davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1922-01-22
BY ANNE arTrENHOUsE.

The eyes Of those whose fortunes
are invested in the business Of maxi
ing clothes turn to France. The
submarine decision. the discussion of
disarmament of armies and navies is
not the acute problem to the Dress
makers and manufacturers; 1t is the
decision on apparel. The fight for
less armament affects the future, the
tight for colors against black affects
the present. Ones children may have
to stand the future: oneself must
stand the hour and the moment. Now
that winter comes, we know that
spring Is on the way. and with it a
possible new turn in the tide of
clothes.
This coming week the American
buyers will be gathered in Paris to
hear and to see what the arbiters of
fashion put forth. Heads Of houses
have crossed the roaring forties to
b on the battle-ground and bring
Evening star., 1922-01-22

Gabrielle Chanel Of Paris, who Is ono
of the well dressed designers in a
well known set, Is wearing and max
ing these blouses. They cost 1900
francs. The money goes to the poor
Russians who sit all day in the ouv.
roirs, where they are kept warm and
properly fed.
These blouses are Of heavy cream
crepe de chine, which serves as q
neutral foundation for tho gorgeous
bands of embroidery which fortunate
and shrewd Americans brought from
Russia in pre-Lenin days. Just here Q
word to the wise. II you have any Of
this handiwork. no matter where you
got 1t, use it quickly. for in another
month you will be in tho top-notch
Of fashion.
+ 4
PODIER, the fabric designer in
Paris, was quick to see the new
movement toward Russian ideas, so
he put on the market wide cotton gal
looms covered with highly-colored
Evening star., 1922-01-22

When there are only a few inches
OF fabric to work on, it is not the
easiest thing in the world to con-
stantly devise new and interesting
things to interest buyers. One can
work on wondrous schemes, both
good and new, with big pieces of ma
terial. which are intended to be
draped on large and well poised
bodies, but when it comes to work
ing for children, there's the rub.
1t is really quite amazing what is
accomplished in such tiny costumes.
One is finished almost before one
has begun. and yet ingenuity and
skilled workmanship get full play.
Several years ago an American de-
signer Of juvenile clothes bethought
herself Of the interesting scheme Of
putting a fight Of colored butter
flies across the surface Of q frock.
She cut the butterflies out of fine
linen in such pastel shades as pink,
yellow and blue, and buttonholed
them to the handkerchief linen Of the
short and otherwise simple frock.
The effect was magical. One felt
that June had come, that a garden
Of sweet smelling flowers had been
brought into the heated indoors. To-
day. that idea is good and successful,
but 1t has many rivals, some not so
gracious. Some one, somewhere. be-
gan to put small animals on the
surface Of Juvenile gowns and the
idea grew until it was accepted as
conventional.
Birds ara Of course, the first
thought Of these colorists. Small
pigs and puppies. tiny Gates and rab-
bits appeared. They were embroid-
cred or cut from colored cloth. The
sketch shows frock for a youngster,
which has on the fou1ard, pat
termed t design intended for
the nur Of the frock Is
built OF ed silk and the
It seems strange to the conventional
to put children into three-piece
gowns and yet this is done. No one
balks At following adult styles in
nursery clothes. This blue serge
could be heightened and widened and
suit the mother Of tho child very
we'll, but that fact in these days,
does not make the costume any the
less desirable for one who is ashamed
to show the knees.
The hat, by the way, is built to
match the frock. It's a way the
dressmakers have, this matching the
headgear to the gown and keeping
the milliner froms the chance to
PLEASE one with q harmonious. hat.
To 60 back to juvenile. clothes.
howsyae. Blue serge u the fabric Of
ne hour for the yeungstsrs. possibly
Evening star., 1922-01-22
A Convalescent's Reading Table.

