Evening star., 1922-10-08

york fashion correspondent Fifty
wears ago. and her
| "Jennie June" letters from that city
ra were eagerly read by
VI S"e"ions' washingtonians FOR
the latest hints on the styles Of WON
ems and sometimes mems garments.
In The Star of October ], 1872, is
printed one Of her articles. which may
give the readers Of today q notion OF
the difference between the fashions
of that period and those of the pres
ent:
THE stores are full of new goods
and lately received garments. bui
nothing is easier than to make a mis-
money gone, nothing remaius but to
abide by IT. The difference as yet be
| tween the spring and the fall is OF
material only, not of form. 1t is the
polona.se in black cashmere instead
| of buff hatiste. embroidered with silk
| instead of linen and trimmed with
yak instead of linen lace. There Is
a slight variation. however. There
| is the choice between the polonaise
| and the dolman. the latter being
and wide sleeves. much longer and OUT
| of all proportion to the body. Bui
who ever heard of fashion paying any
| attention to proportiono
What is called the latest style.
though it is old as the hills. is an
| nounceG as a 'talma with SASH II
is. in reality, a mantelet with s!mu-
lated hood and long. rounded ends
crossed in front and tied at the back
! like a Marie Antoinette fchu. 1t is
! made in black cashmere lined with
black silk and trimmed with broad
| black lace.
Yak, or wooden lace, is one Of tho
novelties. 1t is made to initiate Irish
, point. and very effective for trimming
fine wooden suits and costumes. IL II
shades OF color. and costs from 5"
cents to $3.50 a yard. according 10
width and fineness, the range averag
ing from one to six inches.
Quite a change. and not becom-
ing one, has takensplace in the wear
ing of the hair. IT is now mounted
high on top OF the head and a rev
pipe-stem curls arranged to I'LL up the
fat space at the bsck. The Jose
phine' is the name by which the new
style is known among the initiated.
Gen. Grant took little part in the
campaign for reelection in 1872. be
ing of quiet dis
Presidents as position ano NOV
Speechmakers. public speaking.
The Star in its issue of october d
1872, prints the following comment
upon presidential speechmaking;
THE liberals in taking such eiaeo-
rate pains to show that the Presl-
dent is not a fluent speechmaker are
unwittingly doing him great sersice VIC.
with the American people. The Glft
of CAB is a very handy thing for
| public speaker. lawyer or
preacher. though even with those wh"
use the tongue professionaliv the
greatest fiuency as an on-hano ae
claimer is not generally associate"
with the highest degree of ability
But In an executive officer. and espe-
cially the highest executive onicer w
the nation. there is no gift SO rata
or so out of place as facility OF word
delivery. There was the case OF
Andy johnson. He brought TO me
White House the unlimited resources
of CAB shat had made him Formidable
as stump speaker He was per-
fectly irrepressible How he aston
ished the world by a maudlin speech
on the occasion of the second lnauGu-
ration of President Lincoln is wei
remembered, and he had hardly set
foot in the White House before he
entered upon that diarrhoea OF
speeches that so confounded report
ers and publishers. and which were
only minimized in number and guam
tity when the latter made desperate
stand and refused to print them II
is recorded that in one day Andy
delivered no less than twenty-seren
set speeches to unhappy visitors at the
White House. No poor devil OF a
postmaster could go up to see about
his Office but A J. would back him
up in a corner and proceed to orate
to him about the Constitution and
the state of the nation. 1t is easy to
see. in reviewing the list of our Presi-
dents. that the lightest and most
crotchety and impractical have been
fluent speakers. while the ablest have
been comparatively silent men. JEFF
ferson and jackson represented the
one class and Tyler. Frank Pierce and
Andy johnson the other. 1t is no
discredit to President Grant that he
ranks with the former rather than
the latter. in having the gift or
silence rather than the shallow-pated
fluency of utterance."