South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1922-07-16
MOTORISTS PROBLEMS
Solved for Readers of The News-T
BY WILLIAM H. STEWART, JR.

L Il a 1917 Ford Have put IN
new rings and taken up on con
Meeting rod bearings but stu
knock IS there Sounds similar 20
connecting rod knock but is dis
tlnctiy heard through a steel pipe
along side Of base OF engine where
the cam shaft is and % the same
knock or sound a. each cylinder or
connecting rod bearing and knocks
louder when engine is not pulling
Heard no place else through pipe.
Please advise SUBSCRIBER.
A knock OF this kind IS very
difficult 20 locate unless you are ex-
rerienced. From what you have
stated it appears that most Of the
trouble is in the cam shaft Per-
haps the cam shaft bearings are
badly worn and this OF course is ag-
sravated 10y the action or the
valves The only remedy Will be
% install new bearings
Motor Department: An automo-
bile mechanic advised a friend %
mine TO remove set Of high ten
ton transformers from HE car
claiming them 10 injure the coil
and engine Can YOU confirm his
claim or advise IN what manner
they would be Injurious 20 a car
before ! have mine equipped F. s
III you have a good Ignition sys-
tenn, tested and approved by the
manufactures OF your car. e is not
advisable or necessary 10 use trans
formers or any other device Use
first class plugs and keep them In
condition as well as the other ignl-
ton units and You will obtain salts
factory results.
Motor Department: Rusty water
has boiled out around my radiator
cay and discolored front OF the
hood. Kindly advise If there Is any
thing 1 can use to restore or partly
restore original color without a new
paint job on entire body Of car
is.
Once the varnish has been dam
aged 1t Is impossible TO restore u
except ~ rafnishing. Cleaning and
polishing with lemon oil is good II
the varnish IS not too far gone. You
might try it. Any drug store or
paint supply store should have it.
In stock.
Motor Department: I am driving
& 1920 F. p. Chevrolet which has
run fine until lately, but now If you
try 10 speed it up it splits back
through the carburetor. and then
again If you open throttle quickly
it wiz not take gas but Will choke
and stop. Have cleaned carburetor
and vacuum tank, timer has been
taken care of, valves ground and
carbon cleaned out. Sometimes it
Will run fine and all at once will
start acting up. Has been In four
different garages, but no one seems
to be able to find the trouble Please
advise me- through your motor coli
ums. L. H
The symptoms Indicate water IN
the gasoline. Just a few drops will
cause the trouble. Would advise
draining the main tank also the
vacuum tank and strain all the gaso-
line through a channels before re-
placing. Also thoroughly clean both
tanks and pipe line. An obstruction
in the pipe line. partially cutting
off the supply of gasoline at times.
would cause the trouble. Open
drain valve at bottom of carburetOr
before starting engine. this will tend
TO eliminate sediment and water be-
fore II has a chance to cause
trouble.
Motor Department: What Is
meant by the danger point i'm the
radiator? Is it a given degree of
heat or when Il reaches steam pres
sure? My car Is in perfect cOndl-
ton as TO running and power. all
rules pertaining to timing. carbon,
mixture. flushing the radiator etc.
are closely followed; the radiator
consumes very little water (tbermo-
syphOn SYSTEM. After a run not
exceeding twenty-five miles per
hour, atm osphertc temperature
about seventy degrees. 1 End by
placing a thermometer into the wa
ter at the radiator cap It VIII regis
ter 220 degrees. Is this about the
rights average or do different makes
at cars vary? c. p.
The danger point Is where your
radiator Is steaming. as the engine
IL then Overheating. Yet the nearer
the jacket water comes 70 2i2 de-
grees the more power you get from
the engine. Your Thermometer
must be wrong as 212 degrees Is
the hnillnr mint ~ w ter