San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-26
French Designers Make Skirts
Shorter and Danish Girdles

underskirt showing two TO four inche,
below the bottom hem. Frequently al
oyerdrcss of this creation is distinctly
separated from the underskirt by d
deep band of fur or by contrastin.
materials or colors.
These affairs seem vaguely Russian
The favorite scheme is black velvet
with soft lacquer and red crepe d,
chine or red velvet with black satir
while silver or gold thread embroidery
adds luxurious touch to many 0.
the overdresses.
Let me impress this fact: French
coutouriers have all agreed that thC
skirts shall be shorter than they were
last season. About four or five inche'
above the ankle bone appears to be the
favored length Of the new fall suits or
daytime frocks though evening gowns
may be slightly longer. If the feeling
of sprightly yOuthfulness is to be pre-.
served the new circular suFs demand
shorter skirts.
Paris Passes Tailored Suits.
For the Parisians themselves the
robe manteau or coat dress has al
most done away with tailored suit.
because 10 most women such gowns
are more becoming than the sever,
style and equally practicable for all
city purposes. But for use in tEe
United States where climate and lite
are both so different tailored suits are
still designed. The writer has see::
sporty new ones Of Irish homespun,
and Scotch mixtures. They are double
breasted with four buttons. Most OF
the new coats finish just above the
knees and are unbelted.
Three-piece suits continue the pop
ular vogue though strictly speakins
they are really two-piece affairs for
they are composed of dress of two
materials with n jacket or a three
quarters length coat which harmonizcs
with. though it does not always match.
the materials, of the dress. The winter
models show more long coats than
short ones in such ensembles. When
the skirt of the gown is circular the
coat continues straight and narrow t.
the bottom hem but il the gown show :
narrow hem the coat takes circular
flounces or godet.
That fur will be the outstanding
trimming during the winter season or
all types of garments was generally
predicted at all the openings. Three.
piece suits, dresses, cloaks and even
evening clothes are banded or other
wise trimmed with fur. To meet tine
demonds of this tremendous range for
furs an infinite number of new, I'M
recognizable. oddly clipped and dyei
pelts have appeared. The more luxur:.-
Gus costumes use real furs and the
fashionable materials are Persian
lamb, gray and brown squirrel, ermlrc
and natural Canadian lynx.
Not many fur coats have beeu
shown. silk or velvet cloaks complete
~ fur lined or heavily trimmed with
fur replace them. 4 stunning example
of the latter type, exhibited by sever
al firms, had a deep circular shouldc.
cape of fur cuffs to the elbow and a
ten-inch circular flounce of fur at tht
bottom hem. The bodies of the coat,
are usually of velvet. heavy silk o:
enc of the new and beautiful hant
loom. northumberland stuffs which
continue very fashionable.
Embroidery Designs Quieter.
Embroideries in silver or dull gold
OF two or three tones are still going
strong but the designs are closer Knit
and quicter than heretofore. The mo
tives are taken from Chinese. Persian
and Russian prints or garments but
modernized and interpreted into in
dividual effects by the designers.
On-sewed flowers of bright silk AM
gold leather cut-work form q move
trimming for evening dresses. Indeed
evening gowns have not in many year.
been so decorative or rich in thcli
materials as this season. The mos
fashionable modes are velvet embroi,,
cred with diamonds or pearls, lace
over silver or gold tissue. f.lmy colOreC
lace gowns outlined on all their edge
with silver ribbon, and lovely suppl.
| MORE silk gowns made either in
black and white combination or al
lacquer red.
Exotic new color schemes are notice
| able throughout all the collections. til,
most conspicuous being n combinatio;
/ OF scarlet, mauve or sort of petun'
shade. Molyneaux shows filmy. ligh
brown lace gown over a saffron yer
low slip completed by large velvet pop
pies Of yellow. brown and orane
poised on one hip and trailing dow,
the skirt, the effect being surprisingl.
lovely.
For the coming season the favore,
colors are light red, brown. bottle an
vertigo green and combinations o
white and bright colors with black
Black is seldom seen unrelieved b
some other color. For wearing aft
midday by the far the most fashion
able material Of all apparel is velvct
which becoming and rich fabric ha
not reached such popularity before i
years.
If you wish to be strictly ala mod
remember:
First, make your skirts shorter
second. wear velvet trimmed wit
fur; third. do away with girdles q
your slim, straight gown, and fourtl
have a two TO three-tone color schem
for your ensemble.