Saint Mary's beacon. [volume] (Leonard Town, Md.) 1867-1983, 1921-12-01


quarter tailored coats are slit at the
sides from the bottom, so that the ends
have II trifle Of give" TO them, not be
ing keyed TO the line of the figure so
unreIentingIy. A tailored suit of this
variety was made with bindings Of Its
own material. which material was
hrnadCloth. ny the way. and these
were cut almost an inch In width.
These were laid on as fatty as could
be- around every conceivable edge
and stitched closely on either side
The color of the suit was dusty
tnupe and the stitched edEings made
Il yood-loOliing finish.
Have Low-cut Revers.
Most of these strictly tailored suits
have low-cut revers. so that the clos
ings Of the coat come just above the
waistlines. Then. this opening leaves
room for the whitest and daintiest of
French blOuSes. the latter being the
touch without which the suit remains
as nothing worthy of notice.
As for materials In the tailored suits,
well. there are twills ard serges that
forever Will be eminently satisfactory
in this connection, and there are some
soft. fine duvetyns and wool velours.
Suits with more or less of trimIaing
come to us from the French designers,
and. with n certain type OF woman,
are generally appreciated and worn in
this country. Most Of these, this sea-
son. are made with the longer waists
and with slightly bloused effects at
| the waistlines. Then the embroidery
is used for n wide or a narrow band
around the bottom of the peplum, for
the cuffs, for the collar, and some
times Tor band TO run along the line
where the closing of the coat Is effect
I'd. One of these from Paris was
made in that darkest Of brown shades,
which the French are pushing this
season. 1t was then trimmed with
masses Of silk embroidery in a slight
ly lighter shade Of the same color, and
the trimming was concentrated over
the hips In large triangular sections
grouped of smaller triangular figures.
This was all the trimming there was
about the suit, for the cuffs Of the
rather loose sleeves were left plain,
as was also the collar. which but
toned tightly around the throat.
The Russian influence pushes its way
into the suit category more success
fully than II manages to do In 9TH
er types of costumes. The long waist-
ed blouse. the thick girdle, the straight
bands of fur and the brilliant colors
lend themselves to the designing Of
the suit with admirable facility.
Peacock Green Duvetyn.
4 Russian blouse suit was made Of
peacock green duvetyn with n very
thick and heavy surface. The bloused
section of the coat was long enough to
completely cover the hips, and under
meath that was a straight sort OF pep
lum Of the width Of only about five
or six inches. There was twisted
girdle of heavy silk threads with the
longest imaginable tassels ending II.
And there were collars and wide cuffs
Of krimmer in very dark gray shade.
Another suit of this same character
and general line Of cut In n deep rust
shade had for trimming an arrange
ment Of heavy, Loose knots Of dark
gray wool that were massed together
quite evenly until they took on a sur
priSing look Of krimmer or some other
lambs wool fur.
Fur. indeed. Is used for trimming
many of the winter suits. but the fact
If the matter is that In most cases
it Is very sparingly used. There
are straight, chOker collars and the
smallest of cuffs, and only seldom Is
there band OF fur seen around the
bottom of the peplum. And the furs
are mostly Of the short haired vari-
ETY., for the rule seems TO be that,
"hcn one wants fox or sable, then
the animal Itself must be brought into
The limeliEtt and fetched as the piece
de resistance of the street costume