davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05
mn FAVOR OF CAPE
AH-Covering Garment Is Kind to
the Figure.
In Some Of Its Phases Il May Easily
BE Fashioned by the Uninsplred
Dressmaker-look Smart

The long. all-covering cape remains
a favOrite with the up-to-date woman.
1t is tucked into the seasons outfit,
whether for Northern or Southern
clImes.
II is kind to the figure. this long
cape. 1t has such grace. such pictur-
esqheness, Is so easily put on and of.
and supplies such a comfortable extra
wrap to be thrown on over a suit that
its vogue Is readily understood. And
In some of its phases II maySeasily be
fashioned by the uninspired dress
maker. However. one must not allow
oneself 10 be deceived on that last
count. Some of the latest models. I'M
assuming in air, are extremely subtle
In cut and adjustment, and unless enc
can be content with a simple circular
cape ID is well to be sure of a good
pattern before undertaking a home
made wrap Of this order.
One OF the most popular Of the sea
sons cape models came out a little be-
fore the new year and has been copied
to the point Of monOtOny. yet IL always
manages to look smart, even though.
II is no longer exclusive"
1t has a full. vOlumInous body. at
tached 10 a yoke which extends half
the length Of the upper arm, forming
point shapes over the arm. There is a
large shawl collar which is draped
around the neck. crosses over In sur
plice fashion and fastens at the back
underneath the folds Of the cape. This
model is we'll adapted for summer
wear. as il leaves visible Mt the front.
from the waist down. a panel of the
pretty summary frOck.
One model built upon these lines
was made of gray silk figured in
soft rOse-cOlOred design.
In dark blue serge. white serge,
black and white checks. black satin,
gray serge. beige serge. etc, this cape
is very effective. and is fairly typical
of a large class of such wraps, varying
only i'm minor details.
Some of these capeS and cape-cOat
uiOueiS are Ol ulSliuCllN sporty CiiuI-
acter, built up in plaidS, black checks,
gay wool velOurS. tweeds and jerseys.
Others are designed more especially
for street or travel purposes, and
among these are some particularly
gOOd-lOOking duSt-gray models in fine,
soft serge or twill.
Paris is very fond of this material
and color for all kinds Of travel coats.
It is good. too, for u separate cape for
travel or mOtOrcar. long. aTxple, en-
velOping garment, warranted TO pro-
tect the frOck or suit beneath. But for
hard motoring a cape is not desirable
saw, perhaps, to afford extra warmth
or protection over a coat. The cape is
not taut enough. is prone to fiuttering
or flying folds and Tapping is the I'M
parlOnable thing in motor outfit that
asks TO be taken seriously.
Beige and the various shades OF
light brown are modish cOIOrs, too.
though Paris likes the dust gray bet
ter for this special type of garment.
and 1t Is more practical in the matter
Of resisting soil.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05

and on some OCCASIONS Al nome out
not In the afternoon except In the
sheerer materials.
sWe Aim to Please"
That there are. modes to please
every woman in whatever type she
may demand Is emphasized by two re
ports from the other side. One states
that theNAiaIscn Doeuiilet. in putting
forth the directoIre dress. followed
the original inspiration as TO the ex-
tent of the upcurving waistline at the
front. and anotherShouse shows waists
that dip downward ut the front In
point
Capes, say some authorities. are
going to be worn by the women who
know and suits viii be left to the gen.
eral public who do not know. All
very well for Paris. but one might as
well try to break the American woman
of the habit Of eating as to think Of
depriving her of her well tailored suit.
That the makers know'this q evident
from the fact that their suits are more
than ordinarily worth while. BullOz,
who has always had a leaning to the
directoire when there has been the
slightest excuse for IL, shows some OF
the snartest ones Of this type.
All Of the models Of this house arr
of the strictly tailored classification
The lengths are modified to suit the
wearer. hut the same general lines are
preserved throughout. The skirts are
quite tight and the coats are cut with
fiaring gOdet plaits In the peplum,
whether the latter be long or short.
Waistcoats are to be worn with the
majority Of the suits and are provided
with collars which run up very high
at the back.
DOucet ideas run counter TO those Of
some Of the other houses. No direc-
toire models are to be seen in this col
lection, as DOucet chgs to the old
straight line. and the suits are built
on this principle as well as the dresses
A slight concession to the general
trend may he found in the high,
square collars seen on the straight
kRee-length jackets.
The Tun1e Apron.
Premet tailleurs are enhanced by
the addition OF front tunic aprons but
toned down the sides. but otherwise
they are quite straight and simple.
The suit coats that are worn with
these skirts are three-quarter length
and may be cut away at the front, and
the collars and cuffs are of contrasting
coIors. The upper part Of the jacket |
is loosely girdled and the skirt part is |
made with the swinging directOire
flare.
Jenny prefers the knee-length jacket |
for her suits. which she makes of |
serges. Examines and covert cloth. |
These are shown with waistcoats of |
white faille striped in gold and of |
white Ottoman silk.
Doeuillet depends for chic on the
slash. which Is found in abundance on
the jackets and seen sing1y on the |
skirts.
Summing il all up, ii would seem |
that the skirts 10 the jackets will re-
main long and that the iacketS are in /
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05
coIored Neekwear.

