San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-04-08
Paris Notes

The collection of clothes shown
at the Worth opening was charac-|
terized by great simplicity, an uni
usual thing for this house, which
caters largely to English court cir
cles. This house uses fewer printsI
than any other house, therefore by|
way of contrast the line seems col
orless.
All of Worth's tailored suits
show short jackets. A new feature|
was the use of interesting scarf
collars of matching materials. One|
wonders, however, if these are not
too muffling for the spring and
summer seasons. They appear hot
and are not particularly becomingl
especially when made in a neutral
tone of wool cloth. Worth has
adopted this type of collar both for|
sports wear and town wear suits
and also shows it on separate short
coats for sports wear.
Interesting and very American
notes in the line were the beaded
and embroidered short jacketsl
These were shown with many
dresses and suits. Most of these
were without fastenings and when|
worn were held around the figure.|
They reached to a generous I'D
length and appeared to swathe the|
figure even when of this loose|
open cut. Others were belted ind
the style known as Resserrea Id
taille.
~,aN Beads and Metal.
Worth shows many beaded skirts
in the style known as gauffre, Cd
wavy plaitings. He uses quantities.
of lace and by no means neglects|
beads, as a very large proportion
of dinner and evening dresses
headed sometimes on net and
sometimes on Georgette, were'
shown. He uses a great deal of
beautiful metal on his ceremonious
evening dresses. Many of the eve
ming dresses and dressy afternoon
frocks showed the Oriental hunch
or lift at the front, the draperies
being caught in this peculiar fash
ion directly in front. This gave 20
the wearer the high stomach effect
and drew the dresses in very close
across the back. Many of them
seemed so tight that one wonders
how the wearer could sit with COM
fort.
Madeleine & Madeleine showed
an unusually small collection, but
it was rather choice in that it rep1
resented a distinct note. This
house is strong for The Moyen Age
line. 1t had numerous models
which had no waistline at all UNI
less you could call the point where
the skirt departed from a perfect
ly straight line to form a side flare
or a blouse-anywhere between
the hips and the knees-a waist
line, because it was only at this
very low point that the straight
line of the skirt drapery was broG1
en-. This type of dress len& itself
admirably to the slender. silhou-
cite, but it would be extremely.
trying to any other type.
A Gorgeous Collection.
This house has perhaps the most
gorgeous collection of evening
dresses that has been shown in
Paris thus far. They are all in
metallic and jeweled effects.
Every one of them has its accom-
panying wrap of chiffon in some
exquisite color, which blends with
a metal brocade or jeweled EN-
broidery. Thus these dresses, which
might be too theatrical, in fact al
most garish, in effect, are softly
yelled with full length mantles of
radiant colors.
It also shows some exquisite
dresses of the lingerie type, made
of the finest cotton voiles and
sheer non-crushing batiste and or
candle. These are wrought with
the finest hand embroideries, for
which this house is famous. They
are nearly ell of the wide skirted
type set to straight, loose bodice,
There are no sashes and no girdled
to these dresses. The mannequind
wearing them looked like old-fash1
toned French dolls. Touches of
color were sometimes introduced
through the use of flat rosettes of
ribbons or by means of artificial
flowers. One mannequin wearing
a cream muslin dress, trimmed
with old lace and embroidery. car
ried q tiny muff made of vivid rosS
ribbon, innumerable rows Of the
ribbon. being shirred into little
frills which, covered a melcHApQs51
ed muff not over nine inches long
The dress had rosettes of the same
ribbon.