The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1920-09-30
The DireCtOire
Note in Goats

took so well that 1t has been copied
In heavier materials for autumn. The
coats may be of cloth, lined with heavy
silk crepe, and the dresses of the same
material as the coat lining. 1t is a
perfect costume for afternoon wear.
Deep Color Tones.
Very charming dresses in deep color
tones are being made up in Directoire
style. Among the new models shown
by one French house are dark brown
and rose-cOlored cloths made in a cross
between the Directoire and the mod
ern French dreSSmakers Interpretation
OF that period. One such model is de-
yeloped in brown cloth with high Dr.
rectoire frill of ecru batiste.
a third Interpretation of the Dlrec-
toire is seen in three-piece suits de-
velOped in blue serge, with beautiful
embroideries executed in metal nail
beads of iridescent colors. The skirts
of these dresses have q one-Side drap-
cry. with a slashed opening at the
side where the drapery falls. The
coat shows the cutaway front and the
long sides and back so characteristic
of the DirectOire period. There is con-
siderable dignity in these suits and
they are also of type very becoming
to the average American figure. A
strong point in favor of the success of
the Directoire is the fact that almost
all women like the simplicity of line
which characterizes ii.
a coat with a novel vest having a
DirectOire collar is worked out in a
lightweight serge, with accordion plait-
ing set on ut low hipline. This IL
illustrates one of the methods of OBJ
tanning the long-waisted, effect that
has taken such a firm hold on all au-
tumn coats. 1t appears in suit coats
as we'll as separate wraps. Reboux
hat of the Breton sailor type is worn
with the coat. Here the trimming.
which takes the form of fiat silk roses.
is placed beneath the brim Just over
the right ear.
Lined With Brocaded Silk.
The feature of a popular form of
mantle coat is the cape back, which
is lined with beautiful brocaded
silk.
One of Premet's cape nantes is de-
veloped in lightweight gray homespun.
The cape is very much shorter and cut
to a point at the center back. The
original model was made with the CAPE
unlined.
The craze for plating as q trimming
has set its mark on the autumn coats.
There are very smart coats on which
the trimming consists of inserted
rows and of high-plaited collars of the
cloth. Sometimes vest of embossed
leather is added Then the high col.
lar is of the leather.
Tobacco brown serge and soft IN.
dressed leather in soft, harmonizinc
shades of brown make q smart coat
One model shows the plated trimming.
it is one of the most popular coats In
Paris. Soft brown wool is chosen for
it, with organ-plaited bands of the ma.
terial sewn fiat. A smart-lookinp
French woman who recently appeared
in this coat wore with it simple hat
of an unusual shade. 1t was a cloche.
pointed at the sides and trimmed only
with a band and bow of ribbon. She
also wore gauntlet gloves scalloped at
the edge.
Ribbon Finds New Gayety.
Throughout all our current STYLES
ribbons continue to display their bright
shades. Hats are trimmed with rib.
bons in the form of the most exag.
gerated sort Of loops and bows. 1t be-
gan with the plain ribbons, but these
/ soon proved too tame for the taste of
the present-day woman, so milliners
began to offer hats decked with the
gayest sort of ribbons with their sur.
faces embroidered in many bright col.
ors as well as those of intricate weave
displaying vari-colored surfaces.
small Turkish cap almost com.
pletely covered by dropping loops of
dark ribbon covered with bright
pink flower design has a border of
myrtle green. A high-collared vest OF
the same ribbon is made to be worn
with the hat. The vogue for embroid.
ering hats. is continued. A grape de-
sign is wrought out In soft green
| shades.
Modistes have prepared many things
/ to offer their customers this autumn.
but no one can say just what will be
accepted. There are a great many
ciose-ftting hats with the trimming
dropping from the top of the crown.
An exaggerated military turban is
a popular model with all milliners.
On these they place the trimming to
stand directly up in the front like q
cockade, or ostrich plumes may cross
the top Of the crown and droop al.
most over the eyes at the front.