davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-12-21
america Wins
High Honors
In Aviation
xcAIs First to Gross Attain
H.: British Win in Non
stop Flights With Trips
Of Dirigiblc and Alcock
Continent Is Crossed
Ming Aviators Climb High
r. Into Clouds for Altitude
nd Endurance Records

n. Atlantic Ocean was successfully
.a four times by aircraft the last
~. w;tbout the loss Of single life.
s;s Is the outstanding achievement
:. ' .vi,tion during 1919, according to
:. .,,ono,osicsl list Of commercial accom-
'. .'sments issued by the Manufactur-
~, Aircraft Association yesterday
u. to the list, the North and
1871 s's,h Males are practically the only
' wv. IN the earth's surface over
. r,;.h an sirplane has yet to fly.
I,o.her remarkable performance
=. the fight of Captain Ross Smith
. 10, London to Australia, distance
:. 1880 miles. This flight was over
..ms territory on which no white man
.vsr set foot. After flying ten
.s.u.a,d miles. the aviator was COM
..IIsd TO fly from Bandoeng. Java to
~. noru;n Australia. distance of
700 miles, over sea.
Forest Fires Are Watched
r.s wear has seen the establishment
an ser;sl forest FIRE patrol in which
.otsl Of oS5.724 miles has been flown
os7a hours. During this time the
u i,nlsnes engaged have been instru-
-a.rr.sI in putting out $40 dangerous
res and saving millions OF dollars
sorth Of property
The last year has been the most re-
s,kahle in the development of avia-
.,an New worlds records nave been
..,shr.hed In every branch Of flying.
~ these records several have been won
- America, including the worlds al
.,.rde record for pilot alone. for pilot
md one passenger, for seapIane' me
,r,ston record, for both heavier and
i;chter than air craft, the nonstop dis
nee record for non-rlgid airshEps and
10 record for speed.
Air Aviation Chronology
The following chronology shows some
# the outstanding performances dur
ng the year:
January + (transcontinental pathfnd-
M tour -Four army. Curtiss J. N. Al
lHispano-SuIza) airplanes complete
s,OoO-mile fight in fifty flying hours.
Aerial photographs and maps taken and
aerial mail routes and landing fields
elected.
January IL (Rockaway to Key West)
United States dirigible CT flies 1850
niles
January l7-Navy airplane success
'uly launched from dirigible in fight.
February Endurance flight, Cape
Nay, " j., Goodyear airship hies thir-
y.three hours Assuming average
'pesd to have been forty miles an hour.
approximately l,a20 miles were flown.
February 12-Looping record, Lieu
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-12-21
New Altitude Mark Set
Frenchman Climbs l9, 685 Feet
With Two Passengers

PARIS, Dee. 2o.-Lieutenant Henri
Roget made q new airplans record
for altitude with two passengers to-
day. Flying through thick mist, he
reached an altitude Of 5000 metres
G9,685 feet). The previous record for
altitude with two passengers was 5,420
metres (17,782 feet. Roget's feat was
accomplished under official supervi-
sion.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-12-21
Canada TO Lift Liquor ''Lid''
Order Also Passed Freeing All
Military Offen6era

OTTAWA, Ont, Feb. 20.---An order
granting amnesty to military offenders
has been passed by the Federal Cab
met, it was announced to-day. 1t stops
all prosecutions and releases prisoners
under the military service act.
With regard to liquors. it IL UNDER
stood that bill in council is being
passed resembling all the wartime re-
strictions with a few exceptions az
from January l.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-12-21
Berlin Extends Hours of Bars
For Christmas and New Years

BERLIN, Dec. 20-The closing hour
for cafes, hotels and bars will be adj
vanced to l q. m. on New Years Eve,
so that the usual celebration can take
place, according to the "Vossische lei
tung,' which says a similar extension
in closing time will be made on Christ
mas Eve and the night following. 1t is
probable, also, that Saturday after
Christmas will be made a banking holi-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-12-21
Cold Hampers Work of Firemen

