davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1922-05-07
what will stand the most washing
with6ut deterioration.

what will stand the most washing
without detefi6fation.
ThS white blouse is costly in the
6hd, but our Weather demands some
thing Of the kind. It is now offered
% / jumper. Or In the old established
manner that tuehs In Under the skirt.
OFTEN the ntw French knitted Jumper.
WidSiy eItn Sver neck and chest, is
placed Ab6ve the tuck-in blouse as
Z sweater. The collar rolls high. It
10 not IN inSiGnifeant affair. It in
tsnd1 u attract attention to itself
II does not show anything OF the meek
in the back. yet It does not hug 1t in
ths harsh ana awkward manner OF
the traditional coat collar. The lat
Ter Is 4 tiyint line to all but the fiat
shouldered. ana ih.chested. Under
it. in the careless way Of Bohemia.
ther6 IL 4 wide and flowing cravat
of rtbbon Or piece satin knotted at
the erd Of the collar ana hanging
to the knees sometimes; at least to
the waist. II not the cravat. then a
iiutsd ffiil; after the manner OF the
eighteenth century.
Dufint tie early postwar period
all smart Paris went to the races Ia
severe taii6red suits. mostly Of gray
ana black pin-sttiped flannel with q
stfin6 areuid the middle. Then came
the era 6f the Slack crepe Dc chine
ffock xith pearls, ana again pearls,
until women looked like indian mars
janeSS. When the new season broke
In March smart Paris went to the
Evening star., 1922-05-07

that the work Is delicately done, a
kind of hoar-frost tracery whose fra
gility never accentuates its existence.
Borders of beading are good. pro-
viding they are well done and sturdi-
ly stitched. Otherwise q woman finds
herself disgustedly picking UP strands
OF loose beads from chair and carpet.
She saves the first few strands she
loses. hoping to sew them on the
frock the next day, but she soon re-
signs herself to the bare spaces their
disappearance leaves on the fabric
and trusts that the public has not
keen or accusing eyes.
1t is not in ornamentation Of frocks.
however. that the majority Of women
are interested when the warm
weather makes one throw the worsted
frock into the discard. It is in the
garments that are accessories to the
gown or suit, so when those who
make fashions decided that it was
time to reinstate the blouse that goes
to the washtub, women over the
country leaped to the idea like spring
trout to bait.
|, France reinstated the lingerie
blouse alongside the knitted jumper
blouse and the fanciful one Of col-
Evening star., 1922-05-07

races In cloth suits with separate
blouses or one-piece cloth frocks
with jumper jackets. fancifuI and
costly. that served as protective eovs
erings.
Dark blue was returned to first
fashion. because it was worn by the
loveliest mannequin of them all. Mile.
Hebe of the English house Of Capt.
Molyneux. She was as demurely
frocked as though the world had never
thought Of fantastic fashions. Her
white otgandy collars and cuffs fiar-
ing from q dark blue serge suit made
every one stare. Here, they said, is
sensation. And Paris dearly loves q
sensation. be 1t ever SO demure.
** **
DEIGE cloth was also kept in the
u foreground in the races. and one
sfnart suit Of IL showed that the new
fashion sponsors tucks, fine tucks and
plenty Of them. crinkling the entire
surface of the fabric. You know
why, don't you? Because the wizard
weaver, Rodier, has made crinkled
surfaces the fashion; the smart ma
terials look as though sun and time
had cracked them into . thousand
crevfces. Fine tueks. lavishly and
frantically thrown over the surface,
therefore, resemble crinkles and
cracks and blisters.
The trick keeps one in the fash
ION, but It Is more costly than buy
Ing the Rodier fabrics.
Evening star., 1922-05-07

