Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-10-03
Desert of North Africa In
Auences the New Silhou-
ette-Capes of the Seven
teenth Century-F roc k
Without a Waist Line.
BY ANNE RITTENHOCsE.

l. of Callot showed the effect OF
the war in the cheapness and
4 poor quality of the materials
| used, was the opinion Of woman who
knows her Paris and its clothes One
! is used to such prodigality in the
house that it was a shock to see the
velvets and furs that few years ago
Cabot would not have touched with
a forty-foot pole.
She further says: There were not
many new notes to be CLEANED from
! the fifty or so models shown. One
| found. as usual. several wearable aft
ernoon gowns in damask brocade, and
two or three velvet evening gowns.
sisters of those we have bought other
seasons. only formerly the colors were
exquisite, the materials superb. The
price for the simplest of these was
not 1000 francs. So naturally the
woman with caution and commonsense
thought twice before paying 1000 to
5000 francs for second edition OF
what she had last season. Especially
was this true il ones eye had become
accustomed to the simplicity of the
clothes worn BY the French woman
herself. or those shown by Renee.
Chanel or Vionnet. The Cabot collec-
ton struck the American as having
far too much heavy embroidery, big
flowers, and tinseled lace and metal
brocaGes, which other houses have dis
carded except for evening cloakS
The Cheruit showing was more in
teresting from every point of view; it
was better than it has been for some
time past. There were several new
notes here, and for the slight figure
that can support draped lines the
good, but of course more than 30 per
cent Of the Americans would much
prefer and would look more comfort
able in 4 Jenny gown.
Here, with Cheruit, it was such
joy to come back to the prewar quality
in everything in furs. materials and
laces. The furs were shown much
more sparipgly than in former years.
but If mink. erRine or sable was used
il was real. of the first quality.
The afternoon suits built by Cheruit
are of stiff silk velvets, in sage green
or the lovely gray beige that Cheruit
has favored: The quality and plate color
of this velvet make ii unbecoming.
white blouse it is not costume that
an American would be happy in for
bridge or 4 reception.
One of the suits costs a fortune be-
cause of the velvet. It's just the kind
OF suit the American woman could
r:ous existence of the Parisienne or
continental to make 1t even possible:
shopping in the Rue de la PaiN and
Place Eendome us not Fifth avenue.
Therefore, it is possible that Cheruit
did not hit good note in her suits for
the American buyer.
Silk damask brocade gowns made
decided impresSo1. Not one metal
brocade showed j, n. These silk bro
cades were mos u for semi-evening
gayeties. For formal evening gowns
velvet was the favorite. used alone, or
combined with zee. AS for lace, Che
ruit repeatedly INDUCES in 1t, dyed
in brilliant colors. Black crepe is
trimmed or covered with copper red,
or citron yellow lace. In design it is
the. kind used so much in black. and
which is silky and Spanish in texture.
Cheruit shows one theater Gress in
white lace the Spanish kind. with two
huge black and white -chrysanthernums
toothpicks. sticking out like porcu-
pine. Certainly a new sensation for
your dancing partner.
Much white maze its appearance.
White velvet. whites ribbed Eoplin and
white iamask brocade were built into
gowns and wraps. 1t was the pure
color, not cream. for Cheruit has al.
ways employed this. A fair amount
of shining silver laces is combined
with white. Embroidery is almost. if
not quite. eliminated at this house,
except for ctoaks.
The smartest of the coats and cloaks
are white. embroidered in black, re-
versing the idea of the Lanvin coat of
can seemed to possess. Some are COW
cred entirely with embroidery ana
with others it only goes to the hips.
Sleeves are wide and three-quarter
length, and there are no high collars.
Evening sleeves cover the top Of the
arm and are in the material of the
frock itself. AS, for example. vel
vet gown has a velvet kimona sleeve
stopping halfway between shoulder
and elbow. even shorter really. Even
ing gowns have trains of the thin
fish-tail variety.
There are many semi-evening gowns
with a high neck at back and low in
front But who would call that an
evening gown at the opera or large
dance in this country.
One very striking afternoon gown
which was quite q favorite with the
American buyers was in tango colored
MORE with wee scrap OF monkey
fur. The draping made it impossible
except for a youngster.
Now that the opening days are over
the collections stand, in order OF
merit" continues the correspondent.
Renee, Cheruit, Chenal and Jenny.
It's like in the races. that you don't
care what comes after the fourth
place.
, II think the only two houses who
showed really quite long skirts, Pre-
, met and Beer. will have to wait for
the verdict of the French woman be-
fore pressing the fashion too far.
IF the Parisienne will consent to
let her waist line down to where many
of the models are, think she will try
the long skirts. for when you combine
this long waist line with short skirts
both parts of the body appear the
same length and the effect is top
heavy. This is why the French woman
has held to the narrow, natural girdle
that was remarked everywhere at
! Deauville. However. with the one
consistent movement that is seen
everywhere, that OF draping the skirt
across the front and up at one side,
the way is fairly we'll blazed for the
| long skirt.
Another general effect is the box
| coat for the young person. or else a
cape to reach the hip. This cape may
| be in fur or wool Monkey and astra-
| khan are having their day. Every
| Squirrel is the peltry of the hour.
| 'Cheruit has gray crepe de chine
cape to the knees, lined throughout
with squirrel. with large collar OF
1.-THE same. 1t was worn over a frock
of the. same color and trimmed with
bands of squirrel.
"Callot has gown with squirrei
! founces on the skirt. This Is de-
cided novelty"
1t is not difficult to sum up the
various changes and retentions in the
| ia sllions shown by the Paris houses
which will dominate the season here