davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Perfectly Groomed
Woman May Use
Every Type as Long
as Appear ance e
Makes One Cons.
ciouS of None of
7 h e m - Chemical
Effect on Skin Re.
quires Attention.

One of the most important things a
modern beautician is taught at scien-
tific beauty school is the difference be-
tween the use and abuse Of cosmetics.
If you had an opportunity to attend
such school you would learn that these
much-maligned aids to beauty-if they
are properly used-are sanctioned by the
highest authorities. The perfectly
groomed woman may use every type Of
cosmetic as long as her appearance
makes you conscious of none of them.
= In the modern beauty school you
learn to use cosmetics with care as %
the ingredients. The chemical effect
upon the skin and the right shade tn
use are both important points to study.
The substances which enter into the
rouges used for makeup contain heavy
metals such as iron, silica, carmine or
some aniline chemical. They do not as
rule produce any harmful effect
Those whose skins are affected by ami
line dyes, however, should be sure that
mineral ground colors have been used
for coloring matter.
The modern woman buys sometimes
three kinds of rouge, as she buys three
kinds of powder. Because the suns rays
make colors appear darker, she selects
the lighter shade for her daytime wear.
Different tones are given to colors by
artificial lights and SO for evening wear
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Clothes Should Be Smart but They Must Also Be Becoming
Suitable for Individual Personost Effective Results Obtained
by Striking Compromise in Selections Should
Paid to Hats Which Must Conform Shape of Head
ton of FeaturesEvening and Street Dresses

expense of being up to date. She is def
initely woman of her own times.
Women who dress most successfully
are always women who strike a COM
promise. They realize the Importance
Of conforming to the prevailing ideas
Of smartness, but they keep In mind the
Importance of selecting clothes that are
most suitable and becoming to them
selves as individuals.
X 4 X \
QUITE apart from ones natural in
" clinations in this matter, there
are some women whose forms and fea~
lures are such that they appear to best
advantage in clothes that are essential
ly smart, while there are other women
who pale into insignificance or look
commonplace when they follow too
closely the demands of smartness. This
is especially true of hats. Shape of
head. formation of features, coloring
facial expression even are all concerned,
and this season the brimleSs closely
fitted hat showing considerable forehead
Is undoubtedly smart, but is just as un-
doubtedly trying to many women.
On the other hand, there are good
looking hats somewhat less striking in
their smartneSs that are much better
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Use or Abuse of Cosmetics

you should select more vivid rouge
and lipStick.
You learn that the best rouge for the
skin is the cream rouge. It is usually
made with base of paraffin or mineral
jelly.
The best type Of rouge for sports is
built on the vanishing cream with which
suitable amount Of coloring matter
has been dissolved in alcohol. This
makes transparent covering which Is
not affected by moisture, but which can
be removed with soap and water.
In making up the beautician learns
to apply the rouge to round faces, put
ting the apex Of the triangle near the
nose and to touch the chin with rouge,
providing it is a pretty chin.
If you have a long, thin face, rouge
should be applied near the temple and
ears. No matter what the shape of
your face may be, remember that color
too vividly added to your cheeks takes
something away from the coforing CT
your eyes and lips.
Evening star., 1929-12-01

well, I'm sure they all need it,
said his mother. Anyway, little folks
shouldn't have feelings like us older
folks"
"Oh, I haven't any feelings, haven't
I! Well, just guess have. I'll take
the old coat and eggs and tickets back,
but I'm not going to say word Haven't
any feelings 1 like that! Huh!".
A year or so later his father re-
marked to his mother one night: II
can't understand what's coming over
that boy of ours. He's as cross as two
sticks, and no matter what you say to
him he's ready with same smart Aleck
answer. He's got a good home and
don't see what can have changed him
So"
I was just thinking that. too, lately,
Joe. He acts as though he was just
going to be insulted always. wonder
what's done it?'
I'm sure I don't know. Oh, say,
Jennie, did you speak to Earl about
stopping at the bank about my check
book tomorrow at noon? I distinctly
told them about stamping it and they
left the middle initial out of my name.
Wait! I'll tell him myself. Earl-oh,
Earl! Tomorrow want you to j.. /. :"
Wed like to say. ~'ThiS Is the end.
There isn't any more"
But alas and alack, there Is no end.
Earl is still the goat.
1t isn't fair and it isn't right to ask
children to do things we wouldn't do
ourselves
Evening star., 1929-12-01
BY HELEN DRYDEN.

