Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1922-04-09
gnal Should Be Hung in Front Of the New Spring Coors
..OO Many Women, Says Anne Rttenhoue Tempted
Which Offered at Every ConeTh Danger Blue. and Liberties
Taken by the Dsmk and Natural
Embroidery Fad Which Comes From
FromFr Show Novel Ideas for Summer

| evening gown which the Americans
like, of white crepe de chine en-
broidered in bright red beads. Red
tulle goes over one shoulder, slips
through an ornate ana enormous red
crystal buckle at the side. then trails
long length down on the door.
\ + + +
Jenny 10 not the only French de-
> signer whose gowns are flooding
America to use this ornate coIored
embroidery done in beads. Jean
Patou has sent to America q tur-
quoise blue Seorgette crepe embroid-
cred in blue and rose-colored beads.
Patou was delighted over the enthu-
siasm given him by the Americans.
He found 1t necessary to fill the halls
with little chairs to accommodate the
buyers, and this is the sign Of success
in Paris.
He, like many of the other French
designers. made skirts highly orna-
mental and put plain bodices above
them, bodices cut on loose, wide,
Grecian lines. This trick is siGnifi-
cant to us because we will see much
of it. 1t will be one of the features
Of the season-the ornate skirt, the
plain bodice, with an immense sirdle
dividing the two.
The French designers, notably
Beer. do not hesitate to spread en-
broidery over severe tailored suits.
They are determined to give their
handworkers plenty to do. Over
hero the wise ones realized that
ubiquitous embroidery raises the
price Of the frock. We will have to
learn to say to our dressmakers what
the American buyer says to the
French vendeuse: How much is it
without the embroidery"
Climate, more than inclination, gov
ems q woman's choice between the
frock and the suit. It il not wise to
preach coat suits for busy hours to
the south or much Of the west, be-
cause the heat Of their days gives
them no chance to wear tweed, home
spun and serge. They want thin
frocks from April until November.
Eortherners insist upon one good suit
son. It is the trump card. which they
play in emergency. It's their usage
of the suit that keeps it in fashion
through the six warm months, and
it is bursting into full seasonal glory
this month. The time has come to
take of topcoats. put fur coats in
camphor. look lovingly upon thin
capes and rejoice in q cloth coat and
skirt unhampered by a wrap.
THE type Of suit that America
chooses is not the three-quarter
coat Of France, nor is the elongated
Russian tunic. with immense width
above the hips and slim lines below.
On the contrary. it is a slim little
Tightening the armholes until it sug-
SHsts Victorian lines. that rules the
hour. 1t does not continue slim from
shoulder to hem; it flares out as it
passes. 1t is unbelted, it fastens with
link button. and has slightly high
waistline, Tapped at the wrist, fasten-
ed with three buttons. There are
belted models. but they are second in
fashion. This coat was extensively
worn in Europe last year, or rather
one form Of it, and we have grated
our model on something that has been
rather that what is. This is well, for
the American woman would not be
at her best in some of the new
French suits.
There is a Beer model which il
good. for 1t has the American line.
It drops snugly from the shoulder to
q low waistline and has a tight hip
peplum. The disadvantage is in the
sleeves. They suit the French but
not the American, for they are too
long, too wide. ana too pointed to
meet the activities Of an American
woman--and when she is in tai
lored suit she 10 out for activity ana
not for leisure. Unlike the French
woman, she does not dance in the
afternoon in Z coat and skirt.
Every woman faces the struggle Of
her skirt belt when she chooses q
coat suit. It is an individual prob
lem. Il she continues to wear tuck.
in blouses she must continue to keep
her skirts near the normal waist
line. II she wears the overb1ouse
she can drop her skirt nearly to the
hip line and save that much thick
ness about her waist. The shops
continue to put skirts on tight inside
belts, but the expensive tailors finish