davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Newark post., 1921-08-24
Navy Training to be Limited
Under New Appropriation

The decrease in the appropriation
under the navy bill, the first step in
the limitation of armaments as
naval policy, while not so drastic in
it's affect on personnel, as the cut in
the army appropriation, does put the
navy under immediate necessity of re-
ducing the Naval Reserve.
The staff of reserve officers num-
bers at present in all grades and de-
partments about 26,500. 6,700 of
these are in the Coast Defense Re-
serve and decision has just been
reached to abolish this whole depart
ment of reserves. Officers in this de-
partment with special records for
active sea service during the war, will
be given the opportunity of transfer
to the sea-going reserve force which
is to be retained.
In the Reserve Aviation Corps are
about $3.50 officers. This department
will be retained with about half the
number of officers. The Dental Corps,
Construction Corps, and Chaplain
Corps of the reserves are to be
abolished and the Medical and Supply
Corps are to be greatly reduced.
All of these changes are regarded
as necessary and the wisest arrange
ment for reducing the actual expendi-
lures for the Naval Reserve from the
S14,000,000 asked for in the original
Naval Bill to the $7,000,000 appro-
priated by Congress.
Newark post., 1921-08-24
TREES THRIVE
in SANDY SOIL
Bring Prosperity and Pleasure
to Farmers

Thousands of acres of sandy, un-
productive land in Nebraska have
been turned into valuable and attrac-
tive forests by the United States
Forestry Service. Instead of men
ace to the farmers because of sand
storms caused by the wind blowing
the sand in great, dense clouds over
the roads and farms, this land now
furnishes the soft wood needed by the
farmer for many purposes, and the
trees add to the beauty and comfort of
farm life in the surrounding country.
The forests serve as a wind-break
from storms and wind, protecting
both cattle and crops, and are already
ideal picnic grounds.
"The officials of the United States
Forest Service, and the farmers Of
Nebraska are exceedingly proud Of
the successful elimination of this
dream and experiment. Where once
existed nothing but barren and DESC
late semi-deserts, one may now OBJ
serve beautiful young forests which
are already supplying the farmers
with an abundance of cheap fence
posts and other lumber. These at
tractive forests are also utilized as
picnic grounds where happy families
for miles around assemble on Satur-
day afternoons and enjoy life as only
rational and healthy human beings
are capable of doing.
Nebraska is not the only state
that has large quantities of waste
sand areas. Other states are like
wise afflicted. They can easily over
come this unfortunate condition by
following the Nebraska plan. The
officials of the Forest Service, located
at Washington, are only too eager to
Newark post., 1921-08-24
NEWARK OPERA HOUSE
PROGRAM. WEEK BEGINNING
SATURDAY,, 9th

Carmel Myers in The Kiss An absorbing
drama of ranch life in the early days of southern
California News and Monkey Comedy.
Newark post., 1921-08-24
Successful Method
of Protecting Garden
Crops From Insects
Recently Demonstrated

A mixture of lime, kaolin, and the
pulverized leaves and stems of waste
tobacco has been shown to be more
effective than the commonly used
spray of nicotine sulphate, for eradi-
eating insect pests on garden crops.
The United States Department Of
Agriculture reports successful tests
with the new tobacco dust, which
show not only that insects succumb
to it more quickly than to the liquid
spray, but considerable saving in
labor and expense. The dust does not
burn the plants. With hand duster
of the bellows type one man can cover
three acres a day.
Newark post., 1921-08-24
Riding a Kite Has More
Thrills than Flying One

A small water plane has been in
vented which is self-stablizing when
it is in the air and is controlled from
the ground along the shore. The
string to this exciting kite is steel
cable, and the man who f1ys it has
charge of fifty horse power electric
motor on the ground. The plane
carries several passengers and as it
combines the thrills of flying with
Newark post., 1921-08-24

"Contentment is as lofty and fine q
state Of mind as SNUG satisfaction is
unbecoming and unworthy. Faith in
the future will make use of content
ment, but it can do nothing with snug
satisfaction. The man whose mind is
closed to all proposals for change, for
reasonable experiment with the unfa-
miliar and untested, is stubbornly
without faith in the future. His mind
and spirit move in a closed circle and
are the captives of their present en-
vironment. The free spirit will use
its environment as stepping stone
to new experiments, and to new un-
dertakings. 1t will not be wasteful
Or extravagant of effort because it
and past experiment have taught and
what enterprises and undertakings
have been definitely set aside as un-
wise, unbecoming or unworthy"
Nicholas Murray Butler.
Newark post., 1921-08-24

perfect safety, it is tremendously
popular at the bathing beaches where
it has been installed as feature Of
the water sports.
Newark post., 1921-08-24

cooperate with any community desir-
ing to improve such conditions. Which
will be the next community to tackle
the job?"
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

