davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
BY Universal Service.
BERLIN, Sept. IL


~ INCE the advent Of warm
weather there has been
~ sharp rise in the prices Of
field glasses and a corresponding
decrease in the demand for bath
ing suits in Riga, capital Of Lat
via, one of the new states born
out Of the agony of the world war.
incidentally prices of rooms with
windows facing the beach are TAX
ing on "first.night" figures. This
relation between field glasses,
bathing suits and beach windows
is very simple-just human ma
ture, that's all.
In the good old days, as some
still call them, when Riga and
Latvia were still a part Of Russia
proper, II was the proper thing on
the beach at Riga, as in many
places today in Sweden, to go in
bathing in the altogether"
The Riga beach was just a bit Of
the original Eden. That the Ewes
might not tempt the Adams with
any apples the beach.Eden was
divided. The men bathed at one
place ana the women some little
distance off. but not wholly out Of
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
NEW GLOVES SHOW HIGHLY-TRIMMED STYLES
i'm TWO-TONE EFFECTS

4 LTHOUGH 1t is suggested
"A that the long suede glove will
"A come into its own in Paris
and supersede the long favored
black. at present everything seems
to be pointing to gauntlets. judg-
ing by the representative selec-
tions shown by a number of French
firms. This condition is probably
due to the fact that the gauntlet
is finding favor worn with the very
short sleeved and sleeveless dress
in Paris as well as with the tail.
ored frock or suit.
The highly trimmed styles in the
more delicate skins, are of course,
featured for the former use men,
toned. There seems to be some.
what a tendency away from the
embroidered model. although
number of these are still shown.
Two.toned effects are very much in
evidence, with this attained by the
use of two different shades of
skins, one over the other with cut
out designs on the top layer, or by
interlacing strips, or applique de-
signs. The cameo trim is new and
is shown by more than one shop.
Smaller Cuff In Evidence.
The smaller cuff is much used.
One model uses a cuff that is lit
tie more than a banding but that
extends beyond the glove proper
on one side into a point. This
cuff is trimmed with contrasting
stripes and border edge. In an.
other case a small flare cuff has
narrow light stripes and a light
border all around 1t. Very heavy
embroidery, which somewhat
matches the trim Of the gauntlet,
is a popular feature, and is shown
in a glove with a turnback cuff,
which has a pointed trim In
black and white. The two.toned
embroidery repeats the points on
the back of the glove.
"Torquay" has cuff that comes
to a point in the center, getting
narrower on each side toward the
fastening. This cuff is trimmed
with an allover eyelet design in
varying sizes, which is effective.
Another pointed style. the Buck.
ingham," has a number of eyslets,
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
IRELAND NOW BUYING
MUCH FROM GERMANY

shipping lines connecting Ireland
and Germany. One Is the Inter
national Steamship Company of
Dublin, which is backed entirely
by Irish capital and works in con.
junction with the German ship
ping company Stella of Hamburg.
while the other, viz. the Head
Lines, Ltd, is part of a combine
owned by British capital. These
lines connect Hamburg with Dub
lin, Cork and Belfast. and there Is
a prospect that there will be also
one passenger steamer per week
on this route.
There is a certain difficulty
arising In connection with the re.
turn cargo OF the ships. for the de.
preciated German currency makes
1t rather difficult for German i'm.
porters to buy in Ireland. Never.
theless. there is quite a consider.
able amount of material regularly
shipped from Ireland to Germany
It consists Of wool, salted herrings,
skins, hides and linen, and there
is a possibility in the near future
of the export OF Irish flax to Ger.
many.
I'VE import from Germany con.
siderable quantities of textile goods
and machinery Of every descrip.
ton. A number of small industries
are now springing up in Ireland
and they mostly prefer German
machinery. The shipments of ma
chinery sold to IRISH interests com
prise Hanging machines. all ma.
chimes necessary In the printing
trade. machines for turning out
cement blocks, ETC."
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

