davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

was called sample. It went into a glass case where it was displayed to buyers who came to select models for the seasons business. Before the sample went to the glass case work ing pattern was made from it. This working pattern was a chemise cut out of heavy paper and on the paper was sketched the pattern of the lace trimming. with carefully written memorandum of the number of yards of lace required.
 The working pattern. or dummy. as it is called then went to the factory. In room two hundred feet long and half as many feet wide the material for the chemise is piled in layers and layers and sometimes hundred or more chemises are cut out at one time with an electric cutter. In another room the yards of lace for the trim ming are being cut. Along go the material and trimmings to another de- partment with the dummy sample. and the pink chemise moves along from machine to machine where busy girls do various kinds of work: Hem ming. felling seams. hemstitching, joining lace. ruffiing and even sewing on buttons. The final process is the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

MA UFFLES and f1ounces do not look E well on plump figures; the new
 FM spring costumes-and especially
 Al W the captivating eton suits-de-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
Thinning Down
 for Spring Frocks

WA UFFLES and f1ounces do not look E.% well on plump figures; the new RsM spring costumes-and especially
 M the captivating eton suits-de- mand slenderness of line. So good many women are frantically trying to achieve slenderness in order to wear the frilIs and the etons of the new season. Spring is the time of times 10 reduce. The green vegetables are obtainable and eggs which are nu- tricious and yet not fattening are growing less expensive every day. The heating foods such as meat, fats and sweets are not as necessary as they are in cold weather. The walking is better. also. and one may get out more for long tramps--and nothing is better for the figure than 8 good long walk every day. Not only does the brisk exercise make muscles more supple and lines trimmer, but brisk walking induces deep breathing and plenty of oxygen taken into the lungs burns up fat.
 The one sure way to lose weight Is to cut out fat producing foods from the diet. This means you must give ! up all sweets butter, rich gravies. the erispy part of roast meats and
 chicken, salad dressings that are made
 with oil. and especially beverages that
 are piled with whipped cream. Po- tatoes must be avoided as the plague. Lean meats may be eaten and most of the vegetables, crusty bread and toast without butter, salads. entrees not made with milk and---if you must have a taste of sweet, light jellies un- garnished with whipped cream. If you feel hungry between meals take a glass of water. If you feel actually faint and gone" nibble at a whole wheat biscuit or take a beaten egg in glass of milk. While you are on the strict diet the egg and milk will give you strength without adding fat to your silhouette,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
How Your Pink Chemise Was Made.

E F it Is hand made affair of
 sheer pink linen. with a few tiny
 tucks and perhaps a simple edge of hand crochet you pay good rice for it because one person has |Nnade it--by hand.If it is an elaborate affair of pink batiste or voile trimmed with lace insertion and edging and made by machine. perhaps dozen people have worked on it-yet you pay considerably less for it. That seems queer. does it not? But the distinction of the linen chemise lies in its hand made quality and in its ma ierial-fine. soft linen which is a bit of a luxury but the smartest fabric now for lingerie garments.
 Have you ever been in one of the factories where machine made under garments are turned out9 Big, bright and - nowadays beautifully clean places are these factories and despite the hundreds of people at work and the whir of the busy machines, there is a wonderful order. Your pink batiste and lace chemise was first fashioned by a special worker. She produced it on special machine from a sketch made by -salaried de- signer. The garment thus produced
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

tie boy. For the chubby laddie there are cunning Oliver Twist suits with waist. These quaint little suits are built of linen in two shades, of cham bray and of wash silk. They admit of more dainty ornamentation than the conventional sailor attire which must be very well tailored and correct as to detail. In the street the small boy wears a smart topcoat and roll brim sailor hat of milan straw. As spring days advance his buttoned walking shoes will be accompanied by short socks.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
TAKE CARE OF GOOD BOOKS

