davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

get. someone to take hold of the mat
ter and see if dependency could be
established but had difficulty until
a county judge at Loup City becalIe
interested. Mr.. Livdahl said. He ap-
pointed X. ID. Henderson guardian
of the insane widow and minor chill
dien.
The Bureau has just completed the
award. totafling about $4,000, un.
der which payment. will be made
regularly FOR support Of the widow
until she dies or remarries and sup.
port of the children which ceases
whenever child becomes IL wears
old. The payments will be $24 each
two weeks. A lump sum Of $428
was also allowed.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02
was est5i Il al:t =

was estin,sSsa + ks(e. !.
tives. The new schedule, signed
after series of conferences in St.
Paul, between representatives of the
employees and railway executives,
makes unnecessary submission Of
the wage question to the Railroad
Labor board. j..
The increases include $40 4 mont h
for carpenter foremen, giving them
a wage of $lG0 month. Sec,ion
foremen were increased 1854 from
500 and 1925 a month Bridge fore
men were Increased 1854 from SIPS
a month. Carpt nterN benefItting by
a 3 ~ cents an hour increase. low
receive 81 to 63 cents an hour.
Track watchmen with one year SEN
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

innOcently. The court held that OBJ
jections to the jury panel because
it was dismissed and recalled were
W thout merit, that testimony of two
witnesses whose attendances could
not be procured. given at a former
trial, was properly admitted, and
that admission of certain rebuttal
testimony concerning the commission
of other larcenies was not erroneous
Judge Nue. sic presided at the trial
in Hettnger county. Judge Burr
sat on the supreme court in his
place.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

iority were increased 2 cents an hour
Crossing watchmen flagmen and
gatemen were increased ! cent an
hour. Common labor was increased
from 81 to 30 cents an hour where
service was one year or more.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02
WAGE BOOSTS
ON NO. PACIFIC
Agreement Between Execu.
tive Heads and Men

Wage increases to 10000 Northern
Pacific railway maintenance of way
employees announced Thursday night
in st. Paul will add approximately
100000 annually to the payroll, il
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

last year, announced in a Statemen.
today that the would open law Offices
here for practice related to federal
acts and customs litigation and
would reamin in close touch with
politics of both my ttate and the ma
ton"
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

For Sale-Screened in sum.
mer house 9 by IL. r. M.
Kerges0n, Bismarck.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02

II has conquered the Ma
tons Ills wait for the
STAR.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02
They are not higher priced
Wait for the STAR.

Punta Arenas, Chile, is the south
ernmOst town IN the world.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1923-06-02
M'CUMBER TO
PRACTICE

Washington, June 2.-Former SEN
ator Porter, ]. McCumber of North
Dakota, defeated for denomination
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

digri- ,ps having band of pals
ley design near the bottom. He
places another band, this one of
nutria fur, around the hem to fin
isl the garment. The same design
appears on the sleeves near the
wrist and both sleeves and collar
are fur trimmed.
A favorite method of making
black coats distinctive is to en-
broider them in copper mingled
W subdued, beaut III tones
Of color that one GOES in a Per-
sian miniature. Naturally the pat.
tern of the mb-Didery is small.
in harmony with the delicacy of
the colors. Monkey fur and sea,
are usually employed as trimmings
for IS having this embroidery
Fur will be much in evidence as
a trimming for gowns, suits, coat
and capes. Narrow bands of fur
are favored for dresses while wide,
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

girdle. This model is in the panel
at the center of this page. The
frock at the right of it is also a
Jenny model. 1t is of black satin
with bands of gold lace and
fringes of monkey fur on the tvs
flounces of the skirt.
At the left of the panel is an
other new autumn model from
Jenny in red crepe with two
shaped flounces placed on the
skirt in bias lines. This is type
of dress that Jenny is trying to
introduce. Its success is prob
lematical, as it gives the figure a
clumsy appearance.
The directoire influence is felt
very strongly this autumn, both in
millinery and in gowns. 1t is a
modified directoire frocl that the
couturiers are displaying now,
with none Of the exaggeration that
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

which buttons the full length of
the skirt and under the arm seams
of the bodice.
Patou makes a number of his
fall models with swinging skirt
fullness of circular cut. A model
typical of this movement is de-
veloped in green crepe de chine
with red and green braid arranged
in rows of two colors. The collar
and cuffs are of gray astrakhaL
Another Patou dress with circular
cut fullness is developed in black
crepe de Chine with trimmings of
red and black braid.
Jenny makes an informal eve
ming dress, for the first social af
fairs of the autumn, of black vel
vet, with bands of gray monkey
fur and an embroidery in pink
beads, which covers the back panel
and trims the ends of the sash
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
Newest Fashions Are Threaded on Old Themes

