Evening star., 1925-11-22

the same time / do not wish to dis
count it as an art. II is an art, a
delicate and difficult one We work
In dress materials where other artists
work with paint or clay. The mod
ern world has always looked to us
for its styles in women's appares
and we hope that it always will.
Since You Americans are by far
our best customers we think about
you a great deal and follow as best
we can what you are doing ana
thinking, for we believe that fashion
In dress should conform to life and
be expressive of the manner of hy-
ing"
No Quantity Production.
There is no such thing as quantity
production in a Paris dressmaking
establishment, Mr.. Lelong explains.
Manufacturers of women's garments
in the United States make gowns
OF the same cut. decoration and
measurements. but in Paris. although
they actually turn out gowns by the
tens of thousands, every one differs
from every other. The models are
all made to the measure Of individual
customers, and often a model will
be changed to suit the appearance
of its future wearer, the customer
being given wide latitude in the
choice of materials and colors.
Thus, Mr.. Lelong says, because no
two women are built exactly alike
or endowed with identical appear
ance or taste. every gown they turn
out is a separate factory operation
THUS 1t will be impossible for us
ever to attain the quantity produc.
tion in our output that is so typical
and 1 may say, admirable, in your
dress factories. We can only roughly
stanoardize our operations; that
means, OF course, fewer gowns turned
out per employe in our houses than
In yours, and 1t also means that our
prices VIII always remain higher than
yours. The gown that we sell for
$loo In Paris you can duplicate and
sell for $50 in this country.
The Kinetic Silhouette.
AS a designer Mr.. Lelong has
created something of a sensation dur
ing the current season by originating
the style known as the kinetic sill
nouette OF flaring, flowing converg-
ing lines, which has largely supplant-
ed the straightline sheath gown.
the new style is said to be primarily
responsible for the prevailing idea
tnat women are growing simmer.
1t Is undoubtedly true" says Mr..
Lelong. that smart women look
slenderer than they used to look. In
fact. they look simmer than they did
a tWelve-month ago, but 1t is only an
Iliuslon. A year ago women were
wearing the straightline sheath or
sack gown. essentially an ugly style
no matter how the genius Of the
Paris designer sought to adorn and
sorten Its rectangular outline. 1t
was a style that emphasized every
DIT OF embonpoint a woman had and
1t sent the stout and suffering sister.
hood by shoals into reducing belts
dieting regimes and furnishing exer.
cises.
The kinetic silhouette puts move.
ment and animation into the basic
design OF a frock. To the eye it's es.
sential characteristic is flare, making
the vertical lines of the dress outline
bend gracefully inward from the skirt
hem to the shoulder. Everybody can
see the enect Of it-womankind seems
to have become slender overnight"
In the opinion Of this authority the
American woman is the most perfect
specimen of twentieth-century WON.
anhood. French women, he saws
have chic, charm and a certain sure
ness or taste that make them the
best collaborators of those who create
gowns, but the Parisienne leads nc
such rugged, healthful outdoor life
as does her average American sister
and therefore fails to attain that per.
feet physique which adds the final
touch OF natural grace to the wear.
ing Of clothes.