davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1924-02-24

average means to take on the we'd
ding trappings of a princess i'm
plies, likewise, that royal bridal
clothes have become much simpIified
since those long-aEo days when 1t
was proudly said that bride was SO
richly dressed that it was impossible
to tell the color of her robe for the
jewels that covered it.
One royal bride this winter stamp
ed with her approvalsthe use of sill
yer ornament on the white wedding
gown, for silver bugles were used in
connection with pearls in the narrow
landings that ran lengthwiSe of the
gown. Her court train was likewise
of silver cloth veiled with silver lace.
Another trick that appeals to some
of the seasons brides is to go to
some old portrait for inspiration in
choosing ones gown. An old ItaI-
ian painting gave inspiration for a
wide-skirted, very picturesque gown
worn recently, and in order to satisfy
the whim of the bride the gold bro
cade which was used with the satin
had to be imported from Italy.
Then, Of course, there is the trick
of wearing a wedding gown worn
by some once-lovely grandmother
or great-grandmother This, like the
fad for wearing replicas of royal
wedding gowns appeals very strong
Evening star., 1924-02-24

large white or silver lily 10 some
times placed. Tho train hangs a. part
Of the sheath from the left side Of
the back.
BY way Of variety lace IL some
times used at the neckline or . deli
cate design Of crystal or pearl bead
embroidery Is used about tho center
OF the gown.
In book on good form published
only fourteen years ago tho rule is
laid down that q wedding dress must
never be short and that It must be
high-necked always. "The sleeves
may be long or elbow length as may
be fashionable At the time. Gloves
will. Of course, meet short sleeves"
The decollete effect Is taboo Is very
bad form," and even transparent
yokes are regarded as extreme.
+ =
NOV the really igh-necked or col
Jared wedding gown would be
looked upon as a sort Of monstrosity.
Though extreme decoliete Is un-
usual, no one is surprised, much less
shocked. at tho wedding gown that
shows the shoulders. Often French
brides wear long tight sleeves, but
sleeveless wedding gowns are not un-
Evening star., 1924-02-24
Making Fish=Nets.

TT was a native of Bergen, in Nor
way. who invented hand fish-net
making machine. This new invention
has proved to be a boon to the fisher
men OF the country in making and
repairing THAR nets.
The weight Of the machine is about
forty-five pounds. The spool carry
ing tho cord is of ordinary construc-
tion, and can easily be flied by hand.
although a winder is supplied with
each machine. The knot made by the
machine is the same as that formed
in hand net-making, is absolutely
firm and in the opinion of the ex-
perts is beautifully formed.
Near the long steel rod the most
conspicuous feature of the machine.
is mechanism to keep the rows OF
meshes parallel during the construc-
ton of the net, and this, combined
with the excellence of the hand
made knot. has the effect of giving
the net a good stretch and hang. The
machine is easily operated by means
of a crank handle on the fywheei.
There is no limit to the length Of
the net which can be made on the
machine, and 400 meshes wide can
be produced. The arm which carries
the row of meshes as they are formed
can be extended, and thus a broader
width of net can be formed The
whole outfit can be placed on the
market for about 500. 1t can be
worked at a rate to tie from sixty
to eighty knots per minute, or eight
times as fast as the speediest hand
Evening star., 1924-02-24
BIZ FRANK G. CARPENTER.

IN SOFIA, Bulgaria.
HE first sight that greeted my
eyes upon coming into Sofia,
the capital Of Bulgaria, was a
gang of twenty-five husky bronzed-
faced young men dressed in light
gray uniforms standing on the
top of train Of box cars unloading
cord wood. Other men, dressed the
same way, were catching the sticks
as they were thrown out and arrang-
ing them in piles by the track. That
was my first glimpse of the great
labor army of this live industrial
country, where almost every one owns
a bit of land and practically all work
for their living. In this case they
were working for the state, represent
ing tens of thousands Of the young
men and young women who by the
law OF the land have to enter the
ranks and give six, eight or ten
months work to the government.
But first let me cram into a nut
shell the necessary facts one needs
to understand this remarkable labor
situation. In the first place, the land
is Bulgaria. 1t is situated here in
tho heart 70 the new kingdom Of
Jugoslavia, north Of Greece, south of
Rumania, which is separated from it
by the Danube, and west Of Turkey.
Sofa, where I am writing, is about
800 miles west Of Constantinople.
The kingdom is as big as Virginia
or Kentucky, with as many people as
those two states. 1t is two-thirds the
size OF New England. and its popula-
tion. in round numbers, is just about
Evening star., 1924-02-24
bulgaria Drafts Citizens for Labor Nations Public Work

