New-York tribune., 1922-10-29
Wagnel.'s Ideas
On Costumes
Lately Revealed

/ The friends of Nine. Cosima Wag-
ner, greatly exaggerated report" Of
whose death was recently published for
the second time, hove learned with
satisfaction that she continues to re-
sist valiantly these anticipated necrol
ogies. Forty years ago this distin-
guished woman survived the genius Of
which others were the inspirers, but
Of which she surely has been the provi-
Dental superintendent. The master
did not err when, at the end Of his sem
timental life, spent in diverse expert
ences, he fixed upon her forever. How
ever reserved he is in his memoirs on
this last passion, nothing has remained
yelled, The Germanic idyll 3 la Jean
jacques {Rousseau), besides, ended in
marriage, and all is thus well that
ends we'll. Everything was thought to
have been published on the subject, but
now several letters have como to light
which the most informed Wagnerians
declare have not hitherto been pub
; iished. Noel Charavay possesses the
originals. They arc addressed to o
Parisian seamstress, Nine. Chaillon.
They are concerned only with the robes
Of Nine. Cosima Wagner, but they COM
piete with piquant details one of the
most expressive portraitures OF his
character.
We know already, says Georges Mon
torgueii, IN "Le Temps" Of letters to
the Vienna seamstress, Bertha Galdwy.
He addressed them to her at the epoch
when' he had installed himself In q
villa at the gates Of the Austrian cap
ltal, In Pensing. He admitted that the
care to decorate his retreat and to
work there, clad according to his fancy,
took him precious time. The con-
tact with an overwhelming luxury, re.
enforced with wild, noisy colors, had
| become to him an indispensable stimu-
liant. dc ordered for himself at that
time no less than twcnty-four dressing
gowns at once, and their dazzling
variety equaled their number. People
laughed at his dress pre-occupation.
Would they have permitted themselves
this irreverence If he had only, as q
snob, adhered to fashion, without origi-
nality? He was in dress, also, an in
! novator. Even rs his music was only
his own, his dressing gowns were bor-
rowed from no one. He sought In them
for the accords, and in his manner
he harmonized their tones. "a garment
that tends to be a masterpiece" a
tailor has said, ais a symphony"
Many professed to see in this fan.
tastic vanity of dressing q manifesto
tion of "Narcisssrn" and the delirium
OF an ezasperated egotism. The fol-
lowing letters will correct this malevo-
lent Interpretation. The first is dated
November IL, 1863:
Mime, Chaillon: / have 'confideu-
tial order to give you, for which / en-
flrely rely on your good taste and your
I good sense for the circumstances.
I'D like to have for Christmas Day,
TO give to the lady whose measure is
perfectly known to you. kind of long
cazavoika Cor polonaise) Of black vel
vet, richly lined and trimmed with fine
peltsse. | understand that, above all,
it is question of the price of the fur.
! / therefore ask you to make ME an
| estimate. I would rather not surpass
| the price Of 1000 francs for the whole
cazavoika.
with this order from you defini-
lively "a costume of black satin that
must be composed of several materials
for street wear, with or without the
cazavoika, and also for the house, even
for neglig6e, which would make COM
position of several garments that can
serve to complete each other
"For this rely on your we'll proved
genius and remain, with the greatest
consideration, your devoted
RICHARD WAGNER"
The creation of this costume en-
crosses him. In vain do his publishers
and friends pursue him; he is all given
to Mime. Chaillon; the "Valkyrie" must
wait. Besides, an ill.timed blue pre-
vents him from sleeping.
II answer you in haste to tell you
not to mix blue with the black satin
toilette, because Madame has already
black and blue costume. So keep
entirely to the black satin"
| What is true in music is also true