davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-10-14

the home is often only one room and
a kitchen, and the whole family some
how crowds in For instance, / was
shown the outside OF a tenement be-
longing to a big cotton factory. 1t
was a building of three stories, OF
considerable size. The manager said
IL contained accommodations for 5000
people, and when I asked how many
rooms were allowed each family he
answered that some had one room
and a kitchen and others two rooms
and a kitchen. 1 suggested that /
might go through the building. He
said he would be glad to take me.
but somehow he forgot. A room and
a kitchen for q whole family would
hardly satisfy one of our American
spinners, even though the apartment
has running water, which is con-
sidered extraordinary in this part of
Poland
The cotton mills show how rapidly
Lodz Is coming back. The new fac
tories are among the largest. best
equipped and most thoroughly or
ganized on the continent They are
now working three-quarters of a mil
lion spindles and more than twelve
thousand looms. This is much less
than they had before the war, but
the Germans did all they could to de-
stroy the industry. l visited one mill
from which 5000 copper rollers, 40.-
600 bales of cotton and 10000, 900
yards of goods were taken away.
That plant Is known as the Poznanski
Mill. 1t is now working at 80 per
cent of it's pre-war capacity. 1t has
| $4,000 spindles and in one room there
| are 1000 looms. Standing in it, l
seemed to be in a forest of belts, a
wilderness of moving machinery. The
din was so great that I could not
| make the guide hear me.
The Poznanski Mill has it's own
| water works. its own gas and cleo
tric plants. and it's own fire depart
ment. Before leaving, the director
sent in a false alarm to show me the
efficiency of the f1remen. He touched
J the button on the fire box on the side
of building and within forty seconds
by my watch there was score on
the spot. and within one minute more
they had connected the hose to the
hydrant and were spraying the mill
supposed to be blazing. The private
fire department of the plant consists
of flfty-two men, twelve wagons, and
two modern fire engines. After a
blast from a bugle announced that
| the FIRE was extinguished the captain
saluted us and the men marched off
in military order.
\ " X
DEFoRE coming to Lodz ! made a
- trip through the coal and iron
region of Polish Silesia, which, by the
| plebiscite. was taken from Germany.
| My guide was prince connected with
the foreign office. His name Is
Georges de Ciechanowiecki. I doubt
whether you can pronounce 1t. but in
! my conversations I came very close
to 1t by calling him prince Checks
| and-whisky." and as he is good fell
low he did not object. We went first
by rail from Warsaw to Kattowitz,
distance of four hundred miles, The
fare was less than So. and my Sleep
ing compartment cost just 35 cents.
Evening star., 1923-10-14
BY FRANK G. CARPENTER.
TOM Poland


n IMAGINE a dreary plain extending
on and on in every direction
Plant in it's midst a dreary city
as big as Cincinnati or Pitts
burgh. Let the city have one thou
sand smokestacks rising high over
the houses. and let its buildings run
for three miles along two narrow
streets paved with cobbles. Put short
cross-streets here and there and you
have the somber outlines of Lodz, the
great textile center of Poland
A closer view shows mighty fac
tories surrounding each smokestack,
masses Of brick and glass that seem
to wall In the gloom, making the
view more dreary than ever. NOW
walk through the main street and
make notes OF the people. They Mt
their surroundings. The town Is com
posed of factory workers and 1t seems
to be Poverty's Kitchen. A large part
of the population consists of Israel
ties who go about with unshaven
faces, a long lock hanging down on
each side of the cheek from their
round, visorless caps. These Jews
wear black coats which are buttoned
tight to the throat and fall almost
to the feet; the long gabardines
which have been their costume from
time immemorial.
Stop moment and watch the
traffic as 1t moves through the
streets. 1t is continuous and the
stream goes on and on. There are
quaint covered wagons driven by
ragged peasants in from the country,
droshkies without number, and un-
gainly carts hauling huge bales of
cotton and cloth. The horses have
high wooden bows over their necks,
and every aspect is Russian. There
are also carts pulled by men, har-
messed to the front. and showed along
by women walking behind. There
are men and women carrying on their
backs great loads which are some
Evening star., 1923-10-14

