davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10
Tailor Birds ingenuity.

The tailor bird, an East Indian
warbler, is peculiar mainly in his nest
making. The actual structure of his
ingenious cradle has never been sclen-
titically observed, 1t Is said, although
tailor birds are common, remarks the
Detroit News. He either sews dead
leaf to living me or joins two neigh
boring leaves together so as to form
kind of hanging pouch, which remains
attached to the branch by the leaf
stalk Of one or both leaves. The
threads which the tailor bird uses con
sist generally of twisted vegetable
fibers or of actual cotton threads, the
bill serving for needle in puncturing
holes in the leaves and In drawing the
threads through. Occasionally, II a
large enough leaf be found the nest
may be formed by Joining together the
free edges of the leaf.
The lower part of the pouch contains
the nest, which Is cup Of soft ma
terials, and Is entered from above.
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10
UnansWerablo.

1t is the custom of certain western
magistrate, after having passed SEN
tence upon the culprits convicted In
his court, to give them more or less
wise advice.
On one occasion having before him
a person convicted of theft, he started
thus.
"If you want 20 succeed in this
world you must keep straight. Now,
do you understand"
"Well, not quite" replied the prison
er, but If your honor will kindly tell
me how man Is to keep straight
when he is trying to make both ends
meet, I might"
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10

On boat it's merchandise that
makes the cargoe; on land it's
that makes the car go.
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10

What every banker knows is
that many a man is unable to keep
his balance and his automobile.
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10

Good substitutes have been
found for nearly everything eX-
cept work.
Vashon Island news-record. [volume] (Vashon, Wash.) 1919-1954, 1923-08-10

The Valley of Content lies be
low the Mountain of Desire. You
can't live in both places.
Evening star., 1923-06-24

fragile paper parssol of Japan, gay
as a butterfly or child's top. can
be carried anywhere this summer
except in the streets of great city.
Fashion is turning to China for
much inspiration a 1t did in the days
of Louis XIV. Therefore we should
be prepared for the new trend in
fashion. Interior decorators are
going there to assemble the same
kind of furniture and art objects
which our Colonials brought home to
put with their fine old English furni-
ture.. Our houses are soon to be
Georgian, you know, no longer
French. not only on the outside. but
the inside, even to linen and silver,
colored birds and chintz. What a
happy change! French gilt furniture
was never intended for the heavy
American house nor the type of life
we lead, which is modelled on Eng.
lish traditions brought here to mold
our first civilization,
The shawl has not ousted the muf-
fer. Neither has. the hot weather.
Evening star., 1923-06-24

Charles L. The ladies of that day
wore deep lace collars which partly
obscured the bodice, cut in round
decoUetage and having the identical
tight necklace of large pearls or
beads that was revived last winter
So insistent is the demand for this
particular kind of ornament that the
shop counters glow with it. Glass
Of every hue is used. There are
bracelets and long earrings to match
the necklace. Spun glass is a Paris
fancy that went we'll at Palm Beach.
But long beads OF Peking blue are the
desire of the fashionable. -
Curious cvrystals are sought and
found by women. Ancient designs
are copied. No color is too garish.
We may have taken the fashion from
the ladies of Charles l, but we come
within a gnat's nose, as they say in
the. south, of looking like the Cam
bodian ballet dancers.
Few women exist who do not be-
lieve that, given sirdle, they can
change the appearance of any frock,
Evening star., 1923-06-24

Sirdles worn; far easier to tell ols
those which are eliminated The
metal belt is finished The broad
band of flowers is in the third clAsa.
The sash that tied in the back never
made headway, although the large
hustle bow at one hip still holds po-
sition sd
The narrow belt of picot ribbon
tied at the back in a small bow with
elongated ends continues to be worn
by women who can fiaunt the SMALL
ness of their waist. The brightly
colored leather belt with twisted ends
and without buckle is seen here and
there on frocks of soft cloth or
knitted silk, but the American woman
omfts 1T from a short jacket
She likes her coats straight. loose,
short and open. AS far as one can
prophesy, this shape will hold through
the autumn.
THE gfrdie ornament has slipped
from side to front. That's the in
fiuence of the Orient contending
against the classic, which calls for
drapery on the bias with the en-
phasis placed on one hip. 1t is not
easy for women to wear a buckle in
front, yet the emphasis is. now
placed on what we call our stomach.
although 1t isn't. Slim women will
have, a new reason to f1aunt the
superiority OF their figures in the
faces: of the thick-set.
New French gfrdles hold in the
hips with. a severity that we asso-.
ciate With barefoot dancers. but
there lis no hope that the middle
aged woman will not wear them. She i.
will
Instead, of gowns getting fooser,
they grow tighter. The momentary
fashion for the wide -skirted frock :
appears to- be vanishing over the
back horizon, !;
With the Increasing prestige Of
the orient gorgeous girdle orna-
ments become more imperative. AS
they are to be worn in front. they
will be large and costly, initiating:
the jeweled stomacher of other
epochs. Genuine gems are lr@-
sought than queer and colorful semi
precious ones. which grow more eX'.
pensive as they wax in power.
1t was in old Venice that costl:-
trifies and brilliant accessories were
the hearts desire Of fine ladita
This came about when wealth was
assured and fashion established. II
was the desire, also, of the fancifui
ladies of the eighteenth century. We
are now entering a phase of fashio..
when the small things in dress vie
with the big ones.
Copyright, 1897
Evening star., 1923-06-24

