Evening star., 1923-09-23
BY ANNE R1TrENHoUsE.

A CAPRICE of the new season
~ is a scarlet Jacket with black
"a velvet skirt. It's rival is an orr
n entail jacket of quilted silver
cloth with a black velvet skirt. These
are novelties. They are part and par
eel of the movement to make the upper
part of the body blaze of glory.
There are long tunics that carry out
the same idea. They are copied from
Persian and Hindu sources. They are
otherwise frankly Chinese. They may
be multiplied in such variety of fabric
and coloring that we will wish they
had died at birth. But at the moment
their real loveliness attracts. Also, they
give a woman a chance at that de-
sirable thing: something different.
The piece fpock is living one of
fits hundred lives. 1t has no intention
of being vanquished by only half gar
ment, like a tunic. Several such frocks
hang in our closets. They save worry
and anxiety, but women want some
thing to talk about when the sea-
son changes it's name and its temper
ature. If some one appears in a scar
let Jacket with black velvet skirt,
there is something to talk about. Be
assured of that.
If one goes to the theater or a res
taurant dinner in a Hindu tunic OF
silver cloth covered with black stitch
cry or embroidery in flowers of crystal
beads below which is a plain skirt OF
black velvet. there's reason to believe
the other women will say: Look
There's something new"
There is no end to the clever methods
with silver cloth. 1t came into high
fashion after the Chinese ball at the
opera in Paris, which has way OF
settling things for the American buyers
as 1t does for the French dressmakers
Miles of this oriental tissue were put
into costumes for this function. Bushe
measures of rhinestones were scattered
over gowns and headdresses. France
intended to make her colonial posses
sions set the fashions for the world and
she succeeded. All China now yields
up its artistry to satisfy clothes
makers and clothes wearers.
X X X
ORNAMENTAL jackets and tunics
~ are not limited to social life They
do not confine their presence to formal
affairs. They have swung into sport
areas, into that vast field Of country
life which the American has adopted
from her English kin. There are open
Jackets Of heavy cream flannel. vividly
embroidered with flowers or, better STILL
bordered with pieces of colored silk cut
into formal designs. They fasten at
the neck and nowhere else. A frock
or blouse may be glimpsed between
the open fronts. II the latter, it is of
cream crepe or silk, cut slightly low in
the neck to show an arc Of skin between
blouse and Jacket collar,
There are two fashion features
incorporated in this jacket or sacque,
as our ancestors termed it. One is the
applied design in colors that are not
eubdued; the other is the narrow band
collar that goes straight up from its
single button. Both are to be seriously
considered by those in search Of what
is new. Both are taken from Chinese
sources.
Gowns Of excellence embody these
ideas. We get so many copies of
gowns by Chanel and Jenny of Paris
at this season, that it is interesting
to know how both these designers twist
and turn such Chinese tricks more in
geniously than the Chinese would care
to do. Possibly Chanel calls them Rus
sian, as she is completely given over
to costume ideas from the land of her
friends who are exiled in France and