davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1922-03-26

the ankle in another are also a solace
to the spirit of the American woman
who rebelled at the first decree Of
long skirts. The collections of gowns
recently shown in Paris have counted
numerous frocks with skirts that
were frankly long. with none Of these
slashing or upward draping, but they
are among the models that have not
been chosen so frequently for trans
plantation on this side of the At
lantic.
You cannot possibly quarrel with
the way the French designers have
handled the sleeve question. The new
sleeves possess such infinite variety
that for every type of woman and for
every Shade of taste there must be
one that is acceptable. 1t was quite
different two or three years ago. when
the yer.' short sleeve was to be found
on almost every frock of French i'm
portation that was not really sleeve
less. To be sure, these frocks could
be altered. providing sleeves of
greater substance, but when this was
done they lacked the cachet Of French
inspiration. There has been far less
modification of French imports this
year than has been the case in many
moons. Within the last two weeks
fashionable women all over the coun-
try have responded to the Invitations
of their dressmakers to view their
recent tmportationa In the orders
that have resulted with profit to the
dressmakers there have been few
calls for notifications. Tho copies
ordered have usually been veritable
copies, departing from the line and
Evening star., 1922-03-26
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.


A MERICAN women are better
~ pleased with the clothes re-
~ Gently exhibited by the great
French dressmakers than they
were with their collections a year
ago.
The heightened skirt is no longer
q novelty. A year ago when the
French dressmakers first brought it
out American women i'll concealed
their disgust Frankly. 1t seemed
dowdy. Since then the skirt has not
changed, save in some cases actually
to become longer But our tastes have
changed. We have framed our minds
to accept the inevitable. We have be-
come educated" say the importers
It is of satisfaction to Americans,
who wish to find Paris precedence
for their clothes selections that the
disposition among most. of the well
known designers is to make keen
distinction between the length of
street frocks and frocks designed for
evening or formal afternoon wear.
We may still wear the skirt of our
spring suit or our sport skirts seven
or eight inches from the ground with
out lacking good French authority
Frocks designed for very young
women also retain fairly short
skirt length. while most Of the stage
gowns here and in France exploit the
skirt that is strikingly long
X y
EVENING and more formal frocks
with an uneven skirt length or
with draining that touches the ground
in one place and reveals more than
Evening star., 1922-03-26
Spring Fashions.

To wear with a suit Of black crepe
is a white satin waistcoat heavily
embroidered In black.
The wrapped skirt. fringed OF un-
fringed, has become one Of the sea-
sons most enjoyable fads.
Steel beading and a perforated steel
girdle lend smartness to- . straight
frock Of blue serge.
A favored type Of coat for the
youthful figure is the slim model with
the short military cape.
Dresses made of tissue ginEham
often have net insets in the skirts,
giving "a most pleasing effect.
For the boudoir are pajamas Of
black satin. worn with q blouse of
yellow and green printed satin.
A frock Of black velvet buttons
up to the chin. and has sash. collars
and cuffs Of dark brocade ribbon.
The loveliest evening slippers are
made with straps, which are fastened
with jeweled ornaments.
The newest silhouette fiares. not a.
the bouffant skirt does, but with
rippled fullness from hip to ankle.
The newest foulards are net spotted,
but show allover patterns. which are
as modern as they are new.
\ A Persian blue sport blouse. COLI
Jared and cuffed in. white. is worn
with q circular skirt Of white flannel.
A froek Of midnight blue corded
silk is trimmed with brtck-red broad
cloth and embroidered In blue and
gold.
A smart street freck is perfectly
straight in front and bleuses in the
back over low belt. below which 1t
falls In circular folds.
A new note IL the standing COLI
lar, which is featured BY aftsrnoon
ffoeks and fancy SUITS. II IL sensr-
ally snhrcidered and anishsa ~ >
string tia ......-..-.....
Evening star., 1922-03-26
Honey Cake for Children.

Cream together one-fourth cup OF
butter and one-fourth cup Of honey.
Add two unbeaten egg yolks and then
beat. Add two tablespoons Of orange
juice, then two and one-half cups OF
flour. one teaspoon of cinnamon. one
fourth teaspoon of salt. one-fourth
teaspoon of soda and one and one
half teaspoons of baking powder. all
sifted together. When well mixed.
fold in the stifliy beaten whites Of two
eggs and bake in small tins or .
shallew pan. Cover with orange to-,
inE. !
Evening star., 1922-03-26

