The Birmingham age-herald., 1923-12-09
heightened SkirtIs Be- ing Repudiated By
 Smart Dresses
By MARGARET WADE

&\ &O0~0
 By MARGARET WADE
 WASHINGTON. Dec. S.-The opening of Congress and half dozen or so really smart afternoon receptions all empnasize the state ment made last week that every woman who gives thought to her wardrobe can be modishly dressed and in style suited to her individ- ual type.
 The heightened skirt, for example. which all slender women know adds years to their appearance with every inch, is being repudiated before it was well established by such well known leaders as the Baroness de Cartoer, Mrs. Henry May, Mme. Hague, and other discriminating women who order their clothes direct from Paris and are universally acknowledged the best dressed wom- en in Washington. The Baroness de Cartier, who at the time of her mar riage few years ago to the min ister from Belgium, was Mrs. Hamil- ton Wilks Cary of New York and Paris, wore recently for morning walk on Connecticut avenue, a se- Verely tailored coat and skirt of black cloth 1usterless and soft fin tshed, in the new material that is the successor of duvetyne and a very distant relation to the rich, silky broadcloth we used to wear with pride. The suit has a narrow close skirt, fully 12 inches from the ground, while the coat comes to the knees with a decided flare from a well defined waistline. The collar short and rounded in front, is of white fur, not unspotted ermine, but just as white. It may be superla lively fine pussy cat, this being one of the furs much in use in Paris. A large white blossom in the lapel of the coat carried out the white and black effect. The hat was of the finest French felt in small, round semi-sport shape and all black. The Baroness wore low black shoes and gray silk stockings and white doe skin gloves.
 MRS. MAYS CHIC SUIT
 Mrs. Henry Mays chic suit also noted on Connecticut avenue, was a loose weave cloth in cream color with hair lines of several pastel tones, mauve and pink predominant ing, crossing each other in irregular lines. This too has a close plain skirt and a coat coming half way to the knees. Mrs. Mays skirt was probably seven inches off the ground revealing the new wool hosiery which matches the skirt. Her shoes
 
 hat, round shape with dropping brim of black velvet trimmed in a double roll of dull brown velvet.
 Mime. Hauge. widow of the form CT minister from Norway, but an American born in Kentucky and later resident of New York, was one of the first Washington leaders to adopt the. short skirt of decade ago and has jnever abandoned the fash ion. An all-black visiting toilet Of this worn by Mime. Hauge shows the hem of the skirt fully eight inches off the ground. She wears the same low, black shoes as the Baroness de Cartier. but with hosiery of new tan rather than gray. Her hat is small and close, of black. Among the younger 1eaders-debutantes- girls in their second season, and a few young matrons, the short skirt is still holding it's own.
 MISS srADoO's COSTUME
 Miss SeIly McAdoo. daughter of the former Secretary of the Treasury. on a weekend visit from Bryn Mawr to her particular friend and former class mate, Miss Helen Carusi, wore for the few afternoon visits she con- sented to make, the smartest sort of a blue serge one-pfece frock, eight inches off the ground In the straight. and narrow silhouette, but topped the gown with a black fur jacket, hip length and flaring at the hem. Her shoes were 1ow-heeled@ colonials and her hat a small. round affair of black felt with high, narrow 4crown and dropping brim. Its only trim7 ming was a band of gros- grain ribbon and narrow loops of the same falling off the right side.
 VELVET GOWNS POPULAR
 Although we hear of returning simplicity for the debutante and her not much older sister, velvet gowns continue to hold first place with many of these young persons with affluent and indulgent parents.
 Miss Helen Carusi at recent luncheon wore sapphire blue velvet in a semi-coat model just from fa- nous Paris maker with small soft hat to match. The gown with long sleeves close at the wrist had collar and cuffs of ermine and the hat veil of blue lace worn across the crown to fall to the shouled at either side.
 Miss Helen Strauss, daughter of Rear Admiral and Mrs. Joseph Strauss, whose formal debut Is set for December 22, Is wearing variety of charming gowns, including visit ing or luncheon costume of bottle green satin like the above blue vel vet made in France. This is a one pice ungirdled frock with the new sleeve banded at the wrist with dark gray fox A collar of the same fur finishes the top of the own with which Miss Strauss wears fascinat- ing hat of bronze velvet in the pre- vailing close mode with the soft brim rolled iron. the front. An antique buckle of gold and jade holds the edge of the brim from which falls a spray of dark green coque feathers.
 The coloring of this costume is especially becoming to Admiral Strauss young daughter. whose hair is wonderful bronze tone that dis tinquishes her from several of her sister buds in the front rank of American Beauties.
 MISS LEJENUNE's DEBUT
 Miss Eugenia Lejeune, youngest Laughter of Gen. John A. Lejeune, vember 30, with all the eclat of the ball at marine headquarters on No vember 30, filth all the eclat of the Marine corps, including its famous band to add to the occasion, was charming picture of her own great grandmother, or some belle of that period, in a gown of white satin bro- caded in silver with the long fitted bodice and full round skirt to the ankles. She carried out the revived fashion in a, bouquet of tea roses and yiolets and wore her hair in graceful close waves without the mature ban deau or head dress which some of her contemporaries have borrowed from the older generation. a
 Miss Natalie Hammond at this dance also wore a full skirted frock attached to the close bodice, but in black velvet embroidered from the top of the hem to the waistsin heavy q fr was covered by a broad band of black fur. With this the petite Miss Ham mond wore a scarf and Spanish shawl of many colors with back ground and