davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-07-01
How the Smart Folk Of New York Dress for the Coun

There are as many white and cream
blouses worn as In the era of the
wash muslin shirt waist. No matter
what the skirt, the blouse Is crepe
in its various manifestations, with or
without embroidery. If there must
be a circle OF ornamentation, it Is at
the waistline in front.
One of the most conspicuous sport
costumes worn at the races was made
up from a pleated white wool crepe
skirt. fatty tailored blouse and a
sleeveless sweater which extended
over the hips and was gently belted.
1t fastened at the side with large
buttons of erolored bone or the ma
terial. IL was cut into deep v at the
neck and was violently plaided Some-
times the plaid was in black against
a white ground or in green against
cream. but when 1t took on colored
foundation. such as gray or mauve or
Chinese green, the skirt matched
that color.
France is trying out the sleeveless
coat in the Hindu shape, which Is
long and formal in effect; also as a
short jacket worn over a blouse of
brightly printed crepe or cotton in
the Slavic manner. Some new sleeves
in printed fabrics are SO voluminous
that it would be awkward to attempt
a coat over them. 1t Is believed that
tn $ fashion will prevail in the autumn.
Maybe so. France is giving much at
tention to II. Our buyers may bring
It home. and then the public decides.
The sleeveless sweater is the fore
runner of this later fashion. 1t has
no opposition. At Palm Beach 1t was
successful So II Is at the New York
Evening star., 1923-07-01

Leymann, the ministerial counselor
of the department of labor. He tells
me there are something like forty
thousand unemployed in Berlin, and
that Germany has about two hundred
thousand men out of work. This is
nothing in comparison with the mil
lions or SO Of unemployed In Great
Britain and I venture there are but
few countries in Europe which have
so few out of job. Only about one
in ten out of work are now receiving
q dole. The trouble in keeping the
factories going is the lack of raw
materials. which have to be paid for
in gold. and the high cost of coal. DR..
Leymann says that labor of all class
es here is much underpaid and that
the conditions are daily growing more
serious
Take our government officials, for
instance" said DR.. Leymann. We
do not have enough to support Ms.
have. as you know. an important po-
Evening star., 1923-07-01

organdie. y touch Of mere frivolity.
especially as it had pleated frills at
neck and wrists, which every woman
knows gives trouble every moment
Of their existence.
Other biouses worn with alpaca
suits were Of printed crepe of silk
or embroidered cream crepe de chine.
Green blouses running the gamut of
new tones were the best in the solid
colors. The new mustard is difficult
to wear. So also is the tone known
as arsenic or verdigris, but that
does not keep them from being ever
present. They are too smart, too
unusual to be avoided by those who
delight In whatever departs from the
commonplace.
\ y \ n
T<HE green blouse Is definitely
1 established. 1t may be plain or
printed. That's a matter Of per-
sonal choice. It can be worn with
gun metal suits. especially IL they
are made of alpaca. Also 1t is worn
with separate skirts in white, cream,
biege. and black. There is a
curious fashion of wearing black
skirts in crepe de chine In the coun-
try as an offset to the ubiquitous
white ones. and there is another fash
ion for black blouses embroidered in
white figures. Colored ones are sub
stituted IL the design Is close set and
confined within narrow lines. What
Is now known as Pekin blue Is used
for this colored embroidery on
blouses of supple crepe de chine. The
blue is not repeated in the skirt.
however. which is white more often
fhap MT
Evening star., 1923-07-01

other ways the falling off Of our
labor supply is enormous. During
the war we had three millions killed
and two millions more were so badly
wounded that they win never regain
their old working capacity. We are
short of houses. There are a million
families without homes. We have
hundreds Of thousands who have come
back into Germany from Alsace-Lor-
raine and three-quarters Of a million
have been crowded out of Poland into
this country by the plebescite in Up
per Silesia."
"our small factories are passing
away" continued DR.. Leymann.
Germany Is a country Of home in
dustries as well as big factories, but
the small industries are slowly but
surely declining. They are feeding
upon their surplus, for they have not
the capital or the raw materials to
keep them going. They cannot buy
the coal they need and they use less
Evening star., 1923-07-01

