davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02
Luxurious Fabrics.

The keynote of the new blouscs
is opulence either of materials or
decoration. There are blouses of
duvetyn, cut velvet and crepes of
the heaviest quality. The general
lines are the same usually adapt
ed to the straight silhouette, but
a new note of Oriental luxury is
found in such barbaric colors as
Chinese yellow, used not only in
embroidery designs but OCCASION
ally as a solid color. And there
are brilliant and daring comoina-
tons of color in which yellow and
red predominant, especially where
dark backgrounds are used. In
the new imports every shade from
pale green to bright red is seen,
though, of course, the smart
Parisienne follows the dictates of
her complexion as we'll as fashion.
With the color, the influences
of early civilization still dominate
the mode. Fashion expresses in a
thousand despotic ways the Per-
sian, the Byzantine, the Karoma-
MAN, Turkestan and peasant mo-
tifs. However, to one who looks
more deeply than the casual OBJ
server, it is apparent that flower
designs are fighting their way
into favor. Flower colors-rose
red, gentian blue-and much
spoken of.
There are blouses made Of silk
so printed that they are almost
legible. Designers say that at no
time can they remember having
such demands made upon them for
new patterns. The colors are ex-
quisite - an everlasting silken
rainbow greets your eye.
The impression gained from
survey of the blouses now being
exhibited in the salons is that the
blouse has attracted attention to
itself once more, and, being
greedy for all the notice it can
get, it is going to continue to be
focusing point in any costume
in which it appears.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02
New Variations of
the Jacket Blouse

One of the interesting aspects
of the fall blouse fashions IS the
continued popularity of the
jacquette, especially for early au-
tumn wear. The jacquette was
worn so extensively during the
spring months that it might have
been supposed to have had a brief
and exuberant Towering and an
early death. But such is not the
case. 1t remains with us, but IN
slightly altered guise.
The sash has to a considerable
extent disappeared, and where it
stays it is of such soft materials
as,to make it possible to wear the
jacquette under an outergarment.
And in the majority of cases it
has been supplanted by buckle
at the side after the lyle Of
buckles on dresses bearing the
side-drape, or in some instances
with an inconspicuous fastening of
deep enfolding belt. At this
point the jacquette becomes al
most indistinguishable from the
costume blouse, which is expected
to- come into its own with the
days Of late autumn and winter,
when the coat suit, fur-trimmed
and sumptuous, makes its appear
ance.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

and yellow. Jackets Of suits of
this sort may have separate col
lar, or even separate scarf,
which matches the suit perfectly
in fabric and color. Many of the
skirts have groups of pleats on
enc side, with a band beneath the
pleats.
A most successful suit for au-
turn is in navy blue wool reps
with wool embroidery of a bril-
liant color. The embroidery is in
the form of wide sleeve band
and band around the bottom of
the short jacket. This model is
sketched on today's page.
A Bernard suit, in navy blue
with brilliant wool embroidery, is
also sketched today. 1t has a pal
ticularly interesting collar and
cuffs, showing scarf.ends hanging
from corded bands.
Another smart suit from Ber-
nard is of the type frequently
noted on the Avenue du Bots on
Sunday morning, at the corner
called La Potiniere, or the "Gos-
sip Corner" Just where the ave-
nue. is crossed by Madakof, the
meeting place of fashionably
dressed women after church. The
suit is of gray cloth and made in
a plain tailored effect. A sketch
of this appears at the lower left
Of this page.
Bernard uses a great deal of
beige covert cloth for the plain
suits, in which he shows all the art
of tailoring combined with
feminine charm.
The short-jacketed suits take
precedence over all other styles
from a standpoint of numbers as
we'll as variations. Particularly
does the short jacket stand out
among the models made by So
called fashion leaders, such as
Chanel, jenny, Drecoll, Poiret
Beer and Agnes. Some of th'
models are so simple as to make
one wonder why they are put out
as models, but then one must adj
nit their charm, and that probab
ly is the answer.
Hunters Green Reps.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

Jean Patou, in showing his ad-
vance collection for autumn and
winter, has emphasized again the
popularity of the tailored suit,
both present and future. II New
York follows the Paris vogue it
will go in strongly for the blouse
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02
Watch Fobs Suspended.

