The New York herald., 1921-10-02

one does not desire to be so ornamental
there are plain black satin and gray
felt hats, some Of them with tiny silver
tassels along the outstanding edges at
each side.
The idea Of shells Is enchanting, al
though one hopes that only youth will
adopt them, for they harden the face.
but the sequins of mother-of-pearl which
initiate the inside OF seashell are
lovely with any skin, and these she uses
on evening turbans, on satin hats. on
the pointed drapery Of gowns. They
were Immediately adopted at Deauville.
Renee Revives the Ru~sian Blouse.
Last winter and spring the house of
Renee found special favor In the eyes
OF the Americans, and this September
they crowded on the Champs Elysees
to see what she had and II they liked II.
They found that she had gone to the
peasant for inspiration. Not that any
peasant. Russian. Rumanian or French
would appear in floating clothes of vapor
blue or onion skin brown. tr let their
fragile skirts touch the floor, but few
people would recognize themselves in
picture, and so, despite the dissimllarity
between Renee frocK for tie winter OF
1921 and a peasant blouse, the source Is
the same.
These new suits and froclss, which will
crowd each other In America probably, II
the waist line Is not too extreme. are re-
peated In several colors and fabrics. The
late Charles Dana once said that
reitcration was convincing. and Renee
l axy - ~. A. H.
that she intends to emphasize the tunic
and the frock with extraordinary length
to the waist, extraordinary breadth at
shoulders and waist, y this can be done
by reiteration.
There Is not suggestion OF narrow
ness about her clothes No one can
look slim In them. There Is more chance
for that In the hoopsxirts OF Lanvin and
Callot and the circular skirts of Poiret.
There Is more chance to be slim In the
skirts than the bodices. as the latter ap-
pear to escape the figure altogether.
They sag over the wide low belt which
is tied about the lower part OF the hips,
making the string girdle slightly below
the waist appear as old fashioned as 4
normal waist line. These new girdles are
adopted by all the houses. so there Is
no way OF escape. As Renee uses them
they direct attention to the hips and
keep II there. Sometimes there Is a
band OF fur at the lower edge. Again
there Is embroidery or crystals.
But what strikes one full In the face
when viewing these gowns Is the new
silhouette. the Russian tunic, the cutting
OF the figure exactly In half with the
huge ornamental girdie and the sagging
Of the blouse over this girdle.
Renee also advocates small capes and
IAr Nv,An Ce.< e. &.t
the frock, even when they are OF fur
Jenny Makes Pictures OF Sleeves.
No observer is left In doubt as to the
part OF the costume that Jenny prefers.
IL Is the covering that adorns the arm.
France has gone from one extreme to
the other. First, there were no sleeves
and that fashion still prevails, but 1t is
now evident that the pendulum has
swung to the most ornate, voluminous, /
colorful, exaggerated sleeves that mind
can device. Italy In her glory has done
nothing her colleagues do at the moment.
Ar1nholes are casually treated Usual
ly they are forgotten. Jenny appears to
employ them when all other means have
failed to get the drapery to fall as she
wishes. One popular sleeve which will
be In full force In America is nothing
back Of a sleeveless bodice. then caught
with snaps on each shoulder. the ends
dropping to the knees II they should be
left to hang, but they aren't They are
wrapped about the arms, forming curl
Gus types of sleeves.
Another arm covering-that's the word, |
for their Identification as a sleeve is
ioolish--is merely a part of the loose, |
broad bodice. cut wide enough to hang
over the arm and reach the hand. A try |
ms shape for a broad woman. The |
fabric hansS loosely. like useless flesh. |
under the arms to the waistline. She |
does In a less conspicuous manner what |
the Callot Sisters do: she drops u wide. |
hanging sleeve from an elbow bracelet |
Bear well In mind that none of these |
sleeves Is held In at the wrist. Such |
is not the fashion OF the hour. They |
must drop over the hand Chinese fash |
ion. or they must end squareiy at the |
wrist. Jenny has a gown OF black crepe |
de Chine with lace sleeves and back OF |
bodice cut in one OF lace touched with |
red bead embroidery the sleeves are ex-
actly as deep as the bodice they do not |
curve in anywhere.
Once upon time new house on the |
Place Vendome called by the name of
Premct essayed a new movement TO |
frocls with a transparency that was
astounding 10 n world when had re-
gardcd opaqueness as the necessary mod
csty for women. The skirts were cling
in. and revealing. the silhouette was
that of a kimono, the embroidery was
that of master and all the world of
fashion and curiosity went there to see. |
What interested them especially was the
perk and unusual bow of the Japanese
variety placed at the back.
This house, which has had It's seasonal |
- - - g.