davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

= Is somewhat early for straw
hats, but they dot the landscape
even when it is covered with
snow and sleet. But what use is
IL to argue with women against the
wearing OF unreasonable clothes?
They consider that a straw hat lends
piquancy to a snowstorm. that vel
vet hat Is rather whimsical on a blaZ-
ing August day. Most of women's
caprices are purposeful, you know.
Behind them lie centuries OF subtle
know this or they may not reveal it.,
but women know 1t of women.
The trade, of course. helps us 10 be
whimsical and capricious in clothes ;
therefore We have plentiful offer
ing of spring hats at the moment
when fur coats are put into needfui
service. But IL fashion were not bit
humorous, something of jest, it
would be a dull world. Those who
consider clothes as mere coverings to
keep them warm or cool look upon
fashion with lack-lustre eyes.
The spring hats that have arrived
with Palm Beach clothes are OF taf-
feta, of horse hair, of various straws,
Chinese and Italian. There's an amaz-
ing variety of names for these fab
RIGS but the public cares less and less
for names. 1t has ceased to inquire
who is the maker of gown, hat or
a fabric. We have arrived at a condi-
tion where tho label of a French
dressmaker is nearly meaningless to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14
Housewives Task.

If there are delicate children in /,
her family the housewife resolves to
make 1t her personal business during
the next year to see that the food
for the children is we'll cooked and
kept as scrupuIously clean as possible.
She resolves to put matters of diet
ahead of matters Of household decora-
ton or thought Of dress for the com
ing year.
II there is a tendency on the part .
OF children and adults to drift away a..
from home, in leisure hours the .
housewife resolves to spend more,
time and money in providing home
entertainment. She buys indoor.
games with the money she had
planned to spend on new equipment.
and reads directions for playing sonea
new game that all the members of.'
her family can enjoy. instead OF
directions for new pudding. so
II she has come to the end of the
year worn out and tagged the houses;
wife wisely resolves to plan her.
family schedule so that there will be !.
time for a nap every day, evenc
though the nap must needs be brief a
II her eyes find no place to rest
with satisfaction within the four
walls OF her house the housewife
wisely resolves not to let the next
year wane until she has developedss
scheme of decoration in her own
house. =
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

Life is the main issue. And life alone
can act as an adequate buffer be-
tween two personalities bound in the
bond Of wedlock. "is a'-.s
!. $3.50 - -. -,
- - y Il = x -,
IF you haven't enough hundrum iiv-
J. ing issues to contend with,
there's going to be trouble, The
reason our grandmothers stood
our grandfathers was not because
they were spiritually blended, but
because they. had SO much else to
think about. Soap. making. weaving.
scrnbbing, washing, cooking, raising
half > dozen babies-such. things are
excellent connter-irritants to the pos.
sible peeyishness. OF a partner.
There wasn't an inch Of common
ground between u.s. grieyed Edith.
Pine! All married partners possess
acres of, common ground. If they
will look for it. In fact. there. 10
mighty little in human experience
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

is far better in sports than in the
street.
The change in the neckline is so i'm
portant that it may have a strong
influence on hats as the season
strengthens. The high collar is ac-
cepted and that in itself suggests a
small hat. The round deeolletage
with deep bertha or a small collar
of precious lace finished with
cameo or old brooch will bring brims
back into fashion. one would think
Such collars and brooches have
changed the coiffure. The smart way
to arrange ones hair is to part it in
middle, bring II down to top of ears
and roll II in small knot at nape of
neck. This fashion was begun last
August in pleasure places. and later it
was taken UP by stagefolk. Now it
has gotten into general society. The
round neckiine, the lace collar and
the big brooch are conspicuous in the
new silhouette.
II is in these changing details that
fashion is important. 1t is well for
every woman to watch them. She
won't be caught mapping.
Copyright, ls23)
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

woman buying a gown. The trade
is passionately absorbed in labels, but
the public Is absorbed in getting
something 1t likes. The talk aout
American designing and French crea-
tiveness goes over its head Hike a
light summer cloud, an aimless bit Of
puff that dissolves on the horizon. II
is a strange thing that this fact is
more apparent at a time when whole.
salers are the dominant buyers in the
French market and modified French
clothes permeate every shop and sell
from fifteen dollars up.
" Y
THERE is no end of straw hats
l. going to where south winds
blow, but taffeta is pressed upon
the world as a popular rival to
other fabrics for midwinter wear in
the snow as on the sands. Few large
shapes have made their appearance,
so we take it for granted that the
small hat will continue it's career
through the spring. Summer will
probably reinstate the sunshade
the sun demands q brim between it
and the eyes. At the moment, how
ever. the small shape rules. It Is not
as small as it was. and something
has changed in its outline. There is
more to it than there was. It has
a veil, it gives glimpses of silver
ribbon, it has a big bow at the back,
it has a crown so large that IL sinks
over the head.
Hats are more ornamental than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

