The New York herald., 1921-02-20
ny ANNE RITTENHoUsE.


w fur furnish 's 'is" the 1@a prains ~'"s% ena Tp9 ,n
itiative in the great industry
that produces womens clothes talk
about fashions, they have n way of
going back to war days. 1t is so when
they talk of suits.
In France, as here, suits, whether
strictly tailored or otherwise, were
ve.y largely the product of man labor.
Though women might design them. it
was the man cutter and the man
tailor who made them. In Paris these
men were usually French, German or
Italian. In that never to be forgot
ten summer of 1914 it was the French
men in this army of workers who first
laid down their shears and needles
to take up arms. The Germans fol-
lowed closely, to return willy-nilly to
the fatherland and then the Italians,
either to return home or to join ranks
with the French.
The women workers who remained
could, of course, have made suits.
though not so well as the men, at least
until they became expert. But this
was not the simplest. most economical
solution to the problem. 1t was char
acteristic of the way the French met
many a war emergency when they
simply gave up suits. Separate frocks.
worn with eapes when the weather
required-both garments that could be
made by women-became the universal
street attire Of French women.
or course some of tho tailors returned
TO their benches. but tho women Of
Paris have not returned to suits. There
were distinct advantages, as they see
things. In the mode Of wearing frocks
and wraps.
There are many American women who
apparently have eliminated suits from
their wardrobcs-many OF these. women
who have spent much time during and
since the war days in Paris The dress
makers here who most closely follow
French dress tendencies and who supply
the needs Of women who look most mar
rowly to Paris as the source of all dress
inspiration speak Of suits as hardly OF
consequence at all any more.
France Makes suits for America.
To he sure. some OF the French dress
making houses are designing and turn
ing out suits-larEey for the American
or English demand. The only suit that
seems 10 be Of much Importance for
the French woman Is the sport suit.
which by the way, Is looked upon, even
in its most Gallo rendering, as being
Of American origin.
Sometimes sou hear we'll dressed
women boast that they do not possess
a suit. that they do not intend to pos
sess a suit But this boast is more an
indication Of personal prejudice than
reflection of the taste or demands OF
most American women.
So while from ono quarter you sec
raised eyebrows Of doubt when you
launch tho belief that this Is 70 be
good season for suits. from resorts IN
the South. prognostic always OF fash
ions and taste TO prevail later YOU hear
that suits arc in demand and that the
suits worn are especially attractive IL
ia frequently the accessories ot the suit
that particularly recommend ", and
81 iinglv the type 81 suit that has met
with the most enthusiastic support 80
far Il the suit that lends itself best
10 the addition OF accessories often
OF course tho suit " sold Or made win
these accessories Incorporated ~ H. but
accessories they remain. being made
separately from the suit and easily re-
movable.
The suit made without rcvers Is meet
ing with success The revers come IN
IN the gilet or collar that Il worn with Y
these sometrnes made Of piquc and
again of fright colorcd silk fabric.
Again. the suits are made 50 as 70
reveal well chosen blouses or separate
wsistcoats The coats arc never double
breasted: IN fact many don't fasten,
sometimes tcinE ncld together ony by
means 81 link buttons of onyx and silver
A waistcoat that looks very much like
that worn with a mans evening coat II
meeting with great favor at ono of the
beat houses
The term DtreCtoirc as applied 70 suits
this spring may moan = variety Of things
Tt ii n term that has been used gibly
enough 10 appy merely to distinctive
type Of suit as Well as merely to certain
trimming accessories. and before the
sprlng WAKES and wanes it will doubt