davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

The green leaves are all massed hlgh'
near the top Of the crown. and 'he
cherries dangle on long stems some
of them dropping in clusters over the
edge of the brim at either side. Inc
pretty little frock which accords WIFI
the style OF this hat, is OF cherry anu
white Georgette crepe made with girl
ish SIMPLICITY and trimmed with deep
cuffs and a bertha frill Of lace. a
garden fete costume this, most cnai ia
ing on a midsummer day. =,
Some Of the picture hats OF l''o
summer are Of straw and faprlc so'h
bined A stunning model noted al
Newport had a brim facing OF "hi'e
straw and all the rest OF the nat "dS
NJ white crepe embroidered In cross
stitch with white wool yarn. Anothe'
Eewport hat was made OF orchld chii
ton with narrow bands Of violet stra"
., Tho brin edge and top Of the crown
This hat had a garland OF wlsterla
that weighted down the brim out lel'
the crown visible. Some or the WIS
.ar;, blossoms trailed off the br!m al
opo side White water lilies are as
much the vogue in millinery th's
summer as lily OF the valley was ias'
summer. Nobody knows how either
NJ these flowers came 10 he a specla
fad Neither one was particularly
prophesied in spring time. But ootr
forged ahead and suddenly became
general fad by midsummer. Whit'
straw hats have water-lIlies In garland
effect around the base Of the crown
and black hats have a single big waite
IIlv poised effectively at one side. I'M
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
oM1DSOr1nER HATS
Dr00p Under HeaNy 1rlnnnln3s

is in double thickness, over a llght
silver wire frame. The crown Is large
and low and the slightly dropping
brim narrows and curls up slightly at
the back. Few OF the large hats have
the same width Of brim at the back
that they have at the front; almost
invariably the brim narrows toward
the back--a much more becoming ana
graceful effect. The flower garland
on this silver lace hat is made
niece: all in one section with trailing
stems and buds at either side and the
whole garland can be removed from
the hat as a feather could. The plush
flowers are in shades of apricot pink,
shell. pale mauve and cream and the
plush leaves are in olive and bronze
green tones The hat accompanies
restaurant frock Of ecru lace over
slip Of olive green silk and the ear
features OF the cos
tune lust now-are OF green gold,
onyx and pearl.
Less impressively expensive but
equal in grace and charm IS the leg
horn hat trimmed with cherries
Quite big cherries are these millinery
ones-almost the size OF plums-ou'
they droOp in clusters in the cherry
| fashion from punches Of green leaves
and they have the wonderful cherry
color which Is neither scarlet nor
cardinal but a shade all its own. The
leghorn hat, rather high of crown ana
with dropping brim narrowing TO-
ward the back. Is bound at the edg'
with a strip OF cherry colored SILK
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
Earrings Add the Note OF Personality.

with the face. y lonGfaCcd, thin
woman who wears glasses should not
wear long, slim car-pendaniS. For
her are hoop earrings or some style
that gives rounded, oval or bell
shaped pendant. The round-taccd
woman should wear the slender long
ear,drops only the pretty ana
piuuaiut face can stand sparkling
Jewels In earrings. Quaint styles in
earrings are especially popular aud in
almost every family are old-fashioncd.
massive "ar-dropS which may be Sot-
ten out now from their wrappiNgs OF
a generation. and mad" 20 S"r'" fash
ION nGain.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

water lily Is an especially grace
flower for millinery uses and
something Of the chaste charm
sessed by the white gardenia
camellia.. 1t is not often IN iasf
but this summer seems TO be com
into its own.
Airy hats OF pleated tulle. ane
frilled organdy are noted at
fetes with frocks of organdy
handkerchief linen. These hats
simple in shape, with big crowns
dropping. wide brims. Sometimes}
ers of tulle in folds stand up In m
effect around the crown. The orga|
hats have cordings and pleatings
the material and there are especii
pretty models in petal effect. with
organdy in overlapped petals. g
big petal piped all around WITT
narrow strip OF the fabric. -Moss
these airy midsummer hats are
per;shable affairs and must be pac
and also guarded every minute
extreme care. Dust. dampness or
much strong sunshine will soon REQ
an expensive hat Of the sort to
tressing looking article OF headgea'
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

