Evening star., 1921-06-05

which they were worn was in brill
liant colors- A red and white foulard
gown carried a black silk coat lined
with foulard. It was slashed at each
side and had wide reTers that ran to
the waist. both showing wide ex-
panses of foufard. 1t was striking
fact that the short wrap was an ac-
cessory to the costume; the long wrap
was a part Of it.
With the races as a setting, the best
of the French designers exploited the
very full skirt Paquin sent a. manne-
gown that was an exact reproduction
Of a leading fashion in the winter of
1914. It's wide skirt swept the ankles.
1t was built with ten ruff1es of blue
taffeta edged with white. The tight
bodice was wrinkled about a small
finished with a turnover collar Of the
fabric. With 1T was worn a high bon
net Of blue straw with small white
brim and two long streamers of blue
and white ribbon that fell to the hem
of the skirt Paquin's mannequin
Of the gown and it, too, was covered
with many ruffles.
There were other wide skirts worn
which did not stand out from the
figure. Their hens were four and six
yards wide, but as the material was
feet There were closely plated skirts
in soft fabrics that had actual fullness
which adjusted itself to slim lines.
Other skirts had a narrow foundation
with a half dozen floating panels
dropping from the waist
The eyes of the watchers were
focused on sleeves as much as ON
skirts. for they knew that the women
at tho races would give impetus to
whatever fashion was to be raised to
power.
The observers saw that the majority
Of arms were entirely covered. There
might be a transparent sleeve. square
in shape and dropping to the wrist,
such as Jenny SPONSORS. or there
might be q long tight fitting sleeve
shaped out over the knuckles. But the
sensation Of the races was the long
swinging sleeve that eclipsed the
hand.
When the first mannequin appeared
in this sleeve one felt that something
had gone amiss with her costume
The second and third one proved the
eccentricfty to be a fashion. This
sleeve was taken from medieval days
and it was borrowed then from the
Chinese. 1t is quite ornamental. It
hangs to the knees. There is no evi-
dence that the wearer has hands. She
might as well be an armless Venus
THE artist who sketches for this
paper went to Paris to see the
fashions exploited by the races and
she comes to the conclusion that the
dressmakefs and the smart set in
France are following quickly on the
heels Of the fashions exhibited at
Longcamps.
She says that all Paris is trying out
the clothes that will be offered to the
American buyers the end of next
month. Therefore, it is wise for US to
take cognizance Of them in order that
we may have the vision of a prophet.
The full skirt Is getting its best
representation IN evening clothes, but
dressmalers are trying 1t out. In all
manner of afternoon frocks in less
exaggerated form. Women do not
object to fuH skirts II they arc not
6tstended, and they SEQ in such cling
ing fabrics as lace, thin crepe, and
chiffon a chance to follow a new fash
ion without being conspicuous or un-
comfortable.
The slight bodice with its darts is
a fashion Of another day which 10 Of
fered in afternoon frocks and ig-
| nored for street costume. The dress.
makers have no hesitancy in putting
!, a bodice Of one color shove skirt