davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02
larger Hats With Wider Skirts Felt Models Very Fash
ionable Black Tor Dress Hats This Year Colors
tor Ordinary hats Brinls of the Face
Braided Velvet Models Much Liked.

4 porters Of millinery, has many low
crowned hats also--expressing the
contrary opinion OF Paris about hat
heights for fall. One of these low
crowned models, a tipped forward
niniche Shapes pictured. An enor-
nous osprey feather ornament shoots
out at the back from the bandeau
which lifts the low crown. In this
nat, also, you see the double brim eff
feet which is going to be much used
this fall. The close bandeau forms
the lower brim and above this Is a
sloping brim that flares upward toward
the back; the crown following the line
Of this sloping brim. The picture
gives little idea Of the brilllance cf
this hat which Is in the new fame
red shade. feather and all; most ef-
fective with q wrap in gray tones.
Grapes Are Autumn-like In Suggestion
Still another new shape is pictured
in the grape-trimmed model. Most
women will like this low. graceful.
grape-garlanded hat better than any
hat on today's page for It has the pic
turesqueness and grace that always
appeal to femininity. Every woman
viii know this is the most becoming
style Of all, and II Is q style that Eng
lish women particularly fancy. and
which suits the gentle beauty OF Eng
l!sh faces better than pert and saucy
modes that French women adore.
Grapes are obviously the proper
trimming for autumn hats though not
often does fashion permit any trim
ing in its obviously proper season. The
new grape trimmings come In won-
derful oolorIngs; Deep. rich purples
and catawbas and In cool, soft greens.
Tho hat pictured has mauve grapes
and the shape-a modified poke style
With an attractive roll Of brlm---ls OF
pansy purple velvet Another grape
trimmed hat that IS enchanting IL OF
blue velvet In a wide roll-brlm shape.
with green grapes forming a garland
within the shallow roll OF the brim.
Moire ribbon in a greenlsh blue shade
Is made into n smart bow that nts
into q space across the back. the ends
OF ribbon Just falling over the edge Of
the brim.
Hats Increase In Size
Generally speaking. all shapes show
an Increase in size and this increase
follows naturally the increase in the
length and fullness OF skirts. with
skirts longer and wider. the very small
hats that have been in vogue would
look all out OF proportion. Tho sill.
houotte must have balance and hats
have a great deal TO do in keeping the
balance symmetrical. A longer line Is
noted from front to back in millinery.
also. contrasting with the side to side
olonratlon Of last winter. Some of
the new fall models are trimmed a,
the sides, but the line Of the hat Itself
is usually longer from front 10 back. |
There are a great many felt hats, |
though American milliners are not A.
a-'Nus'asilc about thesr ss Paris mil. Il
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02
Wristbands Out of Fashion

RI you are making your dresses.
these days, with Wristbands or
skirt belts. or innner belts OF stiff
oelting" you are away behind the
times. Wristbands are all out OF fash
ION and skirts are joined TO waists in
the hattest possible way. II you insist
on having a belt In your skirt, make
II several inches larger than your
actual waist measurement, for frocks
must positively have a loose, straight
line as though they hung from the
shoulder and were only held In at the
waist by sash or sirdle. The very
loose belt also makes the waistline
lower an Important point Just now.
The old way-and some women who
make their own dresses cannot seem
10 set away from twas to hang the
skirt on a stout firm walstband OF
betting" and then sew the upper
edge Of this belt 10 the bodice. MANY
women are now busy taking out ali
these siir belts and adjusting their
costumes to the new mode. In the
waisieand method, the skirt was gath
cred TO the belt: then the bodice WAS
gathered and the straight belt sewed
over these gathers--and the belt
hooked closely about the waist. This
drew in the frock at the walstllne. an
eneet all wrong Just now. Rip ou,
your tight, stln "beltlng" Wristbands
and get fashions new soft. loose line:
then tie a sash or fasien a glrdle over
me joining seam al your low wals,line.
You will look very much smarter and
your silhouette will be vastly better.
An easy way with froeks already made
is to run bastlng thread through the
bodice Jus; above the belt. Leave the
belt on the skirt but cut it down 70 a
half inch width Slash through Il at
the back where the sfirt L. ,-,,ks..a
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02

