The broad ax., 1919-09-13

fronds high In the air so much used
formerly.
Trimmed 5rimG
The trimmed brim Is used In many
ways, as we shall see as the season
advances. Single flowers Of velvet
are being used In fiat masses around
the wide brims which turn up and
away from the face saucer fashion.
These hats are not so elaborate and
dressy as the picture hats Of velvet
and paradise, but they are suitable
for morning wear and make a trim
finish for the shopping dress worn with
smart wells and furs.
One Of the simplest is exploited in a
midnight-blue velvet In the saucer
shape with upturned brim. Around
the crown is placed a circle Of loops
made Of heaviest blue silk floss In a
lighter shade. These loops are used
to initiate ostrich fronds. which are
also much in evidence as a winter
trimming. At one side Of this model
is placed a large rOSette of the loops
Of the silk floss and an edge Of the
same finishes the brim around the
face.
Another treatment of this upturned
brim is seen In the wide sailor shape
which has a flaring brim across the
front Of the hat. giving something Of
a three-cOrnered effect seen from the
front. This is particularly suited TO
young faces and youthful types.
The f1aring brim is often thIckly
studded with tiny steel beads or dotted
with knots Of silk In the kind we call
French knots, meaning a tiny dot Of
the silken thread made by wrapping
It twice around the needle and pull
ing through to the under side. The
effect Is that Of silken beads. As this
is often done In contrasting colors 1t
makes a most effective trimming.
Because Of the great demand for
hats Of soft materials, such as duvetyn
and velours and velvet, and because
of the increasing cost OF these soft
and beautiful fabEics, the price Is con-
tinually mounting. especially as so
much of the trimming used this year
is done by hand and is really hand
embroidery. One Of the favorite eff
fects is seen In the use of simple bios
SONS, such as nasturtiums, single pc
tailed roses and kindred blooms done
in outline around crown and brim.
These are extremely simple to make,
so that we shall have a fad of home
made hats, doubtless, as almost any
one can embroider In the simple and
quickly made outline stitch.
High Draped Crowns
The high draped crowns are again |
seen. Sometimes they point up almost
q foot above the brim and are draped !
in a series Of folds which keeps them |
from being awkward and very ugly, as
they so easily could be. OF course the
brims which accompany these high
draped crowns must be wide enough
to set them of successfully and pre- 4
vent tOpheavy look. Among the new J
trimmings are seen much glycerined 1
ostrich feather banding. This sort Of I
treatment Of the feathers makes them /
shiny and glossy. The fronds are
placed singly along a narrow band TO
hold them and are used thus against /
the brim in a width sufficient to entire
ly cover the brim and extend slightly
beyond. They are used effectively on
q rather wide hat Of rOse-colored vel
vet Of which the crown Is Of the high
draped design thickly brocaded in sill
yer. The feather band lies fiat over
the brim and a narrow strip Of silver
ribbon encireles the crown where the
feathers and the brocade come to-
gether.
A new shade is called nasturtium
yellow and Is as vivid as 1t can pos
sibly be and very smart when made
ID In an untEimmed velvet hat rolling
rs to brim and crown too. These I'M
hats are quite new, as they
have an air entirely an their own and
seam 10 Be most elaborate when nb-
solutely unframed. This enect u
achieved BY q clever draplng Of the
velvet, as In one instance the velvet
3 80 arranged that Il seems to make
4 fold over the crown and Is folded
In over the brim In q double effect
which Is different from more ordinary
arrangements