The New York herald., 1921-05-23
EMPLOYERS SPLIT ON PLAN
TO END CLOTHING STRIKE

AVOID the terms or their agreement,
which he would not permit.
The admitted fact Is that when the
manufacturers signed the agreement
they were at the top OF a high price
clothing boom and were satisfied to
put up with almost any interference
or inconvenience In order that they
might keep on turning out clothes at
unprecedentedly profitable prices.
But by the time the agreement was
about to expire conditions had
changed. The public had announced
its intention Of buying no more clothes
at war time prices. The manufacturers
saw that their only hope of a market
lay In drastic cuts in all lines Of mems
clothing. Accordingly they decided
that labor costs must be reduced.
"Onc Big Union" Idea Carries.
The Amalgamated Clothing Workers
Of America. however. had not been idle
during the period of the agreement. BY
persistent proselyting in every branch
Of the industry. the clerks, spongers.
expressmen. had been formed into
locals and adopted into the parent
union. The mind catching phrase Of zone
big union for the whole industry"
brought thousands of workers into the
ranks of the Amalgamated who had
never thought Of themselves as any part
Of the needle trades or the tailoring
industry. but had merely looked on their
work as a necessary adjunct of the
clothing business.
When they were organized the ANAL
gamated stood firmly by every one of
them for substantial increases in wages
the bushelmen. for instance, took an
immediate jump of $40 a week to a
minimum wage of S45-and among them
the eloquent agitators Of the Amalga-
mated found a fertile field for spread
ing the doctrine OF the industrial revo-
luton" and the Cooperative Common
wealth, which the unions leaders advo-
cate.
Under these conditions. when the
clothing manufacturers began to talk of
reducing labor costs they were met
with firm statement that no wage cuts
would be permitted Renew the agree
ment under the same conditions for an
other year or there VIII be a strike"
was the answer Of the Amalgamated Of
ficials.
The manufacturers pointed to reduc-
tions In wages in many other lines and
to the plain determination OF the people
to buy no more high priced clothes. The
union officials replied that was no con-
Germ of theirs. No clothes could be made
In New York city except under agree
ment with the Amalgamated the manu-
facturers were told.
Imua rtfaI Chairman n Fails.
A gronp Of the manufacturers. headed
by William A. Bandler, president Of the
association, an American born and bred.
rebelled at this union decree. William M.
ciserson impartial chairman, came from
Rochester to oil the troubled waters. but
returned first telling the manufacturers
so they say-that he couldn't do any
thing with the union officials and then
publishing a long statement to the effect
that all the blame for the situation rested
on the manufacturers.
From August to November the So
called negotiations continued without
any progress being made. Then the
manufacturers engaged the services of
Harry A. Gordon, of Gordon. Tully &
Gordon, 347 Fifth avenue lawyer with
many years experience in labor disputes
between manufacturers and workers in
the cloak and women's garment trade.
Previous to consulting with MIR. Cor
don. the manufacturers had formulated
and laid before Sidney Hillman. general
president OF the Amalgamated. a set Of
demands which they declared must be
granted before they would consider a
renewal of their agreement with the
union. These demands were chiefly that
the manufacturers have the right to in
stall the piece work system Of payment,
tf.,A -
markets be the base rates for New York
city, and that where weekly work and
pay were arranged the workers should
cooperate in maintaining daily indi-
vidual standards of production.
The manufacturers insisted also that
they should have the right. which had
been denied them, to change freely from
one firm of Contractors" to another.
These contractors undertake to finish
in their own shops a whole batch of
cut out clothes for a stipulated price for
each garment. The union, to protect
its own supervision OF these contracting
shops. had decreed that no change in
contractors could be made by any manu-
facturer without union permission.
Right TO "Hire and Fire sought."
The right to hire and fire" or dis
cipline any workers was demanded also,
together with the right to install labor
saving machinery especially sponging
machines, which had been forbidden by
the union, or so controlled as to elimi-
nate their labor saving advantages.
With these provisions the manufacture
ers were willing to agree to hire only
Amalgamated workers-there were prac-
tically no others to be had--and to abide
by the adjustment machinery" or i'm
partial chairman plan for settling legiti-
mate grievances.
Mr.. Gordon persuaded the association
to adopt q resolution on December 2 for
the continuation of negotiations upon ali
the points involved affecting working
conditions. provided that by December
s the union agreed that all workers
should be individually responsible for
daily standard of production"
The Amalgamated's reply to this was
a suggestion for further investigation
and exploration" with n view to deter
mining specific conditions existing in
each shop or factory. The answer
ignored the request for acceptance OF
the piece work and other proposals.
President Bandler OF the Manufactur-
ers' Association then wrote to President
Hillman OF the Analgamated that in
view OF the position taken by the union,
"wc are compelled to construe your letter
as rejection OF our proposal and shall
act accordingly"
Immediately the manufacturers an
nounced their plans for an "open shop"
campaign throughout the city. with
IL H.