Evening star., 1920-03-14

this early In the season. Eiyst and
chiefly: A plentiful play Of oolered
crystal embrUidery, tfSe kind thst II
translucent and rpark,es lilse SNOW wl,sn
1t falls through sunlight or a half-fadsa
rainbow over tho ocean. UneiV are q
few freclss so extreme In this feshioning
that they could claim kinship to the
ono worn by Nine Aida In '.Akar0ul."
Another dominant feature h the hip
Eirdle. wide. sinuous and glitteriny, snd
the slim, straight limo between the
shoulders and hips which dlisregards the
normal waist line The long clingi1g
skirt is also part OF the scheme, sps
that is definitely longer than the nOunced
and bunchcd-up skirt which has found
favor in the eyes of the public for .
year. There is 4 significant point also
IN the sleeves, which actually coNsr tho
arms to the wrists In some froclss: tho
bare arm with the V.shaped opening be-
meath it to the waist 10 threatened With
extinction. 1t was Grecian and we arc
not to be Grecian.
As a concrete example here is q gown
of the new type; gray tulie over silver
clusters Of opalesoent embroidery Done
with faceted crystals and what No onea
called fishcales; the decolletase Of Ahe
bodice not extending more than ave
inches from the base Of neck; the full
sleeves covering part OF ths hand aod
wrapping themselves around tn arm
between shoulder ana wrist shuwIax
splashes OF cleaning crystals from sl-
bow to wrist.
The lining to the bodice. built Of ~
eral layers of tulle and chi1on. doss not
extend but half way up the Agu,v and
the upper part Of tulle. arranged in two
layers. is so plastered down on the Skin
that it gives the semblance OF Nesh,
softened. veiled, made artistic. Tnre
Is a truly gorgeous Eirile OF tho Spar-
king beading about the hips from which
drops q swathing skirt that trails on
the floor at the back but II Iatl,er Aa.ort
in front and at sides. The stucAiaxs
that go with the frock aro 0palsscenr
and the brocade heoled sandals are
jeweled.
Such are the component party o1 4
modern Babylonian evening gown. The
details differ in each TIVE frucan. I'm
decbtedly the fashion viii have xruw-
Ing influence as tte season progresues,
losing, probably. its initial direction, but
not losing in momentum.
This idea of splashing translucent
beads and glittering scales on closisss
may have preoetled or followed IT,
Asiatic evening frock. 1T was spruug On
Paris in February. which ssems to move
that it followed Callots attempt to cre-
ate Byzantium atmosphere earlier IN
the season.
The introduction Of jeweled Eaftors
with brilliant frocks was the first strong
originality that emphasized the fashion.
After that came the exhibition by dress
makers of serge tricot and taffeta frocks
heavily garnished with sparkling hits Of
crystals. Velvet basques appeared with
1lickering lines of these glass bits, in d.
sign, running down the front and edE-
ing the sleeves. Embroidery In silken
floss well-nigh disappeared before Feb
ruary arrived although stitchery, espe-
cially in lattice work design and done in
cotton threads, will continue to rule In
formal gowns and hats
1t is not quite according to our ideas
of fitness that a colored cloth frock
should bear on its surface a mass of
colored beads and giittering fish scales,
but no doubt we will accept it. after
argument. as recently we accepted the
use of padded silk roses on dark blue
frocks. and later a light design of Jet
sequins.
Mother-of-pearl has been quickly
caught up into the whirlwind of this
new fashion as 1t fits into the scheme
of things with startling adaptability. 1t
has exactly the right opalescent tones
1t suggests all the fairy tale lore Of our
childhood. sparkling tales of Arabia
and Persia
That the emphasis will be laid on the
hips there is small doubt in the minds
Of the dressmakers of spring clothes.
They see In the evening gowns that this
fashion has sufficiently vital force to
spread itself to all types of costumes
The lowered waist line is expected to
rule. 1t is an easy way to disguise the
thickness OF the modern waist and 1t Is
a definite reversal of the Victorian Sec
ond empire or Louis XVIII silhouette,
whichever you choose to call 1t. Such
a change is what dressmakers ardently