PicknicRinF days viii soon bs here
again. A great convenience for such
parties are tfisse handy picnic cases.
Cut pieces 81 black oilcioth twice the
length Of the piece OF silver to 90
into 1t, plus two or three inches fof
the har. Tie width ST tie stri1 viii
depend upon ths number u foses.
spoSns, knives. etc, tliat ars IL rs
placed Into saeh case: Aftsr ySti hass
cut the pieces the correct size. print
on them with enamel or paint, OF sffi-
broidef with thread, the iaamsS st tfiS
utensils each ii ID contain. Overland
or buttonhole the edges together to
form the bags, and to keep the nap
piEHi ffSyiiiS e16ss with Z siiap
fastener. II desired. 1 little ASfai
decoration, Is indicated. viii add much
e. the bsaIty 81 thssS picnic sssss.
They make nice gifts to mStorists.
&, kfYSSffSRs. faSS 80 = a.
Evening star., 1922-05-07

nanship; the American merchants I'M
sisted that this was the last word OF
Paris on fashionable spring cos
tufnery. SO the argument hSs wa9ed
without ceasihg throughout tile first
months Of the warm season. The
sensibls folk did Whist they were
pleased to do. If they disliked beaded
frocks. they ignored them: II they
liked them, they bought and wore
them. They were easy to get. No one
needed to pine for them.
One of the most popular evening
frocks Of the early season which
appears in several colors, including
black, has straight lines Of slistenfhs
white crystal beads placed so close
together that the entire surfacS Of
the fabric takes on luster and charac-
ter. This ornamentatioh is the only
thing that attempts to make the
frock conspicuous, as the cheniise
lines of it are exceedingly simple and
commonplace. ODD. instft 1t, how Z
certain gown in each season will
catch the public ana suddenly appear
on several hundfed persons within the
week. The box coat suit st Lanvin.
with the embroidered sleeves, IL an
other favorite of the early sbfins that
has as many rSproduetions as the
crazy mirrors OF Coney Island. Lovely
things are forsaksn. A few things
are run into the groufid.
It is not fir to beading; however, to
dismiss it without differentiating one
type from another. There are evening
gowns. especially those iii white
which have elaborate and skillful
beading that coptributes-.sa-- -larEe
Evening star., 1922-05-07

the two. So prevalent we're suits that
Il was quite evident the white lin.
gsris blouse not only would. but had.
returned to fashion. The Differences
between 1t as It was and AZ it is lies
In The flowing cravat that often drops
to sha waist: this IL Of black satin, as
= rule. but again It IL in French blue,
appas green, mauve, purple. Sray.
Ribbon with a, picot edge 10 preferred.
Dsast fail to impress that incident
uDea the American public.
-A6es Of short jackets were worn.
OAs sees them In town as well - At
ths races. Unusually long skirts are
universal, sweeping the ankles. Some
separate capes there are. but not as
many as for the two past seasons.
Many Of the smart women. and man
nequins who represent smart houses.
are wearing a, short jumper Jacket
Of whiterermine. 1t Is quite the thing.
It 10 often. open down the front to
show the frock itself, not a blouse.
There is another sensational. jump
er Jacket, of beige crepe, which is not
opened in front. but fastened to the
neck. 1t has deep shoulder yoke.
which is a prevalent feature In all
sorts and conditions Of gowns. It is
frightened at the hips with a broad
band. The trimming is of monkey
fringe, Of which Paris women never
tire. This jumper jacket Is worn with
. ssparate skirt of deep blue kasha.
It Is quite evident, also. that the
FYench are not weary Of beige, for
tAey are embarking on a sea of 1t
this spring with the happiness they
gave to it the frst season. One of
the best suits worn about town, which
means in the Bois in the morning. at
the races in the afternoon and shop
ping at noon, Is Of beige cloth en-
tire1y covered with fine tucks going
across the fabric. The skirt touches
the ankles, there is a diversity of. line
at the, sides, the jumper jacket has a
rolling collar and :revers of the plain
cloth, 4 narrow belt. long sleeves, and
the white lingerie blouse beneath has
a most pretentious frill cascadins
down the front.
"The cape Jacket is. smart. much
smarter than the freck with the sep
arate cape. There 10 8 good and con-
spicuous one going the rounds Of the
gay life here which Is of black crepe
with a formal decoration. border Of
white beaded embroidery. The frock
10 slim in silhouette, although the
skirt 10 amazingly full and long. The
cuirass Jacket Is fastened In front
and hAs high collar-so many frocks
have this, even in this warm spring;
Evening star., 1922-05-07
EFFICIENT HOUSEKEEPING
BY laura KmKMAN.

