The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1923-06-15
BY c. 6. G.


carded because they are "out of
STYLE" or the covering is either worn
out or not in harmony with the fur
uishings of room. A little cloth, a
little time and much patience will
transform them into serviceable and
attractive pieces of furniture. Ere
quently, projecting parts of chair
or sofa may be removed when the
structural lines are good. The mid
Victorian black walnut furniture was
well made, tho not ornate. The scroll
gew-gaws at the top of chairs or
sofas can be taken off, and when the
piece is slip-covered no one is the
wiser of the unfinished wood under
meath. Much old and unattractive
furniture can be transformed in this
way.
The making of slip-eovers is not
as difficult as it seems. 1t is pains
taking work, but the labor is well
rewarded in the end. | would advise
anyone to start in ON a small piece of
furniture-an arm chair for instance
The bulliness of the material is the
chief difficulty, and with experience
this awkwardness is overcome.
Plan the work as you would in cut
ting dress. A pattern of the chair
may be made out of wrsppirg paper
or tissue paper, by laying the paper
on the chair in sections and cutting
the pattern on the chair. This is not
absolutely necessary as the material
can be cut directly on the chair; il
is advisable to do it, however, as it
prevents waste of material Gener-
ally speaking there will be the fol-
lowing big pieces to be cut out; one
piece each for the inside back, seat,
and outside back and two pieces for
the inside arms and outside arms.
There will be smaller pieces depend
ing on the shape of the chair. The one
in the illustration would require two
small pieces for the front ends of the
arms, a narrow straight piece for
around the seat, and straight pieces
sewed together to make the plated
ruffle.
After the pieces are cut as nearly
exact as possible, with at least an
inch allowed for variation and
seams, they should be placed on the
chair, wrong side out and pinned to
fit the chair. After the pieces are
pinned together, remove them and
haste. This work may be done in
sections tho eventually the whole
will have to be joined together. The
ruffle is the last part to go on, after
the slip-cover proper is completed.
Always allow enough material to be
tucked into the creases where there
joining of the chair parts ,as the
crease between the back and the seat
and the back and the arms. This
allows for the spring of the chair,
prevents tearing and slipping. Two
inches is plenty to allow for this.
After the material is basted, it
should be tried on the chair right
side out. Correct any misfit and
then stitch ON the machine.
Piping always adds to the difficult
ty, and should not be attempted by
the amateur. except around the
boxing as in the illpstration. This
can be done on the right side and is
mot difficult. A plain contrasting
color may be used or bias folds of
the same material as the cover.
In the Ladies' Home Journal for
June there is very good article on
making slip covers. The diagram
showing the various parts of the
pattern will clarity these and their
directions, and would be of material
help to anyone about to undertake
the work.
There are many materials that
may be used for slip-covers; Gre
tonne, chintz. percaie, sateen, silk,
poplin, linen and calico. Cotton ma
terials muss lsss than linen and are
just as serviceable and durable, be-
side being easier to work with.
have used the old fashioned calico
most successfully. 1t can be bought
for less than twenty cents yard,
holds its color well and is as effect
i've and economical as any material
on the market. 1t seems rather thin
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