San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-10-28

fur trimmed and sometimes Gu
long on the side. On his frock
he features the straight line, will
a limited amount of the circular
movement. He is displaying {
number of models covered all ovel
with a design of the materia
corded. He also places fur bands
arranged in patterns, on some OF
his coats.
| Unique Patterns in Diamond
| Studded Models.
Lace with its pattern picked out
in diamonds forms a brilliant
trimming for some of his black
velvet dinner dresses. His col
!, lection may be characterized by
the patterns he shows in these
unique ways.
Chanel, whose collection is one
of the really important ones,
votes for the simple frock with
straight lines and skirts that are
distinctly short. The Chanel skirt
is little wider than last season,
with some suggestion of the cir
cular movement on one side, but
never losing that straight, youth
full silhouette which has made her
house famous. Velvets, as in all
the other collections, are a mark
ed feature, and green is the para
mount color-apple and emerald
greens for formal wear and dark
green in coats and daytime dress
es. The Chanel neckline is new.
She has many little band collars
that stand up in back and are
brought around to be tied loosely
in front.
Renee favors the straight line
silhouette modified by a certain
amount of the circular movement.
Brown and black are the predomi-
mating colors. Fine pleats stitched
flat play a conspicuous part in the
models of this house. Dresses that
are not tucked or pleated are
trimmed with circular flounces.
Silk braid is frequently employed
as trimming, and bright flowers
are appliqued on many of the
black velvet dresses.
Doeuillet has banished the ba-
teau neckline almost altogether,
replacing it with the narrow band
collar that ties in front, the Peter
Pan collar and the throw scarf
collar. There are many sports
suits in the Doeuillet showing with
an extra long coat or circular
cape. They are usually of check
ed or plaid material. Red one
piece dresses are frequently, worn
with short black velvet coats
heavily trimmed with fur. The
Russian blouse dress is a favorite
here, with fullness concentrated
on the side and fur trimming.
Coat dresses are popular and
will be worn by the fashionable
Parisienne. They are made of
velours de laine, velours de smy-
rne or some other >soft-surfaced
material, and are abundantly
trimmed with fur so that they
have the necessary comfortable
appearance for winter.
New Fur Collars That Are
Detachable.
They are most attractive, as
they present slender, 1.-THE sill
houettes, widened about the hem
by a deep band of soft fur, usu-
ally fox, astrakhan or martin and
with deep collars and cuffs of the
same fur. They are very cleverly
arranged so that .he collars may
be either removed or so adjusted
that they do not make the dress
unbearably hot indoors. These
dresses can be worn without coats
until the cold winter weather
comes, and they are much smarter
and more trim looking than
coat.
Waists are distinguished by
their sleeves, and the sleeves show
definite evidence of an intention
to change. Jenny is introducing
new sleeve which resembles the
bishop sleeve, although it has a
tight cuff to the elbow and is
fitted plain into the armhole. Lam
win uses some sleeves that are
frankly gathered on to a dropped
shoulder, although the long, tight
sleeve is her favorite. In fact,
the long tight sleeve with graceful
droopipo cuffs nav he callad tho