but is an Improvement: Pour the
scaided milk over the corn meal and
tapioca and cook these ingredients
in the top Of a double boiler over
briskly boiling water for ten min
utes. Add the butter, salt. raisins,
molasses ana apple, mix well and
turn this into a baking dish. Then
pour the cup Of cold milk over all
and do not stir. Bake very slowly
for about two hours. Serve with
cream or simply plain. This is very
delicious:
Filled Cookies.--Cream together
one cup Of eranulated sugar and one
half cup Of shortening. Add the yolk
Of one egg. one-half cup Of sweet
milk, three and one-half cups Of flour
mixed and siftsd with one teaspoon
Of baking powder, one teaspoon Of
vanilla, and Fold in the stiffiy beaten
egg white. Roll out rather thin and
cut with cookie cutter. Put two
st. these uncooked, discs together in
the CREASED baking pan with the fol-
lowing filling between them: Filling.
Cook together in saucepan one
cup Of chopped seediess raisins, ohe-
half cup Of granuiated sugar, one
halt cup Of water and one teaspoon
of flour. Stir constantly till thick.
Mountain Dew Pudding.-scald one
pint Of sweet milk. Add to the milk
o1lS tablespoon Of butter. and when
ths butter is melted pour the milk
over sithef three large. or four small
spit tinsweetened crackers. Now
Beat the yolks Of two eggs and add to
them ons-half cup Of granulated
sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla
Add this mixture to the cracker mix
ture and turn ali into baking dish
Bake in . quick oven for orie-haif
hour. then spread over the pudding
q merfngue made OF the two egg
whites beaten stiff WITH one-half cur
of sugar addsd to them; slip the dish
back Tito sthe oven for the mefingue
t6 Brown. (ro rary this puddiils
either cocUanut or chocolate may be
addsd.J Tkis ,seifI - Found 4 'p6Bh-
hi SuddinS ID tHs home ,table.
Evening star., 1922-05-07
Put on Your pedometer.

fhis is the time bf all the year
when every one who is not an in
valid and who does wish to enjoy
health should get his minimum daily
dose Of oxygen, which may be set
at two miles on, the hoof tres in diem,
or, If you prefer. or If you can't un-
derstand medical Latin, six miles in
one. dose at any time in the day or
night, though preferably while the
sun Is UP.
4 pedometer costs trifis and af-
fords q certain degree Of interest in
measuring OF distances. 1t also does
tend to stimulate walking, just for
the childish pleasure Of watching the
thing work. BY ali means add a
psd0meter to your health armament
taffum-it Is 4 durii sight more eco
nomical to indulge in such a play
thing than it is to 80 to the movies
or buy some claptrap magazine. The
purchase of q pedometer. is a matter
Ing all our health propaganda and
all the efforts to teach health in
schools there is no getting around
the fact that the great majority Of
people in the country are still prac;
ticsiiy impervious to considefa tions
Of health, though they are Oily. too
eager to investigate symptoms. dis
eases ana remedies. Such popular in
terest as finds tangible expression is
cefitered almost exclusively ON the
morbid side, n6t on the wholesome OF
cheerful side. The Yankee is still
the same gloomy pessimist that Dicks
eng painted him in Martin ChUi5lewit.
To6 much almanac. reckon.
c6mpare the way the average NOR
txis spends money for nostrums. me-
daSinal and verbal. which appeal with
such evs-whefminS force to his Gre
duiity, with his nisgardhness and
downright seif-denial in the matter
Of his Swn sleeping equipment, for
instance. Thousands Of people suffer
from restless nights, backaches-l
hafs to list symptoms-because OF
.thsir miserable sleeping arrange
meats. and people. too. who can and
do afIord very good clothes and all
sorts Of uiiessSntial, or actually harm
full Iuxuriss. This Is just one illus
tration of popular disinterest III tie
wholesome sfde st health. Ish.t ii
absurd 10 think Of going to bed every
nitit, to take punishment; whereas
f6Y i reasonable Investment. wholly
Within the individuil's hfsaIs. Hitting
~ liz might be made q yefitabie Joy :
~ & #H r
Evening star., 1922-05-07
Rare Recipes. You Should Have.

