Putnam patriot., 1929-04-11

short stories and novels of Paris tales of the adventures of mere man in the halls of the great dressmakers. If you are an American in Paris you can't escape the topic of women's clothes. Co to q restaurant with lady of your choice and she will stop in the midst of the most ardent of conversations to grasp her glasses and murmur: That's a beautiful model. Wonder if it came from Worth?" To you it may look like any other bit of finery that women might wear, but not 50 to the other sex.
 Fannie Hurst and Edna Ferber and their ilk are always dragging in stor- ies of adventurous man in the realm of the modistes. Among the pretty mod els the hero may find lost love or a new one. He may go to the hall of the merely to curb the extrava- gances of his wife or his sister or his mother. Hitherto we have always avoided them like poison.
 But yesterday there was a certain lady on clothes-buying bent, and when we begged for half-hour of her day, she replied that we could only see her by going to exhibitions of clothes with her. and so we took the dive and went
 First of all it was to Callot Souers, a great Louis XVI mansion not far from the Champs Elysees. It seemed to us that never before in our lives had we seen so many women. Old women, young women, middle-aged women, pretty women, terrible women. Little girls in black frocks ran around screaming. Big women cackled excited ly in French and threw gowns hither and thither. It had all the appear ances of well-organized feminine bedlam. Not a man in sight and we slunk up the grand stairway and into the series of drawing rooms where the gowns were shown feeling completely and entirely on the defensive.
 Around the sides of the rooms were seated more women, some very pretty and chic, some very homely and az gressive. some of the lank type of the American business woman all prepar- cd for the buying fray.
 The show had begun. We seated ourselves at an end of the room oppo- site to a door whence came the models in marched neVer-eeaslng parade. Pretty girls. they were, slim and smart looking, wearing their gowns with q professional and absolutely impersonal air. Poor devils! We learned that throughout tine season they go through this march twice each day There were gowns of every color and for ev- cry occasion If milady admired one, the remark was instantly jotted down by a timid little woman who stood just behind us. Every so often, large saleslady would come screaming across the room to assure milady that the gown she was gazing upon was exactly her type. At first we were interested. The girls were pretty, there was no doubt of that. but they gazed upon us with a glassy and staring eye. No longer will we believe this stuff and nonsense of love among the m.dinettes Our second emotion was state Of coma. Gowns and girls merged into a kaleidoscopic blur The third feeling was a deep sinking into complete bore dom. We were aroused by milady say ing: "There's the bride. The shows over" The brides gown, we learned, is aways the last. We cantered down the stairway and out into the Avenue Mantignon breathing in deep lungfulls of dank Paris air.
 We suggested tea, but milady had q fitting at NJ. Jean Patou's and there we went willy-nilly. We liked it better. The show was over We liked the at mosphere of M Patou's, the pretty salesladies. and best of all the unique little bar which Patou has established for the benefit of his patrons who be- come fatigued at their fittings and de- sire refreshment. not to mention the haven it is for the poor devil of male who has to pause for a moment m thls hall of feminine finery.
 But we liked, too, the story of M. Patou, few years ago young Paris ian of little means but much talent. Mind you, that no one in the commerce of France stands higher tn the nation al regard than the heads of the great dressmaking establishments, male or female NJ. Patou came out of the war with fine record displayed flare Tor designing feminine raiment, capital ized it. and stands today very near the head of the list His clothes are the most chic possible His employees mum. Der well over 5000, and upon hts word hangs the fate of many manuIaeluis of dress goods, silks etc.
 So we sit high on the stool at M. Patou's bar and we have Patou cock tail while milady is being fitted within to the accompaniment of cries gi de- F-ht from kaif-a-doZen of the uni formed attendants of the house. When all is ready we enter and find miiaay clad for the evening "Isn't it beauti- ful?" she cries, and we assent. She IS beautiful. at any rate.
 From Madame B.. chief sales lady for NJ. Patou, we learn much Of the dressmaking trade Style and mod { Is are guarded with great secrecy Perfume recipes are as precious as ru- lies for competition is brisk and there ire few who rise to greatness. She tells us of the great Jeanne Lanvin, now worth ten good American millions of dollars-not francs. Also, of the old and rich and honorable houses Of Worth and Redfern and of the bril- ant Madame Chanel, who, when asked why she had refused the hand Of n certain English duke, replied grand ly: "There have been many duehessess of W. There is only one Chanel.
 And if you don't believe that this business of dressmaking is serious with the French. then, if you are m Paris in the winter, go to the bai ae