The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1919-09-13

Los Angeles, Sept. 13.-Why go to
Paris for your fashion hints, when in
California you can SO easily tell the
forecasts of the mode by the stars
movie stars, of course-whose film
fashions picture the latest wrinkles
evolved by French designers almost
even before ParisienneS get on to
them. Out in Hollywood, where the
stars do move in their Universal
orbits. to say nothing of Paramount,
Pathe and Goldwyn courses, the Paris
decree has the cinema sanction that
the 1919 model maid and matron will
meet the first tang of autumn in garb
of gabardine. This sounds so differ
ent from the inevitable serge in which
she has repealed the first GOODNESS of
divers preceding falls. Yet so alike
are serge and its first cousin, gabar-
dine, and its second cousin tricotine,
that only a close scrutiny can distin-
guish these three twilled triplets
apart. But oh, what that subtle little
difference does mean to the tickle
femininei Tho last years serge frock
be smart and chic. still she will die of
chagrin till she grabs a gabardine.
Anything to get away from the navy
blue serge that has shown which way
the fashionable autumn wind blew for
so long a time. Tho the gabardine
does not surge far from its family re-
semblance to serge. at least it is draw
ing the color line. With joyous aban-
don. it abandons the blues and goes
in strongly for all Shades of tan and
brown. In spite of prohibition, fash
ion does seem to have a dark brown
taste this fall. OF course, blue will
not be DOTTED completely. but it will
run second to the brown shades this
year even tho it is guaranteed not to
run. Gabardine of black, too. prom
Uses dark future even as our past
has been dark black satin all the
summer.
Many new touches differentiate the
modish gabardine frock from it's rele-
gated relative. the serge of yesterday.
Braid all ways and always will bind
it and band 1t and run it round and
round. Mamie may not be there with
her hair in a braid. but her gabar-
dine frock will be braided enough to
make up for the deficiency
Even the bottoms of the not-too-
long-not-too short = but always full
skirts are braid bound instead of
hemmed. Braid finishes seams in
seemingly fashion. picks out pockets
and outlines collars. Braided designs
Of lavish ornateness also ornament
the more elaborate frocks. anS frogs
of braid. animating many a skirt and
bodice, have jumped high into fash
ionable favor. Galloon galore, which
after all is a sort of giorified braid,
Win us Qull SOiO the Drown
shaded gaoardines particularly. The
high light Of a yoke or guimpe Of
organdie or batiste adds a frivolous
and softening touch around the face
on the black or blue models, while ba-
tiste or net in ecru tone does the same
for the tan, brown or henna models.
Unders1eeves of these sheer materials
are very chic with three-quarter bell
shaped sleeves OF the gabardine, but
short or long sleeves, according to
milady'S fancy or arm contours, are
equally permissible.
Satin, too. is smart in combination
with the gabardine. usually of a like
shade rather than a contrasting color
tho tones of beige and tan with black
satin are rather chic.
The main thing. however. is that
you be upbraided- and downbraided il
you would remove the sTnartness from
the first winds Of Autumn and f1ant It
instead in your gabardine frock-