sition and before the war was earn
ing ten times what I do now. My
salary was then about four thousand
dollars a year. 1t is. now less than
two hundred dollars, and owing to the
rise and fall of the mark. / cannot
tell at the beginning of the month
what 1t will be at the end. have to
figure on how much and what food I
can buy for my family. and as to new
clothes and shoes, these are out of
the question. Indeed. my life has be-
come a mere matter Of existence"
I then asked DIR. Leymann how the
men In the mines and factories could
live on their wages of twenty-five
cents a day. He replied:
.They do not live, they exist None
of them. is buying new clothes, and
the majority are so underfed that
their labor is not as efficient as it
was in the past We have cut down
our hours of work to eight and We
are producing much less per hour. In
Evening star., 1923-07-01

profiteers who are spending reck-
lessly. and the third is those who are
desperate and who, in a blind fury,
would destroy the government and
society that permits such conditions.
Germany cannot stand this long. So
far. she has been the chief bulwark
against bolsheyism, but If no change
occurs she is likely to turn to the
east and If she does, goodbye to
western civilization and the civilized
world"
1t is only through comparisons like
the above that one can get any idea
of how the mark affects prices Com
ing from Muelheim to Leverkusen the
other day, rode on the street car
distance of six miles at cost of
ive-eighths of a cent During the
trip 1 stood on the platform outside
and talked with the conductor He
told me he was getting 5000 marks
a. week, which at that time was worth
less than a dollar Before the war
his wages were s. a week, and that
was worth far more than five times
what he gets now. He told me that
he paid one-eighth Of his weeks
wages for milk for his baby, and
when T asked as to his clothes, he
replied:
Thank c. my uniform comes
from the street car company. Ny
chief trouble shoes. 1 ought to
have new r. but 1 have not the
money, and I have had my old
ones half-soled This cost me 1000
marks or just one-half my weeks
wages" He thereupon lifted his foot
and showed me the new leather which
had been roughly tackled on.
T HAVE just heard Of a speculation
in spikes which is good illus
tration of how the mark affects busi-
ness. The story is that of a hard
ware merchant who bought keg
containing 1000 spikes and retaiied
them out by the pound at what he
thought was a profit The following
week, when he came TO order a new.
stock, he found the mark had 50
fallen that it took twice as much to.
buy such a keg and that his receipts
would buy only 500. He sold these,
at a profit, but by the next week.
when he made a new order, the
money he had was enough, to buy,
only ESQ All this time the mark was
galloping downward and each sale.
resulted in similar loss. And SO he,
went on keeping track of his keg of
spikes until he found that the money.
left was enough to buy only one,
spike. AS he looked over his ao-;
counts he found that all of his goods
were going that way. He could not,
make it out. He had bought every
time at the market and had sold
! every time at a profit. and he had
gradually lost all he had. The result
| was that he took the last spike and
went up to mis- garret He drove tie
spike into a rafter and hanged him
self This shows how the gigantic
rat of the falling mark is continually
eating into the capital of the mer-'
chants Of Germany. Their receipts
will not replace their stocks. They
| borrow to buy, and no matter how
| high their prices, as long as they
sell they continue to lose.
fCopyright, 1923, by Carpenters wcrid
Trayels.)
Evening star., 1923-07-01

