Middletown transcript., 1921-11-26

Suffering Poland has fufnlSneu uIe
Paris dressmaker with her Inspiration
for the fashions Of this fall and the
coming winter, according to Paris
fashion correspondent. From this war
racked, poverty-stricken country mas
come the lead for the luxury OF the
world. 1t is not the Poland Of today
that is dominating, but the Poland OF
ancient glory which kept step WITH
France In her progress toward civi'iza-
tiOn.
Many missions have gone from
France into Poland, and each group
has returned impressed by her pathos
and her beauty. Those missions have
had q bearing on present-day fashions
all of which are of the Renaissance
period, touched with the Polish IN
fuence.
The Polish-Henaissance influence is
q transforming one because prac-
tically every part Of the dress mas
been touched. Sleeves have been mace
larger and in fancy style, both open
and with under sleeves. Collars have
heightened and have grown very I'M
portant looking. The waistline has
dropped several inches. The skirt has
heightened and taken on flare, SO
this movement is almost revolutionary.
These styles have great dignity
and elegance. They call for the use
Of rich materials Of heavy weight
Trimmings are heavy In the form OF
big cabuchons, nail heads and heavy
embroider:es that stand out from the
background. The goldsmith's trade
was at it's zenith during this period
and the costumes of the nobility were
adorned with real and semi-precious
Jewels and ornamented with hammered
gold and silver. Today all of these
effects are being initiated with great
success.
Quilted Velvet Model.
Such fringes as are used are heavy,
being made Of lacet, chenille and
strings Of large beads instead Of the
fine silk strands Of modern times.
There is new line of quilted ma
terials brought out by Rodier, which
works up wonderfully in these Polish
Renaissance models.
One of the most striking examples
Of the Polish styles is the model
named N1jiuski. made by Jean Patou.
It is of Rodier's Clock. quilted
velvet, the quilting being done in gold
thread. It is trimmed with black
Persian lamb fur and has hammered
steel nail head embroidery on the un-
dersleeve and heavily jeweled gir1le
worn at a low waistline. The model
holds the keynote Of much that is new
and interesting in forthcoming fashion
for autumn and winter.
In common with many other of this
seasons tailored dresses, it shows
high muffling collar. Persian lamb was
chosen for 1t, and the same fur trims
the sleeves and forms bands down
either side. This old-fashioned fur
also Is having renaissance and will
be one of the mast fashionable furs
this winter. Black Persian lamb Is
extensively used as trimming.
Copies Of this dress have been made
with the high muffling collar Of cloth
embroidered in band effect or entirely
covered with embroidery. 1t also has
been worked out in cloth fringed with
monkey fur.
Aside from emphasizing the Polish
blouse in tailored suits, Patou shows
three-quarters and seven-eighths length
tailored suit coats with wide flaring
circular cut fullness. Many of these
show the low blousing waistline or
low belted waistiines of the middle
ages and the Renaissance period. From
an fnspirational standpoint in design
the Polish peasant dress and the
Italian Renaissance court costumes Of
about the Sixteenth and Seventeenth
centuries have furnished most of
Patou's ideas.
The Renaissance is strongly pre-