davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

and women. Ro6ier, the greatest
OF all French fabric makers, has
brought out bewildering array OF
novelties, but one perceives, after
seeing his fabrics, that the Moroc-
can influence will be the strongest
feature of many spring models,
since fabrics showing inspiration
derived from the French colonies
are the best sellers in Rodier's line
and have been taken by all the
leading couturiers.
In wool we will wear loosely
woven, rough materials resembling
the cloth in the robes of Arab
chiefs. Marokaia is the name Of
one which resembles tweed in is
weave. Marokelaine is another,
which is very beautiful, with wide
stripes of silk raised like Clock.
Another material, made particular
ly for the Second Empire gowns
of spring. is very thin WOODEN
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

ded with imitation jewels in col
ors on a background of richly en-
broidered gold cloth.
Among the noteworthy models
of Maris Guy is one of brown
straw, trimmed with fluorscent
chrysanthemums in brown, rosy
yellow and blue. Another maker
features toques made entirely in
the new violine shade trimmed
with a flat bow of fluorscent rib
bon in tone of violme.
RebouX features Eats of bright
colored felts, such as geranium in
combination with straw and trim
med with velvet geraniums.
The making of fabrics has be-
come an industry involving many
of the worlds most talented men
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

fashion and this model is a com
promise, having half-girdle.
The central figure in the grour
of three sketched on this page
shows a Brandt model of blacl
crepe satin trimmed with red and
blue embroidery and having a red
chiffon blouse. Bands of chin
chilla edge the collar and the bot
tom of the cape.
Patou uses for one of his new
models beige crepella. The frocd
is made with straight apron tunid
and trimmed with luxurious browl|
fur in the form of collar and
cuffs. This also is sketched today
Another model shown at thi|
French house is of white sergj
trimmed with red braid apS.,rsl
buttons and having a monogram ID
red on the left sleeve. MonogramI|
placed on the sleeve are having 1
vogue at the moment.
Suits being made for countr,
wear this summer are in white|
often embroidered with brilliar
color. Premet has charming mode
of white Perllaine-Rodier's ma
terial which is a subject of Frencl
witticism-Perllaine meaning WOO
that sells at the price of pearls
However, this materials bids fai
to repeat its big success of last sea
son.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

is thrown a big scarf of filmy wood
brown tulle which softens the color
and is most becoming to the face.
Toques of Egyptian Origin.
Evelyn Varon also makes pic
ture hats in taffeta, particular
ly striking one of this sort being
of brown taffeta trimmed with a
huge bouquet of roses and violets
yelled with a scarf Of brown tulle
which trails from one side of the
hat and may be worn draped about
the throat.
Lewis makes evening toques in
the form of bandeaux or head
dresses, which are of Egyptian in
spiration. To these he adds 4
crown of black satin. The toques
are trimmed in coronet style, stud
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

duced, such as ten-inch borders of
rows of buttonholes, deep borders
! of tiny pompoms and borders that
look like rows of embroidered ar
row-heads. All are woven into the
fabric.
Crepe is still good, but crepe
satin with shimmering surface is
stronger, which there are many
printed silks. The designs of the
new printed silk are usually
adapted from old Hindu-C hinols
designs or Egyptian and Persian
heiroglyphics.\
Materials with embroidered and
printed borders are overwhelming
ly in the majority. N cotton and
linen fabrics these designs reign
supreme. There is much white pat
termed in colors, often in strong
blues, reds and greens. All-over
embroidery frequently is seen in
cotton fabrics. A novelty in white
linen shows a colored border ex-
actly like the border of fine linen
towel.
Colors of early spring are Ha-
vana brown, a light warm brown,
strong yellows. almond green,
bright blue, red of the crimson
shade and much beige and gray.
White predominates over all col
ors. There is very little black
shown just now.
The Deauville handkerchief has
become a silken shawl and is made
in the most brilliant peasant colors
IF Rumania and Russia.
The models being shown for
American buyers are mostly
straightline with no radical depar-
lures from the last seasons sill
houette. The line is a bit narrow
er, with trimming and panels kept
flat to avoid interference with its
purity.
Sleeves are full of happy novel
tics. Skirts are ankle length and
for street bit shorter. The waist
line has been raised a trifle, but |
still remains long. The necklire
is allowed more liberty but greater
authority is given to the square
and the Y than in the last season.
Capcs made Of Kasha and other
wooden fabrics have deep woven
borders on all sides. These bor-
ders are in Persian patterns woven
CT gold thread into the fabric.
Laces, beads and embroidery arc |
shown everywhere, and the filmy |
wooden lace introduced by Paul
Marescot, in shaded tints.. is impor-
tant.
An attractive model shown by |
Bernard, the great French suit
maker, is of white piquelaine.
Printed crepe in white and red
forms the revers and cuffs of the |
Jacket, also a band down the side |
of the skirt. There is a tendency |
TO promote the beltless jacket in
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18
How the Hat Should Be Worn

