davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Amarillo daily news. [volume] (Amarillo, Tex.) 19??-current, 1921-05-29
ELSIE FERGUSON GETS
COSTUMES FROM PARIS
DIRECT; GREAT GOWNS
Direct from Paris.

often one hears this said In regard
To the clothes worn by feminine players
In film productions. Aud often Is II the
case that the models thus referred TO
are elk months or more old.
Hut not 80 In the case of sacred
and profane Love" a William ID. Taylor
production for Paramount, In which III.
sis Ferguson plays the star role which
she created on the speaking stage.
direct from Paris" means direct
from the French capital TO Los An.
gcies In less than four weeks rs con.
Amarillo daily news. [volume] (Amarillo, Tex.) 19??-current, 1921-05-29

About once In every two rrd one.
half years there are two full monons
In one month.
Amarillo daily news. [volume] (Amarillo, Tex.) 19??-current, 1921-05-29

In Tahiti persons are punished tor
serious crimes by tatccinr q mara On
their forchcads.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
Y. M. C. A. Starts
Campaign forFund
At Green mic h
Miss Marian Craig CAPTAIN Of
One Of the TeamS--NOtes
From Resort.

Special Despatch 10 The NEW York HERALD
GREENWICH, Conn, Oct. S.--Members
Of the Young Womens Christian Asso-
citation here have started campaign TO
raise s9,100 The captains of the ten
teams are Miss Marian Craig, Mrs. l..
c. Leonard, Miss Dorothy Grierson. Miss
Marion Sprague. Miss Ethel Hays. Miss
Florence Sutton, Mrs. e. G. Wills, Mrs.
@. c. ST. John and Mrs. w. B. Sewell.
Mrs. Charles II. Carter Is treasurer. Mr..
Albert w Whitaker of New York, who
was overseas with the Seventy-eighth
Division and was gassed and severely
wounded. has presented some photo
graphs OF the "Y'' to the cause, from
which a goodly sum has been realized
The committee selected for the d. A.
r. card party to be held on October
IL in the ballroom of the Greenwich
Country Club, Is composed of Miss Jen-
ME e. Kent, chairman: Mrs. Elon II.
Hooker. Mrs. Helen Adams Kelley. Miss
Susan H Mead and Mrs. I. N. Lewis
Tea will be served and members are to
contribute odd pieces OF jewelry and
other trinkets, which will be on display
mt a separate table.
Mrs. Donald Mackenzie OF Otter Rock
Drive was the hostess yesterday after
noon at the opening autumn meeting of
the Greenwich Travel Club, at which
Mrs. Edward NJ. Barlow gave a talk on
Friendship"
The Indian Harbor Yacht Club closed
for the season last Sunday night The
final dinner and dance was held on
Saturday night. Among those enter
tanning friends at dinner were Mr.. A. G.
Hanan. Col. r. B. Baker. Commodore
Douglas Graham .Smyth. DR.. Samuel
Cant. Messrs H. r. Green, Gordon
Grand ~ TT uy,r IT
Bowes. F. II. Colloday, r. B. NJ. Cook,
Z. s. Doremus. T. B. Fielder. w. E. Hall.
n. f. Thompson. E. l.. Rossiter, c. r
sherlock, w. M. Stevens, Robert Law.
j., s. c. Mead. w. d. Miller. A. T..
Mitchell. Fl. r. Montgomery r. c. Mum
son. L. b Price, J. T. Quinn, ]. G..
White. Spencer Young, K B. Van
Hiper F. w. Whitson, Richard Outwat ter
and G. A. winson.
Miss Mary Adams. Miss Mildred
Schwarz and Miss Elizabeth Vincent
VIII enter their Junior year at Bryn
Mawr College on Octber Is. Miss Eliza
beth Henderson also returns to the same
college for her sophomore year.
Mrs. z. Llewellyn Bull of Mead.s
FONT will sail aboard the Olympic Oc-
tooer 10 to spend some months on the
Continent.
Mr.. and Mrs. Hermann PAUL.. who
Tor many years have lived in Green
wich. have been abroad nearly a year.
Lhey VIII return to America early in
november and viii make their home in
New York during the winter.
Mr. and Mrs. John Alfred Renahan
will celebrate the twentyfifth anri-
versary of their marriage on Ty,ursday
October 20. t
mrs. Colby M. Chester. Jr., gave a
pirtnday dinner party for her daughter
Miss Mary Chester. at the Field c,l,b
on Wednesday afternoon.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

