davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Shortened French Skirts Win
Fancy of american Women;
Designers Say They'll Stay

After all is said and done it is
what a certain class of American
women want to wear, and can wear,
that will determine the mode for
the autumn and winter. Call them
fashionable. smart, well-dressed or
what you will--these women whose
selection counts for so much are
the women who have taste enough
to appear well dressed and money
enough to buy what they really
want.
Every boat load of clothes from
Paris comes to bear out what we
have already learned by cable of
the diversity of tendencies and in
fiuences in the Paris openings and
our own designers add somewhat
to the general confusion by intro
ducing still other tendencies and in
fuences.
Length Optional. vi
Skirt lengths have been much
discussed. But after all ii is a
simple matter. We were slow in
taking up the short French skirt
and now that we have adopted it
we like il, like it too well to give
1t up Immediately. This the dress
makers here know. So. although
they realize that the longer skirt is
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

trich for the new season comes a
hat from Marguerite-Lepnie, made
of gray silk beaver, the crown drap-
ed, the brim of moderate size on
toreador lines and curtained with
fringe Of gray ostrich whose black
tipped ends give distinct style char
acter to the model Gray, by the
way, is highly regarded as millf-
merry color; but IL must not be sup
posed that it will usurp the place of
the becoming browns, the always
elegant black, and the more-or-less
novel earth" colors.
Rusty reds are again scheduled
and the revival OF American beauty,
to which the Paris milliners have
shown marked partiality, adds an
uncompromising red to the shades
already in the public eye. 1t is said
that red is being sponsored by Paris
for the evening hat In few weeks
we shall know whether the Amerf-
can woman is prepared to indorse
a headpiece of so sanguine tone.
Suzanne Talbot and Lewis, both,
have placed the stamp of approval
on the ostrich, which this season is
used not only in the stringy plume
effects, but in countless novelty
guises, including little disks or
pads, leaf and ribbon effects, and
Gainsborough ideas. Then there is
the aigrette. which is not an
aigrette at all, but merely a con-
cession on the part of the French
designers to the plumage laws of
the United States OF course we
| have had the burnt goose aigrettes
| before now, but never have they
approached such a state of perfec-
tion as at the present time.
Jeanne Lanyin is using embroid-
cries of a simple character, which
/ accord well with the quilted hats of
| silk plush. This artistic also goes in
for felt hats studded with steel, Jet,
| or coral beads. And for more elabo-
rate occasions there are small
shapes with hanging garniture over
each ear, after the fashion intro
duced last year, which traces its
origin back to ancient Egypt.
From Maria Guy we naturally ex-
pect lace hats, reminiscent of the
Spanish mantilla, and we shall not
be disappointed. In certain in
stances the lace is draped over a
foundation of panne velvet, which,
in turn, may be discreetly embroid-
cred in dull beads or in glistening
in color, but it is likely that this
detail will prove the exception to
the general rule. The lace, is ap-
parently, carelessly thrown on the
hat, the hanging ends forming a
very flattering frame for a fair face
And, of course, to the French mill
iners, all American faces are fair.
OF cloth hats we shall see less, ex-
cept in such cases where they are
featured with sport suits. Velvet
is supreme, il We except the wide
ribbons Joined and otherwise ma
nipulated to cover entire frames.
Frequently they boast of a Jet cabo-
chon or marvelousIy beaded or
carved hat pin as the only garni-
ture; or they may be combined with
velvet brocaded ribbon, blue ground
overspread with Pompadour roses
in characteristic coloring.
Along with other ideas il is de-
veloped in off-the-face shapes, which
are like. and yet unlike, the Cor
sican contours OF last season. The
main difference. is one of side ex
Taggeration even the trimming be-
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Men to Be Ladylike;
Women Futuristic,
Is Rule in Germany
fBy United Prcss.D

