davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

dor: Prince de Scalea Contessa de
Poert of Konigsvoots and Duchess Del
Monte of Paris.
Miss Ruth Sherwood. a Chicago sculp-
tor is returning to America with her
mother Mrs. William Sherwood, late
this week. Miss Sherwood. who took a
studio here for several months, Is re-
turning with two pieces which will b.
presented for the winter exhibition of
the Chicago Institute OF Art. One Is a
charming portrait relief in marble 0.
Komola Griswold, the little daughter
CT Mr.. Ralph e. Griswold, the fellow IN
landscape architecture in the American
Academy. and Mrs. Griswold. The other
is model for a small garden fountain
done In the Italian style. Miss Sher-
wood was one of the two artists invited
by the Carnegie Institute to exhibit in
the garden exhibit held last spring. am
was also invited to exhibit her stattr
OF St. Francis of Assist In the American
Artists Exhibit In Chicago this winter
Late November guests at the Excelsior
Hotel include Mr. Edwin s. George u
Detroit, Mr.. and Ms. Nat Ribback of
Chicago, Mrs. Il. II. Dewey, Idaho; Tr.
William Schoelkopf. Buffalo Mr. r
Bashford. New York; Mr.. Hima c
Nieuer. California Mr.. and Mrs. d. J
Murphy. San Francisco. and the follow
ing New Workers. Mr. Charles PollalS.
Miss Rachel Pollak DR.. e. Roffi. NJ
Louis Hillman. Miss Dorothy Keene
Taylor and Mr.. Joseph c. Boyle.
Miss Helen Shaw returned this week
from Iowa to spend the winter In Rome
as usual. She Is installed in her suite
at the Palace Hotel Prof. T. l.. Wolfe
and Miss Beatrice Ellsworth OF San
Francisco are also at the Palace.
Recent arrivals at the Qurinal Hotel
are: Mrs. Anthony O'Reilly OF New
Orleans, Mr.. M. j. Warmth, Prof. w. S.
Lands, Mr.. C K. Andrews and Mrs.
Margaret Jones Baxter of New York.
Mr. and Mrs. Leyland Lathrop OF Bel
vedere, Cal, have arrived In Rome and
are staying>at the Eden Hotel where are
also Mr.. Puttkammer and family of Chi
cego, Mr.. Robert Hempel and Mrs.
Louise Hempel OF Boston. and Mrs. Ma
belle Densmore of New York.
Prince Christopher Of Greece. arriv-
ing from Palermo is among the guests
this week at the Grand Hotel. Among
prominent American guests are: Col.
and Mrs. Boyce Thompson. Mr.. NJ.
Grant Smith, Mr.. and Mrs. William J.
Kelly and Mrs Bennett w. Ellison OF
New York: ,Ir. Robert De May arriv-
Ing from Venice. Mr.. A. ID. Grant and
Mr. f. w. X. Bradney of London. NJ.
Jacques Barendson of Paris, and others;
Count Di Sangro Of Naples. Slgnor
Dante Ferraris OF Torino. Mrs. Glare
81 reridan OF London. Mrs. Jane Wister
Paris, and Mr.. and Mrs. NJ. X. Bashford
from Venice.
New Workers. at the Flora Hotel In
clude Mr.. Edwin Crawford, MIR. Law
renee Loewell. Mr.. William Green. Mss
Elizabeth Levins Mr.. Frederick Pag-
gett and Mr.. Donald Sherwood. Mr..
Francis Snow, Boston, and Mr.. Harvey
Smith of Washington.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

