Middletown transcript., 1920-10-16
Styles in New. 5.,''
IS Gowns in arts

the arm until It approaches the elbow
The French people believe. always.
that suit which devfates slightly from
the strictly tailored variety is much
better style than the one which adj
heres too closely to all of the masculine
characteristics. They insist that 1t Is,
in the end. more attractfvely femi
nine thing II It always keeps III mind
the fact that It Is to be worn BY
woman. And surely their suits remain
as practical as ours. which must he
more closely fitted, more hardy tall
ored. In some ways they may be worn
for a greater length Of time. for tie
unevenness Of their design allows some
slight imperfections to exist without
being too broadly visible.
As for the Partisan idea Of all that
Is lovely in woman's attire, there Is
the little, Lanvin model for pertinent
comparison. That has all the softness.
transparency and grace that they con-
slider essentials of a woman's gowning.
The materials are biack tAffe.a and
tulle, and the little flowers which are
scattered carelessly over the surface
Of the tulle everdress are made Of
cleverly twisted pieces Of the taffeta
with golden centers. No. there is MOTH
ing decidedly new about this charm
ingly simple frock. but its character
Is fine and its tone Is one " beauty
in all that the French seem to be de-
handing for a standard.
Much lace continues to be seen on
the dresses that have been exhibited
at the Partisan races. where all the
style tendencies of the season to come
are put forward. One Of the newest
dresses seen at this time had founda-
tion of figured silk made in chemise
fashion. with quite short sleeves and a
rounded neck. There was a lace cape
over the back and a lace underskirt
that showed for space Of about five
inches beneath the silk hem Of the
gown. It was a graceful thing. with
the straightest Of silhouette lines. but
with the airiness and floating quality
that lace gives.
Chem1Se Dress HOLDS own.
The chemise dress, indeed, holds its
own in most remarkable way. Those
who are returning from Paris say that
nothing else can be seen on the bouIe-
wards. Sometimes they are embroid-
cred over every inch Of the surface
that shows. sometimes they are mere
~ trimmed with tnc0nspicu0us though
designed rows Of embroidered
sometimes the embroidery
itself in solidly worked bands
Of bright colorings. and. again, the
chemise frock is made of simple.
plainly woven and plainly colored silk
or satin that has nothing but its line
Its artistic and studied line-to rec
It for more than passing at
tention. A favorite method Of embroid-
ering the chemise frock is to carry the
stitchings (hand stitchings they must
be to be right) from the hem of the
gown to the hip line and then to allow
the rest of the gown to remain plain
and unadorned. with only string
belt to suggest the place where
waistline might be located.
The cape, or some variation Of the
cape. is still popular among the Pa
risians. The cuts of these capes are
rs diversified as the trimmings of the
chemise frocks. but always they re-
tain the same lines-straight, except
for a place at the front where they
IRE Rugged about the figure. A few
Of the newer capes have sort of blousy
tops with skirt section joined to them
down about the legs or quite under the
hips. These. with their collars OF fur.
or with furry edgings. are the most
graceful of outer coverings.
Evening frocks continue 70 be
draped and draped and then draped
again. A Partisan designer recognizes
no law in these her noblest works OF
art. but she regards the figure anG
what is best suited to 1t. Some of the
results are more perfect than others:
A foxv have nOSitivp marks ne onnjnc