davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22
FRIDAY AFTERNOON, AUG. q, 1919
THE COUNTRY PRESS AND The
POSTAL ZONE LAW.

The so-called postal zone system"
now a law until repealed, abolishes
our basic postal principles establish
ed for more than half century.
This revival of the idea that cost
must determine the postage rate, in
PRODUCES a new element of such I'M
portance to the country newspapers
of this nation that they need to scru-
tinize with great care and precision
before they blindly support the postal
zone system, as some of them at
least seem disposed to do.
There is no more important ser
vice than that rendered, or which
may be rendered, the American peo-
pie by the small country newspapers.
Recognizing this fact, free mail de-
livery within the county OF publlca-
ton was provided for the country
press many years ago This free
postal service was never regarded as
a subsidy to country newspapers. 1t
was a vital public service of informa-
ton and education to rural readers.
1T meant, chiefly, freedom of circula-
ton to the readers, for any postal
charge would be added to the sub
scription price, directly or indirectly.
The subsidy, If 50 1t might be
termed, was to the readers, to the
people themselves, who pay for it in
their national taxes. The rural de-
livery il for the benefit of the country
newspaper reader.
Now, the latest official report of
the Post Office Department shows
that the annual cost per newspaper
On Rural Free Delivery routes IL 4
cents per piece AS the country pa
pers weigh approximately ten or
eleven to the pound, this would mean
"a minimum postage charge on coun-
try newspapers Of fourteen cents
per pound.
The First Assistant Postmaster
General last year, testifying before
a Senate committee, stated that the
overhead" on every pound of news
paper mail was 3.S cents per pound.
Therefore. on this new rule of postal
"cost," the country press of this ma
ton will have to face the terrific
total postage charge of almost eight
cen cents per pound.
OF course, no country publisher
can afford postage charge of eight
cen cents pound. He must pass
this charge on to his subscribers, re-
ducing thereby his circulation.
This -Oyerturn of postal principles
in existence for over fifty years will !
impose a very great injustice upon
the country newspapers and their
readers. The rural delivery j. the
most expensive and least profitable
OF all the postal departments and !
therefore the revival of this old post
al theory will put upon the country
press of America the highest rates of
postage in the land.-From Evening
News. Peekekill, N. Y.
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22
FIGHTING HIGH PRICES.

Public feeling driven almost to
desperation by continued advances in
living costs il demanding that the
federal government check the tend
ency to higher prices. The govern
ment will no doubt attempt something
to meet the existing situation and 10
will have support in any reasonable
measures.
The first and principal cause Of
high prices il that wages have been
greatly advanced in~nearly all trades.
the employing class as some people
imagine. They are simply added 10
the cost of goods After everyone
has had his advance and has paid
out the money in higher prices he
discovers that he is no better Off. If
he has saved any money he is wJrse
off. as new his bank deposit will not
buy as much as formerly.
There is also very widespread be-
lief that there is much profiteerins il
many trades. If the wholesalers and
the manufacturers are asking exorri-
tant prices they are pursuing course
of extreme folly. They are about as
safe a. man who should send Oft
lot of July Fourth fire works in a
powder magazine.
These are times when no person
can safely demand an exorbitant re
turn for the service he renders 10 50
ciety. Also the people are tired #
the illusory promises of demagogues
They want the real facts and truth
without romance and rhetoric.
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22
RAILROAD TRAVEL IN SUMNER

r It Is hard to find anywhere more
uncomfortable looking set Of people
than the occupants of an ortipary
railroad day coach OH warm summer
day. Their minds being freed from
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22
(The Leader, of Lewisburg, Ohio>
Published by reuueSt)

The 18th census was taken ten
years ago at a cost OF $4,000, 0OO
The result was one hundred million
population, scattered over three hun
dred millions of square miles of
earth's surface. The 18th census will
require 100000 men and an outlay Of
about $18,000,00, and must Be COM
pleted before the end Of 1920.
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22

and should read the following by +. I'll.
-four years ago 4 used Chamberlain's
Collie and DiarrhOea Remedy with such
wonderful results that I have SINCE re-
commended it to my friends
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22
A. Great Remedy.

