The Rock Island Argus and daily union. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1920-1923, 1922-01-25

fashions has turned out to be sole
ly bluff. American women are STEP
ping meekly into long, voluminous
skirts after all their outraged pro-
tests. In Hollywood, which is al
ways a trifie in advance of all other
American communities in obeying
the mandates of Paris. the ladies
fare already literally draped from
their chins to their ankles and New
York femininity undoubtedly will be
enduring similar stylish discomfort
by the first warm days of spring.
As late as month ago, Wig
! orous stand was still being made
here in the east for the continual
ton of the short skirt. 1t was, its
adherents declared, healthy, grace
full, youthful and American women
having known the comfort of IN
hampered stride, would never, new
er relinquish it for the new, clumsy
elongated style. Why, they asked
should the possessors of the most
youthful figures, the slimmest
ankles and the most attractive shoes
and stockings in the world copy
the French? Why, indeed? Why,
because the force of circumstances
is so great they have to.
/ What these enthusiasts (as well
as all fashion reformers) seem to
overlook is the fact that the Amer
lean woman who depends upon
ready-made clothes has no control
over what she wears. The large
garment factories do not consult
her in changing the styles. They
make no effort to canvass the taste
and opinion of the feminine public
before deciding upon their new
models. They do not even seek the
advice of the large department
store buyers, who are in a position
to know what their customers want.
In act, they do not even consult
themselves. They merely follow
| the lead Of Paris.
The Judgment of Paris.
1t must not be supposed that the
! American manufacturers of Tom-
ems wear particularly enjoy the
role of follower. They would nat
urally much prefer to control their
| own fashion market. Never since
the industry began its phenomenal
rise have they ceased to resent the
domination of Paris and to plot to
overthrow it. With this end in view
they have lured many French de-
signers away from the famous
Partisan ateliers and planted them
at great expense on the island of
Manhattan. They have persistently
famed the fame of American de-
signing genius. And they have
talked necessarily of ignoring the
dictates of Paris. Yet, in spite of
all these determined efforts. they
have failed because their specially
is the production of many thou
sands of garments, whereas the
Partisan courtiereS concentrate
their talent and energy upon a few.
During the war when the crea-
ton of fashions received a terrific
setback in Paris, it was believed
that the day of the American de-
signer had come. French control
had slipped for the time being.
Here was the long-awaited chance
of escape. For the first time in
their lives American modisteS with
exclusive establishments just OFF
Fifth avenue, dared to boast that
they carried no impOrtations-tha
all of their gowns were designed
on their own premises-"made IN
America" But the armistice had
scarcely been signed when it be-
came apparent that such an indie
pendent policy could no longer be
maintained. The Partisan yoke had
lifted only to fall with even great
er emphasis. In another SIX
months the skinny, short-skirted,
sleeveless, reckless, war modes OF
Paris, inspired by the drastic need
for economy in labor and materi-
ais, were achieving enormous pop
ularity in this country.
If the French felt any misgivings
about the stability of their power
over the American fashion market
during the war, this immediate
postwar triumph must unquestion-
ably have relieved them. For their
latest demand is extremely bold.
They are demanding that the wom-
en- discard their skinny, war-dic-
tated garments that have become
so dear to them to don long. vol
luminous, medieval frocks that lack
for the active
young woman of today. The new
mode, like the war one. is dictated
by expediercy. In fact, according
to Americans returning from Paris,
it is the inspiration not so much of
the French couturieres as of the
French government. 1t is designed
for the benefit of the
French fabric industries, which
have been suffering recently from
a great surplus OF materials and la
Dor.
Not long ago, it seems, the con-
dition of these industries became so
desperate that a delegation called
upon the French ministers of the
interior, requesting governmental
assistance.
French Official Fashion.
who makes the fashions of the
world?" these gentlemen inquired
who is responsible
for the amount of material that
they use? Who but the great cou-
turieres of Paris? And behold the
modes they are at present Great |
ing! No skirts in the daytime No
bodice at night. Three yards of /
stuff for a gown when we used to |
sell ten. For them all goes we'll |
The less material they employ i'll a |
CONNECTION the higher the price they |
ask. But for us! Do you realize |
that all the best velvets, b-ocades, |
satins, silks, fine dress fabrics of |
all kinds are made in France? Do !