Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-06-29

If herself. hired a dreSSnaker, or bought
n readv-made. Women who DO their
own sewing have more difficulty with
changing patterns and fitting garments
than with any other branch OF sewing
Careful choice of patterns will prevent
some fitting difficulties. When using
bought patterns. measurements Of the
figure should be taken, the pattern
checked by these. and the changes
rasde as far as possible before the
garment is cut. Even then the neck
and shoulders and other parts may
have 10 be fitted when the garment Is
tried on.
When cutting A garment, be sure to
keen the pattern straight with both
the warp and the weft threads Of the
material and have both free from
wrinkles and creases. If the material
is folded lengthwise or crosswiSe, the
folds must be exactly parallel or at
right angles with the selvageS. Do not
move even slightly to avoid piecing.
Watch carefully the placing and match
Ing Of stripes or figures.
Use pins or weights, as the ma
terial requires. TO hold the pattern Sc
curely while cutting. Mark perfora-
tfons and notcheS with chalk. Never
cut notches. Especially in silk and
wool garments. mark the center front
and center back with long even bast-
ing as q guide for accurate fitting and
the correct placing Of pockets, trim
mingS. and other parts. When cut
ting out garment, follow the edge Of
the pattern exactly. Most patterns al
low for seams If the edges are not
followed accurately. the garment when
basted up will be larger than intended
in some places and smaller in others,
and fitting will become more difficult.
Materials which are not suited 10 the
type Of garment to be made often cause
serious difficulties Women who are
not experienced in garment making
should first work with firmly woven
materials. No two kinds Of fabric will
stretch and work up alike. Neither will
they be likely TO require the same
changes, even if cut from the same
pattern.
When fitting garment it is better
70 put the attention on the fitting of
the figure rather than on following the
lines Of the pattern. Accurate basting
and sewing and careful pressing are
also necessary TO secure well fitted
garment. Press each seam as it is firl-
tS1ed, especially when working with
silk or wool materials. One final press
ing viii not produce the same perfect
results.
When fitting the shoulders of a gar
ment, begin at the back and work to-
ward the arnholes, keeping IN mind
that the lengthwiSe threads of the cloth
must be parallel TO the center front and
back Of the figure and the crosswise
threads parallel TO the floor. When
basting shoulder seam. the back of
the waist should be held toward the
worker.
Test OF Sleeves.
If sleeves are properly fitted. IT will
be possible to place either hand on the
opposite shoulder without discomfort.
There viii be ample length from elbow
TO wrist In this position or when the
arm is bent. Also there viii be saffi-
Gent length from the elbow to the back
Of the armhole, otherwise the sleeve is
likely to pull at the armhole before the
garment is worn out The inside sleeve
seam should be in line with the thumb
when the hand hangs naturally at the
side. A sleeve TO be fitted into an arm
hole is always from one to two inches
too large The u1ethod of gathering q
sleeve IS perhaps the best method To
gather sleeve, sew around the Top of
the sleeve, about one-fourth Of an inch
from the edge, with ordinary n.achine
stitch, not pulling the material behind
the presSer foot. AS the sleeve is bias
at the top, the machine VIII gather
without notice, and the sleeve win then
1T perfectly into the armhole. This
method is also a time saver.
IN order to avoid the work of special
fitting on every garment you make, it
is a good plan to make a guide or
foundation pattern from good quality
unbleached muslin, cambria, gingham
or any other firm cotton material The
warp and filing threads Of the material
are most easily seen If large checked
9ilgi1am Is used. A simple dress pat
tern with normal shoulder seam, high
neckline and set-in sleeves is best for
this model Almost any style OF dress
and many blouses can be designed from
such a model. A paper pattern may
be cut from this IL desired. Sew all
seams and dart lines with contrasting
threads, thus making the pattern re-
versible. Also sew all pieces one-eighth
OF an inch from the edge to prevent
stretching. II there are darts marked
IL the pattern basic them carefully with
a small running stitch before any of
the seams are made.
Before basting seam. place pins
the entire length at intervals Of every
four 70 six inches at right angles to
the seam line. This will keep one side
Folding the bias side next TO the worker
when basting q seam viii also help to
prevent stretching Whether a foun-
dation pattern or garment is being
made, haste or pin the shoulder and
underarm seams FIRST in preparation
for the first fitting. Very thin soft
materials, such as georgette, crepe,
crepe de chine and similar fabrics, must
he basted carefully. Instead OF telling
or making French seam, you can save
time by basting seam evenly together,
then hemmfng AS you would an ordinary
hem. The effect on thin goods is very
attractive.
When making a house dress or apron
with q string belt. make the string belt
q few inches longer than usual, so that
when you need TO patch the dress or
apron you can cut piece from the end
of the belt to use for the patch. 1t
will then be the same shade as the
dress and will not show Ike new mate
rial would
You can repair mems knitted under
wear when the knit place IN the back
gives out By taking a piece Of goods
cut bias sno sewing 1t IN the worn
place. II will give and will wear as
long as the knit piece, often longer. To
make boys underwear, cut the whole
back bias. They win be more durable
than when cut straight with the goods.
Sewing for the Children.
Cotton materials are the most appro-
pirate 70 use for making children's
Tomperg. as they will stand frequent
washing and ironing. child under 2
years Of age should have soft, smooth
materials such as sateen. cotton crepe
and similar materials An older child
can wear rompers made Of more sturdy
fabrics. During hot weather, fabrics
which are too stiff and heavy should
not be chosen, SIS they do not permit
enough ventilation Children over 3
years Of age should have Tompers with
front opening 10 make selt-dressing