Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1920-02-04
Elton JACKET AGAIN
IN W0MEN'S FAVOR
Spring Hats Show Feather Trim
mings, While Silk Stocks Arc
in Exile.

Gertrude I<dnbach In Baltimore Sun.
New York, Jan. 81.
Despite the fact that tho Eton is trying
on all but girlish figures. it is being made
adaptable for the maturcd figures As
we'll. and with the skill and understanding
of tho woman designer many models are
being shown which will enable tho woman
who thinks herself large" to wear them
without feeling herself fright" Fol
example, the Elton jacket is often madc a
part Of what is called the three piece cos
tune. and the long lines preserved in the
bodice and skirt overcome the stunning
effect of the little jacket itself.
These three-piece costumes are quite
the newest things in tailored suits. They
arc made of wool twill, serge, trlcotine
and lightweight duvetyn, usually IN dark
shades of navy and blue. The bodice part
BY way of contrast, is Of gold or silver
cloth, and the general effect is that OF q
smart afternoon costume. In some OF
the very nobbicst models tho jacket is
entirely without sleeves, the sleeves of
the bodice serving a double pur pose. In
that case the sleeves arc of adjustable
lengths and by means of links can be
changed from wrist length to the shorter
French sleeve. frequently the shirt in
these three-piece costumes has bit OF
the skirts invariably taper at the hem.
conforming to a nicely to the modified
barrell silhouette of the spring season.
FEMININE TOUCH OBVIOUS.
The femme touch is apparent as never
before in the tailored suits for spring.
In the case of an altogether adorable little
model, with Eton jacket and accordion
pleated skirt, this touch WAS noted in the
addition of bright plaid girdle with
SIDE strcamers The suit itself WIS in
midnight blue and the addition of the
Clrdle so Frightened il that the figure
At which it was marked, namely $3.50,
made IL seem one of the best buys OF
tho season
Apart from tho cloth suits which have
this dreesy note about them there are the
ever-eerviceable tweed sport suits. Some
are singlc-breasted, some double breasted,
their picturesque ruggedness being OBJ
tanned not by sacrificing style but by the
clever weaving and fashioning of materials
that seem to tell tale OF outdoor LIE,
of the misty heather OF Scotland OF the
charming old gardens of England or the
CHEEKY warmth Of the peat fires OF old
Ireland.
But the r~al new thing H the sports
suit OF camel's hair, oftImes with collar
and cuffs of Angora. Sometimes the
e,,,t = of soft white cAmels hair, with
blsck AngorA collar and cuffs striking
combination. Agsln il is white with
blue, or blue with yellow, but always there
is contrasting shade 10 emphasize the
warmth and relieve what might otherwise
be termed severe note.
While leather trimming is frequently
seen on dresses and suits, it n "the big
thing" in spring hats, and the more shiny
the leather, the smarter the hat. Indeed,
one can well imagine that faithful old
Dinah. such A. poets may soon immortal
ne As belonging to "the dear old days OF
long ago, polished the oilcloth on the
kitchen table until she could see here own
dusky fAce In II and then presented Ut
% her blessed chile" for that young
womAn's new spring bonnet. The hrst
time | saw q hat Of tins shiny leather
material il quite look my breath away.
II WIS st afternoon tea Al the Ritz-Cari-
ton. where afternoon tea ls An imposing
function these DAYS. There vAe some
very Vivid red straw visible on the turban
Of striking blonde seated at table
nearby. but even more VIVID thsn the
red straw ~as the red shiny material which
covered the crown and even borrowed
some of the brlm TO show itself OH
Upon visiting the millinery salons the
next dAy ] learned that patent leather,
cellophone-a material that seems similar
70 the oid-fashioned lsinglase IN substance
and rAnsparency. but with high polish
and another lacouered material called
Gene, together with leather flowers and
fringe, would dominate IN spring millinery.
Frequently the materials are combined
with rafha, hair straw, legborn and tulie.
A very smart model OF 3 soft shade OF
brown In the last-nsmed material not
only made use Of the leather but combined
WITH blondine feathers OF darker brown,
4 formed q hat 10 soften the most severe
contour.
Hats are lArEe-hAts are smAn-as
YOU vii. Dame Fashion IA. grown de-
cidedly more tolerant ID this respect
making IL no longer necessary for woman
&c disngure herself simply because of
mad edict II Is said, however, that the
emxller hints are being bought more freely
for general wear, while the larger hats
are chosen for occasions Of dress.
Silk stockings have been banished to
the drxwinR-room and parior. Perhaps
the high prices have something To do
with their exile. Al any rate, the TACT
remains that for general wear heavy wool
stockings Of subdued color and design
have replaced them entirely. With these
heavy wool stockings oxfords are worn in
various colors, among which copper, dark
puppies and dark blues predominant.
IL looks as If the American woman is
being educated 10 wear the ankle bracelet,
Tor the smartest patent leather slippers
for afternoon wear have attached 10 them
bracelet of the patent leather with q small
rhinestone buckle, while the slipper itself
IL embellished with rhinestone buttons
Practically all slippers for spring,
whether sandals, pumps or oxfords, are
made on the French last, which means
a short vanap and round toe. The Amer
can woman, WIS told, has not taken
kindly 20 the short vamp and round toe,
preferring the long vamp and pointed toe
She has been forced to adopt them, how
ever, because Of the short skirt which
PARIS has insisted upon as modish
There Is nothing uglier said New
Works leading custom shoemaker than
a sbort skirt and a long, big foot beneath
- Ahsta .hu Chrrs .,.I r,ts,,l