The sun., 1919-06-02
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
OF PERUVIAN CITIES
Traveller Tells of Trade in
CallaO, Chief Port of the
Republic.
LIMA FULL OF LEGENDS
Nationals Fiery In Their Par
tisais;hip--SOme Historic
Structures.
LIMA FULL OF LEGENDS
tBv Special stag Correspondent


A distinguished American gentlema n
who has just arrived in South America
writes a letter TO the South American
Section OF THE Sun, from which we cx-
uact certain paragraphs:
After seven days of travelling be-
tween Panama and Callao was able TO
give myself the pleasure for the first
time in my life of setting foot OH South
American soil. From the time / was
very young l wished to know the coun-
tries so famous In the history OF the
continent-Brazil, Argentina and Chile
as well rs the smaller ones which ars
developing IN a very surprising manner.
North American has such a confused
conception Of the Latin American people
and makes such mixture OF their
names and their histories that It is
difficult TO find persons able TO liscrim-
mate between other countries than those
which have named. The rest are in
Guided in the general expressions OF
South America" or Latin America"
Callao, the principal port OF Peru.
monopolizes almost the entire import
and export trade. The other Peruvia n
ports are very small and poor. Callao
has a population of 10000 people and
some buildings after the European style.
Its docks are OF old construction. but
very solid. and ] noted they already are
A quantity Of negroes and mulattos OF
the lower class are seen here. and as I
learned later the greater part of the
population OF the country is little mixed
with the white race. The district of La
Punta IL the most attractive section of
Callso. made 70 by the modern cottages
OF the prosperous foreign merchants and
some rich Peruvian families.
Lively Scenes in Streets.
The streets are made lively by a mixed
crowd OF natives, negroes, Chinese and
women wearing black shawls over their
gay colored dresses. Many do not wear
shoes. but show habits OF cleanliness.
The lack of paved streets keeps the at
mosphere very dusty. Bazaars, motion
pictures, taverns and ambulant pedlers
give Callao n certain air of gayety and
hustle which Is very common in the
Orient
Lima. the celebrated capital OF Peru.
is short distance away and on clear
days can be seen from the decks of
steamers anchored in Callao. All cleo
trio railroad and steam railroad con-
meet the two cities, which in the future
win be as one through the natural re-
suit OF progress The two railroads men,
toned furnish excellent SERVICE so that
the 'chalacos" tcottagers), as the ma
tlves call them in CaIlao. can go TO and
come from the capital at any moment
The surrounding country Is cultivated.
Along the road the "huacas" are SEEM
These are the old Indian cemeteries
'",iud shaped. and where hundreds of
e AYES have been found. The Govern
ment gives some care to their preserva-
ton. but the rough weather is gradually
destroying them. Back from the road
nv alxg tttY,. L.
abandoned among the verdure and some
in complete ruin. I am told that these
ruins are in great part memories of the
war with Chile. 1t Is my belief that
they are only the result Of neglect, as
the people have no interest III the suburbs
when the capital Is so near by and the
means of communication so easy Mead
ows and orchards extend as far as the
eye can see and far in the background
the high mountains form a majestic
landscape.
Ancient Cal ttaI Is Historic.
Lima rests at the foot OF a hill called
San Cristobal. on the crest Of which is
radio sta ton. There also seems to be a
fortress there. At tle foot of this hill
the city is cut Off by the River Rimac.
the bed of which at certain points is a
deposit OF refuse. which robs It Of all its
beauty.
This ancient capital of the Spanish
vceroys has a tradition that is indeed
poetic and is full of legend. Its popula-
ION does not number more than 10 900
souls. The houses are of special type
not 10 he found in ANY other part OF
america aDd which recall the dwellings
Of the small Spanish villages. They all
have large doors, bars at the windows,
patios with flower boxes and on the
second floor an enclosed balcony
which often times embraces the
whole front OF the house. The fami-
les OF the old aristocracy still guard in
tact their pride of blood and descent. al.
ihough their offspring have mixed with
the more modern people. The nobiliary
coat OF arms Is frequently seen in the
portico under the elaborate beams and
there are residences which must have
been very maDorisl in the colonial
days. judging from their pretentiousnC S.
The new suburban towns, while still in
The embryo stage, present some buildings
~ good French taste. The people walk
letsurely through the streets and the few
automobiles, public and private. pass the
same point SO many times that they give
he ILLUSION OF being many more.
The colored population predomipates
ana in the less improved districts a null
titudo of Chinese is seen, which is be-
presence in Peru should concern the
Government somewhat More than the
Chinese, abound the churches on all
s1des OF all colors and OF all ages, Civ
ing to Lima an aspect that is almost
Inonastic. I cannot explain this excess
81 chapels, churches and oratories in
,uch a small city. Rarely has the tenn
pie any artistic me IT, The cathedral is
huge mass OF unburnt brick dried In
lie sun, with porticoS Of stoDe nj oh
hsrbors some old tapestries and orna-
Elents OF value.
PartIsanship In Fiery.
We become acquainted with some
very friendly persons with an agreeable
manner hut terribly preocclplcd with
internal politics. They are fiery In the ir
partisa nship, a fact which reveals why
there have been no many revolutions and
uprlsfhgs in Peru even during the war
with Chile. My TIVE principal annOta-
tons of the Peruvian characts- ure,
FIRST, that OF the politics and. second.
their hatred OF Chile. When speaking
w confidence they declare that Bolivia
betrayed them in 1919 and left them
alone to face the enemy J. dKidually
they treat the Chilesns we'll but as a ma
tonality they ahhor them
Nevertheless. many families of the
Chilean aristocracy arc Joined by ties
CT relationship to Peruvian fam!Iics and
l. 10 surprising TO note tho number OF
narrisges made between them aftcr The
war
Ny attention is called to a nllrun,ent
erected TO commemorate the de.tsnse of
lao In 1884 against the Spar It
las the hgure OF woman anc AT her
iret the name and coat OF arms "a Chile.