SHOULD not be smartly HATED.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

top of the head and down at the sides,
as well as the more familiar clips which
come In pairs to be worn at either side
of the head.
While many wemen chose less ex-
pensive hair ornaments there is . grow
ing tendency to include hair clips
smeng such ornaments as rings and
necklaces, which should if possible have
intrinsic as well as mere superficial
merit Women who can afford such
Injuries like 10 have their evening hair
ornaments set with jewels TO match the
necklace or bracelets.
One OF the newest bits Of Jewelry
seen IN Paris Is q gemned Clasp nm.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

which looks precisely like a very large
safety pin-fully inches long, usually
set with diamonds or other brilliant
stones. And it is worn as a brooch at
the front closing of the bodice or blouse.
Narrow bracelets wern in groups of
half . dozen are much seen At the
Summer resorts
The bracelets chosen for this purpose
may be of the most inexpensive sort. or
they may be platinum. with enameled
design and color superimposed
Whether the vogue at smart Summer
resorts for jeweied slipper heels viii
mean ieweled slipper heels for Autumn
or not. nobody knows, Everybody
knows, however, that black satin slip
perx will probably folieW the general
fashion treNd that gives first place 20
thar Sahtic.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Jewelry Is Much
Worn in Paris

WITH the new. more feminine mode
81 arranging the hair there has
come a revived interest in ornamental
hair ornaments. These are especially
attractive for evening wear when they
are usually studded with Jewels. real or
imitation. There are hair combs set
with gems TO be worn at the back Of
the head by the woman who wears her
hair in q low claignon 3 There are jew
eled handeaux that are worn across the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Bridal Wells

Some Of the loveliest brides Of the
Summer have worn tIiile wells with q
band of lace along the edge that frames
the face. The ven is pulled down ct
each side Of the face, over the ears, to
form a sort Of cap. And where it IL
gathered the grange blossoms are fas-
tened.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

takes a careful look to be sure they are
not skirts.
The sou'wester type o. hat is gain
ing great popularity. In blue linen,
with the front turned back, while the
back OF the brim rested on the shoul-
GERS, It accompanied a matching pa
jana outfit with white jersey blouse.
The smartest of the sun suits are
IN two-color effects in knotted tricot,
with very abbreviated shorts and IN
genlous decollette so that they are very
little, indeed. Flat, round sailor caps
are the favorites with these outfits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Raglan Sleeves

Fine ribbed velvet is used for Autumn
street froeks They are made with deep
cut raglan sleeves. And these sleeves
are comfortable, because they are loase
around the aFmheie, Rnd So aEalRpt
pEct It to be-.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16

In the middle Of the eighteenth CEN
tairy there were "a different kinda Of
WIGS In use.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-16
Fashion Gable.

g.
HAN features
~ short suits and matching hats
silhouette with hustle backs also tiny single and double pun
satns velvet muslin Long velvet
evening
a marocain
that looks shred all corduroy wen as corduroy
pillow ribbons rolled
have trains which become classic skirt
subtle definite influence of 1850 Drop
often combined
semb lead Much velvet for afternoon and evening NUNS
Manboher launches dinner ensemble for eakeaes long
skirts
or
sihouete including tight bodices
Tiny ru Of the eighties crnones in lace and tule Deoetag
Al coats bttond Day colors brown red violet and black with
shirred
barrel
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25
MOTOR YACHT
BLOWS UP;FOUR
HURT SERIOUSLY
Another Party Narrowly
Misses Death When
Boat Sinks.

