Spirit of Jefferson. [volume] (Charles Town, Va. [W. Va.]) 1844-1948, 1920-10-19

Gown of taffeta and tulle, by Lanyin.
Its character Is fine and its tone is
one of beauty.
be to be right from the hem OF the
gown to the hip line and then to allow
the rest of the gown to remain plain
and unadorned, with only string
belt to suggest the place where a
waistline might be located.
The cape. or some variation of the
cape. is still popular among the Pa
risians. The cuts of these capes are
as diversified as the trimmings of the
chemise frocks, but always they re-
tain the same lines-straight, except
for a place at the front where they
are Rugged about the figure. A few
of the newer capes have sort of blousy
tops with skirt section joined to them
down about the legs or quite under the
hips. These, with their collars OF rur,
or with furry edgings, are the most
graceful of outer coverings.
Evening Frocks Are Draped.
Evening frocks continue TO be
draped and draped and then draped
again. A Partisan designer recognizes
no law in these her noblest works of
art, but she regards the figure and
what is best suited to 1t. Some of the
results are more perfect than others !:
few have positive marks of genius
The silhouette is straight-yes-bu
every now and then one sees bow or
out at the side or at the back or at
some other unexpected angle.
Many brocades are seen among the
newest evening gowns, and these are
draped always at new angle and In
new way. Generally speaking. 1t is
said that the skirts of evening gowns
are longer, but here strange breaking
Of the rule occurs, for many of them
are long at one side and shorter than
ever at the other, while others are so
constructed that the front and back
vie with each other in unevenness of
length. For the brocades there is no
trimming. They are enough in them.
selves, and as the materials increase
In beauty and richness, so do the de.
signs, until the whole effect is some
thing to wonder at. A draped evening
gown Is made of the heaviest of black
satin and Is held about the figure in
sweeping curves. Then there are two
long and flowing trains reaching far
below the hem Of the gown itself.
Lace Is Decidedly Popular.
Lace for evening gowns is quite the
thing. A lace evening gown Is made
with tiers of fiounces for the skirt.
and with a low backed lacey bodice
having only suggestions of short and
lacey sleeves. The lace Is black and
is made over heavy black satin; then
under the fine meshes somewhere
about the bodice a fold I'd. draped
length of cloth of gold is arranged with
subtle dizziness. There is a Ice train.
too, which is attached at the rather
high waistline and allowed TO swing
free of the rest of the frock until n
sweeps for matter Of a foot or SO
upon the floor.
Lace and cloth of gold or cloth of
silver is very sumptuous and popu-
lar combination among the Paris;ans
The draping of lace over this SHIN
mering, metal foundation is charming
and nothing has ever been better sult.
ed to the purposes of evening wear
The French hats of the season are
again low and tight. hugglng the head
so that the least of the couture shows
After the general close and cIInging
lines of the hats have been established
then they are subject to all sorts of
fancies-going up into the air or ont
into the breeze on either side or down
at back, with long sweep of featb-
ers over the lines Of the neck and
shoulders.