davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Old Fashions Returning

skirted ladies on their way to q party
on the roof. There Is no danger Of
very wide skirts being revived. Modern
life precludeS even q thought Of it.
In the middle Of the nineteenth CEN
fury, rich, dark colorS were the mode.
Green, deep reds, prune color and grays.
Now, looking into the dress Of the last
pretty much all over the world, We see
all these colors used once more.
Miss Cornelps dress OF deep bur-
gundy-colored silk shows the relation
ship of the subdued rich colorings OF
that period of dress to what our de-
signers are doing in color today. Be-
side the dress is wine-colored chiffon
gown seen in the audience and worn
with a velvet jacket in deeper red.
THERE is an ivory-coIored taffeta
dress worn by Henrietta Moulton-
Barrett, of the play, the sister Of Eliza
beth, and, shown beside it, dress of
ivory satin worn in the audience. The
placing of the frills on the latter dress
is very much in the nineteenth century
mood. So is the decolletage.
Plaids, in the limelight at the moment
as feature of present-day style, were
reflected in an entire dress of red and
BT6Su pld1Q BLK WOTI CHI II1C SJdBc. 4itC
Redingote, too of that period, was there.
Henrietta wore one featuring tiny
shoulder cape. :
We saw, too, a relationship between
the hairdreSsing of that time and the
coiffureS Of today. Curls, falling just to
the nape of the neck of the debutante
Of 1881 resemble Miss Cornell's hair
dressing shown in the sketch, illuStrst-
ing that Of period when hair WAS
parted in the middle, combed down on
the neck, and arranged In a mass n
ringletS.
The variety of hairdressings seen in
the audience on the opening night OF
Miss Cornelrs play was remarkable.
Several of them are illustrated here.
Especially interesting Is one with strings
of pearls woven into coronet braid.
\ \ X
SWINGING from the stage to styles
- in general, and tracing them back
to their sources, we find many other
nineteenth century hallmarkS. Ehawls
and shoulder capes, so important a part
of dress in those days, are reflected In
the new unlined evening capes.
Fancy gloves began to be Gerry I'M
portant about the middle of the nine
teenth century, that is, longer gloves.
and were talked about a lot, Just as they
are today ParaSols, such as Molyneux
is showing in Paris to match his dresses,
were important in those years, when
a lady seldom emerged from her home
for promenade or drive without her
parasol. Those were the days when toe
parasol composed Nth the fan in iru-
portance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

and inclination q spick-and-span sort
of person, willing to take pains with
every detail of your costume, black or
very dark blue looks simply dull and
dowdy.
THE regulation shades Of navy blue.
as well as Guardsman blue and
skipper blue, will be more often seen
and are not quite so exacting, though
they too, demand good grooming. There
are brighter shades of blue that may
appeal to you. There is something re-
freshing and invigorating about these
more vibrant members of the blue fam
lily, but for that very reason they are
not such a wise selection for the suit
that you intend to wear day after day
throughout the Spring and on cooler
days in Summer. Unless, OF course, you
want to be spotted as "the woman In
blue"
In spite Of the persistent effort tc
break away from black, you will still
be able to find a number OF decidedly
smart suits of this hue. And black
carefully worn is undeniably smart. Ou1
own best advice Is this: IF you have
made UP your mind to buy really In
expensive suit, don't buy a black one
How about a brown suit for Spring.
a rather warm, Autumny shade OF
brown? The idea seems absurd, and
its very absurdity has had something
to recommend it. To wear suit OF
this color in Spring is departure
from the obvious and the expected, but
several of the influential dreSsmakers
here and abroad have shown brown
suits for resort wear this Winter and
a number of smart women have worn
them with undoubted success. So II
your saleswoman offers you q new
suit of a warm cinnamon tone try IT
on and see what you think OF keying
your Spring wardrobe to this Autumnal
tone.
CONSIDER also the pros and cons
of gray, which has made its APP
pearance in most of the good collec-
tions of suits for Spring. Don't waste
your time making plans for an all
gray Spring ensemble because nothing
is more difficult than matching grays,
and nothing is much more trying than
the effect of a number of Earring grays
worn together. The gray suit this
Spring will be used as the foundation
for colored accessories and Is seen in
the company of blue, Of rose, OF green
and of yellow.
A variety of blues. Black. brown,
gray-those are the colors that you
will have to consider for that first,
practical Spring suit. Fellows, greens,
rose tones pinks, are represented In
the lighter weight suits now sold for
resort wear-prototypes Of the suits
you will be interested in several months
hence; but that is another story.
(Copyright, 1917
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Celestial Nose
Wins Approval
Is Yours a celestial nose?

