davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
STYLESARE MANY
Clothes for Coming Season
Marked by Diversity.
Various Periods Shown In WaIstiine or
Sleeve; Skirts Are Long and
Draped.

Great activity prevails In all the
large dressmaking establishments and
an interesting fashion display Is prom
ised for the openings. which win be
held soon.
ShallN we have a new siIhouettei
That is the important question. So far
there is little II any indication OF it.
but one never knows what turn the In
vention Of the leaders of fashion may
take, now that their minds are re-
lieved Of the anxieties of war. His
tory does not help us much. After
Waterloo there were no sudden shifts
In the modes, but a gradual develop
ment from the styles Of 1915 through
the seasons until a definite change was
crystallized In the fashions Of 1890.
There was a marked change In fashion.
including that Of halrdressing, Just pre-
ceding the French revolution.
The question of the silhouette is no
longer so important as 1t used to be.
Modern women are less obedient to
the dictates Of a few designers than
were their mothers and grandmothers.
The hustle mode returned, but not ev-
cry woman adopted II, as was the case
in the eighties. The majority preferred
the tunic or short skirt, or the slight
ly barrel effect This is an indication
that women now have independent
opinions on the subject Of dress.
One sees today a variety OF styles.
There Is In evidence at one and the
same time the empire waistline, the
mOyenage or the oriental line dropped
below the hips, and the so-called nor
NAL waistline. As for sleeves there is
the long, tight sleeve, the sleeve Of
1910. with its underpgff of lighter ma
terial; the Gregorian sleeve and the
Eastern sleeve slit along its length and
tied about the wrist. These are but
few of the varieties which one may
see In every gathering of well-dressed
women.
Then there is the realm of the skirt.
There is the long. draped skirt. the
narrow slit skirt, the narrow straight
skirt. the kilt skirt and the tunic skirt,
either draped or plated.
One sees a great diversity Of style
among the evening frocks
There is an exceedingly attractive
model of black velvet made in princess
effect, draped In rather clinging lines
and completed with a long train, the
train beginning at the decollete at the
back and extending In panel effect.
The right side Of the bodice is Of flesh
colored tulle. The,lef side is formed
Of the velvet. draped and crossing over
and fastened at the waistline at the
right side with a cluster of flowers.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
ART OF CONSTRUCTING A HAT
Secret Lies In Pinning All Materials
Securely Before Sewing Them
The Blind Stitch.

The secret of making a successful
hat lies In plnning all materials secure
ly before sewing them. Where the
bias facing is used as finishing to the
edges of the brim, the covering of the
top and the facing should be sewed
and the fold pinned all around, first
on one side and then on the other, be
fore the blind stitching is begun. One
should be no more sparing with the
quantity of pins used in millinery than
those needed in dressmaking.
The amateur milliner has often dis
covered to her sorrow that, although
her hat was smartly designed and the
colors well put together. the finished
product showed unmistakable evidence
of home manufacture, because here
and there the stitches were plainly
visible. For those women who have
not leaHaed to use the blind stitch,
simple explanation may be valuable:
The needle should be slipped into q
fold Of the material and worked
through II, so as to catch the folds to
gether without piercing the top of the
material. The needle Is drawn out
from behind the fold and again insert.
ed from the back and the needle run
along as before.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
MANY USES FOR PAPER YARN
Combined With Wool, shoddy, Cotton
and Waste, EnIaroins Supply Of
Fabrics for Clothing.

