The New York herald., 1921-05-29
This June, Contrary to Established Tradition,
Nothing Has Been Settled as to Summer Fashions
Women May Wear What They
Wish. Which Is Pleasing
and Perplexing.
By ANNE RITTENHoUsE.
month of June is counted
upon by women and dressmak-

HFE month or June Is counted
upon by women and dressmak-
ers to settle the minds Of those
who are perturbed. France sent her
model gowns to this country in
March: America worked them out to
M her own people through April and
May; June is the season of dulness
i'm creativeness, the month of fulfil
mcnt 10 those who have originated.
Therefore we should be at peace with
our clothes.
But this June is contrary to estab-
lished tradition Nothing is settled.
Women can wear what they wish.
which pleases some and perpleXes
others Fashions always reflect poll
tics and social movements; this sea-
son they show their ability to do it.
Each day brings up new Idea. Each
woman seems to find something that
no one else possesses. The dress
makers have thrown a tumble of
lovely things on the market; the
world is scrambling for them.
Let's gather UP a few of the salient
fashions and get them sharply photo
graphed in the mind as June begins.
She who knows what has been ac-
cepted and what has been refused has
some chance of spending the summer
In peace. She can decide now for the
next three months and wait until Sep
tember 70 take up a new battle of
newer fashions.
Skirts Are Not Standardized.
Here is the truth about skirts: No one
style prevails. There is fashionable
tendency to cut them long in evening
gowns: only the young accept the extra
short skirt.
Those who do not like heavy fabric
reaching nearly to the ankles find 1t
agreeable to lengthen the overdrapery
and cut 1t in irregular lines at the hem.
Some of the tulle and chiffon draperies
are ten and twelve inches longer than
the satin or taffeta skirt. This is a
graceful compromise between the short
and long skirt 1t relieves one from
strict decision
Skirts for the street are short, but
they do not aspire to the knees as they
did last winter. They are about twelve
inches from the ground on young women
and ten on older women. Dressmakers
have persuaded their patrons to study
the lines of the figure before deciding on
legs permit short skirts on middle aged
woman If she has n youthful buoyancy
of carriage: large hips and thick ankles
demand longr skirt, one with sufficient
fullness to balance the bulk of the figure.
There is no difference between the
length of the coat suit and the one piece
frock when both are intended for street
wear.
The outstanding feature OF the early
. al. 1.,,ifxr Of
the masculine coat suit. 1t returned to
fashion overnight. 1t is made OF wool
jersey, of thin homespun, of tweed.
rarely of serge and never of satin. when
II is intended for the street Summer
suits are made OF Canton crepe and
taffeta.
All attempt at ornamentation Is
abandoned. The French idea of the
war suit Is accepted. which. after all
was the original American idea of a
proper street suit Those who do not
like the rough surfaced materials. take
up tricotine and covert cloth. The latter
is strongly sponsored by some of the
best tailoring houses. 1t Is an ancient
and honorable fabric. this covert cloth,
and the last generation looked very
smart indeed in IT, especially when IL
was made into separate jackets for dark
skirts. This is another revival along
with much that we have taken from
the family album.
The details OF the new coats are not
perplexing. The costume IL simplified
ia accordance with masculine fashion
The skirt Is narrow, has a seam a.
each side and a few gathers at the back
10 give Il a graceful swing over the
end Of the spine. The coat rarely
fastens If it does. the buttons are be.
low the chest IT has long. narrow
revers a belt is optional The really
smart type OF coat is shorter than
finger length, has no belt. is cut on
square lines with slight flare in the
back.
The choice of blouses Is not limited.