davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
FROCK
Style Employed as Means Of ri.
Versifying Straight Dress.
Hand Work Done on Material Chan
aeterizes Many Of Present Sea-
sons Latest Models.

The cape-back is well liked this
season, and is frequently employed as
a means Of diversifying the simple
straight dress, observes a fashion
authority. In afternoon and evening
froeks the cape-back sleeve Is often
seen. 1t Is worked out by means of
a straight piece OF lace, or the fabric
from which the dress is made, that
goes acroSS the back in the form OF a
cape and extends along the length
OF the arms TO the wrists, where Il
may be partly held in by means Of a
band.
An important model Of this sort is
of navy blue crepe marOcaIn en-
broidered in a matching color.
Intricate detail in the form Of hand
work done on material characterizes
ever SC, many of the new models. Tiny
folds and appliques Of self materials
are used.
On many models of georgette and
chiffon fine plaitings replace tucks as
trimming. So fine are these plaits
that at distance the effect is that
of cording. White chalk beads worked
into fanciful designs are the means
of Ornamenting models of white silk
- chiffon. A very unique trimming
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
SHAWL, PARIS FAD
Spanish Shoulder Decoration At
tracts Attention to Gown.
Noted Dressmaker Stresses the Nip
ponese Note In Exquisite Out
1T for Formal Wear.

The Spanish shawl has brought out
an entirely new type Of evening dress
which Is nothing more than a simple
crepe de chine, low neck, sleeveless
robe which matches the shawl In col
or. There Is nothing more lovely be
ing worn in all Paris at the present
time. says a writer In the New York
Tribune, than this type Of dress, a fad,
as 1t were, among chic women who
wish to attract attention by their
striking clothes. When wearing such
costume one looks like a brilliant
hued tropical flower or a bird Of rare
plumage.
Recently at a fashionable restaurant
in Paris charming outfit Of this kind
was seen. A beautiful red-haired cir!
wore a vivid empire green crepe de
chine dress and Spanish shawl. The
shawl was embroidered in enormous
peOnles in dahlia shades, covering a
range from the beautiful dahlia pinks
down to a deep clematis blue. This,
In contrast with the vivid green of
the foundation, made indeed bril-
liant spot of color. The woman wore
chain of silver beads, braided
through her auburn tresses.
Another restaurant gown in burnt
orange crepe de chine had an eX-
tremely low neck, sleeveless bodice
and draped skirt. II was entirely
without trimming and had a match
ing Spanish shawl, this embroidered
in the most vivid cOlOrs with deep
fringe having knOtted ends.
II is TO Paul Poiret, the eccentric
though admittedly talented Paris man
1reSsmaker, that fashion owes some
II her more remarkable turns. Just
now N. POiret distinguishes himself
Dy emphasizing the japanese note.
At a recent ball given in connection
with the dressmaking trade Of Paris
a POlret mannequin wore an exquisite
dress decidedly japanese in effect,
win her cOiffeur a la JapanOIse and
her face made up to resemble Jap
anese maSque. The dress was de
velOped from black satin, silver fringe
and a gorgeous silver brOcade, on
which there were japanese flowers in
natter blue and rose.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
SOME CLEVER LINEN FRoCKS
Fabric Featured In Garments for
Young Girls; chambray Also
Interesting Material.

