davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
Pumps Are Choice
Of Smart Women

Pumps are certainly TO the fore
this winter.
To be sure, there are smart OK
fords for the woman who prefers
them-so that she need not by
any means look dowdy. These
oHords are cut on shapely lines
and carry out all the new details
In fabric and detail.
But by far the greatest number
OF the new shoes are pumps.
They are made with high.
slender heels. though IL Il quite
possible to find them with heels
that are not exaggeratedly high.
Dull black suede II used for
many smart shoes. with fine lines
OF grosgrain ribbon to make the
shoes look slender and shapelv.
These shoes arc worn with black
clothes and sometimes with those
OF other colors, though these. like
almost every other model you
may pick out come in the so
called coat colors"-brown and
green.
Black suede shoes are also
trimmed with patent leather. in
black-and when these pumps
are made In brown and green
and sometimes maroon-suede.
the trimmings are of self color
in cleaning kid.
Alligator is a good deal used
as a trimming kid on the new
shoes. and most attractive com
hinations are made with il. II
Is used for tips at the toes and
for the heels Of some very smart
black suede shoes.
Some Of the new shoes have
Colonial buckles of leather to
match the shoe. set on with rib
bon and with a self-colored
buckle. These shoes often come
in bronze as well as In black and
the more usual colors-
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
They Give
New Note
To Dress
Smart Women Like Them
And Dressmakers Are
Only Too Glad To
Devise Them In Many
Happy Phases.
S in fashion

CHANGES in fashion
~ amount to more than a
mere state OF mind. True they
reflect our whims and moods
but there are deep underlying
reasons at the base of most
of them. II one but had time
to delve deeply into the mat
ter it would be interesting to
discover the rules that govern
sleeves. For more than a de-
cade after the war, we simply
didn't take sleeves into con-
sideration at all. Dresses
either had them or they didn't
They were usually long,
straight and plain or else
there weren't any sleeves at
all. And yet almost from the
beginning of that era one
heard predictions Fashion
authorities here and there
foretold the revival of inter
est in ornate sleeves and now
and then an important dress
maker would launch an inter
esting sleeve which attracted
some comment and then
passed into oblivion.
But for some interesting rea-
son sleeves r important this
season One might say in fact
that there have been more
changes in sleeves within the
past few months than in anything
else. The important business OF
bringing waistlines back TO nor
NAL had been accomplished six
or twelve months ago. Longer
skirts were no longer a novelty.
The really significant thing that
had to be done was to make
sleeves more interesting and more
individual
And the significant thing is
not that dressmakers have Gre
sted a variety of picturesque
sleeves|they would have been
willing to do that some time ago
IL We had given them the slight
est encouragement. What really
counts is that we are all of us
ready and eager to wear them.
One French fashion reviewer
speaks Of the return of two old
time elegances. and then refers
to picturesque sleeves and
brides. Bridges you know are
the same thing as snoods, and
sIoods are no more nor less than
the ribbon bands about the hair
that added so much to the pic.
turesque quality OF fashions in
the eighteenth century. There
are charming little velvet toques
for evening wear. Made with
bands OF this SOFT consisting OF
roses In two colors for all the
world like the hats that the eigh-
teenth century vatican liked to
paint.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
Puffs And
Long Cuffs
Combined
UndersIeeves and Lace
Trimming. Deep Arm
Holes and Wide Flare
Mark New Sleeves In
Pieturesqueness

