davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
The new YEAR
by Robert Fowler

Ring out the old; ring IN the new
The chimes OF gold. with spirit true
The chimes Will ring at midnight sharp
With treasured beat, like sound OF harp.
AS chimes Will ring IN overy State,
The message then Will Indicate.
The New Year has arrived, quite true.
Let's stay awake and greet the Now.
Let's start the year in doing right
And ring the chimes at twelve that
night.
Ring out the old; ring in the new.
0f all the things we plan 10 do
For then at last the old year fades.
And In rs place the new pervades.
SO pledge allegiance loyal and true.
Let's stay awake and greet the new.
Perhaps TO us in such event,
To stay awake is discomfort.
II Is a fact. with reason, too.
hing out the old, ring In the new.
OF all the things that may comprise,
For masqueraders will disguise.
So ring the chimes with message clear.
And celebrate the glad New Year.
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
MUST NOT WEAR
THE ARMY UNIFORM

Tho military authorities at Washing
son have sent TO the police OF this city
A warning against men not in the Army
DIT National Guard wearing the uniform
u soldiers. Accompanying the warning
S a COPY OF section 1875, Act OF Congress-
approved June g. 1916, which provides
hat violators shall be fined not more
han $500, or Imprisonment not exceed
ng six months, or both penalties may be
Inflicted. This law does not affect mem
)ers Of the National Guard, cadets or
ictors II Is provid d that no stage ar
list shall wear the uniform in any act
IT play which would discredit the
army, Navy or Marine Corps. The Boy
Scouts OF America and the Naval Militia
ire also exempt from the order.
A member OF the Army may wear his
Evening journal., 1919-12-30

ing Committee, at the Public Building
last night.
The eoWmittee members who assem-
bled In Council Chamber, ready 20 pro-
eeed when the Salvation Army band,
from Philadelphia, began playing in
the corridor below. Meanwhile word
Of Prices escape had been received and
provided topic for brisk conversation.
BY common consent the committee ad-
10urned until next Monday night
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
Largest Paid Circulation

Rudolph Of Washington, d. c., is visit
ing her sister Mrs. Charlas duPons
RidgleyI A. B. Carter and S. w. Miller
have returned from trip TO Chester
Pa; Miss Cora Fitzgerald OF New
York is visiting her mother, Mrs
Eta Fitzgerald; Benjamin r. Conwell
is visiting in PhiAsfd phis; William
Conwen Of Baltimore and Mrs. Ezkie,
Cooper OF Wilmington are the guests
Of Mr.. and Mrs. L. w. Hollis.
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
MENTION FIVE FOR
CITY JUDGESHIP

John r Lynn, former assistant city
solicitor, is favored for the appoint
ment Of Judge Of the Municipal Court.
to succeed Judge Philip Q. Churohman,
in a petition being circulated at the
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
BRASS BAND R0UTS
HOUSE RENT PROBERS

Brass band music and excitement over
the escape OF Lem" Price, the mur-
derer, knocked cut the scheduled meet
Ing of the Mayors Anti-Rent Pronteer-
Evening journal., 1919-12-30

Young Mems Republican Club.
Others mentioned for the appoint
ment, which is made by Governor
Townsend, are Leonard e. Wales,
Deputy Attorney-General Frank L.
Speakman, Edmund S. Hellings. and
Aaren Finger, present deputy judge
Evening journal., 1919-12-30
CAMEN HAPPENINGS.

Special to The Evening Journal.
CAMDEN, Dec. a0-Mrs. Antolnebte NJ.
Evening journal., 1919-12-30

uniform three months after the date OF
discharge, but not after that time, I'M
less such garb is worn at cerem""'1s,
The sun., 1919-01-26
nTNawnFro nFrenFa CnNe Have
WEI Are Wear

