Evening star., 1924-09-28

HE Autumn bride wisely
chooses an ensemble costume
for her. trousseau. whether
that trousseau is large enough
to fill a dozen trunks ana ~
hat boxes, or can be packed comfort
ably in a small steamer trunk ano d
bandbox from the milliner's.
In the trousseau chosen by an Au-
tumn bride who has had to count ner
dollars carefully the ensemble cos
tune does yeoman service as an aiter-
noon or informal dinner gown with
coat that may be worn with the frock
for afternoon receptions and other
rather informal occasions. or may be
used separately as an afternoon and
evening wrap. The lining and long
tunic are Of printed crepe de chine in
coral color with soft blue designs
the coat and skirt are of black vel
vet. while soft gray fur forms collar
and cuffs The skirt is mounted on
crepe slip-the velvet extending only
to the knees For the young woman
who contrives to avoid the complica-
tions of a formal church Wedding
the veil. train. orange blossoms and
the rest--the ensemble makes suit
able going g-away" costume in which
to be married.
White satin knows no real rival as
a material for the bridal gown. To
be sure, white velvet has been
launched as something of a novelty
for Autumn and Winter brides, crepes
are chosen by many brides-to-be, and
lace has its admirers But the con-
ventional, formal choice is usually
satin.
Lanvin has chosen this fabric to
make a charming bouffant wedding
gown with just a suggestion OF flesh
colors besides. 1t has long. full
gathered skirt with train.
More to the taste of the well bred
French woman at the present time is
the draped, strsightline wedding
frock, not very different from the
gown chosen year ago-long-
sleeved, fairly high at the neck. en-
tirely circumspect. For the bare
armed, jazzy wedding dress that
looks as if it had been designed for
a wedding scene in musical comedy
makes little appeal to the really well
bred French woman. Frivolous and
fantastic as may be the other frocks
and costumes in French girls trous-
seau, her wedding dress is almost al
ways of a conservative sort.
For a wedding gown of truly
French characteristics but one that
might be well chosen by the American
bride the sole trimming is a gar
land Of orange blossoms at the left
hip To add anything else would be
to detract from it's smart simplicity.
The skirt is fairly short-shorter
than was the custom with wedding
dresses a year or six months ago.
The train hangs from the shoulders
and the veil of lace is arranged to
extend almost to the edge of the
train.
THE question of negliges is not
l. difficult for the bride who can
afford a dozen or so. She may in
dulge her whim for all sorts of odd
and picturesque little garments She
may have lounging pajama suit Of
black satin trimmed with white: she
may have a scarlet velvet breakfast
coat trailing, lace trimmed tea
gowns. negligees for every hour of
the day and every mood. But for
the girl who must limit herself in
this regard there is nothing more sat
isfactory than the time -honored neg
lige of rose or feshcolor georgette
trimmed with lace 1t is forever be-
coming, and the distinguished de-
signers Of negliges here and in France
have never found a substitute for it
in general becomingnesS and allure.
In spite of wise admonitionS- most
brides still-who can possibly afford
to do so, and many who cannot-have
too many frockS rather than too few.
1t is far wiser to reserve a little
trousseau money for new frock or
30 a few months hence. This is ve-y
good advice just now, when it seems
TO NOSE obSe rvers that we are at the
eve of some rather radical fashion