Evening star., 1925-10-25
Lusous Vevets Vie With Cleaning Metal in Evening Cohe

| Never before were materials blend
ed with such skill as in the making
| of evening gowns this year. Metallic
| lace or metallic brocade and velvet
| brocade-velvet and chiffon-velvet
| brocaded chiffon and chiffon-metallic
brocade and metal lace-all these are
| so cleverly welded together that there
seems to be no hard line to tell where
the one fabric begins and the other
ends.
Armholes are matters Of great i'm
portance on evening frocks this sea-
son. Following the general trend Of
fashion, bodices fit rather closely about
and over the shoulders. 1t Is no long
er smart to hang clothes upon our
backs like frocks on clothes hangers.
They must show a really nice mold
Ing and conformity to the lines of the
body. AT the same time arrnholes on
most of the evening frocks are fairly
large; are still fairly low under the
arms. There is seldom anything in
the way of drapery or other furbeloWs
to detract from the nice severity Of
this line of the armhole.
1t is interesting, therefore, to look
at any collection of new evening gowns
from the best dressmakers, just with
an eye to the armholes. They require
| somewhat more than the skill Of the
average amateur. In fact, the woman
| WHO IiidheS IleT own 1fOCRS 1luu
| this question of the armhole the most
difficult one to encounter in the eve-
ming frock this season. Very frequently
the armholes are simply finished with
a cording of the material with which
the gown is made. A lovely evening
frock of rose and gold brocade shows
armholes bound with cording which is
made entirely from the gold part of
the brocade-giving a neat gold line
around the arm.
| Following the example of Agnes of
Paris. some of our dressmakers are
outlining the armholes of evening
dresses with diamante trimming or
with line of beads or sequins. AS
| the armholes do not set up close
around the arm, there is no danger of
scratching the skin with this. This
trimming Is sometimes extended in
long loop at the under side of the arm
hole, and sometimes g. heavy tassel is
hung from the lowest point of the loop.
Once dressmakers used to allude
| glibly to evening shades, and in the
stores you found satins or velvets or
ed off by themselves. There was a
very distinct difference between such
| shades and other shades which were
| suitable for afternoon. and still others
] which were deemed suitable for morn
ing wear.
| Inc color line seems to be def
| nitely broken. The first surprise came
| a year ago, when women took to wear
| ing brown evening frocks with enthusi-
lasm and. moreover looked very charm
| ing in them. The old theorists had 1t
| that brown wouldn't do at all by arti-
| ficial light. Then women wore sport
| frocks OF soft shades of pink and
played golf and tennis in orchid or
| lavender.
| Every prominent dressmaker, of
| course, still retains certain preferences
| in this mdtter-certain colorS which
| he or she prefers for evening Per
haps no one would think of selecting
/ navy blue for evening Wear-though
even this may be attempted. You may
think of a few other lingering preju-
diCes-but for the most part you wear
any color you wish-anywhere, with
the general reservation that 1t seems
rather smarter not to wear bright
light colors in the daytime in town.
For the evening nothing Is too light
or too dark, too pale or too vivid in
color.
Gray has been chosen by some fash
ionable women for an evening gown or
two. This was a little unexpected. per.
haps. and of course will not become
generally copied. The new soft, gleam.
ing velvets look lovely in gray when
embellished with embroidery in silver
| thread or with silver or steel beads
! A dozen shades of yellow might be
found In the new evening gowns. They