Evening journal., 1921-10-19

justice could be done to the subject In an
entire chapter.
Second to no other vogue in smartness
and before all Others in versatility is the
coat-frock, and the occasions OF its correct
ness are limited only by the dates of the
social calendar. 1t is featured in many
different models-tailored or semi-formal,
straight, 5ioused, with cape back, touches
of fur, cascades of fringe. etc.
Broadcloth in one of the new check
patterns is used for a striking model with
straight silhouette. There is a plain
foundation consisting OF long-waisted
blouse and skirt, which serves as a back
ground for a sleeveless overdress which is
slashed in a deep V at the front. The
fronts are then underfaced and rolled
back with a standing collar which is
trimmed with fancy braid buttons. The
button arrangement is repeated on either
side Of the front, while the fulness is held
in with narrow band Of velvet ribbon.
The sleeves, which reach almost to the
wrists, flare widely and are faced with
silk to correspond with the collar, revers
and vestee.
There is no doubt Of the popularity Of
the coat-dress, for not only is it becoming
to slender figures, but It slenderizes stout
figures as well. There's a point worth
remembering il one is stout-make the
y-shape vest long and narrow. This rule
is invariable with designers who know
the technique of artistic dressing and who
study to make their creations approved
by the women who wear them. The new
French broadcloth Is used for still another
coat dress Of distinguished appearance.
/ The color is dark gray The dress has an
open front finished with an inset chemi-
settle which closes at the center-front.
Il is built upon a foundation either Of
silk or less expensive lining and over this
the two-piece skirt is laid in plaits. Collar
and belt are Of self-material, but with
nearly all OF the coat-dresses, handsome
furs are worn.
One could talk indefinitely about this
type OF dress, just as one fingers in the
salons where the new models are dis
played in such gorgeous, yet refined
variety. Satin figured serge plays its
part in the development OF the coat-dress,
for it is serviceable as we'll as go6d-looking.
A design that may have either a round or
square neckline with collar Of contrasting
material, is carried out in the new serge, the
waist having an open front finished with
a long, narrow vestee OF self-material
Black silk braid outlines the front, the
straight girdle and the flowing sleeves
With the figured materials, plain braid'
are generally used, while embroidered and
otherwise-decorated braids are employed
TO embellish fabrics of plain color anC
smooth surface.
For the elegant Autumn tailleur, tri
cotine offers perfect smartness. There
comes a splendid model in midnight blue
with long jacket and straight gathered
skirt. The revers Of the jacket are cut
long, and for the sake OF novelty, ther,
are two pockets on either side Of the front
instead Of one. Tun-back cuffs trim tn,
long, close-htting sleeves, and the belt may
be of self-material or of rich embroidery
Since wraps stand out among the essen
tial garments Of the fashionable ward
robe when one is planning a little while
ahead, it is well to take note Of the lovely
new coats, fashioned in soft, pile fabrics ol
unusually rich coloring. Dark gray and
brown are in great demand, being quite
as fashionable as black and blue, also
equally serviceable These coats are
wearable on all occasions, in many in
stances corresponding with the color OF
the tailleur or one-piece frock over which
they are worn.
Items Of big interest in their develop
ment are the high, choker collars and deep
cuffs, to say nothing OF novel sleeve
arrangements. Since the fashionable
tendency is toward large sleeves for dresses,
this style note must necessarily be re-