The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-01-08
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By sans. CHHl1TnNn ynHDnRICx
 Househell Effteieney Expert

Dy MRS. CHH1Dx4NA NbMOssAOn
 Househela Effieieney Expert
 Probably no other merchandising opportunity is so sincerely worth while. to the shopper as the univer- sally offered January sais." These occasions represent genuine reduc- .tions. in thes wide group of articles known as white goods" and there is scarcely 4a housewife who does not need . new stable cloth. extra nap kins, additional towels or similar ar- ticles to.inoreass the stock in her linen closet. s'
 Before purchasing, the consumer would do we'll to refresh her mem- orys on the few simple distinctions and tests between linen, cotton and various mixed goods. Both linen and cotton are vegetable, flores from a plant, but each presents a different appearaf1ce under the microscope; linen flores are long and cylindrical, tapering to . point with fine coarse lines It intervals. giving the appear 'ancs of Joint: while cotton looks like a smooth. flat band which Is twisted. The stronger and more uni- form the twist, the greater itS elas- ticity and, duality. N
 To test linen we use both the eye and the sense of touch, for . common test is to 'feer' the weight of linen as 1t Is raised in the hand--the heavier the weight the more genuine 1t is. Moisture spreads rapidly on linen and soon dries, hut Q drop of water on cotton will not be absorbed for some regular in appearance Gas clearly shown in . crash or coarse linen tow eling), while cotton Is more exact and even in. twist, If you break the threads in . piece of goods quickly acrosss the cotton threads will usual- ly curl up, while flax threads semain smooth.
 or sizing or dressing in white materi- als, for frequently all cotton; or mixed material, fs made to appear like linen because 1t fs heavily dressed" with starch or other sub stance to make 1t appear very shiny and of heavy weight. While real linen has a gloss peculiar to itself, it is not sively. It is cheaper qualities which look shiny--but this shine disappears at the first washing, leaving the true fabric and weave fully exposed Crushing f1 the hand will also lndi- cate the difference between linen and all or partly cotton goods. Quality linen Is soft and yielding, yet elastic and tough and is not Stiff and crackly.
 Another point Is the manner of bleaching-that linen which Is grass bleached" is more satisfactory than the material which is chemically bleached. One can ride for miles Tn Ireland and see linen spread endlessly to bleach on the grass. "Unbleached linens'' are less expensive to buy be- cause of less loss to manufacture 25 per cent of the weight is lost Tn the bleaching process.
 In selecting table linens it Is well to bear in mind that while a cloth having border and distinct pattern Is more attractive, that for the same weight, it is cheaper to buy the ma terial by the yard. In selecting "damask" material see that it has strong bounded thread. Double da- mask is the most beautiful with the pattern showing more distinctly on the wrong side of the cloth. Therc is a definite number of threads to the arch in damask, as 1S0 threads for f.Aditm quality. 226 threads for fines Hality, which can be noted by a "weAvers glass" or should at least be ipSuired about from the salesman An IN over pattern is preferable to one h plain bands because in iron- ing the design is likely to become out of shape.
 In many cases where one can pick up a good table cloth which has nc napkins in a set. a g0od plan Is to buy separate napkins with q polka dot design, which harmonize With eiaborate. Select napkins which arc not too large unless one has 3 very formal table. A very large napkin such as 26x2s inches, Is awkward and suitable onlN for the formal dtn- ner; a much better size for average use Is 22x22 Inches, and for break. fast or luncheon 14xi4 is . practlcai size.
 What is called mercerized goods is always cotton. Mercsrizing Is . pro- cess of dipping cotton yarn Into solution of strong soda while the yarn is under great tension. It IS then washed with Q dilute acid Tsis process gives 6 lLStrous appearance and makes the yarn feel silky, 1t also permits it to take dye readily. But the consumer should always know that what is featured as mercerlzed damask" is really cotton and never linen. Cotton may also be treated 10 a calendering process of pressing per tween rollers to produce 9 smootp glazed surface. This pressing peH- mits various watered and moire or silk effects, which. alas, soon wash out and wear away.
 Since table linen is something we do not buy frequently and since it is an article that must stand the hard est wear of stain. grease and laun- dry. we should certainly choose 1t with extreme care, being sure that we are buying quality material NaIx give long service.