davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

points of th" squares are turned back and buttoned fn envelope effect.
 Considerable care was expended on the lining of this wrap, which is ot beautiful brown and yellow brocaded silk, with part of the brocaded design embroidered in yellow threads. The buttons were selected with quite as much attention as was given to the lining-an example of the thought giv- en to every detail in the clothes of to- day. They are of gray galalith to blend with the soft coloring of the fur, and are raar-sharped, carved In beau tiful design.
 Another gray, and caracul wrap, be ing shown among the newest models, IS made in the form of straight cape, but has bands of the fur placed around the waistline to give the effect of two tiers. There is a deep hang ing kolinsky collar which really forms a little cape in itself
 Hudson Seal Is Favored.
 Hudson. seal is as popular as ever for general wear. There is much to recommend it. It is durable and mex pensiye in comparison with many of the other furs as we'll as becoming.
 A smartly tailored fur coat devel- eped in Hudson seal has big cord
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
FASHIONS IN BRIEF

Fall millinery is distinctly feath- cred.
 Wood color is a fayorite fall shade.
 The three-piece costume will be a favOrite.
 Paris uses gay and novel fabrics for wraps.
 Among the very newest dressy suits now being brought out, leaning to cape coats is in evidence.
 Couture, golden brown autumn leaf which has a hint of red, rust and topaz, which resembles the stone of that name, are all attractive fall shades.
 Fine white lawn caps are worn by babies the year through, inner Things of padded silk or soft wool being sup piled for the protection of the head during the cold months.
 There are many models for evening wear composed of white and black vel vet, and among these Is a present fancy for appliqueingl figures of the black velvet to the snowy background
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
Two-in-one and Three-in-One Gar. ments Brought Forward by
 Process of Elimination.

The modern process of elimination has brought about the two-in-one gar ment and the three-in-One piece de- signed to make one trifle of linen, crepe de chine or chiffon do service for several pieces.
 There is. for instance. the knicker of satin attached to fitted bodice like camisole, from which hangs in turn a deep founce of lace in lieu of the knee petticoat.
 A second model has the neither sec ton shaped like chemise envelope. but much wider, the sides slashed and trimmed with fiounce of fine lace.
 At the top the material is gathered Into deep self-band threaded with wide violet satin ribbon. the band f1ounced at the upper edge and at tached to two wide bretelles of lace and chiffon-a wonderful model for wear with the evening gown. since the front and back of the upper part are free from fabric
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04


 New WOOL nose 10 wear wIIn ox- lords this winter come in brown or green heather mixtures, with red silk clocks.
 A useful veil for all seasons is made of paIest rose tulle, with pin points of black chenille.
 With black shoes. or slippers for day" time are worn quite conservative stockings of fine sheer silk in tete de negre or taupe.
 The best suit purchase and one that will almost certainly give the longest service is the perfectly plain tailored model, whether of plain color or plaid fabric.
 The hat of medium size but with a somewhat higher crown and brim dropping slightly, trimmed in a sim pie fashion and made of fabric which harmonizes with the dress or suit, will be great favorite of the season.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
MAY MAKE YOUR OWN SCARF
Accessory Is Worn Now as 1t Has Not Been for Many Seasons
 Past

: We have gone back to the day of the scarf. At least. we are living in day of scarfs, call it going backward or forward, as you like. The scarf is worn now as it has-not been for many seasons.a
 It is quite possible to make many of the lovely scarfs yourself. To be- gin with. there are serviceable 1scarfs of tricotine. This fabric comes woven in tubular fashion, and one buys a yard and half or two yards of it, according to the desired length of the scarf, turns under the ends, tuck ing fringe of a matching color in them and fastening them together, or else fastening the raw edges under and then tying the ends of the scarf with homemade fringe, made with heavy silk floss matching the color of the scarf
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

