davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1921-11-20
The Milliners' Art

Ill carly autumn there was
l decided preference for.
IN hats. Any discussion n to
-axher small OF large shapes will
u.v.il never seems worth while be-
-. rs any season advances the
,..ana for the large hat is aug
.n.sd. In midwinter rs well as in
-s,sumr,cr the large hat invariably
~.tss It's appearance. Now there is
.,cut an even showing of both types.
No striking changes IN shapes can
. !. recorded. but much that is attcn-
sae arresting appears in colors, ma
sr.ls and trimmings. The pre-
sauinanca Of velvet over hatter's
,lush is m interesting note.
4
nis several seasons since colcred
velvsts havs had such vogue. We
al#ays have had certain number Of
bl.ck velvet hats but blue or red
rcIyet IN headgcar has been an ex-
sption IN recent years.
The new blue, popularized by
Madeleine ct Madeleine, of Paris, has
lad considerable influence on mil
inery. Hats in the lighter shades of
biue velvet, during the last few sea-
sons, have been looked upon as COM
uOnplacs and consequently received
10 showing at the smart establish
msnts.
A Renaissance OF
Bright Hued Velvets
cINCE thosc high in authority in
the hat world have called right
about face, the despised light col
cred velvet hat makes it's appear
ance in the most select circles. Such
revolution cannot fail to please a
certain type of American woman who
always has included in her wardrobe
blue nat because of its becoming
ness. This blue is not the color of
The navy uniform, but that Of the
Frenchnan's army coat.
Colored facings on black hats also
are a welcome departure. These in
novations aid in solving the much
discussed question as to whether a
woman shall be smartly or appeal
ingly dressed. They make q happy
compromise between the two.
There is a vogue for trimming
black hats with colored ribbons-a
revival Of a very old-time fashion.
The Paris milliners who make hats
to the order of each customer are
linking the color of the gown with
the hat trimming. Bows Of bright
colored ribbon frequently appear on
black hats A large shape may have
the bows beneath the brim at either
side. The loops are somewhat long
and the ends even longer.
Gay Colored Ribbons
Enliven Black Hats
TIE fashion for colored ribbons
on black hats is enthusiastically
received in this country it viii mean
many made-to-order hats which will
insure more becoming millinery than
~ have had recently.
In this country the milliner has
shown her hats, the customer tried
1em On, and If she found ono that
Sas satisfactory she either bought it
u ordered ono like 1t. But the
french millincr and her client have
Roeeeded along an entirely differ
snt line. So cxacting were the Gus
~ners and SO painstaking the hat
maker IN creating individual styles
nat she practically made each hat
% her customers head.
40 insure . perfectly becoming
contour, to arrive at just the most
0ecoming angle, to add to or lower
ae height Of crown or breadth of
New-York tribune., 1921-11-20
Almost Every Bird
Helps to Make the Fan

SWEEPING one-side effects are
seen in feathered models, and the
plumage Of almost every bird is
represented. Black vulture feathers
are often attached to an Egyptian
handle while a carved galilith stick
frequently supports the graceful tail
feathers Of Monsieur lie coque. Os-
trich and pheasant in dyed and na-
tural colorings are used both singly
and ensemble. In the smaller fans
goose feathers have made their ap-
pearance.
Several Of the foremost couturiers
Of Paris are showing novelty fans of
coque feathers in delightful shades
Of fuchsia, cerise, jade green and
dove gray. These are mounted on
two straight sticks Of tortoise shell.
The coque feathers are large and
rather straight with only slighe
curl at the tip. They are mounted
at the sides of the shell stick so
that they project at different angles,
thus giving very wild and dishev-
eled appearance while making a
fashionable and most unusual fan
A fan that either matches or har-
monizes with the gown is smart. At
a recent showing Of French clothes
one Of tho mannequins wore an
Agnes costume exemplifying this
tendency. The gown had q bodice
Of fuchsia taffeta and full skirt az
silver lace ornamented with stream
ers Of Natter blue ribbon. With ii
she carried fan, also of silver lace.
the handle supporting streamers Of
the blue ribbon scattered with roses
budA
New-York tribune., 1921-11-20
France Contributes
Many Cay Shawls

CHENILLE has found considerable
favor with millinery designers
and Is used with good effect in the
Oriental turban2 thick strands of
the chenille being loosely braided
and wound about turban shape.
Uneven ends Of chenille may fall
from one side to make trimming.
Cired ribbons are not new but still
used. There is, however. = new
conner Ia the eir& family, Il n . Ex1
New-York tribune., 1921-11-20
Bizarre Mode In
Single Earring Effects

