davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1923-09-16

attractive idea for a. costume. The
neutrality OF IT'S topcoat permits many
gown to associate with 1t.
Although the ,three-piece suit is
heralded as the best equipment for
the street, there is a prodigious show
Ing of sturdy coats OF protective fab
RIGS that can serve no other purpose
than to cover frock. Therefore,
frocks must be reckoned with as q
factor OF Importance. SO that reason-
ing brings to head the belief that
q woman can choose between a frock
with a"topcoat. O three-piece suit, q
tailored suit OF American severity.
Topcoats are thrown in the market
by all who have clothes 20 offer. They
are cheap and costly; they are plenti-
fully adorned with fur. English fab
RIGS and American pile fabrics go into
their making. An Eskimo would Sc
riously consider them as being in
tended for use in his land OF oil and
fsh-hooks. Let US hope the solar
eclipse will bring US a dry. cold win
ter; otherwise what will we do with
our cloth frocks. tweed suits, velvet
evening gowns and heavy topcoats?
Such coats have a fare at the hem:
again they are cut as slim as a pencil
They have high collars and long
sleeves, though the height at neck
may be given by voluminous revers
that reach to the back Of head. The
high stovepipe collar, however, has
n
appears on many kinds of garments,
including the separate overblouse.
which. by the way, is a most inpor-
tant adjunct to our costumery in it
SELF
TT IS well to begin on blouses by say
a ing that the one-piecs cloth frock
is so much in fashion that one wonders
where there is to be found q place for
the blouse, but the moment the prodi-
gality of separate skirts is thrust in
ones face the place becomes apparent
They are not TO be kept for the occa-
sional tailored suit, not to be relegated
60 sports; they are to have a place un-
der the electric light. They are rather
gorgeous for so seemingly simple gar
rnent to the woman who thinks Of them
In connection with active morning
hours, as something akin to a wash
short waist. But the woman who remem-
bers the blouse as It was, a quarter of
century ago finds herself in familiar
company when she wanders into an as
sortrnent of these splendid and decora-
tive pieces of costumery. Once upon a
time women wore them to dinner in the
evening, to a card party In the after
! noon, to the theater. They were lux
uries then, as they promise to become
now.
Fancy a blouse OF gold lace over
transparent cloth of gold cut like a
girdle, the sleeves Of double caps in the
LaI1vin manner, the neckline round at
back and front. the hip belt OF gold lace
incrusted with Jade and orchid crystals.
That's not blouse. for shopping or for
the desk. It means gayety. II stands for
pleasure. There are others, equally or
nate and costly. They extend far over
the skirt In the manner OF an oriental
tunic. Some of them are genuine copies
Of Persian tunics, the kind one thought
Evening star., 1923-09-16

schools, and even now they are better
educated, by and large, than the
United States.
There are fewer people here who
cannot read and write in proportion
TO the population than in what we
call our Intelligent land of the free.
1t is only among the Russians who
have come in that much iiliteracy is
found. In 1910 only three out of
every hundred Of the recruits for the
army could not read or write, and
these were mostly Slavs. There are
practically no illiterates among the
adult Let's. The University or Riga
was formerly a technical school with
one thousand pupils. The new gov
eminent has made it a university,
adding several colleges and bringing
In new professors. When the new In
stitution opened II had about twelve
hundred students. It has now more
than six thousand, and they are of
both sexes.
The higher educational standing of
the republic is shown by its second
ary schools. The country has more
in number than Norway, Switzerland,
Portugal or Rumania. Tt has now
1o7, with an average OF III students
each. 1t has agricultural colleges
and experiment stations, and the min
istry of education has recently es-
tablished a normal school for the
teaching of English.
This school Is an evidence OF how
fast the English language is making
its way over Europe. It is spoken
quite generally IN Germany, and here
in Latavia is the only foreign lam
guage that is compulsory in all of
the schools. French and German be-
ing optional. The normal school has
500 students OF all ages, many Of
them old school teachers and others
who expect to teach. There are also
government clerks who wish to ac-
quire working knowledge of Eng
lish. ana some who would At them
selves for service abroad.
When visited the school I found
one of the classes studying Shake
speare. reading the play OF "Jufus
Caesar" in turn. and discussing the
Evening star., 1923-09-16
BY ANNE RIrTENHoUsE.

