The New York herald., 1921-08-14

following the lead In the colors of their
hats than in the color of their frocks.
Always the first crop of hats that ap-
pears in late winter or late summer Is
almost entirely in one color. We can all
remember seasons OF red toques, gray
hats. green hats or black and white hats.
New Shades OF Purple.
This year there is every chance in
favor OF the wide popularity of the hat
that Is purple or purplish red. The
lighter range OF violine and fuchsia has
been played upon for summer hats
There have been countless mauve
organdie hats But mauve and lavender
are not suggestive OF late summer and
autumn.
Be guarded against this proba BILE
vogue for purple and purple-red hats.
n you can afford to have enough hats
so that you need not discard one after
few weeks wearing, II you are so
stationed in life that you need never
fret lest what you have chosen Is also
the choice OF every other woman you
meet go ahead with your purple hat
1t is usually immensely becoming. The
purple and purple-red hues are alike
lattering to blonde and brunette.
tones are legion. Besides fuchsia we
have Corinth purple. Bordeaux. dahlis.
Then there is Ophelia, which is a
purplish pink that has been pushed in
certain quarters IS a color for formal
or evening hats. 1t would certainly
never do for street hats.
II is a rule that some mirliners de-
clare to be infallible, that the color
most in demand for autumn hats at the
very outset OF the season is always the
color that has been popular in suits
and street frocks a season before. The
explanation is that most women when
they buy their first autumn hat buy
II to go with last seasons suit or frock.
They buy hats invariably earlier than
they buy anything else. II Is not until
they buy a second or third hat that
they select It to go with new suits or
frocks.
Whatever you may think OF the
theory. the fact Is that brown has re-
appeared In hats, and brown was, Of
course, the street color Of greatest I'm
portance last spring and winter. How
ever. many of these hats certainly never
were designed for women who have to
think about making last seasons frocks
and suits do for next. nor by milliners
this sort OF good management
II may be that while the rest OF the
world runs riot In fuchsias, Bori eaux
and Corinth purples, certain we'll
dressed and knowing ones viii wear
brown.
Spain has played leading role in
suggesting the lines of the new hats.
True, some designers have gone as free
as possible Of this Spanish tendency.
feeling perhaps that II would become
overpopular. But In a season when
Spanish influence Is ascendant MANY q
hat that did not set out to be Spanish M
all Will be likened to the hat Of some
Spaniard or other
Spanish Lnce Drapery.
The thing that Is most quickly dubbed
as Spanish Is the use of black lace dra-
perry. As child when you learned that
the way to tell Hollander was to look
and see whether he wore wooden shoes.
you also learned that Spanish women
were to be told by their black lace man
tfllas and largo combs To be sure the
draped lace is suggestive rather OF the
milliners droop trims than their high
trims But IL is persisting none the less
Trfcornes were certainly not invented
In Spain. But most Of the tricornes are
dubbed Spanish. And undoubtedly one of
the hirelings OF the bull fight does wear
tricorne. Tho fact is that hats were
first turned up at the side or cooked be-
couse the brims had become too wide 10
be convenient First they were cooked
in one place, then In two and eventually
in three. All these different cockinTs
gave different effects Men used to in
dicate the nature of their politics by the
way In which they cooked their hats.
Usually with the tricorne hat the
points came at either side of the front
and In back. Following the new ten
dency TO make the highest part come d.
rectly In front some of the new tricornes
are put on in different way entirely.
Then there are the hundred and one
hats In which the brims are slashed
somewhere In the front or on the side.
Sometimes a pie-shaped piece Is cut out
OF the brin. Almost always the slashing
or cutting makes room for some lavish
bit of trimming. feathers or a cabuchon
of ribbon.
Meantime Paris seems to have dis
carded none Of her old shapes. She still
clings to her bretons that flare away
from the face on all sides. her cappAtnes,
her cloches. her toques and berets.