davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

as we'll as Parisiennes. Although
the hair is arranged not only with
plalnness, but apparently with pre-
cision, most fantastic headdresses
are worn, as you will see by the
illustrations.
The large Spanish comb is re-
tanned. The newest combs are of
ivory rather than shell. These
white combs are most effective. For
those who do not like an all-white
comb they may be had with beau
full enameling in color as we'll as
with settings of precious stones.
The weirdest of feather orna-
ments are chosen for the hair.
Bands of the costly and forbidden
paradise may completely encircle
the head or plumage of the com
mon barnyard fowl may make the
eraziest looking headdress imagin-
able. The huge feather headdress
OF the uncivilized Indian maiden
of a hundred years ago appears
quite tame beside some of the
feather arrangements designed to
be worn on the heads of women OF
to-day.
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

can collar fastening to one side. By
way of variety, this skirt is pleated
and cut longer in the front and back
than it is at the sides, but any plain
skirt may be used with a bodice
such as Lhis.
Embroideries are not lacking on
wash dresses, but they are reserved
more especially for models of linen
or crash. A straightline frock of
natural colored crash is most attrac-
tive with heavy embroideries in
brown. saw such frock in one of
our great American importing
houses just as it was being unpacked
from it's tissue paper wrappings
after its voyage from Paris.
The skirt portion was embroidered
with heavy threads of mercerized
brown cotton from the hem to about
the knees; it was a chemise dress.
The bottom of the sleeves were orna-
mented in like manner, and so was a
narrow collar which stood straight
up around the neck, but turned down
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

heavy white linen-the chemise
model is used for the heavier fabrics
are trimmed straight down front
and back panels with points of red
and white checked gingham. The
glngham also is stitched in pointed
effect around the neckline. which is
somewhat high but a shallow oval
IN form, and around the sleeves.
The short cap sleeve, which is Just
little puff, is used in summer
dresses of the lighter materials, such
as voiles and crepes. 1t also makes
an occasional appearance in some of
the heavier fabrics, but, although
the dress itself is of heavier cotton.
the 1880 sleeve is of thinner ma
terial. For instance, quaint look
lng dress of f1ow cred chintz, made
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
in the front, as the dress was slashed
and folded back to form revers.
A Quaint Dress That,
Harks Back to 1880

a NEW way of using worsted en-
broidery on a linen frock, and
also OF obtaining a good deal OF
color, appears in a demure gray
chemlse dress It has an apron tunic
IN the front only. attached to the
waist portion at low line. The
trimming consists of appliqued mo-
tits of bright colored linen in novel
shapes stitched to the dress with
worsted of contrasting hue.
AS variation of the embroidered
mining, sfreieht chenlise frocks Of
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
1in83hams as Gay as the Summer
Fresh Crispness

NHE Cubistic figures on this
4 page illustrate some new
ideas in gingham and linen
dresses and the latest de-
velopments in hairdressing, the
sketches of which I have Just re-
ceived from Paris.
Before preparing this article in
terviewed the head Of the most sue
cessful firm in America importing
materials for wash dresses. "The
best thing | can tell you about ging-
hams," said he, ais that they are the
best thing in the world. No other
cotton dress fabric approaches them
in volume of sales this year."
Every summer wardrobe that
makes any pretension whatever OF
approaching completeness should in
clude several gingham frocks. This
IS good news, because gingham has
much besides fashion to recommend
it. No woman is averse to buying
inexpensive clothes that are in the
height of fashion, and this is one Of
the things that still may be said of
the gingham frock. The price of
gingham is now considerably lower
than it has been for two or three
years.
The prettiest dresses of this fab
ric are simple, the beauty Of such a
dress lying in the selection Of colors
and perhaps an unusual bit of trim
ming.
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

FROM etLnen dress taxing its inspiration from coubop cosn
ed and phfe cheked gngam ock NTH trimmings of pe organ
die and fopefs embroidered in red poed Vhte Ern J Ill
conventional design heavy bropn cotton thread o H.;
dress Of bropn linen Illustrating The abundant use of oaande
on mash dresses At1e bottom Of The shopn some amodn
types OF haH dressing much the mode of The moment - p
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

trim the neck and sleeves in the
same way.
Neither worsted nor organdie
is new trimming for gingham
dresses. but evidently designers
have not been able to think of any
thing prettier to take their place,
for we have them used more pro-
fusely than ever this year. This
is especially true of organdie.
Quantities of organdie frills, both
gathered and pleated, are seen.
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
A Collar Rejecting
The Mexican Note

