The sun., 1919-07-06
Advance Guard
Of Fall Styles
Comes in Sight

nv early to speak OF fashions to
come when all Of US arc still
concerned with what is worn at this
moment, tho fact that the past month
has brought so many buyers back
from Europe makes the consideration
Of fall effects not only timely. but in
teresting as well
For the first time in several years
many houses have returned to their
pre-war custom Of sending representa-
tfves abroad, and we are told that the
Paris shops are so filled with shoppers
that one Is given a check with a num-
Der on 1t so that one has to wait ones
turn to be served.
Indeed. shopping abroad offers many
curious things. even more so in these
abnormal times than It always affords
to American travellers. For instance,
l am sure every one Of US has mar
yelled at the way the European mer-
chants do up parcels-or rather should
l say the way they do not do them UP
certainly a simple method when
compared with the complex layers Of
paper and boxers and outer wrappings
over here.
The Crfer ReturnS In London.
In one London shop at least the
methods Of n bygone day have been
employed when a crier went through
the shop calling out the fact that in a
certain corner Of the shop there was
plenty OF soap on sale. This Is inter-
esting only because soap has been one
or the things Europe has not had
p'entifully OF late years. and the item
telling OF this method OF selling 1t Is
more than passingly interesting.
However beautiful the French dresses
and gowns may be. the fact remains
| that the American coat suits outstrip
them in style and beauty also. Per-
haps this Is because no other women
wear coat suits quite so successfully
as DO the American. We need not look
| abroad, therefore, for cut and design
tot our winter suits. although We may
accept the lovely fabrics gratefully.
II Is said that our American maxi
ers promise longer skirts and there
tore three-quarter coat to top them,
The kimono sleeve is looming up to
replace the recent tight shoulders and
snug skin-tight sleeve. A new col
lar, saucer shaped. Is hero out OF
which We win lift our chins as we
were not able to do with the high
straight around affairs. The. saucer
collor fits closely around the throat
and at the top has q wider piece SO
made that It stands out and away
from the face In saucer fashion. II IL
often lined with a shade contrasting
well with the color OF the coat, but
like 1t best when this lining Is white.
Much embroidery Is to be used, We
hear. and buttons. too, and flying pam
els to give length. Indeed, some Of
these panels are most interesting, for
they float away apparently without
rhyme or reason from the top Of the
coat, but are really stoles to throw
around the neck and shoulders to give
extra warmth. Now and then they
are fitted on the under side with pock-
cts Of fur for the hands.
Not Forgetting the Pocket.
Lot me not forget the pocket. It
seems to be the supreme ornament
and is often a huge patch Of fur or a
tiny slit IN the side of the skirt or the
coat. Whatever the coat, cape wrap
or one piece dress may otherwise be
or have, be sure the pocket is there
somewhere. The vest will probably
disappear. as II has been rather over
done and We have tired of It In its
place fear we will have an influx Of
the Russian blouse or Cossack coat
since the manufacturers first show
ing OF models seems all to present the
full ovcrhangihg waist effect easily
obtained in this style OF coat. The
belt and sash will, doubtless because
OF this trend. play as important a part
as tbs pocket.
There has arrived a curious little
cape-scarf which seems to be catching
on rapidly. II Is made OF angora,
reaching 10 the hip line. where long
fringe ends finish the sides. The scarf
has sleeves set in like n big raglan and
the tops OF these cuffs are frequently
outlined with heather. the same strip of
leather In narrowest width forming the
belt for the scarf. The queer little
wrap at this season is used for motor
Ing ana DedCn wear ana because IL IL
so unusual and appeals to women who
like the novel will be accepted for
early fall wear in the country and for
sports
In this connection we hear over and
over that the cape will be superseded
by the redlngote and this is to be made
after the fashion of those huge great
coats We see in the illustrations OF
Dickens's novels In which the stage
drivers figure. The triple shoulder
capes top these long coats and the long
; lines are unbroken except where fitted
and belted in with n straight around
belt. The new fur capes or wraps for
the most part reproduce the dolman
lines. differing entirely from the short
straight around jsunty jacket effects
} OF last year or the longer hem length
coat.
Because OF the great cost or lns
; splendid furs from Russia. along with