davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
No More the CHIFFON wrap.

Once upon time a mother permitted
a girl TO gamble with pneumonia by
going 70 evening parties in butterfly
wrap. IL consisted of two layers of
chiffon over taffeta and reached to the
knees. Not so this winter. War arctic
temperatures and influenza have taught
us to be more careful and more COM
Portable.
This winter ushers in long, capacious
wraps OF fur. Of fur fabrics, OF velvet
and OF duvetine. The white fabric fur
IL admirable for the slender purse It is
more scrviceable fabric than velvet.
II does not spot in the rain and snow.
White velvet, when used, Is trimmed
with white fur and white immense gold
or silver tsssels. The lining may take
sunset for its model. The gsyer, the
better
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

On the Left--Black taffeta with
blouse of narrow silk lace-long
gauntlets made of black taffeta hn-
ished with narrow ,ruching to match
the jacket and give the effect of
being made in one with the sleeve.
This is by Jenny.
CONGRATULATIONS ct Madeleine.
Tan cloth frock trimmed with en-
broidered net. Brown tulIe forms
the solar hanging in ends at the
side, one end embroidered.
Right-Model by Premet of
brown taffeta with long sleeves and
back and bodice of brown embroid-
cred net.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
Americans, However, Fear
Skirts TO Ankles Will Ac-
centuate Age.
ny ANNE RITTENHousE.

~ LOTHES have subtly changed,
yet it is easy TO say that the
contour Of clothes has not
changed. This statement finds com
plicated explanation.
Well. the contour has not changed
it has seemed as fixed for the last
three years as the war OF the trenches
was between offensives The begin
ming and end of comment concerning
the new spring apparel is that dress
makers have not had the courage 10
insist upon a revolution.
So far, so good.
Yet here is another outstanding fact.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
Disparity I'm Clothes.

Against tie lengthening OF the skirt by
some dressmakers there IL TO be the OBJ
Etinacy OF maintaining the short skirt
or other builders This shows the same
disparity In clothes that has existed since
1914. The evening skirt which sweeps
the ankle and Is drawn upward over the
hips or hangs with a fiat panel effect Is
featured In a way that makes one gasp.
Modesty allied TO indecorum is the
verdict One gown has black silk foun-
dalton cut like a genuine chemise,
rounded upward at each side. leaving an
opening that easily displays the knees.
10 this Is annexed a fiat ruffe OF thin
rrce. Over this Is placed a chemise
frock OF Jet lace and net As the manni-
kin wears flesh coored slippers and
stockings there is no attempt whatever
10 disguise tho brevity OF the black silk
chemise. and yet the skirt is long enough
10 reach the ankles.
There is another gown. this one by
vionnet. This French designer. who has
become feature Of trade. has built a
gown OF Spanish yellow crepe de
Chine. which has the great shades Of
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

pinal. Mr. Lund is son OF Mr.. and
Mrs. Harry A. Lund
Miss Elizabeth Dean and Mr.. Stephen
Austin Van Ness of this city and Nash
Vile, Tenn, whose engagement was an
nounced last week. will be married in
October Miss Dean is daughter OF
Mr. and Mrs. George Cooper Dean OF
Lawrence Park, Bronxville, y. Y. She
attended the school at Rosemary Hall,
Greenwich, Conn. and the Bennett
School at Millbrook, n. \. She Is
sister of Miss May Louise Dean. whose
engagement 20 Mr.. John NJ Gates,
student at Yale, was announced recent
". Mr.. Van Ness was graduated from
the Vanderbilt University at Nashville
and Is a lawyer associated with the firm
of Cravath, Henderson. Leffingwell &
De Gersdorff.
Miss Mary Mason Heath of Washing
ton, who has an apartment at 10 East
Fortieth street for the season, has an
nounced the engagement OF her niece,
Miss Elizabeth Mason Heath, to Mr..
Van wyck Wickes Loomis
Formal announcement has been made
of the Engagement Of Miss Mary Reber.
daughter OF MT. anu his. JaAieS -.
Reber of Reading, Pa. to Mr. Myron G.
Darby of this city. He was graduated
from the University Of Pennsylvania in
1911 and three years later from Har-
ward He is member of the banking
firm OF Eldredge 6 Co. of New York
and Boston.
Mrs. James Hart of $40 Central Park
West has announced the engagement Of
her sister, Miss Eleanor O'Reilly, to Mr..
Paul w. A. MacMahon of Montclair,
n. j.
Miss Adele Essers. daughter of Mr..
and Mrs. Edward Essers of Clifton
Terrace. Weehawken, y. j.. was mar
ried to Mr.. John wilkins son of Mr..
and Mrs. Frederick Wilkins. on Wednes-
day evening In the rose room OF tho
Hotel Astor. The Rev. DR.. Arthur
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