her tortoise shell comb set with
emeralds: even the outline Of a
rabbits Scot showed in one
group.
THE small hat Of black velvet
has taken fc st hold he With
apparent intention Of ruling the
millinery season.
small shape OF intriguing
character was fashioned with
the brim in soft. loose waves.
like four or five inch plaits.
"'e side the brim was a huge
bow of velvet. setting out
audaciously from the hat.
other small velvet shape
ran to a rim pointed at either
side, n-A made Of orange colored
satin. exactly like pair Of
horns.
A hat Of different sort dared a
band winding tightly about the
forehead and upper portion Of
the ears. of silver tissue.
y Sloping toward the sides. the
band in some degree suggested the
head dress of the Russian maid.
II was filled in across the top with
a growth of black glycerated
oatrich. rising coarse and heavy.
like prairie grass, and about five
inches high.
COLLARS are spreading UP
q. and down and round. I've no
doubt each new one I see is in
search of the fourth dimension.
Surely they have become Il nomad
tribe, searching and moving and
never at rest.
One has rolled itself up and tied
the ends like a knapsack ere taking
its. place on wraps Of duvclyn or
fur.
Another has cut itself into the
fashion of stiff. white linen oak
leaves for the neck Of a black
velvet bodice, which it half covers
with depth.
A THIRD, of bright taffeta.
has plated itself and so ar.
ranged frill upon frill as to put TO
shame the ruffs Mr.. Raleigh and
his contemporaries adored. This
collar repeats itself in cuffs to the
elbow. The sides are caught with
a little flower of contrasting shade.
Finally there is the flaring triple
collar of white linen which tor.
lures the neck to its own salts.
faction and appears again about
the wrists with three tiers ,bulging
backward.
pLEATING on skirts. as ruffles
used for trimming, as insert.
ed panels, but IL used for entire
frocks or merely as a part, pleat-
ing is the thing.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
Beach Sights at Riga
Call For Binoculars

sight. With the coming Of inde-
pendence for Latvia there were
more or less reforms. Among
these was a regulation that bath.
ing suits had to be worn, how.
ever abbreviated.
This summer age-worn custom
tired Of the reforms on the beach
in the summertime. Drying bath
ing suits or carrying them home
wet is a lot of bother any how.
The Riga police have now issued
an order permitting bathing a Ia
Adam and a Ia Eve, as In the
Czarist days, with but one proviso.
Adam bathes from s to 10 In the
morning and Eve from 10 to IL.
While the men are battling with
the pillows unencumbered by any
textiles the more curious Of the
Ewes may be seen behind cur.
tanned windows facing the beach
with field glasses. Promptly At
10 the men take the seats In the
boxes" to natures show.
That's why the prices Of field
glasses have gone up and good
binoculars with high magnifying
power are In great demand.
Such are the tales that travellers
from Riga bring TO Berlin.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

owe their power of deception to
the fact that they are made of
long. soft panels, and reveal thnir
true identity when the wearer is
still. but become floating sleeves
when she moves.
The shop windows reflect in the
daytime and the mirrors of the
roof at night. the interesting and
varied silhouettes Of the wrap
world.
FOR daytime, the line is much
the same, either the popular
Russian one with its bands of fur
about the hips, or the slim and
graceful models, depending on
variety Of material and trimming
to give the stamp of individuality.
The smartest of the wraps are
known by their sleeves. Some
of the sleeves begin at the low
waist line and then taper to meet
the voluminous fur cuffs, mas
querading as muffs, at the wrist.
The fur is caracul, or the long
haired furs. "a lynx, fox and wolf.
And the best behaved Of collars,
also fashioned from fur, fasten up
about the neck in a snug and
graceful manner.
But after the lights are lighted
few wraps are well behaved. They
become delightfully."- frivolous, fash
ioning themselves Of taffeta, lace,
chiffon and the most exquisite Of
brocades and velvets. Clusters OF
ribbon and fabric roses, bands Of
ostrich feathers, pleated rutfles
and laces join in the most ingcn-
ious manner to form collars on
the wraps.
And the silhouettes are delight
fully varied, when fur bands, eesp
ruffle or lace-trimmed points and
feathers are employed to make
the wraps end in the most unex-
pected fashion.
The Russian touch creeps in 70
influence the evening wraps.
They are truly Russian in line, in
the use of magnificent and almost
barbaric colors. and typically Rus
sian. the Russia of the Roman
offs, in the lavish use of furs.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
LONDON, Sept. 16.


|" HE latest war to threaten
the British Isles is that be-
- tween the housewife and the
allied forces Of the grocer and the
butcher.
Everywhere In England the ten.
dency has been during the last few
months to cut the wages. but the
cut in price Of the necessaries OF
life has not been commensurate
with the drop in the salary
packets.
Hubby struck when they at.
tackled his wages, and lost. Wifey
now strikes when the grocer
charges the extra cents on the
flour and sugar and the butcher
for his increased rates on the
Viands. and again hubby loses; he
has got te go without.
Many commodities are dearer
considerably than they were in the
spring. In all. the cost Of living
has gone up ten points.
rhe best lamb cost 80 cents o
pound, while a pound Of the best
English beef now costs so cents.
Butter reaches the highest mark
it has made since September. 1921,
and so cents the pound Is the low.
est at which II can be had.
Bread and fruit are higher and
the latter rarer than usual. Ban.
snas are 4 cents apiece. tomatoes
are 25 cents a pound. eggs 36 cents
@ dozen. milk - cents q quart.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
Price War is Started
BY English Women

