Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1921-03-11
Wood Stavc and Other Forms u
Wood SilOa.

~ " 0t0VC 06D4 OAuU HUS00 u
Wood Sil0e.
It is probably true that there are
times as many wood silos in
use, and especially wood stave,-as all
other kinds combined. This is doubt
less largely because wood is one of
the easiest materials to handle. and
is always available. 1t is also q non
Of hest, which Is desirable
In silo material. and there are many
more men who feel competent to
than they would other MAJ
ter1al. N.sl&@.
1t must be admitted however, that
staye silos, as compared with concrete.
tile, brick. or stone, are relatively tenn
porary, their life ranging from FIVE to
fifteen years, depending IN the kind
and quality of lumber used, the con-
and care Of the silo. and the
Citrate.
It is probable that a great deal Of
the trouble with the wood silo is due
properly anchored, and the hoops kept
tight during summer, when they are
empty and driedout. There is also
considerable attention required to
keep them in the best possible shape,
and II they are not carefully gone
over before filling, there is apt to be
spoiled and damaged Rilage around
the outside.
In constructing the wood slo. the
first consideration is the foundation.
It Is certainly unwise to- consider the
building of a wood silo without a
good foundation that will protect the
sible. Where It is possible to do SO.
there is q great advantage in having
at. least six feet of the silo below
ground, and where the soil is suitable
there is no harm in going much deep
~ .
c This can be accomplished by lay
ing out a trench as described in q
previous article on this subject. and
building the foundation much the
same as is done for the pit stlo. In
order to build this foundation above
ground, a foot or SO, 1x4 or 1x4 stakes
may be driven on each side Of the
concrete which has been filled in the
trench, SO that half inch lumber can
be bent around the inside OF these
stakes, and fastened for making the
form. A wood silo foundation should
extend at least a foot above the sur
face of the ground. These stakes
should either be driven level, or sawed
of level with the top of the proposed
This is accomplished by
setting q stake in the center of the
silo. and using a 2x4 and level to de-
termine the exact point to which the
form should be built, and the stakes
driven, or marked and saved, 70 that
they come just to the top OF the
foundation.
After the form ts built and filled
with concrete, a mark should be care
fully made, clear around, In about
the center Of the foundation. This is
board that il fastened in the center
of the Glo, and drawing it around so
as to make a mark for setting the
slaves when the silo is built.
AS the form is being flied with
concrete, eye bolts, should be set in
every six feet. or oftener, would be
better, 81 that slaves in the silo, can
be bolted to the foundation. In some
forms of stave silos these eye bolts are
fastened to a half Inch OR three-quar-
ter inch gas-pipe. that is put entirely
stapled or bolted to this with light U
bolts. This is a precaution hat should
not be neglected. as it very essential
that the bottom of the silo be held
solidly on the foundation.
After the foundation has thorough
~ set, if the precaution were taken
to put it down to solid earth, there is
reason why the pit could not be
dug out on the inside and plastered
up, as is done in digging the pit silo.
This would add very greatly to the
noticed that the silage in the bottom
of the pit is better than it is further
up in the silo. This is largely due to
the fact that it is packed more close
ly. and is less subject to change in
temperature, etc.
Use Good LAmher In Silo.
Cypress, long leaf pine, cedar, red
wood, or any other good lumber may
be used for stave silos. 1t is import
ant hat the lumber be straight, free
from loose knots. sapwood. etc. AS a
general thing the slaves are made of
2xS scantling, although 2x4's are pre-
ferable for silos smaller than IL feet
in diameter. The lumber should be
sized to ever width and thickness, and
it would be preferable to have it
planed on all sides. A great many
makers of stave silos place great
stress On the fact that the slaves are
grooved OF beveled. so as tt make a
perfect fit 1t is found in actual prac-
tice that quite as good results are
~ ny oAhA " 40o SA6S
stave, and they are certainly a great
deal less expensive.
Bug a SiIo, or Build Ono Yourself.
While it b true that as a general
thing the ready made silos will doubt
less give better satisfaction than the
home made, where it would not be
possible to spend the amount of
money necessary to buy the factory
made silos, it might be possible to put
up g. home made one, that would give
satisfactory results. y
There is little question but that all
of the silos on the market give salts
faction, and it is to be hoped that the
makers will be able to sell q lot Of
them,
There are several ways OF building
home. made dlos that have proven
very satisfactory. Where it is possib BILE
to secure lumber so feet long, or over,
and we IRE told that most OF the yards
q get it 30 to SO feet long, If ordered
in time, and that this lumber will
cost in the neighborhood of $500 per
and as it will require only
a little more than 5000 feet for a 16
IT. si(o, 1t will be readily seen that it
should be possible to construct a home
made silo for much less than is asked
by some of the builders.
Building a Stave Silo.
A method frequently used Is to
square up the slaves the same length,
and then bore holes in the edges of
each stave, 4 to 6 feet apart. These
holes should not be in line with holes
in other staves which are being used
adjacent. and the holes should be
bored about 3 inches deep In q 6 inch
Etave, and l inch deep in { finch,
stave. The purpose OF boring these
holes is that when the slaves are Pot
up together . ls or 20 penny spike
can be driven from the hole into the
adjacent stave. 1t is necessary to use