davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31

Of the smartest evening dresses. In
contrast to these is a new model in
pink and gold lace. Cerise and sill
yer are quite frequently combined,
especially in young girls dresses.
Whether evening gowns be sim
pie or elaborate, a great deal OF
jewelry Is worn with them. Among
the really extravagant and beauti-
full new necklaces are those Of dia-
monds worked in a flexible band
with a square diamond pendant an
inch and a quarter in diameter and
another diamond in rectangular
shape, only slightly smaller at
tached at the center back.
One Of the new necklaces consists
Of a round, uncut emerald eabo-
ehon fully an inch and a half in d.
ameter attached at each side to a
narrow silk cord with ornamental
slides and small pendants Of rose
diamonds. Lovely single pearls also
are hung in this manner to narrow
silk cords in eolors, such as blue
pink, green or mauve. This way Of
suspending precious stones from the
sides instead Of from the top is still
in vogue.
A beautiful solitaire diamond Is
placed in the fraiIest imaginable
basket-likc setting Of platinum
mounted on thread-like ring Of
black enamel to make a necklace.
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
Jet Is Combined
With Nacre and Pearls

TET is smart both for combs and
" regulation headdresses. Jet and
pearls also are combined in some Of
the smartest things. One copy Of
an old comb seen recently had a
mounting Of dull green gold and
was set with two rows Of pearls, the
upper row two sizes larger than the
lower. The smartness, however,
was IN the fact that the comb
reached almost from ear TO ear and
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31

large bow tied on the left shoulder
or as the turnover top of seton
skirt to form a girdle. Sometimes
the two are combined in one model.
In striking contrast to the un-
trimmed dress, which depends on
drapery for its charm, arc the bead
ed evening dresses in square, oblong
and round crystal beads, in jet, as
we'll as in color. These also fea-
ture large cabochons in high colors.
Rhinestones and jet motifs and
Jewel studded embroideries are used
on evening dresses.
Many Of the deeollete models
have specially designed shoulder
straps worked out like jewelry, but
in rhinestones and imitation onyx.
Some Of them also have very elabo-
rate belts that are Of metals set
with jewels.
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
Long Pearl Necklaces
Worn With Black Frocks

A NEW bracelet is made large
enough TO wear just below the
shoulder, and is Of pearls strung on
silver and has a fringe Of the pearl
beads, which falls over the arm'
usually in a point. These are also
made with the fringe Of uniform
length. The same idea is carried
out in dog collars Of pearls COM
bined with onyx, this making a
much more striking and really
smarter bracelet or collar than the
pearls alone.
The long twisted chain Of fine
pearls finished with a tassel Of
pearls which has as the last bead an
onyx a bit larger than the last pearl,
the whole held By an onyx slide, Is
very smart and much worn with
black frocks. Another fancy nov
city in pearls is large tassel with
onyx top, worn on long black silk
cord.
The sketch at the upper ight OF
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
ADYEHTJsEMBNT
ART in DRESS
sA4yh~477

