davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1928-01-19
Cavel Of Virginia
Senate, Taken in
'65. Finds Way Back
Special Dispatch 10 The Star.

Special Dispatch 10 The Star.
RICHMOND, Va, January l9.--
When the Federal soldiers entered
this city in April, 1865. one who did
duty at the State Capitol. took the
Senate eavel as a souvenir. There
was much pillaging and the gavel
was given up as gone forever.
A few days ago letter was re-
ceived from members OF the family
of Alfred l. Aiken Of New York say
ing the gavel had long been in their
possession and they desired to return
it. Tomorrow the presentation and
restoration will be made a special or
der in the Senate.
Evening star., 1928-01-19
CONSENT TO VERDICTS.

hHCQUet anu LIIIUUIH HU5V4 WI
Germs Agree to Settle Suits.
The Racquet Co has consented to
verdict against ii in the District Su-
preme Court in favor of Francis M
Collins. bellman. who fell down an
unlighted elevator hoiStway at the club
house May s. 1923. Attorneys Rourke
& Jaeger appear for the plaintiff.
The Lincoln Hotel Corporation has
consented to pay $500 to Lawrence II.
Brady. 27ol Fourteenth street, as DAM
ages for alleged Illegal custer from an
apartment at 1920 r street September
IS. 1925 A verdict in favor Of Brady
was rendered by jury in the Circuit
Court ATTORNEY Harold X. Ackcr ap-
poared for Brady
Evening star., 1928-01-19

The only Roman Catholic priest who
ever sat in Congress was Father Ga
briel Richard. who was delegate from
Michigan Territory in the early part OF
the last century
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

talette leggins for little girls. These
pantalettes we're soon shortened. be-
cause 1t was found too difficult TO keep
even the subdued. early mid-Victorian
little girl supplied with clean ones.
Eventually only q rIlffle remained.
It was in this period Of the panta-
lettes growing popularity, even with
the most conservative. that the fashion
magazines began TO take UP the prob
lem OF providing a proper bathing cos
tune for their feminine readers. And
the pantalette figured quite prominently
in their designs The earliest illuStra-
tons from .Harper's Bazaar show pan
talette or pajama base, with snug
fitting blouse caught in at the waist
and long sleeves
CHAME on those who for one moment
think that this garment was all that
covered the bathing beauty of those
days! For the walk to the beach a
tight-htting wrap, loose in the back,
with cape and sleeves, was worn by
every lady-lke bather A poke bonnet
finished the costume
The bathing suit now became as inn
portant a part OF ladys Summer
wardrobe as her ball gown, and almost
as elaborate. The pantalettes began to
recede Shrill cries could be heard
from the conservatives that no truly
modest woman would expose her ankle
to the bold gaze of strange men. But.
nevertheless the six inches OF limb ex-
posed by the shrinking OF the PAN
talette soon became a familiar feature
on the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean.
And this question of nlodesty having
been settled. the designers of bathing
suits then concentrated on seeing how
much trimming they could hang on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

technical research which agriculture
seeks 10 solve,
CURVEYS in leading Eastern cities
- show that housewives do not use
soft and hard wheat fiours for the par
ticular purposes for which these ma
terials are best adapted Hard wheat
-four Is 4 specialized material for bread
making yet millions OF horne bread
bakers use IL for pastry, cake and cookie
production. On the other hand, some
use soft wheat fi0ur. which Is ideally
adapted for pastry production, for bread
and biscuit making. Another object OF
The Government milling and baking
tests Is 10 educate consumers concern
ing the types Of -four they should use.
The Washington -four mill Ii an ac~
curste miniature OF commercial plant
and consists Of two units each Of four
stands OF g-by-G-inch rollers, AS well as
one box sitter, Three pairs of the rolls
Of each unit are corrugated, while the
others are smooth Each milling unit
is driven by a five~horsepoWef motor
The sifterg, which are mounted togeth-
er, are operated by a one horsepower
electric motor, This midget mill equip
ment includes humidifler, which con-
trolls temperature and humidity SO That
such variations will NOT affect the MILL
ing experiments. An electrified sieVer
IL 40 arranged that It's five sleeves can be
used simultaneously
The milling equipment Is etficienl
enough for scientific uses, 80 that ONE
operator ran test from four to six sam
Piles Of wheat daily. This includes the
completion OF milling and baking tesla
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

