The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-02

two types OF neck line, A woman
should not rebel against this verdict.
She should accept it and thus eliri-
nate trouble, She should not expert
ment with blouses that do not carry
either one of these necklines. She
must remember that no blouse is
worth its price II it hasn't the kind of
'ollar that offsets the neck line of her
oat. She must also take well into
ons!deration the difference between a
blouse which is to he worn as a part
of costume topped by fur or cloth
coat and one that is merely a shirt
waist and part OF a tailored suit
These are not all the requirements
for success in buying blouses. A
woman must have, or must acquire. a
true knowledge OF the juXtaposition of
fabrics She must know what mate
rial in a blouse goes best with the Ma
/ terial Of her suit or her separate skirt
and top coat For instance: Georgette
beaded in a bold design. does not 20
with a homespun or a cheviot suit
That is merely one example out of a
dozen or two others that could easily
be enumerated.
The truth about georgette-which is
worth repeating because the fabric
plays so dominant a role in separate
blouses this year--is that it looks far
better as part of costume than as al,
/ addition to coat suit. AS a peplum
blouse worn with a skirt of its own
color, or in harmonious contrast to il,
IL is very good; not as good as satin
or silk jersey. but commendable. 1t
may be ornamented. ii one can adopt
that type of blouse, and even trimmed
with beads. which is a debatable form
OF ornamentation on a separate gar
ment but not Impossible for certain
types of women.
Because Of the adoption of uniforms
through the war there is a strong re-
crudescence of the tailored linen shirt
waist for women, especially in horizon
blue, shrimp pink and dead white edged
with color These have tucked fronts,
long plain sleeves. regulation arm
holes. turnover cuffs with link buttons,
the Second Empire.
Women have found that rolling
collar with slight bit of starch, Worn
with a cravat, is an attractive neck
line. Only the very young woman with
a slim, smooth neck can attempt the
high turnover collar either starched or
soft Below a face that shows the
marks OF time this collar is impossible.
When the French designers made
the peplum blouse and then sat back
in watchful waiting for its success,
which took long to come. they created
something that was very worth while.
American women see the light to-day.
and they grasp with eagerness the
possibilities OF this outside tunic blouse.
1t is difficult to persuade a certain
set of women that there are other
types of blouses. Nothing could in
duce them to return to the kind that
tucks in under the skirt belt They
feel they have eliminated this awk-
ward line around the middle OF the
body and they choose all their blouses
after the tunic pattern. whether for
tailored suits or for service with a
separate skirt under a fur coat.
II Is sometimes permitted to tuck
the back of the blouse under the
skirt. provided there is front panel
that drops, apronwise, below the
waist. and an ornamental belt which
runs from each side Of 1t to the back
This is rhe most ingenious compro-
mise between the new and the old
blouses.
Fabrics are now chosen fer these
tuniclike garments that have never
been considered in the making OF
short shirtwaists Kid. for instance.
That is a material unheard Of among
the weavers as part and parcel of
women's apparel Yet tie new kid
tunie blouses, sent from France and