Atlanta tri-weekly journal. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1920-19??, 1924-01-05
.oEA[GKIV MARKET
IS LEFT FLAT BY
TREND Of STYLES
BY FREDERIC j. HAsKIN

completely as was the petticoat a
few wears ago. Over 10000 fine fur
pelts have been turned back to the
government in the past few months
by fur auctioneers, who have found
it impossible to dispose of them.
Consequently, the department of
commerce. which gives so much val.
liable advice to American business,
is now reversing the usual procedure
and asking American business how
4 to revive the sealskin market. A
4 committee of prominent merchants
rom various parts of the country
las been called by Secretary Hoover
O investigate and report upon all
phases of the handling and market
Ilg of these furs.
Among those asked to assist in
making suggestions are such we'll
known mercantile authorities as
george B. Johnson, Of the r. H.
*NVhite company, Boston; c, E. AL
Z. brecht, of Albrecht & Sons, st. Paul
John Shedd. of Marshall Field & Co.,
Chicago; Franklin N. Brewer, of the
Wanamaker store, Philadelphia
Jesse I. Strauss, of the r. H. Macy
company. New York City, and Os-
wold Knaugh, of the National Bu'
reau of Economic Research, New
York City.
In recent years from 10000 to 35,-
900 sealskins have been taken annu-
ally by the natives of the islands,
In the employ of the government,
and sent to st. Louis to be dressed
and dyed and sold at auction. But
this year, owing to the dWindling de-
mand only 10000 skins were pre-
. pared Cor sale, and even these We're
spurned by the fur-buying public.
Only 1000 skins, at $50 per skin,
could be disposed of, and the rest
had to be returned to the govern
ment for storage.
AS this fur enterprise of Uncle
Sans is a special pet of the depart
~ ment of commerce, and of particu-
lar interest to the experts in the
bureau of fisheries, feminine fashion
is receiving much unfavorable criti-
cism in these offices of the govern
ment Mr.. Bower. of the bureau of
fisheries, for instance, while dis
claiming any actual knowledge o.
the situation, says it looks as if
women preferred quantity to quality
In furs. Alaska seal, he declares, is
fur of the highest quality, dur
able but soft as chiffon velvet and
ranking 100 per cent as fur values
are rated.
Otter Second to Seal
AS to durability all other skins
are graded down from the SEAL the
p only other skin that approaches it
in this respect being the otter. Rab-
bit, which is made into French seal,
Is about at the bottom of the list.
The so-called Hudson seal, which is
dyed muskrat, is much superior to
rabbit, but even it is FAR below the
standard of the real thing.
p "Some women" explained Mr..
Bower, "seem to prefer the inferior
skins because they wear out quickly
and can be thrown away as fashions
change. They don't want a garment
which is in perfectly good condition
after several years of wear"
At this juncture, the attractive
$tyoung secretary in Mr.. Bowers of
flee produced her coat as an illus
tration. 1t was a beautiful, lustrous
black garment as silky, and at the
! same time as thick, as a fine Chinese
rug. So far as an unframed OBJ
server could tell, there was not a
defect to mar the furry surface and
1t looked brand-new, but she declar-
led that this was the fourth winter
The coat had been in service. "And
his is otter" she added, (which if
~ LIllllS5 lelIlhS SeCUIlu W AldShd
eal."
The government, Mr. Bower went
IN to explain, got into the seal fur
usiness largely through accident
it'll the purchase of Alaska, years
10, it came into the possession OF
Prlbilof islands which are situat
in the Boring sea some 800 miles
the mainland of Alaska. The
up comprises five islands, known
st. Paul, St. George, Ottor island
rus island and Sea Lion island
on the rocky beaches and
er-strewn lodges OF the two
Islands, st. Paul and St
e, that 30 per cent of the fun
of the world congregate foi
Ing purposes. The seals seek
Stands in the spring and the
J are born there. Then they
away and are seen no more
the next year
hen the islands were first dis
bred by the Russians, an i'm
Eense seal herd existed, including
everal million animals. A terrific
laughter Of seals for furs started
llring the period of Russian owner
pip and continued for several wears
ter the United States acquired the
rrltory. The seals We're killed by
e thousands not only on the
ands but out in the open sea, go
10 and from the rookeries. This
Ter method, known as pelagic
Ellng, was extremely destructive
Ffhe pelagic sealers were chiefly
fnadians and Americans, at first
later on many Japanese alsC
gagged in the business. In add
n to their enormous catches. they
led many seals which could no
retrieved, and, still worse, from
TO 80 per cent of their catch con
ted OF female seals whose deatf
Folved the loss of their unborn
ps or the starvation Of newborn
infants on land
protected by Treaty
|ecognlzInS that these brutal and
tetul methods would soon resul
he extinction of the herd, the
cd states government finally as
Pa complete control of the sea
y, both on land and sea
gh d treaty entered into will
a, as owners and guardians O
cal herds, agreed to pay Grea
p and Japan each, for the re
fhment of their interest il
sealing, Is per cent of al
uent seal fur profits.
B, Uncle Sam became a fu1
ant, with absolute authority t
e the seal herd and marke
alskins to the best advantag,
parties concerned. The en-
/ was placed under the man
nt OF the secretary of com
who Immediately put a grouI
Intists TO work on the sea
As result of their rec
ations. a law was passed
prohibiting all killing of flu
the Pribilof islands for a ne
va years, with the excep
small number required a,
he natives. Under these re
the herd increased from