Costumes designed and sketchcd
by Paul Poiret. Above on left, su-
perb coat of black velvet with square
sleeves and sides on red satin em.
broidered with gold threads. Gray
fox trims il; there are two orna-
mental buttons at the waist.
Second, afternoon gown of deep
kings blue velvet and black velvet,
The former is in the straight bodice,
the latter in skirt and sleeves, both
wide. Silver ornaments are at waist,
and straps of silver ribbons weight
ed with tassels hang at intervals to
hem.
Third, pictorial fabric, showing
small warriors on horseback, built
into a Russian gown after the fash
ion Of an ancient skating costume.
IL is worn in Venice by an English
woman. The color is French blue;
there is no trimming but wide bands
of gray fox.
Below, sumptuous Venetian gown
of Capucine red satin covered with
gold tracery, the sides and arm
drapery of black velvet. The entire
gown is built from two straight
pieces of fabrc which pass between
the feet. Designed and sketched
by Paul Poiret.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

terial sweeping over the ankles. II u
not possible to make Eugene skirts or
their limitations and notifications with
velvet or brocade. for their every move
ment must be light and fragile These
fabrics are kept for tho Oriental ana
Pussian skirts which persist, the latter
being especially in power through the
acceptance OF the wide soft skirt by
forceful designers.
Not that the Oriental movement Is
In allegiance or yields its place OF pres
tige to the prettiness OF the second
Empire or the mystery and power Of
the Russian idea. One sees too much
of It everywhere to ignore II, but II has
been chranged in large measure from
what II once was.
Paul Poiret probably keeps away
from It more than the others In HIS coll
lection, which is strange, for he has
been Influenced by Morocco and Persia
for many years. His present collection.
which Is wonderful for its color and
fabrics, Is part Russian OF the Boyard
epoch, and part Venice under the
Doges. He calls one of his most sue
cessfuI frocks THE Boyard." and he has
made a Russian skating gown for a
beautiful woman who Is partly Russian.
Naturally, she does not skate In II she
has taken 1t to Venice for the season,
where she Is probably feeding the pig
cons In 1t.
This gown Is old blue silk with a
ceremonial quality In its weave. its sur
face covered with tiny warriors In va
rted colors fitting lances. So small are
the figures that one must look well to
discover the pictorial value of the fab
ric, unlike the Callot fabrics and those
Of Worth, which have big Chinese drag
ons, pagodas bridges and other signs
and symbols OF the Pacific countries.
1t would have been foolish for Poiret to
attempt to manipulate this fabric into
drapery or to ornament II. He makes
of 1t wide. wide skirt, straight
blouse. large sleeves, and touches the
edges with gray fox. OF course q Rus
sian hat goes with It.
In opposition to this he builds a venc-
tian gown OF Capucine red satin covered
with fine gold thread tracery which
hangs in q straight line from neck TO
toes passes between the feet, goes well
out on the floor as a train. where II is
Joined by two straight widths Of black
velvet that go over the arms. That's all
there is to this sumptuous frock You,
the reader. probably say that Is quite
enough, for you don't understand 1t as Il
is. So much for the complexity Of sim
plicity.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

she deals with gown that should be
called the American eagle. Its trans
parent tulle skirt built from yards OF
material In differing lengths. some
touching the floor. Is of the dull green
of mountain fir trees. The bodice,
straight as a tree. reaches to the hips
and Is of the fabric pulled around the
body over a supple lining; the slender
shoulder straps are of dull silver rib
bon. At the lower edge of this bodice
are embroidereds eagles in full fight.
wings stretched 70 their pointed lengths (:
this is done in black and gray. At tho
back. where the straight bodice joins
the wide skirt, there Is fantastic ar
rangement Of eagle quilts fattened
against the body.
Callot uses this f1r green tulle for
evening gowns and touches 1t with black
MORE ribbon. with silver It Is espe-
cially lovely for evening and grateful
change from the blacks and brocades
that have Allied the past season
All the varieties of silk net and what
is called "tulle" over here are strong
rivals to velvets and brocades, you must
realize. because of the strength of the
long skirt built of several layers OF ma
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
Notable Weddings
and Engagements


