Evening star., 1920-03-29
Of7nfereSf fOWOnlen
FROCKS WITH LONG WAIST LINES.
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.

house and take cognizance of the
clothes offered. No leadership is OBJ
| served. Your type can be met in the
| straight or the distended frock, the
high or low neck. the short or long
sleeve. the knee length. boot length
or ankle length skirt. All are at your
bidding.
| Yet fashion has changed in subtle
manner. Everything wes wore last
autumn is not fresh enough in it's
A dozen canny variations lave shifted
clothes away from last seasons
moorings
There is the Ing waist line. fr in
! stance. 1t is not exactly the same as
it has been. 1t Is still oriental. but
twisted its effect into something more
piQuant. more observable.
Accentuated with Belt.
Ask for a chemise frock, and then
90 not be surprised if you are shown
a straight frock which is sharply
divided into two parts. The division
occurs at the hips. after the manner
of a child's slip. There are two FAB
rics and two colors put together
there. although the straight line is
not broken.
Where this division occurs there is
often a belt; not the narrow leather
one that has accompanied so many
frocks for year. but an oriental az
fair that is woven of crystals. This
type Of ornament is placed on the
plainest type of serge or jersey frock,
whereas it was once kept for silk or
even tulle and velvet.
Crystals are thrown about lavishly,
you know. They sparkle on the ma
jority Of the new clothes. Garnets.
sapphires. emeralds. jet. jade, quartz
in all shades glisten and glow over
the surface Of half the garments we
| will wear. They are especially helpful
in bringing a dark blue serge or pop
! lin into the limelight. If they are not
| woven on the skirt or bodice they are
| concentrated in the belt, and this is
! placed in the oriental manner down
at the hip line and fastened in front
with a conspicuous buckle.
| The belt is the dividing line Then
begins another frock. as it were. 1t
| may be in matching fabric and color :;
! often it is not, but it does not repeat
| the movement of the bodice. 1t puts
on pleats, or wings, or gathers 1t
| does not remain severe in treatment
even if it does in appearance.
Wings to Show FacinEs.
| The French dressmakers like the
! floating panel arranged in some in
| genious manner, and this season they
! have arrived at the conclusion that
this manipulation of fabric gives
| them chance to get some color into
the gown which seems to be the sar-
/, toriaI necessity Of the hour
/; One dressmaker worked it out in
the method shown in the SIX ketch. This
| frock is long-waisted and has a belt
| at the hips made of blue beads
mounted on net. 1t ends in a huge
buckle in front and is repeated in a
!, band at the hem of the skirt.
J. What distinguishes this new type of
straight frock from the chemise of
last season are the wings Of cloth
that are arranged like an apron put
on backward.
This drapery is cut to fall in ripples
down each side, carrying out the
fundamental idea which is embodied
in nearly all the new frocks, that of
| accentuating the sides of the skirt at
4 the expense of the back and front.
1 The inner edges of the drapery are
| faced with beige or dark red. Francc
uses both. This frock as it Is sketch
ed is in deep blue with red facings,
| but America will use it's own discre-
| tiOn in the coloring