davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
COIOrs
Expect large Imports o.
German Dyes Soon;
Little Actirity
Here

If the trade blockade against Ger
many is lifted many dye manufacturers
expect large quantities of German
alzarine dyes to come into the Ameri-
can market again. Most of these have
net been produced in this country, and
it is stated by authorities that it would
take several years more to solve the
chemical and marketing problems in
connection with their production on a
competitive basis. The alizarine dyes
are the fastest dyes known
The same difficulty is said to prevail
in regard to the production of rhoda-
mines, a red dyestuff used for coloring
woollens and silks; patent blue, used
for the same purpose, and the vat dyes,
of which there are about seventy
Some of these colors are to-day selling
for SOS a pound, while before the war
they sold for 81 pound and less.
Dye manufacturers yesterday ex-
pressed the opinion that little increase
in activity can be expected for another
month.
Aniline dyes are moving very slowly
the dyers preferring to wait for lower
prices before placing their contracts
Intermediates, which go into the manu-
facture of dyes, have been dropping in
price for some time, and further recess
sions are expected.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09

French Textile Industry
Badly Crippled by Huns
Pique Mills of St. Quentin
Robbed of Designs 200
Years Old

1t will be at least two years before
France can come back into the world
market as an exporter of textiles, in
the opinion of prominent cotton mer-
chant who has Just returned from
Europe.
Before the war, he explained. the re-
gion around st. Quentin produced
nearly all of the fine piques used
throughout the world. The Germans
stripped those pique mills Of every
loom, most of the other machinery and
even the designs, many of which had
been used for two hundred years.
of Germany were made to restore
the looms, machinery and designs to-
morrow" he said. "the mills could not
start work, for their operating organ
izations have been scattered. Many Of
their workers entered the army, and
some have been killed and others so
severely wounded that they are unable
to resume their former occupations.
The same conditions obtain in the
northern part of France, where fine
serges and other worsted and woollen
cloths of high quality were produced. "
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Record Sales of
ClOaks and Suits
Reported for 1913
Mail Order House Books
Orders From 2,5OO,OOO
Customers i'm IL Months;
Profits Small, Sales Big

Two million five hundred thousand
customers bought $32,592,925 worth Of
women's garments last year from the
National Cloak and Suit Company, the
largest mail order house in the coun-
try dealing exclusively in women's ap-
parel, according to the company's an
rual report. This sets a new high
record in the COMPANY business.
The net sales figure for the twelve
months ended December 81 last was 179
per cent greater than in 1917, but the
profits were less, because Of the in
creased cost of doing business and the
war taxes. The net earnings last year,
after deductions for war taxes and pre-
ferred dividends, were S997,961, COM
pared with S1,72O,109 in 1917. The divi-
dend on common stock this year
amounts to about 1881 share, com
pared to $14.33 in 1917. There are
10000 shares of the common stock.
In the assets of the balance sheet in
ventories show S9,139,360 in 1918 as
against S5,756,S59 in 1917 and in the
liabilities notes payable increased from
This condition was explained by Presl-
dent S. G. Rosenbaum in his report to
stockholders, as follows:
"Owing to the difficulty in securing
merchandise and the uncertainty Of its
sportation, we ordered in before
the end of the year and paid for a
great deal of spring merchandise that
in normal seasons have been bought
for January and February delivery.
This earlier delivery Of merchandise
for spring selling, together with the
greater value per unit, explains our
larger inventory ana the corresponding
notes payable.
cat the end of 1917 the directors
set aside out of surplus the sum of
100000 as a special reserve to take
care of possible reimbursement of mer-
chandise values in the future We
have added TO this reserve out of sur
plus at the end of 1918 the sum OF
100000, thus making the total re-
serve for that purpose S700,000.'
The company declared its regular
quarterly dividend of SITE share or
the preferred stock, payable March
to stock of record on February 81.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Jewelry
Rush for SiIrer,care by
Retailers F0llOaUs
Heavy Holiday
Buying

Unprecedented sales of silverware
are reported by manufacturers. This
demand is in great measure due to
the replenishing Of stocks by retailers
who were practically cleaned out by
the unexpected rush of holiday bust
ness which followed the signing of the
armistice.
These orders have been coming in
from every part of the country since
the beginning of the year, and the feel
ing among the manufacturers is that
they have many busy months ahead.
Last season practically all silver
smiths were working on war orders and
none Of them was able to produce any
new goods. With the cessation of hos
tlities and cancellation of further gov
eminent work the plants were put on a
peace basis with the greatest speed
possible, and since then all manufact-
urers Of silverware have been working
at top speed to supply civilian demand.
Prices for silverware, one of the
largest manufacturers stated yester-
day, will continue high as long as the
government maintains its present fixed
price
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09

