davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1923-02-04
DON'T DELAY

ANY LONGER. TIME IS MONEY. and the sooner you become &C., Quainted with our policy of sav- ings the sooner you will increase your earnings. You never forget your friends. Meet us and we will rest assured we won't be forgot
 ten. Every day in every way we are helping more and more people.
Evening star., 1923-11-18

with a population devoted largely to
making cheese and sweet chocolate.
The truth is, two-thirds of the busi-
ness Of Switzerland Is in the produce
tion Of luxury goods to be sold to
other parts Of the world. Nearly
every town or city Is beehive of
work. and almost every home makes
something to export. There Is one
town Of 10000 people which produces
100000 watches q year. and there are
towns In the Jura mountains which
make clocks and wooden toys. I
spent some time last week on Lake
Brienz, on the borders Of which is q
village OF wood carvers, who make
toys and other articles, which are
sold all over the. country. They have
wood-carving school. where the
boys are taught the art Of their
fathers. In some families all the men
have been wood carvers for hundreds
Of years. There are watch making
schools In Geneva and other cantons,
and weaving schools here at Zurich.
On the south side Of the Alps the
Evening star., 1923-11-18
swiss RAILROADS ARE s fkn Jew M USE ENTIRELY

This country makes fine clocks as
well. The stores sell clocks so small
that you can carry one in your vest
pocket, and there are others SO large
that they are At only for church
steeple. Neither watches nor clocks
are cheap. and I doubt whether the
average timepiece Of Switzerland is
any better or even as good as our
own.
TN eastern Switzerland, where I am
/ now. the skill Of the people turns
from metal to textiles. This Is
the great weaving and embroidery
center, just as western Switzerland is
the great matchmaking district.
This town of Zurich does big busi-
ness in silk. Its factories. compare
with those of Lyons in France. and it
makes quantities of silks which are
shipped to America. Basel, at the
head OF navigation of the Rhine, on
the border Of Germany, 10 the chief
place for the manufacture Of ribbons.
1t has something like 10000 looms
Evening star., 1923-11-18

ords OF English ladies Of that period.
It Is used on overblouses as on
brocade night frocks. and is we'll
place tailored suits as actual winter
weather comes In.
The square neck opening. q tradi.
tional fashion for centuries. exag-
geratedly popular with the Edward
ian ladies'. as was the extra deep W
shaped opening in the back. is used
in several kinds OF afternoon frocks.
The passion for white ermine with
black cloth or velvet gives the Dress
makers q chance to put an edge of
II between the fabric and skin. Half
the women Of both continents seem
to be wearing this black and white
combination. One OF the novel meth
DDS Of arranging 1t combines a slight
handkerchief scarf of ermine at the
edge Of a deep U-shaped front OPEN
ing which is high at back. The
scarf ends in two short streamers.
In the opening is a modesty piece of
white lace.
Even black tailored suits show
this straight-across modesty piece OF
lace instead OF a blouse. Only q
snug jacket. short and slim, buttoned
at the waist, needs 1t and carries 1t.
Leonora Hughes. the well dressed
dancer. dresses thus. adding a white
gardenia to the lapel.
This neat and old-fashioned sill
houette in a tailored suit. by the
way. must be regarded with interest.
1t is bound to be ruling fashion
next spring. It Is prevalent in France
Evening star., 1923-11-18

today. Tho new coats over there are
fashioned on the model Of a French
mans short coat. This winter We
will continue to wear the loose sack
coat Of the Englishman. but beware
OF . change after Easter.
The tight nattening brassiere 10
avoided by the French, who choose
the rounded bust line under the lace
modesty piece. That fashion. too.
will win out here when the fashions
are even more directoire than at
present. Lanvin's three belts on
evening gowns, one under the bust.
are Significant. Watch straws, there
fore. Get the best use Of the clothes
you possess.
TWO years ago some ono Invented
i most beguiling neck line on an
evening frock which now appears as
a novelty, and a good one at that
1t resembles a wheel with the base
Of the neck as the hub. The spokes
that run up to this hub are crystal
bands. metal braid, embroidery on
tulle. or curious designs done In rhine
stones on velvet. Beneath these
spokes the bare neck CLEANS The
rim of the wheel is far below the
hub. 1t Is q compromise between
exceeding decollete and a high neck.
1t has sufficient coquetry to please
the young.
Another curious and pleasing neck
opening for an afternoon frock COM
bines a loose Chinese band collar
with cravat and a deep delta, such
as was once worn by the Duchess Of
Evening star., 1923-11-18
Season Shows Wide Contrast Between Day and Evening

