davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Those who like white wash muslin adopt
it. Those who prefer silk Jersey, Geor-
/ gette, crepe de chine overblouses, wear
them.
| The neck line Is severe. The collar of
the blouse does not come over the collar
of the coat The latter carries Its own
collar IL the wearer feels that her neck
has not sufficient youth to stand the line
of cloth against it. Organdy and mus
lin collars are offered by the hundreds.
but the fastidious woman chooses tea
tinted English eyelet muslin. A narrow.
well fitted collar of this is put over the
coat collar. Thus equipped, the blouse
can be what it will.
Bathing Suit Frocks Are Retained.
The one piece frock for the street is
not ousted by the tailored suit. Its
supremacy has been challenged, but II
holds a strong place In the wardrobe.
The acceptance Of the severe coat and
skirt. however. has repressed ornamen-
tation on street frocks- They are mod
elled much after the bathing suit with
an important change In the sleeves. The
wrist length sleeve Is not always ac-
cepted, but the bathing suit sleeve is
eliminated. The transparent sleeve is
not worn in the street by women who
dress in good taste.
The accepted gown is OF Opaque crepe
Any weave will do Any color will serve,
even henna and fog gray. The bright
colors which are considered correct for
coat suits have brought about an equal
freedom of choice In colors for one piece
frocks. They are often made of the ma
terials used for Jackets
The string girdle has given way to
narrow. ornamental belt. 1t Is placed
at the hip line and does not confine
whatever fulness there is In the frock
merely breaks the line. The broad
colored sash which threatened to over
whelm the continent in February was
quickly restricted to afternoon and even
ing gowns. Women who wear II on
street frocks are doing the wrong thing.
1t is well to bear in mind that the
strength Of the fashionable effort to
simplify and deaden street clothes has
gained power. no woman should defy it.
To appear in transparent crepe, half COW
cred with fringe. girdled with an ornate
sash, showing gray stockings and suede
slippers is to err in good taste.
Wide fur pieces continue in good fash
ion for the street The broad scarf is
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

size that shades the eyes, without gilt
tering ornament and garlanded with
flowers or bows of dark ribbon, Is a
woman who shows a good conception of
being we'll dressed.
BriIIiancy in Afternoon Frocks.
There is a sharp distinction between
the clothes worn for business purposes,
for shopping, for the hours that are
taken up with purposeful activities, and
the clothes worn for pleasure. The
woman who observes this distinction
saves herself anxiety and self-conscious-
ness.
If she does not indulge in any kind
of social life during the day she can
eliminate afternoon frocks. There is
a large class of Americans, however.
who make what is known as an after
noon frock serve for the evening. Their
lives are so simplified that they can
Go this with good results.
1t is In such ornate gowns that the
dressmakers find a chance to use inge-
nuity and to achieve brilliancy. Trans
parent materials can be adopted. Bead
ing, colored applications Of cloth. striped
taffeta, patterned silks. strongly printed
foulards come into full play just here.
In these frocks the skirts are longer
| than those for the street, even though
the length is achieved through the over
drapery. The full skirt is chosen as often
as the narrow one Lace flounces are ac-
cepted.
There is no attempt to make high
necklne unless the fabric is trans
parent and Is used across the shoulders
and over the arms The sleeves often
reach to the knuckles. There is wide
diversity in them. Some start with a
short, tight band at the shoulder and
stream downward to the wrists in slen-
der sections which open and show the
bare arm. Others are made of ribbon
dropping in loose ends over a short
sleeve of chiffon or silk net. No matter
what they do between the shoulder and
the wrist they are caught tightly at
both these places.
No restriction is placed uDon lace
for these afternoon frocks. All colors
are used, even capucine red. Dyed lace
! Is the fashion of the hour. There Is a
strong Spanish influence shown in its
drapery. In fact, drapery Is too broad
word to use fiounces are preferred to
any other manipulation of the material.
Whether they are full or slim is decided
| by the wearer.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Above on Left-Evening gown of
black satin and lace, which owes
its inspiration to Spain. The how-
cred skirt and the long wrap bodice
are widely accepted.
Second-Directoire gown of
striped blue and white cloth with
white vest. The long sleeves show
the stripes on the bias. The waist
coat extends below the waistline and
there is an ornamental fob worn at
the side.
Third-Straight line frock of
copper colored cloth with slightly
full skirt showing lining of plaid
silk. The bodice buttons straight
up the front and ends in a high
collar.
Below-Afternoon frock of beige
cloth embroidered in bright red and
combined with brown satin. The
long open sleeves represent one of
the new fashions.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

