davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

line, and the latter place them on frocks
for the street and evening.
RECRUDESCENCE OF POCKETS
1t was quite natural that pockets, real
and simulated, should appear on clothes
as soon as hip distenson made itself
fashionable To certain artists in dress
this pocket idea as a means of drapery
and of employing color is nearly five
years old. 1t really goes back two CEN
turtles to the clothes of Britain and
France when immense pockets were
placed on mems costumes. They were
made of gorgeous materials and heavily
jeweled; often the lining Of the pocket
was made of brilliant stripes and pulled
out itno huge triangles to give wirth.
This trick. BY the way. was successfully
tried by Jenny of Paris 1t may strike
a new note in ornamentation and give
inspiration to those who are searching
in the mold of centuries for new ideas,
grateful. even for small one.
The furriers have found in the new
silhouette happy idea for trimming fur
or cloth coats with Gargantuan pockets
of peltry. One Paris coat made Of beige
cloth has these pockets placed on each
side in sufficient width and depth to
hold an umbrella. 1t would not astonish
the American to see a Parisenne carrying
her parapluie in this manner. If it rains
over there as much in peace as it has in
war she will need it whenever she leaves
the house.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26
A Campaign of Education

The country Is getting what 1t needs,
and that is campaign of education
Demagogues, trust busters. soap-box
orators and the I. w. w. have all had
their day. Now that we are facing a
critical situation. the other side is be-
ing heard. Perhaps it is its own fault
that it was not heard before. but cap.
ital is always timid or else too busy
to pay heed to anything but the mat
ter of making money.
The campaign of education on the
strike question is doing its work and
inspiring members .or Congress With
the courage that they haYe sadly
lacked. Il was inspiring to read the
address by Senator Robinson of Ar
kansas, one Of the leading democratic
members. declaring: 1.-THE time has
public against loss Of life and prop
erty. and widespread suffering, which
will inevitably result if the railroa Is
should be tied up by general strike"
The public is having a campaign of ed
ucation, too, concerning the merits of big
business. H44h the packers are having
their day In Washington. At last we
are having the truth on both sides of
the packers question. Conceding that in
the past, as in every other line of BUSH
ness, there were injustices, lit is now
developed that these occurred years ago,
and that for the past few years the con-
duct Of the packers has been satisfac-
tory, not only to the live stock producers,
but also to the wholesalers and retailers.
An army Of these from all parts of the
country have promptly come forward to
challenge the charges against the pack
ers / admire their courage have no
reason to believe that they have not told
the truth. -
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

OF crinoline or whalebone. They prefer
the methods by which Jean Patou man.
ages the drapery of skirts in order to give
unusual and. attractive hip distension.
This young designer has created a sig
He has talent for the unusual, he is
very much in the swirl of Deauville and
Monte Carlo life, and he knows through
personal experience what the smartly
dressed women want to wear. He is emil
Eently Parisienne: His is a new house,
new houses this last summer in Paris.
The great names have not suffered an
eclipse, but such places as Madeleine &
Madeleine, viennot, Patou, lAviotty and
Charlottee& Germaine have created fol-
lowing for themselves that promises a
good clothes, it is true, but much OF
their success lies in the struggle of the
buyers in Paris to get away from the
gowns that are widely copied in this
country in cheap grades of material
they think they can accomplish this by
as long as all of them don't go at one
time.
Americas acceptance of the extra di-
Niensions on hips will be mainly in
the manipulation of material, and the
French have taught them much in this
work. The houses that use. whalebones
and crinolines have not exercised their
ingenuity as much with drapery as the
minor houses which eliminate the high
ly artificial distension; it is in the latter
exercise Of ingenuity that the average
American woman finds her chance OF
keeping up with the fashion in way
that does not give her touch of the
atricalsm.
The organ pipe pleats RAY be reck-
oned as one of the modes Of eniargine
complish; also there is serious doubt
as to their attractiveness; they have
the unpleasant stiffness of the seven
teenth century. Spanish costumes and
are bit too unyielding in their lines
to suit the average figure. which Should
iOOh lAldut anu SdPpiC CNCA IL o6Ss "
lack of exercise. has set the muscles.
The young and eel-like figures of those
who can wear any kind of fashion car
always attempt these rounded pleats or
the hips and carry them off with a GER
tain degree Of grace; the woman who
is not sure Of her suppleness and who
has acquired curves on her hips had
better seek elsewhere for some kind Of
drapery that will bring her into the pic
ture of the hour.
There are umbrella folds Of material
which are used to distend the hip line
Immediately below the girdle, and these
flap about in a careless manner and
are not ungraceful even on woman
who has passed the first years of youth
They are attempted by our tailors and
dressmakers: the former put them on
coats. either at the hips or At the waist
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

