davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1920-04-08

ion as to the French advance into
the neutral territory east ut the
Ehinc until hc has received more
Information. Administration officials
said today the question was one OF
facts between France and Germany.
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1920-04-08
FRENCH FIRE ON
HUNS IN FRANKFORT

CONTINUED FROM PAGE oNE
Yesterday What is happening now
Is the result of the reichswchr oc-
CupatiOn.'
The Morning Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1919-1927, 1920-04-08

ization to enter the Ruhr district and
putting II up To France alone to re-
fuse Germany permission To take
military measures.
The dollar rose today to the high
est point ever kuuwn--t5.35--a
the pound sterling to Clio. The
Bcigian franc even rose to i.0g. On
the other hand French francs de-
creased in all markets. both alu'd
and neutral which caused the
brokers to say: France is going 1t
alone--Hpparcntly the wrong way"
The German mark reached "a
Ccntimes. rise OF points since
last Friday.
BERLIN, April "a special SEES
sion OF the national assembly will bc
held saturday. The call for the ses-
sion was issued today following n
conference between the heads OF the
Political parties and the government
The German charge d'affaires I'm
Phris was instructed today to hand
TO the French government a note
protesting against tho French occu.
patton OF Frankfort aud other terri.
tory ON the right bank of the Rhine
The note, after referring to the
French note OF April 3. nutifying
fermanN thai the occupation had
been ordered, asserts that the oc-
cupation Of the towns mentioned i'm
the French communication or.
CURED before the note was pro.
sentcd to the German government.
We must, In the name of Justice
reason and humanity" the German
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
APRON EFFECT
FOR ECONOMY
New Season S Frocks Make
Repairing Of Worn
Places Easy.

The apron effect used on so many
of the new seasons frocks makes
1t easy to make over last years
dress, for worn or faded places can
be taken out and replaced with new
or contrasting material and the
seam concealed by outlining with
a ruffie which will give the popular
apron effect.
Where II Is necessary to put q
new length or gore in q dress to
make IL over, the side seam can also
be concealed by q RUNE sewed in up
and down the length of. the seam,
as this sort of trimming is very
smart just now with all sorts of
materials. One blue serge dress
had a ruffie on each side seam or
blue taffeta that was faced with red
taffeta.
Colored lsces are so much In
vogue at present that many q silk
frock can be freshened up or made
over with new lace vestee, guimpA.
bertha or sleeves made of white or
cream lace dyed tint to match the
dress.
As vestees promise to be Just as
popular as ever this spring. many
an old suit can be, turned into a
one-piece dress with new vest.
SILK, net, Jersey and wash materials
from the scrap bag will make at
tractive ones, and a different effect
with the same costume can be Sc
cured by using vest of different
colors and materials.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
FROCK MADE
OUTOF KIMONO
Japanese Embroidered
Crepe May Be Utilized
As Summer Garb.

Although it may seem like turn.
ing things around, kimono OF
japanese crepe in rose, blue, gray
or green, which is embroidered in
white, can, with clever planning. be
made into very original and pretty
summer frock. A smock effect
should utilize as much of the en-
broidery as possible. Short sleeves
and plain crepe to match will make
il practical to make this .'hand-
embroidered" frock.
Remnants Of drapery materials,
either left at home or In stores, are
really very attractive possibilities
for smocks, wraps and negligees.
An old style skirt with a yoke can
be recut to hobble "in the way it
should go" at the bottom, and when
worn with a jersey silk or velvet
slipover, or a crepe smock, will still
be useful and loop up-to-date.
A good way to use up odds and
ends of flowers Is to lay them
fat, with very little foliage on the
crown of a hat and veil them with
one thickness of maline. This is a
very smart effect in millinery this
season.
. An old suit should be made up-to-
date by having one of the new vests.
These are made from silk, jersey
and wash goods such as pique and
gingham.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

TOEMBROIDERY
Paris Has Patterns of
Printed Materials With
Beads to Add to Fad.

