davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-03-16

| ton Is superb. 1t takes all the new
shades with success.
Bullion lace, fantastic, amazing rib
bons. strands of crystals and precious
lnce are used to make it more brilliant.
| The supple weave that is peculiarly
French is combined with wolfe and
serge for one piece froCks.
SO far the importations from Paris
have not exhibited any special stress
upon satin as the favored fabric
There are gowns of it, here and there,
and it is used in combination with
other fabrics, but it remains a trife
obscure. Taffeta in it's new form is all
aggressive fabric
1t has invaded the field OF millinery.
and in brilliant green, it bursts forth
in hats and parasols.
Brilliant SILK Jersey Frocks.
There is no tendency on the part OF
Paris TO diminish the prestige Of silk
jersey. 1t again appears as a fabric
for effective frocks. although the
Americans have used it in common
place way for two years.
Silk Jersey has never been cheap,
strange to say, whereas wool jersey
within the price of an average purse
at all times.
1t Is not featured by France this
spring in a commonplace way, nor is
il intended to be used for careless
sport clothes nor morning country
walks. Doeuillet has made the typical
American gown, which means the kind
that sells over here by the hundred,
rot the dozen, Of navy blue silk jersey,
embroidered in victory blue wool
There is a short tight skirt and the
tunic which falls in embroidered points
back and front.
The sash breaks the straight line Of
the tunic, and it is evident that we
must pay especial attention TO big
sashes. The string girdles of the last
four years are suddenly grown to ro-
bust proportion.
The sash as the fashion feature
shares honor with the straw braid,
The designers have gone back far into
history to get this suggestion for a
novel kind OF ornamentation.
Before Cromwell it was considered
quito a new and brilliant fashion to
trim ones clothes with colored straw,
WnlCn proves llldL Hulildll HhNui' nus
always delighted in raising the COM
monplace to the pinnacle of fashion
| every once in n while, although the
public usually remembers the act only
| in connection with Marie Antoinette
and her dairy clothes.
| The dark blue serge frocks which
| have come from Paris are trimmed
with cherry red straw as an example
OF our modern usage of it.
A cape of serge is faced with If. The
cape goes with Il gown that has nc
| trimming whatever but straw belt,
| V-shaped collar of straw and tiny
vest of cherry chiffon which Is finished
at its top edge with a bowknot of the
gay straw strands.
Capos are to he so entirely fashion,
able that the dressmakers had to think
up something to make them unusual,
and they seemed to play up to colored
straw in connection with them as a
The sun., 1919-03-16
! NE of the most delightful novel;
ties that has broken loose in
Paris life Is the sightseeing

~ NE of the most delightful novel;
ties that has broken loose in
Paris life is the sightseeing
convalescence OF American soldiers,
who are permitted TO go about in their
pajamas. These men have heavy bath
robes over them, and they fill the in
teresting and historic spots of Paris
from the Louvre to Montmartre, from
Napoleon's Tomb to St. German. Their
hospitals send them out in patches,
with nurses and volunteer guides.
Tho men are not able to put on their
clothes, and many are still on crutches,
with their feet bandaged or their arms
in sings.
At first Paris was amazed and sur
prised into a swirl of talk and counsel,
but when she found that it was an ex-
IRENE novelty she responded to the
innovation with the enthusiasm that
is French.
1t is said that streams OF little Paris
children, nurses and young girls trail
behind this caravan of pajama clad
men. Every one volunteers to tell a
bit of history, and the episodes have
become joyful parties. OF course
France must have a name for every
thing, so she instantly dubbed these
costumes the Robes of Recuperation"
and started the wheels, of fashion by
The sun., 1919-03-16

w THEN the war interrupted the
w flow of fashions from Paris
America was in despair.
The sun., 1919-03-16
Extreme Fashion Once Rejected by
America-Dressmakers Eager to See
Result of Struggle This Spring

with the small salaries paid them be-
fore the war. This Is only human ma
ture and no one should criticize Il.
Hundreds of workers who were con-
tent to receive about a dollar a day
for work in the big dressmaking
houses in France are In search OF
other kinds of work which will meet
with their ambition. They have lived
well for four years. or at least they
have had the money to do It, and It
has aroused their belief In themselves
1t is not possible for France to pay
such salaries again. but II has created
discomfort throughout all industrial
channels, and especially among the
Paris girls.
But under these difficulties Paris
worked we'll in fashioning clothes for
the world. The American buyers went
in force and bought literally. Tho
The sun., 1919-03-16

