Evening star., 1921-02-27
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

~H HE most significant fact to be
noted by the milliners at the
present time is that bobbed
= hair will soon be a thing OF
the past. so far as adult fashions are
concerned. =
Just as the bobbed coiffure, was
more prevalent in Paris than it was
in our American cities. so the passing
Of this mode of hair arrangement
causes more remark there than it does
here. Almost every letter that comes
from the French capital commenting
on fashions mentions the fact tnat
the mode. is passing as rapidly as 1t
is possible for such mode to pass.
And when it passes 1t will be for
good. One cannot still retain TINS
comfortable coiffure for daytime and
produce sufficient length of hair fer
one OF the new psyches over n>gnt,
even when the hairdressers supply the
actual psyche knot to eek out the
shorn locks.
The passing Of the bobbed hair also
means the passing of the hair worn
to produce a bobbed effect. The ar
rangement that seems to be forcing
the old one into the background is
some version Of the psyche-a psyche
skiiifuily. at a rather difficult
angie midway between the nape' .of
the neck and the crown of the head
II you choose, you may regard your
head as globe, with your chln a
south pole Then the new psyche
comes at the north pole. An arrange
ment, by the way, easier for the artist
to draw than for most women to Wsear.
Obviously the reason why this
r,f ia ca.
portant to the milliners is because.
whether they choose to look at 1t that
way or not, one Of their chief prob
lens is TO make hats that will mt
comfortably, and conveniently the
women who are to wear them.
in bdbbed effect their problem was not
dificuit. All, that the crown of the
hat had TO do was to make room for
the head. It need show no considera-
tion for puffs;- curls or easily disheN-
eled coils on top, o. OF the s, mead, a,a., .,..,
in Paris dare off the hair at the. back,
and the reason given for the. exist
ence Of these hats is that they ac-
commodate the hair elaborateiy ar
other way of accommodating the hair
is to make the crowns much more
roomy. and this may be done by way
of a crown that is large in every re
spect, or only in one. in poke, style
that bulges toward the back.
Many hats have been produced in
Paris with very large crowns. but
for some reason or other the Amer
ican milliners have been weary OF
these large crowned hats for Amer
lean women. They say that American
women do not like the crown that is
big and full. Time will prove whether
or not the importers have been good
psychologists.
The dressmakers who swear most
faithfully by everything that ema
mates from Paris, feeling Something g
not unlike scorn for American design
ing, rather pooh h-pooh the idea of the
directoire styles in frocks and suits
and wraps This is, of course. be-
cause the American designers have
been pushing the directoire type OF
dress within the last few months
while the French have not. But the
directoire idea in hats is a different
proposition. The French milliners
are quite strong in their support OF
this period. They go frankly TO the
old cuts of styles worn just before
the empire for their inspiration
There are a number of so-called tri-
corne shapes that seem to be inspired
by the masculine hat Of the day and
! the poke bonnet furnishes a moti1