dainty, drcss-up costumes. Hats tha'
will travel in taxi or private cars
hats that will pose under the trees III
lawn fetcs. or under awnings on "ide
vcrandas. or against the luxurious set
ting of outdoor dining places. one OF
these hats is trimmed with mowers
the other with fruit and both these
STYLES of trimming are more fashloh-
able this summer than feathers whlch
one saw on so many formal hats last
summer. The only feather trimming
on summer hats this season Is In pom
non effect. Sometimes one or tw" DIE
ostrich pompons are placed against
hat IN cmphasi2c the general sweep OF
line. or to I'LL out a space that "ouIu
hroak the continuity Of line. But
masses of fruit or flowers are more
fashionable.
The handsomer and more expensive
hat pictured is Of silver lace Win now
crs and leaves made Of silk plush-a
material popular just now with lhe
French flower makers. y superb h"'
is this: ono of the most h"aUtlinl mn
ljrerv models OF the midsummer sea
/ son and only intended for wear Win
formal coetumcs-Card"n fct" dresses
or restaurant gowns. TIL" silver id''
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

the edges may be turned up and run
with a simple darning stitch, WIN
wool-a very much easier way; ana
the corners, OF course. must De
notched out and provided with tapes
to tie around the table legs and Keep
the cover in place. Some women aou
to the table covers a set OF small Tea
napkins, made Of the same linen ana
he,nmed in the same way. a charm
ing set in green linen Is embroidered
with black baskets that are filled with
bright colored posies made OF French
knots; a basket in one corner OF each
table cover, and tiny baskets 10
match in the corners of the napkins.
Sometimes the table number is en-
hroidered in the exact center or the
table cover. the numeral in good size
and embroidered and pressed very
fatty. A set Of this sort. in pale tan
linen, has the numerals embroidered
in white, and the hem is done with
brown wool in darning stitch. Inc
napkins. hemmed in the same way
have small white initials embroidered
in one corner
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

fetes one Is sure 70 see rev pretty
girls in red and white printed
Georgette with leghorn hats dropping
under cherries: and pictured is very
Partisan frock of French novelty
crepe printed all over with Gamma red
figures: the border Of the materiaI
making a trimming on the skirt ana
a yoke that extends into short sleeves
The hat is made of this Gamma red ana
white crepe also, with an underbrlm
facing OF white, silk. and vivid coral
red earrings focus the color interest
4 necklace in coral color would b.
lust a little too much for artistic value
so she wears a string OF pearls in
stead.
There is no law against going with
out sleeves in the afternoon, out-ot-
doors, this summer, and many or the
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
"Bloom" On New Fabr
Though F allApproachd

HOuGH in nature one looks
bloom In springtime, dress
terials reverse the process
show their bloom in autumn.
least fashion advices from Paris
clare that all the smart fabrlSs
the fall season show bloom. VIII
means that woody stuffs with SOFT
face. and deep pile fabrics like
vet and plush are to be the mode:
weaves Of velvet-like texture or
heavy satin back crepe. THESE
he more in fashions favor than shin
,rstrous materials like satin metz
taffeta and the like.
The new velvets for formal "
are in superb brocaded ene9
Duvetyne, a veIvety surfaced VI
material promises to be FAVOR
and the variots wool velvets cai|
duyet de laine. veldure, panVelA1
and so on, in Paris. There are ma
NJ these wool velvet weaves on
market In America and most or tni
have trade names which are imp1
sible TO remember Broadcloth, whl
Paris has been trying to revive
several seasons has had to yield
with it's smooth satiny surface and
luster-to the vogue for materi
with bloom. a
For everyday frocks, simple tr
ter costumes for morning wear knit
wool veaves will be popular as ey
and the twill serges. In silks the cre
weaves will be far and away the m
fasb,onable and there Is a revival
the "moutonette" effect (the appel
ance OF the sleeps coat just at
sheariny time) and familiar to m
women in the cotton crepons.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
Hand Embroidered Handkerchief Linen Makes the
Sheer Summer Frock- Silk Crepes in " hlte and
in Printed Effects for Formal AfternoonWea
Short Sleeves for Afternoon Dances.

