Evening journal., 1919-08-13
FIVE YEARS AGO.

Total ... s4246 Total zee. $1,000
Mere man, who used TO be able TO gel
fixed up for the new season, like Beau
Brummel Of old. for a $50 bill, Will have
10 spend three OF them this fall If ht
wants TO continue 10 rival Soloman in
all his glory
As for women--weil, The experts who
used 60 tell her that she could win a
handsome young millionaire for hus-
band on a 500 outfit have got 10 revise
their figures, as IL will take nearly three
times that much this fall just 30 look
decent and a lot extra for The dress
luxuries so dear TO the feminine heart.
OF course. the great increase in cost
cannot be blamed altogether upon sup
plies. Five yeans ago tin great majority
OF men were satisfied with a cotton
shirt i5-cenl hose and 50ycent tie
Although cheap, these articles were
not thrown into the discard. but were
worn until the shirts tore at the collar
band. the hose had other holes besides
the one The foot went into and the tie
threadbsre. Then they were patched
up by the provident housewife and
handed down 10 the young hopeful OF
the family.
Five years ago a woman bought a suit |
for S25 and wore 1t until IL was worn
out. whether that took one or several
seasons. She was not so we'll up in ar
tlstic color combinations as she is TO-
day so the one hat for which she paid
$50 was worn with whatever else she
wore. Her s. shoes We're worn ION
sundays" and through the week she
wore for second best" the pair that
ihe season before had graced her sun
day walk. The little cotton vest and |
dhe muslin combination were but in
cidcnlals in her wardrobe.
To-day men have grown as fasiidious
about their clothes as women. PPepar-
Ing their toilet for business. they pick a
pair Of hose from the drawerful in the
obifonier TO match the suit. Then the
silk shirt. which was worn only upon
state occasions lve years ago. is match
ID with the hose. and a tie picked from
what almost equals retailers stock
Ave years ago, is selected to match the
shirt
Besides this. man no longer puts on a
suit OF clothes in the morning and
wears Il until he goes TO bed at night.
He has his business suit and his dress
'uit. He boasts Of his golf and sports
He has quite as many
'hanges as the women Of his family
md takes up just as much space in
he cupboard.
Dressing has become r fine art with
very woman. instead OF only in a lin
ted circle. as was the case i've years
go. style that indeflnable some !
hing which marks the well-dressed wo-
nan. is sought for as critically by The .
hopgirl as by the woman OF means.
indeed, 10 is commonly reported that !
he smariest styles are those set by :,
he girls who work in the shops. sew \
lg on suits, coats and gowns. for the !
7Omen who have nothing TO do but =
pend their incomes. No woman could :
year cotton hose in these days, appar- !,
ntly. and remain on speaking terms u
With her self-respect. Shoes are bought !,
With as much care as the connOisseurI -
estows upon a rare painting. y
Instead of being an incidental part OF a
nilady's wardrobe. crepe de chine un- ="
lerwear has become one Of the most
features OF dress. and many q
women carry a regular stock OF 10 on ~
land, changing from pink TO lavender -
md from lavender 20 flesh color, sew !. ~
sra times a day. so that from out y.
Nards in'nards' she may he a sym ~
Dhony In color. The extravagant prices p'
paid for corsets are excuse on the p'
ground OF hygiene as wen as style. al
Few women will confess that they have 10
lgures which, were Il not for the cor q
'eL would be classed as 'hOpeless" but
" VIII admit that they pay great at y
e1t5on 20 their corsets, in order to get u
noNfs that will not interfere with
eaifit "
So the high cost OF the fall OUTFIT Is Y
ne. in part. 10 the public itself 81
There is, however. a large portion OF ~
le cost. which is due TO the cycle OF :
1aiion that is today recognized as a
rious handicap to bringing down the F
'sf Of living The producer OF raw
aferials. accustomed TO the big profits
lowed him by the government during
e war. in order that production
ouid be stimulated. demands an in
ease in The 80 per cent. profit which
made during that period The manu- :
siurer biames high labor costs for the /.
per cent. which he insists he must
TO his costs The retailer blames
yh labor costs, as well as increase in
her operating expenses. for the profit
tacks on 10 the goods.
We are not in business for our
alth." says a trade paper in recent
,1ie sic tho commences form, of t,,ot4