Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1921-02-08
WHITE VELVET ON DARK SURFACE
BY ANNE RTTTENHOUsE.

When a change Of season came In
France and America, or rather
change of environment came for those
who lead fashion, the people and the
students thought that fascinating new
fabrics would be offered SO plentifully
that the ancient usage Of blue serge
would be forgotten. Not So Dozens
of frocks built Of this material are
offered.
In France, serge vies with crepe de
chine and taffeta for popularity. 1t
be called twill, gabardine or ANYTHING
else that the manufacturing baptismal
font has given it. but the hoi-pollo1
just go on calling it serge. That's
what they understand. That's what
they ask for when they go forth to
buy.
It is of interest that serge appears
in navy blue as of old. 1t does not
change it's weave or its color to gain
appreciation. It rests securely ana
Serenely on its past. The new Irocks
of it are not Somber, however, as they
do not leave the fabric to work out
its own salvation. The dangerous
terms over most surfaces has spread
to the making of dark blue serge
gowns and suits, but at it's worst 1t is
better than the stuffed red roses,
yellow leaves and immense Jet flowers
that have been companions 10 tnese
gowns in the immediate past.
The new fashion for Bayadere strip
ing, for the semblance of Roman rib
bon, for sunbursts of soutache. works
itself on serge without destroying the
effect of. a good gown, but the exclu-
sive trick of placing pieces of soft
I,.io
deep blue cloth is better than other
methods.
Serge is inclined to harshness.
| Thence comes it's admirable wearing
qualities: therefore the application of
! supple fabrics to its surface softens it
and is like veil to a rough complexion.
The sketch shows the method Of one
French designer. The skirt is knife
pleated and short, the blouse is loosely
adjusted to the figure and held in at
the normal waist line by broad sash;
| these are matters of Importance, you
know, in these weather -vane days.
! The white applications are duvetyne;
| in other frockS they are thick velvet.
| The surface of these pieces is covered
! by fine Soutachlng in dark blue braid
| The belt of deep blue velvet is caught
with a fiat rose holding a Smattering
, of the embroidery.
Mark the sleeves, for they, too, are
| important They are long, of course;
! that feature ceases to cause surprise;
but they give to the amateur an excel
lent idea how to rebuild those uni
versal Spanish sleeves into something
| less awkward, fitting better into the
| picture of the hour.
| In the late autumn certain women
who strenuously objected to the ugly
line above the wrist made by the
| shaping of these bell sleeves, saw an
! instant Improvement in the improvised
| lower sleeve of satin, chiffon or other
| soft fabric, provided 1t was wrinkled,
loose on the forearm and frightened at
| the wrist. The idea has now become a
| fashion.
One is not urged to accept the knife
pleated or box-pleated skirt, for both
| fashions are too universal to be agree
able to the woman who does not wish
| to look factory-made. The youthful
! figure always carries such skirt with
defiance of age or flesh, but when
thickness sets in at the waist or the