davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Formal Frocks of
Elaborate Weave
Materials of Richest Texture
Chosen for CoIorful
Gowns.

After several years of fashions that
have been more than a little casual,
the tendency toward greater formal
ity comes as something of a relief.
Women have grown tired of aping the
fashions of extreme youth and of wear
ing boyish modes that SO often we're
utterly unsuited to obviously feminine
contours.
Simple lines and certain masculine
severity still appear in frocks designed
for sports and country wear, but there
Is undoubtedly reaction in favor of
The more elaborate gowns for occa-
sions demanding models OF more or
less formality.
1t is perhaps more in cut and details
Of trimming that this tendency toward
elaboration is evident, for the basic
foundation of every frOck Is silhou-
cite of natural grace. The nodded
bodice, the slightly raised waistline
and the full skirt with flounces, GO
diets or inserted plisses proclaim the
recent origin of the model. One of the
best known designers in Paris intro
duces the necessary fitness in skirts
by placing godet directly in the CEN
ter of the front. Other frocks boast
as many as three fleunces, the upper
fiounce formed by the waist extending
1own over the skirt.
Materials used for formal frocks are
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

Cotton, the bureau points out, may
be chosen for it's low cost, ease of
laundering GOODNESS and durability;
mercerized cotton because it combines
durability and beauty with low cost;
linen for its absorptive properties, re-
sistance to soil, beauty and durability !;
wool for its warmth silk for its great
beauty and durability; and artificial
silk, now frequently called rayon, for
its extreme luster. Mixtures of fibers
may be desirable in cases where wear
ing quality has not been too greatly
sacrificed in order to lower cost. There
are also many grades of cotton, linen
or other fibers, with which the pur-
chasers should be familiar to some ex-
tent The method of weaving a fabric
is an important point, bearing upon it's
durability and attractiveness. Such
familiar weaveS as the basket weave,
the twill or the satin, mean to most of
us entirely different materials, and in
fiuence our selection. The finish of
material should be understood, as, for
instance, the difference between mer-
cerization, which is a process that
strengthens cotton and gives it a gloss,
and the finishes produced by applying
paste-like filings to the cloth. The
subject of dyes is a very large one In
itself, but the housekeeper can learn
how to test whether the color of a ma
terial is fast to the purpose intended
fast to light or to water.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

of 'cape" feathers. The "napa" tam
mage - an alum process - formerly
much used by the German tanners in
the preparation Of "cape" feathers, has
been largely discarded in it's favor.
For the chrome "cape" tannage the
ingenuity of several American tanners
is responsible. Chrome tannage is
simply the method of making skin into
leather by the use of a compound of
chromium. 1t is snort, accurate
process, and is relatively cheap.
cape" skin gloves are always in
good taste for wear with almost any
business suit for men, or with a
tailored costume for women. They
are good choice for sports wear, too.
They are'worn practically all the year
round-except, possibly, in the ex-
tremely hot summer months-since
they are made both with light stitch
ing for fall and spring, and with
quite heavy stitching for winter wear.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Chinese Motifs Still
in Fashion Limelight

Chinese blue is still one of the lead
ing colors, being much favored for
negligees because it is a practical color,
and easily frightened when combined
with butter-cup yellow or even a dark
err shade.
Chinese motifs in embroidery are
among the popular designs also, being
used a good deal this season in odd
effects on silk underwear.
A style of trimming on underwear
that is new and most effective is ap-
plique of black lace or net on colored
silks and georgette used for night
dresses and costume slips. The lace
is cut in pattern to use on bodice, and
also trimming for skirt, and when APP
pliqued in black or apricot, green or
pink georgette. or silk, the effect is
very beautiful.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Belts Are Attractive;
Fringe of Silk Strands