with approval, even with enthusiasm,
by American importers at the early
opening in Paris, are brought to this
country. and taken up with an ap-
proval that amounts to popularity
that are seldom seen in Paris after
the first showing. Sometimes the rea-
son for this is that the French de-
signers have other ideas that they
work out, after the majority. Of the
American buyers have left. that
crowd out the first ones. Again 1t
terialized by a truly Partisan design
or will have strong appeal to the
American. but not to the Parisian.
This sort of thing happens every
season.
X X + \
N enormous amount Of metallic
\ fabric has been used in the max
ing of the French clothes this sea-
son. Silver is especially smart. but
gold has been as we'll. Sometimes
this consists Of 4 plain cloth Of sill
yer or gold of wonderfully soft and
supple texture. Sometimes 1t con-
sists Of a true metallic brecade and
again it is in one Of the marvellous
silks that show printing In bright
end fantastic colors with an inter-
weaving of light but lustrous metallic
inter -threadings.
Parisians of undoubted tasts and
smartness have worn these metallic
fabrics for afternoon frocks as well
as those designed, for evening. They
wear metallic cloth cuirasses fer aft
ernoon tea. It 10 an unvarying rule,
however, that Americans will take
less eagerly to metallic fabrics than
de Frenchwomen. When they do Sc
lect them it is almost for a formal
evening gown.
A really stupendous quantity Of these
metallic fabrics was produced in
France in anticipation of the vogue
for gold and silver tissues. A very
large proportion was sent to Spain
and to Spanish centers in South
America. There 10 q growing demand
for these metallic fabrics in India.
America is more conservative in her
demand for metallic cloth. However,
you may be perfectly sure that for .
gown to be wern on ceremonious oo-
casions cloth of silver, silver lace and
silver embroidered net will be in very
good style. for the ensuing six months.
The prediction ia made that next au-
tumn and winter the American de-
mand for these metallic fabrics viii
have increased.
~ -
4 MERIcANs are perfectly contsat
= to foilox tie lead Of France n,
Evening star., 1922-03-26

proportion and detail of the French
original only to suit individual re-
quirements.
This Is the. state Of affairs that is
summed up when those who have
seen collections Of the new French
clothes speak Of them as distinctly
''wearable."
To be sure. there are many styles
that bud and bloom and then go to
seed in Paris that are never shown
the light in this country. Oddly
enough, It also happens that certain
details Of a new mode are received
Evening star., 1922-03-26
The Shampoo.

We'll cared for hair will not need
special tonies, Since it IL kept in
seed condition. daadruH or ether hair
Troubles will have no chsnca to de-
%elop. This talk today is only for
the girl whose hair 10 already in coed
conditien.
A certain amount Of daily care is
essential. The hair should be taken
down at night and the scalp given q
quick vigorous massage with the
hands to stimulate it and to air It
Then the locks should be brushed
and opened cut 50 that hair and
sealp viii be thoroughly aired. When
the weather permits the hair should
be given frequent sun baths.
A healthy scalp sheula be sham
pooAa sasa ID thyes vsshs unless
yss I'VE - tAe sitxr Then. Il the
Evening star., 1922-03-26

- - -
--~s
- ,-.,>
:
q
Evening star., 1922-03-26

scription. Tanetas are chosen only
for the occasional bouffant type Of
frock that the French dressmakers
wisely use only for young girls
frocks.
Not 50 many Of the new models call
for moire silk. though this still
smacks of ~smartness. A heavy but
pliable MORE silk with the water
marks forming a conventional floral
design is seen in some Of the new
gowns. Blister satin is In high favor
and lends itself. to the new draped
gowns, or to those that hang with
classic simplicity. Cote de cheval Is
new French silk that shows q tiny
ridge. In fact. all materials with q
faille-like ridge are frequently seen
in the French gowns brought to this
country for our inspiration.
= French designers consciously play
ed to the American element In their
audience when. they took measures
Evening star., 1922-03-26

to popularixe high eolors. Amer
leans are noted for their fondness for
bright shades. Tho duller. shades, the
pastel shades, seldom give the Amer
icau as deep satisfaction as they do
Evening star., 1922-03-26

bodice is drawn rather close. close
enough to cause wrinkles above the
girdle. and there is a small loose
panel at the left side.
Evening star., 1922-03-26

the French women. 1t may be that
the bright sunshine and the absence
Of q softening haze in our atmos-
phere has something to do with this.
One Of the most wearable types OF
blue serge suit is shown in one OF
the sketches. This shows the long
wide sleeve that can be easily drawn
on and off without mussing the
blouse beneath. 1t also shows the
use Of the rather circular peplum set
on . wide sirdle Of the Jacket. This
idea was developed by several Of the
French designers, as a departure
from the more usual straight line
jacket. The suit shown is from
Molyneux. It is Of navy blue serge
with . trimming Of white braid and
white beads. This use of white cot
ton braid on blue woolen fabric is
new and clever.
+ X
TN another sketch q gown from
Worth shows the combination of
a navy blue serge skirt with q red
Evening star., 1922-03-26
Smiles Approval on Latest Modes From Paris DESIGNERS

