davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

pany but now connected with an A.
lantic- Pacific steamship line having
offices in London, is expected in Sa-
lem during June according to word
received Friday by F. E. Mangis. of
Mangis Brothers. Mr.. Wilson has
planned to leave London. May FL. for
the United States. He viii spend three
weeks in Salem and in July will levae
for Japan. He viii be absent from
London about a year. during which
time, Mrs. Wilson will retain their
residence in the British metropolis
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

l have devoted over twenty years
Of faithful service as coroner, and
nave r0sAlur - hide or explain, have
made no mistatements of myself or
opponents, a mfully competent to con-
tinue the office as in the past and
will appreciate your support. W :
Clough for Coroner. paid ADV 1917
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

detained by police here after he had
appeared and asked for a bed Tues
day night, was returned to Mentavile
wednesday evening in the custody OF
M' I, Merritt. an attache of the san
itarium.
Big furniture sale tomorrow 1:se
p. m. Oak Lodge addition, end Of 5.
14th and Wilbur. 1ei
The original Revelation music IT
Moose hall Saturday night, dancing
and singing. 121.
Big furniture sale tomorrow 1880
p. m. Oak Lodge addition, end of 5.
14th and Wilbur. l21
Revelation. dance to their s.iusic
in the big ball at the armory Friday
night. Ladies free admission. 1919
While Aldren Chamberlain was
away from his room in the River
View House Wednesday thief en-
tered, broke into his euitcase. and
stole new Colt automatic revolver.
Mr. Chamberlain reported the theft
to police, who Thursday were inves-
tigating the affair.
Dance Auburn hall saturday night.
1898
$4,000 to loan on good security.
Phone SIS or see G. E. Unruh, Gray
building. 1899
G. A. r. veterans are invited to
attend the boy scout matinee free Of
charge at Ye Liberty Saturday, IL a
m. to see Soldiers of Fortune" 1918
A permit TO alter and repair his
residence at 974 North Summer street
has been issued to Lee L. Gilbert by
the city recorders office. Costs of
repairing and altering the house is es-
timated at $1,000. The work will be
done by j. W. Young and Son.
Boy scouts special matinee Satur-
day at II a. m. to see Richard Hard
ing Davis SOLDIERS of Fortune" ASK
your scout master 1918
Revelation, dance to their music
in the big ball, at the armory Friday
night. Ladies free admission. 1919
The funeral of William Ross Moses,
40, who died Tuesday night at the
Leonard rooming house, was held
at the chapel of Webb & Clough COM
pany at 1890 a. m. Thursday. Burial
followed in Odd Fellows cemetery.
Mr.. Moses came to this city four
months ago with his wife and three
children, and has been working at
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
GARD OF THANKS

We wish to thank our many friends
and neighbors for their kindness and
sympattE during the illness and
death of our beloved daughter I'd
sister; also for the beautiful floral Of
ferings we especially wish to thank
Mrs. Looney,--N. P. Williamson and
family. III
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Eff. Carleton. deputy state school
superintendent, returned Wednesday
from trip in southern counties where
he spoke at numerous meetings in ia
vor of the millage bills for elementary
schools
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Declaring his intention to become a
citizen OF the United States. Joachim
Kragman. 27. laborer and resident
of Turner. filed his first papers We'd
nesday with Clerk Boyer. He was
born al Wilstedt. Germany. and came
to the United States. August s5, 1911.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
WHY A CHANGEq

A. M, Clough, of the undertaking
firm of Webb & Clough Co. Salem,
has been coroner of Marion county
for more than twenty years and dur
ing this time has never had a reverse
decision by any jury. He has made
hundreds of investigations instead of
useless and expensive inquests
and has saved the taxpayers thous-
ands of dollars, His wide experience,
profession and character qualify him
for the office again. Vote Clough for
Coroner. (Paid adv.D 1917
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Another generous slate of new
members are to be initiated at the
meeting Thursday night in Odd Fell
lows hall of Capital Assembly No. S4,
United Artisans. Several funny stunts
nave been arranged for the initiation,
and a lively time is assured for all
members.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
PAGE SEVEN

league officers resulted in eieetins
Miss Mona Webb as president
c. A. Poole has sold his farm 10
some eastern people. and expects 10
move to his lower place son.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
RIGDoN F0R CORONER

