davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1924-09-30
TODAY'S ADJUSTMENTS.

NATIONAI-"The Ten Command
ments," photoplay, at 2:3o and $3.50
pm.
POLI'S-"wildf1ower musical COM
edy, at $50 pm.
BELASCO-'TheF Fake" comedy, at
SEQ pm.
kEITH'S-Belle Baker, vaudeville,
at 2:15 and S:15 pm.
STRAND Venetian MasQuerad-
ers," vaudeville, continuous perform
ance from 1880 to IL pm.
GAYETY-"Silk Stockings Revue"
burlesque, at 2:15 and Sis pm.
MUTUAI-"Round the Town." bur-
lesque, at 2:20 and $40 pm.
RIALTO-Marion Davies, in "Yo-
anda." photoplay, at 1905 am, I :O5,
5:0o. sos. 1908 and 9:05 pm.
METROPOLITAN" Hollywood
with Potash and Perlmutter." at l1:4O
am, lao, 3:45, 5:35, 7:4O and 9:45 pm
PALACE-"Sinners in Heaven" at
ll:20, leo, $3.50. $40, 1880 and $40
pm.
COLI MBIA-"The Covered Wagon
(Second week) at 1850 am, 1850, ),
sos, 5:10 and 9:l5 pm.
TIVOLI-"Fools in the Dark" at
l:35, $40, 5:35. 7:40 and 9:45 pm.
AMBASSADOR In Hollywood
With Potash and Perlmutter," at 6:I5,
7:50 and 9:2O pm.
Evening star., 1924-09-30
The Golden Days.

The grand old times Of which VIC
read, in tales by Scott and James,
when knight went forth on prancing
feed to play his doughty games !!
he grand Old times when kings and
teens, bejeweied. hcaved their
ighs, because they had no window
Screens to thwart the ding-donged
flies. hing Henry. with his cloth of
gold. and velvet rugs outspread, and
gaudy splcndors manifold, with
rushlight went to bed. His palace
had d gricvous stink. dogs fed on
o;vcry floor: it had no stove, no
Kitchen sink, no mailbox by the
door. The knight might own
stock OF bones. and yet. what could
he buy: No radio. no telephones.
root beer or whiskers dye. The
knight was clad i'll arnor bright
that gave a martial ring; but when
he would dlsrobe al night. it was
another thing. He had to call
serving wench when reaching his
hotel. and she. with AK and monkey
wrench would ease him from his
shell. When am reading those old
tales. with all their brave array of
stately danes and fighting males.
sometimes sigh and say: Il would
that | with knights might prance.
in my large pewter hat! The world
is shorn OF its romance-it's dull
and tame and fat" But when I
think of bolted pants and shirts of
soldered tin boost with rapture
to my aunts, the age we're living in.
(CopyrightD WALT MASON.
Evening star., 1924-09-30

For "Her" Birthdny.
Guides PrlZ.- winning American Beau-
ty Roses. l2l2 F.--Aovt.
Evening star., 1924-09-30
RULES ON RESERVE
! OFFICERS REVISED
Appointments, Training and
s. Promotion Covered in
New Regulations.

Regulations for reserve officers of
the Army have been revised by the
General staff Of the Army in the mat
Iers of appointment, training. promo
1on, etc, and will be issued within
the next few weeks. An auxiliary
section of the corps has been created
whereby reserve officers who other
wise would be retired for age or dis
ability may be retained in the serv-
Ice of the United States.
The War Department is now de-
termininG th officer qualifications
for all grades and branches in the
military service. Under the revised
regulations. reserve officer who has
passed the required examination and
completed the necessary work will be
given certificate OF capacity FOR pro-
motion. but Will not be promoted un-
til an actual vacancy exists for him
in the Army of the United States.
Term of Service Varied.
Heretofore d reserve officer was re-
quired to serve a specified time in
each grade. The new regulations re
tain this principle. but the time to be
served is varied for each grade in ac-
tordance with scientific system of
promotion. which will operate to pro-
duce the proper proportion of officers
in all grades
Another feature pt tne promotion
regulations is that World War Off
GERS OF mature age need not serve
the full specified time in grade. As
an example. a major IS years of age
will not be called upon To serve three
Years a ma jOr. ii he is able to COM
nlete the work required and pass the
eXamina ton for certificate OF capac-
ity to be lieutenant colonel He
Will be promoted as soon as he Sc
cures this certificate. provided va
cancy exists to which he may be as
signed
Credit for Guard Service.
Special procedure is provided for
the appointment of reserve officers
as brigadier generals and major gem
erals. Under the new regulations
reserve officers will be appointed
brigadier generals after passing
military eXanIination. the scope of
which viii -. announced several
months in advance. The final part of
this examination will be a test in the
actual command of a brigade of reg
ular troops. An alternative system
is provided in tha- the examination
for bri-adier general may be waived
if the reserve officer attends the full
course at the Command and General
staff School at Fort LeavenWurth.
That school produced the great ma
jority of Regular Army officers who
demonstrated ability to command
troops during the World War.
Provision also has been made in
the new regulations to give full
credit for service in the National
Guard and the Regular Army to for
Eier officers of these CUmponentS
when they apply for commissions as
reserve officers.
Evening star., 1924-09-30
DANCING.