ENLARGED store facilities have
given the NJ. Brooks & Co. an
opportunity to inaugurate the
largest millinery department of n.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

as to price, material and stability
in which It can be obtained. The
most elaborate Of them are appro-
pirate for semi.formal and evening
wear, being of the finest laces and
sleeveless save for an edged after
thought that marks the armholes.
There are others Of lustrous Canton
crepe embroidery in highly colored
wool and beads for the matinee or
special occasions otherwise. Still
others Of the navy blue and black
crepes and georgettes are for bust
ness and street wear under the long
coats.
Fashionably speaking. the separate
skirt seems doomed except for &C.
tual sports wear as the handmade
blouse Of batiste has now been rele-
gated to that category. The smart
est of the coat suits have their own
finish in the way OF a blouse, espe-
cially for the younger element, and
those which still confine themselves
to the suit and Jacket, call for an
overblouse to match the suit lining
or to harmonic with the suiting.
Silk or wool embroidery Of excel
lent workmanship or combinations
with other fabrics are the correct
|. trimming and they must extend be-
low the waistline to be absolutely
correct.
SINCE this is the particular sea-
son of the year when the blouse
comes into its own, 1t is we'll to
point out the imported ones for suit
wear shown by Lansburgh q Bro.
now. These waists are richly crust
ed with steel and gold beads Of dim
inutive size in conventional and odd
patterns. All Of them are independent
OF the separate belt to connect them
with the wearer's skirt. but are of
the long-waisted or fitted belt styles,
with kimona sleeves either long or
short. Some of them suggest the
Balkan blouse Of recent popularity
and others taper themselves In the
broader dimensions Of a peplum.
Only the darker shades of blue are
available in this line.
Jupons at this store emphasize in
navy blue and black crepes the new
use Of braid and floss to stimulate
the handiwork Of our grandfathers.
They also have the wide. graceful
shawl collar, which often gives the
appearance Of being sleeve and neck
line all in one piece, and are spent at
the sides in tunic fashion.
This same charming collar which
retains the Jenny neck line and the
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

modes, all black in their compoet-
ton. In contrast to the more tailA
ored effects, is a black velvet din
ner hat of feather weight and soft,
curving lines about the face which
has a half-garland Of gold wheat
and red gold small peoples for it's
only garniture. A small gray vel
vet turban for matron or debutante
Is covered with French embroidery
in vari-colored wooden threads and
has an Oriental ornament which
drops blue ends over one shoulder,
as its trimming.
The jupons at this shop are
heavily fringed, the blouse keeping
its colors in one tone, but there are
to be others Of exquisitely trimmed
Georgette added to this stock for
the dressier wear.
I TITLE RED RIDING HOOD
Of the nursery fable must have
been the inspiration of new school
girl creation to be found in the
shop Of the J. NJ. Gliding and Com
pany. 1t Is minus, happily, the
VOLTS challenge and leaves nothing
to be desired but luncheon basket
or books and a curly.haired young
maiden to complete the picture. The
dress is a Bramley design. in the
shade Of bright red jersey cloth
which Is to the fore for children's
dresses this season. It's most Rid
ing Hood likeness is in the cape
which falls over the pleated skirt
and which may be left at home by
the school girl. The over blouse has
simulated pockets in black embroid.
cry and a demure collar of white
linen, which also makes the small
turn back cuffs,
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

