The New York herald., 1921-12-18

those who want gayety at their next
arty. All Paris Is doing 1t. The quill
is the thing. And we wear them in our
ats because Princeton. too. took up the
dea. So much for that fashion.
The End of an idea.
1t Is we'll that the milliners have a
'ec0nd season before he Christmas holi-
days, for there are many pieces of head
gear which. loudly proclaimed in Sep
ember, have lost their appeal through
too cheap imitation and too frequent
sare. The end of an idea has come In
Lanvin's small hat copied after the Rus
san headdresS. 1t " us a. brllilanL sue
cess In the early autumn, but II soon
egeneratcd into the veriest common
place. You must know 1t? The small
at with the upturned brim in front
covered with shell embroidery. a skull
wn, a narrow bi i'm at back rolled
tightly against the head. Once II was
desirable. To-day 1t Is the hat to avoid
The Reboux hat with q high draped
crown rising to a point In front, also
after the Russian idea, and wide brim
narrowing at back Is still good either
in satin or velvet. When the latter is
chosen the panne weave is preferred.
This weave is liked by all milliners. 1t
will continue until spring.
The felt hat has been retained IN
fact, it is featured by those who follow
French fashions. 1t Is exceedingly soft,
this new felt, and trimmed with a
downward dropping OF loose feathers at
one side. One sees women wearing it at
the lunch hour in restaurants with tai
,ored suits or frocks. not With velvet or
kasha duvetyne gowns. II has taken the
place OF the crepe de chine turban which
ruled the world last winter
MousseIfne Replaces Crepe de Chin
It seems that women must have
fabric hats. AS they are tired of crepe
de chine. the milirers have led tn m
into wearing the slightly stiffened weave
of chiffon called mousseline. New hats
are constantly appearing In this fabric.
They are especially recommended for
early srring and offered to those who
are going South.
Chestnut color Is featured In these
hats when they arrive from Paris. It Is
n wise coloring. for 1t does not detract
from the tones of the skin or hair. yet Ii
Is distinct change from black. Women
In mass did not acc y the bright col
ored hats. such as Vatican purple or the
new purple called Louis XIII. They
refused geranium pink ones. although
they took up with flame red sill with
white suits for winter resorts. If they
wouldn't wear colors and were ready
to change from blacl, the mlHiners he
thorght them Of that standard favor
ite OF the French, chestnut. So the big
milliners are using II for their first
spring hats.
One such hat built by the new Paris
milIiner Suzy on the Rue de In Paix, IL
big enough to serve as n sunshade on
tho beach with brim that droops nj the
sides like a volplaning bird. Its trim
ming Ia n bow OF chestnut colored lace
placed in front with points that fall over
the edges OF the brim after the manner
OF the lace wells that adorn hats.
This same milliner, who has sprung
into fame after short career under
her own name--she was the designer for
the house OF Maria Guy, from which so
many good Americans took their styles
has designed Palm Beach hat OF straw
and taffeta that shows originality with
it's high crown of black straw shaped
like n beehive and fluted brim Of taft
feta which Is held down on one side
by a bright pink rose.
As the artist was making the sketches
chat are shown here Suzy picked up a
piece Of fog gray mousselinc. swirled Il
into q big sunshade hat without cutting
crown after the manner OF q bandanna
turban worn by the negro nurses OF
the South. Half an hour. and hat was
made.
And the price? Oh such trifles are
never based on time. It's art that de-
cides
Thia designer uses curling quills OF
colored worsted to trim the felt hats
that aro worn on the streets. That Is o