The merits of Chamberlainrs Collie ana
DiarrhOea Remedy are well known and
appreciated, but there Il occasionally
man who had no acquaintance with them
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22

The most popular book in The
world il the Bible. III has been
translated into more than 100 differ
ent languages, and every year more
The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1919-08-22

than 100000 books, testamenLs, No.
portions, are put into circulation; " III I.
sides the countless books WHY
about the Bible.
The sun., 1919-09-07
COAT SUITS WITH LINGERIE OR LACE BLOUSES RULE IN PAP

than a rolled collar ana the front n,
it is made entirely of lace with bola
design. Dead white is rarely seen. An !
the net and lace looks as though II
were dipped in strong tea There ara
few muslin blouses and very few geor.
gette crepe ones. Chiffon Of rather
thick weave, lace trimmed, and hand.
kerchief linen with fine filet or bands
of open work is used freely.
Many Colored BIouses Worn,
There never has been time when
Paris has exhibited so many colorea
blouses. 1t is considered smart ia
wear a short vest with a rolling collar
in an extravagant colored material
such as iris blue satin brocaded with
silk, or oyster white satin slammed
with leaves of gold, or geranium silk
with circles of silver. There are very
few white vests, or skeleton blouses
as they really are, except those in
white chiffon or lace. The rest of them
are brilliant in color and high in price.
Another feature of fashion with
these tailored suits is the guimpe ~
broadly striped red and white linen or
silk. The stripes go up and down
from collarbone to waist and on tho
bias in the collar. These skeleton
blouses are worn in the morning and
the cream color lace ones in the after.
noon.
None of the new tailored suits worn
by French women Is of satin or taf.
feta they are of rough cloth; beige ia
the leading color. The weave is some.
what like crude homespun and the
coat usually has cravat girdle OF
which the world should be very, very
weary.
If a wrap is needed with tailored
suit it is found in a rough serge or
homespun cape. The homespun leads
by a neck. These capes only reach 10
the knees, they are rounded in 'front.'
have Sits for the arm holes and a
rolling collar that goes to the hem in
front. They are in gray, sometimes in
white, but oftenest in dark blue When
serge is used it is often ornamented
with openwork bands, the threads
pulled out to outline squares of the
material.
These capes are not lined; their
seams are so arranged that they can
be worn without lining. They are quite
comfortable and look better than the
satin cape. They give more warmth,
and warmth lis something that every
American has desired this summer in
Paris. The price of wood is high and
there have been few American rooms
in which 1t has not been burning every
forenoon to dry out the room as well
as to warm 1t.
And that expense, along with all the
other and more important expenses,
soon reduces ones letter of credit to
scrap of paper So be warned in time;
don't cross the ocean unless you feel
that you are willing and able to spend
twice the maximum you allowed. It's
not more expensive than New York,
but 1t is no longer as cheap as Paris
in pre-war days.
The sun., 1919-09-07
RETURNED SOLDIERS MENU

T TAVE you a returned soldier in
Fl your home? And would you
like him to be happy? To for
get those French mademolselles toot
sweet? To go back to his new or old
job and stick, even though It does seem
to be bit Of bore at first? Then
follow this advice. approved by Col.
Woods, assistant to the Secretary OF
War:
Feed him we'll and you will make
him happy. Give him good food, plain
cooking and very fancy cooking But
remember that he has acquired certain
inalienable hatreds.
Don't give him beans. Green beans
are all right. But never give him the
comedy beans.
Don't give him salmon. Not cooked
or smoked or in salad.
Don't give him hash. Not even II
he liked it before.
Don't give him corned beef. Not
even In sandwiches or with eggs.
When he was over there he called IL
''corned willy" monkey meat" and
"bully beef"
Don't give him bread pudding. He
has had a great deal too much of It.
Don't give him rice pudding. II will
make him think he is being forcibly
fed.
Don't give him condensed milk.
Don't give him Irish stew. He used
to call it "slum" in the army. He no
longer desires II.
The sun., 1919-09-07

