davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
exclusive Models Desi&ned in Pari
HALL coon y
Greek Art

Ax \~AA M y
gI;.er's Nc.--TAs creations sksseAed
I'D described {. this article ors By
ycis,sire yionxea famous Pcrisicn
syessrnoic-, ,cho 6sals exclusively ,0tth
,-rc.s citcnts,s. Tkess models hare
we. been rece:reI frors our Pors reprs-
.er:a:ice.
nAuL PoIRET never made a
better thing than the che
n mise dresses with which he
startled Paris many years
AGO. Since that time he has created
many different models, but none
has had the enduring vogue Of the
peasant chenise. This is TO refec-
ton on his resourcefulness and crea-
tive ability, but demonstrates that
there are only a few ideas in the
world which would have sufficient
vitality to survive.
Recently there has appeared on
the horizon Of fashion another genre
OF dress, created and launched by
Madeleine Vionnet, which bids fair
TO have the same vitality and endur-
ance IS the chemise dress. AS
Poiret gathered his ideas from the
crudest form Of peasant garb, Won
net has drawn inspiration from the
dress Of the highly civilized Greek
a. the period Of his most artistic
Development
Just as NJ. Poiret, in adopting the
crude single garment Of the inlet
tered man Of toll, enbellished it,
Vionnet has stripped the Grecian
designs Of all complications and
presented them with a stern SIM
plicity that holds only the faintest
suggestion of their origin. While
Poiret embellished, Vionnet simpli-
fed. He took simplicity ard compli-
Gated it; she took complication and
simplifed it. He took the workaday
blouse and made it acceptable to the
modern woman Of fashion. She took
the complicated draperies Of the
etfete Grecian civilization and
wrought them into practical, sensi-
bic twentieth century dresses.
Truth Is Beauty.
Beauty Truth
Roth makers started to make
adaptations from styles Of dress
which, in their original purpose, lay
next to the nude body. The chemise
was often the sole garment covering
the nakedness Of the peasant. The
Greek costume was but draperies ar
ranged to reveal more than to con
ceal the beauties Of the nude figure
Poiret and Vionnet, in their adap
tons Of these ideas, have kept in
.heir models this look of nudity. The
body is covered, but the presence
Of the human figure underneath is
clearly felt though not actually re-
yealed.
As these ewo forms now appear
hey are typically modern. The
cheniss dress Ia its present vsria-
ton Is 50 well known and SO much
used By all makers that it no longer
has the lure Of novelty. The VionneI
dresses, therefore, stand out promi
nently rs ths new and successful.
thingz
The fact that vionnet caters T.
private trade In Paris and refuse!
70 sell 70 either conmissionalres o.
| copyists vii max. her less known
/ Internationally than Poiret, who
from the first moment Of launching
ais peasant dress, had the publicity
Of importers and copyists in all ths
fazhion centers Of the world push
'ag his models. Vionne.'s success
Up % the present tine has been local
II u
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02

soft, easy, flowing lines. Size uses
practically no trimmings at all,
no aces, no passementeries, no APP
pllques, no braids.
Crepe de chine is her favorite
medium for dresses. Such edges as
are cut she finishes with a tiny hand
rolled hem, but wherever possible
uses the selvago, thereby making sim
plcity the basis Of all her designs
It is this originality and this deft
art Of handling an old idea which
justly bring her fame among the
chic Parisiennes.
One Of her notable successes, which
Is shown developed In both black
and white crepe de chine, is sketched
at the left in the panel on this
page. 1t also has been made In
mauve, favorite color with this
house. The V shaped, extremely
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02