IF YOU are youthful amateur
dressnaker you may prefer the
Mexican note sponsored so strongly
by Jeanne Lanvin, of Paris, in her
spring and summer collection of
clothes. The frock at the lower left
Of to-day's page shows the straight
bodice. ss3ust described, with a Mexi-,
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
Paris Notes

in Paris which amounts al
- most to a madness. It is for
a gray TAILORED suit, one-but-
ton jacket style, snug-ftting coat
sleeves, small coat collar, and re-
vers to the waistline, where the one
button is placed in link form.
There is a slight side flare to the
coat, and it is about three-quarters
fitting. These suits have appeared
in such numbers on the streets Of
Paris that the smart woman looks
as if she had gone into uniform.
O'Rossen, the tailor Of the Place
Vendome, makes this suit. It has
all the finish and neatness of high.
priced man-tailored suit. After
having worn the dress for so many
seasons this mannish tailored suit
comes as distinct novelty with the
chic Parisienne.
This tailor, who has made phe-
nomenal success of a very simple
costume, is so busy taking orders
that he stands in the middle of his
reception room taking measurements
as fast as he can, the women practi*
cally standing in line, each AWAITING
her turn.
His gray tailored suit is what ths
French term c'est une foil, and is
typical of Paris. Once a style is a
fashion every smart woman wears
exactly the same model, with not
even a hairs breadth of variation
and no spot of individuality. This is
Paris. A spring madness has been
this gray tailored suit.
The Unfortunate Lack
OF Dress Individuality
IT ALWAYS has been considered
typical of the women of America
to slavishly follow a fashion, show
ing almost no individuality in dress.
Again and again it has been pointed
out as one of the great faults Of the
way in which Americans dress.
None more smartly gowned in the
world, it is said, but no individuality.
If a craze for a certain style be-
comes prevalent all women adopt It,
taking no account of age or complex
ion. This madness over, gray tai
lored suit proves most conclusively
that following like sheep in fashions
is not confined to the American.
Scarlet purses are carried with
gray suits TO afford bright and
pleasing color contrast. They are
envelope shape and of rather large
dimensions. Great is their con-
venience, owing to the fact that they
open out fat and have ever so many
compartments-a welcome change
from the handbag into which one
dived frantically in hasty search
for small articles.
Elaborate Mountings on
Handbags and Purses
0F COURSE, the envelope is not
the only shape in frequent use,
nor is red leather the only material
There is great variety in the shape,
the size and the colorings of the new
French purses. There are large
caselike purses of-black suede carry
ing handsome monograms and tiny
evening bags of elongated shape
made of bright colored failles,
,onniraS and nd11,r st,;nad silks
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05

with straight bodice and full-gath-
cred skirt, has puff sleeves of white
organdie, the cuffs of which are
stitched with red worsted. Further
touches of the organdie appear in
the form of picoted ruff1es encircling
the skirt and deep, round neck.
Modes of Hairdressing
Sponsored by Paris
THE hairdressings shown at the
bottom of this page may ap-
pear rather extreme, partly through
the French drawings displaying
them. They are, however, the last
word in Paris and very interesting
to US as an indication of vogue
for smooth and uncurl6d arrange
ments Of the hair, as in opposition
to the much waved and puifed colt
fure which has been worn for sew
eral years. The exaggerated
psyche knot low down on the head
is shown on the central figure and
is much affected by Enghshwomen
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
Red and White Checks
Brighten the Landscape
IT MIGHT be expected, with the

