The New York herald., 1921-10-02

the Restaurant "L'Escargot DOR but
the embroidery is much smarter than II
sounds, and does not In the least sug-
gest food.
Another new embroidery is beads on
lace. There IL nothing new about the
ordinary beaded embroidery but the
beads on the lace offer a new combina-
tion. And the nickel embroidery Is also
novelty. Little nickel bullets and nat
pieces OF the metal In discs trim both
dresses and hats.
With the waist line at tho hips, atten-
ton Is Immediately called to the belt.
Chased metal belts are a novelty. and all
the dresSmakers are using them In great
profusion. Patou makes a great spe-
cialty Of them, and there is dash of
the chased metal In buckles or orna-
ments in practically every one OF his
models Many of the belts look as II
they had come from q blacksmith's shop.
with all sorts of queer things that could
be called tools as well as anything else
dangling from them. There Is life
belt and door knob belt The former
Is nothing more than an inflated roll
worn around tho hips, which makes you
look as II you could not sink II you
tried.
The door knob belt has big nickel
o
should be q utton to push before enter
ing. Then there Is bumper belt which
reminds you of the bumpers on q small
boat to keep It from knockirg against a
pier. These belts mirht become popular
for dancing frocks. especially II the
dancer expects to be on crowded floor.
Thes there are the broad patent leather
belts which are worn around the hips.
They are sometimes trimmed In metal
knobs, but are often plain tcallot shows
then with her serge street f:oclxs. They
are six or reven In hes wide and are
nothing more than broad ttomachers.
The dull leather belts. studded with
steel nail heads. are smart Fur n ex-
tensively used In these hip CIRCLES either
q broad band Of fur or narrow bands
on q contrasting cloth. All there are
numerous other girdles that might make
an old dress look new. Many of the
smartest models are simple straight one
piece dresses. with no trimming other
than an embroidered rirdle worn around
the hips.
AS to tho new tissues. ths quilted
fabrics probably stand OFT as the
greatest novelties. TIE mater sses were
shown for the first time tome years
ago, but the PRESENT mode for the quilted
effects Is a little different Panne Is
quilted by m Ichine in metsi threads and
II makes q very effective coat Chanel
shows one Of this fabric IL tlack and
Reree shows one In Drown. ard both ara
smart. The "zenana" of longing robe
fame has been revived and embroidered
and used to increase the interest IN
quilted fabr'ca
The Paris dressmaidng world L. being
invaded by the Russian aristocracy and
the Americans seem to find 1t highly
amusing to shop "chez la Princesse Bar
atoff' or chez la Princesse vladimir
Schakhovskoy or the Countess Some-
Other -Unpronouncab ble-Name. The very
smartest thing Russian Princess can
do these days is to open up shop In
Paris, and IL she has not the money to
equip a shop OF her own 1t Is considered
Just as smart to be q vendeuse in some
other xshop.
Chhfnel has recently opened millinery
department with a Russian Countess In
charge and Countess Annenkoff fuses
with hats with as much grace as the
most experienced modiste in Paris.
The Princess Baratoff has most at
tractive little shop at 80 Rue Boissy
d'Anglas and Is full fedged dress
maker. The Princess vladimir Schak-
hovskoy has q shop In Versailles and
sells Russian embroideriee. 1t Is not at
all the unusual thing to find that your
yendeuso at most any Of the big Dress
making establishments Is Of the Russian
nobility and asked for the position
through the fact that she was formerly
star client OF the house.