The New York herald., 1922-10-15
Prominent Partisan Houses
Show Many Models Of Unique
Styles in Varin-s Skins.

II Copyright. 1922. by vo ae. New York.
ET HE vogue for handsome furs has
/ been phenomenal in the last
- few years. and shows no signs
of diminishing. Women who do not
have to consider their personal expen-
diture too carefully are the proud
possessors Of several fur coats for all
sorts of occasions instead of the soli-
| tary garment which their mothers
| thought quite sufficient.
Fur fashions change as rapidly as
any others. and as fur is now worked
exactly like cloth, the form of our
wraps has to be frequently renewed.
This year our fabric garments are
cut circular. with lgodets. or draped
in becoming folds, and our furs must
follow suit. The rounded cape-man-
teau shape. with its wide. short, set-in
sleeves and it's great shawl collar
seems less popular than it has been
for two or three seasons. and furs
have complicated their cut to match
the frocks that go underneath them.
Favored models are in that immensely
popular fur, mole; every house has
made new models in this flexible and
becoming skin, the price of which is
not too elevated, and whose only de-
feet is that it does not wear like the
proverbial iron. Velvet is the fabric
OF the new season, and velvet COM
bines delightfully."- with mole.
The collection of the house OF We'll
is large one, and the skins are han
dled in very modern manner. Two
|of their models, both of which are in
mole, illustrate two cardinal princi-
piles of the new mode, the circular
frill posed at the edge of a coat.
mounting in front, and the great godet
placed at the side front exactly as II
would be if the model were in cloth.
In one of these, the mole is worked in
horizontal bands. and the other in yer.
tical. This working Of mole In bands,
the pile of the fur running in opposite
directions in alternate stripes. is still
quite new. having been invented only
a few seasons ago. Formerly mole
was worked in patches of the natural
size of the little skin, giving an effect
like pressed velvet to the surface,
which was characteristic OF garments
made in mole.
Embroidery on Furs.
Embroidery done directly on the fur in
harrow lines, like a silk galloon. trims
one of these models. Lanvln was the
first to see the possibility Of embroid-
cred fur. Many of the models from
Well use this idea of the colored galloon
posed on the fur One of Persian lamb
has the line of its long waist marked by
a little green galloon; others are bor-
dered by rolls of the fur, mole, for ex.
ample, these rolls being outlined by q
line of galloon. sometimes matching,
sometimes in another color.
There are more coats than capes
though the coats are sometimes so en-
veloping as to resemble -manteaux
The collars are generally very large, o.
the turned-up and turned-down variety
or rolled. The convenient short fur coal
Is made here in many kinds of fur there
is charming one of mole, bordered
collared. and cuffed with the fur worked
in petal shaped pieces. while the cuffs
may be unfastened, making cape form
instead of a jacket. Most of the Innings
are of crepe niorccain. matching In
color and bordered with a galloon, oi
of duvetyne.
Another model from Well offers us
a novelty In the form of gazelle. dyed
and pointed to look like a new variety