davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Calls Big Advances in
Cloth Prices Alarming
Rising Cost of Materials Gut
ting Into Profits, Moses
sOhn Saws

Profits Of women's dress manufact-
urers have reached lower cbb than
ever before, according toy David n.
Mosessohn, executive director of the
Associated Dress Industries of Amer
lea.
Yesterday he characterized the ad-
vances in prices of the cloth and other
materials used in the industry as
most alarming" Despite the neces-
sarily increased prices of the finished
product, he asserted, the manufact
urers are booking a phenomenal bust
ness in fall merchandise.
reports which have reached this
Office" he said, "show that number
of manufacturers of high grade gar
ments have been compelled to close
their showroom doors, generally speak
more orders for the time being. They
have enough work on hand to keep
them busy for three months to come
without booking an order for q single
dress, and the situation existing in
the industry as n whole from q bust
ness standpoint is without precedent.
There are any number OF manufact-
urers who are compelled to refuse eX
port trade because of the fact that
their domestic business is more than
sufficient to keep their plants operating
full force"
"There are few people who actually
appreciate the difficult problems that
are confronting the manufacturers Of
dresses to-day. Putting the labor stu
alton to one side, the difficult expert
cnces in securing a sufficient quantity
of raw materials are unbelievable, ana
in any number of cases manufacturers
are paid premiums to get the merchan-
disc in order to fill the orders booked
by the retail trade. Some idea Of the
advances in prices recorded in the silk
market can be CLEANED from the fact
that one large house which specialized
in satin fabric at S2.25 yard is now
quoting Sd for the same merchandise
and cannot make deliveries at this new
and nigh figure for some time to come.
"For me to say that the situation i,
serious is to put it mildly, and it is
any mans guess as to when normal con-
ditions are likely to be restored. For
every man who contends that prices
will drop within the next six months
there is another man who is firm in
his belief that the next six months
will see prices even higher than what
they are to-day. The matter is being
discussed pro and con by all factors in
the women's garment industry and the
Associated Dresses Industries Of Amer
lea is keeping it's ears close to the
ground and conducting a quiet investi-
cation into the conditions with a view
CT learning nil the facts in connection
/ with the situation"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20

report, "as have makeshifts built
around them to meet new contingent
cles. The result is patchwork. Obvi-
ously this has prevented the best use
being made of the natural advantages
of the port.
"Within' few months the commits
sion expects to have the complete
picture and analysis Of existing con-
ditions. 1t can then concentrate on
what has in fact already begun, the
development Of the final plan, and a
year from now the final report should
be completed"
Four Major Inquiries Made
Four major Investigations - into
railroads, steamships, Tightening and
truckage-were conducted by the com
mission and, in addition, there were
twenty-three minor or incidental in
vestigations. The work was organized
under an experienced railroad man.
Among the facts about New York as
port the commission calls attention
to the following:
"New York is by far the greatest
centre on the Atlantic seaboard The
port has the finest harbor on thu
coast, with 780 miles of waterfront.
Approximately half the foreign COM
merce of the United States passes
through the port of New York. A
determined campaign is being made to
divert traffic from New York mainly
on the grounds of congestion and high
terminal costs in New York"
Problem Is Serious
In concluding the report the COM
mission states that the problems of the
port of New York are more serious
than is generally realized. This is not
only true with respect to the popua-
ton surrounding the port, but the
whole country finds the problems
weighty
The commission, bearing all of the
foregoing in mind" the report con-
cludes, "believes that the greatest
benefit to the communities of the port
of New York to the states of New
York and New Jersey at large and to
the entire country will come from a
scientific development of the whole
port and it is earnestly seeking to
evolve plan for such a development !"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Business Light in
Dress Silk Trade

Comparatively few transactions were
put through yesterday in the dress silk
trade. Just now the chief aim of tho
mill owners is to increase production
rather than to seek additional orders
II is estimated that only rs per cent
of the industry's full capacity is in
operation.
The prospects are that the mills I'd
jacent to New York will be forced TO
grant the demands of their operatives
for a fortyfour hour working week.
This reduction in the operating sched-
ule, if it becomes effective. will mean
loss of II per cent in output. But
the labor leaders assert that the short
err hours will result in increased eff
cheney on the part OF the operatives.
The mill interests counter with the
statement that their employees are not
inclined to overexert themselves, AMI
although the employers are hoping fsr
the best, they are not ready to concede
that decreased hours will prove a euro
for the present Indifferent attitude OF
their help.
According to the mill owners. II IS
difficult to find a sufficient number of
hands to operate the looms, and 1t also
we'll nigh impossible TO keep the work
ing forces intact owing to the corpeti-
tive bidding among the different plants
for help.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Higher Prices for
Heavy Chemicals
sulphaie Of Copper, Caustic
Soda and BicIaron,ate of
Soda Bearer

