davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1922-01-07

- MI. rvin Cities are excited over the cost OF
s+reetcar riding The company now collects y
sents for rides from Minneapolis to the Midway dis
.trct. whereas before the rate was cents: 10 ges
,en there is talk in both cities about FORCING ehe
eturn Of tae scent rate. 1t looks like fare
with the strcctcar company on the fare-yewel emu
of it, Or something like that.
Rudolph Lee, publisher of the Long Prairie Lead
ar = being urged to make the for state senator
from Todd district. Rudy is the son OF the
late VIM. E. Lee, and would make good represent
from any district but the district being strong
Nonpartisan indications are that Rudy would have
q battle royal to win.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Yet the high collar is the fashion.
No one disputes that truth. and a
fashion observer 10 foolish who claims
that any new style will not be ac-
cepted. The ups and downs of skirts
proved the fallacy of prophecy All
one can say is that the problem of
the hour which faces every woman Is
what decolletage to adopt II she
continues with tho so-called lillian
neck line, she must succeed through
various experiments in breaking its
length and holding 1t in place.
One fashion established beyond per-
adventure is the extreme decolletage
for evening. Although the Moyen
age fashions are in full swing and
will be. the oriental exposure of the
upper part Of the body Is a success
full experiment The dressmakers
have induced women to drop the high
necked frock after o'clock in the
evening. Doing this, they have re-
sorted to extraordinary and capricious
expedients for emphasizing the
change. The oriental ideas rule.
The Cambodian ballet in Paris
started fashions swinging toward
Evening star., 1922-12-03

and patted It neatly into place, 1t
went of at a rakish tandem in fve
minutes. Sedate women. suddenly
seeing themselves in a street mirror,
found that the neck opening had
slipped we'll over one arm to expose
a wide segment of the back and arm.
A frantic adjustment followed, but
the episode was ceaselessly repeated.
Tho trade people, as usual, scent
ing a penny in the offlng. Immediately
directed their clever imagination to
inventing schemes by which this OBJ
long opening at the neck would be-
como less rakish. The French Jew
elers brought out the platinum shoul-
der chain, which linked the two edges
Of the neckline together. Those who
could not afford platinum used frock-
colored bands Of velvet or satin rib
bon across the shoulders to servo the
same purpose.
Last August in Paris tho American
dressmakers who were buying models
for US found q clever idea exploited
by smart women in the use of a fiat
velvet bow knot, embroidered In
rhinestones, which held the neck line
securely together at the shoulder tips.
Other tricks employed to steady
this rebellious decolletage were jet
bretelles, which were snapped to the
edges Of the neck line as they passed
over It, and tiny silk cords that were
looped through . ring 1t the back
ana knotted In small tassels Of silk
floss or silver in the front
Evening star., 1922-12-03
Neck Lines Grow Higher in the Day and Much Loweri
Have Tilted Ideas PubcYou Catch
Will and Make Your OvnPobm of the Hour Which
Every What Detage Ideas Rule
Evening Wear-Ppaganda for the High Collar Several Shapes

