davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
The Wonderful Baby

Now, then, ladies and gents" shout
ed the rosy-faced Snowman, walk up
an see the most wonderful baby on
earthl The charge for admission Is
only sixpence. Walk up! Walk up"
A good many people responded to
the invitation, and when the place
was full the Snowman brought for
ward a very ordinary baby indeed In
all respects.
''What is there wonderful about tip
asked one Of the disguised audience
OF the Snowman. 1--WE seen thousands
Of babies like it,
well" said the Snowman, getting
near an aperture in the booth, "all ]
can say is that its mother says it's
the most wonderful baby on earth, an
If she doesn't know who does7 You'll
have to take the lady's word for It'll"
he yelled as he lodged an empty bot
tie and disappeared from view.--Lon-
don Tit-Bits.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Lingerie Ribbon Strap
Gift for Brides Shower

A lingerie strap made OF ribbon viii
make an attractive gift for a brides
shower. The strap is put around the
piles Of lingerie. and keeps the differ
ent garments in neat separate piles IN
the drawer. 1t may also be used in
the linen closet for keeping the linen
pieces stacked together To make the
strap get piece Of ribbon two inches
wide and a yard and three-quarters
long. After forming a loop with the
ribbon the ends are run through a
casing which is made from two pieces
Of cardboard as follows: Cut two
pieces OF cardboard two inches long
and an inch and a half wide. Cover
these pieces on both sides with white
ribbon or silk. Work a little cross
stitch pattern on the silk which Il 10
form the top side In the same color
as the ribbon from which the strap is
made Sew the two pieces Of covered
cardboard together by overcasting the
edges at the top and bottom. leaving a
casing through which to run the ends
of the ribbon.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08

In Lancashire the victim Of nearly
every funny story is the "tackIer," an
onlooker in a mill. He is invariably
made out to be an extremely stupid
fellow. The following is a typical ex-
ample as told by Whit CunIiffe:
Two tacklers, dressed In their Sun
day best, met in the street. and one
remarked to the other:
"'Why, Bill, how nice your suit
looks. You only had 1t new the same
time as mine and look how mine has
gone out Of shape
"'Well, remarked Bill. You should
do the same as / do; get one Of them
coat hangers
"His friends face frightened and
he departed full OF gIee. They met
again some time later.
"'Well. said Bill, did you get that
coat hanger / told you aboutT
YES replied the other, but the
blooming thing made my shoulders
sore"
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Be Careful When
Choosing Lining
interior Of Coat Should Be
Soft, Attractive. Service
able and Easy.

Did you ever buy a coat for its lin
IngT inquiries a fashion correspond
ent IN the Kansas City Star.
Then you're probably a devotee of
lovely Innings. You know that If you
buy handsome lining for wrap.
you are sure to see that tile wrap IT,
self and the gown you wear under 1t
do not cheaper the lining. Every
garment you have, however simple in
style, must live up" to that lining.
SO, as you pause at the lining eoun-
ter, select your material with an eye
70 beauty as well MS durability II is
generally economical, anyway. to get
as good a lining as you can afford
But II Is also quite possible " get an
inexpensive one that will both look
and wear well
The best economy is TO buy a guar
anteed silk for your lining provided
you can afford one OF good quality
A good grade Of some well-wearing
and good-looking mercerized cotton
cloth. however, Is infinitely prefer
able to a cheap silk.
Foulards and crepe de chine are
rather expensive. but they are among
the best Of lining silks. since they are
usually durable as well as beautiful
Satin, like silk, II lovely If it Il
good satin. but loosely woven satin
catches on everything" Here. again
If you cannot afford the best. you will
do well to choose your lining from
mercerized materials In satin weave.
Sateen. for instance, will not only
outwear many a coat, but may be had
In quite handsome effects.
Since your lining should be COM
Portable as well ms ornamental, you
will avoid any material that would
be rough or "scratchy" against the
neck and arms. The durability or
stiff Innings Is uncertain. too. so soft
ness Is, in general. the first thing to
look for In Innings
Firm weave. which will not permit
OF "roughing up" and pulling. Is next;
and then. don't forget that your coat
lining must have a fast color. for
the protection Of the gowns and
blouses You wear underneath It. Test
the fastness Of the color by rubbing
a white handkerchief over the cloth
If any color comes off on your hand
kerchief. you may be sure that fric-
tlon and perspiration would mean the
ruination Of any garments that come
In contact with the material.
All in all. the requirements OF a
desirable lining. whether expensive or
not, are that It should be soft, at
tractive, serviceable, not easily
crushed. and. above all, comfortable.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Old Friends Are Found
Among New" Fabrics

