Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-10-27
BY HELEN DRYDEN.

Ut Is in the formal afternoon costumes
that we find the true significance
of the radical change in fashions
i For the past year the creators Of
the modes have been tentatively in
Producing the longer skirt, more fitted
bodice and higher waistline, but only
in evening clothes These tentative ef-
forts have been modified and elaborated
until today we see the complete picture
in q new classification of the wardrobe
the formal afternoon costume.
Here we have elegance expressed in
rich fabrics-the finest of cloths, broad
cloths and velvety woolens; heavy silks,
satins, fables and crepes, in combination
with laces, nets and metal cloths. and
velvets, including panne, transparent,
plain and printed, and the stiff Lyons
pressed in q skirt from 3 to 6 INCHES
longer than last seasons and waist
line raised almost to the normal.
The sleek, groomed appearance OF
the small nodded hat, with brim fitting
to the neck giving a smooth line at the
back; the skirt often short at the center
front with overlapping circular panels
at sides and back: the slim molding
through the body; the simple footwear
and measured gait of the style-con-
scious wearer-all these things achieve
q silhouette which has been aptly de-
scribed as birdlike.
THE transition from our casual,
shapeless clothes is made easy by
various ingenious devices. The bo1ero
Ia one. 1t may make youthful frocks
appear even younger looking by accent
ing the high waistline, or it may be
cut to overlap and thus conceal too am
pie proportions. 1t may hang longer in
the back and curve up in front to stress
the backward movement; 1t may APP.
pear at one side only of either the back
or front, or its services may be confined
to the back where it softens-as the
bloused back also does--a weak point in
most Women'S figures. Outlined in fur
IL may break the severity of an other
wise plain Semi-fitted bodice.
Practically all scanning on the new
dresses--whether 1t is up and down OF
encircling the figure-molds the lines o.
the waist and hips, so that the wearing
of belt Ia optional. Generally 1t is oil
the fabric with rhinestone buckle Anc
eyelete, although suede is admitted ever
on evening gowns.
Fullness Of the skirt. whether gained
by cores, godets. pleats, flounCeS OF
tiers, is kept below the knees and well
toward the hemline. There are but few
exceptions TO this rule. There are skirts
in which pleats or circular pieces are
let in in sections, but these are kept
slender at the hips by the yoke, gainini
their fare as they widen toward the
hem Of the skirt. These inserts may
develop the irregular hemline or ma!
lenRtf1en into the even, all-around hem
line which now rivals the back dip.
Many coats gain their flare In thu
front from the fullness Of the fronts
which wrap we'll over to the side, Civ
ing q fare at this extreme wrap-arount
closing. And all OF them are luxurious
" furred. Often the fur Is appliouet
TO the bottom of the skirt so that l
accents the length in the back or tn
upward curve in front, or ascends iron
the hem to the hip, but only at on
eide.
" y X
BLACK is the accepted color for tn
- formal afternoon costume-blacI
broadcloth or velvet for the ensemble
and the heavy satin, faille and crep'
Eor dresses, with brown as a close sec
0nA. There u the authority OF Vionne