The broad ax., 1927-04-09
Bloused Waist Is
Favored In Paris
Wide, Fitted Belt, Straight
Skirt Are in Fashion
This Season.

Midseason collections of fashions
just now being shown in Paris con-
firm, In one way at least, the asser-
ton repeatedly made by the French
designers, that styles develop logically
from what has gone before and that
they themselves are powerless to
change that trend. The already IA
miliar waist, bloused behind, notes
Paris fashion correspondent in the
New York Times, proves the truth of
this contention by becoming the waist
bloused all around, the most signifi-
cant note, perhaps, of the new exhibit
tons.
To avoid an effect of heaviness with
this bloused waist the skirts of the
new gowns have become much less
elaborate and straighter in line than
they have been for some time. They
are quite often entirely plain, wrapped
about the figure with an overlapping
flap at the side, either front or back,
much as the remembered sheath skirt
was. Where elaboration Is required,
the skirt is shown In straight tiers,
circular fullness inserted at either side
of the front, or else it is made with a
tight underskirt with the fuller over
skirt split into four or more panels.
Between this waist, bloused all around,
and the straight-line skirt, is generally
a belt about four inches in width, half
above and half crossing the hip. 1t is
fitted smoothly at all times and often
set into the gown itself, affording
most pleasing effect.
The lOng-itted sleeve extending over
the hand in a pointed or curved out
line is chosen most frequently to ac-
company this new silhouette, though
the choice is not limited to the one
style. Perhaps the type second In
favor Is the bell sleeve with a little
pulled undersleeve of lace or contrast
ing material.
For afternoon gowns soft satin In
both black and colors, its sheen not
too high, Is taking the place in the
spotlight lately held by crepe de chine.
Anna shows a charming black and
white study In a supple black satin
that incorporates many Of the new
ideas sponsored for the midseason.
The waist OF this gown is, of course,
bloused moderately all around, but the
skirt, while preserving Its close
straight outline, is given elegance by
q fiat cut-out flounce that begins as a
narrow panel on the left hip attached
under q double row Of small white
buttons, swings around the front Of
the skirt as an applied eight-inch
border and comes up the right side
where 1t forms a short but bouffant
side drapery. Black and white striped
ribbon, two inches in width, faces the
straight collar that can be worn
wrapped about the neck, made with
the aid Of the double row Of white
buttons. There is a chic cuff about
the long-fltted sleeves; and attention
Is further drawn to the wide-swathed
belt. The front of the waist along
each side of the collar opening has Its
double row Of glistening white but
tons also.
Plalds are a notable feature Of these
new collections, used both as trim
mings and as whole garments. Drecoll
lines smart coat Of navy blue crepel-
la, bound with black braid, with a
plaid silk softer than taffeta In tones
of green, yellow and red. The collar
Of this coat. faced In the plaid, is
cut like the collar Of a motor coat
and could be worn fastened snugly
about the neck with buttoned flap
to hold It in place. The fronts Of
the coat are faced with plaid end
turned back to form full length lapels.
With this is worn a dress of navy
crepella, piped In red, with collar and
cuffs of the plaid.