Nv IL ~ etA GRROSsA6 AVN
n among the Paris milliners. Som,
of them are trying to INTRODUCED
~ tall. skyscraper hats for fall anC
the rest cling to the close, soft ha'
which drapes around the face. The
tall nat is extremely chic but 1t /.
not so apt to be beeoming-and il
must be put on Just right. a soft
cap-like hat may be dragged on any
how-toward one side or the other
and always keeps its jaunty. becoming
effect. But woe be 10 the tall hat that
slips little awry and makes the
wrong angie with head and face! For
the most part, the tall hats are re-
served for dress wear and are models
" Formally: while the soft, draped
shapes keep their place for everyday
wear.
Vasselin Villetard Is one OF the
French milliners who insist It is time
for taller millinery. a new autumn
turban from this house has a velvet
prim that shoots up eight inches in
front, rising above a draped silk crown
ana very long uncurled ostrich
feather follows the line OF this mount
ing br!m. the shank Of the plumes at
tached TO the brlm over one ear and
the dropping tip falling on the op-
posite side of the hat. a stunning
black hat expressing the new move
ment toward height is pictured. This
hat has q very tall crown completely
covered by dropping black uncurled
plumes which stray over the hat like
Jets squirting from a fountain. Each
plume is weighted with set ornament
so that the feathers fall in Weighted
effect and do not blow about.
Black Hats For Dress Wear
This tall hat with plumes and Jet
danglers has very pleasing brim,
rolling up gracefully at one side, with
Just enough downward slant on the
other--a shape especially beloved by
French women who adore the chic
and saucy line Of brim turned up at
one side. All black hats are now con-
sidered dress hats and ordinary. every
day models are In color; one color. or
two colors harmoniously blended. The
bargain hat tables in the department
stores are not to have tho funeral ef-
feet OF other years, this fall-with
nothing but black hats in rows and
rows and rows. There will be hats Of
all tho eolors Of the rainbow including
new and elusive shades at the moment
10 fashions favor.
Another vasseln villetard hat in
all-blaek has roll brlm that rolls
considerably higher at tho front and
right side than at back and left side.
This brlm Il OF velvet like the rather
low crown and wide black MORE rlb-
bon is run through slashes in the
ttm the ends tied In a huge sausy
bow 9t the risht, the crisp ends and
loops OF ribbon standing out above the
fi-ht ear
Niniche shapes Have Flaunting Tail
Feathers
4Haa.a .a. 40 HNn Far.rafH4s Isss.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02

tipped pins are placed in the hat so
that the little wings group together
IN enc place in mercury wing effect.
This sport ha: pictured is In soft gray,
the braid in gray ilecked with white;
and the galallth ornaments are rich
blue. Another model has coral col q.
ored pins.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02

slightly. This will give you two inchei
more waist measure in the belt ane
you can set in bit of tape or narrow
ribbon across the opening. Now sew
this new narrow belt 10 the bodice
along the line OF bastings--a little be-
low the hastings II you have fortunate-
ly left an excess OF material on tho
edge Of the bodice where it Joined the
belt. The looser waistband thus
achieved will make your bodice fall
IN straighter lines and the waistline
will be lower. Because Of this down
ward drag on the bodice the skirt will
remain the right length, even though
you cut bit or your belt. And you
will have graceful, straight back in
stead OF one eurving In at the back OF
the wais;line--an effect quite out OF
date.
SPORT SKIRTS EASY TO MAKE
IN GOOD many women who have
not time TO make all the sport
- skirts they need before going
away for the summer, and who cannot
afford TO buy expensive skirts ready
MADE, are carrying along material IN
their trunks and the skirts will be run
up by hand during vacation. A sport
skirt is the easiest thlng in the world
to make this year. Two seams to run
up at the sides and deep hem 70 be
put In with hand stltshes--Rnd the
straight skirt gathered TO n belt.
Pockets are not really necessary and
the plaekst opening comes at the side
seam opening. And such skirts are
so short that very little material 10
required. You can make three smart
skirts In no time at all: one OF white
flannel, one OF white linen and one Of
white striped novelty silk. And tho
cost will be much less than " you
bought the skirts ready-made.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02
PURE LINEN FLOOR COVERINGS
NOW

d" HE new linen rug, come in de-
hghtful oolorings that blend
harmonlously with any decora-
i've plan OF the summer home and
these rugs make IDEAL Backgrounds
Tor either mahogany or wicker furni-
,ure. They are good thick rugs that
lie nat on the floor and do not push
up into wrinkles. and they may be
used either side up. They have soft
rich texture and are exceedingly good
looking In addition to their cool. fresh
suggestion; and they are suitable Cor
the town apartment or for the ooun-
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02

