davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1921-01-19


''Closc and cordial o.cperation be-
producers Ia one OF the most strategic
developments Of the last two yeare. This
has been constructively promoted By the
National Automobile Chamber OF Com
merce and the Motor and Accessory
Manufacturers Association, represent
ing the two dominant phases OF the in
dustry and functioning respectively
through their boards of directors, spe-
cial committees and managements.'
Close to four hundred Of the leading
motor, tire. parts and accessory makers
In the United States are members OF
the Motor and Accessory Manufacturers
Association. The organization was
founded about sixteen years ngo and
has been nm influence Of major i'm.
portance In shaping the progress and
policies Of the automotive industries.
"I believe I have attended every ma
tional automobile show since the begin
ming" said Mr.. Thompson, land on
the basis Of careful and conservative
study l can honestly say that l have
never before seen such alert interest on
the part Of the public Us at the l02l
shows now In progress. Men and women
alike are not content to look at super
fetal, showy details. the trappings Of
transportation. They are prying into
the nooks and crannics Of the vehicles
and their constituent parts; they are
asking intelligent questions concerning
gasoline consumption. mileage, main
tcnance, repair and other elements OF
economy. They want to be shown and
sold--and rightly so. Nothing could be
better for the industry.
1.-THE automobile shows, rejecting "a
they do the mood and temper Of the
industry and the pulse of the buying
public, have come down to funda-
mentals. They are on business basis.
"Iou nsk me about the future. My
business is not prediction, but perform
ance. Furthermore, this is no time for
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1921-01-19

tor trucks, but motorcycles, tractors
and airplanes, ana each Of these opens
up new fields Of usefulness, new worlds
to conquer.
'"The Motor and Accessory Manufec-
turers Association recently asked it's
members for frank, impartial and
critical statement on present conditions
and the immediate outlook. The re-
sponses, coming AZ they did from some
of the lending captains of our industry,
were all characterized by a sincere eff
fort to fnce the facts as they are. We
specially asked our members not TO gild
the situation with felse optimism.
This survey, therefore. should be
authoritative and Illuminating. Merg-
ing ali the answers. the symposium
justified this general summary
1.-THE trend toward stabilizing the
fundamental factors OF the industry and
the forward looking emphasis on the
elements Of sound business methods.
especially with regard TO improving the
efficiency of production and the quality
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1921-01-19
Four-Passenger Sedan

. CustOm-buiit Imperial limousine and n
Your pa ssengCr sedan, mounted on a CadlllaC
chassis. feature the display OF the Cadillac
The deHignora Of tho seven. pa Erenspr custom
built Imperial Limousine have aimed 10 TX.
press Individuality In every detail. This
car, nnishei In anRehrush green has n
division glass between front and rear com.
pnrtment. lowering hush with the rear of
the drivers seat
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1921-01-19
Have Sport Model

In the latest Chalmers line are found a
model. arven.pa ssengrr touring, four. .pa asen-
ger coupe hnd a sedan. mounted on two
siZes OF chassis Of ll7-inch and I22.inch
Evening star., 1921-05-22
WON
in the
PublicEye
Mrs. Hiram Johnson.
By MARGARET b. DOWNING.

