davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
THEY ARE SURE TO SHRINK
When Buying Housedresses, or Max Ing Them, Allow for One
 Size Larger. .

Always have enough housedresses. To be sure cottons are high priced, but if you make them yourself or buy them at store where the prices are not exorbitant the cost should not be prohibitive. If you buy them ready made do make sure to get them size larger than your regular size. They are sure to shrink and it is almost never that the manufacturer shrinks the materials before the dresses are cut out. If you make your own then you have the advantage in being able to shrink it we'll beforehand. Even then you must remember that the goods will probably shrink little more in the third and fourth washing so do not make them a bit scrimpy, but add little for this later shrink age.
 There is one great advantage in the all-white-wash dress and that is that it can be boiled and dried in the sun without fear of losing color. How many dresses have you had to discard or have you wished that you might discard because they have faded? You know what an unbecoming yellow green becomes toward the end of the season, how brownish the most attrac- tive violet, while blue turns gray and gray turns brown. White cotton mate rials dried in the sun and air only become the showier for frequent washings.
 On the other hand white does show the least spot very soon, and to the housewife who has to pay for her laundry work by the piece there is certainly a disadvantage in this. Often a white housedress may be kept for several days simply by removing a single spot or streak as it comes. This can be done with little warm water and soap applied with cloth.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
CROWNLESS EVENING HAT
Wide Draped Band of TuIIe EncircIes Head and Is Worn Low Over
 the Forehead.

The very latest thing in evening hats is the wide draped band of tulle which encircles the head, is worn low over the forehead and Is guiltless of anything resembling a crown, unless perchance a single layer of sheer tulle may be called a crown.
 As a rule it is the coiffure itself which forms the crown, the high masses of curls and puffs which are now so extensively worn by all women filling the entire space left open by the draped band. Often the bands are adorned at the side with a sweeping osprey, or by a long, curled ostrich plume. In the latter case the plume is attached under a bow of the tulle, and sweeps down over the shoulder to curl around the neck. Bands of tulle, tied in broad Alsatian bows at the back, have also been noted at some of the recent smart first nights at the theaters. These evening headdresses, with few models in lingerie hats or garden hats, alone reflect the Alsatian influence.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
IN NEW UMBRELLA HANDLES
BakeIite Is Latest Material, Finished With Loop of Same Material
 or of Leather.

To be quite in accord with the pre- vailfng mode, one should see that the new umbrella boasts of bakelite handle, finishing with loop of the same material, or of leather, which will help one to retain this accessory in her possession for reasonable length Of time. The new substance comes in a variety of colors Gs.d can be obtained both transparent sad opaque, to suit the individual taste. The white bakelite closely resembles ivory or a very fine ccilUloid; waen yellow, it is clear like amber, and in delicate green it is slightly figured and almost like jade. The round ham, dle is movable to suit the convenience of the person carrying it, and the leather loops are attached at the low CT part of the straight handle. When one has learned the value of these protective loops, they are found al-
 most necessary thereafter.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
FROcKS FOR SMALL GIRL:
Pink and Blue chambrays Come in Dainty Models and Popular
 for Summer.

Frocks for the small girl this sum. mer are both quaint and practical. The ginghams are attractively combined collars, cuffs and chemisettes of sheer white materials. Plain pink, blue green, yellow or lavender chambrays are also made more dainty and becom. ing by collar and cuff sets of white organdie, dimity, batiste or linen lawn
 One house which makes a speciality of children's clothes shows numbers o1 quaintly charming frocks made from imported dimities, chambrays and swisses.
 Two of the models in an exhibit were made of chambray, one being in clear, apple-green tone. There is 8 plain short-waisted bodice belted with two-inch band piped with black. The belt is embroidered with colored posies and green leaves. The sleeves and neck are piped with black. Another frock is of pale-pink chambray, with the sheerest of scalloped white collars and cuffs. The frock also has a short waisted bodice and very full skirt is attached to the plain little bodice, the joining line being defined by piping of color. Embroidered posies, uneven in height, rise from the piping and em broidered lines to about one-third the bodice length. The skirt is also trimmed with embroidered lines.
 Dotted swiss is essentially fabric for children's wear, especially that weave which shows the tiniest of em broidered dots. Two dainty models re. gently noted were made of imported dotted swiss. One of the models was made of the dotted swiss, trimmed with black velvet ribbon and narrow frills of plaited organdie.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
POLLARD HAS FIRST PLACE
Fabric Is Prime Favorite Among spk Materials for Wear During
 Warm Weather.

