The sun., 1919-01-26
AIOR MADE SUITS KEEP THEIR DISTINCTION AS AMERICAN

rs It far fetched TO bring Ralph
Waldo Emerson into a story OF
women's fashions? l am sure
Mr.. Emerson would not object: his
broad vision encompassed much that
was OF lesser interest than apparel.
1t does seem homogeneous, however,
to mix the semi-annual discussion OF
tailored suits and the philosophy of
Americas sage; but he said that ANY
particle may suddenly become the CEN
tire of a movement and compel the sys-
tenn to gyrate around It," And when
he wrote this. he applied 1t to all the
fluid movements of social existence.
Fashion is fluid. 1t has no roots or
centres that are stationary. Any one
thing, like n speck of dust, whirls into
the open, and there Is a wild bit Of a
storm for moment that dies out and
sometimes leaves established Convic-
lions and again wipes out much that
was and creates something that is new.
At least once year there is an eff
fort made by those who blow little
whirlwinds into the open TO establish
a new type of tailored suit, and they
do this with an especial thought for
the American.
We claim this costume as a product
OF the Western world. This claim may
not be based on any good evidence
for the English make the claim that
they started the tailored suit as an ad-
mirable informal costume for the open.
Possibly they did. Yet, the Americans
emphasized the suit and adopted 1t as
the central part of their paraphernalia
OF dressing. 1t is difficult for them to
let go Of it.
Denounced by the French.
The French rise up now and then to
denounce It, and then, with the ca
price in apparel that is essentially
French, they play up the tailored suit.
not only to the American buyers, but
on the figures Of their most charm
ing women.
The French. however, say that the
Americans make the best tailored suits
in the world, and they cannot quite
understand why our people should go
TO them for a costume that is essen
TALLY Western. The reason why we
draw inspiration from France, how
ever. Is easy TO find. We turn to her
as the sunfower turns to the sun. We
may depart from her laws Of dress; we
may modify or emphasize her DEGREES
in apparel; We may adapt certain
changes to our activities and social
customs. but we admit that France
lays down the sartorial law for the
tailored suit, as for everything else in
costume.
True, the Americans did create
costume that was acceptable to the
American woman, but have you noticed
In the last few weeks that that especial
type of tailored suit has not only be-
come commonplace, but is avoided by
fastidious women? That exaggerated
narrowness in the skirt, with it's wide
flap at the back, its tightness about the
knees. its length that sweeps the
ankles. is demode. One gets 1t for SO
at the cheapest shops. 1t has disap-
peared from the wardrobes of the we'll
dressed
Street skirts Shortened.
There has been a tendency to shorten
the street skirt since the new year
began. There Is as yet no disposition
shown to adopt the bathing suit which
Paris calls q tailored suit and which
her women have worn without apology
or excuse since last August. We went
through that phase of dressing last
year.
Thousands Of women cut their skirts
off twelve inches above the instep
They wore boots or high spats, how
ever. to cover the leg between the
ankle and the hem of the skirt. The
French have not worn the high boot
with their bathing suit skirts. They
have adopted Oxford ties as a national
shoe. regardless OF the weather, and