The New York herald., 1921-05-23

of the summer will be varied and not
uniform.
When ii is worn with a suit 1t often
resembles waistcoat .for the tsiio.de
reason that maay-ol the new suits have
coats thu 20 not fasten. They open in
Il straight line down the front, and
unless one wears blouse or waistcoat
there is exhibited TO the view that ugly
line aero IS the front of the figure where
the shirtwaist goes into the skirt. When
these two garments are In different
colors the ugIiness is emphasized. The
very slim can obviate this condition BY
wearing q belt, but the majority Of
women prefer to omit it. 1t thickens
the waist line.
Because coats often open In front
there has come about an immense sale
of neckwear. 1t consists of ornamental
vests In a variety OF fabrics from or
CANDY to silk covered with chain stitch
cry. including many pieces made of deep
cream batiste covered with an eyelet
embro dery.
IL is unusual for a woman to wear a
whole shirtwaist under coat when she
persists in regarding the coat as part
OF the skirt and not something to be
taken off To prevent the jacket from
irritating the skin or absorbing the body
moisture careful women wear plain
blouses OF white nainsook cut high at the
back long in the sleeves. finished with a
picot edge. These come between the skin
and the coat Many women attach their
skirts by snaps TO the bottom OF these
little camisoles instead of putting them
on a belt at the waist The trick slen-
derizes the figure.
While it is true that the sale of neck
wear for jackets increases as the sea-
son deepens. there is no lack Of appre-
| citation OF the separate blouse. There
are certain types to be worn with suits
by those who insist upon taking off
their coats. using them as outer wraps
to be removed indoors, and these &C
over the skirt and not under IL. There
are other types, and they are more fire.
ouent. which are frankly intended TO be
used to build up a complete costume
/ by alliance with a separate skirt.
In such blouses there is a return to
/ the color fashions OF twenty years ago
They are not boned and they are with
out lining which is a species of infor-
/ mality that the woman OF twenty years
ago knew nothing about. but they are
\ unlicensed In the choice of color and
fabrics
These new ones go over the skirt and
go over the corset cover and have about
as much stiffness as an army shirt,
whereas the old ones although they wen,
| over the skirt. were as tight as corsets.
It takes an effort on the part Of an
individual TO get rid Of rcd this season
The dressmakers have gone wild about
IT, They arc aided and abetted by the
milliners. The people who manufacture
\ blouscs are the ones who could really
use this color to the best advantage.
There is n smart overblouse OF
Oriental red slightly gathered into the
| waist line at the sides IN order that II
i win not present the tight hattened line
across the diaphragm that only the slim
can tolerate. IL Is stitched with blue at
its edges and fastened with blue buttons.
There is a small guimpe which shows
when the high wide collar Is unfas-
tened and thrown back.
There Is another brilliant blouse
I trom France made 81 Chinese brocsde
worn with blue suit, IT is built to
give the effect 81 short tunic blouse
and resembles q waistcoat when II IL
worn under a Jacket The sleeves OF II
ara blue gcorgette
This Oriental idea or using Wide
square sleeves or transparent colored
material In a tunic blouse Of varied COLI
oring is good. Paris brought 1t up from
I the Orient and Is mailing q feature of
/ the fashion II gives tall woman a
| distinctly individual garment .
the touuh ~ red II shown in another
French blouse or rcd and white dotted
georgctte whicA carries the newly re-
vived fichu We have lifted from the days
OF Martha Washington. This piece ~
neckwear is not especially easy to adj
| just and II is not always becoming, but
II Is fashionable. and one must reckon
With It to *he best Of her ability
When II onics TO transparent blouses
orga ndy comes into It's own. II s Of
fered in bright colors. especially IN ycl-
,ow and II ls often girdled with black
satin to give II touch Of solidity
Chinese brocade Is sometimes substi-.
tuted.