davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
MANY INFLUENCES COMBINE
TO SET THE SEASONS STYLES

the old order changeth, giving
place to new" in fashion, we ac
= cept each passing change with
interest, yet never, or at least but
rarely, wonder why" the newest
mode. In reality the study of the
evolution of the mode is fascinating,
for it is, as a rule, the old, SO long
fallen into disuse that it becomes new
again. A glimpse at the fashion plates
of bygone centuries reveals much that
is familiar, for old Greece and Rome.
the Egyptian dynasties, the Middle
Ages, the Renaissance, have contrib
uted much to the fashion of present
day garments and accessories. We
have not copied the huge, starched
ruffs, the outrageous head dresses or
crinolines, but we have chosen a de-
tail here and there to achieve a desired
effect. nor have we hesitated in our
outright appropriation of the fashion
foibles of some long past period. If
you glance back over the past few
seasons you will see that nearly every
change has been in detail. rather than
in general design. The silhouette's
the thing, and that has been uniformly
slender, though many methods have
been used to attain that slenderness.
New fabrics come, and they are well
come; new colors greet us. new trim
mings and methods of applying them,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

there Is hardly noticeable difference
in shape-not quite as wide. perhaps,
but wide enough for the weight of
it's trimming and picturesqueness
There's a distinctly new note in the
smart, rather trying shape, that
chooses to be very airy as to brim,
wintry as to crown, and pert as TO
trimming. 1t reminds one just little
of wartime shapes, when fashion was
as devoted to smart lines and tailored
effects as were the makers of uni
forms. In this case the designer may
have started to make a small hat, for
it is not hard to visualize the shape
without the broad lace brim, then
added the flare as an afterthought
and made a semi-formal hat from
daytime model. The band about the
face is most unusual, and is the type
of detail that would be either very
smart and becoming to the wearer or
hideously unbecoming. A careful
choice is made imperative by the very
simplicity of these models. since Sc
we're, Interchangeable lines must be alb
solutely correct, il they are to be
successful.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

of hat, since it seems to realize that
the -the-face effect would be try
ing to more than it would be becom-
ing, so it adds a suggestion of a brim
to make certain its success. A tiny
band of ribbon, made of contrasting
shades in very narrow width, adds
the necessary finish to the front and
quill, placed Just So" lifts the
model from mediocrity to unusually.
The New Developed From the Old
The hat of velvet and embroidery is
not so very different as to shape from
others we have seen-and worn-but
it achieves undoubted individuality
through the application of it's trim
ming. The round crown and round.
dropping brim is a universally becom-
ing style. SO why should it be elimi-
mated just because it is familiar? 1t
may be adapted In a score of different
ways, and this particular hat Is proof
of it's latent possibilities. Chain stitch
embroidery in contrasting color rims
the brim edge and bands the crown.
The same motif, applied to Rlvet.
fashioned into a rosette and Land on
fatty, tailored fashion, attains the
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

they present the same appearance
as any other garment of their kind.
| Whether one prefers cape or a
top coat for her outer wrap. she may
possess it in a waterproofed material,
fashioned along lines that are no diff
ferent from the sports models so gen.
orally in use. 1t may be that collar
and sleeves are strapped a little more
securely-if it's a coat; or the cape
buttons little lower than is usually
the swagger appearance so necessary
to meet the demands of the mode. 1t
is the sort of coat or cape that one
could wear any where a utility wrap
Is possible. That extra precaution Is
taken to keep out vagrant breezes and
persistent rains or SHOWS is in its
favor, rather than to its detriment.
If one carries a rainstick, then any
tailored hat will do-sailor type, per-
haps, or one of the fashionable small
shapes. But If she prefers to go UNI
brella-less, as so many do, then there
are weatherproof hats to match the
coat or cape they accompany. Trim
mings, If trimmings there be-more
often they're quite devoid Of ornamen-
tation-are waterproof, so unless it's
a really drenching rain, one may be
quite comfortable without an UNI
brella.
There is a new style umbrella de-
signed for the double purpose of keep
ing off the sun, as well as the rain.
A more convenient accessory than
this present-day version of the UNI
brella it would be hard to find. OF
a length that precludes it's catching
in any and everything. and fastened
to the wrist by ring or strap, it is
not only safe and convenient, but
quite frequently it marks an attract
i've and necessary note of color in the
costume itself. One rarely ever hears
the familiar II hate to take an UNI
brella" nowadays. Boots and gloves
for rainy day wear are waterproofed.
and when one wears the former with
heavy wool or silk and wool hosiery
she will not only be warm. but much
in fashion.
Hardly designed for a blizzard, the
smart little outfit worn by the lady
pictured, yet quite suitable for the av-
erage rainy day when distances to be
covered are short, yet one must have
measure of protection. A tailored
suit, short enough to assure dry
ankles; a tailored hat. smart enough
to be quite correct If the clouds dis
appear and the sun comes out; sens
ib1e shoes and hosiery: wash gloves
and rainstick, what more could one
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