Lately fashion would have the
patterns OF printed materials such
as foulard all embroidered. 1t has
now invented a new kind of en-.
broidery. Insertions or a material
are made in another without any
thickness. They are generally
twined rings of two different shades
and are, as it were, set into the
light material of the dress without
making 1t thicker. Many cloth in
sertions are to be seen on chiffon
or velvet on satin. The patterns
are large and placed close to one
another so as to make the material
look like some new fabric. The
whole dress is often covered with
these Insertions.
Bead embroidery is quite the fad
OF the moment. Twill or satin
gowns are covered with crystal
tubes and some little sac coats
made of light silk jersey are also
adorned with bead embroidery. Like
SILK embroidery, 1t is worked up
very close together, and forms COM
pact motifs that give weight to
satin or linen dresses. The beads
sometimes match in shade with the
material which they adorn, AMI
sometimes, on the contrary, they
are Of contrasting tone-black
beads on white satin, for instance,
or light-hued beads on navy serge.
Some sac coats that, by their shape,
quite recall Turkish caftans, are
embroidered with many-colored
beads in a style that still enhances
their Eastern appearance.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

are in one piece cut.,oR at least, in
one-piece ~effsct. Many of them in
cline to narrow befed fronts and
flat, straight backs, whose line
from neck to hem is unbroken by
the appearance of a belt even of
the inconsequential String variety.
1t is the new way-a sort of dress
in front and a coat in the back.
Fulness is usually adjusted at the
sides. But fullness OF any sort Is a
thing very carefully treated by the
fashion makers. The very adjust
ment of folds, wrinkles or tucks is
the one sure guide to the status of
the designer, and either makes or
mars the style prospects of the
model. 1t may be for that reason
that dresses absolutely unbelted are
among the new things. A sort OF
modern Interpretation of the prin-
cess posed against the background
Of the Moyen Age. Such models
look like the simplest of the simple
gowns: but they are most difficult
of achievement.
Few of the dresses are wide
through the hem. In certain of the
redingote types there is a relative
suggestion of width in the founda-
tion skirt. Such tunics are usually
slashed at the sides, down the front
and back and become, in fact,
panels.
The low waistline prevails to the
exclusion, practically, Of other sorts.
IT. is not the Oriental suggestion of
last season, but the dropped line of
the cBemise robe. not novel but
eternally youthful, and therefore
eternally desirable.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
EXPERTSLIST
FALLCOLORS
Fashion Artists of New York
Predict Novelties in APP
parel Shades.

New York, Sept. 25.-This city
will simulate a big, autumn touched
forest very soon after fall garments
and hats appear.
This is the opinion offered by
fashion experts who back up their
statement by a list Of new fall
colors. everyone of which is a shade
adapted from the browns, russets.
reds or gold OF the hills and valleys
up Westchester way directly after
the first frost has been around.
One of the colors which promises
to be popular is chow" which, as
everybody knows, was designed to
match the canine species of that
name.
Darker browns are date. Havana.
cocoa and eagle. Some are almost
the dull color of oak trunks, though
the date brown is beautifed by a
scintillating lustre.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Frocks For the School Girl
Particularly Lovely This Season

dicted by broad bands of blue.
brown, yellow and red, each about
two inches wide and consisting of
chain-stitchings in heavy floss so
closely jeinAd aa to give the eject
Of wide braid. At the sides the ends
are ravelled out to simulate fringe,
which. in conjunction with the gar
ish colors. suggests inspiration from
the habiliments of the original
American. The sleeves revert to the
raglan type, and the neck continues
the slashed opening OF the front
(supplied with q make-believe
waistcoat of blue satin), and forms
a high turnover collar Of the cloth.
There IL the faIntest line OF red
leather about the dropped wsistline
which, upon examination, proves to
be an exceedingly narrow belt stud
ded all around with small buttons
of smoked pearl. There is some
thing SO Joyous in the frank exposi-
tion Of color. counterbalanced by
the duh blue of the fabric, that one
feels. instinctively, that the miss OF
sixteen and thereabout will claim
such a frock for her very own.
Somewhat more restrained in its
color outburst is a dress of brown
o1NtNsAf lne sblrI OOne IN lrdC6Tl6S
of tan silk and wool, the bodice
built with a cape appendage that
gives q suit suggestion TO the en-
semble- Then there are models with
the black blousing a little over the
low-posed girdle, the front, usually,
being cut in a straight line. We
had something of this sort last sea-
son, and it has proved decidedly
worth while as a medium for en-
phasizing youthful lines; therefore,
its repetition in the new models.
Many plated effects are noted,
ranging all the way from the ac-
Gordon variety to the two-inch
depth or more. There are apron
tunics and panels and among the
smsrtest are little redingote ideas
very similar to- those designed for
women who can no longer claim
even a remote figure relationship
to sweet sixteen. In fact, this may
be said of many Of the dress fash
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Many Changes Are Noted
In Styles Of the One-P Piece Dress
Iunics Have Given Way to
. Panels and Bright Colors
:, Are Popular.

