The sun., 1919-06-01

make Il as elaborate as possible.
Coarse white net Is used for the tight
slip underneath over which is hung the
first layer of the outside material.
| One elaborate gown shows a very
. skinny under skirt with three small
| ruffies Of the net placed one above the
other upside down along the bottom
The embroldered net Is used in an
apron drapery for the front of the
| skirt and has a very wide sash OF ciel
blue satin ribbon running under the
| edge of this apron and draping over
| the hips to be tied In a very wide bow
at the waist line in the back. This
sash is so wide indeed that II appears
almost like hustle Of the satin placed
at the back. The. bodice II put to-
Gether with wide filet lace and 10 quite
as elaborate as the skirt. repeating
an embroidered panel In u vestee ef-
feet. The sleeves are longer than the
French models but do not come quite
TO the elbow.
An Effective Combination.
One OF the effective combinations m
the elaborate type Of dress Is displayed
in gown OF white organdie and white
net combined. Tho net. embroidered
in very handsome design, forms the
upper part OF the gown. while the or
candle, tucked from waist to hem, is
placed In side panels. The finest of
Irish crochet lace Is used as q trim
ming on this frock. edging the collar,
which Is cut In deep points In the
front away from the throat. and edg-
ing the two pockets placed on the front
net panel in the skirt. The short
sleeves are also edged with the lace.
No sash is used on this Dress and
because Of the beauty OF the design
and the material none indeed is
needed. One sees any number Of
dresses with the finely tucked side
panels in all sorts OF fine cotton ma
terials. As the tucks are as a rule not
more than half an inch wide and are
placed so closely together as almost to
overlap they do not thicken the figure
| In spite OF the fact that they run round
instead OF up and down.
While the white dress is the pre-
ferred now and again one finds color
combination worthy Of note, as. for
instance. in a soft little one piece
thing which has the upper part en-
tirely OF finest pleated chiffon pale
pink in color. The lower part of the
| skirt is made OF an embroidered panel
OF net appliqued onto the chiffon and
| finished Off at the sides and back with
| enough Of the plain net to give the
needed width. and let us note, in pass
| ing. that skirts are somewhat wider
| than the spring first showing pre-
dicted. 1t Is well known that thin
| fabrics are not graceful when skimped
and the tight straight effects mist DO
studiously avoided for really good and
graceful results.
The use OF nne net with other
materials this summer solves a prob
lem of what to do with the embroid-
cred panels which come from the
| Philippines, Switzerland or France
and which so often are too much for
! q shirt waist and yet not enough for
the dress. Some of the most pleas
ing results obtained are shown by
cleverely putting these panels to-
gether with handsome lace, filet or
Irish crochet, and filling out all the
required spaces with the fine net
In speaking OF this sort OF gown
one must not forget that the sash il
often its most important part. for. as I
said above, one is just as apt to find 1t
forming almost the entire back as not,
the narrow inch wide string belts be-
ing left for other dresses. II, how
ever, one prefers the narrower type
inch wide MORE ribbon with picot
edges Is used In two stripes.
Contrasting with the deliberately
draped and befrilled frock find the
straight one piece frock. almost per-
fectly straight from neck to hem,
much in favor. The chemise frock It
IL called and is made Of embroidered
panels Of net and lace or embroidered
bstiste combined with the net On
this type OF dress the sash Ia very
wide and tied its full width about the
waist as straight and unrelieved by
} folds or drawing In as n ohlld's. OF
course the dress itself buttons down
} the back end the long lines thus re-
main unbroken.
A Fashion for Braidins.
or late / have observed a fashion
J for braiding every sort OF material
the fine cotton or silk braids being
stitched in close sprawling effec,
. all over the frock, leaving no I'M
|, covered spaces. Finding this braidine
at every turn am not the leas,
astonished to discover fine organdis
treated in the same way and the thir
surface overlaid in ornate lines curl.
ing and interlocking and sprawlinI
, entirely over the dress
Only wee ruffies OF plain organdy
and very narrow edges OF Valenciennes
lace are used as trimming. In the
place OF the braiding the organdy Ia
/ now and then covered with machine
stitching which has tho same effect
| always done in white, "a for som,
reason this is to be a white summer
at least as far as our finest frock,
go. This stitching was used n grea'
| deal during the winter on hats anC
turbans and on silk dresses, but a
, yet this Is the first season II has ap
, peared in the thinner fabrics, there
. fore its presence tells OF its being tn,
/. newest thing.
One of the most delightful fabrics
} for the less elaborate dress thar
, those We have been describing is til,
crossbarred organdy so sheer and nm,
that 1t is a delight TO wearer and be
I holder endlessly. I ind It made III
into n rather dressy morning frocl
, OF almost shirtwaist simplicity
Z though the addition OF tiny ruffies O
, footing along the wide low collar
along the sleeves and on the tops o