davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1921-10-09
The Gauntlet Cuff
And the Bishop Sleeve

] OWER-HALF sleeves are also
made in mitten form, flaring in
deep gauntlet cuffs. These, too, are
attached to the dress by straps or
bracelets. Of course, such style
movements may be counted among
the eccentricitics of fashion, but it
is the daring things that are instru-
mental in creating new modes.
The change in sleeves last spring
was radical one. At that time no
one believed that the long sleeve
would find such a ready acceptance.
TIE effects Of last springs exag-
gerated sleeves are now being felt
and there Is no telling what the
aftermath Of the new sleeves will be.
New-York tribune., 1921-10-09

ing adventurers in sleeves. Very
unusual were the things she did last
season. Still more remarkable are
her latest creations, and other max
ers have not been behind in studying
the history of sleeves and making
the most Of the ideas they have
gained, harnessing them to their own
creativeness.
The most astonishing thing that
Jenny does at the present time is to
make evening gowns with half
sleeves, the half being on the lower
part OF the arm. These are like
wide, flowing cuffs held to the shoul-
der by narrow straps or upper arm
bracelets to which tho cuff ID At
tached.
New-York tribune., 1921-10-09

auulun show clever interspers-
Ing of houtfant skirts, and some cir
cuhr models, with those that are
Of straight line. The latter, in al |
most every instance, predominates
IN Daytime dresses.
Lines are longer than ever be-
fore. That Is, the waistline Is
placed lower and skirts are of in
creased length. Renee Is one
French maker who shows only the
extremely low waistline. In her en-
tire collection no other type is seen
-m indication that she pins her
faith absolutely to this style, and
consequently has made no effort to
work out any other idea.
In. common with many other
makers Renee frequently uses
long blousing bodice Of vague out
line She makes much of belts and
intricate girdles wrapping the hips.
many of them strongly suggestive Of
the twisted Oriental girdle.
The Skirt Is Longer
Temporarily. at Least,
4 GREAT question that has been
agitating two continents-the
question as to whether or not the
length Of skirts will be increased
is, for the time being, definitely set
tied. They will be heightened. In
street clothes the increase Is so
slight that those inclined to be witty
at the expense of the most sensible
fashion that has prevailed in many
decades will not be deprived Of one
of their favorite subjects Of CONVEX
satiSn for this winter at least.
At the dinner hour, and later in
the evening at the dance, the opera
or the theater, women who look like
litas girls during the day will don
long skirted frocks with trailing
panels and uneven hens. Many will
wear skirts that are very long and
Of considerable fullness.
The house of Madeleine ct Made
leias shows several models with
swinging pamela In almost every
instance they are longer than the
foundation skirt and often cut on
bias lines. the panels being narrower
At the top and spreading on either
side With the hem edge cut In blunt
polnta
Swinging Panels Give
Uneven Skirt Effect
JHIS same cut is used on the foun-
dation skirt, 80 that one gets the
impression Of very uneven hem. In
1acs, one might say that there is not
srrsight~around skirt in this entire
collection except In tailored auits.
Ths new feature Of these swinging
pasels Is decided fare that Is given
70 tho silhouette.
The same note Is carried out In
Ine tailored suit through the use
OF fhree-quarter and seven-eighths
sagtn jackets cut with decided
asrcs tn long, full, swinging capes
mbSth fur and fabric, and in drap-
sf'ss ard trains on evening dresses.
Uthis latter Madeleine ct Madeleine
ossc an exaggerated example called
an's bleu, al evening dress where
har'ng side panels form double
ussn. The drcss itself is Of smoke
0lae velvet, almost black, with side
panels Of silver brocsde which fare
~ into long. pointed, wing-Iike
Kama, ons falling from each side of
th4 dress.
i" svening gowns and dressy
1Srnoon Costumes Jenny features
/. aH'ng side panels, which arc CON
'asaation Of the sleeve. This design-
" proves herself most vergatjlo IN
/ arrangement Of such panels by
\ a18 t1sm TO fall from fhe fyout
New-York tribune., 1921-10-09
>On@er Skirts and Novel Sleeves


