Arizona republican., 1921-10-11
THE PERFUMER AT WORK

der from the Alps in big glass bot < ties, and bergamot in copper kettles from Sicily and Italy. Oil of lemon in kettles is one of the few essences which would be recognized here by the average person from the odor. It smells just like the peel-strong, pleasantly pungent. Cumarin powder from Holland is another pleasant smelling ingredient. giving the fresh scent of new mown hay.
 Perfume With Punch
 But the climax of the smelling tour is not reached. The head chemist picks up a COW horn, such as the pioneers once used for gun powder There is a leather pouch fastened over the top. This he cautiously re- moves, warning the visitor to inhale with discretion. It is timely warn ing for the scent so carefully packed TOT shipping Is that of civet from the ciyet cat-a smell well known for It's nauseatfng potency. Northern Africa contributes this delicacy to the perfumer, sending it in horns like the one described. This is the most powerful odor of the entire collection, even outranking musk which is seen and smelled nearby
 Musk. from the musk-deer has the appearance of a dark brown pod and smells damp and musty with faint suggestion of old leather in it's bouquet. The value of the dingy brown musk pods is in direct con trast to their esthetic appeal. The pods are bought through a French bank. Special messengers carry the musk in small bags. each worth per haps s5,000. Musk brings $500 a pound.
 Most people," the chemist ex- plained. have no idea that these heavy animal odors play an import ant part in almost every perfume. The public thinks that rose perfume Is single odor. As a matter of fact, a rose preparation would prob ably include not only the delicate floral essence, but an oil-sandal- wood, or patchouli-to round it out and give it bouquet, and then one or the heavies, such as musk, civet, Or amoergris for a fixative.
 The complete perfume may be compared to a musical composition With the animal odors for undertones in the bass clef, and the floral es- sence for the melody in the treble Odors have different tonal values. Certain tones blend. and if combined in balanced proportions there is har- mony. Otherwise there may be dis
 
 discord in music.
 There are two kinds of perfumes. There are the perfumes that repre- sent some particular flower. and there are the composites or bouquets which contain sometimes 40 diff ferent odors gathered from the four corners of the earth.'
 Perfume and Character
 These bouquets. he explained. are now very popular in this country, though rose and violet are always best sellers. The single flower per fume is generally preferred by strongly individualistic persons.
 The perfumes a woman uses is as good an index of character as the music she likes. The Russian per fumes are heavy, almost oriental, with suggestion of leather. Oriental perfumes easily call up the mysteri- ous East. Americans prefer the more delicate and spiritual scents.
 The chemist tells us that perfume is more widely used now than ever in history. When Louis KY demand ed new perfume originated special ly for him each day, and farther back, when Greek aristocrats bathed m violet scented fountains, and Rome tried to make laws to keep her wealthy men from amounting them serves three times a day and using different perfumes on different parts Of the body-in all those times-per- fumes was the most precious posses sion Of the patrician class. A gift of myrrh, spikenard, or aloes was a princely offering. Today perfume is within reach of practically everyone.
 As generally as it is used there are things about perfume that people do not always understand. One is that perfume is four times as strong as toilet water. The latter may be sprayed without much dan ger of turning oneself into a walk ing flower garden, but a perfume should be dispensed less generously. Is far more concentrated and lasting. A drop or two is sufficient.
 Another fact that perfume users might remember to advantage in se- lecting essences is that some odors are what is known as dry" Violet IS one of these. A dry odor cannot be judged satisfactorily from the bottle. It should be sprayed or dropped on something and allowed to dry. In fact, almost any perfume can be better pronounced upon in this way, as a sniff at one bottle