The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-11-15
LATE STYLES IN
GOWNS AND HATS
Pannier Returns and Hoops
About Hips May Be Seen
Sleeves at Vanishing Point.
BLACK AND WHITE POPULAR
colors Form Fsvorite Combination at
French Resorts-Stripes in Mar
row and Wide Arran9ements-
Skirts Are Very Short.

From all signs this will be a de-
ciSive season in Paris In 50 far as
fashion creation is concerned The de-
signers seem to have taken on their
old accustomed stride. They have
turned their efforts unreServedly TO
leadership in the world Of style.
To aid them in this crucial moment
there are arriving from the United
States, from South America, and from
England hosts Of buyers and fashion
experts 20 watch the latest develop
ments. This IS almost n new expert
ence. At least Il is a revived expert
ence. for through the last five years
only the most favored OF buyers have
been allowed to cross the water and
only q few of the dreSSmakers have
kept up their work with anything like
pre-war yigOr.
American women during the war
have developed style all their own.
They are dressing now as suits the
climate and their life and their pur-
suits, which are quite different from
the French woman'S. And one Sympa-
thizes with the buyers, who wonder
whether their clients at home will re-
fuse TO accept the wonderful things
brought over from France. II their
eyes are trained only for beauty they
will be dazzled into letting all their
accumulated notions Of dress so by
the board and the conservatives at
home will not be suited.
At this time of the year all Of
France, as all Of the rest Of the world,
seeks a cool spot; and so II IS at Deau-
Vile and the other resorts by the sea
side that one looks upon the fashiOna-
bly, arrayed crowd Of women and is
able to gain some idea Of the trend
Of the times as regards dress. They
are wearing the very latest things
from a French point Of view, and, Of
course, the majority Of the fall fash
ions will follow in some respects the
lines favored just now.
Skirts Are Very Short
Well, the tendency is all in the d.
rection Of the skirts that are shorter
than anything America has over worn
or even dreamed about. You hear it
said that the Parisians are wearing
their skirts very long, but when you
see them with their skirts actually ex-
tending just below their knees, so that
when their arms are raised the skirt
pulls above the knee, you know what
short skirt really is. It is easy on ma
terial and is extremely good looking
when the fig re of the wearer can
stand the strain. ~he skirts are tight,
too, but what matters that when their
length Is what il Is? No trouble about
taking a good, long step in dress OF
this character. Then the coats, when
It is a suit reach almost TO the bot
tom Of the skirts, leaving, in fact, only
about two or three inches Of the skirt
to be seen. The coats are either strict
IL tailored or they show a little full
ness about the hips. That tells a story
OF forthcoming ILLNESSES Of even
greater volume.
It is so with the dresses. Always
there is a slight gathering Of extra
material where the hips join the waist.
II Is the panniCr that is greeting Us on
the broad highway Of fashion. As YET
Il is not large enough nor full enough
to be alarming. though there are ru-
mors OF hoops about the hips and even
about the bottoms Of the skirts.
The sleeves now in vogue can hardly
be called sleeves. They actually are
just a little strip Of material over the
top Of the shoulder. In most Instance
that is an. and the ParisiaHS wear
them fearlCssIy for morning aud after
noon. In the evening there is no s.-n
tu be- seen Of sleeves.
Even the bl0USes for wear with
tailored suits are s.antily equipped a>
To sleeves. They viii be- quite high az
the neck. buttouiug up under tie ch.l
most UuCOWfUrtably on a hot CIv, and
then they will have these little. made
quatc SleevcS-that is, they are inag--
Quate for anything except setting OIL
q good-lOOkinE arm.
Indeed, a FreHchwOman's dress OF
the present mode is little more than
two strips Of material Sewcd together
and cut kimOno fashion. though the
lines Of her frocE are not flowing;
they follow the outline Of her figure.
Evening e WINS, far from being an
exception 10 this rule, carry things TO
an exaggerated degree. The economical
use Of material there extends to the
neckline. which not only opens at back
to the waist, but sometimes below thai
point. These gowns are low In front
also. All that is used for the bOdices
are two pointed strips Of material on
either side Of the front. In order to
keep this on there are strings Of Jewels
or beads attached to the points strung
around the neck, and from the back Of
the neck strung to the waistline again.
It is the fabric Of the evening gown
that counts for everything and its
draping.