Arizona republican., 1919-09-29
REAL ENGLAND L|ES IN NORTH
 WRITER FINDS
London Is Only Camou- flage, Margaret Walter Finds, and Wanders to Manchester to Discover the English People
By MARGARET WALTER. (ReciprcaI News Servjce.)

MANCHESTER, Sept. 28.-(By Mail )-Once you get out of London you begin to discover England Lon don isn't England. London is just camouflage for England. Up here they tell you that London isn't even in England. It may be the capital of the world, or the capital of the empire, but it isn't the capital of England. Man chester, Leeds ,Birmingham-thes are capital cities of England.
 It takes a long dull August in Lon don to make you begin to feel that if London is England, then England is going under. I couldn't believe that so I started out alone and unguided to dis cover England-the England that keeps going all the year round. Only yester- day at Victoria, a southern terminus, had heard a reproachful voice with a thick northern accent deliberately exclaim in the hustling mob of travel CTS, This is coontry O holiday makers, that's what it's cooming tew" So I avoided holiday makers stations like Victoria and Paddington and headed north.
 When the northbound express drew out of St. Pancras, I felt some of the excitement of adventure that every Englishman says he feels (and which every sensible New Yorker feels) when for the first time he races along the Hudson on a western flyer. The calm but instant punctuality, the solidity of the trains, the home-going look on faces, above all the genial gruff outspoken voice of the conduc- tor-it was almost like going west.
 You may think it's a little way tc Manchester from London, but dis tances don't count in England and the 5-hour journey is no measure of the difference between them. If you could pick up Buffalo and put it down ir Kansas and double it's population by filling it up with big hearted strong voiced Kansasans and then compare ii with a combination of Philadelphia Baltimore and Washington, you would get some idea of the difference be. tween London Gin August especially and Manchester Also note in pass ing, you get much change of scenery going there as you would on that west. ern trip, particularly if you go through the peat country of Derbyshire by thu Midland railway, which happened tt be my choice.
 The Real England.
 You are at once given to understand WneH yOu dTTlN0 III V1dnCucSlCI II lOll London that this is the real England this is the spring from which the lift of England flows. As to London Manchester regards London as '; strong and successful business maI indulgently looks upon a capricioui and wayward women whom he love- to spoil. She has her moods and he i tantrums, her vices and her luxuries and he laughs and is amused. But h. knows all about her, even to the exac cost of her latest jazz petticoat. H' pays for all her foibles, pays ant smiles and knows that if it were no for him she would languish and di | forthwith.
 The north doesn't advertise; rightl, speaking there is hardly anything tha you could call shopping district il Manchester; the people who go ther to buy know exactly where they ar going and what they are going to ge before they get there. Portland street with it's immense vista of huge square faced buildings, it's plain brass plate and it's solid names, it's miles of de corous window blinds that give n hint during all their length of wha those buildings stand for, is typical o Manchester.
 "The name is enough" How thi phrase comes back to you again an again, yet it is never mentioned. Ger tain things are commonplace in Man chester. The daily papers, of whic there are four, besides the Mancheste editions of the London papers, neve speak of the arrival or departure of strangers in the city though thousand come and go every week, from ever | quarter of the globe. They neve mention what any of the great firm are doing; it is only in London paper that you may get a bit of gossip abou business affairs here.
 No Need to Advertise.
 Manchester feels no need of adver tisement When I asked Mancheste man why it was so hard to find ou anything about the town he sait "Wave no need to impress a body" S