TT Is in evening clothes that we see
just how gracious and graceful,
subtle and sophisticated, the new
fashions really can be. Here you
have the ftted, slim silhouette at
its best-molded bodice and slim hips
accented by full skirts that reach at
least to the ankle, often to the floor
and may even trail along it.
This great length Of skirt is at
tained In various ways. The skirt
may fall in uneven points from panels
or circular fiounces attached at the
sides, or snugly swathed hips may be
elongated in the back with two split
panels, falling to the floor and pos
sibly dragging along. Then there are
frocks which fall full and long, evenly
all round, touching the floor or per-
hapS jagged in petal points. Other long
skirts are split, sometimes in front and
again at the sides. Still others temper
their length by transparent founceS
from the knees down or a deep hem
band OF tulle. Not a few are elongated
by tier below tier, or circular fiounces
Spirally descending, the last trailing of
into train
This length of skirt is increased by
raising the waistline to what was for
merly considered normal In some ex-
treme models it is so high as to suggest
the mode of the Empire and in other
gowns 1t is still rather indefinitely To-
Gated at the top of the hips. Patou
has decided on the natural Waistlire
and frankly marks it with a belt
5tened with a jeweled buckle.
y X
WHILE heightened skirt and high
" waistline are the outstanding factors
in our evening dresses. the treatment
Of the back also is emphasized. No one
need hesitate TO turn the back. for even
though the v or u shaped decolletage
may be rather startling it is softened by
lapel, capelet, jabot. semi-loose panels
hanging from the shoulder, or a bow
placed over the hips at one side.
Among evening fabrics, lanes are the
newest, soft, supple and sometimes sheer
and delicately patterned. Then there
are velvets, radiant and supple the
transparent, panne and chenille types.
The brocades, some with metal threads,
others patterned in velvet some stiff
and formal such as Louiseboulanger
Lses for her bouffant gowns, others bro
caoed on sheer grounds. With them
should be claSsed failles, taffetas, plain
and flowered in soft. faded colors, and
fnoires which are cleverly bowed, with
low dipping panels to give the length
y 4
SATIN retains the first place as 9
- general favorite, dull and stiff satins
lustrous panne satins and crepe satins
which afford the opportunity to COM
bine matte and brilliant surfaces in
irregular, vertical sections and trellis
effects.
Flat crepe and crepe de chine make
some of the most sophisticated of the
simple evening gowns. OF sheer fabrics
net. fine tulle, jersey tulie and coarse
h f1sherman's net are newcomers anc
: great favorites. Lace is often combined
with them, although 1t has a fashion
Evening star., 1929-12-01

do that isn't worth her salt! You
don't, care about anything any more
or how the place looks. Oh, helll"
"It's q lot warmer there than it Is
here. I bet" bis wife answered. still
cheerfully, pulling a sweater closer
around her shoulders.
Her husbands wrath leaped up again.
"You don't curl your hair and my
socks aren't mended, and look at the
dust on that buffet! Just look, I tell
you! What do you do with your time?
Why don't you put some system into
your work?"
This is the way they lived happily
ever after" Sally announced to the
percolator after her husband had gone
Il look like a rag doll and have about
as much punch as pink lemonade. But
this is where I stop!"
a business office was obtainable, so. she
proceeded to get it back. Then she
hired capable woman to care for
the twins and the housework.
But woman'S place is in /. the
home" Harry said, as though he had
discovered a startling new truth. 8,
Then Sally opened up. Not II q
woman can't make q success of that
home" she said. "I'm doing the thing
for which I'm htted now. I'm getting
back my enthusiasm and I'm ready
to play once in Z while instead Of
Hopping down like q kitchen mop!
Besides, the househand the twins are
in capable hands. It's better business
arrangement all around, and I thank
you for suggesting it, Harry!"
He admitted that it was much bet
ter, and gradually came to believe that
he was responsible for the new order
And, in part, he was.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON.

