davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

the sides the tulle stands out in nLteG
of ruffies and the skirt is semi trans
parent.
The gown which he calls the Bastile
is like unto the symbolic costumes Of
Revolutionary France. The skirt is
full and is built in two parts; there is
foundation of gathered white cotton
net that reaches about eight inches
below the knees, but this unusual
modesty in a Paris gown loses its
significance because 1t is unlined to
we'll above the knees. showing a long
eXpanse Of flesh pink stockings ending
in sandal slippers of dark blue satin.
Over this white net skirt Is an over
skirt made in founces Of dark blue
satin with a wide opening in front
and standing out at the hips to hold
the fulness Of a slightly wrinkled
basque which has a seam down the
back and is pinched in at the waist
to flare over the hips.
BY way Of determining some salient
feature that runs through the Poiret
collection there Is the odd basque that
! is graceful and new. It will be inter-
esting to watch its progress through
the fashions. 1t is accompanied by
| the outstanding drapery on the hips,
which runs through many more types
of costumes than those made by Poiret.
Evidently the strongest kind of effort
will be made to fill the world with
skirts that are fiat back and front with
! panniers at sides.
Whoever takes the lands that lie
below the Mediterranean as a source
of costume places trousered skirts first
among the foundation garments for
women. These are an old, old story
with Poiret, and to-day they are too
often accepted to cause comment. One
gown of golden tulle, Morocco embroi-
derry in the piece ana brown velvet
has a pair of velvet trousers with up
turned hens as a substitute for a skirt.
Shocking! Not at all. They appear
commonplace and weirdly modest be-
side the knee length wisps of skirts
that are worn by the French women
in and out of society.
| For Americans these trousers are re-
placed by a narrow skirt. There is
slight difference in the appearance.
The Capes splendidly Arabic.
It is when Poiret enters the field Of
genuine drapery that he is at hi
height, and when he adds the Moroc.
can inspiration to his love for swirl.
ing lines, then he produces capes, moi
coats. It's difficult to find a coat over
here. When found they are disguised
as capes by reason OF unlimited arm,
holes, wide play OF line and movement
across the shoulders and no method o.
fastening.
The Arabic capes are masses o.
color. Many OF them are in copper
Slightly trimmed with peltry, they Civ,
the appearance of FURNISHED metali
dashed with embroidery. that queer
handwork OF the Arabs that may come
into popularity now that 1t has beer
sifted and exploited.
One already finds II on gowns ant
wraps that are far removed from tn,
studio of Poiret.
All of these clothes are expensive
Let no one be deluded into the fan
tsstic thought that one can set any
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

thing here at the pre-war prices. All
prices rank with the best in New York.
and clothes are higher. How 1t will
turn out is of interest to the American.
Paris expects US to spend money and
is deeply disappointed at the passport
decision which keeps the spenders
from her towns, but judging from what
we see here there is a wide extrava-
gance going on among certain sets OF
French people.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24
FASHION NOTES

There are almost as many pale
pink silk jersey frocks as pale pink
georgette and chiffon, and that is
saying a good deal. There are wom-
en- who have to stay awake nights to
think how they are going to make
not at all adequate dress allowance
do and who ought to be getting ftocts
of the most serviceable sort who are
planning to get pink silk jersey. To
the young woman who dreams OF hav-
ing a limousine and a French maid
as she hangs on a strap In the early
morning surface car on her way to
shop or factory the possession Of
pink silk Jersey frock seems the in
carnation Of all that is desirable in
frocks. And truly they are lovely. and
It is no wonder that 30 many of them
are in demand. One that is especially
interesting is raised from tho realm OF
the usual by being embroidered in
scarlet and orange. 500.
A vVhite wolfe frock that has at
racted many sGmiring glances shows
a tunic ON the edge OF which purple
grapes nave Dccu eLuuEOlOcEcu anu Cul
cut around as We used to cut out
around the buttonholed edges OF the
centrepieces we embroidered
Tricotine is a fabric that we do not
grow tired OF and 1t Is having an es-
pecially good vogue now. There are
charming tricotine frocks that are en-
broidered in self-colcred floss In a
loose stitch in big effective patterns.
Gray seems to be color that Is
winning out without much having
been said about II. 1t is a quiet color
and It has como in quietly. 1t has
proved especially we'll liked when It
reveals itself in gray fox worn by the
sort of woman who can afford to wear
furs in the summer time as well as in
the winter.
Dotted fabric b used more ana more.
We find lovely frocks of dotted mus
lin Occasionally point d'esprit is
used. especially As trimming, when It
appears in bands. like insertion. or on
the edge Of ruffies or tucks. like foot
ms. Then there are dotted swiss hats
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24
Famous Designer Returns to His Own
After -Four and Half Years in
War-Rest in Morocco Gives
Him Inspiration for
New Clothes