The use Of paper yarn has been
largely extended during the past half
year. The importance Of the industry
may be judged by the Increased pro-
duction now amounting to about S.
100000 pounds a year, says the Frank
furter Zeitung.
The manufacturing processes are
constantly being improved, and as the
matter stands now paper yarn can be
used successfully In the manufacture
Of various fabrics and garments, ex-
cepting only body linen and the better
sorts Of outside garments. Working
mems clothes. bed and table linen, cur
tains, sail cloth, imitation leather and
many other articles Of good quality
can now be made.
In many fabrics the paper yarn Is
combined with wool, shoddy, cotton
waste. etc, and the supply Of fabrics
for the clothing industry is thus en-
larged. 1t Is not to be supposed that
all these articles viii disappear i'm
mediately upon the return Of peace.
The demand for them will continue
undiminished for some time. and some
Of them may retaiR their place in the
market permanently.
The use Of paper yarn for sewing
thread Is also increasing. owing
chiefly to the scarcity Of cotton and
linen thread. The preparation, twist
Ing. etc, have been improved to such
an extent that the paper threads are
strong and durable enough to be used
In the manufacture Of coarse clothing
and sacks.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
FOR AN EFFECTIVE TRIMMING
Establishment Easily Produced, AZ.
fording Charming Decoration for
Collars, Cuffs or Skirt.

An effective mode of trimming
frocks Of organdie or other sheer cot
ton or linen fabrics is by means Of
what Is known as double work. and
this Is something that can be accom-
plished at home as -=ell as by the pro-
fessional dressmaker. The effect Is
produced by turning back the material
or applying It over the body Of the
frock in a simple design and then
joining II by q line Of hemstitching of
fancy stitchery and cutting II close
along this line. thus producing the de-
sign In the double thickness OF the
material
II is an effective way to finish COZ
lars and cuffs. and a Charming skirt
trimming can be produced By turning
up the hem In Wall Of Troy or other
design and stitching IT back along that
line. One need not. OF course, work
this hemstitchlng By hand. but IL can
be done 80 much yard at the shop
where you have plating done and but
ton molds covered.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

AAAAo AdCb DAOuSHl lOTClllE Ia mini
every time it tries to swim.
1t Is good to have ambitions h.
nature has imposed certain limitat,o,'
on every human being. You cana,
have Mary Jones nose, no matter boH
much you despise your own button =,
nose. You console yourself with a.
fact that Mary Jones could NOT -
your beautiful curls and your -.
disposition If she aRgled after IN
for a century.
1t Is waste of time for a Woman :,
long TO be a sparrow if she is du,k
Let her make the most Of her dBet.
like qualities, and she will beat tbs
sparrow anyway.
Be as ambitious as you can be- An
bition Is the axle grease that makes
the world go round. But miSdirec,pd
ambition is like pride-it ~goeth bA
fore q fall" 1t fills the world With
grumpy, discontinued fools, who donor
realize how well off they are.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
LOSE FAVOR FOR
SERGE And SATIN
Women Shew Partially to Fab
RIGS That Are More Suitable
to the Season.
Popular Demand VIII BE Net and In,
dications Are That the Mate
rial May De Substituted
for Serge. Ma

New York.-The world seems TO
have made up its mind to wear in sum
mer the clothes that are suggestive Of
summer.
This may sound like familiar con-
dition to women In those sectors Of
the country that prepare for the heat
in April and do not think of warm
clothes until November; but In the
large majority of these United States,
observes a fashion writer. there has
been a tendency. TO dress in summer
in a way that seems to defy the cal
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
EurnIture CLEANER.

To save time and labor while dolne
housecleaning try putting some on's
on In a pan Of lukewar.n water Wnio
has been made slightly soapy Win
pure soap. Use this to wash furniture
then polish with a dry soft ciOua.
Woodwork. leather and all will 100.
IKE new. for the olive oil feeds. VILE
the soapy water cleans, and there az
no injurious chemicals to eat the ""
n,sh.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

