Milford chronicle., 1929-02-01
HOW no FINISH WOODWORK
Jane Stewart.

the walls and furnishings OF room
makes it important that it be finish
ed effectively and appropriately.
When this is done the wood trim
will set off to advantage the general
decorative scheme-whereas if it is
finished with Indifference to the
purpose of the room such neglect
will be all too evident. Much of the
general attractiveness of a room de-
ponds upon the woodwork. 1t must
be finished with this idea in mind.
In choosing a woodwork finish the
treatment should be compatible
with the wood in question. Where
the wood is in itself beautiful, well
matched in color and grain and if
the room scheme permits, varnish
finish will be best, since varnlsh
tends to accentuate the inherent
beauty of the wood, furnishing it
with protection, at the same time
Wood that is poorly matched for
color, but has a sufficiently attrac-
tive grain, may be finished with
stain. 1t is no longer fashionable,
| however, to stain cheap wood in
| imitation of an expensive one. Stain
of the natural color is preferred, or
it is sometimes better idea to
paint or enamel the wood. In this
way, any desirable color may be
satisfactorily obtained, the wood at
the same time gaining an appro-
pirate and practical finish.
ANY type of wood can be painted,
enameled or lacquered satisfactor-
lily. Present-day usage favors these
finishes and because of their suita-
bility to modern decorative schemes,
they are sometimes chosen in pref
erence to a natural finish, even fof
| fine woods Probably the most pop
ular method of finishing is to choose
the same shade of the same color
for walls and woodwork alike. This
is a particularly happy choice where
one of the pale shades is used, and
it is a choice that is always safe.
New wood that is of the open
grained type acknowledgements
rut-chestnut-etc. will require a
paste wood filler, regardless of the
kind of coating to be used. This
filler is applied directly to the bare
wood, after it has been thinned to
brushing consistency. If the filler
sets too fast the surface may be
wiped over with a thinner, such as
turpentine. After it has been al
lowed to set for about thirty min
utes the excess is wiped off with
excelsior, wiping across the grain.
The filler must then be given at
least twelve hours for drying, after
which it is sandpapered and wiped
clean with a cloth dampened in tur-
pentine.
Close-grained woods that have
never been painted or vanished
are sometimes treated with liquid
filler, or varnish thinned with tur-
pentine will serve; some painters,
however, omit this step.
New wood that is to be painted or
enameled will require a primer.
That is, a thin coat which pene-
trates the wood and makes a ground
for the actual finish. For porous
wood the printing coat should nav
an excess of linseed oil, and for
wood that is close grained, an eX-
cess of turpentine.
After the filling and printing, ii
any nail holes or cracks are present,
they must be filled with putty. Wlen
dry the surface is sandpapered
smooth. For a stained finish the
putty may be colOred with some OF
the stain.
Old wood in good condition that
has previously been painted re-
CURES no preparation for paint X
or enameling other than cleaning
and light sandpapering. Vanished
woodwork to be painted, enamelcd
or lacquered must have the gloss
removed by washing with a solution
of sal soda and water or by sanG-
papering. Too, if the wood is to be
revarnished light sandpapering is
advisable. The varnish must be re-
moved if it is desired to stain the
wood
Lacquered woodwork in good con
dition to be refnished with lacquer,
paint or enamel, requires no special
preparation. Lacquer, however,
must never be applied over re-
Gently painted or vanished surface,
nor over wood that has at any time
been stained with mahogany; also
it should be used only over finish
that is hard, dry and i'll good condt-
ton.
Paint or enamel are the most
dependable finishes for old wood,
since they completely obscure an
old battered surface, when properly
applied. Enamel is especially COM
mendable because of the hard, dur
able surface it supplies, but fiat
paint has greater hiding properties.
In using enamel either fiat paint or
enamel undertaking is used for the
two undercoats, the final coat, Of
course, being of enamel.
For a natural varnish that is not
to be rubbed, or is applied over Il
coat of stain, two or three coats will
be necessary for new work and one
or two for refinishing. For a dull
finish, obtained by rubbing, at least
three coats will be necessary and
four preferable. Plenty of time
should be allowed between the dry
ing of the varnish coats. 1t is well
to watch a vanished surface after
the application is complete. Then,
if runs, says or wrinkles occur they
can be corrected after the varnish is
set but before it has dried. A wet
cloth, wiped over a piece of soap
and then dipped in little dry pun
ice, should be rubbed gently over
the run or sag. The soap will pre-
vent the particles of pumice from
lodging in the varnish film.
Unusual effects such as antiquing,
stippling, or blending, are easily
obtained where they are. desired to
lend added interest to the wood
work. However, no matter what
the final finish or decoration, the |
work must be done |