A splendid h6usekeeper I know has
generously copied the following from
her st6ck of rars Old recipes. so that
my column readers may have them:
Candy CakS.-Whitss of three
eggs, ohe cub granulatsd sugar, one
half cup butter. one-half cup sweet
milk, Siie.Ralf teaspoon soda, one tea
spoon cream Of tartar. one and ons-half
eaps II flour ana one teaspoon lemon ex-
tract. crsarn the butter and sugar to-
SSthef, add tie milk. then the hour
which has been mixed and siftsd with
the soda ina efsln1 II tartar. ada the
lemon extract, and last fold in the stiffiy
whipped egg whites. Line the pan
with creased paper. having it come
up ovsr tie top of the pan. Bake the
loaf about forty-five minutes In
moderate oven, then, without remov-
ing the cake from the pan. spread on
top Of Tie hot cake the following
{rostins: Ysii6w Fr6stihs fof Canary
Eake.-stir into the yolks Of three
eSSs Hftssis tablespoons 81 confec-
toner's sugar and flavor with one
half tSasp6on 81 Vanilla and three or
four dropS III almond extract.
Z BsrbarRs aaiaa Dressing. g.-ene
dessert spoon Of granuiated sugar,
one tsbiespoon of 'hour. ens teaspoon
each of salt and mustard, pinch OF
black pepper; mig these ingredients
thoroughly together and put them II
ia tSSI sf 1 doutls boiler over rapid:
IL 6SiIiaS x1txf. thsn add Two well
tsatsn 90 ind stif ven. Aftsi
thSSS ars hot, add one-quartef cup 81
vinegar and cook until as thick az
eustard. Then sdd eight tablespoons
s. sSi6d 0ii and heat with an egs
sS1tSr to6 the hrs) Until well mixed
| concord indian Pudding. - Five
tail esp6Sds Of minute" tapioca, four
tsSisspooiis 81 sSfn meal. thfes table-
S56SSs 81 battsr. -f6urths cup o.
5,SisSSsS. four ciiDs sG1id6d swee,
iHsir. 6Hs sup e6ld sxsst iiilk 4 bfieh
81 ait. one cup Of ssedIsss raisina
Sad Si,S SiiS 81 Sp1lS cut ID iRt6 small
fiSSS6 tsas s1tae NAY So istt out
Evening star., 1922-05-07

measure cf distinction ana keeps the
gown from looking as though IT were
made up by the hundreds by fast ma
cllinery.
+ 4
THE frocks that hava the heavy
downward strokes Of crystals on
somber background. the popular
ones. retain an appearance Of we'll
being. But the vasx variety of cheap
~ made colored crepe frocks with
wide bands Of white crystals running
across the figure are in the ranks of
the things we had possibly better
avoid, not only because they are COM
fnohplace, but also they are Perish
able.
When the high priced dressmakers
Offer gowns with beading ons sees
Evening star., 1922-05-07

SO whenever. word comes frsm Paris
that any kind of costume; is beaded
those who like beads or have them to
sell use 1t as an argument for the sale
Of gowns that are covered with this
most ancient and constantly revived
form Of characterization.
The season that opened here in
March for Easter was prolific in bead
ed clothes. The shops offered every
outside garment with lines or curves
or designs done in thin or thick beads.
Paris said that only the American
buyers wanted this kind of work.
Evening star., 1922-05-07
Lingerie Blouse Must Return Is Decree Of the Fasl

/ the flowing cape In placed into the
armholes at the shoulder line, then
fiings itself away in order to show
sleeves which appear to be, entirely
Of white crepe embroidered in black
beads. They are wide and wrist
length.
''The introduction of the girlish
jumper Jacket and the straight, high
collar are two features Of first i'm
portance. No keen observer escapes
them."
+ ~
MO one over here seems to be quite
: sure of the prestige Of beading.
Evening star., 1922-05-07
BEAUTY CHATS REnT X fPFa FORBES.

