The New York herald., 1921-02-27

oiossible for such a mode to pass.
AMI when it passes II will be for
good. One cannot still retain this
comfortable coiffure for day time and
produce sufficient length Of hair for
one of the new psyches over night,
even when the hairdressers supply the
actual psyche knot to eek out the
shorn locks.
The passing of the bobbed hair
also means the passing of the hair
worn to produce a bobbed effect. The
arrangement that seems to be forcing
the old one into the background is
some version of the psyche-a psyche
skilfully poised at a rather difficult
vngNe midway between the nape of
r. -M.neck and the crown of the head.
If you choose you may regard your
head as globe with your chin a
south pole. Then the new psyche
comes at the north pole. An arrange
at. by the way, easier for the artist
20 raw than for most women to wear.
Hat Must Fit Hair.
OBVIOUSLY the reason why this change
y hair arrangement is so important TO
J milllners is because, whether they
noose to look at IL that way or not. one
sgtheir chief problems is TO make hats
a.at will fit comfortably and convenient
y the women who are to wear them.
With the bobbed head or the hair in
,obed effect their problem was not
ifficult. All that the crown of the hat
Aad to do was to make room for the
cad. 1t need show no consideration
~ puffs. curls or easily dishevelled
oils on top of the head
A ntIunher of fba ,,axu hate ei,o,,.,. a.,
Paris flare off the hair at the back, and
the reason given for the existence OF
these hats is that they accommodate
the hair elaborately arranged at the
back of the head. Another way of sc-
cornmodating the hair is TO make the
,rowns much more roomy and this may
70 done by way OF crown that Is large
N every respect, or only In one. in poke
style that bulges toward the back
Many hats have been produced in Paris
With very large crowns, but for some
eason or other the American miliiners
nave been wary of these large crowned
hats for American women. They say
hat American women do not like the
,rown that is big and full. Time will
prove whether or not the importers have
been good psychologists.
The dressmakers who swear most
'aithfully by everything that emanates
HfOIu f~dTlb, IccUIR SOfletnlnE not un-
'ike scorn for American designing, rather
ooh-pooh the idea OF the Directoire
styles In frocks and suits and wraps.
This is, OF course. because the American
designers have been pushing the Direc-
Ire type OF dress within the last few
ionths, while tho French have not. But
he Directore idea in hats Is a different
roposition. The French milliners arc
tie strong I'm their support OF this
riod. They 20 frankly TO the old cuts
styles worn just before the Empire
r their inspiration. There are a num-
OF so-called tricorn e-sapes that
crn TO be inspired by the masculine
Of the day. and the poke bonnet
rnishes motif from feminine head
Tss affected az that time.
Advantage Of the Poke.
7he advantage Of the poke shape IS
" gives room for delicateIy ar
ICED coils OF hair at the back Of the
own. Bear In mind---in pa ssing--that
g psyche was dominant az the period
the Directoire. II was a lase eieh-
s'nth century Interpretation OF the
esic Grecisn mode OF hair arrange
bit. The classic Greeks got around
Ssproblem OF head covering by wear
D}hllets or bandeaus or covering the
vd with hlny veils, but this did not
dfi~e the French women Of the Direc-
bire period any more than Il would the
Woman of to-day.
But DO rot ine vine that all or even .