davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Importance Given
Muffs at Wedding
PARTICULAR fashion interest wa

PARTICULAR fashion interest was
naturally attracted to the wedding
of Mile. Helen Worth, early in October,
to M. j. Iscovesco. since every one
wished to see the new mode created for
her by her father, Jacques Worth. And
the interest was more than rewarded.
The brides dress was of cream crepe
satin, the skirt. ornamented almost to
the hips with narrow ruf1es, sweeping
into a train, with all the fullness held
to the back. Her veil of white tulle
was held by snug cap of seed pearls
quet, she carried muff of orange
blossoms.
Her attendants, all small cousins,
wore full-length period dresses of silk
organdie with crinoline skirts, short
Eton jackets of matching silk faille, and
severe little pill-box hats. banded at the
lower edge, and with fat black stream
erS. They carried muffs of pink organ
die ornamented with rows of artificial
flowers and tiny flower trimmed corrlu-
eopias of organdie for the Offering to
the poor The little boys wore dress
suits of black broadcloth with pink
boutonniereS.
The brides mother wore beige lace
with tiny touches of emerald green, and
also carried a muff.
Muffs we're prominent in the cos
TUNES of the guests, as we'll as those of
the family party. A pelerine of white
ermine and a small barrel muff COM
pleted black faille outfit with a small
velvet hat. A powder blue georgette,
with a short hip-length jacket of
brighter blue velvet and hat to match
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Quaintness Part
OF New Mode

RE1NG well dressed in 1926 or 1927
or whereabouts was one thing. Be-
ing we'll dressed in 1881 is quite
another proposition. With the simple
fashions that prevailed for so many
years after the war it was far simpler
matter to select dresses and hats and
accessories of the right sort and very
much easier matter to wear them than
1t is now that the so-called more femi-
nine fashions have returned to favor
Then all you had to do was to be
strictly up to date, now you must be
up to date, OF course, but a little out
of date besides in order to give your
costume the suggestion of ouaintness
that is approved. You must of course
be thoroughly twentieth century. but
in order to achieve the look of mod
ernity approved. for the Autumn and
Winter of 1891 and 1882 you must also
look just little nineteenth century be-
sides.
fortunately the dressmakers have
given us wide variety of styles from
which to choose. Fortunately, because
the wide variety makes it possible for
every enc to find some sort of dress
and hat and wrap that is becoming.
There are, however, certain disadvan-
tages in this wide latitude of choice.
One of the smart new accessories
that would be all out of place with some
clothes and absolutely right with others
is the reticule, lovely handbag from
Paris, designed specially to wear with
clothes OF the Empress Eugene or Vic
torian inspiration. 1t is made of the
finest suede and is IN altogether attrac-
tive little bag.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Painted Walls
For Background

ONCE upon time you might have
~ felt a distinct prejudice about
having the walls of your living room
covered with oil-r1ixed paint. Nova
days that sort of finish is often effec-
lively used.
Painted walls can now be finished
so that the colors are soft and glowing.
rather than harsh and shiny. And
that makes all the difference in the
world Cream or gray or one Of the
yellower shades is perhaps the most
effective color for oil-painted walls,
though various shades of green are
also effective, and are used now that
green is again in high favor for an in
terror color. Decorators use green in
one of its many lovely shades for win
dow curtains and other draperies as
well as for walls.
For the nursery painted wall with
stenciled border of animals is very
attractive. The oil-paint finish can, of
course, be washed without injury, and
so Is especially suitable for a child's
room.
The new wall papers this year are
more attractive than ever, so If you
don't want your walls f1at-finish paint,
you can have them charmingly done in
papers. Many of the papers have a
sort of checked background, sometimes
suggested by faded and indiStinctly
broken lines. sometimes suggested by
stiff little flowers, sometimes quite bla-
family marked out in heavier design.
In the squares between these crossing
lines there is floral design.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Coat-Dresses Emphasized
in MO1yneux Collection

