Evening star., 1925-03-22

N I EN fashions in complex
y ions have become absolute
" y necessary" SAYS Paris.
Moreover. the RESPONSE
| bility of creating and
maintaining these chameleon COM
pleXion modes has DEVELOPED new
industry, that of facial artist ana
beauty Colorist
A single manufacturer of cosmetics
mas put out II new shades of rouge
and powder.
What is more significant profess
sional beauty schools are adding 10
their stans men with technical art
training, who know why lavender
shadows erase lines, why rose under
yellow softens the cheek curve, WHY
three shades Of lipstick are the very
least with which one can ACQUIRE the
perfect mouth
rms fashion started, of course with
the dress designers. They came to
the conclusion that the world was
getting too much of A muchness. as
Tar as women's clothes were con-
cerned. Something must be done TO
stop this American craze for stand
ardlzing. So they decided to offer
( a greater variety OF dress designs
taking for inspiration such diverse
sources IS the Renaissance and the
Empire, the Oriental and the Ameri-
I '-oii IIuppfi. anu. OF course. com DlGN-
/ ions must correspond
/ In the dress expeditions today. the
I models make UP far more carefully
\ than do most actresses Of the theater.
I When the models change from one
! creation to another. an entirely new
style of makeup is often called for.
4 And the customer who buys and wears
1 these beautiful gowns must do the
! same in order To carry out the epoch
or style That is why American
women are now returning from Paris
win vanity cases the size Of week
end bag
In little street in the Fauborg st.
Honore is the studio of NJ Armand
Lepic. once student a the Beaux
Arts and exhibitor at the salon now
a creator and improyer of faces
1t is NJ Lepic who today trains
many of the French dress models in
the art Of creating different illusions
of beauty.
NJ. Lepic has also private clientele
But he is careful to explain the care
of the skin Is not his affair: he is not
( a beauty doctor nor skin specialist
His province is that of an artist TO
. create ppes of beauty.
Il am not particularly concerned
in rejuV euescence alone" says NJ
/ Lepic. The most celebrated of our
French beauties are not young. The
reason is that beauty is an art-it
must have time for growth.
In France We admire a well car
ried-out type. Mile. Mistinguett, for
example. has become a most distinct
. personality, one of the most fasCinat-
ing of women. Thirty years ago she
was very ugly girl. However she
studied her type and made an enor-
nous hit in an apache dance She
afrNl Il faf IL l.
she was forced to abandon her daily
/ constitutional in the Bois. so great
was the crowd that her presence at
| tracted. And her vogue has increased
with years.
"Cecile Sorel, the celebrated actress
IF the Theatre Francais, whom you
have recently acclaimed in America.
was beautiful blond girl when She
/ was graduated from the Paris Con-
servatoire in 1892. and appeared with
Nine. Rejane in the original produc-
tion of Madame Sans Gene" con-
tinueS NJ. Lepic, but she is a more
beautiful woman today. In France We
give her equal credit for her art OF
beauty, and her art of the theater"
NJ. Lepic was kind enough to il
lustrate his theory with one of his
models, a rather nondescript young
ish person as she took her place be-
fore him. An assistant prepared her
face with creams, much as il is done
in the American beauty parlors-then
came the work of the artist
NJ. Lepic mixed his powders, choos-
ing tints as painter would his colors
| First he applied one shade and then
another, and n third over the blend
He used pads of cotton for this pur-
pose and art stubs and brushes TO
blend the delicate shadows about the
eyes and nose. He cleverly raised the
line of the brows, and so contrasted
the tint of the forehead and that OF
the rest of the face as to give the
effect of a broad smooth forehead
Ihen the bobbed hair was parted and
informally waved
VOLTA! The English type, immortal
lzed by the Poet Laureate Tennyson
as Maud 1t is this type that will
wear the new empire gowns that the
Paris designers are now creating
Yet, perhaps" reflected NJ. Lepic.
Perhaps the new empire frocks will
be better on the more subtle French
type-like the beautiful Nine. Re
camier. Then we will make the Eng
lish Maud a little bit naughtier."
And he transformed the rose leaf
skin to one like a magnolia bloom.
and the rosy lips became thinner, with
delicious dark corners. Truly the Re
camier type as the painter David saw
the celebrated lady
AS type of the fashionable dark
beauty, NJ. Lepic referred &c Marcella
Sonty, who now poses for Drian, the
noted Paris dres> aNSigner 1t was
"Sontie' who introduced -rfre natural
hair line, showing the ears.
Women say making over a face to
suit gown is an easy matter conn
Dared with making over a figure.