The New York herald., 1922-05-07

sure OF the prestige or beading, so
whenever word comes from Paris that
any kind of costume Is beaded those who
like beads or have them to sell use 1t
as an argument for the sale of gowns
that are covered with this most ancient
| and constantly revived form of orna-
mentation.
The season that opened here In
| March for Easter was prolific in beaded
clothes. The shops offered every out
side garment with lines or curves or de-
signs done in thin or thick beads. Paris
said that only the American buyers
wanted this kind of workmanship the
American merchants insisted that this
| was the last word of Paris on fashion
able spring costumery. So the argu-
ment was waged without ceasing
throughout the first months of the warm
| season. The sensible folk did what they
were pleased to do. If they disliked
beaded frocks they ignored them IL
they liked them they bought and wore
them. They were easy to get. No one
needed to pine for them.
One of the most popular evening
| frocks of the early season, which ap-
pears in several colors, including black,
has straight lines of glistening white
crystal beads placed so close together
that the entire surface of the fabric
| takes on luster and character. This
ornamentation is the only thing that at
| tempts to make the frock conspicuous, as
| the chemse lines of 1t are exceedingly
| simple and commonplace. Odd. isn't it.
how certain gown in each season will
catch the public and suddenly appear
on several hundred persons within the
week? The boxcoat suit of Lanvin with
the embroidered sleeves is another
favorite Of the early spring that has as
| many reproductions as the crazy mirrors
| of Coney Island. Lovely things are
forsaken. A few things are run into
| the ground.
1t is not fair to beading, however, to
| dismiss ii without differentiating one
type from another. There are evening
gowns. especially those in white which
have elaborate and skillful beading that
contributes large measure of distinc-
tion and keeps the gown from looking
as though it were made up by the hun
dreds by fast machinery.
| The frocks that have the heavy down.
ward strokes of crystals on somber
background, the popular ones, retain an
| appearance of well being. But the vast
variety of cheaply made colored crepe
frocl1s with wide bands of white crystals
running across the figure are in the
ranks of the things we had possibly
better avoid, not only because they are
commonplace but also they are perish
| able.
When the high priced dressmakers
offer gowns with beading one sees that
the work is delicately done, kind of
! hoarfrost tracery whose fragility never
accentuates its existence.
Borders of beading are good, provid-
ing they are we'll done and sturdily
| stitched. Otherwise a woman finds her
self disgustedly picking up strands of
- n. l..
saves the first few strands she loses,
hoping to sew them on the frocl the
next day, but she soon resigns herself to
| the bare spaces their disappearance
| leaves on the fabric and trusts that the
| public has not keen or accusing eyes.
Keen Interest I'm Lingerie Blouse.
1t is not in ornamentation of frocks,
however. that the majority of women
are interested when the warm weather
makes one throw the worsted frock into
| the discard. 1t Is in the garments that
are accessories to the gown or suit, so
when those who make fashions decided
that IL was time to reinstate the blouse
that goes to the washtub women over
the country leaped to the idea like
spring trout to bait.
France reinstated the lingerie blouse
/
and the fancful one of colored crepe de
chine. Any one who watches closely
the straws In the air could have foretold
the emphasis that Paris was to put on
the Jacket suit by the costly and varied
blouses she invented last summer.
We in America had little to do with
the jumper blouse Of heavy knitted fab
RIGS until this spring. and we did not
wear white ones at all II we were fash
ionable. unless II was for the open field
of sports. This season we pick up the
idea where France picked Il up last
spring. Our shops offer knitted jumper
blouses. the dressmarkers are making
MILDLY blouses in costly fabrics. Slowly
we are awakening to the lure of the
white lingerie blouse. the kind with the
pleated frill and the elongated collar.
Pay attention to that newer line at the
neck. 1t is important.
Paris, via Cannes and Nice, has
adopted the Peter Pan round collar of
the American. which has been a kind
OF uniform with us for several years, but
we are now considering the long roll
collar with affection. Undoubtedly II is
the newer line for all blouses The
"bateau" neck Is in the second class. be-
loved though II be by the majority.
However. working along the habltuaI
path. the majority will speedily forget
the old for the new. We do everything
by the millions like the Chinese. be-
cause there are so many of us to do Il,
and the moment We are replicas Of each
other happiness reigns.
As TO this incoming blouse. II is not
| only white. although that is the color
| preferred but II Is striped and checked
! also family colorod over the whole SUR
| face. Mauve and flag red. raspberry
pink and fog gray are colors chosen.
| There is fine tucking, also open work.