The long years in the barracks fash
ioning uniforms had stultified him. he
thought. He beat the air in vain for
the old buoyancy of creating. the old
pleasure in seeing a line and color
develop under his hands. Nothing
came. So he left the atmosphere that
had surrounded his old life. He went
down into Africa. He lived among the
Arabs in the French possessions. FL
nally the mental buoyancy came back,
the old passion for creating.
He returned to Paris. He did his
house over, He opened his trunks and
shook out the treasures from another
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

where clothes for women are con-
cerned, is the recrudescence Of Poiret?
He has been a sensationalist in color
ever since he commanded the attention
Of the two continents. His brain was
a whjrlwind, throwing out daring in
SEPARATIONS. splashes Of primitive color.
ieaping from clothes TO household ef-
fects. to perfumes, to glassware, to
oddities and articles de luxe. This sea-
son he went to Morocco for new
thoughts. The result is a swirling
mass Of unusual celebration OF dull but
tempting embroideries, of trousered
skirts, Of short basques or Jackets that
flare out from the waist into fulness at
the sides.
There are demure frocks and fam
tastic ones, the kind that Poiret likes
to create, knowing that there is no
market for them. A green satin one,
as an example, that fastens down the
front with small scarlet buttons and
stands out like full trousers at the
hips. coming tight at the hem.
Poiret is nothing II not dramatic.
He senses the fact that something
startling must appear to catch the ar
himself, has been afraid that his in
spiration for costumes and interior
decoration was arrested forever, for
the war work on which he has been
engaged was of the dullest kind. He
| made a significant contribution to the
French army, one that will live and
| which had a strong effect on the
| casualty, some say; it was he who ex-
perimented with color until he found
that horizon blue that turned the
poilu into a self-concealing fighter in
stead Of a bright red target for Ger
| man fire.
Poiret was put into the position of
choosing colors. recreating new kinds
of uniform for the various branches
of the service and cutting the cloth
and seeing that details were shifted
and adjusted to meet new needs of
the fighters
| When one compares the French
army that marched in review before
PoIncare on July IL, 1914, and the
army that goes under the Arch OF
Triumph this year one sees what good
work has been done.
After he was demobilized he drop
ped down to Morocco to regain his
inspiration. 1t came. He decided to
take the mems costumery for his new
models and he brought back for the
work a conglomerate mass OF stun
that nils his workroom from floor to
ceiling. mostly floor. in the Poiret
manner. There he sits with a half
dozen assistants and an artist putting
down details and matching materials
until a frock is created.
Delves Into French History.
But he does not contine himself to
Morocco. He went back into the his
tory OF France for a series of very
alluring gowns. One he calls Jeanne
dare. another he calls the Bastile.
He feels that this Is the time to call
the attention Of the world to what
France has done in the past as we'll as
to-day. The former frock is OF copper
colored tulle and supple mediaval
metallic cloth. There are panels OF
the latter fabric front and back that
stretch downward to the hem and on
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24
E DRAMATIC OPENING OF THE HOUSE OF PAUL POIRE-
He Clings to Individualism and There.
byPleases Americans -Swirling Mass
Of Colors and Trousered Skirts Re.
fleet Influence From Lands
Below Mediterranean

: To have woman show new neck-
lace for which had Just been paid
100000, not francs, and to hear the
details of a dinner in which the hos
tess served, champagne from a foun-
tain and covered she garden with pol
ished metallic cloth illumined at edges
with electric lights and served swans
at supper sounds like the glory that
was Rome, also the money that was
Cesar.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24
PARIS, Aug. 10.