4 Lucie Hamar is doing beautiful
kind of flower application in Great.
ing hats that encourage the millia-
cry spend-thrifts. There are still
many hats that are trimmed with
aigrette and goura that continue
to be a temptation to Americans,
despite the ban placed on all plum
age except that of edible fowls.
Small Hat Grows in Favor.
The small cloche is having ire
mendous success in Paris, but it
is new in form, there is always
something a little different done 90
the brim or there is a new way of
making the foundation or of de-
signing the trimming.
Rose Descat is postmaster in this
style of small hat. Her models are
a veritable rage in Paris. She
makes them in suede, in felt, in
changeable taffeta, in embroidered
stuffs and in delicate straws. They
have the most artistically prepared
crows and the brim-borders are
varied to the sixteenth of an inc1.
While Rose Descat keeps most
of her hats in what might be call
ed the tailored effect, many other
milliners use the small cloche vita
more elaborate trimmings. 1t is a
great favorite with one of the tiny
border wells in crescent or masque
shape. This shape lends itself adj
mirably to the use of flowers and
foliage.
Louison has series of beauti-
full little hats entirely of flowers,
fatty sewn to the shape, entirely
covering it. She also uses foliage
in the same way. Her leading col
ors are pervenche or periwinkle
blue and violine, a lovely sort of
blush old rose. Many of the new
flowers are in a so-called fluors-
cent or fluon-spar effect, sort o.
changeable or shot cloth now big
novelty.
Leaving the small clochc the
fashions runs into the large droop-
ing brim shapes, some of which are
decidedly poke in effect as they
have a short back brim. Lucie
Hamar and Evelyn Varon are US
ing these poke shapes extensively.
Lucie Hamar exploits a lovely
idea in the form of a flower appli-
que on a straw cloth or taffeta.
Flat flower-like daisies or single
petal roses are scattered all over
the shape, and in addition to being
flatly appliqued are quilted in
metal or colorad silk machine
stitching. so that they seem to sink
into the background and become a
part of it, looking like relief bro
cade. These hats, of course, have
no other trimming except little
tightly knotted bands of color, re-
calling the flowers which may lie
Of duvetyn daisies in all shades OF
yellow, muslin violets in Parma
standings or tones of pink roses in
muslin or taffeta.
Evelyn Varon's big pokes are
often of fluorscent taffeta; some
times with a beautiful bunch of
flowers fatty posed on one side
of a fairy high, quaint looking
crown. Many of the big picture
hats shr-vn by this we'll known
maker are swatched in two wells
They are of horsehair braid, often
trimmed with flowers, and over all
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

fabric as diaphanous as gauze and
printed with tiny flowers scatter
ed over its surface. Rodier names
it Barejaia.
Novelties in Rordered Materials
Bordered materials are strong,
with many novelties being intro
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18
Paris Notes

