davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1922-04-16

launching of brown as q spring and
summer color.
Last April the world was weary of
that color. 1t has worn It, in mass
wherever there was a chance for q
gown. Coat suits, top coats, wraps,
evening gowns were brown. usually
dark, deep brown. Sealskin, beaver,
summer ermine were peltries that the
furriers offered as addition to the
general movement for brown.
Then, suddenly, the world woke
one morning to rub its eyes. take
new bearings and, in a fit Of disgust,
to throw brown out of the window.
We thought its back was broken.
But here it is again. lively and glow
ing. quite animated in the new frocks
and wraps and hats.
The milliners were the first in the
field. They made golden brown tulle
turbans. They fashioned bandeaux
Of snuff brown tulle to serve as set
tings for jeweled decorations. They
made immense, sweeping hats Of brown
horsehair with exaggerated pheasant
crown.
The French collections in February
threw brown gowns into the market
places. No one failed to realize that
the color was to be reborn. All the
designers took q turn at it. Seal
brown. the tone that is almost black,
was omitted. luckily, for it does not
ma la hnf
day. 1t may not be any warmer than
French blue. but it looks it. It even
looks hotter than black.
The golden brown tones were in
troduced and they met with approval.
Copper looks cool. So does bronze.
The mushroom brown has an under
lying cream in it that keeps from
deafness.
The frock in the sketch is of golden
brown crepe, beaded in green and
brown crystals. There is no way to
avoid green in ornamentation, as
there is no way to avoid red in mil
linery. Poiret puts taupe and green
together in decorative gowns. other
designers put green waistcoats in
beige suits, and Premet and others
Of her standing put green tulle or
crystals or ribbon on frocks OF brown.
The way of ornamenting this frock
is interesting. It is not banal 1t
is used in slender bands to go about
the neckline and hang like sings from
the shoulders as an apology for the abb
sence Of sleeves.
The banding Of these wide, classic
blouses Is Grecian and AIexandrian.
The two were not far apart in poll
tics as in fashion. If one can clev-
erly use colored crystals as bands
that ds. if one can stand that type Of
ornamentation near the skin--an ex-
cellent way Of making q dull frock
cheerful 10 at hand. Any woman in
any sewing room can achieve 1t
Evening star., 1922-04-16

crocheted linen face as q finish: they
are high and rolling. with an immense
cravat in the French fashion. passed
under the hem. Butchers linen,
coarse and not always white. Is at
tached to the blouse worn beneath
coat suits and sweaters. 1t is pre-
ferred to muslin. The reason behind
the choice Is the turning back OF the
oderns to hand-woven fabrics. The
Northumberland woods, for instance,
ara the beloved weaves of the mo-
mont. and they have been patiently
hand woven and dipped in washable
dves throughout the centuries by
those north Of England people VINO
sought protection against the "lnos
+hot blew over the moors. What a
no. SAINT snuRiy wound about her head
.nd shoulders when she walked IN the
onen on her many activities Is now
worn as a skirt by the f1apper who
drives her own car to the country
club.
so II is with all the hand-woven
materials, just as homespun became
a costly and desirable thing during
the war. because luxury was taboo
in Europe, and life became utterly
primitive, SO the modern mind goes
on desiring and accepting these prim-
Evening star., 1922-04-16
Refreshing Face Treatments.

II you are frightfully tired and are
in that uncomfortable state when you
dislike the sight of your own face IN
a looking glass. try hot and cold
treatment When you are very tired,
ff YOU are at all like most women,
your face will seem to have q shadow
over It which won't wash of. the
skin will be dry, every pore will show,
powder won't stick and your hair will
not lie becomingly around your face;
in addition to which YOU will probably
notice wrinkles. It is just the time
for a hot and cold treatment.
Don't use soap. First of all wiring q
large wash cloth or an old towel from
hot water and lay it over the skin.
Then massage in a generous amount
of cold cream, rubbing 1t thoroughly
into the face and neck with the finger
tips. Then wiring the cloth once more
from hot water and hold this over the
face. Repeat this two or three times,
the last time wiping on all the cream
remaining on the surface of the skin.
Then wiring the cloth out Of cold
water, II possible from Ice water. and
hold this over the face and neck. The
treatment il more effective II you can
take a piece Of ice and finish up with
a few minutes massage with X Its
extreme cold is most refreshing ana
Evening star., 1922-04-16
MAKING THE HOME ATTRACTIVE
BY DOROTHY ETHEL WALSH.
Simple Lines in Furniture and Dec
orations Are Suitable for Simple
Interiors.

