The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-12-12

carding them almost entirely when wars
are done.
Tracing Influence of War
on the Garb of the Ancients
The ancient spartans as an urge to mat
rimony, We're accustomed to see to it that
the robes Of maidenhood were not too full,
although they became later tightly
wadded and sewed when the matr
monial markets had been made. When
the wild alarms of war sound
ed prim and grave grew the Spar
tan garb. When the tide of conquest
swept over Greece, and Rome became a CEN
trc of foreign wars, and the plains echoed
with the feet of marching legions. the tri-
umph along the Appia Via was followed by
professions and dances and bacchanals in
which lovely woman Joined in clinging dra-
peries and bewtching smiles.
Let any one wander at will through the
Metropolitan Museum of Art and see how on
tablet and in painting and in fgurine is told
the story of sack and pilage and of rum
bling catapults. with it's sequel Of flowing
and diaphanous robes.
There never time when woman was
more entitled to adopt all the frivolties of
garb as is the present era in this world. The
women Of the motor corps. the medical ma
jors among them with their Sam Browne
belts. the ambulance drivers, the car window
washers in their overalls the farmerettes in
their bifurcated denims all bear witness 10
the fact that the average woman was some
thing OF a sight when the war was on the
tapis The costume of nurses, the plain
tailormades of days of stress and storm,
the strict economies which are enforced by
short commons in war. all had the effect of
causing women to discard the bright hues
and 10 forget the enticements of civilized
dress
H. hat .,
greatest weapon which civilization gave to
woman was drapery Very old and very
wise is the gifted French writer. and yet IN
this era he may find that often the lack Of
it makes woman seem all the more formid-
able. Thus on the golf links and on the
tennis court we find that the curse Of the
skirt is being banned and that many a drive
is made by women clad, not in foppy skirts,
but in tidy knickers.
In a recent number Of the American Golfer
"a woman writer declares openly in favor OF
the mannish garb for all women who engage
i'm the sports OF the world OF the out OF doors
The attractive groupings which are made OF
women in such attire reveal that the inno-
walton is sedate and staid, as compared with
the costumes which are worn by all classes
in the close OF the second decade Of the TWEEN
ticth century.
Upward Trend of the Skirt
Dating From the Armishce
Before the European War skirts were
growing tight and thin and had begun their
upward trend with the signing OF the
armistce the hem Of the neither garment OF
womanxind began the upward climb so that
now II is not unusual to sec a gllttering ball
dress well toward the knees and as sheer
az gossamer The other day a titled woman
was married In attire so scant that the
guests were shocked and the newspapers
commented upon the spectacle in bold head
lines
The silk stockings so thin that they show
every vein and every muscular nuance. and
bodces cut so low that they seem 10 he little
else than clinging straps. are all signs Of
these times Of revulson from tho austerites
Of war. II IS wcu 10 .denounce and scold
perhaps. but as well sSk to curb cosmic