Evening star., 1919-05-11

brow, the high, careless coiffure of the
directoire victims who escaped the
guillotine, and the smooth Grecian
one, with it's Psyche knot in the mid
die of the back.
There is no attempt to bring back
Victorian coiffures with Victorian hats.
So far, false hair is utterly worthless.
Curls and pompadours, large braids
and loops have no place in the mod
ern scheme of things.
No doubt we will adopt this manner
of making ourselves more gay and
conspicuous for the evening, because
it seems certain that this ornate head
dressing will be one of the fashions
of the hour although our summer life
does not call for brilliant attire, as it
does in Europe. However, all fashions
creep slowly into wide acceptance, and
1T is probable that this idea of adorn-
ing the head may not have a strong
grip on the public until early autumn.
There is one thing-and it is impor-
tnat-that the average woman should
guard against when she puts things
into her hair. 1t is that they do not
clash against her gown. That does not
mean the color of the gown nor espe-
A@' ii"sSi buI lto ~ pc, ItS
style, it's period. For insance, one
should not wear Grecian bandeaux
with Babylonian frock, nor the shell
laced Japanese coiffure with a f1ounced
black tulle and jet frock, nor turban
of gold which has colored feathers
or an ornament of jewels with a SIM
pie muslin evening frock. 1t takes
study to match ones coiffure to the
Of
failure if one neglects this subject.
X X X X
There are more headdreSses in fash
ion at the present moment than there
are frocks, if one glances over the
sketches that come from Paris and the
things that are seen in fashionable
American society, SO it should be COM
paratively easy to avoid mixing peri
DDS and races and countries in hope
less confusion.
Probably the bandeau, with it's up
standing ostrich feather, it's paradise
or osprey, is neutral ornament for
the hair. for it does not clash with any
kind of frock. When one adopts three
bandeaux then one gets into the
Grecian style, and the gown must cor
respond. The Japanese coiffure is linn
ited to very few types Of costume,
but it is receiving an immense i'm
petus toward success in both Europe
and America.
Do not let the mind leap to a con-
glomeration of fans and dangling or
naments with huge pillows over the
ears when thinking of the Japanese
coiffure. The effort of smart women
who adopt it is to see that the hair is
highly brilliantined so that it appears
vanished: that it goes sleekly back
from the forehead, and has a decided
point in front which is put there by
art, If nature has failed to imprint 1t
on the physiogomy. Some people are
borne with this touch of beauty, but
they are very few, and those who are
clever in the art of making up have
learned to pull the hair slightly down.
ward with brilliantined comb and
accentuate the point by shadowy
crayon work.
put on the hair for the evening. The
Japanese coiffure means nothing in the
day, because we continue to wear our
hats on level with the eyebrows. 1t
is not an impossibility to get hold of
ah tSihooi louSC SO"HS OF evening
gowns that go with the Japanese ,oif-
fure, for the Paris and American de-
signers drew much of their inspiration
from Japan when they created this
seasons output Of clothes. The figured
brocades, the immense sashes, the but
terfiy bow at the back. the three
quarter open sleeve, the drawing up
ward Of the skirt from the end of the
spine to the front of the waist, are
each and all Japanese features. When
these are incorporated into frock the
touch Of a Japanese coffure makes the
resemblance perfect.
1t is not probable that we Of this
country will begin to paint our eyes
in an obliQue line. as women are doing
abroad, in order to make the facial ex-
preston correspond to the costume
and the coiffure, but it Is rather in
teresting to know that 1t is being
done.
Ingenuity has had a wide fling in
headdresses. This is evident from the
absence of commonplace ideas. What
ever Is traditional has been omitted.
Even the turban Of cloth-of gold,
which has been lifted from the battle
fields that lie below the Mediterranean,
has an immense plume that falls over
the shoulder to the bust. instead Of
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