The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1919-02-15

The most desirable theater frock
worn by French women. 1t is of
black velvet, made On straight lines,
with short sleeves, and its glory
rests in the immense, sash of blue,
gold and scarlet ribbon.
and hips, and one end turns over on
itself at the back.
Now that the war Is over and the
population is streaming into the thea
ters and the opera, and happily await
ing that first burst into green of the
chestnut trees, the high prophets in
the art of dress continue to impress
this kind of gown upon e American
buyers. They insist that it is still the
smart thing to wear in public, even if
one wears a more elaborate kind of
gown at private entertainment.
The Novelty Is the Sash.
The frock, however, i ! no longer the
untouched by color. 1t proclaims peace
by Haunting color in the shape of a
most conspicuous sash. Certain of the
grc-t houE-s in Paris make this sash
so vivid, so big, that the gown appears
to be merely a foundation upon which
it rests. The cut of the frock is the
same as during the war days, straight
in line, round at the neck, short at the
slee :.
BY the way the American buyers
think that short sleeves will really be
introduced into American life when
the spring comes. and the new models
from France with it. Heretofore, we
have rejected this fashion. We may
accept it. but none but the rich will be
able to indulge in gloves sufficient in
number to keep the short sleeves going
day and night.
Now, about the sash: it is usually
made of, brocade; sometimes it is of
magnificent Indian tissue woven in
gold and silver; and again it is of
stamped satin or velvet with colorful
pictures on it, or American Indian
designs woven on fine Chinese crepe.
One gown pays tribdte to Italy by
using a sash of Roman ribbon. The
foundation is always the same color
black. There is no attempt to deviate
from this rule. The only variant in
the costume is the drapery of the skirt
and the gorgeousness of the sash.
The sketch shows one of the most
important restaurant and theater
gowns worn in Paris while President
and Mrs. Wilson were there. 1t gave
cause for thought to all the Americans
who intended to bring home French
gowns to this country. The thin black
velvet of this gown is so supple that
it ripples along the figure like a pam
theirs hide. The sleeves, you can see
for yourself. are simply bits of bobbed
material. Inc SaSn Is OF DrOcaQeQ
ribbon in blue, gold and scarlet. 1t
is broadly arranged around the waist
New Uses of Ribbon
Undoubtedly, it will be a ribbon
year, if the French designers know
the public demand. So truly remark
able are these new specimens of Weav-
ing, that we may expect gowns. wraps
and hats made simply of ribbon
mounted on some foundation. Often
a ribbon is nearly rs wide as a piece
of dress material. and frequently its
selvage is brilliant with color. All
the processes of stamping and print
ing are used on its surface. The OIL
ors run wild. and yet, are harmonious
ly blended together until one gets a
vivid impression of the highest ar, of
weaving. Those who have seen the
new collections in Paris say there
has been nothing compare BILE to them
in our generation.
Quite natural, therefore, don't you
think, for the French dressmakers to
submerge the gown in order that the
glory of this new ornamentation be
made cOUSDicIIOIIS