Novelties in belts are shown in
many attractive forms. Leather belts
OF great variety are not definite fea-
ture OF any costume, but they are pref
ty and are seen on occasion. Some are
very wide, of soft suede in lovely
shades of green and gray, beige, blue
and scarlet, with slender buckles coy
cred with suede or with a simpler con-
trivance for fastening. Very narrow
belts worn with sweaters are of
leather, often decorated with metal
dots and nailheads.
Something entirely new in fringe is
late Importation from Paris 1t is
made of silk strands, very deep and
dyed in several colors, with a some
what barbaric effect. 1t is offered as
trimming suitable for negligees,
scarfs and shawls. All kinds of
fringes, wide and narrow, fine and
heavy, are used. It's softly swaying
grace has an enduring charm. 1t is
always a favorite with Madeleine vi
onnet, who has done some fringe
trimmed gowns of particular distinc-
ton this season.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

the mode is a brown velvet frock de-
signed for Miss Fourteen or younger.
1t is enlivened with rows Of red stitch
Ing on the skirt, and other touches of
novel embroidery about the neck and
sleeves. A navy dress was embellished
with collar and cuffs of red crepe de
chine and correspondingly bright yarn
embroidery.
Sometimes the silk crepe takes the
form of plating on the velvet frock as
defined in the handsome dress to the
right in the picture. 1t Isl interesting to
note that the sleeves are long and
close fitting, following the trend of
vogue which applies to children's
frocks as well as those of their elders.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Cape Gloves Suitable
for All-Around Wear

You can count glove counter after
glove counter in the mems sections"
Ge the large department stores, COW
cred with standard glace or grain
leather gloves which are. most fire.
quently, made of capeskin.
Or, turning to the women's depart
Dlent, you will see the heavier kinds
Of women's gloves, especially strap
wrist styles or any short gloves, made
of the same material.
"Cape" gloves, in other words, are
primarily suited for all-around, COM
mon-every- wear. One reason for
this is that they are, ordinarily,
washable, and, therefore, weather
proof.
This quality is dine to fha chrome
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

new quiet shades-beige, champagne,
gray, gold, in which they are as ethe-
real as cloud. In the handsomer de-
signs, the pattern is outlined with
silk cord sewn on by hand, giving q
much more important effect, especial
ly when the cord is of deeper shade
or another color than the lace itself.
In lingerie laces the staples are
used with few novelties. Binch and
point de, Paris are shown on some
of the finer things, and on the less
expensive fillet AS a matter of fact
very little lace of any sort is seen
on the best lingerie-fine neadlework
being far more fashionable. Some
thing new in sheer trimming is tinted
footing. 1t is made of very fine net In
several widths and is dyed in pretty
shades of blue, pale green, rose and
lavender.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
CHARMING DAYTIME FROCKS:
VELVET FOR THE CHILDREN

IN FEATURING crepe satin fashion
creators take occasion to remind
us that there are two sides to a
question" This continued popularity
of two-faced satin is merited. A ma
terial, which, being reversed, forms it's
own trimming, could not but win it's
way to the top in the world of fash
lon.
With the coming of the gay winter
season crepe satin is in very color
full mood. Time was when the all
black crepe-back satin frock was the
center of attention, and be it here
emphasized that it is still a favorite
for practical wear However, the pro-
gram is being varied with the advent
Of fascinating frocks and ensembles of
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
TWO PARIS MODELS IN VELVET

Ing modes. Circular godets of the
shiny side of the material were insert
ed around the hemline to provide the
necessary flare for the slim coat cut
with the dull crepe out. Revers and
cuffs stressed the luster weave, match
ing the godets.
Clever manipulation of crepe satin
imparts chic to the frocks here pic
tured. Note the tendency to mold the
lines to the hips in the dress to the
right.
The deep circular flare which serves
as an overdrape to the stylish gown
to the left exposes the crepe side Of
the material, as also do the strips
which serve as a background for the
shiny satin buttons. The high collar
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

navy blue satin crepes. These are
very handsome, especially expressed
In terms of an ensemble, wherein the
long coat is made with the dull-sur-
faced side out. While there is a pre-
dominance of navy and black there
are indications that the new wine
shades, gracklehead blue and amber
satin frocks will register among fash
ions newest numbers. The method of
procedure, when it comes to high col
ors, is to use the dull side for the
garment proper, applying the luster
effect for borderings and trimmings.
An effective treatment was noted in
a long navy satin coat in recent
style show, which gives clue to COM
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

are two outstanding style features in
this model
Velvet is the fashion for chil6ren's
frocks. Paris says so. Gayly trimmed
are these juvenile velvet costumes.
Some of them are strewn with cum
ming bouquets of little flowers done
in brightest wool stitchery, to accent
the childish note. Others, like the
straightlined smock-like frock In the
picture to the left, fiaunt scarves and
trimming of colorful printed silk This
picturesque little dress is distinctly
Partisan.
The favorite shades for the velvet
costume are black, navy and brown,
their somberness offset by cheerful de-
tails. Answering to the demands OF
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