Is YOURS celestial nose?
In other words, is 1t turn-up nose or,
as the French would say, a nose re
trousSe"?
One old writer on the subject Of noses
assures us that when he calls this type
of nose celestial he does not mean that
1t has any affinity with things heaven
ly, or that it is tilted heavenward in
contemplation-as eyes would be that
are turned to the sky-but that 1t B
simply turned spaceward through sheer
impertinence.
But the celestial nose has had many
admirers and, though 1t has hardly ever
been regarded as exactly beautiful, art
lists, noyelsts and poets have sung its
praises.
A French writer tells this story as a
historical fact. Solomon the Magnifi-
cent, who was Sultan of the Ottomans
just about the time that Columbus was
busy discovering the hemisphere on
which we hve-Solomon had a favorite
sultana named Roxelane and Roxelane
had a turn-up nose. She was born a
slave In Russia. The Sultan purchased
her, but she never would have become
legally married to him, and never would
have become Sultana had 1t not been that
her nose was slightly retrousse. This
afforded very pleasant relief from the
SaraSan1c hook noses and the straight
or fiat or aquiline noses possessed by the
other ladies in his haren. And so, says
the writer, the nose in France is often
called nose "a Ia Roxelane."
What does the tilted nose mean?
Some students of features say impert-
inence and inquisitivensss. One old au-
thority says that this type of nose is
contemplate in man, but not so bad
in woman, because, after all, little
impertinence is charming in a woman,
and women are all inquisitive anyway.
One never sees a tip-up nose in an
Gent Greek or Roman art, nor yet in
the works of the old masters of Italy.
However, in eighteenth-century France
artists began to depart from the old
classical traditions and a new type OF
woman came into fashion. Watteau
one Of the greatest artists Of that period
in France, went so far as to paint mod
els with retrousSe noses.
Dumas described a minor character
whom he regards as beautiful, thus
Dark hair, blue eyes and nose slight
w turned up, admirable teeth and a
complexion marbled with rose and opal
This is a type very much admired in
modern France.
Tennyson, too, admires this type OF
nose. which he speaks of in one of his
poems as Heaven tilted"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Skirts Are Cut
On Good Lines

A woman seldom chooses a suit be-
cause of the skirt. After she has per-
suaded herself, or allowed the sales
woman to persuade her, that the color
is right and has seen for herself that
the cut of the suit and the collar line
are becoming and has discovered that
some subtle note of trimming or finish
makes the suit look much more ex-
pensive than the price tag shows IL
to be, she makes her way TO the Mt
ting room, vaguely hoping that there
will be nothing wrong with the skirt
and that it won't need any compn-
Gated sort of alteration.
It is usually only after she has worn
the suit several times that she realizes
that the cut and line of the skirt are
really quite as important considera-
lions as the cut of the jacket or coat.
AS far as length goes, the woman
Of average height should wear street
suit Is inches from the ground and
a sports suit an inch shorter. The
very short woman should reduce these
figures slightly and the very tall woTn-
an may wear her skirts trif1e shorter,
so as to achieve the same general re-
lation between actual skirt length and
distance from the floor. Chanel is APP
IIlC OIA4y AhAPOA DoAAt ASASAA
dressmaker who has shown any suit
skirts shorter than this.
The new skirt should 1T closely over
the hips. Anything like a bulge In
the back below the waistline simply
won't do, even if you have made up
your mind to reduce your girth by ex-
ercise and diet. All the new suit skirts
flare slightly, but the smartest of the
new suit skirts do not ripple. The flare
is achieved by restrained goring or by
means of pleats. You will find skirts
with wide pleatS at front and back
and a slight flare in the cores at the
sides, and you will find skirts with wide
or medium width tuckS at the sides set
on to the skirt at hip depth so as to
maintain slender lines at the upper
part of the skirt. The tendency
among the best French dressmakers
seems to be to keep skirts as fiat as
possible at back and front, with flare
at the sides only, and In choosing the
suit skirt this Is an idea that you will
do well to bear in mind.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Long Jackets as
Separate Goats

