davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-12-30
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

IN HE most sensational news con-
cerning the exciting topic OF
corsets is, that YOU must put
them on while in bed. The cor
set makers try them on while you are
lying on a table that looks too much
like an operating table to make one feel
happy Experts insist this is the only
way to get the contraption into the
proper place to give support where it is
needed. Anyway, women have accepted
this reasoning and work on this plan.
They can get them far down in the back.
which is essential for the comfort of
the modern corset
It's queer world when it comes to
corsets. Here is the way gossip runs
concerning the regulation of our figures
to suit the beltless sheath frocks and
ell-like suppleness: First, women are
eellike suppleness: First, women are
wear corsets. Second, they are courting
disease through prolapsed muscles by
not wearing corsets. Third, the stric-
ture of the sensitive waistline must be
relegated to the shadows of things Vic
torian, praise be to intelligence. Fourth,
women are running their digestions by
tight line across the top of the abdo-
men, which restricts breathing and the
digestive process. Fifth, the brassiere
as worn by Americans is liable to cause
fiabby chest muscles or even serious
muscular deterioration. Sixth, without
supporting brassieres women slump
into unhealthy postures.
Evening star., 1923-12-30

What does this mean as to Europe
DR.. Zimmerman" I asked.
81 think it means the beginning
and the starting point OF the saliva
tion of Europe. If the scheme is
successful, and T believe it will be,
it means that humanity may hope
that the consequences of the war will
be overcome. IL it should fail L
believe it would be calamity for the
whole world. 1t seems to me that we
have here, in Austria kindled a light
In the darkness of Europe, light.
which perhaps is too small as yet
to illuminate the continent, but large,
enough to guide those nations that.
are still in the dark toward finding
their way out and a way upward"
do you think the success of Aus,
tria is assured?" / asked.
"The permanent success of Austria"
said DR.. Zimmerman, sis dependent
to a large extent upon conditions
outside Austria. IT has physical, ma
terial and spiritual assets enough to
make it a stable economic nation,
but it cannot keep we'll while the
rest of Europe is sick. 1t is depend
ent upon the reorganization and re-
creation of the countries about about
1t. 1t is the marketing center and
the banking center and 1t can render
a great service to this part of Europe.
if business internationally is allowed
to take its natural course. As 1t is
now, the conditions are growing
better and better, but the future de-.
pends not only on Austria, bat to a
large extent on her neighborlng
countries"
Evening star., 1923-12-30

CTOUT women may insist upon
wearing elastic corsets for COM
fort, or in the erroneous belief that
they gain in suppleness. but they
usually succeed in appearing un-
graceful. If one has flesh and plenty
of 1t. 1t must be gently but firmly
held in. and the right way is to dis
tribute the flesh so that no particu-
lar bulk of it rolls into undue promi-
nence. This process of distribution
is the most difficult part of corset
adjustment on any figure except the
eel type.
If the corset Is unduIy tight in
one place, flesh will roll up into
what women now call spare tires"
They are usually carried over the
diaphragm, above the excessively
tightening girdle top. Why any one
should think this kind of figure pret-
ty or graceful Is too hard to eluci-
date. But the widespread accept
ance of the custom of adjusting the
kfesh in this manner shows that wom-
en- are not averse to bulging as huge
| ancestors bulged over the abdomen.
Some measure of fatness is OBJ
tained through brassiere which is
boned and inserted with stout elias
tic. In such dressing there is no re-
lief from the tortuous corsets of
| Catherine Medici's age. A stout fig
ure is made as stir and unwieldy in
20 ~, NJ
fifteen-inch waist measurement days.
1t has about as much suppleness ,as a
wooden stick.
The serious work of corset design
ers is to achieve something between
the girdle with an elastic top that
holds in, the diaphragm until one can
scarcely breathe and the regular cor
set that restricts the abdomen until
one can scarcely walk. Even the
! help of surgeons has been called
upon in the work. Men who weave
and stitch surgical elastic use their
expert talent to make the kind of
| elastic needed by corset designers.
with the result that the flesh does
not slip one inch from where it IL
placed. yet it succeeds in giving the
body a real measure of suppIeness.
1t may be only in appearance. this
suppleness but it holds the frock in
excellent lines even on a heavy figure.
The experts have invented a girdle
of this elastic webbing that rises
| we'll above the waistline.
| The corset is pulled upward from
| the feet by stout and sturdy straps
Evening star., 1923-12-30
Filing Saws.