KIGDON FOR CORONER
vote for Lloyd 7. Rigdon, repub-
mean candidate, for county coroner,
Emo the monopoly existing for "a
years. paid adv.) 121
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
Daily Statistics.
Died.

pgTNAM-J. S. Putnam, 72, at his
name 4S5 North 18th street, We'd
nesday Funeral at chapel of Rig
don & Son company, at 2:30 p. m.
Friday. Burial in City View ceme-
terry.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
lar

The woman's Relief Corps has been
invited to attend services at the First
Congregational church. Sunday. May
2S, at IL a. m All members are asked
to be at the north entrance at 10:45i
and march into church in a body.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Tyler Woolpert, of the Central
Pharmacy, is at the store again after
an illness of several days.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
RIGpoN EnR CnRnNER

RIGDON FOR CORONER
Vote FOR Lloyd T. Rigdon, repub-
lean candidate, for county coroner.
End the monopoly existing for "a
years. paid ady.) 121
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

s7-hEtEsNA
: NAV sl.-special city ana
: ..s,s primary elections, -.
: s,ss w 21. = Baseball. Salem
; n vs Newberg, Oxford
; fa,s ,,sv ss.-Baseball. Senators
: ny AnasMinnville, oxford Park
! ~ M.y 27-Baby clinic, Com
..r.isl club, 2 2. m.
: h ,ssw s6-27-Appollo Club
5 ..asert, Grand theater.
% Nav 2s.-Address by Wm'
: q Taft. at the armory.
Il Nav 21.-Portland Drama
..~,e @ presentation. opera
AV Nav sO.-Memorial day.
,nne American Legion
: letting, armory, 5 p. m.
i x x i = \ = =
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Love, jeweler, matchmaker. salem.'
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

See our ad on page s. 1918
Musicians of Salem, at recent
meeting, heartily endorsed Ivan G..
Martin, republican candidate for nom-
ination 10 the office of representative
for Marion county, in his effort 10
gain the position. Mr.. Martin is him.
self a musician and band leader and
is very popular with the players of the
city and surrounding towns.
Major Henry o. Miller, assistant
adjutant general of the state of Ore
gon. was in Portland Thursday at
tending to important business mat
ters connected with his office.
Everything is in readiness for the
Oregon Coast Artillery Corps encamp-
ments at Camp Lewis June ID to IL,
and July to 20, according ito Col.
James S. Dusenberry, C. A. c. inspec-
tor-instruetor, who returned to his
headquarters here Wednesday night
from the cantonment Col Dusenberry
has spent several days at Camp Lewis
making ready for the eneampments.
Sergt. Frank j. Jirak, sergeant-in-
structor for the Coast Artillery Corps,
returned to headquarters in Salem
Wednesday night from Ashland where
he inspected the First Company, C.
A. C. Sergt. Jirak declared that the
company made a splendid showing.
The Salem chapter of the D. A. r.
will meet Saturday afternoon at $3.50
at the home of Mrs. Homer Smith,
675 North Summer street
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

VERDEN NJ, MOFFITT
For city marshall. A courteous ami
fearless enforcement of the law. (ad)
121
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Baby chicks, 55S State. Phone 400.
1874
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

A. R. Wilson, formerly local man.
ager of the Postal Telegraph COM
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Baby chicks, 55S State. Phone 400.
124
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

BARNES-To Mr.. and Mrs. Floyd
Lee Barnes, of South goth street,
Friday, May A. daughter. She
has been named Beverly Boye.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

IN the interest of the willamette
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

L. Unruh was arrested Wednesday
evening by Traffic officer Moffitt on
a charge of speeding on East State
street. Unruh was cited to appear in
Municipal court Thursday afternoon to
enter plea to the charge.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Otto Nichols, 81, the escape from
the Sanitarium at Montavilla who was
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Big sale Of high class furniture to-
morrow 1850 p. m. 10th and Wilbur.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
the sawmin here

Big sale Of high class furniture to-
morrow 1850 p. m. 18th ana Wilbur.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Clanceys for Pansies. 12S N. Lib
erty 12l*
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20
LocKLEY WILL MAKE GOOD

