The Chickasha daily express. (Chickasha, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1899-current, 1920-11-19

BY "MARJoRlEo

tWritien for the United Press
Fifth Avenues showing of real
midwinter dresses is playing some
tricks on the straight-line chcmise
dress. glimpse at the windows
all bedecked with rich gowns for
hurly-burly winter weather gives IA
strong hint that by springtide the
dresses will be fuller and wee bou-
ffant.
II is the uptown houses which ex-
hibit original models and imported
creations that are ringing the knell
Of the string bean dress" They
the following the example of Paris
which has swung away from the
straght-line dress for so long that
it is about ready to swing back to
il Americas swerve from univer.
sally becoming type of dress viii be
more gradual however The cou-
turiers are using all their cleverness
to merely fleck the gowns with some
phase of the new trend.
Thus. one of the leading gown
houses Of America is showing col.
lection of rich duvetyns and velvets
whose main deviation from the lines
of the chemise dress is found in the
Irregular hem line which curves
upward at the front Of the gown
The hem continues into wide con
trasting facing. Thus, model Of
cochin brown velvet continues its up
and down hem line into wide
front banding of margold colored
brocaded satin. This upward sweep
ing front line is found in many OF
the late winter models and gives
promise of directoire or Empire
line before long, as high waist
line seems to blend best with this
mounting hem.
Other houses are sponsoring
new silhouette by inserting umbrella
folds at the sides. Rich metallic
brocades or satins are combined in
this way with the main fabric of vel
vet, duvetyn or a heavy wool velour.
This exploitation Of the hips is very
contrary to the prevailing straight
line mode. Other hints Of IA coming
seasons bouffantness are given by
horizontal pin tucks at the hips or
tan'shaped pleatings of contrasting.
lighter weight fabrics.
Panels at the sides are also being
used This fad is especially noted
in blackand-white costumes. One
house is showing an importation
OF vide vale white serge or twill
banded and paneled in black satin
Small pearl buttons outline the band
lngs and hip panels. Panels, by the
way are very chic when used as ov.
ertunics. Another importing house
is showing a street gown of midnight
Dlue serge and black satin The
satin is used as a rather clinging un
derslip and the. serge is the tunic.
1t is about knee-length and is cut in
to deep points Of uneven length.
Some of the points are edged with
Tiny silk tasses that flop about
most piquantly
Mldwinter frocks, however are
not forsaking all the fashion de.
crees Of the earlier fall season.
Ihey are more chary of the tinsel
and embroidery that frosted the
gowns of yestermonth, but they are
exploiting the craze for insets of
contrasting color and material
That naive little pastime which a
popular song epitomzed some time
ago known as looking through the
knothole in fathers wooden Ieg" had
no view at all compared with that
of the flip little rosettes. dabs of
beads and other gewgaws that are
poked through slash or eyelet in
The bodice or skirt Of gown or the
front OF blouse.
One house is showing new model
Of seal coored duvetyn If one had
seen the fabric "m the piece II
would surely have been called dam
aged goods, for it is erraticany GOV
cred with oddly shaped holes and
S'ashes As made, however. the open
ings come at the top of the skirt.
over the shoulders and at the mid
dleiront of the bodice. These aper-
lures are filled with almond col
ored chamois skin.
other dresses are full Of large eye
lets embroidered IN colored silk and
lilled i'm with tiny dabs of CAV rib
oon or even tufts of fur One house
Is showing gown of black velvet
piomlseously slashed. The slashes
are underaid by ermine paillettes