Evening star., 1922-12-31

box.pleated skirts, which are re-
vivaf Of interest. = Pleats are wide.
not narrow. Knife pleating is kept
for soft skirts that carry sweaters
and sport blouses. Circular. skirts
have a wide box pleat at one side:
others have a annat pleat ora gath
cred panel exactly in front, which
draws attention to itself al It's source
by beginning in a huge bow OF print
ed crepe to matcir the girdle. -'''-' -.
Tha nat Egyptian panel placed in
front Is somewhat popular. but the
folded. panel seen in. frocks of an
cient Alexandrian days Is the proper
way to place drapery on new skirt.
Side -drapery- continues. but . sharp
flare of fuHnesa In the middle front
Is undoubtedly the now touch. Lotus
leaf panels. decorated. are dropped
over short. plain skirts. - -'-i~~
-" .** + *-'': "'.:
THERE. Is n determined s}fprt to
i place conspicuous ribbon rosettes
or long loops and ends in. front of
one hip. Black velvet frocks appear
at lunch tables with sashes of six
and eight inch blue velvet ribbon tied
in front Of the loft hip. Immense
colored. rosettes Of ribbon are attach
ed to the, side of q skirt after the
fashion Of decorating the, head Of q
Brittany horse. Evening gowns carry
these rosettes Of ribbon in gold and
silver metal tissue.
Foulard Is revived. It is combined
with serge. It is rarely left to itself.
The dressmakers assemble . blouse
Of foulard and a little cape and skirt
Of serge; the cape has a collar Of
foulard. 1t is really nothing moro
than a. shawl. Jackets are short,
some of them reaching only to the
upper part Of hips. Cut as short as
this. they show a wide expanse Of
overblouse made Of foulard. Of print
ed crepe. Of plain crepe beaded. en-
broidered. or ribboned.
Black taffeta Is sparingly used, but
the fact that II Is used at all Is sig
nifficant. One now frock has q full
circular skirt edged with white braid
and q short jacket which ends in q
circular peplum that ripples around
tho body and shortens the waistline.
It's edge Is finished with braid. and
there Is . white chiffon bib instead Of
collar, in three layers, fastened
with black bow In front. Surely
this idea has novelty. The waistline
grows shorter in many models. When
dressm4kers are fearful to launch 1t
without excuse or apology. they en-
hroider 4 girdle in a curious pattern
and bring It as far above the waist
limo as below 1t. This trick 10 taken
as evidence that tho hip girdle may
soon be a finished fashion.
Sleeves are long and tight, and
often have circular hounces between
elbow and wrist but tho newest idea
is to put a wide patch Of beaded or
embroidered fabric over the elbow.
tying it to the arm with ribbon or q
beaded band. Tho ribbon Is finished
with q small bow above tho point OF
elbow. It looks as though q woman
were trying to hide a hole in her
sleeve, but 1t is q fantastic trick Of
importance.
The peasant sleeve is not finished.
Blouses and frocks continue the low
cred armhole with a full sleeve gath
cred into 1t and to a tight wristband.
At top Of sleeve Is embroidery done
in bands Of red, black. blue and yell
low, not in bright tones. but faded
cnes such as Persians use in old car
pets. In truth. carpet patterns are
used by embroiderers to ornament
frocks and hats. The embroidery
pattern of the Russians, which is like
n water wave with q croSSstitCh be-
tween, is a. simple and effective en-
broidery for peasant sleeves It is
easily done at home, but remember