davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
HAT BANDS

Hat bands of figured soft silk are
worn by young girls. knottei about
the crown Of soft felt or straw
hat, with tie ends left hanging ever
the edge of the brim.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

The tie slipped under the COLLAR
of the blouse and left with long
ends hanging is a smart feature
The collar is turned back, and
opens in deep V, filled in very
often with a little vest. The ends
of the ribbon, which is often cire,
picot edged. are sometimes ended
with little balls.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
With Gooseberries.

For gOoseberry conserve top and
tail the goOseberries, and for each
quart allow a cup Of sugar and the
juice and a bit OF the grated rind
OF an orange. Put in 4 covered
casserole and cook slowly in the
oven until thick.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
Do You Knit
All the Time?


called used to Jog slowly along the
roads knitting mittcns and stock
i"rs as he went. We gather that
he sold these 10 augment his in
come. And In those days, when an
.unrulv automobile never shot ont
from a crossroads. and when ones
own two hands and both feet were
not kept busy managing the engine
of ones conveyance. probably this
was very satisfactory thing FOR the
old post rider 20 do. lie could knit
with his two hands. having looped
his reins around his whip. and with
one eye on the road, one on the
progress ~ his stocking or mitten.
he could well manage two Jobs at
once.
Mhen the war was en- many
women learned to knit and do some
thing else al the same time. Ths
story 81 the Puritan maidens who
usrd to reach out their hands auto
matcally on wakcful nights and knit
"a few rounds on their stockings N
The datk did no: seem SO distant
anil unbelievable ln the war. Many
80 VS. learned g. knit without look
ing on.
Md after the war was over and
a." fashion FOR carr, ing our knitting
to 'e.f4rcs and the play died down
we'll. many ~ as would bc loath
90 say how much a bore Il seemed
60 so still FOR several hours being
entertained without having our fin
gers busy with knitting
u Is fact that az some sani-
forums knitting is a recognized part
81 the restful healing for over
wrought nerves
Il is likewise fact that knitting
as some women do Il s. decidedly
provocative Of nerves.
II is a very bad habit TO get into.
this ~ not being able 10 relax with
idle fingers We rest most COM
pletelv when We are doing as nearly
nothing as possible. Sleep. which
suspends even the action Of the
brain. gives US the hest rest. But
We should train ourselves to sit
quietly. doing nothing. and rest oc-
casionally. In the summer-and in
the winter. for that matter-if this
rest is taken out of doors. so much
the better Il will do US all the
more good.
And % course sitting quietly out
doors Knitting is better so far as
restful effects are concerned. than
running up and down stairs. And II
We don't knit hurriedly. as IL we
must do so many stitches every
minute. the knitting part Of the pro-
gramme may 9e quite all right
j. rs the hurried. pushing sort OF
knitting that is bad thing, and
that sort Of knitting most certainly
grew out Of our war habits. II was
all right then The things we knit
ted were needed. and the nervous
hurry OF trying 10 finish "A pair OF
socks al given time was little
enough discomfort for US 10 suffer.
Bat the war is over And the knit
ting We 80 now though II may be
useful IS not essential 70 anybody's
comfort We ought 10 drop our old
habit ~ hurry and rush.
one woman who had "A war record
~ perfect socks that was indeed en-
E1he cannot now Sit down 20 read
without knitting in her hand. II she
has TWO minutes OF leisure she uses
70 IN knitting. She is practically
never without clicking needles and
hall ~ wool
The product OF her work is beauti-
ful hut isn't she firing herself un-
necessarily. using up nervous force
a. totally uncalled for rate, by
this everlasting handiwork?
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

The blouse showing Russian en-
broidery and cut along the lines
of Russian peasant blouse is no
longer found only among Very ex-
pensive things. This type of gar
ment is to be found in cotton wolfe
with inexpensive embroidery. To
be effective these inexpensive re-
pleas of the handmade importa-
tons should not be worn with a
tailored suit with the peplum hang
ing over a dark skirt, but should
be combined with suitable Access
series as part of a country cos
tune.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

