Evening star., 1923-02-25
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.


" HERE was a wedding of i'm
portance in New York the
other day No observer or
dress could fail to realize that
hero was costumery to blaze q path
to a new kind OF wedding fnery'
Whatever was worn was 4 break
from tradition. Details had been
elaborated with infinite care the
pageantry OF the wedding party was
g thing OF ioveiiness. II was like a
| stage production behind which art
lists costumers and n.ll!ners had
worked tIreiessly.
The reception which followed the
ceremony gave itself pleasant VIC
torian airs. It departed sharply from
the modern method, shake-hRnds-,
quick with the bride. look at-pres-
ents, say good bye. ail-for-the-car. At
this reception the bride and groom
opened the dance, practice which
the south kept going after the rest
OF the country yielded TO the quick
lunch social manner.
Here vas an Interesting episode:
When the bride advanced to the
middle OF the room to dance the maid
OF honor detached from her shoulders
the court train OF silver lace. This
lert her IA a short-skirted lace frock
which gave freedom.
Another fact OF interest was that
she omitted u veil over the face. It
was decided that the duty Of her
bridesmaid was 20 detsch the train
and not the veil. which was against
ancient custom. Evidently the face
veil has gone with the swallow-tail
coat. Mr.. Berry Wall. who was the
king OF dudes IN the Mex York Of
his generation, returned TO this
country the other day and exclaimed
Where men wear dinner Jackets and
rhe swaIIo,r-tail IS forgotten
IT'S easy to put down 20 the var
i the shelving Of the full dress suit
~ men, except for d ball IN a private
house and performance at the
opera Informal evening attire came
tradition, which vas founded on
hind the custom OF the bride wearing
:. face Veil until her marriage vows
, we're repeated. Throwing aside this
symbol is significant. 1t was pretty
tradition this chat Ir1aidenhood went
TO the marriage altar with bowed
head and covered face. that wifehood
returned from the altar with lifted
head and uncovered face. Brides now
20 to the altar with head uplifted,
uncovered face. eyes triumphant.
They return from? the altar, laughing
and bowling right and left to guests.
Youth has taken the bride Of life
N It's mouth and run away from ira
dltion. Tt must be served. There's
no use to cavi,. Youth constantly
prepares a new &reed for a new
world. soon enough IL becomes
ancient tradition. We forget there
was aught else. Our particular So
c,al phase appears permanent.
The traditional marriage frook OF
ivory satin has gone by the board
along with other ceremonial customs.
: White velvet replaced II last year.
Now comes lace. This particular
bride, whose wedding was a pageant.
wore a frocz OF thin cream lace with
lavish embroidery OF fire pearls Thus
ws return to medieval custom. In
, ancient days queens and their follow
ers wore marriage gowns OF silver
cloth embroidered with seed pears.
Elizabeth OF England had her cere-
rnonial frocizs covered with this par
ticular kind Of ueedlework. In a
niche Of Westminster Abbey dark.
mysterious place entered by a c.rcu-
lar staircase and tipping Of the ver-
ger, there Is q funeral efflgy OF Queen
Elizabeth inclosed IN glass. showing
one Of these sumptuous robes with
SIS intricate and expensive method OF
Tdecoration Like the clothes OF Tu-
tankhamen's queen. .t would fail to
dust II the historic glass were open
ed.
When the French dressmakers were
inspired to copy medieval gowns.
they revived this ancient elaboration
OF lace and brocade. The patterning
Of the latter was outlined with col
ored crystals. with rhinestones and
pearls The patteraing OF lace was
followed with fine silver thread. The
embroidery Of pearls on lace is a
newer adaptation os a medieval Gus