davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Straight Dresses
Favored in Paris
Mode Is Doomed for Winter
Wear, According to the
Fashion Writer

There Is war In the world of dress
Not an unfriendly war; nevertheless
one which is being carried on with de-
termination. 1t Is a war of length
versus breadth.
Ny personal opinion, states a fash
Ion correspondent In the Boston Globe,
Is that there Is not a shadow of doubt
about the winner-for this year, at
least, length" has become an estab-
lished favorite; that Is to say, the
tunic-dress outline.
At the beginning Of the year one
heard many rumors about a drastic
change Of line. Many Of the leading
dressmakers Of Paris tried hard to get
this change accepted by the women
VINO have influence In dress matters,
bat 1t was no use. Straight dresses
which display the outline Of the figure
and which had a youthful effect re-
manned strong favorites- Full and
fussy dresses were accepted here and
there, for evening use and for special
summer fetes, but not for general
jority Of the dress people in the rue de
la PAX, etc. accepted a defeat and
quickly turned out straight models, sur
prisingly short and tight, which gave
general satisfaction.
For the summer. at least these
straight models will remain In favor
but the advocates Of full-even hoped
SKIRTS have only retired for a mo-
ment. They have not changed their
opinions. Certain attractive actresses
have been induced to appear On the
stage in the Second empire ball dresses
Of ultra attractive appearance. Winter
halter hats and fichus call for founced
skirts and early Victorian corsages.
And so the thin end Of the wedge Is
being steadily inserted.
II is not safe to make distant predic-
tons, but 1 am afraid that the present
season will see the last of our lovely
straight dresses; that when winter
comes we shall have grown used TO
flounces and fussy pillows. even hoops.
A wonderful specimen of modified
Second empire dress certainly created
a sensation. The foundation was gold
lame, with series of gathered flounces
in fine gold lace. The corsage was
draped tightly round bust and waist,
with a bertha Of gold lace falling off
the shoulders. A magnificent touch of
color was introduced in the form Of
deep pink poinsettias which seemed
thrown against one side of the skirt,
one gorgeous blossom resting on the
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Brilliant Colors for
Sweaters for Riddles

Sweaters for little men and womer
are most pretentious. The sportsman
Of three or four summers is quite as
smartly decked out as his elders He
has a sweater jacket of brushed wool
fitted and tailored In the correct new
fashion for country wear. 1t is of two
tones of figured wool with plain knit
ted back and sleeves. and a severe
row of buttons down the front, as well
as most importantslooking pockets.
Slipovers are the easiest to get into.
and are likely TO stay on. so they are
much In vogue for the little folks.
These have a sailor or turn-back collar
and wool ties.
Many of the sweaters are In two
colors and have woven designs Of
Mother Goose characters and animals.
A galloping white horse adds a splen-
did touch of decoration to bright red
slipeYer.
SILK and wool weaves are very popu-
lar. Collarless sweaters are finished
with a woven border design.
An interesting trimming that is much
admired by little folks is an organdie
medallion with embroidered pictures
In colors. These are used as belt tabs
or edgings.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
WORK OF GREEK BUILDERS
Expert Describes Their Methods, Es-
peciaIly in the Construction OF
the Marvellous Parthenon.

Throughout Greek architecture, II
is apparent that the designers were
working on the basis of centuries OF
precedent, following definite standards
of proportion and detail. standards
which varied but slightly in each gen.
GRAFTON. No mysticism, no laws Of
ritual. no arbitrary applications Of geo
metrical forms or of mathematical
formulate, but rather the juxtaposition
of members carefully proportioned to
each other and marvelously refined In
detail, produced a whole, the general
proportions Of which could not have
been foreseen at the beginning which
was. furthermore, often varied In the
course of execution-resulting, how
ever, in what may be regarded as the
most perfect building that the world
has ever seen. And yet 1t Is instruc
tive to note that the Parthenon, while
synonymous with perfection, had its
imperfections like every other human
creation; and 1t is through these Inn
perfections that we can perceive how
its designers were cropping toward
their goal.-Prof. William Bell Dis
moor, In Architecture.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

spark coil The wavelength Of such an
oscillator Is mainly dependent upon the
length Of the system, but can be In
creased slightly by foreign material In
the field.
Wave Length Increased.
In the ideal lineal system the energy
distribution Is such that the wave
length Will be twice the length Of the
oscillator, but since this is only true
for rod free In space necessary leads
to spark coil, mountings, detecting de-
vices and phones all tend to increase
the wave-length considerably. There
fore it may be necessary TO tune the
receiver to the transmitter by accurate
adjustments Of length
Fig. shows a diagram Of the trans
mitter. A straight rod Is divided into
tive sections Of equal length, adjacent
ends being separated by a small air
gap, or spark gap" A small spark
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

