Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1926-07-04

paris. .Tuly 2. 1926.
y AIR was never less important
~ to the miliners than it is at
the present time. Whether
YOU have good hair or poor,
or almost none at all. ii is all
one with them. Ii is thing to be
covered entirely by the hat. 50 that not
a veStige remains to be seen. Wom
ans crownnS glory has all become
superfluous hair, Judging from the
way the milliner pushes each tiny wlsp
of il beneath the crown of the hat she
is adjusting before she is satisfied
with the effect.
The bohhed. or. rather. the shinSled.
head is the mlliner's ideal. perhaps,
though any number of the milliner $
models and assistants still wear
chignon of some sort Whether
woman wears her hair long or short
is none of the millinerS business. and
she knows it. 1t is her business to
provide the customer with a hat that
will completely cover the hair. For
the direct juNtapoSition of the hat
against the skin without the soft m
termediary of hair gives the smart
effect-smart. though frequently try
ing.
But this does not mean that hats
are drawn down any farther over the
eyes than they have been for several
seasons. II they fit correctly, they
usually lust touch the eyebrows. The
trimmed hats give a soft shading to
the face that is eminently desirable.
since we cannot depend on the soften
ing tone of the hair.
= X *
TT IS not more accurate in Paris TO
say that the cloche is dead than il
is in America. though the remark is
frequently made on both sides of the
Atlantic This is still the favorite
"everyday" type of hat for smartly
dressed women of all classes. You
may raise the crown Il little. drape It
this way or that or widen the brlm.
but in reality ii remains cloche. or
bell" in essentials.
The turban appears here and there
AT the smart millinery establishments
and it always carries an air of dis
tirction when worn because il is a
type of hat which must be made to
order II must be draped to the head
AS closely as bandage and the
French mllinerS are too clever to
hope to make il in quantity. Berets
are always especially favored by the
French woman. and the millinerS
never seem to grow weary of de-
vising new hats Of this description.
For the woman with Il large head
or with a large chignon OF hair to
conceal this is the type of hat they
like to make. The fullneSS of the
crown may be draled so as to hide
the head size. Sometimes these lit
that gives shade and softens the eff
feet generally. Once it used to be
thought that the older woman should
wear the toques and turbanS without
hrims, but the milliners here recon-
mend these severely brimiess hats
usually only TO the woman who is
young or who has regular features.
The little hrim they know is very
charitable.
A feather. a flower. a quill or two
silk ponlponS-trmning such as this
Is usually attached to the center of
the right side. dropping or projecting
downward. So the trimming comes
directly over the right shoulder. At
some of the millinery places this is
the only place trimming is ever
found. An American woman who has
visited more hat shops thar museums
since she has been in Paris observes
that most of the trimming she has
seen has been thus placed. But"
she says, there are ALWAYS one. or
TWO large hats with trimming on top
of the brim--beside the crown--but