davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
ny Material Fair Be The Short Skirts and Long,
Floating Trains Prevail in Frocks

always being OF some material much
lighter in weight and floating away.
as it We're, from the heavier fabric
underneath. Thus very handsome
evening gown OF black and silver
brocade which might in truth be
called a sheath" gown. II that sort of
gown were in" just now, but which is
III reality modified princess effect
has tho back from neck to shoulders
missing. A narrow band of Jet goes
over each shoulder and holds in place
a panel OF black tulle so hung that it
forms n graceful hood effect and floats
for at least two yards in a filmy train,
much as the effect OF brides tulle
veil would have If worn with a short
frock.
The sides OF the floating train are
banded with jet and the brocade un-
derneath is formed into little pointed
fish tail train much shorter than TIM
tuile. The bodice of this stunning
gown in front is a continuation Of the
princess effect and ends In a square
decolletnge.
No effort seems to be given TO con-
fining these draperies which l am call
ing trains. Certainly they are eX-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The body OF the gown, that is the
rather short skirt and what there is
of the front of the waist (for as l said
these are the days of vanishing backs),
is made of a silvery gray satin Of
rare quality and suppleness. The
skirt has no hem. which is one
OF the fancies of the hour, as the
width. OF the satin Is now used
for such purposes and the selvage
edge left at the bottom to form a
finish in place of hem. over the
skirt is drawn an apron drapery of
beautiful lace which stops just above
the knees in front. passes around to
form a cascade at each hip and ends
in an eXaggeratedly long train in the
back, made by sewing the two widths
of the lace together and down the
middle of the very long train. The
merest strips of lace and a silvery
chiffon Join back and front OF the
bodice. and the sleeves are straps OF
silvery beads. The lace I'm front makes
a bio TO correspond with the apron
drapery on the skirt.
The idea of the very short skirt and
the extremely long train is to prevail
largely in summer frocks, the train
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

though minus the train this time The
charming lace is used TO veil the
bodice almost entirely and to form
long, tight sleeves
Lace Used for Hats Too.
Not only is lace sought for gowns
and blouses. but many of the summer
hats are showing crowns and brims
entirely made of it. This is especially
true OF the black laces. Often one
hnds the brim Of n wide satin hat
split at one side for a wide insert of
some very good Chantilly lace. Again
flares of this sort OF lace wired to stand
mp stifily crown many wide brimmed
chapcauX.
And here again are lace fans in de-
mand. the sort we have not seen in
years and years, black mounted on
real tortoiseshell and real Brussels
and Honiton mounted on mother of
pearl sticks.
AS for real lace collars and berthas,
cuffs and gilets, few gowns are shown
without some bit OF unusual lace made
up into the above mentioned delights.
Yes, this is the day OF lace. If YOU
have any, inherited or otherwise, bring
it out and place it on your gown. Some
makers are showing funny little apron
frills placed just across the stomach
and finishing the front OF a bodice or
blouse, to appear again as sort OF
chemisette for the top of the blouse.
This method is a concession TO the
ubiquitous vestee.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

Some very new afternoon gowns
reveal tuniCs OF bands Of lace and
georgette put together with a thread
of beads between the two and hung
over a satin foundation.
one of the most delightful ways Of
using filmy lace is that of taking
wide hounce joining the two upper
edges together and thus obtaining a
great width with the same edge for
front ard back. An opening is left
about half way the length of this
flouncing. through which the head is
slipped and then the lace is cut into
becoming decolletage and lightly
caught in sketchy kmono fashion
to form sleeves. The whole thus has
the effect of a lace Jacket and is worn
over chiffon or taffeta gowns, or
lingerie ones If one so wishes.
An adorable taifeta frock which is
an excellent illustration OF the pleasing
results of the wise use of lace is
shown I'm Il lavender tafTeta afternoon
dress fashioned as to the foundation
as simply as a shlrtwaist dress. over
this is a tunic of soft creamy AlenCon
the lace arranged in front in apron
effect, much longer in the back
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
OR AND DRECTOIRE HATS LOOM AMONG SUMNER STYLES
Milliners' Displays
Bear Out Predic-
tons of a Flower
Season-Rough
Straws Popular

