davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1919-07-12

This Creation Of Beauty for Summer
Wear IL q FIambeau smoek Of Ex
quIsite Lavender Crepe Meteor
With Lavender Flowers Shading In
70 the Deeper TOneG
give an opportunity to INTRODUCES
charming color effects into our COS
tumery, are especially desirable foI
the uncorseted but somewhat mature
figure. because they conceal the waist
line, which, II defined, Invariably
makes women look older.
There are different ways Of betting
these biouses. In some instances the
belt or sash runs under the front o.
the blouse and comes out Of the sida
seams TO lie at the back. and at othei
times this method Il reversed with thu
girdle tying in the front, and some
times the girdle just encircles the out
side Of the blouse.
To Be Made at Home.
A frOek Of unusual charm, and ont
that might easily be made at home, 10
Of white chiffon lowered with pInl
roses. This Is made Ike a front ant
back apron falling full length over ar
Overskirt Of plain white chiffon. Thess
panels are bound with rose ribbons o.
a tone to blend with the flowers in thf
fabric and are tied together at inter
walls down the skirt by bows Of the rib
bon. Around the very low-cut neck
line falls bit Of fine white lace shad
owing a rose ribbon which ties undelt
the lace at the front in a bow.
The same treatment is carried on
on the very short sleeves. The lac'
makes turnback cuffs under whIel
gees the ribbon The Idea is very sim
pie but clever. Il Is just the sort o.
little dress that, seen or described
makes you feel that you want to sc
to work and make one, because a.
every feminine heart Is the creative
clothes instinct, which, II fostered 4,
any degree. IL bound TO find expires
sion.
Lingerie Dresses Sent BY Paria
OF the latest lingerie dresses tina
Paris has sent rs the ODe-plece cora
and white checked frock Is Fashioned
Of French muslin. a material clOselsI
resembling z me wolfe. A deep fold
hand hemstitehed at both top And bot
tom, makes the SKIRT appeal as thOugl
II had an oyerskirt. The sleeves. patel
pockets and blouse. too. are trimmet
with hand hemstitching done in coral
colored thread A particularly inter
estIng feature OF this dress Is the new
long-shouldered eject. Plain coral
cosored material Of the same shad.
forms the belt, cuffs and a collar whicl
starts In the front ard ties in bow
at the hack Of the neck.
The broad ax., 1919-07-12

est and most striking examples Of new
trimming is the use Of Scotch thistle
on a lace straw OF large dimensions
And for the welcome Of the Rainbow
division, one designer especially ere
ated a lovely hat In flesh color
trimmed all over the brim with elus
tiers OF heads OF wheat In all the deli
cate shades Of the rainbow.
The broad ax., 1919-07-12

Calico Is now iA the arist0crat claH
Of garment fabrics being raised iron
the plebeian ranks tnsf as slnghnn
was two years ago. Fabric that woull
have gone infp WORK aprons for on
grzndmothers Is now 70 be combine.
with white orEandle far smart sum
mer dressesl EDgllsa print Is hard I,
obtain tbs season.
The broad ax., 1919-07-12

The woman who Is trim from top to
toe never f0rgets that a veil Is the last
touch In dalnflness for any outdoor
costume. This year she 3 wearing
one Of the bia-meshed wells that seem
to be the fad; but iust because ven
Deshes are 80 bic cashIcn has Whlm-
slcally introduced ding meshed pat
terms that are scattered over the vel
d az elect q contrast.
The broad ax., 1919-07-12

Youthful style dresses Of gingham
voiIe. orEandle and calico have sleeve
ending iust above the elbow. medium
n width and enished with turn-bad'
ems. These styles ef course peai
l11E 1lalaa ).
The broad ax., 1919-07-12
chee,Ss Are the Thing.

