davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The New York herald., 1922-04-16
JAMES SPEYER TO OPEN
ANTI-DRY MASS MEETING


James Speyer: az one or the active
vice-presfdents of TIE Association
Against the Prohibition Amendment will
call to order the mass meeting which the
association will hold May in Madison
Square Garden. James r. Holland,
president of the State Federation OF
Labor and also vice-president. will
preside. Members of various labor
bodies throughout the State will attend
In a body.
In accepting the chairmanship Mr..
Holland said: THE New York State
Federation Of Labor is heartily in accord
with the Association Against the Pro-
hibition Amendment and its demand that
the Volstead act be repealed. Prohibi-
tion may be of value in some depart
ments of labor, but in my opinion the
men who work in mines. power plants
or wherever there is excessive heat need
beer and are entitled to it,,
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

asserted that most of the protests
against the volstead act were due to
the increasing efficiency OF the Gov
ernment" in coping with violations
of it.
1T was not to be expected" said he,
that the people OF the country would
accommodate themselves to the new
conditions without considerable opposi-
ton from those who place their own
selfish desires above the public well
fare. 1t will take some time to make
the entire country dry. But the coun-
try will be made dry despite the re-
sistance of people who have no re-
spect for the laws OF the land.
IF the yiolators find any satisfac-
ton in trying to elect Congressman
who will favor the return or the de-
PRAYED conditions that existed five
years ago let them go ahead. They
will fail. Every day witnesses i'm
provement in tho conditions of the
country. The supply-.sf whisky hid
den away and drunk in violation OF
the law is daily diminishing. 1t will
not be long before it is all consumed
and all sources of supply shut off.
WET candidates for Congress who
make their campaign on wine and
beer platform-which, Of course, means
whisky as well--will find out that the
overwhelming majority of the peo-
pie of the country are satisfied with
the prohibition law despite the vast
sums of money spent in propaganda
against 1t.
With the exception OF New York
and one or two other States which al
ways oppose reforms for the public
good. wet candidates for Congress will
be defeated and their opponents who
FOR La nd J,
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

tenance or with the power TO apply for
permanent commitment in case the
apparent defective is found to be in
fact a defective.
IT have no doubt but that the present
provisions of law for the commitment
OF mental detectives are inadequate,
but the power to deprive an Individual
of his liberty for an indefinite period
on finding by a magistrate that he
Is apparently a mental defective should
certainly be most carefully guarded, IL
it is to be conferred at all.
THE mental deficiency problem Is still
unsolved in this State. 1t has received
the attention demanded by its impor-
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

tance only within recent years. 1t Is
estimated that there are 01.000 mental
detectives In the state wno ought to
have custodial care. At present the
capacity OF the State institutions Is
limited to about 5000. This act would
undoubtedly increase the commitments
to State Institutions. although the hos
pitfalls are now overtaxed. I think the
State must provide the custodial care
required the same as has been done In
the case of the insane. but 1t will take
time to secure the additional accom-
modations required Meanwhile the
subject should receive further study A
wears DELAY will not be so serious as
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

the enactment OF q measure which may
arouse unnecessary and harmful. pref
udice against the law.
II deplore the pernicious and mis-
leading propaganda directed against
this measure, which has aroused much
misinformed opposition and has created
a prejudice in the public mind which
will be harmful even in the admins
tration OF the present laws. The right
solution of this problem directly at
fects the welfare of society, and that
solution will not be advanced by mis-
leading appeals to popular prejudice"
Among the bills discarded by an om-
The New York herald., 1922-04-16
His Bathtub Sentence
Makes Him q Life Dry

N MAHA, April 15.--Roy Ma
honey, who was sentenced
yesterday by a police Judge
to empty, one by one, 1900 bottles
OF home brewed beer into bath
tub without touching drop. did
not. resume his task to-day.
After a hard days pouring he
became convinced last night that
he never would nor ever could touch
another drop, and his sentence was
commuted.
Policemen continued the pouring
to-day.
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

Original Paris model capcs from such
notable designers as Agnes, Worth
and Cara, also eounterparts of other fss-
cinating models by equally prominent
creators. One model of Satin Back Crepe
Nippon is beautifully combined with
Kasha Cloth and enriched with vari-hued
embroidery; another model of Twill Cord
is effectively all-over tucked and stitched
with tinsel thread. Silver braid embroi-
derry and Monkey fur adorn another.
The New York herald., 1922-04-16
Capes- Paris Models and
Exact Replicas

