davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29
When the Templars
Dehed the World

TT was near here. too. that the
black and white banners of the
remplars in their MONDAY of pride
and ferocity spoke defiance to the
world. Within sight to the south is
Collie Juan. where Napoleon landed
i'll 1915, coming direct from Elba
to this point in France. Thus his
tory, political, romantic and religi-
Gus, serves to make an interest for
all the world at this alluring spot.
Small wonder, then, that here this
social season should open with un-
wonted brilliancy. Many women
wore their long sable mantlea, but
left them swinging open to show
heir charming new frocks in bright
or dull hued silks. These fur man
ties are still being worn on tho Ri.
viera, because after four in tho af-
ternoon a cold wind springs up, and
It one IL driving In an open car or
standing about It is absolutely nec-
assary to have a warm wrap.
Several new cloth coats were seen.
Sketches OF two Of these are shown
to-day. A beautiful color effect ia
carried out In the loose. wrappy coat
OF putty-gray burclla worn over q
frock Of bright tartan silk In which
red, black and white are blended.
The coat when thrown open reveals
a lining OF the same silk as that
used for the frock. The bright color
- again introduced through pipings
Of red patent leather, which appear
on the pockets, sleeve trimming
and about the collar.
Two Shades Of Tan
Give a New Effect
RY using two shades Of tan for
tho second topcoat, one eop-
perry and tho other \ fawn tone, an
entirely new effect !s obtained. The
cloth selected for this model Is duve-
Vn. the copper color being used for
the coat itself while the fawn shade
makes a standing collar which is set
inside the rolling shawl collar Of
copper colored cloth, while the turn
back cuffs over the very loose sleeves
sre Of the lighter toned material.
The coat is lined with a pale fawn
'h'd' and the frock w9rn with It is
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

Lanoin model Of blue taffefo
with elaborate Cxecho-Slavic en-
brotderies on the panels and stand
ing collar. The full bishop
slesves and high ehokev collar
are sery nesv features
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

+ resD cloth coat svorn on the
R1eiera is Of putty-gray bureila
trimmed svifh red patent leather.
II is sVorn with smart plaid
six dress in red, black and u'hite
the lining Of the coat being Of the
same tartan
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29
A Marked Flare
In the Slavic STYLE

ALTHOUGH the dress /. in che.
mise form 1t is gored at the sides
to give a marked flare, after the
Russian or Slavic style. The girdle,
which is a narrow one, passes unde,
instead Of over the embroidered
panels. Thus, though the figure is
tightly girdled. the ovsrhansino
strap OK panel gives a straieht-l;ne
figure. The panels and collar srs
ornamented with elaborate Czecbo
Slavic embroideries.
Both Lanvin and JENNY sr.
strongly advocating the full length
sleeve and the high collar In their.
simple silk dresses designed for
afternoon wear. Jenny eharminelv
combines printed chiffon with fou-
iard IN simple chemise frock. The
upper part of the dress and narrow
foundation skirt are both Of tho
printed chiffon, the pattern Of which
Is graduated spot design IN black
on white background.
The lower part Of the skirt tun;c.
the high turnover collar and thu ,,r
dersleeves. which peep from beneath
the very short black and white chiffon
sleeves, are Of cerise foulard with
the spot motifs in black. The chiffon
blouse portion is Joined to the fou.
lard tunic in a Van Dyke outline by
means Of opsnwork. A little or.v.t
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29
Type Of hedddress uery much N
cosue, consisting Of eorones form Of
hrim, sulls cap and Paradise sp,dy,
Nice Sets the Pace
IL Of tho clothes shown TO-
day were sketched at Nice
: exclusively for this page.

The opening of the raco.
course at Nice and the presence of
many prominent visitors, among
which the American contingent did
not lack full representation, mean
a brilliant social season, which in
turn signifies an assemblaSe Of
lovely clothes.
No more beautiful background
Tor clothes is to be found In tho
world than Nice, situated "a 1t
10 on tho border Of thu Medi-
terranean, just where the Var
River, a mountain stream of great
beauty and swiftness, flows into
the sea. The long range of YER
dant mountains, the Alps-M Mari
time, are directly visible from the
grandstand. The beauty of sea.
sky and land Is spread before the
eyes. The Var valley leading off to
the west and north is fragrant with
blossoms and full Of historic interest
and romance.
Not far up the rambling course of
this river is the little Church of the
Madeleine, where Mary Magdalen
and Lazarus are said to have
preached the gospel to handful Of
Christian refugees. All Of this strip
of Celto-Ligurian coast Is intimately
associated with the earliest history
Of the Christian Church.
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

the sketch. In It there is striking
illustration OF how beautifully the
new soft tafPetas may be used to
make straight-line dresses. In this
instance dark blue taffeta is chosen.
Ihe sleeves are In bishop or peasant
style, striking contrast to the verv
short zap sleeves. The round hiph
collar in choker form is in direct
opposition to the low neck, collarless
f1ock.
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

