Evening star., 1921-04-22

swings it's waves and currents in a
different direction from the usual is
sure of sufficient prestige to snatch
4 pocketful of money.
The public was not especially de-
lighted with the idea of rebelling
against the bodice and skirt of the
same material, either cut in one piece
or Joined at the waistline under a
broad sash of the same color as the
rest of the frock. Persistence in an
full, and the few French designers
who held to their rebellion won out
Now the frock built up of two or
three materials and colors is accepted
as normal.
Two French designers in special put
emphasis upon the bright blue bodice
annexed to the black skirt. This
combination appeared to please the
public more than the other expert
ments. Some Of these bodices were
the one in the sketch. were run down
to the hips. creating a straight line
between. To this lower edge the
skirt was gathered with more OF less
severity.
This particular gown of today's
sketch has several points of i'm
portance. First. there is the unusual
length Of the skirt. which nearly
sweeps the ankles. Second. there is
the lace cape which forms deco
rative background to a sketchy bodice.
One feels that the cape is sorely need
ed. 1t tries to disguise itself as a
pair Of sleeves. for it is caught at
the wrists to bracelets of jet. This
harmony with the black satin skirt.
which is surmounted by a blue bodice
The recrudescence of the cape is
amazing. The whole land is swept
by it: From the small pointed shawl
of black crepe de chine. with it's
fringed edges. the immense Spanish
embroidered shawl, folded double and
made to serve as do1man, to the
gathered cape surmounted by a fur
collar that does not touch the neck.
every kind of cape is in the running.
The streets are filled with them and
the women who like the idea retain
their filmy capes in the evening.
1t is to be expected that the even
will bear witness to the fashion.
Gowns Of simple blue serge have short
James the First capes. lined with
striped directoire silk, attached to
the bodice so that the wearef cannot
escape the style; and princess frocks
Of sequins have capes Of sea-green
and sea-blue tulle floating over the
bare neck and shoulders.
The quite fashionable idea is to cut
a negligible bodice to a frock and
or tulle edged with bullion fringe;
this is dropped over the upper part
Of the figure and secured to the
shoulders with canoes or medaIIions
of colored cryst ais.
Reverting to the fashion for the
opposition OF two strong colors in
one frock. there is this much to be
said concerning the orange bodice
and the brown skirt. or any such
combination Of colors. The EFFORT to
persuade women to wear the coieyed
sharply pointed bodice Of the Dresden
shepherdess has become weaker and
weaker but the designers appear to
be quite willing to compromise on
the straight line to the hem IL women
will accept the sixteenth century
fashion Of mingling colors.
Once upon a time. and not so long
ago as generations run. women
thought 1t tho height Of artistry to
attach a brilliant blouse. boned and
lined. to = sweeping black skirt. To
day they. approach the same fashion,
minus the bones. with trseidatien'
They have bseeme lazy in dress:ns,
al veMen: .h!eh T. the reaeen the
to launch any ethsr Kind Of EoWn.
successfully. than the girdled chemise. |