times held on by a strap around the
forehead. The automobile and motor
trucks are conspicuous by their abb
sence. Man-power and horsepower
do most of the work. There is but
little Ioafing and every one seems on
the go.
Lodz has been called the Polish
Manchester. after the great cotton
weaving center of England. Before
the war 1t had 400 mills, and it's
population was about 100000. The
mills had more than 100000 work
men, and the cottons and woolens
which they manufactured were
shipped all over Russia and to the
lands of the Balkans.
Lodz was created by Russia. When
Boston was a baby it had no exist
ence. and 1t sprang into being only
at the command Of the czar. It was
some time after Napoleon was over
thrown that Alexander ] started the
factories by offering grants of forests
and lands to the German weavers il
they would come here and work at
their looms. They came by the thou
sands, and high protective tariffs
aided in establishing the industry.
x X X !:
THE story of Lodz is practically the
l. same as that of Lyons In France.
Lyons had no silk industry to speak
Of until Francis l sent out word to
the weavers of Europe that If they
would settle in France he would give
them free lodgings, let them live
without taxes, and wear swords,
which was then privilege given only
to the mobiles. This brought in many
skilled workmen from Venice. They
firat made the brocaded yelvets IA
nous in Italy, and then began to
weave the light, beautiful silk for
which, since then, France has been
noted. The French invented new de-
signs and Lyons soon led the world
in such manufactures.
When the war broke, Poland was
making woolens and cottons to the
Evening star., 1923-10-14

Descat hat in fashion. Goodness
knows, the trade needn't make an
effort in that direction. There should
be strong pull in the opposite di
rection.
The plain black felt helmet first
felt the pressure of the splendid veil.
1t is gold and black lace thrown over
the hat to hang to whatever length
suggested, the shorter the better on
some faces. The shop windows now
carry such hats. They are q curious
combination of simplicity and or
nateness. There is something in
congruous In throwing gold
embroidered Spanish lace veil over an
English piece of felt intended to wear
on the moors or shooting. Yet the
fashion goes. It is attractive. 1t
redeems the helmet if one wants it
redeemed.
There is visored helmet OF black
Evening star., 1923-10-14
Labor Mills and Polish
Pray.

The distance from Kattowitz to Ber-
lin Is about the same as to Warsaw
and the fare is still cheaper.
If Lodz is the Manchester OF Poland.
Kattowitz Is the Pittsburgh. It lies
so close to Germany that with
modern rife one could shoot over the
boundary and SO near Czechoslovakia
that an ordinary big gun would send
a cannon ball there. 1t is the chief
city of a little territory containing
about twenty square miles, which is
one of the worlds treasure vaults. It
has mines of coal, zinc, iron, silver
and lead, and the coal will make coke
/ and steam.
AS we came into Kattowitz we rode
| for miles with. smokestacks In sight,
passing many plants devoted to the
production OF steel, zinc and lead
| The coal mines number fifty and in
| them alone 900 men are employed.
/ There are even more in the factories
and foundries. and just now both are
humming with work.
| This part of Poland was developed
| by the Germans. and almost every
thing connected with the rolling mills.
! steel plants and mines was operated
on a high grade of efficiency. The
capital was German and so were the
managers. Today the French have
| invested largely in the mills. but, as
most of the plants are owned by stock
companies, it is difficult to say to just
| whom they belong. The government
has some large properties, including
coal mines and works for the reduc-
| ton of silver and lead. Immediately
after the plebiscite there were some
| labor truobies. The Germans COM
| mitted outrages on the Poles, and the
iPoles on the Germans; but now every
| thing has gone back to normal and
international friction has almost dis
appeared.
| The amount of manufacturing is
! rapidly increasing. Three shifts are
| employed and many of the plants
work day and night, and even on Sum-
days. The wages paid are about one
third more than at Lodz, and the
| hours are the same with one-half
hour off in the morning for rest and
lunch.
| About the same rent and living con-
ditions obtain. The average dwelling
| of a workman consists of two rooms
/ and kitchen, and at the present low
rate of exchange the rent is about
3 cents per month. The families are
usually large, and all sleep in the
little room outside the kitchen.
| " X n X
THE people have plenty to eat and
J. I venture that at present they
are far better off than the Germans
of the same class. The working mans
dinner Is usually soup, meat and po-
tatoes, with often a salad. His break
fast on rising Is coffee. bread and
butter and meat, and he takes a lunch
of bread. butter and sausage with
him for the half-hour recess. He goes
to the mill at 6 o'clock In the morn
| ing, eats his lunch about 10, and
closes the work day at pm, or a
little thereafter, When he gets home
he has dinner, and along in the eve
ming, has tea or coffee with what is
left over from the big meal. He has
Evening star., 1923-10-14