a~ HERE Is 4 great deal OF outdoor
entertaining at the smart sum-
,nsr colonies now and hosteSseS
~have ceased 20 have the idea
thar any formal affair must nave
BACKGROUND of walls and rugs ana
furniture lighted by electricity-Ih
summer time at least. The garden
party. such feature OF English coun-
try life is becoming more and more
popular in this country, as more anu
more people here acqsire country
houses with surrounding acres.
OF course. one must have an
ESTATE" 70 give a garden party. There
must be space and perspective. SHRUB
berry. wide lawns, winding drives.
garden. One could not invite hfty or
so smart people TO congregate on
moderate front lawn. in plain view OF
passing pedestrians and motorists no
matter how handsome the residence
fronting said lawn. A garden part!
demands privacy. a suitable back
ground Of green. and vistas OF park
land beyond. At Newport. al Bar
Harbor. at Lenox. at southampton
there are such places, and they are
scattered all through the BerEshireS.
In every community Indeed, that
boasts a handsome country club. are
country estate OF dignity and spacious
ness. So the garden party grows ana
grows as a midsummer way OF enter
tanning; and as It grows in popularity
midsummer costumes OF formal ma
,ure become more and more beautiful
o.a d;stio C,,ishad
White Most Charming For Outdoor
Wear
Nothing is so lovely against the OUT
door background in summer time as
6lmy, iuttery white, and the all white
costume is particularly enchanting
against a garden setting. or against a
vista OF lawn and shrubbery. This
summer white Is an exclusive fashion'
perhaps next summer every osher
woman will be wearing IL and part or
the exclusiveness will have vanished;
but this year the all-white afternoon
costume has the charm OF individual-
ity and special loneliness among color
ful frocks and hats. Fashionably
dressed women do not wear white
wash dresses" any more for after
noon occasions. Tub frocks OF white
material are for morning wear-no
matter how beautiful the material
The white frock for formal afternoon
wear must convey the idea OF cos
tume-something far too exquisite
and perishable to come in contact with
soap and water. White Georgette and
chiffon. white crepe de chine and
crepe Roma and the sheerest white
handkerchief linen dropped over thiF
silk, make the exclusive white after
noon costumes for fete occasions
Some of the white frocks, also, are o.
draped white lace-perhaps these are
the most beautiful of all. A stunninf
hat and parasol and eXquisitely dainty
footwear complete the formal gardeT
party costume. American women az
not wear gloves at these outdoor ar
ernoon affairs. the pretense of infor
mals,y IS part OF the charm OF IN
garden fete. At an English garden
marty YOU would see long kid glove
drawn over feminine arms in stir am
formal fash!on-but then. in EnSlanI
here il never the humidity that Otter
.ccurs here on a midsummer after
noon.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

~UT pair OF stunning earrings on
- The pain little woman who dresses
IN simply that somehow she always
seems 20 fade into the background
and note the instant difference Sud
denly-just by the addition OF those
earrings-she seems TO become chic.
Individual and interesting. In other
words she has acquired personality.
This is probably the true secret OF the
popularity OF earrings. II IS not so
much that they are becoming. as that
,bev make their wearers more Inter
esting, more suggestive OF Individual
ity and personality-always interest
drawing qualities
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

At any rate everybody Is wearing
earrings. The woman who has no
ornaments in her ears has somehow
ro,ber addressed and incomplete look.
You do not have to hang heavy mas
sIve pendants from your ear looeS
unless YOU want to; but do wear some
sort of earrings. even small pearls set
in onyx worn close TO the ear lobe,
IL YOU hope 10 look smart and well
dressed.
Dreadful mistakes. Of course, arc
made IN the selection OF earrings
Some women choose their earrings ne
cause Of the style of the ornaments
rather than their style IN conjunction
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
Pretty All-White Costumes

