davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
TESTS FOR FIBERS,
YARNS AND FABRICS
Housekeeper Can Safeguard
Herself in Buying Textiles.

prepared by the United States Department
of Agrirulture.)
There are several simple tests ap-
plicable to the fiber, the yarn, and the
sabric by means of which housekeep-
er can often safeguard herself in buy
Ing textiles, says the bureau of home
economics of the United States De
partment of Agriculture
To test the fiber, ravel out few
yarns from the fabric, taking samples
both from the warp and the filling and
from. stripes, checks and different
parts of the pattern. Untwist these
yarns and observe and test the fibers
singly or by putting several together.
Cotton f1bers appear short, dull and
fuzzy. Mercerfzed cotton is similar
but more lustrous. Apply lighted
match to yarn Of each and observe
that they burn quickly, with a yellow
flame that flashes along and leaves
very small amount of gray ash.
Linen fibers are long, rather stiff
and lustrous. A linen yarn burns like
that of cotton but leaves more blunt
end Linen Is often mixed with mer-
cerized cotton, and this adulteration
Is sometimes difficult to detect. A
linen fabric appears cool to the touch,
and drop of moisture or ink spreads
more rapidly on pure linen than on
cotton. However, the latter is influ-
enced SO much by the sizing on the
fabric that 1t is not reliable test
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
COMFORTABLE sPoRTswEAR COSTUME

wAsat a turmoil is Dame Fashion this
very moment.
However, Madame Mode is equal to
tie occasion. She lavishes alike her
genius on wintry costume or Palm
Beach apparel Indeed, her styling of
arctic sportswear is particularly note
worthy this season for its fine finesse
and general air of smart costuming.
Tho outfit shown here is complete in
every detail. There is a heavy middle"
pull-on sweater in white with buff bor-
dering, matching cap, striking
brushed wool gloves, knickers and
snug knitted ankle hose. In a beauty
contest it would surely have to be a
wondrous costume for summer to win
over this winter picture.
1t would seem as if fashion grows
more exacting each season as to re-
iating each detail of the costume to a
perfect ensemble For instance, the
handsome outfit pictured elects to fea-
ture pure white with just a suggestion
of yellow introduced in the trimmings.
The cap and sweater are knitted to
match, and the entire is designed to
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Plaid Tafeta TUNES
in Ensemble Costumes

TUNES Of plaid taffeta are an in
tegral part of the ensemble costumes
designed for school girls and their
sisters Of sub-debutante age Dance
frocks are of plaid chiffon in lovely
pastel tones, while the sports frock
of flannel and the tailored suit Of q
plain material combined with plaid
are recognized as outstanding fea-
lures Of the modes of this season. One
of the prettiest models is dark blue
flannel which has three-quarter
length tunic bound with red and blue
plaid and worn over a skirt of plaid.
The fashion Of lining the coat with
plaid, or of using one Of the new
woolens which are plain on one side
and plaid on the other for the coat is
a distinctive note of the new modes
and one which has achieved decided
vogue.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Wooden Stockings Half
Size Larger Than Feet

Wooden stockings agree style au-
thorities and doctors, have come to
stay-at least so long as we will wear
low-cut shoes and short skirts through
the cold of winter. And so, If you are
q sensible woman, as well as a we'll
dressed one, says the Kansas City
Star, you are sure to want some wool
stockings to wear with your sports
clothes and walking toys in the win
ter time.
In buying wool stockings, one of the
most important things to remember Ia
to get them large enough--a half size
larger than the feet, at least. 1t is
true that any stocking will wear bet
ter if it is slightly longer than the
foot, but the fact is particularly true
as regards wool stockings, because Of
their extraordinary shrinking pro-
clivities. This difficulty may be over
come by care in laundering as well as
by allowing for shrinkage when you
buy. Never use anything but soft
water in washing wool stockings, since
soft water requires less soap to make
a lather; and the less soap you use,
the better, since soap is likely to
cause felting-the direct cause of
shrinking in woolens. 1t will pay
you to buy the wooden forms on which
to dry your wool stockings, too, if you
wear them a great deal. On these, the
stocking feet will stretch back to the
proper size.
Now, many women object to wool
stockings on the grounds that they are
''scratchy" If you have discovered
this fault with them you will probably
find solution in the silk and wool
stockings. which are not only more
attractive, having less tendency to
chicken" the ankles; but whiI a, e
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

