Evening star., 1921-04-10

are typically Spanish and therefore
they have coquetry. The smart wom-
an wears them to any afternoon func-
ton. dropping them to show Greek
neckline and half uncovered arms.
When the gown serves for the even
evening frock is considered ultra
smart. At the ball given by Mr.. and
Mrs Mclean the night Of President
Harding's inauguration, Mrs. Mclean
wore such a gown of lusterless white
chiffon. 1t made an admiral BILE back
ground for the blue Hope diamond.
Mrs Nicholas Longworth also wore at
that ball a gown of equal simplicity.
with high decolletage. of dull green
and gold brocade.
1t is wise and economic fashion for
the six months of American warm
weather.
A curious touch in the spring fash
ions which has puzzled the reporter
is revival of fringe. 1t falls over all
frocks like a cascade of water. 1t is
rarely used in straight formation on
a skirt, but dashes about in a hectic
way over the skirt and bodice. 1t is
probably revived through the insist
ent Spanish influence on costumery.
The huge Spanish comb has come
back Certain French women have
even adopted the white stockings with
the fat black pumps of Spanish men
and women. The new type kind OF
fringe is made of lace, also of monkey
fur and of cassowary feathers. One
UNIQUE frock is of white chiffon with
tiny spurts of black monkey fringe
headed by triangles of jet These
cover the frock and from distance
the gown looks as though 1t were
built of super-fne ermine.
The pointed shaw which is the eve
ming wrap of the hour Is always edged
with deep knotted silk fringe. The
Transparent net skirts over which
evening gowns are built are edged
with gold or silver fringe.
One did not expect to see SO quick
a return Of this fashion Of 1918. 1t
may not be generally accepted IN
America Few. if any, American de-
signed gowns show it, but as the
French output exhibits the lavish use
Of II. 1t is ten to one that we VIII
| wear II. Probably the newest form
o< this fringe is of ribbon. The dead
black crepe de chine frock Will nave
| its skirt tufted with punches of black
eroserain ribbon. These bunches VIII
run in symmetrical formation. They
are not haphazard.
! The American looks a bit askance at
| a generous use of organdie. We
know the heat of our summers. We
know the price of our laundries We
! say of organdie as one of Craigie's
! heroes said Of bridge-"Life had I'm :
posed enough problems on him with
out bridge"
| The novel way in which the new
spring gowns employ organdie is to
put 1t as godets in a dark cloth skirt.
| Surely this is an extravagant method
.. of using the fabric. But the dress
makers say it gives little trouble.
! There is one frock Of dark blue twill
in the skirt of which fullness is OBJ
tained by godets of kings blue or
gandie covered with fine design of
| black soutache. This is repeated at
the neck and sleeves.
| There is another costume which
| consists of a redingote of dark blue
| cloth trimmed on each side with ap-
plications of black taffeta. Beneath
it is an entire frock of white or
| candle also covered with the scrolls
| of tafeta. You must admit that this
| is a curious gown. ThOs" who are
| insisting upon figured f:orics Won
| der why ii is that the dressmakers
have taken up plain fabrics and put
| their own fgurations upon them with
| ipSnite lahSr. Embroidery is sec
Snu-.iass fashion. but fringe. sou
taching. scrolls of applied fabric and
| round paillettes in net, silk or chf-
fon dominate spring frocks.
| Renee uses kind of leaf, of a
! material cire on one side. which
Curls over on itself and is used with
the generosity of the leaves Of Val
| ambrose.
When Renee gets tired Of her pail
lettes which she uses in colors In
black and white. in straight forma-
| i,,et va ,gGad chenille drfc c
in 1918. she uses bands and rosettes
Of these tightly curled petals. They
have no luster on one side and high
luster on the other.
II is a wonderful season for the
handWorker who likes to dabble in