Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1928-03-11
BY c. MORAN.

"A SEXTET OF Government off,
~ Gals were chewing roast beef AT
"A a huge table. They chewed de-
4 a liberately. Some of them frown-
ed as they chewed; others as
sunied an expression OF mild ecstasy
AS each swallowed morsel. he woulc
make pencil notations on a score card
and then reach for another helping
from one Of the several roasts on the
table.
These Government food tasters have
eaten Of hundreds Of roaStS of beef
and lamb in series of "palatabiiity
tests by the United States Department
Of Agriculture. Similar tests have been
made recently Of ice cream. the food
tasters being instructed TO eat their
I'LL in room fairly cranlmed with the
frozen dainty. The department has
its tea tasterS, who also taste grape
juice used in Veterans Bureau hos
pitals; its butter and cheese taSters.
The departments dietary experts
have been studying nutrition problems
for more than quarter of century,
Glass StonlachS have been built which
simulate the digestive processes of the
human stomach. and rats are used 10
determine bodybuilding qualities. Only
the human palate. however. has been
found capable Of testing foods for
taste
To the housewife a roast Of beef is
either expensive or cheap tender or
tough. But TO the Government nu-
triton and aninal-husbandry experts,
q roast OF beef involves such questions
as texture. marbling. favor. age. sex
breeding and feeding.
Housewives long have heard the
preachment that the cheaper cuts of
meat may be cooked with fine palatabil-
fly. but rare is the housewife who pre-
fers flank steak or chuck roast to
an !nch-and-a-half porterhouse or a
rib cut.
The meats used in the Government
palatability tests come from specially
bred. fed and fattened live stock
slaughtered under Federal specifica-
tons and cooked with all the skill of
IS years of culinary experience in the
Department of Agriculture experimental
kitchen.
Approximately 1000 animals were fed
cut last year at the various experiment
stations of the department in connec-
ton with the palatability project. One
hundred and fifty-three of the best Of
these animals we're shipped to the de-
partment's farm at Beltsville. Nd. for
slaughter. Detailed laboratory. cook
ing and palatability studies were then
made on rib samples from these cattle.
IN comparison with cattle slaughtered
ut central markets.
The meats are subjected to physical
and chemical analyses. color readings
and astrological examinations. Me-
chanical tests for tenderness are made
by placing the meats in vises and
twisting them until they pull apart,
the power exerted in each case being
IL 81, ]nl Niza q -
photographed from this angle and that,
and tracings made of them. They are
graded as to quality. and having sat-
;sred the combined requirements OF
scientific ingenuity, they are passed
20 the department chefs, who stick
thermometers into them and cook them
In carefully regulated ovens.
THE principal study has been with
cattle and beef. but considerable
amount OF work has been done with
lambs and lamb meat and beginning
has been made on hogs and pork.
There were 48l lambs slaughtered at
Beltsville last year. IN connection with
eual!ty-in-meat experiments. Com
plete records, including judging OF
paiatability. have been made on EGO OF
these. The lambs included all OF the
Western range varieties produced at the
departments sheep experiment station
At Dubois. Idaho. and fattened at Pur-
due University.
There has been an unfortunate ten
dency on the part OF students Of autri-
ton, according 10 the department ex-
perts, to underestimate the importance
Of paiatability. individual preferences
and family customs in the diet. In
deed. many food customs have been
formed IN response 70 instructive re-
cuirements OF the body. In early days,
people went TO considerable trouble TO
gather wild herbs and greens Of vari-
ors kinds, but not until recently was
r. known that these foods provide an
important dietary principle necessary
for health.
The criticism OF present-day eating
habits, say the experts. is that a meal