Cheeks are IN for 5 good deal y 4
tention. They appear in many :. =
new ribbons. and some OF the "a 4
sweaters are knitted In ehecAe.
signs Often, too. a sweater = = {
WITH q checked bOrdes ana
checked band ct the lover edge
fna sleeves.
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

other British organizations, chiefly
women's organizations, but includ
ing the British and India Associa-
tlon and the Central Islamic So
ciety. The individual signatures in
cludc those of Lord Haldane. Lady
Selbourne, Bishop Weldon, Princess
Sophia Dhuleep Singh and Aga
Khan, who has recently written at
length on reform for women in In
dia and incorporated it in his book
on lndia's internal needs.
1t is interesting to set down here
that Hindu supporters and friends
in New York City do not seem to
agree heartily with the suggestion
that these twelve educated women
out of every thousand should be per-
mitted to vote in India. They de-
mand that education prccedc
the right of franchise for Hindu
women.
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

a factory was new proposition to
employers, and it took time to
persuade them to have it. To-day
there are three kinds Of day classes
in forty-three factories, fifteen
classes for bakers who work at
night and thirty-fve classes for for
eign-born mothers in settlements
and schools.
"The Board of Education will
start class in any factory where
there are twenty-five persons who
desire to read and write English" 4"
says Miss Sarah Elkus, of the De-
partment of Education, who is in
charge of this work. "The city
pays for the teacher and the equip
ment, and requires only the CO.
operation of the firm. Many en-
ployers have given these classes a
cordial reception, and have done all
they could to induce the workers to
New York gives the workers one
half hour of instruction each day at
the company's expense. That is, the
workers receive full time while
learning English. This is the ideal
plan, but while many employers are
willing to give artificial light and
space for this school, they do not
wish to pay for time and light that
are not devoted to their work. How
ever, the increase in efficiency and
decrease in accidents are so appar-
ent after the classes have been in
operation for a reasonable period
that l believe many employers will
follow this method, because it actu-
ally pays them to do so.
Zone of the most important steps
in the Americanizing of the for
elgner is, OF course, the learning of
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
hy the Heron Habit Is Called Manhattan Disease

Mulhall prefers to have them called,
drug sufferers, visit the clinic every
day, all sorts and conditions, from
nearly all ranks Of life, all with the
same yellow pallor and the same
peculiar look in the eyes. They are
examined and registered on the first
visit and given the maximum guam
tity of the drug which they are in
the habit of taking. This amount
is decreased every other day by one
grain until the minimum is reached.
The time has then come when the
clinic can do no more for them and
they must have hospital treatment.
And now comes the tragedy of it
all. The Health Department did
not anticipate anything like the at
tendance which the clinic has had,
and consequently the hospital ac-
commodations for these patients are
very meagre. At the present time
there is not hospital or institution
which can take in a single new pa
tient. 1t is most lamentable state
of affairs, for these habitual users
of heroin or cocaine or morphine
cannot exist on the minimum amount
day after day, and SO the dose has
to be gradually increased until they
are finally back at the starting point
and all their struggle and self-con-
troll has been in vain.
shall never forget the look of
disappointment that came over the
face of one young fellow who came
to DR.. Hubbard, the director of the
clinic, on the afternoon that l was
there, when he was told that there
was no place for him in the hos
pitfalls. He came up fairly radiant
at the prospect of going to place
where he could be cured.
"Dr. Shaw says Pm ready for the
hospital, sir" he said. "When can
l go? l can be ready to go to-mor-
row if you say the word. I want to
get through with it as soon as I
can"
"I'm awfully sorry, old man." said
the doctor, "but you will have to
wait; there is no place for you just
now. l know it's hard, but you must
be patient"
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

public, how the State of New York
is governed, how the City of New
York is governed, how the state anc
city governments serve the public
and how to become a citizen of the
United States.
This is the sort of lesson, though,
that works. One of the first pupils
to learn English out of a grown-up
primer was one Teresa Pumo, and
after she. had done it she wrote:
"This year, after the working
hours, for the first four days of the
weech; l have one hour of school.
"A nice, kind lady teaches ME the
beautiful english language. 1t is a
fine opportunity for which l am very
grateful to my good generous en-
ployer. l have already learned
many, many words and before the
end Of the season, | am sure that
will know a great deal more. | had
lived in this country many years
without knowing a word Of english.
1t was very sad for me to hear
people talk language that l could
not understand.
Many times I wished to be able
to go to the evening school; but it
was not easy for me, as | stop work
ing at six o'clock. But now | take
my lessons in the same building
were | work, and l have such a good
teacher. l can never thank her
enough for her kind manners and
for her excellent way of teaching.
every day in learning English
learn to love her more and more"
Teaching English in factories is
"safety first" method, says Miss
Elkus. The non-English speaking
women are put at the lowest pay
and the most hazardous work. Many
of these foreign-born women are
seriously handicapped because they
do not understand the language of
their foremen nor speak the tongue
of the community in which they live.
Difficulties arise because they do not
understand orders, labor laws, nor
industrial standards. They become
victims of unprotected machinery
and of fire because they cannot heed
the warning given in print and by
word of mouth. When asked what
the "exit' signs meant only one in
large group of girls in a factory
could tell or explain what thew
meant.
Large employers of labor can do
much for the safety and welfare OF
American industry by having their
employees learn the English language
so that they are able to understand
directions, safety instructions and
signs. The Ford automobile factory
reports that by the teaching o. Eng
lsh to foreign-born employees acci-
dents have been reduced 81 per
cent. A Detroit efficiency engineer
says that he has known single
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
The NeaU Citizen on The STAGE