Frozen hydrants hampered tiremen
summoned to extnguish fire caused
by an overheated furnace in the base
ment of the two-famly dwelling at
1871 Eighty-second Street, BROOKLYN
early yesterday. Tenants of this house
and nearby structures, who rushed into
the street scantily clad, reported
numerous cases Of frost-btc The fire
loss was estimated at 5000.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
FURS AND FINE CLOTH OFFER
LITTLE DIFFERENCE IN COST

treated that II is impervious to rain.
It is found that the heather mixtures
and intermingled colored surfaces are
much better for wrap for general
use than the solid colors, and for this
reason smart coats in twilled cords and
invisible stripes and mixtures are
much in demand for bad weather
wraps and general service.
Lined with Wool or Flannel.
OF course many women find it prae-
teal to use the coat suit through the
winter season, and for this reason have
the coat heavily interlined with lambs
wool or flannel. Years ago we often
saw the lining of Jackets of this sort
made OF white and gray rabbit skin,
also much used for the long and all
enveloping evening capes, but rabbit
skin is costly these days. and one
rarely finds It so employed except for
motor and ocean travel.
1t Is quite possible to insert an
interlining of one Of the fieeoy warm
wocllen fabrics without adding clumsi-
ness to the coat No combination is
| loyelier than one of the soft blue
heather mixtures with a soft gray fur
one such coat suit has the plain skirt
which is demanded on all the newest
models and a rather short Jacket in
u box coat effect, except that II is
not distinctly a box coat, for a belt
placed across the back prevents this
A high collar of gray squirrel tumbles
around the throat and also adds cuffs
to the tight sleeves. The new coat
suits, like the new dresses and wraps
reveal no radical departures in the
way OF design or lines.
Skirts are only slightly shorter. but
distinctly wider. thirty-six inches, and
ever more, being the accepted meas
urement around the bottom. Because
the skirt is short the majority OF
coats will reach only to the hip. A
clever model has a panel down this
back, broken to hang over the waist
line and extending in a position ef
feet slightly longer than the sides Of
the Jacket. The material used 1:
tobacco brown duvetyn. very soft anc
rich looking, and the fur collar anC
tabs placed on the back panel are o.
brown seal.
Broadcloth and duvetyn will vi
for favor in the more expensive suits
while serge. whipcord, Poiret twill an
gabardine are favored for general use
The greatest simplicity characterize
these suits. The coats often buttoI
quite up to the chin and are held II
at the waist with a narrow strinl
belt Of the serge or material Of whlcl
they are made. These are simply an
we'll tailored in the good fashion whicl
has given America the reputation
SO we'll deserves in the matter o
, women's coat suits.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

along the bottom of short Jackets, and
used also to trim fur toques>
The use Of monkey fur on an eve
ming wrap Of heaviest black satin is
not unpleasing. as It has been cleverly
done. but monkey fur will not be
greatly admired, however smart 1t may
be considered. On the particular wrap
which 1t embellishes the back has been
caught up In a sort Of overdrapery
suggesting the dropping blouse the
French makers exploit continuously.
The fur is used as a banding under
meath this drapery and extends around
to the front and down the sides of
the coat. The very long hair has all
the effect of fringe and is soft and
silky. The sleeves in this wrap are
really mere Sits in the front sides,
and they too are edged with the mon
key fur and form the collar, which is
so made that It buttons up around the
ears or falls away in a little cape
effect. The lining OF this handsome
wrap is OF white satin pailletted with
| huge black velvet dots. This fashion
of doubling material adds as much to
the cost as 1t does to the beauty OF a
garment and the fall cloak is apt to
be as radiant inside-perhaps even
more so than the outside.
Less pretentious than this silken
wrap and very lovely is a handsome
straight hanging coat OF tan camel's
hair with perfectly unbroken lines
down the back except for a tight plain
yoke across the shoulders. At the sides
a pointed pocket effect Is introduced In
1 he tel
which rumples around the throat Is
also made of the rich brown seal. The
sleeves are long and tight and An
ished at the wrist with a narrow cum
of the brown seal. This is an excel
lent example of a conservative and
beautiful coat suitable for every day
time occasion.
velvet Wraps for Evening Wear.
SO many women have invested in
handsome fur pieces for wear with the
one piece dress that the demand for
the untrimmed coat is met by the man
lufacturers in velvet wraps for evening
wear which have no fur whatever
about them. These are for the most
part made up in rather simple designs
with long, loose lines, plain, rather
tight sleeves, and resembling elongated
jackets. They are very graceful, an6
with the addition of ones own furs are
quite as sumptuous as the average
woman need demand.
For motoring some very smart cape'
of fine English tweed are made with
lambs wool Innings, which unbuttor
) and can be quickly removed. Thes'
travelling capes are delight fol
steamer and motor car, and are COPIED
J from trench coats much used by Off
} GERS during the war. The tweed Is 5,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