How are times in Bulgaria:
sThey are growing better. We
have had a dificult situation. We
have had a long series OF wars and
our military expenses have been
great. At the end of the world war
we were loaded with debt in the way
of reparations and everything was
disorganized, but as soon as the
treaties At Paris were concluded we
began to put our house in order and
to pay what debts we could. IL we
are given q fair show we will soon
get back on our feet and regain the
old position that Bulgaria has held
in the past. All that we ask is that
we have our rights as awarded US
by the treaty. We want real out
let to the Aegean sea and not norni-
nal one. The Bulgarians outside the
kingdom also should have the right
to fair treatment from the foreign
governments. They ought to have
the right to establish their own
schools and churches and to be equal
with all other citizens under the
law"
what shall I say to America about
Bulgaria. your e1cellency2
"All we want is the truth. You
may paint our bad traits as well as
our good ones. We are, of course,
anxious to be thought well OF by
America, but all we ask is that in
International councils where the voice
Of the United States is heard you
should study all questions concerning
our country, and if upon investiga-
ton you find that our claims are just
you should raise your voice in our
favor"
(fOarpeuter's World Travels, Copyright, 1924
Evening star., 1924-02-24
boys who faced the guns received
only 81 a day and their board

boys who faced the guns received
only 81 a day and their board.
The author OF these labor laws and
the man who pushed them into action
was one Of the most remarkable char
acters who have played their parts
on the stage of Balkan politics dur
ing the past generation. His name is
Stambouliski. He was an educated
peasant, who was active in politics
before the war, and who when it
ended became the popular leader OF
the peasants. He was man OF great
ability and much common sense, but
~ his power grow he lost his head,
and many think he was plotting to
usurp the throne or to have himself
elected dictator or president Of the
government, in which all power
should be in the hands Of the farm
ers. Stambouliski strove to excite
feeling among the peasants against
town and city, boasting that he would
level Sofia to the ground. calling it
another Sodom and Gomorrah, and
saying that it was inhabited by specu-
lators and non-producers. He re-
moved the old police force and gov
ernment officials and put peasants in
their places. After his assassination
something like 100000, mostly in
foreign currency, was found in his
villa, and It is believed that he had
planned to use this in q revolution
which should make him the king.
The premier Of Bulgaria, Alexander
TsankoR, who has succeeded Stam-
houliski, is q man OF far different
character. He has q fine education,
is al author Of note, and has been a
professor OF political economy for
more than a score Of years in the Uni
versity Of Sofia He Is tho soul of
conservatism and Of sound, common
sense. He was made premier by the
conservative elements. who arranged
tho coup detat which accidentally re-
suited In the killing Of St2mbouliski,
and he is for the advancement Of city
and country as we'll I have Just had
. talk with him In tho ONCE Of the
council Of ministers. and have been
impressed with his plans for tho fu-
t,aro Of Bulgaria.
. Let me ton you how he looks. Alex
ander Tsankon is a big man, with a
large, handsome, semi-bald head, a
high and broad forehead. serious blue
eyes and a strong and prominent
nose. He dresses in business cloth es,
and today vore . negiigs shirt and
collar fastened by two small pearl
buttons over. q blue polka dot neck
tie: He talked in . low tone, and was
fre> In saying just what he thought
The conversation was Interpreted by
DR.. Kissimo6, An o0ctal Of the for
eign ONCE, who studied At Robert Col
lego when DR.. PanaFeton, the present
minister from Bulgaria to Washing
ton, was ono Of the professors.
seRUIGARIA is In = stable condi-
tion," said DR.. Tsanko6 In re-
sponse to my question There has
never been any real antagonism be-
tween the people Of country and town
except that aFtidciAlly created by
demagoguea. More than fon~afths
of our population arc peasants. and
the most prominent mcn Of the cities
Evening star., 1924-02-24

