davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

70 lie high color note that now
G 3m!3aleS-dress -Is Sei-y evident IN
"a III the bags for fall ard winter
NseV se- .Sombre wearables had their
a. during sad wartime; now woman
S uz;ng all the bright colors that she
can. ard if.fhese coiors are MOI Moor
porated. IN .ha: or fro"k hey sGreiy
appear in accessor, es of dTess--in UNI
b..ellas in neckHear bows. in bags and
so on.
one thing is eviden, in all the new
nandbfEs; the string or. ribbon handi"
run -thruugn shirred casing is en-
t.reiy out. All the best bags nave
frames and veFy gorgeous are>sorne OF
these frames; especially on the bags
intended for use with dress-up frocks.
There are carved nj atal fram and
frames of imitation ivory of shell and
amber and OF. silver. Many of the meta.
frames are heavily incrusted with brill
liants or with coiored stones, and shell
and ivory frames haze bea utifui inlays
of silver or gold. The pierced frame
is still used though 1t Is not quite as
distinguished as the unpierced frame.
and the reason for this Is Apparent
anybody can make bag with enough
SILK and "A pierced frame-it is so
easy to sew bag 10 frame. But tine
unp!erced frame has to be mounted
on the fabric by I. jcweier and natural
ly such bags are more expensive ana
therefore more distinctive. ~
Bags for daytime use are of gen
erous size though, the wide shell or
amber frames make them very -iighi
TO carry. Bags for evening and res
taurant use are smaller and the shape
IS rounded or fiat" rather than long
and slender. Many of the Paris bags
show appliques of leather. set under
the bag fabric of silk or brocade and
fastened In place by rows OF stitching;
indeed stitching In rows. in whirls. in
curleycues and IN geometricai figures
IS an especially smart trimming for
gs this season. A very good looking
bag from Paris Is of dark blue faille
silk mounted on a frame OF white
Imitation ivory the handle made OF
dark blue faflie ribbon. Rows of heavy
white silk stitching In broad striped
effect run up and down the bag. An
other French bag. of old blue suede
has ruffies fiaring out at either SIDE
in a quaint pannier effect and these
rufies are scalloped. rows of black silk
stitching following the undulations OF
the scallops. This bag has a covered
frahne with jeweled clasp. Still anoth-
sr Partisan bag Is made of tan suede
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20


iaina Bile. The street coat OF keranil
has particularly stunning cape collar
Of ringtaiI opossum and you may guess
that such a dist .nguished collar would
never be put on any garment that do
not admit itself 10 be high in fashion
favor. THIS coat has the straight. fiA
| line at back and front and the full
ness ct e'thrr side that fashion &c
crees this season.
Fur Fabrics Come In Ct.'ss-s va
Some of the fur fabi ics arc to be
| had in soft. pleasing 1eu'ral tones tx
/ iaupe, smoke gray. eggplant gray an
ne ike. Aad one may even obtair
4 more decided co.ors. II a wrap tC
match certain frork Is desired. These
colored plushes pressed in-o fir pa.
/ tern lack the distinction Of keram
which so nearly approaches rea'
/ roadfaiI in its rich biack1ess or OF
mass beaver which is 50 Ike genuine
Beaver What at little distance IT L
I hard TO tell the diffe -e1"e. i;ri tho
roio-ed fur fabrics are fixed for rim
! ming purposes. for evening wraps and
especially sor childre1s l!ttie coats.
J The seal piu<hes are part'cs ,aTly good
I for children's wraps. a very srpnri
iitiit tOdt Ot seal p uSD III ing fitH
! seal colcring has cuffs. ctnn collar and
I ball buttons OF white coney fur and
there is hat to match the rounded
crown OF seal plush and he rolled
up brim Of " hi;e coney. Another cun-
ming little coat is OF white broadcio:h b
with collar. cuffs buttons and deep
trimming band around the edge of
mass beaver. The cap has a melon
.f 81, . ~ 70
brim of white coney almost eclipsing
the eyes. Both OF these coats are so
short that they escape the knees by
several inches and no petiicoats are
visible below the coat.edge. White
kid legg- -ngs cover the little legs clear
above the knee. the very short coat
falling over the top of the Logging,
Why Peltry Is So Scarce
There WAS very li;tle trapping OF
fur-Dearing animals during tne war
and. or course, Russia was out OF IL. as
far as far exports went Labor fol
preparing furs for the market has
been scarce as in all other lines OF
business: and the difficulty and often
the impossibility of shipping furs has
added to the bad situation But nov
the makers of fur coats and wraps are
AlldA AllG A-S- 'f-N-'
the women themselves; that the de
mand for lavish fur trimming on cos
tune has made fur for coats and 9th
er large garments very scarce and that
consequently such garments have risen
in price. The vogue OF small fur
wraps. of coates. OF sioies and so or
has also robbed the manufacturer oi
whole fur garments. In the old days
when a hundred dollars would buy
presentabIe fur coat. there were mo-
scores OF pretty little furry evening
jackets and coates and scarfs--aDd
bepocketed fur sport coats. One eth
er bought a fur wrap or fur neck
piece in those days, Neither did wom-
en- insist on fur trimming on frocks.
mats and even negiigees as they do
now Winter suits sometimes had pip
inss Of fur and little fur collars; but
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20
~leUer limitations OF Genuine Peh, r t7ird Foucr
With Particu ar Wonen-Eecess.re w Useof
Fur Trimming Has Nj oee Peltry Scarce
and Eepensii,e-F,t Fubrlc Wraps.

