Evening star., 1925-12-03
ANCIENT GATEWAY
IN ITALY SAVED
Picturesque Portal at Pc
rugla Has Survived Many
Centuries of Bloody History.

with so many ancient landma rks
tumbling before the pick and steam
shoNel OF modern progress the news
mat an ancient gateway in PeruEia.
one OF Italy's famous hill towns"
has been saved from destruction
through popular appeal is welcome tn
I"NerS OF antiquity. Permission has
heen granted by the Commune Of the
town 10 run electric trans through
this gateway. near the Palazzo del
Iopolo, famous palace. but public in
o1cnation brought about a resembling
Of the permit
The city has known one OF the
stormleSt and bloodiest Of histories"
says bulletin from the Washing
ton headquarters of the National Geo
graphic Society. High on hill com
mandins the River Tiber Perugia has
been safe from enemies from without.
but il has been torn by internal quar-
rels. In the decline of Rome no bar
oarian mounted its walls. but the
pilots Of its nobility and the quick tenn
perS or its citizens resulted often in
teapo, tempests that Wen, on until
one side or the other was almost eX-
terminated.
'PeruSla is almost midway between
Rome and Florence, although not on
the main line railroad connecting the
two cities. Like Siena and Assist. its
reichburhuod. it is built in antiquated
sIyle. partly on top If u group of hill
tops and partly on the slopes. with
iinE Views Of the ApennineS in every
direction. II has picturesqueneSS Of
accident. of irregularity of rising and
falling ground. and of striking com
binafions OF light. shade and color.
Everywhere except on the short
spinal ridge the streets are Staircases
and tohoggan slides. Everywhere one
climbs or burrows. The life of Peru
Eian is truly one of ups and downs.
"on the map, Perugia is spread out
like q great stone-scaled dragon on its
rock. crouChin- over the country and
extending long paws down the valley
side. Nature furnishes back grounds
of olive-covered hills and distant
mountains. while nearly every vista
on its staircase streets is broken and
framed by the graceful stone arches
that huttreSs the tall houses. The old
towers and donjons have largely dis
appeared. but the atmosphere Of the
town is military and despotic. Many
houses still show traces of the heavy
chains that barred the streets after
nightfall. when, if man forgot his
steel undershirt, he came home in a
wooden one.
No Modern Perugia.
"PeruSia is really four cities in one.
There is the ancient Etruscan Peru
Efa, with its walls and stone gateway.
the Roman PeruSia. whose masonry
rests on what remained of the F,truS-
can city after the natives had set fire
to Mt; the medieval Perugia of the Bag
lioni, built on the Roman foundations.
and the Renaissance Peruria of the
Popes, reared on tho ashes Of the Bag
liuri palaces.
q" In the strict sense. however. there
l. no modern PeruCia The railroad
station is. as in most European cities.
Tar outside the ancient city walls. Two
street Car lines. a few automobiles
and some up-to-date shops. clustered
around the tourist center. are the only
fnrUadS the present has been able to
make. There has been no temptation
10 build since the sixteenth century.
The patches added To its crumhlnc
lanparts and houses in the last four
hundred years have enhanced their
natural attraCtiVeneSs.
The rich pastoral beauty and re-
pose of Perugia's surroundings have
left their mark on the art of the city.
Al tho seat of the renowned Umbrian
school Of painting it earned a high
place in the realms Of Italian art dur
in- the fifteenth century, when Peru
GiI was the most powerful city in this
part Of Italy. The neighborhood of
Siena and the religious atmosphere of
nearby Assist and Loreto doubtless ex-
ercised an influence on the prevailing
style. which has been described as
lacking dramatic power. but being
rich in reverie. Raphael was once a
student of the PeruGian master. Pietro
NennucCi Today the walls of many
Of Perugia & churches and former pal
aces arc alive with examples Of the
work of the school.
In the main square hv the side of
the hic unfinished Gothic Cathedral
the life Of the city once csntered. Here
the gentle PeruGians played n one of
the hloodiest and most dangerous
games in the World-that of hurting
stones at one another until often
dozen were killed and scores wounded.
In times of peace this was the Peru
Eian equivalent Of a base ball game
or the movies.
According to some critics Perugia
has. in the Porta Augusta. one of the
finest gates in the world 1t beetles in
black magnitiCanCe above q whole
quarter of the town. its base early
Roman. the middle sections Ro-
nldnPSQue- ana the airy top ttenalS-
sance The whole is now blackened
with dust, decay and fire, and. while
It is not imposing in the sunlight. its
heavy stone bucklers, fiuted pilasters
and massive base are awe-inSpiring in
the damp and gloom. when mist is fly
Ing through the streets. These I'm
brian cities seem 50 Roman. says one
writer that the sight Of Caesars
lacions marching through them. with