davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-03-30
GAUDY BEADS BECOME A MOST STRIKING FAD

pieces. Here too, moire ribbon links
small bands OF precious stones and
the dainty little watches around the
wrist.
As to lace pins. the same craze for
bizarre and unusual things such as Is
evidenced In the necklaces is also seen
In the demand for curious and unusual
pins and brooches. The semi-precious
stones, such as jade, lapis lazuli. aqua
marine, amber and turquoise. lend
themselves to this and much OF the
counting is dull and old looking silver.
This sort OF jewelry is interesting. far
more so. indeed. than the more con-
ventional type. Fresh water pearls
and queerly wrought gold or silver set
tings make striking and unique orna-
ments, which are pleasing to behold.
Along with this craze comes the de-
mand for combs and pins for the hair
Some of these are all fine carved fret
work Of tortoise shell and other shell
tinted gray or black or amber. mounted
with bright sparkling stones Of the
most vivid hue. Brilliant reds and
greens and blues are used, such as we
have not seen In many years. Most
OF the combs are very high, the sort
we associate with Spanish ladies' and
mantillas. To match these high, elab-
orately carved and glittering combs are
small tucker pins. with fiat, broad.
round or square tops. thickly spangled
with the same gay stones. These lit
tie tucker pins have quite taken the
place of the side combs everybody used
20 wear
The sun., 1919-03-30
Cewgaws More Colorul Than Precious and Unlimited
as to Size Now All the Rage

tassels match in color. green, red.
bright lapis lazuli blue and so on.
l have spoken more than once of
the great demand for red. Strings or
huge red celluloid beads as large as
hickory nuts are very much worn.
Some are finished with the fiat. wide
pendants artfully carved. or again
they are left just a string OF beads
and thus hung around the neck.
Tiny perfume balls OF exquisite
enamel, swung on MORE ribbon and
linked with small rhinestones. are
really beautii ul and Justify the de-
mand for them by their prettiness.
The little balls unscrew and ART to be
filled with ones favorite perfume.
The huge lockets OF amber, tortoise
shell and ivory are also very smart
They, too, are mounted on the more
ribbons, though now and then one
finds them affixed TO chains made OF
the same material as the locket One
side of these little cases is fitted with
a mirror and the other Is intended u
hold picture. Is II not strange that
all down the ages women have found
way of preserving the image OF
some loved one in some pleasing way
such as this fad of the memory locket?
Early in the nineteenth century they
The sun., 1919-03-30

Bulloz makes sensational bows that
turn themselves into snake.ike trains,
and other designers seem to believe
that the gown is merely a foundation
for a sash that has grown out Of all
proportion TO its simple name.
Rarely are these bows placed In the
middle OF the back. They often adorn
the left hip, but they are not placed
exactly on 1t. That gorgeous ten dol
lar-a-yard metallic ribbon is fire.
quently used especially on jet gowns,
and again the bow is made OF the
fabric of the frock, especially when It
is OF taffeta. Then 1t has n colored
lining. the more color the better.
1t is considered smart to line tho
bow with silver cloth, and this has a
most agreeable effect when the ma
terial of the gown is OF Jade green taf-
feta, color that has risen this sea
son.
There Is evidence OF a continuance
OF strong colors this spring. Tho
world seems to have had enough OF
them since November. Cathedral win
dow tones have given place to tho
rich light tints of tho end OF tho
eighteenth century. Street clothes arc
in black. navy blue and beige. and
evening gowns are In black, lad ,
green. bright pink, lavender and Milo
green.
The sun., 1919-03-30

delighted to wear memory pins which
were cunn!ngly wrought to show
weeping willow trees made OF hair,
trailing over a little painted monu-
ment Of grief. while one or more small
painted figures sat near. These little
pins were made In ivory and mounted
with gold. The willow trees were of
really. truly human hair, usually of
some dear departed The memory
locket Is a descendant of that antique
and came into being along with the
other horrors OF the war The fact
that those twentieth century lockets
have mirrors in them proves at least
that vanity goes side by side with af-
lection and one can powder ones nose
and look on the adored face opposite
at one and the same time Affection
ately.
Bracelets Arc Gone,
As to bracelets. only tho wrist
watch has survived, though for a time
we wore gold bands, and even bangles,
but the wrist watch grows finer every
day. II Is so cunningly made and eX-
quisltely wrought that every woman
would cheerfully make little sacri-
hcial pile OF all her other Jewels and
treasures for the sake of possessing
one OF these modern beautiful time
The sun., 1919-03-30

