davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-10-28
Sleeves Take Splendor and Importance of Renaissanc

women 60 right on wearing their
arms bare in this mild weather, but
the accepted change is molding new
fashions. and dressmakers who are
completing cold weather frocks do
not find it difficult to put ornate
sleeves into tight armholes. There's
no protest. Maybe winter weather
Is more persuasive than fashion.
Maybe there IL a slight feeling. at
last, for change in apparel Some
one is tired. somewhere. OF a coffee
sack hanging from the shoulders
witch a slit for the head to 60
trough and wide openings for the
arms.
Women are worried about the limp
ness of sleeves rather than by their
increased length. If limpness is not
retained, it's going to be fretful
winter for those who are everlast.
ingly trying to make a decorative
sleeve OF width and stiffness go un-
der coat with insuff1ciently wide
sleeves.
Il X X
THE fashion for the sleeveless
Il jacket did not survive 1t died a
quick death, but it may be exploited
again in the spring, which is the suit
able season for it. 1t was a lovely
idea; old as human nature, nearly. It
gave women a chance to prolong the
line from shoulder to hips. which H.
almost necessary to style and grace
in the average American figure.
In way Of parenthesis: what an ad-
vance it is on methods of the last
decade that the clothes makers most
stridently insist through the public
ity channels that French ideas only
are now worked out for the Amer
ican figure. 1t has taken years of
preaching and failures to bring the
Evening star., 1923-10-28

the Alps bloom like a garden. A
large part of the country 10 still COW
cred with forests as carefully cared
for as the trees on your lawn.
Another large part is pasture from
which the stones have been picked, so
that the sweet grass grows among
the large rocks; and on farther down
in the foothills and valleys are thou
sands OF small farms and vineyards.
About one-third of the land is in cul-
tivation.
X X
T>HE Alps are here in two ranges,
i with stretch of tableland run
ming between the Juras and the
higher Alps from Geneva to Lake
Constance. This strip is about one
fifth of the country. IT has a bed OF
rich soil and II Is intenslvely culti-
waited. 1t is the backbone of Swiss
agriculture and the chief industrial
and financial center. 1t has most of
the cities and hundreds Of villages.
The whole, country is one Of villages
and there are but few very large CEN
ters. The largest municipalities are
Zurich and Basel at the north, Bern
in the center and Geneva at the west.
But these four towns punched to-
Evening star., 1923-10-28

with a jerk and the silver was tight
In her fist. The woman straightway
sat up and put the coin in her pocket.
I cannot vouch for the truth OF this
story. but should hate to risk q
twenty. dollar gold piece that way to-
day.
i where evident. This is the land
OF the apron and the patched panta-
loon. Neither man nor woman Is
ashamed Of his work or his working
clothes. Every laborer has on his
blue jeans and every woman clerk
has . nightgown-like slip Of white
cotton. which covers her dress from
the neck to the shoe tops. The por-
ters and baggage men Of the rail-
roads. the street cleaners, the gro
GERS, the butchers. the bakers and
candlestick makers, all have some-
thing on to protect their good clothes.
The mechanics and maohinists wear
aprons while at their trades and
every school boy and school girl has
a loose black overdress, which but
tons tight round the throat and
catches the ink spots. Every one
seems to dress simply. There Is no
ostentation. You cannot tell whether
a man is rich by what he has on and
there is practically no paint and pow
der to be seen on the faces Of the
women walking the street I am told
that Geneva is the city Of the rich
and that there are hundreds Of fam
lilies who live on incomes from their
investments. They have beautiful
villas and their homes are wonders
Of comfort and beauty. but there Is
no display for the sake Of display,
and the people are democratic both
in manner and dress. This is so all
over Switzerland.
1t is especially striking to one fresh
from the mad spree OF extravagant
spending going on in America. We
seem to have embarked on . career
Of national extravagance. We are
living beyond our means, buying all
sorts Of things, from clothes to auto
mobiles, on the installment plan, and.
although we hardly know 1t, are get
ting in debt up to our eyes. The
Swiss have always based their living
on national thrift. They make money
and save It. The peasant believes In
standing on his own feet and he
thinks himself as good as his neigh
Dor. His home may be hole in the
mountains. but he acts upon his own
judgment.
The truth is the Swiss have to be
sane. Were they otherwise they
could not exist as nation. Their
wealth is one Of the wonders Of social
and political economy. Stop mo-
ment and take q look at the country
and people. Just what Is Switxer-
landf And who are the Swiss?
As to the flrst, take q seat in the
airplane Of your Imagination and rise
70 the height Of Mont Blanc. Start
there on the border Of France and fly
eastward to the new boundary of
Austria. The distance II not as far
as from New York to Boston and you
have covered the country. Now fly to
the northwest to Basel. on the borders
Of Germany. ana 20 direct south to
Evening star., 1923-10-28