keen houses at the appalling tempera-
ture' which Europeans have learned to
dread In American buildings.
We. the supposedly healthy race. are
the only civilized peoples to live In SUI
perheated atmospheres like the Rus
SLAMS. Our public buildings. shops, the
aters. moving picture houses give US a
temperature which Is flat. stale. hot.
We speak contemporary of the manner
in which Russians live. yet We do the
same with less cause
Mrs. Patrick Campbell should have
put in her memoirs the delightfully."- ex-
tiavagant stories she entertained us
with In her American days. She once
said she wondered why a pitcher of ice
water was put on glass tray by the
bed at night, then she realized that the
ice was for her brow. the tray to place
beneath her head: these kept her from
suffocating.
In warm clothes lies heath. for the
woman In warm robe is apt to turn
off the radiator and lift the windows.
BY so doing she may borrow medieval
strength. Doctors and hygienists should
join with costumers in promoting the
new fashion.
What Are These Warm Robes.
lneIe ID SUCH dId5llC CIldI6S III
house apparel this winter that It has re-
vived such old fabrics as flannel and
such antique furs as marabou. Time
was, in Victorian days. when each wom-
an possessed short sacques OF quilted
satin lined with flannel and ornafnented
with marabou. For decades we have
classed these garments with blue Bristol
glass, wooden birds in gilt cages, fire
screens of tapestry. We relegated them
to the shadows so completely that the
younger generation now regards sacques
OF Chinese brocade lined with duvetyn
and decorated with marabou as a new
modern invention, therefore excessively
desirable.
Furrers in Paris put out combing
sacques at time when houses were
partly heated when women needed the
warmth of medieval sleeping clothes.
They made them OF silk. OF crepe de
chine. of brocade; they lined them with
white rabbit. They were worn inside
out or outside In.
In one Of the beauty parlors in the
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
Crisp Weather in Rome Ideal
for Racing and Fox Hunting
Three Foxes Run Down on Capo Bianco Course Dur
ing Last Meet of the Roman Fox
Hunting Society.
Special Correspondence TO THE New York
HERALp.

Special Correspondence TO THE New York
HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau.
Rome. Dec. g.
TIME smart amusements of Rome
during this crisp. brilliant
l. weather are out of door ones,
and races and fox hunting are now
the rage. The Roman Fox Hunting
Society. of which a number of Amer
leans are members. has begun its
meets. The Eternal City, unlike other
European capitals, offers an exciting
hunt at its very gates, and in Mon
days meet no less than three foxes
were run down IN the Capo Bianco
course. outside the Porta Pia.
In spite OF Mondays chase falling
on one Of the rare rainy days OF the
season. large number of members
rode out, among them being Marchese
Camille Casati, master OF the chase;
the Contessa Antonelli. Mrs. Taylor.
Marchesa Theodoli. Duchessa 'di Mo-
rignano, signora Godio and large
number OF officers of the Tor di Quinto
and Piemonte Reale schools of the
Thirteenth Artillery. The first fox
was cornered after five minute
chase. but the next two afforded ex-
citing cross-country's and hurdles
Contessa Antonelli. Marchesa Theodoli
and Duchessa di Morignano were
awarded trophies Two more meets
are scheduled for the season
The Sunday races at the Parioli
grounds continue TO draw out all Roman
society. and now present brilliant
aspect. for the Italian society woman is
not afraid OF color and dash in her win
ter costume.
Indoor amusements attract less, and
the most social hour is now tea time.
when the cafes and hotels are thronged.
Music has rea3peared at tea tine but
tS, ..sncing seaS can hars's he said
20 have begun yet. The Family Danc-
Ing" Club gave It's first tea dance In the
palazzo Rospigliosi Sunday. and has is-
sded invitations for the opening ball OF
the season December g. a flower quad
t.lle will be feature Of the ball.
rne new Italian Ambassador TO Amer
lea. Don Geasio Caetanl. was given a
large reception by the ftalo- America AS
ISOLATION In it's beautiful headquarters
In Palnzzo Salviati. Lieut-Col. Don
nelly and Mr. Henry G. MacLean. mill
tary and commercial attaches OF the
American Embassy: Mr.. ". Nelson Gay,
honorary director Of the American
Library for Italian Studies: Comm.
Omero Ranellett and Avv Giovanni
Selvagsi. ell OF the executive committee
OF the association. received the uests
Among the prominent Americans pres
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

