Evening star., 1919-12-28

that fare at the hips. One cannot
hope for this in so broadcast a fash
ion. There is beauty of a kind, how
ever, In such gowns, and If they are
made with the tight bodice and an
absence of drapery over the arms
they have certain reminiscent grace
of the eighteenth century.
AS opposed to them there are the
evening gowns that are strongly me-
dieval, or, rather. oriental. One saw
many of these in fascinating fabrics
orn by young women at the large
parties given in New York the night
of the Army and Navy game. All the
world seemed to be in that city for
That event. and every one who was
there turned out for the gayeties
at night. Not since the last Army
and Navy game was there such brill
liancy, such crowding of restaurants
and theaters, such splendid cos
tumery.
Women of position and power chose
that night to give debutante dances,
and vast numbers of young people,
also old ones, went from ball to ball,
theater to dance. Therefore, the
clothes were significant. They We're
the best New York and its guests
had TO wear And among the clothes
the tulle frocks with panniers found
strong rivals in the slim, straight
oriental gowns gorgeously girdled at
the hips.
X
1t would be difficult TO introduce q
new type Of evening frock that did
not include one or the other of these
contours. One is either wide at the
hips or fiat. There is a choice be-
tween these contours, but there Is
nothing as a compromise.
There are new gowns that show
new way Of distending the hips; not
really new. because it was shown in
Paris during August and September;
but it is a variant from the wide
puffs held up by garlands and from
the Jeanne dare pleats that are stiff
fened to give width below the waist.
This experiment in hip distension is
shown in a remarkable frock that
goes to Palm Beach. 1t Is Of water
green taffeta, the overdrapery Of the
skirt arranged in two deep points,
back and front, and the edges finish
ed with wide, full ruffles of green
silk null.
Doucet showed this skirt in pale
lavender taffeta in his collection Of
new gowns last August in Paris. 1t
was startling~looking frock, because
the boyish looking mannequin who wore
it wore neither stockings nor knickerS
beneath it; the underskirt of that frock
was lavender tulle and the trunks be-
meath it were Of lavender jersey as
abbreviated as those worn by prize
fighter.
To get back to the taffeta gown
from Palm Beach-which is far more
demure than the lavender one from
Deauville-its overskirt stands out
far enough from the hips to give the
appearance Of crinoline, and the tight
little bodice Is reminiscent of those
worn by the women of Paris who
went to the guillotine. 1t is slightly
pointed in front, has a square decol-
letage, short sleeves, and Is fastened
with rhinestone buttons down the
front.
1t is a significant frock, for 1t rep.
resents. undoubtedly, fashions that
will come in with the spring. 1t Is
evident that women whose figures
r can stand it will wear tight bodices
, and full skirts-what might be called
flying kite contour.
x X X II
There is something about a hat ol
straw that few women can resist, II
the hat Is only offered at an unsea'
= sonab BILE hour. Evidently there are
those who consider that winter II
over when Christmas is past. II one
judges by the straw hats that have
made their appearance with velvet
. and cloth gowns.
1t would not astonish those wh(
have watched the American woman
a at play to see her substitute gayly.
= colored sunshade for a somber-col
ored umbrella in the first snowstorm
1t may be that she would be indulg
ing in a bit of mental science, think
ing that If she looks like spring sh,
will believe ii Is here.
The straw hats that have mad
c their appearance in the windows a.
well as on the heads of women hav,
5 their rivals in hats OF polished rib
bons The latter appears to be tn