of coats. skirts and blouses. Why,
then, buy them? Economic as we
may, the American buys more
clothes than the women of any
other nation. That's why the French
like us. Think of buying seventy
six gowns for the summer season,
which the cables reported as the
order of an American woman to a
European dressmaker, Think of the
order of a dancer from New York
for $4,000 worth of clothes for her
Paris season,
We know little of the parsimony
in buying clothes which is the habit
among Europeans in high places.
Our dressmakers show US quickly
how our prodigality has become a
national habit when they are not
pleased with an order for a single
gown or suit.
One of them said: 81 am not in the
least interested in any woman who
wishes to limit her purchase to one
gown, no matter what the price. We
only care for clients who order from
Evening star., 1923-06-24


six to dozen with hats and accasso-
ries to match"
This is no fairy tale. 1t is a confes-
sion in more than one New York
esta blishment. The woman who can
afford only a single high priced frock
and hat four times year. has visions
of being barred from the big dress
making houses. -5
What then? Why, she. will turn to
shops which have advanced in their
handling of merchandise far beyond
the dreams OF merchants. And she
will augment the single gown or suit
with enhancing accessories.
X X n
WHAT are accessories? is a question
w of the hour, because of the amaz-
ing quantity and variety of trifles
grouped under this easy term. Once
a woman called waistcoat by It's
name and a short sack of brilliant
fabric as it was christened. A para
sol and pair Of gloves had their
identity. Not so today. There is a
gown and hat-and mass of other
! things to go with them which range
over half the field of clothes.
In this mass women take delight.
They browse over it as over bar
gain counter. They feel they are
not investing much money in the pur-
chase Of a few things just to make
that crepe frock available for the
rest of the season, or that serge suit
serve for a pleasure trip-yet, they
| end by spending as much money on
accessories as on the orinigal gown.
Well, that's good for business.
Here. therefore, are some of the
limelight trifies that the summer sea-
son begets and fosters:
/ Parasols. handbags. gloves, colored
shoes, girdles. hip ornaments. colored
! glass necklaces, lingerie vests, odd
| and curious collars. sleeveless jackets,
Victorian sacks of brilliant foulard.
embroidered cotton. cretonne, colored
velveteen, also shawls.
Neither Egypt nor Cochin China in
| spired shawls. They came up from
Evening star., 1923-06-24

The Krupps began their existence
as steelmakers, and they made cruci-
BILE steel more than a century ago.
They have always made, more or less,
guns, shells and armor plate. but
before the world war they were the
biggest steeImakers of Europe, and
in 1914 their steel output was more
than a million and a half tons. At
that time they were making war ma
chinery of various kinds. but the offi-
cials tell me that all but 10 per cent
OF the steel went into such things as
rails, sections, plates. forgings and
castings of one kind and another.
During the war the works were con-
verted into one huge munitions fac
tory. turning out thousands of guns
and millions of shells. They then en-
ployed 115.000 workmen here at Essen
alone and in the various factories
had altogether 10000 engaged in war
work.
NoW thak4hsrwar 10 over, they have
Evening star., 1923-06-24

upon entering. The whole is q will
derness of moving belts and gigantic
implements.
The din is so great that one cannot
hear his own voices A thousand ham,
mers are pounding on as many diff
ferent pieces of iron. Scores Of work.
men are riveting boilers, and huge
travelling cranes, some carrying loco
motives, move back and forth through
the works. Here they are cutting
steel plate with acetylene fame and
i can see the sparks fly as ] stand, in
the gallery which runs around the
shop. / am told that more than 5000
men are working away under my
ewes. Moving on, 1 see them assem-
bling the locomotives, and farther
still enter shop covering IAN acre
or SO, where painters are finishing
them.
On my way out I stop and talk to
the workmsn. Those handling fine
machinery ana doing skilled labor re-
Evening star., 1923-06-24

