The New York herald., 1922-07-23

Both Black and White Designs
Find Favor in New Paris
Costumes.
Copyright. 1922. by Vogue. New York.
A PHRODITE, as she watched heI

A PHROD1TE, as she watched her
~ own sea fling the long f1ounces
of its waves on the Cyprian
sands, must have had a faint feminine
tnkling of lace-of the fall of valen-
ciennes from Manon's sleeve. perhaps,
or the frill of some mysterious vene-
tian mask.
The women who first wore lace were
the charmers of sophisticated age.
Manon Lescaut. Ninon de lEnclos, Mines.
de Pompadour and du Barry are some
OF their names. Their artificial lowell
ness was lighted by candles. reflected in
long mirrors. made Irresistible with lace
that drifts across the splendors of the
reigns OF the Louis like the carvings on
their chateaus and cathedrals. And
later Spanish Empress of the French
softened her beauty with the laces of
Spain and France.
Paris, always loyal to the traditions
or French beauty and French industries.
has revived lace this summer and made
II more the fashion than 1t has been in
years. Every sort OF lace is smart; silk
lace. wool lace. lace founces. Spanish
lace. Chantilly. metal lace. the various
dyed laces--for silk and wool lace can
be dyed to perfection. Frocks are made
pleated skirts of crepe in the same color.
Black lace over white and white lace
over black-combinaton which we have
not seen in years--find favor this sum-
rner, and for the autumn evening gowns
of gold and silver lace over slips OF
bright colored velvet are predicted.
Black Chantilly lace is used with
printed chiffons and boldly figured
foulards. These lace trimmed dresses.
aft tat, avaf NO
frilled, often have three lace flounces on
a fairly full skirt. This fashion calls
for the normal waist line. to which we
seem to be returning. This type of dress
is essential to the American woman who
comes to town often during the summer
to dine at restaurants and who wishes
to wear something light and cool which
is not an evening dress. Many of these
lace dresses are made with a short un-
derskirt and a long transparent lace
overslxirt, which shows the ankle-a be-
coming way of accomplishing the transi-
ton to long skirts
Paris combines fur with lace capes,
the loveliest Of garments. and brown lace
and sable or black lace and ermine are
most beautiful combinations. Lace is
also generously used on blouses. collars
and cuffs, and Is combined with embroid-
cry on net or batiste.
Lace seems so necessary and appropri-
ate for lovely women that one wonders
how the beauties Of dim classic ages
were so beautiful without 1t. Cleopatra
had her pearls: Argive Helen had her
golden sandals and the fillet in her hair
But still one can not quite see now tney
got on without lace.
One of the most notable changes this
season is the gradual appearance OF the
low curved V neck line with high back.
which seems to be taking the place OF
the charming but overwarked bateau
line. One model is developed in new
yellow-brown shade OF crepe de cnine
known as pain brule." The tucked or
pieated vest and graceful collar are Oh
ecru organdie. The sleeves may be worn
short. White frostkrepe makes the peas
ant blouse and simple skirt of the at
tractive sports costume at the right. The
neck line, dropped shoulder and wide
sleeves are authentic details OF Russian
and Balkan peasant costumes. Hed'
blue and black worsted forms the Rus-
sian motif.
Although capes have played an I'M
portant part for several seasons past
nothing has appeared which really re-
places them. This is probably due TO
their adaptability to a wide variety or
fabrics. Beige is very strong color
note of the season: in fact. all the
nlances of color from the deepest brown
to ecru are particularly approved. a
smart design is In beige silk or wool al
paca and may be lined with a contrast
ing shade to make it reversible.
For the girl from fourteen, to twenty
white silk jersey makes an excellent
scmi-sports frock for country wear. The
surplice closing, dropped shoulder line
and bell sleeves are emphasized by sew
eral lines Of cordinet stitching in vivid
peasant colors. Knitted silk is one OF
the most important notes OF the season
and is firmly established as perma-
nent and fully approved fabric. 1t is
particularly good for warm weather
clothes because 1t has great possioilities
for tailoring and has none of the dis
comfort of cloth fabrics.
Velvet never entirely disappears from
me summer millinery mode. IT has been
very popular as a trimming. but here 1t
Is used for the entire hat. The wavy
brin is trimmed with bias fold OF
black satin, and toward the back. ws1ere
Il suddenly becomes narrower. is mass
OF petals in satin and velvet.
Organdie has always been used Tor
sur.ner hats but 1t has never been so
popular as this season. Cyclamen pink
organdie is used for model which
has a large crown that. is corded and
bent into a shape slightly pointed in
front Organdie tabs embroidered In
white trim the edges >of the siashed
brim. and pale pink rose placed under
the brm on the right side completes the
charming ensemble.
Leghorn Us one of the favored straws
OF the season and velvet one OF the
sniarest trimmings. They meet on this
large hat, and the velvet is twisted about
the crown. forming a huge bow on the
SIGHT side.
Masonic To;Jc Pov;yod