The New York herald., 1922-04-02

We eventually took up the very short
skirt, but not until II had become an old
story In Paris. And, having taken 1t UP,
we loved 1t so that we were loath to give
Il. up.
One clever French woman explains II
20 her own satisfaction and to the sat
isfaction of other French women who
!, ok on with amusement at the Amer
ican and her out of date American skirt.
''They are too bashful r. says she. "They
rre as bashful about going back to
,ong skirt after they have worn short
cne as they were about wearing short
one about five years ago."
Really 1t is not quite bashfulncss. II
e an innate Anglo-Saxon conservatism.
But the time has come now when the
conservative woman. II she wishes to
show any regard for fashion, must take
10 the heightened skirt. For street suits
and frocls It may still be eight inches
from the ground, but this is long enough
q show striking contrast to the skirts
that we considered smart last spring.
The skirt with panels that touch or
trail the ground is in good style for
evening, formal afternoon wear or elab-
crate house frocks. Much Is made of the
Uneven skirt that shows a ragged hem
line or long panels placed over shorter
underskirt. But the skirt that Is full
ard long all around is not out OF the
picture.
Our artist in Paris said II have
never seen such long and such full
skirts as those shown by Lanvin In
taffeta and organdie." And she also
emphasized the large tassels hanging
from ono pocket Of the little short
Jackets and the organdie cuffs on the
sleeves. linked together with cord and
balls.
Here II the Truth About Sleeves.
Infinite variety exists In sleeve de-
sign this spring. You might elect to
wear almost any type Of sleeve that has
ever been worn by women and find a
counterpart OF 1t in more or less modi-
fed form In the sleeves shown In the
new clothes. They are full and they
are narrow: they are long and they are
short; they are set In small armholes
or in armholes that droop down to the
waist line.
Callot has been stressIng sleeves that
are tight round the top of the arm with
rufiie or flare at the elbow. Cheruit
makes rather close fitting sleeves of the
same length with a roll OF material at
the elbow. Every well known dress
maker has given us some new sleeve
| idea, end Americans have added to the
list.
But bear In mind that the sleeve OF
the tailored coat or suit is always long
and tight Usually IT is tight to the
wrist. though some of he French taiiors
are making Jacket sleeve with a flare
below the elbow. In any event the
tailored Jacket sleeve Is made skin tight
at the shoulder This Is essential to
good style. 1t IS made with three but
tons Tapped at the wrist.
Though the long waist is still with US
the tendency Is to raise 1t. and therein
the wind blows favorably for American
women. With US the long straight
waist line with the hip belt or girdle Is
difficult detail TO manage. The tend
ency here has never been to do as the
French woman does who pulls in her
hip girdle so that she looks as II she
could not breathe The French woman
did this I'm order TO emphasize the Inn
mense fullness OF material above the
hips.
Distinctly the hip ceinture OF metal
or beads is being thrown into the dis
card. II was perhaps too easy a way
for makers of frocks by the hundred to
give finishing touch to long wasted
| frocks. Sometimes a band of beads or
metallic embroidery Is placed at the bot
tom Of wide. draped girdle. But this
4 IS quite di1erent from the INKS ana
chains that encircle the hips and then
send clinking ends dangling at the side
That sort of thing is no longer smart.
Lanvin's new trick of encircling the
\ hips with an immense roll OF material
Is just an indication that we are still
under the spell of the Orient. The pro-
totype of this girdle is the enormous
serpents that the Hindu snake charm
ers wind around themselves when they
want TO entertain Europeans sojourn-
ing In the Orient
When Mile. Jane Renouardt. the
\ French actross--who always had as a
| background last summer at DeauviIlc
tho Crown Prince of kapurthala--wore
a Lanvin gown showing this type of hip
belt In the form OF an enormous roll OF
silver cloth the other night Ia Paris, the
audience applauded before she had
spoken her first lines. ft was the first
time that an audience paid such hon.
age 10 a gown. But to do so was es-
| sentially Gallo.