davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1919-06-05

WHEN VITALITY IS LOWERED
Take HorsfOrd's Acid Phosphate
Relieves exhaustion due to summer
heat. over-work, or worry Cooling.
Omaha daily bee., 1919-06-05
NEWEST TRIMMED STYLES REDUCED

Millinery of unsurpassed style and quality, with
the little unexpected novelties in trimmings that
"tel" The colors are so varied that you NAV
feel certain of finding hat for any frock, and
there are shapes to meet every type. Rosemary
hats, you know, have style and quality Of
workmanship that is unmistakable You must
be sure to view this collection.
Omaha daily bee., 1919-06-05
Towel Sale
Thursday

4 Brocaded Turkish tow
els. Regularly 81; Thurs
day, 75c.
4 Hemmed buck towels;
formerly 35c; Thursday,
Csc. \
4 Turkish wash cloths; a
quality selling for 1215c;
Thursday, 1Oc each.
Linen Section
Omaha daily bee., 1919-06-05
Specials in
Underwear

Women's mercerized vests
with plain, hemstitched
tops. Thursday, Csc.
Lisle union suits with bod
ice tops. All sizes. Csc.
Lisle union suits, fine
ribbed, with a fitted or
wide knee, $1.75.
Extra large sizes, 81.
Omaha daily bee., 1919-06-05
SENATE ADOPTS
MEASURE TO Give
VOTES TO WOMEN
Historic Susan B. Anthony
Constitutional Amendment
Now Goes to States for
Ratification.
Continued from Page One.

derwood. Williams and Wolcott.
Fatal ~
The sun., 1919-05-04

president, Mrs. n. NJ. Pond; honorary
vice-presidents, Mines. William Samuel
Hawk, Samuel Shtpley Blood, William r.
Chapman, Frank Scott Gerrish, julius
Hart. J. Franklin Kehoe. Frank Main.
James Merrihew, George Joseph Smith,
Frank Keith Taylor William Jerome
Toomey, Herman G. Witherspoon, John
Williams; treasurer. Mrs. Edward Da-
Wis Jones: corresponding secretary, Mrs.
Mullin H Wayne; recording secretary,
Mrs. George o. Cole: auditor, f. Eli
wood Briggs: directors (term expiring
t922), William Grant Brown, Miss Anne
liza Day Campbell, Mrs. Franklin Fulton
Hodges Edward Davis Jones, Mrs. Ed
ward Davis Jones, Mrs. Hugh Reid Law
ford, Charles Thorley; chairman finance
committee, Edward Davis Jones: chair
man membership committee, Miss Anne
liza Day Campbell.
The report OF the treasurer showed
the permanent fund OF the school now Is
Sl15, 900 in round figures, and the gen
eral fund Is $4,000. A campaign has
been started to raise the permanent fund
TO 100000.
The attendance at the school has been
remarkable, and plans are NOW being
made for transferring the school to the
Lulu Thorley Lyons Home at Claverack,
N. Y, where 1t will remain during the
The San Jacinto day ball, which was
given Tuesday evening at the Hotel
Plaza by the Texas Club, celebrated
Texas Victory Day, always observed as
a carnival time in the Lone Star State.
II also served to do honor TO the Texas
boys In the military and naval service
who are in New York. The AFFAIR was
dictinctly Texan. The Lone Star at one
end of the hall and the Alamo. cradle OF
Texas liberty, at the other in electric
lights, contributed to the picturesque
decorations. The music. which also was
in keeping with the occasion. included
many Southern melodies and jazz music,
under the direction of Clyde Blalock Of
Waco, Texas. There were songs by
Miss Edora Stanford, accompanied by
Miss Louise Samson, both Of Waco.
Fifty boys from the hospitals were
special guests of the club. occupying the
boxes. where hot coffee and sandwiches
were served 70 them. reception pre-
ceded the dance. the president Of the
club being assisted In greeting the sew
erai hundred guests and special honor
guests ~ the vics-prssidsnt, Mrs. AIDE
The sun., 1919-05-04