right shoulder, or rather, falling of It
A very famous Paris dressmaker.
Lanyin, seems satisfied that smart
women will really accept this style.
and In the near future. But then Lam
vim is now showing quite a different
silhouette-curious models which are
very tight over bust, waist and hips,
and which then flare out in an aston
ishing manner. One of these models
was made of fine black lace. elaborate
Iy shirred over the hips, with a tight
casaquin corsage and immensely full
founces spreading out from low hip
line At one side there was an enor-
nous taffeta bow, with ends which
trailed on the ground Molyneux also
is showing models which are tight down
TO a very long hip line and which then
break out into wide, very full dounces-
This is a revival of 1880 styles. II Is
becoming to women of exceptionally
good figures, tall and slender, but the
average woman will find such dresses
distinctly trying.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Chicken In Alaska.

On the Yukon the chicken is a pam
pered luxury, according to Frank G
Carpenter. in Alaska, Our NortheEr
Wonderland" In summer the chick.
ems who do not like twenty-four hours
of daylight are put in darkened coops
at s D. m, and during the long, dark
days of winter the coops must be light
ed In order to make the chickens lay.
II Is the custom during the winter to
nut chickens out to board In chicken
boarding houses. These are log build
ings. lined and oiled, with the space
between filled with shavings and heat
ed with alright stoves.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

tential to operate detectors- Three
schemes are shown in Fig. 4. all OF
which possess some advantages when
used with certain lengths of receivers.
However. the scheme at D and in Fig.
II simplest and most effective for
spark and crystal reception The exact
center Of the rod includes a very small
helical coil Of several turns across
which Is q small fixed condenser Of
500 minds and crystal detector, as
shown In Fig. 4 d. The potential dis
tribution Is maximum at the extremes
of the coll during reception and is,
therefore, zero at the center, so by en-
ploying this small coil sufficient drop
to operate the detector is provided
without destroying the effect as an os-
cillator. Another scheme is shown at
B. where a small inductance Il placed
IN inductive relation to the current
(current carrying rod of the oscillator.
B Is rectangular block Of wood sup
porting 80 turka Of No 80 enameled
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

Editor OF Radio AerchandtsinsJ
wire, the terminals being connected to
the detector unit One side Is placed
to the rod, as shown Another coil Ii
shown at c, consisting of a wooden ring
with toroidal winding Of 30 turns Of No.
30 enameied wire inclosing the rod
The Transmitter.
Fig. shows the transmitter; e Is q
wooden handle ten inches long. carry
ing two rectangular blocks of wood o.
bakeIite, D. Two choke coils, c,
are wound upon 4 three-quarter-inch
diameter fiber tube and consist Of sew
eral hundred turns Of No. 80 enameled
copper terminating at binding pos1
for attaching to coil and oscillator rod
shown Rods, A, may be Of three thirty
second inch diameter brass rod, each
Is inches long The receiver In Fig Z
is constructed similarly. with the add
tfun Of 4 email platform to support
fixed condenser, G, and detector, d.
Receivers rod, A, Is also Of brass, 30
inches long, including coil, B.
These instruments VIII be found
quite critical to length Generally tia
receiver VIII be shorter, 4 difference Of
one inch In length being sufficient to
vary the strength considerably. For
e1perimenters desiring more elective
instruments the system In Fig 5 Il suSt
gested Here 4 seamless brass tele-
scope tube of one-eighth inch inside d.
ameter is cut Is inches long for each
rod Of the transmitter 60 inches for
receiver). A slot at r provides 4 fric-
tion junction upon the one-eghth inch
brass rod G Is inches long that slides
into the tube. These rods may b
pulled ont 50 that either of the systems
may be extended for critical tuning q
changing Of wave-length.
When operating with such short
many interesting expert
ments may be performed With suo
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

the selection of furniture as you have
In preaching civic beauty and higher
moral standards.
When you assist in creating the
home of taste you are ministering to
culture and intelligence. One cannot
very well continue without the other.
1t is a proven fact that no home
maker can associate himself with
household goods in which the kindred
quality of each is well established and
inter-related. without being improved
by the contact.
Mental efficiency, moral. breadth and
social uplift are all promoted and
maintained - our intimate environ
ment
And what environment is more con-
slant than good furniture Milwaukee
Sentinel.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Method of Mounting
the Spider-Web Coils

