The New York herald., 1922-04-02
Plain, Simple, Untrimmed
Frock Is a Thing Reserved
for the Little Dinner.

copyrisht, 1872. by Vogue. New York.
@ UMPTUOUS is the word which
best describes tho conglomerate
evening mode as shown in the
spring fashions. According to the
couturiers of Paris. the perfectly plain,
simple crepe frock, black as often as
not and quite untrinmed. Is thing to
be reserved for the little dinner "sans
ceremonie," and a far more elaborate
evening mode has taken its place for
important occasions. M
This IS serious news for the I'M
poverished aristocrat. and 1t is quite
likely that she may continue to wear
her simple dresses and let her family
jewels add that note Of distinction to
Ier attire which only they can give.
AS this is to be a lace season she
also has the resource of drawing on
her filmy treasures, and she will be
confronted with the difficult decision
ito cut, or not to cut-that is the
question"
The line for evening Is definitely es-
tablished as a slender, long, draped
one, often with that effect of "swath-
Ing which In 30 perilous for any but
a good figure. Trains appear on most
dresses. although there are still some
beaded models which have straight
skirts without trains. An odd note IL
the placing of these trains, now In the
back, now on ono side or the other. or.
again. directly In the front Beading
remains the trimming par excellence.
particularly crystal beading. Crepes.
especially the excessively popular georg-
ette. lead perhaps as fabrics, but there
~ much lace. a good deal OF chiffon land
some lame and satin. Taffeta Is seldom
used
Rose Shades Lead Colors.
The rose shades, from flesh to dark
red, flame. coral and cyclamen, lead as
colors. but there are numerous combina-
tfons of black and white used with the
sbove, although in this case they are
Nally enlivened with bright effects of
- ling. There are also the nlauves.
verging sometimes so closely on pink a.
tc be more readily included among the
rose shades; some yellow, some green.
as well as some of the tortoise shell
shades. Lanvin remains faithful to her
prediction for powder blue.
The bouffant skirt Is almost dead for
there are not more than a dozen ex-
srnples of 1t in all the collections.
Doucet. who is the exponent Of the robe
de style. shows only two wide slrlrted
models. one In bright pink satin cire
with daring bright blue sash of MORE
the other Of gold lame with Jet bretelles
and black lace pantalettes
A general observation shows that the
French dressmakers reserve their wide
skirts for young girls models. Lanvin
shows new series of Second Empire
gowns with enormous skirts Of shot taf-
feta perfectly plain and touching the
ground all around. The bodices are
scanned with off the shoulder necklines
and have almost no trimming at all ex-
cept fnr q bunch Of bead edged ribbon
in thefront with ends that hang to the
floor.
Jenny wells tortoise shell coIored
orepe, embroidered all over in crystals
with an enormously full skirt of vapor-
Gus brown tulle. The net is so fragile
and transparent that the effect remains
straight. Otherwise, the lines are either
swathed about the figure or are as
straight as the proverbfal string. But
they never hamper movement. for great
pains have been taken to give closely
wrapped effect without inconvenient mar
rowness. This Is all the more notable
because the skirt Is invariably long for
weight and the difficulty Of manage
Tnent.
strnfght and slender Gowns.
Jenny is ono OF the houses showing
. great deal or satin. Most Of her eve
ming gowns are long, straight sheaths,
often entirely beaded. with bright color
tulle draperies or with velvet ribbons
used in odd ways. Her Greek line con-
I~xx.A til -.
being included In the models exploiting
n. In fact the general effect OF the
Jenny evening gowns Is distinctly
straight and slender. with the fullness
at the waist OF the draped gowns held
by means OF square patches OF gathers
placed where they will he most telling.
Laces. black or yellow, beaded and made
over color. are n strong note. There IS
a striking number OF gorgeous gowns
entirely beaded in crystals and hung
with lengths OF coiorcd tiille.
A very lovely model IS a sheath OF
white moire. untrimmed except for q
train of scarlet tulle. sumptuous
white satin gown is entirely embroid-
arcd IN gold thread. completed by cape
of gold tissue, which Is worked In coli
orful Chinese dragons and finished with
nm immense collar OF gold lace. For
less formal gowns. tho round necltline
IL universal. the top part Of fire lace
nc IN sort Of yoke running over the
tops OF the arms. Not even very formal
gowns are exaggeretedly decollete this
season.
As was 10 be expected. the evening
gowns az worth's were most Impressive.
The Greek or swathed line was invari-
abie---not one wide skirt being found.
The new neciline. a deep oval flled In
with a iat piece OF the material OF the
- - A ~ -.