Evening star., 1921-12-18
BY ANNE RITrENHoUsE.


A WOMAN will do a. she pleases
~ about hats. That much -
~ certain, no matter how the
miIliners plead and coax and
argue.
II she, the woman, Is stepped In
the tradition that her face will look
better under a wide projecting brim,
she continues to buy that sort. And
the other way around. II she has
grown up in small hats, It is difficult
for her to see the light Of victory In
the other kind
Probably she Is right. The older one
grows, the more one becomes convinced
that individuality, strongly and contdnu-
ously expressed, Is fashion In itself.
one that calls attention and often wins
praise where the weather-cock system
fails. The dressmakers and miuiners
scold those who are too pronounced In
this conviction, but it should be easier
for them to cater instead Of persuade.
for a woman will buy new clothes even
if they are cut on the same pattern
season after season.
There is a doleful tale to tell this
winter in Paris concerning this clock
like regularity of appearing In the same
kind of hat and gown at every function.
There are designers who begin to De-
lieve that their occupation will soon De
gone. if this fixed idea does not get up
rooted by some revolutionary movement.
1t has lasted five years.
The milliners more than the dress
makers have to contend against tran-
ton and individuality in their client.
They merely vary the hat shapes a bit,
insert the belief that new fabric is wise,
change from light to heavy, from pale
10 dark, and let it go at that. ihey
sell more in this way than by running
counter to the convictions OF those VINO
nut bread and butter in their mouths.
X X X X !
TOR this reason, knowing human
L nature, they make hats large and
small for this niidseason that Is upon
us. The American autumn permits
much that is springlike to be worn until
the holiday season approaches, buc
women get restless when the actual
winter sets in, when the housekeeping
is over, children are settled at school.
curtains are up, rigs are down and the
country people have moved into the
city house.
Our women take autumn hard. The
people who make clothes, sensing this,
decided to end up the season at Thanks
giving time with sweeping and impress
sive sales of all they possessed, in order
TO begin new fashions to catch the wom-
EN- who have recovered from the work
and pleasures Of autumn.
The milliners started the new tide
of hats with a fashion they picked up
from the last of the autumn gayeties,
the foot ball games, which was the
use of quills carelesSly stuck in felt
hats. The Princeton-Yale game will
pass into history for more than its
victory over Yale; it will be remem-
bered by the Indian cuills which
hundreds of girls wore to denote
their partiality for one side or the
other.
Fashion said to itself. Here's an
idear' So now we have quilts sticking
through the rough surface of tai
lored hats.
Behind the scene at Princeton,
where the quilts were launched. there
is another gay background remem-
bered by Americans who were in
Paris in September-of a gala night at
Perroquet, the parrot-painted restau-
rant where one heard more English
than French, where negroes sang as
they orchestrated, where the cream
of the gay world came to be amused.
Bright short quills were the outlet of
much of the gayety. They were
passed by the walters and thrown by
the guests at stranger and friend.
They softly stuck wherever they hit,
those quills, and women danced in
paraphernalia that resembled the
war dress of Indians. There were
other kinds of Indians there that
night-the crown prince and prin-
cess from kapurthala.
X X X *
A T one table were officers from the
\ Rhine in Paris with Gen. PERISH
ing. a giant Texan. who was told
that the girl with pearls as big as
hard-boiled eggs was the crown prin-
cess, measured the distance between
them, then rose to throw red quills