OF the waist between closely placed
white buttons, and on the outer side
OF each sleeve Is short strip OF the
tueklng set between white buttons.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1921-08-02

- HERE are opposing forces
n among the Paris milliners. Some
81 of them are trying to introduce
W tall. slsyscraper hats for fall and
Evening star., 1921-10-16
UNTITLED ORDERS
.FORSTEELG GROW|N|
Volume of Business, How
ever, Not Encouraging.
Pig Iron Market Gains.

NEW YORK, October 15-While a
volume of business in steel has n,
improved as much as many had hope
for, the increase in the number
untitled orders reported by the Ste
Corporation has given the market
more confident feeling and a furthe
broadening of demand is anticipate
The reduction of freight rates II
iron ore is another favorable fcs|
ture, as ii is looked upon as fore
cast of lower rates in all commodities i
Prices are firm, especially for win
and sheets. and in some quarters adj
vances are anticipated.
The demand for pig iron has show
a noticeable improvement, and a]
stocks are small the tone of the mar
ket remains firm.
Copper Improvement Keeps Up.
In copper the improvement showr
recently has been well maintained
The amount Of actual business ha
been smaller, but there has been
continued good export demand, Will.
advancing prices have failed to bring
from second hands Manufacturers o
the central west as well as those y
New England are reporting some i'm
provement in the demand for prod
ucts, and increasing activity in thi
respect has naturally contributed L
lie stHeIdiy urn tone. OHeTlnRS o
electrolytic for October shipment ap
pear to have been pretty well absorb
ed. Lake copper is quiet. but steady
while casting is in light supply ant
firm, although demand is nearly al
for export.
Tin is steady, with only a moderat
trade. as buyers hesitate owing to tn
uncertain exchange situation AM
liberal stocks in the far east.
Lead remains quiet and is still wei
under the control of producers, tn
tone being firm.
Zinc is firm and active, all Offering
at 4.6O East st. Louis having bee
taken or withdrawn. Smelters nav
booked SO fully that they are now ou
of the market.
Anthony is firm on both spot an
future Shipment. partly owing to tn
increased import costs.
Evening star., 1921-10-16
SUGAR MARKET QUIET.

NEW YORK, October 15.-The raw
sugar market was quiet and no sales
were reported. Prices were un-
changed at 400 for centrifugal for
duty-free sugars. and All for CubaS.
Trading in raw sugar futures was
very quiet today. but new low rec
ords were established. with March
selling at 2.23. The opening was at
1 to points decline under scattered
local liquidation. but the loss was re-
gained on covering, and final prices
were net unchanged necember|
closed at 2.32; March, 2.25; May, 2.3I ;;
July, 2.44.
There were no changes in refined
sugar, with all reflners listing Oh the
basis of $50 for fine granulatcd, but
business was light. There were no
transactions in refined futures, and
closing prices were net unchanged.
with December at 5.35; March and
later months, $50. e.!
Evening star., 1921-10-16
NEW YORK COFFEE PRICES.

NEW YORK, October 15.-The|
market for coffee futures was very
quiet today. with fluctuations corre-
spondingly narrow. The opening was
2 to points higher on little cover
ing through commission house bro
kers, but prices later eased on reports
that some Santos shippers had ac-
cepted bids at slight concessions. De-
cember sold off from 7.70 to 1853, and
the market closed net 3 points lowerl
to i point higher. Sales were esti-I
mated at about 10000 bags Closing
bids: December. 7.64: March. 7.74;|
May. ISL; July. 7.s6; September, 7S3.
Spot coffee, quiet; Rio rs. 81 San-|
tos As, IL q al2i2. 4 sale of Santos|
As. part Bourbon, was reported in the
cost and freight market at lI.25,
American credits.
Official cables showed Rio cleared
$4,000 bags for New Orleans: Victoria
cleared $4,000 bags for the Cnitcd
States and 500 bags for Canada.
Evening star., 1921-10-16

