davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1919-01-04
HARMONY IN DRESS
One Shade or Color Combination
Favored by Many.
Scarf, Turban and Bag All Of the
Same MaterlaI-shoes Are Also
Given Consideration.

This business Of dressing all In
one shade or in a harmonious COM
bInatlOn OF two colors at the most, oh
serves u fashion correspondent. is an
idea that the well-dressed French
woman is very clever about but which
represents almost too much time for
the average American 10 devote to
such a purpose.
Even when the costume was al
lowed more latitude In this matter
the French woman had knack Of Sc
lecting her clothes so that they obvi-
Ously were meant to be worn together
In spite Of their dissimilarity.
Just at present the scarf and turban
seem to be demanding especial atten-
ton, and an attractive way of max
Ing them conform to convention is to
have the hat. the scarf and possibly
the bag all Of one material II the
shoes match either the coat or the
color of the scarf, then all Is well.
One young woman seen recently
carried out the idea of matching the
costume to the last nonessential de
tail-whether by accident or by de-
sign one can only guess. Her suit,
turban and scarf were all Of duvetyn,
which was Of a pinkIsh tan color,
called tea shade. Her shoes and
gloves matched also. and under one
arm she carried an important looking
r1rfN4INn - hA
So unusual was the result OF this odd
costume that she attracted consider
able attention as she strolled along,
unconscious that any one
was looking at her.
In This case the scarf and the
turban were Of the same material, and
the fact that IL was humble duvetyn
detracted nothing from its smart
ness. The main thing seems. indeed,
to be the similarity and not the mate
rial. Fur, bands of fur, braiding, en-
angora and quilting are all
In use TO bring the point Of similarity
out. For dress affairs and incidental
ly for the fortunate possessors Of the
wherewithal there are the most at
tractive sets Of squirrel and various
other furs. consisting of muff, scarf
and turban, and sometimes q bag.
Pekan, which We call fisher. is the
choice Of Paris at the moment, and a
rage for long stOles OF this
fur has sprung up. although silver fox
and squirrel have a well-established
place.
The broad ax., 1919-01-04

In the softest and most supple o,
weaves. These lovely velvets drape
but do not crush. a rare attribute ir
any fabric OF this nature.
Often geOrgette crepe or chiffon II
used in combination with the velvet
The crepe or chiffon, for instance, may
form the sleeves and part of the bodies
while the velvet is used as a part OF
the bodice and skirt. Or the crepe
may form an overtunic, as in the cas-
Of one lovely model. and the underskiri
OF velvet.
The broad ax., 1919-01-04

sence Of II, should have added that the
open spaces in costumes were second
In importance.
Cut to the bone, there is no doubt
that he was right. The contour Is the
thing. II is where a garment goes
In or out that determines its fash
ion Few women there are who are
brave enough to 60 against the
contour of the hour, even though II
may not suggest the best there Is IN
their figures.
New DeeoIIetaee.
The change In the neckIine is per-
hsps the most important to the aver
age woman. She has belief in herself
when 1t comes to cutting a new kind
of neckline. She feels that q good
pair Of scissors may be the medium Of
Transforming an old gown into a new
gown by the simple process Of turn
ing an oblong neck into a round one,
a square one. or a U-shaped one.
All history is filed with rapid
changes In the neckline, and so far we
have not had anything new. We have
rung the bells Of history all over again.
That is all.
When Edward II was king Of
England the women wore the geor-
gette, which wrinkled about the neck
and spread outward over the chin and
the back of the head. This was intro
duced to fashion a few years ago
through a dancer and her clever de-
signer. 1t is still worn by women who
20 motoring, and they make it Of dark
blue crepe or yelling. rather than of
white satin.
When Richard III was king his
French queen brought over the
fashion of the low neck. and so, after
centuries, women dropped the neck
band Of the gown from chin to collar
bone.
When Elizabeth was queen Of Eng
land the delta decoIletage was invent
Cd, and It ran along with another neck
line that exposed all the chest and half
the shoulders, and then. as II by q
sudden spasm OF prudery. hid the neck
and ears BY an immense run.
When James came to the
throne OF England his queen intro
duced the very decollete. light bodice
with ifs immense. fiaring collar OF
wired lace at the back. and when
Charles I allowed Henriette Of
Hrnnce 70 lead the fashions for.
Nh court. there was the low. round
nsckline that dipped wen downward
The broad ax., 1919-01-04