but whatever the change in colors.
fabrics and their gay adornment,
slenderizing lines persist.
The trend of the mode is toward
practically, and it is the evolution of
woman herself that has been primar-
lily responsible for the evolution of
our dress. The modern woman is an
active creature-why should she be
burdened with tight waists. long.
trailing skirts and balloon-like sleeves?
Croquet has given place to swimming.
tennis, golf and strenuous riding.
sports that demand practical, comfort
able attire. And the result is the
sports skirt. short enough for action;
the sweater, the low-heeled sports
shoes, the modern riding suit with
coat and breeches and the one-piece
bathing suit.
Each season there is an increasing
tendency to recognize the fact that
all women will not find the same
styles becoming, and the result Is an
exceptionally wide choice in the
manner of the mode" There have
been Louis. Moyen Age. Egyptian,
Spanish, Japanese effects. All the
quaint embroideries of foreign lands.
the fabrics, laces and odd trimmings
have been borrowed to furnish forth
the wardrobe of the fashion devotee.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
SMART 7OG'S .~2
~RAINI DAYS ~

- Owe it though we may-because
1t is our birthright and because
it's ours-our climate is, at best
a capricious. 1t was Thackeray,
believe, who quizzically said: "It Is
billiards. Of heat. followed by bliz-
yards of cold" and he wasn't SO far
from right. One never knows what
the next change in the weather will
be, and the gray, rainy morning is
likely to be the preclude to an after
noon of sunshine and cloudless skies.
So it Is with due consideration for its
appearance when stormy clouds have
passed, that one chooses her rainy
day apparel. Gone the days when
all the clothes unfit for pleasant-day
wear were hung aside as stormy day
attire. The suit. the hat. the long top
coat that is no longer fresh and equal
to the revealing glare of the sun, is
even less appropriate for wear on
rainy days, when one certainly needs
the moral support Of smart clothes
to counteract the dreary influence Of
the weather.
We owe many Of our rainy-day
fashions to the active life that many
women led during wartime service.
for it was then that she learned that
a garment may be sensible. practical.
weather-proof-and good-looking as
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

smartness that Is ever the result of a
simple trimming motif.
The broad -brimmed hat of felt,
with its apparently simple trimming,
is the type of hat the home milliner
essays to make, fails in achieving and
ever after wonders why The hat
itself is perfection in its lines, broad
where it should be broad. narrow
where it should be narrow. The trim
ming is simply a piece of velvet.
draped over the crown in folds. which
fashion tailored bows on either side.
Simple enough, when completed, but
there is art In every fold of the velvet.
and every lacking thread The color
of the felt is repeated in a deeper
shade in the velvet draping.
Afternoon Hats Are Picturesque
Afternoon hats still cling to the
picture type, but show an airy light
ness suggestive of spring and summer.
The lace-draped hat is a welcome re-
lief from the plume-laden hats of the
early season, though it somewhat re-
sembles them in the application of it's
trimming. The off-the-bri over
the-shoulder effect is still there, and
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
Hats Both Large and Small Lend Variety To the
Choosing = Skill In Their Design and Witch
erwin the Inspiration of Their Trimmings.

