New-York tribune., 1919-08-21
Women Will Be Buried I'm
to Eyes in Furs and I'm.
comfortably Constructed
Around Their Ankles
Much Interest in Show
American Fashions Will
Contrast With French,
Exhibition Here Indicates

Tight, soft, slinky clothes, with a
wealth of coloring and richness of ma
,erial. are to be the correct thing this
autumn, if the fashion indications at
the exhibition put on by the Shelton
Looms and Associated Garment Manu-
facturers in the ballroom of the Ritz
Carlton Hotel yesterday afternoon, are
confirmed. Women will be buried up to
the eyes in fur. given all kinds Of lati-
uncomfortably around the ankles.
This is the fourth fashion show given
by the Shelton Looms under the per
sonai direction of Sidney Blumenthal
The avowed object is to stimulate in
,erest in garments of American design
made from textiles: of domestic manu-
facture. Zest was added to the con-
ventlonal parade of mannequins yester-
day by the competition of more than
fifty well known New York houses for
eleven substantial cash prizes. Some
Partisan coats and gowns were notice
able among the hundred odd entries,
but they were not in competition with
American creations.
Distinctly Conservative
The entire showing was distinctly
conservative. The prize winning
gowns and coats we're all extremely
simple in line. Only the colors ran
riot. with warm reds browns and blues
in the ascendant. The materials we're
particularly lovely, with pushes, vel
vets and waterfall silks much in evil
dence
That Paris and New York are to be at
odds on the subject of autumn and
winter clothing, was amply evident
when the few French creations made
81
short skirts and intense indivdualsm
that contrasted oddly with the less
radical American models. Quantities of
frills and furbelows, odd lines and
bizarre effects bore the tag of the
great French houses, while New York
creators emphasized richness of ma
terial and simplicity of line.
American designers showed uni
formity as to the length of the skirt
neither as long as it was all sum-
mer nor as short as last year. All the
models. except sport clothes. were ankle
length, and, IN some instances, draped
unevenly at the foot.
Slim Silhouette Pronounced
The slim silhouette appeared to be
more pronounced than ever, and the
Hat-chested, corsetless effect was al
most iTsvariable. The long waist1ine
and Russian blouse effect were seen in
iall suits and evening gowns The cape
and dolman seemed to be largely sup
planted BY the coat with raglan sleeves
and the "coatee," cross between
wide, old-fashioned jacket and a short
cape
There was surprising inconsistency
in the fur coats exhibited by different
houses They ranged from abbreviated
tur jackets 70 ankle-length wraps. Al
mos without exception they had ex-
tremely wide cuffs of contrasting fur.
and high collars obscuring the lower
part OF the face
7assels. fringes. braid and odd but
tons appeared to be the popular trim
mings, with bead garnitures Of various
kinds Coarse woollen fabrics WED
with the softer velve.s for popularity.
Embroidery was used 10 limited ex-
we're frequently startling, and there
we're several cerise toilettes that
rather took the breath of the spec
tators- One, in particular, revealed
the entire back
Chldren's clothes were displayed on
fetching little rnannequins half a
dozen years old or So
The prizes were awarded as follows:
Class William Fischman- wrap Of
teraul trimmed wi til squirrel fur-
Class NO entries
Class Bruno Gumprich e. Co, coat
Of kerari trimmed with taupe; Michael
Bros. coatee Of keraani squirrel fur
Class Gree nbeg e. Bros. coat OF
black plush trimmed with beaver;
Philip Klein & Bro. suit trimmed with
unimak.
Class 5-M. JatFe & Co.. ooatee OF
usleava trimmed with beaver; honor-
Hinaes. coat Of Hudson Bay seal
trimmed with MOLE fur.
Class -Mezsutits!ky & Stollerman,
coat Of velour trimmed with opossum-
Class. IN ezsuitsky & Stollerznam,
coat q chiffon velve-s trimmed with
beaver, honorable mention. Fidelity
Cloak Con pany, wrap Of kerami
trimmed With skunk
Glass S-Elnegrad < Kaye. coatee OF
chillna.
Class . H. Sssareue1s & Sons. evening