The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-19

brocades that are used for upholster-
Ing. A new beaded embroidery Is also
TO be noted In which tiny beads are
sewed ON In little loops In a very
close design giving II a feathery APP
pearance. The most gorgeous metal
tissues and metal brocades are used In
the evening dresses. which are always
gracefully draped and are stiIl short
and trains shown with all Of them
A marked feature OF the collection Is
the little tulle jackets trimmed In os-
,trich feathers and the handsome span
gied capes. A cape embroidered In
black spangies and Jet is one Of the
most popular models in the collection
despite the fact that its price is 1000
francs.
Evening, Dresses First
Little attention is being paid to
tailored costumes In any Of the dress
making establishments. All have made
an effort TO specialize I'm the afternoon
and evening dresses. Jenny's charm
Ing blue serge street dresses make one
forget that she Is not showing many
''tailleurs." They are the usual
straight. narrow. one-pIece froeks
loosely belted by a broad sash OF nov
city ribbon. but the little white vests
that are worn with all Of them give
them a very new look. These waist
coats with their DirectoIre collars are
decidedly a feature of the collection.
They no longer extend below the waist
line, as did those Of the last two sea-
sons. but they merely I'll in the deep
V Of the serge bodice and are not low
In the neck. II Jenny's models are /
as popular as they promise to be now
the separate neskwear win come Into
its own again. for separate collars are
shown with the serge dresses. Many
Of them are the turned down linen
collars that we wore years ago with
shirt waists. With them are worn
pretty little ribbon ties. Ribbon, In
fact. is another marked feature Of the
Practically all of the mod
els have ribbon sashes, and fringe. too.
Is featured. All Of the sashes have
fringed ends and bands of fringe are
employed in all sorts of ways.
Jenny shows her usual gorgeous
evening dresses which can easily be
as evening skirts and moth
Ing more. Even the shoulder straps |
are so transparent that they can |
be seen, but the skirts make
up for all that the bodices lack. They |
are most dazzling. In the most bril- |
liant colors, In metal brocades and |
spell victory throughout.
Doeuillet, too. is showing an impor-
liant collection, especially in evening
dresses He shows one model after
another exqulsitely draped In gold cloth
and. often combined with embroidered
tuile. Metal cloth and jet seem to be
his favOrite combination and he uses
Quantities of jet fringe, all Of which
means expense, making IL difficult for
he Americans to buy. because the duty
-uns many of them mp to the three
md four thousand franc mark. ! recall
me dress In the most gorgeous metal
issue the actual material of which
'ells for 10 francs a yard. One thinks
nothing of paying 100 francs yard
row for the most ordinary tissues.
Satin and Metal Brocade.
DOeuillet has pretty way of using
bright colored satin and meta bro
,ade bodice with a black satin skirt.
70 trimming Of any Kind IL used ex-
'ept a black jet fringe to finish the
nus of the sash. which is made Of the
'recade.
The DOeuillet skirts are not too
hort and not too narrow, but they
ave a different movement from sIl of