The New York herald., 1920-01-11
Fashion Fads
Appearing in
Mdseason
Miss -Hogeboom Writes of the
Smart Things That Are
Being Displayed.
By AMY E. HOCEBooM.

In other words. the silhouette is either
very straight or very bulging, the mate
rials are either very smooth or very rough,
the frock may be very plain or very much
embroidered or very beruffled, and the
skirts are very short and the sleeves are
very short. so one cannot escape being
very something, no matter how she tries.
One place only does America draw the
line whatever else one may be, one may
not be very. very extreme. 1t is going to
be as difficult as keeping ones balance
while walking tight rope to keep from
inclining too much one way or the other
These midseason modes are always en-
tertainng. because there is so muchh va
riety of opinion that it keeps one busy
watching for the next move. One enthusi-
astic fashion authority will return from
Paris inlbued with the idea that the
coming models will be influenced by those
Of China, and another is certain that clas-
steal lines will prevail. and another pins
his faith on those from ancient Spain.
1t is so every season, and it is SO this
season and that leaves the decision TO
the individual. From now until spring
comes every little indication of what the
women themselves seem to favor will be
watched not so much in this country as
abroad. The winter resorts in France will
he the site of the final decision.
AS to silhouettes, we are assured that
the prevailing one for ones frock will
have a very bulging line. but the line for
suits will be entirely different, probably
quito untrammelled by excrescences.
II one wears the skirt in this form il
naturally follows that the wrap must be
designed to accommodate the extra width.
so the season has produced many of the
smartest wraps on the oosest and most
indefinite lines. These wide hipped frocks
and loose wraps are sure to be feature
of the early season modes.
The frocks are wide, with an inflated
line, wired If for evening wear, or cut
with sections to make them stand out il
for the afternoon. The draped skirt is
less evident.
Mr.. Ralph Breed, who recently returned
from Paris. has many interesting things to
say about the fashions as seen in and
about Paris. He notes particularly the
two slhouettes and the Chinese Influence
| in the frocks. Certainly the models he has
brought with his will indorse his opinion
Of the thing that is likely to be taken ur
next.
In lamp shade silhouette these frocks
are very original and show very odd COM
bnations of material. The flaring yoke
section Of the skirt is also a distinctive
! feature; gathered or pleated with a
/ straight section set on below 1t makes a
skirt that stands we'll away from the hips
without the aid of crnoline or wire
Mr. Breed emphasizes the fact that
lingerie collars and cuffs will be worn on
taileurs. and shows afternoon dresses that
are collarless. One would have to see these
frocks to realize hohw the Chinese infu-
ence is carried out in them, as it is not so
much the line of Chinese costume that is
used as the forms familiar in Chinese
decorations. Some Of the frocks suggest
the Chinese pagoda.
One of simplest of the frocks brought
over by Mr.. Breed perhaps best illustrates
the new silhouette in regard to which he is
so enthusiastic. 1t is in two materials
plain and figured taffeta. The pleated yoke
of the skirt is of the figured material, and
the plain section is fitted to it with the
edge standing a bit beyond the yoke. a
row of buttons down the plain section of
the skirt at the sides is repeated at the
sides Of the bodice. The latter is collar
less and all but sleeveless. with an up
standing ruch of the figured material on
| the shoulders.
Another model, a tsilleur. has accordion
1
front panel of plain material continued
into cuff about the bottom of the skirt.
This is in Poiret twill and shows the use
OF the lingerie collar and cuffs at the
throat and at the bottom of the flaring
three-quarter length sleeves.
The very loose and floppy wraps still
follow the lines of the dolman. although
one has frequently to look twice to make
out whether one Is looking at a cape or a
coat so dimnutive are the sleevessss
The new features in these wraps are the
slight pulling in of the fulness at the
back Of the waist and certain cape effects.
The pulling in is effected by lines run
ming across the back, which pinch in a
/ little of the extra material. Sometimes
/ this is done with a bit of embroidery TO
obscure the line or frankly as seam
crossing from the point where the sleeves
are formed.
Practically an Of the makers follow
these lines unless the wrap Is gathered
like cape. The huge collar which has
been featured by Premet for so long Is
still the smartest thing that the season
has TO offer. It will be remembered that
sthis Is the gathered collar, so deep that
II turns over and meets the shoulders
where a cuff stands out and around the
whole collar.
Jenny sends a model which has the real
i Jenny udSn, COHlDlHeu VIII hei uSuh'
simplicity. It is of n sand color Poiret
4 twill. with an odd use of the bow she
favors so frequently.
The i.ning of the scarf and the bow
seem TO be all in one. Possibly the lining
OF this wrap is not attached at the front
/ edge At any rate, IL is of green foulard
dotted in white and continues beyond one
side Of the wrap to form the scarf and
huge bow which Is tied at the throat. TIE
loose end of the foulard passes about the
neck and slips through slit at the other
side, where Il is knottcd into one loop
and an end
The shniest OF satin cire ribbon trims
another model by Jenny in this same soft
and nondescript shade of sand color twill
The ribbon is applied in perpendicular
lines all about the skirt and Is in shade
of brown that tones well with the color
Of the twill.
Cracking with ynartness is another
model entirely of the satin cire This is
in brown and looks almost like the leather
coats we have seen so much OF on this
side. Tho differencc-and II is very
large diffsrence--is marked In the way
the material hangs. and tho fact that u
Is lavishly embroidered across both front
and back Of its ample width with gold
thread embroidery.
An evening wrap Of n frosty-pinkisf-
lavender color taffeta is of the sort one in
/ stinctvely calls delicious. It Is trimmed