The Washington times., 1922-09-03

cade de smyrne, which is a serge
in one color, with a raised design
made of small massed loops or
curls, called in French "bou-
clettes," in another color, or in a
darker shade of the same color.
Color combinations in this ma
terial include two shades of gray,
white on black. black on white.
gray on dark red, and gray on
king's-blue.
Another member of the smyrne
family is called smyrne givre. and
has a frosted appearance due to
the addition of a small number Of
silk threads.
The other popular smyrne fab
fic is the beautiful fantome. which
has an uncut surface Of black with
Q Scotch plaid, in lines Of white
and red, or white and yellow. visi-
BILE on the wrong side, but merely
suggested on the right side. and
then only when the fabric Is In
motion.
I ESS formal and elaborate are
the new woolens, which have an
exceptionally high luster. making
them suitable for the drapery
found in the street frocks. They
are cashmeres, called kitten's-ear
cloth and bohkara. Kitten's-ear
broadcloth Is camel's hair cloth Of
high luster with almost a crepe
surface.
And then there are the velvety
woolens. Duvetyn Is still in high
favor, and several new fabrics
have entered their names in the
same list. These have an exquis-
ite bloom, yet are light and work.
able, a quality in demand in ac-
cordance with the styles Of the
day. Heliosa is a new silk-and-
cashmere fabric suggestive OF
duvetyn. 1t has all the velvety
softness of that material and is
perhaps a little lighter in texture.
The most pleasing characteristic
Of heliosa is that 1t doesn't wrin-
kle, and so lends itself to the
manufacturers Of dresses and
wraps. Hera and marleen be.
long to the same class, but do not
POSSESS the non.wrinkling quality.
Reminiscent Of broadcloth. light
and soft as cashmere, but with n
firmness which makes 1t popular
for street frocks, is Juiana. 1t is
q question to decide as to the exact
description Of Juiana. Is It cash
mere finished duvetyn or is it duve-
unfinished cashmere?
70
NEVER was there such a sea-
son for furs, and in keeping
with the popularity are the WOOL
ems in imita ton of fur and serving
as substitutes for fur. Conspic.
uous among these is Karzan Broad
tail. 1t comes in all the fur colors
and in two purples. Kerami Is a
heavier fur material and so is used
exclusively for trimmings.
CnallIne Introduces the kasha
group. 1t is distinctly new in tn 1t
It combines firmness and softness.
and is heavy enough for street
wear, thus making 1t ideal for suits
and wraps. The first duty Of
woolen materials Is to protect from
the cold. but this year they have
added to their duties and have be.
come as lovely as they are service
able. In addition to challaine, this
list of interesting woolens includes
Preciosa, which has a deep, lus-
trous velvety pile; Marcova, that
resembles II but is heavier: Palo-
ma, Fashona and Marcova belong
TO the same division of fabrics.
Marvela. Gerova and Panvelains
are old friends from last year, as
are veldyne and Duvet de I.aine.
that are used for suits and wraps
this season, with the same success
as last. .
The colors Of the wooden fabrics
are in tune with autumn. Among
the fashionable browns. are those
with a bronze cast with names as
Malay. Tunisian, Koran and Zanzi.
bar, which explains itself. Grey
refuses TO play a second fiddle in
i the concert Of colors and 80 comes
on parade lovelier than ever.