davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1922-08-24
ARREST Ex-MAYOR OLES.

r;eorre L Oles, who resigned az
MAYOR two months ago. after q stormy
administration, today was arrested
snd taken to the police station In a
patrol wagon to face charges OF ob. %.
rownstown market. The complaint
was made by Morris Squires. proprietor
Souires and Ofes have engaged in
bitter personal exchanges through
lsheir newspaper advertisements Tor q
long period. The former mayor gave
bond Of SD for bis appearance later
FOR Eearing.
Evening star., 1922-08-24
To Board Battle.hfp.
HUGHES IN NEW YORK.
Secretary and Wife Prepare for
Voyage to Brazil.

By the Associated Press.
NEW YORK, August 24.-Charles
E. Hughes. Secretary Of State. ac-.
companied by Mrs. Hughes, arrived
today from Washington and spent the
day preparing to sail this afternoon
on the tPan-America for Rio de
Janeiro, where he will head the dele
cation representing the United States
at the Brazilian centennial exposition.
Secretary Hughes will be met at 4
o'clock by Rear admiral Carl T.
Vogelsang, acting as chief naval aide,
and conducted aboard the Pan-Amer-
lea at Hoboken. All accommodations
on the upper promenade deck have
been reserved for the delegates.
Evening star., 1922-08-24
INDIVIDUAL ACTION
. ON RAILWAY STRIKE
Roads May Act Separately
in Ending Trouble With
d Shopmen.
CONFERENCE STILL ON
Secret Sessions Held to Mediate
Dispute-No Results of DELHI
erations Announced.
CONFERENCE STILL ON
By the Associated Press.

By the Associated Press.
NEW YORK, August A@"It's
now mp to the shopmen,n said q
spokesman for the big i've brother
hood chiefs this afternoon after
they had conferred with . commit
tee representing q group Of about
twenty roads ON a proposition for
enectfng separate settlements be-
tween individual roads and strik-
ing shopmen.
This was taken in some quarters
n Indicating that Representatives
Of the running trades and repre-
sentatives OF roads totaling about
Is per cent Of the mileage of the
United States had reached some
sort Of definite proposal for settle-
ment, which had been reported to
the shop crafts at . meeting with
the mediatinE brotherhood chiefs
which followed the session with
executives.
A member Of the shopmen's east-
ern strike committee made this
comment to Newspaper mens
"ITl tell you that there's going to
be no settlement with any nine-
teen railroads. You can put that
I'm your pipe and smoke it,
NEW YORK, August 24.-Repre
sentatives of score Of railroads ant
the big Ave brotherhood chiefs con
ferred at the Yale Club for abou
three hours today on the possibilit!
of effecting separate agreements be
tween Individual lines and thei
striking shopmen.
1--WE are still mediating," sal,
Warren s. Stone, spokesman for tn
brotherhood men, when the meeting
adjourned at 1:2s pm. without an
nouncing whether another session
would be held today.
The chief Of locomotive engineer
declined further to discuss tn
maatine. which was surrounded b.
the utmost secrecy He hastened Z
the Hotel Woodstock to confer at labo
headouarters with leaders OF sta
tionary crafts.
s.~.r.te Agreement Prospect.
The possibilities Of Individual line
settling with their striking shopmel
was raised by leaders OF the runnin,
trades, appearing az mediators. at |
conference yesterday with the entir
membership of the Association o
Railway Executives, which rejecte,
the proposal of the brotherhood mel
that the rail heads yield on the dis
puted question of seniority rights
Encouraged by q belief that individ
ual settlement might yet prove tn,
basis for peace, the big Eve leader,
conferred until midnight with head
of a score Of more executives, VIII,
when the general conference ad
iourned expressed 4 Willingness I,
continue negotiations, although re
affirminE their common stand agains
the unionS seniority proposals.. The
Continued on Page 2. Column -
Evening star., 1922-08-24
both SIDES AWAIT
ANTHRACITE MOVE
Signs Still Lacking, However,
That Deadlock Will Be
Solved Soon.
$4,000 MINERS RETURN
Leaders Call Back Central Penn
sylvania Men, Practically Ending
Soft Coal Tie-Up.
$4,000 MINERS RETURN
By the Associated Press.