Color characterize~ many of the
new French models. The way in
Which each designer shows his or
her preference in color is interest
ing
Patou favo~s green, and tAis color
stands cut prominently in the entire
Patou collection. 1t is used as an
accessory note more frequently than
any other color and tery many
models are developed in lovely dark
shades Of green. in Scotch plaid
effects, of which there are many in
the woods, shades of green dominate.
In evening dresses chiffon velvets
IS well as dyed laces in this color
are very much in evidence.
Madeleine ct Made'eine's new color
is named Madeleine blue, although
it looks more like a sage green than
a blue, sort OF electric tone with a
, decided greenish cast suggesting
reseda or sage green. They show
this in tailored suits. evening gowns,
afternoon dresses and pelgnors.
Lanvin. who has a most interest,"
ing collection of clothes. contiaues
The use of white and back. wnich
has been one Of her favor,te COM
onat.ons for several seasons Il
vas sne WHO first ased the Moravian
embrodeyies in b.ach and white and
! biack ard stone color with occasion-
al relieving touches of brilliant red.
Lanvin Holds TO st
Black and White
MOST striking sre hsr W.T. Ell
ing gowns trialef ack.
She also has severa' dresses that are
half white and half blac' as we'll
as beautiful afternoon dresses of
white broadc.oth and black crepe
de chino. This couturier even min
giles black and white in furs ard
shows many handsome maae OF
black trimmed with whit Her
black velvet dresses a7s Ds ga
mented with an sppli4ue :. White
fur are charming.
One Of the most original ideas Is
seen in flaring pagoda cuffs Of white
on black dresses or long flowing
white sleeves in Jet black frocks.
Premet is lavish with color In
fact, at this house very little black
is seen, and when used it is always
cnlivened by color such as brilliant
red or vivid blue. Here considerable
Use is made of laces in black and In
coiors, the black lace often illumi-
rated with chenille embroidery In
high color, such as violet or coral
pink.
Worth uses much color In the form
Of artificial flowers such as huge
roses. Many Of his floral garnitures
ars in bright rosy and fame reds,
giving an emphatic feeling of red
throughout this collection.
Fuchsia Evening Dresses
With Matching Velvet Wraps
WORTH, too, emphasizes black
and white combinations, and In
addition shows many charming
models in pure white. The black and
white combinations of this house
frequently are enlivened oy vivid
touches of red in the form Of beau
tiful emOroideries, or q red lining
may simmer through perforations
in dark cloth.
I An event such as the big Masked
Bal at the National Opera House
New-York tribune., 1921-10-09

Of the sleeve on one side and the
back on the other, thus producing a
very graceful effect. She frequently
emphasizes this point by making the
panels Of contrasting material, thus
drawing attention TO the reversed
position.
Jenny lndulges
In a Novel Sleeve
WHILE the long waistline is one
Of the salient features of the
clothes for this winter, and is seen
at all the great drcssmaking estab-
lishments, it cannot be chronicled as
q strikingly new point, simply as Il
fashion which prevails and is slight
]y more exaggerated than hitherto.
The most extraordinary feature in
fashions just now Is the sleeve. 1t
not only usurps the center Of the
stage but the entire plaform. Jenny
was and still III one Of the most dar-
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
ONES INCOME TAX
Directions That May, or May Not, Be
Helpful In Making Out Corr
rect Return.

In the direction OF helpfulness the
Winstead Saturday Night suggests
that If your income IS $2,40O year
and you have diamond ring and an
automobile and are married to a bru-
nette girl twenty-six years old, you
take the amount of your income, add
your personal property, subtract your
street number, multiply by your height,
add your wife's height and divide by
your telephone number.
You will then carry your minus, sep
arated from your plus, to schedule G.,
on the tenth line of which you will
subtract the multiple, which you put
on line x, schedule K, entering in col
umn A.
If you have child in the family
subtract $500 from your income, add
the amount of your personal property,
multiply by your waist measure, sub
tract the size Of your collar, add the
child's age, multiply by the amount
you have given the church during the
year and divide by the number of your
automobile license tag.
If there are two children you de-
duct $500 from your income, add the
weight and age Of the second child,
divide by the date Of your birth. null.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
Gasoline Responsibility.

