The Birmingham age-herald., 1924-08-17

was AuChy< III my Vza1 sA1C1g f50Y/--Ss companion. Not only was Mir. Zulo- aga (who has fought himself and knows all there is to know about bull fightingl, with me, but in addition there was Belmonte, the most famous and popular matador of Spain. Belmonte is thirty-seven and has killed 3,200 bulls and I am told is the most courage ous and graceful matador known in Spain for twenty-five years. He rarely fights now owing to his wife's terror of the sport, but both he and his wife promised me that if ever went to &c., vile would see him fight. Belmonte is very small and yet he gives decided impression of power. He has a promi- nent chin, reminding one somewhat of the King of Spain, large, direct, brown eyes and many scars. He speaks neither English or French, so I could not talk with him.
 The drive to Pamplona is remarkably beautiful; you go up high mountains and through ravine, along cool lit tie mountain river. When we arrived in the principal square of the town I really felt that I must be dreaming. The square and cafes were packed with men and women Gall the men wearing .the Basque cap, as they do everywhere around here) all talking, drinking, sing ing, and dancing. They dance steadily from Saturday night till week from the next Monday! Every now and then one would hear a drum and a penny whistle or mouth organ, and preceding the men playing the instruments would be fifteen or twenty men dancing alone or together, crossing the square, for wards and backwards, turning around and around, like nothing in the world but children at play, never disagree able, always happy, and mad for ten whole days. It seems they never go to bed during this fete, and some of them literally collapse at the end, but what do they care for that? They are happy Spaniards.
 Our progress to the cafe where we were to lunch was difficult, for Bel monte, a veritable idol of the people, was stopped on all sides; but we final ly reached there. The bull fight was not to begin until 5 80 o'clock, so our party, joined by some other Spaniards, ate very leisurely lunch on the side walk of the cafe. Considering the mobs and thoroughly hectic atmosphere, I thought the lunch amazingly well served and very excellent.
 About 4 o'clock Zuloaga decided that must see the Cathedral, not only on account of its beauty, but because of the strange contrast of seeing first a cathedral and then a bull fight. So we walked through the little side streets, filled, like the square, with singing, dancing, playing men, and arrived d the cathedral. It is beautiful edifice You enter through a patio with little garden. Beautiful grilles and an altar all silver and gold are the outstanding features; and there is a very fine and early wooden Christus. I stood for some time in front of this, absorbed, ] must confess, not so much by the Christus as by an old peasant woman praying in front of it, kneeling on one of the steps, with her arms, as nearly as her age would permit, in the position of Christ on the cross. When first saw her I could not believe she was alive, 80 still she was, and when left after ten minutes left her as still as when I arrived. am told the Span iards pray like that sometimes for an hour.
 I had gone all around the cathedral and was just nearing the door to leave when I saw priest come up to Mrs Belmonte, wife of the famous matador and speak with what seemed to be great anger Entirely mystified was watch ing her put on a coat she had on her arm when the priest rushed up to me and began pushing me to the door pointing to my arms and looking at me as if I were the devil himself come to life. I then realized that Mrs. Bel. monte and I were wearing short sleeves! The whole party, including the Spaniards, were much amused al my eviction from the church on ac. count of those inadequate sleeves! ] could not help laughing myself.
 We resolved to find more sympathetic surroundings and accordingly set out for the bull fight.