The New York herald., 1921-07-17
As Skirts Lengthen They
Widen-Sunshade and Lace
Mitts Also Coming Back.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

THERE is close link between
Paris and the United States
during the dull season. Every
one feels sure that the inspiration for
new clothes as well as present ones
can be got by keeping the camera
focused on the French.
If we are to believe the dressmakers
It is evident that victorianism is not
dead; it is galvanized into greater ac-
July the States will begin to do in
September. 1t will take us a year to
accept in its entirety French revolu-
ton, and it will take us a year to get
over our feeling of aggravation when
we discover that we must swing back
from our own fashions to theirs just
when we were enjoying the former.
We grumble, but we do 1t. It would
not be possible to be so startlingly sur
prised by the incoming of new fash
ion If women would only regard the
midsummer fashions of France as sig
nihcant. The dressmakers use this
time TO experiment The result is
shown in August.
II seems n waste OF space, a foolish
extravaganza in words. to keep Impress
ing this thing upon the reading public.
One OF the astute judges of fashion in
sists that il is as bad to be six months
before the fashion as six months after
II when cne .s writer or illustrator OF
clothes. He is right Yet one has a
strong feeling that prophecy based on
cfr tha+ CHI he xufn "a lu he
the public desires
Possibly the public wants only to
know what is being worn. Not what
will be worn or what may be worn. II
buys for the hour. 1t builds its birds s
nest OF clothes TO suit present demands.
1t does not look ahead, because 1t may
have a realization of the fact that IL will
want new clothes in a few months and
the future is too hazardous to take
stock in.
Possibly the public Is right. Yet the
reporter of fashions constantly keeps an
eye on the horizon, eagerly telling what
Is to come rather than what has arrived
and is passing. Such Is a reporters life.
Such is her trade.
1t is true that II one tells what Is
being worn in the United States at the
moment o. writing there Is little on
which TO ba. a reasonable vision or the
near future, but II one writes OF what is
being worn in France not only by the
French but by hosts of Americans who
are here buying clothes, spending hours
and large sums of money to get infor-
nation of what will be worn In Septem-
Der, then the mass Of Americans are sure
70 get new IDEAS.
They should be glad OF this chance.
Our women are sufficiently alert to
want to know what is coming.
Chances for Victorian Fashions.
Naturally the French do not refer to
the fashion of the hour as an indication
OF return to victorianism. They refer
to Il as a revival OF the Second Empire.
The Anglo-Saxons are more comfortable
IN their knowledge when they hear the
Anglo Saxon name. This much the
French should remember: That Eugene
of the Second Empire was dressed by
Worth, an Englishman. and she wore
yne clothes that prevailed in the British
Empire.
It is interesting that Worth. the
young successor of the elder designer of
the Second Empire, does not lend himself
With any degree of enthusiasm TO the
caothes which his house made famous on
the Continent.
II IL left TO other designers. especially
Lanvin and PoIret and their satellites, to
insist upon the silhouette that ruled tha
world when two Queens. fast friends
until death. set their mark of approval
upon clothes which the succeeding gen.
erations have stigmatized as hideous.
Hero Is the contrariness OF human
nature: Now that we are about to begin
to wear these clothes we consider them
quite smart and attractive. Victorian
accessories are accepted by the most
daring woman, who. II she were told
year ago that she would wear bonnets
tied under the chin. lace mitts and
shoulder shawis with fringe. would have
raised her eyebrows In derision and usod
q phrase which IL delightful 10 American