A LMOST any one with a bit of me-
a chanical ability can learn to file
saws All the equipment necessary
is q set of three or four files of vari-
Gus sizes and degrees of fineness and
a clamp to hold the blade in while the
fling operation is in progress One
must learn to hold the file evenly
and to draw 1t back and forth with
even pressure the fun length of the
cutting surface. It does not injurs
the file or the work to pull 1t back
In contact with the cut surface. e,-ii
though many careful workmen seem
to think that 1t does and prefer 20
lift 1t each time. The set of ths
teeth of the saw should be carefully
noticed before the work begins.
Never use.a file on tools more high
tempered than the file itself, for this.
will ruin It. One set of files should.
be kept for the hard metals. such 40
iron and steel, and another for such
soft metals as the ARTISAN Is often
called to cut, like brass
Evening star., 1923-12-30

part of the diaphragm is confined,
are arrested. Buckle yourself in over
the loins; free yourself at the waist
line"
And in opposition: THE modern
woman, especially of this generation,
is too well developed to need tight
corsets. Athletics and walking, ear
ly school training and dancing have
given her the muscle strength of
man. To bandage these muscles is
distressing. 1t makes her uncom-
Portable; it stops the free distribu-
ton of the blood; lit handicaps her
movement through life"
In despair one goes to the doctors.
"why corsets?' they ask. ''The COM
ling generation won't wear them IL
the present young generation will
forsake them. Developed muscles
will come from exercise without cor
sets. If. they are tight they are in
furious. If they are loose. they are
unnecessary. Girdles with elastics
are good, because round garters pro-
duce varicose veins. but such girdles
shouldn't confine the lower breath
ing apparatus. The modern woman
is breathing INCHES lower than her
tightly laced Victorian ancestors
Work for the coming generation
they conclude.
Ask the athletics directors of gym
nasiums and colleges. "The modern
Sketch of a corset is excellent" they
contend. "It does not confine. II
merely supports. 1t stops short OF
the hip bone. 1t does not rest against
the diaphragm. But if women would
roll their stockings below the knees
as our grandmothers did, they can
eliminate corsets. It's the terrible
pull of the six and eight elastics
worn by stout women that keeps the
legs from proper movement and gives
one WEAKNESS when walking"
Any corsets, no corsets, special
corsets, tight ones, loose ones, are
cries that ring in every woman's ears
when she goes forth to fit herself
into those contraptions invented for
our discomfort.
No mere dress reporter can decide
between the just and unjust, the right
and the wrong kind to wear. Each
woman must be a law to herself
reasoning from the standpoint of com
fort, of fashion, of tradition. The
excellent thing is that she can gel
what she wants. Even the corset
with a high bust. strong whalebones
and curved waistIine is available.
Evening star., 1923-12-30
Priest and Burgomaster Officials, Avert Disaster

great hunting park in the rear in
which the great Queen Maria Theresa
shot deer from her windows when
her larder lacked game. The park
has trees 100 feet high and 200 years
old, and it was under them that we
strolled after lunch and chatted about
Austria and it's recreation.
nURING these conversations ] was
- interested in studying DIR. Zim-
norman and trying to gauge his abil-
ity. That he is a strong character
is shown by the work he has done.
Let me paint his portrait as well as
I can with my pen. In the first place
his physique is magnificent. More
than six-feet tall, straight, 1.-THE and
active, he weighs in the neighborhood
Of two hundred pounds. His head
is large and we'll set and a trifie bald
on the top. His hair is dark brown
and his eyes are dark and serious.
the scholar. He wears big gold
spectacles with bows over the ears.
and his dress, both in the Office and
at his home is that of the business
man rather than the statesman. He
is business, too. all the way through.
He comes to his ONCE at 8 in the
morning and works there until $3.50
at night. He likes his work and does
not take 1t home with him when he
leaves. He works easily and accom-
plishes much with q very small
force. He told me he considered a
small machine the best for this kind
of job, as his assistants must needs
be enthusiastic, diplomatic and
closely in contact with him every day.
In response to my question DR..
Zimmerman told me much of his
work, giving the credit too often,
thought, to the powers at Geneva.
Said he:
sThs task which has been under
taken in Austria Is q gigantic one,
and it has been possible to carry II
through only because for the first
time Europe has shown q determine
tion to help ono OF Its members by
scheme OF constructive interna-
tional union. This has produced q
real peace and not q war underneath
and peace on the surface. We have
the Independence ard financial In
teg-fty of Austria guaranteed by the
nations. We have a great interna-
tionaf loan not mortgaged By repara-
tions, and control which prevents
the squandering OF money by politi-
clans and demagogues. We have. In
short, all the elements which in your
country have so often been pointed
ont as the first conditions Of post
EAr xecnnstrucfionk
Evening star., 1923-12-30