Among the new fabrics for fall
some are new and some are not. Some
are very old friends with entirely
new names. There are some also
which are old friends, but 80 changed
is their appearance that for q mo
ment we seem to have merely a bow
ing acquaintance. until- we examine
them more closely. But whatever the
appearance of the material we are sure
to find on touching it that it is al
ways softer and more piiable to tn
touch.
We seldom hear anyone say any
thing about blue serge now. It goes
by a half-dozen different names, and
while it has lost none Of its warmth
it seems much more closely woven
and Is decidedly lighter in weight
Other weaves. like wool reps and
wool crepes. have divided honors to
some extent and tricotine has also ap
peared In the one-piece frocks that
used to know only serge
What is said Of serge is equally
lA0C Vi AhC AIdiNl4tttS VI EuEuG-lht
surface One seldom hears the word
"duvetyn" any more and In reality
there is very little of that fabric, as
we knew it. seen anywhere But some
Of the new fawn-skin fabrics Snow
about a hairs breadth Of change from
duvetyn; they are thinner, lighter and
more supple, while losing none of Their
warmth. Certainly there are all kinds
Of fabrics for coat and frock IN the
pile kinds. but that pile Is not 20 high
and not so thick. II looks as IL it
might have been clipped down and
smoothed off. Even where there are
checks or cords IN the material the
blocks do not rise SO high from the
surface, except in some of the sports
materials
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Absence Of Any Sheen
Noticeable IN Woolens

One noticeable difference ii the
wooden fabrics this year Is the absence
Of any sheen of any kind whatsoever.
The only exception to this is an oc-
casiOnal piece Of broadcloth with It's
smooth satin-Iike surface. silks are
just the opposite on their surfaces
Satins, bengalines and failles. alpaca
and new silks. called by different
names, are glossy and Iustrous. Satin
has not the mirrored effect that Il
deeper and handsomer looking. Benga-
line and faille have quite a high
finish, while alpaca Is more glossy
and less likely TO wrinkle than Il
has been.
Both the wool and the silk pile fab.
RIGS are much more serviceable than
they were when they were first intro
duced. And when we remember that
duvetyn. shortly after the war period,
was from s12 to $50 a yard. and none
too durable at that. we can see how
wonderfully improved both IN looks
and service all the materials Of this
nature have become.
Some Of the new plaids have a soft
wool foundation plaided with a silk
thread. One III navy blue plaided in
cherry red Is very pretty and very
smart in n street frock.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08


An artificial speaking machine was
demonstrated by Sir Richard Paget.
BY blowing into 1t and lingering stops
he mechanically produced complete
words and sentences.
He used this device to illustrate his
theory Of the development OF human
language from the unintellgibIe roars.
grunts. squeaks, bowls and whistles of
our prehistoric ancestors.
II those early days. be said, &C
cordlng to the New York World, man
used his larynx to roar. to grunt with
and at the same time he communicated
his ideas to others BY grimaees and
the movements Of tongue and lips.
The next step was the discovery that
by blowing air through the mouth
while he was grimacing the move
ments OF his tongue and lips produced
changes Of whispered sounds, SO that
the various grimaces could be recog-
nized even when his back was turned.
The last stage in the great inven-
tion Of speech came when our print
tive ancestors discovered that by roar
ing and grunting at the same time as
they whispered the audible grimace
became recognizable ten or twenty
times farther off than before. They
also found that they could vary the
note Of their roars and grunts with
out interfering with the recognition Of
the grimace. And so they invented
the art of song.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Waistless Gowns Mode
for Paris This Winter

A sheath gown and smile-that's
what the Parisienne Is going to wear
this winter. according to the leaders
81 fashion In the Rue lie da Paix
There won't be any waistline. The
dressmakers have given up as bad
lob the task Of trying to decide wheth.
Of II should be close to the knee OF
close to the northern frontier.
But winter Is going to be cold
Therefore. before you can see the
gown. you can admire cloak Of vel
Vet or SIX with furs as accessories
above and below Fur coats viii be
as popular as ever. Of course. but they
are getting more and more expen-
give The best the woman of mod
est means can DO is to have a fur col.
iar but il must be SO high that moth
ing shows but her eyes.
FUR also viii be utilized as trim
mings at the bottom Of the gown an6
under that che can see hand sewn
stockines Of silk or isle with lace, sill
YER or gold embroidery.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Evening Coats Promise
to Be FaVorite Style

