The New York herald., 1921-10-09


Lanvin insists that hats with
snail shells are correct; Cheruit
discards underskirts for evening gowns
and replaces them with straight trou-
sers; Callot says 1t is quite wise to
take off ones sleeves when entering
the house or to wear them as brace
lets: the Madeleines tell their patrons
to extend their cloaks to the hat in
the back; Molyneux says that the
dignity and decolletage of Alexandrian
England Is best for draped frocks for
evening: Patou, like Franklin. draws
lightning from the skies for his froclxs.
and yet there are women who say
there is nothing new in clothes In
Paris.
Which reminds one Of the Anzac who
was asked to show his wound in the
chest to an American woman. After
she had examined the tiny hole made
by the bullet that had bored It's way
through she said: "Oh, thought 1t
would be a large, ghastly wound"
Good Lord" said the Anzac, "how
much these American women expect! I"
So say the French couturiers and
their sisters this season.
The Patter About the Pants.
Those square trousers are stimu-
lating the imagination of women.
Even sedate Baltimore girl is think
ing of astonishing her dancing class
by appearing In such costumery.
The house of Cheruit on the Place
Vendome. which sponsors this inno-
vation, has long been associated with
conservatism, probably not as much
so as the house Of Worth, yet the best
French women go there; and one finds
there things that are expressive of
fine French taste rather than those
brave exploits in fabrics often done to
catch the American dollar. or the
francs of those who must be In the
limelight in Paris or their occupation
Is gone.
When this house advocates trousers
as substitutes for underskirts of silk
beneath an evening gown of tulle, one
feels that the time has come to regard
trousers as o part of the new equipment
OF women. We have been accused
throughout the ages of wearing the
pants" Now we will make the saying
actual as well as figurative.
Cheruit makes no attempt to conceal
these straight trousers by using opaque
cloth over them. They are easily per-
ceptibie through outspreading layers OF
colored tulle or through the side open
ings of brilliant brocade frocks. The
idea behind the fashion In convenience,
for II women will dance and IL they
won't wear short skirts--at least, In
Paris--then let them substitute for the
knee length petticoat a divided under
skirt that reaches to the ankles. These
trousers are dark In color. opaque OF
fabric untrlmmed. They are as wide
as the average underslip which women
have worn for years beneath evening
gowns: they are divided straight from
hens 10 hips. The women say they are
the best invention yet for dancing.
Cailot makes them of black lace, put
those OF Cheruit are more sedate.
II You Eat snaiIs Save tho Shells.
There was a lovely lady at Deauville
who appeared with tiny shells spread
over the upturned brim OF her Russian
hat and catching the drapery OF q
mauye chiffon frock. Onlookers thought
Il was merely bit Of Deauviile mad
ness AT a place where women carry
parrots on their wrists and are followed
by little monkeys who should wear the
pea green Jackets OF organ grinder days,
whore men wear blue velvet kimonas In
the lobbies of the hotels on their way
TO the beach. barely Disgusting their
loin cloths of green and yellow no one
attempts 10 credit seriousness as
quality among those who put on what
ever creates a sensation.
but this woman's trick Of wearing
dozens of snail shells was not In
dividuaI caprice. II was proved later
In the season that the distinguished
house Of Lanvin sponsored the Idea.
The hats of this designer are covered
with snail shells, and huge placuues
Of them are placed on eoft drapcry at
the hips You know the shape OF these
tiny bits OF shell. don't your There Is
| nothing gross or dstasteful about their
quality or color. They are graceful and
full Of .shlmmering light after they are
polished. SO the hat brim appears to
be brocadcd with pearls
The hat that Lanvin sponsors Is the
exact shape of the Russian peasant one.
with round. low. crown. q brim turned