New-York tribune., 1921-02-06

plorers will see Everest towering to
the southwest. tt is the central peak
OF three giant caps and at first sight
appears TO be the lowest of the three.
but as the approach Is made the noun
tain towers higher and higher above.
ridge twenty miles long makes
the gradual approach to the peak from
the north. Here the explorers enter
new country and are lost in world
of ice and snow. On clear days the
miles, seems only five miles away in
the clear, dry air. Again the sum-
mlts are yelled in n,ists and fogs or
disappear in binding blizzards. The
region about the mountain is an un-
known country.
The explorers will have to spend days
in crossing passes between nameless
smaller mountains, in descending and
reascending the mile-deep gorges Of
nameIess, uncharted rivers that flow
fer miles between high cliffs, only
to disappear into subterraueous cav
erns. AT last, when the base of the
mountain is reached. permanent camp
will be established and details sent
up ahead to lay food depots for the
climbing party. This involves much
gother. spend hours in cutting foot
holds up the face of sheer precipices.
Danger in False Snow
Small plRteaus on the flanks of the
mountain will be crossed, where the
party will be in constant danger of
falling through false snow bridges into
hidden ice crevasses. 1t is planned
to then establish a final high camp
f,l, l., hn .jc
Weather conditions will vary the ma
ture of this last climb. Should clear,
cold weather continue during the peri
cd of the climb the ascent will be less
difficult. Firm, dry snow IS the best
ground for climbing. A high wind, how
ever, may sweep off this snow and leave
q bare ice cap. Steps will then be
cut in this ice-a slow and laborious
process which soon exhausts the work
ers because of the rarehed air.
Warmer weather will mean fogs and
wet snow. with an ever-present menace
from avaianches. Wind hurricanes and
bizzards may delay progress, and even
force descent. The perfect climbing
conditions of clear weather and dry,
firm snow, are not to be relied upon.
The ascent Of great mountain peak
has all the hazards and dangers Of an
arctic expedition. 1t must furthermore
be rapidly accomplished, or the men
will collapse from exhaustion, After
q certain height Is reached, however,
speed in climbing is practically impos-
sible.
Must Cut Steps Into Ice
The Duke of the Abruzz!, in his expedi-
tion, made rate of 396 feet an hour
in the attitudes between $4,000 and 23,-
450 feet. Between $3.50 and 24,250
his rate was 273, and the last etch
TO 24,600 was at the rate of $50 feet
al hour.
1t must be remembered that this is
almost sheer climbing, digging every
step into solid ice in the face of snow,
1oG and hurricane winds or lighting up
soft, crumbling snowslides, where each
step may precipitate an avalanche. If
the goal is not reached the explorers
sleep Is possible, resting before an
other attempt the next day. There
they put on wool socks and wool caps
in addition to their outer clothing
and roll up in swansdown sleeping bags
under the shelter OF light bivouac
tents.
These are the problems that confront
the 1922 expedition. OF their task
Sir Francis Younghusband says:
''Such an expedition must be essen
TALLY great adventure. High risks
will have to be run and severe hard
ships endured; hardships from intense
cold, terrific winds and binding snow
storms. We mean to obtain the best
men to be had; give them every advan-
tage we can; then trust them to
pioneer the way to the Ioftiest summit
of this planet. And when that has
been reached man will have taken d
further great step toward the mastery
OF his surroundings"