davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-10-12

One OF the mannequins with Jean
Patou wears golden ringlets over her
ears that fall on her neck, and when
mannoquins start fashions they are
very apt to become accepted by the
populace. Jean Patou, by the way
is one OF the lesser known new French
houses. like Charlotte and Germainc
and Viennot, who cater TO the ex-
elusive European women and to whom
the American buyers go for gowns
which they hope will not be widely
commercialized.
The life of the average French model
is short in the sartorial world of Amer
lea. The houses clear them out in
about a month, and then there is a
search for something different. 1t is
to these houses that the smart French
women go for clothes that are different
from the models sold in such large
quantities by the famous houses to
shc American trade. 1t is said that
The sun., 1919-10-12

for bare legs to the young and slim
and to the beaches and mountains,
there is little to be said against 1t. IN
fortunately, the Paris women have
introduced ii at dances and supper
tables. The new copper colored pow
der, however, that bronzes the leg, tho
longer skirts, and the broad copper
colored satin ribbons that wind around
the legs, serve to lessen any shocking
effect of-bareness.
Harness for Bodice.
At the house OF Jenny the evening
gowns were especially like those fea-
tured at Deauville. They caused a sem
sation among the American women
who had not been in Paris since the
armistice. One evening gown Of satin
had 4 bodice made from two bibs, one
in front, one in the back. These were
caught together by slim chains under
the arms and over the shoulder. The
bib in the back missed meeting tho
skirt hand by about fivc inches and 1t
was entirely framed by tho bare back.
AS the manncquin moved. the bibs
Of satin also moved and one could sec
flashes OF the golden skin at all tho
placea where one usually places fab
ric, There was another gown which
had no back whatever, a square bib in
the front which was held up by a har-
ness OF colored. crystals. There was a
lattice work of these crystals across
tho back as part of tho harness.
Another gown had about four inches
OF tull1 at the back and about eight
inches of it in front and the manne-
quin wore a diamond necklace around
her body below the shoulder. bl des,
Still another evening gown had rather
| high bodice in front, mere g,rdle at
the back and a harness of scarlet and
black satin ribbon tnat came over the
shoulder. extended down the back and
| wrapped once around the arms. Such
| fashions are only for the slim. If
they were worn by the stout a woman
would appear like queen of the
| harom. There Is one exceptionally
| good idoa in Jenny's new bodices for
| the conservative woman. IL Is the
| fragile chain OF crystals that runs
across the shoulders at the back and
holds the bodice drapery in its place on
top OF the shoulder.
All gowns are sleeveless and. as
every woman knows, there is a strug-
| gle TO keep the small shoulder straps
OF such evening gowns In place. II
one dances the shoulders OF an evening
frock are constantly falling downward
| over the arm, and even at dinner
parties the slightest movement of the
body Is apt to bring down the shoulder
of the decollete gown. Few women
and few dressmakers k1,-c been table
TO remedy this ugly tryek, Jenny
remedies 1t in one stroke by holding
the two pieces together by the thin
chain of jewels that stretches across
the back and sinks into the flesh. One
of her most frequently repeated tricks
is to run a colorful strand of beads
across the top of the shoulder line at
tho hack and from Tie middle of this
strand, right at the bone at the nape
Of the neck, she drops another strand
Of the same beads that hangs to the
LON Of the skirt. If nnc notices small
tricks in fashion tho tendency to put
floating ribbons somewhere In the back
Of q costume Is everywhere observed.
Lanvin uses immense separate col
lars Of moufflon and Mongolie on her
tailored suits, which are tied at their
The sun., 1919-10-12

