The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1931-04-21
Long Goats
Are Placed
in Discard
BY JEAN PATOU
Written for NEA Services

PARIS, April 21.-The simple
morning costume invariably viii re-
veal some novelty, inherent pri-
marily TO the change Of season, and
this new note first is found in the
composition Of the costume itself.
Spring and summer automatically
discard most long coats, as these
necessarily must be made of some
sort Of wool fabric, therefore, rather
cumbersome and surely too heavy
and warm as the season advances.
The long coat is to be found only in
regular sports or travelling outfits
The informal mode, characterized
by morning clothes, is expressed this
year in the guise of a dress and
Jacket. The former can be long
sleeved, short sleeved or devoid Of
any sleeves at all, and the jacket
will be found amply sufficient for
the time Of the year.
Like Cardigan Jacket
have based the execution Of my
simple morning dresses on the prin-
ciple that sleeveless dress should
be completed by a sleeved jacket
and vice versa. AS matter Of fact,
these new jackets really are a mod
ernized form of the old cardigan"
which, a few seasons back, consti-
tuted the third or fourth piece of
an ensemble.
The modernized cardigan Jacket,
however, differs vastly from its pre-
decessor as it shows a certain
amount of detail work and in this
way does not convey the impress
sion of just being an accessory.
No hard and fast rules apply to
the creation of these morning
dresses, as for example, for con-
ventional sports clothes.
The Waistline is clearly defined.
usually by the addition Of a con-
trasting belt and a certain note of
fantasy is impaired to these gar
ments by the fabric itself, usually
Of an original design and, as is the
vogue this year, quite colorful.
Browns Are Best
The best colors this spring for
morning or informal wear unuues-
tionably are all the browns. COM
bined with white or beige, some
blues and green's and one or two
shades of red.
Jersey weaves are by far the most
suitable fabrics for this type of
dress, because Of their extreme sup.
pleness and lightness. I have used
quite number of almost openwork
fabrics that present none of the
disadvantages I always encountered
with ordinary wool jerseys, which
were that they were unhygienic, be-
cause too tightly woven and not
sufficiently light and supple.
l think that all trimming should
be in the form of a direct con-
traSt and ! have used, almost ex-
clusively, ordinary white cotton
pique on these morning outfits.
Any other fantasy can only take
the form of details Of cut or in
crustations Of the fabric, as these
models must preserve their char
acteristic of informality.
fullnesS Is Disguised
Regarding skirt widths of morn
ing GARD: While afternoon modes
reflect the years tendency to pro-
nounced flares from knee to hem.
informal dresses are inclined to
show an attenuated fullness, and
even this fullness is disguised to
preserve a straight silhouette.
Pleats are stitched as far down
the skirt as comfort for walking
and sitting will allow, and if
godets are used, these are disposed
on the skirt in such a manner as
to prevent any appearance of a
flare.
Design plays an important role
this season in these simple morning
ensembles. I have somewhat tired
of chine effects, but still prefer a
material with a design to a plain
fabric.
The latest and newest designs
are rather irregular, but with a.
somewhat blurred effect as chine
and the great advantage they offer
is that of being more colorful.
1 am glad to see that women are
Of the same opinion and are
adopting these new designs EN-
Enthusiastically.