The New York herald., 1922-12-31
OF A SMART COIFFURE
rosettes OF ribbon in gold and silver
metal tissue.

rosettes OF ribbon in gold and silver
metal tissue.
Foulard Is revived. IL Is combined
with serge. 1t is rarely left to itself.
The dressmakers assemble blouse Of
foulard and little cape and skirt of
serge; the cape has a collar of foular1.
II is really nothing more than a shawl.
Jackets are short, some of them reach
ing only to the upper part Of hips. Cut
ss short as this they show wide ex-
panse of oyerblouse made OF foulard, Of
printed crepe. of plain crepe beaded.
embroidered or ribboned.
Black taffeta is sparingly used, but
the fact that 1t is used at all 10 sng-
nificant. One new frock ha5 4 full cir
cuiar skirt edged with white braid and
q short jacket which ends in a circular
peplum that ripples around the body
and shortens toe waistline. Its edge is
finished with braid, and there is a white
chiffon bib instead of a collar, in three
layers, fastened with a black bow in
front. Surely this idea has novelty. The
waistline grows shorter in many models.
When dressmakers are fearful to launch
1t without excuse or apology they em-
broider a girdle in a curious pattern and
bring 1t as far above the waistline as
below it. This trick is taken as evidence
that the hip girdle may soon be a fin
ished fashion.
Sleeves ara long and tight, and often
have circular flounces between elbow
and wrist, but the newest idea Is to put
a wide patch Of beaded or embroidered
fabric over the elbow, tying 1t to the
arm with ribbon or beaded band. The
ribbon is finished with a small bow
above the point of elbow. 1T looks as
though q woman were trying to hide a
hole in her sleeve. but 1t Is fantistic
trick of Importance.
The peasant sleeve Is not finished
Blouses and frocks continue the low
cred armhole with full sleeve gath
cred into it and to tight wristband
AT top of the sleeve is embroidery done
In bands of red, black, blue and yell
low not in bright tones, but faded ones,
such as Persians use in old carpets. In
truth carpet patterns are used by en-
broiderers to ornament frocks and hats.
The embroidery pattern of the Rus
slams, which is like a water wave with
cross stitch between, Is a simple and
effective embroidery for peasant sleeves.
II is easily done at home. but remember
that bright colors are superseded by
faint ones.
There is a new sleeve In jackets.
1t is broad and fiat at the armhole and
gathered to tight band below the elbow
from which the fullness falls in godets
The embroidery Is placed on this full
ness and held UP by a stiff gauntlet
glove, which women have accepted after
much propaganda by the glove trade.
Cashmere shawls, which are signifi-
cant examples of Oriental patterning.
are exhibiting signs of new and virile
strength. They are fashioned into long
coats, the pattern outlined by steel
beads in various sectors. A new model
has q hip length fiaring jacket with the
black part Of the shawl used as. a yoke
for the neck and as a brassard for the
top of the sleeves. The black is effective
against the brick red tones of the palm
leaves.
Foulards, printed crepes and varied
Persian and Arabian designs are in the
forefront of fashion, They are a part
of the dissolution of old fashions and the
formation of new ones. We are no longer
to be demure. Black is to be only a
background or accessory. Glitter and
gorgeousness, extravaganza. decoration
and jewelry are the keynote of to-day
A demurely dressed woman looks COM
monplace. Curiously enough, she usual
ly belongs to the powerful set. 1t is the
average woman of limited income who is
eager to rush into color and decoration.
1t is to be a ribbon year. One i'm
portant clothes designer made his new