DANISON'S Teach you to dance cor
reCtly in few lessons
rRoF. MRS. Strictly private; any hour
132a NJ st. NV. Glass aud dance Sat
MAIN 1882 day Eve with orchestra.
Normal Cour>e-SCaSon's new dances
''CoIlcEiate,' "Foxtrot,' Tango" Waltz"
Evening star., 1924-09-30

Al the golden wedding of couple in
England the brides mother at 93 helped
her 70-yea r-old daughter and son-in-iaw
of - to entertain the many guests.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Victorian PaIlOr Has Passed:
Warmer Tones Prevail

Fashions in face powders change
as definitely, if not so frequently,
as do fashions in clothes. Fur
thermore, they have a significance
all their own. They are the mir
ror in which are reflected the
changing tastes of women.
Our grandmothers used dead
white powder because the ideal o.
that time was a ladylike languor
and an interesting pallor. 1t was
not considered the thing for wom-
en- to work or to indulge in vio-
lent sports, and so white face pow
ders and light rouges were used
to blend with or simulate the deli
cate pink and white compilations.
Nowadays women 80 in for sports
and other active pursuits and the
ideal of feminine beauty has
changed. Painting has gone out of
date along with small waists and
the six-inch heel, and consequent
ly modern makeup is darkened &c
blend with the healthy outdoor
skin of the contemporary sports
woman.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

would consider Madame demode
because the color or embroidery
of her undervest did not conform
to the latest mandate of the mode
The lines the thing and it must
rigidly follow the outline and the
borderline of the dress. Let no
undervest be straight-necked wher
it should be V-shapeG-nothing is
more dismal than an otherwise in-
maculately clad woman who shows
an obstinate ribbon peering oct
through the decolletage.
Two necklines predominant in
the new lingerie ID the almost
total exclusion of all others. The
bateau outline continues in high
favor and the V-shaped neckl!ne
is also being widely featured by
Paris couturiers. This latter ter
dency is accounted for by the tai
lored suit vogue and the dog
matte adherence to the youthful
silhouette.
1t is at once patent that the
lingerie beneath the evening
gown transcends in Importance all
other undertakings. Not much OF
it is worn in conjunction with the
spring robes de soir, yet that 1T
tie may add infinitely to the APP
pearance of the costume. The
smooth line of the figure-conform-
ing evening gown eliminates both
bustline and waistline from the
enlargement, inasmuch as there
is a total absence of these in the
dress itself. From shoulder to hip
all of the Paris lingerie for spring
is cut on a single, unbroken line
Indeed, so important is the main.
tenance of this unbroken line thai
many of the leading Paris coutu.
riers insist upon making specia
undergarments to accompany theii
evening dresses.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

goes in for the activities which
these sports clothes connote-
walking, golfing, tennis, skating
and the like. The girl who in
dulges in these pursuits knows
that her complexion will naturally
DC healthy, tanned tone with a
touch of pink or red. Therefore
6 dead white powder would be in
appropriate-what is needed is a
warm tone of powder or rouge 70
blend with natures own pigments.
If one hasn't the naturally heal
thy outdoor complexion and ye.
desires to assume the role, the
proper makeup is even more es-
sential., So clever chemists have
provided richer and warmer tones
of powder for both the real out
door girl and the girl who merely
wants to look the part. A popu-
lar tint is peaches, cream color
with a tannish tinge which gives
the desired outdoor effect. Even
ruddier tones are predicted and it
would seem that in our complex
ions we are gradually approximate
ing the coppery ideal Of the Amer
lean Indian.
White powder still exists, OF
course, but is used Correctly now
only by women with exotic, Ian
guild skins, or possibly with dis
cretion for evening when a par
ticular frock demands a skin OF
marble pallor.
The woman who makes an art
of beauty cannot depend upon a
single powder for her varied tot
lettes. There are the elements OF
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