Schmoyer OF Weehawken officiated- Miss
Clara Essers wRs her sisters maid OF
honor. The Misses Elsa Mustermann
and Gladys Crippen were bridesmaids.
Mr.. Frank BONN was the best man. A
reception, dinner and dance followed
the ceremony.
Mrs William Franklin Crane OF New
York and Kennebunk has announced the
marriage of her daughter. Miss Ardath
Monte Crane, to Mr.. Clifford Warren
Smith of New York on Tuesday, March
20.
Mr.. and Mrs. George Chittenden Tur-
ner when they return from their honey
moon will live at 452 Riverside Drive.
Their wedding took place on March 81
in the Marble Collegiate Church, the
Rev DIR. David James Burrell officiating.
Mrs. Turner was Mrs. Madeleine Brett
OF Neuchatel. Switzerland. She Is
daughter of one OF the oldest French
Swiss families and twin sister of Nine.
James de Rutte of Paris. France. Mr..
Turner, who Is well known composer
and librettist. is the son of the late
George Turner. He was graduated from
Columbia University in 1904
Capt. Clinton Rush Boone. ". S. A.,
and Mrs. Boone when they return from
their wedding trip, will live at 36 Pierre
pont street. Brooklyn. Their wedding
was celebrated on March 20 in Christ
Church. Ridgewood. n. J. She was Miss
Dorothy CowperthwAft. daughter of Mr..
and Mrs. Frederick S. Cowperthwait.
Capt Boone is the son of Mr. and Mrs.
Henry Clinton Boone of Macon. Ga.
Mrs. John Hudson Storer and Miss
Florence Storer of 39 Edgecombe avenue
will sail for Italy early in May. to be
absent several months DR.. Storer will
join them later in the season.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

will run in symmetrical formation.
They are not haphazard.
The American looks a bit askance
at a generous use of organdie We
know the heat OF our summers. We
know the price of our laundries. We
say OF organde as one of Mrs. Cragie's
heroes said OF bridge, Life had i'm
posed enough problems on him without
bridge"
The novel way in which the new
spring gowns employ organdie is to put
il as godets in q dark cloth skirt.
Surely this is an extravagant method
of using the fabric. But the dress
makers say 1t gives little trouble.
There Is one frock of dark blue twill in
the skirt of which fulness is obtained
by godets of kings blue organdie COW
cred with fine design OF black SOU
tache. This Is repeated at the neck and
sleeves.
There is another costume which con-
sists Of a redingote of dark blue cloth
trimmed on each side with applications
of black taffeta. Beneath 1t is an en-
tire frock OF white organdie also COW
cred with the scrolls of taffeta. You
must admit that this Is a curious gown
Those who are insisting upon figured
fabrics wonder why 1t Is that the dress
makers have taken up plain fabrics and
put their own figurations upon them
with infinite labor. Embroidery Is
second class fashion. but fringe, soutach-
ing, scrolls of applied fabric and round
paillettes in net, silk or chiffon dominate
spring frocks.
Renee uses a kind OF leaf. the mate
rial cire on one side, which curls over on
itself and is used with the generosity OF
the leaves of Vallombrosa.
When Renee gets tired Of her pail
lettes which she uses in colors in black
and white, in straight formations. Just
as she used chenille dots in 1918, she
uses bands and rosettes of these tightly
curled petals. They have no lustre on
one side and high lustre on the other.
1t Is a wonderful season for the hand
worker who likes to dabble In other
forms OF needlework than embroidery.
They should have national mint to
turn out the paillettes for the season.
Some extravagant person will take to
sewing nickels on her gowns.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
Continued from First Page.

