San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-26
Velvet Trimmed With Fur
! to Be Popular and Three
tone Color Schemes in
Ensemble Are Approved.
], BY JULIE BEAUREGARD.
Special Cable to The San Antonio Light
and the Chicago Daily News.
Copyright, 1923.

and the Chicago Daily News.
Copyright. 1928.
Paris. Aug. c5.-By what magic d.
Paris dressmakers anticipate durin.
the hot midsummer days what the pro
verbally uncertain feminine natur,
will approve in October and Decem
Der?
1t must be magic for they inves
fortunes each year with apparent,
perfect confidence into materials ant
the execution of completely new col
lections of women's clothes.
BY intuition reinforced by lon;
training and experience with frocb
purchasing women they know nj
merely that what was the rage la-r
season cannot be repeated this. bu'
also they know what direction the re
action or development will take. Then
genius lies in anticipating with a dc.
gree of nicely and exactitude the drif,
of this desire for variety and foretell
ing how far the change must go t.
appeal most strongly. Each big firir
has ITS individual conception OF thu
novelties that will prove popular
Some emphasize one thing and som,
another, yet il is surprising how. be-
htdth al luc StpdIulc IuOlINtS llllTD
duced by the various coutouriers. there
runs a common note of unity in d.
versity, which is not intentional. TO,
each house guards jealousy its own
: new models.
Waist Line Is Gone.
Foremost among the features char
acterizing the styles for the coming
winter is the almost complete disap.
pearance Of the waist line. In man,
OF the newest creations belts. girdlc
or any division OF the gown itself thai
might indicate the presence of the
waist line are equally taboo.
Most gowns are slender, tube shspei
affairs, following an uninterrupted
course from the shoulder To just above
the knee but when this strategic
point is reached the coutouriers differ
as TO what shall happen TO the re.
mainder of the skirt.
This season, in one way or another.
the creative genius of the designers
seems to be concentrated chiefly OF
the skirts. As if in obedience to some
law the waists of the gowns almOS.
without exception are plain and simpl:
with the sleeves showing virtually no
unconventional shapes. The latter ar.
either long and snug fitting or YER,
short. No kimOno sleeves are seen and
the armhole is normal everywhere
Modest. square cut neck lines nrevai,
though in numerous street frocks Pet
er Pan collars or one-incb standin.
collars with little ties in front ar
used.
Skirts, however, show considerable
diversity. Patoux and several other,
exhibit a much greater fulness of the
skirts contrived by circular cuts eth,
er of the skirts themselves or Of thu
flounces or inserted godpts that trim
them. As indicated. the circular move
ment. whether in the trimmings or j.
the garment itself. most freduentlJ
happens below the knees. Many sler
der sheath-like gowns gain full
ripple at the bottom hens BY the in
sertion Of pointed godets Mt the side,
ofthe skirt. Godet means simnly {
circular cut. gore or flounce. Godei
thus applied at the sides do not de-
stroy the long. flat unbroRen bacl
and front line so essential to the new
silhouette
Some More Conservative.
Chanel. Jenny and Drecoll arc NOR:
conservative in the use ~ the c'rcuia,
cuts and apply the flattest and mos
meager flounces to their otherwis,
narrow silhouettes.
With Molyneaux. who swings III,
farthest in straight. unaccented line
in all types of garments and uses a,
most no circular godets. we find
striking exemplication of the secon,
salient feature of the new modes
namely. the double skirt. To a create
or less degree every firm Incorporate
this feature in certain straight-lin
types Of gowns Such gowns give tn
impression Of slim. elongated slip-cva
Juniper dresses worn with a narroy