The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-12-05

cious than ~. bodices They are far
more important than the skirts. They
are difficult to cut and to fit, so that the
dressmalxing houses will not find 1t easy
to put competent hands on the work, for
the art Of placing and orriamenting q
fantastic sleeve has become deadened
by the constant use Of tie short cap,
the square elbow shape and the bell
shaped Spanish sleeve.
High artistry viii be required in the
new work. Those who are really de-
signers will find a way to differ one
gown FROM another to twist and turn,
to find way out OF tine monotonous
rut into which all frocks, American and
French, seem to have fallen. Something
Is needed TO restore them to versatility.
A million sleeves have been exactly
alike for a year. Tomorrow this will
not be the rule. Variety will be sought.
Down to details. Youth may con-
tinue to wear the negligible sleeve In
the evening. For the small white rounded
arm the shoulder drapery of tulle will
serve. For those who trail youth as
sharp shadow behind them the long
sleeve Of metallic net of tinted chiffon
studded with colored crystals. caught at
the wrist with significant bracelet, will
be thing.
The older woman will have offered
her the sleeve that is draped from the
back or one that is Chinese in its an
tiquity and fulness. This will be trans
parent, bordered with light colored fur.
If she prefers the cap sleeve that dis
guises the flesh or muscular develop
n1ent where the arm joins the body
one of the ugliest defects of the figure
it will be opened down the back and
the edges sewn with crystals or en-
broidered with rhinestones.
Afternoon frocks of the hour show
sleeves that are three times the size
OF those we have worn. They are gath
cred 70 the armhole or TO n lowered
shoulder; from there they drop to the
wrist and are gathered into a cuff of
embroidery, OF fur. OF colored glass
tubes.
The world is full Of vast variety Of
glistening, glinting things that will be
used to make this type Of arm covering
attract attention. Steel bugles have
been invented just in the nick of time
Ihey VIII run up and down a velvet or
chrfon sleeve in a manner that will sug
gest the Elizabethan era.
The Franz Halls sleeve Is to be par
tally reinstated. It is az full az a
woman's skirt of to-day. II is slashed
gayly to show a brilliant lining. and
clashing and brilliant colors are PIT to-
gethcp.
The separate sleeve is here. II ia no
longer q novelty. 1t is put in the lining
and follows the way of sleeves I'm the
early centuries when William was Con-
queror OF England by bursting through
slit In the tunlc. Heretofore this
sleeve. as worn by moderns, has carried
out the color Of the tunic even though
IL has not been true TO the fabric. Now
II will disregard the frock and appear
as q separate entity. something like a
girdle or hat. detached yet harnoni-
Gus. What chance for the woman who
yearns TO use the contents OF the scrap
bagl
The arm coverings for street gowns
Will not be as ornate naturally as those
for formal functions. But they will not
be a mere cap as they have been. II
they are bell shaped there will be en- in
serted sleeve from elbow 10 wrist. In
midwinter this win be OF fur in any
color or kind. brown preferred. II there
is any satin on the frock this long mo-
di@val cuff can be of that fabric. IL is
run with circular hoops OF braid. of em-
broidery, OF Jet or steel to initiate the
bracelets that extend from wrist 10 ell
bow on the bare arm OF the woman OF
the hour who likes to be IN the limelight.
Such cuffs do not end at the wrist.
An excellent rule TO remember when
choosing among these new sleeves is
that the fairly tight shape from elbow to
wrist flares over the hand; the full
shape from armhole 10 wrist Is caught
! by tight cuff OF giittering ornaments.
Fur can edge this kind OF cuff, top and
bottom. but Il is not used lavishly. as Il
Is on the edge OF Chinese. Oriental or
bell shaped sleeve.
Gray wool fringe trims some OF the
smart navy blue frocks of tricotine or
duvetyn. For you must know that.
though brown is the best color for winter
! wear 30 far as smartness goes nave
blue may still be found In some of the
smartest frocks.