davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Buyers Arrived
buyers invited register this column
S243 between 10 N. m
Women's Wear and Millinery

AUGUSTA. Can. A. Vok Company
". y. Nolk. women's ready to wear; Marl
borough
RALT1MORB.-Armstrong Gator & Co. :;
J. Is. Hill, flowers and feathers; 707 Broad
way, care of Max Herman & Co.
BALT1MORE-Shapiro & Herman; H
shapiro, ladies. misses and Juniors coats;
LTIMORE-Stewart & Co.. Miss e..
A Bennett. coats. suits, dresses, wraps and
waists West Thirty seventh Street. top
floor
BosToN-Chandler & Co; Miss L. Otis.
women's SUITS 230 Fifth Avenue.
BOSTON-Conrad & Co: Miss K. Des-
'Shs Miss su Kieen HsFs presd
dresses; PA Fifth Avenue.
BOSTON-R. II. Stearns Co.; Miss NJ
petticoats; 22o Fifth Avenue. -
srIs1 BsuFFALo-sSgist cadts sh,gd s & Fraley: b
and lzmonos 2l2 Fifth Avenue, Goth floor.
Experimentation Millinery Co
DETRoIT-G. Yost, women's wear;
LITTLE ROCK. Ark-M NJ. cohn. A.
,. C9hn ready to wear; J. NJ. Biggins,
oNEoNTA, \. Y.--B. sisson. women's
FHILADELpH1A-L W. Hirsch Co.. NJ.
Hirsch. waists 470 Fourth Avenue. Bres-
PInLADELPHIA-M I. NJ. kaufman.
brodered undergarments Of highest grade
Hotel McAlpin.
PlTTSFlELD, Mass.-Pipshitz: Mr Pip
shit, ready TO wear: Perly Buying AS
sociation. 1851 Broadway.
G.. PlTTsF1ELp. Mass, = Baine Millinery
Store; l.. Baine. ready TO wear; Perly
Buying Association, l16l Broadway.
ROANOKE, va. Spiegel: ]. Spiegel,
ready TO wear: 1851 Broadway room 500.
ROCHESTER,. n. Y.-B. Forman & Co.;
NJ. Epstein. dresses; 225 Fifth Avenue;
Colling wood.
ST. LOUlS-Famous & Barr: Miss N.
+. Brown, kimonos. huuse dresses, muslin
underwear; 81 West Twenty sixth Street.
room $40.
ST. LoUIs-scrusgs yandervoort &
Barney Dry Goods Co; Miss E. A Gil
pert, corsets. infants wear muslin under
wear. French underwear. knit underwear;
225 Fifth Avenue.
TROY, n. Wv. II. Frear e. Co. e.
NJ. Powell, cloaks. suits and wrappers,
Continental
TULSA, Okla.--J. L. seidenbach ready
to wear; 3O3 Fifth Avenue 18th floor.
WASHINGTON. D CS kaufman,
ready TO wear; Pennsylvania.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Not Much Demand for
Steam Engineering Supplies

Manufacturers of steam engineering
supplies and specialties yesterday re
ported an almost complete absence Of
demand despite tho fnct that prices
have been reduced as far as tie high
cost of labor Will permit
One of the largest manufacturers of
this class of goods stated that lack of
labor to undertake the work of digging
foundations for buildings was one of
the principal factors retardng the re
sumption of building operations La
Dor for this and similar work, he de-
cared, is scarce, because of the de-
parture of so many thousands of for
eigners during the last four years and
also because of the fact that those
who have remained have been able to
command high wages in the munitions
plants and are reluctant 10 return to
their former occupation.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Labor" Too Costly TO Waste
On Unna0xkefnbIe Products
Movement Is Started in the Dress Industry to
Eliminate Unprofitabl lie Output in Order to Get
Most Out of the a. Hour Week

