Atlanta tri-weekly journal. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1920-19??, 1922-01-07
Conquer;ug Mount Everest

r T has been definitely settled, by careful
reconnaissance, that If Mount Everest Is
to be climbed the ascent must be made
in the Sprine of theIyear, and that is the sea-
son selected by General c.. G. Bruce's party
: for the attempt to be made in 1922. There
is too much rain and fog in midsummer, and
the early Fall finds Winter setting In. The
!. start will be made from Darjee.ing about
March 81, but the more difficult part of the
/. clim. will not be undertaken before the mid
die of April:
statement has been issued by the COM
mittee having in charge arrangements Tor
the expedite that sets forth the difficulties
= o. the expedition, as follows:
This years reconnaissance has shown
that the approach to the northern
branch of the northeast arete is not to
= be difficult; and the drete itself looks
Z; quite possible; but 1t is long and steep,
windsWept and inhospitable, showing no
very obvious shelter between $4,000
feet and 10000 feet. Evidently it will be
a tremendous task to establish camp
anywhere above the COL The committee
= propose to equip a climb bling party OF six,
with the intent that natural selection
should operate in finding the three or
70 four best fitted fo4 the last stage of the
ascent. endurance and power Of resist
ing cold will probably count Tor as much
as skill in the refinements of, noun
q taineering and much will depend on
knowledge of how TO, make a comfort
able camp in the worst possible con-
ditions. For these reasons the committee
will try to secure at least one of the
party that shall have had polar ex-
perience.
It is by no means certain that the expedi-
ton will succeed in it's attempt indeed.
there are many experienced mountain climb
ers, includin. Alpinists like Mallory who re-
gard the expedition as forlorn hope. They
believe the difficulties of the ascent insur-
mountable. Certain it is Everest cannot be
co4quered without facilities for supplying
oxygen to tie climbers.
DR.. A. M. Kellas, an authority on the loft
Ter Himalayas who cas- made some notable
ascents, in a paper which he read before the
Royal Geogl graphical Society few years ago,
took the view that without portable oxygen
containers Everest could not be climbed.
The supply of oxygen at the summit of
Mount Everest is only one-third of that sea
; level, in the opinion of this authority, and
obviously the supply must be reinforced ar
tiicially as the peak of the mountain Is
reached.
Gin Glaisher and Coxwell's balloon asceAt tc
$4,000 feet (which is the heigh. of Everest)
both men," remarked DR.. Kellas, became
paralvzed and then >i4~isher became insensl-
!, BILE. The conclusion from balloon ascents
must inevitably be that an ascent of Mount
Everest without adventurous aids would be
quite impossible if the physiological condi
tions of mountainous and balloonists are
. comparable. They are not comparable. how
ever, as the balloonist has no opportunity fo1
. becoming tcclimatized to high attitudes"
But it should be remembered that while
e the mountaineer has more o. less opportu
nifty for becoming 'acclimated, he must under,
go violent exercise in pressing onward ane
upward TOWARD his goal, and this tax upoI
his physical strength will place the climber
on his last reserves as he Eears the summit
of the mountain.
: The attempt to conquer Mount Everest ap
q peals to the imagination of the explorer anc
T. the laymeA alike, and the expedition of th'
Bruce party will be watched with eager in
-terest throughout the world.