q the season settles into its long
IN stride through the winter, the
Is "a observer of fashions finds that
there is still sufficient variety to suit
the minds of all the women.
Some things have become commended;
Others are on the outer rim. Women
are debating as to what they should &C
cept Wholesale houses have copied GER
tain outstanding features in such large
measure that they are spread like a
fungus growth over the continent.
Clothes are singularly like those we
have worn when one sees women in mass,
and yet, those of us who have been
studying the situation for months in Paris
woman of this winter to look like the
woman of last winter. If she accepts the
French fashions, she will not appear as
she has in recent years. IN Francois
the constant repetition of it in the news
papers, as well as by word of mouth,
the gulf of difference fixed between the
women of France and the women of
America, as shown in the streets of
Paris, was amusing. 1t was so vivid that
it even provoked arguments that APP
preached quarrels.
The two sets of women might have
come together from the poles There
was nothing in common between them.
Their features, Clothes, gestures and
viewpoint were totally dissimilar. This is
an old story, and the only reason for it's
repetition is that women persistently ask
at every turn if it is true that the
French clothes as worn by the Paris
women are utterly different from ours.
Do they wear short skirts, do they wear
three-inch sleeves, is it true they are
stockingless, and do they paint their
skin a brownish yellow? The answer is
that they do all of these things and the
Americans do none of them.
Over in Paris, the first of autumn,
everyone told US that American skirts
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

were getting much shorter. The surprise
was great. therefore, to walk up the
streets of New York later, and see wom-
en- in skirts that swept the instep, even
in tailored gowns.
The reaction is bound to come. Amer
icaa women do not LOOK well when 60
ing about their various Anglo-Saxon
activities in long skirts that impede their
walking and sweep up the dust There
is nothing clever about it, or attractive,
or sensible. Surely. the tailors will adopt
a compromise between the French and
the American skirt. 1t is the necessity
of the hour.
The feeling Of the prophets is that the
seven-inch skirt for the street may come
that women may continue to wear long
ones for the evening.
The topsy-turvy condition of the world
is reflected in the industry of dress,
when the American tailors talk of short
ening their skirts to meet the French
of frightening their skirts to meet the
American idea. Just here is where the
hope of good compromise lies.
NO ESTABLISHED WIDTH
1t is too early to predict what will act
rally be worn after Thanksgiving, for
in America. as in France, the masses do
not dominate fashions and smart women
do not buy their clothes early in the
season. The chaff is sifted from the
wheat in November, but until that time
a good deal of guessing goes on and a
vast amount of careless and indiscreet
buying.
If . woman buys clothes in Septem-
Der, she must be sufficient philosopher
to endure possible regret in November.
AS a rule, the early season definitely es-
length Of coats. but as far as the sea-
son has gone, neither of these ques-
tons has been settled.
1t may be that the American exhibi-
lions Of clothes have borrowed certain
something from the chaotic conditions
shown in the French houses. for it was
quite evident to the observer that many
styles were tried in order to please many
people.
It is always we'll for the trade and
good for the public when there is no
one ruling fashion or contour, for a
woman who then asks if she should buy
a wide skirt because it is in fashion.
can safely be advised to buy narrow
one II it suits her figure.
Tho one outstanding fact is that there
must be width between waist and knees.
The underskirt may be narrow, although
many advance frocks show it wide, but
the tunic must be full. Even SCheruit,
who clings to the long, slim redngote,
has put slight ripples into the hem OF
this garment, and the idea is followed
in America.
The redingote is still more distinctive
feature Of the new fashions in Paris as
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