At spring cleaning-time every book should be dusted separately and a, fine, soft brush whisked in all the crevices where dust may lodge. Keep in the library. also. some trans parent adhesive tape and a pair of sharp scissors; you can mend torn magazine cover in a jiffy, or a book page that someone has torn. You can mend with the adhesive tape, pages of music. and can straighten out bent corners of playing cards. putting tiny section of the tape under the corner.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

also the ruffile farther up, at the hip. gives light and graceful effect to the costume.
 Conventional Spring Togs For Little
 Maids
 The big little girl-.-she who is on the way to her teens and growing rapidly-has costumes that begin to look like mothers. That is, the grown-up styles are adapted for her wear. Her spring frock is likely to be of soft chiffon taffeta, and very pretty model is pictured. Blue as blue eyes is this little taffeta frock and the ornamental buttons are blue also. The
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
Child Culture Takes Hand With Hygiene In Producing Clothes for Youngsters Quaint Fashions for Wee Tots 0rgandy Ruf1es Flutter Bravely This
 Year Tabs Favored Trimming.

"A H, 50 scientific is the raiment of H # childhood becoming! A few years M Mago hygiene was the thing care- ~ fully emphasized. The child's garments must be light yet warm, at tractive in color and line yet so fash toned that every part of the growing body would have opportunity to de- velop as it should. Learned people spent hours of concentration evolving proper undergarments and proper shoes for kiddies. Asa result the child is very comfortable and very healthy and therefore very happy in its mod .ern clothes
 |j But science discovered that the child was not happy enough! Besides being a comfort to it's body, clothes should be an inspiration to it's mind. Child culture took a hand. The small person must not be compelled to wear regulation raiment. Individuality must be expressed; an appeal must be made to youthful imagination and youthful taste. Self-determination is the cryptic phrase employed by modern designers of juvenile clothing. The child's rail ment must express his personal indi- yiduality. ''You must know your child" say the opponents of this new ideal, "to dress him properly" Says a trade Journal, speaking of fashions for the younger set: Every tiniest child contributes it's share to the being of the country and though territorial integrity may seem to have little in- fiuence upon the rufffes of child's frock, the thought behind is of the same quality" Deep stuff, may think the puzzled mother, turning off little Dorothy's play dresses on the home
 sewing machine. But all she has to
 do is to study child culture. observe her little Dorothy-and then outfit her
 perfectly from the intelligently pro-
 vided garments provided by scientific \ manufacturers.
 Individuality In Youngsters Attire F As a matter of fact great strides
 have been made in clothing for little people. Styles are full of interest, of
 individuality, of artistic expression.
 The cheapest little print frock on the
 bargain counter has something"
 about 1t that simply cannot be pro-
 duced on the home sewing machine.
 This something is the product of
 trained skill, intelligent perception of
 child needs and the new ideal of
 beauty and interest in childish rai-
 ment Children are little pictures
 nowadays and it does not cost a great
 deal to outfit them adorably, for the
 new ideals are expressed in fnexpens-
 i've garments as well as in garments of
 silk and hand embroidered. fairy-fne
 muslin.
 Play costumes especially show this
 artistic quality. Regeneration ago chill
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
LIZAR
 AZ/ZDZ2AIW

HA OBODY is so luxurious as the # R baby Even if. in later years, he
 vls going to have his economic . A struggles and face his problem of getting on in the world. his infancy is surrounded with silks and laces and soft and pleasant things. Not only the baby "born with gold spoon in his mouth" falls heir to luxury. Even the average baby--the baby born with q silver plated spoon for his porrige bowl--must have his enameled wicker wardrobes. his patent collapsi- ble rubber bath, his bassinette deep with down pillows and hung with rib- bon and lace.
 Nothing IS ever too good for BABY. What his majesty, the baby. thinks about 1t, no one knows. Very likely he would be just as happy wrapped in blanket, taking his daily outing in soap box nailed to a toy express wagon and with a molasses covered spoon 10 play with en route. One has seen happier looking babies. thus dressed and occupied. than have been glimpsed amid the ermine and em- broidered satin of gaudier equipages.
 The real truth of the matter is that as long as baby is warm and well fed and sufficiently amused not to be bored-if there is anything baby does resent it is being bored-life is beautiful to him. Ii is mostly his fond mamma who enjoys his silken and lace trappings-and the dignified and capable person who acts as his body guard when he goes abroad.
 Gone are the days. when anybody was good enough to mind the baby when Nellie. the washerwomansl lit- tie girl came round after school to push babys carriage up and down the street. Gone arc the days when Katy left her work in the kitchen. whisked
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

