The New York herald., 1922-03-05


ming - "Lohengrin," with Mines
Easton and Claussen, Messrs. Sem
bach and Whitehill.
are simple and attractive. One Of
white organdie with open work en-
broidery is shown with a black taffeta
under dress and another of yellow or
candle. A feature Is made of handsome
evening wraps of soft brocades en-
broidered in jewels or plain but always
on good lines, and the topcoats are par
ticularly smart in their cuts.
The Madeleine ct Madeleine verdict on
the spring fashions is of marked inter-
est inasmuch as the house is one Of
the most Individual in aPris. The notes
OF the season are interpreted in a man
ner that is Madeleine ct Madeleine
throughout the collection. The Made
leine skirts are longer than those of
last season In all instances. and with
the low waist line and the drapery
made to exaggerate the long lines. the
very slender effect that has always
been a feature OF the house is main
tanned. Broad girdles, snugly fitted
around the hips and handsomely en-
broidered in q huge motif as stom-
acher, give an Oriental effect to the
models and are an aid to the slender
lines.
There is always some curious cut to
the models of this house which makes
them Of greater interest to the Ameri-
can buyer because they are intricate to
copy. fact which helps them to keep
their individuality. The curious cut
this season lies In a bolero effect in
the bodices. II is difficult to say where
the bolero begins and where it ends
but many OF the dresses have these
little box boleros which look like sepa-
rate Jackets from the back and have a
way of disappearing in the front so
the frock may live UP to its name as
a one piece dress. Afternoon dresses
Of laces and various types of soft crepes
are cut In this fashion.
A new color, called the Madeleine
pink. Is effectively introduced and runs
throughout the collection in dresses and
wraps and in embroideries. 1t is dark
tone Of peach color and Is most strik-
ing when combined with black. A pop
Ular model Is of this color in crepe, witn
a deep band OF Irish crochet lace tinted
this same pink around the skirt ana
inserts OF the same Madeleine pink lace
Nm the bodice. The same pink appears
IN an embroidered dragon as a stom-
acher on a black girdle. with a black
lace dress. Another black chantillv
dress is made over a satin under dress
of this pink IT appears again In
handsome satin brocade In a Chinese
design, and in various other models Of
crepe.
Irish Crochet n Feature.
Irish crochet is another feature OF the
collection. 1t is used as trimming In
many models and there is a whole dress
of It in white over white broadcloth
1t Is made perfectly straight. with
sleeves which are broad at the wrist
and a brick red satin belt around the
hips Draped crepe dresses figure ex-
tensively in the collection. There Is one
OF flame red. with the drapery caught
up on one hip and held with a fancy
ornament and two long ends. which are
extensions from the hip drapery. cross
In the back and are attached to the
shoulders. Many of the draped models
have some new cut OF this sort. which
i,akes them intricate and different from
the majority OF draped dresses.
There also are many straight dresses
or crepe, worn with capes of the same
crepe, which have big ostrich feather
boas around the neck and down the
front which Is another distinct Made
le.ne feature. There is one of this type
In navy blue crepe. with the ostrica
boa of the same color. and another ia
beige and gray. and one In white crepe,
with black feather boa, and yet an
other In a white satin cape, with black
ostrich fringe. worn with a white satin
evening frock, with black side panels,
embroidered In rhinestones.
Evening dresses also are made Of
metal cloth and brocades and very
gracefully drsped on long straight lines.
Taffetas frocks of bright color, VITA
very full skirts, gathered on to a snug!y
fitted bodice. typically Of the 1850 period.
are featured for the jeune file. and
youthful dresses also appear In beaded
tulle.
Handsome iaces other than the Irish
crochet are strongly featured and sew
cral lace capes are to be noted.
Several new dressmakers are on the
list for the spring fashion season and
are not only having their influences as
far as styles are concerned. but are
serving very good purpose in making
some attempt to bring down the exorbi-
tant prices. The Maison Yteb, which
opened its doors at Ia Rue Royal last
September, Is showing a collection or
models which should attract interested
attention. 1t can not be counted among
the big, pretentious collections OF several
hundred models, but II is a display of
some fifty or sixty dresses, all Of which
are OF the wearablc types and of good
taste. All of the notes OF the season
are carried out in simple lines. the low
waist line, the draped effects and sleeves
of curious cuts. but no one of them is In
any way exaggerated.
A speciality is made of sports costumes
Of kasha cloth. White kasha is a par
ticular favorite and another fabric on
the same order OF the kasha In an
Indian design Is extensively used. The
fact that Mime. Yteb is OF Russian birth
"A. n.
tails. Belts embroidered In straw by
Russian women are features and add n
distinctive little touch 20 the models.
and other Russian embroideries are TO
be noted. A brown kasha frock is cn-
hroidered all over In black In the cross
stitch, which Is distinctly Russian.