The sun., 1919-09-28

they are full as well as short
does not add to their grace.
And that their fulness reaches its
widest dimensions over the hips Is a
statement that dismays the stoutest
heart among women.
If one wants the silhouette of the
hour. as It Is shown in the new Paris
clothes, one can look at a picture by
Velasquez to get 1t in its EXTREMIST
form. but even then one will not have
get q complete conception Of the
artificial figure of the woman of the
hours az 1t Is formed by her new frock.
The Spanish panier, which in its
cay was a humorous adaptation of
the large baskets balanced on each
side Of q donkey. the commonest form
Of transportation, and which one sees
to-day on Spanish and italian roads,
is revived. These paniers were imi-
tated in the seventeenth century In
apparel Of sumptuous fabrics, and
women Of the court tried to rival each
other In the width of the buckram
that distended the hip line. 1t was
not the era of the hoop skirt; that
artihciality gives a different silhouette
from what Is launched to-day.
The Spanish panier Is straight dis
tention of the hip line which per-
mits the material to fall in lamp shade
effect to its hem. This hem does not
flare. 1t is not as wide as the hip
line. It has a tendency to curve in
ward toward the leg.
At some Of the big houses there are
not even any notifications of this
Spanish skirt Of another century /;
splendid gowns are built of metallic
tissues. bullion fringe and embroid-
cries to reflect the extravaganza of a
day that left its impress on the whole
world Other gowns merely admit the
sway of the Spanish panier by in
cooperating fulness at the hips. There
are few gowns that lie fiat on the hips,
Jackets, long and short. are arranged
80 that their fulness juts out from
the side of the waist line and becomes
overhanging caves to a drapery OF
the skirt that also distends the hip.
How Crinoline Is Used.
Crinoline is plentiful, but It is not
used at the knees or hem Of skirts.
Its duty is to hold out the fulness
mission done, 1t does not appear again
In the frock. This crinoline is of vari-
Gus kinds. not always cheap and COM
monplace, as the name suggests. but
often of metallic threads that show
through transparent fabric, and in dis
closing their Identity also disclose the
reason for their presence.
Each house has its own way of hand
ling the panier. and one set of cos
tunes is therefore more graceful than
another. 1t takes a daring woman to
for the stout, the middle aged. and
even the conservative women there are
types of clothes with fulness at the
kps that are very acceptable.
As the season progresses dozens OF
new methods of obtaining fulness al
the waist line will appear, and the
silhouette will be modified. recast, and
will probably settle down into a safe
and sane fashion. At the present hour
it is quite alluring, especially as II
gives the American commercialists a
new thing to offer.
1t is really not new; 1t was advanced
last February. and several months be-
fore American houses had determined
TO demobilize the short scant skirt anc
bring in those with the peg top outline
and the fulness that did not disclose
the actual measurements of the hip.
The type of fulness which is de.
scribed as umbrella folds, and also the
huge pocket, gaping open at the hips
and boldly ornamented to accentuats
its presence, are old features to the
American dressmakers. Therefore, q
great deal Of the new fulness on the
hips which is the dominating part Of
the new silhouette, as it is called
IS a familiar sight to Americans an6
they will know how TO manage It
1t is barely possible, however, tha
ones old clothes will do for this sea
son. There may be a chance for theil
alteration.
Widely Varying Clothes.
There is a wide variety Of clothe
shown in Paris and again one feel!
the lack of great leaders OF fashion
who sift the chaff from the wheat anC
impress a certain style upon the en-
tire public. Whatever gowns are mad,
with fulness on the hips, how yer. arr
newer than those worn by the French
women all summer, for the Parisienne
in contradistinction to the American
has not deviated from the chemis,
G-.cA and the tailored suit with 1t.
straight knee length coat and a skir
that reached only few inches below
the coat.
One likes to go from opening 4
opening at the different houses e
make "a study of how the hip dimen,
sions are obtained. A summary o.
them would fill small book. Havini
agreed on the essential features of the
silhouette, the dressmakers have gon,
70 their salons with their designers tC
work 1t out by their own methods. On,
house shows over dozen different de
yelopments.
There is the obvious panier with It.
crinoline support that rounds itself ou
over the hips and balances itself wher
the wearer walks exactly as one see.
pair OF laden baskets swinging IL
perfect balance on the sides OF a don
key who ambles along. Ambling
mind you. is the rev kind OF walk tina
WIZ have to come with the donke,
paner for no woman can 20 brislSl,
trotting through the streets. or dane,
tne Jazz as she does in Paris witt
tnese huge boulders on her hips Sh,
ax.nIr.