This supported veil was narrow
"'' oss tae front, but. spread to form
wide wings at the sides. The ve,,
was almost like second him. At
the right side Of the front were
posed three tiny ostrich D tunes in
Jet black. These were Of he burnt
and slycerined type which makes
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

the ostrich frond almost a. fine a..
aigrette.
"A very smart tailored hat in white
hemp had brim facing of red satin
cire ribbon. the facing of the round
ing brim being formed by bands of
the ribbon- which By overlapping COW
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29
A Veil Almost
Like a Second Brin,

HERE were several very pretty
veil trimmed models. One from
Lewis was of black cellephane braid.
cut In fine strips to simulate glossy
Belgian straw. 1t had a direct roll
in front and carried a wired border
veil OF black Point do Paris pattarn
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

belt starts from either side Of the
center back and ties at low waist
line at each side Of the front.
New Hats as Plentiful
AS Blossoms in Spring
NEW hats were as numerous as
spring blossoms. the cellophane
or varnishsd bYaids scoring a biz
success. Very little Is being used ex-
cept these glossy hats solidly en-
bEoldsrsd or appliqued in bright.
eontrp sting colors. The narrow brim
sailor, the draped beret and the
small round shape which has a roll
Ing brim and decidedly conical
crown were the shapes most favored
Charming round turbans in beret
style, made Of black cellophane
were seen with elaborate embroid.
cred designs done in dyed raffia and
tan color cotton th.eads In chain.
stitch.
One Amazon walking hat worn
was developed in alternating bands
OF black cellophane and bright green
satin pipings. Two simple loops of
cellophans braid piped and lined
with green satin made up the onlv
trimming.
Lanvins ribbon trimmed turban
made OF straw and heavy faille
bands was also popular. This ,aodel
was worn in navy, brown and in the
new copper red.
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29
A New Turba,1 and
Crinkled Braid

A NEW veil trimmed turban from
Lewis is developed In crinkled
cellophane braid, which looks inst
Ike jet bugles. All around the tur-
ban Is wired lace veil, which turns
back across tho trent and is held in
place BY two long jet pins.
Ths odd little Breton sailor was
very much worn in embroidered
cellophane and in cotton cloth, ap-
pliqued with highly colored kid fruit
designs, such as grapes and apples
almost in natural size. This mode,
!s from Eleane, Of the Rue de Ia
Paix. With it was carried a hand.
bag ornamented in the same curious
way.
Still another novelty in a Breton
sailor was Of dark blue straw
trimmed with big disk and diamond
shaped plaques cut from nother-of-
pearl and sewn fat on the rolling
brim. ThesS pearl pieces were
pierced with eyelets. through which
the stitches that held them were
plainly visible.
The early spring hats produced
by Paris milliners are obviously a
success on the Riviera. Cellophane
materials are rather heavy and hot
looking for summer. In one form or
another they resemble patent leather
and Jet bugles, both of which seem
cumbersome FOR summer wear. How
ever, the scarcity Of straw braids
will initiate against the use Of straw
hats, and il fabric or composition
is to be used, cellophane is the new
est as well as the most unusual idea
presented.
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

rms snart fcpeoaf seen at Nice
IS tn ssUo shades Of tar, one verv
coppery and tho other a fa,vn
tone. DnVstyn Is the material
and underneath the coat ,vas
soorn faevn duvefyn dress
New-York tribune., 1920-02-29

cred It's entire surface. The crown
was banded with white leather belt
decorated In bright red paillettes of
painted wood.
A very chic looking four-cornered
straw hat was made Of q fine straw
braid. The rolling brim was cut at
the four cc-aers, all edges being
bound with satin cire ribbon and
bordered with fine fringe Of os-
trich. The four corners were neat
" folded together to form the
square look. A small rosette Of dark
satin Giro trimmed the brim at the
right side.
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