for shantung. Chinese crepe and fOu-
/ lard.
These are the materials that WI
come back to fashion. but they need
not be twisted and turned into com
plex and expensive frocks unless the
wearer 50 desires. Many Of them are
made up like muslins
Inslstenee Upon SILK Jersey.
No summary Of the fabrics that are
to fash forth after the frost Is over,
is genuinely good unless one brings I'm
Jersey. The worsted weave Of this
fabric is stin used. but the heavy silk
weave, plain or fanciful, Is doing its
best to come In ahead Of the others
on the race track Of fashions. The
American mills have turned out this
French product with more or less
success. There Is the drop-stitch
kind. another weave that has a thick
and a thin square, and still another
that has a twisted snd plain con-
trasting design
This fabric has taken unto itself the
air Of a conqueror, for II aspIres to a
formal place In society. II appears In
the guise OF an evening gown, not for
formal occasions, II is true, but for
dinner at a restaurant and the theater
afterwRrd. II is handled by the dress
makers in the same way as satin. II
has long lace sleeves, sometimes a hip
scarf Of Spanish lace with q deep,
pendant panel in front; again, It has
an upper bodice of white chiffon with
square Spanish sleeves to match. II Is
used for coat suits and offers itself as
rival to Shantung. for II does not
wrinkle easily. 1t comes In the ma
jority Of good colors, and In beige and
biscuit Ii still flows along at high
tide.
1t Is felt, more than said, that satin
may have had fits day as a spring fab
ric. There is strong tendency away
from II, just as there Is from serge.
No one who dabbles among clothes can
fail to notice this avoidance of the two
fabrics in orders for new frOcks.
Satin is still good for evening, but IL
Is draped with chiffon or tulle. When
brilliant colors are used, as In one OF
the new gowns named after General
Pershing, American beauty red satin
Is yelled In an oriental manner with
long festOons of mauve chiffon. each
corner weishted with an amethyst
necklace that drops TO the knees in
front, outlines the sharply cut decol-
letage over the shoulders and drops In
two straight lines below the waist at
the back. each end finished with a
tassel of the amethyst. This type of
gown is chosen everywhere among
smart people. when satin is used. 1t
permits the GENERALIZATION of a gown,
which Is the dear desire OF dressmak-
ers.
As for serge, exactly what the pub
lie has against II. one cannot find out.
Perhaps 1t Is just weary Of 1t and
wants something that does not sug-
yest the somber. conservative clothes
Of war days. There is a very soft
cloth that looks like serge which the
tailors are using for coat suits, but
even with the model as ordered EOm-
IN choose another material. They do
not want even a semblance of serge.
Covert Cloth Worn Again.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

is covert cloth. II came into fashion
through Its usage at Thanksgiving by
a few very smart women I'm New York.
and the same houses that Introduced
II then have put it forth as a novelty
for early spring.
The American people know covert
cloth quite well They had much to
do with II during preceding genera
tion- It's tone today Is not as muddy
and brown rs then; there Is a spark
Ling touch Of tan about q which makes
Il quite becoming. Cnat suits made Of
Il. the new ones that are trailing along
IN genial climates. worn by women
bent on amusing themselves, have the
surface tucked In squares or lattice
work. according TO an ancient AID
honorable triek Of ornamentatlon. The
coats Of these suits are left open after
the fastening Of three or four buttons
q the neck: this Is 70 show a TITLED
blouse, usually In Z pale color.
By the way, these friIled, pastel
colored muslin houses may be the
forerunners Of . wide revival Of
colored muslin frocks
.copyTieht. ~. By the Mcclnzs Nsws.
paper synficate1
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

W NAAC on anu u
her wings7
Try as they
may, they cannot
reach the clouds.
They cannot do
what every saucy
sparrow and ev-
cry black crow
can do.
All Of which
goes to prove
that II you ARD a
chicken don't try
to be a sparrow.
And IL you are "a
duck, don't try to
be a crow. A
chicken cannot
even be a duck.
The chicken has
this fart hrOuoht
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

