Evening star., 1919-09-28

~ = sH<hha NaAoN tHclP uiFUtSS Teucn-
/ es It's widest dimensions, over the hips
Is statement that dismays the stout
est heart among. women.
II one wants tho Silhouette OF the
hour, as 1t Is shown in the new Paris
clothes. one can look at picture by
!. .'Yelasquez to get it in its EXTREMIST
form. but even then one will not have
gotten complete conception of the
artificial fgure OF the, woman Of the
hour as tits formed by Her new frock
The Spanish pannier, which, In it's
day, was a"humorous adaptation of
the large baskets balanced on each
/ side of a donkey, the commonest form
of transportation. and which one sees
today on Spanish and italian roads, is
revived. These panniers- We're initiated
in the seventeenth. century in zap
/ parel by sumptuous fabrics. and the
women of the court tried to rival each
other in the width Of the buckram
that .distended the hip line. 1t was
| not the era of the hoopskirt; that ar
tificiality gives a different silhouette
from what ia launched today.
The Spanish pannier is straight
distension of the hip line. which per-
effect to it's hem. This hem does not
flare. II is not as wide as the hip
line. 1t has a tendency to curve in
ward toward the leg. 49,
At some of the big houses. there are
not even any notifications of this
Spanish skirt Of. another, century:
splendid gowns are built of metallic
tissues, bullion fringe and embroid-
cries to reflect the extravaganza of a
day that left its impress on the whole
world. Other gowns merely admit
, the sway of the Spanish panpier by
Incorporating fullness at the hips.
There are few gowns that are fiat on
the hips. Jackets. long and short. are
arranged so that their 7fullness juts
out from the side of the waist line
and becomes overhangipg caves to
drapery of the skirt that also distends
the hip.
Crinoline is plentiful, but 1t is not
used at the knees or hem of skirts.
Its duty is to hold out the fullness
exactly below the waist. line, and, it's
mission done, 1t does not appear again
in the frock. This crinoline IS Of vari-
Gus kinds, not always cheap and COM
IIOupldCc, dS TIC UdH4C SuS q GSIS, UHl
often OF metallic threads that show
through transparent, fabric, and, in
disclosing their identity also disclose
the reason for their presence.
Each house has Its own way OF
handling the pannier. and one set of
costumes is. therefore, more graceful
than another. It takes a daring
woman to wear the genuine Velas-
quex skirt, but for the stout. the mid
dle-aged and even the conservative
women there are types OF clothes with
fullness at the hips that are very ac-
ceptable.
AS the season progresses dozens of
new methods OF obtaining fullness at
the waist line will appear. and the
silhouette will be modified. recaat and
will probably settle down into a safe
and sane fashion. At the present
hour 1t Is quite alluring, especially as
1t gives the American commercial
lists a new thing to offer.
1t is really not new: 1t was advanced
last February, and several months be-
fore American houses had determined
to demobilize the short ssoant skirt and
bring in those with the peg-top, out
line and the fullness that did not
disclose the actual measurements of
the hip.
The type OF fullness which is de-
scribed as umbrella folds. and also the
hugo pocket, gaping open at the hips,
and boldly ornamented to accentuate
Its presence. are old, features to the
American dressmakers. Therefore. q
great. deal OF, the new fullncss on the
hips which Is tho dominating part Of
thenew silhouette. as 1t is so-called.
Is familiar sight to Americans and
they will know how to manage 1t.
1t Ia barely possible. however, that
ones old clothes will do for this sea
SON., There may be chance for their
alteration. r
X Y 4 \
There is q. wide variety of clothes
shown in Paris and again one feels
the lack OF great leaders Of fashion
who sift the char from the wheat and
impress certain style upon the en-
tire public. Whatever gowns are
made with fullness on the hips. how
ever. are newer than those worn by
the French women all summer. for