outward decency should permit an
unwashed garbage pail in their
midst is a complete mystery. Why
they should leave furniture, bas-
kets, couch swings, books, anything,
out in the rain is unfathomable. 1t
is understandable that a landlord
may not arrange the furniture con-
veniently for another family, but
if heavy furniture is moved around
from floor to floor to suit the ten
ant, shouldn't it be moved back to it's
original position when the tenant
leaves? Why should the. attic, re-
served for the landlord, look as if
it had been stirred around with a
big stick, presumably because the
tenants children were allowed to
poke about up there?
The Astonished Chaywom a,
Summer cottagers are, Of course,
the least scrupulous of ~, mostly
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

because they are away on vacssiss
and determined to do just aS little
real work as they possibly can. Tls
furnishings Of most summer cot
tages for rent are accordingly
shoddy and ugly. But it is cusi-
Gus reflection on the practise G
tenants to find that the charwomaa
who does most Of the work ameae
the beach residents is openly ~
tonished that you purpose hiring
her for a final cleanup the day ~
go away.
"Nobody else does" she protes2
"The owners come down and eleep
after the summer people g.
Nevertheless, you engage hef
deeply convinced that you mus
'leave this place as you would lM
to find it." You return to yssr
own home, which you have rented
for the summer, and realize taG
what the charwoman says is tsvs
Nobody else does. But why not
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
Acy0ss the Court
4 Spring IduL IN Windozo Woshinq

window pane and sash thoroughly
with rough, dry clotll-it's funay
how many people fail to dust mn,
not stopping to realize that when ths5
put on the water they are uncen'
sciously making mud pie streaN e1
the window. Then you soak q snasl
cloth in ammonia and rapidly pass 2
over the entire pane. then fole'
at once with a clean dry cloth-aae
polish; it's really so easy and ,"
avoid all the Juggling around Of d'fN
water besides the wet cloths; ~
see, the ammonia evaporates alnee
Immediately and how the window
do shine. Pm sorry you can't =
them from therefor certainly =
proud of their appearance. :
"You are quite an inspiraessN
Pm sure, for I'm going to do mn.
at once; they surely need it WITH =
this rainy weather, but to-day y
fine day for just such a job"
after you get through II -
rub lemon on your hands you wes,
feel any i'll effects from the .
monia. Goodby!"
LEILA W. BREILlNO
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

apartment and retaining one room
in it. Even her presence did not de-
ter the tenant from pursuing the
even slovenliness of her ways. Nice
aluminium saucepans were allowed to
scorch and were never cleaned on
the bottom. Good china dishes were
used to put away food in the icebox.
Unwashed dinner dishes were left in
the kitchen over night, and before
long armies Of reaches, ants and
mice were in possession. He pans
were set on new oilcloth, hot dishes
on polished table tops and even on
the bureau. Almost anything was
used for an ash tray and irrevocably
stained. Ink was spattered on good
scarfs and carpets, medicine on
blankets. Matches were scratched
on white enameled woodwork. The
gas stove grew indescribably filthy
and the bathroom reeked.
Waste of the Preserves
What hurt the owner most was
the waste of her preserves. In a
burst of generosity she had invited
the tenant to make use of number
Of jars of different jams and fruits.
AS every one knows, homemade pre-
serves pean hard work, trouble and
expense. The tenant would dip into
one after another, use a little and
leave the rest to mole or ferment.
1t was an index of her attitude
toward the apartment - indeed,
toward life. She was the kind that
Clipped" into what she fancied and
then filtered to something else, leav-
ing waste and work in her wake,
The woman who had rented her
home had no redress other than oral
protest. The place was leased. AT
last, to save herself from witnessing
any further the wanton carelessness
toward her belongings, she took a
room elsewhere and remained in it
till she was privileged to come in and
clean up her flat again.
With the Landlord Absent
What goes on when the landlord
cannot possibly see is never, OF
course. revealed Why families of
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

and 1.5 inch in diameter; 26.5 feet
of cord and separable plug fur
ther extend the "reach" Of the ma
chine and four pieces of fiber tub
ing Of different lengths and shapes
provide convenient stiff handles
for operating the tools. Add to this
the fact that motor and bag "follow
on" travelling lightly on three large
rubber tired wheels swiveled to
move in any direction, and it is
seen that one has the convenience of
operating only light tool, instead
Of the whole machine, backward
and forward, and at the. same time
has an unrestricted field of action.
What High Grade Bearings Do
Other special features are the i'm
provement Of the bearings by sub
stituting self-aligning S. X. F. ball
bearings for the solid bronze type
formerly used, which reduces fric-
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
: (Tested and Endorsed in the Tribune Institute