the Rev. DR.. and Mrs. James NJ. Farr Of
this city and Wilkesbarre, Pa. Miss
Farr. who has spent some time abroad.
is sister of Miss Jocelyn F'arr. and Of
Mr.. James NJ. Farr. Jr
Mr.. and Mrs. Donald Mcdonald of
276 Riverside Drive have announced the
engagement OF their daughter Miss Mar
garet Mcdonald, to Mr.. Charles Prescott
Stewart son of Mr.. and Mrs. Charles N.
Stewart of Worcester, Mass. Miss Nc
Donald was graduated from the Bennett
School at Mlbrook, N. Y, and her fiance
from Harvard with the class of II. He
served overseas as an Ensign with the
Naval Aviation section.
Mr. and Mrs. Joseph n. Courtade OF
SO East Ninety-hrst street have made
, formal announcement OF the engagement
ade. to Mr.. Leo II. LarSin OF Grarhercy
Park.
Announcement has been made by Mr..
Nathaniel J. Sloane Of the engagement
of his sister, Miss Carrie Sloane OF 100
Riverside Drive, to Mr.. Arthur J. Flor
man OF Cleveland, Ohio. and Johnstown,
Pa.
MT. anu MIS. JOiTl bDlbIu Oh llb
Hotel st. Andrew have announced the
engagement OF their daughter, Miss
Matte Lillian Boland, 10 Mr.. John Jo-
seph Fleming Of this city.
The marriage Of Miss Helen Edith
Benneche, daughter Of Mr. Edward BEN
neche, Jr.. OF 15 West Eighty-elghth
street. to Mr.. Hans A. Riedel, son OF
Mr. and Mrs. II. j. Rledel will take
place on June at the Hotel Gotham.
| Miss Elsa Carolyn Thorsch, daughter
Of Mr. and Mrs. Victor Thorsch Of 224
West 103d street, will be married TO DR..
r.. Benno Bernheimer OF Chicago on
wednesday at the Gotham. Miss
Thorsch will be attended by her mother
as matron OF honor. She will have two
/ bridesmaids Miss Elsa Beck OF Chicago
and Miss Pauline Bernheimer, sister of
/ the bridegroom.
Mr.. u. Jacques Thorsch, brother Of
the bride, will be the best man. The
ushers viii be another brother, Mr..
Richard =. Thorsch. Messrs. Ralph AL
schuler, Edwin Goodman and Ralph Folz
NJ. and Mrs. Nathan Brody of I'll
West End avenue gave reception on
Thursday evening at the Ritz-Carlton
for their daughter Miss Helen J.. Brody,
whose engagement 70 Mr.. Milton y. Kolb
was announced recently
Mr. and Mrs Paul DAILY have re-
| tt,YpaJ fr1Y,, tbgfr tpo1Tfru f@fn of,ova4 Ia
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

considered better than the small animal.
Fur attached to the coat is not In
fashion.
The woman who finishes off a good
street costume with black patent leather
or brown pumps and hat of moderate
The New York herald., 1921-05-29
Mems of Hotels
and Restaurants

After nearly two years absence the
name Martinique again will appear In
the list of New York hotels, the original
house of that name built by Henry ].
Herdenbergh. architect of the Waldorf
Astoria, which was acquired by l.. M.
Boomer in October, 1919. having become
the Annex. But now Frank +. Jago.
the resident manager has decided 70 re-
vive the name Martinique and II returns
to the electric signs and stationery.
A million dollars has been spent in re-
furnishing the hotel.
The new Pavilion Royal at Lynbrook
from Broadway, and It's parent, the
Palais Royal, presented to New Yorkers
and its summer visitors last Friday
evening the final word" in perfectly
equipped summer dancing-dining places.
Paul Whitman end his orchestra will,
provide the concert and dance music.
The Hotel Bossert Brooklyn, opened
its Marine Roof last night. From this
open air restaurant the diner obtains a
view of the entire New York bay.
The Cascades, atop the Biltmore. win
open for dinner June /. Decorators also
have been at work for several weeks
Transforming tho ballroom on tho nine
teenth floor into a dining place. The
mountain room, also on the nineteenth
floor, will open June 1 for luncheon.
The roof garden season begins at the
Waldorf Astoria on June l. Joseph
Knecht and his orchestra again will be
heard during dinner and for dancing
This summer there Will 5e dancing con-
tinuously from O'clock until closing.
At tho Hof Brau Haus, tho old land
mark In Broadway at Thrtleth street
Won ShlllaRh'e Monte Carlo orchestra
plays for the dancing.
The Old Town Tavern in the Bush
4 Building In West Forty-sacond street
heretofore known as the Bush Restau-
rant, reopened this week under the man
agement OF Joseph Grady.
A cool French dining place is the
Petitiean al 35i West Fifty-seventh
street
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