There Is a subtle difference in the
style phases of the little dresses"
tor daytime appearance that distin-
guishes them from their immediate
predecessors, and which, at first
glance, may not be apparent to the
SUPERFICIAL observer. The same SIM
plicity of line marks their shaping
the same girlish attributes of neck
and sleeve details are again intro
duced, and discreet dashes of color
onee more vivify the sober blue of
trieotine or the sombre hues of
brown, black or green in duvetyns,
velyets or satins.
= Nevertheless, to be quite up to
the minute in our one-piece frocks,
we shall find il necessary to be of
with the dress Of last season and to
eontentedly indulge ourselves in
enc Of the new models
: Upon close observation we note
many changes in the autumn dress
pne is that the erstwhile plaits Of
Universal patronage have been su-
eerseded by odd little pieces of.
sloth, fluted after the manner Of the
Egyptian garment, and appended to
The slim little frock, here, there, and
Everywhere in the most unexpected
manner, but with a careful eye to
balance and proportion, making for
an artistic and wearable ensemble.
Or il one is wearied of plaits,
French, ancient Egyptian, or plain
American, attached, detched. fly
ing or quiescent, then there is the
ribbon or braid understudy-usua
introduced across the hip line in
several rows, and thence going its
own sweet way to the skirt hem,
where each ribbon strand or braid
piece, is pointed and weighted with
an ornamental ball button or braid
device. Always there is a sense of
activity in the wearing of such
frocks-swinging -panels, swaying
ribbons, floating braid. giving an
fndescribab appearance of dash
and 20, eninently characteristic of
the verve ahd independence of the
latterday American women. d.
Never has color been so lavishly
applied to dresses whose basic prin-
ciple is one of service, 1t has been
infused by way of the embroiderers s
needle, the ribbon girdle, the vestee,
the hem facings-anywhere that the
Fertile fancy Of the designer has
suggested.
AC 4AAAAGANt VI the
season is shown in the new modes,
principally in the sleeve lengths
and the neck outlines. without
question, the short sleeve will pre-
vail for early autumn. 1t is very
girlish for one thing, and accOrds
so thoroughly with the collarless
neck and the abbreviated skirt that
its absolute withdrawal as a style
feature would tend to mar the beau
~ OF the frOck as a whole Of
course, there is the sleeve of three
quarter length, which few of US
consider pretty, except, perhaps, in
= suit jacket. Speaking in a style
sense, there seems no halfway halt
for the sleeve. Either it must be
short or it must be long. From
Paris comes word that several of
the leading Couturieres have signi-
fed their intention of stressinE the
sleeve of wrist length by way Of
marked departure from the modes
Of the passing season. And un-
doubtedly the American woman will
gladly endorse such length a little
later on.
Practically all the cloth frocks
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Many Plated Effects Are
Seen And Every Hue
Is Represented.

For the girl in her teens Dame
Fashion has devised exceedingly at
tractive street and party dresses for
the new season As a whole, the
dresses and costumes seem exactly
suited to the figure types of the
younger generation, being straight
OF line graceful in their freedom
from superfuous width, and colorful
as the first autumn leaf, comming-
ing the waning green Of summer
with the richer nuances of yellow
and red, indicative of the passing of
one season and the approach of an
other.
The practical frocks have receiv-
ed first consideration-those that
VIII be worn before the donning of
the fur-trimmed suit or the topping
or the frock with the fur Jacket
DARK blue is the favorite color, and
the slip-over models, innocent of
buttons or other fastening devices,
the style most insistently offered.
Tricotine Is the fabric in general
evidence wherever the new things
are displayed, varied by models Of
duvetyn, peachbloom and velveteen
Youth yearns for color, and know
ing this, the powers that regulate
such matters have seen to IL that
there shall be no lack Of lively hues
Interpreted among the navy blues
and the browns. And by way Of es-
tablishing neutral ground, there are
one-piece dresses in tans and in
grays, the latter, however, rather
inclined to be dressy and realizing
their greatest degree Of beauty in
sort duvetyns and in sstins
BY way Of illustrating the new
scheme OF trimming, mention must
be made OF a model of dark blue
peachbloom cloth. whose demure
background is startlingly contra
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
BRILLIANT DISPLAY
OFFERED AEKAFKA'S