During the war Miss Cobb served with
the Motor Corps of America. Mr.. Foot
was in the French army and later served
as Lieutenant In the United States
Air Service
Mr.. and Mrs. Samuel S. Viets OF
Springfield. Mass, have announced the
engagement OF their daughter. Miss
Marian Gertrude Viets, to Mr.. Howard
Eugene Rainey of 134 West Eightieth
street. Miss Viets was graduated from
Mount Holyolle in 1919 Mr.. Raincy,
who is the son OF Mr.. and Mrs. S. Mitch
ell Rainey of Hudson, y. ". was In the
ambulance service overseas. both in
France and Italy.
Mr.. and Mrs. Charles Austin Dali of
1919 Madison avenue have announced
the engagement Of their daughter. Miss
Mary Austin Dali, to Mr.. Richard Ira
pier Bell, son of Capt. and Mrs. Gervais
r. Bell of Louisiana. He served as an
officer in the army during the war and
since his discharge has been the direc-
tor of the service division of the Amer
lean Legion for the State OF New York.
Miss Dali is a granddaughter of the
late Mr. and Mrs. Austin Dali of Balti-
more.
Mrs. Charles Louis Leisen of ASS Riv-
erside Drive has announced the engage
ment of her only daughter. Miss Z.
Frances Leisen, to Mr.. Carl J. Herkert
He was graduated from Columbia Law
School and Is practising law in this city
He served in the navy during the war
Miss Leisen plans to sail for Europe on
May 3 on board the Aquitania. She will
remain abroad several months. The
wedding will take place in the autumn.
Formal announcement has been made
of the engagement of Miss Harriet
Barnes Aspinall daughter of Mrs.
Frances l.. Aspinall of 76S Greene ave-
nue., Brooklyn. to Mr.. Charles Edwin
Lund Miss Aspinall is niece of one
time Supreme Court Justice Joseph AS
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

Starkey. Mrs. Joseph Glennon, Mrs. C..
Bruins. Miss Mary Meehan, Miss Eliza.
beth Welty and Miss Gertrude Rehill
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
DINNER TO ITALIAN ENVOY.

More than $50 reservations have been
made for the dinner for the Italian
Ambassador Senator yittorio Ro-
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
Apt TO Accentuatc. A

The American public rebels against
the idea OF wearing such skirts as have
been produced by these French dress
makers. 1t does not object to the width
of hem as much as IL does to it's length.
II realizes that a gathered skirt reach
Ing to the ankles Is apt to accentuate
age. There is no doubt, however. that
the world has been treated to a moclxery
OF age and has witnessed cruel indigna-
tion heaped upon maturity through the
medium OF knee-length skirts. high-heeled
shoes and clown-painted faces The
passionate desire to appear young Is
often an insult to nature. We have
witnessed a procession of foolish middle
aged ladies-reckoning middle age from
40 to 60--tricked In the habiliments OF
coquettish infancy, and we have cried
aloud at the horror Of the thing.
Is 1t not saner. wiser and kinder 10
attempt spiritual rather than physical
youth. and TO look dignified In long
skirt rather than grotesque in a short
one?
Why not insist upon dividing the
span OF life into three proper sections
and wear clothes befitting each. never
overriding youth or OVERRIDING age?
For whoever searches u there Is a gra-
clous compromise In clothes. and In the
finding OF this compromise and exploit
ing II there shines the genius OF the well
dressed woman.
But women want details to-day. They
can gather up these details and choose
between them later on. The outstanding
fact to a reporter. as | said before. is
the persistence OF the long. full skirt It's
fulness must he modified before the gar
nent is generally accepted. but there is
n belief among all those who deal with
clothes that lorg skirts for evening and
longer skirts for the street VIII be ac-
ccpted without a murmur before the
spring leaves are dead.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10
why the Revival OF rringef

