davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
ITALIANS CELEBRATE.
Observe Anniversary Of Feast Of Our
La dy Of Mt. Carmel.

The seventh anniversary of the Feast
of Our Blessed Lady, Maria of Carmel is
being marked by appropriate ceremonies
by the Wilmington Italians in st. Eliza
beth's Church. Oak and Broome streets,
today. Rev. Dan Choppo oflicialted at
solemn high mass at 10 o'clock and will
preach at 4.30.
During the day two bands travelled
about the city in special trolley cars.
At 3 o'clock the annual procession will
be held. and 6 band concerts will begin,
and from $50 to IL there will be display
of fireworks, as general wind-up of the
affair. The committee in charge consists
of Michele di Guglielmo, president;
Flaviano Fabietto, secretary, and Domen-
leo Bernardo, treasurer.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
SHORTAGE OF CRABS.

Special Correspondence of Every Evening
Chestertown, Md, July 16.-Crabs
were never known to be as scarce as they
are at present IN the waters of this sec
ton. Not crab has been caught up to
the present time off Chester bridge or in
the river off Chestertown, and COM
paratively few are being caught at Rock
Hall, the great Grabbing centre of the
county. Crabbers are receiving $40 a
barrel for hard crabs, peelers are bringing
81 .25 dozen. and soft crabs 81 50.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
Police ANNOYED by Mosquitoes.

The house officers at police headquart-
err are being greatly annoyed by the
and other bugs which swarm IN
10 the station II night, attracted by the
light Screens have been ordered for some
tisne, but have not yet been installed.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16

In hot weather one pities tenement
dwellers. But he also pities the stout
capitalist who walks one pace behind his
front levation-Baltimor Sun.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
RESORTS.
BETTERTON. MD.
HOTEL. RICHIE

A modern hotss. -omnnandins nne nHfFr
yia~ Shesapeake hay. Bathing fishing ~
AMI geashoro, Ideal for rest and 'ecrestlan.
Southern cooking. Drcbestra. W@esl-cnd rate.
saturday supper 70 sunday early supper.
hnMARD TuENER prnurict..r.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
ATLANTIC CITY. ~. o.

HOTEL BOSCOBEI gen'''eiy AZ.
baths, elevator, erceiient tabie House -
furnished. Bathing. Booklet Phofge ~
a, ~. MhRfDN.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
WILDWOOD. n. ].

HOTEL DAYTON Gspseity 80
with private hath: bot and orid rInnlrv
water. ocean view moderate fat@s tshia
simply the best music. nookiata Anfo
meets trains. ALEX McM URRAY. Owaar
and Proprietor
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
hOTEL CHESAPEAKF

Dircrby on the teach Our tAbit supplied
With fresh vegetables and aen foods from
farms ara bay Pure spriDg water
MK4. ~ NJ OWENS
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-07-16
OCEAN CRY! N. ..
CAPE MANI
MARINE VILLA

0l7 Columbia Avenue, Caps May =
shady porches. block from besrh. srfsfn-
cratic environment unogcplinr cufsire t.sf.ia
supplied from own farm. danrinv autss
train service k2O I'D weaklY
The New York herald., 1920-01-04
law HOGEBOOMy N0ID ON A]AQ QN6zzZZzzZzzE =

