davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
, 1922-10-11
BIG SLEEVES AND MUCH FUR
Many Arm Coverings In coats on
kimono Style; Some Set In
With Square Armhole.

Simplicity Of line, handsome mate
rials and warm rich colcring are to
mark this autumnS coats.
Fur trimmings will be lavishly used.
In colors there are the standards,
as usual, and a few novelties such as
a new medium shade of gray. Bur
gundy will he seen. too, we are told.
Straight models will be liked, some
with a little added fullness in Shout
der plaits, which allow a slight fare
at the foot.
One Russian blouse effect shows n
novelty in the blousing being used
only in the back, the fronts being cut
double breasted. One side fastens
over the other and is caught with Il
handsome steel clasp. A narrow belt
draws the front of the coat In some
what, giving a slightly fitted effect.
All coat sleeve are v~oluminous,
many In kimono style. and some set
In with n square armhole.
Metal embroidery, narrow braids In
relf shades, and stitching. VIII be seen
a great deal this autumn. according
to the trend of New York fashions.
, 1922-10-11
BAGS OF PAISLEY
Late Style Accessory Is Made Of
Bits of Old ShaWls.
Black Moire Most Satisfactory All
Around MateSaI; Beaded Models
Have Passed Away.

The little hand bags nre so m
turn, and yet many of them r IN
beautiful. One has to hunt and hunt
before coming upon anything wholly
pleasing and satisfactory. Either
they are too beautiful to he efficient
or they r too efficient to be classed
among the beautiful. Is there any
thing worse than one of those bunchy
bags, crowded with too much material
and looking like a badly wrapped
bundle?
Some Of the newer bags are made Of
Paisley-bits Of the old shawls-and
they are most satisfactory. They are
lovely bits Of color, to begin with, and
then they are made so that they have
spacious enough interiors to make
them feasible carry-alls for the woman
who must have some pocket In which
to put the helpful appliances for her
outdoor makeup. Some Of these
Paisley bags are beaded along the out
lines of their patterrs with rows of
steel beads and the effect Of that extra
touch of work is a charming addition.
There Will be q steel beaded string
with which to carry q bag of this sort
and often a steel tassel or two is used
for a finish at the point where the
shape of the bag ends.
The black moire bags are perhaps
the most satisfactory all around and
they are chiefly notable for the frames
upon which they are mounted and the
f.--- - $500 ---- ---l - ----
them together. The one big value of a
black bag is that 1t goes with ever.y-
thing.
Beaded bags, unless they are ex-
traordinarily handsome, have passed
away as a, strong asset to the toilets
of a smart OF course, there
are those finely wove purses of beads
without Innings which are 81 extremely
colorful that. they will often be chosen
TO help out a costume just because Of
, 1922-10-11
FUEL VALUE OF FATS
Butter and Cream Are Most Important
In Diet Of Growing Children
Nuts Are Good.

Fats and fat foods, such as butter,
lard. suet, table and cooking fats, oil.
bacon. salt pork. pork sausages. choc-
olate, cream, and all nuts, except the
chestnut, have a higher fuel value as
a class than any other group of foods.
Fats add flavor and richness to the
diet. but since they are such concen-
trnted fuel foods, are often used in ex-
cess Of the amount needed. Milk fat
Is a particularly rich source of Vita
mine A. Butter and cream are therefore
far more important than most other
fats In the diet Of growing children.
Some of these fat foods, for example,
chocolate and nuts. contain generous
proportions Of protein and mineral
substances.
, 1922-10-11
oLD-sTYLE TRIMMINGS LACK
Fine soutaching, 6ralds. Buttons and
Belts Again In Favor for
Milady's Wear.

In trimmings, a marked revival of
interest in the old-fashioned passe-
m~enterie motifs stands out as the
chief note to signal. Fine soutaching
and an extensive use of fiat braids
in plain and in fancy weaves is noted.
Fancy metal braids, and metal run
or metal bead braids figure among
the novelties.
Buttons are used chiefly as orna.
ments. They are very large, in bril-
liant colors and are deliberately
carved. Many lacquered buttons
ornamented with gilt figures in Chi
nese designs are shown.
Braid buttons, fabric covered en-
broidered buttons and small, cut jet
and steel buttons, are the chief types
used for Jackets.
Large, ornamental plaques in carved
composition or in steel are used Oh
tailored dresses
Belts are ased much less this n
than during the preceding season.
Steel beaded leather belts appear as
the chief novelties. The general trend
is for belts which are simple and
inconspicuous.-Dry Goods Economist
, 1922-10-11

