davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Drastic Changes
in New Chapeaux
Backward Draped Crown
and Embroidered Trim
mings Are Important

The Paris openings, displaying fall
and winter headgear have been In
progress for some time and from
among a tremendous variety Of new
themes one fact stands out sharply
the utility garconne chapeau, for
many seasons the dominant millinery
type, has been relegated to a posi-
ton Of minor Importance. What Is
far more important, however, this
fall II will remain in eclipse, asserts
q Paris fashion correspondent In the
New York HeraId-Tribune
1t Is an old, old story, this neg
lect Of the cloche and its variations
at the openings. Season after sea-
son RebOux, Agnes and Rose Descat
have bravely launched a campaign
intended to shatter the hardy clOche
tradition. At each new millinery
showing in recent years every con-
ceivable type of elaborate hat was ex-
hibited. not only by this eminent Paris
triumvirate but by their minor satel-
lites throughout the various continents
as well. Simplicity was carefully
summed; the alI-Occasion garcOnne
chapeau, mannish to the point Of
severity, was deliberately sighted,
partly In the interests of art and
partly for reasons economic And
then, as each new season rose to its
height. the high crowns and the broad
brims, the feathered models and the
Powered models, would fade from the
landscape while the diSdained cloche
rode high on the crest Of the mode
an inevitable item In every smart
woman's wardrobe The fashiona-
bles had pointed thumbs down on
the valiant efforts of the Paris mo-
distes.
This season the characteristic pro-
logue of elaborate millinery was once
more offered by the Paris modistes.
More than that, deliberate campaigns
were launched, their purposes being
to foster ornate millinery and to re-
place the utility hat with the oc-
casion chapeau. Hat consciousness,
meaning the discriminating selection
Of different hats for different func-
tons, was broadcast throughout the
land In final concerted attempt to
wean mflady from the lure of the
simple all-occasiOn clOche. Yet, despite
these splendidly organized efforts, in
the early months of the present sea-
son 1t appeared as though the Paris
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Chic New Models
for Schoolgirls
Sport Frocks and Wraps,
Specially Designed, Are
Varied in Styles.

A few models have the gored or
flaring skirt. One especially chic
model Is a sports dress designed by
Vionnet for a tall girl of the fashion
able boyish figure. 1t is made of
chartreuse jersey, the skirt gored to
flare perceptibly, the bodice Joined
with stitching Mt low waistline. A
novel detail is the disappointed yoke
shaped inset on the bodice, beginning
under the arm and extending almost
to the waist in front. A small, close.
turnover collar with soft cravat tie
and pockets and cuffs are worn with
this frock, and hat of the vagabond
shape has an unusually high crown,
ripping brim and band of grosgrain
ribbon, all In the same shade Of char
treuse.
Several of the most prominent Paris
couturiers, says fashion correspond
ent in the New York Times, are de-
signing with much success clothes for
misses and young girls. Paquin has
done some uncOmmOnly nice things in
coats, using the soft woolenS In
shades Of brown and green and max
ing much of side flares and plaitings.
A lovely coat done for a ten-year-old
girl is in sage green velours de laine
with bands stitched on the front from
the shoulder to the bottom Of the gar
ment, each overlapping a strip Of mar
row tucking. Madelaine des Gayus,
Callot Soeurs, Molyneux, Lanvin and
Cheruit are among the French design
ers who, with others prominent in
America, are establishing new and at
tractive styles for girls and young
women, using a wide variety Of mate
rails and colors.
But It is the girl Of the awkward
age" whose clothes present the real
problem, and they must be selected
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Black and Pink Liked
as Color Combination

Few frocks give more general salts
faction than those made Of black satin.
AS rule they are simple enough for
almost any occasion and at the same
time are smart enough for the most
important daytime social event.
1t Is quite noticeable that with few
exceptions the new black frocks show
touches Of color. Occasionally the
color is vivid, as In two extremely
smart models which feature tones Of
lacquer red and green. AS a general
thing, however, the color introduced
is more apt to be a delicate shade.
Pastel tones frequently are combined
with black and a pale tone Of beige
is often used successfully.
One of the smartest color combina.
tons Is seen In dress OF black crepe
back satin combined with pale pink
crepe de chine.
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Shawls That Hav. Only
Three Sides Frinped

Metallic brocaded shawls having but
three sides fringed are now being
shown as fall items. In either gold or
silver. two or more brilliant colors are
combined. Instead of the colors be-
Ing worked In the weave Of the fabric
they are used In solid form as foliage
or geometric figures. The fringe Is
made up of the same colorings, with
metallic strands predomlnating. With
these shawls are shown narrow scarfs !:
they are long, plainly finished throw
varieties. without fringe or decoration
Of any Kind, and are worn knotted
simply at the side of the neck.
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
New Two-Piece Models
Are More Interesting

