davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-07-13

fabric hat has supplanted the straw
for summer wear. 1t used to be that
one saw only straw hats in the hot
days. but now we Gee velvet, silk.
crepe de chine. satin-the season does
not seem to matter in the least as TO
the choice OF material. And yet even
so the summer hat of fabric such az
these does not seem heavy and wintry
as one may suppose. Perhaps we have
become so accustomed 10 II that we
no longer find the wintry look such
chapeaux would have suggested some
years ago. For this reason the clever
makers have learned how to combine
satin and straw. as has been done in
some very small black sailors with
WIDER brims and shallower crowns than
the usual models. The tops of these
are entireIy OF black satin. Tho UNDER
brim is faced with black straw This
Eis a reversal OF the use of the summer
hat with its top of black straw and
the undertaking OF black velvet. These
Of course are used for the dressy
models.
have called attention before this
TO the unusual vogue of the white hat
1T has superseded all others for the
real summer wear and even appears
with tailleur costume on the city
streets. so extensive is the vogue of
the white.
The sun., 1919-07-13
CAMP CLOTHES AND OTHER SUMNER THINGS FOR GIRLS

things to recommend the choice. For
the same young fillette the plaid skirts
and smocks with dark blue coat or
cape are ideal. The smocks are for
the most part belted in and are not
left TO hang free as do the MILDLY
tlouseA
One OF the New Plaid skirts.
One OF the newest plaid skirts which
has Just arrived from "Caledonian"
hills has a shadow plaid OF dark blue
and brown mingling with a stripe OF
rose. very faint and through which
there runs enough black to soften all
Of the colors OF the piece. 1t Is OF
course killed as are the majority of
the plaid skirts.
Pongee skirts, Killed In the approved
manner and accordion pieated also
have been much used this summer for
girls OF this age-the age, that Is, Just
beyond the one piece dress and learn
Ing to keep skirt and waist carefully
together "A difiicult problem indeed
when one makes ones debut In shirt
waists. For this reason many moth
ers approve the French type OF dress,
Which tlhn IA
the average American and onto which
the skirt buttons. The skirt of this
IL pleated, as are the plaids and pom
gees, and because OF the buttons per
mits always fresh waist The waists
are little more than guimpes such Hs
very little girls wear, only they reach
we'll below the waist line and are
practically shapeless.
Capes have played 80 important a
part In the summer wardrobe that the
smallest children are wearing them
US well as those Of more advance"
years. Some of blue serge. with a
facing OF bright scarlet satin. are fas-
cinating and some repeat the exact
cut and color Of the naval officers. As
rule. however, the capes for girls
are not lined at all. A rather smart
model 10 made Of dark blue wool jer-
sey and has the REQUIRED tight shout
ders over which falls a rumpled collar
Of navy blue satin. This accompa-
The sun., 1919-07-13

with low crowns and irregular brims.
As to the sizes, one may take ones
choice with equal satisfaction between
the large and the small.
II Is interesting to note that the
fashion OF making ones hat out Of the
same material as ones dress. which
has been done during the summer, will
continue through the winter. espe-
tally with the duvetynes, velours and
smooth surfaced fabrics. It is possible
to embroider these at home, as many
clever needle women are doing, for
The stitches used follow. no design. but
are placed all over crown and brim In
Irregular long stitches In an indis-
criminate mingling of colors. OF
course harmony is perfectly main
tained in the color blending and the
whole presents an excellent effect.
Silver and gold threads will be much
used for velvet and plush hats. We
hear also that taffeta hats treated In
this fashion also are to be immensely
smart, just as they have been all
summer
The past week has brought out a
great variety Of felt chapeaux, for the
most part In the pale pastel shades
and largely of the so-called sport
types. One OF these IL Of bright yell
low felt untrimmed except for a thick
band OF tassels Of yellow and green
made Of the two shades OF wool and
The sun., 1919-07-13