1t is becoming quite the fashio
in Paris to combine a social fea
ture with the launching of the ne;l
seasons fashions. Tollmann, on
of the less we'll known houses frori
an international standpoint, buI
having q very smart following u
Paris, notably among actresses i
the prominent theaters, gave
smart tea on the afternoon of he
opening, it being exclusively an ir|
vitation affair.
She showed an interesting CO
lection of dresses in interestinl
surroundings, she having one q
the lovely old houses of Pari
which stands back in a coufsx ~
international feature was introduS
ed by the presence of an America
jazz orchestra, whose music seen
ed to inspire the mannequins n
their graceful promenading.
A prominent feature noted
the reversion to the very narro
skirt for evening in the style tn;
is known as "skin tight" a tyr'|
which has been very much used 4
Cabot through the winter al
which many of the less importaf
houses are now taking up.
Tight Fitting Dresses
Nearly all of these very cloiI
fitting dresses are Oriental
effect and carried Oriental nam5
A very attractive one called Flef
de Lotus was in distinct Chinet
effect, embroidered in royal bid
and black. Another one call9
Mutt de Chine was in black, GO
and green. The former was Ell
broidered in flowers, the latter
dragons. The third, equally intd
esting, called Chimere, was in
lovely combination of Pompado
rose and Natter blue WONDERING
blended by the use Of embroidf
les in two colors. Another lovd
model, Indo-Chinoise, was in
wonderful red and gold brocad
so narrow in the skirt that 4
wearer could hardly walk.
Rhanee was an exquiss.>y@&a
in white and gold lame, VIII
looked almost like a metal it W
so heavy. This was combined wi
heavy gold lace. On the oti
hand, there were a number
dresses in floating panels a
plated effects after the style
Vionnet. Vestale was an exc
site ell white model of which thi
were really quite number. WI
being dominant note in the ev
ing dresses.
White and Silver Gowns.
There were several beauti
MORE evening dresses that is WI
shot with silver or shot with e.
There were beautiful white bead
Georgettes sprinkled with br
ants in the so-called diamanti.
lovely one called Tanit was
straight chemise form with a q
liant green sash underlaid,
cleaning through a sheer WI
beaded frock. A model called
lene was Of white and silver ID
draped to one side and mold
the figure. On the left hip wa
big red velvet poppy, with
ter of brilliants, this poppr ID
at least twelve inches in diamJ
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

Art in millinery is developing
rapidly because women are de.
handing so much of their hats.
The clever woman uses her hat as
a weapon. She not only chooses
it to enhance her individual charm.
emphasizing every one of her best
points, but she studies the use
that is to say, the occasion of IT'S
wearing. 1t may be demure, 1t
may be daring, it may be trying, 1t
may be flattering, but it must al
ways be chic.
A woman should not wear her
hat. merely as head covering. out
rather as an ornament. In color,
in outline and in pose it should
give her something. She should
choose hats that stand for sub
traction rather than addition of
years. All her hats should be
youthful as we'll as flattering.
To be successful in her dressing
n woman must be willing to take
time to choose her clothes proper
ly. She must be neither hurried in
her judgment nor eXtravagant in
her selections-that is, eXtrava-
giant from standpoint of waste.
She must be willing to take time
to buy becoming hat, willing to
be fitted for it just as she is for a
dress, to sit before a mirror and
try color after color and combina-
tons and ways which suit her best.
She cannot arbitrarily say, Il want
a brown hat, black hat or a blue
one" but, "Give me a becoming
and useful hat" Then she evokes
the aid of the expert and joins
with her in making a selection.
Hats should be as carefully fit
ted as gloves or shoes. One should
not buy hat for the sake of hav-
ing a new one, but to give added
charm. Once such a hat is chosen
it is a Joy forever.
Permanence of Value.
Suzanne Talbot, one Of the
great artists of Paris, now takes
the attitude that hat can be just
rs permanent in the wardrobe as q
piece of jewelry. She does not
believe in the ephemeral hat, but,
on the contrary, advocates the
choice of one that is so becoming
one might even say flattering--
that a woman may lay it aside for
a season and bring it out again
and wear it with as much enthu-
siasm as when she first purchased
it.
A great point in connection with
Paris millinery is its great SIM
plicity. The art is in the hat it.
self; it is fundamentally artistic;
it is never overladen. Its charm
frequently lies in what has been
left off. Many people are aston
ished at the prices the Paris miliin-
er is able to get for her hats. But
it is her art that commands. TIE
smart Parisienne is willing to pay
for added charm. The American
copyist would be lost without Paris
models, so values rise in proportion
to social and commercial appre-
citation.
Reboux and Talbot do not hes:-
tate to ask 1000 francs for hat,
and it does not always follow that
the hat carries an expensive gar
niture, such as aigrette or goura.
Talbot has had great success with
her little loom tapestry hats made
in fascinating colors to be worn,
despite their simplicity-as they
have no trimming whatever-with
the most dressy afternoon toll
cites.
Reboux is showing exquisitcly
wrought straws which have the
urge Of 1000 francs expenditure.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