Linens are featured in frocks for
children and young girls. One de-
signed for a girl of twelve or fourteen
years, is especially charming because
% its color combination and interest
ing trimming. The dress was shown
in a light, dull green piped in henna,
and the blocks of embroidery on
sleeves and skirt, both back and front,
were done in several shades Of green,
dull red, yellow, and touches Of black
also appearing.
The dress is a perfectly straight,
smOck-like affair, and could be made
by any home dresSmaker. Any gar
ments that are handmade or hand-em-
brOidered must of necessity be ex-
pensive II bought ready-tO-wear. The
woman who is skillful with her needle
Is fortunate when handmade and hand
decorated garments are the vogue, be-
cause simplicity Is almost always the
dominant note in the designing Of
these garments, so that time and pa
thence are her major requirements
with a handsome and exclusive ward
robe as her reward.
Another little tailored lin, . rock,
featured a straight front and back
panel with little strap belS ar either
side. holding the dress in Anyrifs and
giving a slight side flare below she
waiStline. Plain, heavy linen IN y
dull blue was used for the frr -, with
pipings in rose. Blocks of embroidery
on skirt and sleeves were mUld-rol
Ored. The dress was a slipO or. 6pt
the slight opening was at the back
instead Of the side front.
Brown chambray fashioned another
dainty little frOck, cuffs, collar and
pockets were Of white Organdie en-
brOidered in brown and red wool yarn.
The pockets were criss-crOssed all
over, while mere line Of embroidery
finished collar and cuffs.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
NOVELTY WOODEN FOR COATS
Distinct Emphasis Placed on Sport
Idea; Fancy Backs Much IN Evil
denee; Many PIaids.

Novelties in cOatings constitute a
large proportion of the fall wOolens,
as shown this far. and in all the lines
which include fancy cloths there is a
distinct emphasis on the sport idea.
Fancy backs, whether they are plaid
block checked. or solid, are much In
evidence. and for tOpcOats and sport
canes there are the largest Of plaids,
I'm black and white. Chinchillas
are shown plain, with plaids, and with
fancy backs.
Extensive use is made Of nub ef-
fects. both in the plain cloths and In
the rather neutral grounds Of the
plaids. The pile fabrics are repre-
sented in great numbers, and there
are some coatings with very smooth
lustrOus surfaces.
Kasha appears again for suits. amid
a number Of novel French fabrics,
which include interesting adaptations
Of perlIaine. Chinchilla in suiting
weight is a domestic offering, and
both the brnadclOths and pOiret twills
are represented in new numbers.
In the tweeds there are very attrac-
tive color offerings for fall. and We
IOurs have strong representation In
familiar and in new numbers. Many
of the effects Of the woven cloths are
reproduced in the knitted. and those
with the feecy surfaces particularly
are almost indistinguishable.
No cOIOrs stand out very prominent
ly. and. as II is to be expected. most
of the new cOlOrs are evolved In the
ed. brown and gray ranges.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
RECENT DEATHS AMONG THE
coLoRED PEOPLE RESID-
ING IN CHICAGO

Clara Hughes, 90, 272O Lake St.
Thomas Fielder, 81, 37s7 Eden St.
James Cleveland, 20. $3.50 State St.
Anna Jones. "A, 344l Dearborn St.
Winnie Washington, Is. 3S4l Rhodes
Ave.
Beulah Shaw, "a. ASP Bowen Ave.
Pearl Clark. 81, 1920 Hastings St
Kate Anderson, %, 200 Indiana
Ave.
James Turner, 20. 1927 s. Robey ST
Edward Rush, 50, 2O27 Austin Ave.
Anna Robinson, %, 1858 Indiana
Ave.
Abraham Brown, a, Argo, I'll.
VIM. Richardson, ?, 2SOS s. Park
Ave.
Daniel Horton, 80. 1923 Grand Blvd.
Jones Brevard. 81. 1867 LaSalle ST.
Frank Nichol, 49. z33 E. 37th St.
Lulu Wilson, 81, SO w. 35th St.
Jessie Carpenter. 8, $3.50 Federal St.
Henry Travis, ?, 1901 Rhodes Ave.
Edgar Lucas, 81. 1892 Elmwood
Ave.
Laura Phagen, lG, 22l9 Walnut St.
Anderson Jackson, 40. 6OO4 Wabash
Ave
Mary Monroe, 80, $3.50 Giles Ave.
Roberta Sublett, Is. 32IS Dearborn
ST.
Anna Prather, Al, 3O4 E. 3lst St.
Lula Thomas. 81, 1902 LaSalle St.
Ernest Parker, IS. 24l n. Wood St.
James Fitton, IS, 3OOS Cottage
Grove Ave.
Henry Lewis, a, $50 5th Ave, Chi
cago Heights, Ill.
Betty Beard, 80, 8 w. Path St.
John Davis, 81, 6O2O S. Racine Ave.
Anna Williams, 81, 1903 Federal St.
Ellis Wilcher, %, 1920 Federal St.
VIM. Goubil, IS, 1882 Indiana Ave.
Joseph Watley, 20. 4Ol9 Federal St.
Thomas Jackson, "a, 5l7 E. Sind St.
Bertha Hayes, ~, 32O2 State St.
Jessie Conrad, SO. 3342 Prairie Ave.
Ulysses Mack, 30. 3755 Elmwood
Ave.
Mary Mortez, %. Lake Villa, III.
Milons Rex, 50, 34l3 Dearborn St.
Isador E. Liwas, 20, ITO State St.
lie Roy Simpkins, %, 10 s. Saith St
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
SIMPLE LINES FOR DRESSES
Little Froek That Features smoeking
at the Waist and Yoke APP
peals to All.

