The Daily Alaska empire. [volume] (Juneau, Alaska) 1926-1964, 1931-12-20

the first and greatest Napoleon,
but ended in tragedy in the Fran
co-Prussian war of 1871. OF spec
Gacular beapty, strong willed, Eu-
gsnie tried to .dabble in her hus-
bands government, made herself
slightly ridiculous, and turned in
stead. to fashion, where she be-
came an empress indeed. whose
newest plume and latest color
schemes were law unto the women
of the whole civilized world.
Tcday's Eachions Are Compasi.c
Ct Many CT Yesterdays
1t is Eugene and the Second
Empire of France, to which CORE
srond the Victorian era in England
and Civil war days in America,
that we credit with the outstand-
ing characteristics of today's fash
ions. In reality we are experience
ing very natural reaction to the
short skirts, straight lines and
boyish bcbs of the years just after
the World war, and in our enthusi-
asm for the opposite extreme have
borrowed from the whole history
Of fashion its most feminine and
enchanting details And so the
Christmas shopper will find them,
the fanlike standing collar of the
grand ladies of Sixteenth century
Italy, the puffed sleeve of the
First Empire, the hustle of the
Second allmingled with no regard
for the history you learned in
school, but with complete under
standing of the tastes and pleas
ures of that certain lady who
heads your Christmas list.
Sleeves Are Important
When you start out to buy her,
say, new dinner dress such as
she will love to wear for holiday
parties, or the fur coat you are
determined she shall have this
year, depression or no depression,
arm yourself with a few facts
about these new romantic" fash
ions. 1t is by their sleeves you
will know most of them. Hemlines
and waistlines remain about where
they have been the past year, but
the sleeves!
| Sleeves were originally, like
, stockings, separate garments, slip
ped on and off the arm when
needed for warmth. Later we find
fashionable ladies wearing two
sleeves, a wider one, richly en-
broidered and encrusted with gold
and jewels, or slashed and laced
together again, over a narrower
undersleeve Italian ladies of the
Fifteenth century frequently wore
entire sleeves of ermine fur. The
sleeve was separate part of the
garment, even after the time of
Queen Elizabeth. Modern efficien-
,cy forbids custom which would
lrequire one to rise earlier in the
morning to haste in ones rainy
day, work day, or Sunday go-to-
meeting sleeves, but the effect
is often there just the same. Tall
cuffs of contrasting material
reach often to the elbow, some
times inches above, and once in
a while clear to the shoulder. In
!! coats these separate" sleeves are
often of fur.
Fashion Puts Her Shoulder to thu
1 Wheel of Style
! You can tell whether garment,
will please a romantic minded lad,
lalso by their shoulders, which, i
! they follow the period tradition
contrive to give the effect OF width
whether by dropping armhole rem
iniscent of the dropped shoulde
band of the Eugene court gown
by a yoke of contrasting color, O
the use of tiny oversleeves O
capelets. Then you must watch TO-
characteristic necklines, especial.
a high one that snuggles up tigh
about the chin like the white liner
stock familiar in the pictures O
our Colonial forefatherS, and tn,
| stiff, outstanding collar suggestion
of the Elizabethan ruching, tina
elaborate white frill with which
the good Queen Bess set off he
regal head And one can Away
detect the period influence in The
use of buttons, especially wher
ttf1ey are numerous and march
straight up the front of a garment
pulling it together snugly under
the chin.
| The New-Old Cape
| Capes have long been with us
but not the tiny little shoulder
cape, reaching but half way dowr
to the elbow, which gives so many
of our new costumes so swash.
buckling an air. In the time Of
the Restoration, when all Europe
was setting her house to order
after the downfall of Napoleon
they called them the pelerine. The
pelerine proper was trim little
outdoor garment, of fur or fun
bordered, topped by jaunty up
turned collar that reached ur
around ones ears to complete the
frame set about the face by q