The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-02-21
Chinese Styles In New Spring
 Suits
By FRANCES MUNRO

 lections of dresses, suits and coats there is no more decided departure from the past season than the strong em- phasis on things Chinese. It is truly appropriate for spring, as every design brings to mind sunshine and opening flowers. At once we think of warm, cheerful colors with all the infinite charm of fresh, lovely spring-intense blues of the sky and violets, rich gold of sunshine and daffodils and dream troubling greens that are almost too vivid and delicious. A fitting tribute, to be sure, to the most wonderful sea son of the year is the glad array of brilliant glowing shades which herald in the new clothes.
 In subtle contrast to springs fresh- ness is the allure and age-old sophis- tication of Oriental design. The names of the colors alone bring to mind in cense laden luxury, terms like Manchu. Mandarin. Ming, henna, almond and powder blue; the rich tones of lacquer gleaming in vermillion and strange green and the most brilliant black. Gold and copper and silver are used in com bination with the bright colors in the forms of embroideries and richly braid ed designs. Gold flecked patterns on deep, amazing blue are at once remi- niscent of the sparkle of sunshine on happy waters. Silver on blacks creates midnight skies. and dull copper threads winding in lacy design over the surface of jade green coat are the trees in their first spring garments.
 The Chinese Silhouette
 One might rhaDsOdize forever on the beauties of Chinese colors, but 1t is equally important to speak of the in- fluence on the actual line and cut or the new models. Foremost among the direct adaptations is the Chinese col lar and the mandarin coat. The collar is the little outstanding kind which can be either close about the throat or edging wide neckline. The collar always opens with q small slit in the center of the front. whether the neck line be wide or narrow. Fabric, fur and combinations of heavily braided stuff or bands of embroidery are used t0 construct these collars. We see them on nearly everything. Separate blouses are built around this as the main motif with lines and patterns radiating from the little neckband in all sorts of fantastic designs. Coats, too. feature this type of collar, often fur-lined. The suits and frocks are not without them. Tubular dresses especially look most attractive when topped off by the upstanding band, which carries out perfectly the feel ing of slimness and straightness which is characteristic of them. An other type of frock which is ire quently seen with this collar is the one-piece silk affair that boasts enor- nous peasant sleeves. These are just naturally born to Haunt the most gor- geous embroideries, employing every method of handwork, machine em- broidery, beads. metal threading and different forms of braids. Dresses with circular yokes are more typi- cally Chinese and carry out the cor rect atmosphere.
 No Fastening for The Coats
 Coats really must be of mandarin style to be quite in mode. That is. the lines must not cross but fall straight. No more tied-at-the-side coats just yet. There is an obvious lack of any fastening whatever to most of the coats. You fold them about you if you must, but to be in keeping with the idea you should let them fall as they wish.
 Spring coats are of utmost import ance and all that goes to make them what they are should be considered and thought about The materials are more delicate than heretofore. No rough, shaggy material but soft, firm stuffs of dull but glowing texture. There are great many velvets, broadcloths, crepes and the smoother woolen fabrics with a pile surface. sy aIr lxy designers to form striking effects, as its finish is so appropriate as a back ground for r9etal embroidery. The heavy silk crepes in flat weave will be used later on in the spring as the materal will be subsantial yet cool.
 There are interesting treatments in the handling of designs on the coats Some have it all outside, some have 1t all inside, and others share the glory in both places, so that it will be just effective when the coat is open or thrown over the chair as it is when worn closed. This idea of versatility is often found in the unique way the coats are lined. You really can wear them inside out, as the Things are so beautiful. The same material but in contrasting shades is used inside or else the same tone in contrasting materials gives the inter- esting touch.
 Three.Piece Suits
 As lovely as spring itself are the three-piecc suits with their shorter mandarin coats, their little collars, either on the coat or on the dress or on both. long coat, richly enough embroidered to be formal evening wrap. completely covers an equally charming frock. The dress beneath re- peats the gold of the embroidery and has it's blouse almost entirely decorated with it. Tho ,colors are black and jade green velvet, topped off with a beaver collar. There are alternating stripes of the two colors to make the blouse, which is quite sleeveless except for the merest bands of embroidered green with tiny black edges.
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