bound woman who refuses to vary
the custom of years.
Laces of every description
Chantilly, Alencon and Valen-
ciennes-are sparingly used. The
white lave of last season is being
gradually replaced by ecru - it
blends more tremendously with
the complete range of pastel
substantially apricot and or
chid-which color the undergar-
ment.
But it is not fabric nor EN-
broidery nor color that distin-
guishes the lingerie of the current
season-the silhouette is the all
important influence and its sue
ecssful outline demands the most
careful selection of these dainty
fragilities.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

derthings as an essential part of
her line. On today's page are
models from Worth, Premet, the
two Medicines, Molyneux and
Philippe ct CASTOR, and they en-
body style features which are just
as definite and different as the
new dress and suit fashions.
Fabrics vary in weavings, but
are alike in texture, which is al
ways supple to the point of being
delicate. Among the silks, creme
satin, georgette and silk crepe pre-.
dominate, while the outstanding
cotton fabric is wolfe, preferably
the triple wolfe which is almost
cobwebby in its appearance.
Linen has become & dead issue
it exists now only for the habit
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

lighting and costume to be consid
cred in relation to makeup. The
tannish powder that gives the skin
a healthy tone by day is quite
often too dark at night, when to
keep pace with more feminine
frocking, the need Of delicate pink
and white in place CT ruddy and
sunburned health is apparent.
And so the up-to-date powderer
keeps on her dressing table two
or three boxes of different shades,
cleverly blending her colors to
suit the time, the place and the
clothes.
The genre of costume material
ly influences the type of makeup.
The woman who ordinarily uses
medium tone powder and rouge
may decide to wear a gorgeous
red brocaded velvet gown Of Span
;sh inspiration and feel that a
more exotic effect in complexion
will accentuate the beauty of her
gown. So she chooses the warm
powders and the orange rouges to
add a Southern reflection. On
the other hand, with a pastel
shade dancing dress, she will
! probably prefer to be more deli
cately tinted.
Styles in rouge have changed
essentially in the last few years.
The ugly purplish tone which
looked like the first dull rising
flush of anger has passed from
the picture-it has been succeeded
by tintings that match the natural
healthy color of the face. An in
teresting example of this is the
orange tone rouge which has late
ly been introduced. 1t is very
saucy, very intriguing and offers
a chance for daring evening eff
fects. This warm orange color
gives to the dark-haired beauty a
Spanish suggestion and to the
blonde a piquant naughtiness OF
complexion.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

ty is the abiding characteristic of
every type of UNDERLYING which is
being shown at the present Paris
openings. The spring silhouette
has reached the acme of narrow
ness and only the daintiest gar
ments will not disturb the calm
unruffled outline of the day. Fer
the merest ripple is sufficient to
undo the effect of the most care
fully planned dress, and any bulky
bit of lingerie is certain to cause
such a rift.
Not even the most ardent Of
the fashionable Parisiennes
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Colors in Face Powders
Harmonic With Costume.

There is always tha question of
appropriateness to be considered.
No we'll dressed woman would wear
a sports hat with lace dress or
high-heeled slippers with knitted
suit, and conversely the facial
makeup should harmonic with
the costume. If one wears sports
clothes the assumption is that one
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Paris Says

The tubular silhouette, the low
waistline and the boyish tailleur
are the three outstanding notes of
the Paris spring openings. Some
of the principal themes empha-
sized by prominent French cou-
turiers follow:
The house of Dreccll has male
its typical outline short as well as
slender. The waist is long and
low and the skirt is not quite as
narrow as the usual model of the
season. Various pleatings as well
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Underthings for Spring Are
Filmy Replicas of the Figure
Models From Leading Couturiers Tinted Deep Pink
and Orchid Shades-Ecru Laces Replace
White on New Garments.