hugs the side Of the neck and runs
down into a narrow L-shaped opening
Is extremely smart, and IL Is banded
with fur and then filed In with fine
folds Of silk net.
1t is felt by those who have their
hands on the pulse Of fashion that the
oblong neckline Of the Renaissance Is
no longer smart, although II is worn
by some well-dressed women.
Double NeekIIne.
There Is a disposition on the part
OF some designers to make a double
neckline. and this they do By a subtle
arrangement Of thin fabrics. A GER
tain designer has turned out a re-
markabiy brilliant gown Of raspberry
chiffon having a deep U-shaped
decolletage outlined with chInchllla
which swings the chiffon with the
movement Of the figure, as though IT
were q necklace. Beneath II, and hug
ging the bust In the eighteenth CEN
fury manner. Is bodice with a round
ed decolletage.
There win be an oblong Renaissance
neckline that reaches from shoulder to
shoulder, cut on a tight satin bodice,
and over that win be swung a lOoser
bodice Of colored chiffon or tuIle which
Is high at the back and has a long,
rounded line In front that drops to the
waist.
Black and seal brown velvet after
noon gowns have the Queen Anne dec
olletage. which follows the exact line
where the neck is placed on the body,
until II gets to the collar bone, where
Ii dips into q straight. open space half
way to the waist. This Is outlined
with fur. Again, 1t may be outlined
witt Venetian point.
The delta decolletage is considered
the most becoming Of all for evening
wear. Get out any picture Of Eliza
befhan times and you win see what Is
meant. In that gorgeous era the
women wore q jeweled piece Of open
net over the shoulder to the base Of
the neck at each side, and then the
decoiletage spread downward and out
ward 10 the arm-pits.
Take this change In the neekIIne
seriously. II win govern the clothes Of
the next few weeks.
tcopyrisht 1s1s. by Mcclure Newspaper
syndicats.l
The broad ax., 1919-01-04

In the back and was finished with q
deep vandyke collar that extended
over the sleeves
In the picturesque days Of Queen
Anne women introduced the low,
square cut decolletage. guiltless Of col
lar, which our women have worn for
two decades; and In the middle OF the
eighteenth century. In the Georgian
era. women used a simple decolletage
In a rounded v outlined with a
wrinkled handkerchief as a part Of
their street attire.
Running the mind over this slight
summary OF historical changes In the
decolletage, IL is easy TO see that we
have done nothing new; but here Is
what we are going TO do at the imme-
date moment: Revive the delta of
the Ellzabethan times. the deep square
of Queen Anne, with its tight, high
line at the side OF the neck, and the
U-shaped decoIletage Of the end of
the eighteenth century. with its mod
esty piece Of lace.
Return Of Lace Collars.
We have gone through a season OF
medieval severity in the neckline.
Women have aided nature which made
them ugly or cheated nature which
made them beautiful by going about
without any softening effect at the
neck. by wearing coat collars Of heavy
homespun unrelIeved by white. and by
The use of v-shaped lines OF heavy vel
Feteen and crepe which fashion kept
True to history this was, but not
rue TO art. There were few women
Who looked their best In such sever
~. Today collars return slowly.
There are stiIl those who tell
'ou they are not smart. but at the
Exclusive house there Is a tendency
o put precious lace on the new neck
Inc. II Is not a V-shaped neckllne;
/ is q deep U which calls for a soft
ming outline and an extremely soft
Of lace or tulle across the
'ust.
The Queen Anne decolletnge which
The broad ax., 1919-01-04
Different Aprons.

