San Antonio light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1911-1993, 1923-02-04

gsnious and brand new hand machine
process. When the foundation is silk
the embroidery is usually of wool and
vice versa.
Color and patterns are Russian, Rou-
manlan, Persian or Czechoslovakian this
season. Roumanian designs are most
favored. The colors are bright but not
as crude as they were last year. These
new jackets are like glorified sweaters,
whereas sweaters in the old sense are
not seen at all. For the afternoon and
evening similar short jackets are of
black satin, embroidered with white
wool and having white fur collars and
cuffs, a band around the bottom, or
white rabbit fur cut in tiny strips and
resewn to initiate erminc. Molyneux
makes them of white kid embroidered
oil over with silver thread and with a
small hat to match. This house special
ICES also in dresses made from one great
square Of crepe de chine printed exact
ly to initiate Paisley shawl. while the
accompanying jacket is made from Il
genuine Paisley shawl of the same de-
sign. This makes a charming costume.
Large Flowery Designs.
For warmer days there are many
dresses of georgette crepe and crepe dc
chine printed with large flowery de-
signs. With these 90 jackets or capes
white in color and embroidered In silk
to match the flowers on the dresses.
BY all odds white is the most popu-
lar background for emphasizing colors
and designs in this new east European
refugee art" just as it is extremely
popular in itself.
Of solid colors green Is fashionable,
particularly almond and apple shades
Yellow is next favored. The reds and
browns, so popular last season are seen
hardly at all in the new summer
clothes.
Capes of all lengths are extremely
fashionable on the Riviera. Many fit
the shoulders smoothly and are wide
and circular at the bottom. For the
evening many old-fashioned capes with
big ruched collars are worn with taft
feta second empire evening gowns which
are so increasingly popular. All other
evening capes are of silk velvet or sill
yer tissue. One Of the latter material
by Lanvin is trimmed with bands OF
ROumanian embroidery. Lanvin is also
the author of the most popular beach,
Tough-weather cape Of broadcloth with
embroidered scarf collar and a single
large embroidered pocket likewise of
Roumanial design.
One novelty is Angora rabbit or mon
key fur collars or trimmings dyed TO
match the color of the evening wrap.
These furS, dyed IN the new green
shades. are causing much comment. For
sepi-dress one sees many three.Uuarter
coats embroidered with soutache braid
)r ''astrakan" wool embroidered to look
like fur. These coats are straight with
a slight circular ripple at the bottom.
Small hats embroidern! all over with
soutacke hraid of design matching
that of the the coats go with them.
To be chic next summer the hat,
jacket or coat must match in color
and trimming, especially in sport things.
For the morning promenade a popular
severely straight and tight at the hips
with very short sleeves and a small cir
cular cape, attached to either shoulder
with leather buttons. The tight effect
at the hips is emphasized by belt of
the same material.
Accessories Of Green and EIue.
These leather belts and buttons, with
a leather handbag often accompanying, |
with gold and silver like the Italian |
writing desk sets. Molyneux was the
originator of this fashionable costume. |
OF wooden materials Kasha cloth is
the most fashionable. Wool embroid- |
cry is also much used. Toildelaine, one
Of the newest fabrics, resembles linen |
but is really wooden. Another of the |
newest fabrics is "bouchette de Sole"
The most fashionable pure silk ma
terial of the season is species Of jer-
sey with a slightly crinkled, rough sur
face. Dresses made of 1t are plain
chemise with an elastic combining the
fullness over the hips. Skirts arc en-
broidered half way up from the bottom
with vegetal silk of many colOrs.
In addition there is a great vogue
for lovely handloom materials, also the
product Of refugee" craftsmanship: 1t
Genes in homespun and basketlike
weayes.
In summer dresses the sleeves will be
extremely short-where there are any
sleeves at all. The small bell hat is
without rival in popularity on the
Riviera and modistes say that it will be
the hat of the summer. 1t is almost
always simply trimmed with cockades
Of ribbon or with tiny flowers ut the
side or back. No irregular shapes are
seen. III
The next favorite after the bell hat
is snug-fitting cap crown with small
rolled brim. Hand crocheted sport hats
are seen frequently in automobiles and
on the golf courses. With these hats
there is always a matching scarf and
both hat and scarf are always crochete1
in four harmonizing tones.
Altogether this seasons styles tend to
thA romantic and picturesque. u