The New York herald., 1922-11-12
BY MAY BIRKHEAD.

PARIS, Oct 2S.
THE opening of a new dressmak-
ing establishment the Maison
Yvonne Davidson, has been OF
interest to Americans in Paris for the
last week, not only because Mrs. Dav-
idson is an American, the wife of Jo
Davidson, the American sculptor,
whose work is well known both in Eu-
rope and America, but because her
models are new and distinctive in style
features. They are entirely within the
note of the season but seem to go
fearlessly a step further in the right
direction, and one very important fea-
ture is that prices are moderate. 1t is
safe TO predict that this new house,
though opening modestly, is on the
road to success and that Mrs. David
son will have q worthwhile place
among the designers.
Her art has been recognized in
America, women of society having been
among her clients. though she has not
been known as a full fledged dress
maker. Upon playing the part of a
mannequin yesterday, in wearing a
uar favorite, she remarked that she
had made eleven dresses of that model
FOR Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney
The frock IN question is unique in
being a case of "now you see it and
now you don't" that she runs the risk
OF becoming known as slight of hand
artist. She entered the room wearing
gray dress, and before one could note
that fact she had changed to green, and
in flash there was third combina-
ton of gray and green by wearing one
dress over the other. 1t was suggested
that a woman who changes her cos
tune five or six times a day could
save time and annoyance by wearing the
whole lot and shedding them one at a
time.
The fabric of which they are made is
new crepe called "Hasouna," and
IS so fine and supple in texture that 1t
permits of several thicknesses without
appearing bulky. At the same time it is
not so thin that it is transparent The
model is made on wonderfully graceful
lines. wrapping around the figure and
fastening with nothing more than a tie
over one hip. There are no hooks and
eyes or buttons and buttonholes, and the
wearer has not even the bother Of Slip
ping 1t on over the head, disarranging
her coiffure.
Details of Trick Gown.
The belt. which is arranged to hold
the two dresses. or the eleven, il one
desires a variety OF combinations, Is the
key to the entire situation and II one
learns to manipulate ii properly the
achievement of the sleight- -of-hand trick
Is simple matter. The neck has di-
rectoire collar across the back AMI the
bodice falls into revers down the front.
the color of the under dress facing
collar and revers Of a contrasting color
in the top dress.
Other models perform other tricks. A
silver cloth wrap trimmed in black
velvet is turned wrong side out and
becomes black velvet trimmed in silver
without appearing TO be a freak. Every
thing seems to happen except the actual
turning of the models upside down and,
with all that. each Is individual and
smart In it's style. Circular lines are
favored in many models. but others are
straight and all are simple.
Women have been busy for the last
week attending social fashion shows to
see new winter models. The Maison
Paul Caret had it's winter opening when
Lady Egerton was present to receive the
guests. The pick of The autumn collec-
tion, which was shown In August, was
itptdttu WIFI lnt or some
twenty or more new winter models. The
models on the whole run to draped ef-
fects. Both afternoon and evening
dresses are gracefully draped on slender
lines and even the 'tailleurs" and velve.
street costumes have something of the
draped effect either in the sleeves or in
some detail, though the silhouette may
remain straight.
n new feature TO many of the brown
cloth street frocks is the front trimming
either In loose panel or circular in
sert in the skirt. A one piece dress os
this sort has a curious skirt which
hangs very straight and plain in the
back. while the front is made full by
this circular insert which runs to a
point at the belt and is very wide and
ripping at the hem. Another frock of
velours de laine has a broad belt OF the
same fabric around the hips and tied
directly in front as a stock. with two
long ends hanging to the hem. and sew
eral have single loose panel hanging
down the front from the belt.
Coat frocks are featured, and a very
convenient type OF dress Is often shown
In combination of a dressy afternoon
or dinner frock and a street costume.