Two beautiful all-white garden
party costumes are pictured. tEpic"I
frocks OF what the very best modes o!
midsummer are offering. one oI
these froCks is thoroughly along the
new lines for autumn-as you VIII see
in a week or so when new iaI lroch'
are presented for your CONSCIENTIOUS
Here is the lonS-watsted, sllsh''!
draped bodice with a yoke motli d.
the top; the skirt drapery drawn
across 10 one side where II lails III
ripping cascade effect; mere Is '"e
new obliuue line of the skirt men,
This frock is OF white crepe Roma
and the skirt drapery instead OF be-
ing hemmed or picot finished, is edged
with a tiny piping. Pipings, by the
way. are the feature or features ~!
fall, The short sleeve Is piped at lhe
edge also. and so is the round neck
line. Rows Of cording below TINS
rornd neckline give the bodice drap-
cry a softer, more ripping erect
than has been the fashion for a sea-
son or two past. The skirt drapery Il
caught up at the left hip under TWO
hio cabucnons of white bacca4ite
which form a sort OF girdle-clasp'
with this beautiful white frock goes
a white silk hat with corded drapeu
crown and two pompons or uncurieu
white ostrich.
Ribbon Loops An Unusual Trimming
Short sections of ribbon in loops or
little straps Joining panels are announcer
feature OF late French fashions. nc
tured is a garden party frock OF "ht'e
silk creme with side panels In the
skirt entirely made OF white grosgrain
ribbon loops - hundreds and nun
dreds of even loops overlapping IN
! thick fringe effect. A sash or the
white crepe fastens at the right MP
under n rosette of white ribbon roses,
and these tiny white roses make
bracelet cuff on each sleeve. Inc
sleeves are slashed at the outer side
m show the arm, a cool and charming
summer fashion. Here again Is the
round yoke motif and the sleeves are
set in those new oblique armholes
which give such a graceful line 10 the
bodice. A dainty hat OF white
Georgette with overlapping folds oi
white malines accompanies this trocK
| Fluted Lace A Dainty Trimming
In pale orchid tint is the hand madf
handkerchief linen frock with IL
nanels OF hand embroidered cherries
! (done in white) separated by double
lines OF narrow huted lace. This tin!
lace fiuting edges the round neck an'
short sleeves and also the edge o
skirt and tunic drapery. Squares
the material. not embroidered, are Sc
diagonally at either side or IN
paneled tunic, falling in graceful! fola
below the skirt hem. The only touci
NJ machine work on this eXQuiSit
frock is in the lace tiuting. ever,
stitch in the costume is set by hano
The pale orchid linen is dropped owe
self tint silk and a necklace
amethyst and pearl beads adds
deener color note. The hat Is o
orchid chiffon and violet straw. Will
parlrrd Of wistcria blossoms.
Dashcs or Red And White
, Though the bright red tones OF TN
summer confine themselves mainly [
sport costumes, they appear occasion
ally in more formal attire. AZ garoe
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

garden party dresses worn by you"se'
women are sleeveless. Dancing on
the veranda is a feature OF AFTERNOON
parties arranged for young people anu
many Of these afternoon dance irocKs
closely approach costumes worn al
evening affairs. Two pretty irorNs
are pictured; a periwinklc blue modc'
with the new long. full skirt ard with
b.rds or silver trimming set between
bands Of tucking; and a smart niue
frock with hand made applique now
ers on the skirt and Transparent
woke and sleeve.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

whether one is going out into the sun
or not on an August afternoon. the
big shady hat conveys the mid-snm-
MGR costume idea with more charm
than a trim little chapeau cou!d pos
sibly do.
Typical hats Of midsummer are the
two models pictured. Not sport mats
these, but formal hats to wear with
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

~HOCGH the sport hat this sum
mer Is small, rakish and piquant
81 In style. dress hats, worn with
W. richly beautiful afternoon cos
tunes and with restaurant dinner cos
tunes are big and picturesque in char
acter, wide of brim with masses OF
flowers or fruits that droop with the
droop of the brim in graceful fashion
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19

Though the bright red tones OF this
GUNNER confine themselves mainly 10
snort costumes they appear OCCASION
allv in more formal attire. AZ garoen
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1922-08-19
FOR THE BRIDGE TABLE

FUK ITT' 'TNFT'R
wv RIDGE table covers are easy ana
II pleasant fancy work for the sum-
~ mer porch. Pale green linen COW
crs are delightful and there should
always be three. or even -FOUR II you
have space in your apartment at home
TO accommodates four tables of bridge
The covers may be hemstitched. or
The Appeal. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. ;) 1889-19??, 1922-05-20
Masons Deny AffiIiation

