The New York herald., 1921-09-25
Concerted Movement Against
Dark Raimcnt q Feature Of
August Collections.
by ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

IN LAIN Is oeao. Long Ive coiorss
* Such is the Interpretation that
- might be given to the cry OF
the dressmakers.
The concerted movement for colored
clothes and the comment caused by an
all black costume were the two notice.
able features of the August collections.
When the American commissioners
departed on the fastest liners that left
France at the end of August in order
TO open the American season In time
for the buyers from the States who
assemble in New York they carried
with them a strong belief that the
reign OF black was over. AS the Sep
tember collections at the French
houses were OF more importance to
residents OF Paris because they were
arranged for the civilian and not for
the commercialist, 1t Is interesting t.
know that these collections also en-
phasized the passing OF black.
There are few designers who show
black costumes cut after the fashion
of those that have, been worn for two
years. They Insist that the French
woman IS not ready to so into colors;
that she has not the money to permit
herself to depart from the economy
of black. Not that the buying OF black
begins In economy: far from It: for
only the best quality Of black fabrics
are worth the purchasing. Where
economy begins is in the midservice Of
black clothes. Every woman knows
that the assembling OF accessories to
each co,ored gown is where the genu-
Inc expense must be met in the ward
robe: 1t is In the assembling of hats
wear, of fur and wraps that the Leak
age Of money occurs.
Choice or Color Saves Money.
BY the same reckoning the choice OF
one color to run throughout the costume
saves money. When q woman Is an
amateur in the choice of clothes the
choice of one color often averts disaster.
When the French woman decided to
choose black as the leading color OF the
hour the Americans followed suit. They
Invariably do. They do not follow the
making of French clothes as slavishly as
they once did. but they take French in
spiraton as their own. This Is well.
Paris has given much OF its life to do
ing the thing for which It has a supreme
talent, and America, being a clever,
canny ambitious country, is able TO pay
the price for the best and has the
knowledge that carries II to the best
market
The French women win continue 10
wear that type OF black costume which
is the most conspicuous kind they have
invented for decades. Yet that does
not argue that the costume has not
passed into second place. IL has. The
introduction of colors by the Paris de-
signers the almost complete absence
Of the black costumes at Deauville
vichy. and Evaln les Bains show that
the winter fashion Is blowing from a
new quarter.
The colors In the new gowns prove
that the pendulum has swung far TO the
ether side. Sunrise and sunset, the de-
sert and the Orient, have contributed
Inspiration. There Is az insistence upon
red. that light. brilliant red that one
aces in the geraniuns planted In formal
rb,ys In the garden OF the Trianon at
Versailles Yesterday afternoon Wen
known American dressnaker was BEND
ing over these glorious flowers. Some
ona asked her lf she had knowledge OF
hardening. She answered that she knew
nothing OF flowers. but she was inter
ested In seeing that type or geraniuin
which represented the new color IN the
gowns she had bought.
There Ia also Vatican red which
lean Patou uses In velvet evening gowns
cut on simple lines with the drarery that
"a the despair of the amateur. This same
designer uses that tone Of red Tor tne
odd Moorish trimming he puts on tne
surface OF gowns and wraps. II Is
difficult red to wear. IL ls beautifui
red TO see. It's introduction Is rebellion
against black
No Falling on In beige.
rnero IA no falling off in beige, but
the mo = beige has a curious pink quality
~ N aurreative OF the kind OF marble
snrnetineg used for lovely houses IN
T.,,rop~. This underlying tone or PINK
Ynekea beige exceedingly becoming 70
tsc average face. It does not deaden
tha akin II carries a certain warmth
ana rraciousness with II. There ~ little
dark green, only flicker OF purple; no
dark gray, nc emphasis laid on lsnt
grey. no widespread acceptance OF brown.
what are the others. then? the public
may well ask. WE'LL there Is new type
which ia called Madeleine blue. II has
somewhat tho tone OF powder. IL APP
peeara 20 be mixture Of green and blue
with dash of gray X was invented
for the house OF Madeleine Ct Madeleine.
snd carrfea the name for that reason.
T,hiu house, which - s-aAibiting re-