A few years ago the blouse with
the hem turned back to form
pockets at the bottom was nov
city. 1t is not a novelty now, but
it is still fashionable detail, well
worth considering.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Another thing TO beware Of is
the blouse that is run on a gather
ing string around the top. Some
of the peasant blouses are pulled
up by means of cords run through
a scalloped top. The effect is de-
ightful-until all the gather pull
into one spot. Then it is anything
but attractive. The whole thing is
in wearing this blouse in the right
way.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Silk printed in Chinese charac-
ters are used in some of the
blouses. These, of course, because
of the broken surface produced by
the design, must be made in simple
/ fashion.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Narrow pipings or bindings Of
rose, blue, green or yellow are
used on some of the white batiste
blouses.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Chiffon blouses are so in evil
dence and recently this material
was combined with metallic cloth
in some elaborate blouses. They
were made in Il light jade, orchid
and other delicate colors. Metal
cloth was used as a foundation
while the chiffon was draped over
il.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

A latice-work made of hand
drawn and hand-worked threads is
one of the trimmings in many
blouscs of fine linen and silk.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

DARIS has set fad for much
jewelry.
This does not mean that to
be In the fashion we need go laden
down with jewelry looking like
Queen Elizabeth on gala days. nor
that we need. after the manner OF
some small-town women of n gem
GRAFTON ago wear our diamonds
when we go marketing nor even
that we need wear many bits OF
jewelry at one and the same time.
1t only means that we must have
all sorts OF oddments of jcwelry to
go with our different frocks and
that we must know enough about
them to wear them at the right
time.
You Must Have Lots
One thing of importance about
the jewelry of today. You mus
have a lot of It. but IL need not b,
made solely of platinum and dia'
monds, pearls and rubies. a bit o
colored stone and n little enameleC
metal may make up n buckle or {
necklace quite as effective as on
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
Ornamental Necessities

There are wrist watches by the
dozen in odd and unusual forms
And there are ankle watches. quite
fascinating. mounted on ribbon or
metal anklets.
A novelty Is tho little lingering
watch, one Of the newest novelties
I'm the Rue de In Paix. "A street from
which cmanate so many noveltics
that take the world by the ears
This won't do that. for the finger
watch is naturally only for the few
1t Is quite ono Of the clevcrest litti
details of fashion imaginable.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
Things To Can
Make Plans Now For Next Winters
Supply.

TT you would have tender peas
for winter use. bottle them your
- self according to this rule:
Gather them on Il dry day and shell
them carefully. Plunge them quickly
In boiling water. in which 81 spray
81 mint is sleeping. Dry them and
put them in bottles. Then pour salt
water oyer them. cover the bottles.
and stand them in pan ~ cool
wator. Put straw under and be-
tween the bottles 10 keep them from
touching. or else separate them with
cloths. Bring tho water I'm which
the bottles stand 10 the boiling
point and boil for an hour and a
half Let them cool. then cork them
tightly. dry the bottles, and store.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
Plum Jam

Damson and green gage Jam "a
made with equal parts Of dansons
and green cages. and with ar allow
ance ~ n pound OF sugar to pound
OF fruit. tone the fruit and add the
sugar and Just enough water 70 dis
solve IL Cook until thick and pack
in jars.
An English method OF preserving
plums is this: Sterilize some mar
row-mOuthed bottles and pack them
three-quarters full with fine. clean
plums. Put them in pan Of water
and bring them 70 the boiling point.
Then pour boiling water into the
jars until It comes two or three
inches above the fruit. Pour in olive
oil to the depth OF half an inch.
Cover and put the Jars where they
Will be undisturbed until needed.
Carefully remove the oil and use the
fruit like fresh fruit.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

The slit down the front for an
opening is still found in a great
many blouses. Be careful of it.
That is to say, remember that it
must look negligent and yet must
be treated with great fastidious-
ness. A frayed camisole or faded
bit of ribbon showing through this
slash is excessively unattractive.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

An ankle watch, finger ring watch,
set in platinum and diamonds, and
a cameo brooch fastened on the
wrist with a narrow black velvet
ribbon as a bracelet.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