also the small sable and the choker
collarFsof seal or ermine or chin
chilia. The milliners take the cue
and attach scarfs to the hat to carry
out some part of its decoration. 1t
may be merely a suggestion of a
muffier, an outline, made of brightly
printed crepe or embroidered lace. %
There's a smart beret of black vel
vet with headband embroidered in
gold, Chinese fashion, ending in two
important tabs over one ear; from
these tabs drops a scarf of the gold
and black. 1t is thrown once about
the neck IL one wishes, or 1t is per-
mitted to drop over the frock.
Another beret of black hatters
plush, fabric of fashion this sea-
son. has its wide, high crown en-
circled by narrow band Of printed
Indian crepe, ending in a bunch of
fur tails over one ear and long
Evening star., 1923-10-14

of the Baltic. The Poles are snug
are exporting them to South America.
They import wool from Argentina
and send back cloth made Of the wool
to Buenos Aires. / am told that Po-
land has now almost as many fac
tories working as before the war,
although the output is less on ac-
count of the eight-hour day which
has been established.
During my stay here 1 have gone
through some of the larger mills.
The first j visited was that OF the
Bennich Brothers, which makes cloth
/ for overcoatings, ladies' dress goods,
travelling rugs and mems clothing of
various kinds. 1t. is devoted to
woolens and 1t has been noted for
| generations for its fine goods.
j went through the mill with
Charles Bennich, one Of the owners
and was shown every department
and it's operation. Before the war II
| employed $4,000 workmen. 1t has now
| only 900 but its efficiency has been
increased by the new machinery. ]
I went through rooms filled with tho
| latest CT the new models OF looms OF
| all kinds, and was told that some had
| doubled the efficiency of the old. In
| one place a single employe was man.
| aging twelve machines and in an
! other one man controlled twenty four
| The machines came from Germany
and they are nearly all automatic.
| are nearly al lautomatfc
i was irnnrassad with al
| and sanitary conditions of this fac
| tory. Windows are everywhere, the
| walls are painted white, and there is
| plenty of light and air. Indeed, it is
| hard for one to realize that he is or
| the edge of Russia.
NOW and then stopped and talked
with the laborers. The men look
much the same as those in our woolen
| mills, save that every one has a mus.
tache, which is sometimes ferocious
Many Of the employees are women and
! girls and now ard then I saw one
| with a baby Most Of the women
have handkerchiefs around their
heads and nearly all are barefooted
and barelegged. I notice that some
Of the girls are 1atfooted, They
made me think of the darkies song:
"And de hollow OBJ her foot make:
| a hole in de groun'.''
| Asking as to wages, 1 was tolt
| that common laborers get about :
| cents an hour and that skilled work.
men receive from 4 to cents De,
hour at the present rates of exchange
asked the manager how a mar
could live on such wages. He replied
that they were really as high as those
Of other countries because the fooG
Is so cheap and the rents are so low
He thought their conditions were
| equal to those of the United States
| This statement, however, must be
taken with some grains of salt.
doubt whether our American work.
| men would be satisfied with the black
| bread used here in Poland. 1t costs
| only one cent per loaf, but 1t would
| not sell at all in the United States
Some of the laborers pay less thar
] / cent week for their homes, but
Evening star., 1923-10-14

velvet which carries a promise with
it. suggesting what will be done with
the conventional shape before the
snow comes. 1t has a high crown,
of course. sioping back from the fore-
head, the front made gay with q
massed wreath of vari-colored flowers
running to point beyond the ears.
Over this wreath is a veil of black
lace that shields the eyes In the
Venetian fashion. then turns into
streamers at hack, one longer than
the other. Both are banded with
black velvet ribbon. There's a deal
of coquetry in this helmet, and its
difficult features have been overcome
with artistry.
The fashion of the hour is to wear
a scarf about the bare neck. It Is a
part of the incoming fashion for
high necks. The furriers put for
ward foxes and fiat pieces of fur,
Evening star., 1923-10-14

thin streamer that is weighted by
the fur. The crepe, by the way, is
in the reddish brown tones with
giimpses of yellow that Chanel of
Paris likes. 1t has superseded the
Egyptian designs, and Is preferred
to the Chinese by women who can
not stand large flguration. There is
a wonderful day coat in 1t, built by
Chanel for American trade. The
body is slimly cut to wrap across
the figure, there's a longe cape at
back gathered to q dull brown crepe
Evening star., 1923-10-14

