davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
Your Sewing Equipment

loose at one END and sew an end OF
tape three or four inches long at one
side of the square OF chintz. Then
the boards are slipped in place and the
chlntz is sewed together. Put a paper
OF needles in the fiat loop, an alumni
mum thlmble in its loop and slip a big
spool Of coarse basting thread, suitable
for sewing up poultry, over the loose
end of the tape, tying the end Of the
tape in a secure bow with the other
end.
There should be good pair OF steel
scissors hanging with this sewing kit.
A pair of tiny, ten-cent scissors might
be slipped in another little tape loop
and these scissors might be used to
snip threads.
But the good pair OF steel scissors
should be hung on a peg near the
kitchen table-perhaps a peg in the
end of the kitchen table.
These scissors will come in fol-
dozens of uses that any housewife will
think OF.
For one thing. when raisins are tc
be chopped for cake. flour the scissors
and cut the raislns. This will be
found far more satisfactory than try
ing to chop them in bowl.
When meat Is to be cut for a stew
1t can often be most easily cut with
scissors.
Lettuce can be quickly shredded and
so can be cabbage with scissors.
Many other uses will suggest them
selves from time to time.
The scissors, OF course, should al.
WAYS be thoroughly cleaned and dried
after each using,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

A SEWING kit OF some kind Is a
~ great help in the kitchen. 1t
should not be simply a big
needle and a spool of coarse cotton
sitting in a window sill and a pair
OF scissors hiding somewhere In a table
drawer. 1t should be a we'll equipped
Htt.e box or bag or case Of some sort,
always in a known place. filled with
sewing materials-not to mend aprons
and torn dish towels, but for use in
PREPARING food.
Incidentally a bag containing a
thinSle, a spool OF white cotton and
some needles and buttons, TO use to
mend kitchen towels, dining room
Hncn, dust cloths and aprons and caps,
might he good idea.
But the sort Of sewing kit that is a
COOKS good friend is one that is fur
hlShed with sewing materials for food.
4 convenient sort of kit is made by
covering two squares Of pasteboard,
winch measure four or five inches
each way, with cretonne and then
oPeghanding the two together. Better
SUI, seam the two pieces OF cretonne
on three sides, turn the seams on the
inside and slip two pieces OF paste
board In. This leaves only one side
to be- overhanded.
Before fastening the pieces OF Gre
tonne together fasten a strip of tape
across the face Of one. Leave a small
ioop at one side Just big enough to
nod a thimble. Have another fiat
loop Of tape in which a paper OF big
needles can be slipped Leave the tape
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

the other spots where extreme clothes
are exhibited.
No one knows whence they come
or where they go. They seem to be
birds OF paradise who wake UP
after six o'clock in the evening.
1t is this class, along with the fash
ionable classes, who have launched
this era of semi-nudity in the evening
And It is because Of this fashion OF
the hour that the students of clothes
and Of the race turn to the psychology
behind the act and dip into other cen
turtles when the same thing has &C.
CURED and reoccured. until it has
become symptomatic Of certain con-
ditions.
Postwar Apparel.
Here is one interesting point about
1t: 1t has invariably broken loose at
the end of war.
Throughout the centuries It has
sprung into flame the moment the
cannon stopped firing.
Its history goes further back than
cannon. 1t may be traced 10 the days
of bows and arrows, of battering rams
/ OF those battles led by Hamlicar, wher
poisonous snakes were thrown oveI
the walls of besieged city as more
deadly than stones.
The higher the form Of living anG
the expression of culture in the an.
Client cradles Of civilization the more
quickly women took to semi-nudity
when peace was declared.
One could write book on this phase
OF human nature. No one can encom.
pass even the fragmentary side of &
in a short chapter.
One can go back to the Caesars, anC
then to the PhFaohs to find example,
| Of It; but the modern mind content:
| itse!f with the recrudescence OF semi
nudity when the Cromwellian war;
| were over and the Stuart restored anC
when Robespierre was dead and tn,
Directoire took up days Of partia
peace and gayety.
What happened after those wars ha,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