The pleated skirts that Vionnet and
Renee make are peculiarly alike. They
are quite attractive on any figure There
is first a slim foundation, then panels
of knife pleating that are cut on the
bias at the lower edge, overlap each
other, and are flattened and stitched into
bias lines at the hips.
This idea of running bias lines across
the hips is exceedingly well patronized
by the dressmakers, although it may soon
be commended by the cheaper grade of
wholesale gowns. There were few houses
in Paris that did not adopt it in August
and the American tailors and dressmak-
ers have taken it up 1t is curious
contrast to the crinolined hips.
THE DISTENSION OF THE HIPS
So far there seems no intention on the
part of American women to adopt either
pads of crinoline on the hips or hoops
of whalebone. This fashion appears on
the stage and on the figures of profess
sional dancers; it may be adopted by
debutantes, but as fashion it is likely
to be incidental. 1t is inconvenient. 1t
is unsuitable for the majority of figures.
When it is well done and worn by the
right women, it has an old world charm
of coquetry, a delightful semblance of
frivolity and allurement that is bit
theatrical, but refreshing.
1t is quite safe to say that Lanvin's
black taffeta frocks with the ultra wide
be taken seriously in this country. Such
gowns have been brought here. but the
majority Of American women, especially
those who follow Lanvin, prefer her Ital-
ian renaissance gowns with their un-
usual and brilliantly embroidered sleeves
and floriated embroidery of leather or,
what is more extraordinary, their Flor
entine designs cut from gray sqsirrel
placed on black velveteen or duvetyn.
There is no intention on the part of
Americans, however to escape the Paris
fashion for hip distension. but they have
decided it must be done without the aid
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

in America than the tunic, or the knife
pleated skirt but the two latter gar
ments are far more popular than the
former.
The woman who wants to purchase
gown out of the ordinary gets a black
velvet redingote or one of embroidered
crepe or satin and ties it below the
waistline with a broad sash and large
bow at the left side. If she likes color,
she lines the sash with it. These red
ingotes are made like kimonos; they lap
widely across the front and are not fas-
tened. but merely tied in place by the
broad sash
As side companion to the redingote
there is the long coat that reaches to
the knees; it is already accepted, but
it is not yet dominant fashion. There
is short coat that ripples at the sides,
blouses at the back, and is loosely held
in place by silk cord that ties in
front
There are plenty of pleated skirts. Some
of them are in straight accordion pleats
from waist to hem.
LAC4O dlC CtilSlSJ ldSHlOHeu on an du-
mirable model by Chanel, which have
narrow, pleated ruffles that overlap each
other from hip to hem, and the plain hip
is covered by three pleated ruffles
which are attached to the edge of a
straight jacket that buttons to the chin.
This is one of the unusual suits of the
season. 1t is for the slim woman.
There are pleated skirts which are
modelled on those made by Renee and
Vionnet, brilliant new star in the gall
axy of the great in Paris, is the latter.
one who makes herself more exclusive
and conspicuous by not selling to
American commissioners who aims at
dressing the individual woman and
making it pay by having small estab-
lishment, and who asks extremely high
prices. She has already gotten an un-
usual set of woman in the American
colony in Paris
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Evening hats of brocade and tulle are
worn. One that attracted much attention
is made with a crown of dull GOLD anu
black brocade, and with band about it
of jet and pearl in lieu of brim-small
jet sequns embroidered on tulle, and big
pearls interspersed with the jet sequins.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Velvet visors are used on some good
little hats of velvet or brocade. They
are bit suggestive of the soldiers cap,
,s.6eHoof eua 10 sdpuled 10
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Evening gown
made by immense loops of ule.
the waisne the small waist and the hip dstenson formed
brela folds
On left onepece froc the of redngo with modified
pockets The embroidery
and the pockets lined with These made by
ketchd different methods
the hip dsnson without the halebon cnone
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26
FEW ESTABLISHED FEATURES
SHOP NOTES

