New Britain herald., 1930-04-08

change in the fashion world is far reaching. When, therefore, the long, CT skirt was accepted, it necessita- ted studious analysis of proper balance in other directions. To achieve correct proportions capes and capelets were employed to broaden the shoulders. To still further insure symmetry of line, and proportionate harmony, hat lines underwent a swift and radical change.
 The first note of former popu- larity to disappear was the low cut over the eyebrow which was at it's best a trying and dangerous treat ment because the slightest depar- ture from the right angle of wear ing was fatal to smartness as well as correctness. The new brims arc rounded high, giving a generous eApanse of forehead, being often lifted with the suggestion of bendeau which affords them swagger side tilt. This vagabond drcop is especially effective in the felts which will be worn late into the summer in all the soft pastel shades, including the lovely tone Of beige-yellow suggested by hemp, and orchid mauve.
 Lines Arc New
 While berets, toques and tur- bans continue popular for town wear, they have departed radical ly from their former lines. The crowns are low, fitting the head closely, and width is achieved by enormous back bows in the satin and taffeta turbans; by the cle- phant-ear side treatment, or by a tauared-ofr side flare which sug- gests the Egyptian influence. Whatever the treatment, you may be sure that the proper width to balance the longer skirt, the long, ct hair, and the broader shoulder Is accomplished.
 As another concession to tho new silhouette, many of tho French stylists arc designing two hats for & single costume, using il single scarf for both conceptions. The same color scheme is usal for both hats, one following the urban variety and the other all lowing wider brim in one of the many and intricate brim treat m ents of the hour.
 For the toques and berets of the late spring. there has been much delightful experimentation in ma terials, fabrics holding first place in French preference. Effective uses are made of dull satins, taf. fetas; jersey straw that looks like flat jet beads and Is very light; handwoven hemp; ecru-col- ored string; chenille, and linen in the lovely pastel shaoes of orchid mauye, apricot and beige-yellow. Egypt Influences Mode The Egyptian influence is illus trated in the sketch of dark blue :, taffeta turban of my own creation with its tight and shallow crown and wide back bow.
 Maria Guy uses a soft tweed. jersey in another interesting tur. ban shown in the illustrations, again demonstrating the high tight, new line across the fore head, and wide sides achieved by elephant ears which come together in the back with one of the perky little bows which are everywhere present in spring and summer mill linery.
 As summer advances fabrics will give place to straws and the beret and turban be supplanted by larg- CT hats. Many of these new straWs strongly resemble fabrics, having that same flexibility which is 50 necessary to the manipulation Of the new and artful cuts. Panama lac and ba.kou-lac are among the most popular new straws, although q rejuvenated Milan runs them I close second. For the wider hat for summer, following the cape like form, erin and Milan take first place although Milan straw of this year is of a softer, finer tex ture than that shown several years ago.
 The large hat among the draw ibgs gives an excellent illustration of what may be expected for sum. mer. RebouX is the creator. Tho straw is Milan, dyed that gor~ geous new shade of tomato-rose- ribbon of navy blue and the same shade of red as the hat and has a satinette quill cocarde at the side- back in the same shades. 1t is the type of hat that will be worn with the lovely lowered chitfons when coats may be eliminated later in the season..
 Heavy Straw to be Popular For daytime frocks the sum- mer promises a perfect deluge of heavy Italian straw like the illus trated. Maria Guy is responsible for this treatment of the rolled brim, with its flaring sides to give the demanding breadth. This Ital- ian straw has a satin texture and black and white check pattern. A motif of black satin fastens the brim in front, like a clip pin. and is & novelty which marks many Of the hats designed for suits and daytime frocks. The Italian straWs with their heavy ~uuves and satin texture promise great popularity as the season advances. Panama l lac.' q bakou straw weave with a