Evening star., 1919-03-23
or New Fashions for Early Spring DAYS.?
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

By ANNE R1TTENHOUSE.
might be said that the French
frocks show novelties more than
novelty. Few of the gowns are
commonplace. Each and all Of
them show surprising features.
They introduce old ideas, but these
are wrapped up In new coverings
They are sugar coated pills In some
cases. One thing is quite true-that
peace shows the same wide range of
styles that prevailed during war. 1t
was thought by the observers who
watched fashions following in the
footsteps Of political events that the
designers would combine on some un-
usual ands possibly. an eccentric type
OF dress. Those who study fashions
and those who buy and sell them have
stood on tiptoe since the first of Feb
ruary so that they might be better
enabled to see the shadow Of coming
events lengthening itself over the
horizon.
AS far as the French exhibitions are
concerned, no unusual or eccentric
style of dress has been launched that
would Indicate general movement
toward something new. 1t is quite
evident to the buyers and the writer's
that there has been little consultation
among the designers of Paris as to
the introduction of\ decided new
movement in apparel. This was what
was expected; this has not happened
1t may be that we look back upon
history--that Is. the history of ap-
see the monthly changes and In
dividual variations that happened at
that time. We look back upon it now
as from an airplane. not seeing much
features. Possibly during the epochs
which we consider as supreme In
dress movements here was the same
uncertainty Of line. the same lack of
In the new clothes which the prophets
thought would proclaim a significant
change in womens apparel.
Mind you. there Is no lack of sensa-
tionalism in the new clothes. They
fairly reek with the kind Of features
that attract attention. encourage
crlticiem, bring out protest. But, as "A
whole the effort reminds one Of "a
grab bag at church fair. You pay
money. put your hand into a mass Of
things. and bring out something new
or old, wrapped up in covering that
disguises Its outline. All the French
designers seem to have cast all the
apparel ideas of the world. good and
bad, new and old. into the grab bag
for spring.
The last people to complain Of this
situation are the importers, and the
American shops and dressmakers. II
others that they desire in fashion 1t is
lack of coordination among design
ers. You can reason out this situation
from the standpoint of common sense.
just one style of apparel and America
indorses and follows it. that vast net
work of industry in this country
which Is formed by the selling and
buying of Women's clothes findsAtself
weakened through a lack of variety
IT has nothing to offer but fashion
the slim and the stout, the married
and single, the demure and the brazen
are each and all offered the same type
Of costume. Interest. therefore, lags
in clothes: commerce is weakened;
buying falls OFF
On the other hand. when there is no
coordination among the designers,
when individualism is rampant, va
riety is the catchword of the season.
No shop can lay down the law by say
ing to its customers: "This, madam,
and this alone, is the new thing"
When shop can say that there are
Hfty new gowns. each of which stands
alone In originality and brilliancy,
then the shop has a slogan that calls
In the crowd When one feature stands
out conspicuously as the sole and
dominating feature OF the season it
can be reckoned on that a thousand
women will be disgusted with 1t and
insist that such caprice Is not for
them.
The shopkeeper sees his patrons
turn sadly away from the things they
VIII not wear But when SHORT and
long Jackets. short and long skirts,
surp!ice fronts and straight lines from
shoulder to hip, panels and no panels,
Hounces or hens. embroidery or braid,
are each offered as equal In importance
In the fashion. then the public smiles
and warns itself into enthusiasm for
clothes. 4.
1t. is easy to go behind the American
condition to that OF the French de-
signers. They need money-oh. how
they. do need money! They are not
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