El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1919-09-06


pride and satisfaction, while her rec
objections Of the various French wars
and interventions are anything but
pleasant
Anything like detailed description
Is beyond the limits Of letter. Aside
from the charm Of the aspect Of the
country as a whole, there are three
groups OF interesting material. First,
the cathedrals and ancient churches;
second. the museums Of the fine arts
and antiquities; third, other old build
ings and gems Of architecture OF the
middle ages, Roman era, or renais-
sance.
Look Like Americans.
There is little or nothing in the
dress or customs Of the people 10 at
tract notice, for the country is stand
ardized:" It is like all other countries
in its fashions and conventions. and
one must hunt long and In strange
places TO find anything typical OF
Spain after the manner OF the popular
travel literature. For the most part,
these folk would look altogether nat
ural and Indigenous in Cedar Rapids.
Iowa, or Harrisburg. Pennsylvania
As for the attitude and methods
Of the business community, they are
worthy OF the best American tradi-
tons. The merchant or banker Of
st. Louis, Chicago, San Francisco, OF
Baltimore would feel perfectly at
home here; the average New Yorker
would not
To enjoy thoroughly the cathedrals.
ancient churches and other remains
Of antiquity and the middle ages, in
GLIDING the period OF Moorish domin-
ion. il is necessary TO have an ele-
mental knowledge Of the history OF
architecture, OF the church and OF
the movement Of peoples. The pleas
ure is Of two kinds, intrinsic or
esthetic, with each experience and
that which comes from comparison
and study. One who toured Spain
without some grounding in the fun
damental data would soon become
bored. There are plenty OF books
armed with enough Information 70
enable him TO dispense altogether
with the guides in human Tor in
human) form who poster one to dis
traction II not Immediately and pre-
emptorily dismissed.
Cathedrnls Well Preserved.
In general. the czthedrals OF Spain
are better preserved in their print
tive features than those OF France.
Spain developed a Roman and Gothic
OF its own, though at various places
the French influence may be traced
There IS more old glass in Spain than
in France. and where attempts at
restoration Of the ancient architec-
tural features have been made they
are generally in keeping with the
structure. while France too often
ruined her old churches by modern
Innovations often lacking in good
taste and not worthy to endure in
art In Spanish cathedrals and old
churches there are a consistency and I
a vitality often absent in France On I
the other hand Spain has no Gothic 4
monuments to compare with the half
dozen most magnificent cathedrals OF
France.
Spain has always been noted for her I
stone masons and brick masons- To-
day. the workmen engaged in 're- /
old structures are in their 1
element and much OF the work Of /
restoration is altogether as wonder J
full as that or the ancients. including 4
even the most delicate and intricate
OF decorative forms in carved stone I
and stuccO, and reproductions OF the I
old Gothic that are marvellous in .
themselves. Most Spanish work Of I
restoration Is in the direction OF sim
plicity, and there is a constant ten
dency TO do away with the ruinous
introduced in the 18th I
18th and 18th centuries Everything
old that deserves to be saved is being
carefully handled to that end And
among the worlSmen themselves d
have discovered a spirit OF devotion I
to an ideal OF true art. that Is worthy
OF the ancients whose works are now
being given new life
4 progressive People.
Entering Spain by automobile /
through the Pyreness mountains. my
first stops were Jaca and Zaragoza-
IN Aragon- The region appeared much
like our own southwest. though with I
somewhat more general cultivation
very little ground anywhere being
left unused. 1 found good roads
water-power development and cleo
tricity in common use everywhere
Ny impression OF the people was thai
they live very sanely and comfortably
and are quiet, industrious. and pro-
gressive. There was general air Of
happiness and TRANQUILITY: the whole
family harvested the wheat. at work
In the fields at 9 p m. while it was
still perfectly light.
In ZaraEoza there was much anil
nation, Saturday night and Sunday
The streets were crowded. the cafes
all full. and wandering musicians
played In the streets. New buildings
we're going up everywhere. nearly all
of an architecture entirely harmonious
with all that was old and tested By
time There was no monotony. but
neither was there any concession TO
he too common desire to do some
hing bizarre There were evidences
II progress. thrift. comfort. and de-
sent government Everything to eat
including every kind Of delicacy. aD-
leared TO be abundant and cheap u
-ound in Zarag oza the first OF a SPLEEN
lid series OF public museums: every
own Of any size IN Spain has one
In Zaragosa there were extensive
md well classified exhibits in fine (
irts, archaeology, history. ethnology.
and architecture. with numerous /
exhibits lent by citizens for dis {
play There was also an excellent Z
permanent commercial and Industrial {
exhibit that was like a small exposi- .
ion itself, with samples and informa-
ion OF everything manufactured
here. as well as the raw materials
'eltef maps. models. processes, photo
sraphs. transparencies. etc
Home OF Former Kings.
Burgos Is one OF the most charming I
title cities in Spain. q Jewel. ike {
'egovia- Burgos was once the seat Z
u the kings OF Castillo The cathe- {
iral makes a harmonious and happy {
group; It is bright and almost new {
ooking, so Wen has Il been con-
erved- One may look into the old I
lobster through grills from the {
'treet- gracious offering Of the
reasure Of beauty to every casual I
'asser-by. There are many rare old {
buildings IN Burgos. with ancient s
walls and towers and forts from
loorish times. In the cathedral there
s a golden light pervading every I
hing. an atmosphere Of brightness {
md beauty. Some OF the carved S
tone lace-work IS as fine as jan Z
nese carved ivory. In It's effect on S
he eye There are some half million 7
ollars worth Of ancient tapestries in {
he cloister. The cathedral has a most {
impressive interior that remains IN S
ny memory as one OF the greatest !
ave seen
Burgos Is a fine, bright. happy. ]
'eautiful. friendly little city. where ]