The broad ax., 1924-08-23

models. These are built for the most
part on incOmpIex plans. though the
latest importations illustrate many
new features, indicating quite plainly
the direction IN which the fashion tide
will set at the opening Of the coming
season.
The printed crepes and silks are
very modish In the straight tunic over
q close skirt Of contrasting color, or
outlined with a band Of plain goods.
This model. for which the woman Of
the slender silhouette has a passion, 10
particularly happy when done In the
silks Of bold pattern, notably the con-
ventional palm leaf and the other de-
signs that are among this years nov
elites.
In the draped models there is fol-
lowing OF whims and moods, with the
fullness drawn forward to the front, to
be caught directly in the middle front,
hanging lower than the hem Of the
gown, and with fiounces, straight or
circular; godets, scarf draperIes,
sashes. girdles and plated or faring
skirts. Apparently several styles, great
~ diversified. are being presented, as
II to sense In advance the popular
choice and establish mode.
All Of these and other designs are
attractively shown In models OF much
originality and style. demonstrating
the values Of the new materials. For
che onn-vFona ~. 4.,,,g. N..ool- -. 49,.
ing and all-day utility the eponge Ia
cotton or silk or a mixture. made In
checks, stripes and plain goods, is a
novelty that has taken rather strongly.
Ratine. In silk, cotton or silk and
wool, Is another new weave. rough in
finish, loosely woven and smart, espe-
cially when It Is made into a sports or
beach frock
Rich Formal Gowns.
In the more formal gowns the en-
broidered silks and fat crepes, en-
broidered solid. are exceedingly hand
some, and are 80 costly that one such
creation in wardrobe IN cherished
and reserved for gala occasions. Ben
galine, all silk, or silk and wool, Is an
other revival OF an old-time favorite,
Of which some stunning French models
are built, with simplicity Of lines. soft,
scant drapery and a splash, band or
motif Of colorful needlework These
are charming in the gentle shades,
beige, maize, gray, powder blue, against
which the crewls SO much used In peas
ant embroidery make striking note.
Reverting to the sheer frock. the up-
to-date version Of the organdle, there
are new vOiles OF gossamer IIghtness,
on which are printed the most enchant-
ing patterns Of flowers, butterflies,
birds and many another fantasy. These
have something Of the sheer beauty OF
organdie but lack stiffness and NAV
be beautifully draped or aounced,
though the elaborate designs are
shown to best advantage when they
are gathered or slightly draped.
The qualifying appellation Of "chif-
fon" Is attached to many Of the LATEST
types Of thin dress goods. There are
chiffon vOile, crepe chiffon, chiffon
cloth and chiffon. Some are printed in
delicate, beautifully colored patterns:
some are plain or shaded in rainbow
ttnts Or gradations OF one color.
Flock dot muslin Il really q dotted
swiss, woven In many wash coIors,"
and the English prints are the real
novelty Of the year. These are In
prim, modest patterns. invariably small
and geometric. In black and white.
gray and white. violet or blue and
white, scarlet and beige. Their being
hand-blocked Is a guarantee Of the
durability OF their colors.
The craze for hand-blOcked lndelIbly
printed cottons Is well illustrated N
the India prints. which are sold by the
yard and might easily be mistaken FOR
curtains or bed coverings. They ara
oriental In pattern and riotous In col
ors blended and assorted with tina
canny SKIN OF an ancient art. Some Of
these are reproductions or the printed
spreads and hapgiDgs which several of
the more important shops have import
ed. and they are unique and amusing
as dress makings.
u at least q score OF years there has
not been more beauty and artistic
value In dress materials and design
than this season has presented.