New Britain herald., 1929-03-25


 New York, March 25 Rt-This is fashion time for America and from the lururious salons of the cOutu riers in uptown New York to bar gain basements of the department stores farther downtown. there rises the hum of human activity impelle1 by the seasonal urge for new ward robes.
 For these thousands of women. whether they choose q large bud . get of gowns. coats and hats from the creations of fashionable Fifth avenue establishments or spread a slim allowance over few simple selections at the more commonplace stores it is only the beginning of another style season. To that army of men and women engaged in the highly technical business of filling the style needs of the nation, how ever, it is an important climax in an endless chain of designing. scouting creating, manufacturing and, most important, selling.
 Art for arts sake has no place in this business of style, The totals on the sales sheets at the end of a sea on tell the story of success or fatl- ure. Tnuke the couturiers of Paris who know the answer to their qleS- ton almost immediately after the commercial buyers showing, Ameri- cas- system involves long and anN- ious wait until the Wearcr-buyer.i have made their decisions and the much sought volume has been at tainc1.
 When madame chooses 2 creation displayed 'o her either draped about a lively maneqIin or on lifclosS, headicss plaster mold, she casts her vote in tho really important clec- ton of what is and what IS not tha seasons mode. Demand makes inc style ani when it is realized that every season Paris designers alone produce hundreds of different models. and that hundreds more ar" .'created in America as originals. variations. adaptations and modifi- cations. it readily can be seen that selecting styles cannot be a matter of snap judgment.
 Trained staffs maintained by the couturiers, stores and manufacturers are charged with the financially vital problem of deciding not only the trends of fashion from season 10 season. but the even more lm- portant applications of that trend 10 specific gowns. coats. hats and accessories. Their organization eX- tends over Europe and America and includes scouts, observers, styllsts. designers. create ors buyers, merchan- lisers and photographers.
 No source Of information Is over looked. Fashionable winter and summer resorts. hotels. theatcrs and society gatherings are constantly under the scrutiny. not particularly 10 find specific models. hut 10 dis tinCuish the trend. If extends to lines. colors, silhoue'tos' shapes and far beyond the field of apparel to furniture and household utensils.
 lbI|l l1llS llidSS bL llilOl itltt '4P II the designing and buying organlza- tions must make deductions an ] forecasts of the grad Aal changes in lines, colors and silhouetts. Woe to the designer whose changes are too radical. for the American women at large will not accept revolutionary developments within a single sea son. The styles that will be in par ticular vogue this spring probably would have failed three months ago. Bridging the gap between seasons by subtle development toward the pro- payes the way for the new creations. The buying public is ready 10 accept them on arrival.
 During the World War perio1 styles changed with amazing rapid = fly. but in times of normalcy, the development of a new siIhouett, which is the basis for all styles. covers five to ten years. It cannot be hurried or retarded. There are no basic rules or preCedonts worth following. Each style development Is it's own law.
 The influences of Paris. Fifth avenue. Palm Beach, Michigan ave nue and a host of others are blend d and harmonized to create q style that retains the characteristic of the various sources. The style-determin- ing machine works with the prcCl- sion of the engineer geared to the flair O. the artist, but there are no calipers 10 check human perform ance and it's errors will hang in the