South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-10-23
Society Leaders
MLOndOn Sburn
EdictS of Paris
Partisan Modistes Lose In
terest When Elite Sets
Turn Dressmakers.

LONDON. Oct. 22.-Fashion was
created hitherto for society by the
dressmaker; now the position is re-
versed. for fashion IS today created
by society for, the dressmaker. Lon
don society has gone in for the dress
making business. Leaders Of the
smart set no longer crave for the
Paris model. Openly they wear
clothing "a la Londres' and are not
ashamed of it-boast of it. in fact.
Lady Duff Gordon. the presiding
genius Of "Luciles." has now
worldwide reputation, and the lat
est to invade Hanover square. the
domain where husbands fear to
tread. is Lady (CeciD Bingham,
wife of a famous cavalry general
and daughter Of the late Col. H.
Montgomery-Carr OF kentucky.
There are others. but they modestly
hide under a pseudonym. Others
are engaged by the big drapery
stores in the capacity of advisers.
Were a list to be drawn up of fash
ion advisers in the West End OF
London it would read like a page
from "Debrett's Peerage."
London New Arbiter.
Thus London boasts of being the
arbiter and the purveyor Of fashions
for the universe Of womanklnd. Paris
is now a back number. She needed
her title 10 years ago. The reason
for arls losing ground is that dur
ing the last 10 years she has elect
ed TO revive eastern modes more fit
ted for the harem than the refined
woman's home. or the social circles
OF America Of Great Britain.
This caused a revolt among the
well-dressed Of London, so they took
TO designing their own dresses and
wearing them in preference to the
daring phantasies and Oriental
/ travesties evolved by the Parisians.
Now London is inundated with or
ders from North and South America
Australia, India and other places
which formerly relied on Paris.
Paris has realized this and now
most of her big houses have estab-
lished branches in London to catch
I some Of this diverted business while
1 British houses have opened up stores
in Paris Moreover, French stores
even send their buyers TO London for
attractive styles in well-cut sports
and tailored fashions for sale in
Paris where London Style" 'Drap
/ Anglais," "Drap Scossais" and Cos
tume-Anglais'' for lie Sport" are
| frequent signs in the windows.
Movement Starts.
A great change from the DAYS
when a smartly dressed Englishwo-
man would only consider a fashion
at all possible when it bore the
Partisan label. However. now the
/ change is effected London does not
mean TO stand bile. Already a great
| educational movement has been
started further TO popularize the
London county council, anticipating
the trend of events. has included ar
tistic millinery and dressmaking in
| the educational curriculum in both
F., the elementary and secondary
schools. and graduates from these
establishments are drafted into the
leading business houses.
The wearied seamstress OF Tom
Hood Is a thing Of the past; she is
now a dress artist and commands a
/ big salary. She carries out the de-
/ signs OF the society expert. who in
| turn is assisted by the artist from
| the Chelsea school. Some Of the
! latter are very distinguished mem
/ bers OF the art fraternity, short
/ haired damosels who might wallow
/ in vortevisms, post impressionisms.
cubisms OF Augustus John, Nevison,
Wyndham Lewis and by day exc out
an honest living fashioning gowns.