davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-07-29

tourists in pIeasurable secrecy. What
q world to live in.
X X X
DACK to the sleek coiffure. The
- women who can afford to show
the shape OF their heads and whose
faces do not need softeninE by sur
rounding fiun are already at It They
initiate the head Of Chinese doll
with straight bang over the forehead.
Or they brush II back smoothly of
the forehead, do anything with it
over the temples to make 1t con-
fall below the nape of neck.
The Chinese turban. sometimes call
ed the mandarin, 10 not the sole ex-
ample OF the newly revived upturned
brim in millinery, but 1t is the mos,
fragrant. one. Its bow is the cause OF
| this. The crown is round. plated OF
gathered. and atop Of it is a loosely
| tied bow OF ribbon.
France is quite familiar with such
a hat through her colonial Chinese
possessions, but 1t has novelty for
US.
There are other kinds which
| threaten to upset the balance OF the
| overwhelmingly popular cloche OIL
| helmet. There's a tight little turbar
| with brim turned up half the height
Of the crown, with a stiff brush al
the back, the kind that is put on the
| helmet instead of ribbon. There's
another with a high brim in front
that shows the still existing Russian
influence by a slight curve forward
| beneath this curve are banked now
ers, or sometimes there is a ribbon
| scarf which ties in the back.
| 1t is more than likely that these
hats will prevail when autumn set
Evening star., 1923-07-29

THE sleeveless jacket may not
confine it's activities to hot
weather days. There IS a decided
tendency in Paris to put such coats
over blouses with ornamental sleeves
that show the brilliant needlework Of
the Rumanians and of the venetians.
At this hour the jacket without
sleeves Is treated as a sport garment.
The new kind are of embossed velvet,
edged with gold braid. AS IL the gay
ETY. OF the braid were not sufficiently
enticing. the design of the velvet is
outlined down the front with gold
threads.
This type of jacket is worn over a
white organdy blouse. the glory of
which lies in its ruffied gauntlet cuffs.
1t may interest you to know that the
seventeenth century glove. which we
Evening star., 1923-07-29

the growth of the spreading of the
fabric at the ankles is an important
contribution to the incoming style.
There is no use trying to avoid it.
even il you do not like it. The
dressmakers are concentrating on It.
AS a fashion it began with the con-
servative house of Cheruit in Paris
as long ago as last August, when
no one took 1t seriously but some
Frenchwomen who like to be first to
start and first to drop a new clothes
feature.
Coats for autumn, the new ones,
are TERED like frocks. France has
sent over some that are as sinuous
in their drapery about the figure as
an evening frock, but the lavish use
of peltry gives away the fact that
the garment is a wrap.
These fiat flounces are forerunners
of the conventional rufie. We may
popular fashion. Our buyers who are
in Europe are quite taken up with
the new frocks of such houses as
that of Callot who sponsor Victorian
frocks of colored tulle with sizable
train. The bodices are tight. with
a decolletage that shows the whole
curve of the shoulder. They are
edged with ribbon, which. in turn. is
edged with black Chantilly lace.
There's a revival of an old fashion
for you. We thought such gowns
were buried in lavender. How can
we jazz in fiounced skirts with
trains? Is the waltz the next dance
to arrive? Are we on the brink Of
dignified clothes and manners? That
Is what the students Of dress are
Evening star., 1923-07-29
e's Oldest Country Is Great in Natural Resources

