The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1929-11-26
silhouette
Rational in
Late Modes
BY HENRI BENDEL
Written for NEA Service


NEW YORK, Nov. 25.-The first
clothes for wear at Pam Beach and
other southern resorts raticnalize
the new silhouette.
BY that l mean that they accept
the new, normal waistline as a fact,
but they by no m ans embrace the
full length skirts. They make much
OF daint ness, by way of re tcr-tiny
the femin!nity of winer's things, but
they are r,stra ned in Their use of
extra touches VIII Oh put coaserva-
tivencsS a a premium.
Skirts show inc-ea-ed fullness,
but are neatly fitted over svelt
hiplineS and TIE ind cti9n of full
ness comes by me ms CT gorcs and
goSets quite as much as by the ever
poD~l-r pleat
With these skirts. the blouses in
variably are tuck-ins. Coats may
be fitted, or card gam, and few
cute suits employ the Eton jacket
as a gesture to youth and jaunti-
ness
Blow at Exaggerated Modes
Palm Beach clothes indicate to me
that styles are crystallizing into new
lines, but not exaggerated ones, into
new lengths, but no set one, in.o
new feminine daintiness but no:
business. The first exaggerated
81
BecomingnesS Is more important
than bizarreness, good lines more
essential than novelty In out. But
there is no question that styles have
changed and changed beautifully.
P.nks, blue and reds vie with tue
popularity of last seasons ubiquitous
yellow. There will be many green's
too, not only because green is a coed
spring color, bit because it CON-
bines so well with other things.
Cottons and linens have quite
place in the new mode, with many
fine wolfe blouSeS with silk suits and
sometimes chiffon blouses with linen
suits. Shantung, necktie silks. ard
other novelty suits. mingle with the
usual crepeS. And there will be
many printed frocks again, though
prints tend to be dainty rather than
spectacular, Powered chiffons for
afternoon, especially.
Hats in All Shapes
Hats in al shapes and sizes.
Many women n2ed and look excel
lent in wide brims, SO there are some
! of them. They are essential
leisure class hats and very app-o-
pirate with aftcrn en- tn. IS.
One afternoon frock, for in lance,
rose chiffon figured in vlrita-
field of brCwn-ey-d SusanS in
In pa'e yellow beauty, takes a
mined, natural Baku hat,
i laced tanCing of pink, yell-w
d green narrow velvet rionon.
= This frock illustrates the rational
lied silhouette of which I spoke be-
fore. 1t fits the figure, but not too
snugly. to hipline, where the pleated
upper tier starts. There is neat
little belt with decorative buckle in
front. and the cellar is very youth
full, with revers in back aid a tie,
Too.
It is much longer than last sea-
scn'S afternoon informal things, yet
it is shorter than the smart woman
would wear few hours later in the
day.
Wool Beret in Two Tones
A necktie silk suit in a fine pat
tern of brown, red and orange. has
a yoke skirt, a cardigan with loose.
wide cuffs to its sleeves and a little
tuck-in of cream crepe de chine
with a regular Shirtwaist collar.
A two-toned orange and brown
shetland wool bret tops it, with
the fullness gathsre toward the
back. Her biege gloves are eight
button length, wrinkled down st
the wrist.
For Straws, this season. the Palm
Beach resorter can have her pick
of anything from Milan to the finest
hand-woven straw ia RIGS. They
fashion all kinds of shapes. but
many of the new ones repeat the
off-the-face line, with long skirted
back.
Such a one is made of black
riSella straw, tailored to fit the
head, W tn banding of black velvet
ribbon piercing its flared back front
crown and tying in bow in the
back where the hats brim pleatS
into q f7aripC nockliDP