The youthful frOck, developed on
lines Of simplicity, gives marked
prominence to novelty Fabrics as a
rule. Both novel and wearable ma
terials-thOse that will appeal TO
mother" from the standpoint of
variability and to the child on account
Of their attractiveness-are seen in a
simple little frOck that features smOck-
ing at the waist and yoke from which.
the fullness OF the dress is derived
One New York firm has had particu-
lar success with imported wolfe this
season, wolfe so sheer and silky as TO
closely ally il with geOrgette. Bright
cOlOrings, such as orange, rose and
green. are among the favored shades
while pale yellow and white assume
a handmade appearance with their
tuckings and frillings to enbellish the
skirt. neck and sleeves.
Marvel silk, one Of the pOngee fam
fly, though with more advantages in
the way OF being immune to water
spots, has found a ready market, II
Is stated. and Is very comfortable for
the afternoons in the little shocked
effect done with bright silk floss
stitching. In a natural cOlOring or dyed
shades a choice can be made.
For ready turnover, the frOck OF rat
inc has proved particularly success
full. printed in large block designs Of
gingham eOlOrings Circular lines,
rather than fullness, are well suited
to this dress. on account OF the weight
Of the fabric. Another little style,
much in favor. Is a tissue Bingham. a
material Of gingham stimulation, but
not Of finer weave.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
cI,y on cIviIlzation's outukirts.

On the upper ParanA liver, which
separates Paraguay from Argentina,
is q town called POsadas. This" says
a traveller, is the last outpost Of civil
liZatiOn on the Alto Parana. face to
face with primitive forest, wild Indi-
ans, the unexplOred center of South
America, and yet II is reached by a
brOad-gauge railroad, has a fine mod
ern $4,000 hotel. three big depart.
ment stores and the best hospital in
northern Argentina" Round about
are great mate plantations and old
Jesuit ruins-New York Evening Post.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
SMART RIBBON BOWS ON HATS
Attractive Trimming; Black
Shapes Preferred.

Wide ribbon made into loops and
ends or tied in very smart bows Of
good size, is making the trimming for
many OF the hats shown for immedi-
ate wear. Black shapes particularly
show the preference for the bow trim
and models Of hair, mallnes braid and.
of course. milan, are used for this pur-
pose.
In using these wide ribbons II Is no
ticed that the hanging end Is still EN-
plOyed, in some cases the ribbon
reaching almost to the waistline at
the side. Many Of the large shapes
in poke effect that have the new cut
on back brim, employ the ribbon to
al in this space with a long soft bow
reaching far out on each side. In
other cases, when a shape Is raised
slightly at the back, the ribbon loop
or bow may be placed on the under
side Of the brim well toward the back.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
MAZE OF MoDISH FOOTWEAR
srsst Array Of New Styles for Wom-
en- of All Ages and for Various
OeeasioDs.