touches of organdie Then there are all the
soft weaves of domestic silks that look so well
for semi-dress occasions and for sports
The important thing, however about these
dresses is the manner in which they carry the
impression of increased width and not an inn
preston really so much as an actual increase
in the quantity of material used in the skirts
The means whereby the width is attained are
many and varied, but like the dresses described
in former article on clothes for southern
wear, the apron is the most prominent feature
1t may be so dmnuitive that it is hardly
larger than bib and it may he large enough
to form the skirt front or back but IL is sure
to be an apron
rose pink tarreta afternoon frock is typical
OF many others and in very charming way
The silk is the color of frosty raspberry ice
with girdle OF ribbon Of lavender which tones
in so well that one is hardly aware there is any
difference OF color except that the effect is
delicious The bouffant skirt stands out at the
sides as result OF the cordngs set in a deep
band about the hips. This in the overskirt for
there is Va slightly narrower underskirt be-
Meath
rhe short sleeves are finished with bit of
the embroidered organdie and the front OF the
bodice has a vest of the orgapdie ending in a
round tab-ke apron below the grdle
An afternoon gown that the very young girl
will just dote on is Of black Chantlly lace
trimmed with soft French blue ribbons that
should bring il within "mamas approval"
for they give the dress exactly the air OF
youth in spite OF the matrons black lace OF
which ii is made. At the hips the lace is
wired so that it st1nds out properly. and over
this in the front apron OF the lace falls so
that 1t partially obscures the ribbon which
follows the curved line of the apron with bow
here and there
The sleeves are short. with deep ruffle OF
the Chantilly. and the bodice is nothing much
but q wide ruffe of IL about the neck and down
the sides of the front
Ribbon as every one knows is q very i'm
portant item in the list of trimmings this sea-
son. and If not watched carefully will be pt
to get bit tiresome. one very new way to
use ,his form Of embellishments is seen on
dress of orange colored chiffon. Father a pale
shade or orange as orange color goes but by
means faded looking. The ribbon was ap-
piled like the crimped edge Of an expert cater
ers pie II was simply crmped or fluted and
laid about the neck and sleeves Of the gown
ard also in strips down the sides Of the skirt
The ribbon il IN the same shade as the chiffon
A white crepe silk frock is trimmed with
gros grain also i'm white in another and attrac-
tive manner Beginning with the skirt which
is in every model the most important point
at the present time. find interesting exten-
sions on the skirt at the sides. which are fur
ther supported in the effort to increase the
width by the apron OF the material covering
an. nf
with loops OF the ribbon extended at The sides
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

drapcry OF pale blue tulle falls over the psIe
blue taffeta
Carrying the line of the bodice down on the
skirt is rather youthful and pleasing way OF
lending a little variety to the evening gown
Furthermore. it supplies a convenient oppor-
tunty to do something unusual to make the
hips bit more bouffant
An Illustration of this is seen in frock for
tho debutante modelled from that of a Russian
slave of a past age. The bodice is held about
the shoulders with several strings of beads
and is OF pleated tulle in turquoise blue and
this color is carried down over the hips by
puffings of the tulle set on the flesh coored
skirt. The skirt is gathered at the hip line
and the puffings are held at regular intervals
by of tiny flowers which run Srom the
waistline to the hips AS there is apt to be
some metal trimming on every evening" gown
there is a wide band of silver cloth about the
waist and the flowers are carried up over the
girdle
At the sign of the Poll Parrot is not as it's
name might denote, a tea room for those with
time to frivo away Far from it. it is one Of
the busiest places in town, for it belongs to
Nine. Polly, the hairdresser. and the huge
poll parrot which always swings before her
door is her distinctive sign
The woman who has time on her hands for
tea and all that sort of thing might not find
Nine. Polly's establishment to her liking, for
it is planned especially for the busy woman
and the girl who cannot afford the higher
priced establishments.
No one ever has an appointment with Nine.
ment is not necessary. Mime. Polly has plenty
of expert helpers in attendance and tho min
ute the helper Is through with shampoo and
marcel Nine. Polly has dressed the Numbered
tresses in becoming manner in less than no
time.
time finds this greatly to her advantage for
were an appointment necessary she would
have to go without her hairdressing and do
her shampoo at home. This is hardly as satis-
factory, for Nine. Polly does ones hair in
manner that one never could do for oneself
With almost as much despatch one may have
ones face massaged and made beautiful or her
nails mancurod and still keep an important
engagement.
Indeed. this is busy place, and all the time
the hustle and hustle is going on the huge
parrot sign swings lazily outside the door next
the New Amsterdam Theatre, supreme in the
knowledge that a beautiful woman may easily
alter the course Of human events and that
sisn has great deal 10 DO with IA.
The New York herald., 1920-01-04
Declares Signing of the Armistice
Saved 100000 Americans