delivery during stated periods is large
ly responsible for the irregularity in
the daily receipts at Jersey City. II
shippers would consign some of their
lambs, particularly the lower grades,
to other markets, where there is a bet
ter outlet, 1t would do much towards
remedying the undesirable coalitions
ct Jersey City and New York. Feed
ing stations established in the East as
reservoirs from which to feed the
market as supplies are needed also
were mentioned as a means for rene
dying conditions,
Producers and commission men rec
ommend that local and Western
slaughterers cooperate by endeavor-
ing TO reduce the volume Of their d.
rect shipments and their shipments OF
Western dressed lambs to Jersey City
and New York from Middle Western
markets at periods when gluts are
known to occur, in order to insure a
supply no greater than the demand. 1t
was also suggested that live stock
commission men advise their patrons
as to when gluts usually occur and
when there are good reasons to believe
one will occur, explaining fully what
happens when undesirable and unfin-
ished lambs are sent to the Jersey City
market.
1t WAS recommended that retailers
feature lamb in their advertising and
selling efforts during the period OF e.
cessive receipts and give consumers
advantage OF recessions in wholesale
prices. Any steps taken along this line
would encourage consumption and
tend to check price fluctuations.
Personnel of Committee.
Although the movement Of native
lambs to market will soon be complet-
ed for the current year, the conference
was unanimous In its desire to work
out plans Immediately which will in
sure more orderly marketing and less
price fiuctuation. The following com
mittee was appointed to work to this
end with representatives of the United
States Department of Agriculture:
H. K. Nickel, United Dressed Beef
company, New York; L. S. Joseph.
vice president New York Butchers
DieSseu n1ent Ne" Ao-h
George Kramer, United Master Butch
ers of America, New York; II. D. WI
mer, Pennsylvania Railroad company,
Philadelphia George A. Shannon, vice
president New York and New Jersey
Live Stock association, Jersey City
j. H. Meek. chief. bureau of markets,
Richmond, Va, and r. G. Bonham,
president and general manager Jersey
City stock yards, Jersey City.
, 1922-10-11
MISTAKES TO AVOID
WITH POTATO SALAD
Overlooking or Too Much Stirring
Is Harmful.
Evenly Cut smaIr Dice Are More AZ.
tractlve Than Large chunks-
INTRODUCES Onion Flavor by
squeezing Juice Out.

prepared by tho United State, Departures,
OF Agriculturo)
IN making potato salad IL Is vel TO
avoi overlooking the potatoes, also to
avoid too much stirring, or the salad
Will be mushy and unappetizIng. Small,
evenly cut dice are more attractive
than large chunks of potato, advises
the United States Department of Agri-
culture. Cold boiled potatoes can be
used when on hand, or the potatoes
may be cut up raw and freshly cooked
until just done. Onion flavor may be
introduced by squeezing the juice over
the cooked hot potatoes. This is more
acceptable to many persons than bits
OF chopped onions occurring in the
salad. The potato may be mixed with
French mayonnaise, or boiled dressing.
while still hot. Care should be taken
to avoid using too much vinegar In the
salad. A tablespoonful of chopped
parsley or diced cucumber Is a pleas
Ing addition, while chopped celery or
radish, diced hard-bolled egg, canned
sardines, capers, sour pickles may all
be used with good resusis.
A w~ell-fiayored potato salad may be
made by cooking q tablespoonful of
9nely chopped onion In bacon fat until
tender, then adding a tablespoonful If
chopped celery and two culfuls of
sliced raw potatoes. All should be
covered with water In a skillet and
cooked down till the potatoes are done.
Use French salad dressing and mix In
about two chopped hard-bolled eggs.
Sardines may be added If liked. Serve
hot or cold
, 1922-10-11
FORECASTS INCREASE
PROFITS ON ALFALFA
Growers in West Receive Predic-
tons Through Agents.
Seed 10 Largely Grown From Second
Crop and II Season 10 Late Frost
and Harvest Periods Como
Close Together.

Prepared by the United States Department
of Agricultural
Forecasts OF weather conditions for
alfalfa harvest are widely distributed
In the Vest, particularly In Oklahoma,
where 1000 or more growers receive
the forecasts through the local agents
Of the extension service of the United
States Department of Agriculture. In
Utah a rather limited but important
frost-warning service for alfalfa-seed
growers is In operation.
Seed is largely grown from the Sec
ond crop, and If the season is late
the harvest and fall frost per- is
come close together AS the seed crop
Increases in value a the rate of about
So a day for. each acre Of seed when
nearing maturity, the growers let the
seed stand as long as possible. When
temperatures low enough to cause
damage r predicted by the weather
bureau II is not unusual for the seed
growers to run their cutting machines
most of the night.
In one section of Utah during a re-
cent harvest season fully 500 acres of
seed we're cut after receipt of the
warnings. at an average saving OF $50
to $50 an acre. Two of these grow
ers reported that they saved at least
5000 as a result OF the weather In
formation furnished by Uncle snE
concerning frost conditions.
, 1922-10-11
Roast PORK With PuddInn.

