davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-04-01

At least the Watteau effect is pro-
nounced at the back. Broad trains,
gay in color, hang to the floor from
the shoulder blades. They are made
of taffeta, of old brocade, of lace.
The decoration at the back of a
frock grows in Importance. Those
Lanvin gowns with their bustles, the
Callot gowns with their Watteau
trains, the Vionnet gowns with the
swirling jabot that drops from a
point between shoulder blades to
knees or hem, are jostling each other
for space in the collection of new
clothes.
A strong reminder of Egypt or
Babylon Is the diamond frock." 1t
had it's first showing last autumn.
Now 1t dominates evening clothes.
Georgette crepe is the usual founda-
ton for a most ornate display of
rhinestones, cut crystals, sometimes
seed pearls.
There is nothing new about the
frock. even when 1t is made on Egyp-
tian lines, but there is some effort
to vary it's appearance by using a
straight bodice of crepe satin or sill
yer cloth and dropping long strings
of crystals overga short. narrow skirt.
This gives the effect of a chandelier.
Evening star., 1923-04-01

dropped down into this careless pos
ture The lack of corsets promoted
it. The dance demanded II.
Whenever the public has seen well
corseted, high-shouldered, straight
backed woman carrying herself in a
stately manner it has been divided
between admiration and derision. Men
liked this figure. They have since
corsets were invented. But women
laugh at II, and therefore it took
courage or vanity to perpetuate It,
!; X X X
IF these upward tilted skirts are
L accepted in mass no one would be
surprised to see women bend forward
instead Of slump downward. If the up
tilted ruffies and punched skirts are
not throttled at the beginning of their
career women Will surely bend for
ward to exploit the fashion. They
will give the effect of women walk
ing on their toes. AS high heels per-
sist they will help the attitude.
So much for the Victorian phase Of
clothes. 1t Is strongly evident in all
the dressmakers brought from Paris.
1t is important. So don't forget it
when you are talking Egypt and be-
lieving that only the Nile influences
clothes The Thames has somewhat t
to say, also.
Evening star., 1923-04-01

on clothes. When summer comes fur
will come with It.
Don't overlook the Importance Of
peltry. Odds and ends of It are pulled
from shelves and boxes to decorate
thin frocks and wraps. 1t is gray, 1t
Is brown. 1t Is dyed any color desired.
1t borders wide sleeves, 1t outlines
the open sides of tunics, 1t runs at
top Of hem on a Georgette frock. 1t
may revive the hot weather fashion
of fur fox on the shoulders, which
obsessed women before the war There
is no reason to suppose we are more
sensible than the generation preced-
ing. We've never shown any sign Of
such development.
Capes often replace coats and they
fiaunt ruf1es. Only one hounce may
be used, a circular hounce to build
the cape downward from the shoul-
ders. Or three or four ruffies may be
used. all circular, edged with braid
or lattice work of the cloth.
Capes that substitute for Jackets are
short. They disappear in front. Their
glory is at the back and in the pre-
tentious turnover collars and con-
spicuous cravats. Sometimes they are
Evening star., 1923-04-01

cause it was all this. housework not
only kept a woman busy but minis
tered to her hunger for adventure and
competition, her creative energy and
her personal pride, which are a part
of every normal workers heritage.
Times changed. Populations in
creased. Education spread. Machines
came. Things had to be made more
quickly and for greater numbers of
peoples. Homes, save in isolated
places, stopped being community GEN.
other places for the community to
congregate. They also stopped being
factories, for homemade goods no
longer paid" Soap. matches. cloth.
clothes, soups, carpets, furniture, med
icines - the list is endless; these
things were sll made more success
fully and economically outside the
home by men with man-made ma
chimes.
X X x X
NTOMAN'S position as. community
w counselor and Industrial expert
had been taken away. and with her
position had gone that element which
made housework a career rather than
a drudgery. With 1t had gone also
the pride and content which were
twin altar fires in the happy home.
What Is left? Work, without civic
Importance, industrial significance or
personal satisfaction. A job which
offers the smallest tangible recon-
pense. a career which only great
love or great wealth can render at
Evening star., 1923-04-01
! was a most enticing advertise

