The New York herald., 1922-08-20
(ow Phot0pldys and Notes Of the Stage"
Winter Styles lii Paris
Like Those of Last Year
Lack of Variety Causes Buyers to Complain, but Sat
isfy Women Wearers, Who See Chance to
Economic Gowns Of Former Season.

wearing collar or the same iur as Ms
mistress.
Paul Caret Is another new house
which had its opening and further
proved that there are no changes in the
general styles, though many novelties
appear In the trimmings. The circular
movement. either in full skirts or in in
serts, is evident throughout the collec-
tion, Many of his skirts. which are OF
medium length. have full sides gath
cred at the waist line and are fiat In
back and front.
Graceful drapery In metal brocades
combined with the most gorgeous colors
are featured in the evening dresses. One
of red and gold brocade Is draped with
a long train at the side and a curious
effect In a cape composed OF strings OF
gold beads, which hangs from the
shoulders TO the hips. Many OF the eve-
ming dresses are made of handsome vel
vets, and metal laces often figure In such
models. Oriental influences are to be
noted both in fabrics and designs of
embroidery A very handsome gown OF
old gold velvet named "Scheherazade.
reminiscent OF the tone poem by Rim
sky -Korsakoff is worn with corsets on.
Cire mousseline brocaded In silver IS
novelty fabric which Is effectively en-
ployed, and watered velvet is still another
line and the long waist around the hips.
Crepe dresses on simple lines In beauu-
full new shades OF brown and beige are
strong features OF the collection.
Jean Fatou has made famous his
fashion shows by night. Last night he
had the repetition generate OF his col
lection Of winter models, In the presence
OF members OF the American. British
and French press and few Intimate
friends. His big opening will be held on
Monday for the foreign buyers. The
show last night was as interesting, II
not more so, than the performances az
any OF the Paris theaters. despite the
fact that there are few changes in the
Patou styles.
The guests sat at tables. and supper
wns eerved while the mannequins
pranced. The evening was success
both socially and as a fashion display.
The collection on the whole Is comprised
OF real clothes, with no attempt TO dis
guise the fact that the styles are not
revolutionary. There are few details,
such as the shape of the neck and
sleeves, which are not as they were last
season, but the silhouette Is much the
same.
The Patou collection, however, is one
of the few Which will not draw further
no marked changes. The models above
all else are smart, and nothing else
seems to matter There Is less OF the
robe chemse. the tendency running
more TO draped effect for evening wear
and perfectly straight dresses, with
marked line between the skirt and the
bodice
There are no separate skirts and
blouses shown. but this line is usually
marked by the fact that the attached
| bodice Is made of a different fabric ant
contrasting color TO the skirt. And witt
these one piece dresses are worn shor'
Jackets. There Is much less Of the big
flowing sleeves and more Of those htted
to the wrist. Veivets and crepes are
the favored fabrics and the quilted tis-
sues are extensively used IN coats. Vel
vets are favored In both tailleurs and
afternoon dresses. There are quauti-
ties Of black velvet costumes. with
bright red bodces or trimmed In red
leather. and various shades OF brown
are second IN favor in such models.
feature is made OF leather Jackets q
bright colors. worn with duvetyn dc
laine skirts.
The colors are most striking through
out the collection, bright reds am
green being most pronounced. Tnc
Tndo- Chine influence Is 70 be noted n
the embroiderles and other trimmings
and there Is much Of the Persian de-
signs In handsome brocades for evening
wraps A deep shade Of orchid IS IA
vored in the evening dresses.
No Fixed skirt Length.
AS 70 the length OF the skirts. which
seems 20 be most important question
To the Americans, one Is not impressed
that they have any set length. They are
not too long or too short The majority
OF the evening dresses are Of good ankle
length, while the day dresses are con-
siderably shorter. Patou seems 70 never
have lost sight OF the fact that the world
IA stfll mad on the subject OF daicinE
both day and night, so all Of his evening
dresses could be called dancing frocks
The Maison Yteb. which Is one OF the
younger houses. had its big opening Or
August Z. but Nine. Yteb were showing
to the American buyers for the THREE
davs before that According TO till
collection drapcd lines VIII be more OF
less featured in all models, with the ex-
ception sports costumes and the very
simple day dresses. Two types OF evening
dresses arc shown, the picturesque
eighteenth century gowns. with lonc
dtted bodIces and long full skirts. and
the very slender draped sldrts. the latter
being really the key to the collection n
FAR as lines are concerned. Meta bro
cades are extensively employed in these
models and they are most brilliant IN
coloring.
One OF tho new models OF the week,
showing drnpcd lines and what Will
probably prove to be the accepted length
FOR tho skirts for evening wear, Is made
of mauve and red brocade, shot with
gold. 1t has diamond shoulder straps
and ornaments and II drapcd with q
puff over each hip. Another model
much on tho same lines IL draped up on
one side and has Spanish lace falling
from the shoulders IN a circular cape
effect.