davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22

In fact, we h IA We
grea t ly enlarged the
Dress Store in order to
properly display this un-
precedented collection
of Dresses, and have in
creased the number and
size of our fitting rooms
to take care of the in
creased number of fit
tings which we knew
would follow the inau-
gurat ion of this
GREATER ID r E S S
STORE.
Dresses for treet
wear range in price from
S1S.75 to $3.50.
Dresses for afternoon
wear are $500 to S225.
Strawbridge & Clothier-
Second Floor. Ma rket Strest
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22
Mackinaw Coats

OF warm wooden materials in
rich dark patterns; with large
convertible collar; sizes s to 13
yesrs-$l2.50, $l4.50 and $16.5Q;
sizes IA to 18 years-$14.50.
$3.50 and $3.50.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22
Suits-S25.00 and $3.50

Handsome Suits from Hart
Schaffner & Marx and other good
manufacturers - also the new
"Leatherized Suits" New plated
and waist-seam styles, faultlessly
tailored. Sizes to Is years.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22
Large Bows OYercOats

For boys of to II years
Dark Cheviot Overcoats, $3.50,
$500 and $500. OF other hand
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22
Suits-S15.O0 and $500

Of durable mixed cheviots;
with full-lined Knickerbockers-
some having reinforced seat and
knees. Sizes 7 to II years.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-22
Suits-S2O.OO and S22.50

A wide variety of handsome
wool fabrics, including the desir-
able mixed cheviots and blue
serges. Sizes 7 to Il years.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23
DIRECTOIRE MODES REGAINING
MUCH OF THEIR OLD VOGUE

may be relieved in apparel this season.
The thing is to copy the silhouette,
adopt the materials, revive the coiffure
and then see how attractive and
artistic we can make ourselves look.
Both of these qualities lie in the
clothes of this period, for licentious
though the women of the Directoire
were, they went to the best inspiration
in the world for their apparel, which
was a mixture of Greece and Rome.
The short waist was only one fea-
ture of Dlrectoire styles, and it was
really made dominant by Josephine
when she became the Empress of the
French. The very short sleeves, the
bare arms and shoulders, the short
hair and the long scarf of tissue or
cashmere, were significant features
that it would hurt no woman to adopt
to-day.
There were also Eastern draperies
suggested by Napoleon's Egyptian
wars, and these are all returned to
fashion this season.
The usage of fur as an addition to
tissue, muslin and chiffon is another
Directoire style which is revived
The redingote is a part of the Direc-
toire, and an important feature of it is
the long tight skirt which was intro
duced here last year and will be a pro-
norr@ i faslreeP N Paris, so we are
told, in March The low heeled slim
/ pels tied around the ankle with satin
ribbons are struggling to come back
, into fashion, and they go extremely
we'll with a long, clinging skirt that
brushes over the instep.
Long, Tight sleeves for Street.
| The long tight sleeves for street cos
tunes are an inspiration from the Di-
rectoire, ana the narrow girdle that
| goes about the high waist line. ties in
front and is finished with ornaments of
metal is another fashion from that
| day. The straight neck line which Eoe!
across the chest under the collarbone
and is edged with an Egyptian design
| in gold or silver is also returned tc
! fashion, and the combination Napo.
! leonic cap, which was worn to the the.
atre by smart French women, is again
| N evidence.
! The incoming of yellow as a leading
| color for evening, for sports and fol
I the street is not solely due to the
strong Eastern influence which will
prevail in spring Costumery, but is par
Of the whole movement toward the Dl,
rcctoire. Yellow, with empire green
ruled costvmery during a certain par
of that period in Paris,
| Green, rs you mag remember. wa
prohibited under the Reign of Torro
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

jority Of good colors, and in beige and
biscuit 1t still flows along at high tide.
1t is felt, more than said, that satin
may have had its day as spring
fabric. There is a strong tendency
away from 1t. just as there is from
serge. No one who dabbles among
clothes can fail to notice this avoid
ance of the two fabrics in orders for
new frocks. Satin is still good for
evening, but it is draped with chiffon
or tulle. When brilliant colors are
used. as in one Of the new gowns
named after Gen. Pershing, American
Beauty red satin is yelled in an Orien-
tai manner with long festoons of
mauve chiffon, each corner weighted
with an amethyst necklace that drops
to the knees in front, outlines the
sharply cut decolletage over the Shout
ders. and drops in two straight lines
below the waist at the back, each end
finished with tassel Of the amethyst.
This permits the GENERALIZATION of a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

