davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

the width OF tho collar. This gives a
nice proportion and balance and a
much smarter look that a collar OF
one width and vestee OF another.
And the narrower the vestee. the slim
mer the figure looks, OF course. This
perfect proportion OF line IA very mo-
ticoabie IN nockwear accessories OF ex-
elusive character. You observe prob
ably. the beautiful material OF such
neckwear. the hand finish and the
general daintiness. but Il IL the shape
OF the bits OF daintincss and the pro-
portion OF white or cream they make
with the dark background OF the cos
tune that proves their perfect good
taste. such effects are most carefully
studied by French women and the lit
tla Paris shop girl can put on a cheap
collar and achieve dash and chic
that ls the envy OF many a more ex-
pensiveiy dressed American woman. II
n because the French woman has a
knack for effect-for proportion In
dress And proportion, which Is an
other name for line. Is more im-
portant thing than quality OF material.
Speaking OF material have you no.
ticed how much better the fabrics are
al the neckwear counter OF late7 The
pretty bits Of hnery one picks up there
can really be washed and ironed now
without falling 10 pieces Materials
ara better and workmanship is better.
Fabrics no longer part along the hem
stitching. or fray out along picot
edges. And one may now buy a good
looking collar and cuff set that will
iaunder satisfactorily for what a
himsy. sleazy set would have cost a
year ago Prices are coming down In
the shops and It is particularly pleas
ant to shop at the neckwear counter
where al last one seems to be getting
the worth OF ones money.
There are few collars sold all by
themselves. Most collars come IN sets
with cuffs. or with the long narrow
strip OF vestee that you can haste to a
plain net guimpe II you want to wear
the set with a jacket or sweater; or
baste into the front OF a bodice
II the set is to adorn frock. not a
| coat. The most exclusive collars are
OF hand embroidered linen in eyelet
pattern-always in cream tone, not
white. Some Of these collars outline
"a square neck opening and others nave
points that meet in the V neck effect
and below the collar there is frilly
iabot that falls over the bodice front.
when the collar is Of cream emoroid-
cred linen the iahot is OF hand hem
stitched cream linen. finely pleated.
Collars OF cream net and hlet have
frills TO match.
There Is a struggling tendency to-
ward high necks and In Paris high
stocks. Medici collars and close, up
standing pleatings are much seen. A
new waistcoat for sport wear is OF
hemstitched white linen, coming
straight up to the neck and fastening
az the back. The neck is finished with
tall stock OF lavendar linen which
lnnn- n..nr In long ends AZ the front.
Evening journal., 1921-10-08
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H. ZxE ETXLZ/HZTZPC CCEZ1ZZP

coats come in rich colorines. They
are in slipon style with rounded or
V necks and are sleeveless. There
are white handkerchief waistcoats
with fronts daintily frilled and hem
stitched IN sake blue. or in red. These
look well with navy blue tailored suits.
the hemstitched frills giving very
neat. fresh suggestion to the street
costume.
Most women like the waistcoats with
elbow sleeves best because shields may
be basted IN the garment to protect
the lining OF the jacket. One does feel
more completely dressed too. with
something that has sleeves under the
tailored street coat. There Is always
a personal consciousness OF camou-
fiage-no matter how natty ones out.
ward Approximation a sleeveless
guimpe IS worn under street coat.
And with a waistcoat like the pictured
one. with sleeves. one might slip Off
her coat in the privacy OF a friends
living room n the day were insuffer-
ably warm, and cool on a bit without
the undressed feeling that would be
inevitable n the removed coat revealed
a sleeveless undergarment.
The net waistcoats have various
sorts OF collars. Round necklines with
round turned down collars are shown
on the two waistcoats pictured. but
though this style Is charming on
youthful wearers Il Is most trying 10
older women who prefer waistcoats
with the square neck opening, the
long. narrow collar descending at
each side to meet the straight-across
top OF the vestee. A handsome bar
pin is usually set across the vestee
between the points OF the collar; or
a smart. tailored bow OF velvet ribbon
in black or in some vivid shade re-
peatlng the dominant color OF the hat
Evening journal., 1921-10-08
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%SI]IH H2Z>>5fC .Z1S</Z/S>>>ST

heart shapes have gone out OF fashion
and the straight. long bar pin is the
thing now; preferably one OF platinum
with sunken diamonds along its
length.
A very handsome waistcoat model
has the narrow vesteo and long. mar
row collar. OF cream eyelet embroid-
cry with a tiny edge-frin OF cream
Val lace. In the best models the width
OF the vestee. showing between the
fronts OF the bodice or coat, is exactly
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