endar. Hundreds Of these women buy
thin serge frocks and suits, gowns
with strong silk Innings, chiffon or
satin bOdices that do not wash, and
there is always a bit Of fur hanging
in the closet ready to, be used with
or without excuse.
There was a time when even the
women Of the cooler states permitted
themselves to look upon lingerie
gowns with favor. This was done in
Paris, where there has always been
tendency to avoid cool simplicity, even
though July and August demand
clothes that win give comfort The
may be a young girl working for her
living. never appears in the street or
at q shop In a separate white shirt
waist without a coat, and none of the
Paris women 90 about the streets. In
muslin or linen frOcks. II was this
French custom in summer clothes that
governed the American output for the
last decade or so.
Be Warned IN Time.
The woman who Is watching out for
her spring wardrobe and Is being guild
ed by the clothes going to pleasure
resorts, which are, after all, forerun-
ners OF what we viii adopt, had best
be warned In time that she viii regret
IL If she puts money into sweaters,
separate skirts and plenty Of shirt
waists. We. are coming into a new
phase Of summer clothes. II is really
an old, old one, and IL has been
brought back through the mental SOM
ersault We were compelled to turn dur.
ing the war days. We have a yearn-
ing for clothes that are sensible. Non
essentials have rather wearied us.
We think II especially silly to wear a
serge gown on warm, moist days when
we could be comfoFtable In taffeta.
foulard. Shantung and printed chiffon.
We know that muslin Is not an easy
fabric to possess. and cotton has been
needed for things more grim and seri-
Gus than Q voman's summer after
noon; but the other fabrics fall as
thick as leaves In YaIiambrosa. One
can get them for the asking. A vast
amount Of them are American made,
and one does not have to pay an Inn
port price on them. There Is a GER
tain quality Of chiffon which has been
put out by France and which we have
not been able 70 achieve. but Of the
foulards. the Shantunes and the vsri-
Gus types Of Chinese crepe and SIX.
our own markets supply our own
needs.
The French designers inauguratcd
tafbeta as far back as December. and
the American importers offered South
ern frocks Of this material the FIRST Of
January. but Il vas q taffeta that was
q close rival to satin. even thinner and
more comfortable for warm days.
When the American women. attempt
the fashionable draping Of the hour
with ta1efa that Is not exquisitely
Supple. It may be that the fabric wfIll
have q setback. leaving the way clear
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

The long. narrow ben. to be tied
front back or at the side. b appear.
Ing On many o. the satin or am
fpsckk
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
Through the
Looking Glass
BY EVELYN NRsBIr

Have you ever seen a chicken a.
Or a waddling duck look IoDpiDa a NJ
fo tha civ ond ~, oiugly In.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08

cite. The cap Is of velvet, trimmed in
ermine, and the young lady may carry
a muff and wear a scarf of this fur,
this completing an extremely smart
street outfit.
The broad ax., 1919-03-08
Covert Cloth Worn Again.

1t might be claimed that the leading
fabric for coat suits. and even frocks,
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06

LabIn :. Baker and John G. Bayley
marched with the Post, aIso
w {. Matthews Of sellersYllIe.
Pa. VINO has attended every
service for 81 years and our old
coIorad veteran Simon P Murdoch.
with the bullet wound n his head re-
ceived during the GI.Il Var. Al lhe
cemetery the ritual of the q. :. !.
was r1ad by Gen. KIng. little Ms
Florence Martin recIled Memorial
Day and a double anartette fraIn
Western Maryland College EanE
Nearer Ny God 10 Thee" and Taps
were sounded by bueIer Earl Brown
after which under the direction 81
Mr.. Theo Mitten. earetaker OF The
cemetery. the children placed the
flags nd flowers On every soldiers
grave. Thanks are especially due .
Officers Helm and Stem to Capt John
N. WeIgle for the use of the ArmoTy.
Times Printing Co and the Demo
cratic Advocate for printing the
songs and the names used on the
chairs. TO the Drum Corps and the
students Of Western Maryland Col
lege. n the children who formed
such ; beautiful parI Of the ceIebra=
tion. the choir and 81 Who helped i
the splendid program and especially
TO the vast crowd of people uho
remembering the deep significance q
the day. made II whaI will always b
remembered, beautiful MemorIa
Dan
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06

