Evening star., 1925-06-13
FEz, MOOR CAPITAL,
PICTURESQUE CITY.
Ancient Architecture Un-
spoiled by French Regimes.
In Prime 1000 Years Ago.

"Fez. the center Of French operation
against the rebellious Riff tribesmen
of Morocco, lies, at this season of the
year, like a pearl on the slopes OF
green velvet hills" says a bulletin
from the Washington headquarters of
the National Geographic Society.
"A compact, white-robed city of un-
even fiat roofs and inexpensive walls,
with the blue Riffian hills to the north
and the crystal-croWned heads of the
Atlas Mountains to the south framed
in a cobalt sky. there is probably no
more alluring picture to the Western
eye than this long hidden holy city of
Morocco, seat of Moslem learning for
more than 1000 years.
Air of Enchantment.
From among the roofs rise the
minarets of the mosques, not the
slender round towers. like those
farther east, but square in shape, like
the Giralda of Seville. But it is the
great crenelated outer ramparts, with
their rounded projections or scallops
that give to it, and to every Moroccan
town, it's air of enchantment and
mystery.
1T is only from distance that
Fez possesses its snow-white appear
ance. AT closer range the immutabe
walls Of the ancient city fascinate the
stranger with the multiplicity of their
Shadings from terra Gotta to ocher
nearly golden in some lights, buff and
even purplish in others. Massive
watchtoWers and an occasional gate
with a horseshoe arch interrupt their
regular course around the gently roll
ing plain in which the city is built.
Walls Within Walls.
Breaking the monotony of these
walls within walls, built in the DAYS
when Moroccan cities were perpetual
~ menaced, are the smiling fields and
gardens that encircle the city, and
the glimpses of courtyards and
gardens within, where Expresses,
pomegranates, apricots and oleanders
shade the jasmine and rose.
''FeZ has four distinct divisions
the Medina, or native town; the Mel
lah, or Jewish quarter; the Sultans
palace and grounds, and the new
French city outside the walls for the
French. in their conquest of North
Africa, have been especially careful
not 10 interfere with Moslem archi-
lecture, religion or customs.
The native city is divided. in turn
into Djedid. the upper town. and
FL Bali. the lower older section.
DJedid Slasts of some fine old palaces
and gardens, some Of them abandoned
one OF which is now used as a French
hotel. El Bali is a labyrinth of dark
lanes, flanked by buildings which are
W1ndoWleSS save for the barred Sits
in the upper stories. Narrow lanes
and streets rooted with lattices of
reeds minimize the severity of the
suns rays.
Shops Picturesque.
The booths of the merchants. who
sit. croSs-legged. smoking kief in long
reed pipes, are cubby-hole baZaars
Waist-hfgh above the street All dav
long never-ceasing human tide
flows by their shops while they sit
and wait by the hour among their
wares - cinches for horses. saddle
blankets. rainboW-hued silks and CAV
colored cotton cloth.
Until recent times Fez had a
monopoly on the red felt caps which
bear the Citys name In the old
days, it is said, the carmine dye for
these caps was obtained from the
juice of a Moroccan berry. But now
fezzes are also manufactured in Tur-
key and in France.
Some of the aristocratic types seen
on the narrow streets Of the native
city are most striking. These are
men of white skin and noble mien.
whose flowing robes lend a certain
grace and dignity. Most of the
natives are Moors. who number, in
the French and Spanish zones. about
5000, 900. There are also many ad-
mixtures Jewish. Turkish and
European, as well as negro slave
blood from the Far South.
Ended Long Oppression.
The coming of the French in this
region meant the end of long years
of oppression for many of the inhabi-
tants, especially the Jews.
The French in Morocco have had
to build vely-administration
buildings, post offices. barracks, rail
way stations. warehouses, hotels,
shops, homes. A fine arts commits
sion supervises all buildings and
grounds. The buildings, always
white, are usually of two stories, with
broad windows instead of blank
Moslem walls. There are arcades,
patios, columns and arches. Color is
introduced in bands of glazed tiles,
blue predominating.
Formerly "a great seat of learning
FeZ still is sacred to Moslem pilgrims
Its Mosque of Muldai Idris is con-
sidered so holy that the streets lead
ing to its entrance are closed to Jews
Christians and four-footed beasts In
the Medersas, however. the visitor
can see the beautiful Moslem archi-
lecture at it's best. For nearly 1900
years Moslem art has been essentially
the same-simple of outline, with
decorations in complicated geometri-
cal design, since the Moslem faith is
prejudiced against the representation
of any form of life.
THE Riffian tribesmen, numbering
about 10000. occupy the hill territory
to the north and west of Fez. They
are valiant fighters"
HENRY c. MIDDLETON, SO,