Cleveland County herald., 1919-04-10

scribe the beauty and richness of the new brocades which are used in this fashion. They are of almost barbaric splendor in a blending of superb col ors with silver and gold threads.
 Of course the gilet now and then has sash to give a draped line over the hips, such as shown in the London model I have mentioned above, but as yet the box coat for the greater number of models reaches so far be- low the waist line that the sash does not appear and is not necessary.
 We shall tire of these gorgeous bits of color as the weather grows warm CT and demand the simpler things of batiste, organdie and washable fab- ricS so much part of the summer and so crisp and fresh. Pique and linen have been cleverly blended in a smart waistcoat with the narrowest of black satin piping showing between the rows of the tiny pleats of linen, such as ap- pear in mems shirts. It is understood am sure, that few gilets show any collars, but faSten at the shoulders or button around the neck under the coat in the back just like the little dickeys in small boys sailor suits.
 A variation of the gilet is the linen smock, and by a curious fancy it is really unusual enough to be good look ing. For instance, sky blue linen smock is worn underneath box coat of dark blue gabardine. The smock hangs perfectly plain, like a China mans coat in the front and shows through slashing in the sides of the coat. No belt or sash confines the straight lines anywhere.
 Coat Dress in Favor Too.
 The coat dress is highly favored this year. It is developed in many pleas ing ways, as, for instance, in com bination of blue taffetas and serge, showing narrow and pulled-in petti- coat of the serge, over which is worn the long blouse of blue silk thickly beaded in dull red and blue beads. At the waist there is a narrow belt of the beads falling in looped ends to the bottom of the skirt.
 This is one of the best examples of the coat dress, as it has long sleeves of serge reaching to the wrist, and a collar of the taffetas thickly beaded and reaching nearly to the ears.
 By the way, this sort of design of- fers an excellent way to make over" a thanklesS job and, as a rule, an un- successful one, but one most women undertake nevertheless.
 Though we shall see more of the short coats than the long, it does not mean that the long coat is not Ia mode, for there are figures which cannot stand the thick, short look of the little hip length coat, and as our fashion makers are kind just now, there is no absolute decree as to length.
 Skirts are much longer, though we hear that Paris makers have them so much shorter. Why is it the Eng fish women never seem to be in a rage over the length of their skirts, but go along quietly year in and year out in a sensible length and fashion comfort able and sane?
 American women "dress up' as they live, never attaining comfort as they grow old, but always struggling to be stylish. Perhaps one reason for this is that over here fortunes are made so quickly and many women denied the things they craved in their young. CT days are only able to attain them as they pass their youth and fling themselves into an indulgence of style which never permits comfort and un. fortunately too often does away with dignity.