Putnam patriot., 1926-04-09
Hotel Traumoutana Sorrento

saying that ls frequently quoted l.- only tn Baedeker but by the &eaPoif fa1s themselves. but two fraveier Hha landed from the "Presidente Wilson on December 9th, last, quickly trans posed the phrase Co "Sos Naple and zhiver" This was neither the time nor the place to talk of sunny Italy. or the balm of the Italian climate. True. the sun was there. pale and thin and of the consistency Of maple syrup. and Saples was there with d fog rest ing upon its famous blue bay, turned aH ugly green in color and plotting out from view the tWo peaks of Capri. that really magic isle that lies like q jewel in the hay.s sapphire setting But Naples was cold cold not with the crisp electric cold of an American winter. but With damp. dank chill that penetrated beyond every garment and ta the very marrow of ones bones.
 Landing from the "Presidentc' was not without excitement An Italian motion picture company had chosen tha moment for shooting sceurs and the handsome young leading man of tho film company was one of the first ta board the ship and as the Voyagers of fortnight stepped down the gang plank the cameras ground out the scene and the young hero landed foo. Then followed the customs and a first glimpse of the black shirts Of the Fascist mingling with the gray-gfeen of the carabinieri or customs officials.
 It requires an hour or two after landing at Naples to become orieHted I to the place itself There is the great semi-circle of the Bay and the city rising from the water front Co the high hills behind and always there Is NesuVius to the right, now shraaded in clouds. now stark and clear cut against the sky. with only a tiny cloud of smoke resting lightly above her liv- ing crater.
 From the pier. when the customs nonsense Is over the traveller plunge into the midst of that f8mou= fHaef lifr which is ever pictured of Naples in uHg and story There are fhc mac aHani sh1ps with tho lung pale stf Hgs hanging on racks before the dzafss tHaro ara goats st|ll h-ing driven seum daar a4 daar fe he m@iked aH nrIer5 ezHrvNhere there are suttzarsz #Hla- '#H- u cape and HeaHej Hat. b. ig=
 I win thlE streaming caeh aH#fHaf Fazei=ti fn Hla# hir' and fi-d hut. nil uurier with tbg I5#' #H "f=Nd winch far HIl lf mod
 fHHe atii rafua tfW
 metHlz uf tha eictme aae
 Neapol.tsu Sights
 aHF r5fds h55E VII toll tha travel fH EInlez iu il. off Hat taa iu= tF.#sHe e5tg. and th8t the pa1Hts af interest are h8l thHee ar four. but tHa.e fhrHe af faHH afa memafahly im- naftaHf fbefa Iz of course. fhe Mn scum with its treasures from fompeii and Herealaneum. it= marvellous Far ursc collection 5f Roman and Greek marbles lt. every raam Reritahle treasure house of ancient art and civ iliaatjou There isn't better intro durttan ta the art of the centuries nm mediatrly preceding the birth of Christ than this great museum here at the very portal uf ltaly; and the tourist would do Well to spend lrisdrelf hours in the vast rooms studying these rem H#Ht= of eiFilizatieu which Ht ciusg hand tlll the mndern hruErart iH stone and bronze that h. ha advaHc 2 cd ob se very lttle since the ashee and iaKa af NesHtIu= WeHt deN1 iu their WHtes If destruction
 Then If course. tasre th= A4Har
 uW which yau may asuclai Wfh
 Mlrs Na-trHm fter ittrlrH sef ergncge lf yau Nsr fh. ANHfHm r December tak tha adsE== iHasa wka sH.fesi aHt Har fV=r aat6# clothing that FaH cam r3rr iiar. ; afH ban H.zare ErUH..-
 neth th water Wi Fi0v.H- aitH ar tf 1aIt FfaIHIa
 iIHr s fHH4= aHtaHH H-a Ha#H a fling q throws Ha
 tael, from Ief.s hA= s
 riH7d tra HataE 0tH. H.a#rf H t. tFHIr rI#t NHI fharr HHa taatfe H#d itHrfauraH rh7rh U tElEt th. visitor h#frr mud .iInc -haek ln f4a th tHaf hss -n many tr.asur Hf caIar 4- TltiH life tbat ere ftta,f fre.e feet and purple hands and 'ta l5e.nti1 chmutr Uf Italy fH visit again and aeaiu tht unique and realiy ieudid museum
 Continental winter days have q way of improving with age One aWakas Co a cold mist and fog which eradu- ally lifts until at ten o'clock there is a fair promise of sun which at neon has made good to q really warm and glowing day Out of doors. the cold S not SO had Within it is devastating
 And C. stay without and wander about the streets of Naples is of itself a joy There is the principal business street for instance. the Via Ghiaia. which like Washington Street Bos- ton. is small and narrow and crowded and w8uders about somewhat aimless- ly from the water front t0 the great square af san FraneVsea. II you have been in Naples before the War YOU will look iu vain for many things that havC disappeared uudpr the rule ef Mussolini Gone are thc dirty beg gars who infested every quarter ef the city Gone is che collected dirt of decades from the narrow streets where , the high houses almost touch each oth- CT on their topmost caves. Gone, too. is q certain picturesqueness and lazi- , ness of life which made the foreigner have the impression that Naples was | city always somewhat in the posture of picture postal card
 Echoes of Mussolini
 Tn the first hour ashore the visitor i, who knew Naples in 1914 and who sees tho Naples of 1925. feels the change. the quickeniug of life, the ohlittration of something that is diff fcult Co remember su definition but n