One discards woolen for summer, but
spends money or time upon crepe,
cotton, or odd and curious fabrics
The main desire is to have whatever
lis conspicuous in coloring and design.
complacently ignoring the common-
place.
II +
THERE is recrudescence of the
i lace collar, although the Ameri-
can woman gives the deep bertha
cold shoulder. Small lace collars,
welI-shaped, keep many harsh cloth
lines from the skin of the neck. so
their use should be encouraged. Wash
blouses- have attached collars.
jackets have rolling ones, evening
frocks begin to show the ancient
square decolletage with "modesty"
piece of rare lace across the chest.
This fashion is not the influence
of Egypt. 1t comes from softer
idea of dress, bit of the Victorian
grated on the Venetian. We may
be barking back to the dress of
Evening star., 1923-06-24

gone back to the making of steel
and the assembling and finishing of
many kinds Of machinery. They have
reorsanized the plant. have standard
ICED the MANUFACTURES of all articles
produced in large quantities and have
made their plans for running the In
stitution to a greater capacity than
ever.
X X
nURING my stay here have gone
u through some of the reconverted
gun shops. Take the famous Hinden-
burg works, which ran day and night
during the war 1t is now one of the
largest locomotive plants of Europe
and is making locomotives, not only
for Germany, but for Russia, South
America and almost everywhere that
trains run: Imagine a boiler factory
covering ten acres filled with railroad
steam engines in every stage of con-
struction and you have some fdsa
of the scene that greeted my eyes
Evening star., 1923-06-24
haws Victorian Sacques Drectoe Canes Other Accessories

the first and second empires. Both
Josephine and. Eugenie wore them.
So did Victoria, but her wearing of
them did not add to their prestige
as her personal style was deplorable.
As wedding presents she made them
famous over England. adding thereby
to her reputation for parsimony.
When the gorgeous Spanish shawl
came into fashion two years ago it
was relegated to the women who
like to be conspicuous. Now 1t is
broadcasted. Its price has gone up
to correspond with its prestige. The
peasants of Europe would think we
were crazy If they knew the present
cost Of their commonest piece Of wear
ing apparel.
The woman of limited income is
making her own shawl. She en-
broiders cashmere or crepe with the
roses of Spain, the dragons or China,
the pyramids of Egypt, the peacocks
and butterflies of Indo-China. with
the knotted fringe of silk floss. The
effect is all one hopes.
BY the way, these homemade
shawls have reached the first line of
wedding gifts. Sedate as they are
| reckoned by the old, the young find
them daring and rakish.. None try
! to make them appear demure or
| serviceable. ta
The shops show square shawls. in
brilliant colors with striped borders
! which are worn with the corners
! hanging to the waist They are a
! glorifica ton of the ill-used Deauville
! handkerchief.
/ The ladies of the directoire car
1 ried canes and wore shawls on the
j street to hide. their amazing display
i of body above the waist, SO We pick
Eup both .these accessories for this
reason We have. not adopted the
negligible bodice of Josephine with
its puffed sleeves. but we bare 'our
arms to the public no matter what
the hour or season, so there fs rea-
son enough for the ornamental shawl.
The revival of the gay and vivid
| walking cane by women Is merely a
bit of swank, as the English put 1t.
But no one has yet put bunch of
roses in it as Tosca did.
- +x*
I>VEN the parasol and rain UNI
! l. brella Is disguised as Directoire
cane. Bright bits of cashmere shawls
are made into tight covers. This is
their last line of defense for every
other fabric is preferred for shawl
to the kind that started the fash
ion Such is public ingratitude.
Sometimes the snug helmet is orna-
mented with a bit of cashmere il
there is a walking cane or umbrella
covered with the fabric, but not
| Whatever ladies and gentlemen of
more fantastic and coquettish days
chose for walking canes Is the in
spiration for this season. Polished
wood with gay enamel knobs is pre-
ferred 1t matches the new kind of
Paris vanity box which is shaped in
circle and swings from the finger
by silken cord.
The parasol blazed path of
brilliancy for the walking cane.
China furnishes much that is lovely,
especially the Vanished paper kind
with softly colored design. The
Evening star., 1923-06-24
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