The professional and amateur in
clothes worked together to Offset the
ungraciousness OF this neck line,
which was not intended for every
woman. But no one particular method
prevailed, and none was especially
successful, although the variety Of
effort lent charm to the costumery.
THIS season there is a running
i fight going on between designers
and the public. Women are not
adopting every change offered in ap-
rarel this year. They prefer to con-
tinue the chemise frock, the loose
girdle or belt, the Italian neck line.
although they submit to long sleeves
instead Of short ones. Yet there are
changes which they will have to ac-
cept. The public may cling to the
slip-on frock for another half GEN.
tury. for what women did once women
will do again: but they are gradu-
ating into the full skirt attached to
the end of fifteenth century bodice
and they are beginning to accept the
round neck line finished with the Nat
bertha of lace. This lace is thread or
metal. The collar Is deep or shallow.
The shops realize this trend Of
affairs. for they advertise in glowing
terms such collars as our immediate
ancestors wore. Last spring a woman
hesitated to embelish a severe neck
line with anything so frivolous as
lace. Only the few dared 1t. Now
the many turn their attention to 1t.
These collars can be made OF any lace
one possesses or is able to buy. but
cheap lace is barred. 1t has no place
in such decoration. If you cannot
afford good collar, II you do not
possess precious lace that can be
fashioned into one, avoid the fashion.
Still. with all these changes. the
Italian neck line persists. No prophet
Is sufficiently bold to say that 1t will
disappear in the Immediate future.
Too many of our new gowns are fash
ioned with it for US to give up the
idea Many of the dressmakers pre-
fer to cut frock as 1t has been In
stead of inventinE a new decolletage.
but there is always the relief Of a
lace collar for it. and there always
should be the relief OF a necklace.
And regarding necklaces 1t may be
we'll to print warning sign. II the
neck Is large and the shoulders are
padded with flesh. choose a fiat neck
lace. Round beads draw attention to
flesh by seemingly increasing it. To
avoid this jewellers Invented the
graduated string of pearls.
! All bead necklaces should be pat
| termed after the jewelers. idea. but
the woman with the large neck and
! the feshy shoulders should not wear
any kind of round necklace. except
pearls No one should ask her to
forego that pleasure.
To return to the tricks that hold
oblong necklines together. Jenny of
Paris, whose tricks Americans adopt.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Straps Of Jewels over the shoulders.
supporting negligible bodices, are re-
vived. The gown that Is high in
front and disappears in back is with
US again. A French model recently
rangement for the back of an evening
gown, and its success started UP q
general fashion for that sort OF thing.
In this gown the back is of flesh pink
chiffon or georgette crepe. 1t ex-
tends to the top of the shoulders and
drops to the waist line. tightly stretch
ed over the skin. Over this panel the
material of the gown is draped or cut
in a deep deceiIete. Sometimes 1t is
v-shaped, and SO deeply pointed that
a band of fiat flesh pink roses shows
beneath 1t at the waist line. Again, it
IL draped in Arab hood effect.
1t is a clever trick and a gracious
one, for 1t softens the skin. Only ex-
treme youth should totally uncover
the back, but any woman. unless she
is padded with flesh, can attempt an
extreme decolletage II she first COW
ers the skin with flesh chiffon or
crepe. 1t Is oriental sophistication.
The hiding of flesh by thin wells ID
moro alluring than its exposure.
The spinelly neck line, which has
had Its followers in theatrical work,
is revived for those who are not
young enough to stand the girdle
bodice. 1t Is arranged by bringing a
point Of the skirt material to the
neck in front, fastening 1t there to
q ribbon which ties at back. The
bodice Is merely a girdle Of whatever
material one desires.
Tho newest gown that adopts this
decolletage-if one may call a thing
so fragile by so large a name-is of
soft brocade in dull blue and rust.
The girdIebodice is of silver tissue.
not the heavy kind that women wore
when such garments were in fashion
during the war. but a new. pliable It's
sue. oriental in its suppleness.
These bodices are often covered
with a layer Of flesh pink chiffon or
georgette crepe to eliminate what
ever harshness they possess. No
metallic cloth is really good against
human flash. 1t hardens whatever 1t
touches.
II you have read this far 1t is easy
to realize a potent fact which pene-
trates all fashions this winter. which
Is that the dressmakers have tilted a
cornucopia of ideas over the public.
You can catch what you will and
make 1t your own. Some are new;
some are old. very old.
Copyright. 1922
Evening star., 1922-12-03
Youth Into Old Age.

Tho really supple figure never grows
old. have seen men In their seventies
stand as straight and look as young as
men barely thirty, and / have seen
women Of sixty or more. and many
times a grandmother. with the youth
full slimness and activity Of quite young
girls. have in mind a woman OF
sixty four who looks. from the back,
when a hat conceals her gray hair,
like a girl of eighteen.
This is never due to luck. but is due
to exercise and perseverance. Some peo-
pie. Of course, retain their youth longer
than others They never Seem to go to
any special pains to take care Of them
selves, they live quite unhealthy lives
and vet youth stays with them. But
these women are unusual. My advice is
not for them. They are peculiarly
blessed and do not need it. Ny advice is
for the average woman who will grow
stiff and bent and wrinkled as the yeart
| advance unless she takes precautions te
preserve her figure and complexion.
The first bit Of advice is-don't ge'
fat. Layers of flesh will keep you from
! exercising and will cover up any re-
; naming trace Of youth or grace. A cir
! of seventeen with a fat figure does no,
look young.
The second bit Of advice is-exercise
| the waist. If the waistline is supple al
the motions of the body will be easy
and graceful II the waistline is stifi
the whole body will seem stiff. Besides
it will prevent a great number Of nat
! ural little motions and exercises which
Evening star., 1922-12-03
Before Marriage.