clever example beng shown at
the left Of the picture. A cor
sage ornament of ostrich fringe,
centereu with fancy silk and tinseI
ribbon, is next it. A fashion for wear
ing flowers at the shoulder has
brought out small blossoms made CT
loops of metal ribbon set in silver
leaves. The loops are drawn up at
the top and the wire stem is wound
with ribbon. Bags Of metallic bro
cade have as much permanence in the
modes as any others. Two of them
are shown here, one of black and
silver brocade lined with gray silk.
1t is supported by a fine. silver chain
run through tiny rings set near the
top on the inside. AS a finish sill
yer tassel is sewed to the bottom.
The Other bag, in silver ana several
colors, is mounted on a silver filigres
mounting with silver chain
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Co. 1924. Western Newspaper uDiouI
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
PUMPKIN OR SQUASH
EXCELLENT DISHES
Different Ways for .Prepar-
ing Vegetables for Table.

prepared by the United States Department
of Agriculture.)
In addition to plain mashed steamed
pumpkin, seasoned with butter, salt
and pepper, or baked squares Of
pumpkin, this excellent vegetable may
be served creamed glazed or en- casse-
role.
To prepare the pumpkin or squash
cut it open, remove the seeds and
stringy portion and pare. Very young,
tenuer squash Of the round white or
yellow crooknecked varieties may be
cut up and cooked without pairing.
When baking hubbard squash or
pumpkin it may be cut up into three
inch squares clean of seeds and baked
without pairing, rind side down. One
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

the small accessories that keep up UNI
tagging interest are things Of today.
There are lot of them and all
metallic ribbons have the leading
roles to play in their bright drama.
Narrow silver and gold ribbons, fancy
cOlored ribbons shot or edged with
tinsel and rich metallic brocaded rib
bons, account for nearly all of the
headbands, hair and corsage orna-
ments, girdles and bags that set off
the costumes of their wearers. The
pleasant thing about them is that
they are easy TO make and not ex-
pensive when they are the product of
spare time in the home.
Leading the company of hair orna-
ments come those Of narrow silver
ribbon Sometimes a band Of 1t 10
set with little silk or metallic roses
in a half wreath, or three bands are
brought together at the ends and
spread apart at the center. where in
tersecting bands are set with tiny
silver roses. Or the strands of lib
bon are interviewer and finished with
a little ostrich pompon in any color,
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

effect snow-Iike charm to fit into the
general landscape.
The preference for all-white sports
toys is evidenced throughout all knit
ted louterwear, this season.
1t adds to the loneliness Of some Of
the new white sweaters and caps, that
they are furnished with white loop
knit borders, or if not loop-knit,. then
sheared yarn which looks like heavy
white fur
Scarf-sweaters are immensely popu-
lar and practical. One appreciates a
knitted scarf as an extra protection
against stinging frost and wind
An interesting feature in many of
the newest sweaters, is the high neck.
Collars which spread up around the
chin, fastening closely about the throat
interpret the extreme of the mode.
Some of the very exclusive winter
sports models show collars and cuffs
Of white fur, the fur used also for the
matching cap.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

agent will be removed. This will also
remove surface designs put on with
paste. In the case of wash fabric,
launder sample and observe the re.
suit. A very Loose weave may be com.
pletely covered by heavy sizing If
noncrushable fabric is desired, crash
between the hands and note the re.
suit. Some silks water-spot very
badly.
Hold the fabric up to the light and
observe its firmness. Pull the yarns
apart with the finger nails. If they
slip easily, the fabric will pull at the
seams. Tear a sample. This gives
an idea Of the strength. Another
method is to place the ends of the
thumbs together, holding the material
between them and the first finger, and
pull first on the warp or lengthwise
threads and then on filing or cross
wise threads. Notice how the warp
threads compare with the filing
threads. A fine warp will not stand
the strain from a heavy filling; there
fore fabric so woven is not strong.
This is also true of those having
heavy cord beside a very fine thread
as found in some dimities and muslins.
Notice whether there are long floats"
on the surface or loose yarns which
could be easily caught and torn. Study
the method used in introducing the
design and observe whether wear
would easily remove the figures either
because they are not firmly woven In
or because they have been chemically
applied in an undesirable manner.
Dyes should be fast to the condi-
ton under which they are used. This
may include one or more of the fol-
lowing: Fastness to light, washing,
perspiration, bleaching, ironing or
steaming.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

