davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

otTcct OTcS6 SnoWln3 tno RUSSIAN
influence In sIeeves-BIue Serge
and Black Satin. 1893
styles and the deficiencies and failures
Of none. Thus the dressmakers are
showing both the short and the long
skirt, with all varying degrees of
length between the two extremes of
high-shoe-top ana floor-roucning length.
Likewise. the full gamut in sleeve
variations Is sounded. There are
dresses entirely sleeveless and those
with sleeves so long that they form
twin trains. There is an indication
that the wide sleeve Is on the wane.
The long. fitted sleeve Is offered in
its place, but that 1t will usurp the
place of its predecessor is only a
prediction. 1t remains for women to
indicate which they prefer.
Worth makes feature of fancy
sleeves, some Of which are very long
that is, much longer than the arm.
One can scarcely imagine a lady din
ing IN dress of this sort with any
degree Of comfort, as the sleeves are
usually gathered in the hand or held
as shawl or mantle. Worth Is no
exception in showing this type Of ex-
aggerated sleeve
Renee gives to some Of her models
distinct note Of the Italian renais-
sance through sleeves which trail on
the floor In the form of twin trains.
One very striking model Of this char
acter in red satin shows sleeves sol
idly embroidered in white crystal
beads, this embroidery weighing
them so that they train in majestic
fashion on either side Of the wearer.
The dress has no embroidery other
than that on the sleeves. In spite of
these long sleeves the arms are prac-
tically bare, as the sleeves are open
from the shoulders.
Russian Note Prevails In Dress.
The Russian influence is seen every
where. There are dresses and suits
of pure Russian style, many of them
bearing significantly Russian names.
Russian embroideries and Russian de-
signs prevail more than any other
kind of ornamentation. The color
combinations found in trimmings and
their mode Of application In the form
of broad girdles and the big plaque
like Communications all show Russian
artistry as the source of their inspira-
ton.
In the use Of materials there is the
same variation In quantity or yard
age employed. Some of the new
dresses can still be cut from three
and one-half meters, while in other
models from five to six meters of
two-yard-wide goods will be required.
In point of decoration there Is the
same wide range Of choice. There
are dresses entirely devoid Of trim
mings and others so lavishly embel-
lished that II Is almost impossible to
determine the nature Of the original
fabric or foundation which holds the
| garniture. In these various processes
OF elaboration the manufacturer of
fabrics has taken no small part. Many
| Of the new materials come from the
looms beaded. embroidered with
drawn threads. painted, corded,
tucked. quilted, blistered, hammered
creped and crinkled until one wonders
what they. might have been in Their
| pristine state.
No arbitrary decisions are made
regarding color. All primaries are
represented. together with a multi
tude Of variations in art tones. Thus
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

was enrolled In a large class In
,attaRy. Tire instDGetsr3 was discuss
ing the various means by which the
shAIen is 6nfhsferreasfTqm one Bower
to another, HE
s}xD oeazday one .kanpa4 to know how
the wild ginger flower Is pollenizedT
lhsnsked. sSfiz5- Iu1a,s III
II know that 1t Is done by oIje GER
tain iHaAct better ,adsnted to the pur-
pose than any. other" ! said. eaker to
SHOW my kncwledee'fof naturai Bis
tory, 'but I can't recall its nanle.T
Eyes. it is hard name to remem-
besy.i he said, :a,n5t. ant. "-ChicAgo
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

