The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-17

suit, paying the price for cut and fin
ish. The elaborate coat suit is at its
best on older women. 1t is the costume
for the dowager duchess. The slim
coat of homespun or duyetyne with its
narrow short skirt is the suit for the
young slim figure. The world of wom-
en- is divided between the two fash
ions.
The French suit, which has several
powerful American imitators, consists
Of frock made in two parts; a long
straight blouse with the soft straight
skirt attached to each other at the
hip line. The coat that half covers the
frock is of the skirt material and is
belted and furred and embroidered to
match the lavish ornamentation used
on the long blouse.
This Is an expensive costume. II 1t
Is well done. 1t is for the rich. If 1t Is
not well done. 1t should be avoided.
The American tailored as 1t is called,
has a heightened jacket and skirt that
shows definite tendency toward more
width at the hem. There are Jackets
with a godet flare at the hips. and flat
back and front. The newer coats drop
in straight line like a tunic to the
knees.
Attractive American Cloth.
The fabrics which are used to build
these suits are duvetyne and rough
woollen. English suiting and Irish home
spun and the amazingly attractive cloth
one gets from the North Carolina mills
are preferred by American women. A
tailor OF power is attempting to resur-
rect the fashion for small black and
white checked woollen and is sending out
smart suits in this material
The skirts that go with these coats
are simple. They are cut of wide ma
terial. they are unlined, they have slight
gathers at the hips and usually fanci-
full working out of a pocket slash In
front of each hip. There is no attempt
to bring back much fulness and on the
strictly tailored suits there Is no at
tempt whatever at ornamentation.
There are coats and skirts that are
slightly elaborated by a lavish design Of
stitchery which resembles q fine braid
ing. This Is not new. such ornamental
ton. but It Is In first fashion. Even the
most expensive houses do not hesitate
70 use It.
The blouse Is altogether ignored. The
shops show alluring models OF tea-tint-
ed lace blouses to go with elaborate coat
suits, but they are entirely unsuitable
for homespun coat and skirt or one of
duvetyne unless IL has taken to itself
airs of ceremony.
The tendeny OF the times Is to make
a coat suit as frock. That Is the rea-
son behind the obliteration of the
blouse. The average woman would in
sist upon some kind of a blouse. how
ever, with q coat suit, and there Is all
effort on the part OF the Paris houses
to bring back fine handmade ones of
Persian lawn and handkerchief linen.
These have high turnover collars under
which are passed wide ribbons with
picot edge.
No one exactly knows where the
overblouse will find place. II the
coat Is not to be lifted from the skirt
there will be no necessity for anything
more than a kind of corset cover worn
beneath It. II the one piece frock which |
Is cut In monastic fashion Is to rule |
there will be no division of the figure |
from shoulder to hem. 1t looks as
though Il would be coat frock and the |
osas pieoe frock.
New FrocIxs Like Monastfc Robes. |
There is definite feeling among |
those who study the source Of clothes |
that the pilgrimage to Mecca inspired |
the widely prevailing fashion for rough |
woollen gowns cut in two pieces on
straight lines with string girdle at
tho hips. long. faring sleeves The
pilgrims who were permitted to go to |
their Holy City In Arabia for the first |
time since the war broke wore these
duh brown worsted coverings and the |
Moroccans inspired France with their |
sharply designed embroidery done in |
dull glowing colors.
The carrying OF the sacred carpet |
inspired the new carpet embroidery |
which is shown on a number Of frocks |
and which Is done as well In America |
as In France. IL IL a powerful trend. |
Even the amateur who embroiders
should be aware Of It. One can draw n
design from any Mohammedan carpet
and be sure of hitting the fashion.
These frocks drop over the body |
through the opening at tho neck and
arc fastened down the front like
priests robe. The color Is gained en-
tirelv through the embroidery. Cocoa
brown. deep beige. rust and Moroccan
brick aA sometimes embroidered with
steel busssS which Lanvin brought into