cuffs, the overlapping bodice-front and the skirt pockets are all new and interesting details. For this little maid of eleven is also the particularly good looking tailored suit of mixed gray wool fabric of very light weight. Skirt and jacket have plenty of flare. introduced in fatly pressed pleats. In tan or blue linen these belted jacket suits are a splendid choice for the lit- tie maids all-summer wear,
 What The Little Boy Wears
 For all ages of boyhood there are sailor suits. The thin little boy looks better in these suits than the fat It,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

When the baby's nurse takes her charge out of doors. she dons over her white dress. full length coat of dark blue material. and with deep cape from collar to waistline. In win ter this coat is made of heavy cloth, in summer of the lightest mohair or pongee. The tiny bonnet is part of the uniform and its white lawn strings must always be crisply ironed and spotlessly fresh. Sometimes the nurse changes to black shoes when she goes out, but the soft white suede or buck skin shoes that accompany the white house uniform are frequently worn with the street coat.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
SPAT BOOTS HAVE DAINTY
 HINES

HcHARMING new boot appeared
 F& in New York recently They are / Scaled spat-boots and the effect is that of light. French heeled pomp of patent leather, buttoned trimly under d fawn coIored cloth spat. But the spat and the pomp are one; that is the new model in foot wear is really a buttoned shoe, its cloth top so shaped-with strap that extends down over the vamp-that the spat effect is conveyed. These dainty boots gives instep and ankle a melted -poured-in look and the boot Is delightfully."- comfortable for spring days in it's dainty thinness of material. It comes in patent leather with the buttoned top of fawn cloth and also in d slightly heavier model of Cordovan calf with fawn cloth top for wear on wet days
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

on long white apron and walked out with baby all the afternoon.
 But to offset Katy's open disinterest in baby, there are trained persons ready to look after him: ready indeed to take all the responsibility Of him. They know exactly what he should weigh at given date and if he doesn't. why he doesn't. No infantile ailment can puzzle his ignorant little mamma while one of these competent beings is around. Their trained sense recognizes what is the matter with him. and whether it is pain, boredom or temper that makes him throw his head back in that funny alarming fashion and get so red in the face. Even the little nursemaid who does not pretend to be a baby expert knows all about babies. She has taken d special course" and learned how to handle a clinical thermometer and how to prepare modified milk. As for the trained expert---well there is noth- ing you can hope toIteach her about infants. From the moment she steps into the nursery, calm, capable, re- sponsible. she takes command of the situation. of the baby. of the house hold.
 Of course. this important person has special uniform. Not half so impressive would she be in just an ordinary black alpaca gown and ample white apron. Her costume is patterned after that of the English nursemaid and 1t has picturesque- ness of its own, and afdignity that is admirable. One has seen rosy checked little nurses. clad in this dignified uni form-with white bonnet strings de- murely knotted under their round chins--flirting geniaily with park po- licemen the while their tender charges kicked and screamed in abandoned
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

