The Coconino sun., 1925-05-29

place IN LHe road That they were 3UOU
years before Christ and seem to be
proud of the fact they have not slip
ped backward much / never heard
one of the dragomen deny that he was
honest, but on the other hand never
heard any one accuse him of it.
The population of Cairo is about
100000, including some $4,000 Euro
peans 1t is a pot-pourrri of nations,
situated on the Nile upon which
Cleopatra used to float up and down
in a canoe with passel of blacks
holding up her sunshade to protect
her delicate saddle-colored complex
ion.
The natives still maintain the old
fashioned Mother Hubbard gown;
some wear shoes and many don't. The
variegated coloring of fezes or tar
bushes indicate class or race distinc-
tions. The red Shriner affair pre-
dominates and is worn by Moham-
medans, the ruling class. English
men in the government service also
wear the red fez.
The women of the poorer class wear
long black dresses with a veil. The
veil is kept in place by nose rest.
This nose rest sets between their eyes
and looks like two spoolS stuck to-
gether with a couple brass rings
around them. The better class of
women wear European clothes but af-
feet thin white gauze veil The
women are not much in evidence in
the streets. Their men folks have inn
pressed it on 'em that they are better
/Nff of lpiVo ol,'o
necessary, except while working in the
fields or toting bundle around on
their heads.
= Our observation of the men and
their exceedingly forward, insolent
manner toward unprotected foreign
women, inclines us to believe that
white women should not go about here
unattended.
1t is a great wonder that Cairo
continues to draw tourists. The
throngs of insulting beggars and per-
slstent peddlers is most annoying and
one can not step outside a hotel with
out being surrounded with a batch of
these gadflies.
Possibly this may give. you some
idea of the natives at Cairo. The eli
and hot. Except for the Nile delta,
which recently was put under irriga-
tion in a scientific way by the Eng
lish, the country surrounding is vast
desert upon which not single green
thing grows. 1t is shifting sand which
the wind blows about, covering up old
ruins, tombs and smaller monuments
that some cheap old khedive couldn't
build big enough to keep their head
above the drifts.
The citadel is located on Mokattam
cliffs, a Hill $50 feet high, and was
hailt mainly from stones brought fronl
the Gizek pyrami,s, for the lefensel
of the city, but about 805, along
came Mohanined Ali and jclked the
place fror., its builders, sll'tghtening
quite a number of those who did not
accept Ais ideas on the hereafter. A
beautiful view of Cairo, scattered
about over the plains below like a
pasteboard city, may be had from
here. Tie pyramids, some SIX miles
away, standing out in the desert
across the Nile, may be seen from
here
Near here is the Sultan Hassan, or
superb mosque, said to be one of the
most imposing mosques in existence.
The entrance is S5 feet high. The
mausoleum has dome $50 feet high
with no apparent pillars to support it
except the side walls of the massive
building. The walls are 10 or IL feet
thick, built of rough limestone. It's
barren, barn-like old warehouse.
There is nothing especially beautiful
about the dump but it is mainly noted
for its husky, burly appearance, and
what 1T cost past generations to build
it for the sultan. There are a few old
three-pound cannon balls sticking in
the sidewalks which Napoleon ordered
sent there with his compliments when
he attempted to take the place over.
After adding a few complimentary
scars to the place, Napoleon moved on.
The Mohammed Ali, or alabaster
mosque, is cracked up as the real
dope for beauty and is patronized by
the very best people in town. There
is a carpet within the place large
enough to cover the city park. 1t is
rich in color and design and probably
cost as much as two generations of
seven families are economically
worth, also probably physically. The
vast interior has wonderful dome
in the center and the whole overhead
is hung with thousands of lights which
are turned on only during certain fete
or ceremonial days.
Thepe isn't chair in the house.
The congregation squat and remain
squatted or humping their foreheads
on the great rug as the reader Of the
koran, or whatever book they use,
reads from the tall pulpit far above
the crowd. This alabaster affair was
commenced in 1924 and finished in
1857, from which it may be noted how
time and eternity merge in country
such as this.
Our solemn dragoman, Ali Abdel |
Gawadkirsh, then waltzed us up to al
Coptic church that was some ancient
old wreck. Through the vast barn
door we entered winding dirty alley, |
but before we could proceed far, a |
rubber-faced lady from within the
gates rushed up, showing an ancient
crooked stick with several spikes in !
the lower end. IT looked like "finish I" !