Arizona state miner., 1926-02-27

cepted styles of spring and summer.
You will know, too, that the protO-
types Of the tea hour dresses worn
now at the Hotel de Paris will SHIN
mer bravely and Smartly next summer
at NarraganSett and Southampton,
and that the tennis frocks seen at La
Festa this winter will madly scamper
on the courts of Germantown and
Forest Hills next August-at least In
counterpart.
The critics delight is the punctur-
ing of popular beliefs, and we are
little unhappy that we cannot an
nounce the fallacy of these Riviera
fashion theories. A thorough research,
with comparisons for many years back,
was convincing evidence that the
styles of spring and summer are in
variably predicated upon the mode at
the Cote d'Azur, and that the sim
Narity between the two is an un-
paralleled fashion relationship. In no
other phase does the mode come so
near to being an exact science
The most significant message of
these early Riviera styles is that the
new silhouette cycle has reached it's
second stage, at least as far as frockS
are concerned. The hemline flare is
being gradually curtailed in favor Of
what Delong has called kinetic full
ness, accomplished most often by
pIaits The sudden distension which
was the first manifestation Of the
slimline revolt is slowly going the
way of all fashions.
The Tempered Flare.
Among it's earliest and most ardent
sponsors we sorrow at the rapid pass
fng of this hemIine flare, which has
been such a splendid influence on the
mode, yet its tremendous popularity
this winter augured no other fate. A
meek fashion like the cloche may pur-
sue it's even tenor for many seasons
of its vOgue-a bright or striking style
has a career which is glorious but
ever so brief-it can pass from singu-
larity to popularity and thence to OBJ
liviOn in a single season. And al
though it is a little early to consign
the hemline fare to the limbo of his
tory, this much is certain: the kinetic
silhouette cut on gradual flared lines
will replace it in smart circles next
spring-has already replaced it on
the Riviera this winter.
Just what is this kinetic silhouette?
Many women are under the impression
that it is an outline peculiar to Lucien
Delong, arrived at in some mysterious
way. The name was the felicitOus in
spiration of Delong, but the actual
silhouette is now, and has been for
some time, the possession of the en-,
tire French couture. The new out
line, in it's simplest form, is merely
plated fullness. Instead of sudden
width at the lowest point, there is
general width throughout-the impress
sion Of a straight, full silhouette is
given when <he wearer is i'll repOse-
the kinetic or rhythmic ripping of the
skirt takes place directly she walks.
And the approved and most modish
method Of accomplishing this new sill
hOuette is by plaits of various types
and varying degrees.
Kasha to the Fore.
In the matter of fabrics. There is
flannel and there Is crepe de chine,
there is taffeta and there Is lace.
And then there is kasha. No ma
teriai in the last decade has had any
thing like the merited popularity of
this splendid Rodier conception, and 1t
has earned place in the mode which
cannot be challenged. For coats, for
jumpers, for afternoon frOcks, kasha
la evsr In front-and If there Is moth