Off to the knees. We are told that the
actually conservative women of Paris
go about with their silk clad legs ex-
posed from ankle nearly TO knee, and
that their capes and top coats of furs
have been cut the same length as their
skirts, and this in day when taxis are
not to be procured and private auto
mobiles have not been reinstated.
There is no going back of the i'm
portance of the struggle that Ia already
started in the area of fashions be-
tween the two dominating countries
concerning the length of the skirt. We
will all watch II with interest. II has
been found that the women who pay
very little for their clothes and buy
new ones often are the ones to take up
the very short skirt.
The Very Tight skirt.
Not only are the skirts shorter than
they We're last fall in Paris, but they
are very tight, draped up in front in
the Oriental manner sometimes form
ing a puff below the waist which is
often banded in with jeweled GALLONS
or sashes OF the material.
"HutoNel lney may Dc IN tne 'front.'
however, they are tight in the back.
There is no tendency toward uplifting
in the back after the American fashion
Of last summer. The whole movement
is not only Oriental, but early Oriental.
Tho contour is that OF Alexandria in its
glory, OF the Byzantine era.
There are other skirts that are as
tight and straight as towel would
be pinned about the figure.
There are tunics on tho new skirts
hut they are just across the front,
leaving the back width plain and tight
The sun., 1919-03-16

There is so much gorgeousness at
night it is hard to believe it isn't fairy
land.
There is every color but somehow
in the ballroom with no two gowns
alike there is no clashing note. Every
thing is color and brilliancy and rtoh-
ness but there is softness too. can't
tell you what a wonderful thing 1t II.
The sun., 1919-03-16
7 e are at the turn Of the tide
in fashion. France did her

w 7 e are at the turn Of the tide
very best this year, and al
though she had the glory of victory in
her heort and freedom from air raids
and bombs, she struggled with other
difficulties which had nothing to do
with courage, but were brought about
through deficiency Of labor.
Paris is by no means normal indus
trially or commercially. With the
best intentions in the world, It is not
possible to get at once the slme
amount and class OF labor that could
be had before the war.
There Is unrest there as here. Those
who have received abnormal salaries
as war workers are not quite content
The sun., 1919-03-16

All the sleeves IN the Paris gowns
are short. No. not all. There are some
long sleeves which reach half way be-
tween elbow and wrist and others that
have the medieval length and are
stretched out over the hand.
Just what the American public is
going TO do about the usage OF short
sleeves in street gowns, no dressmaker
speaks with authority. Gloves are as
scarce and excessively expensive. 1t is
not according to the American custom
to go in the open with the arms I'M
covered during the day. although we
have adopted the French fashion OF not
wearing gloves in the evening. To ask
women to provide themselves with
quantities Of long gloves in order that
they may have the arms covered from
morning until night is putting a bur-
den upon their purses that might be
the straw on the camels back.
1t is good guess that the bulk OF
the American public will simply refuse
the short sleeves as 1t refused the short
skirt last October. 1t is true that a
three quarter sleeve requires a large
number OF gloves also, but there is no
reason against the wrist length and
even knuckle length sleeve to which
the American woman is accustomed.
1t would be a sad day indeed II we
were to return to the fashion OF ten
years ago when women in every class
Of life thronged the streets with their
shirtwaist cut of above the elbow, and
their bare arms and hands protruding.
1t not only looked disorderly; it was
certainly uncleanly.
The sun., 1919-03-16
Paris Reinstates Serge,

