davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23
a. Dainty GoIIar OF 30
~ SOr,4andy- end Lice

hands. Tailored combinations of linen
are to be had, with dainty edge trim
ming Of cluny lace, and some of these
combinations are Of crossbarred
madras and dimity.
New nightgowns have cap sleeves,
or no sleeves at all. The shoulder
strap models seem to be in special
demand though how any one can be
comfortable in shoulder strap
nightie except in midsummer, it Is
hard to understand. Sleeve treatment
is one Of the things that mark new
nightgown. Sometimes there is cap
sleeve made of pleated lace. Some
times the lace is made into a quaint
little 1890 puff at the top of the arm.
other models have lace caps under
the arm, ribbon straps crossing the
arm and holding the cap in place.
And. there are triple strap arrange
ments made Of ribbon in three deli
cate shades, like pale blue, mauve and
canary, or jade, turquoise and rose.
Two-tone ribbons are being used on
the new underwear. The ribbon may
be pale blue on one side, pale pink
on the other, or in combination Of
n1auve and daffodil, or jade and ca
mary. Inc -TlDDOn DOWS on the pic
tured nightgown are of two-tone rib
bon in pale blue and pink, and there
are several gay little bowkonts on
yoke and sleeves. This nightgown is
made Of white crepe de chine and has
an Empire yoke, tucked across the
front and trimmed with set-fn inser-
tons Of Normandy Val. The sleeve
bows drop under, not over the sleeve
edge, which is pretty idea. The gown
slips over the head as all nightgowns
do these days. There is line of hem
stitching at the foot and this Is fea-
ture of new nightgowns styles-the
lower edge is never neglected. Either
there is a hemstitched hem, or there
may be ruff1e, lace-edged and set
on with q beading.
Step-in chemises have the favor now
and are better liked than the envel-
ope-chemise. The step-in has a neat
ness and trimness on the figure which
the envelope model lacks. Sometimes
the step-in is worn over the corset,
its upper part taking the place of a
camisole. and sometimes it is worn
under the corset with no other gar
ment next the skin. When it Is worn
outside the corset the first garment
donned is usually a short chemise OF
batiste, silk or silk Jersey. The very
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23
~Cr6andy COIlar 4nd Cuff~ Sci
ErnbroideredM with Wool1sS.

front and with a head
| of the front may not be pulled awry)
down to tiny modesties to tuck into a
| " shaped decolletage that one desires
little higher, and fronts" as they
are called in the shops. What you
may mean Is a vestee, but II you ask
! the salesperson for a front" you will
be likely to get what you want.
The sleeveless guimpes are cool and
comfortable under a tailored jacket on
warm day-but, OF course, you cam
not take off your Jacket. And you are
not supposed to remove the jacket
when 1t is worn with a vestee or
"front". But a great many of these
false fronts-one cannot quite help
calling them that-will be worn with
summer tailleurs Of canton crepe or
linen, or with sport skirts and sweat
ers: and the fronts" are really so con-
might as well join the procession.
Three styles are pictured. A collar
and yestee of embroidery insertion and
lace. An elaborate vestee of fluted
Val. and net, with collar to match.
And a modified eton collar Of hand
embroidered handkerchief linen and
VAL. with an embroidered panel
front" edged with Val. A smart lit
tie bow Of black MORE ribbon COM
pletes the eton collar suggestion.
Very exclusive "fronts" for wear
with the little spring Jackets cut on
loose lines, are Of sheer linen lawn
with hand hemstitching and scallop-
Ing. A vestee of the sort rises high to
the throat where there is turnover
eton collar. The little frill-hand seal
loped--on this collar turns and runs
down the front at either side of a row
Of buttons and buttonholes. The frill is
very full and very crisp and stands
out perkily, the velvet ribbon necktie
hiding itself between the frills from
collar to bustline. Elbow cuffs, also
with frills, como with this set-for
many Of the new suit Jackets have
elbow or three-quarter sleeves. Ex-
elusive also are kid vestees piped and
embroidered in bright colors. And
scarlet is the shade OF shades In a
vestee, though the bright red is added
In touches not In bulk. There are
vestees Of duvetyn lined with satin in
contrasting shade--and you can wear
-
your vestee either side out. az the
mood strikes you. The dove gray
duvetyn side may please you with your
dark blue tailored suit on one day. and
another occasion may seem to call for
the satin side, with gorgeous red and
silver embroideries on peacock blue.
Organdy Sets Embroidered With Wool
One of the illustrations shows coll
lar and cuff set of ecru organdy en-
brofdered with white posies and a lat
tice work Of black. This is decidedly
smart. for ecru neckwear is particu-
larly fashionable, and black and white
effects In neckwear are also favored.
Dainty collar and cuffs sets Of white
organdy have pleated frills Of orchid
organdy and on collar and cuffs are
purple pansies embroidered with wool.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23
HANG YOUR WATCH AROUND YOUR NECK NOW