!. apples 20 cents a pound, while the
baker charges 20 cents for a
quartern loaf
All being a 10 per cent increase,
and yet, ironically enough. the
wages have all been cut and the
reason given is a drop in the cost
of living.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

But where the skirt should be
there are instead the flowing, room.
ish trousers Of feminine Turkey.
Not knickers. but boomers. crowd
ing yards and yards of fabric
round the hips and bagging over
ankles till one must look and then
glance again to be quite sure.
Boots of gray suede. with black
patent leather cuffs twinkle below
blooming extremities. The bifur.
cation, I Judge. began about knee
high. Still there was so much full
ness I couldn't be sure.
With it was worn a small. close.
fitting hat Of navy duvetyn, like
the suit. A quill of gray fur rose
stiffly in front.
The whole was completed by a
walking stick Of gray and Jade
stripes.
THE two most completely de-
lirious evening gowns I have
seen in a long and somewhat in.
tensive career of seeing were part
of an exotic exhibit of new things.
The pair were startling for their
Spartan simplicity of line. which
ran to a tight sleeveless and throat.
less bodice with pointed waistline,
and full skirt wired to a very
bouffant exaggeration at the sides.
One gown was fashioned of
crinkled silver tissue and was with.
out a relieving touch of trimming
Of any sort save as shoulder
straps of rhinestones set up con.
trast.
Spanish lace, dyed nasturtium
color. was thrown round the shoul.
ders like a bit of shawl. to stream
casually downward.
The other gown was black file
taffeta of unusual weight The
bodice was scattered unevenly
with tiny discs of metal cloth. red
and gold, as IL confetti. hurled care.
lessly, had held to the fabric.
The skirt bore evidence that
embroidering may require not
only the fingers Of the artist. but
the mind Of the mechanical en-.
gineer as well. Unobtrusively
woi ked scrolls wound round the
folds, occasio nally giving way to
enthusia~~' in small silk rose
buds set on the silk, and dabs Of
cream Chantilly.
Directly in front, and once
again on either side the back.
was embroidered in colors the
top Of Madame's dressing table.
Her hand mirror with gold
andle and bit of cehophane
instead of glass was upon It;
her powder.puff and rouge pot;
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

Universal Service Staff Correspondents.
BERLIN, Sept. 16.
~" HE Free State of ireland
means to pursue its own
- trade policy, and to be
guided solely by the principle of
assuring to Emerald Isle the best
possible economic possibilities.
One Of the projected measures Of
the near future is the abolition in
Ireland of the British key in
dustries act which protects Brit
ish industry from dumping of i'm.
ported German goods" Charles
Bewley, Irish trade commissioner
to Germany, told me in an inter-
view.
There is no reason" he dc,
Clared, why Ireland should not be
entitled to suspend, in her
territory, laws which concern Brit
ish industry, so much the more as
the industries protected by these
'anti-dumping' laws do not exist
in Ireland. The recent British law
charging an import duty of 33l5
per cent upon German.made fabric
gloves is there tC protect the inter-
ests Of the fabric.glove industry
Of Leicester and other British
cities. But as we Irish have no
such industry Of Importance We
must be entitled to profit from the
legitimate competition of British
and German industries.
The commercial relations be.
tween the Irish Free State ana
Germany are developing in great
strides. There are now two direct
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

