The Oklahoma miner. [volume] (Krebs, Okla.) 1912-192?, 1921-08-25

Despite the mushroom success Of
new tOiIOrs and dressmukers in Paris
who have brought out certain simple
types and popularized them to an At
most unheard Of extent. many women,
writes Paris fashion correspondent,
now are ordering their clothes from
houses that have held to their own
definite types through all these changes
I'm fashion.
Madeleine Vionnet, who only a short
time ago might have been termed an
outsider in the great dressmaking
circles, has impressed both France ana
America very deeply with her simple
floating panel styles and handkerchief
drupery, but rs women continually de-
mand varying types the opportunity is
not lacking for the success Of a variety
Of styles. This gives house like
Jeanne lanvin an opportunity to keep
her definite types.
one model is box coat suit In
blue serge marked off I'm little squares
with white braid and blue beads 1t
has the high frilled collar and jabot
which continue TO find favor. Ian
win has for some time been strong
advocate Of these short, youthful-look-
ing Jackets, as well as all sorts Of
frllIed high collars and fluffy jabot
effects.
Designers Mark Always Present.
1t is IA very good thing for clothes
in general that the great makers hold
definitely to ideas that are distinctly
their own. The designing and making
Of dress Is great deal of a gamble,
the past two years have shown very
plainly that there is no telling when
very simple thing may meet with an
almost overnight success.
If all the dressmakers in Parts mad
followed ViOnnets lead and made
her type Of dress because it was the
best seller for the time being, they
would have lost their cachet com
pletely and would have been prac-
tically nowhere when the wave of en-
thusiasm over this particular style
had died down. as it certainly must
OF course, they cannot always hold
TO a definite type. No designer can
do this and be a success. New themes
or variations of successful old ones
must he continually worked out
Flowing Sleeve and High Collar.
The same holds true Of those who
do not design clothes, but import to
America the works of the various
great French makers. They must
permit their own taste to prevail in
nnRing their choice. For instance, it
was all very well to bring over those
unique models from Madeleine ct
Madeleine which had the waistllne
placed at the knees, Il one desired
TO show great novelty, but it was not
reasonable to suppose that the women
of this country or any other, no matter
how capricious they might be, were
likely TO adopt such a fantastic style.
There are two outstanding features
of the Lanvin clothes which are notice
able In dress at the present time-the
flowing sleeve Of greater length than
those used heretofore and the high
collar. The former might be termed
n fashion which is thoroughly crystal
lized and the latter a strong fashion
tendency.
Sleeves open at the top to reveal
almost the entire arm are featured
I'm one frock. It was created by Lam
, vim for wcll-Enown French actress
to wear I'm recent production. The
This IS only one Of the many indlca-
tions that the more iuStrous materials
will vie with dull silks this autumn.
Perhaps they will surpass them in
popular favor II Is too carly ro En"w
but 1t IS certainly safe to predict that
they will be used extensively. Many
handsome models Of shiny silks win
be seen at the autumn openings. It
will then remain for women 10 take
their choice. hut II is very likely that
the public will have tired TO a great