The New York herald., 1921-04-03

of the country acknowledge Paris as
the source Of influence. but they
spread the propaganda between the
oceans OF ALL AMERICAN CLOTHES
The French complain of the lack of
purchasing power on the part Of the
Americans. That France leads in in
spiration is too true to be repeated.
That American clothes are more in
sistently modelled for American figures
and environment is an accomplished
fact.
Between the two forces nothing
revolutionary has occurred. The
spring breaks with a kindly permis-
sion TO women to continue wearing
the clothes they have possessed for
the last three years. Women will not
do this. Human nature prevents.
Time and tear and wear are corroding.
The dressmaking houses are crowded
by women who continue TO buy that
which they once possessed.
what Paris Has Done.
While France has established nothing
new and New York hns established, to
a certain extent. a Directoire costume.
there are enough changes in detail to
make clothes stimulating.
Paris has occupied Itself with battle
between skirts. She, has settled the bat
tie of sleeves. The preponderance OF the
latter are long. There are still short
sleeves in some frocks But they are 40
casually introduced in the new clothes
that they appear to be an indication OF
some special inclination Of the indi-
vidual
THE t,attra hatu.oa,, ,lytrt, 4. ~, -
means settled. except In the mind Of the
prophet. II Is time for short skirts to
disappear, but as the postwar woman
is contemptuous OF long skirts in the
street the battle will end with victory
which Is a compromise.
Here is an instance Of the fight be-
tween two sectors Jennie. the American
idol In France, cuts skirts TO the knees.
Cheruit, the idol OF the French. per-
mits skirts to sweep the ankles.
Pickering around this central battle
are minor lights. Most OF the designers
show skirts that are shorter than those
OF Chcruit and longer than those OF
Jennie.
The American public may not see
either OF the extreme skirts. The Amer
ican importers insisted upon a proper
and convenient length In the gowns they
ordered from French houses.
Those who sponsor the Dirsctoire style
In New York cut the skirts above the
shoe tops They do not intend 10 follow
the Directore period closely. but Ii must
be remembered that the ladies Of the
Directoire epoch thought themselves
qLs,. knocking. deliberately daring. with
their tight skirts, minus petticoat. ex-
hibiting the ankle. II was the Insult Of
tho people to the voluminous skirts OF
the Austrian Queen. who was dead
The very exaggeratedly full skirt
which America has copied from France
r. made short in this country and long
In Paris II Is for the public 70 choose.
The French skirt Is more artietic. The
American skirt In far ?rettier to our
present way of thinking. Both coun-
tries unite on the Oriental trick Of
mounting a long transparent skirt over
a short opaque pettcoat
The designers OF both countries OBJ
tained newer length without bulk A
frock of dyed lace combined with trans
parent chiffon or crepe follows without
hesitation TO the ankles, but leaves two
long slim lines. stockings in beige or
gray beneath It's classic drapery
The ways Of draping the new gown
are not new to the public
The ma jority Of houses follow the
lead of Cheruit who IN 1919 produced
skirt which had sling sleeves or Au-
rora Boreals streamers Of t>lin Material
from waist TO ankles. Such drapery Is
ubiquitous to-day. There Is no reason
for its dlscontinuance. II Is the excess
sive charm of the Orient There is no
limit TO the number OF skirts produced
which have the iyine effect of the
Winged Victory. Ever 2 large woman