davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

with a matching bow. This model Is
most unusually effective by reason OF
the distinct pattern of the printed
material and the clear cut lines Of the
frock itself.
Following the three piece vogue,
the fifth model adds a sleeveless
jacket of fiat crepe. In the same color
as the fabric stripe, to a straightline
frock that is simply trimmed with
bands at skirt and sleeve edge-the
material matching the coat fabric.
The coat itself Is straight of line.
and has a unique. rolled edge of the
striped fabric, the stripes running in
an opposite direction from the dress
pattern. A roll collar and patch
pockets-the latter banded with the
contrasting fabric complete this
swagger little costume suit with IN
doubted sport proclivities.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

TVER Since the beginning OF the
~ World War, when fashions swung
~ to the military and brought the
cape into favor. we have accepted this
graceful, comfortable garment as a
probability Of every new season. And
Fashion, this spring. seems much i'm
pressed with its possibilities. and the
fact is evidenced by the many uses 1t
makes of its charming ways, apart
from the many variations of the Yong
cape that we have learned to expect.
The short cape appears as a part OF
the one-piece dress, cut into the back;
it stimulates sleeves on either coat or
frock; or Is detachable. becoming a
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

The kerchief or bandanna mode Is
responsible for second straightline
frock, untrimmed. except for the
squares OF plain silk in the same
shade as the line in the material. The
kerchief is most curious fashion,
and it is holding it's charming own
unusually long for a novelty vogue.
It's influence is seen in kerchief pat
termed fabrics, in plain kerchiefs. as
above, and in the bright prints-silk,
crepe and cotton-and Batik printed
chiffon squares. 1t Is never lovelier
than when applied to the varied uses
youth finds for it. for its color and
character stamp it youthful mode.
Inspired, perhaps. by the kerchief
the third straightline frock, with
inverted pleats to make it wider bit
at the hem, and break the monotony,
since there is no belt, draws knotted
sash through handmade button holes
and so achieves a slight irregularity
of hemline. The short sleeve tops an
undersleeve of silk, knotted, kerchief
fashion. These three frocks all show
pipings of plain color at neck and
sleeve edge-hardly more than g. line.
but decided note of color.
Sophistication II A Clever Model.
No selection of youthful gowns
would be complete, did 1t not include
a model of printed fabric or one COM
bined with a print. In the pictured
frock printed crepe forms the flowing
side panels; binds the hemedge: cuffs
the sleeves; and fashions the one sided
collar that is one of the newest neck
wear shapes. The string belt is a
picot edged taffeta ribbon, and the
| collar is caught on the left shoulder
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

past. so we are reviving old-time fash
ions in jewelry. Brooches that are
exact copies of styles our great grand
mothers wore are being displayed as
new! And ponderous pendants OF
bright gold, curiously wrought; short
necklaces that fit closely about the
throat; and odd bracelets, many Of
them set in the old-fashioned garnet.
are being worn. Canoes are appear
ing again, the beautifully carved coral
canoes, delicate in design, set in
mount of filagree. Part Of this spirit
of revival is the vogue for Paisley. not
only as a fabric for garments. but as
a material for handbags These bags
are made UP in pouch styles-have
been for some time, now-but the
newest note is the envelope bag OF
Paisley. either untrimmed or the pat
tern outlined in steel beads. Hair
ornaments-bandeau and the high
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16
Fashions for Juniors Show Certain De
mure Charm - They Are Versatile,
But Keep To Simple Lines and a
Clever, Jaunty Smartness.

