The New York herald., 1922-08-06
BY coRLIss HoovEN GRIFFIs.


really once again in lie Mans
and that once more We are to
see France-that wonderful, danger
Gus. beautiful, heartrending country
that took SO much from us and has
given 50 much in return. The France
that has been seen so often and by
so many, but only once by the
Doughboy; the France as he saw it
and felt it.
From the minute that we, a group
of very ordinary Americans who had
been in France during the war, ar
rived in lie Mans tired, dusty, and
very, very thirsty, and sat down at
table in the nearest cafe. we have
realized that we are in different
place from America, and also in 4
France that is different to US.
one would never think that this is
the same lie Mans where nearly a
million American troops were outfit
ted, deloused or billetted during the
war. There was no center in France
that was more thoroughly under the
domination and influence of Amer
leans than this city. However, IL
there is any visible trace of that
occupation left anywhere we have
SO far failed TO discover il.
OF course the place is full of men,
ories of Americans, for every nhahi-
tant remembers our occupation as
the gala time in the history OF the
CITY. Not even when the King OF
France came here with all his court
to escort Madame de Maintenon to
Paris about two hundred years ago
was lie Mans in its zenith. That
time was reserved for the American
soldier-and his liberal payday.
The first place tina: we sought after
we found our bearings was the Place
de la Republique, the public square.
Nowhere does one feel the ,hange Of
the last four years more than here.
and in spite OF yourself tinse of
feeling that might pass for home
sickness-a peculiar homesickness
for days that are gone-comes over
You. The American band stand in the
center of the square has disappeared
and the spot looms empty.
But even more than this. no longer
does Old Glory float out over the
Headquarters Building. dominating
the whole city, and not 10 find ii
there gives one sense of being ever
50 far away from home. The building
itself looks just the same, except
that we miss the throngs OF Ameri-
cans who made il remarkable hive
Of industry.
Around the square the many cafes
with the tables and chairs on the
sidewalks are deserted. Formerly
they We're fun OF Second Lieuten-
ants, and we miss Sam Browne
belts and spurs. But most of all,
there is not an NJ. y. in sight.
What is lie Mans without them,
They had caused us all continual
mental anguish, particularly those
OF us who had failing about be-
ing A. w. o. l.. Many of US
who We're best trained at scouting
and patrolling when we got 10 the
front received our most finished in
struction by Godsing the NJ. P.s back
of the lines.
1t was but a step from the square
TO the old Hotel dc Pelican, where so
many of the boys spent happy hours
during the war. 1t was one of the
few places that were not oyerrun with
officers, hence not spoilt for "the
boys" The proprietor had been my
stanch friend. and ! was anxious TO
find him again. When we entered
the door of the hotel we saw that
this place at least hal not changed
a particle. The old man was still be-
hind his high desk and the same at
mosphere pervaded everything.
Going up to him and mastering
my choicest French / asked him if
he remembered me. Slowly AM pom
lerously he climbed down from his
stool, adjusted his speetacles. then,
''Yes-yes s-YES-it is ~ il IS ~ my
friend the American soldier And
then, with a wild waving of arms
that would have done great credit to
any system of oalisthenics he en-
barlSed on a leaping torrent Of words