davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07

Roads have spent great deal Of money
in recent years in building repair shops
and in installing modern machine tools,
etc, but even with the interest charges
on these facilities being taken into ac-
count and allowance made for the fact
that they must properly be considered
as part of the cost of maintenance of
equipment whether the actual work is
done in these shops or whether they
are allowed to stand idle, there is evil
dence to show that it s, at times,
cheaper to give out car repair work BY
contract than to do it in railroad shops.
No conclusion has been reached in
regard to what should be done by rail-
road managers, the Interstate Com
mcrce Commission, which investigated
the subject on its own initiative, or by
the Labor Board, on which rests the
responsibility of continuing or modi-
flying the national agreements. Ger
tain facts have, 90 far. been brought
out. 1t has been reasonably clearly
shown that piece work intelligeptly
as the Buffalo, Rochester & Pitts
burgh. and the New York Central, is
more economical for the railroad, and
under it men in the mechanical depart
ment earn more a week than where an
hourly basis Of wages is applied. That
it was not always intelligently or
fairly applied WAS also brought out.
II was shown clearly that organized
labor has SO strong prejudice against
piece work that as long as the national
agreements continue. any modification
of them in this respect will be strongly
resisted; Probably railroad manage
ments themselves learned good deal
about the costs of their own mechani-
cal departments that they had never
before suspected. 1t was brought out,
WITH q reasonable amount Of certainty,
that the national agreements, as now
enforced, make railroad repair shops
closed union shops
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Cost of Materials

! ings at Utrecht are being replace
with permanent structures. The cor
nerstone of the first was laid by the
Princess Juliana last year and it is
rapidly nearing completion. The cost
of the building was borne by Dutch
manufacturers, whose contribution OF
1900 each toward the total of $500 ,00C
established their right to one perma-
nent exhibition room in the building
Manufacturers of other countries will
be permitted to participate in the con-
struction of the second permanent fair
building.
The different classifcations of prod
rcts which will be exhibited at the fair
are:
/. Foodstuhs and luxuries.
2. Electricity, machinery and metal
industry.
8. Industrial requisites, rubber and
fuel.
a. Building material.
b. Gold and silver articles
8. Printing, paper, Office requisites
and appliances.
Z. Textile industry, ready-mad cloth
ing.
8. Chemical and pharmaceutical
products.
3. Paints and varnishes.
~. Leather.
H. Wood, cork, basket work, straw
~. Earthenware, china, glass.
IL. Household, toilet and sport arti-
cles.
ID Musical Instruments.
Is. Agriculture, horticulture and cat
tie breeding.
16. Economical services.
Among the Dutch houses specializing
in representing American manufacture
ers at the fair is the Internationale
Handles Onderneming, of Utrecht, of
which B. Boekhoudt is the director
Mr.. Boekhoudt was formerly Governor
Of the Dutch West Indies ard is we'll
known in the United States as an
ardent propaganda in favor of the
annexation of the Dutch West Indies
to the United States.
Further information regarding the
fair is available at the Chamber of
Commerce for the Netherlands, "A
Beaver Street.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Many Shops Idle

