davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Leather
Leather
Fine Leathers Used in
Making Footwear for
Women Reported
Scarce

Higher prices for women's shoes of
all leather are predicted. According
to the officer of one of the largest of
the leather companies in the United
States. there is at the present time a
serious shortage of fancy upper leather
used in making footwear for women,
and shoe manufacturers are bidding
actively for all supplies in sight.
The shortage of this kind of leather
is attributed largely to the fact that
nearly all the manufacturers in this
country, as we'll as in other parts of
the world, concentrated their efforts
during the war almost entirely upon
the production of heavy upper leather,
for which there was an unprecedented
demand because of the enormous re
quirements of the Allied armies for
shoes. A surplus of the heavy kind
and shortage of the fine, fancy
leather used mostly in making women
shoes have become apparent since the
signing of the armistice.
Prices of women's shoes will tend
upward, according to trade authorities
until the supply of fancy upper leather
becomes larger. On the other hand
it is said that prices of mems shoes
may move in the other direction, tenn
porarily at least, because Of the sur
plus of heavy upper leather Much of
this leather left on hand with the fall
ing off of the wa demand can be
worked up. it is stated, in the manu-
jacture of mems shoes for civilian
wear
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Jewelry
Shortage Of Diamonds as
the Demand for Stones
Expands to Record
PrOpOrfiOns

Dealers report that t'ere are rot
enough new diamonds in the world to
supply the unprecedented increased
demand from nearly all countries in
the last few months. The shortage is
due to the four and half years Of
war, during which mininr operations
we're completely suspended for period
Of year and half, while resumption
of mining operations was undertaken
on a gretaly reduced scale. The dia-
mond dealers in the United States have
in the mean time been receiving their
stocks from the accumulated surplus
that had been mined prior to the war.
Another feature of the world tlia-
mond market is that the competi titive
situation which formerly existed has
completely disappeared, because of
Germany's loss of her African posses
slons, the output of which was large
enough to be q factor in the market
These former German possessions are
now held, temporarily at least. by the
British, and no matter what final dis
position is made of them, it is certain
Germans. With this competition elm
mated, it is pointed out by leading
American diamond dealers. 95 per cent
of the worlds production of the
precious stones will be under one con-
troll, the De Beers Company, of Lon
don, and its selling agents, commonly
known as the Diamond Syndicate.
Besides this, diamonds have in
creased 33 per cent in value within the
last twelve months. The additional ad-
vances that have been made by the
syndicate will raise the retail price
another 1S per cent
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Large Sales Of Merchandise
In Prospect. Despite Caution
Volume of Business for Year Will Not Be Affected
by Tendency of Buye to Restrict Orders to
Nearby Needs, South ern Merchant Asserts
the coming Of peace had on the supply


the coming of peace had on the supply
of merchandise.
"It has released much material that
the government otherwise would have
needed" was the reply. "The War De-
partmcnt, however, promises to dis
pose of the surplus in such manner
that it will not depress trade. How
ever, the mere existence of the sur
plus seems bound to react On the price
situation.
"The new conditions have forced
out of existence the merchandise
wildcatters' who came into being as
a result of the rising market OF war
time. While prices were mounting
seemingly without limit, get-rich quick
persons who know nothing of the dry
goods business bought large quaint
ties Of merchandise and held them for
the rise, causing buyers i'll many in
stances to come to them and pay
their conscienceless prices because of
sources They passed out of exist
ence almost overnight, just as they
sprang up--mushrooms of the mer-
camille world"
"Will any of the conservation meth
DDS of war time which restricted the
number of styles and the quantity
of goods survive ?" was the next in
quiry.
"Styles may now be expected to take
a middle course. There will be ten
dency on the part of manufacturers TO
break away as fast as possible from the
inhibitions that were imposed upon
them, but as conditions stabilize
expect people who have learned the
lessons of the war to prefer sedate
attire. Extreme wastefulness and ex-
travagance in clothes are likely even
in peace times to be discouraged by
public opinion"
Not Independent Yet
make a declaration of independence in
respect to styles?" was asked.
Hardly yet" Mr.. Sanger rejoined
"Women still have q preference fol
gowns and hats from Paris and as long
as the demand persists the supply may
be expected to keep pace with it. The
stamp of approval of Partisan modistes
still gives prestige even to American
creations, which are shipped abroad for
the artistic O. X. But we are forging
ahead in developing styles made ir
America. We have competent design
ers in this country, and ought eventu-
ally to work out a system of styles OF
our own which will predominant in this
country"
Sanger Bros, established sixty years
ago in a one-room log cabin in Dallas
Tex, now has retail stores in Dallas
Waco and Fort Worth, in addition tc
manufacturing plants and jobbine
business, which centre at Dallas The
firm buys more than S1,000,000 of mer-
chandise a month in this market, anC
does an annual business of about $40
100000. It's most rapid growth has
been during the last eight wears
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Chemicals
Expected German Potasl.
Import Check Buying
Of FertiLiSer By
Farmers

