The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-04-09
Paris Dressmakers Favor Short Coated
Simple Slxirted Suits for Morning, Wear
In Some Models the Jacket Is
Of One Material and Color
and Skirt of Another. i.

Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.
r L may be said that in our spring
street models the couturiers have
= evolved a real Paris fashion,
such as we used to have in the days
before eclecticism was the goddess of
the mode, when the women in all the
capitals Of the world wore the same
pulled sleeves at the same time.
| 1t has been noticed in recent events
of the social life of Paris that evening
dress has been crystalizing into a
standard type-a draping of some sup
pie material, which is SO far ahead of
all other gowns in popularity that 1t
might we'll be called the evening fash
ion of the Parisienne. And now a
definite morning fashion as well, con-
sisting of short coated, simple skirted
tailleur. differently interpreted as to
detail but recognized as belonging to
the same sartorial family.
Almost every house in Paris makes
the same type of suit, sometimes pre-
serving the belt which was a salient
! feature of the winter model. and again
displaying considerable ingenuity in
avoiding its use. Frequently, a short
! hanging cape. little more than large
| collar, is added to the short belted coat
in the back. tpremet adds soft sashes
of matching crepe de chine to straight
! suits with delightful effect. Jean
Patou, whose tailored things are excel
lent, ends some OF his short coats In
sasles, attached to the hloused top
parts and tied at the side with long
ends. He also uses shirring In tight
band about the hips in many models.
In contrast to these sasied and belted
models is the coat, which hangs loose,
either perfectly straight or with some
flare. Lanvin makes a whole series OF
most youthful tailleurs inspired by the
costumes of the Breton peasant, with
coats entirely embroidered IN discreet
tones. With these coats she offers
blouses with wide white organdie col
lars. puritan" we call them in Amer
lea. often adding narrow riopon
cravat. Cravats are liked by many de-
signers, tying the turnover collar or the
odd little standing collar, for which pop
ularity has been promised and which
has been decidedly favored In all coiiec-
tons. This type Of coat IL sometimes al
most hip length, and again assumes the
short proportions Of an Elton jacket
Jenny is making the first type IN tar
feta to complete three piece SUITS OF
crepe or serge. and oddly enough the
tarfeta is entirely embroidered in eyelet
embroidery. She shows some short
coated suits, but also emphasizes
longer Jacket on the lines Of Chinese
mandarin coat. perfectly straight, with
vide sleeves. This is sometimes sep
arate garment or sometimes completes
frock.
Combination Of Materials.
In less strictly tailored models we
often find the jacket OF one material ana
! color and the skirt OF another. Poiret
lixes this idea. for his entire collection
features the combination of several ma
| terials and colors in the same costume.
| Worth contrives an odd ana orisiha'
| effect in a long black satin coat py en-
tireIy covering the silken material WIN
heavy black lace. Every house In Paris
makes silk suits using crepes In all sorts
| IF weayes. nearly always on the three
niece idea, the frock underneath ire
| auently having short sleeves to make IL
particularly appropriate and comfortable
| for afternoon dancing. Sometimes the
/ frocl, is all of one material or It's top
part may be of georgettc crepe or crepe
lie Chine. either matching or contrasting
in color.
cludc wool rep, a favorite almost every :
where, serge, kasha, and all Sorts o.
crepes. both silk and wool. Lanvin uses
,,,rcy kasha and makes suits OF natura.
colored tussors trimmed win 'one ~
Jouv in Indian patterns. Tweed, SO pop
Mar in America, is reserved in Paris Tor
the houses who specialize in strlcty
tailored models. such as O'Rossen.
chanel and Molyneux both use plaids, the
FORMER in unusual light color comoina-
tions. the latter in browns and Srays. 70
wake canes for boyish looking travelling
| .,,its Gabardine is favored by many
| houses and there is a ribbed material
named "cote dc cheval" which resenpies
what we used to call Bedford cora put
is softer in texture. 80.
The three piece suit and the sur
which is completed with q plouse US
| nrte for favor In general. 1t may ne
said that the more strictly tailored
tvnes have blouses. while those OF 2
l;,tIe more "habille" character are OF
the so-called three piece variety
The frocks of these latter sometimes
have short sleeves, but dresses designed
for morning wear usually feature the
long tight sleeves. Almost all the oe
slsners have made much OF the lingerie
details which add so greatly 10 tne
FRESHNESS. OF simple costume. some
coat dresses have the appearance OF
serge or rep redlngotes, open all up one
side over a complete frock OF washable
material. pique. cretonne or Rodier
heavy white linen embroidered IN
color. usually blue. At this time. We
expect to find great many simple
frocks of foulard. offered for morning
wear. but, for some reason. far less OF
this material has been used In Paris
this spring, except when combined with
serge.
A good many houses complete morn
Ing frocks with coats which are so long
and so important that they can be used
as separate garments II necessary.
others prefer capcs. but. while quite a
number of suits have adopted capes OF
varying lengths. which are removable
at will, the cape as an integral part OF
the costume IL usually reserved for
afternoon dress.
BrafdinE Extensively Used.
Morning things are not very much
trimmed. The material itself Is fire.
ouently made into pin tucks. shirrings.
tight groups of gathers. hemstitching.
even on serge, and groups OF pleating.
which are found everywhere. Jenny
IL faithful 10 her intcrlaced bias bands.
OF which she made so much in her mid
season collection. Embroidery has not