For some months now shops for heavy
repairs on the Eastern roads have
not been in operation. To estimate ac
curately, therefore, whether it would
be better to do the work with railroad
forces, working in accordance with the
wage scales laid down by The Labor
Board and under national agreements
which the Labor Board has, as yet, re-
fused to modify, or to give the work
out to private shops, it cannot be as
sumed that the railroad organization is
formed and stands ready to begin work
on a moments notice. In comparing
costs it is necessary to take into con-
sideration both overhead costs and the
costs of organizing. In the exhibits
which some of the Eastern railroads
prepared for the Interstate Comm cree
Commission an attempt was made to
work out a fair and comprehensive
basis Of comparison.
A basic cost was worked out for each
class of work. For instance, the cost
of removing an airbrake part, renew
ing certain material IN it, cleaning it
and replacing it was determined, as
nearly as possible and divided as be-
tween labor, materials and overhead
Labor and materials included only the
actual cost of doing this work, and only
such items of overhead as directly APP
piled to the work, were assigned to
these accounts. Thus, depreciation OF,
the shop in which the work WAS done
was charged to materials, but the costs
of general supervision, the general Of
fee, etc, were not included. These
general overhead costs were Jumped to-
gether and shown separately as third
element. On the basis of this yard.
stick, both railroad shops and outside
contractors were asked to make q. bid
on the work that will have to be done
in the near future, showing separately
what each kind of repair work could
be done for, as percentage Of the
yardstick cost. For instance, they were
asked to bid on the repair and clean
ing Of an airbrake part, showing labor
as 90 per cent or 125 per cent, as the
ease might be, of the yardstick cost, ma.
terials on a percentage basis, and over.
head on percentage basis. 1t was
found, in general, that private contrac-
tors could put in a lower bid on the
first and third items of cost than coulc
the railroad companies own shops.
Cost Of Materials
| There is an error, however, on tn,
other side that should be taken int
consideration. The Interstate Com
merce Commission rules provide tina
materials used in repairs for equip
ment shall be charged for at cost
! Thus, the locomotive and car parts ant
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Bathing Suits for 1922
New Lines To Be Shown the
Trade Tomorrow

One line that promises we'll for the
spring, 1922. season is that Of knitted
bathing suits, which will be priced and
sampled tomorrow by most of the
manufacturers here, in keeping with
an agreement to open the market
simultaneously. adopted some time ago
The bathing suit business this year has
coeen exceptionally good, although late
IN starting. The strong demand found
retailers short of stock and consider
able re-ordering was resorted to
throughout the season. Even vet. re-
orders for the current season are com
ing in to the manufacturers.
hnitted suits for women, particularly
OF the California type, one piece suit
with overhanging skirt, have gained
ground rapidly.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
.HE possibility Of developing
the linen industry in Aus

the linen industry In Aus
tralia is receiving serious at
tention, and it may be that before
long the requisite machinery will be
obtained in England for fax-spin-
ming mill, Interviewing factory
and bleaching works. 1t is contended
that the demand for linen in suffi-
Gent to make the business profitable.
Annual linen imports to Australia
are valued at 81 100000, according to
The Melbourne Age, which says of the
project:
at has been proved that best quality
fax can be grown in this country, and
during the war Great Britain bought
Australian fax and paid over $500 a
ton for it. The price of fax has since
slumped considerably, owing to the un-
settled state of the worlds markets and
to the fact that there are large accu-
muiated stocks of linen piece goods
which were manufactured from fax
bought at the top price. These goods
are proving difficult to dispose of be-
cause of the general trade depression
throughout the world
But this is state OF affairs that
can only be of temporary duration
As soon as the worlds markets right
themselves linen goods will again be
in general demand, and unless Australia
makes some provision to manufacture
its own requirements it will continue
to be dependent on overseas supplies,
and there is every indication that as
soon AS trade conditions become nor
NAL imported linen goods will cost con-
siderably more than they did before
the war. One reason for this, of course,
IS the increased cost of production, but
the main reason is to. be found in tho
reduced area now under fax compared
with the position before the war. Rus
STA, which used to grow twice as much
flax as the rest of the world put to-
gether, has practically gone out OF the
business for the time being, and it
will probably be years before that
country begins to export fax again
in any large quantities. Thus. Aus
traiia is presented with a golden
opportunity to increase its FAX pro-
duction and at the same time es-
tablish an industry that will convert
the raw material into the finished
article.
Very little fax was grown in Aus
traila prior to the war, but when Great
Britain began to need flax for war re
quirements the industry was given en-
couragenent in the Commonwealth
and growers were guaranteed S. a ten
for all fax they grew tsee commerce
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
British Cotton 7'rade
so P. C.. Of Last Year

