Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-07-29

fabrics. There are soft plant
fabrics like chiffonS--inaterials
that always have been soft
and pliant; criSper materials, like
taffeta and organdie. Then there
are the fabrics additionally plant and
soft that are now made crtsp--lac-
ouerei and starch chiffon and glazed
tulle among them: and the crisp mate
rials that in the hands OF the ingenious
fabric makers Of today have become
supple and pliant--chiffon tatfetas and
crepe Sstins, for instance.
The prediction is made that more
than ever the sitter. criSper types OF
material will be used for late Summer
and Autumn froC6S. But these new
materials are ny no means as stiff as
beard. for they are usually decidedly
light In weight. The new satins and
metres for instance, are not like their
predecessors, of which IL was hoasted
that they would stand alone. Still they
are really crisp. AMI the tendency is no
longer TO make only chiffon and crepe
versions of all manner of fabrics True.
crepe satirs and chiffon velvets will be
used, but undoubtedly more Of the
criSper sorts will be utilized,
Meantime some Of the materials here
tofore of the more dropping sort have
been brought out with the crispness so
much admired, Laequered and starched
chiffon. glazed tulle. cire crepe satin
are already frequently 20 be seen in the
sn1arteSt war6robes Taffeta. which he's
has only occasionally been seen In
early Summer clothes is coming to the
front, as we'll dressed women seek
something different from the chiffons
sno silk crepeS they have been wearing
50 much.
And undoubtedly fables and other
corded silks Will come into prominence
for late Summer and early Autumn
street wear Fables printed in smart,
~s.sn patterns, suggesting the woven
pattern Of WOODEN tweeds. have been
used by some of the smart dreSSnakerS
fer the type of frock that well dressed
women like to wear in town.
To printed chiffon should so the first
rrire SO far as popular approval is con-
cerned this Summer have Just passed
an afternoon at a rather overpopular.
certainly overcrowded, beach resort, and
mr. impression is that out Of 10 OF
the women I saw, old. young. fat, thin.
fair and otherwise. were wearing chiffon
frccks. most Of them wildly printed.
AT the smarter, more exclusive re-
sorts you see ehiffons in the daytime as
well as in the evening. but you also see
cottons and linens. variety of silks
materials. which may be worn quite
comfortably on many Summer days.
Variety in fabrics Is certainly the spice
o. which many women's wardrobes are
a. need
OF all cotton fabrics organdie-espe-
ciallv printed organdie--has met with
the most noteworthy reception, but
among the best dressed women wide
variety Of other cotton materials also
finds favor, Velveteen is used for en-
tire suits for sports wear at cooler re-
sorts or for short jackets chosen for
Erit-weiciat frocks. Piuue. both plain
and figured, plays an important role in
SPORTS fashions and has not fortunately
become commonplace. Cotton broad
cloth. plain in tone or printed, has also
been used extensively.
II would be diverting and instructive
10 the women interested in fabrics to
draw sort Of family tree OF all the
many different sorts of fabrics that are
gursad before her IN such lavish array.
The trunk of this tree would. ] sup
pose. represent the simplest Of all forms
OF weaving. similar to the sort that
occurs in darning. This was the earli-
est s1rt CT weaving and we NAV pre-
Eurne that ages past before manor
wonien-deVisad anything more compli-
Gated.
By using threads Of different colors
r. was possible 10 produce great va
fistg. Of patterns Of checked and plaid
variety
Primitive though this may be. 1t still
remains the frmest and most durable
of all weaVes ana is the one still en-
sploved for sheets. for many types OF
linen end a variety of dress and up
holstery fabrics So in drawing cur
family tree Of fabrics we should have
20 indicate branch shooting OF fairly
sow down on the trunk and from this
branch other smaller branches to iIldi-
cate handkerchief linen, Bingham. or
candle
Tv4n weaving indicated a step for
ward in the art Of primitive textile
workers, making possible workout OF
various patterns in the weaving without
use Of different colors. Among the
more advanced Of the twill weaves are
herringbone designs and various tweeds
in some OF which the pattern is work
ed BY means Of different colored threads
es vel as By the twflling.
The third branch from the main
trunk would have TO represent satin
weaving which marked an even more
advanced stage of the textile art
According 10 authorities on the sub
3ecf. all woven fabrics may be classified
according TO one Of these three forms
Of weaving or by a combination of two
Reps and taffetas are varieties of sim
pie weaving. DamaSkE and brocades
may be considered as varieties of satins.
Simple velvets might be considered as a
sort of plain weave with extra weft
or warp threads brought up In loops
and then cut. In terry cloth and Turk
tsh toweiing these loops are left uncut.
Copyright, 1921