Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-07-06

made with entire harmony and we will
leave Japan at the end Of the week with
our solidarity intact.
We have been sightseeing here in
Kyoto somewhat more leisurely than in
some other places. And Kyoto calls for
slow action, for there is much to see.
There are so many ancient temples and
shrines that the tourist mind Is bewil-
dered. There are other things to note
and admire than the seats of religious
worship, the quaint shops and the busy
And always the people, who here in
Kyoto seem to be peculiarly unchanged
by the new civilization.
Gable Car Used.
One Of the great sights" of the an
Gent capital is Mount HieiApronounc-
ed "Hee-a-ee'-which Is some $500
feet above sea level and dozen miles
or so from Kyoto. We drove yesterday
morning to the foot of the mountain,
where we took cable car that is
hauled up a very steep incline for the
greater part Of the distance toward the
peak. It is a dizzy, wonderful ascent.
The day, however, was unpropitiouS for
extended views, the air being strangely
thick and smoky, yet as we stood on
the landing level we could imagine, the
remarkable scene that on a brighter
day would be spread before us for many
miles, a series Of mountain peaks and
densely wooded slopes making a fasci-
mating panorama.
But we were not at the top. We
still were considerably below the point
at which the Buddhist monks of old,
the famous lighting monks, made their
home centuries ago. We did not try
the ascent, but walked around the
shoulder Of the mountain and entered
an aerial tramcar that Is hauled across
a deep valley by cable. The car is so
small that it had to make two trips to
carry our entire party, but we all as
Sembled safely on the other side of the
pit, which requires four minutes to
cross, four terribly long minutes.
Then began a. remarkable walk OF
about a mile, through a cryptomeria
forest which is alone worth desperately
dangerous travelling to see. These trees
are centuries old. Placed with very
careful relation to the mysterious ele-
mentS Of the air-eSpecialiy with re-
gard for the dragon point" the north
east, from which comes the most men,
acing force-are numerous temples and
monasteries. They appear suddenly out
Of the trees, venerable structures, their
roofs made Of bark, sometimes two or
three feet thick, laid on hundreds Of
years ago.
These temples are among the hottest
places in Japan. To them 60 many pill
grims from all over the country. On
our way down yesterday afternoon we
passed one Of these itinerant wor-
shippers. Clad in white and beating a
small drum as he walked, he was on
his way up the mountain, perhaps in
tending to visit every one Of the sew
eral score on that elevation before
going on to the next group. Some Of
these pilgrims OF certain sect UNDER
take to visit every Buddhist temple OF
to accomplish the task.
Slid Down the Hill.
Our walk brought us to another cable
tramway. Down below JUS we had for
some minutes been seeing through the
murky air the surface Of Lake Biwa,
Japan's largest inland body Of water.
That was our next destination. We slid
down the hill without nishap, otherwise
this would not be written, for there is
no margin between safety and disaster
on such q road.
Even as on the mountain, the view
from Lake Biwa was diSappointingly con-
strtcted by the smoky haze that filled
the air. Whereas at this season Of the
year 1t Is possible to see, In clear at
mosphere, the snow-capped summit Of
Mount Hira, to the north Of and con-
Stderahly higher than Mount Hiei, yes.
terday not a gleam Of its white peaks
appeared. The regular cone of the, local
across to the east. Sut on the the Wiao ois
the sensation was one of mystery and
allurement, The thick air seemed to be
hiding history from us, for history was
written all around Lake Biwa and its
shores are dotted with landmarks of
the ancient wars, and the religious es-
Establishments hidden away In the hills
on its shores are are innumerable.
AS we went aboard the steamer Mi
dora Maru, the queen Of the Lake Biwa
fleet, which had been especially deco
rated in our honor, the boats band
struck up the strains Of HAL, Column
bia." At least that was, what we con-
cluded the tune was intended to repre-
sent. It was not q complete success as
an. American anthem, but 1t was sim
cere, at any rate.
One Of the great industries at Lake
Biwa Is fishing. Its surface Is dotted
with many scores OF trapnets Of Pc
culiar character, great labyrinthS into
which the fish neander and from which
they have no chance to escape. They
are finally herded into a. series Of pock-
cts ana from them dipped cut for the
market by means Of pole nets. Ar.
rangements had been made for Q special
dipping" for our benefit, and some 40
or SO good-sized fish, including O carp
fully 80 inches long, were brought
aboard and put into tubs for our In
spection. I was glad that there was no
goldfish bowl" angling, as at Toba.
We steamed up the lake for several