Putnam patriot., 1930-12-04


 But there was DO wait for we had hardly seated ourselves when. from an adjoining table came Tommy and Charlie. bruwued from a summer 0f sailing the Mediterranean and a. glad aS they Nere Co see us ss were we glad Co see them
 On the asoFrow we met af noon Co motor to Vile d'Avray but a shower came gp and wrc dismissed the motor and aecidesd to stay in town. High up on M0nfmarxre we climbed 10 a little restaurant that we believe is still un- discovered by the horde IL Is a tiny little restaurant. SO tiny that II you dd pot know uf it. you night easily pass # by ard never know sts exist ence r is scarcely twelve feet wide and not more than twenty feet in ceuth Tables are ranged along one side Thers is a tiny bar and prl- vacy is insured by intervening screens. Tse food is delicious and the patron never fails to come and join his guests for an aperatEf which is not included n the bill. As for Tom my and Charlie. they were delight cd They ate the rich snd excellent pats and they drank the wines of the Sarthe and they hailed w5th cheers the excellent cheese and topped # all oF with a brandy or two.
 The sun came out and in and in Q moment se were in the Boulevard Montmartre again. They had never visited Sacre Occur, % in a jiffy we were in cab and up around the Place des Tertres and leaning over the parapef gaxing down upon Paris. from Neuiliy to Nincennes and be- yond While the others took the.r fill of the panorama, we sat upon the steps of the great church that is the crown gf Paris. Before Us. their backs to san. two old eroHes. um- hrelas raised. trays of religious sou Fenirs in front of them. were reaears- ing the gossip ef neighborhood. Be tween cries fo buy the sacred en- blemx they Nere telling such story e Mrs. 0'hrien of the Bowery might haze been reciting t0 Mrs. Cohen of Delaney Street. When we could not resist laughing aloud, one of them turned to Us grinniug and toothless and said. .Et Bien. m'sieu. you have hearss9 TseHz. was that any way to treat a womang" And we laughed and gave them some sous and went inside the ugliest and the yet most votive of all the churches of Paris.
 When ~e emerged, far down Charlie spied the fleche of Sainte Chapelle. Tommy must see Sainte Chapelle as be had never been in Paris before, 70 down we rolled from Nontmartre and past the Port Saint Martin and soon we were walking through the courtyard Of the Paiais de Justice ard were gazing upon theee glorious walls of stained glass that. Heaven be praised were saved from the can n0ns of Berlin Then for a walk along the river where the booksellers and buyers were busy at their late afternoon haggling and in few mo- H5sTits ss had taken $ cab again ssss! were bound for the Dome and it's af- teruo0n circus of artists and pseudo artists and soi-s.sant artists over in the rack of Monparnasse An hour there on the terrasse watching the crowd. the cocoties. the so-cal,ed stu dents and the picturesque but bath less habitucs of the place and we parted to meet al dinner.
 We dined chez I.arue in great chic and we each had our favorite dish regardless of the tastes of the others. Then what to do? Paris in early Sep tember k no gayer than any other ereat city at the end of the summer season The French have not return ed from their house-parties and their seaside resorts. The English are busy with their guns in Scotland. The Americans are hurryinQ homeward, g nee Labor Day has passed and new year of work has begun. The Germans and other Central Europ- enns are also clattering homeward. But Charlie has a Russian complex and sa we trail the evening out from one Russian cafe to another, all of them the same: dimly lighted, vail ing music. Cossack costumes. Tzigane songs and dances. As one of us said, it was all rather trick but little soothing and pleasant and we found excellent wine. however appalling the price Near two o'clock We dropped into huge restaurant up near the Place Pigaile, ate cold meat and salad and parted, completely worn out but satisfied.
 We might as well confess that it was the sheerest of xentimentality that led us one showery afternoon to revisit the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. Perhaps it is macabre streak in us, but cemeteries have all ways fascinated us. Pere Ia Chaise, is and has been for century and more the metropolis of the great of Paris. IL stands now within the city finite, easily accessible by taxicab. It is a crowded hill of the dead. closely packed city of tombs and monuments climbing from the iower-spread ave- nue that is an approach to the ceme- { tcry's chief monument. the panoramic Monument of the Dead" Behind this. the hill rises to q Chapel and higher up and beyond is the great Columbarium and Crematory, known Co Americans chiefly for the great demonstration that was made there on the occasion of the cremation of the body of Isadora Duncan.
 But we went to see where were buried the remains of Sarah Bern haTdt for since her death, obedient to the urge of a childish hero worship. we had promised ourselves a pilgrim age to Pere La Chaise that we might lay flowers upon hef tomb.
 We entered from the Avenue du Boulevard and, at the office of the concierge. obtained a map of the cemetery with the tomhs of the great marked thereon. In the first Ave nue we came immediately upon the great black basalt sarcophogus. plant cd squarely in the middle of the side s.solL x..k.~l ak-