thread. cut a hole in the middle, and
dropped It over her head.
Directoirettes Gown.
Perhaps the most Individual tea
gown Of the spring was one worn at
country house party by woman
who Is less exotic than interesting.
She copied it from a print OF the
turbulent time in France during the
first part of the eighteenth century.
1t was almost purely Directoire. She
made 1t of white satin with a fiat
drapery Of black lace over each shout
der, down the sides, and stretching out
into a train. The belt, which defined
the high waistline, was of velvet rib
bon. and the short Josephine sleeves
were Of white chiffon. She tied her
black satin slippers to her white
stockings with black velvet ribbons,
and she wore the type of necklace
that was fashionable during that era.
Her hair was arranged after the man
ner adopted by the women who had
Just escaped the guillotine but had
| not escaped having their hair cut
while in prison.
This type of tea gown serves for n
formal dinner as we'll as any other
kind OF evening entertainment, al
though 1t is primarily intended as an
informal house robe. 1t has com
panions in economy, for there are tel
gowns sent from Paris to smart
women in this country which show
that the French are adopting the
compromise costume, as it is called.
There is one OF black satin. for in
stance; which has been constantly worn
by a hostess OF distinction who uses
it as a tea gown in the late afternoon
and as a dinner frock when she is
asked out. The black satin slip sweeps
over the ankles and drops backward
to a train. and there are curious
sleeves formed from two wide bands
| of gold lace which are part of a deep
cape that drops from the shoulders
like a court train and is weighted with
a thick golden tassel that keeps 1t IN
straight line.
In opposition to this formal type Of
tea gown there are costumes which
make the wearer look bit more I'M
dressed than in any evening gown of
Il the past. The demand for translucent
| fabrics, the unlined bodice, the bare
! arm and the short house skirt gives a
woman a chance to appear as negli-'
gently clothed as an Oriental dancer.
| mass of glttering beads, a fen
gorgeous tassels, a sweeping shoulder
drapery of mauve or rose pink chiffon,
are exceedingly alluring, but the last
generation would certainly have been
| shocked at a costume made up Of SO
| little.
The sun., 1919-05-04

that have been associated with women
from the dawn of dress.
In reverting to this life Of another
day, the Americans have followed in
the path Of the English women, Just as
the French did during the last two
years Of the war. A tea gown de luxe
took the place Of formal dinner gown,
released a one-piece frock from indoor
service and served as a compromise
between keeping on ones day clothes
and dressing for dinner
1t must be admitted that these new
tea gowns are not simple: they do not
spell economy. Many of them look and
are wildly extravagant. They have
the brilliancy of the East, the color of
China and Japan, the exotic appear
ance of the creations of Paul Poiret in
his best days.
The reason they allow a large play OF
individuallsm, and this delights tho
average woman. is that they do not
conflne themselves to the limitations
set down by fashion. We know that
the new silhouette is bell shaped below
the knees and that It is the forerunner
Of an utter and drastic change in
IL uOtb GlOt SttfIl pTOUdDle InaI
this change can fall fiat or that It
lacks the power TO overturn what has
been worn for two years; so while
women are puzzling their heads and
shaking their purses to find out what
they can do 10 make n narrow skirt
full and plain skirt draped they can
indulge their freest fancy in tea gowns
without an anxious thought.
There is no idea Of incorporating the
full skirt into this type of costume.
which now reaches into all strata of
society and has become a dominating
spring habit. Not only are the skirts
narrow but they are often shockingly
short.
A certain matron given over to bril-
liant and somewhat exotic dressing, re-
Gently appeared at her own dinner table
in a tea gown that made her husband
The sun., 1919-05-04

