Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1921-01-09
BY STERLING HEILIG.

PARIS, January l, 1921.
N these high Paris restaurants,
when a dish is perfect. they say
that it is worthy of this or that
parsonage. Perfect snails are
worthy of De Dion, perfect Cha
teaubriand steak is worthy of Ana
tole France, a perfect foie-gras in
pie crust is worthy of Marshal Foch
and a perfect Rouen duck is worthy
of Senator CASTOR Menier There is
a race of gourmetS still alive in Paris.
But you cannot invent a new sauce.
even for new-rich gourmets. Scarce
ly four new sauces are invented per
century. And now it has been done.
Jean Souplet, French boy cook, ap-
prentice, who won second prize from
the chefs of Rome. desired to ex-
hibt in Paris his masterpiece-the
fatted pullet montreuil. These chefs
have their own annual salon, like
the painters Although a member OF
the association, he was forbidden to
exhibit. not by his chef. but by his
employer. proprietor of one of those
small. expensive restaurants.
NETS. from the Comtesse de
Noailies and Cecile Sorel to the Grand
Duke Paul and Nobel of the prizes,
would have taken up the gifted
youths defense had they known his
predicament-which they didn't, nor
could have. But three other very
different personages. hedged with the
divinity of kings, stood by the French
boy cook. Cedard, chef of the kitch-
ems of King George. daniel of the
iv.iy, nd I a
of Orleans up for the salon. went
with Barre, the Edmond de Roths-
child chef, ate lunch at the restau-
rant, paid a big bill and asked for
the boss.
They told their titles. He was over
he asked gayly. Permit Jean Souplet
to exhibit the fatted pullet mon
treuil." they answered.
The thing has been sensation
since. The outlets of breast meat
(from another pullet). each dabbed
with it's round of truff1e. were coated
with layers of a new thick sauce
paste: and this (never mind the Mon
treuil peaches" of a mousse of foie-
gras) was the novelty. The boy had
invented a new sauce-and there are
not three new ones in a century!
1t is thick. cream colored. in the
nature of a mayonnaise, but the Sc
verest judges, tasting 1t again and
again, were quite of accord-it Is
completely new, with a perfume due
probably to a PURGE of nuts. not al
monds. Great cooks and millionaires
speak OF the boy. Jean Souplet. as
painters and patrons would speak of
a new Raphael. They made him sec
ond in the gourmandizing Cercle
lAgricole-the greatest club, that of
the landed proprietors-on condition
that he keep his secret for them dur
ling four years. Yet the new sauce
figures in many restaurants.
New dishes are more frequent
Chicken fillets Rigolboche is the
Creation" of M. Caressa. a friend OF
Joseph Galtier of the Temps news
paper, himself gourmet and of
whom the hot duck pie la royale
when it is perfect, is said to "be
worthy" They are great on hot pie
crust for meat dishes since the war
The fllets Rigolboche of the white
meat only are served with slices OF
foie-gras in a sauce of paprika and
mushroom PURGE, along with red and
green peppers, the whole piping hot
in melting pie crust.
Caressa has given his dish to tina,
little restaurant al
ways crowded with illustrious gour-
NETS. from Aga Khan and the Due
d'Oldenbourg to Marthe Regnier and
Mistinguette-the establishment OF
Prosper Montague, who styles him
self old-fashioned and modest "trai-
fteur."
\ X X X
TTALF the doughboys who were n
L Paris will remember the spot. al.
though they would rub their eyes a,
the miraculous change. Do you re-
member the Red Cross sales COM
| missariat at the corner of the Rue de
lrEchelle around behind the Regina
Today, it is dark colors, blue predomi-
mating, with heavy furniture. dancing
lights from a visible kitchen. and