, 1922-12-17

NJ VI the most pronounced
~ features of the newest coats
Is the bloused back. This
Goes not mean. Of course, that We are
to be inflicted with the clumsy. bulky,
graeeless things which a blouse
back can be when 1t IL not correctly
designed. The makers have clever
~ gwen us, in these new models, not
only svelte lines but the utmost chic.
They have done all sorts of Interest,"
ing things TO the underarm seam.
and have even conceived an entirely
new method Of setting in the sleeves.
50 that all superhuous material is
taken care OF.
fniess you arc actually suffering
frRm embonpoint. you eau safely at
tefnpt n OF the ultra smart bloused
back affairs and wear 1t in the
k1pwledge that you are Haunting
quite the latest thing. One reason
for its success is. perhaps. the mar
Vicious %softness of the seasons ma
terials. They are as supple as velvet
and as luxurious as fur. And one
may drape or coax them into the
most charming lines without the
least detriment TO their lustrous sur
face. The time was when in order
to get warmth one must have a
weight. so great as to be cumber-
some. But in the new order OF the
fabrics they may be as light as a bit
of thistledown. yet warm enough for
the most "blizzardy" day.
There is no lessen!ng Of the favor
In which bolivia is held. 1t is az
popular today as 1t was when IT made
its debut several years ago.. silk
bolivia is used for some of the hand
somest models, and 1t is one OF the
few materials which are as lovely in
black as in colors. So often, you
know. black. particularly in wool
materials. takes On a grayish look
which is anything but attractive.
Both In maryella, that distinctive IA
yorite of fashion, and in silk bolivia
black is being seen a great deal. It
appears to form the q~ueenliest of
backgrounds for the ravishing fur
collars of squirrel which are SO
smart. either in the allurinE blue
gray Siberian or the very new Vi
atki.
Some OF the collars are so i'm
mense that one wonders whether the
wrap is Of cloth with a fur collar or
OF fur with a bit Of cloth attached.
Shawl collars are the vogue and
many Of them reach the waistline,
making a lovely setting for the fair
face of the wearer when they are
turned back; as they are more often
than not Added 10 this are fro
quently cuffs which may, II thew like
reach the elbow, m as If this wers
not enough there are panels edged
deep with fur and sometimes even
entire fur panels. The e-yer-present
squirrel, mole, seal. beaver and any
amount OF carasul are the usual
peits employed in this mode.
II is. as you see, more suited tn ths
short than the l~ong-haired furs Ru,
when collars alone are seen. or col
VI COl-
lars and round cuffs. there is m nh
Of l~ong-haired peltry. Fox.
especially platinum fox. is high I'm "a.
o It. too. combines wonderfuuv
with black or with the new IA
waiian and ensign blues. Wolf. which
once was looked upon with disfavor
is now a petted member of society 7
saw a beautiful model the other dav
Of corona in that inviting shade
known as kit-fox gray. And If Was
eolisrea to the waist and below with
the silkiest of natural gray wolf
When 1 spoke of the lovely sheen
n softness Of this fur. the furrier
called my attention to an equally
lustrous pelt OF black wolf. And