husbands intimacy til the other
woman would have caused insanity.
owing 70 the various serious physical
disorders that she suffered. He Haa
OF the opinion that zns is not ut pres
emf Insane, but thaI HHe could easily
be mae 30 by an nnzae excitement.
Dr. pnrdnm, OF Springfield SAM
torium. and DR.. Oliver testified In A.
cord 9TH Or. Meyer.
There was no eye Witness 70 Ihs
shooting. although !. neighbora aTz
rived shortly after Il happened.
Other witnesses testified that he
woman had brooded znueh over her
husbands attentions Il Mrs. ReeseT
and Id frequently 90 them of see
ing her husband riding with HeT.
One witness testified hat she trIeI
to break on the afTaII b going 70 :
local lawyer.
Harry Mort. a small boy who I've
IN lhs village, testified Ihal on the lay
of IHa shooting be ID seen KIzeE
come auI Of the honas. wave a hll1az
ing strap In the ar. nd then -
down he road. Soon afIerward MEz.
ReexsT. uho lived 0U@oaIfe. left h
house aHd walked = the direction
kiser I'D taken I HaH brought 81
thai Mra Kiser waited for her hnH.
band = come home. nd that - y
entered The house air ; trip 70 -
stable she went to lna summer kIteh=
en-. secured shotgun. md fired tHIa
the darkness The SIT took effect :
her husbands head. resulting fata.IY
about = hours later after the shoeI
Ing - kfser aazIHIzd her husband
To : eoiInh In the lIFInz room. took Il
his Hhoaz and otherwise made hifa =
comfortable az possible before e8lllaE
the n.IEhbors SszZ morning.. -.
fireI. uneoncerned. 10 vent abo :
her household dulIsz = usual COO
ink = Re garmhanIz md dc.aR II
family washing.
n. KIasr's son. Eztee. soldier
who - lust retaTn7d from France
va :. her side constantly. II
woman hangs her hid most Of -
time md shows - abnormal laek .
interest IN the proceedings.
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06
Pleasant IalIey Bank Opens For
HuzIaess.

On. Monday u this week he Bank
Commissioner Tor Maryland made an
inspection d he new bank aI Pleas
mt VALLEY nd gave HI certificate
authorizing ne bank to 0Den it's
doors for business which Haa done
Ihat day. : Daniel LeIaI6T i the
president anI Edgar i. shaeffer,
vice president. The cashier : Nevln
= crouaa. Tyrone. this county. who
Nns until IL close of the present
public school gaar teacher n the
county schools. Mr. cTauHz Has
named q Notary Public b Governor
Harrington n Monday lat
There -. eleven directors y the
bank and -. we're al present at
: opening = well H -. other
nnsiseAa NJ rom Pleasant ValIcy
and thai community. re capital
stock Is $4,000 and Tie surplus
$1,000 ! zIoTa room HaH been
IIxed up - the neceszaT. bank
furniture, zz|z. eIo.. In !. business
section d - village > Pleasant
Valley an IHaHa the new InzIlIn.fon
hagins IL existence. The no han
Is aepaFaza stockholders should
make titIs ; successful banking house.
TIIB Is ! - Iank and h broad
charter. Charles o. CIemzaHz Esd,
. this CIT. : he counsel Ior the.
1auk
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06
STUDENT DROWNED
Emerson {. speleheT. Western Mar.
land College, Gees Down In Roep1E
nam.