ously than ever in evening dress
Nothing has been found to repl;
them in beauty and becomingnd
The new feature is the use of |
tremely small paillettes, which d,
a touch of brilliancy when int
mingled with bead embroidery 8
also tighten the weight, a most
sirable point in decorative We
of this kind. 1t is anticipated a
that the use of rhinestones al
motif in embroideries will be e
tinued.
The velvet dress diamantee l
claim strong attention in the
tumn and winter lines. The Pdl
dressmaker includes these in Il
collections. One of the most s
cessful embroiderers Of this k
is the Grande Duchess Maris y
Russia, who has her own worksI
in which she specializes on BIZ
derie diamantee.
She and her husband, who.
one of the most distinguished n
in Paris, are most enthusias
over their workshop, by means
which they earn their liveliho,1
They make many exclusive desl 4
for Gabrielle Chanel, whose K
nous 10000 franc diamars;..
dress of last year was embroideit
in the workshop of the Ora !.
Duchess Marie. =
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

Creating new interest in dres:
does not always mean making rad
ical changes in current styles
Often it is most successfully
achieved by developing themes in
troduced in past seasons.
This is illustrated in many of
the most pleasing features of the
models designed for this autumn
and the coming winter. Among
the most noteworthy features of
these clothes are beautiful fabrics,
among them moires in both silk
and wooden embroidered and bro
caded in metals, hand-woven WOOL
en- materials for daytime dresses,
velvets Of old ivory tints with pat
terms embroidered in bright colors,
the lavish use of fur for trimming,
the directoire influence and the
continuation of the beltless frock
and coat.
The beltless straightline frocks
that have been so popular this
summer are being carried over
into the autumn. Many smart
models cut on these lines are made
of the autumn fabrics - serges,
kashas, moires, crepe satins and
alpacss.
One Of the most charming Of
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

these models Is a frock from Jenny
made Of dark-brown kasha, cut on
slender, straight lines, and trim
med at the knees with three tiny
circular ruffles. Similar ruffles
adorn the cuff portion Of the
sleeves. A fur collar that may be
worn open or tight about the
throat makes this model into prac-
tically either a coat or a dress.
While these new models for au-
tumn do not have belts they fit
the hips closely and frequently
have sash ties on one side. The
Partisan habit of fitting the hips
and allowing the rest of the gown
to fall loosely is a very graceful
one and becomes both the thin end
the stout woman. Of course, it
places premium on the low
waistline, but its charm will doubt
less do much to keep the waistline
where it has been for several sea-
sons.
Embroidery is almost invariably
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
BY SARA MARSHALL COOK
The Ensemble a Most
Important Note for Fall

The ensemble promises to be leading fashion of the
aVuter that is to say dress accessories that match each
other The hat and the coat to match, the hat and the
scarf hat scarf and f hat scarf and bag or bag and
hat This idea avM be oertable erase for 10nter ST.
Talbot the very popular Paris mAner, aV make the
ensemble feature of her autumn line. She has chosen
beautiful ovoolens and silks from uch she aeH make
coats and hats to match Elaine the Rnc de Ia Par llnev
and Talbot Also aVN focus on the ensemble.
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
Ideas of Other Days Modify
the Last Word in Fall Styles
Black Velvet Favorite Material for Afternoon
Dresses-The Directoire Feeling in
Gowns and Millinery

to be found on the Paris frocks
of this character. Many of them
are braided all over. The colors
used tend toward the brilliant
and the barbaric, although the
Chinese influence is very apparent
in many of the models.
Some of these beltless models
piquantly suggest the 1880 period
frocks. A Martial ct Armand
dress of printed velvet, in vivid
colors, on a cream ground, is
draped toward the back at the
hips and has large sash bow with
ends that hang over the drapery.
A Persian Miniature.
Coats of the same character as
these frocks are to be seen every
where in Paris. Many of them
are simply held in place, to out
line the hips, or are allowed to
fall loosely from the shoulders.
These coats are usually embroid-
cred all over or in bands, and
they are invariably trimmed with
fur bands, monkey in black, white
and colors being the favorite.
Doeuillet makes a coat Of YER
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
Paris Emphasizes.
Pastel ColOrins

