The New York herald., 1922-06-11

too conventional for our developed
tastes.
We like the new jackets and skirts
and We want to wear them. We like
their crinkled fabrics. their short youth
full Jackets. So we buy them.
The next step is to get sufficient
blouses to give the suit variety. Every
woman does not believe in a variety OF
designs and colors in the blouses that
are to go with her suit. She wants many
for the sake of cleanliness and different
fabrics for the sake of amusement. But
IL she likes white or beige, stripes or
polka dots, she Is apt to make up four
or a half dozen blouses in the one color
and design. She changes the fabric in
each.
This Is a new movement In dress that
began in Paris two years ago when
simpe crepe de chine frocks were made
the success of the year by Vionnet. the
dressmaker who will not sell to the
American trade and whose gowns can be
bought In most American shops.
Not every woman wears blouse
under her jacket. You may think she
does. She may want it to appear tha.
she does. But If she were suddenly com.
PEELED to take off her coat, you would
find her with bare arms. She has on
wastcoat.
This is comfortable way to dress.
providing the waistcoat has a back to
it, and sufficient sleeves to hold shields.
No coat Is so costly or so self-respsct-
ing as to avoid the chance Of retaining
unpleasant moisture.
Russia has influenced many of these
waistcoats. BY Russia one means the
whole Slavic movement in costumery;
movement which should be carefully
considered before indulging in it with
too much enthusiasm.
America should do as France has
done-eliminate or repress crudity of
coloration. This will come with time.
The Slavic costumery offers so much
that is enhancing. There is no reason
to think of 1t as just one thing in
one pattern. The designers are study
ing Ii out. After while we will
wear clothes that have been copied from
the time of Peter the Great and not
know we are doing it. They will be SO
different.
Whatever is respondent in waist
coat belongs to the French nation. 1t
was their waistcoats that Peter the
Great introduced into the Court of st.
Petersburg The Boyars were indignant
over the change, as they did not want
20 wear French costumery. The waist
coat had its inflence, however. through
out the country, and many of the Rus
sian garments show the brilliant front
panel on coarse unbleached muslin or
colored cotton foundations.
The waistcoat as We will wear 1t this
summer is not a reminder of the French
court 1t reminds one of the crude Rus
sian work. From that source comes the
present waistcoat. 1t Is not shapely.
1t is merely a panel belted from the
back. If II Is shaped into the figure
and fastened double breasted, 1t does
not go with the scheme Of things.
1t can be made at home of unbleached
muslin, which has come into high fash
ion through the Slavic source. The
cross stitch Is as simple as sampler.
Coarse linen is substituted. Crepe de
chine, with ribbon design. Is effec-
tive.
It did not need Pearl White to start
revue in Paris to introduce ribbons.
The magnificent costumery for her III
fated performance. prevented by fire.
was a glorious advertisement OF ribbon
in all shades and textures. We have
known the availability of ribbon work
for years. We are beginning to exhibit
what we know.
The woman who runs small designs OF
half inch or inch ribbon on crepe sur
faces can make herself waistcoat.
blouse or an entire frock before she
finishes with the idea. For the idea Is
good. 1t is something that has come
out of the eighteenth century to stim-
ulate our fancy work
blouse That Goes Under the Cont.
There are women who take off the
coat when they come under a roof, no
matter whether the house is their own
or a public restaurant. They do moi
Ike the feeling of a jacket when they
are not In the street. Such women &C.
cept the over blouse, but they must be
careful III choosing Ii ir a length tina.
Goes not interfere with the short Jacket
The French tried out the ornamental
blouse that came below the coat to
form. tight hip band, which was
plainly discernibe below the flare Of
the coat The idea did not catch on t..
this country. Women did not like 4
So to-day the blouse is made as long
as the jacket If 1t is TO be worn over
the skirt. but no longer.
The Kind that tucks under the skirt
is worn by slim young things or by
women who retain their jackets as an
essential part OF the costume. Such re-
vealment of the middle aged waistline
is not very good
There is still an insistencc. and a wise
enc, on the long tunc blouse that has
enough formality about Il to turn a skirt
into costume. These are built with
wide three-quarter sleeves loose string
girdle and deep band at the hem. The
new ones have the neck that is omen
well down the front, finished with
rolling collar.
The long blouses are divided into two
classes There Is the ornate one, which
Is not beaded as blouses were last sea-
son, but Is braided or has insets OF lace.
There is the sport one. which has no
trimming except binding in color that
Is sharp contrast
Crepe de chine. heavy satin. knitted
wool fabric and thin wool Jersey are
the fabrics chosen for the sport blouses
and crepe georgette. ribbed silk crepe
dc chine and heavy linen or cotton lace
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