The New York herald., 1922-04-16

shoulder severity. Over here In Amer
lea the younger set is making run
on white collars They are of organ@y.
butchers linen, with hand crochetted
linen lace as a finish, they are high and
rolling, with an immense cravat in the
French fashion passed under the hem.
Butchers linen, coarse and not always
white, is attached to the blouse worn
beneath coat suits and sweaters. 1t Is
preferred to muslin. The reason behind
the choice is the turning back of the
moderns to hand woven fabrics. The
Northumberland wools. for instance, are
the beloved weaves of the moment. and
they have been patiently hand woven
and dipped In washable dyes through
out the centuries by those north of Eng
land people who sought protection
against the winds that blew over the
moors. What a peasant snugly wound
about her head and shoulders when she
walked in the open on her many ac-
tivities is now worn as skirt by the
fiapper who drives her own car to the
country club.
So it is with all the hand woven ma
terials. Just as homespun became cost
ly and desirable thing during the war
because luxury was taboo in Europe
and life became utterly primitive. 50 the
modern mind goes on desiring and ac-
cepting these primitive products. They
are the fashions OF the season.
The rough linen, coarsely woven, un-
even in its flow of threads, is turned
into the blouse and the smart frock
1t makes the collars that rise above the
dark necklne Of suits and gowns. It
is not hemstitched. 1t is finished with
the narrow pointed lace that women
crochet now in their lamp lit rooms
after the coffee is served.
The bonnet laces OF France, so be-
loved by generations OF peasant needle
workers. are done by American women:
some buy point lace IL they, wish
but prefer this hand made product. The
soldiers brought home bits of these bon
net laces to give to their mothers 1t
was from this sentimental source that
the fashion spread among the idle and
luxurious classes In this country.
The young girl INDUCES in white
neckwear more than the older woman
as the spring breaks. But looking on
at the arrogance of youth leading fash
ion for the last few years one comes
to the conclusion that 1t will lead middle
age back to the white neckline.
It Is interesting that Paul Poiret,
chief of the Orientalists, has made for
America a rough white linen frock
stitched in flag red and trimmed with
organdie ruffles. 1t is Poiret also who
has given the young girl a plaything
for her play hours in the form OF a
golden brown leather jacket, heavily
fringed. 1t is quite good looking. He
calls 1t Mexico"
Does Youth Insist ON Whftef
AS there is no diminution in the pop
ularity of the young 1t Is important
that we should watch what they wear
and what the designers do for them.
They hold the limelight on the stage of
life, In literature. In pleasure pastimes,
in art. and II Is quite natural that they
should hold it in fashions. They lead.
The rest may stumble on.
Undoubtedly, 1t is with youth In mind
that France and America undertook
to launch white this season. The French
collections gave impetus to the move
ment.
True, there are certain sectors OF
American life that regard white as the
bread of the wardrobe. They would be
Estonished II told that white shuttled in
and out of the fashion. They use II
whenever the sun Is hot. Not so with
those who go according to the dictates OF
designers. But let It be said to the
American continent at large that now,
to-day. white Is in fashion
Any fabric may be used to carry out
she color. Linen organdie crepe satin,
of which Nine. Paqun makes a most
distinguished frock this season several
weaves of crepe. running from Chinese
to Roman, pongee. cameis' hair, broad
cloth. kasha cloth and cotton net are
offered for the taking.
No designer feels that it ~ necessary
to put black against White this season.
IL is done and done well, but II is not
obligatory. Premet, Re1ee. Beer and
heir followers have sent several white
beaded gowns 70 this country through
our buyers which have Ielit the flame
of desire for beaded and jeweled gowns.
Yet plain white, such as the Pauuin
frock. is high in style. Poiret and Patou
like to put flag red with white. ana
clever souls put Egyptian green against
it. It makes an admirable combination.
IT is like seeing green trees against q
snow covered ground.
Not white for sports.
Curiously. white Is used for ceremony
more than for open air activities. It Is
not offered for the rainbow mixtures OF
sport clothes. These taxa on every color
achieved by the dye pot. White e for
the afternoon frock, for the dinner
gown. for the dance.
Let no one think that the way is easy
when white is accepted Tor the bulk OF
the wardrobe. The majority OF women
wear all black better than all white.
Even youth does not always know
enough about cosmetics 10 carry Off
dead white costume. And here IL a
prophecy IL white ta,Scs the place OF
black the makeup of the face will
change. Rouge will go on checks. Palior
will be disguised Who krows but what
a healthy skin may some back into
fashion?
II may not b. possible to say Of
f1apper what another one said at
einner party:
MY What lot OF paint tina. girl
across the tabls uses" said a. young
man to his pale partner on his left.
"Paintw said the pale fiapper with
gesture OF disgust. "Y"' don't think
che would put Il on that badly, d1 your
The white has rubbed off," II