ture- Of the skin. The presence Q.
sugar Of lead can be detected by try
ing It with ammonia. which will turn
it black. -. =.
A good powder is made from vege-
table ingredients. Most powders are
made Of rice or potato starch. often
with powdered .orris root. A most
delightful sweet-scented face powder
can be made at home during the
flower season in the following way:
Gather any fragrant blossoms. cut
OF the stems and bury them in very
finely powdered starch and orris root
in the proportion of three parts
starch to one part orris root. Rose
petals will be very satisfactory to
use as perfume, and violets. which,
should be in abundance now, are just
as delightful. The flowers should b
renewed every twenty-four hours for
d week. by which time the powder
will be most delightfully."- perfumed.
Here is 4 formula for another heai-
ing antiseptic bath powder:
Rice powder, oances; rice starch.
6 ounces; carbonate Of magnesia, )
ounces; bofic acid pulverized. 1h
ounces; powdered orris, / ounce. !,
This IS the powder without the
6erfume: You can add to this twenty
drops Of any, extract. which viii
svapofate. leaving The powder fine
and delightfully."- perfumed. Or you can
add a little sachet powder. enough
to givs II sweet scent.
Miami-The benefit gained from
eating an ounce or two Of raisins
each day would Be 4 small amount 81
iron and il you were underweisss
you would gain through the sugar IN
them, which would be converted into
fatty tissue. :,
v: c.-After the skin has been all
| lowed to get fabby. it will take some
time To make 1T firm, but 1t can be
done BY giving It the proper csf~
/ Use enough cream to keep the skin
soft ana wen aourished and an as
tringent once or twice each week TO
contract the pores snd encourage
hrmnsss. II you could take some
professional treatments II would has
| ten your recovery.
j. ". LII shall be glad to msit
you tie formula for the .sysiash fonid
on .rscsipt u :. .stsnpsd. sdATssted
Envelope. I'm
Evening star., 1922-05-07

ored crepe de chine. Any one Wis
watches closely the straws In the aif
could have foretoId the emphasis that
Paris was to put on the jacket suit
by the costly and varied blouSSS Sic
invented last summer.
with the jumper blouse Of heavy
knitted fabrics until this spring, ana 8s
did not wear white ones at al II We
were fashionable, unless it was for
the open field Of sports. Tits sea86h
we pick UP the idea where France
picked it up last spring. Our shops
offer knitted jumper blotses, the
dressmakers are making MILDLY
blouses in costly fabrics. Slowly We
are awakening to the lure Of TIE
white lingerie blouse. the kind with
the pleated frilI ana the elongated
collar. Pay attention to that newer HIS
at the neck. 1t Is important.
! Paris. via Cannes and Nice. has
adopted the Peter Pan round collar
of the American, which has BEEN L
kind Of uniform with US for several
years, but we are now considering
the long roll collar with affection.
Undoubtedly it is tho newer line for
ali bIousss. The ''bateau" neck IL tn
the second class, beloved though II 81
by the majority.
However, working along the ha6ft-
ual path, the majority will speedily
forget the old for the new. we Do
every thing by the millions. like tie
Chinese, because there are so m2ny
OF us to do It, and the moment We
are, replicas OF each other happinesS
reigns.
AS to this incoming blouse, It II not
only white; although that Is the eot6f
preferred, but it Is striped and cheek:
ed, also family colored over the ~h6i6
surface. Mauve and Nat red. rasp.
berry pink and fog fray ars e6l6fs
chosen. Thers i4SfnS tucking. ais6
| openw 6fk, but no embroidery. Witt
surfaces are untouched with applfSd
pieces 81 color: II color varsity
there is, It must be woven in ths
material as 4 design.
Fabrics Of sturdy tSfturs ana 4
tendency, to stiffness when washed.
ike linen or pique. are not advisabls:
The fule f6r s0ft and cltnSins tSx.
tutss and movement f6lds GOOD t6f
the summer The tfixl 81 crisp Xx6-
rics with hoops and fafthinSaiei
went no furthsr thaii tho ffinEes 6t
fashion. II never pshstfatsd fIfthef
inland th&t th6 ffst line Of dStehSe,
which consisted Of debut4ntSs fhd
stage folk, with sprinkIiiS 81 thS
curious and sxSiiy LED hdiSi. WY!
BScauss II did not suit otf prSssit
. established mode OF transp6rt4tion
ana activities. it ii foolish to '6uSK
the trafiic'' in life movement ID III
street movement. X.
4ia 4
THERE is somewhat of this undef.
7 lying philossphy 81 going ai6lS
with the current that brtnSs ID tas
wash blouse for hot weather. All ths
theories 0f sfiduflnse 80 into fRt
waste heap when an American jsa1
puts IL ireaf eyer th6 hcfison. No
Evening star., 1922-05-07