kolinsky.
 gir1le, which pinches it lin tightly at the waistline. The cuff lbantis, siseul- der collar and skirt hem show tfse fur worked in bands.
 For those who do not Care for the all-black coat there is Hudson seal combined with other fur. A tightly shoulder cape collar and cuff bands of kolinsky Is another model that is shown
 The fur redingote is seen in varie- ty of forms and is being made in g great many combinations of furs. Among the more extravagant coats are lovely redingotes developed in un born lamb, trimmed with sable. They are in fitted lines with the exception that the hips flare slightly just where the pocket openings fall.
 Tn the choice of skins we have con- siderable latitude Almost every sort of fur is used for the handsomest of wraps. It is several seasons since there has been such a lavish use of moleskin in coats. There are wraps of Siberian squirrel trimmed with skunk-a durable old-fashioned fur, which has been brought into the lime light again both as a trimming and for small furs. There are coats of caracul, beaver. nutria-in fact, all most every fur Is used.
 Among the almost priceless coats are those of chinchilla and Russian To ic, mi irfy- r,ft thea most popular of this winters furs. In addition to being fashionable it is durable-a most desirable quality con- sidering the present prices of furs. The placing of the skins appears to be a very important matter, for in this way new and unusual effects are ob- tained. If the wrap is not made in tiers the skins frequently are placed. to give the effect of tiers.
 Wrap Like Travelling Coat.
 A wrap created by one of our Amer ican designers is of eastern mink in straight cape effect. with two bands the effect of three capes graduating in size, the collar forming the first. The skins are arranged horizontally on either side of the front and around the collar to make trimming band. There are no sleeves, merely slits through which the arms pass. It is lined with a beautiful black and gold brocaded silk.
 Another mink wrap, in one-piece cape effect, has the skins placed to give the effect of stripes running around both in the collar and body portion. Trimming bands of the fur are on either side of the front and hang in wide loops, which are ar ranged at the waistline so that they may be used as a huff.
 Like an old-time English travelling coat, with little shoulder capes form Ing the sleeves, is another mink wrap. The body is in cape form, with ten- inch trimming border achieved by placing the skins diagonally. On this model the collar is really small, not more than six inches wide in the back and becoming gradually narrower in the front until it disappears at the waistline.
 Among the evening wraps are some new and beautiful models of ermine. A particularly interesting one shows straight cape of the fur hanging all most to the waistline i'll the, form of a deep yoke, with choker collar.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

cloth with SOIL WOOL Uaen lead. This is going to be season of rough cloth. have seen very few fine serges, unless for tunic dresses; a rough diagonal serge is in favor with the Paris tailors and also a very warm and beautiful cloth which looks like camel's hair tissue, but has a wool back. Duvetyn is more fashionable than ever and I have seen some prac- tical wraps made of coarse ratine and lined with lowered silk.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
Fresh Air and Exercise.

Don't depend on the transplanting of monkey glands to keep the body young, advises the United States pub- lie health service. In the efirst place there are not enough monkeys to go around and in the second place fresh air and outdoor exercise are safer and surer.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
BRIEF FASHION NOTES

The twice around Egyptian girdle should be worn with Eton suits.
 Taffeta is considered to have abund ant possibilities for evening wear.
 As regards both day frocks, coats and capes, the high-standing collar is essential.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

coats are made in tiers, one falling over the other. These do not ripple, but wrap or drape gracefully about the wearer.
 All of the new mantles have very flat hanging back, which gives a square appearance to the figure, although the front often crosses in diagonal line and wr.'ps the figure snugly. This is just the difference between the coats of last winter and those of 1910-1921 that indefinable something which makes all the difference between be- ing in the fashion or out of fashion.
 Caracul is fur well suited to these square hanging designs. A lovely new wrap of natural caracul made in this way has deep collar and straight band of fur around the bottom to form a trimming. There are no sleeves. the arms coming through siits at the sides. At the armholes the paad T1,a r af<~ pra-@ rasa bnsss r,a~Ar
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

Made of all wool navy blue serge, trimmed with silk hercules braid. The dress is doubIy serviceable because of it's bloomer effect, which is great pet ticoat saver.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

Read The Labor Press-Labor's paper.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

9atronize THE LABOR PREss advertisers.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04
WATCHEs

The Bijou Jewellers, The Store of Quality, g Church St. Samuel H. Kirby & Sons, Inc- 82z Chapel St.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

Read The Labor Pres=-1.-hor's paper.
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

