The New York herald., 1922-09-17

planned of In Americans last spring;
they all dress alike
You may remember the widespread in
terviews with distinguished Paris and
London designers and merchants last
spring In our papers. They expressed
themselves copiously concerning their
surprise at the hundreds of women in
America who wore the same cut and
color of gown One concluded after
reading these interviews that every
Paris woman wore a costume that diff
fered from the other Paris woman. Not
so.
Parisfennes Dress Alike.
Just as the Parisienne wore the gray
and black pin striped flannel chemise
frock with a string girdle during the
year after peace. Just as she wore the
gray and black cloth suit by O'Rossen
and his imitators SO she wears to-day
the black crepe de chine chcmise frock
with winged drapery at the side.
At Deauville she wears leather and
suede suits. or homespun skirts with
suede jumpers. or crepe de chine skirts
with printed black and white jumper.
Chinese in design. She wears a suede
hat or a soft felt one. When she
changes from black she goes into Gin
namon brown. In the evening she
Truly, there is monotony here.
The dressmakers are doing their best.
1t is not their fault that women won't
vary the monotony. They are working
like beavers. But none OF them has
been sufficiently powerful to throw
over the existing contour of gowns and
establish new one.
All of which is to say that the Amer
lean woman in choosing her clothes this
f~a al.tH nf Inn
or the fashions of August as they were
launched in Paris and not feel ashamed
OF her appearance IL she finds the gown
OF last February sufficiently preserved
to wear.
Yet, and this is the important fact.
the French have thrown so much imagt-
nation into alluring details that the
American woman leaps at them like
trout to bait. We like details In our
country. 1t is the shopkeepers and the
dressmakers who want complete over
turn of one seasons fashions so that the
trade will be briskcr and publicity
easier.
Apathy Toward Long Sleeves.
There has been a strange apathy
among the French women toward the
verdict for long sleeves. she continues
10 wear sleeveless frocks even at Ave In
the afternoon. When winter comes she
may change but II Is the concerted
American opinion that winter came 10
Europe on the first of July. Yet on
days that the Americans we're shivering
IN raincoats and wooden frocks the
French women at pleasure places we're
out on the wind swept verandas with
bare arms and often In organdie gowns.
one American said. mo wonder the
medical records have printed the amaz-
ing statistics Of tuberculosis In France
There Is gown by Jean Patou.
created for the winter and successful
among the French. which II sleeve
less garment OF black crepe draped
and caught with silver flowers on one
hin. which Is good evidence that Paris
will not entirely drop the short sleeve,
no matter what America does.
There Is another gown, by Rolande,
Of black crepe with orange and gold
embroidery and panel OF orange
georrette In the front OF skirt that
simply omits any suggestion OF sleeve.
II has a cape back that looks like a
panel. looped and caught up at the
waistline which Is fashion Chanel
lnaugurated and continues.
Despite these evidences Of short
sleeves to please French women. the
observer who looks beneath the sur