fabrics for house robes. One Of the hesA
brocade negligee Is linod with old brue
flannel and decorated with gray FUR.
yellow broadcloth kimono Is lined and
decorated with faded blue velvet. The
designer. copied trick of Madeleine vi
onnet In applying yellow cloth covers to
the velvet surface.
The costly kimonos are lined with
fur and fashioned Of crepe de chine
or thin brocade. Paris had a mania
last September for lining all garments.
except frocks. with fur. Chanel offered
fur lined sweaters for outdoor wear and
fur lined coats to go over one piece
frocks of crepe de chine. Cecile Sorei
lined her oceangoing travelling coat OF
beige kasha with leopard skin, running
a panel of II on the outside.
These fur lined garments have been
bulky. Women did not care for tnem
except for motoring, but the French
have blazed the path to supple, fur
lined garments which contrive to hang
in sinuous folds on the figure. The fur
lined sweaters. really overblousee. are
the most comfortable of outdoor gar
ments. One can dispense with the heavl-
ness of a coat and wrap broad Angora
wool scarf around the neck. which Ii
matched by a helmet hat Scarfs and
hats are both touched with tho Russian
pliqued cloth flowers.
Perugia of Paris has modified an an
cient slipper to go with these medieval
house robes. 1t is only for, the woman
who likes to be capricious, but 1t has
strong allure. It's solo Is an inch
thick brightly lacquered; there are
colored heels of wood, one at each end.
1t is strapped to the foot in the ancient
manner.
Other slippers bought for these robes
ARE purely Indian. They make their an
pearance In New York In a superbly
costumed play. THE Yankee Princess"
'rbe varup of these slippers Is of old blue
srede. the heels are lacquered, and
around the instep and ankle are straps
Of blue and silver. BY the way, the In
dian tunics in this play, also the skirt
of an Indian princess. indicate the
course of new garments Paris Is sending
to America to-day. The difference is
that the Indian skirt drops over net
trousers, whereas the French skirt has
a panel of material In front.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
g. No seso

the Shrew"-these have succeeded in
realizing beautiful things which we il.
France are now to enjoy.
The jewels of Cecile Sorel are already
famed but. distributed on the costumes
Of her various roles. they appeared
dcubly beautiful in new settings with
precious stones of novel color and de-
sign to catch and hold the eye.
The costumes which Cecile Sorel
brought to New York were assembled
with loving care, not only 10y Douce..
who inclines TO sumptuous apparel, but
also under the direction of a man OF ex
quisite taste, NJ. de la Pena. For roper
toire like the plays OF Alexandre Dumas
and Shakespeare tradition relies upon a
continued regeneration in art in order
that 1t may achieve fresh effectiveness.
We saw recent modes, popular with all
women, adapted perfectly to the period
in which the action takes place. This,
too is the inspiration of that great
artist, Jacques Doucet himself; thos,
OF a younger generation cannot fail I"
regard such master with feeling or
wonderment. for he contrives to create ..
style and at the same time maintain a
tradition.
The creation OF Cecile 'Sorels costumes
was accomplished for the most part at
the time Wnen the actress was u yihH
them on, which is a distinctly Partisan
tendency. One of the entresols of the
Rue de la Paix was consecrated to the
frocks. another to the. fittings. which
our Celimene conducted before an au-
dience of artists and friends who know
what Is becoming and who dare to offer
advice This was always welcome for
Sorel is sufficiently intelligent to realize
that new eye" as Lucien Daudet has
so aptly observed, Is of enormous inn
portance to a person who is absorbed
continually in a single subject Sarah
Bernhardt did the same thing for her
important productions. In the orchestra
seats and In her box sat painter and
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
Visitors to Tampa
MakeArrangements
for Pirate Pageant
Officers Chosen for sYe Mystic
Krewe Of Gasparilla,' Which
Starts Festival.