AVASs
The lines of a rooms decorations
should conform to its general scheme.
By that I mean IL the scheme is sim
pie, by all means, keep the lines
simple.
That principle may not be under
stood at first acquaintance. but lit
tie study will clarity its meaning.
Take, for instance, room suitable
to a home dedicated to an informal
mode of living. The decorative
scheme should be simple. Ornate fx-
ings should be dispensed with. Ex-
pensive, heavy furnishings would be
out of place. Complicated draperies
would dominate such surroundings.
Be 1t conceded, then, that, this fact
understood, nothing lavish will be
planned for a small interior. It is
still necessary to give care to the se-
lection Of furnishings Of simple lines
We will say that thin silk is
chosen for the draperies. The mate
rial is simple, but the style in which
it is made up should echo that sim
plicity, or the original choice will be
discounted. And should the draperies
be puffed and hung with heavy lam
brequins or tassels. it would be lost
entirely.
This principle should be adhered to
in the choice of furniture. Straight
lines. rather than those with scrolls
ana decorations, and of such a size
ss not to intrude unnecessarily into
Evening star., 1922-04-16

PoIREr DESIGNS THIS FRocK OF rAUPE AND EMERALD
TRIMMED
SKIRT HP-LENGTH BLOUSE DISTINGUISH
Evening star., 1922-04-16
An Easter Party for Young People.

Eastertime, symbolized by daffodils,
narcissi, pussy-willows. bunnies and
chicks, offers an opportunity for CIV
ing a pretty evening party for young
people. The invitations. written on
ordinary note paper, are sent out
about q week in advance. and read:
Miss Ethel Brown requests the
pleasure of your company at an
Easter party at her homo on the
evening of Apri; the 18th. at 8
o'clock"
The home of the hostess is decorated
with Easter flowers in hall and liv-
ing room (artificial ones may be used
for economy. Upon the arrival of all
the guests. the following game is
begun:
Pussywillow Contest.-The players
draw their chairs into circle. Each
one is given a pencil and sheet of
stift letter paper. on one corner of
which is pasted a pussywillow bud
to represent the body of cat
with head or tail drawn al either end
Of the bud. At signal all begin
writing as many words as they can
think of on their sheet starting with
the syllable ''cat" (for instance. cate
CORY, cattle. catsup. etc). At the end
of five minutes the papers are read
aloud In turn. He who has the most
words. receives as a prize small
plaster or china cat.
Drawing perfect chicken is the
next game played. This is great fun
for the reason that few persons pos
sess artistic. talent. The hostess an
nounces that "the Easter rabbit told
her" there was an artist in disguise
among them. "In order to find out
which one of you is this talented
artist" she goes on. Il am going to
ask all Of you to step up to this sheet
of paper. in turn, and draw per-
feet chicken" There will be howl
of protest, but all will enjoy try
ing. The sheet should be large
piece of wrapping paper hung on the
Evening star., 1922-04-16

for the season. 1t is a postwar i'm
preston. During the four terrible
years of French suffering her women
turned their minds toward making
one garment appear as several. 1t
was a good idea. The French car
ried it out successfully. No one
could do it better. A nation that can
turn a bit of yesterdays meat into
a delectable dish for tomorrow by the
use of sauce, a few herbs and a
clever brain can do anything it wishes
with materials. All 1t needs is the
impulse urged by necessity.
\ + X
coMETIMEs the American woman
- has not the cleverness to have a
ragout look like anything but yes
terday's meat. And the pot-au-feu
she concocts tastes and looks like
Evening star., 1922-04-16

their mothers. 1t was from this SEN
timental source that the fashion
spread among the idle and luxurious
classes in this country.
The young girl INDUCES in white
neckwear more than the older wom-
an as the spring breaks. But look
ing on at the arrogance of youth
leading fashion for the last few years
one comes to the conclusion that it
will lead middle age back to the
white neck line.
1t is interesting that Paul Poiret.
chief Of the orientalists, has made for
America a rough white linen frock
stitched in flag red and trimmed
with organdy ruffies. 1t is Poiret also
who has given the young girl a play
thing for her play hours in the form
of a golden brown leather jacket,
Evening star., 1922-04-16

