Evening star., 1925-12-27
TOWNS WIN FAME
BY NATIVE CHEESES
Out of-Way Places in Europe
Remembered for DeIicacies
They introduced.

The memorial tablet which has been
erected 10 Nine. Marie Harel. creator
nj Camembert cheese. at her Brittany
cottage in Camembert. France, re-
calls that the United States Depart
menut of Agriculture was surprised
I" find large increase in the imports
oi Camemhert cheese from France
Immediately after the World War.
lnveSticataion showed that the A. f..
+. like the old Crusaders returning
from Palestine with a new-found love
for the spices and silks of the East,
came back from France with relish
for Camemhert.
Bully beef" was drah fare to the
American douEhhoy. lie craved
substitute for the pies and all the rest
that mother made SO he sought out
French farmhouses, where he begged
or bought food that knew not tins.
Usually his search was rewarded with
cheese. What could Danish camp
ratlOnS. monotony easier than spicy
odored and spicy Favored Camembert?
With bit of Camembert wrapped in
tinfoll there must be purchased in
many American delicatessens today
memories of friendly folk in deep
rooted Norman cottages.
Made by Mold.
What Nine. Harcl discovered in
Camemhert 30 miles south nf the re-
sort Deauville. was the way 10 CON
troll certain mold" says Il bulletin
of the National Geographic Society
from its Washington. u. e, headquar-
ters on the well known foreign and
domestic cheeses The Camembert
culture can now he secured from con-
Germs who make il a business 10 grow
It, Camembert and allied varieties
like Brie are cured widely throughout
northern France. American produc-
tion now shares the United States
market. Camembert differs from most
cheeses in that the mold forming on
the exterior mellows the core. When
the cheese is ripe the interior is
creamery blob inclosed in a stiff, dis
rolored sheath.
so slender is the path the world
makes 10 the historic homes OF famous
cheeses that one often must go to
Raedeker for the sign posts. Camem-
bert is on few maps; Cheddar, which
supplies the technical title for Ameri~
can or rat trap cheese, is 10 miles
southeast of Bristol, England; Stilton
is SIS miles directly north of London;
riorgonzola is in Italy, close TO Milan
Parma, one of the largest of the
cheese towns. is the city in south
Lombardy that gives its name to'Par-
mesan: Swiss cheese is more properly
E,mmental for the Valley of Emmen
Thai near Bern; Munster, in Ger
many. saw the birth of Munster
cheese: red and yellow Edam cheese
balls are still colorful ornaments to
the Edam market, near Amsterdam
\eufchatel, on the Dieppe-Paris rail
line. was the object of German drives
for far other purposes than to get
soft cream cheese; Limbours. the
town made famous by an odor. lies
near Liege, where Belgium halted the
invaders: and. finally. there ia Rogue
fort. in the Auvergne Plateau of cen
tral France.
Queen of Roman Cheese.
could senator of ancient Rome
Shop with his wife in modern met
ropolitan delicatessen, he would GER
tainlv come out the door with pack.
age of Roquefort. for two reasons:
First because it would he one OF the
few comestfbleS with which he was
familiar: second. because Roquefort
was priced beyond all cheeses in
Rome.
For more than two thousand years
the caVerns of Roquefort have cured
cheeses. Roquefort has natural
monopoly. because nowhere else do
Nature and man combine the same
elements. In the limestone rock are
numerous linked caves in which there
is much water. Nature maintains in
these cavernS a constant temperature
which hovers above freezing and an
atmosphere saturated with moisture
perfect conditions to favor the Rogue
fort mold and discourage growth of
other mOldS.
"On the rocks above the hillsmen
tend ZOO sheep. a special breed in
which the requirements for wool and
for meat have been sacrificed for the
maximum supply of milk.
'Roquefort culture spores are prop
asated in special bread. which is
dried, ground and mixed into the
Sheep-milll cheese. Before the cheese
goes to the caverns the makers per-
forate the cylinders with a skewer to
admit air. Skewer marks may be
traced in the slender lines of green
mold found in all Roquefort cheese.
Americas contributions TO the
cheese industry have been chiefly sci
entifc production, large scale output
and improved styles of marketing
philadelphia cream cheese and
some other cream cheeses are new
in that fresh curd is used. but the
texture links them to the Neufchatel
group.
Wisconsin Outstrips Switzerland.
Wisconsin in one year produces
more than twice AS much cheese as
Switzerland. Yet Wisconsin owes an
eternal debt to Switzerland because
her cheese industry was built up in
part by Swiss immigrants. Still ear
lfer, Amsterdam's S knowledge of cheese
making was transplanted to New
Amsterdam, and cheese making Gen.
terS still mark the westward march
OF Dutch pioneers in New York, Mich
iEan and parts of Wisconsin,
Loaf cheese, wrapped in tin foil,
is strictly a Yankee invention and A
good one, because a slice is the size
of piece of bread. and because dry
ing cannot exact great losses in mon
ey and quality.
Not many months ago man who
is a big figure in American politics
and industry arrived in Washington.
FinployeS in this mans aSbington
Office stood ready to do his bidding.
His first question on this trip ade
their heads whirl.
How can one put holes in Swiss
cheese he a sked
His employees soon found this was
no joking matter. This famous man
II appears, when he can forget af.
fairs Of the nited States, the world
and business. is absorbed in his big
farm. \ problem had arisen in the
dairy. The Swiss cheese had no holes
Since the presence or absence of holes
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