The Holbrook news., 1922-10-06
Short Jackets
 Have the Call

Then, too, the summer sweater usual- ly Is so thin that the ugly line Of short-sleeved dress shows halfway down the sleeve of the sweater
 Practically every woman knew that some sort of jacket was needed In place of the old-fashioned loose coat-sweater that did such good serv- ice in bygone years, but she waited patiently for the great designers in Paris to launch this idea. Her patience was rewarded by the clocki coats
 It may have been that there was no material sufficiently inspiring tc the mind of the designer until Ro- dier brought out his fabrics In blis- tered effects. This would look like reasonable supposition, since the varf- ous creators of clothes selected clock almost simultaneously for the short separate jackets which they succeeded in popularizing almost over night. for the demand for these jackets Is very great. It is not to be supposed that any one with any imaginative genius would stop with one sort of material for a new type of coat, so they have gone on from this material to others.
 Two-Tier Pockets on Model.
 Notable among some late models in the short separate coat is one in white satin clocki. trimmed with border of black satin poppy petals loosely applied. This jacket Is smart when worn with a black crepe maro- cain skirt and black outdoor hat. It makes a most distinguished costume. and one which will be eagerly seized upon by the woman who is desirous Of getting away from the set type of sweater and skirt and sweater and overblouse so universally worn.
 Madame Jenny, who so successfully caters to the well-dressed American. has found her greatest success in the separate coat in a model developed in white satin clocki trimmed with black suede, which takes the form of a border around the collar. pocket bindings and bands on the sleeves She varies from the usual coat pocket by making the pockets in two tiers. that is, two on the right side just above the hip, one directly above the other, and she repeats this treatment in breast pockets.
 No great dressmaker has overlooked clocki in making up her mid-season or early autumn models. A twO-pfece suit with hat to match by Worth is developed in this material in citron yellow, a shade frequently used in suits earlier in the season and now prominent in both suits and jackets
 A very striking jacket in black zenanna is typical of the short. sep arate coat as exploited in the fashions of the moment The black background sets off to excellent advantage multi colored embroidery on the sleeves. collar and pockets.
 One would naturally expect that something more practical in material. but similar in cut should follow in the wake of these glorified outing jackets because, when a fashion suddenly flames up almost over night, as it were, and takes such a tremendous hold on the public In general 1t has somewhere in its composition some of the qualities which make best seller. and no progressive dressmaker or manufacturer is going to relinqulsh such a profitable garment until every idea that it contains has been exploit ed to the utmost. So for the autumn these magnificent coats will be fol- lowed by more practical ones of wool. many of them knitted after the fash ion of the old-time sweater-coat
 Several great dressmakers have gone still further with this idea and have made skirts to match these jack cts, especially in the wool things. Worth has a model with the jacket knitted in wool in plaid effect-gray. white and black. The shawl collar on the jacket and the cuffs and girdle are of gray.