davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
Paris Hopes to Induce Notable Women
to Eliminate Non-Essentials and
Organize for Definite Style

remembered Palestine, and she threw
all these things upon the world in the
name of freedom and individuality.
What happened? There was no
powerful group to eliminate what It
did not want. Every season Paris
produces a salad OF ideas, but these
usually go before a jury as early as
the first of January and that Jury
eliminates everything that 1t does not
consider essential. The world goes ac-
cording TO this verdict. America gets
the result.
Perhaps by June France will be
sufficiently normal, socially and flnan-
cfally, to produce a set OF leaders who
Will save several million women from
chaos and confusion when It comes to
choosing clothes. The lack Of leaders
has proved disastrous. Let us hope
for revival of the old feudal laws
in fashion.
1t is said that the Directoire has not
won out. We are told that the ton
neau skirt has become tiresome, and
we are assured that the choice Of a
successful silhouette lies between the
Japanese posture and the coquetry Of
Louis NN.'s day. The wager among
the shrewd ones OF the world is that
the Japanese postuse will go out as
the summer advances, while the mid
eighteenth century coquctry will come
in with strength.
1t appears that the Japanese sil-
houette is being taken up with such
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

ends. They are made Of brilliant me-
talilc ribbon or Scotch plaid, and In
stead Of being fringed or hemmed theT
are often turned under half the H.
length.
Skirts have been turned UP now rRnd
then for half a dozen years. and sc sne
Of the accepted skirts of the hour lave
a loose panel down the middle Of. the
back and front that turns under. fangs
longer than the skirt. Is caught 30 the
lining, and gives a very graceful
troisered effect.
1t is we'll that, we have departed
from sturdy cloths, for we could never
accomplish the drapery that TIRE pres
ent frocks demand with anything less
supple than the weaves that The shops
offer. Whether or not the rnanufac-
turers preceded the designers in the
fashion for soft materials matters
little: the point Is that a wtiEnan will
find her summer made happier because
Of the fact that she can choose
diaphanous weaves for every type OF
gown or wrap she wishes.
Foulard is coming into It's own as
the season advances, for thu very rea-
son that It can be draped iuto Tanagra
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

not Stocking. The Japanese posture is
prevalent. 1t arouses interest and COM
nent, and 1t has changed dancing
more than walking, for there Is an en-
tirely new method OF dancing which
seems to have been created over night
by the necessities OF this japanese
gown.
Despite the prediction made by Cabot
that skirts would grow wide as the
season advanced. there is no evidence
that this prophecy will come true until
late in the summer. The American
or rather 1t has given its Endorsement
TO two styles. both OF which were mar
row from knees to hem.
One is the straight line from shout
der to hem; the other is the line that
is narrow at the shoulders, wide at the
hips and again narrow at the ankles.
Upon these two silhouettes all the
clothes OF the hour are based.
The majority of people think that n
vast number of French and American
gowns indorse the latter and the pub
lis is so used to 1t that It might be said
to outweigh the tonneau line: that is,
more women adopt II.
There seems TO be slight indorse-
ment OF the chemise frock. Every
woman wears tunic, even though
its form is disguised. The floating
panel has leaped back into fashion
with unexpected residence. 1t is
Topped under at the end and lined with
a contrasting color. The house of
Cheruit was responsible for this limo
walton. 1t is modification OF the
Oriental skirt. The original idea was
to have the panels go to the hem of
the skirt and then turn under to form
the dropping zouave effect that has
been with us several years. The idea
to-day is to have the floating panel
turned under at the knees, at tunio
length, giving il a chance to blow
about and disclose its brilliant lining.
! II you will observe the spring
clothes closely you will find that this
turned under idea prevails 1t has ap-
peared on the newest blouses. II is
well that you pay strict attention to
this phase OF fashion, because it will
rule our bodices for six months to
come. maybe longer. You know. We
have worn the tight and the loose
/ bodice with its unbroken line, but that
has given away. in some measure, to
a blouse that drops at the waist line,
sides and back. In evening gowns IL
is conspicuous. In street gowns It
fmakes a timid appearance, but it is q
forerunner OF a new strong touch in
clothes.
Sleeves are tucked under at the
edges as we'll as panels and blouses.
They are cut to the elbow. or three
quarter length. and then turned up on
themselves. Sometimes there Is a
brilliant facing or an entire lining TO
the short open sleeve.
Sashes are also turned under at their
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
THERE are already changes and
rumors of changes in the war