Violet Heath was recovering very sat
isfactorily from a long illness. For
weeks. it seemed. she had opened her
mouth and closed it, said '.ninety-nine''
and ''one, two, three" over and over
again, while her poor chest was thumped
and examined-and now, at last, her
chest symptoms had disappeared.
Sne was declared. In the language of
the doctors, to be "out Of the woods"
And in her big, airy pink bedroom she
was doing her best to convalesce in the
most approved fashion, with due regard
to calorfes. vitamines and hours OF 70
Taxation.
years of happy days, was weary and
time dragged maddeningly. The hours
that her mother was out of the room
she listened to the clock ticking
until, almost mechanically, she found
her thin hand moving weakly, keep
ing time with the tick-tock Of the
little china clock.
"Idiotic," she would murmur, and
turn her attention to the walls. Ths
pictures that were 30 familiar, the
pattern Of the wallpaper. the crack
in the windowslass whore johnnie
had thrown q stone at the balcony
and missed 1.-THE very patch that
had been applied with dainty care to
her filmy. lace curtains-bored her
Every little silly detail hammered
.tsa1f into hor hrafn And Ai1e: wag
tired of herselt-of her thoughts, Of
the silly little ideas that trailed
aimlessly across her mind.
At want to read" she announced
one morning.
But the book she desired was q
dead weight in her btue-veined hands
and in ten minutes It fell to tho fioor.
|. There was Q pain IN the back 81
her neck from the ebert e4 a4temDt-
Evening star., 1922-01-22

ions when her aristocrsts were driven
during the revolution to the shores
Of Englsnd. When the Duke Of Wei.
lington and his fair friends invaded
Paris after Waterloo the fashions be.
came English. It was smart to fol-
low the clothes and the customs Of
those who had come from London as
conquerors over that Napoleon whom
aristocracy despised. Historians
dwell much upon the power Of In
vaders to upset established customs
and bring new and potent influences
to bear upon q people who have drift
ed into rut through lack Of fresh
blood. Sometimes the invaders are
swallowed up by the people they
came to conquer; but nothing ever
remains exactly the Same after q
fresh influx OF new peoples into an
old land.
Last summer in Paris the designing
houses were busy absorbing titled
Russians as vendeuses or designer,
Evening star., 1922-01-22

A few American nrlns followed suit
It got to be said around the smart So
cial sets in France that no dressmak-
ing house was complete without .
Russian duchess Of it's own. Amer
leans were highly entertained by q
titled emigre serving them, showing
the new clothes. posing In hats, wraps
and frocks. 1t lent an air Of festiv-
ity and amusement to an otherwise
drab and fretful business.
Then, as now, the Russians are
starving in Paris. OF that there II
small doubt. Appeals for help were,
and are, continuous. During such
appeals a strange and illogical thing
happened: The Americana, under the
direction Of Miss Anne Morgan, were
asking aid for devastated France on
one hand, while the French were ask.
ing aid for the noble refugees from
Russia on the other hand. Our sym.
pathy was expended on tho French.
French sentiment was expended on
the Russians. Positions for them
were asked and found. Women whose
Evening star., 1922-01-22
HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS
BY N. JESSIE LETTCH,

ing to hold the book. She was dis
appointed. She struggled with tears
that were very near.
Then came her father, stamping
cheerily up the stairs. with snow
fakes shining in, his hair and a new
book tucked under his arm.
Mother said you felt like reading"
he began. Then saw the book that
had fallen to the floor, sensed the
bitterness Of his little daughters dis
appointment over this evidence Of her
weakness.
"Hands bit weak?'' he said, r
know q trick to help that"
And he stamped down the stairs
again ana out to the garage.
He brought . wooden box back to
the bedside, box Just large enough
to cover the girls knees.
She stared in amazement
But when her father began to carve
the edges from the box, with fine
disregard for the polished floor. she
began to understand.
From each side Of the box he cut
away pieces Of wood until the box
rested. on the bed and across the
girls knses without touching her.
Nails were driven into the box at
each end. FREQ end Of tho nail being
left to hold tho pages Of the book
which this kindly father placed on
the improvised reading table. The
nails helped to hold the book firmly,
without any effort from the girl.
Eagerly she tried it out and found
that she could sit up and read most
comfortably. The only thing she had
to do was to turn the pages.
Looks a bit rough. We can paint
It, or cover it with ehintz." said her
father. Meantime, 1t fllls the bill
and takes the strain OF your hands.
does + :setss And sY3slst aSsasd.
Aavpllx 0a& & - .-...----.--..
Evening star., 1922-01-22

ria-Hungary must spend his exile.
This kind of ornamental work is q
patterned perforation in the cloth
with edges embroidered. When
Worth puts it on his new frocks he
has no intention of letting It hide
itself He puts a bright red. green
or turquoise silk lining beneath 1t TO
show through the holes. Possibly he
adds a girdle at the hips which
matches the color of the underslip.
Evening star., 1922-01-22