are said to equal more than. a billion
tons.
X n *
THE railway the Swedes have built
i to export this iron lis farthest
north of any on earth. It runs from
the port Of Lulea, at. the head of the
Gulf Of Bothnia, a. long arm Of the
Baltic, across the Scandinavian penin-
sula to Narvik in Norway, where,
owing to the influence OF the ocean
currents. the water LIS open all the
year round. although It is farther
north than the arctic coast OF Alaska
This road is 500 miles long and one
half OF It has been electrified. The
part which 10 now run by electricity
goes from the iron mines TO the
Atlantic and in time the electriffca-
tion will be extended TO the Baltic.
The power comes from the Porjus
Falls, which serve also the iron mines,
and they arc so great that they can
electrify the whole road with plenty
to spare. The Porjos plant is one of
the giant hydraulic rail stations of
the world. 1t has an So.000-volt
transmission line and it can develop
$4,000 horsepower for the greater
part Of the year. There are other
waterfalls nearby which will yield
10000 horsepower and the Lulea
river alone, It is said, can develop
more than 100000 turbine horsepower.
Sweden has practically no black
coal worth while, but its white GOAL in
energy producing value is equal TO
81, soc. 900 tons per annum, estimating
that 1t takes ten tons of fuel to pro-
duce one horsepower running all the
year round. This alone is equal to
over one-tenth the annual product of
our coal mines. Sweden has avail
able water powers which approximate
seven million horsepower, Of suhich
moro than one million horsepower be-
longs to the state The country is
undergoing an extensive hydro-elec-
trio development and plans have
been been made for its gradual cleo
trification. The southern part, which
includes most OF the farms. is covered
with Transmission lines which give
power and light to most OF the peo-
pie. The development 10 now being
extended throughout Central Sweden.
and later 1t will go on to tho settle
ments throughout the north.
There are few countries so blessed
In water power as Sweden. The
country consists OF a plane sfoping
from the Norwegian plateau down to
the Baltic, with streams running
across It like the ribs Of a leaf. These
rivers roll over rocks and can be
made to yield water power every few
miles. There are tens of thousands
Of lakes and ponds which serve as
basins and the streams can be easily
damned. In south Sweden the big
gest power plant is the Trollhattan.
which uses the falls of the Gotta Alv
river. which forms the outlet Of Lake
wennern. There are three falls in
which the river drops 10s feet and
the power production is constant. The
Motala river, the outlet Of Lake
Wettern, also furnishes a great deal
Of power and there are hundreds of
other water powers throughout the
country.
Carpenters World Travels Copyright,
1928. by Frank q. Carpenter.)
Evening star., 1923-07-29
nese Influence Is Seen in Short Gay Jacket and Sleek Hair

yet. but she will, for France is inter-
esting herself in 1t as IN q new dance
or in nah jongg.
BY the way, did you know that NAH
jongg is forbidden in China except in
the treaty ports. and the excitement
of finding the game or playing 1t out
side Of Shanghai IN somewhat after
the game OF who's got tho hooteh?'
over here. Americans have returned
from Peking all asog over discover
ing this fact. It aided fmmenselysin
their desire to buy and to play. Some
one whispered: 81 know a little street
where q coolie can take US where W.
can play or buy a set" and on go tn,
Evening star., 1923-07-29
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

0LD as Egypt is' she is pushed
aside by the ancient finger
Of China, who puts her i'm
press on our modern clothes
Dressmakers do not appear to be
at q loss for new adaptations OF Chi
nese costumery to our activities and
environment. The experts see things
we do not. They snatch at an EN-.
broidery design. they catch at q bow
on an ancient warriors uniform, they
fnd something precious to copy
from a yellowed print.
France has made no secret of her
preference for China over Egypt, es.
pecially for that part of. 1t which
she owns and calls Indo- China.
What France projects, we wear
Therefore it is we'll to know that she
insists upon whatever Is Chinese, that
she shrugs her shoulders over the
Tutankhamen furore. and that when
she puts an immense ornament in
the middle of the waist line and
gathers drapery in to the middle OF
the skirt. she says she has done this
in cycles, and will continue to do
SO, despite the finding Of dead kings
Maybe she's right.
That special silhouette remains
There is no diminution in what is
fiat at back and full in front. There
are changes in it, however, tina,
threaten the strong Luxor influence
under which we have rested for q
few months. The changes that have
come about make it less violently
oriental.
Evening frocks are still pulled
about the spine and hips, TO be gath
cred or plated into a full middle
panel that begins in an immense or
nament, but afternoon ones rarely
take on this Egyptian characteristic
Remember this difference, for it is
important.
The afternoon frocks carry their
fullness in front, of course. Nearly
every fashionable frock does if it is
not as straight as a lead pencil
Women Of conservative tastes may
object and protest They may in
sist they can never bring themselves
to be as conspicuously different back
from front. But in some measure
they will adopt the fashion. We dc
what every one else does in dress
It's the first law of woman.
The thing to remember in choosing
new clothes is that the back mus,
be plain and closely nodded to the
figure. The front must carry the
burden of ornamentation.
OF one thing women may be sure
" that tiers will continue. They
do not belong to any one country
or epoch. but they will dominate this
season. Paris and America sponsor
them. Every dressmaker has a fling
at their construction.
These tiers are fiat circular f1ounces
They do not give extra dimension to
the figure. They may surround the
skirt or give to the front the apron
effect. Women like them better wher
they do not extend to the back, fol
the hot iron is the frock's best friend
when f1ounces and chairs come In
contact.
The new French clothes show a
widely circular lower founce, which
serves as the hem of the skirt, and
Evening star., 1923-07-29