Britain's manufactured cotton
trade, one of the most important of
her industries, continues far be-
low normal Recent reports indi-
cate that her export trade is a
little better than half of what it
was year ago. Great Britain's
exports of cotton cloth in June
totaied only 1862, 639,500 square
yards, compared with average
monthly exports during 1920 of
$40, 600, 900 square yards. Her cx-
ports of yarn in June were only
8,737 200 pounds, compared with
average monthly exports during last
year Of 12,730,00o pounds.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
West Virginia Glass and
China Trade Dull
Special Dispatch IN The Tribune

CHARLESTON, w. Va, Aug. o.
Employment in West Virginia factone
declined about 10 per cent betvesa
Jane : and July Is, according TO ~
ports made to the state bureau v
labor.
On June l 127 manufacturers ens
ployed %. 224 persons. By July 81, e
this number had been reduced Io, o.
decrease of 4,012 employees. -.
metal working and glass indus'li.s
suffered greatest through the cspfes,
sion. which reached all sections y
the state.
The depression is partly due, sons
manufacturers hold, TO the hot suma,lI.
months, during which business = :.
ways light, they say. A genera -
sumption in manufacturing is expess.irf
by heads of most concerns in late i -
We look for no Improvement IN g.
glass industry until new wage 80.
for skilled men is made" comn'sp,s.st
tie st. Adams Glass Company, 81 &.
Adams. This will be arrived 81 - :.
first week in August in conference. e. =,
tween manufacturers and eoman,ss -,
Of blowers. The public expects is "a
prices. Freight rates also VIII % -
to be reduced on both incoming =
outgoing material"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Equipment Companies
To Benefit From W ork

Indications that equipment COM
panies are continuing TO get plenty
of repair work were seen in the
announcement during the week that
railroads had distributed orders for
repairs to about 5000 cars, requir-
ing about $1,000 tons Of steel. 1t
was assumed that the larger con-
Germs which handle this class Of
business were getting all the orders
they needed.
Equipment dealers believe that
this development will pave the way
for buying new cars and that or
ders from railroads for equipment
will soon be placed on a larger
scale. Even without new car orders
many equipment companies are
finding plenty of business In max
ing repairs.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Dutch Fair Gains Prestige
Exhibition at Utrecht Taking Its Place as One of
Most Important Affairs of Kind i'm
Europe Since War
THE annual fair at Utrecht,
Holland, to be held this year

"HE annual fair at Utrecht,
Holland, to be held this year
September 6 to 16, was born
in war times to keep the manufac-
turing industries of the Netherlands
alive. So successful did it prove in
stimulating trade and preventing
the threatened shutdown of fac
tories that the Dutch people now
regard it as an established institu-
ton. 1t has the patronage as we'll
as the financial support of the
Dutch government, and stands out
to-day as one of the principal fairs
of the European Continent.
Opened in February. 1917, as an at
tempt to restore the old Dutch custom
of holding national fairs. the National
Industries Fair encountered the great
est initial difficulties. Enterprising
manufacturers soon discovered that it
was their only hope for bolstering a
trade that was severely handicapped
by Hollands geographical position be-
tween the warning powers. But as a
result of the energetic support which
the fair has received the exhibition
space has quadrupied in area since
1917, until now the Utrecht fair is the
greatest event of. its kind in Europe
except the Lyons and some of the. Eng
lish bazaars.
From its beginning the Utrecht fair
attracted wide attention. The first
four years it was operated as . purely
national institution, but as result OF
the growth in interest in its displays
and the expressed desire of foreign
manufacturers to take a part in it the
scope of the exhibitions has been
changed this year to international.
Representatives of manufacturers IN
the United States as we'll as from all
European countries and many from the
Dutch East and West Indies will take
part:
With the assistance Of the Dutch
government, the tcnporary fair build
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Call Style Evolution

