The New York herald., 1922-03-05

of curled fringe across the forehead
The hair at the temples was drawn
straight back without forward flicker.
The group behind her back said
Her place is with the Eminent Vic
torians."
The friendly group said. Really, tell
us where you find such hats?"
II make them at home and l like
them," was the answer. I'm an indi-
vidualist. It's the age for Individual
ISM
Well, that's tho only way you can
manage to wear the tiny toque these
days. Any lingering hope of its rein
statement this spring has been killed by
the frosty manner of milliners. If a
hat is small, 1t is large; If 1t is large. II
is out of all proportion to trolley car
seats. 1t is more than ever reason to
have your own car.
Straw Is Not Taboo.
Whether or no it was the plea from
Italy that the product of their mills
should receive enthusiastic support, the
fact that the new hats do not scorn
straw is important.
Sober, negative straw, undyed and
dull, is rarely used as foundation for
brilliant ornamentation. Instead the
straw shines in glory. Green. vivid,
Amazonian, is used. Red of flame and
flag is there. Copper, shining first yell
low then brown, is in keeping with a
Chinese yellow and French blue are
chosen, and black is, of course, plentiful.
The delight in green shown by dress
makers and milliners is reflected by the
public Ii Is interesting that II comes
at a time when English scientists are
saying that an instructive predilection
for the color in its light vivid shade indi-
Gates a love of wide flung spaces. pc
cuiar distaste for small limitations and
close vision. 1t is the color OF the ANA
IONS, say those who study races. which
accounts for the name given the start
ling, stimulating shade of green found in
new fabrics for summer offered as an
offset to the monotonous crepe weaves.
Chine frocks as embroidery. Other
French frocks. the straight line ones,
carry the color In a taffeta sash that
hangs in loops to the floor on one side.
Again there are new silver tissue gowns
with Vionnet fan pleatings of green
tulle acting as exaggerated godets on an
Egyptian slip.
Many Strnws of Fancy Weave.
All straws are not plain and demure
of surface. Some are so fanciful they
are fantastic. The more curious they
arc of weave, the less admirable are they
and the more difficult TO wear.
Whatever trimming Is put on such
straws appears unnecessary. They arc
better when left to themselves. 1t seems
odd to talk so gibly Of ornamentation
when awhile back the trade was deplor-
ing the universal and long established
custom of wearing merely q shape, not
overly expensive, not hard to find.
Shredded feathers appeared as the first
break i'm the plainness. Slowly simplicity
gave way to desire for adornment. The
revolution crept quietly upon the public
until one morning Il awoke to find that
its dearly beloved plain shape had gone
into the shadows A part of this public
went merrily into the shops and gorged
itself with all the nigh forgotten orna-
ments in which mllliners delight
Ornaments That MiIIiners Permit.
The shops are more lenlent than ex-
pcnsivc hat builders i'm the variety and
quantity OF trimming. The French mill
liners are not racking their imaginations
to and new things. Still, they use the
cockade Of ribbon, the artichokcs, fat
tened out, or irregular ends OF grosgrain
and taffeta ribbon with the ends dipped
in sealing wax.
There are more leaves than flowers
on tho new hats, which is more sug-
gestive of autumn than spring. They are
shaded and take on the deep reds and
blues that go with the end Of summer
rather than it's beginning. Some OF
them are lusterless black.
verlalne OF Paris creates a new model
with a broad brim of old rose taffeta
edged with straw in the same color as
with n thick bed or shaded oak leaves.
such things, however. are commonplace
in contrast with the fantastic orna-
ments that this same milliner makes to
grow in her workshop. Think Of al
rrettes wildly growing from the ends OF
braids as they do I'm a curious hat, one
whose shape shows Imagination as well
as its trimming. The fabrics that 20 10
mako II are black satin and straw and
the burst OF feathers AZ the side looks
like nothing so much as the ancient par
Ior duster Of the French maid Of tho
stage.
Lewis OF Paris. whose hats mo worr
by numbers OF Americans. paints wings
with silver 10 make them starting. lie
does this amazing trick On a black
straw hat immense IN It's pr)portlons
with brim that takes an airriane MS
its model. II Is mounted OF 4 thick
roll of silver cloth which flaes widely
ont beyond the face. Ngalnst l'.c high
round crown oddly shaped wiqrs are
placed of various height 1nd width
thcso are spotlad and dottnd %ith si'.
tcr paint ard tined WITH si'@r cloih
Curious idea. tnia combination d. straw
silver tissue and paint