@HE war hss done strange things
with fabrics. Materials thai were
~ beloved before the war and which
Sare almost Impossible 20 get now
aase been initiated so cleveriy n sub
stitutes" that the substitutes have
completely won over femiE.n.ty by
their beauty of texture and real ele-
gance of quality. Fur IS one of the
things that has been most cleverly re-
produced with woven threads; and so
admirable-so really beaEtlful-are re
many of these fur substitutes That
hey have won their way into the ex-
elusive class of dressers. Eve years
lgo a certain .gnom.ny attached IL
elf to a real plush coaf--bui tha; wa<
he time when real seal coats could he
lad at q reasonable price and near
.e.l coats tmade or actual though
lumble furD were going at Fifty and
.ixfy dollars. NOW when .&o hun
ired dollars will not buy really
handsome fur coat the fastd.ous wom-
IN who has I Ave hundred or a
thousand dollar to spend fo= a winter
wrap. prefers to invest in graceful
good looking garment OF high class fur
fabric Instead Of making the best Of a
cheap sort of coat OF second rate
real fur"
Kerami Used For Stunning Wraps
One of the most distinguished of the
new fur fabrics is kerani.--or keratni
Persica II you choose 10 give II ITS
full name The texture is very like
that OF almost priceless broadtaii. Tne
lights aud shadows have the same rich
gloss and the material drapes even
more gracefully than genuine broad
tail And a wrap OF kerami. irimmeo
with genuine fur has nothing cheap
about Its suggestion. 1t liz wrap OF
distinction and one pays a substantial.
price for it-cul;e enough to satisfy
ally woman who rates clothes BY what
they cost in dollars and cents. But
kerEmi coats are not prohib.tive to
women outside the millionaire class
rs genuine broadtail coats are 1ast
now.
Three stunning wraps OF kerami are
pictured. One is jaunty Jacket OF
the hip-length type that Is preferred
by younger women this season. A cap
ivating little jacket II is you'il admit
with Its graceful draped sleeve ending
in wide cuff; It's long roll collar: It's
little waistcoat--and It's slanting pock-
cts to tuck the fingertips in. The big
collar may be reversed and crossed
over the waistcoat In doubie-breasi ed
fashion. and the back of It turned up
about the neck. on a very cold day.
Worn with a frock OF draped satin
and one Of those little walking hats
with q pale tan feather curling back
over the crown, the lustrous black
kerami Jacket is good looking enough
for anybody At any rate these fur
fabric coats are "the thing" now and
are accepted by the elect not as infits-
flen fur, but as garments made OF
new and desirable material. One OF
the long wraps is intended for after
necn and street wear and the other is
rrankiy a dress wrap-for Limousine
wear. The latter wrap. OF black ke-
razni. has new stuffed bolster" col
laP Of Australian opossum, which has
hsnems . very smart trimming iur
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

6erwear. and smart linen sport biouses,
Bur as for furs: There seems no an
swtr 70 the problem except TO pay
appalling prices for genuine peltry or
10 accept the very agreeable and salts
factory fur fabrics that fashion has
already sealed with her approval.
A Wat,cau Coat LII Bcayer i'iusi,
Very suggestive of the Louis XVl
period is the pictured coat OF iceteS
beaver; with Its deep. kingly collar. IT.
broad Watteau pleat down the back.
and its sleeves with inserted puffs at
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