trimming-self pleats, ruffles, bands
or shirrings; or spaced rows of velvet
ribbon on a slightly bouffant skirt.
There has been a steady increase in
the use of pleatings-and one sees fiat
pleats, fan pleats, box pleats, flying
pleats, applied variously. The skirt Of
the frock may be pleated or may have
a pleated panel; it may have pleated
f1ounces, pleated sleeves, pleated col
lar and mousquetaire cuffs, pleated to
match. And pleats may appear on
sports frock; a dance frock; a school
frock or a frock for afternoon. Espe-
cially adaptable to the sports type OF
apparel. they make for freedom of
movement and undoubted picturesque
ness.
The Wrap-Around Fashion Is
Prominent.
In both frocks and costume suits
the popularity OF the wrap-around
mode Is notable. 1t may be applied
TO the dress OF printed or embroidered
silk, embroidered cotton, or wool; and
is equally good for the costume suit
Of camels hair, twill or any adaptable
suit material. The former may be
designed for practical wear, or for
afternoon or evening; the latter will
be embroidered, in Russian fashion,
| perhaps, soutache braided or stitched
in plaids, stripes or some conven-
tional design.
The costume suit-they've taken to
calling It the "sult-costune." Of late
is q harmonious combination of
Jacket and blouse-topped frock, the
| former short, as a rule. Youth wears
| her Jacket even shorter than the
/ older woman, and It's keynote is dec
orativeness. This jacket may be
| bloused into g hip-band; wrap-around
and tied with bow Of ribbon; boxed
or bolero; but 1t is jaunty, debonair
and artistic. No type Of Jacket is
quite as youthful as the bolero indeed,
| few wear the bolero well that are not
petite. Il can increase ones apparent
size amazingly. Whatever its cut, the
Jacket will be trimmed-embroid
with soutache or stitching; cut out,
that a vividly colored lining may
show through; or appliqued with rib
bons In fat scrolls or cameo motifs.
The costume blouse is no longer an
accessory, but an accepted fashion. It
is, first Of all, decorative, either in
the material itself or the applied trim
ming. 1t Is quite likely to be gay
but its gayety Is in complete harmony
with the suit material, and repeats
the color note, Occasionally one sees
a plain blouse, banded, perhaps, with
the suit material, but this Is the case
when the fabric of coat and skirt is
decorative in itself.
A Single Fabric And Many Fashions
No better proof of the versatilits
of the youthful mode could be showr
than the pictured models, all five Of
which choose a novelty stripe fabric
for their foundation. Four models
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

M ~ OO1Et De SSTV0Ot SWuSI4SA
VT be in the ways OF the world
y or the ways of fashion, and the
l&w modes of the hour seem cogniz-
ant Of this truth. There are signs of
a reaction from the "happer" type of
raiment that astonished us all for a
season or two, and styles have, ap-
parently. come back to quiet ways and
an aIluring simplicity that Is charm
ingly consistent with the girlish face
and figure. We speak of mature
modes as youthful, and they are, in
their general effect. but youth makes
somber colors and complicated lines
take the semblance of youth. as we'll
Certain characteristics of the present
day fashions are specially adaptable
to the suits and frocks of Miss Four
teen-to- Twenty, and are worn by her
with certain "alr'' that even the
small woman may not acquire.
The season is sponsoring straight
lines and simplicity; gay colors and
figured tabricss long skirts. varied
waistlines and clever sleeves. From
these general rules the fashions OF
young womanhood are evolved. and
the resultant modes are repIete with
interest and charm.
StraIghtline Erocks VS.. The Costume
Suits
Whether It be for youth or maturity,
there are two prevailing uodes-the
one a favorite these many seasons.
the other a comparatively late conner
to the world of fashion We are all
familiar with the comfort and the
air Of finish that the one piece dress
possesses; It's rival Is the three piece
suit that Is coming TO be known as
the costume suit. II Is really little
more than a frock with an accom-
panying coat or Jacket, but It may
be skirt and Jacket with a match.
ting or contrasting blouse. The lat
ter has the advantage OF variety. at
tained by the possession of more thar
a single blouse, to be worn with the
coat and skirt. Both these modes are
favored OF youth, and are developed
along lines that are naive. yet simple
The favorite fabrics employed b.
the one piece frock are silks, crepes
and the new knitted fabrics. Printed
silks and crepes; embrodertes; wover
plsids, stripes and checks are seen
and there are frocks Of plain mate
rails plainly conceived and carried out
Right at present tho printed silk froci
ss the accepted fashion, but one Il
never sure Of the duration OF 90 no
tfoeable a fashion. Patterns are ali
over, Indian, Chinese, Egyptian o.
Batik in their figures. and the model
are simple, straightline affairs, some
times trimmed with plain fabric, bu
more often wholly without trimming
Such a frock may be navy blue, pat
termed In white, or sornber back
ground with design In richly vtvi'
colortngs. When a frock has chosel
plain silk for its material, It turns Z
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16
ALL SHAPES AND SIZES

lures tho tier arrangement. an en-
broidered monogram and hemstitched
edges its trimming. A few high Ascot
stocks are shown, and they, too, show
an embroidered monogram. One sided
effects arc seen, developed in drawn
work, embroidery. tucking and the
like, and there are all-the-way-roun
berthas after the manner OF the win
ter. No particular shape is empha-
sized, and whatever style proves most
becoming. that is fashion.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16
THE TEMPER RAMENTAL CAPE

variation of the costume suit by re-
placing the short coatee.
The choice of short cape is mat.
ter for careful consideration, since,
like the bertha, 1t may add width
where width should not be added:
but the long cape makes the slim lady
simmer and gives height to the lady
who is plump. The one-piece dress
developed in navy serge. twill or tri-
cotine - with accompanying cape.
either short, three-quarters or long,
as best becomes the wearer-is an ac-
cepted fashion of early spring, and
its undoubted usefulness will make 1t
a decided factor in summer modes.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