viennot will not make a gown for you
unless she likes your face. She is en-
tirely Independent of any especial per-
sons patronage, it would seem. She
Is like a portrait painter or a sculptor.
She says that she does not care to put
clothes on certain types of women and
that she likes to dress only the women
who recommend themselves to her
through some especial charm. Jean
Patou is not so difficult to please, but
he caters to an exclusive trade. He
never accentuates the mode. He does
not depart from 1t in a startling man
ner, but he modifies and moulds it to
suit the women who have the old
adage in their minds not to be the first
to accept the fashion nor the last to
give it up.
Wider, Longer Skirts Appear.
When a house Of strength announces
its intention to emphasize skirts cut
with several cores there is tumult and
confusion in the world of trade. 1t is
all very we'll for the American buyers
to insist that the American women do
flOI WANT tHtSe CAlTd lull Dut
the American women want to make up
their minds after they have seen
everything that Paris offers. So the
gored skirt goes along with the widely
ruffied one by Lanvin, the ripping
short one by Jenny, the godet tunic by
Martial and Armand which initiates a
full skirt, the jabot skirt of Doucet
which shows cascades Of material at
the side. the draped skirt of Madeleine
with it's soft butterfly drapery at the
end Of the spine. the Spanish skirt by
Poiret and Worth's skirt. with its short
front, long back and immense stiifened
loops on the right hip.
Surely this variety is enough TO
confuse world of women. Yet
until the end Of August the movement
of drapery in all these various skirts
was in certain direction; the OBJ
server felt that each house was work
ing out an individual method in a
general scheme and that it only de-
pended upon a buyers inclination as
to what method should be chosen.
Then came that actually wide skirt
fitted at the hips, faring toward the
difficult to cut, it is not easy to wear
Yet it is pronounced fashion. 1t may
be forerunner of what we will wear
in December. Last February, you re-
member, the skirt with crinoline on
the hips was introduced and not ac-
cepted by America. To-day its
silhouett" prevails in all the French
| collections, even though modified
The same fate may be in store for the
many gored skirt. 1t may be a sensa-
! tion to-day and an everyday fashion
: tomorrow. one thing Is true: a
| long full skirt and long full coat
combine to make the ugliest costume
in the annals of fashion. No woman
can adopt the suit and preserve rem
nant OF grace and youthfulness. II
the gored skirt is accepted it must be
as part of froCk and not a suit. The
skirts that go with knee length
jackets are wider than they have beer
for three years. Few Of the houses
of any importance continue to make
The sun., 1919-10-12

lower edge, at tho left shoulder, with
a small bow of double faced satin rib
hon which has streamers that hang
to the knees Other designers will put
n tiny bow in Natter blue or citron
yellow OF velvet ribbon at the back of
the evening bodice with ends that
drop to the knees. 1t is an old fash
ion that was in keeping with the small
curls pulled out over the temples.
Probably you remember that the
curls were called heart catchers and
the ribbons were called "Suivez moi,
jeune homme," That was in an age
when romance and sentimentalism
were accentuated. Few American
women like to wear floating ends of
ribbon on the street, but the curls
on the temples are an old story with
us. The milliners, to accentuate this
mid Victorian coiffure, are putting
long ringlets In their broad brimmed
hats. Hair and hat are sold together.
The sun., 1919-10-12
PATENT ANTICIPATIONS.

y FFICIALS of the Patent Office
" at Washington cite instances
wherein very curious anticipa-
tions have been brought up against
the granting of applications for GER
tain patents.
On one occasion there appeared at
the Patent Office Representative ir
Congress bearing a model of loci
invented, in all sincerity, by one OF
his constituents. 1t soon appeared that
this lock was an exact copy of one
used on a gate of ancient Thebes.
thousands of years before the birth OF
Christ.
Then, too. there was filed with the
Patent Office an application for
patent on a flower basket the con-
struction of which corresponds in de-
tail with the Scriptural description OF
the ark in which Moses was deposited
in the bulrushes.
The sun., 1919-10-12
PARIS, Oct. 2.
PARIS, Oct. 2.
THE collection of gowns shown by
houses large and small in Paris

