The New York herald., 1922-08-20

Special Correspondence to THE NEW YonK
HERALD
PARIS. Aug. s.
D ARISIANS are Interested In
r. nothing but autumn fashions
for the moment. With the In
auguration of the openings at the
dressmakers the fashion cat is grad
ually to be let out OF the bag. The
maisons Lelong ana Agnes had their
openings recently In the presence of
a good number OF foreign buyers. Ac-
cording to these first Indications II
would seem that the season Is TO be an
Improvement over last spring. There
We're many new buyers noticed repre-
senting firms which heretofore have
rot sent to Paris. More are expected
during the week.
AS to the styles no great changes are
anticipated. Lelong is showing a col
lection composed of wearable models
His line in general is unchanged, the
straight silhouette predominating. any
new features being in details such as
sleeves or In some fabric or trimming.
His skirts are perhaps little longer.
his draped dresses perhaps a little moro
draped, and he shows something more
OF the circular movement which has
been predicted as the coming mode, but
no one feature is strilSingly new.
Shaved lamb, which is employed in
short Jackets and as a trimming for
tailormades. Is featured as novelty.
There is short box jacket of this skin
In pinkish beige, worn with wooden
skirt OF the same tone, and 1t often
appears in light gray and in white. One
OF the smartest wraps worn In Deauville
during the last two weeks Is of this
skin. In dark gray. 1t Is a long cir
cular cape, with a small toque of the
same skin worn by Baronne d'Erlanger.
formerly Mrs. Peter Cooper Hewitt, and
1t is exceedingly smart.
Gray monkey Is another novelty fur
used by Lelong as a trimming. 1t ap-
pears on collars and cuffs OF n tailleur,
and as a trimming In band around the
skirt or an evening gown of gold lace.
The usual number OF crepe dresses are
shown for afternoon wear. They are
more or less draped with points or ties
at ono side and their new feature Is in
the long sleeves. tightly fitted TO the
wrist. with circular flounce running
up the underseam. According to Le-
long there will be very much less of the
big flowing sleeves.
Headed Evening Gowns.
| Evening dresses are either elaborately
beaded or made of handsome metal fab.
rics or Oriental designs. The majority
ot them are shown with velvet or bro.
cSde capes, A copper dress gorgeously
embroidered In an Indo-Chine design
/ has novelty In deep padded band OF
/ the copper cloth around the hem and
the same padding. which resembles big
cable cords. appears as a collar on che
cape Of the same copper cloth. Eight
eenth century evening dresses with full
skirts and extended hips. are also shown
In taffetas and heavy silks.
| Many Of Rodier's new cloky fabrics
are used effectively. These fabrics have
\ the quilted effects that were so popula.
last season without being actually
quilted by stitching. The design is
raised IN the weaving.
4 AS each drcssmaking esta ablishment
shows its collection II becomes more evi-
4 dent that the STYLES in general win re-
main the same. much 10 the disgust OF
the foreign buyers and TO the pleasure
\ of the private client. II is good news
to women in these hard times that they
can wear their clothes OF last season
without offending any one except their
dressmakers. All OF the younger houses
have been holding their openings during
the week.
The Maison Jeanne Hallee. which IL
an old establishment I'm name, il follow
Ing the rule of change in organization
II not In the fashions, to further confuse
the buyers. Nine. Anna who has lone
been associated with the Rue de In Pain
house of Worth, and Mime. Berthe. also
former premiere from Worth. who Is
well known to the American buyers
have recently taken over the house ot
Jeanne Hallee. and according 70 the
number of orders taken at their first
opening II would seem that the house Is
bound to be a success.
In this new collection there are nc
changes whatever IN the styles. with the
exception perhaps OF longer skirts for
evening wear as shown in the most pop
ular winter models. II IA OF soft gold
cloth. carrying out the draped movement
that has been 40 extensively shown for
.he last few months. Tho drapery Is
held in place by garland OF gold and
black grapes. This type OF evening
dress is favored throughout the collcc-
tion, velvets Of the brightest colors.
either embroidered or plain. being made
on these same lines.
Embroidered. dresses with the long
waist line. fiat bodice. bateau neck,
fancy belt and the skirt draped on one
side. figure frequently in one collec-
tion. and coat dresses are extensively
featured. Crepes Of various sorts are as
popular as ever for afternoon wear.
Velvet dresses with short jackets OF n
different color are featured and en-
broidered Indian tunics are novelties.
An innovation was introduced with one
OF tho tailormades, when the name
quin entered with a dog on the leash