The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-10-29
Visits of Eastern Royalty to
Fashion Center Have Pro-
nounced Effect.

- gallery Of living portraits rather
than ut collection of clothes. and this
year II Is even stronger than usual on
account of the interesting derivation
from distant countries and from our
own present past. which can be traced
In SO many Of the models. Paris Is the
Mecca OF ell foreign potentates, and
during the recent season we have had
a. visit from several OF them.
Early last summer tho King OF
Siam and the Emperor OF Anam
came officially. and, at the same time.
the royal Cambodian and Siamese
ballots gave some astonishing per-
formances at the Opera The Shah
OF Persia spent the summer at-Deau-
Vile, as well as the King Of Spain.
and all these formal and informal adj
vents had their influence, more or less
apparent, on that sensitive plant, the
Partisan mode.
No one. perhaps. felt the Indo- Chinese
influence as strongly as Cheruit. and
most interesting Interpretations ana
derivations from II are to be seen IN her
new winter clothes. While these far off
fairy tale lands We're engaging her at
lcuIOIl, sue lidQ pcSh oSifAA6 az '''N
, much more prosaic period of the end of
the last century, from the late seventies
to the 'nineties, q period In which
clothes seemed to reach the very acme
of bad taste and futility, and one
which Is too recent to have been able
, TO take to itself the glamor of the
more distant past. From this unpromis-
iEg material she has drawn models OF
real interest, though Il must be con-
fessed that their origin is often so well
disguised as to be difficult to trace.
Reference to the old fashion maya
zines OF the period. or again to the fam
lily album, will give US another sill
a,ouette, a faint "reminiscences OF which
appears In this collection. During the
eighties and again In the 'nineties we
had gowns which nodded the upper part
OF the body. were long waisted (anc
wasp wasted as WELD. and were draped
about the hips in what was called a
"fishwife" drapery, which was 1nodi-
fled version of the pannier. The skirt
tfen continued long. and plain, spread
ing out on the floor ut the sides and
back.
Cheruit shows an evening gown which
recalls this style, though it Is supple
and modern in line itself. 1t is in yell
low panne velvet. the bodice very long
WASTED and fitting as closely as Is pos
sible, without seams or bones the slen-
der body OF the manikin who wears IT.
We are slender by the grace of self-de-
NAL nowadays, instead OF by the grace
of the corset maker. At the hips this
yellow frock breaks into very odd
drapery, recalling the above mentioned
version OF the pannier but obtained in
this case by the use of a small, curiouSly
placed hoop. distending the yellow ma
terial. which then falls TO the feet,
touching the ground In the back and on
the sides. But these are not the only
silhouettes for evening in this varied
collection.
Persian Influence Seen.
II Is a long way from nineteenth CEN.
fury Paris to the Persia OF Omar, but,
ct Chcruit's we take this Journey with
out noticing it. Another one is like a
verse from THE Persian Garden" in
bright silver lame and silver lace. en-
broidered here and there with seed
pearls and diamonds The line In the
back is particularly Interesting, long,
straight and supple, the lace attached to
| the long bodice on, line which mounts
toward tho 'front.' whore the massed en-
broidery of pearls is placed almost at
the natural waist line. The silver slip
IS narrow and above the ankle in
ia short in the front, showing the feet.
trails In tho back in rounded line.
A real magnificencs is manifested In
these gowns; another IN the series has
Its white velvet front embroidered In
great pear shaped pearl drops and
masses OF silver sht:Sery. while the
back is composed of long bands OF silver
tissue, forming double train. Purple
and silver lame makes another gorgeous
atl re L., ait,l
lace Is embroidered with gold leaves and
placed over gold lame. Stili another is
composed of an o6d lame, rather open In
It's weave. in horizontal stripes OF Diff
ferent colored gold, its long trailing skirt
open up the front over a tight UNDER
skirt, the sides OF the opening being Dor
dercd with leopard skin, while the gown
is belted low on the hips with the came
exotic fur.
An interesting model Is composed OF
the new STRAW ace" which is brill
flexible. This gown Is straight and black
and is girdled with yellow. Over these
Cheruit proposes kat we shall wear the
sumptuous velvet robes OF Venetian
Doge, embroidered with raised figures
IN gold and silver, or . great cape OF
black and silver lame n lotus pattern,
lined with that wonderful imitation of
chinchilla which Is .urn'Sheu py
variety OF the humble rat.
It is in the afternoon gowns that the
other inspiration-that OF the French
colonies in -China--shows itself.
We have satin gowns covered with en-
broidered motifs taken from the Siamesc
robes of state velvet jackets fastening
TO the side like those of the Anamites,
other velvet frocks trimmed with pieces
OF metal sewn on in unexpected pat
terms like the fabulous dancing dresses
Of the Cambodian ballet, Mandarin
coat of taupe colored satin. embroidered
in gold dragons and beited with
tracery made OF pearly shells. We have
colored crepe gowns. often OF Cherult's
favorito green. embroidered in strange
reometrical patterns which are like tho
architectural designs on the far away
temples Of these little known countries.
The top OF black caracul cape Is made
of silver scarlet and blue patchwork.
which makes one think OF - startling
robes OF the actors in a Chinese theater.
4 black dull silk gown will be decorated
with gold tissue motifs In a series OF
great points, such as Please used for
the costumes OF "Tricorne." danced By
the Russian ballet.
Practical Taiiieurs shown.
But, side by side with these wonders
we have taifieurs and coat dresses OF
Gcrfect practicability, often In the brown