The Jasper news., 1920-09-23
The DirectOire
Note in Goats

" HseeNcicSs. lnlS type OF costume
took 90 well that Il has been copied
IN heavier materials for autumn. The
coats mny be Of cloth, lined with heavy
silk crepe, and the dresses OF the same
material as the coat lining. II is a
perfect costume for afternoon wear.
Deep Color Tonsa
Very charming dresses in deep color
tones are being made up In DIrectoIre
style. Among the new models shown
BY one French house are dark brown
and rose-coIored cloths made IN cross
between the Dlrectolre and the mod
ern French ,dressmakers Interpretation
Of that period. One such model h de-
veloped In brown cloth with high Di-
rectoire frill Of ecru batlste.
third Interpretation of the DIrec-
toire Is seen In three-piece suits de-
veloped In blue serge, with beautiful
enlbroideries executed In metal nail
beads Of iridescent colors. The skirts
Of these dresses have a one-sIde drap-
cry. with sIashed opening at the
side where the drapery falls. The
coat shows the cutaway front and the
long sides and back 80 characteristic
of the Directoire period. There Is con-
siderable dignity In these suits and
they are also OF type very becoming
to the average American figure. A
strong point In favor Of the success Of
the Directoire ie the fact that almost
all women like the simplicity Of line
which characterlzea II.
A coat with q novel vest having a
Directoire collar Il worked out In q
lightweight serge, with accordion plaIt-
Ing set on at tow hiplIne. This IL
illustrates one Of the methods Of OBJ
tanning the long-waIsted effect that
has taken such a Arm hold on all au-
tumn coats. It appears in suit coats
as well as separate wraps. A Reboux
hat OF the Breton sailor type is worn
with the coat. Here the trimming,
which takes the form of fat silk rosea,
is placed beneath the brim Just over
the right ear.
Lined With Broeaded SILK.
The feature Of a popular form OF
mantle coat Is the cape back, which
is lined with beautiful brocaded
elk.
One Of Premet's cape nantes Is de-
veloped in lightweight gray homeSpun.
The cape is very much shorter and cut
to point at the center back. The
original model was made with the cape
unlined. .ss 0iSaS
The craze for plating as a trimming
has set Its mark on the autumn coats,
There are very smart coats on which
the trimming consists Of inserted
plated bands surrounding the skirt in
rows and Of high-plalted coIiars of the
cloth. Sometimes q vest OF embossed
leather Is added. Then the hign cur
lar is of the leather. ASr
'TvDacco brown serge and soft un-
dressed leather In soft, harmonizinR
shades OF brown make q smart coat
One model shows the plated trimming.
II ls one Of the most popular coats IN
Paris. Soft brown wool Is chosen for
It. with organ-plaited bands Of the ma
teriai sewn fat smart-lookinR
French woman who recently appeared
IN this coat wore with II a simple hat
Of an unusual Shade. Il was a cloche.
pointed at the sides and trimmed only
with band and bow Of ribbon. She
also wore gauntlet gloves scalloped at
the edge.
Ribbon Finds New cayety.
Throughout all our current styles
ribbons continue to display their bright
shades. Hats are trimmed with rib
bons In the form Of the most exaR.
gerated sort Of loops and bows. II be-
gan with the plain ribbons, but these
soon proved too tame for the taste Of
the present-day woman. no mIlliners
began TO offer hats decked with the
gayest sort OF ribbons with tileIr sur
faces embroidered In many bright COL
crx as well as those Of intricate weave
displaying vari-colored surfaces.
A small Turkish cap almost COM
pletely covered by dropping loops Of
dark ribbon covered with a bright
pink flower design has a border OF
myrtle green. A high-coIlared vest OF
the same ribbon Is made to be worn
with the hat. The vogue for embroid-
ering hats is continued. A grape de-
sign Is wrought out in soft green
shades.
Modistes have prepared many things
to offer their customers this autumn.
but no one can say just what will be
accepted. There are a great many
hats with the trimming
dropping from the top Of the crown.
An exaggerated military turban is
n V,onufor modal 18th .n ...ott--. |