I backs. There Is no effort at con-
| cealment there.
In day hours our clothes hang
closely and Imply against our bodies
| from neck to hem. Beltless, wrinkle
less, without shred of ornamental
| tion we turn our backs to the world.
Some are good to look upon. Others
| need -concealment. No one cares
but not one must show in the back.
What nature has left undone, cut
ters and corsets must do. :.
From arctic. explorers and visored
knights We turn into OrientIs when
I the sun goes down. So sharp Is the
| change one would think we had heard
the wailing call from the muezzin
towers and turned our faces toward
Mecca. Not even a headdress con-
ceals the shape of the shingled head.
Gowns are lowered to show shoul-
ders and a goodly portion Of the
| spinal column. Arms are bare, ex-
cept for slave bracelets. which con-
tinue in fashion, especially when
worn above the elbow. There is
little or no drapery to disguise the
lines Of the body. The Oriental slip
| Is the ideal frock for evening gayety.
Oriental flesh is, happily, not our
ideal. The restaurant men insist
| that the madness for thinness is the
cause OF their diminishing receipts.
X + X X
HESIRE for exceptional slimness
II has brought into fashion the
pinafore underslip of our grand
mothers. Those who once traded well
In petticoats and later deplored their
disappearance have reason to rejoice
The French adopted this form of
undergarment when they discarded
corsets. but their example plus the
persuasion of the fashion writer's
made no impression upon the trades
people who supply our necessities.
The gradual acceptance of the
camisole skirt came along with the
eager acceptance OF the pinafore un-
derslip. Now we delight In both
garments. putting the latter beneath
our slender chemise evening frocks
and over the slightly boned girdle
corsets that leave the diaphragm as
free as any Oriental dancer could
desire.
No matter what the shape OF the
evening frock, It Is cut low in the
back. In front 1t may rise to the
collarbone. which is an exceptional
shaping. not wise for the majority.
We have released ourselves from the
thrall Of the high evening gown.
The harness of colored crystals
once worn by the audaciously low
tfrock is not revived. Whatever the
depth Of the decolletage 1t leaves the
back unadorned. Not even the sun
burn powder Of last season serves
as a covering. The whittier we are
the better.
The shape Of the fashionable back
decolletage is v or U. 1t still goes
to the alphabet for inspiration. The
edge of the frock Is left to itself.
! Galloon scratches. Bias facings of
| tulle are quickly disorderly. The
edge of the FABRIC is turned in, then
| blind stitched or pasted and left to
rest against the flesh. This is the
| artistic way to arrange a decolletage.
Anything added detracts from its
grace.
| There is no objection to displaying
Evening star., 1923-11-18

employing in the neighborhood Of
$4,000 workers. It makes the most
expensive fand the finer qualities Of
such goods, sending the greater part
to England and Scandinavia and but
little to the United States. Not far
from Lucerne they are making a
great deal of artificial silk, and st.
Gall sends overseas hundreds Of thou
sands of yards of embroideries to
trim the garments of the fair sex of
our country. They make also guam.
titles Of fine linen and silk lace. and
there are cantons such as Appenzell.
where they have been making hand
lace for centuries. Every woman and
girl knows how to make lace and the
most beautiful specimens often come
from women with hands like hams,
coarsened by their hard work In the
field.
Few people have much idea Of the
great part that industry holds In the
life Of the Swiss. They look upon the
country solely as a great mountain
resort, filled with tourists and hotels.
Evening star., 1923-11-18
Streams of Alps Will Soon Furnish All the Power Sitz

