The Jasper news., 1922-09-21

the soul Of woman. She must have
something for street wear-and that
as soon as the cooler days arrive. AS
a matter Of fact, even while It is still
hot, she begins to think of heavier
suits, II only TO cheer herself along.
II by purchasing a new fall suit she
can hurry along more comfortable
living weather, then that is what she
wishes to do and, at any rate, she can
make herself believe that she Is ap-
preaching more nearly more livable
weather.
There are two interesting suits, both
made along somewhat the same lines
with that long. hip-length jacket that
has been so popular in Paris all sum-
mer and the short, straight peplum
added to. that for a finish.
One suit has more of fanciness than
the other one, but then that is q way
the French designers have. They love
to introduce a few plaits and some
embroidery plus inserted or appllqued
material in order to pull the suit out
Of the strictly tailored class. They
can no more bear to leave that suit
untrimmed by some slight fixing than
they can attempt to make dress
these days without side fiouncings and
panelings. They must have their suits
classed among the more informal ar
ticles Of apparel before they can be
truly satisfied with their appearance.
This suit is made Of brown gabar-
dine In one Of those very darkest Of
shades that are becoming more and
more popular leading up to fall. It
has rolled revers front to the jacket
which speads into a quite ample col
lar which, is appliqued with a bit Of
dark blue silk upon which are en-
broidered an everything area Of glIsten-
Ing silver figures. This trimming Is
then repeated In places above the far
ing cuffs and insertions inserted under
the arms and above the low-lying belt.
There are pockets on the narrow pep
lum made of series of folds and fin
ished by little rows of decorative but
tons attuned by their design and col
oring to the harmony of the rest Of
the costume.
Figure Determines Skirt Length.
The skirts Of these suits are quite
plain, with only enough fulness al
lowed them to make them ample as to
tit and hang. They are neither too
loose nor too tight, but they have the
happy faculty Of carrying out the line
OF the coat perfectly and to the last
degree of design. They are long. Yes,
all Of the never skirts are longer than
they were and. though these have not
reached any ultra length, they are still
reaching down toward the ground with
recognizable perslstency.
There is much to be said In this
matter Of skirts with reference to pro-
portion. Much depends upon the
height and general shape Of the indI-
vidual who wears them. The skirts
take their length and lines from a pre-
established contour of individual fig-
ure. They are subject to a harmoni-
Gus adjustment with reference to
other details of the costume and the
purpose for which 1t is being worn.
Another little, long-waisted short
coat is the latest development In dark
blue serge. You know 1t is perfectly
impossible for us to face a new sea-
son without some characteristic devel-
Opment having made itself felt in this
standby material, this favorable fabric
for all women whose wardrobes must
be called upon to suit many occasions
and many times.
Well. the blue serge suit this season,
II we are to listen to the French. will
be softer even than usual, and II will
have many points Of interest usually
more characteristic of the dress than
the suit. AS shown in newer models,
the coats will be long-walsted and
there will be some sort OF trimming
that will help to enliven the general
appearance Of the costume.