Gigmanic society on the edge of the
Sahara supports magnificent garage.
In towns, sprung up many hundred
miles apart, in the wilderness of Brit
ish Columbia, isolated except for the
two steel rails Of the transcontinental
railroad, the well-to-dO import auto
mobiles for driving up. and down the
half-dozen miles which comprise. Main
street. Motoring is evidently an event
Of Importance, even when q complete
circuit of all the available roadway
takes less than half hour. Then
there is always the pleasure and sat
isfaction to be found in repetition. In
deed, enthusiasm for motoring in sew
eral of these towns has led to the
formation of automobile Gibbs, thriv-
ing organizations which differ little
from their prototypes in other. places
except in showing a shade more in
terest in varnish, let us say, and a
shade less in gasoline. ~sgttE{ r.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25

Vi. The main building is 16 stories high,
surmounted by tower AZ feet square
and rising 1893 feet from the street
level. This tower will contain clock
with dialson four sides, each 20 feet IN
diameter and will be surmounted by a
searchlight lantern 9 feet in diameter.
The building is covered with enamel
finish terra Gotta on all four sides. It
is regarded as one of the most beauti-
full buildings in Chicago and people and
press are enthusiastic about it. The
Chicago Tribune published picture
labelling it "A Jewel of the Link"
Wrigley alsorecently completed new
factories at Chicago and New York.
All this new construction work in
the space of a few years is certainly a
tribute to the power of advertising and
the accumulative effect of a multitude
Df Scent sales.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
Historic Dead Sea.

The Dead sea, lake in Asiatic Tur-
key and lying near the southern ex-
tremity of Palestine, probably got it's
name because its atmosphere was for
merly supposed to be fatal to life-an
erroneous idea, for the people who
live on its banks are said to be in the
enjoyment of good health. But fish
cannot live in its waters, which are
especially nauseating. The Jordan
and six other rivers flow into the
Dead sea, which, has no outlet, but
gets rid of it's surplus by evaporation.
In the Bible this baneful body of wa
ter is called the Salt Sea of the Plains
and Sea of the Arabah. l&
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25

tiply by the size of your hat and sub
tract the weight Of your mother-in-
law.
The result of the above computation
should be carried to line WILL, sched-
ule /, after deducting from the total
of g, p, and A, and adding f, G and
L, carrying it to column d, which Will
cover sll taxation except the normal
and surtax.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
"A JEWEL OF CHICAGO"
Is Title Applied to
Wrigley Building

Wrigley's new Office building in
Chicago IS at the new Boulevard Link
Bridge, Michigan avenue and the river
and heads the vista looking north on
Michigan avenue, so MIR. Wrigley chose
a beautiful design which makes the
building decorative feature of the
Chicago lake front and harmonizes with
the Chicago Beautiful plan.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
.Initials Of Famed pioneer.

The name I'D. Boone was discov-
cred chiseled in a rock at the mouth
Of cave in Lincoln county, West viz
ginia. AS the forms of the letters cor
respond with those found in the rocks
of Kentucky it is thought that the
famed hunter at one time made an ex-
petition into that section of the coun'
try. i s
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25

of the colliery owners and the gov
eminent. The session was to be held
this afternoon.
The meeting was the first confer
ence since the miners broke off me-
gotiations by refusing to allow their
demands for pooling of profits and q
national wage board.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
ROMANCE IN THE SOUTH SEAS

protest recently from the people of the
lands of the South Seas which have been accustomed
think Of inhabited by They complained that they
pictured going about state of nudity whereas the
truth they said that they had much the
clothes do for two generations and would be much
shocked of their number should appear public
without rai1nent. I
Our conception of the life of those fascinating
remote part the world based largely the stories of Her
Melville Robert Louis Stevenson Jack London other
writers of doubtless Of ideas concerning
the region and its people wide the truth map
prehension that the folk Of the protesting islands go naked
must guard however, against going to the other extreme and
pcturng the South Seas civilized to the extent the
United States Europe Frederick OBen has shown other
wise in white Shadows the South Seas and another trav
eer has recently returned from the obscure islands
with the statement that the natives barbarans of the
primitive sort and still practice cannibalism.
And now comes from Papeete, Tahiti dispatch
yarn that would do credit the imagination of of the
ess of the South Seas Of treasure taken from Peru
during revolution and buried of the
coral stos the eastward Tahiti Dying Sidney the last
survivor the paca band that stole the Jewels revealed the
hiding place stranger who had befrended him. and
petition being fitted out to hunt for the loot That is taken
seriously by number of people who willing to risk
the of the treasure pretty good evidence that the
possibilities of wild and romantic adventure of the kind that
loved to narrate still far from exhausted and that
romance is yet toy be found in the South Seas
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
Knock at the Door to Get Out.

