Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1919-08-22
THE HOUSEWIFE AND HER BUSINESS
Especial Information U.
Stains Not Tragedies If You
Know How to Remove Them
a
to Use
for Stain

"The first time have worn it and
look at that spot"
Everyone is familiar with that re-
mark, made in an anguished tone of
voice. The tragedy of spelling a new
garment, however, is eliminated if
the unfortunate one knows what rem
edy to apply for that particular kind
of stain.
The removal of stains is neces-
sary feature of the laundering and
general care of clothing and other
household textiles. Nearly all stains
may be removed easily at home if
reliable methods are known.
| One of the most important factors
is to apply the stain remover while
the stain is still fresh. Drying, ex-
posture to air, washing and ironing,
all make it harder to remove the
stain. The nature of the stain
should be known if possible before
its removal is attempted, since this
determines the treatment to be adopt
ed An unsuitable stain remover
may "set" the stains so its removal
becomes difficult or even impossible.
Treatment Depends on Fabric.
The kind of fabric on which the
stain occurs also should be known,
for the method of treatment depends
much on the nature, color, weave,
finish, and weight of the fabric. Do
not use strong acids on cotton, and
even diluted ones should be neutral
ICED afterwards with suitable alkali.
Care also should be taken in the use
of the alkali, as it weakens the
fabric
After any reagent rinse the fabric
we'll. Do not use very hot water on
wool or silk. Rubbing also must be
avoided with these fabrics. Both
wool and silk are dissolved by strong
alkalis: borax or a weak solution of
ammonia is more suitable. Acids,
with the exception of nitric, do not
attack silk and wool readily.
With colored materials avoid use
of o bleaching agent which will de-
stroy the color of the material. Be-
cause of this it is much more diff
cult to remove stains from colored
material than from white.
Common Stains, How to Remove
Them.
Blood and meat juice.-Use cold
water; soap and water; or starch
paste.
Bluing-Use boiling water.
Chocolate and cocoa.--Use borax
and cold water; bleach if necessary.
Coffee and tea (clear) Use boil
ing water; bleach if necessary.
Coffee and tea with cream) -
Use cold water, then boiling water;
bleach if necessary.
Cream and milk.-Use cold water,
then soap and cold water.
Egg.-Use cold water.
Fruit and fruit juices.-Use boil
ing water: bleach if necessary.
Grass.-Use cold water; soap and
cold water; alcohol; or bleaching
agent.
Grease and oils.-Use French
chalk. blotting paper, or other ap-
sorbent: or warm water and soap;
or gasoline, benzine, or carbon tetra-
chloride.
Iodine.-Use warm water and
soap; alcohol or ammonia.
Ink-Try cold water; then use an
acid or bleach If necessary.
Iron.-Use oXalic acid; hydrochlo-
rio acid; salts of lemon; or lemon
juice and salt.
Kerosene warm water and
soap.
Lampblack and soot.--Use kero-
sene. benzine. chloroform, ether. gas
oline, or carbon tetrachloride.
Mildew.---If fresh, use cold water;
otherwise try to bleach with Javelle
water or potassium permanganate.
Paint and varnish.--Use alcohol.
carbon tetrachloride. chloroform, or
turpentine.
Perspiration,--Use soap and warm
water: bleach in the sun or with
Javelle water or potassium perman-
ganate.
Pitch. tar. and wheel grease.-Rub
with fat; then use soap and warm
water; or benzne. gasoline, or car
bon tetrachloride.
Scorch. Bleach in the sunshine or
with Javelle water.
Shoe polish (black)-Use soap and
water; or turpentine
Shoe polish (tan) Use alcohol.