dresses practical for indoor as well as
street wear.
While there is still much green in
the collection, it in no way takes the
predominant place it occupied in the
August collection, surrendering that to
black. There is also good deal OF
brown in the darker shades and a
number of brown mixtures. Afternoon
dresses and ensembles often have an
exceedingly short sleeve, reaching only
half way to the elbow.
A new variety of bagheera velvet is
prominent for this type of dress. 1t Is
finer in weave than the first of theGe
new velvets and does not, we are told,
have the unfortunate tendency to pull,
which marked the earlier efforts in this
mat velvet.
A new movement in both afternoon
and evening clothes is the insertion Of
fan-pleated godets at various levelC to
give fullness in what would otherwise
be a sheath garment. Several two
TERED skirts we're especially charming
with this detail. A black princess model
which had cleverly inserted godets from
the hip down, marked by stiffening,
and flame colored georgette We'd with
the light hyacinth blues and the IN
credibly lovely shade of lavender which
seems unique to the house. D. L. M.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
BY MARY MARSHALL.
EwELRY comes and jewelry goes,

YEwELRY comes and jewelry goes,
and each year there are same
nesses and differences. Some
~ women wear jewelrv as they
have, more or less regardless OF
the changing mode. Some women are
constantly asking fashion questions
about this detail and that.
Are necklace and bracelet worn to-
gether?" is one question. Sometimes
But sometimes smarter effect can be
gained by wearing one without the
other.
Are pearls still in fashion," is an
other perennial question from readers.
and the perennial answer seems to be
Yes" Pearls manage to remain in
good repute, though, of course, the very
large pearls are not often seen. and
pearls of any sort are better with an
evening dress or formal afternoon dress
than with suit or daytime dress.
* X
MANY Of the new pearl necklaces
AVA are made with three strands joined
in the clasp at the back, in graduated
lengths at the front. There are also
five-strand pearl necklaces to wear with
a deep decolletage and there are other
pearl necklaces slowing the combina-
ton Of two thref strand arrangements,
while the space between the two strands
of three is somewhat wider than the
space between the strands in each
group.
The three strand idea is also carried
out in more substantial necklaces for
daytime wear Carved wooden beads
to wear with the cloth suit or cress are
arranged in three strands of graduated
length. There are short three-strand
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Jewelry for New Dress
Pearls Are Smaller in New Chains-Three
Strands Found in Many New Necklaces.
Gold for Daytime Wear

necklaces of gold and silver beads-twn
strands of gold beads with a silver
strand between. or two strands Of sill
yer with gold between. Sometimes
wood and gold are used together, eithe-
in single or three-strand type or
necklace. .
Simple gold jewelry is often chosen
for the cloth daytime dress. The beads
or links are sometimes Interestingly de-
signed. They are fairly heavy, but not
so heavy as to appear barbaric. The
more elaborate sort of filigree gold work
is chosen to go with the formal evening
or afternoon dress. To wear with black
velvet, either fer afternoon or evening.
there are necklaces showing combina-
ton of gold and onyx, sometimes COM
bined with pearls.
BRACELETS accompany some Of the
- new necklaces. And it Is a good
rule to follow to wear bracelets to match
your necklace or else bracelets without
noon dress Of pronounced Victorian
suggestion matching bracelets are some
times worn, che on either wrist. Plain
metal or composition is sometimes worn
in profusiCn-aS many as seven on one
arm, and the newest idea is to wear
them on both arms. The new sleeves
that are made with puff above the
elbow and close fitted cuffs below may
be worn with these hoops or bangles,
and sometimes the long, close fitting
cuff Is worn with single bangle brace
let at each wrist For bracelets this
season may be worn either on bare
arms or with long sleeves, providing
| they do not interfere with the line or
trimming of the sleeve
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Shoes Following
Trend in Dress

