Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-03-05
EAST MEETS WEST
IN OLD TASHKENT
Central Asian City Really Is
".Two-in.0ne" Town. With
Modern Addition.

when Tashkent recently shook for
several hours, during Central Asian
earthquake native merchants continued
to drive bargains in the baZaars and the
loungers in the tearooms had some
thing new to talk about" says a bull
letin from the National Geographic
! Society.
THE traveller is reminded of Tash-
kent'S frequent tremors when he enters
the city. Few houses are more than
one-story high. so that earthquake
damage is reduced to minimum.
Russian Quarter a Bit of Europe.
using modern real estate terms,
Tashkent might be called duplex, or
semi-detached city," continues the bull
letin. THE old city-no one seems to
know how old-still stands in it's dust,
while the adjoining Russian town, built
since the Russians occupied Tashkent
IN 1866, presents modern aspect.
THE traveller who makes a long dusty
journey from Moscow to Central Asia
finds comfortable accommodations in
the Russian quarter Wide streets are
lined with elms and poplars and clear
streams flow through them. Many of
the houses are surrounded by grassy
lawns and the parks adorned with beds
of blooming flowers. The population
OF this quarter is largely European, the
shop windows display European cloth
ing and the theaters schools and pub
lie buildings seem too modern for Gen.
trail Asian city.
Blank Walls Line Streets
"But a short tram ride from the Rus
sian quarter affords the atmosphere of
TaShkent. The traveller literally rides
nNHf {knAN xHNf@A -.
from q portion of the western world
to q portion of the eastern.
MANY Of the old residential streets
are as brown and dreary as they were
centuries ago. Brown dust covers the
ground, two brown dry mud walls rise
high on each side and brown dust fills
the air. The walls form the backs of
Tashkent houses and surround large
courts. The street sides of the houses
are blank, except for doorwayS at fire.
quent intervals.
Now and then the upper limbs Of
lofty poplar rising above the inner side
Of the wall give color to the drab seem
cry. If the traveller is fortunate he
may view a Towering garden through
an open gate. or he may glimpse few
peoples peeping over the corner OF
housetop. The popies grow wild on the
clay roo1S OF TaSnKent.
People Are Shrewd Traders.
1.-THE bulk of Tashkent's 100000 in
habitants are Sarts, a sturdy, tanned
people famed for their love of bargain
ing. In the business streets and bazaarS
the native merchants. presiding over
open front shops, fill the air with sales
talk while their hands and arms as
sist, so far as milling throngs permit.
Pedestrians talk in many dialects and
shrill voices of vendors add to the
clamor. Above the din, the harsh voice
Of the caravan leader warns pedestrians
of his approach and, as his dusty, moth
eaten followers pass, the pedestrians are
forced to Stoop, jump and Sidestep to
avoid the freight protruding over the
camels' sides or being trampled under
the animals feet. Tashkent has rail-
road, but the caravan has not been dis
placed.
Native Costumes Add Color.
"The dreary aspect of the residential
streets does not apply to the inhabitants
of Tashkent The natives wear bright
colored skull cap, around which a tur-
ban is sometimes wound, and loose
fitting coat of many colors. Green tur-
bans identify the Mohammedan null
labs. Visiting Persians wear hats OF
karakul lambskin, which resembles the
fur muffs once popular among Ameri-
can women.
"A sizzling sun shines down upon
Tashkent, and travellers welcome cool
tearooms in preference to the native
cook shops. While slipping tea GUS
toners watch the itinerant BARRIERS
shave the heads of natives. With
penholderlike instrument and little
water the hair is removed, but the con-
tortions of the customers faces indicate
that the operation is a necessity rather
than a pleasure"