Evening star., 1924-09-03
SILK GOODS FINDING
MUCH BETTER SALE
Strife in China Unlikely to Be
Felt Here-WooIens
Also in Demand.
BY j. c. ROYLE.
Special Dispatch to The star.

Special Dispatch to The star.
NEW YORK. September Sine
civil strife which is now gong on
in China does not seem likely to nave
any extended effect on the SILK sltua-
tion in America even should the great
port of Shanghai be tied up by armed
conflict The better grades of Canton
silks are fairly strong in price, but
American manufacturers VIII pc
called on to face no serious shrink
age The Japanese varieties have
also shown marked firmness due In
part to unfavorable weather affecting
the mulberry trees in the island en-
pre But the real factor in the silk
situation is the improvement in de-
mand for manufactured goods.
Demand Much Improved.
This mas been. more pronounced in
the silk trade than III either the cot
ton or WOODEN industries. 1t has been
felt especially by broad silk makers
who's orders in some instances have
ncGessitated capacity operation of
thoir mills. The strike Of silk work
ers at Paterson over the number of
looms each worker is expected to look
after has been instrumental in keep
ing down output there. Although
about 1000 workers are said to have
gone back to work some mills still
are closed.
Mills that have specialized in fine
satins. failles and bengalines in all
silk or silk and wool mixtures are
in such demand that some mills have
been unable to I'LL orders. while the
call for CrepeS has been steady. The
causes which have produced this sit
uatiou have included better weather
selling conditions and other factors,
but some experts place special stress
-On color.
COlors Vital Factor.
Industry, they say. especially that
part OF il catering to women, is de-
pendent to Il great extent on style
changes for the market ability of
its goods. style of any garment or
fabric is dependent on three factors.
texture. life and color. Color. there
fore. has become as great question
as any other factor in textile pro-
duction. This fact has resulted in
development of color experts whose
jobs it is to analyze the world of
fashion and to deduce for industry
what the popular colors will be,
sometimes placing such information
in the hands of manufacturers a
year in advance.
Henri Creange. one of these an
alysts and art director of Cheney
Brothers, silk ma anufacturerS, out
lined to the writer today the color
factors which in his opinion will per-
nit merchants TO Correlate their
lines of women'S wear with fashions
demand i'll so far as color is con-
cerned:
The colors most in demand this Fall
are browns and coppers. then blacks,
then blacks and whites and finally
the beigts and tans. These colors rep
resent the results of the analysis we
have made in the world of fashion
in France and their adoption by our
firm in the manufacture of silks to
be marketed throughout this country
this Fall.
Textile Mills Relieved.
"Of course. the wise hosiery man
ufaCturer, the wise glove maker and
The wise manufacturing milliner and
She farsighted makers of suits, cloa ks
and shoes also have studied this data
and will correlate with the colors
they consider snost popular the mer
chandiSe each has to offer. ouble
will he.in store for the producer who
has not interpreted these signs cor
rectly. Before a color line is pre-
sented in America, Paris representa-
tiveS, acknowledged to be leaders
in their field gather fashion facts and
study dress trends. They also help to
interpret American trends to the
French coutouriers. Vienna. London
and other foreign capitals and resorts
are scanned as carefully as Paris for
fashion data.
when the trends seem established d
painting. sculpture and architecture,
sncicnt and modern, are made to
yield inspiration for textile designs.
This complex data is transmitted to
manufacturers here by cable descrip-
tions. photographs and color and
fabric samples. when they are trans
lated into American fabrics by Amer
lean craftsmen for American con-
sumerS.
In the last few weeks all branches
of the textile manufacturing industry
have found relief from long-con-
tinued depression.
There have been strong infuxes
of out-of-town buyers at wholesale
centers from New York to San
Francisco These buyers are show
ing disposition to anticipate their
forward requirements more gen.
erously. So marked has this tendency
become that difficulty has been found
in filling some lines, especially in
woolenS, and occasionally premiums
are being paid ranging as high as
20 and 80 cents a yard. More mills
are resuming production and a
scramble for goods is not deemed
impossible in the near future
Last week retailers from the Inter-
mountain and Pacific Coast regions
bought more than $500, 900 worth
OF dry goods in San Francisco, or
about s1,500,o00 more than during the
corresponding period of 1923.