Evening coats viii be more popu.
lar than capes, according to a promi-
nent fashion writer. Gold metal EN-
brOidery trims many OF these Some
times the sleeves are embroidered. the
rest Of the wrap remaining plain
Many Of the suit-coats, which ex-
tend within ten inches Of the hem
Of the frock. have three rows Of fur
banding placed at intervals about the
bottom Of the coat. Sleeves Of the
coats are generally rather snug-httine
from shoulder to wrist, and are fin
ished with four or five-inch cuffs Of
fur. Outstanding collars Of fur viii
be popular.
Where fur forms the hem-border
on the slender frock. the accompany
ing coat extends just above the fur.
Collar and cuffs Of the coat match the
fur used on the frock-
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Novelty Features
Late Paris Gowns
aany Interesting Touches
Brought Out BY Promi-
nent Designers.

Premet's winter collection shows
sreat cieyerness and ingenuity n II.
PRODUCING touches Of novelty int
sO"ns that retain all the well-lnoyvn
traditions Of this house. saws 4 fasbton
writer In the New York Herald -T,.lh-
une. There are yokes to the base "
me shoulder line on most ~ the
dresses The center-back is defined M
! seam, plat. strap. ana often
uilhess Is given BY group Of IN
Nerted knife-plaits at the foot. both
cenfer-baek and front The waIsr.
inc i slightly higher, but this i ar.
'anged IN such subtle manner as "a
scarcely perceptlble, for the belt.
ess fashion still remains a feature "
thls house, There is a slight fittlnr
AZ the normal waistline in some In.
stances. In others the buttons Of a
aoupiebreasted coat are placed higher
than they would have been last wear
a touch Of embroidery or a ribbon
cravat Is brought through a slot IN
the dress at a higher level than n
the last collection.
The bloHses worn with three-piece
suits are as long as the coats and
often quite straight They are ger
orally Of georgette crepe, which NAV
be plated or embroidered.
Plaid is much used In this coIIec.
ton and SO is fine silk faille called
grain de pOudre which resembles OF.
toman There is a material that
looks like interviewer bands, nearly
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Relationship Between
Color and Your Income

When you make your decision upon
what Is your color" observes a writ
er in the Kansas City Star, undoubt-
edly you consider your eyes, your
hair, your skin, and perhaps even the
psychological effects the color has on
your moods. But do you consider
your income?
If you do not, not only are you like
ly to have a depleted bank balance and
worried expression. but the very
colors you choose as yours" are like
~, by some malicious magic, to be-
come both unsuitable. and unbecoming.
Suppose, for instance, it Is some
bright shade which you have select
ed as pre-eminently suited to your
looks and personality. Now, If your
income is such that you cannot afford
plenty Of other and milder-colored
clothes, to Offset the ones Of the
favored loud color. your friends are
going to tire Of that color quickly F:
and the chances are that, after time,
you will even cease to appear attrac-
tive IN tat least to those who see
you wear it daily.
Prominent stripes, plaids and checks
come In the same class of conspicuous
clothing as do striking colors. You
can appear attractive season after
season in a ACKNOWLEDGMENT gown,
say of blue, black, brown or dark
green. where you would soon become
a firing object to the eye If you APP
peared throughout a single season in
a bright red. or brilliant green
checkered sports suit.
Again, the color considerations Of
the women whose income is limited
should concern lightness. as well as
brightness, OF shade. It Is obvious
that, since light clothing appears
soiled much more quickly than dark
clothing does. too much Of 1t in the
wardrobe Of the average woman is an
unwarranted expense, as it entails
constant cleaners bills.
Only If you have enough money to
keep light, easily soiled clothes con.
tinuaIly at the cleaners, and to dis
card clothes Of which you or your
friends have become tired you can
disregard the otherwise important re.
lationship between color and your in
come
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
cleueEond on the coru