IT MIGHT be expected, with the
present craze for dull, black silk
dresses, that black and white cot
tons would be chosen. But fashion,
ever contradictory, says no. In
wash fabrics we must be gay. Black
and white cottons had their innings
last year. Now their place is
usurped by red and white checks.
There is goodly showing of brown
and white as well as many greens,
but reds are most prominent.
According to an old-time saying,
an individual is as old as he or she
feels, and no woman could help feel
ing very young in these fresh, crisp
wash dresses that in design, ma
terial and coloring are very like
those she wore in her schoolgirl
days. Except for the size it would
be next to impossible to distinguish
them from little girls dresses.
The full skirt which stalks so
threateningly among the new clothes
finds logical place in the cotton
dress. The slim silhouette is re-
tanned by dressmakers catering to
the women who really know most
about dress and who always demand
beauty in their clothes, but the full
skirt is among US. It Is not nearly
so beautiful in models Of cloth as
those which follow the natural lines
OF the figure, but it is much more
suitable to the dress of wash ma
terial than the peasant chen1ise.
A Youthful Model With
Organdie Trimmings
A CHARMING dress for warm
summer mornings may be
made of red and white checked
gingham IN the following way: Cut
the bodice portion just like
chemise dress with kimono sleeves
and gather full skirt to this
slightly below the normal waistline.
The neck may be square or round
and finished with a bias fold of
bright red organdie underlaid
with one of white. The sleeves
may be cut off at any length de-
sired, although rather short ones
would be attractive and these
should be edged with organdie in
two colors to match the neck.
Now make narrow belt of the
red organdie or of the gingham
If you like and line 1T with white. |
allowing the white to show at either
edge In the form of piping.
Ornament this with two tiny stiff
fiat bows of the red faced with
white. Tie the girdle in the back,
permitting the stiff little bows to
come st eitherrside of the front.
The skirt may be plain or it may
have two large tucks encircling 1t.
II further ornamentation is de-
sired sew the tucks in long run
ning stitch With red worsted and
= stelk11usuus.6s.ssxs.ssx
New-York tribune., 1921-06-05
Elaborate Mountings on
Handbags and Purses

0F COURSE, the envelope is not
the only shape in frequent use,
nor is red leather the only material
There is great variety in the shape,
the size and the colorings of the new
French purses. There are large
caselike purses of-black suede carry
ing handsome monograms and tiny
evening bags of elongated shape
made of bright colored failles,
moires and oddly striped silks
mounted on small, square tops. Much
elaboration is noted in the mount
ings of afternoon and evening
purses, many being studded with
costly jewels.
For those who hold to the fashion
for black or black and white. eschsw-
ing all bright colors for the time
being, there are beautiful littLa
pocketbooks of black silk with pearl
studded mountings or with the
wearer's monogram outlined IN
pearls.
A great vogue is evinced for very
decorative mountings and frames Tor
handbags. So many women are
doing tapestry and bead embroidery
that it makes these novelty frames
in great demand, as once the work
is finished the bag can be sewn to
one of these mountings with gratl-
flying results. Owing to the popu-
larity of Egyptian patterns in tap
estry work many of the new frames
also are in Egyptian designs.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
TO INVESTIGATE The
FORCE OF MAGNETISM

Los Angeles, CAL, Aug. 17-The force Of mysterious
magnetism Of Madaynne Obenchain at least three
men is the chief point which District Attorney Thomas
Woolwne today conferred his investigation of the murder
|of John Bolton Kennedy
Woolwine declared he believed the mysterious murder
would be solved if he could find out the following facts
what power Madalynne Obenchain possessed over
Kennedy to the murdered to communicate with
her the night she married Ralph Obencain and keep in
Communication with during the time she lived with the
Chicago laWyer?"
what strange influence did she have over Ralph
Obenchan to force him to allow her to obtain divorce
that she might fly to Kennedy"
"Wha was that powerful impulse that led Obenchain
give up his present position with possibility Of advance
ments and rush half way the continent to her?
"What is her holding on Arthur Burch, who stands
jointly accused of the murder with her. that he left his
business bankrupt and travelled three thousand miles to
help out pal?"
'The explanation of Burch and Mrs. Obenstain is
that they innocent Woolwine said They have made
other explanation to help to solve this they
are innocent why don't they so? want to know why
Burch does not try to explain the tracks Of the auto he
rented from the why does he not tell where he
went the a mile drive? innocent why does he not
explain who took the package from the hotel in response
from telephone call believed to have been from NADIA
lynne? Why does he not explain the visit Madalynne
made to the hotel disguised blond to his room and
why not explain why he spying Kennedy and what
was he doing here?" asyed the prosecutor.
Woolbine said he going to find out what these two
much afraid to tell He wants to know why if they
innocent they claim to be- that they would rather
face the galloWs than reveal what they know.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
JUDGE HOLDS TAX LEVY
Law UNCONSTITUTIONAL

