The New York herald., 1922-04-16

reaches to the hips and Is suitable for
lunch or the matinee.
She drops the skirt in the salon. al
ways getting that gasp OF surprise
which she awaits. and stands revealed
in skirt that matches the blouse and
makes her ready for an afternoon dance,
for the theater. for a dinner at a res
taurant.
The way in which the American de-
signers have initiated this trick Is to
bring out mannequin snugly encased In
Geld weather clothes for the street.
There is a short cape of the Sir Walter
Raleigh time, a straight double breasted
Jacket, belted and finished with army
pockets. which also smack OF early Viz
ginia and the Indian fighters and to-
bacco growers. There Is an apron skirt,
cut circular. and buttoned over the hip.
Beneath this garment is a pair of loose
boomers. fitted to the hips. also sup
piled with pockets. You can see the
acrobatic performance of the mannequin
in your minds eye. This performance
brings back a quick glimpse Of circus
days when the acrobat walking the wire
threw off all the clothes and appeared In
tights. One has childish expectation
of these tights, and a kind OF happy
giggle drops into the silence of the gray
salon. The one who giggles remembers
the glory of the white trunks and the
spangled loin cloth. the pink lemonade
and the bag of peanuts.
After all Is said and done. there Is
not vast gulf fixed between the diff
ferent kinds Of c.rcuses mat life affords
is parade OF rnannequins In cere-
monial dressmaling house often needs
lust the ice cream cones TO put II in line
with the sawdust and tie ring masters
whip.
Using n Gfrdle for Collar.
BY this time the world Is somewhat
familiar with the large 'ciokery OF dlvid-
ing a costume into more parts than
Gaul. Every country cub knows the
skirt that can be checked in the locker,
the cape that can be left in the car. the
Jacket that can be discarded for the silk
MILDLY blouse. AS nation Of sports
women we are more apt to quickly adopt
French ideas for sport c,othes thar for
ceremonial ones. Positively the French
did not invent this box OF tricks which
the tailors call sports costume. But
they invented the idea OF wearing two
or three costumes in one.
What Is interesting this spring II the
use OF certain accessories out of place.
To wrap your girdle around your neck
In a funny thing to do. Yet II is done.
A Russian designer. Lady Edgerton. who
goes under the trade name OF Paul Caret
in Paris. has taken the padded Oriental
belt, which Lanvin lifted from ancient
folk lore and made fashionable last Au-
gust, and turned 1t into collar. She
has done this on black crepe coat
with blistered surface which they
call "clouue." The whole coat Is lined
with Natter blue crepe gcorgette, the
same fabric which makes the gown worn
under the wrap. The coat In Itself Is
novel and has attracted much attention
from women who search for the un-
usual. but the Oriental collar Is the
really brilliant touch.
Lanvin uses II for belt. Lewis uses
it for turban. IL one should carry
economy to It's furthest limits this
paddod roll of two fabrics could be
dropped from the turban to the neck
whenever woman chose to change II.
If made elastic II could also be used
for hip girdle.
Evidently our young peVple are saying
in effect: let France doNes she plcases
about the needing we \wear white
collars"
The French sc(yns conhnus their