davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Summer Models Offer Wide Choice in
Styles, Colors and Material
Waistcoats Disappearing

lowed to fall in gracefully negligent
folds around the shoulders as &C.
easion demands.
This cape Is displayed at its best
in two toned combinations Of one ma
terial or in different fabr cs of identi-
al color. 1t is handsomely developed
In navy blue serge and satin or In
castor trlcolette and duveteen, while
our sketch shows a charmingly sum-
merry combination Of beige and navy
blue silk poplin. Reversible satins
are also made up after this fash on
There is a peculiar smartness about
the circular three TERED capes, and
there are capes on straight lines also
with three tiers, the extremely wide
cape collar which falls we'll below the
shoulder line forming the upper tier.
These capes are at their best In
Poiret twill or gabard'ne, but II is
only fair to say that the useful navy
blue serge cape has been relegated to
the background which useful Old
friends are 20 frequently required to
grace.
In dealing with the summer cape
there g not much to be said OF woollen
fabrics except as they are used in
combination with silken stuffs or in
their unchallenged field. the sports
OUTFIT.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
TRAIN lCIr FAIR AS AN
BTrr' s. rcpc

No class of people devotes as
much time to beauty as do actresses,
and no class must be more careful
to retain and develop their charms.
Inquiry develops the information
that in hair care they find it dan
gerous to shampoo with any make
shift hair cleanser. The majority
say that to have the best hair wash
and scalp stimulator at a cost of
about three cents, one need only get
a package of canthrox from your
druggist; dissolve a teaspoonful In
a cup of hot water and your sham
poo is ready. This makes enough
shampoo liquid to apply it to all the
hair instead Of just the top Of the
head. After it's use the hair dries
rapidly, with uniform color. Dam
druff, excess oil and dirt are quickly
dissolved and entirely disappear
when you rinse the hair. After this
your hair will be so fluffy it will look
much heavier than it is. It's luster
and softness will delight you, while
the stimulated scalp gains the health
which insures hair growth.-Adv.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
FABRIC HATS IN FOREGROUND
OF DAME FASHIONS PICTURE

a fold and they are nearly always
crowned or wreathed about by flowers
or fruit or both In exquisite shades.
Sprayed with Flowers.
Frequently little toques OF seor-
gette are sprayed over their entire
surface by small. fragile flowers such
as Scotch heather. and an extremely
smart toque shape In georgette Is
shown In the sketch. OF palest canary
yellow. its entire crown is covered
with the tiniest Of yellow wings which
seem just on the point Of flying away.
This is the place to speak OF the
rather interesting fashion the milliners
have adopted OF letting loose whole
coveys of hats In one striking and
unusual color. In the very nature of
things this scheme is carried out
largely by means of the fabric hat
with the assistance of feathers. Such
luscious colors as orange. salmon.
canary and a pale blue-green are the
most striking tints used.
There Is a limited popularity for
ribbon hats. but interesting hats are
produced In grass cloth In broad
brimmed shapes lined with georgette
In a contrasting shade. In twisted tur-
bans and In sport shapes embroidered
in woollen threads.
Hats in linen, in Bingham, In Eng
lish calico, are smart accessories for
.he country wardrobe. as are the OK
quisite little hats Of dotted swiss
One Of these with cherry red spots is
bound and tied with a narrow picot
dyed cherry ribbon. Another with a
violet spot has a violet satin ribbon
ted about the crown in huge bow
White null hats are trimmed merely
with their own frills and often have
rarasois to match.
The one time favorite, the white
ace hat, seems to be on the verge OF
revival The hat In Venetian lace
Nown in the sketch IL an example OF
this typ&
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Georgette With Fur Trimming Makes
One of Smartest Wraps in
ThistledoWn Class