Smart, youthful and almost univer.
sally becoming. the two-piece frock
shows no sign Of being cast out SO FAR
as fashion is concerned. 1t seems in
credible that any new variation Of
this long popular mode could be in
troduced, but early collections Of fall
models prove that fashion designers
have lost none Of their skill or invent.
iveness.
In almost every group Of models one
finds several developed on two-piece
lines. These are distinguished BY
subtle changes Of silhouette an. by
details Of decoration that give them
a different and more interesting A.
pect.
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Earrings Conspicuous
Part of Self-Decoration

Earrings are conspicuous part OF
the Partisan woman's scheme Of self
decoration. The long pendants which
disappeared for time are back In
more exaggerated form than ever.
Long drops Of chased crystal. jade or
coral, nearly touching the shoulders,
are seen at the race courses where
Paris smartest women congregate.
Jet earrings the size Of bracelets
were worn recently at Auteuil. Their
size and weight made suspension In
the ears impossible The ornaments
were fixed at the edge of a close fitting
turban Of black silk. the effect being
almost Identical with that Of rings In
the ears.
The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Sheepskin Coats Late Vogue

Even a black sheep is not all black
when his skin Is turned into suede
coat. The newest examples Of such
garments arrived from England have
as many colors as Joseph's coat. They
are notified in both bright and sub
dued effects. not the least Of their at
Effectiveness lies In the fact that these
colors are guaranteed not to run.
These coats are knee length. lined
with satin and are wind and weather
proof
The broad ax., 1926-10-23

flat, Jacket, Purse and Parasol All
Developed in Marion Velvet. p
Hat Of Rose-coIored Velvet With
Flat Ostrich Tips in TWO Tones Of
Rose. 3-High Draped Hat With
Tiny Poke Brim, in Black Velvet.
haute monde were once more going
to cold-shoulder elaborate millinery In
to the limbo of the demodee.
The Couture Decides.
UnconsciouSly the haute couture
the dress and coat creators of Paris
stepped into the breach and saved the
day for ornate chapeaux, revealing, in
cidentally, one of the secrets Of chang
ing styles. In the present autumn
openings elaboration has been the
keynote Of almost every showing.
Severity, mannishness and all the rest
Of the garconne attributes have been
scrupulOusly avoided in a collection of
fall frocks, suits and coats which
bark back to the gallant eleganterie
Of the mauve decade. In the face of
this movement. strongly seconded by
fashionable society from Deauville to
the Lido. in Paris, in London and
In New York, even so deeply rooted
a custom as the cloche must be COM
PEELED to retreat. II Is no mirage
this time. and with the crisp days
Of autumn the mesdameS Of the mode.
venturing blithely forth in fanciful
frocks and elaborate coats, wear hats
that synchronize with this sartorial
elegance, whose charm Is in a def
manipulation and intricate styling
rather than in unalloyed boyish SIM
plicity. Where in earlier seasons the
anticloche crusade failed because the
cOuturiers were not in sympathy, this
autumn all the forces Of fashion are
marching in regal unison toward the
new elegance. with millinery leading
the way.
Chosen from the fall showings of
such notable modlstes as Caroline Re-
The broad ax., 1926-10-23

