Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-08-23
Unusual Effects
Shown in Old Styles

T UCIEN LELoNG shows for the
coming Fall and Winter q collec-
ton of clothes reminiscent Of bygone
periods Of fashion. This is apparent in
details and trimmings Of all sorts
There are no bustles, crinolines or
farthingales In this collection, but he
has managed to convey informal dress
impressions Of the styles current during
the periods when these were features
of fashion
Elongated lines have been revived
largely by means Of the hobble effect
ct the knees. The day skirts do not
release their fullness above the knees
and his formal cocktail, dinner and
evening dresses although fun ut the
bottom and often with trains, are 20
tight around the knees that the manne-
gums were forced to lift their skirts
to go up the fight Of steps at the end
OF the show room.
Startling effects In the way Of color
contrasts were obtained by inserting
back panels OF q contrasting tone in
evening dresses. A dress or wtne-coi-
ored velvet had a panel Of sky blue
satin, while panel OF black velvet was
used in . gown Of white brocade. A
favorite color combination was light
blue with bottle green. This was no.
ticeable in evening dresses with con-
trasting tops.
Black and white were outstanding
in the collection, with quantities Of
black velvet used with ermine trim
mings. One evening dress had little
bows Of black MORE on q band OF err
mine that outlined the decolIetage. A
lame frock had q three-i1ch band Of
ermine outlining a drop shoulder.
Day clothes we're considerably more
restrained. A favorite color combina-
ton was copper OF rust with brown.
There were q number of bands In con-
trasting color, sometimes ending In
bows, again crossed ends, above the ell
bows OF long sleeves. A looped bodice
trimming, soft folds which slipped
through the center bodice In q slit in
day clothes, became loops three inches
across "a trim the deep decolletage Of
an evening dress or to be used on the
hips of a cocktail dress
The day silhouette was exceedingly
slender, with sleeves and necklines sim
pie. and coats varying from jackets to
full length, usually fastening the wrap
around by q separate belt, which held
1t In place. However, one dark red coat
Of corduroy wool, slimly fitted all
around, had O separate front eewed in
which buttoned all the way down
Quantities Of velvet some lame, lace
and net for evening and formal after
moons, soft woods satins, crepes and
yelvets for daytime we're the fabrics Of
this collection.
The collection OF Jane Regny showed
a definite departure from any before
offered at this house in the carefully
restrained fantasy which marked all
types of sports clothes. as well as the
tailored street dresses and the evening
gowns.
Reds and browns followed blacks in
Importance in the collection, although
there were an interesting number OF
puppies. blues and blue-purples, as well
as green's Gray was noticeable for
street wear.
Cloth coats showed a new type of fur
trimming in the form of solid backs
and fronts Of fur reaching to the waist
line. One OF the coats had a remov-
able fur bolero, most practical nov
/ city. There was a restrained use OF
/ fur in the form Of small collars and
I pointed cuffs
Unusual Innings were seen In eve
+, ming wraps, One, Of brilliant black
! satin, had lining formed OF narrow
/ ruhies OF pink mousseline The trim
ming OF this coat was as unusual as
| the lining. A collar OF black lynx
wound down one arm to make q mud.
| Rows OF pink marabou made another
colored velvet.
/ Besides the novelty corduroy Jersey,
/ the diagonal materials appeared quite
generally throughout the collection,
both IN woods and satin-striped crepes.