T T is not surprising that the great
designers find their imaginations
leaping toward a recrudescence
OF Directoire styles. There is much in
the present epoch Of the worlds his
tory to remind every one of what hap
pened little over one hundred years
ago, when Europe was rent with war,
revolution, the overthrow Of autoc
racy, the uprising of the people and
the call for democracy.
The clothes of the Directoire there
fore present themselves to the Paris
and American designers as somewhat
fitting for this era We are normally
at peace, but most of us have the feel
ing OF resting rather uncomfortably on
the lid Of a steam boiler, not sure
whether We will get to port safely.
In the Directoire days there was
one distinct thought that ran through
apparel, which was to present SIM
plicity as a vital and sarcastic offset
to the extreme frivolity of a previous
monarchical reign. The women who
despised Marie Antoinette were the
ones who led the fashions into indie
cency, in order that they might pre-
sent a contrast to the extraordinary
frills and furbelows, Powered sarlands,
4.96p skires~s towering heatE, sses.
powder and perfume that were sup,
posed to have brought France to revo-
luton and those expensive heads to
the guillotine.
To the average mind the Directoire
simply means striped materials, waist
coats, cutaway coats with paddle tails
at the back. and long, tight skirts, To
the student of history, it means a
Kaleidoscope change in apparel. His
torians say that during this epoch the
fashion of Monday was often old by
| Tuesday; that the queens Of the Dircc-
toire WED with each other in eXtraor-
binary eccentricity at the opera one
night. and then launched new fash
ion the succeeding night. Who, under
these circumstances, could possibly
keep up with the string of styles?
Directoire Mode Is Various
II the designers want to follow the
Directoire, they have a hundred meth
DDS Of expressing themselves in the
fabric. The primal idea is simplicity,
the second is the adaptation of Grecian
classic draperies, and the third is the
| clinging line that reveals the human
figure. Simply remember the clothes
worn at the court of Louis XVI, and
1t requires no imagination to see the
difference between the two periods OF
dress.
| That the women of the Directoire
went far. too far, in their direction OF
the court clothes, is a we'll known piece
Of history. 1t is not necessary to re
produce the clothes worn by Josephine
and Nine. Tallien after they came out
of prison, in order that the DirectoirC
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

actress of that time was the one who
really made yellow the prevailing "olor
or civilized Europe. Historians say
that she was asked by great manu-
Idcturer at Lyons to make a gown or,
Iof some wonderful yellow velvet that
he had woven in his mills. Against her
best convictions she had the cow
made up for her and wore It the nigh
she was to play with Talma she
nearly broke down before the curtain
went up because she felt that she
looked like a huge animated cauary.
Talma, who happened to see her q
this moment, vented all his enthusiasm
over the glory of her yellow gown.
Ten days afterward ii was the fashion
able color of France, which meant Of
/ the world.
The end of the pretty story is tia,
years afterward, when this French
actress came TO Lyons. she was enter
tanned in n magnificent mansion .
the manufacturer who told her ,1a'
she had rescued him from poverty '"
wearing the yellow gown and that Ge
had purchased this estate with the ll7-
tune made out of that one material IN
that color.
The revival Of paillettes today =
| also taken from the Directoirc. Nine
| Hamelir, whs~k : one Of The ~. -.
pulsive and brilliant leaders Ct fas...n
! had sparkling paillettes on every 4g'-
Gle she wore; and muslin in IT. l..-'
weave has been brought out for 'f"
| Riviera and for Palm Beach pru.H v
! because the French designers r,.. n-
her the story of Nine Talljeu ~E'
spent a small fortune on "A s.wn'
muslin gown to wear at one a. ..r
great receptions
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

best to come in ahead of the others on
the racetrack of fashions. The Ameri-
can mills have turned out this French
product with more or less success.
There is the drop stitch kind, another
weave that has a thick and a thin
square. and still another that has a
twisted and a PLAIN contrasting de-
sign. The heavy plain weave is still
preferred by exclusive women.
This fabric appears in the guise of
an evening gown, not for formal oc-
casions. 1t is true. but for dinner at a
restaurant and the theatre afterward.
1t is handled by the dressmakers in
the same way as satin. 1t has long
lace sleeves. sometimes n hip scarf of
Spanish lace with a deep pendant
panel in front: again, it has an upper
bodice of white chiffon with square
Spanish sleeves to match. 1t is used
for coat suits and offers itself as a
rival to Shantung. for 1t does not
wrinkle easily. 1t comes in the ma
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

come back to fashion. but they need
not be twisted and turned into COM
pick and expensive frocks unless the
wearer so desires. Many Of them are
made up like muslins. The introduc-
ton of the immense and ornamental
sash which Is reminiscent Of a leading
fashion Of thirty years ago gives one
a chance to create a simple gown and
then bring it into prominence by the
addition OF this new ribbon which sur
passes all that has gone before. Women
who can find good looking cotton and
muslin fabrics at a moderate price will
gladly use them.
The fact that Doucet of Paris created
a demand for unbleached muslin which
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