ME voting actress is laboring
under difficulties, said a GER
tain young thing, the same
being Miss Fay BANTER, just be-
fore the second act, with her Chi
nese eyebrows still painted on her.
East may be West. but not when
you come to voting.
"To begin WITH" said this New
Citizen, crossing her pink silk Chi
nese pajamas, you must establish a
resldence-or is it in divorce that
you have to do that? Well, what
ever you call it, you have to be
Johnny on the Spot in the district
where you vote for a year, month
or day-as the case NAV be.
You'll find it in tie almanac. The
almanac is terrible book. 1t has
all the information in it that everv.
body pretends to know, and nobody
does. See the almanac"
And the almanac said that for
state elections the previous resi-
dence required in Alabama was two
years, in New York one year, and
IN Iowa six months There is lust
one state where you can vote after
three months residence. and thoro
you can't vote if you are a woman.
"Consider,' said FAY. the brain
Tag for an actress on the road. re-
membering all the different resi-
dence qualifications! Of course.
that's nothing. Nobody minds a
little thing like brain fag, but it's
almost physically impossible for an
actress to vote, because she isn't
IN any one place long enough to do
| it.
when you're eating uncooked
shrimp in Chicago, San Francisco
and New York for atmosphere
sake, and table d'hotc in Peoria out
of sheer hunger, you haven't much
time to find out if John Jones or John
Doe is the candidate for you. Your
main concern is that they are both
at the play in the front row.
"An actress is the sort of woman
to view-view her and interview
her as much as you like, but don't
expect her to have a point of view.
She hasn't got it, civicly speaking.
Its not that she is lightweight,
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
By DOROTHY METZGER

~ ROWN-UPS are now learn
ing their A B C's in the
~ A m rican language in
forty-three factories in
New York City. This is in line with
the recommendations of the New
York State Reconstruction Commits
sion embodied in it's recent report
on education.
In the grown-up primer from
which the workers study the first
word is "man" and the second is
Americanization has played on the
woman" This is the variation that
ancient ''cat, rat, sat" scale by which
we learned the three RS. The grown
up primer is simple and mature in
the same breath. One of the first
sentences that the iliterate foreign
born woman learns to say is: Il
read the evening paper"
Glasses in reading and writing
and citizenship for foreign-born
workers are being supervised in
New York factories by Miss Sarah
Elkus, of the Department of Edu-
cation
This Americanization work was
begun at fashionable miliner's
There were nineteen pupils in the
class and eleven nationalities. All
sorts Of girls were there-French
German, Polish, Italian, Greek, Hun
garian, Albanian, Russian, Spanish
Swedish and Swiss girls.
The places where they worked
we're at great distance from their
homes, and older people do not like
10 go to school and learn with youne
people. 1t makes them feel awk.
ward. The idea of having school ir
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
500 to 1000 a Day
From All Ranks of Life

