davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10

dunn of tiny collar, an edge of lace.
a vestee. pleat or frill the Bertha may
fill long felt need since 1t will ac-
complish the desired purpose. the
while 1t is in the prevailing mode.
There's wide range, both in materials
and styles-the former organdy lace.
net and embroidery: the latter vary
ing both as to width and shape The
background for the Bertha collar is
usually gown of simple lines. not
infrequently a bit old fashioned In APP
pearance. Quite evidently this is done
that the dress itself may not distract
the attention from the loveliness Of
the collar. As one may readily see,
with the all-the-way- round collar in
the picture as an example. it is a
fashion that has possibilities for the
home dressmaker. She may make
many clever variations offthe Bertha
for herself. and check off several
names on her Christmas list with the
same idea in mind. If line OF un-
relieved white is not becoming. there
may be broken lines at the shoulder,
showing the dark material beneath
If the all-round line, whether white
or colored. is unbecoming. the collar
may be pointed back and front or
over the shoulders. If white Is un-
becoming. ecru may be substituted.
or the material may be metal lace
lace touched with color, net with
colored embroidery, or lace and en-
broidery. 1t is an elastic mode,
adaptable. and filled with clever pos
sibilities.
The panel collar takes varied forms.
combining frequently with the Bertha,
so there's panel front or back;
Bertha back or front: or panels both
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
WITH A BLOUSE TO MATCH

n UTE the newest characteristic OF
the three-piece suit has to do with
" the blouse. which is now made.
very frequently, OF the same material
as the skirt and Jacket, even when
that material is heavy wool. The idea
of skirt and blouse OF the same
fabric has this advantage-worn to-
gether they give the effect of one
piece dress; separated, blouse of
some other material may be worn
with the skirt, thus making two cos
tunes in one. One French house fea-
lures sports costumes In rough wool
novelty mixtures. with skirt and
blouse of the same fabric. The models
are simple. with little or no trimming.
and fit snugly about the hipllne.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10

"CCESsORIES fall naturally into
two classes-those that are
wholly decorative and those
v j that are both practical and dec
orative. 1t is with the latter that we
are now concerned, whether 1t be
with an eye to personal adornment or
the Christmas gift that should be
practical yet just as beautiful as may
be consistent with it's practically.
How often-when buying a frock for
daytime wear-the prospective wearer
wholly overlooks the neckline, or
passes lightly over its ugly. unbecom-
ing ways with an assured that can
be fixed." But it's safe to say that
that same fixing" later presents a
problem that it takes both time and
thought toSolve. For several seasons
now, two fashions have obtained-the
round or bateau neckline, unrelieved
by collar or trimming of any sort, ex-
cept. occasionally, some finish in self
color. While many wear the round
or bateau neck with great success.
others find 1t most unbecoming. and
1t Is the same with the collar-less,
colorless neckline. During this period
many women. who follow a fashion,
becoming or no. simply because it is
"the fashion," have been unbecon-
ingly dressed, for the simple reason
that the neckline of their gowns has
seemed unfinished, even queer. But
others. who adopt a fashion in its
entirety only when it is becoming.
have mitigated the severity of line or
solid color withs bit of ATTRACTIVE
neckwear that had the lines and the
touch of color the dress did not. Just
now. there Is a distinct inclination to
soften the bateau line. and the SUI
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
edge, while tho mink wrap keeps

edge, while the mink wrap keeps
strictly to the straight line silhouette.
Huge collars characterize them both,
and both show the possibilities of
seal and mink in the hands of a
skilled workman, The beauty of
both wraps depends more on the lines
brought out by the skillfully matched
mink and the contrasting landings
on the seal than on any other single
detail And since this is a season of
fur trimmings as we'll as fur wraps.
one must needs note the fur bands
on the panels of the beaded frock.
and the ur-edged velvet gown that
the mink wrap compliments. The ono
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
Furs Are the Exquisite Medium of Expression
Emp1oyedBy the Cleverest Artist-Designers-
Wraps Especially Present Interesting
Studies in the Individuality of Lines.
I'M of Expression