BY this time you will have made i'm
portant discoveries concerning the wide
variety offered in the length of coat or
jacket. There are the trim full-length
coats that may be worn as separate
coats over a one or two piece dress If
you like, and there are long coats that
show only about an inch of the skirt
beneath. Patou of Paris has made the
wise suggestion that the long coat
worn over figured or plaid skirt or
dress should always be long enough to
cover the dress skirt completely, but
that With monotone skirt one of the
almost full-length coats may be worn.
The suit with very short jacket has
much to be said in its favor. 1t is new
and youthful and easy to wear. Some
times these short jackets are short
enough to suggest boIeros; sometimes
they extend to the waistline, and some
times they extend to the hips. Occa-
sionally they are distinctly shaped at
the waistline, with flaring peplum be-
low. Save for distinctly sports purposes,
one sees fewer belted suit jackets this
season than last.
Rough tweeds are appropriate to the
distinctly tailored type of suit The
finer wooden materials used for the
more elaborate suits are usually of dull
finish, often showing a distinct twill.
You will see fine reps, wool crepes and,
newest of ALL very silky serge that is
decidedly smart ia black or dark blue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

One dress on which tiny blossoms
appeared on a black background was
accompanied by black silk coat which
showed the favorite silhouette Of this
designer, being fitted at the waistline
and slightly longer in the back than in
the front. The coat, Of course, was
lined with the printed material.
Checked and dotted surfaces were at
tractively combined in q suit which
had a skirt of black and white checked
silk and a basque Of rose-colored silk
embroidered with tiny black dots. Over
this was worn a full-length coat
Mainbocher, a new designer, whose
clothes seem particularly suitable for
American women, also made a point OF
prints. All types Of clothes, from sports
dresses to evening gowns, were made OF
printed fabrics. and evening paJamas
depended largely for distinction on the
beauty of prints used for their very
wide trousers.
Patterned cire and patterned taffets
were used for a number OF interesting
suits with unlined coats. An amusing
dress Of printed silk had peplum Of
white pique caught at the side with
large bouquet of flowers. An afternoon
dress Of Powered georgette was trimmed
with a long handkerchief scarf at thu
neckline, knotted at the back, again al
the waistline, and again at the hips
The double cape Of beige wool WORT
with this dress was lined with tho
printed georgette.
7 ONDON TRADES, in showing col
lection which included o number o.
particularly lovely evening gowns, fea'
tured many printed designs. These
were noteworthy because, instead of th'
small patterns favored by so many o.
the designers, large, spreading figures
were used, and most effectively, an
evening gown in q gray and green all.
over design being particularly striking
This was worn with hip-length, velvet
jacket, trimmed with a tiny scarf col
lar Of mink
Tiny bows placed, with the hand OF
an artist just where they did most to
emphasize the clever cutting Of the
frock, trimmed many of the formal
clothes at Nicole CIRCUITS. Orange bows
were most effective on an ivory white
frock, with the same color used for the
hem and the facing Of the decolletage.
Bow trimming also was used on ar
evening ensemble Of brilliant green, with
q short sable-trimmed coat. This dress
was outstanding because most OF tht
formal clothes at this house were o.
plain satin in delicate coiors.
X
MO word Of these houses would be
complete without mention Of the
wedding gowns shown by Norman Hart
nell One may choose ones bridal gown
here from a variety of models. One Of
| faille silk. shown with maid OF hon.
ors costume In the same fabric, wa;
quantity old-fashioned, with puffec
| sleeves and shocking used for trim
ming A white satin gown with a very
definite basque effect was trimmed witt
an embroidery motif OF gold leaves. Ane
brides may carry purses this season. i
they follow this designers dictates, for
with a spangled wedding gown, whicf
was feature of his collection, was car
ried silver-franed purse Of light greer
to which were stitched lilies Of th'
valley.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Beige Cloves.