: Ono Of the sss problems that present
present themselves to the bride-to-be
during the three or four weeks before
the great event Is to take place is
this: Who should entertain the
bridegroom's relatives II they come
from out of. town? This is question
that, Of course. does not arise where
tho bridegroom's family lives in the
same town as his fiancee. But when
the parents OF the Bridegroom come
from even short distance 1t is
courteous to see that they are housed
comfortably for the night following
and usually the night preceding the
wedding, or at least to give them a
convenient place to dress for the oc-
casion.
There Is a very old rule that would
groom to be housed under the same
roof with his bride-to-be the night
before the wedding. In fact, he Is
not customarily the house guest of
the brides family at any time imme-
diately preceding tho wedding. This
is the rule. but Of late years 1t has
not been Kept very strictly. and in
tho marriage arrangements Of many
Of the prominent families whose
daughters become tho brides of
foreigners the bridegrooms in ques-
ton remain from the time they arrive
in this country, shortly before the
wedding. till they depart with the
newly-made bride.
Among most middle-class Ameri-
cans, however. there is a prejudice
against this, and usually some rela-
tive or close friend of the brides
family. asks to house the fiance be-
fore the wedding when he comes from
out of town. If there is no such
obliging friend then he should of his
own accord suggest that he remain
at q hotel or boarding house. In this
case he should, of course. pay his
own bills.
However. the bridegroom's mother
and father are usually regarded as
tho guests of the brides family for
the wedding and they may either be
entertained at the brides house or, II
more convenient, at the home of a
near friend or relative. II there Is
no place for them but a hotel OF
boarding house, the brides family
should make all arrangements fol
tho expenses of the sojourn there
Needless to say. II the bridegroom's
family are very much better to dc
than the family Of the bride, then
such expenses should not be borne
by the brides family. In that case
the bridegroom would very tactfully
make arrangements at q hotel fol-
the accommodation Of his parents
and gently insist on paying the ex.
pensea.
Evening star., 1922-12-03
Little Fruit Cakes,

One cupful each Of citron, figs,
raisins and dates chopped fne: four
eggs three cupfuls of sugar. two
cupfuls Of butter. one cupful Of mo-
lasses, and one teaspoonful each of
cinnamon. cloves and mace. Add a
teaspoonful Of soda dissolved in ONE
half cupful Of water and two tea
spoonfuls OF baking powder sifted
with one-half cupful Of -four. Add
-four to make it stiff enough to roll
out. Roll one-half an inch thick.
Cut in rounds and bake in a moderate
oven.
Evening star., 1922-12-03
HeelS-FrOnt Girl Now Pointing Way
AS Feminine Figure IS Put on Trial

'If you wan. your husband to stay
at home" advises Irene. wear cor
sets! Husbands. tired after their
days work, are not satisfied to come
home and look at wives who swell or
sag"
The girls trust to heels-front.
THEY have hitched their wagon to
i a star Like this. They aim TO
follow the blessed mannequins. Like
this. The high fashion pundits reg
| ularly claim to laugh both at the
!, corset and heels-front. Among them
the most outspoken in Molyneux, the
young Napoleon of dressmaking. who
since the war has leaped to control
Of the greatest establishment of the
capital, imposing, very much. the
styles.
According to Molyneux, all fem
,, mime figures are perfect-after they
are dressed. The corset people have
been coming to see his people. ask
ing II they will not have their man
nequins wear corsets made to meas
ure for them. They took Hebe's meas
ures. and made stays. But she never
wears them! 1--WE like supple
waist line made by a soft girdle."
! says Miss Dorothy, the private sec
retary. "and. not a stin corset. Just
a tiny little soft whale-boned girdle"
And there you are.
Miss Hebe can do it.
And, just to follow proud young
mannequins. the mass of girls risk
sag and "corporation"! AS to the
sag. Molyneux is a bit equivocal.
You see heels-front results" I
said. You see them everywhere. Or
else what is 1t? Don't you think
their secret work is throwing back
| the sag? Or else, what is it,"
Capt. Molyneux appeared to claim
(, it for his waist line. Just like that!
| There's modesty for a styles leader!
"Girdles are raised in front and
| they go down behind. just a tiny BIT"
explained Miss Dorothy. 1T would
| cause a woman to stand more erect
and seem to lean back more. would
it not?"
Hum, hum! A wondrous remedy
for sagging-to draw a chalk-line
| round your waist!
Meanwhile the girls who sagged
(and now sag less) are sloshing
around the house OF mornings in their
heels-front shoes. Unused muscles
| are strengthened. and knees and hips
| are shifted to give new support
| where new support was cruelty
| needed!
| Either heels-front does the trick
Or else you'll see . rush back to
stiff corsets!
Evening star., 1922-12-03
BY STERLING HEILIG.


