The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-01-11

Wen. Mrs. Parkhurst IS not the onl,
woman who wanted to Be a butterfly
In 30 ardent a way that she burst from
the chrysaIlis as soon as the armistice
went into effect and turned herself out
into the sunshine In radiant colors. AT
this season OF the year there is an
especially good chance to show ones
self OF In bright hues, for the South
ern season beckons. and even those
who have not the money, the time or
the inclination to drive In the Georgia
] woods, to dance at night In the Geor-
gia clubs. to swim In Palm Beach wa
tiers, or to frivol In its coconut grove,
can still follow the trend OF fashion
that is launched for these resorts.
There Is nothing startlingly new in
the silhouette that need frighen one
away from the clothes one possesses,
but all the signs Of the moment induce
one to believe that the Orient will
again rule In the contour of the figure.
Nothing else could explain this def
mite change In the drapery of the skirt.
1t has tilted upward In back for q
year; II now Tits up In front. Ameri-
can and French designers Joined hands
in making gowns that were remlnis-
cent Of the 1880 periods, and even
though our insteps were covered, our
heels were exposed. Today. even our
street frocks wrinkle against cur heels
and show our insteps. Evening gowns
show the ankle and q segment Of the
leg In front.
Splendid Evening Gowns Go South.
II did not need the impetus Of the
revival Of Southern gayety to bring
about the recrudescenee OF splendid
evening frocks. They sprang into be-
ing as soon as peace opened the lid Of
the box. They were the first real but
terfies that -futtered into the SUM-
shine.
There is one frock In red. green and |
gold brocade that shines like some Of |
the pieces of-medIeyal armor found In |
European museums. There are other |
brocsdes In white that are embossed |
with crystals and jewels, and there are
midnight blue, dull silver and deep red
brocades that look as though they be-
long to a fifteenth century canvas In
the Louvre. Probably they were made
before war broke out and were then
submerged by the demand for simple
None but an expert In the
Of cloth could tell from
whence they came. but II was an inter-
~
coming Of peace-this leaping into the
light Of brocades that we have never
seen.
There is a peacock brocade which
has been superbly handled in a gown
hat gives one an instant thought of q
proud peacock summing itself on an an
,ient garden wall By this time the
Gown is well known In Europe, IL not
n America. for it was made to see the
brilliant light that falls upon a high
Place.
BoxIIke Effect.
It Is obvious that the Americans will
~ to exploit the boxlike silhouette
launched by Paris last season, for
many Of the new gowns arranged for
he South. as alleged, or really to start
women into a new trend of fashion at
he turn of the season, are cut on
hese square. shapeIess lines that Cal
OF. Cheruit and Doucet strove to make
popular six months ago.
The sport suits which are sent South
ave the square Cheruit coat with its
many pockets and loose, unconfining
leeyes, and there are one-piece frocks
ut after the manner of the Cabot
own which resembles nothing so
much as coffee sack. Some of these