The New York herald., 1921-07-10

accessories which bootmakers are per
suading us to accept.
There Is another type Of French house
gown that appeals to the American fdes
or what Is considered proper and lovely
1t runs along conventional lines. 1t II
true, but 1t atones for such monoton.
by It's coloring.
1t begins as a simple one piece frocl
loosely hung from the shoulders and
arranged in wide tucks between hip:
and hem. So far. all Is simple. 1t !,
when coat of brown net Is added thai
brilliancy begins. The net In the coat Il
coarse. with sufficient body to give
character to the yellow chiffon sliI
beneath. 1t Is heavily embroidered with
gold thread, which adds to its charac'
ter. 1t sweeps over the shoulders. dowr
the back. and falls in a flaring train on
the floor.
In this frock. as in many others. roses
are well used to carry out the color
scheme. They are punched at the end
OF a yellow girdle. the leaves turning
from bronze to seal brown with a flicker
of dark red at the centre.
The woman who intends to indulge
herself In such loose and comfortable
robes for the indolent hours should re-
member the value of flowers. In summer
days they fit into the landscape, they go
with the decorations of the house. they
should be worn on the hat, at the waist
and even pinned on the parasol after the
new French fashion.
House Gowns should BE Loose.
One thing that is necessary in house
gowns Is looseness. Nothing must re-
strict the figure except the corset. The
wise woman who has lost the look OF an
eel should not discard the corset even
in her careless hours. 1t may be of rub
ber, of elastic webbing. 1t may be OF
brocade lightly boned. but it should be
there.
Through constant indulgence in free
dom the figure spreads, and regardless
of all the encomiums of the classicists
upon the Greek figure, the American
woman has an uncomfortable sense OF
ugliness when she begins to bulge In the
wrong places.
There are certain corsets made to go
under these loose gowns. In truth 1t Is
a queer thing that in a so-called corset
less season such variety of corsets Is
offered. One Is bewildered. We are
told we must have half dozen pair In
order to be decently clothed. They are
offered for different varieties of dress.
A woman who has tried to wear a tai
topless corset designed for a chemise
evening frock feels the full force Of the
need for variety.
The commercialists have us. We are
bound to buy many corsets for many
uses. When we hear Worth say that
Poiret Is crazy because he advocates
corsets we want to ask how, then, are
the corset makers piling up their little
fortunes Think of women paying 500
a pair for rubber corsets
There was nothing like the variety in
the old days, when every woman was
tightly corsetted after she was 16 years
Old. And $40 was a good price in those
halcyon times. Now we are asked to
buy six pairs Of corsets for one season
and to pay 500 a pair for some of
them. Yet we are asked to accept the
dictum that it is a corsetless age!
Another essential foundation for the
negligee is an Opaque and we'll cut slip.
This can be bought at the shops as
cheaply as one can make it, unless there
is material in the sewing room that can
be used. Georgette crepe is offered, but
thin satin is better. There should be no
belt and no sleeves. Cheap grades of
crepe de chine such as one often buys in
underclothes in the, shops is useless.
II q woman cannot afford to indulge
her caprice in separate Innings let her
decide on single one In flesh pink,
cream white or mist gray.
And just one more word: 1t is often
better to cut this lining with slight
sleeve and deep low neck rather than
straighten it at the top and hold 1t up
with shoulder straps. There is re-
action in favor of an apology for a
sleeve in Innings. If outer clothes are to
continue transparent, the better judges
of good dressing advocate bit more
prudery in covering up the body