The New York herald., 1921-08-14
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

TIME milliners. 1t would seem,
need to spend little time study
Ing the fashion plates of 1850
and 1860 for inspiration.
You may prate about your EN-
press Eugene and your mid-Victorian
clothes and even prophesy that we are
going to return to a period Of greater
cirCumspection and decorousness along
with wider and longer skirts, but you
would doubtless be vexed beyond words
II your nilliner offered you a hat that
the hats that were in vogue when
Eugene encouraged the ingenuity of
milliners in Paris and Victoria frowned
upon fashion novelties in England.
Frankly we prefer almost anything
to the hats of our grandmothers. Their
quaintness seems prim:. what might
once have been looked upon as chic
and style, only seems to Us like ap-
surdity and grotesqueness.
We would far rather go to China for
inspiration. The little round hat, high
est in the middle, worn by Cinnamon,
has given Lewis inspiration for one of
his most attractive hats for autumn.
Traces of the inspiration of the Rus
sian headdress are still discernible.
Every conceivable Spanish hat has
been inspected for millinery inspira-
ton. The Italians bersaglieri. with It's
dropping cocks feathers. Is closely fol-
lowed In line and detail There are
evening hats and headdresses that
show clearly Egyptian inspiration
Egyptian at least as the stage has in
terpreted that adjective.
But deliver US from the hats OF our
grandmothers.
Marin Guys New Hat.
Possibly there should be one excep-
ton Maria Guy will brave our preju-
dice. Not yet. but very soon, she prom
fses. she will bring out twentieth CEN
tury version of the amazoue worn by
Eugenie in 1860. 1t seems logical to
Maria Guy that IL we wear Eugenie
frocks we should find Eugenie hats be-
coming with them. We ehall see.
A prediction that you hear often Is
that II skirts are going to be longer. hats
will be larger. That skirts are becoming
longer-though more gradually than you
may have expected-is no more a matter
OF doubt. and the tendency on the part
OF hats Is to increased size. But there
can be no therefore about It. Perhaps
the laws Of right proportion would couple
short skirts with small hats and long
skirts with large ones. But even cur
sorry glance through the history Of ferni-
,,tx obi a. hQrtr 70 -
thia
When skirts were at their widest and
longest in Eugenie's reign. women some
times wore hats that when we unpack
them from old garret trunks to-day look
like dolls hats And in the earlier nine
teenth century. when skirts we're short
short and broad-there were hats with
wide brims and enormous outstretchings
of feathers
What ChanGesf
Though thore is undoubtedly some
correspondence between dress fashions
and hat fashions, Il Is not so simple as
10 seems. II cannot be worked out as one
would work out an algebraic problem.
Just al present miliincrs are absorbed
in the change in the trend Of trimming.
What. they call the high trim is to su-
persede the droop trim. That In. we shall
fan the air with our feathers and point
toward heaven. instead OF sweeping our
own shoulders and pointing toward
China But this change Is not very d.
rectly related to any change in dress sill
houette. In a general way the dress
mode and tho hat mode are related
they arc influenced by the same changes
and conditions. Sometimes the miliiners
take the lead and sometimes the dress
makers. Certainly neither blazes the
trail for the other TO follow.
There fs this changer tendency 20
change - In the placing OF trimming.
there are ever so many little novelties
In trimmings. there are new shapes But
in the essentials, the features that mark
this epoch OF hats from those Of the
nineteen hundreds or the eighteen
eighties, there 10 no change. For hats
still fit over our heads. The crown OF
the hat actually encircles the crown OF
che head. Moreover. hats are placed
etili forward on the head. They still
shade the eyes Mt an angle that would
have looked idiotic or intoxicated to
women twenty years ngo.
Some times. Of course, we must wear
our hats toward the back Of our heads
Bgnin. The laws of change that char
actcrize fashion---but no more 30 than
politics, or taste In art or manners---wlll
eventtfhllv lead US back 20 the hat worn
off the forehead. But II will take a