The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1930-08-05
Capital of
Style Holds
Big Opening
BY RosETTE HARGRoyE
NEA Service Writer


Special cable Dispatch 10 The Times and
EEA service)
PARIS, Aug. with the first
gala opening Of fall and winteE
fashions, Lucien Lelong confidently
glorified the new era Of long skirts
for afternoon and evening wear
with diversified effects and bewil-
dering righteousness Of materials
and accessories.
The blossoming charm and dig
nifty Of vomen's dress, hesitatingly
introduced yesteryear, burst into
full flower. The crowded salons
echoed with applause and upon the
appearance Of various striking
models experts raised champagne
glasses in appreciation and ap-
prevail.
Lelong sensed a spirit Of content
rnent and good hunor in interpret
ing feminine wishes and achieved
artistic triumphs withe the accom-
panying soft music Of an orchestra.
silhouette Little Changed
The silhouette is destined to re-
main long and slender, with full
ness placed particularly at the back
Of the gown, the hips continuing
form-fltted with marked width be-
ginning anywhere from above TO
lust below the knees.
Hens are voluminous and waist
lines are all draped or belted.
Trimming effects are placed at
the hips or the back, signaling a
new departure consisting of pleats
and flares.
Informal clothes have pleated
godets, ruchings, apron and fishwife
effects for afternoon, with box
pleated volants providing the most
striking feature for evenings.
Bolero and cape effects for after
noon and evening are replaced by
a multitude of berthas, sometimes
dropped, leaving the upper arm
bare, or used diagonally or covering
both arms to the elbow.
Sleeves Short for Afternoon
Short sleeves especially distin-
guished the afternoon frocks. Decol-
letes are extremely moderate, with
the backs remaining decidedly low,
both generally pointed.
Looped bows or jeweled ornaments
generally are favored for the back.
The spiral volant, starting from one
shoulder and encircling the hips to
form basque, ending in deep
volant kneeward, shows new de-
velopment.
Evening cloaks are knee length,
sumptuously trimmed with fur ef-
fects of ruching and Capelets remi-
niscent of the eighties. Only the
most formal are longer.
Attractive color combinations are
introduced for evening, with the
wrap sharply contrasting with the
gown. as in green lame over Dor
deaux chiffon or chestnut brown
over ivory.
Black Is Favorite
Black still predominates, but many
charming ensembles are in sap
pnire blue. pale pinks. grays, deep
green's. Here Lelong is seen at his
best contrasting these colors with
the richest materials.
For morning and afternoon wear,
greens, browns. navy blues and dark
bordeaux are emphasized. Dull sur
face fabrics prevail, with many
shortpile velvetS all giving an i'm
preston of luxury and dignity.
Most fancy materials are reserved
for sports clothes. The lengths ap-
pear stabilized. with sports clothes
amply covering the knees; afternoon
dresses varying from mid-calf to
ankle. depending on the degree of
formality, and evening gowns just
of the floor.
Flat furs are used for yokes, cuffs
and basques for afternoons. For
evening, astrakhan, broadtail, fox
and skunk are most used in collars,
large and intricately shaded.