The Pioche record. [volume] (Pioche, Nev.) 1908-1925, 1921-03-04
Picturesque Portuguese Capital
Contains Much of Interest
to Sightseer.
CITY OF QUEER CONTRASTS
Modern Town Is Crowded With AMI
mated Groups While Old City Is a
Quiet Retreat-Garden Of Eu-
rope Set Beside the Sea.

LOndon.-H, some evening, writes
correspondent of the Times from Lis
bon, you should leave Madrid-that
luxurious but melancholy city, perched
high above wintry landscape of
which the hard, bleak outlines are
sOftened by a mist-and If you should
take the little short-winded train that
jolts cheerfully, if pantingly, all the
way to Lisbon three times week,
you will wake up the next morning in
an enchanted land.
You will see clear, pale blue sky
and fresh, joyous morning light
touching forests of cork trees with sill
yer; flocks of red brown goats frisk-
ing in and out among the bright red of
the stripped tree trunks; a torrent
cleaning among white rocks; gaily
painted houses covered with Towering
rose briars and surrounded by clumps
Of slended palms, and brilliant green
orange trees laden with silver gilt fruit
that twinkle like stars. Thus, with all
the peaceful splendor of Virginia
landscape, there passes before your
eyes formosa Lusitania, "Jardin du
Europa beira mar plantado," as the
Portuguese poet Ribeiro called it
garden of Europe set beside the sea,
At every little station, as you draw
near the capital, the 'tirst-class coaches
there are no thirds-are invaded b.
| peasants wearing short jackets ant
wooden caps that hang down ont
their shoulders, and women with ivor.
faces framed in bright colored hand
kerchiefs, all carrying baskets of fruit
cheese or cackling fowls. and cir
round with strings of cartridges o
woodcock They swarm into the col
ridors and onto the footboards wit
a friendly lack of ceremony; question
are asked and jokes exchanged in tn
soft. somewhat heavy Portuguese lar
guage. which has lost the rough quail
ties of Spanish, and loud, unrestraine
laughter fills the air. 1t Is pi,
turesque, intimate sort of scene, whic
has the advantage Of lasting too shol
time to pail.
Lisbon Worth Delay.
If you are ON your way to the Port
guese Riviera, Lisbon is well worth
few days delay. Except that the be,
are trlfle hard and that the heatin
owing to the coal shortage, leav
something to be desred-but this do
not matter much for the sun shin
nearly every day-there are sor
i, quite good hotels. They are well ri
and even the visitor who is mere
passing through Is treated as frier
, First, there Is the modern tow
which lies In the plain at the foot
the seven hills. II begins on the ed
: of the country with the superb Aven
y de Ia Liberdad, with its eight rows
plane trees and palms. This thoroul
> fare extends majestically for half
= mile, between villas and fine n,
l houses, right into the heart Of the ci
:. the Rocio, n wide square overlooked
u the hill upon which the rusty red ci
: del stands.
y A dense crowd, differing from nor
u ern crowds In that 1t Is composed
most entirely of men, passes up Il
'g down the footpaths and on the stree
he there are few carriages or motorca
y but plenty of tramcars, which are m
J., numerous and better run than In {
. other European capital. Men 10
groups in the streets and carry on II
" politics mainly.