The program will be continued until
all the wheats have undergone such
thorough laboratory examination.
An interesting experiment is even
now in progress at Arlington Farm.
near Washington. the proving grounds
of practical and scientific farming.
Various high powered chemicals, such
as sodium nitrate, are being applied to
experimental wheat fields at seeding
time and when the plants head out In
order Ia determine whether II Is COM
mercially possible 10 increase the pro-
TEN content of established wheat va
rictieS by extra heavy fertilization,
THE presence of foreign materials,
including smut, dockage garlic and
other contamination, In market wheat
costs American farmers enormous for
tunes annually During recent year
six-tenths Of the American wheat
shipped To central markets and graded
by the United States Department of
Ayr ulture was Disseminated against
because Of foreign materials. Most of
value of wheat are comfortable. Garlic
can be eradicated by planting clean
seed and the practice OF proper crop
rotation and cultivation Smut can he
prevented by treating the seed with eff
tective chemicals, More careful clean
Ing OF the bread grain on the farm does
away with costly dockage,
Such weed seed as cookie, kinGhead
wild peas and Wild rose, however, con-
stitute inseparahle foreign matter In
market wheat. Their occurrence lowers
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

changes in this original costume, In
stead of being loose, the waist sported
belt But 1t is obvious that the
bathers we're not yet wearing stockings.
An elderly gentleman. somewhat
shocked by the simplicity OF these cos
tunes, has left behind him an amusing
verbal description of the scene.
"Bolsters tied in the middle. he
wrote of the bathing beauties Of New
port with hats on the upper end. Or
gigantic cells, strangled near the throat.
Or plethoric casks draped in flannel"
But the poor bathing beauties were
more to be pitied than censured None
OF the fashion books had yet consld-
ereu me bathing suit worthy OF their
attention. Bathing costumes for ladies
were simply made Of wooden material
or some equally heavy substitute de-
signed on the order of their shifts =
The shift" now long forgotten gar
ment. was an overgrown chemise be-
ginning at the neck and extending 10
the ankles. II was the one and only
undergarment worn by ladies of the
time
Not until the beginning of the CEN
fury had there been any thought OF
providing an undergarment for women
Then very severe influenza epidemic
In Paris brought about the invention oil
long muslin pantaloons A few fash
ionables adopted them, but the general
attitude was that the new style coulc
not die too quick death.
But while the pantaloon did go out Of
fashion for the time the hoopskirt was
] In vogue. it reappeared later as pan
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

2inis. and other experimental stations.
the Government miIlers and bakers act
a. a court Of last appeal which deter
mines whether or not 1t will be profit
able 10 c0mmercialize the new Selec-
tons.
A bushes Of one kind Of wheat may
yi4ld more or better -four than similar
amount of another variety given
quantity of one kind Of wheat will pro-
duce a larger and more nutritious loaf
than an equal amount Of another va
fiety, II is poor economy 10 uss cake
-four for bread baking or soft wheat for
purposes which demand hard wheat To
differentiate between good and bad At
and misfit, cnaff and wheat. Is the am
bitigD Of the Government Investigators
This matter Of milling and baking
-four Of hundreds OF different wheat
samples Is much more complex than IL
, al FIST appears 10 the layman. The
/ scheme Of our Federal grain standards
act is To nave each grade reflect the
! milling and baking qualities Of that par
! ticuiar sample ot wheat. but this does
/ not work out In practice because Of a
curious and uncomfortable combination
of chemical and physical factors.
Our Millionaire milling industry today
suffers no losses IN by-pToductA. Al
edible materials In the wheat are
utilized either as human food or live
stock feed. But 10 find out which
| yteats sTe best 10 grow on certain soils
| how they will mill into bread and
| whether they are more satisfactory thar
other bread grains In commercial cir
cuiation e~, these are conundFifns oi
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