For the last two years footwear has
Played an increasingly prominent role
Ia the mode, growing ever more elab-
crate until the present season discov-
ers in every shop such a multiplicity
Of trimmings and such unusual COM
binations Of cOlOrs and materials that
the woman Of taste and caution finds
herself forced to watch her step lest
she lose he way in this elaborate
maze.
For example, she now selects>as a
walking shoe for town wear either an
entirely plain or simply trimmed OK
ford shoe with a medium heel, or the
slightly more elaborate type Of shoe
a low street shoe OF black patent
leather and gray suede, with elastic
Inserts and high patent leather Span
ISL heels. Another walking shoe of
the more conservative type is an OK
ford Of suede and patent leather with
a broad low, suede-cOyered heel.
HAels Of varied types are seen among
RE street shoes, including the leather
t5E heel, very broad and low, the
familiar Cuban heel, and finally the
s'lnder Spanish heel, which is
IEsCtion lower than the French heel.
FOR the afternoon, simple slippers
suede or patent leather with steel
ckles are the fayOrites Of the wOm-
who seeks distinction in dress, and
~ bid fair to displace the ubiquitous
strapped sandal. These slippers OF
distinction seek the softer tones Of
suede TO harmonic with frOcks Of
the fashionable cOlOrs. Gray, beige
and black are set of with steel
buckles, while brown suede is com
bined with a buckle Of bronzed steel.
Black patent leather is extremely
smart for the afternoon, particularly
when II is simply made and set OF
With a colonial buckle. or an Orna-
ment Of cut-steel beading. The slip
per that is worn for formal afternoon
occasions is invariably accompanied
by the high, slender French heel.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
FLOWERS FOR DANCE DRESS
millinery Department Of Any Store
Will Afford Necessary Posies
for Decoration.

Any clever girl can make herself
simple dance frOck, especially when
she may 90 into the millinery depart
ment Of the store and buy the trim
ming for it ali ready TO put on. A
'oEely fiower-trimmed little frOck was
shown in a pale yellow geOrgette.
trimmed with artificial bachelor but
tons in a darker yellow, sewed around
he edge Of the skirt and armhOles and
clusters Of three dOtting the surface
o. the frOck all over A narrow black
velvet ribbon girdled the waist. being
hed in short loop and long end and
bow at the side back. while two
STEAMERS Of the ribbon extended down
ether side, forming a sort Of panel
effect.
The color and flower scheme could
ee varied in innumerable ways. Pale
lavender georgette might be dotted
with purple viOlets and purple velvet
ribbon used for girdle and panels vel
low would be good with the violet
Vim, or a pale pink might be trimmed
with deeper pink Roses and so on.
Using the flowers as a border for the
skirt Is particularly effective.
A velvet or metal ribbon bandeau
matching the trimming Of the frock
may be worn in the hair with very
good effect. and the straight bands Of
ribbon or metal cloth are favOrites
With girls who have hohbad halr-and
Their number Is said to be Increasing
A lovely color scheme could be
worked out for q wedding with tlie
bridesmaids frocks fiower-trimmed In
this fashion. fresh flowers Of the same
Kind to be carried by the girls
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Hat trimmings.

Wool embroidery continues to be
the vogue. A black hat Of rather large
brim was decorated with a life-slze
parrot In gay eOlOrs II was embroid-
cred on the left side OF the crown to
partly decorate both crown and hrim-
Just simple tassels are seen on many
sport hats. A tassel Of white wool Is
allowed TO fan OF the left side Of the
brim Of bright red OF green straw.
White wool grapes decorate SIX pr
straw hats Of the dat, blOasy faia
Style-
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
New Harmony IN Poetry.