Fargo Aug 1.-THE 1921 session laws limiting tax
eves of political subdivisions were held unconstitutional
in district court here yesterday by Judge A. D. Cole
Attorney Holt appeared for Stewart Wilson, Fargo
special election to increase the tax levy Is per cent held
that the law violated the amendment three times:
It covered more than suit he maintained and aft
back house and read only instead Of three
times as required by the law and the senate changed the
original principals Of the BILL at the time retaining
the title whereas the law declares there be amend
ment changed from it's original purpose
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
FRENCH TENNIS CHAMPION LOSES

Forest Hill, N. Y, Aug. 17.-Suz:nne Lenglen, the lit
tie tennis marvel of France sat in her apartments here
today with only her mother to comfort her. The Amer
champion, Mrs. Moa Mallory yesterday not only de-
feated the queen of European courts and claimant OF the
world championship but forced her to quit after losing the
first se to g. The American champion despite the
victory deserves full credit 1t was her day with the
great game and proved to be the day Of her life The
French girl could not have from the American
she had been perfect condition. she said to be suffer-
ing from severe cough.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
BAND OF oK1LLERsn BELIEVED UNCOVERED

New York. Aug. l7-New York detectives today took
up the search for dozen so-called good killers" The
search began after P Fontana, barber admitted to
murder committed by him. and implicated band Of six
fell in New York. and nine others in Detroit Fontana is
said to have unfoded potof gang who he said worked
under the Of good killers He said the killing be-
gan with murder in Brooklyn Is years ago. From that
murder sprang the gang who powerful in the Italian
UNDERWORLD and have made hundreds and thousands Of
dollars Any wealthy Italian who has enemy he wants
put out Of the way he just gives the gang commission
for doing away with him, Fontana said
1 Six other Italians arrested Fontanas story
and held today suspected of being connected with
murder
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
KING PETER OF SERBIA DEAD

Belgrade, Serbia, Aug. 17.-Pomp and homage which
were denied him during life, will begin to King Peter Of
Serbia at the funeral The king dead after an illness
lasting most Of the summer Regent Alexandria immedi-
ately ordered the whole country into mourning.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
FIRE DESTROYS MANY BUILDINGS

New York Aug. IA million dollar fire started in
wood turning factory, spread through three buildings
finally demolished whole block in Brooklyn, to-day Nine
buildings destroyed
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
DAILY MARKET REPORT

Minneapolis, Mimi, Aug. 17.-No dark northern
to 81 SO No. northern $138 to SLAB corn so to 81
oats ~ SO to % barley Sc to SO "a to 3D.
fax $207 to $500
South ST. Paul, Aug. 17.-Estimated receipts at the
union stock yards today Cattle $780, calves 1700 hogs,
$500; sheep, $500; cvars, 267.
Catte-Beef steers, range, $3.50 to 1925; cows and
hefers range $500 to $780, and cutters
so to S5 butcher bulls range, $500 to $3.50; veal
calves range $500 to $780, stock feeding steers, range
$3.50 to $500.
Hogs-Range, $500 to $3.50
Sheep-Lambs, range, $3.50 to 1915; ewes, range,
s1OO to $4O5; wethers range $3.50 to $685. yearngs.
range, $3.50 to 81. so; bucks range S150 to $3.50
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
Slim saIee New York Pitcher Who Wa
Straw Hat Because the Jinx.

Giants Gliding Slim sal cngng hat
hat that didn't bring bad luck he % an
off"
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
WANT CONTINUATION OF PRESENT WAGES

OMAHA Neb., Aug. denomination of the 8-hour
basic day and present wages included in demands
today by representatives of the packers employees who
met here today The draft of the workers presented
by the union leaders suitable for the present contract
which expires September 15th after which contract
will be drawn up
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
SECOND ARREST IN BOX CAR ROBBER1Es

Devils Lake. Aug. 1.-THE second arrest Of railroad
employees in week for box robberes was made last
night by Detective Gilbert Timboe who obtained CON
fession from Walter Smelser Smeser, who has been
mitted he and Walter Hostrom another switchman had
entered Of merchandise Sunday night Hostrom has
already plead guilty and sentenced to two years the
penitentiary by Judge c. w. Buttz
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
AUTO THIEVES BUSY NEAR DEVILS LAKE

