davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
CHOICE OF FROCKS
Wide Variety From Which MiIady
May Make Selection.
Most Interesting Garments Are Thoss
Suggesting Tanaora sIIheustts
Of PreWar Days.

The several new silhouettes which
were predicted for spring are making
their appearances, in the shops. The
many Interpretations given them al
low one q wide choice In the selec-
ton Of frocks. suits and wraps. Per
haps the most interesting frocks are
those which suggest the Tanagra sill
houette Of prewar days. says Vogue.
The fiat back and the concentrating
OF the fullness Of the skirt at the front
give a very pleasing line when worked
out In the correct materials and col
orS
In q tricolette frock the pliability
Of the fabric Is brought out to the
best advantage In this manner. The
skirt falls in soft folds from under
the bib-like front Of the blouse and Is
cut so that 1t narrows away at the
feet under the back panel. This frock
Is charming. either In q new shade Of
brown, called maduro. a shade which
Is very dark although a little lighter
than tete de negre, or In a dull light
gray, called walnut, or In black. The
embroidery on the blouse and on the
back Of the skirt is done In self color
heavy silk in a simple stitch. The
neck-like Is rounded In front and is
finished with a fat collar made Of q
straight fold Of the material.
The same effect of fairness at the
back is gained In a blue serge frock
by continuing the center breadth Of
the blouse into a separate panel which
turns under the hem of the skirt. The
rest of the blouse Is cut on the lines
OF a jacket opening over a satin vest.
Many Of the new topcoats Of this
season show the tendency to the mar
rowing silhouette that one sees In
frocks. Beige tricotine is used for q
three-Quarters length coat which Is
lined with blue and tan pussy-willow
silk. The coat hangs quite smoothly
from q small yoke over the shoulders
TO the wide band which finishes 1t by
buttoning across the front The bone
buttons are Of beige color.
The softly tailored lines Of q light
tan PoIret twill suit suggest the Rms
sian blouse. The peplum Of the jacket
Is plated In three sections with
straight sidepieces, which have three
small slot pockets. The collar rolls
back In a most becoming fashion to
the waistlIne. The belt is Of dull soft
leather in narrow stripes Of beige and
red. This suit also comes In navy
blue with q blue and red belt.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
SUMMER BRINGS LARGER HATS
Brighter Sunshine Causes Demand for
Broader 6rims 70 Protect Face
and Eyes.

With the approach Of late spring
and early summer weather. the big hat
Is coming actively into its own The
first spring days demand that the
headgear selected shall be small and
rather close reefed to Withstand wind
and weather, and q hat Of this type
Is very smart with narrow straight
line tailored suit or frock. But big
hats are almost uniformly becoming,
and when late spring and summer
suns begin to shine, a spreading hat
brim b a great protection to the eyes
and complexion
When trimming Il used on the spring
or summer chapeau, flowers usually
are first choice. All kinds Of garden
flowers are lined up In the millinery
field this season. Hollyhocks. pop
pies, bleeding hearts, violets, and
roses. Of course. and lilies. including
those Of the pond and Gala family.
are approved Ribbon flowers are
fashionable, also. some Of the smart.
est hats showing clusters Of very real
looking asters. sunhowers. ETC., made
Of narrow ribbon In carefully selected
colors.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
PARIS GOWNS GROW BUNcHY
Sash 10 m important Adjunct TO Some
oarments-wriss Length Gloves
Again In Evidence.

The imported gowns from that dear
Paris are not pretty as to line and de-
sign-not even the most enthusiastic
admirer Of French creations can en-
thuse over the very short skirts and
sleeves and the rather bunchy look
most Of them seem to have-but they
are decidedly interesting and, more
than that, even they are different from
anything we see hereabout, observes
writer In New York Sun.
Now, for instnnce, comes a white
silk jersey evening gown. and from
Doucet. II Is a charming thing. with
long lines so very graceful that 1t Is
distinctly novel
The sash Is an important thing on
every gown, as 1t appears In many I'M
usual and interesting arrangements,
sometimes placed high up under the
arms and crossed In the front and
again In the back, where 1t loops be-
tween the shoulder blades and then
falls the length Of the entire frock.
In this instance the sash Is not more
than four inches wide and appears on
a Lige satin frock made with the sim
plicity of q little girls school dress,
falling long and straight from the
shoulders. with only the little crossed
sashes at the bust and In the back to
hold In the fullness. The sleeves are
very short, Just the length we would
call awkward. as they stop far short
Of the elbow.
By curious freak Of fancy It seems
that Partisan women wear the short,
wrist-length glove. Just as people used
to do before the days Of 1880. which
sets rs wondering II we shall see the
old-fashioned lace frills appearing
again at the tops OF gloves or shall the
thin meshed mitts return1
At any rate. II French frock among
the new arrivals shows sleeves NJ all
II is this curious half-length-of course
II remains to be seen whether our max
ers will adopt these funny sleeves.
Americans have as much cleverness In
adapting these fashions as the French
display In creating them. and for this
reason the French things always look
well on our women
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
DRESS SHIELDS NOT NOTION
An Accessory That 10 Entirely Indis-
pensabIe to the Neat and
Careful Dresser.