"What happens to the older ad-
dicts?" l asked Miss Graham Null
hall. "There must be a great
many"
eve never see them here" she re-
piled. "My idea is that they are
most of them either confirmed in
valids or confirmed criminals-for
one of the effects of the drug is that
it blunts all the moral sense and
leads to all sorts of crimes"
Between eight and ten hundred
drug addicts, or, as Miss Graham
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
4 Woman Deputy Commissioner
Leads in the Campaign
Against Narcotics

mans job. 1t is estimated that
there are 100000 people within the
boundaries of Greater New York
who are addicted to the use of mar
cotic drugs and that at least four
fifths of these use the most danger
Gus Of all of these drugs-heroin.
DR.. Pearce Bailey had good reason
for naming the heroin habit "the
Manhattan disease"
Moreover, the use of these drugs
is rapidly increasing, and, unless
radical measures are used to check
it, it is bound to become one of the
greatest menaces to the country.
The clinic which the Health De-
partment is conducting at Jas
Worth Street is step in the right
direction, for here, for the first
time, the habitual user of narcotic
drugs is treated, not as an object
OF Scorn and derlslOn, not as a GRIM
inal, but as an invalid-a sufferer
from a painful disease.
If you have any feeling in your
heart other than tolerance and SYM
pathy for these unfortunate people
an hour spent at the clinic will
change your viewpoint, for of all
the pathetic aggregations of human
beings that it has ever been my lot
to see the throng that pours into
that little brick building is far and
away the most pitiable.
The thing that impresses one the
most is that they are all, without
an exception, under thirty years Of
age.
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

the English language. Yet it is not
simply the learning Of the English
language that counts, but the ideas
and inspiration gained through the
language as we'll. That is why
civics and citizenship, covering the
history and ideals Of the United
States, are part of the course of in
struction. In teaching we use direct
methods. We teach illiterate men
and women how to read and write
such words as sit and stand by
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

making them go through the ac-
tions; and we open the window and
we close the window-and then we
say it. The result of this is that
the illiterate learn to read and write
in two months. The literate-those
who can read and write foreign Ian
guagcs--lcarn more quickly.
"In the factory classes one-third
are llllterate. In the mothers
classes three fourths are iIliteratc.
In the bakers classes seven -eighths
arc llliteratc. One factory in which
| started Americanization classes is
now organized like the Federal gov
crnmcnt and run with congress,
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
Fifty Per Cent Can Be
Salvaged Now

"What percentage of these people
do you think are really permanent
ly cured?" | asked the doctor.
II should say, offhand, about so
per cent" was his reply. But we
are going to do much better than
that before we are through he
added.
"Can't they stop of their own vo-
lition if they exercise enough will
power?" was my next inquiry.
Absolutely no." he answered.
"The drug habit takes hold on a
person as nothing else does, and
treatment is an absolute necessity y
Miss Graham-M -Mulhall has very
concrete and practical ideas for the
treatment of habitual drug users
which have grown out of her long
experience with them, and the COM
mission has formulated a construct
i've plan for the working out of
these ideas, which will be followed
very carefully. One of the principal
features of this campaign, and one
which is meeting with strenuous op-
position from many of the members
Of the medical profession, is regis
tration by physicians of all of their
patients who are addicted to the use
of drugs. If this is done throughout
the city it is estimated that in four
months time the name of every
drug addict in the city will be on the
books of the commission, and by the
end Of six months the results of the
reduction Of the amount Of the drug
given to each patient according to
the law, which will require the guam
tity to be decreased with each pre-
scription) may be estimated, and it
is the firm belief of the members of
the commission that this six months
period will show a decrease of %
per cent in the amount Of drugs
used. Reputable physicians are
urged to prescribe the drug to those
of their patients who are addicted
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

promptly be begun. 1t is estimated
that there are Approximately 10000
women and girls i'll with painful dis
eases consequent upon drug using
who have nowhere to turn for ade-
quate relief and ultimate restoration
to health. Their condition is pitt
able in the extreme, for they are both
scorned by the public and neglected
by philanthropic effort-privatc as
we'll as municipal-mainly because
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

without an ounce Of political brain.
Some mighty thoughtful women are
actresses. but their thoughts turn in
other directions, you might say
According TO Miss Banter, the
actress, when she is not rehearsing
or acting, is either travelling OF
sleeping. The clubwoman Is edu-
Gated by lectures and meetings and
pow-wows and elections on small
scale. But there is no parlianen-
tary procedure in the routine of an
actress.
"Of course" said Fay, q believe
in the vote for women, but let
George do it :"
Deems WELLER
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

composed Of house of representa-
tives and senate, with the presi-
dent Of the company as president.
This factory has now 200 in its
Americanization classes, and there
are 500 more on the waiting list. 1t
is organized as an industrial democ-
racy.
"Foreign women in the United
States fall automatically into two
classes-first, the women in indus
tries and occupations; and, second,
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
Shall Hindu Women Vote?
TIME whole world of women