dSl, tne natural. vital name color
and In its train numerous other reds
having an admixture of yellow or of
blue or of brown, thereby establish
ing several distinct red series of null
tiple tones. In rose shades there are
geranium, coral and copper. each one
In all possible diversity.
Navy Blue Again in LImeIight.
Deep royal blue is another favorite,
especially in combination. AS for
beige and castor these tones are as
the sands of the sea. There is not
one that does mot seem to have rep
resentation. Navy blue is coming
back into its own. notably navy blue
serge combined with red; also blue
crepe marocain and crepe de chine
three-piece suits Black has its adj
vocates. Gold and silver in both the
bright and softened or vielle tones,
together with steel, copper, bronze
and gun metal, are very important.
very large proportion of the new
blouses, whether they are, separate
. or designed for special suit or are
a part of three-piece costume, are
Russian. From a fashion standpoint
there Is an interesting trend toward
the use of the blouse. This has been
brought about by the fact that all Of
the great French dressmakers in their
recent openings stressed the tailored
suit and also because of the real
nh fhn
rage through being sponsored by the
best-dressed women In Paris.
Distinctly new In both cotton and
silk blouses for spring are the Rrs-
sion models embroidered In designs
taken from Russian documents
Many of the new models are made
Of cotton crepe, which makes them
more than ever resemble the Russian
peasant garments, despite their Paris
origin. Any number of these are be-
ing brought out by French manufac-
turers and selling in quantities for
distribution in large American stores.
They are worn with white serge as
well as with white cotton skirts for
sport wear.
Among the materials used in blouses
are white organdie embroidered in
deep yellow, yellow tussah embroid-
cred in white and yellow linen. There
are the pure white crepe de chine and
crepe georgette blouses. One interest
ing tailored model is of fine white
linen stitched In lines initiating Scotch
plaid. There are blouses made Of
printed mousseline and then there are
the pure white, exquisitely made, linen
blouses Of the type known as chem
isier; that Is to say, shlrtwaist.
Blue Enamel Trims Black Slippers.
A Paris shoemaker is featuring
slippers of patent leather with designs
in colored enamel. Small wreaths of
flowers form buckles at the front and
straps at the sides. Other models
show straps which cross and button
high on the sides. These are made Of
the enameled leather, the designs be-
Ing In conventional flowers. The but
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05
Navy Blue Again in LImeIIsht.

ri<4i \ tts4 SIZE - ? ~ -
tons are in the predominating color Of
the decoration, usually red or blue.
Blight blue decorations are the smart
est and most popular on black shoes.
One sees, wonderful white shoes with
blne forgetsfnenuts forming the decor
aaon for straps and buckles. Red
shoes are also well liked. as well as
black shoes stitched with red and
green.
Bootmakersi are among the most
versatile people In the world. Why,
when they have shown themselves
able to create SO many astonishing
things In the way of footwear, they
should for so long have held to con.
sentative shoes and slippers is a
mystery. Even the drcssmaker OF
today Is scarcely able to keep pace
with the clever modern shoemaker
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05
Benefits Of Good Roads.

Good roads In the country will do
more to lower the high cost Of living
and more for the prosperity, comfort.
culture and happiness Of the people
than things fought over In IL prssi-
Dental campaigns.
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05
coed q Motortruck Line.

The establishment of motor truck
express lines In every farming com
munity will stimulate the production
Of more food, reduce the cost OF liv-
ing and probably will make public
markets successful In American citIsA
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05
ROAD
BUILDING
PROBLEM OF sKEwED BRIDGE
Methods Used for Calculating stresses
and Proportlonlng Are Not : :.
Approved.

prepared by the United States Department
OF Agriculture)
Methods alculating the stresses
and proportionlng the size of skewed
concrete-arch bridges -whieh" Aape-beeh
considered good practice in the past
may be incorrect and result in the col
lapse of the structure, according to
engineers of the bureau of public
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05
consIderate Husband.

Shelf I'm not greatly mista1EeH
heard the clock strike two whe S0u
came In last night. Am l wronE III
He-Nd. my dear, you are fite
right. You heard 1t strike twff As
a matter Of fact. 1t was going toE3I ke
'Eeyrr.eisgsesv evtr zfeertnsz -thdf The
noise xu1Iiz disturb I. xcsa & EssReed
the clock
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

Skewed-Arch Bridge Used for Stream
Crossing Road iagonaily-Note Po-
sitlon Of Railing on Opposite Sides
of Road. tf.-tt
roads of the United States Department
of Agriculture. A skew bridge Is one
In which the center line of the bridge
is not perpendicular with the abut-
ment on which the bridge rests, and
Is used when bridge crosses a stream
or railway track diagonally. The
bureau is Jointly responsible with the
several state highway departments for
the correctness Of the design of all
structures on federal-aid roads. and
for this reason the problem Is being
carefully studied.
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

there is the brilliant red of the spec
fr';m, the natural, vital flame color
and In its train numerous other reds
having an admixture of yellow or of
blue or of brown, thereby establish
ing several distinct red series of null
tiple tones. In rose shades there are
geranium, coral and copper. each one
In all possible diversity.
Greene County herald. (Leakesville, Miss.) 1898-current, 1922-05-05