EHOES have become highly specialized
~ this Fall asserting themselves, II
Kou please. as much as to say they Will
not be outdone by all this Empress
Eugene" fluster the hats have created.
So. more than ever we see shoes des-
tined to be called distinct types
Here are a few of the most outStand-
ing ones that caught the eye about
town. First and oremost-because 1t
Is the most important fashion in clothes
are the Smartly tailored shoes created
Nor the lightweight woolens. In this
group you may have your choice OF De-
Ding smartly tailored-debonair, I be-
Eeve, is the best name for it-and trot,
trot, trot in a most sanely sensible but
chic pair of high-cut oxfords in COM
bination of suede and alligator. Or,
you may don with that new derby hat
the smartest combination OF the sea-
Son-an opera pump of black or brown
pin seal with the classic wing tip and
trim of matching calf Or you may De
proverbially feminine and daintily tread
the highways and byways in a high
heeled one-eyelet tie of suede with pat
white piping. you may wear this
oressier type this season because many
OF these new woOlcns are indeed al
most like a silken gown in cut.
Among the real. actual dre:H er types
suede predominates az to leather
There are any number Of dainty high
heeled models. many with strap effects
The newest trimming detail 1 have no.
ticed was a fine leather lacing effect Of
patent leather, the design often form
Ing open-work motifs.
There is a glorious array of evening
sandals about to appear. The mos
promising and elegant are those OF golo
and silver. Not the old gold and silvcl
kid things we know OF ages back, bu
something new has appeared in the
from of finely woven silver and golc
meshwork. This is used as delicate
tnlays in sandal designs in combinatic.
with matching kid.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Velvet Berets
And Turbans
TuRBANs, tams and berets, those IA

TURBANS, tams and berets, those IA
= vorites of the women who cannot
live without the casual, comfortable hat,
have returned to their former impor-
tant place in the millinery world
Last August they vanished for a short
period, while the very important look
ing hat, bedecked with flowers and
feathers, made its entrance into the
fashion world-a hat so important look
ing that it usually eclipsed the accom-
pany!ng Gress and frequently its wearer
as we'll
But since the interest of fashion so
often centers in the mere contrast be-
tween one mode and another, the Flor
entine hat, at present in the center OF
the fashion stage, gains added impor-
lance through its wide variance from
the Empress Eugene models of blessed
memory. Some of them are just the
berets we have been devoted to for so
long, with a bit more fullness to mark
them as new Some Of them have a
more generous sweep of line, which
makes the problem of finding the be-
coming hat simple one for every
woman.
Today's hat even for important ocea-
sions, Is indeed the same casual shaped
affair we have had for several seasons.
The chief difference between it and the
| formal hat of last season is a matter of
| material and the angle of its wearing.
| Even the ubiquitous beret is tilted at
new angle, and very often it Is made OF
velvet to accompany the afternoon
dress Of satin, velvet or lace. Twists
| and folds, small brimS and cuff effects
vary the hat silhouette and give the
| small cap-like crowns the necessary
variety and dash to make them suit
able, in one version or another, for
every woman and for every occasion.
For the woman who cannot or VIII
not wear the soft. crushable hat there
are brimmed models with square crowns,
with cap or inelop-shaped crowns that
break their hSSAlines by folds and
twists of SELF ed or contrasting
velvet, and hats III tricorne or bicorne
effect, always very fattering to the
matron.
At the moment the black velvet hat
is the most popular, since velvet is one
of the most f1attering of fabrics; but
there is bright sprinkling of the rich
Jewel shades, both for daytime and
evening, with reds, browns, rust, purple,
blues and beiges for the hats which ac-
company the tea-time dresses which
appear on the street in the late after.
noon hours.
On the velvet hat gold and silver
fancies, crystal or feathers often make
their appearance. Another method Of
trimming. especially popular for the
turban, is the fold Of metal cloth which
| Is draped in with the velvet to provide
a bright spot of color on the very for
NAL hat.
If you still cling fondly to the felt
| hat, remember that it Is unequaled IN
smartness for daytime wear, and that 1t
| may be made as modern as next week.
and formal in character as well by the
discreet addition of velvet ribbons, knots,
bows, cuts, folds or shirrings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
%HE midseason collection of Callot
Soeurs gives an effect of greater
simplicity than the preceding
showing. Skirts are much less
F,,1I Ia

