The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1921-06-05
June Races in Paris Bring Out the Fashions
Which Will Rule in America During the Summer
Three Piece Frock FREEDOM
mates - Tailored Suits
A Not Conspicuous.
BY ANNE RITrENHoUsE.

"HE eyes of those who make ap-
parel for American women
turn toward Paris when the
summer races begin. 1t may be true.
AS often asserted, that the really smart
French women do not attend these
races; they leave them to the Eng
fish, the Americans and the manne-
gums. Even II true this is not a fact
to change the belief in the significance
out the fashions which will rule the
summer.
What is known as the aristocratic
set in France has no more power to
lead fashion than the same set in any
country. AS a rule it's members wear
ancient clothes, sometimes conserva-
tive in elegance, again positively
dowdy. To look TO them for new
fashions would be waste of time, so
their absence. from a fashion view
point, does not matter
What really happens at the races In
Paris is an outpouring OF those who
intend to be seen in their new clothes
Their services may be hired for the oc-
casion. II so. they are laborers worthy
Of their hire.
Their presence permits the races to
establish certain things in apparel
Dressmakers, illustrators, buyers from
all countries, especially from America.
go there with note books ready, brains
alert, minds receptive. and the cameras
have been clicking there for month. as
they will continue to click during the
month of June, as they will begin to
click again in August at Deauville, the
fairylike town on the English Channel.
1t is for this reason that clothes at
the French races are important to the
girl who knows nothing of France ex-
cept our part in the war. She will buy
these fashions at whatever price her
purse affords. She may wear them to
q strawberry festival. to q Friday night
dancing class. to church on Sunday
morning, on the open road and the coun-
try club porch. She will not know their
source but she will know their value.
Therefore the question Of the hour
among those who make women's clothes
their business or their profession is:
What was worn?
Conspicuous Afternoon Frocks.
In telling the tale emphasis must be
laid on the prevalence Of the type of
frock which we accept for the afternoon
The tailored suits. slender in line and
simple in treatment, were not conspicu-
Gus. The type Of costume that predomi-
mated was three-piece affair. There
was an ornamental bodice and an orna-
mental wrap in Jacket or cape FORM
The bodice and the skirt were often in
one-piece, not two pieces, but they were
separate garments in their build ana
contour.
Conspicuous by its absence was tie
brigands cloak. which gained much
popula rity in Paris after the war a
year ago it enveloped nearly every
woman who went to the races. This
year it remained at home.
It's place was taken by short James
the First cape. which is a short wrap
gathered at the neck-linc and fastened in
front with loops of ribbon, fur. OF cloth.
Sometimes at was drawn closely against
the neck again 1t was worn in the FASH
ion Of other days. loosely dropping from
the shoulders, not meeting in front.
Such capes were highly ornamental
Many were trimmed with cire ribbon,
which is ribbon with lacouered sur
face.
short Coats and short Capes. {.
There was a strange contrast pre-
outward from the waistline and long
coats in redingote shape that reached to
the knees or hem OF skirt. Each gar
ment had sufficient sponsors TO make 1t
fashionable. Some of the short jackets
were OF georgette crepe which served as
foundation for elaborate embroidery.
Black georgette was embroidered in
white. One such jacket had its wide
hem lavishiy covered with black ostrich
tips. This gown created a sensation
worn by Pearl White. our cinema star.
who is having everything her own way
In Paris.
Redingote coats were also ornamental.
They we're lined with the material OF
the frock. Many were OF dark silk.
preferably taffets and the lining as
we'll as the frocl over which they were
worn was in brilliant colors. A red and
white foulard gown carried a back silk
coat lined with foulard. 1t was slashed
at each side and had wide revers that
ran to the waist. both showing wide ex-
panses of foulard. 1t was a striking
fact that the short wrap was an Access
sorry TO the costume the long wrap was
a part of 1t.
Full skirts Fought for Power.
with the races as a setting. the best
OF the French designers exploited the
very full skirt. Paquin sent manne-
quin wearing a blue and white taffeta
gown that was an exact reproduction of
n leading fashion in the winter of 1914.
Its wide skirt swept the ankles. 1t was
built with ten rufflcs Of blue taffeta
edged with white. The tight bodice
was wrinkled about a small waistline.
and its round neckline was finished
with turnover collar of the fabric.
With 1t was worn a high bonnet of blue
straw with small white brim and two
that fell to the hem OF the skirt. Pa
quin's mannequin carried handbag
made OF the fabric of the gown and 1t.
too, was covered with many ruffles.
There were other wide skirts worn
which did not stand out from the figure.
Their hens were four and six yards wide.
but as the material was soft Il dropped
Imply toward the feet. There were
closely plated skirts In soft fabrics that
had actual funess which adjusted itself
to slim lines Other skirts had mar
row foundation with half dozen float
ing panels dropping from the waist.
New sleeve II Proposed.
The eyes OF the watchers were TO-
cussed on sleeves as much az on skirts,
for they knew that the women at the
races would give impetus 70 whatever
fashion was to be raised TO power.
The observers saw that the majority
Of arms were entirely covered. There
might be q transparent sleeve. square in