A dish corresponding to the York
shire pudding, which is frequently
served with roast beef, can be made
out Of corn meal to serve with roast
pork. n y the United States Depart
ment of Agriculture.
| cup milk. eggs.
Place the milk, corr meal and sult
in the top of a double boiler and cook
them about ten minutes. or until the
meal has expanded TO form a thorough
mixture. After the mixture has cooled,
add the eggs well beaten. Grease gem
tins thoroughly, allowing TO each about
one teaspoonfui of fat from the roast
pork. Bake in a moderate oven. bast-
ing occasionally with the drippings of
the pork.
, 1922-10-11
MWnhUN @
@ Question:

Start the hot-weather season with q
good garbage can.
The ends OF worn t%ablecloths make
very nice tray cloths.
Dull files are sharpened when laid
In dilute sulphuric acid.
Use a small painters brush to re
move dust from rattan chairs.
A merlngue baked slowly in a warm
oven with the door open will not fall.
Beat cocoa with an egg beater just
before serving and cur will not form
on the cups.
Just before serving an omelet pour
over 1t pimentos or canned peas in a
cream sauce.
Arrange sausage around mound OF
mashed potatoes and garnish with
brussels sprouts.
Persons who have difficulty in get
ting to sleep say that a glass OF but
termllk at night helps.
Instead Of frying salmon croquettesl
bake In custard cups. turn out and
servo with spiced tomato sauce.
In sewing lace to the top of n corset
cover do lot allow any fullness, but
rather hold the lace a little snug.
Ribbon flowers are quite the rage OF
the hour. They appear on hats. as q
bodice ornament and on lingerie.
When making apple and you
find that the apples are tasteless ndd
a small amount of chopped mint.
, 1922-10-11
Cane for

The smart little cape for autumn
viii be 81 separate garment, OF velours
or some serviceable fabric; 1t will be
much in evidence with the one-piece
street -frock. But instead of fasten-
ing in front, as the earlier capes In
variably fastened, the new hiplength
model will fasten on one shoulder.
There will be an armhole and a long
slit and II n arm is slightly chilly
It will be necessary only to reflect
that the style at any rate is a jnunty
one.
, 1922-10-11

waistline. These and waistcoats will
be features of the coming styles. so II
you have any spare minutes, 1t be-
hooves you to gather your needles and
threads together and to spend your
time embroldering sheer white stulfs
so that you shall be ready to supple.
ment your fall clothes with the sort
of accessories that are being done
Any real lace that can be added is q
touch that will have much in Its
favor, and If 1t is only a little rounded
collar with a pair of cuffs to match,
you will not be sorry. wren the cooler
days arrive, to be able to draw them
forth to deck some new fall frock.
, 1922-10-11
Wooden Pau Good for FIreIess Cooker.

enough for II to be sufficiently cooked.
This Is accomplished by first heating
the food thoroughly over the stove In
the cooking utensil and then placing
the latter in a freless cooker which is
so insulated that the heat will be re-
tanned for sufficient time to complete
the cooking. The cooking is material
ly aided by the use Of a hot stone
placed under, and sometimes also an
other n on top of the cooking utensil.
A homemade fireless cooker may be
made out Of a wooden box or pail of
sufficient size. A wooden candy pail
10 inches In diameter. standing 10
inches high, has been made into a
hreless cooker by the United States
Department OF Agriculture. The ac-
~companying diagram shows the out
side appearance of the wooden pail,
and also n cross section.
The outside Of the pail Is enameled
white. as this gives 1t a finished APP
pearance, makes It smooth to handle.
and easy to clean. The inside Of the
pail is lined with six t~hicknesses OF
heavy brown paper and then with sew
eral inches of excelsior. A tin can.
with a wcn-ntting lid, such ms can be
purchased to keep sugar or -four in,
forms the center well. This must be
large enough to hold = cooking utensil
Of practical size.
Asbestos 10 Essential.
Directly around and under the cen
ter well. and between 1t and the excel
sior is placed asbestos sheeting at
least " inch thick. This Is the most
essential because 1t not only aids ma
terially In retaining the heat within
the well but also 1t is n means of pro-
lection from fire. Without the ashes
tos there is great danger Of the excel
sior taking fire from the hot soap
stone. The excelsior and asbestos ex-
tend nearly up to the lid of he well
and are her covered with a layer Of
cement which holds the material and
.he well In place.
A round cushion filled with excelsior
Is stuffed between the cover Of the
well and tia wooden cover Of the
, 1922-10-11
straioht Hem Line.

