The Birmingham age-herald., 1923-11-04
Long SleeUes And Beaded Gowns Popu-
 ular In Washington
By MARGARET WADE

society returns for a new season with it's feminine members display ing gowns and millinery of kind to make every woman one meets like the maid sung of in the Mikado, charming sight to see.
 For clothes do make a difference. and the smart clothes of the season are distinctly new in line and color ing and of a richness and beauty We have not seen since pre-war days.
 No woman need be unbecomingly dressed, for so varied are the models approved by the highest authority that no one style predominates, thus giving the plump and the slender the young. the near young, and even the quite mature equal rights before the law of fashion.
 Only on one point has dame fash ion spoken with an emphasis that admits of no argument, and that IS that sleeves must be long. They may be wide, or narrow, raglan or coat shape; they may even follow the mutton leg suggestion of 20 years ago, or the more modern bell shape. but they must be long, which means to cover the wrist, and if milady Is so inclined, half the hand. With the long sleeve there is a revival of the short glove, which to women of linn tied dress allowance is one of the things to be thankful for.
 The fashionable noon-day we'd dings the afternoon visiting at the White House, and the one or two afternoon receptions that have brought society together thus early show that the skirit may come to the instep or stop eight inches higher up. all according to the taste of the wearer Even one of the greatest designers. who Is first choice with those Washington leaders who are considered the best gowned, Is mak~ Ing evening frocks with skirts eight {nphea more off the ground
 Street gowns, either for morning or afternoon, are still short, accord ing to the recently returned travellers from Paris, who purchased their win ter wardrobe abroad and propose dressing according to French stand ards, quite regardless of any politi- cal atmosphere which, may develop from the exchange of notes between Lord Courzon and Secretary Hughes, or the visit of Lloyd George and Dame Margaret.
 Evening gowns are long except for very young girls, the latter still dancing in frocks seven or eight Inches off the floor.
 Beaded Gown Popular.
 The beaded gown for afternoon or evening Is handsomer than ever and in whole range of new. colors, as well as the always correct black, white, or black and white.
 Miss Mabel Boardman of Red Cross fame. and Washington's foremost maiden hostess, is wearing dinner gown of black chiffon with it's back almost solid, in close patterned white bead embroidery, the beads, being translucent and strung on white thread This same embellishments crosses the shoulders form two- shaped bands all the way to the hem in front, with the line broken at the waist by a rosette of chiffon with centre of jet. The decollatage is square and the gown has sleeves, lovely long shawl like sleeves of the chiffon which fell to the floor with their pointed edges finished in white beads.
 Mrs William I. Crounse is wearing a beaded gown of one of the new red tones, medium shade of fuschia, mounted on chiffon of the same tone, but so closely covered as to leave only V-shaped piece of chiffon showinb between the surplice lines of the bodice. The front of the skirt shows pattern of small flowers in Earmonizing shades, all of very fine beads just like beautiful bead bag, dred bags. Plain silk hosiery and slippers of gold brocade are details of this ultra smart dinner toilet.
 Mrs. waIsh's Gown.
 An afternoon gown showing the high art bead of embroidery of this season was worn last week by Mrs. Thomas F. Walsh. This shows also the Paris edict of fur for every oc- casion. The gown is the straight line, suited to the slender, graceful figure of it's wearer and of very dark green cloth. The fur is 10zinch band of black fox, giving a slight flare to the hem and above this is the bead embroidery, a conVentionallzed design of green leaves and buds, the latter showing faint touches of pink and white. The twig on which the leaves grew also appeared in natural coloring, The design extepded from the fur band to the hips. but in ir- regular line. The sleeves were long and close, with narrow finish of fur at the hand. Mrs. Walsh wore round hat of black velvet with broad brim and soft crown and a necklace of small pearls twisted rope fashion with a tassel pendant of pearls.
 Although small hats are decidedly in" lnany8of Washington's best known women are keeping to this round shape, which changes little from year to year, but always shows itself in proportions and materials suited to the moment. Mrs. Coolidge wears this shape almost excluively, while among it's other sponsors are Mrs. William R. Castle, Jr., who wears it in purple velvet with close decoration of velvet and metal flow CTS in matching color, and Mrs. Charles B. Drake, who has it in black with trimming of velvet against the crown at one side
 Ostrich plumes are back, some per- sons never altogether abandoned them but in the coming winter they will be restored to high place for all afternoon toilets. It is to be feared they may appear even in the morning, as a surprising number of women disregard the we'll known fact that ostrich trimmed hats and velvet gowns should never be worn before midday. One of the most correct matrons of the diplomatic corps says never before o'clock in tEc afternoon, unless at a wedding Meakfast.
 Mrs. William Phillips, wife of the Under Secretary of State. is wearing one of the latest models in a small hat trimmed in ostrich, the latter in three. possibly four or five, separate plumes of smoke. gray. One mods, gracefully from the front of the hat which fits the head closely with teeerow coronet brim. A second small but full plume is poised at the right side. against the crown. and several fall off the brim in the back. The hat Is a claret colored velvet match ing a very chic frock of the same tone.