Evening star., 1920-01-11
Play of Old Alex
andria, Produced in
Paris Before the War,
Has Given Designers
Opportunity to Revive
Gorgeous Costumes
and Colors of Egypt.
BY ANNE RFTTENHOUSE,

:" apt " iooh upon stage clothes
as something too theatrical for the
drawing room. the shop OF the coun-
try club
RMS condition. however. is slowly
undergoing change. The reason Is
obvious. The stage is making a fea-
ture OF It's clothes as well as its seen
cry. 1t employs great designers in
ooth departments. pays large salaries
to them. and insists that the, setting
snail be as significant as the acting.
To our dismay we find that the former
is often greater than the latter.
We are well aware that in France
the conditions are reversed Much
that the American woman adopts in
fashion in the farthest rural free de-
livery route has been exploited by
some footlight favorite in Paris. The
production Of a new opera in Europe
has, often revolutionized women's ap-
parel.
rms was never more striking than
during the season when the Russian
ballet was the sensation Of the great
capitals Of Europe. In Paris IL was
received with that artistic enthusiasm
given to good artistry of any kind.
The dressmakers reaped harvest
from these Russian plays. Their in
fluence lasted for years and we are
not yet fully emerged. Tracing back
one-quarter Of the fashions that have
sprung upon the world and caught 1t
In strong grip. one finds that some
theatrical expression Of art in clothes
ana scenery was the source Of each.
Two years ago the revival of an
opera gave the world ostrich feath-
ers. fur fringe, also superb head
dresses; and the introduction of
eighteenth century plays brought
back frills and furbelows, blue rib
bons and slim bodices. large hats and
curls.
We have missed this kind of inspira-
ton in America. The Russian ballet
was enjoyed as a spectacle, but it
came too late to influence the clothes
which we had already adopted from
Paris.
But there is always a time for
awakening, and the observers believe
that the hour has struck. America,
they think. will undoubtedly look to
The present production of "Aphrodite"
as q source Of inspiration for head
dresses, for combinations Of color,
md for certain complex lines of drap-
cry.
There Is fair evidence that New
York Is feeling the pull. Headdresses
IN individuals are quite splendid
they have been worn to the opera, to
arge dinners, and they grow in i'm
'ortance. They are costly. yet the
woman who Is determined to be in the
ashton can find among her possess
ions number of things that will go
oward making a sumptuous bit of
merry for the hair. and the average
roman likes to concoct and wear such
~ aI,4 h *.4
Sumptuous as is the American pro- 4
uction Of this famous play Of old '
Egypt, 1t has not been attended in a
lew York by any Of the extraordi- o
ary sensations Connected with it's 4
ppearance in Paris g
1t was given there In the spring of
914 and was the last great stage pro- I
uction In Paris. The war came three 7
lonths later and wiped out every ves- q
ge of such gayety and artistic en- v
eavor. France has not had the spirit r
r the free talent since then to pro- I,
uce another such play. Therefore it a
i'll always remain In the mind of "
ne Parisienne. as well as the Amer n
ans who were fortunate enough to ii
g there. as a kind of apex of bril-
ancy before the smash. 1t thrilled W
i Of France and much of England d
eople came from london. Rome and t,
erlin t6 see 1t! - it,!itt
1t was etiie 'rehearsals. however.
lat tlfet more essensAtionaI events oc- a
irred. We who have to recount n,
lshfons had finished the daily work t.
viewing the exhibitions at the II
feat houses which were showing rt
owns to the American buyers; the in
,ring had come to the Bois: the ls
ghts were mild and full of oeca- d,
onal showers; and the rehearsals for Il
lie great production were going on. al
The papers were filled with stories v,
bout the entire affair. To be admit ty
d to the theater during rehearsals al
n ~ uks~.x~ -.