"HERE are already changes and
rumors of changes in the war
OF fashion. France is rest
less. America is FESTIVE. Somehow,
things did not suit in the February ex-
hibitions.
An observer of women and fash
Ions joining the two together In the
analysis says that women's discour-
agemeIt in the chaos of fashions
that were turned loose upon them in
February is a strong indication that
they need a leader. When each indi-
vidual expresses his own thought
the result is negative. A leader rises,
or a group of leaders. and the world
while 1t protests and grumbles fol-
lows the leader and the aim is
reached.
The reason that France ard America
are restless under the extreme lib
erty given them by the designers is
that they need leader or a group
OF leaders. They do not realize this
truth. The world of critics has said
that IL women were given their own
way in fashions and if they did not
have to follow one law which is not
suitable for all it would be halcyon
day. Freedom in dress, they said,
would make for artistic result.
Well, what have the critics to say
about the present condition OF things?
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

abandon, with such vehemence, that
it is likely to be overpopular and die
from that cause. In Europe there are
extremists who make up their eyes in
an oblique manner, to look Japanese,
pull the hair back from the forehead
and paint a slight point in front and
then varnish it with some kind of
brilliantine. An extreme fashion like
this usually runs a quick course, and
II we accentuate the Japanese infiu-
ence in SO drastic a manner that II is
copied from one end of the country
to the other it will soon cease to be
of interest.
The eighteenth century presents more
variety in style. less that Is objection
able and more that is pleasing to the
mass OF women. 1t has coQuetry,
frivolity. futility. These have been the
main symbols of women's clothes since
time began, and any departures from
them represent a phase and do not sug-
gest permanence.
Now that We are through all the
hullabaloo created by the various
forms of immodest dressing which were
projected in the February exhibitions
and exploited by large sectors OF
French society. we have arrived at
the conclusion that the American pub
lie is pretty safe and sane after all.
True. we have adopted some atroci-
ties in dress, but their atrocity has
had more to do with ugliness than in
decency. Women with huge. matronly
| figures who band themselves horizon
tally with colored embroidery, arab
esaue white braiding or silk and satin
in violent contrast TO the surface OF
the gown are seen everywhere. They
have taken up the worst features of
J the new fashions, and 70 these very
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
"The Little Club" in the 44th 81.
Theatre Building.

Like its next door neighbors. the
playhouses. THE Little Club" in the
Torty-fourth Street Theatre Building
is playing TO capacity houses" After
the theatre pleasure seekers have
found in this dining establishment a
congenial, refreshing nook, where soft
light and soft music make the hours
go speeding by. Dancing. Of course
may be awaited OF by the terpsichorean
inclined. The Sunny South Syncopated
Orchestra, composed of fifteen talented
jazz making darkeys, furnish the
music. Special song and dance num-
bers a-plenty contribute their share
for the evenings entertainment. At 10
o'clock the fun begins each night.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
News of Hotels and Restaurants

Forty-second street." saith Dame Cos
sip, aside from that provided by the
management. For instance no matter
where you may happen to be seated,
the periscopic arrangement of the mir.
rored walls reflect a view OF the entire
restaurant, so that one may see with
out being seen as it were. The Sum-
day evening affairs are especially en-
tertining, as the patronage Is so cos
mopolitan in character. There are the
Americans. who enjoy themselves
rather reservedly: pronzed English off,
GERS dining unostentatiously, dusky
eyed. vivacious people. Of the Latin
races. who usually dance divinely, and
husky, dazzling blondes from Sweden
tho whole ensemble helping to make
up charming picture that fits in we'll
with the Roman garden surroundings.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
Thomas HeaIy's May-November
Farm.

A six months run on broadway
spells success for any entertainment
and is the best guarantee the public
may have of the quality of amusement
offered The Victory Revue, the only
zee skating show in New York. at
Thomas Healy's Golden Glades, is now
entering the seventh month Of its run.
and while new edition OF the show
is in rehearsal table reservations
nightly for both tho dinner and sup
per shows alone indicate that Mr..
IIealy's plan to keep his ice skating
revue open all summer appeals to the
towns fancy. Elsie and Paulsen.
Cathleen Pope. the Misses Judels and
Peterson and the Famous Skating
Sextette continue as the attractions in
the sensational fee skating part Of
the revue. which thrills the audience
OF diners.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
COAT OF MAIL TUNICs.

