The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-20

, cared so little about what he had 6oY
luncheon that he very often left the
selection for the waiter to make.
Tho Elder Bennett's Steaks.
"Mr. Bennett seldom went out Of his
Office at the Herald for luncheon; he
always wanted a fine steak, and he
would always send Jimmy for 1t,
jimmy" It may be added. was
known to the rest of the world AZ
James Gordon Bennett. the son of the
founder of the Herald, and its owner
and editor upon the death of his father.
But to the Mouquins he was never
other than just Jimmy, the name
which Madame Mouquin gave him.
What is 1t you want to-day. Jun
my?" would ask Madame Mouquin IN
young Bennett came every morning
into the kitchen. She knew the an
swer. though. before he spoke.
"A steak? Yes. Here It is, the bsgt
We have. Will you sit down and wait
until it is ready? But mind you, Jim
my, no skylarking: We are busy 10
day"
The last time that Mr.. Bennett was
in New York he met Louis Mouqutn
on the first floor. Where is your
mother?" he asked. "On the floor
above, and she would love to see you"
He found her at one OF the tables.
"Ah. it's Jimmy. and how glad I'm
to see you"
And am very happy to see you
again, Mother Mouquin."
Then they sat down and talked Of
the many years that had passed since
| he had waited in the kitchen for her
| to get the steak ready, and he asked
about walters and cooks and bus boys
whom Madame Mouquin had almost
| herself forgotten.
The walters at Mouquin's are %
much a part Of the establishment that
to omit mention of them would be TO
| neglect a most important factor that
has made for Its success. There IS
Chaffard. now in charge Of the up
town cafe, who has been in the house
| of Mouquin for twenty-seven years;
| there is Etienne at the downtown res
| taurant. who has a record OF twenty
six years as MouQuin walter. A
man with only ten or fifteen YEAR,
| service to his credit Is something OF q
novice.
w IDuDOuS CtlObi dlcu Ills
| century of service some years ago the
artists whose table he had long looked
| after joined In the celebration. Elan
nigan, the sculptor. made a bust of
| Dubois just as they had all known him
best and it hangs now in the uptown
house on the wall just over the tahds
that he had 30 long and faithfully
served.
At the first news Of the attack on
France twenty Mouquin walters bur
ried to Europe TO stem the German
invasion. In all seventy-one men
went from Mouquin's into service
| Their families have all been we'll cared
FOR in their absence by the men who
remained behind, men incapacitated BY
age or disability from active service.
Every Monday a collection was taken
up in which every man from cook to
bus boy Joined. The required con-
tribution was 25 cents. but the usual
| amounts paid by each We're from 80
| cents to 81. In this way s15.442 was
raised. Fifteen OF the men have re-
turned to work: their Jobs were await
ing them. So are the jobs OF all OF
the others as soon as they appear.
lA"es.
NJ. Henri Mouquin, no doubt, ap-
preciates the unusual distinction that
Is his. that of being, as one OF his
| friends expressed it, the only restau-
| rateur living to-day whose establish
ment antedates the civil war and IL
still a real live concern" But still
more is he happy in the enjoyment OF
| life that Is yet his. Both he and Nine
Mouquin are vigorous in body and
alert In mind, with an interest, undi-
minished in keenness, in the world and
its affairs.
| Customs and ways OF life and bust
ness have changed much since NJ
Mouquin began his career in New
York. He sees more extravaganza in
living. more fanaticism and radical
ism, but at the same time he sees no
reason for loss of faith in the final out
come. lie Is an optimist. especially
as regards his country; so much an
optimist that he will not attempt to
speculate on the glory OF its future
destiny.
! lie spends as much time as possible
on his farm near the historic town OF
Williamsburg, Va, 1t is farm OF
early Colonial days and over a part OF
the tract held by the Washington
family.
! II love my Virginia farm. Why,
Because have a girl there" he said
with smile and flashing twinkle OF
light In his eyes. Yes. a girl. She Is
eighty years young. Every day she
makes me plat du jour, and she
makes 1t as good. an, better, monsieur,
than she did sixty years ago."