The New York herald., 1921-06-26
French Capital Looks to the
Stage for New Frocks for
the Autumn.
By ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

w TE of America do not look to
\" the stage to set our fashions
Rather, we do not regard the
gowns worn behind the American foot
lights as prophecies.
In Paris they order these things diff
ferently. The stage and the racetrack
are the supreme experimental sta
tions for new fashions. The French
actresses lend themselves to the ex.
pertinent with grace. enthusiasm and
earnestness. They realize the impor-
tance Of being in earnest. They are
not merely pleasing an audience by
creating roles; they are animate cogs
in the huge machinery which is the
heart of Paris, also its fortune: the
industry of clothing women.
In this country there is a strong eff
fort being made by leading designers
10 place their apparel upon the stage
in such a manner that it will attract
attention and blaze a path for new
fashions. The actresses, however, do
not always want to experiment with
new ideas. They prefer to be faithful
TO Paris. They feel that their feet are
placed on firmer ground. Their frocks
may not be made in France, for there
iE a strong feeling in this country that
we develop q French idea for accept
ance by American women in a better
manner than the French do, who
naturally visualize their own women
when designing. They take for granted
that the wearer of the gown will lend
10 n the same artistry and something
OF the caprsAe given to 1t by the
French wong q. They take too much
for granted
II is important because OF these con-
ditions, that we in America share with
the FrYSeh their enthusiasm for a SEN
sationsf production OF a successful cos
tunnT play. 1t is well that we do at the
midseason.
France turns itself inside out to pro-
duce remarkable costumes which are
"feelers." II the public likes them, II
the dressmakers see virtue In them, they
are modified and shown to American
buyers when the exhibition OF clothes
begins Immediately after the Grand Prix
is run at Deauville. on the first Sunday
of August.
Buyers Flock to These Places.
You who may live thousands Of miles
away from Paris and know nothing OF
the country except the fact that one OF
your men folk fought there or one of
your womenfolk canteened there may |
not realize the way that Paris, under |
the guise of expensive amusement, |
reaches out her fingers and touches your |
pocketbook.
Her theatres and racetracks, her
charity bazaars are the source from |
which springs your blue serge frock |
which you bought for thirty dollars in
a department shop in your town. You
may not wear the exact kind of thing |
that Paris projects on the stage and at |
the races. The original fashion passes |
through many hands before II gets to |
your closet. IL undergoes changes as IL |
passes. and Paris may have changed the |
fashion before 1t arrives for your ac- |
ceptance.
II is for this reason that the Ameri- ,
can buyers. the French dressmakers and |
artist designers are attending the pro-
duction OF la Dame en- Rose" which |
IN good American Is THE Pink Lady"
the musical comedy through which
Hazel Dawn played the violin and came
into high fame on a melodious tune. The
name caught the fancy OF the Paris pro-
ducers, for the country appears TO have
gone quite Wild over a rose. IL Is
significant fact that she has used two
plays based on the name OF this flower
to spring upon the waiting public revo-
luton in wearing apparel.
Last autumn she intended the play /
called "L'Homme a la Rose" TO be the |
vehicle for the introduction OF Spanish
gowns. America has not accepted this
hoop skirted fashion, but she has been
influenced by H. IL one doubts that fact
u is only necessary to have II proved by
seeing women. young and old. red faced
and white faced, badly coiffed and well
coiffed, wearing the tortoise shell Span
ish comb one has only to look into the
shop windows and read the advertise
ments to know what publicity Is given
to the embroidered Spanish shawl.
An American who attended the open
ing night of la Dame en- Rose" might
shrink with terror at the thought that
persons of the trolley car and subway
habit will be asked TO wear such clothes
next autumn. But one should remember
the vital point in the Paris procedure.
which is that new fashions are launched
in their most interesting form. When
they are offered to the public they are
shorn OF much brilllancy. They are made
servlceable for the average woman. Not
even a motor car could accommodate
the wide skirt worn by 'The Pink Lady"
Clothes Accentuate Full skirts.
we have become accustomed to the
reiteration OF the fact that skirts grow
wider and longer We see II more often |
In print than I'm life. The smart women
of Paris have surely heightened their |
skirts. not TO the degree advocated on |
the stage. but In sufficient manner |
10 be q rebuke 20 those who consider
the extra short skirt a thing OF fashion.