There Is infinite variety Of aprons
they are either Of chiffon embroidered
Ike the front Of the eorsage. which
continues In two points around the
waist or else they are made with Q
hchu to match, 50 As to connect win
the waist.
The broad ax., 1919-01-04
Fur vessh

Some Of the new velvet suits show
vests Of fur. Of the shorter sorts. like
squirrel or beaver, that button or fas-
ten tight up under the chin.
The broad ax., 1919-01-04

10 remove smoke stains from ivory,
inmerse In benzine and 90 over q
with brush.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
OPPOSE
JOSEPH AS HEAD
OF NEW REGIME

PRAGUE, Aug. II. - There is
much opposition to Archduke Joseph
as head of the new Hungarian gov
eminent and it is feared serious
trouble will follow an attempt on
the part of the Allies to bring about
the election Of the unpopular mem
Der of the former royal family as
permanent head of Hungary.
AS a means for making known
their distaste for the archduke, the
Social Democrats are staging big
demonstrations here and in other
cities throughout Hungary, and the
Czecho-Slovaks express the hope
that the United States will prevent
Joseph from retaining the leadership
which he has assumed. They be-
lieve that Joseph, being a Hapsburg,
does not represent the true senti-
ment of the Hungarian common peo-
pie, notwithstanding his claims to
the contrary.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
PRESIDENT CALLS
LABOR|TE CONFAB

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. r.
President Wilson has issued a call
for an international labor confer
ence, to be held in this city COM
mencing October 30 Representa-
tives of many foreign labor organ
izations will be asked to attend the
meeting for the purpose of taking
part in the discussion of labor
problems which have arisen in this
country and in Europe since the
conclusion of the war.
The conference will be the most
important labor gathering ever held
and it is expected that it will be
very largely attended.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
DIVER MYSTERY
CLEARED AFTER
YEARS Of WAR

BERLIN, Aug. 12.-The mystery
surrounding the disappearance of
the German submarine freighter
Bremen, which dropped out of sight
suddenly during the early days Of
the war, while enroute to the Unit
ed States for a cargo of medicines,
has been solved by the arrival here
of the entire crew of the craft, ac-
cording to the Vossiche Zeitung.
The paper says that the under
sea sailors came from a British port,
where the Bremen has been held in
captivity since its capture by the
British three years ago.
The belief prevailed both in this
country and in the United States
that the submarine had been de-
stroyed by British war vessels.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
RUMAN|ANS PUT
DOWN DISORDERS:
BAN IS LIFTED

LONDON, Aug. 12.-Oficial dis
patches received at the foreign of
fee today from Vienna state that
the Rumanians are widening the
sphere of their activities in Hun
gary, having assumed the response
bility of suppressing Bolshevik ac-
Invites in West Hungary. The op-
erations of the invading troops are
now being conducted with less show
of opposition on the part OF Hun
garians, who appear to recognize
that the presence of the Rumanian
soldiers will help to restore the
country to peace basis.
The Vienna dispatches also an
nounce that the Allies have formal
ly notified the Hungarian govern
ment of the lifting of the blockade
which was established early in the
war by the Entente.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
MA Wy MAY ESTABLISH COAL BASE IN THE NORTH
MAKE PROTEST AGAINST ARC1DUKE
COAST UNIONS MAY
LOSE MEMBERSHIPS

TACOMA, Aug. 12.-Voting on
the question of Zone Big Union"
may cost the locals forming the
Washington State Federation of La
Dor their membership in the Ameri-
can Federation of Labor, according
to information received by fedora
ton officials in this city today. The
information comes in the form of
an ultimatum from Secretary Frank
Morrison of the American Fedora
ton, who declares that the State
Federation will lose its charter if
its affiliated unions insist on a ref
erendum on the one big union plan,
along lines similar to the Industrial
Workers of the World.
The referendum objected to By
Secretary Morrison was to have been
held this week, and President Will
lam Short of the State Federation
will take steps Immediately to call
the voting off.
The s'One Big Union" plan, which
has received considerable favorable
support in this state, was condemn
ed by the American Federation of
Labor, at its recent annual conven-
ton.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
OUTSIDERS MAY
Be ALLOWED To
CACHE LIQUORS

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.-
The senate judiciary committee now
has under consideration the prohibi-
ton enforcement bill which was
passed by the lower house of Con-
gress several weeks ago, and there
is reason to believe that the mea-
sure will be shorn of numerous of
its Objectionable features before it
is reported for passage by the SEN
ate.
The senate judiciary sub-commit-
tee, to which the bill was first re-
ferred, eliminated several drastic
provisions, but did not alter the
house definition of intoxicating
liquors as those containing more
than one-half Of one per cent al
eohol.
The senate committeeman do not
favor interference with the storage
of liquors for personal use or the
manufacture of light wines for per-
sonal consumption.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
LEGAL ADVISER
SAYS SENATORS
HAD WRONG TIP