O'Rossen, the Place Vendome
ladies' tailor, who specializes in
manufactured suits, has had ire
mendous success in Paris. He has
one model called O'Rossen, a per-
fectly plain. semi-fitting, mannish
tailored suit, of which he has
made no less than a thousand tc
be worn in Paris. A charming
note which O'Rossen adds to this
suit is a Regence watch fob, made
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02
Lambs Wool in Latest Shades
Used to Trim SmarteSt Models
The Blouse Jacket Suit With Plain or Peated Skirt.
Worsted Embroidery in Bright Colors Used
in Dark Blue Models

jacket suit with plain or pleated
skirt, often with a vest or blouse
especially designed to harmonic.
Patou's winter suits are trimmed
with lambs fur, beginning with
expensive close curl Persian and
the satin-like broadtail and sound
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

jackets to be worn with simple
cloth skirts are shown, as well as
beaded jackets with wool reps
skirts. One maker shows a beau
tiful green reps suit with a short
Jacket, in which the collar, cuffs
ar. girdle are covered with a
bead embroidery picked out in
green and black. The straight lit
tie Jacket has interesting tucked
fullness in both the body and
sleeves, and there are pleated side
panels in the skirt.
Great diversity is expressed in
the materials which Chanel uses
for her three-piece costumes. She
makes afternoon ensembles con-
sisting of a silk dress and wool
coat that have much in common
both as to line and color. This
designer favors the short skirt and
makes much of skirt flounces,
either circular, rufflei or pleated.
A four-piece suit by this maker
is made of smooth jasper serge. 1t
consists of full-length cape in
addition to hip-length jacket, a
narrow skirt with side pleats inset
at the level of the knee and a
white linen blouse.
Hunters green wool reps is q
material used for several new
model suits for autumn. O'Rossen
makes one of his greatest Paris
successes in this material and col
or. 1t consists Of a plain jacket
and skirt trimmed with machine
stitching on the belt of the jacket
and the yoke of the skirt.
Bright Wool Embroideries.
One Partisan maker of sports
dresses IS having considerable sue
cess with the sports dress in YET
low and white checked kasha OF
in all white kasha. When The tvs
materials are combined the jumper
blouse is of the novelty check anC
the pleated skirt is solid wl.ite.
A great deal of bright coloreC
wool embroidery is used on suits
being prepared for the coming
autumn. This wool offers an op.
portunity for every woman VIII
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

Hunters Green Reps.
NJ any all over embroidered
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

a Bernard suit phieh is one Of
the moa popular models in Paris
al the present time. Some of
the nep poolens used for mdk-
ing autumn suit, are olso shovn
in the sketch
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-02

A Helmet Developed.
And yet, bizarre as it may
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
High Record Held by
Arts Piebe de KOl
Production Of Wisconsin
Cow Has Been Profitable.

An average yearly production for IS
consecutive years of 1920 pounds Of
milk and 1927 pounds Of butter, or a
total of 93.9 IONS of milk and almost
foul tons of butter, is a record held by
a pure bred Holstsin COW, Artis Piebe
de Kol, owned by the Wisconsin Col
lege of Agriculture. This production
of milk is sufficient to supply one
quart Of milk to every family for one
day in the city of Washington, D. c.,
or Milwaukee, Wis.
The production of this COW has also
proved a profitable one. During her
10 years Of milking she has returned
a profit Of $2.45 for every dollars
worth Of feed consumed. Her net re-
turn during her lifetime thus far Is
$2,223.76 over cost of feed in addition
to the value of her offspring.
Arts is a COW with a large frame
and weighs around 1,4OO pounds Her
ability to convert feed into large quar-
titles Of milk and butterfat is due to
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Oous' Limitations.

