San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-23
Manifold and DiverSeAre the
Variations of Slender Mode
Shorter Skirts, Elaborate Fabrics and the
Most Fanciful Trimmings Characterize
the New Costumes for Spring.

The most important develop
ment of the spring mode is the
responsibility which it has passed
on to the discriminative taste Of
the fashionable woman. 1t is a
paradox that in a season when the
fundamental concept - the sill
houette-is practically unchanged
and almost dogmatically adhered
to there should be so many dis
tinctive and individual types of
frock. Indeed, so varied are the
creations of the different Paris
designers that only the stout wo-
man is left beyond the pale -
and even for her there is hope.
All of which means that the
uniformity of styles characteristic
of last winter has given way to a
wide diversity of design, and ev-
cry woman must look to her indi-
eidual laurels. Self-expression,
long the feminist ideal, has come
to be a fact in realms Of Fashion
at least for the moment.
Scarf and pleat, flounce and tunic,
tailored suit and frilly dress, all
belong in the picture-even the
mode has succumbed to the liber-
alism of an easy age.
The models on today's page.
sketched at the Chanel opening,
exclusively for this paper, Illus
trate some of the most interesting
methods of celebrating the
straight silhouette. While each
bears the unmistakable hallmark
Of this French designer, none is
too bizarre to be worn this side
the Atlantic.
The spiral cascading tunic and
the scarf make their joint appear
ance in the first sketch atop the
page. This evening dress is de-
veloped in black Chantilly lace
and is featured by touch that is
distinctively Chanel - the bias
decolletage at the back.
Deep Pink Bands Encircle
A Black Mousseline Gown.
Wing-like panels which fall
from the shoulders at the back
and are attached to the dress its
full length characterize a dinner
gown of black and deep pink
mousseline de sole. The sole touch
of color is a bank of the pink
chiffon which extends through the
wings of the panels at low
placed waistline. This model is
illustrated on the second figure a.
the top of the page.
A pleated panel and a flounce
which is not only pleated but tier
ed distinguish the afternoon dress
of biege crepe de Chine pictured
in the upper right hand section.
Another notable feature on this
frock is the fairly short skirt,
which is cut in circular effect
across the front only. An attrac-
tive coat to complete this costume
is three-quarter length model of
brown and yellow cashmere =
the ensemble note being carried
out In the circular cut of the coat
as well as in the color harmony.
The second figure at the bot
tom Of the page is red cash
mere sports dress which is subject
to various interesting manipula-
tions, each dependent on the occa-
sion. The jumper bodice is cut
away in bib-like effect revealing
underneath double vest of white
crepe de Chine which may be
worn either open or closed. When
open the outer portion falls back
in rolling revers and reveals an
inner vest which buttons its entire
length. When closed the revers
re brought together to fasten in
shirt bosom effect. The slender
silhouette and the short skirt, both
invariable in the sports costume,
are emphasized in this model,
which, like many of Channels
sports dresses, appears to be. in
one piece, although it is, as a
matter of fact, two-piece affair.
The long, tight sleeves are set in
exactly at the shoulder line, thus
giving a very trim effect. The
back of the bodice reveals a Shout
der yoke cut in deep point at
the center.
Plain and Printed Silks
Combine in a Double Coat.