Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-09-15
Maria Gay Offers
Black With Brown
in Notable Example
of Latest Type in
HatsParis Reports
Show Present. Ten.
denotes Abroad, and
Indicate M atching
and Dresses.
BY HELEN DRYDEN.

lie other factors which make up the
1Semble.
The degree of formality or informal
Y Of the ensemble must be consid- !
red first. for it determines the type OF
ne hat. A velvet turban and suede
jumps are an excellent selection If
hey are to be worn with an afternoon
pstume, but they should not be substi-
lted for low-heeled oxfords and felt
eret when sports or street suit IS
orn.
Once YOU have decided on the type
your hat the problem of color arises.
he hat may harmonic or blend with
ne dominant color note, or 1t may
latch the shoes. bag and furs.
Whether the new lines. the some
that uncompromising off-the-face flare
for even the hats with brims reveal
huch Of the forehead and all of the
Eebrows-and the out of = the side
,idth are becoming, is Of secondary
onsideration. For def fingers can
Inch in brims and adjust the sculp-
lral drapings until they defy the years
nd accent the best features. Hats.
oday, are so flexible, made so often
Yithout Innings and mounted OH bands
Fhch can be made to conform to the
ontour of the face. that they may be
elightfully individualized.
X
The beret, with its overt eyebrow
line, banishing the softening effect
the hair. requires ingenious manipu-
ton to make it fiattering to any ex-
ept the young and piouant and those
no carry a baby face through the
ears True. the angle at which it Is
forn-and this may be rakish because
the nonchalant type of the hat
oes help to make 1t more wearable.
Agnes was the first to introduce
|erets. This season she is interpreting
hem in tweeds. strips crocheted to-
Eether. Others are made of felt-one
II the simplest being of black with
ATTN ribbon encircling the bandeau ana
catching up the brim over one eye.
sometimes the felt is stitched to look
ike tweed or embroidered in wool.
There are also jersey berets. Chanel
makes them to complete jersey suits.
With them for sports: and the street,
matching scarfs are worn: Tweed shoes
Ind bag may be worn with matching
weed beret.
AS type hats, demanding certain
personality to carry them off, we may
classify tricornes and bonnets with
berets. The felt tricornes which are
made on rather irregular lines must be
vorn with certain dash. The bon
bets made of betting or satin ribbon.
nd fitted close to the head, are some
lines Softened by " cut just over
he left eyebrow. A bow placed at the
hape Of the neck gives becoming width.
Since we have been deprived of the
iattering effect of a brim across the
ront of our hats. the designers have
recognized the need for much brim at
he sides or other devices. such as
Fears" and outstanding loops, to give
width.
Probably the greatest OF all changes
2n hat fashions this, season is seen in
he crown. 1t has become very shall
ow in the front and deep in the back,
that it gives an n-the-back-of-the-
cad effect.
f. The treatment Of the back Of the
NTH which it Is to be worn. II the
ollar is built to stand out, the back
Sf the hat will continue to show the
ape effect. With fur collar that
hows a tendency to hug the neck one
hould wear q hat shortened and fitted
snugly to the neck as it is to the
orehead.
Milliners have taken advantage OF
he return Of the feminine and formal
b clothes They have succeeded in
ringing back the more formal sort OF
lat which is usually of velvet, including
anne, or of soleiI.
+ y \
THE most formal hat is turban made
entirely OF velvet When 1t is
ombired with felt or soleil, it loses |
bme of it's formality. That the fabric,
ather than the type, determines the |
egree of formalitv is shown by SuZy's
eret developed in turquoise velvet.
fstou's beret. although of tan felt. is
iven formality by veil over the eyes.
In bringing back the trimmed hat
he designers have wisely shown much
restraint Many hats depend on their
Ina ping for their chic. Others feature
combination of two fabrics or con-
5rast the reversible surfaces OF soleil
,r vis-a-vis. Still others are entirely
made of panne velvet, satin or betting
.ibbon. Again a two-color combination
IF ribbon serves as trimming.
The hand touch Is emphasized in
hats as well as dresses. Shirrings Just
IS close as It is possible to make them
rim the brirns, while clusters OF Sl.ir-
-ings are used to draw the brirns close
10 the head, to At the hats TT the
pack, cor to indent them at various
points and thus break the too severe
inc. Inverted seams. done by over
lasting, are also effective. A few feath-
er fancies and quilts are used to strike
The color note.
he Monnier has numerous clever ideas |
In fnsets of contrasting materials,
especially of fiat fur. She invariably |
chooses galyak because 1t is the least
furry in appearance and, therefore,
Doesn't have to match the furs of the |
.oat. On 4 beige felt hat the fabric |
Isl cut out in the shape Of butterflies |
.nd the openings Allied with matching |
yalyak. Panne velvet is used IN the
same way. X X 4 y
an some of the oressy hats there
~ are inner brims that hug the |
cheeks like the lace caps under the |
vide hats of the eighteenth century !
They may be gray. black or beige |
or bright colored Vei-
turquoise or rose. Il
AS the majority of the FAN suits ann
.oats are brown, brown hats are Inn
,ortant for Autumn. Various shades |
# beige and tan to match the furs |
viii also be favored. The browns nave |
, red or russell tinge, although browns |
With the purple cast are becoming
smarter. Many red hats are keyed to
The red note in the tweeds, with whIch
tlsey are worn, although for general
year the wine shades are preferred.
Capucine Is the accent color, with
blown and tan for sports.
BLACK is always good. Green hats
,Aruonize with tweeds and also with
rich hunters and bottle green's of silk
n wool ensembles. The bright tones
# velvets, such as the turquoise and
he rose shades used by Reboux. are
smart for the afternoon hat.
AGk 4 *
IS A RE the new hats becoming?" Is
\ question we naturally ask on see
ng those with the brims turned abruptly
back in front, or without Q brim OF any
sind. We have so long hidden behind
HE protecting cloche that to present q
mare forehead strikes us as bit star
tIEnea-and even the cloches have this