CLEENE fashions are de-
- cidely varied. And while
none of the new more eLap
crate sleeves are extreme in
the sense that sleeves some
times become, we ksye a good
many types to choose from.
One may, Of course, wear
sleeves that are quite simple
and straight. AS yet a dress
does not look old fashioned
without ornate arm covering.
One may wear sleeves that
fare very slightly from the
shoulder to the wrist, ending
with a fairly wide opening for
the hands. However, in the
most recent sleeves of this
description the slightly far
ing sleeve ends a few inches
above the wrist and there is
a close fitting cuff beneath.
A type OF sleeve that appears
more often on formal afternoon
dresses than on dresses we choose
for daytime wear shows a
decided fullness above the elbow
"a puff that increases from the
shoulder. down TO the elbow. with
a straight fairly close lower sec
ton from the wrist to the Duff.
Sometimes this straight section
extends an inch or so above the
bend OF the elbow and sometimes
II extend not quite TO the elbow
so that the puff is at its widest
just over the elbow.
Then there are sleeves that take
on fullness from the shoulder
down to a few inches below the
elbow, with a full undersleeve
beneath. Reminiscent these OF
the sleeves OF our own civil war
era. A charming detail in a for
NAL afternoon dress was a sleeve
that was only slightly fuller
through the center section than
elsewhere. IL was quite long, ex-
tending in a somewhat shaped sec
ton that reached down over the
back OF the hand. And then to
add f~iattering touch there was
an inch wide strip OF material
that tied the sleeve about the
wrist in a graceful bow. thus &C
centuating the slenderness Of the
wrist. Another clever new sleeve
is fairly close fitting to an inch
below the elbow where a short
frill occurs, below which there
is a close fitting cuff TO the wrist.
Have you seen the new lace
trimmed sleeves? Lace cuffs to
be sure are not particularly new.
This season they are made OF fine
lace and usually rather narrow.
But the new lace trimmed sleeves
are made with the lace placed di-
rectly against the arm and ex-
tend from the wrist to the elbow
where they are mounted on the
prffed upper. sleeve OF silk or vel
vet That is just one of the many
last century fashions that have
been revived this season
We hear much Of deep arm
holes, suggestive OF the old time
raglan. Sometimes they are
really deep but more often the
raglan effect is decidedly modi-
fed. But slight as IL is il gives
a new look TO the new dresses
and contributes TO the width
through bust and shoulders.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
New Blouses Are
SmartIY Lovely

The new blouses are so exceed
ingly lovely that every woman
must want at least one. And II
one. why not two? Or three? Or
four or more?
They are not exorbitant in
price-at least reasonable ones
that are attractive can be found.
Some OF them, of course, cost a
lot and can only be bought by
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

as you can. When you have an
hour or two with nothing TO do.
sit In a sunny window with your
hair down. II you are not sus-
ceptible TO colds you car perhaps
sit with q sweater on In an open.
sunny window even in midwinter.
But even sunlight through a
closed window II good for the
hair. And eve the fresh air that
circulates through a well-aired
room with the windows closed
airs and freshens the hair.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
EMBROIDERY

This weeks pattern diagram
shows a pretty, simple little
embroidery design that can be
used for a child's apron or
dress or for lingerie for a
grown-up. It's just the sort
Of thing you might find useful
for Christmas gifts. II you'd
like IT, send your stamped,
self-addressed envelope to
Mary Marshall, care OF this
paper. and il will be forwarded
TO you.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
busters

Busters and cleaning cloths
should be chosen with care at
cleaning time and a good prelimi-
nary OF the general cleaning Is 10
so through your box OF old cloths
and make up a good supply which
you will need for various things.
For cleaning cloths old underwear
is good. but all button. and ragged
edges should of course be re-
moved. Cotton pieces free from
lint should be chosen for window
washing. and soft old silk pieces
make excellent busters for fine
furniture.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

Bead embroidery Is used on the
sleeves of some m the newest and
smartest N the new and smart
clothes. White beads. china
white. are used Nh "A fine pattern
on the cuffs ~ a black crepe
dress.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

Brocaded mules arc made with
straps AZ the back 10 phil them on
by-and the same sort 81 mules,
with high heels and little brilliant
buckles at the toes. are made OF
velvet. Cretonne Is used for these
high heeled mules. too, but In
stead OF a buckle az the front
there IN a fat little cretnnne bow.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

a black velvet evening dress In
trimmed with rings OF strasse
ii rough which strands of the
velvet-supple and thin-are
drawn as they pass about the
neck and are caught down az the
waistline az the back 10 form a
sash.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

One OF the smart combinations Of
the season IN suede and shark
skin. The black handbag above
and the shoe beneath show this
combination. The gloves are of
black suede. The handkerchief.
OF white chiffon, has "a huge, old
fashioned monogram.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22
Silver And
Gold Used
Together
Metal Cloth Is Sheer and
Q 0 b " e b b y-BeI+
Buckles Are JeweIed
Fur Hens On
Jackets for Pockets.