Muslins and Silk
Jerseys Coming in
Strongly, While
Covert Cloth
Promise S to Be
Popular, Being
Out a Gen GRAFTON

gown, which is the dear desire of dress
makers.
AS for serge, exactly what the public
has against 1t one cannot find out.
Perhaps it is just weary of it and
wants something that does not suggest
the sonbre. conservative clothes or
war days. There is a very soft cloth
that looks like serge which tho tailors
are using for coat suits but even with
the model as ordered women choose
another material. They do not want
even a semblance of serge.
Homespun, cheviot and the other re-
liable fabrics that were often ushered
in with early spring clothes are lack
ing to-day. One sees certain type OF
cheviot used in a Scotch plain which
is made with knife pleated edges or
trimmed with stripes OF the material
slashed into fringe. The very smart
young women will take up these
Scotch fashions. but they should not
be touched by those who should look
sedate, even If they do not feel so.
Covert Cloth Returns
1t might be claimed that the leading
fabric for coat suits and even frocks
Is covert cloth. 1t came into fashion
through it's usage at Thanksgiving by
a few very smart women in New York,
and the same houses that introduced It
| then have put it forth as a novelty for
early spring.
The American people know covert
cloth quite well. They had much to
| do with it during a preceding genera
| ton Its tone to-day is not as muddy
and brown as then: there is a spark
| ling touch Of tan about 1t which makes
it quite becoming. Coat suits made of
it, the new ones that are trailing along
in genial climates, worn by women
bent on amusing themselves. have the
surface tucked in squares or lattice
work, according to an ancient and
honorable trick Of ornamentation. The
coats of these suits are left open after
the fastening of three or four buttons
at the neck; this is to show a frilled
blouse, usually in pale color.
BY the way, these frlled paste,
colored muslin blouses may be the
forerunners of wide revival of colored
muslin frocks. No one has the monoy
or the inclination to indulge in the
very ornate lingerie gown with It's
complex embroidery. but this is Just
the psychological summer to introduce
simple, colored muslins with immenso
sashes. if we can get them entireIy
different from those too universal or.
CANDY gowns of last summer, with the
tiny ruffles on the skirt and the i'm
mense white handkerchief hchu.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

sometimes has a color scheme painted
on 1t has brought this fabric into an
interesting position among smart
women who like gowns Of 1t trimmed
with colored cotton threads. I'm
bleached muslin is no longer cheap.
and one need not have the feeling OF
being n common garden vegetable in
such apparel. 1t now has prestige be-
cause it has price and because it Is
unusual.
No summary OF the fabrics that are
to flash forth after the frost Is over is
genuinely good unless one brings in
Jersey. The worsted weave of this
fabric is still used, but the heavy silk
weave, plain or fanciful, is doing its
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-02-23

Chinese crepe and silk. our own mar
kets supply our own needs.
The French designers inaugurated
taffeta as far back as December. and
the American importers offered South
ern frocks Of this material the first of
January, but 1t was a taffeta that was
a close rival to satin, even thinner and
more comfortable for warm days.
When the American women attempt
the fashionable draping Of the hour
with taTeta that Is not eXquisitely
supple it may be that the fabric will
have a setback. leaving the way clear
for Shantung. Chinese crepe and fou-
lard.
These are the materials that will
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
Little Robbie and His Pa
Br WILLIAM l.. KIRK

