Middletown transcript., 1922-11-18

EufiS prOHilSeS winter season OF
lavish decoration. observes a fashion
writer In the New York Times. II ones
frock be somber, 1t must be enlivened
with crisp flowers or vivid girdle. II
your evening gown be stately, let 1t
slip off either one or both shoulders.
and hold 1t securely with straps Of
tiny flowers that litter with silver or
gold. If ones suit seems the least bit
businessiike. 1t should be embroidered
with steel beads or strips of fur in
vermicelli pattern. Above all things
one must avoid the obvious, and have
ones frock beruffied where rufIles
might least be expected. or beribboned
and gayly buttoned in unusual design.
AS an expression of the vivacity of
his costumes, Worth has chosen the
tassel. which may seem oldfashioned,
but which really has gone through
many stages of rejukenation. They are
used alone or In groups, of large di-
mensions or of small, of silk, of satin,
OF metal or beads. but in every case
they are the natural complement of
. the gown they adorn. Especially love-
ly ones are made Of blades Of metal.
which are used on street frocks, and
one evening gown BOASTS three long
tassels of tubed crystal.
Brandt hangs tassels by slim cords
or timely wrought chains and tops them
with exquisite embroidery or braid Of
contrasting :hade. And With the
prevailing vogue for superficialities of
trimming, ribbons have gayly come
into their own. They offer width to
slim skirt lines and width to abbrevi-
ated hens. Encrusted with wee flow
ers, or variously braided, they wind
their gala way between bobbed tresses
or crown more stately cOiffures. BY
attaching countless narrow satin rib
bons to the shoulder and catching
them together at the waist and guild
Ing them gracefuliy to the wrist, where
they are caught by silver cloth
wrlstband. Martial ct Armand have
created an otherwise simple evening
frock for the jeune file. When silk
ribbon is padded and attached to either
side of a silk skirt it lends the soft
II
graceful flare.
Originality in Sleeves.
The designers are finding the sleeves
field for originality Nothing that
could be done to Il sleeve mas been left
undone and if ore Should feel that all
that can be said Of sleeves has long
ago been said he must hcarken to the
words of Jean Patou, who decorates
one tightly fitting sleeve in suit coat
with epaulets of rich fur. Alice Ber.
nard fits her cuffs tightly to the wrists
and permits them to flare, funnelwise,
ut the elbows. Jenny has varied this
theme by adding to the flare cuff
liOunce uLon ilounce of the same con-
traSting material. In an unusual gown
of cigar-brown velvet, which is one of
the most favored OF colors in Paris,
Jenny has terminated tight-ftting
sleeves just below the shoulder and
held them in place by narrow bands of
the same material, which radiates
from collar fitted closely about the
neck
Lanvin iares her sleeves at the
! wristband and weights them with silk
taSSels. Sleeves are trimmed with
wide ruchings and full flowers. and
sometimes sleeves almost decline the
name, for they begin at the wrist and
refuse to reach farther than the elbow,
despite the bewildering coaXings of
crisp blossoms ard narrow strips of
| fur. Occasionally one finds Il gown
which, in place of Il sleeve. has merely
huge cuff placed on the bare fore
arm. And lace mittens have returned
to complete the quaint character of
the sleeveless street frock IL 1t be
made with full skirt and tight bodice
as in the days of poke bonnets and
anklelaced slippers.
Collars. in the hands of the Partisan