Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1920-10-10
food, LIKE LOVE, NEEDS
VARIETY, SAYS NOVELIST
Famous French Author Regards
Kitchen ms an Important Func-
ton in Household.
CONTRASTS on ALL MENUS
Hot Dishes With Cold and Brittle
s Substances With Hard Ones Arc
Best Combinations to Serve.
BY PAUL. REBorN.

PARIS, Oct. a.--In former years
. ladies' of romantic temperamen; be-
sieged worn-out clerks of'bockst ores
with requests for "a sad book. book
sad enough to move them 70 tears
No one asks for such books III the
shops any more. If woman wants
to cry, she reads her cooks budget.
Since beef is SO high that It toIche IS
might come from The golden calf, VIC
are Obliged To change the substance
OF our repasts. We may as wcll say
soed.ey forever to 1S!e Eras. fine rs Is, h
pllcity has come to stay. Farewell
the Ions and succulcnt menus, Our
bills or fare today must not exceed
three lines at most.
Cut Down Cost I'm Kitchen.
Therefore let us combine culinary
reiinerncnt with tho Strinsoncy OF the
sl1pcs Great chefs become famous
because OF an inmate genius for salts
flying. without extra cost the taste
and CONSTITUENCIES OF certain paiates.
bining delectablc menu is ths law
Contrasts form the spice OF Nc:
They are the very sine qua non or
good cooking.
Rinds-contrasts of heat, contrasts q
nature and contrasts OF consistency.
You all know the delightful result
OF contrasts Of heat, the SaTor ana
Aavor obtained by combininG warm
dishes with something seed. Hot scuf-
tie with ice cream has long been pop
1ilar. But l wish 10 refer 10 more
staple dishes. For instance, nothing
il as delicious as hot chrstnuis with
roasted trufllee and warm beans make
a dish fit for king. The combine
tion OF hot and cold gives ont OF the
most precious sensations of the Eour-
hot n tcf lie tGyr ma -nl -
cold dish acquires aroma. EvNry
nouthtul. by the combination, gives
an unexpected and stimulating thrill
10 the palate.
in various ways--work out your own
salvation.
Must he Variety OF Food.
Contrasts of consistency are formed
fondants. frm ones with soft,
With charply Erilled veal outlet
have a soft veget able. With soft
sweetbreads use crisp fried potatoes.
Never commit such u sin as TO com
bine sweetbreads with praised celery,
as go many do. Believe me. In COOK
ing, as In love, there must be variety.
An inert element must be combined
with something that rcsists.
This is what makes the charm OF
almonds stir the lanEuor of n frozen
cream. This also the secret OF the
fascination OF the small crisp crou-
tons which give spice 10 on other
wise excellent but sof. d!sh-such as
champignons. In every nouthful
there must be something that gives
way and something that fights. What
fun or delight would there be in the
world II everything yielded TO us at
the flrst touch. Man IS only happy
when an Illusion OF effort is combined
with an assurance OF pleasure.
Contrasts OF nature MAJ be fo.u,u-
lated as follows: "A water vece-
table must always be combined with
:; mealy one"
Beams sim nm Old standby.
The combination OF white beans and
string beans, for instance, is an old
standby. But other vegetables are
not mixed half enough A dish OF
fartnaccous vegetables. served alone.
has something SO filing, almost re-
pulsive about II that you hesitate to
serve II 10 your friends.
On the other hand, 4 dish Of srin5 IN
or endives seems Gcn-cnly satisfying
Work out, therefore, delightful dishes
by mixing vegetables of both kinds
such as chestnut purUe enliycncd H.,
cubes OF raw celery, mashed potatoes
topped with salad or wntercrcs,
would have the housewife OF 70.
day, who has to count her every con,
try various simple combinations ~
contrasts. and In so doing remember
the words OF the famous B-iIIa-.
Savarin. who said. Tho discovery ~,
new dish brings more happiness 70
Ssarr va e.