Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-10-02
Fats and Oils in Cooking
knowledge of Various Types Needed Daily-Rel-
ative Values Considered = Preparations
for Frying Cakes and Pastry.

cooked in them Preference should be
given to a fat which does not scorch
too readily at the temperature most
commonly used for frying Butter and
laid scorch at a lower temperature
than do beef or mutton fat and cotton
seed, peanut or cocoanut oils. For this
reason the latter fats are preferable
for deep frying. which requires a high
temperature. One cause Of difficulty
in the digestion of fried foods is that
the fat is usually overheated during
cooking and is thus decomposed into
substances Of an irritating character
For these reasons pastry and fried
foods do not belong in a child's diet
nor in that of a person with a weak
digestion, and should not be eaten
frequently nor in large amounts by
any one.
The characteristics Of a good fat for
frying medium are: First, high
smoking temperature; second, the
smoke should increase slowly; third,
the smoke should not be irritating in
character. The objections to fats that
smoke readily are the irritating odor
and the inferior quality of the fat for
further frying. Smoking is an indica-
ton of decomposition, and the fat
which decomposes most upon heating
can be used the fewest number of
times. From this last standpoint cot
tonseed products are especially de-
sirable as medium for frying Some
vegetables brown with such dificulty
that a fat of low smoking point, such
as suct or drippings, Is better to use
for sauteing or frying. Chicken fat,
bacon or other drippings add a good
flavor to meats and vegetables, but
they must be selected with care to
avoid unpleasant combinations.
In deep-fat frying an even brown
color and good flavor with the
least fat absorption makes the best
product. The color depends upon the
kind of food being cooked and upon
the fat, but more especially upon the
temperature and the time OF cooking.
The flavor varies with the kind of fat
used, although the differences are
much less than one might expect
While strongly favored fats need not
always be discarded for deep-fat fry
ing, those with little flavor are safest
for general use. Rich coughs and bat
tiers become more grease-soaked in
deep-fat frying than those containing
less shortening. and foods cooked at
too low a temperature absorb a large
amount of fat because the protecting
coating Is formed less quickly than at
higher temperature and because the
food remains in the fat for a longer
I time. DoughnutS made without short
ening absorb much less fat than those
in which shortening is used.
Oils for Dressings.
Olive oil gives, in all cases except in
fried foods, very pronounced flavor.
Thus, for salad dressing, it is chiefly
recommended. Recipes for cooked
salad dressing usually call for butter
or olive oil, but oleomargarine can easily
be used. Chicken or bacon fat may
be used with a vegetable or a meat
salad. If cooked salad dressing is
made in large quantities End used from
time to time for different salads, but
ter CT olccmarga-ine IS best because of
tho fisvor
l'or Fr-nch dressing olive oil is best.
Substituting WeSson oil or similar oil
for one-half of the olive oil will en-
able one to secure the flavor Of the
more expensive product and at the
same time lower the cost. II you do
not have olive oil at hand mayonnaise
dressing may be made with washed
and melted butter or oleomargarine.
Half olive oil and half washed or I'M
sailed butter will give a dressing Of
good flavor and consistency
DOUghs and BatterS.
Any fat except olive oil can be used
in griddle cakes, but the griddle should
be creased with a fat having little
flavor. Butter gives the best flavor
for mullins and the greatest tender
ness. but oleomargarine or chicken fat
produces an almost identical product
The same fats may be used for bis
cults or for mullins but more salt
should be added. When making bis
cults or shortcakes. to secure the best
texture, oils when used shbuld BE- mixed
with the liquid rather than with the
flour
Cakes and Pastry.
Although care is needed in the Sc
lection of the fat used in cake. COM
! paratively large choice of fats is pos
sible because the flavor is often dis
guised by the use Of extracts. spices or
chocolate. The most tender cake. how
ever, is made with butter. If two diff
ferent cakes are made from the same
recipe and with the same method Of