HAT are we going to wear
NM this. autumn? If we intend
" to be in the fashion, we
will wear many things we
40 not like while we keep a weather
eye on the shifting winds of fashion,
watch are apt to bring in q new
scneme of clothes after the Christ
mas tree has been taken from the
parlor windows
There is too much kinship between
the new and the old STYLES to let US
rest in peace. The French are not a
whit better in this lack of original
ity than the American clothes MAX
ers. Every sailor watches a calm air
and ocean with suspicion. So does
the dress expert.
Here are the things that are re-
peated from chiffon into velvet, from
gingham into cloth: The Spanish
nounce on frocks and coats; the belt
less sheath gown, the farthingale
hoop below the waist; the tight-fitting
bodice above the wide ruftied skirt;
horizontal decoration; the fiat back
or front on skirts; the short jacket;
oriental embroidery or printing; the
hoat-shaped, neckline; the ankle
length evening skirt; godets at both
sides of a skirt: sleeveless bodices:
the Victorian skirt for young girls:
bias tiers across the front of frocks.
That's quite a formidable list of
Fepetitions for two continents to
make at the beginning of an impor-
tant season. For just this reason the
experts are suspicious. They believe
that some will come later in the year
possibly before the new year breaks.
Here are the things that are re-
vived, or reinstated, which gives to
the season sufficient motion to keep it
from being stagnant;
Chinese sleeves, long and wide,
brilliantly lined and furred: a most
g, normal waistline: the insistence that
skirts should preserve a straight line
regardless of fullness; the long, tight
sleeve for day hours. the deep square
decolletage for evening; the wrinkIed
sleeve that extends to the knuckies
and the leg o. lamb sleeve; a revival
or the Victorian tulle skirt whose
Puffies sweep the floor at sides and
pack; short skirts for day and often
for evening: three-qnarter Jackets in
preference to the jumper kind; the
revival of the three-piece frock as a
rival to the chemise slip.
Here are some important omissions:
The ornate hip girdle. wide and gilt
tering; gariands of flowers at the
side; drapery at one or both sides;
the elbow sleeve; the sleeveless bod
Toe for day; the high decolletage for
evening; the long shoulder line that
covers the top OF arm in formal
4rocks: the surplice jacket. except in
knitted sport clothes; the stitched
and printed jacket and short over
blouse; the plated skirt, except for
sports or porch; the colored kid slip
pers.
Nk = II
TN fabrics there's more to reckon
l. with as novelty, such as the en-
broidered wooiens taken from Hindu
and Persian documentary designs:
the emphasis upon velvet and the in
genuity shown by its weavers. It is
embossed, embroidered, striped, ap-
Evening star., 1923-09-16

ular kind have ribs running through
a soft surface, pliable and easy to
hang in = the commendable way.
which is against the figure. Broad
cloth is revived. Satin and satin
crepe are again on the shelves of
shops. Brocades are so sumptuous
Evening star., 1923-09-16

crepe. It is in colors that Venice
and Bagdad approved, such as Doges
red, Adriatic blue, ashes of rose, Pek-
ing blue, orchid, topaz yellow, terra
Gotta, also black, pale brown, beige.
There's a host of wooden fabrics
under several trade names. The pop
Evening star., 1923-09-16

were relegated to glass cases in mu-
seums. Others are East Indian.
These bIouses are subdued when they
are attached to the three-piece suit for
the street. but they do not altogether
forego their ornamental character nor
Evening star., 1923-09-16
BY FRANK G. CARPENTER.

BY FRANK G. CARPENTER.
RIGA, Latvia-
On poor German guest
This is no place for thee to rest;
what w0uldst thou in our wretched hutA
Within 10 thou cAnst not remain,
The SNAKE viii drive thee forth again.
Thou canst not stay within the yard,
For in the yard are wind and rain
Listen, / viii advise thee we'll;
Go to the bottommost part OF hell.
Where the devil makes his fret
There's the place TO cool thy ire;
For there Is neither smoke nor raini
~HIS verse is from an old folk
song of the Latvians. It gives
the feeling of the new repub-
lilo in regard to the German
Balts whose great estates have been
ooniscated by the government and
are now being divided among the
peasants. In a former letter wrote
Of this movement in Esthonia, the lit
tie republic that joins this on the
north. The same conditions prevail
here. All of the large properties are
being divided, the Baltic barons who
owned them being left only from 12o
to $50 acres out of the thousands each
had In the past.
The estates of the Balts represented
more than so per cent of the whole
country. There were hundreds of
them and their average size was more
than 5000, acres. There were many
OF 10000 acres. and some which ran
up into 10000 acres and more. The
estate of Dundaga. for instance, con-
taIned 10000 acres.
These. estates have been built up
throughout the centuries in which the
lands have been in the hands of the
BaIts. They have brought the lands
under cultivation, have scientifically
fsrmed them, introducing modern ma
chlnery and all modern agricultural
raethods. In many cases they have
built mansions where they have en-
tertained and lived like feudal lords.
the. peasants cultivating their lands
and taking somewhat the place OF the
xetainers had In the Middle Ages.
Today the barons have given up all
hope of holding their properties. Some
Evening star., 1923-09-16

