Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1925-12-30

The prophets who leap before they
look have conjured up dire pictures of
the mode, hastily doubling in its tracks
and scurrying back toward straight
line tubularity as a result of the Paris
midseason showings, writes Paris
fashion correspondent in the New York
Herald-Tribune. AS an earnest of
this so-called reaction, they point TO
four salient features of the winter
openings-the decided modifying of
the hemline flare and the occasional
straight silhouette; the loosen, or
straight, bodice frequently replacing
the nodded species the sudden come
back of the one-piece dress, and its
evident challenge to the popular two
piece style; the unexpected popularity
OF black at Longchamp and Paris. On
the face of it, the return to the peren-
NAL mode of last year and several
years preceding sounds plausible
enough. In point of fact, nothing could
be further from the truth, and the on
ward march Of fashion is proceeding
calmly and undisturbed.
The original departure from simple
tubularity was commonly credited to
the hemline flare, because the hem
line flare was the first significant
change in the pre-war silhouette. There
is euphony and picturesqueness
about the phrase which made it the i'm
mediate slogan of the left wing dis
senters, who were then trying to lead
the mode from its placid ways. AS a
matter of fact, the hemline flare was
always more significant as a gesture
than as a style, and though the new
fashion cycle was inspired by it, it
was hardly based upon it. The dean
OF the new styles, it was inevitable
that it should be the first to pass, and
Its partial eclipse is evolution, not
devolution. In place of the hemline
flare there is coming a skirt intricacy
which will sometimes involve varying
degrees of distension, but whose claim
to smartness will rest less on the ia
nous staccato flare than on various
other treatments which will affect the
entire silhouette. Straight and simple
skirts are not approaching a renais-
sance, and the modes for late winter,
spring, Palm Beach, and the Riviera
will utterly preclude that ancient
theme from the ranks.
Concerning the Loose Bodice.
The nodded bodice, whose passing
also has been hastily decreed by ardent
reyivalists of the pencil silhouette, has
been replaced to some extent by
lOoser lines, which create straighter ef-
fects. Never as popular numerically
as the hemline flare, it's age is almost
as great, and its occasional displace-
ment is not surprising. At the midsea-
son showings in Paris the straight bod
ice was offered in fair numbers by
such eminent cOuturiers as Lanvin,
Patou, Jenny, Philippe ct CASTOR and
Lelong. Not, Of course, to the total
exclusion of the nodded lines, but at
least with sufficient strength and fire.
Quency to make it factor with a pos
sible future in the mode. The nodded
bodice was the companion piece of the
fiared hemline in its earlier days, and
the first description of the silhou-
cite which they portrayed in
variably coupled the two. No flare
was complete without its conforming
bodice, and the inverse proposition
was equally true. AS a consequence
the tempering of the flare should logi-
cally lead to q similar moderating of
the tight bodice, and to certain ex-
tent it has. Yet its future is debat-
able in the light of recent silhouette