Evening star., 1921-11-27
BY ANNE RIrrENHoUsE.

:: =; :::;'s 4: :: ~: w.: :
bitter.
They want to know what will serve
for the months that demand two weaves
of material, one that is thick Tor the
a:iSet. one that Is thin for the mouse.
Skh long as We continue to oyerheat
our rooms, we cannot retain street
CLOSES when we enter the house. AZ
lsnk as our winters remain what tney
are we cannot wear the same faorcs
under the sky as under the roof. Such
Is the problem. Women do not oo'ec'
unless they have temperaments tnat oe'
mand strict economy Of time as weh as
money In dressing.
Most women. talk as 'muoh OF tneH dit- M
ability to find time to change INTO Ut III
price Of clothes and the conseauss. snt
limitation Of their possessions, In
ouisitiveness is a trait that rema'ie m al, T.,
the nature of woman. but she -. SAs ths
Handicapped ir this postwar era .usv ny I'm in
fact that there is not enough money IN
the world to buy the clothes sne '"si.s.
She must deliberately choose rom
much that is offered. The 'Fulieans''
who again attempt to dominaiee diio, AE a,,ich
lea, would say that deliberation WHICH i
<snta ails limitation is good for ones eous
Maybe We are embarked on SO Huch
. that is good for our souls tnat we ase
quite sure history will -FepeetAlAee0.a -
it did in the Cromwellian GAYS. 10. ,as .as
nooment the stiffness Of Puritanism was
oyerthrown human nature went quite
mad and indulged in clothes ana NOR
ais The wicked continue to read o' the
era with relish.
woman's Limitation in clothes this sea-
son. 1t is the. price, She must decloe
whether she wants. tot wear cheap
clothes that ara In The highest strata
of fashion OF expensive clothesa wnlch
wear them when they shotM have been,
thrown into the. discard. - q.
ZACH woman must choose FOR herself.
t. The manufacturers could not live'if>
they did not supply vast quantities OF
the cheaper grade of clothes which per-
init women of small Incomes to follow
every new fashion and to be the hrst
to discard it.
But there are women who VIII not
dress in such manner. They want some
thing that gets into the picture OF the
hour They DO % no, ,e,otses %sas When w ge skirts
have changed their cut and jackets arr
enlarged into capes
The minds. of inquisitive women turn
to materials today. They ask nun
dred questions OF eaen ,n ,hsir Tunef' confiD aso
dence as to the best thing to buy.
They. discuss it's -wearab4e qualities,
it's ability to- clean.e its tendency 20
soil, it's chances for fematnrg IN
fashion. They know the ca1tiees Of
the American climate. They .canndr
buy clothes with the sureness OF tne
English woman, who realizes 1t is the,
Flanders trenches for her as .taf as
weather goes. and, unlike the Frenen.
temperature Of mild days. wet nights
and drizzling rain to be endured until
the horse chestnut trees begin 10
blooms - 'S~n'%a.-.... -.
discard the problem Of the super
heated house. They have never en-
countered that perplexing condition,
The American. on the other hand'
is entitled to ask these hundred ques-
tions about fabrics and their color
ing, for she realizes she must en-
counter climate in the making, 3udg-
ing it by its caprices. its abnormaii-
ties and it's utter disregard of the
calendar.
The European woman says that one
frock is enough for wenan with
a middle income; the American knows
that one frock will be too hot as
often as it Is too cold. She must have
some diversity to keep up with the
atmosphere. il not with her desire
for variety. She therefore asks what
is the best thing to buy and what
will give the best service. regardless
of French fashion. and without sug-
gesting to her neighbor that she may
be growing dowdy.
The dominant thing brought out by
the autumn collection is the fact that
velvet is to play strong part TINS
season and not only under the electric
light, but under the sunlight. There
is no longer any doubt OF its success
1t will be worn In cheaply made
frocks which will show its poor quail
ities after few days service, but TINS
does not hinder it from moving IN the
best society and demanding a nigh
price for its service :
Velvet should be ambitious. It
was too closely attached to'.royalty
throughout its early career 10 pc
Wiling to step downward in the scale
of fashion without turning maii.
cious There are some who think 1t
should be kept for royalty. but as
this type of mankind is dying out, II
we believe the -exponents OF the new
democracy, what they wear may not
serve as an example; 1t may be taken
up. however, as an amusing Imitation
to an extinct race.
THERE is fashion for white velvet
this winter that is reminiscent
of the throne. 1t is worn as a COM
n1ete gown or wrap with its snow
like surface enhanced by fur. Again
It serves as a background for the
kind of embroidery which the north
ern races brought up to the ice and
snow from the ancient civilizations
of Persia and Egypt. ..-
A white velvet coat trimmed with
triansles OF scarlet. black, yellow
edged with threads of silver strung
through small pearls. makes a gor-
geous coat, especially when edged
with black fur, which is preferred to
There are white velvet Innings to
black velvet capes. thes- kind that
swing from the shoulders at the back
after the manner OF James the First.
The white velvet would not be used
II IL was not intended to show, so 1t
serves an artistic background for
black robed figure silhouetted
against it., -
revived by the milliner for hats: The
ilressmakers saw in this revival a
chance to use this soft, silky fabric for
the deep Carthaginian girdle as well as
the Egyptian triangles they continue to
sprinkle along the edges of some frocks.
The French dressmakers are less tired
of this maneuver than the American.
Possibly because they do not have the
vast quantities of ready-to-wear gar
ments that flood this country whenever
a new fashion makes them secure in
their selling power. 80, ....s-.
There is another weave Of. velvet