Some of the foremost women's cloth
ing designers in this city, the center of
the wonlen's apparel industry for the
country, assert that style is an evolu-
ton coincident with our civilization.
AS an illustration of this, one designer
compared the pinched-in waist, the
huge g-of-mutton sleeves, the ground
sweeping skirts Of the late sos and
early SOS to the more comfortable
garments which are worn by womsn
to-day. This, says the designer. is the
result of the greater social freedom Of
the modern woman, and is due in part
to the entrance of women into the field
of sports. AS the American woman
has grown into more of an outdoor
creature, doing many of the things
that were formerly considered only
mans prerogative. her clothes have
been adapted to her changed position
in life.
The growth of golf and tennis as
American sports in the last few years
has exerted an influence on mems
styles that is difficult to estimate
Some designers of mems clothing say
that sports have been responsible for
the almost complete elimination of
suspendcrs. Who heard of sports shoes
few years ago? Now almost every
man and woman in the country has at
icnst one pair, even though they are
not worn exclusively while engaged in
some sports activity. A man who has
charge OF large wholesale fur de-
partment here has many times declared
that the automobile is responsible for
the increased use of fur garments in
this country and was responsible for
the summer furs," unknown few
yeas ago
"The summer fur" he says, twas
born oil necessity. The wealthy woman
at the seashofe often found it cool,
even on comparatively warm nights.
while riding in her. car. She began
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Geographical Positions

Since it has been for years a tenet
OF the creed Of the Southern industrial
protagonist that the cotton mill shouic
be built in or near the cotton field til e
question may be examined.
ii proximity to the cotton field were
of such Importance Texas would have
long ago become one of our leading
cotton manufacturing states in the
South, instead of this state of immense
size and Importance in raw cotton pro-
duction having fewer spindies and
looms than are operated by many q
single company in both the North and
South: Nor are the mills in the Caro-
linas in any particularly favorable DO
sition as regards their raw materials.
Most of them have to bring their cot
ton long distances overland, added
freight charges making the cost up to
and IN many cases above the price the
Northern spinner pays for a like quail
ity laid down at his mill.
Tie Southern mill also suffers from
heavier freight charges on the finished
products getting to market as we'll as
on practically all the mill supplies,
which have to be bought in important
quantities year in and out, not to men
ton the great total OF capital tied up
IN merchandise, aggregating vast sums
tances over single track roads on slow
moving freight trains.
Consider, by contrast, the English
cotton spinner. At this time he pays
81 cents hundred pounds for the
transport of cotton from North Allan
tic ports to Liverpool. and the freight
from Savannah to New York is DO
cents a hundred pounds. Another
advantage the Lancashire spinner has
is that his mills are much nearer the
ports than are the American mills
The whole difference is vividly illus
trated by the plant of Lancashire
authority, Arthur Watson, who laments
that on the average a bale Of cotton
landed in Liverpool in its journey to
the spinner, and the yarn from the
spinner to weaver. cloth from weaver
to Manchester and from there to fin
Usher and return. and finally to ship
board for export, has to cover total
of 1881 miles
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Large Plants Facilities

In large plants, such as Baldwin and
the American, arrangements can be
made to permit this kind of work. In a
smaller plant, more nicely adjusted to
the economical work of assembling and
erecting a liew locomotive, repair work
is likely to prove extremely expensive.
There are few other plants through
out the country besides the American
and Baldwin that can handle locomo
tive repairs, but without attempting to
forecast the commissions conclusions
from it's hearings it would appear that
the problem of locomotive repairs is
one which, with railroads situated a
long way from the few outside loco
motive builders plants, will be an
academic rather than a practical one.
This is not true with car repairs.
Most of the work in repairing is done
on the track where the car stands and
there is comparatively little moving
back and forth of heavy materials.
There are car building plants in many
parts of the country. In general they
are open shops, many using piece work,
having good organizations of shop man
ayers, foremen and skilled employees
unhampereu by national agreements.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
81, 100000 Sales at Exhibit

BUSINESS placed at the popular
priced Merchandise Fair, held at the
list Regiment Armory last week, to-
tailed more than 100000 according
to an announcement by the Merchant
disc Exhibit Company, which promoted
the event. This was about $4,000
more than was Melted at the February
fair, this year. Buying on the part
OF retailers was strongest in the tex
tile and ready-to wear departments.
More than 800 exhibitors displayed
their samples at the fair. Included
among the buyers were some of the
largest department stores and mail
order houses in the country, according
to the nrOmo tors
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
L. S. Cotton Trade
Out of the Shadows
Advantages Held by British Competitors
Disappearing as Development Pro-
ceeds; Review of Situation
By William Whittam

