The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-04-23
SFashion Designers of France Have Gone Here,
There and Everywhere in Search of In
Again Allowing Themselves
to Be Influenced by Colors
and Embroideries.
Copyright, 1902. By vt1ae. Ne,o York.

Copyright, 1922. By VI >ue, Ncto York.
NTHE Go-Stop signals of fashion
for the present in New York are
= as follows. but the present is
~ever changing. Tie more nervous the
age the more rapidly fashions change.
The designers of France have gone
there, there and everywhere for their
sinsniration. Franco has always fiirted
with embroideries and colors of tie
sfast, and again to-day she is allowing
sthem TO influence her. 1t would al
most seem as IF we told the Outline of
History in clothes. From Jenny we
shave tia long, straight mandarin coat;
Chanel supplies the Russian motives;
%Ianvin likes from Persia the richest
of her en,broideries and the splendor
xof her gold and silver. while paying
.tribute at the same time to the quaint
lest province in all France. by adopting
sthe short Breton coat with its Puritan
collar Of organdie, tied with long black
streamers.
This Breton costume is generally
made in natural colored Ixasha pointed
with touches of scarlet. The one piece
serge coat dress is replaced by the
HlIHfiDeu COSluHlt suit Will IIktlCllliS
coat or cape. The rivalry forN popu-
slarity between the coat and cape is
yet to be settled. but the odds seem to
favor capes. which are in wool or
screpe. according to the gown with
(which they are worn. generally shorter
than they were last year, and wildly
lined.
Important Note of Season.
Walking skirts eight inches from the
ground have the effect of being straight
and plaits or panels, placed mostly at
the sides, give them graceful freedom.
One OF the important notes of the season,
particularly in skirts. is plating, the
snarrowest plating imaginable. plaits
shat are fan shaped or plaits that form
uneven hemlines in the more elaborate
dress.
u Colors this season are wonderful and
dangerous. Let us hope they will be
snsed gayly. even boldly but not reck-
3cssly. For the street we shall see brown,
cocoa, wood color. beige and green
blue, eighty brighter than navy being
very popular combined with Tuscan red.
BLACK will not hold its own against the
brilliant tones that have surged into
fashion like victorious flags. 1t will
occasionally appear, but always relieved
by vivid embroideries and trimmings.
The day of the untrimmed black
crepe de chine dress Is past. All spring
costumes are remarkable for their en-
broldery, or because they are combined
with gay contrasting fabrics. A special
! mention should be made of the en-
phasis placed on metal embroidery.
|. whether in steel or copper. color. This
year dressmakers are showing more
! elaborate afternoon dresses, in crepe de
chine, georgette and lace. The reason
perhaps that Americans have not been
more interested in this type of clothes
is that they spend the hours between
! four and seven in very different sur
. roundings. Here there are no restau-
, rants in the Bois, no Armenville. back
, grounds that almost demand soft dresses
! and ailuring hats: ''and the perfect
. middle of an afternoon" the tea hour
in England one thinks of chiffons,
1 parasols and garden hats. At Auteuil
! and Ascot one has always realized the
subtle charm that feminine clothes exert.
Will we this season be influenced by
them? Imagination rules the world.
Variety In Evening Clothes.
Up 10 the dinner hour fashions are
! generous in offering an Infinite variety,
but after the sun has set and the clock
strikes seven a most conventional mood
seems to descend on the gowns and
little variety. Not exaggeratedly decol-
lete. they differ from those of few
years ago, when the bodice was mat
Ter OF few beads rather nervously
arranged. These to-day, inspired by
ancient Greece, have a classic simplicity
Of line. One description fits dozen
4 dresses. long, straight, draped tightly to
one side. mostly with long pointed
train. either sleeveless or with winged
effects which develop into double trains.
The bouffant Is decidedly on the wane,
: except as a robe de style" Even the
skirts that are full hang straight, due
10 the softness of the fabric. The ma
ter.als most seen are crepe de chine or
georgette. Lace, that exquisite creation
OF the Middle Ages, whose history is
threaded here and there against a ro-
mantle background of silks and satins
regains its fragile power. 1t is distinc-
tive in the new models because OF its
unusually beautiful coorings. Beads
and crystal embroidery are lavishly
\ used.