million dollars. 1t is massive
structure of red brick with roof
Of bright copper, here and there
turned green by the weather The
copper Is laid on in plates, each of
which represents the patriotic spirit
Of the citizens. During the war, when
taxes rose and the price of copper
went to the skies, the city council
decided that the red metal roof must
be abandoned on account of the cost.
Thereupon the Stockholmers began to,
subscribe. Individual after individ-
ual put his hand in his pocket and
brought out s6 to buy one OF these
copper shingles. as we might call
the plates which cover the build
ing. Nobody was allowed to give
more than one plate. but thousands
subscribed, and thus the building
was rooted. AS a testimonial of ap-
probation the name of each doner
is engraved on the plate paid for by
him.
1t was in the motor-launch of the
United States minister, with the
American flag flying at the stern,
that 1 plowed my way through this
city of islands. Suppose you sit
down beside me and we shall make
part of the journey over again. The
launch Is what is called an outside
Archipelago boat. This means that
1t Is big enough and streng enough
to travel the seas. and that one could,
IL he would, venture across the Baltic
to Finland. The launch is about forty
feet long, ten or more feet in width
with a gasoline engine not far from
the center. 1t uses its 60-cent
gasoline without a carburetor, and
It is run by a Swedish engineer.
We start at the Grand Hotel Royal.
an immense building facing the quay.
and go up stream past the palace.
We pass a dozen little steamers in
from the Baltic, and under the arches
of granite Of the bridge to the island
of Staden just Craze the boat of a
fisherman who by means of a wind
lass Is casting a net ten feet In dia-
meter into the water. Scores of men
like him may be seen fishing here
at any hour Of the day. On the right
we can see the Royal Opera House,
where last night we heard Battisini.
tho successor Of Caruso, in Rigoletto.
and beyond 1t is the Kings Garden,
tho chief winter promenade of the
capital. Still farther on arc the for
eign onices, banks, and other large
structures. while in the rear along
narrow streets Is the business section
with it's many stores filled with fine
goods.
AS we move onward, we 60 by
| island after island, each rising from
| it's smooth rock OF granite. On some.
| factories are located. on others ware
houses and great lumber yards. On
ono we see the city prison and on
,, another the military academy, or
West Point Of Sweden, which here
faces the water as does our great
school on the Hudson. There are
private schools on the same island
with an athletic ground facing the
| water where two score blue-eyed and
light haired children are playing.
We stop and photograph the girls in
their 'ring-around-the-ros and
| snap tho boys who are runni 1g back
| and forth in association foot ball. The
children look and act the Same a
our school children at home, but they
are more po,itA Every boy raises
ahie~cac lha0 p2eageu
Evening star., 1923-07-29

schools. They have one system OF
education which gives sixty-eight
exercises in carpentry for boys from
ten to fourteen, and they teach weav-
ing, working in iron and all kinds
of embroidery and needle work.
There are more workmen in the in
dustries of the country districts than
there are in those Of the cities and
towns.
AS to the big industries, the coun-
try has a number of manufacturing
centers. such as Gothenburg and Es-
kilstuna, where they have been car
rying on manufactures for genera
tions. Eskilstuna is the Sheffield of
Sweden. 1t is famous for its knives,
razors and locks and has been max
ing them for hundred and fifty
years.
Sweden has glass factories and
porcelain factories famous all over
the world. There is a. match factory
at JonkopinE which started making
matches about the time we were
fighting the Mexican war and is still
working. It has now one machine
that produces 10000 boxes OF matches
an hour. That town Is at the head Of
the match making industry Of the
world.
The country makes Diesel engines
and ball bearings, and 1t is rapidly
going into electro chemicals, increas-
ing it's output of the latter product by
millions of kroner a year. 1t makes
powder, dynamite. munitions and all
sorts of woodwork, as well as wood
pulp and paper It is one Of the
great timber countries of the world
Of north Europe.
A page Of this newspaper might be
devoted to the work Sweden has done
| in her manufacture OF fine iron and
| steel. She has some Of the purest
ore Of the world and the ore still
available is said to be more than
| eleven hundred million tons, which
| should yield about three-Quarters of
a billion tons OF metallic iron. Some
| Of her ore grades more than 80 per
cent and she has great beds OF new
deposits in the north which are far
above the ore values of the best of
our iron about Lake Superior. The
| Swedes have been making iron since
| the days Of the Crusaders and IN the
! eighteenth century they were supply
| ing four-fffths OF all that metal used
| by mankind. AT that time the ore
came from central Sweden and it ran
| 80 or so per cent pure. The vens were
| from fifteen to thirty-six feet in
l thickness and as q rule about TOO
| feet long. They are mining iron in
| the same region today and 1t will be
| long before the ore is exhausted.
The smelling was done with charcoal.
| Today Sweden makes 90 per cent of
all tho high grade iron OF Europe.
| The most important Swedish ore OF
the future. however, will come from,
the now mines under the north pole.
I Away up above the arctic circle in
Lapland they have found beds of iron
like those We have about Lake Su-
perior. where tho ore is dug out with
giant steam shoveis. There Is one
place where It lies on the top OF q
mountain. The ore block Is more
| than a hundred yards wide and three
miles in length and it runs down
under a lake. The percentage OF iron
in this ore 10 even higher than that
l Of central Sweden, much OF 1t run
ming 10 per cent pure. About two
years ago they had already taken
more than 3o.o00,00o tons out Of some
LOT. these understandable total deposits
Evening star., 1923-07-29

