davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

started by two actresses, nut especially
by Mile. Mistinguet, who seems to have
succeeded to the priority claims OF
Mile. Eve La VALERIE The latter. II 10
said. has entered O convent since the
war. thereby following out. In true
temperamental French fashion, the
example Of the famous woman Of tho
eighteenth century whose name she
took and whom the American public
chiefly remembers through q bit Of
around the neck.
while II pleases the milliners. Is not
especially welcomed by the theatre
going set who constantly dine In pub
lie places before going on to the rest Of
the evenings gayety, and therefore the
season may usher in a struggle for
and against this new fashion. The
odds are that the majority will ac-
Dept II.
The American woman, who II moro
closely akin to the French woman
than France knows, Is peculiarly fond
of a hat at all times. Her English
sister has q peculiar dislike for the hat
at all times. And one often wonders
II the like and the dislike arc actuated
by the beauty or the ugliness OF the
hair.
The English have wonderful hair
The Americans have not. But on the
other hand the French not only have
exquisitely groomed hair but also a
genius for the coiffure; yet they con-
stantly and continuously hide 1t with a
head covering after o'clock In the
evening unless they are in a private
house. Even then they are apt to 40
cept this new fantastic head covering
introduced by Mile. Mistinguet.
Those who watch the trend Of events
closely are prophesying the return OF
the jewe.led cap OF Juliet 1t does not
present itself SO far in harmony with
the high head dressing that France
has adopted, just as she has taken UP
with the high crowned hat for evening
except when she 10 copying the Span
ish fashion.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

1t is not confined to young girls and
to sensational young matrons. 1t is
adopted by women with gray hair.
is taken up by the stage. It is even
Initiated by the most fashionable Golf
feurs Of the hour. A woman must
,ook as though she had short hair even
II she did not have the courage to cut
1t off. All this is the influence OF the
Directoire, and as long as women have
short hair they must have 1t con-
stantly curled at the ends. Some
adopted the permanent wave. but they
md that short hair looks better when
its ends are curled up on the iron.
What will the milliners do, however.
with the bobbed head Of the early Ma
poleonio era They are puzzled over
this question. The reason for their
anxiety is that evening hats are def
Initely In fashion. and although
woman may swathe her head in a Pal
estlne turban or put her Roman
wreath Of victory about It and con-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

tinue TO have short hair, the huge pic
ture hat needs long hair to give It q
proper setting.
The milliners need not really fret
themselves about this condition. for II
Is quite evident that the vast majority
of women. especially the older ones,
will not cut their hair. The large hat
will. therefore, have sufficient votartes
TO give 1t place in the sun-or rather
In the electric light.
At the fashionable Southern resorts
as we'll as in the smart New York
restaurants there is no attempt by the
women Of the hour TO make the hat
part of the gown either in color or
in suitability.
For instance, with the lowest frock
OF cloth Of gold or silver will be worn
an immense black Spanish hat that
has a pink rose in front a gown Of
pink and white crystal with mere
shoulder straps and three inch sleeves
Of pink tulle will carry picture hat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
BUTTONS IMPORTANT AGAIN

the buttons OF the spring. To be sure
we have had carved wooden buttons
before, but these are different. Some
oil them are carved in flower designs,
and others are quaint affairs with lit
tie copper nails driven into them.
Leather buttons and wooden but
tons made to look like stamped leather
are going to be popular, and there will
be some made OF silver and gold and
semi-precious stones. One made OF
silver filigree shown in the sketch has
~ tile tail by which II rs Sewed on.
Jet has taken a dash into popular
ity, and we will not only wear jet slip
per buckles and jet bead fringe and
jet dinner caps. but we will have Jet
buttons as well. Some OF the Jet but
tons are made UP OF beads sewed over
a mould.
Among less expensive buttons arc
quite a good many sorts OF bone or
composition with large holes, through
which the buttons are sewed into place
with big strands Of bright colored silk.
Sometimes the holes on these buttons
are placed not In the centre OF the cir
Gle and sometimes the buttons them
selves are irregular in shape.
There seems to be no limit to the
way buttons are used on the new
frocks; and especially characteristic OF
the advanced spring clothes are the
hats that show buttons as part OF their
trimming. In fact, buttons now are
just as important an accessory to the
milliner as to the dressmaker.
Rows OF silk covered buttons form
the only trimming to an interesting
little toque for spring wear The but
tons. as big as hazel nuts. are pertly
fastened along the top OF the toque.
and another row Is fastened less pertly
In among the folds OF silk at the bot
tom OF the toque.
Buttons are used Interestingly in
another hat. They are big bone but
TONS and they are arranged about the
crown of hat in buttonholes Of the
hound variety. Each button IL half
through the buttonhoie, so. of course,
only half Of It show2
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
Napoeonc Trban Spanish Styles Victory
Wreat Of Gold Leaves Some the Novelties Being OeredFhon
of Bobbed Locks Worrying Hahdesses More Than Mhers

