Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-08-11
BY MARGARET B. DOWNING.

al Montecatri, the King and his court
departed long ago for the Alpine lakes,
ali the modish have sought some re-
sort. so that August finds some in its
lounging robes and slippers Even the
Fourth OF July passed unnoticed ex-
cept for the flying of the flags of the
allies on all buildings where their ma
tional or business activities center.
Oficials Of the American Legion were
also at Montecattini, and of the Ameri-
can citizens OF Rome not a sufhcient
number remained to attempt any ON
day is the big day for Uncle Sam in
the Eternal City and besides the citi-
zens of the United States, residing
there a large number Of Winter
visitors are welcomed at the embassy
and a patriotic program. besides
social one, Is in order. thanksgiving
day and Christmas have somewhat
80 Mr. Fletcher, realizing that he would
not be present on July 4, assisted the
American Legion in decorating ceme-
teries, offering few remarks on each
occasion. Mr. Fletcher, who had pre-
viously resigned from the foreign
service and sailed for New York on
August 4. had leased furnished
and here there was elbow room for the
most extensive amenities. Likewise.
having brought few OF their personal
belongings except their garments. NOV
ing for them was far less troublesome
than is usually the case.
~ \
The late Gen. William F. Draper
established the chancelry of the Ameri-
can embassy in its present situation In
j. Piazza San Bernardo. He had leased
the splendid Boncompagni-Ludovis
palace in the vicinity and he later
bought its entire interior equipment
and furnished his home in Washing
ton. The Draper entertainments IN
Rome figure in literature as well as in
oficial annals and he was the last OF
American ENJOYS who made the grand
gesture All subsequent Ambassadors
lived quietly, doing their part, but at
tempting no great heights. The chan
celry is plain in the extreme. but in
the waiting room, the autographed pic
lures of all who have served as Min
lister or Ambassador prove an interest
ing study. Many. like the late Georg
Won Lengerke Meyer, served in official
roles in Washington. Several others
Wayne 3 McVeagh, Henry White,
Thomas Nelson Page and Thomas
O'Brien-were by adoption Washing
tonians. Mr.. O'Brien now passes much
time in Rome and has taken fur
nished apartment for next Winter. Mr..
Henry G. Chiffon, British Minister to
the Holy See, and Mrs. Chiffon have a
home nearby. Mrs. Chiffon and her
pretty daughters, so well known In
Washington, went to England in May,
but they will join Mr.. O'Brien, father
on Lake Michigan, for the later
Summer.
rra,,,iar AE,,seoliri iS ope of the indie.
fatigable men tvho seemingly rarely take
O holiday, and when he does 1t Is gen.
orally combined with some variety Of
public service. No visitor to Rome can
fail to feel the impass of his powerful
personality In cleanliness and order
Rome Is incompatible. for every man.
woman and child has been inspired to
take this on as personal obligation,
and this not only in Rome, but all over
italy. The friendliness and helpful cour-
tesy is refreshing to the citizens Of Uncle
Sam who crosses the French border, for
the debt and other grievances which the
French people hold against the United
States, frequently In railroad trains,
restaurants and in the streets, takes the
form of distinct, though yelled, hostility.
In pre-war days to enter French train
was to be greeted by smiles and II the
previous occupants left before you they
shook hands cordially and wished you
Godspeed. This charming custom still
prevails in Spain and Italy and to some
extent In Austria, Switzerland and Ger
many. But in France there is no ex-
change Of courtesy and frequently there
must be 1nsistence to get room for your
self and your luggage. All the italian
small boys seem to be the equivalent Of
the Boy Scout, and they will go squares
to set you on your way, and invariably
refuse any compensation for their
trouble. But with a smile, they stand
very erect, give the Fascist salute and
speed by.
The Roman pontiff, Piux XII, is an
other Roman to whom Summer brings
belated holiday, and that apt to be
much interrupted. Pilgrims from all
parts Of the world begin to arrive In
May and the procession seems endless
even through the burning days Of July
and August. This Summer, however,
the ordeal has proved too trying and
pended during the past week. If the
rumor does not prove true that the
pontiff will retire TO the papal village,
Castelli Gandolfo, high above the Al
ban Hills. at least he will get what rest
he can in the ARREST of the Vatican
chambers. In 1922 the Church of
Santa Susanna, which adjoins the
placed under the charge of the Paulist
Fathers. and there Catholic visitors to
Rome find aid In getting papal audi
ences or any other privileges they seek
from the custodianS Of the Holy See.
The Rev. Thomas Lantry O'Neill Is rec
tor Of Santa Susanna, but he is at pres
ent IN New York and the Rev. Earl M.
Jarrett is In charge, assisted by the
Rev. John Csrvlin. The late Cardinal
Bonzano. many years apostolic delegate
In washington, was instrumental in
giving Santa Susanna to the Catholics
or the United States, as he had control
or 1t. A pleasant English library ad-
joins the church and Is boon to those
who spend some weeks in Rome, where
English books are only to be found on
sale.
Mr.. Alexander Kirk, who served three
years In the State Department. now is
first secretary of the embassy in Rome
and In the absence of the Ambassador
and Of the counselor, Mr.. Thomas l..
Daniels, is in charge of affairs. with
his mother, Mr.. Kirk is comfortably
established at Villa Spada, ideally To-
Gated on high eninence not too far
removed from the center Of things to be
isolated and yet commanding a fine
view Of the superb panorama which
encircles Rome. Mrs. Kirk as well as
her son is wildly interested in their
Georgetown home and in the garden
club which held its Summer meeting
in their beautiful park and flower space.
They enjoy q charming small garden
about their villa, but. naturally, since it
is to be theirs only during the Summer
months. 1t is like the grounds of
resort rather than of home. Mr.. Kirk
rather electrified the other tenants
of the building In which the chancelry
Is located by providing wire screens for
.rris, xhA AHnArinnNa tia