Great Falls daily tribune., 1919-08-17
|N|ER|CANS bALk
|AT PARIS GOWNS
ONE IS bACKLESS
Also Object to Short
Skirts; Styles Very
Feminine.
I'M OF CONTOUR|ERs
To SHOW SOFT CONTOURS

Paris. Aug. 16.-The first great dis
lev of styles in Paris since the war be-
an is being attended by about 1900
merican buyers, who have showed
themselves to be more independent of
he dictation Of French dressmakers
han ever before.
Brown, according to the news, is again
be in marked favor. Flounces, pan
iers and the design Of the new models
end toward the strictly feminine ap-
earance. There is not the slightest
emblance Of masculine, as has been IN
be past.
Clinging skirts hanging seven to eight
hches from the ground are the rule.
american buyers, the dressmakers say.
re ridiculing the shortness of the
owns. although admitting American
kirts are not long. Likely American
Eomen will be offered compromise IN
ength. A prominent American buyer
aid today:
American Ankles SIandered.
mo we'll dressed American looks well
a a really long skirt" but he laughed at
n dressmaker's suggestion that Ameri-
ans want long skirts because American
vomen do not have pretty ankles.
american women have the prettlest
Inkles and feet in the world" the buyer
aid, "and they are also best shown, put
hey realize the extreme shortness OF
he skirts and are educated enough to
|eleve in modesty."
Although the Americans designed their
pwn styles to great extent during the
var, they apparently are finding much
hat is worth while in the Paris display
rooms.
Brown, the buyers say, is shown in a
Eariety of shades, buck, terra Gotta and
burnt. They are shown in soft shades
bf grey, raven blue, and moles.
Aim to Show Soft Contour.
Models who are displaying gowns in
The drawing rooms of the dressmakers
10 not wear corsets and are making
livery effort to present the soft contour
pf their figures.
They generally show a slight feni-
hineness in the form Of solft panniers,
with pleats and accordion pleats.
Flounces are applied in such a way as
10 preserve the outline Of the figure and
The straight hem of the skirt.
I Collars are hid in many cases and are
adjusted so that they may be buttoned
close to the throat.
Some Dick Turpin Lines.
Woolen embroideries, flat paillettes
|hnd a metallic embodiment of leather
PORN the trimmings for afternoon frocks,
the majority Of which are made with
coats to match. The coats are trimmed
with furs, moufon, mole, mink, kolinskin,
|muskrat and skunk.
All mats are soft and where flounces
|are introduced they are set on Innings
|of chiffon to insure sloping lines. Vel
|veteens, soft serge, velour, delaine. chif-
|fon and plush are used with great ef-
6ectiveness in gowns and costumes.
Coats with afternoon costumes come
bust below the hips and follow Dick
|Turpin lines by means Of girdle.
|Skirts are narrower at the feet, giving
Ia peg top suggestion. Fur collars reach
Ito the eyes.
Battle Over Backless Gowns.
American buyers say they are having
almost a battle with Partisan dress
makers over the backless evening gowns
|offered, which the Americans are insist
lent upon having filled with lace, to the
|amazement Of the French designers who
Ito display their wellformed backs.
Soft net, tulle and lace are used ex
tensively over charmeuse and chiffon for
evening gowns and trimmings Of gold
threads, paillettes, jet, silver tissue,
dhenille and plush are much used. The
plush in these trimmings is worked up
to represent soft fur. Black and gold,
raven blue, mole and cinnamon are the
prevailing colors for evening gowns, but
delicate pompeian blue and pinks with
silk paillettes are shown often among
girls. Many gowns Of gold tissue are
displayed.
Hats for fall and winter are both
large and small, but in all cases will
frame the face. Velvet is the most pop
ular fabric for hats and trimmings that
will be features include ospreys and
monkey furs.
Suspects INc[NlIhRIcM