davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Home Dressmaker's Corner.
A SIip-on Waist without Lining for Women Who
Have Little Time for Fastenings.

and cuffs. three yards OF cdging viii
be required.
By cutting the front and back Of the
waist on the lengthwise fold OF ma
terial, seams are omitted. In order TO
do this. place tie triple TIT" per-
forations OF the pattern along length
wise fold, as sh wn in the cutting
guide. The collar is also placed on
the lengthwise fold. single 'T'' instead
Of triple "TTT' perforations indicat-
ing the position. The sleeve, cuffs,
waistband erd piecing are all laid on
a lengthwise thread OF the crepe de
chine.
The question OF getting into the
waist is solved in the first step Of the
waist construction. Slash through the
fold at center-front Of waist from up
per edge to large 20" perforation. Ga
ther front on shoulder between IT.
perforations. Close underarm and
shoulder seams as potched. Gather
waist at lower edge between ''T' per-
forations. Sew waistband to lower
edge of waist with center-fronts even;
bring end Of waistband 20 celter-b back
and bring small 20" perforstion TO
under-arm seam. Fold waistband
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

ed, for practical women realizes that
IL is an extravaganza 20 spend money
on embroidery materials TO let them
lie in the sewing basket unfinished for
weeks, perhaps months.
The centerpiece shown here is I'M
usually desirable because aside from
it's beautiful effect, It works up very
quickly. IL Is % inches in diameter
and cross-stitch is used exclusively In
its development. The roses may be
carried out in two shades OF red or
rose and the leaves in two shades Of
green, while the row OF connecting
crosses. as we'll as those scattered
through the border are most effective
done in one shade Of blue. One is al
lowed the utmost liberty in finishing
the edges OF the centerp'ece. II IL Is
being worked up hurriedly, cluny lace
makes a pretty finish. II hand-work
is 10 be used exclusively. buttonholed
scallops would give the centerpiece
a beautiful edge. There are many pret-
ty new scallop designs shown this sea
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
A Soup Suggestion.

In families where some kind OF SOUP
is required each day. Il is hard to ring
the changes as regard flavor and var
iety, and IL the family is large il is no
small item Of the days cooking. One
housekeeper has satisfactorily solved
this problem by the use OF canned
soups. which are excellent in favor
and can be had in a large variety. She
adds one can Of the prepared soup 20
a pot of soup stock each day. This
makes a palstable nourishing course.
varying according TO the kind used.-
tomato, vegetables. celery. asparagus.
pea, mulligatawny, etc..-snd requir-
ing the minimum amount Of trouble
for its preparation.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

used on a frock OF crepe Georgetto that
speaks figuratively in solid circles OF
brown on a ground OF satin-hgured
bisque voile. A dainty blouse and
skirt compose the costume, but the
blouse Is sleeveless and open az the
front, showing much OF a wonderfully
soft guimpe in bisque batiste with
hemstitched vest and fare sleeves.
Wide bands OF braid woven in block
design form n fashionable feature OF
trimming on many frocks in summer
materials. Flesh pink chiffon cloth Is
employed In the development OF a par
ticularly smart dress. the braid bor-
dering the extended sides OF the skirt
arranged 10 form great pockets. In
narrower effect the braid finishes the
round neck Of the blouse, which IS at
tached TO the skirt under a belt OF
satin in selfcolor. With the toilette
is worn a charming hat Of pink crepe
de chine trimmed only with a ruffie
OF cream lace stitched along the edge
of the brim.
Accessories count for more than
ever this season, and are shown in
greater variety. New and growing in
favor are the very deep collars OF ac-
Gordon plated Geoi gette and chiffon
cloth used upon one-piece frocks Of
severely simple design. Those collars
are expensive II bought ready made,
aud can be duplicated successfully by
home dressmni-ers by spending a few
cents 10 have the material plated by
a professional. One finds every
where the little shops where a special
~ Is made OF plating, Lem-stitching.
etc. Another novelty that is away out
OF the ordinary Is the belt OF net EN-
broidered with fine silk soutache braid
or the heaviest possible rope silk
Wound around the figure and secured
with a buckle Of plain design but good
quality a belt OF embroidered net
leaves nothing to be desired In the
detail Of a summer costume.
The new bathing costumes are Ut
ting companions for other modes OF
summer. following all OF the approved
lines and repeating many OF the dis
tinctive decorative ideas. II Is quite
possible 10 make the bathing suit at
home IL one wishes 10 achieve unusual
results and has the time and inclina-
tion. Certainly IL is far more econo-
mical. for the advance models are Of
ten prohibltive in price.
Navy blue jersey. frightened by
touches OF figured tub satin. Is used
for a costume that Is exceedingly
smart and at the same time practical.
The suit is in blouse effect and but
tons from bustline 20 hem. Frills OF
the satin finish the lower edges OF the
bioomers and is used for the collar and
sleeve trimming. The cap Is also OF
satin, rubber.lined
Black tsffeta and satin are extreme
-ly smart for bathing costumes. A de
sign that makes a strong appeal TO the
"sun-burned stylish" as someone has
,christened devotees OF the sea, has the
skirt trimmed with large tucks. while
the round neck and sleeves are out
lined with bias folds of white satin
The string belt elso is of white satin.
Many swimmers are forsaking bloom.
ers in favor OF swimming tights, not
only because the tights are more com
Portable, but because they enhance the
slender effect
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
GrInE no PArrERNs

