The mirror., 1922-03-30
WONDERFUL KAIETEUR FALLS
Selected

One OF the WOTluS greatest waterfalls
lies in South America, only few days
steaming from New Orleans and little
more than 200 miles inland. This natural
wonder of the western hemisphere-Kaie-
teur falls of British Guiana-is four and
a half times the height of Niagara; yet
while 100000 persons journey to Niagara
each year, only handful of white men
have seen Kaieteur.
The traveller bound for the great falls of
Kaieteur does not roll to his destination by
rail as do the tourists bent on seeing
Niagara or even those visiting the Victoria
falls in Africa. Instead he must travel
part of the way by river steamers and
complete his journey padded in small
boats, with final scramble on foot. For
Kaieteur is in the heart of the Jungle.
The start is made from Georgetown,
British Guiana, on a small steamer which
ascends the Demerara river. Georgetown
itself is well worth visit. Though in
the tropics, it is comfortable place, kept
cool by the steady trade winds we'll
governed. The streets are wide, and
through the center of many are canals filled
with enormous Victoria Regia water lilies.
The Demerara flows through low fiat
country of alluvial mud, so that the tide
can be felt 80 miles from the mouth. AT
Georgetown it is so shallow that the
steamers entering the port literally plow
through the mud and at full speed barely
crawl to, their wharves. Forty years ago
vessel was wrecked off the coast of Guiana,
and the mud has built around it until
today it is an inhabitated island covered
with tall palms. Just outside of George
town the river steamer passes the big
sugar estate established long ago by grants
from the crown.
AT the end of the first day the steamer
arrives at Wismar. The town is tiny
place, consisting of the landing stage,
railroad station, store, gin shop and
few huts. But the fact that it is the term
mus of the Demerara-E Essequibo railroad
gives it some activity.
This railroad connects the two most i'm
portant rivers of the province. 1t is, of
course, narrow-guaged and poorly built,
but any sort of railroad is blessing in
Guiana. The line runs over ground as
sandy as beach-and indeed that is what
it used to be. All the road below that
point has been built out into the ocean.
Rockstone, terminus of the road on the
Essequibo river, is hardly more imposing
than Wismar. AT Rockstone another river
steamer must be boarded for continual
ton of the upstream journey. All day
the little steamer fights against current
between the monotonous shores. AS a mat
ter of fact, one hardly sees the shore it.
self, for the bush is so thick that it grows
out into the river, leaving only lagoons by
which the interior can be reached.
The Essequibo is surprisingly formid
able stream. 1t drains five times the area
drained by the Hudson and is twice as
long. Some so miles above Rockstone the
steamer leaves the great river and en-
tiers the mouth of the Potaro, itself
stream of no mean proportions. A few
hours later Tumatumari, tiny habitation
built on hill by the side of cataract is
sighted. Tumatumari is the place at which
one usually makes contact with the Indian
guides and bearers, previously engaged,
upon whom dependence must be placed
in negotiating the last so miles of the
Journey. The short stretch between Tuna
tumari and Potaro landing is covered in
small launch, from the latter point on,
man power alone is available. A cataract
blocks the stream above the landing, and
must be passed by portage. The necessary
boxes of provisions are strapped on the
naked backs of Indians and carried for