The senior senator from California
is one of the outstanding figures in
Official life. yet Mrs. Johnson is among
the least known in the legislative
circle. Perhaps none draws so sharp
line between public service and
their own private affairs As Senator
and Mrs. Johnson. They live in that
picturesque old mansion beyond tho
village of Riverdale which one Of tho
Lords Calvert built in the latter part
of the eighteenth century, and IL
one wishes to see the stalwart leader
of progressivism At close range and
country home will offer the oppor-
tunity.
ut may be prosaic and ont Of tune
with the times" remarked Mrs. John
son. ITO talk about the pleasure OF
a garden and the happiness which
paramount issue in my family and
always has been. have seen my
husband throw Off the most grinding
worry with spade and trowel, and
even the hum of, the lawn mower can
work miracles for the nerves and
toward clarifying the mind.
This fine old mansion of the CAL
verts has been a staff and q COM
fort for us both, and the way we
have studied old books on colonial
gardens in order to restore this one
on harmonious lines has made our
lives absolutely complete. Then the
search for furniture which would
fit into the spacious rooms was also
A task of some duration, but entire
ly satisfying.
fined with flowers which brighten
that home at least ten months In
this climate; space for the vcgeta-
bles and herbs which are needful
for the kitchen-these things are
worth the undivided attention of any
details with perfection and yet have
time for public questions, all well
and good. But I am Of Bacons
opinion. that lending . garden is the
purest joy known 10 man. and. after
that, a home. and is It not comtorta-
bic when ones duty can Mt in 30
nicely with the idea Of perfect hap
piness?"
Senator and Mrs. johnson spend
the entire year in the Riverdale man.
California as may be imperative.
Their servants have all come from
their establishment in San Francisco.
for, like nearly all Californians. they
claim the Chinese cook is the best
in the world. and theirs is one OF
the most talented in the line. within
the home Senator Johnson ceases to
be a politician and becomes the cour-
try gentleman. with q strong dis
position to read in q quiet, CANDLE
lighted library when 1t has become
too dark to use a hoe or rake in
his garden or to overlook the con-
tents of his hotbeds in the winter.
Mrs. johnson, sentially home low
ing. and SO from her earliest mar
ried years. is an omniverous reader
and Of the most conservative ideaA
There are few new booka worth
while which she cannot discuss; The
library is the living room Of the
house and the most frequented, after
the dining room. Mrs. johnson is
one who deyotes hours to working
out a color scheme for a dinner party.
and. though few OF these banauets
are heard 81. they are numerous and
carefully planned. Shs will obtain
the softes. effects with shades ard
HnGcrs. ard even the food will add
i note - the harmony. and the re-
suit is marvr.oUsiy different from
,hcGc exploited hy,o1;crers. Senator /,
ana Mrs. .!qhnscn.have pasaed noaely.
forty years togethes.,
Evening star., 1921-05-22

There are surely the most attrac-
tive sandpiles in the shops now
They cost a good deal. Of course. One
is s65. made on a platform that keeps
the sand Off the ground. There is a
!! ledge for a seat all around the box
and there is an awning cover over it
in. bright striped awning.
A tcte-a-tete hammock-that is. a
hammock half facing one way and
half the other-is a most delightfully."-
conversational arrangement. far more
SO than the ordinary hammock where
two persons must SIT calmly side by
side. This type of hammock is quite
es attractively upholstered as the or
Ginary sort. in all sorts of figured
cretonnes as we'll as in plain. heavy
cloth Of good shades of brown. green.
blue and red.
Then there is the individual ham,
mock, the hammock chair. that is also
most comfortable. To be sure, one
cant lie down in it. but it is so ex-
actly right for resting in, neverthe-
less. far more comfortable to most
persons than lying down in a ham,
mock, that it has many devotees
This sort costs variously, according
to the material with which it is COW
cred. That, Of course, is true of all
hammocks.
For children there are little wooden
swings-big enough for two small
children-for about 81. They may be
had in more expensive make. but this
price is enough for very satisfac-
tory swing. There is gliding swing,
one that runs back and forth in re-
sponse to the child's pushing instead
Of swinging in response to the same
effort. that costs about twice as much.
Another garden accessory sure to
charm the child is a teeter. quite as
Evening star., 1921-05-22

in exactly the same fashion. They
think they didn't But they did
Things are not as they WERE" said
the old lady to Punch. They never
WERE" sai id Punch.
All of which is philosophical and
! historical treatise beyond the value
of white organdy Maybe 1t is. Yet
the students of fashions believe that
fashion is the moral and mental re-
action OF the human race to every
thing that happens to il. not alone
fashions in clothes, but also in man.
ners.
The fact is that organdy has fallen
like meteoric shower on the face
of the earth. Despite the fact that
in the long run it is the most costly
and eXtraVagant summer fabric. it's
freshness and beauty persuade every
one to use it. Ii is linked up with
serge, taffeta. crepe and satin. 1t is
built into hats. into neckwear. es-
pecially into the broad fichu which is
revived from Martha Washington s
day.
The sketch shows a girl gowned
in organdy for wedding. The huge
hat has huge bow at the side, of
the material. The frock is of printed
chiffon with flowers of blue. yellow
white organdy as precisely folded as
Beau Brummell's collar.
No generation needs the warning
that one must bring to the care of
organdy the devotion and precision
of that gay fashion leader who was
the friend of the Prince of Wales. 1t
takes time out of ones life to wear
organdy But that it will be worn is
a settled subject.
Evening star., 1921-05-22

