davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1921-10-09

must look we'll to discover the pic
torial value Of the fabric. unlike the
Caliot fabrics and those OF Worth.
would have big Chinese dragons.
symbols Of the Pacific countries. It
would have been foolish for Poiret to
attempt to manipulate this fabric into
drapery or to ornament 1t. He makes
Of 1t a wide. wide skirt, a straight
blouse. large sleeves. and touches the
Russian hat goes with It.
In opposition; to this he builds q
Venetian gow1 Of capucine red satin
covered with a fine gold thread trac-
cry which hangs in straight line
from neck to toes. passes between the
train. where it is Joined by two
straight widths Of black velvet that
go over the arms. That's all there Is
to this sumptuous frock. You, the
reader. probably say that is quite
as 1t is. So much for the complexity
Of simplicity.
Such fabrics as Poiret uses are new
ones for the season; they are not the
preference of an individual designer.
There Is a concerted movement among
are aiding and abetting Bianchini and
Ducharne in their expensive efforts to
create a demand. widespread. for
sumptuous materials that are covered
with ancient fguration. Pictorial fab
a,es an impertant ae m ta step backWard IN drea.
Not only China and Japan. but that
immense land that rested on the
deserts and the inland seas, believed
in the beauty Of pictorial fabrics. We
are dipping into their arts; Why not
have adopted the hip ceinture. tho
several skirts. superimposed. the
frightened body below the waist line,
the long sleeves that touch the floor?
A LII the ingenuity expressed in new
"A arm coverings has not ended in
the sleeve which merely covers the
arm. There is the scarf Of Callot and
Molyneux which crosses the shoulders
and hangs to the door. a scarf which
these designers ask you to drop when
you enter the house, merely another
method Of taking off the sleeves in
the house. This is the new trick of
the season.
There are immense sleeves Of square
pieces of colored or embroidered fab
ric which snap to the top of the
shoulder and cover the arm when in
the street, others which are attached
to an evening gown merely to vary
1t from extreme decollette. Again
there are several pairs arranged to
vary a gown from day to day.
with pictorial fabrics at ones hand
in Paris, it is easy to follow the FASH
ions Of a faraway epoch, and when
the weaver and colorist fails. the en-
broiderer steps in. Callot makes XII
monos Of dull perlaine. which is the
soft wooden used instead of duvetyn,
that are pictorial through embroid-
cry; Cheruit splashes wide bands Of
Evening star., 1921-10-09

SEE the newest Partisan fash
ions at the Butterick pattern
counter. Select the styles that
you like best-for the Deltor
simplifies the making Of the
most intricate gowns, suggests
the correct fabrics, and saves
you SOC to $40 because itspeci-
fies less material than would be
possible without the Deltor's
layout chart
Evening star., 1921-10-09
Fabrics and Ornate Sleeves distinguish New Fashions

ing. Callot makes them Of black lace,
but those Of Cheruit are more sedate.
There was lovely lady at Deau-
Vile who appeared with tiny shells
spread over the upturned brim OF
her Russian hat and catching tn the
Onlookers thought 1t was merely =
bit o. Deauville madness. AT a place
where women carry parrots on their
wrists and are followed by little
green Jackets Of organ-grinder days.
where men wear blue velvet XII
monos in to lobbies Of the hotels
on their way to the beach. barely
Disgusting their loin cloths OF green
and yellow. no one attempts to credit
who put on whatever creates a SEN
sation.
But this woman's trick Of wearing
dozens of snail shells was not In
dividual caprice; It was proved Later
house of Lanvin sponsored the idea.
The hats Of this designer are COW
cred with snail shells, and huge
placques Of them are placed on soft
drapery at the hips: You know the
you? There is nothing gross or dis
tasteful about their quality or color.
They are graceful and full Of shim-
mering light after they are polls he'd.
So the hat brim appears to be bro
caded with pearls.
THE hat that Lanvin sponsors is the
exact shape Of the Russian pea
SAINT one. with a round. low crown, a
brim turned up sharply in the front,
curved in a wide scallop at the top
and diminishing to small roll at
merely showing temple locks Of the
hair. The house rarely departs from
this type Of head covering. The alter
nate is the spreading Winterhalter
shape Of colored felt, oh. so softly
colored in mauve or gray. without
plumage. These hats are offered as
suitable companions to the Eugenie
frocks which are called after Winter
halter by both Poiret and Lanvin,
Poiret having made q brilliant picture
'LOasis."
To go back to the shells: they are
interviewer with enough embroidery
to keep them from heaviness and they
for Lanvin uses an astonishing
amount of velvet, not only in head
gear, but In gowns and suits. The
majority Of her street suits are in
black or dark VelVet, the hfp-length
jackets held in tightly to the figure
by a wide band of fur. the ragged
kind that gives somewhat the effect
of fringe at the lower edge. AS she,
like Poiret and Callot, admires the fur
called gazelle, much of it is on these
velvet clothes. Cheruit admires pony,
so does Callot, and this soft shining
fur is on coats and wraps, also turned
into superb cuffs that are quite too
grand for the name, borrowed as they
are from the days Of D'Artagnan and
Charles the Second.
With g. broad hipband of glistening
pony and a peasant hat covered with
Evening star., 1921-10-09

