davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1921-07-17
RITTENI1OUSE There No Evidence That Dead
n Sunshad the ShIhe
Problem FgTght Skirts and the Modern )aSav From Spain

riot among the crush Of people rush
ing. showing and standing on each ele-
| vation to see her wondrous beauty.
THIS lovely lady wore clothes that
had nothing to do with the second
empire, but throughout the ages. since
women learned its decorative value.
the sunshade has been a thing Of pro-
lection as we'll as coquetry. We ban
ished 1t decades ago and took up the
sturdy. practical. black silk umbrella
when We abandoned most Of the fash
ions that appeared to hamper our
movements.
1t was France who turned the prac-
tical umbrella into a thing of coloring
and artistry. For some reason that the
meteorologists have not explained. 1t
rained during the four years OF war IN
Europe French women walked in the
rain. Once they rode or remained at
home. Also they were able to buy
several hats and gowns In pre-war
days, but during the war they could
not, and would not. buy them. Those
who made money were afraid to fiaunt
their prosperity in the faces Of those
who had lost all.
This was the practical reason that
brought umbrellas into fashion. One
might add that the most inclement
weather, or severe poverty. did not
persuade the French women to wear
rubbers. That they would not do.
They let their feet get wet while they
sought to keep their heads dry. 1t is
when the practical American sees
many of these Inconsistencies In
French habits that she is not sur
prised at the high percentage OF tuber-
culoxis-greater than in any other
country. experts say.
France sacrifices much to beauty.
Rather one should say that Paris does
this. for 1t Is an odd fact that the
smartly dressed women are centered
in the great city. Outside OF It, as
outside of London. one does not fnd
artistry, nor good taste, nor beauty.
In America 1t is different. There Is
much the same level of dressing every
where.
1t was because Paris sacrifices to
beauty that she forsook our tightly
rolled. black silk umbrella. with it's in
conspicuous handle. and developed an
amazing variety Of rain protectors.
When the summer came she could not
give up the enthusiasm of her depar-
ture. She invented sunshades. She
made such things as the world has
never seen. The mid-Victorians may
have liked them. but one thinks they
would have better suited the gay and
daring ladies' who clustered in the
court Of George the Fourth. They
might have been severely banished
from the maiden Victoria's court by
that ruler Of Buckingham Palace eti-
ouet, the queens former gaverness.
who was the daughter OF German
pa stor.
In addition to the regulation
parasol there has come about q
fashion for tiny carriage sunshades
Once they were used in the days
when the high-swung victoria was
upholstered in maroon and a pair
Of horses drew the ladies through
the public parks in the afternoon
hours. The French women do not
use these small sunshades in their
motor cars: they serve when they
walk In the Bois and they put them
up to shield their eyes at the races.
1t is expected that they will be
Evening star., 1921-07-17
Do You Like Perfume? ?
D,, van like perfume?

Do you ike perfume.
There are some persons that don't;
Won know. Louis XIV, it is said, used
SO much Of it in his youth that he grew
to have an antipathy for 1t and would
not brook its use on those about him.
at times. Other people outgrow an
never like it. 1t seems overpowering
and heavy to them. They even like the
heavy-scented flowers. some OF them.
like tuberoses and honeysuckie. But
let that scent come from bottle and
it makes them faint.
YOU are, indeed. fortunate, for never
before have there been such charming
containers for it and ways OF using 1t.
The very bottles it comes in are de-
light. They are made Of colored glass.
sometimes Of frosted glass, through
green or amber. red or violet. hickers
delightfully."-. They are made OF pot
terry and they are made of enamel
Some of the distinctive French perfume
makers put their product In charming
bottles, with little characteristic marks
One uses shoppers formed Of bunch
of colored glass flowers. Another always
puts his bottles in charming little SILK
covered boxes, with lids held in place
with tiny bone slides.
So. whichever way you turn there is
something Individual in the perfumes
you see-in the containers, that Is. And
a good many women spend q small for
tune each year. not, so much because
they have taste for the expensive per-
fumes, but because they are ailured by
the containers OF the expensive per-
It is nothing new to go In for one
kind of scent, in perfume and toilet
water, fece powder. body powder and
sachet. The yoman who follows this
fad often has one Of those cha,rning
little perfume burners that first came
to US q couple Of seasons ago from
Poiret-small boudoir lamps. lighted by
electricity, with q little cup in the top
wherein q few drops Of perfume are put
to be dried and disseminated by the
heat from the electric bulb.
There are pretty perfume holders for
the wall-iittle bits Of flagreed holders
to hang there. or else holders OF pot
terry, with perforated sides through
which the scent of the perfume comes
And there are besides Egyptian per-
fume balls Of silver lagree that are hung
about the neck or carried about on the
finger.
Evening star., 1921-07-17

