Perth Amboy evening news., 1922-04-19

with care to prevent the wax from
breaking. Javanese dyers use the
| effect only occasionally when the
| design is in colors that do not har-
monize readily, and so used 1t Is un-
doubtedly artistic.
For centuries, Javanese natives
have been decorating their clothing
with painstaking care, using TINS
method of wax dyeing. The meth
cd has been often described. inc
most important processes are the
waxing of the design and the DIP
ping.
Ordinarily, a little pipe-like tool,
called a tjanting, is used for waxing.
The bowl of the tjanting is filled
with melted wax and the instrument
is guided over the material so that
from a tiny spout in the bowl wax
is poured out in the lines or figures
of the pattern.
Jayanesc Process Reversed
The Javanese dip their materials
in the darker color first, and remove
a color while it is not wanted by
hot water or ammonia. western
batikers reverse the process, making
it simpler. If white, yellow and
green are the colors to be used,
wax is first poured over the part OF
the material which is to be left
white. The piece is then dipped in
yellow dye. Then that part of the
design which is to remain yellow is
covered with wax and the goods is
dipped in blue dye to produce green.
The wax is removed by gasoline.
The processes of batiking ave
to the Javanese all the dignity of an
art. They resent limitations and do
,Ot 1AaIr NTH faxyar IN dya6 nnttaTnS
produced by speed making contriv-
ances. Even though similar patterns
are used over and over. the designers
put something Of their W individ-
uality into them.
Some of the old designs are sac
red TO certain ranks and are made
especially for them. Hunting scenes,
for instance, are reserved for royalty.
Such pieces, done by the best bat
TX makers in Java, are not simple
strips of cloth with a conventional
lied stag and hound repeated at
strict intervals. A batik OF TINS
sort often contains only n large
picture and the effect is like that OF
a tapestry.
The Javanese take batik garments
as a matter of course. The work Is
much cheaper there than here, n
the native clothing is simple in cut.
Straight pieces of cloth in squares
and strips OF fixed dimensions are
the head dresses, skirts. and scarfs
Of a Javanese wardrobe.
The idea of resist dyeing by use
of wax is very old. The Javanese
are said TO have learned the method
from India in the time of Guatama
Buddha, rs centuries ago. 1t quick
ly became popular in Java, and to-
day Java, rather than India, is the
place associated with the art. In
old, forsaken temples. now hidden
in the jungle of the interior OF the
island, carved idols may be seen por-
trayed in batik garments. and the
patterns are very like those in vogue
in Java today.
Probably. the art was evolved in
India. Yet, on this side of the world.
samples of batik in typical Javanese
designs have been found. Science
is at a loss to explain how the de-
signs and processes could have been
carried across the ocean in cookie
shell native craft.
Dutch Found Batik
The batiks of Java attracted the
! Dutch traders several centuries ago,
and they brought pieces back tC
Holland. There was not much in
terest shown in this eastern pro-
duct, at first. but eventually Hol-
land began to copy the process. OF
late years the Dutch government
has encouraged its people to expert
ment with it. A government insti-
tute was established at Harlem for
displays of batik and as a source OF
information and encouragement fol
batik makers.
The history of batik in this coun.
try dates back at least to the Chicago
exposition. Mr.. Neigh remember
a display of this art by some Java
nese at that time. AS in Holland
interest in the novelty spread slow
Iy. Theatres saw possibilities fol
striking effects in the broad use Of
the dyed designs, and batik has beer
widely used for curtains and cos
tunes.
In this country we lack centuries
of tradition for a high standard In
batik. But our artists have som'
advantage in greater color resources
in knowledge OF color chemistry
and in a conscious knowledge of de
sign. So far, American ingenuity
has made no important improvement
over the ancient Javanese method
OF producing batik. II is rue thal
the general effect of the Javaness
patterns can be reproduced In print