Evening star., 1920-02-29
NY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

century heroine, but omit the smelling
salts and the love affair with a curate
II YOU prefer Egypt, and think that
Your type Is slumbrOus. subtle and mys-
terious, then the milliners are glad to
convert you into a lady Of old Alex
andria.
If you like the Russian-or rather, let
us say, Slavic, as the French do not care
to give us fashions these days that are
labeled Russian-then those who make
head coverings will offer caps that look
as though they had been worn by an
cient Georgian priests, or perhaps
jeweled bandeauX and dangling orna-
ments that might have been seen on
the head of Catherine the Great at a
fancy dress ball in st. Petersburg.
X X i X
II you are winsome, then the milliner
will help YOU to look 1t. II you think
you are daring and show that you like
a piece OF adventure in life, there are
hats galore which will aid and abet
you in the inclination. If you wish to
look like the Paris boulevards, there are
small, rakish hats that were once spon-
sored by Eve Lavalliere, the boyish act
ress. who started a world wide fashion,
then retired to convent And there
are others as straight and severe as the
Gibson heroincs wore in their day.
1t would appear from casual obscry-
ance that the mflliners have no chart
Or compass. They do not keep to well
marked track. They are wandering over
vast stretch of periods, centuries and
(lfNn ,ftyl,
nationalists.
All they ask is to suit the public All
the public ask is unceasing variety No
two women wish to wear the same hats
once upon time things We're different
The metallic turban was Il case in
point 1t was attractive. 1t was quite
allurins 1t struck new note in mil
linery. 1t gave women a chance to look
either informal or ceremonious, but too
many women bought it; and the odd
part of it was that women purchased it
in different parts OF the country.
1t is rarely worn today. 1t may
serve as a foundation for brown, blonde
or black chantilly lace, but in it's orisi-
nal daring Persian simplicity it has van
ished.
W '"S '"'pi'tiiN" W thC IuGldlIlC
ban also happened to the colored An
cora turban Of a year ago. This hat
had spread like an epidemic woman
who paid $35 for it on Fifth avenue
would be considerably irritated to find
it for IS in smal town a thousand
miles away And no matter what wom-
en- paid for il. they were peevish over
the fact that a few hundred other wom-
en- had been able to make the turban at
home from small piece OF Angora and
a half yard of woolen lace
Commonplace as the metallic cap be-
came. the oriental turban has not van
ished with the incoming Of English
garden hats, Victorian pokes and gilt
tering Slavic headdresses.
Paul Poiret is responsible for the
folded cap which takes its name from
Morocco, from whence it came. 1t
would seem that Poiret was about six
months in advance OF tho times when
he threw that French colony, its inspira-
ton and its colorful costumery into the
melting pot. ...,. .-,-,a-
Another curious transformation Of the
oriental turban Is significant of the pro-
nounced tendency toward ancient Egypt
ana Byzantium. This Is not new note.
One might say 1t has had its day. 1t
continues to grip the ina magination, how
ever. and every few months there is
return to an emphatic suggestion Of
the costumery Of these ancient lands
** \ \
But tho Moroccan influence 10 some-
thing new. Poiret 10 not alone In ac-
centuatiRg It,. although hs may have
been the first designer to SEQ its chance
in q world that had become familiar
with the fs;r spots of the earth Rodier,
the master weaver Of materials, has
gone to- Morocco for suggestions; or no
may have taken from the Arabs who
flooded Paris during the conference the
ideas that he can incorporate In modern
fabrics. Dressmaksrs in Paris are
touching up the original Moroccan cos
tunes into something that 10 weaYable
by the American woman, and these
gowns will be shown In America neGt
month.
With this influence SuidinS the hands
Of the designers one may be quite cer-
tain of tho Moroccan touch in MILL
merry. and the turban which 10 closely
wrapped about the head with thin
veil dropped below the eyes 10 4 good
imitation Of the headdress worn by the
women Of one important French colo