New colored neckwear sets are L. -
Of oEgandie. They are the very OI'. -,
est bits OF neckwear that the s
have shown for a long time. Aan' -
them show fuckers to match the !.
lars, and some Of them show Guns
well. They are made In several ~ "a
shades Of both blue and pink u
yellow. an equally soft green anu :
lilac shades.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05
WHAT IS SHOWN
IN PARIS SHOPS
Directoire Dress, capes. Suits
and Other Apparel Dear to
Woman's Heart.
LINE OF LEAST RESISTANCE
Almost Everything Is Correct u II Fol-
IeWs Lines Of the Fioure-outer
Wraps Have Tendency to Ex-
aeperate Natural Curves

-As you WERE" says Paris. using
soldieriy language as the occasion de
mands. Fastening TO add, lest you
think her arbitrary. that is. IL you
wish" In the first instance she re-
fers to the pre-war styles. and in the
second to the fact that II these do not
please you there are plenty of other
fashions that are suited 20 your indi-
vidual taste.
Following the line OF least resist
ance describes the newest fashions TO
q peppermint. for as IL weary of con-
troversy the makers of fashions have
decided TO pick up the threads of the
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05

Many present-dsy fashions, with the
tendency toward long skirts and the
draped lines. are not 70 accurately de
scribed By the word youthful. but
there Is a sufficient number Of simple
modes 10 still permis the word youth
full to adequately describe . big per
eentaee Of new fashIons. 49,
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05
Showing Independence.

Evidently the public have the bit In
their teeth as regards few points of
the fashions 1t is clearly shown that
In the last few months there is no de.
sire for eecentricities or extreme ex-
aggeratiOns. That the women of
France have a great deal to say, par
ticularly the fashiOnables OF Paris. as
20 what win be taken up is sometimes
overlooked In the general admiration
Of the models put forth by the makers.
At the Paris opera lately when the Of
dcial ban on evening clothes was lifted
Il was noted that instead OF the bril-
liant clothes expected By the designers
and which they had prepared for
there was little display.
Streets In Paris are still dimly light
Cd. wounded soldiers are everywhere
and women swafhed In mourning serve
~ q background which throws even
the moderately bright clothes into sud
den relief. Hos. then. can the design
ers expect the women 20 wear the
brightest Of colors and the most ex-
trayaganf Of clothes? A certain
amount Of somber richness was dis
played. but the untrammeied extraya-
eance Of pre-war days was to be noted
eniy IN isolated cases In the boxes.
II Il said that the American woman.
IN Paris can be spotted easily By her
longer skirt and long. tight sleeve.
This order Of affairs Is about to be
changed and the ioneer skirt Il aboat
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05

The long draped lines and transparent
hem, together with the beaded
bodice, 10 suggestive Of the harem
and carried out in rose and French
blue, with beads of crystal and
pearl. The ostrich ornament for the
couture also Is of rose and blue.
1914 models and weave them into those
Of today, thereby pleasing. If possible,
everyone concerned. Practically. OBJ
serves a prominent fashion writer, il
works out in this way: Almost every
thing is in correct line IL IL follows
the lines of the figure. The fact that
nine-tenths of the makers voted for
the directoire modes strengthens this
conclusion rather than otherwise, IN
the dresses OF this period particularly
emphasize the lines of the figure un-
derneath, while the coats and oRter
wraps. aside from the picturesque re-
vers. have q tendency to exaggerate
the natural curves. That is the point,
that the human form divine is not abb
solutely straight up and down Is made
partially apparent.
The direetoire fashions were In the
air in 1914. but something interviewed
and the movement hardly progressed
further than the ydraped skirts and the
large reyers; this time further deveI-
Opments seem possible. Aside from
the fact that the directOire lines are
preferred, one may dress as suits ones
individual fancy.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-04-05