By the Associated Press.
PHILADELPHIA, August 24.-While
both sides were said to be in receptive
mood today, there was no sign of a
move either from the operators or
miners toward suggesting a solution
of the deadlock over the situation in
the hard coal fields which resulted in
breaking up the peace parleys hero
Tuesday.
John L. Lewis, president. Of the
United Mine Workers, said that he
did not know when he might leave the
city, although it hah been his inten-
tion to do so today. He might stay
two days longer "to clean up affairs" "
he said.
Reported in Touch With Hoover.
Samuel w. warriner. president of
the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Com
pany, who led the operators repre-
sentatives in the recent negotiations.
held a consultation yesterday with
W. J. Richards, president of the Phtla-
delphia and Reading Coal and Iron
Company, and both were reported 1, to
have been in communication with Will
liam A. Glasgow, jr., the attorney ap-
pointed by Secretary of Commerce
Hoover to bring the opposing sides in
the anthracite controversy together.
Mr.. Glasgow would not deny he had
been in touch with washington In
regard to the situation.
"If I had been in touch with Secre-
tary Hoover" he said, 'it would be
impossible to state in what respect"
He refused to confirm the report that
' he had received another request from
President Harding to bring the
,nthracite miners and operators
committees to a renewal Of negotia-
tions.
$4,000 ORDERED BACK.
Evening star., 1922-08-24
GEN. HARR0RD DUE SOON.

Mai. Gen. James A. Harbord, deputy
chief Of stan Of the Army. who has
Just concluded q visit Of several
months to Europe, 10 expected to ar
rive in this city next Monday and re-
sumo his duties ut the War Depart
ment. Maj Gen. James II. McRae,
assistant chief Of stan. who has been
in charge iii the absence Of Gen.
Harbord, has been granted leave OF
absence for twenty days and Will
nnakea whit to the Panama Canal
Evening star., 1922-08-24
By the Associated Press,

By the Associated Press.
LANSING, Mich. August 24.-Coal
concerns close to the Federal Fuel Ad-
ministration "are getting theirs and
getting it first" William w. Potter.
state fuel administrator. charged in a
statement today following his return
from Washington. where he endeav-
ored to obtain a greater allowance OF
priority coal for Michigan.
Mr.. Potter declared the public is
not in control of the distribution of
fuel and that coal Is being daily Of
fered at exorbitant prices. He as.
serted further that inability or dse-
inclination of the Federal Fue><Ad-
ministration to furnish Michigan suf-
ncient coal for its necessary needs
makes it evident enough coal cannot
be gotten into the state in time to
prevent serious discomfort and pos
sible loss Of life.
Coal Operators ON Board.
Declaring that coal operators COM
prise the advisory board of the Fed
eral Fuel Administration, Mr.. Potter
asserted:
When a handful of men may
throttle the American public and de-
mand double fair price Of coal, 1t is
time this American people was TAX
ing some action to change the per-
sonnel or the activities Of the fed
era! government"
The state fuel administration de-
clared that not a pound of coal has
come into Michigan on priority order
at the contract price. Applications -
he stated, go to the advisory com
mtttee of coal operators. If the pri-
ority order should perchance be
handed to the coal operator having
the contract. he would refuse to fill
1t and pass 1t along to some one else
having no contract relations and
thereby get the Hoover fair-price
instead of complying with his con-
tract"
Break Is Impending.
Indications of a break between the
Michigan state and federal fuel ad-
ministrations unless prompt steps
are taken to relieve the acute coal
shortage in Michigan were apparent
today
Gov. Alex J. Groesbeck made a
statement sharply criticising the fed
eral fuel administration. When he
was informed by Mr.. Potter that the
advisory board of the federal admin
istration is composed of coal op-
orators. the governor declared:
ut Is strange state of affairs
when an advisory board, composed OF
Evening star., 1922-08-24
u. S. Relief Head
Bandits Victim;
Loses $4,000
By the Associat ted Press.

BY the Associated Press.
BATCM. August 24.-Bandits
forced an entrance today into a
first class coach of a train here
and robbed the chief of the Amer
lean relief organization of $4,000,
which had just been received from
America.
This is one Of a number Of train
robberies that have occurred In
the Caucasus, and as the result the
Cheka of Tiflis has issued orders
for the summary execution of any
bandits that may be captured.
Evening star., 1922-08-24
$4,000 ORDERED BACK.