the milling and baking quality Of the
bread grain. Growers would receive
additional millions of dollars annually
for their wheat II they would only SOW
clean seed and handle their cropS in
such a way as Ia prevent the develop
ment Of such costly weeds
Other damages To wheat which lower
its milling and baking value include
Sprouting heat frost, scah. hlieh,
bleach, fungus infection. weevil and
exposure to weatherinc, Producers can
eliminate these defects by the exercise
of carr and caution Millers ALWAYS
welcome high-qualitv grain free from
contamination and are willing Ia nav
high prices for the same The law
grade wheats are Objectionable. as they
complicate milling operations,
THE milling and baking qualities of
wheat are dependent on comhi-
nation OF physical and chemical fac
tors, In the Government laboratories
Federal scientists are solving the
secrets Of wheat varieties and types by
standardized tests which are quite diff
ferent from ordinary commercial mill
Ing tests, which vary greatly. The
American Association of Cereal chen~
lists Is now striving 90 standardize Loaf
testing methods That Is why the re.
suits of the Federal research In new
and old varieties OF wheat are OF Spe-
cial appeal to the modern millers An
such data can be compared and the
miller and baker can md out lust
what types OF bread grain will best
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12
sJutA NmeoS Wm
keytoWa rAnyhmgT They

costume that revealed her form. To
prevent such a catastrophe the blouse
must be box pleated. trousers must be-
ruffled on waistband. sleeves must be
long. and stockings must be worn!
There are many homemade varia-
tons of this costume. A discarded
Winter dress was often the foundation
for the Summer bathing costume.
Trimming was shifted the skirt short
ened enough to reveal the ankle, some
Of the fullness taken out, and the Sum-
mer belle OF the Civil War period was
ready coyly to take her ocean dip.
From this time on. two facts stand
out in the development Of the bathing
suit. Costumes we're now beginning to
be influenced by current fashions. And
inch by inch the pantslette -boomer was
shrinking upward. 1t was the begin
ming Of the end for the latter garment.
The next change in bathing cos
tunes was quite obvious. Ladies we're
now concentrating on COMPRISING their
waists into 18-inch corsets. The female
members of the family would be called
in to help pull the lacers of this gar
ment. Without such help. the lacers
would be wound around convenient
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

lin have proved most satisfactory for
macaroni production The hard red
Winter wheatS and the hard red
Spring wheats yield -four most suitable.
tor bread making. while the soft
wheats of low protein content are best
for pastry and cakes Cracker making
also demands special kinds of -four,
according to their type and quality. An
important responsibility which Uncle
Sam research baker. has assumed is to
find out definitely the special purpose
for which each variety of wheat and
It's resultant flour is adapted II is
poor economics for American dis
trihuters to sell pastry -four for bread
making, Uncle Sam seeks by expert
ments, practical demonstrations and
campaigns of education to stamp such
mistakes from the modern marketing
picture.
TIME was when the soft wheats DOM
mated the American export mar
ket. but under the modern methods OF
commercial baking such wheat will
not stand the severe service Hence
the hard wheats are now outstanding
for such uses, Scientific search and
research are directed toward the i'm.
DuILHtit HihNttI VI the pest
adapted soft wheat for the purpose as
reserve for use In time Of emergency
when the hard wheat production may
fall far below normal
The matter Of wheat supply and de-
mand IN various wheat growing States
is also being surveyed carefully by ma
tionRl scientists In order to eliminate
former errors from future marketing
case in point is that Of Pennsylvania,
state which consumes AZ 900 900
bushels of wheat annually and produces
only $4,000 900 bushels, One-half of
this homegrown supply is exported
from the State. Throughout PennSyl-
Vania housewives commonly use pastry
flour for bread baking, Local farmers
sell their soft wheat at low prices and
subsequently, pay top figures for hard
wheat in the milled form OF pastry
-four. PENNSYLVANIA bakers could al
ieviate this situation by blending one
fifth OF the local soft wheat with four
flfths of imported hard wheat for bread
-four,
Miilers educated In leading colleges
operate the two~unit experimental mill
In Washington and contribute new
knowledge To the science Of milling
and baking as n result OF their pains
taking research, At present more than
| 400 varieties OF wheat are now being
produced on commercial scale IN the
United States, The national investi-
gators at Washington have conducted
milling and baking tests Of samples Of
some $50 OF these different varieties.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