+Fawn-coIored Felt, of GrosgraIn
Ribbon. Siam With Earmuff
Effect, Velvet. 6-Tam, Two Tones
of Lilac Velvet Rolled Into Tiny
Strips and Joined Together in Cir
cuIar Fashion.
not too far apart. Hatters' plush Is
particularly favored by Maria Guy,
while soleil is featured by several
other modistes.
Reboux is making a particular fetish
of the high, square crown, while
Agnes, with backward draped crown,
has achieved an effect which is de-
cidedly more youthful Save among
certain types, this high Reboux crown
cannot be easily worn. 1t does not
lack In youth, but ii is a little too
regal, coming after a long success
sion of boyish hats. When the sea-
son is well advanced indications point
to a predOminance of rounded and
draped crowns.
Brims are more diverse and CON-
plicated than last season, and there
Is a decided increase in the number
of wider brimmed hats being shown.
The maturing season will not witness
any sweeping return to picture types,
but 1t will account for more medium
brimmed- models than in any autumn
since the war
Black and the Wine Range.
Black once more stands first among
cOlOrS, but it is by no means pre-
scribed. The wine shades are next In
frequency, after which come blue and
the beige range 1t will not be a par
ticularly colOrful hat season as far
as the hues themselves are concerned,
but 1t will be made striking by the
use of unusual Ornamentations on
sober backgrounds.
For one thing. embroidery is pro-
fusely employed on the autumn hats.
Paradise plumeS, too, are featured,
though not so lavishly. Aigrettes and
striking ornaments are also used to
embellish the new models. Such novel
FASTING velvet on the facing Of felt
hats, are more the rule than the ex-
ceptiOn. Even featherS-now that the
Reboux feather boa is enjoying such
a vOgue-are used to trim hats, and
they emphasize the ensemble note ;
that is, the boa should be of the same
color ostrich as the chapeau trimming.
In summation, elaborate hats have
finally been launched successfully,
and you need no longer fear that
one of these luxuriously trimmed at
fairs will single you out as behind
the mode, or, what is just as bad,
awkwardly in advance of it. You
may choose freely from among a most
diversified assortment, and when you
select, have in mind the frock or coat
with which this particular hat is to
be worn. A formal frock requires a
formal hat this season-fOr sports
there are the garconne models. But
it is certain the twain should never be
mixed.
The varying shades Of tan are still
the most seen in gloves, since tan
is a sufficiently neutral shade to blend
with any costume. AS in the case Of
handbags, however, gray gloves are
selected for the gray costume, and
occasionally one sees very striking
and attractive match between dress
and gloves of some more vivid color.
White Is, Of course, worn with the
very light ensemble, and 1t is assured
that fall will bring a return of popu-
larity for both the white and the black
glove.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
Rips, Old Original Rug

Cleaning special sxie rugs; shappoo
Ss.5O: busting 81: moving and storing.
separate stalls for household goods. sf.b1
up; all work guaranteed. public Invited
to visit my works and warehouse. Rips
Rug Workers. Mis-. S. Mis-. 658. SIS 5.
Cherry.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
BUSINESS SERVICES
Laundering

DRY by sunshine. Is pounds. Use; hiring
your laundry 10 first-class laundry. 52s
W. Mitchell TT. s69-J.
SUNSHINE. Americas Beautiful Lsvn-
dry-Have your blankets and quilts
iudered this month. Gil " FLORES.
CT aG7e
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
Help Wanted-Mase

PANTS (uncalled for) ID OFF. tailor made
match your coat; pants made 20 order
Pants Tailor. 426 Moore Bldg.. attn floor
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
Mattress RenovatinR

WE renovate and recover mattrsFses
make them the same "a new.
STANDARD MATTRESS co.
100 Lakevew. CT. 1855
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15

eds-PIants-Flower 90
LIGUSTRUMS
Best evergreen, shrubbery, quickest
shade, best selection. Texas prices &c
to So. Collins Garden Home. Or. $685..
KEILMAN NURSERY - Pecan. fruit,
shade trees. eyergreens. roses, pansies,
carnations. pot plants and strawberries.
202 Hart Ave. Tr. 1924.
NOW open for business with the most
complete stock to be had. We have what
you want. Evergreen Nursery, corner
Lexington and Augusta.
MCGEE TOMATO-Most prolific on earth.
| only have the pure pedigreed seed. NJ.
c. MCGEE. Originator san Marcos. Texas.
-..------.. GRAPE PLANTS -
Carman and Black Spanish, large and
well-rooted, small quantities. IL cents
each; 100 and up. cents each d. d.
Heinen. 427 Adams st. Mis-. 172, San
Antonio.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
NIusic.Dsncing- Dramatic 15a

EXPERIENCED piano teacher. student
OF Eastern conservatorles wishes pupils;
will go to homes II necessary. studio
log Taylor street. TT. 7e21-W.
BALLROOM dancing. private or classic
instructions in acrobatic classic, inter
pretive and stage routine. Miss Talbot
Tr. 500.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
Statesmen Wanted
1851

EXPERIENCED salesman wanted Win
car. Apply Judge Body Co.. SIC Burn
EFT, TT. 1855.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
EMPLOYMENT

COLORED woman wants half days
house work. Mission 1TS2.
QUICK. accurate stenographer. copying,
etc. My office or yours. Miss Madden.
IT. 1897.
FIRST-CLASS cook wishes position TO
do work by day. SIS Carson.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15

Notwithstanding pays well. Lean rs
now and double your salary Fes weeke
qualities Earn while learning Pre-
catalogue explains Gail or write. l'crf
Barber College. 727 W. Commsrce street
city.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
MISCELLANEOUS
Wood & Coal

