Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1922-06-23

Use of Greek Drspery.
styles. However, the cleverness of
this new Drectoire note is its faint
suggestion and the actual creation of
distinctly modern things around this
basicly classic idea.
AS everybody knows, the Directoire
was development from the Greek
an effort, as it were, to adapt the sim
plicity and art of early Greek dress
to the uses Of the ADVENTUROUS in
triguing spirit and manners of the
turbulent DirectOire Thus what in its
natural Greek environment was mod
est, simple and pure became fagrant
ly brazen, elaborate and vulgar. The
artificiaIity of French life at that
period transformed freedom into Ii
cense, purity into grossness and art
into sensuality.
skirt Draped, Low WaistIine Remains.
1t is a matter of history that during
the French Directorate women who
adopted these so-called Greek fashions
creased their bodies in order that
their transparent and clinging drap
cries should reveal more clearly theil
physical charms 1t is claimed, too
that during this period a mans sue
cess was only limited by his ambition
and a woman's by her beauty. Thus
there was no limit in audacious dress.
Happily, today the Directoire motif is
somewhat tempered by a sense OF pro,
priety.
The direct Greek is strong also in
the new collections, and mary of the
most attractive afternoon and evening
dresses are Greek in spirit. All
through the past winter there has been
a tendency toward the draped eve
ming dress. In their effort to find
something distinctly new and interest
ing the Paris dpessmakers have now
verged toward the Directoire; that is,
the Directoire evidenced in the skirt
drapery, but not yet defined in the
bodice.
1t has been an easy step from the
Grecian styles of the winter to merge
into the Directoire, because it was the
Greek that inspired the Directoire
during the early triumphs of Napoleon.
before he became so ambitious as to
create an empire.
The Direcroire has not been in vogue
since 1908, and it is curious to relate
that it was displaced by the Moyen
Age or low waistline in 1909. Since
that time all the fashions have re-
volved around the low waistline and
the natural uncorseted figure.
Worth, who eXcels in evening
dresses. is notably working on the
Directoire lines. He has made num-
berless day and evening dresses very
suggestive of that period. 1t is in
teresting to note, however, that the
draperies are treated in an entirely
original way, owing to the fact that
they are now at the right side and
not the left, as Gin the original period.
The low waistline is practically al
ways retained.
Features Black With Vivid Colors.
Among the Worth evening dresses
there is hardly a failure. but an en-
barrassment of riches. One might
with closed eyes choose from the many
is showing many beaded evening
dresses, using square. oblong and
round crystal beads in jet and in color,
also many large cabuchons in high
oolorc T'1,'.,o.'t,,r,, "',' 'ot motifs and
Jewel studded embroideries are shown
on evening dresses.
Worth's sensational novelty = the
Directoire gown combined with the
low waistline-is developed in black
satin and turquoise blue net elabor-
ately embroidered in turquoise beads
and crystals. Nothing more lovely
can be imagined than this combination
of black and blue. The dark-haired
woman who wore this created a yeri-
table sensation, particularly as she
wore priceless white and gray pearls
as earrings and In the form Of an up
ner< arm bracelet with pendant ends.