TOLD and silver jewelry
~ need not bc separated
and segregated. as they have
been some seasons. They NAV
be worn both together. al the
same time. Paris has taken
up this idea with vigor. and
smart women there wear belt
clasps OF silver and gold. neck
laccs and bracelets uf the two
metals combined.
Mesh blouses for sports and
street wear with wool jacket suits
are made with matching scarfs.
attached at the back Of the neck
10 the bloue. ends flowing loose
Persian lamb collar attached NJ,
the new suit-Persian lamb nun
TO carry with ii. The collar high
and snug about the neck. with no
loose ends. The mun small. but
big enough 70 keep the two hands
warm.
Velvet IN In high favor and
when il Is combined with the new
cobwebby metal cloth IL IN espc-
cially rich and nattering. There
are formal velvet afternoon
gowns with sleeves M the metal
cloth-with long. tight-fttlng cuffs
and puffs above the elbow that are
full and soft. "A bit ~ the metal
cloth usually appears, In these
dresses, as a collar.
Jeweled belt buckles are hiEhlyR
important with these new velvetV
frocks. both for formal afternoon '
wear and for evening.
For the youngsters there are
Scotch tweed three-piece suits for
windy, cold weather. LCEEings,
coats and caps. warm and colorful
and comfortable.
The fur border on the jackets
OF many OF the new suits forms
pockets al the lower edge-nice
warm fur pockets. that really keep
the finger tips cory.
Square necks. a. you know. are
the newest thing IN necks. Some
are outlined with the finest Of lace
collars-some with rolled bands on
velvet or satin.
"A black velvet evening dress In
trimmed with rings Of strasse
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

Square necks. a. ynu know. are
the newest thing IN necks. Some
are outlined with the finest Of lace
collars-some with rolled bands az
velvet or satin.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

c Mcclure Newspaper Syndicate
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

The fur border on the jackets
Of many OF the new suits forms
pockets al the lower edge-nice
warm fur pockets. that really keep
the finger tips cory.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

Jeweled belt buckles are hiEhlyR
important with these new velvetV
frocks. both for formal afternoon '
wear and for evening.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

Mesh blouses for sports and
street wear with wool jacket suits
are made with matching scarfs.
attached at the back Of the neck
10 the bloue. ends flowing loose
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1931-10-22

For the youngsters there are
Scotch tweed three-piece suits for
windy, cold weather. LcEgings.
coats and caps. warn and cOlorful
and comfortable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-05-10
By Alma Chestnut.

Much OF it Is purely constructive, designed
to improve the efficiency OF the post office
service-a business enterprise, you will, the
biggest In the world, with some sos, 900 en-
ployes on the rolls and handling during the
course Of year the huge sum Of So. soc, 00O, 900.
Post ONCE inspectors are special representa-
dves Of the Postmaster General, who appoints
them and their work includes every phase of
the service. They make regular inspections Of
all post ofdces and matters connected with the
service, keep the department advised Of condi~
tons and needs, investigate and report all vio-
lations Of postal law and assist United States
attorneys in the prosecution Of violations
They investigate post Office burglaries and
mail robberies, forged money orders, fires,
wrecks and other accidents involving equip
ment the mailing Of poisonous, explosive, OBJ
scene and other prohibited matters. They
check accounts, collect shortages lay out mail
routes, reorganize the forces Of the larger units
and arrange leases for post offices and garages.
In emergencies they even serve as postmasters
The service consists Of $40 inspectors oper-
ating out Of is division headquarters. Each
of these Offices IS under the control Of an in
spector In charge, who has under his 1urisdic-
ton from one to eight States or possessions.
inspectors are chosen from the rank and ME
of post Office employees and must have had four
years of service They pass q stiff examina-
ton. undergo a period of intensive training at
the Post Office Department in washington
and additional training in the held Men VINO
do not come up to the high standard OF in
tegrity and fidelity that are tradition OF the
service are quickly dropped from the rolls.
billions Of dollars In currency, bonds, stocks
- and other securities are dispatched through
the mails Little OF it Is lost, total OF only
&l,619,189 the last i've years, OF Wnlcn $oU4IS4
has been recovered to date.
One reason Is that as many safeguards as
possible are thrown around registered mail.
There are armored cars, machine gun manned
and other protective devices. Employees carry
guns and know how to use them. Rewards are
offered for information leading 70 the arrest
and conviction Of Offenders against the mails
On top Of all this the reputation Of the IN
spectors as faithful and mdefatgaDle truckers,
and the fact that trials are held IN Federal
courts which impose quick and heavy SEN
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-05-10

