davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1919-12-12

place, The various health agencies will
have definite obiectiyes according 10
the particular problem they set for
themselves 10 solve"
Evening journal., 1919-12-12

provision Of pure w0rter and pure milk
so. while each city and rural COM
munity viii have defnllo objective
the most vital need In that particular
The sun., 1919-01-19
Crepe de Chine. Handkerchief Linen
and Georgette Fabrics Most Used

sorts of vagaries with its collar
sometimes high. sometimes low.
square. round OF V shaped. Often
pieated ruffle, which outlines the cuffs.
the turned down collar anu forms the
daintiest of trimming straight down
the front. Again tho crepe de chine
blouse buttons right up to the ears,
and has only tiny crepe buttons by
way of ornamentation.
Pushing this fabric a close second
for favor come the new models In
wash satin, china silk and georGette.
We see fewer of the chemise blouses
as yet, with their elongated hens
belted in and woven over the skirt. |
find at least one entirely new model
of the slip over type and 20 made that
the back Is exactly Ike the front, both
being trimmed with the finest filct lace
set in a panel in the front and cor
respondingiy in the back. The wide
collar which envelops the low, round
neck has three square scallops piped
with satin. The cuffs turn back on
the three quarter sleeve. all square to
match the scallops of the neck, piped
also with white satin and trimmed
with wee satin buttons.
This is the sort Of blouse which is
quite handsome enough to be worn
with skirt Of the same material. SIM
ply fashioned. and thus presenting the
appearance of a one piece frock OF
georgette.
Cluny lace is in high favor again
as trimming for these new models,
and iilet still holds the place always
It's own-in the first ranks. Nalen-
ciennes appears often--in fact. this
dainty lace, having had a rest for sew
eral years, Is being brought out again
None Of the mesh laces Of fine texture
has ever been able to take It's place
and thus entirely supplant it, though
| there have been seasons when the
The sun., 1919-01-19
IN WORLD OF SOCIETY

second dinner Of the season on Monday
at Mollats restaurant in West Forty
ninth street Officers OF the club include
Mrs. Thomas Slack, Mrs. f. NJ. Mckee.
Mrs Madeleine Krope and Mrs. John
Francis Iawger, vice.Cresidents; Mrs.
Frank Fallen. corresponding secretary {;
Mrs. y. W. Loeb, recording secretary !:
Miss Laura A. Charsley, treasurer Miss
Edythe Totten, chairman OF auditing
committee, ana Airs. 'Noack Fique. his
torian.
AZ the business meeting held last
Thursday at Hotel Aston by the Con-
gress OF States Societies the election OF
representatives to the convention of the
New York City Federation resulted as
follows: Delegates. Mrs. A. A. Munro,
The sun., 1919-01-19
DAYS FASHION
Large, Dropping Brims Feature Those
Designed for Southern Wear, and
Elaborate Trimmings Rule

and rolling brims, which flare away on
one side and cover the face well on
the other.
MORE ribbon Is much used TO trim
both satin and straw hats, just as It
was last year MORE never seems TO
lose its charm and is used successfully
season after season
Many mushroom hats appear.
naturally intended for purely sun
wear. They have n simple trimming
Of only n narrow black or dark blue
ribbon band. though some are show
ing u knot of Belgian, French or Eng
fish or American colors cleverly
caught in the how OF the rtbbor which
proves what / said In the beginning
that 1t will be a long time indeed be-
fore we get entirely away from the
events through which we have just
passed and n long time indeed before
the fashion makers omit some remin.
iscent military note.
The sun., 1919-01-19