CWITZERLAND has 1900 watch fac
y tories. many Of which are stand
ardized. turning out watches by ma
chinery much as our cheap motor
cars are made in the factories of be
troit. where ton Of steel goes in at
one end and comes out at the other
as an automobile. The Swiss syli
every year millions Of this kind Of
watch. But the fine watches, such AS
are made in the factory I visited. ane
different. The workmen there are not
Industrial cogs. They use their brains
and skill and keenness of eyesight
Their fathers have been making
watches before them and they have +
hereditary skill which has come dowa
through the generations.
The making of q watch begins with
great sheets of brass, nickel and steei
which are cut into strips an inch OF.
so wide with machines, much like
those that paper stores use to cut,
cardboard. Little dies cut out blanks
for the various parts, and tiny ma
cogwheels. the screws and other in
finitesimal parts OF thee small
watches
AS I went from table to table
equipped with machines Of this kind,
I talked with the watchmakers. They
are both men and women. and not a
few are gray-haired. saw a man
of sixtyfive with a microscope cup
ped in his eye and was told that the
a,
sight Indeed, the manager tells me
one OF his men, now eighty-flv
worked fifty odd years before he was
retired on a pension. He is proud Of
his work and still comes down every
day to spend several hours at the
bench to keep his hand in.
The wages are low for skilled labor.
The women get from $3.50 to 81
day and the most expert men receive
S14o a month. They work forty
eight hours a week. asked my
guide as to the jewels Of a watch. He
says the number has little to do with
the perfection of the workmanship.
Jewels are used because the rubies
and sapphires are harder than any
metal, and the holes through them do
not wear as much as steel, nickel or
brass. This factory makes its own
jewels and finds synthetic rubies the
best.
Switzerland has been making
watches for three or four hundred
years. The industry was started here
by a Frenchman, the year after Sir
Francis Drake destroyed the Spanish
Armada. It began in the Jura noun
tains and thence spread throughout
western Switzerland. For generations
all OF the watches were made in the
homes of the workers, only one or
two parts being made at each house.
Later, factories were established and,
after the cheap American watch made
by machinery began to capture the
trade, the Swiss adopted similar
methods and made watches by thou
sands where they were formerly made
by the dozen. Many Of the fne watch
parts used In America are imported
from Switzerland. and this Is also
true Of the synthetic Jewels Of which
we take hundreds of thousands Of
dollars worth In a year. The United
States has always been one of the
chief buyers of Swiss watches. but we
import mostly the finished move
ments, making the cases ourselves.
Today Switzerland is producing in the
neighborhood OF 100000 watches a
year. but the world war disorganized
tho industry and It is now subsidized
by the government
Evening star., 1923-11-18

and France, has greatly affected the
number OF people coming to Switzer-
land. while the high exchange has
made 1t impossible for the Italians,
Austrians and Germans to spend their
money here. Formerly the Germans
were the best patrons. They came
three or four times a year and spent
freely. Now most of the money comes
from Americans, but they are spend
ing less per head than they did before
our prohibition law was enacted.
They do not drink as much. saying:
What Is the use OF spelling our
stomachs when we will soon be back
In q dry country?" Many of the
Americans do not drink at all. but
those who do get drunk very quickly.
and the more they drink the worse
they get. Americans take the best
rooms and as rule they pay the best
prices. Sometimes. think, they are
charged more.
Here at the Bellevue Palace in
Berne. where I have stayed a week,
I made q rate of about $12 a day for
myself and secretary. but when the
bill came in 1t was for SIS and the
landlord took an extra percentage on
the amount of the 1920 bill to give
to the servants. Tips are demanded
at nearly every hotel and one pays
at least 10 per cent extra for service.
It costs more now to run the hotels
than it did in the past. and charges
have gone up accordingly. The aver
age rate per day at the best is per-
haps IS dollars. Including room and
meals, but there are many good Sec
ond- class hotels where one can be
accommodated for 81 or IS and pen
sions where the price Is still less.
The food everywhere Is good and the
living better and cheaper than In the
United States. The hotel employees
are paid more than In the past. but
many OF the hotels evade this added
expense by asking the guests to give
service fees. Salaries of all kinds
are perhaps three times as high as
before the war. Food is almost dou-
bled in price and taxes have been
greatly increased. The income tax
Is at least 10 per cent
am surprised to find what an i'm
portant part agriculture has in this
land Of the mountains. One would
think nothing could be raised In a
country which Is all hills and hol-
lows. but the truth Is three-fourths
Of the total area OF Switzerland is
productive. There are several hum
dred thousand farms and 1t is esti-
mated that there are a quarter of a
million acres in farms Of less than
fifteen acres in size. Every patch
which Is not covered with rocks or
snow Is either cultivated or used
for pasture or forest. About 80 per
cent Of the land Is wooded and almost
40 per cent is given up to raising
grass. High up in the mountains you
will find fat patches OF green as big
as a bed quilt, separated by stone
piles and with cows feeding between.
The cows are started into the noun
tains as soon as the grass sprouts
and are driven higher and higher as
summer comes on.
The people watch these patches and
manure them every year. When the
automobiles began coming over the
mountains they feared that the dust
raised would hurt the grass and I am
told they often threw buckets Of filth
at the cars to show their displeasure.
But this is not SO today.
Nearly every farmer knows how to
make cheese and something like 1000
Evening star., 1923-11-18