A season which started out
pledged to long sleeves has turned
out in some quarters the occasion
for revived interest in short
sleeves. The short-sleeved blouse,
while not numerous, has been in
great demand. 1t is desired by the
woman who wishes to be cool. 1t
is desired by the woman with very
long arms on whom regulation
Ilong-sleeved blouses are usually in
adequate. 1t is desired by class
which is large enough in this coun-
try-women who must take hand
in meal getting and meal unget-
ting in their own homes. The long
sleeved blouse must either be
changed for a short-sleeved frock
for indoors or else the long sleeves
must be tucked up when the
wearer is called upon for such
tasks.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Tassels are I'm great vogue In the
new jewclry. Even shoe buckles
and bracelets show them, and they
are often used as the pendant for
necklaces. Tassels of Jet and
pearls. tassels Of metallic threpds
and tnssels of all sorts OF beads.hre
used. They form earrings, too.
sometimes ana one especially dis
tiuctive arrangements Is to wear one
long earring in tho form OF a bead
tasscl sweeping the shoulder. the
other ear Ruiltlcss of any earring
whatever. Frequently, too. the ear
rings match the hair ornament, Dc
/ II handeau or comb.
There is another fad, that Of por
! traying I'm bits OF Jewelry tiny nul.
mails, or figures of people. Their,
are pendants showing cats and dog
and lephants--elephan by tn,
way, being quite i'm the vogue
Sometimes these are cut cameo-Iilt
I'm some colored stone Sometime
they are made of enamel.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
With Pears

Ripe. sweet. juicy pears are a treat
just as they come from the tree
wherein they grew. But much 81
the pear flavor can be captured II
unripe. and even hard pears are good
IL carefully cooked. And unfortu-
nately the Unripe pear IL a more
usual sight IN the city market than
the pear that - just ready n cat.
The over-ripe pear IS just az
familiar q the Underline one N''t
tho over-ripe one IL TT for MOI -.
Even cooking will not redeem that.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14
Time and Place
= to Mend

THERE is q woman who has
large, old-fashioned market
basket dedicated 10 the nnrnose
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

At the left, on the
figure a diamond and
s a p p h ire necklace
linked with platinum
which can be taken
apart and used both
as n bandeau on the
front Of the hair, and
a bracelet.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1922-07-14

Lip-stick red is said to be ona
of the colors used in the embroi-
derry of the new blouses.
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
Miss Lucy Gates
Sings Songs of
Many Composers
Heard Here in Recital After
Long Absence Showing Lit
tie Artistic Progress.
BY w. J. HENDERSON.

Miss Lucy Gates. soprano. gave a
song recital last evening in Aeolian
Hall. Her program was one planned 10
exhibit all the powers Of a singer with
a light voice. extended scale, facility in
florid passages. and exquisite finish in
lyrics demanding dellcacy OF style and
deep tenderness Of feeling. 1t began
with Handers Come. my beloved" an
old folk song of Devon harmonized by
Deems Taylor. and Browns shepherd,
thy demeanor vary" This one group
called for resourceful art; but it was
followed by another still more exacting.
a group of five Schumann numbers in
eluding "Mondnacht" and "Auftraege."
After embarking with calm confidence
and sailing with unruffled deneanor
over these fathomless seas Miss Gates
drlfted into the elusive atmosphere OF
exceedingly precious Benoerg. She
reached port in the company OF Richard
Hageman, Walter Kramer and Kurt
SCHNEIDER. and finally moored her frail
vocal craft 10 that venerable buoy
George Henschel.
Miss Gates has not been heard in
recital recently. She earned her largest
favor here when she sang some years
ago in the modern version of Mozart's
'Impresario She possesses q voice Of
unusually good natural quality. a high,
clear. silver soprano. flexible and agile.
and seemingly easy TO utilize in Just
such a program as that above outlined.
But Miss Gates art has not made the
progress which it promised She sang
last evening with bad attack. with un-
certainties of intonatlon, with tone too
often hard and almost always cold and
without the variety needed for such
numbers as those Of Schumann. She
showed intelligence. but the vocal in
strument was not equal TO its task.
Walter Goide played the accompani-
ments.
The New York herald., 1922-10-14

WOMAN SLATED FOR
TARIFF BOARD POST
Likely TO Get Membership in
the Proposed Reorgani-
zatiOn.
APPOINTMENTS DUE SOON
Enlarged Powers of Body In
tensify Contest for
Positions.
APPOINTMENTS DUE SOON
Special Dispatch to THE NEW York HERALD.