TO become universal As TO the ex-
tremeiy short sleeves. the American
woman viii wear them while In Paris
and on some occasions at home, but
not In the afternoon except In the
sheerer materials.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24

1t seems that we cannot say wrap"
this sedSOn without meaning ''cape" or
"dOlmaH. Yes. the doiman is with
US again. along with the cape and with
wraps in which the two are combined
into one. There is really a furore
in favor of these loose hanging,
graceful garments and no end to
the variations by which designers
make them interesting. Two Of them
are shown here, one of cloth and one
of satin, the first a utility wrap and
the second a dressy but very generally
useful wrap combination OF cape and
dolman.
The wrap at the left, of heavy cloth,
may be made of any good coating. 1t
is almost a cape pure and simple, with
Sits for the arms to which deep cuffs
are set on. 1t is cut with a deep
yoke, with buttons decorating it at
each side in rows. 1t has an ample
collar of the material and is recon-
mended by being comfortable as well
as stylish. 1t is very simply designed,
as these wraps go. and looks the part
Of a smart and servieeable belonging
in the spring wardrobe.
The satin wrap is one of the many
handsome models in black, some Of
them having collars and Innings in
silks of contrasting coIors. always in
quiet tones. This particular garment
is all black, with silk embroidery on
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24

Another way to avoid the turned-up
corners Of rugs is to sew a pocket of
some cheap material on the underside
of each corner; then slip in piece Of
tin, which you can have cut the ex-
act size at a hardware store. The
corners cannot curl.
The Care of Mating.
The broom. even the covered one, Is
not good for mating. and neither is
the frequent use of the wet cloth The
carpet-sweeper, used across the grain,
is better; and the vacuum-cleaner is.
of course. best of ALL But in be
tween the latter two comes the hearth
brush, which is a life-preserver TO the
mating and a labOr-saver to the
housewOrker. To go over a mating
covered room with a dustpan and one
of these brushes is a matter of only
few minutes. These sOft-hair
brushes, thus used, raise little dust; ;
they keep the mating and the cor
ners in proper condition, and they do
not rOughen and injure the matting's
surface Another merit is that they
may be washed without injury If they
are quickly dried.
To-Day Straw Mating Smoothly.
This is a hard thing to do as the
cheaper grades are. likely to get
wrinkled and to wear in ridges.
When you put the mating down. get
| it as smooth as possible; then, with a
pail of hot water, to which a cupful
of common salt has been added, mop
and wash the mating as if 1t were
! dirty. Use the salt water freely, renew
ing often enough to keep it hot. Wash
with the grain of the mating, and
leave it quite damp. In drying the
mating will shrink into place. The
salt toughens the straw and prevents
| it from breaking
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
ARTHuR E. RRANpT,
Corporal, Co. z, tssth infantry


Corporal Brandt, whose home was
with his mother, Mrs. W. F. Brandt at
POstyille, Iowa, won the Distinguished
Service Cross for conspicuous bravery
in action northeast OF Verdun, France,
October 16, 1918. After his company
had been in action three days. during
the attack on the Cote de ChatillOn
and was to be relieved, Corporal
Brandt volunteered to guide the COM
pany to a position Of security in the
rear which he had selected. While
the relief was being made under shell
fire, this soldier and four others were
severely wounded by a bursting shell.
Realizing that his wound would prove
fatal, Corporal Brandt while being car
ried on a stretcher indicated the route
to be taken by the company. being
wounded in the face and scarcely able
to talk. Through his extraordinary
fOrtitude and viii power, the company
was able to reach its position over
difficult terrain and under enemy fire.
Corporal Brandt died from his wounds
the next day
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
ANDREW g. LYNCH.
Second Lieutenant, 11oth infantry.

