davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-08-31
OWN

mans and capes. the straight around
and high, tight collar seems TO be- nre-
ferred on the shorter coat. This q,
course permits the use of the extro
stole IL desired and is therefore advan-
tageous.
Smaller Pieces Are Comb,p.A-
As TO the demand for the smal,e-
pieces, the one, two and three skins
are made up In mink, sable, skunk and
fox, though the latter is quite sufI,-
Gent in one piece. The beauty ~
skunk cannot be denied. In one In
stance 1t is put together In a straight
strip Of the skins to make a stole AZ
least yard and half long and half
yard wide. The skins, perfectly
matched and blended, are marked ~
the hot irons where they are nut IN.
gether, and this sort Of marking form,
good effect in the whole piece. Tho
ends are finished with many tails
sewed on like tassels. AS to mum,
they are quaint and round and SINAI,
like the Kate Greenaway models. The
fashion of using muffs disappeared
somewhat last year when the fur dol
man and capes and long stoles en-.
tered. 1t was found that the lonr
sides Of the capes served as cover for
the hands and gave sufficient warmth
However. muffs are TO be much used
this year.
The sun., 1919-08-31
LAKE SUNAPEE, N. Il.

LAKE SuNAPEE, n. H., Aug. 3o.--Nev
York and Brooklyn guests at the Gran
iiuen Hotei viii Lake an active part In
the largest event of the season here
when the regatta ball Is held tonight
at the Granliden. The large dining
room win be transformed into an i'm
mense ballroom. Preceding the affair
will be many dinner parties given by
Granliden guests and others sotourring
at the Ben Mere, Soo-Nipi Park Hotel
and the hotels at Georges Mills
The ball will be fitting windup to
regatta week, Friday and Saturday be.
ing devoted to water sports, which IN
cluded sailing and motor boat races,
canoeing and rowing contests, swim
ming and diving events, and for the
amusement for the hundreds who gath
cred on the verandas and along the
shores a creased pole was erected for
the youngsters to scale.
Two band concerts were given to-
day at the Ben Mere Hotel. sunapes
Harbor. Many visitors from New York
and surrounding cities motored here to
spend regatta week and to remain over
Labor Day.
An unusually large number of mo-
florists have arrived. Among them are
Albert Hartman and family. Mrs. Fred
Brown, M. and Mrs r. D. Harley, Mrs
Howard Parsole, Miss Carroll. Miss
Brown, Mr.. and Mrs, Edward Caldwell,
Miss Frances o. Caldwell. Mrs. W. J.
FiIbert and family. Mr.. and Mrs. A. 7.
Thomson. Thomas ]. Chambers. Mr.. and
Mrs. J. w. Green, Mr.. and Mrs. Nathan
Blynn, Mrs. Henry Blynn, DR.. and Mrs
Joseph A. O'Conor. Mr.. and Mrs. L. T
HOLSTER and Mrs. H. II. Porter, Miss
Sara Turner. and R D. Worth. all Of
The sun., 1919-08-31

indeed of establishing schools where
fur workers may be trained, as the
labor question in this field is quite as
serious as in all others. Now because
of the peculiar conditions which exist
in the fur world. we may look for a
great vogue in the plush, velvet, as
trachan and other materials which
may be called near" fur, as they give
the same degree of warmth without
costing anything like so much. Even
pony skins are likely to return, 1t Is
hinted, and the so-called caracul also
New Effects In Mole.
II will be recognized at a glance that
many OF the new garments aSe really
triumphs of the fur makers art, for
tie soft and exquisite grace of many
OF the moleskin wraps would alone
prove this assertion II those of no
ether pelts were considered. Because
Of the small size of the soft and vel
vcty mole the makers OF wraps of this
odent have achieved a beautiful re-
suit by blocking the skins in squares
which presents a handsomely shaded
surface. This effect is attained by the
Use OF hot irons which mark the skins
in squares or rows. running now and
then along the bottom Of the long dol
mans and capes. One of the hand
soonest Of the moleskin wraps is made
The sun., 1919-08-31

