Evening star., 1920-05-23

here goes.
The main trouble is that people in
sist upon considering it from prac-
tical point of view. This is an error.
The movement is symbol, not piece
of economics.
1t is a flag to the vast army oI
anxious ones in this continent no
one would consider square OF strlpeu
bunting as a practical metHou " pul
ting troops into battle action nor
would they consider it of practlcal
value in compelling men to love the
country. One might go also deeper
into symbols of sacred and reverend
objects which, have led men throu II
the ages and which have stoou iof
certain movements toward the better
ment of human kind.
This is the real meaning OF the over
alls movement. When it is discussed,
for and against, as blow against tne
dreSSmakerS, as a means OF raisiis
the price of the mechanics garment
the argument should fall fiat and stare
No one really cares for overalls as
fashionable garment. They are I'M
practicable and impossible for those
who do not do r, ugh work with tnelr
hands. They were rather unfortunate
as a choice for a symbol. as the people
who really suffer in this day are not
those who wear overalls.
Old clothes that were patiently ola
are a better symbol. but they are not
theatrical and they are not always
discernible. No one expects to see
overalls become the garment of those
who teach and lecture and work at
desks, or save human life In the nos
pitfalls, or bring up children to be good
citizens.
Ii is not a blow against the manu-
facturer, the dressmaker. the tailor
These people are not fond of the ter
rife prices they feel they must ask
No one seems to know at what point
to stop, but there is no doubt that
economy is practiced as well as
preached. and if sufficient people join
IN il prices are bound to go down ana
every one will rejoice. Every. one IS
clamoring to get out of the circle
The entire truth is that people are
never economic unless they are COM
PEELED to be. but as there are millions
of women and men on this continent
who have little money for clothes
there should soon arise compelling
reason toward economy.
There has been no complaint on the
part of dressmakers concerning their
business 1t has been a subway rush
for nearly two years. Their only COM
plant is lack of labor and overhead
charges in getting out gowns. They
have the same patronage as of old.
Despite the cost of houses and food a
certain set of women who have always
bought good clothes go on buying
them. even though the price is three
times what 1t was.
Last October the dressmakers In New
York were terrified at being compelled
to ask a minimum price of $500 for
most Of their frocks. yet the selling
of gowns at this price has been great
ar y1yhn
There are none so wise as to pre-
sent a remedy. There are none so calm
as to be serene under the stress of
the times. Money has become the OBJ
session of the millions. No one is re-
served concerning expenses. Few other
topics of conversation hold the inter-
est wherever human; folk are fore
gathered.
We are quite sure that nothing is
so expensive as labor and that the
cost of the material with which ap-,
parel Is made is of slight importance.
There are dressmakers today who
ask $95 for a gingham frock-and get
IT. There are shops that sell gingham
gowns for $40 as considerable re-
duction from the original price be-
cause they are old stock. These $40
gingham frocks are half of coarse cot
ton net, the inside belt is of cotton.
the hooks and eyes are huge and care
lessly sewed. There are no shields and
the ends of the threads are not
clipped.
There is no economy in such pur-
chases as these. Whenever one in
quires the reason for a coat and skirt
Of fine striped awning cloth costing
1885 one is told that the labor for
making 1t costs so much that the tai |
Tor can scarce make a profit. When !
one is asked $325 for a plain coat suit |
Of tweed or homespun and one re- /
minds the tailor of the price of the !
the explanation is that there !
Is a minimum wage of $50 a week to 4
tiveness on his part.
1t is quite easy to see that II denim |
should become fashionable ma |
.erial there would be little difference
between a suit or frock Of 1t and one
of crepe or homespun. Even II one
furnishes her own material not much |
IS subtracted from the price.
Women who have not bought new and
.ostly clothes this year know that the
anne thing is true in every department
md finishing. When 1t costs woman
so to have a pair. of curtains made
Il cretonne, which she furnishes. 1t
9 time to be aghast. Explanation: the
rice of the sewing people at 81 per hour
md their slowness in producing.
question seriously and bear it in mind |
she cannot economize as long as she
,ays any one else to do the work. If
he can find that gem OF seamstress
yho has not raised her price per day
more than double the original price. she
s in luck. She is also fortunate If she
an find any seamstress free during the
ear. with the exception Of July and
August. 1t is as bad in the small towns
IS in the great cities. The few women
Who are left to do home sewing are en-
,aged months ahead.
X
Must women, therefore. learn to make
heir own clothes? Is this the only !
reasonable, economic solution? But will |
hey do it? Can they do it? Not every |
woman is gifted in the art of fitting.
utting, and sewing. nor has she the
trength to carry it through. Does the
emedy lie with the manufacturers? Is
t possible for them to make clothes in
uch large numbers that they can sell
hem below home production?
Every woman knows that the trouble
With a cheap gown from the manufac-
urer is the careless way in which 1t is
put together. But there Is a remedy for
hat which clever women have seized ,
,pon with Quickness. This Is to pay the
small price for a factory
yown which has coarse hooks and eyes,
bad betting, irregular seams and usually
/ mass of threads left around in folds
and hidden places; the woman goes over
such gowns with fastidious care, seeking
he threads. substituting small snaps for
he heavy hooks and eyes, putting in a
silk betting. q good pair of shields Then
she gets the worth Of her money.
1t is an excellent thing that we ap-
oroach the season Of warm weather at
his crisis. Hundreds of women have
the courage to attempt thin frocks
which are not made of sturdy cloth.
They can obliterate Innings and struggle
ri q In 10 70 he