clothes, spending hours and large
sums Of money to get information or
what will be worn in September. then
the mass of Americans are sure to
get new ideas.
They should be glad of this
chance. Our women are sufficiently
alert to want to know what is
coming. ,,
Naturally the French do not refer
to the fashions of the hour as an in
dication of a return to Victorianism,
They refer to it as revival of the
second empire. The AngloSaxons
are more comfortable in their knowl-
edge when they hear the Anglo-Sax-
on name. This much the French
should remember: that Eugenie OF
the second empire was dressed by
Worth. an Englishman. and she wore
the clothes that prevailed in the Brit
sh Empire.
1t is interesting that Worth, the
young successor Of the elder designer
of the second empire. does not lend
himself with any degree of enthusi-
asm to the clothes which his house
made famous on the continent.
1t is left to other designers. espec-
Evening star., 1921-07-17

cepted by the most daring OF women
who. il she were told a year ago that
she would wear bonnets tied under'
the chin, lace mitts and shoulder
shawls with fringe. would have
uassd ussd har phrsse which aPd
American ears. but which the elegant
French dep1ore.
the kind that is distended at the
hips or gathered to the tight bodice.
but we do not realize that simple
circular skirt has been admitted into
the best society or that skirts with
heavy cable cords at the hens to
keep the material from coming any,
where near the figure are as common
as those narrow ones stretched across
the spine. The advent Of the former
has made the appearances Of the latter
appear out Of the picture. II wom-
an wears q skirt which il tightly
stretched across the end OF the hips
she keeps the Jacket on to hide It.
There are still tight slkirte Don't
be misled into thinking that the gar
ment is non existent: but. IL 10 COW
cred up. 1t is not worn with . blouse
tucked into the waistband.
When a jacket Is not the method of
concealment, fiaring oyerskifts Of
lace take its place. It ID the fashion
to use a sheath slip OF dark satin as
a foundation for q dve-YSrd over
skirt of coarse black lace wired at
the hem to stand away 8roW the ag-
ure: not content with acAt1ving this
fares Mres esas over the h hips. s snslf chance os
for the continuation of the uncovered
tight skirt when q variety OF these
fashions are in existence.
1t is the opinion Of experts that the
seventeenth century Spanish idea will
give way to the mid-Victorian idea.
As skirts lenEthen they will widen
and even though they remain short
on the street there will be loose
the prevailing accent Of attenuation.
Other things which are reminiscent
of the Victoria era are the SunShade,
lace mitts and the shawl with fringe.
Once upon q time such accessories
were considered BY our modern minds
to reappear. Yet here they are. thrust
into our eyes At every turn In: Paris.
And fringe is on the shawl ana on the
supshade.> It may be Of silk or mon
key fur combed to hneness. They are
not tired Of monkey fur over here.
The sunshade has gone beyond the
furthest aspiration Of Victorian lady,
It is made Of straw as 1t was In. the
olden days. also Of silk petals, ~ It
was when Victoria was young, and Of
lace as 1t was when Eugenie reigned.
In addition, it is sometimes trimmed
with roses as 1t was when Madame
.Recamier walked in the English park
and innocently caused . nek aaa .
Evening star., 1921-07-17
Sweet-Co Croquettes.

Crate the corn from twelve ears. Cook
together one tablespoon OF butter ana
are blended add slowly two cups OF
sweet milk. into which has been stirred
q pinch Of soda. Cook this miSture,
stirring all the time. until you have
thick, white sauce, add to II the
noWdered sugar, with pepper and salt to
taste. Remove from the fire and set
aside to cool. When cold form with
lightly Toured hands into croquettes
and dip each in beaten egg and cracker
a matter in the chest for several hours,
then fry in smoking hot fat.
Evening star., 1921-07-17

