Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1920-09-19
(UART|ER LATIN OF
|AR|S UNDERGOING
|HANGES WITH Time
friends of Former Years
No Longer Inhabit
Famous Section.
PYSTERING BOHEMIANS OF
OTHER DAYS RARELY SEEN
mixing of Pianos, Ringing of
Cracked Chimes of Luxem-
burg Heard at Night.
CHARLES HENRY MELTXI:R.
ecial Correspondent. Cross-AtInn-
tic Service

CrOHN-h fInn-
tic Service.
'ARIS. Sept. lS-IIow many. be-
T. Robert Louis Stevenson. had
led tand sighed. perhaps. though
unhappiy). as they exclaimed
the ironic stars above, Il, too, have
ID in Already"
~ Already was once the "ouar.ler
IN. And now. for few weeks. I
re returned to II. Time has turned
kward In It's flight for me. as,
Er years OF wandering through the
rid. stroll at case by day and
nj on the "Boul' Niche" and
er by the books>aIls OF the Odcon.
rct those who Will swank at the
ma or Ritz. To me students
9ins near tho Luxembourg means
re. much more. than luxury and
w. +, seems the same dejiEh,fui
iarter that ! knew when-bu, no
tier when-I attended lectures at
oid Sorbonnc. Tho faces | once
nave gone forever. The friends
whom forcsn;hered in my
a r 10 and pSnE ;he erect me at: tho
e grown grey. Some have passed
10 inc mysterious aftcr!and. The
Nurcc" and the .VoIta!rc" are still
c. however. the "Eoul' Niche" has
greatly changed; and, at the
,n IN the Garden OF the Lux
Ing poets SIN dream dreams.
have come back TO tho Aea- naun,s
long ago. though. at time when
inc students who can get away
PC le!t the Quarter" The n.o-
whom l pass are either children
pr middle age or old. But now and
n. especially at the Fountain OF
re 90 Meuicis. ! see young faces.
mere arc foreigners, scores upon
res or them. In all the restaurants.
many OF them seem to be Amer.
or EnSlishncn. For, as in tho
ted States and Canada. the nes.
lhists one meets are largely drawn
-, cnnuihaviah lands and the Near
81 ana Italy. Theirs Is Shrink :
3 also. OF young South Americans.
Ihenp Bohcmians Arc Rare.
ne noisy. registering. rather cheap
mem MS of my day are rare.
inns ~ True. not only OF tho
~ Quarter. but even more true
OF the Montparnasse diTrirt
TEL me at Montparnasse thai
tnericans who used to play al
therc: Just before the war. have
replaced In great measure bv
serious lads. Their headquar-
now tho ste. Cccile." The Sr,n :
a'lans patronize the Cafe Amapnt
OFTEN they all mingle ei,her !, !;
AVenue's' Just beside the care de
naSsc. or At the restaurant
sn,, pears IN" heroic name OF Du
night, rs sit writing IN m
IN. l hear faint echoes OF nnT,
g and tinkling pianos. The
mas or QuarrelsoDe taxi drivers
their customers annoy my ear.
IN me silence which succeeds.
aeaf inc cracked chimes OF III.
coming Luxembourg, and thinE
horror OF the Satanist, dc C;onr>
nj. and his Antichrist, or or those
ta OF long, vanished earlier
tut lent inspiration. 'u"u-
nee, toward midnight, woman.s
III voice disturbed the silence With
appeai for help. a cry OF "a i'as.
SIR: Then silence. 4 mere brawl
aohot: l nope SO. But II is said
the Apachcs" have gone 10 work
IN. and several papers are now
hins campaign against the no
uepaa ument. 1t might be we'll
Trey would give n-sfctie space from
b no s,,hs to the untrammeiled
|oush the Paris streets and rob
shamelessly. In other DAYS tSn
lsians were protected by the police
nus; The verdict in the case OF
he ,ra, rare was almost rendered
different. The war has NOT ;,S
we'd them in host OF WAYS Thnso
Iaiiians do much as they pIease,
o.ner DAY one tried TO shoot q
'1 caucbt ny good luck he. for once.
M the driver near the Bots. He
been dead some hours. nc
ne happier md Spend Less.
u., by ana large. I cannot grum-
stickins closes to Those INC s., who insIs,
as no doubt pay dearly for what
would call the joy Of beinr f"J
sarlsh restaurants and cafes ira nc
foreisners; II they would do ns
looms 'a at Mo t1n Quarter. and look
ne. they would be happy and spenS
can enjoy life (with n tbaatar
and them In these paris ror
~ francs day. Which means
doimes. or very little over. For
not a bath. That costs an extra
lie. In New York or in Montrc.i
tt get here would cost me quite
hs dollars. And not for eighty
L una the charm and beauty
here are drawbacks. am yor
al day long by the refusals Of
conductors and tho s:orekeepers
Eiys me change. The chances are
M l Try TO pay for shirt with
Ill or. say. hundred francs or
3, I shall be treated with What
ms IKE gross discourtesy. Small
age Is very rare Just now in paria
the custom. to replace the usual
pr Pr and the sous by postage stamps.
IN this city. Either the
ee.es nave all run out or some
er game Is being played by the
'ccomists. You may walk miles
never md single packet NJ
favorite smokes. Yet. If vou
your Paris. you can get most
igs. Except the one thing vo,,
hoDed. of course, to find. Tbo
agreeabie suavity and politeness
pre- war days.
Rents Are High.
ents? They are higher than tbav
e. But 1t is possible 10 secmro
unfurnished fiat. three rooms and
D.. In various districts for ahomt
Thousand francs. Translate tbat
United States or Canadian terms
1t spell about 5000. What n
spell to Frenchmen I don't Lnow
Ioes, however, seem to meanWto
Fes-twice the pre-war rents IL
Fies have doubled--well and GOO,
OF, why. 1t Is hard on the Pari.
many OF tho restaurants in the
ftsr. ] dine quite handsomely for
sig francs. The "CloserIc des
b., dear to poets, will do you very
indeed for that small outlay.
no BRIEF for any Paris rcsta,h-
P. But: I assure you that Ameri-
ana canadians. who como with