" CYNIC, perhaps. yet something
of philosopher-the author
of the assertion that few sor-
y ] rows come to a woman that
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

of a philosopher-the author
of the assertion that few sor-
y ] rows come to a woman that a
new hat will not cure. While no one
would take the statement literally, 1t
has a certain psychological signih-
canoe that anyone will admit, and
that significance has to do with the
influence of clothes on the morale,
and their undoubted aid to ones con-
fldence and ultimate success. Perhaps
a new hat will not wholly cure
broken heart. but it will put its wearer
in a frame of mind to better bear
her grief! Just at this season. for one
reason or another. the average woman
feels the urge of hat buying.
Shop windows hint Of Spring,
though Spring is yet far away, and
the reason is obvious. Wardrobes are
being stocked for a sojourn in the
tropics, where one bathes and dimes
and dances out of doors; where
breezes are balmy and skies are cloud
less. So buyers are striving to meet
the demand for clothes that will be
appropriate in land of summer,
while we are still in the grip of win
ter. The frocks and wraps and hats
in the windows are something of
forecast of the fashions OF a Northern
summer, even as they picture the
reality of the Northern winter. And
SO it Is that while some shops display
winter modes. others feature those
of Spring and Summer, and yet others
make much of what might be happily
termed "in-between" models. 1t Is
not unusual to see fur hats. straw
hats, and hats of velvet, felt brocade
and novelty fabrics in the same dis
play, for all three are right now In
vogue.
Fur Hats An Important Item.
AS long as the weather is cold fur
coats and wraps will be worn, and
there will be need of the hat
of fur and satin, or fur and brocade.
1t is the logical hat for the purpose,
and beautiful models may be had with
only enough of the fur to make the
hat match" the wrap, the rest of
satin. cloth of gold or silver, brocade
or duvetyn-any fabric that will tend
to tighten the general effect. Such
a hat is sure to find a place in the
wardrobe Of the woman who wraps
herself in fur through the coolest
months Of winter.
The Hat OF Straw
Every now and then one glimpses
gay little hat of straw. or some ma
terial resembling it. We may insist
that it is out of place with a heavy
coat on wintry day, but we like 1t
Just the same. 1t may not be exactly
consistent. out 1t is a happy reminder
that Spring is on it's way, and warm
winds will soon be coming up from
the South to blow velvets, furs and all
their ilk into a season past-so we are
grateful for the fascinating little hat
of straw. If one sees less of the straw
hat than in other winter seasons, 1t Is
because we do not jump from winter
to summer in day. buying the spring
hat the day after Christmas and the
winter hat in July. Between the truly
summer hat and the winter hat, fur or
feather trimmed, there is the happy
medium of the colorful felt the satin
or taffeta hat; the velvet model, light
ened by Grapes or brim of lace. and
the novelty model. whose material re-
sembles straw, but isn't.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
Mid-season Models Are Colorful

Mlu-SeasOn MOoelS Are COlOrfuI
The newest models are touched with
color in satisfying way. They are
hardly what one would call vivid
just gay-and they are reminiscent
of the out-of-door in summer time,
with its rarely lovely colorings. 1t is
one way of satisfying the demand for
change, for while the winter mode
has been colorful one in every sense
of the word, 1t has not the same
tints, though 1t may have the same
|colors. Felt, satin, taffeta, duvetyn
velvet and novelty weaves are the
chief medium of expression. of the
right now" millinery mode, which is,
above all else, a mode of smartness.
While the mode of real charm Is
always the simple one, however de-
viously arrived at. the models at this
particular time lay an even greater
stress on the value of linens and the
clever application of trimming. The
result is soul-satisfying. 1t means a
mode that tempts - and frequently
proves the downfall-of the home
milliner, unless she is unusually
clever For the simple thing is usually
the hardest of achievement when it
comes to fashion. Tailored trimmings,
velvet. lace and ribbon-with a slight
accent on the ribbon-are the favorite
trimmings of the hour.
Pictured Hats Show Trend of Mode
The five hats grouped above are
types" so far as present day ten
denotes in millinery are concerned. In
materials. trimmings and severely
simple lines they are the best of the
offerings of designers. The devotee
to the small hat will promptly recog-
nize the charm ofthe model made of
a novelty material in an unusual
shape. 1t Is a most considerate sort
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
THE VOGUE OF WHITE