THE collection of gowns shown by
houses large and small in Paris
creates a feeling of alarm
among the American buyers. What
VIII the American women accept? is
the hourly question. And it is really
important to know what the American
women will do.
During last winter we heard much
Of the extraordinary clothes wo. II by
the French as repetition of their
tertorial behavior after stupendous
wars. The Directoire period was re-
peated. This is an old story. Yet it
comes with the force of a hammer
blow between the eyes to the Ameri-
cans who observe these daring cos
tunes for the first time. 1t is one
thing to read about them. another to
see them. The dressmakers in Paris
did not hesitate at semi-nudity. They
emphasized it.
II the observer felt that the clothes
were an idle dream of the dress
makers, that feeling was altered when
the French women were seen at Dcau-
Vile and Biarritz going the dress
makers a bit better. During the week
Of the Grand Prix at Deauville there
were clothes worn by well known
women which have never been at
tempted since Barras was the die
tator at the Luxembourg palace. A
woman in his time was publicly hissed
on the boulevard for appearing in an
unlined tulle frock and there was q
woman of his encourage who appeared
in an opera box with no material above
her waist and the flesh covered with a
harness of diamonds.
These clothes virtually were dupli-
Gated at Deauville. That lovely spot
on the Normandy coast. where the
races arc held in August, proved to
he the trying out field for the fashions
which the Paris dressmakers have
been showing to the American buy
ers, and the unlined tulle gown and
the bodice made fron a loose harness
Of jewels was worn without kissing.
In that fact lies a difference between
the two periods after great war that
should cause the psychologist to go to
work. In Barras's time the women
The sun., 1919-10-12

baking VIII still sink. Those that float
this time may be kept separate from
both the floats in the first case and the
heavy ones in the second, since they
are superior to the former but in
ferior to the latter. They will be
found excellent for boiling. The three
grades of potatoes may be separated
from one pile of apparently choice
specimens.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19

cier capltalist-with those traits of ouic, understanding. ready sympathy and an unswerving directness which make such powerful appeal to the imagination or the voter which was verified in his case by his election as governor of this A heavy, rather thick set man. slow moving, of muscular strength, Gov ernor Kilby has the head of a philoso- pher and the fist of man who can fight
 In the course of a very charming (to me) and interesting conversation I had with Alabama's new governor during his visit to Birmingham recent . ", Governor kilby gave me a broad. yet sharply focused picture of what his plans and aims and ambitions are Tor his administration; and knowing. the governor as l do, fancy that they VIII be carried out because he has a pulldog-like tenacity for getting what he wants, and he has the will and the brains to carry out his ideas and ideals.
 Governor Kilby is delightfully."- hu- man man, with quick sense of humor. the modesty that characterizes the thinker and the man of business; al though he assures the 'interviewer' that his was only a common school
 
 vince the people of this state that he Is dabbler rather than scholar, for the most casual glance at the gov ernors head discloses the fact that it IS not an average head at all: the prominent forehead. the generous curve at the back. bespeak capacity and power; they also bespeak space sufficient to accommodate a coastins party of legorithms and a bunch of the most difficult questions in rhetoric.
 As dramatic human force, Gov ernor Kilby appeals to his friends as one of the most lovable and lkable of men. He has magnetism that seems almost cultivated, and yet when you know the man you know it is perfect ly natural and flows from sympa- thetic heart; he is 'all soul of bound- less sympathies" and the atmosphere or his personality belongs to the sunny climes of his native southland-bright. cheerful. eourteous-always to friend and foe alike with whom he comes in contact.
 Governor Kilby is genial to the point of being a splendid companion. for he likes companionship and makes it: he is born comrade and fond of the in- terchange of the wit and humor of the congenial dinner table; in fact, a typical southerner, Governor Kilby
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19

l some extent, but not with us in the south because of our Anglo Saxon
 population"
 | Will you mention any especial fea-
 lures that you will emphasize during
 your administration, such as prohibit
 tion, good roads, educat tion, sociological , work?' I asked.
 In going into the high office of gov ernor, which the good people of Ala bama have honored me by placing with ! in my care the affairs of the state,'' I said Governor Kilby, "I would like to say that, like any other business en- terprise, public or private, when the new administration takes charge and 1 sees defects that may be remedied | and evils that may be corrected, shall to the best of my ability en- deavor to correct. I shall develop whatever is possible to be developed of all our splendid resources and to make a clean, wholesome administra- tion, of which the state can be proud , In the first place, I desire to say that am happy to go into the office of governor at a time when it appears that we are to have prohibition that is real prohibition; of course. the laws will be enforced
 q desire to say that in my opinion
 