strip OF French blue velvet. In front,
squarely in the centre OF the flaring
back brim, is a coque head with blue
feathers smartly placed over the
crown. This Is an extremely smart
hat and one of the best illustrations
of our entente.
OF course we have heard it whis-
pered that this is to be a flower season
and the indications are that tho
whisper is true, for flower crowns and
flower brims appear everywhere.
One milliner is threading small single
blossoms along the upturned brim OF q
close fitting back straw. The only
other trimming Is narrow band OF
Franch blue velvet ribbon around the
crown and tied in fiat bow at the
back
An unusual hat. slightly suggesting
the Directoire, comes from Paris and
is made OF fine hair braid. The brim
dashes on in wide flare at one side,
in Amaze effect. The tell crown Is
packed with exquisitely shaded roses
placed in n good mass and interspersed
with soft brown velvet leaves. Along
the upper edge OF the brim goes a fold
against the straw.
Burnt goose fantasies ornament
everything. They are the stiff, fringe
like things one sees on every other
hat. One OF the unusual ways OF using
burnt goose appears on a Directoire
hat of rough black satin straw. The
goose ornament, mounted on a cockade
Of black -surmounts the very tip of tho
crown in the back and Ia faced with
the same sort of ornament so that the
little feathery fronds make sort Of
crown over the straw.
Rough straws Popular.
These rough, heavy straws were
among the first brought out and have
had great popularity. They are
much used on hats with georgette
crowns, the straw forming the brims.
All OF these are small. ose-fitting and
OF the so-called turban effects. How
ever, as we have advanced into the
spring season somewhat we see fewen
OF these round turbanlike hats and
more and more of the very narrow
boat shapefi surmounted with feathers
or burnt goose.
| Red. as l had noted before, is per-
haps the psychological revulslon as to
ones feelings-it Is so much part of
the summer fashion picture that we
are not surprised to find new shades
brought out all the time and given new
names, as for instance Wilson red"
"Mikado red" "henna" and Venetian"
II one wishes to express an ecstasy
OF JOY over the wars end. the hope Of
q normal world again, let the, Wilson
red hat crown ones head.
Venetian red is of somewhat the
same vivid hue. and AIikado and henna
are more subdGed and somewhat
browner.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

tremely novel enough to catch the at
tention and attractive enough to be
pleasing. on a black taffeta after
noon frock, for example, the skirt,
short also. is overhung with an apron
drapery Of black georgette. and this
drapery forms four panels, each
scarcely more than eight inches wide.
and each, depending from the sides of
the skirt, lies for at least yard on
the floor. This sort OF drapcry is in
PRODUCED to produce the effect of the
long skirts and actually giving the
comfort and convenience Of the shorter
ones.
Lace Scarf as n Panel.
A charming fashion OF using lace
scarfs has been introduced by making
them up as panels, banding with jet or
scintillating beads and hanging from
one shoulder in a gracefully draped
effect so that the length of the lace
forms the train. This is a particularly
good way to utilize the scarf of Span
ish lace such as one buys in Rome
when about to have an audience in the
Vatican, or at least brings home as IL
lovely souvenir Of the Eternal City.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

tional Society, n. A r., spoke on the
League of Nations. The delegates and
alternates elected to the twenty-eighth
Continental Congress of the National
Society were Mrs. Simon Baruch. Mrs.
Victor Frederickson. Mrs. II. c. Birch,
Mrs. ]. A. Jones, Mrs. Benjamin Lillard
and Mrs. A. II. Leary.
Mrs. Noble Mcconnell will give "A sup
per dance at the Hotel Aston on March
81 for Miss Hazel Rogers, a debutante
Of the season. Assisting in receiving
will be Miss Margaret McCandless, Miss
Clara McWilliams, Miss Angela Coch-
ran, Miss Bessie Stevens, Miss Marion
storey, Miss Irene Trumbull, Miss
Claire Lillian Peteler and Miss Grace
Hession.
The second of the series of four card
parties for the benefit of the East Side
Clinic for Women and Children, Mrs.
Noble Mcconnell president was held
Tuesday at the Hotel Astor. Mrs. T..
Bassford Schmalholz is chairman for
these card parties.
At the next social day OF the Theatre
Assembly, Friday afternoon at the
Hotel Astor. Mrs. ]. Christopher Marks
president, Miss Vera Myers will sing.
| She also will dance.
The Theatre Assembly Choral. of
| which Or. ]. Christopher Marks Is d.
/ rector, will have its next concert April
| 10 In the ballroom of the Hotel Astor.
, Richard Keys Biggs is organist of the
choral and Harry NJ. Gilbert accompa-
| mist.
Rehearsals for the Theatre Assembly
Follies. which will be given at the an
nual luncheon of the assembly on April
| 20. are being held at the Theatre As
sembly Canteen. DR., Marks has writ
ten the music for the follies and Mrs.
Marks the lyrics.
The Junior Art Society, Mrs !,
Christopher Marks founder, win give its
! monthly matinee dansante April 6 in
| the Rose Room of the Hotel Astor,
Rehearsals are being held at Leslie Hall
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

