The broad ax., 1921-04-16

on Conservative Lines and Which
Should Appeal as a Street Outfit.
when it Is circular 1t has the greatest
amount Of fullness used In Its making.
There are so many capes among
the spring wraps, and these are so
graceful, that they cannot be passed
by unnoticed. They are made In every
fashion, from the cape OF heavy home
spun to that Of the airiest and Funniest
Of taffetas for evening wear. The
cape coat has been forsaken In smart
dressmaking circles for the cape on
strictly cape lines, which sometimes
Is left severely plain, and again
embroidered or heavily trimmed In
some way. One of these is made Of
heavy black satin with Its lower edge
embroidered for some distance with
an arrangement Of gray angora wool
embroidery. 1t has a triple founced
collar that is In itself almost another
cape.
Taffeta dresses are very much In
favor for spring street wear. In fact.
they vie with those Of the canton
crepe. They have. usually, fuller
skirts, being made over lines that suit
their texture best.
There are bouffant types In the
Paris openings this spring. there are
flights in a directoire direction, there
are Spanish fiounces, but when all is
measured, asserts a fashion authority,
there remain the outstanding fact that
straight lines are still a dominant
Characteristic and that the silhouette
continues with slight dIvergences,
practically the same as II has been. OF
course, this Is not meant to convey
the impression that last years frocks
are good for this year. There Is that
subtle difference, slight though II may
appear upon the surface. that marks
one Of the newer gowns as distinctive
" new. There can be no doubt about
Il. II has its own marks Of novelty
and is above everything else a spring
1921 creation.
Each OF the cOuturiers In Paris. Il
would seem, has outdOne himself In
the creation OF gowns for this latest
season. The collections have been un-
usually large and the examples are
more vivid than was expected. And
the various types OF gowns. II may be
encouragingly reported, are thorough
" adaptable to the uses OF the Amer
lean woman.
Skirts Longer In Paris.
Skirts are longer In Paris-that one
point Is an established thing, but, Just
20 prove that there is never one rule
10 govern the French couturier, Jenny
has made all Of her frocks and suits
with skirts as short as ever they have |
been. To be sure. here are the youth |
full types, and, at any rate. those
among the American women who now
are rejoicing in very short skirts have |
Jenny 10 uphold their choice; they
can refer to her decision II their judg-
ment should hang In the balance.
PoIret, on the other hand, has
dropped his skirts to a point below
the ankles and ne is making them
as full as can be. with positive purs
out over the hiplIne. All Of the other
eOuturiers range between these two
levels; Cabot likes them shorter. and
some one else likes them longer, 50
there is at least a choice, and every
woman has the privilege OF choosing
the thing that becomes her best.
skirts are fuller, too. than they have
been. A few Of them are circular In
cut ard another few plated Even
the straight skirts that follow the line
Df the figure are allowed a little more
ro0mIness than they have had recent
y, though those for suits and street
1resses are kept fairly conservative
3 vfdth