Patou has created cape as smart as It is
compelling. Stewart & Co. have repro
duccd this model with much care and
skill. Crepe Nippon has been chosen for
its fashioning and the rich collars of Beige
or Platinum Fox fur lend their shimmcring
luster to enhance the unique lines. Also
other enchanting models in straight, flow
ing lines and artistically drapcd types.
All handsomely Silk Crepe lined.
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

The exceptionally high character Of tai
loring and the exactitudc of minute
detail are the important features Of these
handsome two and three piece costume
suits of Twill Cord or Piquetine. The
box-coats and kncc-lcngth jackets hold
sway, and the dresses Of the three piece
models are combined with Silk Crepe in
contrasting shade to correspond with
the lining Of the coat. Admirable touches
of Silk embroidery, Silk braid and other
fanciful ornamcntation beautify many.
The New York herald., 1922-04-16

The artistry with which this dress of
Satin Back Canton Crepe is fashioned can
only be conceived by such famed cou-
turier as Patou. The wide, flaring sleeves
with contrasting color undcrsleeves are of
Georgette Crepe, as is the yoke edged
with hand embroidered stitching. let
beads adorn the front of dress and the
panels at side are lined to match the
embroidery.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

Jean Patou refuses to acknowledge
any intention of changing the silhouette,
at least at present, but it is noteworthy
that in his mid-season collection he
finds all sorts Of ways Of giving width
to his models without its being APP
parent. His suits frequently have the
straight hip-length coat, either belted or
unbelted. with moderate sized collars
and cuffs OF fur. One model is of
leather colored "cote de cheval"
wooden ribbed material. like wool cordu-
roy, with the reverse faced with a
bright soft tan, and the skirt piped
with the same color to accentuate its
cut. All the leather colors are well
liked by Jean Patou, who calls them
fur shades" He Is using much fur
as trimming. and some of his coats are
entirely lined with ecru American lamb.
Decidedly Russian is belted coat of
matelasse worn with. a wasted
blouse and simple skirt of wool crepe.
t6Sl1-12 and 6S10-12) The blouse achieves
distinction by its worsted embroideries
In q peasant motif worked in charac-
teristic colorings. The coat has the
The New York herald., 1922-08-27
Worth Believes Beige Gowns
Cannot Be Copied in Black,
Making Former Popular.
Copyright. 1872. BY Vogue,

(Copyright. 1872. by vogue.)
ANY houses arc interested In
MI a waist-line which mounts
toward the front and curves
downward in the back, and sometimes
this effect is gained by means OF
sirdie or drapery. arranged like an
Egyptian hip scarf. This movement
is engaging attention as tendency OF
the coming fashions. Germaine par
ticularly likes the girdle which mounts
toward the 'front.' in an upward curve.
a line which she considers slenderizing
in effect. A suit, from Lelong shows
the same line in the Jacket. This suit
is made of a material which the
French call >broche ct matelasse, bro
caded and quilted stuff. which Is In
teresting a good many OF the houses
for autumn models. Some use these
matelasse materials for the garment
itself, and some only for Innings. Jenny
and Germaine are among the latter.
Worth believes that even for street
wear black will fnd itself seriously
menaced by brown, and especially by
the beige tones. Already, he declares,
women have recognized that the model
which is presented to them in beige can
not be copied In black with thes same
effect This is something new, for we
have heard nothing but make me that
in black" for over two years. Worth will
continue to favor the oval neck line,
filled in with chemisette for the day.
time, which he introduced last Febru-
ary.
There Is a slight reaction against the
very popular bateau neck, though 1t
has not by any means left the mode so
far and though Jenny features it In the
majority of her midseason models
Sleeves at this house will continue to
be important, as Is indicated by the
elaborate soutacne braiding on the
sleeves of the models.
AS to skirt lengths, M. Worth ex-
claims reasonably enough what Is
long skirt? There Is one length for.
sports. another for walking. another for
dancing, and still another for dining"
and 1t is probable that it Is on some
such basis as this that the length of
skirts for the coming season will be ar
ranged. The waist line at Worth's is
rising and may reach its natural place
soon, but at present the majority OF
models place 1t just at the beginning
of the hip.
A model from Premet shows the ideas
Of this house for the fall. This suit Is
one of the wool broche and matelasse
materials, in a smoke gray. The jacket
is unbelted in the back. very slightly
bloused at the waist, and belted In the
front with a sort Of scarf Of matching
gray broadcloth, which also appears in
bands upon the coat. The sash tied at
the side, characteristic of Premet suits
all this suAmer, is retained in this early
autumn model. Premet was one Of the
first to drop all skirts to the ankle, and
he retains this length even for street
wear. Chocolate browns and also some
of the colder grays are favorites with
this house. One hears rumors that cold
colors, browns and grays. with blue in
them instead of the warmer reds or
yellows will be approved for winter.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