No date has been set for the wedding
Of Miss Anne Farr, TO Mn Grier Bartol
Of Philadelphia and South Washington
square. this city Their engagement
was announced last week by her parents,
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Mr.. ana Mrs John Lewis Hay OF
Newark, n. j.. and Rumson road have
announced the engagement OF their
daughter. Miss Virginia Hay. TO Mr.. Ed
ward Horsman Van Siclen, a son Of
Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Van Siclen Of this
city. MIR Van Siclen Is a grandson OF
the late George W. Van Siclen. founder
or the Holland Society and a noted law
ser Of his day. and also OF Edward !.
Horsman.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Mr. and Mrs. Paul DAILY have re-
turned from their wedding tip spent In
Europe and now are in their apartment
81 East Flfty-fifth street Mrs Daily
was Miss Madeleine Mulqueen. daughter
Of Mr.. and Mrs Michael J. Mulqueen
Her wedding took place In December.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Mrs u. a. Schroeder Of i72 East Sixty
fourth street has announced the en-
gagement OF her daughter BY former
marriage Miss Catherine Dixie, 10 Mr.
Robert Leighton Crawford. 30, son Of
Mr and Mrs. Robert l.. Crawford, Jr,
of New York and White Plains. Miss
Okic is n granddaughter OF Or william
Thompson Okic or Philadelphia. who
was active in war work Mr. Crawford
served overseas as Captain In tho
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Announcement has been made or the
engagement OF Miss Ruth L. Parhtt.
second daughter Of Mr.. John r. Parftt
of Holyoke, Mass. to Mr.. Frank r..
Parish. son of the late John T. Parish
of this city. The wedding will take place
some time IN June. Mr.. Parish, who
now IS engaged ia the real estate busl-
ness. served abroad with the Fifth
Division.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

The Old Town Tavern in the Bush
Building In West Forty-second street.
heretofore known as the Bush Restau-
rant, reopened this week under the man
agement OF Joseph Grady.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

The Rev. DR.. and Mrs. William L.
Dawson Of Brooklyn have made formal
announcement or the engagement of
their daughter Miss Edna Dawson, 70
MIR. Howard Osterhout Of this city and
Freeport l.. I. Miss Dawson Is a grad
uate Of the Adelphi College. Mr.. Oster-
hout. who Is n graduate Of Columbia, Is
4 lawyer and has offices at III Broad
way. he served overseas as a Captain,
and after the armlstice was attached
10 the American Peace Commission, and
made several trips for Herbert Hoover.
Including that Of the American Eco
nomic Missions TO Vienna and Constan-
tinople.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

A cool French dining place Is the
Petltican al s51 West Fifty-seventh
street
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

No date has been set for the mar.
rlage OF Miss Emmeline Mcknight Max
wen to Mr.. Walter William Keith or
Kansas City. Mo, whose engagement
was announced last week by her mother
Mrs Samuel Maxwell, OF 16f West
Soventy-hfth street. Miss Maxwelrs
father was the late Rev Samuel Max
well, rector Of old Trinity Church, Pitts
hurgh. and later Of ST. paul's at Glen
Cove. r. J. She is a granddaughter OF
The late William and Sarah Hornsby
Mcknight Of Pittsburgh. During the
war Mr. Keith served with the Aviation
Corps.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29
NUMEROUS BRIDES NAME
THEIR WEDDING ATTENDANTS

Continued from Second Page.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

NJ. and Mrs. Nathan Brody Of III
West END avenue gave a reception on
Thursday evening at the Ritz-Carlton
for their daughter Miss Helen J.. Brody.
whose engagement 70 Mr. Milton y. Kolb
was announced recently
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

