New-York tribune., 1921-12-04
Black Still Vogue
Despite Onslaught
By Paris Modistes
French Women Refuse to
Buy Colored Clothes Which
FashionLeadersP Prescribe:
American Shoes Popular

PARIS, Nov. 8 (By Mail) Black re-
mains supreme in the fashion world Of
Paris. Despite severe onslaught by
advocates of color, the supreme council
of style has been forced to retain the
conventional black as the dominant
motif of all fall and winter modes. and
there is every indication that colors,
except IN minor trimming effects, will
not be able to challenge black until
late spring.
Adopted at a time when economy was
the. guiding idea Of all feminine pur-
.hases, black has come to be regarded
as the most becoming color. French
women say it is alone in lending itself
to striking effects.
Dressmakers quietly gathered to-
gether before fall and winter models
were given to the world and tacitly
agreed that colors should have
chance The adoption of black was
hurting them financially. Done black
of two or three dresses Of different
colors.
Women Reply Emphatically "No"
But the French women who are in
dicators of the newest DEVELOPMENTS
in style, said very emphatic "No!"
The demand this fall was for black
inevitable. Crepe Moroccan, velvetine
and perlIaine arc the most popular
materials.
The corset makers. however, have
been slightly more successful in their
efforts to bring the corset. back into
it's own. Dressmakers are insisting
that corsets arc now necessary to give
the "uncorseted look This propa-
ganda has succeeded in some instances,
but most French women, having fought
and won their freedom, are loath. in
actress, ito Jail their bodies again.
There arc four definite features Of
the fall and winter modes: Il very long
waist line, longer circular skirts with
full sides. eccentric sleeves of gay COT
ors and the famous Bateau neck line.
Brick red has been used extensively
as trimming and some green steel orna-
ments for hats, purses, dresses and
even shoes arc the newest thing in noy-
elites.
Kniekerbocker" Shoes Poplar
Door knobs and nailhead effects are
used in making girdles. In the case of
shoes, the usual order Of things has
been reversed and the smarest shoes
in Paris are "knickerbocker" shoes,
with large steel buckles.
These shoes look more like American
shoes than anything ever before worn
by French women, although the French
last is retained. The short, stuhby toe
has disappeared in stylish French foot
wear.
Black again dominates in hats, felt
being the best liked material. Crowns
are much higher, and the fall hats are
so big that they interfere with dancing.
Smaller hats will be worn with fur
coats later in the season.
Circular earrings, usually circle of
jet rebonv within larger circle, are
worn by the NEST dressed women this
fall Novelty shops cannot make them
fast enough. Some women wear very
large ones, almost cannibalistic in
effect
Gay cyolor has its only opportunity
in evening gowns for young girls.
These are made in the brightest of
cclors, but the evening dresses worn by
their mothers and older relatives are
black. The Empire period has given
the inspiration for the youthful even
ing dresses this year, making wearers
look like venerated ancestors. The
skirts are large and full, with hips ex-
tended.