New-York tribune., 1921-02-06
Rrito1ls to Try
To Scale Roof
Of the W orld'
p.,,lerers Plan TO Climb
i Mount Everest, Highest
peak on Earth, Which No
White Man Has Reached
partv to Start Next Year
nake OF the Abruzzi Once
Asceuded to Within 1000
Feet of Giants Summit


s,vs viii attempt next year to scale
geans Everest the worids 5 highest
Aoy' s chose summit in the Himalsyas
4 14a feet above sea level. Many
,r,ssitions have tried to penetrate the
e.nknoxn Wilderness of ice-clad noun
.ajns that forms "the roof OF the
,o,~lsP but no white man has sue
|. .,afs5 in scaling the giant of the
Il ;T,nsslsvan Ranges. The most success
4 - s4tsn,pt was the dash made by the
4 nnte Of the AbruGzj, who reached a
1 !. lost Of 24,600 feet, 1000 feet below
| GgFIyest's five-mile high summit.
1 The new expedition, consisting of ten
4 voyishrlen and forty native porters. is
..-Gar the auspices of the Alpine Club
M tbe Royal Geographical Society.
;iestensnt- Colonel Sir Francis Young
lrehsnd. who opened Tibet and the
IIqssa Monastery 10 the world. is
r,esiaent Of the latter organization,
ri 4 is. said that he may lead the
Svnlorirg party. 4 preliminary re-
,es-eb group is 10 enter the HimaIayas
rsvt Nav TO explore the approaches to
NE mountain and also to establish
toad depots, and the dash for Everest
v;li take place in August aud Septem-
her. 1922. It is sand that airplanes
viii be sent from India 10 make pho
torraphic maps Of the surrounding
rasses, and the planes also may be
used 10 drop supplies at high altitude
birouacS.
Mount Everest Is il Nepal, north Of
India snd IS about ESQ miles southwest
Of Lhassa. TIE frozen plateaus and
polar ranges Of TINS country are one
Of the few uncharted regions of the
world. Explorers who attempt TO
reach the snow-bouud wastes of the
mountains ind many difficulties.
Natives Hamper Explorers.
For years hostile natives resisted
every attempt at exploration. Mr..
Nontagnier, Of the Alpine Club, on en-
tsring the village OF Asholey in Bull
t'staH during his expedition of 1903
found that the natives had taken to
the hills at his approach and from
peeipices showered stones upon his
party. Later, when this difficulty had
been partly overcome, explorations
we're officially discouraged because Of
thc conflicting interests of England,
Russia and Tibet in the border lands.
These political considerations were re-
moved last summer when Colonel
Howard Bury went to India and re-
ceived permission from both the Tibe-
tan and Indian governments to make
the proposed attempt to climb Everest.
Another feature is that few men can
stand the rarehed atmosphere of high
attitudes. At a certain point OF rare
icatlon the blood ceases to absorb
oxygen from the atmosphere and be-
gins to give off oxygen instead. This
at hTst causes Iassltude, but will result
n death unless the explorer descends.
IN 6fder to determine just how much
ae human body can endure, tests have
deen made IN closed chambers, from
ghlcA the air IS gradually pumped.
mis- SHOWS mans power CT resis-
ahce, but It IS impossible TO tell lust
Vnat the reaction viii be when the thin
air OF great heights is combined with
the eXertion OF climbing.
Mountain sickness" is definite
Mng, and many would-be explorers
Of it. =
Insomnia a Handicap.
Others cannot sleep at great heights.
insomnia being induced by the rarefed
sir- As two or three days are spent
n the ascent Of mountain, men who
90 not rest at night are weakened until
.aey are useless when the time comes
ior the final dash. Water will NOT boii
a. nigh attitudes, and once the sunnIv
u warm drinks in the thermos bottles
- exhausted explorers suffer from
.ack OF warm food Emergency rations
anheo foods and dried meats are taken
VI the expeditions, but these do NOT
slnee Tor the great exertion of climb
ing rock faces and ice slopes. Slinpsbv
m English explorer who ATTEMPTED to
seaie Mount hamei, returned broken in
asaIlh mh and did not recover for a wear
many other men have found that 4bev
s. De1e unable to stand the physical
'Ialh n OF climbing to great heights.
5r INC u inc greatest tests of en-
SelSuce G.. was DR.. Longstaf's ATTEMPT at
, oaEa Mandhata in 1905. Tbev had
spens week on the mountain. reach
~ height Of 24,00O feet, or 1870
,o ,se. lIom the summit Here thew en-
vJlaH.efed ,nl.id soft and treacherous snow
in 'en gave way and carried them down
go. "a avalanche Tor 1900 feet sue
Rssau5y jumping two small cliffs.
t,ia1 'ea IN the snow, they were ex-
snS s,1S@Led oy one Of the native ruides
M 1ns passed the night in hole on the
i,.oN-taihslde, without sufficient cloth
cas.9 as aaa with little food. They braveIv
;''IueO ;r'. their ascent the next morn
b,' bs' Dut were forced to turn back
he thin air. 3''D ~
Many Explorers Blocked
,ts@ M Climbing Mount TrissuI, DR.. Long
NJ :. ana Subadar Karbir BurathoEi
fa, Tue Gurka Rifles, reached 20 600
fo.s sau made camp there. but we're
syaiS y1Sso 70 descend when a blizzard and
Tba,1 Tb4.sheAes mada their camp untenabIe
ona S had remained in their light biv-
csro L seHts for thirty hours of burri-
v 'TItore I.re giving up the attempt. DR.
bis - orkman, who in company with
m.r TIe' Mrs. Fanny Bullock Work
b3sb' mas ms made many expeditions in the
"a 23eT Inn a'1s5malayas, reached the height Of
pJse;a-tee teet on a ridge above the Chogo
tbs S;a bultlstan. He has told of
heigb+aa lacuItles Of respiration at great
ogesn,L,, ogs, the feeling of lassitude that
sbl;t,ni ;tsneims the climber, and the in
po,a| 10 sleep we'll at attitudes of
lg AZ than 1900 feet.
coma @ these obstacles must be over
ssssnlt pS the men who plan the new
eynaI!. aait on Everest. The start of the
aortSaton aorISu.tlon will be from Darjeeling in
scient;shI sci~esh india. Here the climbers and
p0rta.Ssts p,a.lsts will find waiting them the
he rs.i and guides to be engaged by
AZ rpstellm!nary party of next Nav
tsek 4aa1eeling will begin the 26O-miie
thst !" ~ the base of Everest, a task
taEi,d ID IN itself a stupendous under
hsndisaa Baggage and supplies will be
the a+1eq vsl. by the native porters. and
win IL@A' the native domestic animal
tail Oe used for transportation. The
lhs n, ,Ieads at first up the valley of