to what extent the first modes will be-
come the accepted ones. We can only
call attention to the fact that they are
accepted, at least for the time being.
l mentioned some time ago the
vogue of the three cornered hat. It has
not abated in the least. but seems to
have become intensified and appears
in many new effects. Unusual and
very becoming. for the most part are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

under the direction OF Mrs, James y.
Ballantine.
Pleiades Club. which now meets at
Reisenwebers every Sunday night. has
sent out rally call for this evening,
Irish night, on the eve of st. Patricks
Day. The annual birthday book OF
Pleiades also closes this week.
At Abe last meeting a feature OF the
evening was Amelia Bingham's i'm
promptu patriotic speech in the name OF
our American mothers throughout the
country. Duggold Walker. Jack Wade
and George +. Curtis told some new
stories.
Among those present were Mr.. and
Mrs, Stuart Blackton, Mr.. and Mrs.
Leonard Hill, Mr.. and Mrs. Noble Nc
Connell. Mr. and Mrs. Walter Pulitzer.
Mrs. Lola Powers and Miss Powers.
Jackson w. Quinn, John Noble, Edward
f. Foley. i. L. Spencer, Miss J.. b.
Englehart, Major c. S. Cole ard Com
mander Charles A. Adams.
A regular meeting OF the New York
Browning Society was held Wednesday
at the Waldorf Astoria. The business
session began at o'clock. and at its
close the programme was given 1t
opened with the singing of patriotic
songs. The subject OF the day was
Human Love" with Elizabeth Barrett's
sonnets from the Portuguese and Rob-
ert Browning's lone Word More" as the
poem for study. Mrs. Hannibal will
Jams read and spoke on the subject
Browning's Love Lyrics" with musical
settings were presented by the composer
Jena Branscomb. Patriotic and victory
poems were read by Martha Foott
Grove and Miles Dawson.
Presidents Day will be observed by
the National Society, Daughters of TBS
Empire state, at 3 o'clock Thursday
afternoon in the Cold room OF the Wal
dorf-Astoria Hotel. The officers to bt
Installed are Harriet Bishop Waters
president; Mrs r. Anna Purdy, second
vice president: recording secretary
Mrs. 'James,G. Blaine. and corresponding
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

secretary, Mrs William A. Gable. Three
new directors will also he installed, Mrs.
II. A. Hubbard. Mrs. Josephine Corey
and Mrs. John Sowaal. The speakers
will he Mrs Charles S. whitman. who
will speak on THE Reclamation Shop"
and l., Wallace Hopkins OF the New
York War Camp Community Service.
The music will be under the direction OF
Miss JWlia Seargeant Chase. chairman,
and Will consist OF soprano solos by Miss
Marcella Wheeler. barytone solos by
Kirk Towers and violin selections by
Nine. Anton Pecurarn
An interesting talk by-I.ieut. Bryan
Battey on his experiences In German
prison was given on Monday afternoon
at the regular monthly meeting OF the
Society OF New York State Women at
the Hotel Aston. The talk followed n
meeting OF the governing board. Mrs
Gerard Bancker presided.
The Womans Forum will hold a
meeting Friday morning in the Music
Room OF the Hotel Biltmore at 10 :45
o'clock. The subject OF the day will
be "Why Labor is Against Bolshevism'
and the speaker will be Peter W Col
Inns OF Boston, former president OF the
Boston Central Federated Union.
There will be discussion from the floor.
Miss Helen Varick Boswell will preside.
The nominating committee to prepare
a slate for the annual election will be
named
Mrs. oliver Cromwell Field. president
OF the American Relief Legion. has been
entertaining returned soldiers and sal
Tors at her home in the Hendrix Hud-
son every Sunday evening with music
and Rotations. She is assisted bv Miss
Mary Allen. Miss Amelia SummerVill
Mrs. w. u. Richardson and Barrett
Perrine.
On Monday. March II. at the Val
dorf-AstOria Hotel. Sororsis Mrs. Ben
jamin Prince president, will have its
ffty-hrst anniversary breakfast.
| Nine. Bel Rauska and the Drama Fo-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

the small three cornered hats or those
of Napoleonio flare, with the turned
back brims faced with close breasts
of birds. The feathers are mounted
so closely together that they have the
appearance somewhat of Angora or
brush wool and are very soft and easy
for most women to wear.
One three cornered hat, much ad-
mired, has it's brim bound with a tiny
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
Vogue of the Tri-
corner Intensified,
This Shape Ap-
pearing in Many
New Effects
" MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON.