TN season of regal fabrics and
radiant colors 1t Is not strange that
- fashion should have recourse to a
royal fur. So 1T is that she employs
ermine as medium for the expression
of chic charm in coates for afternoon
and evening wear. Such a coatee Is
really beautiful, when worn with a
gown of velvet or rich brocade, and
the more colorful the fabric of the
gown. the moro gorgeous the effect
produced. other white furs. pliable
and workable. are used with the same
satisfactory results. A close hat of the
fur is the millinery mode that COM
plements the white coatee.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
PERSONALITY IN STATIONERY
w HILE many mourn 1.-THE gentle
art of letter writing" as a by

w HILE many mourn "the gentle
art of letter writing" as by
w gone thing, it is, nevertheless.
not only gives careful thought to the
form of her written conversations.
but chooses with care the texture and
color of her letter paper and its per-
sonal marking. Usually her crest or
monogram appears on the stationery
she uses for friendly letters. and her
house address is engraved on her
business stationery"
But there's something even more
individual than address, crest or
monogram. 1t is not exactly new.
though yet far from common. the
stationery that bears an imprint of
the writer's houseLperhap in the
lower right hand corner, with address
in the upper left. This work is not
engraving. but printing, done from a
cut that has been made from a photo
graph or a pen and ink sketch of the
house. 1t is hardly more than ira
Gerry, yet it is Enthusiastically the home
of the writer. 1t may be worked out
in buff on white; soft gray stamped
In a deeper gray; buff on yellow. there
are wonderful possibilities. both as to
color and arrangement in this printed
stationery. One needs only a picture
of her house; personal preference as
to form. and frindly prlnterman,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
FOR THE BREAKFAST NOOK

TT IT be servantless type. as so
many of the cleverly arranged
small houses are, it Is more than
likely to have breakfast nook. either
just off the kitchen or as a part OF
the kitchen itself. Such a nook lends
itself admirably to beauty. as well
as comfort and convenience when the
treatment of windows and table ap-
pointments are harmonious.
No room in the house is so insistent
in its demand for curtains of washable
material as the kitchen and its ad-
jacent breakfast room, and while
chintz. cretonne. dotted Swiss or mus
lin are quite appropriate, nothing is
more attractive and satisfying than
Bingham. both for the curtains them
selves and the table linen"
The curtains may be In checkered
pattern, blue or yellow; or in any
preferred color and design, but cloth
and napkins should be made of the
same material, whatever the choice.
Two sets of curtains and several sets
of cloth and napkins assure the spot
less appearance of both windows and
table. One woman's clever idea was
complete outfits in two colors-one
blue, one yellow-so she had variety
as we'll as freshness. Breakfast china
in blue and yellow. harmonized with
both.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

well. Fabric makers met the demand
for waterproof materials both gen.
erously and resourcefully, and placed
on the market many staunch tweeds,
cantonettes. cashimeres, taffetas and
satins that were shqwer-proof. yet
smart and comfortable. With these
fabrics as a background. fashion has
made much of s-rainy-day apparel,
with the result that we revel in suits,
top coats, hats and capes that give
no hint of the original purpose for
which they were designed, instead,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

ask for a smart, yet practical rainy
day outfit. And when afternoon tea
or the matinee makes a semi dress
costume desirable it would be disap-
pointing for the clouds to threaten
rain were it not for the gay sun UNI
brella that will do valiant service in
the dash to and from the car. and
add a not undesirable note of color to
the costume.
Certainly Youth may take sudden
showers philosophically when so be-
comingly protected from their I'M
friendly drops and either Youth or
Maturity may tramp in the rain or
drive her car in rainproof comfort.
So-since Into each life some rain
must falkland they do say there's
no tonic for the skin like mist or
rain-we may be happy in the knowl-
edge that it will descend on garments
designed to meet dark days a little
more than half way, and to weather
any gale-of season. or of fashion
in a becoming way.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07
For Successful Bridge

