The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-10-12

10 eoo ihutH W say tndt tne nat
Of frankly picturesque tendency,
which has blossomed forth in
such numbers during this somewhat
lisntheaded year Of victory, will neces.
ssrily be more becoming to the
average woman than the practical and
noncommittal shapes of war time
fashion.
Period hats will often sit uneasiiy
on sophisticated modern heads, lack
ing the full powdered colffure, the
flowing curls. the charmingly vacuous
faces for which they were originally
designed. Shapes copied in the most
faithful manner from old portraits,
especially of the eighteenth century
school. should rarely be attempted by
[ women whose type is not at least sug-
gestive OF the beauties of other days
what the Tricorn Teaches.
The tricorn illustrates this point
to perfection. With Incompatible dis
tinction of line. its smartly cooked
three cornered brim is the very type Of
extremely trying to the twentieth
century face. At the same time there
are women to whom it's aristocratic
coauetry is very becoming, and every
milliner Is showing tricorns of black
plush or velvet, often with no more
trimming than large pearl pin or two.
Occasionally the severe brim Is found
with silver lace, below which in one
instance there is a fringe of monkey
fur.
The beret. beloved of Vatican. is
more kindly to the average face,
but its uncunpromising youthfulness
makes II unsuitable to many women
who will covet IT. 1t is developed in
fabrics of the widest possible range,
from leather to net.
Berets of velvet of leather and of
duvetyn as well as those of net are
completely covered with embroidery in
gold and silver threads. and charming
beret is made entirely of rose gros-
grain ribbon. This ribbon is folded
through the centre and sewn on the
hat shape SO that the two selvages
stand up and cover the cap with close
packed groups of convolutions.
The net beret, thickly embroidered
with gold thread, is transparent, and is
of course worn with informal evening
dress. The beret shape most often
seen is the soft careless tam" made
famous by the Blue Devils and so not
quite as small as the cap which Wat
teau was fond of posing perilously
over one ear of his pretty shepherds
and shepherdesses.
The Picture Hat.
The picture hat in the general ac-
ceptance of the term-that is, the very
broad hat with allpring, pictorial lines
is much in evidence and is almost
sure to be becoming. There is, of
course. the veritable Gainsborough
shape in velvet. sweeping sharply up
at one side and heavily plumed on the
other with uncurled ostrich feathers.
Along with the Louis XIV. and Louis
XIV. hats comes one for which Louis
XIII. is sponsor. This last is of
brown satin with a cavalier brim,
tipped low in front, and a high crown
tapering toward the top. Swirling
from above the crown at the back a
cascade of curled ostrich plumes drops
forward over one side nearly to the
shoulder.
Henri ". contributes his high velvet
cap with it's small fiat feather standing
stright out at the left side TO the revel
of picturesqueness. and Henry VIII
his slashed black velvet hat with its
down sweeping paradise plumes.
Kings will be heard from from time to
time even in these democratic days.
other Small shapes.
But they have not a monopoly of
picturesqueness, after all. There are
small Directoire shapes and shapes of
q military cast, one OF these latter
being copied from the casque OF the
British Horse Guards. This hat has a
high helmet shaped foundation OF
black or gray satin, which narrows
toward the top and is crowned by
feathers which hang from the centre
down to the brim and over It,
Sometimes these feathers are of un-
curled ostrich, sometimes of casso-
wary, and sometimes the same effect
is produced by innumerable strands OF
silk fringe which are knotted all over
the foundation. This hat is smart
daring and particularly alluring on the
right woman.
What IL characterized as an E,eyn-