Special Dispatch to THE New York HnRALp.
TAMPA, Fla, Dec. 16. - Each year
tourists and residents eagerly look for
ward to the arrival In Tampa of the gayly
decorated ship which brings "Ye Mystic
Krewe of Gasparilla" UP the picturesque
Hillsborough River and plunges the
city into whirl Of pleasure and merri-
ment. Tampa people never tire Of this
annual festival of the followers of the
ancient pirate. who resembles him in
name only, and to the stranger the wit
Messing Of this spectacular event Is a
Unique and interesting experience. An
important meeting attended by 150
members of the Krewe chose ]. Frank
Davies Gasparilla's captain for the COM
Ing season and Clarence Holtsinger and
]. o. Perry, lieutenants.
The Tampa Tourist Club at a recent
meeting In the Tampa Bay Casino
elected John w. Booth Of Rhode Island,
president: Albert Goolah. Jr., OF New
York. vice-president, and James Z.
Meare OF Virginia. secretary.
Mrs. Pearl Doles Bell, author of sew
eral popular novels. the most recent of
which Is The Autocrat," will spend
shout ten days In tho city. having
motofed over from Orlando. where she
is spending the winter During her
brief visit she intends writing the early
chapters Of a new novel.
Mr.. and Mrs. NJ. MacRenna Of Niagara
Falls and Mrs. J. A. Wright of Buffalo
are members OF a motor party enjoying
brief visit In Tampa during a tour OF
the State.
Among recent New York arrivals are
Mr.. and Mrs II. p Sims and Mrs. Flor.
ence Schmeling of New York city. Mrs
May Whitaker and Mr.. and Mrs. c. J.
Knapp of Brooklyn, Mr.. and Mrs. d. c.
Pratt and Mr. and Mrs George L. Lyon
OF cambridge, G. d. TAFT, Morris j
Ahearn and Herbert A. de Chopper OF
Buffalo: Mr.. and Mrs. Claude Gullford
Of Wiliiamsport. u. J Weeks OF Elmira.
Mr.. and Mrs. George Choate OF White
Plains and Mr.. and Mrs. Gerald f.
Morgan of jamestown.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

to give sufficient warmth for sleep.
No, personal modesty was not a
part of medievalism. Several people
sleeping in one bed, a half dozen Sleep
ing on the floor in the same room, was
the custom more honored in the OBJ
servance than the breach. 1t con-
tinued through the civilization created
by Queen Elizabeth and the French
kings. The herding instinct did not
vanish from peoples until artificial
warmth was invented by man.
The purists seem to believe that
modesty and personal privacy arc in
herent qualities OF human nature; that
their absence reduces one to the lowest
human level But history does not teach
any such false doctrine. Modesty has
come about through applied science.
In countries where the adoption OF
mans invention for comfort are un-
known the thing we call modesty does
not exist. One might say that the ad-
vent of coal changed the characteristics
of humans. Present civilization Is based
on artificial warmth.
Clothes Correspond to Climate.
AS the dressmakers have gone back
about five hundred centuries. we have
got to study what these medieval women
wore. They have reached out a finger
from the past and taken US by the hand
There is a tremendous impulse toward
the repetition of medieval costumery
throughout the fashionable world. In
beating the air for something that would
stimulate the public into a new apprecia-
tion of clothes designers turned toward
the stretch of centuries which imme-
diately preceded and included the Re
naissance.
Therefore the mass movement OF cos
tumery is now away from pre-war
severity toward medieval Ornamental
tion, extravaganza, color, warmth. Those
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