only a good or bad comb.
nation of colors.
We take leaf from Nature
in recommending the follow
ing color scheme. Let the
dark colors of the costume be
nearest the ground, and let the
color scheme become lighter
the higher up II goes.
AS regards a particular or
individual color: it Is a safe
rule TO insist upon the exact
shade-on the identical shade
and not any substitute that in
half light looks like it. For
instance, there are two shades
of violet-one a soft purple
color aud one a blue-violet
tone. The difference between
the two is as great as the diff
ference between a violin and
violoncello. The blue-violet,
in order to prove becoming.
requires a complexion that
boasts high color in the
cheeks.
The House of Collins has
devoted special attention 20
training the Sales Staff in All
appreciation of color and color
differences in relation 20 dress
and personality. In our own
shop we endeavor by harmo-
nious surroundings 70 further
develop the instinct for color
judgment.
Rules are excellent IL we
know the exceptions to them,
so we submit the following
general principles, with a eau
ton that they must be applied
with discretion:
For the blond-soft reds,
lovely greens, and apricot for
evening.
For the brunette-gold or
yellow, many shades of brown,
although extreme care must be
exercised in selecting the
right shades Of the brown
family. The warm tones OF
brown are best suited 70 a
complexion high in color, ein-
namon brown harmonizing es-
pecially we'll with light brown
eyes and hair. Tan, combined
with dark blue, is good for
brunettes who are blessed with
a clear complexion; otherwise
a touch of cream color at the
neck is necessary 10 soften the
effect.
Pinkish or mauve grey is
likewise becoming to bru-
nettes, but never the taupe or
steel greys.
Every color has its compile
mentary hue, ready to be of
service, like a good fairy. II
these color vibrations have
feeling, how mortified they
must be to be torn out of their
proper associations and made
to suffer the companionship
of enemiesl
The eye is offended by a
play of two bright colors
brought forcibly into contact
without the harmonizing prin-
ciple of a middle tone. The
effect is too startling. II is a
declaration by the wearer OF
self-advertisement rather than
self-expression. Bright shades
must be modified by a palcr
color.
There are colors that shout
and. colors that weep; those
that charm and those that in"
furiate.
But the ultimate rule Is that
one cannot err If one holds TO
the principle Of building the
gown with one tint.
1t is foolhardy to prophesy
about things in general; it is
worse to prophesy about fash
ion details. If we do so, il is
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
ADoubIe FriIl at the Back

revival Of the hustle effect have no
foundation whatever from the stand
point Of Paris. There is nothing
that in any way resembles hustle
unless what one might call the big
Japanese bow seen on some of the
evening dresses and the jabot back.
But they are quite the reverse. as
they are entirely without stufing
and give a very fat back, despite
their flowing lines.
A Scarf Tie With
Long Flowing Ends
7 ANVIN shows what might be
called a hustle in front in that
she uses a double girdle effect in
puff on a blouse bodice, the idea
borrowed from the Italian Renais-
sance and in no way resembling the
tournure Of the early 's0s. Poiret
and Paquin show slightly punched
draperies, but these models are Of
minimum significance.
One Of Vionnets best liked jabot
back evening dresses is sketched on
to-day's page. It is developed in
rose moire, showing the reverse side
of satin. The back panels, which
form graceful lines, open almost be-
/ low the waistline. The neck Of the
dress at the front is high.
Another type Of jabOt dress also
is shown. 1t is made of white mOire
which has a black satin back. This
model has a distinct Greek move
ment, even TO the fibula of bril-
liants.
The seated figure in the sketch
on to-day's page illustrates a crepe
de Chine dress showing Vionnet's
new use Of the scarf or tie. She
cuts the narrow scarf with wide
I flowing ends and uses it either as
binding on a bateau neck with
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
Much Jewelry Worn
With Evening Gowns

AMONG the striking novelties is
dress made entirely Of jet pail
lettes, through which is wrought a
design in colored paillettes. This is
most unusual looking, more closely
resembling a gown Of rich brocade
than one that is spangled.
One need not be hampered in the
choice of color for evening gowns,
for there is a full series Of yellows
and reds and many combinations Of
these colors. There are strikingly
beautiful dresses all in fame red or
fame yellow, but despite the appar-
ent interest in high cOlors there are
a,l-blaek evening dresses.
One in black satin is studded in
design of rhinestones hammered d.
rectly in the fabric, with drapery
held on one hip by large motif in
let and rhinestones with acorn pen
dants.
A new model quite Greek in It's
feeling is developed in black satin
combined with a dull black and gold
Rauze, the latter arranged in pleat-
ed panels. Black satin is combined
with handsome black lace in many
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31

scdr1, mich she uses either as
binding on a batedu neck,
iying in a large BON on the left
shoulder, or as The turnover Top
Of a seton shirt 10 form a ghdIc
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31
A Bodice Jabot
That Forms a Yoke

