The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1921-11-19
GERMAN COOKING DECLARED
To SHOW GREAT IMPROVEMENT

III UuUW Unl
London. Nov. lS.-Onc OF tho things
that has changed more than anything
else in Germany OF late years IL cook
ing writes correspondent OF the
Times. Before the war the ordinary
EngNshman who had not visited Ger
many probably thought OF German cook
cry as Rausngps and sauerkraut. conJur-
ing up visions OF greasy dishes set be
fore greasy people with extended waist
Lines. Crease and the waist limo are
supposed TO have disappeared during
the blockade: the latter has reappcared
with surprising rapidtty, but tho grease
laden dishes belong 10 the past.
The standards Of German cooking
haye improved out OF all knowledge
'iurtng the last seven years. The food
IN the various Berlin hotels Is without
reproach and the service excellent Ger
many has taken u lear out OF the cook
cry book OF her scandinavian no!sh6ors
and offers a choice OF hors d'oeupr"s OF
almost bewlldcrinE variety. Recipe
books are published consisting solely
OF "Yorspe!son': my own. which are
bought at the Frankfurt museum OF
cookery, contains no fewer than I'94A
different ones.
A.vls,t round the various hotels ana
restaurants OF Berlin Is An education IN
analytical cookery. II used 10 De Soiu
that the quality OF the dinner was In
Inverse ratio to the qunhty or the
music Perhaps that Is why the best OF
all are those intimate little places
whrre the wealthy Germans or success
ruI racing or business men 80 when
they want to celebrate success Tor inc
serious business OF eating.
Here food IS appreciated Cor It's own
sake. Real commissioners need 10 band
when they give thetr undivided Htten-
ton 70 the delights OF partridge
cooked 10 a turn. served with sauer-
kraut stewed IN delicate RhIne vine.
Mashed potatoes accompany this. NBnt
as whipped cream.
wild duck with ounce jelly Is
ravnrlte dish at another little reSta"-
rant famous for It's cooking. IT pre-
scpts no problem for the ENEItsn
houscwirc The almost national oISh
OK roast goose ~ familiar feature
, How d!d II come TO DO eaten colo W'th
Cumberland sauce" I suspect thNt one
day a clumsy Scullion upset the Nui"-
herland sauce over the roast goose anu
that when the chef hal "6mtnlsteEed
punishment ne aNucu 'h''"'' 49,
his notebook
Though sage and onion StunInE Is
,,t,nown to Germany. 4 fruit salad
Il not 70 be -d"sp!Sed az an accom-
nan,mcnt to this winter dish some res
taurarts serve salad with II. There -
q wide enough choice. FOR the German
so,ad recipe book contains over a thous-
and salads ranging from n" ed."'e
herbs OF the field to eXotirS now. alas
on the import Index.
Tho same care. or even more. Is given
ri food In private families. Almost
every German domestic servant Knows
how 10 serve up az "Hr"l'"nt dinner
me houscmaid or CNHrwoman can d" ~
almost as we'll as N" cook. IL - St'"
. served in most German middle ''ASS
families in the middle OF N" DAY.
though the hour shifts between ana
: o'clock. Whatever the season or the
year, Il always starts with soup
Germans ure not very good at soups
! Tn.y anyear 70 know nothing Of the
Y,ockpot. and SOUP cannot b" prepared
urly A few hours before Il Is nccneu'
The ordinary German servant cXceIS IN
/ ,Ic cooling OF fried tish and - quick
{ To take UP. and even improve upon any
foreign recipe one may care 10 teach
! her. :.
! The roast beef OF Old England. as II
. apucars here mus: he C'aS'"I Win
/ thos. other exaggerated German carl
- CatureS Of the people who are Supp"Sc''
m cat II The prevalent plea IL that II
= Is eaten raw. or nearly 20. N"S'" '"'
truth has ucnrira,.d there "a II tendency
TO cook Il 10 leather. 50 d!Nl'ut Is IN"
haopv medium to thu German mind
=, -
north Germany. but they make up Tor
tit on the Rhine.
/ i,idd!nSs. as W. understand ;h"ul. and
fruit, ,arts are things one haI to learn
10 10 without though there Is one sweet
10 be recommended In he shape Of fresh
ample rings fried In batter and served
J with powdered sugar and cinnamon
! Fruit salads and the OPEN fruit nan
ar. ravor!te dishes. tor fruit iS g'"d
n,antitul ard not dear. The E""Nn frn';
salad. mad with curacao and served
with plenty OF whipped cream. makes
an excellent sweet.
! \ purely German sweet iS made "'h
Dumpern.cNrl bread crumbs tthai swc"'
! black bread that can 'hr h night ut del
! ca,eSsen shopsD mixed with sugar an1
| Chocolate powder. Layers OF this mtX'
,uro are aitnrnatrd with layers OF
F.. ,,,,IDned cream. 1t IS however. nm ac'
o,,lred taste. for which tho Eng ,tHh pa
ate might require 10 20 Into training.
! Desscr; presents no problems. straw
berries. pcaCho1. nectarlnrS and orange
5p-a all 40 excellent an" tCeNp"7"N'
! that tho housewife can GlwcNI make ~
!awi,h :hAse should Imagination fall t'
defeat tho iln.!ia lions ~ the sw"rt II
fact. so-ca'leI hungry Germany has
very good idea OF food Il always had.