The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1919-09-30
Blouses of Colored Sill Jersey, Plain
and Knitted, Are Shown With New
Tailored Suits Instead of Wash
Blouses-They Have High Collars
and Are Often Sleeveless.

| Paris. September 20.--Soft knitted
| silk jersey blouses are shown with ths
new tailored suits and they are ir
| the suit is dull. When the name.
auins walked into >dressmaking sailor
| over here showing off the American
! tailored suit which the French like
and have adopted for their own pco.
pie. the observer quickly took in tn.
new details of a high Directoire col.
lar, slight fullness on the hips an'
i the knee-1ength of the Jacket.
| These details were sufficiently In
teresting to hold the attention ana nc
one expected more surprises. but II
came when the mannequins took of
! their coats and showed blouses that
were not of the traditional muslin 81
chiffon, but of supple silk Jersey
woven in design like chain mail
They were in rich light colors. Some
had long sleeves. others had no
sleeves. All had collars that reached
i to the chin and could button up OF
roll backward.
The French accept 1t buttoned up;
the Americans insist 1t should roll
| back With remarkable good suit
made In an immense gray check there
was a silk jersey blouse of spring
| leaf green; a copper -colored suit had
blouse of pale pir jersey: a dark
blue suit had one of lemon yellow.
| All the observers instantly agreed
that such a blouse was more practical
more attractive. on the figure. more
! suitable for winter weather. than a
blouse OF white wash material or one
| of chiffon 1t Is a distinctly new note.
At the present hour the shops ask 2Ij
francs for such blouse. but nobody
expects to pay such prices after
August. when the buyers sell at the
highest price they can obtain from
garment will be copied and multiplied
! by the dozen.
| One of the green blouses in alluring
T., green like the first leaves Of spring
fitted the figure quite snugly. rip
ping around the waistline in several
| folds and flaring over the skirt at the
sides with an acc1deon pleated rue-
File. There is a pink one that is round
in the neck. short in the sleeve, out.
lines the bust. wrinkles over the
waist, and has a tight band that fits
the hip There is bit Of embroidery
at the edge of the neck and sleeves.
This is the only type Of the jersey
blouse that is collarless The others
have high collars to be in keeping with
the strong Directoire tendency that ex-
hibits itself in so many of the arrange
ments at the neck.
It's a curious combination, isn't il?
This Spanish Russian Moroccan -Di-
rectoire melange of fashions. No one
costume carries out all the points of it's
period or its country; all the costumes
are nj Cling OF each other. -
TIE Directoire neck arrangement is
everywhere the same when clothes are
intended for the daylight hours. The
low neck. the oblong opening Of the
italian Renaissance had vanished In a
night. Bodices, coats. wraps, mount to
the chin. Many Of them mount TO the
nose.
None of the tailored suits have coats
with revers and flat collars or plain
neck lines. They all fasten up to the
collar bone and then wrinkle upward
to cover the chin. The buttons stand
straight up from the coat to the top
edge of collar. or the collar may wrap
about the neck and button at the side
There is a cuff at the top Of the collar
which Is formed by turning the ma
terial over and facing 1t with another
fabric. The collar itself may be Of
leather to match guantlet cuffs.
The leather belt is not used on any
by this one means those that are cut to
the knees. have any kind OF belt except
one of silk cord and metal PLAQUES
or linked pieces of metal. These are
very good on short coats for young
girls and they are put on large ma
jority Of the serges and velveteen
frocks.
Not All the biouses shown with the
coat suit at the openings were OF jer-
sey silk. but the way. for one that
caused somewhat of a sensation was
of pale pink kid made without high
collar. It was worn with blue suit
and was very supple and smart