Evening star., 1931-04-05

in the world. Down its vast central
nave, as Theophile Gautier calculated,
the Cathedral of Notre Dame could walk
erect. But as we step in, out of the
white sunlight of the Sevilian morn
ing, it is some moments before we can
distinguish the vast columns, the far
dim vault, the kneeling crowd in the
nave.
Church NOtables Appear.
Candles are clustered against the
black veil of the high altar, like stars
against the night sky. The music (ano
Seville'S organ Is one of the best IN
Europe) begins, ceases. Slowly pro-
cession forms-a Sacristan with silver
staff; the Archbishop of Seville; In
robes Of violet and gold the high dignt-
taries of the church; acolytes with in
cense burners-and then the crowd. A
moving forest of palms, swaying, nod
ding, under the heavy blue veil of in
cense-Elche, come to Seville Cathe-
dral.
Round the church, slowly, magnifi-
Gently, through streams of light that
drift in through the stained-glaSS win
doWs, through shadows, to the SOUND
of iubilant music, the procession moves
Back, finally, to where 1t started; then
it stops. There is long moment OF
take their places in three pulpits; the
organ begins again and the priests in
tone the passion of Christ.
Wednesday morning-still in Seville
And in the cathedral another cere-
mony scarcely less impressive thar
that OF the Ramos-the rending Of 1.-THE
veil Of the temple"
Dramatic Scene Enacted.
sTI~ -, - Al
groined vault of the central nave, 13C
feet TO the floor, falls a white curtain
hiding the high altar. Once again the
crowd Is there, devout, silent. In front
OF the white curtain figures in purple
and gold and scarlet move like partici-
pants in some slow and ceremoniouS
tragedy. From where we are standing
300 feet from the high altar, in front
OF the chapel that houses the famous
st. Anthony of Murillo, these figures
look, in the half darkness, like small
gorgeously colored ants.
And then, as the incense drifts up
into the vault, shades are drawn over
the windows; twilight becomes night
Suddenly voice rings out, echoes mag
nificently down the great nave-"It was
almost the sixth hour, and there was
darkness over all the earth, and the
veil of the temple was rent in twain"
n TO1l dS Oh LIluDQ6Ty SCaCCdGO OF
wooden hammers-and the great white
curtain, split down the center from
floor to ceiling, is whisked away into
the darkness.
Back in the cathedral. Seville is in
darkness now. Night has fallen. But
the interior of the enormous church,
usually so full of shadows, is aflame
with light. Electric bulbs have been
strung along the vault-small, brilliant
pin-points of fire. The high altar has
been stripped of all sacred objects; be-
hind the gold grill of the Capella
Mayor a strange orchestra has gathered,
and a. choir. In front of this grill
stands the Tenebrario, the tall bronze
canuelabrum of the cathedral Is lighted
candles on its brancheS-one for each
of the Apostles, the central one for the
Virgin.
Virgin Candle Left Burning.
The ceremony begins One by one the
candles are put out-the Apostles have
deserted the Christ. Only the candle of
the Virgin burns on-a symbol of her
eternal fidelity. Quietly this is carried
round behind the high altar. Then.
and only then, from the choir and or
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