AN ERMINE JACKET OF Tl1E
SORT THAT WAS WORN nj sAAIsT
WOMEN AT THE RACES. Fl II
FASTENED ONLY BY THE BEIT.
WHICH Is PLACED AT THE HIPS.
A LARGE WHITE HAT WfTA
WHITE FLOWERS AND 8AAY
LEAVES, AND A LONG BLACK
CREPE FR0CK FINISH f1tE
COSrtJSfE.
Evening star., 1922-05-07
ny ANNE RTTTENH0UsD

w YoULD it interest you to
ANj know that, in . letter
Wv from France written by
= woman who keeDs In
touch with things women wear, which
ID more important, than what the
dressmakers create. she Gays: 'The
spring weather brought oat the world
and his wife to the races and the
crowd was eager and impetuously
curious to see what smart women
wore as in contradistinction to what
had been offered.
Often there is gulf fixed between
Evening star., 1922-05-07
; FacisI Astrineents.

Tie Stilef day gave q formula for
the astringent l6tioii which the great
Sarah Bsrnhardt. is SUPPOSED to use.
It IL made ~ combining =
go Efaihs Sf alum.
liz ouiissS Of almond milk.
s Suficss 6f f0sswster.
The alum Is the astringent part. It
should csftainIy draw up the sagging
muscles Of the skin. Used by itself,
OF course, alum Is much too strong
ana too drying. Therefore, 1t is COM
6inSd with almond milk. which is
n6urisiihg ind L little bleaehing. and
with F6Ss&itsr, which simply acts rs
i convenient Base. This is 80 easy
to make that every woman can have
some IL sic wants.
ThS SfeSt standard astringspt is
tineturS 81 benx6in. A little of the
tiiStdfs iiay Be aAdsd to the cold
watSf III which the faes Is finsed-
sn6uSh % that the water takes on q
milky shade. Or 1t may be mixed
With rosSwattr And the milky. solu-
ton kspt in Z hottie on the bathroom
she'll. to bs patted into the skin after
tie ixcs has BEEN washed and dried.
Another excellent astringent and
bleach ID nade Of starch and water.
/ hsvs 4 friend who lived in Ken
lucky when she was girl and who
SoAs6sssd 6fs 81 the most Beautiful
1T Somilsxions. She had the real
rose pstsi skin, 50 fine ana delicate
that me wes the envy Of every
~6fiSn Vic saW her. SIZE told me
tfSt xHtn lie .@as 1 child she adored
IliyinS III the hot sun. She w&s
suSp6ss6 Il Be protected ~ wide. sun
68nists, 6us Whenever 1t was known
that Shs. thre@ oii her sun bonnet
her skin-Afisia she tafnS fOnie-was
coated with white. starch and cold
water. It was to this treatment. she
says. tlat tEs owes hsr lovely COM
piexion.
sweetsSssatsd Powders.
TS Us So6d i powder must bs cool
In an6 must 15rSis6t the skin against
| tic ddSk 1na ii6SIritikS ef tie stmSi-
phSfS wifk6It 66tff6Sti6E tie NOR
mSi lStiSn 81 tic SiaSdS Many 16w-
6lSa. S6StSi6 isd@Js afSSnic. msfsaf1
iSd biSisatk- Tks: e6RfsniSd la6 6f
lti66s vii SitiiS.ssiy fnta tie stftic-
+