davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
For Afternoon Dresses

For afternoon dresses the sleeves
are of just as much Importance as
they are for any other sort of frock.
In fact they are more so, If the truth
were faced. Afternoon frocks must,
of necessity. be graceful and, just now,
without flowing sleeves there Is no
chance of achieving a graceful frock
without that side addition that makes
a sort of sleeve drapery.
There Is another frock. 1t Is conf
posed Of gray georgette, combined with
wide applications of silver lace. And
it is gown that Is notable SO far as
Its sleeves are concerned. The sleeves
and the upper section of the bodice
make pattern with the groups of
tucks that are so arranged that they
string along the sleeves and then
across the neck. Other than that there
are only layers of the silver lace which
stretch over the foundation Of the
same chiffon. But who can say that
the sleeves are not the interest of the
design Of the gown? The lace is the
trimming. Oh, yes, to be sure. But
the foundation frock is accentuated by
the rows of tucks that stretch across
the front and the back of the bodice
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

made Of the materials are very spar.
ingly used. Pin tucks In parallel rows
and placed In groups, or box tucks
are features of the decoration in the
tailored styles. French knots, inserted
cords and very narrow, sturdy edg-
ings play excellent parts in them also.
Chemise With step-in drawers, or with
knickers to match, answer the demand
for attractive and comfortable under
wear.
Cotton crepes and tailored styles
will interest those who are providing
outfits for young women and girls
school wear, for two good reasons.
Laundering must be considered and
silks require little special care In
washing ng-although it is very easy to
do them. The other reason is that it
Is better for the school girl to have
too little than too much of the lux
uries in her wardrobe and, to many
people, silk undergarments are still
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
NOT YET NATION OF RENTERS
Home Owning Is by No Means a Lost
Ambition Among People Of the
United States.

Is home owning a lost ambition?
Are we becoming nation of cliff
dwellers and renters? Not If we put
faith in the figures compiled by the
lately established bureau of housing
Of the Department of Commerce, OBJ
serves the Nations Business.
OF 6S cities of more than
100000 population but 20 show a
loss in percentage of homes owned be-
tween 1910 and 1920 (the figures are
from the census bureaW, and the
losses are more than offset by the
gains Of the other As. OF the 20
where losses were recorded four, De-
troit, Cleveland, st. Louis and Los
Angeles, are in the first ten cities In
point of population.
Although in New York more homes
are owned than in any other city, the
percentage Is the lowest, but 12.7, yet
even here the percentage has grown
from III in 1910 and 12.1 In 1900,
Manhattan presents the most striking
situation. With more than half mil
lion homes, less than 1900 were
owned, little more than 2 per cent.
If home owning be a form of civic
virtue, then Des Molnes may gather
her chaste skirts about her as painted
Manhattan passes, for the Iowa para
gon among cities shows percentage
of home ownership Of 51.2, growth
from 1876 per cent In 1910 and 3S.5
in 1900. In only one other community
of more than 100000 inhabitants are
half the homes owned and that is
Grand Rapids, Mich.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Old Houses Being Made Over.

An era of remaking old houses runs
across the entire country, according to
Northwest lumbermen.
Following the building shortage Of
late years has come an appreciation
that any house, old or new, has untold
possibilities of alteration. Architects
have been called upon to produce in
stances of before and after" of ram
shackle, barnlike structures made over
into charming homes. Old barns have
been rebuilt into studios, sheds and
warehouses into residences of taste
There IS an enormous demand on
the Northwest planning mills for mold
ings, trimmings, shingles, sidings, in
side finishings, lumber and fancy
grained fir, hemlock or cedar for cab
met work.
Lumbermen declare this demand has
come from the alteration wave over
the nation, repairing and adding built
In features.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Countless Ways Used by Women In
Arranging the Affair to Obtain
individuality.

