davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-10-19

wonderful tonic exercises. They mako
you happy and eyhilarated"
The New York League of Women
Workers. with headquarters at East
Forty-fifth street. has been organizing
girls in evening recreational clubs for
over thirty years, sees the relation OF
work and play in the life OF the self
supporting girl and helps girls to work
out their own programmes. 1t was
the first among the recreational or
ganizations for girls to stand for the
democratic principles Of self-govern-
ment, self-support and nonsectarian-
ism.
From October IL to 25 a campaign
for 10000 new members and 100000
in cash for extension work will he held
in New York The girls themselves, or
ganized under Mrs. Henry S. Olles-
heimer, form one large team. with
captains, lieutenants and prlvates, to
interest members and contributors.
They will be assisted by officers of the
New York and the national league,
including Mrs. Kenneth j. Muir, Miss
Virginia Potter, Mrs. Bernard l.. Pol
lax, Miss Jean Hamilton, Mrs Court
landt ID. Barnes, Mrs II. Otto Witt
penn and other club workers in New
York, Long Island ana New Jersey.
The sun., 1919-10-19

and wear sagging skirts and down at
tie heel shoes.
Fortunately, a lot of working girls
who compete with men in the business
world have learned the value of physi-
cal fitness and have also learned to
club together as men DO to get the
things they cannot have by themselves.
Now take this clubhouse as an ex-
ample There are 800 of us and all
day long we're busy at different sorts
of occupations. One girl is a milliner,
another a fashion artist, another n
stenographer. But when evening
comes We do as the men do-'go to
the club.
There are so many of us interested
in swimming that we were able to club
together and get the exclusive use of
one OF the municipal baths every
Monday night. We have teacher
for girls who cannot swim, and those
OF us who can do stunts play water
polo and otherwise enjoy our private
swimming pool Basketball. volley
ball, roller skating. gymnastic stunts
we all of us can have just as much
Of them as We wish.
'"Then in the summer the New York
League of Women Workers. with
which tho United Club is affiliated.
has tIo big summer camp up AT
Matasac, near Peckskill, and there of
course we live the best sort of out
The sun., 1919-10-19
RELIABLE METHOD OF HAIR CARE

Hair is by far the most conspicu-
GUS thing about us and is probably the
most easily damaged by bad or careless
treatment. If We are very careful in
hair washing. we will have virtually no
hair troubles. An especially fine sham
poo for this weather, one that brings
out all the natural beauty of the hair,
that dissolves and entirely removes all
dandruff, excess oil and dirt, can easily
be used at trifling expense by simply
dissolying a teaspoonful of canthrox
(which you can get at any druggists,
in a cup of hot water. This makes
full cup of shampoo liquid, enough so
it is easy to apply it TO all the hair
instead of just the top OF the head.
This chemically dissolves all impurities
and creates a soothing, cooling lather.
Rirsing leaves the scalp spotlessly clean,
soft and plant, while the hair takes on
the glossy richness Of natural color, also
a fluffiness which makes it seem much
heavier than it is. After canthrox
shampoo, arranging the hair is a
pleasure. ADJ. A
The sun., 1919-10-19

an embroidered or braided band and
occasionally set on a portion of the
skirt or bodice in a pattern.
y A coral chiffon frock has on It's
pointed skirt draperies a pattern of
little coral tassels, green and pale
yellow, fastened heads down, a posi-
ton which no self-respecting tassel
should be required to assume.
Notes of the Autumn Modes.
Plating of all widths is one OF the
markedly new notes OF the autumn
mode. Accordion and cartridge plaits
with knife plating are all used and
velvet and serge are plated with as
much enthusiasm as silk.
Narrow silken plated frills match
ing in color are used to trim duvetyn
or serge frocks either in long lines or
else crosswise in some manner which
enlarges the hip line.
One clever little blue serge dress
has an apron front, around which a
closely plated serge frill at least four
The sun., 1919-10-19