Among the silk materials for the warm-weather frock the foulard has first place. The designs this season are exceedingly varied. The polka dot ranges in size from a pin-head to a half dollar. One very good pattern recently noted had several different sized circles of white clustered to- gether and plentifully scattered over the surface of navy blue ground. A very good-loolzing costume of this de- sign was combined with plain one-tone silk. The frock was simple of line. The plain material formed the body of the blouse and simulated peplum, while, the short sleeves and scalloped nouEc ces were of the polka dot foulard. Completing the costume was d leg horn hat trimmed with scarlet flow CTS.
 TO wear with many of the charming little organdie frocks wide-brimmed hats of the same material have been especially fashioned. These are trim ned with taffeta ribbon, and sometimes faced with taffeta. Jersey cloth, both in silk and wool, is one of the most favored silk materials.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
KODAK PURSE IS NEW STYLE
contrivance Opens Like Pieture-Mak- ing Outfit; Contains Small Re
 ceptacIe for Money.

The ,canteen vanity bag and purse will no longer have everything it's own way in the fashion field of faddish purses. It now has a rival-this Is the kodak purse. People who design pocketbooks are becoming quite as ver- satile as the, makers of gowns in find ing sources of inspiration for their patterns, and now they have turned their thought to the kodak, which, af- ter all, is likely idea to work out in a purse.
 These new vanity bags of colored ecrase feathers are made in the form of small cameras. Opening just like kodak, the front piece drops down, re- vealing a generous mirror. They are fitted with the accessories of beauty, such as lip stick, powder box, mirror and an eyebrow pencil, as well as memorandum. pad for shopping. Of course, these are the important things in the present-day shopping bag. It might be mentioned casually that they also contain small receptacle for the almighty dollar, which seems to be the last thing considered when making present-day shopping bags.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
TRIMMING FOR GIRLS FR0CKs
Crochet Buttons and Loops Among the
 Embellishments Added to Youth \ fui Clothes.

All manner of dainty trimmings are used on frocks for the small girl. For instance, charming model of white batiste had narrow plaited frill of f1esh-tinted organdie edging the nar- row turn-down collar and turn-back cuffs. The short bodice was made with box plait effect at the front, each side being edged with a frill. Pale pink crochet buttons and loops added further touch of establishment
 Many play frocks take on the lines of slip-on, the gown fastening be- Ing at the side or both sides or at the front at the uprer part. A smart little frock was made of plain and lowered material. The lower part of plain material was set on to the upper part, the joining line being cut in tab form, each tab ornamented by three pearl buttons and cord loops. The neck was square and the fastening was at either side of the blouse front --the closing being effected by but tons and loops. The upper part of tie frock was of the plain material.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
DADDY5Ev[NMGH
 FAIRY TALE E,1 %< Maxu ErShSy,a Rnnnef kXk2
ZEBU CHILD.
6y Mary Grahaggr. 2! B 6onnsstE l,!'.st