the elbow. The plumed hat carries
out the effect also. Many of the new
autumn coats have tiers of founces
like this and the middle founce has
the most nare. giving the new sill
houette--wide at the hip. The Wat
teau plea, at the back Keeps, the line
there perfectly straight and fiat. No
fare or bulge is permitted at the back
of tn= silhouette: only at the sides Is
,ha hout.an; effect apparent.
saother wrap of maas beaver. pic
tured today. has great distinction.
There is a deep square yoke OF seal
skim with a fare collar faced with
Australian opossum. This copar may
be worn as the illustration suggests,
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

and lining of red silk; beautiful
bag of black and white striped satin
has frame of silver set with tur-
quoise and the lining is turquoise
blue satin. Velvet is a favorite' bag
material, though the first bags for
autumn are OF failie. brocade or taft
feta. These silk bags. however, do not
look so well. once winter weather sets
in. Then the silk bag is reserved for
evening and theatre use and the street
bag is made of velvet or of long
mapped satin-.a new and stunning
bag material.
The eight bags pictured show how
bag surfaces are broken these days
by tucks. pleass. shirring, cording or
some other device, very seldom is a
bag perfectly plain from frame TO low
er edge; and then only when the ma
teria1 is 81 handsome in itself that It
V pity to break 1t up BY cross trim
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

OF turned down fiat on the lhoulder4
the opossum forming revsrs at IL
front over a panel of the seal that eH'
tends down from the front Of the'yokes
Linings in these new fur fabric wraps
have distinction that proves the high
regard in which these fur substitutes
are held. Rich brocades and son
satins in charming coiors are put int
the Innings and such wrap makes =
wonderful background. thrown over .
chairback behind Its wearer in theatre
or restaurant. To match the wraps
there are charming toaues and caps ef
the fur fabric, trimmed with giittering
metal leaves and flowers or small ne
taiIic ornaments
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

carved shell and the handle OF knotted
cord. This cord and the heavy SILK
tassel hanging from the bag are In the
tete de negre shade of the velvet bag
The lining is Dale pink satin.
AT the left is a fascinating little
restaurant bag shaped like a Vatican
basket. II is an ordinary. rather deep
bag of satin and the basket shape Is
made by shirring in the lower portion
and adding a circular piece of fabric
for the bottom of the basket. The
frame is of carved shell. On the right
is a dainty litt'S theatre bag made
of pink and ro color silk brocade
with a lining of pink satin. The frame
is of smoke gray shell with a carved
metal wreath ornament and the chain
handle Is silver
The other illustration shows some
very practical bags with pierced
frames; the sort you can copy for
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

pierced metal and the chain Is metal
also.
In the center Is large bag which
will hold a number OF things yet the
bag is not heavy because the massive
frame is of amber. Grass green satin
was used for the bag and the fringe
and silk tassel match In shade. The
handle is made Of the green satin
roped ard braided to form d chain.
and the bag is lined with pale ycl.
low satin ..
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

coats and oversk rts helsily banded
.th fur were Gnknoy-i. No wondeT
the poor iEr Coz. E4.skers compiaiu
tha, there is no longer enough peItrJ
10 go rot I'D! .. least 10 fall 'c
their share, Ard there is no hope ,ha .
:he government can release fur" az
i did linen and lie T'hcr after tine war
ended. fer the Government used fu,
= no such alIntiiies = i did iin.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

md leather during war days. In fact.
ur was no war-nesessiiy as linen and
'ather were Now n Ions Of boots
and thousands Of saddles and belts
re no longer necessary. and lea lher
) es'ored 70 general use. Now linen
:, not needed for hospitals and fer
he wings OF ngntlng planes. ana Won.
a may again satisfy her taste for fne
ibis damaak and lnxuriois linen IN
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

with underla.d sections Of blue rnoroc-
co. stitching in blue follows all
around The Gnderlaid pattern. tt
Black and white b1gs are i'm nrensely
smart for day use and here color ar;
pears in the lining and IN the frames.
A stunning bag of black velvet and
white satin has a frame ofre enatne!
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1919-09-20

mings One of the velvet bags pic
tured is an example of th-s--the center
bag in the smaller illustration. This
bag is made of tete de negre velye,
appliqucd with coral coloreo ribbon n
flower and lattice pattern. the RIB
bon embroidered 10 ths velvet with a
close feather stitch. The frame is Of
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
THE UNNECESSARY CHANGE
IN SCHOOL BOOKS