the blue. In other words. the tailored
suit offered to us to-day makes us all
dream.
skirts of Moderate Length.
Now, here are the essentials to pro-
duce the dreams: Skirts are moderate
in length and width in the new things
that are exploited. They do not sweep
the ankles: they do not curve In at the
back of the knees; they have little re-
semblance to the lower part of n mer-
maids body; they are straight, their
seams hold them steady; they barely
escape the ankles. and they allow free
dom of movement.
There is no return to a flare at the
hem. Nothing ripples. But if the
skirt is not permitted to curve out,
neither is IT permitted to curve in.
There Is an entire absence of fur on
the suits. This is appropriate for the
season, but 1t is significant OF the
fashions. for many women will buy
suits in January that are intended to
serve them through the cold weather
yet to come. They must be guided in
their choice OF reduced suits to-day by
what will be worn tomorrow.
The best tailor Is content to let a
skirt go free Of ornamentation. Braid
! is overdone, fringe has become COM
monplace and neither will be returned
to the spring fashions, as far as the
| prophets can see.
Angora embroidery vanished with
the war. Bias bands are good. and one
Of the best suits worn by one who
/ L..
three bias folds. doubled and stitched
at the upper edge. These ornament
the hem. Any woman would care TO
know the details OF this suit because Of
its prestige.
| II Is OF rough cheViot IN a mixed,
| golden brown that reminds one OF the
| heather mixtures. only the touch OF
| green is absent. There Is the straight
skirt with its double bias folds at the
| hem and the coat that ripples a bit
| from shoulders to hips. There are bias
| folds tlar.ng away from the surface Of
| the coat az the hem and the wrists.
The sleeves are cut straight neither
yielding TO the inclination TO be Span
| ish. with a bell shaped opening at tho
wrist. nor skin tight. after tho medieval
manner
There Is wide. rolling collar that
| ends at the bust. and the fastening
| consists of four long. wide tabs OF the
cloth. stitched at the edges. pointed at
one end. with a long. stitched button
| hole. These buttonholes go over large
| buttons covered with the material. The
| stitched tabs run we'll across the figure,
| but the fronts OF the coat swing open
just a bit as the wearer moves, to
show a mandarin yellow crepe de chine
| blouse.
| In tailored suits the lining dominates
the coat 1t Is intended to draw more
attention than the outer surface. Its
coloration is vivid and now and then il
The sun., 1919-01-26

vivid colors and it goes exceedingly
we'll on a suit of oxford gray or dull
blue cheviot.
Apart from the tapestry Innings. the
novelty of the hour is the use of cotton
coat interiors. France started this
fashion as measure of economy. but
the price that one pays for a coat that
has this lining does not suggest any
thing but extravaganza. However. ii
is new fashion and it is bound to win
II is one of the few things that have
cropped up out of the war as an actual
surprise. 1t Is difficult to find time
in the history of dress when the COM
monest cottons we're used for the most
expensive jacket materials. Think. for
instance, of Doucet using unbleached
muslin as a lining for a two-hundred-
and fifty-dollar suit! Other designers
use muslin with a Paisley figuration in
dull colors. The printed calico used
for bandannas Is put into short blue
serge Jackets. Turkey red cotton is
The sun., 1919-01-26
MOVIE ACTRESSES AND
THEIR HAIR

Did it ever occur to you that
every movie actress you have seen
has lovely hair, while the most
popular count their curls as their
chief beauty? In fact, many are
leading ladies just because of their
attractive looks. Inquiry among
them discloses the fact that they
bring out all the natural beauty of
their hair by careful shampooing,
not with any soap or makeshift, but
with simple mixture by putting a
teaspoonful of canthrox (Which
they get from the druggist) in a
cup of hot water and applying this
instead of soap. This full cup of
shampoo liquid is enough so it is
easy to apply it to all the hair in
stead of just the top of the head.
After its use, the hair dries rapidly
with uniform color. Dandruff, eX-
cess oil and dirt are dissolved and
entirely disappear. The hair is so
fluffy that it looks much heavier
than 1t is, its luster and softness
are delightfpL--AdA
The sun., 1919-01-26