Al left Brown td6eia hat, from
EVELYN Horon. trimmed Nth roses and
v;olcts and yelled NTH a scarf Of bfown
tulIc. Above-Lcwis toque NTH blact
satin cropn and bandeau Of geld cloth
studded vith imitation jewels
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-03-18

Above. al left-Hat of brown sbdD, from Mario
Cuv, trimmed with fuorescent ta6eLd cIursanihe.
NUNS in brOpn, Weldon and blue. Al right
Louson toquc in The mem riolinc shade NTH boz
of fuorescent ribbon in tones Of rioline
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
"cosAs DE PEPIN"
Por K1KE

dice t'Guerrish Jr." (GAtrevimien
to, o que? "Los mayagiiezanos somos
atrevidos, apasionados hay muchos, pc
ro. en- llegando al case del Mgr. Fran
&C del que quiere lamar team Maya
giiez" CUltimamente RADIO podemoS
lecir que 1a llegado el 'colmo'. Como
Sc We parece que Pepfn ha olvidado
las costumbres de casa, Y es bueno re-
cordarle que nosotros los mayagiieza-
nos cuando nos proponemos hacer una
cosa, bien sea por atrevimiento. apa-
sionamiento o por 10 que sea 10 hace-
mos y vencemos, nunca retrocedemos y
10 hacemos case de crfticas RIDICU-
LAS Estamos en- la completa seguridad
cue ell Mgr FRANCO no lie habra dado
JNPoRTANCIA a las manifestations
de PEPIN esperamos que continuara
con mas entusiasmo que nunca su glo-
riosa labor por levantar el entusiasmo
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
NoTAs DE MoRovIs
CoRREsPoNsAL.
Sept. 1e, 1928;

Despues de haber pasado los canicr-
lcsos meses de vacaciones, unos al lado
de sus familiares recibiendo las cariciaS
que ellos siempre ofrecen Y otros en-
las aulas Universitarias recogiendo Ia
prolffica semilla del saber, Sc hallan al
lado de nosotros muchos de los maestros
que en- ell proximo pasado curse dedi-.
caron todas sus energias al noble apos-
tolsdo del ma gisterio. Ellos vienen nC-
ros de brios, dispuestos dejar, como
hasta la fecha 10 han hecho, una estela
luminosa en- Ia mente de sus educandos.
Que asi sea son los deseos de este cro-
nista que es un enamorado de todo
novimiento que tienda a realzar la
instruction en- nuestro pueblo.
Un POGO acongojado Sc encuentra es-
tc pueblo al saber que nuestro INTEL.
gente inspector de escuelas, senor
O'Neill, solamente estar& con nosotros
hasta diciembre que luego ira a con-
tinuar su labor al pueblo de Comerio.
FL trabaj6 ell aio pasado aqui y porque
sabemos cual fuG su labor realizada,
por ESQ es que sentimos de todo cors-
z6n su partida hacia otros lares. FL
Sr. O'Neill es un funcionario que da
PREF honra al departamento de Edu.
caci6n reconociendole sus meritos es
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
MANRICo.
NorAs Esco1AREs DE euAYAMA