II doesn't make any difference how
fashionably one Is gowned nor how
expensive are ones clothes II there Is
the slightest suggestion Of careless
ness In the care OF the clothes.
Dust In the folds or pleatings will
ruin the appearance Of the most ultra
smart frock.
Stains Of any character-a slight
splashing on the street crossing. the
trace Of powder at the neck Of the
gown. the unsightly evidence Of per
spiration-are all things that are I'M
necessary IL one uses the ordinary
precautions In obyiating them.
This year we find the extremes In
sleeves. Paris has abbreviated
sleeves for every gown apparently that
N 30 be worn In the house, but among
the multitudInous models for street
and all the occasions taking one out
of the home we find the long close
sleeves featured very extensively. With
such frocks or suits or blouses there
IN only one sure road to constant
freshness and stainless beauty, and
that Is By way Of the well selected,
weIl-adjusted dress shield
II has q very nice signihcanee-the
shield: It means to ward Oh, to de-
fend. to protect.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
FRINGE FOR THE BED SPREAD
Decoration That 10 Pleasing and A.
traetive May Easily Be Made BY
Nlmble Flnaera

Some Of the loveliest Of the new
spreads for the bed are of unbleached
muslin with inserts Of handmade lace
or q touch Of hand embroidery In
large bold patterns, knots, cross stitch
and the like. One may finish on these
spreads with a wide hem, a blanket
stitched or buttonholed edge and best
Of all with a handmade, crocheted
fringe. Now this may sound ambf-
tious, the making Of enough fringe to
go around the whole spread except
the top. Of course, and the bottom II
It Is to be tucked into q wooden foot.
board, but the fringe Is simple. Start
with a fayorite crocheted edge that
leaves an irregular edge Of points
scallops or open squares. After your
whole edge Is crocheted, all you have
to do Is to tie into every point, or into
three or five points In a group az
many strands Of thread according to
the size and thickness of tassel you
want. II there Is filet lace In your
spread, you will want a f1let heading
for your fringe. II the embroidery
Is dainty, make your heading q series
Of lighter pIcoted interviewer loops
You can find patterns and directions
for such a heading in any crochet
book, and all you will have to do Is
to knot your strands Of fringe into the
most prominent loops or points.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
Trend Runs to Frocks IN Which
Harshness Has Given Way to
Charm and Dignity.
NEW TAFFETE ARE IMPROVED
w,tsrlaI Does Not split and Crack and
4, Regarded q Better investment
Than u Was Some Sea-
sons Ago.

To complete ones spring wardrobe
n least one taffeta frock must be In.
eluled. This may be one. Of the new
and very lovely blGck gowns Of this
rrisp silk or q stiff and rather simple
and quaint evening frock, but to be alb
solutely correct, declares a fashion
writer at least one tafteta frock must
he included In the seasons outfit.
None Of the silk gowns for years past
has had Just the charm and dignity
that the black taffetas Of this spring
have achieved. Indeed, the very six
itself has acquired new suppleness
and a softness which gives delightful
drapery effects. Again, these newer
tatetas do not split and crack as once
they did and are therefore a much bet
ter investment than this sort Of silk
vas some seasons ago.
RuffIes In Vogue.
Since rufles are so much In vogue
II is interesting to note that one of
the most advanced models developed
in black taffeta silk shows q very long
and narrow skirt with a slightly hob
bled effect carried out by placing three
rufles one above the other with the
hens Of the little frills turned up to
the waist instead Of In the usual man.
ner Of placing ruffles turned down to-
ward the hem Of the skirt. This Is one
Of the new fancies Of the spring-thIs
Of the upside down rufi1e-and 1t gives
q distinctive look 10 all frocks and
proves them Of the latest model.
On the particular black dress men,
toned, the very long front panel is I'M
broken from the square neck quite to
the bottom Of the skirt, except by the
rufies, and untrimmed except for q
straight row Of black silk buttons
placed straight down one side. The
back has slightly draped hustle effect
and a sash. and the sleeves are long
and tight.
Just why black should be preferred
In this sort of silk frock II Is difficult
to say, as for a long time black taffeta
silk was left for the middle aged and
for mourning gowns. Certain It u
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
- Mandarin coataL

