The New York herald., 1921-04-24

mourning that is not mourning. Those
who are iourneying abroad in such
numbers that steamer rates are as high
Olympus and accommodations as rare
as selfless charity. seem bent on pack
ing their trunks with varied assort-
ment Of inky black costumes. because OF
the report that such clothes are the most
acceptable IN Paris and London.
Suggests Checks and Colors.
Women who remain here to meet the
torrid conditions OF the major part OF
our summers should be glad to swing
away from black into white and checks
and colors.
She who lends an ear. however TO
the innovations in arm coverings will
be able to give stimulating effect
through their acceptance to her cos
tunes whether she elects TO remain in
black or leap into bright colors.
Delightful fashions there are ir
sleeves. The public should inscribe
round robin of thanks to offer to the
French dressmakers for their success
full efforts in this line OF costumerN
such innovations tickle the senses o.
the amateur as well as the professional,
especially the former, for despite al
previous failures and discouragements
the woman who is not able to oGy
gladly into the task of rebuilding ola
Clothes into new ones Some prefer II TO
outright purchasing.
II is true that the amateur and lns
small dressmaker are better fltteo TOT
such work than for large eadeaNots
which encompass new material ana un-
tried patterns. One of the SAD con-
ciusions arrived at through torceu
economy in clothes during the reign OF
terrific prices is that the cheap gown az
the ready-to-wear price has mere style
and character than the most painstak-
ing effort of the women who builds her
clothes at home. 1t is day of speciaN-
zation raised to the nth degree. Others
can do most things better for us than
we can do for ourselves.
All the ages have touched upon the
sleeve that merely used the arm as
limb from which to swing. 1t has been
dormant for many seasons and now Is
revived in glory. Possibly no one oe-
sfpner was responsible for it's revival.
IT came into being through concerted
action.
II has marked charm. It's width and
length are dependent upoE the hour
which the frock serves. In the strictly
tailored suits for which Americans and
French show a renewed interest there
is no attempt to Introduce any feature
SO ornamental as this Oriental sleeve.
1t would interfere with the business of
life.
Outside OF that suit and the tailored
frock that is it's substitute. there Is a
world for this sleeve to conquer. Every
other kind OF costume can he turned
into something new by the addition OF
one of these square pieces of fabric.
In evening clothes they are a blessing
not disguised. The Grecian armhols.
guiltless OF sleeve. Is all very we'll as
ore Of q variety. bat its universally
among our women has given ms impetus
to seek fresher ideas.
As long as semi-nudity controls the
social convention for those affairs that
take place after dark. and as the half
high frock with sleeve Of any length
in transparent fabric is acceptable for
the most formal occasion, as IL was In
the rich Renaissance days, all women
can indulge In their favorite sport-that
OF making the afternoon frock serve for
the electric hours.
1t is Just at this point that these
newly revived sleeves come into fun
play; here IS where they serve the
greatest need. And they enhance econ
omy by pushing further into the future
The necessity for the long Kid glove
whL<n now ranks as n luxury.
There are none so inartstic, no mat
ter how welded they may be to the old
"a shioned habit Of covering the hands
In the evening, as TO wrinkle length
OF harsh white kid beneath the Oriental
arm draperies of unEned gold and silver
lace, of sea green chiffon or tulle. or
raspberry net embroidered with silver
srsbesques OF white chiffon covered
win a tracery OF rhinestones and pearls.
The woman who wears an evening
frock OF capucine red crepe de Chine
with a flowing sleeve OF thin gold lace
put INTO an aTTnhole that reaches 10 the
waistline. n sleeve sufficiently long to
cover the knuckles, will not commonize
tt by stretching length Of protective
leather over the soft contour or the
flesh. To do this would be TO throw
away the money paid for the frock.
Imagine how a kid glove would ap-
pear under that wat orraIl sleeve which
has caught the fancy Of those who ere
ate attractive things. This sleeve is a
genuine novelty. IL is built OF strands
OF pearls and silver thrcnda dropping
from loose foundation sleeve which
covers the arm from shoulder to wrist.
AS the wearer lifts the arm, these rain
like strands drop in glittering frag-
n1ents 10 the knees
IN frock OF green and silver brocade
there are tho kind OF arm coverings
which Melisande wore when che beg1tiled
pelIeas. They sweep the floor they are
of green chiffon. running TO n point,
they are gathered inro a short arm
band which is edged with points OF silver
thread to match the design around the
medi@val neckline. This gown has no
sirdle. Il is cut as slin1ly as any worn
by the Pharaohs. The woman who
wears II wears in her ears long pendants
of beaten silver an1 green jade. The
extravagant fashion for bracelets which
began the day after the war ceased and
reached it's height last winter has not
ended. Beneath these Oriental sleeves
bands Of metal and colored stones are
quite appropriate and women continue
10 place them between the shoulder and
ths wrist. always taare is one, u not
rnnre. Rbovh the elbow. Once u was I'm