Lustrous satins. smart tricotines,
graceful georgettes and nets, and
other dainty frocks trimmed in
shimmering beads, handmade flow
ers and gold embroideries are on
display at kafka's this week
II you want subtle style, if you
would enhance your personality
with the added charm Of an in
dividual frock. you will find just
your type OF dress or suit at
ksfka's - the shop for young
folks"
They're for girls,-and women,
too,-youth is sewn into every
seam Of them. youth with its grace,
its lightness of heart, its exquisite
ness.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Whisk to Sprinkle Clothes.

When sprinkling clothes # will
save time and work If round
is used.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26

ions designed especially for IN.
miss, or perhaps IL is the other way
round and the fashions for the
elders are really based on those in
tended primarily for the juniorr.
Little dancing frocks are pretty
creations OF satin, chiffon, metallic
gauzes, embroidered nets, and bead
ed tulles. lovely in their rainbow
colorings and exquisite in their de-
tails Of broad sashes, lace houncea
and general air OF girlish flufipess.
There is no one color preference, the
vivid tones, consorting with the
pastel, white and black, each have
a worthwhile place among the offer
ings. While the Spanish effects are
not so greatly emphasized as last
season, there are, nevertheless, GER
tain picturesque dresses Of the
dance persuasion, made with slight
ly distended hoop and fitted bodice.
that are bound to make an appeal 20
the romanticslly inclined. provided
the figure lines are slim almost 20
a point OF attenuation.
Separate coats are rather wide
through the hem, and declare their
la"-''v to the belted expressions Of
the Dast two or three seasons The
mate are Of comfortable weirh<.
without however, any sense of
oulkihess. The colors duplicate
those OI the little .'trotteur," with
the eAsNption OF blues, Of which
there Is less employment in coat
composition. Collars are high, Of
the muller type, and very often are
Of fur.
There are many suit models for
the young girl, among them the box
the bloused-peplum, the semi-ntted
tailor effects, the redingote and
composite types Incorporating fes-
lures OF the most successful models
Of the last season or two. This
means that the little Eton has not
been neglected, although in its pres
ent phase il is associated with the
bloused Jacket which once upon a
time we denominated Russian" but
which in its later editions is called
by any whimsical name suggested
by the fancy Of the designers.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
FAMILY'S PRESTIGE
UPHELD IN SHOE SHOP

DR.. Peter Kahler. Of New York
City, whose grandfather madc shoes
for Abraham Lincoln, has just
opened a shop in Thirteenth street,
and offers the same sturdy quality
that characterized the firms product
fifty years ago.
DR.. Peter Kahler and Sons have
been in the shoe business for more
than half a century, and specialize in
sensible, comfortable lasts for both
men and women.
The orthopaedic shape, flexible up
per and square toe are typical of the
kahler shoe. For those who prefer
style combined with comfort this
dependable shop has several attrac-
tive models. Any Kahler shoe up
per is guaranteed to outlast sew
eral pairs of soles.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
D. c. MODISTE RECEIVES
NEW LACE MODELS

Ida Walters has just received
some superb picture models in black
Chantilly lace at her new shop, 1915
G street.
Models from Gage. Fiske. Vogue
and other modistes make her fan hat
display one OF the most noteworthy
in town.
One irresistible model is a turbs n
effect in dUvetyne trimmed with
hand embroidered flowers. 1t is in
the new chow shade.
An unusual b, met is a German
helmet effect in Lyons velvet with
black and gold bead trimmings. An
other striking model is a tam tur-
ban in black psnne velvet trimmed
in iridescent beads
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Kings Palace Displays
New Partisan Creations

Kings Palace, which startled
Washington a few weeks ago with
the $2,500 galaxy OF chic Partisan
models, has just received some in
dividual creations in millinery.
Many are in the new chow and
pheasant shades suggestive of the
autumn woods.
One OF the daintiest effects among
the unusual values now on. display
in the Seventh street shop is
black velvet hat with MORE silk
pheasant facing. A natty strip of
ostrich feather across the upturned
front completes the Napoleonic en-
semble.
Another is an elaborate pressed
beaver picture model with festoons
OF ostrich. Equally charming is a
piquant velvet tam with worsted
pom pom in the brilliant Chinese
jade shade.
The Washington herald., 1920-09-26
Silk Flowers on CoIlar,.

