The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-10

to spend so much time upon the toilet.
They disavow any inclination toward
dlsorderly appearance. They have
no time or patience with those who
struggle through life. But their creed
and II Is a worthy creed-is that q
good and interesting toilet may be made
In a minimum of time If one only learns
the expediency OF efficiency. To dawdle
over dressing is a disgrace, say these
women; life presses too fast on the heels
and the call Is ever onward.
To suit the new type of woman. she
who must vote. run house. watch her
children, do much of her own shopping
for the essentials in order to keep down
the cost of living, this new monasdc
robe, thrown into the arena OF fashion
by a religious pilgrimage to a Holy
city comes as an answer to an appeal
for help.
Nothing could be more directly de-
signed for the woman who takes her
part in life this year. 1t Is of dull
brown or blue. even black. and its rough
noollen surface or soft silk duvetyn
threads give a promise of admiral BILE
service. The robe is simply cut IL sug-
cests the outlines of the figure more than
* reveals them 1t is short and is fas-
tened down the front. II puts itself in
the hands of the embroiderer to get
brilliancy.
There are no odds and ends that de-
u1and connection with It. The string
girdle is attached at the hips. the bell
shaped sleeves have no tight cuff. :he
neck is finished with its own applied col
lar The lining hangs loosely from the
shoulders. II demands few pieces OF
underclothing.
Each woman wants to vary IL accord
ing to her type and coloring This is a
simple matter. Whatever color one de-
sircs In cloth is TO be bought II one has
money. The designs for the embroidery
are easily found. The colors must not
be garish. The embroidery must not
leave tho edges 1t is not spread about
over the cloth in patches. 1t is purely
a decorative border.
The cut Of the robe must be mannisn.
rot feminine. II Is not permitted to
curve IL in at the waist or below the
spine II is not permitted to sag over
tho girdle, as many OF it's rivals do.
Long WaistIihe Is Accepted.
Whatever the inspiration, II IL an ac-
cepted and established fact that the
waistline Is at the hiplne. This fashion
II divided into two parts. Ono part
shows the monastic cirdle drawn about
the hips without pulling In the cloth;
the other part shows an ornamental
grdlo tightening the hips and holding the
cloth in fun folds above IT, Both fash
Ions are In full swing.
The froci that was exploited last
spring and which consists Of two ma
teriais and two colors Joined at the hip
line In the fashion OF tho hour which
rivals tho Pilgrims robe. Speaking
broadly. one might classify all the new
fashions for the street into these two
designs.
The drcssmakers are not especially
pleased with this development They
have paid staggering prices for the
French models and they do not wish TO
be held UP In an argument as TO why
80 much n asked for frock that can
be made az homo by competent scam
etrcss.
IL is not as easy az every amateur
thinks 90 build one OF these simple
frocks IN tho sewing room. yet tho mind
that In struggling with high prices goes
out instinctivcly toward the thing that
presents a way out OF the problem.
Women would prefer having the one
piece frock with imperfections In It's
cutting and making than 70 pay the
price that might rob their nights OF
sleep.
Whoever wins out In the struggle, the
or the amateur. the long