New-York tribune., 1920-08-22
The High Collar


clothes that we buy for
~ autumn. There are several
reasons for getting these
carly in the season. We can wear
them over our summer dresses and
start the season with cloth frocks
left over from spring if we have a
qood-looking coat Then, too, the
fashions in coats are settled earlier
than they are in dresses. There is
not the constant changing that there
is in frocks. I do not mean that
there are not great changes in coats
from one season to another, but that
the STYLES in coats brought out early
in the autumn carry through the en-
tire winter.
This falls topcoats are in line
with the advanced style features seen
in other articles of wearing apparel.
Along with the Oriental and Egyp-
tian notes, which are being strongly
featured in both current and advance
fashion models, there is appearing
another note fostered by several i'm
portant houses. This is the Direc-
toire.
Regarding the styles Of this period
there might be something in COM
mon between the psychology of 1920
in France and that of the closing
wears of the eighteenth century.
The style of the Directoire period
was patterned upon exaggerated
classical outline and appealed to that
new class of citizens recently come
into power and wealth through
Frances changing political condi-
tions. The Paris dressmaker to-day
is catering to a similar class, those
who have gained wealth and af-
fluence through the recent war.
Orient and Occident
Mingle in New Models
SOCIETY is not yet organized as it
was before the war. Everything
goes, as it were, in a hit or miss
style. The Paris dressmaker, being
forced to study the state of a new
class of customers, vaguely reaches
out for ideas around which to build
models that will conform to this new
standard of taste in dress. Just as
the Directoire was melange of
classic and modern ideas, so to-day
are fashions eliminating in mix
ture of Orient and Occident.
One Of the most pronounced and
striking features, which has already
registered success in Paris, is the
high Directoire collar of organdie
or crepe Georgette, and even of
pleated cloth. This historic form
of neck dressing has been eagerly
taken up by few very smart wom-
en- and its success seems to be as
sured. These Directoire collars are
seen quite as frequently on coats as
they are on dresses. In fact, the
Directoire is strongly emphasized in
winter wraps.
Very smart in its aspect is the
tailored coat developed in beautiful
beaver shades of cloth that strongly
emphasizes the slim line Of the
Directoire. Such coats also have the
high mounting collar of that period.
Directoire coats were brought out
IN the midsummer developed in
bright yellow linens, to wear over
dresses Of pleated white organdie
made in semi-chemise form without
vestige of trimming. Only mar
row belt of organdie tied about the
waist broke the straightness of their
lines. These dresses were semi
-decollete and had sleeves so short
that they might almost have been
sad to be sleeveless. This type Of
costume took so we'll that it has been
copied in heavier materials for
autumn. The coats may be of cloth,
hned with heavy silk crepe, and the
dresses of the same material as the
coat lining. 1t is a perfect costume
Tor afternoon wear.
Deep Color Tones
In Directoire Style
VERY charming dresses in deep
color tones are being made up
In Directoire style. Among the new
models shown by one French house
are dark brown and rose colored