davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16

labor costs have contributed their
share toward higher prices in waists,
but although we are now paying about
double the wages we were two years
ago, all these advances have been
gradual. Girls who formerly received
S12 a week are now drawing weekly
salaries Of S24. However. this advance
haa been gradual too, and not SO
noticeable as in some other lines of
the garment industry. In the making
Of an ordinary waist the labor costs
us about half of what the raw ma
terial costs. For instance, if there is So
worth of silk in waist the labor used
in making the waist costs us about
81.
"Now, silk goods are not likely to
be cheaper for some time to come. If
raw silk drops in price it will be Offset
by the increased labor costs in the silk
mills. SO our raw material costs will
be fairly stable for the next few
months at least. I don't believe our
own labor costs will increase material
of the present labor trouble in the
waist and dress industry is good"
"Did the strike affect production to
any extent?" was another question put
to Mr.. Lerner.
IL doubt II the enecc or the Strike
will be felt for another month" he
said, "and then I think it will be only
slight. There has been almost normal
production in the waist factories out
side of New York, which were not
touched by the strike, and even here
in town some of the manufacturers
have managed to get some production
by taking in new employees.
"The retailers Of waists are short of
merchandise right now and are giving
us big orders for immediate delivery
Their own sales have been large and
they are compelled to come into the
market to replenish their stocks.
There isn't any reconstruction
problem in the waist industry" CON
cluded Mr.. Lerner. "Our business
suffered but little during the war.
The economies effected as war meas
ures, such as the standardization of
colors, more economical methods of
packing, etc, have helped cut down
our waste, and most of them are 60
ing to be continued as good business
policies"
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Utilizing Government
Surpluses of Piece Goods

In an effort to show the various
agencies for foreign relief and foreign
nations themselves to what use* the
surplus piece goods now in the hands
of the government can be put, a special
exhibit of garments has been compiled.
An agent is now abroad with one ex-
hibit, and another is on view in this
city at the Surplus Property Division
of the ,Quartermaster Corps.
Included in the exhibit are mems
suits, coats, trousers, overcoats, over
alls and shirts. Many articles of wom-
ems and children's apparel also are
shown. These include overall suits,
coatss suits and dresses made from
meltons, convalescent fannels, cham
bray and brown denim.
The samples were made by Bod &
Boskin, Cohen, Brown G. Co., Philip
Mangone, the Heidelberg w off Com
pany and Cohen, Goldman & Co.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Waist Makers Building Up
AlI-Year-Round Industry
Sales for Present Season Are Running Ahead of
Any Other Period, With Foreign Buyers Active
in the Market-Late Easter Helps Trade

Manufacturers and retailers of wom-
business than at any other period in
the history of the waist industry in this
country. Never before his so much cap
ital been represented in the manufact-
uring end Of the industry, and at no
other time have retailers sold so many
waists over their counters.
These statements are made upon the
authority of S. A. Lerner, head of the
Lerner Waist Company and president
of the United Waist League of America,
nationwide organization Of waist
manufacturers. Mr.. Lerner's views on
the waist industry as whole are based
on careful analysis of the trade, both
from the manufacturing and retailing
ends, which he has just completed.
81 can definitely state" he said yes
terday, chat every shirt waist man in
the country did far more business last
month than he did during January of
last year. The February business is
gong along at the same pace and, judg-
ing from conditions as I have found
them IN the trade, business will be
above what we have hitherto considered
normal right up until the middle of
June.
Easter comes late this year, and that
will give us long spring season. With
export trade in the business increasing
by leaps and bounds there is every rea-
son why the waist industry soon should
reach point where it will be possible
to run the factories to full capacity all
the year round and eliminate the sea-
sonabe features of the trade"
How about prices ?" Mr.. Lerner was
asked
~ think that the present prices of
waists are to continue for some time
to come" he replied. 'I don't see how
fhey tI1t,y can either advance or decline.
Silk forms the great bulk of the raw
material used in the trade. While It
advanced some in price during the war,
the increase was not so great or so
sharp as was that in both the cotton
or woollen fabrics. We had to ad-
vance our prices some to keep up with
the rise in the cost of raw material.
but the advances were gradual. Higher
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Change in Producing
Methods Suggested
Trade Editor Says Larger Out.
put Now Would Relieve
Future Pressure
Business News Burscs
Special Corresnonder..

BOSTON, Feb. 15.-The editor a,
"The American Wool and Cotton Re-.
porter" made the following statement
to The Tribune to-day:
"The war resulted in large profits
but it has also brought about manu-.
featuring problem not only in tbe
United States, but throughout tba
world. Are the manufacturers placed
IN better or worse position for dis
cussing the situation with their en-
ployes? Not many manufacturers really
believe in cutting wages to-day. Tbey
merely want reasonable producing con.
dltlons to exist. They would like to
have better working conditions. Onlv
that machinery can be used which il
available, and the methods of produc.
tlon must be those which are shown to
be economical and efficient through ex.
perience. The manufacturers do mn.
want to curtail production, but this is
necessary, since buyers are not Co.
operating.
Why cannot some practical solu.
ton OF the problems be reached? OF
course, nothing appears possible at
present except to let the lack of de-
mana run Its course, but afterward
the result is likely to be just as great
pressure Tor goods, or at least
pressure similar to that noted during
the war. A small and regular produc.
tlon at the present time would tend 10
reduce the pressure when more goods
are needed With lower prices and
general stability in manufacturing
conditions, manufacturers would have
been able to produce goods and TINS
save the situation somewhat The
pendulum is swinging altogether Too
lar. There is too much pressure for
goods at one time, with too high
prices, and TOO small demand at
other times, with too low prices.
This situation must be changed
put 1t ought not to be done by build
ing too many additional plants, since
these VIII only reduce the pressure
when the demand is the greatest and
Will cause unnecessary reductions in
wages when the production is over
large. 1t would be better for the tex.
tlle industry for some time to come
If there were no new building but
only replacement and Improvement in
the plants which ALREADY exist. Sta.
olllty can only be brought about BY
havng q moderate production com.
prices Will stabilize during the period
prices will stabilize during che period
mat the demand is tapering down.
stocks will not be reduced or tiuctuats
10 such an extent if there's no great
overproduction. The employer and the
employe must cooperate more tuly,
ana way must be found to do this,
otherwise the conditions in the indus
Try are not likelY TO be satisfactory
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Business Money

throughout last week the mercantile
paper market remained in its state Of
deadlock. The factors which bring this
about are numerous. Trade and in
dustry must borrow q certain minimum
amount to keep going, but this is all
that appears. When stocks run out
they are replenished, but only on a
hand-to omouth basis. Merchants hesi-
tate. They do net know what con-
ditlons must be met. Business has not
lead buyers to hold off; they do not
want to be left with raw materials on
their hands purchased at "high" prices.
They wait for the bottom to be reached
The country banks, whose CONNER
cial loans have dropped and whose
stock market loans are not great, find
an accumulation of funds pling on
their hands and arc anxious to lend.
The supply of commercial paper does
not satisfy their demand. and they will
Fay as low as per cent to get it. The
New York banks, on the other hand, are
placing a good deal of their funds into
the United States certificates of in
debtedness at 4 p per cent interest, and
are desirous of keeping their funds
liquid for the coming loan A further
reason why they are not clamoring for
commercial paper is the recent rise in
call money rates on the Stock Ex-
change. The banks can lend here at
from 5 to per cent, and they are free
to call their loans in any day.
The packing companies were large
borrowers during the last week. There
was some borrowing by sugar COM
panies, and silk concerns are beginning
to enter the market Borrowing by
drygoods firms is at present very small.
Among the events of the week in the
acceptance market was the announce
ment of trade credits to Italy and Dem
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Furs
World Short Of Furs and
Must Conserve animals.
Trade Authority
Asserts

