Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1920-01-08


was so fortunate as to pick up ticket
just surrendered on a big English
liner which had just brought over
1000 Chinese coolies to Halifax, and
which was to pick up another load on
her return. Even in first cabin there
Is still evidence that the steamer is
primarily a transport; little luxurieS
like berth lights have not yet been
replaced. Nor did we have tourists
aboard
Three-quarters of the first cabin de-
serted us at Plymouth late one after
noon; we found ourselves in Cher
bOurg harbOr early the next morning.
The customs examination was cour-
teous and lenient; tobacco was all
they inquired about. The state rail-
ways gave us special train-twO
frSt-claSS carriages Corridor cOacheS),
a diner, and a baggage car--and we
made the run in to Paris at 40 miles
an hour. The luncheon, at II francs,
was excellent, but we had only sac
charine pellets for sugar, as here in
quality, is not yet white-and, to my
thinking, all the better for it. 1t was
a pleasure. as we rushed through the
smiling Norman countryside, to see
herd after herd of fat cattle with
here and there a woman milking into
a great brass pail shaped like top.
The fields were well cultivated, and
the orchards full of apples piled up
for the cider mill-"fine Salvaging,"
as an eX-sOldier remarked.
I am glad to say that talks with
good French friends here in Paris
have convinced me that our American
soldiers salvaging tendencies were
condOned, and that the French people,
as a whole, feel just as cordial and
grateful to the Americans as when
they came. There is evidence of our
presence everywhere; many of the
engines we passed on the railway still
bore ~. S. A." on the tenders.
Seeking Paris Quarters.
1t was our misfortune to reach
Paris, already jam full, the week of
the first automobile show in six years.
I must have tackled ten hotels before
l finally found room.
There is no heat, but I do have cleo
tric light. For this luxury I pay II
francs, about $3.50 a day. 1t is so
with all prices here. The good hotels
serve luncheons and dinners at IL
francs up. Nevertheless, in the midst
of all complaints, it is surprising how
cheaply an American who knows
Paris, or doesn't mind learning, can
live here. l dined the other night IN
a restaurant by the Louvre where for
4 francs so | got my choice of hors
d'Oeuvre or soup, two choices out of
entrees, roasts and vegetables, cheese,
dessert, and a glass of beer or half
bottle of wine. Of course it is crowd
ed, the service a little slow, and moth
ing but French spoken; but every
thing was excellent and we'll cooked;
and including the fee to the waiter 1t
cost me only about 90 cents.
One remarkable thing, I never saw
Paris so nearly exclusively French.
The tourist element is almost altOgeth
err absent; one sees only occasional
British or American or Polish or Ital-
ian or other uniforms, instead of
whole platoons of them, as during the
war. The women are almost all
French; and, as one walks along the
boulevards, one rarely hears any Ian
guage but French. And to one who
knows Paris of old. and loves it, it
was never more charming; its people
proud with victory, chastened with
suffering, uncertain but courageous
for the future.