ivory framed with onyx has the watch
set in one side and on the other is
quaint tnlaid figure OF onyx. Another
watch appears, on the side opposite
the dial, to be q tiny tanbourine made
Of ivory, with Jewels at the edge in
stead of tinkling cymbals. The dial
OF the watch is no larger than a ten
cent piece and the watch is sunk in
the tambourine at one side. A very
ornamental watch pendant is in the
shape of Maltese cross, made of
onyx inlaid with diamonds and pearls.
The watch dial Is at the center Of ~
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

~ EALLY exclusive indies are of
. soft silk, or of sheer handker-
chief linen. Muslin underwear
and even batiste underwear are
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

and even batiste underwear are
still worn, but every woman has to
have special sets Of the finer sort or
feels that her wardrobe is incomplete.
The new underwear is also very elab-
crate, with honeycombing and edging
of fine lace. Nun-like garments with
no trimming but little scalloping and
a few eyelets of hand embroidery are
quite out of style and one must have
lace trimmed garments. now.
The favored laces are Calais, Venise.
Cluny, filet, VAL, needlepoint and
Irish crochet. Some garments are SO
covered with beautiful lace that
scarcely. any plain fabric Is visible,
and naturally these lacy belongings
will not give very good service If sent
to an ordinary laundress. They must
be dry-c1eansed or washed with ut
most care by an expert maid. So they
are not for the average woman. ex-
cept as special "for best. sets OF un-
derwear. Most Of these fairy-like
undies are fashioned Of Georgette
crepe. with costly lace set in by hand.
Soft creepy silks are fancied for night
gowns and pantaloons. but Georgette
for chemises Of high degree!
Linen undergarments are quite as
fashionable as silk ones-and twice as
durable. The linen indies are trimmed
mostly with cluny or filet. and some
times with venise lace. Hand en-
broidery appears on these garments.
hut hand embroidery is not SO fash
ionable now on lingerie as it was.
Lace is the thing.
Many of the women who have gone
south for the winter season have
taken with them sets Of the tailored
"athletic" underwear - garments
shaped to fit feminine figures but cut
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

q UST when everybody has formed
the habit of looking sideways at
- a watch attached to her wrist,
locket watches are coming in and now
one will have to learn the time upside
down, unless one chooses to lift the
iocket. Fob watches are fashionable
also in Paris. but whether the watch
swings from a fob or from ribbon
around the neck. swing it must; and
not anchor itself to the wrist. So de-
cides Madame Mode. And ordinary
watches are entirely out OF 1t now;
all sorts OF shapes in timepieces are
fancied. An octagonal pendant OF
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

They have come back to fashion to-
gether, at any rate, just as they depart
ed a few years ago. The fluttery jabot
saves the close stock from being too
stiff and severe-that is the reason Of
course. In Paris most women now
are wearing tall collars and some Of
these collars are stiffened with tiny
whalebone supports. There is a GER
tain tidy smartness about the high
collar which a low collar never pos
sesses, becoming as it may be, and
women who can wear the tall, stiff
collar comfortably will be quick to
adopt it this season.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23
Sometimes collar and vestee are of net,

Sometimes collar and vestee are Of net,
with wool embroidery. "A rather Curl
Gus combination is that of camisole
and front, the panel Of embroidered
net hanging from the top Of the cam
isole, which is supported in the usual
way by shoulder straps of ribbon. This
hybrid garment is actually to be seen
in the shops. One is supposed to don
the camisole, with its fancy vestee
hanging down the front; put on a
tailored skirt: don the. Jacket belong
ing to the skirt and behold-all ready
for the promenade! Most women, one
is sure, would prefer their vestees at
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

plain as plain can be. Most women
like this tailored underwear very we'll
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

