New Britain herald., 1928-02-15

hOuette, while endOWlng the dress with the practical qualities it de- mandA
 The sports dress corresponds to a need just as a roadster corresponds to another need. It is some years now since the roadster has reached its final status, as it borders on the perfect. Body-builders no long CT make an effort to change 1t. It is wise that we should proceed in the same fashion in regard to sports clothes, which also practically have found their final formula.
 And looking toward the spring and summer of 1928 it is to be ex- pected that this new order of things will thus manifest itself in the mode:
 Sports and Morning Dresses
 There will be much English cloth, lot of cashmere, woolen and silk sweaters. Sweaters will fenceforth change in appearance. thanks to re- incrustations of material. which break the monotony of belt lines. It is impossible, when one wants a beautiful English sweater. to change tho horizontal stripe. as the looms for fine woolens and silks are sue cessful only in this kind of work. Colors are bright. gay and assertive. Skirts very often are divided, and in any case they always are very 1ui1~ V,,l,Sln yNroCa~u;nn iohf line. They still are short, which is but logical.
 I draw particular attention in this category of clothes to beach and swimming suits. In the latter we have a diversity of coloring and stripping. The colorings will not run in sea water. I use the same effects for pajamas and bath robes.
 Afternoon and Evening Gowns
 In this category there Is some- thing really new to be achieved by means of difficult and complicated cut; by . perfect riot to flounces running in every direction. sloping up in front or at the back, pleated or gathered, cut on the cross or cut straight. but always carefully studied so that the effect of the dress is youthful. Printed materials will play an important role for the summer, but they are discreet in de- sign and even in color.
 A new note in ensembles of this character is the use of printed ma terial for the coat with a plain dress. The dernier cri is coat and dress to match in the same printed fabric. This was a difficult problem to solve, for stuffs printed in colors and designs suitable for frocks are rarely adapted for the coats that accompany them.
 There is a, distinct tendency to re- turn to the pre-war fashion of tai lor-made, the skirt and short jacket made of taffeta, moire, alpaca and even Of lightweight lainages, worn with light lingerie blouses. These give women that trim aspect we used to admire so much.
 Among the fabrics used for these ensembles and tailor-mades is the wool-flower, a new fabric and one of the most successful ventures in lainage that we have seen for a long time. It combines all the qual- ities of woolen fabric and of silk crepe.
 For evening gowns as we'll as afternoon tailor-mades. materials dyed in the yarn play an important part; moire. taffeta. faille in all col ors. Besides these old friends brought back into favor there is . wide range Of satins, georgettes, crepes romain, fleurs de soie. chif- ions and crepe de chine both plain and printed.
 There are few embroidered dresses. These are sad years for the embroiderers. It is partly their own fault, for they have not produced enough novelty. But it is chiefly the fault of Luneville, which h: tired us all of beads, of paillettes and even of etrass.
 In addition to the discreet tones of black and navy blue, I have pro- duced three new shades: Japanese green, English red and Coquille d. Ceuf. The first two do not err on the side of discretion. They are frankly brilliant. They will not suit all women. but on those they do suit the effect is charming. The red, es- pecialIy. Is a marvellous shade. It is wonderful for the morning, won- derful for sports clothes. and won- derful for the evening. Coquille d'eouf is replacing white this sea- son; it supplies the same type of dress, is just as easy to wear. and is less common.
 Furs are used as trimming. both for sport and evening wear There Is nothing strikingly new unless you include chinchilla fox and a certain shade of beige which harmonizes we'll with this seasons beige ma terials.
 Jewels
 A certain number of gowns achieve their ultimate chic by the addition of one or more jewels. prefer stones of a nuance that does not initiate any genuine precious stone. We thus add new coiors 10 the range of jewel shades and they make no attempt to deceive any