The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-12-19
iocial and economic changes that peril

social and economic changes that peril
odically appear.
1t has been many moons since the full
skirt with length was worn by smart
women, therefore no one is quite sure
how the procession will look. 1t Is well
to think Of II now.
1t is quite probable that the extra
length will continue to be exploited in
evening frocks rather than in those for
the day. II the new ones are built with
the uneven hem in imitation OF those
worn by the French, nothing is to be
feared. The fashion mas been tried out
for months by those who are really
courageous and who depart from the
common standard through determined
effort.
There is a small set in Paris who
cling to the extra short skirt for the
dance, but the woman who is leading
fashion sees to It that her skirt nearly
touches the ankle and that 1t is quite
narrow at the hem.
When she goes a step further 10 this
approaching fashion she adopts the
near Empire skirt which Lanvin spon-
sored last August. 1t Is often In trans
lucent green. and sometimes In tatfeta
with a hem that measures about five
wards around and a bodice that comes
very near to fitting the figure.
When slight young married woInsn
wear this model they actually press In
the figure TO conform It to the SEM
blance of a moderately small waist.
where Is the waistlineY
It is a foregone conclusion that when
the skirt goes down the waistline goes
up. Queer that this should be So Out
1t Is
The French woman is better able
than we are to wear a frock that Is
well defined at the normal waistline.
She has the kind of figure that stands
that kind of treatment. She rarely de-
velops a Strengthened waistline as do the
Anglo Saxons, especially the Americans.
She gets fat, frankly fat. In more un-
pleasant way than we do. but the struc-
ture Of her figure calls for sharply
marked waistline and 1t remains.
She has not been able to wear the
narrow chemise froclS as well as we DO
for the reason that she has curves below
the waist. We seem to be able to get
rid OF or to disguise that curve
with the exception of n few smart
frocks the Paris clothes show the waist
line defined, but not compressed. The
ornamental belt Is just where Nature
makes that break in the figure below the
ribs. There is little attempt to accentu-
ate the First Empire waistline. That
Josephine look" as Mrs. Wharton calls
II in 1.-THE Age of innocence" 10 absent.
One might rather say that the attempt
is toward "a Eugene look"
There Is little that suggests either the
First or Second Empire in the new mode
Of dressing In Paris, the mode that has
superseded the Orientalism of peace. IL
is unpleasantly Victorian, X one must be
truthful. At least. the extremists strike
that note. Carried out by slim young
creatures, tho full gathered taffeta skirt
and the tight bodice with It's pinked
ruchings are agreeable. The thought
OF the middle aged in these furbelows
gives one pause. But, as the Hlndus
say. what is to be will be-"
The Uncertainty of the sleeve.
with the skirt growing long and full.
the waist line sliding up the figure. what
are the sleeves dolng7 How long or
how short does the Parisienne wear
them7 She has not made up her mind
on the subject, to Judge by the diversity
one sees. She has not abandoned the
bathing suit sleeve for the afternoon
frock. but II In not considered smart.
II Is merely worn.
The sleeve that gets down to the
wrist In some manner. no matter II the
way Is unconventional. Is the one
adopted by those who lead. The Dress
makers sponsor this kind. In America
the three-quarter Spanish shape IL the
substitute for the tiny sleeve that was
worn in September. but In France more
ingenuity ie shown. There ls new