inches wide cascades and flares
smartly.
A brown velvet afternoon frock with
a simple short sleeved crossover
bodice has double skirt, each fiounce
Of which is accordion plated.
In the French Collections.
In the French collections, one sees
an occasional model which possesses
a tunic bordered with a rather wide
band Of fox but on the whole the
furs used for trimming either duve-
tyn or satin frocks are the short
haired furs such as Persian lamb
squirrel or kolinsly and these in mar
row bands are used for edgings or are
set on the fabrics in many lines, close
together. Often. hanging tabs Of the
fabric at the neck or girdle terminate
in small fur balls.
Narrow bands Of brightly striped
silk are used to relieve the neck and
sleeves Of a sober frock and we find
again in one of the best French models
the pleasing fashion of finishing a
navy bfSe serge frock with a sash of
Roman striped ribbon.
Ribbons should have a whole chap
ter devoted to their beauty and their
many uses which range from nose
gays to entire frocks. But there is
only space to mention the enormously
wide and brilliantly brocaded ribbons
which can be made to go very far to-
ward the fashioning of an evening
toilette.
Evening Gown TrimminRs.
When one enters the realm of
fabrics and trimmings which are only
suitable for evening gowns the variety
Is so bewildering that 1t is hard to
know where to begin and quite i'm
possible to know when to stop.
Perhaps 1t is as well to only touch
In passing On the sequined and beaded
landings, the tewelled passementeries
and girdles, the exquisite laces threaded
with gold and silver and all the other
luxurious trimmings and dwell with
most weight upon the charming new
tricks which evening frocks take upon
themselves in these days.
Skirts are puffed over reeds on the
hips to produce the Infanta silhouette,
are scalloped, killed or finely ruffied.
The fashion of cutting the fabric
into deep scallops or vandykes and
mounting these In gathers or fine
plaits on n narrow skirt is q new and
pretty one. They are intended to rep
resent flower petals and hand made
flowers Of silk are an all but indis-
pensable adjunct to the modish even
ing frock.
Roses OF the material of the frock
are as often seen as those of the
natural color of the flower. The frock
of the sketch in green taffeta has its
three TERED skirt, bordered with green
taffeta roses.
Louis XVI. is sponsor for another
frock. whose widely hooped hips are
outlined by a gaily colored garland OF
quaint silken flowers and leaves. Deli
cate rose or violet chiffon dresses are
bordered and sprinkled by fragile
crepe roses or violets. Narrow silver
or gold ribbons play an important part
as shoulder straps for evening frocks.
The sun., 1919-10-19

season blossomed in such picturesque
beauty. the trimmings are brilliant
and luxurious to a degree which for
tunately always, or nearly always.
escapes the garish, and strongly sug-
gests eighteenth century exquisite
ness.
AS has been said, embroidery is still
very favorably considered by the
American designer This may be be-
cause he finds his clientele loath to
part with the simple straight line
frock, on which embroidery is at its
best. Embroidery, In fact, might more
justly be called a decoration than a
trimming. because It is imposed on
the fiat surface of the fabric and does
not alter the outline Of the garment
in the least
NeedIeworls in Striking Designs.
Needlework, in striking but uncom-
plicated designs, is used In narrow
traceries for picking out the salient
features of q model and still covers
largo portions or the whole surface OF
a garment, either in a continuous pat
tern or In large whorls scattered here
and there.
The patterns are effective, but are
produced by the least intricate stitches
known to the needle woman, such as
single stitch. over and over stitch,
COUGHING, buttonholing and French
knots.
Embroidery floss, kool yarns. che
mile and gold and silver threads are
used to work out the patterns and, of
course. beads, which. however, are
used with admirable restraint when
they are combined with the various
threads.
An exceedingly handsome trimming
Is displayed on a brown velvet gown
of utmost severity except for the long
straight tunic OF brown Georgette,
which Is hemmed and completely COW
cred by bold cut out design In the
The sun., 1919-10-19

NE- iS a HloueSl new YORK
stenographer. Evelyn Mueller
by name, who. in spite of her
business career. has kept herself in
such At condition that doctors and
physical. culture experts declare her
physically perfect" She Is a member
OF the United Club, 243 East Thirty
fourth street, one OF the largest club
houses maintained by the New York
League Of Women Workers, and it was
here that she told how she developed
her great physical strength. She had
just finished a wrestling bout with
two of her sister club members and
was obligingly holding out one arm to
serve as a turning pole for one who
wanted to "skin the cat"
"It isn't hard for girls to keep them
selves physically fit nowadays" she
said while resting between acrobatic
stunts. There are plenty Of recrea-
tional facilities at hand, and II is the
duty of every working woman to take
advantage of them. I feel that It is
just as important to keep my body
strong and my muscles trained as il
is TO keep my mind informed-it is
Just human efficiency. and the girl
who lets her shoulders hump and her
muscles sag. who drags about YEARLY
and is always tired out. is a Stacker.
She belongs in a class with girls who
go about in curl papers all morning.
The sun., 1919-10-19
French Learn to Can