Beige again! Don't be misled into
thinking that we are in for another
beige era, because we are not, and any
thing of the sort would be far from
the plans of the dressmakers who have
been working SO persistently toward
more interesting use of colors than
prevailed during the long period of
beige. But the truth of the matter
is that beige-usually of somewhat
putty tone-has been revived to some
extent for Spring 1t will be used here
and there as the neutral tone in COM
bination with black or navy blue and
q bright color and beige toned gloves
will undoubtedly replace the black and
dark brown gloves that have been favor
ed for Winter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

@oLoR everywhere, printed fab
RIGS in infinite variety, quaint
bow trimmings with the dis
~ tinct flavor of the past-these
were among the interesting
features of several of the recent colec-
tons shown by Partisan designers.
At almost every dressmaking house
there was evidence that the designer
had given thought to the use of color
and to the possibilities in the combin-
ing Of unusual shades.
Normal Hartnell. the young English
man who Is famous for his evening
wedding dresses, showed many effective
evening ensembles which depended for
much Of their beauty on the colors
used in them. Dark brown and light
blue were used together with delight
full results. An evening coat of per-
yenche blue georgette, trimmed with
gray fox fur, was worn over a pink
frock, while short dark blue evening
wrap, ending at the waistline, accom-
panied dress of mulberry red, color
brought back to us this season from
the middle of the last century.
At London Trades were shown many
lightweight WOODEN costumes. Here
color contrast was seen in blouses and
skirts OF different shades or in dresses
Win one-plece euect and DOulce OF q
contrasting color TO the skirt. Unlined
coats of wool. either full length or
short, were shown with these.
4 +
1 A 8 for prints, there are enough OF
"a them everywhere to gladden. the
hearts of American women always
aithful TO this type Of material fol-
summer frocks.
Nicole circuit was particularly sue
cessful in her use OF them, making
many daytime frocks Of unusually lovely
4 printed fabrics. At this house the de-
ARns were usually small and scattered
! regular spacing over the back.
rounds.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Paris Fashions

PARIS, February 20.-The
opening of the Auteuil races on
Sunday was noteworthy for the
black suit worn with jackets
varying from waist length to hip
length. Many Of these suits had
important looking white fabric
collars and were worn with white
turbans with fine black wells and
10-button-length white gloves.
The success of Worth's brown
evening dresses, worn with match
ing suede gloves and Greek SAN
dals, at the Bal de la Couture,
was re-emphasized by their ap-
pearance at the Sunday dinner
dance at the Ritz.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
BY MARY MARSHALL.

BY MARY MARSHALL.
UC HALL or shall not buy q
That may have been the
question you asked yourself
last year or the year before,
or at this season any time within the
past 10 or IL years. You realized that
suits were useful and there were times
when they answered the purposes OF
smartneSs and convenience better than
dress and coat. You also probably
realized that the well dressed French
woman always considered little jacket
suit an essential part of the Spring
wardrobe But there was perhaps still
some doubt in your mind as to your
own personal need for this type Of COS
tune.
This year there is no question about
the necessity for buying Spring suit.
You simply must have one or two, or
possibly three, If you do things on a
generous scale. The questions that you
will ask are these: What color would
be the best choice for my first Spring
suit? Shall buy a suit with a long
coat or a hip jacket or jacket that
comes Just to the waistline? Shall /
buy skirt with matching or contrast
ing blouse and Jacket? What sort of
blouses shall wear with my new suit?
Snail decide on one OF the new Two
skirt suits? How much of a flare should
the skirt show and how long should
it be?
X X X
THE question of color is probably the
= first you will have to decide, be-
cause it Is the one that has the most
direct bearing on the Slection Of the
other articles of your wardrobe and be-
cause when you go forth to buy a
ready-made suit the first question you
are asked by the solicitouS saleswoman
will probably be one concerning color.
You will have a wide variety Of
smart suits from which to make your
selection If you have decided in favor
of blue, because the coming Spring is
going to be a decidedly blue season.
There is darker than-navy blue, If you
want something that is at the same
time sophisticated and conservative.
Many of the dreSsmakers and suitmak-
ers are promoting this very dark shade
Of blue as an alternative for black. But
remember, before you definitely decide
on a suit of this tone, that very dark
blue, like black, exacts a great deal Of
the wearer. Unless you are by nature
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