wear spell summer In every lustrous
length Of trieolette OF satin and In
the crisp and sprightlv folds Of MORE
or taffeta. Satin is often used in COM
binations with wool, either duveteen,
gabardine or wool jersey. The upper
part of the cape Is usually OF satin
with a broad band Of the woollen fab
rio at the lower edge. Often the col
lar Is of wool, but frequently Of fur.
| A delectable cape of this type has
the lower half of beige wool Jersey,
the upper half of brown satin and the
collar Of summer ermine.
| Satin as well as taffeta IL sometimes
reduced to the severe cut of tire three
TERED cape, but II is at its best in the
more suave and gracious lines Of the
draped models. One very lovely cape
OF double faced satin has a long scarf
front and is gathered at the shoulders
with a small outstanding frill. The
soft, dull blue of the under side is
turned back in a wide fold at the neck
and down the front over the navy blue
of the exterior.
Attractive satin capes in henna,
black or blue show the plainness of
their surface broken by roundabout
gathered inserts Of georgette.
Capes of tricolette, often gathered
into wide bands Of duveteen or gabar-
dine of the same shade, have a great
deal Of distinction. Both the plain
and fancy weaves are employed, and
In the latter case the trimming of wool
fabric Is frequently omitted, while a
fur collar gives the accent of weight
and substance which most summer
capes seem to require as q need OF
their being.
A changeabls taffeta cape in shades
Of red. brown and blue is a noticeable
exception to this rule. Its quantity
gathered and frilled body is topped by
a yoke in which delicate dull gold
embroidery plays an important part
Capes Extraordinarily Smart.
Extraordinarily smart capes are de-
veloped in MORE silk in navy, black
brown or castor and nearly always
with the all but inevitable fur collar
One in black has superimposed upon
its MORE surface brocaded satin fig
ures, the CLINT of which. added to its
squirrel collar. completes a cape dis
| tlnRulSHeu enough TOT any OCCdSlOn.
What might be called the apotheosis
of the summer cape is now coming
very much to the fore in all the more
exclusive shops. These exquisite and
fragile garments have little to recon-
mend them except sheer charm. Ex-
travagant they are to a degree, both
In the initial cost and in perishability
and as to warmth, two thicknesses of
georgette provide but scant protec-
ton even to the most imaginative
They are like Lucy Lockett's pocket
which had nothing in 1t but the bind
ing round II. and depend altogether
for substance on the landings and
mountings of fur which do their ut
most to hold these thistledown gar.
ments near the earth.
Usually two slightly contrasting
shades Of georgette are mounted one
on the other. the resulting shade
blending perfectly with the fur trim
ming, which 1t applied with varying
degrees OF lavishness.
Sometimes the fur trimming con
sists OF a wide stole which extends
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

from hem to hem about the necl, .,
full length garment, the hem ava
armholes Of which are also edged v,,S
fur. Sometimes 1t is no more thai
many narrow lines of fur set at into,
walls about the nem and neck OF n
mantle.
A wrap of this sort shown in ,ho
sketch Is Of brown tulle, mounted M
brown georBette with puffings of tbo
tulle between the narrow lines OF inv
Furs That Are Used.
Moleskin. summer ermine, seal. mn.
tria and squirrel are the furs usual,
employed In the development Of the,s
charming garments, though a lonssr
haired pelt is used for the very mar.
row fur bands.
One Of these georgette capes which
departs slightly from the types al.
ready described Is a three-ouartor
length model in blue over purple. tho
edge being weighted by heavy
lnotted silk fringe of the two shades
This cape IL provided with a gray
squirrel collar.
Short hip length georgette cape,
with armholes banded by fur to match
the deep collars are provided for those
who have a weakness for these in.
triguing little affairs.
In fact the very short cape-wra I,
also developed in watered silk, taffet,
blue serge and tricolette, frequently
with fur collars. but many times with.
out. Most of the short capes have n
demure mid-Victorian charm which
would have won them the approval
Of our much and often shocked grand.
mothers.
Especially may this DO said Of the
little black taffeta or MORE wraps
with their quaint bindings and quill.
ings. There are also shoulder capes
Of lace which are reminiscent Of the
sloping shouldered '40s.
Bespeaking a very different ancestry
is the slightly barbaric cape o.
georgette completely covered with
diagonal rows of funny ostrich fiues
all In a brilliant blue and bound as to
neck and armholes with a silver edged
blue ribbon. H. haunts the usual sug.
geetion Of an Abyssinian Princess
which ostrich trimmings are apt 70
convey.
Gay silken capes in taffeta and fable
have been produced by the manufac-
turers, which have wide collars and
landings Of Angora wool in a con.
trasting but companionably gay tone.
The summer cape ia often unlined
| but frequently there is a lining OF plain
or printed chiffon or Of cotton wolfe.
Long and graceful capes Of black satin
have their elegant sobriety lightened
In a most piquant manner by a gayly
Powered chiffon lining.
An extraordinary French novelty
which will interest the daring woman
Is a large bla ck satin shawl edged
about by black fringe. This garment
launched by famous French beauty
is much too large to be called a scar.
and may be more Justly listed as q
cape. and more profltably, for the ar
OF wearing a shawl was lost long age
In Anglo Saxon lands.
Those who have travelled in spalr
or Spanish America have marvelled a.
the mysterious grace which a pla!r
black shawl can be made to lend III
wearer.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
fabric hat might be called

