The New York herald., 1922-01-08

n IDWlNIEh functions, incTedS-
MI ing in number and Importance,
= tax the ingenuity of modistes
to meet the demand for evening gowns.
The struggle to provide frocks suitable
for the dance and yet dignified enough
for more formal functions has resulted
in two slhouettes, the full skirt inspired
by Spain and the slender, soft drapery
introduced by the French.
The picturesquely bouffant fashions Of
ancient Spanish modes find great favor
with the woman of to-day, not only for
evening gowns, but often for afternoon
frocks.
The Spanish gown shown in the bot
tom picture Is characteristic, with Its
low, pointed bodice, Eugene shoulder
line and pronouncedly full skirt. 1t
might have gowned Velasquez beauty.
so typical is it of the feminine costume
of the land of the toreador Satin
crepe and metal lace are two of the
mediums in which this dress may be
developed. and they are also the only
materials needed, for they form q rich
combination and no ornanentatton Is
required. The butterfly bow, which ties
in the back. is cut in one piece with
the pointed front panel Of the bodice.
The slender evening frock embraces
the charms of swaying draperies, which
few women can resist. Velvet Is used
In developing the dinner gowns. but for
frocks for dances are designed with an
appreciation of the sheer beauties of chif-
fon. georgette crepe or lace. or OF
lustrous silk crepe and soft crepe satins.
This type Of evening frock, which.
though 1t has no inconsiderable rival In
the bouffant gowns of the season, Is so
lovely with its graciously falling
draperies that II may well be confident
of favor.
In the gown on the left the skirt
possesses unusual merits, for the draping
is of great distinction and charm. The
cascading, Watteau drapery over the
right hip, is complemented by the chic
ripple at the left. while the favored un-
even hem line is achieved both by the
elongated sash end and the point of the
tunic, which extends below the skirt in
back. The low waist line. softly draped
above the crushed grdle, and the sur
plice closing are two great assets. ~
Banished to a past season are the
evening frocks of extreme decolletage,
and this is not surprising when one
notes how much youthfulness Is added
by the higher neck line. For extreme
simplicity and distinction chiffon velvet
Is used. The gown on the right Is de-
veloped In black, which shows to adj
vantage the moderate decolletage in
evening costumes. which, together with
high, sleeveless arTnholes, offers an. ei-
fective contrast to white neck and arms.
while the soft folds of the fabric subtly
mold the lines of the form under its
gracious draperies and folds. a twisted
of metal holds the draperies In
place at each side of the low waist line,
marking on the left hip the beginning
of a cascading, Vatican drapery and
on the right hip an unusual treatment
which affords a charming use of con-
trasting material or color.
Slender of line and delicately fash
ioned is the gown Of lace and metal
tissue. in the center, with beautiful
design of back Chantilly lace pat
;ern displayed to the best advantage.
Following the line OF the irregular ylirt
draperies. which ripple gracefully at
each side. are groups of tiny. applied
silver rose petals caught securely at one
point and finished with a picot edge.
The sleeves, which might almost be
called wide shoulder straps. are of the
lace and form part of the unusually
pleasing and softened neck line. A wide
sash OF either the lace or metal tissue,
or Of another fabric altogether, is tied
loosely on the right hip.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue Magazine. New York