and Of the government are men who
have come from the farm villages
The peasants are naturally serious
and conservative. They know they
need the towns, and I am sure we
shall have no further strife between
these two elements"
How about your land reform sys-
tenn? Will it be changed?" asked.
mo. The laws as enacted by the
government are good. They are based
upon the principle that no man
should have more land than he can
actually work, and we have fixed the
limit Of this amount at thirty hec-
tares, or seventy-five acEes. Thae is
far above the average holding OF our
farmers. We have arranged to buy
all the land in excess Of that amount
and to divide the surplus among those
who have no land at ALL They will
pay for the land at fair market
price, and the large holders will be
fairly compensated for what is taken
away"
What will be done as to the forced
labor laws?'
They have been retained, and the
system has been reorganized so that
the administration is less costly and
productive of better results. In the
past we have lost money on this labor
movement, but we think the principle
is right, and are convinced that it will
mako for cheaper administration of
the government and the more rapid
upbuilding Of city and country. 1t
will also weld our people into one
harmonious whole. The labor laws
tend to break down class distinctions
and to make every man. woman and
child realize that he or she is a part
Of the state.''
Evening star., 1924-02-24
.RubberSeed Oil.
REPORT has been ma

A REPORT has been made by the
agricultural department Of the
Federated Malay States on the oil
fro mthe seeds of rubber trees as a
substitute for linseed oil. The oil is
said to be of high quality, to require
but little refining, and to come from
waste product that is available in
great quantity and that is easy to
collect.
Experiments with a consignment of
thirty tons of seeds sent to England
resulted i'll a yield of $3.50 a ton for
the oil and $40 ton for the residual
cake. Linseed oil at that time was
selling for $500 a ton.
Evening star., 1924-02-24
American Girl Plans Picturesque Rament for Her

ly to tho American bride possibly
because 1t IL not every American girl
who caA boast an ancestral wedding
gown.
A bride recently brought to light
the wedding gown Of her great-great-
grandmother. who was married when
the empire mode prevailed. 1t was
very scant and straight. with tiny
elbow sleeves and a round, low neck.
Save for the high waist line this gown
OF long ago was quite In the picture.
About the same time another bride
went to the altar in the gown her
grandmother had worn when the
second empire mode prevailed-the
civil war period in our own country.
And with some slight alterations
this was brought into line with tho
oounant wedding gown Of the pres
ent mode.
THERE you have the situation at
present-you may choose between
the gown that Is straight and scant
and fairly short and the gown that is
bouffant In the extreme. If you
choose the latter, be sure that the
church aisle is wide. and then have
a dress rehearsal to teach the BRIDE
grom-to-be not to tread too near to
the folds Of your Empress Eugene
skirt.
When Gloria Gould was married
this winter the fullness OF her enor-
mously wide skirt was further in
4
f1ounces. 1t would have satisfied the
demands Of any civil war belle. Her
bridesmaids. too, wore exaggeratedly
bouffant frocks of taffeta silk with
widely distended hips.
With the wide skirt the bodice Is.
Of course, quite close fitting, and
usually joined to the fullness Of the
skirt not much below the normal
watstline. This bouffant type Of
wedding gown seems to be gaining
favor with the younger women. VIII
feel species of thrill in wearing q
gown so distinctly unlike their
straight scant skirts Of every day.
The French girl-or rather her
mother. who probably has more to
say about it than the American
mother-is more conventional in the
selection Of her wedding gown. That
is, she is more apt to follow the lead
Of other fashionable brides OF the
season, feeling that a wedding cere-
nony is hardly an appropriate occa-
sion for high flights in costume de-
signing. There is something a tribe
monotonous about the French brides
Of the season. so many Of whom have
worn the same type of frock, a type
of frock that will be modified in no
essentials for many OF the French
brides Of the spring.
Worth's version OF this gown is a
straight unbelted sheath with bateau
neck and long, tight sleeves. There
is a slight draping at the hips, with
a cascade Of artificial white flowers
at the left side and a train hanging
from the low waistline. Sometimes
Of white satin, sometimes of silver
cloth, this gown seldom shows any
trimming.
The conventional wedding gown
from Madeleine Madeleine differs
not greatly from this. 1t is straight
and sheathlike, bateau-necked and
long g-sleeved. There Is a draping Of
material at the left side where a
Evening star., 1924-02-24

