The New York herald., 1922-01-08


the forehead. the forehead shows. the
contour Is unbroken. Here and there
IN ultra smart woman wears soft curls
over the ears or at the nape of the neck,
Maybe they are artificial, but they look
natural
"And the bobbed hair? Surely you
don't accept that Montmartre style In
smart society? But you do. For ! see
II everywhere on women who have long
since forgotten their school days. And
those punches of matted hair over the
ears. Where did that style originate
and when did it come into. fashion?
Are those punches ofSthick hair padded
with crinoline or false hair? Is it sani-
tary? Is the brush forgotten over here?"
Against Permanent Wave.
"And the permanent wave?" she was
asked. surely that Is done in France?
"I do not know smart woman who
has a permanent wave in her hair. Any
coiffeur who put sharply defined
Marcel wave In the hair would lose busi-
ness. Nothing must interfere with the
glossy sweep of the hair backward from
the forehead. No bulge, knot or puffs
break the sweep. The natural contour
of the head must show. There is a
slight ridge permitted where the long
hair meets at the crown of the head and
is tucked into place with long comb ;
there are small curls in front OF the
ears, and sometimes the daring young
sters curl the ends of their hair and
wear it pulled forward after the fashion
Of the Directoire. But II Is all so softly
arranged without hair net. with such
gloss and suppleness as II IL had a
hundred strokes OF the brush every day.
And plenty of brilliantine. The hair
over here looks as though 1t had never
been let down. that the women put 1t
up into the hard coiffure OF the Japa-
nese and slept on wooden pillows In Or
der not to disturb it,
but the ears do not show in Paris,
said q woman who was listening.
mo, that is true" was the answer,
"but there are no matted and padded
punches of hair standing out Like mas
told dressings. The ears are covered by
curling tendriIs of hair flattened against
the temples and often extending to the
cheekbone after the masculine fashion
of 1870. and there is q forward sweep OF
all the hair In order to hide the ears,
but it is also flat Nothing stands out
on the head, and every particle OF 1t
shines like the well groomed coat OF
horse. Only the daring youngsters hide
the forehead"
"What if a woman has q high fore
head ?" was the next question. but before
she could answer another woman SAID
"There are no high foreheads in Franco" !"
IT imagine that is true" said the
Franco-American 1.-THE women OF south
ern Europe have low foreheads and the
problem of covering the high bare eX-
panse of forehead with which northern
women in Europe and America have to
contend Is not acute. but / know they
would cover 1t softly in Paris. Ihey
would use art to make 1t appear thai
the hair grew low and then pull II
back. They would prefer to use a per-
feet transformation rather than friz2
| the hair or give It a heavy look across
the eyes"
..By the way" interrupted a man In
the opera box where this animated ais-
cussion was proceeding. this Is really
a performance of 'Tosca, not halr-
dressing parlor, and Jeritza happens to
be singing"
"Oh. dear" sighed all the women, and
turned petulantly to the stage.
| The New Headdresses Amusing.
wbether or not Americans will re-
lease their hair from captivity and
|
heads in a grotesque manner, they are
ant to accept the various amusing and
amazing things offered to put on the
hair. The girl who has her hair bobbed
| then fr.izzed, looks her worst with gar
lands of green and gold metallic leaves
trailing vines of roses, high points OF
Russian tiaras, sweeping fiues or feath'
ers fiaring out from band OF tissue oi
a bandeau Of fine jewels. She must DC
simple or she Is lost. Only those WITT
sufficient hair on their heads TO give .
genuine coiffure can AFFORD 10 accep'
these conspicuous fantasies for the hair
Every one tries to be original and, there
fore many curious and ugly things are
done. but there are enough good fashions
| TO suit all types, although the bandeau
of lotus flowers once worn by Cleopatra
Is for the rare type.
The Spanish comb Is sold and worr
more in America than In Paris, wnere
even the Spanish shawl has given place
20 a short ermne cape fringed with
chenille or edged with deep lace
dounce. These wraps for the dinner
table, the theater box. the restaurant
supper, even for dancing. were oneree
last August by Poiret and Vionnet, tn'
former making them OF unlocked ermin'
and black thread lace. the latter OF b'acl
lace threaded with gold mounted OF
black fur: after these others appeared
of ehinchilla and lace.
wrap for Decorative Purposes.
The French women like wrap abou
the shoulders for decorative purposes
and because their rooms are not Away
well heated. The American Is not 81
tolerant of them, but she finds something
of the kind useful. especially when IL Il
light and easily carried. Instead OF
fur scarf. which she usually needs 70
the shoulders in drafty places, sh
adopts this cape of fur edged with lac