Evening star., 1927-11-27


i emma, Rome and Madrid. have
their annual Fine Art Salon.
So has the great automobile indus
| try it's annual Paris Salon, all but uni
versal. as 80 American companies ex-
hibiting in it knew well. The two
were open together-salons of a fine
art and of fine trade!
The cooks call theirs the Salon of
| Gastronomy, which means the art of
everything that goes into the stom-
ach. but chiefly cooked food. Cooking
is the fine art.
During this time the legal hunting
season has been open, to furnish
game. This is one reason why French
cooks choose the period for their
salon. A simmering wild hare in the
saucepan is of as much Importance as
the chef-d 'ouvre of household beef
la mode. Their art makes fancy
dishes plain and usual for ALL. and
plain dishes deliciously fancy
III cookery were not so technical
| there would be true news of the day
from the Cooks Salon-real "actuali-
| ties" more so than much real news"
| George Rector has just been writing.
from his memory, news of the time
| when he served his apprenticeship in
| the Marguery Restaurant kitchens,
world famous for their treatment, in
vented by them. of the English Chan
mel fish-"sole Marguery."
No enc knows more than Rector.
vet he can learn from the annual
cookery salons. in which the care and
pains of a whole people devoted to
tasty food result in new creations of
| their artist chefs.
There is no doubt that the game
season helps the gastronomic fine art.
and the spread of automobiles. which
beautiful art of making fancy dishes
plain and usual for all.
The uniformed doorman at my Paris
bank told me last week: 1--WE had
great shoot Sunday-rabbits and part
ridges"
The fact is. he got only five pieces,
| but they were wild, bagged in the
open, and they made cookery tri-
umph for the loving skill Of his wife.
| almost as justified as that of the bank
! directors high-paid chefs.
Women have not begun these tramp
| ing hunts of small game beyond the
suburbs, but men Of every class who
| can get a gun and pay nominal gov
ernment permit-clerks, artisans and
| day laborers-can go out on leisure
day and shoot delicious food for home,
in state forests and other mems fields.
| II the owner wants to keep them off
he must preserve"
This years game dish notably pop
ular in Paris restaurants is the Paris
variety Of jugged hare-that is TO say
wil6 hare served in the famous "civet. y
The "civet" gives you the tender.
slow cooked hare meat in rich, thick
sauce which forms the big part of the
dish-the game meat melting into it
amid cooked condiments and spices,
wine. blood. mushrooms of a special
kind and various cooks secrets-some
say that they add mashed chicken
livers and such material.
The "civet" is a meal all in itself.
So eagerly do men eat 1t they risk
discoloring the napkin with dark spots
of thick sauce from their lips
The hare--little rabbits big aristo-
'crat cousin-is almost as much an ar.
tist as the cook or the napkin.da bber,
for he gives ''go" to the festive flavor
by dancing in merry mazes with his
mates in forest glades by moonlight.
Now it is simply impossible to make
the "civet" without red Burgundy
wine cooked into it. In Normandy
they use sweet cider in cookery in