was educated In Germany. where she
passed several years with her uncle. the
late William Webster, who was the
American Consul at Frankfort. She is
niece by marriage OF the late Gen.
Benjamin f. Butler. and after returning
from Germany passed several years In
Washington d. c.. with her cousin. Mrs.
Adelbert Ames. who was Miss Blanche
Butler. only daughter OF the late GEN
eral and Mrs. Butler. and one of the
great beauties of her day. Lieut.. Dunn's
father. the late Lanier Dunn. was for
many years Identified with Hot Springs,
Va. where he had a cottage.
The chantry Of st. Thomas's Church
will be the scene of the wedding on Sat-
urday Of Miss Mary Tomlinson. daugh-
ter Of Mrs. Avia Allen Tomlinson of No.
Lexington avenue, to Mr.. Hillary Her
bert Micou of Detroit. Mich. son of Mr.
and Mrs. Benjamin Micou of Washing
ton. d. c.. Miss Margaret Tomlinson will
be her sisters only attendant, and Mr..
Benjamin Micou. Jr.. will serve his
brother as best man. The ceremony will
be followed by small reception at the
Hotel Plaza. Mr.. Micou Is grandson
Of the late Hilary Herbert, Secretary OF
the Navy in tho Cabinet OF President
Grover Cleveland.
On the same day Miss Helen Culver
Kerr, daughter of Mr.. and Mrs. John
Clapperton Kerr Of this city, will become
the bride of Mr.. Ernest Greene. Jr son
of Mr.. and Mrs. Ernest Greene OF Clap
board Hill Farm. New Canaan, Conn.
The wedding will take place at the cour-
try home Of Mr.. and Mrs. Kerr in New
Canaan.
Mr.. and Mrs. Edward Caldwell of 601
West 1f0th street have sent out invita-
tions for the marriage Of their daughter.
Miss Frances Olivia Caldwell, to Mr..
John Walter Strauss The wedding will
take place on Saturday evening. October
80, In the North Presbyterian Church.
155th street near Broadway. A recep-
ton will be, held at the Hotel St. Regis
Mr. and Mrs Ernest Brennan Boyd
have sent out invitations for the mar
riage of their daughter. Miss Anne Hold
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

day afternoon. Mrs. Frederick l.. waka-
man will be chairman of the day. The
uuties or each officer and the uualifica-
tions OF the Republican candidates viii
De given by Mrs. II. ]. Hanford. tbe
qualitications OF the candidates chosen
oy the Democrats by Greta Wright.
MISS Sally Peters, leader OF the League
OF Woman Voters. will speak
Mrs. William Pitt Trimb,e ha. ~
turned to her New York home after
spending the summer on her Western
place. Trimble Island. in Puget Sound,
near seattle, Wash. She is the presi-
dent OF the Washington State Associa-
tion OF New York city, which she organ
izeo at the beginning of the war. How
ever. last winter a great number OF
prominent Seattle people were winterIng
mere and It was then decided to have the
organization more for society and one of
tne functions given was a tea for Mrs.
Douglas Robinson. The first meeting of
the association for the year will be held
the third week In October and then the
programme for the winter will be ar
ranged. The first event probably will
Do a dinner at the Colony Club.
Mrs. Thomas Slack. president OF the
Legislative League of New York. was
hostess to the board officers of the or
sanitation. giving an afternoon tea In
their honor at her home. 400 Manhattan
avenue, last Wednesday. Among those
present were Mrs. J. Hedges Croweli
first vice-president: Mrs. Elizabeth Aus
TN Tuttle. second vice-president: Mrs.
william @. Demorest, Mrs. Ella o. Gull
FORD, Mn Frank NJ. Bradner, Mrs. WILL
lam u. Hale. Mrs II. Matthew, Mrs. 8.
T Prescott and Mrs. John Joseph Mac
Donald.
The league holds its meetings each
month on the first Thursday at the AS
Tor The object of the league IL to dis
cuss and study the political, legal. Indus
trial and social questions OF the day.
Authors Night" will be held by the
University Forum OF America Tuesday
evening at the headquarters of the club
at 2o3 West Ninety-third street.
Don Marquis donald Robert Perry
MacMaruuis). editor OF the sun Dial''
column In THE SUN. wsiI be the guest OF
honor OF the evening and will speak on
columbus. America and the Anglo
SAXON" Or. Alexander Cumming will
preside and Miss Maud Zella Herricls
will be the hostess After a reception
there will be dancing.
The women's Club OF New Rochelle
VIII open Its musical season on next
Tuesday afternoon, October IS, when
Miss Juliette Arnold will give a piano
recital
The woman's Republican Club, Mrs.
James G. Wentz, president and founder,
Will hold reception at the Plaza on
be Major and Mrs. Henry III. Curran
Mr.. ami Mrs. Charles c. Lockwood, Mr.
Vincent Gilroy, Mrs. Sarah c. Cilroy
and Miss Helen varick Boswell
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
Girls Clubs League
Opens Clothes Shop