the corset with comfortable back
lacing. None will deny that the fig-
ure Is not the same at all times. Just
week. wey vary in abdominal meas
urements from day to day: The gir-
die, high or low, without opening
down its length, takes no account Of
variation. Some days it is impossi-
| bly, uncomfortable. Other, days IL is
loose enough to slip and slide. Back
lacing takes care of this change. 1t
permits the corset to be- adjusted
daily. If indigestion sets in after a
good meal. the lacings can be slipped
and the dorset made to conform with
the feelings. Not so the tight elastic
girdle. If it is sufficiently slack in
| it's weaving to give way when one
needs more room, it is not worth the
money put into IL.
The trouble with the back-lacing
corset of ancient make is in its
| height at the back. All women have
| learned at last that flesh pushed
above the tight ridge of a corset in
the back is what the youngsters call
revolving" The corset makers have
lowered the line until it reaches
about two inches above the waist.
1t may go as far down the spine as
| necessary for the restriction of the
hips. If undue flesh is there it must
be distributed sidewise, not upward.
While elastic leads all other fab
rics, the insistence by the shops that
they will not guarantee 1T has given
women pause. Its tendency to wear
through and lose shape destroying
the value of the corset, is disheart-
ening. Therefore, brocade in flesh
and deep pink, also in orchid and
sometimes black. is in high demand.
Strips of strong webbing may be in
serted, but 1t is significant that al
most as many all-brocade corsets
Evening star., 1923-12-30

the empire, and this had something to
do with my being asked to take a cab
met place in the administration headed
by. DR.. Lammasch. That ministry, how
ever. lasted only fifteen days and was
succeeded by the revolution, which
finally ended in the new republic of
Austria. Since then have been a part
of the new government, and it has
seemed my duty to do what little
could"
What do you think of the church as
a school Of statesmen? Is it a good
place to train for practical politics ?"
'I do not see why not" replied the
monsignor-chancellor. Good statesman
ship after all aims at the betterment OF
man and the people, and the church
has much the same aims would not,
however, advise every priest to leave
the church to enter upon a political
career"
Your position. DIR. Seipel, is an in
teresting one," said !. your are a
leader in the church that is the emblem
of peace, and at the same time the
leader of people whose existence is
based on the strife Of conflicting inter-
national forces. Can the two be COM
bined? Will We ever have a time when
war will disappear and the lions and
the lambs Of the nations lie down to-
gether?" 81
tI should not like to predict that we
shall have no more wars" replied DR..
Seipel, ''but I will say that the league
of nations is long step toward the adj
vancement OF International peace.
believe 1t Will grow. in strength, and
that the time will come when your peo-
pie Will feel that they must be a part
of it. The league has saved US IN the
time Of our. trouble, and the spirit the
United States liaE shown In coming to
our aid In subscribing to our loan has
been an Endorsement, as it weres of
the leagues action. For that spirit we
are grateful. Personally think it Of
even more value than the SIS. .ooe. 900
which you have. loaned US in money
but. Your exceliency, Will the sta
bility of Austria be permanent? Have
you the people and the resources that
will enable you to build up lasting
political and economic power &s one of
the nations of Europe ?" 81
Yea replied Mgr. Seipel Il
know we shall do that IL the inter-
national relations advocated by such
bodies AZ the league can only prevail.
We have p people who are fitted to
hold such q position and we have
also the other assets that make foE
the establishmeat Of : poiicital. -
scial And Aconoanic entity n : rspnh.
Evening star., 1923-12-30

