The New York herald., 1921-02-13

the last world adventure. After him ad-
venturers may sigh for all the world like
Alexander. There will be no North Pole, no
Mount Everest to conquer
Who shall be chosen for leader of this
last great feat? When Sir Francis Young
husband, president of the Royal Geographi-
cal Society, announced that the political OBJ
stacles in the way of climbing Everest had
been removed. that preliminary recog-
nizance will be made the coming May and
that the actual attempt the summit will
follow in 1922, the name of the officer who
would be chosen to lead the expedition be-
came instantly worldwide question
Name of BHg.-Gen. Bruce
Comes First in the List
OF the names canvassed that of Brig.-Gen.
the Hon. c. G. Bruce comes first, and he is
likely to receive the coveted honor. He has
been the chief instigator Of the proposed
perilous ascent to the Himalayas' highest
point, 29,14O feet above sea level. He has
the reputation Of being the strongest man,
physically in the Indian army His feats of
strength, skill and endurance are among
the most popular topics of officers in the
Indian army from Kashmir to Bangaloe.
That he has sought the honor is well known
among the members of the Royal Geographic
cal Society. In a paper presented by him
before that society at its latest meeting the
doughty adventurer made no secret of his
wish to be the first to scale the highest peak
of Joma Kang Kar, local name of Mount
Everest. And he knows what the adventure
means, for in this paper Gen. Bruce made
resume of previous attempts to conquer the
mountain.
The Indian Army will enjoy the proudest
day of it's existence if Gen. Bruce is given
the opportunity to create mountaineering
record by the conquest of Everest He is
nearly fifty-five years old, the opposite of
the popular idea of an Indian Army general.
In civilian clothes he might be taken for a
bluff gentleman farmer. Six feet in height,
a huge chest and heavy mustache forbid
this mistake however, and suggest the
brigadier.
He Is a brother of Lord Aberdare and has
had a distinguished military career, having
been wounded in the war, where he saw SER
vice in the Dardanelles. Gen. Bruce radiates
geniality, is boyishly enthusiastic over work
and play and when surrounded as he likes
to be by crowd of juniors he loves to en-
tertain them with all sorts of army remnfs-
cences His celebrated paper on Everest
follows:
I'm 1893 I took part in mission which
was sent to Chitral from the Glgit agency
to place a new ruler on the throne of that
cial service officer and was keen on further
exploration. The mission was under the
leadership of George Scott Robertson, the
explorer of Kafiristan, and the second In
command was Sir Francis Younghusband.
Before the next proposal for an expedi-
ton was made there was very big gap-no
less than from 1898 to 1907-and in the in
terva1 the Tibetan expedition had taken
place, Lhasa had been reached by British
nd Puda md No for Ra vv1f in prsa
magnificent journey up the Bramaputar
had been made. Our knowledge of the north
side Of the Himalayas had been vastly In
creased. OF course, this expedition is insep-
arably connected with the name of Sir
Francis Younghusband. Curiously enough,
found myself in Chitral at that very time.
and think the president will remember an
urgent appeal from Chitral to join him.
actually received an answer that was too
far Off.
"The proposal that appealed to me and to
Sir Francis was the Everest group. We
finally attached this expedition to the Lhasa
expedition as fitting end. but our plans
came to nothing for political reasons.
Project Proposed in 1906 Similar
To the Enterprise Now Planned
"The next attempt was mooted in 1906
In that year I was at home and suggested
to Mr. Mumm at the Alpine Club that he
come out to India and see the Himalaya.
Dr. Longstreet was approached and the idea
attracted him. We soon formed ourselves
into committee of three.
"The Geographical Society made us a
liberal grant, and the president, Sir George
Goldie took infinite personal trouble to OBJ
tain for us the sanction of the Secretary of
State for India. Our attempt was TO be to
climb Everest by the northern slopes.
"Our project was precisely the same as
now proposed, and will roughly indicate Il:
To cross into Tibet to Khamba Jong and
then proceed via the Tingri Madam to the
north OF the Everest group and thence make
our attempt to climb Everest by the north
ern slopes.
I'VE should probably not have succeeded,
but we should have gained experience which
would have been Of value to subsequent ex-
petitions. This route has now been clearly
shown to be the most convenient, for II must
be remembered that we then wished and now
hope to establish a base as high as possible,
and as near as possible to Everest itself, and
that the camp should be replete with every
mountaineering comfort.
After ALL the route to II is but 100 miles
from Khamba Jong and our main interest
should be the avoiding of all unnecessary
exerton and difficulty until that camp is
established. After that time the intensely
interesting country including the gorge of
the Arun River and mountains east and west
Of Everest, could. hope. also be explored.
I'VE had certain advantages We had en-
gagged the two Brocherel brothers. than
whom no better guides have ever travelled
abroad. They had both been with DR..
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