Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-12-01

again 10 be defeated by my old enemy-Wan-
derIust. Instead Of yielding to Venetian en-
chantments. was forming mental pictures Of
La MarmoEa's Sardinia: ancient castles, splen-
did scenery, towers and churches OF the twelfth
century left as marks Of P1San dom1natlon
the Nuraghe. cone-Shaped towers. constructed
OF lava blocks without mortar, built in pre-
historic ages for what purpose no one knows;
the giants tombs: history, strife, folklore. age
old customs. beautiful mountain women wear
ing brilliantly cOlored national costumes.
The next morning rushed out to the near
est travel agency to inquire about commune
cation with Sardinia. After considerable fum-
bling with the timetables. was informed that
q good boat left Genoa every wednesday night
for CaQIiarl with short stop in Leghorn. The
clerk and both looked at the calendar; 1t was
Wednesday-couId make it? Yes, If I caught
the eleven something train. did. and the
next day found me sitting on deck enjoying
the splendid Mediterranean sunshine.
Saturday morning we passed the famous
point Of land called "Sello del Davelo" Devils
Saddle and Cagliari came into view looking
for all the world like great crown with its
ancient Castillo still the home Of the old noble
families. built majestically on top Of hill
overlooking the magnificent bay and the rug
ged mountain chain to the southwest.
CAGLdARI, the capital of Sardinia. is
torical interest left by the many different
peoples who have occupied the island. Spanish
and Pisan influences are perhaps the most
deeply rooted, but traces of Barbarians, Romans,
etc.. are also to be found. Perhaps what i'm
pressed me most was the lovely panorama from
the BaStione, q large piazza built below the
Castillo, but overlooking the roofs of the new
city. Here the population gathers in the evening
during the warm months to take its cal fresco"
promenade.
To penetrate to the interior of the island, I
avoided trains and automobiles, as speed is
fatal to getting really acquainted with coun-
try. 50 was left the choice between horse or
one Of the tiny donkeys so ubiquitous on Medi-
terranean shores. was In no hurry and horses
are liable to fall sick; so BaIaams mode of To-
comotion appealed most to me.
On donkey back I started of for the first
leg of my journey up the cast coast; up over
the hills Of Settle FrateIli and back, through
lovely gorgeS, to the sea at Muravera, where
the innkeeper informed me I was the first
American he had ever seen. Then a long
trek TO LanuSei. On the way stopped from
time to time for q little fly fishing, and trout
were plentiful, Cd the streams have practically
never been touched. While Sardinians are
great hunters. they have interest I'm fishing
as a sport. Fishing is work. Finally we ar
rived In LanuSei and found it SO lovely, over
looking the charming and sunny Bay Of Tor
toll, that decided to rest there for q few days
before going into the heart of the island.
We set out over the mountains for Seui, with
the intention Of turning off to the right Aritzo
in the Barbagia Belvi being our destination
The trip from Lanusei to Seui and the valley
Of the F1umendOsa River are indeScribably beau
tiful. The villages of the Gennergentu (Gate
Of Silver. TOnara Belvi, Aritzo Desulo and
Fonni with their lovely women dressed in gay
national costumes. delighted me so that spent
q month wandering through them.
The weather was turning chilly in the noun
tainS, as 1t was now late Autumn; so decided
to move to Nuoro as quickly as possible and
then westward to Macomer. where I could study
the mysterious NdrIghe, and on to Bosa. the