they have been since pre-war days.
ostrich feathers do not float from
the brim, but silver ribbon. exquisite
lace, feather decorations expertly
fashioned, and ribbon in cockades.
in stiffened bows, in swirling wind
mills. are conspicuous.
The kind of taffeta miliners like
is dull in finish and permits a variety
Of curious things to be placed on its
surface. One hat, for instance. has a
diadem of lace in the shape of those
worn by royalty, A fiat edge OF 1t
forms q veil to mask the eyes.
Another taffeta hat that looks like
a huge inverted flower pot Carries n
conspicuous medallion consisting of
an embroidered cameo surrounded by
tight pleatings of ribbon. '.
There are combinations of straw
and taffeta in small shapes SO built
that they eclipse the head and show
only an earlock. Such hats are trim
med with ribbon in any fantastic
form the nilliner devises.
Decoration by pin feathers grows
in Importance. IL was begun three
years ago by dressmakers who used
it as buckles for drapery, as orna-
nents for belts. as an ornament on
satin slippers. Later, the milliners
exploited It in small, important clust-
ers OF decoration. One hat Of black
taffeta worn today has big snowballs
OF green and black pin feathers over
one ear. The wearer looks az IL she
had that side of her head exposed to
the snowballing Of boys in the street.
The Venetian medieval hat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

that isn't common ground for every
lone If you have willingness ia
neighbor. Three meals a day, carpets
shoes. politics. puppies, toothaches
ttempers, banana Feelings, busted tires
the million crowding demands OF
each day will provide a common in
terest and a mutual bond if You Will
stop chasing rainbows.
Stop chasing rainbows-therc, ]
think. lies the solution OF most. OF our
married discomfort. Accept marriage
for the thing 1t is and your married
partner for what he or she may be.
+ You'll note that they promise that
there shall be no marriages in heaven.
Marriage is a partnership by the way.
Sometimes the partnership faiis-al-
ways it disappoints US IL we lean too
heavily on it. But the big plan OF life
goes on just the same-and we will
and JOY and fulfliment IL we co-ordi-
nate ourselves with that plan. but not
Copyright, 1921
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

sleeves are short and its high collar
Is a single strip of the material,
heavily embroidered IN black silk
cord at one end, then wrapped about
the neck like q mufiler, the front end
dropping over the chest. A panel
consisting OF narrow black silk braid
runs the length Of the spine. The
black skirt harmonizss with a black
braiding on the blouse; the soft hat
is black straw with rosettes Of black
and white ribbon at side.
This decoration of the spinal COL
unn, by the way, is exploited by
many designers. They like the idea.
They combine it with pleated dra-
perry down front Of skirt, which ia an
ancient adjustment OF fabric. Orna-
menting the back Of blouse and front
OF skirt, gives the observer a chance
to look at both sides Of a gown.
\ MOTHER black ana white costume
1 \ arranged for pleasure life in
Florida and Georgia consists Of a
taffeta skirt and coat, the latter
looking like slim basque until It
reaches the waist, where 1t flares into
a peplum lined with white. One
white button is at the waist. The
linen blouse has O high collar an
ished with three rufies. and still more
rufnes are put into the jacket sleeves.
The helmet hat OF taffeta has a me-
dailion OF ribbon and embroidery in
front.
Ribbon has saved the day for the
miliiners. They now know what to
do with every hat. 1t is the ace OF
trumps. The revival of this ancient
form OF decoration is tempestuous.
There 10 no. escaping from its virile
influence. Dressmakers use i'm
mense cascades OF ribbon on one hip
and long loops to give side or front
drapery to skirts: milliners cover
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