Separate waistcoats of duvetyn are sold
for prices ranging up to SIS. They are
well made of good materials, and some
times have a little embroidery in self
color, or contrasting color, to add to
their attractiveness. They come in sew
eral colors, more of them in tan than in
any other shade, this goes well with
suits of almost any of the dark colors
used this year.
Feather hats are one of the distinctive
touches in the millinery of the autumn.
They are not new-for. indeed. this sum-
mer has shown many small feathers
toques and turbans. But they are, new
ertheless, attracting a good deal of att
tention. The newest ones are large hats,
all covered with feathers. Usually they
are Observation-Disclosures, that is, with
feathers, though sometimes velvet flowers
are used.
Gauntlet gloves are worn this year with
the wrist section puired over the cuff
of the suit coat. These gloves are high,
as prices used to go, but considering
prices of every other staple of dress
they are not bad, You can buy those or
kid for $3.50. Doeskin in good quality,
can be bought for S.
Monkey fur is used differently this sea-
son from the way it has been used
in other seasons. Perhaps that is why
it runs a good chance of going through
another successful season. 1t is used in
the form of fringe more than in any other
way. One of the smart new hats shows
a tassel of monkey fur fringe fastened
to the crown, of brocaded silk, hanging
at one side.
Ponpeiian red is new color this year,
or perhaps it would be more accurate
to say it is new name for an old color.
For it is really one of those good shades
of red that cannot be called new. AMI thet
are never very much worn, even when
they are favored as they are this season.
Anyway, 1t Is good color, warm and
clear, and far more likely to be generally
becoming than the terra Gotta shades OF
last season.
Velvet grapes trim one of the smart
frocks of blue serge. The grapes are
in natural colors of purple, ranging al
most from red to blue. They are made of
velvet, puffed out with stuffing of cot
ton, SO that they stand out in real
punches. They offer really effective
means of trimming, and now, when we
feel no objection to wearing fruit, they
ought to be used god deal
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26
Nv ANNE RITTENHoUsE

The widths of skirts is yet determined but the long
tnc the rengote and the threequarter coat have de-
cided fullness between hips and hem. The skirt with
the whaebone crnoine considered impractical for
the average American in ordinary life, but is
worn the stage.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Hip distenson is accepted 1t is arranged by of
drapery and pockets. Color schemes worked in
the lining of the drapery There is a tendency to
to the normal wastlne by dressmakers, but the
public has not made up its mind to accept it.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Cloth gown for the street
with Directoire revers
edged with red braid,
showing a, white chemi-
settle. The red belt is
touched with gold orna-
ments. The hip width is
given by flutings of the
material bound with
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Face wells made of fine net and mount
ed on wide collar of taffeta or satin,
which fastens snugly about the throat.
are sold to wear with small hats. These
wells keep their place admirably, and at
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Top coat of beige
colored cloth trim
med with immense
collar, cuffs and hip
drapery of otter.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-10-26

Amherst, Mass, has maple tree tho
branches Of which spread Is feet.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1919-04-11
Here Is a Good Gamble

We 1850 the best land Wyoming and after OIL The
Highland Boy Oil and Gas Company honest and reliable and industrious and TOR that
gamble before they struck oil and
will laid the golden We thru several hundred
feet rock and and absolutely striking OIL that what SO
440O Of the oil the people, denay
knowna suckTs
Facts That You Can Depend Upon
Before cents stock offered the public Highland Boy officials
had expended $34 100000 equipment development drills
by ppng the Of vaults the largest the United
eaPpd by mot Highland Boy Right the field fully equipped
and forge building especially fitted and qualified
injured machinery and the manufacture Original designs We haue
spared nothing and successful
and the dollar to pointof ductity and utility.
The Biggest Oil Company In the World
usof
brghtm whm hwbun
Boy WAT Has BEES 1oNE can RHPE what will High
Act Nou and Glue Your Dollars Chance to MAKE Good
FeaoAm
In he hwOl Corm6cu
hr~=tma in the 4cme coneay
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1919-10-18
Chamber Hears Of
Devil Dogs' Deeds

