The New York herald., 1921-05-23
Blouse Modelled After the Peasants Sn1Ock
Gains importance as Weather Grows Warmer
Hangs Over Skirt to Protect
Waistline-Made of Many
Curious Fabrics.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

HE American Woiidn - SSSuiSAs
anchored to shirtwaist. She
= may adopt the French word
"blouse" and pronounce it in her own
way or with the accent on the French
"u." 1t may hang over her skirt like
smock. or it may be neatly tucked into
her skirt in the way that America in
vented.
There are two classes of women who
can be depended upon for loyalty TO
the genuine shrtwaist; one class is the
young and waistess who can stand the
tail of the blouse tucked over the hips
and the abdomen: the other class is
middle aged with a long cultivated
waistline and tightly strapped hip
line
The women in between prefer the
careless overblouse. 1t saves them the
trouble of seeing to it that body and
soul are joined, as they say in New
Orleans.
Now and then the American women
drift away from the separate blouse.
The shops insist that the sale OF these
garments has been as large through
out the reign of the one piece frock as
It was before women took j. into their
heads to partially eliminate the coat
suit. but the observer has feeling
that the one piece frock suppressed
the shirtwaist.
Convenience of One Piece FrOck.
What is true of the loyalty of Amer
leans to the separate blouse Is also true
of the tailored suit. Neither is ever en-
tirely forseken. Possibly our climate
keeps us desirous of the comfort and
convenience of the informal attire or
rather the costume we think is conven-
lent merely because we are familiar
with 1t.
The truth is that the one piece frock
ience Is concerned. 1t is more easily
made, it is cheaper to buy, more simple
to adjust 1t is the primitive garment
OF the world
The shirtwaist, however, belongs to
us, which may partly account for our
constant usage Of it. We consider 1t
our contribution to costumery. So does
the rest of the world.
The late Gen. Thomas II. Barry told
an amusing story in connection with the
American shirtwaist which shows how
its fame has reached unto the obscure
regions OF the earth He was In mill
tary command OF the Philippines when
the Sultan of Sulu and his wife-sounds
like comic opera personages-made tfes.
call OF ceremony. They came vttii some
display of spiendor froo, .H-is dominion.
arrived in Manila and made their way
to Gen. Barrys house. When Mrs
Barry received them the Sultaness
pointing to her garment. said with glee
that she wore the American national
costume in honor of the occasion and
had fastened Il with the American
Jewels. The national garment was a
cheap white shirtwaist tucked in her
skirt: the srgerican jewels were ten
dollar gold pieces used to fasten the
blouse
what Manufacturers Have Done.
Those who make garments for the
American. trade and those who inspire
designs behind the trade are eager to
create alluring separate blouses. For
some commercial reason there is an in
sistence upon this garment for this sum-
mcr 1t Is partly due to the evident fact
that the American woman has taken up
the masculine tailored suit as her spi sng
costume She may not wear 1t all the
time but she includes one such suit in
her wardrobe.
1t is interesting to natch the process
sion strengthen and lengthen. made ur
OF smart women wearing what in Eng
land Is called the country suit. These
are made Of thick notified jersey that
closely resembles homespun tweed and
there are North Carolina woollens woven
on the Biltmore estate. also English
tweeds. Serge is lacking. Crepe de chine
has only been accepted BY the minority
For the first time in several years |,
is considered good dressing TO appear In
the street and restaurants during thu
day in the simplest type of loose coa'
and skirt. the kind that the Englisi
woman has always worn IN The country
usually with her hands in her pockets
Even that gesture is copied over here
The French idea OF oruameuting 2
tailored suit has been so commonly &C
cepted by Americans during the las
decade that the observer thought oul
women had forgotten tho costume which
they made famous and which our tailor,
cut and ft with exceeding skill Bu
suddenly there grew up. over night thu
fashion for the typc or snit that mer
wear. All French suggestion has beer
eliminated Tho English suit. as II Il
made and worn in the British Empire 4
accepted.
II has simplicity durability and q
sufficient informally to Keep II out o.
the battles OF fashion TX Is merel,
itself II takes no part In the struggle
FOR round neck or an obong neck. Q
short sleeve or long sleeve, n drapet
skirt or a rlounccd skirt. With a mag
nlfcent gesture II banishes these vexa
tious questions into thin air il Il
what It always has been. II Is. there
fore, at its best
Hin. Standardized Itself
II IL not quite right 10 say Il has M
determined contour this season. II hal
standardized itself for the season o
ies1 The coat is finger length, Is belt
lace bu rnaupfai, rnliar and raver0