WALL EAfEh H. M. Hodges & Bro., 2 stores. o52 Chapel St, and 2oo-2o2 York St New Haven Wall Paper CO, B Crown
The Connecticut labor press., 1920-12-04

The Edison Shop, The Pardee-Ellen-
 berger Co.. Props. o64 Chapel St. Roy J. Ward, 176 Temple St.
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
Smoking Among British Women
Shows Astonishing Increase
Even Pipes Are Being Used by Some of Feminine
Tobacco Devotees, as They Discover Briar Great
ly Reduces the Temptation to Inhale the Fumes

bad manners rather than increase in
the smoking habit, and the indulgence
of soldiers during the war in smok-
ing in non-smoking compartments
something more to be regretted than
welcomed. every authentic apologist
for tobacco-Kingsley, Calverley, Ste
venson-has stressed the soothing and
consoling influence of his indulgence"
says "The Guardian" "Where are
it's present manifestations? The Chan
cellor of the Exchequer says we all
smoke, and we will smoke more; the
champions of tobacco proclaim it as
the sovereign remedy against Spleen
and yet the nations at large rage as
furlously as the heathen Somebody's
theory wants overhauling"
Habit Grows Among Women
But no matter how people bemoan
the situation, it exists in England, and
the Chancellor stated an indisputable
truth when he noted the astonishing
increase in smoking. Nowhere can
you go without seeing smoking "Smo'l.
ing" said London tobacco manufac-
turer," in "The Globe" ais not only
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
Murphy Isn't Boss,
Miss Marbury Says

Charles Francis Murphy isn't
boss Of the state Democrats at
all. Elisabeth Marbury said so
yesterday at a meeting of the
Women's Democratic Committee
of One Thousand at the Waldorf
Astoria. Miss Marbury had just
returned from the convention of
Democratic delegates at Albany,
and was incensed at the reports
that the convention was con-
trolled by Tammany Hall.
Ode we look like people who
had been steam rollered?" she de-
manded. II have heard many
things about Boss Murphy, and
| have come to believe that he
must be Christian Scientist, for
if he controls the Democratic
party he does it by absent treat
ment. | have never been ap-
preached by him, and l never
saw convention more genuinely
free than the one at Albany yes
terday"
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09

"Yes,' he said, "there arc ,.,-
good homes and women Of lessa.Ie ssuIes q;
who smoke pipes. For one in 81 i. hgSriss giss
End l make up a special n,ixts" we "ssl
ilght, fine tobacco, more lika n;se q
tobacco than any other. Sbs ssafes's
this in a beautiful meerschszsfno che SMOKE,
specially made for her. /. 'am ;.m pps
dainty and not offensive looli,s Snsll.
THE reason this laGy smnzos
is that she found she conId ~. pips
cigarettes without inhaling. NV snoks
did want TO smoke. So now ss saa shs
the smoke throuhg a pipe ana she he .easea
tation to inhale is reduced > 'ue temp.
On all hands every tonacc,
facturer admits that smoEinn manu-
women may be heavy and naS among
creasing as they say, but tbs' " In
VINO smoke to any extent are tho s.nsa
light hearted, the more frivolnr.m more
more blase among women. MAJ m NE
ago 1T was thought by the med;cs.jy jysat' m
fession that smoking was nnora 'G' s.p pro-
full to men than to women. "'f'r-
Now the medical protess.or
that rare ability and braverv WIN
clare the truth which the nross.as ~ as-
has always shown, even Il il rssIo0 rasI0
the departure from a recognized "esa .oa.
OF the medical faith. declare that go -
ing is more harmful to women tba. v',,Oa :.
men. SO women can take Their 1,; cSn;.. y
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
Rain Bars Police Parade
As 5000 Stand i'm Line
Annual Procession Is Postponed
by Mayor After Men Are
Drencaed for Two Hours