of the total production of the industry.
We must turn this overproduction of
unsaleable garments into really desir-
able merchandise and furthermore we
must produce this merchandise ahead
of time, before our customers order
it. If we can accomplish this we will
so stabilize the industry that the work
ers will be able to earn as much in the
forty-four hours as they formerly did
in forty-nine hours, and the manu-
facturer himself will reap larger profits.
The recorders on highly saleable gar
ments will be larger and the industry
instead of working only in seasons will
come nearer working all the year
round.
"By beginning work on dresses for
the coming seasons earlier than we do
now, and this will be possible if we
know beforehand that every garment
we make will be saleable, and by work
ing later in the season because of the
increased recorders, we automatically y
lengthcn our working periods
Mr.. Benedikt's plan for the elimina-
ton of undesirable merchandise is
simple. It consists of gathering the
retailers, the garment manufacture RS
and the textile manufacturers as we'll
s the fashion publications, all the
elcmentS having to DO with the pro
duction and sale of garments, together
into cooperative group. This group
will study all phases Of the industry.
The retailer can tell the manufacturer
what will sell and what viii not. The
fashion publications can inform him
on the styles. The dress manufacturer
in turn can tell the textile producer
what fabrics he wants, so that the
latter can concentrate on the produc-
tion of those fabrics and thus insure
an adequate supply The garment manu-
facturer will not be forced in the mid
die Of season to turn to substitute
fabrics because the material he wants
is not being made in sufficient guam
titles to cover his needs.
In this manner, Mr.. Benedikt believes
the dress manufacturer will be able to
produce nothing hut salcable mer-
chandisc and Will be in a position to 20
ahead with his manufacturing for any
given season much earlier han he does
at present.
The idea has been taken up by the
Associated Dress Industries Of America
and committee has been appointed to
obtain the cooperation of the other
elements necessary to the frution of
the plan.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Business M0nev

The commercial paper marnet fell
to an unusual state of quiescence yes
tcrday. A number of bank buyers were
preparing to take long week end
holiday, and left early days Stock
Exchange holiday means that call loans
made Yesterday carry over until Mon
day. This is probably as long as call
loans ever run before being renewed
AS the bulk of this business could be
placed at 81 per cent yesterday, the
banks seemed to prefer placing as
much money as possible in them, and
manifested little interest in CONNER
cial paper.
While the New York market was fat,
an active market was reported from
W cstern centres.
Rates were unchanged yesterday
from the level of the last few days.
Some brokers now assert that most of
their paper goes at 5A per cent. That
is the rate obtainable for prime names
with short maturities. 1t is probable
that throughout the market most of
the names are still at 51s per cent,
though it is not impossible that, owing
to the fact that the names which com
mand 5 Il are those of the larger firms
with larger borrowing requirements, a
greater amount of money is loaned at
the lower figure than at 5l3 per cent
One Of the curious phases of the
present market, from the business
standpoint, is that the few firms which
do want to borrow are not greatly con-
cerned over the rate. One of them told
his paper broker 10 go ahead with
his borrowings at 55, but the broker,
knowing he could get 514 if he tried
told his customer he would not place
it above that rate. All this has inter
esting bearing on what would happen
if money were to become easy after
the Victory loan is out Of the way. The
usual effect of easy money is to stimu-
late borrowing. Business determines
how much it shall borrow by how much
return it can earn on the money it
borrows. The cheaper money rates are,
the wider this margin becomes, and
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Canton Raw Silk Trade

The Canton OF South China raw silk
district in 1918 produced only 81 500
bales of silk, against $4,000 bales in
each of the two preceding years. Ex
ports of raw silk, waste silk, and CO.
coons last year totallcd S9145 bales,
compared with S0,S93 bales in 1917 and
80,656 bales in 1916. Floods in June, July
and August reduced production, dam
aged the quality of the product, and
retarded full operations by the rcelers.
Japanese competition, especially in the
United States, also hampered the South
China silk trade last year But exports
of waste silk to the United States in
creased to 33,347 bales from 1888
bales in 1917, and this together with
the lessened production prevented d
serious decline in prices
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18

I ABOR has become too costly to be
expended on the production of un-
profitable merchandise Leaders in
the dress manufacturing industry are
confronte With the necessity of keep
ing up their output in the face of a
shorter working week. For this rea-
son it is proposed by It. s. Benedikt,
president of the Drozwell Company,
inc, to enlist the cooperation of all in
terests associated with the manufact-
ure ard selling of dresses toward the
elimination of wasteful productions
From % to 80 per cent of the dresses
made up in the trade every year are
now classed as pups" or "stickers,"
trade terms for merchandise which viii
tot sell unless the price is greatly re-
ducod. The reason for this, Mr. Ben
cClkt asserts, lies in the method of
production. When the dress manu-
tacturor puts out new line for a COM
ing season he is at sea regarding the
fabrics that will be fashionable To a
somewhat lesser degree he is not clear
ON all the liNle points of style 1t is
proposed to eliminate these unstable
garments DN giving the dress manu-
tacturor clearer idea Of what ha must
lrotuce to please the popular fancy.
Something must be done to make up
tor the loss of five working boars a
week if the industry is to survive"
SAID Mr.. Bcnedikt yesterday. "Produc-
ton can no longer be increased by
overtime work, as it is too expensive.
10 my way of thinking, overtime was
a trade evil from the day of its incep-
tlon. 1t is reasonable to believe that
worker cannot give his task 100 per
cent efficiency during the day if be or
she has been working inordinatcly long
hours the day previous.
while ] doubt if bringing more
workers into the industry would solve
the problom o. production, it isn't pos
siblc TO DO so at The present time. For
seVera ven, because OF the war.
there has been on INN gration TO this
country. and Immigration was the
source Of almost all of our labor. Ma
tFe Amercans do not take kindly to
The Industry
There is but one course left open to
the dress manufacturers. They must
eliminate the overproduction of un-
desirable merchandise. which in the
past has been fully 25 or 40 per cent
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Colors
Foreign Dealers Send
Requests for Sample
Lines OF Dvesiufs