The most becoming collars shown
in New York are trimmed with
fetching silk flowers. The flowers
are used at the opening OF the neck.
These unusual collars cannot fail u
give a distinctive touch TO any
gown.
The Washington times., 1920-12-12

~
TOR are not these Djer>Kiss sets full of the
l very charm Of the Christmas Holiday-la saison
tres joyeuse? Do they not breathe that very spirit
of discernment which selects the appropriate
gift the thoughtful gift for friend or for the we'll
loved?
Yes. These baquets de Nosl-in combinations
SO pleasingly varied-reAect the charm Of right
gving-and bring, too, the very grace of Paris to
the toilette and the dressing table.
Grit may be-you wish simpler gift? Then
whether you choose the Extract, Face Powder,
Toilet Water or one of the reste, you will find
even in single Specialize de Dje>KSs gift SO
quite acceptable, so quite correct.
A little whisper in the ear of Monsieur Remember
-DerKis Holiday so loved by Madame.
A little hint to Madame Madanosele: your
intimate fnend-DerKis Holiday single
Specialize. And for Monsieur you wish to select
Der>Kss Vegetale or Soap or Tale"
Ask that good clerk your shop show you these
Holiday sets-more attractive than ever beforegs fedto
the full with French charm.
EXTRACT FACE POWDER TOILET WATER vEcETAlB
These three apfdaGss-CoMpAC7S L1psEcx
u.hp imported
t.: -
~ H0JkA
The Washington times., 1920-12-12

A little whisper in the ear Of Monsieur: Remember
-Djer~Kiss Holiday sets are so loved by Madame
by MadenoSele."
A little hint to Madame, Mademoiselle: For your
intimate friend-Djer~Kiss Holiday sets single
Specialize. And for Monsieur you may wish to select
Der~Kss Vegetale or Soap or Tale"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1920-07-06
VALE BRYAN!

GAN FRANCISCO appears to have
Obeen Waterloo for Mr.. Bryan. And
as a prophet of might, abandoned at
last by those who once were glad tC
follow him and left dcsolatc. dsap-
pointed and yet undismayed amid the
debris OF all his hopes, the Commoner
is no small or insignificant figure
1t has been fashionable to snccr at
him. He could weep in public and
peoples and parties will never wholly
trust any man who does that. He
brought little of elemental wisdom to
his party. He will take little of sound
philosophy away from it. But Bryan
has many of the great virtues Of char
acter that are native to original Amer
lea and the present Middle West IIc
has been courageous and consistent
even when he was wrong. He thinks
IN simple terms. His mind has only
one side. 1t has not the various facets
that can reflect the various truths Of
various world. Honest ho has been
even when he believed that sentiment
and wisdom are one.
Any man who stands up and fights
for an idea until he is battered down in
his tracks deserves a word If praise in
passing.
This is that word.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1920-07-06

and his intellectual ingenuity is equal
TO the task of explaining why the modern
democracy is what it is. He is Of presi-
Dental size-girth would be a better
word. His waist measure is about equal
to that Of Grover Cleveland. He is
smooth shaven after the manner Of
Washington, and he has qualified him
self for a strenuous campaign by sea
son or two on the lecture circuit after
the manner of Bryan. He can face an
audience without blushing.
In addition, ticket like that of Cobb
and Lardner would be a recognition of
the writing folk who have been neglected
by the politicians in the past. We have
had lawyers and college professors and
soldiers and surveyors and mere poli-
ticians as presidents, but we have never
had successful humorist in the White
House. The political obtuseness of the
convention, which failed to see the op-
portunity. must be regretted by all
Democrats who are hoping to keep their
party in power.