The New York herald., 1922-10-01
Paris Finds Creations for Every Need
Shown in One Dressmaker's Collection
This COuturier includes Every
thing FROM Riding Clothes
to Evening Gowns.
Copyright, 1922. by Vogue. New York.

Copyright, 1922, by Vogue, New York.
~ NE of the most complete col
~ lsotlons ions. shown shown in nj Paris n is that
of Jean Patou. for it contains
all the essentials of a wardrobe, from
riding clothes to the most formal eve-
ming gowns, for every age from six
teen to sixty. The woman who could
not find model to suit her in this
collection would be one of those i'm
possible people who are never pleased,
Tor the Patou gowns have the great
merit Of being extremely easy to wear.
Their creator lives in the center of
the movement of his time, and his
mind is sensitive to the fluctuations
in the pulse Of modern life. One feels
In watching the procession of his
models that they have been created
by one who knows every phase of a
smart womans existence and who is
ready to satisfy the most varied needs.
Does she plan New Years holiday
at st. Moritz? She finds here a win
ter sports costume, designed by some
one who knows st. Moritz in winter
and so it goes.
Sensational changes must not be ex-
pected here. for Patou believes that
the development of a mode is a slow
growth, and he is right In thinking
that the really smart woman no longer
desires to be conspicuously novel in
her attire. Close study of these mod
els reveals again that complication of
cut, hidden under apparent simplicity.
which is one of the most marked char
acteristics of the new winter models.
The taiileurs have coats of different
lengths, some short and straight, some
long with godet movement on the hips,
and many of them have immense fur
collars Often the long ones conceal
gowns which are made up of several
different materials. One model was
In seal brown velvet, the frock being
of velvet and tan crepe, with touches
of dull green and dull red at the twist
cd girde.
Gowns are On straight lines, but there
is ample fulness for comfort in their
apparently narrow skirts. Evening
gowns are draped, and many of the
daytime models have slight drapery,
which does not interfere with the supple
ldatural lines of the body. The waist
is placed, where most of the designers
tplace it. at the beginning of the hip.
Sleeves are interesting and usually
have gauntlet cuff effect sometimes
at the wrist and sometimes at the ell
bow The sleeve which is a little fuller
above the elbow. with long tight cuff
coming we'll over the hand is AZ favor
lite. Dance frocks may have very short
sleeves. The ''muff sleeves of some of
the coats are amusing and comfortable.
Jean Patou Is tired of serge and does
not care for the velours de laine which
so many other houses have used. He
uses instead duvetines tricotines, fancy
woolens, and an immense amount of
velveteen. Some handsome taileurs and
coats are made up in silk broche or
matelasse materials. or in a new heavy
satin called "triomphante." He also
uses some of the very heavy crepes. For
afternoon gowns. heavy silk crepe, silk
velvet. and crepe jersey are favorites
For evening, colored velvet coored
silk crepe. some very supple new bro
cades, fine laces. and crepe jersey are
used. His evening frocks are often
finely beaded and a speciality is the
fine. round metal bead which has been
used heretofore for Little bags.
Color runs through the collection,
but black is used for the street, almost
always lightened with colors some
where. The leather tones lead for day
time wear. with the dark browns and
tete de negre. There Is some dark
green and a little navy blue. Flat Ori-
entail embroideres In which several
bright, but harmonious tones are COM
bin. d, are a feature of the collection. |
The top part of three-piece suit. seen
when a dark jacket is removed. Is apt !
to surprise us with its brilliant color. |
Some of the rich Rodier fabrics have
been used for them. the cashmeres and |
the embroidered woolens.