The sun., 1919-04-06
TIDE OF FASHION

with three quarter sleeves. These are
finished with immense Directoire cuffs
of striped material. OF possibly brill
liant embroidery of gold and silver
brocade. One of the new sleeves Ia
suggestive of the kind Of brassiere
which carries a shield. It Ii merely
bit of material under the arm which
ties around the arm with ribbon There
is a short cap that covers about three
inches Of the arm on top. And this,
mind you, is put In q street frock.
Naturally, It Is intended to be worn
moved in public restaurants or ut any
kind Of afternoon party.
Dark blue serge Is one Of the ma
terials returned to fashion. but 1t APP
pears in combination with such orna-
mental fabrics that 1t Is difficult to
think Of It as a street frock or suit.
Bulloz trims II with black lace houncss
and puts transparent sleeves OF black
lace In the serge bodice, and other
French designers use silver gauze with
II, Jet embroidery and black and gold
tissue. There 10 no reason to doubt
that the designers have decided to
make serge serve social occasions X
the public has turned its back upon
It for common usage.
There Is no end to jet. II Is not only
used on serge but for entire gowns and
for all the fantastic accessories. There
are girdles made OF long Jet bugles
that hang around the waist line like
the feather fringes of South Pacific
Islanders. These girdles have roses
twisted In among the bugles or made
into long ends that swing down the
side of the skirt.
This type Of decoration Is very fire.
quent on the French gowns and 10
is easy to see whence the inspira-
! ton came. 1t was decoration Of the
houses In honor of the armistice. Two
Of the best houses in Renaissance
style on Fifth avenue delighted the
New York public with this French
medieval decoration, the streamers Of
huge roses dropping over the house
like rain. The French Immediately
took up this symbol of gladness as .
method Of trimming frocks just ~
they adopted the design formed by
FASTING strips of heavy brown paper
on window panes to protect the glass
from bombs during the raids. This,
you know, was the origin Of the lattice
work design, or the squares formed
from braid or galloons which orna-
mented gcNns and coats last autumn.
Again the Highlander.
There are two reasons that might
have governed the French in their in
PRODUCTION of Scotch plaid in tho
apring clothes. One was the extraordi-
| nary work of the Scottish troops in
the war. and the other was the fact
that the Scotch tartans were put into
fashion after the battle OF Waterloo.
The Caledonian ball in London in the
| first part Of the nineteenth century
| created such a sensation in Europe
that the Scotch costumes which were
| worn by all the guests at that ball
were Immediately launched into the
fashions Of that period.
There are Scotch capes to-day; there
ore coats lined with Scotch plaid and
there are cloth frocks and suits orna-
blue, black and brown taffeta- There
are black lace gowns with huge bows
Of Scotch ribbon placed at the back
OF the hips, the ends dropping below
the hem of the skirt.
| The one outstanding design or pat
tern in materials is the Dlrectoire
stripes. This appears in cloth. silk,
lawn. muslins. chiffon and tissues.
| Suitings are in broad black and white
Directoire stripes and muslins are In
blue, deep pink, banana yellow and
| China bIue