Congress Reluctantly "a sbaye1,
settled down into the seat of conyic-
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
OLD ROSEBUD'S
OWNER Forced
TO KILL RACER
Famous Derby Winner at Churchill
Downs Ends Career Through
Accident.

Louisville, KY. June 12-The an
nouncement that Old Rosebud had
met with an accident which forced
his owner to destroy him was re
ceived with regret by all followers
of the thoroughbred sport. But in
the Blue Grass the loss of the once
great race horse touched a much
wider circle than that composed ex-
cIusively of followers of the turf.
For Old Rosebud was a true son
of the Blue Grass. The time in
which he won the 40tn renewal of
the Kentucky Derby in 1914-2:O3
2-5-still stands as the record for
the classic, Notwithstanding the
sterling thoroughbreds including
Sir Barton, Omar Khayyam, Regret
and Norwich, that have gone the
mile and one-quarter to win the
race in the eight years that have
passed since the sturdy son of Uncle
led the field to the wire at Church
i'll Downs. His name has been a
household word and the symbol of
speed in Kentucky homes for years
and persons who never had witness
ed a race spoke Familiarity of when
Rosebud won the Derby"
Old Rosebud was purchased from
John E. Madden by Hamilton c. APP
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
FOREIGN BORN ASK
CLEARER IDEAS OF
GLORIOUS FOURTH

New York-The League of For
eign Born Voters has suggested a
standardized celebration of Inde-
pendence day. which calls for hold
ing of a civic court of honor" in
try, featuring pageant illustrative
of epochs in American history.
The league maintains that the
immigrant is confused by the wav-
ing of flags and conglomeration OF
sound that greets him on the
Fourth of July, and that no organ
lied attempt to interpret to him
the meaning of the day is made.
Parades are suggested to give a
true conception of the cultural con-
tribution of the foreign-born citi-
Zens. There should be floats or
tableaux depicting in panorama the
eras of discovery, exploration, col
oniZation, signing OF the declaration
of independence, birth of the Amer
lean flag, winning of the west, free
dom for the slaves, industrial
growth of the nation and America
and the World war.
The Boy Scouts of America have
volunteered personally TO invite
new citizens to be guests of the
community.
Speeches should be directed to
practical ends, the league believes
tending to hasten the speaking OF
English and the reading of Ameri-
can newspapers. and to encourage
the native born to show real neigh
borliness by ceasing the use of Of
fensive nicknames.
Distribution of flags and mes
sage from the president, with proc
lamations by governors and mayors
also were urged, with the sugges-
ton that motion pictures depicting
the progress of American democ-
racy and slides containing quota
tions from the addresses of famous
Americans be introduced.
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
LIQUOR SMUGGLERS
DOING PROSPEROUS
TRADE IN NORWAY

Stockholm.-Tne smuggling of
alcohol into Norway has become a
well organized and growing trade,
and this in spite of the extension of
Norway's territorial waters for a
distance seawards of 10 miles.
Over 100 vessels were waiting re-
Gently outside the Norwegian
fjords for customers to take liquor
already purchased. Light wines and
beer only are legal in Norway,
drinks containing more than Is per
cent of alcohol being barred.
Stroemsta, q small place in
Sweden near the Norwegian border
lis an important center for the snug
Cling f1otillas which are composed
mostly of German and Danish YES
sells. These boats enter port and
have their cargoes sealed by the
Swedish customs people. The skip
pers meet their Norwegian custom
ers in the town and arrange for the
sale of the liquor, after which they
put the sea outside the nationality
limit and break the seals. The Nor
wegian buyers meet at a rendez-
vous and the transa actions are com
pleted
In this way enormous quantities
of liquor are brought into Norway
and prices are steadily declining.
Also there has been an increase in
the number of cases of drunken
ness, which in Christiania is re-
ported to be twice as large as in
Stockholm
The Norwegian government de-
rived an annual revenue of about
46, ,000, 900 krone from liquor before
the establishment of prohibition,
but today this has been reduced to
virtually nothing.
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
CHURCH To Be
BUILT At COST
OF 100000
Chicago Episcopal Congregation
Plans Elaborate Structure
Early Start Promised.

