Evening star., 1925-05-10
Seasons Ensemble Idea Demands Carefully Chosen
BY MARY MARSHALL.

= ONE. ONE suggested recently
that; dressnlakers and milliners
~ should no longer be called by
~ these old.time names, but should
be known as ''ensemblers.'' 1t
is "a pity there is no good English
Ensemble is a particularly dificult
work for the Anlerican.bred tongue to
encircle. and ''ensemhler" is just a
little worse. /, AssempIer may be a
dictionary equivalent, but it hardly
carries the same shade of meaning.
The sis.idcant fact is that a lot of
the French dress4nakersi have taken
this ensemble idea came to play such
an important part in fashion. Patou
and Martial ct Armand are two
French dressmakers who are making
much of sports clothes, and they have
not hesitated to show sport hats, to-
eether with frocks and coats, since
fashion. DEGREES that ones hat should
match ones frock.
The ~Tnilliners have felt the same
URGE and occasionally show simple
little. froeks to go with the hats they
have On display. ,Oftener. there is a
sc4rffA handbag, a belt or some other
accessory: to, go with the hat. One
London- concern Is showing tweed
sport skirts, together with jaunty lit
not 1nfrequently are sold as the affin-
tiles of hats or scarfS or handbags.
And a parasol and hat may be as in
separable as two love birds cooling on
the same perch The shopkeeper
couldn't think of selling one without
the other.
1t sometimes does make shopping
quite eNpenSiFe--you go out to buy
a hat, and there is no telling what
YOU will have to bring home along
with the hat. Buying an interesting
pair of shoes may lead you into buy
ing an accompanying leather belt. for
which you can see no immediate need
In your wardrobe.
THE ensemble idea is working
peaceful sort of havoc in the de-
partment stores, and it is difficult
problem to find where one department
ends and another begins. Slips have
to be sold in the blouse department,
or women would never be able to
match their tunics to them. And it
whether an ensemble frock really be-
longs in the frock department, with
the coats, or on the racks where the
suits are shown.
Doubtless this situation, amusing
and sometimes veXatious as Il may
be, makes for much better dressing.
Always women of unusual diScrimi-
nation in matters of dress have paid
close attention to the ensemble idea.
They have never gone joyously forth
to buy anything in the way of an ac-
cessory of dress that their fancy
prompted. They have felt the neces-
sity always of buying everything as
part of a whole. But this has been
rather unusual. Now almost every
woman feels something of this urge.
Fashion demands it. The result Is
that women as you see them look less
like lay figures in a secondhand
clothes store.
With this feeling for the ensemble,
accessories are playing an important
role. For it is the we'll chosen Access
sorry that very often links together the
whole costume Just for example
Here is a parasol and a shawl, made
to be bought together. They are Lam
vim green with an embroidered land
scape on each. Either one worn sepa-
rately with an elaborate frock might
appear to poor advantage, but worn
together as the sole elaboration of a
severely simple white crepe de chine
frock and a plain little white felt or
silk hat they would produce a really
smart appearance.
Then there is a hat and scarf to
match, q wide -brimmed summery hat
of pink and cocoa-colored tulle-a
very smart color combination that, by
the way-trimmed with a pink tulle
flower. With it goes a scarf of the
two shades of tulle with a flower
matching the one on the hat.
With many women the problem of