colored velvets will be used to get
richer. warmer effect The skirt once
had flares on the side to match the
Jacket, but Molyneux decided to take
them out and keep tne skirt straight
and somewhat narrow. This is an inn
Drovement. The Jacket is in one piece,
goes over the head. is embroidered In
dull gold threads with small touches
OF color and carries a narrow belt at
the hips. This idea is repeated In bright
green and red ribbon as Molyneux in
tends 10 do much decorating with rib
bons In primary colors. lie also uses
great placques Of silver and onyx to
catch bolts and girdles.
His new belts are curiously made
of strands of colored beads. some times
supporting large red roses that look
Ike wax. Violet beads. steel links,
lacquer. red leather strands are among
the things put together to make con-
spicuous hip decoration. The waistline
Ia rising higher each week, so women
must make up their minds to get thin.
to wear corsets. or look like a pillow.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

tention because t. too. has a strong In
dian favor. 1t Is black crepe de chine
covered with small steel rings so thickly
that II ciatters when one moves. Tho
peplum Is cut into battlements and there
is small belt of crepe caught with two
steel disks in front. 1t fastens to the
chin and is worn with plain crepe skirt.
There Is much OF this coat OF mail
appearance about fabrics that are in
tended to give an Indian effect. Also
there Is a quantity of small ruby glass
used and tiny Furnished metal disks like
primitive mirrors. This is taken straight
from the interior of India.
On one of the semi-formal sport hats,
not the thing TO play golf In. there are
insets OF oblong bits OF Jade and ruby
glass In the tight scrolls of dull gold
embroidery. The shape is simple. merely
a wide round crown with high cuff. all
equally covered with the embroidery and
tits of color
~ lovely. II is made by Alex lie Breton
Of black silk tricot. simple In shape, with
embroidery at neck. sleeves and hem OF
the kind done by the colonial French. a
kind of Chinese stitch, fine. close. thick,
as IL 1t were padded. The design is or
shaded roses and parrots in jungle
colors II liz not famboyant; far from II.
La Breton makes another sweater
for the beaches and country houses,
also of black silk tricot. which Is some
times attached to silk tricot skirt
but Is prettier without II. IL has a
waistcoat effect In front, which Is the
smart movement of the hour on blouses:
no matter what the fabric. 1t Is framed
with parrot crepe de chine. inside OF
which is riot Of small shaded roses
and bits OF mirrors and jade. over the
shoulders spread the roses.
This sweater goes with a turban,
called a sport hat by courtesy, which
Is covered by silver braid tiny braid.
so thiclxly placed that 1t takes a second
glance to discover that the hat is not
cloth or silver. 1t. too, is studded
sparsely with ruby glass and mirrors.
Accenfuates Sales of Beads.
If we are to be Indian. pearls should
gain in Importance. But there's no
way for them to get more prestige. for
they are as thickly worn over here as
In India. A colonial potentate must be
astounded at the women who wear cas-
cades of the jewels. = He will probably
take to emeralds in defiance.
Some of the pearls worn by Amer
leans are as big as hard boiled ezga
And some Of the richest Americans wear
imita tions all the time. Expensive imi-
tations. true, but ! wonder what's the
use in having money unless you spend
It?
The Indian, Cochin China and other
colonial influence has brought colored
beads into almost as much Importance
as precious jewels. Jade is very ex-
pensve, but IL swings from hundreds OF
necks. Quartz OF every color is run
after like gold. Pale amethysts are
most desirable. All these are worn as
necklaces and long earrings that touch
the shoulders.
If you have the least ambition to be
fashionable here you must wear some
kind of ear ornament. And IL must
touch the shoulder or approach 1t.
Precious stones are taboo.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