One Of the new color md,
ments in Paris at the present tt
is the tendency toward pa.
shades, particularly combinattt
Of soft rose, green, dull blue, Z
zelle-like beige and biscuit tel
Louison, the we'll known milliI
has a varied lot of toques !
which she uses these lovely pal!
shades, notably in combinat
with brown. Recognizing 1.
pastels are lovelier in velvet ,ha
in any other material, Lorai
chooses velvet as the medium Q
expressing the movement in
tells. y
Nine. Vionnet has for the e
few months used a great deate
flesh pink crepe de chine, cpe
Marquise and crepe Georgette E,
her evening dresses. Many y
Channels diamantee frocks ar9f
pale pink, and the latest of til
are embroidered in sapphirespo,'
lovely combination, recalling
extravagant taste of La MarGp'''
du Pompadour. II
Blue de Chine and Petrole In
The pastel colorings domiF
in wide skirted dresses, beautk'
pompadour rose being combid
with Natter blue. ORCH,
shades are combined with
venche or periwinkle blue, al
soft pale blue with a violet
amethyst tone is a popular Dr.
bination. Or,
A new color in Paris at the Ie'
ent time is blue de chine,
derful medium blue whfs,lFs
neither Natter nor royal. 1t u
the color launched at the Gsa'
Prix and, therefore, belong, a
the Louis XIV period.
1t is called Chinese, although
is not so bright as the CHR !,
One wonders just what wilbl'
done with this new blue. Asls
it has appeared successfully m,
in accessories, such as cor
bouquets and fans of ospreA :,
ostrich.
Still another new color, e
petrole, is a sort of gray-gi
All of the milliners are usingn,
as a model color. A big n''r'
ment, however, still continuerz
all shades of brown, notably
browns and deep tan tones ~
favorite combination will be lst,
and one of these various slut.
of bright brown. Black is sha,
very strong, notably in milliSll'
II,
Some of the important mil, ). :,
are working on pastel shades,ini
ably the pasteis mixed with m lcr
that is, gold and silver thr, ow,
Often three or four of these
are combined, such as lave
rose, blue and green in pastel
with silver. There is also a b
tortoise shell brown much
when intermingled with gold
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
| luxurious bands and patches are

luxurious bands and patches are
used on coats. The use of monkey
fur continues undated, while
beaver, nutria, seal, marten and
kolinsky are also popular. Fur
collars on dresses for street and
general wear are greatly used.
Jean Patou puts collars of fur on
his sports dresses and IS, using
white fox and nutria generously.
Circular Cut Fullness.
Patou makes an interesting
dress in beige wool reps trimmed
with brown astrakhan fur. The
skirt is in three tiers, like so
many of the new autumn models,
and it has as an additional new
feature a narrow left side panel
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16
The Directoire Feeling.
accompanied its revival some sea.

Inc birectoire reehng.
Jeanne Hallee, in some of her
new directoire models for the au-
tumn, shows striking color comb =.
nations which the slit of the di-
rectoire skirt encourages. A popu-
lar model from this house is of
dark blue serge, cut in the d.
rectoire manner and slit to show
a mandarin red crepe skirt be-
meath. The front is trimmed with
narrow braid in shades of red,
gold and blue.
In the directoire millinery de-
veloped by the leading modistes of
Paris the high stiff >rown and mar
row brim is modified by clever de-
vices of trimming and by the tinv
nose veil. Ostrich feathers, rib
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

