Evening star., 1923-03-18

spring. 1t has yielded place
TO the coat and skirt.
Winter weather encourages the
one-piece frock because it permits
the display Of a fur coat. If there Is
one thing every woman dearly de-
sires and cherishes, it Is a covering
of peltry. It is her high sartorlal
ambition from the nursery.
In Central aPrk, New York, where
ono finds children wearing the most
costly clothes in this country, there
is an extravagant display of fur Not
ONLY the coat and cap, but the lap
robe is Of sable. of ermine, of mink,
OF chinchilla- 1t is a recent fasnion
10 have baby-carriage robes OF
precious peltry. 1t is an indication
bf wealth and II strikes the for
eiener as one of our most prodfgal
ways of spending money. 1t strikes
the French as unhealthy.
French children are peculiarly un-
dressed during the winter. We IN
sist on thinking of them as weak, yet
we bundle our youngsters in Eskimo
furs. keep them in hot houses, while
the French reduce Juvenile clothes
10 the minimum, put sandals on their
hare feet and turn them out to play
and sleep in the rain.
Well, we are a fur-loving nation,
70 come back to the starting point.
Our women insist upon fur Jackets
on Floida beaches II there Is the
slightest excuse in wind and weather.
we save money for a fur coat even
=. IL we put the family on short rations.
rT%HERE are women of social posi-
l. tion-this is a true story-Who
pledee so much r month out Of their
| income for a year for fur coat. They
are initiated by those who pay
monthly instalments out of small
| salaries.
Winter weather gives the chance
for such Indulgence. Any woman
who can afford a fur coat Or one
decorated with fur wears whatever
kind of frock will rest we'll beneath
It She rarely ruins its outline with
a tailored suit. When spring comes,
it's different. She emerges like
crocus and a tulip into jacket and
skirt These give an excuse for a
vivid blouse. This year designers
cater we'll to that fashion. They
offer an assorted mass of tailored
garments The difference between
what was and what is lies in the
diversity of coats. The American
standardized suit has been cut from
one material. severely tailored and
lacking in decoration. The new suit
carries a skirt of one kind, a jacket
! of another as a variant to the set
standard. Anything that fancy sug-
gests is embodied in the new coat.
With such license women will drift
into separate skirts, separate blouses,
separate coats. The final effect will
be- that of a tailored suit, but the
standard costume will give way to a
miscellaneous assortment.
The three-piece fashion started a
year ago. It came about through
the mandarin Jacket and the short
suede coat, devised to offset the one
piece frock, giving chance for
longer life.
There was also a spirited revival
Of color in costumery at that time,
and the embroidered, braided, figured
jacket was used to put life into dead
black and cold gray gowns.
The bright leather coat never got
sHx>if FIRMLY established in America,
Ans 6s rival, the surplice jacket, COW
eeSd with fanciful stitchery or fig
uraslons or embroidery. took hold of
our desires. It has been as popular
Nora as in France. 1t has been worn
las unucn at Palm Beach this season