muskrat. They're not SO beautiful,
as natural. perhaps, but are made
really lovely by the skill of the artist
In furs who cleverly combines their
striking markings into really hand
some garments. Coats made of these
practical furs appeal especially to the
motorist and the all-round sports
woman. whose need is rather more
for the practical. than for the beauti-
ful at the expense of practically
1t is quite true that the coat of fur
seems an expensive luxury. since 1t
must be remodeled frequently and
kept in perfect condition, if 1t Is to
give the utmost in satisfaction and
service. But 1t is the type of luxury,
which, by virtue of that very service
and satisfaction, more than pays its
way, thus making 1t no luxury at all.
Paradoxical-but true The modes of
the present season are more varied
than they have ever been, for fashion
has set the seal of her approval on
many widely different furs; on both
the short coat and the long coat: and
on the cape, the wrap and the coat.
The vogue for brown quite naturally
stresses sable, nutria, mink and
beaver, but not to the exclusion of
squirrel, mole and Hudson seal.
Persian lamb and broadtail are strong
in the mode. especially smart in
straight line. full length coats or
wraps.
The Vogue For Caracul
And then there is caracul-most
prominently featured of all the fash
ionable furs. in both short and long
coat models. Caracul itself is the skin
OF rare little animal. whose habitat
is India and parts of Africa, and its
natural colors range from fawn, a bit
reddish in tinge. through to brown.
This fur is one of the most adaptable
that the designer has yet found, since
for coats, coates and trimming pur-
poses 1t is both pliable and supple,
lending itself most admirably to the
purpose in hand. Models In all the
favorite furs are widely varied, en-
bracing several prominent style de-
tails in diverse ways-sleeves wide at
the wrist; unusual shoulders; huge
shawl collars; gorgeous Innings; orna-
mental girdles. buckles, clasps and
ornaments, the outstanding features.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10

"CCESsORIES fall naturally into
A two classes-those that are
wholly decorative and those
y that are both practical and dec
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
WRAPPING THE CHRISTMAS
PACKAGES


H Q small part of the pleasure of
the Christmas gift is the look OF
= the package itself, yet too often
the wrapping is last minute thought,
hastily. even carelessly done. And it
is so. easy. when buying greeting
cards. to include in the purchase It's
sue and heavy paper. as well as the
seals. Irvine. cord or ribbon necessary
for making an attractively wrapped
package. Then when it is time to
get the packages ready, there Is real
pleasure in beautifying the gift itself.
whether 1t be practical or luxurious.
Apart from the usual red, white and
green of the Christmas season, there
are two other wrapping schemes wor-
thy of consideration. The color
scheme may be the favorite of the
sender. or, If one wishes to go to the
extra trouble. each gift may be
wrapped in the preferred cdors of
the recipient.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
nIlIlllI

fur is much lovelier for the contrast
with the other. Whatever ones fancy
her wish may be gratifed, and she
may fare forth to shop. to tea, to
the matinee. quite impervious to chilli
ing winds or stormy weather. her coat
or wrap a thing OF beauty and JOY
well. not forever. but at least SO
long as it is fashion. And when an
other season brings another mode.
clever hands will change the lines;
add detail here or a detail there;
and skillfully change Its entire APP
pearance. More than any other gar
ment, the fur wrap makes us friends
with winter.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10
sure AN extended vogue for Its use
as a-hat material.

sure an extended vogue for Its use
as a-hat material.
Street Coats Simple And Dignified
The pictured model of street
coat, developed in caracul. IS digni
fed and smart, through its very sim
plicity. An all-enveloping collar.
slightly widened sleeve edge and un-
usual shoulder and sleeve lines are
the modish details that give it its
effective air of charm. No collection
of street coats would be complete
without at least one pert little coatee
of squirrel. mole or caracul. and this
time 1t Is mole, in one OF the new
models that blouses into a hip band
with suggestion of a surplce effect.
Two fancy buttons at the belt and
touch of contrasting fur at throat
and wrist are aquite sufficient for It's
ornamentation.
Sumptuous Wraps or The Cape Type
The evening wraps both follow the
cape style. and prove how versatile
the type may be, both as to lines and
general effect The cape of seal flares
widely from the shoulders to the hem
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10

new and interesting, and the finished
garment is rather more like cold
weather coat than any type Of sweat
er we have hitherto possessed.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1922-12-10

premacy Of the unrelieved neckline
is threatened. 1t may even he wholly
displaced by two new aspirants to
favor in the neckwear rank and file.
One of these aspirants Is the Bertha,
the other the panel collar. but both
were designed with a single aim and
object. This they achieve through
the lines and materials of which
they're made For the woman who
has attained the desired feminine
touch on her gowns through the me-
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
DC. CHIEFS GUST
BUREAU ASSISTANT

