The New York herald., 1922-02-26

tune. Otfen Win THESE NlNNHfN ana
dresses a little scarf with the ends eru-
broldered IN the same bright Coiorcd
design IS tied az the neck or thrown
across the throat IN gypsy fashion A
navy blue fine woollen Jersey costume
has a blouse solidly embroidered On the
same Russian design. attached NJ a iow
waist line 10 a plain straight skirt
The Chanel skirt A. neither too LONG
nor too short. hut Is 90 a good wear
able lergth. being about ten inches from
the floor. and II hangs perfectly
straight and is wider than those OF last
season. Many OF the skirts have a
pleat or two on the sides 10 give more
breadth. but they can scarcely be called
pleated skirts.
Bateau Neck Line Replaced,
All sorts Of distinctly new ana pleasing
touches are given 20 the models. The
batcau neck line for instance 10 which
the dressmakers have persistentiy chung
for the last few seasons, Is entirely re-
placed by the square cut neck In order
to harmonic in line with the new Rus
siaE embroidery which Is composed of
straight and square designs. The same
square effect is carried out very cleverly
In the cut OF the waist line, which re-
mains long but without any emphasis
being placed on that fact. Straight and
square belts are inserted In the dress
giving them an easy and comfortable
appearance, and the well defined lines
of the frock depend largely upon the
cut of these belts. But the waist being
without ornamentation, the line is lost
sight of, and thus the long waist OF
last season appears in n new and sub
dued light.
There are four distinct features in
the Chanel collection: Sports cos
tunes, little foulard frocks worn with
capes or coats lined with the same foul
ard, youthful crepe dresses in new
shades of gray and beige. and velvet
capes to be worn with the crepe frocks.
A pastel blue crepe dress is worn with a
velvet cape slightly darker in shade.
Another is of plain color with a velvet
cape OF the same shade, ani still an
other of yellow crepe with black velvet
cape. These capes have a new move
ment being gathered around the hip
line and held up closely around the
figure, leaving the back to blouse I'm a
full bag. They resemble coats hut have
no sleeves. An exceedingly smart cape
of this type-is made of a new wrinlkled
and crumpled cire fabric In gray which
looks like hammered silver; It has
chincilla collar, bands up the front and
around the bottom.
The outstanding feature of The Worth
collection is as emphatically lace as
were beads in the Jenny display Laces
Of all kinds and colors, so Tong as they
are soft and easy to drape, are employed
in the afternoon and evening dresses,
and lace wraps in both capes ar6 coats
are extensively featured. Spanish laces.
cire laces of brilliant colors and even
woollen and silk are the ktnds most
fVar f1rY IA art
themselves particularly well to these
soft laces which are used in draped
Cverskirts or in flowing panels. Beads.
on the others hand, are not overlooked
us an effective ornamentatior. Elabor-
ate beaded belts with strings OF beads
hanging with the drapery at one side
are often seen, and then there is beaded
and palette embroidery on many OF
the frocks. And jet bullets and big Jet
heads can also be classified with the
heads. There is one model of white wool
and silk lace over black with a most
gorgeous belt of ivory beads; and coral
beads are also extensively employed In
the various embroideries.
The Worth skirts of the afternoon and
evening dresses are longer than those
OF last season. while the street skirts
remain of medium length. Crepes are
to be seen in both of these types OF
dresses and they are made in what has
grown to be almos the regulation manner
with the bateau neck line. long waist big
flowing sleeves and loose panels hanging
from either the waist line or the shoul-
der. Navy blue serge frocks figure ex-
tensively in the collection and they are
usually made on plain straight lines
belted at low waist line and with
white organdie collars and cuffs.
In the evening gowns the only de-
parture from the soft crepes Is the very
gorgeous robe de ceremonie." which Is
always a speciality of the house. This
type OF gown Is made of metal tissues
and draped on very long lines with a
motif of rhnestones holding the drapery
on one hip and diamond shoulder straps.
Favors Soft Effects.
Premet is still another house which
has given its verdict In favor of the
soft effects that only crepes can give.
The Premet tailored costumes are OF
particular interest, having many new
touches. The skirts Of these suits are
straight. plain. well tailored and Of a
reasonable medium length. and the
Jackets are of hip length and have n
smart and new touch by being tied
across the front by crepe de chine sasn
with a big bow at the side. These
SHSne9 are elUleT attHCneu 10 Ine jacket
under pleats on either side OF the back
and tie only across the front or in some
cases they are tied around a low waist
line as any belted jacket and give a
very youthful and smart dash TO the
costume. This same new tie is also 20
be seen I'm the one piece tailored dresses
and again ia the afternoon frocks. There
is the greatest profusion OF crepe
georgette and mousseline de sole dresses
which are draped around the figure and
left open st one side.
Beer is still another house which is
showing an exceedingly wearable col
lection of dresses. The tailleurs have
skirts that are not too short and on
plain straight lines with the smart
little hip length Jackets which are
belted at q low waist line. Sports cos
tunes on this order figure extensively
in the collection. and navy blue serge
dresses with little dashes of red, either
IN the leather belt or in buttons or ties.
are featured. There is the same pro-
fusion of crepe de chine. crepe geor-
gette, crepe Roman. crepe Marocain,
printed crepes. &C.. that Is TO be seen
everywhere. and they are made on the
same general lines with the boat t-shaped
neck, low waist line. flowing sleeves and
/ panels. but despite that fact they have
/ their distinction and individual touches
In the ornamentaton. Laces and beaded
I cmbroidcries are favored as trimmings
on fabrics OF tho brightest of colors.