Prices for sulphate of copper and it's
carbonate sharply advanced yesterday
because of the upward tendency in
the price of the basic metal. Sales of
copper carbonate were made at 26
cents pound in barrels, against
former prices Of "a and % ce1ts.
Solid caustic soda continued it's
steady price advance, sales at SO 25 and
$3.50 being made by second hands at
100 pounds, 1. a. S. 1t is reported that
several large producers are sold ahead
until September. During the last few
weeks several thousand tons have been
shipped to Japan and South America.
Caustic soda is used for making lye
and soap, in mercerizing cotton goods
end in making picric acid, which en-
tiers into the manufacture Of benzol.
An advance was registered in the
Price Of bichromate of soda. Until re-
Gently the market has been very weak
with sales at 7h cents a pound a price
said to be below the actual cost OF
production. Now that prices for b.
chromate Of soda tend upward it is
anticipated that renewed activity ir
bichromatc of potash will follow.
According to late reports the gov
eminent has not as yet released its
supply Of phenol. Limited quantitic:
Of this chemical were being offered a.
i'm to 13 cents pound Most of the
business transacted was in small lots
apparently representing consumer rs
needs
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Why Go Abroad for Millinery

Trips to Europe by millinery buyers
are deplorod in an editorial in the July
issue of "The American Milliner."
Tho American millinery market"
says the editorial, "has assumed an
extraordinary leadership in the millin-
cry affairs Of the world.
The styles originated and produced
by our own clever and capable design
ers are exactly suited to the needs of
inc smart dressers of this country.
The 1919 fall models are rich with
beauty and charm, classic conceptions
on shapes, materials, colors, trim
mings
And we have only just begun to
produce. Our designers are only lust
now breaking the shackles and strikinr
out IN the realms of originality, unrc-
stricted and unafraid.
The future Of American millinery Is
golden with anticipation and promise
,Why go to Europe?
reports from the other side are not
encouraging. Letters, cables, return
ing tourists tell of chaotic conditions
of strikes, scarcity OF materials. in.
creased costs and absolute lack Of now
things. A nation burdened with war
problems Is evidently in no mood ct
present to create inspired styles. Our
most kindly and sympathetic feeliars
cannot overlook this fact. And vet. ali
the difficulties Of restricted production.
high costs. delayed shipments would
count for naught, but--wc must have
new ideas.
thoroughly able this season I'd sunnlv
fully and completely oil tho demands
Tor nigh class, smart, original millin-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20