There are countless ways of drap-
ing long wells. 1t never would be pos
sible to put ones personality as much
into the wearing of hat or dress
as into the wearing Of a veil-and
every woman has a deft little way Of
her own in its arrangement wherein
the greatest originality prevails.
In addition to wells of chiffon there
are those of chantilly lace or Of net
In a fancy mesh quite elaborately en-
troidered. Sometimes masque effect
is achieved in the latter by means of
an all-over embroidered design, leav-
ing the masque portion without the
embroidery.
Interesting meshes of rather large
open design with extremely fine
threads holding the design in place
are woven with dots in = the style
known Us bouclette--that is, curl or
loop, This makes very light dot.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

GUS summer and journey content.
edly cOllegeward, outfitted with a
handsome coat like that shown at the
left of the two illustrated. When the
time comes to 60, there is nothing
more consoling to one of the younger
generation than a piece Of fetching
millinery and wrap that is impress
sive and here is the limit Of richness
to be allowed the. college girl. The
coat has the hall marks Of the sea-
sons styles in Its low. bloused waist
line, its trimming Of very narrow silk
bands and its loose straps. The fluffy
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
HOME = 7
TOWN - g
HELpSR
effective PLEA FOR ZONiNG
Practically impossible to Construed
Proper Sewerage System Without
Up-to-Date Arrangement.

The value Of completely zoning q
city or village is demonstrated In
many ways. One of these Is in the op-
portunity 1t gives the engineers to de.
sign and build sewer systems on pre-.
else information as to the character.
number and use Of buildings that will
occupy the district which the sewer
system Is to serve.
The information derived from the
zoning ordinance and the official maps
will tell him in advance that the area
to be drained is zoned, say, for Q
single-family district. This means to
the engineer a smaller density Of pop.
ulation, smaller volume of sewage,
shallower and smaller sewers
Without coming, the engineer is
obliged to estimate the type and in
tensity Of the development of any
given district and design his sewers
on the basis of his estimate.
If in his estimate he did not pro-
vide for large Numbers of apartment
buildings or hotels, requiring provision
for a much greater volume of sew
age and deeper easements to be
drained, his sewers will be found tC
be inadequate to take care of the dis
trict as it finally develops.
The inadequate sewer is distressing
and costly, as it means the backing uI
Of the sewage into Easements, in
volving the loss Of property by flood
ing, the expense Of cleaning out the
filth and silt which are deposited after
the water has seeped away and thu
menacing the health of occupant!
of the bulldings.-From Report O
the Zonlng Committee Of the Western
Society of Engineers.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

and then down the sleeves and across
their edges to make design of SIM
plicity Ly which the whole tone of the
frock Is established.
On some of the newer summer
dresses there are seen sleeves that are
long and tightly fitted. They are most
ly Of lace or Of some transparent ma.
tcrial, and more often than not they
have some trailing scar1like affair
dropping from them. But there have
been seen these sleeves, and on the very
NEST advanced models, that are tight.
ly fitted even to the wrists and then
are allowed to flare over the hands
in a most picturesque manner.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
TWO HANDSOME SCHOOL COATS

a luxury. At the right of the picture
a chemise and knickers are shown, of
pink cotton crepe, which answers per-
fectly for school wear.
A very practical slip is shown at
the left of the picture. This has
proved very convenient garment,
suited to the current styles in dresses,
and is often made of sateen. In the
sheerer materials it usually has hip
depth hem or double panels at the
back and front, for shadow-proof de-
vices. The slip pictured is intended
to be worn under sheer dresses and
the body is provided with a front
panel of lace.
One may turn the back on a Joy
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

fur-natural opossum-exactly suited
to youth, makes enchanting collar and
cuffs.
There are many deep-pile fabrics
with many new names) in coatings,
made up into garments of the dressier
sort. Coats are loose with full
sleeves and fur trimmings are abun.
dainty used, but some of them have
deep rolling collars of the material,
fulled a little at the back. Innings
are usually made of silk crepe, often
In a color contrasting with that in the
coat, and this gives the designer an
opportunity to add a flavor of youth
to n rich garment
The pretty utility coat, at the right
of the picture, reveals the fine hand
of the expert designer of clothes for
the young. 1t is straight-line model
that advocates the return of the nor.
NAL waist line and accomplishes its
purpose adroitly with loose belt in
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Aarem Wells

Straight over to the harem Paris
has gone for the latest idea in wells
Worn with one OF. the marquise hats
those close-fitting satin or taffeta
creations with spreading, winglike
sides-the veil is of finest chantilly or
of some silk lace. The veil is pointed
and long, hanging well below the
waist. 1t is fastened to the hat on
each side, at the top of the ear. and
allowed to fold softly just over or lust
beneath the chin. OF course the thin
lace does not hide the features, and
neither is it any protection, but it is
new and it is quaint.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