thickly embroidered In gold threads
intermingled with black, scarlet and
tiny green dots. The result resembles
the Russian blouses we have seen i'm
ported. The front of the satin extends
to the back where It ties in a small
sash. A shallow round collar Of the
scarlet satins, yelled with the chiffon
and placed at the back, Is cut away in
deep points in front The color scheme
Of such blouse can be repeated end
lessly, as for example Jade and black
satin or nasturtium and brown. Still
another model of the slip on design is
made of navy tricolette. embroidered
from the square low cut neck to the
hem in a close design all over the sur
face In heavy blue threads of the same
shade. The neck and sleeves are of
the kimono cut. A braided belt of
navy and Belgian blue is worn at the
waist and a deep fringe OF blue silk
finishes the bottom of the blouse.
Lace shawls Turned Into Blouae.,
Some makers are exploiting the lace
blouse, cleverly manufacturing them
out OF lace shawls Of another day and
also out Of deep f1ounces OF Chantilly
and Spanish lace. They are to be worn
with skirts of satin and when well
made are very smart. Long tabs of
chiffon pointed with jet are added to
make them more elaborate. The COM
panion blouse to these lace affairs will
be made up in net. These make
charming costume blouses, as It is
possible to match almost any color
in the fine silken net AS all of the
brown shades are to be so popular this
season 1t Is worth while to speak of a
delightful model of brown georgette
over which has been drawn gold net.
The effect is light and very rich. The
success Of any such blouse lies in the
clever way in which the materials have
been combined, so that there should be
no heaviness and the richness of one
be enhanced by that Of the other.
We must not forget to speak of the
knitted fabrics, which are more in evil
dence than ever. A tremendously
smart blouse of this sort Is built of a
combination Of white georgette with a
rolling collar and revers OF white silk
tricolette. The accompanying belt Is
also OF the tricollette and the long.
tight sleeves are finished with cuffs of
the tricolette. AS this is a very good
model we shall see II replacing the
desh tinted georgettes and nets which
have been considered by the average
woman "dressy" enough for all but the
most elaborate occasions. The model
is developed in all of the preferred
shades and is beautifully tailored. The
use OF the entire blouse OF tricolette
will continue undated. One of the
very good designs in this material
shows the one sided peasant blouse
slightly overhanging at the waist and
belted in with satin or brilliantly en-
broidered band The bottom OF the
blouse which is worn outside the skirt
Is finished with several rows OF narrow
silken fringe
The sun., 1919-08-31
BLOUSES SHOW NOVEL IDEAS

- CERTAINLY the designers have
been busy in the making of
blouses for fan wear Some ex-
tremely interesting and novel effects
have been achieved. We shah accept
no doubt, the serge and broadcloth
blouse with its trimmings OF fine nets
quite as readily as we took to geor-
gettes and chiffons. Some of the new
models show a neck ruff OF net wired
to stand out in most becoming fash
ion We have already noted the ad-
vent Of the so-called saucer collar,
which means that we are about to
enter on the era Of high tight collars
again. They are most becoming and
most suitable for any sort of practi-
cal wear; but most women will re-
hnquish slowly and regretfully the
comfortable low and open collars we
have rejoiced in for so long. It seems
absurd to find these woollen blouses
with the little short sleeves the French
frocks have been showing right along,
but many of these new things have
these quaint little sleeves. The use
OF net, however, is one of the fash
ions of the hour and we find the lower
part Of the blouse sleeve often made OF
a net either the same color as the
blouse or Of good contrasting shade.
or course when this is done the collar,
whether high or low, is Of the same.
A Popular Winter Blouse.
There seems to be pronounced divi-
sion OF opinion as TO the merits of the
overblouse. 1t has not been quite
90 generally accepted as those who
launched It had hoped for, though
among a certain class who like the
unusual it was instantly accepted A
modification OF the loose and free
hanging slnock appeared in the tie
back model. which has been so practi-
cal and so comfortable that it will
doubtless be the blouse of general use
during the winter. The tie back model
is suited to almost all figures and can
be developed in almost every mate
rial with excellent results. The
tie back blouse hangs perfectly
straight ana Tree from the shoulders
and has the extra fulness at the waist,
belted in or tied with a narrow sash.
The bottom OF the blouse Is hemmed
and often ornamented with bright
stitchery in silk floss or wool and is
worn Sutside the skirt.
OF course the use Of a blouse Of
such heavy fabrics as duvetyn and
broadcloth must be regulated by
climatic needs, whereas the soft char
meuse overblouses with their very
beautiful and oftentimes really strik-
Ing ornamentation OF wool stitches are
suited to almost any section Of the
country. Very smart indeed will be
the overblouses OF black charmeuse
set off with the gayest OF stitches in
wildly colored wool threads. These.
The sun., 1919-08-31

fur OF which the collar is made. The
fashion OF setting on an extra collar
OF contrasting color and skin is ad-
vantageous in many ways, as it per-
mits the use OF the hadsome stoles
which one may possess and which are
so much in demand this year. All of
the collars on the newest fur garments
are very high G..4 of the so-called
choker type. In, many instances
straight pieces Of fur are used to form
tie scarf. which II looped In a jaunty
bow under the chin and always gives
smart and piquant look difficult to
attain with the average fur things.
or course we are appalled, at the
tremendous cost Of even the smallest
pieces Of fur, but when the manufac-
turers tell us that the cost of making
is equal practically to the cost of the
skins we must bow to the inevitable
and pay II we can. There is some talk
The sun., 1919-08-31

