Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1920-09-16
FALL FASHIONS
One Piece Dresses PrevaiI-Lov Waist
Lines Favored
Trom the New York Pos)


From the New York Pos)
There Is subtle difference in the style
phases or the little dresses" for day-
tune appearance that distinguishes them
from the immediate predecessors, and
"hich' at first glance. may not be ap-
parent to the superficial observer. The
same simplicity of line marks their shap-
ing, the same girllsh attributes of neck
ana sleeve details are again introduced,
and dlscrete sober blue tricotine or the
sombre hues of brown. black. or green in
duvetyns velvets, or satins.
Nevertheless, to be quite up to the mi
mute In our one-piece frocks. we shall
tind 1t necessary to be off with the dress
or last season and to contentedly indulge
ourselves In one of the new models.
upon close observation we note many
changes In the autumn dress. One is that
the erstwhile plaits Of universal patron
age have been superseded by odd little
pieces Of cloth. fluted after the manner
of the Egyptian garment. and appended
to the slim little frock, here. there, and
everywhere In the most unexpected man.
ner. but with a careful eye to balance
and proportion. making for an artistic
and wearable ensemble. Or, II one is
wearied of plaits. French, ancient Egyp-
tached. flynS, or quiscent, then there Is
the ribbon or braid Internationally
introduced across the hip line in several
bows. and thence going It's own sweet
way to the skirt hem where each ribbon
strand or braid piece is pointed
weighted with an ornamental ball
button or braid device. Always there
is a sense of activity in the wear
ing of such frocks-swinging panels
an In describable appearance of dash and
go. eminently characteristic of the verve
and independence of the latterday Amer
lean woman.
COLOR
Never has color been so lavishly applied
to dresses whose basic principle is one Of
service It has been infused by way of
the embroiderer's needle. the ribbon CIR
die. the vestee, the hem facings-any-
where that the fertile fancy of the de-
sisner has suggested.
The influence of the departing season
Is shown in the new modes. principally
in the sleeves lengths and the neck out
lines. Without question the short sleeve
will prevail for early autumn. It is very
girlish for one thing. and accords so
thoroughly with the collarless neck and
the abbreviated skirt that II. alb
would tend to mar the beauty of
the frock as whole. OF course.
there is the sleeve of threequarter
length which few Of us consider
Speaking in a style sense, there seems
no halfway halt for the sleeve Either
1t must be short or it must be long. From
Paris comes word that several of the
leading countries have signed their inten-
ton or stressing the sleeve OF wrist length
by way OF marked departure from the
modes OF the passing season. And I'M
doubtedly the American woman will glad
ly endorse such length a little later
on.
Practically all the cloth frocks are in
one-piece cut. or, at least, In one-piece
effect Many Of them incline to narrow
belted fronts and flat straight backs.
whose line from neck to hem is unbrok-
en- by the appearance Of belt even of
the inconsequentiai string variety. 1t II
the new way-a sort of dress In front and
coat In the back. Fulness Is usually
adjusted at the sides. But fulness Of any
sort is thing very carefully treated
by the fashion makers The very adjust
ment OF folds. wrinkles, OF trucks Is tho
one sure guide to the status OF tho de-
signer. ana either makes or mars the
style prospects OF the model. II may
he for that reason that dresses absolute
ly nnbelted are among the now things. A
sort Of modern Interpretation OF the prin-
cess posed against the background Of the
Moyen Age. Such models look like the
simplest OF the simple gowns: but they
are most difficult Of achievement
Few OF the Dresses are wide through
the hem. In certain OF the redingote
types there is relative suggestion OF
width IN the tunic because Of lack OF
width In the foundation skirt. Such tun-
les are usually slashed at the sides. down
the front and back. and become, in fact,
panels.
The low waistlne prevails to the ex-
clusion, practically, of other sorts. 1t Is
not the Oriental suggestion Of last season.
but the dropped line of the chemise robe.
not novel but eternally youthful. and
therefore eternally desirable
Velvet is to enjoy another dress season.
Frequently 1t is combined with a contrast
ing cloth, chiffon or satin. the two sec
tons deliberately embroidered. Beaded
garniture appears