The Elk Mountain pilot., 1921-10-06

| Inc Ndlfcy, SuDJcCt " wet IDOnSOOn
mists, is green with juniper, willows,
and mountain ash. Right down to the
green vegetation came the ice and
snow. Of the two mountains Makalu
is from the valley by far the more
beautiful and striking, as Everest
stood back too far and did not show
its great height. Gigantic cliffs
lightly powdered with snow came
straight down for 1000 feet into the
VALLEY. On either side were perpen-
dicular cliffs of black rock so steep
that snow and ice were unable to
lodge on them.
Below the cliffs started the Kang-
doshang glacier, which swept across
the valley until it struck the other
side and forced a glacier stream COM
ing from the Kangshung glacier of
Everest to enter great ice cavern
in order to pass under it. Some ten
or twelve miles higher up Everest
filed the head of the valley in the
shape of a great semi-circle, with
precipitous southeastern ridge, over
$4,000 feet, sweeping out towards
Makalu. No Tibetans know Makalu
by that name; their name is Chomolo-
endo.
From our camp we descended into
the valley crossing the Rabkar stream
coming down from the Rabkar gla-
cier. We then assembled green val
ley leading towards our objective
cleaning high white in front of US.
Kangdoshung glacier formed decid-
ed obstacle to our progress, and it
was a steep climb to get above it.
But after this we came to grassy pas
lures extending some eight miles up
the valley, practically to the foot of
Everest.
Here, at Pethangringmo, 16,400
feet, we found shepherds with herds
of yak. Here too, we found the tents
of Bullock and Mallory. They, how
ever, had gone farther up the valley
for a couple of nights, returning the
: following day. 1t was a delightful
camp in the sunniest spot and only a
mile from Makalu's towering cliffs,
: the SHOWS of Everest filling the head
of the valley
In the morning started early with
couple of coolies to go up spur
some miles farther up the valley and
Immediately opposite Everest. The
weather at first was unfavorable and
the valley filled with cloud, but get
ting above 1880 feet, we suddenly
emerged into blue sky with a most
glorious panorama in front of us.
Over ninety miles away to the east
could be seen the tops cs Kinchin-
junga and Jannu appearing above a
sea of cloud, while Everest and other
lofty ridges stood up straight in
front across the valley, with formid-
able black cliffs descending sheer for
1000 feet on to glaciers, above which
were hanging glaciers.
All day one heard the roar of great
pieces of ice breaking off from them
and crashing into the Krangshung
glacier below.
From this side and from this am
|
directly attacking the great noun
tain. The lofty southeast ridge de-
scended most precipitously to high
pass beyond, which was a very prom
inent conical peak, followed by an
other pass, then snow slopes finally
merging into the Makalu. Northeast
of Everest were confused masses OF
snow peaks.
Between this approach to Everest
and the Rognbuk valley appeared to
be another valley. Toward this the
i Alpine climbers were now turning
their attention, trying to discover
into which valley the glaciers came
down. Therefore, after pronouncing
that there were no possible means of
getting up Everest from the east,
they went back direct to the Kharat-
sangpo valley, and are now following
the river to its source.
| / went back another way to the
east of Makalu and was we'll reward
ed by some magnificent views of its
two great peaks. We went down first
the valley of Shinchuthoungkar,
which has forests of silver fir and
juniper with long gray lichens hang
ing down from every bough, wild
roses, and most luxurious vegetation.
From the east of Makalu, from be-
tween it's twin peaks, big glacier
descends to 10000 feet 1t was very
| curious tn sec birch and fir trees
growing on either side of the ice.