-. r was really the pots and pans, knives
III and forks pepper can and parts of
the express tag found as . result Of
q thorough search by inspectors and
railroad agents, that convicted the
three de Autremonts."
Yhis paragraph from the inspectors report
that wrote FMS on the investigation Of one
Of the most daring mail train hold-upS IN
history, explains better than highly coloIed
phrases the method followed by post once
inspectors In establishing their brilliant record
IS criminal Investigators.
Behind sensational accounts Of the big coups
which, during recent years, have included the
roundup of the "Egan Rats" notorious St.
Louis gangsters; the capture Of Gerald Chap
man in New York and the successful tracking
Of the Roundout III, mail train robbers VINO
pulled the biggest job the records, are stories
OF methodical, painstaking work covering weeks
and months of effort
It has been said that the inspectors wM
spend rs years and million dollars TO catch
. person who steals as much as scent stamp,
which perhaps Is exaggerating bit, put u
conveys the idea. They never forget, ana tney
never give up until the crook Is in jan. Colo
trails and intangible clues serve only as chal-
Ienge TO their ingenuity and persistence. Every
detail of the job Is carefully studied.
I'VE cannot afford to overlook single Item
that might possibly serve as evidence, Ihomas
NJ. Milligan, chief inspector, stated In one OF
his interviews.
.Nine-tenths of the finds may prove to be
trash but the one-tenth brings convictions.
Not clever Sherlock Holmes tricks, but thor
Dughness and tenacity, bring success. Some
ttnes it takes years to solve case-and we
don't like that. Of course-but sooner later
NE get the offender"
4 AR. Mu.LIGAN is tall, quiet man, modest
bNi and retiring, who refuses to be photo
ir1phed From behind round, tortoise trimmed
El<<sses his eyes bend upon you the inquiring
look of a student. No novice at the game he
came up from the ranks to his present position
a. great trust and has long record Of service.
Detective" is a word he does not Ike to
have applied to inspectors. He points out that
ti1p activities of the men operating under his
direction cover . broad neld. and that only .
traction Of their work has 70 do with running
Gown criminals
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-05-10

had been able to select quickly from til
signment Of registered matter. The Wa
ton men could keep an eye open for him
might throw light on this matter.
Meanwhile other suspects were being
In. Jesse Newton, \ fourth brother, was
to Mexico, lured across the line by an in
who posed as representative OF rode
wanted him to perform" in Texas. !
F. Holiday was taken, and, in sens
raid on a fashionable Sanitarium, Brent
cock, who, with his wife, had been
quite a figure in the social life Of the co
When arrested he was equipped v
bullet-proof vest. He had $4,000
person and unset diamonds worth $50 DOC
Adroit questioning Of the seven under
enabled the inspectors to get evidence to
Inspector william ]. Fahy, one of the fe
in the inspection service ever convicted
offense against the mails.
In court it was proved that he had
information about the shipment to h
and that Murray, in turn, had tipped
Newton gang through Glasscock.
Murray and Holiday were given 25-yea
fences, Wiley and Willis Newton and
cock u, Joe Newton 3 and Jesse a year
half
All but about $280,000 of the loot "
covered. Part Of it was traced to the no
yellow Kid" Well, con man extraor
who also wound up in jail, and key,
on Holidays person. led to a Kansa
vault where some 500, 900 was recovered
Glasscock revealed a plant" 25 mil
of the same city where, in a thicl1et, t
spectors unearthed fruit jars coat
$4,000 worth Of jewelry and diamonds.
Buried stone crooks in other localitie
tanned q fortune in negotiable pape
currency. At Tulsa. Okla. the inspector
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-05-10

