davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07
\ Pertinent QUERY

Now, what is the dominant idea
IN shortening the skirts over thin
silk stockings at the beginning of
winter Is it political or purely so
cAal? II does not seem to be the
spiritual ideal striving vigorously to
appear ut any rate. # is not the
spiYit}a ideal Of the NidAlo West,
though it may be thc medieval
spiritual ideal, for. again turning 10
Mr.. Parsons, "Mcdievalism may
pcrhaN oc iil,oaaQ. ar way. 20 that
period I'm youth before the develop
mont Of reason has supplanted the
spontaneous display OF The emo
tons
That definition seems to MT The
needs Of the preson, ease squarely in
the center, and a little further along
She spiritual ideal is added as fol
lows.
"Creek or classic civilization
sought the eNaltation of material
through @sthctje on artistic treat
mcnt and formulated its spiritual and
social existence to this end 1t was
the business Of medicNalsm 70 dis
place this ideal for ono Of its own
which melted eXaltatioN OF the spirit
through neglect Of The material. or
modification of the flesh, in the be
lief that with The attainment of
spiritual ecstasy materials would
lend themselves to the attempt 10
express it and that spiritual emo
tionalism would find a ready .ssthetic
reaction.
This part OF the definition also
fits admirably. Neglec. of material
is prime factor in the fashion of
today. Mhlle for the morliticat.on
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07

tocracy: Clothed in the splendor Of
these gorgeous stufs and wearing
such exquisite jcweliy. the great
ladies Of Venice appeared with the
majesty and grace OF 50 MANY
queens BY the light OF the candies
III the palace halls. by the light of
the sun. on the promenade at San
Marco or Santo Stefano. these gol-
den ornaments, these gems, the vel
low tatfetas, the velvets of crimson.
green, pale blue, the silks Of car.
dinal red "all alessandrina." the
damasks figured in gold or silver.
turquoise blue. olive green. carna-
ton rose, the murrey coored bro
cade with gold and crimson patterns,
the silvery camlets with purple
stripes, the watered silks shot with
green and purple. the pure white or
apis lazuN or qoMegranate dyes
oi the cloth, furnished a pageant Of
eo'or such as Venice alone could dis
play.
The hoopsl.iro first became fash
'onabie III France in 1880. II dis
appeared in the seventeenth cen-
TAry' but reappeared in the eigh-
;ecnth and nineteenth centuries in
various forms. The most fashion,
able fabric for women's gowns IL
France in the sixteenth century wa
velvet
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07

than the women of any Furopcs,
country"
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07


Of the flesh there can be no better
means Of attainment than exposing
it to the icy blasts of winter, The
degree of spiritual ecstasy animat-
ing the votary Of fashion must be a
matter of individual study, but this
is not difficult and is often d pleas
ing task. And the dictum that emo
tionaism would find d ready reac-
ton in many Of fashions haunts
needs no argument 10 support it.
A Cycles Completion
Leaving aside for the moment,
however, the discussion as to whether
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07

padded at the top. Shoes were en-
broidered in diamonds and might be
compared to jewel cases. Long, mar
row shoes with the seam at The heel
studded with emcralds were called
in trade "come apd see"
With the passing Of the Terror
and the dawn Of the Directoirc, in
1895, reaction to the styles Of
Louis XV seemed for a short time
possibility. so great was the re-
lief from the strain Of the preced-
ing six years.
The classic dress of the end OF the
eighteenth century is described by
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07
lhc Renaissance Moved On

- the seventeenth century tie
Renaissance had movel on 10 tae
Haroque seried. .trt aAa givea placs
to eNtraVagane ostentation. A period
Of aboundlng prosperity-protiteer
ing, 1t would be called to-day-led
to lavish and vulgar display never
ecualed since until motion pictures
We're invented. Ii is said Of Ga
5rielle d'Estraes, mistress OF Henry
~, that her dress at court was so
loaded With gold, silver ana pre-
cious stones that it was impossible
for her to move about in full dress
and almost impossible for her to
stand up. Parsons says:
"lhe passion for low cut bodices
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07
IN THE pcriod Of Loujs XVI ortrnyaqnucf in material
Sf9f end ornomo at0tjon reached its cAnar

fitted tight, and every gentleman
wore huge gold chain around his
Nook
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07
American / a>Ilions

