The New York herald., 1922-07-16
SHORT COATS LATEST PARIS VOGUE
Color Is Persistent and Forces
It's Notice in Many
Ways.

One OF ltS IdNOrlle ucNiSSS ~ " sSHAFN
her with the little short coats of ma
terial differing from that Of the skirts,
which are the strongest fashion note
in Paris at the present time and which
are the logical outcome of the short
fur coat which triumphed in the win
ter mode. Many materials are USED
for them, materials as widely different
as leather and chiffon; but perhaps
the favorite fabrics of the moment
are the blistered materials or their
kin-the cloquellas and baragladines
of Rodier, and the satins gaufres,
which go by the name of satins
glaciers and satin persan, of Bianchini.
1t Is said that these blistered and fiuted
materials will continue to be among
the most successful in the autumn
mode.
These short coats may be of three
types, but they are all about the same
length. They are easily fitted to the
waist, with a little spring at the hips,
or they are of the straight, belted type
A third variety is the little paletot
which falls from the shoulders. either
straight or with some fullness-but this
is well in the minority.
Premet makes a short jacket of black
chiffon entirely covered with embroidery
done in a silk lacet, shading from gray
on the shoulders to black at the hips.
This model is belted with braided black
grosgrain ribbons at a point just below
the normal waist line-only one OF the
many indications that the barometer OF
the waist line Is once more on the up
ward trend; we meet with new examples
OF this tendency every day. Braiding,
soutache and embroidery with the flat
silk string, called in French facet" are
favorite ways Of introducing color in
these short Jackets. but the shade
chosen is very apt to be nothing more
intense than beige or gray. The wool
tapestries and very discreet wool
(. brooches are sometimes used for these
little models. black and silver or Irish
green and black being typical combina-
tions. Here and there we find red
embroidery on blue. but red in general
has been too popular to be smart any
lcnger.
Bianchinis satin glacier in gray is
used for a straight model, braided with
woven strips of gray leather; the collar
Is made of one of the stuffed rolls of
the material. which are borrowed from
the edges of the Japanese kimono and
which appear on many models--on
short Jackets, long coats and capes.
Cashmere materials In their rich color
Ing are also chosen for these Jackets.
and they are frequently fringed with
monkey fur, which retains all its prs
vious popularity and has achieved per-
haps littIs more.
In his February collection Worth
nl,- l,,tt ..-.+l -
black sueus and skirt of black kasha,
an attracti:e model which is quite often
seen at tie races. Lelong also uses
leather for these coats. especially a
blistered variety which he calls peau
cloky. THIS we have a range of ma
terials, including woollen fabrics. all
the various crepes, satin. the blistered
and gaufre silks, chiffon. and even
leather. Velvet is about the only ma
terial which has not so far been used
for coat of this type.
Worn with these coats is usually
found skirt OF crepe marocaln or OF
crepe satin or of f~the plain material,
such as serge or kasha, il the coat is
embroidered. These skirts are short
rsther than long. usually well above the
ankle. for the best taste rescrves> the
ankle length for more formal wear. 1t
IS true. however. that the woman who
tAd6S luf SNoIlucSS Ol tltI SAlT tS
during the reign of abbreviated petit
coats is now engaged in exaggerating
their length. If these skirts are of one
OF the silk crepes they are apt to have
a cluster of pleats at the sides. and they
are frequently hemstitched very OBJ
viously at the hem.
Grey charmeuse satin is the soft and
becoming fabric of which this graceful
-. l. IL L..
4 large puffed collar, one of the new
notes Of the season, forms becoming
frame for the face. Side panels. which
turn under at the bottom, are finished
with shirred heading of the material
itself
Figured crepe de Chine must be care
fully treated when it has a large. bold
design. as in this model (top right
with Its deep V neck-line finished with
white moire bow. The long. tight
sleeves have a pleated fril of white
chiffon, which Is repeated In the tabot.
A white ermine pompon trims the
black straw hat.
Even children's fashions are influ-
enced by the tremendous vogue for the
brilliant and exotic embroideries of the
Russian and Balkan peasants. These
are particularly effective upon a white
frock or smock; crepe de Chine, voile.
and eponge are among the favored me-
diums. An interesting model not only
exploits the peasant embroideries. but
plainly shows the inspiration OF the
typical peasant costume In shallow,
gathered neckband, long. full sleeves
and short. straight trousers,
Organdie Is probably the most de-
lightful of the seasons materials, par
ticularly charming in youthful after
noon costumes. Cowslip yellow, un-
trimmed except for self frillings along
the graceful collar. sleeve ruffles. and
deep scallops OF the skirt. Is the re-
freshing tint chosen by the model (No.
6663) illustrated above. The mode has
also expressed a decided preference for
wide hats OF organdie to match the
frock for the country club tea hour.
A charming example of the little odd
cape. which rivals the short coat OF
different material from the frocl. is OF
heavy satin. cut quite circular and
bound on the edges. and on the slit I'm
the left side with narrow. matching.
cire ribbon (bottom figure). A flower
made OF this ribbon catches the fasten-
ing on the right side.