against the allies and lost, and conse-
Quently is loaded with debt to pay
reparations.
WHEN the war closed Bulgaria
w found herself, to use the talk Of
the streets, down on her uppers. The
people had been lighting years before
the world war began. and during that
terrible struggle 100000 Of the best
men were killed. The government
needed labor to aid in rebuilding the
country, and it passed the labor laws
to which I have referred, enlistinE as
a live working force all the young
men as they reach the age of twenty
and all the young women at the age
Of sixteen. At these ages every boy
and girl who has not been in military
service must give one term OF six to
twelve months to the state. The six
months term Is for the girls and the
eight or ten months term Is for the
boys. After this service has been
rendered they rank on equal terms
with the rest Of the population, and
are subject only to the short labor
term annually which every man,
woman and child in the country is
supposed to perform. The ages for
the short term rank all the way from
eight years old In the case Of chill
dren up to nifty in the case Of the
grown-ups, and the service is from
eight to ten days every year once a
year at tho times the government Of
tho city, town or district may call
upon them.
Do you realize what that means?
laws for the United States and they
should go into force tomorrow. Every
man, woman and child. out in the
country and In every village, city and
town, would be subject to eight or
ten days work as the state directs.
Tho little children might be given
dust rags and wash rags and put to
cleaning tho school houses, picking
the stones from the school yard or
doing as much ~ they could, however
little that might be, for the commr-
nifty. The older children might aid In
whitewashinE the school fences. paint
ing the walls, washing the windows,
planting trees to beautify tho town
VI IuO SO1uIAyt @4tCy AhA6 ~ S0i
water for the gangs of men and
women who are doing heavier work.
The grown-ups who arc physically
able could be called upon to excavste
for public buildings, to make new
roads, to work on tho railways. and
to do anything under the sun that
the state might direct for the i'm
provement Of the country and people.
The work IL Of . wide range and
it takes in all classes. For instance
DR.. Constantine Stephanove. a Eradu-
ate Of Yale, a professor Of philology
In the university here, the author OF
the best Bulgarian and English die
tionary and of books on economic
matters, tells me that his ten days
this year were spent In making exca.
vations for an addition to one Of the
state educational institutions, and
that he had twenty-five college boy.
under him. They used picks and
shovels for eight hours every day, and
enjoyed the work more than theil
Evening star., 1924-02-24

studies. Fifty other college boys
aided in rebuilding the theater. which
was destroyed by . fire. and others
helped lay q street railway. Others
did all sorts OF manual labor. l know
Of bankers daughter Of twelve who
spent part Of her allotted time last
month washing the school windows
and the rest in sewing for the state.
know Of boys who are aiding in bind
Ing books, planting trees and clean
ing the parks Of their towns.
The government now has the work
SO arranged that tho whole country
gets q thorough housecleaning once a
year by this universal conscription,
and the business is so systematized
that the eight or ten day forces will
aid largely in making public improve
ments.
The eight or twelve months labor
to which all young men have to sub
nit upon reaching the age Of twenty
or when older, if they have not al
ready performed military service, is
q valuable industrial asset. The men
who come Of age every year number
SO, 900 or more, and there must be an
equal number Of young women who
reach the age Of sixteen. The' girls
give only six months, and their work
is chiefly in hospitals, libraries,
churches and schools. They do sew
ing and other work In the govern
ment factories. Tho young men are
divided into groups Of twenty or
twenty-five each. and are handled just
as though they belonged to an army.
They live in barracks and have their
clothing and food free. They go out
to work in military order, and they
march back at the end Of the day to
their quarters. :,
/. = + 4:
WHILE motoring across country
i w yesterday I saw q gang OF 200
Of these labor soldiers returning from
their job Of making the grade for Q
new railroad. They were young men
of twenty to twenty-five years Of age,
dressed in gray woolen clothes, woven
and tailored In the government fac
tories, which are worked By men thus
conscriptsd. Their shoes were made
by the government, but I am not
sure that tho iong-handled scoop
SAOVSlS &uQ plCAS Wu1~u ShOS hS0 W.
their shoulders were not imported.
The boys were we'll set UP and
muscular, and their faces were as
brown as freshly tanned leather. made
SO by the intense sun Of this region.
All were in perfect health. and they
walked as though they were start
ing to work rather. than returning
from it. Their captains told me they
were In fine condition, and that. al
though they had put in eight hours
that day, they would welcome . dance
of two hours or moro for the eve
ming.
The work for such men is OF every
description. 1t includes road build
ing, bridge building, the making OF
railways and terminals, employment
in the factories, stone quarrieS and
forests, and the draining and dikins
Of swamp and food lands. 1t in
! cludes fishing and the taking care OF
animals. as wen as work which is
Evening star., 1924-02-24