Greek and Roman doors invariably
open outwards. A person passing out
of. a house is, therefore, obliged to
knock on the door before opening it
to avoid a collision with a passerby.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
OUR TWO EXTREMES

great organizations of the American people at
work again-congress and baseball. t.&~= ..#s.r 1T
Congress represents the serious side of @ the
from which spring the laws and the that enable to
function people governed by the people.
There good senator's and and doubt
less there who not good They have performed
much constructive work the past and that Indifferent
in it's value tr. ~.h
We take them find them and thankful that they
good as they are. They might be ~" 4
Baseball is the national escape valve It is through the
popular that with red blood find vent for their pen
up enthusiasm hour of relaxation from the burdenoe
of life.
Baseball has spring from humble beginning to emf
that almost sagge the conception of the human mind
It up with the glories of rocket and almost col
lapsed with the thud of dud. ..~s -.~.. Il
There honest and brilliant ball players who hon
their profession has disclosed graft
ing shysters @."..@:
Congress is trial, as it has always BEEN =. ~ &.
Baseball is in the balance, has been before
May justice and right guide their minds and their hearts
and their hands the opportunities that before them the
end that the affairs of may be satisfactory adjust
ed and attuned that the call of the diamond find US in
frame of mind capable Of enjoying to the fullest the pleasures
that emanate from the field of the ball and the bat.
Opportunity beckons to the two extremes
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1921-04-25
AMERICANISM

The Of Americanism is equality before the law
majority rule representative progress by paria
1nenay rather than by mob action and
right just expressed politically in the fedora
idea and socially organization governed by duty
and guided by education.-Leslie's Weekly.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20
A TEST OF FAITH
Chattanooga News.)

Chattanooga NeWS.)
We have frequent occasion to pro-
test against the efforts of Japan to
impose her dominion upon unwilling
peoples, yet we have thus far failed
to eXemplify the ideals which we rec
ommend to Japan. If we should with
draw our sovereignty from the Philip
pines, in accordance with our repeated
promises, we could the more consist
emily ask Japan to follow a similar
course toward Shantung, Manchuria
and Siberia. Our plea would have a
great deal more force If we could
make it with clean hands. To say that
the Philippines are not ready for In.
dependence is merely to express an
arbitrary, gratuitOus opinion. 1t Is
perfectly easy TO create conditions
in ones W mind-that no people
ever could comply with. Our delay
about respecting our W pledge is a
reflection on our national good faith
and q constant invitation to lnterna.
tional complications in the far east.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

The Filipino has been much miSrep-
resented in the United States. This is
largely because the Sunday supple
ments have made a speciality of por-
traying the semi-naked ~non-Christian
hill tribes as typical" Filipinos, which
Is far from the truth.
The total population of the Philip
pines is 1O,350,64O, Of which 9,49l,212
are Christians and civilized, and have
been so for 800 years, possessing a cul-
ture and refinement that will compare
f~avorably with that of other countries.
The number Of non-ChriStlans is $780,
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20
Notice For Publication.

