Evening star., 1921-04-03
FEW CHANGES DEVELOPED IN THE NEW
u FASHIONS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER

The square sleeve is at the top of
the fashion. 1t has gained in power
since the beginning of the year. 1t
is often awkward for the reason that
it ends between wrist and elbow. cut
ting the arm where it does the most
harm. The beIl-shaped sleeve has
few followers. 1t looks though
women must choose between the or
namental sleeve to the wrist the tight
dire Ctoire sleeve which is finished at
the elbow with three circular flounces
, and the square mandarin sleeve which
is put into long or lowered arm
hole.
The strongest effort is directed to-
ward making one-piece frock and
"A short cape the prevailing outdoor
costume. Top coats have vanished
from the formal collections of new
spring clothes. The box coat is
form of separate wrap for one
piece frock.
F'lowered silks and crepes are made
into frocks that carry dolman- shaped
capes with slashes at the side for the
hands to go through.
Chanel. whose clothes are heavily
bought by Americans has a snow ball
wrap supposed to go with any kind
of frock. 1t was little under s400
after the duty was paid. That should
eHtltle IL 10 De tne most essential
part of the wardrobe. but not only
should it go with any frock, but it
should be a substitute for all frocks
al that price. 1t is made of black and
white chenille balls arranged in wide
rows. The foundation is net. The
warmth is nil.
DMcet lays stress on Venetian
cape in scarlet which might have
been worn by one of the women whom
Don Juan loved, There is no doub.
that much of the modern fashion is
based upon the revival of Don Juan
as Il stage hero. This was begun by
the French play called "L'homme a la
Rose
The literary sensation of Paris is
new play. The Last Night of Don
Juan. written by Edmund Rostand.
when was found among his effects
that it is as great as "Cyrano." and
when it is produced it will undoubt-
edly turn the attention of the French
designers strongly toward the Vene-
t1an episode which Rostand makes
the basis of the play.
The eXtravagant part of the new
tashion for capes rests in the fact
that each frock is little cape of its
own. The general utility cape will be
worn. undoubtedly. but it is not fea-
tured in the smart clothes of the mo-
ment.
Some of these new capes are cir
cular. in imitation of the famous one
that Chanel gave to the world, others
are reminiscent of Victoria's ward
robe. There, too. one gets the Span
ish influence. These capes are an
imitation of shawls and they are
fashioned to point at the back
The Spanish Mantones are worn by
some Frenchwomen in the evening.
Ihey go with long earrings, the new
sleek couture, with its long pasted
wringlet upon each temple and the
high Spanish comb These wraps
have been brought to America and
the artistic women will appear in
them through the summer.
From Spain and Venice comes the
fashion which is so strongly i'm
pressed upon the world by Ducet and
Madeleine ct Madeleine of trimming
capes and frocks with broad bands
OF cut-out cloth pasted on coarse net
This trimming is comparatively new
Eo!d as IT is-and there is a promise
that it will gain power as the sea-
son proceedA. Another trimming
which Ducet borrows from ancient
countries is slashing thin material
cut into strips and using it in large
diamond-shaped pieces inserted in a
-
America are making good use of the
scissors in clipping net or ribbon or
crepe into tiny fringes. using these
in whatever way the inclination sug-
gests.
One Of the most important gowns
put forward by New York house
is a black taffeta, with a very short
skirt six yards wide at the hem and
trimmed with puffs and cording OF
the taeta, On the tight bodice bring
ing it into full attention is an imi-
tation fichu which crosses at the bust
and runs to the hips. 1t is made of
slashed string colored net. with the
little edges picotted and curling up.
This type of trimming is used in
black in a chemfse frock of black
crepe de chine. There seems to be
a concerted effort to get material
into ribbons or punch it full of holes.
This Is the ancient way of providing
an ornamental surface to the cos
tune. 1t is because of this fashion
that eyelet embroidery is in vogue,
the KIND one gets by the bushel in
Madeira after finishing the tnhoo1an