Are Better With French Garments Recently
w Skirt No Longer Novelty-Uevn Skirt Length
Evening Formal Frock-The Way French Designers Have Handled the
Sleeve Pm-Use of Metallic Fabric-Popuar High Colo and Blue Serge
Suits-N -Newan Striking Fi6uredS Silks
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
BY OLlvB RoBERTs BARTON
Story Number III

Nancy and Nick followed Mr..
Pocrnbout out OF his famshacklo
old house and along a pa
through the Silver Forest to the
town OF snoozeium. whore the
Towslics lived. Tho Towaises were
the dream fairies.
II was G very odd place-no-
thing at all like n dream. For
dreams r quiet and beautiful
mortly--while this Mace was fuii
% noise.
What are they all doihgT"
asked Nancy curiously.
Polling drcamRi" nodded old
P~eerabout approyingiy.
The Twins watched n little
Towsiic while he worked over q
bright kettle. These were the
things he put into Il; A piece OF
beautiful silk. n few raindrops.
Honc tears. some faded Flowers,
some fresh flowers and n song.
Then he stirred u all up with n
big spoon, bigger than himself He
flew around from n side 10 the
other. singing a quaint little song
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
THE REFEREE
BY Albert Apple
MONKEYs

a
other Kind Of monkey. This IL reported to the
American Society OF Mammalogistr. by s~eientists ana
surgeons who have been studying the body OF the
John was he gorilla Imported a year ago by
~chimpanzeep. says the report, are friendly. soon
become pets contented with captivity. They also
develop a craving for liquor and will steal every
bottle they get their hands ON.
Gorilias escape at the first opportunity, are con-
stan,iy watching Tor n chance to crush out" and
The Gorilla. however. has the brain CT a two-year-
old child. ~ has ~ or II year> 10 80. before catch
ing up with tho human average. n.
QuAiutELs
A woman living IN Germantown Pa, wins n d.
vorce on the ground that her husband la . golf
bug and neglected her for his game. She will have
sympathy Of All women who feel that their hu--
bands are more Interested In their work or hobbies
than In thcif wives.
The nasbsna IL This soltlns triangle rs'ort. that
he liked.
People concentrating marr'aso should beware Of
philosophy. defective psychology. Harmony requires
common ~intofesis. =
ExhAusted French soldiers. early in the war,
'elept on their feet while reireating. You read
aeol, ~ PROBABLY doubted II until the report was
scientific Paul Prys nov discuss similar phe-
played are falling into the habit OF sleeping as they
stand warming themselves IN the sunshine.
Why get excited about that7 The world Is full
q neople who nguratively sleep al the time. When
they como out - their trarce. or dsxe, and realize
" seek hooch. movies OF other narcotics to luil them
back.
J. ~ Barrlnger. general manager OF National Cash
Register Co, says; What business needs To fear
are me'n moi ." %nrs sHs' s ,hss are = on 's ssalss s, and such ! s sss,se
stops all prosress. We may have. all the coal and
an The labor we want but ~ brains are not In action
narrinser. IN a general way. speaha truth,
uh ~, r do, assH h soi &C. : so ss1ss 70 ,hs e me y
"thrown Into h,gh" by courage, Hard times or
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
DEFORMITIES
Bishops Advice :

IL always moving NJ this age and
mag have a serious fall.
Congenital deformities are some
times durable by early operation.
More attention should be given
by parents and physicians 10 com
plants OF growing pains Often
they are the first signs OF a grow
inE ~dcformiiy.
Prevention Of deformitieR result
ing from ~infantile paralysis Is
largely a matter 81 preventing tho
disease Itself. by quarantine, avoid
ance Of crowds When tired or
weak, and cleanliness during the
prevalence Of the disease.
In early chiidhood proper pos
ture, breathing c~xorciser aud avoid
ance Of carrying heavy books and
packages will prevent round OF
stoop shoulders and spinal curya-
turo.
EnlarEed tonslis and dccayed
teeth often cause joint dcformitieH.
Social diseases claim mor than
their share OF serlVuy Joint and
bone diseases.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
Tom Sims Says:

