davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1921-07-03

where uniforms carry certain access
sories, and these are placed together
for instant usage.
Kings and queens must have this
IA system. or they perish. The ordi-
nary woman should have 1t. II she
does not know how to do it, she
should spend some Of her leisure
hours this summer in working it
out. In this day Of efnciency it 10
quite probable that the most boast
full woman devotes four times the
hours necessary to the work OF put
ting herself in condition to appear
in public. What 1t does 20 her TEN.
per and how 1t exhausts here nerves
are of far more Importance :han waste
Of time. Yet she rarely struggles
toward a remedy.
This depression was brought about
through the magic thought started
by the skill Of French miiIiner who
makes a cape, hat, bag and the
girdle of red silk trimmed with
leather. There 1t is, all in a COM
pact form, waiting for a frock Of
dark blue material No wonder one
is enthusiastic
The commercialists do not enter
with enthusiasm into this idea, but
! the dressmakers, those who ask big
prices for whatever they do. see in
It way to dispose Of whatever they
manner.
True. one does not saunter through
the shops picking up odds and ends
! that captivate the fancy and are as
stimulating as a change Of food in
hot weather If one buys each entire
costume outright, for there is no place
for accidentals. That is the reason
the dressmaker cares little for the ac-
cidentals and why the shopkeeper
feels they are constant lure and
appeal to the shopper. the midseason
things that Keep commerce stimulated.
AS the French philosophy explains
that we are happier and do better
work II we look at life through facts
and not theories, let US admit that
women do not dress by the catalogue
system or that they rarely buy every
which an Officer applies to his uni
As long. therefore, as life is what
1t is. the world will go on shopping
for attractive accessories, especially
these are blouses. In winter one is
easily satisfied in this department Of
dress. In summer one 10 avaricious
and cries out for more and more
fresh things to wear next to the
skin: garments must be discarded at
the slightest evidence Of moisture,
wrinkles or disorder.
A white blouse that can 60 to the
tub makes constant appeal to the
average American woman a. she real
ICES the sense Of comfort she gets
through any garment that goes to the
tub; but there are thousands Of other
women who will not exhaust them
selves and their purses with wash
blouses. They prefer the kind made
Of georgette, OF thin silk jersey, Of
crepe de chine. There are luxurious
blouses for those who prefer muslin,
among which the overblouse is SUI
preme. 1t is in exquisite hand-em-
broidered white organdy and muslin.
A few Of the dressmakers who think
that to ask twenty-five dollars for q
white blouse is giving it away offer
these garments for white pieated
skirts They are Of dns fabric COW
sred With French euabroIdsry. ending;
Evening star., 1921-07-03
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

r UNLESS an emergency arises
women do not buy an entirely
new wardrobe in July and
August. They leave the
struggles of dress during those hot
and lazy months to the worried and
anxious dressmaker who leaps across
the ocean on the fastest liner, goes
breathlessly from house to house in
Paris, buys more or less recklessly
and arrives home. feeling that the
summer has done more harm than
good.
In the meantime women drift. They
have bought the fundamentals of
their wardrobes; they have ceased to
care whether skirts are eight inches
Or sixteen from the floor; they have
ceased to puzzle over fitting their big
waist line into a small bodice. Clothes
have not ceased to interest them:
they have ceased to irritate them.
Accessories become delightful. One
has the leisure to regard them as of
importance. They are bought with
delight: they serve to turn old gowns
into something new.
Any woman feels a thrill OF excite
ment when she has the money and
leisure to buy a new hat to supple
ment those she has in her possession.
y cape to cover frocis. a girdle,
new bag. a pair of smart slippers are
the delights of the hot-weather sea-
son. One Is not pressed to buy them
by remorseless necessity or hurried in
then choice by thousand other tasks.
Knowing human nature and watch
ing the link between a woman and
the weather. those who make apparel
flnd the month Of July the time to
Evening star., 1921-07-03