TT is a most extraordinary way Of
cutting the jabot back yoke and
front Of dress in one piece and is
Characteristic Of the wizard methods
Of Vionnet. Attention has previous
ly been called 10 the use Of the fur
jabot on Vionnet suits and street
dresses. This idea is becoming
more and more popular,
Erroneous reports regard ing the
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31

to-day's page shows a necklace Of
Jade beads having a tassel made OF
jade and onyx, also a jade loeket
studded with emeralds. suspended
from a black silk cord. The cga-
rette case, also sketehed, is cylin-
drical in shape and made Of ivory
and black enamel studded with
rhinestones.
An exceedingly interesting and
novel mounting for a gold mesh bag
is achieved by working a quarter
inch gold bar frame in most unex-
peeted proportions. The horizontal
bar, not over an inch in length,
forms the top Of the frame and
serves as a base for the mounting OF
the ruby-studded clasps. From this
point the bar descends, at either
side, in an eyer-increasing angle TO
a depth Of three inches, forming
the widest portion Of the bag. Al
though the frame Is exceedingly
narrow at the top, the bag is most
useful owing to the spreading pro-
portions Of the frame.
Coquc Feathers Mounted
On Tortoiseshell Sticks
WORTH as we'll as Doucet is show
ing novelty fans Of coque
feathers in the most delightful col
ors, such as fame red, jade green,
gray and fame yellow, set into two
straight sticks Of tortoiseshell. The
coque feathers are large and rather
straight, so that only the slightest
curl remains at the top, and are
clcverly mounted at the sides Of
the tortoiseshell sticks TO come out
at different angles, giving a very
wild and disheyeled look, but at the
same time making a very smart and
most unusual fan.
The illustration at the upper left
of this page shows a coque fan in
bright red. The dark-haired wom-
an who carries It IS wearing two
onyx bracelets on her right arm and
onyx earrings.
New-York tribune., 1922-12-31

-NHE development Of mid-win-
ter fashions continues along
Il extremely simple lines with
distinct newness expressed
IN the detail.
vionnet is making a strong fea-
ture Of jsbot effects. Many of the
newest day and evening dresses de-
pend entirely upon the jabot for
novelty. This she applies in many
different ways. Her most success
ful evening dresses show the double
jabot down the center back, flowing
in graceful lines almost to a train.
Another evening dress which is
proving popular with women Of dis
criminating taste has the jabot in a
wing-like drapery on one shoulder,
dividing over the arm and falling
both TO the front and 70 the back.
On simpler models there is some
times a single jabot frill' directly
down the front Of the bodice only or
again it is on the skirt.
Her new idea in afternoon dresses
Of crepe de Chine shows big bodice
jabot cut in one with the front Of
the dress which, going around the
neck, makes a little standing collar
and is heightened sufficiently across
the back to form narrow yoke to
which the fullness is set.
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21
After Dinner Stories

The very learned and dignifed but
unfortunate DR.. Bigner is sometimes
seized with violent and uncomfortable
spells of suffering. These spasams
are source of great embarrassment
to him and gladly would he pay almost
any sum to avoid making an exhi-
bition of his weakness.
On his vacation recently the doctor
went from his camp to the lakeside
general store IN quest of some pepper
Knowing full we'll his notifying ten.
dency, he concentrated on the word
and going up to the young and eff
Gent young clerk said: Pep, Pep
Pep, Pep, Pep, Pep"
Yes, sir, said the clerk, after lis
tening full minute. And quickly
stepping into the hardware depart
ment, he wrapped up a rowboat motor
and handed it to the doctor
Somewhat red in the face from his
exertions, the doctor accepted the mo
tor, and to hide his difficulty, paid fol
it, and taking it to his boat, attached
it and set it going. Imagine his de
light when after the first few test ex
hausts had awakened the echo. he
heard the clerks answering yell: al
right, sir. Bringing some pepper righ-
away"
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21

