Evening star., 1919-12-14
They May Influence the Garments Worn the Street-Fench Use
of Leather Has Suggested Tailored Suit of the MaeaFanne
Is Revived for Bolses-Mongolan Fur Uncued Is Favored

tailored suits and hats with rare
plumage.
This deelopment has induced the
coat makers to add peltry to brown
leather and to design jackets that car
ry their own skirts and can be used
with other skirts of cloth.
Flannel, in it's heaviest weave, has
appeared in other costu:.:es than those
to be worn on the beaches of Califor-
mia and Florida. Mongolian fur. curl
ed and uncurled, has drifted down.
ward from sumptuous evening wraps
of panne velvet to plaid motor coats
that are intended to give hard serv-
ice; and what is more suitable for
wind and rain than the hair of a
sturdy Chinese goat?
Heavy silk jersey has been snatch ed
back from oblivion solely because it
is needed for sport clothes. Paris has
never relinquished it's hold on this at
tractive material. but her dressmak-
ers have decided to useTt for dinner
and restaurant frocks at the hour
that we decide to put it into gar
open-air activities.
DuNetyH, d IdUTlC tHdt threatened IN
the early autumn to overrun every
other fabric and eclipse it. has found
place in skating clothes. 1t is too
heavy for southern resorts. 1t goes
to Canada for the holiday season, and
in it's sport aspirations it gives new
ideas for handling as street cos
tune.
Nelveteen, strange to say, has not
appeared in the new garments. Prob
ably it was run to earth by the manu-
facturers who used it to turn out a
hundred gowns in short order for
those who had less than $50 to pay
for a grown. 1t fills the street, and
much of it is rusty and cobwebby. 1t
flaunts itself in imitation of early
Italian frocks, Of early English gowns,
Of the regal creations of a certain
house In Paris. and, therefore, has lost
its flavor. Women continue to buy
frocks of it, but the motive is too
often economy. rather than a desire
for distinction.
1t used to be a favorite fabric for
sport clothes, but its social struggle
for recognition seems to have killed
human companions! If we are as per-
verse in the near future as in the
past we will wait until next summer,
probably. to reinstate it. along with
fox neckpieces. for hot-weather wear
Would you like TO know few of
the details that are embodied in the
output of the dressmakers who have
been working since November for
fashions that are not the same as
those exploited in September when the
Paris ones arrived? They are intend
ed for the vagabonds. the caravanists,
those who run from climate TO cli-
mate, but they are to be copied in
clothes not intended for Anything but
home consumption.
There is leather suit. for instance.
that is far from the ordinary and is
not in keeping with the ornate leath-
er clothes exhibited by Paris in Au.
gust. You may remember that the
French designers built evening gowns.
wraps. blouses and skirts OF parfo-
rated kid. some white, some colored.
This was the most conspicuous nov
city of the sumrner openings. 1t was
shown at many houses. and success
was prophesied for It; but success did
not come.
The French women may be wearing
it now, but they showed little inclina-
tion to take it up when l left Paris
the Americans did not even glance
at such frocks. Leather as a trim
ming and as sport fabric, however,
is established. and this is sufficient
result. Women who had bought leath :
er coats last winter got them out
when they found that the new ones
were selling at over hundred dol
lars; they put fur collars on them
and found themselves. with delight. in
possession of garment that ranked
at the top.
They have made these Jackets serve
for the street for by buying a rough
cloth skirt in soft coloring to add to
the coat, they have saved the price Of
new tailored suit, and the price this
season is beyond the limit set by the
most extravagant. Marie Antoinette
and Catherine de Medici would tninl1
they had lived in vain If they coull
- hear these prices quoted What a
queen could not pay in those centu-
ries Is now paid by working women.