The world thought that fashion had
Intended to keep dark blue serge on
the shelf. 1t put It there last autumn,
and gave no evidence that it would
come back into its own. Jersey. silk
and wool took its place for the average
gown, and a material called gabardine
was used when a light weight cloth
suit was needed.
The public had accustomed itself 10
the thought that dark blue serge was
to be withdrawn from the arena OF
fashions, and had turned its attention
in other directions, when here comes
Paris with quantities Of blue serge
gowns made in simple and fantastic
ways.
The majority will be glad. Dress
makers are also happy whenever this
fabric is reinstated, for II is simple to
get and there is little criticism against
II.
They have had a serious time with
the various weaves exploited by the
manufacturers in the last two winters;
velours, duvetyn, imitation fur, cara
cul cloth were agreeable to sight, but
they did not always give the service
that their price warranted. Women
were unhappy over frocks that looked
as though they were ready for the rag
bag before they had given six weeks
service.
Nelveteen was probably the chief Of
fender OF the winter, and women who
paid huge prices for gowns OF it found
that its surface rubbed of in a month
OF usage. and that it was spotted like
n leopard where its nap had rubbed
away.
The dressmakers know what serge
will not bring out any OF the protests
that have been hurled against tho win
ter fabrics, and therefore they are
happy to put their ingenuity into the
nraping and adornment Of the fabric
without perplexing their brains as TO
its quality.
Every one knew that taffeta would
be accumulated as n fashion for the
spring. We have had remarkably
lovely gowns OF it since December
France sends over n variety Of cos
tunes in this special kind of silk which
serve from 10 o'clock in the morning
until IL at night. In dark colors 1t
makes a morning street frocli; in fig
ured weave 1t serves for the afternoon
and In pastel shades it takes its place
for the evening.
II will probably usurp the place of
satin, OF metallic cloths. OF rich culored
velvet for evening apparel. It's colora-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
MABEL GARRISON AS LUCIA.
Young American soprano Picnses
In Exacting Role I'm Opcrn.

"L'Eiisir d'Amore," with Nine. Hem
pei. Mr. Caruso and Mr.. Scott as the
principals. was sung before great au-
dience at the Metropolitan Opera House
Yesterday afternoon. In the evening
when Lucia di LammermooT vas
given the auditorium was packed and
hundreds were turned away. The per
Torrance acquired special interest from
the appearance OF Mabel Garrison as
Lucia. The young American soprano,
who had not before undertaken so ex-
acting IL role. had genuine success
with the audience and sine thoroughly
deserved 1t.
Miss Garrison's beautiful singing In
the Mozart one act operas and recently
in lie Coz d'Or.' commanded high
praise. and she has also won an enVia-
tle position on the concert stage Her
voice is one of light character and mod
crate power. but its fmpd quality and
the admirable smoothness OF her deliv-
cry Of her tones are constant delight.
She was very nervous at the outset
last evening, but soon recovered her
eonposurc. After that her singing was
marked by LIQUID fow of tone, elasticity
of nuance, elegance Of phrasing and
skill OF IL very high order in the florid
passages Musical quality and good
taste Informed her art, and v1thal there
was the essential note OF tenderness
which made her L1tCI winning. The
technical excellence and finish of NJ IS
Garrisons singing We're of the highest
order, and in the mad scene abe aroused
great enthusiasm.
Mr.. Martinelli as Ed0ardo and Mr.. de
LuCa as EnITco were the other princi-
pals Mr.. papi conducted
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26

In the Church of the Heavenly Rest
yesterday afternoon Miss Ruth Van
Wyck Rhein, daughter of Or. and Mrs.
NJ. l.. Rhein OF IS East Slxty-first street,
was married to Lieutenant Commander
Edmund Selden Randolph Brandt L. $.
~. son of Mr., and Mrs Randolph Brandt
of Montclair. y. J. The Rev. Or James
sisted by the Rev. E r. Matthews, per-
formed the marriage ceremony
The bride wore a gown Of ivory satin
embroidered with seed pearls and old
lace and n tulie veil The bridal at
tendanis were Mrs. John Strong Abbott
sister OF the bride Mrs John Wilkes
Rankin and Miss Dorotis* Taylor They
wore costumes of pale blue georgette
crepe finished with girdIes OF peach col
ored satin. and large hats OF blue tule
TO correspond. Randolph Brandt,
brother OF the bridegroom. was best
man. The ushers were Lieutenant Com
manders clifford E Van Hook. John
Wilkes Rankin, J. c. Cunningham, C. Err
nest Gunther. D. ]. Fridell and G. W.
Hewlett and Lieut. r c. Webb and T. NJ
Chornhill. l.. s. y. A reception fol-
lowed at the Hotel Gotham
Among those at the church and the
reception were Nice-Admiral Albert
Gleaves L. s. y. and Mrs. Gieavcs.
Rear Admiral and Mrs. Warren Bayley.
Capt and Mrs. Watt Tyler Crcverius
Mrs. William Sims, Capt. and Mrs Regi-
maid Belkn'N. Lieutenant Commander
Paul Cassard, L. S. N: Lieut. Clinton F.,
Braine. Jr., L. s. ". Mrs. Charles Coul-
ter. Mr.. and Mrs. Herbert NJ. Harri-
man. Mr.. ard Mrs. Charles l., Tiffany
Mr.. and Mrs Oliver G. Jennings, Mr.
and Mrs. George Peabody Eustis, Mrs
Charles A. Chiids, Mrs William Cary
Sheldon. Mrs. John Livingston Sardy
Mr.. and Mrs. Albert Van Wyck. Mis-:
Louise Scott, Miss Victorine Lee KEEL
logg. Miss Ella Carpenter. Miss Caroline
Putnam Pemberton Sturges and George
T. Brokaw.
After brief wedding trip Lieutenant
Commander and Mrs Brandt will go tC
Newport. r. l., where he at present /!
detailed at the torpedo station.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26

