The New York herald., 1921-10-23


world quite suddenly.
In the August collections the novelty
was sprung by the dressmakers of
sleeves that had nothing to do with the
frocls. They were not attached to q
lining; they were attached to the shoul-
der by series of snaps. The lower
part OF the armhole was left to itself.
Other sleeves were merely gorgeous
ruffles. attached to jeweiled bracelets
above the elbow.
When a man saw lace pantalettes un-
der one evening frock and these gaudy
gorgeous ruffies on the arm, he said
Good Another move In economy. A
woman can use her sleeves for panta-
lettes and her pantalettes for sleeves"
These and several other novelties In
the way Of covering and uncovering the
arms were shown by the mannequins to
the French women when they came into
town In September to put their mark in
a final manner upon fashion. We, the
Americans, are shown everything and
we get what few buyers bring to us,
and on their Judgment must rest the
accepted American fashion but In the
autumn the smart French women make
keen and canny selections from all that
Is offered, exploit It as the leading fash
ion and impress its influence upon Eu-
two separated countries do not dress
alike. America takes its fashions from
its commercial buyers. Europe takes its
fashions from the women of position.
whether or not they belong to ancient
families.
No Attempt to Outline the Arm.
In the bewildering confusion of new
sleeves the observer never finds one that
attempts to outline the arm from shoul-
der to hand. The sleeve may be tight
at the wrist. although even this an ex-
ception, but It begins always In lavish
display of material.
The average sleeve Is wide at the hem
and sometimes It Is ugly. The Amer
lean women have induced French de-
signers to change the sleeve. which Is
extra wide over the hand, yet not large
enough for artistic beauty. by linking
the opening together with ornamental
buttons run through gayly embroidered
tuttonhole1. This trick does not destroy
tho outline OF the wide sleeve. yet II Is
not considered inartistic by designers
who have accepted the idea.
Such sleeves are In coats or ono piece
day frocks, which are intended to give
good service. In one such sleeve, placed
In q coat. q dressmaker uses these orna-
mental link buttons TO hold the entire
sleeve together from wrist to shoulder
One might say that width was the
dominant desire In arm coverings. With
that idea firmly fixed in the mind the
Imagination may run riot Fancy and
caprice may Join hands.
There is no doubt that the French de-
aigners live up to this principle. They
use more than three coiors In one sleeve
although they may start with something
As demure as black velvet The lining
may be OF Capucine red crepe de Chine.
the wrist and outer edges of the sleeve
finished with deep borders Of Chinese
yellow and the buttons may be OF en-
bossed silver.
italy furnished q wide flowing sleeve
In her history OF clothes and Il Is used
In afternoon gowns Il has capelike pro-
portions and gives women a continuous
chance 20 adjust Il backward and roll
e upward when the arm Is lifted its
generous drapery falls backward TO show
the gorgeous lining and well turned
arrn--at least II should be we'll turned.
az wide sleeves are treacherous cover
ings for a bare arm.
These Italian affairs are usually SOM
bro IN their coloring. which means that
they are part OF the froclI II Is when
the lining IL put In that Eayety begins.
Soft brocade covered with flowers or
landscapes or battle scenes arc used. A
colorist who is making the sleeve may
prefer daffodil yellow chiffon. scarlet
velvet or purple satin for tho lining
TO carry out the idea OF the bracelet
sleeve there f. n fashion for small. In
CONSPICUOUS top sleeve that reaches
nearly 20 tho elbow and serves as a
foundation for n haring circular hounce
made OF cream net covered with ruffies
OF black and white Tom Thumb fringe
divided by bands OF silver embroidery.
The inside of the nounoe will be OF
orange colored chiffon, run with bands
OF gold braid.
This gives the general effect, you see
Of a gorgeous Oriental rufie attached
10 a tight bracelet above the elbow.
The latter fashion is used for the eve-
ming. and the top OF tho arm Ia left bare.
The former fashion r. used for morning
and afternoon. the top OF the arm being
covered by the fabric OF ting frocie.
Wonderful things, these new sleeves