dull silver ribbon. At the lower edge
of this bodice are embroidered eagles
in full flight, wings stretched to their
pointed lengths; this Is done in black
and gray. At the back, where the
straight bodice joins the wide skirt.
there is q fantastic arrangement of
eagle Quills flattened against the
body.
Callot uses this fir green tulle for
evening gowns and touches it with
black moire ribbon. With silver it
is especially lovely for evening and
a grateful change from the blacks
and brocades that have filled the past
Ali the varieties OF silk net and
what Is called "tulle" over here are
strong rivals to valvets and bro
cades, you must realize, because Of
the strength Of the long skirt built
Of several layers Of material sweep
ing over the ankles. 1t is not pos
sible to make Eugene skirts, or their
limitations and notifications, with
velvet or brocade, for their every
movement must be light and fragile.
These fabrics are kept for the ort-
entail and Russian skirts which per-
sist, the latter being especially in
power through the acceptance of the
wide, soft skirt by forceful designers.
MOT that the oriental movement Is
~ in allegiance or yields its place of
Evening star., 1921-10-09
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.
Paris, October 2, 1921.

Paris, OCTOBER q, 1Sz1.
HOIRET urges sleeves to the
- with snail shells are correct,
with snail shells are correct
Cheruit discards underskirts
for evening gowns and replaces them
with straight trousers. Callot says it
when entering the house or to wear
them as bracelets, the Madelines tell
their patrons to extend their cloaks
to the hat in the back. Molyneaux
says that the dignity and decolletage
Of Alexandrian England is best for
draped frocks for evening; Patou,
like Franklin. draws lighting from
are women who say there is nothing
new in clothes in Paris.
Which reminds one Of the Anzac
who was asked to show his wound in
the chest to an American woman.
After she had examined the tiny hole
made by the bullet that had bored its
way through, she said: "Oh, thought
It would be q large. CHASTITY wound"
Good gracious" said the Anzac.
pHow much these American women
expect."
So say the French coutouriers and
their sisters this season.
Those square trousers are stimu-
Eating the imagination of women
Even q sedate Baltimore girl is think
ing Of astonishing her dancing class
by appearing in such costumery. Not
that any one could astonish Baltimore
with east after the social sets to
which It has given birth and the
stories Of social daring which are
part Of its personal history. but these
s'pants," as the youngsters insist upon
calling them, are so subtle that they
cannot even offend.
TD house Of Cheruit. on the Place
IL vendome. which sponsors this in
novation, has long been associated
with ease after the social sets to
much SO as the house Of Worth, yet
the best Frenchwomen go there; and
one finds there things that are ex-
pressive of fine French taste rather
than those brave exploits in fabrics
often done to catch the American dol
lar. or the francs Of those who must
be in the limelight in Paris, or their
occupation is gone.
When this house advocates trou-
sers as substitutes for underskirts of
elk beneath an evening gown of
tulle one feels that the time has
come to regard trousers as a part of
the new equipment of women. We
have been accused throughout the
ages of wearing the pants" Now
Evening star., 1921-10-09

glistening shells, the woman dressed
by Lanvin suggests something me-
dieval, something forceful. far away
from Winterhalter and his prettiness.
Cheruit, also, dips into power when
she deals with a gown that should be
called the American eagle. Its trans
parent tul1e skirt, built from yards of
material in differing lengths. some
touching the floor, Is Of the dull
green Of mountain fir trees. The
bodice, straight as q tree, reaches to
the hips and is Of the fabric pulled
around the body over a supple lining:
the slender shoulder straps are of
Evening star., 1921-10-09
we will make the saying actual as