'The zebu child," said Daddy, twas a great joy to his mother. She was very proud of him, and no matter if he was not always perfect and we'll behaved child she thought he was lovely.
 "It is way that mothers have, you know"
 Nick and Nancy laughed for Daddy gave a knowing wink.
 'I can't always understand 1t my self," he said.
 But both the children knew that he could, for they knew, deep down. that he adored them and thought they were perfect, and besides he was never, never, never too tired to tell them goodnight story.
 'sThe zebu child and her mother lived in the ZOO and there were number of other zebus there, too.
 "In fact there were many other. anil malls all around Some times on a rainy day I've seen the zebus in the zoo with their heads out of their lit tie houses and their bodies inside as though they were saying.
 "'Weii, we'll shampoo our heads to- day, or at least we will give them rain washing. But our bodies had bet ter be inside. It's just as good as be- ing able to check our bodies in our houses, like folks check their umbrel- las and suitcases at the railway sta- ton to be called for when they want them.
 "We can't go off and leave our bodies behind but we do keep our bodies directly behind us so they don't get wet
 '"They looked quite funny with their heads all out of doors, their great cow-like eyes gazing up at the rain as though to say,
 "'What a silly thing rain is,. and yet it has its purposes. It is useful, but 1t is silly
 ''For they look as if they thought everything in the world was rather silly, just as creatures will look who aren't thinking much themselves.
 ''Well, heard the keeper talking to zebu child, this special zebu child
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
STYLES IN NEW YORK

A blouse of bright printed silk is joined to a skirt of accordion-plaited trfcollette in plain color.
 Straight-line, unbelted suits averag- ing 40 inches in length were worn by many fashionable women at the Bel mont races.
 The talk of Irish lace as returning rlore and more to favor for the better grade of blouse is persistent.
 Extremely long fringes are used on several French imports, bringing mod els that would otherwise end at the hips to knee length.
 Shades of brown and burnt orange are said to be good.
 Silk pongee summer suits, some lined with vivid shades of crepe de chine, favor oriental lines, including the man. darin coat.
 White tricolette is spoken of as one of the most popular materials for high priced sports warehouses.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01


 standard recipe which they will vary with flavoring, spice or fruit, or bake in different shaped tins with different filings or frostings, which will give a large variety.
 The time was when much creaming of butter and stirring of sugar and butter was thought the only way to make q butter cake, but these busy days are teaching us many ways of simplifying our work, and cake mak. ing must keep pace. The shortening, if softened-not melted-will mix with the sugar and it takes but short time to cream it; add little hot water or milk if hurried for time and then give the mixture a good beating, add ing the eggs beaten and give another good beating. A fair cake, good enough for everyday use, is one using three tablespoonfuls of butter or but ter substitute, one cupful of sugar, half cupful of milk. two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and 8 cupful and three-quarters of sifted four. Add f1avoring and bake in hot oven. A circle of well-greased paper piuSSu III lhc ldycI tluS, dS Well tiS deeper tins, will help to remove the cake without breaking.
 A cake that is baked with as little flour as will hold it up makes a much more tender and delicate one. The baking is a most important factor in good cake making. Have the oven very hot for layer cake and bake from 10 to 12 minutes. For a loaf cake which needs 40 minutes to bake. divide the time into quarters. The first ten minutes see that the cake begins to rise, the second ten minutes 1t finishes rising and begins to brown, the third ten minutes it finishes brown ing and begins to shrink from the pan, then the last ten or quarter it finishes baking. If a cake crackles as if still cooking when taken from the oven, but 1t back for few minutes.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
For Women and Children
MODE OF TRIMMING
Demand for Decorations Is Grati-
 fled With Novelties.
Difficult to Turn Frivolous ana Many Still Dress on War-Reduced
 Income.