- HE chief interest at any neck
wear counter these days is the
vestee or guimpe which is shown
- in such numbers and such va
riety OF styles that everything else in
the vicinity is eclipsed. II Is hard 10
tell these new Euimpes from actual
blouses-unless you can get behind
them. For the trimming Is, OF course,
massed where It shows: and the front
and backs are plain as plain can be.
That is the essential difference. and
the only difference between a guimpe
and a full grown blouse; for the
guimpe is often provided with sleeves
that support the elaborate cuffs which
turn up over the untrimmed sleeve
edge OF the outer jacket or bodice.
A regulation blouse nowadays is
trimmed in some way at the back:
either with a yoke or with vertical
tucks. or with some form OF embroid-
cry to match the front.
All the guimpes and yestees go by
the name OF waistcoat now. There
are net waistcoats with sleeves-one
IS pictured. And there are waistcoats
without sleeves and with deliberately
trimmed fronts that show in the open
ing Of a sweater or jacket. But waist
coats they are called. The old-style
waistcoat. severe and mannish and
buttoned in double or single breasted
STYLE is out OF fashion for feminine
wear: new waistcoats OF dainty fabric
and lacy trim slip over the head or
fasten at the back with the least pos
sible number OF snaps.
Waistcoats for wear with early au-
tumn costumes; with tailored suits,
with sport jackets, with sweaters and
with little coat frocks. are OF net. OF
ratine. OF pique, OF batiste and OF linen
in the cobwebby handkerchief weight,
hemstitched and exquisitely trimmed
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

gathered again where they meet the |
wide fur cuff. This coat has an I'M
usual girdle. made OF fawn colored |
silk cord with ornaments OF tho cord
and slender tassels at least twenty-five
inches long that dangle over the skirt
OF the coat when the cord girdle Is
knotted toward the left OF the front
panel
Coat Belts Show Variety
II is an ordinary coat that has
belt OF self material now. Coat belts
are interesting features OF fall fashion
and all sorts OF gay belt effects are
fancied. A Worth coat OF dark brown
velour with collar and cum facings OF
fawn duvetyn has a belt made Of
wooden beads In fawn and blue, and
long bead ornaments fall from the
ends OF the girdle which fastens under
wooden slides. Leather or suede belts
OF very narrow width are used with
some OF the richest velvet coats.
navy blue velours coat with gray
squirrel trimming. by Brandt. has
silver chain Eirdle with dangling silver
ornaments. Some coat belts are em-
broidered. others are covered with
natly applied strips OF braid. In most
cases the belt Is dropped very low;
often quite to the hip. and this IL
especially evident In the redingote
models. The coat may be belted at
the natural waistline but II so, the belt
is broad enough 20 reach well down
toward the hips. and a band OF fur
around its lower edge gives the effect
Of a belt at this point. Narrow sash
belts looped once-over and made OF
/ the coat material are used on some
models A coat OF this sort is of gray
] broadcloth with embroidery In silver
and gray braid as far up as the knee
and all over the sleeve. Collar and
cuffs are OF squirrel and the narrow
sash-belt is tipped with silver tassels.
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

on that peit. one Of the coats pic
tured Is trimmed with the new gray
slynx. A bloused model Of black
velvet with the narrowest OF buckled
belts and draped sleeve effect that
Is particularly graceful new way
Of handling the ordinary straight coat
sleeve to give a draped line under the
arm. The gray slynx collar descends
to the belt line and the coat may be
worn partly qSen or closed tight TO
the throat This Is a practical coat
which will appeal TO many women
more than the elaborate and extreme
styles OF the season.
Circular Style OF Coat Is Graceful
The blue velvet model trimmed with
Persian lamb and embroidered with
black silk, is illustrative OF the fourth
coat style launched by Paris this sea-
son: a style quite contradictory to the
fitted and belted effects but equally
smart and authoritative. The cut Of
this blue velvet coat Is very simple
and the model owes its distinction TO
the richness OF its fabric and trimming
and TO the graceful lines achieved by
the circular cut, the low armhole and
long surplice collar OF fur. From
Charlotte comes another Of these
wrap coats. a model in fawn colored
velvet with surpllce collar and wide
cuffs OF beaver. Panels of the fur run
down the coat from collar line TO hem
al back and front, giving a sumptuous
effect. The velvet sleeves are gathered
into the large armholes and then
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