Soeurs gives an effect Of greater
simplicity than the preceding
Il showing. Skirts are much less
full than formerly. and bias cut
ting plays an important role throughout,
giving the width necessary for walking
in skirts fitted very snugly around the
hips and preserving almost straight
line effect. The waist lines are marked
much less definitely than the hips, and
there are some half-belts. In certain
evening dresses there is a tendency to
place this half-belt somewhat higher,
almost In empire lines, though in reality
the silhouette IS princess, with the belt
only an characterization to break the
line. Skirt lengths for daytime dresses
remain about the same, IL inches from
the floor, while evening gowns come to
the ankle in front and usually have a
train at the side or back.
There are several models in leather
including green leather suit, with
mustard colored wool used for the coat
lining, the blouse and pocket trimming
on the skirt. The blouse is trimmed
with the leather.
x x Ks
A MOTHER interesting ensemble has a
n black and white checked coat with
pelerine buttoning over the right
shoulder. The dress. of black crepe de
chine trimmed with red. has elbow
length sleeves, as we'll as separate
sleeves covering the lower arm and
forming mittens The same double-sleeve
idea is used in dinner dress of black
lace, the independent sleeves finished
with band of black velvet and having
n frill on the outer seam. The belt of
this dress is of gold lame wrapped with
black velvet, the latter material being
also used to bind the bottom of the
short slip, shorter in front than in the
back.
A black wooden dress has large passe-
menterie frogs Of white braid in front.
The front of the skirt is slit its entire
length to show white trouserlike paia-
mas over which the dress is worn
Many dresses with both short Jackets
and long coats have their tops and
sleeves Of CONTRASTING ,,oatnr,a1 ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Clothes of the Theater Stress Importance of Color
Trim Fitted Ones Typify Modern Dress
Mathematical Precision Expressed in Cut
of Clothes-Chinese Yellow, Red and Green.

so to the epicure these clothes are a
feast.
As the play goes on and the heroine
"a marries a human dynamo who Is
able to produce gold continuously, her
costumes become more beautiful and
more Sophisticated, and 1t is interesting
TO observe how the impression Is
achieved entirely through line, color
ans fabric. never through ornamental
ton. The silhouette throughout is the
one that molds the figure-the statu-
esQue outline.
Colors that are given prominence are
red. purple, green and brown, with one
black costume in just about the proper
ton that New Workers are taking their
colors this season.
Favorite colors of the new season are
well expressed in Chinese yellow tea
gown; an evening dress of deep wine
color, with shawl scarf to match, even
the little wrap depending for its chic
on cut rather than any trimming; in
the red wool crepe street dress, worn
with a brown hat and brown shoes, and
in the silk crepe frock of Patou green,
in which the ultra modern heroine en-
counters her future husband on the
platform of London underground sta
ton.
X X X
DROWN is reserved for accessories
- and various accents to dress. Espe-
ciallv attractive are the shoes. chosen
to accent the yellow tea gown, which are
brown silk sandals with silver heels and
novel strappings of silver kid,
We all know that dresses of black
wool are very smart. There is black
wool dress chosen by Miss Allen with a
trimming motif of white and black pat
ent leather. A small black felt triCorne
hat, also trimmed with patent leather,
is worn with this dress, and the cos
tune Is completed with black patent
leather pumps and white gloves. This
dress shows a capricious revival Of an
old fashion. the puffed sleeve.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
Line Simplicity and Bias Cut
Distinguish CallOt Creations

phasizing the diagonal cut that IS so
prominent thro'. ghout the collection.
\: X +
COME of the full-length coats are fur
~ lined. Other long coats have mod
crate fullness at the sides and large
reyer collars. and are without fur sep
arate scarfs being worn with them
Sleeves of all coats are widened at the
elbow.
Several elaborate afternoon dresses
are cut to the usual day length, II
inches from the floor and are of crepe
de chine. incrusted with lace at the
neck. sleeves and the back of the bodice
For informal dinner wear there Is a
series of lame tunics. cut in points back
and front, and worn with black satin
skirts.
A new decolletage is rather high in
the back as we'll as in the front, with
the deep cut under the arms reaching
almost to the waist line. Such dresses
are frequently accompanied by little
coats. as in a soft peach broadcloth
with lace jacket. For both evening and
formal afternoon wear strass buckles
are popular trimming note.
X X X
MATERIALS include fine woods in
AVA diagonal and crepey weaves for
morning dresses and suits; silk serge,
plain and printed, sometimes in tweed
patterns; crepe de chine, combined as
noted with lace for afternoon and cock
tail dresses. These frocks often have
accompanying coats of the same ma
terial
Evening clothes use crepe satin. often
employed on both the bright and dull
sides of the satin; lace. broadcloth.
mousseline and lame cleverly combined
both with velvet and satin.
Black has the most prominent place
for daytime. with considerable green,
beige. royal blue and brown. while pink.
turquoise. violet and shaded tones of
gray are evening favorites.
An unusual ensemble has coat of
light gray wool trimmed with brown
astrakhan. and a dress of dark brown
crepe roma with the yoke. sleeve caps
and band at the bottom of gray lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
PARIS. October 90.