Why the Governor did not set up
such a howl as the State has never
heard in an effort to prevent so gen.
eral change of school books this year.
it is impossible to comprehend. ihe
Governor at least has, or should have
some influence in a matter OF sucn
Importance to all the people OIL the
State, and why the people are going
to be forced to buy new BOOKS losine'
in all cases, more than half in the ex'
change prices, and in some cases al
they paid for other books, is a ratner
mystifying piece of business 10 one
who reflects upon conditions as thes
are. II there ever was period when
parents and guardians should nave
been shown consideration in expenses
1t is now, while the country is Trying
to readiust inflated prices due 70
war. It seems to US that our ehiielei
could get along at least year OF IVY
without a change in textbooks. pc
sides, a member of the sub-commiS
sion on selection Of textbooks ha' =
come out with declaration that all
the board, of which the Governor an
the State superintendent ana osne
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
WANTS MOVING PICTURES OF
FLORIDA FRUIT INDUSTRY

Jacksonville, Fla, Sept. 3.-Con'
gressman Frank Clark of Gainesville
would place the Florida citrus fruit
industry before the consumers OF the
United States by means OF moving
pictures. In a letter to Secretary
Houston Of the Department of Agri-
culture he says:
My dear Mr.. Secretary: notice in
the last issue Of the Farmers Weekly
Bulletin published by the department
a statement that the department has
lately put out film showing Cali
fornia fruits and that this film Is be
ing exhibited at moving picture shows
throughout the country.
"Now I have not the slightest Oh
lection to the Department of Agricul
ture thus advertising the fruits ant
other products of California, provid
| ing always that the department will
also give the state Of Florida exactl.
the same opportunity to get her fruit
and other products before the Amerl
can people in the same manner ant
to the same extent. l will appreciate
IT if YOU will advise me what 1t is nee
lessary for Florida to do in order t
get the benefit of this splendid advel
|tising. / am very sure that our pee
ple will be pleased to meet the sam
requirements which were exacted Q
the people of California, and wi
thank YOU to advise me fully in tn
premises at your early convenience
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
Cats APPOINTS HIS
SON TO OFFICE OF
AOJUTANT. GENERAL

A dispatch from Tallahassee states
that Governor Cats has appointed
his son, Sidney J. Cats, Jr. to the
Adjutant-General of the State, to sue
ceed James McCants, who resigned
that office, effective yesterday.
Young Cats was recently mustered
out of the army, in which he held
the rank of Lieutenant.
The position Of Acknowledgement
pays $3,500 a year.
Commenting on this appointment,
the Tribune of this morning says:
The resignation Of Adjutant-Gener
al McCants last week came on the
heels of his unsuccessful mission tc
Washington and New York in an ef
fort to bring the striking phosphate
miners and the mineowners to a set
tlement of their differences. 1t has
been stated by Major McCants tha
J he is confident he could have secured
an adjustment had the governor no
meddled in the matter and If the gov
ernor had not broken his word, giver
Major McCants, that he would sta!
away from the strike zone. MaJo
McCants was made adjutantgenera
last June, when the governor request
ed the resignation Of Adjutant-Genef
al Christian, who was given the offlc
by Governor Cats soon after the lat
ter was inaugurated, although Adjt
Gen. J. c. r. Foster, who had file
the Office satisfactorily for severa
terms had gone before the people an
received endorsement for the Office
The office, an appointive one, ha
been filed by primary choice for se'
eral terms, just as other appointiv
offices have been filled throughor
the state for many years, agoverno
lup to Cats time, rarely failing
carry out the thus expressed will {
) the party. The appointment Of Lie
tenant Cats by his father thus make
, him the fourth acknowledgement sint
the present governor assumed offic
January /, 1917.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
TO0 MUCH HUMPHREYS AND
NOT ENOUGH SURRENCy
LOST GAME YESTERDAY

