Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-01-02
245 KINDS Of CHEESE
j. S. EXPERTS STATE
Department of Agriculture Issues
an Interesting History of the
Many Varieties.

! Department of Agriculture that there
are about 245 known varieties of cheese.
| These range literally from A TO L--from
| Abertam to Ziger They include cheescs
made of goats milk and sonr milk, aided
| and ahetted bv divers chemical ingredl-
! cnts which IL were not always appetizIng
| to describe The data gathered by the De
partment of Agriculture set forth IN
| detail the processes whereby chtrses
are made, the temperature Mt WIN n
they arc cooked and the derivation of
| their various names.
In the matter Of the origin and an
cestry of cheeses much interesting IN
formation is presented For example.
''BelIclav," a soft rennet cheese made
from whole milk and sometimes called
'"rete de Maoiues,' or Monk Head,
| has history remarkable even IN the
case Of cheeses where old age Il n quality
To be cultivated This cheese VIC are asstir-
cd, originated with the monks Of tho Can
ton of Bern. Switzerland some time
during the early years Of the ftecnth
century, and is made to-day exclusively
in that quarter.
"Bric,' cheese probably more IA
niliar 10 the epiclires of tins country,
has been manufactured in France for
hundreds Of vear3 Mention al II has
/ been found IN folios 0f as earlv date NJ
l407 lis most proli ic centre fs N the
Department Of the Seine-ct-Marnees
department including Neaux, oui-
ommiers and Niclun The beeilius that
forms the rcd coloration il a we'll known
organism older even than "Brie, known
10 cheese makers as bacillus rnatails,
a growth that occurs on the surface and
produced cnszms. whlch. IN turn cause
n gradual and progressive breaking down
of the case in from the exterior toward
the centre A. the experts put It. he
interior az nncned eheese varies IN
consiatencv from Wayp - semi-llqHid
and has %rtv pronounced odor ami
! sharp, characteristic taste.
i 4 curious genealogical fact apT aarS
/ in the case of The Derivation of arI".
cavaJlo. which Is a sumeuh hat peculiar
i cheese made from either whole Or partly
SKINNED cop : milk Various explanations
+ have hncn offered n 70 the origin II the
/ name Literally. u Is horse cheese,
/ but WHY NJ, ono for sofno yeas could
i tell. II originated IN southern Italy. Int
IL now bclng extensively made N the
northern part 81 that klndEotn there
arc two ordinations 81 10 how ftis
pecuhar rarnc came to he gwen to this
cheese. either II which NAV hc authenfle.
me Is ffsAI TIE FEt4&f v - ift-& Aitss -
the region of Monte Cavallo. ihe Other
is that the imprint Of horses heal
vas stamped upon each separate cheese
+ ~ a trade mark e 'aciocayailo Is usually
kept for months and then grated and used
for fiavoring sol rs mafaFon n other
foods II u not eaten by horses.
"Camcnhcrt cheese Is an example
Of the few chooses which have been
successfully initiated II the niied
states [ amcmbcrt Is Fald 70 have
originated III revolutionary times II
+ Camclnhert tho Department of Ofne
in northwestern France Its popularity
being great investigators have long At
i tempted to make A American brandy
/ The Storrs Agricultural Expci rncnt.
Station in Connecticut ri last produced
/ a substitute that Is "a edible as the teal
/ thing Other European varieties sncces s
f,llly initiated in this country arc the
Swiss or "Emmentd and the Ilm-
burg types.
Native American cheeses are few and
far between The oldest Of tins class
seems % be .Isigny cheese who
originated about thirty five years ago
in attempts to initiate GaIuambe7t.
The proper ripening for afnembert
was not secured hence distinctive
name Was gwen ID the rev brand
Is slightly larger than Camembeft. but
Of the same shape The rpened prod
uct bears close resemblance to LIN
burg
cheese. It y a first ma IL. II Is saId
in Monterey county, ahforn}a. about
a quarter OF a century ago, and VA.
then called Monterey cheese Is
Inanufaoture involves methods closely
/ approac hing the granular euFd process
for "Cheddar cheese,
The data compiled by the experts OF the
! Departntnt Of Agriculture contains some
valuable analyses OF The cheeseS. 9ne Is
surprised to learn, for instance, that EdaTn
contains from - u 37 and a flaelon per
cent Of water. from - to = per cent tat,
from, = 10 So per cent pfotetds, amIds,
&c, no mix, sugar 0f laefIe acid and ffom
10 ller cent ASH Other cheeseS con
sain thf sarue ingredients II different pro-
portions. plus more or less gypsum, salt
mould, and incidental Substances. be
notorious LlmouTg u about oae-tourth
protled
The process of manufacture of cheese
Is elaborate hi the eaec oi RoqueIorf
/ ii approaches fine at the operation
beginning bv heating evening milk to a
Z temperature OF from tiV 10 ttb dtsbl ete
Fahrenheit. cooling Il and keeping II over
night The mixture Is then set with
rennet ST q temperature of about 9d tie
gvees In from one 10 tWo hours after
the addition Of rennet tie cnrd Is oat until
The pa. ticlcs ar about the size IF walnut-
The whey winch rises Ia the surface Is
dipped of and the curd Is put into hooPs
that are about 81 : nches in diameter
and 81 , inches in height
The hoops arc flied usually II three
LAYERS a layer Of mouas bread crumbs
being lnterposcd between the first and
second LAYERS The bread ased fer tins
purpose Is prepared from wheat and
barfev iiorr eith the addltionof whey and
d httle sineqar Il Is thoroughly baked
aud kept III moist place from Tour to
six weeks during which tlnle II becomes
! pcrmcated with a growth Of the mould
/ referred 10 above lho crust IS removed
and tho interior Is crumb 81 very fine and
slftod. hc cheese Is subjected 10 pres
anrc. ghich is adEally increased for ten
to twelve hours Il is turned usually
one hour sitter putting into hoops At
the end n period Of twelve hours Il Is
wrapped IN cloth and taken 10 the first
curing room The cloths are frequently
changed dufiHg tire ten to twelve day
the cheese remains ~ this place.
Formerly, tt quote one "t the ey-
pcrts, 'tilC manufacture IT the cheese
up 10 This stage was carried on by the
shepherds themselves, but IL recent