davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Douglas Island news., 1919-01-03

CHAPTER PRODUCTION With fingers willing but worn, With eyes that are happy and
 glad. The women sic in Che Red Gross
 Rooms,
 Plying their needles and thread -- sttchl sutchl Stitch In spite of your home and the Flu, You work at high and nervous
 pitch
 As the boys return Co you. Work, Work Work! Your spirit never flags! As long as you know tho Refugees Are wandering round iu rags A shattered roof, a naked floor A table. broken chair, And children so cold for lack Of
 clothes
 That they need your kindcst carc. Knit Knit! Knit! Although the boys have returned' sewl Sew! Sew! For those whose homes have been
 burned! Seam. and gussett and seam, 'TnI over the buttons you fall asleep, And sew them on in dream.
 -E. J. Saunders.
The sun., 1919-10-05

ated that the ones under fire appeared
as from another era. The dresses
were charming, of course, but that eX-
ira two inch allowance made things
appear too in advance of style. At
the various houses we had been see
ing huntresses, harenI suggestions,
and suddenly appears lady clothed
like one, and we did not appreciate
those extra inches. Once before, about
two years ago, Worth. the invincible.
tried this very thing-to make his
skirts a respectable length when other
houses were doing the contrary-ard
he had IL slash the length of 10 su.t
his clients, just as he will have to Go
now.
Worth Brave Man.
Worth is n brave man. too, in dis
playing very short jackets. He will
win i'm this. for not every woman
likes the redingote which the other
coutuyicrs have bent all their energy
on. The jackets are finished with fur
both about the hem and moufla collar,
and they are dashing little things, too,
and are bound TO be copied by dress
makers everywhere. We see at
Worth's the princess to be worn with
jacket or redingote, rs all tastes must
be catered to. Leather trimmings in
pipings and also fringed over the hips
give the necessary fulness and arc.
fetching. Belts and girdles of fancy
feathers assorted to the robe were
everywhere in evidence. The plain
fiat backs noticeable elsewhere seemd
to be the standard things at Worth's.
Evening gowns, court dresses. are
seen again here, though since 1914 the
latter has had something of a vaca-
ton. For such dresses Worth makes
the skirt of satin or velvet. and long
with train II for a middle aged
grande dame, but in sending dresses
to England and Spain for drawing
rooms ii is the regulation court dress
with immense train and long veil. The
short evening frocks are supposed
TO be for dancing or informal gather
ings. but the other kind will always
he the dress en- regle.
| DOeuiIIet Dnres to he Natural.
The entire absence of all embroidery
Is one of the striking features OF the
Doeuillet collection. The couturier
has dared to be natural and to make
beauty of necessity. Others, lacking
his inventiveness, have gone out OF
their way to try to produce the i'm
! possible. They have resorted to sew
ing machine stitching and scroll de
signs in fine braids to fill in the gap.
| Not Doeuillet. And what has hap
pened TO the embroidery? Ask the
syndicates and leaders of strike move
ments. Also ask the muuition fac
tories and numerous war industries
There are now thousand demands for
| handwork of all descriptions and that
Of decoration for woman's dress comes
last in consideration, and until the
after war condition has been calmed
we are not likely to see embroidery or
the like.
OF all those showing clothes this
! season none has gowns that are more
| Continued on FOHotCin0 PAGE
The sun., 1919-10-05

used. the tufted embroidery swamp
ing everything else.
Premet is showing "a number of stun
ming blanket wraps with the moufia
collars in big plaids and with wing
sleeves that recall the bat. There are
also a number of models in fine serge,
A note of mustard yellow is remarked
in the collection. A striking costume
in black velvet with mustard yellow
pipings Is admired. Another in the
princess type, the hem folded up from
the edge and of deep blue, had its
share Of praise. All evening gowns are
more or less alike, in silver or gold
tissue, with a thread of a train of soft
satin One OF the noticeable black
satin frocks had a yelling of rust gauZe
and the two went charmingly together,
The effect was quite girlish In spite
of the dark materials and their
metal heaviness.
Skirts are short, very short at
Jenny's. They are graceful i'm the
small amount of fulness employed
and the cut is round-that Is the edge
is even and does not sag, this latter
effect being strongly suggested at GER
tain other establishments. Jenny Is
showing long redlngote coats with the
bouffancy carried over the hips. and
she Is also showing number OF
graceful princess dresses. The latter
The sun., 1919-10-05

