Evening star., 1926-06-13

HARIS.-The umbrella Silhouette
II is growing in favor : that is
umbrella from the waist down
1 10 he quite specific, the um
breliu must not be opened mon
neatly sheathed in its case. but
turned handle down with panels
fiaring. For over "A decade We had
The sheathed umbrella, and there
seemed danger of the widely bouffant
contour of the fully unfurled umbrella
but AN acceptable compromise has
been achieved.
In some OF the suits and wraps this
effect is gained by a tiaring OF the
fabric effected by "A circular cutting
or by Eodets, and the fullness is con
trolled by a pressing of the material
of the sort that has been spoken of
earlier in the season as trouser peat
ingS.
The cape is spoken OF in no uncer-
tain terms now. The sentiment in
America seemed to be that this might
be a passing fad--and that within a
few weeks it would become passe.
While it has not struck the woman
you see in the streets or the shoppers
In the big ma gains" or department
stores. almost every smart dressmaker
Is favorng the cape in some form or
other.
The cape and the coat with the
umbrella silhouette are almost ne
ccSSiieS. for the frock beneath must
Ice considered. and usually the frock
has tullnesS on tiarins from below
the hips. Just what form this fiar-
ing shall take the dresSmaker decides
after having studied the figure of the
woman who Is to wear the frock. For
the woman of broad build below the
hinS this flare is often achieved by
nf t,1a N at 10
side or across the front in addition to
the necessary fullnesS OF the froCk
beneath.
One wonders what the effect of the
gradual passing of the severely
straight silhouette will have upon us
all. Of late years American visitors
in Paris have felt it their duty to pass
by the array of tempting pastry dis
played al all the lunch and tea places
smart and otherwise-with only an
occasional breaking over. Now with
frocks that provide fullness to hide a
few extra pounds we may lift this self
imposed ban.
Moreover. as many stay-at home
Americans do not realize. the truly
French figure is by no means so
straight or 50 generally slender as
that OF the American woman. Full
hips and bust are much more usual
even With the youthful figure and the
Straight-line frock of other days.
which still persists TO a certain eX-
tent, was by no means calculated to
hide this fact. And the goodlooking
young French girl who works In shop
or office walks forth with more erect
posture than do girls of her sort i'm
America it has apparently
never occurred to her that she must
assume an inGenue slouch in order TO
conceal the graceful curves Of her
own young body.
Next to the umbrella silhouette the
fact of fashion that is most often
spoken of here is the return to favor
OF black. 1t may be that the very
colorful clothes that the men of fash
ion are assuming has led the women
to this--in order that they could pro-
vide the note of striking contrast to
their escorts. At any rate, the black
costume, relieved by a bit of white or
color, is decidedly the smartest at the
races and it is the rule still followed
by the ma jority of French women that
the hat should match the costume.
SO far as hats are concerned
there seems TO be no more disposition
TO go back to a period of much trim
ming here than at home. However,
the untrimmed hat is not considered
so Improbable here as at home, for
the reason that almost all well dressed
women have their hats made to order
and therefore require special service
from the milliner as much as If the
hats were highly garnished
shapes at first sight seem to be little
different from those of early Spring.
IT takes the expert eye of the milliner
or the woman who gives her clothes