Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-06-06

with her eel-like body, her slender face
and vivacious manner.
! The woman who has lines in her face
and whose body is Of average height
and slender will find such hats espe-
cially kind and concealing, for they
soften the features OF the face and
shadow it's lines.
The constant mistake that the Amer;
can woman makes when she IS OF mid
| die age, when her face shows the marks
.of time, is to insist upon the turban
| that reveals every unkind defect and
allows her eyes to meet the glare OF
| the sun as II she were fresh young
eagle. Yet the turban and the hat that
turns away from the brow is the choice
of the average mddle-aged American
woman. Nothing can dissuade her from
| it. She will not shadow her face.
! The wide brimmed hat that tips
down at each side is in high fashion,
1 yet it is a dangerous shape for the
average woman to treat with uncon-
Germ.
| 1t is a hat that belongs to youth and
| the only woman above thirty who can
wear it is one who has retained her
fatness of her shoulders.
There is a tendency to trim these
hats in such manner that the down.
ward tip at the side is accentuated.
Heavy roses are made to droop over
| the brim and touch the shoulder. Lace
wells are gathered to buckles of Jade
or jet at the side of the crown. with
the ends trailing over the top of the
arm, pulling down the brim as they
pass it's edge. Picturesque hats these,
and lovely over the right faces, but they
/ are not for the majority.
Even those who adopt them should
have the wisdom which teaches them
| to wear the right sort of gown with
| the hat. The neck must be bare and
| there should be transparent fabric over
the shoulders or thin fat fichu Of mus
| lin or lace.
] Such shapes in straw do not go with
] an elaborate afternoon gown made of
geoEgette crepe or satin, but they do
go with frocks Of taffeta. Of embroid-
cred batiste or pastel-colored wolfe.
! There is strongly individual miIliner
in New York who insists upon doing the
unusual. He likes to revive particles OF
fashions. When "Florodora" was pre-
sented on the New York stage as a re-
vival of Importance this milliner came
out with the Gibson sailor. Not that
the hat was part of the opera. but 1t
went along as one of the movements OF
/ that day
The Gibson sailor was created by
Charles Dana Gibson. the artist, and 1t
remained dominant part Of American
fashion for decade. 1t was once re-
1
vived again with prestige back of it.
| You can get it at any price at any
shop. The hat OF other days was
trimmed with a band of black ribbon
arranged in fiat bow at the side, but
the new hat has crown band of col
ored silk jersey and the brim is faced
with it.
| 1t is a difficult hat to wear, but it is
supposed to be especially attractive in
connection with the American face. II
is an interesting experiment to try il
over the new type of American face,
of "Florodora" and the Gibson girls
Why? Possibly because the incoming
of millions Of foreigners since that
time has decidedly changed our struc-
! ture and our characteristics. That is
question for the student. not for the
observer.
There is no doubt that this shape OF
hat, this severe sailor, will be widely
taken up by those who wish a simple
hat during hot weather. one that does
not fade and does not require an elabo.
rate frock in conjunction with it,
1t may be used more in the city thar
in the country for this very reason II
should not be an over popular hat, be-
cause 1t does not suit the ma jority OF
faces, but with the extraordinary fac
ulty that our women possess in COM
mon with the lghtning-change arts,
to assume various, faces with various
fashions. it may be that the Gibson
sailor will suit moro heads than 1t die
in the old days.
1t is not a cool hat, and the woman
who insists upon wearing on her head
a covering that gives no weight and
does not produce moisture in the hair
will avoid the heavy straw sailor She
will search for the thin hats of horse
hair and Batavia straw, which is a
lcheap sister Of horsehair, and she will
also go back to the thin openwork hats
which were once made fashionable by
Mrs. Castle when she danced.
No observer of hats fails to speculate
on the exceeding popularity of fragile
white lilies Of the valley as an -urfia:
ment for black hats.
The fashion started up in the begin
ming of the spring at an exclusive
house and a high price was asked fol-
the hat that bore the lilies. In a