T o select good cheese requires
degree of experience attained
only after much study and
long practice, but here are a
few facts that will help. In the first
place, do not make the mistake Of
judging cheese solely by its color, for
color has very little to do with its
quality. A deep yellow is produced
by the addition OF coal tar or other
coloring matter, and does not indi-
cate rich cheese. Texture, on the
other hand, is the best indication Of
quality. Good cheese cuts grainly.
rather than waxy, is reasonably solid,
and not too greasy. Crumbly cheese
is likely to be acid. When cheese is
new it is mild in flavor. but when
we'll ripened it develops a sharper
and stronger taste. There is no
scientific reason for the statement
that strong cheese has undergone
putrefaction.
4 fish may be a cold-blooded GUS
toner, but you can judge him If you
know how to look him in the eye.
No housewife need be persuaded into
buying thawed-out frozen fish when
she has asked for fresh" il she
knows how to make this test. Fresh
fish have eyes that are bright, black
and clear as glass. The eyes of a
stale fish are dull and grayish. Fresh
fish have eyes that are full and pro-
truding. while the eyes of stale fish
are sunken. There are other tests
you can apply. The gills should be
a bright red. Fresh fish have firm.
elastic flesh. if pressed slightly with
the finger, the flesh will spring back
into shape with considerable re-
siliency as soon as the pressure is re-
moved. The flesh of stale fish 1!
Evening star., 1923-10-14

black face veil. as though the Gre
ator were rather ashamed of depart
ing from the conventional ribbon
band or shaving brush ornament.
Wells with color are not considered.
Gold embroidery Is correct if con-
trast 10 black is desired. The work
ends there. When wells are put on
metal turbans, silk net Is used, usu-
ally without a design. On one tar
nished silver turban Of high dignity
there is a brown veil used to dull the
CLEAN and form a Russian arch
crown. Any matron could wear this
hat
The attempt to reinstate the large
hat starts with the Cavalier shape,
which is su" ,iently conspicuous in
size to please those to whom the
small hat is anathema. But it does
not solve the problem, as it is rather
grand in its manner and cannot be
Evening star., 1923-10-14

yoke and a high fur collar. It's all
kinds of O costume In one.
~ ~
THERE'S further work on the SIM
l. pie cloche to give one woman's
head different appearance from her
neighbor's head In the use OF Chinese
lacquer ribbon for careless scallops
around the crown. This trick gives
color for one thing; also. 1t breaks
the height required of fashionable
crowns. Whenever such ribbon deco
ration is used, It is shielded by a
Evening star., 1923-10-14

HICH-CROWNED HAT OF SOFT
BLACK FELT ENTIRELY GOV.
Erred WITH A BLACK LACE
VEIL SHOWING FIGURES FLAT
LY EMBROIDERED in BRIGHT
GOLD. THE VEIL EXTENDS
OVER EACH EAR IN IMITA.
TION OF THE DUTCH EAR
TABS WHICH APPEAR ON THE
NEW FRENCH HATS.
Evening star., 1923-10-14

SMALL BLACK FELT HAT, AL
MOST BRIMLESS, WITH HIGH.
POINTED CROWN TRIMMED
WITH LACQUER RED RIBBON
IN CONVENTIONAL DESIGN
ABOVE THE EDGE. A VEIL OF
BLACK LACE EMBROIDERED
IN RED IS THROWN OVER THE
HAT, CARELESSLY CAUGHT AT
TOP OF CROWN.
Evening star., 1923-10-14

for part of the majority instead OF
a segment Of the minority.
x X x X
THE sudden appearance of the dec
l. orative veil attached to the he'll
met gladdened the eye. 1t gave one
a leaping impuse to conf1ne ones
millinery to the cloche and be done
with experiment and speculation in
other shapes. 1t was the sop thrown
out by the milliners to the unwary,
although it may have been a shrewd
trade trick to keep the universal
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1923-01-09