Tho National League OF Girls Clubs,
an organization of about 5000 working
women associated In evening recrea-
tional clubs, is In business. 1t hopes
through the success of the Clothes Tree
ghop. opened last March at ga Madison
avvnue. TO be able to maintain Its bud
get and carry on the promotion OF the
idea Of the self-supporung. non-sccta-
rfan and self-governing type OF working
women's club throughout the country
The shop held fall fashion show at
the home OF Mrs Bernard II. PoIiak. 20
East Sevcnty-seventh street. last Thurs
day. when girls OF society acted as mod
els TO demonstrate the latest French
fashions which have been brought over
for the SHOP
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

ing Boyd to Mr.. Alonzo Minor West. Jr.
1t will TAX place Saturday evening at
the home OF Mr.. and Mrs. Boyd. 800
West End avenue. Mr.. West and his
bride will ma o their home in New Or
leans.
An out OF town wedding on Saturday
which will be attended by many from New
York will be that OF Miss Letitia Mills.
daughter Of Mr.. and Mrs. w. IL Mills Of
Sound Beach, Conn.,, to Mr.. Oliver Sand
reuter-. son of Mr.. and Mrs. Edward
Sandreuter. 1t will take place at the
home of the brides parents in Edsewater
Park, the Rev. DR.. Lewis N. Be, ney.
pastor Of the First Congregational
Church, officiating. Miss Ida Evans OF
New Rochelle will be the maid or honor
and Miss Winlfred Collins and Miss
Gladys williams the bridesmaids. Mr..
Stuart Sandreuter will be best man for
his brother.
In the Church Of st. Ignatius Loyola
on October 10 Miss Marjorie Sands Pyne.
daughter of Mr.. James A. Pyne OF 1891
Madison avenue, will become the bride
of Municipal Court Justice Frank j..
Coleman. Jr. The Rev. Father Spillane
will officiate.
The Rev. Dr. and Mrs. William s.
Dawson have sent out invitations for the
marriage OF their daughter, Miss Ethel
Dawson. to Mr.. Robert Champion DEM
ing. which will take place In Grace
Methodist Church. Brooklyn. on October
81 Miss Dawson is a graduate of Smith
College. Mr.. Deming. who is the son
of the late Clarence Deming. editor and
writer, was graduated from Yale in 1911.
AT present he is State Director OF
Americanization Of Connecticut.
Mr. and Mrs. Robert William Cum
ming have sent out invitations for the
marriage OF their daughter. Miss Eliza
bteh Aitken Millar Cumming. to Mr..
Irvine Riker. son of Mrs. Anderson Ri
ker of Newark, N. j. The wedding will
take place in Trinity Cathedral, New
ark, on October e. A reception will be
held at the home of Mr.. and Mrs. Cum
ming. 249 Ballantine Parkway. Newark.
DR.. and Mrs. r. G. Hutchinson. Jr.
of Montclair. N. j., have announced the
engagement Of their daughter. Miss
Katharine Agnes Hutchinson. to Mr..
George F. Miller. foster son OF Mr. and
Mrs. Andrew ]. Edgar
Formal announcement has been made
by Mrs. Harriet r. Johnston of Sutton
Manor. New Rochelle. OF the engage
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