giving ground losing tremendously in men and
counts for the long
The day America stepped in the Germans
knew they were beaten. because the handicap
was overcome. and had the armistce not been
signed II would have taken the Allies less than
six months to be in Berlin. 1t might have cost
of this million General Pershing's army. which
on November l5 was in the front Of battle
would have furnished from 100000 to 800 600 men
Think Of it-500oco or GoO.Oo0 American lives
lost SIMPLY to take Metz and Strasbourg
Coblenz and Mainz. the four big forts and 20
should not have been accepted may think IL
over and remember that the three men who
thought an armistice was the best were Foch
Pershing and Haig-and they knew
No political interference appeared in the sign
ing Of the armistice because Foch. who had
been victim or political ntrigue-iust as
took supreme command that politicians must
keep their hands off
Manufacturers OF guns, shells tanks airships
and OF all other army and navy supplies would
have liked few years more of this war TO
further increase their fat bank accounts. They
had nothing to lose nobody in the tight be-
cause all their relatives and friends were
safely hidden in the offices and factory
trenches far in the rear.
But the fighting man. the man at the front
had enough OF IL for time and welcomed
the armstcc with q deep sigh of relief and
thanks to the Lord. GASTON d'fNRAY.
New York city, Dec is. 1919
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

Strkingly clean cut some frocks OF candy
striped taffeta, combined with plain white.
These like the ones just described. are fresh
in color and likely to please the most fastidious
seeker for something new and ultra smart
The candy striped affairs chemise dresses.
possibly ono piece dresses would be more
accurate description of the manner of cut for
the side extensions and the closely held girdle
of the newer frocks changes the old order OF
things.
striped green and white frock has the
chcmise cut to well below the hips and here
the skirt is attached. mostly with buttons Cut
perfectly straight. the skirt section is bound
with white silk at the top and stitched down
across the front and the back, leaving consid-
cradle extra material at the hips. This is but
toned to the extended portion of the bodice
with large pearl buttons. At the bottom the
entire skirt is turned up and caught to a lining
to give the harem hem
red and white striped dress has skirt also
buttoned to the hips, but the bottom instead
Of turning up is peateed In at the sides that
The New York herald., 1920-01-04
Paris Dressmakers Unable to Meet Big Demand

placed very close together and attached just
overblouse. forming an apron which ties in
the back. 1t is a curious cut and most ef-
fectve. Renee makes this model in satin and
chiffon taffetas, which is to be spring leader
She wears it herself in black satin. and have
also seen it in tho new jersey that is to he
spring feature
The firm Of Madeleine & Madeleine is
also showing an entirely new collection. Soon
after the Americans left in September they
sent out invitations to their French customers
for separate collection. It predicted in
the early days Of their show that this might
be necessary as their models were so entirely
American and so different from the dresses
that were being worn by the fashionable
French women. This second collection proved
to be as extremely French the other was
American which shows that the two Made
leines are as versatile they are artistic.
The new dressmakers who continue to spring
up like mushrooms overnight are moving into
more extensive quarters and are making every
effort to help those of longer standing to meet
the extraordinary demand There not
many complaints to be heard about the new
little dressmakers copying the big creators.
The copying is going just the same as ever,
but both classes busy that they have
time to squabble over copies
| visited the Maison Peron. new house
which opened in the rue de la Paix last
son. and found it, too, doing splendid busi-
ness on only few simple models Many Of
these new houses have the appearance of being
opened merely for a pastimc to play with
dressmakng, but they arc doing business
everywhere so they need better reason for
existing
The Poiret collection which is being shown
in the Autumn Salon to be creating
something of a sensation, much to the disgust
Of the painters. who declare that exhibition
Of paintings is place to display womens
dresses but the Autumn Salon is modern in
its taste. with the cubsts and all the other
modern schools trying to gain recognition.
that the ordinary observer has way of tell
ing dress from picture. so after all it makes
little difference what is displayed. ] heard
one woman say that she had been standing
before what she supposed to be picture for
an hours and she had not been able to figure
out whether the subject woman or a
house so she had given it up as bad job and
had decided to look at Poret's models and
was meeting with the same luck. / heard an
other woman say that she did not understand
why Poiret did not paint his dresses on canvas
instead of having to employ many hands
in these troublesome times to sew them on
figures. for. you know she continued "the
Poiret models only to he looked at. and
the Autumn Salon is excellent place for
them"
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