They find the garments cool, comfort
able and certainly practical when II
comes to endurance in a 1aundress
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1921-05-23

american Women Cling To-
Low Collars In Spite Of
the Paris Fancy for Tall
tocks-Scarlet Touches
OnWhiteNeckWear-OiI-
cloth and Organdy the
Last Word The Boyish
Eton and Windsor Tie for
Younger Women.
The New York herald., 1921-11-14
WOMEN'S SOCIETIES
PLEDGE AID TO PLAN
Fifteen American OrganiZa-
tions Hold a Big Meeting and
Approve Proposals.
Special Despatch to THE NEW YORK HERALD
New York Herald Bureau.
Washington, ID. C., Nov. I3.

~~~"@-----~'
New York Herald Bureau.
Washington. ID. C., Nov. l3.
That the women OF the world are
unitedly behind any programme leading
toward pea. and limitation Of arma-
ment was &C 1clusively demonstrated at a
mass meeting held here to-day by rep
resentatives OF fifteen organizations OF
women In the United States to voice
their support OF the proposals Of Presi-
dent Harding and Secretary of State
Hughes and to pledge themselves TO
work for the success of the Conference
on Limitation of Armament.
Greetings from eighty-eight organiza-
tions representing over 1000 900 British
women were read by Mrs. Maud Wood
Park, president of the National League
Of Women Voters, and Miss Kate Mani
com of the British Workers Union, who
arrived last week. delivered the message
of the International Congress of Work.
ing Women. representing forty-eight ma
tons. which recently assembled in Ge-
neva at the call of Mrs. Raymond
Robins. president of the Women Trade
Union League.
Japan was represented by Mime. va
jima, the aged teacher and temperance
worker. and by Miss Marian Irwin, who
delivered the message Of Nine. Inouye
of the Women's Peace Associa ion of
japan.
Tba meeting was opened by Mrs. ].
Borden Hartman and the speakers in
cluded Miss Julia Lathrop. formerly
head of the Children's Bureau: Mrs.
Harriet Taylor Upton of the Republican
e ~ point at issue; all we ask Is that
the four women members of the ad-
visory committee to the American dele
cation In the international conference,
Mrs. Thomas G., Winter, Mrs. Charles
Sumner Bird. Mrs. Katherine Phillips
Edison and Mrs. Eleanor Franklin Egan.
Though expressing entire confidence
that q solution Of Far Eastern ques-
tions would be found, Mrs. Edison. voiced
the attitude OF the Pacific Coast wher
she urged the audience to remember the
special problem of California and the
other States and British dominion.
bordering on the Pacific.
Mrs. Mary Church Terrell. wife OF
Judge Robert Terrell, spoke for tire
negro women. Mrs. Glen l.. Swiggett
for the American Association Ct Jni-
versity Women, aDd Mrs. G3srs~ May
nard Minor foT the DaugSsGi . of tre
American Revolution, in whose Me-
mortal Costr-aal Hall the e,Fn ses-
sions of lie Confsy. nee on Limitation OF
ArmamcSt are b4sg -uld.
No greater Sisseryei, Mrs. =. Minor
said, covsd De done to the work of Sle
conference .than TO ask % expect from
It. immediate and complete satnament
Its work, she reminded the audience
was TO limit armament wit$n the
bounds of national safety of the countries
represented. and 20 seek international
agreements that will reduce the posi-.
>.lity Of was.
The New York herald., 1921-11-14

dish set out for me forever in the
Elysian fields. an neither entranced
nor estate. But / soberly state that
OF all the counciIs men nave held tc
find way to quit Staying and maiminR
one another have Iever seen one begin
more graciously, 18th so little spleen.
did you see hoy tire delegates and
their STATS fraterrized before the OPEN
! ing? There are siU.s OF good VIII ano
toleration on all a'des with politeness
and something denrer than politeness
shining through t'r, proceedings. Look
! ing at 1t as an OIL, timer | should say
that these peaceTa6ers starr IN Jus'
the right way to get somewhere. IL is
the right way to start II the conferences
intends to dominate. countries ipsteao
OF letting itself be Dominated. Here are
lights strealSing through the darkness.
at Versailles there was that darkness
@hich may be fel
"Take the Presidents dinner last
night. happy climax of Say Of frank
ness and friendliness. unfnrgettabie pic
ture, perhaps the most important sociai
affair held In the White House In many.
many wears. l was there. CT course; tne
most conspicuous decoration In the wal
nut panelled state dining room that q
very real friend of mine, Theooore
Roosevelt, Sornamented with trophies.
Looking over the gorgeous gold Doiiy
Madison plateau in the centre OF tne
table, what impressed me most OF an
rhe all around friendly feeling, Jap
anese included.
Everybody seemed to like everypooy
else. This was a dry" banquet, but
have seen champagne flowing at diplo-
matte feasts where there were no such
evidences of good comfy. Observe the
spirit of the visiting around to-day and
