Evening star., 1924-11-30
|AMUNDSEN DESCRIBES SLEDGE TRIP ON ALASKA,S
| LONGEST AND MOST DIFFICULT u. S. MAIL ROUTE
Dogs Negotiate Hard Ter.
rain Bet,Ueen Point
BarrOtp and Nome.
Praise for Presbyterian
Mission Work among
NatiUes of Territory.
BY CAPT. ROALD AMUNDsEN.

Ice conditions were exceptionally
bad on the coast Of Alaska in 1922.
so it happened that we had to land
at Wainwright, a small Eskimo set
tement so miles to the southwest of
Point Barrow, which was our point
of destination. Now wainwright is
not bad place at all. The traders
bring In all possible kinds of goods
to their small stations and you can
buy everything from chewing gum
to the latest and most up-to-date
firearms. But l want to tell you
right away that you had better fill
your pocketbook well before you
enter one of the stores.
The prices are simply amazing
Thanks to my dear friend, Capt. c.
T. Pedersen of the trading schooner
Nanuk. l fortunately did not have
to pay many calls at the store. But
even If the prices are high, 1t is
feeling of comfort to know that you
can get what you want. Another
advantage wainwright offers is an un-
limited supply of coal If you are
particular you can make a trip to the
mines and within a very short time
stock up fully for the whole Winter
with coal of excellent quality but IL
you are less particular you can pick
up from the beach all you need.
Picks Up Plenty Coal.
In the Summer of 1923, after a
little breeze on shore, l filled so huge
sacks in less than no time and could
easily have filed twice that number
When We had built our house.
TOUR miles to the west of tie village,
got up the necessary stock of fresh
meat and filled our bunkers with
coal, started to think of the easiest
touch with the wireless. There was
only one way-to follow the mail
carrier. The mail was scheduled to
leave Point Barrow on November Is
and it was highly important for me
to reach this place ahead Of time so
l eould come to an understanding
with the native carrier. Mr.. Jim
alien mead of the municipal trading
post at Wainright, is, like most
Northerners, a man with a big heart
AS soon as l had mentioned my wish
TO MIN he offered me the use of his
most wonderful team of dogs. The
Alien dogs are known all along the
coast. They are well trained and
wen taken care of in every way
As soon as the snow had settled
suff1ciently / set out from Wainr;sht
In company with Mr.. Aliens broth
er-in-law. highly educated native,
and team OF 13 dogs. The first
trip IN the Winter is always a hard
one. The going Is heavy from lack
OF snow in many places and 1 was
not very fit after the long STAY on
board ship. The tundra consists OF
enormous ridges and unless you are
used to this kind of ground from
boyhood the travelling will always
be hard.
Gsins Hard for Novice.
The breaking In of a man who
never set foot on that kind of ground
before Is eKasperating. You can be
as good a marathon runner as you
may. but 1T does you no good in this
kind OF going.
Mr.. Brown, the head of the trad
fn9 station on Point Barrow, re-
ceived me very kindly and arranged
for me so I could follow the mail
carrier when he was ready to leave,
which was set at November Is. Poin.
Barrow Is Alaskas northernmost
point. Coming there for the first
time you would think 1t a very large
settlement, but that is not so. Only
"reminiscences from time past by
Barrow was years ago a very pros
porous place. The whaling ships
from San Francisco came up in great
numbers and hunted the precious
oo~ ~Aedu, d "HdlS IndC pd1u ltS cap
turer nearly $4,000. And not only
the whalers participated in this hunt.
The natives in all kinds of boats
competed. Happy days! Now a stray
whale is captured from time to time
by the natives more on account of
the blubber than anything else. Sub
stitutes have now taken place of
the real thing and whale bones are
no more in demand
hospital are now the main features
Of the place. And all residents praise
the work the Presbyterian mission
has done here. ] am no believer in
that kind Of mission which teaches
the natives to look down on their
own housework in order to take up
prayers, hymns. etc. / take my hat
of to'a mission which. like the Presby-
terian In Point Barrow, does some
thing of real value to the natives.
The hospital erected by the mission
a few years ago Is in itself a beau
uful monument to true Christianity.
So modern and up-to-date Is this
wonderful place that If you were
taken there blindfolded and without
any idea of where you were you
might think you had been taken to
a little modern hospital around New
York DR.. Crust, both doctor and
missionary. conducted it in a most
admirable way.
Prepares For Long Trip.
After a most agreeable stay ] left
this hospital place two days later. 1t
was then decided that the mail car
rier, Ned, should stop at my house on
his way. On November Is got word
from Wainwright that Ned had arrived
from Point Barrow, would stay there
overnight and then call for me at my
house the next day. November 10
was a beautiful day. clear and calm.
The temperature, at 81 degrees, was just
fine for sleeping. A faint redish light
on the eastern horizon indicated the
position Of the sun, telling one she
very soon would leave this quarter
and not return until in January some
time. /. however, was going to race
her, and IL everything went as plan
ned I ought to come out as good
number one. Ned arrived at sched-
uled time. I did not have much Of an
OUTFIT few pieces of bacon, sugar,