sink to the level Of a sport blouse. They
may be Joined 20 the skirt to give ease
in adjustment and put the weight on
the shoulders, where most women like
it. They may be in another shade OF the
same color az the skirt, or they may be
Evening star., 1923-09-16

fiambo. antly opposed to it. Whatever
the imagination suggests as decorative
to costume can be incorporated in the
overblouse. Therein lies the danger.
Censors are needed.
Copyright, 1897
Evening star., 1923-09-16

TN fabrics there's more to reckon
l. with as novelty, such as the en-
broidered wooiens taken from Hindu
and Persian documentary designs:
the emphasis upon velvet and the in
genuity shown by its weavers. It is
embossed, embroidered, striped, ap-
piled in italian designs to chiffon or
Evening star., 1923-09-16

HAT are we going to wear
NM this autumn? If we intend |
to be in the fashion. we
will wear many things we |
Evening star., 1923-12-20
AT. OF |. APPEALS
FOR GERMAN AID
Union Members Asked to Do
nate to Keep Labor Move
ment Alive.

Relief work for organized labor in
Germany was set on foot yesterday
by the American Federation of Labor.
Members Of the federation's executive
board issued "A general appeal to
union members in this country to
help in this work. Announcement
also was made by President Samuel
Gomrers that a committee of officers
of American unions had been Gre
ated to direct the drive for and dis
trbution of funds.
In the appeal signed by Mr. Com
pcrs it is declared that economic dis
tress in Germany is leading to the
breakup of the entire union organi-
zation. Such a break up, il was
added would be far-reachiug in its
effect upon world labor prices, result
ing in Il lowering of living standards
that would influence the labor scales
in this country.
IF aid is to reach Germany. it
must come from America the ap.
peal continued. for the workers of
Europe are at present in lower eco
nomic condition than obtained pc
fore the war. Unemployment and
actual need is all too general for
Inem to make Contributor.
Must Sustain Organization.
"The American Federation of Labor
IS undertaking to raise a relief fund
for the German trade union move
ment-to be used only to maintain
that organization. If only Il skeleton
organization is sustained the vital
thing will be kept alive until some
thing of economic order is restored.
We present to you this dire need OF
the German trade union movement
confident the cry for assistance will
appeal to your Judgment and your
heart"
Reports from Maj. Gen. Henry T.
the American occupation forces in
Germany. now heading the friends
movement for relief of German chill
dren and others, the appeal said. had
painted a grave picture of distress
and poverty among the laboring
classes. Because of the fall in the
mark value national headquarters of
unions were disintegrating. trade
journals were ceaSing publication
and labor union officials We're liable
TO continue their work, it was said
Officials of the French and Belgian
labor federations and of the Interna-
tional Federation of Trade Unions
We're said to have reported the same
conditions.
The plain facts" indicated. the ap-
peal said. that if the German labor
movement is not assisted at this time
the achievements of forty years of
struggle Will be wiped out"
Evening star., 1923-12-20
TICKET PRICE TO RISE.
Rams Head Players Will Add Tax
After January s.

After the first week In January ii
war tax will be added to the price OF
all season and students season
tickets for the Rams Head Players
performances. It was announced yes
terday at the office of the organiza-
ton, 132S12 18th street northwest.
Season tickets are now selling at Sl2
for regular subscribers and Sc for
students for the six productions of
1924 The Rams Head Players are
paying the war tax only on tickets
sold before January 5, 1924.
The first performance will he given
Evening star., 1923-12-20

urged to contribute to the deficit of
the national board, so that 1t may
close its books January 1 without
debt
The board of directors will hold a
New Year reception at the Elizabeth
Somers home, 100 NJ street, from
to 6 O'Clock, on January /. The com
mittee in charge includes Mrs. Robert
Lansing, Mrs. Woodbury. Pulsifer,
Mrs. Frank Casey and Miss Elizabeth
Eastman. All members and friends
are invited.
Evening star., 1923-12-20
WILL GIVE PARTY.
Y. w. G. A. to Have Christmas
Fete at Building