The silhouette OF this year Is a
pleasing one. This is due to the
fabrics, styles and an unusual COM
bination OF both.
Shaded candles Of the tea hour In
any fashionable hotel cast interest
ing shadows on the walls of the
lounge and tea room.
They are graceful shadows. cast
by the ankle-length draped frocks.
made of soft. clinging materials.
This slender outline is topped by
q large hat, and ends in high heel.
cd buckled slippers.
Posed with one slender hand
where a hip should be. the flapper
OF today is lovely picture, and
no one mourns that the short
skirts of yesterday have gone
where go the SHOWS Of yesteryear.
The evening silhouette ia best
seen when one goes to the Cen.
tury Roof" in New York. And
those that are fortunate enough
to live at that style center. copy
the form Of the silhouettee there
portrayed.
Everyone goes to see 'Chauve
Souris' and then goes again, un.
wearied by the eccentric Russian
vaudeville. One is sure to en-.
counter notable characters there
from about town, artists from
Bohemia, and smart women from
the world of fashion," Not only
Is "Chauve.Souris" on the lips of
everyone. but the smart fashions
there silhouetted against the
amusing wall paintings have been
inspired. and in turn inspire.
through the closer contact politi.
cally and socially with Russia.
Here again the silhouette is a
slender one. Unusual sleeves, gor-
geous embroideries, half lost in the
shadow picture, enormous ear.
rings, strings Of beads that hang
below the knees. and novel head.
dress add interest and variety to
the shadow.
SLEEVES or no sleeves, Is the
question Of the moment. While
the warm days linger the sleeve.
I less frock appears frequently on
the street. worn. curiously enough,
with gauntlet gloves. The gloves
are Of a decorative nature.
Paris. taking the place Of Sister
Anne on the watch.tower, advises
the popularity Of the long sleeve,
and from her exalted position pre-.
diets that before another month
has passed. nothing but long
sleeves will be seen.
Latitude in sleeves Is very great.
Two Of the most interesting types
sre the sleeves that turn out to b.
a cape at the shoulder and then fall
in graceful folds over the back: and
the sleeves that fit the arms so
! tightly that one marvels at the
complicated process necessarily re-
quired during the putting on and
taking off periods.
In addition are the models that,
while in themselves sleeveless, ap-
pear differently. The sleeves Of
this DR.. Jekyll and Mr.. Hyde role
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
%

A white dot border on a stiff cuff.
with a center design also in white
dots, is quite effective on a black
glove. The embroidery carries out
the dotted effect. Diamond cut
outs border the cuff sof ano;ner
model, which is in white with the
cuff black over white.
JUST as every fastidious officer
selects and plans his gloves
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

Black remains o favorite
and is proven by a graceful
frock of canton crepe. In
serts of filet lace and q
white ribbon sash, add to the
distinctiveness Of the model.
Courtesy Rizik Brothers.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
DreSSuakerS of
England Condemn
No Corset Stvle
IONDON Sent 4

LONDON. Sept. l6.
/. FNGLISH dressmakers are
in revolt against the laxity
In the way in which women
wear-or do not wear corsets.
The almost tropical weather
in England has caused many
women to discard as much
clothing as possible. including
their corsets. and take to the
elastic belt.
Their dressmakers have
roundly condemned their con.
sequent uncontrolled and over.
developed figures.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
LINES AND COLORS.
REVEAL, FINE HAND
OF OLD ROMANOFFS
Unusual Combination of Styles and Fabrics OF
Current Season Permit Delightful Sighou-
etteS-LOng Sleeves to Hold Full Sway Ere
Another Month Passes, Prediction.
BY VIRGINIA KINDoN.

NTYLE outlne-the silhouette Of fashions vital
part of woman s life from the time that she
~ her first paper dolls down through the intermediate
stages of dressing her dolls and deciding just what style
the most becoming down to the day when her most i'm
portans study begins and she stands before the mirror and
decides her individual characteristics.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
SEEN i'm NEW WRAP MODES FOR AUTUMN
WHAT STING HAS LENGTH IF TREATED tt

Either extremely severe, or
sxquisitely elaborate, are the
dictates for the fashionable
coat world. This lovely,
black Marvella coat, trimmed
with wolf, and lined with.
the daintiest of grey canton
crepe, answers the require
ments for the dress part Of
the dictates.
Courtesy The Harris Shop.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
Two Tones Of Skins Used.

but the upper half is finished with
a pointed icicle design.
Two Tones Of Skins Used.
The use of two tones of skins
is also noticeable in achieving the
highly trimmed effect. One glove
has pointed strips of irregular
length, dark on light. used on the
straight gauntlet skirt, while an
other, which has a stiff pointed
cuff, features an interlacing white
thong around the cuff as the trim.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
By wIN1FRED VAN DUzER.

- New York, Sept. 16
wv HEN Madame longer stand the sight of the
W. furs which wrap the shopping district here she
may wander into a certain avenue shop and enjoy
inspection of autumn offering the Suit Saracen surely
designed speed the fashion this city of
mean voltage.
One but surmse what shall be the effect upon
American life when this garment makes for Out Where the
West begins!
"Saracen is reasonably conventional of jacket, which
blouses the extremely wide hpbet according to the
seasons demand Sleeves restrained and cuffs like
the standing collar, of gray squirrel.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
THE SUIT ,SARACEN
DESIGNED TO SPEED
UP FALL FASHIONS

Winifred VAN Duzer Says the New Mode Is
Reasonably Conventional of Jacket, which
Blouses Over the Extremely Wide Hip Belt,
But Where the Skirt Should BE There Are
Instead the Flowing, RoOnish Trousers of
Feminine Turkey.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17
BY KARL ii. Won WIEGAND.