I'D sharply In the front, curved In a
wide scallop at the top and diminishing
TO small roll at back. II fits well
down on the head, merely showing tenn
pie locks OF the hair. The house rarely
departs from this type OF head covering.
The alternate is the spreading Winter
halter shape OF colored felt, oh. so softly
colored in mauve or gray, without
plumage. These hats are offered as
suitable companions to the Eugene
frocks, which are called after Winter
halter by both Poiret and Lanvin, Poiret
having made n brilliant picture of
them in his open air theatre, called
"I,Oasis"
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

DR.. and Mrs. r. G. Hutchinson. Jr.
of Montclair. N. j., have announced the
engagement Of their daughter. Miss
Katharine Agnes Hutchinson. to Mr..
George F. Miller. foster son OF Mr. and
Mrs. Andrew J. Edgar.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

Mr.. and Mrs. Wallace Arthur Cook.
when they return from their honey
moon, will live at A West Twelfth
street Their wedding was celebrated
on october in Grace Church. and was
followed by reception at the home
of the brides brother Mr.. William B.
Given, Jr., 101 East Seventy-fourtn
street. Mrs. Cook was Miss Susan
Emily Given daughter of Mr.. and Mrs.
william b. Given of Columbia, Pa.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
HIP Bands of Pony skin.

To go back to the shells they are
interviewer with enough embroidery TO
keep them from neaviness and they are
placed against q black velvet bat for
Lanvin uses an astonishing amount OF
velvet, not only In headgenr. but In
gowns and suits. The majority OF her
street suits are In black or dark VEL
vet the hip length Jackets held In tightly
TO the figure by wide band OF fur.
the ragged kind that gives somewhat
the effect OF fringe at the lower edge.
AS she. like Poiret and Callot admires
the fur called gazelle. much of II is
on these velvet clothes. Cheruit adj
mires pony, 30 does Callot and this
soft shining fur is on coats and wraps.
also turned into superb cuffs that are
quite too grand for the name, borrowed
as they are from the days Of DArtag-
nan and Charles the Second.
with broad hipband OF glistening
pony and n peasant mat covered with
slstening shells. the woman dressed by
Tanvin suggests something medi@val,
something fcrceful, far away from Win
terhalter and his prettiness
CherIt also dips into power when
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

Formal announcement has been made
by Mrs. Harriet r. Johnston of Sutton
Manor. New Rochelle. OF the engage
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
-"GetS=It
The Corn
and CalIuS
Peeler
This Corn Remover Is Guaranteed

RELIEF from corn suffering follows the
application of ''Gets-It" almost as quickly
as pain follows the thrust of a pin or
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

Mr.. and Mrs. Adolph HUM OF 80 Ster-
ling place. Brooklyn. announce the en-
gagement of their daughter, Miss Con-
stance HUM, to Mr.. Ralph Stanley Ha-
ley. son Of Mr. and Mrs. Reuben Haley
OF Pittsburgh. Pa.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

ing Boyd to Mr.. Alonzo Minor West. Jr.
1t will TAX place Saturday evening at
the home OF Mr.. and Mrs. Boyd. 800
West End avenue. Mr.. West and his
bride will ma o their home in New Or
leans.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09
Trousers as Substitute for I'm
derskirts Beneath Evening
Gowns Advocated.
BY ANN RITTENHoUsE.

Special Correspondence to THE NEW YoR
HERALD.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

ment OF her daughter Miss Salons
Johnston. to Mr. Richard William Tier
ney. Jr.. of Fall River. Mass.
Mr. and Mrs. George Fl. Kent OF 1a
West Fffty-eighth street have an
nounced the engagement Of their, daugh-
ter. Miss Emily Kent. to Mr.. Washing-
ton Platt, son of Mr.. and Mrs. Walter
Oscar Piatt of Baltimore. Md. Miss
Kent was graduated from Wellesley
years ago.
The New York herald., 1921-10-09