The Young Women's Christian As
sociation will hold a Christmas party
In the Administration building, GA e
street northwest, this evening, be-
ginning at $50 o'clock. The girls
Will hang greens and decorate the
tree early in the evening, and at
7:45 the candle lighting, in which all
new members viii. participate, Will
take place.
This will be followed by gift bring
ing for the national board.
Each club. chapter and class, board
member and staff member has been
Evening star., 1923-12-20
HORSE BLOCKS BRIDGE

A horse belonging to resident
p street northwest fell yesterday on
Il beam of the bridge between the
car tracks, where repairs were under
way, and broke it's leg. DR.. w. p.
Collins. veterina rian, shot and killed
the animal. Traffic was delayed
while policemen and civilians labored
70 rescue the animal.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

the thanks of the residents in Barry
Farms section for the item in the
District estimates calling for grading
Of streets west of Nichols avenue
leading to Boiling Field. The resoIu-
tion was adopted at a meeting of the
association December II.
President Ellie s. Hoffman and Sec
retary Henry Braxton were the
spokesmen for the delegation. A
committee from the association ap-
peared at q hearing before the mem
Evening star., 1923-12-20

| Wednesday. January 2. "Paole and
Francesca" by Stephen Phillips. will
be the play, and will run for ten
performances daily except Sunday,
Monday and Tuesday. and with a
matinee on Saturday of each week.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

Mrs. Lillian Gilbreth. mother of
eleven children, is the possessor of
three college degrees and a country
wide reputation as an industrial en-
gineering expert. Mrs. Gilbreth has
her offices In New York and resides
at Montclair, y. j.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

instruction in domestic service in
all elementary schools for every girl
between the ages of twelve and four
teen is recommended by special
ish government to investigate do
mestic service conditions in England
Evening star., 1923-12-20

Probably the only woman con
ductor of symphony orchestra IN
America is Nine. Davenport Engbers'
who directs the Civic symphony Or
chestra of Seattle, of which she also
was the founder
Evening star., 1923-12-20
THANK BUDGET DIRECTOR.
Barry Farms Citizens Grateful for
Street Grading.

A delegation from the Barry Farms
Citizens Association today called at
the. Office Of Brig. Gen. H. NJ. Lord,
director of the budget, and left with
Evening star., 1923-12-20

bers of the budget bureau October IL
to urge this Improvement, for which
an appropriation Of s21 900 was rec
commended.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

Queen Mary delights in antique
furniture and Is said to be quite an
expert when it comes to judging and
valufnC It.
Evening star., 1923-12-20
Coat Sweaters, S1.69

oxford gray coat sweaters, with
heavy rope stitch. made with shawl
collar Knit for comfortable fit and
long service.
Evening star., 1923-12-20
Coat Sweaters, Sl.49

Mems heavy knit sweaters, with the
desired rope stitch; neck. In the
popular oxford gray. practical gar
ment al low cost
Evening star., 1923-12-20

Little Xmas needs. including 10
sheet rolls of Holly Paper 1or
,rranping gifts, package Christ
mas Seals. package Christmas
rags. Gummed Paper Ribbon, Con-
-ertible Holder for mailing coins,
balls of Red Cord, etc. 10c each.
Evening star., 1923-12-20
All.Wool Sweaters, SS.9S

Mems coat sweaters, with large
shawl collar and two knit-in pockets.
Collars are knit in three pieces. assur-
ing perfect fit Colors as above.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

A genuine valuo surprise - for
almost anyone would guess the
price as very much higher. Big.
Burly Blanket-plaid MacklnaW $
thick enough TO defy any winter
blast. Superbly tailored through
ont. All seams bound inside.
Made with big. convertible collar:
two big flap pockets and two mum
rockets. Inverted pleat in back.
All sizes S TO Il.
Evening star., 1923-12-20

Ivory-like Picture Frames, Talcum
Holders, Jewel Cases. Perfume Bot
ties. Manicure Articles. Correspond
ence Cards, Toilet Waters, Incense
Burner Stationery, Perfumery,
Smelling Salts, Manicure Sets, Ash
Trays and Glass Powder Jars with
puffs.-Toilet Goods Dept.
The Winslow mail., 1923-06-22
NEW SANTA FE TREASURER
NAMED