~ HE humorous person will insist
that 1t may be Bridge" but it
~ certainly isn't Whist" the popu-
lar game of today. But 1t may easily
become the. latter. and the success of
the party be assured IL the hostess
employs the many and varied aids
to a systematic game that are ready
at her command. The tables may
bear markers that correspond with
the numbers on the individual scores.
and so facilitate the arrangements for
play; and tiny indicators will tell for
getful players What are Trumps?"
These markers may be of metal or
enamel, hand decorated or a part of
the pencil provided for the writing
down of the tally. If individual
scores are not to be kept and the
game is not to progress" there are
bridge pads of great convenience.
Prizes may be in keeping with the
spirit of the game-sets of markers;
packs of cards in leather cases. rang
ing from a single deck to dozen.
in decorated "trunk"; bridge pads.
or bridge sets. made up of both play
ing cards and '~c~~ nads. For the
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-01-07

last in the race, there may be tiny
pack of playing cards-they come to
us from France-in a neat little case
of colored leather. So small that they
will readily fit into the average pocket
book or handbag. they consistently
reward" the player whose final score
makes consolation necessary.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1923-04-20
Senators Propose Curb
on Supreme Court PoWer
Borah and La Toilette Backing Plans for
Limiting Authority of U. S. Judiciary

reform tho supreme courts pne.
tees by another method. that OF
changing the structure Of the court
Itself He has suggested tina; the
positions on the supreme court be
made elective. for a term OF years.
and would specifically deny the su.
prcms court the power 20 pass on
the constitutionaiity OF the laws Of
congress.
This type OF government reform
would rcquirn constitutional
amendment. Senator i.aFoliette n
inclined to believe Representative
F'rear'E proposals are almost identi
cal with thoae OF LhFollette. and
would also require constitutional
amendment.
Senator Owen. OF Oklahoma. who
has made lengthy study Of the
history and the growth 20 power
OF the supreme court. contends that
no law is necessary to curb the
courts powers. which he contends
are self.usurped. and therefore Il.
legal.
Owen thinks that congress should
warn tho supreme court 10 cease
multiplying laws. on penalty OF i'm.
rsachmcnt proceedings, TO be insti.
tuted in congress. aiming toward re.
call OF Justices who attempt TO null.
iify laws.
The constitution says "the su.
preme court shall have appellate
Jurisdiction both as 10 law and
fact. with such exceptions and
under such regulations as congress
shall make
This clause. Senator Borah and
others here contend. gives congress
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1923-04-20
CITY is
BACK OF MOVE
"know Your City" Cam
paign Meets Approval

The entire city win take part in
the campaign % Know Seattle
Week. beginning May 20, as evl,
dcnccd In tho reports made Thurs
day 10 the weekly meeting OF tho
speakers committee OF the general
tourist committee OF the Chamber OF
Commerce. which has ali arrange.
ments in charge. Lodges. churches.
theators. BOY Scouts. Campfire Girls.
police, mail carriers and street car
mon are among those whose cooper,
alton was promised az the meeting
one OF tho features OF tho week
viii DO tho monster luncheon TO BE-
given under the auspices Of the Seat.
tie Ad club. The Arena IL the place
and IL u planned 20 fill tho big hall
to the doors. The Elks and tho
Eagles and other organizations hRv.
ing bands win be called on 10 lead
them for the occasion and the ablcst
speakers on the committees list will
be assigned TO this meeting.
Letters have been sent 90 the vari'
Gus fraternal organizations asking
them TO arrange dates for the CON.
mittce's speakers and also 20 desig
nate speakers OF their own 20 take
part in the campaign.
Arrangements have been made for
meetings OF the boy Scouts and
Campfire Girls. which VIII DO ad.
dressed By some OF the committees
100 speakers. other meetings OF the
technical clubs Of this city have been
arranged and arrangements have
also been made for meetings OF the
police. stree, car employees and mail
carriers.
The heartiest cooperation viii be
given IN tho weeks campaign hy the
churches OF Seattle Rev. j Ralph
Magee reported that 20 OF them had
already agreed definitely 10 n pro.
gram for their participation.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1923-04-20
ny JoHN CARsON

WASHINGTON. April 7o.--rro-
posaln TO curb the power o, tho
United States supreme court 50
that Il can no longer nuillfy laws
Of congress by hare I 10 ma.
Jority, have been made by Senators
Bou,h and LaFolletts and by Rep
rsssElasfvr Frcar In tho house
Som. difference OF opinion exists
here an to the best method Of
eurblnK tho courts powers scna-
tor Bnrnh thinks that simple at
Of congress. requiring tina, ! Of
tho justices concur before q law
be decis red unconstitutional would
be sufficient. A similar view IL
held by Senator Fess. OF Ohio. who
recently ralscd the issue In an ad.
droEs.
Senator LaFoilctts proposes TO