Arizona republican., 1922-04-18
Batik Making Becoming an Art

, without the artists wish il the cloth
is not handled with care to prevent
the wax from breaking. Javanese
dyers use the effect only occasionally
when the design is in colors that do
not harmonize readily, and so used it
is undoubtedly artistic.
For centuries Jayanese natives
have been decorating their clothing
with paipstaking care, using this
method of wax dyeing. The method
has been often described The most
important processes are the waxing
of the design and the dipping.
Ordinarily a little pipe like tool,
called a tianting, is used for waxing,
The bowl of the tjanting is filled
with melted wax ana the instrument
is guided over the material so that
from a tiny spout in the bowl wax is
poured out in the lines or figures Oh
the pattern.
Javanese Process Reversed
The Javanese dip their materials
in the darker color first, and remove
a. color where it is not wanted by hot
water or ammonia. Western batik-
ers reverse the process, making 1t
simpler. If white, yellow and green
are the colors TO be used. wax is first
poured over the part of the mate
rial which is to be left white. The
piece is then dipped in yellow dye.
Then that part of the design which IS
to remain yellow is covered with wax
and the goods is dipped in blue dye
to produce green. The wax is re-
moved by gasoline.
The processes of batiking have TO
the Javanese all the dignity of an
art. They resent limitations and do
not look with favor on dyed patterns
produced by speed making contriv-
ances. Even though similar patterns
are used over and over, the designefx
put something of their own individ-
uality into them.
Some of the old designs are sacred
10 certain ranks and are MADE espe-
cially for them. Hunting scenes, for
instance, are reserved for royalty.
Such pieces, done by the best batik
makers in Java, are not simple strips
of cloth with a conventionalized stag
and hound repeated at strict inter-
walls A batilS of this sort often con-
tains only one large picture and the
effect is like that of a tapestry.
The Javanese take batik garments
as a. matter of course. The work is
much cheaper there than here and the
native clothing is simple in cut.
Straight pieces of cloth in squares
and stripes of fixed dimensions are
the head dresses, skirts and scarfs OF
a Javanese wardrobe.
The idea OF resist dyeing by use of
wax is very old. The Javanese are
said to have learned the method from
India in the time of Guatama Buddha
| 25 centuries ago. 1t quickly became
popular in Java and today Java rath :
or than India is the place associated
with the art. In old forsaken tenn
pies now hidden in the jungle of the
| interior of the island, carved idols
may be seen portrayed in batik gar
ments and the patterns are very like
| those in vogue in Java. today.
Presumably the art was evolved IN
| India. Yet on this side of the world
samples Of batik in typical Javanese
| designs have been found. Science Is
| at a loss to explain how the designs
| and processes could have been car
| ried across the ocean in cocl1leshel
native craft.
Dutch Found 5atik
The batiks of Java attracted Dutch
! traders several centuries ago AND
! they brought back pieces to Holland
| There was not much interest shown
/ in this eastern product at first bu'
| eventually Holland began to copy the
/ process. OL ltle S6oAeS NAtN ASN~~N -
| ernment has encouraged its people &c
/ experiment with it. A government IN
| stitute was established at Harlem fol
1 displays of batik and as source OF
! information and encouragement foi
! batik makers.
The history of batik in this coun-
/ try dates back at least to the Chlca-
| go exposition Mr.. Neigh remembers
! a display of this art by some Java
i nese at that time. As in Holland, in
| terest in the novelty spread Slowly
/ Theaters saw possibilities for strlk-
! ing effects in the broad use OF dyee
| designs and batik has been widely
/ used for curtains and costumes
In this country we lack centuries
/ of tradition for high standard II
batik. But our artists have some ad'
vantage in greater color resources
in knowledge of color chemistry anf
! in q conscious knowledge of design
So far American ingenuity has made
/ no important improvement over tht
ancient Javanese method of produc-
| ing batik. 1t is true that the genera
| effect of the Javanese patterns car
be reproduced in printed silks. but
! they lack the personality and the ap'
| pearance of being handwork tha'
makes high grade batik art.
The voyage on which Columbus
4 discovered America cost about $1,000
in terms Of our present currency
400 "a o..4i. oe Ia,.,,es,