Evening journal., 1922-03-15

that have been conceded have been
granted reluctantly and women who have
deciding voice in the making, as we'll
as the wearing of fashions, contend that
the purposes of all factions are solved
in the shorter underskirt and longer pam
els which are salient features OF the hem
line.
As the season advances, the thinner ma
terials, like crepes, ohintzes voiles, etc,
assume a more conspicuous place in the
display Of new styles, and they are de-
veloped in many charming ways. The
sash replaces the belt on several fetching
models, and makes an effective substitute
where the material is softly gathered and
the sash finished in graceful manner. A
novelty shade utilized for daytime is
dried apricot, which is particularly effec-
tive in cotton voile OF good quality. Made
into an afternoon frock, this shade
achieves further distinction by having the
sash-girdle lined with old blue Georgette.
The skirt and kimono sleeves are trimmed
with rows Of hemstitching done in self
color, while the oval neck is finished with
three rows Of simple embroidery executed
in apricot and blue silk While the oval
neckline is much in evidence, it cannot
be regarded as the leading outline, for
here where one finds agreeable variety
! There is hardly any detail OF trock
which assumes as much Importance ~
the matter Of becomingness TO the indi-
vdual wearer as the neck. Collars are
very little in evidence, but there are sew
eral ways OF manipulating the neckline &c
combine it with the vestee Another com
bination that has good points, especially
for youthful effect is the shallow bateat
line in back, and a deep round neck II
front.
A chintz print in bricll-red with trim
ming of dark-green taffeta ribbon, tea
tures a pretty neck-line The back !!
oval while the front is deeply cut on
and bound with the ribbon. There Is ;
very narrow vestee OF self-materia
trimmed with groups OF tiny buttons
, while the sash combined in its colol
scheme of hrick-rcd. dark-green and two
shades OF blue, which arc the shades fea
tured in the pattern OF the material. Ih
I uiNuNt j. 50 lNllk lldA IL lNaNAiNo NttN ~
, OF the hem of the skirt, producing tn
uneven edge which every other frocl
seems 20 boast
This is undeniahly a season Of color
in fabrics as we'll as in trimmings. Tn
. influences most potent in their relation q
I modern fashions arc the Chinese and Rus
y sian, both of which are resplendent witt
h color. Among the most daring, yet wear
able OF the chemise frocks, are those dc
veloped in bright-red chintz sprinllle'
with large dots Of white. black blue, etc
The trimming about the neck and sleeve
usually corresponds with the dots O
whatever figures constitute the patter
of the material. Most of these design
arc of the slip-over variety and have
casing adjusted underneath the dress be
low the waist-line with elastic inserted {
regulate the fulncss Several of IN
Shemise frocks designed for devclopmer
in flannel, jersey, serge, etc, are accom-
panied by capes, which can be worn ser
arately. Frequently when the cape form
a part Of the dress, II takes the place c
sleeves starting at the sidc-back, and
the front turning under the arm towar
the back again, to complete the sleeN
effect.
The lnit-silks do not seem to show ar