bling spun gold and shining silver RI
citing through the satin or Alken sur
face are entrancingly beautiful. Crys-
tai beads and rhinestone strings will
DO lavishly used.
One maker has displayed a frock Of
white satin with an overdrapery Of
white tulle showered throughout with
crystal beads as delicate and lovely
as raindrops. Pink roses trail I'M
derneath the draperies which are cas-
caded at the hips, and strings Of roses
and the crystal beads go over the
shoulders. The feather trimming
which was SO extensively used last
year is to DO even more in demand
this--not only as edging for flounces
and sleeves but clusters OF these soft
plumes will be placed at intervals on
skirt and bodice.
Black and then more black seems
to be decreed for evening affairs. In
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
By MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON.

BY MAN ia 1NODE ANDEkoOrN.
~ ECoGNIzING the beauty OF
X the late summer and early fall
i - models OF dresses, II is not
difficult to turn our attention en-
tirely away from the summer modes
and feast our eyes upon the newer
beauties to be spread before us. AS
the first showing indicates tricolette,
duvetyne. tricot de laine. wool velours
and sIlvertone lead in the one piece
frock fabrics. The chemise type Of
dress predominates. Necks are square
and finished with fine collars Of soft
batiste and rare lace. Sleeves are
short. Skirts are also tight and short.
The uncorseted effect 10 presented
above all others. These are the pre-
dominating characteristics Of the
newer gowns.
Tricot de laine 10 q new fabric re-
sembhng tricolette. It Ia knitted. with
a ribbed effect through the surface and
is somewhat newer than tricolette
though not more popular. as that
material seems to be entering on an
other season Of unbroken demand. The
combination of these knitted fabrics
with woollen or satin is often found
Just as 1t has been done before. In
fact there are no new or distinctly
novel effects to chronicle. The French
influence seems to be making itself
felt more and more as evidenced by
the somewhat shorter skirts and
sleeves. OF course the short sleeves
bring about a demand for gloves and
we learn that London has set the
fashion for wearing gloves again pre-
ferring pale gray and white to all
others.
Nothing Simple About the Prices.
Let us not think for a moment that
the simplicity Of the dress indicates
a corresponding simplicity In price
for such is not the case at all. Indeed
these soft and lovely woollen and
silken knitted frocks mount up into
prices which will give most Of US a
shock when the moment of buying Ia
at hand. This sort Of dress, however,
has its advantages, for the woollen
materials are heavy enough to wear
for some months without an extra
wrap, the fur collar. or stole giving
sufficient warmth for a time. Indeed
many Of the fall frocks are designed
especially for street wear. A year
ago we would have called them coat
dresses, for some show a short jacket
effect opening over a vest Of richly
woven and brilliantly colored material
by way Of contrast and others copy
the lines OF heavy outer coat.
While the darker colors are best
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

fact there is nothing smarter than the
net or tulle or lace frock entirely of
black and relieved only by some touch
Of silver or gold brocade introduced in
girGle or about the bodice in some
clever way. Tulle Is successfully EN-
ployed on many black net gowns, fall
ing on one OF them from shoulder 20
waist, where 1t is caught with a Jet
cabuchon and trails on down the
skirt to the hem. Angel sleeves,
which are not entirely new, sweep
the floor. and a new sleeve called
"web'' sleeve is made of threads of
beads and tulle which, match the
body Of the gown. The web sleeve
likewise sweeps the floor in misty
lengths.
Lavender. tulle and amethyst beads
put together in web effect are used
as the only trimming on panne velv"
gown of orchid shade.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
Short Skirts and Sleeves Square Necks Finished With Fine Collars
the Uncosed Effect Are Chief Characteristics New GownsWoo
Veous Ircoette Dvne Trcot de Lame and Sivertone Lead
in One Piece Frock Fabrcs-Unusual Colors in Demand