ton and decreases heating of the
motor on long continued use. The
data obtained in the Institute on
this point were very satisfactory,
confirming this theory, since the rise
in temperature, with the nozzle rest
ing on a heavy carpet, the motor on
115 volt go cycle), after an hours
continuous operation was only forty
degrees, ten degrees below the limit
set by the American Institute of
Electrical Engineers.
The use of high grade bearings
also reduces the trouble of motor
fabrication, an important point in
household operation, ten drops of
motor oil, in two places, once in
three months being the only re-
quirement.
The one-third horsepower Bisscll
motor need not confne its services to
the cleaning. 1t may be used also to
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

the brightener, using a stiff brush,
and polished for about ten minutes.
Then add two thin coats of the wax.
Away With Soap, Water and Oil
Soap and water should never be
put on floors which you wish to keep
in good condition. The water will
in a short time destroy the life and
luster of a shellacked, vanished or
waxed surface, and it Will also
raise" the grain Of the wood.
The careless and eXtravagant use
of oil is even more injurious. The
oil darkens the wood and collects
dust and dirt and eventually ruins
the luster. A liquid cleaner which
contains no oil is to be preferred.
1t should be something which not
only cleans, but polishes, brightens
and protects the floor.
Worn Spots
If there are worn spots which ap-
pear in the floor where it has the
hardest usage these places should
be watched and little wax applied
frequently. The new wax does not
show and yet protects the floor. Do
not try to cover these spots with
varnish or shellac, as they will show
up and look patchy and unattractive.
Going over the floor with dry
cloth or the felt covered tool of the
vacuum cleaner once or twice a
week will keep a properly prepared
floor clean, and waxing twice a
month in addition will give the last
word in perfectly kept floor.
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
Spring Treatments for Hardwood Floors

floors, consider it privilege. First.
the floor should be scraped and sand
papered perfectly smooth and clean.
Then apply a "wood filler"--a paste
is preferable to a liquid. After the
filler has been smoothed off and al
lowed to dry for about twenty-four
hours, apply a thin coat of wax.
This is applied in the following man.
ner: Place a goodly quantity be-
tween two or more thicknesses of
cheesecloth, forming a sort of bag.
Then allow the wax to work through
the meshes of the cloth as it is
passed over the floor, thus insuring
thin, even coat. Allow this to dry
about ten minutes. Rub to a polish
with a clean soft cloth or with
brick with cloth wrapped around
1T. Polish first across the grain of
the wood, then with it. If a brush
is used piece of carpet placed un-
der it will give the finishing gloss.
In an hour or two second coat
should be applied in a similar man.
ner.
Be sure to get a wax that brings
out the natural beauty of the grain
of the wood without changing the
color Of the floor. If the wood is
light, however. and you prefer it
darker shade, stain the floor to the
desired shade after the filler is ap-
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

SsX17 ELL, hope you don't call
w that window clean," called
Mrs. Third Floor Back to Mrs.
Second Floor Front-they were very
good friends
"Why, doesn't it look it?" asked
the other, surprised.
"Oh, l can't tell from here, as the
light isn't right-but since I never
saw any one clean a window in such
a short time before I just Won
dered," explained Mrs. Third Floor.
"You simply have to hurry by my
method-in fact, / can clean all
seven of my windows in twenty min
utes,' returned the other as she put
the cork carefully back in her bottle.
"What's iE the ?"-from
across the court.
"You sound like a revenue agent
and if you were one I'd let you smell
it-but it's the whole secret of the
rapid window cleaning process-sim-
ply ammonia. First you dust the
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
The Bag and the Blower