Scarcity of furs throughout the world
Is one OF the large factors which will
tend to keep prices of pelts up to their
present high levels, dealers say. Reports
of large accumulations of furs during
the war period are greatly exaggerated
according to George B. Herzig, New
York agent of Funsten Bros. & Co..
St. Louis, Mo.
The lack of trappers and hunters
and the shortage of tanneries were in
strumental in preventing large accumu-
lations of Siberian SKINS" he said yes
terday. South America, from which
nutria furs are secured, has had only
small quantity available. Australia
has furnished q great many rabbit skins
however, but these have all been ab-
sorbed in the market.
"I am in favor of more stringent
game laws. If those we now have are
not made more effective, we will soon
find the complete determination of
muskrats, which are now in such de-
mand. Beavers were practically wiped
out in Canada until the law was placed
on them for few years. Proper con-
servation laws, such as we have in New
York State on deer and skunk. are
helpful in breeding better animals for
fur purposes.
'The American catch of furs is now
in, since the game laws Of most states
prohibit trapping after March l. The
sales held recently in st. Louis and
New York were successful in disposing
of large quantities of furs at prices
greatly in excess of those held this wear
at London.
with the success Of the United States
as sales centre, shippers from Japan,
Siberia, South America, Australia and
other primary markets have found that
prices obtained were better than those
at London and Leipzig. This has helped
to establish the American fur industry
on iirmer footing.
AT the same time the United States
government is benehting by the sales
we are holding at ST. Louis. Last wear
over 1000 seals were sold for the in
terest OF the country, bringing in over
S3,00O,O0O. Sealskins are popular with
the women of the country because of
their great beauty and comparatively
small cost, as against the pelts i'm
ported from Europe
"a large business will come in from
Germany and Austria after the peace
terms are signed. These countries dur
ing the war period, it is believed, Sc
cnzed their furs through Holland and
the scandinavian countries We have
reason to expect their trade to come
directly to US, should we care to handle
their business.
There cannot be a drop in the costs
OF turs until surplus is evident. This
Will not take place until next October
al least, when the new catch comes in. u
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
CoIors
Textile Mills Using Larse
Quantities of Dyes
to RecoIor Left.
Ouer Khaki

Speculative accumulations ~ !, d.
stocks and such quantities Of ~ assa
rlc as have been rejected by tbs ss ssO-
ernment are now being dyed CIV
shades for civilian use. A nn,,s ,J mic
textile mills which manufactns.s oi
great quantities of khaki ana s,'
drab cloths in anticipation Of s so1a ullvs
ment needs also find themselvess' s''sth- s!',
large stocks of these goods ON hans 'lta
their problem Is to dye these ~, ssoal sla
into saleable colors. ''0eSS
Considerable serge of the kind -.
for officers uniforms has ALREADY ssa sssa
redyed into blue, green. brown ven zen
black and mixtures of various sbsS.u s.u
Cotton warp shirtings, nine. rSrss, .ouDs.
weight, have been recolored into tS;s.' SSs.s
or more different shades. soma aoI;s ,I;y
and some mixtures. Olive drab wors,aa
warp, with wool filing, of twenty. tnsseu
weight, is shown in oxford; bure,rS..s' r-1.s
navy blue, seal brown and hlacs "..
the same fabric has also been rea~a. Sa!
into more than one hundred dee.
mixed shades. y u"
1t is understood that the covs,r
ment has decided to dispose ~ u,
khaki stocks abroad, and it is how,
among dye manufacturers and dyar,
that foreign purchasers will have ~
material redyed in this country befor,
sending it to foreign consumers.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Another Luxury Tax Protest

The Associated Dress Industries OF
America, national organization OF
dress manufacturers, has joined with
other trade organizations throughout
the country in protesting against the
luxury tax provision in the new reve-
nue. bill. Members of the organization
are now sending their petitions directly
to Washington.
The luxury tax provision was char
acterized as unfair in a statement is
sued yesterday by David N. Mosesohn
executive secretary of the association
He says the luxury tax would be q
burden on the retailers of the country
and that this naturally will affect man
ufacturing and jobbing.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Lace Making in China

Foreign missionaries in Chefoo,
Shanghai, Foochow. Annoy and Swatow
have introduced lace making among the
Chinese women, and considerable lace
has been exported from time to time.
Silk, linen and cotton threads are used
in Chefoo and linen and cotton in the
other places. The lace is made more
cheaply than is possible elsewhere be-
cause OF the low wages paid in China,
but a lack of enterprise in changing
patterns to meet changing tastes and
fashions abroad prevents the industry
from assuming larger proportions
Consular Report.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
More Demand for
Oils Used in Tanning

Sulphurated oils are in good demand
by the tanning industry, but orders
from textile mills which use this pro-
duct to large extent have dropped
off. The prospects for q general re-
vival Of activity are regarded as very
bright by some of the largest pro-
ducers.
South America, South Africa, Scandi-
navia, and Canada, when the tanning
industry is rapidly resuming business
to supply the civilian demand for shoes
and leather products, which has been
neglected for the past four years.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Corset Manufacturers to
Meet Here on Tuesday

