New Britain herald., 1929-01-05
~ JEAN PATOU
For NEA Service

Paris, Jan. HAT modes created
for the mid winter collections are
more indicative of the spring than
the dresses they are meant to &C.
company. One Of the reasons Cor
this ia that considerably more lat
itude il allowed In = hat than in
an ensemble.
In any creative sphere the eye
must work In conjunction with the
fingers but In millinery the con-
trary Is the case, because here the
handwork Is the prime factor. This
IL perhaps the reason why hat Al
ways looks newer, more decided In
character. than a new dress. An
other factor is that millinery is es-
scntially capricious In its manifest
atoms, but even 80, a hat must fol-
low the general lines of fashion al
though 1t is only an accessory.
Hats Are Bright
In spite OF the fact that my
dresses for mid-winter wear are still
subdued In hue. you will find my
hats conspicuous. for the most part.
for their note OF gaiety and bright
ness. They almost unavoidably
make you think Of a bright sunny
day In March.
Many mid-season hats are made
OF straw and felt combined, as
though expressing a tinge of regret
In this forestalling of the seasons.
The springlike aspect of the straw
is thus somewhat subdued by the
use OF felt. preventing it from look
ing too unseasonal Among the new
est ideas to be found in my salons
are hats made of straw shape
with a wide mesh like a fishing net
which In fitted onto a felt shape.
Yellow and chartreuse green on
black and beige on blue are the col
or combinations used SO far.
Modistes usually adopt a very in
dependent attitude towards dress
creators, yet they are often Obliged
to seek inspiration from dresses. To
prove this you will see in my COL
lection hats made Of straw woven
to initiate twccd-these will ac-
company the numerous tweed en-
sembles have created for winter
resorts and advance spring wear
Constant search for novelty in the
way Of materials and designs has
often led me to create both my own
colorinGs and designs for many of
my collections. This now applies to
my millinery department also and !
have the same eXigcncics here. | am
pleased to see that hat manufacture
crs have made a great stride tor
ward In this directio Il and foremost
among the leading novelties in
straws Is the fancy Bangkok. These
are now being shown in nn"h"r
Of new designs worked on the s'ra"
itself. lending an even more femi-
nine note to the now models.
Another newcomer is the ''fcu're
peau de CANT" or glove felt. This
is as soft to the touch and as PHI
able as the finest kid glove and will
enable Partisan modtstes to exercise
their inimitahle hardwork to 'cNen
greater advantage than heretofore.
Differences tn Arise
There will he occasion for many
controversies in the near future r"-
garding the length to be given 20
the back OF brims and crowns. This
will be but a repetition Of what We
in the world Of Heute Couture have
gone through the last few seasons
in connection with the length of
skirts.
AN this Is naturally brought about
by the threat on the part of many
women to abandon the hob and Yet
their hair grow. 7 think. for my
part. that we are about to enter an
other phase 81 fashions which will
certainly mean longer hair. II 7 an,
right. then modistes will certainly
be called upon to modify the back
~ hats. There is certain period
when short hair is lett to grow that
vii, cbliRe women TO hide their
rare during the day. consequently
hat hrms or crowns will have to
descend we'll below the usual lines.
/ " only 10 cover w the unbecom-
incnoss OF this ira OajtOrv period