Fashions on this page are Pictorial
Review designs. Numbers and sizei
are as follows:
Dress No. 1858. Sizes. 50 TO "A in
ches bust. Price. 25 cents.
Bathing Suit No. $40. Sizes. 81 &
46 inches bust Price. 25 cents.
Blouse No. S2s6. Sizes. "a to SS in
ches waist. Price, 25 cents.
Skirt No. s27e. Sizes. 81 to 42 in
ches bust. Price. 20 cents.
Dress No. S20f Sizes. 81 10 "A in
ches bust Price 25 cents.
Dress No S137 Sizes. 81 70 f2 10
chcs bust. Price. % cents.
Blouse No. S27f. Sizes. "a to a. in
ches bust. Price. 20 cents. (Hom'
Dressmaker's CornerD
Embroidery No. 1882, blue, II
cents.
Pictorial Review patterns on sale .
Crosby Hill & Co.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

able that the next few months will sec
a revival Of several style features that
were exploited a half century or so
ago. This, however. Is a matter OF
speculation rather than prophecy. II
one we're compelled TO declare the
three commandments Of the seasons
fashions, the logical reply would be
simplicity, smartness and good taste.
The blouse carries all before II,
whether separate or en- costume. Not
only is IL worn beoomingly by women
Of slender figure. but by those TO
whom N Ire has been more generous.
II ste ~ with chic simplicity and
relievS OF as many divisions as pos
sible without leaving II a bean-bag. the
Russian blouse or its by-products may
be affected with success by stout wo-
men.
Eminently suited 10 the taste OF the
fastidious is a blouse in plaid voile
with a delicate floral design winding
its way through the blocks Of the
plaid. The color scheme Is pink, green
and blue, with Just enough black in
the vertical lines for balance" Now
that they have been released from a
subdued bondage. plaids are doing
their share TO prove that this is sea-
son Of color. The round neck OF tho
design in question IS modestly bound
with a fold OF self-material and this
idea is repeated IN the finish Of the
elbow-length sleeves. The adjustment.
at the left side, is accentuated by a
trimming Of five black satin buttons ar
ranged in double rows and looped with
tiny links OF soutache. About the
waist belt OF black satin is artistical-
" wound the knotted ends falling at
will down the front Of the blouse. The
skirt is a straight two-piece model
gathered at the waist.
Women who are not enthusiastic
over the heightened skirts will find
famous authority for continuing with
tho two-inch-below shoetop variety,
for some Of the smartest dressmakers
Of Paris. including Callot Sosurs, are
sponsoring the latter. A model that
is a compromise between the two Is
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Coconut Custard.

One pt. milk; 1 cupful Coconut:
tablospoonfuls cornstarch; eggs; 4
tablespoonfuls Sugar; vanilla
Use a small amount Of the milk 20
dissolve tho corn-starch and put the
rest on the Ere In a double kettle
When a film settles over the milk. stir
in the starch-mixture and let II cook
until II begins to thicken. Add the
beaten eggs into which the sugar has
already been put. Let all cook until
Il thickens again. stirring constantly.
Remove and beat well. When the Gus
tard begins 10 cool. flavor with vanilla
and beat in the coconut. Serve with
cream
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
uhocolate coconnt Fillinr.

