Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-11-09
THIS AND TIL 7
BY CHARLES E. TRACEWELL.

| one as he sees and smells the foodstuffs
on display. It would not seem that all
the people in Washington together
could eat all the food that Is IN Center
Market.
What boxes Of eggs, what masses OF
rolls, cakes; what slabs Of cheeses, what
briskets of beef, what mounds OF nuts
what vases of chrysanthemums! No one
person could hope to buy 1t all in a
year, and yet probably few purchasers
but wish they could not only buy, but
eat, 1t all, too in dayl
Such Is the effect Of the market, even
on person with poor appetite. One
may wonder what it would do to a man
with flrst-class eating abilities.
There was a big dog there that day
It had always been our impression that
dogs were not permitted there, but this
one was there bigger than life.
He was acting in a most gentlemanly
manner, but no one could have blamed
him If he had broken his leash and
made grab for one of the large steaks
which swung SO red and tempting but
few feet from his nose.
The food odors must be overpoWering
almost to four-footed creature. Even
The blunted sense of human being
| finds the mingled odorS delectable
Half the Joy or walking through the
market is to smell the good things
The air has a curious tlavor-hali
sharp, half sweet, as If a good cook
had mixed her sugar and salt deity
not by rule, but with that sublime in
difference to precept which sometimes
results in masterpieces.
Aiding the sense of smell Is that OF
sight. Color has great deal to do with
ones Joy of the market. No doubt II
was this combination which led Emile
lola to write his book based on the
market people OF France. called 1.-The
Belly Of Paris" but given softer name
when put into English.
The colors Of the various foods are
the accents, as it were, of q gustatory
symphony with the white of celery
and eggs, the reds Of meat, the yellows
of chickens, the green of pickles, the
purple of eggplant, the brown Of nuts
and leaves and many other colors play
ing important parts.
Here the curious may find foods OF
which they scarcely dreamed, yet which
are well known and liked by many
others. The cheeseS seem infinite In
| variety. Honey may be secured in glass
or the comb. One thinks of the days
when he chewed honeycomb as child
or of that day still distinct in memory
when Grandfather was freed by swarm
and stung badly.
Here Buenos Aires meets Wisconsin,
beef answering back to cream cheese
Huge bricks Of pimento cheese make
an especial appeal to woman pur.
! chasers; somehow the pimento tang
strikes q feminine note.
All hearts respond to the lure OF
pound cake, light and golden. This IS thu
| favorite cake of men the world around
They say that the Pennsylvania house
wives make it better than those of any
other State, but We question that in
all sincerity. To be right, pound cake
must not be too dry. This Is where
many fall down. Real pound cake 1!
| light. but not too dry. Nor is it toC
yellow. Be suspicious of the slice which
Is too golden. Like perfect butter i
should have a delicate, artistic coloring
Here Is chow-chow. But this chow
chow Is not our chow-chow. This 4
in huge humps, but the kind we wer'
brought up on was cut up fine ant
| small as the result Of much choppinl
in bowls. We will purchase none o
this chow-chow. We will 60 to yonde
stand where sausages are for sale ant
stand like the big dog, snufdng the fra
grant air. Like the dog, the saussg
Is not for US. Time and experience ha!
enforced this wisdom so many time
that we. no longer rebel. We stant
and snuff and then move on with re-
| greet, for this is one of the finest, zesti
est smells Of all, peculiarly so when on,
| dare not eat