The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1919-05-16

Tul6, WHICH Is dDOul tllc lilot VI oUhS
I will say from the first to the tenth
providing the ground is nice and
warm, otherwise wait until it is warm
The way / test my ground before
planting is to take a few beans and
go to the bean field and plant them
so to be in the moisture nicely which
as a rule would be about three inches
deep. Cover them over with loose
mulch dirt and pack them some. Then
examine 10 min. later and If ground
is in the right condition to receive
the beans you will find the skins all
wrinkled up if not wait until it gets
a little warmer. But if they are
wrinkled get busy at once.
plant my beans with a two-row
Boston bean planter. The rows should
be three feet apart and the beans two
and a half inches apart in the rows.
A regular grain drill is just as good
providing you drive straight enough
SO your odd rows will be three feet
apart, then you can cut them nicely
with a bean cutter, but If you have a
12-foot drill then o would not have
any odd rows to bother with.
After your beans are planted, roll
them with a log roller or steel roller,
so to pack the ground more and make
more fine mulch on top. Harrow
them crosswise with the rows when
about one week out of the ground IT
you have any small weeds in sight.
Start cultivating when ten days or two
weeks old and cultivate very close
and about three or four inches deep.
After that if you have to cultivate the
second time don't use shovels but use
sweeps or knives. l use an eight
inch knife and one 15-inch knife on
each side of the gang and work them
an angle and go just as shallow
as you can to cut the weeds, so as
not to interfere with the bean roots
they are very close to the surface
and quite often reach across to the
next row. If you cannot cultivate
digging up these roots, quit.
Hoe them after the second cultivating
when the wild oats are five or six
inches tall. One hoeing is enough
you hoe early. Cultivate with
any time but when they are
blooming or a heavy dew or right aft
or a rain, cultivating when the leaves
ire damp is what makes those black
spots on the beans where it fastens
INTO the pod. This Injuries the sale OF
our beans. Cut them with a two-row
cutter when about One-half of the
pods are ripe and the rest turning
A quite green pod will, If
given time before thrashing, mature
n the shock and make just as white a
as any. / use a Keystone side
delivery rake for raking them and
lave them put in shocks rs soon as
possible. After being in the shock
wo or three days start stacking them.
the hot sun may make some OF the
ipest pods open up and them to
halter out when being handled.
lave your stack narrower at the bot
than on top and leave your stack
bout flat on top SO when you
with straw the wind has no chance
0 uncover it for you, but be sur you
ut on enough straw to absorb all the
ain that might fall. Dat straw is
ar the best for covering stacks. Now
lstead of giving your land a straight
lmmerfallowing as is being done
yer the largest part of Washington
nd a part of Idaho, get some good
led and raise beans and make more
oney the year you summerfallow
it'll beans than you will make off
le same ground by putting it in
heat the next year. The bean hulls
r cattle are equally as good as al
lfa hay, but for horses it is about
e same as timothy hay.
In 1917 / planted 45 lbs. per acre
ID got an average of 1875 lbs. per
without one drop of rain on them
nile growing and sold a part of them
r 12Nc. a pound and had them in
e stack in go days from the time
ey were planted. Last year / plant
48h lbs. per acre and received an
erage Of 1925 lbs. per acre and sold z