this year. To be verY stylish there
must be included at least one challls
dress with its hat OF the same.
One OF the delightful dresses OF this
material which has been in such high
favor this year for all ages shows a
tiny rose red blossom on q white back
ground, tho blossoms powdering the
white thickly. The dress 10 cut In the
iimplest long lines, which are always
best for young and undeveloped
figures. A sash OF the challis piped
top and bottom with rose red satin
IL tied rather low around the waist
TO further aocentuats the long WASTED
effect 80 much In vogue. The sleeves
nre short to the elbow and finished
with three small ruffies, also piped
with the satin. The neck IL round and
low and the little poke bonnet which
II made to 30 with 1t Is OF the challis
with wide outstanding loops Of the
chailis piped with the satin placed
directly In front and held there by a
narrow twist OF the satin.
Field Flowers I'm Favor.
As TO the small girls hats--the field
flowers are more In favor than any
thing eise-corn flowers, daisies, but
tercups. peoples and wheat often APP
pearlng In a gay garland around the
crown OF leghorns or wide brimmed
straws. Streamers OF ribbon reach
quite to. the hem OF the short skirts In
the back. This 10 q typical American
hat. The small French girl will have
something somewhat more elaborate II
for dressy wear and something much
palmer II for school and play.
For the young person Just arriving
at the age when her hair goes UP and
her skirts come down the small round
hats with their upturned saucer brims
are just the sort of thing most suited.
One Of these IN dark brown straw
has the upturned brim faced with dark
blue georgette placed In q series OF
narrow pleats and foids A band Of
the blue ge0rEette encircles the crown.
This u an excellent travelling hat and
does not lose it, shape and coior-two
The sun., 1919-07-13
BY MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON

A we look back over the hats OF
"A spring and summer thus far
= displayed we note a surprising
simplicity not only in the designs and
shapes but in the trimming also. Our
summer headgear has not lost any in
beauty by this simplicity, however.
The smartest models have been those
with the least amount OF ornamental
tion-a feather fancy, an ostrich tip, a
jet pin or small buckle trim the trans
parent dressier models, and where
flowers are used the blossoms applied
singly and with the greatest artistic
effect have been the most popular.
Thus far we see no evidence OF
changing the character for the fall
fashions. In fact 1t seems certain the
sort Of hat destined to meet high
favor. at least for the earliest fall
wearing. are those fabric hats of du-
vetyne or velours which present a
very smooth. rich surface and are
thickly embroidered over crown and
brim with bright colored wool or silk
stitches done in heavy thread.
The small sailor Shapes with high
crowns are spoken of as heading the
procession Of other shapes. Likewise
we hear a good deal about wide hats
The sun., 1919-07-13
HE IEARLY FALL HATS RETAIN SIMPLICITY I'm DESIGNS
Sartet Models Like Those Of Summer Garry Least Amount Of Orna
mentatonFabc Hats of Detyne Veous Seem Destined High
of Making Hats Out Of Same Material Dress Will Con-
Small Sailor Shapes With High Crowns Are Among Leaders

encircling the brim, giving the effect
of Hawaiian dancers skirt. The
tassels are placed just as close to-
gether as possible. OF course the nov
city strikes one at once. Companion
ing this sort OF hat Is a trimming OF
Felt fringe placed on a pale gray felt
The fringe is made by cutting a circle
rom gray felt and slashing II In mar
row strips and placing the circle
around the crown of the hat. Now
and then this sort Of trimming Is
made Of two colors, one strip Of the
felt fringe being placed above the
ether - for instance. gray and black
being successfully used on a wide gray
felt sailor. Navy blue and white have
been used in this way, and that new
color combination of which we are
destined to see so much, brown and
green. p.
styles Vow in Vogue. ~
While the milliners seem to be CIV
ing a great deal Of attention to what
10 to come, those OF US who buy are
still considering with pleasure what is
set before US. The lovely silken hats
with their thick stitching and braid
ing completely covering the surface OF
the material remain in favor for trot-
teur hats for town wear. In the coun-
try and at the seashore the dropping
foppy brims are permitted and most
The sun., 1919-07-13
By ANNE RITTENHoUSE.

