Evening star., 1922-09-24
Smaller Hats of Felt and Suede Materials Begin tn
BY ANNE RIrrENHoUsE.

' By ANNE A1TTENHOUSEs
r T Is to be hoped that small hats
are what the American women
like. They viii be asked to wear
i them through the winter.
The sunshade hat was at the top
of its glory last spring. Down
through the months until the fash
ionable week At Deauville women
wore hats with immense brims, imita-
tive Of parasols. with crown bands OF
gold and silver tissue. We had that
fashion q year ago in America, but II
was SO exclusive that 1t never got
beyond the outer portals. 1t was
quite conspicuous in Deauville. An
other feature that was conspicuous
was the absence Of flowers.
When the end of the Deauville sea-
son arrived small hats dotted the
landscape. They were at the races
in the Normandy Hotel, at the
luncheon hour. at the tea dances IN
the Casino, at the Potiniere at the
hour of aperitif. The change from
what was large to what was little was
important and conspicuous. Paris
watches Deauville with shrewd eyes
and Americans watch both Paris ana
Deauville. However. there are women
who VIII insist upon the big hat.
Their faces need 1t. The crown will
not be large or draped. which Is q
difiicuTt fact for women with large
faces to overcome. but they must sac
riffee fashion for beauty.
A moderately high crown, not ex-
aggerated in size. is the type the mil
liners offer to Americans, and what
milliners offer Americans buy. The
Frenchwoman rarely goes into shop
and buys hat. She goes to the milli-
ner, talks for an hour about materials
and formation, has a preliminary hat
built on her head. then goes back for
fittings, in the manner of buying
gowns.
This is not a widespread American
fashion. 1t is done In a few OF the
great centers by the fastidious MI
nority. II it were more often done
women would be better hated.
r. X Y +
THE crowns on the large hats are
i draped. So far there are few
feathers. When there are feathers,
they belong to the barnyard rooster
and not to the African bird. The
Italian sharpshooters started this
fashion in the victory march. 1t has
continued ever since. There is to be
no diminution of it this season. The
conventional dark green used by the
bersaglieri also continues. 1t Is used
on hats Of beige, tobacco and green
felt, also on velvet.
There are wreaths of roses on some
of the new crowns. They usually
match the color Of the hat, but they
are shaded in several tones of the one
color. This is especially we'll done in
pale, brown.
These large hats are Of velvet as
often as felt. but they are not of
moire, satin or taffeta. Satin has been
retired by the milliners, except In the
ribbon hats. which are swirling along
at a great pace, as though they had
gained momentum since Caroline Re-
boux invented the first one over q
year ago. London has adopted them
with enthusiasm. They fold up to so
in a travelling bag without even the
aid Of tissue paper to keep them in
good condition. Many American
women have bought them here for the
midseason. They suit our practical
life and necessity.
There are still black velvet hats
sweeping out as widely as sunshade;
with the heavy silver lace Of the
Italian renaissance for Ornamental
ton. This lace is wrapped about the
crown and tied in q loose bow, with
long loops and ends that fall over one
side.
The interesting feature to Amer
leans in these large hats. no matter
what their fabric. is the fact that
they scoop up in front. They do not
show the hair in front, but they show
about an inch of bare forehead above
the eyebrows. then slope downward
across the temples, covering the head
to the nape of the neck. The Amer
ican still wears her large hat tilted
over the eyes and curled up at the
back. It's q better limo for her head,
unless she is slim and young. q.
The new brims are not lined with
q contrasting color. The whole hat
keeps to one color. Sometimes the
ornamentation is a contrast, but fash
ion permits the one tone throughout
If women prefer monotony.
Felt has leaped into new impor-
tance 1t rivals velvet. 1t has taken
the place Of satin. The French milli-
hers say 1t is hard to get. therefore
the price is high. Fine felt shapes
ready for decoration are difficult to
find, but it is probable they will be
plentiful in America.
+ + 4 +
THE sensational hat Of the season
IL was launched by Lanvin, who.
though a dressmaker. creates mil1i-
merry for her mannequins which often
dominates the American fashion.