Epstein basement general merchandise:
'2 Mr RMTpf11nwny elexsnth floor son. r
Broadway, eighth floor
MPIIIs-Oppcnheim & Bejack; S.
Hcyman. shoes: Imperial
MILES CITY. Mon.-The Shore New
com Co.: Leo De Roster. ready to wear;
Gr re- No N9rthern ,;u, ,r =,
M. and Mrs. NJ. Cohen. ready to wear:
MUNc1E, 1nd--nohrs & Bath; Fl. II.
Bath, dryEoods. millinery. carpets, ready
NAsHvlLLE-M Greenspan; wholesaler.
Jewc!ry' watches, novelties. leather goods,
Opt goods; Flanders.
NEW ORLEANS-C. A. Kaufman Com
pany, Ltd; NJ. Marks muslin underwear.
petticoats; ZIG West Thirty second Street.
NEW ORLEANs-Miss Magreeve; wom-
ems hosiery, knit underwear. gloves and
umbrG!las. 10 East Twenty sixth Street.
NEW ORLEANS-Marks Ribbons Com
pany; J. Marks. ribbons, vclvets. silks.
white goods. dress goods; is East twenty
sixth street. room 1913.
Company; w. e. jackson. stoves, crockery.
sily y,T1I e =, P[e,n,nsylvania.
Wise; manuiacturers pants; St. Andrew
PHlLADELPHIA-J. Wanamaker: w.
o. McCabe. upholstery goods--basemen
PlI lLADELPHIA--J. Wanamaker: G..
w, w. S,ri sporting goods; broadway and
Icntn street.
observation-disclosures j., clothing
iuTnisnlng goods and millinery; Alcazar.
PoRTLAND. Orc-S1eicr e. Frank Co.
A. Meier. representing; 2l2 Eth Avenue
KIcHMoND, .vn.-Etchison Hat Com
pany; j. E Etchison, hats and caps: Her
SAN ANTONIO. rcx.-A. Alderman 6
Son; Henry. Alderman. mems habsrlash-
cry: IIcnnsyISsania;
-. ul ia
SKI TS.Scisco@A: s hG"1eA s'v sons
1915 hast Twelfth Street '0| s'''N'
N,tNNAH-Levy. b. II. Bro. & Co.
a. a. b.. Levy, w1mens and chldren's ready
SHERIDAN. Wyo.--J. p. Croft & Co.
J. p. Croft. ready to wear. drygoods: care
j. sioux e XtA G1Sv l21 70 BprosaTay, ~
70 Gsi9singer. drapcries; 1861 Broadway
ST ST. cATHnR1NDs ont.-1nkstater
J. Inkstnter. merchandise manager
sr. LouIs-carleton D. 9. Co.; @. W.
sroudHToN. Mas.-L F. Marron
Troy. y. Y,-~silver O. Levy, c. Levy
dar r.s1, not!ons hosiery. Nnoleums
Ar wxSo:y TTs s.tms.no,r nro.. >, ~
10 Mast Twenty-fourth btroot; I.onxaora
:. WATnRTOWN, 8. D.---Paulis D. q. Co.
r.: ~, Pnulis. ready to wear: caro- Fred
w. Mahlsr, 1910 Broadway.
WNATHERToRD. Tex.--.Isaker-poston q
Co.. dry goods: J. c. jenkins. representing
WILMINGTON. Ddi. ~ snnard Co..
Charles Lambson. ready to wear; ait Firth
Avenuo.
WOncmhTnR, Mass.,yAspsr bros; H.
Jasper. weoisnsi broadway Central.
YOnK, Penn.--stA!r, J. W., drygoods no
Honsa nsnA TRst> 5sodA hosiery undsr-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Shortage of Yarns
And Labor Hampers
Trade i'm Sweaters
Mill Man Says Public Can
not Expect Lower Prices
Until Europe Begins to
Produce Large Surplus

Low production resulting from the
shortened working week and the de-
creased labor supply, together with in
creased difficulty of getting sufficient
yarns are the only untoward incidents
in the lives of manufacturers of wool
len sweaters. Retailers are sending
in orders rapidly and do not complain
of the high prices.
GIVE us more yarn and more labor"
said H. Boepple, of the United Knit
wear Mills, yesterday, "and we will do
the greatest business in the history of
the industry. Sweater manufacturers
actually have more business than they
can handle at present. The slowed
down production in the industry and
the shortage of yarns will continue for
some time to come, think, and buyers
cannot look for any drop in the price
Of merchandise until these conditions
are allcviated
Three of. our mills in Brooklyn are
running night and day and yet we are
not able to keep pace with the orders
we receive. We need more workers and
obtain in the industry than ever be-
fore. Good knitters demand and get
500 week and more and factory girls
who formerly were satisfied with S12
a week now get s22 or $24 and fire.
quently leave us for positions paying
them more money. AS wages advance,
the cost of merchandise advances and
then the workers demand higher wages
to keep pace with the cost of living.
This process will go en-, | think, until
Europe gets to the point where she
can produce q surplus supply of goods.
Then prices and wages both will fall. f"
it is almost impossible for the
sweater manufacturer to get the yarn
spinning mills to accept orders for
yarns now, according to Mr.. Bocpple.
He showed letters from twenty spin
ners received in the last two days say
ing they would be unable to accept
large orders for yarn hich he had en- :
deavored to place with them. "The
splnners are up against the shortened
production just as we are" he said.
AT the present rate fine zephyr wool
yarns in colors, now selling around
S3.45 pound, will be 81 a pound be-
fore very long"
Retailers are not purchasing their
supplies for long periods ahead said
Mr.. Boepplc. because of the frequent
changes in style. Novelty sweaters
lead all others in sales now, and the
consuming public seems to demand
something new frequently. Most of the
orders placed now. he said, are for de-
livery not later than a month hence
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
High Speed Trades
Cause Disputes in
Garment Industry
Arbiters Sitting Constantly
to Straighten Alterations
Between Manufacturers
and the Fabric Producers