Austria may walk dryshod through
the inflated Jordan into the milk and
honey land Of stabilized money, peace
and prosperity. He orders them to
discharge their useless employees. to
reorganize their extravagant system
Of railways and other public serv-
ices, and sees that they act SO that
the payment of the international
loans will be assured.
The man who holds this position IL
DR.. r. A. Zimmerman, who for sew
enteen years was the burgomaster
OF Rotterdam and for seven years
before then burgomaster of the small
city of Dorrrecht. The word burgo-
city of Dordrecht. The word burgo-
master of Holland has duties and
powers which are far more extern
sive than those of the ruler of an
American city. In the first place,
he is not appointed by a ring or
the vote oflthe people. He is an ap-
pointee of the queen, and as such
his monarch is back Of him. He
has no gang to boss him and his
office is usually for life. AS ruler 6f
the city he is responsible for its well
fare, its revenue and expenses, and
in a place like Rotterdam, which has
a great international trade. he has to
be a diplomat as well as an execu-
tive. 1t was the reputation DIR. Zim-
norman had acquired for ability and
economic efficiency along all these
lines that attracted the attention OF
the great powers and when 1t was
finally decided to reorganize Aus
tria made the council at Geneva
choose him for the Job.
When the position was offered him
DR.. Zimmerman told me he hesisated
about, his acceptance. He liked his
office of burgomaster. and he hesi-
<tated to leave. but he considered tbs
opportunity a great one and one in
which he might do public service.
1t was through introductions from
the league at Geneva and Mr.. Wash
burn, our minister here. that I met
Or. Zimmerman. Our first talk took
place In his, ONCE in the ministry Of
finance, in the heart Of Vienna, and
this was continued during q holiday
afternoon when Iunched with hin
at the splendid Augarten Palace
which was built in 1865. was remod-
eled by Maria Theresa, and was the
residence Of the Dowager Archduch-
ess Maria Josephaa until the war
chased the Hapsburgs out OF Europe
The palace ID enormous, and the COM
missioner general occupies o4ly th4
best part Of Il. It 10 surrounes ed b
beantifpl xrpnndst and ther4 - 2
Evening star., 1923-12-30
BY FRANK G. CARPENTER

- Vienna.
HAVE talked today with two of
the men who stand at the front
in the reconstruction of Europe
Two years ago neither had a
world reputation, and up to that time
their lives had been spent in seclu-
sion. Still, for the past year the
name of each has been on the front
pages of all the newspapers, and to-
day in the recreation of Austria they
have shown how the world may come
back. Both of these men are re-
markable characters. One is "a Ro-
man Catholic priest and the other Is
a Dutch burgomaster.
My first talk was with the priest.
You have all seen his name in the
papers. 1t is Ignatz Seipel. the man
who is known as the saviour of
Austria, the man who when the re-
public was drowning, when 1T had
gone down twice under the waves
and was about to sink for the last
time. went to London and saw the
premiers of the great powers there in
, meeting. They could give him no
: help, but it was at their suggestion
that he appealed to the league of
nations. which with his, aid has
dragged this country ont of the
slough of despond and onto the
shore.
My audience with, Mgr. Seipel took
place in the splendid reception par
lors Of the foreign Office, where un-
der a gorgeous chandelier of carfed
brass, seated on gold framed green
satin chairs. around mosaic table.
the priest chancellor of the republic,
the minister of foreign affairs and
myself talked for an hour about
.Austria and the problems of the re-
copstruction and peace.
His. exceIlency. the chancellor OF
Austria, speaks some English. but he
prefers German, and the foreign min
lister acted as our interpreter. DR.
Grunberger,is is the perfect interpreter
His English is clear and his asspcia-
tion with Mgr. Seipel is so close that
he translates every shade of his
thought The interview in some
ways reminded me of one I had some
years ago with Prince Ii Hung
Chang, the great viceroy Of China,
when Lo Feng I.uh. afterw.sds the
Achinese ambassador to London, a
EadsAte of Oxford and one of the
English scholars have known,
pc the medium between me and
nous statesman OF China. Lo
rfect conductor and he trans
arx nlectr3o- -Npar2k from LIZ
Evening star., 1923-12-30

are sold now as before the advent of
the elastic giFdle.
For women who want the lower
part of the corset to spread when
they sit down, panels or godets of
elastic are inserted. Otherwise they
are apt to be uncomfortable in the
rigidity of the boned fabric.
So, with all the patter of exceed
ing ease through the girdle corset,
the naturalness of the uncorseted
look, the added suppleness of women
who no longer pay much attention
Evening star., 1923-12-30