Berlin. Sept. 25.-Styles for Ger
man men this fall and winter will
be very ladylike, while styles for
women will be 'futuristic."
The latest "Modeschau," wherein
Germany gets its clue as to the
fashionable in clothes, displayed
mems suits in brilliant greens. pur-
pies, pinks and so on, cut in start
ling lines, and in some cases trim
med with furs like women's clothes
One striking exhibit was a pur-
rte dress suit with gray vest. An
other ladylike affair was a bright
green wooden coat with black baby
lamb fur, frogs instead of buttons.
with a belt, and. finally, the bot
tom OF the coat was trimmed with
baby lamb fur. Other overcosts
were in pink-noisy enough to be
heard from the Brandenburger gate
to FriedriChstrassc
The lady reporter assigned to get
a line on the women's fashions re-
ported that they were almost i'm
possible of description, but that fu-
turistic would probably be the right
word
Everything runs to futurism in
Germany now. The new cigar
stores have futuristic fronts. Pho
tographs are made along futuristic
lines. Jewelry is futuristic too.
And, now the futuristic gowns. AS
near as a mere man could gather.
these gowns are of variegated hues
with splotches of other variegated
hues in triangles, wedges. squares
and so on.
There is nothing shocking about
the German mode. 1t is different
but wouldn't cause a man to break
his neck rubbering after a pretty
fraulein attired therein. Many Of
the dresses have vests and blouses.
One model is a threc-pieCe gown
combining skirt. jumper and coat.
The e~fall and winter styles also af-
feet a considerable amount Of
beading, lace and other embroid-
cry.
The Berlin tailoring houses arc
still striving hard to make Berlin
a world fashion Center-but judges
of style declare they still have a
long way to GO.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

Small hats for the tailleur, a little
larger for the afternoon dress, and
largest for evening wear is the COM
sparstive progress in millinery as
marked out by the Paris modistes.
Fabrics are mostly devoted to the
exploitation of velvet, ribbons of
every variety, and metal brocades,
whose dazzling beauty rivals the
splendor of natures own palette
The hats are gorgeous to a degree
heretofore unknown even in these
latter days of brilliant headwesr
and they are beautiful beyond ade-
quate description.
The choice in small hats seems 70
lie between the turbau or caliph-
like swathings, drawn down over
one side of the head by means of an
ostrich fancy, a silk tassel, or a
bugle ornament, and the tam shapes
about which Paris is always en-
thusiastic at the beginning of each
autumn There is still another hat
that has a soft round crown and a
small up-turned brim, and which
has special distinction because OF
the signature OF Eliane, as we'll as
because OF its adaptability to trot-
teur accompaniment or to sports
wear.
In these hats there is a use OF
cire kid, worsted work, and bead
introductions, SO perfectly allied
and balanced as to constitute a veri-
table work of art in itself. Ere
qUently the kid is dyed in cobalt
blue, magneta or brown, and it is OF
such exceedingly soft and pliable
texture that it has all the appear
ance Of exquisite satin and the es-
sential ightness of gauze when held
in the hand or placed on the head
When evolved from black waxed
kid, softly manipulated, criss-cross,
ed with gray worsted, and orna,
mented with ceramic, blues and
greens in enamelled motifs, the eff,
feet is novel and beautiful.
Indicating the proper use of os.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
RICHTER GETS SHOES
TO SUIT VARIED TASTES

Val Richter is shoe dealer with
an International stock. II miladE is
chic and Parisienne and prefers the
high heel and square toe affected by
les grandes DANES of Paris and Mad
rid, she will find them at Richter's.
If instead, she happens to be one
of our own athletic breezy Ameri-
can lasses who prefers the links or
the tennis court to the hotel lounge.
she too will find just the boot she
wants-one of those sturdy yet
graceful walking STYLES with low
heel and flexible shank, the kind that
follows the shape Of the arch.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
CBy United Press.)

New York. Sept .5.-Summer fur
sales are still waxing hot in this
little city, and instead OF furs being
placed in storage they are taken
home for immediate wear. Although
the full-length wraps and dolma ms
touch OF fur is seen upon almost
every garment worn upon the
Avenue. R-- o..
Short little coates or capes in
seal. squirrel or fitch are worn ex-
tensiyely over suits and street wool
dresses and the popular little choker
Of last tails running is back in full
force. Fitch, mole, squirrel, or stone
msrten seem the favored furs, for
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