Italian Swiss are breeding silk worms,
and there is one district that raises
snails for the stomachs of Paris.
There are villages where the boys
learn special trades and go to other
countries to practice them. one town
sending out masons and glaciers and
another graduating fine pastry cooks.
The walters Of the hotels all over
Europe and many Of the best chefs
and managers have been trained here
In Switzerland.
X X \ \
T>HE tourist and hotel business OF
i Switzerland is an important ele-
ment in the life of the nation.
There are thousands of hotels and
they represent an investment of about
100000, 900. They spend for provi-
sions and help something like $2o,-
100000 a year, and before the war
they paid a big profit in good sea-
sons. II the summer Is sunny the re-
oeipts are large; IL It rains. they fail
of. The world war, which for a time
impoverished Germany, Austria, Italy
Evening star., 1923-11-18

smoothly with q little cold milk. add
the we'll beaten whites of three eggs
and mix in the boiling milk. Stir the
preparation over the fire until It is
cups which have been wet In cold
water. Turn the rice out Of these
when cold and pour round the little
shapes a custard made with the yolks
Of the eggs. Put a spoonful OF jam
or jelly on each mold. II eaten cold.
any kind of fruit sirup may be used
instead of the lam or Jelly.
Evening star., 1923-11-18
BY ANNE RTTTENHOUsE,

~ ARE-BACKED we 60 into even
- ing life this winter. Into the
streets we 60 forth so pur-
posely concealed that we re-
semble arctic explorers. 1t is not easy
to tell friend from foe
In days when knights went aborad
in armor It was the custom to lift
tho visor Of the metal helmet when
meeting friend. Such was the
origin Of lifting the hat on the street
to an acquaintance. Women may
have to go back to these knightly
days. 1t would save much annoy
ance and curiosity II we should lift
the visor OF the c!oche a bit as we
Evening star., 1923-11-18

factories are devoted to the industry.
Fifteen million dollars worth of
cheese is exported and the factories
annually use something like 10000
600 gallons of milk. The butter made
10 consumed in this country and some
Is imported from Denmark. The cream
is excellent, but as a rule one gets
only hot milk for his coffee at the no.
tells. The Swiss also make a great
deal OF condensed milk and milk
chocolate. Millions of dollars are In
vested In the chocolate industry and
during the world war the home con-
sumption OF this candy food greatly
increased and large quantities were
also exported
SWITZERLAND labors at great dis
~ advantage from an Industrial
standpoint through her lack of raw
materials of any kind and especially
coal. She has no minerals of value
and she has to import all the fuel she
uses to make steam or electricity. As
an offset to this she has begun to de-
velop her water power and in time
the white coal" Of the mountains
will make her Independent OF the
black diamonds" which now come In
at exorbitant prices from Germany,
France or Great Britain. The charges
are SO high as to be almost prohibi-
tive and wood Is practically the only
fuel. An American woman who lives
here tells me she had to pay SIS q
ton last winter for coal. As a result,
every stick of fuel Is saved The
woodpiles are kept under cover and
If left out or doors a roof is put up e.
keep Off the rain.
The great hope OF the country is n
waterfalls Of the Alps. The force q
these has been measured and it is es-
timated that there is available about
100000 horsepower. or what some
say is equal to 100000 tons Of coal
every year. The United States is now
using about elk hundred million tons
Of coal per annum. or about six tons
per person II the above estimate is
correct the white coal' Of Switzerland
would be equal to ten tons per head 1t
would run all the Swiss factories and
railways. and light and heat every home
In this mountainous land.
The world war showed the Swiss how
important It is that they should be in
dependent In the production Of power.
and the government Is harnessing the
streams as rapidly as It possibly can.
II has already electrified more than
three hundred miles Of the railways.
and within a very few years every train
in the country will be electrically
driven. They are already taken through
the St. Gothard tunnel that way, and
the electridcation Of the lines from
Goldau to Zoug and Immensee to Rot
kreuz has been completed. The line
from Lucerne to Zurich has also been
electrified and the Swiss engineers are
speeding the work all over the
country. The entire system of rail-
ways would reach from here across
the Atlantic to New York and be-
yond. In 1890 lines having a total
mileage as great as tine distance
from Detroit to New Orleans were
electrically operated. including the
Simplon line and the Simplon tunnel.
and the remarkable cogwheel rail-
way which I took in my trip up the
Jungfrau.
The Rhine, the Aare anu the Rhone
are all to be more or less harnessed.
and even the smaller waterfalls of
the Alps vii produce an abundance
of juice.
Copyright. 1923, Carpenters World Trsveis.)
Evening star., 1923-11-18


