Evening star., 1921-04-10

Well the contour has not changed.
1t has seemed as fixed for the last
three years as the war of the trenches
was between offensives The begin
ming and end of comment concerning
the new spring apparel is that dress
makers have not had the courage 10
insist upon a revolution.
So far. so good.
Yet. here is another outstanding
fact The French dressmakers nave
NOT abandoned the long skirt. 1t is
full. 1t is slender and draped. 1t is
TRANSPARENT 1t is opaque. 1t is built
for the afternoon. 1t is fashioned TOR
the evening. 1t has not appearf win
startling effect in street ciot 'es. III
Franc the dressmakers VIII: tolio"
the smart set are cutting thsir sIieee
skirts ten inches longer than they
were last summer.
II is not wise to discard these facts
II is not the part of sagsSity 10 re-
gard them as mere eNcr'1ceh'eS o''
the surface of fashion.
The French have method IN 'heiF
obstinaey They could hamH'ei "
fashion on an anvil with the strens I'll
and pertinacity of vulcan anu '"e
world accepts the finished product.
II seems to the reporter OF fashIoh
that this obstinacy in the choice VI
long skirt for the sprlne on 'IS Erdncs nc
of a few powerful factors IN FRANCE
who shape and determin, should De
accepted as significant
The American public rebels against
the idea of wearing such skirts as
have been produced by these French
me widths of hem as much as II does
the length. IL realizes ti4dt d 6a'h
cred skirt reaching 10 the ankles Is
ann 10 acceu,uaIe age. There IS no
ooubt. however, that the worlo mas
been treated 10 mockery OF age anu
has witnessed cruel indlsnatloh
neaped upon maturity through me
meulum OF no-Ienstn sklrts. his n
heeted shoes and painted races. ne
passionate desire 10 appear Souhs IL
often an insult to nature
Is IL not saner, wiser and klndel TO
attempt spiritual rather than physlcai
youth, and to look dlgnlhed IN iohs
skirt rather than grotesque IN d shor'
one? ~.
snan of life into three proper sec
tions and wear clothes behtting eacn,
never OVERRIDING youth or oVerooihs
age?
For whoever ScdI SiACS AoA ~
is a gracious compromise In clothes'
and in the finding of this compromise
and exploiting it there shines the
genius of the well-dressed woman.
The tendency of skirt generaiities
are better, however. for mldseason
than for the high apex of rush sea
son. Women want details today. Ihey
could gather up these details anu
choose between them later on. Inc
outstanding fact to q reporter. as l
said before, is the persistence OF the
long full skirt. Its fullness must De
orally accepted. but there is belief
among all those who deal with clothes
that long skirts for evening and
longer skirts for the street Will be
accepted without a murmur oe1ore
the spring leaves are dead Against
the lengthening of the skirt by some
dressmakers there is to be the OBJ
stinacy of maintaining the snort
skirt of other builders. This SHOWS
the same disparity in clothes that mas
existed since 1914. The evening skirt
which sweeps the ankle and is drawn
upward over the hips or hangs with
a fat panel effect is featured in
way that makes one gasp Modesty
allied to the indecorum Is the verdict.
One gown has a black silk foundation
cut like genuine chemise. rounded
upward at each side. leaving an open
ing that easily displays the knees. To
this is annexed a fiat ruffle of thin
lace. Over this is placed chemise
frock of jet lace and net. As the
manikin wears flesh colored slippers
and stockings. there is no attempt
whatever to disguise the brevity of
the black silk chemise. and yet the
skirt is long enough to reach the
ankles.
There is another gown. this one
by vionnet. This French designer. who
has become a feature of trade, has
, built a gown of Spanish yellow
crrce De chine, citron, which has the
green shades of an unripe lemon.
The bodice runs to points at the
shoulders and the skirt runs to
points which sweep the feet. All
the edges are deeply fringed. 1t has
points which fall together as the
wearer stands. swinging apart as the
wearer walks, and one sees yellow
stockings turning shapely knees.
They glimpse in and out. True. this
is oriental coquetry. In sharp con-
these frocks there are two gowns
by Worth which stabilize the long
skirt for evening. He names one of
these long-skirted gowns La Femme
la Rose" Those who have fol-
lowed the French plays know that
it's name was suggested by the play
OF the hour in Paris, .I'Homme a la
Rose" 1t is OF black lace. full-skirt-
ed wide over the hips, transparent
and faring over the ankles. The
lace bodice reaches to the collar
homes. then drops TO the decolletage
that reaches to the waist at the back.
The scarlet rose is at the side.
The other gown makes a strong ap-
peal TO Americans. 1t is OF dead
black crepe. the kind used for mourn
ing 1t is Roman in its severe
folds and the high severity of its
neckline. There are no sleeves. What
waist line there is is deaned above
the hips by drapery. The skirt
drifts in between the ankles in front.
The drapery is caught at one side
with white gardenias.
To one in the watch tower it looks
as though the American public were
going to repeat its usual action in
or France had standardized il. The
wearing of black has begun over here.
II is dead black. without the faintest
glamour Of luster. From the crown of
the head to the hem of the skirt the
sCmberness is not broken except by a
string of pearls or white ivory beads.
The stockings invariably give color to
the costume. They are gray. beige or
onion skin The slippers match or
they are Of black. The Americans run
10 gray or beige suede. The French
insist upon black patent leather or
f'"ct velvet Those who import
french clothes have brought over a
quantity of these dead black gowns
for morning. afternoon and evening
They vary them with gowns of black
lace
\ few Of the models which are to be
constantly repeated, Judging from
present orders. have simple bodices
ornamental skirts and string eirdle