Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1920-03-05
Frederic Haslkin's Letter
HAVANA STREETS.

two minutes literally anywhere in
Havana. They are along both sides
of the main streets in waiting lines.
They dart and circle about the
squares like minnows in clear
pool. And they are the hardest
jitneys on earth to dodge. The rea-
son for this is that traffic in Ha-
vana moves on principles which 1t
takes years to grasp. The Spanish
custom is for all sorts Of vehicles
to keep to the left side of the road,
and this custom still obtains IN
most Spanish-speaking countries.
In Havana it appears to have come
in conflict with the American idea
that one should travel on the right
hand side Of the street. On some
streets traffic keeps to the right
and on others it keeps to the left.
There must be some underlying
system, but it cannot be deduced
by observation. When it comes to
squares, all the traffic goes around
one way, cutting the. corners very
fine, causing the unwary pedestrian
to make many a sudden BACK
Jump. The jitneys frequently col
Tide with each other, but they sell
dom run down a pedestrian. A ma
tive desiring to cross crowded
street, proceeds to do so in 1els-
urely fashion, putting his safety
entirely in the hands Of the drivers
who exhibit great skill in missing
him.
A jitney in . Havana is not the
drab affair that it is in the United
States. Whatever a Cuban jitney
may lack, it is bound to have suit
Of highly ornamental seat covers,
usually of stamped leather In
bright green or buff or some mixed
pattern with bright nickel mount
iugs, A big brass horn is also
very fashionable. Some of the el-
fects are really gorgeous. If there
is single jitney in the city wear
ing its factory upholstery We nave
not seen it. :,
The jitpey service is really good,
for you can 60 almost anywhere IN
the city for 20 cents, and 80 cents
will take you even to outlying
points, while to get car you have
but to raise one finger. To find an
English-speaking jitney driver
however, is almost impossible.
Next to the jitney, the American
product which has made the most
complete conquest of Havana is
that ugliest Of all headgear. the
chip straw hat. In Havana you can
buy a real Panama hat for a very
low price, and there are other
native weaves pleasing in line and
easy on the head which can be
bought still cheaper. But for some
obscure reason the Cuban chooses
the hard straw with its milkpan
shape and its tendency to check the
circulation Of the blood and cause
premature badness. A large
crowd in Havana viewed from an
upstairs window looks like a river
Of fat straw hats. not one head in
a hundred wearing anything else.
Havana is a city which delights
the northern eye by reason Of its
brightness and cleanness COM
! pared with our own cities. White
and buff are the prevailing colors
of its buildings, with pale pinks
and blues and green's in touches
here and there. There are no sky
scrapers and all Of the large build
ings are highly ornate, with col
umns and capitols and balconies
and arched windows, and always
with a courtyard in the center
where palms grow and fountains
play. All Of this pleasing color is
untouched by SCOT or smoke and
bright in the glare of a tropical
sun, except along the business
streets which are so narrow that
they are shady all day long. From
these you emerge frequently upon
tropical squares full of palms and
| flowers.
Through this setting moves a
colorful indolent life of brightly
dressed women strolling, and of
men who gather on street corners,
sit in cafes slipping drinks and loll
on park benches. Havana has the
hum and chatter of intense life,
but not the clang and roar Of bust
ness which distinguishes our own
city. In the tropics life is held
dearer than money and time is
cheap.