A s to summer hats. two pro-
u nounced shapes have thus
n far made their appearance
the shallow crowned sailor and the
high crowned Directoire hat The
first named has swept every other
model aside, at least in this first
showing, for street and tailleur wear.
Tho little sailor Is copied from one
worn by a certain fascinating young
actress and bears her name. II Is
worn. too. perched on the head and
pushed forward slantlngly over the
forehead.
All of the trimming is placed at the
back, and as a rule is hat--now and
then hanging over and under tho mar
row brim and against the hair. Tho
little sailor does not suit every wearer;
It is extremely shallow as to crown
and very marrow as TO brim. but IL is
the sort OF thing that women who
pass quickly from one sartorlal fancy
to another adore, buy, wear. more or
less successfully, and then laugh at
themselves for wearing. 1t is piquant,
It is true, and that is often deciding
factor in favor Of many fads.
This sort Of petit chapeau is or Is
not deliberately trimmed. Some are
mounted with g. tumbling bouquet of
cock feathers, reminiscent Of the DASH
ing italian soldiers; again some have
soft and graceful ostrich plumes, one
placed above the narrow brim at the
back and a second just underneath
against the hair. The edges OF the
brim when so trimmed are finished
with tiny thread of jet beads.
Far More Dimcult to Wear.
Now as to the Directoire hats. They
are far more difficult to wear than
these wee sailor shapes, for they GER
tainly do not become every face. These
hats are reminiscent Of the poke bon
nets and scuttle shapes Of long ago
Tho trimming stands up stiffiy. Very
often this trimming Is several grace
fully curling ostrich feathers placed
upright with dropping ends in a way
VIC have not seen ostrich feathers used
in years. Again stiff outstanding bows
of ribbon are mounted. and this sort
OF trimming is excellent. especially
when the hat is chosen for morning
or shirtwaist wear.
Nothing has emphasized more per-
fectly our relation and devotion to
France than the Directiore hat and the
great demand for the cock head and
feathers SO symbolic of that gallant
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
w THAT to do with lace? Every
w thing. is the answer If we
can Judge truly by the signs

can Judge truly by the signs
of the moment, lace is to be the thing
this summer. Some new and enchant-
ing gowns for afternoon and evening
wear are exploiting the cobweb laces
in novel manner.
or course by this time we have re-
covered from our first shock at sight o:
the evening gowns sans backs except
for the merest strip Of gold or silver
tissue or a bit of jet banding just at
the waist line.
ITO think of gowns cut as low as
that" moaned a conservative woman
the other day, land all Of our boys
coming home from the war;"
Made of silver Gray satin.
There seems to be no attempt to soften
this extreme decolletage by bits of
tul,e or chiffon as heretofore, there
fore l am of the opinion that these
gowns will be left to the extremely
young. if they are accepted at all. This
is bit of depression from our lace,
though it will be seen that this sort of
dress is related, as one Of the most eX-
quisite frocks displayed Of late has
both this decolletage and quantities Of
rare and fine lace TO embellish it.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

republic. The Directoire period in
Paris brought forth many absurd and
unconventional fashions for women,
who let fancy run riot in the matter of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

clothes-and manners too. Indeed, in
Paris also at that time, French women
in fiutter Of sanity along with all the !
turbulence, frivolity and abandon of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
eta faced black straw

bonnet halls. Anyway, here II is in
America, and very fashionable and
very new.
OF course, none OF us can ever say
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

At the annual meeting of the Wild
owed Mothers Fund Association on
Thursday afternoon at Delmonico's Miss
Jane Manner will give reading Of
"Teller's wife" by Cosmo Hamilton
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

the period, became entranced with the
modes in England and it is from the
tight little island, rather than the gay
French capital, that the Directoire
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16
Avoid Acids and Poisonous Drugs.
SUPERFLUOUSH HAIR

quickly and permanently removed without
sca ring, stationary multiple needle. warts,
Moles and Btrthmarks psinlessly removed,
Nine WALKER, ! West Sith uresley-2S6S,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

