Evening star., 1924-02-29
Plans for the Spring Sewing

NE OF the most popular and
at the same time practical
dresses for spring is the
simple chemise dress, which,
can easily be made by the home
dressmaker, and which has so many
possibilities for change. One pat
tern will serve as guide for max
ing many different dresses OF WOOL
silk or wash material. The founda-
tion may be the same cut for all
The kind Of material used and the
style Of trimming applied is what
will afford the changes.
This simple but attractive style OF
dress may De worn with a belt or
not, whichever you choose. 1t may be
made With bodice sId IN a
frill or fiounce at the knee, but how
ever it is trimmed it will still be a
plain, simple chemise dress when
tunic or buttons, which give it style.
If buttons are used as a trimming
they may be placed straight down the
front or straight down the back OF
or accordion pleatings are also used
as trimmings on such a dress. If
pleatings are used they must be fine.
A dress made in long. straight
ftounce below the knee. suggesting
the long. separate overtunic. Is very
stylish and is easy to make.
The necks to these simple dresses
SHOULD be finished in square Ha Or, or In IN
less neck finish, or a narrow lingerie
or linen collar may be worn, or a
bertha collar mayi be made OF the
dress material in single or in double
tier effect. The sleeves should be
either very long or very short, made
IN the leg-o'-mutton style, or tho
long, tight sleeve with a wrist pun,
or with d puff at the elbow. or with
q wide, fiared circular frill at the
wrist. The skirts should be made
short for street wear, and rather
scant as well, if made with a ripping
ruffle finish. There is only one length
for skirts for children'S clothes and
that is as short as can be. Coats and
dresses just come to the knee.
Materials and Trimmings.
There are embroidered linens. or
CANDIES and batiStes for spring and
summer dresses, trimmings ana col
lar and cuff sets. Tier bands in white
color and with eyelet-work embroid-
cry. fUnbleached linen bands. rang.
ing in widths from an inch and half
to four inches. are used as trimmings
for sports costumes. embroidered in
brilliant colorS in silk or In COM
bination of silk and wool.
Both cotton and silk nets Will be
used for entire dresses or in full
gathered panel effects over heavy
satin foundation slips, These nets
are embroidered in scroll design, with
embroidered motifs in colored silk
ribbons. Metal laces and nets are
embroidered in colored silks In jew
Circu,ar flouncinps can he bought
IN all widths, from the very narrow
to the skirt width in black net en-
broidered in silk, metal or combina--
.ions of silk and metal. or silk and
cotton. and even silk. wool and cot
ton. Many circular fiouncings OF net,
which are embroidered in silk or cot
ton, are made in one and two color
combinations and IN black with a
CANDY robes with cutwork patterns
in all-over designs, in two and three
color combinations, are handsome.
White organdy collars and cuffs are
made with hand-scalioped edge IN
color.
The old-fashioned white Swiss
founcings, embroidered in white in
solid. floral-tilled-in patterns, arc cool
ahd attrao1ive Then thaFe and
1aces. An attractive design Is an
ecru batistc embroidered in close. all
over floral design, in Chinese style,
IN SILK IN SOll Oh SGccu, yer
low or blue, relieved by white.
Individual Touches.
A motif of flowers is one Of the
most popular dress decorations and
very charming ones can be made at
home. 4 little experimenting with
some scraps of silk, lace, chiffon or
velvet that blend with your dress, and
you will be surprised at the garden
Of gay flowers that will bloom under
your hand.
One bouquet is made of tiny flowers
formed of narrow velvet and two
Of the satin ribbons stand out like
rays Of radiance against a full, wide
strip Of silver ribbon. 1t is round
like a corsage bouquet and is worn
at the left hip with StreamerS. Tiny
ones like it should be made for the
slippers.
You can make a simple and effec-
tive insertion for children's wash
dresses with the novelty picot braid
that can be bought at any dry goods
store. Into each picot put three
double crochet stitches with a single
stitch between. You can use either
white or colored thread. The col
ored threads used for embroidery
work are heavy enough for the
crocheting and are most attractive
when they are combined with colored
embroidery on white linen or lawn.
Most women who make their own
clothes know the decorative effect of
embroidered washa bic covered but
tons for a wash dress. Such buttons
are easy to cover and easy to en-
broider. Washable bone button molds
have taken the place Of wooden
rnoldS, SO that wash dresses trimmed
with embroidered buttons need not
be spoiled by the breaking of the
buttons. These molds can be bought
In all sizes.
Whatever size you buy, cover each
one with circular piece of linen
or other material to match your dress
and sew on Soutache or other fine
braid in a simple design or en-
broider design with mercerized
floss in white or a color.
One skein of floss will ornament a
do4en small buttons. A pretty and
easy design is in the form of u daisy.
In the center of the button make a
few French knots, then work out
from the center an outline or chain
to form the petals. The point OF
each petal should be held in place
by small stitch. A simple and
working from the center of the but
ton straight lines of different lengths
to form symmetrical pattern. A
flower petal design is made by out
lining the petals with very fine braid
using a few stitches of floss in the
center to simulate stamens. Uncut
eyelets worked in buttonhole stitch
are quickly made and are pretty
Another good design Is to work the
tonhole stitch. then fill the center
of the button with small circles
worked in small French knots.
A monogram, plus d pocket, plus 8
little lace, with a smalr allowance OF
pleated crepe de chine on voile, is