The broad ax., 1919-12-06
LATE STYLES IN
GOWNS And HATS
Pannier Returns and Hoops
About Hips May Be Seen
Sleeves at Vanishing Point.
BLACK AND WHITE POPULAR
colors Form FaVor,te Combination at
French Resorts-Stripes in Mar
row and Wide Arranssments-
Skirts Are Very Short


From all signs this will be a de-
ciSive season in Paris in so far as
fashion creation IS concerned. The de-
. signers seem 10 have taken on their
old accustomed stride. They have
turned their efforts unreservedly TO
; leadership in the world Of style.
To aid them in this crucial moment
there are arriving from the United
States, from South America. and from
England hosts Of buyers and fashion
experts 10 watch the latest develop
ments. This IS almost a new expert
ence. At least II is a revived expert
ence, for through the last five years
| only the most favored Of buyers have
I been allowed TO cross the water and
only a few OF the dressmakers have
I kept up their work with anything like
I pre-war yigOr.
American women during the war
7 have developed a style all their own.
I They are dressing now as suits the
climate and their life and their pur-
suits, which are quite different from
! the French womAn's. And one sympa-
thizes with the buyers. who wonder
/ whether their clients at home will re-
fuse TO accept the wonderful things
! brought over from France. II their
eyes are trained only for beauty they
viii be dazzled into letting all their
accumulated notions Of dress 90 by
the board and the conservatives at
home will not be suited
At this time Of the year all OF
France, as all Of the rest Of the world,
seeks q cool spot and so II is AT Deau-
Vile and the other resorts by the sea
side that one looks upon the fashiona-
bly, arrayed crowd Of women and is
able TO gain some idea Of the trend
Of the times as regards dress They
are wearing the very latest things
from q French point Of view, and, OF
course, the majority Of the fall fash
ions will follow In some respects the
lines favored Just now.
Skirts Are Very Short
Well, the tendency Is all In the d.
rectiOn Of the skirts that are shorter
than anything America has ever worn
OF even dreamed about. You hear IL
said that the Parisians are wearing
their skirts very long. but when you
see them with their skirts actually ex-
tending just below their knees, so that
when their arms are raised the skirt
pulls above the knee, you know what
short skirt really Is. II Is easy on ma
terial and is extremely good looking
when the fig re Of the wearer can
stand the strain. The skirts are tight,
too, but what matters that when their
length is what il Isl No trouble about
taking a good, long step in a dress Of
this character. Then the coats, when
Il IS q suit, reach almost to the bot
tom Of the skirts, leaving. in fact, only
about two or three inches Of the skirt
to be seen. The coats are either strict
" tailored or they show a little full
ness about the hips. That tells q story
Of forthcoming fullnesses Of even
greater volume.
II is so with the dresses. Always
there is a slight gathering Of extra
material where the hips Join the waist.
II is the pannier that Is greeting Us on
the broad highway Of fashion As yet
Il Is not large enough nor full enough
to be alarming. though there are ru-
mOrs Of hoops about the hips and even
about the bottoms Of the skirts.
The sleeves now IN vogue can hardly
be called sleeves They actually are
Just a little strip Of material over the
top Of the shoulder. In most instances
that Is all. and the Parisians wear
them fearlessly for morning and after.
noon In the evening there Is no sign
20 be seen OF sleeves.
Even the blouses for wear with
tailored suits are scantily equipped as
to sleeves. They will be quite high At
the neck, buttoning up under the chin
most uncOmfOrtably on a hot day, and
then they will have these little, made
quate sleeves-that IS, they are made
quate for anything except setting OF
q gOod-lOoking arm.
AAaGEAu q "a
the present mode Is little more than
two strips OF material sewed together
and cut bmOno fashion, though the
lines Of her frOck are not flowing;
they follow the outline Of her figure.
Evening GYMS, far from being an
exception 70 this rule, carry things TO
an exaggerated degree. The economical I
use Of material there extends to the
neckline, which not only opens at back
10 the waist, but sometimes below that 1
point These gowns are low In front |
also. An that Is used for the bodies /
are two pointed strips Of material on /
either side Of the front In order to /
keep this on there are strings Of Jewels
or beads attached TO the points strung I
around the neck. and from the back Of /
the neck strung 70 the waistline again
Il Is the fabric OF the evening gown
that counts for everything and iS
draplnE.