JertlllZer manufacturers are not op-
tlmlstlc over the outlook for the sale of
their product. They have accumulated
large stocks of potash and ammonia
materials at high prices, but the farm
ers are reported to be delaying their
purchases of fertilizer because of the
impression which prevails in many
quarters that German potash in large
quantities will be imported into this
country in the spring.
Authentic reports from Europe are
that the Alsatian mines will hardly suf
flee to cover the requirements of France
for the revitalizing of it's devastated
areas. From Basle, Switzerland, which
is only fifteen miles from the Alsatisn
potash deposits, comes the information
that the total production of the Alsa-
tan mines amounts to only 6 per cent
of the total German production, and
these mines have not been producing
potash salts of test higher than 20
per cent. Furthermore, it is stated,
they are said to be without the neces-
sary equipment for concentration to
produce muriate and sulphate of pot
ash, which test so per cent and go per
cent. respectively. and which the United
States was accustomed to import prior
to the war.
Well informed chemical men are Of
the opinion that with normal conditions
reestablished, and especially if there is
a reduction of freight rates in this
country, the American farmer may
again use German potash. which, it IS
pointed out, can be delivered at the
American seaboard and close to the
American markets at lower cost than
the domestic product from Nebraska
and California can be put into the
hands of the consumer From the Ne,
braska works TO the Atlantic seabosrd
the freight rate is about SIS ton,
which, it is claimed. makes IL almost
impossible for the domestic producers
to compete with German potash I'M
ports.
The fertilizer manufacturers do not
expect any foreign shipments of potash
before next fall at the earliest.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Few Business Failures
January Insolvencies Show
Heavy Decrease

SO far statistics fail to reveal that
business readjustment due to the
ending of the war and falling markets
have resulted in widespread financial
disaster. Insolvency returns for
January, 1919, compiled by R. G. Dun
d Co. show fewer failures than in
December, and the actual number. 673,
with liabilities of S10.736,39e, is less
than for any other January on record.
Only in January of 1905, 1900. 1899 and
1898 was the indebtedness less than
that of the present month
Last year the January compilation
showed 1,179 failures. with liabilities
of $19,278,787. Failures this year
were 43 per cent less and the amount
involved more than "a per cent less
than for January of last year The
figures last month are rs per cent less
in failures and 78 per cent less in
liabilities involved, compared with the
peak Of January, 1915.
During January, 1919. there were
1870 failures in manufacturing lines
with liabilities at S5,125,067, and 43s
failures among traders, with liabilities
of S4,34O,455. and So failures in the
class embracing agents, brokers and
other concerns not listed in the two
leading classifications
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
English Shoemakers
And Buyers Cautious
shortage of Finer Leathers
Threatens Loss of Inn
port Trade

