Evening star., 1921-02-27

from a feminine headdress affected
at that time.
The advantage Of the poke shape
is that. it gives room for deiicately
arranged coils Of hair at the back of
the crown. Bear in mind-in passing
that the psyche was dominant at
late eighteenth century interpreta-
tion of the classic Grecian mode Of
hair arrangement. The classic Greeks
got around the problem of head COW
ering by wearing fillets or bandeaus
or covering the head with filmy wells,
women OF the directoire period, any
more than it would the woman Of today.
But do not imagine that all or even
predominant number OF the French
or American hats are poke shapes or
even remotely suggestive Of the di-
rectoire. Side by side with this ten
'dcncy is another quite different. 1t
shows itself in broad. foppy brimrned
hats made to be worn with after
noon frocks suggestive of the second
empire. These hats have not had
opportunity to show themselves in Paris
or in our own northern cities. but ap-
pear under the more favorable setting
of southern resorts.
Whether VIC wear our hats droop
ing at the back or the sides; whether
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off the face, like an immense halo.
there is no abatement in their ten
dency to fit down well over the head.
and the woman who clings to an old
fashioned fondness for wearing hats
high on her crown Is as out OF the
seasons past. Undoubtedly in the
years to- come this period in, milli-
merry will stand out as the one when
women hid most. of their eyebrows
with their hats.
AS for the technique Of the new
hats. perhaps one of the most inter
esting things to report is that the
blocked hat is coming back into it's
Town. Moreover, this blocked hat is of.
straw. pre- minently lisere or milan.
For many seasons the so-called made
hats have had things all their own
way-a fact which had it's advantages
as we'll as It's disadvantages to the
woman who wore hats.
In favor of the made hat, the hat
produced by sewing straw or braid or
drapinG silk or other fabric on a can
vas shape. was the fact that IL you
were not able to find the shape you
wanted you could get your milliner
to reproduce the desired shape and
then cover it exactly to suit your
fancy.
This was a decided advantage to
the small milliner who could not. es-
pecially in war days, have secured a
wide variety in ready blocked shapes
Her stock in trade did not have to be
so large when a few hours, might
transform canvas and wire. braid or
silk into a hat of the latest contour.
For the woman who likes to dabble
in millinery herself there is always
an advantage when blocked shapes
are in vogue. Even when she pays
good price for such d hat there is an
economical advantage in doing this
and adding ones trimming ones self
that is, of course, provided one has
that heaven-sent ability to arrange
and adjust feather, "A wreath of
flowers or a bow of ribbon, an ability
which is born. not made. and which
all the training in the world will not
produce If one is born without it.
Another feature Of the new hat
fashions that will come to the aid of
the women who find economy in man.
ufacturing some of their own hats
is the numerous ornaments that have
been made for hats this season-not
feather or flower ornaments that need
expert handling to attach-but orna-
ments like glorified hatpins that need
only to be stuck into the hat at an
effective angle. These are often made
Of jet-though there are less expen-