Evening star., 1919-04-13
Fashion Authorities This Country Think WIN Lenethen
of June Frocs in Accordance With Ideas Of American Women
The Tendency Of New Spring Go,Dns-Ornamenta1 Cafes
of the Season-Choker Collar in Fashion.

back whatever. merely three pear
jewels or galloon and held up by q
necklace that goes around the neck,
and not over the shoulders.
The minority will not rule the ma
the American dressmakers do not
sponsor them. and many of the French
houses have neglected to combine the
two features. although they often
show one or the other.
In America. we will adopt the mod
crate fashion. In social life the Anglo
SaXons have not objected to quite
low decolletage. and they will con-
tinue 1t; but their bodices will not be
merely pieces of cloth reaching from
with the top at the line Of the bust.
That the new French fashion will
govern certain details of our clothes
is to be expected. Yet the best of the
France will change her style as
tribute to our refusal to accept 1t.
1t fs firmly believed by those who
are In close personal touch with the
Paris designers that they intend to
abandon the short skirt for the June
actual peace fashions will appear.
IN the meantime there Is no dearth
Of good and attractive ideas in this
country which all the women can fol-
and the public.
The short skirt can he accepted in
moderation; speaking honestly, it is a
FAR more suitable and graceful style
instep- length skirt with its tightness
at the knees.
The skirt that laps in front and does
not have a seam is another attractive
idea that we can fitch from the ex-
treme French clothes; the short
sleeves are suitable under wrap and
for country life. and although we may
deplore their common acceptance for
the street it is quite probable that
they will be a leading fashion among
all classes of women.
This disposes of the worst features
OF the new French clothes. The best
features are likable. The return of
navy blue serge. of taffeta. of silk jer-
American public: 1t likes these fab
rics. 1t cares little for the somber
black evening gowns that have pre-
vailed at our openings. and the pub
lie will probably choose the pastel
over the hips. the lace petticoat and
the garlands Of roses. They are a bit
weary of metal cloth and metallic
brocade. so they will push these aside
III Ia WI VI Sllh lct lulic WItH 6cQuHIb
and beads and wondrously colored
chinons, one color superimposed on
an another in the oriental manner.
"A fashion that may be run to the
ground Is the tassel, in all it's forms.
There is tendency on the part of the
designers to shower tassels over the
surface of frocks and to use kind of
embroidery that has a pendant Orna-
ment from the center of each design.
There is 81 strong movement in every
n mt N In
over tight surface. 1t may not be
the most comprehensive description
Of this phase Of fashion, but the pub
lie. probably; viii understand It. 1t
ways; in lines or groups OF tassels.
in long and short fringe, in swinging
streamers of ribbon, or roses, of me-
>tallic cloth, in groups of silken cords,
in strands of cut jet. in flying panels
of the material lined with vivid
color.
The forerunner Of this movement in
fashion was the prolific use of fringe
last spring. We finally succeeded In
suppressing fringe. and the result is
phases. Truly, there are certain even
ing gowns Of tulle from which drop
many strands. and balls. and tassels
Of crystals that resemble nothing so
much an 1840 chandeliers. All that
the possessOr needs to complete the
resemblance Is to stick q few wax
candles on the shoulders head and
hands.
II
BY the way, speaking Of 1910 and
other Victorian animate and inanimate
fashions. France returns the high,
choker collar. One of our buyers sug-
gested tha 1t was done to hide the
thinness OF the neck due to the under
feeding and fearful anxiety Of the
French women during the war. This
fashion, like the short skirt weaves
its way In and out Of the pattern of
feminine dress. 1t was worn less than
two decades after the civil war, and
1t was worn by Queen Elizabeth. This
gives some idea of it's persistence.
AS the French arrange 1t and as our
smart women are wearing 1t 1t is of
tet, monkey fur and ostrich tips. 1t
does not bind in the neck at the top,
exposing a double chin; 1T lifts itself
toward the ears and is exaggerated,
sometimes, toward the form which
Sarah Bernhard made famous.
Mind you, the choker collar is worn
today with a half-low frOck as we'll
as one that is deeply decollete. With
the ordinary street frock which is cut
low and round at the neck, there goes
a chOker collar which Is either plain
or fanciful. The plain ones are of
black satin and white linen, and one
was worn by a mannequin who showed
Il French model that made the woman
a vnI a Inn an n