The New York herald., 1921-06-12
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.
THE world is not through with
organdy. It breaks upon the
lmmer like a deluge.

VIZ NOIlu Is not lIlrOuSHe WIFI
organdy. 1t breaks upon the
summer like deluge.
designing frocks of this fabric of the
kind that bring us back to what we
thought hadvanished. How the woman
OF the hour will suit these gowns is
something that interests those who
study human nature.
Such frocks of organdy as the French
have suddenly put into fashion were
once worn by the bellies and beauties"
who strolled to the pump at White
Sulphur Springs and in the corridors
of the vast hotels at Saratoga and on
the lawns of that early Newport which
had little to do with great wealth and
Its struggle for social supremacy.
Probably woman's nature was the
same then as now, but it wore a diff
ferent aspect. Clothes of men and
women may have had something to do
with their manners and customs, and
1t is for this reason that we wonder
how the fashions of those days will
look on the women of this post war
period. Will our new manners fit those
olden frocks?
Do these ruffled skirts of organdy and
taffeta trimmed with organdy, these inn
mense hats and Japanese parasols. the
strapped slipper with light-colored stock
ing mean that a world which is weary of
strife. bloodshed. pestilence. anarchists
ana labor dfsruptions is willing to turn
TO fashions that suggest peaceful paths.
established conditions. restful women, a
life of leisure as a substitute for a life
of turmoil.
The summer will tell
Wide skirts Insist Upon Accent
No one claims novelty for the wide
skirt of this June, for its appearance In
January was stressed and exploited with
the amount of advertisement given to a
movie star. Yet the fact that the wide
skirt becomes more frequent and is en-
phasized by masses OF ruffles is cause
for comment. Woman's attention was
drawn to the widening of skirts through
dark crepe de chine, through taffeta in
pastel shades for evening, and through
Grecian drapery that hung in points but
to-day. at this hour, we are asked to re-
gard with due consideration the same
fashion in a fanciful number of muslin
skirts made In Victorian style. So rem
iniscent are they of certain period that
one looks for lace mitts and green par
rot squawking In q cage.
An interesting fact about these new
ruffled skirts Is the use of organdy
Naturally 1t is a fabric that would first
suggest itself to dressmakers when they
determined upon distended skirts. Taf-
feta Is a fabric they like and Use when
they seek width, but organdy is more
suitable to hot summers and frivolous
afternoons.
1t Is the one summer fabric suggestive
of heat and 19ziness. of round of pleas
ures and life of leisure that lends itself
20 outstanding skirts. Crepe de chine,
voile. chiffon are too clinging TO carry
out this persistent new movement.
Another reason for the choice OF or
CANDY is this belief in the minds of
those who design apparel that it Is time
TO submit to women the proposition that
they return to traditional warm weather
clothes. This would be an abrupt change
for the set of women who, in every coun-
try, strictly follow the fashions They
have taken to themselves the dark thin
gown, usually Opaque. In the cities they
have remained loyal TO such clothes
throughout twelve months of the year.
Made Men and women stare.
One day in May a young woman from
France appeared in the Ritz Palm Court
In New York with white shoes and stock
ings. white net hat and white crepe de
chine gown. Men and women stared at
her as though she were exploiting some
thing frealSish. Twenty years ago she
would have received the same startled
attention IL she had appeared at n lunch
In a fashionable spot wearing a gray
and black flannel tailored suit with
.iat-heeled patent leather pumps and a
rough straw sailor hat wrapped with n
creme de chine crown band. Thus DO
fashions change the public's viewpoint
TO Judge by present indications there
will be many startled eyes In public
places this summer for not only will,
white be worn in the middle OF the cav
in the turmoil of great city, but It
will be OF chiffon, OF thin crepe de chine
OF wolfe. II will be attended by gowns
Of colored organdy, and IL will be
trimmed with fantastic and unusua
touches.
Here are two examples OF what the
smart dressmaker does TO a white gown.
one IS OF chiffon made In one-picce
slip with square sleeves hanging TO the
wrist over the surface chrysanthc-
NUNS are applied with an invisible
stitch. They were cut Of black chiffon
and display all their ragged splend Or.
The round neck and loose sleeves are
edged with black chiffon. the poke bon
net Is of white Milan straw with a black
chiffon scarf run through u, tied IN the
back.
Another gown is OF white and red
dotted voile. The skirt IL made from
two wide founces. There Is a deep hchu
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