The daily morning oasis., 1919-04-29

NEW YORK, April 26.-The way
the women are dressing is certainly
tough On the GAR. veterans. Why
it gets the old boys all mixed up till
they can't tell whether this is the
end of the world-war or the Civil
one. The dear girls are all dressing
the part as if they were welcoming
their heroes; home from Gettysburg
instead of st. Mihiel or the Argonne.
Looking like animated Illustrations
from Godey's Lady's Book or moving
daguereotypes of grandma as a girl,
they button their tight basques down
the front, fasten fiat lawn or lace
collars demurely round their Threats
with a knot of velvet or cameo and
peer coyly out from under q perky
wee sailor or coquettish poke.
All the old fashioend Civil War
time trimmings are edging our 1919
skirts, sleeves and pep1ums with
fringe, ruching, quilting, pinking and
rows OF. velvet ribbon. If your cloth
es start to fray, pray don't throw
them away. For frayed and raveled
edges on your taffeta frock are the
smartest touches lof all. Instead of
being turned up as usual, hens are
turned down completely as finish
for the newest skirts. Where the
old fashioned trimmings don't edge
them, a narrow cording or just the
selvage of the goods does the truck.
Not only Civil Wartime trimmings
but materials as we'll are all the rage
and there has been a reversion to
surah and MORE silks, quantity pat
termed challis, Powered organizes and
chiffons and, 2 Of course, sprigged
muslins, caiicos and prints.
/ The cllallis, charming in its pastel
colorings, tiny rose buds, dots of nose
gays, make especially attractive little
Ifocks for Spring and Summer that are
particularly adapted to when grand
tnna-was-a-girl" treatment.
The beaded reticule, the floating
scarf, the fringed edged sash, the
bell sleeve, ruching edged, over and
tunder-sleeve of organdie, the tiny
carriage parasol Of lace, tire flowing
veil, the short white gloves with
above-the-elbow sleeves, the perky
little low crowned sailors tilted to the
fore with bunch Of ostrich plumes
in arrears, the ubiquitous dolman and,
yes, even the bouquets we hand our
selves and pin at the corsage, primly
tight and set affairs encircled with a
lace paper frill, these, all these are
as Civil-warish as these uncivil and
Bolsheviki days can make 'em..
After the severe puttee and khaki
feminine fashions Of the last few
years, this is really the most attrac-
tive and softly seGuctively period of
style the pendulum of fashion could
swing back to. We will now go the
limit to look feminine and clinging
vine-like although even in our sprig-
ged niuslins and streamer trimmed
ieghorns we do not cease to demand
1 the vote. s
! A vote of thanks is indeed due to
the artist who brought out the lovely
printed chiffons of this season. They
are not splotched all over in huge
diaboiical designs, like those of last
Spring, but artistically reveal at set
intervals lovely trailing rose gar
lands, tied with true lovers knots.
With ivory white, silver grey and
black background and made up to
best feature each design, these chif-
fons are truly exquisite.
Aside from the scarves that have
been revived for wear with these
sweet costumes of chiffon, organdie,
ehallis and muslin, the fringed and
embroidered silk crepe shawls, of
which every we'll regulated grand
mother possessed a small collection,
are just the final fitting touch to a
perfect toilette.
Lucky indeed the grandchild whose
grandmother numbered among her
collection one Of those rare cobwebby
three-cornered shawis Of Chantilly
lace. Sharper than serpent's tooth
it is to have had shawlless grand
mother, for we certainly shall shawl