At tho Hof Brau Haus, tho old land
mark In Broadway at Thirtleth street,
Won Shlllagh's Monte Carlo orchestra
plays for the dancing.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Continued from Second Page
ton, and Miss Edna Geogagen as brides
maids.
Mr.. Loughman who is a grand nephew
OF the late Henry p. Plant, viii have
his brother Mr.. Henry Loughman for
his best man. The ushers will be
the Messrs Kenneth McAleenan, Town
send Burt. Frank Dunn of Gedney
Farms, and Marshall McAnerney OF
Douglaston. l.. |.
Formal announcement has been made
OF the engagement OF Miss Margery
Iewett Currie, daughter of Mrs Minnie
S. Currie OF Ardsley, N. Y, and Green
wich, Conn, to Mr.. Elbridge Gerry
Snow Sd of this city and Greenwich,
son of Mr.. Elbridge Gerry Snow. Jr.,
and grandson Of Mr.. Elbridge Gerry
Snow Of $50 West Fifty-ninth street.
Miss Currie Is daughter OF the late
Walter Jewett Currie, a former MEM
her OF the New York Stock Exchange.
She attend ed the Misses Masters School
at Dobbs Ferry and the National Park
Seminary AZ Forest Glen, Md.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Mr.. and Mrs. Howard Tracy Corn
well Of this city and Pelham Manor
have announced the engagement Of their
daughter. Miss Katharine Livingston
C5Snwell. to Mr.. Robert Morgan Keeney
OF New London, Conn. Miss Cornwell
Is a graduate OF the Rayson School.
and her fiance was graduated from
Amherst College.
The New York herald., 1921-05-29

Announcement has been made by Mr..
Nathaniel J. Sloane Of the engagement
# his sister, Miss Carrie Sloane OF 100
riverside Drive, to Mr.. Arthur J. Flor
nan OF Cleveland, Ohio. and Johnstown,
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22
Holland Rejects Our Oil Protest.

The Dutch Minister of Foreign Affairs has replied
10 tn. American note regarding the participation OF
American nationals in the development of the Dambi
oil fields in Sumatra The foreign minister declares
that his government makes distinction between
Dutch and foreign capital in the exploitation OF oil
fields but in this particular law granting
monopoly to the Batavia Oil Company had already
been drafted before the American government had
presented its request Reference is also made to the
fact that there other rich oil fields in the Dutch
East Indies in addition the Djamb fields which
might be developed The Dutch government, it is said
Is prepared to receive offers from American concerns
regarding concessions in these other fields similar to
those granted to the Batavia company.
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22
Rail and Mine Wages.
wv HILE the United States Railroad Labor
w Board last week announcing revision
ard in he of more than

w Board last week announcing revision
downward in the wages OF more than Iooo,-
unskiled rail workers, the most significant gov
ernmental move that has occurred since the postwar
pay shrinkage phenomenon made itself felt anthracite
and bituminous mine workers farsightedlys grded
themselves for fray with the operators which they
foresee when the present salary contracts expire
March 81, Io72
Not only did the rail labor body declare for pay
in the Of the unskilled, effective July l. but
named June as the opening date Of hearings re-
gardng proposals by the rail executives to decrease
wages Of other classes OF employees Should similar
decision be forthcoming in the case Of the skilled
groups, it would reductions for about 100000
with the beginning OF the new fiscal year.
Prevailing conditions justify ito some extent, yet
be determined its decision the board set forth in
announcement which fell unplesantly upon rail
union though its gravamen had been unex-
pected, which it nevertheless not Union leaders
had the trend of affairs time before the
board verified their fears The findings made
public after hearings which had been in progress
since early last month They mark retrocession
from the dctum of the board OF July 20, 1920, when
the pay of all classes of railway workers was in
creased approximately per cent about $6ooooo,-
600 per annum. Rail executives several months since
protested that the high pay scale insupport-
able and declared for reductions in the neghborhood
OF 20 per cent in the unskied groups. On appeal OF
the workers affected the board held that the owners
could make summary reductions but must hrSt
confer with the men This ruling observed, but
the net result the carrying OF practically every
wage contention to the board for final settlement
TIME OWNERS claimed that they were over-pay-
ing labor and could the services
for less in the open nonunion market; that
wage should logically follow cuts in living costs
that they being forced to operate at loss in
many and that they wished to aid the public by
reducing transportation rates. but were unable to do
with the pay schedule as II was.
The employees replied that gross msmanagement"
was responsible for the condition Of the rails; that
increased house rentals nullihed most of their
advantage achieved in 1920 and that rail wages still
unfavorabe in comparison with those appertain-
ing in other industries.
Now the finding has come. To say that labor
does not like the situation, of course is expressing it
mildly But it also is certain that labor will proceed
cautiously to make its next in the boodess but
determined fight for retention of high pay scales. 1t
realizes that such finding by an impartial government
agency carries profound significance; that it is the
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22
Ships Sail Despite Strike.

figures ship salings made public by the
r Department OF Commerce last week show tho
- effects of the shipping strike up to the middle
OF May.
From the first of the month, to the I5th total
of 4o6 American steamers sailed from American ports,
From New York, steamers sailed. while only
FIVE were held up Twenty-Five left Norfolk and nine
teen were delayed while thirty-three from New
Orleans compared to eleven which stayed in port.
On the coast, forty-three left San Francisco,
and ffty-hve remained at the dock. In Los Angeles
sixty sailed and fourteen stayed At Seattle seventeen
got away and nine held up.
The principal ports Of the country shown in
detail in the column below, the figures being for the
first two weeks of the month.
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22