An investigation is being made as to
the truth of an Arab assertion that
dogs cannot follow the trail Of a naked
pexon. A number of writer's vOuched
ADr the correctness of the contention
and proffered the results Of their own
experiences. One of the letters re-
ceiwed was from a French officer who
had spent many years among the
Arabs. He says in his letter: "Once.
when l found myself with a moving
cc&umn In Morocco, a sentry of mine
WAS stabbed no farther than 80 feet
from my tent by three Arabs. who
oame in the night, entirely naked,
wishing to steal a gun. Two very
good watch dogs lay In my tent, but
neither moved and there were other
dogs In the camp, but all were per
fectiy still as the Arabs came and
went" The writer of the letter ar
CUES that this fact proves the point,
but adds that Arabs themselves de-
clare they are unable to explain it.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09

upon the soil after all grass, roots and
other perishable matter have been re-
moved and the area brought to proper
level and firmly compacted.
Concrete feeding floors should be
made not less than four inches thick.
What is known as ~one-course construc-
ton, which means the same mixture
Of concrete throughout, should be used.
The mixture should be a 1:2 81, which
means one sack of portland cement to
two cubic feet Of clean, well-graded
sand, to three cubic feet Of clean peb-
bles or broken stone not to exceed Ia
inches in diameter. Two-inch lumber
should be set up for forms and firmly
staked to line and grade.
The floor should be sloped in at
least one direction so 1t will drain
quickly after rains. Sunshine and rain
will help keep the surface clean. A
slope Of one-quarter inch to the foot
will be enough.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Feed Fowls More Roots
and Vegetables for Eggs

BY feeding more roots and vege-
tables, the average poultry raiser can
reduce his feeding expenses materially
and also get more eggs. The cheapest
food is that which will make hens lay,
and the way to make hens lay is to
keep them in good health. 1t Is i'm
possible to have a flock in good laying
condition when only grain is given.
Such foods as carrots, turnips and
potatoes are not rich In reproducing
elements, but they perform a service
which renders all the other foods
eaten more valuable. Let the farmer
give his COWS nothing but corn and his
supply Of milk would soon be reduced.
1t is the same with hens and the egg
yield. From a dietary standpoint the
use Of roots is recommended, and they
will enable one to feed more hens and
get more eggs with little or no addi-
tional cost.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09

TIME OF WILDCAT BANKS
Derived From Picture of Early
Day Notes.

The term wildcats" today applied
tp worthless securities of any descrip-
Aon. was originally the name given
b certain banks in Michigan. Back
In 1887 there was a severe financial
panic. Many banks failed. The cur-
repcy which they had circulated be-
come worthless, many bogus banks
started up I'M issued bank notes"
and he country vas overrun with a
swarm of counterfeiters. Banking and
business were demoralized and, to
make matters worse, lax legislation
was passed In many states, permitting
almost any kind Of financial robbery
In the name of banking.
Such was the case in Michigan.
where 40 banks were started under a
lev of fraudulent character. These
hanks were called wildcats because
Ne bank notes issued by them bore
a picture of that animal. All but four
of these failed within two years, hence
the term wildcat" to denote a very
insecure financial Observation-Disclosures
Bank Bulletin.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Destroy Red Cedars and
Save Valuable Orchards

Apple rust cannot live without red
cedar trees. The moral then is to cut
out all red cedars within a mile of
valuable orchards. The Wealthy and
many Of the crab apples are particu-
larly susceptible to rust.
The disease Is caused by q fungus
which lives on red cedars and apple
trees. In winter the fungus abldes on
the cedars while waiting to spread mil
lions of spores in the spring to the ap-
pie leaves and fruit. Under the attack
the upper surface of the leaves reveals
small, sticky, honey-colored spores.
Later, orange-colored spots, sometimes
surrounded by a red margin, are pro-
duced on the lower surface. Trees bad
ly injected become partly ~defoliated
and have a rusty appearance. The
fruit is dwarfed and misshapen. Buds
which form this year are weakened
and will make only a poor crop next
year.
The spots on the under surface of
the apple leaves are the cluster cups
of the rust and the spores of the fun
gus produced In these cups are blown
to red cedarS on which they produce
the so-called cedar gals or cedar ap-
pies. This is a game which only two
can play-the red cedar and the ap-
pie; Infection cannot be transmitted
from one apple tree to another.
Several instances OF losses from rust
In southeastern Minnesota orchards
have been reported to J. G.. Leach of
University farm, an authority on fruit
and vegetable diseases. Doctor Leach
says that in Virginia and West Virgil
nia, where many apples are grown, the
red cedar Is being Systematically eradi-
Gated by counties. No red cedar Is left
standing within a mile Of an apple or
chard.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Minor Ailments
Are Overlooked
Numerous Ills of Swine Go
Unnoticed or Diagnosed
as Cholera.

