Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-09-06

Spring and by buying young plants from the
nurseryman IN May.
Most people, however. start their ehrysanthe
NUNS from nursery plants. In late Spring.
when the yeung plants arrive from the nurs-
cry and there Is no danger Of visit from Jack
Frost. set them out On q moist, cloudy day; q
dry wind and hot SUM- you know, will do them
good. Give them a position that is well
drained and in full sun. in light, rich soil with
which plenty of manure has been mixed.
Chrysanthemums simply must have plenty Of
fertilizer and water.
The best location is in ground that slopes
toward the south. Because heavy frosts han
frcm the north and west, it Is very necessary to
protect the plants from the north and west
winds. The need for drainage cannot be too
greatly stressed. If NUNS placed in low
ground where the water collects in Winter its
freezing and thawing will rot the plants.
When the young plants have developed new
leaves, pinch off both the tips and the nsw
shoots so that the plant will branch out and
have a bushy growth Many branches, each
with new growing tip will appear. Unless
one resorts to the pinching trick he will have
a stringy pant. But pinching after the
middle of July! Prom then administer al
ternately liquid manure, solutions of nitrate Of
soda and sulphate CT ammonia, and hoe the
surface thoroughly to make sure of thick
mulch OF course the soil should be watered
before applying the fertilizers.
In July begin to stake the tall upright yari-
cites like Lillian Doty early Summer stalking
will take care Of the erect growth CT the young
shoots
A BOUT the middle of August the NUNS first
bud, known as the crown bud" appears.
If, in raising large varieties, we wish to have
one big bloom to each plant-like those encr-
nous beauties worn at foot ball games-this
is the time to send all possible nutrition into
the crown bud by disbudding. BY that is meant
that all OF the short branches developed in the
upper leaf axis must be cut of. But most gar
deners want q bushy plant with many blooms.
and allow the shoots to develop freely; each
will produce terminal buds in clusters Of from
three to seven.
The chrysanthemum is noted for its FROST
hardness but II the early flowers are not pro-
tected against the early frost they will blacken
and die after the sun strikes them. One must
always be prepared with a shelter. There are
various kinds An excellent way Is to con-
struct a frame over the mum bed, with hct-bed
sash for q roof and burlap to cover the sides.
In a mild climate cheesecloth or sheeting may
be stretched over the flowers.
The Towering period over, cut OF the tops
OF the plants leaving the roots untouched until
Spring. Mulch them for Winter protection.
Then young shoots will come from the base OF
the old stems from the underground parts.
Take up the plant and separate it so that each
division will have q young shoot: then plant
your divisions and water them thoroughly in
preparation for the coming Fall
The worst pests attacking chrysanthemums
are thrips, aphids or plant lice and the nudge.
Thrips specialize in damagin the foliage, caus-
ing 1t to wilt and drop of. Aphids pierce the
plant tissues and suck the juices and being
tiny, are easily overlooked until they have lcng
been at work. The nudge causes more damage
In the greenhouse, however, than In the garden.
To rout these unwelcome garden visitors,
spray with the nicotine tobacco sprays on
the market, according to the directions accom-
panying them. Two thorough sprayings win
check zach attack Badly infested foliage
should always be burned.
copyright, 1872