THAT grocery man knows better than
to send me bad eggs. After all the
money I've paid him in the last five
years you'd think he'd try to keep me
for a customer"
Mrs. Barlowe pushed away the egg
box with disguised sniff. After school
you march right down with them, Earl,
and tell him exactly what said
But, Nom, don't like to. He's kind
of a nice man. Mebbe he didn't know
the eggs were bad"
"No-maybe the farmer he bought
them from didn't tell him . There's
the telephone! Run and see who it is. !"
'Well-v-Who was it? Your face is as
long as your arm"
1T was just Dad. He says to get his
new suit and take it up to the tailor and
tell him about the lining in the coat"
Whats wrong with the coat? 1t
looked all right when he tried it on last
night He didn't say anything about it
this morning"
II don't know. Something about him
gettin' to thinkin' this morning that
the tailor was to put silk in the sleeves
and then not doing it. hafta lug it UP
and tell him to change it."
Just then Aunt Molly called down.
stairs Say, Earl, don't go yet, will
you? I'll be right down. There's some
thing / want you to do .or me after
school"
For goodness sake. Whatta you folks
think am? A lightning express, huh?
Every day and every day 1 got more
stun to do after school than you cd
shake stick at"
But Aunt Molly hadn't heard. Just
then she ran down the stairs with a
small envelope which she held out to
her nephew. Go past the Alwyn Thea
ter on your way home, that's a good
boy, and ask the man at the box office
II he can't do better than the twelfth
row for Saturday matinee If he doesn't
give you something better just tell him
what said, too"
Three nice jobs got" scowled Earl.
pa Sass tne grocer sass the tAilor and sass
Evening star., 1929-12-01

selections for the woman who has not
the qualifications needed to wear severe
| hats. Some sort of brin always adds to
the becomingneSS of a hat, because 1t
casts a half tone above the eyes that
SoftenS the coloring and lines of the
face.
In evening dress the question of
color becomingness is not such a diff
f1cult one for most women as it was
in the days when most well-bred women
in this country looked askance at the
use Of makeup. The list of colors that
one cannot wear to advantage is greatly
diminished, If not reduced to a zero,
when one Is willing to make use OF
powder, rouge and possibly lipstick,
and knows how to do so cleverly.
X y n X
TN street dress, careful makeup can
do something, but not so much. For
one thing there Is a growing belief
among well-bred women in this country
that obvious makeup is in rather bad
taste for the street. Besides, even
Skillful makeup cannot entirely camou-
mage the natural tones Of the skin when
wind and cold air have full play. The
woman whose skin takes on a purpliSh,
rose tint in cold weather looks far bet
ter in blue or green than she does in
red or dahlia, though any of these
purpliSh or reddish tones might be truly
becoming under the more favorable
lights and in the more temperate at
mosphere of her own or a friends home
in the evening.
There are some women in their in
siStence on becomingnesS first who
hesitate at wearing bare arms and low
cut evening gowns unless their arms
and shoulders are strikingly beautiful.
This is. of course, going too far. On
the other hand the woman with promi-
nent shoulder blades and a poorly de-
veloped back should not wear one of
the extremely low-backed evening gowns
merely for the sake of SmartneSS. The
fashion world Is SO full of such a
variety Of necklineS that there is no
reason why any one should not always
appear to advantage in conventional
evening dress. There are evening
gowns cut fairly high at the front and
low at the back, others fairly high at
the back and rather low in front,
dresses with low necks and drapery to
hide Ill proportioned arms, and sleeve
less dresses fairly high at back and
front.
THE very long evening gown is I'M
doubtedly the last word in smart
ness, but there is wide variety In the
way the long skirts are treated and the
older woman should bear in mind tnaG
while . simply draped long skirt adds
charm and dignity to her figure the
skirt with ruffles and puffs, becoming
as 1t may be to the slender young
figure, Is entirely unbecoming to the
older woman.
In choosing the skirt length of your
street clothes bear in mind that the
long, slender skirt gives an appearance
Of height to short figures that adds to
as well as becomingness.g On
the other hand, the woman who feels
That she is little too tall does we'll to
retain fairly short skirts as long as
fashion permitS-not of course, the
1nee-length skirts, which are quite out
of the picture and never were becoming
10 most women.
kConxririft iA1nl \ :.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Test the Oven.