have been educated to demand more
comforts and luxuries. Moreover,
during the war many people denied
themselves many Of the good things
of life for patriotic reasons, and
these people will make up for lost
time"
Mr.. Gimbel was asked what the
outlook was for peace styles.
ut seems to me-" he said, chat
merchandise styles will undergo a
marked change. America during the
four years Of war was compelled to
originate practically all of her
styles Even stores like our own,
which kept their Paris organizations
intact during the great conflict, had
been leaning very heavily on Ameri-
can manufacturers and designers.
American manufacturers in the
emergency reproduced much foreign
goods that was exceedingly saleable
and artistic. The four years advent
ure in creating styles has been of
great educative value to American
manufacturers and to the whole
country. Now the influence of Pari-
sian designs will become powerful
again, and the release of materials
that were scarce will react on the
style situation
"The extreme plainness and mod
esty of war time apparel for women
will give place this year to elab-
orately designed clothes of the
period of the First Empire, and this
tendency toward luxury will help ex-
pand the sales of merchandise"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
NSAAC GIMBEL, president of
= Gimbel Brothers, told The
e Tribune Yesterday that pres

Fridays offering of S600,000,000 more
ness at Az per cent will supply furth-
er employment for the funds of the
country's banks. 1t is these bi-weekly
issues of government certificates in
anticipation of the coming Victory
Loan that help to keep the rental rate
on money lent to business up to its
present level. If it were not for that
the banks would now have little en-
ployment for their resources. The
stock market is dull, and Wall Street
brokers call on the banks for very
little money, either in the form of
loans from day to dav or for loans
which tie up the funds for fixed pc
RODS of two or three months.
Finally, commercial and industrial
firms are not competing against each
other in the demand for funds. Their
total requests are at low ebb. Dur
ing the period of readjustment all
lines of business fear to go ahead and
remain without definite policy. They
commit themselves to as few loans as
may be. A merchant does not like to
purchase raw materials now, for he
either expects or fears a decline in
their price, and he does not like the
idea of buying goods at this level, only
to find the price decline and himself
compelled to sell his finished product
at loss. Consequently he creates
few notes.
The result is that funds continue to
accumulate in the banks, who are be-
coming more anxious to lend THEN
money than merchants are to borrow
it. Such industries as the textile
trade reflect the restriction in com
morcial paper offerings most marked
/ ly The tobacco trade is one Of the
businesses which show it least. One
| of the features Of last weeks market
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Metals
Tin Plate Plant in Ohio
Shuts DoaUn for
" ant OF
Orders

Closing down of the Pope Tin Plate
plant at Steubenville, Ohio, yesterday
was regarded in some quarters of the
metal products industry as significant
This plant is operated by the Wierton
Steel Company. and suspended opera
ton for an indefinite period. The rea-
son given was the absence of orders
The closing of the plant threw $50 men
out Of work in the Steubcnvile dis
trict.
The metal market as a whole was
quiet, with both dealers and manu-
facturers holding off for industrial
conditions To become more settled. A
sale Of 100000 pounds of copper at
l7it cents pound for immediate de-
livery by one of the smaller producing
companies was reported The large
producers were still holding to the 49,
cent price established last Thursday
Copper in London sold at 16s4c tc
1880 a pound.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
indications of Record Sales
In 1919 Seen by Isaac Gimbel
Says Large Stocks Should Cause No Worry, Because
Per Capita Purchases of Retail Customers Will
Be Bigger This Year Than Last

ESAAC GIMBEL, president of
Gimbel Brothers, told The
Il Tribune yesterday that pres
ent signs indicate that Amer
lean retailers will sell larger vol
ume of merchandise this year than
ever before.
''Indications are that 1919 will be
a record year in the retail business, !"
the head of the chain Of three de-
partment stores said. "Despite SUI
perfcial evidence to the contrary,
the country is extremely prosperous
and impending problems Of labor
and capital are more than offset by
tremendous bank balances and the
greatly increased amount Of money
in circulation.
ut is true that stocks in retail
stores are abnormally heavy, but
this is not situation that should
cause worry, especially for stores
whose foresight enabled them to buy
at sufficiently low prices to meet the
competition Of new merchandise
produced under more favorable con-
ditions.
"In spite Of the present we'll
stocked shelves the buying of new
merchandise in the wholesale mar
kets should be extensive, because of
the anticipated large increase in
sales. The per capita purchases of
retail customers will undoubtedly be
much bigger this year than last, as
millions of people whose wages dur
ing 1918 were at the highest point
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Rubber
Crude Rubber Shipments
From Primary Markets
Are Increasing
Rapidly

