Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-11-24
Father to the Rescue of the Cookbook

dinner prepared by her. The King came and
tasted and straightway demanded the name of
this paragon Of the kitchen When told that It
was woman, he pronounced her Gordon
bleu" in token Of the occasion.
After the French revolution came the rise or
the Partisan restaurants and names that have
been called the Michelangelos and RaphaelS Of
cookery-Robert Merilion and the greatest
name in early culinary art, Brillat-Savarin, who
left book Of amusing epigrams to testify TO
the fact that he was cultured as well as Gull
nary-minded. This was the era when the whole
French world was in a fonent over new recipes
and when the outside world journeyed to Paris
for repast. Later the names of American chefs
who created masterpieces began to appear:
Philadelphia's Minico Finell Billy SOule;
Sherry's PHILIPPE, Oscar of the old Waldorf In
New York; Antoine in New Orleans and Mme.s.
Begues, the one woman's name that shone In
the culinar armament to foreign epicures. In
her dingy little room down in the New Orleans
French quarter she held a veritable gastronmic
court for so years. 1t is told that Mark Twain.
after partakng of one of her breakfasts, ap-
preached her with the words:
Madame, have always been told that all
of the famous chefs were men, but there IL
one exception"
To which the sharp-tongued old Creole re-
piled:
And if that is the case, it is because men are
more concerned over their stomachS"
Temperament plays large part in the crea-
ton Of a good cook be he man or woman"
wrote DR.. King an English bard. "It takes
temperament to create and it takes creation to
cook we'll"
There's the matter in nutshell, and 1t may
help to explain another question of interest:
Why are bachelors declared the best ente:-
tainers and the best cooks? It has long been
conceded that the rank and file of bachelors
are men Of temperament
A INFLOW, as yopng mans fancy lightly
turns to thoughts of food these crisp Fan
days, it might convey savory atmosphere to 0
savory subject to give few famous recipes from
famous creators.
There is the pomme Castellane which take%
its name from its creator Count Castellane 1t
is glorifed potato.
Bake large potatoes in their jackets and when
done scoop out the center, leaving a generous
rim of potato on the inside. Into this cavity
stuff bit of crayfish, the mashed yolks and
whites of hard boiled eggs and plenty of cream
and seasoning. Close the top with bit Of the
plain potato and pop the whole in the oven to
come out the piece de resistance of any meal
De Wolf Hopper also has favorite potato
creation called kartoffel-kloesse. It goes Ike
this:
Take three cups of mashed potatoes and
one cup Of bread prepared as crutons and mash
together with two well-beaten eggs; add pepper,
salt and nutmeg and mold into small balls.
Drop into rapidly boiling salt water. When
they pop up twice their size and brown they
are done.
And here is the Prince of Wales Victoria
cheese creation, although it may be little diff
ficult for the American chef to prepare-for OBJ
vious reasons:
Crate half pound of cheese very fine Add
three tablespoonfulS Of ale and a small glass OF
champagne. Mix well in silver dish over the
hot-water pan for 10 minutes and serve on
toast.
Caruso was great cook, but his recipes also
were little too conviviaI in their ingredients
for American use.
After all, it seems up to the men today to pre-
serve the culinary art from threatened oblivioaiaa
With wife on diet of spinach and grape
fruit three times day and the kiddes on pres.
sure-cooked grease1ess vegetables, no pastry or
high seasoning, If the head of the house hap
pens to have an epicurean taste he is pretty
hard up unless he takes to cooking. Men have
risen up and denounced this dieting of the
ladies, because 1t will ruin her health or her
looks, or her disposition but upon it's obvious
result to his own meals there has been a strange
silence. But why be dependent when creative
cooking Is realm already SO well explored
by men?
Copyright, 1920