The broad ax., 1921-11-12
Women Have Adopted Outfit for
Their UnifOrm-Can Never
Die, Maker Says.
MANY WITH VERY LONG COATS
Three-ouarter Lengths Permit Only
Fraction Of skirt to Show-keep
the Straight and Long
Lines.

I She likes IL. she feels well dressed
when she wears IL, and hers Is the
figure that displays II to the very best
advantage. And. observes a fashion
authority, when the calendar says that
autumn is here. the suit bcOmes the
first noticeable change in dress expires.
sion.
A prominent maker Of suits-a man
who has devoted the whole Of his life
10 the study Of this one by-path In
wont s wear-Said that he had had
Just as many, II not more. calls for
suits this season as he had had any
season In the past. This statement
was made in the face Of the fact that
the general impression seems TO be,
In fashion circles. that the suit Is
losing some Of its popularity. Now
this tailor believes that the suit can
never die. he says he knows that Yom-
en- have adopted II for their uniform.
Just as the men need the suit for
theirs. He realizes the fact that wom-
en- diverge from the suit in many and
varied manners, but he says that this
costume as the foundation Of q ward
robe is Just as staple a thing as Is the
coffee they drink for their break
fasts.
You ask him: docs the style Of
the suit changer and he witheringly
answers that 1t does most decidedly.
Then, II you look at IT with an I'M
tutored eye, II is hard to see Just
where the changes come in. They
are subtle, and they are slow, but,
he assures you, they are changes, and
the last minute Of fashion standard
demands that they shall be made.
The encouraging side Of all this
slowness and subtlety Is that It is not
greatly noticeable-that the old suit,
II II Is designed along conservative
enough lines, win last on indefinitely.
And, combined with the smart hat and
the proper accompaniment Of fur, II
does itself proud In the marching
throng.
Length Of skirts.
The lengths Of the skirts In the
suits, II Is nice to be able to say. have
not changed 50 materially that the
change Is quick to catch the eye. They
seem to be about the same, although
they are really longer than those ex-
IRENE knee-length ones Of the sum-
ner. II behOOves rs to stop and think,
however. that certain members Of the
community attempted these ultra
short affairs and that most OF the
suit skirts, In particular, remained a
distance OF from ten to twelve inches
from the floor. And that Is what
they are today-preferably ten. but
rising TO twelve where the figure Il
tall and slim enough to demand that
concession to its own proportions.
There Is the sport suit, for which
America and Americans have become
20 famous; there Is the medium suit
for every occasion. and there IS the
dressy suit which, this season. has
dissolved itself into the costume dress.
But each Is as popular and as neces-
sary as the other In its own way. AMI
each one Of them Is destined to hold
q place In the seasons fashions.
Among the tailored suits there are
many with coats that are very long.
That is. they may safely be called
three-quarter length, for there Is only
a fraction Of a skirt left showing be-
meath the ending Of the coat. Then,
these suits are cut In such a manner
that they can keep the straight, iona
lines for any figure. They are totally
without fuIlness, to be sure. but they
have q miraculous way Of keeping
staight in spite Of everything. Every
thing about them is seemingly tightly
fitted. The sleeves are, indeed. skin
tight and the armhOles are rounded
and fitted to q nicely. Sometimes
there is a belt set at a low waistline
and tied into place, the exact placing
Of the waistline being In accordance
with the individual proportions OF the
figure. Then. some OF these three
quarter tailored coats are slit at the
sides from the bottom. so that the ends
have a triie Of give" to them. not be
ing keyed to the line Of the figure so
unrelentingly. a tailored suit Of this
variety was 'made with bindings Of its
own material, which material was
broadcloth, by the way, and these
were cut almost an inch In width
These were laid on as fatty as could
be around every conceivable edge
and stitched closely on either side.
The color Of the suit was q dusty
taupe and the stitched edgings made
q good-looking finish
Have LeH-cut RsVsr&
Most Of these strictly tailored suits
have lOw-eut reYers, 80 that the clos
Ings Of the eOat come just above the
waIstlines- Then. this opening leaves
room for the whitest and daintiest Of
French blOuses, the latter being the
touch without which the suit remains
as nothing worthy Of notice.
As for materials In the tailored suits.
well. there are tEills and serges that
forever win be emlnentIy satisfactory
IN this connection. and there are some
son, me duvetyns and wool VelourA
Suits vita more CT Les e trimming |
cone % rs frsn the Preach desinGA
and, with q certain type q wOman.
are genera1ly appreciated and worn n
this eOun1y. Most e thssA Ills 80
son, are mads with TIE lenesr waists |
~ Ulfk sIEhfiy bl0ased ensefS e |
he waistIlnsA Then Gbs enabrsIdery |
= nd fof a Wids or . narF0g ban1 J