The Washington times., 1930-09-18

Ultra is q dress by Chanel--of
supple black velvet with a quaint
puff of greige lace in the upper
arm, which matches lace inset
forming a yoke at the back Of
the bodice. The bodice and upper
part of the skirt are nodded to
the figure-with skirt flaring all
around at the bottom.
No more does there exist an eve
ming dress which Is not quite long,
almost touching the ground.
Sports dresses have changed very
little In length. Daytime dresses
are from IL to 13 inches from the
ground. Afternoon dresses are
ankle length.
Individuality In Dress Is
Proving Popular
STROLL down Fifth Avenue
~ with us, any of these sunny
September afternoons, and see the
really startling change that has
come in the dresses women are
wearing. We do not mean that
skirts HI. re had another revolution,
or that buStleS and waSp-waiSts
have come back. But a few years
ago, one smart woman looked
very much like the next: there
was one smart silhoutte, and
everyone wore it. Right now, you
can see definite evidence of that
important tre.ld towards indi.
viduality that has been coming
along for several seasons. Women
are pioneering. in different di-
rections. looking for the clothes
that best represent their good
points.
In one short walk nowadays,
We see first q woman who is
smart in a tunic dress-a long
slim belted blouse, in brilliant
blue worn over a black skirt.
The blouse has a border and
large buttons Of smooth black
fur; and of course, the hat and
other accessories are black. This
woman stands very straight and
walks briskly. She is expressing
her individual taste by choosing
dress which reflects a Russian
influence In fashion.
Another woman, a very pretty
and feminine type, is wearing a
dress in Patou's deep, rich, red
brown. There is soft draping
of the fabric at the neckline, a
short peolum, and a skirt that
falls gracefully in restrained flares
all around. She likes her clothes
to fell in soft graceful folds
and so she expresses her indi-
viduality in her choice Of a dress
which resembles the Greek trend
toward draped lines.
And still another smart woman
has found that she looks best in
black dreSS-apparently a very
simple dress, but In reality quite
intricately cut, nodded to her
figure, and growing full only to
the bottom Of the skirt. With
her smart shallow crowned black
hat carefully worn to show just a
wee bit of her wave at the ears
she is another picture Of 1880
individuality.
Every day, see still more
costumes that follow the dictates
of fashion. But it's fashion
adapted to one woman's figure
requirements and to her indi-
vidual liking. This season. there
is no one silhoutte to which we
can point and say, THAT is the
smart silhoutte." There are five
or six major silhouttes which are
all equally smart, and the clever
woman chooses the one which is
most becoming and pleasing to
herself.
Embroideries-silk. beads and
the strass embroideries-will be
seen on the 1930-31 dresses.
The silhouette is very close
abe 1T the bust and hips but wild
ems out from the knees.
In many misunderstanding
gowns are little longer in front.
the line Sloping up toward the
back as in 1890.
On almost everything there IS
a little narrow belt.
Sleeves larger at the elbows or
the upper part are very smart.