Two cupfuls white sugar; y cake
grated chocolate; : cupful water: =
10. cocOnut whites Of eggs.
Put tho chocolate. sugar. and water
in a double boiler. and boil this mix
ture until IL begins TO thicken. Take
from stove and beat tnio Il the co
conut; add the beaten egg whites
when the mixture begins 20 cool. Al
a filling for either white or chocolate
cake this is good.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Cross-Sttch Embroidery for Busy Needlewomen
A Charming Design for CenepIece hat Wakes a
Handsome Show, And Requires Only Little lime
On, all OF them easy TO work.

son. all OF them easy TO work
Next 10 simple outlining or the darn
Ing stitch. perhaps. cross-stitch work
Is the simplest Of all embroidery stit-
ches. when doing cross-stitoh remem-
Der that this style Of embroidery simu-
lates tapestry effects, and for that
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Pnrtnrnnsn Macknrei

Make some deep cuts in large mac
keller, rub into cuts a little finely chop
ped onion and parsley, and a seasonins
OF salt and pepper. Place FISH in 4
pie dish. Pour over Il about a gill OF
vinegar. Put Il in a moderate over
and turn IL occasionally. Bake an
quite brown.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

removed from the too severe mode Of
yesteryear. II is really difficult TO look
old nowadays IL one is dressed in the
newest fashion.
The great designers OF both conu-
nents show a tendency toward the
ideas Of other war days and il is prob
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Rr KArHRYN MuTTERER.

Docs II take long TO maker" is usu-
ally the first question asked by wo-
man after she sees an attractive piece
OF embroidery. II there is little likeli-
hood OF finishing the article within a
reasonable time. Il seldom Is attempt
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
A Slip-on

rERE is just the waist that the
II woman who must dress in hur-
Il l. ~ or who hates TO make button
holes or sew on hooks and eycs-de-
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
Coconut Drops.

/ lb. Coconut y lb. Powdered Sugar
White Of l Egg.
Beat the egg until stiff and work In
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

Tres. II is a slip-on, fashioned IN
repe de chine. The V-shaped neck IS
lnished with a deep pointed collar
md the back extends over the snoul-
lers in yoke effect. Turn-back Guns
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

By MAUDE HALL.
Tl HE mind Of the moment in
clines toward an attitude OF
youth and grace and it is ire
sistibly reflected in the styles
for summer. Becoming in their sim
plicity, the latest frocks are yet FAR
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

the hands together with the sugar and
coconut until it forms little balls. Bake
in a hot oven on sheets OF buttered
paper.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05

be the effect Of the decoration All of
the best cross-stitch designs are ac-
compsnied by a diagram for working
so that excellent results are assured.
Evening journal., 1919-05-05
CONSTRUCTION GUIDE S27I

OF self-material edged with tiny ruf-
nes finish the lone one-piece sleeves.
VI preferred, however, the sleeves may
The Washington times., 1919-10-19

there IS no ezcuse for them. they defeat
their own purpose and become subject
Of ndicuIe.
And this brings us % consideration of
the peculiar fact that they have been -
troducsd ia this country. There IS Ger
tainly no good reason for their existence,
like that which has been demonstrated "a
Europe.
There IS no scarcity here Of men. and
though there 6 a certain shortage of ma
teriaI 1t IS hardly Of So serious a nature as
to precipitate a return to the first Empire
gowns. and more conclusive Than this IS
the fact that the eoncensus Of opinion Of
the best known Of our Importers Is that
the Americans DO not want then. Thsg
have shown # eonclusively BY their rsiusal
to consider the new models at an without
radical changes being made.
It is certain. too, that the French models
shown IN Fifth avenue have not been RE-
ceived with any signs Of marked approval
Formerly anything from Paris was consid-
cred good enough for Is. Now our experts
assure rs that more and more IS the taste
Of the American modiste beginning to as
sert itself and leave a marx on the IN
pOrtations from France. Several dealers
are very explicit IN their statements that
few French gowns are really suitable FOR
the American trade. They admit that We
still look % France for ideas and inspiFa-
lions, but say that the importations often
so restrict the movements that they be-
come impossible for their American wear
ers and that Of late they have been tncFeas-
ingly bad in workmanship. Another dealer
is quoted as SAYING that this year TqQre
than ever has America asserted its ~ e
pendsnce in the matter Of modes, are T
these extremes from Paris continue, 81 abe
in America" win become as much tn
vogue as the s1Taison Tel ct TeI' has bee-
in the past
The examples Of the new Partisan crrs.
tiOns which ] have already Inspected ~
this country have produced a lnCst fis-
agreeable impression upon me. IN O~e
stance tthe costume consisted Of he
black material up 10 the waist. whsle
above that a small portion Of the bust was
covered By light, white material. The
obvious intention was % suggest % a
casual observer that the person vas IN
draped from the waist upward
In another instance the corsage was
hung over one shoulder BY q cord, die play
ing an alarming area Of back
A distinguished member Of the theatFi-
cal profession remarked % me:
Il am sure that American actresses Wil
never wear such costumes
Certainly they ought not 10 Be worn sin
America, and do not believe they win be.
The Washington times., 1919-10-19

self-exposure is a dangerous weapon TO
plaV with. We now understand tnat
Phryne did not win her judges BY unVell-
ing but on the contrary by her toucning
mOdesty.
we must then consider these fashions
"A passIng phenomena following in the
wake OF q great catastrophe, and we should
perhaps regard them with pity and sym
Dathy rather than censOriOus condemna-
ton. Carried to excess or displayed when
The Washington times., 1919-10-19