II costs more to live now: but II
IL worth nor
All work and no play makes the
reformer a killjoy.
Cut glass makes a fine wedding
present. but a poo engagement
ring.
The unemployed would call a
little work a vacation.
Many a man who thinks he was
fool when he married hasn't
changed.
These oil stock suckers had
better let wells enough alone.
Every day the miner strike con
tinucs we predict n harder winter.
No husband " worthless; but
some are worth less than others.
Tho obey In being taken out
81 marriage rites. Some take II ~
OF the prohibition law also.
No M worries rs much over
what he makes as over what he
gets.
Buy until Il hurts In the new
slogan. That's easy.
Lenino'H shoulder Ii lame: but
not as lame ms his excuses.
They say tobacco smoke Kills
germs, and kirena full of
germs. 40 what could you expect
from a ilapperf
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26

and looking ever 30 happy
At last he unlocked a sack
from the waf % his house. made
OF pony loavcH--the mck, mt the
house. and hold IL over the kettle.
Tho steam from the kettle went
into II and he tied u up with a
tendril off a grape vine.
80 sat was u whole story the
Towslie stirred into the kettle"
explained MIR. peerabouL "a Ia
tie girl wore a new silk dress 20
a party. Il rained and she cried
because her dreas was spoiled.
Then she snw some poor. dus-
~ faded flowers hold Up their
drodpinE heads TO the ran and
look 40 fresh and glad she forgot
about her dress and began to sing
The Towslie will slide down 90
earth on a moon-benm tonight.
then down a chimney and open
his bag on some little giri's pit
low. That's the way it's icne.'
(To Re conflnnri1
copyright. i032. NEA serylcel
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26

LOUIS JOSEPH NANd

mind az at an appropriate he felt
instincti,ely to bo inadequate IN
point Of eicsancr,
Fair enough" he agreed with
la passahlc display of good spirit.
lets go to II. Men. He APP
preached The set. ,upon which Two
lvamofas stood ttafged OF ciase
range. with Klicr flrhtY focutcd.
Nov. Miss lee, IN lust line In
what want Of you this scene.
The set was a simple angle.
where two walk met In an apart
ment hallway. with a donr tIaat
opened Inward from a living room
set beyond. In this last the b'g
dramatic moment OF the play was
10 be staged, a scene involving L.u.
cindn ana her two leading mon,
The heavy father and the Juvenile.
his son. both Of whom were under
stood to he In love with Nelly
Here. In his bachelor apartmcni,
Nelly was to call az midnight on
the father 10 beg him to Intervene
with the tltuinr villain and save
her hayward brother from Inn
p~Iirormcnt.
Tho madly infatuated father was
TO propose marriage. and Nelly was
to accept him. momentnrily carried
ore ier feet hy the sincerity Of hts
passion MS much as by the glamour
% hts wealth and social position.
While this was going on. Dick.
the son. passing in the street. was
60 catch q glimpse OF Neliy's
shadow on the window shade anil.
t.slla vafeh t.a1A.t.ns A.w..uA -
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
FOOLINC MR.. FORD

IN Mr.. Henry Ford's home town the neighbors
have rallied srouBd with a demand that the
great motor ear manufacturer run for Presi-
dent 81 the United States on an honest cur
rency'' platform. 49,. ,
If by honest currency" is meant the kind
Of currency Mr.. Ford proposed M the means
Of financing the Muscle Shoals enterprise. then
il may be said that the platform proposed for
him advocates o currency the intentions of
which are no doubt honest but the efficiency
Of which is somewhat more than doubtful.
II il not unnatural tL.st Mr. Ford ) lone town
people should be immensely proud of him and
eager TO honor him. He has made Dearborn
and severel other Suburbs of Detroit aud has
contributed more than any other influence
toward making Detroit not only a center Of
population but also Of n widely radiSting pros
perity Ford is a national business hero. His
unquestioned business genius has made him a
hero.
Ford's ventures into the field of politics,
however, have tended TO transform a business
hero into a political Joke. His most enthusi-
astic biographers, and their number Is legion,
have found IL necessary 10 frankly confess
or TO gloss over the automobile manufacturer s
inability TO keep from running so far ahead of
his times in the field Of political activity and
social science as TO leave the times TO shift for
themselves.
Recent announcements, whether authorized
or not, that Ford Influence would be felt in
every state in which a senator who voted for
Newberry sought re-election, have left n bad
taste in tho public mouth. Ford Influence is
taken 10 mean Ford money, aud there are al
ready far too many newspaper references in
various states to the "%flivver influence for
the peace Of mind Of the motor ear builder,
10 he cares for peace Of mind.
An autobiography Of Henry Ford is now
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
Now A, .Businestaa


