Evening star., 1921-12-27
New Jackets Of White Wool
ny ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

What season 1t has been for
wrapping up. Not the warmest
winter weather induced women to
appear in the streets without fur
coats. Surely the furriers must have
reaped a harvest this season. Neck
pieces have not been half as popular
as they were. because every woman
seems to have set her heart on a
fur coat. and gotten it.
Muskrat. civet cat, undyed caracat.
raccoon, squirrel and all the other
animals that might have enjoyed life
and liberty If women had not plned
to be fashionable supply these COW
erinGs. The climate has had nothing
to do with the wearing of fur. One
often pitied women for the burden
they carried in sultry days until
realization of the fact that the burden
was slef-imposed wiped out pity.
The dressmakers feel that the mad
ness for fur coats this season has
come abouh through the persistence
of the fashion for thin one piece
frocks. Possibly that is the explana-
lion. But women want no explana-
tion for prevailing fashion. The con-
dition. not the reason. is the only
thing that interests. So, when the
word went forth that this was to be
a season for peltry. the rumor was
of moro Importance than any pro-
phecy Of the weather man.
Among these coats came ermine,
not for the streets. but for the even
ing. and in its trail brought a new
fashion for warm, white wooden coats
for the streets. The action is auda
cious. One has never been expected
to sally forth in the cold weather
with @ SNOW white Jacket for pro-
lection. Dark colors have been the
tDv, fsr ,tDf fnN
think Of breaking II. They must
break it now. White jackets are
smart. They present q contrast to
what has gone before.
France started the fashion after
she found thut her women were loath
cold. So the dressmakers tried them
with white and Inauve. and they
have accepted both. The combination
of white with black has no novelty.
but the shaggy white coat worn over
a one-piece gown of black satin ar
rests attention.
Broadcloth is the fabric used when
hairy materials are not preferred.
The trimming is of fur or Angora.
sometimes of those zephyr loops that
were brought into fashion last sum-
mer to initiate astrakhan. a woman
who wants to make the jacket more
striking. puts deep cuffs and collar
Of black fur. When such jacket
is placed over a black frock and a
hat of white and black is added, the
magpie effect is complete.
The fashion or passion for sirdles.
whichever one wishes to call it, is
expressed through a deep belt placed
on the coat as a separate thing. or
embroidered or braided on it. The
former method is better for the econ
omist. Those who work with clothes
prefer to make the girdle directly
on the material. This is done in
gowns. The crystals. galloon. or braid
can be patterned in a fantastic man
ner when the garment is there to
work on, but the woman who buys
it is apt to tire of a conspicuous
girdle after the first urge of desire
for it has gone and she finds herself
unable to remove it. Clever women
are wary of too much handwork on a
garment for this same reason.
There are short white rabbit
jackets for women. which are remi-
niscent of the cradle-to-school-de
period. Black fur is added to these
and a colorful oriental effect is given