New-York tribune., 1919-09-12
elk Association
Blames Shortage
Labor Troubles
c.xs Looms Are Working
On Fall Fabrics When
They Should Be Making
Spring Goods

.,c;sw c. the Si.k traCo isstSd ay the
~ Association OF America.
because Of ths slow rate of produc
-, according to tic review, looms
~ It'll working on fall fabrics when
...v should be producing spring goods.
.ss Yesu., Of this. thc Offering OF silks
nv sp-inc ase much delayed. Prices
IN ADVANCE still more, it is said. be-
..uss Of the rise in the raw silk market
.,d the ever increasing demands of
lsbor.
The present price of raw silk is
.,,recedented." says the review. "T<-
r,rd the latter part of March silk
,,ssn to rise and has Continued to
france steadily. giving striking
rps.ration Of how sadly the silk cor
..m.ng world needs larger supplies.
,rs particularly. more competition
,7ajnst the more or less controlled
market Of the present time. China
SEEMS 70 offer field sor increasing
,,e supplies of raw silk. and seldom
las such an opportunity of an eager
~srget been offered any national de-
zslopment as that now open 70 Chinese
se,icul,ure.
Serious Labor Scarcity
The scarcity OF labor is the most
serious condition which the manufact-
y-sr is called upon to consider. The
rsle silk workers who were attracted
Gurirg war times 10 the munition
plaa.s on accouu, Of the higher wages
rsii have attained certain degree Of
knowledge and sAil. IN the metal trades
and many are remaining in those in
asstries.
There is also lack Of replacement
islv INN migration has been The CHIEF
su-ce OF supply for this kind of labor,
lit there has been no INN. grafton
nee the war and many foreigners are
,.urnlag . their native lands. havinc
ssad enough from their inflated war
'srines 70 enable them TO establish
tensalves in comfort in the home
mmv.es
female labor has grown alarmingiy
scsrce Wi-h wages advanced in all
industries the wives and dauahters Of
taHi.ies Dc Hot ind l. as necess~ry to
sees work ard the children are being
.ep, in school longer. New positions
we're opened 10 women workers dur
K the war and many are staying in
.hese diferen, fields.
The trend coward shorter working
hours is berg fei, n many OF the silk
producing sections. This IS especially
rue in Paterson. ~ J.. where labor
scitators nave been VeIy active. Iiul-
son County. \. j.. has quite generally
adopted the torty-four- hour week.
Many Of the mills in pennsylvania
nave reduced their week to fifty hours.
but there are still some mills working
on longer basis. Some Of the New
England mills are now on a forty
elSht-Aour schedule, to the satisfac-
nor OF both employer and omploye.
simultaneously with the demand for
.1orter working hours has como the
emsnd for an increase in wnges in
very branch ef the industry.
Costs Higher Here
TIE cost OF producing American
4sicaana.se has advanced greatly in
erparison with similar costs in coun-
rs that look TO America as d market
. N then wares. Oriental silk workers
Eelyed an increase IN wages of but
lev cents In The twenty years previ-
'.i to 1915. and while they have re-
f7ed con- derable advances since that
10, wages i'll the American silk in
4''rg IN The same period have IN
reased IN far Greater proportion. The
owing impcrtatlons OF manufactured
"a xiii offer severe competition which
vii be difficult to meet by an ad
a'0rem 'arf. and ii is i'm mSortant for
ne AmeYcan manufacturer not to lose
INT CT The fact that a specific tariff
the one that VIII offer adequate pro-
2siion
At the beginning of the year the
rowing Industry experienced a lull
4 short duration however. the end OF
sai1h finding the demand acute. In
Aag the throwsters could fiji hard Y
4 per cent OF their orders. This CON
y"sl has continued and no relief is
I 44ynt for the balance Of the year
the hosiery trade is heavy con
Ssr Of silk this season. Hosiery
]as that formerly used moderate or
.'Fy large quantities of raw silk are
.aS using much greater amounts and
@aay mills that heretofore have CON
e9 themselves to cotton or woollen
oss are now reporting that insstent
'.1aaa me Is compelling them to use silk
lae uyeing industry Is especia ally
4 @naeapped by the labor problem
Il anslcan dyestufs are steadily inn
sSsuns and with the installation Of
'n'ent protection for the American
ussYy an 'nccrtive for further inl-
'weMent viii be offered Various
aas, including the licensing of I'M
\ .a"ons OF German dyes. have been
,,p p'Ieu 'or THIS protection and some
oeen embodied into bulls which
"O~ before Congress- As vet. how
ssa 10 permanent arrangement has
,sSSlougnt about and this uncertain
ysrs 1sS' 10 'ne present problems OF the
What Is Popular
asO N. the materials for fall wear satin
i oss @S % take the lead with taFeta a
t,snss e.oho- Jersey crepes and satin
4 G. cso ore gaming favor. The supply
i 5sss ss:u.settes .. on the market has not
4 If Au"clent to meet the demand and
4 .od can be produced are readily
I'D bnd jba;ed SILKS are at their height
asss a.nsS are giving indications OF
s,.ss ssS sood sellers. In this field Jap
y 'src'Ion,p 'IIoom,petition is especially strong,
q sg,s.asly IN lining for mems wear.
.ae aeSaues and metallic weaves are
4 l;odss.'own ssown IN attractive designs. The
, ssr 'son mo OF metallic weaves is neces-
sss united. due to The lack Of ma
ersl WIN mIlh which 10 make this ma
aeOr,.d0 %0S' OF 1t having hitherto been
SSa0hs S,ss.a have never been known to
Aiag "So. AL colors and widths are
H. h. aSed. The two-tone ribbon has
A9rs ~. ''s novelty, while tinsel rib
ILL., eov,u se Popular for evening wear.
q u osSss ssSH'stnment has recently placed