A safe way Of testing the heat of the
oven for cake and pastry making is to
place sheet Of white paper on the oven
shelf. If it turns dark brown immedi-
ately, the oven is too hot for any cook
ing. If, when it Is left in for about
four minutes, 1t becomes a golden
brown. the oven is just the right heat
for puff pastry and bread. To be suit
able for small cakes and short pastry
it should turn light brown in four min
utes. II it should turn dark yellow, It
will be right fer large cakes.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Cream of Tomato Soup

One quart tomatoes, one-quarter tea
spoonful soda, four tablespoonfuls but
ter, four tablespoonfuls flour, one quart
milk, one tablespoonful salt, one-half
teaspoonful pepper.
Stew tomatoes slowly one-half hour.
In the meantime melt butter, stir in
flour and cook over low fame, adding
milk slowly; add soda; stir into sauce
and serve Immediately.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
BY HELEN WELSHIMER.

Sally Burnham knew that her hus-
band was disgusted with life. The toast
was too hard, the eggs were too soft
and the morning paper hadn't arrived.
Moreover, the furnace smoked and the
twins had practiced a duet all night.
"You forgot to put the peach mar
malade on the table," the master of
the house announced in deep tones as q
king might remind the lord high ex-
ecutioner that head or two had
neglected to fall.
"We're out of it," Sally answered.
"It does cover a multitude of burned
places on the toast, though. I'll get
some this mornin: :" She was too tired
to care what he thought.
Harry threw down his napkin, upset
his coffee cup and arose. 1T seems
to me you might take your house,
keeping q little more seriously. All
you have 10 do is look after a pair
of harmlel twins and cook a couple of
meals Q dsyl ANY woman who can't
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Marks on Wood.

Marks caused with hot plates or hot
water Jugs, ETC., on polished tables NAV
be removed by the following applica-
ton: Mix a tiny pinch of salt with a
little olive oil and rub into affected
parts. If the mark doesn't disappear
with the first application, allow the nix
ture to remain on, and in few hours
time apply the salt and oil again, rub
bing with circular movement.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
They Go Together.

Roasted meats-Mashed potatoes or
potatoes Drowned in the pan with the
meat.
Broiled steak-Creamed potatoes.
Roast pork-Baked potatoes
Roast chicken--Mashed potatoes.
Roast lamb-Mashed potatoes.
Lamb chopS-Baked potatoes.
Tomatoes in some form with veal.
Lamb-Serve green beans or peas.
Roast chicken-Creamed onions and
a sour jelly.
Roast pork-A green vegetable, if
possible, and apple sauce.
Evening star., 1929-12-01
BY MARY MARSHALL.

THERE always are, always have
been and doubtless always will
be women with whom smartness
Il comes before becomingness IN
dress, and there always are, al
ways have been and doubtless always
will be women with whom becomingness
is OF prime Importance. To be sure, the
quality that some women consider as
more essential than becomingneSs is not
always called smartnesS, but it always
exists when women take thought of the
appearance of their dress.
When you analyze the case of smart
ness versus becomingness you will see
that the motives behind the desire, first
OF ALL to wear clothes that are becom-
ing differ from the motives behind the
desire to wear clothes that are primarily
becoming. The difference is really
temperamental one. The woman who
wants becoming clothes even though she
may have to sacrifice little Smartness
to this end is an individualist; she wants
admiration for what she is rather than
for what she knows about fashions. The
woman who is bent on being smart likes
to keep abreast of current trends, she
wants to be attractive, but not at the
Evening star., 1929-12-01

Fitted Slim Silhouette Is Here Presented its While Great
Length of Skirt Is Attained in Various WayExtreme Results
Are Achieved by Raising Wasne What Was Formerly Con-
sdered Norma-Treament Also Emphasized in
Models-Satn Retains First Place in Popular Esteem.
Evening star., 1929-12-01

ranking of its own, especially in black
and blonde, beige and brown tones
While black is the invariable first
choice, white and the off-white tones
are almost as popular. Then there are
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Wife Suggests Better Plan

When Everything
About the House
Goes Wrong and
Husband Develops
Crouch, She Takes
Her Old Job and
Establishes New Sys.
tenn HON e Is in
Capable Hands.
Evening star., 1929-12-01

pastels, shell pink, Nile green, aqua
marine and turquoise blue, yellow and
the deeper tones of the jewel tints such
as emerald, sapphire and ruby.
(CopyriRht, 1921
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Prettiness VS.. Chic.