themselves to the social conditions of
life, which spells success anywhere. in
any field of endeavor. no matter what
the obstinate individual may argue.
In the centuries that preceded this
one the couture was the significant
part of a woman's toilet II reached
its height under the rule Of Marie An
toinette. And in the eighteenth CEN
fury hair dressing became 80 integral
q part of the costume that 1t made
famous such women as Rose Berth.
The gown. the wrap. were never as
significant as the couture. The latter
was changed weekly and It reflected
the moods and passions Of the hour
the panorama of historic events. Hats
were not worn. and all the raw mate
rails that could be impressed into the
service Of hair dressing were eagerly
grasped. But, and here Is the main
point, there was no sanitation at
tached to these methods. Women who
gave three hours Of their morning and
probably two hours of their evening
TO the arrangement Of the hair which
vas built upon an immense foundation
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

THE significant features in MILL
merry are the Introduction OF
- the Napoleonic turban which
the women OF Napoleon's day took
from the ancient lands he invaded. and
the adoption Of the Spanish hat in
ancient and modern guise. Naturally
Spain and Napoleon were very much
mixed UP, but there Is no record that
France adopted Spanish millinery or
any type of Spanish fashions during
the early part Of the nineteenth GEN.
fury.
Exactly why we have adopted them
to-day Is not clear. 1t could not be
said to have started overnight, for two
'or three OF the dominant French de-
signers brought out decided Spanish
fashions the first year Of the war.
These were followed by other gowns
hats and wraps. Little by little the
Spanish type of dress crept into the
social phases of fashion.
This season, and especially this
spring, we will wear number of
things that smack of Seville and are
reminiscent of Madrid. The lace
fiounce will return, and even the most
casual student of the history Of dress
knows how Spanish that fashion Is.
The immense tortoise shell comb placed
outward from the side of the head Is
.theatrically Spanish. for instance, and
Il Is revived.
The long colored shawl which Is
thrown over the bare arms has re-
A,,x to tatx M
10 worn by women of this hour as 1t
was by those Of the Directoire.
There is a strong effort to bring
back the round toed fat slipper, and
you see smart women with flesh coll
ored silk stockings and black slippers
in the afternoon and evening when the
gown Is not excessively formal.
The placing of the rose ON the Shout
DER at the waist, or at the knee on
net or lace tunic is another Spanish
fashion that has persisted in France
for two years. Cabot and Lanvin are
both lovers of the Spanish styles and
have exploited the rose in SO emphatic
y fashion that Americans have taken II
Up. It was quite a natural sequence
of events. therefore, that the mill
liners should see in this tendency
toward Spanish fashions a chance to
introduce the most picturesque Of all
hats.
This has the fiaring brim Of lace or
tulle with its fulness of lace at the
edge Of the brim. its floating veil of
lace and the inevitable red or pink rose
in front.
There Is another novelty in millinery
quite theatrical in its effect and yet
Spanish in its source. This Is the use
OF long earrings Of jet or crystals at
tached to the side Of the brim to hang
down over the ears.
II these were placed on the wrapped
turban Of satin or net they would be
more reminiscent of Spanish pirates
than Spanish ladies' 1t Is probable
that this Will occur to some milliner
or individual woman during the run OF
the fashion. and we will have n chance
to see the immense hoop earrings
dangling from a pirates turban Of
scarlet or yellow satin.
Paul Poiret tried to make the pirate
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