dlS season the debutantc and the sub
de5utante are coming into their own.
i After two years of utter neglect the debt
piled up is 10 he paid. and paid in full
with all past interest due.
Parties. dinners and dances galore arc on the
programme one crowding the other closely
that two years reserve strength would seem
necessity 1t seems. too. as il everything had
been designed in frocks with an eye to the
requirements of the debutante-short skirts.
short sleeves oceans OF rufflcs and foolish little
trimmings-and the matron will have to find
something suitable best she may.
Now it is a well known fact that seldom does
the very young woman favor the type OF dress
that her elders would choose for her. The ador-
able youthful models hold no particular charm
for the adorable youthful girl. but all this has
been cleverly attended to by some who un-
derstands these matters well The vamp and
the baby vamp are out of the running to
great extent. but it is bit too soon to expect
a direct change so in spite of soft colors and
multtudes Of ruffles there is frequently touch
of sophstcaton.
If the very young woman is bit determined
she will finally win. for back in the corners
here and there are some deciousy subtle
frocks. to those Of black Chantlly lace,
which no ono could possibly call suitable for
the debutante unless should see the modi-
ficatons as shown in the models.
AS to colors. the matron again is in for
very hard time If she is to continue in the
height OF fashion. BE 1t admitted that the col
ors are freshcr and clearer than ever. they
a triflo difficult for any but the very youth
fu to wear
One is struck Immediately with the difference
In the shades shown for the d6butante and
those in the regular department Most of the
colors are intensified. and the pastel shades
the matron is supposed to wear slightly
more than that when shown for the younger
woman Jade color is oi the seasons most
mauve is also liked.
Taffeta is quite evidently the material best
adapted to the present modes in all the after
noon frocks; whether in light colors or dark
blues and browns for the street. it asserts itself
in the bulging skirts. For afternoon one finds
with the taffeta. Nets Of the finest possible
mesh are amazingly embroidered ib eyelet The
last thing one would expect to see uAed net
and a thing that would be impossible If the
net we're not almost fine as wolfe.
combination Of three materials proNes
success ~ Luen DIRE with bindings oNred
and white checked gingham and finshS.
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

PARIS, December 20 1919.
"HE Paris dressmakers and mners are
showing dozens of models every
u day. and still il seems almost impossible
70 meet the demand Exquisite hats
and dresses, beautiful blouses and tea gowns
and lingerie of the finest, to say nothing OF
the modsh little accessories that French
women make so much Of are being sold at un-
believable prices. 1t seems a curious state of
affairs that there should be such abun-
dance of all of these fanciful and expensive
things when the good substantial articles,
such as heavy shoes. woollen stockings
and underwear and good gloves. difficult
to find.
The fact that the department store strikes
were settled in favor of the stores and the
grand magasins going full blast again has
not made shopping any less difficult for the
housekeepers. The shoppers go from store to
store trying to find ordinary kitchen utensils
and household furnishings ut reasonable prices,
and when they have failed they go straight to
the expensive dressmaker and spend every
sou of their money on the fancifu and gaudy
things that are to be in these shops de
luxe. 1t is partly for this reason that the
Of winter models which were shown in August
were insufficient to meet the demands and
they have made many models that
those of the original collection have been
forced into the background. 1t thus appears
that entire new collections being shown in
the dressmaking establishments. though the
season is scarcely half
These new models are not demi-season crea-
tons That is yet another story. for the demi-
season models are being made of toiles,
especially for the American buyers, who
the French dressmakers say insist upon
season every day in the week. The present
Great ons have appeared the market so
gradually that it is only after absence of
several months from Paris that realizes
that they have formed themselves into
collections
The lines of these models have not
changed materially unless the backs perhaps
are little more covered. / notice that Jenny
is showing some twenty or more models
principally afternoon and evening dresses, and
hile the backs cut low as many
of them have straps running up to the shoulder
meet cross strap to hold them in place.
These straps do not form the little harness
composed OF narrow straps that noted in
the early season. hut broad pieces that
really cover the back, leaving only narrow
Sits for the bare back to peep through.
one of Jenny's creations is like this. 1t
is little afternoon dancing dress or semi
made of brick red velvet. very short in skirt.
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