With the inimitable artistic touch of
the French couturier, a brilliant note
of color it attained in the wool-em-
broidered bordering. The crepe for
the plating exactly matches the velvet
which is in that popular new grackle-
head tone.
Nor are little girls carrying all the
honor Of wearing velvet. Smock suits
of velvet, for wee boys, with vestees,
cuffs and collars Of contrasting crepe,
are the latest innovation in lilliputian
fashionlansi.
Satin is also being used for little
boys suits, which goes To show that
tiny tots are dressing in festive style
tuned to the gaiety of holiday parties
and entertainments.
HULA ROTTQFJ nv
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

Baked Apple With Raisins.-Pare
and core apples, fill the cavities with
sugar, raisins and pieces of butter.
Bake fifteen minutes. Remove and
I'LL the centers with more sugar and
cinnamon and butter. Replace in the
oven and haste with boiling water to
make sirup. Bake until the apples
are soft. Serve hot with cream.
Apple and Brown Bread Pudding
Take one pint of brown bread crumbs.
one pint Of chopped apples, two-thirds
of pint Of finely chopped suet, one
cupful of raisins, one egg, one table
spoonful of -four, one-half teaspoonful
of salt, and one-half pint of milk. Mix
the apples and bread crumbs Add
suet, raisins egg, flour, salt Mix with
milk and boil in a buttered mold for
two hours. Serve with lemon sauce.
Lemon Sauce.-Take two teaspoon
fuls of cornstarch or arrow root, two
cupfuls of water, one cupful of sugar,
one and one-half tablespoonfuls of but
ter, the rind and juice of one lemon.
Mix the starch and sugar, add boiling
water and cook twenty minutes. Add
fiavOring and butter and serve hot.
Onion and Apple SaIad.-Chop fine
small Bermuda onion, add two cup
fuls of finely diced apple (good favored
tart apple), add handful Of dates cut
fine, a sprinkling of chopped green
pepper and mayonnaise enough to
moisten. Serve on heart leaves of
head lettuce. Sprinkle with paprika
as garnish. A spoonful Of apple
sauce on top is both appetizing and
decorative
Apple Dumpling-Take four cup
fuls of sliced apple, one-half cupful
of water, two cupfuls of flour, four
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one
half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth
cupful of sugar, one cupful OF milk and
a little grated lemon rind. Mix and
sift the dry ingredients, except the
sugar. Add milk. Fill a buttered
pudding dish with apples, add sugar
water lemon rind, cover with -four
mixture and steam one and one-half
hours. Serve with lemon sauce.
Potato Pancakes.-Peel three large
potatoes, crate them, add salt, pepper
little milk and flour enough to make
the batter the right consistency to fry.
Heat the griddle hot, add fat and fry
long enough to thoroughly cook them.
Serve with apple sauce or jam of any
kind.
Nourishing Soups.
A cream soup is sufficiently nourish-
Ing to serve as the main dish. Where
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Jersey Jumpers

The jersey jumper frocks are NOV
ing into and out of the smart shops
with a speed that dispenses the same
warm glow to the shopkeepers once
distributed by Jersey Lightning"
The colors in which these frocks come
are charming and the frocks them
selves are both chic and comfortable.
The latest examples are distinguished
by two inverted plaits on the skirt,
high collars, tight long sleeves and
row of round buttons down the front.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
HOW to Resize Rug and
Stop IL From Curling

Resting adds to the durability Of
the rug and makes it look much bet
ter. 1t can be done at home or by a
carpet dealer, says the, United States
Department Of Agriculture.
The rug should be stretched tight
and true and tackled at frequent inter-
walls, face down, on a floor or some
other fiat surface where it can remain
undisturbed. 1t should then be sprin-
kled generously with solution made
by soaking and dissolving one-fourth
pound of flake glue in one-half gallon
of water in a double boiler or con-
tainer surrounded by hot water. The
rug should be allowed to dry for at
least "a hours. If it is light weight,
care should be taken not to put on so
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

