Evening star., 1920-01-18
pple Leather Goats Replace Those Of Cloth

tive costume and should be given more
popularity we took up jenkins OF tan
velvet. belted them with embroidered
sirtlles, and used them much in the
same way that warrior of the mid
die ages used his breastplaie. The
sleeves that emerged from the sides
Of the leather jerkin We're sometimes
Of knitted wool. belonging to a sweat
er or u frOck.
These breastplates OF heavy tan
leather have proved effective in win-
ter sports worn over gowns of ribbed
wool in the green of spring trees, and
there are green ribbed stockings and
heavy tan brogans to complete the
costume.
The observer feels that this con-
slant use of leather on the street in
the form of jackets and skirts is a
harbinger of spring fashions. 1t may
be that when the warm days arrive
we will talks up the French idea
which will then be nearly year old
10 make blouses of perforated kid and
trim choffon frOcks with it; but at
The present moment we are more con-
cerned with combating the weather
and we find that leather does that
very well.
Last season a woman wore her
brothers army coat. put beneath It
any old skirt she possessed. and call
ed 1t rainy-day costume. But the
tailOrs have taught her better than
that They have brought out num-
Der OF rainy day coats in leather and
whole suits Of it in order that the
tailored suit, which is such great
expense these days may he saved for
highdays and holidays, or rather, for
sunshine and dry streets. Instead of
the army coat. heavily made and
clumsy in appearance, the tailors Of
fer leather jackets cut to the figure,
made OF supple kid, with belts. pock-
cts. high collars, and decided femi-
nine air.
The smart thing is to have a whole
suit of leather, the skirt cut exagger-
atedly plain and short with seams
down each side, the hem just touch-
ing pair of heavy leather boots put
over tan cOlored wool stockings: the
jacket above the skirt is double
breasted and has army pockets that
really carry bundles. This suit can be
crumpled up in the hand. If the
jacket is not warm enough for bit
ter day. one slips a brushed wool
sweater under it.
The woman who cannot afford a
whole suit OF leather tries to content
herself with the jacket: but she no
longer wears this with any old kind
of skirt that hangs in the wardrobe.
She obtains thick English homespun
skirt made with wide, tapped seams.
four rows of stitching, and a deep
hem either broadly stitched or invisi-
bly, caught.
The tailors are not hesitant in offer.
ing knee-length and hip-length leath-
er coats rs substitute for cloth
coats. They seem to be able to get
hold of the jackets OF leather easily
and, therefore, spare themselves the
time. labor and expense, to say moth
ing Of the irritation and disappoint-
ment, Of having q coat made in the
workrOOms.
Every woman knows that a tailored
Jacket issquite the most dificult gar-.
ment to get right in the whole gamut
Of women's apparel Thousands OF
tailers boast perfection along this
line, hundreds fall short OF it,. Some
who boast do not know how to put
in a sleeve, others who demand high
prices do not know how to arrange q
shoulder seam. those who insist that
no one is superior to them often get
an underarm seam too short and are
not sufR1ciently competent to COM
pletely fiatten the hem Of the jacket.
and there are literally hundreds who
do not know how to pose a collar.
1t lis at the armhole and the collar
that the vast majority of tailors fail.
To pay $500 for. a coat suit today
does not guarantee one a perfectly
posed collar nor sleeve that hits
the wrist at the right place. And
think OF $S08 for suit!
If men had to pay that price there
would be a revolution. Women pay it
throughout the cities of this eont,-
uent. and though they protest, they
do not countermand the orders.
A mans suit consists Of three pieces,
while a woman's suit has only two;
the skirt Of a woman's tailored suit
Is not as difficult to make as trousers: