Evening star., 1924-08-17
BY DARCY WEATHERBE.

million dollars may appeal to
the vanity of some men. as In
d;cating the vaule placed upon
their persons by others. But 1t
Ia far from an enviable situation. At
least so I discovered a few months
ago when I fell into the hands OF
barbarous brigands in the province OF
Yunnan. southwestern China.
1t had long been my desire to travel
across China, following the adven-
turous overland route through wild
and, to me- romantic regions untouch-
ed by railroads and other evidence Of
Western civilization. I determined to
make this trip in the course OF my
return to Peking. despite the earnest
warnings of friends, who pointed out
the dangers to be run by Europeans
and the cruelties to which they had
been subjected by the marauders q.
Chinese Tibet
Discriminating at Rangoon, I toos
train to Mandalay, and thence travel
ed up the Irrawaddy River to Bhamo.
Thence my route led me to Mondam
(Three-B Basket World Huts) in Yum.
nan. From Wor1dam I travelled across
the Yuragan Pass at an altitude OF
$4,000 feet and then northward to
Atum-tzo. which is near the border
between the provinces Of Yunnan and
Szechwan.
Onward T marched to Yakalo in
southern Chinese Tibet, where l dis
covered that my proposed route via
Ratang was entirely closed by Chinese
bandits and Tibetan revolutionartes.
This was my first setback-an annoy
ing one. But 1 set forth again few
days later. intending to travel north
westward to Gartok in Markham Tin
Kan or southeastern Tibet). and
thence northward.
Unfortunately. I was stopped at
Getoding, and told that I should have
to wait there for permission to pro-
ceed from the Kalon Lama at Chamdo,
the official next below the Dalai Lama
day. and then decided that, as 1t might
take months for me to hear from
Chamdo. there was nothing ieft for
me to do but to return through the
Yunnan province.
Therefore, l set out from Getoding
for the long trek southwark. l again
passed through Yakalo and Atun-tzo,
and later reached the French missior
at Tzechong. From Tzechong to Talif0
is a journey that normally occupies
two weeks or more. IL one does not
halt en- route. I spend four days In
travelling from Tzechong to Weisting,
where l halted for three days at the
Protestant mission. 1t was necessary
at this place to change my mules and
also to procure an armed escort. South
of Weisting one enters the brigand-
istrate provided me with four militia
soldiers, so-called. In reality these
men were merely village coolies who
had been provided with uniforms and
rifles for the occasion.
We had a very hard journey for
the next three days, as the upper
Yangtze River was in violent flood
and, in many places. we had to make
detours over impossible looking trails
at 1000 or more feet above the river.
The scenery, in places, was magnif-
icent and awe-inspiring: but 1 am
afraid that it was rather lost on me,
for I was most anxious, at this stage
of my travels, to reach Talifu as
quickly as possible.
Continuing our journey we stopped
one day for luncheon. and to rest the
mules. at a place called Chioho (pro-
nounced "Ju Ho), and I noticed that
my brave" guides were busily en-.
gagged in cleaning their rifles. 1t ap-
peared that they had heard that there
were many tufei (bandits) in this
neighborhood. but they did not know
their exact locality; neither did !. We
pushed on in the afternoon, hoping
to reach the fairly large town of
Chienchouan-c Chou by that evening.
This place Is about three or four
days march north Of Talifu.
A BOUT o'clock that afternoon, W.
"A were suddenly attacked by
large band of brigands, who came
running across the paddy fields from
a big village, a quarter of q mile
from the road. 1t was perfectly use-
less for us to attempt to make our
Ma f~~ <hAy y,ASs -
not good for more than a walking
pace: and. in any case, my baggage
could not have been saved. Personally,
it did not occur to me that the brig
ands desired anything but my money,
guns. and baggage.
They opened fire upon us from a
distance of $50 yards. and kept firing
at us till they were almost at point
blank range. Their craftsmanship
ceptionally bad. as there were about
fifty Of them shooting at US. and al
though l heard many bullets striking
the tree behind US, yet neither I nor
my mule was touched. One OF my
escorts was killed. one was shot
through the stomach, and another
was captured close to me. The other
man of my escort managed to escape
into the hills, as also did my small
I
me from Burma, and my three mule
teers.
The brigands hit me two or three
times with the butts of their rifles,
and then tore open by clothes and
pockets. Most Of them appeared to
be very excited and the worse for
drink. After searching me, they led
me across the paddy-f fields to their
temporary stronghold in large
temple.
On my arrival there ! discovered
that the band Of brigands was much
more numerous than I had at first
supposed. They searched through
only part of my baggage and gen.
orally appeared to be a most igno-
rant lot. They did not seem to un-
derstand the value of English bank
notes or Indian rupee notes. Of which
there were good many in my at
but took my silver and gold coins.
They also annexed my revolver and
field glasses. but were not interested
in any of my instruments or even
in my camera. Fortunately. they did
not open the bag containing my shot
gun and rifle.
That night I slept on some dirty
boards in the temple. being closely
guarded by some looking.
opium smoking brigands. whose RI
fles were practically touching my
ribs all through the long night. The
place reeked with the rank smell Of
cooking and was heavy with opium
fumes. I had had a very long and
firing day. however. and managed to
sleep we'll.
Next morning they sent of mes
sengers to Talifu with their terms
for my release. As they did not seem
to know how to get their letter de.
livered, / volunteered to inclose 1t
with 1affar feay, ynvunff