The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-04-23

Clueu 10 place THIS Spleuul0 specimen OIL
her reset jewels nearly on top of the
head, leaving the brow free OF metal and
slightly covered with a pointed bang Of
short curls. She also pulled a mass of
short curls out over each ear and drew
the rest OF her locks into loose curly
knot on the crown of her head. This
was somewhat the couture of the EN-
press Josephine, which was a reminder
in the days of terror that the wearer
had come near the guillotine.
When the Queen arrived at the en-
baSsy she wore an emerald green and
gold brocaded wrap over a classic white
gown built by drapery with an orsission
of color. 1t Is q rather curious twist
of circumstance that our artist should
have sketched the Queen at Gen. and
Mrs. Vnderbt's and also have sketched
her at the Belgian Embassy two years
and a half apart.
Bandeaux Go Back to Old Rome.
The fashion for head covering was
suggested to the moderns by the
medieval clothes which the designers
put upon us some while ago. In the
middle ages it was considered immodest
for woman to appear before any one
but her husband with hair showing.
Queens were the only ones exempt, for
they were regarded as above reproach.
So many a Queen of the middle eyes Is
reproduced for us in stone effigy with
| flowing locks. though this privilege
would have been denied to q woman OF
| lesser rank.
Thus the wimple and other hair con-
/ cealing headdress of the middle ages
was regarded as a matter of modesty as
much as a matter of fashion. Women
1 ax.x-fs f..
with which they might pluck out any
hayward hair that dared to appear be-
meath the confines of veil or wimple.
And even Queens waived their special
privilege and hid their hair In token of
rnodesty or the desire to appear modest.
Katherine de Medici wore the peaked
bonnet Of velvet and pearls which her
daughter-in-law. Marie Stuart, handed
down to fame and history
Historians tell us that all this late
middle age squeamishness about show
ing the hair may be traced back to Saint
Paul. who believed that II was shame
for women to appear at public worship
with their hair uncovered. However,
we do not follow the Pauline theory or
the medieval tradition very closely. We
cover our heads after fashion, but we
do not conceal our hair.
Variety in Bridal Bandeaux.
The bridal veil may also be traced
indirectly to the Pauline teaching. Even
when fashion has neglected head COW
ering for indoors we have deemed II
only fitting that the bride who goes to
the altar should have her head modestly
covered with a veil. The veil. however.
has gone through all sorts of tEansfor-
nations from time to time. Sometimes
it hardly covers the head at all. but is
attached TO a bandeaux of pearls or
orange blossoms that encircle the head
leaving the crown quite bare. Some OF
the bridal headdresses that we have seer
within recent years look as IL they had
| gone back TO Egyptian or Alexandriar
prototypes rather than to the fashions
OF early Christians. But the orange
lossoms-symbol OF maidenly purity
1 persist. They persist even when they
| are mounted on a bandcau OF truly pa
| gan ancestry.
In spite OF Queen Elizabeth's depart
ure from the rule OF placing bandeauS
low upon the forehead, the bridal head
dresses OF the season for the most part
| incorporate q bandeau that Is drawn
down low upon the forehead. touching
| IL not covering the eyebrows. The mode
OF attaching the veil at the back Of the
head with the lace or tulle forming
a fan shaped decoration at the back OF
the head, seems TO have passed. out OF
| fashion. Occasionally the lace veil Il
draped to suggest tho Spanish mantilla
But here. as elsewhere. II Is evident that
Spain has taken a side step IN favor oil
Russia so far as fashion inspiration
goes.
II is the fashion to wear headdrcsse:
that show a simple binding OF the head
with ribbon or cords in manner thai
IL truly classic. But sometimes these
so-called classic bands are used in Q
manner quite different from that EN-
ployed by classic Grecians In the ar
rangement OF their fillets.
One headdress seen here and there II
Paris makes Use of several yards Of
gold ribbon which are wound round
about the head with a crossing at tbs
front A long neavy vassei of gold hang,
from one side over the ear and hangs
down over the shoulder at the back. 4
device like this makes earrings re
dundant