, 1923-09-02

when women look over their re.
NEpective wardrobes and attempt to
do a little r~enovating. a little max
UNCOVER of garments that have seer
a good deal of wear, or which are
in too good a condition to be cast
inside altogether. says Elite Styles.
Frequently the advice of the dress.
maker is sought regarding the best
way to combine the old materials
with new. or tho best method OF
converting tho dress. suit or cloak
of last year into a semblance of re-
Iationship to the latest modes. 1t
fs not always an cas- task and the
busy dressmaker sometimes declines
to lend her precious time to this
reclamation affair. On the other
hand. there + seamstresses and
amateur dressmakerB who delight in
Just such work; It gives them a
chance to display originality, to &C
uuire a certain amount of expert
encs. and to Justify their claim to
making over dresses equal to new.'
The results are often dependent
on tho careful selection Of new ma
feriai to be combined with the old.
: It is never wise to try to match the
old material. Tho dyes vary from
season to season and the number
of shades, tones and tints of any
given color are astonishingly many,
as one 500 finds out when she
shops about a bit in the vain effort
to match the material in hand. 1t
is better to get an absolutely diff
fcrent weave-satin. brocade. velvet
, or cloth. in a so-called matching
tone. II preferred: for the variation
of shade will be laid to the differ
ence in the weaves and not 10 a
bad matching of fabrics
Plaids and stripes are advised for
dresses of plain colors: and there
are printed designs that very readily
lend themselves TO make-over ideas.
Panels. inset-plaits. tunics, apron
effects and guimpe ideas all At Into
the schedule when the rehabilitation
of the dress comes up for consider
alton. Long sleeves are back again;
and they may be of satin, of velvet.
of chiffon. of allover printed or
allover embroidered design; of mate
Ad1Et AAANAl tiAADOoctu ClONua CItDG
de Chine and the like according to
the material of the dress and the
style selected. Also. It must be re-
marked. according to the recon
~struction possibilities. or limitations,
of the garment seeking a new lease
OF fashionable life.
- The liking for the bodice and the
skirt of contrasting colors and ma
terials is as strong as ever; and
when the bodice is OF the so-called
/. fitted type. and the skirt gathered
TO the slightly heightened waistline
with Its rounded front edge. the ef-
feet is bound to be pleasing II worn
by the slender figure. To widen tho
skirt Qf originally cut on narrow
iines) strips of the bodice material
may be run down from waist to hem
in stripe effect; or equal parts of
the waist and the skirt materials
may be used in alternate arrange
ment.
A short skirt may be heightened
by a deeply plated fiounce of the
bodice fabric. say chiffon. satin or
brocade; or by stitching bands OF
Aloli i4bboii 1T itbhiaiAs HbdNti ~
tervals from the hem to the waist.
the material s%upplanted by the rib
bon adding the essential inches re-
quired for the correct length. MORE
would then be used for the sleeves
or for the entire bodice. A study
sof current fashion books will sug-
gest any number Of ways OF bring
ing last years frock quite up to the
Etyle standards OF this season.
It sometimes happens that satin.
particularly black satin. has become
shiny and needs a little treatment to
restore something Of its pristine
beauty. One method suggested IL
to dip the material in naphtha and.
without wringing. hang out in the
air to dry. OF course. naphtha
should never be used near an open
fire or an open fiame-gas or lamp.
Satin should never be sponged. as
It is apt to mar the surface of the
material. Chiffon and similar semi
diaphanous fabrics may be cleansed
in naphtha. but in many instances,
they viii be found TO wash readily
with pure soapsuds and lukewarm
water. Never rub or wiring these
Whot'C New