NIHEN the subject Of undergar-
w ments comes up for discussion
the first thing to be settled is what
sort Of material Is to be used. The
choice lies between silk and fine cotton.
In silks crepe-back satin, radium and
crepe de chine have won the confidence
of buyers. In cottons there are fine
smooth muslins, batiste, nainsook and
cotton crepes to choose from and the
last mentioned seems to be making an
assured place for itself.
The tailored styles prevaiI, which
means that trimmings. other than those
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
IOCOnCentrate
-. on the Sleeves

We hear all sorts Of rumors about
the sleeves that are to come-whether
they shall be tight or loose, flowing or
plain--but always 1t is the sleeve, 1t
seems, around which the clothes In
terest centers, observes a fashion
writer in the New York Times. Col
lars, skirts, bodices and Wristbands
keep their own Importance in the
scheme Of things, but sleeves remain,
still, the center Of attraction.
There is no known fabric, no known
method Of trimming, no clever adorn-
ment for feminine attractiveness that
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19


vertised so much and it did 80 many peo-
pie good that began to take it myself.
I am feeling fire now and every one tells
me they never saw me looking SO well. I
live on farm, do all my work, and have
three little girls to take care Of. / am
recommending this me dicine to my
friends and know it will help them II
they use it like do" Mrs. HERBERT
LONG, R. r. 8, Box z, Larwill, Indiana.
Many women keep about their work
when it is great effort. They are al
ways tired out and have no ambition.
When you are in this condition give it
prompt attention.
Take Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable
Compound, for it is especially adapted
Mrs. Long.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

an Underlying area OF Gray Georg-
ette Tucked in Group for Trimming.
has not been applied to the scheme Of
sleeve construction and with the ut
most success as result. Each wom-
an who at all prldes herself upon her
dressing as mark Of distinction for
her personality pays much attention
to the manner of the shaping Of her
sleeves. There Is where the art of the
modern gown is concentrated. BY the
swing and sweep Of the sleeve Is the
style OF the frock established. The
sleeve, by all odds, carries off the
bulk of attention. And SO 1t shall be
during the coming season-so the de-
slgners have decreed, If their advance
models are to be taken as any crl-
terion.
BY their sleeves ye shall know them.
That is the new style slogan. The rest
of the gown may be SO simple thai it
Is absolutely devoid Of interest. 1t may
cleave to the common level In every
other particular, but as for its sleev, =,
there 1t excels Sleeves are the imput-
tance Of any gown. They are the
points Ivy which you tell at once wheth
er it is in the class Of the ultra smart
or not. They may be plain, indeed,
but they somehow manage to place
themselves as the center around which
all interest revolves. That is their
distinction In the modern plan Of dress.
To Be in Height of Fashion.
So see to your sleeves if you would
be "in the swim" of fashion. Do not
allow them to sink to the level Of
mediocrity. They are your banners of
fashion. And no matter whether their
folds sweep into the soup, they still
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Paintinu Old Walls.

Old walls, especially of kitchens,
have thin layer of grease and smoke
upon them that mag not be perceptible
but which will prevent paint from ad-
herring properly. Before being re-
painted they should be washed thor
oughly with soap and water, to which
little ammonia may be added, and
finally rinsed with water.-Exchange
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
How Zoning Saves Money.

1t is estimated by the city engineer
of the city Of st. Louis that Zoning
would have saved the property owners
about 10 per cent of the cost of sewer
construction.
If this saving is true in the case of
sewers, IS it not equally true of the
other services which combined make
mighty sum?
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

must carry that gracefulness which
is so essential part of the frocks that
are new. The sleeve has only Just be-
gun to evolve. It promises, during the
coming season to establish real style
interest never before achieved In ex-
actly the ratio that this sleeve era
shall attain. So, what could be more
Of fashion interest than to study the
sleeve as 1t exists today, with an eye
to its evolution in the future?
In one model there Is used q com.
bination of white against black kasha
cloth. Then to Join the two together
there are rows Of handwork In en-
broidery done with black threads. But
1t is in the sleeves that the real de-
enough to be sure, but they carry with
them that certain style which marks
them as an insistent part Of the mod
ern era.
The blouse of this particular dress
Is cut in the kimono fashion that Is
so dear to the heart of the French.
But the sleeves slope away in a very
informal manner and then they are
tied together with a band Of the. white
kasha cloth made to form sort of
a tassel. They are inconspicuous
enough, but they have that certain air
of being the points of interest that
dignity the gown as a portion Of the
seasons mode. Again at the neckline
! the band is used to tie the collar to
gether and these three ties serve tc
form a pattern that draws the whole
design OF the garment into one.
The hat Is white. as one might ex
pect. and 1t Is faced with layer OF
black, while the roll that forms the
trimming about the crown Is made o.
white velvet twisted until 1t forms 6
sort Of rope,
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Testing Mothers Sympathy.

