Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-12-29

\ want them to bring the promise O.
Spring into your wardrobe. II
either case you will be interested in the
clothes presented for Southern resort
wear. Here you will find the acceptance
and development of the trends put forth
In the styles of last Fall. The changes
we thought so radical at that time have
been adapted to make them more wear
able and more applicable to our mode Of
living.
The higher waistline has become an
established fact. 1t has been achieved
by various ingenious subterfuges. The
effect IS that of a definite marking of a
hne We formerly called the normal
waistline. 1t has been described as the
point the elbow touches when the arm
u bent at right angles and drawn close
TO the figure. Sometimes two belts are
used. one at the hipline and the other
several inches higher. Again the yoke
OF the skirt is brought up in a panel
extending over the belt in the front
thus gaining longer line.
X
A THOUGH stitched belts of the ma
terial usually narrow. are pre-
ferred to mark this waistline, tuckings,
ehtrrings and organisations are gaining
favor, producing the effect of q princess
Silhouette. Capes and boleros play an
important role in the transition to the
princess mode.
1t is surprising to find the variations
given to the bolero which was originally
Just short rounded Jacket, There is
the bolero placed only at the back.
This may be divided and worked into
sash. 1t may be knotted loosely and
nang in scarf effect. It may be strictly
tailored, as you find 1t in sports and
daytime dresses, and it may be softly
orsped as it is on the more formal type
Of clothes. Again you will find it han
died as single revers extended to
break the all-round effect of the high
WaiStline. The reverS on one side NAV
be balanced on the other side by a
scarf. A fattering effect is produced
ny wide fold-like bands at the sides
which simulate a bolero in the front
and serve as panels in the back. Another
popular idea is really a continuation
Of draped neckline which curves be-
meath the arms and becomes a shallow
ruf1e at the back.
The capes might be considered as a
development of the boleros. They ap-
pear on everything-coats as we'll as
dresses. They may be a very definite
part OF the dress, or they may be de-
tachable. Sometimes they are little
more than Jokes extending over the
shoulders in cape effect. Again they are
frankly shoulder capeS and serve to veil
the upper part of the arm, which is so
often sleeveless. On many evening
dresses we find them only In the back,
softening the line of the low decolletage
On some Of the daytime dresses they
are in the form of panels, hanging at
one or both sides of the back.
WHEN detachable, cape of this
sort serves the purpose of
Jacket. Long, shaped, gored capes in
e al Cnf 1lnr1e
FOR sports. Shorter capes, reaching the
waistline and tied in the front, are
equally good with informal evening
dresses. A cape of circular cut extend
ing midway between shoulders and
waistline, buttoned to the dress, is q
popular feature Of the solid-color crepe
costume bought to wear under the fur
the South.
Capes of shoulder and waistline
length. single and in tiers, give the new
look to both wool and silk coats for
sports and street wear.
y So
CLEEVES are another hallmark of the
new clothes for the coming season.
There may be no sleeves at all or they
may be much ornamented. Sleeveless
dresses are numerous, both for active
sports and spectators wear. Newer than
sleeveless dresses are those with cap or
elbow sleeves. The cap is longer than
last season, extending below the round
OF the arm.
Elbow sleeves are in friendly rivalry
with long sleeves in the formal after
noon and informal evening gowns. the
type we are calling Sunday night or
to frocks. On some of the black
chiffon and crepe Elizabeth dresses. so
appropriate for these occasions, the
sleeve barely reaches the elbow and is
outlined by bead or jeweled embroidery.
This may match the decoration out
lining the V-shape neck or it may be
the only trimming on the gown. On
many net gowns the elbow sleeves are
finished with a deep circular ruffle,
hanging to the waist.
Long sleeves in these gowns may be
very full and confined at the waist by
q cum, or gathered just below the elbow
into snug wrist section. Attention is
drawn to these cuffs by the shirrings.
bows and glittering embroidery, also
lacey Jabots. emphasizing lingerie
touches at the neck, and winglike
Grapes Of hlmy dress fabric. On this
more formal type of clothes the effect
Is just what the designers are striving
for-more dressy, more feminine and
more elegant.
NECKLINES, too, have been softened
~ and trimmed. On sports and tai
lored dresses they have been raised and
in many dresses brought to the throat,
making the close-f1tting Grew neck
line" The scarf collar in two or more
colors drawn through Sits of the ma
serial Is a favorite method of finishing
the neckline in daytime dresses On
more formal frocks, lingerie touches
prevail, shallow yokes of lace en-
broidered batiste, pastel-tinted tulle or
bead embroidery lending the color con-
trast. So long as the effect is that Of
o Softly-draped line. the way Of ac-
complishing it is not questioned.
y +
WHEN the bodice Is not fashioned
F' with bolero or cape, the scanning
and organisations which mark the skirt
are continued. The yoke Of the bodice
follows the lines of the yoke of the
skirt, the diagonal being a favorite
And more and more of these seamines
and organisations are appearing on
our clothes, for they are necessary to
mold the dress into the new lines. In
some Of the newest models the sectional
pieces are all Joined with this scanning,
It gives a certain fiexibility and fluid
movement to a gown which expresses
the rhythm the designers are endeav-
oring to give our clothes.
You viii note it in the many winding
treatments. Circular flounces are APP
piled in spiral way. Bodices take on
peplunas which spread at the sides out
into q deep fiaring tunic in the back.
Skirts are made up of tiers OF these
ehirred or pleated fiounceS. sometimes
dipping at both sides, again only in
The back. When fiounces are not used