The costume IS described
in the original manuscript
as having been q gauze
chemise over pink flesh
ings, with gilt bands
OF one time under the
Empire the ultra-fashion-
ables discarded underwear
and favored muslin COS
tunes, which they damp
ened IN order TO make them
fit closely to the figure.
Having shown that the
present reckless fashions
are traceable to the scar
city of men and the desire
to attract them, we must
next consider whether they
answer their purpose. With
considerable hesitation and
some notifications, am
disposed to think that they
40. In the case Of a woman
of mature charms, an eXpe-
rienced mRnkillers I think
that such costumes would
only produce a disagreeahle
impression on her quarry.
For her the charm OF artis-
tic drapery must always be
recommended. But in the
case Of a young woman Of
innocence, health, beauty
and unquestionable charms,
I am bound to conclude that
such costumes would at
tract an equally thought
less young man. Whether
they would secure her the
most desirable husband,
NAV be very gravely doubt
ed. but nature aims at the
immediate continuance Of
the race rather than more
0licated ends.
While we may believe
that these costumes in
france and England for the
moment serve their under
living purpose, we cannot
admit that their elective
ness will be Of long dura-
ton. Goods too long dis
played IN the show win
dows lose their attractive
.ess for the customer.
The Washington times., 1919-10-19

cred monk, and, quoting the authority Of
st. Clement, His Holiness strictly enjoins
MS officers, civil and ecclesiastical, to re-
press BY hne or corporal punishment, ae-
cOrding to the circumstances Of the case,
these crying enormities. He directs, too.
that punishment should be extended 10
such damsels as though at first sigh.
they appear properly attired, are never
kheless decked IN transparent robes, and
with VoluptuOus attire display themselves
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1919-11-07
soup Tor Fau.

As cooler days approach, the house.
skeeper inclines toward the piping hot
dishes such aa broths, which give 4
glow and have the dietetic value OF
aiding in the digestion OF the meal.
Ono Of the delights civilization has
brought Is dainty soup, as . first
course, a sort Ut appetizer,
The clear censomne and the fra.
grant chicken boullloa ere The Joy q
course. heavy soups are more. valua-
Bile from q strictly fooA Waldo cen-
allegation; indeed, more nutritious.
A an economy, q heavy soup with
plenty Nt meat. rice. barley, Or thick
vegetables may easily form IN entira
luncheon. for hearty children or 4
hungry man. especially ~ bread and
butter furnish stheF ,mportast In
Thousands Of home managers tn
cities whore there Is some crest "a
liable commeAcial PRODUCER sorne-
times visit the plant in large mum,
bers. Soup is. one Of tho tasty foodl
they e in process Of preparation
for . market catering to particular
people. Invariably. they come away
enthusiastic, converts to the immsnsl
esses.
First, meat used in soup making l,
selected from ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
cAFcaases. Rich. lear. beef, In which
flavors have been we'll developed, ar
the basis tor soup stock In the stand
ard hiEh-srade firma. The bones ar
removed ana cooked until the gelatin
Gus substance ~ procured. and this
Is used as the. stock in which to bot
the meat. thus saving all the richness
Vegetables are selected as follows,
White Colorado potatoes, tender car
rots. big yellow rutAbagas, bab,
Lima beans. celery, rfpc tomatoes
fine corn, Dutch cabb4se, juicy greer
okra, parsley. barlcM rice, macaroni
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1919-11-07
RECIPES
Fruit Cake.