we will make the saying actual as
well as fgurative.
Cheruit makes no attempt to con-
ceal these straight trousers by using
OPAQUE cloth over them. They are
easily perceptible through outspread-
ing layers Of colored tulle or through
the side openings of brilliant brocade
frocks. The idea behind the fashion
is convenience. for if women will
dance and if they won't wear short
skirts-at least in Paris-then let them
substitute for the knee-length petit
TO the ankles. These trousers are
dark in color, opaque Of fabric. un-
trimmed. They are as wide as the
average underslip which women have
worn for years beneath evening
gowns: they are divided straight from
hens to hips. The women say they
are the best invention yet for dane
Evening star., 1921-10-09

fogs gray hieroglyphics against a
warm beige surface: Jean Patou
streaks vivid flashes of lightning
across the surface Of his velvet
gowns, and no one hesitates to use
the extravagances Of the world for
the ancient girdles. Carved ivory.
even. is used for one girdle, with
small animals as pendants.
Evening star., 1921-10-09

In India tiger meat 10 esteemed as
a food. partly because there is
superstition that 1t imparts to the
eater some of the strength and
cunning that characterized the
animal.
Evening star., 1921-10-09

is probably feeding the pigeons in it.
This gown is old blue silk with
a ceremonial quality in its weave.
its surface covered with tiny war
riors in varied colors fitting lances.
Evening star., 1921-10-09

RTTENOUSE The Fashion Writing From Paris
Takes Up the Newest Ideas From the French DgnersS Of and
GoyFacts About
ter-The Snail Shell
Evening star., 1921-10-09


IN
THE COLOR FRENCH BLUE; THERE
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
$722,OOO BONDS KICKED
ABOUT AS BAGGAGE
Dalton Wanted to HaUe Sus-
picion AUoidcd.

Special Despatch to TIE NEW YonK HERALD.
CHICAGO, May 2.--How satchel con-
tanning s722,oo worth of Liberty bonds
was kicked around in a boarding house
near Joliet was related to-day before
Judge Charles A. Mcdonald when the
case Of William Dalton, charged with
stealing the bonds from the Northern
Trust Company, was resumed. 1t was
Sheriff Ralph STAFFORD of Mclean county
who told of discussing the case with Dali
ton after his arrest.
II thought it would be less suspicious
TO leave it with the other baggage than
to appear concerned about it," Dalton
told the Sheriff.
The State to-day closed its case
against the sixteen-year-old boy who Is
charged with having taken the bonds
from the bank on February "a.
That the temptation to get away with
the bonds had grown since neglected
chance was revealed in a conversation
with Judge Brown in Heyworth.
"Why did you take so much?" the
Judge testified he asked.
That wasn't much" he said Willie re-
piled. II could have taken s2.000,0 600 or
SO, 900, 900 a week before
The New York herald., 1921-05-03

been called TO meet in London to-mor-
row, in which Admiral Beatty. for the
British. and Admiral Grassie. for the
French. will participate The French
Admiral was summoned to London to-
night.
The Preparations Commission VIII
notify Germany within four days of the
sums payable and the conditions Of pay
inent. Germany's reply must be ac-
eeptance without reservations or dis
cussion. IL such affirmative reply is not
received by the evening OF May IL the
occupation will begin without further
notice
The question of guarantees IS a per-
picking one. The council was engaged
for four hours in trying TO harmonize
the views on the precise form OF guaran-
tees. which viii include the establish
ment or a commission OF debt on the
same general lines as the Turkish debt
control. This commission will be
charged with observation of the German
revenues. The Allies will also ask for
participation in the profits OF German
Industry.
NJ. BRAND announced this evening he
must return TO Paris Tuesday night, so
the meeting tomorrow IL expected to be
nnal
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
QUICKLY PUNISHED FOR
HIS PART IN AMBUSH
Patrick Casey Fired at Troops
Sunday; Executed Monday.
BIZ the Associated Press.

