The New York herald., 1921-11-27


M when the season turns from
what is mild to what is
bitter.
They want to know what will serve
for the months that demand two
weaves of material. one that is thick
for the street, one that is thin for the
house.
AS long as we continue to overhead
our rooms we cannot retain street
clothes when we enter the house. Az
long as our winters remain what they
are we cannot wear the same fabrics
under the sky as under the roof. Such
is the problem. Women do not object
unless they have temperaments that
demand strict economy of time as well
as money in dressing.
Most women talk as much OF their
inability to find time to change into
different costumes as they do of the
high price OF clothes and the conse-
quent limitation of thoir possessions.
Acquisitiveness Is a trait that remains
In the nature of woman, but she Is
sadly handicapped in this post
era by the fact that there is moi
enough money in the world to buy the
clothes she wants.
She must deliberately choose from
much that Is offered. The Puritans,
who again attempt to dominate Amer
lea. would say that deliberation which
entails limitation is good for ones soul.
Maybe. We are embarked on so much
that is good for our souls that we are
quite sure history will repeat itself as It
did In the Cromwellian days. for the
moment the stiffness OF Puritanism
was overthrown human nature went
quite mad and induged in clothes and
morals. The wicked continue to read
OF the era with relish.
II Is not Puritanism that Is behind a
woman's limitation In clothes this sea-
son. II Is the price. She must decide
whether she wants to wear cheap
clothes that are In the highest strata OF
fashion or expensive clothes which cost
her 30 much she must continue 10 wear
them when they should have been
thrown Into the discard.
Each woman must choose for herself.
The manufacturers could not live II they
diu not supply vast quantities of the
cheaper grade of clothes which permit
women Of small incomes to follow every
new fashion and to be the first to dis
card II.
But there are women who viii not
dress in such manner They want some
thing that gets into the picture OF the
hour. They do not want to be COM
PEELED TO wear old clothes when skirts
have changed their cut and Jackets are
enlarged into capes.
Fabrics for the winter.
The minds OF inquisitive women tura
70 materials to-day. They ask a hun
.r-,tI .F ~, ,sl, Al 4ufr
the saieslady into their confidence as
20 the best thing t. ouy. They discuss
i;s wearable qualities. its ability to
cLusn. It's tendency to soil, its chances
for remaining IN fashion. They know
the caprices OF the American climate.
They cannot buy clothes with the sure
ness OF the English woman. who roa-
izes Il is the Flanders trenches for her
as far as weather goes and. unlike the
French they cannot look forward TO an
even temperature OF mild days. wet
nights and drizzllng rain to be endured
until the horse chestnut trees begin to
bloom.
The English and the French can dis
card the problem Of the superheatei /
mouse. They have never encountered
that perpieNing condition. The Ameri-
can, on the other hand Is entitled 90
ask these hundred questions about fab
Ics and their colorinr, for she realizes
she must encounter climate In the maxi
ing. judging Il by its caprices. It's alb
normalities and It's utter disregard Of
the calendar.
The European woman says that one
frock is enough for q woman with q
middle income the American knows
that one frock will be too hot as often
as it Is too cold. She must have some
diversity 10 keep WI with the atmcs-
phorc " not with her desire Tor variety.
She therefore asks what is the best
hing To buy and what viii give tho
best service reeartlless OF French fash
Ion. and without suggesting 10 her
ne.fhbor TINT she may be growing
dow dy.
II dom,rnnt thing brought ont Nv
tnc'uutumn collection is the fact that
velvet " 70 play strong part this