Evening star., 1921-05-29
RlTTENOUE Leading Fashion Takes Up
"A ofh Season Are Not id and No Certain
Skirt and Contributing Fos Are Re-
the Founces
HaveB Accented

son they show their ability to 40 ~:
Each day brings up a new idea Each
woman seems to find something that
no one else possesses. The dress
makers have thrown jumole OF
lovely things on the market; the
world is scrambling for them.
Let's gather up few or the saien'
fashions and get them sharply photo
graphed in the mind as June begins.
She who knows what has been &C
cepted and what has been refused mas
some chance Of spending the summer
next three months and wait until
September to take up new battle OF
newer fashions.
rERE is the truth about skirts: No
IL one style prevails There 10 a
fashionable tendency to cut them long
in evening gowns: only the youns ac-
cept the extra short skirt.
Those who do not like a heavy fab
ric reaching nearly to the ankles hnd
it agreeable to lengthen the over
drapery and cut it in irregular lines
at the hem Some Of the tulle and
chiffon draperies are ten and twelve
inches longer than the satin or tar
feta skirt. This is graceful com
skirt. 1t relieves one from @rct
decision.
Skirts for the street are short. but
they do not aspire to the knees as
they did last winter. They are about
twelve inches from the ground on
Young women and ten on oidsr Won %
en- Dressmakers have persuaded their
patrons to study the lines Of the figure
before deciding on the length OF skirt
Flat hips and slim legs permit short
skirts on a middle-aged woman II she
has a youthful buoyancy Of carriage:
large hips and thick ankles demand
a longer skirt, one with sufhcfent FULL
ness to balance the bulk Of the figure.
There is no difference between the
length Of the coat suit and the one
piece frock when both are intended
for street wear.
The outstanding feature Of the
early season is the widespread popu-
returned to fashion owe night. 1t is
made of wool jersey. of thin home
spun, Of tweed, rarely Of serge and
never of satin, when it is intended
for the street. Summer suits are
made OF Canton crepe and taffeta.
abandoned. The French idea Of the
war suit is accepted. which. after all.
was the original American idea OF
proper street suit. Those who do not
like the rough surfaced materials
take up tricotine and covert cloth.
The latter is strongly sponsored by
some of the best tailoring houses. 1t
is an ancient and honorable fabric.
this covert cloth, and the last genera
ton looked very smart indeed in it.
especially when it was made into sep
arate jackets for dark skirts. This is
another revival along with much that
we have taken from the family album.
The details Of the new coats are
not perplexing. The costume is SIM
plified in accordance with masculine
fashion. The skirt is narrow, has
seam at each side and a few gathers
at the back to give it a graceful swing
over the end Of the spine. The coat
rarely fastens; il it does. the buttons
are below the chest. 1t has long. mar
row revers: a belt is optional. The
really smart type of coat is shorter
than finger-length. has no belt. is cut
on square lines with a slight hare in
the back.
The choice Of blouses is not limited
Those who like white wash muslin
adopt it. Those who prefer silk jer-
sey. georgette. crepe de chine over
blouses, wear them.
The neck line is severe. The collar
Of the blouse does not come over the
collar Of the coat The latter carries
it's own collar il the wearer feels that
her neck has not sufficient youth to
stand the line OF cloth against it. Or