other ladies' could not wear chiffon In
winter. nor did they wear thin crepe
Simonos. Influenced by customery OF
these centuries, the designers offer US
warm materials. long sleeves. high col
lars fur trimmed garments. Even high
Roman boots with fur are peeping over
the horizon.
: Warm Clothes for the House.
To-day we do not restrict velvet. fur.
duvetyn to gala occasions or cold after
Moons in fashionable streets. The medie-
val movement Is too strong to be limited
to festal finery. 1t strikes deep into the
wardrobe and persuades us to be fash
ionable and comfortable in room robes
of velvet heaped with fur. lined with
flannel and decorated with the various
minor peltries that furriers have
launched in lieu of precious hides. En-
tire robes OF fur have been taken up by
French women. Sometimes they use
coats that have seen better days. which
is an admirable trick In economy. The
coat that cannot be seen In public can be
worn in private, If lined with a gay
fabric. then belted or sashed in brilliant
manner.
Short fur coats have been turned into
Victorian combing sacques. These are a
revival of Importance. Beige caracul
ponyslSin. squirrel and moleskin that
have seen better days and must be re-
tired are cut into these square sacques
The lining is blue. yellow or green crepe
de Chine; the fastener Is Of some old
metallic ornament. Long fur coats have
been made into serviceable home jackets
with a coiorful lining and a sash OF
equal gaiety.
The woman who has not such gar
ments of past grandeur at her disposal
is keeping up with the medieval move
ment by making room robes of velvet,
brocade and duvetyn. She is glad that
fashion at last permits her to combat
cold weather with kimonas that keep
one comfortable. The majority of us
have depended on satin, Japanese silk,
figured cotton and flowered silk for
bathrobes and wrappers, even though
we shivered. Not until year ago d,d
the majority of women turn their
thoughts to protective room robes. One
or two coal strikes had their effect. and
the present half-rations of coal do not
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
For Evening Wear.

Godets gain greatly in interest when
they are placed directly In the front.
and one frock of black velvet has the
mark of smartness from this fact as
we'll as many others. The sleeves are
interesting on account of their odd poiI {
of velvet over the band of red cioth set
at the elbow, and the skirt is plain and
straight all the way around. The cir
cular piece which forms the soiets is
set on like an attached apron.
Even though 1t is an echo Of French
artistry which Mile. Cecile Sorel brought
to the United States, 1t is at the same
time an evidence of that essentially
French elegance, which may undergo
variations with changing periods, but
which remains so firmly rooted In the
national consciousness that nothing
neither wars, disasters. nor financial
catastrophes can destroy it's existerce.
This is not a result of the frivolous
temperament OF the French nation; on
the contrary. it is due to that gay en-
ergy which characterizes its conduct In
controversy.
French tradespeople exerted ali their
faculties In order that this charming
and talented actress might show, in the
different American cities which she vis-
tied, the elegance characteristic OF
Frenchwomen of fashion before the
war, at a time when simplicity nas rot
the keynote of both daytime and eve-
ming modes.
These manufacturers like that creativ.
genius. Doucet. like Lewis, who mad
for her, that marvellous diamond head :
dress which Americans saw her wear In
the marriage scene of THE Tanning @:
The New York herald., 1922-12-17

ent were Mr.. G. II. Houston, Under
secretary of Commerce of the United
States. who spent few hours here yes
terday en- route to Paris; Col. William
Eoyce Thompson of New York. who ar
rived recently to spend some time in
Rome; Mr.. Mott Gunther. Charge d'Af-
faires of the embassy; Consul-General
Francis Il. keene and Mr.. Walter
Cramp of Philadelphia.
Admiral Conte Thaon de Revel. Min
lister of Marine; On. Luigi Rossi Minis
ter of Commerce: Senator Schanzer,
former Minister of Foreign Affairs: Gen.
Vaccari, chief Of staff, and Gems. Piola
Caselli, Barbarich and Guglielmotti. Ad-
miral Capomazza. Comm. Cremonesi,
Mayor of Rome; Comm. Arduino-Cala-
santi, director-general OF art and
archaeology: Conte Soderini. Comm.
Pedrazzini of the Banca Nazionale di
Credito. Comm. Giorgio Page of the
Banca Commerclale, Comm. De Angels
of the Banco di Napol and Senators
Rava and Cassis were among the dis
tlnguished Italians attending the recep-
tion.
Annual Professors Arrive.
Mr.. Paul Manship. sculptor. and Mr..
Barry Faulkner painter, who have just
arrived to take up their appointments
as annual professors in the School OF
Fine Arts of the American Academy,
will soon begin work upon memorial
to two Academy fellows killed In the
great war. The memorial will be In
the form OF a wall fountain In the west
side OF the Academy cortle.
Both artists are former fellows OF the
Academy. Mr.. Faulkner. before sailing
for Spain and Italy, completed n series
OF decorative panels for the Eastman
Community Theater in Rochester N. Y.
Mr. Manship came to Rome from Paris.
where he spent last winter working
on Characteristic decorative pieces and
modelling distinguished personalities. in
cluding Mary Pickford and Ambassador
t. France Myron T. Herrick.
Mr. Manship. besides collaborating on
the Academy memorial this winter, will
complete q companion group to his
"Huntress and Dog" which Is still not
entirely completed.
Nine. Boris Ignatieff. nee Princess
Gsgarine. has left with her sister to
spend the winter on Lake Garda They
will be Joined by NJ. Ignatieff upon his
return from Africa.
The hotels are beginning 10 assume
the cosmopolitan aspect which is char
acteristic of Rome In the winter. At
the Hotel de Russie have Just arrived
Mr.. and Mrs T.. Rossl of New York.
Mr. John G. Glorieux of Boston, Prin-
cess de Metternich. Baron de Cramer
Cleft and Conte Oberdorff OF Munich,
Baro, dc Gteavenitz. His Excellercv
Martins. Minister OF Portugal; His Ex-
cellency Zadulblnden, Minister Of Ecua-
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
MedievaliSn7 Arrives
In Fashions for Robes