vt was a most enticing advertise
,ment. Upon twelve-foot ex
,panse OF billboard were depicted
She ravishing attractions of some
body's bread. There stood the bread,
gold and white, fresh, spotless. allur-
ing.g Your mouth fairly watered at
the sight of 1t! In back OF the bread,
offering you the delectable master
piece. stood its proud creator. Gold
and white. fresh, spotless, alluring.
your mouth fairly watered at the
sight .of--him! For it was him. No
white-capped maiden thus dispensed
her wheaty wares, but a husky youth,
brawny of arm and shaven Of jowl.
The modern custodian of the loaf!
Which, when you think it over, gives
food for thought!
Much has been said of woman's in
vasion of the man world. and most of
the remarks have been peevish. why
don't you stay where you belong?"
snarl the outraged males. Thereupon,
with loud. moist sobs they proceed to
describe that once-so-scared woman's
sphere and the part dear mother
used to play therein. Well. what has
happened 20 woman's sphere, and why
doesn't the modern wife play there
with the zest exhibited by her grand
mother?
Men have happened to women's
sphere.
That's what has happened.
And that is why the twentieth
/ ~asvry girl 10 leaving homo to look
Evening star., 1923-04-01
SILHOUETTE

Huge bows at the front of a bodice.
as if the hustle had slipped around
from spine to abdomen. Green faille
silk frocks with skirts that touch
the toes in front and sweep on the
floor for a half yard at back, the sur
face covered with small ruffies edged
with ruching or braid; heterogene-
Gus mass of fat, round collars, deep.
shallow, plain. ornamental. The harsh
neck line of cloth promises to be COM
pletely discarded. 4 woman can wear
a collar without feeling she is filching
from the past without excuse and
without proclaiming too much indie
pendence.
Those who study fashion periods
ask if the historic Greciau bend will
appear with the uptilted skirt and
hustle. Maybe. 1t is no more grotesque
than the debutante slouch and not as
unhealthy.
Against it's revival, however, is the
long swinging stride which our wom-
en- may not know how to discard.
Each generation has It's own particu-
lar physical gesture of fashion. This
generation has "the slump" Nothing
that doctors, dietists, physical cul-
turists have said against the so-calIed
debutante slouch has the effect of de-
creasing it. Even older women
Evening star., 1923-04-01
EUIL skirts and tight bodices con-

EULL skirts and tight bodices con-
tinue. A year ago we insisted
they were period gowns, available
for the young and picturesque wom-
en- who like to depart from the con-
ventional. But facts change opin-
ions. The period gown is established.
When sweeping skirts covered with
ruff1es fitting upward are moved by
designers into the front row of fash
ion 1T is not to be expected that
second empire frocks and medieval
skirts should be shelved.
New frocks continue to show wide
skirts, sometimes a full one flying
over the narrow one. This trick is
particularly effective in lace and taft
feta. which is combination of dis
tinction at this hour.
Lace surely has its innings In
black and white. in most fashionable
colors, 1t is built into afternoon and
evening frocks. Some of 1T glitters
with crystals and colored jewels in
the oriental manner; again it is edged
with colored marabou, and ever so
often it Is bordered with fur. 1t
makes little difference to the design
ers that summer is coming as long
AS tney ss pieces Of peltry to put
Evening star., 1923-04-01

tractive and which, lacking that
wealth, entails enormous sacrifice
upon the woman. And ignorance does
not blind the modern girl to that
sacrifice.
The modern girl is educated with
her brother. and Is capable of earn
ing as much, If not more, than he.
The same ideals of working efficiency
and economy which are held before
him are held before her Part of an
intensely vital age, she is trained for
intensely vital service. And then
she is faced with housework, Is It
any wonder that she becomes rest
less? Or that she Views her work
with the same distrust and disgust
which he would feel?
She may, and, generally does, love
her family dearly. But she knows
perfectly well that she could sell her
time with greater profit for them as
we'll as herself And she cannot es-
cape the knowledge that after her
children are grown she will face
empty, envious years. If the posi-
tion were reversed, I wonder how
many men would take up matrimony
as career under the inducements
now offered!
But" you ask, isn't it possible
for a Young married woman to find
enough and more than enough to do
in her home without looking for
further work? And what pay can
she possibly want more than the love
Of her husband and babies?"
X X X
IVES, it is quite possible for her to
i find more than enough to do.
1t would also be quite possible for
John D. Rockefeller to busy himself
peddling gas at a service station or
for Mr.. Harding to keep his time
filed sweeping the steps of the White
House. 1t isn't the amount of work
you do, but the quality Of that work
that keeps you happy. Milly's great
grandmother worked far harder than
she does, but twas work which paid
in pride and respect. Millys work. in
comparison to that. is janitor service.
AS for the love Of her husband and
babies being enough to fill her soul
would love be enough to crown a
mans ambition?
What is going to come Of it? Much
One sphere has been taken from
woman, but she will find another.
She will still be wife and mother,
but she will also manage to be a
worker and citizen of Importance as
she once was. Since she cannot oust
machines and institutions from her
life, she will learn to use them as her
husband has learned to use them.
She will dispose of her "janitor serv-
ice" as he has disposed Of his, and
find fitting employment for some of
her waking hours outside the home
work which will keep her young,
active and content, and give her back
again that place In the scheme of
things which men and their machines
have taken awa1~
(Copy . {at, 1923.
Evening star., 1923-04-01
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.

