The sun., 1919-07-06
By MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON

~ you uACoS " piCbSS yOute
self or to please others7"
why, to please others. OF course"
was the reply.
The questioner smiled.
Would you mind taking OF that
shirtwaist," she said. II have always
despised It,"
The silence which ensued was quite
thick enough to feel.
Perhaps this little story illustrates
the futility Of even attempting to
please. Most Of US, I am sure. dress
the best we can with the means OF
hand--those means in the bank and
those the manufacturers create. Now
and then one comes across those radi-
ant persons who not only dress to
please themselves but succeed in pleas
ing every one else as we'll.
All Seek the Picturesque,
know of no other word with which
to describe the fashions of the hour
than picturesque. To be picturesque
seems to be the aim of all who mako
and those who wear feminine apparel.
Certainly there Is quaintness and q
charm about present moment modes
which warrants the term. For in
stance, a certain little pale pink or
CANDY just the tint of a rose Is banded
together in a series of lace puffs made
by gathering n narrow band OF inser-
ton along the top and bottom edges
and placing the puffs between spaces
In the organdy.
Across the front there Is drawn a
little apron of the organdy likewise
banded with these same quaint puffs
and at one corner having a small
pocket fashioned of the lace and TIMED
at the top with a deep red rose and a
blue ribbon. The bodice has a fichu.
quaint little sleeves OF lace and or
CANDY pulled like the skirt, and the
blue ribbon and req rose appear CO.
Quettishly again at the side of the
fichu where 1t crosses. The charming
frock is not in the least fantastic or
bizarre but picturesque to the last de-
gree and is the sort of thing a young
woman would affect for her gayest
moments.
to disappear altogether-that Is the
waist line. 1 mean. for the newest
creations show not only no line where
ones waist is but many gowns and
blouses have capes Of lace or accordi-
on pleated chiffon got over the shoul-
ders and entirely covering the upper
part Of the figure. This effect is
achieved in a gown Of black Spanish
lace. the skirt OF which has seyeral
lace founces placed one above the
other on Il foundation OF black satin.
A deep girdle of burnt orange and sill
yer brocade form what there Is of the
bodice and n tight cape of the lace
buttons slugly around the neck and
fits as smoothly as n cap over the
shoulders. The lower edge falls over
the ribbon girdle in a floating panel
effect.
Same Method overssas.
The same method of making a
blouse has just arrived from over
seas in white accordion pleated chif-
fon blouse OF which the lower part
Is tight foundation Of the chiffon over
thin white silk and the pleated chif-
fon falls in the same cape like fashion
from neck to waist line hiding the alb
sence of other sleeves as this curious
arrangement seems to make sleeve
as well as bodice. The same thing ap-
pears again in a flesh pink Georgette
with the lower edges bordcred with
several rows of palest pink ostrich
feather banding.
The fashion for yelling ones self
In tulle as was done SO much last year
is more noticeable than ever. 1t Is
well to note that the soft wood brown
shades have almost superseded the
blues Of the past season, so much so
in fact that the brown Is becoming
quite as hard to find as the blue which
grows scarcer daily--and dearer, too.
Brown. by the way, Is the coming fall
shade. Many Of the Paris importa-
lions for street dresses OF the chemise
and one piece effects show in the col
lection only two colors, in fact, brown
and black.
The soft fabrics, such as duvetyn.
yelours and kittens ear, have pushed
all others aside. Serge, we hear, Is to
have a rest. along with all OF the kin
dred fabrics OF surface rougher than
the velvety velours family. These re-
veal the same picturesqueness have
noted above.
1t seems that fur will be so dear
that the makers Of clothes are using
endless quantities of embroidery to
take the place Of fur trimming. The
embroidery Is done by hand in the
same shade as the dress material and
the extremely heavy embroidery silk
Is used. Redingote effects, with their
long slender lines. are leading all others
at this time.
The foundation OF such frocks is
usually a petticoat Of satin. which is
revealed underneath the long over
garment as 1t opens with each step.
The redingote is well suited to almost
every type OF fgure-whereas the dol
man lines which swept every other ef-
feet aside for a time suited only the
tall and slender, and while giving them
the picturesque effect described only
made the short and the thick more SO
In appearance.
Sand and Tan Tones.
AS companion to the brown shades
destined for early fall and winter
wear sand and tan tones are often
seen. There are. by the way, several
new shades--faison brown, which has
a reddish cast; tison. which Is rust
red-peace blue and Jade. Corinthe and
Adriatic, also blues. The combination
~ brown and 0raau a. afrtl{niO o. IA ~ =