Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1919-04-17

or some other convenient place, where
the roots can be covered with moist
soil. They can be kept in this way with
out injury for week or two. but should
be planted as soon as possible.
The ground where the plants are to
be set should be carefully prepared in
advance Where individual plants, such
as fruit trees or large shrubs are to be
set, dig hole several feet in diameter
and two or three feet deep. If the soil
is very poor a large part of 1t should be
removed and the hole filled in with good
garden soil. Usually, however, 1t will
be sufficient to enrich the soil with we'll
rotted manure and several handsful Of
coarse ground bone (the coarse bone Is
preferable to bone meal because 1t lasts
for several years instead of being used
up in the first season or two). All trees
require good drainage. Where there Is
hard sub-soil 1t is necessary to break
this UP with a pick or a crowbar so
that the surplus moisture can drain
down through 1t and the roots Of the
growing tree can go down as well as
make a lateral growth.
Where shrubs or perennials are to be
set in a mass planting, as in a Dor
der around the yard or against the house,
dig up and fertilze the entire space
Where the soil is rather poor, and it can
not conveniently be removed and replac ed
with good soil. an abundance of CONNER
cial humus should be applied and fork
ed
Most fruit trees, shrubs and peren-
mails should be set out as early in the
spring as work can conveniently be
done. With care however. planting can
be done successfully as late as June.
This applies to nursery grown stock, with
a mass of f1berous roots. Native trees
or shrubs. or those which have been
grown to sell at a very low price, have
only few large roots and will not
stand transplanting nearly as success
fully.
II the soil Is at all dry when the plants
are being out 1t will help to water thor
oughly. When water Is used. however,
1t should be applied to the roots of the
plant. Do not finish planting and then
apply the water on the surface. II after
enough soil has been put In to hold the
plant in place the hole is filled up with
water, and this is allowed to remain
until it soaks away, 1t will be more help
full than any amount of water applied
on the surface after planting In fact 1t
of soil on the surface left dry as this
acts as a mulch and prevents the mois-
ture escaping from the soil around the
roots.
If very dry weather follows the time
Of planting further watering may be nee
essary. This should not be applied at
frequent intervals. but whenever water
is given it should be enough to soak
the soil thoroughly. The most effective
way of applying 1t Is to make a small
hole as deep as the plant has been set
and pour the water into this, so that it
reaches the roots directly. For conven-
ience large flower pot may be placed
over the hole. This permits applying wa
ter quickly, and yet gets 1t where it will
do the most good.
The first few weeks of dry weather
after the transplanting is the most try
Ing period for the plant to come through
At the beginning of the first dry spell
a mulch Of old manure, inverted sods or
some similar material should be around
the newly set plant. A mulch of this
kind will make any water which may
be given several times as effective as it
would be without the mulch.
During the first season particular care
should be taken to protect the plants
from insects or diseases. They should
be closely watched for the appearance Of
any worms and these, II they appear,
removed at once. Eating or chewing in
sects may be controlled by spraying with
arsenate of lead; II plant lice or aphids
attack the plants they should be imme-
diately sprayed with solution of nico-
tine sulphate which may be purchased
from any drug store or florist who sells
insecticides