Letters bitterly criticising the Dis
trict Commissioners and other on
cials. discovered in a waste basket
in the ONCE OF Leo s. Schoenthal.
chief inspector OF the department of
weights. measures and markets. yes
terday caused him to be summarily
dismissed from the service Of the
District.
The letters were taken TO COM
missioner Oyster. who summoned
Schoenthal. The inspector admitted
authorship Of the letters and after
a meeting of the Commissioners was
dismissed without opportunity to re-
sign.
Schocnthal states that he mas long
sought the position OF his chief.
George NJ. Roberts, superintendent
Of the department. and had made
application to Commissioner Oyster
for the position. He has been In
the District service twenty lone years
He is said to have written the
notes for publication in The Goat"
a magazine designed to be issued
soon in the interest OF District en-
ployes. Schoenthal admits having
considered the position of editor OF
the periodical. but declined II. A
probe OF the department by the Com
missioners as a possible result OF
the dismissal.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
U. s. Will Protest Any
Oil Monopoly In Russia

The United States will protest
against any monopoHstic plan
which may be evolved at the Genoa
conference for exploitation OF oil
or other resources of Russia. -
2 Despite denials by. Krassin that
the Royal Dutch Shell group had
reached an agreement for develop
ing the oil fields of Russia. the
feelinE Is growing among oficials
here that IL an agreement has not
actually been reached, the matter
has been under discussion. and II
Is believed that interests seeking
the monopoly will not easily aban-
don their attempts. -.
Information in the hands OF ad-
ministration oficiaIs was - In
definite yesterday that they did
not care to comment upon the
situation for publication. 1t was
pointed out. however. that the
granting of monopoly rights to
any nation or company would not
only be In violation Of the open
door principle which the United
States has enunciated, but would
also be In direct antagonism to
the view expressed by Secretary Of
State Hughes In the American re-
ply to Italy's invitation to par
ticipate in the Genoa conference.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
MARRIAGE
M LICENSES.

Unless otherwise specified, all the follow.
ing applicants are from this city.
Carl B. Gueldenapfel. 20. and Maud
Chase, %, of Middleburgh. N. Y. Rev. b
D. Hayes.
Percy II. Davis, 81. and Marian h. Fry
berger, "a. Rev. r. W. johnson.
Alfred II. Burgess, IS. and Lois A. With
row. 27. both OF Clifton Forge, Va. Rev
]. e. Briggs.
James @. Tihman, q. Of stauntons- Va.
and Virginia Pollack. 10, OF Huntington,
W. Va. Rev. T. q. Davis.
James W. Butler. Al. and Mamie L. Perry,
81. Rev. W. J. Howard.
Washington Brooks, 70. and Elizabeth
Jackson. %. Rev. 8. Miller,
Edgar Kelley. %. and Luenie Cavenor. n.
Rev. d. =. Wiseman.
Alton MCLAUGHLIN. IS. of Cameron. N.
O.. and Mamie Young. 20. of Durham. N,
Q. Rev. A. sayles.
George j. Clemmer, 81. and Eunice T. L.
RubeI. 20. Rev. J. T. Hudde.
John A. odil. 80. of Clarksburs. Mo-,
and Lettie Trump. Il. Of Baltimore. Nd
Elmo p. self. q. and klva O. Sale. IL,
both of Fredericksburg. Va. Rev. n. Y,
Downs
Frederick Goodaii. 81. and Marie Lee,
%. Rev. W. J. Howard.
Earl s. wormley. p. and Cleo Martin,
q. Rev. Wv. Dorsey.
10 Rev. W. Fantroy.
James c, Kottes. %. and katherine N.
Kline. q. both Of New York, n. 7. Rev.
J. 3. Briggs.
Hisle. %. Rev: J.. =. BriEv.
Va. and Dorothy D. FineiIe. 10. Of Round
Hill. Va. Rev. O. G. Chsppeii.
William =. Hobson, %, and Ruby L.
Nichols. IS. both Of Richpond. va. Rev.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
AID CLUB is GUEST
OF EVENING STAR

Members OF the Washington Ad-
vertising Club and the Better Busi-
ness Bureau were entertained yester-
day by the Evening Star at its new
home. Luncheon was served IN the
clubrooms on the eighth floor of the
new building.
After luncheon the visitors were
conducted through the plant in groups
OF ten by officials OF the company
and veteran employees. Visits were
made TO all departments. and the
working details of each department
were explained 10 the visitors by
their guides.
PreJident Frank W.. Noyes well
coined the guests Of the company
at the luncheon and received their
thanks: expressed by Harry W. Hahn,
president OF the Ad Club. r. b. H.
Lyen. chairman Of the Better Bu.i-
ness Buteau. thanked the Star for
IFS Cooperation. = - -
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
Cabinet Rebuffs Barthou,
And Sticks to Belgium

