Putnam patriot., 1925-03-06
WESTERN TWO

WESTERN TWO camionH and buses pass through this crowded and prosperous reglon. Low CT down the country changes to ? section of ranches where cattle are grazing and steep hills that overlook the Pacific on the right with the mountains towering to the east.
 Tn Old Mexico
 San Diego is not entirely in this teeming section but is located beyond a rather bleak stretch of country and the train has some difficulty m com passing the precipitOus hills that lie just to the north of the city. but once over these hills and the traveller descends quickly into one of the most delightful cities in America.
 But there are races this afternoon over at Tia Juana just over tne Mexican line and 30 we do not stay n San Diego longer than to register at the extraordinary Ulysses S. Grant Hotel and then we are of m q Whizz- ing motor bus to Mexico.
 II is eighteen miles from San Diego to the Mexican border trip of some forty minutes from the Grant Hotel In the old days prior to prohibition Tia Juaua was an arid little settlement in the Mexican desert. But all this is changed. The SO called dry law has given this des- perate little town a new claim to fame as an accessible alcoholic oasis for Americans who find themselves in Southern California.
 One arrives at the border and passes through gate which marks the boundary line between the Mexi- can and the American Republics. Customs officers of both nations are on duty, the Americans more con cerned with their fellow country men who are coming out of the neigh boring state and who may be snug eling in that particular brand Of liquid refreshment which so many people believe Is now unobtainable under the restrictions of the Foi- stead Act.
 Tswdry Tia Juana
 Oddly enough. even the brief walk that takes the traveller from the hor- der Co the race course. shows dits ference between the two countries. On .he American side all is orderly and fine farms extend almost Co the very boundary But on the Mexican side there is no development yet eN= cent the race course. the rambling hell and the bar room. The race course as we saw 1t was crowded with much the same crowd that one sees at horse racing the world over. One might bet ones all on fifteen or twenty none too good looking horses. Beneath the grand stand there were various and snndry machines Of chance and bar room doing an ex- cellent business in the old prewar stge. There was nothing about the scene that differed too much from any American race course before the paralvzing hand of the refOrmei denaiured the sport some years ago. The unique thing about the Tia Juana race course Is it's location on the very edge of a desert as get untouched bv the magic of irrigation. Of to the south one sees the odd bulk of Table Mountain while the Pacific is to the West and the guardian mount aims tower higher than ever to the East.
 We soon tired of the racing with the brief intervals of desultory gam bling and by fivver rode a mile or so into the town of Tia Juana Imagine. if you can. your picture book idea of Western mining camp in the Bret Harte days. perched on tiny hilltop in the midst of an arid and desolate country and you have a men tal picture of Tia Juana. But in reality the husky miners are not there and Tia Juana thrives entirely on the consumption of alcoholics by visiting Americans. This is a town sacredly devoted to the bar room and in the midst of its three short streets practically every store excepting one devoted to souvenirs is given over to the brass rail and the mahogany coun- ter. Curiosity seeking tourists wan der about. occasionally drinking. oc- casionally playing at one of the hun dreds of gambling machines. now and then purchasing a small bottle of some liGueur or other which can be safely slowed away in the pocket away from the eyes of the curious customs inspector. But on the whole HN mas tue AWNH q H'ft A"Af AtAtAN place. The sordid faces of the Mexi- can proprietors. the poor iaded wo- men carrying their paint with such poor bravado in the almost tropical sun, the dingy drinking houses and the general squalor of 1t all make Tia Juana an unpleasant remembrance
 and rather ridiculous commentary on the work of the reformers. A half an hour in this part of Mexico is enough and the traveller Is glad Co step over the border once more past the lynx-like eyes of the customs inspec- tor. California seems clean and sturdy in contrast. and if your trip has been for the purpose of gratify- ing an unlawful thirst any native San Diegan will tell you where to gratify it without making a trip to Mexico and for half the price.
 (ro Be Continued Next Week.