That It should become her is the
first essential in negligees. is the
opinion OF prominent designer OF
this type OF woman's apparel. This
Is not only what should be the case,
but what actually is; for although
women think first OF fashion when 1t
comes to street attire and formal
evening attire, their first consideration
when selecting n negligee and the
more intimate sort OF evening things
Is whether It makes them appear TO
best advantage. For this reason there
Is always a wider variety Of styles in
this line of apparel.
The statement sometimes Is made,
OF course. that such and such style
IL all out in negligee apparel, or that
the new style OF negligee wear is thus
and so, but there are really as many
styles as there are types of women.
The other day one OF the big shops
advertised a new line OF negligees that
were built along lines that suggested
the straight but ample lines OF
Greek or Roman goddess. These, said
the advertising man, were the new
negligees, leaving US 20 infer that II
We went on wearing any other sort we
would be quite out of It.
Now. Of course, there are many
women TO whom these rather severe
lines are not especially becoming
There are some women who are al
ways most attractive In something
that is lacy and frilly. II such a
woman Is wise she goes on wearing
the lacy, frilly thing even though
the shops may be showing the most
brilliant sort of Oriental negligees
rich with metallic and highly colored
embroidery but quite guiltless OF the
purely Occidental effect OF frilliness.
Just as reticent Is this type OF woman
to wear the severe Roman or Greek
negligees. But the woman who
looked immensely interesting in elias
steal drapery but dowdy In frllls Of
course would not wait until this sort
OF thing came into fashion before
wearing II.
The whole idea is that II doesn't
matter at all IL one does look conspic-
uous in ones home, or rather that
whether ono looks conspicuous or not
is a matter OF contrast; and in the
home there IL no contrast because
there are only the members Of ones
own family" Not TO appear oonspicu-
Gus IN the street one has to wear
The sun., 1919-07-13

MES a white shirtwaist and a killed
plaid skirt in the blue tones.
Velvet Jackets lined with a very
thin white silk are very smart this
summer for little people, especially
with white pique or linen skirts. 1t Is
curious notion, but one which re-
pays its followers. this use OF velvet
In summer. for a smart little black
coat can be worn we'll into the winter
and most mothers hail with JOY any
sort OF wrap or cloak that can sue
cessfully overlap the seasons.
a black ana white plaid skirt with
this sort OF little Jacket is very smart
indeed-and by a curious reverse OF
the picture one finds this combination
OF black and white with a little Jacket
or the black and white wool topping d
narrow black velvet skirt This sort
OF coat Is seldom sleeveless, though 1t
is seen now and then. Scarlet velvet
worn with a white serge skirt is new
and very smart and one even finds a
skirt OF hunters green topped with a
brilliant velvet coat of this hue and
fastened with shiny brass buttons.
Tricorne hats of hne straw, white or
black, look best with this type of
dress. White serge capes also are very
smart for wear with white skirts.
Young girls being so very narrow,
capes seem just the ideal wrap for
their pencil slenderness. Some en-
chanting litth wraps OF soft satin in
the palest colors have been brought
out for wear with party frocks. They
nave enough fulness to flare prettily,
though they show the same tight
shoulders seen in all OF the late models.
Net frocks for party occasions are
new and lovely and usually hIl the
girlish heart with fiutterings OF happi-
ness when donned. There is evidenced
little attempt at trimming these be-
yond rufiles Of net and a simple sash
Of some lovely color and fine ma.eria,
the old adage about beauty unadorned
IL adorned the most" being indeed
true when beauty Is little more than
ls and her youth offers It's own
charm.
The sun., 1919-07-13
Daring Designs for Gowns

Probably the first person who ever
thought Of reproducing rose blossoms
or any other s1rt OF flowers on fabric
was regarded as very daring. Prob
ably the idea seemed ridiculous. Yet
now we take It for granted that flow
ers shall be reproduced on fabrics and
Powered silks and lawns and wolfe and
ribbons are too usual TO call for special
comment.
But when II comes TO wearing a
gown showing designs OF Gothic cathe-
dral spires or a silk on which IL de-
picted a motif inspired by locomotive
that is quite a different proposition.
A very charming chiffon Get, consisting
OF boomers. night gown and chemise,
showed on each piece a large realistic
spider, with the lines denoting the web
stretching out across the ,..ire gar
ment. That was also regarded az quite
extreme. Some OF the new human"
motifs in designing are likewise
frowned upon by the conservative. Yet
when you see little Japanese ladies' on
a Japanese silk you think that Is quite
natural. There always have been Jap
anese ladies on japanese silks OF some
sort, and you are used to 1t. Also you
think nothing Of seeing a pagoda de-
picted on japanese silk. which in its
way isn't any less daring-or wasn't
when II WAS first used--than the
Gothic towers or the locomotive.
OF course, the more originality our
designers show the more reason We
have To think that we are living In a
creative period Of art development
For so long we have taken our fabric
designs from historic sources. for &c
long We have felt that nothing new
should be introduced into textile de.
sign. that It really does seem time thai
The sun., 1919-07-13