WOOD SALE
Heavy fireplace. SS.25 per cord.
Mixed heater chunks. IS per cord.
Mixed stove wood. IS per cord.
Mesquite stove wood, SO per cord.
Full cords guaranteed. CT. 4464.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
RENTALS
Houses UNFINISHED

FOR RENT-seven-room two-story resi-
dence, near Breckenridge High. SAG Mis-
sion street. Mission 39l7-J.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
MISCELLANEOUS
Wanted Miscellaneous

SECONDHAND CLOTHES
We pay the highest prices for clothes.
shoes hats. bags. N. Penner. Or. 345i.
702 W Commerce.
WE BUY and sell everything of value.
Kessier, 500 +. Commerce. TT. 1885.
WE buy mems clothing and shoes, high
prices paid. Cr 1908. lie s. Flores.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1926-01-15
Upholstering
1871

PETER MAREcHAEL. cabinet maker
upholsterIng. refinishing and polishing
old furniture made new. Or. Sii9.
, 1926-01-09

ton Of the law, they will doubtless
be convicted. it can be done.
plead e~ntTarnenl.
state and Federal fires ard forfeit,
ures offset The cost Of enforcement. In
Ohio the cost of State enforcement is
$1O5, eco a year. Tie fines collected to-
tailed So 200, GOO last year.
1t is the cog that's hit that bowls."'
, 1926-01-09
Court as a preliminary step to entrance
into the Lpaone.

COURT as a preliminary St6p " entrance
into the League.
ILLUSIONARY BELIEF.
There is no fundamental advance Of
this traditional policy or of the prevention
Of war ia joining the court Any such
belief is wholly illusiOnary.
A republic is destroyed from within
and not from without. No more mortal
blow can be delivered against it than
by those within who would kill its spirit
of nationality; for that is the very soul
Of patriotism~ There should be no COM
promise between uationaIism and inter-
nationaIism."
Louis A. Coolidge Of Milton. Mass.
distant relative to President Coolidge,
wrote to a Senator opposed to the court:
Il agree with you absolutely in your
position on the court"
A cablegram from Paris came to the
same Senator today from William II.
PauIingemrich, American International
lawyer. He sent this word: "Ameri-
can patriots throughout the world are
looking to you to preserve the freedom
Of the American nation nthe int gritty of
It's founders and to successfully combat
the pernicious Influences OF American
hireIings Of foreign powers e~ndangering
the peace and security of our country
Boston American.
, 1926-01-09
w. B. WHEELER REPLIES TO GALL
VAN.

Washington, Dec. 21.-"Mr. CALI
vans anxiety about the cost of prohibit
ton enforcement is more in the interest
of the bootlegger than the taxpayer.
Even gallivanting Gafivan cannot galva-
nize the dead body Of John Barleycorn
back to life il this nation"
Such was the retort of Wayne B.
Wheeler, general counsel of the Anti
Saloon League to the speech by Repre-
sentative James A. Gallivan of Boston
in the House against enforcement AID
agents who pose as fake sports" to trap
unwary ~bootleggers.
Gallivan's outburst of wit was directed
chiefly against the expense account of
a luxury loving dry agent who was at
tempting to obtai1 evidence against
employees of a fashionable hotel in
Washington. He paid some attention,
however. to Mr.. Wheeler, whom he ac-
cused of having threatened to defeat
him for reelection.
In reply Mr.. Wheeler said:
Congressman Gallivan forgot to tell
the House that the defendants in the
hotel case admitted violations of the
prohibition law. The evidence was clear
on thi point, but they were charged
with conspiracy and the jury acquitted
on this charge.
If the United States district attor-
ney will try them before a fair jury on
the charge of sale and furnishing liquor
or use the bootleg injunction Sec
, 1926-01-09
OLD BAS RELIEF OF CHRIST'S TOR.
1URE Is FOUND

Paris, Dec. 21-A valuable medieval
alabas@er has relief showing the faQella-
ton Of Christ has been found sealed up
in a chimney Of a peasant hut ar Neuf-
chetel. The house WAS condemned be.
cause it was crumbiing through age and
was dangerous.
When the building was torn down the
laborers discovered the sculpture which
had been hidden there for at least three
centuries. 1t will be sent to the Nation
al Museum. ibid.
, 1926-01-09

