Evening star., 1927-04-12
HARD-COLLAR STYLE.
HOPEDFORBY TROY
Two of Biggest Shops in New
York Town Are Closed,
Due to Slump.
By j. C. ROYLE.

Special Dispatch TO The Star.
TROY, n. Y. April 12.--One great
American industry which has fallen
on hard times is hopefully awaiting
the turn of the wheel that will bring
back it's pristine glory. That is the
collar industry. which consumes huge
quantities of textile materials each
, year and gives employment TO many
thousands of people.
Passing of the popularity of the
stiffly starched. detachable collar is
held responsible for the fact that oper-
atoms have been curtailed or stopped
entirely in some shops in the neck
wear centers. In Troy two of the
most substantial shops are idle en-
tireIy, one temporarily and one ap-
parently permanently. Many veteran
operatives have had to seek new lines
Of endeavor.
Collar-Attached Shirt.
Men prominent in the business say
the vogue of the collar-attached shirt
is what has cut into demand--a de-
mand which had been on the increase
for nearly 100 years since Mrs. Hams
Lord Montague Of Troy invented the
detachable collar. For years the house
where the inventor produced the first
detachable collar was a Troy land
mark.
The way the invention came about
is clearly outlined in letters written
by Mrs. Montague to relatives more
than 100 years ago. Her husband,
Orlando Montague, who was maker
OF women'S shoes, was what might col
loquially be termed classy dresser. "
Especially was he particular about
his linen. Mrs. Montague had her
housewife
has not, and found It hard to provide
for him with the requisite number of
shirts weekly without constant atten-
ton to the washtub, since re declined
to wear q shirt after the collar had
become slightly soiled.
Mrs. Montague says in her letters
that one day she was inspired and
taking a pair OF shears, cut off the
collar from the shirt and arranged a
piece of white tape at either end.
Mr.. Montague. she records, was not
Vkeen for the idea, but when he found
his friends enthusiastic over 1t, he
became reconciIed.
Collar Demand Grew.
Demand for the coll<rs began to
grow in nearby towns and Rev.
Ebenezer Brown, retired minister
who conducted a store in Troy, decided
to enter the business of making and
selling collars. In many quarters, he
has been credited with originating the
idea, but Troy historians deny this.
Various reasons are given for the
return of the collar-attached shirt.
One is the growth of outdoor sports.
especially golf throughout the United
States. Another is the natural trend
toward comfort in dress. Still third
is the tremendous expansion in the
srule and use of electric washing
machines In the homes.
Collar manufacturers, however, are
confident that the same causes which
led TO the invention and use of the
detached collar in 1926 viii again be-
come dominant factors in the near
future. They are supported by the
English style arbiters, who declare
they foresee a return to Starched
neckwear. Improved methods of
laundering have gone far to obviate
the saw edges which sometimes
distinguished the starched collars of
the past and the semi-soft types are
counted on to satisfy those who desire
no stiffness at all.
While the method outlined by Mrs
Montague may seem simple, the
development Of the haberdashery has
been much more complicated. Fifty
major operations are required to turn
out a finished collar. Many OF these
are performed by women. 1t is no
unusual thing in Troy factories to find
a grandmother, daughter and grand
daughter all working in the same
factory.