TN Paris, girls wear heels front.
1t does not mean that they walk
backward. The heels are. truly.
where the toes ought to be, but
the toes are not where the heels
ought to be. The heels are simply
under the toes, But no heels are un-
der the heels.
There's only one thing under the
heelS-the earth!
And, so. sloshing around in these
monstrosities Of shoes. the heels
front girl is thrown backward.
OF course, she does not wear heels
front in public. The strange shoes are
merely for practice-to lift up the
sasging feminine figure of the pres
ent hour. Unused muscles are
STRENGTHENED. Knees and hips are
shifted to new support of the sloppy
profile. which is beginning to frighten
one and all!
Tho onlv other remedy would be
corset. But it is just to continue go
ing corsetless that the eccentric
remedy of heels-front Is tried!
The craze is notable. Nobody knows
who started It. No leading dress
maker claims it-despite the valuable
publicity which could result from
such a claim; because the Paris pa
pers are jibing about heels-front. and
all the shoemakers are busy making
notifications.
The heels-front girl Is everywhere
rich, poor, Intelligent, ignorant, ele-
giant and commonplace.
Which shows that here. in Paris.
she is worried about her sagging ns-
ure-she who was going to be so
straight and graceful without cor
sets!
THEY took the corsets OF in 1918.
i They were said to have acquired
the panthers slouching grace-sup-
Pile, relaxed. unjointed.
Rodin drew q scheme Of how they
ought to roll on their launches. We
were back to undulatory grace. and
the harmonious wrigglings of the
girls Of Seville and Venice.
In six months waists increased six
linches-and have since continued to
increase. Never have girls eaten so
| heavily, in good society. remember
i how. in September, 1918, three emanci-
| pated ones destroyed \ saddle Of lamb.
after slices Of melon and big portions
Of potted pigeon. and there followed
a Melba peach and pastry! Must
have strength to dance the tango!'
the girls said in 1913. when they
took the corsets of. They had q place
to put 1t!
It is said that the place has now BE-
Evening star., 1922-12-03

has Just put out a new model Of black
moire in which the neck Is held in
place by a broad band across the
front. The sketch shows 1t. The
smart Frenchwoman wears her string
Of pearls or crystals under this band, not
over It.
TENNY has started tho American
j dressmakers on doing propaganda
work for the high collar in several
shapes. Whether or not Americans
will accept 1t no seventh son Of a
seventh son can tell. They may wear
it in tho popular French manner,
which is to keep it separate from the
frock, casually attaching 1t to the
front of the neck line. This fashion
is new in America. It is six months
old in Paris. The first small fashion
that American noticed at tho races in
for Information, was this separate
collar in leather, in ribbon, in jew
eled velvet, in braid. One of the
popular models Of this season is in
, brown. the neck line in the usual OBJ
long and the collar Of braid latticed
in front, with ends attached to the
front Of the bodice.
If there's propaganda for these high
collars, the argument against them is
strong and potent. They will surely
cause a double chin, say adversaries.
They push the flesh up against the
ears and jawbone unless one has the
neck Of chicken. No American
woman will risk that. She will let
high collars sink into the discard, no
matter II every French woman wears
them, If she sees her exhausting sac
rifices in diet. exercise and sleepless-
ness go by the board. She has re-
fused to wear dog collars of Jewels
for a dozen years because they push
flesh against the face. She discarded
high corsets because they pushed flesh
under the arms. She stopped wearing
high shoes because they pushed flesh
above the edges. She firmly. finally
and absolutely refuses to bulge.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Indo- Chino. Even the Venetian Meyer
age gowns. which comprise a long
straight bodice with a slightly full
skirt gathered to the bodice just be.
low the waist line. coincide with Ger.
tain oriental clothes. In a more dar.
ing form that type Of gown was worn
for Thousands of years by oriental
dancers.
X \ 4
THE production in Paris Of Henri
L Bernstein's new play, Judith
has an undoubted effect upon the de-
signs which the French dressmakers
are selling to tho American buyers
1t Will influence new spring clothes
shown on the 1st of February. There
fore. there is no escape from the
oriental trappings for the top Of the
body, probably. when one is dressed
in festal clothes.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

