Evening star., 1928-11-25
Tweeds Appear to Dominate the Field of Fashionable Fabr
BY MARY MARSHALL.

1929 may well be remembered
as the Tweed Season. Probably
A tweedS have never been used SC
plentifully and certainly they
have never enjoyed SO high position
in the hierarchy of fashion.
We are not satisfied merely with
tweeds that are tweeds. Other materials
OF different sort and weave assume new
interest If they are made to suggest
tweed patterning and finish. There are
cotton materials printed to suggest the
crows foot of real tweed mixtures. SILK
crepes in small two-toned designs to
look like a variety. of small tweed pat
terms There is wool crepe with a
''tweedy" finish and jerseys and other
knitted fabrics that very closely re-
semble the small-patterned real tweeds.
In dispatch from Paris concerning
the costumes chosen for street wear
by the bsst-dressed French women
there was reference several times to
''tweedlike black materials" Perhaps
the material really was black tweed,
only nowadays there are so many
tweedy looking materials that really
aren't tweedS that 1t is on the safe side
to call them all simply "tweedlike.
Tweeds are still worn for sports and
street just as extensively in France as
in this country, but there Is a growing
interest in broadcloth, especially broad
cloth for the more formal sort of street
costume, among French women. There
is a new lightweight woolen material
called cashmere broadcloth. Other
woolen materials that the woman In
terested in the question of dress should
at least know by sight this season are
the various wool crepes, such as wool
marocain, etamine, toile de laine, the
new basket weaves and the "nubbed"
woolens that have been used extensively
for outdoor ensembles.
Bear in mind also the continued and
increasing importance of the jersey type
of woolen materials, and the fact that
Velveteen is very much used for the
Jackets or coats in connection with
wooden skirts of lightweight woolen
materials, while velvets of various sorts
still continue TO play the important role
that was predicted for them this season.
For evening wear the sheer velvets
ought to be given first place, because
they really are important even though
you may personally prefer to wear
some other sort Of material. There are
sitter velvets. too. that lend themselves
to the manipulation of pouffeS, buStles
and various outstanding types of
Grapery For formal afternoon wear the
sheer velvets will doubtless continue in
favor throughout the season. Dotted and
plaided velvets have been used for soma
CT the midSeason French coat costumes.
Certainly tulle should be considered
as a possibility for the Esw evening
gowns though its fragi!iev makes
tulle evening frock a luxury item in the
wardrObeS of most women. Durability
is hardly an adjective thai one would
apply to chiffon velvet either, and
sometimes the fact that new evening
gown is a. fragile sort of thing that
must appear but few times and then
Betire cnly endears it to us.
Chiffon and georgette are far mSre
durable and for the woman who gives
her evening gowns fairly hard wear
these should be considered. Some of
the srnartest evening gowns OF the sea-
son have been made from that fabric
which holds such an importans place
in the consideration of the distinguished
French dreSSmaker-Satin crepe. It is
also used for afternoon gowns and for
separate blouseS to be worn with coat
costumes.
Don't forget the possibilities of taf-
feta which comes to us this season in
a rather sitter form than we have re-
Gently seen and lends itself admirably
to the demands of the more bouffant
type OF afternoon or evening frock.
These crisp taffetas printed in large
softly colored designs are gaining in
favor among well dressed women
Satin Of the old-time, c1e-Side sort
not the more usual crepe satin-has
been revived. 1t is especially smart in
black and white or ivory or some of the
very light tiiits. For The frock of
brighter color--richA royal blue, or any
of the much favored red toneS-moire
il a better selection than satin, be-
cause OF the duller surface of the ma
teriai
For separate blouses, to wear with
the highly favored coat costume or with
the separate pleated skirt there are
many materials to choose from. For
more formal wear velvetS. various me-
tallic materials and satin crepe are
excellent. For less formal wear I
would include satin crepe, with crepe
de chine and other similar silk crepeS,
with various printed silks Of the crepe /
sort and cravat or tie silk. Usually it
Is we'll TO choose a figured or printed
material for the blouse to be worn with
the plain coIored suit material and a
plain colored material with the two
toned suit or coat
Cashmere and similar soft wooden
materials are used for simple daytime
lAOCAS anu b1lS sOV6TplOllSe OF LneSe ma
terials recommends itself for cold
weather Never were there SO many
wooden materials to choose
from. Even il you buy your frocks all
ready made and do not buy a yard
Of material In twelve months advise
you to go to some well stocked dry
goods store and browse around the de-
partment where dress goods are sold,
think 1t will provide your esthetic
@nse as much of thrill as going to
an art museum and you will be much
letter qualified to select your next frock
or suit or wrap as consequence.
And while you make your inspection
stop to see the new lightweight wool
ems that are triumph of the textile
Sort-the new wool crepes, wool maro-
cain, basket weaVes, toile oe laine and
etamine. Give more than a passing
glance to the knitted wooden materials
Jerseys that look like tweeds and the
new lacy sort that are to play such an
important role in wardrobss chosen for
wear at Southern resorts after Christ
mas