Theodore Il. Burton, former U. S.
Senator from Ohio, and Charles d. Hur-
rey, who has just returned from Italy,
will speak at the annual banquet Of
the Corset Manufacturers Association
of the United States next Tuesday
night. The banquet will follow the an
nual meeting, which will be held at the
Hotel Astor, Tuesday afternoon.
Ii Is expected that about 200 manu-
facturers of corsetg will be present at
the meeting and banquet.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Color Card Proves Valuable
Buyers Can Match Goods More
Readily

The value of color standardizatio1 ~ y
best illustrated by the benefit thai aS'
accrued to both producer and consume
as we'll as the retailer. in the way !. y
matching materials. The reductio" .ss -
color ranges as brought about ny ~ ~
standard and season color cards OF ~
Textile Color Card Association has pesS
most helpful in this respect. II Is nv nv
possible for the consumer to opss.s
exact matches in shades in stores us.Ss ~
the cards, which up to short time Ss'
was almost impossible. ..x.
A few years ago some Of the big Na !,
tile mil.s produced hundred shares .S !.
navy blue whereas with color stanaS.si
ization three shades are now proousS..s
light, medium and dark. No ~'; :; =
could carry hundred shades y h,us
fabric, but three standards OF nav, =, A.
shades can easily be carried ID az .on. az
partments. This eliminates any '''
fusion in matching samples.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Club Organized by Men
Who Sell Mems Apparel

The Mems Apparel Club of New
York State was organized yesterday
at luncheon held at the McAlpin Ho-
tel. Fifty wholesale mems apparel
statesmen signed the charter member
ship applications, and the following
temporary officers were elected: L N.
Schlff, chairman; A. S. Salisbury, vice
chairman. and Victor Hitler, secretary
and treasurer. A committee on by
laws and ways and means was selected,
consisting Of Messrs. Schiff, Salisbury,
M. L. Goldsmith, Albert c. Atlas, Gabe
Lang, Victor Hitler and W. j. Fishel.
The purposes Of the club are to form
friendlier feeling between the job
bing salesman and the retailer.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Chinese Rug Industry

The war lifted the Chinese rug in
dustry, with its centuries of indiffer-
ent activity, from position of OBJ
kets to a place of popularity and per-
manency principally because the sup
ply of Oriental rugs from Persia and
Turkey was cut off from the American
market at time when large accumu-
lations of wealth had increased the de-
mand. During the year 1917 China
exported nearly SSO0,0O0 (gold) worth
of rugs.
During the past few years Shanghai
has been developing the rug industry
and hopes are entertained that with
better organization and with the use
of machinery standardized high
grade rug can be roduced-Consular
Report.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Hat Making in China

The manufacture OF hats in China,
according to consular report, is GER
tain to become an important industry.
With the cutting of the queue foreign
hats displaced the native styles. More
than 100000 rush hats are exported
each year from Ningpo to the United
States. A hat of good quality IS be-
ing made in Szechwan Of palm leaf
fibre. The extensive manufacture of
straw braid in Shantung will lead to
the manufacture of straw hats in that
section.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Japanese Raw Silk Easier

Raw silk in the Yokohama market is
lower in price, apparently because
American buying has subsidized. Chinese
markets have been steady for some
time past, but during the latter part
of the week quotations fell about 20
cents a pound for the best grade of
Canton raw silk Demand is limited.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
Americans i'm Mexico
Orgau;ze Commerce b0a'

Consul Wilbur t. Gracey repu,rr awsr-
from Monterey. Mexico, that an S hsen
lean chamber of commerce hsu the
organized at that place, and .san ..s, of
chamber hopes for the cooperssss'ssss. ssass.
ell such bodies in the United Sssss
New-York tribune., 1919-02-16
- -------s--> >r.---------- ---------@-----
HOLIDAYS This Week

Monday~~ln French Indo- China.
Tucsday~~In French Indo- China.
Wedncsday-~In Grcce and Ncwfound-
land.
The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1919-05-02

