The New York herald., 1922-02-19

This includes dress it emphasizes dress.
These women have drawn into this,
coming exhibition whatever potent fac
tors there are in the strong communal
life of New York such as the leading
dressmakers. the fabric designers, shoe
makers and all those who supply clothes
for girls. Such as these are to assist In
the uplift. Even dancers are to show
the young the proper way to dance.
This movement is to be nationwide.
Other cities are to be asked to take IT
up. Merchants shops, hairdressers.
jewelers. are to be invited to study the
problem of the reformation of youths
appearance and it's manners. The shop
windows Of Fifth avenue are to reflect
the movement. Youth Is to learn the
meaning of the phrase .'good taste" 1t
is interesting that the parents of young
men are eager to join.
The exhibition begins on March %.
10 be held continuously for a month.
And it is because, the names of these
women represent the most powerful ele-
ment in New York that one expects
results.
But that is not all. The pulpit is
asking the girls to give up jazz" DR..
Percy Stickney Grant of the Church OF
the Ascension startled the pleasure
seeking set with his fearless attack on
thxpresent dance as 1t relates to morals
and manners Of the young. He calls Il
"the gesture of the jungle" and quotes
voltaire in saying it makes you go on
all fours."
regulation Of all dance places, founded
on the terrifying fact that $4,000 girls
disappeared last year.
And the rector OF dignified and con-
servative Grace Church in New York
asked the Colonial Danes to ostracize
the young who were indecent in dress.
in dances, speech, IDEAL
Oh, yes. Youth is coming in for more
than happiness, which heretofore has
been its portion. Evidently the world
is arrayed against it as it is.
The Change I'm Clothes.
The young girl continues to lead the
way in fashions. Even if the dress
makers change the clothes to suit the
age of the woman the fundamental fea-
lures adopted by the young are retained.
They may be modified. Sometimes they
are not, unfortunately otherwise we
would not have the universally criticized
attitude toward age which older women
display in their clothes They are told
therefore they must dress young. They
take the fib seriously and act accord
ingly. They never look young again, as
nothing so accentuates age as the arti-
fetal effort to discount it.
The designers of the last dozen years
lave kept nothing but youth steadily be-
fore the eyes of the world, letting age
take care of itself. The young girl has
become something of fetish among
peoples. There is no apparent change
this season. France has again embarked
on a series of youthful fashions. Who
ever has trod the milestones into middle
age must shift for herself.
Curiously enough, and there is hope
in this, the designers have turned to the
more sophisticated fashions in the
worlds history to please the girls. They
have ceased to be simple. Just as chill
dren are now being dressed in a manner
that we thought was discarded forever.
SO young girls are reaching out toward
forbidden fruit.
From the cradle to the altar there is
more artifciality in young clothes than
people of good taste have permitted for
two generations Black taffeta or Bur-
gundy crepe de chine. or silver cloth and
black velvet was not tolerated for a child
eight years old until year ago. Now
ii is advanced quite casually and worn
without comment. There IS this to be
asserted. and It should be put in capital
letters, that decency in dress is now adj
vccated for the girl in the school room
as well as for the first years of society.
In truth, decency in dress is the effort
made by the majority OF designers, and
il this verdict of fashion is disregarded
b. the individual that is the fault of the
individual.
The new gowns for girls are almost
high in the neck. The skirts are longer
than they have been for several years.
Sleeves are put into armholes. even when
they do not cover much of the arm
Transparent blouses are not recom-
.mended. Crepe de chine is preferred to
georgette crepe. Although the girdle
even the most conservative parents, the
skirts are wide or full over the hips /:
when they are transparent for the eve-
ming they are substantially lined.
Summing it UP, the verdict of inde-
cency in young girls clothes cannot be
put down to the efforts OF those who
create and prepare the fashions. III
must be charged elsewhere.
Neither are the designers at all eager
for the young to to wear black. That
is a fashion begun by the girls them
selves, aided and permitted by their
mothers. The dressmakers fashion frocks
in high colors which they offer them.
and they accentuate them. They take
such commonplace fabrics as blue serge,
the kind that has fine cord in it, to
make a suit for the spring; they stitch
It with red silk thread. they add red
collar and cuffs to the short jacket and
place beneath it slim blouse of red