Chicago, Jne 12-TO put through
church building program that
eventually will call for an expendi-
ture of $1,000,000 on the site of its
present home without interfering
with services, is the plan of St.
Chrysostom's Episcopal church,
with construction of the first unit
to be started imm ediately.
Situated on North Dearborn park
way, in one of the most attractive
residential quarters of the city, a
short distance from Lake Michigan,
st. Chrysostom' is gradually to be
the present UNCOVERED structure of
st. Chrystom's is gradually to be
replaced by a unique group of
buildings of pure Gothic architec-
ture.
The parish has purchased three
residences adjoining the present
structure and running to the first
cross street to the south. One of
these has been demolished and the
other two will be remodeled to har-
monize architecturally with the
new church structure.
The immediate building program
calls for the construction of a
tower front to the present church
building and the remodeling of the
buildings that have been acquired
by the church. These structures,
three stories in height, will contain
club rooms, offices, and apartments
for members of the parish staff A
small court will separate this unit
from the church proper, with a
building to house a large gymnas-
ium, club rooms and an addition to
the parish house to be built across
the rear and forming a connecting
link in construction plan.
Plan for Chapel.
The interior Of the present church
is to be redecorated, a small chapel
will take the place of the present
vestry room at the left of the choir,
and the organ will be rebuilt and
renovated. Later it is planned to
replace the present church struc-
ture with a new church, utilizing
the new front which is to be con-
structed Immediately. 1t is ex-
pected that the building program
win cover several years, the unit
plan Of work being adopted so as
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
sWEDEN'S MEDICAL
BOARD CONDEMNS
TOTAL PROHIBITION

Stockholm-"To deprive the ma
ioritv of citizens, who do not misuse
alcoholic liquors, of what is for
them an innocent stimulant, be-
cause a small number OF people
abuse liquor seems to be rather a
draconic decree"
This opinion is founded in the of
ficiaI report just issued by the
medical board of Sweden on the
proposed introduction of total pro-
hibition. 1t has aroused intense in
terest throughout the country
which is now in the midst of ma
tion-vide conflict between the pro-
hibition forces and those who want
to maintain the present socalled
Bratt rationing system, whereby
only those who have openly SHOWN
their abuse of alcoholics are deprlV-
ed of its use. Sweden will vote on
the LIQUOR question, Aug. 81 of this
year.
The medical board points out
further that a large number OF
physicians believe that under GER
tain circumstances, and in the case
of certain diseases. alcohol cannot
be dispensed with without great
disadvantages, and it says that not
only the fatal consequences or the
ahnse of alcohol should be consid-
cred. but also those effects that
cannot be characterized as harm
full. 1t declares that mostoItHe
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12

not to interfere with church activi-
ties.
The final church structure will
seat about 500 persons, and the
front tower will be approximately
100 feet high. The gymnasium will
be one of the largest of its kind in
the city, with a seating capacity of
200. 1t will be on the first floor,
with a swimming tank in the base
ment and club rooms on the second
floor.
st. Chrysostom's church was or
ganized in 1897 as All Saints Mis-
sion, occupying a small church
building several squares from the
present structure. In January,
1898, the name was changed to ST.
Chrysostom's Mission. The lot upon
which St Chrysostom's church now
stands was urchased in April, 1894,
and in the summer of that year the
present church was erected as a
temporary structure" The first
service was held on Thanksgiving
day, 1894.
In the summer of 1913, the parish
house was built in the rear of the
church, and was enlarged in 1917
In the last few years the parish
purchased the three adjoining
houses as a step toward it's building
program. The Rev. Norman Hut
ton, the present rector, came to the
church in 1909. The first rector
was the Rev. Thaddeus Snively.
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
MORGAN view
ON TEUT LOAN
PLEASESU. S,

