Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1921-11-24
Longer Dresses and
Corsets Tight for the
Women After a Fight

Paris, Nov. 3-tBy Mall Black
remains supreme in the fashion world
of Paris. Despite a severe onslaught
by advocates of color, the supreme
council of style has been forced to
retain the conventional black as the
dominant motif of all fall and win
! ter modes and there is every indiea-
| ton that colors, except in minor
trimming effects, will not be able 10
challenge black until late spring.
! Adopted at time when economy
Was the guiding idea of all feminine
! purchases. black has come to be re-
earded as the most becoming color
i French women say it is alone in lend
! ing itself TO striking effects.
| Dressmakers quietly gathered To-
geth-r before fall and winter models
were given to the world and tacitly
! agreed that coiOrs should have a
| chance. The adoption of black was
! hurting them financially. One black
gown, carefully selected, took the
place of two or three dresses of dif-
ferent colors.
, But the French women who are in
dicators of the newest developments
in style, said very emphatic NO
The demand this fall was for black
and the big dressmakers bowed 10 the
inevitable. Crepe Moroccan. velve-
tine and perllaine are the most pop
ular materials.
The corset makers, however, have
been slightly more successful in their
its own. Drcssmakers are insisting
that corsets are now necessary 10
give the ''uncorseted look This
propaganda has succeeded in some
instances but most French women
having fought and won their freedom
are loath in the language Of a IA
nous French actress, ito Jail their
bodies again"
There are four definite features OF
the fall and winter modes: a very
long waist line. longer circular skirts
with full sides, eccentric sleeves OF
gay colors and the famous Bateau
neck line.
Brick ned has been used extern
.sively as trimming and some green
steel ornaments for hats, purses,
dresses and even shoes are the new
est thing in novelties.
Door knobs and nail head effects
are used in making girdles. In the
case of shoes the usual order of
things has been reversed and the
smartest shoes in Paris are "knick-
erbocker" shoes, with large steel
buckles.
These shoes look more like Ameri-
can shoes than anything ever before
worn by French women. although the
French last is retained. The short
stubby toe has disappeared in stylish
French footwear.
Black again dominates in hats. felt
being the best liked materials.
Crowns are much higher and the fan
hats are so big that they interfere
with dancing. Smaller hats will ne
worn with fur coats later in the sea-
son.
Circular earrings. usually circle
Of jet or ebony within a larger CIR
Gle, are worn by the best dressed wo-
ihSh thio IAN -NoNSlty sIiOFS
not make them fast enough. Some
women wear very large ones, almost
canibalistic in effect.
Cay color has its only opportunity
in evening gowns for young girls.
These are made in the brightest oil
colors but the evening dresses worn
| by their mothers and older relatives
are black The Empire period has
! given the inspiration for the youth
! full evening dresses this year, making
| wearers look like vcnerated ances-
tors. The skirts are large, full, WIN
| hips extended.