The New York herald., 1922-02-12
Ribbons Also Play an Imp0r-
tant Part in the Early
Spring Millinery.

NNE of the most striking notes In
new French millinery is the re-
vival of the use of flowers,
which bring color, as part Of the re-
action against the wearing Of black.
Many Partisan milliners are placing
flowers. which trail over the brim, at
the side of wide straw hats. while
others weave underbrims with scarlet
poppies. Again, we And smart tailor
shapes in black straw trimmed with
immense punches Of scarlet or red
roses very much in evidence, These
flower trimmed models will not appear
until much later in the season. Straw
is the dominant material, but is still
so expensive that taffeta, satin and
Georgette are given much importance.
Tsffe:a is the predominating silk.
There is new shiny straw cloth
called ''laise de paille," which Is ex-
cellent for draped and blocked shapes.
ard which has tn, merit Of being ex-
tremely light in weight Horsehair.
woven into cloth ard lace. is shown in
afternoon hats, as we'll as a metallic
haircloth in delicate shades OF flaming
red. Again. we find crepe materials
used for big hats In black or In color,
untrimmed except, perhaps. for flower.
twist of colored velvet or an aigrette
set straight UP in front. Az a substitute
fer felt or crepe. large shapes In black
erin are offered. quite plain, depending
on supple curves for their beauty and
trimmed at most with a braided strip Of
cire ribbon about the crown.
The majority OF new models are
neither tiny nor very large. II Is true
there are many small shapes, often
with the effect OF balanced trimming
over the ear. and there are the hats
which have to be classified as large, but
not exaggeratedly so. The Russian in
fluence featured last season by Lanvin Is
seen In many new variations. for her
small shape. turning abruptly off the
face, IL becoming and appropriate for
suits The ''mousquetaire" hat. identical
with that worn by d'Artagnan in "The
Three Musketeers." Is featured by
Evelyn Varon. who works out her mod
ern version in felt, crepe. or Georgette
The latter material in beige Is one Of
the favorite materials OF the moment
tendency to uneven brims Is noted. They
may run into even points at each side. OF
one may be wider than the other they
may be slit or be turned up from the
face. In contrast there Is. however. the
perfectly round shape with the edge Of
the rim rolled slightly upward. The
tricorne's popularity is not over. for Lam
vim uses it in one Of her latest models
made in taupe satin.
Ribbons play a most important part
in the early spring millinery, for not
only are hats trimmed with knots of
them, but In most cases they compose
the entire model Velvet, gros grain,
MORE. moirc faced with satin--in fact,
all materials--are used in ribbon form.
These are sometimes cire and sometimes
In bright colors on black hat. The
ribbon cockade. which has been so popu-
lar. is often replaced by one made Of n
heavy weave of straw combined with
strips or felt. Rows of dyed Valen-
ciennes lace are also made into odd and
charming trimmings. Clipped ostrich
in quills or pompons, or In long, thin
strands. is decidedly popular trimming
emphasized by many houses. The un-
curled feather. and even the glycerined
one IL still used. Hats made entirely
of cock feathers, or OF long. narrow ones
placed side by side to form a rim. or
round and round to form crown, with
perhaps a tuft hanging over one side,
are very new.
A goose feather called 'biot" has
gained widespread favor and Is re-
peatedlv shown In variety OF form
and color.
Entirely black hats are shown. or
black as background for brilliant
note of color. Beige and red are con-
ceded to be the leading shades in the
new spring fashions. Brown and the
new cocoa shade are meeting with
much success. though black and white
ls still seen.
The evening hat has almost disap-
peared from the mode. the jeweled filet
or the fanciful headdrees having taken
it's place. There s an amusing model
OF Poiret's In cloth OF silver with three
great, stuffed rolls OF the silver enclr-
cling the head in n Russian tiara shape.
This is made to be worn with a coat OF
black velvet which has huge sleeves
OF scarlet embroidered I'm gold and
silver
For several seasons there has been no
more charming means OF decoration than
the various tyres OF latticework. nrst
introduced in Paris These may be de-
veloped either In chenille rope or In
rolled bias folds OF the fabric which
makes the costume, or In material OF
contrasting color. The costume
blouse illustrated (6526) has chosen
Canton crepe for a medium. in smoke
gray. with the diamond shaped motifs
developed In henna and lapis lazuli
! folds Of crepe The scalloped lower edge
Is especially noteworthy. Such blouse
n worn with a harmonislng skirt viii
successfully simulate a complete cos
tune
A clever adaptation Of the cape Is
introduced In combination jacket ard
wrap (6515) paneled In the back and
caught into n crushed girdlc. with the
sleeves and the loose front tating the
.1rininal form OF the cane. Another in