Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1919-10-19
Anne Rtenhouse Tells of Changes Made by Designers Of World
Fashion entertainments Made Especially for Arnei-
cans-Doucets Pictorial Parade-Useo of Leather.

long time with the house Of Premet.
1t opened last season and made an
instant success. The Americans like
1t. The buyers are lavish in their
orders there. So what goes at that
house Ia apt to go in America, or, at
least. be given good trial. This
season the house shows a good col
lection without any pictorial effect or
startling novelty. except the treat
ment Of the pannier. The suits show
the usual knee-length coat and high
wrinkled collar, with godet fullness
ut the sides, and now and then q
mass Of stirring at the hips. but the
evening gowns have a curious way Of
developing the hip extension.
One gown. well bought by Amerj-
can dressmakers. called Sans Nom
Is in black satin with skirt SHRED
over elastic bands up and down the
hips, forming puffs that are not un-
like the Elizabethan trunks worn by
men. The skirt Is short in front with
a pointed train at back, and the color
is given by sprays of embroidery done
in sphinx beads which are lavishly
used here in varying shades of pow
der blue. The bodice is deeply point
ed, surplice, in the prevailing decol-
letage, the material carried as high
as the bust and held in place by neck
laces of jet squares that go over the
shoulder to the waist at back. Just
there is another novelty, for the
shoulder strap on the right side is
quite long in front and supports an
immense blue feather fan. To an
other evening gown a fan of red
eagle feathers is attached by a shout
der strap.
Nine. Renee's own gown, which
is always featured, was in two parts,
q narrow skirt of black satin and a
tunic of chiffon covered with bright
blue and black chenille embroidery
that extended beyond the hips where
1t was Joined to an irregular fiounce
OF black chantilly lace. There was
narrow belt Of the satin. She
called it lie Meme"
A combination Of black satin and
dull silver lace made an excellent
American gown called Bridge" Odd,
that so many American names have
u,
Bridge" for instance, which is the
popular indoor pastime of the Ameri.
can women, is popular name here
for gowns, also Indiana" and
Florida" There are so many In
dianas" that one suspects the boys
of those regiments of leaving some
sentimental memories among the at
tractive mannequins
But back to Bridge" which ia
worth describing. The under slip Is
narrow and not too short, it extends
to the bust and over it is tunIc of
furnished silver lace with a design
worked out in bright lace. Below
the, edge of the tunic, on the satin
slip. is an elaborate design in en-
broidered silver leaves, done in sill
yer and gray silk and threads. The
tunic has a pointed bodice in front.
high at the back and a fiat band at
the waist line, to which the lower
part is attached in middle Of back
and front, with large round pleats at
the sides to give dimension.
The cloth frocks. especially those
in bright colored stripes on beige or
gray background, are girlish and only
suitable for slim figures, but their
dashing irregularity can be copied
in plain fabrics for other types Of
women. Blue serge. by the way, is
so frequently used along with black
taffeta that one feels the market for
fabrics is showing the non-produc-
ton Of war time.
There Is one gown called "rour-
iste" that is quite attractive, with a
green and blue stripe on a deep cafe
au lait background. The skirt ia
laid in groupings Of machine pleat-
ing cut on the bias at the hem, each
two groups overlapping. The waist
Is narrow and slightly long-waisted
with an immense eighteenth century
collar OF seal.
Martial ct Armand was the first
house to show leather ornamentation
as well as leather frocks and suits.
but nearly all the houses give kid
a trial. 1t comes in with the early
Italian movement in clothes. and the
Florentine design, with its graceful
scrolls, makes a really admirable
method of covering the surface Of
gowns and wraps. One house uses
the design in gray squirrel on
velvet wrap in a most effective man
ner. All that type Of Italian work
Is revived and leather IL only one