Mother" said little George. don't
you feel sorry for that poor lttle
dog? He looks hungry"
Yes" said his mother, get him
plate OF food"
After George had fed him he said:
"Mother, do you feel sorry enough to
let him stay all uight:"
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
CapeIike Sleeves.

The sleeves Of this gown are full
enough to run into sort Of dropping
effect at the back which, when the
capelike look across the back in
spite of the fact that they are YER
liable sleeves when the arms are posed
at other angles.
This is one Of the happy parts Of
the modern sleeve. Besides being a
sleeve, it Is usually something else.
They, together, form cape, scarf,
collar or what not? They are, only
to begin with, sleeves, but they usu-
ally have some other function to per
form In the design Of the gown con-
sidered as a whole. There are sleeves
which reach into side draperies for
the skirt And this they do most ef-
fectively.
For instance, there Is dress of
brocaded silk In gray. 1t is straight
enough and plain enough by itself. But
then there are the sleeves. They are
folded and draped ana flung over the
arms and when the chiffon has fin
for their very beauty then 1t takes it.
self into the skirt where it Is draped
and folded to such an extent that it
makes tho real interest of that skirt.
OF course the drapery congregates at
the sides and at the hem 1t falls In
points over the hemline. But the
sleeves are the things which start the
idea and from them the folds Of the
skirt take their way in unplloyed en-
joyment. To finish the gown there Is
wide band Of silver lace to make the
girdle and then there Is chou of vio-
let flowers made Of chiffon posed at
one side to finish off the girdle. On
the whole 1t Is notable gown, in per-
feet harmony with the style of the
present mode, but after all, Its sleeves
are the central points Of interest.
| From them the draperies that make
the gown distinctive emerge, and in
them are the lines that establish the
continuity Of the shaping Of the gown
itself
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
AvenQed.

Good heavens, man; pretty badly
smashed up, amt you? Anybody with
you?"
"Yes, the chap who was trying to
sell me this used car."-Harper's Mag
aZine,
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Use and Appearance.

'Do you think your bathing suit Is
proper?'
Proper enough as bathing suit
replied Miss Cayenne, though per
haps deserving of criticism as
scenery"
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Hair Dreesinn

Hair continues to be worn close to
the head, but hairdressers are show
ing some interesting adaptations of
the French twist, which allows greater
individuality. Use of high combs and
fancy hairpins continues.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Cuticura for Sore Hands

Soak hands on retiring in the hot suds
of Cuticura Soap, dry and rub in Gu
ticura Ointment. Remove surplus
Ointment with tissue paper. This IS
only one of the things Cuticura will do
II Soap, Ointment and Talcum are used
for all toilet es.-Adverttsement.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Pretty Sachet BAD.

The heart of a rose is the favorite
place for sachet. Either a milliner's
or n ribbon rose may be used. The
heart is removed and in its place
tiny sachet or powder box sewed in.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
GirdIeS.

Girdles this season are most inter-
esting. Some are scarcely an inch
wide, and others develop until they
become the most noticeable thing on
the whole frock. The metal ribbons
are much liked for this purpose.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Evidence Of Title.

Mrs. Pester-They're going to cut
out the question, "Who giveth this
woman in marrlage?" from the cere.
mony.
Her Husband-So I hear. They'll
probably require the bridegroom to
show bill of sale instead.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Black and CRYSTAL,

a black georgette dinner frock is
effectively trimmed with large crystal
beads. stationed about an inch apart
over the entire surface.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Low Heels on Shoes

Sensible heels are the order of the
day, whether for sports or dressy
wear, the most extreme heels seeming
low compared to mGny that were worn
fen years ago.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

ways uEeu OuI 60O
had no ambition, was
nervous and dizzy
and everything
seemed to worry mo
and / had awful pains
In my right side. /
felt badly about four
years and could not
do my work as it
should b ave been
done. I saw Lydia E.
|Pmkha ans Vege-
|k~hv~ Al
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Coin Spots.