Mrs. G. +. Marsh and Mrs. +. Il. Brad
ner, with Mrs. f. J. Leser. Mrs. II. w.
Stevens and Mrs. Reynolds Whitney, al
ternates.
The programme was conducted ny
Mrs. Alexander A. Munro. Tho States
repre- sented were Maine. Pennsylvania
Ohio. IA, sas, North Carolina, New Jer-
se,. Alabama. New York. Kentucky,
California, Missouri, Michigan. Ne
braska, Oregon. Illinois. Wisconsin.
Washington. Arizona, Montana and Yer
mont.
Trend OF the Times was the sub
iect at the regular meeting OF Ciio Cino'
Mrs James u. :Shipnan president. on
Monday afternoon at Hotel Astor. SUI
frage. prohibition and moral influence
of the war were also discussed The
musical part OF the programme was
given by Miss Ida Kellar, who sang
several songs. Mrs Frank Eugene
Thompson was chairman.
There was a large attendance at tho
first evening concert OF Beethoven So
ciety. Nine Tanini Tagl!avia president,
on Wednesday at the Hotel Plaza. Miss
Helen Marsh Of the Metropolitan Opera
House was the soloist. Louis Koemme-
Mich conducted TIE Beethoven Choral in
new part songs. During the intermis-
sion tho president received. Dancing
followed. The January meeting OF di-
rectors was held on Friday at the home
OF Mrs. Tagiavia. - West SEVENTY e
fourth street. An afternoon bridge party
for the benefit OF the war relief will be
held at the Plaza OF Friday. Mrs. Ca<i
Jungen and Mrs. Edward Hull Smith
will lie the chairmen.
/ 1.-The Riddle: Woman" was discussed
by the Theatre club, Mrs, John Hubbard
Parker president. AZ the study day on
/ Tuesday at the Hotel Aston. Members of
the club are st,il knitting socks The
direct war relief work under the chair
manship OF Mrs. G.. NJ. Clyde goes ON
also.
The Mary Fisher Home will have It's
annual authors matinee on Friday at
the waldorf-Astoria.
: On saturdav afternoon At the Wal
dorf-Astorta a large benefit bridge party
! will be given by the Ursuinc Provincial
Auxiliary.
For the benefit Of its philanthropic
fund the West End Noman's Republic
can Association, Mrs 4. Edward Lich-
tenheim president, gave a card party on
Tuesday afternoon at the home Of Miss
NJ Moss 2l7 West 10Th street. The
association met on Thursday at the Hote
! As+or. when delegates and alternates
were elected for the New York City Fed
Grafton Of Women's Clubs convention.
'Migron" In French Is tho opera
chosen for the nth annual performance
of the National opera club, Nine Kath-
crime Evans Won Eleuner president. on
/ January 50 at the Waldorf \ Storia.
/ Among those who will appear are Nine
Carmen PasCoNs. Nine. Clementino De
We're Sapo and Mime Bernice De Pas
qualc. The performance Will he fol-
! lowed h. dancing. Tickets may he had
from Mrs. Lee Schw,igcr, is West
| Twenty fifth street
! AN Appeal from a Stricken LAni-
was the subject ~ An address ny
| Bishop Luther +, Wilson of the Metho-
dist Episcopal Church on Friday at a
meeting OF the New York Auxiliary OF
the American Mc.tll Assoc alton at the
| Hotel Ansonia. George r. Barry told
OF condition Iu Lille after tho evacua.
The sun., 1919-01-19

ers made entirely OF the fronds. the
ends of which are caught and fastened
so that there arc no ends at all.
One Of the prettiest of the satin hats
about which / talked Inomen; ago Is
small black affair, like a much en-
larged thimble. with an upturncd hrim
Of these feather fronds. which show no
ends, but make the softest of trim
ming SO close to the face.
Velvet is going on into The summer
beyond a doubt, as it now appears
stitched into a large brmmed Leghorn
and having for its only trimming one
very large yellow velvet flower. The
The sun., 1919-01-19

ment is that OF having sweater. hat
and para sol TO match, the hats with
very wide brims are so pretty when
accompanied thus. I have been think
ing in this connection that women
might we'll be divided into two dis
tinct classes-those who wear the
close fitting. tight toques and those
who always appear in large hats.
Now. n large hat is not always easy
to wear and seldom has the jaunty,
picturesque look the small chapeau
gives. Almost any woman. given
youth. spirit and n passable amount
OF looks, can coquc;te with n small
The sun., 1919-01-19

brim is of the wide picture type so
we'll suited to tall women. COM
panion hat to this is 6f lavender vel
vet in very narrow rows, each stitched
above the other until the entire hat is
covered after the manner of the little
ribbon sport hats Of pink and blue so
much in vogue last season.
Lavender. by the way, is one OF the
desired shades just now and new
shade bordering somewhat on the
lavender. though with much more red,
is called the "Nictory" shade. This,
too, has been made up into smart
small toques for the in between
season. Quilted satin crowns are
lovely and new and hat brims faced
with fuzzy white angora or brush WOOL
with crowns and top brim OF straw
Of some lovely pale shade, such as
pink, blue and lavender, are the
sweetest, most becoming hats i'm
aginable. OF course they have wide
The sun., 1919-01-19

