Evening star., 1925-05-04
PARTY WILL CLIMB
TO TOP Of CANADA
Five Americans in Group to
Make Mount Logan Ascent,
1880 Feet.
Special Dispatch to The star.

Special Dispatch to The Star.
NEW YORK, May "A party of IL
men. including two New Workers. left
Seattle yesterday for Alaska on one
of the most ambitious undertakings in
the history of American mountaineer-
ing-the first ascent of Mount Logan,
49, $50 feet, highest mountain in Can
ada, and second only to Mount Me
Kinley on the North American conti-
nent.
Mount Logan is in the southwest
corner of Yukon territory. about 20
miles east of the Alaskan boundary.
The loftieSt peak of the Mount st.
Elias range it lies about 20 miles in
ward from Yakutat Say, but is cut
off from water by many other high
peaks, including Mount st. Elias it
self. 1904 feet high. and by vast
glaciers.
Until Capt Albert H. MacCarthy,
Alpine Club. of Summit, n j., made
special accommodating trip of two
months last summer, little was known
about the approaches to the mountain.
The route selected Is by rail from
Cordova. Alaska. to Mccarthy, near
kennecott, terminus of the Copper
River Railway. thence $50 miles up
the Chitina River and a series of
glaciers to the mountain.
VI iIlolt AI4'iil NNp iilpl4bii1 N'hi'-
MacCarthy. the advance guard of the
party, has been supervising the lay
ing out of camps, and the tranSpor-
tation of provisions for the bulk of
the party now leaving Seattle.
The expedition is under auspices of
the Alpine Club of Canada, but 1t in
cludes five American climbers. Be
sides Capt. MacCarthy, they are Allen
Carpe and Norman II. Read, Brook
y u Il
Henry S. Hall. jr.. and Robert NJ.
Morgan, both of Cambridge, Mass.
Over Snow and Ice.
How difficult the ascent of Mount
Logan will prove and whether it can
be accomplished, remains to be seen.
1t extends east and west, and the ap-
proach to the saddle between the two
domes, either of which may be the
true top. involves a long and perhaps
dangerous traverse over snow and ice
at a high altitude. The summit is
more than II 00O feet above the high
est available base site.
The high-altitude problems of the
HimalayaS, such as those encountered
by the EngxSh expeditions to Mount
Everest, %, ,U02 feet will not be met on
Mount Logan. The trek TO the base
of Canadian monarch Will be long
anu SIuellliE- upNtNtl s~li't IAlS t'Si'itAA
ascent might be compared. roughly,
to that of Mount st. Elias, 1904 feet,
by the Duke d A5ruZzis $ party in 1891,
and that of the north peak of Mount
Mckinley, 20 800 feet, in June, 1917,
by DR.. Hodson Stock.
If Mount Logan is conquered this
year, it will be a greater feat than
either of the others mentioned, in
that the party is composed entirely
y,1f, ,1A,- INr oil h
ed with the guide. II. B. karsten, and
the Duke dAbruZzis party was we'll
supplied with professional guides from
the Alps.
Will Use Pack Train.
The main party will reach Nc
Carthy, the point of departure from
the railroad. in about 10 days. From
there it will proceed by pack train
SO miles up the Chitina River to the
foot of the Chitine glacier, 5000 feet
Thence all the provisions. except those
already deposited with the aid of dogs,
will be carried by men on their backs.
The horses will hurry down before
the Spring floods arise.
Fifty miles across the Chitina,
Walsh and Logan glaciers will bring
the party to its advance base camp
at an altitude Of $3.50 feet. Almost
q week will be required for this stage
of the journey.
The real climbing difficulties begin
at the base camp, on the last out
cropping of rock. For the next 1000
feet the glacier is steep and badly
crevassed. but Capt. MacCarthy was
able last Summer to find route fairly
free of bad CreVaSSeS. although eX-
posed in stretches to snow avalanChes.
The nature of the climb between the
$500 and the IA 900 foot levels is
unknown. The heavy fOgS Y Which have
hung about the Mount st. Elias group
since the sudden cooling of the warm
winds from the Japan current pre-
vented Capt. MacCarthy from obtain
ing a clear view of this portion OF
the route last Summer.
Above $4,000 feet stretch miles of
steep ice and snow slopes up King
Col. to the upper plateau and on to
the two SUBMITS.
Provisions for two months have been
obtained and the bulk of them have
already been cached along the route.
for the most part at the base camp.
under the direction of Capt Mac
Carthy. The final dash for the sum
NIT will probably be attempted late
in June. Six experienced climbers are
in the party.