Evening star., 1922-07-16

fashion, 1t ceased to be a comfort
able blue gown to be put on with ~
little ceremony as a wrapper. When
women found that foulard in its new
brilliant coloring had been made fit
for formal frock it. was turned into
one.
Despite this Improvement. how
ever. other fabrics led women away
from foulard last, summer. Their
heads were full of crepe de chine.
The designers. however. made de-
termined efforts to reinstate it in the
front ranks OF fashion; they began a
campaign in March which succeeded.
! White foulard with blue or red
design on 1t started the season, but
such a design was for the young. 1t
consisted of a series of broken circles,
somewhat like Russian stage decora-
tions. sIt was really bit worse than
polka dots on q woman who was no
longer thin.
This objection was found to 1t in
the beginning Of the season on this
score, but when Russian costumery
| was accepted and the world went
quite mad over crude colorations the
new foulards seemed tame. So they
were accepted without reserve. prob
ably with gratitude.
One of the smart gowns OF this
fabric which have the merit of being
| unusual. but the demerit of not being
suitable to the majority, is in blue
and white with a full skirt and long
bodice with wide separate sleeves Of
plain blue crepe de chine. The neck
is finished with shallow yoke OF
this, below which is a deep pleating
Of. white organdie.
THIS suggestions Of yoke 10 the
VI French improvement upon the
unadorned oblong neckline. 1t is In
corporated in American clothes In
various ways. 1t is likable. for 1t
gives a neat line to. the top OF the
bodice.
There, Is no reason for any woman
| to wrinkle her brows with anxiety
as to what fabric she will get for
this long spell Of summer days II she
cares for crepe de chine. The ex-
traordinary tenacity Of this material
goes beyond the record Of other fab
RIGS since the middle ages. That. of
course, IL q. sweeping statement, but
many experts proclaim it and think
| il is true. The weave has changed
and various names define the expert
| ments of various designers, but the
( foundation remains the same. 1t is
all crepe in the Chinese manner.
Whatever is rough on the surface
| is more fashionable than what is
| smooth, excepting alpaca. Even satin
is crinkled and velvet is broeaded.
and II crepe does not 60 into the va
rious intricate designs that clever
| manufacturers have put upon it, 1T is
| slightly corded or raised in irregular
blisters like fresh paint that has been
out in the sun.
These bhstered fabrics are already
onsidered commonplace by the ex-
clusives. France. followed by GER
tain sets in America, has been in
revolt for a month against certain
popular features in fashion. such as
Russian embroidery. bright colors,
gingerbread work, strap slippers and
red hats. Included in this list are the
crepes and satins with crinkled and
patterned surfaces. This revolt may
give smooth fabrics a chance to be
reinstated, and it has induced women
to consider plain smooth Canton crepe
as smart as any new and popular
weave.
Whatever a woman likes in crepe,
| that she can choose. 1t may be that
! eeorsette is not as smart as it was,
for chiffon has taken its place, but
there Is enough of it worn to prove
that well dressed women continue to
like it,. The slightly corded crepe has
| a strong following. Dressmakers like
IT for they can handle it easily.
The novelty outside of the wafer
and-wafle raised design Is q crepe
printed in colors, somewhat after
calico designs. This did not wait long
for popularity. The public liked 1t
because It swung away from solid
colors. The design Is small, and 1t
| is quite correct to put a brilliant
group of fruit or flowers against the
dark background.
PRINTED chiffon is also smart. 1T
was launched in April in Paris,
not at the races or public places. but
nv smart women in their own social