Spanish comb-are showing no dl-
minution in popularity. the latter
most frequently of shell incrusted
with steel. Jet or crystal beads, occa-
sionally with irridescent beads. Ban
deaux are gorgeous, when they are
not simple. They are always the
latter when worn by the Junior-pre-
ferably of flowers or braided ribbon.
But for formal wear they are Jeweled;
made Of metal leaves; or show an
arrangement of feathers.
Shoes and hosiery grow more deco
rative daily; umbrellas incline to the
odd. the unique, the bizarre; hand
kerchiefs show gay prints. delicate
embroideries and monograms. oh,
yesl the monogram! It is everywhere
-on linens, blouses. frocks, parasols.
neckwear-thus does fashion Identity
hersaif
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

@ He designer Of women's gar
A ments-coats, suits and dresses
III may safely count on certain sea
WAp sons'' for her offerings, knowing
full well that the between-season Pc
RODS will be given over to replenishing
household needs and making sure that
ones undertakings are in good condi-
tion. But the designer Or accessories
the little costume "fxings" that are
always in demand to lengthen the life,
or give a wholly new air to the weary
frock or sutt-may have no rest from
her labUrs. And she must work with
two seasons always in her mind-the
present and the possible future. 1t
is safe to say that shoes, hats, gloves
and hosiery are all-the-year-round de-
rnands, their fashions changing 80 fire.
uuently that one can always find q new
mode or a new style theme. And
neckwear, hand bags, costume jewelry
remain in fashion hardly long enough
to make their purchase worthwhile, If
one prides herself on keeping strictly
up-to-date.
Whether it be junior. debutante or
matron, the accessory problem Is a
vital one, for It is the careful or the
careless choice of little things that
makes or breaks the costume. The
wrong hat, the wrong gloves, an ILL
advised piece OF Jewelry. and the effect
of correct well-grooming has been
sacrificed to what may be, in itself,
a most attractive thing, yet wholly
out of place with the costume it ac-
companies. It has been said that
simple things belong to youth; II
might as well be said that they be-
long to age. For youth is far more
capable of wearing the fussy things
than the person whose youth lies in
the past A safA rule. and sane
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

portray four distinct frock fashions,
and the fifth is a costume suit, inclin-
ing rather toward the sports type be-
cause Of its cut and the type of mate
rial that makes it. Each separate
frock is a popular mode. The first
straightline, with kimono shoulder and
just a suggestion of sleeves-shows
a clever use Of ribbon, which Is a
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

factor to be reckoned with in all de-
partments of fashion. Here 1t sup
plies the tie that defines the waistline,
and makes a single bow-with stream
er ends-to perch smartly on the left
shoulder. One suspects that the hand
kerchief, peeping from the pocket. is
bandanna, it's edge the same color as
the ribbons that trim the dress.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16
WHEN WASHING RIBBONS

Use lukewarm water, never hot.
Pure soap should be used, and when
the ribbon has been sponged with a
tepid suds and rinsed in clear water,
It may be fiattened out on a smooth,
hard surface to dry. A sheet OF glass.
a marble slab. window or a mirror
may be used. and the ribbon itself
exnoothed carefully so that it will not
wrinkle. No ironing is required.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

W@ OUTH must be served" whether
~ It be in the ways OF the world
y or the ways of fashion, and the
&W modes of the hour seem cogntz-
Perth Amboy evening news., 1923-03-16

a@ He designer Of women's gar
ments-coats, suits and dresses
n may safely count on certain sea
e6p sons' for her offerings, knowing
Evening star., 1923-05-28
S0fOlSTS GIVE FINAL
II ARTS CLUB PROGRAM
Mrs. Helen c. Heinl and Mrs. Lucy
D. Marx Get Enthusiastic
II Reception.

