The New York herald., 1922-10-22

aday attire of drab and russet. while
in our own day eloquent scraps Of
silk ribbon in the buttonhole Of the
most ordinary looking citizen speak
louder than words of unbelievably
heroic deeds in the late war.
Every year the ribbon makers tempt
US with new weaves and novel schemes
of color in all varieties from the hum
BILE binding ribbon to gorgeous crea-
! tions, almost two feet wide. blazing
with scarlet, blue and gold, like illu-
minated manuscripts. The milliners,
perhaps. are most keenly interested in
the novelties, particularly adapted as
| they are to their changeful art, but
ribbons have their place in the couture
as well, a place which in some seasons
is more prominent than others. and
which this year is unusually impor-
tant
! Ribbon cockades deserve chapter TO
| themselves. for all sorts of interesting
things might be said about them-things
belonging to that fascinating field of
historical research in dress, which al
ways tempts the fashion writer. We
have been wearing them in our hats for
some time and the fresh impetus given 10
| the tr.corne by the Venetian ball at the
! Opera last juno will tend to keep them
on many hats this winter.
This generation seeks to adapt It's
| clothes to as many occasions as possible,
from motives of economy both of time
and money, and there never were hats
more efficient in varied service than
those shown now. To wear a tricorne,
so popular at present, to the best adj
rto ma yy,.tc "nrOfIav nY
cameo!ike perfection: piquant features
look 700 odd to be beautiful under its
tryingly severe lines. The shape with
the turned down brim OF varying width
which shades the eyes and frames sue
cessfully almost any type OF face is far
| less dangerous, unless one knows ones
own type very thoroughly.
| A little hat from Cora Marsen Is a
model which is far safer for the ma
jority of women. 1t is in dark brown
velvet, and it's brim Is striped with
one Of the new ribbons. looking as IL Its
edges were set with little rubies sur
rounded by gold thread.
A Safe Model shown.
Each ribbon thread is pleated three
or four times at the edge Of the brim,
giving that thickness which is becoming
to many faces, and a band OF the same
is knitted round the crown, falling in
long ends in the back and passing
through little buckle in front.
| Madame Marsen often stripes the
brims OF her hats with ribbons she has
one model In gray velvet, its brim
banded evenly with gray grograin, It's
edges picoted ia silver. She fancies the
new odd ribbons, especially the double
faced ones. One OF her models. a cloche
Of brown velvet. has its brim covered
with twisted loops of a brown ribbon
faced with bright dark blue another, a
small toque OF black panne velvet, has
a mass of ribbon loops in black velvet,
! lined with gold. put on as the Bersiglieri
wear their cog feathers.
Still another hat, larger this time and
saucer shaped. has its brim, covered
with folded ribbon OF black velvet lined
with rose velvet. Madame Marsen says
that she is growing just a little tired OF
metal trimmings. The new gowns are
| frequently trimmed with them. but the
milliners began to use them lavishly as
| far back as last June and are looking
for something newer.
Cockades are "a favorite trimming
form at this house, shape OF black
satin Is trimmed with n mass OF gau-
fred black silk ribbon. half An inch
wide. placed in front and looking like
great black chrysanthernum.
! One of the most popular hats of the
summer season was that In which the
crown was made Of velvet ribbons OF
several different shades. This idea has
| been adapted to winter millinery. Ca
mile Roger makes n tortoise shell brown
| hat its brim OF wool chenille and Its
crown Of matching velvet ribbon, with
many loops both under and over the
| brim at one side.
| Many winter models are trimmed with
| fiat ribbon bows placed in the back. In
the front or at the side. One popular
model Is made Of tightly massed flowers
of narrow ribbon in all shades OF brown,
beautifully blended Another. OF dark
brown velvet, had It's brim cut out and
filled in with twisted strands Of match
ing ribbon. like spokes in wheel.
| Still another. in black velvet. had
pointed sections made of narrow black
ribbons. in rows, placed under the brim
on each side and standing out beyond
| the brini
| A visit to any mllliner in Paris will
show new uses OF this favorite form OF
trimming. When one thinks Of rsbbons