inception. often becomes 4
dominating feature of such inpor-
.ance that it develops into world
vide movement. During tie last
7ear there has been gradually devel-
'ping q strong feeling in favor Of
,repe de chine in preference to n
most any other silk fabric. This
simple and not az all drcssy material
,ame almost without herald as
medium for developing semi-dressy
toilettes.
Several well known makers, such
as Chanel, Miller Snurs and Ro-
lande, emphasized crepe dc chine in
their spring collections. Some Of
the larger and perhaps more i'm
portant houses, such az Callot,
Cheruit ard Madeleine ct Made
leine, While they showed crepe de
chine in their collections, did
not make an emphatic point Of it,
but talked rather OF more novelty
fabrics.
But when the Pahs,enne began TO
buy her summer wardrobe it was
early manifested that crepe de chine
was to have big vogue. Before
midsummer arrived It was not only
the crepe de chine dress. but Il was
the crepe de chine cape that carried
the palm for summer success. In
the fall collections Of the houses who
had early success with crepe de
chine, an increasing number of mod
els IN this material was shown.
Crepe de chine was used for founda-
tions Of dresses OF lace and meta,
novelties in preference to satins
New fall mantles Of tissues and o.
furs began TO be lined with crepe De
chine.
The Possibilities
Of Crepe de Chine
A LII Of this is most significant
from a standpoint of distribu
ton. It looks as if crepe de chine
might be the big seller in 1921. TAX
ing the place TO no small degree Of
voiles, tafetas ard foulards.
Tracing the origin Of this vogue
for Grape de chine, one finds that
Gabrielle Chanel, among mode
makers for the trade, and Madeleine
Vionnet, among those dressmakers
who cater only to Partisan trade,
were leaders in this idea. The very
successful crepe de chine dresses
made By, these two houses brought
70 the attention Of the Parisienne, as
we'll as other Paris makers, the DOS
sibilities in crepe de chine.
Chanel has been for many years
we'll known TO the American buyer
The house Of Vionnet, catering as It
does to exclusive private trade and
refusing TO sell to cornmisstonaires
is less we'll known. In Paris, how
ever, yionnet has a great standing
with certain number Of high class,
we'll dressed women. Naturally, the
local success Of this house has
created interest on the part Of the
trade. The fact that Vionnet does
not sell TO the trade, together with
her local success, has made Il pcs
sible for number Of smaller
makers 70 follow her idea without
exactly copying her models ard to
have consequent success with same.
The Partisan interest IN crepe de
chine covers a number of different
qualities Chanel makes & feature
Of crepe Narocain, which IS crepe
de chine weave into which enters
: some proportion Of tussah. or Wild
silk.
Some Variations
OF Crepe de Chine
MADELEINE VIoNNET uses
crepe Roman. very soft but
firm crepe, which las just sugges-
ton Of tricot weave. In fact, run
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
Some ' a1iatlons
Of Czepe de Chlne

' Oh lNRNtCAto
OF Crepe de Chine
MADELEINE VIONNET uses
crepe Roman. very soft but
firm crepe, which las just sugges-
ton Of a tricot weave. In fact, run
ning through it is a straight thread
Other houses specialize on 4 crepe
Chinois, which IS crepe de chine
woven in China. but dyed and fin
ished in france by French convert
ers. Then there Is a beautiful all
silk crepe de chine made in Lyons by
French mills. An effort has also
been made to popularize satin sur
face crepe de chine, but the big
leader is the dull surface crepe ds
chine of fairly ordinary make. such
as can be turned out by American
mills in an unlimited quantity. !,
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02

Another princess dress with cas-
cading sides IS at the upper right
OF the page Just outside the panel.
This dress is made Of straight
piece OF crepe de chine draped TO
the figure slightly across the front,
the extra width Of the material
being attached to The underarm seam
Of the sleeve, which allows the free
edges to ripple down the. sides in a
sort Of twisting cascade. The back
is made just ike the front, with the
exception of the cascading panel,
because that would make the figure
look thick. Vionnet shows this in q
sort Of ashes of roses crepe de chine.
One of the most daring models in
rust red crepe de chine is at the
lower right of the page. 1t is ex-
tremely decollete. The little bodies
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
Increasing Vogue
For Cascading Point.