Department OF the Interior.
o., ;. Lanu Office at Gregory. South Dakots
May 18th. 1872
Notice is hereby given that Roy /. Reinoehl
If R~unningville, s. D., who. on July 3, 1916
made Homestead Entry No. 0lO324, fol
; + Section2l, Township 42-N, Range 25-W
Sixth Principal Meridian. has filed notice OF
intention TO make Final Three Year Proof,
70 establish claim to the land above described
lefore Fred G. kirch. L. :. Commissioner a.
Wood, 5. ID. on the 25th day OF June. 1921.
Claimant names as witnesses: Claude NJ
Mcdonald. James Il. Peacock. William i
Meyer, all OF Runningville, :. d., Wallace +
Root, OF Carter, S D.,
Proof made under Act June 6. 1912.
1913 Edwin VI. S%rARCHER. Register
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

pines covet their freedom, liberty and
political emancipation SO much that
they will not hesitate to receive from
the Congress Of the United States
complete and absolute independence
without protection" Quezon said.
III the United States, dictated by its
own interests, decides to extend pro
lection to the Philippines, we'll and
good. We would accept that as a So
luton Of u problems. If not, let us
have absolute independence In what
ever form we can get It,"
President Quezon declared that If
the question were put before the
Fillpinos for a vote, 9S per cent would
favor absolute independence.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20
INDEPENDENCE OF PHILIPPINES
(Atascadero (Cal.) News.)

Tire Philippines should be
given absolute independence, which is
their natural right, even IL we are
well aware that they have not yet
reached the full stature Of American,
ism. We ourselves have not reached
1t so long as we insist upon govern
Ing other peoples against their will.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

Pointers for Ayist--.

Prehistoric birds resembled the
early airplanes in their small wing ex-
panse and large tails. according to a
British engineer, indicating that mans
and natures development work have
been parallel. Flying fish are more
likely than birds TO yield information
about soaring flight, in the opinion Of
another observer.-Popular Mechanics
Magazine
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

SOS, and only a small percentage of
them are ~uncivilized. They are fast
becoming educated, and will ultimate
ly make good citizens.
Seventy per cent of the Inhabitants
Of the Philippines Over ten years Of
age, according TO the last census, are
literate. This is a higher percentage
of l"iteracy than that Of any South
American country, higher than that of
Spain, and higher than that of any
of the New Republics of Europe whose
independence is being guaranteed by
the Allies.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20
FINAL PROOF NOTICES.

will be run the required length OF time. and
where the publication fee OF six ($6) has been
paid the affidavit OF proof OF publication will
be sent to the oficerbefore whom proof is made
Where the fee has not been previously paid
we shall hold affidavit until the publication
fee Is paid. This afida Wit must be secured be-
fore you can make proof. The best way is to
remit the publication fee at least two weeks
before the day set for YOU TO make YOUR proof
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

FOR RENT-M7 place north OF
Wood on White River; 600 acres; 40
acres A No. | alfalfa. Fair improve
nents. For further particulars write
me. Roy Andrews, lI2 South 18th
ST., Norfolk, Nebraska. ltf
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

TAKEN UP-Red COW with brockel
face, with horns, branded I'D on right
nip. Owner can have same by prov
ing ownership, paying for keep and
this advertisement. G.. l.. Kidweller,
Wood, S. D. lltf
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

The United States isn't the only
country that has Observation-Disclosures
enterprising pioneers who leave thick
ly populated districts and take their
families into virgin territory to create
homes for themselves. The Philippine
islands have thousands Of thrifty home
steaderS.
The above photograph shows a pie
ture of a Christian Filipino homestead
er and his family lear Pikit, Cotabato
province, Mindanao, p. |. Five years
ago he was a cab driver working for
low wages at Cebu, q thickly populated
city. He went into the then wilderness
Of Mindanao, planted hemp and cocoa
nuts, paid for his land and has be-
come wealthy. Thousands Of similar
instances could be cited. One Mindanao
homesteader is worth 100000.
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

FOR SALE Extra good black
Amber cane seed at 81 "a per bushel.
Ray Rankin, Wood. S d. l5t3p
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

STRAYED-About May 6, one year
ling Shorthorn Heifer branded F on
right side. Reward for animal or in
formation leading to recovery. j j.
Filipi, Wood, S. D.. l5tf
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

SEEn CORN-Good mixed seed
corn for sale at $2a bushel. j. A.
Edmonds, n E %, 80, n, Wood, S. d
llt6
The Mellette County pioneer. [volume] (Wood, Mellette County, S.D.) 19??-1971, 1921-05-20

WANTED-lOO cattle to pasture
Plenty OF good grass, water and salt
War prices are obsolete. Come and
see me. G. 0. Wilson, Wood 81 )43