Evening star., 1923-07-15


lieve that the clothes makers
will try to put long jackets in
fashion in place of short ones
when the first glimmering of autumn
appears.
If this transformation takes place
it iso wise and sensible to get what
ever service a short jacket will give
$n the warm weather. If the style
is violently changed women will not
ignore 1t. They will follow 1t. not at
first, probably, but before the turkey
and cranberry is on the table.
Paris is laying down the law to
the American buyers now. but those
who deal in bulk of ready-to-wear
clothes started the idea of the long
coat before the ultra French styles
came, into being for the dressmakers.
France has had enough of the short
jumper jacket. and we'll she might,
for 1t was as commonly worn, over
there eighteen months ago as 1T is
now on every beach, every country
lane, every Main street.
X x r
livery variety Of treatment and
ornamentation has been tried out
on this garment. There can be moth
Ing left to the imagination. 1t is
surplice more often than straight. 1t
is braided more often than plain. 1t
has the inevitable sash on one hip
or the equally inevitable buckle at
the tight hem. 1t never flares. 1t
never buttons to the chin. Such in
novations may be given chance
when cold weather comes for those
who refuse the length and volume
Of winter coats the dressmakers will
give us.
that the fiaring peplum will be the
next step in the cut of short jacket
10 suit those who are faithful to 1t.
AS there must be more than one
style I'm coats for the various figures
that dot this continental landscape.
the o-Chinese effect over the hips
will be a pleasing change.
1t is strange that we have had SO
little of the upturned horn move
ment in our clothes since the Cam
bodian dancers Influenced French
clothes last summer. We get our
fiat -flowered embroidery from that
source. the extravagant use of birds
and peacocks, of jade and colored
beads. of broad colorful hens as
borders and a brilliant display of
jeweled fabrics. Our so-called dia-
mond gowns came from Indo China.
So did our long and splendid sleeves
yha Go
we have ignored the fiaring jacket
with its outstanding horns on the
hips? They are excessively beguil-
ing, these movements of fabric, and
give youthfulness to all but the hope
lessly stout and thickset
THEY may confuse the convictions
of those who are not used to
horns on their clothes We have
taken to ourselves SO much that
smacks of the Pacific orient In the
last few months that we should not
have hesitancy in adopting whatever.
looks queer and un-christian. but
some of us do. The short Jacket
whose peplum Is convoluted into
sharp little flares over the hips. that
cuHouaJy reminiscent of cornuco-
pias, may make US feel as though
we were trying to be miniature Chi
nese pagodas. Therefore. we may re-
ject them. But the American dress
makers will see to It that modifica-
tions set in and the conventional
American will be pacified.
As the sum total of the American
woman's fashionable desires is to be
emaciated and youthful, she has
hard effort ahead of her to fulfill
such wishes in the wearing of the
new long coats.
The short jacket has youth in every
line. 1t even helps the unquestion-
ably stout to retain some measure of