The sun., 1919-09-21
n. MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON.

BY Manila oOoS f>a'NSoN'
-,HE demand for the practical and
II very smart one piece dress Of
u serge or tricolette has In no
xay sbated. Indeed the new models
n this sort of frock are so charming
a well as so serviceable that no ward
,oba Is complete without at least one.
s.rre seems to have had its day. at
hast for the early fall and spring, for
al this time the newer duvetyns and
,r,colettes are raging up and down the
land.
IT Is hardly possible to describe the
beauty Of these one piece frocks.
When one has said they are OF either
n the two materials mentioned and
that they are of the chcmise type
much has been told, but to appreciate
f,ily the beauty and charm OF such q
dress one must see It The trimmed
Rms prevail in the smartest Of the new
roodels. In fact every dress. Of what
ever nature, reveals this fashion of
adorning the hips. This is done either
BIZ so arranging the draperies that they
ave the desired extended line or by
plscing fringe, pleats, braid or frilis
IN decidedly extended effect along the
hips and down the sides.
Curious Model Finds Favor.
oFAsre is one curious model which
has attained a certain following which
has waist and skirt cut all in one with
no break whatever at the waist line.
the whole presenting a perfectly fiat
hack and front. At the hips the skirt
/. extended In a wide finre, suggesting
pockets which stand well away from
he body Of the gown. Except for the
line Of buttons down the back or an
occasional string belt this gown shows
no other trimming. Obviously It IL for
the very slender, since the curved and
more developed figures will not appear
10 advantage In q gown OF such
straight up and down effect that the
skirt is little wider than the bodice.
Doubtless we shall grow a little
tired Of the emphasized trimming on
the hips, but at this time II is well TO
recognize the fact that this sort Of
trimming is a distinct feature In the
one piece gown.
AS 1t is still too early for outer
wraps the coat dress simula ting
Jackets or longer coats is ideal when
developed in navy blue serge or duve-
tyn or tricolette. The latter fabric
will probably be superseded as the
season advances. except in those cities
where the climate permits lighter
weight fabrics than the woollen.
] have observed a very charming
coat dress OF dark blue serge with q
tight narrow underskirt Of the serge,
ankle length, and over which there
hangs a tunic of the serge somewhat
fuller than most we see. The upper
part OF this dress has a short Etor
Jacket faced down the front with scar
let broadcloth, and this Is toned dowr
with black soutache. The scarlet
cloth forms q rather narrow vest and
belt extending all the way around
the waist. The sleeves are long ant
tight. OF the coat type, ana button al
the wrist. This 10 an ideal morning
dress for shopping or other practica
street wear. Soft fur collars OF fox Oh
lynx are worn with this kind of dress
French styles Nodded.
The duvetyn frocks are particularly
lovely this year. They do not follow
closely the French abbreviated sleeves
and skirts. though the general idea o,
the French dresses, uncorseted. ioost
and scant, has been followed and mod.
med to suit the American wearer
Many OF the duvetyns have deliberately
embroidered motifs on the skirts
some have aprons Of the cloth thickl,
stitched with contrasting silk in goot
designs which enhance the beauty o.
the dress. They all have for the mos
part the new square cut neck, no
nearly so decollete as earlier models
were, and the sleeves may be short o.
long as preferred II short they reacl
vel to the elbow and flare. The longe
sleeve Is OF the most tailored coat typ
and buttons at the wrist. Some of tn,
makers do not adopt this method O
closing a sleeve, but place the button
higher up than the wrist, SO that al
invisible seam is thus formed and tn
COCO line Of the sleeve IL not affected
Fringe, ruffies and ribbon are to b
reckoned with this fall. AS to tn
Itlnge. many Of the Partisan gowns O