Evening star., 1920-04-04
Queen Mary of England Ruled Against the Court Train and the We'd
ding Gown Follows Along the New Fashion Lne-Paris Dress
makers Send Over Bridal Styles With Lavish Use of Lace

shouio cover II with chinon, lace or elk
net.
This process Of draping satin Is desir.
able In summer. The Easter bride, as
well as her companions OF June. can for
sake the unadorned fabric In order to
give to summer its due. Heavy lace
should be ignored, and in it's place tho
shops offer thin weaves that have been
available for half dozen years. also
rev revivals OF old patterns which have
come into being since the lace makers
OF France have found time and heart
for the work which they have done for
centuries.
Surely II isn't necessary to counsel
any woman to avoid cheap lace. She
has learned to omit it from her under
linen and she can be trusted to keep
1t away from the folds of her wedding
gown.
She should be more seriously warned
against the temptation to drape the
gown with heirloom lace in profusion.
A gentle touch is good A fare Of such
lace can be spread over the hips in the
peasant manner, which continues in
fashion. and there is usually a place on
the bodice where a short flounce or COL
lar can be applied. carelessy, with an
orange blossom or two.
More is burdensome. A short figure
Is weighed down by a profusion of lace,
tall figure is made to look like a show
case. The mother of the bride is apt
to be the offender. She may have worn
hounces Of this lace in her day. She
may have sentiment that ignores fash
ion. The daughter being without the
sentiment and delighting in the hours
demands, is the one to show the will
power. She must be prosaic, not ro-
mantle.
Entire lace frocks are quite in the
limelight. but they are built of lace that
took the cobweb as its guide and ex-
ample. Such frocks are expensive, but
they manage to help pay for themselves
by serving for parties after the wedding;
this. the average bridal gown will not do.
Chiffon is a covering for satin that
should be better appreciated by the
bride who seeks a filmy frock that
echoes summer and is not costly. 1t
need not cover every inch of the satin:
II the material beneath it is sufficiently
good to be revealed, the chiffon can
take unto itself all those convolutions
which the dressmakers usually reserve
for lace. 1t swings about the figure
with commendable grace. and it is not
opposed to the long veil Of tulle.
The other choice among fabrics for a
wedding gown that is to be worn in
warm weather is the type OF silk net
~ t~h hoo haA &. -
founded with tulle. The latter has too
much dressing in the beginning and as
soon as it turns serviceable it loses its
freshness
A slim foundation of thin satin-and.
by the way, one does not need the heavy
handsome weave Of the fabric when it
Is 10 be covered-with a full overskirt of
silk net is essentially giriish.
1t should not be draped in Grecian or
classic lines, but follow the Spanish
hoopskirt idea, revealing the sharpened
silhouette beneath. That is a lovely
fashion, however it is taken. 1t belongs
to the orient. where the seven wells be-
gan. Modern fashion created ugliness
out Of fullness. for it deformed the figure
and destroyed slenderness: ancient fash
ion blended fullness and narrowness in
its most beguiling form by placing them
in sharp contrast to each other. The
one offsets the other.
Few brides have an established prefer
ence for the cut Of the bodice Of their
wedding gown. They drift with the tide.
What others do, that do they.
Fashion changes in its approval OF
the low bodice, and that Is the stumbling
block that most brides run against.
They had not given serious thought to
the outline OF the neck. Their thoughts
and preferences dwelt upon the train,
whether it was to be short or long, and
upon the fabric and the length of the
skirt.
Suddenly they are confronted with the
necessity Of finding out what Is the
present verdict on the decolletage; is 1t,
or is 1t not low? The answer this sea-
son is in the Affirmative. The collar
having vanished from the majority Of
blouses. there Is no reason to reinstate
1t In the wedding frock.
The deeply decollette gown was ac-
cepted by all types Of women when
weddings were arranged for the evening
hours. They still take place after dark
In the south and in many western towns,
~vharo tho event In one ~ ovcauaiva