The New York herald., 1922-06-04
Novel Trimmings Feature the
COlOred Straw Hats to Be
Worn With the Gowns.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.

Copyright, lJZ2, Dy vogue, new 1ork.
TINE garden blossoms under the
glowing sun of June. until the
l. flowers, like those in Renoir's
famous beau jardin." seem a single
bouquet of a thousand coiors. Within
the garden, like butterfly. ethereal and
hardly pausing in it's fight, woman fits
here and there among the shrubbery.
seeking shady corner where, alone
with the dancing insects and the sky OF
the blue of Chinese silk. she may read,
dream. or idle in silence.
Who among the women who make the
fashions can live In the country without
finding in it a new opportunity to ex
press herself in her costume, without
wishing to wear in this freer and less
formal life more personal and individual
attire, new and exotic froN)ks which
owe something 60 the new art and IN
which she seems one more flower in the
immense bouquet which surrounds her
house? The woman who spends much
of her day in the sheltered park of some
country estate, far from the chance gaze
of casual passers-by. thus combines In
her costume such harmonies of color and
such beauties of line as are the dreams
of the artist decorator
Among the thin. cool frocks which
Paris offers for summer days and
nights, one may find the means to be
both charming and comfortable even
In midsummer. but that. of course, is
not the whole story of the summer
wardrobe. One must think also of more
formal costumes. of the needs which
may be met, perhaps. by gowns of light
silks. or at least of occasions which
require a somewhat more formal toilette.
fete at the casino or at some neigh
boring chateau. for example.
Enigma of Gown.
The more one sees of frocks at pres
ent, the more one wonders what the
autumn mode viii be, for the women of
fashion refuse to give any definite pref
erence to any type of frock, while in
one of the Paris houses which is at pres
ent attracting numbers of smart women,
they are showing only patterned or
flowered stuffs made in fashion so
unexpected that one can not tell where
a frock begins or where it ends. 1t
seems a mere veil thrown about the
body. a veil in which one is wrapped
and which trails wings from the arms.
but which gives the beholder no i'm
preston that it is either an afternoon
gown or an evening gown. 1t Is cut low
without being really low, and is a veri-
table enigma of gown, over which
every woman of taste seems to be going
mad at the moment.
Without doubt it is the perfect dream
Of gown for summer days. Who
would not look slim and elegant in this
flowered crepe of every color, or merely
black and white which seems to have
required no cut at all. yet which must
certainly have had most skillful one to
gown so beautifully those who wear it.
These lowered or large patterned
fabrics seems indeed the loveliest and
most satisfactory stuffs for summer
frocks. but they must have hats to ac-
company them. and there lies the diff
hculty: for as the frock is a work of
art, so must the hat be also. Reboux.
the house to which the Parisienne so
often turns in matters of special difli-
Guilty. even when she is not regularly a
client there. is showing hats both large
and small, as unusual and as charming
as the frocks.
In the first place. the colors of the
straws at this house suggest flowers
and sunshine and all that Is luminous
and gay. and then there are the trim
mings. such novel and effective touches
as a red velvet ribbon bordered on one
side with black lace. and on the other
with white lace. on very large shape
four brilliant colors encircles the hat
running high on the crown. Then
there are casquette shapes, with the
brim very short in the back and de-
cdedly wide I'm the front, but having
movement quite different from that
seen IN somewhat similar hats two
years ago. and rising perceptibly in
stead of coming down over the eyes.
Pompons Of plumes rise very high at
single point. or il may be that
single quill runs to extreme length
just in the middle OF a shape with y
square crown and almost invisible
brim.
Large Hat of Beehive shape.
one Of the great successes of the
season Ia a large hat Of silk pleated TO
a "bee-hive" shape. and trimmed only
with ribbon of the same color
lSnotted at the side. The little hat Of
black or natural color suede closely
fitting the head. IL much worn with
the tallleur or In the afternoon with a
wrap which hides the formal tea frock.
Reboux also makes the conventional
toauc hut usually IN pekin de satin or
failie II suggests the coiffure OF the
"Maade Imaginaire" and Is one OF tho
most satisfactory OF hats for windy
days.
Among the springtime hats which
might accompany these howery frocks
is certain type OF felt hat which has
had n notable success in recent months
by virtue Of its novel and effective trim
Al. a