Harrison. and her residence during the
second Roosevelt administration as
the wife of the Secretary of War is
familiar to many who still reside in
the capital. Soon she will return as
the wife of the Chief Justice of the
United States.
Mrs. Taft may figure in the role of
those first ladies. and of whom Mrs
Harding is such distinct type, who
have chosen a definite profession and
followed 1t in spite of the stress of
social and domestic duties. Mrs. Hard
ing became expert as circulation
manager of the Marion Star. Mrs.
Taft" chose music as her vehicle of
expression. She spent full term of
three years studying at the Cincinnati
conservatory. renouncing during this
period every pleasure which inter
fered with her studies. Having taken
her degree. she was rendered a place
on the teaching staff and for two
tfon to this work. She then resigned
to marry William Howard Taft. a
childhood companion. and to whom
she had become gagged in her early
twentfes. But her love of music and
her desire to promote the cause led
Cincinnati Orchestra.
Though her days were filled with
home duties. she took over the posi-
tion Of manager of this musical
venture. Any one who keeps apace
with such organizations knows the
splendid record of the Cincinnati Or
chestra- 1t was only when Judge
Taft was appointed military governor
of the Philippines that she relin-
qutshed this arduous post. A fine
were the pride of Mrs. Tafts home on
h street when she was wife of the
Secretary of War, was one of the
many tokens of regard which the
pusic-loving people of Cincinnati be-
slowed when she was leaving for tie
orient.
Mrs. Taft is a profound believer in
the higher education. and her chill
dren have all realized her ambition
for them in that regard: Her only
daughter made an exceptionally brII-
liant record at Bryn Mawr as student.
professor and acting president.
+ X
The musical events planned by Mrs.
Taft when she was mistress OF the
White House stand out in the annals
Of the mansion. She has several other
achievements which will be related
whenever White House history is
under discussion. She reorganiZed
the personnel of attendants and dis
pensed with the uniformed guards IN
favor of black-coated ushers, such as
may be seen in private homes. She
placed the evening levees on the same
plane of elegance as those given by
the executives of other countries, the
buffet supper giving the long-needed
touch to the presidential amenities.
In recent years this former presiding
lady of the nation suffered severe
nervous collapse. but she is now al
most restored to her normal health.
Mrs Taft was Miss Helen Heron.
daughter of Mr.. John b. Heron OF
Cincinnati. who was the law partner
Of President Hayes.
Evening star., 1921-07-17

demands. 1t does not look ahead.
because it may have a realization of
the fact that 1t will want new
clothes in a few months and the
future is too hazardous to take stock
in.
r X y
DOSSIBLY the public is right. Yet
the reporter of fashions con-
stantly keeps an eye on the horizon,
eagerly telling what is to come rath-
err than what has arrived and is
passing. Such is reporters life.
Such is her trade.
1t is true that if one tells what is
being worn in the United States at
the moment of writing. there Is little
on which to base reasonable vision
Of the near future. but If one writes
of what is being worn in France, not
only by the French. but by hosts of
Americans who are here buying
Evening star., 1921-07-17
Fine Clam Chowder.

Chop four cups of clans after remov-
ing the heads. Parboil four cups OF
potatoes. Cook one chopped onion ana
one-half cup of salt pork cut in cIbes.
Arrange the clans. potatoes. onion and
pork in layers in a saucepan. Cover
with three cups of boiling water and
simmer until tender. Blend three table
spoons of butter with two tablespoons
Of -four, add four cups of scalded milk
and stir until boiling. Add the clam
mixture, scasoE!:s 20 taste. ote dash
of tabasco sauce. and serve not.
Evening star., 1921-07-17
WON EN-
in the
PublicEye
Mrs. William Howard Taft.
BY MARGARET b. DOWNING.

BY MARGARET Ii. DOWNING.
No woman who has ever been first
of the land has filled such a variety
Of roles in the capital city as Mrs.
Taft or has enjoyed a longer and
closer association with the historic
home of the Presidents. She was
just entering her teens when she Wis
ited Mrs. Rutherford Hayes and shar-
ed the honors with Miss Molly Hayes
at a juvenile ball in the east room. All
through the Hayes administration she
paid long visits to the White House.
and to occupy it as mistress became
one of her day dreams. Mrs. Taft was
in Washington as wife of the solicitor
general of the Department of Justice
during the term of President Benjamin
Evening star., 1921-07-17
Vcoran Appears the Newest Midsummer Fash

that reaches upward to the hat. The
last idea is essentially oriental.
Another feature that Lewis accen-
tuates is the use of the lace veil as q
cape. For The Pink Lady" he makes
a poke bonnet in old French blue.
places a thick black lace veil over 1t
and lets 1t fall over a white georgette
gown. down its full length to the
hem. This 10 a most unusual fashion.
1t appears to prove that the lace veil
Evening star., 1921-07-17
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