/ bound to become part of the length
ened line, they also know that the
American woman will not accept a
sudden lengthening. The short
skirted frocks that came over from
Paris two or three years ago had to
be built down before many Ameri-
can women would wear them. Now
as frocks come over from the col
lections of the houses featuring the
extremely long skirts. it is quite
obvious that they will have to be
! shortened slightly before we will
/ like them. SO for the most part
skirts remain about where they
were, with the exception of some
of the evening gowns.
Long Sleeves Dccrccd.
Another thing the dressmakers
know here, is that the very long
sleeve is coming. but at this time
they know that the shorter sleeve
looks smarter. So a gown that four
or five months hence they might
, make with long sleeve they now
present with a sleeve terminating
at or above the elbow.
To be sure. the greater part of
autumn purchases are yet to be
made, but the clever dressmakers
and designers needs must be some
thing of a psychologist. 1t is their
business to know which way the
woman who has much money to
spend on clothes jumps before she
jumps, and they have all agreed,
apparently, that she isn't going to
jump very far. She likes the line.
the silhouette, the general tone of
her clothes well enough as they are
They are comfortable and becom-
ing. She will seek novelty more in
detail. The new things will he dis
tinguishablc from the old by the
mode of adornment-lavish en-
hroidery for one thing-rather than
because of any radical change in
line.
BlOused Backs Arc Good.
There is something quite convinc-
ing about the bloused back effect
that is seen on some of the new
suits as well as on coats of fur and
various pile fabrics. 1t is a loose
straight blouse that is held under
at a fairly low waistline. and has
the effect of minimizing breadth at
the back below the waistline, by
this blouse that comes just above
it. And anything that produces the
effect of youthfulness, slenderness
below the waist, is sure to find re-
ception in the American woman's
wardrobe. Sometimes with this
bloused back the front hangs loose,
sometimes it crosses over in a wide
shawl collar, and again there is a
belted-in front. But the suit belted
all around seems to have seen its
day. -.- .
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
New Fall Street Frocks
Forsake Tailored Lines

Street frocks for early fall are
forsaking the strictly tailored lines
that so long were the accepted
mode. Decidedly ornate are the
new styles. A new model seen here
expresses the trend. II is in brown
duvetyn combined with gold crepe.
The upper part formed of the crepe
is lavishly embroidered. in tinsel
and vari-colored silks, so that a
Persian effect-is suggested. A band
of kolinsky outlines the very short
sleeves and the vestee of golu crepe.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
CHIC MODELS IN HATS
SEEN AT O'CONNELL'S

O'Connell's, formerly StiebeFs.
the millinery shop with individ-
uality," announces the receipt of
new and exclusive hats daily.
Several chic models from the
work rooms of artists lfke Buck
Weiss, Gage and Phipps have just
been received and : few choice
models from O'Connelrs own work
rooms have attracted much atten-
tion.
Quality, Style and Service" is
the slogan of 'O'Connelrs. and their
millinery offerings. although unique,
are nevertheless reasonably priced.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Furry Touch Takes Variety :
OF Shapes Upon Garments
Viewed Along Fifth Auenue

these tiny neck chokers. Heads and
tails are used. and sometimes a bow
of airy tulie OF msline. The chokers
are worn fastened in the back or
sidefront.
The higher-priced fabric coats
are SO lsvishly trimmed with furs
that they. often resemble a fur coal
trimmed with cloth. Deep bands OF
beaver. nutris- mole, skunk or
squirrel finish the skirt Of the coat,
form deep cuffs, and the nose-high
choker collar. which, when un-
fastened drspes about the shoulders
as a shawl collar. ...
Suits use the marrow bsudings q
bit more, although collars Of solid
fur are also very good Fur seems
to harmonic with the goods rsthey
than contrast
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

ing so posed as to accentuate the
broad line. And this leads. logically,
to the hats with crowns somewhat
heightened and the brims sugges-
tive of the Directoire, with, exte nded
sides and shortened front and back.
They are dashing models, designed
apparently with direct reference to
their use with redingotes and the
like, and they have all the verve
and insouciance of the originals
worn by the Incroyables of the
French period, whence they take
their fashion cue,
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Parisians Adopt
Triangular Hat :
Worn by Tiger
CBy Universal seryfee,)

Paris, Sept 25.-The "Clemen-
ceau hat" destined to replace
the silk and opera hats for even
ing wear by men, is the latest
rage of Paris.
The hat, which is modelled
after that regularly worn by
the Tiger" is a large black
felt creation with narrow brim
and a triangular crown. 1t can
be crushed into the pocket of
an overcoat.
Since the war silk hats have
been less and less in evidence
in Paris, many men preferring
the derby or a simple straw"
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
WEDGE" COAT
TO BELATEST
Fits Closely Over Hips, With
Exaggerated Chest, Say
Fashion Seers.