For Cascading Point.
NIONNET Is very fond OF sash
ends and some Of her most sue
cessful models are Of the surplice
bodice draped princess type, with
the sash tied at the side, these
sashes being part OF the dress.
Many models Of this character are
selling in black crepe Roman, which
is sort Of jersey crepe, though IL
no way resembling jersey cloth.
A very charming but simple after
noon dress is developed in black
crepe de chine. The whole cachet
Of this model is given by the sash,
which has two pleated panels at
tached at each side to fall exactly
over the two side pleated panels in
the body or foundation dress. This
SASH goes twice around the figure
ard knots a. the right side, very
low on the hips. The foundation
dress is nothing more than q little
chemise, with low yoke and pleated
fullness set on to form the blouse
front and the side panels.
You will notice that the first three
models described show somewhat
straight lines, in comparison 70 ths
models with cascading points. Thes'
TWO types are the leading features il
the Vionnet line, and both are tre
mendously successful, though TIL
palm MAJ be given TO the cascadin;
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02

with surplice points has no back at
all, the two points at the front being
hitched up by a narrow strap, which
goes around tho neck. There is
little square train which hangs
Imply at the back, and at the sides
Of the front arc looped panels Of
crepe de chine.
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02

ing frock, with a sort Of apron
front princess effect, with long cas-
cading side panels. This model has
The same twisted shoulder bodice as
the ore described above.
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
Crepe de Chine

ARIS has q way Of develop
ing 4 fashion which, seem
ingly unimportant at its
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02

Es;.or's No.>-TAs ereotions sksseAed
I'D described i- this articls ors by
ysic,sire yionxca q famous Pcrisicn
syessmGie-, 'eho dsals exclusively 'ctth
. o-;yc.s ciicnts's. Tkess models hare
.us. beer rece;reG from our Pcr!s repre-
rn:a.ice.
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
Permanent Styles
for Every Type

7 Is true that certain very enter
prisinz manufacturers In New
fofk TIRE Just now borrowing rather
freely Of her IDEAS, though they are
30; announcing thcn rs Vionnet's.
Competitors n Paris, wniIe they do
'os copy her dresses. are initiating
" mar%ed degree her genre, or
st7l..
'ionnst has from TIE fret made
strenuous effort To protect her
@Sasis and is most vigorous in both
Protest and action against counter
aa'srs and copyists. All Of her
publicity Is based on this point
W'ssegtion oF copyistg. Notices arc
v'stsc 10 ttlss effect In her show
'sosas. Shs recently has written a
Mss " articles for the French
eens dsneuncins the copyfsts ard
lilly thrsahsnfne INIT against
New-York tribune., 1921-01-02
Daring Models
Conservatively Shown

AT THE lower left of the page
white crepe Gle chine dane
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

crepe dc metro and wore n Veil of
embroidered net, with coronet OF
lilies -thc-valley. The groom is
young man OF sterling qualities, and
has n host of friends. Tho young
couple were attended by Miss Anna
Katnig ss bridesmaid and Andrew
Hoza, the brides pcothcr, acting as
best man. a number of relatives and
friends, from Rockvale attended the
ceremony at tho church, after which
they returned to the home of the bride
where bounteous wedding dinner was
served. A photograph of the nuptial
party was taken in Canon City later
in the day. MIR. and Mrs kascak Will
make their home in Hugoton. Kansas,
where the groom is engaged in farm
ing.
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

Tho womcn's club will meet with
Mrs. ]. AZ Settle this afternoon when
this program:
Roll Call ......... Current Events.
Housekeeping in Many Lands.
....,.............. Mrs. w. J.. Russell
AN Eight-Hour Day in the Home -
.................... Mrs. John Ncith
Home Demonstration Work" ........
................... Mrs. w. f. RciniS
"Woman's Responsibility Concerning
Municipal Cleanliness, ..............
Observation-Disclosures. Mrs. Il. Sperau
Music.
Tho Rcv. and Mrs. William II. Bell
entertained the members OF the Mon
day Evening club at their regular
meeting Monday night when the host
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
In work done squarely and unwasted
days.
BY James Russell Lowell

