Evening star., 1925-10-11

lND1NG women 50 content with
l. the line and style of clothes
they already had accepted tho
Il only thing that dressmakers
could do for this Autumn and
Winter was TO offer these tried
and approved styles in new ma
terials. richer, more splendid ma
terials, with more elaborate, more in.
tricate trimming. So the saying has
gone around that while there has been
little radical change 40 far as the
styles are concerned there has been
big change so far as the materials go.
30 there is as much to say about
the new clothes as ever, and as much
excuse for discarding last years frocks
and wraps even though the line re-
mains little changed from that Of last
year.
These new gowns that the dress
makers have to offer and that fashion.
able women have been wearing for the
past few weeks are really too lovely,
too resplendent, too beautiful. So
elaborate and clever is the workman
ship on many of the new gowns and
wraps that you must look with close
scrutiny to know how the effect Is
sained-whether it is made by bits of
metallic leather, or by metal thread
embroidery, by encrustations Of beads,
by sppliques Of metal cloth, or how
soeVer
The masterpieces Of the French de
signers this Autumn have shown not
the slightest disposition to economy.
The most gorgeous fabrics are used
and hours and hours OF patient needle
work are added to these fabrics to give
further enrichment. An evening gown
of gorgeous gold brocade may be en-
beiliShed by an intricate design
wrought with silver and coral beads.
1t Is almost painful to contemplate
the infinite patience with which each
OF these tiny silver beads and bits of
eoral was sewed into place on that
eready gorgeous silver cloth. Tiny
bits of leather, each turned to a lovely
metallic sheen, are sewn into position
on curiouSly devised petals of tuile or
silk net, and there are pearl beads
here and there TO add further 10 the
bewilderinG beauty Of the frocks.
Very beautiful are most of these
new frockS-yet too beautiful because
somehow so inappropriate for most oc-
casions. In years gone by women
worked tirelessly TO make priceless
tapestries and embroideries. They
made fabrics as rich and as intricate
and as beautiful as these. but only
women of queenly rank could wear
such fine raiment. Otherwise such
gorgeous fabric went to deck some
shrine or altar, to drape some favorite
image or to form priestly vestments.
Somehow these gorgeous fabrics so
lavishly used and prodigally embel-
lished by the dressmakers this Au-
tumn seem better suited to adorn
some shrine or medieval altar than to
make women's clothes.
GO It happens that many Of the most
- fashionable women-women who
could easily afford to buy these rich
and gorgeous clothes-merely look
awhile, admire and turn away. Then
they persuade their dressmakers to
make something simple and wearable,
smart and becoming.
OF course. there are some women
who have no such prejudices toward
the ornate. They will have az much
gilt and tinsel and metal embroidery
and shimmering lace on their frocks
as their budgets will allow.
What is that new shiny soft
velvet?" is a question that the retail
statesmen Of dress goods must grow
weary of answering. Wherever those
new lustrous velvets are displayed
they attract attention, vet few women
know that these are the new rayon
velvets That IL TO say. velvets made
of the fiber that we used to call arti-
fetal silk and now have agreed to
speak of as "rayon."
I'm other words, said one "a les |