The New York herald., 1922-02-19
Metal Lace Is Featured and
Surprising Amount of Os-
trich Trimming Used.

QlCate gave, curing january,
Il their annual ball at the Hotel
Continental, for the benefit of the ap-
prentices and sewers whose work is
so essential to the industry. To it all
leading houses sent mannequins,
dressed in what lad been their mos
successful models, while others created
for the occasion special gowns, eX-
pressive of their latest and best ideas.
The ball, coming as it does, just few
weeks before the big February. open
ings, is believed to establish the eve
ming mode, as models made specially
for it are certain to appear later in
the spring collections.
Remarkable uniformity was notice
able in the dresses. The bouffant
skirt yielded to a slender model, long
wasted draped and with train.
Skirts were very long. though often
lifted at one point; hem lines con-
tinued uneven; there were no sleeves,
and the decolletage was moderate.
Trimming was rather more in evil
dence than it has been heretofore.
The ensemble of the ball was color
full in the extreme. White was the
most important color, followed closely
by red, odd pink shades, green and
mauve. There was much silver, some
gold and many gowns entirely beaded
in crystals, for the latter is really
what the mode of the moment most
demands.
Several lovely dresses appeared in
what might be called cheerful black,
that is black with silver or crystal en-
broidery, or hung with long diamond
chains. Though dressmakers may have
decided definitely that black Is finished
for evening they realize that some Of
their clients will continue to ask for it
and this is the concession made to the
demand
Materials included all brocades both
metal and mixed silk. crepe satin and
some satin messaline. Metal lace was
featured. but colored silk laces were
absent, for they are reserved by the
French dressmakers for formal after
noon wear. a surprising amount of os-
tIlch was used for trimming.
Worth and Poiret were conspicuous
by the number of new models which
they prepared for the event. Worth ex-
plotted in the majority of his gowns the
accepted straight, draped silhouette,
though he did show one very full dress
which had much interest because of the
material used. 1t was in cloth of gold.
quilted all over with a. diamond pattern,
every other one centering a motif which
resembled the eye of a peacock feather.
This quilting made the golden tissue al
ngf CT nd af1 -tx
teenth century material, and clthoug'i
there we're no hoops used the slightly
rar niered hips remained widely dis
tended. rope of beads composed the
Sirdle and were repeated i'm the shoul-
der straps; a diadem of light green
stones was placed on the blonde head
Of ne mannequn.
roiret as usual. showed marked orig
inality. One of his most exquisite crea-
ticns was Of white crepe marocain en-
broidered I'm cube-shaped crystal beads
worked in horringbone fashion. The
embroidery of the long walsted corsage
RECALLED the breastplate of Minerva, and
from IL the skirt draped i'm long clas-
sical lines. Poiret emphasized the note
Of white again in a brilliant gown made
OF the new silver lame, with sleeves OF
strass and crystal beads, held at the
elbow with three rows of diamonds, to
which we're attached drop pearls of
L. rye proportions.
Many headdresses were worn. but
quite as many heads appeared un-
adorned. The hair was always drawn
back severely from the forehead. show
Ing the ears, and gathered in small
knot in the middle Of the head at the
be ck or low on the neck.
Except for the exaggerated bouffanl
taffeias and moires OF the dance frock
the usual daytime costume follows tue
conservatively straight. urbrokcn lines
There Is no limit. hov ever. 10 the va
rictr Of detail which may ornpment tho
surface OF n frock. Many 1. frock Il
nlmost chomlselilsc IN i's simplicity o.
line. Unusual interest is displayed N