San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-02-18
Figured Goods and En-
broidery Of Exotic Beauty
to Feature Summer
Gowns With Cut Along
Present Lines.

Special Cable to The San Antonio Light
and the Chicago Daily News.
Copyright, 1928.
Paris, Feb. 17.-The famous Off
cial spring fashion openings are now
in full swing and it is possible to de-
scribe authoritatively not only the
new outlines but the gorgeous colors
and materials which will prevail in
the styles during the coming season.
These openings, during what is known
as the "big week." become brilliant
social events in the great dress making
houses. While models in glittering
pageantry display nev suits and
gowns before important customers,
writers, designers and manufacturers
who are fortunate enough to obtain
invitations, elaborate supperS are
served to the guests and many cham
payne toasts are drunk TO the. sue
4 cess of the new creations.
The essential qua-ity Of the 1923
styles is somewhat paradoxical. With
youthfulness, almost naiVete of de-
sign and with simplicity of line are
combined the utmost sophistication in
decorative beauty of material and
elaborateness of embcoideries. The
years creations are perhaps an even
greater triumph for such manufacture
ers of materials as Rodier and Bian-
chini and for the Paris coutourieres
f, themselves but if the cut of the cos
: tune lacks dramatic quality this
T omission is amply compensated for
by the beauty of the new figures and
embroidered materials. For example,
Doeuillet features straight line, lit
tie tailored suits and morning dresses
made of a new cloth called bladed al
paca wherein there is an almost me-
tallic glow. The material itself is dis
creetly gray, black or brown but is
made so lovely by an undertOne of
dull gold or silver with the high lights
showing bright glints that any other
adolnment to the suit would be super
fluoUs.
Metallic Sheens Popular.
For evening gowns and wraps also
this will be decidedly season of me-
tallic sheens, especially gold. Beside
the new changcable green and gold,
scarlet and gold and black and gold
tissues are combinations of gold,
brown and silks entirely covered with
embroidery in gold threads. Also not
able is the new dark silver tone in
brocades while silver cloth on which
are printed charming flower designs
in the sOftest colorings makes attrac-
tive evening gowns.
! This tendency to mike the materi-
ais the dominating feature is further
revealed in afternoon and in formal
dance dresses of new gaily printed
crepe de chine or georgette Crepes.
Many of these dresses have designs
and colorings like those of Persian
shawls or Moroccan handkerchiefs.
Others are printed all over with small
flower designs like the old-fashiOned
challis. Each firm shows at least
' two crepe creations in large flower de-
signs of black and white and each
shows several made CT colOred silk
handkerchiefs. Linief, the originality
and charm of whose collection is one
of the sensations of the seasor. makes
much use of the handkerchief fash
ion for dresses, for little jackets TO
be worn with pleated skirts, for blouses
and for three-piece suits. With such
suits n separate handkerchief is often
employed as a scarf at the neck.
At Douillet's opening a summer
frock made of one big Moroccan hand
kerchief in red and vivid green and
white received applause. When