The New York herald., 1921-11-27

monplace It descends ,nto undiscernIble
cheapness ever and often
1t perpleXes many women to find that
satin is not the trump card II was 1t Is
easy for her who does not wish to think
too much of clothes to merely decide.
with nod of the head. that evening
frocks shall be of satin. This Is a sim
pie system that leaves one time to worry
about something else, but it is not a sys-
tenn to follow this season.
Crepe de chine started satin on its
downward path. Then transparent ma
terials took up the dressmakers thoughts
and left little Imagination for the fabric
which had served as q standby through
out generations. silk Of various weaves
ousted satin as n lining for the evening
frock. Silk jersey took its rlace for pet
ticoats. No doubt the shops will still
sell thousands of yards Of satin, but one
holds to the opinion that 1t has beer
Beaten down from first place.
Satin is used for accessories, but even
then it is touched up with oil Italian
embroidery or cutout work.
What Is Knsha Cloth:
Once in while fashion language is
dotted with a new word and the public
rise up to ask It's meaning. There have
been many such words. Ratine and
duvetyne are two OF the best known
To-day the new ones are kasha and
perllaine.
Kasha cloth has a certain stiffness
given by the hair that looks like Inohair
running through its surface. Kasha
serge and kasha duvetyne are different
weaves of the older and well known
materials.
The kasha duvetyne. which is In high
demand. Is said to be more durable than
It's immediate ancestor. 1t does not
bear upon it's velvety surface the impress
OF the hard knocks II has received. One
can SIT In n chair In a gown Of kasha
duvetyne and not rise up mortified. This
cannot be said of the fabric from which
the word kasha is omitted.
These weaves have crept into the
ready to wear clothes and people like
them. They take dye In admirable man.
ner. Beige Is one of the favorite tones
A gown of II is trimmed with gray sIlh
embroidery. which is a curious mixture
60 the conventional mind.
There Is a tendency to dispose OF dark
suits for the street In favor OF light
ones. France even advocating white with
quantities of black or brilliant orna-
rncnts. And II is quite natural that tan
md mist gray should come into first
fashion.
These colors do not appeal to the
economic woman. and yet there Is this
much to be said in their favor. that
they clean more easily than dark colors
and do not show spots OF dust as quickly.
what or Blue serscs
The average woman Is sceptical os
new materials. For this reason she
turns 10 navy blue serge as something
she knows. She is not willing to risk
the contents OF her purse on more
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hidden mystery. But there are times
when even the average woman must
break away from the conventional ma
terinls and this season urges her TO do
It through It's offerings OF new weaves
Blue serge is a spring and autumn
fabric, but women use II under coats
throughout the cold weather. They
realize that II shows spots as quickly az
q piece OF mahogany furniture. but they
do not consider Il worse In this respect
than any other material. go they put
their money into Il for all kinds Of cos
tunes except o top wrap.
The chance to wear II this season II
slight There were gowns OF IL shown
In the early autumn which were fash
ioned with sufficient Imagination TO
keep serge going for while. but as the
scnson advanced women became restless
and thought they would prefer the new
allurlng materials that came out OF
Paris. Then blue serge dropped Into the
background. It became an occasional
and not n universal material for city
streets
Women who had gowns Of II and who
under the spur OF conservation believed
II necessary TO use them saw In tho new
movement OF sleeves q chance to rear
range tho frocks into something wear
able
ma. -. .tos..n. 1,axa hoes, sbo hone
of many old garments. n blue serge
tint can be cut into a pinafore frocb
with square Hindu sleeves Of georgette
crepe or crepe dc Chine becomes a de-
slrabic thing.
The slcevcs may be so wide md
brilliant In their ornamentution mat no
ono notices the use Of bfue sorDA