Baruch, Mrs. Edward Burton Williams.
Mrs Belle de Rivera, Mrs. Percy V.
Pennypacker. Mrs n. Archibald shaw.
Miss Genevieve X. b. Andrews. Mrs
Howard MacNutt, Mrs. Katherine A
Martin, Mrs. Charles II. Griffin and Mrs.
William Einstein.
For the benefit OF the Red Cross a Sc
ries OF NOR ling current event lectures by
Mrs. Marion Gaylord Atwell was re-
Gently completed at the residence OF Mrs.
Judd Edwin Wells, 30 Riverside Drive.
Mrs. Atwell will give a series next
season under the auspices of the New
York Colony OF the National Society OF
New England Women.
Minerva Club, Mrs Mary Stokes Mac
Mutt president. enjoyed its last luncheon
OF the season on Monday at the Hotel
Waldorf-Astoria. 1t was preceded by a
business meeting. Members were asked
to take canned foods or preserves for
the crippled children at the Seaside
Home. Following the luncheon addresses
were given by Col. Hayward, Gen. AZ
gapatian and Hyacinthe Ringrose. The
subject Of the day was '"rhe League OF
Nations" Miss Jennie Slater was
chairman of music. which made up the
programme. The specially invited guests
included Major G. L. Owens, Miss Eve
Ign Goldsmith, Mrs Robins A. I.au, Mrs
A. NJ Palmer and Mrs. Laura Bur-
roushs.
Members OF the Washington Heights
Chapter, Daughters OF the American
Revolution. Mrs Samuel j. Kramer
regent, will have their annual luncheon
Saturday at the Hotel Biltmore.
A euchre party. reception and dance
for the benefit OF the Catholic Summer
School was held Friday evening at the
Waldorf Astoria Hotel. The reception
was in honor of Father Duffy. chaplain
OF the 165th Regiment. Father DufYy
has always been deeply interested In the
summer School. and has never failid &c
further Its aims, 1t was the first op.
portunity his many friends had to vel
come him home. The reception was fol-
lowed by cards and dancing. George ]
Gillespie was chairman Of the committee
in charge. Frank Z. Cunnion treasurer
and Francis J. Hogan secretary. Among
those who secured boxes were Mgr. Mich.
ael J. LaveIlas the Countess do Laugiers
The sun., 1919-05-04

Villars, Thomas F. Ryan, Morgan J.
O'Brien. Mrs. Nicholas F. Brady, Edward
Il. Mccall. Joseph +, Grace, Thomas f.
Conway. Charles NJ. Schwab. John d.
Ryan. James Butler, Alan Ryan, John G.
Agar, John +. O'Rourke, Bryan T.. Ken
nelly, George w. Loft, Myles Tierney.
George J. Gillespie, Ernest Iselin. Frank
S, Cannon, Thomas Lenane, NJ. ]. Sulli-
van Henry Heide. the Rev. John P. Child
wick, Charles V. Fornes, John F. Gal
win, William r. King, Mrs. Andrew
man and the Rev. Luke Evers and
Thomas +, Smith,
The next of the new series of dances
for officers Of the army, navy and marine
corps will be given Saturday evening AT
the Holland House. They will be con-
tinucd weekly during the spring The
hostesses will be Mrs. G. II. Stockham.
Mrs, f. H. Wildes. Mrs A. V. Sims, Mrs
F. c. Woods. Mrs. A. II. Burroughs and
Mrs, f. n. Holbrook.
4 successful musicale and dance was
| given Friday evening at the homo OF
Mrs. N. Archibald Shaw, Ninetieth street
and Riverside Drive, for the benefit OF
the patriotic fund of the National So
| ciety or Patriotic Women of America
Mrs William r. Stewart president.
Under the auspices of the LehboK
Juniors of the silver Cross Day Nur-
sery a card party and dance was given
on Friday evening at the Hotel Plaza
This organization helps to support
nursery at 249 East 117th street, where
mothers who are forced to be bread
winners may leave their babies daily
Mrs. s. C. Clendening is honorary presi-
dent of the auxiliary: Miss Dorothy
Hearne. president Miss Gertrude Finck
vice president Mrs. z. w. Taylor, cor
responding secretary. and Miss Marie
Marlborough. recording secretary
The Society Of Pennsylvania Women
N New York will present an exhibition
OF classical and interpretative dances by
pupils OF Miss Claire Holcomb Bloss for
the benefit OF the war relief work OF
the society. in te grand ballroom of the
Hotel Aston Saturday afternoon, at Q 30
o'clock. Seventy-five children In costume
will take part In the programme Of
| grOs-p and solo dances. Among those
The sun., 1919-05-04

