The New York herald., 1922-10-08

Americans saw them for the first time in
Deauville and again in England when
their country sport season began.
The suede jackets were smart and
they continue to be, although the French
woman is substituting them with heavy
brocades. Rodier. the weaver, who de-
termines over here what woolens and
cloths are to be worn, invented a black
matelasse fabric decorated with small.
fiat bouquets resembling embroidery
after the Chinese fashion. Women pre-
fer this to suede merely because they
have worn the latter for eight months.
Deauville also launched the genuine
leather coat. and it is just this kind of
wrap one gets in English sport clothes.
1t Is really a protection against their
climate. and this season they have
needed all the leather and fur they could
muster for the rain--it has rained in
Europe since June 1.
The leather coat is not in bright
colors 1t is safe to say that it keeps
to brown, dull, soft brown that lends
itself to any color of costume. 1t
touches the knees, it is straight in
line. it has pockets. and a high collar
that reaches to the chin. 1t has an en-
tirely super glazed surface made of
fabric that resembles isinglass. The
leather coat Is not new to Americans,
but they will be glad to know it is
sponsored by London and Paris. They
can begin to wear ii again.
There Is no end to leather this season.
1t is used in the place of fur. 1t is cut
into pieces to decorate Jackets and
capes, it is dyed in any color and put
on frocks in bold patterns. No dress
| maker over here omits it. Red is the
favorite color. 1t goes into collars, into
bindings. into pockets. 1t appears in
hats for the street as we'll as sports.
England Puts Ont Capes.
France appears to have had her fill
of capes. She has dropped them from
her collection. Some of her coats are
reminiscent of capes, but they are quite
different from the wrap that has pre-.
vailed for five years.
England, on the other hand. appears
to have no idea of giving up capes
] They are a part of her traditional sports
costume and no nation can cling more
firmly to tradition. There's a new kind
of cape and coat combined in London
which Americans like. 1t is Of black
and white checked wool, soft but pro-
tectively warm. The coat begins as a
, coat, but it ends as a cape. 1t is a
clever combination of the two wraps
| The cape is cut to deep points over each
arm and embroidered with triangles OF
red serge and leather. The lining Is
red serge.
With this wrap goes frock which is
as straight and simple as a chemise
| Its edges are bound with red serge and
| a wide belt of the same is placed about
| the hips, finished with q red leather
| buckle. A short red leather jacket can
be worn over this frock instead of the
! long wrap.
There's another cape offered to Ameri
cans, which is a part of a costume
also. 1t is of English blue tweed. lonl
and circular with high turnover
collar fastened with white pearl
buttons. There is diamond shaped
! decoration arranged from bands of the
| tweed itself; two are placed in front anc
| one at the back. under the shoulders.
| The skirt that goes with this wrap Il
| of tweed. but the longwaisted blouse
is OF heavy white flannel. This fabri,
was introduced for blouses in Franc
last year, II came to America and hat
some popularity. but not enough. a!
London emphasizes II for sports. II will
probably be seen wherever American
women foregather for pleasure in tn,
autumn This special blouse has tn,
decoration which rules the Frencl
sport blouses; square panel outlined
| by strips of the skirt material. 1t Il
buttoned to the skirt in the manner in
troduced In America two years ago. On,
| saw Il at Palm Beach in the bes
tailored costumes. wonder VIII,
America does not wear the amazing
variety of costume blouses one find.