French suggestion has been elimi-
mated The English suit. as it is
made and worn in the British empire
is accepted.
1t has simplicity, durability and a
sufficient informality to keep it out
OF the battles of fashion. 1t is mere
ly itself. 1t takes no part in the
struggle for a round neck or an oh
long neck. a short sleeve or long
sleeve, draped skirt or a fiounced
skirt. With a magnificent gesture 1t
banishes these veXatious questions
into thin air. 1t is what it always
has been. II is. therefore. at its best.
1t is not quite right to say it has
no determined contour this season.
1t has standardized itself for the
Evening star., 1921-05-22

frankly intended to be used to build
up complete costume by alliance
with a separate skirt.
In such blouses there is a return
to the color fashions of twenty years
ago. They are not boned and they
are without lining. which is species
of informality that the woman of
twenty years ago knew nothing about,
but they are unlicensed in the choice
of color and fabrics.
These new ones go over the skirt
and go over the corset cover and
have about as much stiffness as an
army shirt, whereas the old ones. al
though they went over the skirt. were
as tight as corsets.
1t takes an effort on the part of an
I individual to get rid of red this sea-
son. The dressmakers have gone wild
about it. They are aided and ahetted
by the milliners. The. people who
manufacture blouses are the ones who
could really use this color to the best
advantage.
There is a smart overblouse Of ori-
entail red slightly gathered into the
waist line at the sides in order that
it will not present the tight f1attened
line across the diaphragm that only
| the slim can tolerate. 1t is stitched
With blue at its edges and fastened
with blue buttons. There Is small
| guimpe which shows when the high
| wide collar is unfastened and thrown
! back
Evening star., 1921-05-22

THERE is another brilliant blouse
from France made Of Chinese bro
cade worn with q blue suit. 1t Is
built to give the effect Of a short
tunic blouse and resembles a waist
coat when it is worn under q jacket.
The sleeves of it are blue georgette.
This oriental idea Of using wide
square sleeves of transparent coll
ored material in a tunic blouse Of
varied coloring is good. Paris brought
it up from the orient and is making
a feature of the fashion. 1t gives a
tall woman a distinctly individual
garment.
The touch Of red is shown in an
other French blouse OF red and white
dotted georgette which carries the
newly revived fchu we have lifted
from the days Of Martha Washington.
This piece of neckwear is not espe-
cially easy to adjust and it Is not al
ways becoming. but it is fashionable
and one must reckon with 1t to the
best OF her ability.
When 1t comes to transparent
blouses. organdie comes into its own.
1t is offered in bright colors. espe-
cially in yellow, and il is often gir-
died with black satin to give il a
touch of solidity. Chinese brocade is
sometimes substituted.
Evening star., 1921-05-22
Do You Like
Mushrooms?

MUSHROOM SOUP.-Clean half a
4l pound of mushrooms and chop
them fine. Add them to a quart OF
stock and simmer for twenty min
utes. Then rub through a fine wire
sieve. Boil a quarter of cup OF
tapioca in cup of water half an
hour and add to the soup. Season
with salt and pepper. and at the last
add a cup of cream stirred up with
the yolks of two eggs.
Deviled Mushrooms.-Butter the in
side Of little paper cases and put a
Of each. Nearly fill them with mine
ed mushrooms. seasoned with lemon
juice, pepper, paprika and salt
Spread a thin layer Of deviled chick
en- mixed with the yolk of egg over
the top of each case and bake Tor tif-
mayonnaise on the top of each and
serve at once.
+ Bacon and Mushroom Pie.-Put lay
ers Of thin bacon alternately with
layers OF mushrooms in buttered
baking dish for two or three layers
of each. Then cover with layer OF
mashed potatoes. we'll seasoned. Add
two more layers of bacon and mush-
rooms and then top off with a layer
of potatoes. Scatter with bits of but
ter and bake for half an hour in a
moderate oven, covered. Then re-
move the cover. brown and serve.
+ Tomatoes and Mushrooms. - Select
eight medium sized, smooth toma toes.
Cut a hole in the stem and scoop out
the insides. Chop one onion fine. add
to it a tablespoon Of butter and al
low to simmer slowly in saucepan
When colored a deep yellow. add six
ounces Of bread crumbs which have
|'been prepared by hrst soaking in
water and then pressed nearly dry
Evening star., 1921-05-22

