Gilpin observer., 1920-06-10

lap being at the hem and the cloth cut
away In n diagonal line to reveal the
plaid cloth panel at the top only. This
panel. however. extends the full length
IF the skirt, and attached to the bot
tom of II are straps which button
around the legs. These are entirely in
visible except when the skirt is blown
about. This. while sounding rather
extreme, is really capital idea in
sport garment. 1t is most interesting
10 note the increased popularity of the
pantalette cuff and divided skirt.
Practically every important maker has
included some phase of the divided
skirt idea in the spring models.
ColIarIess Blouse, Red. Bound Edges.
A dress which embOdies this idea is
simple serge frock in leather brown
with straight hanging side panels piped
In bright red and buttOned on to the
baggy trouser skirt. Here. too, the low
hanging blouse fullness appears, and
On the puffy bodice a trimming similar
to that used on the skirt Is placed
across the front where the lower half
buttons to the yoke. This blouse is
rollariess and all the edges are bound
with red.
To the Spanish influence we may
attribute the lavish use of leather, not
only for trimmings. but for entire gar
ments rs well. One French firm shows
n dark leather coat lined with bright
red duvetyn. Lanvin makes very
smart straight box coats of leather
that are without fastenings Of any
sort.
Then there are bright colored leather
vests In ever so many of the dark
cloth suits for spring. But perhaps
the most interesting use of leather is
it's application in wide bands to the
English travelling and sport coats of
bright plaid worsteds.
Flare in Topooats.
In the camel's hair topcoats there
appears TO be preference for the
three-aunrter length style, which is
cut to flare sharply toward the bot
tom and is tightly girdled with a
string belt, thus giving the effect of
an even greater Hare. Either set-in
or raglan sleeves may be used.
Some of the newest homespun coats
have no fastening other than the belt,
the front of the coat tapping widely
and being held together merely by n
tightly drawn girdle. This, of course,
makes very warm garment, as the
coat is really double across the front.
II Is smart to wear n bright plaid scarf
with these coats.
One maker OF distinctive sport
clothes Is having phenomenal sue
cess with suits developed from Ca
madam homespun of an open weave,
similar In appearance to burlap. In
times pnst homespun suits were OK
tremely plain, the only thing attractive
about them being their durability.
There never hns been trimming thn'
could be suitably combined with home
spun, so there was nothing different
about them year after year. AS women
demand something new In their
clothes. the homespun suit was not
especially popular.
Trimming Easily Achieved.
This designer conceived the Idea
OF frlnglng the fabric to form trim
ming and also OF drawing threads to
make beautiful patterns In the cloth
As this Is n trimming easy to achieve
and very attractive, ever SO many OF
these homespun suits have frlnges OF
the material on both skirt and coat
The skirt mny have a tunic edged with
the fringe or tiers OF the cloth mny be
applied to the skirt and cont. Fol-
exnmple. one suit Of golden brown
Cnnndinn homespun IL mnde with q
box coat md plain skirt. Fringet
tiers Of the material nre added Il
both the coat md skirt on either side
leaving a plain panel In the buck unt
front.