Short mandarin coats that may be
worn over mIlady's pajamas are made
Of black satin and the odds and ends
Of wooi from the knitting bag. Or one
might use rope silk In the pastel tints
for decoration These delightful 1T
tie coats are very simple to cut with
sleeves and body In one OF course
the neck 10 coIlariess In true Chinese
styie, and sometimes the embroidered
trimming forms q mad riot Of coloring
that a both bizarre and artistic Bril-
liant red peoples and nasturtfums are
interesting and one chooses this type
Of flowers rather than the dainty rose
or sweet pea for the oriental louneing
taeksk es.'gs = 1872
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
IDEAS IN BLOUSES
American Designers Reluctant 10 -.
espt Paris Recommendation for
AbbrsvIatsd Arm Covering.

Unquestionably this II Q season Of
novel ideas In blouses. The ordinary.
old-time suit blouse wins barely q
glance. OF course. suit blouses must
be had. because suits are being sold
In much greater numbers than suit de-
partment records have been able to
show for years. The suit blouse with
round waist length back and sides and
long apron panel front r. one favorite.
Another Of the new blouse novelties
Is the cossack. which Is somewhat on
the order Of the old-fashloned basque.
1t Is not n tightly fitted affair, but Is
drawn softly across the figure In front
and at the sides and tied In the back.
Both plain and printed georgettes
are used for the apron models and
for warm weather wear sheer cotton
wolfe or fine handkerchief linen may
be used In the development Of q
blouse either Of the cossack or apron
type. -
There is no ironclad ruling In regard
to blouse length. The waist length
model Is shown, like the one on the
cossack lines, and blouses appear with
hip length peplums. and long knee
length models. called costume blouses,
continue to be approved.
Short sleeves, definitely approved BY
French style designers this season, ap-
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
THE CORRECT WAY TO SLEEP
seft Beds Mako Flabhy skin. and
Large Pillows lnIure Health
and Appearances.

No matter how comfortable q soft
bed and large. soft pillows may be.
they are not healthful, and women
especially would do well to avoid
them, for they assist materially In In
juring their physical appearances.
states q writer In the Philadelphia
Inquirer. When the body sinks down
In O soft bed q considerable portion
Of the skin Is robbed Of Its proper
ventilation and the circulation Is In
terfered with. II also helps to make
the muscles habby.
A hard bed will make the flesh
firmer, and the form must, therefore,
appear somewhat better as q result
The large pillows are not good to sleep
on because the head Is too high when
II rests on them, and this prevents
that deep. regular breathing which
gives good lungs and In consequence
q better appearance to the bust and
shoulders.
One ought always to sleep on the
left side, and preferably with the arms
at the back. This may be little awk-
ward at first, but as soon as one be-
comes accustomed to IL she will find
II not only the most restful and easy,
but the position In which sleep Is more
easily induced. The pillow ought to,
Of course, be small and the bed hard,
or at least firm. The body Is then In
the correct position for sleeping and
for helping the physical appearance
Of the person while at rest.
The arms at the back throw the
chest forward. make the shoulders
broader and the back straighter. so
that material assistance toward q
good carriage Is thus obtained. When
one lies on the back, even though the
pillow Is small. II has a tendency to
crook the shoulders, and many cases
Of stopped shoulders have probably
originated In that way.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17

out one, % the newest ideas for sum
mer frocks. as many siIken and geore.
cite dresses reveal those fine, soft and
very short vestees, square across neck
and bust.
Eyelet embroidery II extensively
used In some Of these new siIken
frocks. appearing especially wen placed
On long apron drapery Of q smart I'm
ported black tafbeta embroidery.
Apron Drapery staya
The apron drapery win not leave
us-lt seems to have come to stay
and still hangs on frocks with which,
seemingly, II has no relation what
ever. However. on this particular black
frock the whole apron part Of eye
let embroidery, done In black SILK
threads. really makes the dress, fall
ing with q slight fuiness In the front
over q tight, black petticoat under
meath. In the back the velvet en-
broidery appears only on O part Of the
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
Millinery Novelties