Wartime economy may have kept us
from wearing gloves in the evening,
but the cessation of war did not bring
them back, for with the coming of
peace has been a desire to show our
Jewels, and this cannot be done to
good advantage when our ring fingers
are encased in kid.
The lace NIT is a compromise. 1t is
o glove, and at the same time It will
reveal our rings Women once wore
them and felt that they were not
really dressed up" without them.
They have been worn little this
summer, and there is good reason to
believe that they are fashion that
will be on the increase.
Kid gloves are not plain kid gloves
any more. They are embroidered, and
cut out, and ornamented in a half
dozen different ways One interesting
pair shows a cut out design on the
back, with black silk showing through
the cut outs.
Those on the, hands are loosely
wrinkled from somewhat below the
elbow. They are embroidered in black
SILK, in a vine design. Lying below
them is pair OF white gloves en-
broidered in flowers in the natural
color, and there is another pair of
white gloves with a silk embroidered
triton and little silk binding along
the edge Of the wrist. Then there is a
smart black kid street glove. with an
inset OF white. This glove Is of the
gauntlet sort, and theIe is strap
fastening.
The gloves on the hand are laced on
with black ribbons. You know every
body now wears sandal shoes that are
laced about the ankles. Well, this
glove is just another manifestation of
the same idea. Black velvet ribbons
are fastened at the wrist end of white
gloves and are then neatly laced
around the forearm.
One OF the other gloves i'm this circ,.
is made with an arrow of little STRAPS
that snap shut along the side.
The sun., 1919-09-07
SWEATER CHANGE IMPORTANT.

y My "a few weeks ago We no.
I ticed that there was predi-
lection on the part of those who
were in the vanguard of fashion for
knitted sweaters that rufiled Just be-
low the. waist and showed sleeve
that was baggy just above the wrist
They were worn by the most 'eN-
elusive it was said, and at the resorts
you might see them worn by those
who haunted the most expensive
hotels or who dwelt in the most pa
latial of cottages.
But now these hip ruffiing sweaters
are as common and as usual as enor-
nous ear horns. Every other young
girl that leaves shop or office for her
little two weeks of vacation either
takes that sort OF sweater with her
or knits one while she is away. And
SO it is. The exclusive of yesterday
becomes the commonplace of to-day
and the commonplace of to-day finds
its place in the mission box OF TO-
morrow
The sun., 1919-09-07
GLOVES THE PROBLEM

THERE was time when the glove
requirement of most we'll dressed
women was simply a matter OF
keeping on hand dozen or so pairs OF
long white gloves. a dozen or so short
white gloves, and some dark colored
gloves for morning or sport wear The
proposition further consisted in keep
Ing these gloves on the way to and
from the cleaners so that always there
would be enough on hand for possibly
weeks requirements.
Sometimes the place Of the colored
gloves for morning was taken by
washable doeskin gloves and then the
proposition included seeing that these
gloves were properly washed when
soiled.
The very well dressed woman of
really good taste rather avoided the
gloves that were ornate. To her glove
luxury consisted in having them al
ways OF the best material and always
Immediately clean. That was In the
days when a woman always went
eloved, save to bed and to breakfast
no, for she may have worn them
TO bed over coating of cold cream or
other skin softener, and IL she break
tasted anywhere but in the bosom of
her own family she wore gloves then.
Now women wear gloves very much
less than they did. and they think
much more about the sort OF gloves
they wear, They pay more for them.
not only because gloves have gone up
Ike every thing else f.oni caviar 20
coffee but because they buy gloves
thet are far more elaborate. A woman
now has special gloves for special
frocks. They are accessories that are
conserved with tender care, as they
were in the days OF old when folk left
them in wills TO their descendants.
They say that one thing that has
had to do with the abandonment of
gloves and the refusal on the part of
fashionably dressed women to go back
TO them for formal evening wear is
the desire TO show gorgeous rings.
The sun., 1919-09-07
NEW BRACELETS GARIsH.

7 F you have a bracelet of diamonds.
you may prefer to wear this to
any other sort, but II you do you
will be no more in the fashion or no
better dressed than " you weer z
bracelet that is made OF black velvet
ribbon. In fact. women of fashion,
some of them, let their diamond brace
lets lie dormant while they sport these
velvet armlets, often placed one above
and one below the elbow.
Bands of maline tied in fluffy little
choux are also worn above the elbow
by way OF arm decorations. Some
times they are in color to match the
frock with which they are worn and
sometimes they are black or brown.
that makes the skin most fair of hue
The sun., 1919-09-07
PARIS, Aug. 20.