 veloped IS far as it is possible, es- pecially as to the upkeep of such roads as we may be able to build, as well as those already in existence. One of the weak points of our system has been lack of adequate provision for the maintenance of good roads; mill lions of dollars have been wasted pe- causa we have not kept up the roads which we have built: I shall make a recommendation for our eduea- tionai system. which is now patch- work I expect to recommend to the legislature a commission to make a survey of conditions. Another thing I hope the administration will adopt is an extension of the public health sys- tenn and bring it abreast of the times. up to the highest standards in accord ance with our financial ability taking advantage of the wonderful experI-N nients made by science and the medI- cal fraternity, which have proved their merit in the prevention of disease as well as it's communication. Also hope to lift the debt of the state Sd business enterprise finds itself eln. barrased when it changes hands so far Jas it can be adjusted the new management adjusts it. and just so the state must be looked upon and it's affairs adjusted.
 "Of course, one man cannot be eX- pected to accomplish all this without aid" said Governor Kilby, "and the men whom I appoint to office I am depending upon largely to assist me iii
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19

goes into the chair of the highest gift within the hearts of the people oi Alabama, an all round splendidlS equipped executive. socially, finan- cially and politically.
 Governor kilbys successful business career seems to have begun when he first went into business as railroad man. Having as a mere lad removed to 1 A tlanta later and received his educa tio n there he turned his eyes Alabama = ward. where in 1887 he took up his residence in the beautiful city of An | niston, and the first position he occu- pied was that of agent for the old Georgia Pacific railroad, now the l Southern railway, and he made good" | from the start.
 ] In the year 1889 Governor Kilby left l the railroad business and established what has since resolved itself into the business he is now engaged in, known as the Kilby Car and Foundry com pany. of which he is president, l In 1894 Governor Kilby was married to Miss Mary Clark, daughter of Col 1 Whitfield Clark of Barbour county and Annie Dent Clark whose parents were South Carolinians
 | To bless their home came three wonder ful children-all grown to young woman hood and young manhood now; Anne
 
 Thomas Kilby, Jr.
 In their home life Governor Kilby has had the generous support and co-opera- ton of bis charming wife who is noted for her sweetness. her gentleness andfh her kindness. Mrs. Kilby takes a great deal of interest in church affairs and she and Gov Kilby, with their children. attend Grace Episcopal church at their home in Anniston Mrs. Kilby is an active worker in C,,til |cieties. Her unostentatous charities and sweetness of nature have endeared her to all classes in her home town and she numbers her friends by the score
 The genial governor will tell you that Mrs. l<ilby like many another politician s wife, has never wanted him to engage in politics. indeed she very much desired that he wouldn't, but there's such fascination about the game-and such a zest to it that it was irresistible and as he has been successful Mrs. Kilby no doubt relents her decision. and like all his friends, is proud of his splendid career.
 It would seem an ideal situation for Miss Anne I<ilby to be the first young lady of Alabama and queen the execu- tive mansion by her charm and grace but before politics took the turn that made her distinguished father governor, Cupid had voted otherwise. for dash ing, handsome, young lieutenant, who was stationed at Camp Mcclellan. had won the heart and hand of the lovely young woman. Miss kilby's engagement to Lieut.. Charles Brune of Baltimore wac announced sometime ago. but as the date of the wedding has not been decided upon she will yet probably enjoy few delightful months as the first young lady of Alabama" at the executive man. sion at Montgomery.
 There is quite a romance connected
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
LEMON JUICE
 WHITENS SKIN Girls! Make beauty lotion at home forfew cents

Squeeze the 1uice vI two ienvhs into Orchard White, shake well. and you have a quarter pint of the best bleach- plexion beautifier. at very, very small cost
 Your grocer has the lemons and any drug store or toilet counter will supply three ounces of Orchard White for a few cents. Massage this sweetly fra grant lotion into the face. neck and arms and hands each day and see how tan, redness. sallowness, sunburn and windburn disappear and how clear. soft It is narmless.Adr.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
A THUMB NAIL SKETCH OF THE
 LIFE OF OUR NEXT GOVERNOR