Universal Service Staff Correspondent
BERLIN, Sept. 16.
The Washington times., 1922-09-17

pLEATING on skirts. as ruffles
used for trimming, as insert.
ed panels. but IL used for entire
frocks or merely as a part, pleat-
ing is the thing.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1922-11-23
N illing-in- Transit r Privilege
In Grand Forks Is Granted By
The Great Northern Railroad

or a total OF 1872 cents, whr, Is
the rate that has existed on a ship
mHrt a. above referred to. Under
tnr new provision the freight rate On
the same shipment would be tho
through rate for the 227 miles from
Hannah to Casselton, which is 20 1-2
cents, plus the one and ,one-ha1f cents
milling-in-transit charge, making a
total Of rs CENTS. The saving there
fore, will be the difference between
25 and 80 1-2 cents, or 8 ~ cents per
hundred pounds. @
Seek Other Benefits.
The new state mill in Grand Forks,
because of the magnitude its business
is expected to reach presumably will
derive the greatest benefit from the
new privilege. but MI. Goodman's sue:
cessful efforts will BIO enjoyed by all
mills in North Dakota similarity stu
ated OF the Great Northern railroad.
Aside from the milling-in-transit
matter, the local traffic department
some time ago took up the question Of
having the Grand Forks storage-in-
transit rate of two and one-half cents
per hundred pounds reduced. This
matter. Mr.. Goodman said. is still
pending.
: Several other phases Of the milling
%in-transit question are now being dealt
with and are expected to be reported
on soon.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1922-11-23
TAU OMEGA
INSTALLATION TO 3
... TAKE PLACE D

Twenty-six alumni Of Alpha Kappa
Zeta fraternity of the University of
North Dakota will be made Alpha
Tau Omega members at the installa-
ton ceremonies which begin here Fri
day morning at 8 o'clock and con-
tinue through the day and evening.
The local Greek letter organization
was recently granted a charter by
Alpha Tau Omega, national academic
fraternity. :,
( A formal banquet followed by d
public reception in the university
arnlory are on the program for Satur-
day evening. A list of the alumni who
will participate follows:
William T.. Bulge, Henry A. Doak,
DR.. Chas. E. Hunt, Jos. A. Ingram.
Ray A. Jacobson,>C C. d. Locklin, Jr.;
Joseph Bridston, H. l.. Edwards, DR..
Anon p. Flaaten, Leslie G.. Trotter,
George Sagen and Charles A. King,
all Of Grand Forks; William Boyce,
Fargo; James Sinclair. tKenmare, N,
D.; Henry Paulson, Kenmare: Francis
Webb, st. Thomas; Edward Ketter,
East Grand Forks, MINI; Oliver Eiel-
son, Hamilton, N. d.: Leo Dominick,
st. Thomas; DR.. Roy Swanson, Alexan-
dria, Mimi: Floyd Luros, Crary, N,
d.; Hollis Page, Hamilton, N. D.;
Lawrence Nicholson, Doyon, N. D.;
r. M Mares, Wheatland, N. D., and
j. Raymond Murphy, Bismarck, N. D
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1922-11-23
GERMANY LEADS
IN EDUCATION
Legion Appalled, at Dis:
covery of Americas Low
Standing.
(By The Associated Press

w (By The Associated Press.)
Indianapolis. Ind.-Germany leads
the, world in literacy, according to a
statement by Garland w. Powell, ma
tiona1 director of the Americanism
commission of the American Legion,
based upon estimates of the\192O CEN
sus. The United States is eleventh on
the literacy list of leading nations,
Mr.. Powell said.
Countries which have fewer litter
ates than America, according to Mr.
Powell. are Germany, Denmark, Swift
zerland, Holland, Finland, Norway,
Sweden, Scotland, England, Wales and
France. THE 1920 census showing
that more than five million persons,
or six per cent, of the American pop
ulation, are illiterate, is too low, be-
cause a confession of il%iterac:y to a
census taker was necessary to enroll
the person among those swho can
neither read nor WRITE" Mr.. Powell
declared. This made it easy for the
illiterate to conceal his ignorance.
since there was no test of literarcy.''
A gain in illiteracy of 1884 in
twelve states during the period 1910
1920, was, for the most part, due to
those states having received the great
est influx Of immigrants during the
last decade, according to the state
|ment. ~
1.-The American Legion is appalled, at
the discovery of Americas low stand
ing" he said. 1.-The correction of this
deplorable state of affairs will be one
of the foremost activities of the Amer
,icanism commission" N