Evening star., 1922-04-16
Will White Clothes Change the Facial Make Up of
NE RTTEN1OUSE Takes Up the Late Fashions From New AngDo
Youh Demand Whte?-The popular Fabrics for and Summer Wear
Most Women Wear All Black Better All Wte-Duis Por
of Complexion When White Worn What the French Designers Are Doing
Usnda Girdle foraC Collar

fTencn ulSneS.
1t was this nation, therefore. that
took up the process of turning one
garment into many. The French de-
signers, who always have their ears
to the ground, devised the type of
costumes which the American has
never taken seriously: the maEne-
quins of Paris have exhibited 1t with
a smile of amusement each year since
the second battle of the Marine.
When the mannequin first appears
she Is costumed for the street. Her
frock is velvet or homespun. She
takes off her coat and one discovers
her in a magnificent blouse that
reaches to the hips and Is suitable
for lunch or the matinee.
She drops the skirt in the salon.
always getting that gasp of surprise
which she awaits. and stands reveal
ed in skirt that matches the blouse
and makes her ready for an after
noon dance, for the theater, for a
dinner at a restaurant.
The way in which the American
designers have initiated this trick is
to bring out a mannequin snugly en-
street. There is a short cape Of the
Sir Walter Raleigh time, straight
double e-breasted jacket. belted and
finished with army pickets. which
also smack of early Virginia and the
Indian fighters and tobacco growers.
There Is an apron skirt, cut circular.
and buttoned over the hip. Beneath
this garment is a pair of loose bloom
ers, fitted to the hips, also supplied
with pockets. You can see the aero
batic performance OF the mannequin
in your minds eye. This performance
brings back a quick glimpse of cir
Gus days, when the acrobat walking
the wire threw off all the clothes and
appeared in tights. One has child
ish expectation of these tights. and a
kind of happy giggle drops into the
silence of the gray salon. The one
who giggles remembers the glory OF
the white trunks and the spangled
loin cloth. the pink lemonade and
the bag Of peanuts.
\ X X
A FTER all is said and done. there
~ is not vast gulf fixed between
affords u.s. A parade of mannequins
in a ceremonial dressmaking house
often needs ust the ice cream cones
to put it in line with the sawdust and
the ringmaster's whip.
By this time the world Is some
! what familiar with the large trick
cry of dividing a costume into more
parts than Gaul. Every country club
knows the skirt that can be checked
in the locker, the cape that can be
left in the car, the jacket that can
be discarded for the silk MILDLY blouse.
AS a nation Of sportswomen we are
more apt to quickly adopt French
ideas for sport clothes than for cere-
monial ones. Possibly the French did
not invent this box of tricks which
the tailors call sport costumes. But
they invented the idea of wearing
two or three costumes in one.
What is interesting this spring IL
the use of certain accessories out OF
place To wrap your girdle around
your neck is a funny thing to do.
Yet 1t is done. A Russian designer.
Lady Edgerton. who goes under the
trade name of Paul Caret in Paris,
has taken the apedded oriental belt,
which Lanvin lifted from ancient
folklore and made fashionable last
August, and turned it into collar.
She has done this on black crepe
coat with a blistered surface which
they call "cloque." The whole coat
is lined with Natter blue crepe geor-
Rette, the same fabric which makes
the gown worn under the wrap. The
coat in itself is novel and has at
traeted much attention from women
who search for the unusual, but the
oriental collar is the really brilliant
touch.
Lanvin uses 1t for q belt. Lewis
uses it for a turban. If one should
carry economy to its furtherest linn
its this padded roll Of two fabrics
could be dropped from the turban to
the neck whenever a woman chose to
change it. If made elastic it could
also be used for a hip girdle.
Evidently our young people are say
y saying, in effect: Let France do
as she pleases about the neck line. \
We wear white collars"
The French gowns continue their
shoulder severity. Over here in
America the younger set is making
a run on white collars. They are Of
organdy, butchers linen. with a hand