launched last August continues in
fashion. 1t has stiffened comb run
ming across the top, extending from
ear to ear. In the beginning it was
worn with fifteen century veil Of
lace or silver gauge causually thrown
over II. the points hanging TO should
ers. 1t was made, also. of silver
gauze to be worn with formal after
noon frocks or used as a headdress
for the thcater.
The midseason hats fashioned In
this shape are dull things compared
to the originals, They are built Of
velvet, of taffeta, OF straw and they
have ceased to be sensational. They
are merely demure. d-service hats
ready for emergencies. Thus have
the mighty become hnmbled.
WHATEVER remains to be said Of
w the helmet hat concerns its
popularity. It's repetition does not
stale it's charm Far from avoiding
it. women order three and four con-
trasting colors and fabrics. The
majority OF sport hats are helmets
The trimming varies and the crown
is higher in some than others, but the
one idea runs through all. The lfk-
ing for. lichen green has not de-
creased. That particular shade of q
virle color is delightful in sport
costumery. Against the snow and
against the sands. 1t is suggestive OF
foliage. 1t goes with white and
beige frocks. which is well. for these
two colors grip the imagination of
the designers this season.
A new white gown. by the way, Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14
Paying Damages.

Sometimes an embarrassing situa-
ton arises when q guest does some
real, though unintentional, damage to,
the property of his host or hostess, /.
He feels that he ought to make,
amends, yet he does not know whether
he can 90 this without giving offense. !.
For instance, he may inadvertently h
break some piece OF glass or bric-a-
brac. In driving a friends automobile !.
he may permit some slight damage
to come to the car. He may even for
get to close his bedroom window and
feel responsible for the rainspots on
the wallpaper or window hangings.
Now the only real reason for giving
offense in making an effort to repay.
lies in the awkwardness with which
such an offer is often made. To sug-,
gest badly to pay what the damage
costs is usually the tactless way to-
go about it. In the case of the dam. :
age done to the automobile. even r.
this Ia slight, the guest should inform
the owner of the car concerning the :
damage and then quite positively an
nounce his intention OF settling with
the garage man for the repairs need :
ed. However. IL a mishap occurs to
the automobile that is obviously due
TO the previous condition of the car
this would hardly be necessary.
II the bric-R-brac or glass is OF
trifiing value the incident is usually /.
passed over without suggestion of !.
making amends. If possible the
broken article should be replaced by.
personally buying one to take its :
place. II any damage is done to some .
article that cannot be duplicated
exactly the penitent guest should buy
something that he thinks will take It's "
place. and send it as soon as possible
to his hostess. begging her to forgive .
him his awkwardness.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

every other partnership into which
he had entered. But let love once
come and Immediately he felt that
these little difficulties would be
smoothed away. When they weren't
las of course. they werent-he I'm
mediately blamed it on marriage. He
wasn't mated"'-that was 'the root
Of the trouble"
But that wasn't the root Of the
trouble. The most perfect mating
in the world can't bring happiness
unless you possess the ability to OBJ
tain happiness. mated or minated.
The most imperfect mating cannot
destroy yorr strength and Joy IL you
have the qualities by which life in
general may be conquered, mated or
minated.
The unhealthiness of these decora-
tive articles about marriage lies in
the fact that they lead us to. concen-
trate on love as though it were the
main issue after marriage. 1t isn't.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

the only note of color in the frock.
IT Is copied in canary yellow and pale
blue embroidery, but the copy is not
as effective as the original.
Sport hats are now shown with
biouses, nufiers and Jackets to
match. We have ceased to buy one
separate garment unless we know
whether 1t can be gracefully assem-
bled with others. The designers have
taught woman the folly of putting
money into q hat that does not match
anything else, a coat that has no re-
iation to any gown in the closet, a
blouse that is useless until new
skirt Is chosen. These various gar
ments are now assembled by the
dressmakers. They are often made
by one designer. A woman can go
into shop and buy tho whole cos
tune In one effort. This In especially
helpful in sport costumery, where
much depends upon the proper min.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

hats with il, mako ruches, flowers,
feathers and medallions of it. Some
Of the helmet hats are made of small
ruffies OF taffeta ribbon, black on
one side, mauve, green or gray on
the other. Double-faced ribbon gives
q chance for INFINITE color schemes
Windmill bows of plain or ribbed
ribbon stand out from the back Of
a hat as though they were pushing
a woman along. There are sails of
ribbon standing straight up from a
tiny brim. Ribbon cockades are
copied from those worn by royalty
and footmen since the commencement
of class distinction.
Small hats of wide black satin rib
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

