The Indianapolis times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1922-1965, 1929-11-06
Long Coat
Discarded
as Clumsy
BY JEAN PATOL

hFtAAFU iuF NM CNIFAff
PARIS, Nov. "a wider use Of
fur as a decorative medium un-
dGubtedly has proved a great asset
as well as new source of inspira-
ton in the creation of winter styles.
Until a few years ago the treat
gaent of pelts remained in the re-
strained domain of fur specialists
and its final adaptation was then
rather lost sight of. A judicious
election Of skins, a clever manner
of setting them of-calling for great
knowledge and technique-was the
only part the furrier was called upon
to play.
As he seldom lived in an atmos-
phere Of fashions" it never oc-
cured to him that he might raise
MS industry to that of a fashion
creator.
Models offered by furrier then
we're usually synonymous with lux
uriousness and what we termed
classical" in style. They we're rare
" smart and seemed to be solely
created to look sumptuous.
Adapting Furrier's Art
This order of things now has
changed. The couturier with mod
ern ideas soon realized the necessity
of assimiliating as much of the
complex technique of the furrier as
possible and the modern furrier en-
deavored to reach that degree OF
perfection he has attained today.
The result is that fur no longer Is
employed mainly as protection
against the cold. 1t contributes
largely to the artistic element OF
styles-not simply in the nature of
trimming. but as one of the impor-
tant factors.
Although this season we shall see
fewer all-fur coats than ever be-
fore. the various uses made of fur
are steadily increasing.
You often will find that the
movement end line In a winter coat
are accumulated by the fur trim
ming. It contributes and asserts its
ORIGINAL cut or outlines a special
feature. Remove this trimming and
the model loses most of its quail
ties.
Fur Gives SOftness
The leading role of fur in win
ter STYLES. however, is to contribute
that element of softness lacking in
the more sonnbre fabrics There Is
M more fitting and becoming frame
for a feminine face than a fur col
lar
This was proved effectively at the
beginning of the season when fur
trimmed hats we're launched with
great success.
Every couturier will acknowledge
that the use of fur on summer
clothes was considered a difficult
technical point.
It called for all the art Of the
creator. as it needed to harmonic
with both line and fabric and yet
had to be used in such a subtle
manner as not to evoke winter
styles.
Fur Is Abundant
This season I found that JUST as
much art end technique was needed,
in spite of the fact that I had
greater selection of both pelts and
fabrics at my command, as well as
mnav more color combinations.
One of the outstanding features
of nv winter collection has been the
abundance of fur. not only as
trimming. but in the guise Of short
Jackets and fur coats forming an
ensemble with certain dresses
Practical. modern woman no longer
can be hampered when walking or
shopping by long. almost inyarla-
blv too heavy fur coat.
It was always nearly too warm
and uncomfortable. The short fur
Jacket is the happier solution, pro-
viding the requisite comfort and
being a happy substitute for the
warm tailored suit
Strangely enough. costly furs
such as Sables, ermine and chin
chilla. seem to be abandoned now
adays by smart women for evening
wear