Also add one dozen chopped mushrooms.
one tablespoon Of chopped parsley,
pinch of salt. one peppercorn. a
dash of cayenne and four tablespoons
of tomato catsup. Mix all thoroughly.
Then fill the tomatoes and sprinkle
with bread crumbs and melted but
ter. Bake in a moderate oven until
brown and serve with sauce made as
follows:
Tomato Sauce.-Put half teaspoon
of butter in A saucepan with an on
ion, carrot and half Glove of gar
lie. all cut fine. Simmer gently for
ten minutes. then stir in a tablespoon
Of -four. Add half pint of stewed
tomatoes and half a pint of stock.
Boil gently for thirty minutes. season
and strain.
Evening star., 1921-05-22

cut and orramentation of the new
blouses suggested for this summer
one would feel like the chameleon
who fell into the Kaleidoscope.
The colorful wh1rl Of the blouses
shows that the manufacturers are
trying to please the public or per-
suade the public. Whichever way it
is. there is a belief that the separate
blouse has come into its own. 1t will
not to be the shirt waist Of other days.
for it will not have undisputed su-
premacy: the blouse of the summer
will be varied and not uniform.
When it is worn with a suit 1t
often resembles a waistcoat for the
simple reason that many of the new
suits have coats that do not fasten.
They open in II straight line down
the front and unless one wears a
blouse or a waistcoat there is exhib-
tied TO the view that ugly line across
the front of the figure where the
shirt waist goes into the skirt. When
these two garments are in different
colors the ugliness is emphasized
| The very slim can obviate this condi.
Evening star., 1921-05-22
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

" HE American woman is secure
1y anchored to a shirt wais:
She may adopt the Frenci
word blouse" and pronounce
1t in her own way or with the accent
on the French u" 1t may hang over
her skirt like a Chinaman's tunic or
peasants smock. or it may be neat
ly tucked into her skirt in the way
that America invented
There are two classes of women
who can be depended upon for 10y
class is the young and waistless who
Can stand the tail of the blouse tuck
ed over the hips and the abdomen;
the other class is middle-aged with a
long-cultivated waist line and a tight
ly strapped hip line.
The women in between prefer the
careless overblouse. 1t saves them
ithe trouble Of seeing to it that body
and soul are joined. as they say in
New Orleans.
Now and then the American women
drift away from the separate blouse.
The shops insist that the sale of
these garments has been as large
throughout the reign of the one-piece
frock as it was before women took
It into their heads to partially elimi-
nate the coat suit, but the observer
has feeling that the one-piece frock
suppressed the shirt waist.
What is true Of the loyalty of
Americans to the separate blouse is
also true of the tailored suit. Neither
10 ever entirely forsaken. Possibly
our climate keeps US desirous of the
comfort and convenience of the in
formal attire or rather the costume
we think is convenient merely be-
cause we are familiar with it.
THE truth is that the one-piece
frock is ahead of the suit as far
as convenience is concerned: it is
more easily made. it is cheaper to
buy. more simple to adjust. 1t is the
primitive garment of the world.
The shirt waist. however. belongs
ITO US. which may partly account fol
slider it our contribution to costumery
So does the rest Of the world.
The late Gen Thomas H. Barry
told an amusing story in connection
with the American shirt waist which
shows how its fame has reached unto
the obscure regions OF the earth. HI
was in military command of the
Philippines when the Sultan OF Sulu
and his wife-sounds like comic opera
personageS-madet their call of cere.
mony. They came with some display
of splendor from their dominion, ar
rived in Manila, and made their way
to Gen. Barry's house. When Mrs
Barry received them. the sultaness
Evening star., 1921-05-22
White Organdy Is
a Popular Fabric
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

When that weave of muslin known
as organdy was revived into modern
fashion it carried the older people
back to more demure and romatic days
when young girls were not called
f1appers.
In the minds of the older genera
tion white organdX the japonica, rib
boned slippers and a coiffure of curls
were linked with romance, with
coquetry. with the established ca mou- =
flage of woman's inferiority to man as
q worker and her superiority to ma n
in the art Of attracting and evading
pursuit.
The old. old game goes on. 1t will
never change. But its outward mani
festations are so different from what
they have been that the world re-
CARDS the existing young woman as
an entirely new species that has ap-
peared on the planet. Yet this new
species wears white orsandy, wide
trimmed hats. a fichu and a bouquet
of field flowers.
1t may be that in the age that fol-
lows this we will associate white
organdy and blue sashes with un-
trammeled dappers. with girls in knee
Evening star., 1921-05-22
Fringe Trimming.