DUBLIN. May 2.-Patrick Casey was
executed by firing squad III Mi!chels-
town, County Cork, this evening. less
than twenty-four hours after he had
participated in an attack on Crown
forces Sunday night
During an ambuscade at Bitchels-
town Casey was seen to fire at an
officer who was only forty yardr away.
according to the testimony adduced at
the military court which tried him to-
day. After firing Casey threw down his
rifle and put up his hands. When he
was searched a revolver and q quantity
of ammunition were found In his
pockets. The military court found him
guilty, condemned him to death and he
was shot this evening.
After the firing ceased ar Mitchels-
town two Sim Feiners were found dead
and two wounded. Four others were
made prisoners. one soldier was
wounded.
Two auxiliary policemen were shot
and killed in F'yhora, County Longford.
while they were taking walk.
Seven persons were killed In fights
Sunday with the police and soldiers.
A police patrol which was fired on
from a house in Tipperary returned the
fire. killing two men. One OF them,
James Maloney, Is said to have been
the son OF p. J. Maloney. Sim Fcin
member of the British House Of Com
mons from the South Division OF Tip
perary. Tho other was Sean Duffy.
chairman Of the Tipperary Board OF
Guardians.
One man was shot dead when Crown
| forces surprised band of mrn de-
| stroying a culvert near Lis arroll
County Cork
Two men were shot dead when thAy
tried to escape from a farmhouse near
Limerick Junction. County Tippcrary,
during an exchange of shots WITH po-
! lice
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
GERMANY SEES HOPE
IN KNOX RESOLUTION
Expects 1t VIII Enable Her to
Settle Reparations.
BIZ the Associated Press.

BERLIN, May 2.-Hope exists in Ger
Of the Knox resolution by the United
States Senate will have favorable
effect fer Germany in settling the rep
arations issue and in establishing def
initely Americas immediate interest in
Germany's commercial situation.
An immediate resumption of diplo-
matte and commercial relations or any
concrete advantages pending the out
come of the London conference are con-
fessedly not expected. Just as soon as
the text of the resolution is officially
transmitted the Cabinet will hold a
meeting at which the attitude Germany
is to assume will be considered
VorUaerts. the ma jority Socialist or
gan, In an editorial to-day, says
with the passage Of the Knox reso-
luton the state of war with America,
which 70 us has been much more toler-
able than the state of peace with our
European neiShbors. ends. But tho
peace chimes from Washington are
drowned by the roll of French drums
sounding the call for a fresh invasion
of German soil"
A number of other newspapers. in.
cluding the Liberal Ta0cblatt and Hugo
Shines Ds&tsche AHgemeine Zeitung
are non-comnlittai on the subject of the
resolution. Still other newspapers pub
lish the Washington despatch announc-
ing the action BY the Senate on the
measure without editorial remark
"There is no precedent by which to
judge the situation says the LokGl-
dnse{0cr. "and we have left 1t TO de-
velopments TO decide what the situation
will produce
The New York herald., 1921-05-03

Speciai Despatch to THE NEW York HERALD
New York Herald Bureau.
Washington. ID. G., May 2.
The State Department made public
to-day its final note to Panama rela-
tive TO the boundary dispute between
that country and Costa Rica. 1t is in
effect an ultimatum without a time
limit, calling on the Government OF
Panama to turn over in an orderly
manner the territory awarded TO Costa
Rica by the Loubet and White awards.
The note significantly omits mention
ing the time limit within which this
shall be done. stating that it expects
it to be accomplished ''withir a reason
able time" IT is assumed that the
Government of Panama will act
promptly and will not require any fur
ther reminder by the United States.
The note. which was delivered by the
American Minister to Panama to-day,
is in answer to the voluminous docu-
ment addressed to this Government by
Panama under date of April IL and
delivered here April 81. Panama's
note was a defence OF It's position In
objecting to carrying out the arbitra-
ton awards.
1T is precisely because OF its friend
ship FOR the Republic Of Panama" Sec
retary Hughes says. "as well as because
of its desire to assure itself that the
peace OF Central America IS maintained
on a stable basis guaranteed by the
scrupulous observance OF international
obligations. that the Government OF the
United States feels compelled to state
that II expects the Government of Pan
anna to take steps promptly to transfer
the. exercise OF jurisdiction from the ter
rltory awarded to Costa Rica by the
Loubet award. at present occupied by
the civil authorities of the Government
Of Panama. in an orderly manner to
the Government of Costa Rica. Unless
such steps are taken within reason
able time the Government of the United
States will find itself compelled to pro-
ceed in a manner which may be requisite
in order that 1t may assure itself that
the exercise OF Jurisdiction Is appropri-
ately transferred and that the boundary
line on the Pacific side as defined in the
Loubet award, and on the Atlantic side.
as determined by the award OF the Chief
Justice OF the United States, Is physi-
cally laid down in the manner provided
in articles 2 and 7 of the Porras-An-
derson treaty.
1T Is with the utmost regret that the
Government OF the United States feels
itself obliged TO communicate to the
Government OF Panama this determine
ton. which 1t has reached after the most
IN reftil and friendly delibpration This
decision has been arrived at because Of
the special interest of this Government
In the Republic of Panama and because
OF its belief that only by compliance
with the reasonable expectations OF the
Government of the United States in this
matter can the welfare of Panama be
promoted and its friendly relations TO
the neighboring republic OF Central
America be assured"
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
GERMANY PROTESTS
AGAINST SARRE FORCE
Sends Note to Secretoriat of
League of Nations.