and are tightly fitted to the figure at
the hem.
A writer from Paris says that black
hard to kill-but dressmakers over
there believe they are finishing their
ninth life at this hour. Welcome
idea. Red gowns embroidered in
gold. bright blue frocks embroidered
in silver, frequently make their ap-
pearance at the dancing places where
smart society gathers to set the
styles.
Silver cloth is having no end of q
success from the Paris viewpoint and
turquoise blue in replacing black in
the more formal gowns worn at big
affairs at the expensive and crowded
pleasure spots.
There are silks printed like cali
Goes and Chinese brocades. which are
offered for spring frocks; their bind
ing Of black lacquered ribbon is a
tribute to dying fashion. Square
capes in vivid colors, made of satin.
crepe de chine ana faille, are placed
world repudiates the monotony Of one
color.
Such capes are like the blankets
carried by the Taos Indians in New
Mexico In those vivid streets where
one encounters a. many New York
artists hunting for color ~ Indians
waiting for a chance to pose. 1t is
safe to say that II Paris artists were
excited over the colors Of the Taos
land French clothes would imme-
diately reflect it. They gather in
spiration from just such sources in
France. and we go to France to see
what she has seen-and utilized.
There are other means than bright,
square, capss Suspended from the
wrists by jeweled bracelets to Offset
the black foundation to which some
women cling. Worth Of Paris Is Of
fering new black gowns that have
superimposed color in garlands Of
roses and grapes. Not fragile gar
lands. these, but weighty accessories
that keep the attention diverted from
the somber background. reviving even
SO commonplace fabric as black
crepe into new life. France offers
such costumes to us for the after
noon, which to our way of thinking
is odd, indeed, We make them serve
for dinner and the theater. The gar
lands make It too gay for the day
housS while the weave and the high
neck are eeo Informal for dances. +
Evening star., 1922-01-22

lovely. While such frocks will go on
their confident path. another type of
gown wedges its way into the front
line; 1t is well draped across the hips
and shows clever manipulation of
two skirts. giving one a prophetic
glimpse Of 1880 styles.
Worth is one Of the designers who
gives new impetus to the kind of
work we associate with Funchal,
nesting in the island of Madeira,
that rocky accident in the Atlantic
Evening star., 1922-01-22

Any reliable drug store can an this
for you. I have had nothing but good
reports about this tonic from every
one who has used it. It is, Of course,
not dye. 1t stimulates the color
cells and makes the hair produce its
own color.
Bright Eyes-As you have had an
operation and been i'll. it is quite
natural for your hair to fall out It
will come back again ~ you Erow
stronger. Meantime. have tho tonic
given shove made Mp and use IL three
times q Weeh
Evening star., 1922-01-22

ancestors served jewels III gold liquor
glasses after dinner to a hundred
guests were asked to cajole the wife
of a war millionaire who had just
dropped the knife for the fork into
buying a chemise frock. It's strange
world. And one sees emotional and
capricious glimpses of it in Paris.
+ + X X
TT was inevitable that the display
Of 20 much sentiment and kindli-
ness toward a pitifully broken social
class should result in some specific
self-movement toward organized ef-
fort. And It has come. Exiled Rus
Evening star., 1922-01-22
RUSSIAN BLOUSE, WHICH GRAND
DUCHESS MARIE WILL WEAR AT
CHARITY BAZAAR. ~"


SLAMS have put their fingers as def
nitely upon the new fashions for
France and America as Bakst and his
colorful dancers did the first season
the Imperial Russian ballet appeared
Ia Paris. At that time the French
dressmakers threw over all other in
duences and exploited Moscow and
Bagdad. as the costumery Of both
.cities was welded in the work Of the,
ballet Il was from these PERFORM
anees We got the vital oriental init
snos that has not entirely died down.
The Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna
gave the impetus to the Russian
blouse as kind Of straight, hiplfne
cuirass banded with brilliant, crude
embroidery. She was aided and
abetted In the fashion by the Princess
Olga Ouroussoff. Both Of these wom-
en- Of high estate have established
ouvroirs for Russian exiles IN Paris,
the work Of which is mostly expended
on oolorful blouses. The aristocrats
Of Paris. giving aid to their class, are.
talEias these garments to the Riviera
~ 0aso ~ shs early speing seasen.
Evening star., 1922-01-22