More than 5000 policemen stood in
the rain for two hours at Bowling
Green yesterday morning waiting for
New Iork's annual police parade to
get under way. But at 1890 O'Clock
Mayor Hylan announced that because
of the weather the parade was post
poned until next Saturday morning
The news was conveyed to Bowling
Green and the thousands of drenched
policemen hurried to dry places
The postponement Ct the parade did
not affect the dinners scheduled for
last night. The police band dined at
Reisenweber's. Other dinners were
held by members of the various inspec-
tion districts.
Secretary OF State Hugo, Mayor Hy-
Ian and Commissioner Enright were
the principal guests at the bands din
ner. Walter Rogers, band leader, was
presented with a watch and fob. Others
who attended included f. H. La Guar
di2, r. A. C. Smith, Chief Inspector
John DAILY and Deputy Police Commits
sioner Frederick A. Wallis
Practically the same guests attended
the dinner of the Traffic Squad at tie
Waldorf. More than l 900 men Of the
squad were present.
Memorial services for the late 'JohA
McCullagh, first Chief of Police Of
greater New York, who died in 1917,
were held yesterday, when the body of
the former chief was reinterred in
Woodlawn Cemetery.
Major General Leonard Wood, who
delivered the eulogy. told of the splen-
did services performed by Mr. McCul-
legh in organizing the police force of
Havana in 1898, and of the excellent
administrative work he did in New
York. Job L. Hedges paid tribute to
Mr. McCullagh as organizer of "tne
finest body of men in the word-the
New York police force"
X. A. c. Smith presided at the burial
ceremony. The invocation was by the
Rev. Robert Bruce Clark and benedic-
tion by Chaplain John A. Wade, of the
Police Department. The services were
conducted under the direction of the
John McCullagh Memorial Association,
of which Richard +. Enright, Police
Commissioner, is honorary president.
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
Second Princeton Man
Joins Interstate Board
Prof. Henry Jones Ford Follows
Prof. Winthrop NJ. Daniels to
Commerce Commission

PRINCETON, May 8.-Henry Jones
Ford who has been nominated by Pres
ident Wilson as a member Of the Inter
state Commerce Commission, is the sec
ond Princeton professor who has been
called to serve on that board by the
present Administration. as Winthrop
More Daniels, one Of the present mem
bers of the commission also held
chair In the department OF history
and politics at Old Nassau.
Professor Ford was born in Balti-
more in 1851 and was graduated from
the Baltimore City College in 1868. He
is essentially a newspaper man despite
his connection with Princeton, having
been at various times editorial writer
on "The Baltimore American" and later
managing editor of that paper, editor
of "The Baltimore Sum-" editorial
writer for ''The New York Sun" and
managing editor and editor of "The
Pittsburgh Chronicle Telegraph" and
"The Pittsburgh ommercial Gazette. ,
He was called upon by President
Wilson in 1912 to act as Banking and
Insurance Commissioner Of New
Jersey, in which position he reorgan-
lied the entire office. Later he was
sent to conduct an investigation in
the Philippines and submitted re-
port suggesting a complete change of
government His recommendation
we're accepted and put into effect.
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
From The Trtbune's European Bureau

LONDON, April 27.-The Chancellor
Of the Exchequer in his recent budget
speech noted an astonishing increase"
in smoking. This has set people ser-
ously inquiring about the matter. Most
Of the large tobacco manufacturers,
according to an interview in '"Tbc
Globe" blame the women for this
state Of affairs. The gist of the OBJ
servations of this recent article pur.
ports to prove that the astonishing
increase is among women, that even
pipes are now used by the feminine
devotees, and by way Of extenuating
circum stances states that the women
learned the habit during the war Also
that men acquired greater smoking
habits during the war.
"The Manchester Guardian" edito-
rializes this morning on "The Trium-
phant Smoker" After stating that
the railways have announced many
more smoking compartments for the
spring traveller, it attributes this to
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
Third Party Program
Fails to Lure Labor
Federation Declares Movement
to Put Independent Ticket
i'm Field Is SuueIched
IRON, The Tribune's Washington Bureou

