Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-12-28
You There bSnch a
Thing as ''7HeSouI
Of Food, > Which
Must Be Kn0zvn
andAPPreciated
for Real Epicurean
Enjoyment.

Il was the first dish his mother taught him to
make. When he was only years old the only
thing that could distract him from his mothers
kitchen were the activities in the village black
smith shop over which his father presided.
IT loved to watch mother cook" said this
dean Of chefs, land have never been able TO
improve on some of the dishes she prepared
for us in little village home''
With merry twinkle in his deep brown eyes,
whose sight has never required the aid OF
glasses, M. Escofier added: "I like your coffee
better than your water, which find is always
too cold" AS to prohibition? We'll" con-
tiuued the jovial white-haired chef, "tts q
great amusement in which some get rich and
others poor, but the majority seem to have lots
OF fun about it."
THIS led to the subject Of Escofner's hong
life. Some one asked me when was In
America several years ago how had lived to
be 80 old" he said smiling. "And gave this
recipe for longevity: Beat well the yolk Of one
fresh egg. mix with two teaspOonfuls Of sugar
and add two small glasses Of brandy. Then
finish nlling the cup with fresh milk and drink
just before going to bed! Whereupon my in
quirer replied: Yes, but we have no brandy
Then said. 'youT have to 60 to France"
n. Escofner, although . real epicure, has
never abused the privilege Of either eating or
drinking. He enjoys glass Of wine with his
meals, but has always taken both food and
drink in moderation. Nor has he ever used
tobacco in any form-perhaps to insure more
perfect taste. Whatever his formula for re-
naming so keenly alive, his dear skin, quick
and penetrating eyes and unfaltering step belle
his years and almost convince one that perhaps
he speaks only half jokingly when he says
that he has only to close his eyes to think he
Is IS.
AS to the origin of Escofder's renowned peach
Melba, it was in 1893 when Madame Melba was
living at the Savoy in London and Escofier
was chef de cuisine. A fayorite dessert Of hers
was vanilla ice cream served with very ripe
peaches. She would order 1t day after day.
Escohier was q great admirer Of Melba, and
one night soon after the opening Of the Carlton,
to which he had gone as chef, she presented
him with tickets to the opera. He was charmed
by the beauty of her voice, the grace Of her
movement and the power Of her Interpretation.
The next day when he was making up the menu
he thought of her favorite dessert and wrote
down "Peches Melba," thinking at the time Of
serving only the peaches and the ice cream as
he had served them to her 30 many times
before.
RUT so inspired had Escofner been by MelbaS
singing that a new thought came to him.
He would add to the peaches and the ice cream
. sauce of fresh fruit that would blend with
the ice cream and peaches and make q MAR
velous dish. Raspberries was just the fruit to
give the perfect touch. He quickly made q
puree-a sauce that well might vie with those
of Cereme of the French Empire.
Madame Melba was to dine ct the hotel that
evening Escofler had another inspiration. He
carved and chiseled out of ice swan with
wings outspread like the one in "Lohengrin."
And when the great singer was ready for the
final course of her dinner the ice swan was
borne in, carrying the new dessert that was
destined to become world favorite.
Having created the dish with peaches EScof-
fer applied his inventiveness to developing the
idea with strawberries, pears and other fruits
in season. They were all delicious but the
peach remained the favorite. In order to he
able to serve 1t throughout the whole year he
then had whole peaches preserved in cans
something which up to that time had not been
done. He then prepared the formula for the
same Melba with which the world has since
become familiar
The true peach Melba, as Escofier prepared
It, has whole peaches cooked slightly in sirip
and pressed down in q mound Of vanilla ice
cream and covered with the sauce Melba made
from the juice Of very ripe raspberries. When
fresh almonds are available Esconher sprinIEfes
q few on top, but never uses any but the fresh
ones.
So happy does this octogenarian chef seem
in his work that one decides the task Of chef
Is surely pleasant one.
CCopVright. $780,