The New York herald., 1921-02-20
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.


w THEN the men and women who
w furnish the brains and in
itiative in the great industry
that produces womens clothes talk
about fashions. they have a way of
going back to war days. 1t is so when
they talk of suits.
In France, as here, suits, whether
strictly tailored or otherwise, we're
very largely the product Of man labor.
Though women might design them, it
was the man cutter and the man
tailor who made them. In Paris these
men were usually French. German or
italian. In that never-to- be forgot
ten summer of 1914 1t was the French
men in this army of workers who first
laid down their shears and needles
TO take up arms. The Germans fol-
lowed closely. to return wily-nilly to
the fatherland, and then the Italians.
either to return home or to join ranks
with the French.
The women workers who remained
could, of course, have made suits.
though not so well as the men, at least
until they became expert. But this
was not the simplest, most economical
solution to the problem. 1t was char
acteristic of the way the French met
many war emergency when they
simply gave up suits. Separate frocks.
worn with capes wnen the weather
required-both garments that could be
made by women-became the universal
street attire Of French women
or course some of the tailors returned
to their benches. but the women OF
Paris have not returned to suits. There
we're distinct advantages, as they see
things. in the mode of wearing frocks
and wraps.
There are many American women who
apparently have eliminated suits from
their wardrobes--many of these. women
who have spent much time during and
since the war days In Paris. The Dress
makers here who most closely follow
French dress tendencies and who supply
the needs of women who look most mar
rowly TO Paris as the source of all dress
inspiration speak of suits as hardly OF
consequence at all any more.
France Makes Suits for America.
To be sure. some Of the French dress
making houses are designing and turn
ing out suits--larGcly for the American
or English demand. The only suit that
seems TO be of much Importance for
the French woman is the sport suit
,..tf hts ha ie laOlxa1
in its most Gallo rendering, as being
of American origin.
Sometimes YOU hear well dressed
women boast that they do not possess
a suit, that they do not intend to pos
sesS a suit But this boast Is more an
indication OF personal prejudice than n
reflection OF the taste or demands OF
most American women.
So while from ono quarter you see
raieed eyebrows OF doubt when you
launch tho belief that this Is TO be
good season for suits. from resorts In
tho south. prognostic always OF fash
ie-s Snd taste 60 prevail later. you hear
that suits arc IN demand and that the
suits worn are especially attractive. lt
in frequently the accessories OF the SUIT
that particularly recommend ", ana
se ainEiy the type of suit that mas met
with the moet enthusiastic support 80
far IL the suit that iennh hH'h uN9e
70 the addition 81 accessories otten
% course the suit ~ sold or made WIN
these accessories Incorporated IN ~ but
Accessories they remain. being made
separately from the suit and easily re-
movable
The suit made without revcra rs meet
lng with success. The revcrs come m
IN the giiet or collar that II worn With "
these sometimes made Of piquc ana
again % bright colorcd silk fabric
Again. the suits are made 80 as 20
reveal yell chosen hlousce or separate
waiatcoats. The coats are never double
sreasted in fact. many don't fasten.
sometimes hsinE ncld together ony BY
means of link buttons of onyx and silver.
A waistcoat that looks very much like
that worn with "A mans evening coat Is
meeting with great favor ~ one OF the
best houses.
Tho term Direrfoirc as applied % suits
this spring NAV mean variety Of things.
It is a term that has been used glibly
enough 20 apply merely 20 n distinctive
tvpe of suit ~ We'll as merely 70 certain I
trimming Accessories. and before tho
spring waxce and wanes Il viii doubt |