The original upon was a
sleeveless surcoat worn by
knights and royalty over their
amor many, many years past and
was often a gorgeous garment,
emblazoned with the heraldic de-
signs belonging to the families of
the wearers.
At that time, there was also an
outer garment worn rs a part Of
the medieval woman's attire, call
ed a surcoat but never upon.
It was sometimes trimmed with
fur, was sleeveless and was worn
over the other clothing The mod
ernized upon is entirely for fem
mime wear, however, and thus tri-
umphs over it's olden kinsman,
the surcoat.
Scalloped edges, termed invec-
lures in the days when knight
hood flourished, were populartzcd
first on the ancient jupons and
ap to the present time, arc liked
as the finish at the bottom of
garment.
Perhaps the most familiar associa-
ton the present-day observer has
of the usage of this upon Is in the
effigtes to be found on the tomps
In the older countries abroad and in
portraits of medieval figures. Joan
of Arc has been represented by
some painters as wearing the jupon
'ublet over the fighting equip
70 mt.
The 1921 upon, likewise designat-
ed as the costume blouse to be worn
by the Washington woman this win
Ter. Is longer than its medieval an
cestor. Indeed, It is almost frock
since many OF it's stunning examples
reach to the edge of the skirt or
have borders OF fringe that prac.
tically do az much. It Is one new
fashion that should find favor with
the masculine heads of households
since It promises to introduce econ
omy In dress. All that Is necessary
for wear with the upon is a foun-
dalton Of satin or some heavier IA
brio, or q last years skirt or some
left over under drape. Although the
possession Of a upon means approx
nately a new dress for the wardrobe
this new garment Is to be found
IN the blouse departments Of the
local shops. Several of these shops
also carry foundation slips to be
worn with the blouses.
One Of the most interesting fea-
lures of the upon is wide variety
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

long slope of peasant blouse, is on
q lavender georgette trimmed with
capichon beads of Jet, shown rs
one accessory for the new beaver
brown suits.
THE combined beauty Of the new
fuchsia puppies and cerise has
been added to sheerest black lace of
Spanish flavor to make a jupon for
dressy wear being displayed by the
Louvre shop. 1t has a simple neck
line in V-shape with black satin
edges. this fabric also binding the
long sweep Of the lace towards the
bottom Of the skirt but at the belt
line. the two-toned georgette sash
blooms into soft rosebuds at one
side.
Canton crepe jupons also handled
by this store are 70 vary themselves
with lattice work trimming of
self material distributed over their
surfaces and revel in the open or
cut-out work used 30 widely In all
weights Of materials this year.
The Louvre has brought on too, a
fetching top coat of black Marvella
cloth which is quite worthy of note.
1t has high collar OF gray squirrel
fur and cuffs bands of this same ma
terial, but the bell sleeves are set
upon other sleeves that project into
a gathered tightness at the wrists to
keep the winter winds in their lie.
spective places. A narrow shoe
string belt tops a flare which is
thoroughly Russian in its graceful
folds, the whole lined throughout
with the new plain colored crepe
de chimes in neutral tones seen In
the best outer wraps.
ENLARGED store facilities have
given the NJ. Brooks & Co. an
opportunity to inaugurate the
largest millinery department of IL,
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02
AMBASSADOR HERRICK
KEEPS OPEN HOUSE AT
HIS HOME i'm GARCHES
Many Distinguished Quests Are Entertained at
the Beautiful Residence of the American,
Envoy to France-Mrs. J. Pierpont Morgan
Returns From Deauville, Where "Crowds"
Have Left for Gayer Biarritz.

Mr.. and Mrs. Ryan have returned
to New YoTk after four months
spent in Paris. -
Jane AddaI is leaving Paris
shortly for a visit OF sociological In
vestigation in England. While in
Paris she had long conferences with
different labor leaders.
Prominent Americans joining In
the recent rush for home have been
Mrs. Mortimer L. Schiff. Colonel and
Mrs. de Lancy Kountze, Mrs. Wal
ter H. Schoelkopf. Mrs. Robert Ba-
con, Miss Lillian Tucker, Mrs. w. II.
Burgess. Nine. Frances Aida,
George w. Wickersham and Donald
r. Smith.
w. Maynard, Of New York. has
arrived at the Ritz from a tour Of
Italy.
Mr.. and Mrs. J. D. Little, OF New
York, have returned to the Rits
after taking the cure at Vittei.
Mr.. and Mrs. Thomas MacAuliffe.
Of New York, have arrived froS,
London.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02
By COUNT DE PASSY.
Especial to the Universal serviceJ

