Evening star., 1921-06-05
By ANNE RIT1rENHOUSE Sc.

TINE eyes of those who make ap-
parel for American women turn
toward Paris when the summer
races begin. 1t may be true, rs
often asserted, that the really smart
French women do not attend these
races: they leave them to the English,
the Americans and the mannequins.
Even if true this is not a fact to change
the belief in the significance of the races
as events which bring out the fashions
which win rule the summer.
What is known as the aristocratic
set in France has no more power to lead
fashion than the same set in any coun-
try. As rule its members wear ancient
clothes, sometimes conservative in ele-
gance. again positively dowdy. To look
to them for new fashions would be waste
Of time, so their absence. from fashion
viewpoint, does not matter.
What really happens at the races in
Paris is an outpouring Of those who
intend TO been seen in their new clothes.
Their services may be hired for the
occasion. II so. they are laborers
worthy Of their hire.
Their presence permits the races to
establish certain things in apparel.
Dressmakers. illustrators. buyers from
all countries, especially from America,
go there with note books ready, brains
alert. minds receptive, and the cameras
have been clicking there for a month
as they will continue to click during
the month OF June. as they will begin
IN lInl- A,rev, ,ef ,f
the fairy-like town on the English cham
mel.
IT is for this reason that clothes at
the French races are important to the
girl who knows nothing of France ex-
cept our part in the war. She will buy
these fashions at whatever price her
purse affords. She may wear them to
strawberry festival. to a Friday night
dancing class, to church on SUNDAY
morning, on the open road and the
country club porch. She will not know
their source, but she will know their
value
Therefore the question of the hour
among those who make women's clothes
their business or their profession is:
What was worn?
In telling the tale emphasis must be
laid on the prevalence of the type of
frock which we accept for the after
noon. The tailored suits, slender in
line and simple in treatment, were not
conspicuous. The type of costume that
predominated was a three-piece af-
fair. There was an ornamental bodice
and an ornamental wrap in Jacket or
cape form. The bodice and the skirt
were often in one piece. not two pieces,
Dut they were separate garments in
thr build and contour.
Conspicuous by it's absence was the
bHgand.s cloak. which gained much
popularity in Paris after the war. A
year ago it enveloped nearly every
woman who went to the races. This
year it remained at home
Its place was taken by a short James
/ cape. which Is a short wrap gath
cred at the neckline and fastened in
front with loops of ribbon, fur or
cloth. Sometimes it was drawn close
ly against the neck; again it was
worn in the fashion of other days,
loosely dropping from the shoulders,
not meeting in front.
Such capes were highly ornamental.
Many were trimmed with cire ribbons,
face.
There was a strange contrast pre-
sented between little jackets that
fiared outward from the waistiiue
and long coats in redingote shape that
reached to the knees or hem of skirt.
to make it fashionable. Some of the
short jackets were of eeorgette crepe.
which served as q foundation for
elaborate embroidery in white. One