ordinary experience was the exposure
of fraud by Mr.. Gauntlet on his re-
turn to the United States. Everyone
remembers how the lists of missing
passengers and of survivors were
published by the newspapers.
Ii seems an old, retired sea captain,
living in Newfoundland had conceived
the idea of obtaining money on the
pretense that he had picked up float
| ing baggage of persons lost on the
| Lusitania. Using the published list
of names of the lost and even of the
survivors, he circularized them saying
| that their baggage had drifted ashore
and that for stated sum he would
forward it. 1t was a scheme likely
to attract the next of kin of the
drowned passengers. anxious to have
the effects of their lost friends or rel
atives, and also likely TO attract sur
vivors who had lost their baggage
F.: Hundreds of dollars were sent the old
captain, but there is no record of any
ones having received any baggage.
| Mr.. Gauntlet uncovered the froud
Familiar with the sea and having been
a victim of the Lusitania disaster, he
| knew the exact position of the ship
/ when she sank and knew that the
| ocean currents were such that bag
gage never would drift ashore where
the old captain said he had picked up
many trunks. Investigating, he con-
! firmed his suspicious and upon pub
fishing the facts through the Coast
Guard, saved money for many persons.
| Mr.. Gauntlett's ownership of a mod
ern navy is story unequally fascin-
ating. He learned at dinner party
in Washington attended by the Charge
d 'Affaires of the Greek legation that
Greece wanted to buy some battle
ships. He knew, as result of his
intimacy with naval facts, that the
United States navy was about to
retire two fine ships He consulted
Secretary of the Navy Daniels and
made deal. He completed the other
end with the Greek charge d'Affaires.
Then, by diligent application. he got
a bill through congress authorizing
the retirement of the warships and
their transfer to Greece.
By a curious tecnnicality Of the
transaction the two warships first
were transferred to Mr. Gauntlet and
by him TO the king of the Hellenes.
II so happened that, because of the
red tape involved, a period of two
days elapsed in which he. as a private
citizen, was the sole owner of these
two great warships. They were an
chored in Hampton Roads. each burn
ing about 200 tons OF coal a day just
to keep the boilers warm.
The deal was consumated and
Greece took the ships. But Mr.
Gauntlet often has wondered what
would have happened to him if. for
some reason, Greece suddenly had
backed down, leaving him in possess.
: ion of the two vessels.
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21
Ripping Rhymes
BY Walt Mason
LEES ROAD


Along life's road l bear my load,
which chafes my jaded shoulders;
with little rest I travel west among
the stumps and boulders. Sometimes
l shed some teardrops red, by weari-
ness I'm smitten; the trips a bore,
my legs are sore, where country dogs
have bitten. The night is dark and
must park my person in a stable,
and ere l sleep / sometimes weep as
damp and l must camp where rain
and thunder pound me, the night is
cold and l must fold a burlap sack
around me. And such is life; its
storm and strife give me the pea.
green willies; a thousand groan, q
thousand moan where two kick round
like fillies. Now comes a knave with
hand made grave, he's strongly rec
ommending; he says, Lie here, and
all your fear, and grief will have an
ending This grave" says he, 81 guar
antee to finish all your troubles; just
climb right in, and woe and sin anC
care willNfee like bubbles" Il want
| no tomb" gay; my gloom is merely
grand stand playing; I'll bear my pack
along the track, the sunshine on me-
playing Men frown and scowl they
boot and howl, denouncing life's dars
! journey, but they all balk when sales
men talk of lots in churchyards
! ferny."
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21
Recreation on the Farm

Some misinformed persons believe that the
farmer has no seasons of pleasure and recreation
and that the demands of the industry engross all
his time to the neglect of his family. While the
farming industry does entail much manual labor
that cannot be supplanted by machinery, it
nevertheless leaves many hours open for the
pleasures of social entertainment with neighbors
and friends.
This is especially noticeable at this season of
the year, when scores of family reunions and
picnics, arranged by farmers, indicate that they
do not believe in devoting all time to work to the
neglect of the development of the social side of
their lives.
Thousands of them attended the big picnics
in Wayne, Preble and Union counties in the last
ten days. attesting by their presence that they
enjoy mingling with their associates and friends,
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21

