The circle banner. [volume] (Circle, Mont.) 1914-1939, 1924-03-21
THE HOTBED; HOW
TO MAKE 1T
BY F. M. HARRINGTON

HOrticulturiSt, Montana State Colleg
"HE HOTBED should be conven
iently located near water an
n where it can have as much bene
fit from sunlight as possible and b.
sheltered from cold winds, particu
1arly from the north. The soutl
side of a building, board fence o.
hedge is generally suitable. Do no
locate where drainage water will col
Iect in the pit as water soaked man
ure will not heat.
Hotbeds are generally made two
and half feet deep, which is usually
sufficient to last for six to eight
weeks. The length and width depend
upon the requirements. If only one
or two sash are used it is well to ex-
tend pit one foot beyond framework
to insure more uniform tempera-
lures.
Sash for hotbeds can be made or
can be purchased through dealers.
The most desirable sash should not
have more than one cross bar and
some prefer them without any. Es-
pecially treated cloth or paper may
be used as substitute for glass but
does not give as good results, parti-
cularly during cold weather. If
there is some old sash about the
place, the hotbed may be made to
conform to the size of the sash.
1.-THE framework of the hotbed
should extend six inches above the
ground on one side and II inches on
the other, although for tall growing
plants which will have a comparative
Iy long growing period in the hotbed
the height should be increased to 10
and 16 inches. Different tempera-
lures may be maintained in the hot
bed by partitioning off sections of
the hotbed and placing board un-
der the sash.
1.-The preparation of manure for
the hotbed should begin two or three
weeks before the seed is planted.
Fresh horse manure is most desirable
and should be piled at a convenient
place near the hotbed. When the
pile begins to heat, particularly if |
the heating is confined to one place, |
it should be turned and the ferment-
ing manure thoroughly mixed into the
pile. Sometimes several turnings are
necessary before fermentation is uni |
form through the pile, but ordinarily
one or two turnings are enough. To
prevent too violent heating a little
water may be added, or little straw
may be mixed with the manure or the
manure may be spread out on the
ground If the manure is very rich
a little straw is advisable.
When the manure has heated uni
formly it should be placed in the hot
bed pit and tramped down. The pit
should be filled to within six inches
of the top. A little hot water poured
over the manure will hasten heating.
The top six inches of the pit should
be filled with good soil, or if flats
are to be used, three inches of soil
is enough. Dirt may be banked
around the frame of the hotbed as
further protection against cold and
to provide drainage.
"After the manure and soil has e
been placed in the pit, sash should e
be put in position and allowed to /
stand for several days until the first c
high temperatures have receded to e
about 80 or IS degrees, at which k
time seed may be planted. Proper s
of the hotbed is very i'm I
portant because if too much moisture a
accumulates in the air under the G.
warm conditions, disease known as d
damping off is likely to prove trou- q
blesome. For plants requiring great n
er warmth, such as tomatoes and p
peppers, day temperatures of SIS to p
rs degrees are best, while harder p
plants prefer temperatures of SO to
so degrees. During cold nights the A.
notbed should be covered. Old blan- U
kets, sacks sewed together or straw
make good covering material"