Evening star., 1928-05-13

TT is the hair, not the nat. Cnal
- makes a woman beautiful" they
used to say in the days before
the fashion for shorn locks. and
hats that all but covered every
last spear of hair. Now it's the hat,
not the hair that makes the big oiier-
ence." said the milliner's a little later.
In truth it is neither hair nor hat
alone that gives woman the greatest
advantage. 1t is the way she wears the
hat.
spent the afternoon the other day
at a benefit bridge attended for The
most part by women of social proml-
nence AS looked about / was struck
hy the smartnesS and good taste OF the
millinery displayed. With one or two
notable exceptions every hat was up-to-
date. In good taste and entirely ar-
propriste for the occasion
s:St why was it, wondered, that oG1
of the hundred or so women present
less than half did justice to their mll-
liners? Simply because more than hall
OF the women wore their hats all wrong.
There was the usual contingency OF
extremely conservative older women
who wear their hats too high up un
their heads as matter OF principle
They are often willing TO wear frockS OF
the latest cut. they dress with infinite
precision-~a precision that one seldom
finds with the girls Of the younger gen.
eration-they adopt new fashions IN
sewelry, and their hats are expensive
and usually up-to-date.
But let a daring daughter or a pre-
eumptuous milliner suggest that they
wear them down on their heads IN the
way they we're intended. TO be worn ana
they are positively scandalized. They
would as soon smoke in public or dance
the Black Bottom.
Then there was another group OF
women who wear their hats at the
wrong angle simply through careless
ness and lack of clothes sense. one
hat too large. another too small--an-
other put on too far back and another
too far forward. There was woman
wearing an obviously expensive replica
of Agnes wrapped turban-posSihly an
original import-the effect all spoiled
because of the wisps of hair showing
here and there at back and side
wisps that it would have taken Just one
glance in the mirror to detect and only
0 few seconds manipulation to conceal.
A third group of women wear their
hats all wrong not through any con-
scientious objection to wearing them
far enough down on their heads, or
through any glaring lack OF clothes
sense, but because their heads are
either too small or too large or other
wise wrongly proportioned for ready
made hats. and they have not learned
that under the circumstances their
hats must be made to order.
No group Of well dressed women now
would look quite complete without
snree types of hats--the close brimless
hat, the small-brimmed hat and the
very wide-brimmed hat. For sports
wear the sInall-brinmed hat Is the
rule. For morning or street wear the
brimless or narrow -brimmed hat-and
evening hats are for the most part
brimless But with the group of
women you meet at luncheon or tea
time the three types of hats are almost
invariably included-and somehow the
picture wouldn't look right If they were
not all there.
One thing that characterizes all
three types of hat is the downward
extension at the back of the head
first designed to cover up the unat-
tractive shorn surface of the nape OF
the neck. and now continued as mat
ter Of fashion.
The brinlleSS hats are of three sorts
the close skull caps, the draped tur-
bans--both of which are often made
with slight eyebrow peak In the front
and the new berets. which are made
with slightly puffed top and closely
drawn band. They are worn well down
on the forehead.
Many Of the narrow -brimmed hats
are made with a modified poke shape
and the poke suggestion is also found
In the wIde-brimmed hats, though usu-
ally the wide brinn extends down at