Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-04-15
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CONTINUED from F1fth Pa&e)
they might renew their pIumage for
another time.
However. many Of the hunters grew
careless, particularly as the birds
were good eating and the black
feathers, which composed the balance
Of the covering. were of use in other
forms OF the feather work.
.WHES tho feather, were plucked
little tufts OF five, that being
the number required as a medium of
calculation in tribute or in trade.
These were fastened together by a
shred of fiber.
The first step in making the ahuula
or feather cape was to secure the
olona or hber netting which serves
as the basis Of all cloaks. This fiber
comes from the Touchardia latifolia,
closely allied to the ramie and Is
found in the ravines and mountain
sides. The bark is stripped and
soaked and scraped on a long narrow
board with a scraper made OF turtle
bone or Of pearl she'll. The hank of
fiber is fastened to the small end of
the board and the sccraper soon gets
the long shreds of fiber out. He then
twists it on the thigh, using no spin
die. The cord or thread varies great
ly in the net used for the cloaks. AS
the loom was unknown, the net was
formed with a netting needle simii-,
lar to those found in the relics OF
ancient Egyptians, made into bands
of eight to twelve inches wide, and
cut and rolled and shaped much as
modern cloth would be. One Of the
long capes had more than thirty ir-
regular pieces Of net In its construc-
ton.
Feathers were fastened to the net
with Amer thread and bound secure
ly by two or three turns of the
thread. The shaft Of the feather
was bound by one turn Of the
thread, then bent and at the end
bound by another turn Of the thread
to the next lower mesh. Thus they
could not be pulled out.
Usually the tufts OF feathers were
placed one sixth Of an inch apart so
that the surface was heavily COW
ered and all Of the binding thread
and netting completely hidden. The
reverse side of the cape showed no
feathers at all. though the tiny quilts
showed through tho netting. 1t is
noticeable that the triangle and
crescent played q prominent part in
the decoration OF these garments.
These designs were used in the
whole or in sections and were usual
ly made Of feathers Of different color.
The Aulick cape in the National
Museum IL OF q thick light yellow
ground, while the crescents which
form the decorative note Of color
are OF the scarlet feather Of the Twill.
While the garment lies fiat these
designs do not particularly impress
one. but whom the great cloak swings
into proper folds about the mascu-
line figure (women were never al
lowed to wear them unless queens),
the divisions connect and the whole
effect is most striking.
Ihlu Cope WniCu pciohBeo u nd
mehameha, was in process of con-
struction during the reigns of eight
rulers before his regime.
Axk
THIS feather work is peculiarly
i interesting. because OF it's an
tiquity, since the knack or craft
or art Of II had been lost fifty years
before the first account Of 1t became
known.
The Hawaiian monarchs continued
to wear the royal mamo capes of
ahuulas at their coronation, cere.
monies. their state functions and at
the opening of the parliament 1t was
thrown over the throne as symbol
Of the royal powes 19ea after the