Second Lieutenant, 11Oth infantry.
Lieutenant Lynch was awarded the
Distinguished Service Cross for IN
usual bravery in action near ApremOnt,
France, September %, 1918. Lieuten-
ant Lynch while a sergeant on duty
with 81 MN. gun section of his COM
pany was moving the guns to a more
advantageous position when he learned
that the officer in charge of the party
had been captured by an enemy pa
troll. Organizing a group of five men,
Lieutenant Lynch Immediately at
tackled the Germans. killed 10 of them
and liberated the officer Immediate
" afterward Lieutenant Lynch took
command Of 70 men and launched q
cOunter-attack on the enemy, driving
him back for more than a kiIOmeter.
Lieutenant Lynch is married, his wife
living at 2446 Franklin street, PhiIa-
delphia, Pa.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
JOHN J. FARRELL,
Private, Company 3, s54th Infa

Private, Company 3, s54th Infantry.
Private Farrell (deceased) was dec
GRATED for conspicuous gallantry in
action near RemonEf1Ie, France, No
vember I, 1913. When the combat
group Of which he was q member was
held up by machine gun fire Of the
enemy, Private Farrell left the group.
Crawling around to the flank of the
nest he charged with his bayOnet. The
enemy surrendered and his comrades
took the gun, after which the advance
continued. Private Farrell was 50
seriously wounded during the combat
that he died before he could be re-
moved from the field. Paterson, n. J.,
was his home.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
REIDER WALLER,
Sergeant, Company A, 105th
Machine Gun Battalion.

Sergeant Waller was decorated for
conspicuous gallantry in action near
ROnsSoy, France, September q. 1913.
Sergeant Waller, in the face OF heavy
artillery and machine gun fire, crawled
forward to a burning British tank. in
which some of the crew were impris-
Oned, and succeeded in rescuing two
men. Although the tank was then
burning fierceIy and contained ammu-
milton which was likely to explode at
any time, this soldier Immediately re-
turned to the tank and entering it,
made a search for the other occupants,
remaining until he satisfied himself
that there were no living men in the
tank His home address is NOretrand,
Norway.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
COMPANY MUST PAY DAMAGES
Supreme Court UphoIds Verdict for
66,o7e.44 Against the coffeyviIle
Gas and Fuel Company.

The Coffeyville Gas and Fuel Com.
pany must pay the Ludowici-Celadon
Company. a roof thing manufacturing
concern, $66,O79.44, because it failed
to carry out its contract made in 1909
to supply the thing plant with gas at
three cents thousand cubic feet
The supreme court held that in case
it is shown a gas company purposely
withholds gas from a consumer and
does not exercise due effort to in
crease its supply. thereby forcing the
consumer to pay a higher rate, the
gas company is liable for damages.
The high court affirmed the decision
rendered IN the Montgomery county
district court
The tiling company was forced to
abrogate its original contract and pay
seven cents a thousand feet, and later
twenty cents. The judgment repre-
sents the difference between the g.
cent rate and the rates the plaintiff
was forced to pay. The plaintiff
charged that the defendant gas COM
pany and the Kansas Natural Gas
Company entered into a conspiracy TO
prevent the thing company getting
sufficient gas. The supreme court
held that the evidence of the plaintiff
was sustained.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
How's YOUR BLOOD {
PmRses and Ewtsons
Mean Bad Blood

People who have impure or impoTefs
1shed blood should be careful TO take
only Temperance remedy made of Wild
roots and baFks such as DR.. Pierce's
Golden Medical Discovery Is and has
been for nearly so years. Ingredients
printed On wrapper.
The first day you start to take this
reliable medicine, impure germs and
accumulation begin TO separate IN the
blood and are then expelled through
the eEminative organs
In place of the impurities, the ar
teries and veins gradually get fresh
Titalized blood and the action Of this
good blood on the skin means that PIN
pies, boils, czrbuncles, eczema, rash,
acne and all skin hlemisheS viii disap-
pear. Then you must remember that
when the blood is right. the liver, stom-
ach, bowels and kidneys become healthy,
active and vigorous and you Will have
no more trouble with indigestion, back
ache, headache
Get DR.. Pierce's Golden Medical Dis
covery to-day At any medicine dealers,
trial package 20 DR.. Pierce's lnYahdS
Hotel, Buffalo, N Y.
AtehisoH, KGns-''For 3 great many
years Dr.. Pierce's Golden Medical Dis
covery has been our household remedy
In one instance especially found it 70 b
wonderful When my boy was eonvslesc-
ing from scarlet fever he had breaking out
In blotches al over his body, face and
limbs One bottle of Golden Medical
Discovery completely cleared up his skin
and also proved splendid tonic. Person
ally have found the Discovery splendid
for bronchial troubles and catarrhal con-
ditions Mrs. N. E. Mails, 10 Atcb-
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24

the collar and in a simple pattern or
the cuffs. 1t is very full, with an
ample shawl collar and q sash OF the
satin, that loops over at the front and
is finished with fiat silk tassels at
the ends.
a little excursion through the shops
in search of wraps, leads one to think
that the end of these capelike gar
ments is nowhere in sight. There is
nearly no limit to the variety of in
teresting models which can be turned
out, and chances are they are due for
at least another seasons popularity.
A cape is never oId-fashioned looking
and the demand is now for full, man
tIe-like wraps. graceful and ample
that designers can vary to the limit Of
their ingenuity.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
SWAMP-RO0T FOR
KIDNEY AILMENTS