woodward. the last named Of Boston
AFTER the marriage ceremony a recep-
uon was held at the home of the brides
parents, 81 East Eleventh street
Among the guests were Mr.. and Mrs
=. Ledyard Blair. Miss Marie Louise
Blair. Robert l.. Parsons, Nr. and Mrs
Francis Peabody, Mr.. and Mrs. Walter
+. Bliss. Miss Ruth Bliss, Mrs l.. Stuy-
vesant Chanler. Mr.. and Mrs, Eserlon l.,
Winthrop, Mrs. +. Skiddy Won Stade.
Mrs. ]. Watson Webb Mr.. and Mrs a.
Murray Young, Mr.. and Mrs Percy n.
Pyne, Mrs. Oliver Dwight Filley, Mr..
and Mrs. Hamilton MADDEN. Mr.. and
Mrs Cyrus Field. Mr. and Mrs Charles
Scribner, Mr.. and Mrs. George r. Post.
miss Harriette Post. Mrs Rivington
Pyne, Mrs. John u. Alexandra Mr.. and
Mrs. Richard Van Nest Cambria.
Also Mr. and Mrs. Frederick NJ God
win. Mr.. and Mrs. Arthur Turnbuli. Mr.
and Mrs. Ramsay Turnbull. Mr. and
Mrs. Edward T. H. Talmage. Mr.. and
Mrs. Gordon w. Abbott. Dr. and Mrs
Beverly Robinson. Mr.. and Mrs Joseph
Larooue, Mr.. and Mrs. James Gore King
Miss Eleanor King Mr.. and Mrs. Charles
NJ. Chaplin, Mr.. and Mrs. Francis II
Cabot. r. Ambrose Clark. Mrs James
J. Higginson. mother OF the bridegroom
Mrs. Ralph Pulitzer. Mrs. william Ap
pleton, Mr.. and Mrs. Barrett Wendell
Mr.. and Mrs. Arthur ID. Weekes. Jr.
and Mr.. and Mrs. Chalmers Wood. Jr.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
NOTES OF THE SOCIAL WORLD

Mrs. Harry Kearsage Knapp. - East
Thirty-fifth street. gave reception last
evening at her house for the members
OF the Schola Cantorurn who took part
IN tho first concert Of that organization
last week In Carnegie Hall. There was
a varied programme OF music, followed
BY dancing. The guests included In
addition TO members OF the chorus the
directors OF the Schola Cantorum and
thirty others prominent In the social and
musical lie of this city.
Two causeries in French Will be gwen
on Tuesdays. January 2S and Febru-
airy 4, by Mime. Afanasieff 81 Russia at
the home OF Mrs. william T Darlington.
430 Park avenue. Nine Afanasieff, who
recently arrived here from Russia. is
the wife Of distinguished nava! officer
OF that country. Among the patronesses
arc Mrs, Henry Reese IIoyt, Mrs. stan
Icy Mccormick. Miss Helen Frick, Mrs.
Alfred Seton Mrs. Linzee Blagden and
Mrs. Darlington.
Mr. and Mrs. James Terry White OF
41e West 122d street will give a recep-
tion on Tuesday to celebrate their golden
Wedding Mr.. and Mrs. George u. Robin
son OF Bronxville. y. Y, will give
similar entertainment also on Tuesday
at the Hotel Gramatan.
N-. and Mrs. Wrigh. Barclay. 16.
West Fifty-fourth. will give a reception
| this afternoon.
Mr.. and Mrs Henry J. Whitehouse o.
Mount Kisco will be for the remainder
of the winter at 1913 Park avenue.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
NOVEL STAINED GLASS.
stoddard Memorial Windor
shown nv Tiffany studios.