we tried something new. Some will be
without merit, but some of them, like
this Gothic tower design woven In silk
and metal in a new postwar French
silk, will be truly admirable.
One wonders what next. What IL our
designers seek their Inspiration from
their surroundings as did the great
masters of Japanese design in days
gone by. VIII We see telegraph poles
gIorifed into design? Will motor cars
have their place in textile art? The
airplane Is surely graceful and would
easily lend itself to decorative pur-
poses. Why might we not evolve q
decorative motif from this as good az
any OF the motifs OF the past7
The sun., 1919-07-13

points a trend. for it is likely we may
have motto hats with words OF wis
dom or nonsense done in big stitches
and heavy threads. I know OF no bet
ter way 20 rivet attention, for who
can stop looking until the words are
read or the design figured Quit took
me some minutes 10 decide what the
candle sticks and the small boy on
the above mentioned hat were intended
for, Hatter's plush had wide rage
last season--it seems IL is to be even
more popular this year. 1t had one
fault. however-it would rub. l have
heard Of a new plush called the Ar
COME" plush. which does not ruD
and presents an easy silken surface. 1t
matters not how II Is brushed.
The sun., 1919-07-13

The fuzzy fabrics, such as Angora
and brush WOOL will be much used as
a trimming. The thick fuzzy mate
rails are placed along the hat brims
and also as bands around the crown
and tied in fiat bows. Now and then
one finds the bows rather large. wired
20 that they stand up high and fiare
gracefully. This sort OF trimming has
indeed been extensively employed for
summer hats of organdy and lawn.
In one instance, at least. Il has been
used to good advantage on a bright
yellow organdy sailor. OF which the
Drim Is edged with a wide step OF
brown Angora and band of the same
used around the crown.
1t is interesting to observe how the
The sun., 1919-07-13

experience has taught her are the
most becoming. When she dresses
for occasions where she is TO appear
with a number OF other women she
thinks OF the fashion, and for such
clothes she goes to as good a Dress
maker as she can afford. because she
realizes that no one save a profess
sional dressmaker can reproduce the
fashion OF the moment, but when II
comes TO making the thing that will
be most becoming she knows that she
herself has the advantage over the
most celebrated dressmakers in tho
world.
The sun., 1919-07-13

Lovely embroidered bedroom sets In
clude curtains for the windows, bed
spread and bed fiounces. covers for
bureau and dressing table and hed-
room stand. and pin cushion. # Is
also possible to have embroidered COW
ers for little boudoir pillows and, of
course. by bit OF manipulation you
could At these patterns to almost any
other bit of bedroom furnishings
The sun., 1919-07-13
Some Essential Things in Negligees

clothes that are part Of the picture.
When skirts are narrow one does not
like TO wear very wide ones in spite
Of a natural preference for them sim
ply because in so doing one looks con-
spicuous.
The French woman OF fashion quite
often has her negligees made at home.
She makes them, in fact, with the aid
OF her little sewing woman who comes
in by the day. And the reason she
likes to do this is because she can
thus make the sort OF things that no
one knows 80 we'll as she herself how
to make. They are the things that
The sun., 1919-07-13
KNITTING BAGS.

Real knitting bags are still needed
too, for in spite of the lack OF war
knitting and the scarcely 81 sweaters
women still knit. One OF the pretty
knitting bags Is made OF soft cream
linen, OF heavy quality, on II is em-
broidered a seated lady knitting. and
the ball Of wool in her lap Is a real
little ball OF wool. Also, the diminul
tive servant who stands before hee
has real worsted, in little balls. in hfs
basket
The sun., 1919-07-13

