Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-03-28

A dress to be in good taste and to be
serviceable at the present time
must not only have style, but 1t must
also be appropriate for the purpose for
which it is bought. The type must be
suited to the fabric, and the finish
must be correct. Above all, the trim
mings used must add chic to the dress
rather than mere decoration. A dress
may be smart yet badly made, but II 1t
is both smart and well made, and also OF
good material, then the general erect
Is satisfactory.
Women with limited allowances for
clothes should choose the more conserv-
alive styles If they wish to be well
dressed. Often the position of the waist
line, the length Of the skirt the length
of the sleeve and the method of trim
ming are the chief differences in styles
from one season to another. Changing
one or the other will help TO make a
dress look more up to date. Colors and
textures are just as subject to change
rs Silhouettes and the cut of garments.
Frequently staple colors like black and
dark blue and brown are the fashion
able colors but as they are also staple,
they are usually good to buy, provided
the weave wears well and the garment is
not made up in an extreme design.
ColOrs to Choose.
Avoid using too many colors together
In one outfit A one-color costume Is
more dignifled than O mixture. although
the new prints are riot of color. Usual
ly, however, contrasting color can better
be obtained by means of beads, ribbon.
or decorative stitches. Repeat the best
color in your hair and eyes to obtain
good effect. White reflects color and Is
becoming to all compilations A fabric
should be fast to both light and wash
ing. Fast colors are not necessarily dull
colors. Before buying dress materials,
take q sample Of the material home and
submit it to the conditions under which
1t Is to be used. To test, cover q part
Of the sample with cardboard and ex-
pose the rest of the Sampae to direct
sunlight for at least q week. Remove
the cardboard occasionally and compare
the exposed and unexposed portions.
Wash sample under ordinary condi-
tons and notice whether 1t fades or not.
NeckIfne Is Important.
The shape of ones face and the width
Of the shoulders should determine the
selection of the kind Of neckltne to use
on q dress. The neckline Of dress is
an important detail. If the face is thin,
do not use a V-shape neckline. If the
face is round and full, a rounded neck
line will make 1t loo kmore round, so do
not use this shape. The square neck
line Is not becoming to many women. It
is usually used on evening clothes, and
only by women having finely textured
skin and a well-rounded neck and Shout
ders. The harshness and severity Of any
neckline, however, may be greatly soft
ened by the right use Of trimming. Soft
lace effects are good.
Plain and Ornamental.
Always use thread that matches. This
means thread that Is a shade darker
than your material, as 1t works o little
lighter. Use medium fine stitch.
Make plain, preSSed-open seams and
overcast them or turn and stitch the
edges back separately. Overcast arm
hole seams, never bind them.
To join bias strips, place the two
pieces to be joined right sides together,
forming q right angle. Match the de-
sign and thread Of the material. Join
with plain seam. Press the seam open
and cut of the protruding corners.
When bias strips are joined right the
edges are on q straight line, and the
strip is the same width throughout.
When dainty edge finish is desired,
the rolled hem is desirable as it can
lace TO a rolled edge, place the lace
and the rolled edge OF the garment with
the wrong sides Of both toward the
worker between the thumb and first
finger of the left hand. Let the straight
edge of the lace meet the rolled edge
Of the garment. Place the needle under
the roll, bring it out onto the edge Of
the roll, and take up the edge Of the
lace In the same stitch This keeps
the roll In place and joins the lace at
the same time. Stitches should not
show on the right side.
A scalloped facing makes very at
tractive and durable finish for dresses,
aprons, pillowcases, curtains and other
articles. To make, first determine the
depth and width that you wish to have
the scallops, then make Q stid paper
guide for them. If you wish to have
the scallops Of the same material as
the garment, turn the hem the depth
you wish TO have the facing. II con-
trasting material Is desired, cut It the
depth you wish for the facing and caste
wrong side to wrong side Of the gar.
ment With pencil mark the scallopS
according to the stiff paper guide which
you made. Sew around the pencil lines
and cut away the material, leaving about
one-eigllth inch for Q seam. Turn the
material to the wrong side, press, and
haste. Stitch with the machine across
the top Of the hem. A very good finish
for Q scalloped hem or facing u hem
stitching. Several variations, such as