From The Tribune's Washington Bureou
WASHINGTON, May 8.-Independcnt
labor tickets will not be put in the
field in the coming campaign, the Ma
tional Nonpartisan Political Campaign
Commission of the American Federation
Of Labor declared to-day. 1t an
nounced that kilograms received at
w ashington headquarters indicated ad-
vocatcs Of the proposed labor party had
been unsuccessful IN several localities
at is clear that the labor party adj
vocates viii not be a figure in the cam
paign," the federation says. "The judg-
ment Of the workers is overwhelm mingly
In support Of the non-partisan political
campaign conducted by the American
Federation of Labor. Reports from
every section Of the country prove this
conclusively."
The decline Of the labor party idea
is shown in the following telegram re-
ceiVed by the federation from the Col
orado State Federation of Labor:
"COnvention held by Workers. Non
partisan League in Denver for the pur-
pose Of Independent political action
voted by large majority against
third party ticket. American Fedora
ton of Labor advocates in majority"
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09

and the United States, and when the
nice points of etiquette have been ar.
ranged we may expect announcement
that Canadian mission has been ap-
pointed to Washington"
The editor of "The Ottawa Journal
quotes the following synopsis, sent out
from Washington, as to the scope and
authority of the proposed new official
"He will, in fact, be vice -ambassa
dor. In the absence of the ambassador
from Washington or from the United
States, the Canadian Minister Plenl-
potentiary will function as acting am
bassador. While the ambassador is
here the Canadian Minister and his
staff will be part and parcel of the
British Embassy, though, of course, al
ways forming a separate Canadian divi-
sion thereof.
"Thus Canadian affairs so far as the
United States government is concerned
will continue to be transacted in Wash
ington through the British Embassy
But the actual effect of the new plan
will be that they will be handled and
conducted, as has not been the case
hitherto, by actual Canadians directly
deriving their authority and instruc-
tions from the Dominion government
at Ottawa"
Referring to the above, "The Jour
nal" adds: "This looks like very
satisfactory and easily workable ar
langement. If it had been in operatc y
before there would have been avoided
many vexatious delays and annoying
troubles that have been due to the fact
that Canada has had no direct repre-
sentation at'the capital of its nearest
and most important neighbor. A part
of the plan ought to provide for an ad-
vancement in the status of the United
States representative in Ottawa"
New-York tribune., 1920-05-09
DIR. Eliot Assails
Methods i'm Use
AT West Point
Military Academy Good
Example of What Ed
ucatiOnal Institution
Should Not Be, He Says

| BOSTON, May S.--Dr. Charles W
Eliot, president emeritus of Harvard
University. in a letter to Brigadier
General John W. Ruckman, commander
of the North Atlantic Coast Artillery
District, made public o-day, criticizes
the United States Military Academy at
West Point for it's limited curriculum
inexperienced teaching staff and ill
prepared student body. He asserts that
in the war the majority Of West Point
graduates followed, with mischievous
results, the red tape methods they had
learned in peace times.
Dr. Eliot's letter was in reply to
General Ruckman's inquiry as to the
accuracy of report of a speech DR..
Eliot had made before the Harvard
Teachers Association, in which the
President was quoted as saying:
81 hope we shall never take. our eX-
ample for public school administration
from West Point. 1t is good example
of just what an educational institution
should not be- This was shown by the
in the war;
DR.. Eliot replied to General Ruckman
that this quotation, while not in his
exact words, was substantially correct.
He continued:
"In my opinion, no American school
or college intended for youths of be-
tween eighteen and twenty-five years of
age should accept such i'll prepared ma
terial as West Point accepts"
Breeds Very Bad Practice
+ No school or college, DR.. Eliot de-
clared, should have q completely pre-
scribed curriculum or have its teach
ing done almost exclusively by recent
graduates Of the same school or col
lege who are not teachers and who
serve for short terms.
"West Point, so far as its teachers
are concerned the letter continues,
"breeds in-and-in, a very bad practice
for any educational institution.
"The graduates of West Point dur
ing the World War, both in the field
and in business office, did not escape
with few exceptions from the meth
DDS which they had been taught and
drilled in during peace The methods
Of fighting were in the main new, and
the methods Of supply and accounting
ought to have been new.
Red Tape Methods Mischievous
"The red-tape methods prescribed to
the American regular army in peace
times and the acquired habit among
American regular army officers OF
passing the buck were very mischie
vous all through the actual fighting,
and remain serious impediment to the
efficiency Of the War Department to
this day.
DR.. Eliot said he did not agree with
General Ruckman that if the state
ments he had made before the Teach
ers' Association were correct "the
Military Academy ought to be abol-
ished," but that he did think it ought
to be changed.