, 1923-09-02

o autumn, one receives an i'm I
preston of the great variety in
kprinted fabrics, says Vogue The
vogue for printed materials has been
more than q passing fad Of a single
season. and now, II would seem.
women have become devoted to the
gaiety of colour and design offered
by ouch fabrics. ThsIs may be
noted a new restraint in colour as
compared with the printed silks of
the past season. n o tendency to-
wards patterns in two-tone or self
colour. while the designs are artistic
xenditions of NAM different native
Influences 1t q not be said. how
ever. that figured fabrics dominate
the mode entirely. for plain mater
aals are just a strongly In favor.
First of all. for the daytime cos
tune, the coat-dress and the tailored
suit will share honors, The suit, .
in its extreme severity. will be de.
veloped in mems suitings in Oxford, |
brown tones. navy blue. and black,
while tho coat-dress, which will be
accorded more general favor. will
be worn this season in a great var
1ety of fabrics. Twills and reps viii
be most often chosen Tor such a
frock. while other soft. fine woolens
suggest themselves-materials with
<suf1icient warmth, but pnabls and
very light in weight. These will be
seen In plain color and In Jacquard
effects in s~elf-color. Doesette, one
Of these soft. light woolens. is well
adapted for tine coat,frock or the
three-piece suit
Since the slennn, silhouette is
nor firmly ~entrenched In favor
than over. only soft fabrics will be
fashionable - satin-faced Canton.
crepe de Chine. georgetts. velvet
and MORE. The MORE OF this sea
son is wonderfully soft and often
has u reverse side of satin. Besides
these fabrics, there are the embroid.
cred crepes and ciepes decorated
with slightly raised patterns- These
patterned crepes show all-over de-
signs giving the effect OF rich en-
broidery in a material that is OF
comparatively small cost. In many
cases, however. the crepe is actually
embroidered all over. and. for sucn
treatment. Indo- Chinese and Persian
designs are smartest. There is a
great variety in materials. giving
the effect of clocky, and these are
not in one color. as in pre-
vious easons but are shown IL
printed designs or two-tone eff
fects. Crepe de Chine u firmly
established for the simple trocK
Naough of course. 1t will have
q strong rival in tho embroidered
and printed crepes, for they lend
themselves to implicitly of design
with distinguished effect.
The fabrics Already spoken Of are
those that are sure to be generally
favored. There are others which
will be the choice of the woman who
affects an individual style. who does
not always care to wear the clothes
of the majority. For her. there
are the large-patterned materials.
some of them showing a surface like
that of georgette with the design
brought out in artificial silk. and, in
these. flower motifs are often used.
Among decided Innovations of the
season are novelty weaves in sports
effects-fabrics Of the type hat one
associates with the French sports
frock. One of these is kreplesse i'll
autumn co.ors. browns and tans and
soft brown-greys. An all-over design
which appears to De an application
OF leather, is shown In n crepe dc
oh ne, very smart in effect. The
snstcriai suggests itself fer autumn
V sports dresses or for warehouses;.
Satin striped georgette crepes, ex-
tremely interesting in color. lend
themselves admirably for use in The
bodices of t~hree-piece costumes. and
for the lining of coats. for Innings
often repeat the material and cclors
Of the blouse.
The cloth coat and the three-piece
suit, both Of which are shown in
variety, viii be great rivals. Among
the new offerings are soft, heavy
suede-like fabrics that lend them
selves well to the coat, which is of.
ten quite luxurious in type. For
the sports coat. came.'s hair is the
favorite material. 1t may be had
in a number OF appropriate shades
for sports garments. ranging from,
q soft green to a light grey and
including all the tan shades, as wei
as in plaid or striped effects intro
ducing combinations of tan ant
brown shades
For afternoon wear. the two-piec,
suit with the blouse and the comb
nation of frock n long coat will