cross s-stitch ana lattice work in vivid
and elementary Slavic style.
The French are going the Russians
ono better in making other. vivid
blouses of dark red crepe de chine
covered with marrow rows of en-
broidery in yellow, red. blue, purple
and black. They reach to the hips
Evening star., 1922-01-22
tiles in Paris Give Fashion Ideas for Spring Wear

y will offer the type Of frock
which the American finds hard to
place There will not be much change
from the informal, neckline which
French women have considered suf-
flciently ceremonious since the war
low in the neck, possibly sleeveless,
always with an extension Of the fab
rio over the top Of the arms; If
sleeves are omitted there Is also a
complete omission Of that gaping
empty space beneath the arms which
even lovely youth could not mako
Evening star., 1922-01-22
Nursery Pictures in Clothes
BY ANNE RITrENHOUsE.

because it has been shelved to q
large extent by those who are
grown-up. They are tired OF it.
Children are enamored of it, for they
know it is the taste Of adults, and
Evening star., 1922-01-22
NAAAO KENT FORBES.

the human being is not. But both,
If deprived Of the accustomed amount
OF food. begin to consume this de-
posit Of fat You may rest assured
that II you eat half Of the amount
you are accustomed to, you will make
up from your own overweight body
the amount Of food it has been accus-
toned to receive.
Meantime, you yourself, as you re.
duce, will begin to look younger and
to feel younger. Flesh and youth. do
not go well together.
Mrs. p. H. S-The formula for the
nilocarnfna h r. tonic e.
Evening star., 1922-01-22

CHILDS SPRING FRoCK OF BLUE
SERGE, WITH APPLIED DESIGNS
OF FIGURED FoULARD IN BLUE
AND RED. JACKET HAS WHITE
COLLAR AND CUFFS
they. have never ceased to believe
themselves alluringly turned out
whenever they wear that which their
mothers should be wearing.
Z Surely they should be happy this
spring. The bars are down, Few
things in clothes are forbidden them.
Not since the days of the infantas
Of Spain have tiny tots been per-
mitted to go out in such glory and
give to their clothes such siro ee
capitalization. y.
Evening star., 1922-01-22

THIS GOWN FOR THE SOUTH, OF
GRAY CREPE EMBROIDERED L
+.
Evening star., 1922-01-22


EnrBB O
CHEN1hE HANGS
RDS A
Evening star., 1922-01-22

Mrs. p. H. S.-The formula for Il
pilocarpine hair tonic is:
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28

Material development is anticipa- ted througout Alaska during the coming year; general revival of min ing activities has been manifested in 1922. Development of the pulp and paper industry of Alaska is begin ming, as indicated by the reopening of the plant of the Alaska Pulp & Paper Go. Speel River after year of inactivity. This was the first plant of it's kind in Alaska and was closed after six months operation last year. The herring output of Alaska this season has an estimated value of S2,500,000. Contracts have been entered into by the Associated Oil Go. and Standard Oil Co. to de- velop their holdings in the Cold Bay District, which will ig"olve a prospecting expense of approximate troleum Co. has negotiated for like holdings in the same field. There is also increased interest in fox farm ing in the Territory
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
The Tendency of Every
 Man Is to Live up to His Name
By J. R. HAMILTON Former Advertising Manager of Wanamakers Philadelphia

Wherever you find good you will find some man quickly reputation follows character No lost his good name except through folly
 What the world thinks of the very best moral tonic that is sold under the label of philosophy.
 And the with merchandise it is with The thing dreaded everywhere, while the thing with good usually good because you expect it to be-
 Men grow proud of their products You will find manu saying h has got be good because bears my name" You will find saying C" cannot ye more than can tell lie" You will find clothing manufac turer saying "f all woo my clothing must also be all wool"
 And so goes every single product that brand to it. and whenever standard doubles the effort.
 Which simply means you the bes you must ask for the best And every time you ask you make it better
 There hardly you readers who does not know the name every good product the market From clothing to sugar and from hosiery baking powder good name is ndeby fixed in your mnd yet when you ask for an article most of the time you do not use that name
 And every time you fail to do discourage the maker you lower the standard for yourself and allow inferior thing to gain in strength and capacity.
 this go home your mind You set the standard of mer chande The maker follows your ideals Manifestations in through your axy Whenever you ask for old thing you get it.
 While you reading the advertising in this today make up your mind ask only for what know to be good demand and have barley with the nameless things of trade.
 (copyrlghted3
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
Suuaestlons of a pouohboY.

