Evening star., 1923-07-01
Desert Visitors Slip From 10th Century Back Into Remote

| like All, our beloved cook at Jedabia,
is worth his weight In gold. There
was much difference of character be-
tween the Farrajes. One had a square,
bestial face with a few broken yell
low teeth. He was a grumbler and
Infinitely lazy, shirking all work,
stealing everything he could lay his
hands on.
The other was bfg, brutal and
stupid with something of the nature
Of kindly bulldog. He would oc-
casionally return US dates or -four.
saying, 1--WE have enough. Why do
you not eat yourselves?" We thought
he might be turned into a good serv-
ant eventually, for he did not mind
cooking and washing up. The point
of view Of both was that they were
soldiers and not servants. They were
prepared to fight. but not to work.
AS matter of fact caravan guard
ed by blacks Is rarely attacked, as
the Beduins know 1t will generally
be defended to the last inch.
1t Is generally impossible to buy
food in the desert oases. There are
no regular customers and no suq
(market). Each family produces
enough for its own consumption only
rule. A mejidie buys a great sackful,
and though Buseima and Ribiana, for
example, do not pay taxes in money.
they feed the Sayed's camels free
when they happen to pass through.
They also pay a percentage of sacks
Of dates yearly to the government.
An official comes from Kufara to coll
lect them.
At the village OF Buseima we ex-
plored a good many ruined Tebu
houses scattered here and there on
the rough salt waste between our
camp and the cliffs. The walls were
still in good condition and the houses
were larger than on the farther side
of the lake. The biggest round bee
hive room measured feet 6 inches in
diameter. I left Hassanein to tell the
retinue that we would start the next
morning and to listen to their elabo-
rate plans for defense upon the way,
while I went with Abdullah to visit
his relations in the nefghboring viii
lage.
His sister lived in a low hut made
of palm branches and a little square
court in front. with a wall Of the
ing inside the one room except some
mats OF plated fronds. few woven
grass bowls full of dates, couple of
yellow gourds, a kidskin Of water and
some rather doubtful blankets. The
whole life of these people depends on
the palm. Their houses, mats, bowls,
food. drink, baskets. string. shoes.
stuffing for camel saddles. all come
from il.
Several women gathered round me
in the cool darkness Most of them
were pretty, with pale olive faces and
pointed chins. The dark eyes of a
Latin race looked out between heavy,
black-frined Iashes, their features
were finely cut and they had the most
beautiful peariy teeth I have ever
seen. They told me it was the effect
terested them In me was a gold fill
ing! They thought 1t was a new form
of jewelry. and every one, in turn,
was called upon to inspect and poke
my unfortunate tooth. IF we have
gold" they said, I'VE make it into
necklaces and earrings. Why do you
wear II in your MOUTH
They insisted on unwinding my
cumbersome red hezaam, which I had
always rolled round my waist, and,
swathing 1t very low on my hips,
which gave me the immensely long
bodied effect of all Arab women. They
showed me all their jewelry-huge
silver earrings, necklaces and anu
lets-and asked me why had no tat
too marks to show my tribe. Alto
gether we spent an amusing hour In
the dark palm room. varied by drink
ing sour goats milk out OF bowls
made of palm wood, and eating dry,
black dates almost too hard to bite.
+ y ~
livery morning while we were at
IL Tai, q light tap came on my green