Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1929-06-02
Materials May Contribute Good Designs in Lingerie
BY MARY MARSHALL.

DHE problem OF the makers and
designers of lingerie this season
$50 is to devise undertakings that re-
4 fleet something of the new fare
and increased shapelinesS that
are evidence in the new dress silhouette,
and at the same time maintain the
smooth. uncomplicated foundation line
that is quite as important now as ever.
There must be the effect of close mold
ing. with nothing to suggest actual
tightnesS-indication of a flare below
the hips without actual increase in bulk
mess.
To accomplish this, soft, plant ma
terialS are "A necessity. SILK materials
rather more than cottons possess the
suppleness needed, and SO, in a season
when linens, bingham, pique, organdy
and other cotton fabrics are used for
dresses, georgette, crepes and other fine
silks are worn beneath.
Crepe de chine still takes first rank
among materials used for all sorts of
undertakings and this season, as last,
there are many colorS and shades from
which to choose. The fashion for SUM-
burned skin has influenced the popu-
larity of many Of these shades, and at
present there is strong demand for
peach, she'll pink, apricot and other
tones combining pink and cream, as
well as the new flesh tint, which is of
a sun-tan cast. Several shades, includ-
ing Lido blue, Nile green and maize also
are smart.
Ninon, triple wolfe and triple chiffon
are often seen in the French lingerie
and in the finer sort of American-made
pieces. Satin crepe and washable satin
are used occasionally, but more often
for nightgowns, pajamas and slips to be
worn under thin frockS than for STEP
ms. chemises, boomers or drawers.
There are, on the other hand, numer-
Gus cotton undertakings of the simple,
wearable sort that are spoken Of as for
sports wear. These things are charac-
terized by their simplicity and brevity
and usually have little II any of the
new fare or fullness about them. DIM
ity, Bingham and broadcloth, usually in
figures, stripes or checks. are the ma
terials usually chosen. Manufactured
pongee Is used for many practical and
simple undergarments.
Cotton garments are usually of the
simplest sort, trimmed only with pipings
Of contrasting material, almost never
extensively used on the silk pieceS-the
rule for darker lace usually Of the Allen
con Sort being even more firmly estab-
lshed this season than last.
The two outstanding tendencies in
dress fashions of the season-the low
cred hemline and the raised waistline-
have had their influence on lingerie de-
signs Brevity is still the rule for
boomers and so-called panties, but
many of the slips designed for wear
with transparent afternoon or evening
gowns have longer skirt lines and some
times are cut with the downward droop
in back
Nightgowns are no longer the shape
less Sheaths they were a short time ago.
The upper sections are cut more closely,
with shoulders more closely fitted, and
often the waistline that is almost high
enough to be normal Is indicated by a
narrow ribbon girdle. The fuller skirt
is achieved either by a circular cut Of the
garment or pleated insets at the sides.
Low-cut nightgowns, slips and che