The Sun and the New York herald., 1920-09-12
No Radical Change.

enect OF American TASTE anu SelcCllon'
No Radical Change.
What II all amounts 10 IL this: At
least for the present tho we'll dressed
woman here will accept no radical
change In silhouette. We have refused
Eubbornly to give up our straight,
slender figures. We will have none OF
me bouffant hips, and we are not at all
Interested In bustles II is this desir"
10 be slender, with the slendeguCss OF
q youth, that keeps thwartlne any
tendency In the new fashions for n
npped In walstline. We know we can
rot have twenty inch belt without
making our hips look wider and we
know that the slender hip gives the
youthful impression.
skirt lengths have been much dis
russcd But after all II Is simpl,
matter. We were slow In taking up tha
short French skirt and now that We
have adopted II we like IT, like II too
we'll to give II up Immediately. This
the dressmakers here know. So al
lhopgh they realize that the longer skirt
Is bound to come as part OF the length
eNed line, they also know that the
American woman will not accept a sud.
den lengthening. The short sklrted
'rocls that came over from Paris two
Or three years ago had to be built
jown before many American women
would wear them Now as frocks come
over from the collections OF the houses
featuring the extremely long skirts, II
is quite obvious that they will have to
te shortened slightly before we will like
Nem. So for the most part skirts re-
main about where they were, with the
exception OF some OF the evening gowns
Another thing the dressmakers know
here is that the very long sleeve Is
.0mlng. but nj this time they know
hat the shorter sleeve looks sm9"ter
80 a gown that four or five mOnths
lencc they might make with Il long
sleeve they now present with slaivc
terminating at or above the elbow.
To be sure, the greater part OF au-
'lnn purchases have yet to be made.
hut the clever dressmakers and le-
sIgners needs must be something of "A
.sychologIst. 1t is their business to
know which way the woman who has
much money TO spend on clothes jumps
before she jumps and they have all
agreed, apparently. that she isn't going
10 jump very far. She likes The linz.
the silhouette, the general :ole OF ler
clothes we'll enough as they are, They
are comfortable and becoming. She viii
seek novelty more in detail. Tho ncy'
things will be distinguished, from the
I'D by the mode OF adornncnt lavish
tmbrolderies for one thing---rarh ir than
because Of any radical change in Inc,
The Spanish influence.
Keenly as we watch the incoming of
French fashions there are many OF the
best houses here that would lead you
to believe in their complete indopen-
dence OF French inspiration. One Of the
foremost OF these New York establish
ments Is working along lines Of Spanish
suggestion that seem to be especially
well adapted TO the demands Of Ameri-
can taste. The Spanish note Is coming
out persistently In the evening clothes
by this house-longer, fuller skirts and
well placed use OF black and white
ace drapcry. For afternoon gowns they
nave made use of the toreador fashion
Which adapts Itself so we'll to black vel
'et undoubtedly to be one OF the most
important fabrics OF the autumn and win
YER The bodice, In the form OF a short
straight Jacket, has the high rolling
collar OF the toreador. The bodice
meets In V in front The skirt, fairly
mort shows black silk tassels on the
Nue and below the little Jacket at a low
aced waistlne is draped sash of
LtcN satin and Spanish red that crosses
=, tae right hip. the tasseled ends hang
'nt several inches below the end Of the
.Nrt II is bound to be an influence in
'vr American modes worth watching for.
= interesting 1t is that snany of the
french estahl!stcicmts showed more suits
,o7. '"~son than previously, though
nWerleans certainly did not have to wait
.or This 70 assure them OF the large
''ace that the suit Is to play in the
american woman's wardrobe. For we
ave always had to act with considerable
dependence IN the designing and max
es of suits A good many Of the suits
sa' are offered now were in the making
''ore the French openings--though In
.dhy Instances the American designer
as come to much the same conclusion as
ut French. But there are always essen
.a' differences In the way woman here
rvars her suit from the way OF the
,sheh woman--hence there must be
."erence in the design. With us much
"ore Importance is attached to the suit
"a street costume than Is the case with
we French women In the Judgment OF
very great many well dressed women
IRE II is the only really adequate street
e'umc for autumn and early winter
NS There is trimness and compact
.'@ about It that cannot be equalled in
Ne separate frock and wrap.
4 Pile Fabrics in the Lead.
riIe fabrics are In the lead--velvets.
ssuvetyns, plushes and dozen other
sorics Of like texture, variously named