Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1920-07-09

crease in wages throughout France.
But assuming, which is more than
fair, that the deterioration of the franc
has a different meaning for French and
foreigners, natives not ranked as really
wealthy are not barred from occasional
indulgences in the classic restaurants
which have helped to make Paris
unique. A luncheon or dinner of the
premier class in these establishments
may be had today for the total expendi-
ture Of about thirty francs for two per-
sons. And the cost will include light
wine.
THE American, who had refused to be
L depressed by the official lament from
Paillard's, was fortunately situated, as
other tourists this summer must be.
with a treasury of cheaply bought
francs. He sampled the "boeuf la
mode" and found the humble dish from
takes it's name transmogrified, as OF
yore-a toothsome delicacy.
He rediscovcred sole a la Marguery
and learned that 1t was untouched by
the world upheaval. The wonderful
white asparagus of Argenteuil could be
obtained again us in ante bellum days {;
the tender "crepes," fragile pancakes,
cooked in fragrant liqucur; the arti-
choke bottoms. crowned with truffies :;
the incompatible 'poulet dc grain,' a
fowl whose very soul is tasty; the lamb
"of salt meadow the little pastry
"boars" laden with wild Strawberries,
the 'dripped" coffee-all, all were there,
the old familiar morsels.
I.aperouse. Marguery, Wan, Lavcnue,
still haunted by the youthful, self in .
dulgent ghost of Stevenson, opened hos
pitable doors. The Tour d'Argent, i'm
mortalized by Frederic, of whom it was
said he analyzed tender duck as Ibsen
did the characters of his dramas, re
sumed enumeration of its enticing
''plate Of the day
The Americans particular duck was
44.672. Tho figure would have been
higher. but war laid its comprehensive
hand on "Fredcric's However, the
staff and proprietor emerged safely from
the fray. The cleaning duck -crusher,
ruthless as the guillotinc, is cXultantly
ut work again. Prosperity abides at
the quaint, secluded Quai. de la Tour
nellie.
"You see," explained the waiter,
blithe as the scrvitor at Paillard's was
rescntful, "the restaurant Tour d Ar
gent married the daughter of the Cafe
Anglais." What a wedding that must
have been! An older generation re-
members the Anglais. The pathos OF
distance makes it unapproachablc.
But Foyot's is quite as venerable and
is alive. "Unto each man." recent
writer has said. ''native or alien. who
knows his Paris, God grants but one
restaurant. though it is never the
same" The Americans zone" was
Foyot's, consecrated to rock ribbed
conservatism of certain French senators
who attend the legislative palace near
by.
Confirmed Tories are fatuous in many
ways. but no one ever called them bad
Judges of a good dinner. The irony OF
his situation was to the American, who
confesses to being reasonable" rad
ical, almost as delicious as the master
pieces in cookery which the humane
benefactors at Foyot's set before him.
The benign and slender skein Of his
thoughts was not woven around the
League of Nations. 1t carcssed thu
dim conception of a league of cooks
That is, it did until he realized that
internationalization was impossible
For the art which these necromancers
embody is and ever will be French.