Of shoulder. back and arms have the
ubiquitous scarf at their disposal. 1t
serves the same purpose as It did for
our respected ancestors, whose street
gowns would easily serve as ball gowns
today.
The scarf is of much Importance this
autumn for the street and for low
afternoon and evening gowns. Dress
makers arrange 1t Of two colors, OF
transparent fabrics. as an accessory for
each gown. Often it IL fringed with silk
threads at the hem or embroidered with
fiat flowers in the Peking stitch. It II
worn once about the neck. one short
end at back, the long end in front
Georgetts crepe Is the material most
frequently chosen.
Elaborate evening gowns suggest
scarfs OF printed chiffon. or oriental
silks, usually with silk fringe crocheted
into the hem. Often the dress material
10 used. The array Of modern fabrics,
fantastic and cheerful, is endless. Tulle
IL not used. Once it was the standby
Of the woman who wanted protection
across her bare back. 1t is chosen for
ruffied frocks in the Edwardian fashion
by leaders Of the minority, but its use
ends there.
Strange as it may seem. the splen-
did Spanish shawl In embroidered crepe
Is worn with formal evening gowns. It
must be draped as a square, not in
points. That's trick to remember.
A distinct difference between day and
night gowns is In the arm covering
and the length Of hem. Clothes are
short again for day, sometimes ten
inches from the floor and growing
shorter; but for evening they rub the
ankle. sometimes sweeping on the floor
at back or sides. The arms. which are
unblushingly bare in the electric light.
are entirely covered in the sunlight.
Sleeves reach the wrist. at least: they
often go on to the knuckles. The Polish
sleeve goes on to the knees.
Coat sleeves for evening and day
hours reach the tips Of the fingers when
fur muff f-cuffs are added. Several mod
els in three quarter coats that serve
as part of tailored suit OF severe and
traditional cut. are widely opened at
wrist and nearly cover the hand. This
is not always a pretty fashion. Be
careful of it. Also remember this point:
II the sleeve, is hand length. be sure
that it is wide after 1t leaves the elbow.
II the Chinese sleeve Is accepted, 1t
cannot be modified and adapted with
out awkwardness.
THE majority of gown sleeves for
i day are taken from medieval or
Renaissance periods. The lego
muffin, introduced by Jenny Of Paris
and extensively adopted over here.
goes through a dozen phases. Its
most graceful appearance is in a com.
bination Of heavy and thin material.
such as cloth at top, tight fitting. and
silk plaits or streamers of chenille
dropping from an embroidered bras
sard to a narrow wristlet to match.
An exaggerated sleeve of this type
that has met with favor is Of cloth
that fits the arm like q glove with an
immense pun Of black astrakhan at
armhole and wrist.
The most delightful fantasy that
shows a big bulge on a tight sleeve
IL the clever use of the mandarin ell.
bow cushion as barrel puff from
wrist to elbow on a velvet sleeve.
Evening star., 1923-10-28

the borders of Italy. If you speed the
machine you can make that trip in an
hour and twelve minutes.
Looking down from the airplane.
the land reminds one OF what one Of
the sailors of the days of Columbus
said to the King Of Spain in describ-
Ing the island Of Santo Domingo. He
took up sheet Of note paper, sQueez.
ed 1t in his fist and threw 1t, mis-
shapen and wrinkled, down on the
table. "Your majesty. Santo Domingo
is like that" That would be q good
description Of Switzerland as seen
from the air. The land is all hills
and hollows. with snow-capped peaks,
with many gorges and canyons. with
here and there a plateau and wide valley.
Nevertheless. the Swiss have made
Evening star., 1923-10-28