standing characteristic of the sleeved
model is the sleeve itself, which fire.
quently offers a color contrast to the
principal fabric. Sleeves are of many
variations-they may be ample and
baggy with wide cuffs, they may be
huge from the shoulder and narrow
suddenly at the wrist, they may be mar
row with narrow cuffs or narrow with
large cuffs. The cape Is dependent
upon luxurious fabrics and ingenious
details for its chic.
In a word, the evening wrap may
be cape or cloak, its silhouette may be
straight or fared, its colors are usually
brilliant and its fabrics are always
sumptuous. And it should affect an
Oriental atmosphere in necessary con-
trast to the comparative simplicity Of
the robe du soir.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

of the most satisfactory methods Of
cooking pumpkins or squash is by
steaming it till tender in colander
or steamer over boiling water. Cooked
in this way it is less watery than
when boiled
Dreamed pumpkin consists of pieces
of steamed pumpkin baked in sugar
and water or other sirup to which
butter has been added. In preparing
a casserole of pumpkin the vegetable
is diced raw and placed with little
water, butter and seasonings in a
covered baking dish to cook until the
pumpkin is tender and all the water
absorbed. 1t is served hot in the same
dish. Pumpkin timbales, soup, Gus
tard, bread pudding, corn dodger and
corn bread are other excellent ways
Of using pumpkin when in season.
Squash may be used If more con-
venient.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

cupfuls of pastry flour and two table
spoonfuls Of baking powder. Add the
-four alternately with one cupful of
milk and mix thoroughly. Last of all
add five stiffiy beaten egg whites and
bake in three layers. When cold put
together with:
Orange FIlng.-Boil together one
third OF a cupful of water, one-half
cupful OF sugar, and the grated rind of
two oranges. Combine one Tablespoons
full of lemon juice, two-thirds cupful
of orange juice, two tablespoonfuls Of
cornstarch, three well-beaten egg yolks !;
add to the first mixture and cook until
II thickens. Remove from the fire and
add one tablespoonful of butter When
partly cool spread between the layers
Cover the top of the cake with:
Orange lcing.-Boil together one
cupful Of sugar, one-third of cupful
of water and the grated rind of one
orange. Cook to the soft-boil stage
and pour over a stiff1y beaten egg
white. Beat until thick enough to
spread without running.
A good way to hold thick frosting
on TOP of a cake is to pin three-inch
band of buttered paper around the
cake. pour over the frosting and leave
the naper on until the frosting hardens.
Three-Layer Cake.-Cream one-half
cupful of shortening; gradually add
one and one-half cupfuls of sugar. Sift
together two cupfuls of -four and two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder; add
TO the butter mixture, alternately with
three-fourths Of a cupful Of milk, one
teaspoonful Of vanilla and the whites
of four eggs, beaten stiff. When
thoroughly blended bake in three lay
ers.
Rouuefort Appetizers.-C rumb e
one-fourth cupful of Roquefort cheese,
add one-fourth teaspoonful Of paprika.
one teaspoonful of lemon Juice and
enough catsup to make the mixture of
the right consistency to spread.
Cream together, spread thin layer of
slices of buttered bread cut very thin
and in various shapes.
Planked Steak.-The steak should
be cut about an inch and one-hal1
thick. Wipe carefully with a damp
cloth. On well creased, hot broiler
cook the steak over Goals or under gas
for eight minutes, turning it four OF
five times. Set the steak on hot
plank; arrange four cooked stuffed
onions around it, alternating with
four stuffed raw tomatoes. Brush with
egg yolk and pipe well-seasoned
| mashed potato around the edges OF
the plank Set in the oven to finish
COOKING the steak-about six minutes
and serve from the plank.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Loud Coiors Used
in Evening Wraps
Cape and Sleeve Effects De-
veloped in Metallic Bro
cades, Velvets.

