Evening star., 1922-03-12


acceptance of 1t by the public. This
encourages the designers, and there
has como about an extraordinary de-
mand for assorted garments that
maze the patchwork quilt Of our grand
mothers a demure affair.
But back to the bolero. It Is in:
tended to reveal the blouse. and If
1t does not fulfill this mission 1t is
useless. which means that 1t should
not be worn over common garden
shfrtwaist, If any such exists among
fashionable folk.
As rival to the bolero there Is
the Russian tunic which achieved
success on the Riviera last January.
1t is wide at the hem. rather loose
below the shoulders, and held in by
tight girdle at the edge Of the
hips. 1t is often made of white
kasha embroidered with brown or
rcd or bright blue. The jacket with
the slightly defined waistline. hip
length and slightly fiaring at the
hem is left over from last summer
in Paris, but it has every chance of
being worn again this spring.
Americans had little to do with it
last year. They were enamored OF
their straight box coats with the
big pockets below the waist. Prob
ably they will take up this shorter.
neater jacket this season.
Whatever the cut of the coat,
Joseph himself would like the colors.
True, the new ones are not of
many colors. incorporated in one
garment. like Joseph's coat. but
there is a long string of them in REQ,
yellow, green. mauve, Chinese bro
cade. metal cloth and whatnot
The new hammered metallic tis-
sue looks like Damascus trays
that artistic hostesses serve coffee on
and men use for their smoking things.
1t is the new fabric of the hour,
therefore the tailors do not wish to
leave it entirely in the hands of the
tunic coats out of 1t, with skirts of
kasha, or crepe de chine for after
noon.
CPORT suits emphasize bright red
- or bright yellow coats with black
outdoor apparel. Colored Jackets are
also worn with homespun, with the new
silvered covert cloth, and even heavy
crepe dc chine. Bright green rep is a
new fabric for sport skirts.
Mono of tho designers in Paris
exhausted their imaginations on
sleeves last autumn, although the
observer thought they would. The
new clothes show that museums are
possible to put the finger on any
one sleeve and say that 1t leads the
others. Here are some Of the i'm
portant shapes: new scarf sleeve
by Jenny which was the success of
her collection in Paris last month.
They are made of a straight band
Of thin material which goes over
ach arm at one edge, forming a
tight sleeve from shoulder to wrist.
Jenny makes these sleeves of fine
black lace on q white frock. An
other sleeve shows an immense pun
gathered in at the wrist and caught
to a tight sleeve at the elbow. 1t
is not gathered at the elbow; it is
merely caught there, in careless
manner, and drops away from it at
the back. Heavy cream lace forms
the lower part of the sleeve and
the gown fabric forms the upper
part. Embroidered lace, printed
silk and metallic cloth are used for
these lower cuffs or for deep ruffies
flaring from the elbow or as straight
streamers like sings dropping from
the elbow or the shoulder.
The tight medieval sleeve is the
one kind that does not flare away
from the arm or drip with long
streamers or pointed ends 1t is
wrinkled to fit the arm and it Is
cut so long that IL it were pulled
out it would reach several inches
below the finger tips.
+ + y X
THE sleeve which promises to be
popular is more suggestive Of the
frivolous eighteenth century than
any other era. 1t Is tight to the
elbow with fiaring fullness dropping
from the elbow over the forearm. 1t
is longer than the eighteenth CEN
tury sleeve and this fact makes the
difference between the two.
Slashed sleeves after the manner
Of the renaissance show the arm
rather than brilliant Innings. The
more ornate Of these sleeves are
embroidered with seed pearls and
twisted loops of gold or silver cord.
Some of them are larger than the
bodice to which they are attacned.
Dyed lace is the fashion OF tne
hour, but 1t is not. as OF DID, ouii
thing. It shines as If 1t had peen
dipped in varnish. Probably II mas
In mauve it is at the apex OF Drill
liancy, in flag red, in the smart
apricot shade, in plum yellow, jade
green, perlwinkle blue, 1t covers hail
Of tho society women in Paris.
These laces are dropped over metal
foundations Nothing stiff about the
metal. mind you. The weavers do
not permit that. Metal has been sub
dued until It is in the class with crepe.
Black lace, highly vanished. Is
made into a gown which has Chinese
red chiffon as the foundation. Surely
this Is suf7iciently colorful to please
the greatest extremist against all
black. Silver lace is admirable out
what IL hattsx ia = white suk net