Being the suggestions of dough- boy on the manner of conducting the next war, together with certain refiec- tions on the conduct of the last one. That all song writers, would-be writ CTS. song leaders and vaudeville sing CTS be marked Class IA. That they be drafted in the first contingent and have at least six months intensive training at K. F., sanitary detail, etc. before being permitted to compose their country's songs.
 That any person who shall write. compose or sing, or attempt to write, compose or sing songs expressing doughboy sentiment without such pre- vious training shall be liable to death and shall be sent over the top at mid night with a lantern in each hand American Legion Weekly.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28

experience with practically every sort of tent from "pup' tents on up. After having rescued hundreds of people from housetops and treetops, the Le- gionnaires took upon themselves the job of erecting a tent city to house these refugees.
 A Legion doctor laid out the camp from the standpoint of sanitation, and M. L. Geisenberger, former lieuten- ant, was made commandant of the refugee camp.
 More than five hundred people were taken care of during the first few days, and as the flood area widened the number rapidly increased. The Legion's work in the care of flood vic tins received unstinted praise from every quarter of the country.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
NAME IS NOT IN DICTIONARY
"Leeionnaire" Not Yet in Official Gulde-Promises to Hold for
 All Time to Come.

The American Legion Weekly com ments on a New Zealand Newspapers use of the word '1egionary" to denote q member of the American Legion. 'The word legionary' has an honOred place in the dictionary which legion naire' has not as yet, the Weekly points out But all the sentiment, and 1t Is case where sentiment counts, Is on the side of 'legionnaire.' Legionary' connotes an embattled Ro- man, toting shield and spear for Julius Caesar. Legionnaire' calls to mind (from the French point of view) a regiment of foreigners of the French Foreign Legion.
 "Leglonnaire' as Indicating mem- Der of the American Legion, seems too
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
STATISTICAL NOTES

Berlin is the third largest city In Europe.
 Railroads consumed 5O,OOO,OOO tons of coal in 1917.
 California has more than 10000 acres planted in olives.
 A team of elephants will drag logs averaging as much as 2,50O board feet.
 The interest un Great Britain's war debt to the United States amounts to S25OOOO,OOO a year.
 The civilized nations of the world, 3,2OO,OOO matches every minute of the 24 hours.
 The largest organ in the world is to be installed in the cathedral now near ing completion in Liverpool. It will have no fewer than 10,567 pipes and 215 stops.
 Our total annual consumption of tin Is something like 93,00O tons. Un- fortunately, we are obliged to import nearly all of 1t for the United States has hardly any tin deposits worth mentioning.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
FEMININE FACTS, RANCHES


 The average walking pace of a healthy woman Is 75 steps a minute. Girls born on Monday, according to an old belief, are beautiful but jealous. Women first appeared on the stage in the latter half of the Seventeenth century.
 The hat worn by woman in 4,000 B. O. Is stated to be very similar to models worn today. American women have the best fig ures Tn the world. This is because they are the most active.
 Jumpers made of woven wool and laced mp the front were worn by women many centuries ago.
 The longevity of woman has in- creased In the last two decades and they now live longer than men.
 Women's ankles are growing larger, say observers. Golf, tennis and other sports are held responsible.
 Statistics show that the majority of divorces are sought by women be- tween the ages of twenty and twenty five.
 A dry goods expert says that the number of women who take 40-inch bust size or over is about a third of the whole female population.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28
CHINESE PECULIARlTIES

The Chinese are the only people on earth who eat no cheese.
 Chinese women prefer death in child birth to defeated motherhood.
 The highest ambition of Chinaman is to have a fine coffin and fine fu- neral.
 Chinese wear their finger nails very long and sometimes tip them with silver.
 The Chinese as a race are declared to be the most honest people in the world.
 Chinese children present their par ents with a coffin when they arrive at the age of fifty-five.
 The Chinaman is a passionate gam bier. He will gamble as long as he has any money or any garment with which to obtain it.
 The Chinaman on Christmas days pays all his debts and on New Years days makes presents to his mother and sees that all her wants are attended to.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1922-09-28

government sev- sral hundred army tents to house flood refugees, 1t was found that the government
 had failed to send anybody al on g who could direct the erection of the canvas shell ters. Fortunately members of the Natchez American Legion had had