The Connecticut labor press. (New Haven, Conn.) 191?-1921, 1920-10-23
The new FR0CkS
FOR FALL WEAR
Dresses of Serge and Duvetyn
Are Good for the First of
the CooIish Days.
SKIRTS ARE GROWING LONGER
Careful Dressers, Writer Predicts,
Not Likely to Favor Garments
Shorter Than Twelve Inches
Above Floor.

SnofrSr nan Twelve Inches
Above Floor.
What will be the new lines of dress
es during the approaching months?
A change already is apparent, OBJ
serves New York fashion CORE
spOndent, though in some instances
it may be only subtly suggested.
Women the country over are buy
ing much more conservatively than
in the first flush Of rising costs. Now
Is the time for the American woman
to take further stand and to demand
real beauty, refuse anything that is
just good enough" in looks or in ma
terial, and to assert her right to
wear the most attractive dresses, since
she is paying the highest prices. Ev-
cry day more and more beautiful
gowns are being designed. Women
can have them il they demand them.
n, when you are buying frock, you
demand four things-beauty, style,
quality and suitability-and refuse
any concession, then your wardrobe
will endure as did our grandmothers'
in the days after the Civil war. Be-
cause of inferior products continually
being forced upon the market, it is
possible to attain this result through
perseverance only, but the game is
worth the candle.
Dresses Of serge and duvetyn are
good for winter days and for the first
coolish days when one longs for a
sufficient covering and a relief from
the thin, mussed things of summer.
Duvetyn is perhaps the smarter, but
the material is not the best wearing
in the world. There is something
about its depth of color that makes
1t the most sumptuous of all fabrics,
and it takes on the lines Of the figure
to perfection. Many really lovely de-
signs have been turned out in wool
material constitutes a good back
ground for heavy wooden embroidery.
Serge ls Paris Favorite.
Serge, they say in Paris. is TO be as
smart as duvetyn, and, because OF its
wearing qualities. it must always be
the favorite for everyday use. Moth
ing is lacking in the designs that have
been created in serge. They have
scope and variety. Blue serge is be-
coming to lot Of women, though
many wear it when 1t is not becoming.
Silks and satin come into play for
afternoon and evening dresses. and
here, as always, one finds an even
measure of the different materials
used. Especially in these dress-up
fashions the decision becomes mat
ter of taste and personal preference.
There are models in all of them.
The waists on most of the dresses
are long. When they are of one piece
this is the case. and when they are
made of two materials the joining in
variably is at a lowered waistline.
One of the new duvetyn dresses is in
the darkest of dark blues, very rich
and deep in tone. This is made up
with a long waist of white satin and
the trimming consists of narrow bands
of the duvetyn loosely held over the
bodice The strips reach from the
waistline, and joining to the neckline
are fastened at both Of these places
and flop loosely between. This is an
effective frock.
Another duvetyn frock was made
with the fashionable apron front.
This is piece that in this case was
cut circular and, being fastened at the
high waistline On either hip. fell
gracefully over the entire front of the
frock. Then there was an underskirt.
straight and short and fairly tight.
This was embroidered in lines of sill
yer thread, and the decoration showed
at the back and in tiny spaces at the
foot of the apron in front The bodice
was cut kimono fashion with three
quarter sleeves and was embroidered
to harmonic with the underskirt.
Embroidery and Short Sleeves.
A serge dress imported from Paris
was embroidered in copper threads
about pointed neck, with very short
sleeves. The design of the embroid-
cry was rather open, made up of tri-
angles with irregular sides. There
was an overskirt, accordion pleated,
while the short, tight underskirt was
made Of the serge, showing line Of
the copper embroidery. This was a
new combination of colors and design.
Another nice thing about this costume
was that it was accompanied by a
serge cape to match. It was simply
cut and the embroidery running all
around the ample outlines of the wrap
matched exactly the embroidery on
the gown. There was soft copper
colored faille lining.
Embroidery on serge is most effec-
tive when 1t is done in the lighter
shades and tones. Serge takes wool
and silk and metal embroidery equal
Iy well, and it holds the stitches in
place. One serge dress made with
high waist in front and back extend
ing from shoulders to hem simply
belted at the waistline has trimming
of silk dots in bright colors scattered
about the space over the hips. This
trimming is repeated around the
rounded neck line and again in SIM
pie little designs at the edges Of the
elbow sleeves.
Another serge dress in one-piece
style is embroidered in white. Its
straight skirt is relieved by plated
panels inserted at either side, and
these sections are held in at the hem
by little white embroidered bands.
This gives the skirt the pinched-at-