Clarence w. Jones, for the past 35
years in the service OF the Santa Fe
Railroad, has been named by the
Board of Directors at a meeting held
in New York City as Assistant Trea-
surer and Secretary of the Coast and
Grand Canyon Lines to succeed Cod
fred Holterhof Jr., who died in Los
Angeles Nay 18th last
Jones for several years has been
holding the position Of Deputy As
sistant Treasurer. That position will
be filled by A. o. Appel, at present
Cashier of the Lines.
The new Assistant Treasurer was
born in New Mexico and entered the
service with the Treasury Department
at Albuquerque while still a young
man. He won frequent promotion
and in 1897 came oLos Angeles and
took up the duties as Paymaster. He
then in turn was named Cashier, and
seven years ago became Mr.. Hotter
hoff's chief assistant in the Treasur-
er's office
other changes which have been re
commended and now awaiting appro-
val will advance w, H. Herman from
the present position Of Paymaster to
Cashier, and H. B. Coley, now As
sistant Cashier, will be the new Pay
master
All the foregoing have been with
the Santa Fe' for several years.
The Winslow mail., 1923-06-22
PRODUCTION OF LUMBER IN
ARIZONA AND NEW MEX

Albuquerque, New Mexico, June
10. 1923-Preliminary statistics just
released by the Department of Com
merce show an increase of 31-1 per
cent in the lumber cut of Arizona and
New Mexico during 1922 over the
year 1921 These figures are result
Of a careful census Of the lumber
manufacturing industries of the two
states conducted by the Bureau OF
the Census acting in cooperation
with the Forest Service.
New Mexico's output increased
1920 while that of Arizona. increas-
ed 915%o. For 1922, 72 mills in New
Mexico report cut OF 26.876,00O
feet of lumber, while 20 mills in
Arizona report a cut of 88932, coo
feet. According to Forest Service
estimates approximately 249o of the
lumber cut in New Mexico came
from the national forests. The nat
ional forests of Arizona contributed
a little more than half of the pro-
duction of that state.
Over $50 of the timber cut in the
two states was western yellow pine
the balance being made up of Dou-
glas fir, white fir spruce, etc.
Ih6 gam IN IumD9F pfOuuct1oH
during 1922 is attributed by the
Forest Service to better general lum-
Der market conditions throughout
the country and to better bus ness
conditions in the two states which
are rapidly recovering from the ser
ioua depression of 1921 Twelve
small mills in New Mexico and six
in Arizona are reported as being idle
as compared with 81 idle mills in
the two states during the previous
year. At the present time practical
" all mills Of any consequence are
being run full time. For 1923 the
cut viii probably show further in
crease.
The Winslow mail., 1923-06-22
PHOENIX TO BE on NEW
PHONE LINE TO COAST

A second tranScOntinental telephone
line from Denver to Los Angeles viii
be built Immediately, at cost of
$2,000000, according to an announce
ment made by officials of the Noun
tain States Telephone and Telegraph
company The new line should be
in operation by next January, the
announcement said.
The route will be through Colora-
do Springs, Pueblo, Trinidad, Ration,
Las Vegas, Albuquerque, near Santa
Fe, Socorro, Las Cruces, FL Paso,
Deming, Lordsburg, Tucson, Phoe-
nix and Yuma Central office equip
ment for the new line will be in
stalled at Trinidad Las Vegas, Albu-
querque, Ell Paso, Tucson, Phoenix
and Yuma.
The first unit build will be between
Phoenix and Yuma. The new circuit
will be constructed by the Mountain
States company in connection with
the long distance department of the
American Telephone and Telegraph
company The California section of
the line will be built by the Pacific
Telephone and Telegraph company,
in conjunction with the A. T. & T.
com pany.
The new circuit will necessitate
the construction of a new pole line
betweeni Denver and Colorado Springs
the village of San Antonio and Rim
con in New Mexico, and from Mari
copa to Phoenix in Arizona. The cir
cult will be connected in Denver with
circuits extending to the east.
Telephone officials say construc-
ton of the new circuit group will not
only relieve the heavy overland on
the transcontinental route, but will
give assurance of continual service
under virtually any storm conditions.
1t will be arranged so that it can tie
up with another proposed circuit to
be built from New Orleans and Dali
las to Ell Paso.