Of black tulle with a Jet band around
the crown. The odd part Of II is that
the women at these fashionable places
do not wear the gorgeous turban,
which would be a moro harmonious
addition to their glittering evening
gowns They leave this to the women
at the theatres.
Milliners advocate these turbans
not only for the play but for those
who dine at restaurants before going
TO the theatre. No one can wear q
large hat inside the theatre unless
one sits in a box. The removal Of a
hat In the evening Is far too Irritating
q performance to be met by any
woman with even slight degree Of
amiabllity. Therefore she goes bare
headed or she adopts the Eastern tur-
ban; II she is an extreme individual
she experiments with the new French
head dressing, which consists OF Jewels
and feathers.
This Paris fashion, by the way, was
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

hairdrcssers, while they have hoped
for return to the ornamental couture,
have met the demands Of women and
hygiene by giving their best efforts
and ingenuity to tonics, massage treat
ment, simple waving. They have even
taken up the Japanese method Of
shaking the hair as though It were a
bag Of feather pillows each day, then
pulling 1t strand by strand in order to
better the circulation Of the scalp.
The process of washing the hair has
become as intricate and scientific as
the process of building It up In the
eighteenth century. Whether or not
women have any better hair for the
reason OF this is not known through
statistics, but surely women must have
cleaner scalps than in the days when
they slept In the towering edif1ce
which the couture built up after the
manner of an architect.
Now. leaving the hairdressers bur-
dened with trade. and having no cause
for complaint, there comes to their aid
over the horizon the growing fashion
for short hair
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
ALL ABOUT KITCHEN TOWELS

: matter Of fact this heavy linen.
such as is used for kitchen towels, is
not so frightfully expensive at the
present time, and somtimes you can
pick up few yards Of material that is
part Of a pre-war stock at a very
good price.
To be sure. there are almost as
many different opinions regarding
kitchen towels as there are good
housekeepers in the world. Some
women use nothing but linen towelling
for glass and china, and some think
cotton Is Just as good. Some use one
sort Of towelling for glass, another for
and some use the same sort for all
three. Some swear by roller towels
for hand towels. and some think little
towels are the only sort to have for
that purpose. But whatever the diff
ferences Of opinion may be. they only
go to show that there are a good
many fright ways OF making kitchen
towels
Don't Waste EnersH
There is no necessity for hemmins
kitchen towels by hand. They do their
work Just as we'll II they are hemmed
by machine. And there is no ueces-
sity for marking them by hand. You
can buy tape with your name In II
for very little money. Or else you
can mark the towels with your name
written in indelible Ink. II you use
indelible ink It pays to get a special
marking tablet-a little sheet OF tin
three inches across. with little hoop
to slip over the material which Is
stretched across the tin sheet. II
you have no little tin sheet stretch
the material In embroidery hoops and
slip some smooth object under the part
to be written on.
The simplest sort of hand embroid-
cred lettering can be done In outlin-
ing and cross stitch. but unless
w<sDssA has few outside interests this
marking is a waste Of time.
For and Against the Roller.
The argument against the roller
towel is that part OF II Is soiled be-
fore tho rest is and therefore a partly
soiled towel must hang for several
days until the cleaner parts have
been used. The argument In its favor
is chiefly one OF laundering. A roller
towel takes less time to iron than
half a dozen small towels--and at the
steam laundries costs only as much as
one small towel.
Washing.
Towels used in the kitchen should al
ways be rinsed in moderately cool
water and then washed in hot, soapy
water. Then they should be rinsed and
dried In the open air. II time IL
at a premium they need not be ironed.
Probably this laxity would shock many
careful housewives, but a clean towel
dried in the open air is quito as useful
for drying dishes as one that is ironed
smooth.
One clever woman always saves the
coarse sacks that sugar and salt come
in-the big ones. She rips the side
seams and hens the ends and uses
them for towels for pots and pans.
A doCs clothes line, which comes
with half aS1zen tiny clothespins and
two small pulleys, is a convenience for
drying kitchen towels. 1t can be fas-
tened from the kitchen porch TO a
nearby tree, and extra clothespins can
DO bought for a small pric&
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
TNHE story goes that a band Of
Indians once refused to become

