The New York herald., 1921-10-30

particularly preferred over here any
longer. except among those who want
to buy a comfortable hat, and who are
not only regardless, but Indifferent, TO
| what is first and last In fashion.
| The French use q type OF felt hat
that is as pIiable as velvet. 1t has
nothing of the stiffness Of the hats that
Were worn In America last year.
| When this fabric is fashioned into
large hats II is so supple and pliable
that the brin droops and bends as
though it were soft straw. 1t is this
quality that givecs 1t grace when II Is
made into those wide, Second Empire
hats that would be objectionable If they
were rigid.
Satin is used for hats. also velvet, but
they are ornamented with embroidery or
black piumage, not left In sharp severity.
True, women continue to wear plain.
black satin hats In Paris. but they are
fnfrcquent and are not seen where
women foregather for social purposes.
The crepe de Chine hat has vanished.
The Americans who continue to wear
Il over here feel that they are not In
the picture and they soon discard It for
one OF felt, that is il they go into colors.
The black felt hat has few followers.
Lanvin has given the impetus to large
felt hats In pastel colors. She accentu-
yates meuve, banana yellow. fog gray
and old blue. These she trims with large
groups OF flowers.
Heboux,s Cola psiblc Hat.
Ecboux still uses satin, especially
when she makes hat for service, such
as the collapsible one i'll shining black
satin ribbon which thc Americans like.
She also continues the hat with broad.
draped crown shaped In front like RUS
sian headdress. and the wide brim dips
downward in front and rolls up on itself
I'm the back.
This unequar type OF brinn Is in fashion
everywhere. Even Ia the snailsheIi hats
OF Lanvin, which have created a sensa-
ton, the narrow brin ~ rolled tightly
up at the back.
In the Lanvin hats her entire iInagina-
ton Is placed upon decorating the front
which is like a pointed tiara worn well
down across the brow and jutting out
over the ears eighty, oh SO slightly, In
order to hold the thick dangling orna-
neuts like earrings made Of snail shells
and peals. The back OF the hat -
nothing. rt merely rolls itself into a
tiny piece across tho nape of the neck.
and the top Is like a folded skuilcaD OF
black eaun.
Tricorne Continues It's Coquctry.
Tho milliners have not discarded that
partly Napoleonic, wholly Venetian tri-
corne. Along with II Is the hat that
we In America call the Paul Jones. II
IL the formal shape worn BY admirals IN
the navy.
Tho French do not trim IL with gold
braid. They mako II OF Sslt or satin,
bind Il with narrow elk brsid ana place
q ribbon cochade at the SIDE.
This hat has elongated. fiat ends which
give breadth to the face. and the method
OF wearing II pushed well over tho eyes
keeps IL from being unattractive on O
woman's head. III II alps tlss least bit
back on the forehead IL becomes
srotesque.
The French women do not hesitate
to put Venetian lace veil. the two
inch kind that merely covers tho cyee.
on the front of this Paul Jones hat II
Is not good accessory for Il, although
the best milliners do not hesitate TO ad-
wise 1t as a method OF softcning the
elongated. straight line across tho eyes.
ff the hat is IN satin the veil Is not
badly placsd, but If tho hat Is In felt 1t
must be worn without this touch OF
italian coquetry.
Tho Russfan Dicornc Appears.
There Ia email tyrc OF this hat
which has no relation to Paul Jones or