Arizona republican., 1922-06-29
BY MARJORIE KINNEY
Supervisor of Clothing, School of
Household Science, Pratt lnsti-
tute. BROOKLYN

The first step for the home dress
maker in selecting a design for a
new gown is to study her own fig
ure and decide what will bring out
her good points and cover any pecu-
liarities of her proportions and col
orihg.
The right choice of materials goes
far toward reaching this result.
small, slight person can wear almost
anything desired, but large, heavy
or middle aged woman must choose
more carefully.
She must not select shiny satins,
stiff taffetas, crisp organdies or
heavy woods which will not take soft
folds. Rather she must choose wools
like serges or tricoti2s, silks IKE
Canton or crepe de chine, chiffons,
georgettes, and almost any cotton
with the exception of organdie
which should be left to the young
girl.
Generally speaking, plain colored
materials are in better taste and
more becoming than figured ma
terials. The plaid gingham which
looks so attractive in the shop sell
dom makes up into a stylish dress.
and all materials printed with large
figures, as foulards and voiles, are
delusion and a snare
Spotty Designs Difficult
If the design is spotty it is diff
cult to plan the dress so that the
spots are symmetrically placed, and
if ones figure is at all unusual IN
proportion-very snort very tall,
very full--the figured material will
only accentuate this.
If your heart is set on a figured
goods choose one with small pat
tern which practically covers the
surface.
Never choose materials printed
with checks stripes or plaids. as the
printed pattern seldom follows the
thread of the textile and when one
attempts to cut a dress one must
either cut "off grain or not follow
a stripe line.
A woman is well dressed il her
clothes suit her and her needs, and
generally conform to style. So II
you find a pattern very becoming
don't be afraid to use it over and
over.
Study Your Figure
You can vary it using different
kinds of materials and colors; py
changing sleeves from short 10 long
or full to tight: by varieties OF neck
lines and collars and by new and
interesting trimmings. At present
MANY dresses are trimmed only on
sleeves. and on belt or girdle.
One Ideal Dress
This sketch at the left is good
example of a dress that can De
adapted to many designs. 1t is a
piece dress made for a youns
girl. 1t is cut on kimono lines ano
though simple in design, if becom-
ing materials and colors are chosen
it is charming. The neck line and
placing of the belt must depend
upon the individual.
This dress is sand colored ratine
with stripes of blue and tan. Only
an average figure should wear such
decided stripes. Instead of making
short. fat person look taller II
calls attention to their unusual pro-
portions.
older Woman's Frock
The sketch at the right is partlcu
larly designed for an older woman
with full figure. The under slip is
cut like the old princess slip, rather
easv fitting, and with only straps
over the shoulders. The front of the
camisole ton is shown as mod
esty.' and the sides of the coat dress
are slit to show the skirt.
This dress is a heavy tan cloth
bound with braiT only a shade dark
er. The under slip is the shade OF
the braid binding. the buttons
smoked pearl shading into tan. and
the buttonholes bound with braid.
From neck to waistline the dress