The British prohibition against the
importation of raw hides of all de-
serlptlons and weights was removed
February I. Dealings now, according
to consular advices, are to be freely
authorized
English boot and shoe makers are
reported to be adhering to policy of
caution lest they go wrong in their
Judgment of what the future holds in
store for them. Buyers are equally
hesltant, but according to the North
ampton correspondent of Common
Sense" of London, this inclination on
both sides has not so far been preju-
dicial to the wholesale English shoe
manufacturers, largely because the
bulk of their productive capacity is
still absorbed in making footwear for
the army and navy and wartime civil
ian boots and shoes. Most firms are
reported to have "a large reserve of
orders on their books
Leather certificates recently issued
by the British Raw Materials Depart
ment were for increased quantities
but few manufacturers, it is reported
permitted. Makers of higher grade
boots and shoes are finding it difficult
to secure some of the finer feathers
such as glace kids and pure chrome
box and willow calf, because the home
production falls short of the demand
and there are no imports of conse-
auence
This lack leads the correspondent
of Common Sense" to the conclusion
that "unless production can be speeded
up or substantial imports permitted
the higher grade boot manufacturers
will be unable to make progress. They
will, in fact, have to mark time, and
valuable export business will be
marching away"
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
The Tribune's Page Of B
Production Not Cut
By Labor Troubles
Strikes Came When Mills Were
Inactive-Built Up
Surpluses

"It is fortunate for the woollen mills
of the country that the present labor
disturbance hit us when it did," said
prominent mill agent yesterday. "Not
more than 80 per cent of the woollen
looms of the country were working
when the labor trouble started, and if
the situation is cleared up in the near
future it will have but little eject
upon actual production, which is away
below normal at best"
In the garment making industries
the labor troubles, such as the recently
settled strike in the mems clothing
end and the present strike in the dress
and waist manufacturing trade, have
not yet affected production. Manu-
facturers in these lines have lived
through previous strikes, and at the
gin working on forward production so
that they will have an available supply
of garments already made up to tide
them over this period of inactivity. Not
all manufacturers pursue this policy, of
course, but many of them do, and the
surplus stocks produced before the
strike is usually sufficient to take care
of any business booked during the sea-
son of labor trouble.
The waist manufacturing industry is
in better shape so far as production
during the strike is concerned than the
dressmakers are, as many of the larg-
est producers Of women's waists have
their factories in small towns outside
of New York, which the strike has not
yet reached
The greatest effect in the mems
clothing workers strike is the add-
tional labor cost which resulted from
an eighth per cent increase in wages,
but even that will not affect prices, say
some of the leading mems clothing
manufacturers, as the labor cost, even
in extreme cases where hand tailoring
is used extensively, forms only 40 per
cent of the total cost of production, it
is said. If this is true the total ad-
vance of the cost of production due to
increased wages amounts to slightly
more than 8 per cent.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Resume Mesopotamia Trade
Business With Parts Under AL
lied Control Allowed

WASHINGTON, Feb. 4.~~Commerce
with those parts of Mcsopotamia un-
Ger Allied military control has been
resumed and communication reopened,
the War Trade Board announced to-
day in statement authorizing trading
VITA that country subject to the reg
ulations of the board.
Applications will now be considered
for export and import licenses for all
commodities without supplemental in
formation being required except for
manufactured gold which must be ac-
companied by special form.
Specific information as to the boun-
daries of the territory involved will be
announced by the board on receipt Of
tins information from the Allied mil
itary authorities at Paris.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Rubber
Heavy Buying Of RaU
Rubber by Makers OF
Products Sends the
Price Up