and giving their families an opportunity to get
away from their homes for an outing.
Hundreds of them have been to family reun-
ions where relatives from distant cities have
been present to show their interest and love for
the old scenes of their boyhood and glrlhood
days In many of the small towns, the annual
chautauquas are events of social nature which
attract the farmer not only because of the enter
tainment but also because men and women whose
friendships they cherish will be present
One of the main features of the Forthcoming
WAYNE county fair will be the development OF
a friendlier relationship between the city man
and the farmer. Every one believes that if ur-
ban and country dweller knew each other better,
socially and from business standpoint, the
problems of the community would be solved cas-
Ter and on basis of mutual understanding.
The cordial relationship that should exist in
every community will be established, confirmed
and maintained by events of this kind, IN which
an exhibition brings together the producer and
consumer in one place to study and admire the
products which the farmer raises in cooperation
with the beneficent blessings of nature.
Wayne county will feel new impulse for
greater achievements as result OF the fair,
The extremely cordial manner in which farmers
and, residents of the city have undertaken the
management of the enterprise is the basis OF an
understanding that will grow and develop into q
positive good for the whole community.
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21
Musings for the Evening
THE TARIFF

HE TARIFF
Mary had little lamb,
Its fleece was white as snow,
Yet rather light and worth no more
Than thirty cents or so,
But Papa was a Senator,
A Schedule ''K' he wrote
The fleece was sold for beans enough
To buy sealskin coat.
The flappers are making a hard
struggle to stay in the public prints,
but it is a losing battle and they ap-
pear on the first page with less and
less frequency.
We have heard nothing whatever of
what happened to all those June
bridegrooms.
The Bull Moose tracks seem to be
mixing UP the Republican trail some
what, and, in some localities wipinG
it out entirely.
There is a surplus in the United
States treasury, but it's a secret
Don't let Europe know about it.
The government has got out a new
cook book. 1t might be a good plan
to try the new dishes out on Laddie
Boy.
A Brooklyn colored man was al
beaten up and the judge advised hin
to keep out of bad company. 81 KANT
yo' honor" replied the man. 81 kahn
get enough money together to obcurc
dee-Voce."
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1922-08-21
By FREDERICK j. HAsK1N

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 81. =
1t has been said that if a man stands
at Forty Second Street and Broadway
he will see more interesting people in
a stated length of time than anywhere
else in the world. 1t is possible, how
ever, that The National Press Club at
Washington can run a close second to
and often exceed that notable New
York corner in the number of curious
and interesting visitors.
Only yesterday Fred Gauntlet was
at the Press Club. Many people know
Mr.. Gauntlet but not too many. He
| is as interesting as almost any private
citizen for many reasons, but for two
, in particular which are well worth
mentioning.
| Fred Gauntlet is one Of the com
paratively few men who went down
on the Lusitania-and came up again
to tell the tale Also he is practically
the only man in the world who ever
owned a modern navy as his personal
property.
Both stories deserve reciting.
Mr.. Gauntlet has for years been
Washington representative of the
Newport News Shipbuilding and Dry
|
matters pertaining to shipbuilding anc
as the company with which he is con
nected is engaged chiefly in construct
ing warships, he is especially an eX
pert in men o'war. When Germany
, was pressing the allies particularly
, hard, not many months before tht
United States entered the struggle
Great Britain needed some special ad
1ri0 of ont
5 Mr. Gauntlet, Mr.. Knox president o.
the New York Shipbuilding company
Mr. Ferguson, president of the New
5 port News Shipbuilding and Drydocl
5 company, and one or two other ex
l perts were invited to go to London tt
5 discuss naval matters. They sailed
< on the Lusitania.
Mr.. Gauntlet says he was having
: lunch about o'clock in the Afternoon
J when there was a dull thud aft. HI
! did not know what the cause was.
/ was so slight he finished his lunch
: In few minutes he went on deck ant
j noticed some signs of eXcitemen
4 among the Grew. Discovering that /;
: torpedo had hit the great liner, h
t took stock of the situation. Being al
I old shipping man, he knew instinc
I lively what every aspect of such a sit
uation would be. He realized that
4 the day being warm, every port wa
g open. He attempted to get the stew
ards force to assist him in closini
< them, but the hysteria was increasing
j. momentarily and he was unsuccessful
) Menace of Open
Portfolios Great.
Long afterwards, in relating tn
= tale he said it was obvious what wa
about to happen, The Lusitania wa
tall ship. She had three tiers O
cabin ports, all open for ventilation
The torpedo had struck in such wa
that the ship filled on one side an
! was listing perceptibly. Mr.. Gaun!
n lett knew that as soon as the ship ha