PARIS, Oct. 1.
r NFANTA EULALIE, Of Spain.
Is out Of disgrace at last with
the Spanish royal family. and
King Alphonso has himself given
the "mischievous princess" permits
sion to return to her native country
from her long exile in Germany.
She was called the "mischievous
princess" from the number and
daring nature Of her pranks in
Madrid, Paris and other European
capitals.
Once. eluding the secret service
men detailed to guard her person.
she went riding in the Boise de
Boulogne alone. At lunch.time she
reappeared at the Spanish embassy,
where she was staying. accompa-
MED by a cavalier. whom she had
invited to lunch.
What Is his manner" inquired
Dom Carlos, who was present,
afterward.
IT don't KNOW only met him
this morning" answered the
princess.
It transpired that the man who
had lunched with the heir to the
throne OF Spain was a fencing
master Of disrepute. For the
prank the infanta was sent to a
convent.
Her latest act has been to turn
her magnificent property on Mount
Igueldo, near St. Sebastian, into a
hospital.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02


cred from the trouble which caused
her to undergo three operatiofs.
the marriage of Prince Ferdinand
de Bourdo,. Orleans, Duke Of Mont
pensier, with Mile. de Vaudeterrazos :,
Of Los Antrinos. Spain. carae ss a
shock to the royalist .. world Of
France. which was chagrined at
seeing the heir to the throne Of
France marry simple viscountess
In whose veins ran not a drop of
royal blood.
Another marriage in the near fu-
ture will furnish still more food for
gossip. This viii be when Prince,
Jaime de Bourbon, Duke Of '"idrid.
son Of the late Dom Carts ), takes as
bride the beautiful I-norita Piedad
de, Yturbe de Ytprt.de daughter by
her first marriage Of the Duchess
Of Parent.
Rumors Of fall in the Yturbide
fortunes, previously accounted one
Of the largest in Europe. found con-
firmation recently when their mag
nificent mansion on the Avenue du
Bots de Boulogna, Paris, was bought
by Simon Patino. the Italian art con.
noisseur and collector.
q CrswTed Heads -
Thick As Berries.
The usual after-season shaking
up is going on in France. Arrivals
and departures Of prominent Amer
leans figure on the Ritz register
daily and faces at social functions
change constantly.
Crowned. once-crowned and may
be-crowned heads are as plenty at
the Ritz as berries in September.
You bump into royal persons in theI
lobby, you fan over their legs Id
trying to get to your table in tn,
garden at tea. and II you ventur
into the restaurant for dinner yor
eyes are apt to be dazzled by Il,
brilliancy Of the jewel display
Judging by outward appearance
most Of the queens and princess
have brought the crown Jewels ale
with them.
Queen Marie Of Rumania is her
receiving bouquets from all and 81
dry and evincing great interest y,
the opera. Her Cinema play-the
first even written by a queen, It Is
said-"The Lily Of Life" is to be pro-
duced soon in Paris. Being a queen
she tried to get the opera for It,
but even the amiable M. Rouche
wouldn't stand for that.
Queen or no queen" he told an
intimate, "therell be no movies In
my OPERA
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02
American to Wed
Princess in October.

Princess Anastasia, Of Greece, for
merly Mrs. William B. Leeds, Of
New York, has intimated to friends
that the marriage Of her son,
william Leeds, to the Princess
Xenia, of Russia, will take place
in October.
The dollar princess has not been
living up to her nickname at AK
Les.Bains, where with her husband,
Prince Christopher, she has been
living incognito and taking the
cure.
True to her newly Undiscovered pre-
cepts Of economy, details Of which
Universal Service was first to
announce, the American princess
has vigorously forbidden all extra
vagance to her son Billy. She her.
self and the prince have been living
unostentatiously in two rooms at a
quiet AK hotel, rarely going to the
Casino and never to the races.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

IN the above group is miscei-
Ldny Of net6 ideas in attire for
the mGtr0n and the maid from sev-
erat local speciality shops. At the
upper left is a smart turbdn of
hdtters' plush from the kdfka
shop. Its rich trimming, a brace of
bird of Paradise feathers, is put
on IN a Oay that gives chic to the
most demure Oearer.. A Spanish
ornament similar to the combs
worn this season as chdpeau Gd1ni-
lures, ties dotOn the spreading
Paradise fro,tds to the turban's
edge.
The coat stit of broWn Veldyne
pictured at the upper right is a
complete costume for some to-be-
favored Uedrer as 1t has bodice
attached to the skirt. This is made
of gray duvetyne interviewer with
a castor blue stripe, absolutely
plain at neck and sleeve line. The
coat has a panel back and a deep
collar, bread cuffs and commodious
patch pockets of taupe squirrel
fur. With 1t is Worn q Very small
hat of broion relvet finished Vith
a soft tan and brown breast across
the front. This model is from the
J. M. Gliding and Company.
In the center Is a restaurant
frock of black Spanish lace and
dccordidn pLeated Georgette crepe,
history this season. Every wanted
shade and all types Of hats are to
be found in the assortment now be-
ing advanced by this shop, but the
all-black chapeau~ seems to have the
most prominent place of the mo-
ment in Its styles. Here is also
noted a preference for the sim
plicity Of trimming and the rich
ness of workmanship that Is char
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