HAUL POIRET did two or three
- things at once when he opened
i his house on the Avenue dan
tin, renamed the Avenue Victor
Emmanuel III.
He refused to acknowledge that
there was such thing as q settled
fashion in women's clothes; he did his
vast house over in true MARITIME style,
rhastened, however. and gave a fete in
his gardens that are protected by high
walls from the public eyes.
There is a good deal of a story about
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24


always self-colored, is effectively used
for frocks and .blouses, trimming. hats
and parasols.
Judging from what we know so far
Of next winters fashions, there are to
be good many coats with detachable
capes. Sometimes little fur cap Is
to be part OF a cloth coat--a detach-
able part that may be put on and
taken off the coat at your will.
Colored linen skirts, with which
white or black or white and black
sweaters are worn. are one Of the
vogues Of the season. This com oIna-
ton Is seen at the seaside and country
resorts.
Cluny lace Is lavishly used with
French wolfe Of the sheerest texture
In some of the newest imported
blouseS.
The Knockers OF many OF the smart
after the fashion Of equestrian riding
breeches, trinity lace in at the knees
or else button.
Some Of the new street frocks show
fringe OF fur around the very bottom
Of the skirt.
Charming parasols carried by smart
women are Of white lace, yelled with
black chiffon or net.
A lovely teagown is made Win
cascade OF lace beginning at shoulder
falling over the arms in place az
sleeves and continued as a trimming
feature down the side seams OF tAA
skirt.
Bright turquoise blue hats are worn
with white and also colored ir5tks
with good effect.
A silk skirt OF some sort pull up
| over a petticoat of lace Iuf' or
tucked organdy is featureu ir 20
many of the new frocks that = y
| coming to be one Of the strong 'ssn-
| ion characteristics-and a charming
| ons--of the season
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

and other dotted white fabric, the dot
always self-colored, is effectively used
for frocks and .blouses, trimming. hats
and parasols.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

Cluny lace Is lavishly used with
French wolfe Of the sheerest texture
in some of the newest imported
blouseS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-08-24

The Knockers OF many OF the smart
est midsummer bathing suits are made
after the fashion of equestrian riding
breeches. trinity lace in at the knees
or else button.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
ASHLAND TIDINGs
PATIENT RETURNED
TO STATE HOSPITAy.

Nearly two years after his escape
from state hospital for the insane,
Theodore Lindfors, roughly dressed
and in a worse state of mental de-
rangement than when he left, pre-
sented himself at the hospital on
Thursday and asked to be received
again as a ward Of the state.
Lindfors is 29 years old and his
people live in Finland. He was COM
mitted to the hospital from Multno-
nah county July 8, 1917, and escap-
ed August 8 of same year. His pres
ent condition is such that the hospi-
tai authorities are unable to draw
him out with any story as to his
wanderings, except that he says he
has been in California part of the
time since he escaped.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
Winter Wheat Crop
Report is Normal

Condition of the winter wheat
crop in Washington on April 1, was
81 per cent cormal, compared with
93 per cent last year, 1t was declared
in the monthly crop report Of Julius
H. Jacobson, field agent in charge
of the state bureau Of crop estimates
Of the United States department of
agriculture, issued in Spokane.
The condition of rye is 81 per
cent normal, compared with "a per
cent last year. 1t is stated. The farm
labor supply is placed at So per cent
normal, compared with rs per cent
in 1918, while the demand is placed
at 1O2 per cent, compared with sS
per cent last year.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
Medford Rate Case
to be Considered

The Oregon public service commits
sion will be represented at confer
ence which may be held in Kansas
City early in May for consideration
of several cases affecting interstate
commerce, 1t was stated In Salem
Thursday. Clyde B. Aitchison, chair
man of the interstate commission
has not fully decided to call the con-
ference, it was said. He has written
to the Oregon commission that vari-
GUS cases are pending, which have
arisen out of the action of the Cali
fornia commission in decreasing In
tra-state class rates and apparently
affecting interstate commerce. He
suggested that the Oregon and Cali
fornia commission be represented at
meeting in Kansas City,
Among the Oregon cases on which
the conference would have bearing
are those of the Portland Traffic and
Transportation company against the
Southern Pacific company, relative
to class rates between Oregon and
California points, the klamath Com
mercial Club and Business Mems as
sociotion against the Southern Pa
ciflc company and the Medford Com
mercial club against the Southern
Pacific company, also affecting rates
between California and Oregon.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
ASHLAND CREAMERY
BERRY GROWING IN
CLATSOP Is PUSHED

