New Britain herald., 1929-04-19
RY JEAN pATOU
For NEA SERVICE

| PdflS, Aprll 19 - AS eacn season comes around. styles that eventual ly will represent Fashion are some
 what vague. although each cou- turier has one or several characte istc styles of his own.
 I am not a bit interested in the efforts of my colleagues except to avoid doing or creating styles along their lines After all, this amounts 10 working out new ideas on old ! themes.
 Any collection worthy of the name is usually constituted along the fol- lowing lines: one portion of it accen- tuates styles launched preceedingly the remainder is composed Of models totally different both in line and style. These generally are an in dication of quite another set of ideas as well as q complete disre- gard for the so-called established fashions.
 It's WOman'S Privilege
 The greatest number of these new ideas are somewhat feebly repre- sented and rarely outlive the sea son. One of the rare-perhaps the solc-eXce ption 10 this rule was seen in the return of the bolero. The bilero has seldom been a fun damental feature of women's dress, yet since its return three or four seasons ago after q considerable ab- sence from fashions, it maintains its position. It is still being used as pleasant decorative element. Prob ably the reason why it still lives on
 is the fact that when it did reappear it was not entirely new therefore women did not rave about if. We all know that the exclusive object of woman's favor rarely outlives a sea- son. in fashions at any rate.
 Styles seems 10 be proceeding un- hesitatingly in one direction. The new collections will show you con- secration of modes offered to wom- cn three years ago. At the time these were deemed 10 be but pass ing vagaries. as they showed dresses with fullness massed at the back and long skirts at q time when the ab- surd chnmise frock was worn in discriminatory.
 It is evident 10 the initiated. Of course, that my recent evening gowns are very specialized. They arg the result of three years work. One source Of great satisfaction 10 me, however. has been to actually meet women wearing this particular type
 tr iyooa after all, is the one factor that can influence a dress creator.
 Any hesitation ] may have had in regard to the long slirted evening dress has altogether vanished. What is more. several women who are recognized leaders of fashion have accepted this style and are wearing it.
 They're Skirt Conscious Whenever ] present a new collec- i ton invaria bly find myself study | ing my clients rather than the effect of my collection. If has been grau- fving 10 me 10 observe many Of them surreptitiously pulling down their abbreviated skirts at the sight of a rnanneouin in long dress. al- though to me the latter not the l former is the normal length. In all my workrooms and fitting rooms you will find this season the following written instructions l find myself compelled to give: Fltters and saleswomen are requested 70 | hear in mind the fact that nearly all dresses are too short" Fitting rooms are small and the optical illusion apt to be misleading A skirt seen from too near invariably looks too long This same skirt. seen in a reception room or in the street, is ridiculous lv short Most of our customers you meet in town are dressed too short for this very reason.
 Mirroring the Mode "When custom demands that her skirt be shortened both litter and vendeuse are explicitly request ed 10 lead her into one of the salons : and look at herself in mirror with the necessary distant perspective.
 "The prevailing modes cannot afford 10 lack length. Women who still insist on wearing dresses other than sport dresses too short give one l the i'm mornrion of wearing something old fashioned as well as cheap-look- | ing"
 I though this circular would cause q moments reflection on the part oi cistomers who might still hesitate before my conception Of the 1929 line One of the reproaches l nave always had 10 make is that women soc their skirts from too near. re- 1 sulting up 10 now in the absurdly abbreviated skirt length.
 CRISP ROLLS When reh .afinp rolls or biscuits