The New York herald., 1922-03-05

belts there is often a narrow second
belt at the normal waist line, a feature
which might suggest that the waist
line. after all. has not dropped so low
that 1t Is beyond redemption.
Glove Sleeve Prominent.
The glove sleeve attached to a band
to be removed at will is prominent.
1t extends from the wrist to above the
elbow and is as tight fitting as a glove.
1t appears in lace attached to a silv sr
band at the top and tied with ribbons
at the wrist and again in the same
fabric as the dress with a big puff
at the top, and in one instance II is
Of rose satin worn with a green dress.
charming bridal dress is shown in
heavy faille embroidered In tiny pearls
oil bands Of silver cloth. 1t has q full.
long skirt OF the 1850 period with a
court train of real rose point lace of
rare value. This type Of picture dress
with Its full. long swceoing skirt gath
cred onto snugly fitted bodice appears
liz several taffetas of changeable colors.
There also are several dainty orga ndie
diesses with full. long skirts touching
the hoor and worn over satin slips of a
contrasting color. Lace dresses over sill
yer cloth and made on the lines OF the
evening dress worn by Jane Renoua-dt
at the Theater Daunou. which has been
SO extensively admired, figure in the col
lection. There Is one of black lace with
bands and belt of black and crystal
beads and another of almond green tulle
embroidered In fine silver threads with
the low Oriental twisted belt Of rose and
green beads embroidered on buttons
much the same as the Renouardt dress.
The Doeuillet collection gives furtner
evidence tyo az liy,a ha a
50 low that 1t will probably be several
seasons before 1t can recover. The gen.
eral lines remain the same in the models
or this house as they do In the others.
while the novelties lie in the various
forms of trimming. The DoeuiIlet dsy
dresses are still comparatively short, and
while the evening dresses are longer
they are by no means sweeping the
floor. so the alarms on the subject of all
skirts being uncomfor.ably long is ap-
parently unwarranted. The dressmakers
who can be called the real dictators of
the fashion have shown, SO far, COM
paratively short skirts for aay wear. In
some cases the length of the evening
gowns has been increased. but tho ma
1orfty has decided upon ankle length
even for that type of dress.
Jackets. OF Hip Length.
The Doeuillet tailIeurs have skirts that
are plain. straight and short, with little
Jackets of hip length and bclted at n
low waist line. He shows many simple
little serge dresses. the majority of
which are navy blue with dashes of red.
The most attractive of this sorr 10 blue
trimmed in red braid with tho top of
the garment made bolero in effect over
a red crepe blouse. Rodier's new serge
with raised stripe figures In the col
lection for sports costumes. A white
dress of this sort, with a band OF stripes
in relief on the serge, is worn with a
yellow Jumper jacket, which buttons
snugly around the hips. Striped ard
checked fabrics are to be noted In the
coats.
The afternoon frocks and dresses for
the races are almost entirely OF crepes
and laces. with an occasional variation
in pleasing little foulard. This type OF
dress is made to look very flat In back
and front, with loose panels, either
draped in loops or straight. attached to
the belt over the hips. All of them have
a soft and fluffy appearance. TUNES o.
mousseline de sole embroidered N bright
colors and worn over black are promi-
nent In the collection. There is one OF
brick red embroidered In bright blue, ar
other Is pleated red crepe georgettc. ard
another Is bright green elaborately en-
broidered. Colored iaces and printed
crepes are featured.
1t might be said that the only change
In the styles is the manner In which
some of the dressmakers are having
their first displays. Jean Patou. lor ir-
stance. opened his show last week with a
dinner at the Cafe de Paris. when his
ana NJ I'm rtff
included some OF the American buyers,
many of the Paris fabric makers, mem
bers OF tho press and NJ. Patou's asso-
ciates in his firm. After dinner the en-
tire party proceeded to the Patou dress
making establishment to see thc first
march of the manncquins, and the social
side OF the display continued with a
buffet supper. and the wee hours Of the
morning arrived before the party decided
10 forget the dresses long enough to get
n wink OF sleep. With such an opening
the Patou collection is bound to be II
success. Sports costumes with all sorts
OF new little touches and wearablc navy
blue serge dresses are prominent fen
lures of tile collection. The long waist
line and boat shaped neck and loose
sleeves make tho models appear 10 be
much the same In general lines as those
novelties IN trimmings and fabrics that
one forgets that the lines remain un-
changed. Laces or every description are
extensively used.
Bead Embroidery Used.
There Is a charming frock Of black
lace over the new rose beige crepe
xeorgette, and another OF the same typ,
over white crepe and still another ovei
green. All OF the dressy type OF models
are very soft in tfieir effect with dra-
perry hanging loose from the skirt ir
points and loops on the sides. Suci
dresses extend well TO the ankles. Pail
iette and bead embroidery is attrac
lively used but not overdone. Beaded
belts and beaded motifs trim many oi
the models. replacing the metal orna
mcntation OF last season.
Organdlc frocks over black taffeta'