The Ordway new era., 1920-08-13

- L Is proposed TO add about l,Wp
square miles to Yellowstone Ma
tlorai park on the south legisla-
tion to this effect Is now pend
| ing in congress. This enlargement in
cludes the Teton range near the Idaho
| Wyoming line, Jackson lake and the
headwaters OF the Yellowstone river.
\ 1t will give Yellowstone National park
magnificent scenery of a kind 1t needs.
Grand Teton (13,T47 feeD, highest
peak of the Teton range. has been IA
nous as landmark since the days OF
| the early fur trade. Mount Moran.
| 11,10O, on the west side of Jackson
| lake. has never been ascended, ac-
cording to local belief.
In Country Life Leroy Jeffers. A.
c., F. II. G. s.. secretary of the bu-
reau OF Associated Mountain Clubs of
North America. tells OF his ascent Of
Mount Moran. His narrative runs:
My wife and l entered Yellowstone
park by its scenic eastern approach
through Shoshone canon. climbing
through tunnels in its towering walls
of gray and pink.
hAAtA ithtNiib my
with the exquisitely colored Grand
canon of the Yellowstone, we ascended
Mount Washburn for its comprehen-
sive view OF the park. Visiting the
hot springs and geysers, we finally
| left Old Faithful for the hamlet Of
Moran on Jackson lake, 20 miles to
the south.
As the Grand Teton had already
been climbed. I was more interested
In the possibilities of Mount Moran,
which was said to be 'unclimbable.
II. NJ. Albright, superintendent of
Yellowstone park. had just viewed 1t
from various sides. everywhere fnd-
ing sheer cliffs. In August, 1917, a
considerable party assembled as far as
the glacier on It's eastern face, which
they named Huntley glacier. 1t was
then reported In the Scientific Amer
lean of March 80. 1918. that "the
summit has never been attained, and
probably never will be, as the last
1900 feet Of the mountain are sheer
perpendicular walls of rock" Ben
Sheffield. who is the local authority
on the mountain. told us that he had
spent many years In hunting sheep
on its crags. always searching for a
route to the summit, but always
turned back by unscalable cliffs. He
recounted thrilling experience in
which he nearly lost his life. and had
come to the conclusion that the noun
tain could be ascended only by driving
staples into the cliffs.
Danger From Stones.
These reports made the mountain
seem all the more interesting, and we
left Moran at eight o'clock that eve
ming for the nine-mile trip across
jackson lake. Impressed with the
warning TINT the walls near the
glacier could not be climbed, We de-
cided to investigate the northern face.
and we landed as far to the right of
the central mass of the mountain as
It seemed safe for us to go in the
boat
1t was after l p. IN. on a hot day, a
most unfavorable time for n serious
climb on any glacial mountain, for the
sun had long been melting the snow
on the heights. Already the glacier
was strewn with newly fallen rocks,
but l passed on, jumping the open
assures and sounding In the snow
with my ice-ax where there was dan
ger of concealed crevices. / found
delicate work In crossing the Berg
schrund and surmounting the cliff
above 1t, for l had to descend into
the edge of the chasm where there
were great passageways and caverns
of blue and green leading up to un-
fathomed depths into which one might
slip. The greatest danger, however
was from falling stones. which were
whizzing with tremendous speed down
the cliffs TO the glacier. and I was
not eager to intrude on their line of
fire.
Ascending the grizzly walls of the
cirque, l reached the summit Just ns
n giant mass of rock. tons In weight,
came bounding and crashing down
from unseen heights In tremendous
avalanche which passed within few
feet of the trembling rock on which
stood. AS the rocks followed the
route of my ascent and spread over
the entire glacier below me. 1t seemed
unwIse to continue my climb, and
reluctantly retraced my steps. Thus
far my climb had involved only su,l
technical difficulties ms are In the
days work of any competent noun
talpcer. but 1t is safe rule never to