faction. 1t is the first time in the
history of his restaurant that Mr..
Churchill has served these set meals
through the summer, his policy hav-
ing been to discontinue them for the
hot weather. The new experiment
has proved popular and very crafty
ing. Dancing all afternoon on a per-
feet floor and throughout the eve
ming. interspersed with the cabaret
numbers, serves to while away the
blase hours Of business inactivity. In
the cabaret are included this brilliant
array OF artists: Mile. Fanchonetti
formerly of High links" and other
Broadway successes: Delphne Daughn
Elsie Buchal, Dooley & Naulty, June
Rorle, Vivette Quinn and Henry &
Lazell.
The sun., 1919-08-31
caine of Paris, is in charge of the
cuisine
"The Floor Moves" at Murrav,s


"The Floor Moves" at Murray,s.
AS every one knows who has ever
dined at Murray's Roman Gardens
there's a circle of two-seat tables on
the outer fringe Of the revolving floor,
The other evening during the dinner
rush a new waiter was assigned to
serve a couple seated at a table on
the revolving floor. He trotted Off to
get clam cocktails, returning to the
original table location, and was sur
prised to find some one else there.
"Did-did-you order these yere cock
tails?" he stammered in confusion.
Just then the captain" stepped UP
and guided the waiter to the proper
table. meanwhile explaining briefly
that the floor revolved.. "Wha's that
yo' say, boss, the floor loves" yes"
said the captain" just remember the
people whom you're serving, then
you'll be all right" The waiter went
off to get the next course of food.
muttering to himself It so happened
when he returned that his people were
dancing. The waiter hurried off to the
captain" Boss" he said excitedly,
my people done walked out on me,
the tables empty" The captain pa.
tiently explained that his people would
return to their table at the conclusion
of the dance. By the time he was
ready to serve dessert and coffee the
table had returned to its original
location. you see," said the cap
TAIN" now you're back to where you
started" Boss" replied the now wild
eyed waiter, this yere game Of now
you see EN-, now you don't is too
much for muh! l quit"
The sun., 1919-08-31
Pelham Heath Inn.

mot in the last five years has there
heen such evidence of preparations
on the part Of automobilists for gem
eral touring" states Harry Suss-
kind, proprietor OF Pelham Heath Inn,
on Pelham Parkway, and he continues,
"the business we are doing here 1 at
tribute. to a certain extent, to the fact
that Europe has been cut of to
those who have made It practice OF
touring European capitals each year,
as a result of which this country will
benefit financially by pleasure seekers
at home"
The sun., 1919-08-31
SEA BRIGHT, N, ].

SEA BRIGHT, Aug. S0.--SightseeinE ana
demonstraIive aviation Is the populE
diversion Of the Rumson and Sea Bris1t
colonies. Every sunday afternoon AZ thh
Rumson Country club airplanes are On
hand for those who caro- to spend
dollar a minute
The Harvest Home supper NJ the HOY
Cross Church, Rumson, proved hugo
success.
Basketball enthusiasts will get chan'"
to play and see the game this winter
in the village without having 20 go out
Of town. Al a recent meeting held b"
the Mayor and Council it was decided 70
remodel for basketball the two story
frame structure on the old Octogon prop
erty,
The sun., 1919-08-31