-
good favored soup that satisfies all
Cream of Potato Soup.-Boil two
large potatoes and mash well, adding
a cupful of cream, season with salt
and grated onion Blend two table,
spoonfuls each of butter and flour. add
two cupfuls of cold milk and cook IN
til smooth. Serve hot with croutons.
Sweetbread Soup.-Reheat one quart
of veal stock and add two cupfuls of
cream which has been blended with
two beaten egg yolks Take from the
heat, season to taste, add one cupful
Of parboiled sweetbreads cut into fine
pieces. Garnish with whipped cream
and minced parsley.
Egg Soup.-Butter six slices of
stale bread, sprinkle with sugar and
brown in the oven. Reheat two cup-
fuls of veal stock and two cupfuls of
milk beaten with the yolks of three
eggs. Add tablespoonful of butter !:
season with salt and pepper, minced
parsley and a grating of nutmeg. Pour
over the toast; cover for ten minutes
and serve
Cream Veal Soup.-Chop fine three
pounds of lean veal and one large
onion. Cover with two quarts of cold
water; simmer three hours, strain and
cool. Thicker with two tablespoon
fuls of flour blended with a little cold
milk, add three well-beaten eggs and
a pint of milk. Season with salt and
pepper and minced parsley.
Veal and Celery Soup.-Cut up three
pounds of veal, break the bones, cover
with four quarts of water and simmer
for four hours; strain and return to
the fire. Add two punches of celery
and two chopped onions, simmer until
the vegetables are soft. Press through
a fine sieve, thicken with two table
spoonfuls of cornstarch mixed with
two cupfuls of milk; add two table
spoonfuls of butter In small bits, re-
heat and serve with diced fried bread.
Blood stains of wooden goods, if
fresh, may be completely removed If
saturated at once with dry starch. 1t
absorbs the moisture and when dry
all the stain will brush out.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
FILL COOKIE JAR
FOR THE HOLIDAYS
Supply of Sweet Cakes Is
| Valuable Asset.

prepared by the United States Department
of Agriculture)
AS the Christmas holidays draw
near, supply of cookies, kept in air.
tight tins or Jars, is valuable asset
to the housekeeper Perhaps she has
boys and girls coming nome from
boarding school or college, with seem
ingly Unsuitable appetites and glowing
recollections of the good things mother
makes; or the holiday season brings
unexpected callers, and visitors from a
distance; or there is need for a few
last-minute Christmas remembrances,
which may well take the form of a
box or fancy basket of delicious home
made cookies.
Peanuts or other nuts, chopped or
whole, dates, raisins, figs, or frostings
Of various kinds may be used to mod
ify the recipes given below by the
United States Department of Agricul-
ture. The chopped nuts and dried
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

OF the richest weave and texture, and
reflect the element of color that infiu-
ences SO strongly the modes of the
present season.
Rich heavy satins, cleaning metal
brocades. sheer fragile chiffons, and
velvets with changing lights and shad-
ows in their lustrous surface are
chosen for frocks of marked distinc-
ton and individuality. Exceedingly
smart is two-piece jumper model
fashioned Of colored metal brocade.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

juicy apple eaten at least
once a day is the best of
medicines. For the i'll
a baked apple is easy Of
digestion and always ap
petizing. AS a dessert
nothing can be more
wholesome than a good
annie we'll baked
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
Vogue of Laces Brings
Out MANY New STYLES

The vogue of laces has brought out
many new styles for both gowns and
lingerie, says a Paris fashion CORE
spondent in the New York Times. In
addition to the extremely popular me-
ITALICS are some charming silk mesh
founcings. They are dyed in all the
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
A Practical Apron

There is a certain smartness about
the new aprons which are already
stamped for embroidery and show a
new feature in the padded holder or
pin-cushion which buttons on over one
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

t h e din u er is
served at noon, a
hot soup is great
ly appreciated for
the night meal at
this season of the
year.
Celery with po-
tato or onion with
nOfafn n1olyac n
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
g THE
4 IKITCHEN
CABINE T -
l@. 1925. western Newspaper Union.)