pected that freight and passenger
rates will be cut and that a live COM
petition against the English and our
! ships will be inaugurated. Last year
the port of Hamburg alone cleared
more than 1900 ships of over -13,-
10000 registered tonnage.
Notwithstanding this, the manag-
ers of the steamship lines apparently
take a gloomy view Of affairs. I had
an interview in Hamburg last week
with one Of the greatest Of them.
He said:
Before the war had one hundred
clerks in my office. have now four
hundred and they are the best 1 can
hire They are not equal to the one
hundred 1 had in 1914. They are
crazy, so to speak, at the fiuctuation
of values. They get 50 many marks
every pay day and rush out to spend
them, fearing they will be worth less
few days thereafter. This dete-
rioration goes on in the shipyards
and In the factories. The whole world
seems on the down grade. All hu-
manity is crazy. We sit here know
ing that in Russia they are eating
human flesh. I have had a talk with
physician who has just returned
from the volga. He says there are
business is to decide. when person
dies, whether his body is fit for hu-
man consumption as food"
y X X
HERE referred to the profits which
i the ship companies and othters
are paying. and the captain of indus
try said:
"The high dividends of Germany
| are looked upon as proof of prosper
| ity; they are not. The fall of the
mark has been such that the shares
In companies do not represent the In
| vestment. The man who had one
| hundred marks or s25 so placed In
1914 got five marks or s1.25 when his
company paid per cent dividend
For that he could buy 100 eggs. He
has the same capital in marks today
and If his dividend has increased to
| 25 per cent it amounts to only 20 pa
per marks or one-eighth of cent
which will not buy one-tenth OF ar
! egg. This shows what our big divi-
dends mean and what the paper in
comes and paper dividends amount tc
when reduced to the common demon.
inator of the cost of living.
''It is what one can get for his
money, and not it's face value. that
determines it's purchasing power
This applies to all sorts of invest
ments and all kinds Of purchases. A
| man, who at the end of the war had
a thousand marks or $3.50 in savings
bank, finds that he has less than I
cents. At the close of the war he
might have bought 100 pairs Of shoe,
with his savings. Today he canno1
:. buy one pair of shoe strings. If he
had turned that money into dollars
at the time he put 1t into the bank
and laid 1t away, 1t would now bt
worth 100000 marks instead Of Loo
marks In other words. the more
you save the more you lose, or. rath
er, the more you have saved the mort
you have lost
"These conditions have divided
| Germany into three classes of society
| One is the masses who have saved il
the past and who are quietly suffer.
ing and dying today: another is the
Evening star., 1923-07-01

streets, the vacation days, the hours
of travel.
saw few suits of thin alpaca
in Paris last summer worn by women
who were travelling by train or mo-
tor. but none over here. There were
smart Jackets anu skirts of this old
fashioned material at the American
races. One of these had a short coat
Evening star., 1923-07-01

g. statement over his name might
easily cause a big rise or fall in
the mark. spent an hour with him
In one Of the chief financial institu-
tions Of the republic, and he said he
was laying all the cards on the table.
He believes that the United States
might do great deal to help Ger
many IL It would join. with England,
Sweden, Switzerland and Holland in
a loan to stabilize the mark, and says
that such a loan could be safely Sc
cured by import duties on certain for
eign goods coming into the country.
He stated the Reichsbank would join
in such a loan, and with 1t Germany
could get on its feet, provided the
reparations demands were at a fixed
rate and not too oppressive.
This man is. much concerned as to
the passing away of the conservative
investors and the intellectual classes.
Said he:
There is one thing IT, most for
c."ners coming to Germany do not
-eciate. This is that our thrifty,
,nectual, saving middle-class is
being wiped out mean all those
fortunes. with investments in bonds
and gilt-edged securities, based on
the gold value Of the mark, but now
founded only on paper. This class In
| ciudes the salaried people. 1t in
cludes lawyers, doctors. professors,
musicians and artists, as we'll as most
Of the government servants These
| classes now have incomes 50 small
that they are not earning enough to
keep them alive, and they are slowly
but surely dying out This means
that the real brains, culture and sci
entifc ability of Germany Is passing
away and, what is still worse, that
nothing Is coming in to take their
places. The conservative class has
no means Of sending its children to
| achool. and there will be no support
FOR German culture for a generation
TO come. l regard this as the heaviest
loss Of the war"
rs 1t true that Germany has de-
preciated the mark to enable her to
undersell the rest Of the world?" I
asked.
/ NO. That Idea, if carried out.
would be suicide and absolute mad
ness. We have been ruined by the
rail Of the mark. and our property
and stocks are being taken over by
foreigners We have not one-fourth
the exports we had before the war.
and between vladivostok and Berlin
we have lost buying population of
three hundred millions. This is SO
with other countries. Bolsheyism ana
the poverty OF Europe have made the
world market much smaller. Before
the war We had a foreign trade of
twenty billion gold marks and of this
ten billions were exports. The other
billions, which formed the balance
OF trade against US. we could nav
because of our large shipping feet.
our colonies from which we received
raw materials and our foreign In
vestments which paid dividends. Now
we have lost much Of our shipping,
we have lost all Of our colonies, and
also our foreign investments. We used
to make profit on what the foreign
ers bought in the country. Now such
things are paid for In marks and we
lose all around. Indeed, the outlook
is dark"
+ rs
lN6Y next talk relates to the WORK.
ilYl ingman. It j. with Or. Herman
Evening star., 1923-07-01