Three years ago America was in
uniform and there was little op-
portunity for the exercise of per-
sonal predictions in dress. The
country had turned to the military
type of clothing as the best ex-
preston of our sympathies for
democracy.
The war successfully accom-
plished, tastes in matters of dress
were resumed. Since the signing
of the armistice the tendency has
been toward the conservative and
this winter greater expression
still of the same spirit is forocasted
by models already on display.
There will be no ultra" effects
this fall. Conservatism is to be the
keynote and the prime considera-
tion is to be clothing of quality"
Lots of Braid.
But those who desire to be Just
little bit different" need not lose
heart. The tailors have taken care
of that. There will be extreme
features, such as the puff sleeves
in the coat, the fancy waistcoat
and striped trousers and the braided
coat. Some of the coats will be
braided all around but the general
practice will be to confine the
: braiding to the collar. pocket flaps
and breast pocket welt.
1t is predicted, however, that eX-
treme features will melt, as it were,
into the background of weIl-fitting
garments, carefully tailored.
A Question of Melting.
Looking at one OF the modern
post-impressionistic canvasses we
notice paint put on with chisel
standing out in relief, in places.
Backing away from the picture and
regarding it with the perspective of
few feet the rough texture is lost
in the beauty of the whole. Even
SO will it be with the few nobby
touches we shall have this season.
They will soon lose themselves in
the broad, conservative, well-bal-
auced lines of the whole
Fashion is turning to a larger
coat. The tight-fitting corset effect
is gone. But still we are not to
have the big, boXy coat. either. Per
hsps 1t is an echo of the reaction
from the restraints of the uniform.
still vivid in the minds of all those
who wore o. DIS during the war.
But the tight-ftting coat has lett
its impress which cannot be lost in
one season or two. The American
man still wants "a coat that he
can feel"
Won't Have Draped Coat.
Some tailors have had dreams of
draped coat. Perhaps had some
daring soul come out with a big
coat he would have found the entire
clothes making fraternity behind
him. Such a move would have re-
quired the influence Of a tailor Of
sufficient leadership to make his in
fluence felt. But there was no sar-
torial Columbus and the draped coat
is still ,unrealized.
We shall have, instead. what Is
called the wedge" coat, with nat
ural shoulder, a waist normal in
length and with less suppression
than last season. The coat will fit
closely over the hips. In the front
the overlap will be narrow, the
chest exaggerated. the lapels short
and the line from the top button
to the bottom long.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
l Hats Are Gorgeous to a Degree
Unknown Before to Dame F ashton

There Are Small Turbans and Large Gains
borough Effects Fashioned From All Sorts
of Materials, the Little Ones Gay With,
Worsted and Bead Work and the Big
e. Ones of Velvet and Lace Made More
Enchanting by Plumes or Aigrettes.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
Revelations of a Wife
My Heart and Ny Husband
BY ADELE GARRISON

Allen Drake conducted us TO the
waiting taxicab in the next street.
put US in it and then entered it
himself
was surprised at this action and
1 know Lillian was. for at dinner
we had heard him comment upon
the amount Of delayed work which
was waiting for him, and we both
knew that he was not man TO
sacrifice necessary work 20 an empty
unnecessary courtesy such as escort
ing us home would be
With characteristic promptness.
Lillian put her thought into words.
You know we'd love 10 have you
come with us" she said cordially,
but we also know how very busy
YOU are, and an escort for as is real
ly a superlluous luxury"
Il am ina 1lging in the luxury. 80
on returned with q flatteTing empha-
sis on the pronoun, but / was sure
that the words were only "a mask
and that ne had some vital reason
for going back with us 20 Lillian's
apartment
was sure OF il when at Lillian s
door ne dismissed the taXicab as we
alighted. then walked up the old
fashioned steps Win Us 10 Lillian s.
door.
The evening is young yet" ne
said, addressing Lillian directly and
] am wondering If YOU would do me
"a great favor
you have only to name it," she
answered with the charming cOur-
tesy which is SO characteristic OF
her.
II have the bad combination Of
"a lot of work TO do and the makin's'
of one 81 my nervous headaches
coming on he returned smiling. L
happened 20 remember the wonder
ful black coffee YOU gave NJ" once
when we were working on a case
together. If it wouldn't inconveni-
enCe-'
"Of course" she interrupted with
ready hospitality. Come right mp.
II Bctty has gone to bed 1 will make
il myself
II won't core up otherwise" he
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
RED CROSS ISSUES
REPORT FOR NAY

