The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-09-10
Some Paris Skirts Still Above the Ankle
for Daylight Wear; Longer for Evening
Along End at One Side or a
Marrow Train Behind
In Vogue.

OUpyrignt. ls]&, py vogue. New iorN'
ME first thing that one remarks
about the new collection OF
Molyneux is that his skirts
have not increased in length, but are
still well above the ankle for daytime
wear, while for evening they trail a
long end at one side or drag narrow
single or double train behind them, the
rest of the skirt well off the floor. The
silhouette in general remains straight
simple and eminently wearable, but
picturesque note, visible heretofore
only in the gorgeous tea gowns, is
sounded in some of the daytime models
now in a long, hanging. open sleeve
lined with the only touch OF brilliant
color in a somber gown, now in
vivid twisted girdle, and again in
massng of colored embroidery or
flaring tunic banded with fur. In ad-
dition to keeping his skirts unchanged
Molyneux has refused to raise the
waist line, which is consistently be-
low the natural place, exactly as he
placed 1t last year.
The daytime models are often OF
three pieces, consisting of short cape
and frock rather than jacket ana
frock. or these the ensemble OF black
suede and black crispellindi Is good
example. There are numerous models,
like this one, with straight cuirass
blouses attached to narrow short skirts
sometimes ornamented with embroidery
in silk ''ton sur ton" or in fine steel
beads, like the one sketched. Often the
short capes. or the longer ones, are
lined with fur. which appears again on
the collar and cuffs. There is great
feeling for fur Innings. using the less
precious furs. Lelong. Madeleine ct
Madeleine. Jenny and Chanel all en-
ploy this idea. All the browns. navy
blue and some gray are the colors
favored for the tailleurs, three piece
suits and little" frocks.
Afternoon gowns follow the same
range of colors. and here velvet is
sometimes introduced, together with the
silk crepes, some broadcloth and some
wool crepes. The idea of the cape and
gown which are designed to go together
Is also found here. There is a hand
some model in black broadcloth, inter-
estingly piped with white and trimmed
with flat flowers at the girdle, appiqued
in strips of seal and ermine. while the
completing cape Is long. made of black
broadcloth. and lined with ermine and
seal. the white fur used at the top
This cape Is reversible at will. Some of
the crepe afternoon frocks are trimmed
with new trimming. which consists of
massed loops. sometimes very long.
sometimes few inches in length, of
rich thick floss silk. matching the gown
and used In bands. in garlands and in
Knots at the girdle.
The evening gowns in this collection
are very lovely. nearly always keeping
the straight, slightly draped character
which Molyneux does so well. Black
velvet makes a whole range of dinner
gowns. often combined here and there
with silver. Colored velvet. silk crepe.
embroidered or plain: fine laces OF metal
or thread Cone in brown. sometimes en-
.~tirely beaded: rich lanes in silk and
metal-all appear In evening models.
There are some dance gowns with fill
skirts in ethereal tulles but the great
majority are slenderly draped Very
handsome evening modeis are entirely
beaded. the beads being sometimes COM
bined with paillettcs and sometimes with
embroidery. Some of the gowns are
cmpleted by long coats of chiffon or
georgette crepe. giving them the charac-
ter OF tea gowns when the mantle is
worn and of regular evening gowns
without it. OF this type Is lovely gown
OF white geo-gette crepe and real thread
lace, retouched with silver.
An oddly is the use Of brilliantly
dyed monkey fur, in collars and bands,
now green, now orange, yellow or
bright brown. Fox also was dyed such
inconsistent tones as blue or green. The
manikins wore with their evening
models long earrings of colored glass
In the shape of an attenuated pear.
which often matched some touch OF color
In an otherwise somber gown.
A very charming dance frock is de-
veopcd IN resed= green taffeta. the
full skirt with its simple. side drape
beiny particularly good In this crisp
fabric A long. softly fitted bodice is
voluminous DOW of taffeta faced with
citron crepe. which also lines the skirt
drapery. The Eugene neckline is made
important by its two rows OF dyed lace
inserts.
One of Jenny's newest gowns is made
OF fine. silver lace embroidered in tur-
uuoise AID rose beads. The movement
of the drapery, which is caught UP In
front and held in place by a teweled
ornament. is an important fashion note
of this season.
Shot blue and silver lame makes a
charming evening gown. with one
effect of bodice. The puffed girdle.
which is OF the silver lame itself. is
caught on the left hip by large bunch
OF flowers in shades OF blue which har-
monize with the color of the material.