The New York herald., 1922-07-30
Flowered Designs Predominate
in City as Well as Country
Fashions.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.

Copyright, 1922. by Vogue. New York.
"HE poet who sang OF the charms
of his lady when as in silks
! my Julia goes" would find
abundant inspiration In the streets OF
New York this summer. Everybody
goes In silks, often light of hue and
amazingly varied In design. The city
as well as the country is radiant as
never before with flowered chiffon and
silks. with hardly a hint of soberness.
Fashion, with a fair for the much
talked OF international spirit, has bor-
rowed colors and motives from all
countries, and we see. vending their
way In and out of town this summer,
dresses graceful in length. subtle In
line and glowing with color.
Indirect but none the less powerful
Influences on the summer MODE lot
town are the war and the rise 10 iahne
and fashion Of our own Long Island.
In the strenuous, brave days OF four
and five years ago, when noplesse opllse
came to have a new significance, fash-
ionable women left their country places
and came to town regularly during the
unfashionable months Of July and Au-
gust. With this change of habit came
a change of thought. They realized
that the accepted dark dress or suit
which had always been considered the
only correct thing for town and which
was worn with an expression OF well
bred martyrdom, was desperately un-
comfortable--and looked 1t. This was
the objectionable sin.
Long Island, at our very doors, In
spite of the protest of many old fami-
lies who strove to keep 1t simple and
unpretentious. has become as fashion
able as Newport. Frequent trips to
New York are now definitely part of
the life of the summer. for in these
restless times within motoring dis
tance" means an almost unlimited num-
ber OF miles. And no longer will the
woman of fashion who has recently
learned wisdom accept the heavy for
nality of serge and taffeta for summer
wear.
New York No Longer Dull.
New York can no longer be accused
Of looking dull and dreary during the
summer. The city has become CAV
with brilliant awnings. toile de Jouy
covered walls and fragrant flower
boxes. And it abounds with charming
smart places where one eats midsum-
mer food In cool quiet.
These restaurants and roof gardens
Scem to have been designed as a back
ground for the new and distinctly fem
inine note that has crept into summer
modes for town. Bright colors and
subtle shades lend touch Of mystery
end romance. and quite in harmony are
the lovely vivid crepes and chiffons of
the fair patrons.
The background of the city itself. to
be sure, is always formal, but chiffons
and silks, however vivid their designs,
possess a certain attractive formality OF
vheir own. Indeed. the mode this season
s not only more formal but more elab-
crate than in the past, with 4 silhouette
tending to absolute fatness in the back,
skirts draped In the front and the waist
line slightly raised. In many daytime
gowns the neckline opens in a point,
higher In back, a reaction against the
bateau neckline. Many afternoon gowns
have sleeves that are fairly short and
are worn with light colored suede gloves,
which are wrinkled halfway to the ell
bow. A cool and charming example Of
this type of frock Is the frock Of printed
chiffon. having long lace sleeves and
worn with a large, transparent hat. and
another frock. all black lace over black
chiffon. has a softness and grace which
only lace can give. BY the presence Of
frocks like these 1t has been most ap-
parent since society appeared in early
spring at the races that the more femi-
nine type of dress holds It's own
Definite limitation in the matter OF
fabrics are still observed. Chiffons
figured and plain georgette crepe and
crepe gaufre, plain and figured, are ia
bo worn in town. and on an exception
ally hot day one does see few tub
frocks. These muslin dresses should be
worn only in the stronger shades, how
ever. such as navy blue, red and black
and white figured, and never in the pale
shades, pink. blue or green. This year
the possibilities of the cotton frock are
vastly increased by the vogue of chintz
and toile de Jouy. One especially charm
ing model Is of white batiste and cre-
tonne with unusual applique embroidery
Another substitute for the black so long
IN favor is white. A white matelasse
top coat, sometimes trimmed with mon
key fur. may be worn with a colored