The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-03
by ANN RITTENuOUsE.

the war In the cheapness and
poor quality of the materials used,
was the opinion of woman who
knows her Paris and it's clothes. One
is used to such prodigality in the
house that 1t was a shock to see the
velvets and ftirs that few years ago
Cabot would not have touched with
forty foot pole.
She further says: There were not
many new notes to be CLEANED from the
fifty or so models shown. One found,
as usual, several wearable afternoon
gowns in damaSk brocade, and two or
three velvet evening gowns. sisters of
those we have bought other seasons,
only formerly the colors were ex-
uuisite. the materials superb. The
price for the simplest of these was not
1000 francs. So naturally the woman
with caution and common sense
thought twice before paying 1000 to
5000 francs for second edition of
what she had last season. Especially
was this true If one's eye had become
accustomed to the simplicity of the
herself or those shown by Renee,
Chanel or Vionnet. The Cabot collec-
ton struck the American as having
far too much heavy embroidery. big
flowers and tinselled lace and metal
brocades which other houses have dis
carded except for evening cloaks.
The Cheruit showing was more In
teresting from every point of view; 1t
A.. e.
time past. There were several new notes
here and for the slight figure that car
support draped lines the clothes shown
were on the whole good. but. of course.
more than ninety per cent. OF the Amer
leans would much prefer, and would
look more comfortable, in Jenny gown
Here, with Cheruit. 1t was such
Joy to come back to the pre-war quail
ity In everything in furs, materials and
laces. The furs were shown much more
sparingly than in former years, but II
mink, ermlne or sable was used 1t was
real. Of the first quality.
The afternoon suits built by Cheruit
are of stiff silk velvets. in sage green
or the lovely gray beige that Cheruit
has favored. The quality and pale color
of this velvet make 1t unhecomins. 1t
Is not practical. On account of its white
blouse II is not costume that an Amer
fCan WOULD DC f1iDPy III lOi UAAh9t VI :"
reception.
one of the suits costs n fortune be-
cause of the velvet. It's just the kind
of n suit the American woman could
rarely wear. One has to live the luxuri-
Gus existence of the Parisienne or Con-
tinental to make It even possible; shop
ping In the Rue de la Paix and Place
Vendome is not Fifth avenue. There
fore. II Is possible that Cheruit did not
a.. 70 fnT a
American buyer.
SIX damask brocade gowns made
decided impression. Not one metal
brocade showed itself. These silk bro
cades were mostly for semi-evenfng
gowns. for the theatre or afternoon
rayeties For formal evening gowns
velvet was the favorite, used alone or
combined with lace. AS Tor lace.
Cheruit repeatedly INDUCES in II, dyed
IN brilliant colors. Black crepe Is
trinmed or covered with copper red.
brilliant green. orange, tete de negre or
citron yellow lace. In design Ii Is the
kind used so much in black. and which
Is silky and Spanish in texture.
Cheruit shows one theatre dress III
white lace, the Spanish kind with two
huge black and white crysanthemums
ot the waistlinc. made OF white waxed
toothpicks. sticking out like porcu-
your dancing partner
Much white made as appearance.
White velvet. white ribbed popiin' ana
white damask brocade were built INTO
rowns and wraps II was the pure
color. not cream, for Cheruit has always
employed this. A fair amount OF SHINING
silyer laces are combined with White'
Embroidery is almost. II not quiee,
eliminated at this house. except lot
cloaks.
The smartest of the coats ard cioaKs
arc white. embroidered in black. revers-
ing the idea Of the Lanvin coat OF iast
season which every other American
eeemcd 10 possess. Some are covered en-
tireiy with embroidery and with others
Il only goes 10 the hips
sleeves are wide and three-quarter
length. and there are no high collars'
Evening sleeves cover the top Oh Wy
arm and are in the material OF the irock
,tsolf. AS. for example. velvet gown
has velvet kimono sleeve stopping hait-
way between shoulder and elbow, even
ehortcr really. Evening gowns nave
trains of the thin fishtail variety.
There are many semi-evening gowns
with a high neck at back and low IN
front. But who would call mat an
evening gown at the opera or a large
dance In this country.
ono very striking afternoon gown
which was quite a favorite with INC
American buyers was In tango coioreu
r,;olrc with a wee scrap OF monkey FUR.
The draplng made it impossible except
for youngs'er.
wow that tho opening days are over
the collections stand. in order OF merit,
conrtnues the correspondent Hence
Cherult, Chenal and Jenny. It's Ike IN
the races, that you don't care what
ccrnes after the fourth place.
ct think the only two houses who
showed really quite long skirts, Premet
and Beer, will have TO wait Tor the
verdict OF the French woman before
pressing the fashion too far.
'Tf the parisienne will consent 10 let
rer waistiIne down TO where many of