Many of the skirts show a return To
the straight hemline. One Poirei
gown, however, makes a neat compro-
mise between the even and uneven
hem. A dress, of citron crepe marc
cain, has a round, gathered skirt
which ends in ten sharply pointed
scallops. Since each of these seal
lops is the same length as the rest, a
delightful is attained.
, 1922-10-11

the shining touch which they are cap
able of adding. But the bead bag that
was SO prominent has faded away al
together, leaving in it's place only the
silken ones by which it Is possible ia
add color to q gown.
, 1922-10-11
Pretty Red Flock.

A picturesque little frock for a
small girl seen recently was of red
cashmere, cross-stitched In black to
form a yoke design that extended
slightly down the front In panel effect
, 1922-10-11
COOK Good MEAL
WITH SLOW FIRE
FlreIess Cooker Eliminates Ne
cessity of Hot Stove.
ADAPTABLE TO TOUGH MEATS
Principle of Device 10 Retention of
Heat Long Enough to Complete
Cooking Of Food-PIan Of
Construction Outlined.

prepared by the United States Department
of AEriculturs-)
Now that SUMMER Is at hand the
housewife turns her thought to meals
which require as little heat as possible
to prepare, or to those devices by
which a good meal can be cooked with
out staying constantly In a hot kitchen
while doing 1t. A freless cooker is
one Of the means by which this latter
may be accomplished. Meats and fowl
may be prepared in It. and particularly
1t is adaptable to the tougher cuts of
meat and to beams and cereals, be-
cause OF the long, slow cooking which
II affords.
Principle Of Device.
The principle Of homemade and
commercial freiess cookers is the re-
tention OF the heat in the food long
, 1922-10-11

Lace mitts are seen everywhere.
They have a quaint charm and a GER
tain early-day air that is quite IRE
sIstible. Likewise they come in the
most fascinating lace patterns.
, 1922-10-11
InexpensIve varlety Of Foods.

"uNPHHuIVo Variety OF FouuH.
IL is worth remembering, the United
states Department of Agriculture re-
minds the housekeeper. that bread and
mix, rusks and milk, and crackers
ana milk all have much the same food
yaiue as breakfast foods and milk,
tnd often furnish q convenient and
~@expensIye variety.
, 1922-10-11
WHITE COLLARS TO THE FORE
Neck Decorations Have Width to
Spread over Frock Almost to
the WalstlIne.

Picturesque white collars are more
and more to the fore. They roll
around rather low necklines and have
a great deal of width left to spread
neatly over the frock almost to the
, 1922-10-11

Six or seven inches from the floor
is the correct skirt length in Paris
and American buyers predict that by
fall that viii be the star dard here.
, 1922-10-11

This two-piece costume is Of dark
blue slik-surfaced trelaine, using the
wool surface outside and outlining
the collar, cuffs M pocket details In
a cherry red. The wide sleeves may
be snugly buttoned around the wrist.
The wrap-around skirt has a bIoused
waist of a brilliantly printed silk.
, 1922-10-11

cross Section Of Homemade Flreless
Cocker.
cooker. and then 1t is ready for use.
soapstones Of various sizes may be
purchased at hardware stores. Flat
stones, such as are picked up in some
sections Of the country. may be used.
Farmers Bulletin TIL. Homemade
f1reless Cookers and Their USE" may
De had without cos upon application
TO the Department Of Agriculture,
Washington. d. @.
The New York herald., 1922-06-25

THE HERETO. BY ]. Mills whitam
The Macmillan Company.
.NHIs is peculiar book; a book
with purpose, an avowed
moral to be evolved from the
fable. That. at the outset, is no
small handicap to any but the great
est masters OF fiction. The author
does not altogether overcome 1t,
either as to success in driving home
his moral or in attaining full artistic
success merely as a novelist. Yet it
is an impressive story; careful, con-
scientious in its workmanship, well
put together and evincing no small
dramatic skill at times and much
clear insight into the makeup of
humanity. 1t Is excellent in the tex
ture of its style. The author also
has humor and can be grimly satir-
ical upon occasion. But the final
impression left upon the reader is
rather dreary, even depressing. And
many readers will also remain un-
convinced as to the entire correct
ness of the moral which he is invited
to draw.
The subtitle calls the book a
study of temperament" The un-
happy hero. who fills the title role as
the hereto is overburdened with
temperament" in the currently ac-
cepted slangy connotation of the
word. One feels that this is. at
least in part. the trouble with him;
that his failure is due as much to
himself as to any obstinacy or stupid
adherence to precedent on the part
of his opponents. He does not quite
make out his case against the
Faculty" as a whole. But that
very fact no doubt makes him more
interestingly human than IL he were
less of an eccentric. Therein II is
an acute study. 1t should, perhaps.
be noted that while this is fiction Il
is not withoutaa recent parallel in
real life In England.
This hereto is a wonderfully adept
"manipulative surgeon" or "osteol-
ogist." and the adversary he is
Obliged to tilt against is the vener-
able medical profession. which re-
fuses to recognize his methods or
legalize his practice. He stands for
the innoyator. the discoverer. pro-
The New York herald., 1922-06-25