Vote for Fred Lockley for sSsre-
tary of state. He is thoroughly famil,
lar with our state, its resources and
its needs He stands for economy, eff
ficiency and a square deal. (Paid
tadv) 121
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

A mature mind and an experienced
man for coroner. Vote for A. M.
Clough. (Paid ady) 1919
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Years, experience and a mature
mind have conserved taxpayers mon.
ey for twenty years and are qualified
to continue. Vote A. M. Clough for
coroner. paid adv.) 1917
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

detained by police here after he had
appeared and asked for a bed Tues
oay night, was returned to Mentaville
wednesday evening in the custody of
Al. I. Merritt, an attache of the san
itarium.
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Vote for Fred Lockley for secre-
tary of state. He is short on promises
but long on performance. paid
adv.) 121
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

A mature mind stands for eonser-
walton of taxpayers money. Vote for
A. NJ. Clough for coroner (Paid adv)
1918
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Big furniture sale tomorrow 1:se
p. m. Oak Lodge addition. end Of :
14th and Wilbur. 1ef
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

1t has ever been so, a mature mind
goes hand in hand with experience
and years. Vote for A. M. CloEh for
coroner. paid adv) 1873
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Dancing singing and that "Reve-
lation" music at Moose hall Saturday
night. l2l@
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Experience and years go hand in
hand. Vote for A. M. Clough for cor
oner. (Paid adv) 1919
Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980, 1920-05-20

Mrs Lucy Hall. Mrs. Minnie Bates,
Mrs. Murray 'Keefer, Sydney w. Hall
p, M. Blenkinsop, G. Murray Keefer
and Alfred Bates will give an enter
tainment at the Methodist Episcopal
church at Shedd, Friday evening.
Evening star., 1920-02-22

1t was the war. however, that brought
1t back into first fashion. The French
women did it so well that the Americans
again saw Its high merits.
The foundation Of this costume is the
fanciful skirt 1t is not Of cloth, as the
need for that kind of skirt is met in
the tailored suit which carries one or
two single blouses of its own the skirts
made or lace founces. Of crepe de chine,
Of faille. are liked and 1t Is not against
the law to drop black lace over a white
chiffon foundation, as in other times and
other manners.
Be assured that the skirt Is never
plain. whatever its fabric. and it Is rare
ly otherwise than black. Its distin-
gushing features are that 1t Is short
and 1t Is narrow at the hem. 1t usually
carries beneath 1t a pair Of lace stock
ings and high -heeled black satin slip
pers; gold slippers have been substituted
when the tunic was OF thin gold tissue.
These lace skirts are kept for after.
many blouses as one wishes. none Of
which is informal or severe. Satin, chif-
fon, bullion embroidered net. metallic
cloth and crystal embroidered net are
fabrics that are built into orentaiized
blouses that reach to the hips.
an these economy costumes, as they
are styled. there are black satin skirts
arranged with complicated drapery that
carry two blouses, one OF black chiffon.
loose and full. covered with blue pas
TILES OF velvet. The sleeves are in shat
new shape beginning to he accepted;
they are small at the armholes. spread
ing into fullness below the elbows and
tightly wrinkled at the wrist and over
the hand.
The other blouse Is OF cloth OF silver
embroidered in circles of jet. with long.
square Chinese sleeves lined with blue
satin. The sash is a part OF the blouse
itself. twisting twice around the hips to
finish In a knot, and ends at the side.
1t is also lined with blue satin the shade
called Chinese, also Egyptian.
1t Is quite easy for the woman with
vision to see that she can discard both
these blouses when necessity presses
and match up her skirt with a simple
bodice OF satin that carries nat collar
and cuffs OF old lace on good embrold.
cred batiste.
Really, 1t Is economical, and II has
quite delightful aspects. this wartime
fashion projected into peace.
Evening star., 1920-02-22