tickle the fancy of the public by
bright colored straws which float
about in the form of accessories.
pAR1s is peculiarly happy In this
work. She has the American tour
list within her gates. She wishes to
lure every coin from their purses.
That is her pleasure and her neces-
sity. and the wiles she uses arc Law
ishly scattered in the shop windows.
A clever buyer who knows the i'm
.portance of small as we'll as great
things sends these trifies to America
as peculiar and particular bait for
those who are basking in the sun
shine of fashionable resorts or htting
themselves to take part In that life.
The woman who stays in town will
certainly have slight use for = new
red silk cape trimmed with bands Of
dark blue leather; so this is the bait
that lures the woman at the seashore
or mountains for summer holidays.
1t Is difficult to get away from
leather at the approach Of summer
and one expected more garments Of
it than have been offered, but when
France trims a red cape with blue
hide. it goes to prove she is not done
with the material.
The milliners. catching the appeal
Of this brilliant cape. make q hat, 4
handbag and a girdle to match it..
This is one Of the new tricks that
will help a woman to spend money.
1t will also help her to be we'll
dressed: continuity In the costume is
surely admirable.
II one could only have the time
and money to match up the details
of a costume, put them together in
their own inches, use them at one
Evening star., 1921-07-03

which come true. Years ago she
achieved the distinction Of being one
of the best gowned women in WASH
ington. Mrs. Longworth. during her
House. and for years after. took little
interest in affairs of state. 1t is only
since the war that she began to study
politics national and international
AS ffve-minute speaker in favor Of
liberty bonds. Mrs. Longworth made
her debut before the public, and very
soon she developed a crisp, original
way of placing her arguments which
won her instant recognition. Under
so able teacher as Mrs. MediH Nc
speaking, and during the last cam
paign she spoke from the stump in
her husbands district, and through
the summer in various resorts which
she was visiting.
She won her laurels and this year
has seen Mrs. Longworth an earnest.
faithful student of politics as played
in the legislative halls. She goes to
the Capitol every morning with Mr..
Longworth. but leaves him at the
House entrance and proceeds to the
Senate galleries. She has several
cards to the private galleries. Senator
Knox having made over seat perma-
nently since Mrs. Knox rarely attends
the sessions. Mrs. Longworth passes
most of the afternoon listening to
the addresses, frequently makes notes
and is always provided with the Con-
gressionaI Record Of the day pre-
Vious. Along about 2:3o Or O'clock
Mr.. Longworth sauntTS in and the
two go to luncheon, sometimes with
friends on the Senate side, but more
|. frequently in the House cafe.
Much curiosity has been expressed
as to the real reason for Mrs. Long
wort's daily and prolonged visits to
the Senate. She denies that she as
shaping career and seems perfectly
content that Mr.. Longworth should
wear the laurels for the family and
that young Theodore should gather
them for the Roosevelts. Mrs. Long
worth has spent four-hfths Of her
life in Washington. coming here
small child. when her father was
civil service commissioner, and re-
turning in her opening teens when
he was assistant secretary Of the
Navy. She was just seventeen when
Theodore Roosevelt became President.
and her debut. undisputed leadership
and brilliant marriage are all part OF
Washington's social history.
Evening star., 1921-07-03

Rhinestone buttons on the tight.
frocks are an interesting detail.
Evening star., 1921-07-03

There are 50 many Interesting fab
rics. among. them one called tissue
ham, but 1t 10 very thin and sheer.
With gipgham pxtternR
Evening star., 1921-07-03

tickle the fancy of the public by
bright colored straws which hoat
about in the form Of accessories.
Evening star., 1921-07-03
WOMEN
in the
PublicEye
BY MARGARET b. DOWNING.
Mrs. Nicholas Longworth

BY MARGARET b. DOWNING.
The glamor Of the name Of Roose-
welt still continues to make Represen-
tative Nicholas Longworth. who mar
ried Miss Alice, elder daughter OF the
former President, an object Of much
popular curiosity. Visitors to the gal
leries Of the House Of Representatives
rever fail to ask that Mr.. Longworth be
pointed out II visitors to the SEN
ate gallery but knew it, they could, as
a usual thing, look upon Mrs. Long
worth herself, for she Is one OF the
indefatigable attendants on the de-
bates in the smaller chamber. She
has frequently explained that she lis
tens to Senate proceedings rather
than to the House merely because she
can hear better, and because the pro-
cedure is less evolved and more close
ly to be followed.
Mrs. Longworth has the reputation
of being an astute politician. and one
who can converse ON the dne points
of legislation and predict things
Evening star., 1921-07-03
Summer Fads ands Fancies