younger children went to Waterville
Monday at noon to visit with her
people who live in that city.
Mrs. Wilder Varney, who has been
the guest for some weeks of her mo-
ther.' Mrs. Byron Robinson and bro
Their, Frank Robinson. at their home
in Cornville, was in town Monday
and departed on the noon train for
her home in Maiden, Mass.
Mr.. and Mrs. w. J. Holway of The
Forks was in town Monday afternoon
and will return today, Tuesday.
Miss Myrtice Miller, r. N. of the
Central Maine General Hospital, was
in town for a few hours Monday.
Mr.. and Mrs. Win Wescott of the
Athens road have received box OF
delicious figs from Mrs. Emma Rand
and son. Orman, from Arizona. Mrs.
Rand aM son formerly resided in
Skowhegtn and We're neighbors of
Mr.. and Mrs. Wescott.
Mrs. Warren Brown and son. Har-
old, of Needham, Mass, are guests
in town, at the home of Father La
CroiX on Norridgewocke avenue. Mrs
Brown came to Waterville bringing
the remains of Mr.. Brown, Saturday.
The annual meetings of the Som
erset Pomona Grange will be held
with the Skowhegan Grange and will
be two days meeting, converting this
(Tuesday) forenoon.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1923-01-09
First Service of Week of PRAYER

The first service of the united
service to be held by the Centenary
Methodist church, the Federated and
the Bethany churches during the
week OF prayer was held on Sunday
evening in the auditorium of the
Federated church. The pastor the
Rev. George l.. Thurlow, presided
and read the Scripture. Prayer was
offered by the Rev. Herbert l.. Mich
OILS, pastor of the Methodist church.
and the sermon was delivered by the
Rev. George Merriam of the Beth
any Baptist church, who spoke of
the place OF prayer in the life and
work of the community. and also on
the tasks ahead of the ministers and
the members of their church. Mr..
Merriam expressed the wish that the
services of this week of prayer
might mean more to the community
than has any such services formerly
held here. The church organist,
Mrs. Mildred w. Weston. presided at
the organ. The soloists were Pro-
fessor Ralph w. Leighton and Ar
thur Plummer and the church choir
sang. The ushers were Philo Stew
ard and Willis f.. Porter. The serv-
ice was one, of help and inspiration
for all attending. The second meet
ing in the week of prayer series will
be held this CTuesday) evening in
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1923-01-09
Farmers Censured
For Neglecting
Their Fields

Stockholm, Dec. 2O.-In Sweden a
farmer can be reprimanded by the
governor of a province for abusing
mother earth" Over loo cases of
abusing farm land by neglecting to
cultivate it properly have been dealt
with during the last four years.
There has been some discussion
as to definitions by those charged
with determining when a farmer
should be censured for neglect of his
land, but the Swedish Cultivation
Extension Committee has come to
the conclusion that corrective meas
ures are necessary where land was
found OvergrOwn with weeds, where
a field yielded notably less than the
neighboring fields, where the annual
production decreased. or where grain
had been disposed of unfinished. OF
the LIT cases considered, 1923 had
to be brought to the attention of
provincial governors before improve
ment was effected.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1923-01-09
France Seeks
Restoration of
Russian Trade

Moscow, Dec. 8.-The draft of a
proposed Franco Russian Trade and
Industrial Bureau, which represents
the first attempt on the part of
French industrial circles to restore
commercial relations between the
two countries. has been received by
the Soviet Supreme Economic Coun-
Gil.
In announcing receipt of the draft
the council observes that the scheme
deserves special attention, and SAYS
the establishment of such a bureau
is desirable from the Soviet point
of view.
In this connection 1t is announced
also that group of French mer-
chants has proposed an exchange Of
goods between Marseilles and Petro-
grad. The French business men say
they are eager to export agricultural
machinery. seeds, oil, fats, textiles
and clothing to Russia and in ex-
change import into France wool.
hides, leather, silk, oak timber and
manganese
Information reached 1the Petrograd
Chamber of Commerce recently that
the Paris Chamber of Commerce had
passed resolution in favor of i'm
mediate resumption of business with
Soviet Russia.
The italian chambers of commerce
have resolved to maintain constant
contact with Russia by means of
correspondence with the Petrosrad
chamber OF Commerce.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1923-01-09
WASHINGTON

NORTH-Mr. and Mrs. m. w.
Lenfest started for Massachusetts,
one day last week, where they will
visit relatives for few days. when
Mrs. Lenfest will go to Wakefield,
Mass. to take care of sick relative
for the rest Of the winter. while Mr..
Lenfest will proceed to New York,
where he will stop for the. rest OF
the winter, carpentering for a
cousin.
Mr.. and Mrs. Roy Lenfest have
moved from their home in South
Liberty to the home of hi father
here. to care for the place and stock
while he is away.
Mr.. and Mrs. Melvin Bartlett of