In the sweet chorus of modern po-
etry one may hear q strange new har-
mony. 1t is the life Of cur ime'
evoking its own music; cOnstrainlng
the poetic spirit to utter its Owa mes
sage. The peculiar beauty Of the CON
temporary poetry, with It's fresh and
varied charm, grows from that; and
In that, too, its vitality is assured. It's
art has the deep sanction Of loyalty;
its loyalty draws inspiration from the
living source.-Mary C. Sturgeon
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
GRAY Umbrellas.

In contrast with the bright-hued UNI
brellas Of the moment Is a new de-
nure umbrella in fashionable gray
tones. The cover Is Of dove gray silk
and the handle Is Of gray bakelite
hand-etched In black and white.
Frame, tips and ferrule are Of silver.
Nothing could be daintier or more
elegant than this siIver-trimmed gray
SILK umbrella. and because Of Its very
quIetness Of tone 1t Is a conspicuous
asset Of the costume on a rainy day.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

Sounds Travel Farthest In Darkness.
Sounds can generally be heard much
farther by night than oy day; some
times ten or even twenty times as far
One reason IL that the air at night
contains. as a rule, few eddies and
other local disturbances, such as break
up the sound waves by day. More
over, on calm. clear nights the verti-
cal Distribution OF temperature near
the earth Is often the reverse Of that
occurring By day. and has the effect
Of bending the sound waves downward
instead Of upward.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Growth Of Cork Trees.

Upwards of 50 per cent Of the
worlds cork Is produced in Spain and
Portugal. The finest is grown in
various parts Of the provinces Of Sc
vile, BadajOz, Cadiz. Huelya, Bar
celOna and Salamanca. The age Of
maturity varies in different parts Of
the same tree. From eight to nine
years Is required b. the trunk, from
ten TO eleven years for the first
branches and from eleven to twelve
years for the second branches.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
storino Fun

Furs should be wen whipped and
beaten freed from an dust and lint
before storing. II Inadvertently q
moth has been allowed to enter and
male its nest. combing with coarse.
Iope-toothed comb win generally dis
ledge II. Lay the furs In a warm
brIght place for a while. then wrap
N newspaper and sprinkle well win
black pepper. eamphor or tobacco ttne
first preferred). and put them IN q
cedar chest If you have one; II not
nut them in q cool. dark closet or 9TH
er place where the moths will not
penetrate
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

seen on one white frOck consists Of
rows of iridescent bubbles. AS the
dress is dead white and the trimming
shiny the contrast is effective.
Linen tapes have been widely taken
up by dreSsmakers and milliners, but
their use was confined to wash dresses
and country hats until one clever de-
signer conceived the idea of making
a Iacework Of fine linen tape and US
ing it as a collar or sleeve trimming
on dark silk dresses.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

like very much the society Of
wOOdmen. I don't know any
men who are so complete masters
Of their business and Of the secluded
but delicious world in which they
live. They are healthy, their language
Is picturesque; they live in the air
and Nature whispers to them many
Of her secrets. A forest Is like the
ocean. monOtonOus only to the IgnOr-
ant.-DiSraeIl
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Eu.n Rstt.r man -.

L Prague physician says he has
made a discovery that wiz send head
colds TO the discard This win Ne
lease the word ~Coryza, which we
have always thought would make q
lovely name for a girL-BOston Tran
s..rinf.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Not All g. Raa

Unusually candid Is an advertising
merchant In Lennox. S. d. He says:
-We don't claim that other people
are cheats and liars. We don't judge
everybody else By ourselres"-Bos-
ton Transcript.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
a Rad Man,a eood rhounht.

To enjoy a thing exclusively is com
monty TO exclude ones self from the
true enjoyment Of il. Said Byron:
Those who Joy would win must share
4; happiness was born a tEIn.--BOs-
ton Transcript.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Tha bad 20 Heaven.