Continued from First Page.l
private bankers of the United
States and other countries where
the war did not materially affect in
vestnent resources. Mr. Morgan's S
trip to Europe was undertaken with
the belief that the French would
consent to a modification of the
reparation. payments and with the
expectation that a loan to Germany
would start the ball of recOnStruc-
ton rolling in Europe. France
owes large sums to Great Britain
and has been insisting from the
start that her payments to Eng
land will depend on her receipts
from Germany. She now is trying
to get the United States to accept
the same line of reasoning with re-
spect to the war debt due this
country The policy will fail and
Frances opportunity to raise funds
for any purpose will be diminish
ed because of governmental dis
favor here.
In @ViciOus Circle"
Sooner or later ministry will
arise in France which will handle
the question more adroitly, for
while the government refuses to
admit that there is a relationship
between reparations and the fund
ing of the allied war debt the con-
nection is too obvious to escape.
The only difficulty is in getting out
of a vicious circle. At present
neither side will recede. Eventual
Iy, however, if Germany's repara-
ton obligations are eased either
through postponement or actual
reduction in the scale, the Ameri-
can commission which was Great
ed to fund the allied debt will have
to take into consideration the
available sources of income and as
sets of the allied countries and
eae their burden too. But America
will not take the initiative or offer
active help until Europe does
itself. Economic recon
structon is being delayed by the
which surrounds the
problem-the threat of
coercion constantly made by
France, the tendency toward dis
solution of the existing order in
Germany if pressed too far, and
the indifference of France toward
the balancing of her international
budget due to the alleged necessity
of keeping a large army to enforce
the treaty of Versailles which
means in the main the collection of
Anf nd N ~
the case a step or two further and
gratifies officials here because it
NAV have the effect of making
France see that hope of American
aid cannot be entertained until the
German reparation problem is
viewed not from a sentimental or
nationaIistic but from a practical
and economic standpoint.
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12

so-called primitive races used al
cohol and expresses doubt that a
cultured community can suddenly
dispense with stimulaEts. If the
aim is to produce a non-alcoholic
community, this end must be
achieved through Legislation impos-
ing gradual restrictions, so that the
present and possibly the next gen.
Grafton may be afforded time . to
change their habits.
In conclusion the board. while
emphasizing the necessity for Wig
orously fighting the misuse of alco-
hol, recommends that the personal
restriction system now in force in
Sweden be further tested, develop
ed and improved.
Sweden has used the Bratt sys-
TEN for seven years. Under it the
country's inebriate record reached
the lowest figures since 1918 dur
ing the first quarter of this year,
according to the Swedish social
board. The drop in the. inebriety
record has been especie lily marked
in about Stockholm where it
amounts to no less than 36.S per-
cent compared to the last quarter
of 1921 In some Swedish prOvin-
cial towns drunkenness has de-
creased So to 60 percent.
The Rock Island Argus and daily union., 1922-06-12
SCHOOLCHUDREN
OF SWEDEN TAUGHT
GAMES AND DANCES

Stockholm.-Swedish school chill
oren Of the province of Skaane will
mis- summer learn the charming
!oik games and dances in which
taelr great-grand sires and moth
sfs delighted generations ago. At
.ae same time the youngsters VIII
Keep up their useful Swedish gym
tsastices, without which no educa-
uonal venture in this country Is
complete.
4. Arrangements have been made
oof summer camp on the estate
" bosioekloster in Skaane, South
s1h Sweden, for l 900 children and
eaehers to be conducted some
saat on the same principle as an
aaner1can recreational camp for
v9ys and girls. Emphasis, however,
f.n ui be laid on peApetuating the
''.h games and dances.
There has of late years been a
ssanite and conscious movement
ssoroad in this country to country
~ y revive interest in the old. ma
INA yaal folk games and dances,
sLn Laien for picturesqueness ana
.aoiesomeness are regarded as far
-1pefior to modern society dances.