Miss E,izabeth Richardson and MT.
Edward Jack Beatty went to COLORADO
springs Monday morning and were
married quietly at high noon In that
city. The bride, an attractive Pueblo
girl. wore a gown OF blue taffeta with
reach colored organdio sash emoroid-
cred in blue, and large brown maine
school OF Girard. Kansas. and is II
musician of merit The bridegroom
graduated from high school in colo,
RADIO Springs and afterwards attended
the Colorado School of Mines. He en-
listed during tho world war and sorv-
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

ins club today when Mrs. J. c. Brook
ing and Mrs. Adelbcrt A. weiland will
conduct tho program on "French and
Spanish Literature"
Miss Frances anderson returned
yesterday afternoon from a delightful
visit of two weeks in Chicago, Lau-
sing and Rockford College.
Miss Virginia Harvey. of hshtabula.
Ohio, guest of Mr.. and Mrs. William
Southwark, will leave tomorrow for
the Grand Canon. also Phoenix. Ariz..
where she will spend the winter.
Mir Edward Saunders. OF New York.
is visiting in the home OF Mr.. and
Mrs. Wardnor Williams.
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

road a. paper on "Amalsamation OF
Races-"
Mrs. John A. Martin will entertain
the members of the Sow-A-Day club
at an open meeting when Mrs, j. NJ.
Young will talk on Club Work"
Tho Nathan Il. Forrest Chapter, L.
d. c., viii have an open meeting this
evening at s o'clock in the home of
Mrs. Harry +. Worries to commemorate
the birthday of General Robert II. Lee.
There will be program of music and
readings and members have the privil-
cgc OF inviting guests.
Mrs. Ava Adams will he hostess at
tho meeting OF tho Wednesday Morn
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
PERSONS AND EVENTS
pEyoTEDNEss TO DUTY

Tho longer on this earth VIC 1.-Two
And weigh the various qualities OF
men,
The more VIC feel the high stern
featured beauty
OF plain devotcdness to duty.
SteAdfast and still, nor paid with NOR
tai praise,
But finding amplest recompensc
For lifn's unEarlandcd cxpense
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

cd eighteen months in Franco as n
member of the Signal corps. After
visiting week in Denver and other
points in Arkansas valley they Will
return to Pueblo Mr., Beatty is con-
rected with the Henderson, Olds Com
pany. They will be at home at zoo
East Eighth street.
Miss katherine d. Hoza, daughter
of Mr.. and Mrs. Paul Hoza of Rock
vale. Colorado, was united in marriage
to MIR. George j. Kascak OF Hugoton,
Kansas, at st. Bonedicts church at
Florence Friday morning, January IA.
The bride is the only daughter OF a
we'll known farmer of Custer county
who is now retired. The bride was
t,owucd in a creation OF electric bluo
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
Wrisht's Wool Mixture
Union Suits.

TO close out this good Union Suit we arc
offering all sizes. from E to Is years.
at ............... .5U
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
)DED ATTRACTIONS for WEDNESDAY of BASEMENT WEEK
Outing Gowns nsDecidedly Reduce
Outing Flannel Gown Time still with weeks
why not sleep and comfortable CrevsBeggs gowns

An extra sizo Gown, in sizes 10 and 20, that
sold at $3.50, with the long sleeve, and square
collarless neck, now offered at ..... S1.5O
"A V-neck Gown in pink or blue stripe Out
ing, long sleeves; in sizes 16 and II; reduced
from $2.95 to Observation-Disclosures. S1.SO
Extra large Gown for largo women; these
made with round neck, with two rows of hem
stitching; sizes 10 and 20; were $500; To-
day ....................... S1.5O
DO you prefer a gown with the collarf Our
$2.95 line of striped Outing Flannel, in sizes
16 and II, Offered Today at ..-..... 81 80
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19

