El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1920-11-02
IRELAND
And The Irish
LEAVES FROM AN
OVERSEAS NOTEBOOK


] variety Of material gathered by the editor
I ot 4ae Herald during year and seven
{ months IN Europe during and after The
{ var Excerpts VIII be published On this
I column daily during the next several
I months Publication Of the Notes. no.
I gan october l5- Today's instalmcnt con
tinues the Irish notes.
4 7 EAVING Chester, England. for Ire
Z land az Dec, 1870, I could not
] free my mind Of the sensation Of
I setting out on an adventure There
! had been a good deal Of disturbance
I in the island. and I was a little sur
I prised not to be subjected to rigid
military and police inquiry and sur
I veillance; IL was hard for me to com
prehend that I was merely going from
l one part OF the kingdom to another.
The long ride along the coast Of
. Wales TO HOlyhsad gave me my. only
glimpses Of Wales Wales is gener-
I ally colOred on the maps a dull
Ipurplish gray. and Wales is that color
I what saw OF it. Barren hills, little
{ life, scant vegetation, bleak head
lands and cruel sea. along this coast.
I read that Wales has much OF signal
beauty OF scenery and comfortable
villages, and / believe It unseen.
We had an unusually smooth pas
sage across the Irish sea, between
-FOUR and live hours "a few days after
this the ships fought u or IA hours
to get over. The Irish sea Is said to
be generally very rough and stormy,
asld I was lucky. Fine large ship and
every comfort Arrived at Kings
town long after dark in fog and
drizzly rain Picturesque as the light
houses began to appear. and the shore
lights where the towns lay.
Arrived Dublin in the rain, and
walked 20 excellent hotel. entirely
modern and comfortable. Good din
ner. and smoke, reading, and CONVEX
sation after.
Is Dec, 1871 walked many miles
around Dublin through the back
streets and factory and tenement dis
tricts as wei as the business dis
tricts- The general impression is that
Of town occupied by the enemy.
There IS prevailing air Of sup
preston. suspicion. hate. and intrigue.
There is no sign Of happiness or con-
tentment- Business seems dull The
people have a harassed. distracted
look, hurrying and seeming almost to
dodge along. Yet there are almost I
no soldiers in evidence and very few Z
police or constahles. The streets are I
fairly wen used by people shopping I
and by vehicles, but for a city OF 300,- /
600 &c seems very dull and spiritless- z
Dublin looks as If it had been un- I
der siege; the amount Of destruction /.
the fire and bombs Of troops and 4
rebels in the Easter uprising OF 1915 I
exceeds that In many cities Of France I
and Belgium that have been widely L
advertised as devastated" Little or 4
none Of the damage done that terrible /
week has been repaired.
The postofnce building. once
stately structure, where the rebels I
had thelr headquarters, IS a black
ened and crumbhng ruin A large I
hotel, several small hotels. many big /
business blocks. are in ruins, caused ]
by artillery and fire. The destruc- /
ton is not limited to any one section /
7 saw many factories and workmen's I
houses in ruins, far from the business I
center where the heaviest fighting 4
took place I felt that I was in a
city held by a grim and merciless /
enemy.
in the back streets there was
squalor and dirt and every evidence /
Of carelessness, public and private I
EveryE here there was great raft Of 4
children playing In the streets, and i
these shouted and even laughed; their 4
laughter was good to hear, and yet
it was almost like a picnic party in /
a graveyard homogeneous and a bit I
Satire.
Dublin has some good modern re-
tail shops They seemed 10 be well /
well lighted and the business districts ]
are fairly well kept. The factory dis
tricts and back areas looked like a /
decadent city.
Dublin has majestic public build
inEs and several fine parks. wei kept.
Trinity college is a busy place The /
city merely awaits release from the /
conditions now prevail 4
ing, to become place Of charm and I
no little beauty.
All street name signs in Dublin are
in two languages, Gaelic or Erse. the .
classic Irish tongue and English. I I
was strongly reminded Of the similar
condition in Barcelona and other
Spanish cities in the province Of Cata- "
lunya, where the cult OF separate nat
iouality in all its phases is being fOs-
tered just as It is in Ireland
In a walk Of several miles around /
Dublin i did not see a single shoe
repair shop. and not a sign OF small /
industries OF any kind. This was in
marked contrast to italian. Spanish.
and German cities and towns where +
almost every family has its little 4
domestic industry
19 Dee, 1919.-Out early and went
az once 70 the museum. An imposing
pile Of gray granite. Morning OF in
tense interest. Exceedingly full and
well classified collections Of every
-uluE Ee-ALluB 10 irish history. archie I.
1logy. art and industry. Specially
interested in the specimens Of ancient
Industrial arts and crafts, and in the
Did musical instruments. notably the /
many antique harps Of the various
familiar Irish patterns, and the bag
pipes.
The Dublin museum has the finest
collection in the world Of bronze age I
and implements, and molds
Tor making same; also the best col
ection Of gold ornaments Of the
bronze age and other prehistoric
periods. Wonderful metal and enamel
work in greatest variety; also illumi-
iated manuscripts and ancient fabrics.
Fine collection OF oriental art Qn-
liza, Persia, etc-), worries. fnlaid
metals, and carved woods. Much at
IGNITION paid to the historical exhibits.
The commercial and industrial ex-
libits iu an annex are she result Of an
earnest but pathetic and in planned
Effort to arouse Interest in aru and
industry with a view to revival
Visited the National gallery of art.
A particularly interesting collection
IF national portraits, both paintings
md eugraViugs; the spirit Of Ireland
veli exampled here, strong men and
noble women. patriots, statesmen.
.hurchmen. scientists, writer's; a val {
liable collection or modern paintings .