Evening star., 1921-11-06
NNE RTTENOUSE Writing From Fashion Change Was Made
% and That Women Must Abide by French De-
snePas Of the HobbeIh Short Wrap PopuarU of Satin and
Coat and Cape One-Evenine Capes

salt who are we'll versed in tho
intricate complexities Of changing
fashion, therefore she dismisses man
as critic of fashion and tries to
keep him pleased as a lover Of what
is attractive.
II all women were to accept this
philosophy without doubts, they
would have an easy road down the
path of conquest.
Whoever has read with a careful
eye the description of clothes worn
by the heroine of a mans novel will
see deep into the heart Of man as
with magnifying glass. The white
muslin. the hair parted in the middle
with low knot at the back and a
red rose at the waist. is the eternal
expression Of their belief in the way
women should be dressed
A man says: How pretty you look
tonight: that's a mighty becoming
gown you've got on"
A woman says: Are they wearing
the waistline as low as that?"
** X
THIS cutting off Of wrap to make
1t fashionable is not as easy as it
sounds. After one eliminates the
tightness of the hem there is the
neckline to consider.
Wraps go straight ito the chin
these days. That wonderfully at
tractive movement of fur or material
called the surplice collar which en-
veloped the shoulders Of women last
year mas been replaced by a straight.
high collar of fur that fastens at the
chin.
How will a woman arrange this
neckline? Again she will cry: "Woe
is me! 1t is easier to cut off the
ttrr1 ~
to ripple freely around the knees
than it is to fill in the V-shaped
neckline.
If economy is the watchword there
is a piece Of advice to be given to
woman on the subject Of this "
can be lifted and the opening filled
in with tiny vest effect Of the ma
terial Of the wrap or Of the fur. The
immense high collar. rolling back on
be fashioned also Of the fur or the
cloth.
OF course. this requires work The
| coat may be worth it or it may not.
Each woman is her own judge and
! jury in that case.
! Doucet has a heavy black satin coat
| which is trimmed with monkey fur.
| for this type of fur continues in
fashion in London as we'll as Paris
and was exploited in the new wraps
| at Shc dutuuii races dl LOHSCHdlnpS
exactly as though it were new
| fashion.
Doucet's wrap has a curious move
| ment to it. The hem is gathered to
| the lining and runs in a long. zigzag
| line from left to right. At the right
| it reaches to the wrist, at the left 1t
| drops to the hem Of the skirt. 1t
fastens straight up the front and is
| finished at the neck with q wide, up
| standing collar of monkey.
| Rodier,s black silk broadcloth, also
J the fabric known as perllaine, are
both used for the average wrap and
velvet is chosen for capes that are
to see service in the afternoon and
evening.
Callot advises a plain velvet cape
| in any color for the evening, which
may serve for afternoon gayeties as
| we'll. This house does not offer the
cape to those who have the money to
buy gorgeous things Of brocade and
fur. but it is offered to those patrons
who have not much money to spend,
yet who insist upon doing the right
thing in clothes.
|ALLOT'S advice is for a midnight
bNle velvet cape which drops we'll
below tue knees and ripples at the hem,
in which the arm covering is left to the
judgment Of the wearer. This cape is
finished without fur and the owner
wears a large fur scarf or neckpiece Of