WEARING an earring IN one ear
cnly-the ieft-is a fancy Of
the moment. This mode is IN keep
ing with similar fashion in dress
the one-side effect-which stresses
the idea that two sides Of costume
need not be Identical as to length,
drapery or ornamentation.
There is a question as to whether
anything Of art or beauty is added
to costume by wearing one earring.
The answer Is, try it and decide for
yourself. There is no more reason
for wearing pair of earrings than
for wearing pair Of finger rings.
Most noteworthy among earrings
are the drop effects. Sometimes
these consist Of delicate chain sup
porting a single jewel while in other
instances they comprise several
chains strung with small stones.
Again they may be in the form Of q
large pendant or tassel made Of dull
filigree silver and devoid Of stones.
The Spanish theme which has in
vaded the realms Of millinery and
dressmaking is felt to an even
greater extent in fans. Many of
these are of black Chantilly lace or
black net and they occasionally feat
ure white embroidery. Lace motifi
frequently are used in conjunction
with spangles and sequins.
New-York tribune., 1921-11-20

able as ever, and that many in
teresting things still are being done
to feathers to produce wierd and
unusual effects.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
YOUTHS CONFESS TO
MARION STORE THEFT

MARION, Aug. 22-Lewis A. NAL
land and Raymond Floyd local
youths. 10 years of age. confessed
10 Sheriff Bert Fowler Monday to
the robbery Of the Hurstland AMI
company general store Thursday
morning, Aug. II, taking 81, 400 II
checks and currency from the store
safe. which they allege in their
confession. was unlocked
The boys were on their way home
from Sunday school when they conf
mitted the theft Finding Of a num-
Der Of checks strewn in an alley
near the scene Of the robbery led
TO the arrest Of the boys. Part o.
the checks were found in a sewer
under a bridge. The currency has
not been found
Questioning Of the prisoners will
be resumed tomorrow. Sadie Mil
Ter and Vern Miller. parents OF Ray
mond and Floyd, are held as wit
nesses. They will be questioned
closely.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
BLAMES WEATHER FOR
ACTIONS OF AIRSHIP

WASHINGTON. Aug. 22.-DeIays
In the trial fight OF the dlrigibIe
ZR-2. which has been purchased by
the navy from Great Britain and
which is 20 make a transatlantic
flight, are due 20 weather conditions
and not 20 faulty construction OF the
ship. the bureau OF aeronautics OF
the navy department announced
Monday.
Naval officers stated they had no
confirmation OF reports from Eng
land that damage done 20 the craft
had disabled Il.
They admitted that some OF the
Orders OF the ship had been report
ed 20 have buckied. but that this Is
a common fault OF all dirigr0les and
cannot be held 70 have disabled the
ship
Reluctance 20 take the untried
ship out In unfavorable weather Is
responsible for the present delays
Il was stated, but Il Is the hope Of
officials here that the ship will have
met all tests satisfactorily within a
short time.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
WANT OIL QUESTION
SETTLED AMICABLY

WASHINGTON. Aug. Z2-Ameri-
can oil company officials who plan
70 go 10 Mexico City 90 confer with
Mexican government officials on The
petroleum question have been IN
formed by the state department tha-
the American government would be
graufed II the question OF the re-
Gently imposed tax on OIL could be
settled amicaoly by The two parries
20 the controversy.
The attitude OF the department Is
understood % have been set forth
several days ago 90 representatlves
Of some OF the American OIL COM
panies who communicated % the
department a decision 90 confer d.
rectly with Mexican officials with a
view 20 reduction in the recently irn-
posed petroleum export tax. Other
An erican companies operating
properties in Mexico have not adj
hered 70 the decision 20 conduct d.
rect negotiations. 90 was learned.
suggesting that such a matter %
left 10 the state department.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
TURKISH NATIONALISTS
SUFFER DEFEAT. REPORT

LONDON. Aug 22.-Turkish ma
tionalist forces. retreating before the
Greek army along the Sakaria river.
have suffered a severe defeat, ac-
cording 10 dispatches from Smyrna
Monday.
The Turkish right wing was al
most annihilated by Greek troops.
which forced the crossing Of the
river and took 5000 prisoners. Strong
nationalist achievements are re-
ported by Constanunople 10 be con-
centrating east OF the Sakaria.
Reports from Constantinople con-
tradict the Smyrna reports Of victory
and say that Turkish arms have ev-
erywhere been successful.
The Greek general STAFF has i'm
posed a rigid censorship on dispatch
es relating 20 military operation.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
MAYOR CARSON AND
CONTROLLER SLASH
1922 CITY BUDGET
Council to Consider Recon-
mendatiOns at Hearing on
September E.

