Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-08-17
THE HOME GARDENER
BUDDING METHODS

Budding is one of the most useful
means of propagating varieties OF tree
fruits and many ornamental woody
plants that co not root readily from
cuttings. Budded trees are essentially
the same as grated ones, and budding
is really form of grating by the use
of single bud cut from a twig. The
season for doing the work, however.
is at a time while growth is active
rather than during the dormant season,
when grating is usually done.
For apple. cherry, pear, plum.
ounce and ornamental plants such as
rose and lilac, 1-year- stocks, usually
seedlings. are planted in early Spring
about to 10 inches apart, to be budded
later in the season. For peach and
other kinds that make sufficiently rapid
growth, the seed is planted where the
young seedlings are to be budded. AS
they get large enough the first Sum-
mer.
THE plants are given good culture
to encourage vigorous growth. The
best size of stem for budding is about
one-fourth to one-half inch in diam
eter, although larger or smaller stems
can be budded. Those of larger size
are not as desirable because of the
thicker bark and the difficulty OF keep
ing the inserted buds tightly in place.
The buds are usually placed on the
stems within few inches of the
ground, although special reasons may
make a lower or higher position de-
sirable. For example, by budding seed
ling rose stocks on root tissue at the
base of the stem rather than higher.
much future trouble may be avoided
from sprouts arising below the union.
The buds of the variety to be propa-
talon from
wood of the current season after
growth has progressed so that those on
the middle portion of the twig (Which
are the best for this purpoSe) appear
plump and fairly we'll matured. The
buds near the tip of the growing twig
are discarded, as they are usually not
sufficiently developed. The leaves are
trimmed off, leaving about one-fourth
inch of petiole to protect the buds and
facilitate handling. The twigs bearing
the buds selected for use. called bud
sticks must remain fresh until they
are used. They may be kept in good
condition for a day or two by wrapping
them in damp cloth or paper.
THE usual time for budding IS July,
August or early September, while the
stocks are in active growth, so that the
bark can be lifted easily and after the
buds to be inserted have reached suf-
such as Mazzard cherry and French
pear may stop growth by late Summer.
allowing but short season, while others
may be budded during period of two
or three months. 1t is important that
the bark separates easily from the wood.
If it must be lifted forcibly, presenting
a dry Stringy appearance in the cam
blum layer, the buds are not likely to
grow.
The form of budding known as
Shield budding is most generally used.
The bud is pared from the twig so as
to include the surrounding bark in the
form of a shield. 1t is inserted under
the bark of the stock plant which has
been prepared by making a cut along
the stem and another across it, then
raising the bark along the cut edge.
When put in place. the cut surface
under the bud fits Srugly against the
wood of the stem. The operation is
completed by tying tightly with several
wraps CT twinc or raffia above and be-
low, leaving only the eye itself ex-
posed. These details are shown in the
illustration. Some builders remove the
small bit of wood from under the bud,
while others leave it,
There are several other methods Of
cutting the bud and stem, one very
simple and easy way being that devel-
oped and used for many years by the
late j. F.. jones, nurscryman of Ian
caster. Pa. Instead of cutting and
raising the bark to admit the bud.
section of bark about en- inch and
half long is pared from the stem by
single downward stroke of the knife.
exposing, but not cutting into, the wood
beneath. The upper portion of the
piece of bark is cut off, leaving the
lower portion attached to the stock.
The bud to be inserted. cut as for
shield budding, is placed against the
exposed wood of the stem as shown in
the illustration. The flap of bark left
on the stem serves AS a support for the
bud until it is tied. Muslin that has
been dipped in melted beeswax and
then torn into narrow strips about
eight inches long is preferable for tying
this style of bud, covering the entire
wound with only the bud exposed.
Raf1a or other material may, however,
be used successfully.
1.-The bud is intended, ordinarily, to
remain dormant the season 1t is in
serted and grow the next Spring. The
bandage is left in place two to five