Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-11-29
Die ting, Prohibi-
ton and the
Laws in America
Have Just About
Ruined the An
Cient Art of Eat
ing, Protests the
Famed Waldorf
Chef.
BY GEORGE BECK.

BY GEORGE BECK.
SCAR, Americas dictator of the
affairs of the table, reviewing the
state of this great culinary in
Stitution, names three factors
which have almost ended elabc-
rate dining in country approach
ing in many other respects the luxury that
was Rome.
They are, says the maitre d'hotel of the
Waldorf-Asto prohibition, the game laws
and dieting.
At the new Waldorf, in New York City,
"Mein Host" whom world leaders in all fields
are pleased and honored to call Oscar, declared
the cosmopolitan American table a much
palmer spread than it has ever been before.
Roast beef and a baked potato will nicely
satisfy the avid hunger of you and me, perhaps
but they are deficient in many ways as ma
terial for such artists Oscars cooks. Here
is how the field for their art has been cir
cumscribed:
Wines are not served and their use in cook
ing Is limited
FRESH wild game is not On hotel menus.
Americans do not eat as heartily their
ancestors did.
MEETING, we all know, is a widespread force
- governing our table While great per-
centage of the best medical authorities urge
hearty eating, according to ones taste and
capacity, Americans are probably the first
restrict their eating to follow one health plan
or another.
Nowadays" says Oscar, I've can count on
a definite percentage CT people leaving our food
untouched, except for a few polite nibbles,
because they ere dieting"
These heath plans do not dsplease oscar.
Joyfully Stuffng at the festive board until one
becomes mnovable, was the custom of the
Romans. should not please any intelligent host
So, If dieting did not deaden peoples taste, if
it or1y made it keener it easily could
Oscars cooks would only be spurred to
greater heights in their art. But, on the other
hand, nothing is 50 disheartening a gather
ing of matter-of-fact eaters who are enjoying
everything but the food One bit of evidence
of such trend as this is smoking between
courses
cigar after the last course-and nowadays,
of course, the lady'S cigarette and coffee
forms an important part of the meal, accord
ing to Oscar.
But this thing of incessant smoking be-
tween courses" he declared, lis very bad. 1t
is not enjoyable dining it is not cultured
dining; it is not healthful. But and
more Americans curtailing this bad habit,
principally for health reasons, and now the
proper gentlemen will light his cigar for
enjoyable smoke after the last course and the
ladies will light their cigarettes"
Thus the health maxims of American
eaters are leading them to outstanding
reform which is noticed with great joy by such
hosts as Oscar, who, with diplomatic smiles,
offer well studied suggestions for their guests
greater enjoyment of life. For Oscar, backed
by many physicians, can readily show that
smoking between courses only Spoils ones taste
and appetite, brings nervous stimulus to eat
ing and impairs digestive processes, which is
all very bad
In cosmopolitan America today the distinct
trend is toward palmer foods, and eating has
become matter of proper nourishment rather
than gay feast to ply good knife and fork"
A formal dinner includes about every activity
except eating in a really luxurious fashion.
Tables are spread for SpeechmakerS, heroes,
fine clothes or dancing, but not to do honors
to feast with the principal attention going
to the chef and the works OF his treasured
recipes.
Men do not want to feast on rich spread
with only water and more water served between
courses Women do not want to eat rich foods
because they are dieting (and men, tool. Be
cause of the laws of this modern land hotels
cannot serve feasts of game and wine.
without Them says Oscar. the rich old
continental feast simply does not exist"
The grand luxury of eating has; like most
everything else come under the eye Of science
Naturalists, trained in CHEMISTRY, grow our
vegetables-not farmers Our meats are quick
frozen to insure freshness. HuntSmen are no
longer permitted to sell wild game to our
hotels and restaurants simply because game is
too scarce. Our cup runneth over only with
water brought to by an engineers amazing
skill.
All this is the background of the American
table today. Winning and dining, the grand