South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1921-09-04


other case OF the chorus beauty die
taung the style 20 the country.
The Work OF Fixing the Styles.
think IL will interest you TO know
how Il is that the most gorgeous
dress creations OF the stage are
brought into being. We do not
simply turn a dressmaker loose on a
batch Of girls. A far more elabor-
ate process Is necessary.
In the first place, the theatrical
producer summons 10 his sanctum
his scene artist, the director, a rep
resentative from a well known mil
linery Gallon, together with modistes
from chosen dressmaking establish
ments. This IS as important and as
Impressive as a bank presidents
conference with his directors. with
an artist 20 present their plans as
they are conceived, these style
princes go into executive session and
map out a plan for exactly what
gowns. hats. stockings and footwear
are needed for each members Of
each scene. Sometimes modiste IS
responsible for the way the shoulder
strap Is fastened. or the fur cloak
fastened. and sometimes the nature
lOf the scene determines these things,
I as IN Oriental scenes. But in every
instance II must be remem bered that
the players are thrown against an
elaborate background Of exaggerated
color and line arrangement, and the
costumes must be made 20 fit the en-
semble. both 81 color and in silhou-
cite.
The Importance Of CoIors.
This alignment Of color is there
fore much discussed at the confer
ence OF the manager and his bench
men, for Il Is well understood that
here Fashion is born. and the styles
/ for thousands Of smartly dressed
women from Maine 10 California es-
tabHshed. Before the importance Of
color contrasts was thoroughly un-
derstood in this country. some alb
surd effects were seen on the Amer
lean stage.
we'll recall one elaborate produc-
ton. which I shall not mention, in
which the leading lady-a person OF
| considerable mperament-insisted
upon wearing a beautiful scarlet
evening gown in a bedroom OF pale
/ blue. The stage lights accentuated
the red gown so acutely that the poor
lady stood out OF the set with a
CHASTITY persistency which all but lost
her her beauty fame.
In my own case, after the scene
artist ana the director have COM
/ pleted their plans, I personally go
over each costume and give it ny
final disapprovl or o. X. 1t is no
exaggeration to say that the chorus
OF the Follles today would present as
beautifully gowned an assortment OF
women as the smartest drawing
rooms OF the worlds most famous
hostesses. And when I tell you that
their clothes are as carefully made
as any special order was ever exc
cuted on Fifth av., know that you
viii be moved TO remember the old
days when the effect was the thing
and the construction OF the gown was
never given a thought.
, "Does the chorus beauty have
nothing TO say in regard 10 her
clothes?" IS a question 1 am fire.
quently asked.
Chorus Beauty's Own IDEAS.
Yes, we do allow the girls TO in
dulge their own whims and fancies.
The case OF a particular blonde girl
| comes to mind. She was a striking
type OF fair-haired beauty. and she
discovered. by a careful study Of her
own type, that certain BLUSH silver
bodice not only heightened the gold
OF her hair. but accumulated the fair
ness OF her skin. Needless to say,
when she suggested the scheme 10
me and held the shimmering thing
UP to her under the lights. 1 raised
no objection. And so. in this way.
we encourage beauty aids whenever
they really are aids.
/ One young woman, however. with
a fondness for barbaric jewelry ask
/ ed me one day IL she might not wear
/ her gold bracelets and some really
/ beautiful gypsy-lilze necklaces. But
l the set was a drawing room scene, at
tea time and she wore an ingenue
/ frock OF gray chiffon, simple. de-
mure. girlish, so that I was obliged
/ 20 discourage the combination. It
\ readily will be seen why jewelTy is
frowned upon. 1t IS not because II
\ fails 70 carry on" with The costume,
\ but because the best taste has die
tated that a lavish display Of jewelry
/ Is not good form. II is only just to
say that we have very little trouble
on this score; high class chorus girls
are generally young women Of re-
fined tastes and habits who do not
need 10 be told what IS permissible
I and what Is not
HOW the spit" Curl started.
This matter OF indulging the
( chorus beauty's fancies in the way Of
I dress and couture, however, is the
very thing that has often resulted in
/ the setting OF new fads and fancies.