Evening star., 1921-12-04

ally heavy fabric this winter, the
half-warm coat may not be an ex.
| travagance.
It is hip length and made Of mole.
skin. The front is like waist coat
| and the back and sides are gathered
| to a yoke and tucked under at the
hem to form sling effect. The col
| lar is high enough to keep the neck
warm even If the waist is cold.
Victorianism and the second en-
pire are suggested in the lavish use
of fur bands on cloth when one goes
into the open. Here and there one
finds that expensive brocades and
thin crepes are trimmed with peltry
for indoor wear. and one dressmaker
goes so far as to put sable on
a rule. one finds the Victorian idea
worked out on cloth garments that
are to serve in the streets.
There is not much of an attempt
to create picturesque appearance
by using directly opposite colors in
the two when possible. Squirrel or
chinchilla goes on gray gowns or
wraps, or lacking this fur, or not
desiring it because it does not always
wear well, the gray fox is used.
Brown fur is used on black, max
ing up a combination that came into
first fashion over year ago. Black
velvet is able to carry any kind of
peltry. The dark tailored suits. such
as bottle green, smoke gray. warm
tan, and Burgundy, carry whatever
fur one has or can buy.
The new idea is to cut the fur into
narrow strips and place them on the
foundation at regular spaces apart.
Velvet capes are sometimes covered
with such bands.
The long surplice collar is more
frequently used on evening wraps of
q
coats or capes.
The tailored suit carries high col
lar that mounts to the chin, the kind
that is commonly called a coachman's
collar. 1t has risen into power
through the fashion to fasten a street
coat to the neck and turn it over or
cut it down in front.
The desire the dressmakers' show
to invent cuffs of curious shape and
exaggerated size gives one a chance
to place huge pieces of fur on the
, sleeves. The usual cuff as far as the
kind that is caught together near
the arm in an attempt to keep it
from being q nuisance.
There are also circular founces of
fur that finish sleeves, starting below
the elbow and flaring over the hand,
/, they will stand out from the arm be-
tween the elbow and wrist.
And all these tricks, innovations
and inventions give woman an oppor-
tunity to give old fur garments an
other chance to carry on.
THE dressmakers stepped in when
: they found that the use of small
pieces of old fur might keep women
away from new purchases. They in
vented the idea Of trimming clothes
with bands Of dyed slynx and they
sent women forth into the world
with bright splashes of apple green
at neck and wrists, also of bright
blue. The cold tone of gray in which
saynx has appeared gave way to
vividness and the observers wondered
at the art of the dyer and the dar-
| ing Of the dressmaker.
The idea has not become common
over here in America, but 1t remains
q leading fashion. We shall see
bright red sheep next, probably.
Women who are not Interested In
the large garment of fur ask hum
dred questions about the things that
are to be worn over the shoulders.
The answer 10 simple, for the ami
NAL, be 1t what it may, Is the chosen
shape. There are foxes In all colors
and small sables and the head re-
mains where nature placed 1t, 30
does the tail.