lie Educational Association. 1t is or
ganized to increase a knowledge and APP
probation OF nature by city children not
only for the pleasure such knowledge
will bring them, but also because It
makes for better citizenship.
Owing to the difficulty Of obtaining
any mature" to study in a city like
New York. the league hopes to open and
maintain study rooms to be used as a
clearing house for the reception and dis
tribution of nature material under the
charge of n curator and by holding ex-
hibitions in the schools of flowers. fruits,
twigs. MOSES, nests, cocoons. shells. &C,
at stated intervals. Prof. Henry Fair
field Osborn is honorary president of the
board of directors of the league John
Burroughs. honorary vice-president Mrs.
John I. Northrop. president DIR. Gustave
Straubenmuller, first vice-president Mrs.
William c. Pepper, second vice-presi-
dent; Mrs. Howard Van Sinderen, third
vice-president Mrs. Samuel Weiss. cor
responding secretary; Prof. Emile o.
Long, recording secretary. and Miss Jes-
sic Rosenfeld, treasurer.
On the advisory board are DR.. Edward
Stitt and Cecil Kidd, Department OF
Education: George II. Sherwood, Mu-
scum of Natural History; Miss Emma ID.
Huebner, Associate AlumnH Hunter
College Miss Ida NJ. Mellen. New York
Aquarium; Gilbert Pearson, Natural AS
ISOLATION of Audubon Societies; Miss
Florence overton. New York Public Lii
brary; Leo Arnstein, Max Selling. NG
Frank, Ezra II. Fitch and William
Weiss.
Inviting the Soul OF America" was
the topic OF an address by the Rev. Will
lam +. Martin at the meeting and lunch
con OF the Eclectic Club, Mrs. Albert
Garfield Bage president on Wednesday
at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.
Mrs. Percy V. Pennypacker, former
president of the National Federation OF
Womens Clubs, also made an address
Miss Mildred Graham, soprano, sang two
groups OF songs and Hans Kronold
played violoncellO solos. Lazar Elkind's
trio orchestra played and Miss Edith
Morgan Savage was the accompanist
Mrs. Charles G. Braxmar was chair
man of music and Mrs. Darwin Walter
Truss chairman OF luncheon.
The guests OF honor included Mrs. Johr
Lewis Childs Mrs. Stephen d. Stephens
Miss Helen yaricle Boswell, Mrs. Sinner
The sun., 1919-05-04

liza Key Foster, Dean Preston OF Flower
Hospital and Mrs. Preston. Commander
and Mrs. Koch OF the battleship Texas
Mrs. Simon Baruch, president of the
Southland Club; Commissioner and Mrs.
Royal Copeland. Mrs. w. F. Coe, wife
OF Lieut.-Col. Coe, abroad in France ;
DR.. and Mrs. Myron T Scudder and
others. The floor managers were Win
Dunklin and DR.. Ben Witt Key. Mr.,
Dunklin led the grand march with Mrs.
Lyle and DR.. Key danced with Mrs.
Preston. Bernhard Wall led the paul
Jones'" which was feature of the
evening. Supper parties were formed at
midnight the president and Mr.. Lyle
having as their guests all the honor
guests and receiving party.
A special guest was Josef Lorkorski.
a young sculptor from Fort Worth,
Texas, who has Just been mustered out
Of the Marine Corps. He has on exhi-
bition as part Of the Victory Loan ex-
hibit a sculptured MARINE in Action"
which was gift from him to the Ma
rins Club In Washington and which was
brought over to New York for the Vic
tory Loan drive. 1t IL placed at Forty.
eighth street and Fifth avenue. The
president OF the club, Mrs. Robert wylie
Lyle. is prominently connected with q
number of organizations in this city
including the Dixie Club. the Southlad
and the Flower Hospital Auxiliary. Las,
weeks ball was the first social function
OF her administration as president OF
the Texas Club.
Many New Workers. attended the must
Gale recently given by Miss Pullman of
146 st. Johns place. Brooklyn. Fhe
programme was performed by Bruno
HUM and his Masonic Quartet, COM
posed of Roy Steele. Denton Bastow. Ed
ward Campbell and Duncan Cornwall
The School Nature League had its an
nual Spring Flower Show last week al
Public School 2. 116 Henry street, where
there was large attendance from Tues
day until Friday. In connection with
the exhibition there were nature rooms
at Public Schools 20. Is Norfolk street
22, at Stanton and Sheriff streets, and
Is, at 1873 East Fifth street.
The league is an Outgrowth OF the work
carried on for twenty-five years by Mrs
John /. Northrop. assisted by the Natu,
| raj Science Committee OF the Associate
Alumne at Hunter College and the
Nature Material Committee- OF the Pub.
The sun., 1919-05-04

