Evening star., 1924-03-09

turning our gaze downward. We
could look across into clouds which
lay at some underlined distance be-
hind the northeast shoulder, a clear
indication that we were only a little,
If any. below its level.
Pumori. an imposing icebound pyra-
mid, $4,000 feet high. I sought At hrst
in vain. So far were we above 1t
that it had sunk into an insignificant
little ice hump by the side Of the
Rongbuk glacier. Most OF the other
landmarks were blotted out by masses
Of oninous. yellow-hued clouds swept
from the west In the wake of an an
cry storm wind.
The point we reached is unmistak-
able even from afar. We were stand
ing on a little rocky ledge. just inside
an inverted V of snow. Immediately
below the great belt OF reddish-yel-
low rock which cleaves its way al
most horizontally through the other
wise Rreenish-black slabs OF the
mountain. Though 1.700 feet below,
we were we'll within half a mile OF
the summit. so close. indeed, that We
could distinguish individual stones on
a little patch OF scree lying just un-
derneath the highest point.
Ours were truly the tortures OF Tan
talus, for. weak from hunger and ex-
hausted by that nightmare struggle
for life in our high camp. we were In
no fit condition to proceed. Indeed,
/ knew that il we were to persist IN
climbing on. even il only for another
500 feet, We should not both get back
alive.
The decision to retreat once taken,
no time was lost. and. fearing lest
another accidental Interruption in the
oxygen supply might lead to a slip
on the part Of either of US, we roped
together.
1t was midday. At first we re-
turned in our tracks, but later found
better going by aiming to strike the
ridge between the northeast shoulder
and the North Col at point above
where we had left 1t In the morning,
Progress was more rapid, though
great caution was still necessary
shortly after 2 pm. We struck the
ridge and there reduced our burdens
to a minimum by dumping four oxy-
gen cylinders.
The place will be easily recognized
by future explorers; those four CYL
inders are perched against a rock AT
the head of the one and only large
snow-filled couloir running right up
from the head Of the East Rongbuk
glacier to the ridge.
y X i =
THE clear weather was gone. We
l. plunged down the easy, broken
rocks through thick mists driven past
us from the west by a violent wind
For one small mercy we were thank
ful-no snow fell. We reached our
high camp In barely half an hour, and
such are the vagaries of Everests
moods that in this short time the
wind had practically dropped.
Tejbir lay snugly wrapped up in
all three sleeping-bags, sleeping the
deep sleep Of exhaustion. Hearing
the voices Of tho porters on their
way up to bring down our kit. we
woke him up. telling him to await
their arrival and to 90 down with
them. Bruce and then proceeded on
our way, met the ascending porters
and passed on. greatly cheered by
their bright welcomes and encourag-
ing smiles.
But the long descent, coming as II
10 90 - ~I a ,so ryr
soon began to find out our weakness
We were deplorably tired and could
no longer move ahead with our ac-
customed vigor. Knees did not bend
and unbend as required. At. times
they gave way altogether and forced
US. staggering. to- sit down. But
eventually we reached the broken
SHOWS Of the North Col. and arrived
in camp there at Z Pm.
A craving. for food, to the lack OF
which our weakness was mainly due
was all that animated US. Hot tes
and tin Of spaghetti were soon
forthcoming and even this little
nourishment refreshed, US and re.
newed our. strength to such an extent
that three-quarters Of an, hour. later
we were ready to set OF for Camp III
An Invaluable addition TO our little
party was Capt Noel the indefatig-
able photographer of the expedition
who had already spent four days
and three nights Oh the North Col.
He formed our rear guard and nur.ed
us safely down the steep snow and
t. .ycpas. npto thA syvnc~x aA~>a -
sin of the glacier below. Before $50
pm. only forty miuutss after isavins
the col. ~ reaehsd .Ca0p III. ainss