The herald., 1920-01-15

embarks upon one Of the
small steamers which take
the mails to Bangkok. The steamer
makes for the low mangrove-fringed
shore which marks his destination and
presently enters the muddy Bangkok
river, writes 2. A. Thompson in
"Siam." On either side stretch salt
marshes, soon hidden behind the lux
uriant vegetation. Here on the oozy
banks are fern-like attap and rank
tropical growths, half submerged,
while rising from the firmer ground be
hind are the slender trunks and grace
full fronds Of areca and cocOnut palms.
Bangkok Is twelve miles from the
coast in q direct line, but so tortuous
is the river that 1t is fully three hours
before we arrive. Here a score Of
small steamers are anchored In mid
stream. Others lie alongside the
wharfs, together with sailing vessels
of all descriptions: merchantmen from
Europe. rice boats from up country,
and fishing boats from the gulf. Every
where we see Chinese toiling. Boats
ply to and fro between the banks, and
every now and then the little vessels
are set dancing and plunging In the
wash Of the steam launches which tear
by. At length we, too, draw in to q
wharf and land amidst piles Of goods.
Motley Throno in the Street.
Behind the wharfs and mills which
line the river on its eastern side, we
come upon a long street, white and
dusty in the dry months, and In the
rainy season a lane Of mud. Here at
all seasons a motley crowd Of Chinese,
Siamese, Malays, Hindus and Mahom-
etans jostle each other. while coolies
toll along at a foot pace with rick
shaws In the last stages Of dilapida-
ton. A crazy gharry, bearing a dis
tant resemblance to London growler
and drawn by diminutive pony.
bumps over the uneven surface, and
on one side Of the road electric trans,
packed with natives. are screeching
along the ill-laid track. None Of these
methods Of lOcomotion appeals to US,
nor do we feel inclined to mingle with
the throng of pedestrians. However, II
we are lucky we may find near by
stable, at which We may hire a pair
horse gharry, a sort Of miniature vic
toria. We will not look on while the
ponies are being put In, for 1t Is not
well to know exactly how much string
ia uSad In tho compocitiop of our no -
ness. 1t is certain that the proportion
is large, but If only the reins hold out
we must be thankful.
On either side are rows Of one
stored wooden houses. The shops on
the ground floor are quite open to the
street. and we can see Chinese carpen-
tiers. tsilors and bootmakers at work
inside, while elsewhere cheap cotton
goods and hardware are displayed
Now and then We pass Chinese JOSS
house with fantastic roof-ridge, and
through the open door we see an altar
, decked with tinsel and peacocks'
Feathers.
; Official Quarter and Royal Palace.
: Our driver expects US to direct him
at every step, so If we say nothing he
will keep straight on and We shall pres
emily come to the old city wall, white
washed now, and much disfigured with
telegraph wires. but with picturesque
battlements shaped like the leaves of
the sacred Bo tree. Within we are at
once sensible Of a great improvement
rs We bowl over the well-kept surface
OF broad avenue, planted with plane
trees, and bordered by neat rows of
brick houses. AS we cross a canal we
catch q glimpse of trees reflected in
the water, and trim lawns, and beyond
them pagodas blazing with pure gold
in the sunlight. This Is the official
quarter. Here, too. is the
Royal Palace, whose brilliant roofs
and iridescent spires are seen over the
dazzling whiteness of the outer wall.
Just outside the city wall Is the
Golden Mount, a bell-shaped mound,
faced with brick, but so overgrown by
trees that 1t has the appearance Of a
natural hillock. On the summit Is q
little shrine surmounted by pagoda.
ard to it leads flight Of steps, wind
ing about a hill. From here we look
down upon forest Of palms and plane
trees. through which break the red
roofs of the houses. Everywhere ris-
ing above the trees are graceful spires
and the manifold roofs of temples.