PETER BY E. F. Benson. George II.
Doran Company.
T viii be remembered that the
irrepressible ''Dodo" finally
grew up. preserving her essen
tial Dodo-ness. but emerging into a
ealmer. larger maturity. Here Mr..
Benson states the case OF an equally
peculiar young man. Peter, and ap-
parenty wishes Us to understand
that Peter has setunlly grown up at
the end OF the book. But one is net
quite convinced OF his final maturity
or that he has actually found him
self" With that qualification the
rest OF the story Is convincing
enough and immensely interesting
to lovers OF acute psycho-analysis-
not in the current, almost sIangy
meaning of that word, but in a more
primary sense.
1t is unnecessary to say that the
thing is admirably done, so far as
technic goes. 1t is also genuinely
subtle. penetrant and. one feels.
based upon accurate vfvisection of
the human model. 1t is also very I'D
10 date. Peter is emphatically OF the
postwar London, and of his gener-
alton. Possibly, too, Mr.. Benson ac-
eomplishes something in explaining
that very new generation to older =
often puzzled-observers. 1t has
often been noted that one generation
is always more or less Incompetent
sible TO another but It Is peculiarly
true to-day IL We are TO accept the
actions and the expressed opinions
of youth at their face value.
Peter is of his time in being in
tensely interpretive. So. too, is
Nellie. the secondary young woman
OF the book. with whom the tale
opens. Each" We are told, had
developed to an almost alarming de-
gree that modern passion for intro
spection. which Is an end in itself.
and like a barren tree yields no
fruit in the ways OF action or re-
nunciation."
There speaks the mature Mr.. Ben
son himself for his generation 1t IS
in part the essence OF the book as a
criticism Of current Life. Peter Is
The New York herald., 1922-06-25

not so much self centered in a selfish
way as isolated; voluntarily isloated
and critical. His generation likes to
takes itself apart, to see just how
the wheels go round, to admit the
mechanism of their action calmly,
dispassionately, with a pretense of
critical indifference. 1t is not a pose
in Peters case. Nellie is a feminine
counterpart. Peter is, however,
something of poseur outwardly.
He is poor. but placed safely enough.
He aims at certain distinction py
being different" and succeeds. 1t
is a cold blooded process, but never
quite cynical at bottom, in spits of
his apparent belief in his own cyni-
cism.
He meets and finally marries Sill
via, who is a different modern type.
She is rich; he does not exactly
marry her because of her money.
but it is no impediment and he could
not conceive himself as marrying
without the concomitant of money
enough. Silvia is in love with bin.
She. too, is up to date. quite OF her
generation. but also with a differ
ence. The story follows their life.
intricately, through a series of con-
fiicts and crises, each accompanied
by a careful analysis of the emotions
on either side. 1t is too complex for
any adequate summary. but very
well worth following. In fact, it
goes rather more deeply into essen
tial human emotions than most of
Mr.. Benson's earlier studies. The
climax. in which Peter finds himself
impelled to go to his wife in a barn
ing building with the probability
that he cannot get out again. is eff
fectiye, but somehow it leaves one
just bit uncertain as to it's accu-
racy.
The story has all Mr.. Benson's finc
incidental qualities: his frequent
wit. a deft lightness of touch, a
sometimes sardonic, even malevoIent
jab at the minor shams of society
and the carefulness in presentation
of even the least important mino.
characters.
These subsidiary people are highly
interesting: Peters father, an artis>-
button; a painter who cannot paint
but is deeply absorbed in his own
Importance; Peters silent. self-re-
pressed mother. whom he Goes not
at all understand, and Nellie. who is
a subtly conceived feminine equiva-
lent OF Peters own introspective
honesty with himself" 1t is well
rounded novel excellent not only in
its general composition and con-
struction but also in the high finish
of its detail.