The following method of mounting
the spider-web coils allows rapid In
terchange Of the coils for reception at
various wavelengths.
First make pieces "A" of thin
brass Then drill holes through them;
also In the coil forms Fasten these
pieces to the forms with short ms
chine screws The parts TO be Sc
cured to the panel are quite simple
Put machine screws through the
panel and solder TO the heads Of the
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Choose Wall Paper for
Your Home With Care

When you choose the wall paper fol-
your home, select it with special care
advises writer in the Milwaukee Sen
tinel. If you are renter. you will
find that many apartments are fortu-
nately decorated in good taste.
The fve-room apartment or house
always includes bath and sometimes a
sun room. in addition TO the living
room. two bedrooms and a kitchen
Sometimes these rooms are found al
ready papered and the pattern is SIM
ply atrocious. With this condition,
furniture settings and that
"at home" feeling is utterly impossible
To avoid these wallpaper jolts, If
you redecorate, use care in the selec-
ton of patterns and colors.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Plain Tailor-Mades for
Fall and Winter Wea,

The fall and winter seasons of 1923
Will witness a gain In production anS
distribution of plain and semiplair
dress goods.
With the heads, backs and busts OF
women everywhere decorated with EN-
broidery, it seems to be logical con
clusion that the smart set will be
driven to the other extreme, viz, plain
tailor-mades, II they wish to appear
as being distinctively dressed
In the exclusive New York shopping
district one notes coat dresses mad,
from navy blue worsted twills ant
bearing all the earmarks of a skille,
ladies' tailor.-Dry Goods Economist.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

coil, C, Is connected through two small
choke coils, r, to the rods. The coil
energies the rods, one positively and
the other negatively, until the gap
breaks down, after which the energy
becomes osci1latory until damped out
Chokes, R, prevent the capacity be-
tween leads and coil from becoming
defective by ret1rding high-frequency
currents tending to move back into that
circuit
Figs. 2 and are Of the receiving
unit Since this must be tuned TO the
uansmitter. its length VIII be approx
mately the same. except that the rod Is
continuous and undivided
Detecting Received Energy.
The problem Of detecting received
energy Is quite u1nicult one, since the
energy at 4 distance Is very small and
the addition of extra apparatus In the
circuit prohibitive- The rod being open
makes 1t difficult to obtain sufficient po-
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
A CLIMBING WheelbarroW.

In China there Is wheelbhrroW
which climbs stairs. Some distance
ahead of the regular wheel there is
another smaller one. In climbing over
flarstone steps or bridges the handles
Of the barrow are lowered until the
auxiliary wheel rises above the next
higher step. Then the wheelbarrow,
which often carried as much as 4OC
pounds, see-saws from wheel to wheel
until the next levei stretch Of nag
stones II reached.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Furnishings of Homes
Civilizations Register

When you step into tasteful. mod
erately furnished room, do you realize,
even In small degree, what factor
the furnishing Of your home is in the
whole scheme Of modern civilization
The manufacturer and furniture
dealer have as plain and manifest
duty In educating the home-maker In
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

crude receivers a distance Of several
hundred feet may be covered when en-
ploying a onesi1teenth inch spark-con
at the sending unit The devices pos
sess remarkably sharp directional prop
critics and provide an excellent method
OF studying the angle Of propagated
waves where they are originating from
different heights and angles
C. Radio Se-a)
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

