The New York herald., 1922-06-11
Green and White Checked |
Gingham Popular for
n Street Wear.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.


w THITE organdie trimmed with
w entre-deux and gay rose en-
broidery joined makes this
delightful afternoon frock, cut in one
piece (6623). The kimono cut sleeves
are trimmed with two narrow butter
color lace frills, and a sash of white
organdie ties in large soft bow at
the side. Green and white checked
gingham makes smart sleeveless
frock for street wear (s624. With it
is worn a cream voile blouse. which
may, have short or full bishop sleeves,
banded with bias strips of gingham.
1t will be noted that the broad girdle
is also cut on the bias.
Corset Returns to the Mode.
Since the corset has returned to favor,
one naturally asks in what guise. 1t
was never so entirely discarded by the
American woman as il was said to have
been by her French sister. But its re-
vival by both and what effect it's re-
moval had, and its revival will have,
upon the female figure, are questions
of interest to all those who care to see
the Glass of Fashion again rejecting
the Mould of Form.
Not that we are likely to return TO
cold steel and hot buckram any more
than to the thirteen-inch waist and iron
stays of Catharine de Medici's reign !;
but IL our figures, particularly rs we
pass the slim years of indiscretion. are
to keep that nyn1phlike effect demand
ed by the long straight lines of the
Greek dress or the clinging folds of
staf"esque drapery. we must keep them
shapely as well as supple.
The present day silhouette is greatly
dependent upon the under outline for
its grace. and the under outline unless
of youth and unusual slenderness, Is
ders rdent upon some sort of corset.
This seems now to be generally ac-
knowicdged
The modern corset helps the figure
to simulate a perfect ideal without
painful construction. 1t ranges from
the very long drawn-down corset the
top of which comes sometimes just to
the waistline and sometimes Il little
abo' e, TO the very narrowest of low
placed girdles. 1t is lightly boned,
firmly made garment, not intended to
contract the natural lines of the body.
bur to hold them consistently in the
way they should 60 There has long
been a particularly plant sort OF cor
set designed for sport. but now all cor
sets are plant. Very few bones" is the
order that has gone forth, but the ar
rangement and quality OF them do more
for the figure than any steel cased
corselet OF old days
For young girls. and no matter how
reedlike are the majority. there are
special designs. Sometimes these ap-
pear In fine elastic girdles which clasp
in front and have no lacings; sometimes
In those without openings of any kind
and into which one has to STEP Either
is fTw enough to support youthful
waist and keep fiat youthful abdomen.
A sl'vht medium figure gains perhaps
more graceful silhouette with low cor
set, very little but very we'll boned A
womon of large figure does better with
what might be called tailored" corset
which does not go above the waist line,
but extends well down over the hips and
gives the fat back line necessary to the
successful wearing Of present day gar
ments.
The evening corset is most impor-
tant. II must not only give the long
fiat lines demanded by the draped gown
but support the waist in the back. while
admitting an extreme decoletage TO
those who favor this mode. Good taste
in color almost always suggests white
or the palest shades of pink. blue or
mauve for the evening. and indeed for
usual wear.
Fabrics I'm Great Variety.
Fabrics for the modern corset NAV
vary. but IL would be safe to saw that
the body OF it is usually OF brocade,
satin or tricot Elastic is very much
which give freedom wherever freedom is
necessary. For the whole corset. how
ever, elastic has been found to lack sta
oility. and some manufacturers have
used suede successfully. This Is a ma
terial which does not stretch unduly
Yet, elastic, introduced in the most sur
prising ways and the minutest auanti-
Ties, has effected results one would
hardly have believed possible. But. with
all their ability to present a woman S
figure as II should be, these complicated
sounding arrangements are most simple
in design and material, following that
high simplicity which is the basis OF ali
good dressing In the present day.
Brassieres have come into greater
prominence than ever by reason OF the
hat bodice indicated by fashion. There
must be no break in the line between
the top OF the corset and the top of The
bodice ; no ridge or ripple must mar
the smoothness. IL is the duty of the
brassiere to prevent this 'rhe scale
runs from the high cut. heavily woven
boned brassiere for the large woman 70
the smallest OF evening dress contri-
vances which tapers away TO mere
unobtrusive ribbon in the back
With such a wealth Of charming
choices IN both corsets and nrassie.,
A. say nothing Of their go-bst.gen.. :.