Yesterday the calls made by the Ameri-
| cans on the British. French, Italians,
Japanese. Belgians. Hollanders, Chinese,
| Portuguese. and the reciprocal interchanges
Fine spirit, all of It. Little pomp. No
more fuss and feathers than can be dis
pensed with for the sake OF dignity
and respect to nGtionalities. Good
humored nicely pitched. businesslike.
"I see that programme of dinners
and receptions has been arranged TOT
week to come to carry on just this at
titude. Much of the real work of the
conference will be in the private con-
vcntions at these social affairs. They
are to be something more than relaxa'
tions and diversions of the delegates.
Business will be doi.e that way in thu
same fashion that business men settle
large affairs over a quiet luncheon.
Opening IL a Carnival.
'"To the people here and to the visi-
tors. three or four thousand. aside from
the officially accredited guests, the open
| ing of the conference is carnival.
violated one of the principal rules OF the
doves union last night when I flew In
| the darkness to Seventeenth street and
| II gorgeous illuminations. I found $4,000
| reopIe there between and II o'clock
to drink in the color of the lights along
the Mall. to delight in the streams OF
| light flowing up the whostly monument
/ to the memory of Washington, md 10
| marvel at the changing shafts of the
searchlights that crossed and -ecrossed
The New York herald., 1921-11-14

each other over Potomac Park and shout
upward toward the stars. There were
fifty thousand there, all interested.
happy. hopeful. and the notes of their
confidence In the conference came plainly
TO me as floated over them. ! shall go
there again tonight. the last night of
the illumination. to see anothsr $4,000.
"A host city Is ornamented moro by is
attitude than by a profusion D. flags.
yet Washington offers a pleasing COM
radeship of colors to the eyes of he
visitors from overseas. / see that the
Government buildings show the flags of
all the comforting nations. ss do many
of the principal buildings. II there cou'i
be criticism 1t is that there should be
more flags. especially away from rhe
centre of the city. A very pretty flag
to show Is the japanese flag.
Tomorrow" said the Dove OF Peacs.
politely closing the interview. II scall
visit the various embassies, particularly
the Japanese and the British. TO see how
they take the Hughes proposition. There
will be many conferences as a orelim-
mary to the reopening OF the conference
here on Tuesday morning at IL o'clock.
I shall be busy. Au revoir, mon ami, as
the politest people In the world do say"
The New York herald., 1921-11-14
No Authority to President.

Constitutional authorities here agree
that without specific authorization from
Congress the President would have no
authority to scrap naval vessels in such
numbers as the Hughes plan contem-
plates. The navy Is continually scrap
ping obsolete and worn out ships, but
that is done with the tacit approval of
Congress.
1t may be stated on the highest au-
thority that President Harding will not
take any step to reduce the size of the
navy without the full and hearty ap-
proval of Congress.
The form which the agreement be-
tween the nations will trle Is still a
matter OF conjecture. # 4 should be a
treaty the Senate VIII have to ratify
1t by a two-thirss vote before 1t is
made effective.
There have bee suggestions In off,
'cial quarters that an "xnder< tanding"
might be reached ',etweer representa-
tives of the varlnrs nations at the
conference. which would not be put In
the form of trea v but which would be
carried out by mrtua consent The
desirability of binding each nation to
carry out the agreement might, hovs-
ever. make a treaty seem advisable. In
any event It is understood to be the
opinion of the h.sSrlcan Government
that the plan for uava reduction should
have the approval CT the pcople or the
legislative bodies OF japan. Great Britain
and the United States b-fore an at
tempt is made to carry It out.
The New York herald., 1921-11-14

am beginning TO believe that this con-
ference may produce a gage of real Sc
curity and happiness for the world. II
starts right. Possibly the same thinl
may be said about a peace conference
hat Dc. johnson said about Scotch
man: Much may be made of II II yot
catch It young
Studying the faces OF the delegat Is
as Hughes sank billion dollars worth
of battleships was treat sweeter thar
young corn. / caught In the SHINING
black eyes of Prince Tokugawa ano
Admiral Baron Kato an excitement theii
otherwise inscrutable features veiled.
saw the eyelids OF the placid Balfour. toe
old and experienced to be moved by
small things, slowly lift In fixed intent.
ness.
II saw Admiral Lord Beatty and Lord
Lee of Fareham stare In astonishment
as they simultaneously hitched forward
In their chairs perceived the elec-