Paquin makes a white MORE
dress, the skirt of which is formed
entirely Of little volants, or bias
folds. There is q very wide hip
girdling sash and a deep hood-like
collar at the back, which is lined
with heavy white lace.
Sketched at the upper right of
this page is a beautifully simple
dinner dress from Patou developed
in Nile green and rose MORE, a
lovely combination from a color
standpoint. The dress appears to
be made double, the underslip of
rose moire being revealed at the
front and under the arm. The
green overdress is embroidered ,ir
green, gold and rose beads and
metal threads in a border pattern,
outlining the opening, which re-
veals the panel of rose MORE. TIL"
Egyptian-like folded girdle has
also a bead embroidery in green
and gold. A Talbot hat, in one o.
the new golden effects, made Of
metal brocade in beige and gold
with a crown trimming Of gilded
ostrich tips in beige with flecks of
gold paint, is worn with this gown
While the general length of
skirts for autumn is to the ankle
and above, many Of the leading
dressmakers are showing them
nine inches from the ground and
sometimes shorter. The waistline
is to be slightly higher in most
cases, and the sliding waistline
seems to be the favorite. Each
dressmaker's version Of the slid
ing waistline is slightly different
Callot varies it by beginning the
line low in front and making it
come to normal in the back. Made
leine Vionnet, on one of her mod
els, places the waistline high in
front and exaggerates it by tying
a large bow at the hips in back.
Sleeves Are Long and Tight.
Necklines continue to vary frop.
the bateau. to the square to the
round. Sleeves at present vary
widely, but the wide sleeve of for
mer seasons is practically absent
Long, tight sleeves with flaring
cuffs and puffed sleeves, either
elbow length or long, predominant.
Black velvet is the favorite ma
terial for afternoon dresses. Dire
coll makes a model in this color
and fabric, and combines it with
vivid green crepe. Besides evinc-
ing the flare toward velvet, this
model shows the use of two con-
trasting tones, black and vivid
emerald green being chosen in this
instance. The long, sight-fitting
sleeves finish with circular cuffs.
the cuffs corresponding with the
circular cut of the overskirt dra-
perry. Surrounding the hips is an
embroidery in black and gold
which forms a sort of triple fes-
toon. These festoons center in a
large buckle Of black, gold and
green enamel on a metal back
ground.
A handsome afternoon dress
from Madrid, made of black velvet
and black crepe, is embroidered
all over with soutache in colors.
The skirt is solidly pleated, the
pleats caught at the hem by means
of embroidered bands. This model
holds a suggestion of the harem
skirt, particularly as there is a
center drapery which passes be-
tween the feet to form a veritable
Turkish trouser.
'Patou goes in strongly for
markedly new color combinations,
using them very frequently in con-
nection with a deep cream. One
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

bon cockades and motifs of flow
ers are used as trimmings.
Materials from the great French
textile manufacturers show a gor-
geous range of colors, and metal
is to be found woven in the ma
jority of fabrics. Metal is also
extensively used for embroidery
and as a trimming for hats.
Stripes six and eight inches wide,
of bright colors combined with sill
yer on a background of black, are
seen in many of the lines. These
fabrics, naturally, are used most
frequently for evening gowns and
wraps.
For daytime clothes the hand
woven fabrics with distinct pat
terms and all-over embroidered
fabrics are among the novelties.
There is liberal showing of plain
materials in wool and silk, as well
as velvets, both plain and embroid-
cred by machine.
Moire is a leader for autumn,
enc it comes both in the wooden
and silken materials. Where it is
made up for formal gowns it dis
plays its pattern in silver, gold
and copper. The metal threads
make the material very firm in
body. This fabric lends itself
wonderfully to gowns of the Sec
ond Empire type, which are still
being featured strongly by the
Partisan couturiers. Yvonne Da-
wilson has model of green MORE,
showing a silver sheei., and made
with a tight bodice and Iona
sleeves trimmed with Russian EN-
broidery in bright colors.
Diamond-shaped Motifs.
An interesting model from
Jeanne Lanvin, developed in blue
MORE, has black and gold embroi.
deries, which appear in diamond.
shaped motifs around the hips and
in the form of a diamond-shaped
monogram on the left side of the
bodice. The collar is like a deer
fichu, which flares in a point al
the front and is pleated at the
back to cascade on either side o.
the center opening. The sleeves
are tight fitting to the elbow, anC
San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-09-16

Dinner dress from Pdtou de-
peloped in Nile green and rose
MORE. The under;lip of rose
MORE is revealed at the front
and under the arms. The over
dress /, embroidered in green.
gold and rose beads and metal
threads
New Britain herald. [microfilm reel] (New Britain, Conn.) 1890-1976, 1923-03-28
VETERAN OF 5 MILITARY
CAMPAIGNS DEAD AT 80
John G. Saunders Saw Service in
Philippines, Mexico and in
World War.

