The sun., 1919-05-18
Brilliant Types Indicate Return of
Femininity to Clothes With Sweaters
Observation-Disclosures

tennis racquet is something with which
TO catch bugs.
1t is this type of apparel that the
designers have tried to suppress. 1t
is this kind OF informal. expensive
finery that the leaders Of fashion put
out Of first fashion two years ago.
All the world unites in the opinion
that sport clothes should be worn for
sports, and that a woman should de-
velop the most comfortable costume
for the type Of activity in which she
most INDUCES. She cannot play ten
mis- In a flounced frock, do eighteen
holes Of golf in a georgette gown, or
ride horseback in a chemise frock Of
velvet.
As long as the American woman re-
mains intensely athletic the shops find
plenty to sell. It is we'll that they
are suppressed in their desire 10 sell
nothing else during six months Of the
year.
Ceauettish Clothes To-day.
The world has shown an express de-
sire to see women dressed in q femi-
nine manner. 1t is the psychology OF
the hour. The dressmakers have
caught Il; the women are catching it.
It will prevail.
Those OF us who have stood on the
sidelines and watched the game of
fashion have foreseen this change of
heart for year and have preached 1t
often.
OF course, there are still millions Of
sweaters, plaid skirts and sport hats
to be bought by those who need them,
and there are thousands OF salespeople
to offer them; but the leaders. those
who have vision, created a new type
OF costume last December which car
ries the name sport" through ira
dition.
Absurd as these things seem under
the name OF sport clothes. they show
definitely the path which the world Is
treading.
One does not link n sportswoman's
idea of sport clothes with a fiounced
printed silk frock, white buckskin Slip
pers with silver buckles. and an out
side blouse OF cream net over thin
colored Chinese silk run with rows OF
lace insertion and girdled with coll
ored ribbon. And one can easily see
her derisive smile at the sight of q
balloon skirt of pale blue georgette
inlaid with Van Dyck points of blue
taffeta, hobbled at the hem, and gath
cred at the hips under gypsy sash
of blue taffeta which is knotted at one
side and fringed at the ends.
OF course. these are not sport
clothes; the absurd part Of It Is that
those who design them have not the
courage to omit the word sport"
They are afraid commercially. But in
creating clothes which are faminine,
alluring and suitable for the sun
shine, the open air and country life,
they have shown that they are
psychologists and that they have
caught the trend of the hour. They
are merely entangled in commercial
net of the last decade, and that is why
they launch these clothes under a
rmsused, much abused name.
GIorined sport Clothes.
Whenever the pendulum swings in a
certain direction II has the force OF a
magnet in bringing all particles and
units along with it. Everything moves
in its direction, even II some things 70
faster than others.
This is particularly true OF women's
apparel. The moment our country
clothes became the kind Of thing we
associate with English garden parties,
our actual sport clothes were pulled
along in the same direction.
The commonplace garments which
served for golf and tennis were sup
planted by things that were unusual
and eccentric.
The fashion for leather was respon-
sib!e for the new type OF golf clothes
which individual women wore this