sent several white-beaded gowns to
this country through our buyers.
which have relit the fame OF desire
for beaded and jeweled gowns. Yet
plain white. such as the Paquin frock.
is high in style. Poiret and Patou
like to put flag red with white, and
clever souls put Egyptian green
against it. 1t makes an admirable
combination. 1t is like seeing green
trees against snow-covered ground.
Curiously, white is used for cere-
mony more than for open-air activi-
ties. 1t is not offered for the rain
bow mixtures of sport clothes. These
take on every color achieved by the
dye pot. White is for the afternoon
frock, for the dinner gown, for the
dance.
Let no one think that the way is
easy when white is accepted for the
bulk of the wardrobe. The majority
of women wear all black better than
all white Even youth does not al
WAYS know enough about cosmetics
to carry off dead-white costume.
And here is prophecy: If white
takes the place of black the make
up of the face will change. Rouge
will go on cheeks. Pallor will be
disguised. Who knows but what
healthy skin may come back into
fashion?
1t may not be possible to say OF
flapper what another one said at
dinner party:
MY! What lot Of paint that girl
across the table uses" said a young
man to his pale partner on his left.
Paint" said the pale fiapper, with
a gesture of disgust. You don't think
she would put it on that badly. do
Won, The white has rubbed of"
Evening star., 1922-04-16
EFFICIENT HOUSEKEEPING
BY LAURA KIRK1GAN.

wall-so that the other players can
stuffed chicken is the prize for the
best attempt The artists" should
use a colored crayon rather than a
pencil. Three minutes only are al
lowed for finishing each master
piece"
Flower Charades.-In playing THIS
old. yet ever-new. game the company
divides itself into two halves-one
half being audience" while the other
half are actors" and vice versa. Only
the names Of flowers are acted. out
and only the syllables Of these (not
the entire word after the acting of
the syllables). For instance. Forget
me-not" is acted in some such way
as this: For" could be suggested by
four persons coming upon the stage
and simply conversing pleasantly.
Get" might be acted by one player
asking another to get him something.
me" could be implied by one actor
delivering an egotistical monologue
about himself, emphasizing IT and
ME" whenever those words occur In
his conversation. mot" is easily
acted by tying a knott in something.
Other easily acted names of flowers
are "Goldenrod." Primrose" DAISY
(Day-See), "Candytuft," "Jonquir'
(John and QuilD, and "Heartshorn."
Refreshments follow in the dining
room, where the table is decorated
by child's toy cart Gas the center
piece). to which is hitched. with rib
bon reins. stuffed yellow chicken or
duck. In the cart are chocolates and
candy eggs. The menu consists of:
Chicken Salad
Devilled Egg Sandwiches
Rabbit-Shaped Doughnuts
Coffee
Yellow Frosted Cup Cakes !.
(topped with paper f!owers)
A real tonquil lies at each place. as
q favor. These the girls may put In
their hair. and the young men In their
buttonhole&
Evening star., 1922-04-16
BY EDNA
KENT FORBES.
BEAUTY CHATS

stimulating. and will close up all
those ugly large pores. II you have
no ice spray the face with toilet water
or rub little witch hazel over IL.
Both these are astringent and stimu-
lating.
Then use a little powder on the skin
and look at yourself once more in the
glass. Your skin will be young ana
refreshed, your eyes. which were
tired. will be bright and you viii look
made over.
Jean.-You can increase your
weight by drinking plenty of milk
olive oil and grape juice will also
aid. The latter is taken three times
each day with the meals ana the
quantity is a tablespoonful OF each
taken together.
Evening star., 1922-04-16

heavily fringed. It is quite good
looking. He calls it Mexico"
As there is no diminution in the
popularity Of the young. it is impor-
tant that we should watch what they
wear and what the designers do for
them. They hold the limelight on
the stage OF life In literature. in
pleasure pastimes, in art, and it is
quite natural that they should hold
1t in fashions. They lead. The rest
may stumble on.
Undoubtedly it is with youth In
mind that France and America un-
dertook to launch white this season.
The French collections gave impetus
to the movement.
True, there are certain sectors OF
American life who regard white as
the bread of the wardrobe. They
would be astonished II told that white
shuttled in and out of the fashion.
They use it whenever the sun is hot.
Not so with those who go according
to the dictates of designers. But let
it be said to the American continent
at large that now. today. white is in
fashion.
ANY fabric may be used to carry
out the color Linen, organdy. crepe
satin, of which Mime. Paquin makes
a most distinguished frock this sea
son. several weaves Of crepe, run
ming from Chinese to Roman; pongee,
camels' hair, broadcloth. kasha cloth
and cotton net are offered for the
taking.
MO designer feels that 1t is neces-
IN sary to put black against white
this season. 1t Is done, and done
we'll, but it is not obligatory. Premet,
Renee. Beer and their followers have
Evening star., 1922-04-16