The avalanche OF
circulars fhe post
office men LOOSed on
the tcorId in their
hunt for the De
AutremOntS. More
than 2,265, 900 Of
these iOere printed
IN sic languages.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-05-10

Rfu was really the pots and pans. knives
~ and forks pepper can and parts OF
the express tag, found as result OF
thorough search by inspectors and
railroad agents, that convicted the
three de- AntrernnntSo
Hyder weekly herald., 1931-12-05
How Eskimos React to
 March of Civilization

The Eskimo has gone white" The most prosperous and most extrava- gant race in the world at the present era of depression is the fur-clad deni- zen of the Arctic, who Is generally pictured as living on blubber and in- habiting an igloo.
 Eskimos within range of civilization have gone i'll for commerce, particu- larly the fur trade, in wholesale fashion. and some of the most sue cessful make incomes from $5,000 to $40,OO0 year. They spend all they make. When an Eskimo has rich harvest of furs and cashes in on 1t, his first thought is to book passage on an airplane flying to some city where, in exchange for his money, he can buy a white mans outfit.
 He usually purchases swift motor boat, new hunting and fishing equip ment, and clothes of the white mans mode, for use on ceremonial indoor occasions. If he has not already in- stalled a radio he buys one, and 1t is probable that he will purchase musl- cal instruments In addition.-Boston News Bureau.
Hyder weekly herald., 1931-12-05
How Corn Is Popped by Radio

Explaining how corn is popped by radio, and why 1t is placed between jars of ice, the General Electric con- pany says that ''the heating of the corn is produced by radio waves of very short wave length. The heat is generated by current induced within the kernels themselves. The purpose of the glass jars, with ice, placed on each side of the corn, was to show that this was so-that is, that the sur rounding atmosphere was cold and that the only thing that was heated was the corn itself. The reason that the corn was heated by the short wave radio waves and the ice water was not was because of the difference of the electro-conductivity of the corn ker- nels and the ice water"
Hyder weekly herald., 1931-12-05
How Gelatin Is Made

Gelatin is formed by the action of boiling water on connective tissue, cartilage, fragments. tendons. skin, hoofs and bones. By one commercial process the selected tissues are washed and soaked in warm, diluted soda I've for about ten days and then heated in an air-tight compartment. They are next washed in revolving drums. bleached by fumes of burning sulphur and rewashed to remove the sulphur, after which the gelatin is dis solved out with boiling water. Color is removed by means of bleaching charcoal, and the clear, hot solution is poured out in thin layers, which, after setting, are cut into small sheets and dried on nets.
Hyder weekly herald., 1931-12-05
How Spores Travel

Scouting trips with airplanes show that spores of certain plant diseases are often found at heights of 10000 feet in the upper air. This is one eX- planation for the spread of such dis eases as black stem rust of small grains, say specialists of the United States Department of Agriculture.
 Investigators working with white pine blister rust have found that spores of that disease falling in per fectly still atmosphere from height of one mile require D hours to reach the earth. Such experiments make 1t clear that plant disease spores may he blown for long distances unless brought down by rain or some other agency.
Hyder weekly herald., 1931-12-05
.*x*xx*xxx*x*xx*xxx*xxxxx
HOW.
CHA MONSTER SPREADS

CHA MONSTER SPREADS POISON WHEN IT BITES.-- The Gila monster, which inhab- its the southwestern part of tine United States, is the only liz. ard known to be venomous. The poison apparatus differs from that in snakes, which have the poison glands and fangs in the upper jaw. In the Giil monster row of venom glands lie along the inside of the lower lip and the openings are near the bases of the grooved teeth. When the lizards bite they de- liherately chew the object and cause considerable amount of the poison to work into the wound through the channels of the teeth. Although the bite of the Gila monster has been known to cause death to man, as rule the poison Is not fatal to huuan beings, partly because the creature seldom has an op- portunity to bite so large a vic tim and work the venom thor oughly into the wound. These lizards feed chiefly on other liz ards of smaller species and on these the venom takes effect rapidly.