The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1930-03-19
BY ALMA ARCHER
Written for NFA Service

Written for NEA Service
NEW YORK. March l9-Mate-
rally speaking, the latest collections
Of the Paris Haute Couture have
given the smart woman something
to think about.
I do not mean the price tags of
$500 or so on a gown. / am speak
ing about the gorgeous new fabrics
from which these latest fashions are
made. No one will dare spend her
money for new frocks this spring
without first planning. in a material
way, just what the total wardrobe
will be-
The first fact of fabric fashion is
that semi-sheer crepes are newest
for everything from lunch time I'M
til the evening party is over. These
include the gamut of lovely mate
rails known as Elizabeth, Lisura,
georgette. Roma, Moravia and
others which represent twisted and
straight weaveS netting a result of
mi-sheerness. Lanvin's No. 257 in
mistletOe green was an extremely
picturesque evening gown of semi
sheer crepe.
Ribbed Silks Popular
Vying with the seni-sheer crepes
for the first honors of material i'm
portance are ribbed silks. mas
much as these two great classes of
fabrics behave themselves in oppO-
site manner, the clever shopper will
need frockS of each. Silk or silk
and wool ribs as we'll as spun silk
ribs, take multitudinouS forms.
These may be plain, printed or
made with a silly little woven JAG
guard design in self color. Maggy
Rouff herself wore a charming day
dress in gray pinched rib and al
most every couturier in Paris
showed plain or printed versions
for the silk tailleur.
Miller SOeurs used a tiny dot
printed rib for a jacket suit with
nipped waist Lucille Paray featured
a high-waisted packet in tricot
rib Of biscuit color with a wide cote
de chavel for the black skirt.
Third fact of Importance in fab
RIGS is the reinsurance that prints
are still good But do not think
last years prints will do. They
won't. Jacquered prints are very
new. Understand the word "jac-
ouered" for you will meet 1t often
It means designs woven into the
material in the same manner as the
material itself.
Silk Suits Important
This brings us to the important
fashion of silk suits. Small spaced
designs are newest. not too many
colors. Dots checks, little flowers
are good.
Printed chlffOnS for country club
dinners and evening wear reflect
clear shades in large, graceful,
spaced designs. Patou'S use of rose
pattern chiffons was quite outstand-
ing and unusually charming. Often
the plain or printed chiffon summer
evening frock takes its printed chit
fon short wrap or printed taffeta
one in the same design.
Satins. soft as moleskin and with
considerable luster. are smart for
the formal evening gown or evening
ensemble. Patou, of course, intro
duced them in his rose opaline.
BrIyere in pure white and Paray in
a delicate light pistache coloring
made real contributions.
Wooden Have Place
AS far as the woolenS, the infor-
NAL crepana and francilla, soft
twisted materials used by Jenny and
Chanel. spared with the silk and
wool loosely woven drelyuna crepe
which Lanvin used so extensively for
suits.
Chanel has some small linen
weaves for her long coats, lined with
printed crepe OF chiffon. Vionnet's
marvellous formal town coats
stressed her smart one-Sided fas-
Jennings, particularly furless. She
prefers the smooth, firm, patrella
type Of replaced wooden, drapable
as fine silk.
Black is tremendously smart in
Paris for all day long and blues for
both daytime and evening run from
the lightest of Channels shades,
through the brite-dark hyacinth of
Boulanger and Lelong to the navy of
Drecoll. Greens follow the Silhou-
cite trend, and certainly the smart
est are from the empire period.
Lettuce heart, willow, palm and
Napoleon are favorites. The best
red are Vionett's like offShoots of
crushed roses. And if one looks well
in Patou'S rose opaline for sports
and evening she probably will be
lovely in a deeper crushed rose shade
for day.