Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-03-30

occasion to look the place over and were mildly
surprised at finding no Norsemen
But more Norsemen came early in the
eighteenth century. They took to marrying
ESkimos, today the result of this mingling
insists on being referred to as a GreenIander
With a good deal of reason he is proud of
his synthetic ancestry To his ears the
of the term Eskimo is as degrading as
though one had branded him a barbarian
savage or aborigine. So frequently the blue
eyes. red hair and fair compilations of the
Greenlander sing song of Scandinavia while
skin clothing aromatic iglooS and characteristic
food Just as surely proclaim the Eskimo
VET they do not worry ABOUT split person.
alItieS. Each half leads an existence of
automatic felicity. When the Norseman gets
hungary the Eskimo goes out and harpoons a
seal. When the Eskimo returns from the hunt
and Graves entertainment the Norseman I'M
hmberS the old accordion and fills the night
WIN music The Eskimo has even been known
10 go out and get a drink for the Norseman
ana to tall asleep when his other half got
droWSy. There is only one thing the Eskimo
refuses to do for the NorSeman no matter how
great the provocation and that is take bath
AT the moment the Danish government has
about $4,000 wards. During the last hundred
years the population has doubled There is a
written and spoken language newspaper
local currency-in fact, there is much that we
have invented to make life complicated
But they have, in their own fashion, simpli-
fled matters of social contact. The unmarried
women wear red ribbons in their hair married
women, blue; widows, black, and those that fall
into none of these categories, green.
The wearing of the green takes on a new
significance" said our chief. what are those
that wear red and black mixed?"
"A widow who's willing to take another
chance" suggested the cowboy
The taxidermiSt was pensiye well" he re-
marked at length, there's no excuse for a fell
low committing a social error up here unless
he's color blind"
The principal thing Greenland grows is ice.
When a section of ice the size of a city block
bursts from a gIacier-faee and floats majes-
tically south, it ends up cruising the North
Atlantic steamer lanes in competition with
legitimate ocean traffic. At this point the ice
Is taken in charge by two international patrol
boats Each berg is given a number and its
exact latitude and longitude is broadcast at
regular intervals. Thus, gradually wasting away
they are chaperoned to tropical waters and
oblivion.
These offsprings of the north wind are of
every conceivable shape and size and perform
the most unexpected acrobatic featS for the
water tapping against their smooth TANKS is
constantly disturbing their centers of gravity.
They stand this long as they can, then as
though in desperation, they roll over into a
new position. The result is a series of tidal
waves fierce enough to swamp good sized
boat. They add distinct Zest to Arctic nav-
CATION.
We passed the entrance of Umanak ford by
picking our way gingerly through a maze of
newly born bergs. In the Summer the glacier
at the head of the ford is alleged to move at
the rate of IS feet day-not a bad effort for
solid ice. But strangely enough as we worked
our way through this floating ice box the day
clear and warm. Though the heat was not
WAS nd aVip Wa
about 1900 miles from the Pole
Upernivik is about ~ degrees north and
marks the limit of the Danish settlements in
Greenland 1t can claim the distinction of be-
ing the most northerly town in the world for
even Hammerfest, Norway lags several degrees
behind it. AT Upernivik we lunched with the
governor The first course consisted of a glass
of SchnappS This followed by mixed
vegetables casserole and glass of schnapps.
Next a glass of schnapps. Then there
schnappS. Now small river of assorted
calories flowed freely around the board; canned
herring lobster, sausage, pigs head cheese,
black bread and thiny sliced aukS breast Any
faint of monotony removed by a bottle of
pale ale. A hard-boiled auk's egg was featured
just before a series of toasts of courtesy to the
worlds ilIustrious dead. BY the time the
illuStriouS living were reached we were obliged
to persuade the governor to lump them into one
sweeping gesture and let it go at that.
WHEN we returned to the harbor the cow
boy squeezed himself into a native canoe
and after telling the world that he was from
Montana and could lick his weight in bulldogs
he announced, successfully, that he was an
Eskimo, Greta Garbo a walruS, polar bear,
sea lion, the reincarnation of Gen. Grant, and
then proceeded to attempt the native feat of
turning completely over under water. 1t was
a very creditable performance. He was just SO
per cent successful. The only hitch was he
remained permanently suspended upside down.
An expressive series of bubbles began to rise to
the surface LlVleh i6'seemed ias .tE7eugEs there