The sun., 1919-05-18
u T may be that the public is not
as much concerned over the APP

TT may be that the public Is not
as much concerned over the APP
= pcarance or disappearance Of
sport clothes as those who study, make
and sell women's apparel. A year ago
tho news came from Paris that the
most distinguished makers Of sport
clothes had stopped the machinery for
this type of work.
There is fatuous belief in America
that this segment of the Anglo-Saxon
race created the type Of informal cos
mer, but much Of the winter for the
last fifteen years, The truth is that
France launched the idea and created
the clothes. The women of France are
not athletic. There is a certain smart
set that calls itself English. and there
fore goes in for tennis, riding and golf; ;
but the great bulk OF French women
know nothing of these sports and
would not care to indulge in them.
No wonder 1t strikes the average
American woman as strange that in
such a country should be DEVELOPED
the germ of an epidemic in sport
clothes a germ that no one could
think would lodge in the French brain.
But one must remember that the
French brain is peculiarly canny, very
shrewd and full of vision. In the world
OF dress this brain has the power to
create something out Of air. and by the
very prestige OF the power behind it
this thing becomes a worldwide
fashion
The canny part OF the French brain
was working for the exclusive French
set which, several years ago, delighted
TO call itself English.
This is an old trick among the ex-
elusive in Paris. During the French
Revolution and during the Napoleonic
period everything in fashion, man
ners, customs and habits that could be
borrowed from the neighbor across
the Channel was Incorporated into
smart Parisienne life. France has
gone through conclusive periods of
being English" 1t is too early to
see whether or not the mass of the
British army living within her doors
for four years will make her more
English"
But this is for the future. The fact
ia that when the exclusive set began
to initiate their British neighbors in
taking up the appearance. II not the
actually. OF sport, Chanel, one of
the leading French designers, saw her
opportunity to create new form OF
apparel.
II brought her millions. It permit
ted her to play In whatever realms OF
sartorial fancy she chose. Now she
declares that she has stopped the ma
chinery for this kind of work.
The British women, more than any
others, wore these clothes for actual
sport activities. 1t was no pose with
them. as it was in France and in
America Tho sport" clothes we
wore were n mockery Of the real
thing, and they were worn to teas, to
afternoon weddings, and to all those
gay occasions that call for a better
form OF dress.
In this country we abused sport
clothes. They were clever in the be-
ginning. They we're like the tailored
suit-comfortable. smart looking and
serviceable; and like the tailored suit
they were overdone.
1t will be difficult to wean a million
or more young women-and, unfor-
tunately. their older companions
away from the plaid skirt, the bright
sweater and the untrimmed hat as O
constant choice OF apparel between
April and October.
Such clothes are worn by women
who do not know a golf ball from a
highball, do not own an automobile
would not 60 to q picnic. and think q