"Dey ain no direct road z heaven"
said Charcoal Eph. mOOdIly. Hit
may look lax hit. but yuh got e so
round a heap O. crap games whar de
deacons done stopped { rest--BIeh-
mOnd Times-Dispatch.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

Hand-embroldered sheer white main
sock is made into lovely nightgowns
Tueks. masses Of them. are popular
IN lingerie, supplanting the gathers
OF former years. They launde- well
although a def hand Is required for
the sct.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
MAY VISIT CITY

Dr. John NJ. Candy. pres, The V.
n. & |. |. Petersburg, Va, may visit
the city while en- route from the In
ternational Sunday School Convention
at Kansas City, Mo.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
MOVED

Harvest Baptist Church of which
Rev. L. Bodie is pastor, has moved
from Wright's Hall, 44th and State
Sts., to Asp S. State ST.. where ser
vices are being conducted regularly.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
uneIe Ebsn.

Oars one thing rs got to say Ia IA
vor Of ghosts said Uncle Eben. Il
newer yit heard o one hittin' a lonely
traveller over de head an takin' his
watch an pockefboak.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

A rude fellow remarks that most
AZ our society girls affections seem 70
be set either On a noodle, Doodle OF
Doodle.-Boston Transcript
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
{ Frsquentlr 3 ! e. worIa.

u Frequently u a Sad WoFId.
A suspicious woman never feels
quite convinced that all Is right amer
she has found a pink ribbon in the
car her husband had out the night
before.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17
Quickly Gone

"Tn this life nothing Is permaneEs
but change" remarks a philosopher.
Ours Is very feeting.-Boston Tran
script
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

An apron and bonnet covered with
howsrs-a eretonne garden outfit
offers a summary touch that will in
tsrsst many women seeking some
hing different.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

The feature Of this charming out
n, worn BY a popular film faVorite, is
the pointed oveFbIouse. Note the but
tons under the arm.
The broad ax., 1922-06-17

CHARLES E. STUMP.
White Pine news. [volume] (East Ely, Nev.) 1920-1923, 1922-05-21
TRAFFIC CENSUS OF TRUCKS
Information as to Speed and SIZE Of
Average Vehicle Obtained in
New England.

How large Is the average truck and
how fast does II travelf This question
and others Of interest to truck owners
and users Of the highways are an
swered by information obtained in a
recent traffic census taken by the bu-
reau OF public roads, United States
Department of Agriculture, on 9Ie of
the most travelled highways in New
England. The census dlscloses that
40 per cent OF the trucks were of ! ton
capacity or less; 80 per cen between
] and 21 tons; 3 per cent between
pa and 5 tons and that less than 2
per cent of the trucks were of more
than 8 tons capacity.
On n level stretch Of road, over
which the speed Of motor vehicles
was timed, it was found that more
trucks travelled at a speed OF 20 miles
an hour than al any other rate. Thir-
ty-seven per cent travelled 20 miles
an hour or faster. One truck, whose
driver said he was in a hurry "a get
there, was found 10 be travelling at a
speed of 45 miles an hour.
White Pine news. [volume] (East Ely, Nev.) 1920-1923, 1922-05-21
GOOD
HIGHWAYS
GRADING AND PAVING ROADS
Average Figures for Whole of United
States Given Out by Bureau of
Public Roads.

prepared by the United states Department
Of Agrfcuifure.1
What part of the cost Of a read goes
into grading and structures that are
more or less permanent, and what part
goes into the paving. which may
eventually wear out7
This question Is answered fully by
statistics complied by the bureau OF
public roads Of the United States De
partment of Agriculture on 1850 com
pleted federal-aid roads. involving a.
go miles of road. at a total cost of
S1l2, 100000. OF the total cost, 81 per
cent went into grading. IA per cent
into structure. g. per cent Into paw
ing. and 3 per cent for engineering.
These are the average figures for the
whole of the United States, but there
10 considerable variation in different
sections.
In the Middle Atlantic states.
where grading is not heavy and paving
must be built for heavy traffic. the
cost Of the paving rises 10 20 per cent
and the grading and structures fall to
Is per cent and 3 per cent. respective
ly.
In The Mountain states the prob
en- is very different. much Of the
work being new construction with
'ieavs grading. aud the highest type