Evening star., 1920-11-21

n
fur year-the year when ever,
woman wore furs. In futur,
years. down the ages, theJ
may continue to do so. but this wa:
the first.
There never was so much ful
worm 1 said. why is SO: much fur
worm
Because furs are SO scarce" he an.
swered.
This is not fashion article, but q
story of world news. AS an old ParA
correspondent 1 make. it a duty. now
and again, 10 cut a notch as the great
periods rise and declare themselves.
All the leading Paris fur firms say
that they have sold more really haliu
some furs within the last year than
during any other one year OF their
experience. And if one could Judge
by the number OF fortunes in the form
of fur coats that were wrapped and
rewrapped about the = figure and
turned loose at Deauville last August
sables and silver foxes meant no more
than rabbits and goats.
OF precious furs. Grunwaldt is high
priest in Paris. That he should
deign to talk with me about this
other movement shows. above all. Its
historical nature. Grunwaldt is u
philosopher. And all that shall say
hereafter has been checked OF by
dreikovits.
Rabbits and goats. Wild cats and
house cats,
And very beautiful.
y +
Rabbits and goats. in truth. mean
more than any phenomenal sale OF
precious furs.
The craze is easy to understand For
Eve years of war and two years OF
countries were either cut of from
the world Uike Russia and Siberia)
Or suffered a reduction OF output
Iike Canada), bad connections with
the market U.eipzig. etc). and almost
complete cessation on the part of
women of the demand for precious
furs. During the war it was con-
sidered bad taste to appear in costly
sables and foxes. Now. it is rush
of reaction.
But. here. observe attentively.
During the war it was goat and
rabbit. Rabbits turned themselves
into all kinds Of furs-for the rich.
who desired TO register good taste.
And when. after strenuous trans.
formations. the rabbit did not take
UdCh SSots ny ihcdHS. OQl SdI.
rather. meditating new lodges. the
goat fairly butted into the ring. He
called himself "mouffion." but It was
only beginning. Youthful and ex-
pensive1y doffed up, he encroaehed
even on fhe Persian lamb or as
trakhan. $50; much so. that still today.
as 'mongof,s he is still seen in big
collars onsSevening wraps-"on the
most elegant cloaks." / hear the
ladies saying. "Moneo1 ana similar
skins at which formerly we would
have turned up dur noses. Hut this
mongo1 is now used in such q way
that 1t is like new fur. One would
not recognise 1t as the Mongol of
other days" "@7@A--~---.
= Thus. suddenly. from the mouths Of
story bursts upon us. II have more
understanding than all my tAachersw
quotes the fa11bft from the Psalnist.
war conditi6hA turned commerce.
science industfy aHd art to fur
bearing creatures previously unappre.
IT am black but comely. 0 ye daukh-
ters OF Jerusalem, My mothers chill.
dren were angry with me. but the
king hath brought me Into his cham
bers."
Thus Tin word) all women profit
by such war inventions. now that the
lid is of. Because. you see. COM
merce. arts and industry continue to
produce and improve-it is seen to be
srandly worth while.
Those who had never hoped to wear
"furs" when they meant "a sealskin
coat" now revel in fur stoles. collars.
"shawls,'' capes. scarfs. regalias. Sam
Browns. Scottish crayats" and entire
animals (which never were on sea OF
land) slung over their fair shoulders
Above all. they wear fur trimming on
their gowns-that lovely and becOm-
ing dodge which previously meant ,ex-
pense. expense and more expense.
Scarcely a woman in Paris. was
going to say. is unadorned with fur
trimming, at wrists or neck, on gown
or suit or coat or cape. You add fur
10 last years dress and it's a new
dress-any one can See-it has fur
trimmings,
The big shops sell fur in bands. to
be thus applied in home dressmaking
but recently. behind the scenes of a
grande couturiere. I heard fore
woman snap. hurried1y: Run to the
Printemps for two yards Of rabbit
sable. width six millimeters"
The bands run. currently. In one
yard lengths. from one e-half Inch to
four inches wide. You can have them
of Colombia style otter: of Australis
style mole or beaver: of genet style
skunks; of marmot (prairie dog); OF