cut in two parts. reminiscent of the
overpopuiar separate Jacket with the
tight hip band. in that the part over
the hips was snug, the upper part
sagged at sides and back. Instead of
button at the waistline there was
broad ribbon tie. which is a nov
city. The color was gun metal, which
defies dust. The blouse was white
Evening star., 1923-07-01
BY FRANK G. CARPENTER.

Berlin.
TN this letter shall let the Ger
mans speak for themselves. Dur
ing the last few months. L have
i had confidential chats with the
leading officials and flnanciers who
are running the republic. Most Of the
conversations have been heart-to-
heart talks, and for this reason I
am not able to give the names of the
takers. One of the men. for instance,
terests, another is the manager Of the
Union of German Industries, and
others are closely connected with the
reichstag and the government
begin with President Ebert. whom
I met in his palace facing Wilhelm
strasse, the Downing street of Ber-
lin. The president of the German
republic never gives interviews and
my audience was arranged with the
understanding that nothing Mr.. Ebert
said could be quoted. He talked
freely, and at the close of the conver-
sation l begged him to make an ex-
ception to his custom and. through
me, send few words to the American
people giving his views as to what
we might do to better the situation In
Europe. and especially in Germany.
The answer as revised by his excel
lency was as follows:
I'm view of the close economical
inter-dependency of the whole civil
lied world It is evident that the des-
tinies Of America are intimately
connected with those of Europe. I
feel that America Is vitality concerned ed
in European affairs. and that she can.
IL she will, do much to better present
conditions. She can do much for
Germany by taking an active part In
solving the pressing problems of the
world. and by giving her counsel and
assistance, as far as she feels 1t to
her own interest and that of the
= world"
These words Of President Ebert are
moderate expression of the feeling
exhibited in our conversation. His
excellency is a forcible talker and
during the interview, was impresse ed
with his live. active mentality and
his great strength of character. He
reminds one OF Theodore Roosevelt
whom he greatly. resembles. He
throws out. his jaw ras his converse.
ton. grows earnest. and now and ther
has a smile that recalls that o,
Roosevelt when he uttered DE.
lighted" Mr.. Ebert has the same
stout figure and medium height o,
our former President. His face d
shaped like that of Roosevelt, will
broad but not overhigh forehead
His head Is large and it Is firmly Sc
on short neck and broad sturd.
shoulders.
He is noted for his common, sense
and he looks at things from much th'
same angie as the hero Of the bis
stick when he was In the Whit,
House. Mr.. Ebert Is, as you know, Z
man of the people. He has worket
with his hands. and he began his life a,
a saddier and harnessmaker befor,
he went into politics and becam,
president Of these sixty-odd million.
Of people.
Upon leaving, I referred to his re-
semblance to Theodore Roosevelt, ant
asked him for a photograph. There
Nupon he went TO his desk and wrot,
GS signature at the foot Of the pic,
turo.
Ny next talk h with man who's,
sosition in Gerwany is such thai
Evening star., 1923-07-01

fashionable by the cargoes of our
sailing ships. The ladies of this day
do not keep their. silk frock, how
ever. for gala days, church included.
Every day is for silk. This summer
the fabric has reached into all the
crevices of clothes
1t is built into loose coats with a
broadly printed design, especially
Evening star., 1923-07-01

races and along the countryside wher-
ever sports are in progress.
X X X
THE fashion for silk is we'll es-
l. tabIished here by our imitation of
the orientals. 1t has the world in its
sling this season. as it did in colonial
days, when Chinese and East Indian
fabrics and furniture were made
Evening star., 1923-07-01