r F France is in a turmoil designing
new clothes, trying to arrange
ber annual labor strike in the
Il dressmaking places. getting ready
for the American invasion of dress
buyers. America is being quite reck-
lass with accessories. The shops.
tue high-priced houses. the manu-
facturers are doing delightful things
In that sector OF dress which inter-
ssts the woman who knows the value
of assembling trif1es.
1t is far more alluring TO shop for
accessories in hot weather than to
analyze and criticize new frocks and
wraps. The average woman rarely
ceases to be Interested in getting a
| new trife to go with an old frock.
1t refreshes her outlook on life.
Not all purses are sufficiently
elastic to let women buy big pieces
OF clothing whenever anything new
sails over the horizon. Not every
woman has enough opportunity to
get good service out of closet full
Evening star., 1923-06-24

are the Krupps, who control Essen
and its surroundings. Then comes
Hugo SHINES, who has the Bochum
blast furnaces and steel works and
controls the Deutsche Luxembourg
Mining and Smelling Company, as
we'll as the Gelsenkirchen coal mines,
and then August Thyssen who has
the blast furnaces of Hamborn. The
Phoenix group, headed by Herr Poems
gen; controls the steel works near
Duisburg and there are other large
companies Of note. This letter rer
lates to the Krupp plant, which is
a fair type of the. whole.
have gone through the Krupp
works several times in the past.
visited them first twenty years ago,
when they were making steel rails,
machinery. cannon and munitions for
all parts of the world, and I saw them
again before the war. when every
branch of the establishment had in
creAaedsmany fold
Evening star., 1923-06-24
Veal With Caulifower.

Have the breast of veal cut into
convient pieces and sprinkle each
piece with salt and ginger. Brown
in hot fat, add sliced onion and half
cupful of canned tomatoes. Add a
little hot water if necessary, cover.
and cook for two hours. Thicken the
LIQUID with flour Drowned in butter
and add to the veal a little cream.
Season with pepper and minced pars-
ley and serve in a border of cauli-
flower cooked in boiling salted water.
Evening star., 1923-06-24

The shops continue to sell a collec-
tion of trifies to match. one of which
is the neck scarf. 1t is gayer than
ever.
Encouraged by its success. those
who make bathing suits have in
vented a muff1er and cap Of orna-
mental rubber with a painted design;
something fantastic. you may be. sure.
Smart women of the kind who
adopt the highly vanished paper
umbrella from China wear these
rubber trifies in the country on rainy
days. II you want to be conspicuous
in your community and secure from
the weather. you might as well
adopt this impervious costume. 1t
Is "A vast Improvement on the hide
Gus apparel in which we met moist
ure in other days.
Green is one of the prevailing
colors for sport mufffers and cotton
crash is as good a material as
knitted silk. Embroidered cash
mere is fashionable; also Paisley.
Evening star., 1923-06-24

KruppW
for ofo ar
Evening star., 1923-06-24
by FRANK G. CARPENTER.