crudescence Of coouetry. They
L have every reason for their be-
lief. Human nature runs true to form.
1t acts and reacts as 1t has since the
dawn Of civilization. Sartorially, we
can go no further back, although per-
haps the cave woman let down her
hair to her knees and clothed herself
in some peculiar brilliancy Of birds
plumage and animals hides when hei
warrior had ceased clubbing his rivals
and peace and prosperity reigned in
the cave.
If coquetry in dress comes back to
women. 1t will not be a reversal to an
immediate pre-war period. Much wa
ter has gone under the bridge since
that peculiar feminine quality was ex-
pressed in clothes. Woman's costum-
cry Is the outward and visible sign of
an inward and spiritual condition, and
ooquetry. as such, was thought to be
dead. The dictionary impresses upon
our minds the fact that "coquetry Is
pretence Of affection" and the entire
world has rested its definition Of CO.
Quetry on the belief that it is a SEM
blanoe, apd not an actually, Of mental
and moral beliefs. -
Generations Of women in this coun-
try have been brought up to regard
"semblance" as the dignified, ladylike
and correct way to meet man. Long
lines of women throughout the centu-
Ho,
they were sturdy women full Of moral
character when it came to the position
OF wife and mother. the bearer Of bur-
dens and the sharer of joys.
ArtinciaIity Toward Men.
In the early days of our civilization,
women taught their daughters this
same attitude Of slight artificiality to-
ward men; in fact they We're not even
tod TO be entirely truthful or honest
with other women when il came to the
questions OF love, vanity, marriage and
clothes. Ladylike" was the word
most commonly used for this form of
demeanor. To tell the price of any
thing, to discuss ones private affairs
with anybody. to admit that a gown
had been made over in the house, that
a man was agreeable to one. that invi-
tations to parties were eagerly sought
these were things that the wellbred
woman was trained not to do.
Her clothes were a symbol of her at
ttude toward the world, or especially
toward the masculine sex. She wore
the things that made her look pretty !:
she put on what was supposed to be
demurely alluring; she concealed that
which was ugly about her and ac-
centuated that which was attractive,
tfcial means.
Then something happened to the
world Of women. A great monstrous
hand reached out and brushed all CO.
quetry and artificialities into the dump
heap. Women wore what was gro
tesque,as often as they wore what was
lovely. They despised the word
pretty" To be called pretty" was a
blow TO the majority of girls and
matrons. They talked of style. Of eff
fectiveness, of individuality. They &C
centuated their ugliness, if it made
them effective. They did whatever
they could to be different from their
neighbors. They repressed curves,
they abhorred a figure" they de-
Tested an erect carriage. They grew
out Of all semblance to the long lines
OF women who had preceded them
and their clothes represented their
mental condition-which was one of
rebellion against tradition.
They carried screaming. flaming BAN
ners Of honesty; they believed in tell
The sun., 1919-05-04
COQUETRY APPEARS IN THE LATEST DRESS AND GOWN
Reinstatement Of Home Life in All
It's Various Phases Brings About
New Type of Costumery