dress, the dressmaker's task Is not SC
easy as IL used to be, In the old days
when 1t was mainly a matter of what
they were wearing" the dressmaker
had only to convince her patron that
the fashion plates she showed were the
! very latest and then II was a matter
OF choosing between some half dozen
new models.
II one could make an exact imitation
OF the newest sleeve. then the sleeve
| tecoming-well, that was not the fault
of tho dressmaher. 1t was madam's
fault, perhaps. and anyway there was
ample consolation in not looking ones
best IL one only looked in fashion. So
each season the dressmaker had only
to perfect herself in a few tricks. If
| she lived in the small town or suburb
| she made trip to the city each sea-
son and, having seen how the famous
metropolitan dressmakers turned the
new fells and performed the new
| tricks, that was enough.
| But now with women Interested In
clothes in the new way, the matter is
different. One day it may be the
dressmaker's task to make for one
customer a velvet gown suggested by
a portrait OF Van Dyke The dress
maker must catch the inspiration from
the portrait, but bring the gown itself
into line with things as they are. The
result. you know, Is not to be for a
fancy dress party but for something
that will look entirely up to date.
| Then the next customer may have a
piece OF antique Italian velvet-and
her request may DO that this fabric
be converted into an evening gown in
keeping with tho period when It was
made as well as with the present. And
| tho velvet itself must not be cut too
much. 1t must be skilfully. draped and
Of course the dressmaker has no prece-
dent for this.
Then comes a woman who has be-
come convinced that she is OF n Per-
sian type OF beauty and she wants the
dressmaker to produce something UNI
usual from some Persian fabrics she
has bought and so II goes
To be sure the result Is more inter
esting but one must be a historian, q
globe trotter. an artist and q psycholo-
gist. as well as a clever dressmaker
Ito make womea's elSeAss nowadays.
The sun., 1919-01-26
How to Talk About Clothes
II used to be taken for granted

T used to be taken for granted
l that tho woman who talked
clothes was a custard- Drained
creature. 1t was all very well to
spend certain amount of time plan
ming and thinking about clothes, but
we fled from the woman who let the
subject intrude for If she did II meant
usually something very self-centred.
unimaSinative and vapid.
The woman who talked clothes was
always telling you how much she paid
a yard for materials and trimmings
something intensely stupid to all but
the person who pays it. She was
always concerned with what they
were wearing" She read the fashion
books-not for suggestions but for
hard and fast rules. There was
precious little OF romance, nothing Of
history or psychology. and amazingly
little of art or beauty In that sort OF
clothes talk. No wonder We Stunned
the woman addicted to it.
But talking dress nowadays Is a
different thing. or at least II may be.
il is not simply dressmakers' shop talk.
1t takes us far afleld in the realm OF
romance and history, OF art and psy-
chology. And the woman who i'm
AGNES that she can keep up her end
OF the discussion of dress without keep
ing well abreast of the times Is also
painfully mistaken. Intelligent dress
talk Is about as interesting a topic as
one can suggest, and the funny thing
about 1t that sometimes the most in
teresting contributions to this field are
offered by men.
Nowadays, the really cleverly
dressed woman does not content her
self simply with buying the latest
number OF the most up-to-date fashion
magazine or looking over tho latest
French colored sheets on her Dress
makers reception room table. She
makes little excursions to the art mu-
seums, or If she cannot do that she
looks for inspiration in books where
interesting pictures are reproduced.
She finds the plays she sees far more
OF an inspiration than the fashion
plates. To he sure, there are the
women who see no connection between
the dress one sees on the stage and
their own possible wardrobes.
With this new way Of looking az
The sun., 1919-01-26

used for any coat, even If Cubist cf-
feet In coloration is the result.
There are two contending factions n
coats. a group of French and Amer
lean designers are lengthening the cuat
until 1t has the earmarks Of a red.
ingote. 1t reaches to the hem Of tn,
short French skirt. Americans do not
like long coats, and they care for them
less and less as the weather advances
into spring warmth.
To suit this faction there ar thou
sands who are putting out faSCinat-
ing array Of little jackets. Many ripple
from the shoulders, like Capcs; others
are as straight az Cuirass and cut
after the Cromwell and Stuart fashion
to open in front and show frilled and
fanciful blouse; and still others are IN
slim, cuirass fashion taken from the
armor of the seventh century.
There are jackets that make no pre-
tence of fastening because they wish
to give the blouse beneath an oppor-
tunity to display Itself There are
others that are put on over the heal
with merely an oblong slit at the nee,
line, and there are hip length Jackets
that look like child's pinaforc. These
also 20 over the head and ripple from
the shoulders.
Women who wear these do not need
the fashionable advice not to remove
the coat In public. They couldn't do g.
The blouse is obliterated in these
tailored suits, and its substitute is a
loose China silk lining for those who
are slim, and tight, boned one OF
quilted silk for those who have large
curves.
The unheralded advent of leather
coats in the autumn fashions gave the
public a Jolt and n surprise. 1t is
whispered that even the designers
were not quite aware of the strength
that the fashion would assume
Waistcoats of leather. jackets of leather
and fur combined, were taken up by
smart women in war work and re-
manned as a street costume for peace
activities.
The idea brought about a train ot
other ideas. Soft suede and pliabls
leather have been brought out for
spring Jackets. The suede IS dyed in
the spring colors, and one OF new leaf
The sun., 1919-01-26