- 1RIFT, Thrift, Horatio!"
- Hamlet's cry Is the cry Of
the Swiss, and never has It
L sounded more loudly. Be-
fore the war these people were
rope. Every man. woman and child,
hguratively speaking, had more than
$f,100 in his or her jeans. The ma
tional wealth equaled more than
$500 for every family and the coun-
try had tourist trade which brought
In more than hundred million dol
lars a year. 1t had q large foreign
commerce surprising that Of the
United States by more than 200 per
cent per capita and 1t was making
money hand over fist. It's national
debt was a bagatelle, and the general
debt was only 1 cent for every 50
Of the wealth of the nation. The
interest was easily cared for by tax
alton and the government had an an
nual surplus.
Then came the war and Switzerland
assumed the position Of the innocent
bystander in the midst Of the mob,
and as usual she was hit by the
bricks. She was surrounded by Italy,
Austria, Germany and France and al
though she did not fight she had to
keep an army about her whole border.
She had to feed and care for It, and
at the same time her citizen soldiers
were taken out of the industries.
The result was that when the war
closed the Swiss debt had increased
1900 per cent and the taxes mounted
sky-high.
During the war the people made
money by supplying the fighters. The
farmers added to their savings, and
those who invested In stock received
10 per cent. Two hundred of the
most important stock companies
doubled their incomes and their divi-
dends were doubled as well. The
Swiss are natural savers. and they
invested their profits In their own Sc
curities buying back one hundred mill
lion dollars owned by outsiders, and
at the same time they loaned money
at high rates right and left, to their
international neighbors.
WITH the dawning Of peace the
w Swiss thought they had the
world by the tail. Their money was
good and their credit was better.
They slapped their pocketbooks and
walked with q strut, and for time
looked down with contempt on the
falling currencies OF the nations
about them. They did so not long.
Their Investments in Germany. Italy
and Austria fell. They found their
own good money. strange to say,
curse instead Of q blessing. 1t was
worth so much that tho nations about
could not buy the Swiss golden
francs: they had to stop buying Swiss
goods and that is the condition today.
While in Germany few months ago
heard two stories which illustrate In a
small way what has taken place. One
relates to q clustering German tourist
who in 1914 was stopping at Zurich. He
had q fuss with waiter who spoke
snseringly Of the kaiser, and he there
upon slapped the man In the face. The
Swiss waiter brought suit, and as the
German had to leave to take his place
In the army before the suit could be
tried, his lawyer made him give a de-
posit Of 500 francs, then about 400
marks. before he was allowed to depart.
The German forgot all about the de-
posit,, but the bank at Zurich has now
Transferred to his account in Berlin
100000 marks. an amount which before
the war would have been worth 81, ,750, =
coo. This Is as payment for the 500
Evening star., 1923-10-28


Money No
of
Via land S andW the eSwisA
Evening star., 1923-10-28

THESE IMPORTANT CUFFS ARR ARE ADOPTED BY SMART DRESS
MAKERS. THERE'S THE LACE CUFF OF THE VENETIANS
WORN WHEN LACE WAS INVENTED; THE CHINESE ELBOW
CUSHION OF COLORED SILK AND EMBROIDERY; THE TIGHT
WRISTLETS OF BLACK GOLD EMBROIDERY, CHINESE
FASHION, WITH SILK TASSELS IN THE TWO COLORS
Evening star., 1923-10-28
BY FRANK @. CARPENTER

GENEVA, SwitZerIand.
1RIFT, Thrift, Horatio!"
- Hamlet's cry Is the cry Of
the Swiss, and never has It
i sounded more loudly. Be-
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
MORE FAIR WEATHER
Promise Of Some Local Rain Seen in
Near Future.

Generally fair weather here will con.
tinue through Friday, according to the
forecast of Observer ]. II. Jarboe, but
the San Antonio weather man is
watching closely the movements of a
low pressure area centered over Okla
homa early Thursday and a high" to
the northwest of this the difference in
temperature between which brought
rain from Santa Fe, n. NJ, TO Des
Moines. Iowa. and caused cloudy skies
even us far south as San Antonio. The
actions of the different areas of ba-
rometric pressure may bring rain here
before the week is up, but 1t is just a
chance and too early yet for an accur-
ate forecast.
Temperatures locally will remain
about the same for the next "a hours
with the maximum between "a and 9S
The highest Wednesday was 96.
Wet weather continues in the Cotton
Belt to the eastward. Showers were
numerous in the last "a hosrs in west.
ern Tennessee, eastern Mississippi
central Alabama and southeastern
Louisiana, being light to moderate at
most places but exceeding two inches
at points in Mississippi and Alabama
Scattered showers occurred near the
Atlantic coast.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR
OF NORTH CAROLINA
AND 3 OTHERS HELD
Conspiracy to Wreck Bank
and Fraudulent Use Of
Funds Charged.