TIME story goes that band OF
Indians once refused to become
= Christians because the mission
airy who had nearly converted them
could not explain to them why the
white man had two apparently useless
buttons on the back Of his coat. To the
Indians II was obvious that there VII
some symbolism connected with thi,
bit Of ornamentation and 1t doubtless
seemed to them thst~ unless the mis-
sionary were learned enough to ex-
plain this he was a false teacher.
Now there really Is reason for
those buttons on the back Of a mans
coat. 1t is sometimes explained that
they were put there originally so that
one might conveniently tie up ones
coat tails when riding. But truth to
say there Is no rhyme nor reason in
the arrangement OF buttons on many
OF the spring suits and frocks. To be
sure, sometimes they outline a panel
edge or follow the seam OF a sleeve
so as to make a simulated closing, but
sometimes they are present without
any such pretext OF usefulness.
Buttons are going to be immensely
important In spring clothes. II you
have read descriptions OF the suits and
street frocks shown In the Paris open.
ings you know how important they
have become in France The person
interested in tracing the inspira ton
for this button vogue to its source
might hazard that the war had had
something to do with II, and that II
was because OF the time honored as
ISOLATION OF buttons with military
uniforms that women had favored this
fashion. But. truth to tell, the buttons
on the uniforms have not been par
ticularly striking. and there is abso-
lutely nothing military or near mill
tary In the way the buttons are used
IN wo1cn's clothes now, Nor are the
buttons suggestive of the military but
ton In the least.
Perhaps the carved wood buttons
that have already become quite the
.Eake In Paris viii be the most novel Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
Odd and Interesting Light
On Bits of New Fashions

ARTS Is creating a vast amount
- of unusual ribbons, which are
to be used on gowns. for hats
and as trimming for spring wraps.
Many of these ribbons are stamped
with animals and with human figures
They are taken from old tapestries.
They are crude peasant designs, which
were worked out on Brittany and Nor.
mandy cloths in ancient days.
This most amazing design. and Paris
says It promises to be exceedingly
popular is one Of playing cards. These
small designs are placed in groups on
the ribbon. It Is difficult to see just
how this ribbon can be used. It Is
rather conspicuous: but young girls
will probably make hats of 1t or use 1t
for sashes.
Romeo ribbon Is revived. II Is used
as a facing for the fronts Of these new
coats which are fastened with only
three buttons at the collarbone and
hang open to the hips. 1t Is also used
IN the wide, medieval sleeves, that
are so often called Spanish, and that
carry brilliant Innings.
There Is a disposition to wear
matched hats. They are carried on by
the young and the brave. but they
should not DE attempted by thsl I'D and
the timid. There is a possible sugges-
ton between these new hats and the
Directoire. There Is no doubt that the
latter era is cropping up faster and
faster in this postwar epoch, and the
matched houses in Paris, where there
was so much rivalry day and night
during the plrectoire, may have been
the inspiration for this new idea In
millinery.
There are high Chinese turbans COW
cred with tiny strips OF straw or grass
There is shredded straw placed like
paradise over the brims OF taffeta and
straw hats. There are bee hive tur-
bans that are covered with shredded
straw dropping downward to the eyes
from a fiat bow in the middle of the
top OF the turban.
It's a curious fashion. and in keeping
with the revival OF straw braiding as
an adornment for spring gowns and
coats.
The recrudescence of splendid ar
tistic work in ribbons has amazed the
country since the French importations
arrived. Evidently we are to have a
season Of splendor in this accessory.
The designers must have flched some
secrets from the seventeenth century
These ribbons have gone far beyond
the designs in other fabrics. They are
go IL. Al
and silver net. and are stamped In
designs and colors which If they were
on pottery, china or brass would be
museum pieces.
The fashion Of the French dress
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