PARIS, Sept. 2S.
M RS. J. PIERPONT MORGAN
M has returned to the Hotel
Plaza Athanae from a visit
to Deauville. Mrs. Morgan waited
for her visit until the grand sea.
son" was over and the fast crowd"
had departed in the direction of
Biarritz.
The mystery Of the whereabouts
Of j. P. Morgan has been settled
by an announcement Of the Nor.
gan Harjes Bank. which states that
the financier Is In Scotland. 1T had
been reported that he was taking
an airplane tour through Germany
and central Europe.
Cortlandt Field Bishop, the invet-
crate automobiles, has returned to
Paris after touring new highways
of the Alps in his powerful Delage.
Quests of Ambassador Myron T.
Herrick at his Garches home recent.
ly, have included Mr.. and Mrs.
Thomas Fortune Ryan, Mr.. and
Mrs. Samuel Untermeyer. Charles
r. Crane and James Hayden Hyde.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

the later being inserted as a loaoer
bodice and upper part of the tuntc
oVer skirt. The dress, Uhich is
from the Louvre on + street, gets
much distinction from its flotVing
lace sleeves and an uneUen hem
line. A sparkling girdle of rhine
stones holds the soft pleated crepe
into long tDaist line and ends
t0ith a rhinestone and sapphire or
ndment IN triangular shape.
The hat at the IoOer right is also
from this shop. It is of black
Panne veIvet, turned juuntily back
at the side front to accommodate
two clusters of black glycerine pea
cock phich take themselves off IN
contrary directions, to make a hat
becoming to many carried types.
Little Red Riding Hood in her
newest fGH outfit is seen at the
lo,oer left in school girl frock
from the J. NJ. Gliding and Com
pGny. 1t is fashioned of scarlet
JERSEY in the red that made the
nursery tale famous
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02

acteristic of the better grade Of
goods throughout all lines Of femi-
nine wearing apparel this fall.
The Brooks hats in black are Of
Panne velvet, finished with Jet and
polished ribbons in the continental
and tricorn shapes, in the turned
from.the.face wide brims of Paon
velvet with trimmings of unique
materials, and countless other
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02
LESS SURCOAT FROM DAYS OF THE CRUSADERS w.
~RRED BY DAME FASHION As STYLE FOR FALL WEAR
OCTOBER BRINGS GRACE
OF FLOWING BLOUSES
FROM OLD FLORENCE

Medieval Styles of Fourteenth Century Are bor-
rowed to Grace Fashionable Woman of Today
+ Newest Smock Was Originally Brought
from East BY Crusaders Who Wore It, Gorge
ously Emblazoned, Over Armor.
nCTOBER brings in its antumnal wake Of fashion ideas
~ for Washington a blouse which originated in
the medieval styles of the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries.
It called jupon and is the 1921 successor of the
ock borrowed from the European peasants few years
ago to adorn every feminine American wardrobe from
Broadway to Main street.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1921-10-02
HOYDENISH ROYAL
MAID CAN AGAIN
RETURN TO SPAIN

She has almost completely recov.
cred from the trouble which caused
her to undergo three operations.
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1921-11-29
Early Shopping

Some may think that it is far cry to the
Christmas shopping season, but a glance at the
calendar will convince the skeptic that the num-
Der of shopping days are not so many as he be-
lieved them to be.
Annually the cry of early shopping IS
sounded, and annually it is disregarded by many
to the injury of their nerves and to the hardship
of the sales forces of the stores.
Dealers have their Christmas goods on their
shelves now. Selections can be made without
much effort The sales forces are fresh and I'M
wearied capable of giving good service, and
eager to please. All the advantages Of early
shopping are with the prospective purchaser. He
has it within his power to obtain what he wants,
with the best service which the stores are able
to give.
In few weeks conditions will be changed.
Stocks will have been picked over. Clerks will
be rushed and will be unable to give the personal
attention which they ordinarily give to custom
ers 1t will be a case of hasty selection with in
adequate service.
One would believe that the many campaigns
for early shopping which have been Waged would
have educated the public to see the advantage Of
the advice Of the merchants.
The wise shopper is the one who begins this
week to do his buying. taking his time, making
his selection, and avoiding the last-day rush.