Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-10-17
E hip. This type of evening gown

to one hip. This type of evening gown
dominates.
There is another kind which is
sponsored by Cheruit and which suits
the average American taste. 1t has a
round neckline which does not expose
much and the armholes droop over the
arms without an attempt at sleeves.
Whereas Cabot used metal brocade
for her evening gowns. Cherult used
silk damask, and both these fabrics
will be accepted by Americans for
winter frocks. Velvet was widely used
It was combined with lace at the
house of Cheruit and with gorgeous
beaded and embroidered ornaments
from the house of Cabot.
The white theater frock of Spanish
lace was advocated by Cheruit and
crepe de chine trimmed with dyed
lace The top coats of this house were
of heavy white material, fleecy as soap
suds, but having warmth White was
embroidered in black and white furs
were used as trimming.
Hoop skirts have vanished with the
French and American designers
houses. Ostrich plumes have gone
along with them. There are certain
designers who continue to drape col
ored tulle in a swirling manner over
slim satin frock, but the stiff cir
clets have gone. There is no buck
ram in any of the evening gowns.
There is an attempt to reinstate the
1870 fashions. 1t was natural that the
death of the ex-empress of the French
should have caused a stir among those
who followed current events to get
inspiration for clothes. There is a
house in Paris and one in New York
which have thrown their strength to-
ward 1870 evening frocks built of
white point d'esprit run with miles of
narrow blue ribbon. There is the small
black velvet bracelet with a huge fiat
pink silk rose to be worn on the wrist
This minor fashion may be accepted
fuses the wide gathered skirt.
For the woman with an average in
come there are black lace frocks com
bined with tulle and jet as in olden
days. The original cost is not slight
but such clothes can be constantly
worn without attracting undue atten-
ton. They are dateless, as the dress
makers say. The slips of these lace
gowns are tight and of black satin
and the Scarfs of thin lace. often Span
ish in design and texture are attach ed
to black silk net and flow over the
lining or fall into bias drapery. The
woman who does not care for solid
black is urged to have this train OF
apple green or nasturtium. The effect
is good.
The furriers strike, the animals
vanish. the trappers take other jobs
SO the price of fur goes up and up. +.
is said to be scarce, therefore the
price, but it appears casually on every
garment that can hold bit of it
Suits are heaped with attached collars
cloaks have enveloping shoulder capes
Of It and fur sleeves for warmth
evening wraps are entirely built of il
and the others are smothered with i,
ot a
X X 4
As it is the high fashion. what kind
Is preferred? Beaver ranks high, Is
the answer; also squirrel. seal, kolin.
sky, ermine. mole. caracul in gray and
beige, and trotting sturdily behind it,
aristocratic companions comes sheep.
skin. 1t is the fur of the trenches. II
has been of more value to mankind
than all the precious pelts heaped ir
pile. 1t is for the street coats ant
the big warm wraps for the motor
The French brought it into firstsfash'
ion for women, as the English officers
brought it into fashion for the men II
the field. The French dye it a pail
ugly gray, freezing to contemplate
Far better if our tailors should insis
upon the natural color, with which we
are familiar.
If a woman is in doubt as to tn
pelts she can afford this year, let he
first ask herself. before buying, if sh
has man in the family who ism
using his leather coat lined witt
sheepskin. She can burst into tn
front ranks Of fashion by applyin.
this warm fabric to a duvetyne cape
The fabric furs are in high deman
| and the best houses have fashione
wraps of this woven stun that is a
protective as fur and quite lovely
Loose top coats are built Of it TO
sturdy wear and the effect is far bet
ter than If the garments have bee
made Of cheap fur.
Paul Jones might have thought tina
| he led the fashion in waistcoats, O
| which he was overly fond, but he di
| not give much attention to his ha
| and yet it is this that Paris has copie
and made the mode. 1t is often i
black silk beaver, with its fatty turne
back brim and elongated ends o
which aSe puff balls of ostrich or 9th
| er fantastic ornaments
| The Navy hat may have been in
spired by the presence Of America
admirals on dress parade in Europ
after the armistice. for it has appear
ed in several conformations. The tr
! corne is in fashion also, and the maj
| Quise. One seems not to escape thi
| type of hat. 1t may be outlined wit
| gold galloon, it may have a hatpi
! arranged as cockade. It often, yer
o1,en, has face veil Of Chantilly lac