ones' he said He tried very hard
10 ma hers. but had been unsuccesS.
iui- Apparently he imagined thai She
was girl VINO worked In the city. He
uid not even know that she was m.
city messenger"
I've been bold enough to follow
YOU ne told her. But you AWAY,
go in a different direction and y5u
come IN on my train only on satur.
uays- You were good sport to look
me up"
Il didn't look you up" said Kate.
D'ushihg and feeling very Indignant
10 think that he thought she had been
so bold. Il was as surprised as YOU
just now. | had no idea that you were
you-though your aunt did say that
you had reddish hair and nice eyes"
DO you think l have nice eyesY'
he said with boyish eagerness.
Did l say sop
You indicated that Won thougbt en- ~
said Mr. Benton. Anyway, they look
honest, don't they?" he asked. and
then, We'll, If you didn't know l was
myself, then why did you come to see
me and how is Il that you know my
aunt?"
You see" began Kate, 81 happened
10 stop there this morning, and she
was talking about you and we were
speaking of engaged people and she
said that since your engagement@u
"Oh, hang 1t ALL" said Tom Benton.
You're not going to let that engage
ment stand In the way Of our friend
ship-are your He was very much
In earnest and seized one of her hands
In two Of his and looked entreatingly
into her eyes.
please don't" said Kate. "You see
she had a letter from your mother
this morning and your mother said
well, the truth Of the matter Is that
she-your aunt-didn't want to tele-
phone to you about it-she wanted to
tell you, but she was just starting of
for the shore-so she asked me to tell
you. l might as we'll tell you outright.
The young lady you were engaged to
has eloped."
She stopped abruptly, expecting to
see Tom grow pale or otherwise en-
barrassed, but nothing of the sort
happened
$50 she eloped." said Benton. "Well, |
that's not surprising. You see we'd /
been engaged in a way for a year or
so, but hadn't seen each other lately. 1
We became engaged on condition that
II either saw anyone we liked better .
we'd be frank and tell the other and /
there'd be no hard feeling.
We'll, l told her a month ago, and
she wrote back saying she was just
trying to get up courage TO tell me
that she had promised 10 marry Bill
Pepper, an old flame of hers. I didn't
say anything to my family and she
lidn't say anything to hers, because
hey didn't like Bill. So she's eloped-
we'll, I'm glad" and Tom laughed
heartily.
Kate felt indignant and looked 1t.
This was pretty way for man to
axe the elopement of an ex-fancee.
Since you've met another girl you
are for" said Kate very primly. q
oppose that accounts for your indif
erence. I fancy you'll be the next
ne TO elope-"
Bully idea" said Tom, suddenly
utting two strong arms around the
urprised Kate. Suppose We do. ]
lways did dislike long engagements.
cts do it before my aunt comes back
nd give her surprise"
And they did.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
By D. & CLEMONS

BY D. r. cLEMONS
Very short wave lengths OF several
meters were employed BY early invest-
gators In the radio field The expert
menter can easily repeat simple and In
structive experiments with simple sp-
paratus-
The simplest radio oscillatof Is the
open uneal type composed Of straight
metallic rod suspended freely In space.
II the rod is separated at the center to
provide a small gap IT VIII radiate
energy when energized by 4 small
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Method of Shorting
a Murdoch Condenser

The sketch shows q simple method
OF cutting out a Murdoch condenser
at the zero position This does away
with an of-and-on switch and the In
convenience of taking the hand on the
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10

Ribbon on Printed Frocks
A smart designer Is making colorful
sports hats Of coarsely woven fabrics
with narrow belts to match, TO be
worn with white sports costumes.
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
Novel Mounting.

screws short pieces Of No. u copper
wire, extending up for about onehah
inch The general arrangement OF
the parts Is shown at "B.- The ends
Of the coils may be soldered to the
brass pieces. The connections TO the
coils may be taken from the back Of
the panel
The Challis messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1912-current, 1923-10-10
VOLTA DresaAa

Drawn work and fine tucking ar
pear as the decoration of simpl
dresses Of wolfe made entirely by hand.
Evening star., 1923-05-06
SALE-FARMS.
Continued.

SOUTHERN MD. FARMS FOR siIE-A
number Of TO 20 acre farms, conveniently
located on hard surfaced state roads. with
steam and electric railroads nearby. are now
farms from 90 to 900 acres, including many
tipe water fronts. The commission will help
you make your selection, furnishing expert
advice free of charge. Address Southern
Maryland Immigration Commission, College
5-ROOM BUNGALOW; HOT-WATER HEAT;
bathrooms. tile fixtures; IS acres all clear:
garage. dairy barn for ten cows horse barn.
chicken house, ETC.; near railroad electric
cars and macadam road
Apply to OWNER
1O0l Ard AZ
Evening star., 1923-05-06
Gentlemen's Country Home and
a Revenue-Producing Farm.

Three miles from District line; 10 minutes
from Capitol. The show-place of Prince
Georges county, Maryland, one Of the ban
ner counties OF the United States.
comparatively new. with city conveniences,
Is situated on hill. from which are gra
cious views Of highly developed pastoral
region.
THE GARDENS. flower and vegetable, to-
Iethrr with the orchard, are pronounced rea-
lures.
TIE FARM, containing 12s scses, s in a
high state Of cultivation and productive a.
wheat. corn and hay. 1t is splenGilly fenced
and watered.
TIE OUTBU 1I.BINGS. cons, sting uf barns
stables, garage and terant houses. are first
class.
THIS PROPERTY should command the I'M
mediate considers tiou Of any desiring
delightful hoIne and fertile farm Close to
Washington.
Address Box its,-r star Office
Evening star., 1923-05-06
Takoma Park and Vicinity.