~ CutteQ RreSF
CHICAGO, June 25.-Three men
and woman narrowly escaped
death and four other men were in
hospitals today as the result of two
spectacular explosions and fires on
Lake Michigan motor craft.
The four men injured were abroad
the modern pleasure yacht Ken
kora when a violent explosion
rocked 1t from end to end and
caused damage estimated at from
$4,000 to 100000.
Ralph Jasperson, ship cook. was
most seriously hurt. He suffered
serious burns. Others hurt were
Captain Leonard B. Clark, Steward
John Wartell and Austin jacobson.
a federal custodian standing on the
docks nearby was thrown into the
river.
The second lake accident per-
maps was more spectacular, but not
as serious. Three men and wom-
an were aboard a speedboat when
1t caught fire less than a quarter
mile on shore from the Edgewater
Beach hotel, where several thou
sond persons were dancing on the
boardwalk.
The burning boat could be seen
plainly by the dancers and all its
occupants we're seen to Jump into
the lake. Led by two girls, a rescue
party went out from the boardwalk,
rescued the four persons floating
about in the lake, and carried them
back to safety as the speedboat
burned and went down.
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25
HYDE PRAISES
INDIANA CROPS
IN TALKS HERE
Bankers, Business Men
Hear Farm Chief; Speaks
Again Tonight.

Secretary of Agriculture Arthur
NJ. Hyde spoke at noon today at
the Mcfarland farm south Of In
dianapoIs, following a dinner
served to more than 500 persons
on the annual banker business
mems agricultural tour.
He praised the Indiana crops
which are larger than they have
been for years.
Balance Of production with con-
sumption, not only in individual
states, but in the world market
must be brought about" Hyde said.
I'm the past the theory was to
build up more farms to increase
production. Now this must be dis
carded for a balanced program.
Governor Harry e. Leslie intro
duced the speaker.
A meeting of Indiana business
men and farmers will be held at
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25

Times to help her locate q home for
her puppy.
Any boy or girl who would like
to care for the dog may have '.Fe-
lecia," by writing to Jean Darling
in care of The Times, explaining
why they would ike to have this
puppy and what kind of a home
they are willing to offer it.
The age of the writer also is very
important and should be included
in the letter written TO The Times.
Jean Darling asks that all let
ters be addressed to her at The
Times and that on Friday evening
at the o'clock performance she
will announce from the Lyric stage
who is to receive Felicia" It is
asked that all communications con-
tain the names and addresses Of
the senders.
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25

the state Playground tonight with
Secretary Hyde as speaker.
Hyde arrived this morning from
Washington, fishing pole in hand.
stopping on his trip to the west
coast. He remarked. that he wished
he still were Governor so that he
could have received one of the fish
ing sets given by Indiana at the
recent conference at French Lick.
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25
Vacation Needs

SIPS Thermos Bottle, pint. j. CSC
$3.50 Thermos Bottle, quart $1.9S
75c Bathing Caps .......... 49c
$3.50 Monarch Gallon Jug i. .98c
Csc Ponds Cold Cream -. .36c
Picnic-pak ........... .23c
Speedee Golf Balls, 3 for .$1.OO
Crushed Rose Tale, lb. ...... .19c
SIPS Flashlight .96c
SOC Unguentine .............4 2c
4Oc Sun Glasses ...........a.29c
SIPS B & B First Aid Kits. .9Sc
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25
CHILDREN: Win
JEANS PUPPY
Fox Terrier Goes to Best
Letter Writer.

What thrill awaits some Indian
apolis boy or girl. Jean Darling
that little blond "vamp" Of the Our
Gang movie kids, who is making a
personal appearance at the Lyric
this week, is going to give some To-
cal boy or a girl a wire-haired fox
terrier puppy.
The dog was presented to Miss
Darling by an ardent adnlirer short
ly before she came to Indianapolis.
It is quite difficult for her to care
for the puppy while on tour so Miss
Darling has arranged with The
The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-06-25
FRIED TO THE RESCUE
Takes Liner Off Course to Pick Up
Ill Sailor from Freighter.

By Unfted Press
NEW YORK, June 25.-Captain
George R. Fried, commander of the
liner George Washington, added an
other to his list Of mercifu1 deeds
on the sea Tuesday night when he
took his ship of her course and took
aboard an Ill seaman, Gustav
Gronext. from the freighter Am
bridge. The George Washington ar
rives here Friday.