Evening star., 1920-07-04

DOTTED CREPE, WITH PLEATED
TUNIC AND DOUBLE SASH TO GIVE
A LONG LINE AT HIPS. ALL LINES
ARE STRAIGHT. NOT CURVED. AND
SLIGHT FULLNESS AT HEM OF
SKIRT BREAKS THE SEVERITY OF
THE NARROWNESS.
NEXT is A COAT SUIT OF SUPPLE
DARK GRAY FLANNEL WITH
SLIGHT FULLNESS AT WAIST IN
TO ACCENTUATE LENGTH FROM
NECK TO WAIST. THE SKIRT HAS
A FREE MOVEMENT AT THE
KNEES TO SUGGEST SLENDER
NESS.
and it has passed without criticism
until recently Now it is taboo.
The upward drawn flesh simply
broadens, expands and becomes an
ugly pad that is out of all proper
| tion to the smallnesS of the hips.
| The brassiere with it's possibility of
holding in this flesh not only becomes
| necessity, but it fails to do its work
after few years.
AS an accessory, it is always
| necessity to the stout woman, but if
/ she uses it as corset then she mere
! ly pushes up the surplus flesh toward
! the neck and gives her figure that
really dideous appearance OF a spread
| ing adder as an artist cruelty called
! it.
| Flesh must go somewhere. No arti-
! fetal restriction will eliminate it. 1t
merely displaces it. 1t becomes a
question of where one prefers 1t to go
Surely it is better to evenly dis
| tribute it and keep it securely bal
! anced. No woman who has to strug-
| gle with flesh should permit herself
| the comfortable pleasure of wearing
! rubber corsets. They do not hold the
! figure and they certainly permit 1t
! = until cuPVRStS the haremS
/ of the east. Let her exercise in them
I if she must have them. They have
! the merit of reducing the thick flesh
! about the waist.
/ The corset. even though firmly built,
should be low. Otherwise it will push
J the flesh upward and outward The
brassiere must be used to hold in the
/ bust and it should be well cut, not
, important it should snugly hold in
J the top of the corset bone. Some
| women see to this through using a
silk inside belt which they pin around
the figure at the top of the corset
i This piece of uglineSS is to be
| fought by all women 1t is one of
the defects of all corsets, even those
which lace in front
1t may not be necessary to advise
, woman not to put over or under her
corset any garment that has thickness;
she may be too well aware of this ne
/ cessitY to be warned. Jersey silk is bet
ter than any muslin, although the lean
ing of smart women IS toward exquisite
garments of French nainsook. filet lace
and fine Irish crochet Yet the superb
ority of crepe de chine and silk jersey
for the heavy woman is inconteStable.
She should be timd about wearing
short silk shirt beneath the corset for
the reason that its lower edges wrinkle
upward and form a slight ridge just
where ridges should be avoided. The
envelope chemSe is better. Over the
corset should go the brassiere, never of
heavy and voluminous lace bands, and
below it a pair of thin silk knicker-
bockers or a narrow, short petticoat of
fine fabric without ornamentation.
1t is said by those who try to reduce
women through diet that the heavy
woman eats bread and butter as though
she were famished: and it might be
added that she also goes straight to
bright colors as though she were saw
Iage
Possibly, it is species of orientalsm,
the flesh, the food, the vivid taste.
Whatever it is, the two instincts must
be quelled in order to eliminate the first.
AS for diet. that is a subject for the
tdieticiau. but as for clothes each dress
maker knows what to suggest for the
client who has lost slmness.
Red and its dynasty, heirs and as
signs" as Senator Lodge had it in his
convention speech, must be banished.
Purple comes under this list. which in
cludes orange, rose, terra Gotta, henna,
lis taboo, except in chiffon or crepe
simply draped for the gown of cere-
mony,
[ Green in all its varied manifestations
tmust be eliminated Blue in it's null
5 tiple colorings can be accepted, if one
: discards kings blue. Horizon blue il