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.-
In a statement made today before
the senate committee on foreign re-
lations, David Hunter Miller, legal
adviser to the League of Nations
commissions at Versailles, declared
that the senators had been misin-
formed regarding the manner in
which the League Of Nations coven-
ant had been arrived at. He brand
ed as untrue the report that the
British plan, drafted by General
Smutz, had been used as a basis of
consideration.
The league plan used as a basis
for the discussion at Versailles, he
said, was a combination Of the
drafts of America, England, France,
and Italy, the finished draft repre-
senting the work of one nation as
much as another.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
OPEN COVENANT
PLAN NOT GOOD
FOR AMERICANS

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.-
In letter addressed to Senator
Lodge, in reply to a request for
information relative to the proceed
ing of the Paris peace conference,
President Wilson has informed the
senator that it will be impossible
for him to comply with the request
of the foreign relations committee
for documents used by the Ameri-
can commissioners at Paris. The
Presidents excuse for refusing to
produce the documents desired is
that the commissions files contain
many papers the publication of
which would be unwise.
The President, however, has
turned over to Senator Lodge the
informal draft of the American plan
for a League of Nations, which he
presented at Paris for the consid-
GRAFTON of the peacemakers, but not
urged for adoption. --~-
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
KELLOGG PLANS
NOVEL CONTROL
Of SYND|CATES
WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.-

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.--
Senator William S. Kellogg, Re
publican, of Minnesota. has pro-
posed legislation for the federal
control of large corporations through
a system of licensing.
His plan is to license corpora
tons having a capital or assets in
excess of ten million dollars, and
engaged in interstate commerce.
This, the senator explains, would
give the federal government super
vision over the issuance of stocks
and securities, insuring greater pro-
lection to the public and providing
additional funds for the federal
treasury.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
FOUNDATION STONE
IS LAID AT MARINE

CHATEAU-THIERRY, Aug. 12.-
The work of erecting a new bridge
to span the Marine river, to replace
the structure destroyed during the
war, was begun here yesterday, with
appropriate exercises, under the aus
pieces of the American Society for
the Relief of Devastated France.
The first stone in the bridge was
laid by Major General Howsee.
The old bridge was blown up by
the American Third division to check
the advance of the Germans toward
Paris.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
LODGE DENOUNCES
LEAGUE COVENANT

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. l2.-
In speech delivered before the
United States senate this afternoon,
in opposition to the League of Ma
tons, Senator Henry Cabot Lodge,
Republican, of Massachusetts, brand
ed the league as an experiment
upon a noble purpose. He declared
that, as an American, he could
never bring himself to accept GER
tain features of the covenant, as
agreed upon by the peace confer
ence.
The league, he said, would kill the
Monroe Doctrine, for which Ameri-
cans had stood ready to fight for
generations. 1t would also nullify
any possibility of withdrawal from
membership and impair Americas
sovereign power of deciding domes-
tic questions.
And worst of all, he concluded,
it would plunge America into every
controversy and conflict on the
globe.
The senator explained that he
had studied the covenant from ev-
cry angle and tried to see the bene-
fits as President Wilson pictured
them, but the more he studied the
document, the more convinced he
became that it would be a grave
mistake to accept the covenant in
the form in which it had been pre-
sented to the senate for ratification.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
NAVAL VESSELS
MAY HAVE BASE
IN THE NORTH

LOS ANGELES, Aug. 12.-Ac-
cording to naval officers attached
to the Pacific fleet, the plans of
the navy department include the es-
tablishment of at least one base in
Alaskan waters, close to the coal
and oil fields of the Northern ter
ritory. The navy board, it is un-
derstood, has applied for a survey
of base sites, and this fall will
make recommendation for the need
ed work.
Officers of the feet say that the
coming of the warships to the Pa
cific coast and the establishment of
a base somewhere in the North
means that Alaskan waterways will
receive much needed attention from
the Government, especially in the
way of the stablishment of safe
guards to shipping.
The permanent detail of the YES
sells of the feet will be made known
at an early date.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
MARY P|CKFORD WILL
GIVE FLAG TO TEXAS