4 Mrs. Helen Corbin Heinl. pianist,
Ind Mrs. Lucy Dickinson Marx, So
prano. were the soloists at the con-
cluding spring musical at the Arts
Club last evening, under the auspices
of the music committee, Mrs. r. C.
Dean, chairman. The club parlors
were well filled and the program was
received with enthusiasm. Mrs. Heinl
offered as her selections GhepiRs
rScherzo in C Sharp Minor" Liszts
"Sposalizio," the "Fruhlingsnacht" of
Schumann-Liszt, "Poissons dor" and
"Jardin Sous la Pluie." by Debussy";;
Lotus Land" by Cyril Scott, and
McDowelRs From Uncle Remus'' and
Hungarian"
Mrs. Marx rendered in two groups,
Sibello's La Girometta.T sehumann's
iDie Lotos Blume,' Robin. Robin,
Sing Ne a Song" and will o, the
Misp,,"' by Spross. and Song of the
concluding number at the request of
the audience. She also sang, in ad-
dition to the stated program, a COM
position of her own, Radiance"
which she has dedicated to her in
structor. Miss Mary E. Crider. Miss
M1nna Niemann was accompanist
Mrs. Heinl announced that in jan
uary, In connection with the NC
fDoweli week" that is now planned.
she Will give a recital of Mcdowell
music at the Arts Club and at that
time will tell of the work that is be-
ing done at the Peterborough colony.
Evening star., 1923-05-28

structors at educational institu-
tions are: Capt. J. De W. Mat
thews. faeld artillery, to the Uni
yersity of Chicago; Maj. e. L.
Hooper. Sd Infantry. to the State
University of Iowa: Maj. J. w. Pey-
ton. to the Santa Barbara High
Schools. and Capt. w. H. Maris. field
artillery. to the Colorado Agricul-
tural College.
Capt. James C. Patterson, field
artillery. at Fort Sill. Okla, has been
ordered to Monmouth, ILL.,, for duty
with the Illinois National Guard.
Navy.
Vice Admiral A. T. Long has been
detached from command of United
States naval forces in Europe and or
dered to this city for duty as chief of
the bureau of navigation, Navy De-
partment.-
Capt. NJ e. Reed, at the navy yard,
Mare Island, Calf. has been detailed
as q member OF the naval examining
and retiring boards, Navy Depart
ment.
Lieut. Commander e. ]. Gillian, at
the Naval Academy, has been de-
tailed to the cruiser Milwaukee and
Lieut.. e. B. Cotton. at the academy,
to the University of Iowa City.
Lieut. Commander William r.
Evening star., 1923-05-28
Changes in Stations of
Army and Nauy Officers
OF Interest to Capital


Col. A. E. williams, Quartermaster
Corps. at the Army War College.
Washington barracks, has been de-
tailed to duty with the organizer
reserves Of the 4th Corps Area, with
station at Columbia, s. C.
Col. Charles 8. Bryan, Ordnance Of
fcers' Reserve Corps, has been as
signed to duty at the Army War Col
lege. -,
Capt. M. G. Keeler. Medical Corps. at
Fort Sheridan. Ill.,, has been ordered
to this city for treatment at Walter
Reed General Hospital. -
Maj. c. H. Tingle, Quartermaster
Corps. at San Francisco, has been
ordered to New York city for duty
with, the Army transport service.
Capt. A. G. DeQuevedo. Medical
Corps. on the Panama Canal Zone. has
been ordered to the Army Medical
School, this city. for duty.
The President has accepted the
designations Of Maj. Howard H.
johnson, Medical Corps. and First
Lieut.. Francis w. Ruggles, air
service.
Officers detailed as military In
Evening star., 1923-05-28
Dakota Indians
ToGet Along on
TWo Dogs Each

Indians at the Fort Berthold
. agency in North Dakota have de-
/, cided to get along on two dogs
each. thus solving a, problem which
has worried the Indian bureau for
years. -"
The Indians themselves, at a re-
cent council, solved the question
by voting the abolition of surplus
CANNES, as we'll as placing q 81
tax on each dog within the limits
agreed on. Indians are fond OF
dogs, the Indian bureau said, In
many. cases possessing half a
dozen and holding onto them with
a tenacfty which no amount Of
moral persuasion can shake. The
Indian agency officials have been
conducting a campaign for some
time to induce their charges to cut
down on the number OF pets they
care for.
Evening star., 1923-05-28
WILL GET DIPLOMAS.
Night School Students to Graduate
Friday.

The first graduating class of the
public night high schools to receive
nlpiomas VIII be awarded them at
In the Business High School audi
torium. Certificates for proficiency
In certain studies have been awarded
heretofore, but this is the first year
that a full-fiedged diploma will be
awarded
Superintendent of Schools Frank w,
Ballou and Mrs. Howard L. Hodgkins.
member of the board of education
will speak. Walter B. Patterson. di..
irector Of special schools. will preside.
"Iech High School Orchestra, under
Dore Walten, will furnish the music.
Evening star., 1923-05-28
FLOWERS FOR BURROUGHS
Wild Blooms Placed by Friends on
Noted Naturaiist's Grave.