IEDIEVA ALI S NJ and warm
Nj clothes companioned each
= other. Climate determines
costumery. When houses were un-
heated except by smouldering fires in
the middle hall of vast stone house
people not only wore several layers of
thick fabrics but slept in their clothes
as often as not.
Bedrooms were unheated. Tallow
candles did not contribute warmth.
Beds were piled with feather mat
tresses below and feather quilts above
Dusty, moldy, voluminous curtains
were drawn over and around the bed
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
>6oso-6e7e-The street frock makes
simplicity its keynote.
6oS2--Interesting wooden fabrics
replace silk for the day frock.
No ESS2

sculptor friends who did not allow any
faulty lighting or, imperfect ensembles
to pass unnoticed.
Albert Flament, Drian and other per-
sonal friends of Sorel, the tragedienne.
were present, several of whom accom-
panied her on her journey. Jacques
Doucet was there with his wife. Mile.
Baletta, q woman Of position who was
vastly admired in Russia, and before a
mirror bofdered with brilliant lights
they changed a ribbon or accumulated
embroidery; everything was studied.
changed or retained. following the ad-
vice and opinions of this gathering OF
fastidious critics.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
THE CURE AT MOUNT CLEMENS.

MOUNT CLEMENS, Mich. Dec. ls.-
This resort lays claim to the largest tul
bath house In the word--that OF tn
Medea Hotel. Besides those with hote
rooms they have more than 900 q
baths under the same roof Guests ma
take their curative baths and retrr
10 their rooms without going outdoor
Bathing during the winter in thus FIRE,
from danger of exposure.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
GreLI AT BAGBY MUSICALE.

The artists for Mr.. Bagby's musical
morning, which will be held tomorrow
as usual In the grand ballroom OF the
waldorf-Astorla, will include Miss Luz
erezia Bori and Benjamino GiEli
berto Salvi, harpist.
The New York herald., 1922-12-17
Reps and Crepes Share Inter
est-Vel0ur Seen at the
Races.
Ucpyrlyh,, 1899. BY Vogue. New York.

Copyright, 1922. by Vogue. New York.
r fabrics for spring interest Is
equally divided between wool reps
and wool crepes. OF unusual in
terest is this unbelted frock of wool
Canton mo. 69S0) with a wide cape
blouse slashed at long shoulder line
to permit the adjustment of long tight
sleeves. The back panel Is fiat and
slightly longer than the light straight
underskirt of black Canton crepe.
There is slight fullness on each hip.
A Puritan collar of white organdie
may be rolled oack TO form revers.
Coat dresses are as important as the
three-piece suit. A version of the coat
frock in Covent Twill (e979l wraps
to the left side front. where a gathered
godet is set in at the opening. The
surplice closing is finished with a wide
draped rever.