The New York herald., 1921-02-13

rect ascent of Kabru by Graham. We also
had a good train of Gurkhas already ear
marked What we had not understood,
however was the necessity for full pre-
liminary exploration, which is now amply
made clear.
1T was not to be, however Lord Morley,
the then Secretary of State. was averse to
our entering Tibet at all, as being contrary
to the lately completed treaty with Russia.
Owing to the kindness of Lord Mimic this
expedition was directed to British Carnival.
and resulted, among other things, In the
climbing of Trissul by DR.. Longstreet, the
two Brocherels and Gurkha, Subadar Kar-
bir Burathoki.
"In the following winter / found myself
the guest of Col. Manners-Smith, the Resi-
dent in Nepal, and had several talks with
the Maharajah, the Prime Minister and
Marshal of Nepal who was very much in
terested in last attempt, and, after much
talk, himself proposed a joint Anglo
Nepalese expedition, which should enter
Nepal via Hanuman Magyar and march via
the valley of the Dudh Kos Naturally,
was overjoyed, and, with the assistance Of
Col Manners Smith, approached the Gov
ernment of India the subject. Corre-
spcndence ensued.
II must mention that previous to this the
Nepalese Government had given leave to the
Government of India to send surveyor OF
the Survey Department to explore the upper
Dudh Kosi, and / believe, determine If pos
sible whether Mount Everest was actually
in Nepalese or Tibetan territory This is still
doubtful point But the two passes, the
Pangi La and the Popu La, respectively
twenty miles west and east of the noun
tains, are claimed by the Nepalese. Beyond
that the report of his explorations would
have been of the very greatest assistance
Scope of Expedition Cut Down
To Three Months Rush
Il must mention that Maharajah Sir
Chandra Shamsher Jang, the Prime Minis
ter, though by far the greatest force in
Nepal, is not autocrat, and that he has
to be just as careful of public opinion as any
one else in a similar position. The result was
that, as my preparations proceeded, so was
the scope of the expedition cut down until
was finally reduced to three months rush
across the frontier and a maximum of
twelve coolies. My original proposals had
naturally been for a sufficient, though.
knowing what to expect. not an ample,
outfit.
II promptly accepted, hoping to get at
least Photographic record of the greatest
interest, but seeing that was not to be put
off a final telegram came saying that the
expedition was unadvisable.
Public opinion in Nepal means that of the
kshettriya mobiles, and cannot be despised;
and even though the -Maharajah himself was
in favor of 1t, 1t would have been quite i'm
possible for him to have gone against the in
grained prejudces of his Darbar of that
am certain. But so long had been the nego-
tiations, and so many times had l cut down
my requirements, and yet so near was the
date for my start, that I was actually wait
ing with my modest camp packed when the
final telegram arrived. An outlet was
quired so cut down something else, to w.t.
my leave-could only take a month--and
fastened to Jongri in Sikkim at express
speed in the vain hope of seeing some of the
glaciers that descend from Kabru and Janu.
But my luck was out that year. and not for
moment did the mist lift or the snow and
sleet stop.
Present Project on Broader
Lines Than Those of 1907
"Our present proposal is based on the
same plan that of the 1907 project. but we
intend to go much more thoroughly into 1t.
1t Is hoped to make thorough reconnais-
sance of the upper Tingri Madam and of the
country surrounding the northern slopes of
Everest.
There are certain ridges to be crossed.
The upper course of the Arun River may
also be crossed and our whole outfit and
main base established as near the great
mountain massif as Is possible. We have
also to organize our transport, both men
and animals and II is hoped to train a
team of porters for the exploration of the
upper SHOWS. In some ways the country en-
joys a great advantage. In that 1t Is in all
probability not too difficult for yaks. We
hope by their help to carry our main camp,
or from the main camp to push higher ones
to over 10000 feet, from which point we must
depend on men, and that is one of our most
serious difficulties.
1t does not by any means follow that dur
ing the reconnaissance ways and means OF
approach, camping grounds, aeroplane SER
vice. landing grounds, establishments of
depots. &C.. will be the only work to be done
We must also train and test our teams and
we must also test our men.
"As much as possible of the lower slopes
OF Mount Everest itself should be thoroughly
explored. and Also If possible, the final line
of advance actually determined. We should
see how far we could expect to push our
camps. We have a great deal to do in all
this. but not too much by any means
I'VE know that in not too difficult ground
sufficient equipment can be carried to $4,000
feet because IL has been done more than
once. but against this we know that on the
Duke of Abruzzi's highest climb the pace
of a very strong party to wit. that of the
hardest Italian guides and the Duke him
self, was near $50 feet per hour.
1--WE want to push camps to at least $4,000
feet, or higher II possible. Now, no one
can say that the Dukes party was over
worked. IL was a splendidly fitted out .ex-
pedition, with ample means and therefore