New Britain herald., 1929-02-20
By JEAN PATOU For NEA Service

Paris, Feb. 20-To realize the change in fashions since last year, we must analyze both daytime and evening clothes.
 Compare the silhoucttes of the day and evening dresses - you will see that the line of dcmarcation now is acccntuatcd. The dress to be worn during the day have gained little in length. Those to be worn at night reach practically to the ground, almost entirely con- cealing the wearer's legs as far down as the ankle!
 Skirts are still short where my sports clothes are concerned. The sweater, which seemed to have &C., quired an almost static position in this type of ensemble, plays sec- cndary role this season. Vulgar ization is the cause of its aban- donment.
 Washable Sports Suits!
 It was necessary. however. to seek a new material in order to face the default of the sweater. I finally hit upon that fine washable woolen fabric which is used in England for mems shirtings and pajamas. There are one or two sports suits correspond to a new material. It seems to me that these suits correspond to a new formula besides possessing that additional advantage over the sweater - the possibility of being laundered.
 I have used wool jerseys in a small number of dresses. In every instance the material is plain and of a heavy quality, bearing the ap- pcarance of good woven wool fabric.
 English cloths still figure large ly in my one-piece tailored frocks and suits.
 It is difficult to compare the technique of the latest afternoon dresses with those of last year.s At that time I drew your attention to the overthrow of the traditions o1 preceding years. This year bring to your notice r very mark. ed evolution in the form of a de. cidedly dressier silhouette, one re plete with all the old-time tradi' tions of Haute Couture.
 The reappearance Of the "dres sy" tailored suit strikes a new note but these are more fancifu in style than ever before. I have also made the discover! of a new material for evening dresses. This is tulle 70 pre- pared as to permit of almost tall ored evening gowns. It IS sof' and devoid of the harshness of or dinary tulle.
 Four colors dominate in my col lection. As matter of fact ther' | are only two. as three of them ar' but graded shades of one color | Nasturtium red is the new color which I have called "Patoui Light - Medium and Eccentric Ca pucine." This is a tint we hat not seen for long time. Blacl is the other color.
 | Makes Use Of Fur Although my present collection is a summer one, I have made quite an extensive use of fur or i evening cloaks and on some beac1 coats. For day wear there is fo, dyed "Patou's light capucine" ane lynx. The very latest newcomer hope. prove even more feminine I is black monkey fur.
 My spring collection will. than it's predecessor. There is am pie evidence of this in the cut ant use of trimmings in afternoon gowns. tailored suits and dresses. | For evening wear. on the con trary, a rather severe, tailored effect is apparent. Also a con stant research for absolute sim plicity.
 In conclusion would say tha 10 possess good taste but to ris, nothing is not difficult proposi ton.
 In my opinion, so far as lux uriOus industry like ours is con ccrned, the sole aim should be {, combine daring without disrcspec for any Of the laws of harmon and measure.