The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1930-03-12
Wool Jersey
Replaced by
Ne7U FabaiC
BY JEAN PATOU
Written for NFA Service

PARIS. March 12-The new
spring fashions reveal the fact that
the French couture has definitely
ressserted itself. It once more has
found its old daring both in con-
ception and in line.
The result has been wealth OF
inspiration, at once more elegant
and presenting difficulties Of exc
cution hitherto unknown.
We now have entered upon a
period of really great "haute cou-
tlre," dating back TO pre-war days
when fashions changed. sometimes
radically, every six months
Fashion creators today are IN
able TO curb this evolution. Styles
are too vivid. They carry along
with the latent forces of their ma
turaI development, with the result
that IL is impossible for any one
creator to rest peaceably on lau-
reis gained with preceding collec-
ton.
turiers must meet the den9nis Of
& mode that is as vital and a. t'ir-
buleut as any other fo1ceful e.e-
ment
New silhouette Complicated
It is rather difficult 70 describe
my new silhouette. In the eyes of
an outsider, the transition is per-
haps less brusque, less self-evident
than that which marked last sea-
CONS.
Yet the dresses for the coming
spring and summer are different.
They have a certain eaSy-gOing air
which is possibly an improvement.
The only reproach that perhaps
could have been made to the win
ter silhouette was its somewhat
schematic and static line. This was
necessary, however. to prove our
ideas.
The most striking characteristic
of my sports collection is perhaps
the absence of jersey de laine and
sweaters. Despite their practical
qualities and the enthusiasm with
which women greeted them when
they we're produced, l have aban-
doned them for several reasons.
The foremost is the difficulty of
striking a new note with this type
of fabric, then it became altogether
too popular in the ready -to-wear
trade, and lastly. l consider it I'M
hygienic.
Fabric is Changed
I have replaced wool jersey by
fabric which presents all the ad-
vsntages of jersey. It is just as
warm and just as supple, plus
coarser weave that will be welcomed
by all fastidious women as allow
ing for a more complete ventila-
ton of the body.
Afternoon dresses naturally will
be longer than last seasons. accord
ing to the eXigencieS of the fashion
of today. The full length coat will
be more fashionable than the
shorter lengths seen this winter, or
the quite short jacket.
The dreSSy tailored suit assumes
q very important place this season.
Here no hit-or-miSS is allowed to
pass muster. Gloves, stockings,
shoes, bag. hat. all must be abso-
lutely right. the linen or satin
blouse impeccable.
The classical, two or four button
coat with a tailored skirt will be
very smart. SO will the less severe
type. have created few suits
quite different in line, in keeping
with the dress fashions. IN order 20
show that suits need not be static
in style.
Evening Gowns Changed Little
The new evening gowns have
changed but slightly from the last
season.
Dance frocks have been specially
studied to allow women perfect
freedom for dancing and for walk
ing to and from their cars when
dining out, as so often happens
In the summer time.
Simplicity of line and material
are the keynote OF these gowns,
printed chiffon and plain crepeS
10th being used.
Black, navy and dark colors
generally predominant in my COL
lection. I have only one vivid COL
or which I call Rose Cpaline,"
and although perhaps a little dar-
ing at first sight, it will, I think.
be found becoming for practically
all hours of the day
This same rose will be used as
a relieving color for black and navy
blue dresses in a great number of
cases, as we'll as on hats.
- ID n u III 10