The sun., 1919-09-19
An Arizona Rose Comes With.
out Skirts, Which She
Considers Vulgar.
MAKES HER OWN CLOTHES
Regards Corsets as Useless and
Also Refuses to Wear
Suspenders.

|
the West In a garb that should show ali
who have eyes to see that a woman car
be attractive, graceful and feminine and
yet absolutely free and untrammelied In
her dress. It should be said right away
that she doesn't call them trousers
| what she wears. She calls them harleys
with small a." Also II should be. ex-
planned that she is not dress reforher
She is woman who In her busy life as
traveller. lecturer and writer on human
itarian topics found skirts considerably
In her way, 50 she worked ont costume
which expresses her psychology. And
che doesn't advise any other woman to
adopt the costume unless 1t expresses
her Psychology too.
| Anybody casting a glance at MISS
| Harley--and those who cast one would
| cast several, and keep on casting them
as long as she remained In eyeshot-
| anybody, that Is TO say, seeing this
young woman as she moved yesterday
| along the corridors of the Hotel Nc
Alpin. where she Is stopping, would say
| Il wouldn't matter so much about the
psychology OF any woman desiring &c
copy her; the weight and specifications
would be the thing to consider.
Miss Harley herself was compelled to
| admit that her harleys and things would
be fatal on a fat woman who was be-
ginning to settle about the hips Miss
Harley is tall and slender, with the firm
and supple form of one who has lived
much In the open, and she appears en-
F, tirely unconscious that there Is anything
at all unconventional in her attire. But
that last. she says, is u matter of psy-
| chology Her clothes express her psy-
chology, and so she Is mostly as uncon-
scious of them as--to use her own words
Ia busy man, or a cat or dog, or 8
lion or tiger 10 unconscious Of the coat
he wears
Vision in white ana Red.
DR.. Mary Walker wore mems clothes.
Miss Harley has taken the items in
mems clothes which appeal to her good
sense and adapted them to herself in
| materials and with notifications which
| satisfy her love OF the beautiful and
feminine. Her costume when she met
rHE Sun reporter iwas OF white. In
some soft close textured wool material,
| with touches OF crimson. and since one
naturally on meeting n person looks az
the head and upper part of tho body, the
| first impression was of a good looking
young woman with her slender lines
loosely defined by a white blouse con-
! fined with a narrow high red belt. of
| soft swansdowu around her throat. Of q
whit hat Of the same material, fitting
toquclike over her brown hair, of a
| red parasol carried in her hand-of
something entirely feminine. In fact.
And then one looked down. and saw
the harleys.
She designed. cut and made them her.
self. she explained. as she does all her
clothes. They are trim and close fitting
except that they are shirred along the
outer seam. Miss Harley wears no sus-
penders. because she refuses to have her
body confined or dragged down by
straps. And she says her trousers-beg
pardon, harleys-never sag. because they
| At closely and are held up by her hips
OF course men. having no hips, are COM
pelled-but then this Is not a story
about mems sartorial affairs.
II believe" said Miss Harley when
| asked II her costume had attracted at.
| tention on the street, do believe that
l haven't had nearly SO many critical
hen glances from my sex when wearing
this sort of dress as have when APP
pearing In regular woman clothes that
| were three or four years behind the
mode. Always go in advance Of the
styles. never behind them. II you don't
want TO be criticised.
skirt n Term OF Inferiority.
II hate skirts for myself. The skirt
always has been a term of inferiority-
as when women are slangiiy called
skirts The skirt is a very vulgar gar
ment. II the wind blows 1t out or up the
form inevitably Is exposed. Now, my
legs'-Miss Harley glanced down at her
| trim members, neatly clad In her name
sakss with the small ''h''-"my legs can.
not be exposed. Not that am ashamed
Of them. God made woman with legs
as he made man. and why should she
be ashamed of them? But the present
styles. revealing while affecting to con-
ceal, are vulgar. and as for these one
legged trousers that women hobbie about
in, they are atrocious. But do not sup
pose that advise women to discard
| skirts. don't advise trousers for wom-
en-; approve them. woman should
study her own psychology, decide on the
sort OF dress that expresses 1t and then
wear 1t, instead OF letting style makers
exploit her for their own commercial
gain. You cannot imagine the comfort
mental and physical. OF having one style
| OF dressing and sticking to It."
Then Miss Harley proceeded to open
her trunks and closets and exhibit other
costumes she had made.
This is my general utility costume, p
she said. showing one OF khaki. II made
| IL the first month of the war, and wore
| Il all through the war doing recruiting
| work. and see how good 1t looks STILL
believe in choosing the very best mate
rial always, and 1 take care of my
clothes"
The utility costume consisted of neat
close fitting "harleys" and a jacket
very trim and smart Then she pro-
duced something very different-an
evening dress OF soft delicate crepe de
chine in tho palest pink. The harleys
were shirred at the sides, and the blouse
was very deiicately trimmed with lace
and came rather high at the neck.
Regards DecoIIete as Vulgar.
1.-THE fashion of going undressed down
to the waist in the ballroom is extremely
vulgar in my opinion" said Miss Har-
| ley. ''and yet women who consider them
selves very proper do II. Here is what
call my matinee costume. ! wear II
In my hours of ease. but I don't like
negligees, so as you see have evolved
something that can lounge In and
yet in which i appear dressed II callers
come"
The long blouse and harieys OF
the matinee were of French lowered
challis, trimmed about the neck with
| little roses which Miss Harley had fash.
/ Toned of pink silk and with a bigger
rose OF the same material at the neck
As an example OF working clothes
which a woman can wear in the kitchen
Miss Harley showed little suits of cling.
ham made with the neatest Of trousers
and little biouses falling over the hips
! Her underwear she makes herself
I arA fhA s1inUeria - ha ale the nrtr