Irish crochet, the flets, clunys and
even the point de paris have seemed
more fashionable. .-..-
One OF the handsomest georgette
blouses have yet seen has two wide
plastrons Of heavy duchess lace. and
this OF course is intended only for the
most elaborate occasions, when the
fine barnnet satin skirts and wide
flower trimmed hats are worn.
Undoubtedly, as I said in tho begin
ming, one cannot find the spring blouse
too elaborate, but at that this same
profusion Of trimming does not mean
a cheap and tawdry look, but tho
elaborate effect is produced more in
the splendid texture of materials than
In the elaborate use Of them.
Marks Progress of Dress.
This Is curious TO note. for 1t shows
how ~ progress constantly. as most
womsn will remember VITA thankful
ness that the day is past when we
spend hours and hours tucking endless
fine tucks to be- placed between end
less rows Of lace for those first
lingerie" blouses OF the long ago. The
very word itself was new and strange
in those days, but like the blouse itself,
which has become an indispensable
part of our warr1robes, lingerie is a
word impossible to do without.
AS to the waists of wash materials,
one is bewildered at the variety to
choose from, as every sort Of wash
fabric has been employed for their
making, both in the colored and white
fabrics.
Voila has proved itself SO satisfac-
tory that many OF the finest blouses
OF to-day are made up in this material
and left untrlmmed. as TIE sheer
beauty Of the voilo is thus left to speak
for itself And here, too, I note an
effort to introduce the old time button
In the back model. This sort OF blouse
The sun., 1919-01-19
By MARTHA CooDE ANDERSON.

LONG time ago, after one OF
"A their many wars. Berlin people
4 used to he terriflcaliy offended
by a song which had something to do
,n the refrain with a three cornered
hat and which kept repeating the
words:
My hat it has three corners,
Three corners has my hat;
Aud IL II has not three corners
Then is 1t not my hat.
This was sung 10 the tune Of The
Carnival Of Venice" and seemed al
ways to bring about indignation ana
resentment when sung in "a Prussians
presence. Anyway, II Is not the song,
hut the three cornered hat which con-
Germs us at this moment, for not since
the peach basket came and transfiXed
us by its radical absurdity has so pro-
nounced n shape been So In evidence
as is this little chapeau reminiscent
&c the Little Corporal.
OF course we knew il would be diff
cult for n long time TO come to get
away from the military note in much
OF her apparel, and l am sure every
WOHldn Will IcJOlCS III lHEo sduSS >
Jaunty three cornered affair on her
head. especially II there is the slight
est significance reaching TO Berlin.
The tricorne is almost universally
becoming and now with Him" COM
ing home again by the hundreds every
one of us has made mental resolve
Co look our prettiest and smile our
sweetest--if the three cornered model
helps assuredly it will be popular.
The most pleasing of these smart
models are made of satin, brown OF
black. and many have a frill of feath-
ers edging the brim and softening the
lines. The hat is a jaunty thing and
requires little trimming to enhance it
thus is added another charm.
Nothing Unusual These\Days.
Nowadays we are so accustomed to
straw hats and heavy furs companion
ing each other that we no longer mar
vel at the incongruity-why not?
Mllliners combine materials so cleverly
nowadays that 1t is quito possible to
buy a Chapeau and wear it straight
through the year. Witness in proof OF
this the tight fitting toques OF feathers
and birds, breasts and the vogue of the
Jet hat. Indeed jet bids fair to have
n rage which shall sweep all else be-
fore 1t. We hear rumors to that eff
feet from the Paris makers, and their
The sun., 1919-01-19
Smart Models Made of Brown or
Black Satin With Feather Edging
to Soften the Lines

