The New York herald., 1922-05-14

from which hangs square cnlHon Veil
that hangs to the floor at one side. AT
those medieval balls the women wore
their hair In two long plaits over the
ears, and the bride of June can carry
out this effect without causing criticism
by putting punches of short curls there.
She wears her hair after this fashion,
anyway, If she is anywhere near the
front row of fashion.
Very little. If anything, Victorian
takes its place among bridal costumes.
If one desires the hoop skirts of the
Eugene period there Is sufficient au-
thority for them, but they are far bet
They act as obstacles to grace in the
various ceremonies she must perform at
the altar. They are not easy to man.
age when getting in and out of the car
riage before the crowds that stand at
the door awning.
1t is possible to say that the fifteenth
century inspires the majority of brides.
The extraordinary head dresses may be
taken from, any country at any period
of It's history, but the gowns are straight
and long, half fitted bodices extending
to the turn of the waist into the hips.
The neck line Of these bridal frocks
Is not bateau. France helps us to dis
card that long continued oval, which
was also taken from the Renaissance.
along with sumptuous sleeves and capes.
There is a definite movement back to the
square decolletage and a newer one to
the fiat yoke of the sos and '90s. The
yoke is around three inches wide and
gayly embroidered with glittering bits
and threads without color, or 1t is big
enough to cover one-third of the bodice
and Il reminiscent of the Merry Mon
arch's costumes. 1t may be of lace, IL
precious, but 1t is best not to gather 1t.
Plaster 1t on. Pull the hem straight
and even across the arms and chest.
Not only bridal frocks are finished
In this manner. These collars, or ber-
thas, revived by Jenny Of Paris, are to
be the desirable thing. In organdie, in
butchers linen. in the material of the
frock, such accessories will be in first
place In summer. 1t cannot be possible
that the concerted effort of the design
ers and ultra smart women Will not
change the appearance of the neck. All
but the most stubborn agree that It's
high time we were getting out of rut.
The collar people want place In the
limelight.
At Least One Orgnndie Gown.
Suddenly It has become the fashion to
include one pictorial organdie gown In
the trousseau. The French sponsor the
material with such enthusiasm that
Americans take 1t up here and there,
even though they realize its fragility.
Trousseaux. however, are not intended
to do more than surprise and delight
ones friends for the first season. so why
not one alluring frock of organdie. one
like a certain bride has In red and
white?
1t Is one of the few models of this
material in the long tight bodice that
reaches below the waist. The skirt has
two deep fiounces edged with scallops.
Tho rest Is a mass of scallops. That's
the first impression. And all these
curves have dots above them, dots done
in bright red cotton thread. There is
one of the new wide collars and the
partly low neck. also dotted and seal
loped at the hem. or course there's a
bright red hat with II. No self-respect-
ing trousseau does without one. Ribbon
ends fly about the figure like tendrils.
Evening gowns for the summer bride
are apt to be full skirted and tight
bodiced. Those who take strict account
of fashions realize that the immense
skirt without hoops has been definitely |
accepted by young womanhood through |
out the country. though the minority |
that are supposed to rule In New Yorks |
social life Is not much given to this type |
of gown. Washington girls and young |
matrons wore 1t last winter in prefer
ence to the long waisted, straight
skirted frock that touched the ankles.
Despite the criticisms hurled against Il
as II appeared In the beginning. hooped |
and artificial, II. in its simple form. has
gained many friends. It is offered by |
all dressmakers for the summer season.
France makes an especially smart,
IL startling type of this evening froclS.
which Is included in a notable trousseau.
The bodice Is of black satin. running TO |
the hip line to join a skirt built OF so
many layers OF bright blue tulle that II
suggests the ballet skirts. Where two
garments join there is a girdlo of large
pink roses
In direct contrast TO this footllght |
frock there Is severe dinner gown In |
the same trousseau of almond green
crepe with a long waisted loose bodice,
the prevailing type since last autumn. a
slightly full skirt, n sash of Persian
width and splendor. the fabric rose silk
bordered with green roses. There Ia a
bracelet of these fabric roses on the arm
above the elbow.
All Of which substantiates the fact
that no one style dominates the others
this spring. and the same generosity and
Is expected throughout tho
summer. Which in It's turn proves the
lack of powerful leadership. France has