Tyrus Raymond Cobb and Napoleon
ers who can bark back to the start
of their baseball days in the balmy
climate of Georgia.
Some of the famous men of the dia-
mOnd, exclusive of the sensational I'll
ger and once brilliant southpaw of the
Dodgers, began careers in Georgia that
vaulted them to the pinnacle of their
profession.
An old man who has spent his years
keeping tabs on ball players and peach
crops was sitting in the park where
the Tigers were training at Macon,
whiting on a piece of wood with a
robust blade the size Of young scythe.
Fan Never Misses Game.
He is an ardent fan, misses a game
only when he can't get out of bed be-
cause of rheumatism, and knows every
ball player that ever fingered ball in
the South Atlantic league circuit.
He remembers how Ty Cobb, more
than fourteen years ago, then a boy
just barely turned seventeen, packed
the fans in the Macon ball yard just
as he attracts them to the big stadi-
umS of the North. He recalled, too,
how the Macon fans quit on the man
agement when in midseason, it sold
"Rube" Benton to the Cincinnati
Reds.
Phil Douglas, now star with the
Cubs, and Jim Vaughn, who led the Ma
tional league pitchers last season, re-
ceived their first check for playing ball
from the local management.
Boycott Because of Benton.
Veteran fan has distinct recollection
of Benton and the riot his sale caused.
"You couldn't get standing room in
the park" explained the old man, "be-
The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1919-05-02
Chicken on a JaQ.

A chicken owned by woman living
near Jeffersonville, Ind, "gOt on
Jag" a day or two ago but it was the
owners fault, the chicken might plead.
She had some whisky put away, used
on physicians prescription for her
heart. The chicken was sick and she
diagnosed the case as heart trouble so
thought she would try the same rem
edy. She gave it ''the tiniest drop"
but the chicken did not need much.
Neighbors say they are satisfied the
chicken was cured, but it Immediately
began a furious war dance, exempli-
fed the different steps of all the differ
ent redskin tribes, passed from these
to the waltz, two-step, one-step and
other dances not yet invented, and &C
cording to the faithful narrator tried
to sing "The Star-Spangled Banner"
but this is probably an exaggeration,
even if not actually untrue.
The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1919-05-02
ALEXANDER r. SKINKER,
Captain, 13sth Infantry.

Capt. Alexander r. Skinker ode
ceased) was decorated for conspicuous
gallantry in action at Cheppy, France,
September 26. 1918. Unwilling to sac
rifice his men when his company was
held up by terrific machine gun fire
from iron pill boxes in the HindeR-
burg line, Captain Skinker personally
led an automatic rifleman and a car
rier in an attack on the machine guns.
The carrier was killed instantly, but
Captain Skinker seized the ammuni-
ton and continued through an opening
matte rifle until he was killed, too.
His widow lives at GIG EImwood ave.
nue., st. Louis, Mo.
The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1919-05-02
OSCAR r. MILLER,

Maj. Miller received the Distinguish
ed Service Cross for conspicuous gall
lantry in action near GesneS, France,
September 2S, 1913. After two days
of intense physical and mental strain,
during which Maj. Miller had led his
battalion in the front line of the adj
vance, through the forest of ArgOnne,
the. enemy was met in prepared pO-
sition south of .Gesnes. Though al
most exhausted, he theoretically re-
organized his battalion and ordered
an attack. Upon reaching open
ground, the advancing line began to
waver in the face of machine gun fire
from the front and TANKS and direct
artillery fire. Personally leading his
command group forward between his
front line companies, Maj. Miller in
Spired his men by his personal cOur-
age and they again pressed on toward
the hostile position. AS this officer
led the renewed attack he was shot
in the right leg, but he nevertheless
staggered forward at the head Of his
command. Soon afterward he was
again shot in the right arm. but he
continued the charge, personally cheer
ing his troops on through the heavy
machine gun fire. Just before the OBJ
jective was reached he received a
wound in the abdomen, which forced
him to the ground, but he continued
to urge his men on, telling them to
push on to the next ridge and leave
him where he lay. He died from his
wounds a few days later. Maj. Mil
ler's widow lives at 1927 West Fifty
first street, Los Angeles, Cal.
The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1919-05-02
PATRICK GkRRITY,
Private Company c, 354th
Infantry,

Private Clarity. was decorated for
conspicuous bravery in action near
RemOnville, France, November l, 1918.
When his company was advancing
across an open field an enemy machine
gun opened fire upon it from the left
front. Private Garrity and two other
pany, Immediately advanced upon it.
His two comrades were shot down,
but Private Clarity advanced alone at
Il run; and with his bayonet drove
the three Germans from their guns
into nearby dugout, capturing them
and the gun. Private Garrity'S home
address is 3741 Kenmore avenue, Chi,
cago, Ill.