lines, like the others. but there is a
lattice work of tulle strands or velvet
ribbon across the bare back.
The tulle IL more attractive than
the ribbon. 1t softens the skin and
gives the back the appearance Of being
yelled.
For instance, on a rose pink taffeta
frock which has outstanding puffs on
the hips run with whalebones and a
transparent lace founce below the
knees the bodice, which is cut to a
deep Elizabethan point in front and
reaches well above the bust, dips to
the waist in back.
This open space, mind you. is not
v shaped or U shaped. 1t has straight
lines at the sides and Is cut of at the
belt on a straight line OF six or seven
inches. Across this open space in this
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

tional warmth of a walstcoat VIII
probably be irksome, For that reason
the bright colored knitted waistooats
win be something in much demand
by next autumn. and the woman of
forethought will have the wherewfthal
to make some of these during vaca-
ton days.
Knitted CATERS have made thar
appearance in Paris this spring.
White wool, snugly knitted. answers
the purpose of a spat on a pnmo
and appears to good advantage. May
hap this is a style that viii find favor
here as the weeks pass. We are
told that shoes are going to be much
higher in price next autumn and
leather 30 scarce that most folks Will
find II best TO wear pumps and gait
ers. In that case these we'll knitted
gaiters- might be n really useful fad
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
Latest Sensations Include Costume
With Immense Tulle Butterfly and
Another to Which Ostrich Feather
Gives Most Startling Effect 4

resting against the skin and giving .
somewhat vague outline to the decoi-
letage. ~
It is an attractive trick. It 10 psw
and may prove more acceptable in the
future than at the present momertIa
Whenever a new and daring fashion
appears one should not look at merely
the exaggerated forms of 1t. There
are always women willing TO exploit
these, but they are merely heralds. OF
a movement that Is to come. The
women who wear the backless bodices
with the ostrich feathers and butter
flies posed on the spine are forerun-
ners of an entire fashion Of bodies
which have their sensational features
in back and not in front. %
This Is the way a fashion SINNERS
down from the few to the many. from
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

words as they are used in this epoch
Of the worlds history.
And on this upper class" are put
most OF the burdens of iniQuity. They
are asked to be the bearers OF all that
is wrong: and yet, those who know
clothes and sell clothes realize that
there goes hand in hand with this
class a vaster assemblage OF other
women who are not ticketed. They
merely wear new things whenever
new things appear, even II they go
without bread and butter or sleep in a
two by four tenement room.
One sees them as the gayest OF
butterflies. shoulder to shoulder with
the fashionable women, at restau-
rants, public dances. theatres and a1l
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

eXclusiveness to popularity. Tho pub
lie rarely remembers how the idea
started. 1t does not link up the -Sar-
ing Of the few with the common ac-
ceptance Of the mass. 1t sees no con-
nection between the two: and yet 1t,
the public, nearly always adopts in a
modified form the exact fashion which
shocked 1t in the beginning
II is probable that through the sum-
mer the public will wear bodices that
are deeply transparent in the back.
Lace. tulle. embroidery and chiffon will
be the fabrics to contribute to this
transparency and the effect win be
modest. Not every one cares to be dar-
ing.
Court Plaster Used.
There are women to-day who ac-
centuate the eXpanse OF bare back
they present to the public by RESORT
ing to tho eighteenth century trick Of
placing figurations of black dourt
plaster on the back.
The Americans did that in Colonial
days. The English were always fond
Of It. Very often In the history of
dress the excessively deep decolletage
at the back has brought out the white
wig and the black court plaster.
What exact figuration the 4ourt
plaster takes is left to the whim Of the
woman herself. Let us hope that II
will not grow in accentricity to thb ex-
tent of the designs on the new Paris
underwear.
This has taken the form of an Amer
lean locomotive with a train of cars
running around the hem OF chemise.
1t would be startling, don't you
think, for a woman to appear with
black court plaster train and, an
American locomotive steaming straight
across her spine. ,o-
There are women in this country
who are capable OF it. ~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
rUDITY among women is a Gus
tom among savages. Half

