The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1922-02-04

comingnesS for large figure.
Beaded Net Wonderfully Becoming
Another picture shows formal aft
ernoon gown, or gown suitable for
restaurant dinners and the theater.
Here is another type of frock ideally
suited to the stout woman's needs.
Here, again the loose, straight lines.
the low belt, the descending skirt
drapery and the flowing sleeve. Black
silk net embroidered in dull blue and
gray, and weighted heavily with blue
and Steel beads has been used for
bodice and tunic, with q simple.
straight undersiip of black charmeuse.
The draped belt is OF charmeuse and
is placed very low on the one-piece
frock. Beaded nets are the most be-
coming thing the large woman can
put on. They are sumptuous in sug-
gestion yet fall in softest, limpest
lines that are full of grace. 1t is al
most impossible to use such a fabric
even handled by tyro at the art OF
dressmaking-with achieving
costume OF grace and beconingness
And beaded net robes come all ready
to be mouted on simple satin founda-
lions. Very little skill is necessary
and any good dressmaker- by-th day
can put one of these costumes to-
gether. The location of the waistline,
however, is a most important point.
II the dressmaker-by-the- day gets
the waistline an inch too high, maxi
ing the line OF bodice and skirt curve
in toward the figure too much, the
whole effect of the costume will be
ruined; and II is almost as bad to get
the waistline too low-which makes
the upper part OF the figure clumsy.
In the placing of the waistline. just
now. lies the whole secret of a frock's
grace and becomingness.
Another handsome demi-evening
gown pictured is of lace. Airy, hutter-
ing laces are not so becoming to large
figures as heavy laces. The costume
illustrated is of embroidered net,
rather than woven lace; the deep
border in solid design, with a lighter,
braided pattern above. A hounce of
this lighter lace, cut in scallops and
edged with braiding. falls below the
tunic OF heavy lace, and shows in
transparent effect below the hem OF
the satin foundation skirt. Between
the lace bodice and the satin under
bodice with its slender shoulderstraps,
is low-necked lining of chiffon. This
soft yelling of fabric with fabric Is
more becoming to the stout figure
than lace imposed directly over a
shoulder-straped lining of dark fabric
which contrasts too strongly with the
skin. Any sharply defined line of this
sort makes the expanse of flesh on a
large figure look more expansive. In
the same way the pattern softening
the net sleeve is more becoming than
a plain net sleeve would be over a
large arm.
Black And White Used Discreetly
Black and white--so dashingly be-
coming to thin women-has to be used
more carefully for an ample figure.
Black and white stripes and checker
boards are not for the stout woman,
and usually she must avoid white pip
ings. or a white bodice with a dark
skirt. And alas that dashing and dar-
ing effects are always particularly
yearned after by the big woman! She
does get so tired OF everlastingly SUBJ
DUNG herself. White has been used
in combination with black very
adroitly on one of the costumes pic
tured; the white splashes on the cos
tune taking the shape OF long, slim
panels that accentuate the long lines
OF the gown. 1t Is gown of black