The New York herald., 1922-09-17
Paris DEGREES No Radical Changes in
STYLES for Winter Wear Out of Doors
Jackets of All Lengths Popu-
lar With Tailleurs - Three
Silhouettes Shown.
copyr,sht. 1922. By vogue. New York.

the winter collections. The tailleurs
are found with Jackets of all lengths
short, hip length, three-quarters and
long Here and there is a real bolero
length, barely reaching the waist and
falling straight from the shoulders.
The length which just reaches the hip
is perhaps the most general, but 1t has
lost the bloused character it possessed
last year and in most cases has given
UP it's narrow belt. though here and
there the belt does persist. especially
In models which are designed for
country or sports wear. It's lines are
very close and straight this year, and
the break between jacket and skirt is
hardly perceptible, unless fur is used
at the hem of the former.
Variants of this line sometimes show
bit OF fullness in the front. Premet,
for example. has several suit coats which
are quite full in the front and banded
with two rows of fur. while the backs
are straight and plain. We also find
the line which mounts from back 60
front in the collections of Lanvin.
Premet and Germaine. The material of
suit coats is sometimes a little draped
at the waist to fastening at one side.
! Here and there we find basques of fur.
In the three quarter length suit coats
we find several interpretations. includ-
ing the circular cut. hanging from the
shoulders the straight, almost seamless
type and the type with the fitted top
part and flare Of the skirts which are
usually banded with fur. Jenny likes
this latter type, while Lanvin Is showing
series of redingotes on Russian lines.
with a good deal OF godet flare at the
sides, and with small collars and facings
down the front OF fur bands.
When asuit coats are long they entirely
cover the frocks under them. and may
be worn separately as topcoats. The
gcdet flare on the hips is favorite with
many houses for this type of coat. which
this season Is frequently of velvet, over
a crepe and velvet frock Sometimes
these coats are made very. handsome
with rich soutaching. solid embroidery
or the material itself worked in fine
tucks, stitched bands or in some other
way.
Premet has great novelty in the
form of an applique embroidery, made
OF one colored broadcloth cut out and
imposed upon another, covering the
whole Of a coat Many other houses.
including Doeuiiiet, show coats which
are a mass of soutache embroidery.
Everything is trimmed with fur. and
novelty consists in lining tailleur coats
with. fur. Jenny lines a number of her
short. straight paletots with lamb dyed
to match the material. Molyneux COM
pletes his daytime frocks with hip
length or long capes lined with fur and
reversible. Lanvin lines a short black
velvet jacket with white, "agneau rase,
which Is used by almost every one for
trimming this year. The short fur coat
Is often shown to complete a frock,
such furs as caracul, agneau rase, as
trakhan and ragondin being used and
the color Of the frock exactly match
ing the fur.
Leading winter materials for street
wear include many versions of the
velour de laine. for soft finished wool
eEs are favorites. We find the ribbed
woolen materials, on the order of Ro-
diers raillaine. very popular for suits
and coats, while broadcloth. rep. duve-
tyne, tricotine, frizelaine and some OF
the finely striped English cloths are
used for others. Worth Is showing a
good deal of leather with suede fin
ish. For the handsomer taileurs, such
as we used to call visiting SUITS vel
vet and velveteen hold first place. Vel
vet. indeed. Is the leading material Of
the year, as far as the collections are
concerned. for 1t runs straight through
them for evening, afternoon and morn
ing models
Some of the new varieties are charm
ing. the soft ribbed velvets, the spaced
lines of velvet on chiffon wolfe, Bian-
chinis printed velvets, In Persian pat
terms and in fine gold designs which look
exactly like the tooling on old volumes.
and the gaufre velvets crinkied like
ancient Venetian fabrics. For these
handsomer suits and coats we find the
matelasse or cloky materials. the heavy
silk brooches. and the patterned wooden
fabrics, like the velours de Smyrne,
both the plain and the patterned being
combined in the same model as in the
coat dress from Paul Caret. We also
find a heavy shiny satin, frequently
combined with rich fur in the collec-
tons of Worth. Jean Patou and Made
lt.ne ct Madeleine among others. while
the new heavy weaves of silk crepes
are not forgotten.
Everything IS fur trimmed. and an
effort has been made to keep prices
within reasonable limits by using the
less expensive pelts, such as dyed lamb.
Shaved lamb" astrakhan, both gray
and black, and the shaded gray variety
that we used TO call "krlmmer." The
brown furs are most popular. as is to be
expected in a season I'm which the
browns are the leading colors.
Though the majority OF the street
models are so sober and reasonable, a
touch OF the picturesque. which is one
of the characteristics OF the new season.
Is discernible In some OF them. Thus
Rolande. who in principle IL all for
straight. simple, untrimmed lines, shows
a model like Vert Gallant" a coat
dress Of black velvet which Is reminis-
cent OF the Romance period Of Italy, or
"Baladln." model with a suggestion OF
the troubadours about It.
other collections have faint reflections
OF the more romantic times, now In a
sleeve. In the sweeping line OF a robe
d'interieur." In the looping Of low
girdle. More direct Is the influence OF
the time OF Louis Kill. and some
ascribe this directly 70 the success Of
the film version of the three immortal
musketeers Beer revives the deep coll
lar and cuffs made OF rows Of silver or
gold lace, set on white organdie foun-
dation, which recalls the white cotton
used for the surviving examples In the
Cluny Museum.
Lanvin draws heavily upon the Rem
sissance for inspiration for her collec-
ton, outside OF the tailored models.
some of which are still reminiscent Of
brittany peasant dress One huns
Faust to oneself as the afternoon
gowns pass In review. sashed sleeves,
velvet bodices. and all her most char