suited for the street, It is interesting to
see the great number of light colored
dresses in the pale shades, One such,
for instance, Is of bright Jade green
duvetyn. No other color is used to
Offset the charm Of this color or break
the lines except for a slight draped ef-
feet at the hips. The frock slips over
the head and is without fsstenings. as
this too IL one Of the new features.
The shoulders are, of course, perfectly
fitted, so that the frock may be easily
and gracefully adjusted by means Of q
crushed girdle so arranged as to give
a cuirass resemblance at the waist
line.
Unusual Colors I'm Demand.
There seems to be q demand for
bright and unusual colors. Henna is
one of the newer tones, brought out
last season, which IL considered very
good this fall. One finds a henna
tricolette one piece gown with fringe
OF heavy henna silk reaching from hips
to hem. This frinsed skirt IL to DO
much seen as the fall advances. In
fact, while we have considered fringe
a thing Of the mast A Ia IN he noted
that many OF the imported model. are
featuring IL more and more.
Ennbroiaerv is also Iavishlv usad tho
sort Of heavy stitches which "eo"
quickly and follow irreeuiar designs.
Beading lives on. OF all the trimming,
though, designed to enjoy the greatest
favor, fringe seems preferred, not only
sa,is ~ rihhor, ~. w,dar ,,an az ,,.ra,
lit 49, o.. S-,...,.s .. ..asa,.,,,
s,.,,,o'.s ~, $3.50. ss"n.,,
o. -. CO s ~ 49,, 49,,
-, ~ u'~u 'ne ,n iese
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

brilliant or unusual about these satin
dresses-they are demure and sober
with no draperies and little trimming,
but there Is. in spite Of these facts, a
certain distinction about them most
pleasing. They are brought out for
utility and service and Will not fail
In these requirements.
1t has been noted during the sum-
mer that in the gayest and most FASH
ionable resorts preference for dark
and subdued silks and foulards has
been Indicated by the great number
of such gowns. In a certain most
fashionable hotel last week a quar-
tet Of fashionable women was seen
lunching, each attired in dark fou-
lards relieved by trailing white sprays
or huge white dots against the rather
sombre silken surface. The gowns
were topped by wide brimmed hats
with wreaths ossfiowsrs. and thus any
suggestion of sombreness was entirely
lost-thus the fall gown will follow
the general effect. for while 1t will be
OF almost severe simplicity itself the
finest of white lace and batiste coll
lars and cuffs and the gayest OF
CudptduA Will EClcNc any SohhbEoiccos
Indeed, we hear rumor that hats
Of white kid are to be the choice for
the tailleur dress of this kind. 1t
seems a curious notion to top dark
woollen dress with a hat of white kid,
but there is no reason to gasp, for
after we have accepted the fashion
we shall doubtless like It, for kid
hat can be easily kept fresh and white
therefore II will be a useful thing.
Side Panels in Vivid Shades.
/ AS to the more elaborate type Of
frock rather unusual idea has been
brought out by introducing side panels
in the most vivid shades to contrast
with the body Of the gown. These
panels are made Of rich and beautiful
materials and In no way break the de-
sired long slender lines. For instance
on a handsome afternoon frock Of
stone Blue velvet the maker has set
in side panels of a dun green blue
chiffon knife pleated and slit In mar
row pieces, fringelike, to fare with
each step. The same sort OF pictur-
esque effect is obtained in n white
velveteen gown with side panels OF
dull green. The sleeves are quite long
and tight and the only relation the
green panels have with the rest of
the dress is seen in the stitches out
lining the square neck.
Some Manufacturers are wondering
obviously II the absence Of any de-
cided change in the modes win affect
r.
little necessity for buying something
| so closely resembling that already
possessed, and as there is nothing
about q last seasons dress to indicate
| that 1t is not of this years cut we
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