Raleigh. \. c.. Aug. f6.--Lieut.
Gov. w. Il. Cooper, of North Carolina,
Thomas f. Cooper, his brother ;
Horace G. Cooper, his son, and Clyde
L. Lassiter, business associate of the
family, we've arrested in Wilmington
Wednesday afternoon on United States
warrants charging conspiracy to
wreck the defunct Commercial Ma
tional Bank and fraudulently using
the funds of that institution, it was
learned here this morning. All fouf
defendants were released when they
gave bond.
Lieutenant Governor Cooper and
Thomas Z. Cooper, formerly vice presi-
dent of the Merchants National Bank
of Raleigh, were held in bail of S10,-
900 each. Horace c. Cooper, formerly
cashier of the Commercial, in bail of
$4,000. and Clyde l.. Lassiter in bond
of $4,000. e,
All four defendants waived examina-
ton before the United States COM
missioner a I'D will be tried at@ihe No
vember FERN of United States court in
Wilmington.
The defunct Commercial National
Bank was located in Wilmington,
N. C..
The warrant against the four men
arises from the alleged surrender oil
a bill of lading without the payment
of draft few days before the bank
was closed by federal bank examin-
er. They also are accused of placing
a dummy" in the bank. covering a
real estate transaction amounting 10
S13.5OO.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
ARDENT SWANS
WITHOUT WITNESSES
REFUSED MARRIAGE
Ne.u Nebraska Law Causes
Dearth IN We'd
dings.

Council Bluffs. Iowa, Aug. 16.-Six
couples a day., fleeing to this mecca
of matrimony from all over Nebraska
since the effectiveness of that states
new eugenics marriage law, which re-
quires ten days public notice of in
tention, together with oertification OF
physical fitness. are being refused
licenses to wed, because they are I'M
able to furnish witnesses as to their
Identification, according to Roy
Hardesty, marriage license clerk,
here.
Ardent swains flocking here from
all over the state just across the Mis-
souri, river, and many from Omaha in
particular, believing the matter of
escaping the technicalities of Nebras-
ka's law, simply one of getting out
of her borders, are greatly discomfit-
ed, to say nothing of the embarrass-
ment to their prospective brides to
be suddenly brought from the realms
of anticipated bliss to face unromantic
requirements of the law, according TO
Hardesty, who enlists the aid of the
press in making known those require
ments.
The new marriage law in Nebraska
which is credited BY some observers
with having caused a noticeable
dearth in marriages. was enacted by
the last legislature. Out-state points
in close proximity, since the law
became effective, August 1, have re-
ported marked increase in marriages
contracted by couples from Nebraska.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
co TO THE ROCK PILE
Dallas Men Sent to Jail for 100
Days.

Archie Rogers, 3S, and Charles NJ.
Lackay, "A, recently here from Dal-
las, Tex, each drew sentence of 100
days on the city's rock pile when they
appeared beforetFire and Police Com
missioner Wright, acting police judge,
Thursday. -
The two men were arrested by De-
tectives Hartman and Proudfoot Wed.
nesday afternoon. following a lively
chase through the downtown district
and during which pistol was fired.
The plain clothes men noticed the two,
they testified in court, lettering in the
vicinity of the Houston street bridge.
As the detectives started toward them
both fled. Pursued and commanded to
halt, which they ignored, Detective
Hartman fired one shot into. the air.
The report of the gun instantly at
tracted attention. Many civilians
Joined in the chase which led through
Riverside walk. east on Travis, thence
north on Navarro and into Pecan
W. II. Brunette, 515 Goliad street.
though so years old, displayed remark
able speed in overtaking one of the
fleeing men who was far in advance
of the other. ? 3
Both were charged with vagrancy.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
TEXAS COTTON
WAR PR0V0KES
ARSON THREATS
Farmers Wives Frightened
by "Strange and Un-
masked Men,"
WOULD BURN BARNS
Agriculturists Warned Not
to Join Farm Bureau
Association.

