The New York herald., 1922-01-15
Hip Length Jacket, Straight.
Belted and Slightly Bloused,
Has Triumphed.

in favor of the frock and top
coat, has lately won it's way
back to popularity and now rivals the
coat dress. When the winter mode
was first presented the quarters
length coat was high in favor. but to-
day the hip length jacket, straight,
belted low and slightly bloused, has
triamphed. Next in interest comes
The straight sack coat, beltless, shorter
and more youthful than the one just
mentioned. There is also the tailored
suit made so popular by O'Rossen and
which will probably be featured this
spring in tan instead of the gray which
became almost a uniform in Paris last
year.
I.anvin's short, belted fur jackets
and mandarin coats have had immense
success, but those that are three-quar-
ters length, cut on Chinese lines, fur
trimmed and worn over chiffon topped
frocks, have closely rivaled them. Her
newest Southern models keep the
straight, short coat, belted low with a
| girdle which Is most often made Of
braided strands. One of Lanvins s
smartest tailored suits revives the lit
tie white frills set around the revers
and at the ends of the sleeves. a fash
ion which has not been seen for some
| time.
Capes are persistent, and one cannot
| overlook the charm of the cape COM
/ pleted dress, which is a most successful
means of emphasizing vivid color con-
| trasts. For instance, dark gowns may
be belted with red and have their capes
lined with this bright color, or a softer
note may be carried out in beige and
brown. Most capeS reach halfway be-
tween the waist and knee, but some only
touch the hip and are attached to the
shoulders at the back.
Draped Gown to Survive.
The autumn mode featured a draped
gown. either plain or fur trimmed, hav-
ing the drapery brought to one hip to-
ward the front, where it was caught
with an ornament. This model competed
for favor with the straighter cloth or
velvet dress, but it is the draped gown
which seems destined TO survive in the
| spring fashions. 1t will certainly have
an important place. though straight
lines, so beloved of all women, may pos
sibly succeed in banishing it later in the
season. The low waistline has had an
extraordinary run. appearing on every
! type of gown for all times OF the day.
Dressmakers in general are so devoted
| to IL that il will certainly be continued,
| but there is reason to believe that many
1 n -.
waistline will be at it's normal place.
However. this question. like that OF the
| length of skirts, is to n great extent an
individual matter which should be de-
cided first by the proportions of the fig
ure and then by the type OF gown. 1t is
not to be denied that skirts are longer,
! though. in general, this lengthening has
not been exaggerated. Women have
been quick TO recognize that there Is no
fashionable length, that one cannot
give n definite measure OF so many
inches from the ground which will be
invariable for all figures. Dressmakers
agree that the revival of the really long
skirt for street wear would be mistake.
For the tailleur. for the street frock, for
the walking coat, skirts are about nine
inches from the ground, and for after.
noon or house dresses about five inches.
Evening gowns. on the contrary, have
all become long, except for the very
young woman who loves dancing:
Colors for street costumes will con-
tinue subdued. Black stlll holds first
place, though brown is very close sec
ond. while as the season advances we
will undoubtedly see the beige and gray
shades predominant. Jenny's midseason
connection. on the contrary, was full OF
color, with brilliant blouses of printed
foulard. cretonne and similar fabrics.
Wherever navy blue or black suits were
shown they were trimmed with bright
foulards or were enlivened by vivid
touches. RebouX emphasizes hats in
beige and Chinese red, which have a
Rayety and vitality most appropriate for
the first days of spring.
Chinese Types of sleeves.
The favor shown the Chinese man.
DARN and medieval types OF sleeve, both
OF which are wide and voluminous in
tho present day frock, has influenced
their adoption, in an even more exag-
gerated fashion. in the smart wrap and
topcoat. A smart model with the APP
propriate sleeve Is the one illustrated
CNo. 649f) Of marvella cloth lined with
silk duvetine in a contrasting color.
Rust and henna would be n charming
combination. The unusually wide arm
hole provides FOR .hc covering ~ the