The New York herald., 1921-02-06

One country wants the tight slim
bodice extending to the hips, the other
wants the high waist encircled under
the bust. The more diversity the mer-
rier. Let us welcome all obstacles to
moulding women into one form. one
fashion. 1t makes for a gay and harm
less war. although it may leave the man
ufacturers bit puzzled.
Whatever silhouette taifeta may as
sumo 1t seems to be reasonably clear
that the Egyptian, the Oriental. the
Northern African will not do. II the
French win, or IL the Americans win.
there's an end to primitiveness In the
result
Tafreta Is a sophisticated fabric. It
lends itself to artihciality and II ex-
presses itself best in eras when lines
and curves arc built. not revealed
Looking at 1t in that light 1t has deep
significance. If 1t comes Into general
usage now ii will express itself as al
ways, and that alone means an abrupt
turn about from what has endured for
years.
You can see, can't you, how the two
fabrics, both offered for the spring and
both launched at Palm Beach In new
gowns with equal success. mean more
than an idle whim on the part OF the
designers who rule the destinies of our
wardrobes and, by the same token, our
finances?
Ribbon for New Tanetn Frocks.
The American dressmakers say that
Lanvin launched ribbon evening frocks
in order to use up the vast quantities of
manufactured ribbon which have pyra-
mided through negligence of the public.
Never have ribbons been more beautiful
~ woven. Yet the counters bear miles OF
them. They are expensive that's the
reason for their surplus to-day Women
have hesitated 20 buy an accessory at q
auge price when they could get material
by tie yard without paying more.
When tine economist snatches az the
idea of building q quantity OF ribbon
frocks at small outlay she IS reckoning
without the cost one hour at ribbon
counter will send here away wiser The
dressmakers have no hestancy in usins
these wildly expensive fabrics for they
do not want 90 lower the price of their
gowns. but the home dressmaker Will
think thrice and then not act.
And such ribbons as are chosen ~
build these new taffeta frocks that are
TO oust the Egyptian restore artiii-
ciality. build UP new curves.
They are as colorful as the Pharaohs
would have liked. They have the glory
that Is ancient Chinese. They are heavily
designed in flowers. in stripes. with the
former given the preference. They are
not altogether unlike much OF the taffeta
by the yard. but as they are bit rGore
sensational they are launched In the
extreme types OF the approaching FASH
ion.
They acccntuate the wide effort TO dis
place plain materials with flowered ones
upon which the conservatives look with
n ~ wall TIo
looms seem TO have thrown themselves
into "A fcryor OF ecstacy IN creating figu-
rations for women TO bear upon their
bodies. Tho shops cry aloud these wares.
Tho rcady-to-wcnr pcople--and that in-
cludes some OF the smartcst houses
push forward the flowered fabrics TO all
comcrs. IL is not difficult to coretell
WEAKNESS before the season is well adj
vanced. because numbers OF women will
buy such clothes In abundance because
they are "the style"
Wolfe georgette. silks, cottons. even
linens. bear the Impress Of the colored
stamp. When plain fabrics are used
they are bordcred, faced or lined with
something figured. When "A patchwork
quilt can be used for straight sport
coat without criticism. only approval.
then the day of fguration Is surely here.
True. the work on the quilt Is that OF an
artist and the colors and designs are as
satisfying those on an ancient vase
but the fact remains that "a quilt Ia q
quit.
And that Is not the end OF quilt usage
there's q sport skirt built OF a white
Marseilos spread that carries a gay and
ornamental jacket and tho effect ls not
one to cause laughter. And furthermore.
there's silk blanket In broad subdued
plaids made into loose straight sport
Jacket TO be worn with an orange linen
skirt at Coronado Beach.