The Jasper news., 1919-02-13

New IOrk.--Twtce year the little
gyration of public opinion takes place
around tailored suits, writes leading
fashion correspondent. There Is a
rapid swirl around new center, and
It sweeps over two continents. Twice
a year women regard the tailored suit
as the most important problem to be
solved. A new one for autumn and a
new one for spring Is the necessity Of
the rich and the extravaganza of the
merely weil-to-do. The glamor of one
piece froeks, heaped with fur or COW
cred with smart topcoats, dies out. In
autumn and spring we approach days
when wraps are burdensome and the
one-piece frock, unprotected, is chilly.
We need the American costume that
was invented to serve our necessity.
In January we begin to face the win
ter, and yet, with our usual capricious-
ness, we face the fact of choosing
new tailored suit. Even If we do not
buy 1t; we talk about 1t. We like to
speculate upon It's possibilities. We
show exceeding interest in the new
fabrics that are advanced for It and
the colors that the season will pro-
claim. Shlrtwaists and various types
of blouses engage our attention. The
length Of coats, the narrowness of
skirts, the warmth of velours, the serv-
iceability of taffeta, the probabilities
Of satin remaining In fashion, are
phrases and reflections that fit
through the mind.
The dressmakers do good propa-
ganda work along this line at this
time. The Palm Beach season Is
thrown at us like a brilliant flag
against gray, sleet-filled sky. 1t de-
lights our souls. 1t makes us think of
palm trees and coconut groves, of red
clay roads in Georgia and Carolina, of
pines that reach into the blue and
Groom queer songs throughout the
night. In other words, the tailored
suit, offered to us today, makes us all
dream; and dreams Of pleasant things
make life bearable.
Moderate Skirts In Street suits.
Now, here are the essentials to pro.
duce the dreams: Skirts are moderate
in length and width In the new things
that are exploited. They do not sweep
the ankles; they do not curve in at
the back Of the knees they have little
resemblance to the lower part of a
mermaids body; they are straight,
their seams hold them steady; they
barely escape the ankles. and they al
low freedom Of movement.
There Is no return to a flare at the
hem Of the skirt. Nothing ripples.
But II the skirt Is not permitted to
curve out, neither Is 1t permitted to
curve In. Remember that. fer 1t is an
essential step toward grace.
There is an entire absence of fur on
the suits. This is appropriate for the
season, but 1t Is significant of the fash
Ions of the present hour, for many
women buy suits in January that are
intended to serve them through the
cold weather yet to come. They must
be guided In their choice of reduced
suits today by what will be worn to-
morrow.
The best tailor is content to let a
skirt go free of ornamentation. Braid
Is overdone, fringe has become COM
monplaee, and neither will be returned
to the spring fashions, as far as the
prophets can see.
Angora embroidery vanished with
the war. Bias bands are good, and
one of the best suits worn by one who
prides herself on leading the way, has
three bias folds, doubled and stitched
at the upper edge. These ornament
the hem.
Any woman would care to know the
details Of this suit because Of Its pres
tige at the moment. 1t is Of rough
cheviot In mixed, golden brown that
: reminds one of the heather mixtures,
Sally the touch Of green Is absent.
There is the. straight skirt with. Its