street suits, mostly wraps, and wrap
is the word for the seasons cloaks.
They are all very enveloping, big cuffs
are used, moufia collars swaddle the
neck and the cloaks are simplicity it.
self and very comfy. But wings are
suggested in some Of the very volum-
inous sleeve draperies.
AS for a general color there is
nothing particularly set. but the tones
of brown are popular. especially that
running to rust. Black is more elegant
than ever and the shades OF dark blue
will always hold their place in Paris.
For evening corn color. canary and
sulphur all show that yellow Is favored.
Flame and cherry will not be slain,
war or peace, and these reds are with
us again, more lovely than ever.
Premet's Offering Attractive.
Premet generally has something new
and attractive TO offer. In fact the
present day moutia may be traced
directly TO the Premet creations Of a
few seasons ago when this establish
ment brought for the first time the
wide open necks with sort OF civilized
edition OF the bernous or hooded cape
thrown back around the neck and
shoulders. With this went the skirts
doubled about the edge unevenly and
without hem in a manner akin TO the
The sun., 1919-10-05

times Jenny builds the wraps or bro
cade and sometimes of plush, but it is
the colors that make them young and
giddy, also the finish.
When Poirets mannequins come
tripping onto the scene one rubs ones
eyes in reminiscence of the palmy
days of the Russian ballet. All the
skirts are full, a sort of half harem
cut with material folded in front and
over the hips and badk. There is no
suggestion of bagginess. no drawing
either. The garment falls straight in
the front from the Oriental girdle, and
there is no squeezing. no undue ex-
posure. The dresses of the genre re-
call not only the Turkish and Schehe-
razade, but what we remembered of all
the Russian ballet effects.
Poiret has unearthed a coarse weave
OF duh brownish bronze metal cloth,
quite original in the market, and it is
q big improvement on the cloth of golu
and silver. Not only is the fabric less
glaring and crude, but it is much more
supple and amensble TO the intricacies
of draping, Poiret has invented a
style of bodice for evening gowns
which deserves mention. He has over
come the "baro back" question by at
taching his bodice back and front by
means Of straight string Of pearls or
The sun., 1919-10-05

is put, as well as bindings Of patent
leather. Jenny generally puts tone on
tone-that is TO say she trims with
the same shade, and sometimes IL is
difficult TO tell which is foundation,
which is garnish, one being the COM
plement of and completing the other,
AS for colors, Jenny always likes
things that are soft and harmonious
and for that reason she has chosen
navies, blacks. tete de negre, taupe,
black and some rust.
Evening dresses are very girlish
and extremely short. They are de-
collete back and front, as a rule the
bodice being held up by slender rib
bon or braid. The cut OF the bodice
across the bust and back is straight,
quite so. Square, II might be called,
the shoulder piece put on at right an =
giles with the goods-be It lace or
satin or silk. Skirts are all built on
the barrel idea and resemble a big
pouf with adorable ribbon ends falling
forth. Jenny loves youth and pink,
and most of her evening frocks are OF
pink, that soft seashell that is 80
fragile and lovely. To make the eve
ming dresses lighter still, very little
heavy ornamentation in the way OF EN-
broidery or jet or braid is employed
The evening wraps are Just as young
and light as the dresses. though some
The sun., 1919-10-05
Chemists Tell How to Make
Good Use of Waste Fruit

