The New York herald., 1922-08-27
ATEST TOURISTS OF EURO

fur around the bottom and a fur col
lar A white coat for evening wear, Is
smartly embroidered all over and
trimmed In brown fur. Old silk bro
cades are used in coats. One Is par
ticularly handsome in red with a Indo-
China design in gold and trimmed In
brown fur. and there is still another
red one embroidered all over In gold.
There is a smart black coat embroidered
in steel beads and coat of old gold
velvet, embroidered In steel, and worn
with a dress of the same velvet and
embroidery An automobile coat In light
brown sleather was worn with dark
brown dress trimmed In the same light
leather.
Little Change for Premet.
The Premet collection of models can
also be described as being thoroughly
Partisan. There is much that is new in
the Premet lines. The majority of the
dresses for day wear are perfectly
straight slips, with a waist line but
slightly marked by a bit of trimming.
There is occasionally a suggestion of the
circular movement in an insert In one
side of the skirt, while the other side Is
straight line from arm hole to hem.
The skirts of such dresses are but little
above the ankle.
There are most wearable blue serge
models of this type. One is excep-
tionally smart in navy blue serge, a
straight slip. with the waist line marked
by a narrow band of black satin.
stitched flat, and big black satin tie
on one hip. Several of these dresses
have a new note in three tier skirts,
with the tiers cut In the skirt instead
of being flounces stitched on 1t. The
Premet sleeves are long and straight
and fitted to the arm.
Crepe dresses are featured for after
noon wear and they too have that very
straight slender appearance. with full
panel, either circular or pleated, set In
on one side of the shirt to give more
breadth. Crepe de chine. crepe Georg-
cite and a heavy crepe marocain are
the fabrics used in these dresses. Beaded
embroidery plays an important part in
the collection, but none of the dresses
! is elaborately beaded.
Bright colored velvets are favored for
evening gowns, which are cut on the
same straight lines with often the cir
cular or full panel insert at the side,
forming train. Some of this type are
slightly draped up on one side but
never losing that straight effect on the
opposite side.
The general note of the Doeuillet col
| lection Is wearab)e dresses on straight
| simple lines. Skirts are inclined to be
long. those for street wear just to the
ankle and the afternoon and evening
dresses bit longer As to tailored cos
tunes, one piece dresses and skirts with
separate bouses are worn with jackets
of good hip length.
A great feature is made OF these one
piece dresses in velours de laine. serges,
duvetyn. crepes and various novelty tis-
sues. all of which are on perfectly
straight lines with no more OF the point
ed sides The sleeves are long and
straight and fitted to the arm, and necks
are high. There are no models with
the bateau neck except for evening wear.
| In the day dresses the fancy belts
seem to have vanished. The waist line
Is still long, and in almost every model
narrow band is inserted to join the
skirt to the bodice which Is invariably
straight, loose and fiat. model called
"Parisienne'' was the greatest success
In this type Of dness. 1t was dark