The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1919-03-19

e NO PSLoJ. 1O" AhOAtAo 1AoSO pCSA
a time of watchful waiting on the
part Of students of fashion. The
great question-shall we have a new
silhouette? -has been answered
dozen different ways. Some design
ers say we shall, an dhave gone so
far as to contribute sketches of the
new woman of the new era. We
looked and read obviously at the
longer and perceptibly smaller
waistline; the full effect over the
hips and the flatness in the back
and In the front. This sounds very
plausible, and is hypothesis for
countless digressions, except for
those vertical Lines in the back and
front Of the skirt. They are very well
to consider for the slender figure but
when one just isn't vertical anywhere
the we'll laid plans Of our dressmak-
ers might come to grief. However,
SO far there is no radical change in
the figures outline, though there is
no telling where the whims Of the
experts may land us before the sum-
mer is over. It is perhaps worth
while to consider that other wars
have had their effect upon styles, but
gradually, with no sudden difference
in the mode simply slow drifting
over q period of several seasons into
culminati0 on sOf "a new ashton. y
After all, does q Silhouette really
matter? Women have become indie
pendent along other lines, and when
we stop and take a look at the varied
periods we see sponsored on the smart
est dressers, 4 1t does look as il they
were no longer slaves to their mo-
diste's dictations. We see simultan-
eOusly on the newest and most dash
Ing costumes any one of three styles
OF waist, high, low and the new near
wasp" waist. We have skirts pleated,
skirts short and skinny, skirts long
and slit for ease in walking. We have
long, tight sleeves, flowing sleeves,
and short fitted sleeves. Variety is
the word, yet it spells style as ex-
pressed by individuality.
Wooden fabrics which are the most
popular for early spring suits are du-
vetyn, tricOtine, gabardine, light
weight broadcloth and the ubiquitous
serge. Black, blue, gray and combina-
lions Of blue and henna, black and
tan, and gray and navy are seen in the
popular coat dresses. Braiding is ex-
tremely popular again and is carried
out in silk and wool combinations,
with heavy stitching and beads.
4 Taffeta is, of course, the silken ia
vorite OF the moment, and is used al.
most to the exclusion OF fOulard which
was such a rage last season. Satin
seconds taffeta for the new afternoon
frocks and quite number Of printed
geOrgettes and chiff0ns are being
shown for afternoon wear. Tricotine
Is, of course. irreproachable, but it is
so frightfully expensive that it may
only be whispered about or used spar
ingly in connection with less grand
materials.
There has been a great fear thai
our designers would not permit us to
wear capes again this season: But
our minds were relieved with the ear
Hest showing, and since we have seer
many variations of this most graceful
and useful of wraps. They are not
quite so full as those of last year;
In fact they are not unlike the dol
mans our grandmothers wore, pulled
in at the hem and squared off as tx
sleeves. Others are glOrified coats
with very wide sleeves and the new
loose effect about the, waist which is
very distinctive. Scarf collars of the
material bordered at the ends with
fringe are seen on some Of the SAITH
and tricollette capes. 4
Utility coats are made in serge, sill
vertone, tweed and novelty fabrics
Set-in sleeves or raglan style are equa
ly good, and on most Of the. motor
coats, we have patch pockets, aft
wide belts.
As has been proved times without
number, the American woman viii
never give up her tailored suit, which
she has always preferred but fol
which she in war times substituted
the more practical one-piece dress ant
top coat. Suits for the most par
made on simple lines, following gen
eral slim idea, and trimmed with but
tons or braiding The coats vary il
length, but the two most popular
styles are the new box jacket and the
straight coat of finger-tip length. Some
suits have no collars at all and no fas
Jennings, merely a separate waistcoa
OF pique, silk or linen which is bastet
in and has a belt of the suit materia
tied across It. Others have a new wide
shawl collar which forms pockets a
the bottoms Of the coat and still 9th
ersscling to the mannish notched col
( lar. and q slightly flaring hem. Skirt
i tend to becoming fullness about th,
n aainas and huu the ankles closely giyina