Evening star., 1922-12-17
Medieval House Robes in Wake of Fifteenth Century
Artificial Warmth In Home Ceases to Be Use Of Materials Of Sub
san Character Movement Strong Be Limited
Fes Fner But Strikes Robes Taken Up
Women Who Use Goats That Have Dy-Sort
Fur Garments Turned Into Victorian Combing Sacques

artificial warmth was invented by
, man.
The purists seem to believe that
! modesty and personal privacy are
inherent qualities of human nature;
that their absence reduces on to the
lowest human level. But history
does not teach any such doctrine.
Modesty has come about through ap-
piled science. In countries where
| the adoption of mans inventions for
comfort are unknown, the thing we
call modesty does not exist. One
might say that the advent of coal
changed the characteristics Of hui
mans. Present civilization is based
. on artificial warmth.
x X u
As the dressmakers have gone
\ back about five hundred CEN
turies. we must study what
these medieval women wore. They
have reached out a finger from the
past and taken us by the hand. There
is a tremendous impulse toward the
repetition of medieval costumery
throughout the fashionable world.
In beating the air for something
that would stimulate the public into
a new appreciation of clothes, de-
signers turned toward the stretch of
centuries which Immediately pre-
ceded and included the renaissance.
Therefore the mass movement of
costumery is nov away from pre-war
severity toward medieval ornamental
tion, extravaganza, color, warmth.
Those other ladies could not wear
chiffon in winter, nor did they wear
thin crepe kimonos. Influenced by
costumery of these centuries, the de-
signers offer US warm materials, long
sleeves. high collars, fur-trimmed
garments. Even high Roman boots
with fur are peeping over the horizon.
Today we do not restrict velvet, fur,
duvetyn to gala occasions or cold aft
ernoons in fashionable streets. The
medieval movement is too strong to
be limited to festal finery. 1t strikes
deep into the wardrobe and persaades
US to be fashionable and comfortable
in room robes of velvet heaped with
fur. lined with flannel. and decorated
with the various minor peltries that
furriers have launched in lieu OF
precious hides. Entire robes OF fur
have been taken up by French wom-
en-. Sometimes they use coats that
have been taken up by French wom-
admirable trick in economy. The
coat that cannot be seen in public
can be worn in private. if lined with
a gay fabric. then belted or sashed in
brilliant manner.
Short fur coats have been turned
into Victorian combing sacques.
These are a revival of Importance.
Beige caracul, pony skin, squirrel and
moleskin that have seen better days
and must be retired are cut into these
square sacques. The lining is blue.
yellow or green crepe de chine; the
fastener is of some old metallic orna
ment Long fur coats have been
been made into serviceable home
jackets with a colorful lining and a
sash of equal gayety.
The woman who has not such gar
ments of past grandeur at her dis
posal is keeping up with the medieval
movement by making room robes of
velvet. brocade and duvetyn. She is
glad that fashion at last permits her
to combat cold weather WITH kimonos
that keep one comfortable. The ma
iority of us have depended on satin.
Japanese silk, figured cotton and
fowered silk for bathrobes and