Evening star., 1923-03-18

as on the Riviera last season. II
will continue in power
! The extraordinary assortment OF
figured fabrics offered on every
counter perpetuates it's existence. II
The amateur thinks she can make
1t, even If she bungles 1t. Therefore
| it is popular, but it has not grown
commonplace. Its texture and color
! ing are SO varied that it presents a
constantly changing effect.
/ OF course, there will be an attempt
to change its figuration from the
graceful, feminine bird and flower
design to the harsh, masculine Egyp-
tian figurations of winged vultures,
| animals, sacred cobras. pyramids
| and painted stripes. The last men,
| toned designs are more difficult to
! manage than the former. Women
should be hesitant in changing.
| These short figured jackets have
departed from the tight effect at the
/ hips, although the Lanvin coats con-
tinue in fashion. The majority fare
| when they leave the shoulders. They
| continue to close in front, but one
side is shorter than the other. The
revers and the lining are of solid
crepe de chine. 1t is not permitted
to put one figured fabric with an
other. If the jacket Is of solid suede
or crepe, let the figured lining be
riotous.
X X x X
| g..
i Everywhere in the new fashions
there is a tendency to emphasize the
neck line. OFTEN frocks carry lace col
lors of old needlework. Embroidered
net, Madeira muslin and fine laces are
chosen, and they are far too small
to be called berthas.
Jackets do not carry needlework
collars. A contrasting fabric is used
which Is run to the end of the front
opening. It is soft, unstiffened, slen-
der in outline.
Separate jackets are of silk and
wool for the early season, but they
! will be repeated in cotton for hot
weather. The finely pleated skirt
goes with them. 1t keeps pace whth
the Egyptian movement, but was re-
instated before the finding of the pha-
raoh's tomb.
Jenny of Paris is one of the sew
eral designers who sent the short,
straight bolero to this country in the
early part of the year. 1t was
brought over by the manufacturers,
| therefore widely copied. 1t is newer
than the Chinese Jacket newer than
the jumper jacket. 1t was fore
showed a year ago in the French
coats that showed ornamental over
blouses several inches below the
coat; they got shorter as the year
progressed. Now they barely reach
the waist line, with wide, slashed
sleeves, from the inside of which
drops figured material attached to q
tight inner sleeve that ends In a
wrislet. Whatever seeming effect of
width a sleeve has, 1t is tightly
caught at the wrist. The short sleeve
is reinstated in frocks, but the wide
OFT amental sleeve goes with every
kind of jacket
One of the successful bolero suits
! is of blue twill with blouse Of Egyp-
| tian blue and green SILK; Its tight
sleeves extend TO the wrist and are
finished with wide handkerchief
drapery beginning at elbow. A hand
F, kerchief of this silk is attached to
| the skirt belt. There are pockets Of
ornamental braid; the skirt is mar
| row and plain.
No woman who keeps in pace with
| fashion will wear the bolero over a
] white blouse that tucks under the
skirt 1t is not necessary to have a
figured blouse. but an overblouse is
important, and it must extend well
down over the hips. A plain crepe
de chine garment with hemstitched
| bands and a few symbolic characters
| in a triangle is preferred by the con-
seTvative woman.
There is q certain shrinking from