\HE "nole world of women ia
coming on, very much So
East may be East, and West
West. and never the twain shall
meet III most matters-we concede
1t. But not in the matter Of votes
for women!
In India only twelve women out
OF every 1000 of full age can read
and write. Yet the movement for
woman suffrage in connection with
,the Indian constitutional reforms
shas been gaining ground rapidly in
India and in the British Isles them
selves.
The Indian Women's Education
Association has promoted a me-
mortal TO Lord scarborough and
has sent it TO India to him, where
he is laboring to frame and cgtab-
lish an electoral franchise. The
memorial is supported by nineteen
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
the tragedy of their fate and their
great needs are not realized.
The Women's Need
Is Greatest

AS women addicts are harder to
save than men, clergymen, physi-
clans, social workers and the judici-
ary are agreed that the immediate
crying need is scientific system of
care, treatment and training for
these physical and mental sufferers.
Many of these women are wives and
mothers whose children are without
proper care and their restoration TO
their families is a social necessity
of the first Importance. The girls
are the mothers of the future and
their continued physical deteriora-
tlon is a community concern, for the
habit does not prevent their marry
ing and begetting children, who are
robbed of their birthright-that of
being we'll born"
1t appears that the women ad-
diets do not take so kindly to the
idea of the clinic as do the men, for
while there were hundred or more
young men in the downstairs room
on the day of my visit there were
only six young women sitting in the
room allotted to them on the second
floor, six poor, unfortunate derelicts
One, much older than the others, sat
alone in corners with eyes partly
closed, smoking cigarette; she was
evidently one of the hardest cases.
Another, a girl of eighteen or twen-
ty, we'll dressed and as neat as a
pin, was just preparing to "cook"
her drug, and at the doctors sug-
gestion she continued the opera
tlon. The little case containing the
hypodermic syringe lay on the wood
en- chair before her, and she had
a tablespoon, in which she had Just
placed the proper quantity of the
3, drug. She took from her handbag
a small vial of water and filled the
syringe with this and added it to the
powder in the spoon. Then she held
a lighted match under the spoon to
heat the mixture and dropped a tiny
bit Of cotton wool in to soak it
up and act as a filter. The syringe
sucked up the moisture from the
wool and it was ready for use. The
girl incculated her leg just above
the knee, adding another little red
mark to the dozen or more already
on the flesh.
"How do you feel when it takes
offect?" | asked.
"Jest grand" was the reply. "But
| hope | can go to the hospital soon
| want to get of it. as soon as |
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15
Publicity and Hospisalizing
Needed First

"At the present time" she will
tell you, 'it is a fostering sore
which the public is ignoring and
trying to keep out of sight. but with
registration the lid will be off and
the seething mass opened up, and
then we shall know lust what va
have to deal with. Then, and cnlv
then, can we hope to heal it up"
The great problem just now is
disqualification. This is not a mat.
ter to be laid upon the table and
acted upon later. The need is
urgent; it must be met right nor
What are we gctng to do about it?
Miss Graham Mulhall has a verv
practical idea. She suggests that
some of the big military hospitals
which are being abandoned be taken
over and utilized for this purpose.
There is one on Staten Island which
would be excellent, and Miss Ora.
ham -Mulhall points to the Quaker
buildings at Lebanon which were
used by the government during the
war, but which are again available
row.
There is no question in the mind
of any intelligent person who has
locked the matter in the face as to
the vital necessity both for hospitals
where the drug addict can be treated
and institutions where he can 20
for the follow up" treatment. It
is bound to come, so why not do
it now?
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

and, with the 200 at North Brother
Island, 452 in all, when accommoda-
tions are needed right now for 10000
addicts!
AS you will notice, the facilities
are much smaller for taking care Of
the women than of the men, for
there are in all just SO beds in the
various institutions for women pa
tients.
"If it were forcibly brought to the
New-York tribune., 1919-06-15

accident due to ignorance of English
to cost as much as $4,000. Thou
sands of dollars are paid out fer in
Jurles, many Of which may be traced
directly to the same cause.
There is another way in which
English primers fer grown-ups are a
safety first" method: The purpose
OF Americanization is to teach a
proper respect for law and govern
ment and a sense of responsibility.