literally edged or covered with
fringes varying in width from one
inch TO eighteen inches. Some are
knotted and some are not. but they
either harmonize with a gown in color
or are black. witt! an exception oc-
casionaily such as q navy blue fringe
on Il gray dress or brown fringe on
tan wrap. The ight-coicrad
fringes and rainbow effects are used
on the ribbon sasnes which decorate
many of the street dresses and suits.
Evening star., 1921-05-22

she persists in regarding the coat as
a part Of the skirt and not something
to be taken off. To prevent the jack
ct from irritating the skin or absorb
ing the body moisture. careful women
wear plain blouses Of white ma insook
cut high at the back. long in the
sleeves. finished with picot edge
These come between the skin and the
coat. Many women attach their skirts
by snaps to the bottom of these little
camisoles instead of putting them on
a belt at the waist. The trick slen-
derizes the figure.
While it is true that the sale OF
neckwear for Jackets increases as the
season deepens. there is no lack OF
appreciation of the separate blouse.
There are certain types to be worn
| with suits by those who insist upon
taking off their coats. using them as
| outer wraps to be removed indoors.
and these go over the skirt and not
under it, There as other types. and
! they, are more frequent. which are
Evening star., 1921-05-22
SKIRT.

tion by wearing a belt, but the ma
jority of women prefer to omit it..
1t thickens the waist line.
X X X
BECAUSE coats often open in front
there has come about an immense
sale of neckwear. 1t consists Of or
name ntal vests in a variety Of fabrics
from organdie to silk covered with
chain stitchery including many pieces
made Of deep cream batiste covered
with an eyelet embroidery
1t is unusual for a woman to wear
whole shirt waist under coat when
Evening star., 1921-05-22
FOR THE HOME GARDEN

thrilling as the old board balanced
over a barrel. and prettier to look at.
These teeters are painted in bright
colors. and are arranged with spring
in the middle. so that the teeterins
board cannot fly. off its base.
Croquet is coming back into vogue,
and in response to this vogue we
have really very attractive croquet
sets with good-looking racks to hold
balls and malle,s. These racks are
so decorative that they add to the
porch furnishings.
There are rustic chairs and benches
both for children and for grown-ups
that may be made to furnish the gar
den in good style. 1t is quite possi-
BILE, with a rustic bench and a tree as
a foundation. to make charming lit
tie garden house, with an awning for
a roof and uprights fastened to the
back of the bench for one wall. the
nearby limb of a tree for the other.
You can thus at slight expense have
something both unusual and attrac-
tive.
There are screens for the garden.
too; made of green or brown bamboo
or stats, on frames heavy enough to
withstand light breezes. These may
be used to screen garden bench
where a break in the hedge of shrub
berry leaves 1t exposed
Those iron tables that are sold for
the garden. under big umbrellas. are
fitted now with covers to match the
umbrellas to protect them from the
damaging effects of wet weather.
Big jars. some of them from Spain
or Italy, are sold for the garden-jarS
of terra Gotta or some glazed pottery.
These give decidedly decorative
in, ri
tageous spot to hold some flow ering
plant.
Evening star., 1921-05-22

season of 1921. The coat is finger
length. is beltless. has mannish
collar and revers. two broad pockets
at the sides and long sleeves fastened
with bone buttons at the back. The
skirt is short. cut in two pieces with
a straight seam down each side.
There is more novelty in color than
! in cut. Black and blue are forsaken.
| stripes, checks. patterened surfaces
are ignored. The surface Of the fab
rir is rough. but supple; the mate
I rial appears to be porous. The col
ors are often warm and rich. There
| is a deep tan called beige which
| sometimes has a suggestion Of mauve
Evening star., 1921-05-22

length skirts. smoking cigarettes in
public places. racing hgh-powered
machines through the public streets
and saying things to men that might
have brought to blush the French
women of the Bourbon court
Fundamentals never change, but
manners and morals change during
and after every war. 1t is waste Of
time for one generation to be shocked
at another as each reacted to a war
Evening star., 1921-05-22
blouse Matters Of Dress Summer Approac

NNE RITENOUSE Says the Shirt and the Peasants Smock
Have Models the Blouse
Over the SktOmentaton by Embroidery and Applications Of Cloth
Used for Skirt and Coat Also
Monn