Evening star., 1919-10-12

II.
And it is really important to know
what the American women will do.
During last winter we heard much
of the extraordinary clothes worn by
the French as repetition of their
sartorial behavior after stupendous
wars. The directoire period was re-
peated. This is an old story. Yet it
comes with the force Of a hammer blow
between the eyes to the Americans who
observe these daring costumes for the
first time. 1t Is one thing to read about
them, another to see them. The Dress
makers in Paris did not hesitate at
semi-nudity. They emphasized it. If
the observer felt that the clothes were
an idle dream of the dressmakers, that
feeling was altered when the French
women were seen at Deauville and
Biarritz going the dressmakers a bit
better. During the week of the Grand
prix at Deauville there were clothes
worn by well known women which
have never been attempted since Bar
palace.
Deauville, on the Normandy coast,
where the races are held in August,
proved to be the trying-out field for
the fashions which the Paris Dress
makers have been showing to the
American buyers. and the unlined tulle
gowns and the bodice made from q
loose harness Of jewels was worn.
In that fact lies difference between
the two periods after the great war
that should cause the psychologist to
go to work. In Barras' time the women
were hissed. In Poincaire's time the
women met with amusement.
The prices paid by the French and
other Europeans for the villas at
Deauvflle and the rooms at the smart
hotels wo aid have restored several vii
lagos in the devastated regions of
France. OF course, people have right
to spend the money they own. but 1t
gives the American a shock to see such
gorgeous and brilliant and reckless
prodigality at so serious time in the
life OF France. If one could sum up
the fashions worn at Deauville one
would put 1t that skirts are longer
and practically transparent, which Is
conquetry Of a kind; that evening
composed of pink or brown skin and
harness of jewels. Bare legs are ire
ouent and they are not in the least
shocking or unpleasant to see Every
one knows that the fashion comes
about through co-ordinated protest
against the price Of silk stockings that
last a day. Copper-colored legs IN the
morning with short jersey costumes
and brown suede sandals laced with
copper-colored ribbon are rather ar
tistic.
The Americans never thought they
would approve of bare legs. but there
is feeling of leniency toward them
now that may come from familiarity,
or from the idea that they are suitable
on hot summer days. Unfortunately,
the Paris women have introduced 1t at
dances and supper tables. The new
copper-colored powder. however, that
bronzes the leg, the longer skirts and
the broad copper-colored satin ribbons
that wind around the legs serve TO
lessen any effect of baroness.
X \ X 4
At the house of Jenny the evening
gowns were especially like those fea-
tured at Deauville They caused
sensation among the American women
who had not been in Paris since the
armistice. One evening gown OF satin
had a bodice made from two bibs, one
in front, one in the back. These were
caught together by slim chains under
the arms and over the shoulder. The
bib in the back missed meeting the
skirt band by about Ave inches. and 1t
was entirely framed by the bare back
AS the mannequin moved the bibs of
satin also moved and one could see
flashes Of the golden skin at all the
places where one usually places fabric.
There was another gown which had
no back whatever. square bib in the
front which was held up by harness
of colored crystals. There was lat
tice work of these crystals across the
back as part Of the harness. Another
gown had about four inches of tulle at
the back and about eight inches Of 1t
in front, and the manneQuin wore q
diamond necklace around her body be-
low the shoulder blades. Still another
evening gown had rather high bodice
in front. a mere girdle at the back.
and a harness Of scarlet and black
satin ribbon that came over the shoul-