The Rock Island Argus and daily union. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1920-1923, 1921-04-18
Frederic Haskin's Letter
Tsuo Thousand Years Of Style.

Washington, d. c., April is
Those who condemn modern fash
ions and shudder to think what is
coming next, could find food for
considerable thought and some
comfort in . review Of fashion his
tory which 10 being shown here.
The models are 1856 dolls belong
ing to Mrs. c. H. Wright Of Pitts
field, Mass, and the costumes are
faithful reproductions Of old prints
selected to illustrate the progress
Of European fashion.
The extremes of clothes history
are jokingly represented by Mother
Eve in . very enveloping fig leaf.
and 'merrie vamp" in a yellow
silk. backless, armless evening
gown. In between, the real COL
lection begins at 800 A. D. and
touches the high spots Of European
styles down to 1915.
At first glance, the visitor is apt
to regard the full, flowing skirts.
the fischus, and enveloping sleeves
as models Of dress propriety. Here
are long rows Of china damsels
covering q range Of 1000 years Of
fashion, and not a sleeveless arm
or silk clad knee visible.
Closer inspection. however,
brings to mind details that leave
one doubtful if the old days were
the best. The iron corset that
made possible the wasp waist, the
bobbing pannier that coquettishly
consumed bolts Of cloth, the coal
scuttle bonnest that hid the face
Of the wearer as in . tunnel, are
picturesque antiquities now. But
transpose any one of them to Fifth
avenue or Main street and the
dress reformers would leave the
short skirt chase cold to make war
on the Few evidence Of fashions in
creasing depravity.
If the little red-haired doll rep
resenting Queen Elizabeth, or the
bewigged figure of Marie Antoinette
were to step out Of line, come down
from the table, and suddenly
change from their 15-inch height to
life size, there would scarcely be
space for any one else in the room.
The fluffy blue panniers worn by
the Marie Antionette doll are kept
in place by a basket of straw
worn beneath the skirt. When the
grand danes Of the court wished to
be seated, the basket had somehow
to be removed, as it was impossible
to make 1t collapse satisfactorily.
Clumsy Clothes.
Imagine the society debutante
checking her pannier scaffolding
at a dance, or a street car aisle bill
lowing like bargain counter with
piles Of organdie and georgette
crepe. Imagine, If you can, one of
Madame de Pompadour's head
dresses towering pompadour
carefully constructed with an extra
story of flowers and tulle, and a
steeple of plumes above that, the
whole structure measuring six feet
in height. Imagine yourself try
ing to see the comedian cavort
over that kind of headgear, and the
| modern ear muff and the Fiji Is
land bob" pale into triviality.
Farther back in the historic line
OF dolls in French model of the
twelfth century with a tall funnel
or cornucopia on her head. This
was the day of the hennin. One in
the Wright doll collection is about
six inches tall, or nearly half the
height Of the doll This head deco
ration in life size would measure
three feet. From the tip, a veil Of
lace falls to the ground and forms
a train. The hennin became q
thing of extreme extravaganza, bott
as to size and expense. Jewels
lace, and yards Of rich materia
were put into the hennins, until the
mayors of some French towns or.
dered them collected in the public
square and burned. That was &
blow to the hennin, but the womer
of fashion found solace in sleeve.
and hoops. By Catherine de Medi
els time, in the 18th century, WON
! ems sleeves we're padded to make
them stand out like huge sausages
The men, too, adopted padded
sleeves and trousers, partly fol-
style, and also as a protection
against rapier thrusts.
Catherine de Medici and Queer
Elizabeth are both shown in tn,
doll collection wearing their favor
lite rufus. Here again there was ex
cess. Rufus finally became so ridic
ulously large in Elizabeth's cour
that the queen was alarmed ant
angry at the efforts OF her courtier.
to Guido one another. To stop tn,
rufus progress she issued a deere,
limiting the size Of ruffs and ap
pointed officers who were to devot,
all their time to investigating viola
lions Of the edict and clip an,
rufus exceeding the size limit
Generally a decree or any effor
suddenly to curb extravaganza il
dress has only caused the fire t.
break out somewhere else. Royalt,
set the fashion and could ban o.
encourage certain tendencies O
style as 1t liked. But among them
selves the courtiers tried to outd,
one another Just as the moderl
fashion followers do.
In all these centuries Of the mid