experimental laboratory at Los Ange-
les the by-products industry has de-
yeloped rapidly. Now there are four
stable concerns manufacturing lemon
by-products. The plants of these con-
Germs have capacity of over 5O,OOO
pounds OF lemon oil and 100000 pounds
of citric acid. Twenty concerns are
producing orange by-products 10 the
extent of 100000 pounds each year.
These orange by-products include
marmalade, marmalade stock, jellies
and candied peel.
Improved methods for the manufac-
ture of orange vinegar have been de-
yeloped by the experimental work
Methods for the production from Gull
grapefruit OF candied peel and juices
of excellent quality have been devised.
The existing methods for the manu-
facture OF citrate OF lime and Of citric
acid. have been improved and adapted
TO California conditions.
The benefits to the grower of fruit is
shown by the increase in the price Of
Gull fruits since the experimental work
was begun. Less than five years ago
Gull lemons could be had In large
quantities for IS a ton. while to-day
they bring $50 to s25 ton, notwith-
standing the fact that a larger guam
tity is now available. Sound Gull or
anges could be bought formerly in
large quantities for IS a ton. Now all
Gull oranges placed upon the market
are snapped up quickly at from $50 TO
$40 a ton. Part of this increase In
price is due no doubt to the general
advance In the price Of commodities
of all kinds. but the general increase
In prices will hardly account for ad-
vances OF from 30 per cent to 90 per
cent. In Gull fruit.
The sun., 1919-10-05

NULL oranges. lemons and grape
u fruit which were formerly wasted
are now turned into many use
ful products developed by the Bureau
Of Chemistry, United States Depart
ment Of Agriculture, which is conduct
Ing experimental work in the citrus
oy-products laboratory at Los Ange-
les
The problem of how to utilize eco
nomically the Gull and waste fruit be-
came more acute each year with the
development of the large orange and
lemon groves OF California and Florida.
Fruit which is too small or too large
unsightly or misshapen, cannot be
sold proftably for food. Some fruit
Is not fit for shipment because OF
minor defects such as small bruises or
punctures from thorns or gravel or
rough boxes, since such defects become
points OF infection for bacterial and
iU9gous growths, which cause decay
The amount of waste fruit averages
from year to year about 3 per cent of
The total crop.
The citrus by-products laboratory
was organized at Los Angeles in 1914
10 Investigate the possibility of adapt
ing to conditions in California and i'm
proving existing methods for the utili-
ration Of wa Ss lemons. to develop new
methods and to make, II possible, new
products from the waste lemons, or
enses and grapefruit.
There were one or two small and
struggling by-products companies IL
The sun., 1919-10-05

evening gown are exaggerated frankly
by means of hoops or other devices
analogous. AS fer trains, they seem
to have gone their way with other
old fashioned things. How will you
have trains on frocks reaching little
below the knee? There is no place for
trains these dancing days when every
soiree is preceded or terminated by
tango. Occasionally just for reminis-
cence shining scarf OF silk or lace is
caught in somewhere among the folds
and flies. streaming out as the wearer
moves.
Speaking of new materials. one par
ticularly worthy of mention is known
as zenana. Like all the others this 10
soft and warm and supple though
thick, 1t comes in tans. browns. ba-
nanas and royal blue. 1t Is made into
The sun., 1919-10-05

Algerian and Moroccan soldiers uni
form, from which they were un-
doubtedly inspired. The idea took root
and they have been going on with
variations ever since.
In the absence of ordinary en-
broideries Premet has caused the
adoption of tufted wool and silk. They
are a pleasure to the eye, are quite
new and are sure to become popular.
The trimmings of this kind are used
color upon color, but though of the
same tone the soft garnish always
stands forth. These patch quilt" tufts
were we'll illustrated in a dress of
brown, arranged in squares over the
pockets and making that part Of the
costume stand as though it were wired.
Skirts are short. though not exag-
gerated. Very little fur trimming is
The sun., 1919-10-05