Special Dispatch to THE NEW York HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau
Washington, -. g.. Oct. i3
A spirited contest has developed for
places on the United States Tariff Com
mission under plans for its reorganlza-
ton. The Importance OF the controversy
is advanced by the attitude of President
Harding as disclosed in his executive
order made public yesterday vesting the
commission with sweeping powers of in
vastigation and recommendation as to
changes in the rates Of the new Ford
-McCumber tariff act, as exclusively
mosping.
The Fordney-McCumber act enlarged
the powers of the commission to make
i real factor in adjusting duties The
Z President has the final say in increasing
or decreasing rates but the Tariff Corr
mission is the buffer between the public
which demands lower rates and the in
terests which seek greater protection.
Three new members will be named
within six or eight weeks. BY the
time Congress reconvenes the President
viii be ready to organize the commits
sion for its new and more important
labors.
The President. it is believed, viii
name a woman TO the commission, as
women are keenly Interested in tariff
duties
Mr.. Harding plans to make the COM
mission responsive 10 the wishes OF the
great mass OF the people which believes
in protective duties rather than to the
wishes OF those who may profit by a
tariff wall
Many demands for rate changes have
reached the Treasury Department Or
fanizations established here TO repre-
sent special interests are notifying their
clients that the commission must be
convinced Of the need for adjustments
before the President can be appealed to.
Tho powers of the commission to COM
mand the production of books. records
and documents and employ agents
abroad and at home are largely in
creased. This Will enable II to get at
fundamental facts.
Senator Curtis GHan). one of those
most active in framing the new tariff
law. said to-day:
"The Tariff Commission under the
new act will become one of the most
important bodies of the Government
It's duties will keep the members busy
all the time.
= "Enlarging the power Of the Tariff
Commission Is the first step to enable
Congress. through the Ways and Means
Committee. to get fair and accurate
information as to the actual cost OF pro-
duction of articles In this and foreign
countries and other data to frame n
bill without having to depend on those
ntcrested-lmporterS and manufacture
ers."
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
GATTI-cASAZZA BACK
FROM EUROPEAN TOUR
Opero Manager to Tell of Sea-
sons Plans Later.

Glulio Gatti-Casazza. general man
ager Of the Metropolitan Opera House.
who has been three months abroad Sc
lecting talent. returned yesterday on
the France in mourning for his mother.
who died in Milan shortly after he had
taken passage aboard the France. Nine.
Aida, his wife. greeted him at the pier.
He will tell OF his plans later.
Little Miss Elizabeth Askwith. native
American and cabin passenger by the
France, did not disembark with the
other voyagers because she was un-
accompanied by parent or guardian"
as the law says little folks under sixteen
must be 10 land here. But her uncle.
Capt. W. a. Edgar ". S. NJ. retired.
was with her, taking her to her home
at Winthrop, Mass. He explained that
she had been mostly In France study
ing the language. A special board OF
inquiry convened aboard the liner, cut
the red tape and Miss Elizabeth was
admitted.
Rudolf CAM, conductor OF the St.
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
Notes of the Stage

Lady Helen Montague, one OF the first
women OF rank In England 10 take up the
stage. last night Joined the cast Of Bios
som Time" the operetta now at Jolson
Theater.
Mlndlin and Goldreyer have ordered a car
load OF specially designed, innocuous revolvers
to be distributed during the opening per-
formance OF THE Last Warming" at the
Klaw Theater on Monday, October 20, so that
the audience will feel some measure OF pro-
lection in case the mystery gets too hair
raising.
Percivai Knight. author of Thin Icc." at
the Comedy Theater. having labored through
life SO long with his first name has
written alphabetically to the Clarence Anti
Defamation League that he will Immediately
write a play extolling the virtues OF a Clar-
ence. regardless OF the fact that Booth Tar
kngton anticipated the league.
NJ. Anatole Bourman. master OF the bal
let of the "Revue Russo at the Booth The
ater, win open a dancing school here within
the next two weeks. where classical or bal
let dancing win be taught.
r. II. Burnside, general director OF the
Hippodrome. posted a notice on the bulletin
board yesterday urging all the ballet dancers
OF Better Times 20 go to the Metropolitan
Museum OF Art at every opportunity TO study
the masterpieces Of sculpture and try to look
as near like a Rodin possible.
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
WOMAN WRITER FOR SCREEN
AND STEEL MAN WE'D TO-DAY
Mrs. Frances White Elijah, Who Won Read $4,000
Prize, Will Be Bride of Ambrose N. Dehl
Of Duquesne Works.

