Seward daily gateway., 1926-01-02

Russians glass beads took the placi of them. At the beginning of ths Eighteenth Century the lip and ca, ornaments of the wealthy Kaniaz women and young dandys freouentaz weighed several pounds.
 The dentalium was an ornamen much prized by men and women This shell did not exist in the Rus sian provinces but was imported from the British colonies north of the Go lumbia river, and thence passed iron hand to hand along the whole coas as far as the Aleutian Islands. Ths price of one pair of these little sheal. was whole parka Of squirrel skins
 There is also a tradition of ths KaniagmuIe to the effect that il the country Of the Tthinket, far k < the southward, there was lake from which the denlalium or hyuua shel was obtained, the mo1lucks being fec with the bodies of slaves thrown intr the eater-a story evidently invent. ed by the Thinkets to enhance Ihs price Of this commodity, Of which they had a monopoly.
 The most precious ornaments con. sisted Of pieces of amber that were washed up occasionally by the ses on the south end Of Kodiak Island but chiefly Oh the Island Of Ooka- mak At certain times, after aI earthquake as a rule, the ocean seem ed to be more lavish in bestow ing this treasure, and then the ambe, formed quite an article Of trade be. ttween the peoples of Kadiak and 1ht people of Bristol Bay and Nusha- gak, but as these ha1vests only oc- cured at long intervals the value oi the article always remained at g high standard
 The lower lip Of the woman was always pierced twice, but frequently five or six times, the men having only one such orifice. Some dandy in ancient times originated the idea Of making a long horizontal slit i1 the upper lip parallel with the mouth b11t this mode had few Followers ow- ing to the inconvenience of having their food come out of the artificial apetEre.
 Women and Men Tattooed.
 At present it is doubtful if the old- est woman on Kadiak would show traces Of tattooing on her chin, tho formerly this custom was universal The mode of procedure was to smear a thin thread Of whale sinew with mixture of spot and oil, and then draw the thread into the skin by means of a needle, thus forming certain primitive patterns. In an- cient times the breasts of women were also tat1ooed, and frequnIly two parallel lines were drawn from ear to chin; and if married womau wished to give her husband proof of great love she ta1tooed herself on various parts of the body and on the hands.
 Men and Women Dressed Alike
 In former times the clothing ot the men and women was alike, and consisted of the kamleika and the parkee. Both of these names were introduced from Kamchatka, the ma. tive word for kamleika being 'kan. akhliuku" and for the parkee lat kuku" The parkee was long shir- or garment with small opening a, the neck just large enough to allow the head of pass through, and witf two short sleeves intended more, fol ornament than for use, as under eact sleeve there was a verticle slit thrI which the a.zals were thrust wher needed, but commonly these members were kept concealed under the gar. mnt. The parkee was made of ths skins of birds and animals. Of ths former the cormorant, the duck ana the sea parrot furnished the material and of the latter those of the grouni squirrel, the sea otter, the marnoa the bear, and the reindeer were used The most valuable of bird skin par kees were those made altogether o the necks of the cormorant wor1 only by the young women, and a sing, garment required the necks of I5l to 200 birds. The feathers from these birds were worn on the out side and were ornamented with lon, hair of the reindeer, the skin of CT mine, sea otter and sometimes wit eagle feathers.
 The kamleika is the most impor, ant particle of clothing worn by th kaniaks, as it protects them agains rain and moisture, and it would hay