strasse attached to the middle of the
front and back and suspended from a
similar string of the trimming attached
around the reck. The shoulders are
thus left quite bare, but no slipping off
of bodice need worry the wearer,
One Of the evening gowns in dull,
coarse silver has a little short shoulder
cape OF the transparent material, with
cord run through about the neck.
and to this the bodice is attached III
the centre of the front. This gown has
n full, short skirt standing out we'll
from the hips by means of hoops or
crinoline. Many of the Poiret models
are trimmed with rich furs, especially
the long, loose fitting wraps. One Of
these in rosewood heavy weave has a
long sleeve effect reaching quite to the
hem on one side, while the other shows
normal loose sleeve.
Martial q Armand's Offerings.
A number OF models have a series Of
little capes falling In graded lengths
one over another. A street costume In
brown velvet has a short Russian
blouse very ample in cut over the hips
and finished with skunk. which fur
may add, is favoTlte with Polret and
other couturiers./ Other furs come
and go, but the dkunk remains. Fur
is used not only to form the sIan'
The sun., 1919-10-05
PARIS MEET EVERY CRAZE OF HOUR:
SKlRTSEVEN SHORTER TROUSERS GAIN VOGUE

are reminiscent OF the late but not too
lamented robe chemise. The princess
is worked out on more elaborate lines,
with panels and trimming about the
hips. There are also number Of
simple waists buttoning straight up
the front-keenly suggesting the style
of 1880.
Many Of the Jenny models have col
ored pipings around the bottom Of the
short skirts and also on the long jack
cts, where a contrasting bright color
The sun., 1919-10-05

mufflers about the neck. but Poiret
makes little effects OF the fur. be il
skunk, lynx, petit girls. ermine, or
vison. The dyed rabbit kind has dis
appeared fo.' the season.
The color scheme at Martial &
Armand this year is a combination of
black. king blue, taupe, black with
white. gold and silver. In materials
there is but one striking novelty-lSid
glove kid applied to dresses. The kid
is rather shiny and is perforated in
fancy geometrical patterns. Satins and
velvets are still popular with this
! Ouse Tor evening ana formal affairs,
while for the street there is the ever
popular velour de laine and duveteen
In the collection one sees cloaks and
dresses of the immense plaid that has
appeared with the last days of sum-
mer.
Edges Hang Unevenly.
Skirts reach midway betwiXt calf
and top of shoe, if the shoe be very
high. The edges of evening gown
skirts hang unevenly. They have a
tantalizing kink somewhere that
makes them stick to one limb, pulling
the fabric from the calf of the other
which would be thus entirely exposed,
except where a kindly drapery stoops
to cover as with a mantle the Offend
ing member The fashionable skirt
not only short, measures but a lean
yard. Being such a width they must
consequently be cut off, else there
would be no stepping in them. But
the skirt is nothing, for 1t is only
supposed TO rim the redingote worn
with it. and IL in evening material,
then drapery covers its scantlness.
Though there is a tendency to leave
the feet and limbs to full view, Mar
; tial & Armand send the goods up to-
ward the head in the most striking
fashion. High collars are shown on
some of the evening gowns at the
back, leaving the decollete at the front
and under the arms. The fulness of
| the redingotes is carried over the hips
by means of big buttons or cabou-
chons and fancy belts worn loosely
form a dainty finish at the waist line
Sleeves are long and slightly wrinIled
for the street costumes and a finish
! Of fur is at wrist and neck and also
sometimes to suggest broadncss at the
hips. The wealth of embroidery is
| lavished over the hips while in most
instances the back is quite unadorned.
| The dressy vests at this house are
| Oriental in splendor. Crimson and
| gold make splendid effect, also silver
and black, the vest most popular being
| in metal brocade. The vests are long,
| mostly pointed.
Worth skirts Surprisingly Long.
Commissioners and fashion chroni-
clers assembled to view the Worth col
| lection got the shock OF their lives
when the mannequins came prancing
In in almost long skirts. We call q
shoetop skirt long, these depr7yed
days when respectable women N>>uI
the streets with skirts midway be,
I IL.
The sun., 1919-10-05