Less domestic demand for dyes was
reported yesterday. but orders for OK
port were fair. Requests have come to
cral sample line OF colors.
Inactivity in the domestic market
is expected TO give place to better
buying after the signing of tho peace
treaty. The present lack of demand
for dyestuffs resulted in a large cur
tailmcnt in the textile industry. 1t is
assumed that a fuller resumption of
loom operations will take place with
the settlement of international condi-
tions and heavier orders for colorng
materials will follow.
Orders were reported from South
American consumers for acid blacks
and navy blues, for cotton dyeing pur-
poses. Paranitraniline, used for max
ing paints and for coloring cotton
prints, was also in demand by foreign
buVorS
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Cingham Sale Next Week
stores Throughout the Country
viii Push American Products

Leading retail merchants throughout
me country will participate in the cam
paign to push the sale Of ginghams next
week. In preparation for the concerted
drive ginghams have been literally dis
played in the windows Of retail stores
n all parts Of the United States, and
many Of the stores VIII have their
aaleswomen dress in ginghams during
ne sale.
Dealers say that women have learned
% appreciate gingham as dress fabric
ne goods being durable and washing
we'll. Styles or designs have been
worked out by the mills with more
care than heretofore. Women may now
select anything from plain colors to
fancy Scotch plaids, all Of which are
produced by American mills. 1t is as
serted in the trade that the finest
American ginghame are just as durable
as the best Scotch product, and the
colors are every bit as fast. The cost
- the consumer is less.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
House Furnishings, Furniture,
Floor Coverings. Draperv

BR1DGEPORT Conn.-Row1end Dr.
Goods Co; G H. Clark. crockery ell
verw are housefurnishtngs: Dry Goods
Goods Co, J. S Breentng: upbolstarv
trunks hars. art goods. linoleum. carpets.
rugs curt aims; 4o4 Fourth Avenue
DAYTON. Ohio.-Elder & Johnston CO
}. Schwab. carpets. upholstery, draperies
and pictures; 230 Fifth Avenue
fREDERiChSBuRG Na.-W. A. Bell s
Bro. ". A Bell, house furnishings; Penn
sylvania ~
PH1LADELPHIA-N snelIenburg & Co. :;
A. A Lewis. floor coverings (basernen.)
1851 Broadway: Breslin
ROCH ESTER = Howe & Rodgers Co
turnlture etc; NJ. Butler. furniture and
houseturnishing goods: Commodore
UTICA y. Y.-Nfilne Home Furnishing
Co; w. H. Milne. carpets. upholstery and
furniture Marlborough
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Milliners Buy Narrow Ribbons

Narrow ribbons of silk and velvet
N the pastel shades are in great de-
mand among manufacturing milincrs
because of the "summcr- hats for-sum-
mer"ear' movement, according to one
OF the leading merchants in tho ribbon
trade.
Marrow ribbons lend themselves al =
mlrably to the light straw and sheer
fabric hats designed especially for the
summer season." ne said. "and within
the last few weeks the calls on US for
ribbons of this class have bee. cx-
tremely large"
Marrow velvet ribbons in pink, o,-
ch'd, nlle green and turquoise are in
particular demand at present.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Cheap Leathers Being Exported

Through the lifting of the import re-
strictions on leather scrap, including
upper leather pieces and sole leather,
by Great Britain several days ago tan
ners here have found an outlet for an
accumulation of the cheaper grade ma
terial which had no ready market in
the United States. Several weeks ago
the British embargo was removed from
wax splits, rough splits and sole leather
offal, as we'll as buff hides suitable for
upholstery purposes. This action has
resulted in the shipment of immense
quantities Of these feathers to Great
Britain and the consequent advance OF
the price of offal in this country
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Active Season in Summer
Dresses Is Anticipated