dependent entirely upon the mold
Of the figure, which in turn was
straight-laced into the modish
curves of the moment by a heavily
boned corset. Lingerie bore lit
tie relation. to the changing cap
rices of fashion-it was distinct
ly utilitarian article-warm, COM
Portable and ever so mid-Victo.
rian.
Today, though undertakings are
worn much more sparingly, theii
importance has increased in an in
verse ratio. To be correctly
dressed is entirely p1edicated OF
being correctly under dressed. The
Amazon outline, the waspish waist
have given way permanently t
the natural figure, and ever!
small detail is an essential to tn,
ensemble. Whence the paramount
Importance of correct lingerie
whose modern raison d'etre is alb
solute conformance to the line
of the outer clothes.
An almost gossamer-like fragili
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
the Lingerie Lies in Its Lines

as numerous scarf effects sound
the principal decorative note.
The slender, lorg-waisted sill
houette is presented by Doucet.
who breaks the monotony Of the
straight, unbroken ;ile by the adj
dition of low flare to the skrrs
Fringe, bead embroideries, ostrich
and fur are the principal trim
ming Celebrations in this collec-
ton. Crepe georgette ard metal
brocades are the important fabrics
for evening wear.
Variations of .Straigb.
And Marrow Silhouette.
Floating panels. pleated or
gathered, feature the new evening
model by Beer, VINO manipulates
them to vary the straight and
slender effect. The waistline is
either entirely absent or very
family marked-when present it is
unusually low, even for this epoch
of low-waisted dresses. Navy blue
is the outstanding daytime color
of the Beer collection and is fire.
quently trimmed with red and en-
broidered in Russian motifs.
Pleats are favoNe1 by Premet,
who varies her straight-line mod
els with an occasional circular
flounce. The short skirt and the
two-piece tailleur occupy prom.
inent places in the spring showing
of this designer, as each of these
emphasizes the youthful outline
always favored by Premet.
Circular effects are banned by
Agnes, whose spring collection
features the narrow silhouette
characteristic of the new season.
In their stead numerous variations
of the panel are introduced as
well as an occasional tunic. Red,
white and black are the dominant
colors with this designer, the white
and black for evening and after
noon, respectively. Red appears
as a trimming on both back
grounds.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Linen Has Given Way
To Silks and Voiles.

1t must not be inferred from
this, however, that the prominent
French designers confine their lir-
gerie offerings to the evening
gown adjunct. For the last few
seasons practically every dress
maker in Paris has included I'M
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

The function Of lingerie has un-
dergone a complete metamorpho-
sis during recent years. In the
days when the statuesque Gibson
girl type swished aer voluminous
presence into a decorous ballroom
the feminine silhouette was a
stilted, artificial affair. 1t was
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02

Belop-A lace trimmed slip of
salmon pint satin from Worth
10 be morn NTH the slim tube
dress. The culottes are Of phite
linen NTH shadow embroidery
and Irish lace edging
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Simplicity Rules
in Negligees of
Richest Fabrics
Prototype of Tailored Suit
Found in Mannish Bou-
doir Gown Made on Plain
Lines.

The far-reaching vogue for
simplicity can be better appreciate
ed when it is known that the sill
houette of the new negligees alsn
shuns elaboration. For the des-
habille, which by its very nature
should be simple, has in the past
been ornate. Yet so intense is the
present urge toward simplicity
that even the ancient dogma Of
the mode cannot withstand it. And
the negligee has succumbed along
with dress, suit and coat.
The simple silhouette is absolute
occasionally it is varied by a
TERED effect of a gathered flounce
but the basic outline is ever pres
cnt. The waist portion fits loose
ly, sleeves are wide and there IS
no suggestion of narrowness
above the waistline. From that
point on the robe d'interieur con-
forms to the accepted lines of the
formal costume-it is close fitting
and wraps snugly, about the hips.
The coat model is popular ex-
emplification of the new mode,
with its traverse front fastened by
a girdle to give a slender effect.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1924-03-02
Lame Models Trimmed
With Ostrich Marabou.

The mannish boudoir gown, an
example OF -Ehich Is sketched at
the upper right corner Of today's
page, is the informal prototype At
the tailored suit. There is a bov-
ish charm about it which is par
ticularly appealing 70 the UNDER
graduate, either for her moments
of case or her hours of study.
The fabric of the spring negli.
gee exhibits an entirely diverse
tendency from the silhouette.
There is not even the fainter. sug.
gestion of suppression and the
most luxurious and ornate cloths
are employed to offset the plain
outline.
Rich brocades and lanes ara
sponsored by leading French
houses, the lanes often in multi.
colored effects trimmed with tint.
ed marabou or ostrich. The col.
orings of the brocades are worked
out with careful detail-pale blue
is lined with purple, while yellow
is the lining for a black and gold
combination.
The Filer record. (Filer, Idaho) 1919-1930, 1924-07-10
Small Boys Excuse
Auailed Him Not

