Evening star., 1919-03-09
Medieval or 18th Century Gowns for Spring.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.
TIME season has been a prosper
GUS one in evening gowns. No
shop or dressmaker had cause
for complaint. The trend of
events followed the prophecy. The world
of women behaved exactly as prophets
expected them to do.
The southern season began bit late,
owing to the action of the railroad
administration in not putting on
through trains from New York until
the end Of January. and the added fact
that a secondary epidemic swept over
the whole country, including the
south, at the very hour when an i'm
mense exodus to the south and Cali
fornia was expected.
These two conditions merely delayed
that exodus They did not prevent 1t:
and as the dressmakers sold alleged
southern gowns to those who intended
to remain north, east OF west, 1t mat
tered little to them whether the boxes
were shipped to ones house or to
resort hotel.
Il a
There was change in evening
gowns during the first week in Febru-
ary which was significant of new ideas
and inspiration, brought about by the
opening of the American Riviera. One
significant fact was that less metallic
brocade was used than during Janu-
ary. Few IL any velvet gowns were
made Heavy gold and silver net was
not so lavishly used. The tendency
was away from the medieval magnih-
cence of those gowns that burst upon
a new world after November IL.
1t is quite probable that civilized so
ciety had not seen in five centuries the
amount of splendid metallic fabrics on
women that were worn from the mid
die of November until the middle of
February They were gorgeous enough
in their workmanship and coloring to
suggest the panoply of ancient war
fare, but in this era they were worn TO
proclaim peace. They Were merely an
expression Of joyousness and, Incl
dentally, of prosperity.
They were surely gowns with price
No one indulged In them who had
small allowance. The condition
seemed to the reporter of fashions
strong evidence of plentiful supply
Of money In the country when the re-
vived social life of the continent was
taken part In by women who wore
gowns made of such fabrics.
Whether or not next winter viii be
the time and place for revival of
these splendidly woven metallic cloths
no one knows, or cares. unless there
are some who have anxiety as to the
disposal of the fabrics left In their
possession. The hour seems TO have
passed for these gowns. They Will be
temporarily laid aside. to meet what
ever fate falls upon them when the
next frost comes,
Naturally, the woman who possesses
this type of frock win wear 1t, 1t is
at the height of fashion. There is no
cabal against it. The fact must be
pointed out, however. that one who is
ordering new evening frocks should
not extend patronage to these splendid
weaves
They are not suitable for spring
nights They need the artificial warmth
OF winter, with it's curtained windows.
It's brilliant lights, it's exotic heat in
the house. This is true of the heavy
metallic brocades, mind YOU. but not
of those soft exquisite silks that are
now placed upon the market and that
lend themselves most happily to the
swathing of the figure that fashion
permits.
The Paris house of C'allot has always
chosen "A few exquisitely supple bro
cades to exploit every season. They
are offered in February as In August
There are times when American buyers
rebel against their splendor, but this
rebellion does not affect the tradition
of one of the most celebrated fashion
houses In the world, and what was
done last February was done this
February,
Callott, as well as other dominating
houses, constantly show brocade that
has thread Of silver through It, but
this bit of bullion does not destroy
the supple quality of the brocade One
sees this CLINT of silver through che
new pink and blue brocades that may
be the forerunners of pastel shades
for evening. 1t is quite possible, you
know, that the vivid coloring and in
tense brilliancy Of the gowns we wear
now. and have worn since the middle
OF November, may be substituted by
the Vatican shades that were clasely
linked with the eighteenth century.
and this subtle change may be what Is
occurring to evening clothes just now.
change I'm coloration. The world work
ed itself into fever in it's desire for
what the French call cathedral win