The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-07-27

that the first Garden Court of the sea-
 son is over, the vexed question of
 what shall be worn on such an auspi-
 cious occasion has been definitely set
 tied. But beforehand there was any
 amount of doubt ana mental and spiri-
 tual disturbance among debutantes. and / others as to the attire that would be
 considered correct" when making a
 ceremonious afternoon call upon their
 majesties, the King and Queen in the
 gardens of Buckingham Palace To be
 sure garden party at the palace is not
 at all an unusual occurrence, but then.
 there is a special significance about
 this seasons alfresco functions. As
 they take the place of the usual for
 mal evening courts they are naturally
 very much more important as cere-
 monius occasions. However that may
 be, dresses this summer have to be
 very seriously considered when viewed
 from the standard set by Queen Mary,
 who disapproves- highly of the tendency
 of modern fashions. I was told by a
 well known woman who received an
 animation from the lord chamberlain
 that their majesties will be pleased to
 receive her at Buckingham Palace, that
 she was given quite a long list of fin
 structions" as to her. dress and her
 arrival at, and her departure from the royal presence. It was pretty clearly pointed out that the term afternoon
 dress" had to be taken within the limits
 of its description. The costumes of ladies must be adequate" Also, they
 must have sleeves reaching at least to the elbow; the neck may be opened in front but the back must be covered and the skirts must reach the ankles,
 The official Suggestions for femi-
 nine afternoon dress do not include an
 exact measurement of the width of skirt desirable but it is suggested that dresses of too transparent a tendency
 will not be viewed with favor by off, ficials of the court.
 All this somewhat autocratic state
 of affairs is, I believe, the result of some of the amazing costumes seen in the royal enclosure during Ascot week. Certainly the book of revelations is as nothing compared to the amazing models that were seen during the warm days of England's most wonder ful and representative race-meeting! s'Talk about seeing through people" heard one youth with eyes as big as tea-trays remark, 'Why it's as bad as an X-ray photograph" And certainly there was not very much left to the im- agination on the lawn at Royal Ascot and I for one felt very pleased that the weather was so warm, otherwise many of the ladies present might have taken chills or laid the seeds for an attack of pneumonia.
 Queen Mary was considerably shock ed at the transparency of attire adopt ed by most of the women and am told that she personally asked the King to make it impossible for re- petition to occur in their own gardens of such an astonishing state of "un- dress.' And so 1t is that every woman who is proposing to make her bow, be- fore the King and Queen during these summer afternoons has received a sort of supplementary pamphlets dealing with the question of clothes. Queen Mary is, as every one knows, a decided .stickler for extreme propriety of dress among ladies of her entourage None of the ladies in attendance on the Queen are allowed toewear dresses the skirts of which come above the ankle. Their
 sleeves (for day costumes) must either cover the wrist or be of elbow length, and the collarless bodice must be of a most discreet character and is not allowed to err upon the side of transparency. Princess Mary, for i'm stance, wears the most exquisitely thin muslins and organdies, but the bodices are usually lined and, am told, that the pretty camisoles of the Princess are all made with little sleeves that shield the upper part of the arms. The Queen has more than once dis played her displeasure when ladies of social eminence have appeared in her presence with very ab bbreviated and tight skirts and bodices that certainly do not err on the side of decorum. However I have heard much weeping and wailing in regard to the exquisite and diaphanous garments that have been prepared at much expense by many of the would-be guests at the | royal courts. Unless their sleeves are | heightened, their skirts let down and | underlinings and under-petticoats pro- vided they will not be admitted into l the presence when festivities are afoot ] at Buckingham palace.
 On these occasions, by tho way, it is l to note that the King and l Queen stand beneath a wonderful canopy | Of rich Indian silks supported at four | corners by tall posts of wrought silver | fnlaid with lines of ivory and mother | of-pearl. This superb open marquee | was brought from India by the late King Edward. During his reign he l and beautiful Alexandria would stand l and receive their guests beneath it when they gave garden parties at | and at Buckingham Palace. |
 Dancing seems as popular as ever in London and not for many years, even in pre-wa< times, have, there been so numerous q list of entertainments of | the kind I have before me a memo randum of the dances to come in the next fortnight, and find that they number no fewer than 33, all of these being given by hostesses of importance. On one evening four dances take place. One is very big affair giving by ady de Bunsen, and another of equal s;ze by Mrs. Whythes at her splendid house in Berkeley square. Another evening brings with it five dances, among tho most important of which will be Lady Bewicke-Copeley's at S6 Brooke street and Mrs. Meyer SAssoon's 1t heh gorgeous house in Hamilton