The New York herald., 1922-01-29
Low Placed Girdle May BE
Suppressed and Supplanted
by Drapery.

TIME rumors that are flying about
regarding the forecast Of spring
fashions are interesting and prom
ise much novelty. Rumor is, for exam
pie, flirting with the idea of stiff godets
such as used to be called organ pieats in
the nineties, and which are scheduled to
appear in the new type Of short Jackets.
These box coats are circular, short and
full. but probably will not be so much
worn as the less youthful more becom-
ing jacket. which is hip length, belted,
long waisted and loosely bioused.
Kasha, broadcloth and serge, as well as
crepe de chine, which has by no means
exhausted its popularity, will all be i'm
portant spring fabrics for daytime wear.
There Is some feeling for the suppress
sion of the low placed girdle, which Is so
strong a feature of the moment, and for
substituting instead drapery that accen-
tuates the suppleness of the slender fig
ure. and which when handled by a mas
ter may even disguise the faults of a
poor figure. Certainly, at the beginning
Of the season, one piece frocks. coat
dresses and afternoon and evening
gowns are sure to accent the draped line.
The straight silhouette has triumphed
definitely over the bouffant for evening.
Nevertheless. the latter has too much
picturesqueness and grace to be left out
of the mode entirely. especially as 1t Is
n style particularly adapted to thin
materials. Indeed, Lanvin, Doucet and
Beer show many wide.. almost crinolined
dancing frocks in their new collections.
and, Of course, Poiret, with his lair for
period costumes, barely neglects them.
There Is in all models tendency to
give fullness without accentuating It, for
the tubeIike effect is quite finished. In
evening dresses metal and coiored silk
laces promise very well, and are ma
terials which also lend themselves adj
mirably TO drapery.
Black for evening wear is discarded,
but 1t continues to be seen a little in
the daytime, though brown more than
challenges its popularity. Beige tones
supersede gray. which was so popular
last spring. Navy blue is too useful to
be neglected. In summing up the color
situation. one may say that neutral
shades predominatc for the daytime,
while In the evening color Is rampant
Rose tones and tangerine that is half
orange and half rose are most en-
phasized.
Embroidery is not superseded. but it
fs no longer a dominant feature, being
used this season. in many cases, to
decorate only the girdle, and often Is
worked in scarcely perceptible allover
pattern In silk or In crystal beads.
Renee uses this type of embroidery on
number Of her midseason models.
Lanvin shows an important and new
note I'm the little shoulder capes which
she adds to her coats and skirts. For
instance. one OF tho smartest models
IL a dark green plaid suit with which
is worn n double shoulder cape Of green
broadcloth lined with the plaid and
finished at the neck with a tiny turn
over green collar.
Girdles are less important. but fancy
belts will probably not be given up at
once. though they have been used so
extensively thai the natural reaction Is
to ee. away from them. The bateau
neckline Is still seen, but q new, deep,
oval effect Is much talked of for spring.
For daytime wear sleeves are long. re-
tanning their present variety, but those
that are long and tight Mt the wrist,
coming Well down over the hand, are
leading the season.
Two of the smartest and most distinc-
tive OF the new fabrics--namely, Paisley
end kasha cloth--meet with unusual
harmony In the scmi-formal version Of
the three piece cost'r7e shown. Worn
without Its interesting coat. the frock
v1ich follows the accepted. softly
draped princesse lines, becomes a
charming and gracious costume for tho
Tea hour. The points of the bodice,
which complement the surplice closing.
make the bright contrast of the Paisley
colors all the more effective. The coat.
which possesses the chic flare below
the low waistlne so notable in the
French collections has the further dis
tinction of bishop sleeves and a new
collar.
Tho kasha cloth tailored suit for
spring. illustrated, has suggestion Of