Some of the straw hats for coun-
try or seaShore wear are made in
fine checks, produced by two colors
Of straw woven in little checks.
Beaded lace insets are used on
some of the new stockings for eve
ming.
Colored handkerchiefs are still in
good style. There are a good many
with deep-colored centers and bor-
ders of white stripes. Rose, violet,
soft green. deep yellow and tan are
all accepted colors.
moire silk are occasionally smartly
worn with black pumps and dark
frock for the street.
Satin slippers with diamond-shaped
straps, the diamond spreading. wide
over the instep, are becoming in the
line they give to the foot.
An exceedingly smart costume con-
sists of white flannel skirt and
swinging, finger-length cape, both
bound with wide black silk braid.
corsage flowers Of velvet ribbon.
the edges OF the ribbon gathered to
pucker it into petal shapes, are a new
detail.
Sash ribbons. wide and beautiful,
sell for six and half dollars a yard.
They are made in checks, OF silver and
some color.
Flowers Of silver tissue give an
interesting note to black lace even-
ing frock. They are sold as corsage
flowers, and may be used to give a
bit of freshness to a frock that Is
in use.
A smart method Of applying a
flower to a hat is to put a big one
on the very edge Of a wide brim,
fastening 1t securely and pulling some OF
the petals over, some under the 1rtm.
Capes are made of oblongs Of silk
fabrics of some sort, bordered along
one long and two short edges with
fringe as wide as the cape itself.
This is really cross between q cape
and a scarf, for it is wrapped about
the shoulders. one long, unfringed
edge at the neck and folded across
the chest. A smart cape OF this sort
is made of black tricot, lined with
gray chiffon, and with heavy gray
silk fringe.
Some of the exceedingly smart
midsummer hats are made of black
MORE silk mounted on stiff frames
They haye q welcome look for severity
when Worn with light froolkk.
Evening star., 1921-07-03
~OATS Of q plain color worn with
striped skirts are still in good

~oATs Of plain color worn with
striped skirts are still in good
~ favor Many are bright red or
green. worn with skirts of the color
and white. Some are of black. with
black and white striped skirt. Then
there are the bright colored coats
worn with white skirts, OF flannel or
crepe de chine or some one Of the
unusual silk weaves that abound in
the shops.
Dotted swiss hats are made over
HACK taffeta foundations-with white
dotted swiss.
Very attractive handbags are made
Of silk, with little landscapes and
groups Of figures made Of painted
especially interesting il the founda-
tlon of the bag is Of plain dark
silk.
Some new blouses Of ,georgette
have wide bands around the lower
edge they are Of the slip7over
times Of metal. sometimes of wood.
really very effective. The crochet is
done in bright but harmonious colors
and the whole effect Is very good.
Many frocks show belts running
through a series Of rings of some
sort. These rings are fastened
around the frocks at waist or hips or
at one of the indeterminate lines in
between these two locations. Some
times these rings are Of bone, some
time Of metal, sometimes of wood,
and sometimes Of silk. They are an
effective way Of introducing simple
trimming without much work.
A good many sport coats are made
without buttons and are, held to-
gether simply by a belt Sometimes
the belt buttons. sometimes it ties in
. knot, and sometimes there isn't
even belt, but the coat hangs loose
Dotted batiste is one Of the smart
fabrics for summer frocks. The dots
are big. machine embroidered, and
usually in a bright color. Frequently
the batlste is OF ecru.
Rhinestone buttons on the tight
wrinkled bodices of some Of the new
frocks are an interesting detail.
There are so many interesting fab
rics, among them one called tissue
Bingham. It really looks like ging-
ham, but it IL very thin and sheer,
With gipSham pxtternA
Evening star., 1921-07-03

pers that match the rest Of her cos
tune. Time slips by; wrinkles and
frowns sometimes produce unshed
tears; life seems to be too perplexed
to overcome. And so the day is be-
preached, with ones temper frazzled
and frayed.
Somewhere, somehow, there should
be arranged a system, catalogue,
method by means of which woman
could dress automatically in the
things which are easily assembled
into well-chosen costume. She
should adopt in some measure the
perfection of the military system
Evening star., 1921-07-03

time, oh. how simple life would be.
One should really establish cata-
logue system Of dressing. No one
should really have to spend more
time in putting together for a days
than in buying clothes.
There is no rubbing this in. Every
woman knows the distress Of the sit
uation. She pulls out bureau draw
ers, she ransacks closets, she tries
on ona blouse, then another. she pins
on one collar and throws it aside. she
snatches at several hats only to dis
card one after another, she frets
over the fact that the stockings that
she has chosen do not call for slip
Evening star., 1921-07-03

Some of the exceedingly smart
midsummer hats are made of black
MORE silk mounted on stiff frames.
They haye q welcome look for severity
when worn with light froc3ka.
Evening star., 1921-07-03
Things You'll Like to
Make.