GENEVA. May 2.--The German Gov
ernment has protested through the
Secretariat of the League OF Nations
against the presence Of French troops
in the Sarre region and tie exercise
there Of French military jurisdiction.
The president OF the Sarre Govern
ment Commission has sent NOE TO the
Secretariat explaining that the existing
police force in the Sarre is insufficient
TO insure order and that to bring It up
to the necessary standard II would have
TO be increased to 5000 or 1000 men,
which would prove a heavy burden on
the region. He says the french troops
are not n force OF occupation, but gar
rison placed Mt the disposal CT the COM
mission to enable II to fulfil the duties
imposed on the government BY the
treaty or peace.
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
KNOX RESOLUTION UP
IN HOUSE SATURDAY
Chairman of Committee May
Try to Force Substitute.

Special Despatch TO THE New YORK HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau,
Washington, ID. O., May 2.
The Knox peace resolution passed Sat
urday by the Senate will be taken up
by the House Foreign Relations Commit
tee for consideration Saturday, RepubIi-
can leaders to-day decided.
Indications are that amednments ap-
proved by the Senate will be reported to
the House, although this action may be
taken by close vote. Representative
Porter (Pa), chairman of the commit
tee, will insist on the adoption of his
resolution. which instead OF repeating the
declaration of war as is provided by the
Knox resolution simply declares state
OF peace to exist.
Republican House leaders want the
resolution reported as II passed the SEN
ate. The chance of reporting the Porter
resolution lies in the position the Demo-
Gratis of the committee will take. 1t IS
believed the six minority members, In the
hope of confusing the situation. will sup
port Mr.. Porter.
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
WOULD LEARN MEXICAN
OIL FIELD CONDITION
Legislator Would Protect
United States Supply.
Spccfol Despatch to THE NEW YoRn HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau,
Washington, ID. O., May 2.

Spccidl Despatch to THE NEW YORK HERALD.
New York Herald Bureau,
Washington, ID. O., May 2.
A resolution calling on the Secretary
Of State to inform Congress of the con-
dition OF the Mexican oil fields was in
troduced in the House to-day by Repre-
sentative Porter (Pa.), chairman of the
House Foreign Affairs Committee. 1t
is the result of newspaper dispatches
crediting Federal agents" with state
ments that the Mexican fields are fast
going dry and can last only few years.
1--WE all are necessarily concerned"
said Mr. Porter. "in safeguarding the
nations oil supply. which Is the basis
for many intricate problems involved In
our dealings with other nations. Rumors
are current through newspaper publica-
tions and otherwise that the Mexican
fields are almost extinct and that that
country has been practically drained of
It's crude petroleum and that floods OF
salt water are coming from the wells
instead of OIL"
1T is TO learn whether these rumors
are false or true that l presented a
resolution requesting NE Secretary of
State to furnish to Congress and to the
public any facts proven by investigation
which our Government has made"
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
ULTIMATUM SENT
TO SPUR PANAMA
Secretary Hughes Says
Isthmian Republic Must
Yield to Costa Rica.
TIME LIMIT Is OMITTED
DIR. Porras Is Told LOubet
and White Awards Must
Be Accepted.
TIME LIMIT Is OMITTED
AIN TO MAINTAIN PEACE
If Panama Refuses u. S. Will
Be Compelled to See Terri
tory Transferred.

Speciai Despatch to THE NEW York HERALD
New York Herald Bureau.
The New York herald., 1921-05-03
GERMANY'S VIOLATIONS
CITED IN ULTIMATUM
Preamble FlatIy Says Ruhr
Will Be Occupied.
III fhe Assoclntcd pTess.

LONDON, May 2.--The Supreme Coun-
Gil to-day decided upon the action to be
taken against Germany should she fail
to accept the allied terms. The pream-
BILE OF the ultirnatum viii recite that
Germany having failed to fulfill the
treaty OF Versailles with respect TO rep
arations. disarmament and punishment
Of the war criminals, and having vio-
lated various other articles Of the treaty
which will be cited by number-the
allied Governments have decided to oc-
cupy the Ruhr.
In this event British and Belgian
forces on the Rhine will Join with the
French in their march into the district.
orders for the mobilization OF the 1919
class we're despatched TO Paris tonight
A Joint Anglo French naval council has