The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1921-12-04

About four months ago on this
page you were urged TO pay spe-
cial attention to sleeves; to watch
OUT in other words and see which
way sleeves were going to jump.
For some jump was contemplated.
there was every indication of 1t.
All sorts of tentative sleeves were
launched by Paris before the late
summer races and there was no tell
ing which style fashion would ul-
timately settle upon.
AS a matter of fact, fashion has
not settled yet-hut, not able 10
make up her mind, she seized all
the sleeve ideas in sight and re-
solved to exploit them all until some
definite sleeve plan could be arrived
at. Meanwhile--that is, this winter
we are going through the throes
of sort of frantic sleeve fever.
Some OF the symptoms are very Sc
rious but there is hope that sleeves
will convalesce sooner or later and
get back to something approaching
normal.
Almost As Bad As the Eighties.
There was the sa ame violent reac-
tlon against little, tight sleeves
back In the eighties. All through
the seventies sleeves were skin
tight, or slightly flarlng below the
elbow and fashion In just the same
reckless spirit she IS displaying now,
threw sleeve discretion TO the winds
and plunged into veritable sleeve
orgy. II happened about 1855 ana
the frenzy grew and grew until 1884
when It reached It's climax in sleeves
that required a yard of 40-inch fab
ric each, with an equal amount of
| huckram-fearful stuff!-Ato rein
force the sleeve material and make
| II hold its approved balloon silhou-
ette. In every family there is a
| photograph OF an 1894 or 1895 bride
with half the satin of her bridal
| gown in her train and the other half
! in her slseves--amazing sleeves that
/ bulge out at either side like infiat-
/ ed wings on either side of a rigid,
! highl busted bodice, tapering into an
unbelievably tiny waist. IL is noi
probable that things will ever be
/ quite so bad again, for fash on. even
in her present sleeve frenzy cannot
forget all she has learned about
! lines, and artistic grace, and physi-
cal comfort and general good sense
in dress.
Zig Sleeves Not Stiffcned.
For one thing neither crinoline
nor buckkram seem to he lowering
sleeves are--and some of them re-
qulre even more than n yard OF 80.
'nch mater!al-they are soft ana
graceful and drape. rather than
bulge blend with the line or tho
bodice. rather than frame II stiffly
And always the graceful line az the
shoulder and top of the arm is re-
tained. The big sleeve falls down
ward from a low-set armhole In
tstead Of standing out in stlffly lined
gathers AZ the shoulder line. the
main trouble about the new sleeves
is that they get into thlngs-catch
| on doorknocks, pick up small.
breakable objects on tables, and
drop into ones soup or coffee. a
whole new system Of arm move
ments must be inauguratcd before
womankind can manage herself ana
her new sleeves gracefully and
without mishap.
Not only frocks have these new
big sleeves, but wraps, topcoats,
! blouses--even negligees. Some eve
ming gowns have no sleeves at all
others show sleeves whose long
drapories sweep the floor new
Paris inner gown has sleeves OF
chiffon, falling in drapery at front
and back of the arm and the Ions
chiffon draperies weighted with
tassels that drag on the floor, though
the skirt of the costume Is well
above the ankles. Another gown
has sleeves that extend TO the knee.
but the hand Is thrust through a
slash midway OF the long sleeve and
the lower end OF tha sleeve falls ~
mere drapery, lifted and lowered
with the arm.
Contrast In Bishop Sleeves.
piece frocks Of velvet or
serge have bishop sleeves OF georg-
cite gathered into a close wrist
band. The style Is really very
graceful, and assoon as we become