r r one has been denied a fur coat
for many years and has secretly
= cherished a longing therefor. this
Is the year, doubtless. when this long
ing can be gratified, for so expensive
are the lovely cloth things that II pos
session is based on the matter of cost
then a decision in favor of the fur can
be made, as there will be no very great
difference in the price. OF course am
referring to the elaborate and dressy
models which all women admire and
not every one can possess.
We learn OF an effort to revive the
pony skin coats Of bygone year.
There is no doubt at all that every
manufacturer will seek to launch every
sort OF inexpensive fur garment-if
there Is such a thing-hence the ru-
NOR of the pony skin. Squirrel. gray
and brown or dyed to match. is spoken
OF as a trimming. The short fur jack
cts so much used last year, which
were so Jaupty and becoming. are
again in favor for the fur models for
ordinary mortals.
No Radical Changes.
OF course the sumptuous things OF
ermirie, mink, sable and seal are regal
and lovely in capelike and dolman ef-
feots which swathe the wearer from
tip to toe in a luxury indescribable
Just as In the fall dresses there Ii
nothing radically differing from styles
OF recent months, so In coats and
wraps there is no departure from ac'
copied models.
A favored style is seen In the fine
warm coats Of camel's hair following
the design OF an officers trench coat
belted and close fitted for warmth and
comfort. These lovely camel's hail
coats are often mounted with deep fuI
collars of softest texture, such al
brown fox or lynx. The huge patel
pockets and deep fur cuffs which wer,
so in evidence a season ago are M
longer featured so emphatically. eithei
on this sort Of coat or on one OF tn,
velvetlike duvetyns or wool velours.
The dolman shape persists in spit,
of the persistent rumors to the con
trary, and many Of the most exclusive
houses are showing the dolman, no
only In the less expensive materials
but in the splendid furs and. brocadeI
and velvets as well. Much embroider!
In self colors done in heavy silkei
threads Is observed--perhaps for tn
reason that the great cost Of fur will
place II beyond the average pocket
book. A curious notion is seen in tn
use Of monkey fur placed fringelik
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
MISE TYPE OF DRESS PREDON1INATES IN FALL STYLES

all Il In an entirely satisfactory fabric
which can Withstand much wear and
retain It's prestige. Particularly love- |
ly are some simple dancing froc!cs Of
white moire with apron draperies Of
soft white ostrich feather trimming
and angel sleeves Of white tulle.
It matters not how demure ana sim-
pie our street and afternoon frocks
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

shall be curious to see just what the
outcome will be.
Tricolette and velvet win form one
OF the very good combinations which
will be much exploited. A rather I'M
usual treatment Of the combination Is
found in a. black and white one piece
affair, which has the skirt Of black
tricolette and the long cuirass bodice
Of white velvet thickly crisscrossed
with jet beads. The sleeves are Of the
shortest, stopping well above the elbow.
OF course this sort OF dress is best
left for those of young years and
round arms, but II Is the sort Of dress
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

have to swim their fins of giving en-
cores. Another feature in which the
dainty Maxine HeHry stars is the
original number, Look Into My
Heart" supported by Virginia Lee,
lately Of Going Up" and a whole cast
Of Venus de Milos in disguise. There
are some clever dancing numbers by
some Of the lightfoots from the foot.
lights Of Broadway, including grace
full cleopatra Dance" in true Egyp-
tian style by Miss Fredricks.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

may be, the glories Of the evening
frocks are great indeed. Silver and
gold and precious stones-of the clev-
crest imitation type. however. will APP
pear and lace of the richest and rarest,
Brocades with metal threads resem-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

used for the skirt and the thinner
for the long bodice. A string belt Of
velvet is placed at the hip line. for
after all we are not to have a defined
waist line any more than we have had
during the summer.
II is astonishing the way MORE
silks keep coming forward--every little
while some well known maker
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03

launches a dress OF this rather old
fashioned material with more or less
success. 1t Is thought that MORE will
really catch on for a partial success
for dinner and less formal gowns than
the dancing and theatre type. After
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
Pelham Heath Inn.

Those who have discovered Pelham
Heath Inn. on the Pelham Parkway
acclaim its hospitality in no unmeas'
ured terms, for they count themselves
fortunate who have tarried within itf
homelike portalA
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-03
Fountain Inn.

Fountain Inn, on the Merrick Road
at Lynbrook, is enjoying a popularity
only measured by capacity diners
nightly and there is no lull in business
noticeable since the advent of war
time prohibition.