The New York herald., 1922-08-27

wine-red novelty tissue, OF nne silk
braid. The skirt was perfectly plain and
straight. with an attached bodice of
mousseline de sole, of the same shade.
| trimmed In bands of the braided fabric.
and there was jumper jacket OF the
same fabric as the skirt. finished around
| the hips with band OF wine-red satin,
tied in saucy bow at one side and a
high collar OF the satin tied with the
same bow at the side.
Straight Lines General.
The more dressy afternoon frocks
were of beige, gray and brown crepes.
Black was, apparently. entirely out OF
the question. Bright red crepes beaded
In Steel metal brocades and metal laces,
| figured extensively In the models for
evening wear and this type OF dress had
the same easy appearance that was the
feature OF the day dresses. There was
but little of the draped effects, the ma
jority of such dresses carrying out the
straight lines which are rapidly prov
ing to be the one general note OF the
season. Many of those dresses had
skirts fiat in back and front, with
little gathered funness over the hips,
and no separate panels and frills.
The Beer collection Is still another
composed of good wearab BILE models. The
tailored costumes and one piece dresses
are made on straight lines with skirts
ri about the same length as those of last
season. The evening dresses are the
charm of the collection and give the
effect OF great brilliancy. Silver cloth
| b-ocades and soft velvets are beaded
and embroidered In the most striking
designs. making the collection one of
the most picturesque that has yet been
shown. The majority of these models
are draped on long lines with skirts
touching the instep and single side
panel forming a long train to assist In
giving the effect of length.
The Madeleine ct Madeleine collection
| Is one which. as usual, pleases the Amer
\ leans with Its great variety of styles
There Is no one note that stands out as
a feature in this collection in the matter
of general fines unless it is the use OF
Crapery inboth afternoon and evening
di esses. great many perfectly straight
dresses are shown, but Madeleine has
always favored graceful drapery. which
| is distinctly her own.
/ Many of the day dresses have skirts
which are much fuller than those of last
s"ason. Some of them are gathered at
| low waist line and~ others have the
fullness in gathered inserts only from
| the knee The length of the skirts is
interesting inasmuch as they appear to
be long enough to stretch point TO
hide big ankles and short enough to
stretch the point in the other direction
to display shapely ones.
Day dresses are somber in color and
are usually of the one piece type, worn
with short jackets or with long capes.
Many practical little frocks are shown
to be worn under fur coats which are
a great feature of the collection. Shaved
lsmb, which Is so extensively shown as
| a novelty of the season, Is used in coats
and capes and also as a trimming, and
there are fur wraps of every description,
| al of which are made on big and roomy
/ lines. a
Evening dresses are bright In color
and made of gorgeous fabrics which
lend themselves to the draped lines
Royal blue Is favored color and often
| 1t is combined with light blue. Soft
veivets are frequently used in these
models which are draped over one
| shoulder, while the other shoulder Is