Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-11-09

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by way Of slate quarry In
Wales On chance visit to the
latter in 1854 his interest was stirred in the
properties of cleavage of the States The me-
chanical problems there involved he took home
with him to London where he devoted many
months of research to the subject. 1t was sug
gested to him by one of his scientific associ-
A&es that the same problems involved in the
blates also are exemplified in the structure of
glaciers. So TyndalI looked about for some
glaciers to study. Those of the Alps were the
most accessible, and there he betook himself
IN 1856 in company with his distinguished
friend Prof. Huxley.
They found themselves in an inn above
Interlaken, facing the vast snow face of the
Jungfrau Huxley took it calmly enough, but
Eyndan was moved to enthusiasm. For the
time his scientific quest was forgotten; he was
like man who catches his first glimpse of
much-courted beauty and realizes, without
regret that his life henceforth must be largely
Nevoted to her pursuit.
From the foot of the Jungfrau the two pro-
Ressors with their rucksacks over their Shout
defs and a carefree spirit in their hearts,
marched eastward through the OberIand on the
paths that have since been used by succeeding
generations of trampers. They went over the
Crosse Scheidegg Pass down to Meiringen, then
Vp long valley where the great Handbag Fall
Ehunders down into its profound chasm, then
mp to the desolate. stony pass Of the Grinsel
tains. but with Tyndan it grew to an obsession
that was to mold a large part of his life.
They returned to England and resumed their
usual busy lives in the lecture room and the lab
oratory. Tyndall was q worker of the sternest
sort, and for a time his passion for mountains
lay dormant. Then Spring came back to Lon
DON and the professors thoughts went flying
back to the snow peaks Another expedition
Was planned and executed.
HxHS time he chose the Valley OF Chamonix
- Mont Blanc drew him irresistibly. In
August of the year 1857. accompanied by
Ehomas Hirst and Prof. Huxley he set out
30 make the famous climb, and after an ardu-
nus ascent triumphantly reached the summit.
This climb marked the beginning of Tyndall's
career as mountaineer. After Mont Blanc he
tried and succeeded with others of the great
haimbs. About this time-it was on a later
season In the Alps-he was fortunate in MAX
ing a contact long enduring one, with
tnan who was to bear large part in his later
b1imbing.
John Joseph Bennen Of the town of Lax
WAS one Of the great guides of the golden age
~ Alps climbing. In him daring mountaineers
recognized leader At for hazardous expedi-
lions Those who climbed under his guidance
Entrusted themselves to him with confidence,
knowing that with him no precipice could en-
gulf them without hts going into it, too-an
went unthinkable.
Tyncall met Bennen, liked him. was liked in
eeturn and climbing combination was forth
with formed. The two looked about for some
enterprise worthy Of their ambitions. There
ere many mountaineers Of ripened Judgment
who say that the noblest Of all the Alps Is
the Weisshorn. It is q vast pyramid of granite,
whose three faces intersect to form three steep
md narrow ridges. The whole is powdered
Mhite with snow, which rises at the summit to
cone as perfect and fragile as a peak in
kAiryiand.
Ever since men began to climb the Alps the
Weisshorn has fought an unrelenting battle
against its attackers. Other peaks. dificult at
0rst, have become easy through improved
climbing technique and increased knowledge of
the routes, but the Weisshorn remains today
hard and dangerous task for the best noun
kaineers. Its three faces are craggs, Steep over
hanging and lined with ice-filled gullies; the
khree ridges are knife edges of torn, twisted
mocks, with precipices on either side It takes
eepeated toll Of lives.
In 1851 the mountain was unclimbed, al
though every ridge and every face had been
kx1ed by competent men. In August of that
year TyndaH came to its foot, fun Of resolution.
With him was Bennen, also venger, an active
md agreeable OberIander who was taken along
% second guide.
They spent day at Randa the village near
st the foot The professor inquired for the
best spot for bivouac on the way up, and was
kOld Of a well situated shallow cave high up on
the side With that as his first nights objec-
tive, he left the inn one afternoon with his two
guides and zigzagged up the lower pine-cov-
cred slopes.
4 ATE in the afternoon they reached their
nights shelter, really an overhanginR
ledge covering a fiat bed Of clay. All OF the
nearby SUBMITS were in sight except the cone
Of the Weisshorn itself. which was hidden by
autting Lodges above. They skirted the slope
until their own peak was in full view. Their