It is the way of fashion to be for ever elusive, as 1t is the way of wom- en to be forever in search of some thing new. If she does not find charm of new interest in the silhouette, then she looks for novelty in material or in the manner of trimming. This season finds the slender silhouette still hold ing first place in the fashion world. It remains slim, perhaps simmer, but the whims of woman must be gratified by the vast variety and novelty of trim- mings, materials and accessories for this season.
 Fashion has grown very serious dur ing the last four years, and 1t is diff ficult to turn frivolous lover night" For the woman who is still dressing on a war-reduced income, 1t is wise to choose fashions that are established. gowns and suits fashioned after those most favored by the conservative wom- an, says Vogue.
 The top coat or motor coat Is per haps the most important piece in her wardrobe. To a woman who travels, this coat is invaluable, and its uses are many.
 When dull copper tricolette Is made up into a two-piece dress of simple becoming lines, it immediately becomes a garment of service, and is quite as appropriate for town as for country, as appears in a gown of this material which was seen recently. The top part of the dress is made like an over- blouse. The straight lines and unbrok en simplicity made it model suited to either matron or debutante. Four straight panels of the blouse fall over the straight skirt.
 Oyster white pussy-willow taffeta makes another country suit. The orig inal idea of quilting and embroider- ing 1t in navy blue silk comes from Lanvin. The straight box coat is em- broidered all over and has deep roll ing collar ending where two large navy blue buttons fasten the coat. The crochetted girdle is finished with weight-like tassels of blue silk. The deep hem of the skirt is marked with the quilting and outlined with embroid- cry, an effect which is very new. The coat is very smart worn as separate sports coat, and may, be used with sports skirt of white silk or navy blue pussy-willow taffeta.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
5 TIMELY FASHION TOPICS

The tendency is decidedly toward full fiaring overskirts with right under skirts.
 Charming face veils with chenille dotted motifs matching the hat trim- ming in color were recently noted at smart hotel at the tea hour.
 Lingerie blouses of net and of net and lace are feature of midsummer fashions. Both white and ecru net are seen and valenciepnes and filet lace are employed.
 The tailored sports blouse or rather sports shirt is developed in wash silk, pique, linen and flannel and in many instances is decidedly gay in colors that is, the stripe or figure of the fab ric is of gay coloring.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
Don't Feel Badly, Mother"

I want to tell you about and this was what the keeper said:
 "'You're six months old today" he told the zebu child. "and now you must be taken from your mother and made to look after yourself little more. E
 "sYou've had your mother ali to yourself for quite long time, you must now learn how not to be baby and how to be a grown-up zebu.'
 "'Ah, I'm six months old today the zebu child said proudly. Think, mother, Pm six months old.'
 "'Yes, my child is a grown-up son now she said, he is real zebu?
 "The zebus, you know, are the sa- cred cattle of India. They look like great gray cows, only they have humps. Their faces are like cows and they belong to that family.
 .'There is no reason for their humps, and no special reason why they should be made the sacred cat tie of India. But still they have humps, and they have always been considered the sacred cattle of India just the same.
 "Both the MT. Zebus and the Mrs. Zebus have horns and they're all pretty nice for the most part.
 "'Good-by to your babyhood, said Mother Zebu sadly, for though she was proud that her child was really child now and not baby, still she couldn't bear to think that his baby days were over.
 "The zebu baby, or zebu child was delighted that he was considered really quite grown up and that he was actually six months old.
 "Don't feel badly, mother he said, for now can look after you. will care for you when you get old for am young and strong
 And the mother zebu looked at him out of her great big wet eyes and said,
 "'Ah, what child he still is.'
 "But the zebu child didn't think so at all, and only thought that that was his mothers way of making him be- lieve that he was still young.
 "I'm six months old he kept re- beating proudly to himself. Six. months old, great and terrific age 1t isr he added"
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
ALL KINDS OF SHOE BUCKLES

Shoe buckles of cut steel, of sflver. gold, gunmetal, bronze and jet are sold for street wear. Silver and gold buckles are elaborately set with rhine stones, Amethysts, sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and shoes thus adorned are worn with afternoon and evening costumes.
 A pretty fad is the matching of the stones in the shoe buckles and back combs and in the ornaments used on the evening gown.
 For morning wear, cat steel buckles lead in popularity, with bronze a close second for brown or tan pumps. Buckles of bronze beads are also shown for wear with brown and tan pumps.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
HATSMATCHFROCK
Successful Costumes Have Head
 gear That Harmonizes.
Pleasing Combination and obvi- ates Clash.

