Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-06-24
BY MARY .IARSHALL..

~ leafs. pleats, and still more
pleatsl Pleats for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, for tea and
Il for Snacks IN between. PleatS
for the tiniest toddlers, for maid
and mafron, for debutante and the So
called woman of importance" PleatS
for the girl with a beenpole silhouette
and pleatS for the stylish Stouts-Side
pleats, accordion pleats. box pieats. fan
pieats, pleat- pulled out at the edge
and pleats stitched down at the top.
Never In the history of dressmaking
have there been so many pleats, nor
have they beer used in so many diiler-
ent sorts of u1aterial-pleated geor-
gette, pleated taffeta. pieated crepe and
pleated velvet, pleated flannel, pleateo
chevi3t, pleated lace and pleated
leather.
To give the newly revived lingerie
touch to suit or coat frock there are
pleated organdie or null rrfI1es at the
front OF the coat and at the cuffs. Fan
p1eating is used IN a panel formation
al the front Of some OF the skirts
favored especially b. Jane Regency OF
Paris
skirts often consist Of tiers of pleats
tEo tiers and three tiers usually--and
quite often pieats are combined with
horizontal tucking Of the same mate
rial, the tacks being Of the same width
as the pleats 70 carr out the same
general effect. There are deep shoulder
collars Of ple1ted material and Little
capes Of pleats no larger than these
collars. 4 is hard sometimes to tell the
difference between collar and cape.
The foremost dressmakers Of Paris
make lavish use OF pleass, and IN the
way they Use them there Is the greatest
iatEicacF, always with the effect OF sim
plicssy. But pieating Is as useful TO the
lssne dresSrnaker as 70 the great French
designer. and especially now that II IS
possible IN most places TO have really
expert psezting done at comparatively
email cost.
An easy way for the home dressmaker
70 achieve the pleated effect Is to use
one Of the paeated trimmings that come
isy the yard. There are all sorts OF
Yufaings and ruchings In georgette and
crepe Of various kinds. and these may
be used for berthas and dounces, Tor
edging capes and skirts, for making
rufaes about the hips as well as about
the knees.
A clever frock saw the other day
showed rows Of crepe de chine pleated
ryIcIing. really not mere than two
inches wide, going diagonally around
the fTock. There was row at the hem
edge and three On the skirt. all dag
onal. Two around the bodice. also d.
agonai. The frock was cut with tiny
cap sleeves, and two rows Of the ruch-
ing, the upper one tapping over the
( lower one. covered these sleeves.
1t was the easiest sort Of frock 70
ccntrive at home For you just made
the frOck and then carefully basted and
stitched on the rows Of ruching, fasten-
ing each on with little bias fold Of the
crepe.
There are really two reasons for using
pleatlng. One IL as a convenient way
Of disposing Of extra fuilness. The
other Is as trinsnsag or decoration, pure
and simple.
Both ways are used this season. II
Is the trimming way that attracts most
atteution--the fEiilg and jabots, capes
ar1 berthas Of pleated material, and
the pleated skirts and blouges and
sleeves themselves But pleatg used for
convenience are also In the mode.
Much OF the underwear Of the mo-
Ynert t. oIeated. And this underwear
really Is q little different from the un-
derwear Of last Autumn, or even ot last
month. u In more closely fitted. with
more Of q waist line. and that waist
line higher. And one way that this
more fitted line is gained IL underwear
Is by means Of pleats.
Not such = foolish way, either, for
xjteats may be relaid without much
trouble and iEoned into place when lin
gerie gees 70 the laundry. They are
fastened top and bottom, any way, and