San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-31
Dresses Are Built on Lines
of Fountain Pen Until
Knees Are Reached and
Then They Flare Out.
By ALLEN LAMONT.

Copyright. by the San Antonio Light
New York, Aug. S0.-Where has
waist line gone? Few can say, but
at any rate it has disappeared from
its usual haunts so far as the de-
signs of many of the new dresses are
concerned. Girdles and belts seem to
have taken a vacation likewise. The
new designs for fall start from the
neck> line with the general tubular
outline of a 81 fountain pen orna-
mented with alleged gold filigree and
it is not until the knees are reached
that the gown commences to give way
to what the Greenwich villager al
ludes to longingly as "self-expression. {"
At that point many of the gowns
gain full ripple effect by the in
sertion of pointed godets, by means
of circular cores or by flounces. In
the majority of examples this circu-
lar sweep is attained without the
loss of the long flat lines of the tubu-
lar silhouette in front and back. One
striking design just imported. how
ever, seemingly owes its inspiratio
to champagne glass turned upside
down as it should be in law abiding
America. The frock from shoulders to
knees follows the lines of the slender
stem, but from knee to hem, it flat
tens out like the wide shallow bowl
of the container of laughing bubbles.
Embroidery Replaces Belt.
In cases where the waist line is
impossible to determine. the place of
girdle or belt is often taken by band
of heavy embroidery.
in still other designs there is mere
ly spray of blossoms or an embroid-
cred medallion poised at the left hip
A delightful frock of this sort has
just been supplied by London de-
signer for a prominent American wo-
man. The gown is of flesh colored
georgette, made without waist line
but draped into long graceful lines by
being caught by bow of lace at the
left hip. Pale honey colored lace
forms the neckline and the tight
sleevs and continues to fall from the
under side of the sleeves to the hir
line in graceful wings. This trim.
ming is employed also in floating
draperies at either side of the skirt
Shops are swarming today with
school and college girls shopping pre-
paratory TO the beginning of the
academic year. Those parents who
still preserve influence with theil
offspring. however, are confirming these
purchases to the more staple articles
of attire. Until the latest fad has
its chance to appear at the autumn
football games, few parents know
what their daughters will wear or
want. They may see them attired in
Alaskan muclums, a tahitan grass
skirt and two-gallon cowboy hat SC
far as they know at present.
Three-piece Suits Popular.
There is every evidence, however
that the three-piece suit will hold
equal popularity among the younger
element as well as with those of moro
mature years. On these also the belt
is conspicuous by its absence. Many
of the most swagger are of Scotch or
Irish homespun, with coats double
breasted. fastened with four buttons
and ending just above the knee. Poi.
ret twill and charmeen vie with the
satins in popularity among the dresses.
The cloth top coats which will form
part of the contents of the wardrobe
trunks unloaded at the college towns
this fall seem to have borrowed their
designs and their colors from the tent
and awning trade. Stripes, bands and