The New York herald., 1922-09-03
Majority Of the Modistes Spe-
cializing in This Material
in All Col0rs.

(Copyrioht, 1922, By Vogue, NeW York;
JUDGING by the millinery collections
this will be velvet winter. for the
great majority of modistes are spe-
cializing in this material. Some OF them
prefer panne to velvet. while others are
using odd varieties-striped, pressed,
plushlike velvet, or even, In the case OF
Maria Guy, shot in two colors. Lately
we have liked q costume in which the
gown itself was in one color, while all
the accessories were in another. Per-
haps, therefore. IL our hats are OF vel
vet our winter costumes may perversely
choose another fabric. though present In
dications point the other way.
After velvet and panne we shall prob
ably see other materials. such as one
of the new satins-"satin metallise,
which is extremely shiny and looks as
II 1t had been waxed, or satin cuir."
very heavy quality, sometimes with a
smooth surface and sometimes looking
like the grain OF leather. a certain
closely wrapped toques and turbands
will be made of all sorts of materials.
including a feltlike cloth and the metal
tissues.
Felt itself will be reserved for the
little hats, which do not seem in any
hurry to leave the mode, but which do
not appear In any numbers at the for
NAL winter collections Of the modistes.
II the materials OF these first collec-
tions seem a little limited. shapes are
infinitely varied. Every one Is talking
of .ae direct influence of the ball given
at the Opera on the night before the
Grand Prix, the period OF which was
Eighteenth Century Venice. The tri-
cornc OF Longhi had things all its own
way. of course. and the leading modistes
have been saying ever since that they
are going to make a lot of tricorncs.
Even when shapes are definite. round
like a saucer for example, form which
is liked by several milliners. including
Georgette. Lewis and Evelyne Varon, the
material, probably velvet. Is not used
smoothly to cover tho brim hat but Is
draped in a series of twisted folds that
require the greatest skill in handling.
Many OF the modistes are making an
effort to get away from the cloche and
capeline shape which they consider have
been in vogue too long. Lucie Hamar
is making all kinds OF turbans, tricornes
and odd shapes, but no cloches. Lewis
favors the medium sized shapes, with
<oques draped in Egyptian form and
some tricornes: but at Lewis one finds
such an immense variety OF hats that
II Is hard to determine his special style
Verlaine does not believe in the per-
Hstence of the immense hat for the
winter. He prefers rather small shapes
often with high crowns and with a brim
wider on one side than the other. Some
times he varies this shape by widening
the brim at the front and dropping IL
n bit at each side, giving a suggestion
of the Directoire.
Maria Guy. who inclines TO height In
some trimmings obtains her effects with
q great bow OF brown cire moire ribbon.
She likes the turban, the beret and the
moderately large. round shape. Often
she makes her grims irregular by in
denting. or huting them in unexpected
ways. She uses wonderful double
faced velvet. faille on one side and silk
velvet on the other, a material which
makes US think Of the period mentioned
above. She also uses shot velvet. Her
berets arc made onesided by the addi-
tion of great ear Of the material on
the right side.
Camille Roger is one OF the few who
continues 60 make the large capelines
In winter materials. She uses both
velvet and felt for them and sometimes
combines both materials In the same
hat One OF golden brown velvet is
trimmed only with frill OF matching.
stiffened lace under tho brim. which
sticks out beyond II. She is not using
the cloche shape except for very small
hats In one colored velvet. almond.
green. golden brown. beige. &c. She
likes panne best and after that velvet
and felt, and she has n penchant for
the hat which is all OF one material
trimmed with itself.
Evelyne varon has given up both
cioche and capeline and is making the
large, round. saucer shapes. tricornes
and toques and turbans. Her shapes
are frequently draped, and her turbans
and toques run up in front into point.
and sometimes have one point continued
into a high end which stands up we'll.
She also likes the modified Directoire
shape. with one side OF the brim much
wider than the other.
Some small shapes have a turned up
cuff all round. SO high that the crown
IL quite concealed. This cuff is often Of
different material and color from the
crown. for she likes two colors COM
timed In the same hat. She drapes her
material SO much that she employs little
trimming. but sometimes feather puffs,
ouills and long thin wings are used.
As to the colors, the browns are de-
cidedly In the lead. We hear the same
thing from the dressmakers. so that