1UDITY among women is Gus
M tom among savages. Half
l ' nudity among women is a
symptom Of high civilization. Why
topheavy civilization should fall into
some of the crude practices of uncivil-
lied races Is beyond the scope Of re-
porter Of apparel. The students Of the
human race may explain 1t.
That which is excessively rude Is
often followed by that which is excess
s,vely cultivated. There seems to be
a slamese twin bond between the two
which Is covered up most Of the time
and merely appears at intervals.
Nudity in the savage is not immod-
est semi-nudity in a civilized woman
IL considered so. Naturally. The
spirit Is the thing.
One Of the powerful French critics
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
CoLoRED HANDKERCHIEFs,

Colored linen handkerchiefs. in the
conventional shades Of lavender. pink,
yellow and blue. show a drawn-worlS
band set in a little from the hem
stitched hem. These handkerchiefs are
especially dainty and any woman who
likes colored handkerchiefs will be
sure 70 ma them attractive
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

pecially afternoon frocks for young
girls.
If women adopt the short skirts
that are inflltrating into the fashions
from France they will give up the low
heeled shoes that have been fashion
able during the war. There will be a
great demand for high heeled slippers
and extremely fanciful pumps, so it is
said
- Since America went int the war
women have seen the absurdity OF
high heelod pumps with big buckles
worn with simple war frocks and uni
forms. and with the long, tight skirt
the oxford with the fiat or Spanish
heel went very we'll; but the new skirt
demands new footgear.
The fashion able stockings are so
thin that they are transparent They
have two or four embroidered clocks
at the side Dark blue and chestnut
brown are two colors that are pre-
ferred to black.
The milliners are putting out hats
that are covered with flounces Of black
lace. and the hat with the transparent
crown, under which the hair is heaped,
is seen on many women.
The fitted bodice which is brought
down we'll below The waist line comes
into fashion at time when the corset
less figure is adopted.
1t Is not possible for the American
woman to connect the two styles. She
Is too loosely built and too broad OF
bone to wear n fitted bodice over an
unbound figure; so the struggle be-
tween the two fashions will be inter
esting to watch.
A gift for a man or young boy Is one
of the new combination penknives and
pencils. These are made in gold or
silver and are no larger than an ordi-
nary pocket penknife. The little screw
pencil is arranged at the back OF the
blades. and the ring that works 1t may
be used to hold the penknife on q
chain.
For little girls guimpes are showr
again. This accessory Of child dres!
has always been highly desirable. bot
j because 1t looks well and because 1t 4
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

the fuu balloon skirt Is giving place
to the skirt which is pulled at the hips
to stand out like panniers.
Whatever else is advanced in fashion.
Il appears quite probable that we shall
have the circumference Of our hips
exaggerated after the manner OF the
Spanish fashions of the early seven
tenth century. Maybe Spain is to be
widely copied in the new clothes. The
black lace mantilla has already ap-
peared as a headdress for fashionable
brides, and It Is simulated on street
hats.
The new hip sashes in colored
taffeta, tulle, beaded tissues and satin
tie at each side instead OF at the back
or front. They are finished over each
hip with an immense bow or. outstand-
ing loops.
Monkey fur continues to be in fashion,
and even the dressmakers who OPP
posed 1t show a slight affection for II
now. 1t is especially used on summer
capes, which have entirely taken the
place Of top coats.
Capes for afternoon and evening are
offered by the shops and dressmakers
as though the garment were strictly
new. Coats seem to be entirely out OF
the fashion except for motoring.
There are heavy satin capes cut In
two pieces with a tight hem and a
full loose upper part. The sleeves are
very wide, in the Spanish fashion, and
the cape Is drawn upward and fas-
tened snugly under the hips. This
is the line which prevailed in 1918
and which has returned to fashion.
Among the successful capes are
those OF chiffon lined with colored tat
feta or satin. A brown chiffon cape
Is lined with brickdust red chiffon
and a black cape will be lined with
| bright French blue taffeta-
Curious. fantastic arrangements o,
ostrich feathers continue to be thu
indoor sport of milliners are dress
| makers.
No longer are these feathers applied
to the gown in punches or as fringe, OIL
at least. II they take this method q
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