ment shown by such trade barometers
as steel, iron, copper, textiles and oils.
Dealings in stocks were more evf-
IDENTIFY of professional origin, and the
demand for bonds slackened.
A very considerable proportion of
the daily turnover in stocks consisted
of minor domestic oils, whose irregu-
lar movements toward higher levels
resulted chiefly from successive ad-
vances in prices of crude and refined
products.
Many Issues Hesitant.
Steels, equipments and other issues
of like description were hesitant when
not heavy or reactionary. The Sep
tember statement of the United States
Steel Corporation recording the first
increase Of untitled tonnage in more
than a year seemed to be neatralized
by the unfavorable quarterly report
of Lackawanna Steel.
Motors. tobacco, rubbers and leath-
Evening star., 1921-10-16

federal banks are larger than at any
time in the past seven years, money
rates held relatively firm. Crop
moving requirements and extensive
payments to the federal government
contributed mainly to this condition.
Further collapse Of the German
mark to an unprecedented low level
and concurrent Generalization Of re.
mittances to central and eastern Eu-
rope. including Italy, were the dis.
Quieting features of the foreign ex.
changes. Sterling rallied buoyantly,
however. regardless of the more omi-
nous aspects Of the British industrial
and labor situation.
Evening star., 1921-10-16

ousies and rivalries among banke|
a club would do away with all q
remains.
Daily association, daily contact vi
a credit bureau that may some day
formulated and daily interchange
opinions could not but be helpful
the banking business.
Mr.. Spaid holds that bankers cl
would Immediately take preceden
and that membership therein wol
be demanded by representatives
banking and allied interests.
Mr.. Larner and the committee q
orally are in favor of tempors
location for the association and
probable co-tenants for the time
ing, the permanent structure to CO
when conditions are more favorable
The movement has taken a stro
hold on the committee itself, and tn
believe 1t will be favorably recei,
by bankers generally.
Evening star., 1921-10-16

ers owed their sluggish tendencies to
trade conditions. these suggesting
halt in the recent revival of those
industries. Sugars suffered addition
al severe depreciation for more or less
patent reasons.
Heaviness among rails, which later
verged upon actual weakness, was &C.
centuated by threatened labor trou-
bles arising from another proposed
cut in wages. Mediation by federal
authorities, it was believed. would
prevent a crisis.
Foreign Trade Report.
The September foreign trade report,
in which both imports and exports
disclosed a falling of about so per
cent in comparison with the same
month of 1920, merely confirmed fore
casts of informed observers, despite
the increasing outflow of cotton and
grains.
Although the reserves now held by
Evening star., 1921-10-16
NEW YORK DRY GOODS.

NEW YORK, October 15.-Cotton
goods were quiet. with prices fairly
steady in the gray goods division
Branded lines were quiet. with prices
firm. Yarns were firm. Lines Of hne
dress goods for spring offered out
during the day showed slightly
changed prices. Knit underwear was
quiet, with large advance sales of
athletic underwear. An official state
ment of the burlap shipments from
Calcutta to the United States In Sep.
tember showed volume OF S6,90O,o00
wards. or 100000 yards in excess of
early reports. Burlap markets were
easier.
Evening star., 1921-10-16
ANOTHER Low FOR MARKS.

NEW YORK, October 15.-German
marks made another low record to-
day preliminary quotations being
0.6775 cents.
Evening star., 1921-10-16

COFFEE MARKET STEADY.
NEW YORK, October 15.-Conee-
Rio No. 7. sM; futures, steady; De-
cember 1854; May, 7.S1.
Evening star., 1921-10-16
TURNOVERSIN IN WEEK
MAINLY minor OILS
Financial Markets Fail to
Keep Step With the Trade
Barometers.

NEW YORK. October 15,-The
financial markets this week failed to
keep step with the further improve
Evening star., 1921-10-16
THE WEEKS BOND MARKET.
Previous

Following summary of the fluctuations of the of active
New Exchange for the week ended yesterday
Indiana daily times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1914-1922, 1921-05-23
Costs Are Lower Now

If lower wage still BUYS as MUCH-or
MORE-why should it not be welcomedf
And that's what it WILL buy-what it al
ready DOES buy.
The statistics of the q. s. Department Of
Labor show steady and continuous DECLINE
in the cost of living beginning last summer
and STILL in progress, Food is LOWER
clothes are LOWER!
ALL prices are READJUSTING themselves
to new, lower, safer and more STABLE
LEVEL
And when EVERYBODY'S price has been
established at THAT level, as it will be, all
prices will bear the proper RELATIONSHIP,
one to the other, and the Road to Prosperity will
be clearl
Indiana daily times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1914-1922, 1921-05-23
How It Works Out