sprinkling OF tulie with Jet landings
bespeaks the thing which is TO come.
Jet is servicea BILE. looks well, and
also IL cXpensive--and ! know OF no
more desirable attributes for u bonnet,
do you? | saw a trench hat the other
day mounted on vide jet brin. l
do not know how the wearer had sue
ceeded in getting the crown of the he'll
met battered into n shape becoming
TO her own lovely head--but there It
was even TO the chin strap, narrow
band of jet underneath the whitcst and
softest young chin. OF course every
body turned to look at the wearer,
scrutiny she bore without self-con-
sciousness, apparently.
The jet hat, TO return a moment
has not appeared here as yet except
when combined with tulle. as in 4
very wide brimmed picture hat which
has two very wide scalloped tlounces
outlined with small jet beads. The et-
feet is exquisite, for the beads catch
the light and give an airy look to the
tulle, as they arc set in singly and not
too close together. \ pretty fancy just
now Is that OF Jet trimmed bows Of
tulle introduced to remodel many Of
the winter toques, I dare say, as they
undoubtedly freshen up any hat and
bring it up to date.
Embroidered Flowers New.
One of the newest notions is tho
sat tin. silk or georgette hat embroidered
in'vboid satin flowers, poppics, large
roses and pansies. one such is made
of n dark blue satin latticeL over with
a blue satin straw, showing the en-
nroidered flowers between the straw
parricade. or course many of the
faced with straw. or the reverse is
true. though as often as not one finds
the hat entirely OF satin. MANY mil
liners are making very wide brimmed
hats with covering Of some striking
material and color and over this draw
ing a tight covering of thin georgette.
This ] find exploited we'll in a Ciel
blue georgette through which shows
lining Of heavy white embroidery in a
leaf design. The combination Is UNI
usual enough to attract instant atten-
ton, and is at the same time very
good. indeed.
OF course there is a tremendous
showing at this moment of the sports
hats and the delightful dropping
brims with trailing ribbons and pretty
pale flowers. intended to set off the
lovely, bewitching frocks for Southern
wear. The prettiest fad of the mo-
The sun., 1919-01-19

Dimity and dotted swiss blouses are
made up in smartly tailored waists
which button up to the chin and have
long sleeves and tight fitting cuffs.
So many women like this sort OF waist
for morning wear and for sports that
IL is a delight TO find it IN Lhese two
such cool and fresh materials.
The organdy waist. which vas
brought out some seasons ago, never
really caught on. though it was attrac-
tive in the rather vivid shades of blue
rose and canary. The organdy being
so transparent, though so delightfully."-
crisp, It looked particularly refreshing
for hot summer days. B.ouses made
Of it seemed practically two, as the
smoothest fitting and most perfect of
Innings only underneath could be per-
mitted.
II is the handkerchief linens which
have supplanted these Transparent,
beauties, and the linen lends all the
charm OF color which the crisp organ
dies presented. Many OF the white
linen waists have touches of color, as
for instance in one smart model which
has three strips OF color. ono below
the other and on each shoulder these
forming a sort of yoke. Very narrow
frills finish tho little yoke at thu
shoulders and trim the shallow, roun,
collar and the small cuffs
The sun., 1919-01-19
Continued from second p

