Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1919-07-20

Huenc0 on the lingerie OF autumn ana
winter.
1t 10 unwise to dismiss an entire
subject because part Of It is FAM
tastic. Anything that Is strangely
new draws attention to itself.
The modern Paris lingerie Is FAM
tastic to the point Of indecency and
sometimes monstrous in the eyes Of
those who love beauty. but it IL q
challenge to the established tradi-
lions Of lingerie throughout the
world. As such 1t has the. strongest
news importance.
1t should not surprise any American
to see that white muslin, lace, foot
Ing and flesh pink ribbon give place
to wolfe, taffeta, china silk and ALL
over lace lined with chiffon. And no
one must be surprised IL gray, scar
let, black, mauve. deep pink. dark
blue and green underclothes appear
over our horizon.
The French call them a step for.
ward in economy. What the Ameri-
can public will call them Is too early
to say.
The queerest part about them IL
that they appear after war is over,
when the raw materials of the world
have a chance to come back into tho
hands of civilians. The fine muslins
and cottons will soon be at our dis.
posal, and yet there is strong evil
dence that they will not be as widely
accepted as before
The old creed, commonly accepted
by fastidious women, that all lin
gerie should be fashioned by hand
and trimmed in delicate manner.
with the best of lace or cotton net.
passed out several years ago, along
with other creeds. The huge DEPART
ment shops had begun to flood the
continent with coarse white clothes,
machine stitched. Hand labor was
no longer available in the sewing
rooms and women who are supposed
to have leisure found that they had
none for the intricate and laborious
work demanded by fine underclothes.
Perhaps it was this that gave the
shops the chance to introduce crepe
de chine. georgette crepe and glove
SILK as q substitute for muslin and
handkerchief linen.
But the new lingerie which makes
Its appearance has nothing in com.
mon with even these simple substi-
tutes for muslin. 1t is not only fash.
Toned Of materials that have never
been worn under frocks and in colors
that have always been kept for out
side garments, but 1t is truly fam
tastic in cut and ornamentation.
The green mice and scarlet locomo-
tfves are the worst that has been
done, but it is quite common to SEQ
scarlet roses embroidered on a gray
wolfe chemise. and garlands Of green
leaves embroidered on flesh pink chit.
fon Knockers.
Nightgowns look like tea gowns.
Some Of them are Of navy blue chif-
fon or wolfe embroidered in silver
threads and girdled with silver belt
or cord. They may be worn in and
out Of bed. as one wishes. This lin
gerie comes in sets.
1t appears that women will return
to chemises. There is this short lit
tie shift which reaches to the knees.
Is ruf1ed or embroidered, and is gir-
died at the bust. 1t has shouldey
straps and no sleeves. Over it goes
an elastic or almost homeless corset
that reaches only two inches above
the waist line in order to give the
uncorseted effect. Over this 10 q
combination made Of Knockers and
corset cover.
Here fancy runs riot. The knickers
are shaped in unusual ways. They
pretend to be boomers. or petticoats,
or short Algerian skirts. They re-
fleet all the fashions that have been
worked out in the outside skirt.
You can see for yourself that BY
the side Of such underclothes the pale
pink glove silk or crepe de chine
garment looks anaemic.
1t will be interesting to see how
many Of the trousseaux OF the Oc-
tober brides will include this new
kind Of lingerie. At the present mo-
ment there are thousands who will
raise their hands in protest and say
that such underclothes will never,
never be accepted!
But that IL Z rash thing to say Of
any fashion.
Instead of Cold Cream.
MUTTON tallow. made by trying out
AVA the fat that comes with tho