effects OF Prohibition IN Soviet Even
Worse Than in America, Their Belief.
Moscow, Dec. %. The history of the
struggle against liquor in America, al
though it is a cultured country, shows
that mechanical measures there have
failed, too, said A. N. Semashko, PEG.
pies Commissar for Public Health CT the
Russian Republic, in an interview with
the international News Service in which
be outlined what the government hopes
to accomplish by other than |prohibitory
measures against vodka.
Il receive many bulletins from Ameri-
can organizations concerned with the
liquor problem, p" said the COmmissar,
'and the latest information at hand in
dicates that many crimes are still being
committed in New York as the result
of drink.
But in Russia the effects of prohibi.
ton were even worse, because it result
ed in the production of samogan, or ILL
city distilled vodka.
'Of course it is difficult to obtain ac-
curate statistics Of samogan production,
but we do know four things: First,
that the peasants used last year almost
5000, 000 tons of the best grain to make
samogan; second that this Illicit produc-
ton has been an incentive to crime;
third. that it contains poisonous ethereal
oils which make it many times more
dangerous and harmful than the liquor
it displaced, and fourth. that no admin
istrative measures we could bring a
gainst it were effective.
, 1926-01-09
PROPOSALS TO LEASE POST
OFFICE QUARTERS WANTED
POST OFFICE DEPARTMENT

OIlc6 OF inspector
. San Juan, P. r. December 10, 1925.
The undersigned will receive sealed
proposals up to and including February
Is. 1926, for furnish g suitable quar-
tiers for post office purposes at Christian
sted, Virgin Islands, at a stated price
per annum, including light, water, toilet
facilities, safe or vault, and all necessa-
ry furniture and equipment, under a
lease for five or ten years from Novem-
Der /, 1926.
Floor space of about 1900 or more
square feet is desired
Good daylight and a reasonably central
location are important considerations.
Specifications and blank proposals may
be obtained from the postmaster, and a
sample form Of lease may be examined
in his office.
Diagrams of the rooms offered should
be submitted, on paper of this size
(8x103) showing inside dimensions, off
sets, doors, windows, etc.
The Fost Office Department reserves
the right to reject any or all proposals.
C. D. LOWE
Post Office Inspector
San Juan, Porto Rico.
, 1926-01-09

1T is natural that we should seek 9th
err means. There was, of course, some
difference of opinion among US as to the
means."-N Y. SIN.
, 1926-01-09
Wit and F1urnor.

MIS-. Murphy (vbo has opened a saw
ings bank account)-"An' how long does
vi take to draw money!" .
Postmaster We'll, if We give three
days notice before hand, We can take ut
out the same day We put utin!'
O'Higgin lin the trench Its the
tonne Of day up there Dim wantin' to
know down here"
McGannus-"Same tonne it is up here
as it is down there, you fool
Doctor Cat sick bed of HooIiqan)--"The
room seems cold, Mrs. Hoohgan. Have
you kept the thermometer at seventy as
told your"
Mrs. HooIigan-"Shure, an Oh how,
docthor. There's the deviIish thing in a
toombler av warrum wather at this bis
sid minute"
Mistress. Poor darling little Topsyl
I'm afraid she will never recover. Do you
know, Bridget, | think the kindest thing
would be to have her shot, and put out
Of her misery.
Btidget.--Deed, nam, | wouldn't do
that. Sure, she might get better after
all. and then ye'd be sorry ye'd had her
killed"
, 1926-01-09
Russians Dry Law Fail.

effects Of Prohibition in Soviet Even
Worse Than in America, Their Belief.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1926-02-28
SENATE ASKS REPORT
ON USE OF PATENT
Seeks Data on Annual Value of
Squier Wired Wireless Inven-
lions to A. T. & T. Co.

The Senate passed recently an in
teresting resolution directing the Sec
rotary of Commerce to investigate the
use of the Squier wired-wireless pat
ents by the American Telephone and
Telegraph Co. and make a report on
the annual value of these patents to
the company and the reduction in
public rates. If any. due to the free
use of the wired-wireless patents.
Senate resolution 149, introduced by
Senator Walsh. reviews the history Of
wired-wireless investigation begun in
1910 by Maj. Gen. George o. Squire,
y. S. A., retired, then a major in
the Signal Corps, under an appropri-
alton of 100000 made by Congress.
His subsequent Investigations showed
that multiplex telegraphy and tele-
phony over wires could be accomplish
ed by the application of radio to wires
in the method commonly known as
wired wireless" Patents Nos. 9o0356-
1873, taken out by Maj. Squier in
1911. provided for their use by the
Government of the United States and
it's citizens without the payment of
royalties.
These patents are now used by the
Bell Telephone system free, it was
stated, a court having held that as
the patents were public property the
inventor was not entitled to any COM
pensation therefor.
Now the Secretary of Commerce is
directed to make a full report to the
Senate to the extent to which the
system is used by the American Tele-
phone and Telegraph Co. in govern
mental and public service, the annual
value of such use and the reductions
made in rates, If any.