Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-10-10

the thing that presents a way out of
! the problem.
Women would prefer having the
one-piece frock, with imperfections in
| its cutting and making, than to pay
the price that might rob their nights
OF sleep.
Whoever wins out in the struggle.
the dressmaker or the amateur, the
long waist line will be Incorporated in
clothes. Valiant attempts have been
line in it's proper place, but each at
tempt has failed to get general ac-
ceptance. So the struggle appears to
be over. at least for this season.
x X X
There is a strong effort by few
individualists' to reinstate the fulfill
ties of the 1870 period. A certain
house in New York made the fashions
Of the Empress Eugene a feature of
it's exhibition. Lanvin. of Paris has
aided and abetted the attempt to
change the silhouette by introducing
the kind Of skirts worn by the en-
press Of the French. but, knowing
remaining true to her Spanish inspira-
ton. Eugene was Spanish, you know
1t is fashionable to accentuate the
long waist line. which we carelessly
call Moyen age, by using bright vel
vet applied to dark duvetyn skirt,
or a satin blouse Joined to a velvet
skirt. The latter is the more popular
form Of using the heightened waist
line with a frock that is to be worn
for festal occasions. 1t achieves,
a ceremonial air that is not in the
one-piece frock of homespun or crepe
de chine.
Hacking back to Eugene, the bell
shaped. three-quarter sleeve is ac-
credited to her in it's reincarnation,
but it also is a spark of the Spanish
movement in fashion and it also be-
longs to much of the gay costumery
of northern Africa. 1t is not as long
as it may be in the near future. 1t is
long enough to make the short bath
ing suit sleeve an old fashion.
Paris and many Of its imitators are
exploiting a kind of tailored suit
which puzzles and worries the aver
in which she has liked it. Maybe she
will like it this season after it has
been thoroughly exploited.
1t is too ornamental to please those
who feel that tailored suit for the
street must be masculine in its cut
and severity. What is known as the
mannish suit, worn with a muslin
blouse which has high collar. has
vanished.
1t is worn by women who ride. but by
gether satisfying. 1t is built by Amer
leans for Americans and fitted with
the perfection which is established.
Even France gives US the palm for
this particular kind Of street suit
One can get it by searching today.
and there are certain designers Of
power who are holding it high among
the multitudes, insisting that it is the
correct thing for our women, but the
ornamental suit gains ground. 1t has
a brilliant coat and skirt with fanci-
full blouse and sugg ests the card par
ty the afternoon reception the ornate
luncheon. Those who take part in
such functions during the winter days
may need this suit. Let them have it.
Let other Americans avoid it.
X X 4
The street suit which the best Amer
lean designers advocate has a coat
that reaches nearly to the knees, is
cut as straight as tunic. drops over
gathered to it's belt, with ornamental
pockets slashed at the sides. The ma
terials are soft and full of deep. rich
colored, but there is no embroidery or
applied pieces Of colored cloth or
galloon. The blouse is matter of per
thousands. Surely there Is no dearth
of choice.
A substantial fashion which it be-
hooves every woman to recognize Is
the combination of a one-piece frock
and coat. The need of a tailored suit
diminishes as these two garments rise
to power. They ply wider need than
the coat skirt. They suit moro va
rteties Of people. They stand for
economy.
It is not permissible to wear the
skirt Of q tailored suit without it's
coat except during undress hours, but
the capeless frock serves all occasions.
Materials may be used that give