DISTRICT SIDE.
Bung. rooms land bath. S., 800; bung.. .
rooms and bath, ami, y oak floors, $1,000;
mi-detached, 2-story, new home. rooms
and bath, oak floors, h.wh., sleeping porch;
near cars $500. Terms.
Near Walter Reed. large rooms, tile bath.
h.w.h., fireplace. oak floors, Kitchen pantry,
extra large closets, level lot, Jas feet deep TO
alley Priced for a quick SALE
MARYLAND SIDE.
One square TO cars; rooms and bath re-
ceptiou hall, garage; nice level lot; $4,000;
easy terms. Bungalow. s large rooms and
bath. stairs throughout. oak floors, glass-in-
closed sleeping porch; 9 squares to cars;
ST 900: terms arranged.
North Takoma; rooms and bath: no better
location: lot 80 by over 200: owner leaving.
Price, $500 for quick sale: Several old
homes with large grounds and plenty of fruit.
Priced right. Eight and bath: garage:
lot 75x2OO fruit trees; 5000; terms arranged.
New bungalow, 3 rooms and bath, ami;
IS, 100; terms.
c. w. VAN WAGNER.
81 Cedar ST., Takoma Psrk. d. G.
Col SIt1.W.
Evening star., 1923-05-06
! MARYLAND Waterfront Farm
3S Acres with Auto Truck.

Hurses CONS, 4 hogs, IS5 poultry, tools. I'M
pIements. seed pleasant, enjoyable surround
ngs for whole family; income from start: near
enr ,,heut corn potatoes vegetables: PASTURE
$50 fruit trees, 9. acre Strawberries; comfort
able house, good barn, garage. poultry house
etc: owner unable operate; s., 100 takes all.
pa rt cash. Details page "a. big catalog bar.
gains. many states, copy free. sTRoCf
FARM AGENCY, 1 ZEN. Land Title bldg,
Philadelphia. Pa
Evening star., 1923-05-06
Apply 10 UWN EN,
1901 Ord ct. s.Y.
GROWING CROP

POSSESSION " TIL TITLE.
leo acres, bordering god country road: 90
miles District line, 11a miles creamery.
churches. school: stores, state highway. PA.
X. X. town aud motor bus junction; broom
attic dwelling: pump in yard; NIL necessary
outbulldngs. including tobacco barn: Al to-
bacco and truck soil: estimated 81, 800 worth
Of timber; price. $1,000: terms VIII con-
slider exchange for d. G. property. n. ACTON.
Evening star., 1923-05-06
6-Room House, $50 Month.
PROp'TY

WANT TO Buy PROPERTY IN COUNTRY,
near Falls Church, Va; ready to pay
$3.50 cash, balance in monthly rates: house
must be near line Address Boz 36-P
Star office.
WANTED--To RENT, FOR ONE YEAR or
longer, . or 8 room house. car line, with
grounds for children and garden; about $50.
Tel. Mrs. RANDS, 3-8 pm.
4Go5
Evening star., 1923-05-06
SALE-SUBURBAN PROPERTY.
Continued
POTOMAC HEIGHTS.

Have you seen it7 The most picturesque
and beautiful subdivision in the city. over.
looking the Potomac river and extending TO
Conduit road. Nice villa sites and large lots
for gardens. fruits, chickens and eggs. Build
Ing up faster than any part OF city in indi-
viduEi homes We are opening up some very
attractive sites for homes: moderate prices
easy terms: 1907 white. Take Cabin John and
Chain Bridge line to Jewett st. and see w F.
JACKSON. Owner, b424 Conduit road. Cleve.
4e3, or call on q. r. DORSETT, Owner, S16
18th st. NV. Main 1900.
NEW BUNGALOW. 8 ROOMS. BATH, 4. MI,
81. 800; $3.50 cash. $50 a month.
+ broom bungalow. $500; 5000 cash. S35 mo-
Groom cottage. $500; $500 cash. $40 mo.
broom house. garage sheds; lot 50x150:
$4,000: $500 down, S35 mo.
Groom bungalow, cleo, gas; lot 50xl5o;
4.0GO: easy terms
Groom house; cleo, gas; lot 37xaoU; double
garage; $4,000; easy terms.
g. and room houses. frame and stucco.
all new. ami: fireplace. electricity. good
size lots: strictly residential section; well 10
Gated; choice Of seven; terms to suit; reasona-
BILE cash payment.
G. &. DONALDSON s. CO..
CherrydaIe. Va: Phone Clarendon ao4-W-1.
OpEN All nAN