ties. They will be as attractive and
as time-concealing IS the helmet with
It's small brim. Whatever goes up
ward from the face shows much that
those who are not young would like
to conceal. whatever shades q wo-
mans eyes adds to their allure.
The line OF the Chinese hat, pure
or nodded. is hard. 1t belongs to
the faces Of dolls. We have not that
kind.
Copyright 1927
Evening star., 1923-07-29
He Knew It Was Old.

From the Kansas City Times,
Can 1 rest assured that this chair
really is old?"
"Old! Why it's so old i've had to
put in a new back and seat, besides
Evening star., 1923-07-29
BY FRANK G. CARPENTER.

n n ORE than a thousand miles
Nu north of Boston, about four
thousand miles east of New
- York and fifty miles nearer
the north pole than Sitka, Alaska, lies
q city of islands. 1t Is founded on
granite ground smooth by the glaciers
when all northern Europe was covered
with ice, and the rocks upon which 1t
is built are divided by mighty rivers.
It has sixty miles of islands between
il and one of the greatest salt seas
of the world. and behind 1t Is fresn
water lake whose islands by actual
count number 1870. The islands In
front extend on to the Baltic and they
run north and south and eastward to
Finland, the peninsula which forms
the newest and most nothernly repub-
lie of Europe. In addition, the city
has peninsulas bathed by salt water
and fresh. making a mass Of pictur-
esaue scenery created by God and i'm
proved by man that has its counter
part nowhere else in the world.
This island city has been given the
overworked title, THE Venice of the
North" The same name has been
tackled upon Amsterdam, Bangkok,
Siam, and Soochow in China and upon
every other municipality that has
dozen or more dinky waterways in 1t.
The city I write of has no river less
wide than the Grand canal at Venice
and the streams that roll around 1t
and through 1t are so broad and so
deep that steamers plow their courses
to its heart. The name Of this city
10 Stockholm. the capital of Sweden.
Venice stands on a marsh. Amster-
dam rests upon piles which sinking
have made it's houses lean backward
and forward as though they were
drunk. Bangkok made up OF the wind
ings Of the Menam, has houses which
float, and the same Is true also OF
Petrograd, which, owing to the lack
of care Of the bolshevik government,
is sinking back into the morass out
of which it rose at the command OF
Peter the Great. There Is no ques-
tion about the foundation of Stock
holm. Its granite base dates back
5000 years to the time the great ice
sheet melted and left these rocks
bare. Therefore the buildings are mas
sive, Those near the water are SC
heavy they could not exist in any
half fioating cities here mentioned
The palace of the king is a huge
structure of granite. 1t covers more
than three acres. surrounding q court
nearly square in shape. Completed
sixteen years before we declared oui
independence of England, 1t Is reach
ed from tho mainland by q bridge OF
seven hugo arches of granite, under
which deep waters flow.
X X X
@N another island. a pistol-shot
Oaway. are the houses of pariia-
mont, which cost several million dol
Lara Passing island after island. w
end ono which is q new city hall with
q Aieh tower surmounted by q 0reeh
temple Of copper ending in a great
ball Of gold. which hangs like a full
moon in the sky. Above this COLDER
ball. on y golden stan. stand the three
golden crowns that form tho coat OF
- ~
Evening star., 1923-07-29

and LvedP Notable ClH
nand uitacy
Which Has No
wher Else eCoarA Abundant
Evening star., 1923-07-29

