The Washington herald., 1921-03-27

also accounts OF the wonderful heAddresses
for which Mrs. Madison was noted. At the
inaugural ball in 1900 she is described as
wearing a magnificent turban from Paris,
with bird Of paradise plumes," and on an
other occasion, "a crimson cap that almost
hid her forehead, but which became her
extremely, reminding one of a crown from
its brilliant appearance, ccntrasted with the
white satin folds and jet black curls.''
COMPARED with Mrs. washington's and
~ Mrs. Madison's gowns, the gown Of Mrs.
Abigail Adams, wife of the second President
and the first mistress who lived in the White
House, is almost puritanical in its sim
plicity And, yet, it was worn by Mrs.
Adams when she accompanied the President
on his mission to the Court of st. James
As Jefferson entered the White House q
widower, his daughter, Mrs. Martha Ran
dolph, wife of Governor Randolph of vir-
ginia, acted as his hostess. Mrs. Madison,
however, as wife of secretary Of state, was
ranking First Lady and always presided on
state occasions. "Jeffersonian simplicity"
prevailed all during the administration and
was reflected in the gowns. That Of Mrs.
Randolph shown in the exhibit is character
istic of this simplicity. 1t is of white lace
over pink, made with short, gathered skirt.
Over the shoulders is draped handsome
India shawl-black with mixed tan border.
This shawl is looped with a tassel at the back
Of the neck and falls to the end q the skirt
Next to the figure of Mrs. Monroe, wife
Of the author of the Monroe Doctrine and
fifth President Of the United States, in her
heavy white silk sacque dress brocaded in
rose, with quaint putfed roses running down
the front panels Of the skirt, stands her
youngest daughter, Maria Hester, the first
White House bride. She was married to her
cousin and fathers secretary, Samuel
Lawrence Gouverneur, in February, 1870,
before the necessary funds had been secured
to complete the decoration Of the East Room.
Her wedding gown is shown as being Of pale
blue taffeta, embroidered in straw. Sprays
of gold wheat decorate the founced, draped
skirt, and the tight, pointed bodice.
watteau plat swings gracefully from the
back and is caught up in the hustle drapery
of the skirt.
The other bridal costume In the exhibit
10 that Of Miss Harriet Lane, the beautiful
r;ace Of the bachelor President, Mr.. Buch-
ar,n who presided over the Executive Man
s;or during his incumbency and made the
.dr,;nistration one of the most brilliant in
h;.,orv The gown in which she married
uonrr Eliot Johnston is of ivory moire silk,
...;,h Aowing train. The bottom of the skirt
:. scs,,oped in square shaped scallops,
.srourb which peep rufaes Of heavy VAL
a,.;snnes lace. The bodice is Of tulle and
I.ce. cut low and deeply pointed. A hand
10
from the shoulder.
P.rhaps one of the most regal gowns In
tho collection is that belonging to Mrs.
sarah Angelica van Buren, daughter in
I.w Of President van Buren. This is Of
midnight blue velvet, with long, sweeping
train. The tight, pointed bodice Is cut low,
with no sleeves. The severity Of the gown
Is relieved by a soft lace fichu which falls
over the shoulders In points, and to the
ends of the basque in back and front. The
hair is dressed in curls, with Q crown Of
white feathers.
Mrs. Julia Gardiner Tyler, second wife cf
President Tyler, presents a striking figure.
Tall and slender, she sets of well q cream
coIored gauze, with border design of richly
colored flowers, the skirt made over hoops
with three tiers Of rufies. The tight fitting
basque has no sleeves and Is cut just to fall
of the shoulders, over which Is thrown the
usual lace scarf-so much q part Of the old
fashioned toilette.
Mrs. James x. Polk's gown is Worth
creation Of blue brocaded silk, made with
pointed basque, short puff sleeves and demi-
trained skirt. An odd note Is the front let
in panel of the skirt, decorated on either side