The New York herald., 1922-06-04

wash blouses. This condition gently in
| dicates that the one-piece frock has
rivals. Old and familiar rivals, these,
beloved by the generation just preced-
ing this.
None of these new colorful jackets
extends below the hips. The smart ones
end at the point of the hips. There
may be pockets, as on Lanvin's snort
| jacket of polished and patterned crepe,
or just plain hips. In all of these there
| is plenty of shoulder room. They mar
row as they descend. Those of suede
are usually worn with cloth skirts ;
sometimes they have fur collars Those
of cloth are brightly embroidered with
silk or metal in Russian or Persian pat
terms. With a plain skirt jacket VIII
often have an intricate network OF
soutaching i'm braid of a color that
harmonizes with the hat.
1t is not considered beneath the dig
nifty of such gay and expensive jacket
to consort with a white lingerie blouse
When this is done the collar of the
blouse is pulled into view over the collar
of the jacket. The edict for severe
neclkline has gone the way of other
fashions. We shall see it again, but
it will sleep for awhile. That is good.
The fashion was never gracious, never
kind to femininity.
Advent of the Suede Hat.
1t was Caroline Reboux of Paris who
thought of the suede hat to go with
the jacket of the same fabric. Possibly
we shall see a few hundred Americans
wearing such hats in bright colors when
they return from Europe. They are ad
mirably matched to the Jacket. provid-
ing they are not opposing in color, but
women also wear them with a plain
tailored suit, which has returned to
fashion, but with difference. 1t Is
more formal in its accessories than the
loose sort suits of last summer. 1t takes
on the airs and mannerisms of a cere.
monial costume.
The kid hat as RebouX fashions 1t
has a draped crown. Others have
softly modelled high crown with a short
brim that slightly rolls in front. Az
unimportant band and bow accompany
it. This is the summer substitute foc
our felt hat of the winter. 1t is hot
and moisture producing for our Ameri-
can summers, but that disadvantage
may not put it out of the running.
Smart as the suede hat is, it does not
defect attention from the quantities of
straw hats that dot the landscape.
These are as often beige as red. as
often green as black. Color, vivid and
compelling, does not alarm or repel this
season Unfortunately it Is worn by
the wrong woman as frequently as by
the right one.
The verdict of Paris for the reversal
of black hats was rendered at the races,
where fashions are launched. If any
color was missed in the straw 1t was
added in the ribbon. The rainbow bands
that the fiappers have worn here for
several months are not neglected in
Paris. Ribbon in any shade is used Tor
large wired designs at the side of the
crown. This fashion is followed here.
Cloche hats of straw have brown bands
of satin ribbon that end in immense
rolls, angles and squares at the side.
Much of the straw is open in its mesh,
cool contrast to the suede. When tur
bans are substituted for brimmed hats
the front is usually in the Russian
manner, pointed. the fabric closely
drawn. Smart women are not refusing
these turbans because they have been
worn before.
Here and there is a tendency toward