~ LID as Egypt is. she is pushed
aside by the ancient finger
Of China, who puts her i'm
press on our modern clothes
Evening star., 1923-07-29

n n ORE than a thousand miles
Nn north of Boston, about four
vl thousand miles east of New
q u York and fifty miles nearer
The Winslow mail., 1923-01-12
1851 SAMPLES OF SEEDS
TESTED BY DEPARTMENT

During the fiscal year 922, the seed
testing laboratories of the Bureau OF
Plant Industry, United States Depart
ment of Agriculture, received and ex-
amined 29671 samples of seeds. OF
these, II 100 came to the labratory at
Washington, and 1851 to the five
branch seed-testing laboratories main
tanned in cooperation with the State
institutions.
These samples represent both vege-
table and field seeds from farmers,
seed dealres, and Investigators, to
whom reports or analyses were sent,
showing the presence of weed and
worthless material, or the germina-
ton, or both, as requested. Through
this service the work of seed-testing
laboratories is Immediately applied to
practical agriculture.
A total of 1852 samples of vege-
table seeds was purchased and tested
for termination, and the results Of
these tests will be published. Some
of these garden peas-were
also grown in the field for truness
to name. Sweet-corn samples are be-
ing grown for field stands and OBJ
servation as to the presence of dis
ease.
The Winslow mail., 1923-01-12
Enforcement of Law.

The government of this Nation is
safe for it's people, and institutions
will prosper just so long as we have
a government of law enforced by duly
constituted authorities. When any
class, sect or organization pre-empts
the authority and arrogates to them
selves the power to set aside the pro-
visions of law, and in place thereof
The Winslow mail., 1923-01-12

When the question of selecting the
Adjutant General for the State arose.
| was informed by military men that
there were only handful of men in
Arizona who were qualified, under
the provisions of the present law, to
hold the office. There are manv men
in Arizona who were trained in the
great world war, and as a result Of
this experience are qualified to hold
the office of Adiutant General with
credit to themselves and advantage to
the State, but who are ineligible un-
der the, provisions of the present Law.
1t is detrimental to the State tC
confine eligibility to hold office TO
only a few men when many others
are qualified I therefore recommend
that Chapter 144 of the Session Laws
SveÌŒt = World. [volume] (Cleveland, Ohio) 1911-1939, 1923-12-26
PRosPERITA MLADEHo WooDA.
SYN A POBOCNfK GUvERNERA FILIPIN
. VYDFLAL IA KRATKY CAS- $8OO,OOO

Manila 25. prosnce - Porucik Osborne Cutler Wood,
pobonik generanfho guvernera Wooda navran do
poenych Stati nejspfse ku konc ledna myslem vzdat
sveho msa armade venovati Sc dipomacke sluzbe
Cita 26 rokd veku u, 5a%-
Tento krok jest neenom shode jeho naklonnosti,
avsak jest lepsim postaven podnknou je te pfftiny
ze nahromadil dOs penez aby moh v6nova dplomati
ckd karere bez ohedu sluzn6 jake jest tim spoeno
Zaroveh pax vychazi jevo, ze pozadave, ably vyse
tfoyana byla vada Fpnach do jake miry jei cleno-
We yyuzitkova svych rednh mist neb sveho vlvu vast
nmu prospechu neb ch pratel ma ou spojitost
porucikem Wooden. Po deA dobu proskakovaly poyes.
ze poruck Wood stasnym spekuacei vyziskal ohromne
jmen muvilo al 100000 ze mu dopomoho tomu
dfednl postavenf jeho otce.
Jeden americkych zdejsfch novnafskych zpravodajd
upozorn tyo povEst gen. Wooda, nebo byla jmi pod
ryvana auora vady atyz pfitomnos onoho zpravodaje
zavola sveho Porucik Wood dozna ze svym spe-
kuacemi nekolik mesci vyd9al $8O00OO nkol $2700
O00 ale ze byy to spekuace jeho vastn pest americ
kymi cennym papy jez nem9y zadneho vzahu podniky
Fpinach Gen. Wood, ackoli tom nespatfoval nceho
protzakonneho, zakaza svemu synovi das spekuace
bude voenske suzb9 naGez mlady Wood oznam ze
tax jako tax hoda il vzda yenovati draze diploma
tcke
Prvn stastnou spekulaci mlady Wood proved koupe-
MIN akc Standard Oil of New Jersey bezprosfedne pred
eich sensaGnfm vzesupe Jezto pocet koupenych akci
neby veky rovnez jeho vydeek ncbyl celke sok avsa
umoznil dalsl spekulace, jez byly smahem sastne