Ing everything they knew; and they
admitted men into full comradeship, as
they would women. They considered
their mothers as old fashioned as Char
lotte Brontes heroines.
Into the midst OF this almost appall-
ing honesty, this attitude Of sexless-
ness. as many critics have described
IT. came the war. Then every quality
that woman had cultivated in the last
decade was brought to bear in order to
give her efficiency. She threw aside
the fragments of coquetry and reserve
that remained and entered the war
with the spirit of a man.
Then the war ceased, and she had
reached the apex Of her modern phase.
She could go no further.
Peace Brings New Phase.
Now she is beginning to swing back
to her former state. 1t Is Of extreme
psychological interest. II may be a
tendency toward a condition that will
not eventuate, but It nevertheless in
terests the students Of dress II COM
pels the dressmakers to pause; It has
already begun to revolutionize the sill
nouette' II mas changed the tactics OF
the milliners; therefore. there should
be none to rise and say that It is in
significant. 1t may revolutionize the
industry Of apparel. 1t may be the
beginning Of a new era. The woman
OF to-day can never swing backward
into coquetry as far as her grand
mothers niche. but she can take on
the semblance of day that was.
The foremost tendency away from
the situation Of the last four years is
the revival Of home life. There was
little heart for entertaining when the
world was at war. Even before Amer
lea went into the struggle the vast
majority Of important women had been
giving their time to war work, and
they banished social gayety from their
homes, although they sometimes in
obliged in it in public places. There
was no o'clock tea because there
The sun., 1919-05-04

were no women to attend it; there
we're few dinners because every one
was too exhausted from the days
work to get into harness and be cheer
full and entertaining to outsiders at
7 o'clock.
Life resolved itself into a Puritan
schedule. Even wealthy women. and
those who had hitherto been inclined
toward a gay life, kept down their
purchases of clothes to street suits
and an occasional, a very occasional
evening gown.
This spring there is a cropping up OF
home entertaining which Is on a par
with the bursting into bloom Of crocus
and daffodil and violet. Women in
every stratum OF society have begun
to revert to the sociabilities of home
life. Dinners are constant, afternoon
tea is served in town and country, war
work has practically ceased for the
thousands. and relaxation and leisure
have come in with the glamour Of
spring.
This is the condition that fosters
coquetry. This is the atmosphere In
which 1t grows. When women begin
to dress for their own homes. when all
that intimate social life is revived
among householders, then there comes
disposition to look ones best, to wear
those frail, diaphanous, trailing things
The sun., 1919-05-04
Dame Fashion Adopts Exotic and Pic
turesque Roses From England for Af-
.ternoon Teas or Informal Dinners

intervals 1t was banded with gold lace,
and It showed an unusual swing of
gold colored legs and gold slippers.
Over this slip was the "tablecloth." 1t
was an immense square Of yellow tulle
lavishly embroidered In a barbaric
manner with heavy gold threads. 1t
had an oblong opening in the middle
through which the head was slipped.
and its corners were weighted with
tassels of gold beads that dripped to
the floor.
1t was exotic and quite magnificent
enough to warrant its price; but, as a
woman guest said who had observed II
It could be copied at home with a
square of chiffon over which was
thrown a tracery of silver or gold
thread that could be bought at the art
department Of shop, while the UNDER
slip could be made from a tight satin
lining that was part Of an ancient
evening gown.
The sun., 1919-05-04

servation. but she produced her theory
In concrete form at her own dinner
party a few days later. She took a
straight white satin slip left from a
voluminous evening gown. banded it
with silver lace. then an immense
The sun., 1919-05-04

Insist she had forgotten her skirt and
come out in her short under petticoat.
He further described the gown as a
petticoat beneath and a tablecloth
above. The underslip, which was Of
Jonquil yellow satin. was as tight and
straight as an old Egyptian robe. At
The sun., 1919-05-04

taking part are Ruth Jones. Elizabeth
Hopkins, Janet and Winfield Lee. Helen
Hueffnor and Stella Rae Carter Tick
cts at 81 may be obtained from Miss
Bloss, 526 West 18TH street, or at the
Aston before the performance.
Phalo Club, Mrs James McCullagh