Genuinely heavy buying on the part
Of the makers of rubber products is
reflected in the sharp rise of prices OF
crude rubber. Quotations have mount
ed on an average of seven cents a
pound In the last ten days. AS re-
suit Of the unexpected direction of the
changes in prices many concerns
which were inclined TO be heaitant, it
10 said, are now buying heavily for
February. March and April deliveries.
From tho size of the purchases of
raw materials which the trade is now
making observers believe that the fac
tory heads are looking forward to
months Of humming activity. Although
tho dominant influence in the crude
rubber market has been actual buying
on the part Of domestic mills, II is un-
derstood that foreign buying has also
been fairly active.
1t is notable that the upward price
trend has affected the near-month do
liveries only, indicating that legiti-
mate trade buying, rather than specu-
lative activity. is the cause The plac-
ing of many orders involving large
shipments was reported yesterday.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Report British Government
Will Reduce Wool Price

Considerable interest was aroused in
the woollen goods market yesterday by
a report that the British government
soon would reduce its civil issue wool
prices another 5 per cent. The British
government is releasing raw wool
through the medium of direct sales at
fixed prices in counter distinction to
the American governments method Of
selling its wool holdings through auc-
tons, with predetermined minimum
price, which if not reached in the bid
ding automatically withdraws the offer
ing from the auction. The recent raw
wool auctions in this country have ap-
proximated the British civil list in
price.
One trade leader vcntured the opin-
ion that any reduction in the British
civil issue price would not affect prices
at the government auctions here. "In
my opinion. raw wool has reached the
lowest price at which it viii 90 into
the civilian channels for some time, ~
he said,
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
80
gslSss
Colors
Dyensakers Want Joint
Ownership of Enemy
Patents TO AUerf
Monopoly

Representatives of the dye mann.
featuring industry met at India House
Yesterday and took the first stem
toward bringing to the attention of
the Alien Property Custodian the de-.
sire of American chemical manufacture
ers that patents for German dyes he
sold to non-profit making pool of
chemical producers, so that no one
concern may secure a monopoly. It is
oontended that joint ownership and
consequent wider distribution of patent
rights will be of greater benefit to the
American people.
The plan Of the chemical manufacture
ers is to make the pool holding COM
rany with the power to license anv
manufacturer of dyes who desires to
make the colors for which the Alien
Property Custodian now holds the pat.
ents and which up to a short time ago
were in the custody of the Federal
Trade Commission. This commission
up to the present time has issued the
licenses under which the manufacture
of dyes patented by the Germans was
permitted in this country.
The unrestricted release of these pa-
tients would DO much toward the soIu.
tion of several of the major problems
that now confront the manufacturers
of dyes. The first of these is the
creation Of fancy shades for woollen
goods. the second production of fast
alazarine dyes, also for the colorjnp
of woollens; while the third is the pro
duction of vat dyes. The latter are
insoluble in water, and therefore their
production necessitates the EMPLOY
ment of a special chemical vat, the
same as indigo dyes used for the col
oring of shirtings and cotton prints.
Several chemical manufacturing con-
Germs have been carrying on researches
in the production of these colors and
have arrived at point where they are
ready to begin the erection of plants
for their production. 1t is not expected
that these dyes will be on the market
in considerable quantities before the
elapse of about six months, as condi-
tions for profitable marketing have not
yet been attained.
Among those who attended the meet
ing yesterday were representatives OF
the General Chemical Company. Du
Pont Chemical Company, Merrimac
Chemical Company, National Aniline
and Chemical Company and Grasselli
Chemical Company. 1t was decided to
appoint a committee to bring the mat
ter to the attention of the Alien Prop
erty Custodian.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05

