New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1920-08-08
Lavish Trimming

NhE tIunHilHS TAXES prece-
dence over the silhouette.
Il This is the thing that strikes
one most forcibly in the late
models. Many of the old forms of
trimming are cast aside for EN-.
hroideries, which are used so Law
;shly that we wonder where all the
workers are coming from to turn
ont so much of this needlework.
It Is unfortunate to run to an ex-
travagant use of any mode Of or
namentation. No one can gainsay
the decorativeness of beautiful en-
broidery, but it, like anything else,
becomes commonplace when too ex-
tensively used.
One reason for using so much
trimming may be because the sill
houette has changed so slightly de-
signers have felt tina. this is the only
way of offering something new.
Straightline dresses are covered
with embroidery, the stitches being
placed so closely together that it
is almost impossible to discern the
patterns. Coats and hats show quite
as much embroidery as do the
frocks.
It IS surprising to see such
costly use of trimming directly fol-
lowing so many movements toward
economy. 1t would seem that any
effort toward economy in dress is
Ike swimming against the current.
With what measure Of success these
dresses viii meet it is difficult to
say. They must necessarily be ex-
pensive with so much needlework
ornamenting them.
All Kinds of Things
Used for Embroidery
VERY unusual are the things used
to work out embroidery de-
signs. A chemise frock of satin has
the entire front and back portions
overlaid with huge clusters of
grapes embroidered in natural COL
ored wooden beads Steel nailhead
embroideries in conjunction with
0rght red silks are used to orna,
ment daytime frocks of dark blue
Poiret twill.
The house Of Cabot has always
been famous for its beautiful en-
broideries, and the themise frock
featuring this type Of trimming is
not new with this firm. When al
most every other dressmaker went
In for various degrees of hip ex-
tended skirts the Callots held to
the straight and narrow way of the
silhouette.
A Callot frock on which much
embroidery appears is shown at the
upper right of the sketch. 1t is a
beltless chemise of black satin with
the design worked in bright blue,
copper and old red with here and
there CLINT Of gold threads. The
back Of the dress is embroidered in
exactly the same manner as the
front portions.
The seated figure at the left Of
this model shows a gown of black
satin IN chemise style, completely
covered with a wonderful embroid-
cry done in gold threads and crystal
beads. The flowers at the bottom of
The skirt are done with very coarse
waite silk in stitch that gives them
'he appearance of Turkish towelinp.
inspiration Is Drawn
from the Greek ORES.
EHE same house is quite as famous
for its drapery as for embroid-
cries While beautiful drapery is
essentially simple, an effect Of ex
IRENE elegance can be obtained
through it when It is handled by an
artist Many of our own American
aFessmakers are showing a prefer
eace for drapery in the models which
they sre constructing for early
autumn and have turned to the
''eek dress for their inspiration.
A dress from this house showing
beautiful drapery is at the extreme