HERE is a close link between
Paris and the United States
during the dull season. Every
u one feels sure that the inspir-
alton. for new clothes. as well as
present ones. can be gotten by keep
ing the camera focused on the
French.
IL We are to believe the dress
makers. it is evident that Victorian
ism is not dead; it is galvanized into
greater action each week. What
France does in July the states wild
begin to do in September. 1t will
take US a year to accept in it's en-
tirety a French revolution and it
win take us a year to get over our
Evening star., 1921-07-17

tally Lanvin and Poiret and their sat
elites, to insist upon the silhouette
that ruled the world when two
queens, fast friends until death. set
their mark Of approval upon clothes
which the succeeding generations
have stigmatized as hideous.
Here is the contrainess of human
nature: Now that we are about to
begin to wear these clothes we con-
slider them quite smart and attrac-
tive. Victorian accessories are ac-
Evening star., 1921-07-17
Roll Jelly Cake.

Beat three eggs separately very light.
then slowly beat in one cup Of sugar.
Add one tablespoon. Of olive oil. Stft one
cup Of -four and: two teaspoons OF bak-
fn9 povder three times and add at last.
Beat quickly and spread on a dripping
pan. Bake about thirty minutes. Re-
move quickly from 1.-The tin and spread
with jelly while hot. Roll quickly.
Evening star., 1921-07-17
DATE Ice Cream.

Beat i've eggs with one cup Of sugar
Until very light. Whip up one quart
Of vanilla extract, then add the eggs
and sugar and two cups of milk. and put
into = YreeEer. When half done add
ne.fourfh cup Of finely chopped dates.
flnish freezing and mold, turn out and
decorate with stoned dates and stars Of
whipped and sweetened cream.
Evening star., 1921-07-17

IL not dead II not only continues to
float; 1t has reached the proportions
of a flag. 1t may come about that
few hats will be built without 1t.
Certainly il will soften the bril-
liancy OF the colored silk and felt hat
which is in evidence on every corner
in Paris. showing a remarkable re-
bellion to the established convention
of black hats in the street and velvet
hats in midsummer.
Evening star., 1921-07-17

lavishly scattered over the landscape
at Deauville, on the Normandy coast.
X
THERE. where the smart world
L crowds itself into the tiny Rue
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

The second year ~ tho existence p'
iho class. Mrs. Dodge feels that hnrd
lr beginning has been made b. iuc
WORK. inJ thus far only inr bot.
iDr that b. tho educated. NOR, au
bilious cIasz uf foreigner iu Tui-I
ha- Is N't been reached Tfur
Tulsa hJs not Fp IotFc e foreign pop
uiaion. Hut .l is growing. uud ih'
night school. working u a.. opera
ZION with the government Dr. SOCK
ing ip keep BOZ touch with them aul
FOO scc thar 30 ~ friendly hands ana
Nicudly voices that Introduce them
Js they arrive. To- The land OF lur.f
adoption.
Toward this end. Immigrants ar,
,abulatcd uH they leave lilIs Island
where they arc going. who viii meet
them. what they will do upon arrlR
ng IS recorded az tar nH is pustI.
blo. This dlia bee forwarded. Hs iu
tho clso OF Tulsa. 10 tho nigh
school and Mrs. Dodge who lao
charge of AmcTiCautlntlOn wOrt,
thus establishes contact tn
spite Of this fa,l, Mrs. Dodge feels
that There are many yct tp bc
reached ana that TO 80 this not only
The operation N employers Boz
E''H''f NNN vi 'N'la p ~ INV 600 100 % "
wei. CIlizcnship Rho hoicy,s.
thOuid imply HcuHo uf obligation
towards the stranger Within uuT
gates. ana the recognition of a dut.
towards his Am"ficauilAtiou.
'JuF putting us 300 touch with %
foreigner. even II one doesn't tat,
actual part in our work. would hc
- help she said.
Want to Become CitiIrn-.
Tho members Of tho class are all
looking forward to oitilcnahip. spuc
OF them have taken oui first pa
port Problems In this connection
tro carried 90 MrF. Dodge. who Win
he aid ut government servants dp"H
aii sho con 10 help them People
have no idea, Mrs Dodge slid. ct
the dlfficullios that jho constantly
changing requirements Tor the Huc-
cossful acquiring ~ citizenship pa
pcrg entail
Tho thiug that makes this work
worth while. lu Mrs Dodg"'s opih-
ion, rs the deep gratitude that her
pupils find 81 sometimes difficult to-
express to her for her help. u takes
form IN Christmas remembrance,
humorous thoughtful little acts of
courtesy that Hhc ~ quick TO appr"-
ciatc. as well as In verbal and writ
ten oXprcssiun.
Tho class holds a record In night
school for good attendance.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06
ADOPT POINT SYSTEM
Accurate and Fair i,cyord VIII bc
Kept Of Al INtrn-t -turricuiar
Activities

\ poiut system such as is now In
use iu the University Of Kansas and
other kansas schools that will rcgu-
late extra -rurrtCul1r student ariiN-
tics aud the holdiug OF student of
fices ig to be adopted at Central
high school. according to present
plans mat have been approved and
arc ready TO put into execution. This
system viii insure "A record Of every
Students school ana social activities,
and viii dist rihutc the Coufcrrmg ut
honors so that the majority of them
viii rot fall. as is often the case,
upon u few.
Qucstiuunnircs will be scnt
through the medium Of the homo
room, this wcclt To- every student
when these are filled out and re
turned, school authorities viii have
n work ing basis Tor tho new plan,
whereby ~ many points are given,
for Instance, FOR the election to GER
tain class offices; each student is re
Attictcd to 4 specified hummer ut
points during "a year, ana during ma
school career. Thus one student, 10y
reason OF qualities. OF leadership
that perhaps a fellow student Just
as capable ms hc did not possess, VIII
divide honors with his more retiring
fellows. who nv turn are given u
chance for development denied them
under the present regime.
The plan serves a double purpose;
II gives a complete record of tho
extra a-curriculHr and social service
activities OF students and is used IN
reports to colleges required from
hlgh schools. and II serves rs a hasis
for such regulation 81 student actiNt-
tics as the senate and school author
tiles may deem HdViSah hlc.
Mcrlc 9. prunty has suggested q
similar plan tn tho chairman Of the
Oklahoma university int"rscholastic
meet for use at the annual contests
at Norman.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

been college graduates according to
an announcement made by Dr. q. g.
porst. dean OF education Of tho
Valparaiso tulvcrsityl
br Borsf also made tho statement
that thor. IS only / per cent Of col
leRe graduates In our male popula-
,ion az graduate age.
Nearly - per cent " all cabinet
mem hcrs 90 per cent uf all cabinet
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

\ Boston mnu ls the inventor 90 a
road oiling tank which can be road
uy detached from ~ motor truck
carving II, permitting tho chassis
to hc used ror nihcr work
An automobile body invented hy
A resident Of Nonkcrs y. \, can
quickly convert n car into n limou-
sinc, an open touring car with Vic
toria top, coupe or a runahout,
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

Tho inventor OF an electric razor
with two vibrating blades claims 10
can be used without the use ~
ltthCr
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

OF the supreme ,owt and s..
cent ~ tho chief Justices I... h..
been furnished from r.. t'a
cent said Dr Borst. p.t
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06

Huh"t 4 McBlrrov.
Funeral Director. 90 $ Main.
PNbne. Os'g" lgt tJf. Adv.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-02-06
COLLEGE GRADUATES LEAD
Large Percentage ~ our publiC NcD
Have Earned Diplomas.

NAl4l' y AAlHN. i'u.f W.
Thirty ,iN per cent Of tho w"pcrs ot
congress 80 per cent of the pr"si-
dents ut the United States and II
per cent of the vlcc presidents have
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1921-08-18
GREEN RIVER.

Ray Gates is in Bellows Falls this
week.
Mrs. AnseI Sparks and little daughter.
Althea, are with Mrs. Ellen Miner
Mr.. and Mrs. Henry Bell of Halifax
have moved to the Lake place owned by
Ebert Lynde.
Mrs. Wallace Johnson is in the home
of l.. W. Jackman during Mrs. Jack
mans absence iT Boston
Wallace Johnson and family. and Mrs
Ellis, Miss Marion Ellis. Earl Ellis and
Mr.. and Mrs. VIII DenisOn were in
Marlboro the first of the week.
Rev. William V s. Robinson of Rens-
selaer, n. Y, will speak at West Gull
ford church Sunday. Aug. y. in the
morning and at Green River church
Sunday afternoon at 2.45.
Recent camers at Mrs. Ellen Miners
We're Joseph Miner and wife. of Green
field. Mass, Mr.. and Mrs. Charles Miner
of COlerain. Mass, Mr.. and Mrs. Geddes
of Brattleboro and Mrs. Boyle and chill
dren of DummerstoH.