The skirt of the tailored street frock is usually long. When there is an at tempt to keep to the familiar short length, it Is made uneven of line by in- set panels or by an upward slant from front to back. Or the skirt may be fashioned with panels at the front and back or at the sides which are slightly longer than the main part of the skirt.
 The jackets of the 1919 tailored suits are varied. Some of them are straight and are put on over the head like seaman's blouse. These are very smart and youthful looking. Sometimes such jackets are embroidered with tape or soutache in contrasting color.
 Many of the long coats are also em- broidered in similar style. These coats are simple of line, made with long sleeves and straight back. They are especially liked for wear with the silk afternoon frocks and may be worn over gowns of linen, organdle or other sheer summery materials.
 A wrap sometimes replaces the coat or jacket, but these manteaus are difficult to describe. They are new in shape and all-enveloping and are made of duvetyn or silken material or fine serge.
 Many of the summer frocks for after noon wear shown at the more exclusive houses have hats to accompany each costume. A well-known couturier stat ed recently that in designing toilet the importance of the accompanying headgear should not be overlooked 1; this should be in harmony with the costume. And it must be admitted that this arrangement brings about a greater degree of harmony in the cos tune. Too often one notes costume otherwise perfect, marred by the hat worn with it.
 An exceedingly dainty frock of white batiste has a vest and tunic skirt inset with cluny lace. The short sleeves are also trimmed at the lower
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
Checks Are the Ihinu.

Checks are in for q good deal of at tention. They appear in many of the new ribbons, and some of the newest sweaters are knitted in checked de- signs. Often, too, a sweater is made with a checked border, and with q checked band at the lower edge of the full sleeves.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
Vests of Ribbon.

Gold and silver brocade vests made of ribbons are in good style. They are finished with q little belt across the front of gold or silver cord, knotted into bucklelike ornament at the cen ter front.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01

part with an inset band of the lace. Accompanying the frock is a quaint poke bonnet of rose taffeta and straw the hat facing and crown are of the rose taffeta. A small cluster of roses is placed at either side of the hat crown, underneath which long stream CTS are fastened.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
KeKTTOHEN
 GABLNEEzz49 z49

The food supply would be probably better selected, varied and cooked. if .he daily supervision were allotted definitely to one who has been trained for the purpose, and chosen because of capacity for the office.
 Cake is to the appetite what mirth is to the melancholy.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
cettino Excited.

There is more than one way of get ting excited. With some girls excite ment means scatter-brained action, and energy dissipated, while with others excitement is the spur that keeps them doing their best. If you are going to get excited, be sure it Is the sort Of excitement that helps. not that which hinders.-Girl's Companion.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01

Some women can't see why anyone should attend a housekeepers' short course when all that is needed to keep house is a can opener and vacuum cleaner.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
N.u NlexmteQ.
H Hk,!9f:H!5lEn 9a5
 CABINETI

Only the possessions which we use are of present value to us. A man may have a money fortune, and yet be poverty stricken in the very things which that money would buy him. The money is his all the time; but 1t is of little or no value to him because he lets 1t alone.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
Be Slow to Condemn.

Why condemn an individual or id. stitution before you hear both sidest Does jury convict or judge sem tence prisoner before the evidence Is heard?
The labor standard., 1919-09-01

materials to be used ready at hand before be ginning, or in the midst you will find some im- portant ingredient miss ing which will need q change of plans.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01

il II 1 s h e d with some kind of des- sert, and usually feel if none is provided that the dinner is not a success.
 Peach Sherbct. Put a pound of
The labor standard., 1919-09-01

Lavish embroidery on the side of this attractive coat makes 1t crea- ton of exquisite beauty. The coat Is of navy blue satin. The embroidery is of blue chenille. The same motif at the side of the dress Is carried out ron the sleeves and the collar. The blue and maroon silk belt and straps on the coat are all in one piece.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
WHAT TO EAT.

There are few people who feel that meal has been satisfying that is not
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
CAKE MAKING.

Just a word to those who are yet in- experienced in the art of cake making.
The labor standard., 1919-09-01
NU1 m1a<~ez
The OId-Fashioned Folio,

The advantage of the old-fashioned folio was that it was safe from bor. rOWerS-EmerSon.