The broad ax., 1926-10-23
Paris Sets Pace
I'm Fall Fashions
Changes Are in Detail and
Coloring-What Will
Be Accepted?


ric. but open endless speculation as to
what will be accepted, observes a
Paris fashion writer In the Kansas
City Star. VIII the greater sophisti-
cation in dress prevail over the sim
plicity that has reigned so long? VIII
the elaborate sleeve so difficult for the
manufacturer to manipulate prove q
best seller in America? Is the higher
waistline anything more than tend
ency? How great is the glory Of color
in dress, or the profit?
Worth exhibited more than four
hundred models to an audience that
has reviewed the fashions of the past
decade.
The silhouette In the Worth collec-
ton remains unchallenged, being slim,
short and straight, with the waistline
placed moderately low.
There are occasional fiat bloused
effects, and also some long inconspic-
uous bolero treatments.
A noticeable tendency, especially In
coats, is to slit the center back, max
Ing the sides hang straight loosely
over a foundation.
Scanning treatments are frequently
used, in many cases replacing the
waistline in both coats and dresses,
giving diagonal effects, but leaving the
lines Of the silhouette unbroken.
A great number Of neat morning
dresses are shown, frequently in two
piece models with no fullness.
These dresses are often accompa-
MED by slim, beltless coat, either Of
fabric or Of fiat furs, such as shaved
lamb. The fabrics used are chiefly
velveteens, kashas and light novelty
woolens. Some combinations Of leath-
er with fabric are seen.
The velveteen dresses trimmed only
with self-seaming are very effective.
Afternoon dresses for the most part
are Of dull crepe. chiffon and velvet.
The coats worn with them are slightly
fuller and bloused or straightline in
effect. Velvet, fine silky wool and
rayon velours are the fabrics most fire.
quently used for the coats.
These afternoon coats are richly
trimmed with fur, especially with fox
scarfs.
A large collection Of evening gowns
is shown, including stately models Of
draped brocades, always designed on
slim lines.
Chiffon velvets are noteworthy in
the evening gown fabrics, and also col
ored silk laces and chiffons.
Chanel, in her opening promenade
of fall fashions. presents a collection
of youthful types which, in their one
color themes and higher waistIine
treatments, are characteristic Of the
Chanel genre.
The bolero, which was introduced
last spring in some of her most sue
cessful models, again is exploited fire.
quently throughout the fall collection.
In the sports group, both one and
twO-piece versions are sponsored in
which the skirts usually are plated,
sometimes In small all-around plaits,
and again featuring wide plaits posed
at front only.
Jersey and crepella stand out con-
SpicuOusly among sports fabrics, and
In the novelty weave, shaded wooiens
and for the afternoon types, georgette,
crepe de chine and velvets share hon.
ors, while in the latter fabric small
printed checks are introduced.
Several models in aubergine, or
eggplant purple, add interest to this
shade, especially as it has been shown
at several other openings
Royal blue is another color that is
in evidence, and like the purple just
mentioned, is seen in daytime models
Of house which made chanel red" a
household word.