DLucK hair from the head Of
- your baby. Stand 1t on end
under a microscope and split
it lengthwise into 500 strips.
Now measure the thickness Of each
strip and If your work Is correct you
may see the exactness OF the tools of
a Geneva watch factory. 1t was al
most under the shadow of the pal
ace of the league Of nations that I
went through an establishment which
has been making watches for $50
years. The same firm owns it today.
and It was Mr.. Constantin, descend
ant of the original founder, who took
me from room to room and showed
timepieces.
Our American watches are made al
together by machinery. For ages the
finest Swiss watches have been made
by hand and the chronometers Of to.
day are produced by a combination
Of handwork and small machines run
by electricity. These machines are
wonders Of construction. They work
to the one eighteen -thousandth Of an
inch. and every man at the bench has
a micrometer which he applies from
time to time to see that the parts are
Just right. These micrometers meas
ure q hair as you might measure a
log with a pair of calipers. In or
der to test this, ! pulled out one Of
the sandy gray hairs still left on the
roof of my Uranium and the watch
maker tested its size. 1t was FIVE
hundredths Of a millimeter thick, and
the teweler nattered me by saying.
s.It is as fine as the hair Of woman"
Some Of the screws made are more
tiny than the head Of a pin, and cog
weels are cut which are not as big as
the finest grain Of sand on the sea-
shore. Indeed, you have to use a
microscope to see the teeth forming
the coKs. Nevertheless a wheel Of
. that size has to have Just as many
cogs as the cylinder IS big around as
in q giant chronometer. The factory
1nakes some watches not as large as
your thumbnail and others twice the
diameter OF the palm of your hand.
Every watch has ITO parts and the
only difference In the largo and the
small is tho size Of tho parts.
Tho owner Of this factory told me
some interesting things about
watches. He says no watch keeps
perfect time. but they are able to
mako chronometers here so exact that
they vary only q second In twenty
four hours or just about six minutes
a year. II you will open your watch
and look at the balance wheel which
flies back and forth, you may have
some idea Of what such figures mean.
That balance wheel is making about
$4,000 revolutions an hour. and as It
swings back and forth. II travels
thousands Of miles every year. As
remomber 1t, the man said 1t goes
eighteen miles every day: neverthe-
lses. In q distance as far 40 from New
York to Detroit its variation is only
fvs feet.
And then tho oil It takes to keep
these Jewels in continual motion.
You know how your motor car eats
oil and that should the oil fail the
car would stop; you have to replenish
st nearly every day. A good watch
needs oil only every two years. and
the finest need only a drop one-tenth
al large n the head OF q pin to keep
their works uOving that time with.
lput friction.
Evening star., 1923-11-18

Vendome and Victorian ladies. The
cravat ties across the delta, which
extends to the bust. Beneath the
cravat goes a string of pearls. rock
crystals. Jade, or amber, whatever
one chooses to wear In these most
bejeweled days.
Copyright. 1921