Evening journal., 1922-01-27

NEW YORK. Omitted Press).-
Among the materials and fabrics
which are being shown for the
smart Spring costumes we find the
gorgeous 'hatik."
Few OF US know. perhaps. the
meaning OF batiS. And yet that cam
oufaging Of white materials by the
use OF colored paints and wax, has
been the dream work of dozens OF
American artists. No press or ma
chinery can create designs OF such
exquisite colorings and shadings Of
colors
Batik had its origin on the Isle
OF Java, where native artists dis
covered the beauty or hand-painted
designs on white linen cloth. Amer
ican artists saw the possibility OF
utilizing this art on crepe de chimes,
vclvets and chiffons and found amaz-
ing results.
wit hthe introduction OF this art
in America. we saw negligees like
spun gold rejecting brilliant Aut-
urnn tones; blues fading into laven-
ders and into deeper tones that are
as nameless as the colorings OF
desert sunset. The hatik artist strives
TO sell his work by personal order
rather than by the wholesale route.
He feels that he must work some
thing OF the personality OF the
wearer into the gown. Each person
suggests 10 him a different blending
OF color and certainly colors can
express moods. personalities. Grey
Tor instance, suggests tranquility.
simplicity: lavender, quaintness;
rose. cheerfuiness; black. poise; etc.
Today every lovely woman has in
fact a blending OF all OF these quail
tiles. Thus the artists logic Of the
costume OF batik.
For brunette what could be
more exotic than a gown beginning
at the neck line with a pale yellow
fading imperceptably into gold,
thcn into dun orange which ends at
the hem In a deep. ruddy brown,
the whole gown cracked by means Of
wax to simulate the fabrics Of an
cicnt origin and having a indistinct
design throughout?
CfAfThI NnWIErAAf nANMrf anu
gown houses now employ their own
batik artists. Most Of these are more
nmid in their use Of colorings than
the-artists whose sole aim is TO satisfy
his soul rather than his appetite.
Those OF US who feel this same tim
idity IN IN eusage OF batiks for street
wear will surely satisfy our desire
for them In the sanctity OF our
boudoirs-
One OF the most charming three
piece costumes seen on Fifth Avenue
this season was made OF French blue
duvetyne with a three-quarter length
cape manteau. The border OF the
cape and OF the bottom OF the skirt
was OF grey fox about eight inches
wide. A silver chain held the cape
flat at the front waist line and a
huge bunch OF purple violets com
pleted the effect The turban worr
with this costume was very Russian
in its high severity OF line and die
its best to conceal the little bobbe,
locks OF the young matron VIII
wore H.
Wide sleeves OF Russian and Per
sian design continue 10 reign su
preme IN the sleeve world Occasion
ally they are caught in al the wris
by a narrow band, but always fhey
are naring. For afternoon and
evening wear the gowns often are
sleeveless
Suits have so hidden themselves
with fur this winter that they bare
little resemblance TO the nat lapeled
suits Of past seasons.
The Spanish effect produced by
the hanging OF wells on hats Is van
ishing with the first flakes OF snow
The upturned brim OF FUR is really
more becoming to the American type
Of beauty and increases in popular
ity. Felt hats embroidered in odd.
" shaped bits OF steel are new and
.
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