brain to mine. DIR. Grunberger did
the same for Mgr. Seipel.
But first let me say a word about
this Christian statesman who, like
Moses. is leading his people through
the Sinaitic wilderness of postwar
construction toward the promised
land of national prosperity. use
the term christian statesman" ad-
visedly. DR. SeipeI is Christian by
education and training as well as in
conduct and soul. He was bred a
Roman Catholic priest. and he is now
the leader OF the Christian socialist
party. which has the majority in the
new republican parliament OF Austria.
He looks like priest or I should say
more like a pope or a cardinal. Tall,
straight, and broad shouldered, with a
big dome of a head as free from hair,
from the neck to the eyebrows, as this
paper on which I am writing, he weighs
about 1S0 pounds. His complexion is
rosy, and his great Uranium shines as
though anointed with the oil OF joy and
gladness which David celebrates in the
twenty third psalm. His features are
strong. His bright hazel eyes look out
from under a broad and full forehead,
his great nose reminds me of that of
Savanarola and his firm jaw indicates
the power he has shown in the control
ofl the Austrian parliament.
The dress Of DIR. Seipel today is that
of the priest of America when outside
the church. black suit OF clerical cut
y><>,, .;oJ, AL
lar shows out. He talked in low
pleasant voice, smiling at times at my
questions, which now and then par
took of personal nature.
r TOLD DR.. Seipel that our peo-
pie were greatly interested in him
and that they would like to know
how he. q priest, came Ito leave the
peace OF the church for the practical
turmoil Of politics. He replied
my work in the church was largely
along political lines. 4 was professor
at the University OF Salzburg, lecturing
on social and political economy, when
the world war broke out, My talks
were abreast of the times. and It was
a book on the state and nation which L
published IN 1915 that brought mesl as
It were. to the front Ny ideas Of the
situation attracted attention, and the
old Emperor Francis Joseph asked me
to form q delegation and go TO Swftxer-
land to confer with the foreign dplo-
mats there as to the war and the possi-
oilities Of its conclusion Later in 1918.
kwhsn The war was stili wsgings wrots
AAaenaoHd hook nn tha- -xecpnsrucsinn e
Evening star., 1923-12-30


attached to the side seams, after the
fashion of our great-grandfathers
who pulled on high boots by such
loops. You remember the old phrase,
don't you, pulling oneself UP by
ones own bootstraps3? 1t is now
favorite bit of advice given by doc
tors to those who must get well by
their own efforts.
These corsets. naturally. push the
flesh upward over the abdomen as
they are pulled into place, and it
would have nowhere to go but in
the chest. IL il were not for front
opening, several inches long, through
which the flesh is distributed around
the body. The undergarment is Sc
verely pulled down after the corset
is adjusted, which also helps. after
ing is laced together with elastic
lacings. giving freedom where, ii is
most needed-over the breathing ap-
| paratus. Such girdles have no bones.
They stretch over the body from hips
to bust with satin-covered seaHi at
each side.
~'s **
THERE are. low girdles which do
L not take care of the uprising
flesh. but leave the work to the
brassieres, although they take 1T into
| consideration by openings at each
side of the front steels or directly
under the arms. These openings are
laced also with round elastic lac
ings. It's pity the corset people do
not give US such lacings without
metal ends. The shoe people have
learned the trick of covering the de-
structive, metal tip with fabric to
save the stockings.
Despite all the babble about elastic
stout figures. there are women and
| girdles and surgical webbing for
corset makers who continue to like
Evening star., 1923-12-30

to the fit of their corsets-the fact
is they pay more attention to such
pieces of apparel than ever. Women
are out for comfort and the SEM
blance of youth il they have it not,
and there is no uniform corset that
gives it to every figure.
Therefore, to the making of cor
sets there is no end. To the prices
asked and gotten there is no limit.
Many poor women pay s25 a pair.
Some reckless. souls pay s1oe pair.
Copyright. 1921
Evening star., 1923-12-30

of a world character than Mgr. Sell
first of the league of nations, which
is trying to lift Austria out of the
hole. He is the Joshua, the modern
son of Nun, who with iron hand is
leading the nation, directing the cap
tains of the government where and
how they must cut down1 expenses,
and manipulating the finances so that