will teach the French people. Among
those who attended this first course of
instruction in home canning were four
directors of agricultural colleges, two
chiefs. one inspector general from the
Ministry of Agriculture, twenty-one
professors from different agricultural
colleges, four wounded French officers.
the wives OF some of the professors,
one directrice and two teachers OF
higher schools-about 100 in all. The
series consisted of demonstrations in
the canning of fruit, vegetables. meat
asld fish.
Between the two courses a course
in canning has been given 10 girls from
the devastated areas The second Sc
ries. for teachers Of movable schools.
began the second week In August
Other countries. following the exam.
pie of France, are asking for Ameri-
can demonstrators who can teach
American methods ~ home canning.
The sun., 1919-10-19
RADIUM AND GEMS.

I I is possible to change the color Of
precious and semi-precious stones
by exposing them to the action
of radlum.
A Frenchman who has devoted him.
self to this study has obtained re-
markable results. He bought sap
l'hires of different kinds and put them
in box with a small quantity Of
radium. At the end of a month The
transformations were as follows:
white sapphires had become yellow;
nlue, green. violet. blue: wine-Colored
stones. red; dark blue, violet.
The sun., 1919-10-19

brown velvet. The velvet figures are
applied to the transparent fabric and
edged with a heavy rope OF brown silk
floss set on by means OF a COUGHING
stitch.
Binding Is a particularly intriguing
trimming which gives a taut, work.
manlike finish to the tailored frock.
Duvetyn frocks are especially pretty
bound with narrow grosgrain ribbon
matching in color.
One such frock has two inch straps
of the wool running over each shoul-
der, confined at the belt and swinging
loose from belt to hem. which are lined
with a picot edged ribbon of lighter
shade. The tiny points of the ribbon
edging extend beyond the line of the
duvetyn strap.
Satin or tricolette frocks are bound
with duvetyn, usually OF the same
color. and serge frocks are bound with
black braid or glazed leather braid is
used In interesting ways on frocks
which are not tailored as well as on
The sun., 1919-10-19

r RANCE-the land from which
r our own restaurateurs steal
so much of their lingo-.is
deeply interested in American meth
DDS Of home canning.
Recently four home demonstration
workers were lent to France by the
United States Department of Agricul-
ture. Their duties were to give dem.
onstrations In the methods of home
canning which have proved popular
in this country during the past years.
Their work In France has been at
tended with marked success. The first
series OF demonstrations was COM
pleted early in August and the second
was started.
In the first series. as planned by the
Minister OF Agriculture and carried
out by the Americans. the task was 70
teach agricultural leaders. who in turn
The sun., 1919-10-19

those together with the suits. which
are.
Black braid, rather wide. is the trim
ming which distinguishes a severe
black frock in which the upper por-
ton to the hip line is Of velvet, while
the skirt is Of heavy crepe satin. The
braid is crossed and recrossed In dia-
mond shape on the front and back Of
the skirt. the ends terminating In loops
which droop at the side.
TasseIs and Rosettes.
A blue serge frock has bands OF
fancy black braid, crossing the front
horizontally and caught at intervals
by tiny tAssels. On another frock of
black velvet there are many Pierrot
rosettes Of narrow black braid.
The beauty and grace Of Jetted
fringe and fringes Of other beads make
for their continuance in favor though
other long fringes have definitely
passed the meridian OF popularity.
A quite new note, fringed ribbon
and fringed silk is not reserved for
its obvious use as trimming on s!lken
evening gowns and wraps. but is met
with in strange company.
For instance, there is an attractive
little frock of blue duvetyn with a
slightly fitted bodice cut In the Span
ish manner, which rounds back and
front below the waist line, and a
straight narrow skirt
To give the modish width about the
hips of this frock, series Of crisp
taffeta fiounces have been placed one
above the other. extending from the
bodice line to the knee.
Each fiounce is fringed at the edge
and line of bright brocaded flowers
runs through its centre.
Little tassels Of silk, Of soft tubu-
lar silk cord, Of chenille and Of beads
have a by no means inconsiderable
place in the -.season's trimmings
They are sometimes scattered over
large surfaces, often used to terminate
The sun., 1919-10-19
ME Suffolk County Home
Bureau. which under the di-
rortinn of H. .n.OniIo.A "a A..


