Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-04-11
ny ANNE RIrTENHoUsE.

mobilization Is over. Now 1t Is sell
or perish.
There have been days on this planet,
not far distant. when life was not SO
desperate, when there were green
spots Of plenty in which one could
rest and dream for a space, when the
burden Of overhead charges did not
harass the mind and soul. when the
mere demand for production SO that
we might live was not with all of US.
waking or sleeping.
Ambition in those days prompted us
to strive in order that we might en-.
10Y luxury, but she who would loiter
had her choice.
Not so today. Idleness Is death
now. Strenuous endeavor only re-
suits in paying for the bare neces-
stiles Of life. All must work and work
like Mr.. Beebe's army ants in a cease
less, unending stream with the one
objective OF getting enough to eat
and a place to sleep.
X \ \
Clothes are uppermost in the minds
OF all women. They need them as
never before. They cannot economize
as they have done. The revolution in
the American method of living must
be faced, and women are shrewd
enough to know that the symbol of
the revolution is in their apparel She
who runs may read the signs.
Look at the variety OF coat suits
that have sprung up like gay robins
after a rain in summer. The major
ity are bright and fanciful. Only
C{hn0Ao
the strictly severe coat and skirt Of
other days.
One dominant tailor insists upon
them, for he is unceasing in his at
titude of reversing public opinion in
apparel. He claims that the artistry
of the coat suit for the American
woman lies in It's mannishness. AS
long as 1t is true to itself. he says,
1T is good and worthy. When 1t apes
the characteristics of other clothes it
loses its claim to attention. A good
argument many think.
He carves his coats and skirts this
season with sharpened scissors, fol-
lowing the clean-cut outline. The
coats cover the hips. the skirts have
a bit Of ornamentation through
stitchery or shaping to match the
work on the hips. The hem is mar
row. the length is ten inches from
the floor. The coat has a movement
Of stitchery or pockets below the
waist line, the collar hugs the neck
at the back and rolls nearly to the
waist. showing q soft, colored mus
lin blouse. The materials used are
tweed and Irish homespun, tricotine
and gabardine.
This type of coat suit. however, is
not the tendency Of the hour. As
first fashion knows it. there Is de-
cided brilliancy. 1t does not ignore
primitive colors, nor vivid waistcoats,
nor metal buttons and colored braid.
1t Is usually as flashing as the an
cient uniforms Of fighters.
The foundation may be as somber
as dark blue serge or tricotine can
make it, but this foundation is mere
ly background for gayety. So much
SO at times that the effect is theatre
cal. A cloth Of gold waistcoat reach
Ing to the hips and embroidered with
bits of glass on triangles or circles
OF scarlet velvet smacks OF Italian
opera, doesn't it, and white silk coat
over a black cloth skirt with vest
OF French blue poplin embroidered
and fastened with silver Is not de-
mure, Is it?
r II 4
These tailored suits, as they are
called, are the invention Of Paris this
spring, but they never fail to strike
a warm response from the American
whenever they are revived. There Is
a feeling, strong in many sectors Of
the country. that the sharply cut. un-
adorned coat and skirt is too re-
stricted In its use, and that 1t Is
not suitable for any but the young.
The older woman often prefers
coat suit that is as near gay frock
as the designer can make 1t; she in
tends it to serve for SOCIAL occasions.
She insists that the tweed or home
spun coat and skirt Is only mt for
business life. Therefore. this class
of woman, in mass, approve Of the
verdict Of Paris.
This type of street and house cos
tune is not the only thing that
France has sent US during the last
few weeks that will materially In
fuence and shape our dress destiny.
There is a swirling mass Of clothes,
gathered from many minds and all the
ages To define them. to catalogue
and inventory them would take weeks