Good talk is like good scenery
continuous, yet constantly varying,
and full of tho charm of novelty
and surprise.
An apple a day keeps the doctor
away.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24
A CHAPTER ON APPLES

The wholesome apple is such well
liked fruit that it needs no one to
ciuU itS proicoS fresh
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

lard or other fat containing no water.
If butter or margarine is used one
sixth more. fat or two tablespoonfuls
will be required. Place the fat in a
warm place until it becomes soft,
though not melted, so that it may be
combined easily with the sugar. This
Is just as satisfactory and much
quicker than the laborious method of
Dreaming together the cold fat and
sugar. After the fat and sugar have
been thoroughly combined stir in the
beaten egg yolks and add alternately
the dry ingredients, which have been
mixed and sifted together, and the
liquid. At the start add only small
quantity of liquid. Of. too much is
added, 1t dissolves the sugar, and the
fat separates into large masses that
must be recombined with the other in
gradients by beating, thus making use
less the work Of combining the fat and
sugar in the beginning.) Add the
fiavoring and fold in the well-beaten
egg whites. Drop small portions Of
the mixture on a creased baking sheet
and bake in moderately hot oven
(about 375 degrees Fahrenheit). This
amount makes about so cookies.
Crisp Cookies.
N cupful milk or W teaspoonful
less salt
cupfuls sifted teaspoonfuls
soft wheat -four baking powder
or cupfuls sugar
s1s cupfuls sifted eggs
hardwheat -four 3 teaspoonfuls
/ cupful fat (see havoring
preceding recipe)
Combine the ingredients in the same
way as for drop cookies. Roll the
dough thin, handling it no more than
necessary, cut it in any desired shapes,
and bake the cookies on a creased bak-
ing sheet in fairly hot oven (about
375 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit). In
stead of rolling out the dough it may
be chilled and sliced thinly. Whether
rolled or sliced, chilling the dough
makes it easier to handle. This amount
makes about 100 thin cookies.
Children love plain cookies cut in
fancy shapes, and if one makes cookies
often, it may pay to have number Of
animal or other interesting cutters on
hand. They are made of tin and are
relatively inexpensive.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

"Just One More Cookie, Grandma,
Please"
fruits may be mixed with the dough
or pressed into the tops Of the cookies
after they have been cut out. The
amounts used depend on individual
preferences.
Drop Cookies.
q cupful milk teaspoonfuls
4 cupfuls sifted baking powder
soft wheat -four IL cupfuls sugar
or " teaspoonful
81 cupfuls sifted salt
hard wheat -four teaspoonfuIs
q cupful fat havoring
eggs
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1925-12-24

A cream soup Is sufficiently nOurish-
ing to serve as the main dish. Where
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1925-08-16
CO.RNS

In one ninute-Iust that quiek-the pain 10
gone No treatment so safe, sure. healing.
thoroughly antiseptic and scientific In every
way as DR.. Scholl's Zino-pads. The results
ere p revelation At your druggist's or shoe
deaier'A Cost but a trihe.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1925-08-16
xeIde oEndIau1mefR

Maisie van Open spoke quietly:
I'm not selling, Count de Bar
sac," she said. "Now or ever.
Pm real glad to find you here for
two reasons. One is that I've
never seen a live Count before
The other is that it was precisely
a man with your name who is men,
toned in letter that my dad left
for me at Genoa. He told me to
beware of you"
The candid schoolgirl eyes
rested on de Barsac's face.
81 guess you'd better get back
to bed, Count" the American girl
said with calm compassion. "You
look rather patient on the only
doing nicely list"
De Barsac clenched his hands.
"You refuse to negotiate he
asked. His voice was savage.
These two schoolgirls, English and
American, had not reached the
stage of womanhood which he
knew so well how to deal with.
They left his Latin soul baffled
and helpless.
Maisie van Open put up n
gloved hand to stifle a yawn.
absolutely, Count" she drawl-
ed. Nov do go back to bed and
don't worry about business any
more"
De Barsac stood in the doorway.
His bruised face was ashen and
his eyes like dark jewels when he
turned to Judy and laughed.
"You think you have won, Judy
mine, eh?" he said. "You will 60
back to your interesting aunt and
uncle, and tell the story of your
adventures and victory at San