The current season In the millinery
felc Is more than ordinarily productive
of novelties. Among the new things Of
fered are hats Of wood fiber straw.
This straw Is about two inches wide
and can be braided or arranged In
loops. The same material II seen
giazed, and In this form Ia called
cblcklet straw. Among the newest
trimmings are large. nat flowers made
Of dotted chiffon In all the pastel
shades. They are said 10 be especially
adaptable for use on dress hats.
Grapes, raisins and little rcsebuds
made Of s0ft tafeta are also being
used for decorationA - are flowers
made Of straight ostrich hue& In col
on, jade green seems 10 b The new
~ Tat has f0gnd favor.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17

pear to excellent advantage In many
Of the summer blouses-
American style designers have not so
far generally accepted the Paris rec
Ommendatlon concerning short sleeves
in silk and wool fabric frocks for
street wear, but the summer blouse
and sheer summer frocks find the style
very desirable.
The woman who elects to wear short
sleeves In the daytime should have
pretty arms. Unfortunately not all
women are so blessed and for that rea.
son II is not probable that the fancy
for short sleeves win be 30 generally
accepted as to make the style become
common"
The broad ax., 1919-05-17

An attractive Afternoon gown Of taffeta
with figures and vestss % rose
shades a Winsome gown for vofn.
en- who are stylish and particular.
mat nothing Is more ND to date at this
ume, however, than these severe SILK
eo gowns. The makers understood
Perfectly the softening Of an Of the
harshness taffeta has and indeed since
me newer and softer weayes have been
exploited this stiffness and shlniness Il
thing Of the past.
One % the Smartest Froeks
One Of the really smart black frocks
mas nothing to distinguish IL especially
Is to trimming or ornamentation, ex-
eept In the graceful lines On which &c
mas been cut, and 30 beautifully drap-
q Is the skirt and 20 cieveriy arranged
ne bodice and accompanying sash of
suk that this particular frOck seems
ennrely different from others. Not q
'esnge Of color relieves the black folds
eno only q short chemisetfe q the In
81 and softest cream batiste breaks
"e entire lengths Of black
The placing Of this short little yes-
e' square and low In the neck and
Opping Just below the h1st. brings
The broad ax., 1919-05-17

Exquisite evening gown. DistinetlveIy
French, long train and gown Of en-
broidersd flowers, and beads On
black silk; gold mohair belt for vest.
skirt, which Is drawn In with very
little fulness. A sash finishes the
waist, Is tied In q rather large boy
and falls nearly to the bottom Of the
skirt
As to the bodice, IL also reveals the
little short square chemisette of fine
net like the one mentioned. As two
wide reyers finish the front Of the
bodice In q sort Of surplice effect, the
upper part Of this waist resembles a
smart little Elton jacket The sleeves
are three-Quarters long and are finish
ed with q wide, folded-back cum.
One Of the very successful combi-
nations for this style Of dress Is taf-
feta and georgette, happily arranged
IN one instance with q long tunic OF
blue georgette over an underneath
skirt Of blue taffeta. The bottom Of
the tunic Is handsomely ornamented
with an application of taffeta in small
scrolls and pieces cleverly embrold-
cred In place with heavy silken threads.
A repetition Of the applique appears
on the blouse, which overhangs the tunic
and belt slightly, and the long taffeta
sash In the back makes q good finish
for the waist. This also shows but
tons Of silk In the front Of the bodice
and a short vestee of fine white lace
finishes the upper part Of the front.
The sleeves are the curious short bebe
sleeves 30 much affected In the French
importations.
Evening Froeb<s.
Taffeta frocks are by no means con-
fined to Just afternoon gowns, as this
silk Is being extensively used for SIM
pie evening frocks and really offers
a welcome change fro the heavier
brocades and metal tissues, the beaded
and spangIed splendid robes Of which
we shall doubtless grow tired in spite
Of their great beauty and elegance
A rose pink silken frock of the placid
silk has a little bertha of very rich
lace outlining the rather low decol-
letage and Is without sleeves. The
skirt Is very long and very narrow and
only q slightly draped effect just In the
very front Of the long skirt breaks
the otherwise perfectly plain lines.
The bands Of silken loops, which are
being so much used. trim a dark blue
evening gown and puffs Of the silk
with corded edges trim another, though
In this instance a very smart afternoon
gown
While one finds an occasional COM
bination Of georgette and taffeta and
now and then some lace or satin used
In q combination with this sitter silk.
for the most part the best models and
those most frequently seen are un-
trimmed and rely principally on the
drapery and clever lines to achieve
the distinction most women want for
their frocks. The eordings and puffs
are not entirely new. as we used them
several seasons back. but that Is long
enough ago TO give the idea OF an en-
tirely new style when We see them
nov.
The broad ax., 1919-05-17
SMART SUGGESTIONS
TAILOR collars are smart.