bears. Toward the end OF the cen.
tury Count Rochambeaa said: Tn
wives Of American merchants and
bankers were clad 10 the top Of
French fashions" Another er.tic j,
quoted By Parsqv~ as lyne "a
Mr.. Gritiin's house "a d'rner I saw
seven or eight women al 4rossed IN
great hats. plumes. e.. pas with
pain that remarked muce # pre-.
tension in some - the e.: one
acted the gidd.-. rivaci.us. rother
the woman Of sentiments Tt- last
had many pruderies ard ermaces.
Two among trem mad their bosom.
very naked. Wa ,4a3a,ized al
this irdooency among republicans"
|ozepi,;ne's ~~as
The Empire wa Tie 6rs5 Of tn
nineteenth ronturs s-r'e One o.
the robes Of rhe Empire Josephin-
is described as follow "Shc wore
gown Of India ,atslin. one Of those
muslins chat ore might call tissue
OF air, which. however, notwita-
standing the incness Of its texture
was embroidered with de~i n ia
relief Of sprinkling Of small star
the center of which V'as filled Wit
necdlepoint lace. sic gown va.
highnecked and shaped like a rcd.r-
cote; all around it was magnif-
cent piece Of point d'Ancietcrr
two hands wide a.d s.irred ON full.
this was also on tac neck and fron.
OF the gown; at regular interval
were knots OF blue satin ribbon, So
fresh, of 50 pure = hue. turquoise
blue, thai nothing so charming wa
ever seen; the underskirt Wa satin
of the same buc a ihc ribbons
on her head the Empress wore
bonnet, the trimming of which Wa
point 'Angleterrc of The same o.
sign. but finer yet than tha' on the
gown, and it vas gracefully posed
and separated by tufts Of blue
ribbon"
About 1870, say q recorder Of
fashions, the balloon skirt gave
way to close-titting bag and tubs .
laths." IL 1873 feminine dress be
came extremely complicated Fir
teen or twenty fcunces we're put on
one skirt. This is credited TO a re-
action against the enforced psrs.-
mony Of lS7l372.
The Age of independence
Here says Parsons, we ma
authorities universally agreed tns'
the age Of independent dress, esr'
ore following her own taste. hegS'
in earnest. Now if va mat cut D.
came the principal ,bag. mater'al'
and trimmings being erafed accora-
ing 70 tho weai,a of .a.a Of tre
wearer lnus Wa t.oli-he'
the order in which ve. wai
mas its advan.age .hose Who
sense Of ha.aor is sti.l aise-
And thA; brings o. - ,.e prese''
and 50 bac% to our p-neipai qie-'
ton: Are the faeh.. f to-tsg
return TO snodleF4! esg IL. i.
refresh - mc.aor and Cart
our visions By a glance al what IL
Parsons ays of medieval clothes
Medieval art found its fulleA aAo
freest expression in = saeles.ast.'''
field. Such Costumes rs sere esse''
tial 70 IN ritual q -ae chlE''
claimed me greatest share 4 .
tention. This ecclesiastica. do
nance Influenced the KIND OF ne
terials produced, determined larger
the colors used and dictated not c!p
the design Of the pattern. but ~
style of the garment"
Somehow that does aot see1'
good description q c.o,1ss '-e''
Can it bo tha. ! went asrrsy g.. .',
initial aigumenr? And yet IL scenes
the clearess logic when ! wrote ii.
must go back and study IL and s~
where, II as all, WAS wrong
New-York tribune., 1920-11-07
1NNE OF AUSTRIA
II (abore). First half Of
the Seventeenth century

Mt THE LEFT. This pov-
j trait Of the Duchess Of
Orleans illustrates CT cL-
treme style of hoirdressinq
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Public Celebration of
 League Organization
sy Associated Press

Paris, January 9O-A public celebration of the organization of the League of Ma tiobs was held today in the Sorbonne, presided over by President Poincare, Paul Deschanel, the presdent- elect, Leon Bourgeose. Albert Thomas, former Pre- mier Ribot and Andre Honnorat, minister of public instruction, occupied places of honor.
 Accounting the development of the idea carried out by the league, MT. Bourgeoise, who was the French member of the com riisson which drafted the League of Ma tions covenant. said:
 President Wilson, by his messages and his personal efforts, offered the means of realizing this ideal in a great inter national convention. Whatever defects there may be in it. the past of April 2S, 1919, has sealed between the free peoples solemn agreement for the union of all for the safety and independence of all.
 M. Bourgeoise. in his address, made a reference to the first meeting of the league on January 16 where, he said, there were found missing only the repre- sentatives of the United States of America, flor the adherence of which in the near future we all are waiting and hoping
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Coleman Wins Cup