rection of the president of the
board Of directors. Mrs. Edith Loring
Fullerton, gave so much comfort to
the sick wards Of returned soldiers at
Camp Upton. reports the story OF
the wounded soldiers work of en-
broidery. They had seen some ex-
amples of this work, the handiwork of
Private William Iuroodos, Company
l, l4Sth Infantry, wrought in an Eng
lish hospital. When the soldiers were
furnished with patterns and woods
and silks they were happy to en-
broider and found it dulled their
physical pain.
The soldiers were of Company NJ,
1o5th Infantry; Company II, 325th
Infantry; Company l., 105th Infantry:
3Obth Field Artillery: 234th Casual
Company; Company X, 3O7th Infan-
try; Company b, 311th Machine Gun
Battalion; 331st Aero Squadron; For
tieth Coast Artillery; Thirteenth
Field Artillery Band, and indeed OF
almost all branches. They started
with simple pieces of work, but
rapidly progressed to elaborate and
intricate designs. They did the work
in a manner to call out the admira-
ton OF experienced women embroid-
erers. An exhibit of their work was
recently shown at the Suffolk County
Fair.
1t was found that the soldiers had
lived so long amid colors OF low visi-
bility and hospital" white. that they
were color hungry and the bright tints
of the silks they used had a wonder
ful psychological effect on them. In
the joy Of seeing the black design
change into flowers. birds and fishes
The sun., 1919-10-19
AUTUMN STYLES ARE RICH IN SUGGESTIONS FOR TRN1NAN
ntro Still Standby of American Makers
Are Much in Observation-Disclosures Used Striking Designs

frocks shall be confined to bindings
braid and bands Of fur though the
French makers have a penchant for
trimmings Of buttons which is shared
In only to a limited extent by the
Americans.
Plaitings Of all sorts are new and
very much in evidence, whether used
as trimmings in the shape of narrow
frills, or as n feature Of the frock
itself. Shirrng and cording in groups.
narrow belts and girdles, double and
cut wool fringe. ribbon and fringed
silk all do their part toward lending
an unwonted variety to trimmings.
For evening frocks, which have this
The sun., 1919-10-19

r>HE question of trimmings is
always an interesting one, and
l. the autumn models are not
lacking in valuable suggestions,
though the French and American de-
signers are not always in accord on
this point as is the case on a number
Of others.
While embroidery is still one of
the chief standbys of the American
maker 1t appears to be distinctly on
the wane with the French. Both are
agreed that trimmings for daytime
The sun., 1919-10-19
Work Helps Wounded Soldiers

Of high visibility many a soldier for
got his pain. The light exercise also
helped many wrist, elbow and
strained shoulder to timber up.
All the work when finished belonged
The sun., 1919-10-19

to the soldiers, who made presents OF
the pieces to their friends who were
very proud TO get them and now
treasure these embroidered pieces
among their most valuable souvenirs.
The sun., 1919-10-19
How Beaded Bags Differ

