Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1926-07-04

to have their hats made to order.
TO be sure you can pick up little
shape In one of the magaZinS ana
with nimble fingers attach bow of
ribbon or brilliant ornament-but
the effect ia not distinguished. The
hat must fit eXactly-as no ready
made hat can possibly fit. for the
hat must not only be of the right
crown size but must be Of just the
right shape as well. That Is not
enough-the shape and draping must
also suit the face-therefore the ex'
pert modiste will not finish hat un-
less she can drape it on the head,
and as she works she looks at the
face of the woman sitting before her.
Before she Is quite content with the
final drapery or shaping, madame
must stand and walk and the modiste
stands off and makes sure that the
proportions are quite right.
X
THE difference between the leady
towear hat and the made-to-
order one does not exist only in the
words Of the persuasive milliner.
You are struck with 1t everywhere
that Won see well dressed women
with their hats on. The woman
whose nat seems supremacy TlSIt
and therefore smart IS always the
woman whose hat has been made
upon her by a cunning milliner. Per-
haps this artist has been the little
modiste who comes TO your small
hotel after her long hours in the
WOrkrOOm are over, earning few
francs for herself to save toward her
dowery or to help with a brothers
education. But shells an artist none
the less. or the hat would not look
so smart.
You go to one of the we'll known
milliners in the fashionable section
and aSrange to have hat made.
The assistant appears to yield to
your whims. but all the time you know
that she is not going to let you have
a hat that will not look smart. for
that would he a discredit to the house
for which she works
Beige is smart, but so seldom be
coming" she says. sparing YOU the
frank observation that you are much
too sallow for such a tone. Or she
may advise against one of the brighter
rose shades. 1T is always smart to
wear a hat to match the costume
Still. the hat must be to madame's
taste" Measurements are taken and
the color is chosen. Some sort of a
draped taffeta beret with a small brim
is agreed upon. But the shape-ah
that will depend on the fitting.
When YOU arrive next the hat has
been put together. There has been no
preliminary fitting of the shape. for
the WOrkWomen are accurate Crea-
lures. Through a small door in the
painted paneling the hat is brought
out-an enoAlous ball Of taffeta The
brim is settled upon your head. though
as yet the exact point of the center is
not agreed upon. The fullness of the
balloon is draped first this way, then
that, as you sit before the mirror.
The woman in charge of the sales
room-who may he a Russian noble.
woman in eXile--Consults with your
salesgirl and then comes a capable
woman from the workroom. who oh
viously carries much authority. "Of
course. ii must be to madame'S taste"
you are told again. but you know that
your taste has precious little weight
the shape of your nose and the lines
of your cheeks are of far more import.
FINALLY. the last movement" is
agreed upon and the hat is very
deity taken from your head. If you
like, you may call again but it is not
necessary. The hat will be finished
and the lining set in and the hat sent
to your hotel. And when it comes
there is a little white stitch some
where within the hat to show YOU the
exact center front of the hat
Never touch the top of dra ped
hat" YOU have been advised Put
it on entirely by the brm. And in
busting any silk or ribbon hat never