Anniston, January 30.-tSpeciai)-- The finals for the Golfers Magazine cup between Alfred Coleman and w. Ii. Weatherly was played at the Coun- try Club links Thursday afternoon and resulted in a victory for Mir. Coleman by up and to play. The match was hotly contested and at the turn Mir. Coleman was only i up. but he shot the second nine in 42. which was too much for his opponent
 MT. Coleman started out by winnin g the first hole. The second was halved, then Weatherly sank a putt on the third for a win. The fourth was halved but on the fifth Weatherly took the lead by winning it. His lead was short lived. however, as Coleman came strong the next three holes and won them all. putting him up. Weatherly won the ninth with 5, leaving him 1 down at the turn. Cole man made it up at the tenth: the next two were halved. then Coleman made it up by getting nice 3 on the thirteenth. Weatherly won the fourteenth with a nice 4 but lost the next two and the match.
 MT. Coleman will retain possession of the cup for February. The qualify ing round for the February cup opens Saturday and as great deal of in- terest is being taken in these events large number of entries are ex- Dected
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Jerry Gwin Is ConUinced
 Age-Herald Widely Read

in the office of the board of revenue. Now MT. Gwin was in his office all yes terday morning, doing a little work and everything. But it turned out that he put in most of his time answering the tele- phone. For numerous men who had read the want ad in The Ags-Herald called his phone and asked concerning the po- sition
 Finally, in desperation, he telephoned The Age-Herald and requested that the tisement today, as he desired to transact some important business and he did not care to put in all the day answering the telephone.
 "Ill admit that people read the classi- fled advertisements in The Age-Herald,' '' said Mir Gwin, "so it won't be necessary to get my telephone mixed up with any other advertisement to convince me-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
SECOND WEEK OF
 SOCIALIST TRIAL
 ENDED LAST NIGHT
By Associated Press

Albany, N T., January S0.-The sec ond week of the trial of the five sus- pended socialist assemblymen charged with disloyalty ended tonight with counsel for the assembly judiciary com mittee still unable to state when they would be able to start presentation of their case.
 This morning was consumed with a general exposition of socialism and it's history since 1884, but this afternoon the prosecution read into the record volumes of documentary evidence bear ing on the anti-war programme of the socialist party and the attitude of the socialist delegation in the assembly to- ward war legislation.
 Committee counsel also went into the socialist doctrine that political action should be backed with industrial &C., tion and obtained from Algernon Lee of New York, treasurer of the socialist state committee, an admission that un- der certain conditions socialists com sidered a general strike d justifiable political weapon.
 The Judiciary committee today dis played noticeable efforts to speed up proceedings.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
ID AVOID
 THE FL J" First Of All, Make Sure Your Blood Is Red and Rich-in Fighting Trim SAFETY IN VIGOROUS
 BLOOD If You're Listless and De- pressed Don't Delay Min ute-Get a Good Tonic

If you get the influenza. a doctor at once-but why get it? Isn't it worth while, instead, to take every precaution now, against getting it2
 Probably the best and first thing to do is to make sure you are in good physical condition. During epidemic, almost wherever you go you exposed to in fluenza. As long you are really well. the red corpuscles of your blood fight off and defeat disease germs. But when you are tired and run down, when you feel all right except that you haven't much energy or enthusiasm, your blood is tired out too, and you are an easy victim.
 Pepto- Mangan has become famous builder of rich. vigorous blood. It helps you to avoid illness. Or. it helps you re- cover if you realized your poor physical condition too late.
 Physicians have been recommending Pepto- Mangan for years in cases of anemia tbioodlessness). It is reliable. effective, and has a record of over twenty-five years success Take no chances with run-down condition. Get Pepto-M -Mangan today. It is good health insurance
 Pepto- Mangan is sold in liquid and tablet form There is no difference in medical value Take either kind you prefer. But be sure you get the genuine Pepto- Mangan -"Gude's" The full name should be on the package,-Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31

