The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-20

~ was lOIcucOlileu. was itOL
aware that we had exhausted that
phase OF dressing since the armistice.
This is only another evidence OF the
lack of close cooperation between the
Paris designers and the American pub
lie. II France considers US a SUM-
ciently significant market for her
wares she should arrange some closer
affiliation between her work and ours.
One would think that the semi-an-
nual visits OF the American buyers
would form French opinion on a sound
basis. They should be able through
this medium to keep In close touch
with what the American women have
exploited and exhausted.
If they do not care to cater to our
special social and climatic conditions
that is a different question. Then they
can throw into the market whatever
they wish, and we can pick and choose
according to our needs and desires. But
Paris does not seem to be unaware
of the tremendous strength given her
designing by our ability to go into
the market and pay big prices for what
she creates. for whenever our buyers
go abroad and fail to buy in a lavish
manner she Is inclined to be irrt-
tated and disappointed.
When che made a great number Of
her evening gowns out of costly metal
lie fabrics, such as brocade with silver
designs, cloth of gold and silver, coll
ored aluminium cloth and gauze with
bullion embroideries, she was merely
repeating what the American woman
had worn since November; in fact
what she had worn I'm too generous a
manner before We went into the war.
The buyers could not see any reason
for indulsing in the vast expenditures
| necessary for bringing home gowns Of
such costly fabrics to the American
| public, who, to use its curt and slang
! expression of the pavements. would
pass II by and say: "Old stuff"
The social season in Paris and Lon
don, in Rio de Janiero and Buenos
Ayres, opens in April and the women
may demand these frocks Of gorgeous
| medieval weaves: but We on this vast
continent have finished our ceremonial
social season which, because of the
armistice, reached a supreme brilliancy
last winter. Therefore We want
gowns that are suitable for warm
nights and for the large number Of in
formal dinners and country house par
ties that constitute our form Of gay
ETY. from April to November
| We have thrown aside the trappings
| Of the conqueror and taken up the
colors OF the butterfly, and our eve
ming clothes will.b built with this in
mind. They are to be translucent, II
not TRANSPARENT We will continIie m
wear the negligent drapery above the
waist that has characterized our
clothes for five years. and we will
make ourselves gay with accessories
that lend vivid coloration 70 our gowns
1t is we'll that the shops have a
plentiful supply OF what Is needed by
our women for the next six months
In their hours Of ease and gayety. We
can follow the French models or go
ahead with our splendid and fruitful
effort at independence. We will use
| tulle, miles OF tulle. II Is to be en-
broidered It is to be covered with
little dangling ornaments, after the
fashion which Nine. Renee created in
Paris and which this country has fol-
lowed in so whole hearted a fashion
before summer breaks. We will use
bands. tassels, braid and lace OF bull
ion, provided it is put on a tulle or net
foundation. We will give to rhine
stones as warm a welcome as though
the name were French and not Ger
man. 1t Is a wonder by the way. that
Paris hasn't changed the name Of her
most beloved ornamentation.