There Is only one medicine that really
stands ont pre-eminent as q medicine fcE
durable ailments Of the kidneys. liver and
bladder.
Dr. Kilmer's Swamp-Root stands the
highest for the reason that It has proven
TO be Just the remedy needed n thousands
upon thousands Of distressing cases
SFamp-Root makes friends quickly BE-
cause its mild and immediate eject Is soon
realized In most cases It Is = gentle,
healing vegetable compound.
Start treatment at once Sold at al
drug stores N bottles OF two sizes, medi-
I'm and large
However, II you wish to test this great
preparation send ten cents 70 Dr. KilmR
& Co, Binghsmton, N Y, for a sample
bottle When writing be sure and mE-
ton this paper-Adv.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
WALTER S. sEvALIA,
Corporal, Co. ?, 9TH Engineers

Corporal, co. ? IN Engineers.
Corporal Sevalia was decorated for
extraordinary heroism in action near
BreUilieS, France, November 3, 1913
Corporal Sevalia swan the Meuse river
with q cable for pOntoOn bridge, IN
der direct machine gun fire. Later he
carried cable for another bridge over
the Est canal, across an open field
covered by enemy machine guns. Here
he was wounded by q machine gun
bullet, but returned carrying q mes
sage Of great importance. Corporal
SeYaIia's home is In Brule, Wis
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
GEORGE S. RoBs,
First Lieutenant, s6sth Infantr.

First Lieutenant, 369th Infantry.
For conspicuous gallantry. beyond
the call of duty, near Sechault, France,
September % and 80, Lieut.. RObb
was awarded the Distinguished Serv-
ice Cross. While leading his platoon
in the assault on Sechault, Lieut.. RObb
was severely wounded by machine gun
fire. but rather than go to the rear for
proper treatment, he remained with
his platoon, until ordered to the dress
ing station by his commanding Off
Ger. Returning within fOrty-hve min
utes, he remained on duty throughout
the entire night, inspecting his lines
and establishing OutpOStS. Early the
next morning he was again wounded,
once again displaying remarkable de
votion to duty by remaining in com
mand of his platoon. Later the same
day a bursting shell added two more
wounds. the same shell killing his
commanding officer and two officers
of his company. He then assumed
command of his company, and organ
lied its position in the trenches. Dis
playing wonderful courage and te-
nacfty at the critical times, he was
the only officer Of his battalion who
advanced beyond the town and by
clearing machine gun and shipping
posts. contributed largely to the aid
of his battalion in holding their OBJ
jectfve. His example of bravery and
fortitude and his eagerness to con
tfnue with his mission despite severe
wounds, set before the enlisted men
of his command q most wonderful
standard of morale and Self-sacrifice
Lieut.. RObb's home address is 3Oe
South Twelfth street, Salina, Kan.
where his mother lives.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24

vent1onal shapes Ike little diamonds,
or triangles, or simply leave them
''patchy." Cut your whole foundation
lining OF some thin stuff like silk mus
lin or net-if It be q scarf lining that
you are making-and then "jig-saw'
your patches on that Where Uniform
ity OF cut is observed the pieces may
be made even more effective by but
ton-holing or Misunderstanding them on
In black. Even the Irregular shapes
might be treated the same way with
equal effectiveness. Bright idea for
using up those pretty scrapsi
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-04-24
ALPHEUs z. STEWART.

Private, Company c, 10th Infantry.
Private Stewart received the Distin-
guished War Cross in recognition Of
soy, France, September %, 1918. Dis
regarding a Severe wound in the head,
Private Stewart fearlessIy advanced
toward an enemy machine gun nest
and put 1t out OF action with a gre
made a few seconds before he was
killed by fire from another machine
gun nest near by. His home was in
JOrdanton, Tex