Of dark blue serge are asked for and
one Of khaki. Strong we'll made IN
dergarments. preferably OF one piece,
are required and as q rule outing
flannel night gowns or paJamas ds Is
the preference OF the young wearer.
Woollen stockings are more desirable
this year than ever for we have
learned from our army tho necessity
Of comfortable feet. Sneakers OF can
vas are most comfortable and stout
walking boots for the hikes are in
dispensabie.
Petticoats arc not worn on the
camp grounds--indeed the petticoat a.
feminine garment Ia almost as little
seen as tho coon skin vests OF our
:Drefathers' day. Knickers and bloom
ers are the approved garments to-day.
Now al to the sleeping garments
there are some splendid one piece
pajamas brought out with feet to be
buttoned on which can be left on II 20
desired. Again there are night gowns
made with buttons and buttonholss
along the hem 30 that they can fasten
Up like q bag and keep the sleeper
very warm.
The MILDLY blouse has not changed
its type at all from It's FIRST appear
ance. but offers the same long lines
and great freedom of body as always,
The boomers worn with these middies
are full at the knees--so full indeed
that they have all the appearance OF
skirts. OF course 1t is easier by far to
buy these ready made. but they can be
made at homo with little trouble An
elastic band holds them In at the
waist. though some mothers prefer 70
have an underbody on which the tor
OF the boomers is sswed ana the walls,
part buttons down the back. An
elastic hand holds In the fulness a,
the knee.
GiaEhsms and CaIieoes.
While so many little EiFis--and big
ones too--wiil be camping we musl
not forest the charm Of the yeuna
persons summer clothes. dinEhaml
end calicoes abound In her wArdrobs
The sun., 1919-07-13

~ AMPING out has come to be as
much a part of the young
American girls summer life as
it has that OF her so recently
khaki-clad brother Perhaps, indeed.
it is to the summer camps for girls
that We may trace the present sim
p'icity of the young girls way OF
dressing as compared to the starched
and befrilled apparel OF another day.
In most OF these camps the rule re-
curing the plalnest and severoEt of
garments forbids any attempt at finc
Undertaking and as only MILDLY
blouses and boomers or knickefs are
worn except on Sundays or on an
occasional excursion into nearby city
there Is no need for more than two
simple frocks beyond the one In which
the camper has arrived In tho heart
Of tho woods.
Much 10 to bs said for this great
freedom in dress-mucb likewise is
to be said against 1t. The difficult
rroblems OF laundry prevent anything
beyond washing and manglingr-uo
starching or ironing is possible as a
rule in these places set so Ear out In
the mountains and sway from every
sort OF convenience such as We have
become so accustomed to in our great
American life OF to-day.
Clothing for Campers.
The sun., 1919-07-13

often seen. but on the city streets the
small and close fitting hats. preferably
of the turban shape, are the most de-
sired.
The need for protection from tho
sun lie met In the parasol. which is
now made Of material in lovely colors
withstanding both rain and sun. The
turban hats are not by any means
new-they came In two seasons ago
and have never left. The rich ma
terials Of gold and silver brocade
dreaded through with brilliant colors
all blended into wonderful color
schemes are beautiful to see and be-
coming TO wear.
The sun., 1919-07-13
GinEhams and CaIieoss.

While 80 many little siFis--and big
ones too--wiil be camping we must
not forest the charm OF the yeuns
persons summer clothes. dinEhams
snd calicoes abound In her wardrobe
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1919-04-01
ANNUAL MEETING LAST EVENING
T.T aoaRD OF TRADE BUILDING
LARGELY ATTENDED.
PRESIDENT WILSON DELIVERS Az
DRrss REVIEWING WORK OF
THE PAST YEAR.
SECRErARY"S REPORT MOST COM
PLErH AND COMPREHENSIVE OF
ANY YET MADE.

At the annual meeting Of tn" hoaru OF
directors Of the Associated Charities OF
Wheeling las, night TWO interesting
and informing reports were read i'reS
idcnt ". T. Wilson Of the Wheeling body
stated that the prominent feature OF tn'
wear was that despite the abundance OF
work. high wages and the scarcity nt
labor. the cost Of carrying on the work
and the amount Of money expended IN
charity reached 4 higher mark than ever
before. Tho reasons for this are that
in many poor families the CHIEF means
Of support was put into the scsflc". anu.
in spite Of the valuable aid given by the
government to such families that aid
did not keep up with thc increase IN
cost OF supplies. The Influenza epidemic
also deprived many. through sickness or
death of financial assistance. Not only
that, but the cost Of nursing the intlu-
cnza patients was Il thing entirely I'M
expected. Another reason. and perhaps
the chief. is that the cost Of charitable"
work increascS9at 4 specils rate in pro-
portion to the increase In the cost Of
living
The reports Of the president and sec
rotary arc very encouraging. Indicating
that the year has been entirely sue
ccssful and that the promises Of tho