DITH and Bill are divorced.
Grounds? Incompatibility.
IL Couldn't get along. nohow, no
where, no time. Our souls
weren't mated" sighed Edith. I'm
of women for good" snorted Bill.
You're free" announced the Judge.
And that's that.
But is that that" Is incompati-
biiity sufficient ground for divorce?
Now, I'm not going to indulge in a
diRtribe against divorce. But I
would like to hurI nasty adjective
against this soul mating" theory,
and this is my chance. Contempt
rary literature is all gummed up
with illusions about blended souls"
and other romantic phenomena. It
sounds pretty. but I honestly believe
that it's tommy rot, and the most
dangerous sort of propaganda for
youngsters entering matriomony.
don't think that humans were
ever intended to achieve their great
est happiness through blending"
with our selected mate, but rather
by blending with all life and the in
loFeStS OF hi men.
Human characters aren't punches
OF Oolong and Ceylon. They are
ever-changing forces, constantly re-
acting to a million outer stimuli.
constantly amaIgamating with all
life and all experience. If they do
not do this they deteriorate.
:. x x X
EDITH and Bill have failed in mar
- riage, not because they are in
diytdually unsuited TO each other,
but because they have made no
serious effort to At themselves and
their welded partnership into the
larger social program. They were
taught that love was sufficient. They
thought IL would cure all the weak
nesseaD. limitations and unpleasant,
reactions which hampered them be-
fore marriage. It didn't. 1t never.
does. And now they are blaming it
on love and saying they are incom-
patible."
Edith and Bill are not alone in. their
anticipations and lamentations. Such
have been the thoughts of nearly
every lover since the dawn of time.
His whole life. prior to marriage
may have been a failure due to inn
patience, cowardice. dishonesty. silli-
ness, laziness or score of other
weaknesses. He might have wrecked
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

Cling Of garments. As the clothes
which are offered for midwinter
sports will be repeated for street and
country clothes in the spring. neither
time nor money is wasted In buying
them now.
Take black and white costume as
an example of clever assembling Of
several garments. The blouse, of
heavy white crepe de chine, has a
deep girdle buttoned at back; it's
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

fered by a sport shop is of white
crepe de chine. the skirt arranged in
knife-pleated groups. the girdle 1T
ting hips like yoke. the blouse loose
and graceful with surplice opening
down front to show chemisette OF
embroidered muslin. the peasant
sleeves gathered into a low armhole.
deliberately embroidered in red and
black wooden threads. This embroid-
cry extends over the shoulders and is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

bon that fold fiat and go into an en-
velope remain in fashion They ex-
tend far out at the sides and are
strikingly suggestive OF the cooked
hats men carried under their arms
when wigs were too enormous to be
crushed by covering.
The recrudescence of Venetian
renaissance costumery revived the
tricorne hat Of satin and metal cloth
with a n1asque veil. This season the
veil appears on hats that are not even
poor relations to Venetian finery or to
any class of society under the doges.
Nose wells that were considered bit
too capricious and coquettish when
first worn in America are now COM
monplace. They are attached to hats
sold on bargain counters at small
prices. Despite their constant repe-
tition through all strata of millinery
they remain smart and fashionable.
They may be two inches wide and
serve as a. masque, they may be FIVE
inches wide and serve as drapery.
None OF them is long enough to
throw back over the hat. none is
frightened under the chin. The most
fashionable expression of the Vene-
tian veil is in theVenetian manner as
a masque. but designers are too eager
in their exploitation Of ii TO limit its
appearance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

THIS HAT FOR THE SOUTH, BLACK STRAW WITH IRRECU.
LAR BRIM OF BLACK SATIN, IS TRIMMED WITH ROSETTES
OF RIBBON THE BLOUSE IS OF WHITE CREPE WITH
HIGH COLLAR THAT WRAPS AROUND THE NECK LIKE
MUFFLER AND is EMBROIDERED IN BLACK BRAID.
PANEL OF NARROW BLACK BRAID OUTLINES THE SPINE
THE BELT FASTENS IN THE BACK, FRONT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14
1ats Have Become Conspicuous in Mdwinter Millinery

Shapes Have Made HatW
Continue Its Career
Silver Ribbon Have Big
Exquisite Lace Feather Decorations and Ribbon
spoSpot Hats Shown With
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

