Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-11-17
BY HELEN DRYDEN.

sn sr fssfsr fs s he an WARDROBE Rs5
NV the separate coat appears as
" an important item in the
clothes budget. It must
serve various occasions, complement va
rious dresses and come within the price
limit. The last requisite Is not so easily
met in a season Of styles demanding
more yardage, rich fabrics and sump-
tuous fur trimmings.
For the daytime coat which must be
as suitable for town wear as for sports
events there is the wide range Of
f1ecked, nubbed and diagonal tweedS,
as well as materials in solid colors. The
latter are preferred for separate coats be-
cause they form such happy partner
ship with the tweedS of the suit or
dress. Then there are various soft,
rough-surfaced woolens, such as llama
and camel's hair. Suede cloth, velvety
woolens of the velours type, broadcloth
both with smooth face and the
brushed surfece-velveteen and velvet,
all are appropriate for the more formal
type Of coat.
For comfort in the country, dashing
around IN the rumble seat and cheering
from the grandstand, ulsterlike coats
of thick wool with deep, furlike pile
have only fur-lined tweed coats and the
fur coats as rivals.
MANY Of the daytime coats retain
the straight-line silhouette. 1t is
when they take on more formal char
acter that the flare creeps in and the
waistline becomes defined. The belt on
the majority of the straight-line mod
els defines the new position Of the
waistline and suggests the fare which
often is not perceptible until the wearer
is in motion.
Except in the most formal coats the
fare is very much restrained. Often
Just the molding of the coat, with more
fitted lines, produces it, as is Illustrated
by the Paquin coats with the princess
silhouette. Again 1t is the manipula-
ton of the fabric that suggests subtle
flare at the back and possibly the sides.
Another popular method is the appli-
cation of fiounces. either at the bottom
or a few inches above. They appear at
the back and extend around the sides
over q straight foundation.
y 4 Il
THE length of the coat should be
l. determined by the dress with which
it is to be worn. This is especially true
of the flare coat, which must cover the
dress. This generally brings the full
length coats half way down the calf.
The e-quarter-length coats very
often lengthen slightly toward the back
to follow the dip in the dress, or curve
upward in the front so decidedly that
they give the same effect.
Cape coats are important this season.
These coats have capelets that fall
loosely over the sleeves arranged in a
divided effect at the back. Or they
may be fitted across the shoulders and
fall in a fiaring line to the waist.
There are still others which hug the
shoulders in cape fashion and which
can also be crushed around the neck
like q collar. Fur invariably trims
these capelets either as an edging or a
border running few inches from the
edge. On the more elaborate models
the entire capelet may be of fur.
Sleeves of separate coats have re-
ceived special attention this season. In
the more sportSlike models they are
often cut in one with the yoke, either
In front or in back, or are of the raglan
order. On the more formal coats they
may take dolmanlike shoulder effect.
or little capeletS may flutter over the
upper part OF the arm.
All manner of ingenious cuff ar
rangements have been devised-from
the mannish tailored cuff minus any
fur, to the sumptuous applications of
fur which encircle the sleeve almost to
the armhole. There are the deep far
ing fur cuffs and the cuffs fitted at the
elbows and widening toward the bot
tom. And the most unusual of all is
the band of fur extending up the back
of the sleeve to the armhole.
These applications of fur in collars
borders, insets and various geometriC
organisations are adapted with a law
!, ish hand. With the exception Of the