Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1919-01-26

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are getting the new. brilliant ribbons
exploited by the French designers;
these are used as a facing to the edge
or the coat. and women run them on
py hand down the front, around the
hem and at the edge of the sleeves.
The Roman striped ribbon has re-
turned to fashion along with the other
vivid colors and 1t goes exceedingly
blue cheviot.
Apart from the tapestry Innings the
novelty OF the hour Is the usage Of
COTTON coat interiors. France started
this fashion as measure of economy.
but the price that one pays for q coat
that has this lining does not suxres0
anything but extravaganza However.
win - w
1t is one OF the few things that have
cropped up out Of the war as an ac.
tual surprise. 1t Is difficult to and q
time In the history of dress when the
commonest cottons were used for the
Think expensive EXP jacket materials.
ahInk. Tor instance. of Doucet using
unoleached muslin as a lining for &
Two hundred and fifty-doliar suitI
0tner designers use muslin with q
rs,ntey nguration in DUH colors The
put into short blue serge Jackets.
turkey red cotton is used for any
Goat even II cubist effect in colora.
ton liz the result
In coats. A group Of French and
american designers are lenRthenin4
the coat until 1t has the earmarks OF
a a., redIngote. 1t reaches to the hem q
tne snort French skirt. Americans do
not like long coats, and thew care fop
them less and less as the weather ads
vahces INTO spring warmth. They like
snort coats when the snow meits.
To suit this faction there are thous
sands who are putting out a fascinats
Ing array of little jackets. Many rips
pie from the shoulders, like capess
others are as straight as cuirass and
cut after the Cromwell and Stuart,
fashion, to open in front and show Q
frilled and fanciful blouse, and still
others are in slim. cuirass fashion
taken from the armor Of the seventh
century.
There are Jackets that make no pre-.
tense OF fastening in front because
they wish to give the blouse beneath
an opportunity to display itself. There
are others that are put on over the
the neckline through which the head
must go, and there are hip-length
Jackets that look like child's pima
fore, These also go over the head and
ripple out from the shoulders.
Women who wear these do not need
the fashionable advice not to remove
the coat in public. They couldn't do 1t,
The blouse is obliterated in these
tailored suits, and it's substitute is
loose China silk lining for those who
are slim, and tight, boned one OF
quilted silk for those who have large
curves.
The unheralded advent of leather
coats in the autumn fashions gave the
public a jolt and a surprise. 1t is.
whispered that even the designers
were not quite aware Of the strength
that the fashion would assume. Waist
coats of leather, jackets of leather and
FUR combined. were taken up by smart
women in war work and remained as
street costume for peace activities.
The idea brought about train OF
other ideas. Soft suede and pliable
leather have been brought out for
spring jackets. The suede Is dyed In
the spring colors. and one of new leaf
green which goes with a white crepe
de chine skirt is quite alluring. Such
combination is obviously intended
for southern usage, but the soft, black
leather coats with bright Innings are
intended for the streets of big cities.
They carry skirts of cheviot, serge
and heavy silk jersey. The latter is
again considered most desirable by
well dressed women.
Among the new ornamentatfons Is
openwork. This first appeared on one
piece frocks and has been passed over
to spring suits. There are coin shaped
openings finished with buttonhole
stitch down the edges of some coats,
and as finishing touch to the sleeves:
there are cretonne collars bound with
the material of the coat, and there are
loops and convolutions made of soft,
silk shoe laces.