dress, expressed by q superfiuity or
fabric anc non essentials that distend-
ed the figure, concealed its naturalness,
and permitted the dressmakers and
ia bric makers to grow rich.
As the people struck at all the arti-
ficiality of royalty and swept away
with a brutal and murderous hand the
vast edifice called social life which had
been built up by the hands of the
great powers. so they swept away the
court costume, It went to the grilloe
tine before the Austrian Queen. In its
place was put the costume that artists
have always considered the loveliest in
the world.
II may be that the reinstatement OF
beauty in dress was not the reason
that governed the women who ruled
Paris when Napoleon was merely
Captain. They might have revealed in
what they knew was indecency; but
they achieved an exquisite movement
in fashion.
What We borrow From Greece.
II is not possible to say that the
French designers were inspired ny the
PtnlnR Slf1lIHTlty pttWeeH ine DlrcC-
toire and the present hour when they
revived the new Directoire costume; It
may he that the position OF Cir zee
Nerself in the war brought to their
minds the beauty of the classic lines
II may be that the double inspiratio
caused them 10 filch fashion features
rom each epoch In order that they
might give the world something that
somehow. has always stood for the
freedom OF mankind ms far as cos
tune can he symbolic of a supreme
political movement
Here are the outstanding features Of
thc Dire ctoire gown that one watches
in the procession OF new Puris clothes
The filct around the head, the
low couture, the bare arms. the
material NJ the bodice narrowing 70
the too Of the shoulder and caught
there with ~ ornament, the gar
lands OF roses that create lines un
gowns and swing free from waist
or shoulder: the slight and graceful
girdlins Of the hipss The uss sf The
The sun., 1919-03-30

appearance as bridge prize, witness
the boudoir cap, then the camisole,
then the gay quill. pen and so on down
20 war stamps with which we soothed
our consciences II We played "endurin
OF de war" The pendants are mar
yellous to see. And curious. too. for
many of them are cop es of quaint old
Egyptian things that one sees on
mummies in museums. For instance,
little ornament about four inches
square Is made of imitation Jade.
carved and carved in the most intri-
cate fash on until the Jade celluloid Is
as delicate as silver wires
They AREN'T Precious.
BY a curious notion. none of these
gay things is real or precious in any
way-they are gay and striking, vivid
and brill ant and really faunt. but
there seems to be little desire for any
thing real or precious.
MORE ribbon and heavy chenille
tassels play quite part in this queer
rad. Links OF jet, long slender beads.
rather. are linked together with mar
row MORE ribbon and finished with
very long chenille tassels This sort
OF necklace is made up In all the gay
colors, as well as In jet, and the chenille
The sun., 1919-03-30
Only Excuse for
a Third Season
Seems to Be the
Beauty of the
New Sable Pieces
~ MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON.

X Tow II seems we divide our furs
into three seasons at least
4 spring, summer and winter.
The newest furs are called spring
furs. They are very new and they
are very lovely. For the most part
this spring. the newest neckpieces are
soft little sto.es and scarfs OF mink.
Hudson Bay sable and fisher. One
animal Ii used for the whole piece to
give q smart effect and clasps the
wearer's neck tight and close. No
furry animal Is ever softer and richer
than the light brown sable. The little
head and paws and tail are left on to
attest the beauty Of the little creature
after the furriers have done their ut
most to him. The small neck pieces
for which the sables are used arc
worn by the greater number Of women
clasped in the back at one side. These
little fur pieces have not been so much
in favor for the last few years as they
their return to favor this spring we
may say they are having a revival. I
tavs seen no fur pieces in years pref
tier or more becoming to almost every
wearer than the new ones made Of
three animals to give length sufficient
to wrap around the throat and leave a
long end on each side Worn with one
Of the new jaunty tricorne hats and
q smart frock this sort OF fur neck
lace II one may SO style II, Is intensely
stylish and becoming. These are not
very wide and as they are not nat
tened out, but are left the natural
size. they make close fitting collars Of
Just the right height for the average
neck.
All women know that furs worn
close about the throat and we'll up to
the chin are more becoming than the
wide and fiat pieces. however long and
luxurious the hair Of the latter may
be.
II must be borne in mind that I am
speaking now Of the spring fur pieces.
for later on we shall doubtless turn
with the same enthusiasm we have
shown the last three years toward our
foxes and lynxes and wide, fiat stoles
The sun., 1919-03-30
BEST WAY TO WASH THE HAIR