Since the armisticc WAS signed
American purchases Of crude rubber
have increased tremendously, leading
importer told The Tribune yesterday.
All restrictions placed by the govern
ment on rubber manufactured products
were rescinded on December Is last.
Tire makers limited to so per cent
&c their 1917 production for CIVILIAN
use were unable, during 1918, to meet
demands. All the tire and rubber com
panes are taxed to their utmost and
additional plants were erected to meet
government demands.
Shipments of rubber from tho Far
East were limited by lack Of tonnage
and the British embargo made matters
worse. Great Britain formed an asso-
cation similar to the Rubber Associa-
ton Of the United States for the pur-
pose Of dealing direct with the govern
ment on all matters Of crude rubber.
Makers Of rubber products for peace
time were not permitted to produce
more than limited quantity.
Shipments Of crude rubber from
Brazil are now almost back TO normal
This primary market supplies small
share Of the worlds rubber production
Singapore and the Dutch East Indies
are the large sources of supply and the
shipments from there are coming in
greater quantities daily.
Most Of these shipments have been
bought up for many months, SO that a
shortage may exist for the next two
or three months, in the opinion of i'm
portcrB in touch with foreign markets
The government cancelled it's con
freefa wi'h he rubber goods manufact
users for gas masks, insulated wires
.suaer eoats and raincoats, but tht
large plants accepted this summary re-
/ lection Of orders with equanimity, fol-
! they had run their plants for the gov
eminent on cost basg. With peace
conditions prevailing, an opportunity il
presented for profitable production.
A future fraught with great posi-
bilIties Ia in store for the rubber in
dustry. More uses than ever befor,
have been found for crude rubber
Formerly the shoe trade consumed tn,
biggest part Of the production. Tn,
automobile companies are using go pc.
cent Of the imports to the Unite,
States and rapidly increasing their dc
mands.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Cry for Modesty
Tn Dress Fails to
Disturb Makers
Women Who Want Extreme
STYLES Will Have Them
in Spite of War and
Agitation, Designer Says

Makers of gowns for wholesale are
NOT anticipating any decrease of bust
rsss or change in the nature of the
r,odsls they produce because of the
a.;tation by the New York City FEEDER
ton of Women's Clubs against ex-
creme styles in evening dresses for
women.
The attitude of the gown manufact-
urers was expressed yesterday by
1scob Reich, member of the Mensch-
Reich Company, and one of the fore
most designers of evening gowns in
the city.
"There are always some women who
90 to the extreme in dressing" said
Mr.. Reich, "and no amount of influ-
enre will change them. We always pro-
vide for these extreme dressers when
we originate new models, but when the
Gowns are ordered by retail buyers
changes and notifications are sug-
essted. We can't sell dresses that
women won't wear, and the fact that
the so-called extreme gowns are made
simply indicates that women want to
wear those gowns.
Rush Orders
Even during the war period, when
fine or extreme dressing was supposed
to be in poor taste, we made and sold
al extreme and as costly evening gowns
AZ ever before. 1t is true that we cut
our production of evening gowns from
65 per cent of our business to about
IS or 40 per cent of our total output
but the designs we put out were neither
more subdued nor less expensive. There
was demand for these gowns, begin
ming with the woman who wears them
and working back to us through the
retailers of the country. The day the
false report of the signing of the
armistice was made public in this coun-
try we received hundreds of kilograms
from our customers among the retail
ers asking for immediate shipments OF
evening gowns, the selections of model:
and prices being left to our discretion
ANY evening gown, no matter how
extreme, can be modified if the wearel
wishes. Many of them are modified
before they leave our factories, for re
tail buyers usually have some particu
lar person in mind as the ultimate
buyer of the gown when they orde1
from us. We have buyers in here ever,
day looking at our lines, saying: Yes
that's a beautiful model. but Mrs. So
and SO would not wear it. Can't yol
build up the front and back two OIL
three inches and put in sleeves p The
suggested changes are made before the
garment is shipped.
What History Proves
Nearly every woman who has gooc
figure wants to drape it to the great
est advantage possible. That is a fact
that can be proved by history, and il
will continue to be a fact as long as
women are women. In my experience
have found that most Of the opposition
10 so-called indecent dressing comes
from women whose physical charms are
so lacking that they are compelled tt
cover their bodies as much as possible
They are jealous OF the women who
have attractive figures and displa!
them"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Low Price for Print Cloth

