Evening star., 1931-04-05

TINE most interesting points Of the
Vionnet collection this season
were the featuring Of long coats
Il for both afternoon and evening
wear, the number Of dark vel
vet coats shown over light colored
frocks for daytime, the evening decol-
letage with a high back and exposed
shoulders, and several evening gowns
in degrade effects, with the deep tone
at the bottom of the dress.
Long coats far outnunbered short
ones for both afternoon and evening.
Usually they were unlined and were
held in place by a narrow belt Of tho
material as the only fastening. They
were made on the usual Vionnet line,
any variation usually being shown in
the length of the sleeves, which were
either long, with q slight fullnesS at
the elbow, or short and of the cape
variety. Unlined coats of velvet or vel
veteen, usually either black or dark
blue, were shown over light dresses.
ONE ensemble had an extremely in
teresting coat. The upper part Of
it was cut on bolero lines and made
of dull French blue velvet, and the
bottom part was of midnight blue 30
dark that it seemed almost black. The
dress worn under it was in the paleSt
Of ice-blue marocain.
Evening wraps, either all in one color
or with tops In contrasting shades, were
full length and usually matched the
frccks with which they were worn.
Sometimes they were fur trimmed at
the bottom, sometimes entirely plain.
One unusual wrap had q top Of white
crepe romain and skirt Of unlined
silver lame. The sleeves and bottom
Of the wrap were bordered with beige
fox fur.
A number Of pajanas shown had
wide circular trousers. These followed
the lines Of the dresses very closely.
X X
THE preferred line for dresses was
the typical VioHnet cut, often ac-
cented by a line of hemstitching de-
scending below the breast and continu-
ing to yoke depth on the skirt. This
was usually carried around the hips to
a panel width at the back, whence It
cut back in sharp angle to the under
arm seam or to the back Of the bodice.
A bit difficult to describe, perhaps, but
unmiStakably Vionnet when seen.
Scarf belts were an outstanding nov
city for both afternoon and evening
dresses. Often these were attached to
the decolletage, either in the back or
front. When they were not used on eve
ming gowns there was usually twisted
girdle in two colorS, one matching and
the other contrasting with the color Of
the dress.
NIONNET continues to use o high
neckline in the back Of her eve
ming decolletage, sometimes split at the
center back to the watStline, and with
the shoulders exposed.
In addition to the degrade gowns
mentioned above there were evening
dresses which featured design Of dots
in different sizes, either printed, en-
broidered or made of small beads in
light colors. Usually this dotted design
was intensified around the body Of the
frock and more scattered on the skirt,
giving a very unusual effect.
An interesting daytime dress Of soft
black, wool had a separate collar of
black and green crepe knotted at the
throat and an unusual cape coat. which
gave the appearance Of being q shoulder
cape, but which was actually fastened
to belt.
A few evening dresses were shown
over the bathing suit maillot, but most
Of them had slips, ending in broad seal
lops and reaching not quite to the knee
The tops Of these were arranged with
elastic to exactly follow the unusual
necklines of the gowns with which
they were worn.