Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-01-12

n I what our clothes make us.
wv We should not only select
correct fabrics made In the
new styles and in harmonic
ing color combinations, but We should
wear them at the right time, and with
the right accessories. We must remem-
Der that the well dressed woman is not
the one who stands out because OF her
clothes, but the woman whose clothes
are so much a part of her that she flts
pleasingly into the picture.
Since fashion has returned the trim
tailor-made suit to favor many women
will make 1t the basis OF their travelling
wardrobes For this suit there are GER
tain worsteds and woolens that proved
serviceable when suits were formerly
the regulation street uniform-twills,
serges and tricotines. AS yet they have
not threatened the supremacy of the
tweeds, but the favor already shown
covert and mannish suitings In tiny
herringbone patterns shows that the
fashion straws are veering toward them.
These closely woven fabrics, which
take and hold the crisp, definite tailored
lines, are appropriate for the two-piece
suit with blouse. whereas tweeds are
more often used for the ensembles of
dress and coat. The heavier, nubbed
vweeds will be used for two-thirdS.
three-quarter and full-length coats, and
Tile lacey JWCGuS, kIFILlk u 11dEs
row stripe effect, for the dress. Very
often the tweed of the coat or cape is q
monotone repeating the dominant color
note Of the lacey tweed. Black tweeds
are accepted in sports circles as well as
for town, and are an excellent choice
with the black and white dresses: brown
blends with the numerous brown and
mustard and brown and blue combine
tons, and green with the green and
hciUN Ind Urav and UranF Yenivf,YrnQ
~
SECTIONAL effects produced by the
ingenious treatment of cores, seam
fngs and landings. are distinctively
new. In fact, plain surface today
has the look of last year. In the skirts
there are up and down cores 10 give
fitted hips and spreading hemlines.
This scheme is repeated on coats and
on the new capes. On the blouse and
often on the hips the cores are hori-
zontal. breaking the figure croSswise,
and this treatment Is used for trim
ming on the jackets.
In place of cores there are pleats,
usually in clusters and kept well toward
the bottom of the skirt, and q wrap
around arrangement. with the godets
to give the flare Many of these skirts
have yokes or strappings and landings
to simulate yokes, Hemlines are even,
extending from four to six inches be-
low the knee. i s
While three quarter coats are found
In the tailored suits, shorter jackets
are more popular. With the longer
skirt they are generally more becom-
ing, giving the longer line, and they
are certainly more jaunty and youthful
in appearance. Some are very short,
little more than glorified boleros: 9TH
ers extend slightly below the waistline,
while the majority hug the hips tight
~. A few Of the newer shaped and
fiarc coats show double-breasted
jacket Is usually found in jerseys and
knitted tweeds.
On all suit jackets, long or short, the
new waistline Is definitely indicated.
Sometimes this is accomplished by belt
or q belt In the back disappearing
through side cuts and buckling under
the released fronts. Again diverse lines
in scanning, vertical tucking, diagonal
arrangements and fabric incrustations
give this fitted waistline. On the soft
er suits, those in wool crepe or silk,
peplums haring below this definite
nipped-in waistline accent its position.
The result Is a fitted, haring, tailored
garment.
THE more strictly tailored suits show
simple, notched collars. The three
button, cardigan type of ensemble often
displays a tuxedo collar which may be
carried out in one of the fiat furS. One
Of the newest collars Il . cape collar
on the order of fichu, which may
even be of fur, tying in front.
Many shoulder capes are also shown
In galyak and other fiat furs processed
20 lob HE sxa1xyok htQrk 01l~
yak Is preferred with black-when
white ermine or one of It's substitutes
Is not used-so natural lynx and dyed
squirrel are chosen with beige; bleached
Russian kit fox and brown caracul with
covert and the blue fox when q dressy
fur Is desired. On jackets with no col
lars the blouse collar Is sometimes de-
signed to serve for both, and happily
when IL Is on the scarf order knotted
at the front
Among hallmarks Of the coming sea-
son are the capes which swing so nom
chalantly across the shoulders of many
topcoats. There is the greatest di-
versity In shape, ranging from capes
which fall at the back only, and even
there may be divided, and the capelets
which fall only over the tops of the
shoulder or In front to the tiers which
extend almost to the hiplire.
AS rivals to these cape-coats there
are regular capes, shaped and gored to
give smooth fitting shoulders. The
longer ones have Sits for the arm so
that they may be worn as comfortably
as q coat, and on the steamer have
distinct advantage, both for tramping
.e deck and for the steamer chairs.
ON suits of the lighter fabrics-wool
crepes, failles, fiat crepes and printed
silks-the cape may be an integral part
OF the ensemble, even buttoning to 1t.
In the same way it plays an important
role on tailor type dresses OF wool and
silk.
THE suit solves many dress prob
lens for the traveller. for with sew
eral blouses 1t may be made to serve for
( all but formal occasions. On shipboard
where comfort Is most desired there
sometimes embroidered, Of various
knitted novelty jerseys, or pique. all
correct for wear with jersey or tweed
suits. Pique blouses are the newest
types for the more tailored worsted and
tweed suits. They may be selected In
the pastel tones as well as In white and
are tailored with all the precision of a
mans shirt.
For more formal wear there are silk
crepe, crepe satin and silk tricot
blouses. both the tuck-in and the over
blouse, belted or bloused by banding at
the bottom. There are also more FEM
snine embroidered batiste and sheer
linen blouses. For these paStels, such
% ciel blue. vionnet pink, water green
and maize are a little newer than egg
shell, although white, to give the mag
bic effect, is preferred with black.
Various devices are introduced TO
make these blouses delightfully."- soft and
feminine - fagotting. pin-tucking, tiers
of ruffies. pleated collars, bows, tabs and
all manner of delicate handwork.
Sometimes the skirt woke is extended