John. c. Saunders. age S5 years, o
302 Elm street, veteran of the Phil
ippine insurrection campaigns, thu
expedition to the Mexican border il
1915 and the world war, died this
morning at O'Clock in st. Francis
hospital, Hartford. He had been all.
irg for long time, but had been ad-
mitted to the institution only week
ago.
He is survived by his parents, Mr.
and Mrs. Joseph c. Saunders, five
brothers, Joseph of Philadelphia, Will
liam, Howard, Thomas and Robert
and one sister, Florence Saunders OF
this city.
Mr. Saunders served with the 23rd
infantry, U. S.. in the Philippines and
while there gagged with the COM
pany in some of the expeditions
against the insurrectos, and went to
the Mexican border in 1916 when the
expedition against Villa, the bandit
chief. Shortly after this he returned
to this city. discharged from the
army. At the outbreak of the world
war, he enlisted as member of the
third army, U. S., and served in
France where he received wounds in
battle.
He was member OF the Moose. the
Mutual Aid association and p. e. f..
Corbin's, and Private Walter j. Smith
Post. Veterans Of Foreign Wars.
The funeral will be held Friday
at 8 o'clock and burial will
r
New Britain herald. [microfilm reel] (New Britain, Conn.) 1890-1976, 1923-03-28
GET MORE PAY APRIL 80
Amoskcag Mfg. Co., One of Worlds
Largest Cotton. Concerns, to Raise
Employees 12K Per cent.

Manchester, N. H., March 2S.--Tht
Amoskeag Mfg Co. one Of the larges,
cotton concerns in the world today
notified employees that 1914 per cent
wage increase would become effective
April 80. The wage increase which
is said by the company to bring wages
within 2 per cent of the peak of pay
received during the war followed a
conference between officials and en-
ployes this morning.
The announcement by the Amos
keag Co. affects between $4,000 and
$4,000 operatives.
This advance although 1t comes aft
er those OF woolen and worsted inter-
ests, marks the first increase in wages
to be granted by any large cotton
manufacturing interest in New Eng
land since the present movement for
higher wages began. Several mills in
the south however announced ten
per cent increase a few days ago.
The action by the company was un-
expected at this time as its plant was
among the hardest hit by the big tex
tile strike of last year In protest
against the increase from 43 to 81
hours in the working week.
New Britain herald. [microfilm reel] (New Britain, Conn.) 1890-1976, 1923-03-28
name OF BLACKMAILER
NOW BELIEVED KNOWN
iDaugherty May Add to In
formation - Reward in
Keenan, Murder Case

New York, March 2S.-The name
of the man alleged by Major Draper
NJ. Daugherty, only son of the attor-
lney general of the United States, to
have attempted to blackmail him be-
cause Of his acquaintanceship with
Miss Dorothy keenan,, the murdered
model, was understood to be in the
possession of Assistant District Attor-
ney Pecora today. A morning news
paper published the announcement
that it had furnished it to Mr.. Pecora.
From Major Daugherty himself the
assistant district attorney hoped to
learn the identity of the man and the
details of his attempted intimidation.
Mr. Pecora believed the information
might link with that he has of the
projected 100000 blackmail attempt
on John Kearsley Mitchell, son-in-law
of L. T. Stotesbury who was the Mr..
Marshall" of the case.
II do not say Major Daugherty's in
formation will lead to the discovery
of the murderer of Dorothy keenan,
but I do say it is of great import
ance," said Mr. Pecora. And | want
to compliment Major Daugherty in
coming forward with greater frank
ness than most witnesses"
, "If the man who Daugherty alleges
sought to mulct him is found he may
Continued on Sixteenth Page)
New Britain herald. [microfilm reel] (New Britain, Conn.) 1890-1976, 1923-03-28
LES Geo. REFLECTS
Smith BOARD CHAIRMAN
All Directors Reelected and
Officers Continued
in Office

At the annual meeting of the stock.
holders OF Ladders, Frary and Clarl,
this afternoon, ,sdirectors were re-elect.
ed as follows:e Charles +. Smith
George NJ. Lanaers, Francis r. Cooley
Andrew j.. Sloper, Luctus B. Barbour
Harris Whittemore, .Frederick G
Pfatt, Frederick A. Searle. Arthur G.
Kimball, Edward N. Stanley, Joseph
II. Lamb, Charles T. Treadway, John
p. Elton and Pardon c. Hickey.
The following officers were re-elect-
ed: Chairman of board of directors,
Charles F. Smith; president, Arthur
G. Kimball; presidents, f. A.
Searle. Joseph F. Lamb, f. ]. Wach-
ter, Herbert A. Johnson, w. A, Rat
tenbury; treasurer, Pardon C. Hickey;
secretary, Edward +. Hall; assistant
treasurers, J. M. Stanley, 0. N. Judd,
A. &. Anderson; assistant secretaries,
w. e. Baker, II. J. Travers, d. C..
Smith; auditor, H.. r. Burr; purchas-
Ing agent, B. M. Shepard.