ROXBURY. N Y, May 2s.-wild
flowers were laid on the grave Of
John Burroughs, poet and naturalist,
beside Boyhood Rock, by four hun
dred friends and admirers that came
from as far as Ohio to attend the an
nual reunion of the John Burroughs
Memorial Association.
The party. which included Julian
Burroughs. a SON of the poet, later
visited the old farmhouse where he
was born.
Evening star., 1923-05-28

Smith. jr., Of the fourth naval dis
trict has been assigned to the battle.
ship Arkansas.
Lieut.. r. H. Blair, at Harvard UNI
versity, Cambridge. Mass, has been
assigned to tthe ONCE OF naval opera
tions, Navy Department. and Lieut.
Evening star., 1923-05-28
CANAL HAS RECORD DAY.

PANAMA. May 2S.-The Panama
Ganal tolls Saturday were $I36.00O.
This was the first time that thew had
exceeded 100000 for a single day.
Twenty-Five ships passed through the
canal, including the Cunard liner
4 {tound-the-world trip.
Evening star., 1923-05-28

Niels Drustrup, at the naval proving
grounds, Dahlgren, Va, to the receive
Ing ship at New York.
Chief Gunner Charles II. Foster, at
the Washington navy ynrd, haS been
detailed to the new battleship West
Virginia.
Evening star., 1923-05-28
STATE OFFICIAL DIES.
Assistant Attorney General ~of
Oklahoma Succumbs.

OKLAHOMA CITY. Okla. May 1s.--
attorney general OF Oklahoma and
former. associate Justice OF the su-
preme court of tho territory Of Ha-
waii, died suddenly at a local hotel
yesterday. Physicians said heart
trouble caused his death.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-05-06
DAILY BUSINESS EDITORIAL
Every Week in Birmingham a Big One
By RICHARD F. JOHNSTON

livery Birmingham Specifically that sounds
Birmingham Yet
with the the properties of the Shelf
sleeve with which do the buying In securing this
adjunct already large merchant the So increased
the Tennessee river allows owcost transportation of products St
Louis and Chicago markets
The Slo has entacles reaching Birmingham to Sheffield 1t
producing facilities
holdings 1t tied large Birmingham industry whatsoever dvan
of the Harvesting of the the shoals
the building
of Southern
Birmingham freight the
freight producer that she is destined to
The erection of building thing Birmingham
the Southen building lies the which determined build
is far larger than tenoy buildings than
such buildings.
During the week the Traders National bought 1t
bought money
growth based Birmingham rolls home
demands OF
Less and less Birmingham Birmingham
because is Birmingham people who earning the here
of
allowing capital
bies producing youngest
100000 capital stock financing acquisition
meet the demand with larger capital.
The Security
first quarter in the first of this Other building and
associations make similar The
agencies and they using them before
Making production of
it that this industry
time last That item developed
with the bank
ing and investment of capital reported last week.
week of symmetry Progress did quarter
others SMALL
of effort and development
another week will have the starting Fairfield
That very big 1t pivotal 1t the Tennessee companys
the south. '
Yes each big.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1923-05-06
Butter Market Shows
Firm Trend For Week

CHICAGO. May although real con-
fidence was lacking. this weeks butter
market temporarily assumed firm tone
in compa rlson with the market of the
previous week. During the week buyers
operated more freely in order to replen-
ish depleted stocks held at a minimum for
weeks
Sentiment was for lower prices, but
while advances were hard to effect and
maintain because of lack of confluence.
it was also quite difficult to bring about
declines. Stocks kept closely
movement of shipments to the markets or
slight increase in demand brought about
an actual shortage of butter.
Instead of the sharp increases in make
expected. it appeared that the season is
somewhat retarded, and that production of
butter is making only small gains from
week to week. Prices have been lowered
, to a point where consumptive demand was
encouraged. retail prices were lower and
large distributors reported wider outlets.
The entire market situation indicated
the realization that the spring decline II
not yet completed. and that realization
nodded sentiment for lower prices and
kept the market nervous.
The Chicago market showed more
strength than eastern centers. All mar
kets advanced together, but the eastern
marekts We're first to feel the weakness of
the close of the week. A rlativs increase
or under grades was reported by all mar
kets, with the exception of Chicago.
The closing on 90 score stock at Chicago
was Al u % gain of / Y points. Figures
on the closing at other markets did not
arrive.