 LIFE OF OUR NEXT GOVERNOR Born January 9, 1865, in Lebanon, Tennessee Went to Atlanta, Georgia with his parents when little more than a mere lad.
 Received common school education in Atlanta. In 1887 removed from Atlanta to Anniston, Alabama At Annston he for the Georgia Pacific railroad He twice elected mayor Anniston and served two terms consecutvely
 He left the railroad business 1889 into the bus ness which resolved itself into the business ne is en- gagged n known the Kiby Car and Foundry company of which he is president. IVY He was married in 1894 to Miss Mary Clark daughter of Clark whose parents were South Carolnianl. In 1895 he was elected president of the Nao Bank of Annton which was consolidated with the Annson National bank in 1911 of which he is now president He was elected state senator in 1911 He was elected lieutenant governor in 1915 He was elected governor of Alabama on November 5 19l8 and will be naugurated the states highest executive on Monday, January 20, 1919, at the capitol Mont gomery ~
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
To the Wife of
 One Who Drinks

wife. mother or friend of some good man who drinks liquor to excess and cannot overcome the self-ruining habit. let her write to Edward J. Woods DA- 53s, Station F. New York. N. Y.. for con fidential informatioh which is likely to bring great joy--a complete victory over the drink habit.-Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
NN R ITH three years added for good
 WY ;", %ss'sss sss 's,s ,,: ss, s,', wa. ssss ssss

up in Tennessee in the quaint little village of Lebanon, who was to do "big things" accomplish great purposes reach the goal of high ambitions; become not only successful business man, but to have his life crowned with the great est honor that an individual state can bestow upon the noblest of her sons, namely, to wear the real sceptre of gov ernorship.
 This little boy about whom his fairy sOdmother wove her charm and magic spell was Thomas E. Kilby, who tomor- row will be inaugurated as Alabama's s chief executive, governor of the state!
 Governor Kilby's life reads like a page out of a novel, so romantically has it moved along, so smoothly has it rounded itself out, and today he stands the most prominent figure in the state. ''rhe Man of the Hour,' an honor to the great com monwealth which he represents, and credit to the south. of which he is such an admirable exponent.
 Governor kilby is distinctly man to be reckoned with. He is vigorous and an interesting personality; he combines those excellent and desirable qualities of clear thinking, acute observation. and cool, unbiased judgment, which belong to the successful bank president, finan-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
-GOV. THOMAS D. KILBY

the work; the best men who can bt found to take the positions will bts appointed and I shall hold my appoin-I tees to as high a degree of efffeiencY in the public service as is exacted iSl the best managed private enterprisesI7
 Governor Kilby actively interests| himself il. all public affairs and par-I ticipatcs earnestly in an effort to pro.| pagate a spirit of patriotism and loyA atty to America; and the same qualifi7 cations which have gained for him hfss reputation as an advocate of all that is wholesome and good, supplemented by broad sympathies and kindly toll erance, have won for him the conei.V deuce of his fellow men and the high regard that is given to a man of in. tegrity and honor.
 Governor Kilby takes the guberna- torial chair tomorrow with his sta in the ascendancy; he stands on thsX brink of an epochal period in Alabama history that he will wear his honors gracefully and efficiently none whd know the calibre of the man doubts
 From the foothills of old TenjI neSsee in the ~early sixties to thd seventies. to the resourceful valleys oby cid Alabama in the early eighties and to the capitol at Montgomery earl in 1919 as the chief executive ovel nearly three and half millions |, people has been a long iournev-bls
 A BROWNING ACHIEVEMENT,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19
|COUGHS AND COLDS
 NEED ATTENTION Dr. Bells Pine Tar Honey brings speedy, easy relief

Pneumonia and tuberc culoss often follow neglected colds and coughs.
 Pine Tar Honey faithfully according to
 directions and be on the safe side.
 Brings quick relief from lingering
 chitis. Soon the shifting stops. breath ing becomes easier. the phlegm is loosened and expelled. congestion van ishes. You feel like yourself again.
 Effective as it is, Dr. Bells Pine-Tar- Honey is most economical. Try it. 30c COG and S1.20.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-01-19

The present Japanese dynasty is b1
 far the oldest in the world for YoshihV to claims to be the one hundred a,d
 twenty third monarch of an unbrokd dA line dating from the seventh centuH before the Christian era