"HB fabric hat might be called
the pitfall Of the amateur mil
l. liner. Few indeed are the
women who have not been seized at
least once in their lives with the cree
alive impulse in regard to a few short
lengths of silk or muslin. a hat frame
and handful OF flowers and ribbons.
II looks the easiest task in the
world to produce a hat which shall al
least be modestly successful out OF
almost any bit OF left over material.
but It is only fair warning that how
ever much a Joy the fabric hat may be
in inspiration. In realization 1t Is
usually blank despair.
Once in a long time the amateur
discovers a hidden vein OF talent, but
all too often the only results are
pricked fingers. tears and trampled
finery. A sadder and wiser woman
realizes that the fabric hat requires
the full measure OF the trained milli-
ner's skill in the fashioning.
Holds the Foreground.
Whether owing to a scarcity Of straw
merely to decree OF fashion,
the fabric hat appears TO be occu-
plying the foreground OF the picture
during the late spring and early
summer.
Hats Of tulle. hats Of crepe de chine
or OF georgette crepe, grass cloth hats.
innumerable tafreta hats, hats OF lace
and purely summary hats OF cotton
fabric are making irresistible appeal
from every milliner's window.
The tulle hat we have had with us
all winter, but its extraordinary charm
makes 1t difficult to abandon. There
is no more becoming hat than the
tantalizing. tilted broad brImmed crea'
ton OF black tulle. crowned with fut.
tering ostrich flues or accented with
the extravagant thrust OF black para.
olSos -
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

A close toque OF pink roses COM
pletely surrounded by flaring Turk
ish turban OF black tulle has a curious
charm of its own. but 1t by no means
has the chic Of the closely folded snug
dark brown tulle turban with the
swirl OF brown paradise springing from
one side OF its front
A charming little poke shape formed
Of black tulle ruffies edged with Jet
and fastened under the chin by a tulle
strap Is crowned by pink taffeta rose
petals.
Taneta Hats in Favor.
Taffeta hats OF all shapes arc In
great favor. from the extremely broad
brimmed. picturesque Second Empire
shape with its dropping, wide black
lace edge to the small. low crowned
sailor. One black taffeta hat which
droops demurely at the sides Is gayly
decorated with trailing punches OF yell
low, rose and mauve flowers and has
In addition a blue ribbon about the
crown.
Taffeta hats of the taller crowned
persuasion are frequently decorated
with embroidery as their only trim
ming with the exception OF a narrow
ribbon tied about the crown. The en-
broidery may be in bright woods. but II
is more often In silken threads. raised
In hold relief, but Of the same color
as the taffeta, A hat OF this descrip-
ton in palest turquoise blue is partic-
ular pretty, and tafteta In pale colors
or white will OF course be more In de-
mand for summer resort wear than in
he darker shades.
Crepe de chine has a rather limited
fse for summer fabric hats. but
georgette crepe Is in high favor for
both large and small shapes az
nearly always in light and exquisite
oIors. The broad shapes usually have
dropping edge Of one thickness OF tho
| crGpe.. but they may be bound with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
By MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON

- EASON in and season out the
- cape fourisbes in undiininishcd
popularity. 1t is not often that
q conspicuous fashion such as this,
which quickly attained universal ia
,vor, survives for single season, much
less for the four we'll rounded ones
which the cape already has to Its
credit, as 1t enters on the summer
sclstice with a following as enthusiast
tic as ever.
There are capes long and short,
capes slim and straight or draped In
voluminous folds, three TERED capes,
riverside capes. capes In striking COM
binations of two materials in one
color or Of two colors in the same
material, curious and Interesting capes
Of silken stuffs, thick and woolly capes
and cobwebby sketches of capes In
georgette or tulle boldly accented with
fur.
One sees much less of the waistcoat
IN the summer cape models. It is hard
to tell whether the almost total elm
ination of this feature in all except
the strictly sports models is due to
the fact that its added warmth Is no
longer desirable or whether 1t has
been simply done to death.
Collar Arrangements.
The collar arrangement which wraps
around the neck in many folds is still
much In evidence. but there are capes
with Medici collars. capes with litted
yoke and high close fitting collar and
capes with no more collar than q band
, about the shoulders.
One Of the most useful cape models
has a very wide band Of the fabric
folded softly back across the front
from hem to hem. This can be gath
eeed snugly about the throat or al
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