PARIS, Aug. 20.
TIME first query put by the newly
arrived American concerns the
manner In which Paris amuses
itself. In pre-war days the American
tourist dominated the pleasure places
of the summer scene; 1t was said by
residents that monstrous and amazing
things were done to lure coin from the
American and to amuse him and his
wife.
But there is none OF the brilliancy
in costumery at any of the night res
taurants that one saw before the war.
The gorgeous evening gowns that were
worn at such places as the Cafe de
Paris are lacking. During the season
of suppers at the Pre- Catelan, which
was the late spring racing season,
women wore the most extreme eve
ming costumes. but the Pre- Catelan has
devoted it's attention to the tea hour
and does not encourage dinner or sup.
ner parties. In the Bots. at Armenon-
vile, for instance, the brilliant cos
tunes worn at the Sunday luncheon
hour are missed, for they once pre-
scented a brilliant array of new fash
ions; any one who had a smart hat, a
conspicuous frock. capricious wrap,
would wear it to the Bots, especially
on Sunday. so that all the rest OF the
world might see, envy and copy. To-
day that is not done.
Amasea Americans.
The tables are we'll filled at Ar
menonville, but the women wear coat
suits with lingerie or lace blouses. or
q soft gilet of colored and metallic bro
cade, which carries a rolling collar
and a row OF buttons down the side
When one piece frocks are worn they
are beige or black, and cut in the ac-
cepted bathing suit style. which rules
Paris and amazes Americans. This
frock, after ALL is merely foundation
for a wrap which is loaded with fur
or half covered with fringe. and
which is rarely lifted from the Shout
ders.
Even in private houses at the tea
hour women do not remove their
capes. They are a part Of the Co.'S
tune. A smart house makes a cape
for frock, and no persuasion can get
the cape without the gown by one
who offers good money for 1t because
It suits a frock in her possession. st
would be like selling the coat without
the skirt" says the vendeuse. and
that ends the bargaining.
Possibly one Of the reasons against
fine and brilliant costumery at the
restaurants is the limited number of
private motor cars and the utter ca
priciousness Of public chauffeurs. Few
women, even those OF wealth, will risk
q smart new gown and a thin pair of
slippers when there Is no security re-
garding the return from the restau-
rant.
Whenever a woman danced in a long
The sun., 1919-09-07

Don't give him horse meat. You
wouldn't anyway but nevertheless
don't
This leaves a number OF pleasant
dishes which you may serve him He
will. welcome chocolate ice cream, thick
steak, roast beef. French fried pota-
toes, salad with Russian dressing, ham
and eggs and other delectable dishes.
II you treat him in accordance with
the culinary advice so outlined he will
once more be one of the worlds happy
workers and stick to his Job, be it old
or new.
The sun., 1919-09-07
Gorgeous Evening Gowns Missing and Capes Are Worn
Even at Private Teas-7Limted Number of Private
Is Motors One Reason for Simpler Costumes Dancing
and Cnen1as Chief Amusenents of All Classes

severe as an American suit of a dec
ade ago.
1t would be interesting to watch the
development of this fashion in Amer
lea and see IL the coat and skirt will
predominant the frock The reason
given for 1t in Paris is the effort to
give work to the demobillzed tailors.
This reason seems plausible, for the
coat suit has been worn as never be-
fore in Paris since the armistioe.
The "Reminiscences of the lace blouse
The sun., 1919-09-07

move her coat until she removes her
skirt.
This lace guimpe. or gilet, as the
French call il, is dominating gar
ment. 1t has a sailor collar oftener
The sun., 1919-09-07

is using coarse net lace that has a
thick raised design on 1t; 1t is more
fashionable than filet. There are
skeleton waistcoats Of lace which show
that the French woman does not re-
The sun., 1919-09-07

