Evening star., 1919-03-16

or saSheS of the material.
Whatever they may be in the front.
however. they are tight in the back
There Is no tendency toward uptilt-
ing in the back after the American
FASHION OF last summer The whole
movement is not only oriental, but
Alexandria in it's gory-of the ByZan-
tine era.
There are other skirts that are as
tight and straight as towel would be
pinned about the figure.
There are tunics on the new skirt.
but they are just across the front,
tight
All the sleeves in the Paris gowns
are short. No. not all. There are some
tween elbow and wrist. and others
that have the medieval length and are
stretched out over the hand.
Just what the American PUBLIC is go.
sleeves In street gowns no dress
maker speaks with authority. Gloves
are scarce and excessively expensive.
1t is not according to the American
arms uncovered during the day. al
though we have adopted the French
fashion of not wearing gloves in the
evening. To ask women to provide
themselves with quantities of long
gloves in order that they may have
the arms covered from morning until
night is putting burden upon their
purses that might be the straw on the
camels back.
1T is good guess that the bulk Of
the American public will simply re-
fuse the short sleeve as it refused the
short skirt last October. 1t is true
that three-quarter sleeve requires
large number Of gloves also but there
length and even knuckle-length
sleeve to which the American woman
Is accustomed.
1t would be sad day indeed II we
were to return to the fashion Of ten
years ago. when women in every class
Of life thronged the streets with their
shirtwaists cut off above the elbow
and their bare arms and hands pro-
truding. 1t not only looked disorderly,
1t was certainly uncleanry.
The world thought that fashion had
intended to keep dark blue serge on
the shelf. 1t put it there last autumn
and gave no evidence that it would
come back into its own. Jersey, silk
age gown. and a material called gabar-
dine was used when a lightweight
cloth suit was needed.
The public had accustomed itself to
the thought that dark blue serge was
to be withdrawn from the arena Of
fashions, and had turned Its attention
in other directions, when here comes
Paris with quantities of blue serge
kOWnS IndOe III SlTnpI0 anu IdutAStlC
ways. The majority will be glad.
Dressmakers are also happy whenever
this fabric is reinstated, for it Is sim
pie to get and there is little criticism
against II.
They have had a serious time with
the various wsaves exploited by the
manufacturers In the last two win
ters; velours, duvetyn. imitation fur.
caracul cloths We're agreeable to sight.
but they did not always give the serv-
loo hot hn{r Nrtp MT "a N
were unhappy over frocks that looked
as though they were ready for the
ragbag before they had given six
weeks service.
Nelveteen was probably the chief
offender OF the winter. and women
who paid huge prices for gowns of 1t
found that its surface rubbed off in
a month of usage, and that 1t was
spotted like a leopard where its nap
had rubbed away.
The dressmakers know that serge
will not bring out any of the protests
that have been hurled against the
winter fabrics. and therefore they
are happy to put their ingenuity into
the draping and adornment of the
fabric without perpleNing their brains
as to its quality.
Every one knew that taffeta would
be accentuAted as q fashion for the
spring. We have had Remarkably
lovely gowns Of it since December.
France sends over Il variety of cos
tunes In this special kind Of silk
which serve from 10 o'clock In the
morning until 12 at night. In dark
colors 1t makes a morning street
frock: in figured weave 1t serves for
the afternoon. and in pastel shades 1t
takes it's place for the evening.
1t will probably usurp the place of
satin. of metallic cloths, OF rich col
ored velvet for evening apparel Its
coloration is superb. 1t takes all the
new shades with success.
Bullion lace, fantastic. amazing rib
bons. strands Of crystals and precious
lace are used to make 1t more brill
liant The supple weave that is pc
culiarly French is combined with voile
and serge for one-piece frocks
So far the importations from Paris
have not exhibited any special stress
upon satin as the favored fabric. There
are gowns of 1t. here and there. and
1t Is used in combination with other
fabrics. but II remains tritie OBJ
scure. Taffeta in Its new form is an
aggressive fabric.
1t has invaded the field OF millinery.
and In brilliant green it bursts forth
in hats and parasols.
There is no tendency on the part of
Paris to diminish the prestige Of silk
Jersey. 1t again appears as fabric
for effective frocks, although the
Americans have used II IN common
place way for two years.