The new evening wraps differ in one
essential detail from their dress prot0
types-they make absolutely no preten-
sions toward simplicity, declares a
fashion writer in the New York Her.
ald-Tribune. Sumptuous fabrics, Law
ish embroideries and striking colors
unite with cape types and new slls
houettes to place the wrap du soir in
a class apart.
Consider first the silhouette. Despite
the general tendency toward the fare
the formal cloak is quite as smart
when cut along the same straight lines
as last season. The flare, of course,
makes its appearance, but it is prin-
cipally effective in cape variations
characteristic models of which genre
maintain the straight line from shout
der to knee, at which point decided
flare becomes manifest.
Metallic brocades are the leading
fabrics for the evening wrap, followed
closely by velvet. Trimmings are
many, and, besides nearly every species
of fur, include marabou, ostrich and
many involved, almost bizarre, en-
broideries.
Vivid color has always been a part
of the evening mode, and inasmuch as
the winter robes du soir show de-
cided prediction for light pastel
shades the always attendant brilliance
of formal evening functions is left to
the wrap or cape. Red, gold, bright
green, pervenche blue, black, white and
pink are modish colors this season,
and contrasting pair Of these shades
often unites in a single wrap. For ex-
ample, model of black velvet will
have sleeves which are embroidered in
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Weighted Silk Does Not Change
Shape-Pure Silk crumpIes.

If there is any doubt, the best method
is to examine the fibers with micro
scope as described in books on fiber
structure
give characteristic sensation when
drawn between the teeth, smolder
when ignited, leaving an irregular
lump of ash, and giving off the odor
of burning feathers. Wool dissolves
when boiled for Is minutes in solu-
ton containing one tablespoonful of
I've to a pint Of water. Larger
amounts Of alkaline washing powder
may be used instead of I've. This is
an excellent way to detect fabrics
made of both wool and cotton as the
cotton will not disappear under such
treatment
SILK fibers are long, smooth and
straight, and have bright luster.
When ignited they burn quickly, give
off an odor similar to that of burning
wool, and form hard, round cinder
Heavily weighted silk will leave an
ash the exact shape of the fiber or
yarn, because only the silk burns off.
Artificial silk is much more lustrous
than real silk, is more stiff and harsh
and burns like cotton.
To test the yarn, ravel out samples
of yarn and break them. Note the
relative strength. If artificial silk,
dampen and notice the breaking
strength. Some artificial silk is very
much weakened by water. Note the
amount of twist in the yarns.
To test the fabric, rub it briskly
between the hands. An excessive
amount of starch and other stiffening
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

softer and less harsh against the skin.
Silk and wool stockings are easier to
launder, too, than are all-wool stock
ings. They. should, however, be
washed only in lukewarm water and
pure soap, and should be carefully
pulled and patted into shape as they
dry.
The disadvantage of both wool and
silk ard wool stockings lies in the
tendency 70 keep them on indoors,
after having worn them out Of doors.
It is wise always to change them for
lightweight silk or, cotton stockings,
when in a warm place, else the feet
will become tender and sensitive.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Fur Collars Are Ribbon Tied

The little dress was in satin. quite
straight, with long tight sleeves, and,
for all trimming, a narrow band in
front set with buttons, with jabot of
the same material on each side. The
three-quarter length coat was in silk
broche with shaped f1ounce at the
bottom bordered with narrow band
of fur. A small fur collar separate
from the dress, tied with ribbons in
front, was a pretty detail. Similar
collars in fur were frequently seen on
other models.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
HANDSOME MATCHED SETS;
LEND TOUCH OF SPLENDOR

THERE are two kinds of us-those
of us who do, and those of us who
do not appreciate the joys of winter.
Is it a guess as to which class belongs
milady of the accompanying picture!
Surely this young woman is dressed to
look the part"
What with rush orders for bathing
suits and diaphanous frocks from a
clientele who would spend the winter
IN sunny southlands, and equally as
lmperious demands from those who
would revel in arctic environment for
sportswear of the sturdier kind in
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

Furbeows have their fleeing day
and cross the sky of fashion In
sparkling companies, most of them
gay and frivolous but full of charm
and class. Just at this time all the
pretty accessories that bring the cos
tune to the proper climax are in
greatest demand and those that have
a CLEAN of gold or silver are enjoy
ing their hour of triumph. If one In
cludes real jewelry in the list of fur
bellows, good pieces have a lasting
value and attraction, and change Of
fashion affects them very little. Put
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

a sharply contrasted shade. Or deep
red cloak of chiffon velvet will show a
white ermine collar fringed with fur
tails
There are two distinctive types of
evening wrap this winter and each is
equally en- regle. There is the sleeved
cloak, featured prominently at the mid
season showlngs in Paris. and there is
the cape effect which has had a splen-
did following this winter. The out
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Lots of Flowers

