The sun., 1919-09-21

people began clamoring for these
museums to be opened; they oven got
insulting about it, so little did they
understand. This wac especially true
in the case of strangers, most of all
a people whom we all know who are
in tsle habit of having everything done
quickly. Alas.
Now happily 1t Is all in the past.
The Louvre is open, at least all the
statuary is on view, and the galleries
OF paintings are being opened one by
one as fast as tho rooms can be put
in order and the pictures rehung. But
the task has been something titanic
1t takes two hours to walk through
the Louvre without stopping; it covers
forty-three acres. The walls OF the
picture galleries are being given a
coat Of gray ochre. the miles of sky
lights are being cleaned, the frieZes
regilded and the ceiling paintings and
the paintings themselves being di-
vested Of their coating of smoke and
dust, the accumulation of the ages.
SO when the Americans come, as soon
as they can get their passports, they
Will behold a new Louvre, more beau
tiful and attractive than they ever
have seen it.
The same to a lesser degree may be
said of all Of the sights and museums
| or Paris. New things have been added.
| up to date arrangements have been
| accomplished In the general upheaval,
for some of these things we have
at least to be thankful to the regen-
| Grating influences of great war.
| a ne rly
the lips of strangers when they know
that the Louvre is the richest and
most important museum in the world.
that the French might pay their debts
instead of spending millions for OBJ
jects of art. 1t may not be amiss to
observe that at least two-thirds of
the treasures there are gifts and have
been donated. Thus. the Alphonse de
Rothschild collection, the Theirs COL
lection and SO on. Also the Louvre is
the mother house of art in France,
and at this moment she is giving hos
pitality to all the art objects, pictures,
statuary and tapestries from the dew
astated regions.
On the vast floor Of what WIS once
the royal riding school of the Prince
Imperial. that unfortunate son Of Ma
poleon III. and Empress Eugene who
was killed by the Zulus in Africa.
there now stands a great collection
from Rheims, Albert, st. Quentin and
the rest. 1t Is a pitiful object to look
at The gilt frames, with each one
its treasure, are standing on edge
piled one against another mutely there
on the floor. waiting for their towns
to be rebuilt, when they, too, may go
back home.
Cafes Alive Again.
Tho pastels Of La Tour, from st
Quentin, which were taken by the
Germans when they captured st
Quentin and carried up near the Ger.
man frontier ready to be moved tc
Berlin as soon as the Boche were VIC
tortous, but which were restored aftel
the armistice was signed, are on ex-
hibition in a room Of the Louvre, and
the one franc entrance fee charged IL
see this collection Is being given tc
help the destitute of st. Quentin. 9th.
erwise all entrance to the Louvre, rs
well as to all other museums OF Paris
is free.
The greatest transformation of al
has taken place with the cafes alonr
the boulevards. These are shining In
their fresh coats of paint, new anC
attractive awnings have replaced the
old faded ones, elaborate wicker chairs
in gay colors have been added, and In
some cases background of curtains
has been put up outside the windows
these drawn back revealing the tempt.
ingly set tables in spotless liner
within. The business of Paris 1,
transacted at the cafes. the drinks ar,
an incident.
Groups Of men gather around tn,
tables; they make their rendezvou.
there. The snappy little chasseurs IL
uniform are at the disposition of tn,
} clients These run to the furthes
ends Of Paris carrying messages
} Their fec is a small one, depending
} II the message is a rush one they
take a taxi when requested. Thes,