for the most part, present the same
short French sleeves of all the smart
models and are best developed in the
so-called Cossack and chemise designs.
The smock which came upon us this
spring has undergone certain modifi-
cations which will make 1t moro suited
for the average woman. It Is de-
cidedly shorter and is seldom seen I'M
sashed or unbelted- In fact the belt
and sash are important items In the
winters wardrobe. A pretty fashion
of braiding several shades OF ribbon
together is an excellent idea for a
novel belt. For instance an overblouse
of tan and black georgette has a
string belt OF this sort made by braid
ing sand colored taffetas ribbon with
black. The blouse itself is cunningly
put together in an arrangement or
the two colors in which the black
serves as foundation and the sand
falls over this to make back and front.
The sleeves are quito short and are
Of the black georgette with turned
back cuffs Of the sand. The blouse,
being Of the slip on type, is collarless.
The bottom is very long in front and
back extending quite to the knees, the
black giving the foundation for a
shorter over length of the sand. A
string belt OF the ribbon braided as
described is used at the waist, the long
ends falling quite the length Of the
front panel. The use OF these long
panels will be frequently noticed. The
skirts accompanying such blouses will
of course be undraped and OF the
severest simplicity though they may
be made up in the most elaborate of
materials.
Fur EdginE VIII Be Used.
Oftentimes the effect OF an over
blouse is obtained by the use OF fringe
along the bottom OF the blouse, and
too one sees an occasional use of
monkey fur and of ostrich feather
handing. We shall doubtless grow
rather tired of the latter. as 1t can
new be bought anywhere and in every
color. Uncut fringe used as inserts is
particularly smart when combined
with satin in the more tailored type OF
blouse. One does not see quite so I'M
failing a use of the vestee as last year
brought out, but this does not mean
that the blouse with vestee is out OF
date. On the contrary the vestee is
very smart indeed, particularly when
developed in georgette and fine bro
oaded material.
Nothing could be more striking than
some OF the new Cossack biouses with
the front of satin brilliantly embroid-
cred in the most pronounced colors
and hung over the underneath waist
of chiffon of harmonious contrasting
shade. The use OF scarlet satin in
this fashion is quite novel and rich
enough to delight all seekers after the
Unusual.
1t is used over a scarlet chiffon blouse
which has been deity toned with
black. The satin overblouse presents
a front. unbroken a. to long line and
The sun., 1919-08-31

as we'll as OF the coats An interesting
fashion Of combining skins is observed
this season which has resulted in some
very unusual and very good effects.
For example dolman Of Hudson seal
which hugs the shoulders tightly and
hoops In slightly about the bottom
has shawl collar of mink which folds
back to almost entirely cover the
shoulders. These huge. deep collars
are a distinguishing feature of this
years make in all fur garments. The
collars sometimes reach almost to the
hips, presenting in some instances the
effect of an extra cape added to the
body of the garment. This is especially
true when there Is a combination of
two kinds of skins.
The sun., 1919-08-31
Capes and Donnans Bid Fair Lead in Fashions of Fur
Wraps-New Combinations Of Skins Yield Novel Effects
-Velvety Moeskns Blocked in Squares, Material of
One Artistic Triurnph-Fox Of All Kinds Still in Favor

and out OF fashion. may count our
selves fortunate this year.
When the matter OF, fashions in fur
wraps is considered it looks now, II
we are to Judge from these earlier
models, as IL the cape and dolman
effects are to lead. There is, without
The sun., 1919-08-31
By MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON.

~ ECAUSE Of the great cost of the
finer pelts which make our fur
- coats the domestic animals will
have an unprecedented vogue this
year. Coats Of gray squirrel, raccoon,
mink and zeal will be quite as smart
for the woman of average purse as
win those Gorgeous creations of sable,
sealskin, mole and ermine for her
richer sisters. Let no one think. how
ever, for one moment that a fur coat
OF any skin whatever will not cost
money-for that It will and a good
deal Of it. Indeed those Of US who
have anything whatever in the way
Of o fur coat never mind how old
The sun., 1919-08-31

doubt, a luxury and sumptuousness
about a dolman of fur which the
tighter coats do not have. One is per-
mitted a great latitude of choice as to
the style of a garment, for the short
and the long are equally popular.
This is true of the capes and dolmans
The sun., 1919-08-31

Last year muskrat came to be so
much In demand as a. winter sports
coat that the price was pushed almost
as high as seal. The muskrat coats
are again in high favor for general
utility wear, such as motoring. trav-
cling. skating and such allied uses
The skins are blocked and matched
with great perfection and made up into
whole garments as nearly tailored as
The sun., 1919-08-31
GorEeou. Wraps of sable.

Sable combined with ermine, which
forms the collar. for example, has been
made into a gorgeous wrap offered at
a fabulous price. In the dolman wrap
there are no sleeves but deep Sits left
in the sides, through which the arms
slip. These are often faced with the
The sun., 1919-08-31