There are, in the smart shops. some
very Interesting TUNES made OF a
fabric resembling coat of mail--chain
armor, really. These tunics are worn
with skirts usually in the same color
but in different fabric, one OF tho
heavy silks. The fabric Is in silver and
gold, and the tunics are made with
short sleeves, plain necliline, and a
narrow belt to hold in the waistline u
little. The tunics drop we'll over tho
hips.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

There is 80 much freedom to-day that
women show confusion; they are not
especially we'll dressed and they are
excessively fretful and irritated be-
cause they do not know which way to
turn.
When a strong group of leaders
such as Paris has produced every
month OF the year for over 500 years
arises and puts its stamp Of approval
or disapproval upon a certain fashion
there is no chaos. The dressmakers
are not In doubt then as they are
to-day. Women do not run hither
and thither buying the wrong thing
and then showing signs of distress.
They merely follow the leader. 1t is
the Oldest game the planet has played
and while II may result in wrong as
we'll as right it at least seems to give
content. 1t averts unnecessary quar-
reling and reaches its goal in a speedy
manner. Surely these are achieve
ments to be desired.
what VIII June Bringf
It is safe to say. IL one judges the
future by the past-and history runs
true to the schedule - that unless
there arises In Paris a well defined
leadership the fashions OF summer
win be as confusing as those OF Feb
ruary. Paris really produced quite
enough in the way OF change and ex-
element to have given us a revolu-
ton in silhouette as well as In fabric
ana coiors., She advanced the Louis
XVI. fashions: she went back to
4jcujs XIV; she put In a dash OF
spanish; she exploited the Directoire;
she advanced the Japanese posture and
gioriied the kimono; she took pieces
:sut Of the history q Bssyionia; abe
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

An innovation in the conduct OF a
motor stop-off will be inaugurated next
week at Blossom Heath Inn, on the
Merrick road. at Lynbrook, L. 7. The
Sussllind brothers announce the APP
pointment OF Miss Solly Burrows as
hostess in charge Of afternoon tea
dances between the hours Of 4 and
csc. Miss Burrows will also take
charge of the spacious dance floor dur
ing the evenings. Dave Weiss, man
aGer, states that motorists passing the
inn during the afternoons will not be
able TO resist the "jazzing" strains of
a real dance orchestra.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
Fountain Inn.

With the opening of the touring
season, now that the roads are in
excellent shape. Lynbrook, L. l.. which
boasts of Fountain Inn. is doing its
share TO help take care Of the heavy
motor traffic. Motorists who are on
the outlook for good food and diver
sion have found this inn real rem
devious. The congenial Henri" is
ever OH the alert for the comfort of
guests, and Jack Beck and his synco-
pated orchestra add to an evenings
pleasure. The management will shortly
announce gala night early In May
as the third successful year of their
popular road house.
"Murray's Roman Gardens"
"There is always some sort OF pleas
- 80
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
Sophie Tucker, Reisenweber's.

Then, too, the war seems to havo had
the effect of making family ties
stronger: the young folk and their
elders now dino and dance together.
mother tripping the light fantastic
with her soldier son. and daddy of the
navy, with n bald spot on the top OF
his head and a slight limp in his leg.
onesteps gamely with flapper daugh-
ter on the ever popular, mystifying re-
VOlvinG floor"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

The Majestic Roof is being con-
We, ted into n fairyland in readiness
for the opening. Copeland Townsend,
proprietor of the hotel, will not reveal
his extensive plans for the Majestic
Roof this summer until later on.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27
MT. and Mrs. Holsmam Have SEQ
ono wedding.


s. J. Kaufman of tho Globe gave a
small dinner on Thursday night in the
blue room OF Reisenweber's to cele-
brate the wedding OF Mr.. and Mrs
Benny Holman. who we're married by
Chief Clerk Scully at City Hall on the
18th. Among the guests were Mr.. and
Mrs. Harry Hrschf1eld. Mr.. and Mrs.
Frank Hughes, Mr.. and Mrs. Neil
Kingsley. Mss Peggy Shaner. Eugene
Kelcey Allen, Jack Newmark and DR..
Michel. A feature Of the occasion was
the remarriage Of the bride and groom
by a rabbi called in by the host to
administer the rites OF the Jewish
Church. The ceremony was delayed
somewhat because the groom had
neglected to provide the papers re-
ceived from the previous ceremony and
was obliged to hurry down to the City
Hall to procure them. On his return
all went merry as the traditional we'd
ding bell.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-27

