Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1920-05-02
BY ANNE RITrENHOUsE.

sharp line Of demarcation be-
tween the easy-going gown in
| tended for informal usage and the
rather ornate. coquettish one that wom-
en- choose for social affairs held under
the roof.
This absorbing subject offers strong
temptation to swing out Of the definite
path Of describing gowns into the broad
highway of discussion concerning the
usage that should govern gowns.
There Is much to be said concerning
the growing tendency. emphasized by
experience. to separate apparel into dis
tinct little groups at the beginning OF
each season.
X + 4
Careful women have done this since
they began to buy clothes. Careless
women. those who are temperamentally
cut, material and novelty, are apt to go
through the season with clothes that
are seldom used and a temper that 10
strained to the breaking point because
Of the anxiety occasioned by trying to
decide what to wear for each important
opportunity that offers itself.
In an interview with Nine. Paquin
one day in Paris she brought out the
interesting fact of a severe difference
between the French and American
method of buying clothes; as Nine.
Paquin is a woman Of the world as well
as an artist. her opinion was interest
ing because it embraced the psychology
that governed the two sets Of women.
She said that the American. even
when poor. bought more recklessly
than the French woman who was rich:
that she saw beauty in a gown and in
sisted upon constantly asking II 1t was
the newest style; she did not seem to
know exactly where and how she would
wear 1t. Its novelty. the fact that it
was French and the price were the
things that governed the purchase.
The French woman. continued Nine.
Paquin, bought a gown with as much
elaboration as though she were choos-
ing a piece Of antique furniture or an
Aubusson tapestry; her first statement
when she sought frock concerned the
occasion on which she was to wear it;
the French woman divided her clothes
into definite groups. even though she
could only buy three costumes. one Of
each kind.
She showed anxiety over the suit
ability Of the frock for the hours dur
ing which it was to be worn and tried
the color Of the material in the sun
light or electric light. according to the
time Of day it was to be in evidence. :.
1.-THE French woman has the activi-
ties Of her life scheduled and knows
how each year is to be divided" said
Nine. Paquin. land she approaches the
change Of the season with concentra-
ton on her clothes. These are never
bought in a haphazard fashion. She
puts the dressmaker to endless work
and consideration Of details before one
frock is decided on; she takes several
weeks to complete her seasonable ward
robe. and the milliner. the dressmaker
and tho corsetiere are called into con-
sultation."
Nine. Paquin was asked II this was
not annoying to those who served the
French woman and why should not the
French apparel makers prefer to serve
careless Americans.
+
1--WE approve Of the French method"
she said. ''The American. not knowing
exactly what she wants. nor why she
wants 1t, gets through her shopping
quickly. but often finds fault with 1t
afterward: she complains about her
gowns. their unsuitability to her life
and activities; feels they are unat-
tfactive. the color IL not becoming and
the cut and fashion Of the frock does
not blend happily with American life
when she attempts to wear the gown in
her own country.
things beforehand" continued the wom-
an who had studied women's minds
when they were buying clothes. IF the
Americans were moro discriminating in
the beginning and put the dressmaker
and milliner to greater effort to
please. and beyond all. II the American
would only bring to the purchase Of
clothes a well defined. definitely ex-
pressed idea Of what she wants, those
who work for her would be better
pleased.
one-third or one-fifth OF the gowns
bought by an American woman. In
these she makes no mistakes. She
would not think OF ordering half a
dozen gowns in a mornings shopping
for she would not have the vitality. the
shrewdness or the leisure to give to
the complete working out OF the de-
tails.
''The American woman who orders
recklessly does not want to give time
to consultation. and she Is somewhat
rebellious over fittings. She feels that
dressmakers should do everything after
she agrees to pay the price. whereas
the French woman will not permit the
dressmaker to do everything, and Is in
sistent upon several fittings. She brings
to the subject Of clothes rare taste and
Information and she proposes to see
that each hundred francs she spends
are returned to her in full value.
1.-THE result is that the French woman
can then dismiss her clothes from her
mind until summer changes into winter
or the other way around. She has left
no detail of each costume unfinished
Tho hat. wrap. veil, shoes and even
stockings are carefully chosen and as
sembled for each gown, and her mind
is free from turmoil and anxiety 30 that
she enjoys her clothes
The American. therefore. as re-
porter sees 1t. spends ten times the
amount Of money that is spent by the
French woman and rarely gets the re-
suit Why? She does not match the
accessories to the gown. She pays a
high price for frock. then picks UP a
hat with the hope that 1t will serve
every gown and suit she owns. and 1t