The New York herald., 1921-02-06

employed to build vast and diverse
number of garments.
We have not had the crepe de
ue chine obsession over here. Buyers who
brought back clothes from France had
chosen more variety in fabrics than
the French houses offered and had ex-
pressed themselves as somewhat per-
picked as to the loyalty shown by
classes and masses to the one kind of
weave for all kinds of gowns. That
might do for one city, they said, but
not continent.
Du3etyne caught us right and good.
1t swirled over the continent like
storm. Every woman was snatched
up by It, although warnings were sent
out broadcast as to it's ability to per-
isb But the time for this velvety
theand dangerous yet altogether lovely
the brio is passing. In the Northern
can innate the weave will be suitable and
Uncomfortable for two months yet but
the trend of thought is toward the inn
mediate future. What we will wear
is the problem shaping III our minds.
The answer accents taifeta and crepe
de chine. We are to take up the
French fashion, you see.
Must Regard Her own Type.
A. Il Is wise for woman to regard well
her own figure and type as she APP
proaches season devoted TO the adop-
ton Of these two materials. II may
not be necessary for her to choose be-
tween them. If she Is exempt from
the troublesome and vexatious business
of always making choice. OF trying TO
be fashionable and not unovely at the
same trne then let her trip lightly INTO
any shop or dressmoklng house and pick
Up az random that which IS put before
her and which pleases her whin or wish
~ Tho pcrploxed majority are not as
these They must bring more ludg-
ment and shrewdness than inclination
and money TO the proposition of new
frocl1 or an entire seasonal wardrobe.
They will find themselves at the cross
roads between taffeta and crepe de chine
as soon as the last vestigc OF their
winter clothes has given its ultimate ser
vice. They will find that the dress
makers and shops have declared both
materials good in their sight and pro-
pose to make rich harvest with them.
The reason they will be placed be-
tween two choices IL this That crepe Is
for the large. the full. the florid taft
feta Is for the small. the pale. the slen-
der. Yet each woman will asiS herself
she is too large TO wear the one or too
thin to wear the other. Such is the In
fluence Of fashion.
Taffeta presents the more acute prob
lem. II cannot be built up into fulness
like crepe II stands out stiffly from
the figure even when plainly cut and adj
justed. III - has ruffles and puffs II
becomes impossible for the big woman.
Crepe has the disadvantage OF cling
ing without any effort Of conccalment
@ every bone OF the body. " Is re-
vealing and a disillusloning fabric. For
tunately, there Ia no intention of build
ing 10 with severity upon aay Kind OF
figure. for Il is precfnmenuy the fabric
for drapery: but no amount OF pointed
cascades or Irregular loops Rcep9 u from
plainly disclosing whatever anatomlca
DEFICIENCIES ono may wish 20 conceal
Through these qualities it gives, there
fore. grace to the large and somewhat
dominating figure. Taffeta gives added
bulk and a strain OF awkwardness TO
any but the wlliowy There is the choice.
As Mr. Chesterton in his American
lectures has scoffed az the ignorance
OF the educated" when they refer TO
British and American stock as Anglo
raxons, Il may be better 20 find an
other label for the type Of woman We
are inclined 10 define In Tint manner
t n, least 70 find another lnbel while Mr..
Chesterton is In the country and Is maxi
ing US self-conscous about our daily
mistakes So suppose We say tho big
woman" Is wiser n she looks at taffcta
from safe distance. leaving It's evident
popularity to that new type OF woman
that has grown. seemingly, to III the
present fashions.