Evening star., 1919-10-08
fOWOn1en
CHICKEN FEATHERS ON GOWNS
BY ANNE RITTENHousE.

ished at this frock was highly placed
American officer, who said that the same
! type OF gown had been worn to a small
dance given by Gen. Pershing few
nights before.
| When Premet opened her house on the
Place Vendome the chicken feather
gowns paraded themselves up and down
tne salon, giving the impression OF
collection of splendid fowls for the dis
tribution of prizes. This parade settled
the chicken feather fashion in Paris. IL
is now established. One may not like
them, but there is every probability that
a clever designer can so disguise them
by paint and powder that a critical
woman accepts them in ignorance Of
their origin
Premet. like Doucet, has no hesitancy
in yoking up the barnyard with the most
fanciful production of the looms. Doucet
puts COCKS feathers on an extravagant
gown of tulle. embroidery and satin;
Premet makes luxurious frock of gilt
tering jet, iridescent in a dark splendid
way. and brightens it with two entire
rooster tails in bright scarlet. One
f1aunts itself on the hip and the other
at the knee.
On demure gowns. like those in blue
serge, Premet trims all the edges with
red, white and blue chicken feathers.
about half-inch long, and holds them
to the serge by tiny quilts sharpened and
stuck through the material. What do
you think about that for novelty?
She gives the gown an American name
to accentuate it's popularity.
Different houses use single feathers
from the ROSTERS tail. scattered over
the surface of the skirt, but not the
bodice.
The latter garment is SO negligible
that no one spends time on trimming
it. The fact that one of the manne-
quins at the house Of Doeuillet when
asked the name of her gown answered,
"A Smile" caused the American buyers
to shout their approval, for 1t was only
smile and string of beads. The
name is now given to all the new decol-
lete frocks by those who are amused at
the present fashions.
Therefore it is on he skirt that the
cocks feathers get their grip, although
that word is rather strong for the man
ner in which the feather is attached to
tie surface. When little chicken feathers
are used they are sometimes quite stiffiy
applied. but this is on serge, not on tulle
or lace
Prement has gown for dancing in
which long quills are used, dyed a
deep red, each stem outlined with jet
and jet bail hanging from the end.
Probably Prement puts more en-
phasis on chicken feathers than all
the other Nhpuses. and her designers
have taken the barnyard in it's en-
tirety through which to carry out
LnelT experiments. II SOUNDS simple.
this chicken feather trimming. AMI
one may be deluded into thinking that
it is cheap. but it is the better part
of wisdom to discard both these
theories. When the coon and pos
sum became fashionable furs they
were regarded as the cheapest food.
and the negro who made his sue
culent supper on these two bellige-
rent little beasts would have rolled
his eyes to heaven at the mere
mention of the price asked for their
hides when they were placed on a
fashionable coat.
So it is with chickens, with this
exception, that poultry is not cheap
1t is very expensive in Paris as in
America, and the French have de-
cided evidently that they will use
feathers, feet and flesh.