The New York herald., 1922-07-30
Not as Expensive as Whisky
or Other Wines Favored
by Public.
HAND TO MOUTH BUYING
Champagne Dead, Also Cognac,
Both Killed by High Gov
ernmcnt Tax.

Special Cable to THE NEw YORK HEgALp.
Copyright. 1922. b. THE New YoRK Herald
New York Herald Bureau.
London. July 20.
England is again developing taste
for old tawny port. and. according to
reliable figures. the couptry is con-
sumine more of this than of anv
other wine. The romantic old port
rooms made famous by DR.. Johnson in
his age arc reSainins their old glory,
and the days when mans drinking
ability was measured by the number
Of bottles of port consumed after din
ner threaten to return.
This outstanding development has
been brought to the attention of wine
merchants since the war. At first
they believed it was a passing fancy,
as the medicos were outspoken in
their warsings against the generous
and habitual consumption of port, but
now they are ready to admit that
there are signs of England returning
to the drinking habits of a hundred
years ago.
Port More Expensive.
There is more than one logical reason
for this. The best wines como high.
owing TO tax Ievies, and the whisky fails
to satisfy many seasoned palates. be-
cause virtually all of it is 80 per cent.
under proof. Port, though 1t has in
creased proportionateIy in price Is not
as expensive as other favorites. as
bottle-costs we'll under half the price
for whisky.
At the same time. Che vintage port
available in the old haunts, such as III
Vino and Sherif's Bodega short COM
pares favorably with the old fruitiness
and carries gratifying kick. Mine
host states that all classes Of society
seem to be turning to port for solace.
despite the medicos' unanimous verdict
that 1t will bring gout and rheumatism
and cause the maladles of early age,
which 2 couple OF centuries back cut
down so many OF the country's brilliant
men before they had had an Opportunity
for proving how brilliant they were.
Queries as TO the consumption of port
have brought out from the dealers many
other interesting facts on England's
drinking. The people are no longer lay
ing down wines. The old vintages OF
claret are actually cheaper than quite
recent vinta ges. The public cannot OBJ
tain good wine at a reasonably cheap
price in the fashionable restaurants
owing largely to the careless table man
ners OF the younger generation.
Connoisseurs Are Fewer.
Charles A. Labin, head OF West End
Arm OF wine shippers. said Port is
among the general public4at the present
time. Much greater quantities of this
are consumed than any other. but the
connoisseurs, alas ar fewer nowadays.
Vintage port no longer exists save in
few private cellars. but branded ports.
with tawnies the favorite chiefly favored,
are very good.
People who formerly laid down wines
and rare cognacs no longer do. They
cannot afford II. Even in entertaining
guests they are buying. as IL were, from
hand to mouth in quite small quantities.
Champagne in this country is dead
also cognac-killed by the high Gov
ernment tax. There are large auanti-
owing to the combination OF high first
cost and heavy duty IT is beyond the
means OF even the well-to-do. The
principal demands are for medical pur-
poses. Burgundies and Clarets are
plentiful and cheap and the old vintages
are actually cheaper than the recent.
because shippers stiH have large bins
full. and they are forced to realize on
these in order to lay In newer ones for
later consumption"
He said that young fox trotters were
responsible for the high prices for wines
in the restaurants, because they paid
more attention to dancing than their.
table. tipped over the glasses. left lighted
cigar rettes on the tabecloth or ficked
them onto the floor. causing heavy losses
annually to the fashionable cafes. which
were forced to make UP by charging
prices for wines about 100 per cent.
above retail.