~ OMANTICISM is revived In dress
Many of the romantic features
TX in the fashions of 1881 may be
L observed in current New York
play.
Miss katharine Cornell as Elizabeth
Moulton Barrett, and her sisters, In
scenes laid in ElizabethS sitting room
/ at so Wimpole street, London, in 1915,
wears charming dresses, the details Of
which are reflected in many modern
costume in the audience. To illustrate
this we have some of the most charm
ing of, the stage costumes side by side
with dresses worn in the audience.
Where is the relationship apparent2
What are the features in dress of those
days revived by present-day designers?
The colors of those times. The drop
shoulder in evening dresses. The
tucked sleeve in daytime frocks swell
ing to puff at the wrist. The latter
type of sleeve was featured at many
of the recent Paris openings. The
white undersleeve that peeps from be-
meath the edge of the Short-sleeved coat
of this season. All these had their
origin in the middle of the nineteenth
century--the so-called crinoline period.
Details of the modes of those times
are all that have been taken, so 1t
truthfully may be said that details lead
in the 1881 mode. And, referring TO the
crinoline, that bone of style contention
of those dayS-who so bold among even
the most daring of present-day design
ers as to give it thought? The near
est approach made to it-and it is, after
all, somewhat tirnid approach-is seen
in the petticoats, lace-trimmed ones,
and white at that, revived In Paris a
few weeks ago, and even now on sale
in shops in this country.
y X x
IN the days Of the crinoline there
were fashion dissenters, as always.
And those who did ut take kindly to
this so-called fragrant folly" tempo
rized with the fiounced petticoat. It
would be ludicrous to imagine q mod
ern elevator in New York skyScraper
waiting through space several c1ircline-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Gay Petticoats

Slashed skirts, showing a gay
hued petticoat beneath them,
bring to present-day styles a dis
tinct flavor Of pre-war days.
These slashes, however, instead
of being a necessity to make a
narrow skirt practical, often ap-
pear on wide skirts. The edges
of the slash overlap so that when
the wearer is not in motion the
skirt hangs demurely without
even q hint of the gay-hued
slip. But when she moves the
brilliant contrasting silk shows.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Child's Tray.

Buy plain tin tray for 10 cents.
Decorate it by giving it a coat Of
enamel, and paste in the center q pretty
picture cut from the cover of a maya
zine, then give the entire tray, includ-
ing the picture, coat Of shellac. Chill
dren never tire of food eaten from q
tray decorated in this way.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Apple Honey.

Pare and core enough juicy apples
with good flavor to I'LL four cups Put
through the coarse part Of the meat
sugar. Simmer gently until Of the con-
sistency Of honey. then seal in glass jars
until wanted
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

American Taste Clear
ly Met by Features
of Dressmaking Col
/ lections - Quai Mt
Bow Trimmings Are
Effective Suits o f
Patterned Gre and
Figured T a fife ia -
Color Combinations
Shown by Many De-
.sieners Wedding
Gowns M ay B e
Chosen From
A m ong M a n y
Models.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

Four hundred thousand reindeer have
been killed in Alaska for food and cloth
ing, principally for the Eskimos.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

Costumes in Play With
Scenes of IS Years
Ago B e ar Strange
r e s e m b la nee to
Those in Audience
Old Colors, Frocks
With Drop Shout
ders, Tucked Sleeves
With Puffs at Wrists,
And Plaided Fabrics
Are Found Gloves
And ParasOls.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01
Suit Becomes Necessity

Autumnal Brown Is
One Smart Color,
With Gray a n d
Shades of Blue Also
Popular = Decided
ly S m art Suits in
Black Are Seen, in
Spite of Persistent
Opposition to This
Type.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

\ OMANTICISM is revived In dress.
J Many of the romantic features
in the fashions of 1881 may be
\ observed in a current New York
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-03-01

BY MARY MARSHALL.
M HALL I or shall not buy
~ suit?"
That may have been the
~ question you asked yourself
last wear or the wear before.