The sun., 1919-10-05

IA manetteS during the war with
4 \ their trim naval uniforms and
round black straw hats has caused a
vogue this fall in what is known in
the trade as black silk sailors" The
Price of this millinery novelty, while
fairly high, is not unreasonable when
the source OF production Is studied.
Investigation SHOWS that in this
country to-day there are fewer than
two hundred men and women schooled
in the production of the best type
of silk hat suitable for women's
wear. For years the trade languished
with the passing Of mems "toppers,"
being mainly sustained by the limited
demand for women's riding hats. The
use of the automobile further re-
stricted that demand, and thus no
young persons took UP the art OF max
ing a silk hat.
The result is that the few existing
silk hat makers are far above middle
age. Frederick Astrom. a manufac-
turer of the city, recently told SUN
reporter that to his knowledge the
Oldest hat maker has passed his nine
tieth birthday, though still busy, and
that the youngest he knew was more
than forty-five.
AS would be expected In such an
ancient and almost obsolete calling
the tools used are almost as antique as
those who use them. Benches at
which silk hat makers work are made
of mahogany. worn to a wonderful
smoothness and brilliancy by reason
OF their age. The curious wooden
forms on which the silk hats are
shaped are equally glistening. The
particular tools used In the shaping
likewise are as comfortable to the
users hand as Is an old shoe to the
foot, and, like an old shoe, almost as
disreputable in appearance. though
efficient.
The real silk hat is a built UP thing.
LINEN Of gossamer fineness is cut to
the approximate shape ana dipped in a
solution of purest shellac. One after
another of these sticky layers Is
made. Then they are moulded around
the ancient wooden form and pressed
with an iron so hot that the several
layers are welded together into one
stiff waterproof shape. Incidentally
It may be remarked that these silk
hat makers who WELD these heavy
irons on the shellac layers all have
extraordinarily strong arms. because
their years of swinging heavy irons
around and around have extended the
muscles far beyond normal.
The glistening silk covers for the
hats are sewn together with incrcd-
ibie speed by few expert women
who use a stitch different from any
used I'm anV other trade These
'cover sewers" as they are called.
demand and obtain unusual wages.
Their services just now are so highly
priced that their earnings probably
are the highest of any women work.
ers in the city.
Like many other industries OF its
kind, its centre is old time New York
In Crosby street. corner of Grand, Is
silk hat mandatory which has
been in existence for more than nifty
years as such and which is known
the country over.
The silk hat makers, while not ex-
actly unionized, have q close associa-
ton of their own, with death and
sickness benefits. AS IL the case with
all highly skilled workers, they do
not rely upon the strike to enforce
their wage demands. Every one Is a
piece worker and II his boss is not
agreeable to changes in working con-
ditions, advances in pay or time of,
the workman simply puts his tools in
little bag and goes to another shop.
The numerical scarcity Of workers Of
his Kind assures him a job wherever
he may apply.