Mrs. Frances White elijah. a writer
of fiction and scenarios. who was the
first woman TO win the 5000 ]. Parker
Read prize for the best screen play
OF the year. will be married this morn
ing to Mr. Ambrose y. Dehl, president
OF the Pittsburgh University Club and
head of the Duquesne Works OF the
Carnegie Steel Company.
The ceremony will take place in the
brides apartment at 800 Park avenue
and at noon Mr.. Diehl and his bride
VIII sail on the steamship Pan Ameri-
can for Rio de Janeiro. where Mr.. Diehl
VIII represent Pennsylvania at the Gen.
tennial Exposition in the Brazilian capi-
tai.
Mrs. Elijah is the daughter OF Mr..
and Mrs. Henry Warner White. She
is member of the Authors League
OF America and during the war was
commander of the general division of
the Red Cross Motor Corps. In Chicago
she was member Of the F'orr Minute
men. where she sold thousands Of dol
lars worth OF Liberty bonds.
Mr. Diehl is one Of the best known
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
800 TINES FOR 'cHAUvE.soURIs'
Record Achieved by Russian Pros
ductfon.

Bailieff's "Chauve-Souris' or Bat
Theater In New York viii reach to-
night at tine Century Roof Theater It's
30oth performance. which has never
been achieved in this city by any pro-
duction In a foreign tongue.
NO other city can boast such an
artistic achlevc aent,"' said Morris Gese
yesterday. Three hundred performances
in foreign tongue at opera prices show
how hospitable New York may be 10
oil that is really artistic. The actors
df the Bat Theater cannot remain here
after May !, but II looks as If the third
program. which was shown the other
night, will continue at the Century Roof
until that date"
The New York herald., 1922-10-14
Sidney c. Howard,
Playwright and
Critic, Quits Life
Literary Reviewer and Hus-
band of Clare Eames Leaves
Humorous Weekly.

Sidney Coe Howard. dramatist and
critic. has parted company with Life as
It's book reviewer under somewhat dra-
matte circumstances Louis Evan Ship
man, editor OF the publication and him
self dramatist. having written Fools
Errant," which closes tonight at Maxine
Elliotts Theater, declined TO discuss the
matter. But young Mr.. Howard, whose
wife is Clare Eames, well known actress.
acknowledged yesterday that he was no
longer connected with the magazine.
Bob Benchley nominated me for
membership in the Resigners' Club" he
said. with a smile, referring to the fact
that the dramatic critic of Life had once
resigned from another publication. But
aside from saying this, l prefer not TO
discuss the affair"
IL was learned. however, that Howard
had recently been told that there was
TO be change in the book department
OF the publication. He had been en-
gagged to do literary reviews twne a
month for Life, but there had been some
differences of opinion as TO the style In
which he was 10 do them, according to
report. Eventually he was told that the
reviews were 10 be done by three per-
sons, anonymously, and that he was to
be one of the trio, losing the signature
he had appended TO his reviews.
Last week when he appeared at the
office Of the weekly, 59S Madison avenue,
to get the proofs for the forthcoming
issue with his reviews, he found that one
OF them, dealing with Haywood Broun's
latest book, THE Boy Grew Older" had
been omitted. Sharp words followed
with Shipman. Howard, who had Just
Grawn his pay check. promptly tore up
the draft and the proofs and walked out
Of the office.
Mr.. Howard is the son of Mr.. and Mrs.
j. H. Howard of San Francisco. After
graduating from the University of Cali
fornia he entered the aviation service of
the United States during the war. serv-
ing at the front. Following this he en-
gagged in writing and became well known
in literary circles in New York.
His first play, Swords" dealing with
medieval Italy, was presented last sea-
son by Brock Pemberton. with Miss
Eames In the leading feminine role.
They were married early this year.
She is niece Of Nine. Emma Eames
famous diva, and distinguished herself
by her acting as the Princess Elisabeth
in The Prince and the Pauper," in the
title role of John Drinkwater's Mary
Stuart" and in "The First Fifty Years"