Evening journal., 1922-09-14
STIFF CUFF
SHIRTS BACK
Dress Reform Brings Open
Faced Vests Likewise
Next Winter
BIG TIE TO GO
WITH THE T

lis a painful duty TO expose a far
reaching conspiracy against Ameri-
can manhood. At the same time It's
a stern satisfaction 10 bring Ameri-
can manhood face to face with the
menacing facts. 10 bid them awake.
show the mettle Of their sires, spurn
the tyrant's chain and all that sort
of thing. Like most consplracies.
this one aims to undermine the free
dom OF it's makers.
It's field OF action is sartorial. II
seeks to deprive the American male
OF his hard-won sloppiness. In a
word It aims to crib. cabin. coffin
and conhne him once more in the
trammels OF a "natty dresser"
The reformers have laid their
plans no~iselessly and with great
skill. Pussyfoot Johnson never did a
slicker bit Of work than these self
appointed missionaries have already
done in their campaign 10 make the
American look as IL he had just
stepped out of a bandbox. They
fondly hope 20 have him back in
board shirt fronts. stiffiy ~hand-saw-
ing cuffs, wing collars, chest-protect-
ing ties and near-pear scarf pins
before he knows what struck him.
II the missionaries could have
their way the sport suit. the soft
collar, the negligee shirt, the knitted
tie and the tweed hat would be
chucked into the discard. In a word.
man would be deprived OF all the
sartorial freedom that the automo-
bile began 10 bring him 20 years
ago and has been busily bringing
him ever since.
But. fortunately. Il is impossible
70 abolish all manly comfort at one
fell swoop. inc so the sartorial re-
formers are adopting the German
policy OF peaceful penetration"
There will be an abundance OF sport
suits TO paw yer and try on when
the stores at the first touch OF cool
weather unpack the new fall and
winter styles" designed a year
ago.. The sport suits will be there
because the public demands 'em.
must have 'em, insists on having
'em.
Also soft shirts and collars. knit
ted ties and tweed hats will be there
for the same cogent reasons. But
there will be other things. not so OBJ
vious, to reveal the pussyfoot tactics
Of the dress reformers. Adroit and
silver tongued statesmen will try TO
enlist your interest in the "dressy"
effect Of stiff-bosomed shirts, and
may suddenly realize that the
waistcoat Of your new suit is OF the
type known as an f'open-faced vest"
exposing an embarrassing expanse
shirt front.
Is the salesman right? Would that
expanse look heater II It were
starched as stiff and smooth as a tile
In the bathroom floor? our collar
aches at the prospect, but you
wonder. You want TO know what's
what, and TO wear It, and the re-
formers have you or the run.
And then-your tie. A string OF
knitted stuff really seems rather
as the silver tongued sales
man points out, for an op~en-faced
vest. You agree with him. You
like TO cover as much OF that
shirt bosom as possible,
because Il makes you self-conscious.
And you probably end by buying the
and latest chest protector at
the haberdashery counter. a revival
Of the Culross scarf OF pious and ror-
NAL memory. with its great apron"
al one end.
Your father undoubtedly wore one
with his prince Albert" The sales
drawing your attention 10 It's
gorgeous coloring. beguiles you with
a def illustration of the different