Evening star., 1922-02-12

fingers are flying fast In some Of the
dressmaking houses to make hsir
bandeaux ana wreaths Of flowers
from scraps Of the material to match
the frocks with which they are to be
worn. You have noticed, too. the dis
position OF smart women. for several.
months to cover their feet and legs
perhaps present fashions prompt us
to say ankles" instead-with the
same color a. their frocks. Often the
slippers are actually made of the
same material Is the frock.
Laces, which play an important
part in clothes that still show an
afterglow Of the vogue for Spanish,
are dyed to match the material on
which they are used. This is effec-
lively achieved In frocks Of gray or
brown with matching lace, that stand
out with much distinction In a sea-
SON when many have given UP these
drab tones almost entirely for the so.
called high 'colors.
Then. plus the continued vogue for
crepe de chine, the forging to the
front Of chiffons, put it down on the
corner Of your mental notebook
where you keep such bits Of informa-
tion that ribs are part of the new
mode-ribs In silk, ribs in cotton,
ribs in woolen material and ribs in
wool-flled silk materials. Oftenest
they are tiny ribs like those you are
familiar with In faille. Often they
are hne cords.
This opens way for covert cloth
that the dressmakers have not, over
looked. Don't let your prejudices for
this excellent material get the upper
hand. for surely that prejudice was
based on the color Of o1d-time covert
cloth, which seemed a. II 1t might
have been hit upon after an attempt
to find tho tone that could most clev-
erly bring out the sallow tones in
the skin Of most women and which
would be becoming to the least
number.
Tho new covert Is Of . silvery color.
It is so soft ana silvery that you ifesi-
tate to call it gray. And while there
is always q numerous class of women
who are wise in turning down any
thing suggestive Of gray, this new
covert color quite enhances a certain
sort Of good looks. And it is un-
doubtedly smart
y X X y
THE twiued silks come to US in
many new guises and with many
names. Silk serges. batavia and
something that resembles a poiret
twill, only Of silk rather than cotton.
are among them.
Kasha materials play q leading role
and will until warmer days give the
cue in this country to heavy fabrics
to make as graceful an exit as pos
sible.
Women who study clothes merely
for the profit that their knowledge
gives them in selecting their own
usually do not give quite the thought
to this question of materials that it
really. deserves, 1t deserves, 1t be-
fails to carry q note OF chic all be-
cause Of the material from which It
Is cut. More than most of US sup
pose, the successful dressmakers and
designers select their materials just
as an artist selects the sort Of paint
he will use because Of the ability OF
some particular material to convey .
certain design. to carry q certain
style.
To a certain extent. the style ten
dency OF any period can in measure
be discovered merely by the fabrics
employed. Tulle and tarlatan, Sause,
barege. jaconet. organdy, alpaca. Chi
nese taffeta, poplin. mohair, grenadins
and English velveteens-these were
the materials Of the first days Of En-
press Eugenie's reign-light-weigh
but substantial fabrics that con-
formed to the demand for many
gathers and q 'billowy silhouette.
The women Of the directoirs an
early empire period chose India mus
Inns, China silk, sheer linen ana
oashmeres, the very names of which
suggest the moro classic lines Of early
century styles.
Nowadays you can't be quite SO ex-
act in your deductions. Dressmakers
and designers work seemingly very
close to fabric makers, and the looms
Of tho great silk and wool and cotton
makers seem to be clay in the pot
ters' hands Of those who design. I'll
fashions call for lines that are
straight, then satins and velvets. tat