tive products. They are the fash
ions Of the season.
The rough linen. coarsely woven,
uneven in it's flow of threads, is turn
ed into the blouse and the smart
frock. It makes the collars that rise
above the dark neck line of suits and
gowns. 1t is not hemstitched. 1t is
finished with the narrow, pointed lace
that women crochet now in their
lamp-lit rooms after the coffee is
served.
THE bonnet laces OF France. 80 be-
loved by generations Of peasant
are done by American
women; some who buy point lace, il
they wish. but prefer this handmade
product. Tho soldiers brought home
bits of these bonnet laces to give to
Evening star., 1922-04-16
Copper Shades and Deeper Browns
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

Is it because the world is weary
Of black that golden brown snaps
back into fashion?
Fungi brown is one of the new
colors The varied tones of the
pheasant feather are also copied in thin
fabrics. Milliners have again taken up
the pheasant feather even though it
did adorn our ten-cent windows for
a time. The accepted method of
placing it on hat is to put it once
about the crown with its tail in its
mouth so to speak: the quill of it is
studded with brilliant or jade crys-
tails. The milliners have taken up
Evening star., 1922-04-16
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.

" HERE are certain fashions
which designers get a grip
upon and which they use ever
and anon in curious ways.
Most of these ways are far from the
source. That speaks for ingenuity.
1t also assists the public to turn it's
own imaginat ton loose.
When they see a designer find 1t
IL possible to make a girdle into a
collar, likewise scarf into a sleeve,
and also train into cape. they sit
up, look stimulated and go about de-
vising new tricks that follow in the
path of these.
All of which Is not a preamble
without a purpose. 1t is meant to
emphasize the economy of ideas
which the designers find necessary
Evening star., 1922-04-16
One-Egg Date Cake.

Cream one-fourth cup of butter and
one-half cup of sugar together, add
one beaten egg. one-half cup of milk.
one cup of white -four and one-haf
cup of rice flour sifted with three
teaspoons of baking powder. one cup
of chopped nut meats and one-haf
cup of chopped dates. Mix well and
turn into a creased and Toured cake
tin; bake In a moderate oven for
forty minutes.
Evening star., 1922-04-16

GREEN AND BROWN BEADS ARE
USED TO DECORATE THIS SIM
PIE FRocK OF GOLDEN BROWN
CREPE.
this method Of adorning the ostrich
feather. It gives one moro chance
for a woman to startle.
Several months ago those on the
watch towers saw the gradual slip
ping in Of the pheasant feather. They
realized that its reincarnation meant
something more tnAn an accident.
The reason rested in the proposed
Great Falls tribune. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1921-current, 1922-11-20
PRESSING QUESTIONS
FRESH FROM PEOPLE
WILL GREET S0L0kS
Ship Subsidy in Spotlight With Rebuilding of
Fences by G. O.P as Principal Object for Call
ing Two-Week Session of Congress; Relief for
Farmers Promised as Soothing Measure.
fy Americans regardless Of party.

! fy Americans regardless Of party.
They recall just over a year ago, the
country was overjoyed because the
president and Secretary Hughes had
taken the initiative at the armament
conference, then in session in Wash
ington and made the ground work for
a naval limitation. While it is adj
mitted that the program still remains
ITO be carried out, it also is recalled
that this is due to developments over
which the United States has no 0 n
trol-namely the Near Eastern crisis.
And it is from that very critical de-
velopment that whispers are sent forth
that another bomb shell can be ex-
pected.
Keep your eye on Lausanne" is
the suggestion that comes from sena-
tors and representatives who are il
the confidence of the administration.
They said that the observers, who will
sit in there when the Near East par
leys open Monday, will take a very
prominent part in the proceedings.
They will, of course. have nothing TO
do with any apportionment Of terri
tory involved and will demand no fay-
orite national status. But they are
expected to secure from the conference
eQudlty VI lIdut IiSHtSs plcttChiou AoI
all Americans and the agreement on
measures for the protection of religious
people.
This latter move is expected by the
president and his advisors to be an
adequate reply to the agitation in re
ligious circles throughout the country,
which has demanded that American
troops be sent to the Orient to pro-
tect Christians from the Turks. From
the Lausanne conference and the
American observers there, it is hoped
the agreements will be secured which
will make possible negotiations of Il
treaty with the Angora government
that will prove satisfactory in every
way to America without regard to
their party belief.
Great Falls tribune. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1921-current, 1922-11-20
BY JOHN NEVIN.
Especial Correspondent OF The TribuRet
lCopyrigh.. 1922. BY Great Falls Tribune

