Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1921-10-05
IN QUEER KOREA.
ON THE TRAIL OF ONE COPY
OF THE AMERICAN.
1t Led to an Honest-to-Goo
DOughnut and Ellsworth
Hospitality.
(By Bryant E. Moore.)

way over LuO mOuuIdluS anu alps
downward into the sea, there is a
camp of American troops. Here, in
the hot months, horse and foot, rank
and file, women, children, amahs,
dogs, and number one boys, or house
servants, repair to escape the heat
and odors of Tientsin; and from
here we decided to take seven days
leave and journey for while in the
Korea.
One of us wanted Korean chest
one of those old, brass-bound
away their gear in-and the other
Korean tiger, that has strayed so
Our purposes of going differed
| worthy as the other; for quaint,
smelly goods from northern
"Cataia" are as often as not as
we'll worth while as the things one
| sees there.
| So off we set, without passport,
| and after alternately trying to sleep
| in hot, stuffy, Chinese train, and
sitting on the steps thereof watch
ing the mud villages and fields of
kaliang sweep by under the moon,
we arrived, the next morning, in
Mukden.
| When you want to travel in any
land watched over by the little yell
low gentlemen in kimonos, always
| take a passport with you. This is
! good advice. AS soon as we got to
| Mukden, we acted upon it, and
| posted with all speed to the resi-
| dence of the United States consul
| general We went under the large
pablo that guarded the entrance
! (the grounds are those of an
ancient palace, past the two huge
marble dogs (the mark of old
Chinese officialdom)' and into the
| office, where we waited among the
I files of trade magazines and cata-
| logues that give information of all
| the goods that Uncle Sam has to
| sell.
| The consul-general breezily told
us that Nothing could be easier,
men in uniform don't require pass
ports" and without ado hustled us
off to the Office of His Imperial
Japanese Majesty. Here we re-
ceived tea, considerable politeness,
and the information that nothing
could be done. Back to Uncle Sans
consul then, and then again to that
of H. l. j. NJ This time we blum
dered into conference. Grave men
in kimonos, with gray boards and
heavy spectacles, were discussing
weighty matters. We could see that
from the astonished looks we got as
we withdrew. Noticing an efficient
looking back through a door, we
| called "Boy!' only to be faced by a
very pompous-looking officer in uni
form. But we finally got police
pass, and were satisfied.
| In Mukden you are first impressed
by the Wilderness of the streets. That
is the foreign city, laid out by town
builders with spacious ideas who
have plenty of room. 1t spraddles
about, and disappears into the
! kaliang fields like prairie town in
Canada. Quaint horse-cars with
three little tired7looking mongol
ponies harnessed to each, amble
placidly about the streets, or wait
sedately on corners, while breathless
Cinnamon, with hats and bundles
askew and slipping, rush for them
much as people do in New York. In
the native city the same narrow,
crooked streets, shouts of ricksha
coolies and bullock-cart drivers,
fluttering signs and banners, hustle,
| heat, and confusion; and the adj
vertisement of the up-to-date fellow
who announced in tiambOyant colors
that he was THE artist skilful shop
foreign fashion"
From the hotel we saw horses in
shafts with the high hoop over the
withers, that is the mark Of the
Russian drosky; we saw Japanese
business men hustling across the
square with their kimonos whip
ping about their bare legs, while
voices of children playing some out
landish game floated up to us in the
sultry stiffness. In the hotel, too,
we saw a man taking the grand tour
who said that he had "a little camp
| at East Machias.' 1.-The road be-
tween Bangor and Ellsworth is
pretty good now, don't we Think"
| We took the train for Keijo
| (SeouD that night. 1t was notice
ably cleaner and better managed
| than the Chinese train, but it had
| one grave Disadvantage were
| four berths to section, or closed
compartment Now, in the. East it
is said that the Japanese washes his
! body but not his clothes; that the
Korean washes his clothes, but not
his body, while John Chinaman pre-
serves a strict and impartial neu-
trality by doing neither; and that
an open window is anathema to all.
We wondered who were to share our
sleeping quarters. Luckily no one
did.
We were awakened the next
morning by succession of soft
knocks on the door, followed by
procession of officials with the an
nouncement that we were entering
Chosen. First the baggage had to
be looked at, then the tickets must
be inspected, loud voice demanded
to know if we "wantchee blekfast;"
a particularly loud humping that
we thought must at least herald the
approach of the Mikado's secret po-
Iico nrOved tn he man with