The New York herald., 1921-02-13
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

Al nent where the sun is already
warm and the leaves begin to
chow life. There the fashions for the
Approaching months fit into view
There are launched the things that
win soon engross the interest Of the
peoples who continue to abide where
the snow melts slowly. There are
watched the clothes a mass Of women
VIM soon begin to adopt.
No one can. put the finger on any
one certain style and say Of 1t that
success lies there. But one can report
the tumble Of ideas and full fiedged
inspirations that are worked out in
fabric.
Curfously enough there is tumble
Of the periods of the two Napoleons,
and there is further confusion. 1t would
seem, in the minds of those who speak
casually Of Directoire and Second En-
pire. Surely, the two are far enough
apart to keep the mind clear of any
confusion. Possibly the fact that a
Napoleon was mixed UP with both
dress movements causes this twisting
Of the two eras on fashion. They are
full Of vivid contrast. these fashions,
as much so as were the two Bona
parties.
The Directoire clothes are high
vafsted. slim Of skirt, negligent Of bodice
IN the evening gowns and high of collar
and long of sleeve in the day frocks.
They were utterly free of frivolous
touches. The evening clothes were
founded on Grecian lines. but made more
provocative. The day clothes were
ha 1aaariIlina Qarh of the
Unbelievables, who wore trousers to the
& ankles and spiked coats with enormously
frilled shirts and high crowned hats.
Garb OF Second Empire Period.
The clothes OF the Second Napoleon.
IN the Second Empire period. well over
a half century later In French history.
were frivolous. hooped of skirt low In
the neck, sashed at the normal walstline.
with hats wide of brim and low In the
crown. An infinite difference
II Is the Americans who attempt TO
bring in the fashions Of the Directoire
when the first Bonaparte was only be-
ginning his power. and the French who
attempt TO bring in a revival OF the
Second Empire fashions which were at
their height near the end of the French
downfall before Sedan. The difference Is
so acute that one wonders how the
bridge will be fashioned that will con-
meet the two.
There Is a glimpse at each era in the
new clothes that are attracting the at
tention OF women.
Here are some of the conflicting fea-
lures: Taffeta is a prime favorite, and
crepe de chine has It's host OF followers.
Plaid Is universal with solid colors rum
ming at its side. The cocarde at the belt
and on the hat, made OF ribbon. is n rival
20 the garland OF colored flowers drifting
from the hip or the shoulder.
The long skirt Is not ashamed TO make
its appearance by the side of one cut
20 the gaiter top. The evening skirt,
which Is long enough to wrap about the
ankles and Is drawn with hobbled ef-
feet In the Eastern manner. goes COM
fortably In the society OF the Second
" Empire skirt built OF hounces or the
Spanish skirt distended at the hips.
The tight wrinkled Spanish bodice ex-
tending to the hips fits the figure with
out marking the waistline. but II does
not dim the glory OF the fitted bodice of
the Second Empire that ends near the
normal waistline and Is cut into deep
oval decolietage. The slim redingote
drops over simmer skirt with seal
ioped hem in a combination OF grass
green and black. unmarked at the waist
sash at the exact waistline.
Short puffed sleeves with lace ruffles
cover part OF the arm In taffeta evening
frocks and long tight sleeves Of the
Directoire reach to the wrist In q plain
day gown
Printed fabrics are rampant. and
tfose who are fearful of putting upon
their bodies entire gowns OF sprawling
figurations show their knowledge OF the
- L.. e. at.t t.srA
dering garments with printed materials.
using them as Innings or facings or
sashes.
French frocks are again or figured
foulard, and. although American women
are not enthusiastic over the fabric,
they take up the printed chiffon and
hand blocked silks and figured crepes.
Floral taffetas are having a good swing
upward into power. Figured ribbons
are attached to many surfaces.
Distending the Hips.
II Is surprising to many that the re-
vival Of the hooped hipline should really
find many followers. One thought that
the fashion had too recently died to be
resurrected with any degree OF success.
Women were weary OF II when II was
offered last season and said they would
have none OF II. Now they must be In
a mood TO accept II. for one sees frocls
Fashioned IN this manner worn by tho
classes and masses. II is not a general
fashlon. mind you. not enough worn to
make the flat hips appear old fash
ioned. but there is quite sufficient evil
dence OF It's popularity to let one pre-
dict for II a moderate revival. The
French will accept 1t during the spring.
- seems that a sharp line of differ
snce is drawn between the silhouette
for day and evening I'm this feature as
we'll as several others The circular
skirt and the flounced one with the ma
teriai slightly gathered over the hips
are constantly offered for the day
clothes. The Spanish pieatng and hoop
ting at the hips Is put forward for the
svening. Which will vanquish the
other7 Or will they find there In glory
enough for Soth7