The New York herald., 1921-10-16

snail shells, the lace pantalettes, the
lace trousers, the life savers belts. rs
they are called. the twelve inch belts
OF leather. unvarnished. that are girded
around the figure at the end OF the
| spine. The latter feature. which was
begun by Callot, made man exclaim:
Loosen the harness. No horse could
pull uphill with that"
There are other accessories that are
equally, ,venturesome. There Is the scarf
that turns an evening gown into one
for the street. There is the sleeve that
Is tied above the elbow and hangs to the
knees. there Is the bow of black moire
ribbon fastened on one bare shoulder
with two streamers, one front and one
back. floating to the floor.
There are square trousers OF dark
colored satin that reach to tn, ankle
worn under colored tulle gowns that
reach to the instep: there Is the balay-
euse of pleated muslin or lace placed at
the hsm Of six yard skirts. In lis
former day Of glory II was accompanied
by a pair of square pantalettes of
starched white cambric. and knowing
this the well known artists In dress
have contributed the lace pantalettes 10
the wide skirt with It's lace dust ruffie,
as 1t was once called.
Jeanne Lanvin invented, or rather re-
vived. an old Italian belt, which once
swept through Europe and was In its
time an accessory of mems clothes al
wei as OF womens. One of the young
writer's in Paris instantly nick-named Il
life savers belt. It looks like an in.
feted tube that one can float on or or
which one learns to swim. It also sug
gests horn of wine made of meta
cloth swung around the figure below tn,
vyo In lob,
Is graceful but difficult for woman e
carry. 1t Is a small. inflated roll. stuffed
instead Of filled with air. covered will
silver cloth, attached to the gown ovei
each hip and drawn tightly across TIL,
abdomen Above 1t the gown Is pulled
into looseness
To go with II Lanvin makes a wide
lattice work of fine silver braid to form
the upper part Of the bodice. which Il
c'it In the italian ncckline. also for tn,
lower part of the sleeves. which hans
over the hands.
There Is evidence on every side thai
this belt, which tho men Insist upon call
ing an automobile tire, will be used a<
IN exclusive fashion In it's entirety. anc
limitations or adaptations of II will bC
plentiful because OF its novelty.
The fact that one type of gown carrie.
a large padded belt across the front Of
.he figure ard another type carries q
twelve inch leather belt across the bach
OF the figure. giving tho impression OF q
woman sitting In n swing. is n good pic
ture OF the divergence OF fashions to-
day.
There are a few definite feature:
that the woman OF fashion must fol
low. but the rest is chaos.
Attempt 70 Retain Classic Lines.
No one can regard fashion as q
whole and insist that the Second Ein.
pire and gorgeous medievaiism rules
all. There IL strong undcrcurrcnt ol
feeling for the Greek line. Designers
like Molyneux. Worth. Cailot insist
upon showing gowns that have the
grace and dignity OF those worn ir
Athens when she was showing tbs
world what a republic could he.
The purity OF the Greek style does
not contribute as much nodesty 70 the
scene az gowns OF other cpochs. The
leg Is apt to show IN front or AZ tho
side. and the arms and shoulders arc
hare. but the simplicity Of the rowr
IL appealing. Worth contributes some
remarkably lovely gowns OF this type
u Is preemireniiv the kind OF thirc
Tho house does with distinction. He
has forsaken the ubiquitous black ve'-