Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-02-03
Black and Ingria Rose Now Dominate Fashions in Paris

of bracelets and necklaces Of precious
stones. But above these, for two. three
and four flights, that may be passed In
a rocco gilt and mahogany lift, are
literally dozens of immense salons-e
veritable museum of the jewelry OF
many ages. Practically the whole
space of one entire floor Is like a huge
laboratory, filled with complicated MI
croscopes and Photographic apparatus
where white-coated chemists work to
test doubtful pearl or an unauthenti-
cal ruby.
In contrast to either Of these shops
is the studio where young craftsmen,
students of sculpture and painting, be-
gin their work as designers Of jewelry.
It is quite like any other Paris artists
atelier, save that dozens Of artists, in
smocks and caps. work in one room to-
gether, porting over drawing boards and
tables of clay.
Here they conceive the plans that
are worked out in metals and precious
stones, in adjoining studios. Many of
these young men and women are de-
Signers, metal workers and jewel cut
tiers all in one, and. single-handed, pro-
duce an original piece Of jewelry that
is sold in their own studio shop, or
sent to manufacturers to be copied
throughout the world.
The designing of iewelry plays an
important role In the Paris world of
fashion making. Four times year the
important Paris couturiers close their
doors In secrecy in preparation for the
launching of their collection of new
styles. Hand in hand with them is
the jewelry designer, and 1t Is he who
chooses the colors and who arranges
the combinations that are introduced
with the new season.
AS often as not the jeweler is the per-
son consulted before the actual weaving
and dyeing of fabrics are begun. The
JeWeler knows, probably better than his
con1rere, just what colors and what
Stuits Will look well with certain stones
and metals.
That this collaboration has done much
toward good taste in dress Is the claim
of both parties. Women who previously
onered their gowns and their iewelry
separately, and whose only solicitude for
tnelr jewels was to see that the clasps
were safe, often combined colors and
nneS tnat were disastrous to both frock
and decoration.
Nowadays the dressmaker adnonishes
his client to wear certain Jewels with a
particular frock, and to wear them in
sucn ana such manner; likewise, the
purchaser of jewelry often is advised
that certain frock or a certain line of
a frock will form perfect background
for tie jewel she has chosen.
Paris women have taken an immedi-
ate fancy to the special dresses that
have been recently introduced, signed
with the name of both couturier and
jeweler. Jeweled velvets, the fabrics
that have glistening surface and are
| dyed in exact jewel colors, are seen on
smart women everywhere, complemented
by jewels whose colors they simulate.
A certain black dinner gown has be-
come famous for its deep back decolle-
tage that Is entirely filled with ropes of
pearls. while the front shows only a
single choker strand. There is the beige
satin gown that seems to have been
merely wrapped about the wearer, with
| big bow pulled through great hoop.
Of diamonds on one hip. There Is the
| sapphire blue bridge dress, formal In
line, that always is worn with choker
| necklace, as savage in inspiration as one
could imagine-a fiat slave ring Of plat.
mum, dotted with large diamonds and
SapphireS