Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-07-27

And what a change there will be! From
the boyish type of year ago who wanted to
make whoopee, 90 places and do things,
there was a gradual trend to the more
feminine type. But as is usual in such cases, !.
it was a bit overdone, and Dame Fashion
thought femininity meant lots of laces, frills
and ruffies-her skirts were all lengths from
the knee to the ankle and DRAGGING in the
dust. Waistlines were anywhere you wanted
TO wear them, high, low, or in between.
Fashion really did not know what She
wanted.
But -today-1930- knows en-.
actly what she wants femininity, yes. But
calm, poised femininity. Fashion has
crown up-a little older. She went from
the boyish figure to the frilly, futterins
feminine, and now she has arrived at calm,
diknifed, poised femininity. You'll hear il
from every fashion authority this Fall.
Her costume this Fall must be harmonic
ously complete-every part bought to mt in
with every other part. You will not notice
any particular part of it, because ii will all
harmnoize and blend in together. And the
more nearly she can look like Greek
statue, the more nearly she will be a COM
plete Fashion success.
Goats will be made of less bulky ma
terials, and they are cut with many of the
details of dresses. There is a new way with
seams, cut the same on dresses, to give
aliahtly fitted effect to the waistline. Vionnet
uses the scanning not only for fitted lines
but to trim the coat. Goats will have more
crushed or draped collars than other seasons.
Belts and buttons are being used to keep the
coat fastened. There will be contrasting
colors, but well blended and not sharply
contrasting. There will be lons-haired furs
and short.haired furs. OF course, the long.
haired furs are best on dress coats with the
shawl collar that will be so popular.
The proper length for most coats is mid.
die calf and they must cover the dress.
SPORTS coats may be trife shorter, and the
dress, may show just bit beneath the fur
coat. The formal or dress coats will be
made of crepey weave woolens and suede
finish materials.
Sports coats are of the more informal
materials, tweeds and homespuns. And
they are belted or buttoned or both, snd just
as smart as can be.
The colors that will be most worn are:
Black, at the top of the list. Then brown,
in dark and its varying shades. There is q
growing interest, too, in the brighter coiors.
Blue will be good for early Fall. Green is
one of the popular colors, too. The brown.
beige shades are best in sports coats.
Tweeds have two or more shades of the
same color which contrast mildly. You see,
they all follow the Fashion rule of blended,
rather than sharply contrasted colors.
The dresses will need a whole column
by themselves, so / won't try to tell you
about them here. I just want to tell you
that your handbag and shoes must agree in
type with the rest of your costume-that
your gloves must also blend, either with
your coat, your hosiery, or the trimming on
your coat or dress. And so down the
line. Handbag, shoes, gloves, hosiery,
iewelry all must harmonic and blend so
well that no part of your costume is con-
spicuous, but is beautiful whole.
And il yOu schieve that you will be the
last word in Fashion for Fall.
I'll be back in Washington soon, and if
there is anything you specially wish to know.
write me and will give you any information
can. Glad to do it.