One Thousand acres of berries
for Clatsop county" is the new slo-
gan of the chamber of commerce in
Astoria. With the farmers Of the
county the boosters plan making
that section one of the leading berry
growing districts of the state. w.
E. Schimpff, organizer of the dis
tributing system Of the Clatsop Gran
berry association, In conference with
the farmers of Netel grange urges
the planting Of berries and guaran-
tees a market If the fruit is pro-
duced in quantities. The agricultur-
al committee Of the chamber Of COM
merce, composed Of E. B. Hughes,
Mr.. Schimpff and William Larson,
is pushing the campaign for more
berries.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
California Woman
Squirrel Inspector

An active little woman attired In
brown blouse and breeches, and
wearing leggings and a cap made
after the pattern Of those worn by
overseas soldiers, is the first "squir-
rel inspector" Of the state Of Califor-
mia to report a district of consider
able area, over which she has super.
vision, as being conceded CONNER
cially free from ground squirrels"
Mrs. Pearl Doggett Of Kings coun-
ty is the only woman squirrel in
spector in California She Is ia
miliar figure to the ranchers OF
Kings county. She drives about in
her own automobile which usually
displays a large banner bearing the
legend Get the Squirrel.
The rancher realizes that he has to
meet a practical business question,
as well as a point of law, when he
sees this trim little woman making
survey OF his premises, looking for
possible ground squirrels.
The lady inspector" says that her
success has been in large measure
due to the general system Of ham
ding the problem in the county.
"Kings county ranchers do not like
the idea of being driven" said Mrs.
Doggett, "but most of them are will
ing to concede that they will do their
part If someone Will show them that
the ground squirrel can be eradicat-
ed"
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
HOOD RIVER APPLES
SELL FOR $f.75 A BOX

A stir was caused among apple
growers In Hood River by the pur-
chase of the entire 1919 crop of A.
]. Mason, Pine Grove orchardist, by
John Walgren, operating for Eng
lish importers. Walgren will pay,
according to the terms OF the agree
ment an average of $1.75 per box
for three grades of fruit. 1t is es-
timated that Mason will have 10000
boxes.
This unprecedented early purchase
1t is said by growers, indicates one
of the most active years on the part
of the marketing factors ever ex-
perienced here.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22

Portland-Lumbermen have ar
ranged to cooperate with Oregon
highway commission in laying an
experimental section of five miles
of wood block paving with full con-
fidence that if it is properly put
down 1t will prove SO satisfactory
that II will be the forerunner OF an
extensive use of wood blocks in the
northwest.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22

Enterprise enters on s125,OO0
paving enterprise.
Albany-City will build steel
bridge over Penniwinkle creek.
Hood River to get night boat SER
vice for producers to Portland.
Roseburg gets a new two-story Of
fide building on Railroad avenue.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
Notice.!

l have again taken charge OF my
Transfer business and will be pleased
to have all of my old and new Gus
toners call me at any time. handle
your piano or furniture carefully and
promptly and l guarantee to please.
Orders left at the White House
grocery or Icenhower's second hand
store will be given prompt attention
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22

Nobody likes a tightwad, but 1t
pays to be parsimonious when you
are ready to give a man piece Of
your mind
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22

VIII wonders never cease? You
can now NOW your own hair-by
mail while you wait.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22

Good manners are not taught in
the school books. They are found
in the home lessons.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1919-04-22
2,325,000 DE LAVAL
SEPARATORS
IN DAILY USE THE WORLD OVER