up in a dolman effect by outlining a
yoke across the back. From undey-
r cath this yoke the back OF the wrap
falls in rather flaring lines quite to
The edge of the skirt An enormous
collar OF the shawl type folds over the
yoke In the back and extends quite to
the waistline in front, where 1t fastens
with a huge fur button, There are no
sleeves but long ana deep Sits at the
sides for TIE arms. Inside the lining
is of the handsomest and most beauti-
full of flesh pink brocaded satin, with
ample pockets fitted Ut the sides Of
course such a sumptuous wrap is in
tended for only sumptuous wearing, so
to speak. It's cost is close to $1,000,
while a companion coat of mink as
soft as a baby's skin is well over
$4,000. There is a story going the
round of certain newly rich lady who
showed her new string of pearls to a
wealthy woman whose wealth had
teen with her long enough for her to
Re entirely accustomed to it. Said the
newest rich lady: my pearls cost
100000. What did yours cost. Mrs.
Brown 2" The answer came like a flash
and a revelation, II should hate to
have mine look an oyster in the face"
Rage for For skins Persists.
To return now to our skins-furs,
I mean. 1t is astonishing the way fox
holds on. First we have a season
when the white stoles are in such de-
mand 1t seems impossible to meet it,
then comes the wonderful cross fox,
with its rich blend of yellow and
brown, and then the no less beautiful
pointed and silver skins. The rage
for these beautiful fur pieces is just
as insistent now. as it was last fall,
and again this spring. The long hair
OF the fox makes it particularly be-
coming to all and the many shades in
which II can be bought have much to
do with the demand. Black lynx, too,
is a fur which never seems to lose
its popularity. It, too, has the long
and very soft and silky hair of the
fox. Mink, with it's shorter hair, has
always seemed to be particularly
suited to elderly women, but when 1t
is combined, as 1t is this year, with
deep rolling collars OF seal or ermine
or dyed skunk or some fur with
softer texture and a deeper color,
nothing makes a more exquisite wrap.
There seems to be a determined effort
to produce a demand for monkey fur.
1t goes we'll as a trimming for other
garments, as have recently observed
1t used fringe like on a voluminous and
gorgeous evening cape of black satin,
faced inside with orchid satin yelled
in the same colored chiffon. 1t is
said that monkey skins have almost
vanished from the market. and that
nutria will probably disappear also.
so great has been the demand for both
o. these.
The sun., 1919-08-31

~ CERTAINLY the designers have
been busy in the making of
blouses for fan wear. Some ex-
The Monticellonian., 1919-07-25
LABOR.

In The settlement of the linotyp5
operators strike at Berne the strikers
obtained working basis Of "A hours
weekly.
Between 5000 and 10000 employees
of the International Harvester Com
pany are on strike for closed shops
Three plants are closed
Postmaster General Burleson adj
yised Hiss Mae Matthews, who is
directing strike against the South
western Bell Telephone Company. that
any committee representing employees
would be given hearing if they
should come 10 Washington for that
purpose
The National Council Of the French
Socialist party decided to oppose rati-
teation of the peace treaty. The vote
was l,420 TO Ia, with 387 absent.
According 70 C. P. Sullivan, bust
ness agent here fer he Marine Fire
men, Oilers and Water Tenders
Union, 1900 workers on 40 vessels in
the local port are on strike in New
York.
Cleveland telephone operators and
electrical workers are on a strike
Union leaders asserted more than
1000 operators responded to the cali.
The Monticellonian., 1919-07-25
DOMESTIC.

The United States Grain Corpora
tion notified its Zone Agents that
there Will be no advancing premium
over the guaranteed price OF wheat inn
posed by Julius Barnes. United States
Wheat Director. before August 10
About 1000 letters addressed to per
sons in Germany have been received in
the ST. Louis Postonice the first day
1t was announced that first and second
class mail for that destination again
would be accepted
Joseph ". Bailey Of Washington.
former United States Senator from
Texas has been appointed chief eoun-
sci TO conduct an early fight aeai t
the prohibition constitutional amend
ment.
Federal INVESTIGATION OF an alleged
$l00, coo coo food combine is under
way. United States District Attorney
Clyne SAID he had evidence OF a great
trust ct producers. s.lners and distrib-
utors extending its activities to all
parts OF the country
Gen. Pershing acted as sponsor al
the christening OF the infant son or
capt. and Mrs. Sandys Dawes, Faver-
sham, England
e.! am putting the case of Ireland
sqsarely before the American people.
1t Is a question as between England
and ireland. between the right and
might, and | have no doubt of their
verdict. declared Eamonn de Vale a.
provisional president of the Irish Re.
public
Congressman Roper told the Presi.
dent he did not think the internal
revenue bureau should be charged
with the enforcement OF the dry laws
as is proposed IN legisIauon pending
in Congress.
There will be special session Of the
supreme court grand jury, beginnin.
August H. to Investigate "crimina
anarchy which has been authorized by
proclamation made public by Governo
smith. Justice Weeks will have eharg,
OF the investigation.
Stating that his wife was attacked
by D4g rooster, and that as resul
OF fright SIZE died two weeks later
William Frank Naylor of Newburgh
n. y, started suit against j. Nj. Fey
a Hazelton grocer. asking $4,000
damages.