The New York herald. [volume] (New York, N.Y.) 1920-1924, 1920-10-17

been brought to America and has caused
excited discussion. 1t has every stamp
of elegance, but In the hands of an anna
teur 1t is a pity of a failure.
There is a slight struggle going on be-
tween two sets OF designers as to the
accumulated moyen-age waistline and
the close basque-like blouse that Is
wrinkled about the figure and ends be-
tween the point of the hips and the nor
NAL waist. Several of the best Ameri-
can designers stress the latter fashion
and two Of the powerful Paris designers
insist upon II. The long waistline rules
in popular fashion. 1t is not a waist
line at all 1t Is merely line of de
markation at the hips between the
blouse and the skirt.
This line may vanish before Thanks
giving. The monastic robe may win. 1t
has no division but a string girdle wound
about the hips. The Egyptian fashion
OF accentuating the compression of the
hips by a broad colorful band of beads
or embroidery remains in fashion be-
cause 1t is peculiarly attractive on the
tall American figure.
Few II any Of the smart frocks have
very short sleeves. There IL a concerted
attempt to hide the arm and the long
sleeve will be in full swing by Novem-
her. It will accompany the longer skirt,
which Is bound to gain a following. At
present the three-quarter sleeve rules in
frocks as In coats.
Egypt Inspires the Evening Gowns
If northern Africa has inspired the
street frock one might say that Egypt
took the evening gown unto herself. CAL
lot went into the ancient court of Cairo
for her Inspiration. Her collection
shows an extraordinary similarity to the
pictured costumes of the Nile. Paillettes
are used In broad eccentric designs.
There Is often an absence OF waistline.
There are metal brocades that appear to
have been embroidered with golden
threads. There are strands of jetted
beads. There are huge ornaments on
the hips and an Egyptian exposure OF
the shoulder and arms. Long wisps Of
colored tulle swing downward from the
shoulder TO make a train.
1t takes a distinguished figure to wear
these gowns. One who Ia In the habit of
dressing carelessly must avoid them. II
Is easier to wear evening frocks from
the house of Cheruit even though the sill
houette is not so good. The American
designers are more apt to follow Cabot
than Cheruit as they have learned to
drape flexible material In long bias lines
and draw 1t upward to one shoulder and
to one hip. This type of evening gown
dominates.
There is another kind which is spon-
sored by Cheruit and which suits the
average American taste. II has a round
neckline which does not expose much
and the armholes droop over the arms
without an attempt at sleeves.
Whereas Callot used metal brocade Cor
her evening gowns, Cheruit used silk
Io,x all n
accepted by Americans for winter frocks.
Velvet was widely used IT was COM
oined with lace at the house OF Cheruit
and with gorgeous beaded and embroi-
dered ornaments from the house of CAL |
lot.
The white theatre frock of Spanish |
lace was advocated by Cheruit and crepe |
de Chine trimmed with dyed lace The |
top coats of this house were of heayy |
white material, fleecy as soapsuds, but |
having warmth. White was embroidered |
In black. and white furs were used az |
trimming
Hoop skirts have vanished with the |
French and American designers houses |
Ostrich plumes have gone along with |
them. There are certain designers who |
continue TO drape colored tulle In a |
swirling manner over q slim satin frock |
but the stiff circlettes have gone. There
is no buckram in any OF the evening
gowne.
There is an attempt to relnstate the
1870 fashions. II was natural that the |
death OF the ex-Empress OF the French
should have caused stir among those
who followed current events to get in
splration for clothes. There In a house
in Paris and one In New York which |
have thrown their strength toward 1870 |
evening frocks built Of white point |
d'esprit run with miles OF narrow blue |
ribbon. There IL the small black velvet |
bracelet with a huge fiat pink silk rose |
TO be worn on the wrist. This minor
fashion may be accepted by the debu-
tante. even though she refuses the wide
gathered skirt
For the woman with an average in
rome there are black lace froclSs com
bined with tulle and jet as in olden
lays. The original cost Is not slight,
but such clothes can be constantly worn
without attracting undue attention.
They are dateless. as the dreesmakers
say. The slips of these lace gowns are
light. and OF black satin. and tho soarfs
u