IN OIRET urges sleeves to the floor;
- Lanvin insists that hats with
New-York tribune., 1921-12-14
Terra Gotta Men Heard
In Pleas for Clemenc,
Open-Price Plan Of Ciuing In
formation on Bids Defend
ed as Hid to Small Firms

Judge Learned Hand heard further
argument in the Federal District Court
yesterday on which he will determine
the severity of the judgment which he
is to pronounce upon the seventeen
members of the architectural terra
Gotta combine who pleaded guilty. Mon
day to one count of an Indictment
charging violation of the Sherman anti
trust law. The case will be resumed at
10:30 this morning. 1t Is expected the
argument will be concluded during the
day.
The defense yesterday was conducted
chiefly by Henry l.. Stimson, formerly
Secretary of War, and Henry A. Wise,
formerly United States Attorney.
While they admitted that the open
price plan Of giving information on
all bids to other members Of the COM
bine had been adopted and also con-
ceded that each concern had been
allotted definite proportion of the
total business, they urged that the
former practice had been officially in
dorsed as an aid to accurate estimating
Of costs and that the latter had been
followed to carry small corporations
through the war. Mr.. Wise, in an
effort to show that architectural terra
Gotta is a non-essential In the building
trades, offered statistics giving the
total Capitalization of the industry as
$5,5OO000 and the total sales for 1918
as 7,40O tons.
The charge that the open-price plan
and the apportionment Of business had
been used to establish an exorbitant
price scale was made by the Federal
prosecutors. Colonel William Hayward
and his chief assistant for the building
trades investigation, David L. Podell.
New-York tribune., 1921-12-14
Untermyer
Has Building
Strike Curb
Trades Council are the bricklaye
painters and plasterers,
Continued from pauo onc)

Trades Council arc the bricklayers,
painters and plasterers.
On May /, 1920, tAc employers added
81 81 day to the wages Of the workers,
although there was a wage agreement
in force to run to December 81, 1921.
The. details of the controversy and
Mr.. Untermyer's suggestion appear
from the questioning of Mr.. Norman by
Mr.. Untermycr, as follows:
Q.--Now, what is the present contro-
versy as to whether that dollar should
be taken off, now that the cost Of liv-
ing has declined, or whether they
should be a complete readjustment
National Conditions Searched
A.--The proposal is that the employ
ers' association has five committees
which are endcavoring to find out ex-
actly what the conditions are through
out the country, throughout the city
and throughout kindred industries;
also as to what the prospect is for 1929
for business. Those committees will
report to the board of governors at
the board Of governors will, If not to-
morrow the day following, if necessary,
determine the policy as to the terms
on which they will make new agree
ments.
Q.-Now, the question at issue is as
to this dollar more, this dollar differ
ence. A.-Thcre are many questions,
many of these trade abuses.
Q.-That is one Of the questions? A..
Yes, sir.
Q.-You wanted this dollar that was
given temporarily to be abrogated
Ayes, sir.
Q.-There is only a little time be-
tween now and January 1, and the
whole thing has to be decided within
the next few weeks. Isn't it possible
II am speaking in the interest of
the .aadjustment Of this situation
state - isn't it possible to enter
into some arrangement, Mr.. Norman,
temporary arrangement, based upon
increased efficiency of labor, whereby if
the efficiency is increased, the present
wage will be continued, some such sug-
gestion as this, if you please: That
you, under the contract, beginning
January 1, shall provide that for sixty
days you will continue to pay this in
creased wage, provided in such trades
as will name an arbitrator and the
Employers Association an arbitrator
the third to be named by the two, to
that particular line for that sixty days
and to base the future wage upon in
creased deficiency during that time?
A.-That is matter that would have
to be decided by the board of gov
ernOrs.
Importance of Efficiency
Q.--Efficiency is more important than
reduction, isn't it? If you could get
25 per cent increased efficiency wouldn't
you rather have that than reduction in
wages?
Ayes, sir.
After toe recounting of numerous In
stances of alleged domination prac-
ticed by the plasterers' organization
Assemblyman McWhinney asked Mi
chaeI B. Gallagher, secretary of the
plasterers' organization. if he "be-
lieved that the laws of the State of
New York should permit any labor or
ganization to work under constitu-
tion that will force a builder to tear
down work that is accepted by the