Evening star., 1923-02-04

brushed wool are lined Win green
silk or crepe de chine.
AS for knitted gowns, they do not
depart from the conventional. They
remain as they were. They slip over
the head, they are loosely girdled at
top of hips. the sleeves take whatever
form they choose. There is a feeling
against tight sleeves buttoned at the
wrist among women who like sports.
They prefer sleeves that flare out
from the elbow or hang in circular
fullness below tight upper section.
y " X X
IT'S great day for cotton in the
land of cotton. Printed calicos will
60 from north to south, but they will
not be a novelty in that land. Even
the negroes once bought all they
needed at cents a yard. We speak
of these colorful cottons as English
prints" because we are yet undecided
about alluring the public into buying
anything that has not a foreign label
or a foreign source.
Such cottons are made up into
street frocks, not into the ruffied
skirts and slim bodices of other days.
Some bear such extraordinary designs
that they appear like pieces of stage
costumery. OF such workmanship are
the Egyptian and Persian patterned
cottons. Genuine calicos came from
Calicut. fndfa, with a design that was
small and sharply outlined. The Eng
lish looms were the first to initiate
these Indian cottons and English i'm
migrants brought the machinery and
the pattern with them when they set
tied in Virginia. The simple patterns
are in danger of annihilation by the
complicated and pictorial ones.
II a woman owns a tablecloth
printed with oriental figures of men
and flowers she can turn it into a
gown IL she Is willing to forego it's
possession as a piece of interior deco
ration. 1t is the fabric of the mo-
ment, no matter where 1t is used.
Its possession is envied.
There are other printed cottons go
ing south which show fat red apples,
leaves. These are tho French inter
probation of calico. They are quite
successful. Turkey red calico with
it's white figures is not offered, but
red and white gingham takes It's
place. However. there Is no sharp
leaning toward bright red this season.
The oriental colorings. especially
those of Egypt and India, influence
us, which means that we do not
choose primitive colors. but those
which were the result of high art.
The Deauville Jacket, like the Deau-
Vile handkerchief. will be SO plenti-
full at Palm Beach this winter that
one who spent last August in the lit
tie French village and February in
the Florida place asks If the twain
have met. Our manufacturers have
copied about everything they saw at
Deauville last August to use this Feb
ruary. The jumper jacket and the
colored silk handkerchief, which were
dominant features there. are domi-
nant features in Florida
The jackets are of cotton crepe
patterned with black figures. Some
are of thin embossed wool edged with
knitted bands of another color. Doz-
ems are of white stitchery on black
crepe.
The coat suits that so south have
taken the form of a jumper for the
coats that tops a plain skirt. Such
suits are in beige. in sand-colored
homespun and tweed. the Jacket roll
ing away from the neck, the hips held
in by girdle which ties in two long
ends at one side. There is an at
tempt to persuade women to wear
thin white kid Jackets covered with
black stitchery above pisated white
crepe de chine and homespun skirts.
White helmet hats of silk ribbon
or thin French felt have few rivals
for morning wear, but the wide-brim-
med straw hat with plastered roses
Of vari-colored duvetyn rises to greet
the sun.
u r X
TT is optimistic to say that large
i artificial flowers will be returned
to fashion. They may como in with
hot summer suns, but at this hour
they are replaced by new form of
artinciality. Flowers are cut from
velvet or soft cloth and applied any,
where the milliner thinks the hat
needs color. 1t might be safer to
say that these flowers are formed
from a point In air. They are rot
copied from the actual blossoms
growing on stems which, we pick from
gardens. They are as curious as the
paper ones used for children's. play
hours in Vienna, later adopted by
MARITIME, and then used in America
for pin cushions There Is no pad
ding; the Aowsr 70 applied nat to the