Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1924-11-14
AN ARAB CHRISTIANS.
(For the Shenandoah HERALD

I
| Tunis, the strange little white city
| set down around shallow bay of the
Mediterranean, with background 'oi
soft, blue hills-is fascinating place
in which to wander at all times, but on
October 18th, the Arab Christmas
day, when the two American destroyers
dale" and ''Billingsley" were in
port Tunis, at lesst Arab Tunis, is in
| its glory
To imagine the setting correctly,
you must think of everything that is
! the exact opposite of what makes up
our Christmas celebration at home.
Think of humid heat, not clear cold,
| think of tall date palms instead of
ihemlocks, think of flowers instead of
iholly, think of tall, dark Arabs in long
| flowing robes and yelled turbans, in-
stead of our cheerful young people
home from school and college.
| We were sitting on the balcony of
our hotel, on one of the main streets
of the European quarter of Tunis,
waiting for the heat to grow little
more bearable before we walked over
to ARAB town" to shop in the native
"souks" or bazaars, and to see a
little of the celebration-when there
was sudden commotion in the crowd
blow us-people rose quickly, the men
removed their hats. and an excited
murmmur spread quickly. 1.-THE Beyn
1.-THE Bey!" Sure enough, the ruler
under France) of Tunisia, was driviDg]
through the streets, on his way tol
morship in the Mosques For on Oc-
toqer 18th, the Bey as well as all his
subjects, must go the the Mosque and
pray.
With great Gathering of horses
hoofs, jingling of arms and banners,
and glittering of gold braid, the caval- |
cade approached. First, an advance
guard of cavalry in the usual Tunisian
uniform--khaki colord boomers and
blouse, with wide red sash and a |
crimson fez, then body-guard of men
in uniforms of cream color and blue,
glittering with brass buttons and with
long, curved scinitars cleaning |
wickedly over their shoulders. Sur
rounded by these gentle Individuals
was an open carriage, in which rode
three dignified old gentlemen. dressed
in uniforms of dark blue and gold-the
Beg and his cousin and uncle. I'm
fortunately, they are not labelled, so
we have to stare intently and rudelyI
at all three, to be- sure we see the
Bey himself. In other carriages follow
the sons of the Bey, and the other i'm
mediate relatives OF course there
were no ladies in the procession,
women are still virtual slaves over
here and such proceeding would be
unthinkable; the women never leaveI
their homes from one years end to
another. One little remark is indica-
tive of the way the Tunisians regard
women.
Some of the American officers, &C.
companied by several French officers
and their charming wives, visited the
''holy'' city of Kaironan, to see the
religious professions and the Mosques.
Somewhat the their surprise the en-
tire party was admitted to the Mosque
they asked why ladies could enter the
Mosques of the holy city, and not the
ones in Tunis-"why" explained the
guide, when the French took overl
Tunisia they SO thoroughly defiledl |
these Mosques. that even the defile
ment of woman S presence does not |
matter %
When the procession had passed it |
was cool enough to go to Arab town, |
so we walked slowly along the crowd |
ed streets to the old city wall, and the
huge gate, which is now called THE
Gate of France" enter, and find
ourselves in little plaza, from which
opens perfect labyrinth of narrow
little twisting streets. Here the noise
is almost deafening, little donkeys,
laden with firewood, vegetables, or
water-jars, are braying hideously,
their masters are shouting at them,
church bells are changing, street mu-
sicians are playing mournful chants,
guides are imploring you to accept
their services, hideous beggars are
whining-several little stands are
heaped high with little Christmas cakes
of fried dough, and dirty Arab boys
hold them out to you on the end of a
stick. or course the jasmine vendors
are everywhere, no real Arab would
think of choosing food if he had to
choose between a dinner and his eve-
ming bunch of jasmine buds. just at
dusk the vendors appear, carrying on
their heads flat wicker trays heaped
with jasmine flowers, folded in a grape
leaf. Every Arab buys a cluster of
the lovely waxy flowers, and tucks
them into his turban, over his ear.
Fortunately, we have been here be-
fore. so we pay no attention to the
guides, and ss little as possible to the
noise and the dirt. We walk boldly
down one of the little streets, simply a
lane between two unbroken rows of
little open-faced shops and find our
way to the store of Mohammed Gassam.
| Gassam is sitting in front of his little
store as we come down the street,
keeping an eye on two beautiful
Bokhara rugs he has hung outside the
door-but when he sees US he rises
quickly to his feet and we shake hands
heartily. Gassam is particular friend
of ours because we are Americans.
Are we not compatriots 81 the wonder
full Monsieur Rexingram who bought
most of the costumes for bis big movie.
1.-THE Sheik" in Gassam's little store?
We are indeed. 50 Gassam lets us see
| his most Cherished possession. A letter
from Rer Ingram, expressing his
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