Evening star., 1928-12-23
BY NANCY FOREMAN MUNCE.

VITALITY in old Virginia, land
~ of hospitality, where the art of
entertaining and the skill of
housekeeping reached high perfection.
In going over some old books recently,
the writer came across cook book writ
ten in the hand of Virginia lady of
long ago. The volume is a curious mix
tdre of household wisdom, homemade
medical remedies and famous dishes,
which she had seen fit to record. With
this book in hand and the thought of
approaching Christmas, back from fleet
ing memories and the stories of child
hood came the picture of gala Christ
mas scene before the war"
One can almost paint in their imagi-
nation the picture Of the great dining
rom in a colonial home, and the fes-
tive scene which it presented; presided
over by the "Missus," whose gracious
ness and wit were equaled only by her
managerial ability and culinary skill.
Before her was spread the grand feast
% the year, when she put before her
family and friends, gathered for this
anost important celebration. the best
things that the storerom and kitchen
of her establishment could produce.
One can see in the glowing candle
light the soft portraits on the wall, the
great Sideboard with the decanterS of
wine, the table covered with snowy
damask and age-old silver, surrounded
by shining faces, every one dressed in
). their best; and waited on by ebony
7 Ablacks, all doing honor to that "MiSSus"
'Jwhose imagination had conceived the
+ repast before them.
It was the holiday time of the year,
and these people, whose grandfathers
had come to the new country bringing
with them the traditional English ap-
probation of good food, had added to
this inheritance the delicacies of the
New World, and an appetite whetted by
Christmas cheer. The dinner began
with soup, then came the great plat
ters of game and meats; the golden
brown turkey surrounded by its accom-
panying quail, an old ham, hauncn
of venison, a Spiced round of beef, anc
with them the side dishes of creamed
oysters, candied sweet potatoes, roasted |
apples, and collards; great array OF
sour and sweet pickles. sauces and
jellieS, everything that would add flavor |
and Zest to each epicurean tid-bit.
The host stands with his great
carvers, razor edged, and serves each |
one until the plate is overf1owing. With |
each course goes its appropriate Wine |
and then 'piling Pelion on Ossa," comes |
those things in which the "Missus"
takes the greatest pride, the desserts; |
tipsy cake and plum pudding, fruit |
Cdkc dIlO pOullQ Cane, GdC11 d uIooOCI- /
piece, and last the coffee and liquors. |
The 'MiSsus'" face is wreathed in |
smiles, the pleasure and satisfaction |
written on the faces of her family and |
guests is the great reward for her |
efforts.
REHIND this scene one can see the |
- days of preparation in the kitchen |
out in the yard That great kitchen |
with its huge fireplace, brick oven, |
crane, and many wonderful cooking |
utensils, shining copper kettles, iron |
pots, trivetS, spits and gadgetS whose |
names are lost to my memory; presided |
over by AUNT America" shining black,
and 200 pounds of capable womanhood; |
and her assistants, who turn the SpitS,
bring her water, tend her fire, and are
at her every beck and call. It was to
"Aunt America" that the orders were
given, and it was Aunt America" who,
following the "Missus'" instructions,
from those carefully recorded recipes,
compounded the wonderful viands,
which make the mouth water even in
memory.
the recipes calling for prodigiouS
amounts of what would be today almost
priceless ingredients, but then they
were home produced, and were used
with a reckless prodigality by those
who did not have to count the cost, as
the housekeepers of today necessarily
must. Imagine the present-day house.
keeper when she wanted to make soup
stock, buying two whole shins and Is
or 20 pounds of other beef. My cook
book records the way to make soup
stock as follows:
EARLY IN the morning put two Shins
and fifteen or twenty pounds OF coarse
beef in eight gallons of cold water.
Boil eight or ten hours, keeping it
covered all the time Carefully skim
of all the grease. Put in two onions,
sliced, a handful of celery, six turnipS,
cut up, four pods of red pepper, half
an ounce each of cloves and mace, a
tablespoonful of black pepper, garden
herbs, such as Savory, Winter and SUM-
mer, thyme and marjoram, table
spoonful of each powdered; and six
slices of lean him. From eight, this stock
should be boiled down to four gallons.
When properly boiled strain it through
flannel three or four double, and when
cold it will be fine jelly, and will keep
In Winter fortnight, in Summer on
ice, four or five days. For tureen OF
the soup take two quarts of the jelly,
adding any additional seasoning that
your taste suggests. Always remember,
however, that it is better to put rather
too little than too much, because a
deficiency may be supplemented by the
caStorS at the table, but no skill can
atone for carelessly overturning either
the salt cellar or pepper cruett into the
soup. AS soon as the soup stock bolls
send It to the table. Stock should be
made without any salt, as that spoils
1hs cclor."