n \ order 10 keep up with fashion
now every woman needs two coats:
one for rough and ready use, for
n motoring and for stormy days; the
other for dress-up wear with formal
frocks.
The rough and ready coats are
called sport coats and are sold in a
separate part Of the coat department
in most shops. II Is the dressy coat
we are concerned with today and these
coats are as.elegant and as sumptuous
as such garments could possibly be
made. They are OF velvet, OF duvetyn,
OF velours. OF broadcloth and OF
new pressed plush that Is TO be very
fashionable from all indications.
Three models made OF this new coat
material are pictured.
Light Colored Coats very Smart
The dress coats for the coming sea-
son are not in the dark shades that
one is accustomed to see at winters
beginning-not all OF them a. least.
Palest pearl gray and biscuit tan are
noted and there are even pure white
coats trimmed with dark fur. one Of
these is presented on today's page: A
new redingote model with a haring
tunic below a very low belt. The
white coat IS trimmed with bands Of
kolinsky and collar and cuffs are Of
the same polt. In this model also,
one notes the irregular hem which is
as popular in coats as In frocks just
now.
Another OF the pressed plush coats
is in pearl gray, with huge cuffs and
collar Of sable. Here is a different
line: A perfectly nat panel back from
neck TO hem. with the fullness Of the
coat pushed toward the front and con-
trolled by a low belt The fun side
sections sag bit below the panels az
back and front-again the fashionable
irregular hem line. The third coat in
the new fabric is a redingote with the
low belt and a deep cape collar Tor
Incroyable collar II one is true TO
Dfrectoire ideals, and these belted
redingotes follow the Directoire in
huence.)
Paris Selects -Four Coat Styles
The four separate coat styles above
mentioned. and all authoritative
modes for autumn. are: Tho long
straight-line coat with panel back and
belted front; the circular coat hanging
loose from the shoulders; the red
ingote style with a belt placed very
low; and a straight line coat belted
and bloused a bit at the waistline
All these styles are pictured today.
A new way to add fur to a coat ha.
been devised in the redingote Of blacl
pressed plush with bands OF black fox
Long strips OF the fur fall over the
skirt of the coat from tho belt anC
are looped under the edge OF the gar
ment This coat is straight and trim
below the belt but wrap-like above
with very loose raglan sleeves and th'
cape collar crossing in front.
The straight-line coat with pane
back is illustrated in the pearl gral
model trimmed with kolinsky; the cir
cular coat in the graceful black velve
model trimmed with Persian lamb
and the belted and bioused style Fl
two coats, one OF velvet ana the othe
OF velour. Both of these belted coat
have the sumptuous suggestion that (
notable in all the coat models for au
tumn. and one thing that gives thi
effect Is the cut OF the sleeve. Goa
sleeves for the most part are loose an
fall in soft. draped lines. The dolma
sleeve is used. and the raglan sleeve
and circular sleeves set into very larg
armholes with the lower edge gath
Evening journal., 1921-10-08
CUN

with hand-drawn motifs But the net
models are liked best for formal cos
tunes and cream net is almost in
variably used, with creamy lace for
trimming. Printed silk Jersey waist
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

cred where It meets the huge fur cum.
This style IL illustrated In the velours
coat with lynx trimming. The gar
ment hlouses slightly over rather
snug belt and the straight lower sec
tion Is gathered at the beltline. This
Is a very handsome coat OF henna red
velours embroidered in self tone and
in black. The belt Is covered with
black braid and the rich black Of the
lynx fur adds its note OF elegance to
the dark red coat.
Splendid Embroidery on Paris Models
Many Of the coats for autumn are
richly. embroidered and there are vel
vet coats almost covered with en-
broidery OF metal thread. A stunning
coat by Lanvin is OF black velours en-
broidered all oYer-as far down as
the belt-with gray and silver threads.
Collar and cuffs are OF speckled gray
monkey fur-a new pelt; watch for H.
A Jenny coat OF navy blue velvet is
embroidered with cut steel beads. The
belt Is OF silver braid and the blue and
gray coat Is trimmed with the new
gray fur called slynx.
slynx Is the pelt over which Paris is
raving this season. II is a soft, rather
coarse gray fur and is. in fact ordi-
nary woody lamb dyed gray. But It
is extraordinarily smart and Is used
on the most exclusive coats and suits
turned out by Paris couturiers and
undoubtedly will soon leap 20 the in
nated price that overlook humble
squirrel the moment fashion smiled
Evening journal., 1921-10-08

