The New York herald., 1921-10-23
Some Are Detachable So That
Several Pairs Can Be Worn
With One Gown.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.
Special Despatch to THE NEW York HnRALp.
PARIS. Oct. 10.
IA %UCH has been said about
MI sleeves. More will be said.
They have grown to such
proportions: they have created such
unusual stimulation IN the magma
tions Of the dressmakers that they
compel one to forget skirts. And that
Is well.
Surely the world is a bit weary Of
skirt discussions. This one particular
garment has been In the limelight for
several years. 1t has played the role
Of an exacting star. Jealous OF all other
parts Of the costume. demanding spot
light and compelling the constant at
tention Of the audience.
For a bit the skirt Is In abeyance.
It may not be in the background for
more than few months, but one
takes a long breath OF relief that it
is there. even If for little while.
When the sleeve came into the spot
light 1t came gently. timidly. some
what In the manner Of an ingenue.
It had no memories OF its past glory.
Sleeves do not study history. so they
took the laading part In the drama
Of clothes with an air OF hesitation.
They had a hard fght In front Of
them. for they had a powerful rival
in the short sleeve which had Haunted
itself In the public eye and had held
the public heart for two years.
The public is treacherous when It
comes to fashion. On the other hand
It does not like to be unduly disturbed.
walked with care when 1t first OBJ
served the long sleeves. 1t was not
willing to forego comfort. nor was 1t
willing to be behind fashion. There
fore 1t hesitated.
A year ago the long sleeve made its
appearance. Those who wrote OF 1t were
quickly chided for their work In trying
to serve the public by foretelling nm
event
AS a matter Of business too quick an
incoming Of tho long sleeve would have
been disastrous to those who held long
gloves. The world who dances had dis
carded long gloves for the evening and
the incoming Of the short sleeve had
produced a chance to sell thousands OF
them for the day hours As gloves are
still discontinued for tho evening and
long sleeves for the day were looming
over the horizon the glove people had
panic at the first announcement
II may have been for kindly rea~op
that the dressmakers held on their
amazing and compelling long sleeves for
several months. They offered them. the
seers knew they were coming. the canry
segment of the public began to take
stock In them, and under those condi-
tions the sleeve took It's position In the
spotlight with much hesitation and TIM
idity.
Appeared I'm Many Gowns.
BY last June II had gained confidence.
1t appeared In many, many gowns. rhe
August collection shown to Americans
In Paris saw It dominate the field. To-
day the short sleeve In day gowns ie
the exception.
No lack of imagination has hampercd
the invention OF the new sleeves. The
French study history and go to tie
museum for inspiration with the en-
thusiasm which has been urged upon
the dressmal<crs Of New York by the
directors Of the Metropolitan Museum OF
Art.
over here when people are viewing
new clothes they are thrilled by queer
bit of embroidery, an odd twist. OF the
cuff, curious opening down the back.
an odd manipulation of the armhole.
The onlookers speak Of II as something
new and thrilling. something to be
copied Immediately by the American
dressmakers to stimulate buying pub
lie. And yet that very thing was In
some old fashion plate or In costume
preserved by n museum. 1t was merely
lifted by clever dressmakcr to be ap-
piled to a modern gown.
The American dressmakers who are
anxious to create for themselves are
slow in learning to take advantage of
the wealth of ancient material which
has been garnered by libraries and mu-
seums for their research.
1t can be stated without humiliation
to the dressmakcrs OF Paris that all the
sleeves of the season have beer, taken
from history. We are heirs to all the