ion went out Of existence long before
the war dominated the world. 1t has
not been reversed. Women keep on
their jackets until they take off their
skirts. And yet. with this fashion an
accomplished fact. the designers by the
usage Of pictorial Innings are stimulat-
ing women to put their coats over the
backs of chairs whenever possible.
Why pay a large price for n piece Of
satin tapestry II you cannot show it?
The average woman, however, does
not accept these animated designs, al
though she is willing to accept the
verdict Of vivid coloration. She de-
The sun., 1919-01-26
CORSAGE BOUQUETS AGAIN.
NoRsAGE bouquets have become

|ORSAGE bouquets have become
u fashionable again and many OF
the newest evening gowns show
them in interesting co,or and work
manship. But as we use them now
they are not accessories that We can
add to a frock as an after,houGht.
The gown really has Ia he built M
from the bouquet, and more than one
of the most successful evening gowns
this year has been made with a cor
sage bouquet as the nucleus; the rest
VAS only O Development
The sun., 1919-01-26

lights in a geranium lining to a dark
blue coat or mandarin yellow interior
to golden brown jacket. She is tired
Of gray and black and dull striped
materials. and she knows quite well
that the modern coat. which does not
fasten securely in front, II 1t fastens
at all. gives her a chance to display a
splash Of scarlet or a flash of yellow.
Women who do not feel that II is
worth while to have a coat refined are
getting the new, brilliant ribbons en-
plotted by the French designers. These
are used as facing TO the edge OF the
coat, and women run them on by hand
down the front, around the hem and at
the edge OF the sleeves.
The Roman striped ribbon has re-
turned to fashion along with the other
The sun., 1919-01-26

green which goes with a wh.'" ,~..'
de chine skirt is quite allrru- S.-a
a combination is obviously intended
for Southern usage, but the sot'. u.a.h
leather coats with bright Innings a-
intended for the streets oC big ,.r
They carry skirts of cheyio,. s,r-. N'.
heavy silk jersey. The latter is a.I."
considered most desirable g.. H.
dressed women
Among the new ornamoa't'.,H
open work. This frs. appeal n.
one piece froCks and has been lr--..
over to spring suits. Their" ar
shaped openings finished with ..'.
hole stitch down the ci-u- ,t .
caots. and as fnish!n- touch p" ."
sleeves, there are Cretouuo Collars
bound with the material OF a." .n.
and there are loops and COMO .'.
made of soft. silk shoe lreos
The sun., 1919-01-26

ties OF satin remaining in fashion, are
phrases and reflections that fit
through the mind.
The dressmaliers do good propaganda
work at this time. Tho Palm Beach
season is thrown at us like a brilliant
flag against a gray, sleet filled sky.
1t delights our souls. II makes us
think OF palm trees and cocoanut
groves. of red clay roads in Georgia
and Capolins. Of pines that reach iuto
The sun., 1919-01-26

displays the animated designs of
tapestries OF the Middle Ages. Animals
rove over its surface. Human figures
are engaged in human activities.
Hunting scenes, pastoral scenes, gay
little bits OF street life are put on your
coat lining, and il you are clever you
see to 1t that the public is instantly
made aware OF the novelty.
The pity Of It is that one does not
take OF the coat IN ySlhljo That <ssh.
The sun., 1919-01-26

Although in most Of the new frocks
for evening and afternoon wear there
is decided lack of lace or other trim
ming to relieve the severity of the line
at the neck, still it is said that this
spring We will enjoy a revival of
dainty neck laces--neck accessories
frills and jlbots and rufiies. They will
be worn with suits and day frocks,
and will make use OF lavish amount
OF beautiful laces.
The sun., 1919-01-26

At left navy blue cotine trimmed with raspberry
braid Suspenders of the cloth edged with the braid
tached to the skirt and hold front bib The sides
Tapped and left open the bottom permit walking
At right chartreuse colored colarless coat
trimmed with nse embroidery Pleated panels fall
pocket, and there is a pleaed panel in front.
The sun., 1919-01-26

OF French girls who rarely had the
price OF cotton hose before the war.
Exactly at the moment that the
The sun., 1919-01-26

