Great Falls tribune. [volume] (Great Falls, Mont.) 1921-current, 1922-05-31
THE RISE OF T

New York. May 2S.-New York is
low in the grip of a pastry wave Sec
ond only to the crime wave in scope
and power. Never has the demand for
pastry been SO great; never the supply
50 conspicuously in evidence. Window
displays of glittering pastries, in a be-
wildering variety Of colors, designs and
~nationalities, tempt the passerby on
every hand; new pastry shops are
springlng up all over the city, and even
the drug stores now serve cream puffs
and chocolate eclairs.
Consequently, many public spirited
citizens who are already worried about
the trend of the race, are in a panic
OF apprehension. What, they demand
sioomily, a be expected of a people
which goes in for such g~astronomic
orgies! How can we hope to develop
q race of supermen on macaroons and
Boston cream pie? Is it not time,
they suggest, that a new and powerful
reform organization be formed to com
bat this pastry-eating vice which is
surely destined to turn the good-natur-
ed but indomitable American people
into a d%olorous tribe of ~dyspeptics?
Pastry is apparently a popular sub
o'..u'e AoA li4uoI' Az any Fdlc, II Is
estimated that its consumption has in
creased 33 10 per cent since the pas
sage of the eighteenth amendment.
Farmers are not the only sturdy
folks who eat pie for breakfast nova
days. New York business men perform
that courageous feat, also, as an early
riser can see by gazing in the giant
window of n of those famous %restaur-
ants, so numerous throughout Man
haitian, that Irwin Cobb has likened to
a goldfish bowl. Furthermore, the cold
slab of breakfast pie is merely a drop
in the New Workers. daily bucket of
pastry rations. From this mild begin
ming. he goes bravely on to d%oughnuts,
%eclairs, spice cake. napoleons and other
monumental pastries. The young man
Club who had to eat so many cream
tarts has lost his pathetic charm for
us. There are too many pastry fiends
in New York who daily Guido his spec
tacular record under no sinister COM
pulsion at all.
All Hail the Doushnut
Before the war, ~doughnuts were COM
paratively scarce here. They were
the far downtown districts, or by Ger
man bakeries up in the Bronx. They
were totally ignored by the best hotel
menus. Then the Salvation Army
started feeding doughnuts TO the dough-
boys. and the great revival started.
New York is now full of tiny street
kitchens which have capitalized the
Salvation Army idea and are selling
coffee and %doughnuts to crowds of ap-
preciative patrons.
The sudden increase in the demand
for pastry. however, is noticed princi-
pally in the large hotels. The chef
in one such establishment who for
merly had a daily pastry record of
5000 pieces turns out 5000 a
day, or more than $4,000 separate pas
tries a week. His annual total is
somewhere around the 100000 mark.
He could. he believes, easily outline
the equator with the chocolate eclairs
he has made.
He is a French chef. and he is nat
urally prejudiced in favor of French
pastry. but he is willing to admit that
America has made a noble contribution
to the pastry internationale in Boston
cream pie. Always luscious. this deli
cacy is now likewise becoming exquis-
lite in the hands of the artists in cream
and sugar who work in the kitchens of
the big hotels.
s much smarter than apple pie"
he exclaimed approvingly, pointing to
al iridescent piece of the Boston vari-
ETY.. land vet always it is the apple
for which we have the most demand.
It is, of course. the dietetic corner
stone of your republic. But why? 1t
lacks distinction. II is dull. We can-
not beautify it for it becomes soggy.