The herald. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1905-1953, 1920-06-10

tea gown was OF black chiffon velvet
and was quite untrimmed, but the
long. straight draping was most eff
fective.
Another model Of the long draped
type is of crushed velvet, dyed in
coral and orange-a remarkably strik-
ing combination. The effect is OBJ
tanned in this way: water dye and
an Oil dye are put into one vessel.
The fabric is then dipped into this,
and as the water and oil will not
mix, the cloth comes out in two tones.
The sleeves, which are long and tight,
wrinkling on the arm from the elbow
to the wrist, are made In three sec
lions connected by cording, which goes
in rows about the arm. Weights start
at the bottom of the sleeve and con-
tinue all the way up II and down the
side seams Of the gown to hold the
drapery OF the sleeve in place.
Elaborate Trimming Used.
The negligee is one article of dress
in which we may allow ourselves
much latitude in the matter of Orna-
mentation, for while some of these
handsome gowns have no trimming,
others are very deliberately trimmed.
One Of velvet, made on exactly the
same lines as the one just described,
is lavishly covered with Chinese stem
Gil work. Another Is trimmed with
large eyelets carrying out design.
These, instead Of being worked with
threads like the English eyelet en-
broidery. are bound with different COL
ored silks. Still another, of black
chiffon velvet, has batik work in gold.
All of these robes slip on over the
head.
In no dress can art be expressed
In quite the same manner as In the
tea gown, and women are continually
demanding not only greater beauty OF
design, but of colorings In them. This
has brought about some very interest
ing methods Of hand dyeing to obtain
unusual color effects. Both velvets
and silks are dyed by dipping a por-
ton of the material into the desired
color and wringing 1t tightly with the
hands. The next section of the cloth
is then dipped into another shade and
wrung in the same manner, and SO
on to the end of the piece. The fabric
Is then hung up so that the dyes run
into each other, making wonderful
shades that vie with the colors of the
rainbow. The efforts of those who dc
this work are conferred on obtaining
uncommon colors. This they DC
through the study Of lovely old pot
teries and other pieces of art, espe
cially Persian and Indian things
Bronze shades are among the ia
yorites, and some lovely velvets arr
done in this tone.
Velvet Makes Stately Tea Gown.
A stately type of tea tOwn is of oil
blue velvet, combined with chiffon. l
is very much embroidered, the chiffol
being practically covered with a won
derful design of flowers. ducks ant
dragons. Many mellow colors OF sill
blend in this embroidery, although
| nrSt glance SOlu anu "PpN"A
predominant. The embroidery aroun
the neck and sleeves is a cross-stitc
of gold and silver threads. The meth
cd of putting this garment togethe
is rather intricate, although the line
appear simple.
In contrast to these stately robe
there is the -pajama negligee emana
ing from the dress in which the wome
of China drink tea. China, howeve
furnishes only the basic idea for thes
dresses.
The pajama negligee is made
bright colored velvets and silks, tn
trousers tying about the ankles wit
ribbons of silver and gold. While II
, splendid tea gowns previously d
scribed are topped by a headdres
these gay little Chinese costumes al
accompanied by jaunty caps and sii
, pers that match them. Many IF II
, cans are small, round affairs W.