The broad ax., 1924-08-23
Dainty Fabric Is
in Milady's Favor
Orsandie, Dotted Swiss,
Muslin and Other Mate
rails, Fashion Leaders.

There was once a homely saying
that In France the rustic Of a petit
coat meant silk, In other countries
starch. That. says a fashion writer
in the New York Times, was before
the days when silk pettIcoats, silk
frocks and stockings became as com
mon as they had once been rare, and
before people Of a sturdier standard
and those OF lighter type had been
harmonized by cosmopolitan fashions.
This popular notion has since swept
French and American styles to a sim
liar conclusion. which is that muslin
frocks belong to Americans, and that
they are out Of date, their crisp frilli-
ness dimmed by the Iuster OF French
silk and tissues.
The muslin frock in all its sheer
freshness and its many variants has
been for generations the American
woman's charming own, dainty, CO
quettish, eternally feminine; and many
a woman OF fashion OF the older regime
has regretted that her granddaughter
could not know the pleasure OF dress
ing in lowered French" organdie, dot
ted swiss, book muslin, or the smooth,
cool linen lawns. They were the &C
cepted summer dress, an much for
town as for country wear.
The muslin frock disappeared with
the muslin girl Athletics. the motor
car, sports, life In the open. made de-
mand for simpler lines, more substan-
tial fabrics and much OF the homespun
Idea for day wear. Once the new sill
houette was established, the picture
changed. and the muslin girl became
the tailored girl, mannish, severe, dash
ing, stop STYLE for the vigorous day,
and the chiffon girl for the evening.
Flannels, twills. heavy linens and
loose-wOven silks, treated much as the
tailor employs stuffs for mems wear,
have been for a dozen years the proper
thing for informal occasions. while for
dressy times all the newest weaves IA
starchless voiles. crepes, chifons. mar
quisettes, silks. satins and brocades
were required. The ruf1ed muslin
passed with the erinoline, the loppy
leghorn, lace mitts and long curls. The
new version Is q picture Of slim body,
athletic limb. curveless bodice and
classic draperies.
The American vision was lost and
the Partisan pattern was copied to all
Of the extremes, with many extrava-
CANT indulgences in exotic phases Of
foreign influence. All OF the effect d
safety has been experienced within q
season, and gradually but unmistaka-
bly, the quaint styles In dress and &C
cessories have been coming into view
Costume affairs In fashionable society
and exhibitions Of artistic ccstumlne
in studios and In the theater have re
called to the older and shown to the
younger generation the beauty, the 70
nance and the tradition In dress char.
acteristic Of ourselves, and couturieref
have been alert In responding TO the
suggestion.
Wlnsome New Materials.
No season within merchants mem
ory has brought our greater number
OF original styles In new materials
The woman who is able to crafty heI
desire In this summers wardrobe hai
d bewiidering collection from which Il
choose. Simplicity more simple thar
ever before Is the keynote, especially
IN the handsomest evening gowns seer
az smart affairs on the other side, ths
conspicuous attraction being In thu
goods Of the dress. Trimming on these
formal gowns Is Of exceptional rich
ness; ostrich. which retains It's intenss
popularity. and metal lace and EN-
broidery. each sparingly and effective
" used on lat surfaces.
The frock that answers the purpost
Of the old-time sheer muslin IL o
crepe, designated By many names
wolfe. printed silk. marquisette, chiffor
In ever 10 many grades-all or which
haxo haor, eon~ fvl fha oovgr7 m.~,<,.,s,