New-York tribune., 1921-02-27
A Softeniing Grace

.h;s gpring and summer are decided.
Each Of the famous nodistes has,
n course, her own point of view on
me mode of the season, though there
would seem to be a general agree
ment that hats, both large and small,
should have dropping side trimmings
of some sort. This side trimming,
though not distinctly new, has been
Srrnly adopted by the Parisienne,
FOR il gives softening grace TO the
otherwise decidedly short, severe
tailorsd silhouette of the moment
which viii undoubtedly continue
through 1921.
The shapes are SO varied that
taere is no hard and fast rule. Hats
may be worn straight, tilted to one
side or slightly backward, but the
forward tilt, once considered SO
smart, no longer exists.
There are two new and rather
pronounced tendencies Of the season
which, although not as yet widely
snown, may easily become the fash
ION. One is the small, round Reboux
shape with four-inch bri1n and me-
dunn crown. The brim is slightly
rolled up at the right side and held
in place by q large plated rosette,
usually Of a different material. For
Instance black satin model has its
rosette of black grosgrain and the
edge Of the brirn piped with the
grosgrain. Reboux exploits this idea
extensively, and it is meeting with g
very big success among her exceed
ingly exclusive clientele.
The Rolling Brirn and
A Wealth of Feathers
THE other new thought comes
from Lewis in the form of
small hat, which achieves great
height at the back, not only on &C
count of its rolled-up brim, but by
the piling up of paradise or burnt
pheasant feathers. Both Sorel and
Eaber, of the Coincide Francaise in
Paris, have sponsored this type of
hat. That speaks we'll for its con-
tinuance.
Reboux is using coque feathers ex-
tensively. She entirely covers black
satin hats having rwo-inch brins
with these feathers in black and
prange, thus giving them a very
striking appearance. The coque
feathers are interspersed with black
pheasant tails in wild effect. On her
small toques, which she features,
considerable use is made Of black
satin ribbon loops. There are four
or FIVE, one on top Of the other, at
either side of the hat.
At Lewis's practically every hat
has a trimming Of some sort,
feather, flowers, ribbons or tassels
Of beads, placed under the briIn on
the right side. He features double
brins, and as an example of this
shows a hat with underbrim of rose
crepe de chine, with a thick roll edge
On the top Of the brirn Of black
crepe de chine. The crown lis also
Of the black crepe de china. AZ the
right side Is cluster Of pink roses,
TWO or three Of which are brought
to the underbrim and fall from long
stems in a trail of roses to the waist.
Larger Hats in
Silks and Straws
I EVILS also uses a notable amount
oS metal laces for entire hats.
One interesting model has q large
nrsn, turned up In the front. edged
with Silver braid. AZ the right side
u the byfm is @ fall Of ostrich
feathers, each long, uncuried plume
being weighted by pear-shaped sil-
yr cahcchon. This fall msy be
draped around Che neck Ia wagy De-
coming lines.
At this house enc sees few esaueas
but big percentage Of bxfzns, large
and small There as distinct naove-
nent Tor the very large hat, which
is narrow frvrn front to hack and
very wide from side 10 side.
Maria Guy ss making q great fea-
eurs OF gtrsw crowns with brins Of
craps de chime A lovely picture
nat Of white ersps dc chine, very
largss ss made cver cotton padding,
giving soft effect. &c has q bow