One of the most ambitious stained
glass windows yet made ~ the TIFFANY
Studios Is now on view in the gallery
in West Twenty-third street and rs at
tracing much interest among craftsmen
and laymen alike. IL Is the John W.
Stoddard memorial window. given by
Mrs Stoddard to the First Presbyterian
Church of Dayton. Ohio
In the design a frank departure has
been made from the type of windows that
have been in vogue In America during
recent years and Mr.. Wilson. the de-
signer, has harked back for inspiration
TO tho most famous stained glass win
lows In the history of the art. those of
the thirteenth century Workmanship that
are 1T Ill TO be found in the old churches
OF France
The window IS in three separated tall
and narrow panels, the spaces being dt-
vided into small geometric forms by
leads that have an antique heaNiness
The subject is "'Te Deum 1audamus." the
uppermost medallion OF the central pane
containing q figure of Christ enthroned
upon rainbow. and the four lowe,
medallions representing the Heaven:
and all the powers therein"
| In tho side panels twelve shields con
| tain emblems Of tho glorious company
Of the Apostles" and the space between
! the shields Is locked into one composition
| by q conventional design OF the true
vine" The window is composed through
out OF thousands of small pieces OF col
ored glass in the mediTval fashion, thu
painted glass being reduced to the mini
mum.
The colors are brilliant as jewels. ant
the lavish and clever use OF cobalt, dis
tributed in small bits over all the win
DOW. gives a predominating overtone o
purple to the design. In Dayton tn
window will receive n western light
whore 1t ought to produce gorgeous har
monies.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
DINNER FOR MINISTER ROUSSoS
Greek Envoy to he Entertained
Here Before Departure.

Georges Roussos. Greek Minister at
Washington for the last eighteen months.
has been summoned TO Paris by Premier
Venizelos to remain during the Peace
Conference. He will then return to
Athens. where he will devote himself to
fostering closer political and economic
relations between his country and the
United States
\ farewell dinner is to be given in his
honor al SherTy's next Wednesday eve
ming, not on Monday. as announced
through an error. The committee in
charge of the affair is made up OF Or.
Nicholas Murray Butler. Chauncey NJ
Depcw. Thomas w. Lamont. A. Barton
Hepburn. Frank A. Munscy. William Eel
loves Morgan. Alfred II. Mariug. Eu-
genius IT. Outerhrdgc. Judge Henry 4
| Glide rsleevc, Charles Il. Miller, Emerson
Mcmillan. f.. Cunife- owen H. 4. G
Smith and George 7. Wilson
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
ANTIQUES NOW ARRIVING.
Rare Furniture From Europe on
View.

a William and Mary" highboy in
fine lines and ornamented with pleasant
floral motives In mapuetry has recently
come across the seas. 1t is one OF the
principal items In an exhibition in the
Lans Curiosity Shop With II are two
companion commodes of fine workman
ship by Sheraton.
Another remarkable piece in the collec-
ton is an eighteenth century socrc;a-y'
and bookcase OF English lacquer. The
desk IS oruamented with mirrors, and
there are any number OF ingenious con-
trivances both in the way Of use and
decoration. A Queen Anne" mirror also
Is notable. with a spirited decoration in
the b < panel above the mirror OF d sea
scape.
Among other features OF the dspla y
are fine early American secretary. with
many secret drawers, some sixteenth
century embroidery panels, rare figur,
tapestries and William and Mary
sideboarl.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-26
Maggie Teyte Has Gala Farewell.

1t was Maggie Teyte q gala night and
hur farewell appearance in America last
night at the Park Theatre, when she
sang the title role Of Madame Butter
fy" with the Society OF American
Singers. Orvtle Harold. in the role of
Pihterton, shared in the ovation after
the first act, and also in the cast were
Carl Formes as Sharplcss. Herbert
Waterous a. tho Bon7c. Viola Robertson
as Su:uki and the same cast heard with
Miss Teyte earlier In the season. Richard
Hagemen OF the Metropolitan conduct
Ing. Maggie Teyte sails this week for
London to create tho pr.ma donna role
in Messengers new opera Monsieur
Bcaucaire," to have its London premiere
in February.