Children S s1.75 Outing Flannel Gowns, in
ages 4 to IL years, now ........... ST 90
Misses Outing Flannel Gowns reduced
from $40 TO OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES. S1.SS
Do you wear Outing Flannel Pctticoats? We
have the gray or light colors full length gar
mcnt did sell at Sl50; now selling at ST 90
The $1.15 and Sl.25 knee length Skirts, in
pink or blue Outing Flannel, arc reduced
10 .......'... .............. IOC
-Children's S1.00 Outing Flannel Slcepcrs
with feet pockets ................ SOC
Look MS ovcr' in tho Basement. We arc
worth whhc 10 Your economic needs.
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
a3Z Z2lsal@
WEATHER FORECAST

-Colorado-eW dnesday and Thursday colder,
occasional rain snow west portion and in
the mountain districts; cooler Thursday and
in northwest portion Wednesday.
Pueblo chieftain., 1921-01-19
Outing Flannel
Niqht Shirts, Sl.O0.

These Night Shirts are made of Amos
kcag Outing and are warm and durable;
sizes 6 to l8 years; formerly priced
$l.5O .$l.00
Daily picayune., 1921-01-21
DIAN MERCANTILE COMPANY
 ELECTS OFFICERS

At meeting of stockholders last night the Ozan Mercantile company elected the following officers for the ensuing year: $. T. White, president; i; H. F. Doris, vice-president; D. l.. Me Rae. Secretary treasurer.
 The above named officers together with s. T White Jr, Sam Dckerson. and W. N. Bemis, compose the board of directors.
Daily picayune., 1921-01-21
Middiing Cotton $12.50 today.

Marriage license was today issued to Dalton Greene and Ora Fisher of Ross ton Tim McGowan and Corine Wil- Hams of this city, all colored.
Daily picayune., 1921-01-21
LOCALS

Sam T White, Jr., made a business trip to Hope today.
 
 Andy Jordan of Sutton was mingling with friends here today.
 Rev. NJ. D. Armstrong of Ianebuig, spent the day in our city.
 k. D. Akers is confined to his bed on account of illness.
 Born to MT. and Mrs Wm Brown of route 3, fine girl.
 
 The Missouri-Pacific Railway com pany, will run special train to Eli Do- rado Sunday, leaving Prescott at a. m., and leaving Fl Dorado at 6 D. m. Round Trip Ticket, $6.46, anyone wish ing reservation should call S. T. White, Jr., Phone No. 206.
 G. A. Hayes, Agent.
 Prescott Ark JnO. I. Wade, one of the prominent farmers of Emmet township, is in OFT city today.
 J. J. Martin of Rosston, was trans acting business in the county clerks office today.
 ,Ino. Norman. one of the prominent fa armers of Hampstead county, was here trading today.
 Hen. w. V Tompkins returned last I tght from Chicago where he went on a business mission.
 J. Westmoreland, of Gales, has our thanks for we'll preserved copy of the Picayune-Special Edition of November 9, 1905. which he brought to us this morning.
 The little months old daughter of Attorney Walter Murrah, who has been dangerously sick for several days is some better today
  Josh Daly of Reader, was pleasant caller at this office yesterday. Buy your garden seed from J. K. Hamilton & Co.
 Mrs. F. M. Sharp, wife of the cour- teous cashier of the First State Bank, is visiting in Hope today. We sell the very best groceries and make prompt delivery.
 J. K. Hamilton X Co. Dr. s. J. Hesterly, who has been con- fined to his bed since Monday suffer ing with acute rheuma rism, is reported improving today.
 l.. $. Loudermilk, bookkeeper for the Valley Lumber company, was in the city this morning.
 If you have lot to sell or a home to lease or a horse or hound to trade, try our Classified Ad" Column. Master Ralph Gordon. little son of Mir. and Mrs Clarence Gordon, is on the sick list today.
 Will Weaver of McNabb, Ark. is vis- iting in Prescott. Will is an old Neva da county boy.
 We want your eggs, 90 cents per dozen, cash or trade. Farmers Supply Company.
 
