Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1921-07-26

lts acquisition was Lne OupcOme VI u.o
cussion among certain argumentntive club
men on gastronomy, past and present.
The dsputants were divided on the merits
Of cookery today and that of 1oO or 2OO
years ago.
1t finally was agreed. after evidence was
submitted, that while culinary science today
has advanced, particularly as to knowi-
edge of food values and the chemistry of this
department of our common life, the older
civilization was not fur behind our own in
the preparation of rich, appctizing and
savory dishes.
TT WAS disclosed during the discussion
i that one of the disputants possessed, in
the original binding, a collection OF recipes
for English dishes of worth and desire bear
ing the date III.
subsequent perusal of them most ef-
fectually dsposes Of any idea that the art
of preparing excellent food during the last
half OF the eighteenth century was either
crude, unappetizing or limited in the range
of ingredients.
On the contrary, It is apparent that the
dishes Of that time were rich. ample and,
from our standpoint, decidedly unusual.
They were at least suited to the palate
and digestion of the bon vivants Of that far
period.
Some Of them are impossible of prepara-
ton in these degenerate days, except to
the favored few.
Prohibition has put its gypsy curse on
them.
Moreover, many of the ingredients are lost
or lacking now, at least as they were
known then.
pass along a few of these gems, with
apologies to Mrs. Wilson, for the benefit of
those choice spirits who delight in gustatory
novelties
TyHE trite expression. First catch your
hare" has its derivation variously
explained.
The accepted version is that an ancient
recipe for potting n hare began with this
innne and childish witticism.
The old volume in my possession solves
the riddle.
In the use of an expression for roasting
a hare these words printed on following
paper in old fashioned type with the long
SIS" appear: when you have cased
your hare. etc.
Some one. some time in the last 100 years.
evidently mistook that word ''cased'
(skinned) with its old style long "s' az
misprint, and gave it new spelling and n
consequent fool meaning.
At least that is the presumption. As
presumption it is as good as any other
theory advanced on the subject.
Following is the remainder of the formula
of III, in the original language and pune
tuatton, for roasting hare:
CA HARE-How to roast it.
n when you have cased your hare, fill
the body Of it with pudding composed of
the following ingredients. Suet, four
| ounces the crumb Of bread the same
| quantity; two eggs, pepper. salt: nutmeg,
| lemon peel, parsley and thyme shred very
| fine. Butter will do instead Of suet, and
some persons shred an anchovy in the stuff
| ing Baste with new milk. and add a little
| butter when it is near done. An hour and
a half roasts n modern hare. The best sauce
is good gravy; but sometimes cream and
| melted butter is used as sauce, and some
| times currant jelly instead Of the butter"
One of the features of modern English
| cookery in disfavor with Americans who
have sampled it is the practice of hanging"
| fowl, leg of mutton or haunch of venison.
| This means exposure TO the air until It
becomes ''high" in odor, though improved
| in tenderness.
Ono gets the idea from the following
recipe:
"Mutton-To roast it vcnson fashion
Get large and very fat leg of mutton.
cut with part of the loin to it so as to
shape it like haunch. Let it hang from
ten to twenty days. according to the weather
Roast it well and serve it up with rich
gravy and currant jelly. Some persons
baste it with red wine, and butter: all the
kept a week and roasted like haunch is
very fine"
VOLSTEAD spilled the beans for the
V present day production of these dishes.
"FRlTTERS-to make fine ones.
Take four eggs; beat them well in Il
little brandy, mixed with ginger and nut
meg. and add half pint of cream. Chop
some golden pippins and mix the whole with
-four. II currants are added the fritters
are still richer. They must be fried in
butter
'PANCAKES--To make them.
ITO two pounds of -four, put full quart
of milk, six eggs. little strong ale, a glass
| of hrnp "a nd col
Fry them of light brown, in a very little
lard or good dripping
The piece dc resistance of the brood of
batter cakes. think. Is the following:
! FINE PANCAKES.--To make them.
ITO II little -four add half pint OF
mountain or white wine, half pint Of
cream.-Thc yolks of twelve eggs beat fine
half II pound of fine sugar, some nutmeg,
mace, beaten cinnamon, and a little salt.
TIsse must be fried in fine butter.
CAME >of all kinds and domestic fowl in
" variety figure largely on every bill
of fare even those Of little pretensions
Here are two Of them:
"DUCKS-To boil them the French way
Lard them. half rOast them, then put
them into large earthen pipkin with halt
a pint of red wine. and Il pint Of good gravy
with some chestnuts first roasted anG
peeled, half pint of oysters bearded. ant
the LIQUOR drained from them. two onions
|
some ginger beat fine all the crust Of
french roll grated. cover all close and lei
it simmer for half an hour over slow
fire"
"PIGEONS-To stew them.
prepare a seasoning of pepper, salt
cloves, mace, and sweet herbs wrap all thi,
in butter and put it in their bellies anC
half roast them: then put them into 1
stew pan. with quart of good gravy,
little white wine. some pichled mushrooms
few pepprrCorns three or four blades O
mace, bit Of lemon peel, bunch Of swec
herbs hit Of onion, and some oysters
picked. When your pigeons are propcrl,
stCwed, thicken up with butter and yolks o
eggs and garnish with lemon
Tn THIS old chronicle of dainty dshe
/ there is a paucity of directions for tn
preparntioa. of soups and salads.
Common" vegetables are omitted, largely
I presume. for the reason assigned In tn
| vi