The New York herald., 1921-10-02
ny ANNE RITTENHoUsE.


M wear. whether or not we
choose to do 1t. So here Is a
synopsis Of the leading houses which
even the remotest American should
contemplate with interest, for these
things will soon be brought to her
doors. All that France does, America
gets. There were enough buyers Of
clothes over there during thS time of
the collections to guarantee that none
in our country should cradle any be-
lief that old clothes were good enough
or that new ideas were dormant until
next spring.
The names Of those who lay down
fashions over there may be as sound
ing brass to thousands of Americans,
but that does not signify that the
products Of their imaginations will fail
TO influence even those thousands.
Callot's Pantalettes and Kimonos.
Callot exploits three silhouettes-the
Egyptian, almost touching on sava-
gerry; the Japanese. with the slim XII
mone built OF soft woollens, not crepes,
embroidered with beasts and birds in
dull Japanese colors, and the Second
Empire with a. touch of Goya- Span
ash. In the first two the hips are fiat
tened by the material and the wide
sash Is drawn around the end of the
spine, its ends disappearing at the side
or front or hanging down as drapery,
but not tied. The Egyptian clothes
have tight underskirts with close lotus
leaf panels. richly embroidered, often
In white against black
The skirts In the Empire frocks have
hoops inserted at the knees, not hips,
and the hem is graceful through seal
lops that fall loosely to the floor, or
through the material being looped up In
smewhat the fashion OF the Algerian
skirts. Both these movements prevent
that hard line about the feet which
tho old gowns Of that sort possessed.
Lace pantalettes are also used to soften
the effect.
The bodices are very decollete and
tightly drawn about the figure, accen-
tuating the slightly higher waist line.
These skirts are not flat In back and
front: they are EVENLY gathered all
around the edge Of the tiny bodice.
Sleeves are large Japanese fashion
square things that cover the hands, or
medi9val italian that hang to the floor.
with the hand coming through at tho
waist line. The special sleeve OF the
house Is one attached to q wide jewel.ei
bracelet placed Just above the elbow.
IT is finely pleated and hangs to the
finger tips. and Is built OF transparent
fabric. Another novelty Is the lavish
usage OF landscape materials. in woollens
as in brocade the kind of pattern trat
the American refuses. Some of II is
printed, some embroidered. and both de-
signs add tremendously to the pri.s OF
the frock.
Lanvin Accentuates Hoopskirts.
At Lanvins this season there is the
usual manipulation OF fabrics for the
young girl who Is going to parties or
who must be well turned out for the
street IN things that are neither too So
phisticated nor too reminiscent of tho
nursery. And for such as these she
has arranged Second Empire gown,
In Juvenile way and argues by her
varied presentation of them that
youth Is to be modelled after the
Empress Eugenie. She has chosen fo-
her mannequin a demure young piece
OF wifchery who could not by any mod
ern reasoning be expected to behave the
way she looks; II she did she would be
200 years behind the times. But she
makes an enchanting Jane Austen he
rofne, onk needing a bottle of smelling
salts insta OF q bouquet to gain per-
fection.
The Second Empire frocks of the
house Of Lanvin are actually reminis-
cent OF our family ancestors, for tn.
skirts with their hoops at the knees are
built OF flounces OF silk net covered with
tiny flowers like edelweiss arranged In
pale coral ribbon.
The tailored suits for adults have hip
length coats loosely swung from the
shoulders and tightly girded at the low
est limo OF the hips with wide, dark fur
which has pendent loops of the peltry
hanging across the front or back. They
refuse to continue across the sides. ana
II they are In front they don't appear
In back. The sleeves are square, as all
others are. Here and there they are
fastened UP the outer edge with large
metal buttons, the bare arm glimpsed be-
tween.
Lanvin sponsors velvet more than the
other houses who use wollcn for suits
and simple frocke. Like Patou, she draws
on the italy OF the DoRes for inspira-
tion. The names and the colors would
prove that point. She uses the padded
roll OF metal embroidery or one OF vel
yet across the front of the skirt. hang
ing from the low waist line. reaching up
ward at the hips. How the average
tout American matron would look In
his gay horses collar swung below the
pelt In front Is easily imagined and then
dismissed. Pray that II will never come
. pass.
rhe skirts sweep the feet in all clothes
'ut the tailored suits, the skirts OF
which are about ten inches from the
loor.
Hats arc not to be omitted. Lanvin
ever omits detail so important. She
oes not let another choose the hats
pr each OF her gowns. She Is too seri-
is an artist This season she advo- |
ates the Russian peasant headdress
18th fatty upturned brrm covered with |
nall snail shells. tightly curled- When !