intellectual and artistic. If a man
can do sculpture or painting, he may
be put to ornamenting the public
buildings, or If we'll educated he may
be made a school teacher or assigned
to scientific work. The young
architect helps. in planning the gov
eminent buildings, the young engi-
neer is put on docks and harbors, the
author writes books or pamphlets.
and every man, freely speaking. is
studied and placed where he can be
Of most good.
saw a dozen university girls In tho
foreign ohaee. The daughter Of a
rich man, a college graduate, who
speaks five or six languages, is now
translating some Of our scientific re-
ports for tho officials here. She has
been on the Job four months, and she
likes it so we'll that she may con-
tinue on at the end Of the six months
for which she is drafted. There Is no
distinction of class, the rich and the
poor, the ignorant and the educated,
often laboring side by side.
I have talked with a number Of
oficials in charge Of this work. They
tell me it is popular. and that they
have very few slackers. There is =
provision by which, upon the pay
ment Of something like $12o to 500
or in Bulgarian money from $4,000
leva to 10000 leva, according to the
wealth OF tho man, ono can be ex-
empted from the labor. but Of the
tens of thousands who have been
drafted so far less than 500 have
bought themselves OF, and the sys-
tenn is coming to be considered one
involving the patriotism Of the citi-
zen. 1t is q great civic educator. It
forces upon every man, woman or
child the fact that he or she is a
part Of the government, and makes
them interested in tho state the, COM
munity and In all sorts Of public well
fare.
It is bringing the people closer to-
gether, aiding in the lsveling OF the
various classes, and teach all better
methods Of work "A we'll as obedience
to the law. Among the new work
for girls is tho teaching OF house,
keeping and sewing in connection
With the industrial schools Home
industries which are very largo here
arc being cultivated, and the system
is educational to i much greater ex-
tent than one would suppose. Tho
only women exempted from work are
the Mohammedans. who are freed on
religious grounds. --
4 = X x
THERE is another factor in the
1 situation which may be very i'm
portAnt in the ease Of war. The peo-
pie arc beinE educated in their duty
to do all kinds Of work for the gov
ernment. and in the wars OF the fu-
ture this labor army will be drafted
in just tho same way as those who
carry the guns and 90 into the
trenches. Had the United States had
some such system We should not have
been forced to pay our army OF home
workers from SO to $40 day for
building encampments, making NUM-
tions and other safe Jobs while the
Evening star., 1924-02-24
BY MARY MARSHALL.

TO dress like princess on ones
wedding day is no mere fig
ure of speech nowadays. Sew
eral times this winter promi-
nent young American girls have
chosen for their bridal attire gowns
the exact counterpart of those worn
by the seasons royal brides in Europe.
It all may go to show that we Aneri-
cans, many OF US. have a rather soft
place in our hearts for royalty.
That IT is possible for any girl of
Evening star., 1924-02-24

The spring bride will have prac-
tically the same materials to select
from as the winter bride. Silver
cloth will still be appropriate, though
Evening star., 1924-02-24


Revout Present Goernm A tn Premier
Evening star., 1924-02-24

usual and the long white glove is
by no means a necessity. The lace
veil sufficiently drapes the bare arm.
When long gloves arc worn with the
Evening star., 1924-02-24

sleeveless wedding gown they leave
enough bare arm above to show that
we have outgrown the old notion that
Sleeves and gloves must meet"
Evening star., 1924-02-24

or crepe wrought with fine white
crystal or pearl beading.
It will still go nip and tuck be-
tween the bouffant wedding gown
and the gown that is straight and
scant.
(C1pyrisht, 184.)
Evening star., 1924-02-24

hardly so for the warm weather
wedding. One winter bride wore a
gown edged lavishIy with white er-
mine-a trimming that would be a
little out of the picture for the Easter
bride. !
It is safe to say that the Ameri-
can brides Of the spring will wear
the dressmakers suggest, and the
caprice of a spring bride is a rather
uncertain quantity. But it is safe
enough to say that as the weeks
pass fewer silver cloth wedding
gowns will be ordered, while there
will be an increased use of satin