The New York herald., 1921-05-08

Parsians are going in quite strongly
for primitive red, and IL is having Its
innings here. 1t is surely the most vio-
lent contrast to black that could be ac-
cepted. 1t takes darinsiy successful
woman to combine frock of lustreless
black Canton crepe with a red hat, that
red without hint Of purple or gray
or brown in 1t.
VIII Fringe Last LOnEf
On these black gowns that America
has taken to her heart there Is fringe
that astonishes all those who thought
that his accessory was finished whole
season ago. The conservative dress
makers advise against it: they have
prophesied, rightly, that the cheapest
kind Of ready to wear clothes would swing
with fringe. Some shops have cleared
out the frocks that were trimmed with
it. but many orders come In from
women who are determined to wear it,
or who do not yet realize that 1t is the
type of thing most easily run to ground
by overpopularity.
Let US have our chance at It," they
say. And they take II.
The French women have gone through
certain odd phases in dress since the
war that Is unlike them. They have in
sisted upon a standardized costume, for
object to being dressed alike by thous-
a1ds. which Is the very thing to which
they have shown strong opposition. Here
has been the standardized costume: a
black frock without sheen, several
strings OF small pearls. the bare arms
covered with slender jewelled brace
let's; the hat black. the shape OF small
turban or one with elongated sides with
a long fantasie of some kind of plumage
swooping down over one shoulder
Her sleeves have grown longer with
the spring, her skirt has dropped lit
tie. the string girdle has become most
complicated sash and her one time skirts
are accentuated at the sides. not al
ways by bulges, but by flat pleatings or
handkerchief points with picot edges.
The one thing in the costume that Is not
black is the stocking. 1t Is beige or
gray. This is the costume we have ac-
cepted.
Favorable, but Not UnisersaI Here
While there is small doubt Of the pop
ularity of this kind OF costume III Amer
lea and OF it's being held up as the
thing TO wear, we are too unwieldy
a mass TO present a solid front IN one
exact type Of frock and hat Sufficient
numbers will break away from the most
discussed fashion to give variety. which
Is the spice OF dressing. Every woman
may possess one dead black costume In
her wardrobe, but she will not keep to Ii
as steady diet She will incorporate
black in many of her colored costumes
no doubt, but that can be done in
manner that will not suggest a funeral.
Nor will all women accept the verdict
for black without lustre. They will
wear jet, for instance, also the satin
that Is lacquered. cire satin, Il is called,
and white touches will enliven the sur
face, or colored crystals VIII shine out
on evening gowns.
A gown which Is built with silver
brocade trousered skirt has a tight 1T
ting black velvet bodice. black slippers
with silver stockings and a black tulle
and satin mantle. That's a new treat
ment OF black.
Another gown OF black cire satin worn
In the afternoon has extra long sleeves
and an irregular skirt with all the edges
finished with perforated white Kid,
Surely that Is a startling and unusual