Evening star., 1919-04-20


NOTES OF FASHIONS.
A MERIcA has decided to reject the
colored metallic cloths sent over by
Paris designers In evening gowns. We
prefer satin, tulle. taffeta and beaded
net.
Women are to be as elaborately gar
nished with colored beads as the early
American Indians. The new French and
American gowns accentuate this form
of ornament. There are deep yohes Of
colored beads on evening gowns. which
is novelty that will be widely copied,
Sashes are beaded. lace fiounces, tulle
bodices and even serge and satin street
frocks.
The immense directoire sash gains in
importance. 1t is tied with butterfly
low at the side Of the back. Sometimes
its ends drop down into snakelike trains.
Ostrich feathers have reached high
pinnacle Of fashion. They are shown
in groups Of three, called the prince
of Wales feathers, to tuck out the puffs
of soft fabric which are on the hips of
the new skirts. This fashion has been
exploited in America for year and has
just received attention from the public.
France accentuates ostrich feathers in
evening costumes and in all kinds Of
millinery. The milliners surround flow
ers with ostrich flues. The neckwear
people use tiny ostrich tips to make
high, Sarah Bernhardt collars that flare
outward and upward over the chin.
These are worn with decollete, gowns
in the evening and with partly low
gowns in the day.
Colored metallic ribbon is used on dark
is used for the house and sometimes for
the street. Ribbon is also used as the
end Of SASH which begins in beaded
tulle.
The milliners have invented veil Of
dark blue tulle which has a border Of
tiny blue ostrich tips. The veil is worn
in the new way, dropping loosely under
the chin to the collarbone over the bare
neck, and running straight up behind
the ears to the top of the hat The
edge Of this type of veil is always orna-
mental, in order to give the directoire
bride under the chin. The use of os-
trich feathers on silk net is new and
interesting.
MI H-r
times for the day, are definitely Japa-
nese or Tanagra. The Tapped seam
which we have placed at the back Of
our skirts is now placed at the front.
The material Is pulled slightly upward
in folds that go around the hips and
the end Of the spine. II a woman copies
the contour Of the costumes worn in
Farrar's Mime. Butterfly" she gets the
correct effect. The skirt that is open in
back to show the heels, or tilted up the
back. Is out Of fashion. A few French
designers drape skirts upward in back.
but they cover this drapery with panel
train that spreads on the floor.
The directoire influence is felt
throughout all phases Of spring cOs-
tumery. 1t is the type OF the directoire
which was Influenced, in it's day. by
Greece and Rome. The lncroyable style
Is introduced for the street. and the
classic Ii used for house gowns.
A primitive type Of skirt has been re-
vived in the fashions. 1t coRsists Of one
extremely wide piece Of material with
the selvage left on 1t. The material
10 draped about the figure, piRned in
place. and then finished in the work.
room. This IL the oldest skirt known to
civilization. 1t will now be the domi-
mating skirt in the new dawn Of civiliza-
ton
Chantilly lace and all the ether OBJ
tainable wide laces are in high fashion
for transparent gowns. This is a form
OF coQuetry in dress brought about be-
cause We are weary Of uniforms and
tailored clothes on women. Shawls are
draped into skirts; fve and six founces
are used on tulie evening gowns, and
long panels Of Chantilly lace are used
as trains, weighted with jet tasse,s, to
remain on the floor.