Southern cotton cloths ready for the
printing process are quoted by brokers
at cents yard for the goods known
as 64-6Os, 3Sl inches wide and allow
ing 5.35 yards to the pound. In the
case cited 64-60s means that there are
sixty-four threads to the inch of warp
and sixty threads to the inch of filling
or weft. Eastern mills are holding
similar goods at 912 cents a yard.
Voiles and organdies, cotton cloths
used in making women's waists, have
been sold by converters at prices con
siderably under those quoted by mill
interests Reports indicate that con
vcrtcrs are still carrying large stocks
of such goods.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Chemicals
Price of PhenoI Off
Sharply Since the
Var Demands
Stopped

Overproduction of heavy industrial
chemicals has become manifest in the
local market. Consumers are also over
stocked and, as one producer stated
yesterday, Everybody is waiting for
something to happen"
AS an example of the condition of
the market at present, this man called
attention to the price prevailing for
phenol. This commodity was turned
out in huge quantities during the war
for the manufacture of picric acid,
which IN turn goes into the making of
explosives. Two days before the
armistice was signed phenol sold at 43
cents a pound. To-day it can be bought
at from 10 to Is cents, while in some
cases sales are known to have been
made even below 10 cents pound. The
demand for this product now is mostly
in connection with the manufacture of
disinfectants.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Norwegian Tin Plate Mill

mill FOR rolling tin plates has been
started in Norway, according to the
weekly bulletin of the Canadian De-
partment of Trade and Commerce.
1t is intended to supply Norwegian
canned goods exporters with containers
tor their products. These manufac-
turers suffered severely during the war
because of shortage of tin cans, and
their predicament led to the establish
ment of the new plant. The produc-
ton of the mill, to begin with, has
been fixed at $4,000 tons OF tin plates
a yea., but it can be increased to three
times this quantity should the neces-
sity arise. The imports of tin plates
10000 tons annually before the war.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Holidays This Week
ldaY--In French Indo-China

Monday-In French Indo- China.
esday-In Greece and Japan.
Wednes6ay-ln China and in the fol.
lowing states: California, Colorado
Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois. Indi
ana, Iowa, Kansas. Kentucky, Michigan
Minnesota, Missouri Montana Nebraska
Nevada, New Jersey, New York, NORTH
Dakota, Oregon. Pennsylvania, South
Dakota, Utah, Washington, West Vir.
ginia and Wyoming: also in Alaska
Hawaii and Porto Rico.
Thursday---In Russia.
Friday--In Ecuador and in the United
States in Arizona.
:, SatuTday-In Bulgaria, Greece, Malta
Rumania and Russia
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Furs
NJ US krat Brings Good
Prices on Final
Fur auction
Bidding

A large collection of muskrat skins,
though not considered of the best
quality, brought exceptionally good
prices on the final bidding yesterday
which brought the fur auction held
here last week to close. Many deal
ers from out of town remained over
until the last offerings had been put
up in order to get chance to bid on
the muskrat, which, made up into
"hudson seal" is one Of the most pop
ular furs being worn.
The total sales of all furs offered
during the day were in excess Of
s1000,000, and officials of the New
York Fur Auction Sales Company
stated that the grand total for the
week would reach, if not exceed. the
Se000,0O0 estimate made last Monday.
The bulk of the muskrat skins offer
ed yesterday brought prices ranging
from s1.35 to s225. Prices obtained
for other skins ranged as follows;
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Silks
Coming Of Retailers Es.
pected TO Help
Silk Dealers
Business

Manufacturers of silk fabrics indi-
cate that they sense change for the
better in the mood of retail dealers.
Retailers have taken high grade fancy
silks in large volume, but buying of
The cheaper staple goods has Jagged.
Therefore it is thought there is void
10 he filed, and the more favorable
reports regarding the prospects for an
early settlement Of the weavers' strike
at Paterson are taken TO indicate ex-
pectations by manufacturers Of a bet
ter demand.
The holding of the National Retail
Dry Goods Association convention here
this week is expected by dealers in silk
to result in considerable business in
their market
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
English Workingman Pays
High Prices for Shirts

Cotton goods are selling at much
higher prices in England than in this
country.
"The British government" said a
leading merchant yesterday, "is help
ing to keep the prices up. The stand
ard cotton shirting made under gov
crnment supervision and selling at a
fixed price is Of a grade which would
go only into working shirts in this
country. Nevertheless, it sells for 60
cents a yard"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-09
Cotton Goods for Shirts
Higher Than a Year AGO

Prices for fine cotton material going
INTO mems shirts for next fall have
been raised and then lowered, but still
are higher now than they were a
year ago When these materials were
FIRST offered to the trade they showed
an advance Of about Is per cent over
prlces asked for spring goods. A little
'ster prices came down about 10 per
cent and purchasers in some cases were
gwen rebate on goods they had
nocught earlier in the season. The
~ per cent drop still leaves prices
ABOUT ID per cent above the spring
Ro0dA Ylricea