PARIS, May 3.-The French cabi-'
net unanimously agreed today to
support Belgiums refusal to sign the
peace. proposals, offered to the Rus
SLAMS.
Albert NJ. Barthou. head Of, the
French delegation to Genoa, who ID
now In Paris. had outlined the sitS
uation. Premier Poincare felt
France had left Its ally. Belgium
alone. All agreed France must stick
to Belgium. despite NJ. Barthou's
warning that the action might break
up the conference. ...i. -,
The cabinets action 10 regarded
as a rebuff to Barthou. Although
Quai D'Orsay announced Barthou
will return to Genoa Friday, ru-
mors are current the delegate will
contract a diplomatic illness, pre-
venting his departure.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
JURY FINDS OFFICER MORGAN
GUILTY oNLlQUoR CHARGES
Signed confsssi6n Convicts Depossd Police
man-Tobe Sentenced Saturday.

declared that he signed Il believ-
Ing IL merely to be the exoneratio
OF others whom. Capt Brown. OF
No. ! precinct had thought were
implicated. 4. +..
Capt. Brown testified that Nor
gan freely admitted his guilt on
the day OF the arrest and signed
the confession Of his own voli-
tion. II was testified that a small
quantity Of iieuor was conhscated
In Morgan's room.
Ohicer Worreli testified that he
approached Morgan on April 10
and told the convicted man he
had q party on for that night
and wanted some liquor" Accord :
ing to Worreil. the two, went TO
the vicinity of Morgan's beat,
Seventeenth and. H, streets north
west. where the saie Of liquor was
made. the sum of s12 being paid.
The money, WorreH declared, was
marked.
Morgan declared that he was ap.
preached by Worrell and asked
where 1iQuor could be obtained.
He said his answer was, What
do you think ! am. q bootlegger!'
He stated tf'at he nnally told
worreIl he knew, OF no such place
and denied baving sold any. 70 the
oficer. i.sS'.
Capt. Brown said that, when
Morgan was arrested and brought
to Precinct No. 8. the marked
money was found on him and that
worreii turned over the ,"bootleg''
whisky.
Orieefs Rose and Msnsfield also
corroborated the testimony OF the
governments Witnesses. T..
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
Mrs.LejeuneM Marine Head
OF SalUatioH Army DriUe

Mrs. John A. Lejeune. wife Of Mai.
Gen. Lejeune, commandant Of the
Marine Corps. has been named to
head the committee to conduct the
Salvation Army budget drive in the
Marine Corps Her activities will
also include the 'Quantico. va, bar
racks. .:-.. .-.s,
Activities in the army units around
Washington will, be conducted by Mrs.
Rivers, wife of-the commanding ON.
GER at Fort Myer.' =
The following chairmen have been
appointed to conduct the drive IN
their respective stores: Kann's, Miss
Mary W: Sigman; Lansburgh's ~ Miss
Ida NJ. Thrasher; Palais Royal, Mrs.
M. I. Reiners: Goldenberg's, Miss
Dorothy Deggs; Hecht's. Miss Carl
ena Walker. -
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04

8 MEN INITIATED

rUnkind skies tried TO spoil tho
Aimas Temple parade yesterday and
failed. with bands biaring. the
shriners, most OF them in full re-.
gala. and carrying vari-colored toy
balloons. left the Capitol Theater.
marched through the rain to the
White House and back In the best
OF spirits. b..
The parade was in honor OF I'm
perial Potentate Of North America
Ernest A Cults. In the van was
the Oriental Band. in picturesque
white and red Next were the au-
tos bearing Imperial Potentate
Cults and l. p. Stewart, potentate
of Washington Afnas Temple. Then
followed Potentate of Norfolk Nc
Nulty; Potentate Dudley, of New
Jersey: Potentate Brownley. Of
Baltimore, and Potentate Schmidt,
Of Richmond.
seven-Hosr Initiation.
Behind the potentates came the
Arab Patrol In uniforms of red
gold and green; then the. Almas
Military Band. the Saracen Guards.
the Giee Club. the Drum Corps. the
Legion of Honor. the. candidates
who were initiated last night. and,
lastly, the mobiles of the Shrine. /.
In the extreme rear. waving TO
friends along the line of march,
was Call Ne Henry" Lansbupth.
past potentate Of the Almas Tenn
pie.
Initiation ceremonies at the
Capitol Theater were from Z D. m
until a. m. Forty-eIght were
initiated. At the ceremonies were
twenty-one Senators and l26 Rep
resentatives.
Chsnee to Get Convention.
Washington stands an excellent
chance of getting next years con-
vention, Imperial Potentate Cults
declared at a banquet in his homo,
at the Raleigh in the evening. He
said between $4,000 and l0o. 900
Shriners would come from all parts
of the United States and Canada.
Cults described the humanitarian
work of the Shriners. :
we are now engaged in pro-
viding treatment for 4se.oOo Grip
pied children throughout the coun-
try" he said. Seven hospitals for
crippled children are now being
constructed. Next year we hope to
build fifteen hospitals. Eventually
We hope to have one in each city"
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
MILITARY WILL AID
Music WEEK HERE


