Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-03-11

cut carefully close to the seams which
Joined them to the main garment. I did
not throw any parts away. but laid
them aside for possible piecing Even
the coat lining, which was mohaIr. T
had planned a use for.
tnen cleaned the suit, shaking out
each piece in tho open air, and then
Washlng II in warm water and strong
suos or pure white soap and n little
ammonia. Then I wrung them out and
hung them over the clothes bars until
they were part dry. ironed them OF
what had been the right side of the ma =
terial, as | planned to make up the
Skirt on the other side. and as | ironed
replaced them on the clothes bars
MS repeated until every piece was
I thoroughly dry and smooth. When this
was finished felt well repaid, for the
material looked like new.
now laid the pieces out on the floor
IN me sunlight, so that any spot might
pe Ieau,lE seen, mating together those
intended to cut double for instance
the front and back parts of tho ,ro,,sar,
me sleeves, the backs and the undsr'
arms. 'o "'''er
knew ! could use no general skir,
pattern. and must depend unon ,,9oas
urements. which seemed easv 70 ,naa.
STOOD hrst took a two-inch belting .na
,astened 1t around my waist, putting
me opening just where the openinp ~
me SKIRT was 10 be Then I used the
p,eces or mohair lining as a foundation
eNiIt' Fastening it upon this belt. and
making eighteen inches in length, To
me bottom of this intended dronnIny
'he serge drop skirt made of the trou.
sers The diagram shows how 7 oh
saIneo s these straight pieces OF serge
rom tne trousers. | sewed a front TO
BACK part. firmly stitching and
pressing the seams open smoothly OF
course | used these pieces on the cross
wise of the material and so folded ,bsr,
over and marked the center of back and
front with white thread now
trimmed off the most uneven edges and
turned what had been the front part
or the trousers upon the foundation
SKIRT TO this ! fastened the serge
drop, starting from the center, and Ian
ping the fronts over the backs on tho
side seams, having first turned it back.
so as TO make the exact width across
the front twenty.seven inches when fin
ished. The back slipped under this,
having It thirty-four inches wide from
the lapped-over fronts.
Now I pinned up the bottom the de-
sired length. I faced this edge some
three inches, and finished the side open
ings with button molds covered with the
silk ! had bought These held these
sides together without stitching. I had
cut two widths OF the silk. twenty-six
inches long These l had hemmed and
now laid in easy pleats about five
inches below the top of the belt 7
allowed one of the front seams TO open
down eight inches and to pass over the
foundation opening about four inches.
to the left. This fastened with snap
fasteners and all was in readiness now
for the coat part.
! first cut out this coat part to see
Just what should be used First I took
a shirtwalst pattern, as I believed this
would do nicely in cutting the shoulders,
armholes and neck. but must rely on
my eye to trace out a straight effect
from armhole TO length | desired. This
did by pinning on the back OF my
pattern piece of newspaper and meas
urng to the full allowance of the coat
back, which was twenty-seyen inches
long. There had been a seam down
the center of the coat, but by making
this appear like an intended narrow
pleat, | gave 1t the effect of one OF the
present modes of finishing. So this old
back made my back; the old underarms
also used for the same but this lower
edge turned UP under and from there
basted the piece | cut from the under
part Cf the sleeve.
The fronts cut out of the upper parts
OF the sleeves (see illustration). The
vest | made from the old fronts and also
took the belt just across the back from
these. This belt I made almost ten
inches long and four inches wide and
held 1t close TO the back seams with the
button mods. When these were cut,
] then knew what had for around the
armholes in the foundation waist, which
I made of silk.
After the material had been sewed