The Washington herald., 1921-03-27

with rosettes and satin bows. Lace is fes-
tooned down the ent..e panel.
Mrs. Polk was well fitted to adorn her
position. She was proud, dignifed and hand
some.
The gown Of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln IL
of a peculiar interest, and, as President
Lincoln was known to care only for the
austerely simple, is rather surprising in its
regal splendor. 1t is Of royal purple velvet,
piped in white. The corsage is quite pointed
and Is cut low, revealing the well rounded
shoulders of which Mrs. Lincoln was said
to be justly proud. The skirt is very full,
sweeping into a train. The hair is dressed
in long curls and crowned with 4 wreath
OF pansies. A tiny purple parasol and q
purple fan complete the vivid picture.
Mrs. Lincoln, rumor has it, turned down"
Stephen Douglas to marry Abraham Lncrln,
10 whom she saw great future possibilities
She was very ambitious and fond Of social
life, and made q pleasing impression a; the
capital. She was strict and insistent on
r1atters of etiquette and precedence. and
during her husbands administration is de-
scribed as maintaining her position with
tie steadiness of one of the imperial guard"
The gown worn by Mrs. U. S. Grant is
another strikingly handsome gown. 1t is Of
silver brocade, with exquisitely draped
trained skirt, and is said to have been pre-
sented TO Mrs. Grant BY the emperor Of
China. The bodice has low, round neck,
with surplice shaped shoulder drapery Of
rare point lace.
TT WAS during the Grant regime that the
White House was renovated and redecor-
ated, which Mrs. Grant personally super
vised. To her taste and discrimination was
intrusted the selection Of ornaments for the
Executive Mansion, and she took srest pride
in experimenting all the arrangements.
Many brilliant events took place during
President Grants two terms, which were
spoken Of as having dignity and Iuster."
Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, who succeeded
Mrs. Grant as mistress Of the White House,
was very simple and domestic in her tastes.
She did not approve Of decollete, and her
gown shown in the exhibit is made with high
neck and elbow sleeves. Il is an exceedingly
handsome sacque dress Of heavy cream satin,
with panniers over the hip and befounced
train of .brocade. Pearl passementerie and
fringe of silk and thread pearls decorate the
skirt, and give the gown q somewhat bridal
like appearance.
Mrs. GarfeId's gown is quite as sedate as
that Of her predecessor. 1t is also high
necked, with long sleeves. OF an exquisite
shade Of lavender satin, It is made with tight
basque and trained skirt. Rufies Of lace,
outlined with bands Of satin and caught up
in front with string bows, run round the
skirt, the bottom being decorated with box
plated founce, extending to the oldfas
ioned ''pinked'' frilling on the train.
The Garfeids during their long life In
Washington were never at all fond Of fash
ionable society because 1t was fashionable,
but were always exceedingly socisble when
sociability was elevated to an intellectual
place. Mrs. Garfield devoted only two eve
ninss in the week to receptions, and kept mp
her old home ways probs"'r more han any
other mistress of the White House. Con-
cerning this, an authority states: The
bospitality Of the white House win perhaps
be less unlimited than Of late, but those who
are so fortunate as to enjoy II will be able TO
do more than exchange q bow and pleasant
phrase with the mistress Of the mansion. II
there Is less society there may Be more real
sociability."
Id the gown Of Mrs. Grover Cleveland-
the only mistress Of the White House who
was married in the Presidents house, and
who was probably the most beloved woman
who ever lived there-a new note is found
in the umbrella skirt. OF Nile green tat
feta, with design Of American Beauty roses,
il is made with tight corsase Of American
Beauty velvet, low neck, and full pun