Evening star., 1928-06-17
world CAN DINE
| AT HOME IN PARIS
"Trip Around Globe With Knife
;sand Fork Possible in French
s Restaurants.
BY JOHN EVANS.

correspondence Of the Associated Press.
PARIS.-A trip around the world by
Knife and fork can be taken within
ahe walls of Paris in good deal less
than Jules Verne's 80 days.
Z Natives of nearly every land can
ameet their countrymen, eat accustomed
food, hear their language and imagine
themselves back home in restaurants
THAT are transplanted spots from foreign
parts
! Cookery. like peoples, varies as one
travels. There are national dishes. like
american ham and" that have gone
around the world, sometimes changing
nightily as they wander. And there
are unusual dishes, like "escargots"
The snaals of France.
: France has more to offer from her
Kitchen than other countries. but snailS
&trike Western people as among the
most curious.
Aristocratic Snails.
e They are an aristocratic lot, these
gray-shelled escargots, that carry their
houses on their backs and live on null
berry leaves In Burgundy, the home of
rich, red, fragrant wines.
4 Like Holsters the Snails are plunged
into boiling water without being asked
Il they like it. Then they are well
washed, simmered for hours in white
wine and bouillon and finally stuffed
back in their shells with butter, well
seasoned with finely chopped shallots,
9romaticS and a good touch of garlic
A hot oven makes the butter boil and
Ehs hubbling eScargotS are served on
a tin plate with a device like sugar.
kongs to hold the shell firmly while the
occupant is flshed out Of his spiral
apartment with a thin snail fork. The
butter is drunk from the shell and the
E2utious Frenchman accordingly tucks
his napkin in his collar or in his vest
opening.
Z II one would dine in Italy there are
plenty of Paris restaurants where there
viii always be Chianti wine and scores
of kinds of macaroni and spaghetti.
But the adventurous VIII try Gala
aaaio" tiny tnkfish which are thirty
second cousins Of the dreaded octopus.
This small relative can throw of
liquid smoke cloud. blackening the
water for escape from big hungry
enemies After much rinsing has freed
them from their ink, the little fellows
ore dipped in batter. fried in not olive
OIL and served with mayonnaise. The
nrm white boneless flesh resembles
labster. but is perhaps even richer in
& MorOccans at Home.
sTaIl dark Moroccans, coming from
fzneir worship in Paris Mcfalnmedan
mosque, have only 70 turn into another
GDor IN a section Of the same building
70 be back in North Africa. At low,
Cziaintly etched brass tables they may
squat cross-legged on leather cushions
and eat Of steemlng "couscous, served
Cy 1.-the, brilliantly costumed AlgerianS.
There is no bounding by blue-aproned
wine steward, for Mohammedans drink
Water.
4 Whatever else one may have. cous-
eeus almost always is served. It is a
large round. fat-topped mound Of
fRne grained. haky rice. striped from
center TO edge with bands Of CHINA
fnCn and heaped in the center with
oft, puffsd raisins boiled with the
raeces Of tender mutton which are hid
eien In the snowy rice.
!. In Partisan Russia, one might start
IN involved repast with "biinis." small
rhin pancakes with o big spoonful OF
fCy cold fresh gray caviar and upper
or sour cream as trimmings.
q For soup the traveller could go 10
CHINA and have gummy swallows nests,
kDiled until white and tender In rich.
epnsOmrne, but the bill would be high
II the Oriental restaurants Of Paris.
II German Dishes.
"A German dinner would mean
trtp to q restaurant In disguise. for
TIE nations coOker1es do not yet bang
CIT their signs In France. Fair-haired
ss&1ters viii bring all the Vaterlsnd
6ixhes: Gansleberwurst. the melting
1st goose liver sausage studded with
Gnfnes, fit companion for the French
1e4e graS; many kinds Of Sausages,
z4Ways In pairs. high-brow relatives Of
tse American wfeuie: pumperknickel
bread, and even beer In gteing--but In
fsass ones, as the truly German stone
ware stein hasn't come back since the
var.
"A little tavern room, seemingly
Straight from old England, would offer
q saddle mutton chop, thick and with
Ebe fat-encircled kidney still attached,
beoiled 10 crisp brown, or the roast
.1D6nt Of beef with the traditional York
ahire pudding.
Greeks here can get their "midy."
lazge mussels whose black shells are
8kaIffed With rice saturated with highly
1p4ced tomato sauce. Or they may
e#en, On occasion, eat Of the tender,
ng-hezded fish called "kephal."
The Swiss may get their "f0ndu,"
NaeIted Seagoned cheese in q ckafng