"There is always some sort OF pleas
ant advertisement at Murray's on West
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05
WILL, MAKE
CAPITAL, TRIP
|TsPEclAL 70 me TINES

lSFE~isL ~ tHE ilNEst
PORTLAND. Dre. MAY Sin adding
strength 20 the initiation that Port
land Mobiles of the Ny stlc Shrine VIII
carry 10 Indianapolis. asking the Inn
perisI Council or that great ~organiza-
ton to send Its 1920 ceremonial ses-
SION to this city, rem .ors OF Al Ke-
Temple q Portland nave just re-
turned from n successful mission 20
the chiefs OF the Umatina Indians with
tine prom So that Z large number of
the bands VIII camp in this city dur
irE the time the SINNERS are here.
All Northwest temples OF the Shrine
are preparing 40 make the I%ndianap-
oiis pilgrimage aboard the Al Kader
SPEC al which leaves here the morning
OF June ; Two bands and two pa
tro.s Will he aboard. and numerous
stops enroute ave been planned. on
June S. all Northwesterners viii be at
Fargo 70 participate In a great cere-
monial in North Dakota.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05
Build Up the System
After Flu" Attack

words, after an attack OF the "fu'
you need 4 thorough tonic to re.
build the system so that you car
have your oid-time strength and vieoi
restored.
Nothing can equal s. S. 6. for
completely restoring your strength
and vitality after YOU have had this
distressing disease. This splendid rem
cdy puriaes the blood. removing all
disease germs, ard builds up the en-
Tire system.
: s. s is sold By druggists every
where. II YOU wish medical advice
simply write 10 Chief Medical Ad-
Ga, who Will give you such advice
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05

scene Of the disorder. were covered witA
watchers. Iu the front ranks uf th
crowd we're Tho wearrrs " rcd.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05
Important That You Get Back
Your Strength as Soon
as Possible.

Everyone who has had the "nu" finds
the system in a weakened and run
down condition, the nervous system
al upset, the appetite gone. and I gen.
eral good for nothing feeling pcryades
The entire body.
This is the effects of this strenuous
disease. It always leaves is y;otim 50
weak and dcbilitatcd that there IS as
much danger from It's aiter-effec.s as
from the disease Itself. n other
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05

MAY RESULT
uaTGRnArioaAL NEWS sERwcEl

H-HTEFNArioHAL NEWS sERYICEl
MILAN. Ma "a compromise sat
sfactory TO both Italian sentiment and
JuEo-slav econom.c interests has
about been reached as a result Of the
b piematic p~ourparlers in Rome. the
secoIo stated today Tht probably
viii lenable Premier Orlando and Bar
on Sonnino. the Italian foreign minis
ter to return % Pars this week.
Flume is entirely quiet. said 4 dis
patch from that city to the Secolo.
MICHIGAN Clyde. PaUl z Bow
ers. state prison physician. who is in
harEe or the psychopathic and surEic-
la wards % a military hospital at saw
ellie. California. has resigned his .po-
s5tion here
WHITING r. Dr. Rabbt Samuel Al
kon. or Flint. Michigan. a graduate OF
the University Of Chicago, has accept
III a call 10 the pastorate o. the new
lew ia church being erected in this
city.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05
Message From Governor.

Shortly before O'Clock Sheriff
Farnes and Chief Or Police Forbis az
rived at the Socialist headquarters.
They each made a quiet speech an
r~ouncins that II q parade vas attempt
81 II would be STONED. ressrdless %
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1919-05-05
Rain; Then Police Charge.

Buy your Victory Liberty Bonds
early.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1919-09-16

Jones. %; II. G. Mueller. 50, VS.. II. 8
Lawrence. %: Edwin Cobb. So, vs. q
w. Darling. 90; Harold Cooper. 81. vs.
w. h. Wildman. 80: A, II. u. Mat
thews. 81. va Harry Denmead. 30;
Dwight Denmead, 81. VS., Clare Wild
man, 90; Elderkin Boardman, Us, VS.
Sherman MoNally. 50.
The pairings. the committee said
were made by pairing the player who
qualified with the lowest score with
the one who turned in the highest
score, and second low man with the
next highest, etc.
The first round of match play must
be played off or forfeited by Wednes-
dAy night at 1880, the second round by
Friday night at 1880 and the semi
finals by Saturday night at 1880 and
the finals by Monday night at 1880.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1919-09-16
EAT LESSAND TAKE
BITR0. PHOSPHATE
TO PUT ON FLESH
A PHYSICIANS ADVICE.