The extensions Of the material are merely
strips double and inset into the sides of the
skirt so that they extend like fins the sides.
The smartest of the .frocks have no collars.
or. at least. the frocks intended for smart oc-
casions have collars. and this dress follow
ing this lead has only tiny row Of the loops
about the neck.
Figured materials among the most diff
cult to treat but some particularly smart little
frocks. with real dash. in reds and
blues in very conventional patterns. That tho
patterned material is not combined with plain
probably adds TO the smartness, the ruff
files about the neck and sleeves. fine pleatings
OF tho material, give the frock distinction,
The material OF these particular frocks is in
destructible voile and the pattern is white dot
not too large and set closely the ground
OF red or blue that there is white than
color. The skirt is caught up under. harem
fashion. and trimmed with perpendicular ruff
files of the same fine pleatng that used on
the bodice.
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

To TUE EDITOR THE HERALD
war operations when published on the
= other side will be an eye-opener to
many hot air patriots in France and
England but especially in France.
One must have been. like the writer OF this,
over five years witness of the terrific scram-
errors to be able to try to explain.
If France lost 1.600O 900 of her best sons only
TO keep the Germans back in the historic fights
of the Marne the User. verdun the Aisne the
Somme and the Argonne and If England lost
over 1O0O 900 men in those same battles IL is
today stablished that more than one-half of
those lives were sacrificed on account Of either
political interference or bad gencralshp
I'm no part OF all French history can be found
SO many heroic deaths you will find in the
first two years of the war 1914 and 1915 TO
prove this il is only necessary to read the roll
90 honor published by the Journal Officiel
where YOU can find many thousands of citations
Of heroes and every OF those citations
makes YOU realize what wonderful fighters old
France had in the field. What is true OF
France is equally true OF England
The Germans certainly did some work but
Germany was a military machine. ready in
every line and at the start outnumbering in
men guns and machine guns by three to one
the English and French armies. The German
soldier fought in "a successful onslaught and
Berlin Was Illuminated live to six times every
week.
rhe French and English fought in defence,
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

with puffed apron effect in front. There is
something very and curious about this
apron, as it is really not an apron but is
part of the skirt proper and is cut to stand
out and look rather puffy and is outlined by
deep tucks. The bodice rises rather high in
front, while the under arms are left perfectly
bare and the two broad straps entirely cover
tho back. There is no trimming anywhere
about the dress. Its unusual color carries it
through. | noticed il one afternoon at the
The New York herald., 1920-01-04
Photos from Manuel. Copyright b, Underwood
Underwood

too heavy. The foundation dress is straight
robe chemise with four squares attached to
it, one in the front and back and one at each
side The squares are piped by gold and cop
per braid and alta cbed to each other at a cor
by little ostrich pompon, thus forming
framework overskirt.
These same square drapcries figure in an
other model of Jenny's. made of flame
coored chiffons. The squares are in three
layers of chiffon shading from true flame
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

red to a mauve and purple. The raperies
flowing and fluttering, make the mannequin
look if she ready for the fire dance.
The colors beautifully blended
AL OF the dressmakers showed these square
dra perics at the August openings, but they
were invariably in tule or lace. 1t is only re-
Gently that the style has become so general
that they are seen in velvet and all the heavier
fabrics. Renee favors the same type of dress,
but her overskirt is formed by five squares
The New York herald., 1920-01-04

dancing house of Penthouse" and it
stood out distinctly the most modish cos
tune there.
Jenny is favoring these simple little velvet
dresses for the moment, and they marked
success. She shows another in bright golden
brown called 'foXtrot." II has the picket
fence or toothke draperies which squares
of the velvet attached to the skirt at the
waistline and left to flutter in the breeze to
give the effect OF funess without appearing