New Britain herald., 1928-05-11
OFFERING
 H0ME-LIKE MEALS
All World Can "Dine At H0Ine'
 in That City

Paris. May II dP)-A trip around the world by knife and fork can be taken within the walls os Paris in good deal less than Jules Ve.ne's go days.
 Natives Of nearly every land can meet their eountrymen, eat aecus- toned food, hear their language and iuaginc salves back home in restaurant, that are transplanted from foreisS parts.
 Cookery, like peoples varies as one travels. There are national dishes. like American ham and" that have gone around the world sometimes changing nightly as they wander. And there are un- usual dishes, like "escargots, ,"-the snails of France.
 France has more to offer from her kitchen than other countries, but snails strike western people as among the most curious.
 An Aristocratic Lot
 They are an aristocratic tot, these grey-shelled escarsots. that carry their homes on their backs and live on mulberry leaves in Burgundy, the home Of rich. red fragrant wines
 Like Holsters. the snails are plunged Into boiling water without being asked f they like :' Then they are washed simnercd for hours in white wine and bouillon and finally stuffed back in their shells with butter. well seasoned
 
 matics and a good touch 0, garlic. . X hot oven makes the butter boil and the hubbling escargots are served on a tin plate with a device like sugar-tongs 10 hold the shell firmly while the occupant Is fished out of his spiral apartment with q thin snail fork, The butter is drunk from the shell and the cau- tious Tranchman accordingly tucks his napkin in his collar or in his vest opening.
 An Italian Dinner N
 IT one would dine in Italy there are plenty Of Paris restaurants where there will always be Chianti wine and scores Of kinds Of mac roni and spaghetti. But the adycn- turous will try "Calamaio," tiny jnkfish which are thirty-second cousins Of the dreaded octopus. This mall relative can throw off liquid smoke cloud. hlackening the water for escape from big hungry enemies. After much rinsing has freed them from their ink, the little fellows are dipped in batter, fried in hot olive oil and served with mayonnaise. The firm white bone le@ flesh resembles lobster, but is perhaps even richer in flavor and nourishment. Tall dark Moroccan., coming rom worship in Paris Moharnme- dan mosque. have only to turn into another door in a section Of the same building to be back in north- ern Africa. At low. quantly etched brass tables they may squat cross- legged on leather cushions and eat Of steaming "Couscons, served by 1.-the. brilliantly -costumed Algerians. There is no bounding for by a blue X aproncd wine steward, for Moham- medans drink water. |I Whatever else one may have, Couscous almost always is served. It is large, round, nat-topped mound Of fine grained faky rice. striped from center to edge with bands Of cinnamon and heaped in the center with soft, pured raisins boiled with the pieces of tender mutton which are hidden in the snowy rice. In Partisan Russia, one might start an involved repast with "Blinis.' small thin pancakes with big spoonfud Of icy cold fresh gray caviar and a dipper of sour cream as trimmings. For soup the traveller could go to China and have gummy swal- lows nests. boiled until white and tender in rich ronsomme. but the bill would be high in the oriental restaurants Of Paris.
 \ German Dinner 1 German dinner would mean T trip 10 restaurant in disguise for that nations cookcries do not vet hang out their signs in France. Fair-hairea walters will bring all the Aaterland dishes: Gansleber- "urtt, the melting fat goose liver sausase studded with truftlas, fiji companion for the French foie eras. many kinds Of sausagcs, always in pairA hlgh-brpw relatives Of the American "ienie; punpernickeI bread: and even beer in steins--but in glass ones. as the truly German stoneware stein hasn't come back since the war. \ little tavern room, seemingly straight rom old England. would offer saddle mutton chop, thick and with the tat-cncircled kidney still attached boiled 70 a crisp brown, or 'he roast joint of beef ni'h the traditional Yorkshire 1,ud- ding. Greeks here can gnt their "Midy." large muscles whose black shells are stuffed with rice saturated with highly spiced tomato sauce. Or they may oven, on occasion. eat of the tender Dis-head@J fish called "kephal"
 S"ie. "Tnndu'' The Swiss may get their "Fondu." r melted seasoned cheese in a chahng s 3ish spread siIll bubbling on crisp toast, mouthfu at [ time. Swedes will welcome 2 touch of home in the form of fresh .nush- rooms stewad III thickened cream And folk Of every other nation aHty will find ia Paris dishes their mothers Inadt-fhe Japanese their carefully cooked rice, light and dry. each grain separate; the Span iards their composite egg dishes; the Jews their kosher meat: and