Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-12-05
Queens of Another
Day We're Much In
terested Question
of the Sleeve, and
Several Styles Were
Inaugurated by
Royalty Predic-
lions for the French
Fashion Shows of
February.
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE

HEN William the Conoueror
M went to England. as one
puts it. with bloodshed.
devastation. new laws and
new fashions" he taught the men to
wear the sleeve which we carelessly
hang from, all our gowns today. 1t is
loose ,Sh to swing stones with
comfort and flares perceptibly Just
below the elbow to give freedom to
the pulling of long bow, if We used
them.
When George " was king he start
ed his men to wearing the sleeve
which may be worn in every frock
when the spring appears. 1t bulges
at the shoulder. fits the elbow, is
slasheo at The wrist, then flares over
the hand.
When Elizabeth was queen she
permitted her lords to wear the sleeve
which fits the arm and confines the
wrist, and this sleeve is shown today
where the fashionable mannequins
exhibit exclusive gowns.
!. Recently we abandoned the sleeve
for all the hours. Our war era may
be reflected through fashions as his
tory has reflected all wars. and the
bare arms and backs of the American
Will be, pictured as representing a
certain phase of dress.
<
No historian should put the fash
ion at our door. Its source lies else
where. We were year in adopting
IL. We smiled at France when her
women went about their business as
we'll as their pleasure with naked
arm and shoulders. dyed with copper
powder to give the appearance of
sunburn. We continued to have that
slightly derisive twist to the mouth
until We took up the fashion SO
intellectually that we failed to
excuse or apologize for our former
attitude.
1t ran a year. Those who like it.
whose frocks are fashioned after this
manner and whose stock of long
gloves IS not depleted, insist that
they win continue it. willy nilly. Very
well. One lays wager that they
won't. Fashion is too powerful.
France began her plans to abandon
the sleeveless street frock in the
month of June. The new gowns
shown to Americans in August gave
prominence to both long and short
sleeves. but this was merely another
evidence of the uncertainty of Paris
in regard to what America would buy.
When man or a nation is trying to
sell, variety is essential
AS for Paris, herself, one could read
fhe verdict against short sleeves as a
sentence written on the. wall She
vas tired of them. Nudity had found
its end. 1t was left to those who had
become suddenly rich enough to buy
great clothes without the knowledge
OF when and where they should be
worn
In September the American Dress
makers offered the long sleeve. It.
was more often refused than chosen.
Hundreds looked at it askance. They
had just succeeded in cutting of their
long sleeves into bands that did not
reach the elbow. Was this fashion
offered to tantalize them. they seemed
to ask.
In November women still wore the
short. severe sleeve in public. often
without gloves. Their arms appeared
strangely naked in contrast to the
newer fashion. The effect of being
out of the picture was strongly
marked.
Soon there was a hurrying and sour
rying by the women who strive to
keep up with the current to turn their
short sleeves back into long ones.
They found the task easy.
Long ago Queen Mary Of England
turned the trick. She had gay and