Each one D OF us skolars had to
r rt'e a al. artik e., abou, Crate Inventor.
VINO Shud rite about.
Rite about Chris Columbo. scd ia.
the old ;;cczer. which got the FIRST
S"SH slant At the crth. sed Pa.
Ing ,onitc.. sed Ma. DO not use so much
S'anS III front OF our child
found out that we didon, live ON Il Nat
wurld. but on Il round one lie rotc n
poem poe" for the weekly paper in his hoam
Min" ms world Of ours seems Nat.
ESpcshully when Ne are broke.
This. wurld IS round " that's no
SO. paste this truth inside yure hat.
\, He newer rotc any such rubbish. sed
Take i; from me. sed Pa. that is jest
what he iote. | red it in Il Old book
hrSt $4,000 u yccr. scd Pa
Are YOU going 10 talk sense To Bob
bic. & help him with his essay. scd
Ma o. must | help him?
! VIII help him. Sod Pa. have
jest told him .hc naim of a sratr in
vcntor. old Chris Columbo. If he w,ni,
another naim, scd IA. i viii invent t
| sucs yon cud, sod Ma. but stick
WSu, sed Pa. anothcr crate in
tho pinleSs cloSclinc. scd Pa. lie had
II al worked out. Scd Pa. but he did.nt
,hhoW u: bc"inS dccspondcnt he
hanged hisSclw with the vary rope that
Wud nave made him rich x famous. Sod
- i""r man; every time hccr the
mann Eoof | feel like crying.
doant blaim YOU. Scd Ma Goof 10
a sad naim. 10 be sure. But if Won
ar" S1ins TO he foolish all the ecvning
, Hnaii nave TO tell Bobbic about sum
Slt't lhNcnShunS One crate inventor
sea MA. was Walt Whitman the invcu,
'oT OF cotton gin sed Ma.
wiz, Ia SEQ "a that mans najnn was
Whitney; Wait Whitman was n verse
mnanuiacktcr, sed Pa. e he puts cvcry
tE| nr ~, II, e%cep the cute little jimgcis
popular hits. Rut he was :, wiso "a
gink' sed Pa. The cotton Gin. sod Pa
w" w q EradS nvenshun. but I suppoas
country mas went dry. Sod Pa.
hoopie. scd Ma. yurc fathcr is ,
Elte inventor. too, invcntins moar
Sod Ma. ''''" iNilS'
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
The Rhyming O,,timis
by AI.INE MICIiAE,.Is.

Don't weep and wall and cry. -.
fail! The surest thing OF an. If ,bo
the way you greet the day. Is thai Vol,
have fall. An awful lot of f,iIur
not the taking OF Il loss. nor does 81,
cess just wholly stress the leoi 90
put across. I've often seen II ,,o
not mean so much the winning H.,
as how you greet Old Man Defeat .,
where YOU take Your stand Some y,
I've met who never yet have l1no,
when they were down; they pct, nlo
with SIN. L. and song in spite OF f.,
tunes frown. And there are cha
with merry maps all wreathcd aha
with Grins who do not swear and I'd
their hair each time they bump thI
shins. Though it would seem tina, eve
scheme they have for coping cash
sure to w.n a lodging In the ragina,
cart OF trash: though oft It's look
like they were booked to wind up
Il frost in some retreat where thin
TO eat are furnished free of cost.
they rcpinc and likewise whine n
cause they made no splash? I'll 81,
Nay, nay they grin away above tn
frugal hash. Success is not III vii
you've got. to lose is not to rail; 4
all the way YOU face tho fray and Ind
you hit the trail.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20

X. {. Il. FarmNillc.-A photograph is
a pad composed OF gelatin and Glyccr-
inc. aud used for making many i'm
prcssiouS of writing or drawing This
pad IL mad" in the proportions OF one
ounce OF gelatin To six and onc-hal I
ounces of E!Yccrine. These TWO inrrcdi-
cntS should he allowed to mix by heat
ing slowly for u number OF hours over
q vessel filled with hot salt water
When thoroughly melted the mixture il
poured into u long. shallow pan and
allowed 10 harden, when il will pre-
sent an even. smooth surface. \ Spe-
cial copNinS ink is needed. which can
be purchased at a stationery store. The
matter 10 be copied is written and
placed face downward on the pad: after
a snort period the imprint of the writ :
inG VIII be transferred to the pad.
ABOUT 100 copies may be made ny plac-
ing blank paper over the tracinrs on
the pad and gently rubbing to effect
4 transfer OF the Impression. The cost
IS little II made 1t homo. for /, in.
INC, gelatin and COpyinC ink
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
SCREEN BREVITIES

Md there Is George Meliord. master
uirtccior in the field Of large scale
panoramic pictures requiring the
nandIinG OF large bodies of principal
ana extras and lavish scenic effect y
lilS most recent work is the screen
version OF Walter Brownies Every
woman, in which Violet fleming is
Starred. In 1t he has proved his eff
hclehcE IN this particular line of
cinema work even more strikinclv
IMAM ever before. The almost limit
less possibilities for scenic effects. for
hlrouucihS great groups OF players
for elaborate paEcantry he has renl-
iHcd ana carried TO actually with a
tine hand
The development of the producer
who Is a specialist is another step in
It' ,nciteTincnt OF the motion picture.
Producing organizations arc todav
ohoOslng the producer for a ccrtnin
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
With the Film Folks
STORIES OF SCREEN ACrons
Fntty Di.cns.es Inzz.