T Is not necessary TO watch new
clothes on this gay Sunday to
see where fashion leads. The
Easter fashion parade is a myth
mostly believed by newspaper editors
and many other kinds of men.
Women know different.
In small ceRters. under benign
skies. there may be a flashing forth
of new frocks and hats. In stupen-
dous thoroughfares fashionable wom-
en- insist upon being inconspicuous.
but the leaders of style, as we call
certain sets of women. put on their
oldest clothes for the Easter service.
Social parading in the afternoon es-
pec!ally in 5th avenue, is left to the
curious who do not. realize that - j..
Easter fashion parade is finished.
Progress and civilization have wiped
II off the social map.
Palm Beach gives us spring clothes
in January. Paris gives US the
spring fashions in February. March
is the month for interpreting. adapt
ing and explaining these fashions to
the American people. So today, the
1st OF April, which proclaims Easter
and April FOOLS day at the same
hour, IS merely the beginning Of a
month when new clothes are ex-
plotted SO far they have been in the
hands Of traders and designers. Now
they are possessed by the public.
IT'S an alarming fact TO admit that
the hustle is here Every one argued
against 1t during the winter. but In
the winter France dipped both hands
into mid -Victorianism and pulled
forth the wide skirt with ruffies
across the back, tip-tilted toward the
spine and elaborately finished with a
Evening star., 1923-04-01
Anticipating Spring.

II you want to have a bowl OF
blooming hepatica, that very first wild
flower of spring, on your window
sill long before the spring flowers
have dreamed of stirring outside,
then go into the woods some week
end very soon now and dig up some
roots of this lovely little plant. II
you do not know II, you can easily
find 1t by watching for a clump of
heart shaped leaves, highly burnish-
ed and showing warm colors of red
and brown and green. These leaves
keep their color all winter and
usually grow on woodsy hillsides be-
meath deciduous trees.
At any time after the frosts have
changed the colors of hepatica leaves
the roots may be gathered and
brought into the house and they will
bloom charmingly within two or
three weeks. have had large bowls
of these fragile spring blooms at
Christmas time, but 1 did this only
once I think they are not so ap-
propriate to the Christmas season as
they are to the long chilly days of
March, when spring seems to keep
her distance, although we are SO i'm
patient for her coming.
The best way to handle them is TO
bring in with them a trowelful OF
their own rich earth. Pack them in
newspaper and transfer them. earth
and all, to low bowl. One of ham
mered copper is exquisite, as the cop
per color is echoed in the glossy red
dish leaves. The bowl need not have
any drainage IL the surplus water is
poured out. of the bowl after the
daily watering of the plants. The
plants may be packed in rather close
together. SO thst when they bloom
the whole bowl is mass of blossoms
4. As..n1e snrhifa
Evening star., 1923-04-01

