The New York herald., 1922-07-09
Many of the Newest Materials
Borrow Patterns From
India or France.

Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.
HIS season many of the newest |
fabrics borrow their patterns
4 either from the original India
prints or from the hand blocked linens
made in the little French village Of
Jouy, and the toiles de Jouy them
selves, which have remained among
the important fabrics Of France, play
a considerable role in smart costumes.
In the older days the toiles de
Jouy had as important part in deco
many a Parisienne OF to-day cherishes
the memory of room OF her child
hoods day, perhaps in a grand
mothers country home, where she
awoke to see the floods of morning
sunshine falling on hangings of clear
toned linens across which marvellous
birds spread gorgeous wings among
flowers as fresh as If they had just
been gathered in the garden. She re-
members. perhaps. that in that an
cestral house rooms were designated
as "the room of the doves" "the Don
Quixo.e room," or the room of the
loves" To-day these familiar motifs
are found in bits OF decoration on
serge frock or a silk cape.
1o ~ tni1a
de Jouy a trimming both for tailleurs
and for hot weather frocks, in which it
is often combined with heavy tulle
matching the background of the linen. 1t
IS gay, pretty, and of a charming nov
city. affording a pleasant variation from
the too familiar embroideries. 1t is not
used N large masses but in decorative
bits at the bottom of a Jacket to make
n basque, to trim a sleeve, OF to make
the top of a soft low girdle. Since the
fabric Is hardly supple enough for the
frocks Of the present mode II Is COM
bined with panels of tulle which, as the
skirt sways, reveals a foundation skirt
OF blue or mauve silk. a darker tone Of
the color OF some flower In the pattern
of the toile de Jouy.
Sometimes a frock of crepon with
large sleeves and full skirt has flat
front panel OF toile de Jouy. which forms
a collar turned well back from the
neck Again. a straight long wasted
blouse of lowered linen is worn with
skirt of plain crepon In lighter or
darker color The daintiest Of frocks
for children are made by cutting out
motifs of toile de Jouy and applying
them to sheer pleated batiste. while long
capes, whether for children or their
elders, combine these gay printed linens
with wool fabrics
Quaint. indeed, is this combination of
old and new. which the Parisienne may
devise by opening the trunks of her
storerooms and cutting, not without
touch of sadness the motifs from the
brilliant lengths of her old toiles de
Jouy.
In the summer mode itself there Is
great variety. When the Viscount de
Launay wrote under the date of jan
uary 10. 1S47. ITO write pamphlets on
the fashions bf to-day a man would
need the wit of Monsieur de Talleyrand
and the profundity of a Machiavelli it
is all tricks and deceit; he did not
suspect that we might be saying the
same thing In July, 1922.
Dyed laces are much used on sum-
mer frocks combined with organdie for
afternoon wear. while certain models
even use n very supple silver lace which
is specially charming on frock OF cit-
ron yellow marquisette where it falls
in panels at the side. Wide ribbons are
knotted into a girdle at the normal
waistline. or a band of the fabric en-
broidered with beads is worn low on
the hips and fastened with a buckle
of strass or a real jewel set on a cock
ade of black velvet. II Is bizarre idea
this of wearing real Jewels or twist
of diamonds with a wash frock. But II
is true, Of course. that a wash frock
has come to be more or less a figure
OF speech.
Naturally. one does not send to the
lnundress OF some summer watering
place frocks which cost q small for
tune by reason OF the magnilcence of
the foundation over which they are
worn. In some of these frocks. however
the outer frock OF organdle or muslin
may be detached from its foundation.
To was noted last winter that lingerie
was becoming more and more nearly
invisible in the flmincss OF texture.
Chantilly lace continues to play an i'm
portant part there, In spite Of the light
ness In summer fabrics. This lightness
OF the underwear Is the more daring
since all these fabrics, whether of silk
or silver lame. are very light and leave
the silhouette distinctly perceptible
through them.
Black Is most becoming TO the woman
of years and weight. and I'm this after
noon gown of crepe de chine the cape,
which hangs below the waistline. Will
conceal the lines OF a back no longer
slender. In Paris these capes enjoy
an extraordinary success. rivalng the
mort Jackets which differ In color and
fabric from the frocks with which they
are worn (6646). A crisp organdie froc<
for sutry summer afternoons at home
or az the country club Is made In one
OF the seasons most delightful colors.
citron yellow. and, combined with lark
spur blue grosgrain ribbon and dainty
fluted frills. 1t makes a charming ad-
dition 10 ones wardrobe (6646.)