A curious touch In the spring fash
ions which has puzzled the reporter is
a revival OF fringe. II falls over all
frocks like a cascade Of water. II is
rarely used In straight formation on
skirt but dashcs about IN hectic way
over the skirt and bodice. II Is prob
ably revived through the insistent Span
ish influence on oostumery. The huge
Spanish comb has CINE back. Certain
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

high severity OF its neckline. There are
no sleeves. What waistline there Is is
defined above the hips by drapery. The
skirt sweeps on the floor at the back
and drifts in between the ankles in
front. The drapery is caught al one side
with white gardenias.
VIII We Accept BIacks
TO one in the watch tower ii looks
as though the American public were
going to repeat its usual action in
adopting French fashion year after
France had standardized It, The wear
ing of black has begun overe here. IL
Is dead black, without the faintest
glamour OF lustre. From the crown of
the head to the hem Of the skirt the
sombreness Is not broken except by a
string OF pearls or white ivory beads.
The stockings invariably give color 10
the costume. They are gray. beige or
onion skin. The slippers match or they
are of black. The Americans run to
gray or beige suede. The French in
sist upon black patent leather or black
velvet Those who import French
clothes have brought over a quantity OF
these dead black gowns for morning,
afternoon and evening. They vary
them with gowns of black lace
A few OF the models which are - be
constantly repeated, Judging from pres
ent orders. have simple bodices, ocna-
mental skirts and n string girdle OF the
material that passes twice about the
waist. With these gowns go pointed
shawls Of the material edged with fringe.
The afternoon gown which serves for
the evening is being accepted by Amer
lea after 4 has held sway In France
for four years. These little black
shawis are not Victorian. They are
typicaliy Spanish and therefore they
have coauetry. The smart woman
wears them 10 any afternoon function,
dropping them to show a Greek neckline
and half uncovered arms. When the
gown serves for the evening there are
no sleeves. This type of evening frock
In considered ultra smart.
II is a wise and economic fashion for
the sixth months of American warm
weather.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

The French dressmakers have not
abandoned the long skirt. It is full. 1t
IS slender and draped. 1t is transpar-
ent. 1t is opaque. 1t is built for the
afternoon. Ii is fashioned for the eve
ming. 1t has not appeared with start
ling effect in street clothes. In France
the dressmakers who follow the smart
set are cutting their street skirts ten
inches longer than they were last
summer.
1t Is not wise to discard these facts.
1t is not the part of sagacity to re-
gard them as mere excrescences on
the surface of fashion.
The French have method In their
obstinacy. They hammer a fashion on
an anvil with the strength. and pertinac-
ity OF Vulcan and the world accepts
the finished product.
II seems to the reporter of fashion
that this obstinacy In the choice of a
long skirt for the spring on the part OF
a few powerful factors in France who
shape and determine should be accepted
as significant.
The New York herald., 1921-04-10

Mrs. James Hart of $40 Central Park
West has announced the engagement Of
her sister, Miss Eleanor O'Reilly, to Mr..
Paul w. A. MacMahon of Montclair,
N J.
The Washington herald., 1921-10-09

pale starlight, gave vent to deep and Jove-
like laughter.
The reverberations Of it, before the kindly
little cure could bring it to step, reached
even the distracted giant failing his huge
body with what was left Of the tattered po-
tato sack. 1t released the dormant volcanoes
Of indignation, of hitherto speechless rebel
lion against fate which seemed without
reason and without Justice.
And he sat UP and cursed as no man in all
the valley Of Ld1otte had ever cursed hefere,
He hurled inPassionsd inprecation upon the
cure and his hives. upon sancerre- and tts
bees. and its blacksmith. He anathematized
HIS fhieHds and his enemies. his forbears
md the unborn issue Of his line, the church,
the country. the universe. and his ewn burn
ing and swollen hody. Then he went back
to the bees again, end without stint sad
without hesitation. execrated and banned
and proscrihed and eamminated svsrythins
The Washington herald., 1921-10-09

iating to him. as man Of position and
power. to do so. but he seemed to have small
choice In the matter. He had already drunk
deep Of the cup Of humiliation and he hung
cred for peace and something more than a
potato sack about his hip bones. And all
might still have been well had he chosen
that line Of retreat with discretion. But in
his precipitate retirement into the back.
ground he came into violent collision with
that beehive which earlier in the day had
already been subjected to unprecedented In
dignities.
Nov the bee, as the cure Haight have told
him, could lay claim to singular sensitive.
ness Of nature, mysteriousiy infammatory
temper, and more than human tendency to
retaliate for past transgressiens. The result
vas that the giant exssailer Of the Great
Lakes. % he went earthward With that hee-
hive. found himself surrounded By what
seemed tinsiing aura Of indtgnation mist,
The Washington herald., 1921-10-09