Copyright. 1922. by Great Falls Tribune,
Washington, Nov. 19.-Fresh from
the people, congress gets back on the
job on Monday. Called to meet in spe-
cial session, to consider the admin
STATIONS pet subsidy bill, the members
will reflect the 'home" sentiment to.
ward it and all other problems. 1t IS
admitted that the short session which
this special gathering will merge on
March 4, when the life of the sixty
seventh congress expires by limitation,
the administration will have the adj
vantage of overwhelming party ma
l%orities in both houses to enact legis-
lation effecting party policies. And it
is no secret here in Washington that
President Harding intends that if pos
sible measures will be passed to
remedy some of the conditions that
resulted in losses in the republican
party at the recent election.
Chief of these. it is said. will be
relief for the farmers. All senator's
and representatives, who lost out on
November z. make no secret of the fact
that a sullen and embittered agricul-
turai electorate voted against them
because they felt their interests had
not been properly cared for.
VIII Hit Cause
President Harding will deal with this
lar session. At that time he will sub
init suggestion for legislation which
will extend farm credits on a very ex-
tensive scale. The whole force of the
administration will be put behind this
ship subsidy legislation and admfnfscrn-
will be able to secure action on both
before March 4.
Usually the short session has all
that it can do to dispose of the APP
preparation bills. 1t was because he
realizes this that the president called
the fortnight's session. Working
through the rules committee of the
house. he viii be able to get the ap-
prevail of the lower body for his sub
sidy bill by November %.
This will permit the senate to take
up the subsidy bill and deal with it
while waiting for the house, in which
such legislation must be initiated. to
prepare and pass the annual appro-
priation bills. Already it is evident
that the possible effect of the ship
subsidy On the foreign relations of the
country will bring that phase of the
administrations policy early to the
front. In fact there are murmurings
among some of the senator's and rep
resentatives that 4 part. at least, of
dissatisfaction throughout the country
to the party in power may be traced
TO a belief that the foreign policy Of
The government has been weak.
This suggestion is bitterly resented
by persons close to the administration.
They insist that when it is possible to
reveal all Of the facts it will be APP
proved for the work which the presi-
dent has done.
Eiectrify Americans
The republican leaders who reflect
the administration view point suggest
that it will be possible in the very near
future for the politicians to throw a
light on the situation that will electri-
Great Falls tribune. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1921-current, 1922-11-20

system. The vast majority Of the
conservatives are returned by a
minority vote. the majority being split
hetween the labor and liberal candi
dates. The chief victims Of the sys-
fem were the liberals, whose total
vote in the country should entitle them
TO more than double their actual rep
resentation.
It also generally is a good omen that
women's vote was a dominant factor.
Last election when the women voted
for the first time, they were almost a
Unit for Lloyd George. This time they
supported the conservative ticket. 1t
seems clear the influence will be ex-
erted mainly on the side of reaction.
Yet the fact g remarkable that only
two women were successful, Mrs.
Aston and Mrs. Nottingham returning
to their seats. The experience of this
election indicates that q woman will
not vote for a woman
What will Bonar Law do with his
majority. He has promised tran
quality. but | venture to say the voy-
age will be stormy. Ihe passage IS
strewn with the rocks of unemploy-
ment, bad trade relations with France.
Europe in extremis, taxation crush
ing. Preparations a question unsettled.
TIE oyershadowing question is France.
England il being ruined by the
present continental policy. VIII Eng
land now plainly face the issue with
her ally. and put to her the alternative
that either France will agree to let
Germany have a chance at recovery,
Or England must adopt other means OF
restoring Europe to peace and pros
perity? A strong appeal to France is
urgently needed. The moment is
favorable in view of the Loucher's
advocacy of a more reasonable policy.
Laws handling of this great issue will
be the solid test Of his craftsmanship.