IN DAILY USE THE WORLD OVER
Wherever grass grows and cows
are milked, you will find the De La
val the favorite cream separator.
More De Lavals are in use than
all other makes combined.
The De Laval Is time tested. It
was the pioneer cream separator in
1878 and has led in popularity and
sales for forty years.
It's the worlds standard cream
separator.
1889 n x,~ ~--a ua-~wr
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-12-29

Observation-Disclosures.
CONNOLLY / WALKER (B. D. CON.
nelly and W. N. Walber)-Lawyers:
general law. chancery and probate prac-
ucs PEOPLES National Bank building.
Rock Isiann.
WALKER 1 SWEENEY ATTORNEYS
and counselors At law. Money to loan
on real estate. Rooms 2O9-212 Central
Trust building.
EDW. L. EAGLE-LAWYEH. GENERAL
Law, chAncery and probate practice.
OHce In court house. Rock Island
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-12-29
In the Days News

Dr.ISimon Flexner. who will pre-
side at the annual meeting of the
American Association for the Ad-
vancement of Science opening at
St. Louis today. is director of the
laboratories of the Rockefeller In
stitute for Medical Research, and
famed for his investigations and
discoveries in relation to bubonic
plague. infantile paralysis. and 9TH
er infectious diseases. DR.. F1exner
is a native of Louisville and re-
ceived his early medical training in
the university of that city. Suisse
quently he pursued his studies at
Johns Hopkins university and
abroad. Previous to accepting his
present post at the Rockefeller in
stitute he had been attached to the
faculties Of Johns Hopkins and the
University of Pennsylvania and had
filed high positions in several well
known hospitals. Or. Flexner's
achievements in the field OF medi-
cal research have been recognized
in honors bestowed upon him by
prominent universities and soci-
cites at home and abroad.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-12-29
Today's Events

Following the custom Of the past,
many American learned and scien-
tific societies will take advantage
Of the holiday season to hold their
annual meetings this week.
The 22nd annual convention of
the American Association for the
Advancement Of Science, together
with many affiliated bodies, will
hold forth in St. Louis.
The American Philosophical So
ciety will open its annual conven-
tion today at Ithaca, N. Y, as the
guest Of Cornell university.
Boston will be the meeting place
today of the annual sessions Of the
Geological Society of America and
of the American archaeological So
ciety.
The annual meeting Of the Amer
lean Society of Church History will
begin its sessions today at the
Union Theological seminary in New
York city.
The annual meeting of the Arch
geological Institute of America will
open at Toronto university today,
in conjunction with the American
Pathological association.
During the four days beginning
today Harvard university will en-
terrain the annual sessions of the
American Anthropological associa-
ton. the American Psychological
association and the American Folk
Lore association.
Many men and women interested
in municipal betterments are to
gather in Cleveland today for the
25th annual convention Of the Ma
tional Municipal league.
At a special election in Alabama
today the voters will pass upon
several proposed constitutional
amendments, relating to changes in
the system of taxation and other
matters.
Representatives of farmers clubs
in a dozen Of the western states
are to meet at Berkeley, Cal. to-
day for a conference that will con-
unue through the entire week.
Progressive farmers, their wives
and families from all parts Of
Oregon are to round up at the Ore
gon Agricultural college today for
the annual farmers and homemak-
ers' week conferences.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-12-29
Today's Anniversaries

William Ewart Gladstone,
four times premier Of Eng
land, born at Liverpool. Died
at Hawarden May 10, 1898.
lS27-Margaret M. Bottome, found
er Of the Order of Kings
Daughters, born in New
York. Died in 1906. - \
1S43-Queen Elizabeth Of Rouma-
mia, who attained fame as a
poetess under the name of
Carmen Sylvia" born at
Neuwied. Germany. Died
March 2, 1916.
1S50-Beginning of the second Kaf-
fir war in South Africa.
1s94-Forty persons persisted by
fire at a Christmas festival
at Silver Lake, Ore.
1914-Germans fell back on left
bank of the Bzura river.
1915-Swedish forts fired on Ger
man torpedo boats pursuing
a steamer into Swedish wa
tiers.
1916-The Scandinavian countries
joined in a peace appeal to
the belligerents.'
1917-British admiralty announced
the sinking Of three British
destroyers off the Dutch
coast with loss Of 1873 lives.