Because OF these straight-topped ves-
tees brooches in round. crescent and
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19

of comparisons, with prices OF 1914
as being taken as 100. This repre-
scented the farm goods as 100 at the
present time, dry goods as PIP, house
furnishings as 273, clothing 1872, fuel
and gas 207, and railroad rates as
l66. Mr.. II. ~ Allen Of the Edison
Moore Company, Mr.. Killburg of
Marshall Field and others believed
that prices would decline with con-
servative buying and quick turnover
at small profit. Mr. Chapman
asked for vote as to the opinion Of
the members as to whether they be-
iieved prices would decline during
he coming six months. Every men,
Der voted that such was his belief
Mrs. Mccain, president of the
Chamber of Commerce at Midland,
invited the group to hold its next
meeting in that city.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19

the meet, with small track team.
Bentley, who won third honors in the
state high meet at East Lansing last
year, is expected to have cary sailing
in the 440-yard dash. Moore, who
failed by little to place IN The mile at
the state meet last year, is expected
to gather in the honors in the dis.
lance event. The balance of the ma
terial on the local squad is new, but
should furnish plenty Of opposition
for the teams from the other schools
Of the county.
Bentley, Olmstead, Elias and Wal
lace are all good in the jumps. Wal
lace and Marshall are showing good
form in the pole vault. In the daghes
Bentley, Wallace and Stearns are ex-
pccted to gather in points. In the
weights George Elias is expected to
count points for the high school.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19

On Wednesday, May II at the
home of Mr.. and Mrs Garrison OF
Grafton avenue, Russell J. Moon and
Miss Lora Smith were united in mar
riage. Rev. Shoufler performed the
ceremony. They viii make their
home near Belding, where the groom
has "a farm.
Charles Watson, Center street, has
just received a patent on matchbox
holder. The device is not Only a very
useful kitchen utensil, but also a
very neat one, and as soon as Mr.
Watson can procure the necessary
machinery he expects to start the
manufacture Of the article in this
city.
Special meetings are to be held at
the Arcadia school house four nights,
beginning with May "a, at 9 p. m.
Mr.. A. Petersen, supt. Of the Sunday
School, announces that Mr.. VIM. y.
Amos, the student evangelist, viii
preach at these meetings. Everyone
in Arcadia township is urged 20 come
as It will surely be worth their while.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19


DR.. j. n. Day, Verne c. Calkins
and Ernest E. Seig are off today for
the brooks and the streams of north
ern Michigan. True sons Of IKE"
Walton, they are unable TO resist
longer the lure of the stream.
The three are starting on one of
the most pretentious fishing trips
that any party from Alma has taken
in some years. Tonight they will be
at Houghton lake where they will re-
main day or two. From Houghton
they'll go to Alma Cottage at Rivre-
view on the Manistee river, for few
days fishing. From there the trio
will make short jump over to the
Pigeon river, and then to the Black
river. After fishing the Black
river, the party will go to Cheboy-
gan, and from there proceed across
he straits into the northern PENN
sula Of the state They will fish the
famous Sucker river near Newberry,
and the Big Two Heart river, also in
the eastern part of that peninsula.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19
Bonus Blanks
Ready Soon

The first order Of application
blanks for the bonuses to be paid to
World War veterans by the state will
)e received by Colonel John S. Ber-
iey, adjutant general of Michigan,
some time next week, and will i'm
nediately be distributed throughout
he state. This first set will be for
he enlisted men in the army service
lonorably discharged; to include pri-
iates, corporals, and sergeants. That
-epresents the greater part of all the
.x-service men.
Col. Bersey said Tuesday afternoon
chat six or seven other kinds of appli-
'ation blanks will be required, none
If which can be printed until after
he first order is completed by the
printer. These other blanks will be
Tor sailors, marines, and various
grades of officers, and to take care
IF special cases where papers have
been lost by the men and other cir
cumstanees prevail. Copy for these
blanks has not yet been submitted to
the state printer, but they will all be
rushed as rapidly as possible.
These blanks will be sent to county
officials, Legion posts and other con-
venient places in the various coun-
ties, townships, cities and villages.
Colonel Bersey says that good
many banks have also offered TO dis
tribute them 10 their customers and
handle the matter throughout for
such ex-service men. This, il is
pointed out, will be an incentive for
the men to deposit their bonuses with
the banks giving that service.
State Treasurer Frank +. German
BEGAN Wednesday to advertise for
bids for the $30,00O,OOO in bonds to
be issued and sold, the proceeds to be
used in paying the soldiers bonuses.
Bids will be received for blocks Of
these securities until June Is. The
bonds will be in $1,000 denomina-
tons, bear 81 per cent interest and
VIII mature in 80 years.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19