dren who were all dressed up in rufTies and sashes. to appear before company in the afternoon, went about during play hours in checked gingham pima fores whose shapeless lines made no pretense toward individuality or charm. Behold the modern play cos tunes! Two examples are pictured The wee boy and girl are dressed in light colored linen and their little gar ments are cut with a view toward easy laundering.
 Play Clothes Of Linen
 There is nothing like linen for play wear. It will stand any amount of rough treatment; sliding down cellar doors, rolling on grass, pushing through brambles. inadvertently step ping into brooks-none of these harm linen in the least. After visit to the laundress it comes back fresh and lustrous as ever and maintaining it's shapely lines in the small garment.
 The little boy in the picture wears cunning play suit-jacket and brooches instead Of the shameless romper, but the garment is really all in one- piece--for the convenience of the laundress. and for easy putting on and off. The linen is soft pink in shade and all edges are bound with white. A little white cord necktie adds delightful smartness, and the slashes and tabs of the jacket intro- duce that touch of individuality that the self-determinate child is supposed to crave-as above pointed out Quite infaracfino ind Il. < little girls play frock. Tabs here too. turned down on the bolero jacket, and up on the cunning elbow sleeve. This frock is all in one piece too and the bolero is really a deep yoke with over hanging tab edges. The frock is of pale yellow linen embroidered smart ly with blue wool
 Yellow And Orange Fashionable
 Shades
 So many of the childish costumes this spring are in yellow tones! There is for instance stunning little ging- ham frock of yellow, black and white checked gingham. trimmed with col lar, cuffs and pocket flaps of white pique buttonhoIed with orange silk Big white pearl buttons add the fin ishing touch. Another frock is of orange Japanese crepe trimmed with black wool embroideries in tiny. con- ventional figures. The sash is of kings blue velvet ribbon-two lengths which pass under slashes at the waist line and tie in futtering ends at each hip.
 Dancing School Frocks Are
 Enchanting
 The special affair which winds up
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

perambulators so placed that the full sunlight blazed into infantile eyes.
 In the house the nurse usually wears white; a white frock on the simplest lines. whte footwear and crisp white cap. Sometimes the house dress is pale blue-linen or chambray -with white footwear and cap. The nurse does not wear an apron. except when engaged in special work in the nursery like giving baby his bath or washing out little socks. Her white dress is soft and comfortable. open at the throat with a turned back col lar and with sleeves that button at the wrist. Fresh and immaculate it must be. but it has not the stiffness and rigid lines of the uniform worn by the hospital nurse.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21

pressing and then the pink chemise is ready to go out on its journey to you. Yet all it's perigrinations from design CT to cutter. to stitching machines. to pressing room have taken less time than it took one worker to make the pink linen chemise by handi
The Birmingham age-herald., 1920-03-21
Dancing School Frocks 4
 Enchanting

The special affair which winds up the dancing school season calls for
Omaha daily bee., 1920-01-29
Challenging the Attorney
-. General

1t developed yesterday that neither of the
sedition bills in congress now has the approval
or Attorney General Palmer, although he
shares with the committee the responsibility
for them. In view of the dangerous power
which this legislation seeks to employ as
against speech and press in time of peace. it is
sheer reckessness to proceed with such meas
ures in the haphazard way that thus far has
characterized the movement.
Notwithstanding a considerable body OF
law, national and state, on the subject of con-
spiracy. rebellion and other crimes intended
to weaken or destroy popular government the
attorney general has complained that the feder-
al statutes are not as specific in their applica-
ton to citizens as to aliens. If after all the
vcissitudes of the republic since 1887 we are at
this late day suddenly confronted by lack OF
law to punish such offenses when committed by
citizens which has not yet been proved, an act
in a few plain words ought to be sufficient
. Instead of that we xhaye bills of great
length that embrace within the category OF
crime almost everything that excitable or des-
potic officials may choose to regard as Sc.
ditions To the Postohice department, al
ready one of the most irresponsible governmen.
tai agencies in the world whose chief has boast
ed that it is superior to the courts is given the
every description. Speech which may be only
exaggerated and foolish is made subject ia
outrageous penalties on the word of any in.
former or heresy-hunter.
If the attorney general has in mind a rea
crime against which the law does not rum lie,
him name it. The sedition bills attributed tc
him create countless new crimes which in fact
are not crimes at all where men are free.-New
York World
Omaha daily bee., 1920-01-29
Our Middle With Mexico,