that followed the Russian movement In
dress hred the Imagination OF Paris. Her
designers may have been in old and new
India chance to accentuate the Oriental
iE manner that was not quite Persian
end with only touch OF Chinese.
Almost a year ago the people who
make accessories created gorgeous um-
brellas like those carried over the young
blond head OF the heir TO the British
throne. and although few women could
be found to carry them, they stirred
and stimulated the imagination.
After the incident of the Princes visit.
which was widely featured by photo
graphs. France brought up her pictur-
esque--some say too picturesaue--Colo-
malls for her fair and these extraordi-
nary dancers from a slightly known
country gave the last impetus to the
movement toward fashions from races
that make no effort to be modern.
I'VE may go so far In this direction
that women will wear ornate horns on
their shoulders" said designer. "They
are worn by that bit bf marvellous ami
nation. the favorite dancer OF the King
Sissowath, she who came to dance at
the Bal Colonial"
Well. who can tell7 Maybe this
fashion will really come to pass.
Queerer things have been done. This
much 10 true. The glitter and decorative
effect OF all these. peoples will have the
strongest influence on modern dress. 1t
may be a horn. or buckle, cuirass of
fine steel and silver, fiat tight en-
broidery OF small jungle birds. glitter
ing caps :-whatever shape the assembling
OF these things takes the public will
connect them with the curious and fam
tastic, also artistic races that are
classed under the term Of French
Colonials
We group the new things under tho
one word Oriental. 1t saves time and
study.
Again Gowns of Cashmere.
Evidently the hour Of the cashmere
shawl frock is not over, Women OF
position wear 1t. 1t is one OF the DOM
inant Indian touches OF the season.
Pieces of Indian shawls are no longer
patched on frocks or Jackets possibly
that fashion is finished; but the loose.
one-piece frock. completely Indian In
its accessories, is<almost startling and
quite worth initiating.
A good one worn at an afternoon tea
dance was In dull red, the Simla color,
with not too strident designs flowing
over IT. the hip sash was mass or
bright green ribbons held In by large
malachite ornament at one side. The
necklace of green beads was matched
by pendant earrings and the turban was
made OF the gown fabric. the high In
dian drapery run through by malachite
pin.
Molyneux's Indian Jacket is quite 4
success with Americans. II brings
memories Of Poirets minaret tunic be-
fore the war. 1t Is not shaped after
the manner of the cashmere shawl
jumper Jacket which was the success OF
the spring races; that had tight hip
band; this one has its opposite. flar-
ing tunic of conspicuous proportions
Also 1t is part OF a suit. 1t Is not a
separate garment.
The material is black velvet. but wine
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

In Jenny's collection the coat, as a
complement to the frock, has taken the
place of the cape. This gray duvetine
coat has a collar which Is really o gray
velvet bourrelet, and rows of velvet
buttons trim the sleeves and the side
The straight frock underneath is Of
mouse gray velvet, with the godets
placed at the left side front.
Over a straight frock Of brown crepe
de chine. which has lower skirt Of
black bure. Jenny places three-quarter
length coat with a decided flare. The
coat Is OF brown bure. combined with
black bure, and is edged with rolls OF
brown agnella on black chiffon.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

high collar and the long, wide sleeves
so often seen in this type Of costume.
A lovely frock of the type so ex-
tensively worn In Paris at present Is
developed with long blouse of maize
georgette crepe, embroidered all over
in small crystal beads, and with skirt
of coral That's velvet, draped upward
toward the left hip, where IL Is fast
ened under a huge buckle Of crystal
squares. The drapery at the left falls
far below the edge of the skirt In q
slight train. (6S53)
Jenny has revived the three-quarter
length coat and expects to launch it
seriously this autumn. In this model,
the fabric is beige duvetine, and the wide
band of fur at the bottom of the coat
and the collar are of beige fox. Rows
of black tailor braid trim the sleeves
and make a band above the fur.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27
Paris Goes to India
For Clothes Inspiration

PARIS, Aug. 17.--Possibly the recent
visit of the Prince of Wales to his
possessions in India created feeling in
the French dressmaking world that the
time was ripe for a departure from all
that was Russian. Possibly the success
The New York herald., 1922-08-27
cuira.s of Shining Leather.

