The broad ax., 1919-10-04
LATE STYLES IN
GOWNS AND HATS
Pannier Returns and Hoops
About Hips May Be Seen
Sleeves at Vanishing Point.
BLACK AND WHITE POPULAR
coIors Form FaVorite Combination at
French Resorts-stripes in Mar
row and Wide Arrangement
Skirts Are Very Short.

From all signs this will be a de-
cisive season in Paris in so far as
fashion creation is concerned. The de-
signers seem to have taken on their
old accustomed stride. They have
turned their efforts unTeservedly TO
leadership in the world Of style.
To aid them in this crucial moment
there are arriving from the United
States, from South America, and from
England hosts Of buyers and fashion
experts to watch the latest develop
ments. This is almost a new expert
ence. At least II is a revived expert
ence. for through the last five years
only the most favored Of buyers have
been allowed to cross the water and
only a few of the dressmakers have
kept ND their work with anything Ike
pre-war yigOr.
American women during the war
have developed a style all their own.
They are dressing now as suits the
climate and their life and their pur-
suits, which are quite different from
the French woman's. And one Sympa-
| thizes with the buyers, who wonder
whether their clients at home will re-
fuse to accept the wonderful things
brought over from France. If their
ewes are trained only for beauty they
will be dazzled into letting all their
accumulated notions Of dress go by
the board and the conservatives at
home will not be suited.
At this time of the year all OF
France, as all Of the rest Of the world
seeks a cool spot; and so it is at Deau-
Vile and the other resorts by the sea-
side that one looks upon the fashiOna-
bIy arrayei crowd of women and is
able to gain some idea Of the trend
of the times as regards dress. They
are wearing the very latest things
from a French point Of view, and, OF
course. the majority Of the fall fash
ions will follow in some respects the
lines favored just now.
Skirts Are Very Short
Well. the tendency is all in the d.
rection of the skirts that are shorter
than anything America has Hyer worn
or even dreamed about. You hear 1t
said that the Parisians are wearing
their skirts very long. but when you
see them with their skirts actually eX-
tending Just below their knees, so that
when their arms are raised the skirt
pulls above the knee, you know what a
short skirt really is. 1t is easy on ma
terial and is extremely good looking
when the fig re Of the wearer can
stand the strain. The skirts are tight
too. but what matters that when their
length is what it Is? No trouble about
taking a good, long step in dress OF
this character. Then the coats, wheI
II Is a suit. reach almost to the bot
tom of the skirts, leaving, in fact Onl!
about two or three inches Of the skirt
TO be seen. The coats are either strict
Iy tailored or they show a little full
ness about the hips. That tells a story
Of Forthcoming fullnesses Of ever
greater volume.
II is so with the dresses. Alway'
there is a slight gathering Of extr'
material where the hips join the waist
II Is the pannier that is greeting US OF
the broad highway Of fashion As ye
II Is not large enough nor full enOugl
q b alarming though there eEs ~