looped fringe in shaded turquoise
beads, set on in circular form.
A short, broad little bag has the
lower half covered with the aame
fringe in brown and tan beads. the
upper half OF brown silk and the
mounting Of tortoise shell.
There are a few new and desirable
black velvet bags. one of which has a
sort OF mantle cut in deep points,
which are embroidered and tipped with
steel. Another, wide and gathered on
the frame. has a band Of black MORE
through the centre. A third has an
exquisite carved ivory mounting.
OF course there are the usual bags
made of handsome brocaded silks and
embossed velvets, which are too IA
miliar to need more than a passing
word, but there Is an interesting new
bag in brocaded duveteen. which is
sure to receive favorable consideration.
There are a great number OF choice
and lovely purses and card and
cigarette cases, done in hand woven
brocades which will be coveted by any
woman of taste. II her pocket book
doesn't happen to fit taste so excel
lent, so much the worse.
One envelope purse OF this kind is
shown In the sketch, beautiful bro
cade being set off by framing OF navy
blue suede. Others are finished by
means OF a tiny metal edging.
Practical Handbags.
Among the practical leather hand
bags shown there is absolutely nothing
ing new, but one exclusive shop
shows a large. square purse Of black
patent leather which is decorated by
a border of white kid fringe, set fiat
on the purse above the edge.
There Is also sensible bag which
combines leather and velvet and there
are a number Of bun leather bags en-
Sroidered In Oriental colors.
Very much Of q novelty Is the bag
whose surface is covered entirely with
narrow taupe ribbon set on edge in a
close serpentine pattern. On this
background is sketched. In colored rib
bon, a curious Chinese design which
includes bits OF real coral and jade
in its working out.
Fascinating party bags have been
provided which are simply little silk
bags on draw strings OF ribbon. with
4 cap shaped bottom and border Of
fiowers yiolets. roses or forget-me-
nots are, Of course mounted on silk
of the corresponding colcr.
The sun., 1919-10-19
THERE is a vast difference b,

DTHERE is a vast difference be-
tween the beaded bag of COM
merce and the beaded bag Of
quality. The former is apt to be a
thins to set an artists teeth on edge
while the latter is often a veritable
object Of art.
This has always been true, but per-
maps never so noticeable as now, when
beaded bags OF the highest quality
emoody all the exquisite charm of the
oest eighteenth century handiwork.
Futurisuc decorations have been
Consigned TO that limbo which has
Deen yawning for them and which
they Will unquestionably grace. The
paterns employed are almost with
out exception Of the slightly quaint
and conventional order seen in cigh-
teenth century tapestry work. They
are carried out in delicate and re-
strained colors.
Landscapes ON Bags.
conventional wreaths of flowers in
soit, faded tones and bits OF quaint,
gay landscape are imposed upon
backgrounds in delicate yellows and
grays.
The old time reticule is initiated
with fidelity in the round shape, the
Ger.
amounted bead bags of remarkable
peauty are generously large and long
sHu perfectly straight across the bot
om' They are drawn close at the top
y! means or a ribbon or a beaded cord.
on groundwork of black or steel
SeauS Is imposed an old fashioned
eolors
The bag which combines crochet
slh bead work is much In evidence.
%eucularly ~ in the long slim gourd-
HAe shape which can be hung over the
"iist or dangled from a ring. These
are shown with the upper part OF the
erocheted silk and the lower part
e"ered with. a sort OF beaded fringe,
"hch consists OF loops of tiny beads
bag. >'S' '"e
Bags Covered with Fringe.
Many bags. usually OF the drawn
,sriety' are covered with this looped
mhse. One delectable bag Of this type,
Shlch looks like a bubble, is entirely
! crystal beads. Another. fiat. round
wa mounted1n gold. q composed Of
The sun., 1919-10-19

door life, with swimming, games, hikes
and boating in the daytime and camp
fires and early taps at night. Down
on Staten Island we have week end
camp, so that in addition to the two
weeks we can take at Matasac we
often get a taste of camp life over
Sundays.
No Excuse for FIabbiness.
ANY girl in New York who doesn't
keep herself up to the mark is just
lazy. Not knowing about the various
facilities for fun and exercise is only
an excuse. Anybody can find out We
United Club girls swim at one place.
play basketball at another and roller
skate at a third. If girls hang to-
gether they can have all the luxuries
of n first class mems club-that is, all
the things we hear OF men doing.
"I don't believe much in setting up
exercises. They are good for some
corrective reasons, but on the whole
are mechanical and joyless. 1t is
much better to take your exercise hav-
ing fun, like playing basketball, or
football, or hockey, or swimming. OF
skating. Competitive stunts are al
ways fun, too-running races Or
jumping or rw,lging on the rings, and
the Old fashioned games beloved of
childhood-run, sheep. run, red rover.
last couple out, snap the whip-are
The sun., 1919-10-19
Bags Covered with Fringe.

many bags, usually OF the drawn
,,ety' are covered with this looped
nsnse' a,Hs' One delectable bag OF this type,
=, ~"lch looks like a bubble. is entirely
y crystal beads. Another. fiat. round
wa mounted1n gold. 70 composed Of