New-York tribune., 1922-05-21
Radiant Gowns

NdQldnt Towns
Editors Note. - The wedGtn1
aoaO,as sho,vn today .ceYe selected by
the great French dressmakers, 4ohose
creations they are, especially for this
newspaper. Thsy arc shou1s by tho
courtesy Of Madeleine ct Madeleine,
Molyneum, CoHot, Che,~it and
Chanel.
A S ALI. the world loves a
~ lover, so does all the world
< "A love bride. The royal
cortege of Princess Mary
set forward more than ever the
fashion for the really ceremonious
wedding. The Paris dressmakers
have never been more occupied with
the complicated details for conven-
tionalized weddings than at the
present time.
In France marriage is always a
serious affair, one which seemingly
has more 70 do with the families
Of the two contracting parties rather
than with them as individuals. 1t
has become SO more markedly i'll
England this spring than hereto
fore, and, Judging by the trousseau
orders now in the hands Of Paris
dressmakers, there will be many
brilliant weddings in America in
the late summer and early autumn.
Every Paris dressmaker has her
own ideas of what wedding dress
should be, but practically all Of them
have agreed this year OH the
sumptuous ceremonious type. Bro
cade having gone out of fashion, it
has become necessary to literally
cover the dress with embroidery.
Callot is using considerable silver
cloth, of that radiant type known
RS fulgurante. While this is woven
Of metal, it is as supple as silk.
She is embroidering silver cloth in
hAoSe eidpoidN way Will ldTSe,
beautiful sprays of flowers done in
artificial pearls, crystal beads and
metal thread She is also doing
some wonderful Japanese designs in
silver cloth.
The Sumptuous Note
In Bridal Robes
MoLYNEUX emphasizes the use
of large artificial pearls in his
embroideries and uses sheer fabrics.
upon which he places these weighty
ornaments. Jeanne Lanvin shows in
replica the jewel-ncrusted and en-
\ hroidered dresses of the Italian
Renaissance court styles. Madeleine
? ct Madeleine keep to the simple
Greek and Roman idea, using border
bands and fibula-like ornaments.
Ali of the wedding dresses of the
present season have stately trains in
court fashion from the shoulders,
and others attached at the waistline
cniy. All lines arc slender and
graceful for the bride. Only the
bridesmaid is hoop-skirted, and this
only occasionally, as those by Ian
vim. This latter well-known maker
persistently holds to her full-skirted
models. They are particularly
charming for the brides attendants.
This season Lanvin makes the
skirt touch the floor, and it is iln-
mensely wide, with the waistline
seemingly pinched in, though the fig
ure is uncorseted. Made in shot
taffeta, in either brilliant or pastel
tones, nothing more picturesque as
an entourage for bride can be i'm
agined than half a dozen brides
maids dressed in the 1880 style in
crisp cleaning taffetas in the tones
Of water ices-pistache, raspberry,
strawberry, lemon and orange sher-
bet, the white shot threads in the
color giving just that frosty look
which beSpeakS the Slmlie.
Gheruit and Chanel are standing
cut strongly for bridesmaids dresses
in dyed lace in combination with
Ceorgette and crepe de chine. These
are exquisite in their colorings. The
richness of the lace makes it possible
to keep to the very simple lines and
the brilliant color adds youthfulness
to the lace, ordinarily deemed ma
tronly article.
In headgear for the bridesmaid
it all depends on the type of the
dress. With the wide-skirted cos
tune OF the Lanvin type the broad