va ha dado principle ell nuevo curse
escolar para el afio 1923-24 a juzgar
por la actividad que reina entire ell
cuerpo de profesores de este distrito. la
cooperation por parte del Departamen
to de Instruction local en- todo la
iniciativa del Inspector de Escuelas,
Sr. Torres Reyes y su ayudante. Sr
Irizarry, en- la buena organization de
las escuelas, creemos que Guayama al
canzara muchos triunfos este afo.
va tenemos entire nuestro distinguido
y excelente cuerpo de profesores al muy
distinguido y popular Professor de CuI-
tura Fisica, Sr. Pedro Faberll6, quien
conquist6 muchos y resonantes triunfos
para las escuelas de Caguas Ell ano pa
sado y no dudamos que Guayama sc
siente hoy orgullosa de tai adquisici6n.
Este a1o esperamos mejor trabajo en-
ell campo de atletisrno, Basket y Base
ball.
HemoS sido enterados que en- ell nue.
vo presupuesto esta asignada la canti-
dad de 100000 para las obras de un
campo atl6tico v que dentro de breve
daran principle esos trabajOs bajo La
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
Ecos DEL EXTERIOR
(Por MoNsANT)

(Por ETONSANT).
La actuacion del New York YAM
kee" ell Cleveland ambos de La
1iga Americana, es digna de admiral,
toda vez que los dos equipos cuentan
con "1nfelders'' "outielders" que
tojen tiran especialmente, piensan
y ejecutan con una velocidad de re-
lampago.
Dugan, ell antesalista regular de los
Yankees, es un verdadero fenomeno ro~
leteando Y tirando Sc dice de el, que
es la estrella de esa posici6n en- las dos
Ligas, pero le acompaha la desgracia
de no ser un buen "tolete'' como Groh
ror ejemplo.
Lc que mas he admirado de estos dos
clubs, es Ia maneTa de de batear,
russ hasta los lanzadores hacen cantar
"a boIa.
Segun hemos podido apreciar, el Van
kee Stadium adolece de un defecto GO
neral de los terrenos americanos. La
cerca del cleft field'', esta pegada la
tercera "base'', y la del right, aun
cue mas dsstante, facilmente un fly
puede convertirse en- un ''home run"
7 de tai manera resulta, que I'm ire
mendo toletazo solo sirve para alcanzar
ina "base', y por Ell contrario un hu-
nilde 'palito que apenas forma ruido,
nluchas veces Sc convierte en- ''hone
rur''
no ha muchos dias en- I'm Fgame"
cue presencie en- el Yankee Stadium
Summa Y Fris Speaker batearon dos
lineas fenomenalcs. La de SuInma fue
muy baja, pero tan dura rapida que
sc noto hiciera una recta en- ell aire
basta chocar con la cerca del right
field; pero mala suerte, pues solo le
valio dos bases por que Meusel atrapo
la pe,ota de rechazo no perlnitiendo
Que Sunma uegara hasta la "aImoha6i
ia apgustiosa'' La inea producida por
Speaker 500 sirvio para que Witt llE
ciera su destreza dc gran outfelder
acrobatico, pero en- cambio Ell "Ba1>
hiAo'' Sc anoto una de esas 'pelfculaS
lnuy pecuhares en- el, mientras Speaker
tiraba la gorra contra ell suelo desde
que vic salir la 'bola', en- protesta
muds contra los terrenos de aqIela
1iga.
La vETERANIA de Speaker no ha
sido ovice para que siga siendo una
estze,la de rrimera magnitud, sin que
Sc note en- el Ia decadencia, pues ba-
tea, CORE y fildea, como 81 Sc trata<a
del juicy en- Pto. Rico.
TamLien cuenta Speaker con profun-
dos conocimi entos del juego, pues como
McGraw Ell responde de 10 malo bue-
ao que hagan sus ''pitchers'
Ell, desde ell central feld'', hace
indicaciones al catcher de la bola
que ha de pedir.
Y pasmense ustedes con un corredoJ
en- tercera otro en- segunda y habien-
dc dos 'tout'' orden6 al Ianzado-
Edwards le diera un pase ibre al te
meroso Babe.
Nesotros creiamos haber sorprendido
sus sehas, pero mas tarde y en- iguales
circunstancias Y con Meusel al palo,
creiamos habfa hecho igual sena que
anteriormente, pero quedamos sorpren-
didos al notar que habia ordenado, Sc
t.ciera batear Meusel.
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
Notas de la Isla

