Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1931-02-15

IA NO14CIJAOLAoy-k k1h AdAo,
wv flower trimmings and tilted
brims are seen as the most
interesting in the new style
notes. Outstanding among the new
fabrics are paper straw and a wide
range of tricots, the latter in high favor
at Marcells Lely's and at Agnes, two of
the most important milliners in Paris.
A tricot which has the soft pile of q
light angora is used by Marcelle Lely
for larger hats as well as for the draped
cloches which are such an important
feature Of the new season. Rough straw,
of the woven variety, is also used here
for these same draped caches, one of
the most interesting being in dark
gray with the tiniest spot of color
furnished by bunch of red and orange
feathers on the rolling brin.
Agnes, too. makes a special point of
trtcot this season, featuring new stitches
and designs IN both silk and linen.
These are used not only for the tiny
hats which she believes in for all pur-
poses except for the Riviera and Palm
Beach season, but also in the big shapes
for resort wear. Chip straw, very pop
ular this season, is used by this designer
for the brims of large Midsummer hats
with tricot crowns.
X
GOFT tricot straws are woven, not in
~ regular plated designs, but in I'M
usual patterns in contrasting colors like
black and white, while the combination
effects which do not carry these large
patterns but are woven in the straw
often use bit of handwork to add to
another color or pattern, giving the eff
feet of a ribbon woven through.
Agnes insists that all her hats shall
be exceedingly light. both in material
and in color and many of them are
flower trimmed
Wreaths of tiny blossoms such as for
get-me-notS, small roses and hyacinth
blossoms, encircling the entire head, are
placed on tiny knitted caps Of tricot
which are worn high on the head in
front, and very long and low on the
back of the neck. Sometimes these
flowers are in same color as the tricot.
At other times they offer o distinct
color contrast, as in a white hat trim
med with pink, mauve, blue or rose
flowers. Sometimes half the wreath is
of one-color flowers, and the other half
of another shade, as in q white hat
trimmed with wreath, which Is half
pink, half mauve. or again leaves form
the principal part of the wreath. Red
flowers or white flowers are effective on
black hats.
RRIMS are almost invariably tilted
this season, often being raised by q
single camelia placed beneath them.
Indeed, rats are always worn high on
one side. lower on the other, which
makes this brim-tipping almost obliga-
tory. All models. be they large or small,
are much longer in the back than here
tofcre
Feathers are used in little tufts on
the tiny triCot hats. and also on brim-
med models, where they are often APP
piled in the form of fat ribbon around
the crown and under the brim
Hats made of pleated, checked ribbon
attest the continued popularity of
checked effects for all parts of the
wardrobe.
A S to color. Agnes shows much black
and great deal of white. Next to
these two shades, light blue Is her
favorite, used alone or combined with
chestnut brown. Following these were
light pink, light green, some navy blue
and a little red.
Besides the black and white combi-
nations, which are outstanding every
where. one sees much of the tiragee
tones as trimming on the standard black
straws like milan and bangkok Brown
also is often seen as a combins ton
with these light shades for street wear
with navy blue, the third of the dark
tones IN Importance. These lighter colors
often make the bodies of hats of all
sizes, with the more sober colors used
as the trimming note, while yellow is
shown only by certain houses.
D. L. M.