N failing Of
articles foreign trade is that they ebeished
with generaie fireworks that detract attention from
The fundamentals and students Of international
follow false trails Nevertheless though rather well known
normal volume American trade particularly manuac
articles will bounds combination
Obviously these will be handicaps
industrial
organization and method
adoption of better
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Freight Difficulties

While on the subject of freight
charges it is we'll to remember that
our mills are so scattered and many
of them so remote from the machine
and supply makers that the cost of
carriage of such necessary articles to
the factories is Unfortunately high.
while in England these supplies are
within easy distance of the mills when
they are not, as is most common, IN
the same town
The advantages are by no means all
on the side of the Britisher, for in the
important matter of power and fuel
we, in America, are especially we'll off
by comparison. Many Southern mills
are driven by hydro electric power at
low cost, as are some in the North.
and those dependent on steam power
are in a relatively .enviable position,
as the pit-head prices of coal in the
United States are far below those pre-
vailing in England.
There is distinct advantage in hav-
ing spinning and weaving operations
carried on by separate companies, par
ticularly when foreign trade in the
fancy sorts is to be catered to. Be
cause the modern loom is most
adaptable machine, capable of making
a wide range of fabrics from yarns of
an equally great range of fneness and
quality, while the spinning and pre-
paratory machines are much more linn
tied in the kinds of yarns they can
turn out. Hence the weaver can buy
whatever yarns he requires to make
the cloth needed in the active mar
kets, changing yarns, styles and
weights to meet the market changes,
and his own requirements.
Here, or the contrary, mills are gen
orally both spinners and weavers, and
as a consequence are compelled to
turn out limited range of goods, J
serious restriction on catering fol-
markets requiring goods differing
widely in construction.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
Many Influences Combine to Cause
Changes in Fashions, but Whether They
Are Successful Dep ends Upon BUYERS

wearing small fur neckpiece for pro-
lection. The shopgirl, who is quick to
initiate anything that the fashionable
class does, picked up the Style, Soon
we saw summer furs worn in midday
on our streets: 1t is not sensible, hut
IT IS fashionable. From such influences
as these styles are made"
A more specific answer to the uuss-
ton of who creates styles was given
by successful woman designer EN-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
THO THE average layman the
question of fashion or style

is most likely a personal
one. But to those in the business of
making and selling the garments
and accessories which we wear style
is an all-important factor. In many
lines Of merchandise it is the factor
that determines the difference be-
tween profit and loss, the difference
between successful and an I'M
successful season. Considered from
purely business angle, style is the
thing that has built up the mighty
clothing industry in this country,
and has massed around that industry
host of smaller trades which give
employment to hundreds of thou
sands and possibly millions of
workers.
Few persons, even among the poorer
classes, buy their clothing from q
strictly unitarian standpoint. The
present depressed state of business, al
though it has brought out spirit of
increased economy, has seen no let
down in the demand for style. In fact,
some retailers say the styled merchan
disc is outselling the staple merchan-
disc, that which changes little or not ut
all from season to season.
Who is it, then; that is respons bls
for style changes? In other words
who creates style? This question was
put to large number of manufactur.
ers of so-called styled or fashionable
merchandise and to dealers in fashion,
able articles. Their answers to the
question are exceedingly varied. NJ
two agree on the details, but through
them all runs strain of similarity
from which it can be deduced thai
style is the result Of a vast number Of
influences, exerted by designers al
over the world and by the mass psy.
chology of the great shopping public,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1921-08-07
: Financing Cotton Exports

WASHINGTON. Aug. s.-The War
Finance Corporation announced that it
had agreed to make an advance of
100000 to a Southern exporter to
finance the expectation of cotton from
Georgia, North Carolina and South
Carolina. The cotton under this loan
is to be held in warehouses for exnorx
within period of six months.