The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-10
ny ANNE RITTENHoUsp.


parades of mannequins who
show new clothes in the au-
tunn. but tho women who take In this
pleasure cannot fail TO be impressed
by the long procession OF apparently
monastic robes. These follow each
ether in close succession and give to
the imaginative mind a vivid flash of
something with which they are famil-
lar. What II is, they do not realize.
II is really fash from opera, from
the stage. from the pictures of the
Crusaders. And IL the mind will
quickly travel from the procession of
men In monastic robes who dominated
the past TO the modern pilgrimage to
Mecca II will get the correct reason
for the introduction OF such robes at
this hour.
II has been years since the worship
pers could go to their sacred spot
They have prayed with their faces
totward Mecca on their tiny carpets
and waited for war TO cease. War
over, the sacred path was free. From
every village. hamlet and city I'm
northern Africa the stupendous Jour
ney OF Mohammedans began.
Ii fred the French imagination.
Paris was more familiar with the Holy
City in Arabia than n had been before,
because the popular mind had de-
lighted In the presence OF the majestic
King of the Hejaz, who was present
at the peace conference with his
picturesque Arabian followers. He
never failed to stir the crowds into
lively interest
When the pilgrimage 20 Mecca be-
gan, to that part of Arabia which the
French knew well by this time, the
costume designers reflected the act
Northern Afrfcs for Inspiration.
The costume OF the Arabs was not
popular Curiously. II did not inspire
Parts. There was n strong tendency.
however, to go 10 Morocco for inspira-
ton q year ago. After that experiment
proved a success all OF northern Africa
was included in the search for impress
sions
Egypt, as a part OF TINT. country. Is
and has been. giving an overlapping
bushel measure of Ideas TO the French
and Americans. but the gorgeousness
of Morocco was first reflected IN cloaks
and riotous embrolderiea The Pill
grimage now gives an impression OF
subdued frocks. Tho monastic robe,
built of coarse woollen cloth. with it,
simple string girdle. was adopted by
Paris and transformed into hundreds
of gowns. which have been paraded by
mannequins for four weeks
Tho embroidery used is that OF Mo-
rocco, not Of Egypt. II is ourfously de-
signed in small sharp figurations which
more closely resemble the work Of the
American Indians and the remnants OF
arr by the vanished tribes of our New
Mexican deserts than tho flamboyani
Balkan designs.
These are the designs which we see
on Moroccan leather. They are fooled
In gold which rarely rubs Off The en-
broidery on the froclSs Is not touched
with metal and the colors are those OF
tho sun on brick, on palms, on roof
tops and temples
The sun In Morocco In unlike that OF
other countries Something IN the Dir. |
something In the slant Of the light rays
gives to everything that Is touched a |
glow that makes II different from what
the Same object would be In Europe or
America.
That peculiar red or the Moroccan
bricks is the color of the hour In
France. IL Is like rust, somewhat like |
and has been imported into France TO
DO adapted as embroidery on these sim
pic monastery frocks which are more
easily slipped on than any kind OF gown
women have worn.
Clothes That Are Quickly Adjusted
The women who like to dress after
the manner OF fire horse, slipping |
into the harness when the bell rings |
are enchanted with this new form OF
fashion They care not for It's source, |
whether n Is from priest or pagan, but |
they like II for itself. The advantages |
Il offers are not trifling.
The world Is not fun OF number OF |
women who are amlably inclined to-
ward dressing with the precision OF
Mario Antolnette. The two-hour proc
ess Is not for them. They do not care
whether every hair is adjusted. whether |
each article Of clothing In In faultless
condition nor the gown assembled |
through adding one garment to another
until perfect whole is completed.
Life IL too ardent in Its demands for /
rhs majority ef women IA he content L