skirt she was the object of attention,
If not of censure. Unless one goes
to private house to dinner there Is
no necessity for an evening gown.
Americans who are not socially placed
in Paris, no matter how brilliant their
position at home, have not found a
conventional evening gown right to
invent it's own styles they are merely
regarded as barbarians, and their
clothes are laughed at more than are
the costumes of the barbarians, what
ever they may be.
Joke to the Parisiennes.
The desire of the American woman
tn cover as much of her body as pos
sible this season Is the supreme jest to
French society. Therefore II is a de-
lightful thing to the observer to go to
dinner that includes women who
wear French evening gowns and the
Americans who wear American frocks.
It's a study in human nature. The
American is either edefiant, self-con-
scious or embarrassed with her long
tight skirt wrapping about her ankles
as she dances. The F'renchwoman
bobbing around in the jazz with knee
length skirts and five inch bodices is
making satirical remarks to her part
ner about the long skirt of the Ameri-
can and all the rest of the society
present is whispering or arguing.
French women who have never
gone to cinema house before are
there in costumes that are worn in
the afternoon and even morning;
tailored suits and small turbsns. The
Americans follow the French custom
Of dressing quietly for such a per-
Torrance. II is a great relief to be
able to do so much in Paris that is en-
joyable without the effort of getting
into a costume that Is elaborate and
chilly in these damp days. and putting
on slippers that demand a taxi and
having the hair coiffured. 1t is a very
comfortable life when one can walk to
the theatre, wear a simple frock. q
good looking wrap and a turban that
can be taken Off or left on. The French
have led the way in this type Of DRESS
ing, but 1t is dreary audience for the
fashion reporter and the illustrator
Lace Blouse Is Popular.
The growing acceptance Of the tail
ored suit is interesting to the Ameri-
can observer. Its frequent appear
ance at restaurants, at the cinema and
ii all those fascinating pavilion res
taurants in the Bots makes one stop
and speculate. What is the reason :?
For four years the French have in
sisted on the one piece frock, and over
here are vast number OF well dressed
French women with plain coats and
skirts demurely lined. scanty of mate
rial, and a chiffon or lace blouse added
There are ornamental suits, but they
are ordered by American visitors and
the women of the Peace Conference
The French woman, even II she is in
the ultra set, wears a coat suit din
ing when she is in public that is as
The sun., 1919-09-07

is interesting and the American women
who are here have taken up the fash
ion with considerable show OF en-
thusiasm.
The department shops and all the
Evening star., 1919-08-19
BLOW OPEN ?. 0.
SAFE;;GET NOTHING
Yeggs at Fairfax Also Fire at
Woman-Postmaster Bank
ed Cash and Stamps.

FAIRFAX. Va. August 1.-Two
of the Fairfax post Office last night
had their trouble for their pains.
Because Postmaster Cummings for
some time has made a practice of
depositing all cash and stamps in the
Fairfax Bank each evening at the
close of business the safeblowers got
nothing.
Residents of Fairfax were awak-
ened about 8 o'clock this morning by
q heavy explosion, followed q few
minutes later by the reports Of two
revolver shots. The shots were fired
at Minnie Graham, who. hearing the
explosion from her home, went to a
window. saw the disappointed bur-
glars and raised the alarm.
As he fired. one of the two bur-
glars shouted: IF we didn't get
anything at the post ONCE we'l get
you!"
& The man was = rapr narksman, as
both shots Hlsaed-
$, The post ,ofacez safe N&4sblown open
with nitroglyoerin poured Into the
crevice around the door and detonat-
The safe door was blown open and
bent almost double, the inner door.
broken into fragments. being found
on the floor. The interior of the
post off1ce was not damaged. After
the safe was blown open 1t required
tanned nothing Of value. and the bur-
glars hurriedly left without disturb
ing q small amount of money and
stamps in a drawer in the letter rack.
Entrance to the post Office was gained
by forcing open a side window. the
burglars using tools taken from o. B.
Caclpbcll's automobile. standing in 4
garage at the rear of the post Office.
Two strangers seen about the vii
lage yesterday afternoon are sus-
pected. They are believed to have
left in an automobile a few minutes
after the unsuccessful attempt at bur-
gIary. Postal officials and police in
Washington have been notified and
Sheriff Allison went to work on the
case this morning.