If anybody wants to know about the efficacy of the classified advertisements in The Age-Herald all he has to do is to ask Jerry Gwin4
 Not that the president of the board of revenue has been making any tests on his own initiative, but the knowledge that people read the classified columns of The Ase-Herald was thrust upon him yes terday.
 It all came about through a typo graphical error in want ad in The Age- Herald yesterday morning. A combined watchman and timekeeper was needed by an advertiser who asked that applicants telephone to Main S59s Through one of those errors which occasionally creep in, the telephone number was enormously listed at Main S5sS.
 It so happens that s5Ss is the telephor
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
CARRANzA IS NOW MEXICAN DICTATOR,
 DECLARES REPORT
Declares He Will Not Trans fer Government to Presi- dent Chosen in Com
 ing Elections
By Associated Press

san Antonio, January 30.-peclaring he will not transfer the government of Mexico to the presidential candi- date chosen by the people at the elec- tion to be held next July, President Carranza has proclaimed himself dic- tator of Mexico, according to dis patch from Mexico City received to- night by a Mexican newspaper pub lished here.
 Carranza also has declared IA states, whose governors have united in call for convention to select a civilian candidate for the presidency, to be according to this dispatch. Mexican refugees here interpret this to mean the fourteen states will not be con- sidered in the national government and therefore would have no voice in the selection of a President. Previous dispatches from Mexico City have said the governors of the fourteen states probably would favor Ignacio Bonillas for President
 Coincident with this reported move on Carranza's part Francisco Villa has established headquarters a Satevo, in the state of Chihuahua. and the Carranza government has ordered con- centration of federal troops in that state at Chihuahua City, according to Ia dispatch from Chihuahua City to the same Mexican newspaper.
 This is considered significant by Mexican refugees here, who express the belief Gen Alvarado Obregon and Villa are about to unite their forces for a revolution against the Carranza government. In dispatches from Mexi- co City to Mexican newspapers here about two weeks ago Obregon was re- ported to have revolted
 The fourteen states whose governors have united in an effort to elect a civilian President are: Chihuahua Durango, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon Tam aulipas, Vera Cruz, Puebla, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Colima, Jalisco Sonora, Mich oacan and Aguas Calientes.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
SLIGHT DECRSASE IN
 INFLUENZA IS SHOWN
By Associated Pres,

Chicago, January 30-New cases of in- fluenza for the last twenty-four hours numbered 1015, as against 1,149 yesterday, while pneumonia claimed 340 patients compared with 445 for the previous day. Deaths from influenza totaled 112 and from pneumonia so
 Restrictions placed on funerals during last winters epidemic were reimposed to- night by Health Commissioner Robertson A ban is placed on public funerals and on wakes, and persons attending funerals are limited to ten.
 pr, Robertson said the favora ble con dtion of the epidemic this year could largely be attributed to the absence of saloons and the inability of the general public to obtain intoxicants.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
ADJUSTMENTS
LITTLE SHEPHERD OF KINGDOM COME AT THE JEFFERSON

"The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come
 has at length come to the stage, and the admirable adaptation of the John Fox, Jr., novel, by Sidney Toer, has won ap-
 probation of discriminating critics in every large city where it has been shown.
 The play will be at the Jefferson theatre today only, matinee and night and it is regretted that this theatre had such a busy week that it could only arrange for the two performances. The original cast and production is carried by the company, including George Simpson, Dorothy Dunn, Fay Brennan, James Ken nedy and Ralph Macdonald, as well as a
 number of other actors of ability, select ed for their fitness for their respective
 roles. The production is beautiful and picturesque
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Tot Shot and Killed Rv Assoeiafed press

Macon Ga, January 30.-Gladys F. Hollingsworth, 1, was shot and killed in front of her fathers store here this afternoon. The sheriff reported the child was killed by a .22 calibre bull let fired from a parlor rifle in the hands of Robert Davis, z, a cousin of the dead child. Members of the fam fly informed the authorities they had been under the impression the gun was not loaded. Coroner Wages said to- night he was convinced the killing was accidental and did not think an inquest necessary.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
RICH-CREAMY
 SHAM AMPOO
Such Is O. Ban" Liquid Shampoo. Makes Your Hair Glowing, Radiantly
 Beautiful

