Amarillo daily news. [volume] (Amarillo, Tex.) 19??-current, 1920-05-09
Special 10 The Nrvs
WASHINGTON

spseial 10 The Ntvs
WASHINGTON. NAV >-Si',s or
the foot v. tus' Co., -
~, .lEa,r W
: wi
..4klnu transforms
l.. .....aiiir a.los !rto an epic 81 Amcri'
can ingenuity and skin. according -
William Joseph Showaltcr who writes
90 the National Geographic Soci,iy ~
follows:
There are four general types 81 fuoH
wear. according o. the manner ~ which
the soles are attached 90 the upp'fs
The LEADING type Is the welt u has
a small strip ~ leather scwci fast.
first 10 thu upper. and then o. The sole.
81 that upper and sulc are not Joined
directly Welt solcs are used mainly
in highcrgrade mems and boys shoes
and IN womcn's walking Shoes
Tn. Mckay sewei shoe Il the second
type. i, u the yqle j. scw.d directly
80 IN. upper The cheaper grades 81
stiff soled s,Rcd shoes are made bN
this method
The turned shoe l. the third type In
Il the sole il Joined io the upper with
the whole shoe inside out, then turr.
ed. women's pllahlc-soied shoes are
made In this fashion.
The nailed pegg,d. or screwed on
sale represents the fourth type AM
go-s with cheaper grades 81 shoes
A. uppers leather comes into the fac
torylt has the irregular outlines % a
hide OF skin. as intended as the cuas'
81 Mine and by hand could De- meas
urcd only hy a master q trigunomoiry
through a long proves q calculations
hut "A machine has BEEN invented that
acn eaulcuaie more areas In hall d
minute than a mathematician could
IN half a day.
Fifty machines. a hundred people
ana two hundred processcs are cm
ployed in the making % a pai- of Shoes
In the Innings department are bis
machines that cuts uppers cloth. TWEEN
q To forty thickness-s NJ clip. a.
easliy IA a cakecuiier cuts dough.
Beyond Is the uppers leariher depart
ment. Here a trained man. with stub
by-bladed. razor-cdgv knife takes IN
skin. LAYS Il on his cutting b,ard. and
running his knife around his sewers
snd quarter and toe pieces with accom-
pllshed ar; IN getting the maximum q
pieces out 81 the minimum % skins
When he has finished with a skin
looks like shapeiess strings borderin
a series of irregular holes.
In cheaper grades of shoes the lcata
Or also l. cut by dinking' machines
mechanical cake-cutters applied {
shoemaking only one ply h. cut a
the different parts.
After the quarters. vamps, toe. cap
etc, have been cut the leather mus
be 'skived ~ as 10 prevent any IA
edges showing In the finished shc
The edges arr fed through machif
that shaves the unfinished side down
a bevel. This II then covered with G.
snent and the thin edges folded oyc
much as a seams,ress lays a hem.
The Innings go from the assembl
room 90 BE- transferred from indiyidu.
pieces into the canvas counterpart ,
the Hatcher upper The quarters az
Joined at the back and stayed with
reinforcement; The vamps are 6
mented into shape ready for inclusio
IN the finished upper.
The tips e. 90 the toe-cap roor
where they are perforated az the odl
10 give the ma pleasing appearance q
the foot Of the weaFer Fourteen d
fereni processes are required % tran
form a piece of tip leather into ~
ished cap. with its box 20 hold a
shape q the shoe and canvas lining
protect the hose of the wearer.
The joining 81 the quarters ar
vamp must be done with great acr
10 that there Is neither uncvennc
nor Toughnesa. Is the most ditficu
task In the making q the upper ~
shoe. Judgment and care are requir'
and much strength q hand. other n
nor processes follow. and presently q
finish upper fares forth TO meet
role-maie In the making departmer
Before Il goes. u IL be a Iced upper.
giri puts u through a machine IN
laccs It Up and ties IL In the twinklii
81 an eye--a machine that would be
glorious aid 10 a fat man.
Preparatory o. It's alliance with q
sole. the upper IL lasted. The inso
has been tackled on the last. and q
upper IL now pulled tightly over q
last ~ith a machine that has plnce
which act like human fingers. TIT
draw the whole upper IN tightly on
the last. ~ that there u not a wink
l-ft. and tack u down On the botioi
The to- and heel requires little *
attention and are held down by
piece of fine wire
The lasted shoe next goes through
trimming machine that removes
surplus leather. while a mechanic
hammer pounds the leather smoo'
Then Il gUes o. another machir
where the toes and heels are beat
smooth. making the shoe ready Z
welting
The welt u 40 prepared that ID q
D. sewed 10 thu inroie and the upr
IN one sewing and later hay. the 81