Middletown transcript., 1920-05-15

design is the only way nrou"u
idea that sleeves shall not end nm inc.
or so below the arm pits. And spec'a'
designs these days are confined ~
the few. The rest Of us must accel',
the dictates Of fashion as they stahu
and decide to glory In them.
After all, the short sleeve Is mucn
like the collarless gown wnen u
comes to applying It to the various
types Of feminine beauty or no"-
beauty. Women will insist that they
cannot wear the style. that 1t Is NOT
becoming to their type, and finally
when they do stop struggling and &C.
cept the fashion as It stands. they nnd
that they really look extremely we'll
they surprise themselves. And tnen'
when they come to analyze the situ-
alton, they discover that they nave
been refusing to accept the change
merely because It is new and tnat
they never really have given 1t A
chance to prove whether 1t IS becom'
ing. This happens as often as drastic
changes are introduced In fashion. and
time and again women have worn the
thing that they announced to begin
with they could never countenance. tt
bids fair to be the case Of the sleeve.
and those who are looking toward
that shining vista. economy Of mate
rial, will welcome the shorter length.
A French designer has announced
emphatically that the long waist Is
the line especially adapted to the
American figure. Some one Is heard
to murmur: "What is this American
figure that the French love so to pratt
tie about?" Well. It IS not rs vet the
French figure, which Is allowed to be
as plump as It pleases. wherever 1t
pleases. We still lean to straight
lines in this country. and the figure
which Is not built along these lines
may be corseted to the state where
It seems to be. 1t is for such figure
that the French artist Of renOwn des-
ignates the long-waisted models. And
you have only to observe them on
straight, more or less fiat figures to
see how really beautifully they are
adapted to the contour. Cal1ot is do
ing the lcng-waisted dress to perfec-
tion. She has sent over many love-
ly models. The skirts are full or
plated, and while often they are
made with tighter underskirts. many
of them leave the fullness of the
skirt to be the only line below the
dropped waist.
Lonq-Waist Model. =
For instance. there Is one model
from this renowned house made OF
gray satin, with a full skirt falling
over a tighter skirt Of black satin.
The straight, long, fiat bodice Is en-
broidered in gray in an all-over pat
tern Of large design, has wide cuffs o.
black satin on the very much abbre-
waited sleeves. Another, design from
the same house is made for dinner
wear. It has cream satin draped over
black satin, making sort Of cascade
skirt. and the rather low and pointed
neckline is edged with wide beaded
bands Of gold and pearl-beaded en-
broidery. A long-waisted model for
afternoon wear has a Chinese brocade
waist and lower panel Of the skirt
made over a foundation Of black
satin. Then there Is fuller skirt Of
navy blae serge. draped from low
waistline and allowed to hang over
with an uneven hem. one side being
very much longer than the other and
pointed where the draping meets.
Paquin has made some successful
long-waisted models, as have Made
leine ct Madeleine. Jenny, and Lam
vim. Most Of the other designers also
have done things with long-waisted
effects. but these are the ones which
accent the idea especially for the
American women whose figures they
say they have studied with a real
idea Of providing gowns peculiarly
suitable for them.