Graham guardian., 1920-12-31

Ecrases, situated at the point where
the boulevard crosses at right angles
the Rue and Faubourg Montmartre.
the Rue de Richelieu and the Rue
DrouOt, there extends a sort of neu.
trail zone-the Boulevard Montmartre
which one might almost define as
the vestibule. to the Boulevard des
Italiens. It was here, in the Passage
des Panoramas, that in 1917, the ex-
pertinent Of lighting Paris by gas was
first attempted. The Boulevard Mont
martre has lost most of it's former
vogue; many Of its famous cafes,
which formed part of the life of the
city, no longer exist. Brebant has
disappeared; the Cafe de Madrid
which played an important part In tho
political history Of the second en-
pire, and during the war was frequent
ed by the most famous "aces" Of
French aviatlon--such as Fonck and
Nungesser when on leave--is becom-
ing transformed.
The Cafe de Mulhouse has been re-
placed by the Musee Grevin, Of wax
work celebrity. The Theater des Vari-
etes, with the columns Of its old-fash-
ioned portico, is souvenir of the past,
as we'll as Is the Passage Verdeau Of
which many people would surely for.
get the existence were they not forci-
bly, reminded Of it when showers
oblige them to seek refuge In that
haunt once so fashionable.
The Rue de Richelieu marks the
beginning of the true boulevard, which
privileged region spans the Place de
l'Opera to the Madeleine church. On
the crowded sidewalks, rather OBJ
structed by the terraces Of innumer-
able cafes, one meets "all kinds and
conditions OF men" in that most demo-
cratic of all conglomerations-and
that most banal--a Partisan crowd.
Another Famed Thoroughfare.
The Boulevard des Italiens was the
center of the brilliant, scandalous life
of the late empire and early '30s.
There used to assemble at Tortoni's
at the MaiSon d'Or-now transformed
into post office-at the Cafe de
Paris, those French dandies who
brought such laborious care to the
imitation of the extravagances of their
English models; at the corner of the
Rue Laffitte was situated the Cafe
Hardig, the meeting place Of the agi-
tators at the fall Of the assignats and
which is celebrated as having been
the first Partisan cafe where luncheons
were served "a la fourchette," that Is,
where meat was served. The Cafe
Anglais on the opposite side OF the
boulevard was the most fashionable
restaurant of the second empire. II
was demolished recently, and Paris
sighed at the disappearance of anoth-
er Of its fayorite haunts. The Pa
vilion de, Hanovre, facing the Vaude-
vile theater now shelters the shop of
a prosperous silversmith; but 1t Is
Of noble origin, having formerly be-
longed to the duke of Richelieu, who
had, so runs the legend, built it with
the product Of the golden and silver
laurels he obtained by hook or by
crook during the Hanoverian war.
Hence the nickname which has ever
since remained attached to the beau
tiful and luxurious building.
The Boulevard des Capucines, which
starts from the Vaudeville and spans
the Place de r0pera, is always ex.
tremely animated with its numerous
hotels, clubs and shops. 1t belongs in
some sort to history, for It was from
the garden Of the Capucines (Which
has disappeared long since) that the
first pistol shot which transformed
the riot of 1S4S into q regular revo-
luton was fired.
Professions and corteges Of all
kinds, both civil and military, peace.
flIl, threatening or triumphant, have
through the centuries passed down
the boulevards, stamping history into |
the very footway they followed. But
surely the old avenues never wit |
messed a more solemn or symbolical |
scene than the parade Of the allied |
troops, which, on the 14th Of July. |
preceded by their glorious, tattered
banners, marched down the boule- |
Yards toward the Place de la, Re