 Closed car any part of city 25 cents trip one or four passengers. Prices reasonable on all country trips.
 Phone 2S1. Martin Nelson of Bleyins, attended a State Poultry meeting in Little Rock yesterday. MT. Nelson is the largest
Daily picayune., 1921-01-21
WARNING ORDER.

Lula Adams
 vs. John Adams
 Chancery Court. The defendant, John Adams, is warn ed to appear in this court within thirty days and answer the complaint of the plaintiff. Lula Adams. (SeaD A. $. McGough. Clerk
Daily picayune., 1921-01-21

We have several attractive proposi tioEs iii the way of small farms ant city property See us.
 Moore and Martin.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-01-04
WIN PRIZES ON POULTRY
Rrcdc~ ~ BIoodcd Chickens aud
Turkeys Get itibipu-.

special to The World.
DUNCAN. Jan. &c. Tho stephens
county poultry show closed Friday
and, according to the county agent.
was one of the bcst uf it's kind ever
had In the county. There were ten
different breeds and t5O entries,
principally of Rhode Island reds.
barred Rocks. butt Orplng,uns and
Nyandottcs, Emory Woods uf Crucc
won first prize on an entry uf barred
Rocks. u. T. Wiluamr SECOND. and
land reds.
Mrs. John WcavsE of Guddig car
riCd of primo horu uts uu turkcya. one
of her birds. according to tho Judges,
being the best indiN iduul iu the state
II weighed rs pounds and was pcr-
feet specimen.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-01-04
RECOGNITION FOR rRAcHoMA
Forcing of Indian Children Into
White SciwUpis Cr,Rtcs Emergency

special to The World,
PONCA CITY. Jan. 3---Thc local
chamber OF commerce has made n
request of the state board OF health
that the present law bo amended 40
tha. the eye disease, tfachoma. viii
be added To the list OF communicable
diseases. thus placing 1t under the
direct control OF the state health au-
thorities.
Trachoma Is prevalent among sew
cral Indian tribes. particularly
among the roncas OF this county, and
tor that reason the local authorities
desire the disease controlled because
the Indian children have been forced
Into the rural schools of the county
with the whites through the closing
OF the Indian school at Whiteagle. a
health cleanup OF the Indians will
he attempted again, ~ soon as GER
tain amendments To the laws can be
secured,
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-01-04
VOTE FOR LIGHT BONDS
Double Unit Plant VIII Handle
Water and Light for City
of Shamrock

Spethi 10 me Noilus
SHAMROCK, Jan. 3. A bond
election was held saturday 10 vote
on bonds for u municipal electric
Night plant. and carried for the
bonds by nearly three to one. The
citizens of Shamrock voted upon
themselves bonds for this purpose
in the amount of 100000 to build a
double unit plant in connection with
the waterworks. which is owned by
the city.
Shamrock owns n splendid water
system, supplying abundance OF
water for all purposes, and is paying
above the running expenses several
hundred dollars every month. and
the city fathers figure that they can
run nice lighting system on II
paying basis also.
The plans for the new light plant
provide for a double-unit plant with
100 to 250-Candlc power lamps for
every street corner In the town and
an entire new system, which is ex-
pected to make Shamrock one of the
best lighted towns In tho country.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-01-04
FINE FOR RHEUMATISM
Musterolc Loosens Up Those
Stiff Joints Drives'Out Pain

You'll know why thousands usc
Musterolc once you experience the
glad relief 1t gives.
Got n Jar at once from the nearest
drug store. II is n clean. white oint-
ment, made with the oil OF mustard
BETTER than "a mustard plaster and
does not blister. Brings ease and
comfort while II IL being rubbed on,
Mustorolc is recommended by
many doctors and nurses. Millions
of Jars are used annually FOR bron-
chitis, Group, stiff neck. asthma,
neuralgia, pleurisy rheumatism.
lumbago, pains and achcs OF the
back or points. sprains, sore mus
clcs, bruises, chi blains, frosted
feet, colds of the chest ut often pre-
vents pneumonia).
35c and 65c Jars: hospital sizc, $500