Dance dresses delight this longer they
nave gained
and rhythm " = ~ 7'
American in
evening.
pretty rather
that should be avoided - ~ ~ e''0 e s'A'N'
- One appealing but in no way to give the
Christmas
Evening star., 1929-12-01
Child as Shock AbSOrber

When the Boy Is Used
to Scold Various
Tradesmen for Their
Mistakes, He Is in
D Danger of Being
Affected by His Ex-
perience S-DO 1t
Yourself.
Evening star., 1929-12-01

The camel is the only HNmesticated
animal that has never bee found in O
wild state. -. :,
Evening star., 1929-12-01

TT Is in evening clothes that we see
( Just how gracious and graceful,
subtle and sophisticated, the new
fashions really can be- Here you
New Britain herald., 1929-07-06

Woods about his alleged actions to- wards the girls, Nuille said he was on his way home from Bristol about II o'clock and they were waiting iol a trolley car. He gave them q ride, knowing where the father of one Oi them formerly lived. and on reach ing the place where he dismissed them he felt he had taken them far enough. He denied that he acted improperly towards the girls.
 "Your generosity suddenly evap- orated didn't it?" Mir. Woods re marked.
 Judge Traceski asked Officer Blanchette about the alleged disobe- dience of the whistle and the officer said he pulled alongside Nuille three times and ordered him 10 pull to the curb, but he continued to speed towards home until the off, cer crowded him to the side of the road on the third attempt.
 Fines Total S20
 A fine of S15 was imposed on the charge of speeding and a fine of 8 was imposed on the charge of dis obeying the officers order to stop.
New Britain herald., 1929-07-06
Boston Opium Joints
 Raided This Morning

Boston. July P}-ln simultan- eous raids carly today more than score of federal narcotic and prohl- hition agents. augmented by the Boston police narcotic squad. raided six alleged opium joints in the Chi nese section. made more than dozen arrests and seized quantities of alleged drugs.
 Although they were armed with search warrants. the laiding squ2ds were forced to use sledce hammers freely to batter down doors. The en- tire quarter was aroused by the sud den descent Of the raiders and the streets swarmed with Chinese and other attracted by the raids,
 Those arrested were to be ar raigned in municipal court later in the day.
New Britain herald., 1929-07-06
INTO DEATH
 CENTERS ON BOXER
(Continued From First Page)

and led to reports that his status in the case may be changed.
 When first questioned, Wilson de- nied that Marlow had answered the telephone in the restaurant in West Fifty Second street where they with four others dined on the night of June 27 and from where Marlow went to his death in Flushing. Queens.
 Boxer Retracts Statement
 Confronted with the statement of Humbert J. Fugazy, that Wilson as well as Marlow had used the tele- phone, the former boxer admitted both calls. He said his call was made to a racetrack bookmaker, Danny Murray.
 Police yesterday brought a book maker known as Danny Murray to headquarters. Murray said he did not know either Wilson Or Marlow and Wilson said the man brought in was not the one to whom he tele- phoned.
 Marlow Linked With Yale
 The questioning of Murray, whose real name is Dominick Piccoro, Po- lice Commissioner Whalen said. re- vealed a business relationship be- tween Wilson and Anthony Caro- fano, alias Little Augie," who was a lieutenant of Frankie Vale Rronk- lyn gang leader. slain last summer.
 Marlow and Yale at one time were known as close friends, but asso- ciates said they fell out over money matters shortly before Yale was shot
 Piccoro told police that Wilson at one time had been associated with Little Augie" in gambling enter prises in the Broadway district.
 Carcafano, who was picked up in the crowd at the Schmeling- Pauline fight and questioned about the Mar low staying. will be brought in again to be asked about his relations with Wilson, Police Commissioner Whalen said.
 Fugazy in a second interview with missioner Whalen denied that he had been warned against enter ing the restaurant where he saw Marlow on the night of the killing.