There will be no Increase in taxa
ton here. if the council finally ap-
proves the tax list as presented TO
that body last night. at the public
hearing for circumstances the night
after labor day, Tuesday, September
6. Mayor Carson and city control
Tor Swygart after using the pruning
knife on practically every sugges-
ed budget finally succeeded in bring
ing the final total down 10 S0.75 on
every 500 worth Of taxable prop
erty.
The council, according to the
statement made by City Atty Slick
must permit a public hearing on
the question of taxation before they
can finally adopt any specific figures
for raising funds for operating the
city government next year.
In the new budget, after 1t had
met the approval Of. Carson and
Swygart. the police department sug
gestion for funds for new apparatus
had been practically eliminated and
$1,000 had been allowed them or
their miscellaneous fund. While
there is little possibility for the fire
department to get the new equip
ment which they suggested was SO
urgent, they were allowed $4,000
additional.
Based on the assessed taxation val
uatiOn Of $133,012.420 the proposed
levy OF IS cents will yield the fol-
lowing amounts: For general fund,
$75S,170; for park fund. S7,SO7; for
police pension fund, $3.50; for fire
mems pension fund. $3.50: for rec
reation fund. $3.50; for track sep
aration fund, $3.50; for hospital
fund. S26,6O2; for sinking fund.
$35,S15; for lighting fund, S66,5O6
Total, S997,5SS.
Funds for the various departments
are listed on the proposed tax list as
follows: Finance department, SS5,-
942. 80, including salaries; depart
ment Of public works. $4,000; de-
partment Of public safety. s3S6.83O:
department Of public health and
charities. 800. The general fund
receipts reach a total Of S784.s15.
City Controller John A. Swygart
and Mayor Franklin r. Carson went
into executive session Monday morn
ing and welded their executive
knives on the budgets Of the varl-
Ous boards and departments Of the
city government Into the maze Of
figures as furnished the controller
Continued or page two)
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
GOMPERS RAPS
OFFICIALS FOR
WAGE DECLINE
Labor Leader Declares Unem
ployment Situation is an
Economic Crime"
WARNS FACTORY HEADS
Says Present Depression Viii
Prove a Boomerang to
Business Interests.

ATLANTIC CITY, y. J., Aug. 22.-
The present unemployment situation
is an economic crime that is re-
sulting in a loss of S27,5OO,000 a day
IN wages TO the workers Of the coun-
try. Pres't Samuel Gompers declared
Monday night following a session OF
the executive council Of the American
Federation Of Labor. at which pres
ent unemployment conditions were
discussed.
Wage reductions will not relieve
the situation, the veteran labor chief
said. adding that such action Will
further curtail our domestic pur-
chasing power, and more factories
will close because the people haven't
the money to buy their products.
THE present depression" he add
ed. will become even more acute
and the reductions, If they can be
forced upon us, will not only prove
a boomerang TO the employer but a
menace to our economic, financial
and political status.
Bring Pressure.
"In all this talk about readJust-
ment and reconstruction, why IS IL
that the pressure is always brought
10 bear upon those whose standards
Of life and every day existence would
be demoralized and defeated by re-
duction in wages. and why this drive
to reduce their wages first. The rank
and file cannot understand how re-
adjustment and reconstruction can
mean only reduction Of their wages.
"I have been asked who among
the capitalists has suggested a reduc-
ton in the rate Of interest on a loan
or a reduction of profits, or even a
simultaneous reduction of wages and
profits.
"The cos. Of living has not come
down. Instead, with profiteerine
unchecked and unrestrained, IL IS
going up, especially rents. Ninety
per cent. of the homes in the U. >
we're built before the war. but the
exhorbitant rents gouged out Of the
tenants by the profiteering and un-
scrupulous land lords is blamed on
..o..o..-4-~~~-~-J-~~
CONTINUED on page twO)
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
.SHRINERS PLAN TO
PETITION CHARTER
Local Members to Take Step
Soon-Arrange to Visit Fl.
Wayne Club Friday.