Continued rom second rage.
he two Italian numbers by the National
Opera Club, under direction OF Romu-
ado Sapio, AZ original poem by Sig.
Alfredo No Viola. dedicated 10 the
club and read by Miss Mildred Holland
tenor solo by Sig Giuseppe NoEiiotti;
ITALY IN Literature and Art" hy Dr.
Luigi kovcrsi. lnoaolosu" nv Mimi
Agugiia, sp29sDo solo by Riauchrt
Cappelli, 'Esy s. the Masking b.
Lieut. Ninl -nzo Ludovici OF the Royal
Italian Mission riaro numbers by
Giuseppe Ado Randeygcr and Lieut..
Guido Tore reading from Benefits
IA Ceno dele Bofe" by Miss Ada
Sterling; a May sonshy George Harris,
Jr.. the Hymn Of Peace and Freedom.
in which Aldo ,Randeyger. Ferruccio
Corradett and the National Opera Club
chorus will he heard.
Guests OF honor vii include Col ugo
Pizzareilo. chevalier o. the Military Or
der OF SavoY ara president ~ the
Italiana Irredenta Mission in America .
Lieut. Angelo Fanclu Royal Italian Ar
tillery; capt. Mario Cobianetie and Sig
Fernando CARP, metropolitan Opera
! Company.
4 substantial sum was realized for
war relief work by the W tory supper
| dance given reently by Athene Club
! Mrs. Katherine 4. Martin president, at
! the Waldorf Astoria. Mrs. Martin, as
: sisted ny the of icers, received. Auong
! the guests were Count Reginald Ward
Count and Countess Bruno S!etta OF
! Italy, Lieut. Joseph Dobelle, Lieut.. Henri
! Boult of France, Lieut. Il. :. Richards
Ensign Lord, l.. 5. y; Prof Walter
f; Douglas, Mr.. and Mrs Howard Peterson
! Judge and Mrs James T. Nicmann
| Nine. Tagliac TaEliav!a, Mr.. and Mrs
: Neptune Smyth, Mr.. and Mrs. James r
Staples Mr.. and Mrs. George a. Brand
, Mrs. Edward Il. jerks, Mr.. and Mrs
| Alonzo T, Dayton, Mr.. and Mrs. Jack
| son Il. Sells. Mr.. aud Mrs Chester Il
| Fumer, Ms. Frank * Brewster. Mr.
and Mrs. Frank l.. Chapman, Mr., and
! Mrs Album Williams, Calvin Victor
Campbell, Mr.. and Mrs Joseph DIdier
| Mr. and Mrs. Jean Chanveau, Mr. and
! Mrs +. =, Rcecham, nr and Mrs, Bono
stowe and Mi, and Mrs James \, Corn
. ley
! The Post Parliament will. for its mex
regular session on Friday, hold parl!a'
! mcntary drill on public speaking a: Ho-
! TEL McAlpin, 1T will be conducted by
/, Mrs. Mortimer NJ. Mcuken. with Cora
! Wells TIow the president N the chair
| The meeting will open business az II
oclocN. guests to he admitted at II so.
The regular monthly meeting Of the
Society of New York State Women was
held on Monday at the Hotel Aston. Mrs
| Gerard Bancker, the president. called
| the business session at , O'Clock, and ar
hour later there was miscellaneou:
| programme. Mrs. Robins 4. Lau spoke
on New York State current events, Mrs
| Olive Stott Gabriel on her work al
chairman OF the unemployment commit,
tee, and Mrs. Thomas J. Vivian on the
Red Cross shop. There was also COM
uunity singing.
! At the business meeting Mrs Bancker
| Mrs. John c. Morrison and Mrs. Oscar
| D. Simmons were elected delegates &c
the convention of the New York City
! Federation of Womens Clubs to he held
| on February :. Mrs William d. Beam
and Mrs, r ]. Mcclure were elected al
ternates,
| The Woman's Thirteen Club. Miss
1 Henriette Strauss president, gave its
The sun., 1919-01-19

