The Bottineau courant. (Bottineau, Bottineau County, N.D.) 1895-1929, 1922-03-16
Garden Bureau.

Ii the soil is a light sandy loan and
inclined to dry out quickly, the peas
should be covered 8 to 4 inches. But
If the soil is rather heavy and inclined
to pack closely, they should not be
covered nore than l to 2 inches. The
varieties of peas having wrinkled seed
coats should not be planted until about
two weeks after the smooth varieties.
They are just a little more susceptible
to injury from frost and will mature
about as early if planted when the
ground has slightly warmed.
When to Take Chances.
In the case of certain garden crops.
h investment in seed is too great for
taking a chance with the weather, but
with beets, lettuce, and radishes a very
small quantity Of ICED is required, and
If they come through in good shape,
the product will be ready for use much
earlier than If the planting were de-
layed. About Is or 80 feet of row
will give all the early beets required
by an ordinary family. Radishes may
be planted>in the rows with early peas.
However, it will be necessary to re-
move the radishes before they begin
to crowd the peas. AS a rule, radishes
will be ready for use in three or four
weeks after planting, or just about the
time that the peas have begun to make
a vigorous growth. Most gardeners
make the mistake of planting too many
radishes, or at least of planting too
many at n time and not being able
to use the product.
The old-fashioned method of growing
lettuce was to plant a bed along one
side or In one corfer of the garden,
and when the plants were large
enough, to thin them, using the prod
uct as needed and leaving the re-
mainder to grow larger. This method
of growing lettuce is not SO desirable
as the plan Of planting it In rows,
where it can be more easily cultivat-
ed. Lettuce is very susceptible to heat,
and it Is difficult to grow it after the
weather has become hot. For this rea-
son 1t is best grown as q spring and
a fall crop. Two or three paintings
at intervals of 10 days or 2 weeks
in spring and a planting or two in
autumn should be sufficient for the
needs of the ordinary family.
Planting Second Group.
The second group. including carrots,
beets. parsnips, radishes, satisfy,
wrinkled peas, spinach, swiss chard
and early sweet corn, may be planted
shortly before the probable time for
the last spring frost The planting Of
these crops should be so timed that
they will escape frost. and yet be
started just as early as possible.
The third group Of garden crops,
or those that should not be planted
until after danger of frost is past,
includes cucumbers. muskmelons, okra,
snap beans, cauliflower, and we'll har-
dened tomato plants. The time of
tomato plants, however, will de-
pend On local conditions. If they art
not crowding each other too much In
the plant bed, it may pay to delay set
ting them in the open ground until |
the air Is thoroughly warmed. Little
Is gained by planting tender plants
In the open ground too early.
The fourth group Of plants, COM
monty known as the heat-loying plants,
includes peppers. eggplant, Lima
beans, sweet potatoes, and summer
These crops are easily In
jnred by cold nights and periods OF
rainy weather, and It is always best
70 delay planting them until a safe
period has been reached. It should
borne in mind that certain soils
warm up slowly In spring. and that
such plants as eggplant and peppers
ire susceptible to injury from cold