Lakeland--R struck out; Wick
er flied To center; Love out, Martin to
Blunt. No hits, no runs.
Fifth Inning
Humphries flied to Poland; Will
liams beat out all infleld hit; Leon
out. Love to Morris. Williams going
to sccond Schuyler grounded to Nor
ris. l hit; no runs.
Lakeland-Poland flied to Moore;
Thrasher lifted to Williams; Smith
out, HUMPHREYS to Blunt. No hits;
no runs.
Sixth Inning
Orlando---Moore tripled TO deep
left; Blunt out, Love to Morrin; Mar
tin out. Love to Morris; Stevens out.
Love to Morris. / hit; no runs.
Lakeland-Morris safe on Blunt's
error; Wright forced Morris. Leon to
Martin; Surrency forced Wright Mar
tin to Leon; Riva fled to Williams
No hits; no runs.
Seventh Inning
Orlando-Quinn struck out; Hum
phries also famed; Williams fouled
to Thrasher. No hits; no runs.
Lakeland-Wicker flied to Viii.
liams: Love rolled out to Blunt: Po.
land out, Stevens to Blunt. No hits
no runs.
Eighth Inning
Orlando-Leon singled over third
Schuyler safe on overthrow to first
Leon going to third and Schuyler II
second; Moore singled over third
scoring Leon and Schuyler Blum
lined to Wicker; Martin safe on Sur
rency's error and on an attempted
double steal Moore was out at tn
plate. Wright to. Love to Wright
Stevens safe on fielder's choice Sur
rency playing for third with tw'
down, Martin gets safely back tt
second; Quinn safe on Surrency's er
orr; Humphries flied to Love. 2 hits
2 runs.
Lakeland d-Thrasher singled to cen
ter; Smith singled to center but wa
out at second trying to stretch int
double. Thrasher out at the plate b
five feet trying to score on play 10
Smith; Morris singled to left; Wrigll
flied to Williams. 3 hits no runs.
Ninth Inning
Williams out, Leon I
Blunt; Leon singled over third
Schuyler flied to Love; Moore sin
gled to center; Blunt fouled t
Wright. 2 hits; no runs.
Lakeland-Ery batting for Surrenc
struck out; Riva singled to left
Wicker out, Leon to Blunt. Riva &C
ing to second: Love flied to Williams
/ hit; no runs.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
SPECTRE FLEET HAS
SERVED ITS PURPOSE

London, Sept. 3.-A spectre fleet
Of more than one hundred warships,
nonedscript miscellany of large and
small craft, some worn out through
long years of prosaic patrol duty, 9TH
ers prematurely aged by encounters
with enemy submarines or participa-
tion in such engagements as Jutland
or the Dardenelles, is today anchored
in the river Medway.
This jetsam Of the war, floating
museum Of naval junk, swings at Its
last mooring- abandoned, unwanted.
Ships that were heroes amid ships
that never did anything but dog
work" ride the tidal river currents
side by side-miles of forlorn rusty
ghosts Some were built in feverish
haste to meet emergencies during the
war; some were constructed In peace
time leisure, but now they are all
superfluous.
There Ii the Sappho whose machin-
ery balked and cheated her Of glor-
ious and alongside the vindictive,
sunk as o submarine barrier at the
Zeebrugge mole; there are "blistered'
cruisers, samples Of British naval con-
structors' ingenuity, built to stay
afloat and in fighting trim despite tor
pedoes and mines; battleships mast
less, gunless, useless shorn Of their
I fittings for service as isolation hos
pitals; the Inhexible, which fought at
the Falklands, was mined at the Dar-
danelles and survived the battle of
} Jutland.
This spectre feet, slated for the
: salvage heap, still rides salt fight
, hg' water, but its days Of blue water
} are past. An ebbing tide Of war has
j, left it as marker in graveyard oi
the sea.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
VET WHO ISN'T GOING TO
RIDE ON THE TRAIN

Atlanta, Ca, Sept. 3.-Who says the
Confederate veteran isn't as spry as
any youth Of twenty?
Take, for instance, Colonel Jack
Hale, who, at the age of "a, says he
will walk from his home In Ada, Ok
lahoma, to the Confederate reunion
in Atlanta, distance of nearly 500
miles.
Colonel Hale is one of the delegates
from Joe Shelby camp of veterans at
Chicas, Okla, to the national reunion.
The Tulsa Daily World says Of his
proposed performances:
Colonel Hale declares he will leave
Ada on the evnning of August 2S, the
closing day of the state reunion. He
plans to go via Little Rock, Memphis,
Chattanooga and thence on to Attain
ia, and en- route will visit several
scenes where battles were fought be-
tween the blue and the gray. The
veteran expects to be on the road
| four weeks.
Despite the fact that Colonel Hale
is IA years of age, he is active. He
resides on a farm near Chicasaw and
takes an active part in its manage
ment. 'T am sure | can make the
trip without exhausting myself ply
sically," declared Colonel Hale. I'll
invited, win accept rides from an
tomobiles, but I'm not going to xide
one mile on the railroads, he added.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1919-09-03
GRAPEFRUIT MOVING
FROM ISLE OF PINES
New York acker.)

Havana, Cuba, Sept. 3.-In a re-
cent issue the News says that ship
ments of grapefruit from the Isle OF
Pines to the northern markets have
already begun and this week will see
several carloads going North to O
good market. Reports received from
the Isle of Pines state that this week
all of the Is large packing houses on
the island will be working. while 9
good many are doing their own pack
ing at home preparing fruit for the
markets.
The fruit on the Isle of Pines is rip
ening beautifully this year, the sea
son for growing having been perfec
good weather, just enough rain, ant
no storms.