The New York herald., 1922-08-20
Midsummer Millinery Has Not
Been So Reactionary for
Many Seasons.
Copyright. 1912. by Vogue. New York.

Copyright 1922. by Vogue. New York.
n n IDSUMMER millinery has not
MI been so reactionary for many
seasons, for the modistes,
instead of striving for radical original
ity. have gone frankly back into the
recent past to an epoch sartorially
more complicated but politically far
more simple than our own The
women of 1922 may have relativity on
the brain, but on their heads the ma
jority of them will have the capelines
of their grandmothers. the headgear
of day when the sweetly feminine
was the ideal and fainting at the sight
OF mouse was the favorite form of
exercise. Women were SO unimpor-
tant politically that they had to force
themselves upon the attention of the
world somehow or other so they wore
skirts and hats of such immense pro-
portions that they at least succeeded
in being in everybodys way.
During the war European women
found themselves a factor to be reck-
oned with. even politically. lmmedi-
ately after 1t, therefore, they thought
that they might safely go about in slips
OF black dresses. with little inconspicu-
Gus sensible" hats pulled down over
their eyes. But ''out of sight out of
mind" is an extremely wise proverb
and 1t is not perhaps without signifi-
canoe that the women who influence the
mode are beginning at last to turn their
attention toward the revival of more
complicated and important fashions, the
| first symptom of which is the return of
fha ff,ry,N hat ,,,I he - -.
chamingly feminine capeline of the Sec
ond Empire.
Oddly enough. and disconcerting for
those who believe that the millinery of
one season gives us the surest forecast
! indication of the clothes of the next. 1t
Is not to the period OF the Second EN-
pire that the creators of the mode seem
to be thinking. They are giving signs
| of interest in the period that succeeded
1.-THE fashions of 1875 to 1SSO-the
characteristics of which were the tie
back. the waterfall, the Grecian bend.
the chignon and. later and more ridicu-
lous still, the hustle.
Attempt to Revive Bustle.
Two years ago there was a mild at
1 tempt at revival of the hustle, and 1t
met with flat and ignominious failure.
| 1t is not probable, therefore, that this
particular feature of the modes of late
'70s and early 80s will be tried again
soon. But that we shall have a long
slender. almost princesse line. with ruf-
files about our feet, bell-like silhouette
and possibly some laveuse drapery.
seems highly probable.
Hats OF this period were frequently
Of the flower pot persuasion. high and
narrow. with the trimming placed
directly up the front. or they were larger.
covered with trimming and turned up
on one side often with a cache-pegn.
We shall watch eagerly for the first
signs OF such models in the advance
autumn millinery. and already we begin
to see a tendency toward the high and
narrow trimming which may very easily
be a precursor OF these styles. There
Is also a foreshadowing of the long
neglected cache-peigne In two OF th3
models illustrated on these pages and
| coming from different houses.
But for the moment the hats of mid
| summer are making charming frames
for charming faces, and they must give
4 to a summer fete the birdseye view OF
i a great flower garden of moving bios
SONS with a play Of delicate color, such
I as some giant Kaleidoscope might give.
II Is the more delicate. howerliEc
shades which are chosen for these pic
turesque hats, the mauves. the roses. the
/ cyclamen and fuchsia tones, the clear
bright yellows. with almond green. pale
beige and biscuit tlnts or dainty gray,
with plenty OF white and here and there
| a note Of black for contrast. There Is
| even an occasional note OF clear light
blue always a dangerous color for any
| one over sixteen. and even now more
often seen in the milliners' salons than
on the heads Of their clients. The whole
range of golden browns are also seen,
for these shades are irresistibly becom-
ing.
AS long ago as last February Vogue
| predicted the great favor accorded to
| the light hat made Of horsehair with
| the TRANSPARENT brim which Is so fragile
| that the trimming which Is placed upon
II can be plainly seen through 1t from
| the under side.
/ Ms.sing of Flower Trimming.
A charming idea lately seen on wide
hats OF colored straw, crepe or horse
| hair Is the massing of the flower trim
| ming at the back. A model which
charmed the eyes was In hortensia blue
| crepe, with a mass OF satin hortensia
| blossoms placed across the back of the
brim close 10 tho crown. The fancy for
placing the trimming on the brim and
leaving the lines of the crown perfectly
| plain makes IL necessary to make sure
| that these lines suit the shape Of the
| head, for they are not disguised In any
| way. Too small crown will make the
4 face look broad, while an exaggeration
i OF the size will give a "topheavy" Look
/ which is strictly TO be avoided In a
| summery ensemble. These are the fine
| points OF millinery which are so wei.
understood by the modiste Of reputation