The New York herald., 1921-12-25
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

BY ANNE RITTEN HOUSE.
~ NCE in while reporters note
l book has a certain interest.
and 1t might supply just
enough of the news of dress to stimu-
late investigation into the question of
fashion on day like this. Here, then,
is collection of facts gathered up
from the sources where spring new
ideas, as we'll as from the places where
one sees the ideas of the designers
placed in active service.
New clothes worn by smart women
prove that the knees are not protected
by the coat. When one wants to be
really warm there must be an added
garment. 1t Is for this reason that
so many black satin and broadcloth
cloaks are worn over suits and one
piece froclss. Even fur coats ripple
away from the hips as though ice and
snow belonged to another age, not this
one.
The shops advocate satin pantalettes
that cover the knees. These are to be
worn under street clothes to give the
lower part of the body some warmth.
The short cape, thickly built. is
added to the one piece frocl as often
as the jacket. 1t is cut circular, is of
the skirt material, and lined with
heavy crepe or duvetyne. Velvet
frocks for afternoon carry their own
capes, and If they are lined with white
or sand or mouse gray so much the
better. These capes have no arm
holes. They must be wrapped about
the body with the hands and held in
place.
Tweed and homespun gowns with
thin crepe tops carry these capes.
Others carry that new kind of cape
which turns up on itself at the hem
and is gathered to a wide belt of the
fabric which fastens with a buckle in
front This belt tightens the hipline.
Jenny of Paris again produces for the
midseason similar effect with a full
blouse that is held by hip belt. The
curious touch in this costume is that
the jacket Is shorter than the blouse in
order TO show the belt. The jacket has
wide pointed inserts over the hips to
give the circular effect.
Capes Occur hi the Evening.
The tightly drawn evening wrap with
It's narrow hem and wide shoulders IS
giving place to the Victorian circular
cape, a fact which was made quite
evident by the sweeping sales during
the last week i'm November.
They are OF satin or broadcloth. often
OF velvet. Colors are accepted in the
latter fabric. but black remains the
choics for the former. Possibly econ
omy may have somewhat to do with
this choice, as the black cloth or satin
wrap can serve for the afternoon. Fur
finishes the edges In the Victorian
manner.
There Is an additional novelty In the
use OF colored duvstyne for lining. Red
Is for evening, gray and beige for the
day.
Change Predicted In NeckIinc.
No observer can doubt the sincerity OF
the dressmakers In advocating a differ
ent shape to the opening at the necR.
The public does not seem to be weary
OF the oblong opening. but the dress
makers are. IT is too easy to copy, say
they. The public should say that IL is
too difficult to wear. Despite It's sew
eral drawbacks and It's tendency TO
make the neck and shoulders look
bigger than they are. its simplicity de-
terfnines its mass popularity.
The new effort is toward a diagonal
line. This cuts across the chest from
shoulder to waist or hip. Sometimes
the other side OF the opening Is on a
straight line. This gives q curious but
not an unpleasant effect. We casually
call 1t surplice, but IL is more sharply
bias than that. The French frocks fin
fsh IL with a high masculine rever
long on the crossing side. short on the
under side. This Is of the fabric, of
satin; sometimes IL Is Of double
thickness of Georgette crepe. The lat.
ter collar Is also adopted for the round,
the square, the oblong necklne.
Return tn Real Lace Berthns.
Fashionable women have appeared at
smart places i'm the evening with point
or Duchesse lace berthas finishing the
edge of the neckline. These are held IN
place by silver shoulder straps, IL the
decolletage is Empire, which 1t Is as
often as not The fashion for high
necked evening gowns gives chance
for the two inch lace of other days
to surround the opening. Afternoon
frocks of velvet have the square decol-
letage finished with precious lace. The
opening Is quite deep in front, contrary
TO the fashion for evening bodices.
Women who possess this kind al
heirloom shohuld rush TO the cleaners
with IL. for there Is every chance TO
put IL in service. II IL not restricted b.