The New York herald., 1920-01-19
All Frvoties Are Pared Away from Mems Goats to Provide
Extra Material Needed, by Decree of the Amer
can Designers Association.

Many man will awake this spring. |
gra adually, as all spring things awaken
to the fact that he may put his feet
through his trousers with his shoes laced
up. That is, he will If he is able to afford
a new suit at the new spring prices-but
that is another matter.
The innovation as TO trousers are a
hopeful and spring like suggestion, as
other matters pertaining to mems dress
were discussed at the meeting Of the
American Designers Association at the
1t would be difficult for any one not
present at the meeting to imagine thcl
sacrifices and the immense amount of
forethought that were necessary before
the extra material could be obtained for
the trousers. For INSTANCE all pocket
flaps and belts he'd to be eliminated and
laid on the altar of abrogation along with
all "dinky, sissy and lady-like styles
It seems that the seams Of the coat
that reveal the manly form beneath
albeit in sissyfied manner, require seam
bindings and the saving Of these bind
ings are TO be applied to the allowance
for material. thus adding at least an
eighth OF an inch to every manly shoulder
in New York. Yes. indeed. shoulders are
to be wider as well as trousers.
The bell sleeve will also announce to
the public that an expansion policy is
being pursued and the appearance Of
plenty of goods all wool and yard wide
will be complete. knowing nothing of
the bitter deprlvations entailed by the
elimination of pocket flaps and seams
the public will be fooled. pleasantly per-
haps, once more.
FrivoIity Frowned Upon.
To coat the bitter pill, shiny cord
piping may be applied where the pocket
flap once was seen and a tuck at the waist
line is permissible to do away with the
cost OF binding. However. even this
frivolity was frowned on by some of the
members of the association.
! In general it was agreed that suit coats
would be ''waisty but not too waisty" and
that the waist line would be much lower
! to give a more athletic curve to the
chest" "Crinkes about the waist so be-
Iloved by Broadway, were thrown into the
discard along with flaps and patch pock
cts.
When the living models who displayed
the new spring clothes opened their coats
broad striped Innings or silk were dis
tnctly visible even from the back of the
room, as the color5 of the Innings were
apt to be blues, greens or reds, possibly
all three.
Even the materials of the suits. as we'll
- - Ifxxf., 10. utx-vn
not the modest. invisible ones, but black
with decided lines of white and other
wider and more assertive combinations.
As IL is frequently well to follow what
others are doing as we'll as what they are
saying IL may be noted that the chairman
Of the afternoon. j. Caul Macdonald, was
himself wearing a remarkable vest. IL
was a white vest striped in black and the
stripes, which were held together by the
button holes and buttons, were coaxed
into parting below the tie and curving
gracefully out TO the shoulders. See illus
tration.
II was noticeable, also. that the ex-
ponent OF the low waist line and the
waisty effect that did not waste the ma
tcrial wore a natty tucked coat with the
forbidden belt at the back.
After settling the styles for 1920 the COM
mittee took a whack at the fate OF fash
ion and clothes beyond that date. Daniel
Edward Ryan, declared to be the Oldest
living designer of mems clothes In Ameri-
ca. predicted strange things for the future.
Would Enlist Farmer BOYS.
/ In fact IL became evident from the trials
OF the trade that men should be thankful
for any sort OF clothes at all that the
garment worker will allow him TO have.
To offset this Mr.. Ryan proposes 10 teach
the farmers son 70 make buttonholes ana
press suits, and during that trying period
in the interests OF all American clothes,
fthere Is no telling what sort OF clothes
! one may have 20 wear.
i At present in dealing with what was
termed the Bolshevik element IN the
trade the foremen were exhorted to use
their psychic powers in order TO eNtract
the work from the supposed worker. "
the buttonholes OF your most expensive
spring suit arc done in saw tooth foshior
be not surprised. for II is not uncommon
for the foreman to be told that ~ is good
enough and that Is all he needs TO know.
Said the speaker twisting his fingers
about like q Svcngali. You must pull the
work out OF them this way" And he
made several passes In the thin air with
his long, expressive hands.
/ In spite OF this encouraging advice sew
eral Of the association only shook thei'
heads disccnsolately The suggestion
! about the farmers boy seemed TO appea
20 them as moro feasible.
Just wait until the farmers son has
Learned his buttonholes and pressing and
takes TO designing suits and coats.
Mr.. Macdonald then disclosed the fact
that ne himself had been brought up on a
farm ana had a most Intimate acquaint-
, ance With the lamb. that source from
(which springs all-wool-and-a-yar
suits
There is no reason for calling the re-