que ese departamento 10 ha ascendido
para otro distrito de mas categoria. Al
milno tempo que nos sentimos tristeS
con su traslado, nos haIlamos satisfe
chos porque el va ascendiendo puede
ser que en- un future no lejano La pe.-
sonalidad de este probo empleado sea
elevada una mayor altura. Feicitamos
al sefor Severe O'NeiI por su mereci-
90 ascenso al mismo tempo que 10 des-
pedimos con una honda pena, desean-
dole que en- Ell nuevo distrito sea acogi-
do con ell mismo afecto con que 10 fu6
aqui.
El Mundo. [volume] (San Juan, P.R.) 1919-1990, 1923-09-20
DEsDE LAS MARIAs

Sc MARCHO:-Y Sc despidio de
nosotros muy afectuosamente, e. Sc
nor Alfonso Casta, professor de ms
trucci6n pIblica que ejercio aqui va
rios dias. FL amigo Casta marcho ha-
cia Naguabo en- cuya poblacion ira
bajara de ayudante del inspector de
aauel distrito escolar Que le vaya
bien.
EN- PLENA CoSECTLA. dado
comienzo ELI toda esta jurisdiction la
recollection del rico grano. La cose-
cha es epl6ndida v, 81 Sc sostiene ell
actual precio del mercado, ell margen
de beneficio sera compensation para
nuestrcs agricultores.
GUARDO CANA Aunque no de
cuidado estuvo enferma, atacada de
grippe, la seforita Margot Pereira, hi
ia de nuestro amigo don Tomas Pc
reira Nos alegramos. pues, que la
dolencia fue breve.
HOTEL MEDINA.-En la Ultima
casa de la Gale principal ha instala-
do un hotelito nuestro amigo Pedro
Medina. Las comidas son buenas y
las habitaciones ventiladas. Este ho-
tel es una de las muchas manifestacio-
mes de progreso que hace falta este
pueblo. :
POR UNOS DIAS.-Gozo de las de.
licias de esta altura, ell amigo Francis
CO Otero, Jr.,. sobrino de nuestro ami
go. Ell jefe del movimiento de anemia
de Las Marfas, Alexandra Otero Rive
ra. AL despedirse nos aseguro que
volveria n,uy pronto.
TAMBIEN Sc EsTABLECE.-I
talando un cafetin en- la Gale Conner
cio nuestro apreciable amigo Juan ri
garry, otro elemento de iniciativa in
dustrial de Las Marias. Este corres-
ponsal agradece la distinction que tu-
vo Ell amigo Irizarry con nosotros al
vis:tar su establecimiento, lie desea-
mos 6xito en- sus negocios.
UNA FIESTA. por el
ingeniero senor Juan G. Figueroa. pre-
parase un gran pasadia en- Ia fnca del
sefio1 Hernandez, ALA por las mar
genes del caudaIoso "Guacio''. Sera.
pcsiblemente, ell domingo "a del CO.
rriente y, nos dicen, que a estas horas
hay dos lechones en- capl,a.
TRES HoRAS.-Estuvo en- este pue.
bio el Lcdo. en- optica, don Antonio
Pillado Perez, quien tuvimos Ell gus
to de conocer. El sefor Pi1ado es
persona afab'e culta a quien pro-
testamcs ell homemade de nuestra amis-
tad.
''DoN ARCI" Entire los muchos
estudiantes que salieron para Maya
giiez continuar estudios superiores en-
la Alta Escuela, iba nuestro amigo Is
mael Beauchamp, quien carinosa-
mente llamamos "don Arch. lie de-
seamos 6xito complete en- SUI primer
afio.
ADIOS.-Le decimos a la Srta. Es-
tervina Medina, que Sc marcha para
la ciudad del oeste. Que is vaya bien
y no divide que en- Las Marias lie dis
tinguen mucho.
CoRREsPoNsAL.
Sept. 16. 1928.