davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

standing bow that goes straight across
the back and either projects itselt
toward the cheekbone or runs well out
beyond the ears.
The small hats. whether they 80
draped turbans or high Russian toques
of soft felt with cuff brim, rest on the
neck below the edge OF the hair. SUCH
hats demand a good looking neck; IL II
is scrawny or overlaid with fat which
rolls up like bolster this type Of poke
bonnet Is better when seen from the
front.
There is practically no kind OF hat
worn above the hair line at the back, and
there is no brim, whatever it's size, that
tits over the eyes. Eyes are to be seen
IL ears are not. And many smart women
are again showing their ears beneath a
sleek coffure
IT may be that you have decided on
feathers, or cocks plumes, or metal or
naments. or lace as hat decoration,
when you suddenly discover in the pass
ing show parade that turbans of felt and
velvet have curious new decoration.
II is made of flattened punches of large
oak leaves which have been put through
the shining process. These run down
ward from the top of the crown, fiat
against the surface OF tire hat and ex-
tend beyond the tip of the ear. They
give an instant suggestion of old warrior
helmets. Sometimes flat loops OF ribbon
are substituted for these leaves. silk
handkerchiefs in brilliant bsndanna
colors when wrapped about the crown
OF hat fall in two tabs over one ear
to keep within the general movement OF
hat decoration.
These handkerchiefs were extrav-
agantly worn at summer resorts and
they return to winter fashions in silk
instead of cotton.
They are used over the bare shoulders
when an afternoon dance frodx is worn.
Tiny chiffon Randkerchiefs in bright en-
broidery on black or leaf brown
foundation are tied about the wrist,
even when one is in full evening dress
they act as a bracelet. One frequently
sees them at dinner parti es. Women
seem to spend most of their. time taking
them off and tying them back.
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

make a muff at will. Many of the
houses use them on cloth models.
We also find at Cherut's another per
fectly straight narrow coat of Persian
lamb, which has band of the same,
dyed brown and set at the hem as its
only trimming. An immense mantle
full from the shoulders is made of civet
cat, dyed orange, and lined with orange
velvet. Hudson seal is worked exactly
like cloth and cut in Cheruit's charac-
teristic long line, with a gathered frill
set across the front at the knees and a
fiat back. This model has immense
pockets and muff sleeves. The same
shape is carried out in breitschwantz
and in taupe. The clever new imita
tions have appealed to Cheruit; great
cape of black and silver lame in an
Egyptian pattern is lined with the
imitation chlnchilla (really rat), which
was first seen at Channels last Febru-
ary. This Imitation is extraordinarily
successful at a little distance. Civet
cat besides being dyed orange is treated
so that II closely resembles kolinsky
Cheruit uses odd furs. such as gazelle,
unplucked beaver and leopard as trim
ming furs, and her fur trimmed suits
are remarkable for the odd forms In
which the skin is cut and then en-
crusted. Several models are trimmed
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

with double twisted frllls of such fure
as shaved lamb or taupe, set around
the necks running down one side oi
the bodice to fastening at the left
hip. and sometimes running round the
hem and up one side of the skirt as
we'll. Other trimming furs are skunk
squirrel and kolinsky. Short fur coats
complete dresses there Is one in beaver
worn over a frock of printed chamois
and black velvet, and another of caraeul
over q gown of rich Burgundy red
velvet, the skirt encrusted with ovals os
the same fur.
Renee's furs are very interesting this
season. She also makes the short fun
coat to complete gown of woolen ma
terial, trimmed with the same fur. Some
times instead of a coat we have sort
of cape which is really great square;
two corners are fastened In front at the
neck, while the other two may be taken
in the hands and brought round to the
front, making a close cape form, or the
square may fall in the back, leaving the
front of the fock uncovered.
Renee make three quarter mole coat,
to complete a gown, the skirt Of which
Is also made of mole, with a matching
crepe blouse She offers models in Hud-
son seal, broadtail and taupe, which
have bloused backs and great cape
sleeves. She gives us a coat dress Of
gray shaved lamb, the bodice part but
toning straight up the front, the model
trimmed with bands of shaded gray
astrakan. She lines coat OF sable with
peach colored gaufre velvet, and O
squirrel cape with silver cloky. Several
of her models show fur lined coats, for
fur Innings are popular this season with
several houses, including Jenny. Lanvin
Molyneaux, Beer and Chanel.
Jean Patou and Molyneaux both show
special fur models, remarkable for being
The New York herald., 1922-10-15
New Modes in Cloaks
and Gowns Portrayed