Devils Lake, Aug 17.-A band of auto thieves with a
mania for Cadacs operating in this vicinity, police
believe. ~> 80" -.>."
During the last few nights thieves have broken into
private garages containing Cadacs and stole the cars or
if that was impossible they damaged them.
Last night Fred Traymor local attorney went to get
his car and found it gone together with quantity of
clothing and auto accessories.
The garages of Blanding Fisher, president Of Ramsey
County National Bank and Dr. W. F. Sihler entered
and considerable damage done. Police believe that the
same treves who stole Jess Sowels Cadillac at Hsboro
recently, have transferred to this vicinity.
District Judge Buttz is incting penalties upon
auto thieves Philip Cogswell and S. A. Byrd who
caught stealing given five years each by the
judge ~4..-~ .~,' .#n.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
STATEMENT BY PREMIER DEFERRED

London, Aug 17.-After the discussion Of the Irish
situation today the British cabinet declared that the state
en by Lloyd George that to have been made today
should be deferred.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
DELAY AGREEMENT ON OVERTIME PAY

Chicago Aug. 1.-THE decision of the U. S. railroad
labor board the overtime rate pay and work. has agreed
to delay action on the decision The board announced the
ruling will not for several days due to the delay in
printing it. #
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
F.. R. BILL ORDERED FAvoRABLY REPOR

Washington, Aug. 1.-THE administration on the bill
to extend financial relief to the railroads, ordered
favoraby reported to the senate today by the interstate
commerce committee
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
CHARGED WITH DIsOBEYING LAWS

Washington, Aug. 1.-THE direct charge that the
Erie railroad formed corporation to take the stock
lat Marion Ohio for the purpose Of evang the labor pro-
visions Of the Esch carriers law made today by Rep
resentative Heddeston Of Alabama during session Of
relief bill He said many Of the railroads openly dis
LOBBYING the law and orders Of the railroad labor board
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
KELLY MAKES goth CIRCUIT DRIVE

New York. Aug. 17.-George Kelly of the New York
Giants, hit his Goth home Of the in the first in
ming Of the CncnnatiNew York game today The bases
were full when he made the circuit drive
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
WOMAN JURORS TO DECIDE FATE OF WEN

Fargo Aug. 1.-THE first women jurors acting in
Fargo and possibly in the state will be called into police
court this afternoon to determine the fate Of two negro
wenches who are charged with common prostitution The
trial is scheduled for o'clock before Judge Lay Monsoon
On demand Of the city three Of the six jurors will be
women.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
Sim FEINERS Will NOT
ACCEPT PEACE TERMS

Dublin Aug. 1--WE cannot and will not accept the
British peace terms DeVaera told the Dali Ereann to-
day. In addressing the parliament the president said:
"There seems to be some doubt by the press today,
after speech yesterday to whether we would accept
or reject the British offered by Mr. Lloyd George
There should be doubt any ones mind cannot and
will not behalf of the nation accept these terms
There is an old Indian proverb which says: "Fool me
once shame on you; fool me twice. shame on me" The
Irish people not going to be fooled this time II would
be willing to suggest that the Irish people give good
DEAL rather than to face further troug DeValera con-
tinued.
"There is no emnity felt in the south towards the peo
pie in the north, ready to give them all the safe
guarding they need" -
The Sim Fen president declared that the statement
that Ireland had been offered dominion of home rule con-
tanned two falsehoods: w..
"There would be Ireland just two broken pieces"
he said
"Also Ireland has never been offered the status
as other British domnions" ..- Il.
1--WE will submit the question between Lloyd George
and Ireland to external arbitration" he declared
He declared the Irish people would not finch because
more arme were ordered to this country 1--WE have
emnity towards Great Britain" he said.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1921-08-18
UNION LEADERS AGAINST TRANSFER OF SHOPS

Chicago Aug. 17.-Railroad union leaders here today
were preparing to probe the u S. railroad labor board
aganst the transfer Of the Erie shops at Marion Ohio to
prvate under non-non conditions More than
800 in the union refused to enter the employment Of
the railroad service company Of Marion which form
bankers and business to operate the shops under
these conditions according information received by
Jewel head Of the railroad department