The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-10-09
DreSSy for
EOentS OF
Whole Dag
BY ROSETTE HARGROVE
NEA Service Writer

DARIS, Oct. 9.-Cne Of the big
i gest successes Of the fall collec-
tons is undoubtedly the fur
trimmed suit. Its appearance on
the scene of fashion is very timely,
too, as most women have not taken
very kindly to the afternoon en-
semble, despite the desperate ef-
forts Of the couturiers each sea-
son to revive them.
Apart from a very small minor
ity of women who can afford the
leisure TO do so, the others SIM
ply can not be bothered. The de-
mand today is for clothes that can
be worn right on until tea time and
still not come under the category
of sports or informal dress. Hence
the "tailleur habille," or the dressy
suit.
These jacket suits offer the added
advantage Of being able to feature
some of the newest fashion fea-
lures in restrained way.
We will undoubtedly see some
exaggerated styles this winter, but
they will be outstanding exceptions
AdaptabiIity First Essential
Most of us will wear clothes
family reminiscent Of a more ro-
mantle period, but essentially mod
ern and adapted to present-day
needs. And the new suits, with their
generous fur trimmings, can be
worn all through the day by the
smart woman without any sense of
inferiority because she has not had
time to change into something Ia
beled afternoon"
Practical to the last degree, these
news expressions of daytime styles
are nevertheless so varied that they
call for a good deal of study to
avoid mistakes. Such details of past
epochs as lego mutton sleeves,
basqued jackets, capelets, Direc-
toire collars, tiny muffs, mousque-
taire cuqs can only look effective if
very carefully handled and worn by
the right type of person.
Not Strictly Tailored
The woman with a sense OF
dress knows this, but there are
many who can not resist a fashion
feature if it is new.
Aside from the fact that the
new suits are composed of a skirt
and jacket of varying length, COM
plemented by a blouse, they are
very far removed from the strict
ly tailored clothes we know by that
name.
To begin with, most of them
sponsor large fur collars and cuffs,
almost as important as those usual
ly seen on full length coat. Lynx,
wolf and fox are seen, but the
preference seems to incline toward
the flatter pelts such as the old
times seal and, of course, broadta1l
astrakhan, ermine and all other
species of shaved furs.
Some models have boleros of fur
encrusted in the top of the jacket,
in which case the sleeves are I'M
trimmed. Others have q band of fur
hemming the jacket.
Collars Are Complicated
Fur collars are very intricate this
season. A short, stand-up collar will
feature a long, one-sided reVer that
can be worn open or made to fit the
neck snugly for extra warmth.
Nearly all the new ones are fitted
so that they set away from the face,
making a very becoming frame for
the new couture and hats.
Mostly all the Jackets Of these
new suits are belted. Their lengths
vary with the cut, but the wide
shoulders and pinched-ir waist
effect prevails, whether the coat is
straight from the waist down, or
features a basque.
Dull, wool fabrics come first in
this field, and their various weaves
are almost infinite, from the soft,
spongy, bath towel variety to the
diagonal striped and others. Plain
and corduroy cotton back velvets
are also smart, but lightweight
woods have the advantage of avoid
Ing all appearance of bulkiness.
Skirts Slightly Shorter
Skirts are wide enough to allow
for freedom of movement, usually
slightly flared all around or per-
fectly straight in front, with far
ed godet at the front, sides or the
back. They are slightly shorter
than last seasons. Pleats are COM
pletely abandoned.
Blouses are the acme of femi-
nine daintineSs and just as much
study has been devoted to their
cut, color and fabric as to the suit
itself.
Taffetas, satin, brocades, silk or
candle, chiffon and lace fashion the
very dressy models, and very fine
wool lace, wool voiles and crepe de
chine are used for the more prac-
teal blouSes.