trifcation in the eyes OF BRAND and
Jusserand translated In whispers.
noted the kindling interest OF the Cana
dians the Australians and the New Zea-
ianders. And everybody must have been
aware of a sudden. healthy Inflammation
of the whole conference as Hughes
poured new blood into old arteries. II
was jubilant hour for this old dove
/ havo always thought Disraeli was
right; there Is no wisdom like frankness
but it has been life weary task to get
human beings to see It
Publicity Feature.
Speaking OF frankness, blessed my
stars to see 30 many reporters about
800 In he conference, twice that many
waiting to catch the echoes Truly the
gallery in which the reporters sit has
become the fourth estate Of the realm.
There are forty Japanese here, more
than from any other country except
America There are British reporters
who are Lords and Lord or two who Is
a real reporter. And besides the pro.
fessionals from all nations there are
novelists. ministers of the Gospel, ever
few statesmen, all observing. listen.
ing. for the benefit OF an intent anG
hopeful world.
The best of II, I note In the embas
sies at the White House with my good
friend, the President, at your State De-
partment and at the hotels among The
counsellors and advisers. Is disposition
to talk straight to the press That wa!
gladness lies. it seems to me. hecauss
openness must be a natural reflection Of
the spirit OF the conferees 1t Is very
different from the mysterious whisper.
ings of Versailles. Another good omen
Macaulay said: Men are never so likely
to settle a question rightly as when they
discuss freely Particularly when they
discuss 1t with the people through the
press
IT don't mind saying feel at home
here in Washington. think al kinds Of
people either like me or are willing tc
try to get on good TENS with me.
am beginning to relish This interna'
tional party. AS for going into rap
lures yet awhile I'M too la q bird foi
that don't ex,,scr to get a COLDER
The New York herald., 1921-11-14
Lloyd George Would Go to
Commons-Japanese Have
Free Hand.
LEAGUE FIGHT RECALLED
Other Nations Will Take No
Chances on Another Senate
Quarrel.
Special Despatch 10 THE NEw York HERALD
New York Herald Bureau,
WnshlngtOn. ID. G.. Nov. IL

New York Herald Bureau.
Washington. ID. C.. Nov. I3.
With Congress will rest the final
decision for the reduction of the Amer
lean Navy in accordance with the
sweeping proposal Of Secretary Hughes
or any other plan agreed on by the
three naval Powers at the arms con-
ference.
If an agreement is reached President
Harding will send a special message
to Congress setting forth its terms and
recommending suitable legislation to
authorize the scrapping of ships. the
suspension OF naval building for ten
years or any other action.
The authority OF Congress In this
regard seems to be unquestioned. The
Constitution specifically declares that
Congress shall provide for the common
| defence" and that It shall have power
ito raise and support armies" and ito
provide and maintain a navy"
The President could make use OF the
veto power against any legislation for
! the construction of naval vessels of
which he disapproved. but even then
Congress could II it had the necessary
votes, override the veto by a two-thirds
vote.
The New York herald., 1921-11-14
Disposition to TalkStraight
to Press Impresses Ideal
istic Bird.
MUCH FRATERNITY SHOWN
Round of Dinners Arranged
for Delegates Regarded as
Hopeful Sign.
Special Despatch 20 THE New YORK HERALD
Xorlx Hara1d Rurea,

opeC1ub DcSpOtCh 70 IHE NEW YORK HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau.
Washington. ID. c., Nov. I3.
The Peace Dove, taxpayers dele
gate very popular and distinguished
nowadays, was solacing the soles Of
her feet upon gilded radiator In
Memorial Continental Hall, Washing
ton weather being arctic, when this
writer interviewed her today.
With the deathless optimism and
humor Of one trained to vicissitudes,
she cooed her impressions Of the con-
ference opening. Considering what she
has gone through with since Noah's
day. the worthy bird seems in fair
feather.
Observe" she belled softly, "my
crop is full for the first time in many
a year. Yesterday l fed upon crumbs
of plain spokenness strewn by Harding
and Hughes and was offered a little
rice, not so puffed as might have been
expected. by Kato and Tokugawa To-
morrow I am invited to peck at Bal
four's and at Brands. Last night,
at the White House, had almost more
than was good for me Of grains of
good will. I am dated weeks ahead
for such generous provender. Had I
not so much experience, I might feel,
like Foch. that they intend to kill
me with kindness, but kindness rcver
kills. am not used to such generous
treatment. Too often there has been
ground glass in my food. When they
fired salutes for me at other confer
ences the guns were loaded and point
ed in my direction.