The New York herald., 1921-10-30
Felt Hat That Is as Piiable as
Velvet Is in the As
tendency.
ny ANNE nIrrENnousE.
tendency,


staff Correspondent Of THE Nrw YonK
HraALp.
PARIS, Oct ID.
TN the mind Of the observer. hats
are not new. but they SO at
= tractive. What moro coulf
women ask?
The first and dominant more OF the
milliners was TO realize that the dress
makers intended to accentuate long
skirts and long waistlincs. AS soon
as the milliners gave recognition to
this knowledge they threw the big hat
into the market. They do not ignore
the little hat, for there Is large part
Of the public which would go un-
hated IL it could not buy something
small.
No one can put their finger on any
certain shape or trimming or material
and say that this, and this alone, is in
first fashion, for the hats that jumble
against each other for first place are
numbered by the dozen.
Certain fashions have been retained.
The observer from America is nom
plussed when she sees features still
running high in fashion over here
which the milliners and dressmakers
have exhausted in America.
In hats, for example, the French
n1illincrs have not released the side
plumage that drips far down over the
shoulder; they have not ceased to put
the Venetian masque veil across the
front Of a tricorne, and they keep soft
felt instead of velvet as the favored
fabric.
The dressmakeres also retain certain
overdone features. The American who
came to Paris to see new fashions at
the August collections raised her eye
browR at the extraordinary usage Of
monkey fur. Not only we're the Dress
makers faithful to il, but so was the
public. The women at Deauville. the
best Of them. wore white capes with
monkey fringe and white gowns edged
with It IN such quantities that il ap-
peared to be a uniform.
Continue 20 Csc FRINGE.
In September, when the smart women
began TO appear In Paris and new hats
and gowns were shown to them, the
observer stiIi saw monkey fringe as well
az all other kinds of fringe. None of
the dressmaking houses was above
using Il.
we, In America, discarded tho silk
variety last November, and as fof
monkey fringe, only the exclr-lves would
wear II because It was done In France
Tho mass OF Americans objected TO It,
II is one kind Of ornan1entation that they
could not be persuaded or cajolcd into
accepting. A monkey was a monkey 10
them, and they did not want TO have one
In the house or wear one on their clothes.
The repugnance seeped through 20 the
slightest vagary OF fashion that included
monkey fur.
The d-essrnaSeres also continued TO
use pleats in panels until September,
until at last they became commonplace.
changed by certain manipulations OF the
fabric II no longer looks like q chemise
nor a monastic robe.
The miIlincrs run into stagnant spots
OF imagination as did the drcssrnakerr.
They show In the most expensive hat
the largo feather or piumago OF some
sort that drops downward from the
inside of the brim to the shoulder or
waist Sometimes this waterfall effect
Is in chenille fringe; again Il In in mar
row velvet ribbon.
IEp 10CL Inat IL l5 tnIi y Ut at 10 AAA"
terestlng to Americans. Every ono
Thought that France would discard II
because IL has been overworked.
There is a type of American who
wears II well. She must look young
even II she is not; she must have a
thin face softly modelled and a thin,
long neck without wrinkles or other
siens OF age. Added to these duallflca-
tons she must be OF the type tina. can
carry extreme clothes without looking
AZ though she had lost her right to
social recognition.
Pastel Colored Felt Hats.
The felt hat which America began TO
discard last February is in tho ascen-
dency over here. 1t Is not worn with a
ceremonial gown, a. q matter of course,
but II fills the world OF society when
over II 10 off duty.
The shape known as 'iolochc' is not