Evening star., 1920-04-04

piumage Of various domesticated
birds have been successfully manipu-
lated into millinery ornaments of
high order OF excellence"
In five words, a corner of the veil
was lffted-"stimulus" they referred
to FOR further inventive inspirations"
What's that stimulus? American trade
orders pointing toward the billion!
You may be interested to know
they continued, what the United
states Treasury has done with the
forfeited paradise and other plumage,
OF great value. AS it would be incon-
sistent with the spirit of the law to
sell goods which may not enter the
country legally. for commercial use.
they have been placed with the De-
partment Of Agriculture and the ZOO
illogical and Audobon societies for
educational purposes"
The spring of 1920, indeed, Is fat
with fate.
1t is five years after. And here, for
all to see, Is an admirable civic move
ment, In which the American trade
ITSELF, spontaneously, by its best ele-
ments physician, heal thyself) wins
grandly. the first throw from the box
abroad. Eleven. seven. says the lit
tie gallopers!
Judge, then, at home-as they say
in Marseilles.
Since the prohibition Of wild plum
age In America 1 am informed. there
has been no legal entry of aigrettes
and paradises. Yet. in the five years.
when purchase and sale have been IL
legal, there have been twenty times
Rs much sold as remained in America
at the moment OF prohibition"
I asked Kurzman.
'It is surprising,"- he said, that
reputable concerns in America still
handle an article that Is so illegal.
They do 1t. They expose. although the
sale Is prohibited. But the govern
ment and Audubon Society expect to
puts Americans who come and go
from Europe to America in a bad
light. A woman comes to the custom
house not knowing that the feathers
on her hat are under ban. They are
liable to cut them off, or they may let
her go through with them as appare:
In use. II 1t be business woman, a
foreign buyer, they are pretty sure to
let her co. without objection, to her
New York hotel, with the hat on
then they think its good chance to
go and look her over"
So. you see. there must have been
some downright secret smuggling
downright and downy. The magnates
Of the trade have found a more ef-
fective check. to uphold the arms of
What's it?
A more attractive article!
The rosy spoonful has taken to the
rocks. screeching and scrabbling in
despite. The little white heron, flying
crooked with jealous passion, snaps
clack! clack.-at Palm Beach ladies'
noses.
Do not look for consistency in silly
birds. Seek the jewel, rather. in Con-
gress and the departments at Wash
ington. Everybody knows what the
little white heron said to the big blue
CORA:
There was no necessity for this law.
They might as well stop all game
shooting and fishing because a few
crooks killed out of season. They
could easily have stopped those fell
lows. Instead. they stop any one from
picking up discards! Every bird sheds
its season. But this Is old stunt"
The fantasies collees aren't.
Three times Lewis promised to
show me the glorious articles, and
three times failed me. The third time
found a rosy peach with little ap-
pies.
These are genuine" I said. 81
know it by the feel"
Rosy Spoonbill did not deny it. She
held up the two crippled but genuine
paradise plumes in genuine admira-
tion. In the best Paris sets. it seems.
you must disguise your paradise by
winding it into knot with the curl
ing irons-in order to look unpreten-
tious while yet showing you can buy
EN-. Both Of these had been reduced
to hooks" It is a shame to spoil
them so; but does it not glo-ri-ous-ly
proclaim the American 'fiuence?
Couldn't it be done in imitation"
asked. q
ssyyI
Ave Paris workmen who can make
them"
This is retailers line of talk.
1t began with limitations.
Five years ago two devoted fowl
came forth and offered-I will name
said: mo. it doesn't hurt much. Go
ahead. and save the brides"
Peacocks' tail feathers drop on the
lawn. like ladies giving cast-off hats
to poor relations. But also you can
pull 'em. 1t is astonishing what can
"cut peacock: and the "glycerin
process" for hangers and trailers pro-
duces pure wonders of filmy graceful
ness. You would swear them brins of
paradise and egret.
Then the genius of Paris proceeded.
Why not beautifuller than nature?
Cutting, gluing, curling, combining
and transcendental dyeing. Here
came in, I think. the true Partisan
inspiration. to SO glorify the sad
clothes of domestic birds. like pleas
ants and parrots. hens, turkeys, pi-
geons, geese, grouse and bayanes.
Grand things really began in the late
summer of 1918 while pounding on
the boche, who came lots less mach
Paris.
A young man milliner. nephew of
Lewis. with exquisite taste in these
THINGS Ia Monsjeur Gaston-all
grandes DANES of Paris know him.
sYou ought to count 800 francs. 400
francs, for a girls hat" he said. You
want to maintain her nice, I Judge?
She don't absolutely need 1000 francs.
5000 francs, to put three flames of
tiful and very much the mode. You
see," he started to explain, "the dane
That is how he put 1t. but others
are more outspoken.
"In Paris" says an old. rich leader.
aigrette. At such places as the Ritz
or the Meurice. where everybody can't
get in, or at Claridge's or even the
st. Didier dancing, you'll not see
them, but the nouveaux riches are
sporting them in punches. to snow
their money. They are no novelty TO
really chic Partisan women, and they
are considered just trifie gaudy. IN
the taste of more flamboyant beauty,
as Of Spain. Greece. Italy
Anything to ignore the American
influence.
And rightly.
When rude men in Washington. by
edict, constrain proud femininity
across an ocean. though SO gently
that it be not noticed, leading them
to higher things. they let 1t go at
that. without putting the dots on the