The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-04-18

the cans of paint and go to it, advises Leslie V. Spencer in an article in Motor Life Magazine.
 First thing to do Is to move the car into such position that you'll get all the light possible. Most private garages only have one or two windows, and these are usually dirty. Clean 'em first thing sos to get all the light you can. Then ar range the extension lamp so that it will reach to any part of the body. It's inn portant to be able to see just what yoHre doing and then you'll get a much smoother finish
 TAKE EXTREME CASE
 We'll take the most extreme case to start with. Suppose the car is in pretty bad shape so far as the finish goes. It is full of cracks and wrinkles, and the color is faded in some places Wouldn't do much good to try to apply a coat or two of finishing varnish over the groundwork and expect to have a decent looking job when you get through.
 We'll that means that all the old finish must be removed and an entire new finish put on 'Tisn't as bad a proposition as it might sound, but it requires careful work. You can get some paint remover from any paint store and apply it with a brush just as you would expect to do. It's a strong acid combination that makes short work of the old paint. Smear the whole side of the car at once with it. Let it stand about ten minutes and then start to scrape off the blistered material Use a wide, flat tool similar to a putty knife. The old paint will peel off down to the metal and before long the entire side of the body will be smooth and free of paint.
 But there's one thing to remember when using this paint remover. Be absolutely sure you get every bit of it off be&re applying any new paint, because If there is any left on the metal it will attack the new paint just as it did the old. Wasn it all O: thoroughly with gasoline and alcohol before going any further.
 Sandpaper the whole thing carefully with a fine grade of sandpaper-No. % Is the best for the purpose. Sc that the surface is smooth and that there are no ridges nor Jumps of paint anywhere. The secret of good finish is to make eacn step as smooth as you can before pro ceeding to slap on more materlal
 PUT ON METAL PRIMER
 Next put on a metal primer. Be sure it's a metal primer, because wood prim- CT wouldn't do on a metal surface.
 The paint fellow will sell you brush specially adapted to applying the primer. Do the work with even strokes, covering the surface smoothly. It's best to use horizontal strokes rather than vertical. You can get better sweep ana coNeA more space in the same time.
 Don't use cheap brushes for the worK. It's false economy. Get good brushes that hang onto their hairs. You can do much of painting job with brush that's constantly dropping hairs for you to dig out of the painted surface.
 It is well to let that primer dry ana then sand it lightly with that fine grae% of sandpaper I mentioned. Go over che surface carefully and putty all holes and rough places that can't be smoothed with the rubbing.
 Now you're ready for the rough stuff treatment Rough stuff is well-known material to body painters. Any paint shop will be able to supply it, and enough is needed to go over the car several times. This rough stuff treatment has great deal to do with the final finish you get on the body. It is we'll to put on five coats of rough stuff, and be-