The New York herald., 1922-06-04

Europe in spring when the snow
drifts know the careless attitude to-
ward new clothes. One just says
whats the use?" and puts on wEat is
comfortable.
So in Paris during the weeks when
it should have been warm and sun
bathed it has rained. then again
rained. until American tourists have
fled to Italy. where they found it quite
as bad. Those who delayed sailing from
America until there was guaranty
that warm and bright weather was
| impending feel jubilant. Snugly en-
veloped in a wonderful spring at
home. they send jeering letters TO those
who tried to be the first to put the
impetus into the sensational Ameri-
can season in Europe. But as every
one seems to be going abroad and
| fears that the American continent
will be bodily transferred to France if
the exodus continues, it is no longer
possible to be Indifferent to what is
worn in Paris.
1t is not reassurlng to say that as
far as the season has gone the only
startling bits of costumery are brilliant
jackets and bright hats. The milliners
are having a good showing The dress
makers are in the doldrums.
The New Fashion for Suede Coats.
1t was at the races that the French
appeared in short Jackets of bright coll
ored suede as substitute for peltry.
Cheruit. conservative house, launched
a number of these garments, and its pa
/ IN tha 90
dress. wore them in the open. These
were initiated in kasha. In heavy crepe,
| in the newly accepted cloaky patterns.
| These latter crinkle the fabric as though
it were soaked and not ironed. Ermine
also made its appearance. Monkey
fringe trimmed 1t, for the French con-
tinue this ugly fur as though 1t had
beauty and grace.
The forerunner of the suede jacket
was the soft leather one sent out by
Poiret last February. The new ones are
more supple they are like velvet. They
have little weight. no appearance of
bulk, yet are said to be sufficiently
warm to withstand the wintry winds
that have blown In France since March
They are green, horizon blue, fog gray
navy blue, flag red. pale leaf brown and
warm beige. Some are belted low,
others are held In to the hips by tight
band.
The manner of their fastening seems
to give the drcssmakers slight concern.
| Possibly one button does the work.
Again surplice collar holds the fronts
in place and the belt does the rest.
Separate Jackets Run Riot.
1t is an Ill wind that blows no one
good, is the maxim OF the Paris dress
makers, referring to the cold and siren
uous atmosphere which contained a
promise of disaster. IL Is too damp and
| chill for one piece frocks, they saw,
then accept a new kind of garment
/ SO the bright and ingenious short coat
was launched. II will stick. Hot
weather will probably see IL at the
beaches, where the vast horde OF Amer
4 lean tourists have already engaged
places TO see the sights.
/ If we do not get into these suede
| and ermine jackets at present, Il is ccr-
tain that we are taking up the cloth
kind with enthusiasm They fill a need.
| They meet necessity
The long coat Is heavy. the cape
blows In the wind and needs frequent
manipulation. but the short jacket pre-
sents no obstacles to comfort. IT takes
the place Of the sweater It relegates
| the latter to the house the fields Of
| sport. the country. The colorful Jacket
has no limits set upon It's appearance.
II fills the streets. II also makes pos
sible the use OF the separate skirt and