The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-10-19
PARIS DECIDES FOR LONGER SKIRTS AND HIGHER COLA
Good and Bad Features Mingle in Most
Important Fashion Exhibit Sincel9l4
High Prices Controlling Factor

Chantilly lace. There was a narrow
belt of the satin. She called it lie
Mienne."
A combination of black satin and
dull silver lace made an excellent
American gown called bridge" odd
that so many American names havs
crept into the collection this season
Bridge" for instance, which is the
popular indoor pastime of Amer
lean women, Is a popular name here
for gowns, also Indiana" and Flor
ida" There are so many "Indianas"
that one suspects the boys of that
regiment of leaving some sentimental
memories among the attractive man
nequins.
But back to bridge" which is
worth describing. The under slip Is
narrow and not too short; It extends
to the bust, and over 1t is tunic Of
furnished silver lace with a design
worked out in bright lace. Below the
edge OF the tunic. on the satin slip,
is an elaborate design in embroidered
silver leaves done in silver and gray
silk and threads. The tunio has a
pointed bodice in front. high at the
back, and a fiat band at the waist line
to which the lower part is attached in
middle of back and front with large
round pleats at the sides to give
dimension.
The cloth frocks, especially those in
bright colored stripes on beige or gray
background, are girlish and only suit
able for slim figures, but their dashing
irregularity can be copied in plain fab
RIGS for other types of women. Blue
serge, by the way, is so frequently
used along with black taffeta that one
feels the market for fabrics is show
ing the non-production OF war time.
There is one gown called "touriste"
that is quite attractive, with a green
ana blue stripe on a deep cafe au lait
background. The skirt is laid in group
ings of machine pleating cut on the
bias at the hem. each two groups over
tapping. The waist is narrow and
slightly long wasted, with an i'm
mense eighteenth century collar OF
seal.
Leather Featured at Many Houses.
Martial ct Armand was the first
house to show leather ornamentation
as well as leather frocks and suits,
but nearly all the houses give kid a
trial. 1t comes in with the early
Italian movement in clothes, and the
F'lorentine design with Its graceful
scrolls makes a really admirable meth
cd of covering the surface of gowns
and wraps. One house uses the design
III gray squirrel on velvet wrap in a
most effective manner. All that type
of Italian work is revived, and leather
is only one Of the manifestations OF
it. Worth avoids it: it does not go
with his methods of handling mate
rial.
Worth makes a large number of
tailored suits this season, not espe-
cially noteworthy, hut wearable, miss
ing the brilliant effect of the suits by
Lanvin or the well cut simplicity OF
those by Bernard. All the houses
show much the same idea in tailored
suits, SO that one feels it is not puz-
cling choice to make between the
houses II one wants to buy. There Is
the knee length coat with its fare
from the hips at the sides and it's
moderately wide and long hem, the
high collar of cloth or peltry, the long
sleeves with more or less exagger-
atedly wide cuffs. That is the move
ment, repeated and repeated, even II
diversified.
The high note at this house is
reached in black velvet evening gowns
and metallic and satin tea gowns.
One black gown, called "derniere
heure," has all the Worth distinction
which makes him a creator for a cer-
tain type Of dlgnified woman and puts
him above every one else in that line.
The skirt is somewhat short in front,
long in the back. with a small square
train. with series of loops at one side
below the waist line and on the other
wide bow standing straight out from
the hip; this arrangement is in defer.
ence to the fashion for hip distension.
There is a large wheel OF blue beads
high on one hip and low on the other.
The bodice is merely a straight piece
of velvet. going under the arms and
held up with two shoulder straps.
The other black velvet gown has a
more decorative bodice with V
shaped point in front of the rhine
stones for which the house is famous,
and shoulder straps OF bright blue
beads which drop below the waist in
the back with dangling ends of rhine
stones. 1t is called "le courtisan. "
The most striking of the day frocks is