The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-01-29
Contrasts Show Surprises $ In
 New Modes
By FRANCES MUNRO

trast shown in the past season, mostly By the use of fur of one shade on coats or dresses of another Embroideries, too, have often surprised us by their departure in tone from the costumes which they trim. But this feature of has not been emphasized as it is about to be. More cubtle colorings or all bright colored things have been most popular, but as usual there is a decided change to create, new interest. The colors for the coming season are not the main things, although they count so much but we shall see fresh out break of combinations of different ma terials that have not, been used to- gethet before. Then, too, trimmings will take on new and original forms to get, us ready for the spring openings. Such things must not come all at once, or they will scare us by such q change. Instead, the designers are cleveriy plac- ing here and there little touches of the materials and colors which will .later on be most prevalent.
 Who ever heard of organdie pipings on heavy wool frocks, or pale summery tone worked out in winter-weight ma terials? This fad of dyeing heavy ma terials in the shades only connected with warm weather clothes is fast be- coming an accepted idea. There are mostly to be seen dresses of one and two piece models carried out in flannel which ranges through all the most deli cate pastel tones. pale blues, lemon yellows, orange, light tan, lavender and brick dust Then one cannot overlook all the new variations of green which are appearing under a multitude of trade names..
 Dark And Light. 3,
 A favorite manner of trimming very dark dresses is by piping and edging with many folds of different colored organdies. Blue> green, white and yell low folds are placed together with the white band of widest width and this very decorative banding then < starts tucking itself away in al the seams and Jopenihgs of dark blue wOolen dress. It forms collor. cuffs, pocket tops and lines the inside edges of the panels. Similar in feeling is the dress illus trated. This is of deep brown velvet and is made with three tiers and afi underskirt. The bodice is low-waisted and features long,, tight sleeves and a small square neckline. The trimming in this case is grosgrain ribbon in the palest shades of canary yellow, with the outside ribbon of the group being orange.
 The banding formed by the five lay
 Gf, s,.hf 1sttn down the entire length of the frock at the side. It loops up at each tier showing the darker under side of the ribbons The belt is merely a straight band of the same ribbons, ended off quite demurely at the side with smart little flat bow. There are organdie collar and cuffs, of very pale yellow. These are edged with narrow pipings of the brown velvet. giving q most un- usual finishing touch where one would naturally expect to see the bands of ribbon repeated This unexpectedness is truly welcome stunt as it creates standard ,that puts to shame the dresses where ohe glance shows every thing. ..
 Another Striking Example.
 Another represents one more example of the combination of dark background with light trimming. It is u perfectly simple street frock cut on straight close-fitting lines with long. rather tight sleeves. The shawl collar was the inspiration for the flattering wrap around collar which makes q lovely curve about the throat and ends at the waistline. The belt begins just where the collar leaves off and does not go all the way around but ends at the -.I z Il. .l,. girlish dress is rich royal blue fan mel. That is very dark, but more live ly and youthful than navy blue. The trimming is most unexpected on frock of this kind and therefore more de- |]ightful. It is ermine and silver em- broidery. The two things are com bined with the touch of all artist and wisdom is also shown by the original placing of the different stuffs. No fur ateall is used on the belt, but just q shimmering line of silver stitching.
 Combinations Of Materials.
 In almost all of the new three-piece suits the use of different types of ma terials is the most important thing. The coat and bottom of the skirt are usually of the same texture, but when the coat is removed there is most attractive surprise to be seen. Instead of something plain there is delicately beaded tunic or brocaded overblolise. These are separate from the skirt and give the effect of the tier. As all the coats of the new suits are three-quarter length, there is plenty of space to hide the most. luxurious of blouses. Quite often the blouse takes on the sem blance of an adorable Chinese jacket incrusted with golden dragons and braided in true Oriental manner. The 7 collars are true to type-litte straight, upstanding affairs buttoned in front. The silhouette of these coats is also typical The bodice is narrow and then there is sudden flare out from the hips. One attractive note of the new suits is their adaptability for so many uses, owing to the different types of hlnuses which can be worn with