BY the Associated Press.
ALTOONA, Pa. August 24.-Union
leaders today were notifying their
5(.onfinued on Page Q, Column g.
Evening star., 1922-08-24
WEATHER.

Unsettled weather, with showers
and probably thunderstorms tonight and
tomorrow; no change in temperature.
Temperature for twenty-four hours
ended at 2 pm. today-Highest, S5, at
$3.50 pm. yesterday; lowest, 81. at
5:30 am. today.
Evening star., 1922-08-24

The Associated Press is exclusively entitled to
the use for republication of all news dispatch
credited 70 II or not otherwise credited in this
paper and also the local news published herein.
All rights Of publication Of special
dispatches herein are also reserved.
The New York herald., 1922-11-12
Bright CoIored Clothes
For Men in Winter

Copyright, 1922, by Vanity Fair. New York.
For winter wear mems clothes should
be as bright in color as possible. There
Is not much latitude for men in this
respect, therefore a gay muffler saves
the day. because It is one of the few
touches OF bright color n man may in
dulge in without overstepping conven
ton. For day wear the popular muffler
is now of soft wide cashmere, with bold
stripes or squares in bright colors. A
muffler In blue and yellow stripes looks
very well with a dark blue or brown
coat. One or two shades of blue
squares, like the one illustrated above,
is also very smart with a blue overcoat
Any combination of colors will go
with a gray overcoat or one made OF
the new fabrics of a mixture OF two
colors. For evening wear a man can
have nothing smarter than a black and
white silk striped muffler. or one OF the
woven fluffy silk ones which fold softly
about the neck.
The correct way to wear a muffler is
to wrap II high about the throat so that
II is very conspicuous above the over
coat collar. The muffler should not be
laid about the shoulders and crossed in
a discreet V in front so that IL barely
shows under the coat for It is then not
doing the work that it is intended to
namely. protecting the throat against
cold weather.
Well dressed men Of to-day arc wear
ing the semi-gantlet cut of glove known
as the "slip-on." This glove has no
opening at the wrist. II Is made loosely
so as TO slip on easily and come up well
The New York herald., 1922-11-12
New Notes in Winter Modes.

Copyright. 1922, by Vogue. New York
6s79-One of the most popular
modes of the season is the short
coat which is here shown in
cinnamon brown matelasse. The
collar is worn open or can be
buttoned tightly about the throat.
Hugging the hips, its only ap-
parent fastening is the seal
brown velvet ribbon which ties
in a lose bow and exactly matches
the skirt.
6951--An admirable companion for
this coat is the blouse-so popu-
lar at Deauville this season. 1t
is made of tan crepe de chine,
and its only trimming Is the
stitching on the collar, cuffs and
the banding, which is drawn
snugly about the hips.
5953- Brown crepe marocain is ef-
fectively combined with tan ma
telasse in this afternoon grown.
which has the front drapery as
its most important feature. The
material cascades from beneath
the two covered buckles into
points at the bottom over the
tight underskirt. The bateau
neck line is enhanced by the
pointed yoke of the matelasse
and aids the long tight sleeves
in giving the new narrow shoulder
effect.
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

material being covered with design
IN heavy darker mauve silk, "couched
with fine crystal beads. Patou claims
to have a speciality of very small, round
metal beads. formerly used only for
evening bags, which he masses eftec-
tlvely i'm flower or conventional de-
signs, mingled with colors.
4 Renee Model.
Another evening model from Renee
illustrates another of her pretty ideas
the yelling with fine lace of beaded
underdress. a slip of black satin. short
and scant. is entirely worked over with
gold and red beads, and then the result
is veiled with black Chantilly, very full,
the fulness concentrated at the sides
In Renee's favorite way. and knoted In
huge bow on one hip. Bows find
themselves placed differently by differ
ent houses. A white satin model from
Jenny shows a great bow loop ~ the
material on one hip; a lovely pale gold
lame model by Worth has an immense
bow of shell pink faille ribbon at the
side back: Martial ct Armand places
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