ESSEN.
er that rises above the general
Offices Of the Krupp works and
take a mlnd's-eye view of the
Ruhr. We are in the heart Of the
largest single industrial district on
earth. the great coal basin of Ger
many. at the junction of the Rhine
and thte Ruhr, where all about are
factories and foundries and all be-
low, reaching far down into the
earth, are the beds Of black diamonds
the possession of which is now ex
citing the nations
Yhis little valley, only fifteen miles
wide and about fifty miles long, is
within a hundred and fifty miles of
France. within fifty miles of Belgium
and not far from the great ocean port
Of Rotterdam by way of the Rhine.
It IS one of the great railroad centers
<sk northwestern Europe, where twen-
tS~three double track lines come in
from and 60 out to all points of the
compass. and where the whole coun-
w Is covered with a network of
high power transmission wires and
industrial railways. .'..,
Essen, which is in plain sight from
the tower, has now 650,000 popula-
tion. 1t had only 10000 in 1884, and
when the war began, its population
was less than 100000. Since then it
has gained so per cent, and, should
the troubles with the French be soon
settled, II will again put on its seven
league boots.
Dortmund. another manufacturing
center not far away, has 100000. Duis-
burg, on the Rhine, has 'I25, 900,
Gelsenkirchen and Bochum are big
cities and the rest of the valley is
so spotted with industrial villages and
>plants that about one in fifteen of all
the people Of Germany live and work
here. The region Is one of the most
thiokly populated on the globe. 1t
is a little bigger than Rhode Island.
and it has more than 4 o0O. 900 people.
over 100000 are said to be employed
in the mines and the factories
NOW look at the little river be-
low u.s., In normal times it is filled
4 with barges and the caravan of traf-
fc climbs mp and down the locks.
which makes it navigable to witten,
about forty miles from where II flows
into the Rhine. That is the Ruhr.
1t would be a little more than q creek
In the United States. George Wash
inston, who threw a silver dollar
across the Rappahannock, could have
thrown a cannon ball across the Ruhr
y and had strength to spare. But the
Ruhr Is one of the most important
waterways of this part of the world.
BY its access to the Rhine it gives
this region an outlet to the North
sea, and by means of canals the
barges can reach almost any part of
western, central and southern Ep-
rope. The Rhine is connected by the
Rhine-Marne and Rhine-Rhone canals
with France, and goods from the
Ruhr valley can be sent almost to
y the Mediterranean by water. Bel
gium is reached by canal and, through
the Rhine-Danube canal, exports can
one Of the most complete canal sys-
TENS of the world. and the most Of II
has access TO this valley.
xx X
As to land transportation, small
"A as the Ruhr valley is, it has one.
eighth Of the German railway
system. and it's trains carry about
10 per cent of the German freight
trefiic. Normally $4,000 cars q
day are required for the hauline
Of coal and -the- good odsasnAnufanturA6
Evening star., 1923-06-24

and in so doing they lift it from
obscurity. This season they have
their chance. The world and its shops
are full of girdles. Many are fac
tory-made; others are. fashioned by
clever women who give the secret
away to their friends, or by a dress
maker in an inspired hour.
1t is impossible to tell of all the
Evening star., 1923-06-24

SQUARE SHAwLs. COLoRs. FNCERLEss GLOVES.
EMBROIDERED GLOVES AND THICK WALKING CANES TO
MATCH G THE SKETCH M SHOWS GROUP OF THESE ARRANGED
TO CATCH THE EYE OF THE PUBLIC THERE is ALSO NOV
ELTY NECKLACE OF LARGE YELLOW BEADS WHICH CROSS
IN BACK AND ARE WEIGHTED IN FRONT WITH HEAVY TAS.
Evening star., 1923-06-24

AS to land transportation, small
1 i as the Ruhr valley is, it has one
eighth of the German railway
system, and it's trains carry about
70 per cent of the German freight
trefYic. Normally $4,000 cars .
day are required for the hauling
NJ coal. and the. xoodssrnanufacturA
Evening star., 1923-06-24

THE FROCK IS IN BLUE AND
GRAY PRINTED FOULARD,
WITH BLUE SASH AT ONE
SIDE. THE BLOUSE IS LOOSE
AND LONG-WAISTED, THE
SKIRT NARROW AND SLIGHT
LY IRREGULAR. AT LEFT is
4 NEW SHORT SEPARATE
JACKET FOR SUMNER, WITH
LINGERIE VEST AND, SLEEVE
RUFFLES IN WHITE WITH
FAINT COLOR. AT RIGHT is
SLEEVELESS SPORT VEST OF
RED SILK TOUCHED WITH
WHITE AND WORN OVER
WHITE SILK BLOUSE.
Imperial Valley press., 1923-03-21
Several Big Features
on CLUB Calendar

As March has five Thursdays, no
club meeting is scheduled for next
week. The Year Book announces n
drama program by Mrs. Leroy
Bailey for April 5. The Twice Told
Tales section will give the second
program in April, musical by Mrs.
Arthur Penberthy is announced for
May 3, and the club will close its
wear with the annual meeting and
luncheon on Nav II.
Several social events remain 70 be
carried out in the social calender OF
the year.
The state convention of C. +. w.
c. will be held in May at Eureka.
Delegates Will attend from valley
clubs. Interest in the events is en-
HANGED by the fact that a new state
president is to be elected this year
to succeed Mrs. Fitzgerald who has
served the two years permitted b.;
the laws. SO far, only two have
been seriously considered for the
position-.Dr, Mariana Bartoa Of
San FransiscO and Mrs. John UrIu-
hart OF Los .Ange.es. 1t is Thought
. that Mrs. Urquhalt will be elected
as the southern part of the state
is entitled :his year to the honor
according to precedent.