of humming anger shot through with un-
looked for barbs Of agony.
The potato sack which had been given TO
him merely as slight. fertilization against
the cold afforded him scant protection from
this pertinaeious cloud which hung about
this large, white body. Then he conceived
the idea, in his frenzy, of rolling about to
asht of his assailants, as burning men have
been known to fight Off a tire.
1t was a thrice luekless movement
second hive, and then a-thtrd and fourth
were quickly OVERTURNED. The gyratins
Hymph-like figure was enveioped In swarm
ins bees. was drenched and blaaketed In
them, as a mountain-climber 10 Sometimes
oyertaken and Shut in by clouds Rlindty
and bitterly he fought against them. but the
indisnities aiready heapsd upon that winged
and sptrit,iike enemy was great and equally
great was his wrath. And It wss then that
Black sauriol. pufins his black pine IN the
The Washington herald., 1921-10-09

that bore wings and everything FIAT walked
and crawIed upon the earth.
Black Sauriol. as he leaned across the
vhitewashed palings, side by side with the
sbsshed little cure. listened With wonder IN
his heart and bewildermsnt on his facs.
rUs sgststl" he rsptiy etaeulatsd. vhsa
1t vas all over. "ss1sslss. What supsss
slaspAewsi It is matchisss, ~'sies! And
I\hsve been outdone. I an dsthronsd.
knew now. the second nddie 10 an that
misht play. And the second hdd,s 10 ps~9
enough for sauriol!"
In the early gray Of the morning ths eis-
eoasolate cure surveyed the ruias I'D rse-
fully acknowledged that ssneesys would
have little honey that season. Bat Asep
down in his soul he knew that kindly sst
freeiy performed, vss westsr 70 tAs mem
ory than any syrup frem tAs Att,e combs
Of Hymsttus itssn. And ssfsss tSs nass
The Washington herald., 1921-10-09

added, "apd. as far as Nr, Harding
and the rest of 'em here are con-
cerned, they won't trouble you.
J0hnI beg your pardon-thsts
not your name, ] know" He rubbed
his chin. do you know, that ever
since you came down to my place
the other night I've been trying to
remember what IT was. and bless
my soul II / can"
MY name is Robert" the For
tune Hunter said. Old Fernie
laughed rather constrsinediy.
BLESS me, so IT Isl We named
YOU after the vicar who married US.
| remember. Your mother thought
the world of him. Dear me! How
il all comes back.
The clock on the shelf chimed,
and the Fortune Hunter turned
from his contemplation Of the dark
garden; it was half past eight!
He reused himself with an EFFORT
We'll. I'll be getting along" he
said.
Pernie paIed a little. Not to-
night. Come home with me IL you
can't stay here"
The Fortune Hunter laughed.
"Here?" he said, eloquently.
come home with me then" the
old man urged, rather psthetically.
It's a small place. but you're well
come"
The Fortune Hunter shook his
head.
ITS kind Of you, but I'll be get
ting along" His eyes turned visit
fully toward the door.
There was a moments silence,
then Fernie held out his hand. Il
should like" he began, but there
was no need for him to finish; the
Fortune Hunter teok his hand In
a warm grip.
"Good-by. and-thsnkyeu," he
said.
And 10 there's every anything 7
can do" the old man said, huskily,
you know where to find me-"
Their hands fell apart and the
Fortune Hunter opened the door
and went out into the hall.
II only he could see Anne just
once more-just for one moment!
But he knew he could not expect
IT: she had done with him forever.
BY force Of habit he took his
coat from the hall stsnd-the eos t
which was not his-and his hat and
He opened It. and the rush OF
night air smote his face with q
food Of cold memory.
Never to see her again, never to
hear her voice! His punishment was
greater than he could bear.
John" The name was spoken In
a trembling whisper, and he wheeled
round. blinded with wild hope and
the agony Of relief. to find Anne
standing there behind him.
Don't Get"
For a moment Anne and the For
tune Hunter looked at one another
without speaking; then, suddenly
before the pain and humiliation Of
her eyes. he broke out In passionate
incoherence:
"Tm sorry. Try to forgive m'
some day. rye lost everything-ev
eTything."
Her sad eyes wandered over hi
face and then past him to the oper
door and the moonlit world beyond
where are YOU going sh'
asked family.
He tried to smile, but his lip
twitched badly. Back to the roat