UzIzzlz
While swimming IN RoOp's III
dam. about two mile from this eIIy
Sunday afternoon Emerson :
SpeIehef. n student oI Western Mar.
land College, was drowned before II
could b rescued
Young speicher look pari IN tha
decoration exercises here on Sunday
afternoon when he marched in Ilz
parade from the Armory TO Wei.
minister cemetery nd back. Later
accompanied by several students
and aUme young boz from this cit
walled 10 Roopis III dam for :
bath. speicher wa lhe first in ne
water lie dived from the bank nd
waa throwing his hands around =
II swimming and HenI down and
did noI appear Sterling Edwards.
friend. seeing thai he did not ~
pear |or some time. diged In md
found him stretched OH on the b0s
tom and brought I'm TO the shoT.
where everything possible WAS ~
to IHInK him to lie. nnl all failed
A physician was summoned and af=
ter working for Home time pr
nonncsd him dead.
lie Has about i years Of age md
a son IF Mr. and Mr. 4. M. Speieher.
Accident. Garrett county. Md. md
a nephew Of State Senator Harvey
sneIeHar
IL had been a student at wesssfn
Maryland College Tor IWo years ~
was n the preparatory department.
The body was taken 10 the funeral
'parlora Of Harvey Hankard & sun.
EasI MaIn street. where il was pfez
pared for burial md sent to -
home At Accident. Nd. on Monday
for inIarment.
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06

Exercises Start Tonight Program
for Each Day.

Victory Commencement starting
tonight and ending Wednesday. wIIl
be held in Alumni Hall. Western
Maryland College, With the follow.
ing program:
Friday. June $500 ,. m. Fresh.
man and Sophomore contests !
ElooutIon for the Norment prizes
certificates and hon0rs of the Pre-.
paraIory School VII Be awarded.
Saturday. June loo .. m. m.
yelling window In Alumni Hall ).
the class of 1919; presidents dinnsl
to graduation class 500 p. N.
Freshman class cremation.
Sunday. June s-=I0zs1 a. m, Bae.
ealanreate sermon y President
LewIa. 800 D. m. HHTmon before II.
chrIEIIaH Associations. Rev Charles
Z. senaeffer, ID. .. General secre
tary of the board of Home MiasionI
of tha Reformed church in the uniIsg
States.
Monday. June 800 D. m. Liter
arr society reunions. 500 p. N
piano recital. Leon sHmpaix.
Tuesday. June I0=-I000 d n.
annual meeting u The board :
trustees. 1890 q. N. The Comedy ,
Errors. Shakespeare. School OF =.
culIUn. On the campus. 200 p. n
military exhibition. athletic fed
100 :. m. annual business meeIInI
Of fhs alumni association. 500 p. y.
aoeIEI. opnieats.
I Wednesday, June II@fDc0 =. =
Victor. commencement. orationa :
SIX graduates: award II nnderRraaH
ate hoHprs: comforting Of degrees
His Exeeilency. Emerson G HarfInE
ton. Governor of Maryland; Address
Colonel Honert ]. Gil. !
s. !. IF the Glass Of 10
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-06-06
#pARMgIaY
CarraII ooHHtains 1IIena Bic aeetiss
i Maryland state College.


TIE Farmers' D. i The Maryland
State College was attended by . IaTEz
gathering of farmers ITem all sections
of -. state II : estimated tt
the crowd exceeded - thousand
The Carroll county delegation nm.
hanaa about 100. aomz 81 cars carried
the Carroll banner.
0nz # the features q The daY -
the enlllYAtor Demonstration. !
number of prominent IaFm implement
makers exhibited maehinea n.
tractor enltivatorz attracted eon=
siderable attention = esll aH q
ths - row ealsIszI4Ta The IHIsH.
national tractor eaI.IFzInr. and =
Moline Hare ca n - and did 80
wuIE The two re- lore cuitiYzIaTz
ma = John Dr.. ron AKu. -
International proved . me ffEfIHsTz
thu ZHaF were lo1=InE r8nHldefaH =
time : ealnE small sHlllYatOta
Friday saa aIHa Commencement
Ia : large eIzHz resolved -
diplomas A number Il promIHsnI
speakers Here present nd lnapITIHz
addresses wers made.
TIE workers IN IL College anl =.
tsnsIon Service dsssFKa much pfaIzs
foT - say thsY carried On the -
through he war - HHYe taken =
ths Tz@.n.sfaction -. II is n :
ta6 Maryland farmers = get baaE :
the IsulIege 10 tie .1afy effort ID
gIxH : III the support they can :
msEs : rank win - leading A..
cultural Colleges II - country.