For summer sports the strictly SER
viceab.e tailored capes Of English
worsteds and tweeds may be passed
over as year round standbys. but
capes Of homespun, dyed in soft fruity
colors, have by reason Of their light
open weave distinctly summary
place in the sports OUTFIT
Wool jersey still has a claim on the
summer sportswoman and capes OF
this fabric are frequently seen, the
most popular development Of this gar
ment being the detachable cape to be
buttoned beneath the collar Of a
sleeveless sports suit. white wool
jersey sleeveless sports suit has a
cape of navy blue wool jersey, with
white facinss buttoned back with
pearl buttons. This forms a very use
full as well as an undeniably attractive
costume.
A sports cape which Is compare
lively new and which will interest
many women is fashioned Of channel
iette. This wool fabric. apparently
knit by hand, but In reality q product
of the knitting machine. can be pur-
chased by the yard in a variety Of gay
and lovely colors. It Ii SO inches wide
and sufficiently expensive, but as capes
OF this type are cut very scant and
straight a large quantity Of the fab
ric is not required.
Marrow bands Or Angora knitted
wool may also be bought with which
capes and sports coats Of channellette
are bordered. collared and cuffed. A
cape has been designed for country
with bright Bingham. which has a
certain bizarre charm of It's own but
comes dangerously near being an ex-
centriclty.
Capes Of silken weaves for daytime
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

The broadening aspect Of American
social activities is best exemplifed in
the cosmopolitan atmosphere at
Churchill's. The brilliant uniforms OF
our own army and navy and Of for
eign officers, the formal evening gowns
semi-dress OF the gentlemen, all give
Churchill's much OF the appearance OF
a Partisan boulevard cafe. 1t remains
however. "a Broadway institution
and continues to be the resort Of the
smart Broadwayite and the fashion
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Pelham Heath Inn.

With the announcement by Harry
Susskind. proprietor Of Pelham Heath
Inn on Pelham Parkway. that next
Wednesday evening. May II. will wit
ness the opening Of the touring sea-
son along this popular highway and
also a celebration Of the third sue
cessful year OF his establishment, ad-
vance reservations indicate that mo-
torists will surely enjoy a gala night"
here. Broadwayites motoring to the
inn for this occasion are to be treated
with surprise In the way of enter
tainment and souvenirs during the
festivities. Al lockers and his versa
tile orchestra will render the dance
music. as well as being feature on
the amusement programme.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Thomas HeaIy's Golden GIades.

Sensational. novel and generally
pleasing Is the new entertainment
staged by William Sharp at Thomas
Healy's Golden Glades. Broadway and
Sixty-sixth street, for a summers run.
Blossom Festival" the new dinner
and after theatre revue, Is the most
pretentious production yet made by
Mr.. Healy. ION the Ice" the skating
section of the revue, offers a host OF
skating stars never before assembled
under one roof. Elsie and Paulsen.
IN the Apache dance on skates. fur
nish fifteen minutes OF sensational and
thrilling work around the Ice rink.
Cathleen Pope. the Misses Judels and
Peterson, the skating octette. and Da-
Wis and Georges all contribute toward
making the only Ice skating show In
New York the most novel type OF en-
tertainment presented in a dining and
dancing place. The musical comedy
section is replete with melodious and
tuneful hits, which are accredited to
Rubey Cowan.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Gus Shut Completes Fifth Year at
Reisenweber's,