Victorian fashions do not preclude
Egyptian ones. We have name and
an episode on which to hang a
thousand garments and trinkets, and,
| being nation Of superb publicity
methods, we have slipped into the
fashion Of labelling all oriental
clothes Egyptian. Maybe they are
Maybe they are not.
True. the French collections on
which our spring clothes are based
show that Egypt has been IN the
minds of Paris designers since Sep
tember. The house of Callot, which
constantly draws inspiration from the
east has a new gown embroidered
with pyramids. some straight, some
inverted.
In rivalry with 1t Ca1lot projects a
movement toward Watteau frocks
Evening star., 1923-04-01

bow that could be called by no other
name than a hustle. 1t is the tenta-
tive beginning of a perilous fashion.
Well may it lead to those old con-
traptions of wire and padding which
women fastened about their corsets
in the year 1880.
TT is better not to scoff at a fashion
i when it first appears. You may
be wearing it within two months.
That's the frightened attitude women
havo toward the hustle. Today it is
purely an outside decoration. 1t is
made of ribbon, of silk, of white
organdie. Jeanne Lanvin catches up
the ruffies of a green Victorian silk
frock with an immense organdie bow
near the end of the spine to show
what she thinks of the fashion.
The hustle is not alone in the Vic
torian revivals. There is an amazing
tendency to tilt the skirt upward
Even when the front is not longer
than the back there's a mass of ruff
fies across the back which give the
skirt the appearance OF being held
out by little hoops.
There are long basques with such
skirts; elongated, tigure-f1tting gar
ments. They go over the skirt or hold
its gathers in place. The hips are
fiattened in every style of skirt. Re-
mem ber that.
There is the princess frock fastened
from collar bone to ankle with COL
ored buttons and made voluminous
with six or eight ruffies across the
back. Paul Caret makes such a gown
in plaid taffeta. A glance at old prints
or photographs will prove the Vic
torianism OF this plaid design.
Other Victorian fashions are these:
Evening star., 1923-04-01

snapped to the skirts to keep them
from flying.
There are long capes, too, which
resemble the coats Of winter that did
service as frocks in an emergency.
Crepe de chine is used for these capes
and when it is not rufffed it is corded
or covered with a Iattice-work Of
narrow braid or small bands of ma
terial.
There is no end to the decoration
of cloth on cloth, usually in lattice
design. Victorian fashions sponsored
the plaid effect because of the queens
liking for her Highlanders. So in the
Victorian revival a simulated plaid
is gotten through the use of cord
ings, braidings and bias bands of
fabric. 1t is less conspicuous than the
introduction OF printed stripes.
a Nd what OF skirts for the street?
"A What of jackets?
The former are short. The French
skirts brought over by our buyers
are ten and twelve inches from the
floor; they are plain or slightly gath
cred to a shapely hip yoke, rarely
circular.
The bolero jacket runs a winning
race. It is embroidered, braided and
gaily. lined. The straight tunic to the
hips Is its rival. All coats are belt
less and all have long sleeves except
few sleeveless boleros which permit
immense pleated blouse sleeves to
emerge. When a coat sleeve is long,
it is also wide, and there is no hest
fancy in filing it with ruffles of lace
at the back below the elbow.
Quite enough novelty in the April
clothes to make the problem stimu
lating, don't you think?
Copyright, 1921
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
Guardian of the Crown Jewels.

A curious privilege attaches to the
Keeper Of the jewel house of the
Tower of London, in that 'he hath
no superior officer in court or king
dem" He receives no orders except
from the king himself, or conveyed to
him through the lord chamberlain
The origin of the rule is clear, for in
more turbulent days ii would have
been easy for some traitor to order
the keeper to hand over the kings
jewels to him. In spite Of this care,
however, the jewels were tempered
with and sometimes stolen. The mag
nificent "aquamarine." which used to
be on the top of the kings crown,
was found to be of glass; where the
original went none can say.-London
Mail.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
When the sultan Smiled.

Among Mr.. Straus duties as am
bassador to the Porte was an occa-
sional visit to SeIamlik. at which time
the sultan goes to his prayers inside
the mosque and the ambassadors and
other visitors wait to See him pass by.
Once, he tells us in his Under Four
Administered TONS" he took his seven
year-old son with him to see the SPLEEN
did pageant. The child leaned out as
far as he could to get good view
of the sultan as he passed beneath in
his victoria. 1.-THE sultan bowed in
acknowledgment of our greeting,
when suddenly Roger realized that he
had not taken off his cap and pulled
1t off rather comically. This made the
sultan smile, and it was the only time
ever saw his habitually sad face
wreathed in a SMILE"
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
INAUGURATION
NON-PARTISAN CITY GOVERN
MENT STARTS THIRD YEAR.
Outline of City Affairs and Recon-
mendatiOns for Coming Year by
Mayor Foster.

