Arizona state miner., 1925-05-16
Two Most Popular Fashions
of Season Combined
In Latest Mode.

The mode has acquired complex
and Freudian complex to boot,
writes a Paris fashion correspondent
in the New York Herald-Tribune.
Having freed itself from the tyranny
Of the tubular outline. it has stepped
blithely into the maelstrom Of the mas
culine influence in dress versus the
feminine, and milady is still unable
to rest easy in the lap of fashion
Contrast the mannish tailleur and the
essential feminine ensemble, the sim
pie unadOrned suits with the fl%Ily ana
intricate dresses of the new season,
the mold and flare with the straight
line, and you will begin to apprecl-
ate the numerous conflicting issues
which have been raised by the Paris
couture Out of the varied maze OF
themes it is clearly evident that the
mode must either follow the strlcter
lines of the mannish tailleur, the gen
tier influence of the feminine ensem-
BILE, or else arrive at some happy com
promise.
The ensemble is the leading expo
nent of the feminine influence in
spring dress, and it is equally lead
er in the revolt from the hackneyed
tubular silhouette. The theme, of
course, may be and frequently is ex-
tended to hats, hosiery, shoes and the
various other accessories Of dress, but
in its essential form it consists of
a dress and coat which are brought
into single identity by means of
fabric trimming or fabric design.
The most usual linking liaison is a
printed material which is used for the
! dress and the lining of the coat, and
which appears not infrequently upon
sleeves, collar and hemline as WELL
Granted that there is no longer any
thing novel in the theme-it was
originally introduced in the winter of
1923-24-its principal virtue lies in
the fact that it's novel effects cannot
be easily initiated. On that basis
Long Coat and FIared Dress.
Ensemble dresses are normally Of
silk, principally georgette- crepe, satin,
crepe satin, chiffon and taffeta, while
the coats are usually developed in wool
and silk. Except for Chanel, the
Paris designers have chosen the three
| quarter, seven-eighths or full-length
coat to accompany these costumes, and
| Chanel has chosen the short coat only
to be worn with her well-known jump
er effects. Redingotes and an Oc-
casional suggestion of the directoire
are noteworthy in the new ensemble
| coats. The most frequent combina-
| tion Is the three-Quarter kasha coat
lined with printed silk and the silk
frock with hemline flare.
The only obstacle which prevents
| the spring ensemble from achieving
| a landslide this season is the tailored
suit, which is bravely returning after
q dismally cold reception last year.
| The tailleur boasts q long line of in
| spring sponsors this season both in
| the ranks of the haute monde and in
the ranks of the equally haute cou-
ture-it is a definite response to the
trend toward unadorned simplicity and
| its vogue for spring already is dis
| tlnctly assured in smart circles.
The silhouette of the tailormade is
comparatively undstinguished-it is
short, straight, and subject to none
of the allurements Of the frilly en-
semble In it's typical form the tail
leur consists of jacket and skirt of
the same material and either silk
waist or piQue waistcoat The
Jackets are short or long but the skirt
does not share that indecision-it Is
always short, and is sometimes cur
tailed beyond the point Of artistry.
Our own preference is for the short