The New York herald., 1921-12-18

| "A about hats. That much is
\ certain, no matter how the
milliners plead and coax and argue.
/ II she, the woman, is STEPPED in the
! tradition that her face will look bet
ter under wide projecting brim sh
continues to buy that sort. And the
other way around. If she has grown
up in small hats it is difficult for her
to see the light Of victory in the other
kind.
May be she is right. The older one
grows the more one becomes con-
vinced that individuality. strongly and
continuously expressed, is q fashion
In itself, one that calls attention and
often wins praise where the weather.
cock system fails. The dressmakers
and milliners scold those who are too
pronounced In this conviction. but 1t
should be easier for them TO cater in
stead of persuade, for a woman Will
buy new clothes even II they are cut
OH the same pattern season after sea-
son.
There is doleful tale to tell this
winter In Paris concerning this clock
like regularity of appearing in the
same kind of hat and gown at every
function. There are designers who
begin to believe that their occupation
will soon be gone, If this fixed idea
does not get uprooted by some revo-
| utionary movement. 1t has lasted
five years.
The milliners more than the dress
makers have to contend against tradi-
1 s,,lf f,, haf 11innt
They merely vary the hat shapes a
bit. insert the belief that new fabric
Is wise. change from light to heavy,
from pale to dark, and let it go at
that. They sell more in this way than
by running counter to the convictions
OF those who put bread and butter
! in their mouths.
For this reason, knowing human
| nature. they make hats large and small
| for this mid-soason that is upon us. The
American autumn permits much that Is
| springlike to be worn until the holiday
season approaches, but women get rest
less when the actual winter sets in, when
the housecleaning is over. child, en- are
settled at school, curtains are up. rugs
are down and the country people have
moved into the city house.
Princeton Football Brings Quflls.
Our women take autumn hard. The
| reople who make clothes. sensing this
decided TO end up the season at Thanks
giving time with sweeping and impress
sive sales of all they possessed, In order
! to begin new fashions to catch the
women who have recovered from the
work and pleasures Of autumn.
The milliners started the new ttde OF
hats with fashion they picked UP from
ehe last Of the autumn gayeties. the
football games, which was the use OF
quills carelessly stuck in felt hats. The
Princeton Yale game will pass into his
tory for more than its victory over Yale;
it will be remembered by the Indian
quills which hundreds Of girls wore to
denote their partially for one side or
the other.
Fashion said to itself "here's an idea"
so now we have quills sticking through
the rough surface of tailored hats.
Behind the scene at Princeton. where
the quilts were launched. there Is another
gay background remembered by Amer
leans who we're In Paris In September Of
gala night at Perroquet. the parrot
painted restaurant where one heard
moro English than French. where
negroes sang as they orchestrated. where
the cream OF the gay world came to be
amused. Bright, short qullls were the
outet of much OF the Eayety. They
were passed by the walters and thrown
by the guests at stranger and friend.
They softly stuck wherever they hit.
those quills. and women danced in para
phernaiia that resembled the war dress
Of Indians. There were other kinds OF
Indians there that nirht--the Crown
Prince and Princess from Kapurthala.
At one table were officers from the
Rhine In Paris with Gen. Pershing. A
giant TEXAN, who was told that the girl
with pearls ms big as hard boiled eggs
was tie Crown Princess. measured the
distance between them, then rose 20
throw red quills nj her hair. Don't do
tha'v said tho hostess. "She might not
understand. She's an Indian" We'll"
he answered, that's all right. I'm IN
American" And straight across that
long distance went the auills She
doS~ed. but they caught her. His fellow
soldiers rose. Go to II. Texas you are
the champion pitcher of the Rhine team.
Again-again." The crowd caught the
spirit Of the maneuvre. Tho little Crown
Princess, seeing the uniform OF On Amer
lean soldier. rose 70 battle and tried her
best but the quilts from our champion
went straight to their mark every time.
she looked like a chicken when he had
finished.
Let tho idea sink into the rnls1s Of