The broad ax., 1919-10-04

mOrs of hoops about the hips and even .
about the bottoms Of the skirts.
The sleeves now in vogue can hardly
be called sleeves. They actually are
Just little strip Of material over the .
top Of the shoulder. In most instances /
that is all. and the PuriSians wear .
them fearleSsly for morning and after /
noon. In the evening there is no sign .
To be seen of sleeves.
Even the blOuSes for wear with
tailored suits are SCantily equipped as
To sleeves. They will be quite high at
the neck, buttOning up under the chin
most uncomfortably on a hot day, and
then they will have these little, made
Quate Sleeves-that is, they are made
quate for anything except setting of
a gOod-loOking arm.
Indeed, a FrenchwOman'S dress Of
the present mode is little more than
two strips of material Sewed together
and cut kimOnO fashion, though the
lines Of her frOck are not flowing
they follow the outline Of her figure.
Evening gowns, far from being an
exception to this rule, carry things 10
an exaggerated degree. The economical
use of material there extends to the
neckline, which not only opens at back
to the waist, but sometimes below that
point. These gowns are low in front
also. All that is used for the bOdices
are two pointed strips Of material on
either side Of the front. In order TO
keep this on there are strings of jewels
or beads attached 10 the points strung
around the neck, and from the back Of
the neck strung to the waistline again.
II is the fabric of the evening gown
that counts for everything and its
draping.
Favorite Color Combination.
Black and white is by all odds the
favOrite color combination at the
French resorts at this time Of the year.
Black and white stripes, since early
spring. have been very good for Sepa-
rate silk dresses and for suits, as well
as for tOpCOats. Now the new wOOlly
fabrics are appearing. and they show
these stripes in wide and narrow ar
engagements.
Then there Is the black gown with
the white hat; that is the most effec-
tive. This season they are wearing
over the white hat. which is sans trim
ming, n black, lacy veil. This makes
the costume even more effective. The
veil does not necessarily cover the
face-in fact, II rarely dOeS-but its
lacy pattern is so distributed that the
white showing through the black
/ transparent pattern makes a trimming
I of its own.
Another black and white cembina-
ton is that Of the white frOck, usually
Of taffeta, and the black picture hat.
Black shoes and stockings are worn
with this, and then, in the most start
/ ling instances, n red or a brilliant
green parasOI IS carried. White silk
/ Jersey frocks form effective portions
Of these black and white cnmhina-
| tiOns.
Hats Without Trimming.
The hats. as a forecast Of fall head
| gear, are mostly without trimming.
/ The style is all in the line, but how
] that line is obtained is a complete
{ mystery. Upon examination the riddle
/ only becomes more complicated. There
seems to be nothing there except a
band Of something stiff to fit about the
head. The crown and the brim are
/ entirely without inner stiffening or
frame. The trick does not allow for
explanation. It is all in the wizard who
| causes II to be. Yet, when this seem
ing mass Of velvet or satin is put on
the head It takes a shape and form
that commend II to any wearer. =
seems to have been made to set on at
its best that face alone, and while you
cannot say that the hat Is round or
oval or square or long, still 1t has
shape.
The felt blocked hats worn with
midseason gowns are round as to
crown aud as TO brim as well. The
brim turns up at the same distance all
the way round and the only trimming
for the hat Is a silk band Of the same
color. bats Of this character in beige
and taupe worn with navy blue suits
are effective. Then there Is another
variation Of this hat done in duvetyu.