Throwing their weight to the Indian
movement. the Dolly sisters. dancers.
began the racing month Of August in
Deauville wearing bodices and slightly
full skirts of startling new leather that
Molyneux made up for them. 1t Is a
twin sister to aluminium, but as supple
is velvet. 1t neither cracks nor breaks.
They have wrinklcd boots TO so with
the gowns.
The leather is to be used in the au-
tumn in separate cuirass bodices with
out decoration. 1t couldn't stand that.
But Ii can stand three inch belt OF
silver links with lapis lazuli beads In
terseeted by fiat red roses made Of some-
thing that looks like porcelain.
The most amusing and sensational
fabric launched is the silk worn by the
Dolly sisters and called The Night
Club" 1t is definitely pictorial. pre-
senting a series Of scenes of dancing
women in extreme decolletage, of men.
young and old. looking on or dancing
jazz, and one curious old character. con-
stantly repeated, holding monoeie to
his eye with hand like a parrot The
work of an artist, this.
Such fabric will never serve the pub
lie for gowns. but pieces OF II should
be bound and hung on the wall like
1IlIltsG paHtlo~ II > ltdlHeT IN Ine
twin caps of the "Dollys" to. launch It.
The invention OF aluminium colored
leather and It's orice alone assure the
watchers that the designers have not
finished with this material. Three
years Of its semi-usage have not dis
heartened the dressmakers Bits OF
leather trim many garments, although
there is no strong attempt to make any
larger garment of II than the jumper
jacket for cold days and for motoring
Most probably the success OF soft
suede in short jackets was the in
spiration for this new metallic locking
leather without the hardness OF metal.
The season is far. too vague I'm its out
lines yet to foreteil success or failure
for 1t, but when one sees whole hides
OF this fabric in the studios of the de-
signers, something Of Importance Is ex-
pected.
The separate jacket is by no means
dead and there is one which attracts at
The New York herald., 1922-08-27

An alluring Indian belt has been worn
recently by young girl from New York
with a gray wool jersey frock. II was
made Of large. thick medallions OF
carved and beaten silver linked with
silver loops. The color OF the Jersey
was elephant gray and 1t actually fitted
her about as well as an elephants skin
fits him. 1t wrinkled and doubled up.
yet the effect was good, much as you
may doubt it.
This girl had the goodness. to fasten
the rolling fronts OF the frock with a
huge jade pin set in silver and add a
long string of Jade beads. When Il came
to choosing her hat she also did well.
1t was Of mauve felt surrounded by
tiny parrakeets. the sprightly littls
wings in green, red and bright yellow
you look like France and you only
LANDED this morning" called out q
friend. How did you do it?"
"By getting my frock In London. my
hat In New York and my belt In simla."
was the answer.
The New York herald., 1922-08-27
68II-12 and 68ro-I2-Three piece
costumes for early autumn intro
duce new fabric combinations.
6853-Draping the evening gown.

high collar and the long, wide sleeves
so often seen in this type of costume
Norwich bulletin., 1922-10-13

he's hs.ne with Mr. and Mrs. Eddy Bur- dick.
 Ralph Hutchinson of Bristol Is the guest of his aunt and uncle, Mir. and Mrs, Linesih White,
 glaud Eidredgs has gone to Willi- mantle to spend the winter with his cousin, Mrs. DanheIn.
 Roy Flint spent Eunday at his home in West Stafford.
 MT. Meyer is having large shed built.
 W. c. Rucy and Louis Dimek have been on hunting trip in the Berk- shires.
 Charles Arnidon has moved his steam sawmill to Mansfield Four Corners. Wilbert Ruby's. mill is located on the Mason lot in Mansfield, but is not run ming at present.
 Miss Mildred Amidon is attending Nor nal schoef at Willimantic. and Miss Hazel Anidon attends the high school.
 The Center school is not in session this week. as the teacher, Mrs. Walter Gahan is i'll.
 Friends in town have received an nouncement of the birth of a daughter to MT. and Mrs. Stanley I. Coley at Natick, Mass. Mrs. Coley was formerly Miss Julia Cartier and resided here with rher parents, who later moved from town.