The New York herald., 1922-09-03

find many ribbons. especially MORE
ribbons, some fur. breasts and wings,
a little ostrich. coz feathers. silver. gold
and tinsel. A novelty consists In run
ming a series of quilts through the brim
at one side, the feathers sticking out
beyond the brim and the ends of the
quills in row up the side OF the crown.
Summing up, we may say that the
winter season promises hats or me-
dunn proportions and deep, rich color
ing, with the accent of the fur, spice
and leather tones, which seem also to
be the favorites of tho dressmakers.
Millinery, so far. is rather restrained
and dignified. with q. suggestion of
period more formal and conventionally
regulated than our own.
The season, however. Is young, and
that interchange Of ideas which takes
place between the well dressed client
and her modiste has not yet begun.
Moreover, millinery is extremely sus-
ceptible to outside influence and its
general lines are far more flexible than
those of our clothes. As this is written
the dressmakers are still in the creative
period, and by the time their winter
models are actually worn hats may
have changed considerably.
1T Is interesting to note consistently
straight the silhouette remains In spite
of the addition of new draperies and
flaring godets In many of the afternoon
and evening costumes. The frock (6770),
which is especially good for school. be-
cause 1t slips on over the head and has
a conveniently placed pocket. Is admir-
a hi0 davainnad- i.-- supple vIIvustI ~
ADMIT OF a row of shirrng at the yoke
hne. Tete de negre and beige kittens
| ear proad-cloth combine effectively In
the scallop trimmed frock (6772). which
wears It's sleeves very long or very
short, as the mode dictates.
Mouse colored Bokhara. a broadcloth
| with decided luster is one OF the new
winter fabrics particularly suited to the
softly tailored street frock (6S06). With
this chic model Is worn an unusually
shaped crepe collar In beige, embroid-
cred in copper and brick tones of metal
thread beige suede belt studded with
nail heads marks the waist line placed
Just below normal. The fact that the
| frock slips on over the head and thus
| opviates the necessity of fasteners Is an
added feature in its favor
Black, which is taboo for the girl In
her teens, is quite acceptable il it's
medium is velveteen, which is attrar-
tive and at the same time serviceable
a snugly bodiced frock has the approved
low waist line and full shlrred skirt.
Inc tiny, cape sleeves are trimmed with
TWO rows OF futed grosgrain ribbon and
one may add bishop sleeve of crepe
II desired. A cocarde of black ribbon
IS placed at the waist line. slightly to-
ward the front.
Matelasse is one of the favorite ma
terials for coat dresses, but one model
is OF gray velours de laine and has a
skirt slightly draped to the right side.
where there are two stitched peats Just
vide enough to give freedom for walk
ing The cuffs and the collar, which
may be worn open or closed, are of
Hudson seal. The sleeves widen slightly
at the wrist.
Many of the new models show the
combination of materials. as In a charm
Ing velvet froclS and cape In which the
bodice and side panel are OF supple
white kid embroidered in black in a
Russian design. The tucked cape and
large collar are of the velvet lined with
imitation ermine. Lelong.