particularly interesting because
of the emphasis he put on
coat dresses. dresses with silk tops
short sleeved formal afternoon dresses
and two-color combinations and also
because of the frequency with which
his new hats were tilted over the left
Instead of the right eye, rather vel
come relief from the uniformity with
which the new hats have been worn,
suggesting true variety and thought
of the individual silhouette.
The new oat-dreSses are true TO
their name, being intended for street
wear without the necessity OF a wrap
or even a scarf. They are MADE OF
rather heavy woolens, either IN PLAIN
shades or with an indefinite mixture
without a suggestion of straight pat
tern.
The waistline is marked by mar
row belt and the blouses are almost
classic in their simplicity, with the
only variety in the sleeves, which vary
from the tailored straight sleeve to
amusing fullness at the elbow, below
or above, but always in rather tailored
effects. The fur collars are Wlde,
straight. high effects, which, when
fastened close to the throat, give the
impression of coat collars, marking
these new coat-dresses as definitely
different type of dress from any We
have SEEN Hips are snugly fitted and
the fullness is gained by pleats at the
side or front, giving definitely nat
effect in the back.
Short-coat ensembles of wool often
are in the mixed effects which are pre-
ferred at this house, the jackets but
toning soberly down from the straight
fur collar and sometimes ending IN
snug band that comes over the hip
bone with a restrained blousing and
the effect of slightly lowered waist
line, particularly in the back. The
skirts have either yoke and matching
blouse of crepe de chine or a dress top
of the crepe de chine, adding slender
ness to the silhouette and making the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
. EAUTY of line and color are the

~ EAUTY of line and color are the
essential requirements Of mod.
ern dress. The Fall season haC
IL not advanced many PAGES wher
designers CT fanciful clothes
found that the current was too strong
to swim against when they tried to
rescue old styles and breathe new life
into them, The current was modern
life.
Long, sleek lines are the lines Of the
typical 1881 silhouette. The clothes OF
today are clothes that fit; they ut the
figure: they fit our times. They are
as clean-cut as the architecture of the
Empire State Building. Delvlng into
old fashion themes, as was done this
Autumn IN creating some of the styles
for this season, has not proved effectual.
Old styles cannot be resurrected and
set into modern life, any more than
the old brown-stone type Of house can
find a place in Radio City. Dress must
be an expression Of the times in which
it is worn. So we find that the trim
silhouette is the expression Of the life
of today.
CREATING fashions and manufac-
~ turing women's clothes are among
tie greatest and most progressive in
6ustrieS of our time: therefore, success
full dress must be modern.
Reviewing fashion history, 1t is in
teresting to observe how much OF 1t
pertains to the bouffanI silhouette and
In comparison to note the sleek, trim
outline of today.
Clothes worn on the stage in the
modern trama or comedy Of everyday
life are in no way theatrical, but the
reflection of the best styles of the day.
what any we'll dressed woman would
wear in private life.
Among the most beautiful clothes ap-
pearing in any theatrical production so
far this Fall are those worn by Miss
Vera Allen in Lean Harvest" The
harvest of worthwhile fashions has
been pretty lean in the theater of late,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08

the 6ress, was marked by a muff of
the velvet. An enerald-green velvet
costume with a short Jacket was COM
pleted by a black taupe hat and collar
and muff of black astrakhan. A suit
OF dull corduroy striped black wool had
the tiniest of ermine bands on the mar
row turnover collar. and at the wrists
was q diminutive barrel rauf OF the
same fur.
There was q surprising amount Of
wine red among the guests, and not only
for entire costumes, but in velvet hats.
as the relieving note for black cos
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-08
White Dogs

A CHARMING design always for the
"A baby's clothes is nice little dog.
In some of the new street costumes for
babies, consisting of padded crepe de
chine coats, there are tiny dogs cut
from white crepe de chine and APP
pliqued on the blue or pink coats.
Little jersey costumes for the toddling
child show white dogs sewed fat on the
pink or blue background of the tiny
pull-on blouse that goes with shorts or
pleated skirt.