Dallas, Tex. Aug. f6-Charges til II
unknown persons are threatening {,
burn barns and homes of farmers in
Hunt county il they join the Texas
Farm Bureau Cotton Association wer-
made here today by L. +. Mckay
publicity director of the association.
I Specific threats were made b!
strange and unmasked men" las
Tuesday while six leading , farmer
from Greenville were in Dallas will
view of joining the association. b.
said.
The unknown men visited the farm
ers' homes and frightened their wives
according to Mckay.
''If you are interested in keeping
your homes and your barns from be
ing razed to the ground in suddei
and mysterious way" these men ara
quoted by Mckay as having told tn,
farmers wives, you had better per
suace your husbands TO lay off thi;
cotton association gang"
Efforts are being made 10 appre
bend the men making the threats, Ms
Mckay said.
An announcement was made yestes
day that the Texas Farm Bureau Cot
ton Association had arranged for q
S20,G00.000 loan in New. York tQ- II
nance the crop of itsgmcmbcrs. SIG
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
DISCOUNT WARRANTS.
State schools To Operate on Def
cheney Basis.

Austin. Tex. Aug. 1e.-As re
suit of the S3,0OO,OO0 deficit in tho
state treasury TO the credit of gen
eral revenue. all of the nine state
educational institutions of higher
learning will be operating on de
ficiency basis on September l. the
beginning of the next fiscal year
This announcement was made late
wednesday, by State Treasurer c. v
Terrell. following the announcement
that the university is now on a
S300,OO0 deficiency.
This deficiency means that war.
rants paid employees of the various
schools will be required to discount
them, probably as high as D or G
per cent.
The amount Of the deficiency for
the various institutions is not known
at this time by the treasury depart
ment. Included in the list of educa-
tional institutions facing the deficit
are /: A. x NJ. College, Denton Teach
ers College, College Of. Industrial
Arts. San Marcos Teachers College,
Huntsville Teachers College and the
teachers college at Alpine.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16

Drifting to Shore,
Dead Sea Monster
Puzzles Fishermen

Miami, Fla. Aug. 10. = A
strange sea monster has drifttd
ashore on Key Biscayne, a few
miles southeast of Miami.
Weighing about 1000 pounds
and dead less than "a hours. it
presented a sight never before wit
messed in these waters, fishermen
who saw it said.
The monster is about eight feet
long, four feet in height and only
ono foot across.
1t has a head. if it can be called
that. shaped in semi-circle meas
uring from back to belly across
the face.
Its large eyes are but a few
inches from a remarkably small
mouth and in the way of fins il
has two small ones. but a few
inches long, back of the gills.
The skin is similar to a sharks
but not so tough. Of particular
curiosity is the rudder or tail fin.
which seems to be hinged as a
ships ruddcr.
There is n joint before this Tin
which permitted it to swing back
and forth. used probably to guide
the fish. This fin or tail at the
extreme after-end of the fish Is the
only appendage and gives the end
the appearance of being cut off
square with the body.
Fishermen here have exhibited
unusual interest and every means
is being taken to classify the mon
Slnr
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-08-16
a YOUTHS ARRESTED
Quartet Accused Of Stealing Lumber
and Castings.

Two white youths are detained by
city detectives as lumber thieves. Two
others are said to have been found
with automobile castings IN their pos
sessioL. which pain clothes men sag
are stolen property.
The alleged lumber thieves are said
to have stripped houses of new lumber
and fixtures just installed. Lumber,
Ahouse fixtures and other building ma
terial, valued at approximately $500,
were recovered from the alleged rem
-dezvous Of the two young men We'd
nesday afternoon, said to be situated
nearly two miles southeast of the city
limits.
+, Looting of dwellings under the
course of construction had been re-
ported recently to detectives from n
number of residential districts. Lum-
Der valued at $75 and other equip
ment, identified as stolen from dwell
ings being erected in the vicinity of
Highland Park. detectives say, was
found at the RENDEZVOUS and recovered.
The capture of the gang was brought
about by Detectives Long, Grasshoff.
breen ana barriss. lne laus are eaiu
to have been under surveillance for
several days.
Officers say dwelling on the prem
Uses where the arrests were made is
in the course of repair. and express
the belief that stolen lumber, taken
from other dwellings being erected,
was used in the work.
The lads held in connection with
the alleged automobile tire thefts. de-
tectives believe, are memhcs of a
gang that have been-responsible for
the theft of castings in the northwest
part of the city during .the last several
weeks.
In the absence of Identification Of
castings. tubes and rims held By de-
tectives. cases against the suspects,
detectives say, are not regarded as
strong.