LOS ANGELES, Aug. 12.-Pop-
ular Mary Piekford, of movie fame,
will make the presentation of the
George Washington pennant TO the
battleship Texas this afternoon, the
flag having been awarded to the
Texas for a record sale of Victory
bonds during the last drive
The presentation will be witnessed
by Secretary Daniels, Admiral Rod
man, and a large gathering of spe-
cially invited guests of the feet.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
PRINCE Of WALES
REACHES CANADA

ST. JOHNS, n. F., Aug. 12.-
The Prince of Wales arrived here
this afternoon from England, aboard
the British battleship Renown, and
was given a tremendous ovation by
the populace. From the dock he
was driven through two miles of
streets, gaily decorated in honor of
the occasion, and lined with admir-
ing crowds
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
WILSON EXPRESSES
SYMPATHY IN WIRE

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug .12.-.
President Wilson has forwarded a
message of sympathy to Mrs. An
drew Carnegie, expressing his keen
regret over the loss of one of Am
erica's greatest men. THE death of
Mr.. Carnegie" the message read.
CONSTITUTES a serious loss to the
forces of humanity and enlightened
public service"
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
OUTSIDE GROCERS
MUST LOWER RATE

CHICAGO, Aug. l2.-Oficials of
the federal food administration have
announced the establishment of a
price of - cents pound for sugar
This is a cut of four cents under
the price charged by many grocers
in this and other cities throughout
the country
The price of -four has been fixed
at SO per barrel.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
TROOP WITHDRAWALS
ALARMING RUSSIANS

ARCHANGEL, Aug. II. - The
withdrawal of the Allied troops from
North Russia is the cause of grave
apprehension in this section, the
fear being expressed that the loyal
Russian soldiers will be unable to
fight off the Bolsheviki unassisted.
The Archangel municipality is now
preparing an appeal to the Allies to
leave sufficient force here to in
sure protection against Bolshevik
aggression.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
DANIELS IS GOING
ON HONOLULU TRIP

LOS ANGELES, Aug. II. - As
part of the plan for the temporary
separation of the Pacific fleet, or
ders have been issued by the navy
department for the departure of the
dreadnaught New York and four de-
stroyers for Hawaii. The vessels
are to sail Immediately, it is under
stood.
Secretary Daniels will make the
voyage to the islands.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
COMMITTEE FAVORABLE
TO A. MITCHELL PALMER

WASHINGTON, D. c., Aug. 12.-
The senate judiciary subcommittee
has recommended the confirmation
of the nomination of A. Mitchell
Palmer as encouragement of the
United States.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12
FLEET DUE AT SOUND
EARLY IN SEPTEMBER

SEATTLE, Aug. 12.-The Pacific
feet is scheduled to arrive here on
September 7, accompanied by Sec
rotary Daniels. After short stay
here, the warships will proceed to
Tacoma, and later to Portland.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12

Commissioner A J. Griffin, peram-
bulating commissioner of the Fourth
division, left Fairbanks this morn
ing for his headquarters at Rich
ardson.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12

Mr.. and Mrs John Strom and
three daughters left for Fairbanks
on the launch Peerless this morning
and will travel from, that town
overland to the coast. They may
locate at Valdez.
The Nenana daily news. (Nenana, Alaska) 1918-1921, 1919-08-12

zenan., Ala.ia's Interior rue, Dsps.
The daily Alaska citizen., 1919-11-11
PRESIDENT, BAKER AND PERSHlNC ISSUE STATEMENT ON EVE FIRST
 ANNIVERSARY OF ARMISTICE DAY

WASHINGTON, Nov. lO-(HO-Three of the na- on's leaders issued statements tonight commemorang the anniversary of the signing of the arnstlce one year ago. President Wilson, Secretary Baker and General Pershng commander in chief of the American armies m France each gave statement to the press repre- sentaves in this city, all of them being teegaphed thru out the country.
 President Wilson said, ''Ihe day will be filled with solemn pride in the heroism of those who died Tn serVlce their country. The nation will not be lacking Tn gratl ude the victory made possible by their sacriice
 General Pershing's statement said 'The practical patriotism of the American people during the war show led their firm adherence to the principles of free govern ment."
 Secretary Baker, in his statement, declared ln the name of dead and living brothers, we hope for an early accomplishment of those terms of peace that com pete the work which they glorously began on the battlefields of EurOpe.'