Pueblo chieftain., 1921-10-10
THE PERFUMER At WORK

fragrance. Then the mass is strained
and cooled until 1t congeals.
Eagerly you bend over the jar of
Erecnish stuff when the top is lifted.
expecting to catch u heavenly whiff of
pure violet. but the scent which arises
is moro like green soap. and not very
healthy soap at that. The csscnsc is
50 strong that 1t seems TO bear no re-
lation to the delicate perfume which
1t eventually becomes.
Altar of roses. too. is here in the
, form of a liquid essence. This precious
round metal cantccns with big shoppers.
Surely, you think. this Will fill the
room with sweetness. but altar of
roses at this stage is moro suggestive
OF honcycomb-as near as these strong.
almost paraiyzing odors can be COM
pared to anything else.
Beyond, on tho ahelvcs, are lavender
from the Alps In big glass bottles. and
bcrgamot in copper kettles from Sic
lily and Italy. oil of lemons in kettles
is one OF the few essences which would
be recognized here by the average per-
son from tho odor. 1t smells Just like
tho pccl-strong. pleasantly pungcnt.
Cumarin powder from Holland is an
other pleasant smelling ingredient,
giving the fresh scent OF new mown
hay.
PERFUME WITH A PUNCH
But the climax of the smelling tour
IL not reached. Tho head chemist picks
up "A COW horn. 1uch as the pioneers
once used for gun powder. There is
n leather pouch fastened over the top
This he cautiously removes. warning
the visitor to inhale with discretion
1t is a timely warning for tho scent so
carefully packed for shipping is that
n rit.ns tho .tyot Sncll
well known for its nauseating potency.
Northern Africa contributes this deli
cacy to the pcrtumcr, sending 1t in
horns like tho one described. This Is
the most powerful odor of the entire
collection. even outranking musk which
is seen and smclied nearby.
Musk. from tho musk deer. has the
appearance of a dark brown pod and
smells damp and musty with a faint
suggestion of old leather in its bouquet
The value Of the dingy brown musk
pods is in direct contrast To their es-
thctic appeal. Tho pods arc bought
thru French bank. Special mcssen-
gers carry the musk I'm small bags, each
worth perhaps 5000. Musk brings
$500 pound.
Most people" the chemist explained
have no idea that these heavy ami
NAL odors play an important part In
almost every perfume. The public
thinks that rose perfume Is n single
odor. As "A matter OF fact. rose pre-
paration would probably include not
only tho delicate floral essence. but an
oil-sandalwood. or patchouii-to round
IT out and give 1t bouquet. and then
ono or the hcayics, such as musk,
civit. or ambcrgris for fixativc.
THE complete perfume may be COM
pared to musical composition with
the animal odors for undcrtoncs In tho
bass clcf, and the floral essences for
the melody in the treble. Odors have
different tonal values. Certain ones
blend. and if combined in balanced
proportions there ia harmony. other
wise there may bc discord OF scent Just
ms violent as amy discord in music.
There arc two kinds of perfumes.
There arc the perfumes that represent
some particular flower. and there arc
the composites or bouquets which con-
tain sometimes 40 different odors gath
cred from the four corners OF tho
Garth"
PERFUME AND CHARACTER
These bouquets, he explained, arc
now very popular in this country,
tho rose and violet are always best
sellers. The single flower perfume is
generally preferred by strongly indi-