The New York herald., 1921-08-14

brave milliner to launcn II, Drawer won-
en- to wear 1t. We like to have our
foreheads covered. We like to look out
from beneath the brirns Of our hats.
We like to conceal our foreheads and
some OF our eyebrows. And certainly
in the hats put forth for the coming
season there will be not the slightest
opportunity to do otherwise.
Milliners seem to be spending good
share OF their time inventing some new
and interesting sort of trimming. There
Is an amazing amount of manipulation
In these trimmings. Feathers We must
have but we are not content to wear
them as nature made them or as gene
ra tions OF milliners past deemed proper.
We must have our peacock and goose
feathers burned, our aigrettes stripped.
Quills are lacquered or waxed. ostrich
is uncurled. glycerined or metallized.
We must be more than experts to recog-
nize the nature OF the plumage we weaf.
Hat Trimmings.
No one but an extremist or mil
liners model who had to would elect
to wear a fur trimmed hat at this
season. but among those promised for
the autumn are many showing an IN
genious use OF peitry. Monkey has re-
the dressmakers'. Flowers. too. are seen
on somc of the new hats designed for
autumn. The flower makers still exer-
cise their skill IN converting velvet and
silk into the semblance of real flowers
The colors OF real flowers they seldom
possess. There are roses of every color
in the rainbow, and this season we
shall have roses galore in fuchsia
colors and In the violine hues. Metal
lized flowers have also been assured a
prominent place.
It Is not the flowers that make any
serious pretensions to lifelikeness that
have the strongest appeal The fond
ness for waxed and vanished surfaces
In hats has brought out a profusion OF
flowers with highly lustrous surfaces
Just how long this taste for highly
polished surfaces VIII last It is hard to
predict In one period we cannot get
surfaces that are fiat enough. This
taste extends 20 furniture as well as to
clothes accessories. To have highly
finished furniture ia to be vulgar, and
we spend literally to have our chairs
and tables and bureaus "done over with
fat finish" We take pains that our
silver. though spotiessly clean, must not
glow too highly with the polishing.
We have our favorite pictures reframed
with fat duh frames, and send the old
highly polished frames to the run1mage
sale
But we have passed out Of the period
OF fat finishes. We arc again enjoy
ing high lights Instead OF having new
wood and wicker furniture merely
treated with lusterless stain. we have
II painted and then enamelled Glazed
chintzes despised by two generations
gone are now drawn out OF old chests
or bought in present day imitation.
Part and parcel with this taste for
the highiy-poiished surface in house dec
orations is the taste for cire and var
nished surfaces in hats and frock trim
mingr. And there II little Indication
that we a-e 10 give IL up at least for
the present.
Can you marvel that the fashion for
Jet has come upon us7 Combined with
the mode for highly polished surfaces is
the rresent fondness for black Nothing
could be biacker and moro highly pol
ished than Jet The dull, unpublished tet
we leave now. as ever entirely for the
use OF those In mourning.
RS jade and yet.
Lewis has made especially Interesting
use OF Jet in some OF his new hats. He
uses quantities OF pniliettes OF Jet for
evening hats. Jet bead fringe is also in
evidence and there are scores OF Jet or
naments, Sometimes these are studd ed
with rhinestones. This produces the
same contrast that you get In combin-
ing Jet beads with glass beads in neck
chains and fringe. AZ first thought you
may not like the combination. but II do
lights the heart OF ak'rench woman.
oddly enough ssr~ seems still To be