Ellsworth's non-partisan city gov
eminent assumed office Monday for
the third term. At the morning
session, the mayor and aldermen
were sworn in and Mayor Foster
gave his inaugural address.
A pleasing touch was added to the
city rooms by a huge floral horseshoe
directly back of the mayors chair.
This was presented the mayor by the
executive force of the Carroll Felt
Shoe Co. in token of it's esteem
for MI Foster, it's treasurer
The meeting was called to order
by City Clerk Cunningham, and on
motion of Alderman Harry G. STRAIT
ton, it was voted to accept the re-
turns of the several ward clerks as
evidence of election. City Clerk
Cunningham called the roll, and the
full board responded as follows:
Ward Harry G. Stratton.
Ward 2-Edward F. Small.
Ward 3--Russell j. Smith
Ward Lyndon H. Phillips.
Ward 5-Walter H. Cushman.
The aldermen were sworn in by
the city clerk, and organized with
Harry c. Stratton as chairman of the
board. After prayer, offered by
Rev. George T. Jones of the Uni
tartan church, the mayor was sworn
in by the city clerk.
REMARKS BY THE MAYOR.
The mayors address brought out
number of interesting facts and de-
tails of last years work of the city
government, and outlined plans for
the coming year. Practically every
thing of importance was touched
upon.
In commenting upon the desire Of
Collector of Taxes Martin l.. Adams
not to be a candidate again this
year, the mayor referred to the eff
HCleHcy SHo"u III tHlS pdlliculdI Ol-
flee. An item of importance was the
interest which has been turned into
the city's treasury during Mr..
Adams term, amounting to ST.
S5032 in all Mayor Foster urged
the taxpayers to cooperate with the
collector in his work, and materially
aid the city in tightening it's burdens.
Ellsworth can't pay her bills unless
the taxes are collected" he said.
raise in the clerks salary was
advocated as the present city clerk,
Mr. Cunningham, has been very eff
ficient official and in several in
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14

Immediately after opening the
afternoon session, the board pro
ceeded to the election of officers, the
following being elected, all unani-
mously:
City clerk, j. A. Cunningham
Collector of taxes, Martin L..
Adams
Chief engineer of fire department,
Royal j. Goodwin.
Second assistant, Irving B. Sails
bury
Building inspector, j. H. Mason.
Chairman overseers of the poor, j.
s Donovan
Health officer, DR.. H. L. D. Wood
ruff.
Fire warden, Elmer Dewitt
Member Of school board for
three years, j. j. Whitney.
Member of school board for one
year to fill unexpired term of H. s..
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
ELLSWORTH SCHOOL NOTES.
nv Supt H. e. Henry)

The schools of Ellsworth, except
those having time to make up, closed
March g. There will be vacation of
one week in the high school and two
weeks in the rural and grade schools.
At present there is some sickness re-
ported among the children, but none OF
a contagious nature.
With the opening of the spring term,
we trust that there will be better aver
age attendance in the schools, and that
every parent will feel responsibility i'll
the matter, since the status OF the chlld
in the grades will depend in great
measure upon the attendance, and we
cannot do the child the injustice of pro-
noting him to grade for which he IS
not prepared.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
Value Of Shadows.

Reflections and shadows form an i'm.
portant aid to decoration. The shadow
OF a spray of roses or a group of tall
grasses against light wall or table
is very beautiful. So is the reflection
of well-planned group of furnitNe
or pottery in mirror. A gray sill
houette of vine is sometimes painted
on the window shade of sun room to
give the effect of shadow.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
Newspaper Readers.

Figures of the daily newspaper cir
culation In the United States show
that there is on the average one sub
scriber to every 3.6 inhabitants. Mas
sachusetts leads the list of states
with one 81 Scri5er to every 10 in
habitants tn'H seven stotes have a
proportion fef it:n ,n i@er to
every ten tas@ rs. .a. AZ state
rams as t." 5 iii
Youths -
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14
To Meet At Bar Harbor.

The executive board has announced
that the annual fall meeting of the
Maine Federation of Women's Clubs
will be held at Bar Harbor. The exact
date has not vet been set.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1923-03-14

The mistress felt anxious about the
mushrooms. You haven't forgotten"
she said, ito put silver quarter in
with the mushrooms to prove that they
aren't poisonous?" mo, indeed,
ma'am," said the cook, IAN to make
certain, put in a 50-cent piece"