There Will probably be small pieces
Of dimity or lawn left from Dotty's
new frock- Cut these into small
squares, nine or ten inches on each
side. Roll the edges and crochet q
narrow picot edge in mercerized cot
tor. Have it match tho colors Of the
flowers or figures in the design of
the material. OF there are small pieces
of silk left from other frocks use
them in the same way.) II you eEi-
broider Do:ty's initial in the corner
she will love her handkerchief-to.
match trock even more. FLORA
CCepyrigbt ls21J
Evening star., 1921-07-03

from some expression Of this Lew
fashion.
A strip of ribbon an open rose, a
spray of swirling leaves, row of
triangles. a bunch of grapes, three
apples On a stem, are the curious
devices through which the French
express their delight for using highly
shining material. They have de-
veioped this process to perfection.
They intend to use IL for all il is
worth while the fashion is good.
Evening star., 1921-07-03

that Paris has not finished with
leather.
Evidently she could not get all she
or she found it too expensive for her
purposes, for she offset the lack of il
by developing q process that gives
to materials the appearance of pol
ished leather. "Cire," 'lacquered,"
''varnished" are the three words one
hears whenever materials are dis
cussed. It is difficult to get away
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
VIII ats New
The M arke ct

The first of the seasons rutabag-
as and crooked neck squash ap-
peared on the market this morn
ing. The former was priced at five
cents a pound and looked in fair
condition. The crooked neck
squash were selling for 10 cents
each and were of fairly good size.
Summer squash from The Dalles,
after it's disappearance from the
market for a few days, was offer
ed at the rate Of six cents a
pound today.
New potatoes were being offer
ed a little cheaper in some stores
this morning, the price being now
eight pounds for quarter which
previously only bought seven.
Cheese has gone UP to 80 cents
a pound and over, it will un-
doubtedly take another jump as
the hot weather continues and
the milk production decreases due
to a shortage of pasturage.
The failure Of the pea crop in
California and in the east is the
cause for the extreme shortage
here. There seems to be no relief
in sight and the housewife may
count herself lucky who can sup
ply her table with the vegetable,
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26

Mrs. E. L. Buchanan, the young
widow of Captain e. L. Buchanan,
Assistant Irrigation Officer, who
was killed in the riots in Mesopo-
tamia nine months ago, came
through danger of death and
worse and suffered a painful i'm
prisonment of some weeks in the
harem of Sheik Maid before she
was rescued by a British Relief
Column, under Brigadier-G General
F. E. Conyngham. The story of
her experiences at Sharaban dur
ing the rising is a thrilling story
of British bravery and calm reso-
luton in defiance of terrible odds
and reflects the wonderful cour-
age of the woman who stood by
her husband during the siege of
the Qushlah and, to use her own
words, put up fight on our
own," when the Arabs managed to
enter the building. Her husband
was killed, and she was carried
off.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
Europe Fast
Recovering from
War Ravages

Tacoma, Wash, July 26.--Eu-
rope is rapidly extinguishing the
fire brands of the war and is now
ready to grapple with the prob
lens of peace, Hugh Wallace, for
mer- American ambassador to
France, said today. Mr.. Wallace
arrived at his home here last night.
He was greeted at the railroad
station at a late hour by several
hundred people.
when / left Paris the Upper
Silesian question was the only
problem having disturbing possi-
bilities to Europe" said Mr.. Wal
lace. THE dispatch Of French
troops to that section will bring
a speedy settlement. l believe"
Mr.. Wallace said France is
down to hard work and is in the
best condition Of any continental
nation. He declared Germany can
pay the indemnity imposed upon
her.
German workmen get one
tenth the wages paid in the Unit
ed States" he said, land Germany
can undersell the world at pres
ent.
II am also confident the allied
nations can and will pay every
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26

MIS-. Herb Brodie. who sues ring
enampion for divorce, alleging he
uSed her as a punching bag. This
warning was sounded by Mrs.
nfodie, who testified in divorce
court that the well-known welter-
weight champion Of the Pacific
Soast had used her as a punching
gag. Here is what she saws about
husbands who are prize fighters:
If they are quick in the ring
'ney viii be quick with the punch
st homa
They always hit their life part
nefs without gloves.
rev men who are good fight
cts are good lovers.
Their love taps are often
They are all smiles in the
home. al scO"ls al
me next man I marry will h.
ssntle, I'd rather have a hen
80 r,, husband than one with ,
mighty wallOp." WIN
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
Compliment
Given For
MissNolan

