The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-11-09
Fashions For The
 Well Dressed .f Woman
By MARGARET WADE

tRe Qay-alCuOugu Il receHL uioulsh 'io- itor from New York declares Washing hind the fashions as accepted in New York or created in Paris.
 In fashionable companies in Wash ington, skirts still reach to within ten, sometimes eight inches of the floor, which says the visitor from New York is four to six inches too long.
 Then too, one occasionally meets a woman of established position and bank account quite equal to replenishing wardrobe every three months, who wears sleeves half way between wrist and elbow-which no one with any pretention to fashion would think ot doing in New York, all of which goes to prove that the average Washing tonian maid or matron has the cour- aGe of her opinions and rises superior to Dame Fashion on many occasions.
 Mrs. Coolidge has always dressed simply and in excellent taste, just as Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt did when she was mistress of the White House.
 Mrs. Coolidge has put aside all color and is wearing all black, all white or very well balanced toilet in which slight lines of white relieve the dead UldCk FOWL OI UT CNCuIuS.
 What is presumably her smartest afternoon toilet, a& she wore it to Miss Beatrice's Peck's wedding, is an en- sample frock of light weight silk finished cloth with long collar of the unspotted ermine, and a round hat in her favorite shape with straight brim of black silk faced in white crepe de chine.
 Mrs. Coolidge's skirts are as rule eight inches from the floor, with the trim black suit in which she takes her morning constitutional in Potamac Park, two inches shorter.
 Madame Jusserand, who is shortly to leave Washington for good, after some 20 seasons as an important figure in its official life where her husband has served as ambassador from France since 1903, is looking extremely we'll in the smart new clothes which she brought with her from Paris in the early autumn, and which may safely be taken as guide to correct dress ing by day or by evening.
 4 very becoming costume worn at the British Embassy for formal lunch con, also to one of the recent fashion able weddings, shows the new coat ouAS oo ulIlS lHlcTpT6lS lIllS nlOuP. The material is black satin, the embellish- ment the last word in geometrical em- broidery in silk, with French blue. white and silver forming the hard and last lines covering the coat in from the cage which is just below the hip, mid ! way between waist and shoulder. There IS also deep band of the embroidery towards the top of the narrow skirt Wnlch IS straight in line and narrow put not snort, according to present day standards. The coat has the new high collar and long close sleeves. The hal worn with this is also of the formal type, high crowned, narrow brimmed beaver trimmed in cocque feathers which stand upright.
 Mrs. Frederick Dent Grant is wear;no tnls same hat which is a new version or the English walking hat of many years ago, with a softer plume than on Mme. Jusserand's hat, which falls slight iy of the brim. Mrs. Grant wears >Shis with an all black toilet gown and cape. anu :, Mrs: Robert Woods Bliss, wife of the minister of Sweden, at home on a SIX weeks leave of absence gives her approval to the red ingote, also to the nat not Of contrasting color. Mrs. Bliss. Who was the guest of Mrs. Coolidge at the first symphony concert of the sea son, wore this well matched costume of the new soft brown cloth, with a hat or 1eit In round crowned shape very sort in outline, with long, full ostrich plume falling off the side.
 Brown to be smart-when it is very smart lndeed-must be of the imported shade known by several names but which eo rne average American eye seems based on the familiar chocolate diluted to pale creamy tone or dark as strong coffee but always without any tint of red.
 The brown khasha cloth worn by Miss Kitty van Heukelom of New York iunchlng at the Hotel Hamilton where she IS with her grandmother, Mrs. Hen ry Selgman, for weeks stay, is one Of the best examples of the new brown combined with an Egyptian coloring giving a very youthful note to the sub- dued tone. Miss van Heukelon's frock was short and close with rather full long sleeves. The latter were banded Tn the Egyptian coloring from elbow to wrist, while the single broad sash end that hung from the left side was of the gay tone for 10 to 12 inches.
 The youthful round hat was several tones deeper than the gown trimmed en- ureiy Tn narrow ribbon yards and yards Of It In loops and ends covering the orlm and falling low in the back.
 Miss Aleda Henrequies, in spite of her foreign name, a native Washington Ian and granddaughter of General Scott, whose name and equestrian statue mark the most fashionable resident circle. is wearing the ultra smart combina tion in brown and gray in a hat right from farls. The shape is round, plain and medium sized of the chocolate colored felt. The trimming is in broad folds of platinum colored satin laid in two very broad folds about the corner in bateau line.
 Mrs. Chandler Anderson, always smartly gowned, is especially chic in black cloth one-piece frock showing the Jabot closing at the left side. This IS emphasized by sash of white and black silk in small figures that appar- ently ties the skirt just below the waist line then falls in irregular pointed ends below the edge of the hem. Grey suede shoes with matching hoisery and a soft formal hat of French felt also in the dove gray with gray gloves completed the costume.
 The vogue of white and black found two notable sponsors last week, Mrs. Elliot Wadsworth and Mrs. John F. A. Cecil, wearing up-to-the-minute aft ernoon frocks with background embroid- cred in large conventionalized floral pat tern in white silk. Both young mat rons completed these costumes with