The bag (the emptying Of which
is the one unpleasant moment !,
the operation of a vacuum clean.rl
is especially cleanly. 1t i. 13 bv q
inches and is held upright on {,
steel rod above the motor. The \,
is double, snap fastening denim
bag being inside of the close, final,
woven material used for the ont.
side. 1t is easily attached and IA.
tached by sliding twist and loek.
ing thumb screw, and the whole ~
opens by sliding off metal CLAIM
which works easily.
In short, the machine is ORA Al
first quality materials and Of ~
cial power, the hose having q carr.
ing capacity of so per cent gfeatsr
than the usual size. 1t may b a.
tached to the suction or blower ia
of the fan, so that a strong blower
is also provided.
Practical Cleaning Tests
In the practical tests made vith
the four-inch nozzle, lint was piclea
up in two strokes that still n.
manned after thirty strokes wher
the nine-inch nozzle was employed
This, of course, is the severest teat
for suction machine.
In its own special field, removing
flour from the carpet, tablespoon.
full was completely removed in eigAt
strokes, whereas the nearest %.
proach to this was eighteen st,ekes
with an efficient machine Of til
usual household type. This gives 1
practical measure of the increased
suction and greater air displaee,
ment afforded by this heavier, mon
expensive and especially construeted
machine.
About one and .one-half az much
power is required for this larger
air delivery, giving a cost of opera
tion that averages 2.55 cents On
hour, at a ten-cent rate, or l.n
cents at a seven-cent rate for eise.
tricity For less frequent extensive
cleaning in large establishment
this cost is reasonable in relation Ia
speed and thoroughness of work.
The Bissell Electric Sussisa
Cleaner.
Made by the Bisseil Motor Cen.
pany, Toledo, Ohio.
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
By AGNES ATHOL

~ ETWEEN the unsettled busi-
n ness conditions and the ap-
palling scarcity of places to
live, a surprising number of fam
lilies just now are living in rented
furnished quarters. We hear
great deal about profteering land
lords and rental prices that would
buy the furniture outright within a
short period. 1t makes one gasp to
know that families of moderate
means are actually paying $3.50 a
month rent for quite ordinary four
room apartments-not in one city,
but in many. Possibly these rents,
double and treble the prices a few
years back, make the tenants feel
that they are justified in treating
the quarters they occupy just as they
please. There is something, how
ever, to be said on the other side.
The Golden Rule is not entirely
out of date. Of course, if the tenant
ID so easygoing or so unnatural as
to be utterly Indifferent to all ma
terial possessions it becomes mean
lngless to expect him--or her-to
do as you would be done by The
simple housekeeper, nevertheless,
who undertakes without experience
to rent her home furnished is about
as amazed when it is returned to her
as she was the first time she read
the sign in the department store
iavatory: "Pleasc leave this place
~ you would like to find it,"
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18
Old Floors Made New

If you have old floors and want to
refnish them, the treatment given
depends on their condition. If they
are vanished. or shellacked and in
only fair condition, first clean with
what is known as a "brightener."
Then apply a thin coat of wax and
rub to polish with a soft clean cloth.
Allow to remain an hour or so and
apply second coat. The former
surface will be protected from
scratching and the improved appear
ance will delight you.
If the same kind of floor is in
extremely bad condition remove
the old finish with a varnish re-
mover. Take out all stains with a
stain remover and fill all cracks with
special substance furnished for
this purpose. Don't use putty. Then
apply wax and finish in the same
manner as before.
If your floors are oiled they
should be scraped down as far as
the oil has penetrated, then finished
the same as new floor.
If waxed floors need care they
should be cleaned thoroughly with
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

obstinately clinging dirt, such as lint,
or for upholstery. This was used in
the Institute on long curtains and
cretonne screens that were very dull
with downtown dirt" and they were
made to "shine like new" in about
two or three minutes to a window.
They demonstrated the effect of tax
ing off more than surface dirt.
The photograph also shows the un-
usual bottle~shaped rubber imple-
mcnt that is used for small, deep
spaces, as in tufted furniture or
carved wood, inside of pianos, etc.
The implement for hardwood floors
is especially good, having felt base
(protected around the edges) eleven
by three inches wide on a nine-inch
nozzle.
The other attachment shown is a
bristle brush nine inches long and
three inches wide. Two rows of
bristles, three-quarters of an inch
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

VT YOU have no vacuum cleaner in
your home for the spring clean
ing campaign, the Tribune Institute
would be glad to give you prices,
dealers and the especial peculiari-
ties of any Of the fifteen cleaners
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

Bee, Bissell, Frantz-Premier, Hot
point, Hoover Special Suction
Sweeper, Imperial, Liberty Model
c, Royal Model G, Sloane Suction
Sweeper, Thor No. -, Torrington,
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

that we have tested and endorsed.
Telephone us, Beekman 5000, for in
formation concerning any of the fol-
lowing models:
America, Apex Suction Cleaner,
New-York tribune., 1920-04-18

siously cheap she--it is mostly she
-forgets that, after all, she has
,nly rented the use of these articles,
whether inexpensive or valuable,