The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1920-12-17
longer Coats
for Tailleurs

Longer coats and longer skirts is the
cry Of the moment in Paris, and to
some extent reclamation finds echo
Ihere in America Ahem! So say we
all. Enough Of evening gowns and
street costumes the length of bathing
apparel.
For some time past Paris has en-
,hatically placed ban on the excess
bively short knee-length skirt. Gradu-
billy inches and half inches have been
added until some of the afternoon
Gowns and three-piece costumes re-
qently turned out have approached
the familiar ankle length, though there
|are still several inches to go before the
hem rests serenely ON this part OF
ANATOMY.
! Tailleurs, which have never been
more extensively featured, both in
BUTTS and dresses for women OF all
ages, are still exploiting short skirt
engths. But the newer editions with
le stamp of the best designers ip
Paris and America. show decided
tendency to heightened skirts and
coats.
Perhaps the assured tumble in
prices has something to do with the
case when yardage will not be such
q serious problem, but most likely it is
reassertion Of decency and native re-
finement that is responsible.
It is excessively bad form for the
hose to appear above tall walking or
dress shoe or spat, hence the skirt
may necessarily meet either the shoe
top or high-curved edge of the spat
The observance of this little detail
marks the well-dressed woman of re-
finement and culture.
These dapper accessories that add
such smart detail to the street Co.'S
tune are chosen in a lighter tone OF
color than the cloth, or when the purse
permits are sometimes self-matching
The ripple or circular skirt which is
appearing in some of the newest tail
leurs, besides one-piece gowns, require
q very trim footline.
This model skirt is the forerunner
or the still fuller skirt that is predicted
for spring. and, indeed. several de-
signers in Paris featured surprisingly
full skirts for their winter exhibitions.
In the strictly tailored suits the
skirts are plain with self-matchin belts.
Center ceams and. panel effects are
sometimes added to break the straight.
nat erect. Panels have rounded edges
that lap across the front seams of the
skirt I.
Others have shaped, frequently
stitched bands Of self-matching mater
ial that extends part way around the
skirt. usually appearing at the sides.
The tapering effect for the skirt
maintains where the straight-line pre-
walls for the coat. However. where the
coat has a tendency to flare. as the
redingote or riding coat, the skirt usu-
ally accommodates the new line and
increases in width accordingly.
While there are numerous accepted
lines in tailleur coats certain models
thke precedence over others.
The semi-htting straight-line coat is
the one that maintains everywhere, no
matter the length. There is such sim
plicity and youth conjured here, that
women Of all ages manage to include
1t least one such model in their ward
robe. Those models are both belted
and unbelted, and as rule have long,
close-fitting sleeves.
Some suits, especial the home-spun
or loosely woven novelty, having hair
line stripes, are devoid Of trimming.
Again, for velour and duvetyn tailors
marks are employed. Many handsome
models Of this type have self-toned en-
broidery. and when the price goes
soaring fur is added for the collar,
Guns. and perhaps band on the edge
/ the coat or the sides Of the skirt.
Reminiscent of other days is the
mi-fitting tailored model cut in long
Ies or in gored sections. having de-
ed flare from the hipline. The
ewes are invariably long and closely
ed. The collars are shawl shape,
ling away to the waist or wide re-
that softly ripple are featured.
be high choker collar that is stead
pushing its way to the foreground.