Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-01-26

Manning owns it-and he is one of
Arizonas best known old cattlemen. His son,
however, went to an Eastern school and brought
back ideas about thoroughbred horses and fine
cattle stock Still, I expected to find Canoa
preserving the RICH favor of typical hacienda.
When motored 40 miles to find it and keep
a dinner engagement with Mrs. Manning nat
urally I did not dress formally. Fortunately
not, as two flats, one spare on the rim, do not
help evening clothes or dispositions.
I was ushered into the great living room by
aproned maid and found the hostess sur
rounded by-dudes. No less Not paying
guests" but guests for the evening.
We got to the endive salad without drop Of
conversation about anything except the East.
Finally I broke in to ask my host, Did you
ever find rattlesnakes about?" Horrif1ed
glances pierced me. He rose to the question
with factual information, followed by this story:
81 had bought some new land and was hav-
ing it surveyed for q fence while college
chum was visiting me. He wanted to go with
the surveying party into the foothills The
last stake was in an awkward position among
cacti, rocks and mesquite on the side Of a hill.
My friend, most rotund, bulky, beefy went to
place the stake and had just bent over when
I saw rattler cOiling behind him. Jump,
Bubl A rattlerr I cried. Bub Strengthened,
yelled Where?' lost his balance and sat right
down on the snake before it could strike It
wasn't necessary to shoot that snake, but it
took several shots of liquor to put Bub into
condition again"
After driving several hundred miles 1 found
the Altar valley beneath the Baboquavori
Mountains to the west of Arizona. There
spent two glorious weeks at Cross Anchor ranch,
then owned by Harold Bell Wright, but since
sold to Fasteners. lived there wrapped con-
tentedly in the real West. I rode the range
every day with the cowboys, helped break ice in
water troughs IN the mountains, watched the
COW hands fashion lariats from horse hair or
tanned leather.
It was there learned about Mexican cooking
Not the usual dude dish of tOrtillo tamale and
chilli con carne, but about cebeza tatemar and
menudO. How delicious they are! Cabexa
tatemar Is the baked head Of a beef Dit OF
heated rocks Is filled with dirt after the head
Is placed In. After hours In this primitive fire.
less cooker the head Is removed. Never did
tongue or brains taste so delicious
Fortified with this experience once again
set out on my quest Of the Southwest. I stop
ped ct the Santa Marguerite ranch to find that
fnancier from the East had joined the All
Cona owner and the whole project was IN for
expansion. Eventually found the Buena Vista
Ranch. In the center OF the State, bat the dudes
had beaten me up the sturdy climb to the
mountain valley, and here an artist sketched
the scenery Of MONDAY and q soprano kept her
voice In trim wArblng two hours every morn.
ing and an OrnithOlogist from the Field AGu-
with cardinals, Aycatcher, Louisiana tauagers
and mauve-colOFed doves
One young woman decided she never could
care for the West. Her riding horse SHE'D a.
jack rabbit dashed past and threw her into
cIump OF cacu She spent a week picking OUT
the barbS and then left ], too, left to find
Hoffman Birney, the magazine writer and
novelist. at his ranch but it took six different
attempts over as many wagon trails to get
there. I felt rather kindly toward this Western
lied dude, who limits his garden to cacti and
thinks a rabbit has q right to enjoy tender
grasses If fools insist on planting it."
- '.'ri- '~.t -. u,
COME one told me of a sweet little ranch'
out in the San Rafael Valley back of Pata ~
gonia and through the Harshaw Canyon. So 7
sought that, but it turned into battle-ground
"of course, am dude If you insist on your
definition that any fastener with enough
money to pay his board for two months is that, -
belligerently countered a guest
What else are you? What I'd like to know
Is, Why the bitterness toward dudes on this
frontier? We come out here eat beans and
red pepper and ruin our digestion so you can
market what otherwise would never sell. We
buy blankets, baskets and pottery and help your
Indians be independent. We pay room and
board on your isolated ranches and housewives
install electric lights, get maids to relieve them
OF drudgery and actually begin to live We
like the climate, so we buy Winter homes or
ranches and boom your real estate Good
heavens, woman. everything has got to develop,
change, advance. Progress Is the greatest"
It grew rather burdensome listening to him,
so took up the road again In my car, remem-
bering IS went the delight Of Cross Anchor
and looking forward with equal pleasure to q
typical Western flavor when reached Empire
Ranch.