Cooperation OF the army and
navy has been promised to the ex-
ecutive .ctmmittec. In charge of
Washington's music week. MAY IS
June Q. both for the preliminary
campaign and, during the week IT.
self. Army. navy and Marine Corps
bands have already been assigned
to play at the stadium concepts at
the Central High School, which also
will consist of vocal music, com
munity singing and other features:
A series of sunday evening con-
certs in the Central High Schca
auditorium has been arranged Thv
navy band will play May z. Marine
band May 81 and the army music
school band May IS.
These concerts will begin at 8
o'clock. No admission will be
charged. Seats will be reserved for
holders Of season tickets for the
music week.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
FIGHT TO MAINTAIN
FULL FACILITIES
OF NIGHT SCHOOLS
Members of Commerce
Chamber Committee
Pass Resolutions.
URGE RAISES IN PAY
Oppose Any Curtailment in
Curriculum of Educational
Institutions.

Opposition to the curtailment of
the number of studies offered in
the night schools was recorded by
the committee on schools Of the
Washington Chamber of Commerce
yesterday.
The committee passed a resolu-
tion opposing any curtailment in
educational facilities in the Dis
trict of Columbia, and opposing
particularly the proviso before
Congress which removes third and
fourth year subjects from the
night school curriculum. thus pre-
venting the granting of diplomas
in the night schools.
THE alien adult is offered edu-
cational opportunities" explained
Henry w. Classic, chairman. "And
yet Congress proposes to say to
the American. because you have
by force of circumstances, or
ignorantly, or even wilfully neg
lected your education while you
were still in a position to attend
the public schools, you must pay
the penalty of lifelong ignorance.
There are innumerable cases
where young men and women after
they have left the high schools
wish to go to higher institution.
Denying them the night school
privileges leading to a certifcats
will preclude any such advance. 1t
has been my experience that those
students WHO have gained their
education through their own ef-
forts are always the most diligent."
The committee reaffirmed the po-
sition previously taken by the
Chamber of Commerce. advocating
increase in the salaries Of teachers
in the District, and heartily ap-
proved the principle of the pending
teachers salary bill.
The Washington herald., 1922-05-04
ROBSON DEFENDS
INCREASE IN TAX
RATE OF DISTRICT
Replies to Protest of
Board of Trade at
City Club.
LAUDs CITY PARKS
Representative Lin thicu u m
Urges Conversion of Marsh
Lands Along Anacostia.

with residents OF the District fac
ing an Increase in taxes, Repre-
sentative John NJ. Robson, of Ken
lucky. In an address before the
Board Of Trade at the City Club
Nast night expressed the belief that
residents of the District are in a
much better position than they bel
lieve they are.
The speech OF representative
Robson came on the heels of a
protest by the Board of Trade
against the conferees amendment
on the District appropriation bill.
Members of Congress are think
ing Of those back home who are
helping to pay the taxes of the
their hometown when they vote
on tax legislation" he said.
Urges Care I'm Indor.ement..
Representative Otis wingo, of
Arkansas, touched briefly on the
tax situation. He spoke Of various
resolutions being presented to
trade bodies and indorsed by men,
bers, many OF whom were not IA
miliar with what they were indors-
ing. He urged that members of
the Board of Trade be careful in
their Endorsement Of resolutions.
The bill authorizing a survey
along the Potomac River, now be-
fore Congress. was explained by
Representative J. Charles Linthi-
cum. Of Maryland.
"washington's park system should
be an inspiration to all visitors" !"
he said.
Urges Marshland Conversion.
The Representative urged that the
marshlands along the Anacostia
River be converted into parks and
supplement the Districts water
supply by the Great Falls reser-
voir.
Congress was urged in 4 resolu-
ton offered by Odell S. Smith to
continue the bonus for government
clerks.
DR.. D. Percy Hickling, chairman
of the committee on public health.
spoke on the pending legislation
for pure milk for the District. and
William Knowles Cooper described
the memorial to H. B. F. Macfar-
land T. ]. Saunders spoke on the
Lee Highway. Thomas Bradley.
president of the board. presided.