Atlanta tri-weekly journal. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1920-19??, 1921-07-12

repeated whenever rainfall make!
this necessary. Remember that The
success in tie use of arsenical sprays
lies in covering or coating the plants
completely. The beetles are wise tc
the effect of the poison and wher
new growth appears they feed on it
Therefore all plants must be cover
ed completely and kept covered.
| Various kinds of sprayers may be
used. For the small garden one of
or gallon capacity will be salts
factory. Such a sprayer may be used
effectively on patches of from one.
half to two acres. On larger. fields
wheelbarrow sprayers or those of the
barrel type handled by two men are
preferable.
Tobacco dust spread around the
roots of the plants frequently may
! be of some advantage as. a proven
tive of beetle attack. Dust guns can
be used for the application of the
dry mixtures If this is considered de-
sirable. Injury to the crop is al.
ways lessened by doing everything
possible to promote "a vigorous
growth of the plants.
Doubtful remedies to use against
the cucumber beetle are Pyrethrum
insect powder, Napthalene in the
form of flakes or camphor balls
Arsenic of lime cannot be recon.
mended for use as spray unless
mixed with Bordeaux mixture Ar
semitic of lime, if used alone, is like
ly to scald or burn the tender foliage
of young cucumber plants. Land
plaster or gypsum, as well as air.
slaked lime, if saturated with kero-
sene or turpentine may prove of some
value as repellent. The trouble is
that the vapor or odor from these
materials disappears very soon.
Early and late planting are Of lit
tie value in fighting this pest, as
there would always be a sufficient
number of these insects to seriously
damage the crop unless they are
successfully controlled, no matter
what time the seeding may be done.
Many useless remedies have been
Esuggested for use against the Gu
cumber beetle. Among these are
charcoal, SCOT, road dust, land plas-
ter, saltpeter, cow manure and
burdock infusion. Hellebore is not
a successful insecticide against this
pest. Those who wish to protect
their crop, whether grown in the
nome garden or on a commercial
scale, should therefore proceed as
follows in view of the light and in
at this time: Protect the young
plants in the garden by effectively
covering them. Plant an excess OF
seed to scatter attacks. Practice
clean cultivation. Spray with arse
nate of lead, arsenate of lime. or
zinc arsenite. Use Bordeaux mix
ture to protect against dungeons
diseases. The growth of the plants
should be stimulated by means OF
manure and other fertilizers. In dry
weather water the plants if practi-
cable.
Starting Bermuda Grass Pas
cure
B.. F. c., Philomath, Ga,
writes, L have an acre OF light,
sandy land inclined to be a little
wet. A part of this acre has pipe
clay subSoil. l have the lot in
oats. Would it be all right to
sow it in peas and sow the Ber-
muda grass seed last and drag
with harrow?
There is no reason why a Bermuda
sod should not. be established from
seed. Much difficulty has been ex-
perienced, however, in securing good
seed OF this grass. A good supply
OF IL mas mad to come from Australia.
sufficient time has now elapsed since
the war, however, as to enable the
establishment of commercial stock,
and no doubt the quality of the seed
is better than that we obtained sew
eral years ago.
would not attempt to seed Ber-
muda grass in an oat field. l think
you should harvest the oats first
and then prepare the land with the
greatest care possible and seed the
grass by itself. 1t takes this grass
about thirty days in which to germi-
nate under favorable conditions 1t
will not terminate readily on wet,
cold land. When establishing Ber-
muda from seed remember that it
will take at least two years to Sc
cure satisfactory sod. Its growth
is slow and disappointing the first
year, and this often leads people to
the conclusion that the seed planted
were no good. If 1 only had small
area to establish in Bermuda grass
and could secure plenty of sets from
nearby location I would use them
planting the sets out in rows, say
two or three feet apart, and placing
each set about eighteen inches apart
in the drill. The closer the, plants
the sooner you will obtain uniform