The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1929-11-13
Fur Is Used
LaUiShyOn
Ne7O Modes
BY HENRI BENDEL
Written for NEA Service

NEW YORK, Nov. 13.-Somebody
sas said that the short Of the long
.sirted evening mode seems to be
ne coats worn over the gowns.
Any one attending smart restaur-
ants, opera, theater or evening
parties will see the truth of this
statement. Unless women have
their evening wraps fashioned very
long and trailing. the short coat is
tremendously the best solution from
an artistic viewpoint.
BY short, I mean really short, be-
low the hipline. The erstwhile
popular length. quarters,
seems to cut the trailing skirt
length at the wrong place. A coat
must be very long Or very short to
properly complement an evening
gown Of the new silhouette.
Evening Wraps Many
There are many kinds Of new
short evening wraps. Coats, how
ever. are very popular. Rich bro
caded lanes, in gold and silver with
greens, pinks, blue or yellow, are
lovely.
often a rich. almost royal blue or
deep purple makes a sumptuous
coat. Velvets are excellent. Furs
are used lavishly; chinchilla, mink,
ermine. and lapin dyed a matching
or contrasting color.
The use of lapin is growing
steadily. Often long. sumptuous
wraps are made of lapin. One such
is a cape wrap. with a dipping back
line. quite in keeping with the new
skirt line.
Collars and cuffs on the short
coats are very important. Many OF
them are furred.
One cute rose pink lame, threaded
in silver, has a mink collar that
forms a little front vestee Of the
fur, too Another ties its ermine
scarf collar chiefly under one ear.
Touch of Fur Is Excellent
Any little original touch in the use
of fur is excellent. If fur is not
used. a shirred collar or huge
cushion one made of finely tucked
fabric is a good idea.
NE SlttEtN VI LAlt1I INV oA4OA
coats are not wide. But the cuffs
often flare or have puffs Innings
are apt to be of the same color as
the predominating shade OF the
lame.
Paouin uses a flare of the same
material as the coat to break the
straight line of a charming little
orange and gold metal MORE coat.
The flare is like a deep band,
standing away from the coat in the
back and heading a deep f1ounce.
The sleeves are trimmed with silver
fox cuffs. but the collar is a soft,
crushed one of the coats fabric.
This coat tops an evening gown
of orange transparent velvet, Gre
ated by Patou. 1t has PatouS sill
houette with a high waistline and
a nodded princess line that flares
below the hips
Another example OF the new short
coat is one of my own design. 1t is
fashioned of exceedingly rich ma
terial. a green, rose and gold bro
caded lame.
The colors are excellent for coat
that may have to escort several diff
ferent gowns on various occasions.
Rose is good with all the pinkS
and creams. green is excellent to
blend with blues and both look good
with yellowS and lavenders.
Trimmed With KolinSky
Wide bands of kolinSky trim 1t.
The deep collar and revers have
wide bands of the fur. as has the
bottom line of the coat.
This coat illustrates the tendency
to emphasize the short coats short
ness, either by flare, landings Or
godets of some kind.
This is done to break the straight
line that would not be in keeping
with the fitted lines of the gown
underneath.
These coats eXemplify the phil
osophy of style change. The new
silhouette takes changes with it all
along the line. with every kind of
apparel rejecting the new feeling.