More than 500 members Of the
Chamber OF Commerce membership
council. at their weekly luncheon.
Friday. followed the United States
marines from Chateau Thicrry 10 the
Rhine. under the graphic leadership
Of Lieut. A. N. Park. chaplain Of the
drcadnought Wyoming. Of the Pa
cific fleet Chaplain Parks was with
the Fifth and Sixth regiments OF
devil dogs" thru five major battles
OF the American campaign. winning
the croix de- guerrc. the distinguished
service cross and the navy cross.
Prior 10 Chaplain Parks address
Capt y. s. GIN paid sterling trib
ute 10 the late Theodore Roosevelt.
Harry ". Powell. secretary OF wash.
ington state Rabbit Breeders assoc.
alton. made a talk on the future Of
the rabbit industry In the Northwest
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1919-10-18
u. S. Lawyer May
Defend w. Horn

FREDERICTON. N. H.. Oct. Is.--
Werner Horn. the German army Of.
flcer. held here for blowing up OF a
railway bridge In 1915, may be de-
Tended by the American lawyers
who took his case when he was be.
fore the United States courts on
the same charge.
DIR. III. Carlton Allen. deputy at
torncy general Of New Brunswick.
states that these lawyers. tho hav.
ing no status in the Canadian
courts. would probably be allowed
to defend him. as the courtesy OF
allowing United States lawyers TO
attend Canadian courts had always
been extended.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1919-10-18

HYDES. KY. October fss--To live.
or not to iive--anoshcr i3i ycarsg
That IL the question Uncle John
Shell. oldest man In tho world. In
turning over In his aged mind.
lie has been told that DR.. Serge
voronon at Paris claims he can
make old men young by tranrfusion
OF monkey glands.
Uncle John rather doubts II. Most
Of his ncighbors fail 10 take much
stock In the French scientists claim.
They say IL can't be done.
Il can nee" Uncle John said. how
a man can live long by taking tho
right kind Of care OF himself. I be-
iievc God intended human beings TO
live long. and II In all our fault II we
don't. But I don't believe God ever
intended that you could make an old
man young by shooting monkey
glands into him"
However. and only by way Of ex-
PLANTATION. Uncle John doubts the
possibility Of flying In AN airpiane.
lilo always has insisted that God
never intended human beings TO he
birds.
IF lie had wanted us to n.y." the
oldest man argued. ''iIc would have
put wings on us lihe he did on birds"
Still the only living man who In
i3i years Of age admits that he
would like to live another 13i. lie
points to his four year-old son as
good and sufficient reason for his
wanting to live awhile yet.
But what I can't understand"
Shell said. lis how monkey glands
can make n man young. Would ]
wake up the next morning looking
like a boy, feeling ms spry as n colt,
and have TO learn all over again7"
lie would rather stay old and keep
on getting older. This thing OF get
ting 30 young that he would have TO
go back to school and repeat the
tricks Of boyhood doesn't appeal so
strongly to him.
But I do believe that I'm going 70
live quite a few years yet. and with
out any monkey glands" he insists.
Let this Frcnchman try the monkey
glands on himself and IL they work
all right maybe may try them
when ! get good and old"
To Uncle John being 131 years old
isn't anything remarkable. The
really remarkable thing TO him In
that other people sdont live that
long. q
They would II they lived like I
do" he said. Live outdoors, don't
overdo eating. working. resting. play.
Ing and don't under-do 'em either.
Don't chase the dollars. Don't chase
anything; take 'em as they come"
What would you do IL you were
young again." That was the inter
viewers question.
How could l tcll?" the aged man
replied. II suppose would be as
much OF n boy M I was In George
Washington's day.
Say. do you really mean that
about this monkey gland business? p
he asked. II hear 30 many foolish
things. like folks flying across the
ocean, and talking no you can hear
It on the other side OF the world, that
half the time / don't believe them
yarns.
but II they ever got so smart
that they can make old people young
J again. would tell EN- not to wait