The New York herald., 1922-05-21

worn by hundreds who looked next to
nothing.
The mlliner meets this argument with
a superior smile, kind OF mystery
smile as one who is about to open q
jack-in-the-box to a child She shows
the new Russian hat by Suzanne Talbot
of Paris, who has given hats to the OBJ
scure corners of all the gopher prairies
on this continent. Not that the fas-
tidious Suzanne knew 1t. But neither
did we. So that's even.
Harking back to history, she has taken
the hats of men and women who have
never ceased to wear clothes that are
elemental in coloring. clothes which are
intended to offset the dullness of ~the
landscape in which they are doomed to
live, and yet as bright as the clothes Of
southern Russia, where people are like
children in their love OF lively colors, Of
buoyant and noisy dancing, of strident
fashions.
Talbot takes the cap from such cos
tunery of ancient Russia and touches it
with sufficient French delicacy to trans
form 1t into something that it is we'll
to wear. One who has not looked at old
Russian prints such as are found in the
volumes of Racnet does not realize that
this new species of Liberty cap was the
universal headgear Of those who may
have served under Peter the Great. It's
slight brim is rolled up, it's high. loose
crown has no stiffening and its mar
rowed top is turned over and toward the
front like an envelope flap.
The mbroidery on tris hat is not so
strident, not so Bakst-Pallet. as on the
other Grapes. 1t is q bit delicate when
one considers its Slavic source. there
fore, not quite true to type. It's brim is
faced with red. BY the way there Is the
presence of danger in these hats, for
there is so much flag red which women
| must rvoid who have florid skins or
lined faces.
The Lointed tiara crown is not the
only kline we copy now.
| Russ a has many varieties of drapery
The toy of a Greek key is used as the
front 10 a hat, also as cap for a
bridal veil. The veil is arranged at the
| back. On several OF the new hats for
summer there is an evidence OF this
Study o. ancient Slave headdress by the
miliners.
When one gets into the realm of head
dresses there is so much that is avail
able in the history of Rlssia that one is
tempted to forsake the idea of imitation
after going through tones of illustra-
tions. Caution is the cry when any Of
these limitations of Slavic finery are
adopted. Lovely they arc to look at,
lovely on the stage urder the coored
lights. but often debatable on the head
of the average woman going about her
daily business. The trouble of young
and initiative country like ours Is that
it's people are eager TO absorb, but often
| unconscious of the occasions for which
the originals were worn. The coat of a
bridegroom at a Cossack wedding Is not
exactly proper for a shopping tour of
Main street at ii A. NJ. on hot day.
still Glimpse of Britanny.
Among the orgy of exotic hats for
spring there remains bit of old Breton
headgear. 1t is sprightly and colorful.
without looking theatrical Caroline
Reboux Of the Rue de la Psjx. in Paris,
was the first to insist upon the sailor
hats that were common on the rocky
coast Of old France. Lanvin kept up
the fashion. To-day there are enlarged
versions of these saucerlike hats. saucy
things such as children once wore. the
brims roundy upturned. the crowns
wide ard somewhat high.
There is a new one of red and white
leather which is built In spirit OF
sympathy with the desire for those two
colors wherever fashionable folk
gather. The brim, faced with red is
broadly scalloped at the upper edge
and the two Breton ribbon ends float
from the back. No hat worthy of the
Brittany influence omits these two PEN
nants that flew from the masts OF
sturdy wooden fishing boats.
Not Free From Arabian Nights.
Russia. Poland, Brittany, italy are
represented in the new hats, also Arabia
s11I fx.e At.t ~ x..tl
linery in their grasp. The Oriental roll
that Lanvin started as a girdle last
August. which was uncannily suggestive
of colorful snake wound about the hips,
went upward in its career to the neck
and the hat brim. Indians always wore
II as finish to the Immense turban
wound about the head and caught with
jewel---so did George Arliss when
Roshanara the Indian dancer, made II
for him In "The Green Goddess"
The eager desire for 1t has subsidized.
but II trails glory behind It in departing.
Its successor Is not so Oriental. but its
source Is unmistakable. IL Is a fanciful
roll about the brim of a wide crowned
turban, sometimes in the shape Of bee
hive. Ribbon supplies il, also metal.
lace and sometimes fabric. A red straw
beehive turban has no other brim but
thickly fluted edge of red ribbon
shells DO you remember how the negro
servants OF other days and ways fluted
the white tablecloth in cross lines when
there was TO be some one special for
dinner? Well. that is the way much of
this new ornamentation looks.
One can praise II Unfortunately.
II Is apt to rest heavily on fr-giie
face and 10 add unpleasantly TO the
strength Of n large face. Don't buy II
| reckIcsgiy IL appears on many of the
cheap copies of French hats.
| One Of the new notes struck in the
millinery experiments Is the use of fine
gold lace on black straw. dark crepe de
chine or transparent horsehair. The edge
OF big brim is frilled with fine line
OF this metallic trimming. the crown is
surrounded with curious patterns made
Of ~ these are substitutes for flowers