Hotel Pennsylvania March 2g. The
president OF Wilson College Or Ethel
bert ID. Warfield. and Mrs Warfield will
be the guests of honor, also Miss Eliza
beth Riddle, president OF the Alumne
Association. Miss Eva Whiting White
will be the speaker OF the day. Mrs.
Ralph L. Lloyd is chairman OF the com
n1ittee In charge.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

rum will present The Slave with Two
Faces" The STANLEY Quartet will fur-
nish music. Harry Q. Hlrt at the piano.
A programme of much interest was
given at the regular monthly meeting
Of the Congress of States Societies orr
Thursday at the Hotel Astor. The
president of each affiliated club gave
thu work OF the State she represented
the programme was devoted to par
liamentary drill.
Savoral sneol,ors q, rrorriporcc will
r,olsa aIdrnsss, ~ ,ha annual rarforsor
Iinno. 90 ,Lo vyor,on.. nen1ocratir Cluh
trrtS "a a.. IIr,oi ,,,,,,,roIo,a NJ
cnoraa II Chnds nrosidort ~ tho Ohm
,.,,t,, a. ,o,,,, ST. Crnsb, and Mrs.
Char,ss n Jtirst honorary nresdents
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

Elizabeth Marbury, who is chairman Of
the league, is cooperating with these
women. Among those who assisted the
hostesses last week were Amelia Bng-
ham, Miss Grace Fitzpatrick Mrs. Jo-
seph Slevin Jr Miss Virginia TIylan.
Miss Mabel Murphy ana Miss Nora
Hayes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The American Relief Legion, Mrs
Oliver Cromwell Field president gave a
card party in the crystal room at the
RitZ-Carlton Tuesday afternoon. The
afternoon was opened by singing THE
Star Spanglcd Banner" by Miss Mary
Allen.
Among the ladies having tables were
Mrs. Helen Richmond Richie, Mrs H.
II. Sclden, Mrs George H. Brosseau,
Mrs otis clifford, Mrs. George Leonard
Fisher, Mrs, Rudolph Lamar, Mrs. Will
lam Dick Sporborg, Mrs George H.
Stickney, Mrs. James T.. Snlmau, Mrs
Arthur r. Monk, Mrs. William White
more and MIS-. Robert Georges Eber-
hardt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

<Ss<, annual luncheon OF tho Harlem
Council OF Women was held yesterday at
the Hotel Theresa, Seventh avenue and
l2jth street The speakers were DR.
George W. kirchwey, whose subject was
Labor and the Employment Problem"
and Or William L. sullivan, who spoke
on our Foreign Born and Americauza-
ton Mrs. Kate Douglas Wlggin read.
At the performance OF Marta by the
National Opera Club Nine Katherine
Evans Won Klenner. president. March 81,
at the Waldorf Astoria, the principal
characters will he taken by Nine Gle
mentine DE We're Saplo Miss Viola Rob
ertson, Craig Campbell ana Francis j.
Tyler. Dancing will follow.
A card party for the benefit OF Lenox
HIN Settlement House will be given AT
the Pennsylvania Hotel saturday, April
3, at 80 O'Clock. Tickets can be had
from Miss Emma klauser, 81 East
Nlnetieth street, and at the door.
Mrs Oliver Cromwell Field enter
tanned the Daughters OF Michigan nj her
home in the Hendrix Hudson Thursday.
Mrs. Thomas Gladstone Massey. the
president, presiding.
While the business OF the club was
being discussed sewing was done for
the Belgian children.
After the business of the day there
was music and singing, Many new
members were admitted and the prrsi-
dent extended an invitation 20 members
OF the Michigan Club TO luncheon at
her hotel April |.
The Wilson College Club OF New York
will hold its annual luncheon at the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The regular meeting OF the Clio Club,
Mrs. James H. Suipman president was
held Monday at the Hotel Aston. Mrs.
c. /, Bristol was chairman OF tho day.
and the subject THE College Men Of the
Future Prot Charles l.. Bristol, head
Of biology of New York University, read
paper by Donald Chalmers.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The Wilson College Club OF New York
will hold its annual luncheon at the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

On Monday. March II. at the Val
dorf- AstorR Hotel. Sororsis Mrs. Ben
jamin Prince president, will have its
fifty-nrst anniversary breakfast.
Nine. Bel Rauska and the Drama Fo-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The Daughters OF Indiana, Miss Mary
Barrett Hay president, will hold their
March meeting tomorrow afternoon at
Die Hotel Aston. Mrs. r. jean Nelson
Penheld will give an address on Laws
Affecting Family Relations" Miss
Louise Lancaster will sing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-03-16

The Manhattan Matinee Club, Mrs.
Jessie Emerson Moftat president. will
lttend a performance OF "a Prince There
Was" on Wednesday after luncheon at
PIE Hotel Cumberland. A social meet
bg and discussion will be held by the
hub on March rs at the residence OF