American retailers can enter the
gateway of genuine prosperity if they
watch their step during the coming
months, according to Isaac S. Sanger,
chief executive in the New York Offices
of Sanger Bros, of Texas, the largest
drygoods concern south of the Mason
and Dixon line
Mr.. Sanger, who is in charge of a
staff of about fifty buyers, in stating to
The Tribune his ideas on the trade
outlook during the crucial months that
lie ahead, based his conclusions chiefly
on conditions in the great Southwest.
The prospects for the drygoods
BUSINESS" he said looking up from his
oesk, which was barricaded with mem
oranda, seen very bright, especially
IN our section of the country. The peo-
| pie OF Texas have lots of money to
spend this year. Cotton was high dur
ing the latter part of the war period
and the farmers saved money. AL
though the price of the staple has been
declining since the arm stce was
signed, the prospects for the coming
crops seem favorable
New Flow of Wealth
And in the last year Texas has un-
covered another important source of
wealth. am referring to the tre-
mendous oil boom, which has made the
state second Klondike, feverish with
the enthusiasm Of prospectors. The
poom has yielded as much in the last
Elk Elk months, | should say, as cotton.
ne masses are participating in the
gains. Then, too, with its diversified
crop system the state will get revenues
from its vegetable crops, fruit and pea
nuts, and money ought to be plentiful.
Despite the possibility of a grad
ual decline in the price level of mer
chandlse and the consequent need of
caution IN buying, the total volume of
Rooos that Will be purchased during
the next twelve months ought to be
just as large as it would be if the
price level were absolutely stable.
The uncertainty of the price trend. it
seems to me, makes wise management
require the restriction of buving for
our retail stores to sixty to ninety
days ahead. Over longer period than
that the future of prices seems hazv
Although buying will be from hand to
mouth, the demand on manufacturers
1or goods over the next year ought to
be large. Retailers will buy cautious
ly. and IN smaller quantities, but they
Will buy much oftener. The shelves
the. case of some commodities thew are
rather bare, but generally the stores
nave only fair supply of goods on
hand, and with the large demand of
goods on the part of consumers that
foresee, buying in this market in the
aggregate ought to be heavy
MI. Sanger was asked what effect
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05

at the end Of this month the move
ment of paper is expected to become
considerably more active. 1t is re-
ported that a few banks are not taking
textile paper so freely largely because
of the present labor troubles in that
trade
A. G. Becker G. Co., well known
Chicago house. opened New York
branch office yesterday at Ill Broad
way, under the management of Charles
r. Dunn. 1t is expected that the house
will offer the notes of some Western
concerns whose names are relatively
new to New York banks.
Ruling paper rates yesterday were
unchanged from the day before. as fol-
lows: Two months, 5@5a per cent;
three months, 5@5h per cont; four
months, 5l@51a per cent; FIVE months,
5@o7s per cent; six months, 5051a
per cent,
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Lively Competition for
Cotton Yarn Order

Trade in cotton yarns, the first prod
uct of raw cotton, is quiet and mill
agents admit that the price situation
is badly unsettled. The mills are ac-
lively competing for business IN q
market that is almost bare of orders.
The anxiety to get business makes for
wide variations in prices quoted by
producers.
Prospects for improvement are not
regarded as bright, now that New Eng
land manufacturers of cotton cloths
are curtailng production, and it IS
stated that unless conditions mend
the Southern mills may operate only
three or four days a week. Seventy
FIVE per cent of the cotton yarns con-
sumed in this country arc made in
Southern mills.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
A Sign OF Buying Power

Cne of the largest American diamond
dealers reports that the sales of his
house during the month of January
last were greater than during any
month for the past five years, ana
greater than the sales of diamonds dur
ing the entire years of 1909 and 1910.
This concern has been established for
many years, and the volume of it's turn
over during that month was greater by
almost half million dollars than dur
ing any other month in the history of
the concern.
New-York tribune., 1919-02-05
Knitted Cloths Lower

Prices of knitted cloths have taken
. slight drop owing TO the fact that
the government released some of this
yarn it was holding at prices below the
peak Of last fall. One of the popular
worstcd yarns used III the making Of
wool jersey cloth has dropped from
S1.75 70 - pound. The normal price
on this particular yarn in pre-
fimes was in che ncighborhood Of as
cents. One Of the cloths in the line
Of the CarbcndaIe Mills, one Of the
jargest producers Of knitted fabrics.
can be bad to-day at $3.50 yard. A
few months ago the same fabric
brought t42E.