Copyright. 1922, by Vogue. New York.
wool velours suit tops a skirt
with a circular cut that is its
most important feature. Lapping
slightly to the left. it gives the
appearance of one piece coat TO
the costume rather than that Of
a separate coat and skirt. For
those who no longer care for the
loose coat this model is admi-
rable. for a decided line is given
it by the corded belt at a very
low waist line, the smaller arm
hole and the uneven skirt line.
6S75-Even In the afternoon frock,
the draped effect Is an important
feature. This model of black
twill has slim bodice and tight
tailored sleeves and depends upon
the draped skirt for distinction.
The drapery allows the loose
fold to fall In a point at the front
and is caught at the waist by a
covered buckle.
6S74-The otherwise simple bodice
of this gown of almond crepe de
Chine is elevated to a more elabo-
rate class by the interesting
treatment of embroidery, which Is
done in cinnamon and brown; the
elaborate cuffs are cut to fall in
points. The skirt is a successful
example of what can be done
with a straight piece of material.
1t is swathed about the figure,
caught by covered buckles and
allowed to fall in graceful drapery
at the left.
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

and concrete idea OF what a gown would
mean to her figure and her wardrobe
when she sees IL worn by the manne-
quin.
1t is the canny American woman who
insists upon the fact that she sees her
clothes in movement. She wants to find
how the back looks when the wearer
turns how the hat sweeps out when the
wearer dances or takes tea or faces the
wind she wants to see how the lapels of
the coat rise or rest on the chest when
the wearer sits down.
She knows quite a thing or two about
getting clothes in these days. the canny
American woman. and the amusing part
of 1t Is that she is quite determined to
have her own way when she is in the
hands of a seller of clothes. That's no.
as 1t used to be-
It must be your observation that. after
all, we catch the true glimpses of fashion
In the parade of the street, the crowd in
a restaurant, in the theater. at dance.
Take hats, for instance
If you have regarded the fashions in
head covering through the shop windows
YOU said. probably. that nothing has
changed In millinery; that the big brin.s
still swirl outward like wheels; that
turbans are draped and have fiat orna-
mentation at the side. But you're wrong.
And you find you are wrong the moment
you see smart women wearing their new
hats
Paris sent these same shapes to Amer
lea last spring, but We did not put them
on as though they were poke bonnets.
Now we do. This is the important diff
ference between what was and what is.
New hats are worn as far down on
the nape of the neck as a woman can
push them. and they scoop upward over
the eyes somewhat like grocer's sugar
shovel They do not show the hair on
the forehead unless the wearer is an
individuallst and manages to pull one
curly lock down between the eyebrows.
The most fashionable hats have no
brim whatever in the back they cling
to the head where the crown ends and
they are trimmed with an immense out
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

of kolnsky. This skin is treated 10
make II flexible and has an extra
ordinary brilliance. 1t is worked in
wide bands. running horizontally in tho
lower part of the model. and vertically
in the upper part. The lining is OF
black taffeta.
At Grunwaldts we find nothing but
the classic" furs, for this house does
not quite approve Of treating skins to
look like something else. Quantities
OF snow white crmine, beautifully
matched. sable and Its lighter colored
relation. sable marten. called in French
zibeline martre. some mink. but less
than in recent seasons. gray squirrel.
kolinsky. breitachwantz, Persian lamb.
The New York herald., 1922-10-15
Couturiers show Fur.