Q-Ban pronounced ku-Banl Liquid Shampoo is not merely a liquid soap like most other shampoos but has a base of cocoanut oil which fathers freely dries easily and leaves your hair fluffy. soft and radiant ly beautiful Get a bottle of Q-Ban Liquid Shampoo from any druggist and give it a trial It will make your hair glow and gleam; make your hair hold its depths of subtle undertones of rich color-hair whose ends glistens with life, health and beauty. O. Ban Liquid Shampoo is hair cleaner and brightener. It gives delightful lather. reg ular pillows of foam which make Q-Ban I,iouid Shampoo the ideal hair wash. It won't change the color of your hair. yet it brings out the hidden beauty of any color of your hair. Try bottle today and you will vote it the best you ever tried. Mail orders, 50 cents.
 Arnold Masberg Drug Co.,, 4th Ave and goth St, and 4th Ave. and 18th St., Bir- mingham. Ala. Mail orders filled for 50c.- Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
"PAL o'MINE.-MAJEsTIC

Pal O Mine, which is next weeks at- traction at the Majestic theatre, is one of the cleverest of the many good crook plays. It is companion piece to Turn to the Right and compares most favor ably with this play, which was such a decided success in every city that it was shown in.
 Two crooks, of the highest order of roguery. decide to rob a bank in a tank town. The hank is robbed and each crook thinks that his pal did the robbing. But a girls smile had reformed the crooks and they both had decided to go straight Who robbed the bank. and whether the marriage of one of the crooks to the hanker's daughter is legal, forms a most interesting complication
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Southern Cattlemen's
 Convention Closed
By Assoeiatsd Press

Montgomery, January S0.-With the auction this afternoon of 42 head of purebred Hereford cattle which brought in the aggregate $1S,O4O. the conven- tion of the Southern Cattlemen's Asso citation came to close During the morning visiting dele gates were carried on an automobile tour of the country and were enter tained later at the aviation repair shop, where flyers stationed there put on an aeial circus.
 The highest price paid in the sale today was $500 for Gay Princess I, and went to J. R. Smith. Jr., of Fayette- vile, Tenn. A number of the animals sold at prices ranging from $500 to S700
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
FUNERAL SERVICES OF
 EMORY M. HOWELL

Funeral services for Emory NJ. Now ell will be conducted from the residence of his mother-in-law, Mrs. s. L. Wade 2725 Hanover Circle, this morning at 10 o'clock, followed by interment in Elm wood. The Rev. P. D. Wells pastor of the Highlands Avenue Methodist Church, will offieiate. Active pallbear- CTS will be pr. A. P. McFerring C. F. Torbert pr. J. E. Frazier. A. w. Bra zleton, pr. F. McCrummer and MT. V. V. Florence
 Relatives of the deceased living here have been painfully aggrieved at the several erroneous statements published in the accounts of Mir. NoweI's death and purported marriage. and stated last night they were without the slightest foundation in fact and entirely uncalled for.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Eighteen New Pythians

Anniston, January 30.-(Special.)- Eighteen new applications for the ranks of Knighthood were acted upon at the reguar meeting of Anniston lodge No. 91, Knights of Pythias. Thursday night, and the lodge expects a harvest of limitations during the next few weeks
 A feature of the meeting to be held next Thursday night will be the ad. ministration of three of the degrees of the order on Major Robert F.. Scott commanding officer at Camp McClel- Ian; Capt. Mead M. Goodwyn. the fi- nance officer at the reservation, and Dorsey V. Jones. labor foreman at the camp.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Open '. C. /. Hospital To
 Some Outside Patients
Needs of Employees Do Not Require Entire Hospal-Op portunity Is Given Public to Secure Advantage of Facilities of Institution-No Curta
 ment of Employees Privileges

portunity of taking advantage of the fa- cilities at the Central hospital It is announced in this connection that irrespective of the number of patients in the hospital that employees and the mem bers of their families have first call upon the facilities at the hospital and this rule will not in any measure be suspended or abrogated. 1t is taken that as presently operated seventy-five outside patients may be accommodated, but when the full or ganization is arranged for a number quite in excess of this will find conTeniences al this institution.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Law Rooks Arrive

Annston, January S0.-(Special.) )-Copies of the state code for the use of the jus tices of the peace in the different beats in Calhoun county have been receivtd by Judge Thomas w. Coleman, Jr., and are ready for distribution among the officers of the county, according to an announce ment this week by the probate judge The officials of the county have been request ed to make application at the probate of fee for their law books.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-01-31
Revival Meeting Begins

series of revival meetings will be started at the Leighton Avenue Sap tist Church Sunday morning, the pas- tor. Rev. Charles c. Dawson, and Rev Leon NJ. Latimer to conduct the serv- ices. The congregation of the Leighton avenue church is making extensive plans for their campaign and already much interest has been aroused.