Continued on FOHotoin0 Page.
The sun., 1919-10-19

ing novels in paper, there is absolutely
no publisher issuing high class line Of
books IN anything but cloth. Why can
not a publisher bring out line of new
books of a miscellaneous nature in paper
as well as fiction. The binding can be such
as to present a good appearance and
wear reasonably well The book can be
made equally as attractive.
At the present time our reprints Of
popular copyrighted novels sell at from
3 to against 81, against the original
copyright edition. We can look for even
greater distribution if the book were orig
inally published In paper and sold at q
price of from IS cents to 81, according
to the content
1t must be taken into consideration
that the cheapest hook obtainable to-day
is the reprint novel at rs cents and there
Is rumor that these Will go to 81. The
The sun., 1919-10-19
Booksellers Twofold Task.

THO THE EDITOR OF Books AND THE
Il Book WoRID-Sir: The bookseller
Of to-day faces the hard task Of making
his business commercially successful and
at the same time properly fulfilling his
function Of bringing the worlds imperish-
able literature to the people. Say what
we will the bookseller cannot properly
regard his books as simply so much mer-
chandise and care no more for what he
sells than for so much soap or axle grease.
If he tries to maintain such a completely
commercial attitude he Will fail not only
as regards his duty 10 the public, but
also m achieving his own financial sue
cess. The bookseller to whom the books
he sells are only as butter and eggs would
do well to forsake his calling for one
where transactions are easier and sales
units larger. 1t has been very well said
that man who loves books can sell five
books where the mere merchandiser can
sell one. Yet your merchandiser always
congratulates himself on his superior
business acumen. Personal intelligent
enthusiasm will sell more books than
bumptious placard or neatly planned
window display. The bookseller who IS
also a booklover can build up a circle of
customers who viii look to him for single
minded advice, confident that their needs
rather than the condition of bis stock will
determine his recommendation.
The hard task that faces the bookseller
is to so arrange the conduct of his bust
ness that he can devote sufficient time to
meeting his customers, and what is as i'm
portant, training himself to be competent
to meet them and at the same time COM
pletely succeed in handling the financial
details of his business. These are many
and mksome, and the general condition
of the selling of books for many years
has not been such that the bookseller
could be satisfied with nominal supervi-
sion of these matters and devote himself
heartily to his real calling -bookselling.
To maintain a proper balance on the
correct side of the ledger has required
the most diligent effort and the keenest
watching of details Matters of discount
and special terms naturally often mean
more to the bookseller than the compar-
alive merits Of Byron and Swinburne.
The public wants its bookstore In con-
The sun., 1919-10-19

average person. The value of book hes
not in its cover, but In its contents, and
1t makes little difference to the average
individual in our foreign countries whether
the book be bound in cloth or paper. The
American must necessarily be educated to
this point.
Book buyers in the United States have
always demanded cloth bound books,
something that after reading they can re-
tain in their library. Why cannot the
publishers give them paper bound books
Of such substantial nature that they also
be retained for library use and stand the
wear and tear Of constant referencef In
all cities Of any size there is local binder
who frequently binds the cloth books for
libraries. This same firm could bind in
cloth any particular titles that patrons
would desire In this binding, and at the
same time it would offer them the ad-
The sun., 1919-10-19

vantage of having the books bound as
they like. In the case Of text books the
publisher could perhaps prepare special
cloth bound editions fol school use.
The big point is that as means Of CIV
ing the public more and better books at
less than half the cost, we shall have to
adopt some method of presenting better
books at cheaper price than the present
rate before we can obtain wider distribu-
ton. Ny theory is that the paper bound
book presented with dignity and substan-
TALLY viii solve this problem.
81. J. SIMoNsoN,
The Magazine of Wall Street,
40 Broadway,
New York City.
The sun., 1919-10-19
THE PRIZE LETTER CONTEST AWARD.

For the best letter from publishing
phase of book publishing The SIMONSON
The Magazine of Wall Street, Broadway York
award of SIS made WARD MAcAULEY Library
"For the best letter by
ROSSITER JOHNSON
New York
"For the best anybody
SIS MARGARET PNCKNEY ALLEN 81 Upton
avenu R.
published