Arizona republican., 1922-02-01
Ripley

have become so dear to them and TO
don long, voluminous medieval frocks
that lack appropriateness for the ac-
tive young woman of today. The new
mode, like the war one, is dictated by
expediency. In fact, according TO
Americans returning from Paris, IL is
the inspiration not so much OF the
French couturieres as OF the French
government. 1t is designed especial
ly for the benefit of the French fabric
industries, which have been suffering
recently from great surplus of ma
terials and labor.
Not long ago, II seems. the condi-
tlon of these industries became so
upon the French minister OF the Inc
terror, requesting governmental as
sistance.
French Official Fashions
"Who makes the fashions of the
world?" these gentlemen inquired in
didnantly. who is responsible for
the amount of material that they use
Who but the great couturieres OF
Paris? And behold the modes they
are at present creating! No skirts in
the daytime. No bodice at night.
Three yards of stuff for gown when
well. The less material they employ
in a confection the higher the price
they ask. But for usl Do you realize
that all the best velvets. brocades,
satins, silks, fine dress fabrics of all
kinds are made in France? DO you
comprehend that French designers are
running one OF the great industries Of
France and impoverishing the coun-
try? And then we talk about the
Vaccinations OF our enemies. II il
high time for the government TO act
against these traitors at home.'
After going into the facts and fig
ures presented by the delegation, the
government agreed so the story goes,
that this was most unfortunate
state of affairs. A remedy would
have to be found az once. So con-
ference of the famous Partisan de-
signers was called by the ministry of
the interior, who ordered them 10
change the styles Immediately, to
create new models requiring large
quantities OF materials-especially
French materials-and thereafter TO
bear carefully in mind the interests
OF Ia Patrte" in providing fashions
for the world.
The couturieres lost no time in car
rying out these orders. They turned
back TO the Middle Ages for their in
spiration and started creating models
with skirts OF mammoth proportions
which trailed the ground. The rich
brocades, Velvets and satins of the
French mills. which had been neglect
ed, We're now strenuously in demand.
One famous Partisan modiste has de-
signed her latest gowns upon such
peculiar lines that they can be cut
only from two-yard wide material
which is made only by French con-
Germs. To reproduce the same ma
terial in this country, it is said. the
mills would have to install new looms.
Everything about the new styles is
typically F'rench--the flower and
bead trimmings and the silk fringe,
and especially the wool astralxan
trimming which, as France Is not a
fur country, is used as a substitute for
fur.
Great Designers Prove Meek
Apparently, it never occurred 10
any of the great designers 10 resent
governmental interference with their
art. one. who was questioned on the
subject by an American woman in
Paris, declared that he was only too
glad to use his skill for the rehabili-
tation of the French industries. Per-
sonally, also. he thought that there
should be a limit to simplicity.
Women he said. were getting al
together too fond OF dressing in knee
length sacks with a string around the
waist. Last year, having cast off
nearly everything else, they even
eliminated sleeves. Fashions were
growing monotonous. 1t was time
for a radical change"
Nevertheless. in spite of this pro-
fessional complaisance in carrying
out the orders of the French ministry
of Interior there was. at the begin
ming. slight hitch. This was oc-
casioned by the French women, who
exhibited no patriotic alacrity in
adojting the new modes. The step
from the straight. knee-length frock
TO the medieval skirt was too radical
to take effect at once. Only the
American women in Paris seemed to
have the necessary agility. Thus, the
designers for a brief interval were
compelled to compromise. The long
skirt, they saw, would have to be in
troduced gently and gradually, first
by the addition of floating side pam
els and draperies and then with a
slightly lowered hem until the eye
and ankle became accustomed to the
new line. SO. by Ingenious means,
the long, full skirt has at last been
adopted by the parisienne and in due
time is certain to blossom forth over
here.
THE REAL COUNT
Sunday School Teacher-Jimmy,