w nile my personal tastcs,, CT,
~, n..E Nrbucklc. recently, arc all for
INC "a Classics. and seldom care TO listen
tnlhs else, | must admit that
80 SEEMS 10 be demand for tho
Jn%z variety Of melody these DAYS. =,
SENS 10 he an outlet. so 10 spnll.
49,, valve. one might call it, It's
,u.'"E now Jazz music seems 10 incul
vatc spirit of abandonment i'm those
no near IT. only hav. to start !,
80 orchestra on a set and the mos
Scudte members of the compan,. ,riI,
lance or otherwise disport thcmsnIvns
ex I'm freedom that they would never
am OF the opinion that IL is =
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20

!! nearly. but not quite. all dissolved
men add ono ounce of alcohol and suf-
nclent water to make twelve ounces.
NOW. to silver Your glass. take equal
PARTS OF y and Il. mixing them thor
oughly III = dish a litte larger than
me glass, and lay the latter face down
on the top OF the mixture. while wet.
aitcr II has been carefully cleaned
with soda and we'll rinscd with cold
water about two drains of each solu-
ton will silver plate TWO inches
square. DO not use the solutions ur-
III they have stood and settled for
two or three days: They Will keen
good Tor 4 Ions. time
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
Recipe for Curing Hams

o. u w. NtersDurG-I'icklc 20
y .unrt :iainS is composed Of one and
aluinh salt is best: one-half ounce salt.
peter: one pint molasscs or one pound
prp"n sugar; one teaspoon Salcratus
Add these to ono gallon of wntcr - w.,
increase the amount in the same pro.
npoTliohs TO make the quantity desired
nrinE me Iiquor to 4 boil. Swimming
pour oEcr IN" meat until entirely coy
cred. Pack meat in clean. tight casks.
anu ict stand sin or seven weeks when
!. -" nc NJ 10 smoke. Green hickory
Wood Is the best article for this ptlr-
p"sc' This pickle is good for corncd
nc.i' nacon or any leRn meat for dry
lnS. 10 make lard. cut tho fat M, in
pieces Two inches square Fiji a YES
SCI holding about three gallons with
pieces. put IN pint OF boiled Iyo
strained before using. boil gently Over
a SLOW IRE until the cracklinrS nave
surneu brown, strain and set aside ia
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
Weeks Picture Shows
OFFERINGS At Local HOUSES


Those iMIcrrSlod IN tNc study o.
what's what i'm Interior decoration will
find muCn 10 think about at THE Biiou
Thratcr today when Eugene c'liricn's
third SolzniCk picture. The iiroker
Nelody," * shown. Myron SclzniCk
e.. no must have THINGS done the right
Nvdy. summoned from the Hampton
shops OF New York -litfcl l.. Carol!
1.ottiNer a decorator Of much prestige
In London and Paris also. MIR. lcottlmcr
WAS sivon fun change OF the signing
OF all tho sc;s and especially were the
scenes of Mrs. Trasks houdoir and an
elaborate Italian living-room made
,,llis-fC
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20

Willard Louis paws one OF the Lead
;urc, The Loves OF Lc;ty" Sta-rina.
l'sulno Frederick at the Colonial
again today. NJ. Louis is ono OF the
everest and most versatile comedians
Sary comedy relief to balance the stars
great emotional scenes. Mr. Louis has
played with William I'arnum for the
past two years, and is we'll known
among screen fans. AS it happens. he
was member OF Pauline Frederic IS
company some years ago. when both
were cast in a clever and suCccssfuI
farce entitled "Don't shoot
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
"Rookie" Makes W-i,d Rc,

me millions of young Americans u,o
went through the mill of training-canp
re VIII appreciate the audaciousncss
-. one sergeant Gray, in .Twcntv
shEce and Half Hours Leave" tha
P pn, Ire at the Victor, this week, who
X ms paIs he would breakfast win
spl!t bran muffin with him. WA,
, ,h!e success all the more dubious was
IA! nc SarGe' and the c. O. Were
bulldogs strange
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-12-20
When bicycle. Were po,,,,r

H. - r., EaStvillc.--Bicyclinc bc ra,
20 % popular about 1891 and tho
ctaAc reached its height about 1895.
IN price to be within the means Of
inc multitude. From that year thcir.
nsc gradually lcssencd until about
80 after which few were seen for
several years, the Introduction OF mo
antomohile and its gradual decrease
IN price enabling many former do
voices or bicycling to take up tho
safety bicycles was put on tho 49,
kct in 1850. In this the high from,
wheel was reduced and the rear
WheGi was about two-thirds the height
OF IN" front one. The machine with
wheels of tho same size appeared in