Evening star., 1922-06-18

Bh4peQ opening WHICH SHOWS muCn
Of the blouse beneath the arm. II one
wants such q Jacket in simple ma
terial, all we'll and good, but the
tendency is toward sumptuous orna-
mentation in the Slavic manner.
II a woman has 4 white lace or
chiffon gown for afternoon hours.
she may put q sleeveless Jacket Of
soft brocade over 1t. outlining the
edges with metal gaIloon or narrow
strips Of white fur in the actual Rus
sian manner.
1t is not a fashion to be initiated
In muslin, in foulard. in crepe or
cotton print. It IL lifted out Of that
class by the fact that the jacket
must present a strong contrast to the
skirt or the gown, that its obvious
intention is to be gay and festive.
When autumn brings chill weather
there may be sleeveless jackets OF
soft fur. or even cloth jackets eIabo-
rately embroidered with tinsel and
worn over gowns of velvet or crepe.
1t is not q fashion to be snuffed
out like a candle. II treated rightly,
it will remain with US for months.
~ 4 =
TT 10 q curious idea to bring leaf
L brown into fashion when leaves
are greeuest The dominance OF the
color, however. leaves no one in doubt
that It is sponsored BY the best. 1t
is worn At the p1easure places as
often as beige. Frequently the two
are combined. 1t 10 merely q deep
expression Of beige, until it takes
on the tone Of seal.
The newly accepted crinkle fabrics.
in various tones Of brown. One sees
suits OF this fabric with short jackets
frightened at the hip line and faced
with beige crepe de chine, which rolls
back in q long collar from neck to
waist. Lanvin. Of Paris. sent this
particular suit to US.
Ono sees brown lace ana chiffon in
afternoon and evening frocks. brown
tulle topped with tinsel where smart
folks dance and dine. Some of the
brown Is snuff-colored: again It is
like . dry and cracked Leaf. 1t
brings taupe in its wake. Smart
women have begun to wear gathered
capes Of taupe georgette crepe held
around the shoulders with narrow
bands of otter. Almost Victorian, this
fashion.
BEIGE rivals white. Efforts to oust
1t have been vain. 1t has run its
course for two years. There's no
evidence Of its failing to hold public
attention. One new summer gown
uses beige tatfeta for a cuirass bod
ice. showing wide gathered to the
edge Of bodice near the normal waist
line. Over this beige lace runs tiny
design Of tinssl.
If anyone wonders why the word
"tinsel" appears SO frequently in the
fashion stories of the hour. the
answer is that the thing itself ap-
pears so frequently in the gowns of
the moment. The dressmakers use
the Kind Of tinsel one uses on
Christmas tree. The display of it is
nor crude enough to offend the eye.
1t Is run in and out OF fabrics that
have q coarse mesh.
It is used to border a straw hat,
1t is stitched on one fabric to be
used as . border Of another fabric
It edges wide medieval sleeves. 1t
serves rs a border to a neckline. 1t
IL more desirable than gilt braid. for
it is . trifle as light as air. 1t was
an arrow shot into air in . capricious
moment In Paris. It stuck. We like
it. It will probably run along with
new garments next winter. Orna-
mentation and patterned fabrics are
definitely established, you know. It's
the swing Of the pendulum.
TT Is easier to decide on the pos
l session Of lace gown than to
look we'll in 1t. One must be an artist
to deal with lace. even when 1t is
used in negligible quantity. An en-
tire gown Of 1t commands considers
ton.
The French have worn colored lace
frocks for a year. Americans have
accepted them in haphasard manner.
They are offered for hot weather as
one Of the solutions Of the struggle
to be comfortable. They demand q
good lining, they insist upon some
sort OF ornamentarion.
The French put brightly colored
flowers with q lace frock. When
they add purple and pink morning
Slories to beige lace, they make 1t