The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-24
gypsy manner

by "The Unbelievables" during the Di.
rectoire. with its conspicuous cockade, Is
chosen by extremists, but 1t Is a most
difficult hat to wear. One must decide
to cross off more than a half hour of a
busy life to its daily adjusting.
Another type of hat which cannot be
worn at 10 in the morning nor quickly
adjusted is the modern Gainsborough
Ii is in black beaver or chow velvet
with flare of brown wings from the
flat side OF the brim or an eighteenth
century bouquet of small satin roses OF,
the upturned side. 1t is the largest
shape that has appeared since the Merry
Widow and demands face that knows
its own power
1t Is the type that goes with a bridal
party, the kind that serves at an after
noon reception where women are gowned
in their best. or a luncheon where cere-
mony Is expected. Milliners should COM
bine to make it tabood for 'the woman
who wants just a hat-one that will
serve all purposes
There is evidence aplenty that the mil
liners like the suggestions that come
from the era of turmoil. upsetting of
kings. and of wars. for they have Gre
ated several hats that are more familiar
to us from pictures than from existing
fashions. Portraits that hang In
Georgian halls In England show the hat
with its slightly dropping brim beneath
a rather portentous crown which Is
draped here and there until irregularity
was its seeming motive. This hat.is now
worn by women today.
1t Is here In that neutral and usually
becoming shade called tete de negre felt
with a crown band--which no Georgian
wore-of tiny cock feathers In brown
that has touch OF mahogany In It and
which droops over the right ear in the
manner adopted by fashionable plum
age.
That droop, by the way. is also Geor-
gian. 1t was a style that was carried
far into the nineteenth century. The
French have accentuated the fashion
with their to-be-expected touch OF au-
dacity and taken away from IL whatever
was sweetly simpering to give II the
ntrical air. 1t darts downward. II does
not fall gently and float into space.
This is beguiling fashion on young
nlatron who knows how to carry the
head with assurance, and this Is the
only type for which the Paris designers
care a tuppence. but II Is not the COM
mon American type. 1t Is here. but not
prevalent. Therefore. beware of this
swirl of flues, OF FURNISHED quilts, or
sharply from the upper brlm to the
shoulder as though in search OF tempt
ing PREF.
There is n liberal usage OF COCKS
feathers The italian sharpshooters
have not lost their SAVIOR In French
eyes, but every strand Is a potentia.
danger. There should be red lantern
hung over the flying feathers when a
careless woman Is around.
Hats That Sink over the Head.
Tempestuous as is the swirl OF differ
ent hats in shape. color. pose. and orna-
n.ent which beats against tho eyes when
one goes forth to choose a head cover
ing there Is an absence of one fashion
vhich once greeted us Mt every turn.
This Is the hat that sat well up on the
head TO show some of the hair. It's
revival had been promised along with
'Florodora" and Way Down East"
but the milllners hesitated too long.
Now there Is no chance OF II.
Whatever Is offered sets we'll down
on the head. Disobedience of this de-
cree puts a woman quickly out of the
fashion. It would make her more sub
ject to ridicuie than any other thing
che could wear. Whoever has a noble
brow must hide her vanity and her
brow at the Same time. She who fol-
lows fashion will make an effort also
10 hide the eyes. 1t is not always easy
to recognize ones best friend this sea-
son. The woman with small delicate
face finds II entirely eclipsed the
woman with a large. long face finds
this fashion the first aid to softening
that face.
With the fashion thus II Is necessary
Tor tho hats OF the winter 90 have wide |
rrowns whether they be high or low
There must be sufficient room In them |
70 permit the head with It's large Golf
'uro to rise into II. There are no hats
1t tho present hour that sffer q change