prepared by the United States Department
of Agriculture.)
While hog cholera is still the most
serious of swine diseases with which
the farmer has to contend, his atten-
ton is called by the United States De-
partment Of Agriculture to the numer-
Gus other ailments of swine which, In
time Of unusual prevalence of cholera,
go unnoticed or possibly are diagnosed
as cholera itself. The group includes
anthrax, epilepsy, g~astroenteritis,
necrobacillosis, pleurisy, pneumonia,
poisoning, swine plague (hemorrhagic
septicemia), tuberculosis, and worms.
Diseases Not Recognized.
Other diseases not similar in appear
ance to hog cholera are either not rec
ognized or not deemed Of sufficient i'm
portance to require attention. Any de-
Walton from normal in the functions
of an animal, such as gait, appetite, or
digestion, deserves the closest watch
ing in order that measures may be
taken to prevent serious results and
possible losses. While some minor
ailments of swine might be treated
successfully by the owners, 1t Is al
ways well, in case of doubt, to call for
experienced service.
The owner Of hogs Is interested in
having his herd free from disease. The
healthier the animals the quicker they
will finish for market. In a large
number of cases sickness and I'M
thriftiness are due, directly or indi-
rectly, to improper care in housing,
feeding, and at narrowing time. Even
under the best conditions hogs are
liable to sicken, and in all circum-
stances Of that character there is need
of correct diagnosis in order that eff
fective treatment may be given. Many
factors are to be considered in dis
tinguishing between hog cholera and
the various other ailments and con-
disons that resemble that disease.
Less Loss From Cholera.
Although losses from hog cholera
have been reduced over 60 per cent
from the peak years of destruction,
the lack Of attention on the part of
farmers in the proper care of swine
herds still occasions a serious none
tary loss each year to the swine in
dustry as a whole. In all diseases,
ailments and Abnormal conditions Of
swine, the sane, simple and effective
method to adopt Is one of prevention.
knowledge of the symptoms which de-
note the minor ailments is one of the
best assets the swine raiser can have
In insuring himself against losses from
them.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
HPERFECT SCREEN LOVERS.
REUNITED In NEW PLAY

Norma Talmadge and Eugene
O'Brien will again be seen together
in 1.-THE Voice From the Minaret," a
First National picture which is COM
ing to the Kenworthy theatre on Sun
day.
These two have won the appella-
ton of 'the perfect screen lovers
and motion picture fans everywhere
have hailed with delight the news
that they would once more be able
to see O'Brien cast as leading man
to Miss Talmadge.
In "The Voice From the Minaret,''
which was directed by Frank Lloyd
from Robert Hichens' novel, the
star playe the part of Lady A%drienne,
wife of the governor of Bombay,
while O'Brien has the role of An
drew Fabian an Englishman who
a trip to the Holy Land for
the purpose of study, and finds love
on the sands Of the desert.
"The Voice From the Minaret' is
declared to be the best picture il
which Miss Talmade has ever ap-
peared.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Marked Ability of Idaho
Bow as a Stock Breeder

One Shorthorn COW for which the
youthful purchaser gave his personal
note three years ago so that he might
feed and care for the animal as a part
of his club work, was the means of an
Idaho club boy, Frank Hankins, deyel-
oping marked ability as a stockmnn.
For three years he has cared for and
managed his i've stock according to the
improved methods advocated by his
agricultural extension agent, adding to
his herd until he now owns eleven
head of exceptionally fine pure bred
Shorthorn cattle. His profits for the
year 1922. according to reports to the
United States Department of Agricul-
lure, were $1,S48.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Arrangement for Hog
Feeding Quite Handy
Originated and Used at Hi
nois Experiment Station.