Grover Cleveland's composition on
the cow, written when he was a small
boy in school, follows:
"The COW is very useful IL It were
not for the COW we could not have no
milk to put in our coffee and tea.
Every part of the COW is useful
the skin is tanned into leather and
boots are made OF 1t. The flesh Il
good for food and is called beef; their
horns are made into buttons. OF milk
butter and cheese Is made. There Is q
glutinous substance by the hoof which
is made into glue-indeed IL 1t were
not for the COW. we should have to do
without many things which are con-
sidered necessaries Of ife."-Kansas
City Times.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08

half an inch wide, Of thick artificial
silk. In black 1t is much used for
dresses and afternoon coats.
Fob ribbons. buckles and enamel
or diamond ornaments are attached
wherever there is an excuse for them
and often when there is not Some
OF these ribbons are embroidered with
a motto. For instance, on a gray
dress there is a gray ribbon with the
cryptic phrase mi vous sans moi nj
moi sans vous" embroidered ID q
darker shade.
LouisebouIange has a collection
that is strikingly original and pic
turesque. Her color effects are in
teresting and she uses unusual trim
mings that are carefully thought out
Some of her blouses are delightful,
and there is distinction In her cut
A new feature is the importance
given to the shoulder line, which il
made high with gathers. plaits or
shocking where the sleeve is sewed
into the dress.
Coats are cut very wide and show
a circular movement. One in cara.
cul is trimmed with narrow inlet
bands Of black velvet, while another.
in gray duvetyn. Is lined with black
ana white wool material and has q
white fur collar
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Ancient candlestick

Unique in appearance is an iron
candlestick owned BY Los Angeles
girl. This was given her ancestors BY
Henri II Of France. It was used In the
doughty monarch's hunting lodge. and
is made Of sturdy iron spirals set upon
round base on three bent legs. The
candle fits down IN the spiral. and
there Is an ingenious iron knob or
handle which. when twisted, raises the
diminishing candle a spiral aft d
time, 50 that the light may be kept
even as the wax melts down.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Slave Bracelets Lure

The lure OF the slave bracelet u
very great Everywhere one sees 1t
worn, from simple gOld-linked brace
lets to more elaborate affairs Of coli
ored enamels combined with gold.
Quite the newest BIT or costume jew
elry consists Of barpin with several
links Of eolored enamel separated BY
links Of the gold These look extreme
" wen when worn In connection with
the bracelets.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Slim Silhouette
Now in Danger
Flared HemIine Threatens
to Gain Approval of
Women of Paris.


The indecision OF the Paris couturt
has caused a rift in the hitherto har-
monious lutte OF fashion. Months be-
fore the opening In August. says a
Paris writer In the New York Herald
Tribune. there came rHmbIings or dis
content from critics, who insisted that
the straight silhouette had outlived Its
day and that a definitely different out
line was essential for the autumn sea
son. On the other hand. there were
the countless devotees of the slim line,
amounting to almost cult, who con-
tended that the esthetic appeal and
the simple charm Of current styles
could not be supplanted by any bout
FAINT or intricate effects. Your Paris
designer il nothing If not diplomat,
and he shrewdly declined the issue by
offering milady her choice OF several
distinct silhouettes. Far from settling
the question, this attitude naturally
enough drew the lines of battle still
closer. until today. with the autumn
season inaugurated, the usual sym
phonic family Of the mode has been
disrupted into two opposing camps
1t is true that the offering of wide
advertisement Of styles by the French
couture has come to be matter OF
course In recent seasons The I'M
precedented growth Of fashion and
consequent artistic competition have
been responsible for more varied eff
forts on the part or the couturier.
But in the past there was always an
agreement on the basic tenets Of the
mode Waistlines might vary, sleeves
might be subjected to diverse manipu-
lations, trimmings and accessories were
as individual as the salons which ex-
plotted them, but the. foundation was
definitely the same with practically
every designer
Long Sleeves Approved.
Compared to these normal tenden-
cies Of the mode, the trend this au-
tumn has been a paradox The Paris
creators have agreed upon the details
and have proceeded to diversity the
keystone The long and narrow
sleeve is an accepted fact in autumn
fashions-it is definitely a part of the
picture. The high neckline Is another
detail upon which the couture is IN
harmony. and It's place, too, is Sc
cure and safe in the autumn mode.
Another general point of accord is the
abbreviated skirt, which with some
designers falls seventeen inches short
Of terrestrial paths, and which aver
ages between fourteen and fifteen. To
which must be added the ensemble
and the tunic, each Of which occupies
prominent place in every collection.
Consider now the silhouette, which
has ever been the traditional basis
Of every new seasons fashions. The
straight, slim line has dominated the
situation for the last half dozen sea
sons, and while its supremacy has
been sporadically challenged, there
has never been a strong, determined
effort to idIsplace 1t from its easy
throne-at least, NOT until the present
The broad ax., 1924-11-08