Flowers are seen everywhere on
frocks from the small embroidered
nosegays on the lapels of the tailored
costumes to the corsages of natural
orchids. Camelias, roses, orchids and
combinations Of small flowers are pop
ular.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
New Jewelry Conceit

Three strands of pearls are being
worn by women who keep up to the
minute in jewelry fashions. The pearls
are large, almost of the "choker" sort,
and usually black or gray.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
Tiny Pockets Worn

A tiny pocket in the skirt just below
the waistline is feature Of the new
tailored dresses. Into this pocket a
brilliant little chiffon handkerchief Is
supposed to be slipped,
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

u d1I5C HIIII15. O1IC INDY
use any simple recipe for
the cake and the filling
below
Orange Layer Cake
Cream together one cup
full of butter and two
cupfuls of sugar. To this
add three egg yolks, one
at a time, beating Wig
orously after each addi-
tion Sift tounthor thrno
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
s69 TIE
KITCHEN
CABINE 7 Il
20. 1924. Western Newspaper Union)
WEEKLY MENU SUG-
GESTIONS

While there are such quantities Of
fresh vegetables to be had, the family
should enjoy them to the limit.
UNDAY--Breakfast: Oatmeal with
top milk, drop doughnuts. Dinner:
Chicken fricassee served on halved
baking powder biscuits, sweet corn.
Supper: Salmon salad. cucumbers.
MoNDAY-Breakfast: Muskrelon,
toast, eggs, coffee. Dinner: Corn and
tomato soup, apple pie. Supper:
Sliced tomatoes with cream.
TUES AY-Breakfast: Grapes,
bran, cream. Dinner: Peach shortcake,
sauted summer squash. Supper:
Rolled cake with blackberry jam.
WEDNESDAY-Br WaffIes.
Dinner: Fried ham, sliced cucumbers.
Supper: Potato salad, cookies, tea.
THURSDAY Breakfast: Omelet.
Dinner: Hamburger steak with on
'ons. Supper: French toast.
FRIDAY-Breakfast: Poached eggs
,n toast. Dinner: Fried fresh fish,
stewed tomatoes. Supper: baking pow
der biscuits, peaches, cream.
SATURDAY-Breakfast: Bran muf-
fms. Dinner: Baked hash. lettuce
salad, custard pie. Supper: Nut
Tread.
Corn and Tomato Soup.
Put one small onion through a meat
chopper and cook five minutes with
two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when
well blended add one quart Of toma-
toes peeled and cut in pieces, two cup
fuls of water, one teaspoonful of salt,
md simmer twenty minutes. Add two
.upfuls of corn cut from the cob and
cook ten minutes. Just before serv-
Ing add one cupful of cream or milk
md more seasoning If required.
Sauted Summer Squash.
Cut squash in slices one-half inch
thick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper
and dredge with flour. Saute in but
ter or sweet fat of any kind, and cook
we'll on both Sides Sprinkle the CEN
tiers with minced parsley when serving.
The autumn skies are flushed with
gold,
And fair and bright the rivers
run;
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25
sEAsoNARLE GOOD THINGS

A very delicious combination for a
cake is chocolate layer cake with an
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1924-12-25

The autumn skies are flushed with
gold,
And fair and bright the rivers
run;
These are but streams of winter
cold,
And painted mists that quench
the sun.
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1924-12-27
PRoBABLEMENTE

10 que usted necesita 10 puede en-
contrar en- la secci6n de anuncios cla-
Bifcados ia TT. MUNDo. soavenzase.
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1924-12-27
+. M. CARABANo
Ell EMBAJADCR DE ESTADOS
UNIDOS EN- FRANCIA DEsMIEN-
TIE LOS RUMORES ALARMISTAS
EN- FRANCIA

PARIS, Die. "a. (Cable Frances).
--Segin declaraciones del "Chicago
Tribune, el embajador de Estados
Unidos en- Paris ha cablegrafiado a
Washington desmintiendo los rumo-
res alarmistas que circular en- Fran
cia respecto a un levantamiento que
Sc anu1cia de las fuerzas comunis-
taa-
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1924-12-27
TRASLADO De 0FIJINA'


iEI abogado Hugh R. Francis. de
San Juan, P. r. desea partici-
par a su cIientela que ha tras-
Iadado su oficina para ell septi-
mo piso del edificio Gonzalez
Padin, donde tendra sumo gus
to en- seguir atendiendo a todos
sus elientes.
Advt.