Croam two cupfuls of, butter Nth.
W cupfuls of brown sugar; add five
w~ell-beatcn yolks of eggs. half a cum
full OF sour cream, one cupful Of
suttanat ratsins, one cupful Of cur
rants, one cupful Of Seeded raisina.
enc cupful of chopped candied pine
apple. n cupfut Of chopped nut
half a t"easpoonful of baking soda. one
ateaspoonfull OF grated nutmeg. two
ateAspoonfuls OF powdered ginger. half
~a3teaspoonful of powdered cloves. one
qudrter Of q cupful Of fsuit juice, two
squares of; grated chocolate melted In
three tablespoonful of hot water.
and the whites Of eggs beaten to .
stiff froth.
Turn intoNa papered cake-tin and
bake In 9 moderate oven for one
hour and a half.
= Rasln Pic do Lake.
Stew one cupful Of seeded raisina
and o~ne-quarter cupful> of English
currants in n pint OF apricot juice.
Add three-quarters of q cupful OF
cornstarch moistened in a little Juice,
ana four tablespoonful of butter. Put
in a pie shell previously baked and
cover with q mering4e of the white
Of two eggs and one-fourth of q
cupful of sugar.
An Emergency Brenkfast. !
Sliced Pineapple
~ Corn Flakes \
Plain Omelet
Bacon-Toast
Coffee-Evaporated Milk
Luncheon.
Tomato Soup, with Crackers
81 Tune Fish Salad
~. Hot Biscuit :.
Halved Peaches
Dinner.
Canned OK Tongue
Steamed Spinach
Asparagus Salad
Salad Dressing
& Waters =
Plum PUDDING Hard Sauce,
Coffee Is
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1919-11-07
fresh aats, iseks. onions and sweet

rad peppsrs.
Expert chefs prepare the. soups
from recipes that resulted from 9
series Of experiments that were test
ed for many yaara. Usually kettles
Of copper. otter lined With silver, are
For invalids, the clear, broths such
g censeFnme and tomato are prefer-
tg-'Ls ana e1taii, mixed vegetable,
chicken ana mutligatawny are delic-
|i0uA.
Our srahdmothsrs would Sigh with.
pardonabie amy, could they see how
cay housekeeping ana catering are
made tor modern women, who are up
to.date. and take kdvantA4e Of the
methods Of science and chemistry.
The degree OF heat which stefiitzes
soups through the cans is not posi-.
BILE in the average home kitchen; and
Some Of Is arc not naturally skilled
GGooks, and others Of W believe that
We 0ve time and money by using
the products Of the quality food fac
tories.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1919-11-07

Brocheae u oyssssS- And Raeon.
Pick syer oysters carefully to re-
mov4 ali PARTICLES Of shell. Roll in
crumbs. Press oysters on .skewer, al
ternately With very thin pieces of
bacon in inch squares. HFoil about
four minutes or each side or cook in
a hot oven. Purh from the 'skewers
to slices Of NJ tAast., serve at once.
usnlA Wsnf Ads Arinr Rasulta.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1919-11-07

Herald wsnt Ads Bring Results.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1919-12-13
Tony" Veteran Omaha
Newsie, Dies After
A Sudden Illness

Fillippo Moncuso, IS years old
Familiarity known to thousands of
Omahans as TONY" who for more
than q decade has stood at the cor
ncr of Fifteenth and Harvey streets
selling newspapers is dead.
Thursday night he complained to
his friends at the Mann hotel 1909
Cass street, of being i'll. DR.. Lee
Van Camp was summoned, and the
physician ordered him removed to
the county hospital. where he might
be cared for.
An examination showed that he
was suffering from 4 chronic heart
affection. He died early yesterday
morning.
He is survived by his wife and
two children in Chicago. The body
was remover to Stack & Falconer's
undertaking parlors, 3224 Farnam
street, to await burial.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1919-12-13
City Jail Prisoners
"Highjack' Whisky
Stored in Building

Methods of "highjacking" have
been taken up by TRUSTEES in the Jail
at Central police station. Will John
son. negro trusty, will be confined
on bread and water for FIVE days for
attempting to "highjaek" pint Of
whisky.
Out of the vast amount Of the
confiscated spirits in store in the cell
room of the station, Lieutenant Mar
shall, custodian of the building has
missed several quarts through the
depredations Of TRUSTEES allowed to
work about the place.
Thursday night after the lights
were out, Johnson was seen by the
turnkey in charge to Turk about the
whisky-filled cell. A few cautious
moments, and johnson thrust H.
foot pole ipto the cell in an effort
to push a bottle of liquor close to
the bars, police say.
Johnson was serving 80 days in
iai1 for yagrancy,
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1919-12-13
Irish Propose to
Raise Funds So Men
Can Be Able to Marry

Dublin, Dec. 12.-Proposals that
the Dali Eireann, or Irish Parlia-
ment, set aside sum equivalent to
100000 as state subsidy to ena-
bic young men to marry has been
made here. The idea was suggest
ed by Frank Fl. O'Donnell to the
Irish Women's Franchise league.
He criticized what he called bar
ter marriages" in ireland. He said
he knew Of girls of 10 years who
were brought into the nearest town
on fair day and taken to a public
house to meet men whom they had
never seen before but who were to
be their husbands.
T The girls, he declared, were bar
tered like cattle at the fair, while
their fathers and friends were drink
ing.