Evening star., 1928-10-14
BY MARY MARSHALL.

P@~F'TSSf
possibly be regarded a. a sort o
4 imit-dress-allowance ALTERNATIVE
for the fur coat. nor can fu
trimming be looked upon as a consola
ton for not wearing an al1-fur coat
Though this point of view Is hardly :
fashionable attitude toward Winter
wraps at any time. 1t has surely been
popular one But these new cloth coat
grove its absurdity. There is nothing
second best about them.
It l., not a question of choosing be-
tween the fur coat and the cloth coat
counting your pennies-considering thf
high cost of gasoline and the hlenei
cost of food and then deciding whether
or not you can afford to be coated al
in fur or not, because as things are
now the cloth coat may be every bit
as expensive as the fur one and there
are fur coats well below the price ot
many Of the new coats Of cloth and
fur. There are times. places, occasions
and moods for both types Of coats and
in the WARDROBE of the woman of fash
ion they hang side by side without COM
peting for honors.
There were women-and still are. !
auppose-who have felt that definite
choice should be made between the two
sorts of coats. A fur coat like the Old
time WOODEN underwear. was something
that YOU had to wear through the sea-
son or not at all. So you decided either
for fur coats or cloth coats and YOU q
catch your death of cold if you tried
to wear first one sort and then the
Other the same season. That seemed
to be the idea, and the woman with
rnlv one fur coat was likely to appear
Ccing her morning marketing IN. Per-
sian lamb or going to an evening party
in musxrat.
Early last Spring ] CHANGED to meet
a usually we'll dressed young neighbor
Of mine kneeling in the path Of her
rose garden. She was experimenting
the work of her new gardener and she
wore old shoes workman's gloves End
baby lamb coat. l commented on the
rather amazing incongruity OF her cos
tums and she explained, as she brushed
briars from the soft, silky peltry OF her
coat, that she had only two fur coats
the one she was wearing and an ernl!ne
one for evening. And as she did not
think 1t was warm enough to give no
furs entirely. and as she had wanted to
direct the work in the rose garden. she
had Just put on the baby lamb coat.
That. of course. is an extreme case.
Still there are plenty of women VINO
feel thai they should stick to fur
coat once they have started to wear It.
But this really is mcst inconvenl2nt
and now that fur coats are made Of
peltries Of the thinner. more fsbrlc-like
sort. and cloth coats are as warm and
cozv as YOU please. it is an absurd stti-
tude. If you take care to wear your
heavy fur coat with fairly thin frock
and your fllrless cloth coat with
uoelen frock there is no reason why
you shouldn't feel as we'll protected in
cne as the other.
Cloth coats without fur of any sort
are chosen bv some women for sports
end travel. The seasoned ocean vov-
ager usually prefers coat of this sort,
made of soft but lightweight camcls
cloth or one of the new coat tweeds
End with e generously built rolling col
lar that may be worn up around the
neck and face to give ample protection
without, fur Almost always coats Of
this description this season are made
with a flare-not the flare that starts
from below the hips. but the fare from
the shouIder-cleverly designed TO give
the new effect of fullness without as
matter of fact detracting from the
EIenderness of the figure.
One excellent model of this SORT,
made of soft wool mixture. has raglan
sleeves. seams with double row of
stitching, mannish collar that can.
however. be turned up to give ample
protection and a buckled belt placed
almost at the normal waist line. It is
drawn in slightly when properly adj
justed, giving that effect of gathering
IN at the waistline that the more
slender woman finds so becoming.
Coats for afternoon, including those
that are part of afternoon ensembles,
are almost always collared with fir,
and fur frequently forms cuffs of gen.
erous dimensions and sometimes edges
eide panels or forms full borders a.
well. This season, when woman can
afford it. she has really fine peltry tor
thsse trimmings The time has passed
when rabbit would do as well as erm1ne
and goat would answer the purposes of
Persian lamb for trimming 1t is
season of lavishness and the woman OF
wealth is given to understand by her
dressmaker that sable and ermine, Per-
sian lamb and the best fox fur are none
too good to trim the cloth coat.
Fox is often used and usually in nat
ural or at least naturalistic tones. A
black velvet ensemble worn with q
blouse Of metallic stripes Of bronze
tone has a full. short collar of red toX
with cuffs Of the same fur. Black fox.
silver fox and pointed fox are chosen
for many of the smart black coats of
velvet or broadcloth. Black lynx is
sometimes used for the all-hlack cos
tune, but this season lynx is at its best
in the natural. grayish tones A coat
Of sports suggestion that a young
woman might wear for afternoon is
one of the new figured tweeds in black,
gray and q yellowish beige and the gen.
erous cuffs and collar that extends to
the waist are Of this natural colorcd
Canadian lynx.
One of the most generally admired
ensembles + have seen was OF the nsw
bright red with straight border of nat
ural Canadian lynx on the skirt--a
generous collar trimming of the same
fur and cuffs left untrimmed.
To Trim coats of the new vine red
tones black is usually chosen-fox nr
lynx If you want 2 full collar or black
Persian lamb if you prefer the flsttcr
peltry. Sometimes black Persian lamb
or other black furs ere used to trim
coats of the new blue tcnes-though
the ensrtest effect with blue I think
is gained when it is ccllared with gray
krimmer
Beaver. which was revived for An
turan by one or two of the more con-
servative French dressmakers, goes we'll
with the afternoon ensemble of brown
or beige.
Copyright. 1921
Dwarf Trees of Japan.