MOI r1AST3Eue GAS a
fuGATY rAiD
UITH FOODS TOP EVERY
HOUR,
HER QUNRiNG HEART,
SO f1AUBELLE SAID,
Was FRAGILE As a
1IOGER.
AND 50 IN LEDLoCk
THRICE SIZE TRIED
TO FIND AeP IDEAL MATE,
but ONE BY ONE she
SADLY GAVE
EACH LOVING SJ6if4
Tt1E GATE .:,s..< !.
HE TpUTA is TAaT =.
DEAR f1AUBeLLE GOULD
HAVE Slammed THIS 49,.
SAD SUSPENSE
~ GIVING UP Her. -;
iDeAL SEARCH
Ard USING COMMON !.
SENSE. sss,+..,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1923-01-14

THERE is separate square veil of
J. tuile or net embroidered in lace
which is thrown over a helmet or
tiara hat when these were launched
they were considered too extreme for
any but those who walk in the lime
light. but like all fashions, they are
accepted through familiarity.
The oriental veil drawn up the face
at the sides, leaving the eyes uncov-
cred. is worn by a few women. but it
The Monmouth inquirer. [volume] (Freehold, N.J.) 1865-1933, 1923-11-08
FOREIGN

Stresemann reported lie, German
Socialists postpone action On their
ultimatum.
London sees doom of conference in
Poincare's amendment of note to
United States, but may accept it to
prove good faith to Washington.
American immigration authorities
in Belgium have grown unusually
wary, according to the Belgian police,
as the result of the discovery of an
alleged huge white slave plot to ship
German girls to America. 1t is said
that more than 500 girls from Berlin
have been sent to America via Bel
gian ports.
British accept French reservations
for PREPARATION conference and prepare
for formal call.
All Britain grieves over death of
Andrew Bonar Law, former Premier.
Saxon Socialists form new Cabinet
and meet Berlin's demands to elm
mate Communists.
Stresemann's demand that Bavaria
GUST Gen. Won Lossow unites all fac
lions in support of Won Kahr Govern
ment.
The British Imperial Conference
will not insist on actual twelve-mile
limit for search of ships at sea for
liquor.
Saxon Cabinet yields to demand OF
Berlin, vacates it's quarters
Bavaria masses troops on frontier
as Germany, by force. Gusts Saxon
Premier and Cabinet.
British housewives told by Minister
of Labor Committee how to get SER
wants.
! Fascist ready to follow Mussolini in
new march, further than Rome, if
necessary.
| 1t became known that both Ameri-
can and English interests are now
represented in Berlin by special agents
negotiating for international loans to
] Germany.
The Monmouth inquirer. [volume] (Freehold, N.J.) 1865-1933, 1923-11-08

SPORTING


Schaefer and Hagenlacher win
matches in championship billiard
tournament.
Hoppe comes from behind to defeat
Horemans, 500 to 435, after latter
makes run of 241 in championship
billiard tourney in New York.
Sam Crane, chairman of the benefit
committee which. sponsored the ball
game at the Polo Grounds, New York,
to provide fund for Jim Mutrie and
John B. Day, has turned in report
showing that a total of S4,986.S8 was
realized by receipts and contributions.
In the United States there are now
over 100000 between the ages Of fif-
teen and twenty-three playing foot
ball
]. S. Cosden's Dan 4th wins $4,000
steeplechase at Pimlico.
Cochran beats Cont in continuation
of billiard tournament for 1872 cham.
pionship.
New York Boxing Commission VIII
no longer vacate titles in imposing
punishment on worlds champions
America may draw upon some of its
athletic talent abroad in the quest for
Olympic honors at Paris next year,
especially for the winter sports.
The Chicago Cubs will make no fur
Their attempts to arrange deal for
Rogers Hornsby, star second baseman
of the ST. Louis Cardinals, and 1928
batting champion of the National
League.
Pancho Villa and Carl Tremaine
matched for bout at Madison Square
Garden.
Bluenose, Canadian defender of in
ternational fshermen's trophy, de-
feated American challenger, Columbia,
of Gloucester, Mass, in first race Of
series off Halifax.
International golf match between
Gene Sarazen and Arthur Havers, the
British open champion, is called off.
Mrs. Mallory not to represent this
country in Olympic lawn tennis tour
ney.
Stopped after two and one-half
hours by order of State Athletic Com
mission, the wrestling bout between
Zbyszko and Plestina was called draw
at list Regiment Armorv, New York
City