ton. Mrs. Frank r. Kelley, vice-presi.
dent, presided.
At the annual meeting OF the New
York Philanthropic League OF the United
Order Of True Sisters. Mrs. Julius Rarsn
president, on Friday afternoon at Licking
ton avenue and Sixty-third street. ar
rangements were made for an entertain
ment and dance 10 be held at the Hn'ti
Aston on March %. The speakers we've
Mrs. John Francis Yawger and Mr% \
NJ. Palmer.
Women OF the Re dCross Auxiliary
No 223, composed OF members OF tn.
New York Theatre Club. Mrs. Belle de
Rivera president and Mrs. Dudley Van
Holland recording secretary. are holding
daily meetings at the Hotel Astor to
carry on tho work among the eoldiers
and seamen.
School children and Boy Scouts IN
Greenwich Village have begun a cam.
paIgn to raise funds for the Social Ser
vice Committee OF st. Nincent's Hos
pital in order that the organization NAV
he able to continue it's relief work among
the families OF men in the service. The
drive will eliminate in thousand hand
card party at tho waldorf-Astoria or
January 2S Mrs. Charles Murray is
chairman. while the patronesses include
Mrs. Alfred J. johnson. Mrs. George 7
Gillespie. Mrs. Kate Donohue and Mn.
]. II. O'Connell.
What About ireland" was the topic Of
the address OF Justice Edward ]. Gave
gan of the Supreme Court on FRIDAY
morning at the Hotel Biltmore at the
meeting OF the Woman's Forum, Mis-.
- IL
Isabel Thorpe sang a group Of songs
Mrs. Charles S. Whitman has beer
elected vice-president.
Pleiades Club will give a costume
dance at the Hotel Brevoort on st. VA
entine's eve, February IS. Onward p
Foley will be chairman.
philippine Night" will be celebrate
by the University Forum OF America on
Tuesday evening at 'ts headquarters, 2os
West Ninety third street The chairrsn
will he Alexander Cumming, president
and the hostess will be Mrs. Newton W
Gilbert. Judge Newton w. Gilbert will
give the address OF the evening Mr..
Owen Kildare will give a reading on tn.
Hawaiian national poem aloha o.
C"Greetings"), and Miss Anna Massin,
soprano. will sing.
y victory dinner udnCe VIII De gwen
by the forum on January IS in the ball
room of the Hotel DIES Artiste.. West
Sixty-seventh street. Among the guests
will be James Bliss Townsend and NJ
and Mrs. Coburn.
At the Assembly dance ot the forum
last Tuesday the hostesses were Mrs
Arthur r. Pratt. Mrs Frank HAZEL Miv
Emma Maak Miss Gladys Grace Ry-or
Miss Marie I. Adams and Miss Ernes.
tine T. Dab.c.
The latest addition 70 vomen's c'uh.
Is the Mills College Alumna Associate
which has for members the graduates -
Mills College Of California. which eix'v
years ago WAS known az young lad.s-
seminary. The officers Of the arsor..-
| ton IL New YORK ARE Mrs Jane Sevroo p
h..nE president ltss Florence O.,".
! Iico president. and Mrs, FToreroe Hare. =
Love, secretary and treasurer. Tnc g.gn
meets monthly, AZ tine nome Of its me-.
hers. the last meeting being n the Fo--s
OF Mrs. Thomas Taylor 81 West Nlnet.
ninth street. which was reunion =
reception in honor OF the presden' g.
Mills college, DIR. Aurelia ReirharGt
The sun., 1919-01-19

Women OF the Re dCros. Auxiliary
No 223, composed OF members OF tn.
New York Theatre Club, Mrs. Belle de
Rivera president and Mrs. Dudley Van
Holland recording secretary, are holding
daily meetings at the Hotel Aston to
carry on tho work among the soldiers
and seamen.
The sun., 1919-01-19

n TOT since the lingerie blouse
first appeared some ten or
= more years ago has it attained
fuch elaborate trimming as the new
spring models display. A charming
array of tucks Cleverly set in with
Lands of lace and ornamented with
embroidery makes the sort Of blouse
that artists of dainty dress admire
Undoubtedly the sheer and beau
tiful blouses are to be worn more
than ever and those who prophe-
sled their disappearance from the
snartly gowned woman's wardrobe
j I've prophesicd in vain II we judge
nv the great assortment just now
brought out.
Indeed, ST.. lovely are some OF the
new models that 1t Is possible TO
achieve n whole frock by the addition
o. a simple skirt of crepe de chine,
@ Their flesh or white. 1t has come to
b. an accepted fact that crepe de
Chine launders so We'll that many
women prefer blouses Of this mate
raj because Of it's enduring qualities
in place of the fine batiste ana hand
kerchief linens. Crepe de chine is
very soft. lends itself eXcellently to
trimming and, having more substance
than georgette, is considered a better
anyestment, besides doing away with
the necessity for an extra lining, so
imperative a. requirement Of the thin
ner georgette.
Must BE immaculate.
OF course the charm OF all blouses
lies in their immaculate whiteness and
freshness. and this is something so
easily attained that this also pleads
the cause of crepe de chine. The
simplest designs are very smart and
the blouse OF the moment plays all