Portland, Ore, May" Ominous
and forbidding rumors'' falsely init
mate that the Masonic fraternity is
aligned in approval of "a movement
melting religious bigotry and racial
discrimination" said an official circu-
lar, issued last night by Frank S.
Baillie, grand master of the Oregon
grand lodge Of Masons.
The circular, which mentioned no
specific organization, followed closely
the lines of one recently issued by
the grand master of the California
grand lodge, in which membership in
the Ku Klux Klan by Masons was
discountenanced.
Any person appearing masked on
the streets Of Portland will be liable
to arrest on a charge of disorderly
conduct, Chief Of Police Jenkins an
nounced. Orders to make arrests of
such persons were issued at the same
time. The orders resulted from a
statement by Fred L. Clifford, exalted
cyclops Of Luther Powell Khan No. 1,
realm Of Oregon, that Ku Klux Khan
robes were being initiated and he
feared trouble Of some sort that
might be laid to the door of the khan.
The Appeal. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. ;) 1889-19??, 1922-05-20
WOMEN AND SAVINGS

At the conference of mutual saw
ings banks, in session at Atlantic
City, one Of the delegates said that
the wife is the money saver of the
family, that she is usually the better
business man of the conjugal firm,
that "the average woman spends less
on her clothes than the average
man." that "women whose husbands
earn between $4,000 and $4,000 a
year are much more economical than
men," and that "men, are more ex-
travagant in the matter of luxuries,
such as lunches, cigars and amuse-
ments.'" ~. . r
The delegate saying this was a
woman, and no doubt could qualify
as an expert on women. and their
habits. It is not altogether pleasing
to have. her classify lunches and
cigars as luxuries, and she must
mean certain kinds of lunches and
cigars to which most men are
strangers. It is perhaps putting
some strain on the English language
to apply the word luxury to the
average lunch, and in the matter of
the average cigar, we'll, well-it is
not luxury. -
But there is a sound foundation for
the remarks of the delegates at this
convention, tending to confirm sus-
picion which very many husbands.
have but which they do not admit in
the presence of the household. be-
cause "discipline must be main
tanned" and because Mrs. Wife al
ready has pretty well settled con-
viction that the responsibilities of
the home depend mainly on her.
The home-making and home-build-
ing instinct is strong in most women.
It. is they in most instances who urge
the man to ''buy" s.little place. and
who DO the most heroic skimping and
pairing Of expense accounts to meet
the payments on the home. The
wives who try to keep up with the
Joneses are not as numerous as the
husbands who dig too deeply into
their net earnings to support the
character Of good fellow" popular
man" or "sport. -" j
The Appeal. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. ;) 1889-19??, 1922-05-20

T
Holly who was appointed to Annapo-
lis and who failed (?) in the mental
test. The examination papers are
marked by three officers who are sup
posed not to know the names Of the
candidates, but who believe that
where there was 50 much at stake,
there was not some trick that en-
abled them to know Holly's papers !?
When he was nominated we felt
that no matter how we'll he showed
up there would be "a way found to
keep him out-and there was.
THE APPEAL doubts the. fairness
of the findings and suggests the N
A. A. C.P. investigate the matter
and demand the production Of the
original examination papers.
The Appeal. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. ;) 1889-19??, 1922-05-20
THE WAR RECORD OF coLoRED
MEN IN &RICHMOND. VA.


What is true of the colored soldiers
in Richmond, Va, is true of them
generally everywhere. The Southern
Workman says Of them in Richmond
Va:
The record of colored men under
the selective service in the World
War should be "a source of tremen-
dous pride, not only to Richmond, but
throughout the South, and especially
to the colored people. The local
boards held high expectations as to
the conduct Of colored registrants.
Every expectation was met, SO fully
as tos ansWerthez sjinge agitaters sof
both races. For willingness to do the
duty assigned, for trust in the gov
eminent to treat every man fairly,
for eagerness to be of service to his
country, and for enthusiastic CO.
operation with the plans and institu-
tons of the government, the record
Of the colored people of this city is
in no way below that of their white
neighbors.
The opportunities Of the colored
men rea to enlist or to volunteer were
comparatively limited. There was,
generally speaking, no great encour-.
agement for them to volunteer, and
the volunteer spirit Of the colored
man hadzve little chance for out
let. In applying the selective serv-
ice law in this city to. the cases Of
.colored registrants, there was no dis
order nor violence, nor indeed any
hint or suggestion Of it. it. The colored
population was unitedly and whole
5heartedly behind the government Z