D
Another congressional bloc d.
proposed, =. ftauwpod Menke
president 81 the National secur.
league. ventures tho unwarrnnl.
Insertion that the Washington iatii
maiiefn ara deaf TO hurinrsA" apr
he recommended tho suiidIs
Tradcs Employera association,
New York. 10 set about dfraniyi
a business bloc In congress.
~ bad advice. had for the natl
in general and for business men :
particular.
The bloc IL alien 20 onr im
tutlona. II Implies . selfish
termination To cnorco the conHrs
sionai majority into granting .
demands of n compact nrour. cr
ututing a Troublesome. aKErcaai
and often tyrannical minority.
respective OF the Interests of 4
whole body pciitir. Mr.. Mcnk
IL NOT national minded, as a ieac
IN commerce aud industry QUE
TO be. He does no, view tho sitt
ton IN it, broad aspects when
says:
Congress listens 20 ihe "a,
bloc II listens 10 labor. n ke..
stop to the hutcn of tho AmorIY
Legion. Hut Il Ia deaf 10 the col
monncnse demand OF Americ'
business bccauE4 burfnena ~
organized TO strike the nrna
gagged politician.
Trlumnils OF the 'farmerr' bio
have been purchased at tae cxpctI
OF public evaporation which hoe
~ for the continuance % the LEG
intiye black jack In confrc
while the bloc confined ith
| forts 10 securing emergency leg
lation by which the ruinouE def
ton OF agricultural products mis-
be amsliorated, the public "
measurnbiy symDathetic. But Wi
all legislation In congress II treat
by the bloc from the single AM
Of grarpinE class Interest. the 10
of merit In the bloc beeon
pelpni,ic.
Even II Mr.. Menkcn's compn
were justified. n business hir
Il less likely 20 Influence anosil !
bunch OF class legislation than
provoke popular rcseptment NJ
attempt. Moreover. the conflict \
biocs'' tend 20 pnrniyxr the icE 3
lntive machine. which. ~ best.
no, celebrated for ita hish deg*
Of efficiency,
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
2S Violent Deaths
In Belfast Since
Last Saturdl

uEf-FAST, May as-tBy
Associated Press Since sat-
day last ~ dcatha from violel
have occurred In Belfast, inciu1|
six last evening and today. L
body Of r man vas dlscovered|
tho street today With a pu|
through tho brain.
In East Belfast trenches vi
dug 10 several streets. the inhd
tanta fearing an attack. pur1
the sniping In the east end n
men were ARRESTED and uunrr|
ispuneH IN the district were scar
cd.
anycrait rounas Of ammunit
for re~voivrrs were discovered. I
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1922-05-26
Chats With
Rex Beaci
Ivy MORRIS ERNAN

w "ttttttH "
/ never went on a fishing trip \
a hunting trip In my life "a
some possible ''thriir didn't PEI
sent Itself. u
In fact. l don't know a sinf
angler or hunter who haan't a
perienced his greatest thriir'.
These thriIlers were either actsi
or fancled. sometimes humoro
at other Hines tragic. }
Rex Beach got his white
location FOR bis motion ptctu.
THE Iron Trail.
III was on the Copper river.e
Alaska" says Beach. 'tocs ri
days Fred Stone nnd myself iif1
~ small boat up that swift runnif
ice-s,rewn. ~torrential stream.
one side of ~ were active siaeit.
three hundred feet high On VI
other side was a rocky angr
towering boulders. banks ~
feet above US. The river was "A
than two hundrod yards vide q.
for three miles we had TO pass
the face OF the glaciers
II vice on the trip ehunhA
big az the Fiatiron buihh
dropped OF IN a single column (
low us-glory be they DID 4
drop from above uS.
III was just like going Up
street OF aky-acrapcra where AZ 4
second one OF them might fall Z
you. When one Of those cnur
broke loose you could hear IL
miles. Following the crash. pief
OF Ice were hurled clear over
the opposite shore and the auui
quent wave would have sunk
i,attieship. NJ
"On the way back we rabf
those three mites Of glaciers In
minutes. The trip that had taH
us five days OF hard labor 10 md
up the river We covered In n
hours going down.
"The ten minutes We spent
hurdlinR down this Wild efrcf
past thofe active of icd
unhesitatingiy claim ms great
thrlll''
Rex Beach Is a very mod
man. Likewise. he IL about
rugged q two listed, rouEn-n1
tumble herman as onn would "a
10 meet. He has had more nj
tho average number Of "abnorq
,remorf In the respiratory or cirf
latory systems. hut II you
looking for AT out-end-t|
"tvemor". he recommends
ono. ~ iNIf