.;so gathering honorlns
Anna Nolan, of Detroit
hlss s,r.r who is visiting here'
hi'nis ,se guest of Mrs. Ray Far
'ns wos given yesterday al'er-
nsl, sa. by Mrs. FlOrian Won Escnen l
noon :. :, home at 1875 Court street,
AZ y. wore for the most part
'u's .sar. who had sent their chill
no'r 70 the First Methodist Sun
s,y s,yD school h at the time Miss Nolan
U'' ,,oted a beginners kinder-
sorp earten class here 1S"r about ,ntimate Innate
years ,.isnds @S were also bidden. uoon,
frlsnco eacorations in the living room
~ ~ the sun porch were done
ana ovnen Un Anne's lace and golden
lad IL "a arranged in jardenieres ana
rottery rott vases. In the dining room Don
S,ne hydrangeas in green POI
Dlue howl h. were especially effect
~, ,rusic during the afternoon was
.,an1ied by Donald Allison, VINO
1rp 1Iayed a number of piano select
ious p,ns He is a pupil of Mrs. Walter
Denton. o,s;stod
.,ont the rooms and in serving
r rsfreshments by Mrs. Ray Farmer
and Mrs. A. A, Lee.
chose present were Miss Anna
No,on Mrs. E. Swafford, Mrs.
htwood. Mrs. Minton, Mrs.
brown, Mrs. James Bedford, Mrs.
p n Carrier, Mrs. James Allison,
Ms R. R. Jones, Mrs. Edward
Miller, Mrs. E. t. Barnes, Mrs.
Frank Myers, Mrs. M. G. Find
Low Mrs Frank c. DeLong, Mrs.
N B. Parounagian, Mrs. Ray
FARMER Mrs. Mcintyre, Mrs. Fred
1egge Miss Margaret Cosper,
Mrs E. E. Fisher, Mrs. H. H.
vandevort, Mrs. Coin. Mrs. E. E.
I1umeier, Mrs. ]. B. Littler, Mrs.
A. A. Lee, Miss Beryle Holt and
Mrs Florian Won Eschen.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
No. 10. Proper Food

Are you rat!
Are you too thin?
Do you get up tired and lack
that indispensable commodity
known as pep?
If you do, the chances are that
you are not eating the right kind
of food. No engine develops its
maximum power with the wrong
kind of fuel and the human engine
is no exception to the rule,
Proper food is not a matter of
quantity or even price as many of
the most valuable foods are not
high priced nor in the luxury
class"
Pep" giving foods are those
that contain what is known as
"vitamines" and should be includ-
ed in every diet. They produce
health and growth. They are milk,
butter, yolks of eggs, and the leafy
vegetables, such as spinach, cab
bage, and lettuce, fresh fruits and
whole grains.
There are five main groups of
foods and one of each should be in
cluded in the diet of each normal
person every day. They are:
Group l.. The mineral and acid
class, the body regulators includ-
ing spinach, lettuce, peas, string
beans, tomatoes, turnips, carrots,
cabbage onions, fruit.
Group 2. The protein class, the
tissue builders, including lean
meats, poultry, fish, oysters, milk,
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
Middle Grove Society
Elects New Officer Staff

The Middle Grove missionary
society met on Thursday, July 21,
with Mrs. Adolph Hoven. Officers
elected for the ensuing year are:
Mrs. C. E. Gibson, president; Mrs.
Charles Bartruff, vice president;
Mrs. E. Wagers, secretary; Mrs.
Mobert Bartruff, corresponding
secretary; Mrs. Mat Davis, treas
urer. Luncheon was served by the
hostess assisted by several ladies.
Those present were Mrs. Joe
aBrtruif and daughter Merle,
Mrs. John Bartruff, Mrs. Charles
Bartruff, Mrs. Robert Bartruff,
Mrs. Frank Scharf, Mrs. Will
Scharf and son Harry and daugh-
ter Catherine, Mrs. E. Wagers
and son Ralph, Mrs. Kron, Mrs.
HOven. Mrs. Oscar Hoven, Mrs.
Otto Hoven and sons Lenne and
oliver, Mrs. Adolph Hoven, Mrs.
@. E. Gibson, Mrs. Frank Crane
and Mrs. Mat Davis.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1921-07-26
Construct Largest
Building In Orient

Toxic, July 26.-Constructlon
work on the new Mitsubishi build
ing which is to be the largest
building in the Orient, will begin
in Toxic within the next few days.
The new building will not cnly be
the largest building in Japan, but
will also be the largest otflce
building between the Suez canal
and America. 1t is to cost S4'-
400 600 and will face the TOXIC
station plaza.
IoTrRNAL WANT ADS PAY