High tension and the speed at which
business Is now transacted in tho an
parel industries are responsible for
many disputes between garment MANI
facturers and producers of fabrics. A.
cording to NJ. Mosessohn, executives di-
rector Of the United Waist League a,
America. Tho manufacturers Of an
parei, he said, are in desperate need Of
materials and place orders hurriedlv.
In addition, the prices Of all fabric.
are rising almost daily. Many Of the
disputes hinge on the fact that thu
materials have advanced in price sincs
the orders were first placed. Were il
not for the arbitration board of tht
league, to which the waist manufact.
urers and fabric producers refer their
disputes, the courts would be Uttered
with cases involving hundreds of thou
sands Of dollars, he said.
Our. arbitration board" he asserted
yesterday, "ls in session almost eyerv
day and is acting on a large numher
of serious disputes, which have coma
about as the result of price advances
in materials and the failure of some
manufacturers of fabrics to execute or.
ders placed with them when prices vera
not as high as they are to-day,
1T seems to me that 80 per cent 81
the disputes which have come before
our arbitration board in the last two
weeks, and which are now pendinc
have arisen because Of the negligence
on the part of the manufacturers NJ
waists as well as manufacturers ~
raw materials, which has been dis
played in the failure to give more At.
tention to the details of an order be-
cause Of the haste and anxiety on ths
part of either one of the interests TO
have the order on record
There never was time in the wais.
manufacturing industry when orders
involving SO many thousands of dol
lars were placed on such short notice.
And, furthermore, the attitude as
sumcd by some manufacturers of rev
materials in the seeking of business i,
without precedent. The indications ara
that the arbitration board will have
this important work to perform for
some time to come, and l doubt very
much indeed If there will be O manu-
featuring concern in the country that
will not have just cause for action OF
one kind or another against concerns
they do business with, due to the alb
normal prevailing conditions. We ara
confident, however, that our arbitra-
ton board will be the means of ad-
justing these disputes and establish
ing q continuation of friendly feelings
on the part of buyer and seller.
"ln this connection the standard
form of confirmation of order. Just
adopted by US, will be the means ,f
obviating many misunderstan dings.as
everything is made clear by tha rules
adopted and by having conditions
clearly understood"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Loop Tunnels Idle
Until $8,000,000 Is
Found for Changes
Bores That Cost 100000
to City Still Are Trackless;
Is. r. L. Insists ON Right to
Use Present Rolling Stock

Despite the fact that slightly more
than 100000 was paid by The city for
two concrete tunnels leading from the
Brooklyn Bridge to the Centre Street
loop, and that these tunnels were COM
pleted more than year ago and were
to be a portion of the dual subway
system, no rails have been laid, and
the B. R. T. trains still shunt hack
and forth from the switchback which
extends into City Hall Park.
The original plans were that the B.
r. 7. WAS to use the terminal under
meath the Municipal Building for all
trains crossing the williamsburg, Man
haitian and Brooklyn bridges. The sys-
TENS over the Williamsburg and Man.
haitian bridges have been completed
and have long been in operation. The
reasons why the Brooklyn Bridge ter
minal has never been completed are
many.
Il. r. T. Wants Guarantees
The B. R. 7. refuses to make any.
additional expenditure such as the lay
ing of tracks or employing additional
personnel for the tunnels until they re-
ceivc the assurance from the Public
Service Commission that they viii be
allowed to operate their present roll
ing stock over it, The tunnels were
built by the Bridge Comm ission for the
city, and the B. r. T. states that they
should bear the remainder of the ex-
pense Furthermore under the pres
cnt ruling of the Commissioner of
Bridges, John S. Delaney, no wooden
cars will be allowed in the Centre
Street loop.
The Brooklyn Rapid Transit Com
pany is willing to run steel cars, de-
spite the difficulty they will encounter
IN passing through tunnels which were
built for the same model as those en-
ployed by the marlborough. The steel
cars Of the B. r. T. are ten inches
wider, which will barely allow clear
ancc space.
A short time ago commission of
city engineers examined the brooklyn
Bridge suspension cables and reported
that in order to run steel trains over
it an expenditure of eight to nine
millions of dollars would be necessary
in improvements.
More Funds Are Needed
The question resolves itself into an
other tangie between the Public Ser
vice Commission and tho city, whose
taxpayers paid two millions Of dollars
for two tunnels which cannot be used
until an additional eight or nine mil
lions is expended to strengthen
Brooklyn Bridge.
Commissioner Delaney, who was for
mcrly Commi ssioner of Plant and
STRUCTURES, and who supervised the
building of the tunnels, said yesterday
that no appropriation had been as yet
asked from the city for the strength
enlng Of the bridge, as the policy of
the present administration was one of
rctrenchment and not of expenditure
The B. r. T., on the other hand does
not issue transfers from the lines ter
mlnating at the Municipal Building tc
similar lines crossing the Brooklyn
bridge, and the traveller to lines not
served by those crossing the Manhat-
tan or williamsburg bridge must
walk up three flights of stairs and
pay an additional nickel.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Dye Trade Slack
sattle Prospect of Big Orders
Until Fall