Arrangements for a trip to Fort
Wayne for South Bend and NIisha-
waka Shrine members were complet-
ed at an informal smoker held by
the Thelma Shrine club of South
Bend at the Oliver hotel last night.
About 900 members from the two
cities will go 10 Fort Wayne by spe-
cial train Friday, where they will be
the guests of the Mizpah Shrine club
of Fort Wayne, it was announced.
Members Of the Shrine from South
Bend and Mishawaka will meet at
the Oliver hotel Friday morning at
$3.50 o'clock and will march to the
Vandalia depot TO the special train
which leaves at 9 O'Clock.
Announcements read at the smoker
last night stated that the local
Shriners would be guests of the AIiz-
pah Shrine club of Fort Wayne for
the entire day Friday and that all
arrangements had been completed at
Fort Wayne for the occasion. The
Fort Wayne club is sending a special
train for the Shriners here and have
arranged a ceremonial at the Elks
club in that city. The announcements
stated that a barbecue would be part
Of the days program.
II was stated at the smoker last
night that preparations are being
made for obtaining charter for the
South Bend Shrine. Plans for the
charter will be announced later. it
was stated. and hopes are being held
for obtaining the charter during the
near future.
About 175 members of the Thelma
Shrine were in attendance at the
smoker.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
FARMERSBURG MOB
THREATENS NEGRO
Sheriff Forced to Remove
Prisoners From Sullivan
to Vincennes Jail.

FARMERSBURG. Aug. %. - In
dignation that developed until it
gave evidence Of the formation Of a
mob caused four negroes held in the
Jail at Sullivan u miles south OF
here. on a charge Of criminal as
sault on three women near here Sun
day night 10 be removed from the
colnty jail az o'clock Monday aft
ernoon. Crowds Of indignant men
assent led near the homes Of the
women assaulted and also went 10
Sullivan Monday afternoon in a
threatening need
The three negroes. shackled to-
gether. were loaded into an auto
mobile in an alley az the rear OF the
Jail, and were driven 10 Nincennes
for safekeeping They were IN
charge OF Deputy Sheriff Edgar Col
Tins, Special Deputy James TT. VIII
,-liams. and Hugh Giles. the driver OF
the machine
Bridge Gang.
The negroes were members OF a
bridge construction gang az work on
tie Dixie Bee lire near here. and
were employed by David Jackson. a
contractor Of Terre Haute They are
Martin Harris %. OF clinton. Miss. :
willis Blow. -. Jackson. Tenn:
------->--------.-I---->--- >-------
Continued on page two)
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
ATTACKS POLICIES
OF RESERVE BOARD
John S. Wanamaker Appears
Before Congressional Agri.
cultural Committee.
By Associated Press :

WASHINGTON. Aug. "a Fed
eral reserve board policies increas-
ing with price and currency defla-
ton are cynical. cruel and inexcus-
able" and constitute financial tyr
amy and commercial eriminality,"
j. S. Wanamaker. president of the
American Cotton association, charg-
ed, Monday before a joint congress
sional agricultural committee. The
boards methods, he added, are
"heaping ur gold in the United
States at the expense of all civil!za-
ton"
Speaking, he said, for the agri-
cultural producers, the witness as
serted, the federal board and banks
were responsible for the general
price decline. The boards pressure
still was being exerted upon bank
ers who are afraid of their shadows.
who may find all their loans called
by the reserve banks any minute,
and dare no disobey its orders" rs
cording to Mr.. Wanamaker. who
asked the commission to recommenl
legislation for general revision OF
the reserve board personnel.
Proposes Plan.
He proposed that the principal
become composed Of % members
nominated from the various dis
tricts as representatives of industry
instead Of banking. and appointed
by the president and confirmed by
the senate. Further he suggested
that the commission recommended
the instant reduction in federal re-
serve re-discount rates TO a basis Of
three and one-half percent on Lib
erty loan collateral
THE federal reserve banking sys-
TEN, created to serve the people. by
its administration has made the peo-
pie servants Of the system he as
serted. cts policy will require the
American people TO pay with de-
flated dollars a national debt Dor
rowed in inflated dollars"
Price declines that have been
effected lately, he declared, will rot
help consumers. because they have
left nothing for agricultural prodUc-
ers 10 do but combine and reduce
production so low in the future that
priceG Will give us some margin OF
profit and let US pay our debts"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
STATUS OF MOROCCO
RAISED BY ACTIONS

WASHINGTON. Aug. % Re
cruiting by Spanish officials in New
York for Moroccan service. IL was
pointed out Monday night raises the
question Of the status Of Morocco
already complicated by several trea-
ties dating from the Algeciras con-
ference OF a decade ago and by
Spanish and claims. Moreover. t.
raises the question, il was said. OF
whether the Spanish armed expedi-
ton is 20 be sent merely against
rebels in the Spanish sphere or fur
Their against the sultan himself.
Reports OF the recruiting were re.
ceived with interest by officials here
Monday night. but no indications was
given OF the attitude the American
government Will take toward t.
Recruiting by a friendly foreign
power here for military service
against another friendly power Is
expressly prohibited by law. and dur
ing the world war. before the United
States was a belligerent never was
allowed 10 do IL by any OF the al
lied or teutonic powers.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
LOWER HOUSE
PASSES RAIL
FUNDING BILL
Senate Plans to Take Action
on Measure Before Sum-
mer Recess Begins.
AMENDMENT DEFEATED
Congressman Debate Measure
for Four Hours Before
Decision is Made.
By Associated Press :

