Middletown transcript., 1921-09-03
Sport Coat Has
Call in France

chanting than the warm yellows,
vivid greens and the lovely cool grays
of these fabrics broken with stripes
and borders in black woven at just
the right intervals to produce strik-
ing effect. The clever manner in
which dressmakers and tailOrs are
handling these bold-patterned novel
ties plays no small part in the sue
cessful vogue OF coats made from
them.
In outline the coats show little that
is new. They are all very slender,
unusually so for this type Of wrap.
There are many capes but even these
are of the straight variety and not
all ample. The Russian blouse style
is in evidence, although bit unus-
ual for a motor or travelling coat.
New Neckline Treatment in Coats.
Since the outside is so gay, Innings,
by way Of contrast, are somewhat
somber. Black crepe de chine fire.
ouently is used for this purpose, or
the dullest shade of the plaid is Sc
lected.
In most instances sleeves are long
and flowing. Bell sleeves may in turn
have bell cuffs, perhaps double cuffs
Of this sort.
Madeleine ct Madeleine cannot re-
sist Introducing their very low waist
line even in coats. In the model
"Dans lie Train" inverted box plaits
are the method by which this pro-
nouncedly low waistline Is defined.
Collars are high, although the
shawl collar also is used. The high
collars all spring from a low base.
That is, the neckline is considerably
cut out so that the collar starts far
out on the shoulders and comes up in
a mufling sort of way about the
ears.
With materials showing so much
action in the way Of design little
trimming is needed, but we still see
fringes used, although they are ap-
piled in new ways, being In little
patches or clusters rather than in
rows.
Originates Continental Manteau.
Patou, the man tailor who Is en-
joying a great following in Paris, Is
selling very successfully at the pres
ent time his model called clipper
ary," English as to its name, although
made Of a French fabric interviewer
with all the soul-stirring bars Of the
Scottish clans. The model hangs
straight front and back, with what
little fullness there Is massed on the
hips just at the point where the
sleeves join the body Of the coat The
collar is straight and mufllng. The
sleeves are bell shaped.
Agnes has a successful model
called Paillasse, also developed In a
plaid wool tissue. 1t Is in Russian
blouse style and also has the high col
lar and large bell sleeves. A fancy
Rodier material woven and en-
broidered in green and yellow plaid
was chosen for it.
The same maker has brought out a
coat OF signify more QreSSy type
made Of blue repp and trimmed with
elaborate embr0ideries, faclngs Of
white broadcloth and black silk
fringe, which latter falls from the
sleeve motifs and edges the ends of
the girdle.
Plaids and Profuse Patterns.
Black and black and white COM
binaticns are still very popular, al
though no longer exclusive. Heavy
crepe Marocain continues to be much
in evidence for the wrap and the
craze for the cape coat or mantle,
usually In black. made on the sim
plest possible lines, often with en-
broidery in self-tone, still continues.
There is also a continued use Of black
monkey fur as trimming. These silk
and lightweight cloth coats, although
simple enough for the daytime, are
sufficiently dressy for informal eve
nins wear.