Many of the great couturiers special
ize in fur models in their winter col
lections. Among them the house Of
Cheruit has made a great reputation for
the clever working OF furs. Here we
, find series of coats in shaved lamb.
which is more of novelty in France
than in America. These models are all
on the same lines, that is to say they
are perfectly straight and narrow; they
have either no collars at all. being fin
ished with a flat band of fur running
around the neck and down the fronts, or
a small band collar. They come in
various shades of taupe, beige and gray,
but the most attractive rnoderl Is In
black. perfectly plains with a standing
band collar and immense frills of fitch.
so wide as to form the better half of the
sleeves, making cuffs which conceal the
hands.
"Muff cuffs" are a novelty of this
season, for muffs have been in disfavor
for some time owing to the fact that
wraps have no fastenings and so require
the use of the hands to drape them into
place. Chilly people dislike cold fingers
however. and hence the invention of the
great cuffs. often of different fur, which
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

worked exactly as IL they were of cloth.
Many houses. including Deuillet, have
offered US three piece suits OF fur. with
crepe blouses attached to the fur skirts.
Martial ct Armand offer a caracal coat
with smart lame blouse. Deuillet has
a charming idea in a cape of sable, lined
with rose pink velvet. veiled with pink
lace, the lace being much longer than
the fur. so that wide fsill. the line
mounting toward the front, appears be-
low the fur edge OF the wrap.
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

mole; these. in the order named, are
the favorites Of the house. We find
Hudson seal. Of course, for this fur.
originally considered an imitation, is
often preferred to the real 2 Alaskan
variety. Nevertheless the real is COM
ing back into the mode. The chief OBJ
lection to 1t is Its weight and infleXi-
bility.ss. Clever sfurriers are sGoing to
work out this problem now that the
skin is returning TO commerce. and
Martial ct Armand show model in
real seal, which. cut on straight lines
succeeds in looking graceful and has
not the clumsiness of the original fur
Aviotty is furrer who works ex-
actly like couturier; she loves and
studies lines. and the fact that she is
working in fur instead of in cloth is not
allowed to interfere in any way with
her achievement of 1t. An extremely
restrained taste is manifested in all her
The New York herald., 1922-10-15

fur models; the Innings are somber. care
fully matched in tone to the fur, and
the form of her coats Is original, but
never eccentric. This year she is using
a great deal Of taupe. like so many
other houses.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
-
HI EAR, IApF DIE DROBLE MSkJ

ing to her all the time?
ANXIOUS MOTHER.
a 14-yeat-o1d girl needs an allow
ance if it is possible to give it to
her. 1 think you will find an allow
ance helpful in your case. would
suggest that you give your child 70
cents or $1.40~ a week and deduct a.
portion of it when she is saucy and
disobedient. If she receives 70 cents
take off from five cents upward ac-
cording to the nature of the offence,
and if she receives $1.40 take off 10
cents and upward.
Perhaps your opposition to her
playing with the girl she most enjoys
tends to make her disagreeable as
much as the girl herself. I would
suggest that you make the best OF
your daughters determination to play
with her and from now on encourage
the play to take place in your own
home. Let her invite her friend to
tea. Perhaps on further acquaint-
ance you will find many admirable
qualities which your daughter appre-
cfated and which you failed to OBJ
serve.
Yes, I would advise you to take
your little girl places when she par
ticu1ar1y wants to go. 1t will be a.
treat to her to attend movies and
other entertainer and it will be
worth your while to keep her con-
tented by taking her.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
MIGUEL BATTLES WITH HIS
FEELINGS

They came to a fallen log, and here
Miguel and Ilona halted and sat
down. The odor of growing things,
new-turned earth, and budding trees
came to their nostrils. The call of
wild birds in her ear once more
sounded restfu1 to I1ona. She stretch
ed her arms wide with joy and long
ing she sat entranced, listening, al
most forgetful of the man beside her
Miguel was of these surroundings a
part. Her heart beat quickly aus she
thought of this. For the first time in
days she felt really happy.
Its like coming home again, Mi
leaned back her head against a
friendly tree trunk and breathed a
sigh Of perfect contentment.
THAT is as it should be, he an
swered looking at the mystery of her
cast on her cheeks from her long,
whirling as he sat watching the girl
yet so very near and dear. Could it
really be true that his Iona had come
back to the old nest to bid him fare
well? How more than fortunate he
was. How he 1onged more than ever
for the right to take her in his arms
and tell her of his love. With in
finite strength he restrained the con-
f1icting emotions within him. This
was not the time. To force something
now might be fatal. IIona must be
allowed to wander as she willed, to
try her. wings in new fields, and
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
nkHE GOLDEN GIRLl
J BY pUYuR pNlLlpSG

