The New York herald., 1921-05-01
Eyes We're Made to Be Hidden, Seems to
Be the Edict of the MillinerS of This Spring
Hat Brims Reach to Brows,
Even Though They Turn
Abruptly Upward.
ny ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

the eyes remain i'm eclipse. Who
frustrated the attempt of the uptilted
hat to show a brow, a fringe, a pair
OF perfect, or plucked. eyebrows is
not known to history. The fact of inn
portance is that hat brims tilt down
ward in front
To claim that all hats tilt over the
eyes is a statement that needs modih-
cation. There area few shapes. quite
original and daring, that rise to abrupt
heights after eclipsing the eyebrows,
their brims turn sharply into the air.
One may say for them that they are
the novelty of the season in a spring
that is singularly void of originality
and full of much beauty. This Is COM
forting to the public. 1t is not disas-
trous to the trade. Spring and new
hats 90 together. One does not reason
against the extravaganza of putting
money into new and sparkling head
gear when warm days make felt and
velvet unbearable.
it is possible to make ones old hat
do over from one winter to the begin
ming &c another autumn. but summer
suns have a devastating effect on the
fraIlties Of straw and thin fabric so
that economy is a sad thing when it is
practised right here and now.
Women regard the new millinery
mass Of uncorelated hats. No one
fashion or period exists. Whatever
struck the fancy of the designer, that
sne designed and threw upon the mar
let. This is not calculated to stimulate
buyer; it is apt to confuse her. The
sheep-like quality is still strong in us
when it comes to clothes The big
majority prefer to be shown or to be
initiative. Even the woman who wants
70 be different does not have a serene
morning when choosing one hat from
three dozen varying styles and colors.
The thing to do in this case. say the
provoking milliners, is to buy several
Fats. Such is the advice given in mill
inery and dressmaking establishments
this season A leading dressmaker said
that the season in that particular house
was irritating because class of women
mad come up as purchasers who only
bought one frock. Such type OF buying
Is considered bad Hard on the women
who think that $500 expended on one
gown needs a years explanation TO the
head OF the house.
Here Comes the Umbrella Hat.
presented with a daring novelty in mill
merry they are alarmed and curious, or
turn cold shoulder and a decided neg
afive. The latter women are for safety
first. The former give the milliner a
chance to enter into the field in which
she shines, that OF persuasion. IF you
only knew how wonderful you look
younger by ten years"-so goes the
shopworn phraseology. The second type
caves milliner's time and talk.
There Is a third type, however. which
Ia the delight of all those who design
and build apparel. She wants only the
diverting. the unusual, the compelling.
Such hat as the new umbrella shape
is shown to her. 1t does not go in the
ranks OF those hats that can be worn
every day and kept for the next season.
II is the occasional hat, the one that
must be posed with all the deliberation
and knowledge given by stage artisr
TO tableau. II is large and black and
satin Is the fabric It is wired to suc-
gest an umbrella; an umbrella caught
in windstorm and left in the gutter
one might suspect.
The wires are well marked and keep
the flaring ruffle of satin aloft and away
from the brow. although the eyebrows
are securely hidden, a trick which ap-
pears to be the first duty Of every re-
spectacle hat. Continuing its almost
disreputable rakishness there is a broad
and. struggling feather run through the
brm TO dart downward toward the
shoulder. To the amateur this hat may
seem an impossibility. Not so. II is
worn In Paris and by smart women who
are initiating 1t over here.
A New Touch of Egypt.
The ancient cradle of civilization still
rocks the fashions of this spring The
fantastic earring Of shell or crystals is
only occasionally worn, the kind at
tached 10 the under part of the brin.
but that type Of ornamentation which
the Egyptian put on so many Of their
clothes. the pointed petal overlapping,
is shown on a few new hats as a special
feature. There Is one hat of blue taf-
feta built into a draped crown which
has a brim and a wide peacock fare at
the back OF pointed quills overlapping.
IF the huge black hat described above
suggests an umbrella caught in a wind
storm this blue hat makes one think OF
n chicken blown by the wind. However.
they are not nearly so bad as they
sound. The right woman wears them
with grace and distinction and they give
a pleasant fllip 10 the season.
shapes That Arc Demure.
NO buyet neeu Ue dlaTTnfu bN the
presence OF a few startling hats. There
In plenty 10 choose that will please the
most conservative woman. She can
look as she wishes. She can match any
color OF costume she possesses. She
can ind as varied kinds OF ornamental
tion as pebbles on the beach. All was
grist that came TO the millinery mill
when the designers were laying plans
for the spring output.
The shape called mushroom Is still
in high fashion. The exaggeratedly
wide brimmed hat Ia featured. The
draped turban is worn. and there Is a
return In the high priced fabric hats to
the Russian headdress which often car
sics a dangling rhinestone in front
This ornament has become so common
ized by variety of cheap hats that the
better dressed woman avoids t. The
Russian shape, however. minus the gilt
ter of crystals Is quite smart. In dead
black II is worn to the restaurant din
ners instead of the large hat which Is
usually sponsored
The Chinese coolie hat is worn II
is trimmed with the black cherries
which are already as wearisome 20 the
eve as the llacs Of last season. al
though the latter as we'll as the black
fruit and magnoias. continue 10 be
placed on hats that bring a high price
SO ubiquitous arc the cherries that one
milliner declares she will take her
summer vacation IN the middle of the