Pueblo chieftain., 1921-04-18
By Frederic ]. Haskin.

washington, u ~ Apii 10 "'S
who condemn modern fashions and
shudder to think what is coming next
could find food for considerable
thought and some comfort in review
of fashion history which is being
shown here. The models are lS6 dolls
belonging to Mrs, c. II. wright OF
tunes are faithful reproductions OF oid
prints selected to illustrate the pro-
gress of European fashion.
Tho extremes of clothes history are
jokingly represented by Mother Eve
in very enyelopins fIg leaf; ;. and M Il,
less evening gown. In between, the real
collection begins at 800 A d. and
touches the high spots OF European
styles down to 1913.
At first glance. the visitor is apt to
regard the full flowing skirts. the
models of dress propriety. Here are
long rows OF china damsels covering a
range OF 1000 years OF fashion. and not
a sleeveless arm or a SILK clad knee Wis
ible.
Closer inspection, however. brings to
mind details that leave one doubtful
IL the old days were the best. The iron
corset that made possible the wasp
waist, the bobbing pannier what CO.
quettishly consumed bolts of cloth. the
coal SCuttle bonnet tnAt nlu tue idSo
OF the wearer as in a tunnel, are pic
turesque antiquities now. But trans
pose any one OF them to Fifth avenue
or Main street and the dress reform
ers would leave the short skirt chase
cold to make war on the new evidence
Of fashions increasing depravity.
II the little red haired doll repre-
senting Queen Elizabeth. or the be-
wigRed figure OF Marie Antoinette were
to step out Of line. come down from
the table. and suddenly change from
their nfteen-inch height to life size.
there would scarcely be space for any
one else In the room. The fuzzy blue
panniers worn by the Marie Antoinettc
doll are kept In place by basket of
straw worn beneath the skirt When
the grand DANES of the court wished to
be seated, the basket had somehow to
be removed and 1t was impossible to
make 1t collapse satisfactorily.
Clumsy Clothes
Imagine the society debutante check
ing her pannier scaffoldinS at a dance
or n street car aisle billowins like =
bargain counter with piles of organdie
and georgette crepe. Imagine. II you
can. one OF Madame de Pompadour's
headdresses-a touring pompadour
carefully constructed with an extra
of plumes above that, the whole struc-
ture measuring six feet in height
Imagine yourself trying to see the
comedian cavort over that kind OF
headgear. and the modern car muff
and the FIJI Island bob" pale into
trivicality.
Farther back in the historic line of
dolls is a French model OF the twelfth
century with n tall funnel or cornu-
copia on her head. This was the day
of the hcnnin. One in the Wright doll
collection is about six inches tall. or
nearly half the height OF the doll. This
head decoration in life size would
measure three feet. From the tip. a
veil Of lace falls to the ground and
forms a train. The hennin became a
as to size and expense Jewels. lace.
and yards of rich material were put
into the hennins. until the mayors of
some French towns ordered them col
lectcd in tho public square and burned
That was 4 blow to the hennin, but the
women OF fashion found solacc in
sleeves and hoops. BY Catherine dc
Medici's time. On tho sixteenth century.
women's sleeves were padded to make
them stand out like huge sausages. The
men too adopted padded sleeves and
trousers partly for style. and also a.
n protection against rapier thrusts.
Catherine de Medici and Queen Eliza
beth are shown In the doll collection
wearing their favorite runs. Here again
there was excess. Runs finally became
so ridieulously large in Eiizabcth's
court that the Queen was alarmed and
angry at the efforts OF her courtiers To
ou,do one another. To stop the ruff's
progress she issued n decree limiting
tho size of rufYs and appointed officers
who were to devote all their time to
investigating violations of the edlct
and clip any ruYs exceeding the sizc
limit.
Generally n decree or any effort sud
denly to curb cxtravagnncc in dress
has only caused the fro to break out
somewhere clsc. Royalty set the fash
ion and could ban or encourage certain
tendencies OF style as 1t liked. But
among themselves tho courticrs tried to
outdo one another just as the modern
fashion followers do.
In all these centuries OF the middle
ages. and on up TO the French revolu-
ton. only tho leisure class made fash
ion history. II took n woman OF wealth
TO afford dress so heavy that two