Evening star., 1921-06-19

up the fashion of coioreo
straw and went into an &C.
stacy over it. The episode re-
peats itself this season. ihe faris
r,iIliaers took 1t into aheir cle'e'
.haads to offer parasois, handbags
and wells built entirely Of straw or
sdxed with it; they made plumage OF
II, shredded 1t into fine hues anu
make tassels to initiate the Arab Veiis
which hang over one shoulder to the
waist.
During the peace conference the
house of Premet, on the Place Ven
dome. nut straw on evening frocks.
II WAS 'coiored and used as fringe
This house also put chicken feathers
brightly tinted. on skirts as substi-
tute for feathers and the Amerlcan
buyers called the output oarnyaru
clothes" The fashion for straw gaineai i
Quiescent for two years ana no" II
springs into boisterous life
The idea has not spread III Amerl-
ca. So far it is confined to re" ex
tremists. But as Paris is filled with
American tourists buying clothes 10
bring home and professional buyers
are returning on every steamer win
new ideas. one naturally expects
these straw accessories TO start over
here in fun power.
1t is best not to inquire into tne
endurance of the parasol made OF
straw. Maybe it will last; maybe II
won't. That's not the question. Ihe
problem in the woman's mind this
season is what color to choose IN a
sun shade No one has ruled out
bright red. One of the best OF these
parasols carried by a French woman
is Chinese red trimmed with red os-
f~io ri
handle carved in the ancient manner,
with the figures tinted red
IF one prefers pastel colors rather
than barbaric ones there is
straw parasol Of mauve which has a
deep border Of straw braid run with
gold thread and above this border Is
a band of violet leaves. The bag.
which matches the parasol is of straw
in the same color. Il bunch Of violets
flaring on the front. No one hesi-
tateS to make these handbags eX-
cessively ornamental. The one that
goes with the red straw parasol is
deeply fringed with red ostrich flues
and has red ribbon as a handle.
Children also enter gayly into the
fashion. They carry small fat para
soils of bright pink straw with paint
ed clowns topping the stout handle.
These clowns are made of wood and
are expertly painted to look lifelike.
When the miiiiners get quite ex-
cited over these sets they build
parasol. a bag, veil and pair of
Eauntlets to match. They do not put
straw on the veil or gauntlets. but
ostrich fringe and the latter with
bright colored cuffs laid out in broad
checks. One such set is entirely in
apple green.
Not content with making parasols
the plaything of the hour. the milli-
ners, seeing big possibilities in wells,
have started in to make them more
conspicuous than they are.
Ever since they adopted the Arabic
idea of cutting Wells in wide meas
ures and draping them in long lines,
these ornamental pieces of lace and
chiffon have become an important ac-
cessory to a hat. Often they are the
better part of it.
The small face veil was shelved by
women who led fashion several years
ago, and only the conservatives use
il in its conventional form. plaStered
across the hat and nose and tightly
2inned at back Of neck Other wo-
men have disregarded the veil as a
face protection and they now indulge
in 1t as ornamental drapery. This
fact gives the millners their chance.
The possibilities in wells are fully
carried out. 1t is new fashion in
France, for instance, to make the
veil and the neckwear in one piece. |
Boldly designed lace is chosen. which |
is placed over the hat, drawn down
to the neck in the form of 4 bird
cage. then spread out over the shoul-
ders to shape a WIDE. round collar.
1t is held in place around the neck
by checked ribbon with long ends in
front.
This ribbon is in itself a novel and
fashionable detail in costumery. 1t
is used for girdleS. it bangles from
the wrist or sleeves. it is put on hats.
The smart crepe de chine frocks, as
we'll as those of georgette crepe. carry |
a band of such ribbon about two
inches wide. placed around the hips. |
tied on one side to fall in long ends. |
IT is checked in black and white,
blue and gold. blue and buff: it is
striped or plain. But always it is !
effective. |
This ribbon makes less of a bulk |
about the hips than crepe. metal. or
even chiffon. Young women wear il !
their waist line used t" be. 1t is !
permitted to take the outline of the !
frock: it makes no attempt to con- |
fine it close to the figure.
= :: + y
DUT back to wells, for they are more
IL important to the majority of !
women than ribbon. There is a nov
city veil placed on a huge black hat |
lined with pink straw: it forms the |
crown and Stimulates the kind of
piumage that hangs over one shoul-
der. The veil is of lace studded
with pink rose buds. one end shaped
to a deep point with a rose at its
end
The idea has stimulated the dress
makers into building scarfs in imi-
tation Of the veil. They are worn
for dancing They substitute the
Spanish shawl which the Paris wom-
en- wear at smart functions. such as
the opera, dinner parties. dances in
public places and the play.
The rival to the shirt waist and
the overbIouse in the shops of Paris
is the gilet. 1t is more than
waistcoat. less than blouse. 1t is