serve their specialized or general pu
poses by contrasting the results of cn,
Federal test with another.
Judged on its bread baking qualities
Russia produces good merehantahlc
wheat, On the other hand, the British
isles and Egypt introduce into world
vide commerce bread grain Of unusual
" poor quality Milling and baking en-
perlmentS in Russia. Australia New
Zealand and South Africa similar 20
those foStered by Uncle Sam will ~
time revolutionige wheat farming and
viii facilitate the more standardized
production of varieties better adapted
for commercial trade purposes.
National SURVEYS made hy Uncle sam
show that bread is still one OF the inn
portant human foods, ranking next 10
mix and meat in countrywide use
The average consumption OF bread BY
Americans over five years old Is a9~9
loaveS week, or approximately one
dozen leaves for the average family
White bread constitutes nine-tenthS of
the total consumption Housewives
prefer wrapped bread with a soft crust
and tine texture. Price has little esfeet
upon the amount of bread which the
average family uses as this food ap-
pears 70 be A family necessity. peif-
chased daily irrespective OF changing
costs Between 90 and IS per cent az
the consumers In the ordinary Ameri-
can city use bakers bread, II il nniY
In the smaller towns and rural corr
taunitles that housewives still bake
much Of the bread which their tam
lies eat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

and the chemical and physical investi-
cations of the grain, Wheat samples
from all creation arc received, cleaned.
tempered, ground bolted and finally are
baked into bread In The electrical ovens
Special methods and novel equipment
are employed in testing the water alb
sorbing capacity of the -four and the
amount of fermentation required for
best results in bread baking. The
weight Of the loaf, its volume, texture,
color, flavor, taste, odor, color of the
crust and the break" and shred" Of
the loaf are also studied
THE fermentation cabinet accommo-
dates "a loaves and is provided
with glass doors through which the
scientists can watch the sponge dough
rise. An electrical machine is used in
molding the dough into loaVes The
sponge method is followed exclusively
IN the production OF test loaves. The
special proving cabinet accommodates
two dozen loaves AT charge and Is
provided with thermostat, so that the
temperature may be controlled The
two electric ovens are large enough for
baking Ia 10 20 loaves at a time. All
under identicaliy the same conditions.
so that the milling and baking results
from each type and variety of wheat
are comparable directly Special APP
paratus Is used In optical tests for
Identifying the true trade color OF
each variety Of experimental -four
Snowy white -four is demanded for
pastry, Cream white -four Is satlsfac~
tory for bread while macaroni makers
prefer yellow colored -four.
The volume test ot each loaf IL made
by placing the loaf fresh from the
oven in container whose cuhical con-
tent is known Rape seed Is then
poured around the test loaf until the
vessel is full. The quantity Of rape
seed is measured at the completion OF
the test and the difference In the
| volume of the container and the rape
seed represents the accurate volume
| Of the loaf This ascertainment oi
/ loaf volume Ii exceedingly important
| IN the comparative sampling Of differ,
/ ent kinds Of wheat, as 1t shows the
| amount Of merchantable bread which
! can be produced from a given quantity
, of wheat This loaf~measuring sys-
| tenn was perfected by experts Of the
United States Department Of Agri-
| culture.
As a result of experiments to de,
/ iermine the best flour for the baking
! have discovered that medium strength
/ soft wheat -four is suitable for such
use, The Durham @heats and 5eno'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

