Evening star., 1923-06-24

First, there was a fight with our
black soldier slaves, who had be-
come hopelessly unruly. Having been
only remarkable for their absence
when there was any real danger, they
now devoted their time to eating,
sleeping and talking of their prowess.
We, therefore, decided to send them
back to Jalo by the main caravan
route and go on ourselves to Jagha-
bub. AS it necessitated at least
twelve days without water--some 500
kilometers-it is rarelv attempted ex-
cept by very large, well equipped
caravans, which can afford to lose a
few camels by the way, or by the
Senussi family, which can send cam
els laden with water on ahead to
fill some reservoirs especially placed
for the purpose. ~ r.. -.s;.s
We had seen the dangers of trav-
cling with moderately large and
inefficient retinue, so we now deter
mined to try the other extreme. We
proposed to take with US only Mo-
hammed and Yusuf, guide and per-
haps a camel man. We should have to
take four camels for water alone and
another two at least for fodder be-
fore we could think of luggage and
provisions. The latter were easy,
since 1t was no use providing for
more than seventeen days at the
by that time the traveller were not
safely in Jaghabub he would be dead,
for there were no wells on the route
after leaving Zakar, three days from
Hawawiri. Altogether 1t would be
an exciting journey. Concerning the
Jaghabub route, tho most encour-
aging sentence was generally, IF
or to hades" uttered In a tone that
left no doubt as to which was the
more probable!
VXrE had secured the only guide in
w the place, Suleiman, and we
had ascertained that he really had
done the journey four years before
and that previous to that he had done
L
old man, bent and gray, of few words.
OF our animals the best had all
foaled, and only the young, unreli-
able nagas (femaies), three years old,
and a couple of ancient camels were
left, besides one caricature and va
rious creatures halt and lame, who
looked as IL they were dancing all
the time, because they had cut feet!
However, we had become completely
fatalistic. We proposed to take vast
stores of water and put the rest of
our trust in Allah.
We also proposed to leave Kufara
as soon as possible. Firstly, because
our hosts were so prodfgious in their
hospitality that we could not bear to
take advantage Of 1t longer than was
absolutely necessary for our topo-
graphical work. Secondly, because,
though what may be called the party
directly responsible to the govern
nent was very kindly disposed to-
ward the guests Of the rulers, the
ancient and old-fashioned ekhwan
(brethren) held aloof They would
not believe that any strangers could
have been given permission to pene-
trate their guarded privacy. They
were torn between their desire to
do honor to the Sayeds and their hor-
ror of diverging hairs breadth from
immemorial custom
Among the Zouias (wild tribesmen)
there were now two factions. Many
had been infected by the stories Of
the Bazama family and AbdulIah, but
a small party had gradually formed
in our favor under the leadership of
Suleiman Blu Matar
There were always, however, cur,
rents and scross-currents, under the
surface which sometimes rippled into
open suspicion. Also there had been
many very persistent. inquiries on, the
part OF the most lawiessr elements as
to the exact date of our departure and
our proposed route. IT was known
that the soldiers would mot be
travelling with US, so we should be an
easy prey IL the tribesmen wanted to
play their last card. We therefore
spread the rumor that we should re-
main at least a fortnight longer at
Tai and privately began to make
preparations for another flight, this
time aided and abetted by the
kaimakaan (governor). 49,
. The day. Of hpal prepara*ion ended