Milford chronicle. [volume] (Milford, Del.) 1878-1974, 1928-03-23
OUTSIDE THEIR
SET GROOVES

There was a time, which most OF
MS can remember very well, when
business and higher learning were
the two fields that least frequently
intermingled their talent. The bus
moss man was never-Or rarely-a
college professor, the same thing
held true in the world of art.
Today the alert professor may
likely as not have at least one best
seller on the publishing market ana
is constantly being called into Dusl-
ness conferences. The artist is ac-
cepting big advertising contracts
and not on the sly either, but with a
great deal of self esteem-and TO-
the lowly business man who was
supposed to be interested only Ill
making money, is today being con-
stantlv called from his commercial
ranks to engage in pedagogic en-
deavors.
This does not mean that learning
is being commercialized or that art
is being ruined, but that in this
bustling twentieth century those
peOple who are worth the most are
Incoming more and more generally
valuable outside their set grooves.
In almost every phase of civilized
life there is a tendency OF give ana
take with the other multlfarlous
phases of professional, cultural and
commercial advancement.
In other words theory and prac-
tice are no longer distinct but are
rapidly intermingling wherever one
looks. They are as a house which
cannot stand if divided, but which
NAV rise to infinite heights when
united
A case in point is on every hand.
An interesting example is that OF
Miss Grace Ely, of the Pittsburgh
University Graduate School, devoted
to design. art in dress, textiles and
fabrics.
Miss Ely comes of a family of
teachers. Her father is a college
professor. Many of her relatives
have followed that bent. Miss Ely
decided to be the eclectic; to go IN
for business instead of teaching.
She got her degrees in designing
and allied subjects at Columbia
University; then turned toward the
business world to express her
training in profession. The bust
ness to which she turned was a
great Eastern store. 1t immediate
ly bounced upon her with combined
requirements. She was to be part
of it's program, certainly, but she
was to teach the sales force more
understanding of the merchandise
ing value in color; color comblna-
tions: affinity to color of woods,
rayons. silks. cottons and linens;
the developments and Importance OF
weaves and knits; of designs both
in fabrics and dress-making.
"And so" smiles this charming
business professor" teaching
caught me whether would or not"
Now Miss Ely is still claimed by
both the Collegiate and commercial
worlds. She heads today the grad
uate school of design art in dress
and merchandising at Pittsburgh
University. Her students are all
college graduates who are taking
their master degrees for thesake OF
further theoretical and practical
training which will prepare them
for careers as practical designers,
stylists, and the many other fields
now open to trained women in the
Joined world of art-plus-busi-
ness.
There is a particular tie-up- to-
day between the textile manufactur-
ers of the business world and the
academic courses in costuming and
fashions. 1t is generally agreed
that all new fashions are closely
married to the developments of the
four older textiles, and the fifth
new textile, rayOn, which is play
ing such an important part in new
fashion weaves, new color combina-
lions and new fabric designs. Mrs.
Carolyn Lewis, the woman style
exponent of one of the great silk
houses of this country said recently
in speaking before a college group:
1.-THE inspiration for new fashions
goes hand in hand today with the
development of new types of yarns
and fabrics. We are primarily, for
instance, a silk house but we are
finding great use for that interest
ing development of the industrial
and scientific world, called rayOn-
a general basic textile word adopt
ed by the National Silk Association
and the Department of Commerce.
Since it has been so much applied
to underwear as a general descript-
i've name, outside the art and in
dustrial paths, many persons find
it difficult to understand that its
use has brOadened to the point that
it is a trusted aid in the evolution
of color and design in fine fabrics.
Because of its affinity for color we
have been able to develop many
interesting cross dye effects and
other artistically fine projections.
It's use, obviously, does not cheap
Ell fabric but some times adds.
On account of rayon's specific
gravity we must use more of it
than of silk in combinations. Then,
too, it must be specially prepared
for the looms in all the processes
of winding, warping and weaving"
Here, once again, we have the
inventive brain of man reaching out
to occupy both artistic and COM
ss,1 L.