The New York herald., 1921-12-04
Tendency of Women Now Is to
Look Like EskimOs in
Street.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

worry more about the price OF
- furs than their shaping and re-
sources.
Are the furriers a bit weary of the
search after novelty by grating and
mingling widely opposing furs? Are
they back to the belief that women
are not so anxious concerning the
subtle and difficult methods of cutting
and strealxing and pointing as they
are of the warmth. the wearing quail
ties and the coloration of the fur gar
ments they choose?
There are women who search for
warmth and others who don't. At
present warmth is the fashion. One
must look like an Eskimo in the open
streets of winters day or night.
The evening wrap of chiffon belongs
10 our mothers day, and the fiimsy
width of silken broadcloth without fur
Is relegated to the fashions of that
generation which is held up TO girls
as the age OF wisdom.
Immediately after the war there came
into the lirnelight materials that might
have been worn in the trenches or in
those damp and clammy houses where
soldiers and canteen workers stayed be-
hind the lines. Whether or not the war
with it's demand. an insistent one, for
health and protection brought into being
these thick Icelandish fabrics the dress
makers won't say. but the doctors
should be happy. They are not. They
say that women are apt to get III
through the weight and thickness of
the wraps they wear. Well, the reform
ers and critics are not intended to be
content: Their occupation would be
gone IL they We're.
Fur Wraps I'm the Ascendency.
There is no lack in the sales of the
cloth wraps that carry great collars and
cuffs of dark or light peltry. but no one
can fail to see the drift toward the fur
cape for evening, alsb the desire for the
short coat of supple fur and the long
cape of thin fur for the street.
There are enough of all these garments
to satisfy differing taste and purses. and
this season there is no law for prece-
dence. No one thing rules. If you like
a certain style, get it,
Among those who follow fashion the
topcoat of rough fabric with fur collar
is considered something that time has
taruished. There is a solderly coat Of
beige kasha duvetyn or kind Of charsois
weave that, guiltless of fur and pulled in
at the waist line with belt OF the ma
teriol, retains n definite mir of fashion,
but IL is only for the young. 1t has the
touch of masculinity that must be
avoided by those over thirty-hve. over
twenty-five, one would amend, If the per-
son has curves and heavy shoulders
Curiously enough, there is n certain
kind OF street. cape OF beige fabric that
holds its own along with this military
coat. but its rivals which belong to the
newor generation are not fashioned with
narrow hens and broad elbow room.
Some one. however, put the mark of
distinction on the whole fur wrap In the
shape OF a full cape or short square
coat.
The Furs That Fashion OTers.
In Paris they made pony skin and
gazelle serve for wraps az well as orna-
mentation. and women looked at the
two heavy furs with perplexity. They
were accustomed to the coarse pony.
bur the soft gazelle was a novelty that
had elements of uncertainty.
The house OF Callot was one of those
using IT, II trimmed brocade froeks.
IL was used for waistcoats and high
colieEH oH NtlNet. lt was fashioned into
flaring coats that reached tho knees.
Pony skin was placed on capes OF
broadcloth and beige kasha and on
coat suits in plain bands, as CUTS and
as spacious pockets Cheruit used Il
on the curious cape collar she placed
on n beige cloth cape with vertical
pleats from shoulder TO hem a cape
which was one of the seasons sue
cesses.
Poiret introduced q new white or light
brown fur which he called borealc.
coming from an ice animal somewhat
like n seal, II might have been the fur
of polar bear. IL certainly looks like
IL and has like amount OF warmth.
Beyond these three novelties the sea-
sonal furs are conventional. No fur
rier scorns that which is well tried and
well known.
Beaver and ormine, molesbn and
kolinsky, squirrel and sable are plenti-
ful. curious recrudescence OF well
marked sable capes has occurred and
one surmises that they may have been