The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1922-02-05

to cling. They have no intention OF
permitting us to wear width and stiff
ness, too. Width, yes, but suppleness
with it, so that woman cannot cry
out that fashion is trying to make her
look less young. With all the beautify-
ing machinery of modern art turned
toward making woman appear as though
she had found and imbibed of Ponce de
Icons fountain of youth it would be
cruel, possibly useless. for the dress
makers to attempt to create the appear
ance of age.
They had compact with the weavers
of fabrics. The machinery of the looms
was kept at the trick of turning out,
supple materials. knowing that the
dreSsmakers intended to use much more
of 1t In one frock than they had done
for several years by means of godets,
side pieces inserted from the belts after
the fashion begun last August by Jean
Patou. that clever young designer who
Is as much of figure at the Deauville
baccarat tables as in the gray salons
where he shows his highly colored and
unique clothes for smart women. When
he exploited these new skirts with the
wide and f1aring pieces that gave circu-
lar sides to an otherwise narrow gar
ment the public looked at them as too
acceptance. He exhibited them one hot
and sultry evening at buffet supper,
and may be the supper was too palata-
BILE, or the night too warm, or the style
too much OF a reversal of what was ac-
cepted. Whatever the reason, the idea
did not gain in power. Now II comes,
fleet footed, across the ocean, often
bearing another name as its sponsor
If we wear these circular skirts, II
we wear the full peasant skirts of the
Russians, IL We forsake the straight and
narrow path In skirts. then. at least, the
mills have seen to it that women will
not look like barrels. Grace and slen-
derness will be maintained. Youth may
be simulated even when one has 1t
not. Crepes and silk tricots, foulards
and kashas may swirl into astounding
width considering the recent attenuated
condition of our clothing. but they have
trick of sinking into nothingness, Of
collapsing to soap bubble proportions.
1t is thus that the fashion builders make
their peace with the public.
Insistence Upon Silk Tricot.
They know they are headed for an
other revival OF artificial gowns with
much material, of flowers and highly
patterned silks and velvets. of all the
fashions that war and dancing have
abolished, temporarily, but they won't
tell us the secret Of their hopes. They
merely hand us the wide skirts and the
bodices with much material and tell us
to be happy. And so far we are.
Whether we work from caution or
representation in accepting French de-
crees in clothes is not a subject to dis
cuss here. The fact is that we gener-
ally take from six to twelve months to
accept something that Paris sponsors
We are getting into ankle length skirts
now. We are looking with more than
tolerance upon the Jumper blouse, which
hugs the hips and does not fare. We
are talking much of side drapery for
general acceptance instead OF straight
lines. All these fashions were estab-
lished some time ago among the fashion
able set Of dressmakers and the spe-
cialty shops. while the large shops are
quite elastic. which Is right. seeing that
they must serve a far wider public. go
they did not make q strong bid for any
direct change.
It appears at the present moment
that the fabric known as silk tricot
OF which there are many weaves under
various names. will have large number
Of admirers. The dressmakers are maxi
ing no ingenious frocks In 1t to catch
the eye, and. counting on the extremes
of heat and moisture we have to face
in this healthy and varying climate
there Is the earmark of success on such
apparel
Extraordinary clothes are featured in
this material. No one keeps to the
gray and beige tones. There is bright