Japanese bows at the waist in the lack,
the loops running up rather high.
Crepe frocks are drawn round the
hips and knotted In front. Others cut
on straight lines have their only fasten-
ing in "a great bow of the material,
which really ties at the side.
A white beaded velvet model from
Jenny illustrates another principle Of
the evening mode--the one-sided effect
which one finds in almost all the collec-
tions. A great panel of the velvet left
plain runs down one side of the gown,
while the other outlines the figure.
At Doucet's there is a gown of cerise
velvet draped to one hip. while down the
opposite side is great panel OF silver
lace. hung from the shoulder and COW
ering the arm. At Worth's, almost all
the evening decolletes are off one shoul-
der and over the other, with a jeweled
or embroidered strap which often, with
an ornament at the waist, shows the
only touch OF bright color on somber
gown.
Evening wraps at Worth's often show
great triangle Of embroidery, in dull
rich tones, running up only one side OF
velvet cloak. Every house shows mod.
els draped TO one hip; some show them
with one lace sleeve. the other arm left
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

bare; trimming runs up one side and
not the other; girdles run in a bias line
across the top of the hips; evening wraps
sometimes have a sleeve on one side and
cover the arm with the other. "a model
from Patou in green crepe carries out
this idea with a panel.
The circular cut and the use of cir
cular sections TO give godet pleats are
used by every house. In the evening
models. drapery really finds its best ex-
preston, and the draped models are
legion at all the houses The drapery
is pulled to one hip, or across the body,
or towards the front, as the case may
be. An interesting model from Lelong
Is In rose and gold lame with a far
shaped drapery in the front as the only
trimming. Often the drapery of the
model is inspired by the Greek.
skirt and Corsage Differ.
In almost every collection there is
at least one model with a skirt of one
material and color and corsage of an
other. a silver lame and lavender vel
vet gown from Beer is an illustration
of this. There are gowns OF all gold.
or all silver in many houses. A silver
cape, from Caret. completes one OF the
few wide skirted gowns found in Paris,
which is in silver repousse brocade and
black velvet. This was inspired by the
Venetian ball at the Opera.
At Martial ct Armand's there are two
silver evening gowns. with skirts wide
and trailing. Sometimes the heavier
lanes, In colo-ed silk and metal, are
made up this year into very straight
dresses, with a heavy embroidery of
fur at the hem. Lelong has several
examples OF these absolutely straight
gowns.
Molyneux has not changed his slender.
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

only slightly draped evening models and
he keeps them rather short at some
points in the hem-line. In opposition 10
many of the other houses, whose eve
ming models are frankly long. Chanel
still keeps her beaded slips of evening
gowns rather short.
The colored evening gowns far out
numbered the black. but in many houses
one finds black models frightened with
silver. gold steel embroideries, OF
touches OF bright color. Worth has
series of somber toned evening gowns,
dead leaf brown or grays, which give
new note in a world used to black. white
or vivid color at night. Cheruits eve
ming gowns are either of plain colored
material citron velvet for example,
made with very long wasted tight
bodices. and skirts draped low on the
hips. or showing her long slender line,
broken at the knees in front by a seton
frill of the material, or in her newest
line. which is short in front and trails
on the floor in the back, in rounded
train.
Series of Surprises.
Martial ct Armand show a new series
of their surprise dresses for example,
long beaded tunic of tango colored and
silver beads is detachable and reveals
simply draped silver gown under II,
which is its slip. but can be worn alone.
Beers evening gowns are very rich and
handsome, and his evening wraps are
particularly gorgeous.
Lanvn shows a few wide sltirted eve-
ming gowns of two types, those which
have their origin in the modes of the
Second Empire. and others which look
more like the Dutch school. Very deep
cape collars are favorites with her, as
they are with several other houses.
Renee uses lace ones. the lace dyed to
match the material OF the gown. some
times making bib In front and some
times cape in the back. Fur is again
used to trim evening gowns. Renee
bands steel lace with gray monkey.
Patou uses skunk Doucet belts brown
lace frock with sable.
Few artificial flowers are used, but
here and there one gives color TO
black gown. Embroidery finds fewer
exponents than beading, but 1t is note
worthy that it is used either only on
the corsage or only on the skirt OF a
gown and very seldom on both at once.
The day Of the exaggerated decollete
seems to be over for the present.
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

over the cuff This ty-pe OF glove should
be worn In a large size because II then
presents tho loose. careless appearance
The New York herald., 1922-11-12
Cult of Slenderness in No Dam
ger Of Losing Any Ad-
herents.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.

Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.
THE strong tendency throughout
the collections of models as
u sis,-,sd by the Partisan dress
makers toward silhouette which fol-
lows closely the natural lines, reaches
its most definite expression in the
evening gowns Many of them mold
the figure as closely as possible, and
there is no danger that the cult of
slenderness will lose any OF its adher-
ents. for slimness win be more ap-
preciated than ever. The perfectly
straight chemise. however, which has
been so often described as sack tied
in the middle. is absent from the
evening mode as it is from daytime
fashions. There is "cut" in the even
ing gowns, be they straight, circular
or draped
The evening gown without a train is
a serious rival OF its more formal sister
in many of the collections. This indi-
Gates that the designers expect the
dance craze to continue, in Paris. At
least, and have provided for 1t with
ankle length frocks. Deuillet makes
n novelty in the form of shaded velvet
gowns. beaded with crystal One OF
/, them shades from pale nauve to purple
end the other from yellow TO rich tor
toise she'll brown.
Premet has used the same idea OF
shaded velvet in a splendid evening
wrap of shaded rose velvet. beaded with
crystal, which is worn with pale rose
gown. Every one has used beaded vel
vet. the beads scattered symmetrically
over the surface, as in the velours perle
of Rodier, in which the work is all done
by the machine or in designs which are
more often geometric than realistic.
Sometimes the beading is done in great
horizontal bands, two or three on the
skirt and one on the bodice. Lanvin
likes this idea. and offers us black vel
vet beaded with steel or crepe de Chine
beaded in color.
These frocks of hers are sometimes
quite straight. with heavy hens. and.
in other examples. there is a curious
drapery of the lower part of the bodice
In the back only. while in thief ront the
corsage is fiat and the waistline almost
Mt It's natural place. Lanvin uses the
double belt idea, putting heavy girdle
curving up in front below the waist.
and another line much lighter. above it.
Sometimes we have the long tight cor
sage, as in a model from Martial ct
Armond. in rose velvet. which has a
suggestion of the modes Of the sos in
the drapery, all of one piece. around
the hips. They used to have long
wasted bodices, straight underskirts
and drapery about the hips, which
punched out in the back. as this modern
version is too wise TO do.
The New York herald., 1922-11-12
Apron Eject from Premet.

A gown from Premet illustrates the
silhouette which brings all the fullness
to the front in a sort of apron arrange
ment, often slit up the middle. and per-
fectly plain and frequently very tight in
the back. This model is straight rather
than tight in the back and Is made OF
silver lace. one of the greatest favorites
of the new mode. beaded with fine gar
net beads. There is a silver slip under
the lace, much shorter and more decol-
lete than the outer lace robe, and this
also is a typical note in the new coll
lections.
Jenny puts beaded lace gowns over a
short scant slip of colOred velvet. or of
metal lame. One Of her new short eve
ming gowns is of rose colored lace over
a slip of rose color. the lace entirely
embroidered with tube shaped blue and
round gold beads and with her new
handkerchief belt tied tightly about the
hips. bringing the waistlne to it's
natural place, the handkerchief being
made of the rose lace. the ends weighted
with bead balls. A very long. slender.
beaded gown has a foundation of gold
lace almost hidden by the beading Of
orange colored glass and crystal beads
while a supplementary little coat OF gold
lace is slipped over this gown. which is
so long that II touches the ground in the
front and so narrow at the feet that
the mannequin can hardly walk in ii.
Beads. indeed, are just as much in
favor as they ever were. Patou uses
beaded velvet for number OF beautiful
evening gowns, often specializing in the
yellow shades. One of these is In citron
yellow chiffon velvet. covered with a
large design In crystal beads. and
banded across the shoulders with skunk.
Another yellow gown of his is in r-oire.
Beer also has used this material for
few models. All the crepes are ept 10
be beaded, though beaded velvet Is
mower. A model from Renee. in her
favorite mauve crepe jersey. is draped
al la Grecque, the entire surface OF the
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

that a heavy weight winter glove
should. II is fact that a loosely worn
The New York herald., 1922-11-12

n glove which fits tightly. and II Is
also more in keeping with masculins
smartness