Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1930-01-26
BY HELEN DRYDEN.

%HERE'S no Spring tonic more eff
feetive than new hat. If you
cannot 60 South and enjoy the
4 fascinating resort clothes you
are seeing in the shops you can
bring Spring q little nearer by wearing
Q Spring hat.
This season you will not have TO
sacrifice everything to smartneSs. There
Is such wide variety of shapes, with
so wide range of colorings, you win
be able to select a hat which Is both
smart and becoming An outstanding
characteristic Of the Spring hats is
that they frame the face fiatteringly.
And we are to be allowed brims again
This doesn't mean that the off-the-
face effect has been banished, for crowns
are kept shallow in front so that the
brim appears to be lifted of the face.
Pleats or groups of tucks are a fea-
ture of the rounded or curved brimS
Of the new mushroom shapes. You will
md them either on the side brim or
at the back. They are one evidence of
the hand work and brim manipulation
which are characteristic of the new
hats. We are seeing It in the intricate
scanning and fabric manipulations in
our clothes, so we should expect to
see 1t reflected In our hats. 1t is even
more marked in the dresSier hats. for
elaborate fabrics in our formal clothes
50 We have special straws and more
dreSsy hats. for formal afternoon
cloths. This consideration of time and
place likewise calls for small hats with
street costumes and larger hats for the
flowing, frilly afternoon clothes.
=
EVEN for the first Spring hat, which
we may wear while the snow is
still on the ground. straw is preferred.
1t may be straw combined with felt or
with fabric, but there must be straw
in its makeup. The extensive featl,r-
ing OF straw is the most striking charac-
teristic Of the new hats. These straws
come to us from many lands, from
China and Japan, from Italy and
switzerland. There are fine linen
readily manipulated as a fabric. There
are rough straws rejecting the prac-
teal quality Of tweeds, and there are
lacy, transparent effects for formal
hats. All Of them are used in the vari-
Gus shapes, which range from the close
hitting bonnet to the picture-making
capeline.
OF all these varied straws we hear
most about panamalaque It is a fls-
trous straw, very fine In weave. All of
the designers are showing it, but it is
called by various other names, giving
the impression that It is exclusive WITH
the house showing It. Yen may re-
member that same confusion last year
with neora and picot hlciole. Both were
1ustrous straws, but the former came
from Switzerland and the latter from
Italy. Both are popular this season,
only Paris sealing NEGRO, bogota, and
picot mciole Is better known as Porte
to it. All these straws are known A.
synthetic straws because they are .
combination of vegetable fiber and cell
lophane. Bodies that are made exclu-
sively Of vegetable fiber are distin.
guished as exotic strAws.
-
IA SIDE from these high-styIe straws.
bakou remains the straw we shall |
see most universally used. Combina-
tons of straw and angora, or straw
and wool, which can be made to LOOK
Ike tweeds, are reserved for sports
wear. And with them should be classed
panamaS and bangkoks. Despite the
furore which straw Is creating. there
is no leSsening Of the favor shown felt
The colortngs are so subtle and so be-
coming and can so easily be matched |
70 the costume that we are ordering
them as freely as at any time in the
past -
For an early Spring hat the combine.
ton Of felt and straw is a. happy one.
And here the bakous and fine sisols
are used. For an all straw hat, one IN
black panamalaque would be advisable
because its lustrous appearances makes
1t dressy and yet it is simple In ap-
pearance, and, therefore, correct for
town. The new tricot bandingS which |
show such lustrous effects are used for |
the same reason.
When black is not chosen, black and
white Is generally chosen or black with |
just touch Of q bright color, often |
supplied by the tiny feather fancy. The |
natural col0red straw, such as Porte |
Bonheur, IS very effectively combined |
with red or blue felt BallibuntIe, in |
pie-crust coloring, has been combined |
with butter yellow felt in q hat intend |
ed for immediate wear. Corinthian |
green, fleet blue and lacquer red are |
the colors we find advanced for the |
first Spring hats.
y =
SOFT flares rolled away from the face, |
pleats producing length at one side |
or suggesting draping and q snug 1T at |
the back which covers the hair line /
produce the desired silhouette for the
mall hat for town wear when the brim