A handy arrangement for feeding
hogs originated and used at the Illi-
nois agricultural experiment station
farm is shown herewith. 1t consists
Of a concrete feeding floor II feet wide
and IA feet long and w concrete
troughs each II feet long made sep
arate from the f1oor. At the outside
corners of the troughs four posts are
set in the concrete floor. To these
are spiked 2 by S-inch pieces
which support panels which can
be swung over the troughs. This
feature enables the herdsman to keep
the hogs away from the trough while
it is being filed. A strap iron fixture
holds the panel in the position de-
sired.
One of the easiest Improvements for
the hog raiser to build is a concrete
feeding floor; and it will bring him
quicker and larger returns for the
money invested than any other part OF
his hog raising equipment. Loss OF
valuable feed is prevented when hogs
are fed on a concrete hoor.
Considerable time and labor will be
saved if the feeding floor is located
near the cOrncrib or granary. 1t is
desirable to place the feeding floor on
the south or east side of the corncrib
or h%oghouse, as it will then be largely
protected from cold winds. The loca-
ton selected should be well drained.
Where the ground is firm and well
drained, concrete may be laid directly
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Much Butter Being Made
on a Household Scale

Farmers and their wives residing on
the approximately 100000 farms,
where at least one COW is kept on
each, continue the practice Of making
butter on a household scale, despite
the growth of modern creameries to
the extent of 1886 in number in 1922.
For the purpose Of making butter on
the farms. 1925, 100000 pounds Of
whole milk were utilized last year and
6zB,OO0;OoO pounds Of this pDduct vas
manufactured. Thus nearly 40 per
cent Of the total butter production Of
the United States is made on approx
mately one-half of the farms Of me
country.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Permit Hens to Select
Own Mash Constituents

A study Of the free choice system
Of mash feeding for chickens made by
the United States Department Of Asri-
culture at its experiment farm located
at Beltsville, Nd, showed that the best
results and highest egg production are
obtained when hens are allowed to
select their own mash constituents.
1t vas found that hens selected a
mash composed of CO parts cornmeal,
20 parts meat scraps, 4 parts wheat
bran, and 4 parts wheat middlings.
This mash gives best results with Leg
horns, and a less stimulating mash,
more bran and ground oats,
with less meat scrap, has given better
with general-purpose breeds.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Romance of Stolen Mail Bag.


The English post office department
maintains an official of the nature of
a historian whose duty is, among 9TH
er things. to collect and record vari-
- data about the service. One of
tt most curious exhibits of the de-
Uartment Is a time-worn oil-canvas
mail bag-a Renaissance Of a daring
mail robbery. This bag is over 100
years old, and was forcibly taken by
an armed footpad n evening in Feb
ruary, 1898, from the postboy who
was carrying the mails between York
and Selby. A reward was offered for
the apprehension of the rObber, but no
trace of him or the mail bag was found
u4fii nearly eighty years later. The
discovery then came about In a most
singular ann In 1876 an old way
side inn was being demolished at
Churchill nea Selby, and in the raft
ers the workmen found, among other
things. the long-lost mail bag, it hav-
ing evidently been hidden there by the
highwayman of 1898, after being de-
spoiled Of it's contents.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Kniffen System Favored
for Pruning of Grapes

HorticulturiSts at the New York ex
pertinent station have tested out seven
methods Of pruning grapes over a pc
Rod Of years and have published an
account Of their experiments which
will be Of interest to both the profess
sional and amateur grower. The SO
called single-stem or four-cane Kniffen
method is said to be the best.
According to these authorities, this
method consists in training a single
branch to serve as the trunk Of the
vine with two canes developed at the
lower wire and two at the upper wire
and tied one to the right and one to the
left Of the trunk along each wire. It
Is stated that the system may be fully
established by the end of the fourth
a and that subsequent pruning
consists in cStting away all canes but
the four mentioned above, leaving suf-
icient buds at each level to supply
fruiting canes for the following year.
The amount of fruiting wood is thus
easily limited to the capacity Of the
vine by regulating the length Of the
four canes.
Experiments at the station have led
to the conclusion that there Is little
choice between early winter pruning
and spring pruning Of grapes so far as
the effect on yield, wood growth, or
maturity Of fruit Is concerned. 1t Is
pointed out, however, that a better &C.
lection of fruiting canes can be made
In the spring after the severe winter
temperatures have passed than is pos
sible earlier in the season.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1923-11-09
Burberry Bush Harbors
Black Stem Wheat Rust

Thousands Of people throughout the
Middle West have learned during the
past years, at the various county and
state affairs, to recognize the common
barberry bush, which harbors the
black-stem rust of wheat. The demon
STATIONS at the fairs have created con-
siderable interest among wheat grow
ers and they have expressed them
selves as being anxious to cooperate
in the campaign to eliminate the bar
berry bush in order to minimize the
losses from black-stem rust Of wheat.