Evening star., 1920-02-22
These May Take the Place Of the OnePece Fro-Bloses No
Matter What Their Style. Go Over the Skirt - Chiffon,
Iule and Metallic Laces Heavily Embroidered

'Iooheu ana inc HOOKS anu eyes Idi OIL
at a touch. The Paris dressmaker does
not make such clothes for the French
woman. She realizes that these models
sold to the American buyers are merely
for the purpose of copying and that they
are not taken seriously by the average
American woman al gowns 10 be bought
and worn by them.
For the other set Of women, the set
that makes up the great majority when
buys ready-to-wear garments, and also
makes them at home, 1t is exceedingly
gratifying to find fashion that Is not
SO exclusive as to bar them from in
dulging in it. II they can buy a sepa-
rate skirt we'll built and well hung.
then choose blouses for it or build them
at home, there Is SO much gained.
Not great deal Of money is saved.
for the shops which deal in ready-to-
wear clothes make no pretense Of SELL
ing ,o3hgs at small prices this season.
There is not striking difference be-
tween what is sold at high class shop
and what Is made at a good dressmak-
ing house. The woman who sews at
home and can do much of the work
herself is by far the winner in the
race to save money. She does not
save time and vitality, and II she reck-
Ons these as valuable assets she is the
loser, but the average woman does
not keep her accounts in this precise
and businesslike manner.
There is no doubt that the incoming
OF a fashion that permits Of variety. one
that does not insist upon single color
scheme, one fabric and one design from
head to foot. must prove economical in
its wide adaptation. 1t will stimulate
those who 60 to work in their sewing
rooms as soon as the sun grows warmer.
They are the ones who indulge in altera-
tion each time the season changes and
thereby equip themselves with more
clothes than the woman who must de-
pend upon an outright purchase for
whatever she possesses.
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skirt one desires for these tunics. II
may be fanciful and keep within the
best law of fashion; it may be severe
and continue In god taste. AS more
attention is paid to the skirt than to
any other part Of the costume this sea
son, which results in tangle of de-
signs and styles that bewilders the
woman used to the straight and narrow
path, she will not find tho average skirt
exactly what she desires.
Skirts are TERED, they are founced,
they are trimmed at the sides II not at
front and back; they are braided, they
are made in two sections Of different
materials. and all these styles are con-
sidered available for the street.
Dancers continue to wear hoopskirts.
but no older woman attempts them. The
punching up Of material over the hips
continues to be considered sufficiently
fashionable by young people to get 1t
accepted in tulle. silk net and thin satin
and lace, especially when garlands OF
flowers, Roman wreaths of leaves or
Bacchanalian clusters Of grapes are
placed to hold up the hip fullness. But
all such friyolity is for those who dance.
1t is rarely INDUCED in by those who
content themselves with the restricted
gayety of dinners and the theater.
As direct contrast to this eighteenth
century style for the evening the street
Sklft Is HAT OH inc Hips. AuclC bcChS
little disposition to argue that fact.
Even in Paris, where wide hip dimen-
sions had their source, the women wear
skirts which cling to the hips, disre-
gard waist line and often maintain
straight line from shoulder to hem, as
though the ancient fashion We're the
best, after all.
1t is in accordance with this belief
that the chemise frock has not been
abandoned in Paris nor the Riviera.
where the smartest fashions in Europe
are seen this month. We in America
also like the straight line, and we seem
determined to stick to 1t, but We are
willing to use it with many modifica-
tions, with graceful pleatings. cuttings
and insertions that do not definitely de-
stroy the line, but give 1t less severity.
less of the commonplace.
Whatever one wants In fanciful
skirt. that one may have today. 1t is
this fact that makes the separate skirt a
garment Of distinction and desirability
and which suggests its combination with
a variety Of overblouses as substitute
costume for the one-piece gown. which
need not complain Of indifferent treat
ment during the last five years.
y *~*