Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-01-24
Some Valuable Short Cuts
In Home Sewing Methods
Suggestions Made as to Equipment and Rules
Which Will Contribute to Sue
cessful Work
cessful Work.

There are two kinds Of sewing ma
chimes. They are the tvo-thread OF
lock-stitch machine and the one-thread
| or chain-Stitch machine. Either kind
does good work. Study the book that
comes with the machine to learn how
| to use it and care for It. A sewing
machine requires just as careful atten-
ton as any other kind OF machine. 1t
must be kept clean and we'll oiled, OF
there will be unnecessary wear and
tear on it. Do not try to sew faster
than the machine is intended to sew,
as this is a strain on the machine.
Good machine stitching includes a
careful adjustment of the tension to
the length of the stitch, size OF ma
chine needle and size Of thread. The
adjustment of the tension is different
on different kinds of machines. The
| length of stitch and size of needle and
thread are all determined by the fine
ness or coarseneSs of the material to
be sewed.
Necessary Tools.
There are very few necessary tools
| for sewing, but those that you use
must lbO good to be valuable. The
| necessary ones are scissors, thimble,
needles, tape measure, pins, thread,
In order to cut cloth or thread easily,
scissors should always be sharp. Be
careful not to drop them, as this
loosenS the screw, making them harder
to use. Do not cut paper with them,
because paper dulIs them. Tie q piece
of colored ribbon to your scissors. This
will save many minutes that would
otherwise be spent in looking for them,
as the ribbon can be seen even If the
scissors are half hidden under papers
or sewing. The best tape measure to
buy Is one that Is numbered on both
sides. 1t is very convenient If the
numbering on one side begins at one
end and on the other side at the
opposite end.
Have some kind Of box or bag in
which to keep your tools; then always
keep them there. This will save much
valuable time in searching for things.
A small emerybag filled with powder
is good to keep In the sewing basket or
bag. It is then possible to push the
needle through it to polish 1t II 1t
becomes sticky or rusty. Keep in your
work basket some tiny rubber hands.
You will have no more tangled threads
/ If you viii loop. one Of these little bands
over each spool of silk, cotton Or darn
ing thread when not in use. The tiny
slit in the end of spool thread Is easily
broken on, and then there is nothing
to hold the thread in the spool. This
will save waste of thread and solves the
problem Of keeping each spool in con-
dition to use. Sometimes the average
work basket is not large enough to
pairing from time to time. In this
case bureau drawer can be used for
the purpose.
When selecting a pattern be careful
to buy one of the right size. Even If
the age is give.., look at It carefully.
See whether the bust, waist and hip
measures are right for you before you
leave the store. You should take these
measurements before going to the store
Choose q pattern that has few seams
and pieces. Before opening it, study
the directions carefully. After you
have opened the pattern, compare the
pieces with the chart, If one is given,
and write the pattern number In blue
or red pencil on each piece, II there
are any pieces which you are not going
to use, fold them up neatly and return
them to the envelope to avoid confu-
sion. In most patterns q seem allow
ance is made, so that you must cut
exactly at the edge Of the pattern.
Helpful Sewing Hints,
1t Is important to know the best kinds
Of hem finishes which can be used on
different materials in order to secure
a smooth, nat hem. For silk materials
1t is best to turn one-fourth-inch fold
and stitch this first turning with the
materials determine the depth the hem
the desired depth. Put in the hem by
H. NwyAkk a&AH,
materials determine the, dtpth the hem
is to be, then haste it In place. Pink
the raw edge and catch-stitch to the
body of the garment The pinking pre-.
vents travelling and gives at nat finish
for heavy materials. To make q hem
with fullneSs, determine the depth of
the hem, then haste it. Turn a fold
one-fourth inch and stitch with long
stitch on the machine. Gather up the
fullness by pulling the thread. Basic
in place and hem by hand or by ma
chine II the material is cotton.
To cut true bias, fold the material:
to be cut so that the warp threads lie
parallel with the wool threads. Grease
the material and cut on the crease. To
join bias strips, place the two pieces
that are to be joined so that their right
sides will be together, and the two
pieces will form right angle. Let the
upper piece extend exactly the length
of the seams width to the left of the
lower piece. Begin to sew at the right
hand edge exactly where the two pieces
form an angle. BY basting with bright
colored thread much time can be saved
when preparing articles to be stitched
on the machine.
When sewing on buttons, especially
on children's clothes, it is well to sew
over pin so that the stitches will not
be drawn too tight Four-holed but
tons may have the stitches form q cross
on top Of the button or two parallel
lines. Wind the thread tightly around
the button three or four times to allow
room for the thickness Of the button
hole. Fasten the thread securely and
neatly on the wrong side, Rubber
buttons are fine to use on underwear,
coveralls and such things that have a
habit Of coming from the wash with a
few buttons missing. They viii not