1t was shortly after the invention of
the sewing machine. and one way of
proving gentilitv was to cover clothes
with ruffles tucks, braiding and every
manner Of trimming Ball dresses often
fiuttered hundred ruff1es. A dozen
pieces of braid. each piece of eight
yards, or velvet ribbon by the bolt glori-
fed a dress that took from 30 to 40
yards of material for the making
Skirts were usually 10 yards in circum-
ference.
To support this creation and keep 1t
properly extended. every perfect lady
wore enough petticoats to clothe an
orphan asylum.
First. was chemise OF muslin, ruff
fed. pleated and tucked On the lady's
neither extremities she wore pantalettes
reaching to within few inches above
her ankles. These also we're pleated
and lace trimmed Then came
simple flannel petticoat, then an under
petticoat, three and one-half yards
vide; then another wadded to the
knees and stiffened with whalebone at
intervals OF two inches, then a white
starched petticoat with three stiffiv
starched fiounces. and finally a fine
muslin one with a dozen or more rows
Of narrow ruffles; then. at last. the
dress!
MO wonder the bathing suit of this
period was trimmed from neck to
hem Fashion magazines nov had pat
terms to offer their fair readers. They
recommended twilled flannel, serge and
any heavy material that could be de-
pended upon never to cling to the body
under any conditions. 1t was stressed
at intervals that no lady would wear a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12
Government Conducts Flour Mill and Bakery in washington

Science Is Solving the Problems of
Housewives and Bakers-Experimental
Loaves Produced by Uncle Sam Ex-
perts-Tests of Various Kinds of Wheat
Gathered From All Over the World
The Miniature Flour Mill and Its Elk
cellent Equipment Fighting the
Enemies of Wheat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

machines could be rented at the foot
Of the East River; but the diaries and
memoirs of those days show no sign
that the bellies took advantage Of these
aids to sea dip.
In the first quarter Of the next GEN.
fury. however. ocean bathing became
popular at Newport. This town was
then the Summer gathering place of
well-to-do Southern families They
fiocked North when hot weather came.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12
VS. When Fair Maids Went Down to the Sea in "Shifts"

day dress. was made to At snugly to
show her slim waist Pleatfng and
braid of all description still adorned her
costume. But for the first time II be-
came known that above the middle, at
least, the female bather had body.
TOWARD the '9os machine en-
broidery came into fashion. and the
bathing-suit manufacturers saw no
reason why they should not put a few
touches of 1t on their output The
pantalette, now having receded 10 just
below the knee. sported ruff1e Of en-
broidery. The skirt, ending Just above
the knee had f1ounce. Some suits
had berthas of embroidery; others ruff
f1es around the neck. around the waist
and on sashes. Occasionally bathing
hat of embroidery was seen.
The beginning of the twentieth CEN
fury saw the coming Of the straight
front corset and the princess dress
The bathing suit, boomers hidden
under the length skirts, followed
this fashion also. Corsets and stockings
we're necessary accessories. The old
timers, however. saw this revelation Of
the female figure with bushes.
During the last IS years the princess
skirt has dwindled to mere band
The boomers now a tight pair of
| trunks, barely cover the thighs. The
blouse is but a tight-fitt shirt, sleeve
| less and cut low--very low-in front
| and back. No stockings. Of course.
In reality the bathing costume las
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

and il became customary for all the
members OF the family 20 take a dip in
the sea
In the beginning the bathers dressed
NJ home and walked In their bathing
costumes to the beach. An early ac-
count of Newport tells of some daring
maiden summering at the Touro Street
House who put on a white bathing cos
tune of some material SO thin that 1t
shocked the whole resort. The suit was
to the water. but, damp its folds chung
to the wearer and revealed her form!
In another Is years ocean bathing
had become so popular at Newport that
the city authorities found ii advisable
to build 200 lighthouses on the beach
A unique social custom, never copied
elsewhere in this country, was now in
troduced From flagstaff erected for
the purpose a white flag waved every
morning a signal to the public that the
beach was open 10 both sexes. AT
o'clock the white flag was lowered and
a red one took its place. This was
hint to the ladies TO retire. Then the
gentlemen. in simple waist tights,
bsthed modestly end comfortably. The
white flag few again Mt 3; the gentle
men withdrew and the ladies returned
to the beach.
I UNDOUBTEDLY the bathing costume
of the ladies was the fetching
WOODEN nightgown effect. and the earl
lest sketch Of ocean bathing at New
port several years later shows but few
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-08-12

bedpost and the vearer would walk
away from this point until the lacers
had brought about the desired results.
No lady worthy of the name would adj
NIT her waist was more than 10 inches
In circumference. To keep within this
limit. many wore their corsets "a hours
q day.
OF course. when Summer came the
fashionable bather wore her corset into
the water. Her costume, like her every