The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-05-18
asElion Notes At. Capital And
 Elsewhere

| WASHINGTON, May 1.-The mere man, and the unsophisticated maiden aunt from the country, may believe there is little change in fashion since this time last year, just because the chemise gown holds it's own with the cloche, and mannish tailored suits but the best dressed women ali the country over know every line. and al- most every color of 1923 suffers by com parison with the summer modes of 1924. For example, the chemise frock Mrs. Nicholas Longworth wore to q Sunday breakfast at Friendship and fashion able noon wedding in a straight line, was in a new fine serge of dark blue, covered from throat to hem in a totally new treatment of embroidery. Geometrical figures in graduated scale were worked out in several tones of French blue, with delicate threads of white and of black to emphasize the de- sign, which goes in circles round the figure.
 The neck line is much more like the old Dutch neck than the passing bat teau, while the sleeves are long, in bell shape at the wrist. Furthermore, this chic frock fits without pleat. or gather and is without sash or girdle.
 Another sign of the times is the flounce. Several new frocks Appeared at last weeks garden frolics, slim and straight to the knee or an inch or two beyond, then flowing in a circular flounce eight, ten or twelve inches deep. YouRg Mrs. Davidson, who was former ly Miss Betty Hanna, is particularly partial to the new line which some mo dists call the Spanish flounce. Some times the circular flounce which is ap- piled without fullness has a contracting band of color on the edge-or even a tiny frill-all of which indicates a re- turn of ruffles on summer frocks.
 The swinging panel is also with us in new form. Mrs. Scott Throop, al- ways abreast of the fashion, and just as chic and pretty as when she was Miss Rebecca Wilmer and reigning belle, is wearing a black satin afternoon frock suggestive of the directoire influence. with broad panels on each side of a straight and narrow skirt The panels are embroidered in silver in rather large motifs nearer the hem than the hip with the silver decoration also appearing low on the front of the skirt. This gown shows the straight plain back that is one of the signs by which you may know the gown of the moment.
 Even ribbon sashes which never disap- pear entirely from summer wardrobes south of the Mason and Dixon line, are now tied in front or at the side, never at the back.
 Among the dowagers the trend of the day IS just as pronounced as with the brides or the young matrons.
 Mrs. Dewey or, as she likes to be call ed, Mrs. George Dewey, to emphasize the name of her famous husband, was too ill to have her usual celberation in honor of the anniversary of the victory of Manila Bay-but received few close friends in particularly smart frock in tune with the spring of 1924 and the dignity of its wearer. This was heavy corded silk of taupe shade, on semi coat lines, opening from waist to ankle over satin skirt of the same shade.
 The satin was several plain, but the corded silk was embroidered down each side in large detached motifs of fine steel beads, with the slender, petal-like designs emphasized by line of cut jet in the center of the larger petals.
 Delicate steel tracery and touches of cut jet also decorated the front of the bodice-which opened coat fashion over vestee of lace-and marked the sleeves just above the elbows whence they took on additional fullness to be brought into band at the wrist-this being finished in lace cuff to match the vestee.
 Mrs. Gillett, whom no one could con slider dowager even though a proud grandmother, is wearing a street dress in much the same taupe shade as Mrs. Dewey, both costumes being undoubted- ly of imported material if not direct from Paris maker.
 Mrs. Gillett's costume is straight but not narrow, with a jabot drapery ap- bearing at one side. With this, Mrs. Gillett wears round but not extreme ly close hat of black straw.
 Although the small hat still claims first place in smart millinery, it is Nqot accepted by many of the best dressed women Of the capital who, like the Speakers wife, refuse to sacrifice dig nity and fitness to an edict of Dame Fashion-or the persuasians of the most important Imported south of New York.
 One of the notably smart coat suits $s8g$P ASs======== ==--=9SSSR