The Washington times., 1922-09-24

Brown is the leader In this de-
lightful universe of shades and
tints for autumn styles-brown Of
the hillsides. tree trunks, rail
fences, and weather.beaten barns.
But despite the edicts of Paris
and the fashion journals, the well.
loved and ever-present black is
still enjoying her inimitable pOpu-
larity. In the cities of the East,
of the Middle West, and in the
fashion CENTER of the country.
black is so conspicuous that one
turns again to the pages OF the
latest fashion sheet and tries to
reconcile the actual facts with the
recorded edicts.
popularity. 1t is the ambition of
the very young girl, for. so
. clothed, she has better opportunity
to appear sophisticated and
worldly.wise.
The matrons and those who
prefer to be called plump recog-
nize the flattering effects of the
widely-used black. And for those
who come in between, black has
alluring and attractive possibilities.
Wearability is one of the
strongest arguments in favor Of
the ever-appearing black; in fact,
It Is likewise an argument in favor
of the new fashions. Not for
many seasons has there been such
noticeable absence of freakish
or extreme styles. This desire for
variability naturally brings choice
of the darker colors as its ally,
with black. brown. and midnight
or navy blue in the lead.
When a frock decides to be
fashioned from black, 1t spends
many thoughtful hours in the Sc
lection of fabric and the styles to
be employed. A skirt fullness in
trOduced by meas of circular
panels or godets, is one of the
distinctive features Of this inter
esting autumnal season.
It is not confined to dresses that
call themselves gowns. nor is it re-
stricted to afternoon or evening
wear. One secs it in street frocks
as well as suits, and welcomes it
as diversion from the straight
Silhouette of the recently depart
ed season.
The godet pleat serves a double
role, in that 1t relieves the severity
of the ffock, adds necessary full
ness, and meets the long-skirt
question in the most pleasing man.
ner.
FroCks with godet pleats are like
the beggars of the Mother Goose
rhyme, strolling forth in the au-
tumn sunshine in velvet. And
when in velvet, black vies with
brown and blue. Velvet for street
wear is as new as it is feminine
! and lovely.
even the most casual observer
of fashions cannot have failed to
notice the very decided fondness
which designers display for black
combined with silver or with the
/. new colors. oddly named bisque
and burnt bread. Street frocks,
wraps and evening gowns reveal
this preference.
The most striking results are
obtained by combining fabrics of
plain surface, as the well-beloved
velvet, or, the lovely broadcloths
and kasha> cloths, new with this
reason, with those of patterned
surfaces. In black and silver. or
in black and fawn, the new wool
and silk stuffs are excellent medi-
ums for expressing tendencies Of
the hour.
A wrap quite different and indi-
vidual is fashioned from black
kasha and grey matelasse. Black
forms the lower part or skirt that
meets the low-waisted upper part
of grey and silver by adding a
girdle OF twisted black with odd
silver ornaments. A collar Of
squirrel fastens up snugly ant
blends with the silvery cast Of
the garment.
Velvet for afternoon frocks is
a fad Of the early fall and recon-
mends that the idea be followed
for winter wear. The silhouette is
mostly the same, that Of a snug
bodice. bateau neck line, and full,
circular skirt, cut to hang in seal
lops. points or longer on the sides
than in the front or back. Silver
and ermine are employed to trim
and decorate these frocks. The
points are sometimes lined with