The domestic dye industry is ap-
parently going through the customary
seasonal slackness, with slight posi-
blllty of heavy buying until the latter
part of August or the first part of
September. The export demand from
Japan, China and India for bright,
cheap colors continues strong. Ex-
porters report heavy sales of malachitc
green, which is used in the manufac1-
ure of paper, and of fuchsine, Congo
req and Bismarck brown, used in the
orient for the coloring Of fancy straws
and cheap cotton goods.
Inquiries for direct black were Of
no nature. 1t was reported that
plentiful. The price Of direct black had
been abnormally high of late One
dealer said that in 1913 he could buy
al that he desired at 10 cents a pound.
The. latest quotation that had been
made to him was 81 a pound. At
these figures, he said, it was impossible
to 90 business in mixtures without
raising prices.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-07-20
Vice Consul Hadley Tells
How America Can Help
Weary People, Regardless
of Recognition Question
First to Fight the Germans
Plattsburg Man Recounts
Sacrifices by 1000, 900
Before Reds Cot Control

"There are three things America can
do right now to help the war-weary,
discouraged, bewildered Russian peo-
ple," said Howard D. Hadley, Of Platts-
burg, N. Y. American Vice Consul in
Russia, who has just reached New York
after stay of nearly two years in the
Slav empire. eve could increase the
help we have already given them in
yehabilitating the Transsiberian Rail
way system; we could increase the
help we have been extending to them
through the American Red Cross, and
we could enable the peasants Of Siberia
to procure quantities Of agricultural
machinery and implements and other
wealth producing things. There are
plenty of other ways in which we could
and should help these friendly Russian
people, but these are the three most
pressing needs.
"Ihese things we could do without
whether Kolchak should or should not
be recognized. We should do these
things, think, because long before the
United States entered the fighting
these same Russian people had sent
more than 100000 of their finest
young men to death in unmarked
graves in the Mazurian swamps and the
Carpathian Mountains and elsewhere,
in gallant struggle to do their part
to win the world war and down Prus-
sian imperialism.
Russia First to Fight
RUSSIA, fortunately for us, was
ready to fight and did fight while
France was epared-long before
England could get ready and years be-
fore America began to get into the
game.
Russia made greater sacrifices than
any other nation involved in the war;
and yet, although exhausted by these
sacrifices, bewildered by the chaotic
conditions following the overturn of
the Car and betrayed by enemies at
home and in Germany, the Russians
struggled bravely along for six or eight
months more under Kercnsky in a
gallant effort to keep their flag waving
until the end of the war.
Just at the psychological moment
the Prussian military leaders slipped
Leninc and Trotzky from Switzerland
through Germany into Russia and
aided them in every way. The Germans
hOped Lcnlne ana Irotzky would COM
plete the decentralization of the Russian
army, as we'll as the industrial and
commercial life Of Russia, in order that
Russia should be helplessly at the
mercy of Germany both during and
after the war.
"Lenne and Trotzky succeeded in
turning confusion into chaos and,
aided by Germany, seized the power as
it fell from Kerensky's hands.
Should Help Lift Yoke
81 maintain that, as Bolshevism was
foisted upon Russia by Germany as
9 part of the great game of war, we
Russia's allies, who received such i'm.
portant assistance from Russia carly
n the war, are in duty bound to help
the Russian people throw off this Ger
man Imposed yoke and stand by them
until they have fair chance to fig
ure out what kind Of government they
desire to live under.
"Germany mannuvred the game by
which Lenine and Trotzky we're able
to seize and retain power In Russia
Germany hopes with great confidence
that her intrigue there, which failed