There is one small boy In Kansas
City. says the Star, who remembers
the Shrine convention with tinge OF
sadness. When Uncle Jack. who
helped tell us how the corn grows In
I-o-way. wrote that he would visit BIZ
ly's family during the convention, BIZ
lys mother made three-tier choco-
late cake that was a work OF art.
After that long march uncle was 10 be
dined and refreshed properly.
There had been SO much talk OF the
appearance OF the wonderful cake that
Billy knew that. no matter how much
he might be tempted. he mustn't spoil
that. But what would be the harm
In lifting on that top layer, cutting n
grand big piece out OF the center OF
the other two layers and then putting
the top on In place againf
The scheme worked beautifully I'M
III his mothers knife went through
the top OF the cake and struck the
empty plate beneath with slckenlng,
hollow sound.
Later Uncle Jack heard sounds that
took him back TO his boyhood days,
and between sobs, "Well. ] didn't spoil
the looks Of the old cake anyway"
The Filer record. (Filer, Idaho) 1919-1930, 1924-07-10
BAPTIST MINISTER GIVES
TANLAC FULL CREDIT

No greater praise can be accorded
a medicine than the voluntary testi-
mony of minister OF the gospel. The
preachers high calling puts grave
responsibility on his every word. and
he win not jeopardize his reputation
by commencing thing without first
assuring himself II is all right.
Tanlac has been endorsed by num-
bers OF prominent ministers. They
have put Tanlac 10 the test OF per
sonal service and their words carry
conviction because they say what they
know 10 be the truth.
One Of the latest 10 speak out In
behalf OF Tanlac Is Rev. II. Il. Bell. a
retired Baptist minister, 207 Elm ST..
San Antonio. Texas, who says:
Before taking Tanlac l had suf-
fered from stomach and nerve trou-
bles for over 30 years and there were
times when my condition was such
that II required almost superhuman
effort for me 10 prepare my sermons
and so through with my Sunday serv-
The Filer record. (Filer, Idaho) 1919-1930, 1924-07-10
WHY DRUGGISTS RECOMMEND
SWAMP ROOT

For many years druggists have watched
with much interest the remarkable record
maintained by DR.. Kilmer's swsmp-Root,
the great kidney, liver and bladder medi-
cine.
II IL physicians prescription.
Swamp-Root Is a Strengthening medi-
cine. II helps the kidneys, liver and
bladder do the work nature intended they
should do.
Swamp Root has stood the test Of years.
II is said by all druggists on it, merit and
II should help you. No other kidney mcdi.
cine has 70 many friends.
BE sure 20 get Swamp-Root and start
treatment az once.
However, IL you wish first Z test this
great preparation, send ten cents 20 DIR.
kilmer a Co. Binghamton, n. Y, for a
sample bottle When writing, be sure
and mention this pspcr.-Advertiseme
The Filer record. (Filer, Idaho) 1919-1930, 1924-07-10

to Williams. They were engineers.
not politicians.
The first night that Williams and
Wells slept in the little house In Fush-
Xxi which they used until a shack
could be built for them. they were
awakened many times. A score Of
men were outside-neyer TO be seen.
for the night was Oakland finally
Williams came into the others room.
whats IT they say, Bob7" he asked
nervously.
"Oni wato sotoi Translated, II Is c
gentle little phrase which means out.
devilsF"
Tell them to get away from the
windows and let US sleep"
Wouldn't do a darn bit Of good.
This is a holiday for them All they'd
do would be TO climb up on a roof and
pitch rocks at the panels And paper
doesn't stop the sort Of granite / no
tice around here. Go TO sleep and
forget It. They'll tire before morn
ing
Marakito found many little ways to
hamper the Sanderson job. Sacks Of
concrete disappeared, TO filter away in
the water. when most needed. The
donkey engine missed. as Wells re-
marked, either a leg or an ear every
night, and the wires were kept hot
with orders for more parts. until Cor
don wanted to know n the boys we're
opening a machine shop or building a
bridge.
Williams busted himself with the in
side work. when the laborers quit.
between two days. not even asking Tor
pay. Wells bred more when they
announced that they. also. would labor
no more. he cursed them. their ances-
tors. their family gods. and then
brought In new coolies from Osaka
Long fingers Of tresties crepf along
the brown sand The FIRST bridge Of
the series already spanned the inlet
Of FushIkL Reading the reports, Sand
erson grinned Three days ahead Of
schedule.
Il was on the night that Wells left
Tor osaka to superintend and person