cloth skirts are not heavily stitched to
the silk underbodice, but slightly
stitched in order that the basting may
be easily removed. The Philadelphia
designer uses buttons and buttonholes,
still following out the idea Of children's
clothes; two or three silk slips are
made for each skirt; they are of twill
ed silk that stands frequeGe washing
and ironing. When soiled they are
merely unbuttoned from the skirt and
sent to the laundry. In this way they
serve as fresh corset covers. The
blouse of silk. jersey or georgette
when slipped over these separate
bodices save Themselves q lining.
1t Is good trick-one that every
woman with straight figure should
adopt. 1t creates q new method OF
dressing 1t should have been done long
ago, when adults first adopted Juvenile
lines.
So far it is not a general idea to but
ton the skirt to it's silk underbodice.
but it has such merits that the indi-
vidual who learns of it Immediately
adopts it. 1t has enough merit on its
side to be standardized.
1t Is rather O pity that so many tailors
insist upon the old, tho traditional way
Of putting a skirt to q waist belt, re-
fusing to accept this new method. even
under pressure. Every woman knows
that she must fight a battle of prime
Importance when she tries to get a
dressmaker or a tailor to depart from a
L. hA tn1
established method.
There Is a spirit Of perturbation
abroad among the dressmakers concern
ing this announced fashion for a skirt
and two blouses to substitute the one
piece frocks draped on single lining; /;
and the reason for the anxiety is the
narrowing fear that women may buy
have blouses made at home. There is
no doubt this will happen, but 1t prob
ably will not encroach upon the large
patronage which has been given to
dressmakers before and since the ar
mistice. If the dressmakers. you
know. could get sufficient help they
could amass fortunes this season
1t is interesting that the world OF
women is rather we'll divided into two
classes-those who buy at the shops and
after their clothes In their own sowing
rooms, and those who depend upon a
dressmaker for a we'll fitted costume.
No matter what the fashion. it rarely
splits up these classes.
+
1t Is difficult 10 make a large set OF
women believe that anything can be
done with satisfaction for their special
figures. for their style and their social
life unless 1t is done by those who ar
range each line and color in regard to
that Individual. These are the women
who do not like to buy ready to wear
clothes. They even balk at French
models, realizing that they seldom a,
American women and that their work
manship is poor In comparison with
American workmanship.
True, these models are pitched to-
gether In great numbers under tre-
mendous pressure while American buy.
srs sit In their hotels and wait for the
Evening star., 1920-02-22
Skirts and a Variety of Blouses

tion. All English literature has por-
trayed the heroine who takes to house
party one blouse for evening. another
for afternoon. In the southern states,
where many English social customs pre-.
vailed for centuries. this fashion ~
never been quite extinguished.
Evening star., 1920-02-22

but the details differ, which sounds
familiar, as 1t is a phrase our distin-
guished statesmen have banded about
for several months.
Tho difference between the tailored
suit of today and that Of yesterday lies
in the fact that the skirt and Jacket
are not Of the same cloth or design, al
though they may be in the same color.
, Another difference lies in the fact that
r. the jacket which belonged to the suits
Of other days could not be worn with
any skirt but its own. Today 1t Is SO
cut. arranged and chosen that it serves
as topcoat whenever one wishes such
a garment.
The difference between the one-piece
frock OF yesterday and the one that
comes in with the spring Is that the for
mer was made on one lining, 1t hung
in one piece from the shoulders and
permitted of no change or variety,
whereas the frock Of today Is built up
in two parts--a separate skirt with
two blouses, one for informal and Sne
for formal use.
There is still another difference be-
tween what was and what is to be: the
separate skirt is not put on betting at
the waist. 1t is attached to loose,
straight slip Of silk which fastens down
the back, and rarely has sleeves.
This idea has been copied from chill
dren's clothes. 1t was said to be the
custom of certain individualists who
would not permit a band around the
waist and who, together with their
dressmakers, evolved this trick OF get
ting the freedom given by child's pima
fore. ,-,r,, .i...
You can quickly see its advantages.
Our figures are not such as to permit
of a tight waistband There are many
women who are straight in the ngure
and who wear corsets to accentuate this
straightness. and every one knows that
a tight waistband needs a curved waist
or it will not stay where 1t Is put. IL
slips up and carries the skirt with II
over a straight corset. II the waistband
Is very loose. which it mas been during
the last two years In order that the
skirt might slip down on the hips ana
give the elongated line from shoulder 10
top Of skirt, then 1t Is apt to twist ana
turn as the wearer walks. A Phiiadei-
phia dressmaker who evolves her own
designs in sport clothes is the one held
responsible for the skirt that Is attached
Mt low waist line to the loose SILK
slip that runs to the shoulders.
There are women who object to this
idea because they wish to tuck IN their
shirt waists; IL they adhere to this type
of waist thep.tf,s new sk!rt p of no use.
But the majority Of women do not tuck
in their blouses. They no longer like
the DEFINITE waist line which cuts the
figure In two. Even when they retain
their coats indoors they do not like the
Inconvenience Of arranging the belt OF
the skirt. They adopt the outside blouse
because of its convenience and grace
According to the new method 1t slips
on over q skirt which carries an un-
derbodice.
: Women who are fastldious In the de-
tails Of their clothes see to u that the
Evening star., 1920-02-22