Large coin spots are again making
their appearance in foulards and
voiles, but they are not so striking as
they used to be t. regard to color.
Violent contrasts are not the rule.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

Some folks think castor oil should follow
a dose of Nermifuge. Not necessary wth
DIR. Peerys, It's Dead Shot" for Wor,as
and Tapeworm, one dose cleans them out.
II Il does not. refund your money.
S72 Pearl Street, New York City.-Aave:.
tisement.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Where To Draw the Line.

A promising young man" Is all
right so long as he doesn't make it to
her In writing,-Nashville Tennesseean.
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
Lace and Beads.

Dinner gowns of black lace are rem.
dered more ornate by outlining the
lace pattern with small black beads
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
ALWAYS TIRED :
NO AMBITION
Nervous and Dizzy, Every
thing Seemed to Worry Me.
How / Got Wen

Larwtll, indiana. my back was %
bad II could not do my washing. was al-
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

II contrasting material. The raglan
sleeves are emphasized with novel
trimming of the darker material that
sets off the large cloth-covered but
tons. The collar may be fastened up
about the neck, and this coat looks
very capable rs a barricade against
all kinds of winter weather
The hat of wool yarn is crocheted
and trimmed with braided band of
the wool, ending in two short, full tas.
sale
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19

The man who is dissatisfied with his
work is never happy.
New Methods.
Calling upon friend, the visitor
found another visitor there in the per-
Middletown transcript., 1922-08-19
THE DEFT ART OF DRAPING VEIL

which Is at the same time durable and
effective. AS it Is part of the veil
and not lying fiat against the surface
it Is more becoming
The Washington herald., 1922-06-20
A.F. OF |. LEADERS
PLAYING POLITICS
Morrison's Opposition
Treasurer Tobin Leads
To Retaliation.

-. CINCINNATI. June 1s.-Labor
politics are near the boiling point
at the A. F. of l.. convention in
session here. The friends of Dan
Tobin, treasurer of the federation,
took steps to make Secretary Frank
Morrison behave.
Morrison has been reported as
favoring the candidacy of Joseph
A. Franklin. running against Tobin,
for treasurer. Just to show Morri-
son that more than one can play at
politics. Franklin's friends put will
lam Clark. pres dent of the Flint
Glass Workers, in the field against
him as secretary. Clark Is not an
active candidate. Admittedly he
has been put into the race merely
to line Morrison up for Tobin and
he will be withdrawn. it is gen.
orally believed, II Morrison drops
his support of Franklin.
The day was spent for the most
part in reaffirming previously re-
corded opinions. Opposition to the
sales tax, the ship subsidy and -un-
restricted immigration was again
recorded.
The Washington herald., 1922-06-20
BALTIMORE WEEKLY
LIVESTOCK MARKET

BALTIMORE, June 19.-Cattle-
Receipts for week ended noon to-
day 2,424 head, against 2,397 last
week; "a carloads for week. Choice
dry fed cattle about steady. Pain
and cows, steady. Steers. choice,
$S.75aSS.15:; good butchers. s7.25a
$S.25; medium. $6:75a$7.5O: common.
ss.00as6.50. Heifers. choice. s6.75a
$3.50 fair to good. s5.75a$6.5O; com
mon to medium, s5.OOas5.50. Bulls,
stable fed choice. s5.25aS5.75: fair
to good. $4.50a$5.0O; common to
medium. s3.5Oas4.25. Cows. choice.
S5.00as5.50: fair to good, s4.00aS475;
common to medium, S2.00aS350.
Maryland and Pennsylvania cows
generally 81 lower than above quo
tations.
Sheep and Lambs-Receipts for
week ended noon today. 4.31S head.
against 1906 last week. Light sup
ply; market dull and lower. Sheep,
$1.00aS4.50; lambs. s7.o0aS13.75.
Hogs-Receipts for week ended
noon today, $500 head. against IA
270 last week. Light supply; mar
ket higher. Lights. s11.sO: heavy
to medium. s11.6as11.s0: pigs,
s11.75: light pigs. s1o.75; rohghs.
S6.O0as9.10.
Calves-Receipts for week ended
noon today. 1873 head. against
1,672 last week. Liberal supply:
market dull and lower. Calves,
s4.ooass.5o; common and medium
grades bad.