The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1921-08-26

Despite the mushroom success Of
new tailOrs and dressmakers in Paris
who have brought out certain simple
types and popularized them to an al
most unheard of extent, many women,
writes a Paris fashion correspondent,
now are ordering their clothes from
houses that have held to their own
definite types through all these changes
In fashion.
Madeleine Vionnet, who only short
time ago might have been termed an
outsider in the great dressmaking
circles, has impressed both France and
America very deeply with her simple
floating panel styles and handkerchief
drapery, but as women continually de-
mand varying types the opportunity is
not lacking for the success of variety
of styles. This gives a house like
Jeanne Lanvin an opportunity to keep
her definite types.
One model is a box coat suit in
blue serge marked off in little squares
with white braid and blue beads. 1t
has the high frilled collar and jabot
which continue to find favor. Lam
vim has for some time been a strong
advocate of these short, youthful-look-
ing jackets, as well as all sorts of
frilled high collars and fluffy jabot
effects.
Designers Mark Always Present.
1t is a very good thing for clothes
In general that the great makers hold
definitely to ideas that are distinctly
their own. The designing and making
of dress is a great deal Of a gamble,
the past two years have shown very
plainly that there is no telling when
a very simple thing may meet with an
almost overnight success.
If all the dressmakers in Paris had
followed Vionnet's lead and made
her type of dress because it was the
best seller for the time being, they
would have lost their cachet COM
pletely and would have been prac-
tically nowhere when the wave of en-
thusiasm over this particular style
had died down, as it certainly must.
OF course, they cannot always hold
to a definite type No designer can
do this and be a success. New themes
or variations of successful old ones
must be continually worked out.
Flowing Sleeve and High Collar.
The same holds true of those who
do not design clothes, but import to
America the works of the various
great French makers. They must
permit their own taste to prevail in
making their choice. For instance, it
was all very well to bring over those
unique models from Madeleine ct
Madeleine which had the waistline
placed at the knees, if one desired
to show great novelty, but it was not
reasonable to suppose that the women
of this country or any other, no matter
how capricious they might be, were
likely to adopt such a fantastic style.
There are two outstanding features
of the Lanvin clothes which are notice
able in dress at the present time-the
flowing sleeve of greater length than
those used heretofore and the high
fashion which is thoroughly crystal
lied and the latter strong faShlon
tendency.
Sleeves open at the top to reveal
almost the entire arm are featured
in one frock. It was created by Lam
vim for a well-known French actress
to wear in a recent production. The
This is only one of the many indica-
tons that the more lustrous materials
will vie with dull silks this autumn.
Perhaps they will surpass them in
popular favor. 1t is too early to know
but it is certainly safe to predict that
they will be used extensively Many
handsome models of shiny silks will
be seen at the autumn openings. 1t
will then remain for women to take
their choice, but it is very likely that
the public will have tired to a great