Sailor collars are smart
Suits have very narrow belts
Coats are very ample In the back.
Afternoon dresses are not very long.
The tablier blouse b being made In
wash materials.
The frflled lingerie blouse ID gaining
In popularity.
Skirts for aftsrnon wear promise 10
Be nore fun
A revival Of the real lace collar b
strongly EugEegte4
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-05-30
Dickens Love Of Humanity.

Dickens love for humanity, his de-
sire to right wrong and relieve suffer
Ing, were some of the reasons given
by Sheriff Lyell, talented member OF
the Scottish bar, speaking before the
Glasgow Dickens society, for the admi-
ration that writer had won. "The Bar
rlsters of Dickens was the speakers
subject. He referred to Mr.. Voles,
Eugene Raeburn, Tommy Traddles,
Sidney Carton, Sergeant Buzbuz and
other characters well known to Dick
ems readers.
zone must leave behind the spirit
of criticism and give oneself up to a
whole-hearted enjoyment in reading
Dickens" he said. "There might, ut
times, be exaggeration or forced SEN
tlment but there is also genius. |
don't know why he made Tommy Trad
dies a lawyer, unless 1t was to show
that we barristers are not all as black
as we are painted. Dickens was at
his best In depicting deep and genuine
pathos, free from sentlmentallsm."
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-05-30

272.4S acres, saving and except
ing therefrom the following por-
ti0ns OF the said premises:
ALL of the southwest quarter
Of the southwest quarter of said
Section 10.
Also beginning at a point 20.36
chains north Of the southwest cor
ner of said section 10. and running
thence east 20.245 chains; thence
north 8 degrees As minutes west 35
chains; thence north 6.205 chains;
thence west 14.745 chains, thence
south 1912 chains to the place OF
beginning;
Also beginning at the northeast
corner of the southwest quarter OF
the northeast quarter Of said sec
ton 10 and running thence west
1925 chains; thence south 40; ~
chains TO the south line of said
lot three (3) of said section TO-;
thence east 6.S95 chains; thence
north 1882 chains to the north
west corner of ID. L. G. No. 48, in
said township and range; thence
east 4.30 chains, and thence north
22.40 chains to the place Of be-
ginning;
Also commencing at the south
east corner of Government Lot
No. three (3) in section ten (10),
in township thirty-eight $3.50
south of Range Two (2) west OF
the Willamette Meridian, and
running thence west 6.S95 chains
for a true point Of beginning, and
from said point of beginning, run
ming thence west 246.93 feet;
thence north 1905 feet to iron pin
set in center of county road along
north fork Of Griffin Creek;
thence north Ga degrees 4S min
utes east along the center of the
County road to a point due north
Of the point of beginning; thence
south to said true point of begin
ming, containing 5 acres more or
less.
Dated at Jacksonville, Oregon,
May 18th, 1919.
G. p. TERRILL,
Sheriff Of Jackson County, Oregon.
By Flora Thompson, Deputy.
30-4fri
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-05-30
Famous Fleet Street.

A modern writer has called Fleet
street the "Street Of Adventure" and
the name is a good one, writes A. A.
Methley, In "a Chlld's Guide to Lon
don" for here oil the news Of the
world is gathered together, and the
strip of sky overhead Is crisscrossed
with the telegraph and telephone wires
that bring tidings of warfare .
victories, revolutions, and marvellous
inventions and discoveries.
The road certainly deserves Its pic
turesque title. but, in medieval times
when, as Froissart says, the Londoners
were the perilousest people In the
world, and the most outrageousest, the
name would have been even more APP
proprlate. Then the adventures them
selves actually took place here; ana
again and again In history we find
wild stories of tumults fought
out on the rough cobblestones OF Old
'Flete Strete."