Evening journal., 1922-08-26
It's Modern Clothes That
Make the Modern Woman
BY HEDDA HOYT
written for the United Press)


undergoing a devastating change in
manners and morals need not place
the blame on the ballot box, the Gig
arctic or the fact that women are
doing work that in olden days was
accomplished only by men. It's
dress that changes women or seems
to change them.
Why do you think that our Grand
mothers were prim7 Because they
didn't. vote. didn't smoke or didn't
do mems work. Ahl No. They
we're prim because their backs were
held in perpendicular angle with
heavy whalebones, because their
necks were held rigid with high
boned collars. Their crinelins creak-
ed IL they moved about much and
their hoop skirts kept them from
crossing their legs in public.
Women of today are as care-free
as their clothing permits them to
be. They wear little or no support
Ah01N An0 NdA1As ntNhH dtt
bare; their trim ankle unhampered
| by layers of starched petticoats. In
the days when the widest parlor
game was Button, Button, who's
got the button7" women were like
butterflies confined in stiff cocoons.
Today Il would be a difficult task
indeed to find the buttons OF the
feminine wardrobe. Dresses slap
over the head confined about the
waist by an elastic band and petit
coat and undergarments go on the
same way. An exray OF the modern
woman would show no hooks, pins.
or hardware accessories.
Is II any wonder that we feel like
oavorting about with tho one-step
or the Tangle Foot2 How can a
girl act with the property of her
Grandmother Is one OF the steazy,
clinging slip-off gowns OF today7 It's
the gown that changes. Not the wo-
man. Put us back in stays, bustles,
hoops and petticoats and see wheth-
er we still possess that free-and-
easy manner that the .reformers
roam about.
The Fall silhouette Will not be
greatly varied from the silhouette
OF the present. Skirts will be longer
for street and evening wear although
sport skirts show no desire to be
heightened. Sleeves are inconsist-
ent in their demands. Some gown
houses are sponsoring the long,
tight-fitting sleeves, while others
declare the long, loose Chinese
sleeve the correct thing. One can't
go wrong on sleeves nowadays. They
may be long. short or Indifferent.
Circular skirts are being used on
many Of the smart new models but
we always look upon the circular af-
fairs rather obviously for they never
absolutely rule. Because of their
tendency to sag. The three piece
suit, consisting Of the one-piece dress
and coat will continue In popular
ity and they are even more beautiful
in the Fall materials than they were
in the Summer fabrics. Brown in
many new soft shades will be popu-
lar for the street suit.
Buckles are playing an important
part IN the wardrobe OF Milady.
Some OF them look as though the en-
tire business OF holding up the wrap
around skirt fell TO them. The skirt
seems to-be Just a long piece OF ma
terial raped about the body and |
depending entirely upon the buckle
to hold It in place. In some OF
the more extreme models one won- |
ders whether a large, gilt paddock |
wouldn't be safer.
There's no consistency in the |
shoe business any more" conhded a
Fifth avenue salesman as he fitted /
my number four into a number
three last. "Tall vamps come in
and ask for short vamps and short
vamps insist on long vamps. You
can't tell the girls anything nova
lays.
The new felt hats are velvety in
texture resembling suede and duve-
yne. They are both small and wide
orimmed and usually match the
smart little jackets that are so popu-
ar lust now. A short mannish
Jacket Is made of a soft blue camels
lair cloth and worn with a wide
lrimmed felt hat of the same blue
with cluster of dull pink
leather roses. Colorful hats are
ihown in numbers and it is very
probably that the coming months
will see a great many of them.
\ Three cornered pieces OF rubber
zed silks are worn over the snug
lthng bathing caps at most OF the
Exclusive beaches this season. Some
II them are just pieces of beauti-
ully dyed batiks. Cretonne capes
ire very popular and while the color
tote is noticed everywhere in these
apes and caps the one-piece suit
continues In navy blues or black.
Ialf socks as well as long stock
ngs are not being worn at the
,enches. Bare legs with a brown
sh cast are well thought of. As the
eason progresses IL Is presumed that
,rowns in even darker tones will be
he vogue. Which only goes to
,rove that there Is nothing new un-
ler the sun.
There is one thing that you can
lot ask the shirtwaist salesman now
ldays and that is "How's business?"
One of the most widely known men
II the business says that the shirt
waist salesman will soon be classed
With other birds that are extinct.
Even the servant girls refuse to