makers to make a simple, soft gown
without trimming. in order that 1t may
prove a background for an enormous
sash OF this glorious ribbon, shows
what France thinks of her new
achievement in the, art Of weaving.
There are hats made OF the ribbon.
wraps Of It, and net and tulle gowns
owe their brilliancy to its beauties. It
Is very wide and Is not supposed to
serve as a simple touch; It Is intended
to be the whole thing on whatever
garment II appears It is useless to try
to describe In limited space the various
designs on these ribbons. They fill the
counters Of the exclusive shops and
they arc placed In glass cases and
slightly unrolled, which surrounds
them with the dignity which BELTS
them. French blue. deep scarlet.
cherry red. Chinese lacquered designs
and cathedral window colorations ap-
pear over and over again in the best
weaving.
The metallic ribbons are really ex-
quis!te because their gold and silver
mesh flashes like the chain armor OF
the Crusaders. The tissue, even
though II Is metallic. Is so supple that
1t n softer than silk and upon it are
placed many designs In color that ap.
peal to the creator. There are many
bayadere stripes, because the French
have taken. this particular design
from another battlefield, as part OF the
first fashion OF the day.
The new gowns worn during the
time OF the Peace Conference in Paris
were lavishly trimmed with monkey
fur. This peltry has been dominant In
the fashions Of France for a year, but
America has refused It. 1t has no fol.
lowing here as far as the season has
gone, and II will be interesting to find
out II the new French gowns brought
over by the American buyers will have
this fur. and II the American women
will accept 1t or substitute more de.
sirable trimming.
Ostrich feathers are coming into
fashion as fast as spring weather.
One thinks of them more in relation
to winter than summer, but the milli-
ners do not allow their inspirations to
| be hampered by the calendar.
The long, heavy plume is used even
tn straw hats, but the majority OF
uliliiners prefer to make what they
call fancies. They use wheels and
tockades and buckles OF ostrich hues.
They SIRED the long feather and use
the fringe over the brims of hats, or
they make a shower OF II, like drip
Ping water, over the crowns. What
ever thy do. ono feels the power OF
! the African bird once more. He h..
come into lis own.
There tas been an effort to replace
the plumes by roses, but as far as the
season has gone the flowers are more
talked about than seen.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02
HOUSEHOLD HINTS

i NE InetnOus WHICH DrlnE snowy
Wilderness to muslin underwear
bring ruinatlon to silk UNDER
wear. and the laundress who does not
understand this fact finds herself In a
sorry fix on Monday night Rubbing
and boiling and starching and drying
in the sunshine-all tending to bring
cleanliness to muslin-must be avoided.
To wash silk mesh and crepe de chine
underwear satisfactorily prepare a suds
Of pure soap and soft water, warm but
not hot. If the water Is naturally hard
dissolve little borax In it. Then
knead the silk garments about In the
suds with the hands until all the dirt Is
loosened. Put them in one piece at a
time. as they must be Thoroughly
kneaded If they are to be thoroughly
cleaned.
II they are badly soiled they will
need TO be immersed In a second suds
bath.
After they are clean rinse them in
two changes OF clear lukewarm water
and wiring them gently dry. Hang
them out OF doors in the shade or else
in the house in an open window where
there is no sun. When they are almost
dry iron them. II possible iron them
with a piece OF thin muslin between
them and the iron. This method pre-.
vents a shiny gloss from coming on
the silk.
Some persons find 1t better to lei
crepe de chine dry thoroughly and then
iron it on the wrong side.
After the garments are ironed they
should be thoroughly aired before they
are put away.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

(REPE paper towels offer one
I means Of lessenins the work q
the laundress In the summer
or. II the laundry is done out Of the
house, Of lessening the size Of the
laundry bill. The towels. OF substan,
tial thickness s-e sold In packages oil
100 for so cents. Granted that they
can be used only a few times-somes
times only once-surely five Of them
would last as long as a freshly laun-
dered huckaback towel; and the price
charged in most laundries for washing
and ironing huckaback towel is On
cents. the price OF five paper towels
Moreover. the wear and tear which
the huckaback towels would otherwise
have is saved.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-02

NNE would say that the French DO,
signers had gone quite mad
this season in introducing
startling and curious designs on
fabrics. Whether or not a woman VIII
look well with these designs rollins
around her figure Is another question,
To make oneself into a canvas fol
japanese. Chinese and Persian pictured
is not altogether a high form OF art
To wear skirt that represents a Pen
sian hunting scene takes@r ftvado and
amplitude of figure.
Perhaps the newest and most amaD.
ing Of these designs is copied frort
Chinese work, but the name and thu
suggestion are purely French. The
design is called The Storks Of straa
bourg," and shows a flight OF storlo
on blue background. France leave
the Imagination to work out the idei
expressed.