Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-10-17
The Exploited Street Suits.
New Frocks Like Monas-
tic Robes-Egypt Inspires
Evening. Gowns-Peltry a
Powerful Factor.
ny AWE RITTENHOUSE.


vs. REET suits for autumn are
more strongly EXPORTED pv
Americans than Paris Designers
- Those over here who 1olio" me
French designs make SUITS tha' d
n..r as one-piece frocks and coats'
o,,te ornamental, lavishiy embroioer-
, cd suitable for festal afternoon occa-
= sions.
Tb. American designers cling TO the
+baorv that the vast majority OF young
American women want the !.
suit having the price for cut anu III.
Su gu To- Elaborate coat suit is at Its
hagt on older women. 1t Is tne cos
tune for the dowager duchess.
slim coat of homespun or ause.y W.
ritb ;ts narrow short skirt Is tne SUI.
WIN ,.n,,noe slim figure. The world
Of women is divided between the two
The French suit, which has several
powerful American imltatoEs, coh $50
af , frock made in two parts; ions
-straight blouse with the soft straiEht
SKIRT attached to each other at .'e
hip line The coat that nan co'eis ' i
frock is of the skirt matef Id aitu -
beJted and furred and emhf oldereu 70
match the lavish ornamendatloii use'
This is an expensive costume II II
is well done, it is for the rich. II IL Is
mot well done, II SHoulu w q
The American tailored. as it is call
ed. has a heightened Jacket anu d
skirt that shows ae EN- bsn, there
are Jackets with a godet mare at .he
hips, and fiat back anu front Inc
newer coats drop in stralsnt iii'e
like a tunic to the knees h,,;,a
The fabrics which are used TO pulio
these suits are duvetyn. and rousn
. WOODEN English suitkhg ana Irlsh
homespun and the Amazingly aath
tive cloth one gets from the Noiah
carolina mills are prefe tired by Ameri-
an women. A tailor OF power is at
tempting to resurrect the fashlon Iol
small black and white. checked Woo.slis
and is sending out smart SUITS III Ills
/ material ooo+-
ara simple They are cut of VIDE ma
teriaI, they are unEned, they nann
slight gathers at the fnps and usualiy
a fanciful working ont OF poeh ,eo
slash in front of each hip. There Is no
attempt to bring back. much 1ulihess
and on the strictly tailored SUITS tneie
is no attempt whatever at ornaiheh'a
ton. t.+ .ra
slightly elaborated by a lavish design
of stitchery which resembles hne
braiding. This is not, new, such orna-
mentation, but it is in first 1asnloh
Even , s. the most fe u ssg = ms'Ve HOUSES
The blouse is altogether ignored;
The shops show a-fluring models OF
tea-tinted lace blonses to go WIN
elaborate coat SUITS but they are en-
tirely unsuitable for homespun coat
and skirt, or one Of duvetyn unless
If has taken to itself airs of ceremony.
The tendency of the times is 10
make coat suit asi frock. Inat Is
the reason behind Che obliteratlon OF
the blouse. The av1kage woman would
insist upon some kind of a blouse,
bwever, with a coat suit. and there is
IN effort on the part OF the faIis
houses to bring back fine handmade
ines of Persian lawn and handher-
Chief linen These, have high turnover
collars under VIII fch are passed wide
ribbons with pic'st edge.
No one exa 1; ynd knows plae wnel # the
coat is not to be lifted from the skir'
there will be NO necessity Tor any
thing more than q kind OF corset cover
sworn beneath T. II tne on fa shion
Is to rule there. will be no DIVISION Q.
the figure 'front.' shoulder to mem: II
looks as though it would be coat-Iroch
and the one-pie ce frock
There is a definite feeling. among
those who STUD ~ the source or ciotneS
that Nhe pilgri mage to Mecca inspired
the widely prevailing fashion LOT
rough wooden gowns cut in two pieces
on straight Ii Res with strlns slruie
at the hips, sng fiaring sleeves. Inc
pilgrims who were permitted to GO 10
their holy cit in Arabia 1or the hfst
time since tn a war broke wore 5he .
dull brown " sTsted coverings ana tne
Moroccans i kspired France with their
sharply des ea:ed embroidery done in
dull CLOWN colors
The carr! ing of the sacred carpel
inspired the new carpet emproloery
which is shO W n on number o! 1rocks
and which isl done as well IN Amerlca
as in Franc = 1t is powerful treno.
Even the amateur who embroioers
should be .,Syare of II. One can draw
a design fr ON any Mohammeoan Ga
pet and be sure of hitting the fashion.
These FIR bcks drop over the oody
Through til opening at the neck ana
Fare fasten ed down the front like
priests rd Se. The color Is galneo en-.
tirely thro ugh the embroidery Cocoa
brown, de, q beige, rust and Moroccan
br' * are E,metimes embroidered with
II bug les. which Lanvin brought
b FASH pn and accentuates on her
~ fns an q wraps.
d : chine in it's heaviest weave
The fasl ticnabIe fabric for afternoon
wns WI zen one does not desire vel
T. The r.. is an exclusive house IN
aris of which Madeline LeIne won
ket is II r head and it has sponsored
IAN afternoon frock which has IRE
clan blol Ese and a skirt that is an
points w eich hang Closely 70 inc uS
ure The model is exceptionally grace
full, and many consider it the high
water m ARK reached in exclusive fash
ions thi season.
Vionr ct was premier Tor DouceI
whose Clothes are invariably dlstln-
guiShed and suitable for that Grass OF
women who avoid eccentricity and
rely Vi Gn color and faDrlc Ior aver
sity in their costumes.
The smart women in Paris go to
Nionnt 4 and order several OF theSe
creme de chimes built alike, in black