The sun., 1919-10-05
Couturiers Grasp at the Long Redin-
cote in Effort to Strike a Balance
by Covering the Skirts So
Scant in Length
toontinued from Proceeding pageO

was such success that he continues
on the same shades He has few
rust colored things but he uses them
more for trimming than anything else.
After all rust is hard tone and Is so
faddish that IL will not survive the
autumn. Blacks and blues are at
Drecoll's In profuslon, and his heavy
satin known as satin feutre is one of
the handsomest on the market This
satin Is often used to make founda-
ton skirt, and then the long redingote
is worn over 1t. Being soft and heavy
II fills the bill for the new skirt which
is supposed to stand out and show
every inch of goods in 1t.
There is virtually no garnish OF
any description at Drecol's and no
apology for the lack. Really we have
been seeing trimming so many years
that the eye is glad to rest on a plain
surface. The real embroidery left when
midinettes went ito the front" in
other words betook themselves to am
munition factories and became con-
ductors and wattmen on trans. The
couturiers substituted what WAS
neither pretty nor graceful coarse
cruel embroidery or applications OF
angora fur and brocade. These were
done to death and now the public
will have a repose 1t has earned
Some bits of embroidery did appear
last winter. for instance a little on
dressy frocks, the threads in gold or
| silver, but 1t made the dress so much
mere expensive that though the effect
was charming, II was abandoned.
Drecoll likes the baggy effect in
blouse and some of his best garments
have the blouse big and comfy, with
TO trimming whatsoever, the sole fin
ish the little girdle with ends falling
| into n loose bow about half a yard
from the long waist line. These
blcuses are attached to a tight lining.
though the waist line of the blouse
Is several inches aver than the real
thing. This dress mentioned was in
/ black satin and was one of the most
admired of the collection. And black
satin shows no idea of losing popu-
larity anywhere either. For many
years it has been sought. and GER
tainly it will hold its own for a long
time to come.
Novel Gowns Mt PRquin's.
The gowns at Paquin's are a trifie
longer and fuller than in some other
establishments. Foundations are al
ncst concealed by a heterogeneous
mass of tags and rags (no other ex-
preston could give an idea of the
loose draperies) slashed and cut into
many pieces, the pieces or ends falling
irregularly and far below the skirt
itself. These long flying draperies
may be trodden on and torn loose and
catch in everything; hut they are
novel and decorative, so let it go at
that
Paquin has brought the waist line
down to the front of the hip bones,
thus dethroning the short waist and
creating sort Of sailor blouse which
ir held over the skirt by means of
some sort of girdle. Materials for
street wear are in soft fuzzy goods.
very dark in tone. Much navy with
combinations OF black satin. Embroid-
cry in profusion here. not so much
Of floss as metal, pailettes and such.
One black satin. evening frock was
like a mermaid's scales with the man
ner and number of paillettes employed.
Strass or rhinestones are put with
nailheads.
At this place the. prevailing note in
evening gowns was white lace over
black, generally satin. Light thread
laces. point de Venise and Chantilly
most used. There is less fur used here
than elsewhere in the garnishing of
gowns and costumes. but the fur is