The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1924-11-15

gray mousseIine, laid In fine plaits,
with a narrow ribbon panel down the
'front.' outlined with two rows of small
buttons The close neckline is fin
ished with a turnover collar Of white
faille. and the sleeves, straight and
full, are Ornamented at the bottom
with needIework and gathered into a
narrow wrist cuff.
Street Costumes in New Weaves.
For the first winter cold, some of
the most prominent designers in Paris
show stunning street costumes In new
weayes-velours de Smyrne, loutre,
ratine. sepia, kasha cloth and the Ro-
der materials. Some Of these, quite
heavily fur-trlmmed, are in one piece,
tunic or coat frocks, with walstcOat or
underblouse giving the becoming touch
Of softness
Others emphasize the type of dress
that Is all the rage, from the very best
quality created by artists Of prestige
to the most faithful copy modestly
done. This Is not single frock but
the vogue Of the hour. the ensemble
Worth, Patou, Doeuillet. Caret, Ger
maine, Lanvin, Doucet, Renee, Lelong,
In fact all of the well-known cou-
turiers are doing important things In
ensemble costumes in which fur is in
troduced as q conspicuous and distin-
gushing part
In this type Of dress the new varie-
ties Of fur are much used-the foxes
dyed in lovely shades of brown, vel
low, gray, taupe and bIuG-gray; baby
leopard ana leopard cat, squirrel tails,
chinchiIla and many more that are
separately described from time 70
time. These fur trimmings are not
always added in the conventional form
Of bands or borders, but are often
used. as Berthe has illustrated in sew
eral smart coat frock models as collar,
cuffs and pocket embelIishing a plain
cloth. to which is added also belt Of
bright scarlet and gilt illuminated
leather.
Modish street dress is now invaria-
bly In ensemble fOrm-One-piece froek,
with a coat In material Of sufficient
weight 70 meet the needs of the sea
SON. lined with the same goods as the
dress. or with something which Is in
frodnced ia some harmonizing manner.
The advantages Of a costume OF this
description are many. and 1t answers
for many occasions bec0mingly and
economically.
II was the Partisan woman--the
most successful economist Of all In the
matter Of cIothes-who, after the war,
devised Al attire in which she could
anpear properly gowned at any hour
81 the day and in any place. One saw
bar n the Bois during the morning at
lnncheOn. ct tea, at some informal
nIace for dinner and at the play, wear
~ the same outfit. But-attention =
always her couture. her gloves. her
scarf we're fresh.
Now one sees scarcely any other
tvne az dress. and women this side Of
he water were never more artsticaily
ana more smartly gowned than they
are this season.
Use FUR to Match Coat
Among the advance winter models,
When heavier wraps In cloth and fur
viii ~ required. the same one-piece
Gown Il shown. some Of the models
esving a touch Of fur to match the
cat or Its trimmings, for such occa-
s,ars rs demand dress Of some for
mality. Delightful combinations q
color are accomplished In some OF
tbese AZ the best creators Illustrate
'l1 Toncpt presents an ultra chic little
-. = ,,o fashionable apple-green EN-
q. crepe, with seven-eighths
b ,anrth straightIine coat Of wool
s .seS deeper. The coat Is severely
nlaln- with tight sleeves. and y but
TONED down the front from collar to
Nam with large dun buttons. Light
hrown fox forms the collar. cuffs and
border around the bottom