displaying themselves. II Is not con-
sidered aught but conventional
Dressmakers with imagination make
flowers OF ostrich feathers, or they
use them to outline embroidery. They
are also used as collars in some curl
oua design. they are built into tassels,
and they make entire sleeves, short
though they are.
Lemon yellow continues to he an
acceptable color. 1t was launched by
the French In February and by the
Americans in April, and now the pub
lie finds in II a color that Is cool to
wear and cool to see.
Apple green is its rival.
As for the short sleeve, 1t seems to
have won out in frocks for the coun-
try.
It is seen here and there at the
smart restaurants, worn by women
who like to keep up with new thing
rather than be conservative. Ions
gloves are rarely worn with II. The
frock is usually covered by a cape In
the open, and the arms and hands are
bare in the house.
The fashion is not unattractive
when one is well frocked and indoors
but the ordinary way in which 1t has
appeared on cheap gowns and worn or
the street. without gloves, is a cause
for protest.
The corsetless figure has caused 6
demand on the part of stout womer
for less heavy bones and much web
bling. Corsets are very long on al
figures that are not slender below the
waist, but the flesh is held in by
webbing rather than by whalebones.
Crepe de chine continues to be one
OF the most sought after fabrics foi
summer frocks. 1t Ia used In al
cclors and for all occasions.
II is not one of the materials tina
are good when cheap. Even economi
cal women insist upon getting tn,
best quality. for they know that 1
lasts for several seasons.
In dark blue II forms the basis OF
practical wardrobe. 1t is rarely useC
in black. In white and in the paste
! shadeS~ It serves Tor evening, and ss
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
Fashion Notes Cleaned From the Smart Shops

a practical thing, and mothers are glad
to have It return TO summer fashion.
The guimpe sleeves are finished with O
little lace usually, or else simply with
frill Of the sheer white fabric from
which the guimpe is made.
A new idea is that of white candle
sticks. We used to have silver candle
sticks or colored pottery candlesticks
with white candles. Now behold the
white porcelain candlestick with the
colored candle. Blue candles are often
used, with a centrepiece of white flow
ers in a blue dish. The result is really
very attractive.
Some of the new silk sweaters have
wide turn back collars OF contrasting
color that extend to form revers down
the sides of the front. They are held
back by the wide belt. The belt and
rever collar on a cerise sweater are of
gray, and on a purple sweater they
are Of soft old gold.
Many of the belts on the new suits
show buckles. This is a change from
the string belt that nonchalanuy
looped or tied about our waists last
winter. Bone and jet and metal are all
used for these buckles
The colorings OF Persia are in for
attention. 1t is long time since we
have consciously used these colors, al
though, as they include most OF those
In the rainbow, we have used them
nevertheless. But now we talk again
OF Persian colorings, and use that dis
tinctive shade of green with the dis
tinctive shade of red that makes for
effectiveness in the Persian combina-
ton.
Jet tipped feathers and pompons
arc smart trimming accessories or
some OF the new straw hats.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

For little girls guimpes are shown
again. This accessory Of child dress
has always been highly desirable. both
because 1t looks well and because 1t u
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

Jet tipped feathers and pompons
arc smart trimming accessories on
some OF the new straw hats.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22
Women Make Fashions.

II is said that the dressmakers, are
responsible. Not so. No dressmhker
could make a group Of women wear
anything they disliked.
The dressmaker who rides to success
on the wave of psychology, who is
ready to give a woman what she wants
the exact moment she wants It, is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

/ pecially afternoon frocks for young
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-22

Capes for afternoon and evening are
offered by the shops and dressmakers
as though the garment were strictly
new. Coats seem to be entirely out OF
the fashion except for motoring.
The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1919-02-13
"Me-und Gott"; Why the Former Kaiser
Called Upon His Colt in Vain
By HEREWARD DARLINGTON, Phi. D.