Frederick S. Kolle. N. D., Editor OF
New York Physicians Who's VINO
says that weak, nervous people who
want increased weight, strength, and
nerve-force, should take 5-grain tab
let of Bitro- Phosphate just before or
during each meal.
This particular phosphate is the dis
covery OF a famous French scientist.
and reports OF remarkable results
from its use have recently appeared In
many medical journals.
II you do not feel well: II you tire
easily: do not sleep well; or are too
thin: go to any good druggist and get
enough Bitro- Phosphate for two
weeks supply-it costs only fifty cents
week. NJ
Eat less: chew your food thoroughly
and II at the end Of a few weeks you
do not feel stronger and better than
you have for months; il your nerves
are not steadier: IL you do not sleep
better and have. more vim. endurance
and vitality. your money will be re-
turned, and the Bitro- Phosphate will
cost you nothing.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1919-09-16
liscomb News,

Sunday at Boyds camp, north OF
LiscoInb. thirty relatives of Mr.. and
Mrs. NJ. J.. Miller gathered to surprise
them. The gathering was In honor, of
the twenty second wedding anniver-
sary of Mr. and Mrs. Miller. At noon
Mr., and Mrs. J. f. Carter and chill
dren came Friday TO visit at the lat
ter's home. -..
bounteous basket dinner was en-
joyed. About fifty were invited but
only thirty were able to attend. The
out town guests were Rollie and
Archie Miller and families of Albion;
Mrs. Lorna Hart, Charles Mathis and
Maude Weatherby. of Marshalltown.
Those from here In attendance were
the daughter, Mrs. G. B. O'Bryon, hus-
band ard children, Carey Miller and
family and, II. A. Miller and family.
Mr.. and Mrs. Albert Brindle and
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1919-09-16
FAIR RECEIPTS
TOTAL s22,131
PREVIOUS RECORD YEAR or 1917
is SURPASSED ~ ABOUT e.
$4,soo.
WILL HAVE NET SURPLUS
OF FROM 5000 TO 5000
State Aid Increased This Year From
$500 to St,5oo-Prizs Money to es
Paid viii About Equal Last Year
Except in Certain pspartmsnts--
Sources Of Income.

With total receipts on hand and an
ticipsted Of s23,l31.07, from the county
fair and the business Of the associa-
ton during the year, the receipts not
only set a new high record but Will
leave a comfortable cash balance for
next year. Taking into consideration
the difference in loans the receipts
from the fair this year will exceed
1917. the previous record year by about
$4,000. altho the Figures without ana
lysis show an increase of only s2,l29,
Secretary Clark, without yet being
able to make any detailed report esu-
mates that the association will be able
to pay all expenses of the fair, take mp
its notes and have perhaps $1,000 tc
SO, 900 of a surplus left.
. Owe Only $500.
The fair association was forced to
borrow 1880 last year, because OF
rainy weather fair week, and this $1,-
500 is included in the receipts OF that
year. Three hundred, dollars more was
borrowed this year 10 start the fair.
Both loans are TO be repaid.
The chief sources of revenue that go
10 make up the total OF S22.lS1.01, this
wears receipts are:
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1919-09-16
TELLS HOW HE MADE BEEF.
Morris Butler, Winner in Baby Beet
Show, Was Feeder,

In his report 10 the baby beef feed
ing contest, Morris Butler, Of this city,
whose steer won the championship at
the county fair. gives the history Of
his feeding Of the calf Butler got his
calf from the Angus herd OF Orville
Smith, Of near Ferguson. The calf
weighed 3s5 pounds to start and, fin
ished weighing $40 pounds, making a
daily gain OF practically two pounds.
The feed cost IT cents per pound OF
gain Labor and interest on money
invested. together with feed cost.
brought the total up to practically 20
cents per pound of gain. The calf was
fed shelled corn, oats oil meal, and
clover hay and was we'll groomed and
cared for during the feeding period.
The calf was sold to Armour & Co..
Of Chicago, for $3.50 per hundred
pounds. 1t is expected that in the
dressing percentages, which are to be
returned to the county agent by the
packers, that Buffers calf probably
will show = high dressing percentage
as 1t had more finished and a deeper
and more mellow covering Of flesh
than any Of the other forty-four calv-
es in the class.