Free trader-journal. (Ottawa, Ill.) 1916-1920, 1919-02-27


thoughts turn to the rehabilitation of
the winter wardrobe, or the acquisi-
ton of a new one.
There is no more paucity of inyen-
ton in blouses this year than last.
France and America have both done
their best-and it is in this vast va
riety that evil possibilities lie. II
women could be trained to regard the
blouse as something fatal, unless well
chosen, they would go about the bust
ness of getting together half dozen
with the precaution and precision nee
essary when walking on Ice. They
would not buy georgette because it is
fashionable, tomato-red because 1t was
the style, nor would they choose gal
loon embroidery, shoe-lace braiding or
brass buttons because the designers
had chosen to exploit these caprices.
They would go among all the masses
of waists with the precision of a bird
flying to its nest. They would take
the nearest straight line to what they
want. If they did not find 1t they
would go elsewhere: If it was not to
be found in the shops they would have
it made by specialist or Il seamstress.
from well-consdered pattern.
The part of blouse that is very
often fatal is the collar. There are
few women who can stand more than
two types of neckline. A woman
should not rebel against this verdict.
She should accept it and thus elimi-
nate trouble. She should expert
ment with blouses that do not carry
either one of these necklines. She
must remember that no blouse is
worth its price if it hasn't the kind of
collar that offsets the neckline of her
coat She must also take well into
consideration the difference between
blouse which is to be worn RS a part
of costume topped by fur or cloth
coat, and one that is merely shirt
waist and part of a tailored suit
These are not all the requirements
for success In buying blouses. A wom-
an must have, or must acquire, a true
knowledge of the juxtaposition Of fab
rics. She must know what material
rial of her suit or her separate skirt
and top coat. For instance, georgette,
beaded In bold design, does not GO
with homespun or cheviot suit.
That is merely one example out of a
dozen or two others that could easily
be enumerated.
The truth about which Is
worth repeating because the fabric
plays so dominant role in separate
blouses this year-is that ii looks far
better as part of a costume than as
an addition to a coat suit. AS u pep
lum blouse worn with skirt of its
own color, or in harmonious contrast
to it, it is very good; not as good as
satin or silk jersey, but commendable.
1t may be ornamental. If one can adopt
that type of blouse, and even trimmed
with beads, which Is debatabe form
of ornamentation on a separate gar
ment, but not impossible for certain
types of women.
Because of the adoption of uniforms
through the war there Is a strong re-
crudeScence of the tailored linen
shirtwaist for women, especially in
horizon blue, shrimp pink and dead
white edged with color. These have
tucked fronts, long plain sleeves, regu-
lation armholes turnover cuffs with
link buttons. and the collar of
French student of the Second Empire.
Women have found that a rolling
collar with a slight bit OF starch, worn
with a cravat, is an attractive neck
line. Only the very young woman
with slim, smooth neck can attempt
the high turnover collar, either starch
ed or soft. Below a face that shows
the marks Of time this collar is impos-
sible.
6iouses as Part OF Costumes.
When the French designers made
the peplum blouse and then sat back
In watchful waiting for its success,
which took long to come, they created
something that was very worth while.
American women see the light today,
and they grasp with eagerness the pos
sihlllties Of this outside tunic blouse.
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