Labor is a PRODUCT and carries its
PRICE.
The price Of labor likewise enters into the
price of practically EVERYTHING ELSE we
buy.
From first to last it, as it builds up through
successive stages, becomes one of the LARGE
FACTORS in determining the FINAL price Of
any FINISHED ARTICLE of merchandise.
Raw material-plus labor-make the FIN
ISHED product
When we think of PRICES, in most cases we
think Of MERCHANDISE.
When we talk of HIGH prices, we think of
MERCHANDISE.
And when we talk of ADJUSTING PRICES
to new levels, we think of the price Of MER-
CRANDISE
But, since LABOR DOES constitute so large
and important PART of the PRICE of az
specified article, we must begin to think in te
Of LABOR when we consider PRICES.
Indiana daily times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1914-1922, 1921-05-23
And it is BETTER for EVERYBODY.

And it is BETTER for EVERYBODY.
To bring the lower prices UP to the wartime
prices would be to ADD to the COST Of living
for EVERYONE NO ONE wants THISl
TIC bring the high prices back in line with
level of OTHER prices, works hardship on NO
ONE-and produces sound, healthy, STABLE
condition.
Indiana daily times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1914-1922, 1921-05-23
Labor Went Up

What affects the price of a FINISHED
PRODUCT, affects at once the price Of the
LABOR that entered INTO it.
When many articles. much needed during the
war, rose vastly in price-LABOR was at once
AFFECTED
The price of LABOR went up, TOOi
And now, that the conditions which created
these high prices have PASSED, they are com
ing back down to a sane level, Of their own
WEIGHT.
And since LABOR is a PART of these prices,
it is SHARING in the ADJUSTMENT to new
LEVEL.
| 1t cannot stay up ALONE.
Indiana daily times. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1914-1922, 1921-05-23
Conditions Have Changed

as existed during the war; price inequalities that
DID exist could NOT exist
The war has PASSED the INEQUAL-
TILES are PASSING.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1921-05-12
LARGE CONTRIBUTION TO "MAkE IT A MILLION''
 CAMPAIGN EXPECTED

number of large contributions to the campaign to Make It Million for Birmingham Southern College" are expected to be reported at the luncheon of the members of the cen- tral committee today at 12:30 o'clock at the Old Colony clubrooms 1t the Tutwiler.
 One prominent business man. it is said, will endow a scholarship, the value of which will be about $10000. Through the means of this scholarship one student will be maintained at the college for all time. Another promi- 'nent business man will donate piece of property of considerable value, and a third has agreed to make contri- button of Liberty bonds.
 V At the meeting of the central com- mittee today, which has been called by Dr. Guy F. Snavely president of Birmingham southern college. sub committee will be appointed to arrange for .big dinner to be held later in the month just before the campaign is launched
 Captains and team leaders as well as workers, will be selected at the meeting of the committee today. s It is planned to secure contributions aggregating $300,000 in Birmingham and Jefferson county to add to the $700, 900 to come from the Christian Education movement. which will Make It Million for Birmingham- Southern College.'
The Birmingham age-herald., 1921-05-12
LARGE QUANTITY
 OF LIQUOR SEIZED

One hundred and nine gallons of corn liquor in cans, three automobiles, a Hudson Super-six, an Essex and an Overland, were captured and four white men arrested by federal pro- hibition officers on the Montgomery highway near Pelham early yesterday morning
 Reed Rogers, TIT Twenty second street south, Thomas Rogers 520 Twenty third street. south, Arthur .Gridel 1907 Twenty fourth street. north and oscar Brown, 22Q4 Avenue c, were placed in the county jail as the result of the raid, awaiting their arraignment before Kenneth Charlton, United States commissioner on charges of violation of the prohibition law. According to the officers, the Essex car was plotting the Hudson into Bir- mingham when both cars were inter- cepted by the officers who found the liquor in the Hudson car. A few mln- utes later the Overland car cana along and, when stopped. was also found to contain liquor. Twenty five gallon cans, one three-gallon can and one one-gallon can, all filled with the liquor, were seized.
 Tn the raiding party were T. c. Dews Jack Horton and W. F. Flu banks federal prohibition officers