above all to stay free as air until such
time as Fate should intervene and
cast its weight in the final balance.
And are. you having wonderful
times in this new world of yours.
Iona, Princess?'' he asked DO
they take to you kindly as we
did? And what do you do all day
long? I I see that they spare no
moneyion your c1othes,' he said with
a perp1eMng smile.
mo, no indeed. They force me to
change three times a a day, Mi
guel! Fahcy, your golden girl, who
used to slip into her one dress day
after day and go barefooted. This
was the hardest to get accustomed to.
l think. And, oh, how L have Ionged
for the sound Of the wind in the pines
at night, Miguel. Maybe you under
stand?'
Eyes, think do, and I also I'M
derstand many other things that you
can't possibly, as yet. my DEAR" he
said, putting at his pipe and watch
ing the wreaths of smoke go up as of
Old You must go up, of old.
You must be patient. Ilona. and try
to accustom yourself to your new
surroundings. 1t will be best in the
end, and some day, some strong, fair
haired youth will claim you for his
bride, and you will settle down just
as happily as if you had never trod
the gypsy ture, my dear
THAT will never be, Miguel as YOU
very well know" answered Ilona.
gently as she suddenly bent and Slip
ped off her shoes. much to the amuse-
ment and satisfaction of the watch
ing Miguel.
(To Be Continued)
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
IE6dIl H92!g!!G:sE!s!MlEoS.L!P H1NX

and heat until very hot. and then
place where pan will maintain this
heat without getting any hotter,
if you use gas turn down the burner,
add the eggs. LIE them cook very
slowly. This way they will not leave
a hard crust around the edge.
Plain Ome1et-Place three table
spoons of shortening in pan while
heating. Place three eggs in a bowl
and add one tablespoon milk, one ia
blespoon water. Beat with a fork to
mix thoroughly. The yolks may be
separated from the whites and the
latter beaten stiff. folded in last.
When the pan us smoking hot turn
in the mixture, then place where the
omelet will cook slowly. season, turn.
fold and roll on a hot platter.
Poached Eggs-to prepare poached
eggs place water in pan and add one
tablespoon of vinegar to each pint
of water used. Bring to a boil, open
eggs on saucer and slide into boiling
water Let simmer slowly until it
forms and then lift with a skinner
onto a napkin to drain Then roll
gently on a slice of buttered toast.
Suggestions
Never put pineapple juice into gel
atine if you wish it to thicken.
A bean pot can be easily washed
if it is put to soak on the stove with
a. teaspoon of soda in cold water. Let
it come to a boil for five minutes,
being sure it is full of water This
plan works quicker if a cover is
placed over the top.
If copper or brass is very dirty
don't worry, but put some fine salt on
a plate, dip it into cut lemon and
rub on the metal The strong acid
will remove the worst stain..
Don't allow graniteware to dry over
hot fire, as the heat in expanding
may cause the outside to scale.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
Ie healthy man is the most merit
Is product of nature!-Carlyle
CHRONIC BRONCHITIS

