The L'Anse sentinel., 1923-10-12

prepsred by the National Geographic So
ciety. Washing ton. D. CO.
The Athos peninsula In northern
Greece to which the Patriarch of Con-
stantinople, head of the Greek church,
retired because of pressure from the
Turkish government, has been land
of monasterles since the hoary days
when Byzantium was In power.
Three penlnsulas extend into the
Aegean sea from the mainland Of Chal-
cidice like the prongs Of trident, and
look as though they might be the fork
with which Neptune planned to throw
the island of Chlos from the sea. Athos
Is the easternmost Of the three. 1t Is
about forty miles long. varying In
width from four to seven miles, and Ii
is entirely owned and controlled by q
group Of monastic communities, which
govern 1t like separate little republic.
Daphne, the port of the peninsula,
In dingy enough little hamlet, con-
sisting Of custom-house, post office,
an inn and the quarters Of the few
residents. Before the World war, when
the Russian branch Of the Greek
church functioned smoothly and thou
sands Of pilgrims from Russia visited
the Russian monasteries of the PENN
Bula, a weekly Russian steamer put In
ut the little port. But lately the ar.
rivals Of the occasional Greek steamers
have been the sole important incidents
Of Daphne's life.
For the normal man life not only In
Daphne but on all Athos Is uncom
monty devoid Of interest and incident
for since 1045 II has been unlawful fol
a woman to set foot on the peninsula
Moreover so far Is sex discrimination
extended that female domestic animals
are barred. Even the eggs and mill
that the good monks of Athos eat ant
drink must come, therefore, from farm
across the border of the strange monas
tic republic.
As one might expect, In world In
habited by descendants Of Eve, tn
law has been broken. There are leg
ends Of inquisitive expresses who wer
Airaculously prevented, at the door
from defiling certain monasterles b.
their intrusion. There are other leg
ends of monasteries subjected to fast
Ing, humility and publication by rea
son of some such unlimited guest.
karyss, the Quaint Capital.
Daphne Is merely the outer vestibul
Of Athos. To reach the heart Of tn
community visitor rides, preferabl.
on mule-back, up a roughly paved sig
rag trail Hike rope dropped In random
folds on a mountain side, up and vi
past terraced olive trees, past whit,
monastery looking pleasantly at th'
sea from high green shelf pas
reaches of wood to the top Of ridge
From these the road drops to the vii
lage of Karyes.
Karyes, otherwise The Walnuts, 4
the capital Of the community. II liel
just under the crest of the peninsula
about midway Of It's long eastern SLOPE
An ignorant newcomer runs fresh fisl
Of incurring displeasure, even wher
he has left his wife behind for In tn
streets Of this other-w6rldly capita
may no man ride, smoke. sing or other
wise comport himself In too self
tatisfied manner
There is much that 10 quaint to In
terest one in Karyes-its crooked al
leys, its broad caves, It's omnipresen
crosses. It's running water Its hanging
gardens, It's sudden visions Of white
capped Athos or the underlying blu'
Of the Aegean, and It's grave bearded
black -gowned inhabitants, with uncu
hair tucked under black stovepip,
hats; true stovepipes they are. too
having neither the brim Of the Wes
nor the upper flare Of the Greel
clergy.
Not all the inhabitants are gownsd
however Some wear white Albanian
ballet skirts, tasseled garters below {
tight white knee. and pompon at tn.
turned-up tip Of each red slipper
These are members of local pretofiar
guard. Others are less amply kilte<
or trousersd In different degrees o.
bagginess and not few look az pro
sale as an American.
For many travellers the true bSeut,
Of a pilgrimage to Mount Ath9t Il
that not only DO you lay up credit fol
yourself on high. but you do II for nsx
70 nothing. Anyone belonging to tn,
worse halt Of Humanity may visit tn,
monast6Sies and be gratuitously enter
tainsd 20 long as As cares to stay.
So many avail themselves Of thii
hospitabis privilege, however. tina
there are A>efsss Ia the welcome en-
tended BY the monks. II, for instance
/ the pilgrim brlnss . letter from known
ecclesiastical authorities, he VIII. r.
ceivs more. conslderation, and maj
svsn receive neasg - his own ~