The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-01-06
The Well Dressed
 Woman Of Smart Society
By MARCARDT WADn

 ton society standing midway In its season of 1923-1934 admits the not always soft impeachment of tts crit. ics of other cities that, sartorially speaking, it is not abreast of the times.
 The said critics. however. eenoede that even with the example of coon omy and American-made gowns ; proudly proclaimed by the first lady of the land. and indorsed by the great majority of American women. Washington is pre-eminent in social part of the country contributing to the gaiety of season unprecedented for dinner parties. private balls and a succession of luncheons and break lasts in compliment to our own offi- cials or the strangers within our
 Mclean house. on McPherson square, where two generations of Washington society have been accus- toned to dance the old year out and the new year in. remains dark, be- hind It's iron shutters and gate lock- ed doorway copied from a famous Florentine palace while it's owners society still danced on New Years Eve with MT. and Mrs. Joseph Letter taking their place as the leading non-officiai hosts of the season.
 The Letter ball renewed the glories of the Dupont circle home built 2 prince of Chicago and Mrs. Levi 2. Letter, parent of it's present tenant.
 Here. as at the Stokes ball earlier in December; at the White House dinner party. and the breakfast at tie Pan-American Union on New server was impressed by the fact that costumes of Paris creation, or the strictly made-to-order gowns following Paris suggestions proclaim themselves not only up to date, but quite in advance /. of accepted fash ions. Color even more than line dis tinguishes the newest gowns. with the Countess Szechenyi, wife of the minister from Hungary and daugh- ter of the late Cornelius Vanderbilt, wearing one of the smartest crea- tions in yellow velvet with long train and straight panel effect in front The edges of both are fin ished in rhinestones, the latter also covering the shoulders. This gown is sleeveless and beltless with the square decol1atage in front and deep V in the back. a variation in neck line much exploited in the latest im- portations.
 Miss Mary Brown warburton of Philadelphia. granddaughter Of the late John Wannamaker, . frequent visitor to Mrs. Sylvinus Stokes, IT,, Is wearing a Papis gown of new rose tone. a silk crepe as to founda- ton literally covered in gold em- broidery applied as a flat flounce from the knees with additional band- ings to the waist. The top Is of the square front and v back model with a broad sash of rose color satin fall ing from the base of the V to the heels.
 Mrs. Peter Goelet Gerry. wife of the senator from Rhode Island, al- though described in the metropolitan press as appearing in 'her favorite eiei blue" at q dinner sivsn by her confining herself strictly to white or black evening gowns. Last eve- ming as hostess at . dinner company or l00, her gown was white velvet on the slim long lines she wears to per. lection; with the bse of the skirt white fur. Several strands of pearls and diamond bandeau in her blonde hair carried out the snow queen ef- feet
 Mrs. Kenna Elkins at Mrs. Letters ball. wore very smart and equally becoming gown of gold cloth, pat 3erned in vague lowered effect of plo buue and pink, o mere suggestion pf collar that might be lost across the width of a drawing room except for the huge velvet flowers holding . the drapery on the left hip and the lining of the very graceful train in rich new blue.
 Mrs. John Balentine Pilney of New Jersey, the youngest, and some per- sons say the handsomest of. the late Col. John R. Williams three 'daugh- ters, looked especially charming on recent visit-to her mother. in . ball gown of lace, the metal being dull finished but most effective. The skirt was a round deep nounce with sclightly draped tunic also of founc- ing.
 The deep rose tone made in France and thus far without imitation in American dyes which is shown in Mrs. Warburton's frock, is also seen in chiffon gown worn by Miss Elizabeth Hubbard of West Virginia, who made her first formal appear ance in society a few weeks ago at beautifully appointed tea given in her honor by Mrs. Kenna Elkins, the latter also West Virginian by birth.
 Mrs. Reynolds Hit, very attrac- tive young matron in her own right, and mother of one of the most en- tertaining debutantes of the year, wears a draped but entirely un- adorned gown of cerese velvet with hosiery and the plainest of satin slippers in matching shade.
 Miss Hit, whose coming out gowns are either PaAs made or the best