any elderly people suffer from
mic bronchitis. An attack of the
be or of acute bronchitis has been
to run on weeks and months
1t should have been cleared up,
then the Inflammation of the
hes" become chronic. The trou-
Us apt also to go along with other
Neutrality-suspicious. or conSump-
heart, artery and kidney all
IT'S. alcoholism, indigestion, rheu-
ism and govt. Workmen in those
IeerouS trades where they con-
fly breathe in irritating Vapors
VERY subject to chronic bronchitis.
r. SO years this disease is easily
floped, It thrives in damp, cold
Manageable weather. The suffer
s. short of breath on exertion and
lastly exhausted; his chest is apt
EEL tight. He has, however, little
and rarely any fever. His cough
les with the state of the atmos-
he and with the season; in the
n1er there may be none at all, or
morning and evening. The gem
health is then pretty fair, but
the coming of cold weather the
|ase becomes prominent. At all
ks there will ge in most cases the
Iptoms also of associated diseases.
|hese patients. when they can af-
it, should spend their winters
dry warm equable climate such
he Southland affords. They must,
ny event. from November to May,
Id exposure and at all times ia
L. The strenuous life is not for
|n. The clothing, especially the
twear, must ever be warm and
the diet of easily digested food;
meals regular; the stomach never
Headed. Such sufferers must
er take on fat. The body's elm
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Or Course
I am quite nervous at times; have
quite a few spells of palpitation of the
heart. Do you think I had better
consult a family doctor? I am a girl
of "a years old.
Answer-Of course. go to your fam
lily doctor. Sometimes heart pa1pita-
ton is serious; but generally it is not
so. In your case, no doubt, the nerves
are producing and the heart is react
ing on the nervous system. What is
the use of going through your nightly
scare when your heart thumps? Go
to the doctor and learn thee worst
He will, no doubt, find gas in the
stomach, or something like that to be
all there is in it. Being thus assured
YOU will go your way rejoicing.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
Miss DAILY Given
Many Choice Gifts

Mary Elizabeth Daily, IA Thorme
street was rendered birthday party
Monday evening Miss Agnes Skully
entertained with piano and vocal Sc
1ections after which there was fancy
dancing by Miss Ruby and Miss Doro-
thy Brennan, and Miss Mary O'Don-
nell Miss DAILY was the recipient Of
many, handson7 e~gifts. delicious
supper was served late in the evening.
The guests were Miss Agnes Skuly,
Miss Ruth Krupak, Miss Catherine
Gardner, Miss Norine and Miss Alice
Kennedy, Miss Florence Warner, Miss
Ruth Marvin. Miss Mary Monohan,
Robert and Edward Mahoney, Philip
Marvin. Michael and Richard Skully.
Iobn Monahan. James and Edwin
Daley
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29

gent treatments If it is under the
the skin a powder that has astringent
properties. Any powder may be made
to do this is a small amount of salicy-
lie acid lis added to it. Your drug
gist will do this for you.
Eleanor:-The vaseline you men
ton is a trade preparation and not
what is known as red vaseline. Any
vaseline in which there is red pep
per would be used to relieve pain
much the same as a Iniment or a
mustard plaster.
Richard n. S.:-If it is natural for
you to have a heavy beard it will
not be ugly as it will be in accordance
with your own type. You cannot de-
stroy this growth without injuring
the skin also.
T. I. :-Peroxide, recommended for
occasional use in bleaching the skin,
is the same that used for bleach
ing the hair 1t is also used for
treating wounds as it has great
cleansing value. Cucumber juice is
made by stewing all the essence from
the vegetable itself.
Edward RI shall be glad to
mail a formula for your hair if you
send me a stamped addressed enveI-
ope. There. is no reason why your
hair should not recover as the hair
of others have, who have also lost it
the result of flu.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
HEALTH Talks
By John B. Huber AMMD 4

NATIVE organs must receive careful
attention. The physician will pre-
scribe medicines appropriate to the
individual case. His success in treat
ing this disease will depend largely
on his finding out how it is original
ed, and what diseases, (such as we
have nentioned) accompany the
chronic bronchitis. Although COM
plete cure may not be possible,a great
deal can be done to prevent extension,
to avoid complications, to ease the
symptoms, and to prolong life.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
Tomorrow-Hydrogen Peroxide

All Inquiries addressed to DR.. HUI
Der in care of the Health Talks
department will be answered in these
columns in their turn. This requires
consid cradle time, however. owing to
the great number received. So if a
personal or quicker reply is desired, a
stamped and sself-addressed envelope
must be enclosed with the question:
The Editor.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1922-03-29
Tomorrow-wen Kept Feet

All inquiries addressed to Miss
Forbes in care of the Beauty Chats
department will be answered in these
columns in their turn. This requires
consid erable time, however, owing to
the great number received. So if a
personal or quicker reply is desired, a
stamped and self-addressed envelope
must be enclosed with the Question:
The Editor.