The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1929-09-27

REQUIRED in
: Gem Choice
BY JEAN PATOU
Written for NEA Service

EAFNlO. Sept. ILL., 4 liz LAdiAl pre-
occupation of the couturier in pre-
daring his winter models always
should be to lend as much color
to his collection as is compatible
With the season.
The ideal is TO hit upon one or
two shades that will contrive to
look gay despite a wintry sky.
Throughout any important collec-
ton. therefore you will perceive
this desire to brighten up" the
somewhat somber shades set aside
for the autumn and winter.
The vogue of combining several
wildly colored materials at the neck
and sleeves with dark dress has
been a favorite method the last
few seasons.
This. together with clever in
crustation work, has somewhat
superseded the use Of embroidery
as a decorative medium.
Jewelry Reigns
Jevelry. however. remains the
most frequently worn as well as the
most popular form of decoration.
Long ago / studied the art OF syn
chronizing jewels with dress and 1t
now is quite a long time ago since
I Showed my first Jewel dresses.
Il was the absence Of embroid-
cry and the necessity of giving some
sort OF light" to clothes that
btpught about the tremendous in
fatlatiOn for fancy or rather irni-
tstion jewelry.
The principal quality of such ar
tides, which I readily recognize, is
their lack of pretentiousness. An
other quality, appealing particularly
to- women, is the wide range of
coiors that can be obtained in false
stones, enabling them to match any
fFeck.
The only fault have to find with
initiation jewelry, or rather, the
fault I have to find with the women
who indulge in this within, is that
they often make the mistake of
wearing it with formal gowns.
Such limitations undoubtedly de-
tract from the acme of smartness a
black dress can achieve.
Formal afternoon and evening
gowns having definitely come into
their own again can correspond to
their real distinction. A beautiful
necklace or pendant not only will
complete q gown of plain. although
rIoh material, but will enhance it
greatly.
The classical form is the only
one under which real art is recog-
nizable. Those people who assert
that there is never any novelty in
any form termed classical" could
nor apply this reproach to the work
of our leading jewellers.
Uancleef and Arpels are the Gre
ators Of the various pieces of jewelry
shown with my dresses and these
are all original, both in design and
coloring.
A modern diamond necklace has
none of the Rightly of pre-war days.
St1pple mountings have opened up a
vast field to jewelers.. Moreover,
they now boldly mingle sapphires,
rubies. emeralds and turquoises,
fashionine them into a galaxy of
cotor never seen before.
Importance of Jewelry
Women must remember that real
ieWelry is not always more a luxury
or even a simple and natural adj
iunct to their dress. A valuable
. necklace of pendant will often form
ansintepraI part of either an after
noon or evening dress, in the same
way as a flower or embroidery. 1t
is, more than trimming.
Women who possess a quantity
of real jewels should know instinc-
lively when and how much to wear
according to the circumstances the
clothes and the hour of the day.
Too great a number of jewels
onean informal dress are bad taste
and discretion never can be over
looked in such difficult question
as that of wearing Jewels