Illustrious Men Pass On.


books Of three great Americans: jurst un-
surpassed. former Cabinet officer upon whom
the toga OF Presidential nomination would probably
have had he been born in the land to which he
dedicated himself and scientist who wrought quietly
but greatly for the knowledge and power of the United
States in peace and war. t.f
These men were Edward Douglas White. Chief
Justice Of the United States Supreme Court Franklin
X Lane for eight years Secretary OF the Interior and
DIR. Edward Bennett Rosa. chief physicist and head
Of the electrical division of the Bureau Of Standards
Department Of Commerce. Heart attacks the
cause of all three demises, following surgical op
erations and two decidedly premature regards the
allotted span.
Chief Justice White died early Friday at Provi-
dence Hospital Washington. six days after opera,
ton for an old trouble which he had neglected for
his bench duties Mr. Lanes death occurred Wednes-
day at the Mayo brothers sanitarium at Rochester,
Minn just when he had apparently emerged from what
he described in hospital notes as valley OF the
shadow into which he walked of his accord"
DIR. Rosa was found stricken at his desk Tuesday
Born in I84s in louisiana, Catholic and vet
eran of the civil war on the Confederate side Justice
White rose through his States legislature to the
United States Senate and thence in 1894 to the Su-
preme Court He ndefatigible worker and
profound student and interpreter Of the law, ancient
and modern
r. LANE was a native of Prince Edward Is
IVv land near Nova Scotia, and born in
AVA 1864 His father removed to California,
where the boy was educated. emerging from academic
and law studies the University of California to en-
ter the newspapersfeld He was first enabled to en-
pioy his legal training in the interests Of the Federal
government when appointed to the Interstate Com
merce Commission in 1905, later becoming chairman
Some of the best formulated and most fully sustained
rulings of that body Mr.. Lanes handiwork Under
his administration Secretary Of the Interior to
which post he was appointed by Woodrow Wilson,
branch attained high degree OF
efficiency
Mr.. Lane resigned his portfolio about one year
before the close of the Democratic administration, to
become an executive In New York oil concern. His
farewell to employees of the Interior Department
raught with prescence Of his approaching end
With many others Of his papers it is regarded as
document produced by man who would have been
outstandngly successful in the literary field
DR. Rosa was born in Rogersville, N. Y, in 1901
was a graduate of Wesleyan University and held an
honorary degree from Johns Hopkins. He came to
the Bureau of Standards from the of college
professor During the world he directed develop
ment of a number OF scientific instruments which
were of inestimabe value American forces oversees
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22
Mrs. Bergdoll Sentenced.

M n ENER VIII I pay hnt. FtIHdPS sI"T 80
I'M to jail Maybe would be better off,
Such was the militant declaration Of
Mrs. Emma C. Bergdoll mother of the notorious
Grover Cleveland Bergdoll afted Judge Dickinson in
the United States District Court at Philadelphia had
sentenced her to pay fine of $1,000 for the part she
took in the escape OF her two Stacker sons from the
draft The trial was concluded last Tuesday.
The cont decreed an alternative to payment OF
this sum year and day in jail and thther, accord
ing to Mrs. Bergdolls defiance, she seems bound
Two of her codefendants given the same choice
between fine and imprisonment Two others, con-
victcd of completely, were given $1,000 each or SIX
months in jail All fines imposed. said Judge Dckn-
son. must be paid by June IS.
The Washington herald., 1921-05-22

Total ........................I42 406
The Shipping Board announces it is entirely salts
fed with sailing records, which very nearly approach
a normal week. THE achievement Of obtaining tho
requisite number of sail vessels" said state
ment, "s taken to indicate the real feeling among the
men themselves. Engineers continue to present them
selves for duty and American sailors and American
frcmen have been available in numbers.
result of class feeling might be charged in the
Of reductions by private corporations but sign Of
the times which they must pause to scrunize.
In the case OF the anthracite mine workers. their
amalgamation with their bitumnous brethren
will represent consolidation Of 100000 The union
decided upon a. conference in New York par
tcipated in by international officers Of the United
Mine Workers Of America and the presidents and in
ernaonal board members Of the three union districts
comprising the anthracite field 1t further decided
that the anthracite trdisrict convention usually held
In August for formulation Of wage scales, would
be postponed until after the international convention
Of the United Mine Workers at Indianapolis IN latter
September.