Evening star., 1920-03-05
Food, Health and Thrift
PREPARE FOR SPRING SEWING

tern on the material before cutting
| any OF them.
The pattern pieces should be dis
posed of to the best advantage, plac-
I laying on all the skirt pieces before
| the waist or coat parts are consid-
cred In following this method 1t Is
| sometimes possible to cut the smaller
sections Of waist, for instance. from
parts.of the material that rannot be
| used for skirt lengths; but not on any
account should The position % the
pattern pieces be changed from the
| correct one indicated by the perfora-
tlons. II the material Is short OF the
required amount. or expensive. or for
any other reason the utmost economy
has to be resorted to In cutting. II !s
! advisable to cut the gerrent from
| some inexpensive material, then flt
THIS and make any changes on the
pattern before cutting the garment
proper
Blasting n Garment.
| When bast!ng a garment together
| the parts to be Joined should first be
pinned together with their corre-
spending notches even. and Unless an
outlet Seam has beeh provided and
marked by perforations, the thrse-
e'yhth-inch margin allowed on the
pattern edges should be used for the
seam. Small running stitches should
he used In basting, and they should
be close enough to prevent the seams
from spreading apart when the gar
ment is being tried on. If a garlne ent
tits as closely as desired before 1t Is
| stitched, the stitching should be made
very close to the hastings. but slight
ly toward the edge. This allows for
any stretching of the basted seams
and also makes the removal of the
basting threads very much easier.
while 1t prevents the garment from
becoming too tight.
To sew transparent materials on
the sewing machine without causing
unsightly puckering of the seams
| place strips Of paper under the edge
or the material and stitch through
the seam. The paper is easily torn
away afterward and the seam will be
smooth
If using insertion or beading on an
edge that Is to be trimmed with lace.
! the edge Of the dress or other ma
beading. Then. II the lace Is to be
| felled on. the heavy thread ut the top
| OF the lace should be drawn up. This
! thread IS found in all lace edglng and
1s a great convenience, for 1t saves
the bother of gathering the lace. 1t
acts as gathering thread and one
| can make the lace as full as desired.
Now whip the lace to the other edge
| Of the beading
When gathering a ruffie, first maxi
a long. loose stitch on the machine,
! place the edges to be gathered under
the pressser foot and sew 1t. then draw
the upper thread until the rufiie has
the desired fullness. This Is good
practice when one wants ruffies of va
ried fullness long piece of ruff1ing
| in this way may be gathered at one
time and then used as needed.
a.
terials. first baste every tuck. using
dressmakers' pins, which are finer and
sharper than the ordinary pin. Place
| the chiffon on the lapboard. hold it to
the board with pins. lay the tuck with
a measure and then pin and baste 1t
| in place. Lay all the tucks. press the
| material and stitch. An easy way to
| make hand tucks in lingerie is to In
! crease the first tuck as usual for ma
| chine tucking and adjust the tucker.
| but do not thread the machine: then
/ run through the tucker. The needle
| will leave distinct line along which
| to run your hand sewing. The mark
\ er also leaves a line for the next tuck.
| 1t is best to sew each tuck as 1t comes
from the tucker since handling OBJ
sures absolute accuracy with the
daintiness of hand sewing and can be
done in less than half the usual time.
| Different Finishes.
| A number of different finishes may
be used for single ruches. Taffeta
4 silk may be frayed, pinked or finished
with tiny hand hems Satins, crepe
de chine and similar materials may
| be frayed or hemmed. The edges OF
chiffon should be rolled and whipped
tightly with fine stitches. making an
almost invisible finish. Net may be
| hemmed or, IL 1t has fine mesh.
cut in such a way that the edge needs
no finish. Any of these materials
| may also be cut double. with one or
two cords running through the center.
/ Soft ribbons requiring no finish can
also be used effectively. Whether the
strips for these ruches should be
| Ilengthwise, crosswise or bias depends
upon the material Chiffon should al
ways be cut lengthwise or crosswise.
Silks and satins lie in softer folds II
| cut crosswise or bias. II the edge is to
be frayed. they must be lengthwise
or crosswise. preferably crosswise. as
the threads are closer. making a
unfinished. cutting should be In line
with the long straight threads which
run leHgthwise or bias. Net Is more
easily hemmed If cut in this way, but
| for a double ruche it may be cut any
of the three ways.
Box plaitings should be hemmed
and Joined to the garment by cord
Ipiping. Side plaitings or Quillings
should be cut double. folded through
the center and basted. They require
three times their finished length. The
edge which the plating Is to finish
should be turned under a seams width
! and basted and the plating blind
stitched to position. Both edges Of a
| knife plating may be hemmed. and a
row Of machine stitching about half
an inch from the upper edge. holds
the plaits fiat and makes heading.
Beautiful buttonholes may be made
| in any material, no matter how thin,
If they are first marked and before
they are cut out are stitched along
each side on the machine. Cut be-
tween he two rows of stitching and
there viii be good foundation for the
lbuttonhole stitches. with no danger
Of raVeling. This makes the working
lof any buttonhole much easier and
greatly adds to its durability.