Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-10-18
- ALLING gowns they were termed
in the COS. but now they are
Sunday NIGHT dresses cocktail


In the 90s. but now they are
Sunday might dresses, cocktail
frocks. or little dinner dresses
according to the vocabularieS of
their wearers. Regardless of name they
are dresses of type much in demand
in American social life. Consequently
q great many of them are OF Amer
lean design.
Despite all the talk of velvets, buy
ers in New York shops report that
the materials in greatest demand for
dresses of this type are silks such as
canton crepe, crepe marocain, satins
and the so-called semi-sheer crepes,
crepe roma. crepe moravian and the
like. These materials are good used
alone. and also when combined in a
variety of ways with lace.
Black satin is of greater Importance
than might have been expected, con-
sidering the pace at which it was max
ing its way last August. One usually
expects those styles that get an early
start and run swiftly to finish early.
but satin has not proved this to be
true
Velvets are not to be ignored and
the velvets with trimmings of metal
cloth are high in favor. Worthy of
consideration. too. is the fur-trimmed
formal gown. but that this combina
ton has been seen to such an extent
in the semi-formal gown and the tai
lored velvet dress may In part explain
the reason that dresses for luncheon,
bridge and late afternoon affairs in
combinations Of silk and lace are pre-
ferred by many.
SLEEVES are of extreme Importance
~ 1t seems that every type of sleeve
has been introduced into the afternoon
dress. which is, after all. very good
place for the large and fanciful sleeve
Tucks, tiers, ruffles and puffs. all are
In evidence, and invariably there is
fullness. The placing of the fullness
style importance. It may be ~ at the the
wrist. the elbow or the shoulder.
UnderSleeveS offer opportunity to
Introduce color contrasts and various
lacy lingerie effects which have been
fully utilized by designers.
1t is surprising to see the number
OF women who remain faithful to black
in season when there has been so
much talk Of color Black is most in
demand they told us at one of Fifth
avenues smart shops, followed by the
greens and the wine shades Brown is
fourth on the list for this type of dress
and there is beginning to be a demand
Tor gray and purple shades.
TT behooves the we'll dressed woman
to be ever so careful in the choice of
her hats to wear with these dresses.
AT first glance it would seem that the
very picturesque hat with swirling
ostrich plumes would be the perfect
accompaniment to the formal after
noon frock And it is true that if it
Is to be worn anywhere it should be
worn then. But these very elaborate
hats have been much overdone this
season. one sees them in the subway
at $50 in the morning and worn with
wool sports frocks at lunch time. And.
having seen them thus. the smartest
women are dropping them from the
list of costume possibilities and buving
instead hats of more tailored type. but
formal because they are made of
lustrous. expensive looking fabrics and
trimmed d1screetly with ribbon bows
with tiny tightly curled ostrich tips or
with veil which troops bewitchinglv
over the eyes. Thus while the perfect
nat to wear with the formal dress is
entirely formal too. it is not blatantly
so 1t forms an accompaniment to the
dress but never eclipses either the dress.
It's Wearer or the occasion of its wearing.
EWELRY holds an important place in
the afternoon mode in this season of
afternoon formally. Pearls are, as al
ways, in the best of taste, especially
with black dresses. But since your
handbag for formal wear is more than
likely to have silver and marcasite
clasp it is very smart to impart some
thing of the ensemble feeling to your
accessories and wear pendant of neck
lace or marcasite. The best of these
are in delicate designs. almost cob
webby in appearance and are effective
against the, dull surfaced fabrics of
which so many of the afternoon frocks
are fashioned. Marcasite bracelets and
clips are other jewelry pieces we'll liked
for afternoon wear
Suede and kid are pre-eminently the
feathers for footwear to accompany
dresses for late afternoon. Suede shoes
may rely upon an unobtrusive trim
ming note Of kidskin or patent leather,
or may have small rhinestone or mar
castle buckles. Huge cut-steel buckles
also are smart on opera pumps, and
if you like this type Of shoe. the after
noon Is the time TO wear It,
Antelope purses trimmed with silver