New Britain herald., 1928-11-01
BY HENRI BENDEL

New 4Ork, NOV. ]. - The 1lrSt principle of the successful evening gown is to have its elegance built around the modern princess theme.
 Not that one sees many simple standing feature of the present mode for formal occasions is the slightly nodded line that accentu- ates slimness. at least down to or about the hipline.
 From the hipline. ones gown may trail into a long train. de- velop minaret tiers, affect pep lum or some skillful drape or godet effects. It may have de- cidedly uneven hem and great movement and fullness in its width. But its basic feature is the straight body feeling.
 Avoids Bulges
 Irregularity is controlled and skillful on this winters evening gowns. Instead of puffs and drapes that make for bulk, there are in- tricate cuttings, piecings, incrusta- tons. overlapping panels and fitr ted tiers that hew to a svelt sil- houette. Elegance, finish and for mality is the new order. No one material is preferable to all others for new evening gowns. VelvetA lame. lace, satin. stiff taf- fetas. brocades, satin brooches. tulle. chiffons and fancy fabrics all are used. I prints are prefer- red the pattern should be sub servient to the color, and almost invisible patterns add rich eie- gance that a dashing, obvious print never achieves.
 The peplum gown is new this autumn and most charmingly in- terpreted In a faille taffeta in the new rose-red, clear. light rosy shade that has the enhancing quality of pink. and the stimulat- ing beauty of red.
 Full Hut Not Boufsant
 This gown has such elegance in its material that it takes no trim, beyond a charming little yoke of pink chiffon and the pert, chic little peplum which is wired to stand out beyond the skirts full ness.
 The cut of this full skirt is such as to give ample fullness but yet have no suggestion of bouffant. Its irregular. sweeping hemline is especially good for such rich ma terial that falls in exceptionally graceful lines. A little bow of self material marks the center front of the peplum. Pompadour taffeta is perfect. with its elegance and gentle, firm character. for the revival of the hustle of the 'S0's. Louisebou- langer uses rose and black pompa- which has a straight. severe front and then gathers into bustle eff feet with A train in the rear. This return of the train is indi- cative of the formality of this win- ter's modes. For with trains sweeping the floor, what woman could be other than dignified, for maI. elegant!
 This taffeta frock does not, however, follow the protruding hustle fashions of another day. In line with the tendency to keep things as svelt and flat as possible. this hustle has its fullness flatten- ed into rosettes. which make for a new silhouette.
 The black dinner gown is al- most a necessity these days. l show one by Augusta Bernard which has several new points of chic.
 It has a circular flounce. posed on the straight line silhouette in a skillful manner to achieve a diagonal line both front and back, short sides and . dipping front and back.
 The bodice has an irregular neckline that follows the dagnonal line of the skirt and both the front with the rear of the boaice are cut with a diagonal line marked across them. This is a perfect ex- ! ample of how the truly smart gowns this winter stick to the princess foundation.
 The only ornamentation on this cleverly cut gown is diamond and ebony brooch. of extreme ele- gance and beauty.