high schools Of the county have been
invited and it is expected that there
will be some hot competition before
the honors are decided.
The probabilities are that Ithaca,
ST. Louis, Breckenridge, North Star,
Bannister, Alma and other schools
will be entered in the meeet
II is expected that it will be nee.
essary to hold number of prelim-
inaries for the majority of the events
because Of the number of school boy
athletes who will be entered in the
various events, and for this reason
the meet is expected to be started at
10 a. m. Preliminaries, in so far as
possible, are expected to be held in
the morning, with the finals in the
various events in the afternoon.
The local high school hopes to
make strong bid for the honors of
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19

About June the men will return to
Alma.
Then with Mrs Day, who is also
lover of the rod and reel, DR.. Day
will return to Houghton to bis cot
tage there. During july and August
DIR. and Mrs. Day will tour the north
EN- part of the state, travelling both
peninsulas.
DR.. Day feels that he is reaching
that period in life when a man should
begin to enjoy himself. With suf-
ficient amount of worldly possessions
for his needs he intends to enjoy
himself, before reaching a more adj
vanced age when it is sometimes
hard to secure the enjoyment that
all of US desire.
Above is shown the conveyance
that the party will use enroute to
and from the haunts of the fish 1t
is a real cottage on wheels, built for
DIR. Day by the Maxwell Mfg. Co.
of this city. A new Ford truck
chassis was used to construct the
body on. II is fitted up 10 provide
for everything that may be seeded
on such trip.
Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1921-05-19
nl,lIIlInnIlIl,llulIuluu'lIu,,nlnim,mm
LOCAL NEWS ITEMS
llInIIlIIliilIliIiIIiIIllillllIlIIIiIlIiilIIIim

Baked goods always fresh. Wolver-
inc Dairy.-adv
George Harmon was in Ionia on
business Monday.
II. J. Mclaughlin was in McBain
on business Monday.
You will find the best bread in
Butter Cup wrappers. Optic
A. II. Stone is employed at the
present time in Detroit.
Dinner served today friday from
5 o'clock on at the NJ. +. church.--adv
Mrs. A. Wagner left Monday for
few days visit with relatives and
friends in Detroit. s 80 ~
Charles Grubb left for Benton
Harbor Monday where he has accept
ed a good position. SN ktff ttht IS
DR.. f. G.. Sluyter, osteopathic ply
sidan, State Savings Bank Building.
Alma, both phones. - 57-tf
Watch for our opening. Music and
flowers free. Friday, May 20. De-
Luxe Candy Co.-adv.
Your grocer sells Butternut Bread
and you as one Of his customers
want the best.-00-Sw.
Demonstration Of Detroit Wickless
Vapor Oil Stove Friday and Satur-
day, May 10th and 21st. Glass &
Hannah.-adv
Mrs. Hannah Kock Of Mt. Pleasant
and Mrs. John Honsburg Of Alma Wis
tied Mrs. Rachel Osborne at the Ma
sonic Home Friday
Pies and Cakes made by the Model
Bakery are fair in price, of good
taste and best quality. We invite
inspection of our bakery.-00-sw
Mr.. and Mrs. c. w. Vining of Lake
view spent the week end in this city,
guests at the home of the latter's
brother, J. D. Spinney, and family
Bishop Williams Of Detroit will
confirm class and preach at the st.
Johns Episcopal church Monday
evening, May %, at 1880. All are in
vited to attend and hear this noted
speaker.
Verne Rogers and Ed. Johnston
of Mt. Pleasant, former college base
ball stars, visited Alma friends Sat-
urday and in the afternoon went to
Davis field to see ball game. They
are still at loss to explain what
they did see.
The setting out of two hundred
hard maple trees in the Udelle addi-
ton, in the northwest part of the
city, during the past two weeks, has
added greatly to the beauty of this
subdivision. They were set out under
the direction of Sandell 4 Johnson.