We find you can bring out the
beauty of your hair to its very hest
advantage by washing it with can
throx. 1t makes very simple. in
expensive shampoo, which cleanses the
hair and scalp thoroughly of all tn.
dandruff, dirt and excess oil. leaving n
wonderfully clean, wholesome feeling
After its use you will find that the hair
dries, quickly and evenly, is never
streaked in appearance and is always
bright; soft and fluffy; so fluffy, In
fact, that 1t looks more abundant than
it is, and so soft that arranging it be-
comes pleasure Just use teaspoon
any good druggists, dissolve it in a
cup of hot water; this makes n fuIi
cup OF shampoo liquid, enough 40
II is easy to apply it TO all the hair In.
stead OF Just the top OF the hoad.-Ads.
The sun., 1919-03-30

heavy silken cord to hold the full
ness OF the material Into the figure;
the lifting OF the material of the
skirt in front and the timid venture
NJ the round toed fiat heeled slipper
with its ribbon straps around the
lnstep.
Here and there. as the fashions have
twisted and turned throughout the
seasons, an independent designer has
put out Grecian gown and watched
its effect~S-pon the public Cnce, a
few years before the war. Paul Poiret
found 10 his delight that the Queen
OF Spain liked his Grec!an gown so
we'll that she bought 1t. One day, in
her democratic British manner, she
was trying it out in the public gray
salon OF the famous house on the Ave-
7ue d'Antin before a few OF the gem
t,emen ami ladies of her household:
II was quite suitable to her large,
vigorous blond personality. so she Or
dered it, to Poiret's delight, but even
her sponsorship of such a frock did
not create for 1t popularity.
Gnrlands OF Roses.
l MS season II does not neeQ queen
to give a gown prestige; in fact no
one looks her way; but the people
WI adopt the Greciau costume with
out comment or protest II early signs
point To success. There is no indie
ccncy about it to-day as, in the Direc-
toirc, II 10 not cut too low its skirt
is not unlined. There is far more lack
OF good taste in that other French
ashton which calls for a skirt that
ba ly covers the kneecap than in the
- !val OF a costume connected with
the most indecorous period of French
pastimes.
The simplicity Of the Greek style Is
its difficulty. II Is not easy to place
It on a mature figure. II is prsemI-
neHtly fashion for the slim. AGE has
little 10 90 with II
II is not probable, however that tho
gowns suggested by the Greek fashion
VIII be carried out in an extremely
classic mal3r. TIM upns Int Coms
from France are essentially modern
We rarely repeat the costume OF ono
epoch In detail We merely use u a
The sun., 1919-03-30
the back.

preston. Wide galloons of jet take the
place of peltry on new wraps and are
applied to georgette, tulle and taffeta
afternoon gowns.
As navy blue serge is accentuated as
a spring fashion in the new French
gowns, we may expect to see much Of
il here, and there is no hesitancy on
the part OF the dressmakers to treat
il on an equal basis with the finest
weave of taffeta.
Taneta for Handsome Wraps.
It may be that taffeta will become a
commonplace fabric before the sum
mer begins. but at the present hour
II is treated in a respectful manner
and placed high. It Is used for severe
coats and ornamental capes, as well as
for gowns and separate jackets.
There is an especially successful eve
ming coat for mild spring and summer
nights which is built of taupe taffeta,
trimmed with t at new kind Of orna-
mentation which resembles bird feath-
ers. 1t is a combination Of georgette
manner that suggests the Wellington
| top coats worn by men during the
| early part of the nineteenth century.
The skirt OF this new wrap is Of
, taffeta and gathered into fulness that
is quite out of keeping with the ma
! jority OF fashionable garments: e
top OF the wrap is n Victorian cape OF
georgette crepe, heavily embroidered
with gold beads and the garment
could really be worn as a frock II one
indorses the extra short skirt.
Drecoll sends over a successful after
noon coat OF dark blue taffeta, the
skirt OF which is shaped by several
circular founces. There IL n cord and
/ tasscl around the hips, and immense
| sleeves finished with wide cuffs.
All the designers are not SO cir
cumspect in their use of taffeta One
OF them has created quite sumptu-
Gus garment which Is Of Jade green,
half covered with a flounce of silver
lace, and built up over the shoulde RS
with gray fur. This cape, by the way,
/ is rs voluminous as tho DreColl coat
OF tafreta Is attcnuatcd. which is only
another way of showing that there
| is no one dominating silhouette this
| spring.
There is so much TO say about taf-
feta this season that one cannot box
all OF II into one story. There Is no
doubt now that America will accept
/ 1t as a leading fabric. France has
her way in this, at least, She may
! not make US accept the very short
skirt and the baby sleeves in our
street gowns, but we can raise no
/ objection 10 taGfcta on any score.
/ That may be too sweeping state
/ mvnt. There are many women who
still raise objections TO the silk be-
cause of old memories. but the fabric
makers insist that we have too little
/ to fear from the new weave.
! The dresmakers are more anxious
than the public about the recrudescence
of this silk. for they cannot get much
OF the French quality, and the Ameri-
can weave is a bit stiff for the season e
drapery.
1t is difficult to tell what idea, or in
spiratiun, was behind the rcsurrec-
1 lion OF the immense bow at
the hack Of the figure. Tho house
! ~ Premet has stood through
out its career for Japanese ideas,
put all the French houses show an in
clination, here and there, to use the
bow ~ q startling adjunct to the skirt
The sun., 1919-03-30
HOSE first Americans. the In
ans. never loved beads and
- gewgaws more than this pres

