Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-09-30

7 F, two or three weeks ago, I had
talked to you about the tones in
fashions rainbow for Autumn,
Il would have had much to say about
the Importance of colors, often OF
bright colors. But within a week or 50
ct this time of year one often has rea
DON to alter ones ideas in fashion mat
4ers considerably and my impression Of
the Autumn color scheme has certainly
undergone some change. Colors are
important and among the new clothes
designed and chosen for women of
fashion there are possibly more colors
and sometimes brighter shades but
within the last few days I have felt
very strongly the Importance of black.
It is always hard to wean away the
well dressed French woman from her
black street costume and her black eve
ming gown, and the Paris dreSSmaker5
never seem to exhaust the possibilities
of this sable hue. There are American
women, know, who cannot be per-
suaded that black is anything but old
looking, depressed and undressing
but defy even these women to see some
of the new black satin frockS and black
broadcloth ensembles without having to
grant their supersmartness.
So If you have laundering to wear
q black street ensemble or to have
black evening frock or formal afternoon
frock don't let anything deter you-be-
cause in spite of the riot of colors that
we have heard so much about black is
decidedly in the picture at present
Quite important, I think, is the new
use of black for clothes of the sport
Wenre, and one of the things from
Sennys that I admire the most is her
I new sports two-piece suit made of black
Jersey with yellow piping and black and
yellow buttons. Jenny also combines
black, yellow and gray in sports en-
o0snbles. In a formal afternoon en-
Wemble Caret of Paris uses black MORE
with some sort of yellow cloth for deco
milton. There is something rather too
striking in this suggestion of yellow
With black but in the hands of good
dressmaker it is decidedly smart.
This use of darker colors for sports
apparel is, as my French friends would
fay, tires moderne." Black and navy
blue have been avoided previously for
clothes for actual sports wear because
OF the readiness with which dark color 5
shcw dust. But for all that black has
been seen for some time in golf en-
aembles-witness the fad for black socks
and black sweaters followed by both
men and women on the links. Perhaps
the use of black and navy blue for semi
sports clothes as seen in the collection
4 OIL SOLue u blIS lCdQ1Alk CtGIlClI OttSo-
} makers for Autumn is an outgrowth Of
this.
When some one speaks of that new
blue" you may be pretty sure she is
referring to the blue with an overcast
of gray that Patou launched on its
successful career late in the Summer
For of all the many blues that were
sponsored by Paris dressmakers at that
time there is none that has met with
AIzi-
goes by several names, sometimes being
referred to merely as steel blue--thougil
it is not precisely the tone of real steel
There is soft, hazy tone about it
that makes the name steel seem too
metallic. Patou blue is, l think, the
best way to designate it.
Meantime there are several bright
blues, royal blue, some indigo and
blue that is precisely our own Yale
blue. There are greenish blues that
suggest the old-time Natter, and a
lighter greenish blue that suggests rob-
ms eggs to some and old turquoiseS
to others. This is especially good fol-
evening.
After black and blue one hesitates
whether to speak next Of green OF
brown, because they are both tremen-
dously important. Perhaps brown first
i because OF its prominence in street en-
sembles and the preference that Ameri-
cans usually have for this color over
the French woman's favorite black.
Lelong, believe, launched the much
talked-of vanilla, though from all &C.
counts she is still partial to black
Vanilla certainly is brown, though
I have seen it described as a brownist
purple. A light brown that is used fol-
evening has been spoken of as warn
cafe AL lait." To me it looks more like
coffee that has been diluted with cream
If you are not averse to comparing
the colors of your clothes with fooC
and drink. Beige is frequently usec
in combination with darker, warme,
shades of brown. Marion glace is al
interesting shade for evening
Of greens there seems to be an end
less variety. Hunters green is used TO
a number of smart Autumn ensembles
and there is still much mint green fo
day and evening as well. Chanel com
1oines green and brown with considerable
Success.
Gray occupies its own particula
niche in the gallery of Autumn col
ors-a small niche, but one that is APP
parently perfectly secure. Gray fur
are considered decidedly smart, and tn
gray fur coat or Jacket has been mad
the nucleus Of number OF very mic