Is anything uglier than the trans
parent peplum blouse worn with a
light camisole or corset ~over? 1t was
bad enough with the old time blouse
that ended at the belt line. but when
the newer type OF blouse is worn thus
there is an ugly discrepancy between
the waist section and the skirt section
OF the blouse.
or course, where the front and back
panel OF the blouse are OF some heavier
The sun., 1919-01-26

Anglo Saxons turned their attention to
sturdy Cashmere stockings and made
wool more fashionable than silk, the
French took up silk stockings. It was
queer reversal of their attitude
toward all the bits OF costumery that
they group under the name of lingerie
They arc making a great to-do over
there about the introduction OF silk
underwear and Jersey silk chemises
and knickerbockers, and one of the
French writer's naively wonders If
America will adopt this style of lin
gerie! We consider that we intro
duced II, and II has been the funda-
mental part OF the wardrobe of the
great mass OF American women and
girls for several years. We have also
worn silk stockings in every class OF
society. from those who work for
wages to those who spend the I'M
earned income. Possibly France is Dor
rowing some of our ideas in clothes
without knowing the source.
Propaganda for Tailored suits.
But all this is far away from tho
semi-annual discussion OF tailored
the fundamental fact that France cuts
the skirts of her street suits nearly to
the knees, while we cut them quite to
the ankles. Twice year tho little
gyraton OF public opinion takes place
around tailored suits. There is a rapid
swirl around new centre, and It
sweeps over two continents
Twice year women regard the
tailored suit as the most important
problem TO be solved. a new one for
autumn and a new one for spring is
the necessity OF the rich and the ex-
travagance of the we'll to do. The
glamour OF one piece frocks, heaped
with fur or covered with smart top
coats, dies out. In autumn and spring
We approach days when wraps are
burdensome and the one piece frock,
unprotected, Is chilly. We need the
American costume that was invented
to serve our necessity.
In January we begin to face the
winter. and yet. with our usual ca
priciousness, we face the fact of choos-
ing a new tailored suit. Even If we
do not buy it, we talk about It. We
like to speculate upon its possibilities
We show exceeding interest in the
new fabrics that are advanced for Il
and the colors that the season will pro-
claim. Shirt waists and various types
Of blouses engage our attention. The
length of coats, the larrowness Of
skirts. the warmth of velours. the
serviceability Of tsffets ths Drobebni-
The sun., 1919-01-26
Hints From Dress Shops

material the effect is satisfactory. But
when georgette or chiffon is used, then
one really needs a dark Camisoe. II
is not always easy to buy these, al
though they are to be had in navy
blue, one or two shades OF brown,
green and the other usual suit shades.
But they are not difficult to make.
Soft satin IS 2 good selection for the
fabric, although crepe de chine is also
good. They can be finished at the top
with machine hemstitchlng, and the
shoulder strap may either be made of
ribbon to match or some OF the fabric
finished with narrow hemstitchlng.
They should be adjusted so that none
OF the lighter lingerie appears above
the dark camisole.
The pleasure of having little novel
ties and accessories from the London
or Paris shops has been denied US for
so long that most of us will count the
JOY of having our friends bring us
gifts from overseas. And the best
thing about II is that these things will
be true novelties. Before the war the
matter Of importing things from Paris
and London was so simple that usually
by the time We got back from our
European trip We found the very
things that We had bought In the
charming shops along the Rue de
Rivoli or the Avenue de l'Opera. PicCa-
dilly or Oxford Circus selling for less
on the homo bargain counter. But
now there has been so little importa-
ton of things OF II frivolous nature.
and there has been so little exchange
of ideas in the making OF these things
that we might be able TO ind real sur
prises and novelties In the shops OF
I.nplOJ1 and Paris
The sun., 1919-01-26

~ NITTED Innings are an interest
n ing Development in some of the
newest wraps. Some OF them
are knitted by hand, and others are
made Of machine-knitted fabrics.
Needless to say, they are in vivid
colora
The narrow skirt pleads for the use
OF the bifurcated under garment.
Hence the present vogue for elaborate
chiffon or georgette boomers made to
wear with dance frocks.
Pajamas OF chiffon and lace, and
other fabrics so dainty and delicate
that they would really be poorly suited
as q substitute for the robe de mutt"
are not infrequently used as a com
bination under garment 10 be worn
with the rather elaborate house gown
that has OF late been adopted as n
substitute for the evening gown when
one dimes or passes the evening at
home.