The New York herald., 1921-09-25

Luo IFOCk. 1nls lS CTlCK WHICH SlSIS
the name OF Rolande on a frock. There
are 80 many of the French women
dressed by this house that ono realizes
the Importance OF these black frocks de
pending upon their Oriental girdles for
brillancy. Even Rolande, however. as
much as she clings to black, does not
evade the handwriting on the wall. She
also uees the red and orange of the
sunset.
Gold seems to have taken an obscure
position. 1t Is rarely seen. Tho steel
industry should look up. The French
gown collections alone have used an ap-
preciable amount of this metal. The large
rings OF steel will probably spread from
girdlos to other parts of the frock. Other
steel colored metals which IL would take
a metallurgist to define are woven on a
coarse foundation and turned into splen-
did evening wraps Moyneux has made
for an American debutante an evening
wrap Of this metal that might have
served one of the de Medicis. especially
that Catherine who introduced metallic
tissue into the world OF fashion for
wedding gowns.
This evening wrap by Molyneux opens
down the side. has a burnous hood at the
back Is fringed at the lower edge and
Is tied on one shoulder with weighty
cords and tassels of the metal. 1t is
lined with crepe In the color OF alum
mum. There Is no reason to freeze in
It. It Is not necessary to permit 1t to
open over one bare arm and shoulder,
for the side can be turned to the front
with facility. 1t is merely not as smart
nor as original when opened In front. and
IL the debutante OF the year Is similar
to her predecessors she viii not reckon
with snow or north winds. She will
merely DO what is smart
Old Fashions which Persist.
To use steel as Salammbo, who was
the sister OF that Hannibal who crossed
the Alps, used 1t In her gorgeous clothes
may be a new and ruling fashion, but
there are other old fashions that are
advocated In new clothes. One IS the
tunic blouse. Renee. Jenny. Elaine spon-
sor this garment with all the weight of
their power and prestige behind 1t. Renee
let's the blouses reach nearly to the
knees. Jenny fashions them so they ap-
pear beneath the short coat Her Jackets
are short and flaring at the hem, which
gives the tunic an excellent opportunity
to reveal itself, even before the jacket Is
removed. In anticipation OF this. tho
bottom OF the tunic is finished with n
three inch band off,ir OF dyed slynx, OF
thick zephyr. Reree intends her blouses
to be worn under capes and long coats,
or merely fur pieces until the cold
weather sets in. so she uses on them
the ornamentation one would put on n
frock.
The skirts below these tunics reach
nearly TO ankles, and this length IL bal
anced by the hip belt, which holds the
fuYness OF the blouse into such eight
dimensions that the cloth above the
hips is full and sagging. somewhat after
the manner OF peasants blouse.
Eliane Is creating an entire costume
which makes this clipped zephyr a con-
spicuous feature. II Is new kind OF
trimming. 80 watch out for It. II is not
unlike an exceedingly soft sheepskin. II
Is In black or In colo~s and is used In
bands TO outline edges.
These suits OF Eliane's which have
pleased Americans consist Of n skirt.
with tunic OF rough crepe. banded with
the clipped sophyr. a cape that falls
from shoulder to knee, also banded, and
a turban OF zephyr and crepe II is a
convenient thing 10 buy an entire out
fit In one sweep and n is a pity that
the house has not added a blouse to go
with the skirt and cape. The reason for
It's omission Is the preference women
have shown for brilliant tunic biouses
and the lavish display Of them by the
large shops.
SO, here we are, back TO the over
blouse. II Is called a tunln It In spon-
sored by the best designers. 1t is worn
In every color that nature and artifice
have contributed 10 the world. IT is no
longer banded In at the hips. however.
and II often has long sleeves. Its signi-
flcant feature Is its length. is bodily
taken from the blouses Of the peasantry
and was invented to offset the length or
the new long skirt