or any heavy top wrap. cannot pretend
coat and wishes to wear the gown with
out her usual protective coat, she sud-
denly realizes its lack Of sympathy with
the springtime.
The choice Of a skirt which carries a
clean. washable lining attached to the
waistband in combination with tunics OF
thin material that 60 over the lining
gives undoubtedly the delightful sense
Of fires mess which one seeks
Years ago, when women did not begin
to be as rxtravagant in clothes as now,
1t was an established custom to have
two or NOR, blouses to one skirt. The
generation that preceded this one was
quite given over to this method Of get
ting variety in dressing. The skirt Of
those days was black, in satin or in a
heavier, more fanciful material than
exists in these days, and one blouse was
simple. the other quite ornate. One was
somber in color. the other as brilliant
as a butterfly. No one hesitated to wear
the latter blouse to the dinner table. to
the theater or to whatever formal after
noon occasion was included In the
weeks work. E
Sandwiched in between that time and
the days OF the war. women looked with
contempt upon such proceedings. They
thought II quite a patchwork way to
dress. and this attitude continued over
two decades.
The contempt for it did not extend
to blouses for a coat suit. and there was
once fashion 10 have one blouse that
matched the suit. built in a thin ma
terial and splendidly ornamented as a
basic fount,at ton for the costume. That
fashion. unfortunately. died out when
the coat suit gave way to the one-piece
frock and topcoat for occasions OF
gayety. leaving the tailored costume for
rough and constant service
~
When the war crashed upon us,
French and English women Immediately
took up the former fashion Of different
blouses for one skirt. We In this coun-
try experienced small sacrifice In
clothes or food in comparison with the
European women, so there was little
change in our apparel; but over there
they were face to face with dire neces-
sity to get anything to wear, yet their
spirit Of courage insisted upon an atti-
tude Of sartorial gayety whenever their
soldiers were to be entertained.
In England the return TO this fashion
WAS not considered much Of an innova-
Evening star., 1920-02-22

Women who are fastldious In the de-
tails Of their clothes see to II that the
Evening star., 1920-02-22

Perhaps this Is another reason for the
change in the fact that, at the first touch
Of warm weather, women like upper
garments that can be changed and lin
ings that can be laundered. 1t is COM
pulsory TO wear the one-piece frock as
II is. with its lining more or less fresh.
II it is Of cloth, which 1t usually is. then
the fabric over the shoulders and sleeves
gives heaviness and warmth which is
not pleasurable when the season
changes.
The woman who has worn a one piece
frock for three months under u fur coat
Watauga Democrat. [volume] (Boone, Watauga County, N.C.) 1888-current, 1920-06-03
Annual Army Appropriation Bill Passed

The Senate has passed and
sent to conference, the annual
army appropriation bill, carry
ing S4l5,9l9,O0O. AS passed the
bill provides for an increase of
approximately S42,0O,OOO over
the House bill, but $3.50, 100000
less than the appropriation for
the present fiscal year. The
principal Senate increase was
S12,745,0O0 for the army air SER
vice making the total for this SER
vice S40,000,0OO.
The Senate eliminated House
provisions which would give the
army air service control of all
military aerial operations from
land bases and would confine ma
val aviation to feet operations,
feet shore bases, training of per.
sonnel and construction and ex-
perimentation work.
Authorization was given by the
Senate for the sale of the old ar
my transports Sherman, Sheri-
dan, Thomas, Logan, Buford,
Fitzpatrick, Crook and Warren,
and the howitzer plant at Erie,
Pa, and establishment from the
proceeds of the latter sale of a
government owned plant at Wa
tervliet arsenal, New York, fol
the manufacture of medium cali
Der field artillery.