While the drcss industry is not mal,-
ing a cooperative campaign for real
summer season, such as the millinery
trade has inaugurated, the manufacture
ers individually are preparing for q
summer season such as they have never
known before.
Some of the leading concerns report
that retailers have already placed
large orders with them for real sum
mer dresses. While the cotton voilos,
organdies and similar distinctly sum
mer fabrics are used in making these
new dresses, the lighter silks and some
new fabrics, principally silk and cotton
mixed, are coming to the fore strongly
One Of the new silk and cotton mate
rials is pedu-j jour.
Summer dresses are made up in all
styles, giving the women greater op-
portunity for individual expression Of
what they believe to be Fashionable
and in good taste
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
| atin.American Countries
Buy Heavily in Cotton Fabrics

Exporters Of cotton fabrics reported
Yeotefday that Cuban merchants had
cent in far SIZED orders for satcens
and fabrics suitable for mems suits
N~1ico haa bought more freely than
N recent years. Dealers in Hayti we're
reported AZ having placed orders for
denimg and fancy glnphars. Central
America's pprcharcs of shcetings were
fajd N be quite liberal, and Colombia
bought qpan1stioa Of duck. II was pre-
oicted thai ArYenfi Will become
yood customer wHcn labor difficulties
in that country are finally settled But
u was stated that the merchants Of
int conptry, many If whom cancelled
eontsActs after November u laat, WI
rot enjoy the credit terms formerly
accorded them.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Credit Uncertainties Check
Export Trade in Leather

Uncertainty as to the credit stand
ing of new foreign customers is said
to be holding back big tanning con-
Germs from doing export business. One
tanner reported yesterday that he had
received many inquiries from Japan,
South America, Italy and France, but
that no shipments could be made be-
cause customers in these countries
wanted the leather forwarded under
financial arrangements that could not
be considered by the American com
pany.
"If We had the means of checking
the credit of these foreign companies
We could clean out OF stocks in short
ORDER said this tanner.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Orders for Swiss Watches
Booked for Christmas Trade

Importers Of Swiss watches have al
ready started booking orders from Job
bers for special import numbers to be
delivered next fall in time for the
Christmas holiday sales. They say
that jobbers have been showing in
terest in platinum cases and there is
every indication that the demand for
this type of case Will increase. The
military or strap watch, which was
bought in large numbers last year, is
now being replaced in popularity. some
importers declare, by the bracelet and
ribbon watches for women. While
prices Of Swiss movements have ad-
vanced recently, the Importers saw that
the increases have not been large
enough to affect sales materially
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Mems Wear

BALTIMORE-E Cohen Company; E.
Cohen mems furnishings: Herald Square
LANCASTER, Pa--B. Wolf, mems wear:
eMiDDLETOwN. y. Y.-Charles woln.
Inc. c. Wolff. mems and boys clothing
and furnishing goods. bags, leather goods
and umbrellas: Continental.
nICkFORD. Nt.--D. \. James Com
pany: u. n. James, mems furnishings. etc.
OMAHA. Neb.--Berg Clothing Co: A. c.
johnson. mems clothing; Pennsylvania
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Wearing Furs
Once Reserved for Royalty

Better Russian furs are coming into
this country as a result of the over
throw of the Cars government. Under
the Car tho finest sabies and other
furs were reserved for the use of the
royal family and their friends and only
the poorer grades were exported to
other countries. Few of the finest
sablcs, known as "crown sables." ever
got outside of Russia except as gifts
of the royal family Even thee Grown
sables" are now being shipped from
Siberia to this country.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Portray Fashions of Old as
Incentive for Modern Desion

AS present modes in womens ap-
parel. jewelry and household decora-
tions are copied largely from historical
periods of the past, the forthcoming
April number of "The Bush Magaziner
will be devoted largely to presenting
styles and designs in garments, fab
rics, laces, jewelry, silver plate and
furnishings current in past centuries.
A series of plates have been copied
from the fashion library maintained
in the Bush Terminal Sales Building.
collected at cost Of about $4,000. OF
particular interest are the reproduce
tions of Directoire styles, the fashion
foundation for many of this years gar
ments, and the old chatelains, which
are now in demand as articles of per
sonal adornment.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Raw Silk Demand Broadens

Buying Of Japanese raw silk ex-
panded yesterday, and some of the i'm
porters reported that manufacturers
had abandoned their long practised
plan Of buying for nearby delivery 1T
was stated that some orders had been
placed on which deliveries would not
be made until August next. The Chi
nese markets were reported to have ad-
vanced, chiefly because of buying for
shipme Mt to the United States
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
French Silks Reach Importers