The resignation by Mr.. Fletcher OF his as
signment as minister to Mexico may emphasize
the unsettled relations between the two coun-
tries, but it did not come as surprise. Six
weeks ago Colonel Harvey made the fiat state
rnent in his Weekly that Mr.. Fletcher would
not return to Mexico. His experience with Car
rama was enough to convince him that that
chief had no intention OF taking any definite or
serious steps in the direction of changing con-
ditions so far as Americans are concerned. In
arraigning the policy of the administration Col
onel Harvey also said the Fall resolution, ask
ing for intervention, had received democratic
support up to the point where it was useful to
sustain the influence of the Lansing ultimatum
in the jenkins case. When the Carranzistas at
Puebla had yielded to the point of releasing the
American vice, consul on BAIL the pressure from
Washington was removed and the Fall resolu-
ton was practically abandoned. The effect of
this hot and cold policy, which has been pur-
sued by the Wilson administration from the
start, with Tampco, Vera Cruz and Carrizal as
the high points along the dreary route is shown
in the contempt Carranza exhibits for the
United States. The one prospect for better un-
derstandng and more neighbory behavior on
part of the Mexicans is in the successor to Will
son. An end will come to the farce ofN"watch-
full waiting" some day.
Omaha daily bee., 1920-01-29
@z!Aee}ySS2
.&NSr81N,
Way to Salvation.

Grand Island. Neb.. Jan. 27.-To
the Editor of The Bee. Your Sun.
day editorial on Blessing of Indus.
try" was one which l believe has
hit the nail on the head of our So
called progressive age.
What singular shape of a man.
shape of time, have we today and
in this late history; how strangely
do modes, creeds. formularies, and
the date and place of mans birth,
modify the figure of man? You
said in your last paragraph: "This
spirit must be eradicated. Man
must be restored to his proud place
as a producer, creator. a bfinger
forth of good and useful things. He
must learn that industry is the only
true way to happiness. Work or
starve is hard rule, but it is ma
ture's law"
Clearly there can be no talk or ar
gument about the theory and prac-
tice, which has to be changed, but
flrst of all. we need a understanding
about man--character and personal.
ity.
Let me put my answer into a
brief statement. One thing know,
never, on this earth, was the rela.
ton OF man to man carried on ex-
cept by payment alone. If at any
time. philosophy of 'Jaissez faire."
competition and supply and de-
mand start up as the exponent Of
human relation, expect that it soon
will end. AS the ideal, the true and
noble that was in man has faded
out. and nothing remains but naked
egoisn7, ruthless greediness. which
cannot live. his character has to be
remodeled in order to become a per-
sonality. which will create and
produce.
"Work or starve Is a hard rule.
but 1t is natures law" which has to
come in order that man again may
become most distinctive In the fields
OF science, morality and art, that set
the goal and stint ulate the Aspira.
ton towards the ideal of personal
development. This ideal is nothing
less or lower than the perfect per-
son. and the practical cXhurtation
which follow logically from this ideal
is that one should be striving intel
ltgently, consistently and with un-
swerving constancy towards the goal
In such striving lies the secret of
manhood. BERT BAHR.
Omaha daily bee., 1920-01-29
Keeping Faith With the Soldiers.

A dispatch from the Washington CORE
spondent of our ariable democratic contem-
porary accuses the republicans in congress of
neglecting the soldiers, particularly the sick and
wounded. Especially does it lay stress on the
fact that not enough money has been set
aside to adequately provide for the re-
fabilitation of the temporary disabled and
the vocational training of those who need the
instruction With its customary watchfu1ness,
the World Herald omits to publish the speech
of Representative Johnson of South Dakota,
who shows the facts in the case.
Representative Johnson on Tuesday told the
house some things he had discovered in con-
neeton with the treatment of sick and wounded
soldiers. The money set apart by congress to
pay for their treatment he asserted, is not being
spent. The War department and the surgeon
general of the public health service have not
taken advantage of the provisions made for
these men, and are requiring wounded men to
vacate hospital rooms before they have recov-
cred in order that Others worse off may have
the bed. He describes actually existing cond-
tons that are shocking.
The charge that the republican party is mig
gard in its treatment Of the soldiers is prepos-
ferrous. For fifty years the democrats used as
a standard campaign argument the prodigality
with which the republicans made provision for
the men who had followed-the flag into battle.
Now when the incompetenoy and rismanage-
ment OF the War department is being disclosed,
supporters of the administration hope to save
themselves by accusing the majority in con-
gress of failure TO- set apart money for the care
Of sick and wounded soldiers. The ostrich with
its head stuck in the sand has the advantage Of
alibi