While the exkaser insisting upon his panersh"Go init
Me und Gothe German performing deeds cruelty
and bararm which unparalleled history And know that these
deeds performed by the oey under strict orders from the high
command.
How to reconcile these apparently rreconca factors
At first sight be in mahou dealing with persons
be objected that the kaiser merely posng-hat
not sincere His religious convictions however, appear be genuine We
only suppose that believing his divine right he believed he could
do wrong nothing naeed long Germany conquered
this understand Terrorism The divine right
to subugae the world explains it. This the the kaiser and
the German arstocracy without doubt and that
from this standpoint might be deeply religious and
tremely cruel.
But what kind of God this have? Surely
love- it rather God of hate wratfu and engeu
monarch partisan strife and might He medieval anhropo
mophc Deity corresponding the older Tuonic conception of Thor
In short the Colt of this Hohenzorn the product of his
BRAIN of his imagination. William II being
he worshped and admired which less counterpart of him
semore gorfed The God which the kaiser worspd whom he
prayed is absolutely different from the being worhped
different light from darkness love from hate sympathy from de-
strucon and The kasers typical
opposed to the spirit Of love, peace and justice
The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1919-02-13
Sherman Law Is Out Of Business in
Reconstruction of Railroads
By T. P. SHONTS

We must take control Of the railroads effect
facand let that be point of departure And
that the system of operation has which
be sacrificed Most of m indeed embody reforms for which
railroad officers have clamored these many years.
First foremost the Sherman
out the window by Fairfax Harrison and the railroad board
but President chorofored
and embamed it on the 28th of December 1917.
Let briefly suggest the other obvious blessings present
regime:
l. The pooling Of equipment and terminals.
g. The elimination duplicated service.
g. The economical loading and routing of freight
4 The unfcaton of passenger ticket offices.
The elimination Of the frs of the business
for which adequate fare paid etc.
The frank recognition of the necessity part government
which adds the expenses Of operation to find the and
fares with which to pay those expenses.
These great gains and is the duty every railroad to see
to that they brought clearly public attention We must face the
fact frankly that the decision of this issue absolutely
hands of the public As practical railroad experience and
observer Of operation world am con-
WINGED that the most economical operation under private
And the gains have government oneraton
all be retained under private ownership.
The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1919-02-13
LINC0LNVILLE

Leslie Gray was at home from Camden
Sunday,
Row Allen of Belfast was a Sunday
guest at L. S. Russ.
Miss Ruth Hurd of Rockland passed
the week END at her home here
Mrs. Bessie Wentworth, Spiritualist
speaker, was in Augusta over Sunday.
Miss Georgia Hall of Belfast is guest
of her parents, MIR. and Mrs. Benson Hail.
Miss Flora Young, who has been at the
Waldo County HOSPITAL for several weeks,
has returned home.
The Extension School on Soil Fertility
is being held at the Grange hall this week
and is well attended.
Don't forget the mask ball at Tranquil
ity hall on FRIDAY eve, Feb. 14th. Good
music; excellent management. A baked
bean supper viii be served.
The Ladies Aid" will hold a baked
bean supper and sale on Thursday evening"
Feb. 18th, at the home of Mrs. Lillian
Mahoney, and hope for liberal patron
age.
The "Once in a While Club" met at
the home of Mr.. and Mrs. Charles Stevens
on Monday evening, Feb. 3rd, and royalty
entertained several guests not members of
the Club. Among those were Mr.. and Mrs
Frank Dickey, Mr. and Mrs. Howard Elms
Mr.. and Mrs. Henry Hurd and MIR. and
Mrs. Ed. Goodwin. A delicious banquet
was served consisting of clam chowder
pickles, crackers. pies and cakes of vari-
Gus kinds; also baked beans, doughnuts
to which each and all did ample Justice
The evening was most pleasantly passed
IN vocal and instrumental music, Mrs
Effie Goodwin pres ding at the organ, &C.
companied by Dr. E. F. Gould, violinist
The hours sped all too quickly A. S.
Kelley was present with his new Edison,
which added greatly to the entertainment
At the close of the occasion all joined in
singing, "Where Shall We Go From
Here" after which ice cream and cake
was served Mrs. Fife Rankin, and Mrs.
Annie Lermond acted as hostesses The
Club will hold its next meeting on Mon
day evening, Feb. oath, at the home of
Nh and Mrs Richard Lermond, this &C.
casion being in honor of the birthdays of
Miss Calie Lermond and Stanley Gray.
Special invitations will be announced.
An ant quarian supper will be served,
Mrs Lydia Stevens and Mrs. Vema Ord
way viii act as hostesses