Evening star., 1928-10-28

~ NE hears about the teXtual
quality of the furs now in
vogue. That means of course
~ that furs are no longer handled
like stiff leathery peltries, but
are manipulated with almost the same
freedom as silks and satins, velvets
and cloth. 1t also means that the furs
that may be made most pliable are
those most in demand for wraps and
often for trimming. The heavier,
thicker furs that do not possess tex
tural quality are used only for trim
mings or now and then for a coat of
purely sports sort that is to be worn in
cold weather
This tendency toward softer, more
plant furS Is nothing new For several
seasons fashion has laid especial en-
pfasis on furs such as ermine, caracul,
lamb and mink that would lend them
selves to manipulation. Most women of
fashion draw their fine furs about them
satisfied with their silky softness and
the assurance that they conform as
gracefully to the lines of the prescribed
SilhouetteS as satin or broadcloth-with-
out stopping to think how many CEN
turies Of experimenting have brought
about furS of such quality.
The all-fur wrap is apparently as i'm
portant as ever in the well-dreSsed
womar'S wardrobe, but the cloth coat
trimmed with fur is just as important
and there is no rigid line of difference
between the fashions followed in the
two types of coat In each there is the
tendency toward greater fullneSs, in
geniouSly contrived so as not to add the
appearance of greater bulk; there are
Straightline coatS-never skimpy this
SeaSon-of cloth as well as fur-and
both sorts are represented in the new
hared garments.
Three Of the all-fur wraps we have
chosen for illustration are very de-
cidedly In the luxury class and are suit
able for the more formal sort of wear.
The wrap Of eTnine is appropriate only
for evening, while the mink and the
broadtail might be selected either for
formal afternoon wear or for evening.
The coat Of gopher or chipnunk, the
strips OF which are set together with
braid, is a good all-around sort of coat
suitable for sports as we'll as street.
The kidSkin jacket is an example of
type of garment for which / do not
hesitate to phophesy increased popu-
larity as the season advances, and the
straightline black Persian lamb made
with a small stock collar of the same
fur would be suitable for almost any
occasion. American broadtail or other
less expensive black lamb or kid furs
are used for straightline coats that are
much less expensive but decidedly
smart.
BY virtue of their textural quail
ties all the lamb and kid furs are in
favor and these are frequently used as
trimming on coats and frocks where
fiat fur is needed. OF the long hair
furs for trimmings. foxes lead. There
is much lynx, usually in blonde or nat
ural tones. Wolf makes its appearance
sometimes Brown beaver on beige
fabric is as smart as it was a season
ago. Krimmer is the smartest choice
for the new gray blue tones, but blue
Persian lamb or csracul are repeatedly
chosen for coats of colored cloth-wine
red, green, bright blue or even with
brown.
Among the furs still used for the less
expensive coats might be listed lamb
not Persiai1-peny muskrat hair seal,
Australian opossunl dyed muskrat and
raccoon. Brown caracul. gray squlr-
rel, beaver, are among the somewhat
more expensive flrs.
(CopyriEht, 1927