An anniversary was quietly recog-
nized at Reisenweber's this week and
would have been celebrated except for
the modesty OF Gus Shut. who then
completed his NTH year with the es-
Enlistment as manager. 1t is quite a
stunt to take care Of Re!senweber's in
this capacity. for It Is now one Of the
largest eating and amusement places
in this great city. occupying five lux
uItously fitted up buildings. This res
taurant was the first to introduce the
cabaret in dining places and under
Mr.. Shut three different attractions
are scheduled there: the main dining
room. where the cabaret known as the
revue occurs twice nightly; the Sophie
Tucker room, where this popular
singer and her flve kings Of syncopa-
ton drive home the biggest song hits
with signal success, and the Paradise
room. which is one Of the smart ball
rooms OF this city. Joe Smallwood
under Mr.. Shut has been the mana
ger OF the Paradise room sicne 1t was
opened. John Steinberg has similar
duties in the Sophie Tucker room. Ed
Panzer officiates In the main dining
room and Tom wsN,h in the grill and
cafeteria.
In addition to these regular activi-
ties Reisenweber's maintains specia
banquet halls and a beefsteak grin
, VIII oh are available for parties in any
number from 10 10 500 persons. II
conducts also the Hotel Shelburne
open all the year. at Brighton Beach
New York. with an elaborate revue
dancing and special shore dinners
This resort Is in reality a replica Of
the Columbus Circle establishment. but
we are happy to say for his sake thai
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

larger than at any time in the history
of the hotel. Walter Guzzardi. the
restaurateur. has arranged a special
after the theatre musical and dance
programme and an attractive menu
which has excited much comment.
Another feature IN the life Of the
Majestic this week was the recital
given In the concert room by Miss
Lola Jenkins, a young society girl OF
Asheville. N. c.. who has a marvellous
soprano voice.
Work Is progressing on the Males
tic roof for the opening. which will
take place as soon as the weather Pc. :
mits.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
Fountain Inn.

II the crowd Of dining and dancing
motorists who gathered at Fountain
Inn .on the Merrick road. LynbroolI,
L. L., last Thursday evening to
help the management celebrate their
third anniversary is a criterion by
which to Judge the popularity OF this
roadhouse. then the congenial Henri.
manager. made no mistake when he
suggested to Messrs. Thiessen & Hem
ningsen, the proprietors. that they In
crease the seating capacity of the inn
for the balance Of the season.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

The Hotel Majestic has been the
centre of artistic New York the past
week and hundreds came to view the
exhibition OF pain tngs under the d.
rection Of DR.. Fred Hovey Allen in the
ballroom. Among the distinguished
artists who were represented were
Carleton. c. Chapman. Colin Campbell
Cooper, c. Curran, Gilbert Gaul AL
bert Pike Lucas, Glenn @. Newell. Ed.
ward II. Potthast and William ]
Whittemore.
The dance crowds at the Majestic
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

white organdy. There is rolling
collar OF colored handkerchief linen,
that continues down each side OF tho
front in a turnback rever. that goes
over the side of the front bodice. The
waistcoat part, OF organdy, is laid In
very fine tucks.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

able set, with large patronage OF the
Rialto's personalities.
With the most expansive dancing
floor OF any restaurant. this popular
place Is crowded from the shopping
and matinee luncheon hour. through
the afternoon tea, theatre dinner hour
and after the play. with devotees OF
the dance. The annoying noise OF
loud. blatant music Is eliminated. and
the dancers find the perfect floor and
'1mphonic accompaniment most en-
iovable. The dancing cabaret Ia also
designed for the mental happiness OF
the diners and. with sthe amusement
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

For very warm weather wear IL.
thinnest sorts OF waistcoats are 80.
Some OF them are made OF fine vo!,'
patterned in small squares. Tho vol.
Is in tan or gray or some color
Others are made OF organdy, in To-"
pink. deep rose. lavender, gray, Tais,
and strawberry.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

Embroidered silk Jersey waistcoats
are sold for So or $40 each that are O.
good quality and style. The en-
broidery is sometimes in CONTRASTING
color. sometimes in a darker shade ot
the same color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
NEW WAISTCOATS.

1t Is possible to buy the most at
tractive waistcoats. really at almost
any price one wishes to pay, and the
clever woman can achieve good re-
suits with these waistcoats. Some Of
them are of peplum length. to be worn
with suit coats. and others do not
reach to the waist line. but are made
to be worn with frocks that require a
little set-in waistcoat
Ona Of the short kind IA Ynade nj
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

Some Of the waistcoats have fri'ls
around the neck that are really as AL
covering as charity. as they make the
waistcoat seem a real part OF the
frock with which 1t Is worn. With
this type OF waistcoat frillcd cuffs ar
also sometimes sold.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11
News of Hotels and Restaurants
Churchill's.

Mr.. Shuts territory does not exten
so far.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-05-11

features arranged for the pleasure Of
the eyes, Is most enjoyable, and en-
courages a hearty appreciation of good
food, good cookery and good service.