The work Of winding up the war
has yet 10 be completed in South
Bend as we'll as In Washington the
May report OF the Home Service
section OF the Red Cross shows.
FOrty-twO legal papers regarding
discharge certificates. Insurance.
liberty bonds and afid2vits for
clothing were filed at the office in
the court house during the month.
One hundred and fifty-one Wis
its were made in the interests
Of ex-service men and their families
and - ex-soldiers were assisted In
converting their government insur-
ance into permanent forms
During the month 81 persons re-
ceived financial aid. II received
medical aid and one received hos
pital care at Red Cross expense.
Fourteen persons were found en-
plOyment The Office paid out ST.
53S.73 during the month OF which
S1,372.57 was returned.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04

said hastily, for Z remem Der that IL
was YOU, not Betty, who was respon-
sible for the delicious beverage that
has fingered 50 pleasingly in my
memory. l take off my hat 10 Bet
" in many things culinary, but she
cannot equal your coffee"
"Oh. you're trying TO blind my
eyes 10 some purpose OF your own,
Lillian laughed You have evident
ly fathomed the depths Of my vani-
ty But how did you ever discover
my secret belief that I make posi-
lively the best coffee in the wide,
wide world2"
she had spoken the literal truth.
Lillian-the most immune from fem-
mime foibles of any woman 1 know
lis as conceited and positive about
the merits OF her culinary cOncoc-
lions as a woman with no other no.
rizon than the kitchen walls could
possibly be.
smiled TO myself as / reflected
that Allen brakes appeal TO this
vanicty OF hers had even blinded her
ordinarily keen perceptions 90 the
rather patent fact that he was sim
ply making an excuse of the coffee.
AS a followed her into the living
room with Allen Drake walking close
behind me, wondered just what err
rand was bringing him 10 Us with
SO fiimsN an excuse.
For if / gagged Allen Drake cor
rectly, and / was reasonably sure
/ did, I was certain that no head
ache. no matter how raging, would
compel him TO ask aid Of any wOm-
an or would permit him 10 admit the
physical weakness TO her. The eN-
cuse must be only a preteNt-clever-
~ predicted upon mis- knowledge Of
Lillian's fOibles.
Now amuse each other. children"
Lillian commanded, unpinning her
nat and tossing IL carclessly upon a
couch while I get the coffee ma
chine"
When she had left the room Al
len Drake turned 10 me.
Please stick around ne said al
most boylshly I've got 10 tell Mrs.
Underwood something. and L don't
know how she'll take it,"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
4NTITUBERCULOSTS
REPORT FOR MONTH

The report of the Anti-Tubercu-
losis league for the month ending
May L. submitted by Miss Trma Coll
mer. secretary. records Il Office in
terviews, 21S outside visits and 81
letters written. Fifty-two patients re-
ported 10 the clinics and a quantity
Of literature was distributed and
supplies given out
Six entertainments were held at
Healthwin hospital during the month
given by individuals and clubs. Miss
Fern Watts has been employed by
the league and will begin her work
June 4 Miss Watts is now i'm Indian
apolis studying phases Of the work
which Will help her here.
Health films in the interest of the
Modern Health Crusade were shown
in eight schools of the city and 146
talks were given 90 stimulate the
interest of the pupils in a fly cam
paign.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
Personals

AIR. and Mrs. c. n. King. and Mr..
and Mrs w. G.. Vinson Of Dallas.
Tex, are the guests OF Mr.. and Mrs
Frank Wharton.
Mrs Louis Berger. Ills Lincoln
way w, left Thursday for Column
bur. o., where she will be the guest
of her daughter, Mrs. II. y. Aaer.
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas 3 Roberts
of Pierre :. d. are the guests OF j.
V. Meyer, 42S y. Main ST.
Miss Marian Ames. 32S y Michi-
gan St. has left for a weeks motor
trip through Wisconsin.
Mr.. and Mrs. Clarence r. Hoop
and son, George Edgar, of Pittsburg.
Pa. have returned TO their home
after spending a week with Mrs.
Hoops parents, Rev. and Mrs.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
announcements

The Woman's society Of the First
Baptist church viii meet Friday at
ternoon AT the home OF Mrs. 3. A.
Anderson. 81 y. Scott st The pro-
gram viii include a study OF the
near east and the United led by Mrs.
J. GOodenough. Mrs c. ]. Johnson
viii have charge OF the devotionals.
Members Of the Philathea class OF
Westminster Presbyterian church
viii be hostesses to members Of the
WomauS Missionary society Fri
dav evening at o'clock at the
home of Mrs. Harry Beyrer, 925
Cleveland av
The Mothers department or the
Progress club Will hold their an
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1920-06-04
Receive Notice of
Corporation Dissolution

Notice Of dissolution of the Wink
r-Grimm corporation has been re-
ceived from the secretary of state.
The dissolution was recorded in the
secretary's Office on March p. The
concern manufactured wagon bodies
and wheels in this city until recent
~ when the articles Of dissolution
were filed.