Evening star., 1925-02-08

WlnQ CLOUDS StTeaInlHS up dtEoSS Tie
sky, we sailed down and passed the
channel south of Tucker Islands.
Before US, due east by the compass,
lay the green-blue length of Ad-
miralty Sound, white-capped and
swept by purple shadows
Eastward of Cape Rowlett the land
becomes increasingly abrupt and
mountainous. AT the head of Aims
worth Harbor there was visible to u.s.
as we passed the entrance. a glacier
huge as a frozen Mississippi.
All day we sailed with great wind
astern that sometimes mounted to a
gale. Those seas to our small boat
were mountains high. They followed
us as if to overwhelm us. they over
took and lifted us, and left us, foam
ing as they went.
x x X
THERE are few harbors along that
precipitous shore, and in the
miles between them scarcely a beach
or sheltered point where one could
land Accordingly, when, with the
afternoon not far advanced and the
wind still holding strong. We elected
to pass by Ainsworth Harbor and
continue up the sound, we put be-
fore US a good two hours sailing
to reach the next anchorage. Parry
Harbor And that with a wind so
fair and steady we should reach
there in broad daylight we had no
doubt But wise men do not rely on
the wind.
Within two hours it was calm, dead
CLASSY calm; and we rocked and
drifted helplessly about not two
miles from the headland at the har-
bor's mouth. So on our helplessness
the day went out; the shadow of the
far-off western mountain sides ex-
tinguishing at last the highest fam
ing peaks. And night descended,
chill and bleak, and then the wind.
As we turned the headland the
wind beat down in violent and vari-
able squalls. 1t was impossible to
see. We drove on into that darkness,
trusting to what the chart obscurely
showed of the coasts contour. For a
few minutes we steered due south
then, estimating that we had come
abreast of Stanley Cove, we pro-
ceeded to beat in short tacks straight
at the abysmal midnight of the
mountain side.
Some one had told us of two rocks
that we must pass between. With
straining eyes we saw them straight
before us. Sailing close hauled, it
seemed that by narrow margain
we could make the passage. Sud
y,
veered. We hung in stays moment
drifting onto the leeward rock.
With a swift presence of mind, the
mate threw the tiller hard to wind
ward We Stacked the sheet, then,
and bore away to clear the danger.
By a fathom's clearance we escaped
that shipwreck.
Somehow, aided by incessant sound
ing. we navigated safely that dark
entrance to the cove. and, finding
bottom at last, anchored in five faith
oms of water.
While the mate set things on board
to rights I launched the skiff and
rowed out into that night to discover
and explore the shore. I skirted the
rocks for perhaps a quarter of a mile
before encountering a landing place.
There on a pebble beach. drew
the skiff ashore, and stood at last
after a voyage of nearly 1000 miles
on grim TERRA del Fuego. DarklJ
appeared against the starlit sky the
tossing silhouette of wind-town trees
mountain lowered over me, i'm
mense and black. Snow was on the
and the wind roared through. the
forest tops.
X X X X
WITH strong, fair wind we saiiee
w next morning for the head o,
Admiralty Sound. The day was over
cast and sullen. 1t was a heartless,
bleak coast; a tragic coast undel
that days dark threat of storm. Tht
land at the head Of Admiralty Sount
is split by two valleys. betweer
them, extending into the sound, stand!
Mount Hope, the western end of &
rocky range that terminates wher'
the two valleys dip and join agafr
to make the bed of the great lnlant
lake. Forgnano. The southern pa!
lies open to the full fury Of the west
wind and the sea. A little treelesi
island two miles from the head, ant
near the shore, affords the only an
chorage.
Although the wind was strong, t.
save maneuvering we jibbed to come
about behind the island. And here
through my land-lubberly awkward
ness in the handling of the con
eested intricacies of tiller and shee
| at the cramped stern of our double
ender, the adventures of me nearl!
came to an untimely and inglorioui
end. The hurtling main boom STRUCK
me with terrific force, hurting M
| backwards over the complng.
clutched and held to God knows wha
and hung, half in the water, LITTLE
more ashamed than scared, and IA
more scared than hurt.
However, we had come about, ant
continuing a little further on tina
tack we shot up into the wind ant
| anchored in the calmer water of tn
! islands lee.
| On the shore Of the bay. half /.
mile from where we lay, stood tn
buildings and Enclosures of a sheel
| farm. Between its northern borde
| and the range of Mount Hope flow
a deep, swift stream, broadening nea
1 it's outlet SO as to afford a room,
anchorage for a boat of the tonnag