the prince Of Wales. attracted an un-
precedented gathering Of society.
Using the clothes worn at this func-
ton as a criterion, il is evident that
the adherents of the straight. slender
outline are still in a clear majority.
Yet there was a very distinct sprin-
king Of the flared skirt effects, some
times exploited quite boldly and some
times offered little timorousIy. 1t
was significant, however, that these
new tendencies received the most en-
enlargement from those women who
are notably smart dressers.
Our own opinion is that 1t will be
another season before a new silhou-
cite takes definite place in the do
mains of fashion-that many OF the
designers who CROPPED timidly toward
something different In the August
showings viii take a firmer stand
when the February spring openings
arrive. We believe that even the mid
season exhibitions, which take place
in November. will display definite
tendencies away from straight sim
plicity. For the present, however, the
ubiquitous slender silhouette is the
current fare Of the mode. The new
outlines, distinctly modIsh, may be
categorical as caviar-caviar to the
queen.
Double Effects Featured.
Perhaps the most prominent Of the
- III
Gabrielle Chanel Her skirts are In
variably cut on circular lines and a
flare at the hemline, sometimes slight
and sometimes clearly marked, is al
ways apparent The coats OF this de-
signer are usually fitted slightly at the
waist and employ godets and gathers
to achieve the desired full effect. Like
every other member OF the Paris cou-
ture. Chanel has recognized the appeal
Of the ensemble, which il a distinctive
feature of her collection.
A striking ensemble consists Of a
brown velvet coat that has shocking
across the shoulders at the back and
a belt, also at the back, that ties I'm
a loose bow at the side. It is lined
with pale green crepe romain and
worn over d dress OF the same green
crepe that has narrow. fiat flounces in
three groups from waistline to hem.
A new idea In her coats is a very
interesting double effect which "a
achieved by means or contrasting ma
terials. For instance, coat In N
brown and beige novelty rodIer ma
terial Is made to look as II It were q
loose sack over an undercoat or M.
tria. and IL cut In flaps at the back
to show more Of the fur, which also
appears all around It. Many coats
are double fronted. 50 that the upper
part may flap back. while the under
front, In a different material, rs held
across the figure.
The same idea is noted in capes, OF
which there are several IN the coIlec.
tfon, both for day and evening wear.
These are three-quarter length. One
in seaIskin has high turnover col.
lar Of royal blue fable, which lines
the cape. and there y q quilted inner
front which has slashes for the arms
TO pass through. and ~ held across I'm
the manner described above.
Elaboration Is the dominating note
lof the evening and formal afternoon
coats.
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Gifts for &c Bride

The girl who contemplates being
married, and is busy with her trous-
seau. will be interested ii the linen
strips that are meant to hold ones
linens In neat piles. These strips tie
with tapes and are cross-stitched with
floral designs and the name Of the
article they are meant to hold, such as
towels pillow cases and sheets
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Small Hat With High
SnIIare Crown Is LIED

Happily for all concerned several
new styles have taken the place Of
the little belI-shaped hat in the affec.
lions Of the wearers. The tiny hat
still rules supreme. and no wonder
for Il seems to fit the tubular outline
TO perfection. The small hat with 2
high square crown is one Of the new.
est and best liked hats Of the moment
and these are seen with the brim
turned up Id front or Id back, or witt
a brim that is straight
The broad ax., 1924-11-08

season, when, in Difference to a re-
quest which came partly from society
and which was partly professional.
two other silhouettes were submitted.
These were not offered to the exclu-
sion Of the perennial straight line,
which stiIl runs It's merry course, but
rather as supplementary outlines The
newcomers are the directoire siIhou-
cite and the nodded bodice and Jared
hemline combination.
Patou. for instance. has once more
followed the slim. y0FIthful line which
has always been his. but even this de-
signer has harkene,s to the siren call
of the dare, ant has introduced II by
means OF The godet. Lanvin. partIcu-
larry In her evening gowns, has per
cepfibly wsdened the hefnline. Cabot
has built her collection principally
around the slender Outline or last
spring. she adheres 10 the slender
The broad ax., 1924-11-08
Worn u New Manner

A number Of smart women, Wearyine
Of the multiplicity Of glass bangles
now have adopted the two-bracelei
idea. The two bracelets match. and
one is worn above the left elbow, the
other on the left wrist