New-York tribune., 1922-03-12

has had great influence on
modern fashions. There are
few French Gressmakers who have
always been influenced by peasant
styles, showing evidence of the study
that their creators have given to the
primitive arts Of all countries.
Much Of the strength and vivid
ness in the models by Paul Poiret
comes from the inspiration which he
derives through the study of primi-
tive art. Patou is one who turns to
peasant costumes for a great deal of
his inspiration, while Lanvin's works
show that she has had recourse to
the embroidcries and tapestries seen
only in museums.
Not infrequently It is some histori-
cal or social event which influences
the clothes Of the corresponding
epoch. For instance, an event such
as the Russian Ball in Paris in the
late winter will dominate the mode
for long time to come. The fruits
Of such an occasion, however, are
seen more often in color, in head
dresses and in millinery than in any
other essentials Of dress.
At the recent Russian Ball, which
was one Of the most splendid func-
tions given in Paris for many day,
much lacquered lace was worn. The
Grand Duchess Pavlovna wore q
frock of lacquered silver lace over a
brilliant red slip-one Of Chanel's
most beautiful creations. The head
dress which accompanied it consisted
OF roll OF silver cloth draped close
ly about the head and worn yerv
low on the forehead. There was a
diamond cluster at the front where
the headdress was highest.
Many silver lace overdresses were
worn over bright-colored slips, ac
companied, in many instances, by
headdresses Of silver cloth. In fact.
gllttering silver cloth was the me-
dunn more often used than any other
for the headdresses that we're not
composed Of precious stones. This
was cut in the form of leaves to
make head bands that arched high
IN the front. Some of these were
embroidered in diamonds.
Refugees Introduce
Native Ernbroideries
WHEN Napoleon was in Egypt
women in Paris wore turbans;
when he made his excavations at
Pompeii they dressed in Greek robes.
To-day France is much agitated over
the sufferlngs of Russia-indeed, in
Paris, the heart of France, there is
big Russian colony of mobiles and
aristocrats Of the highest rank, now
refugees from the court OF Russia.
The present influence Of Russian
styles In all types of dress is due to
these Russian refugees. Princesses
and grand duchesses, driven from
their OWL country, their lands con-
flscated, their money and Jewels
gone, have turned to the occupation
Which deals with the subject nearest
woman's heart and the one which
she naturally knows most about
the designing, making and selling of
/ clothes.
y 1t Is but natural that these rova1
0ressmakers should have the hand
work on their garments done by the
starving people from their own
country. Thus we have Russian de-
s7gns and Russian needlework in the
A-9st fashionable clothes of TODAY.
- d the Russian influence becomes
"'ofe and more pronounced, espe-
SLY in embroideries, blouses. all
pts of short coats and bright-col-
led cassocks.
Several of the most brilliant social
arlty events of the winter have
9osn Tor the benefit Of Russian suf-
~e'ers- They have been engineered
e leading Partisan society women in
junction with the Russian grand
chesses and princesses now resid-
In Paris. The funds have been
ed for the relief of those refined
d gentle FOLK who, except for the
ploynent or aid given them
rough the efforts of their friends
ould be entirely destitute.
At these charity bazaars there
ave been put on sale art works of
kinds done by Russians-needle-
'79rk, painting and sculptures. The
ork Of the seamstress has included
e any models in blouses of character