The New York herald., 1922-03-05

embroidered jackets. sometimes leaving
the sleeves plain. For afternoons there
is nothing better than lace. Molyneaux
specializes in heavy Venetian, but others
prefer light laces of the Chantisiy type.
Often one sees different laces combined
III the same model, or again lace is used
with crepe. Georgette crepe is inn
mensely popular both for afternoon and
evening. and for the latter 1t is very
often beaded. usually with crystal
SILK Crepe in Evidence.
Silk crepes are much in evidence. anh
sorne houses fancy satin. Little taffeta
is seen except for young girls modes.
Taile appears for the occasional model
which has wide skirt. Bianchini's new
"satin gauffe," which is cire satin with
an embossed appearance, is used by sew
cral houses. and Is magnificent in flame
for evening wraps. The Rodier materials
are general favorites, especially their
wool crepe. which Is called "crepella."
Madeleine of Madeleine have a whole
series Of startling sports models In
their embroidered serges. The jersey
materials. particularly in silk. are also
much in evidence for sport costumes.
AS TO line. which is so important, IL is
here we find less change than in any
other particular. The silhouette remains
straight For morning, models are
really straight from shoulder to hem.
though a slight blouse at the waistlne
with tight band at the hips Is a type
or tailleur which finds much favor. Flat
plaits at the sides. bow plaits, panels.
a skirt open in front over an under
skirt, draped line which gives sud
den flare at one side--all these expedi-
cnts arc adopted to preserve us from
the discomfort OF tho tubelike narrow
skirt. A tendency to double or tunic
skirts Is also noted. Panels of fine
plating at the sides are used almost
universally.
Dresses have considerably more
width though their silhouette remains
slender. They indulge heavily In float
Ing panels, plated panels, tags and
ends which need quantity of material
Tho draped line for daytime dresses has
the popularity predicted for II. Num-
erous are the means OF managing the
fullnesg at tho waist which comes from
using one length of material from neck
~ hem. II is wrinkled across the body
In folds which fall as they please, or IL
is set into fiat tucks, or held In tight
groups Of gathers. Moiyneux has a
fashion OF plating II up on one hip and
letting the other side fall as II will.
Tho circular cut seems 10 be used less
frequently except for models draped
tightly about the hips and in which all
fhc fulness Is gathered into circular
fare at one side
Gowns Like Long Tunics.
A few gowns are like long tunics. per-
fectly straight back and front and open
on one side. showing an underdress OF
another material. Worth created a
charming model Of this type and Lelong
has novel foulard dress opening over
"A plated underFown OF navy twill One
firm, many Of whose models are Of Chi
ncse inspiration. show a series Of after
neon and dinner gowns, the skirts Of
which are i'm panels open all the way
up, but caught together at the hips with
straps OF the materials, or with beaded
ornaments Their hodices are square In
effect entirely embroidered. fastened 70
one side and have immense softly
puffed sleeves. "A few gowns have long.
straight waists and fun skirts. but this
limo Is generally reserved for summer
frocks of thin materials. As we have
said before, the draped gown for eve
ming Is completely triumphant Molly
ncux created sensation at his opening
hy showing a pink faille frock with an
immensely wide skirt. and tight little
bodice with a fichu Of silver lace draped
over one shoulder while tho pretty man-
neduin wore q light blonde WIZ, with Z
cur over her shoulder.
skirts are of variad icna hs. Most
houses show them wen above tdt ankle
for morning, ankle length for afternoon
and rIally very long for evening. Waist