Arizona republican., 1921-04-19
Rx Frederic J. Haskin

WASHINGTON, D. C.. April 10. -. Those who condemn modern fashions and shudder to think what is coming next, could find food for considerable thought and some comfort in revlew of fashion history which Is being shown here. The models are ls6 dolls belonging to Mrs. C. H. Wright of Pittsfield, Massachusetts. and the costumes are faithful reproductions of old prints selected to illustrate the progress of European fashion
 The extremes of clothes history are jokingly represented by Mother Eve in a very enyeloping fig leaf, and a -merrie vamp'' in a yellow silk, back less, armless evening gown In be- tween. the real collection begins at 300 A D. and touches the high spots of European styles down to 1915.
 At first glance, the visitor is apt to regard the full, flowing skirts. the fischus, and enveloping sleeves as models of dress propriety. Here are long rows of china damsels covering a range of 1000 years of fashion, and not a sleeveless arm or silk clad knee visible.
 Closer inspection, however, brings to mind details that leave one doubt ful if the old days were the best The iron corset that made possible the wasp waist, the bobbing pannier
 
 cloth. the coal scuttle bonnet that hid the face of the wearer as in tun- nel, are picturesque antiquities now. But transpose any of them to Fifth avenue or Main street and the dress reformers would leave the short skirt chase cold to make war on the new evidence of fashions increasing de- pravity.
 If the little red haired doll repre- senting Queen Eliza beth or the be- wigged figure of Marie Antoinette were to step out of line, come down from the table, and suddenly change from their fifteen-inch height to life size, there would scarcely be space for any one else in the room. The fluffy blue panniers worn by the Marie Antoinette doll are kept in place by a basket of straw worn be- meath the skirt. When the grand danes of the court wished to be seated. the basket had somehow to be removed. as it was impossible to make it collapse satisfactorily.
 Clumsy Clothes
 Imagine the society debutante checking her pannier scalfolding at a dance, or a street car aisle billowins like a bargain counter with piles ot organdie and georgette crepe Imagine, if you can, one of Madame de Pompadour's headdresses-a tow 6G1n2 DOIlDauOCr CdIetully cOn- structed with an extra story of flow CTS and tulle, and a steeple of plumes above that, the whole structure meas uring six feet in height. Imagine yourself trying to see the comedian cavort over that kind of headgear and the modern ear huff and tn, Fiji Island bob" pale into triviality
 Farther back in the historic line O. dolls is French model of the twelfth century with a tall funnel or cornu copia on her head. This was the da, of the hennin. One in the Wrigh do1l collection is about six inches tall or nearly half the height of the doll This head decora ton in life sig would meas sure three feet. From tn. tip. a veil of lace falls to the groun' and forms tram. The hennin be came a thing of extreme extrava gance, both as to size and expense Jewels, lace, and yards of rich ma terial were put into the hennins until the mayors of some Frencl towns ordered them collected in tn public square and burned. Ina was a blow to the hennin, but tn women of fashion found solace il sleeves and hoops By Catherine d Medicis time, in the sixteenth cen tury. women's sleeves were padded t make them stand out like huge sau sages. The men too adopted paddle sleeves and trousers, partly for style