Evening star., 1920-03-22

| AFTERNOON FROCk OF BLACK
| TAFFETA AND CREAM LACE. THE
| BASQUE RIPPLES BELOW THE
| WAISTLINE. THE GIRDLE is OF
! BRILLIANT RIBBON CAUGHT
WITH A BUNCH OF ORANGE
FLOWERS IN FRONT.
ent part of the gown from where 1t
| has been established. and she will in
stantly think OF 1t in relation to her
figure and the clothes she possesses
The other woman will miss the change
IN silhoue tie entirely and eagerly seize
| upon the way sash is folded or
! color manipulated.
The two classes OF women have been
hard at work for a month. They have
plenty to digest. No one is brave
enough 10 say that the contour of
| clothes Is changed from what it has
| been for six months, but the new
clothes give one a curious impression
/ OF subtle change and feeling that
the old clothes are not fit company for
| the new ones
An impression like this ia insidious
/ 1t makes for discomfort. The woman
who relies on good sense to aid her
toward strict economy at this crisis of
| the worlds industry. when all things
! cost more than they ever did in his
! tory. needs all the sterling qualities
| ing at her present wardrobe with
shrug of her shoulders.
The Ripple Below the Waist.
! One of the confusing adaptations of
| the pannier skirt is the wide fiuting
or ripple that is placed between the
waistline and the curve of the hips
| 1t is strongly Eliza bethan, All women
| do not like it, but all women will fol-
| low it in more or less enthusiastic
| manner. So many of the new gowns
show the ripple that the American
woman has fallen a victim to it, to
| speak of it.
| Often it is quite gorgeous; it smacks
of India and of all that is ancient; it
| is colorful and enticing.
Now and then a designer puts the
brilliancy in the girdle, and that holds
the ripple in place at the top of the
| hips and permits the basque to be
somber and demure. Do not antici-
pate bright girdles in one color when
you hear of this fashion. There is
nothing so simple as that effect in the
new clothes. That trick of France
last summer in using girdles in sew
eral colors has been retained in fash
ion and it is in full swing this spring
One of the reasons given by the de-
signers for the placing of ancient and
oriental ornamentation is a genuine
scarcity of original fabrics with which
to play and the seeming demand of
the world for bright colors. 1t is best
to say Seeming" for the uext few
weeks will prove whether or not
women will care to adorn themselves
with much that gets tawdTy if it is
not we'll done and of the expensive
| kind. For the present there will be
! q glittering mass of non-essentials
that may gladden. the heart of the
woman who likes to, play with details
new and pleasing.
| The women who look for the change
in contour are exceedingly interested
in that ripple below the waist, US
rests on the curve of the hips. which
! is not comforting fashion for those
who have been able to reduce by fast
| ing, exercise and attitude of mind.
There is no ouija board yet invented
| that has been able to tell n woman
| how to become IS thin and pliable
as a reed by the rivers edge.
! The Apron nt the Back.
To catch and hold this ripple that
finishes many of the upper garments
which we have already begun to wear
| there is a width of fabric that resem-
| bles an apron put on backward. The
! edge of the apron forms the ripple,
J which runs downward from the waist
| in front to knees at back. There are
few dressmakers who do not include
this model in their collection.
| The sketch shows one of the new
| spring frocks in which the idea is in
| corporated The material Is that sup
! pie weave of black taffeta that is a
| first cousin to georgette. The apron
| is of the fabric, and there is truly
gorgeous girdle in ribbon caught with
| orange flowers in front