By Associated Press:
WASHINGTON, Aug. p. The
administration railroad funding
bill was passed Monday night by the
house. The measure now goes TO the
senate.
The vote was PA TO 125. 1t is not
the present intention Of the senate
10 take up the bill before the recess.
An unsuccessful effort was made
10 eliminate a section which pro-
vides that no payments shall be
made by the government to any car
riers ION account Of the sO-called in
efficiency Of labor" during federal
control. An amendment to strike
out this provision, offered by Rep.
Webster, Wash, a republican mem
Der of the commerce committee,
which had favorably reported tho
bill was rejected, las 10 Il.
Retain Provision.
Another provisions of the section
which Mr. Webster failed to have
stricken out stipulated that no funds
shall be used in making settlements
with carriers which do not forever
bar such carriers from settling up
any further claim. right or demands
of any kind. or character against the
United States growing out Of, or
connected with the possession, USE
or operation of such carriers prop
erty by the United States during the
period of federal control"
During four hours of general de-
bate. three members OF the COM
merce committee-Reps. Rayburn.
Texas. Johnson, Mississippi. and
Huddleston. Alabama, all democrats
expressed opposition to the bill.
Mr. Rayburn, however, urged reten-
ton of the section which Mr.. Web
ster urged eliminating.
Repudiate Contract.
Contending the government was
bound by the previous legislation 10
recognize claims growing out Of Ia
Dor inefficiency," Mr.. Webster said
passage Of the bill was an outstand-
ing Of the clause TO which he said
would be "a monstrous Reputation
CONTINUED on page two)
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
ALLEGED MURDERER
PETITIONS COURT

REDWOOD CITY. Calf. Aug. %.
"A petition for a writ Of habeas
corpus for William a. HightOwer,
held here on a charge of murder in
connection with the death OF Rev
Father Patrick E. Heslin. a Catholic
priest, was received Monday by Su-
perior Judge G. H. Buck, from Will
lam F. Perron, a San Francisco at
torney. Judge Buck said he expect
ed 20 decide Tuesday whether the
writ would be granted.
Heron said he was not employed
by Hightower but san Francisco
men who expressed the belief that
the prisoner had not been fairly
treated.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
HIERARCY WILL ACT
IN PEACE PARLEYS

DUBLIN. Aug. 22-The Her
archy." as the Roman Catholic
Church is known In Ireland. has in
tervened in the Irish peace negotia-
lions. TIE most Rev. Edward Null
hern, Lord Bishop OF Dromore.
came 10 Dublin Monday night with
a message from the highest author
ity" which he delivered 20 Eamonn
DeVaIera and other sim Fein lead
ers. There were Ions conversati tons
over the message
Asked whether the mesa &c came
from "the Cardinal" meaning Car
dlnal Logue. the primate OF Ireland.
"a priest who accompanied Mons.g-
nor Mulhern. replied in the mega
tive. This was conS dered in some
circles here as possibly meaning
that Rome had interviewed.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
PANAMA PEOPLE WILL
FORGET OLD DISPUTE

BALBOA. Aug. 22.-The people OF
Panama Monday were inclined TO
forget their dispute with Costa Rica
over the territory Of Coto. claimed
by both countries. following receipt
OF the American note insisting that
Costa Rica should be permitted 10
occupy the area.
The Panaman government, after
receiving the note. sent request for
further information on the points in
volved.
The Star-Herald editorially advis-
ed acceptance Of the verdict. ssyin &
It was inevitable. and declaring the
United States 20 be a friend OF
Panama.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-08-23
RAIL MEN APPROVE
ACTIONS OF BOARD

PHILADELPHIA. Aug. 22-The
representatives Of more than 10000
employees OF the Pennsylvania rail-
road. at a meeting late Monday with
the management expressed unani-
nous approval OF emIloye elections
recently declared void by the L. :.
labor board.
At the conclusion Of the meeting,
General F. Waterbury. vice-presi-
dent in charge OF operation ex-
pressed a hope that a satisfactory
agreement would soon be reached
with System Federation No. 90.
whose protests against the elections
caused the labor boards edict.