The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-10-19


long wasted bodice. with immense
black and white silk Pierrot collar
which runs nearly to the waist The
serge Is used for the skirt, knife pleat-
ed to blouse of satin, and is arranged
in open loops at each side to give width
without crinoline. The long sleeves
are open at the wrist, and below the
opening is a bracelet cuff of the satin
bound with white like the huge Pier
rot ruffle in front. Worth also had
a remarkably lovely tea gown in the
sweeping line one associates with
Trilby. The foundation was of sal
mon satin. gold touched, and the long
overdrapery was of gold mesh net. A
girdle of large dull colored roses en-
circled a low waist line. 1t had sufl-
cient dignity, this gown, to be used as
an informal dinner frock.
Doucet's Pictorial Parade.
1t was the opinion of several buyers
that the house of Doucet outdid itself
this season. The fabrics were Of great
value, the accessories were expensive
the number OF gowns shown was large.
The sensational element was not lack
ing, and as one has never learned to
expect this from Doucet, the shock
was the stronger. He presented two
evening frocks that were far more
startling than anything shown else
where.
The first was in mauve colored tulle
and taffeta, the former as an under
slip, the latter as a girdle and butter
fly overskirt. We have become ac-
customed to the sight Of bare legs, but
not to the spectacle of transparent
frock dropped over a figure which was
bare except for a pair of acrobat's
flesh colored silk trunks. The young
mannequin's legs showed quite plainly
through the mauve tulle slip from the
thigs to ankles. AS she was young
sturdy, pink and white the effect was
not sinuous. The overskirt of taffeta
was cut to a deep point, front and
back, and lifted high on the sides as
though one had merely pulled the stlff
fabric out into butterfly wings. Be-
meath these wings, joining them, and
outlining the edge of the silk trunks
was a band of large roses on each side.
The bodice was merely a bit of nauve
tulle above a taffeta g.rdle. The man
with what we call tango ribbons up
to the curve OF the leg.
The other frock of sensational char.
acter was OF black and white tulle, the
white predominating. The skirt wac
translucent, not transparent, but thu
bodice was omitted. Two slender strips
of white tulle, petal shaped rose
above the black Jet belt, stopped halt
way to the shoulder and changed into
jet strands that continued over the
shoulder to the belt in the back.
Doucet is said to be the most ardent
student and admirer of the eighteenth
century, but surely he took a leaf out
of the beginning of the nineteenth Ger
tury when he fashioned these two
evening frocks.. ct is n new .iement
which does not chase the oths element
out" was the comment of the premiere
vendeuse; but the American buyer
who said in English which the name
quin did not understand, kid, you'd
better walk fast If you wear that on
Broadway. for the cop will sure sc,
you at Forty street." voiced the
sentiments OF the Americans.
These were the only sensational
things shown at the house. Having
made the Americans gasp, tho col &c
ton turned itself into a parade Of
sumptuous fabrics, showing clever and
dignified ideas. There was a chemise
frock Of the conventional type, for in
stance, and nothing can be soberer
than it. The style is old. except as
Lanvin uses ii in the italian manner,
but Doucet built it OF such important
and colorful material that the Amer
cans liked 1t very well. In color It was
Roman gold and brown. The gold was
matelasse silk and the brown was
beaver The peltry was placed in two
bands, narrow and wide, divided by
rich embroidery of gold threads and
brown chenille.
Many OF the gowns shown by Prenlet
gave one the conviction that some one
robbed the roOst The tail of the
rooster has been separated and plonti.
fully sprinkled over the surface Of tUl'e
evening gowns. Along with rooster
feathers this season goes a quantity
of Monaghan fur, which Is nothing but
goat fur. One American said she was
going homo TO rent a place, raise
ROSTERS and goats and get rich quiC'.
selling to the dressmaking trade. She
hoped It would pay back the expenses
of one gown over 'nArz
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