I" HOSE FIRST Americans, the In
d ans. never loved beads and
gewgaws more than this pres
ent generation. that Is, II we are to
Judge by the vogue for strings Of
beads Of every sort to hang about our
hecks. There Is nothing modest about
this fad. the bigger the beads and the
moro vivid the color the more fash
ionable they are. And as for the
pendants. they are the size Of watches
IL mean the old fashioned silver
watches of the long. long ago.
Sautoirs OF strings and strings OF
very small beads put together until
the strips placed side by side are
about an inch wide are very new and
very lovely, too These affairs can
easily be made by clever women who
are not too nervous to string the tiny
beads and who understand co.or
the head In a wide loop and finished
with a fringe OF the beads. matching
In color those that predominant in the
color scheme. Steel beads as small as
q pin head are used often in this
fashion and linked together with bits
of black MORE ribbon the width Of
the strips put together on the sautoir.
SO old-fashioned are these orna-
ments both as to the necklace and the
gaudy glinting pendants that the are
being given as prizes at bridge part es.
for people are beginning to have
bridge parties again. Nothing so sure
~ proves a thing all the rage as Its
The sun., 1919-03-30

sometimes is made OF beaten gold or
silver in a simple design.
There is no attempt to wear gloves
with such frocks. This is strong
suggestion from the Directolre period,
whose women took II up from Greece.
Another classic fashion that we will
see on every side this season Is the
usage of garlands of roses. All the de-
sgners have indorsed this form of
orn6mentation since last November
but II has not received in this country
the widespread appreciation that has
been given it in France. Swinging
streamers OF flowers are associated in
the mind OF the public with early
wars and their days of victory. 1t is
as Old as civilization this fashion. and
when we relntroduce It into modern
dress we are going along the path
b aZed by the women of the world be-
fore Pharaoh was King of Egypt.
These garlands are used in various
ways on new froCks. They are
punched at the waist; they swing free
at the armholes; they loop up the full
ness of skirts, and they often drop
! Gown in a swinging end from the hip.
An Array OF Jet Froclks.
There is nothing Grecian about
gowns OF Jet, but they are even
more fashionable than garlands OF
roses. Numbers OF them have been
turned out by the French dressmakers'
There was a hint Of their popularity
before the armistice. but no one eN-
pected them to he so plentiful during
The sun., 1919-03-30
Paris Designers Adopt Artistic Fea-
lures, Not Foolish Ones, of French
Epoch for. Spring Styles

movement OF dress during the ascend
ency Of the French Dlrectoire There
were many others, not as distinctive.
perhaps, and not original with the
French women. but the student oil
clothes remembers them more quickly
han the more pronounced and start
ling features.
II Is quite easy to link up Josephine
and the Directoire and think of all
fashions OF that period arranged after
her many portraits; but Josephine wa.
only a part of the personnel that gov.
erned the Paris of that day She had
nothing In common with that certain
set who inaugurated the most Ou,-
standing Directoire fashion viii w.
he long striped skirt with Its short
Jacket cut off at the waisune in ~. .
and hanging in two tails at the back
She did not wear the high hat, nor
carry n gold-headed cane. She was
actually led to adopt the classic styl
by women moro powerful than she W.
before Napoleon made her an em9rre~
And 1t is this classic style that In
spires the French designers Tor this
season. 1t is mora ancient than
Greece. II was the earliest form of
civilized covering for women.
II may have been designed in those
early days TO cover the female form.
bu, II was adopted by the women OF
the Directolre TO disclose IT, Histori-
cally. II was protest AGAINST Marie
Antoinette and her court It was the
mad. wild cry OF the bourgeois
against royalty 1t was the demo
cratic evidence OF hatred. slcrn and
contempt for the womIn Woo were
supposed to have throttled the people
For oehtpries the court OF France
| kaA $3.50 ths utmost friyoiity In
The sun., 1919-03-30
UMBRELLA COVERS.

