The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1929-12-23
Empire Line
attained BY
High Waist
BY HENRI BENDEL
Written for NEA Service

NEW YORK, Dec. 23.-The high
wasted mode has led inevitably tc
adaptations Of the quaint and very
feminine Empire lines.
Moreover. the fuller, Swaying
grace of the new gowns has intro
duced note of gentlenesS into the
most severe of costumes. This is
most noticeable right now in the
fuller and more intricately made
bodice portions of frocks. They
tend 10 have blouse to them, rather
elaborate neck decoration, and the
sleeves OF many gowns are quite the
most important feature about them.
Along with this more elaborate
notice of the bodices of costumes
comes the tendency toward some
quite oldfa5hioned prints for Palm
Beach wear that makes garments
fashioned of them very different
from any of last seasons style.
Colors Show Difference
Piaids. rather conventional fig
Hres, dainty little sprigs of color
against solid backgrounds and
f1ecied materials that achieve tonal
depth by use of many colors-these
are used more for sports and day
time things. Evening gowns prefer
plain colors or dainty vivid pat
terms against pastel grounds.
1t is obvious by now that the
Jacket suit is the important outfit
for spring, be 1t in pajamas or eve
ming ensembles. This insistence on
jackets is utterly American and
completely modern in that it is an
tnsiStence on youth note, no mat
ter how sophisticated the trailing
evening gown may be.
Combinations of color that intro
duce black is another new note for
Southern resort wear and spring.
show such a gown today. an eve
ming gown from Chanel which uses
black lace and emerald green lace.
The black lace is posed in rather
fancy godets, with the green lace
fashioning the body of the gown.
Verges on Empire Line
This gown illustrates the ten
dency toward the empire line, one
that only slender women should at
tempt, for nothing could be more
devastating than an empire line on
a figure that lacked cvelte grace
and naturally curved lines.
There is little black lace belt
on this gown that ties in q dainty
bow knot on the left side. 1t is such
little belt, but it carries with it
a feminine touch that acknowledges
the softer notes of chic.
One of the qua.ntest of new notes
is plaided velvet for jaunty little
suits. One such combines green,
brown, and yellow in it's plaid and
it brings out the yellow by using
fiat crepe IN that tone for the
blouse that tuckS into the skirt
The skirt is cut quite high in the
waistline, with a little self-belt
around at normal wa:stline, and
the skirt extending above it.
/. The jacket has slightly fitted
waistline and wide, nOtched lapels
Moreover it has a scarf of the vel
vet and yellow crepe. A green hat
with a velvet band of brown, tops
tan off-the-face hat that is soft
and flattering.
Sport Garb Decorated
The tendency towards decoration
of sports things and the use of
godetS and circular cut for fullnesS,
instead of pleatS, both are
Illustrated in a figured woven jersey.
It's colorS are black. tan and red
and two kinds of fine braid trim
its outer edges all over. The skirt
has yoke outlined in the braid
which builds up to normal waist
line.
The graceful cut of the coat is
new. Also the way it does not come
together in front, being tied at the
neck by little ends of the collar
and hanging from it to reveal the
tan fiat crepe. The use of both
braid and buttons is rather new
and pleasing this season, after so
many undecorated garments for
several years.
The hat for this suit is of tobacco
brown, with a brim for shade and
a woven band of red and tan for
lively decoration.