Intellectual
die Ou"Ths and
Scientific Ability Nothing Take
Places" Faml Iomes
Evening star., 1923-07-01

THTHEN we go to England for sport
w clothes, however, we have better
results, and as France takes her In
spiration for these costumes from
London. the hordes of American
tourists have begun to wait until
they reach England to get the bulk
Of things that we wear during more
than half the year In this country.
London. my dear" is the answer to
an admiring question from an observer
as often as Paris. my dear" Which
is a change. you must admit
New York is conglomeration OF
English and French styles. We are
the distributors of the inspiration OF
, the world in clothes: we are the
great adapters. In that lies our
genius.
What women wear at the New
York races is the final result OF
what all the buyers have seen at
all the places. Most of the fashions
follow on the Palm Beach path, but
there is more stability In the clothes
not so much white and cream, nor
one-piece frocks, nor. fiat-heeled
sport shoes. There Is something for
those Of us who do not live our hot
weather months in the splendor of
country houses to put our teeth IN;
something that serves US for the city
Evening star., 1923-07-01
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

~ AGING may not be what once
- 1t was in this country and
vaster number of Amer
leans witness the summer
races in France and England than
here. but when New York turns
out in, the full and costly panoply
of sport clothes for its Long Island
events. there Is much to see, much
to copy. much to inspire us In the
choice OF the things we need for hot
weather.
Trv as the officials will, there Is
not the excitement in our races that
hangs over the British affairs or
the fields Of Longchamps and Auteuil.
But there are good clothes and they
point the, path, for the rest of the
country during. the season. Paris
points the path for the future. which
is far more important for the pro-
fessional buyers than for what the
trade papers call "the consumer"
What we want to know is the
method Of dressing for the present
The New York races settle that prob
lem. The women who are there may
nave DOuSnI Inelr ClOtneS IN farlS
in May. but there was no necessity
for It. They can be bought here six
weeks after they appear in France,
IL one knows where to look. 1t Is
not our buyers who are slow to pro-
mote a new French Fashion; 1t Is
the public.
Every woman likes to feel that
her clothes were inspired by Paris.
It's that two-century- old truth which
inspires the tremendous buying in
Paris that once was limited to the
few, but nearly all women prefer the
American manipulation Of the French
ideas This feeling has grown pro-
digiously in the last three years,
because we realize that our physical
personality is so markedly different
from that Of French women that their
cutters and filters rarely satisfy US.
The idea Is good. The result Is q
failure.
Evening star., 1923-07-01

MY next talk relates TO the work.
lYl ingman. It - with Or. Herman
The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1923-11-01

ers and tax payers who believed that
he was needed in the office. This is a
matter Of common knowledge. Per-
sonally, if I were a Democrat | would
rather vote for a Republican who
would not try to conceal his political
faith than l would for a Democrat
who goes around trying to make the
voters believe that he is an indepen-
dent candidate.
believe in candidates being honest
with those whose support they seek
and l have no patience with the man
who will endeavor to represent himself
to me as something which l know he
is not.
Mr.. Jones has been square with the
people of the county about this, but
l wonder if Mr. Otrutt can say as
much.
Apart from politics Mr.. Jones has
demonstrated his worth to the coun-
ty and the tax payers. He has abil-
ity, courage, energy and fidelity to
any task which he may undertake; he
has had experience both as States
Attorney and in the defense of cases
and those who have been about the
court room during the last several
terms Of Court and have noticed that
he has been counsel on one side or the
other of almost every case tried-dur-
ing some terms in every case-have
been impressed by his strength as a
trial lawyer
If we are to select States At
torney because Of his character and
fitness, then we can make no mistake
whatever in voting for Mr.. Jones.
do not wish to take up more space
but l hope that every man and woman
in Garrett county who is interested
in the proper execution Of the office
of States Attorney will turn out on
next Tuesday and vote for Mr.. Jones.
Respectfully yours,
LIFE LONG REPUBLICAN.
Political advertisement published by
authority of VIM. II. Smouse, Chair
man State Central Committee.