THE HIGH EVENING FROCK
CONTINUES TO BE FASHIONABLE,
ESPECIALLY WHEN THERE IS A
FLOATING PANEL AT BACK. IN
THIS ONE THE NECK LINE IS so
HIGH IN FRONT THAT IT
WRINKLES ABOVE THE COLLAR.
BONE WHILE THE FABRIC Is CUT
AWAY OVER THE SHOULDERS
INTO TWO DEEP POINTS CAUGHT
WITH A JEWELED BUTTON.
Evening star., 1922-12-03
BY ANNE RITTENHOCsE.

ME neck line Is not quiescent.
1t rises and falls. Even the
casual observer feels there are
restless forces behind 1t, fore
ing 1t to change with the moon.
A year ago the Paris dressmakers
tried to impose the high collar upon
a public which refused 1t. but the
effort, without any appreciable sue
cess. left a trail Of discomfort and
uncertainty. No woman was quite
sure that the bateau neck line was
secure. It had been accepted with
out cavil during the war and after 1t.
True, every one disapproved of It at
first Critics and artists spoke Of its
u4liness and warned the American
Evening star., 1922-12-03

woman she could not stand Its harsh
ness But the American woman. like
those on other continents, did stand 1t.
It was low or high, straight across
the shoulders, or dipping in front or
back; but. whatever its exact forma-
tion, 1t was as troublesome as flea.
and for the same reason that q flea
is troublesome-it hoped, skipped and
jumped oyer the. neck and shoulders:
No matter how well one arranged It.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

como q Corporation" like the pud-
ding-baS that Jack tho Giant Killer
wore in front to fool the ogre.
Only. they have fears. finally. that
It does not fool the ogres at all
while only too sure that their uncor-
seted figure in saGsdng. slumping. set
Ting.
A gin with . perfect physique 1nle.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Irene Bordoni. famous in Paris As a
fashion figure. claims that even heels
front will not save the situation!
She maintains that women. in Paris.
are in a 'jelly-fish condition." due to
the absence Of corsets. She affirms
that without corsets we shall soon
have walking barrels and holsters,
not women, In Paris and New York;
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Ginger Is mentioned in the ancient
Roman tariff lists and was introduced
into the Island of Jamaica from the
East Indies by the Spaniards.
Bielefold. a Westphalian linen town
prints its bank notes on linen and
silk
Evening star., 1922-12-03
BEAUTY CHATS
By Edna
Kent Forbes.

in themselves. would help keep the
body young.
Waist bending exercises are the best.
These will take flesh from the abdo-
men. hips. and up and down the back.
Stand with the hands on the hips, bend
forward and backward as far as pos
sible and as far as possible to each
side.
Jane.-In practicing deep breathing.
stand before the glass at first. to be
sure that you have the correct position,
and then fnhale deep breaths that fill
the lower part Of the lungs. Hold while
you count three and then exhale slowly.
Repeat this performance ten times at
first and increase it each day.
II you find that you become dizzy az
first. stop the breathing for an instant
and then return to it Immediately. as
this only means that you arc taking
into your blood more oxygen than you
have been accustomed to having: but
since it also shows you how you have
. been starving your system previous to
this. It Is too important to be ignored
any longer. Gradually. this dizziness
will disappear and with it will be richer
blood. improved health and a clearer
skin.
Evening star., 1922-12-03

Princess Mary OF England is very
economical. She is conducting her
household affairs so the living ex-
penses are about S5.75 a person a
week
Evening star., 1922-12-03

TN Paris, girls wear nee1s front.
1t does not mean that they walk
backward. The heels are. truly.
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1922-08-23
WOMAN,s CoNTPLEX Lice

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