French silks which arrived this week
on the steamship Rochambcau have
passed into the hands of importers.
These goods were being unpackcd yes
terday, and probably Will be shown to
the trade today. 1t was reported that
much or the material has already been
sold to American buyers Mt high nricce g.
But some Of the Importers who form
erly had French connections frankly
said that the imported wcnvcs were
too expensive for amy aave the
Weather American consumers.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Trade Note

". " Smith, general manager for
the T. Contemeri Company, Who loft
oarly lat month for M extended trip
through The European glove manufact-
ur.ng ccnfrcs, is now in Switzerland
ID search of glove leather. Mr.. Smith
haH already visited England and France
and has sent back some interesting
reports on conditions in the glove
manufacturing industries of thosc
conntflcs. Before returning to New
York he VIII inycstigate conditions in
Italy.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18

the greater becomes industry's induce
ment.
The acceptance market was excep-
tlonally poor yesterday Dealers
bought only few bills and sold fewer.
Call money at 5a4 per cent was not
higher than in recent days, but banks
were doubtless influenced by their
ability to get the rate until the begin
n1ng of next week. All the dealers
remark that the banks don't seem to
have much money.
Fifteen to sixty day prime trade ac-
ceptances were quoted at 5G5L per
cent; sixty to ninety days, 5Gl51a per
cent; Endorsed trade acceptances, 4la
per cent, all maturities.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Reduces Contract Obligations

WASHINGTON, April 17.-Obliea-
tions of the Bureau Of Aircraft Pro
duction were reduced more than four
million dollars during the week ended
April 5, bringing the total Of cancelled
and suspended contracts of the bureau
since the signing of the armistice to
$500 679,617
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
blockade OH Fiilluauia Lifted

Acting concurrently with other gov
crnments, the War Trade Board has
ruled trade may be resumed with
Lithuania, the Baltic republic. This
means that the blockade of exports
and imports to the republic Of Llth-
uania hss been lifted..,.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Offerings to Buyers

DRESSIS-1oa ts~etNs for immediate delivery
ST - 10 50 ~. CcNfury Dress 4 Shir; Comrsny
so last :Sth Al. Madison Square l3s5.
sHOfS.-Hoieet Western. made IN large ausntit,cs
and varieties frr expert. Elias Rerlow. 40
Duane St Phone 500 Worth
CAPFS. DOIMANS COATS SUITS Jobs snarpy
styles 10 close out AT very low prices s. s.
s5 West eth 81. third noor
sb. 900 pounds washed hog hrzties for
hrush manufa cturers Beckcr Anstcr-
dam. n
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18

retailer of French gloves pointed out
that the imports for 1918 were 100000
dozen pairs less than in 1917, and that
the imports this year are expected to
be about 100000 dozen pairs less than
in 1918. Thus in two years our n,-
ports Of gloves will be decreased by
more than 35O,OOO dozen pairs.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-18
Basic Comm m0dities
April II. 1919

CNoeln those where reported tho "bsn
pnc arc
The West Virginian. [volume] (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1914-1974, 1919-03-11
Evening Chat
A Community Kitchen.

There is a movement felt plainly in
the United States toward Tightening a
woman's work in the universe-the
endless cooking, scrubhing, cleaning
and other household duties which
must be done whether or no. Some
women feel that their men do not I'M
derstand that being tied to a house
means the doing away with many Of
their striviEgs toward broader edu-
cation. | think as a whole, most men
do understand and are anxious to re-
lieve the women they care very much
about from The drudgery which seems
so necessary if one is to have we'll
kept. comfortable home. In London,
particularly, now that women have
gained the vote, national kitchen has
been established and it looks very
much as though it would become fix
ture. This kitchen can buy to better
advantage, can be equipped with eX-
pensive money saving machinery that
the average household can't afford,
and can employ skilled help to prepare
the many dishes at greater saving
than can single home.
1t is surely true that in order to pre-
pare food which is both appetizing and
we'll cooked one must have experience
and talent for the work which most
women find little time to cultivate.
Where there are many children, 1t Is
almost out OF the question to keep
the food end of the days program from
conflicting with the countless numbers
OF small, important duties which a
mother faces every hour of a too
short day. Why then require hundreds
of women to spend many hours day
buying preparing, baking, cooking and
serving the necessary meals which
could be prepared at much better ad-
vantage and of much better quality in
community kitchen run scientifically
by half dozen.
Remarks and Methods.
Public kitchens in London started