Leather umbrella sheaths are the
latest umbrella novelty. They arc. OF
course, far more durable than the us
ual slip cover of silk. and they arc
smart looking to boot. For they are
made to conform closely to the shape
of the umbrella, so that there is no un-
usual bulkiness. Some of them are in
pigskin in the natural color, and some
ere in leather that has been dyed.
The sun., 1919-03-30
SHAMPOO HINTS,

Fine toilet soaps and shampoos are
Gear OF course, but n LIQUID soap can
be made OF 25 cent cake OF cast,',
which would be just as delicate for
washing the face and hair as the fine-t
soap on the market. Shave the SOAP
to powder and then boil this IN 4
pint OF soft water; keep the resulting
Jelly in a wide mouthed bottle, work
ing the Jelly into the skin when using.
but only making a thick suds.
The sun., 1919-03-30
By ANNEkITTENhousE.

r OOKING at the French clothes
fore and aft one has a growing
- conviction that the pirectoire
period rules or pervades the atmos-
piiere Of fashion.
When one speaks of Directoire
clothes the public imagination leaps to
the quick vision Of the short waist. the
trailing skirt. the snug little Jacket
with it's beaver tails; yet those features
of fashion are only parts Of the whole
The sun., 1919-03-30
ING FURS MAKE THEIR BOW WITH SABLE TE1E FAVORllf
and White
Fox Seen No.
where Nowadays;
Seal Is Used in
Distinctive Model

martsn. too, 10 In demand. Though
much larger. II has a lighter color un-
derneath and In softer than these
others.
Now az to the Jackets. coates ana
capes-it resolves itself literally
into the matter Of paying your money
and taking your choice, for these little
fur wraps are enchanting and really
almost indispensable In the first cool
days before spring is really here.
Many Of them have long. tight sleeves
Of the fur and others are nothing moro
than high and deep collars. sometimes
with reyers added OF a CONTRASTING
fur.
white rurs Ont.
We sec no white furs at all: even
ermine, which used to represent q
"lidy" Of the highest degree. is having
a quiet rest. Can Il be because ermine
II so closely associated with royalty
and now royalty is Just about to be
no more7 Anyway. ermine 10 en-
tireiy out Of the running and white
fox, too. has had its day and is quiet
also for a while.
To return to the Jackets and coates
the most sumptuous and lovely
wrap one can see on a spring day In
made with a loose hanging cape-liko
back of the softest, richest Russian
sables. The upper part has the skins
forming a yoke and going across and
around the shoulders rather than
down the back as the other skins
which form the lower part Of tho
wrap do. The front is formed into o
sort Of waistcoat and Is held in by
girdle Of fur-oh. yes. Of course the
fur things Of this sort have waist
coats. too. Indeed. one or two I have
seen are really nothing but little
waistcoats with sleeves added and one
model. at least, is waistcoat IN front
with pointed ends and pockets. fur
buttons and has no sleeves at all. The
back hangs perfectly straight and
loose from the shoulders.
Distinctive Seal Piece.
Seal has not been entirely neglected.
An unusual effect has been achieved
by making q seal cape. stopping just
at the waist in the back and finishing
with long stole ends IN front which
pass around the waist and tie. or
| rather loop. in the back. The upper
part of this smart wrap reveals high
| outstanding collar, which comes we'll
up to the ears.
A new moleskin cape has the usual
cape effect in the hack and q short
| jacket effect In front where II ties
with heavy slken cords and tassels.
The upper part of the front Is built
much like a surplice and buttons just
above the cord at the waistline.
Later on 1t will be interesting to SEQ
further developments, when the sum-
mer fur season is at hand.
The sun., 1919-03-30

letting the fur stole fan thus over each
shoulder and down the front.
Russian sable Is the fur de w.. rich
and exquisite in texture as In color.
Three skins have been put together In
a charming manner which reveals the
coloring underneath as we'll as on top.
Fisher resembles somewhat the pointed
fox. but Is not quite so soft. II is
tipped with a tiny neck along the
airs and thus has q silvery look which
Is attractive.
Fashion Leans to Sable.
Fashion seems to lean heavily. how
over. to the Russian and Hudson Bay
sables and because the Hudson Bay
sable Is smaller than the Russian kind
II seems to be in the lead. Stone