davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Waist Makers Building Up
AlI-Year-Round Industry
Sales for Present Season Are Running Ahead of
Any Other Period, With Foreign Buyers Active
in the Market-Late Easter Helps Trade

Manufacturers and retailers of wom-
business than at any other period in
the history of the waist industry in this
country. Never before his so much cap
ital been represented in the manufact-
uring end Of the industry, and at no
other time have retailers sold so many
waists over their counters.
These statements are made upon the
authority of S. A. Lerner, head of the
Lerner Waist Company and president
of the United Waist League of America,
nationwide organization Of waist
manufacturers. Mr.. Lerner's views on
the waist industry as whole are based
on careful analysis of the trade, both
from the manufacturing and retailing
ends, which he has just completed.
81 can definitely state" he said yes
terday, chat every shirt waist man in
the country did far more business last
month than he did during January of
last year. The February business is
gong along at the same pace and, judg-
ing from conditions as I have found
them IN the trade, business will be
above what we have hitherto considered
normal right up until the middle of
June.
Easter comes late this year, and that
will give us long spring season. With
export trade in the business increasing
by leaps and bounds there is every rea-
son why the waist industry soon should
reach point where it will be possible
to run the factories to full capacity all
the year round and eliminate the sea-
sonabe features of the trade"
How about prices ?" Mr.. Lerner was
asked
~ think that the present prices of
waists are to continue for some time
to come" he replied. II don't see how
f tI1t,y can either advance or decline.
Silk forms the great bulk of the raw
material used in the trade. While It
advanced some in price during the war,
the increase was not so great or so
sharp as was that in both the cotton
or woollen fabrics. We had to adj
vance our prices some to keep up with
the rise in the cost of raw material.
put the advances were gradual. Higher
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Change in Producing
Methods Suggested
Trade Editor Says Larger Out.
put Now Would Relieve
Future Pressure
Business News Burscs
Special Corresnonder..

BOSTON, Feb. 15.-The editor a,
"The American Wool and Cotton Re-.
porter" made the following statement
to The Tribune to-day:
"The war resulted in large profits
but it has also brought about manu-.
featuring problem not only in the
United States, but throughout TIA
world. Are the manufacturers placed
IN better or worse position for dis
cussing the situation with their en-
ployes? Not many manufacturers really
believe in cutting wages to-day. Tbey
merely want reasonable producing con.
dltlons to exist. They would like to
have better working conditions. Onlv
that machinery can be used which il
available, and the methods of produc.
ton must be those which are shown to
be economical and efficient through ex.
perience. The manufacturers do mn.
want to curtail production, but this is
necessary, since buyers are not Co.
operating.
Why cannot some practical solu.
ton OF the problems be reached? OF
course, nothing appears possible at
present except to let the lack of de-
mana run Its course, but afterward
the result is likely to be just as great
pressure Tor goods, or at least
pressure similar to that noted during
the war. A small and regular produc.
tlon at the present time would tend 10
reduce the pressure when more goods
are needed With lower prices and
general stability in manufacturing
conditions, manufacturers would have
been able to produce goods and TINS
save the situation somewhat The
pendulum is swinging altogether Too
lar. There is too much pressure for
goods at one time, with too high
prices, and TOO small demand at
other times, with too low prices.
This situation must be changed
put 1t ought not to be done by build
ing too many additional plants, since
these VIII only reduce the pressure
when the demand is the greatest and
Will cause unnecessary reductions in
wages when the production is over
large. 1t would be better for the tex.
We industry for some time to come
If there were no new building but
only replacement and Improvement in
the plants which ALREADY exist. Sta.
olllty can only be brought about BY
having q moderate production com.
prices Will stabilize during the period
prices will stabilize during che period
mat the demand is tapering down.
stocks will not be reduced or tiuctuats
10 such an extent if there's no great
overproduction. The employer and the
employe must cooperate more FULLY,
ana way must be found to do this,
otherwise the conditions in the indus
Try are not likelY TO be satisfactory
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Business Money

throughout last week the mercantile
paper market remained in its state Of
deadlock. The factors which bring this
about are numerous. Trade and in
dustry must borrow q certain minimum
amount to keep going, but this is all
that appears. When stocks run out
they are replenished, but only on a
hand-to mouth basis. Merchants hest
tate. They do net know what con-
ditlons must be met. Business has not
lead buyers to hold off; they do not
want to be left with raw materials on
their hands purchased at "high" prices.
They wait for the bottom to be reached
The country banks, whose CONNER
cial loans have dropped and whose
stock market loans are not great, find
an accumulation of funds pling on
their hands and arc anxious to lend.
The supply of commercial paper does
not satisfy their demand. and they will
Fay as low as per cent to get it. The
New York banks, on the other hand, are
placing a good deal of their funds into
the United States certificates of in
debtedness at 4 p per cent interest, and
are DESTROYS of keeping their funds
liquid for the coming loan A further
reason why they are not clamoring for
commercial paper is the recent rise in
call money rates on the Stock Ex-
change. The banks can lend here at
from 5 to per cent, and they are free
to call their loans in any day.
The packing companies were large
borrowers during the last week. There
was some borrowing by sugar COM
panies, and silk concerns are beginning
to enter the market Borrowing by
drygoods firms is at present very small.
Among the events of the week in the
acceptance market was the announce
ment of trade credits to Italy and Dem
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Furs
World Short Of Furs and
Must Conserve animals.
Trade Authority
Asserts

Scarcity of furs throughout the world
Is one OF the large factors which will
tend to keep prices of pelts up to their
present high levels, dealers say. Reports
of large accommodations of furs during
the war period are greatly exaggerated
according to George B. Herzig, New
York agent of Funston Bros. & Co..
St. Louis, Mo.
The lack of trappers and hunters
and the shortage of tanneries were in
strumental in preventing large accumu-
lations of Siberian SKINS" he said yes
terday. South America, from which
nutria furs are secured, has had only
small quantity available. Australia
has furnished q great many rabbit skins
however, but these have all been alb
sorbed in the market.
~ am in favor of more stringent
game laws. If those we now have are
not made more effective, we will soon
find the complete determination of
muskrats, which are now in such de-
mand. Beavers were practically wiped
out in Canada until the law was placed
on them for few years. Proper con-
servation laws, such as we have in New
York State on deer and skunk. are
helpful in breeding better animals for
fur purposes.
1.-The American catch of furs is now
in, since the game laws Of most states
prohibit trapping after March l. The
sales held recently in st. Louis and
New York were successful in disposing
of large quantities of furs at prices
greatly in excess of those held this wear
at London.
with the success Of the United States
as sales centre, shippers from Japan,
Siberia, South America, Australia and
other primary markets have found that
prices obtained were better than those
at London and Leipzig. This has helped
to establish the American fur industry
on iirmer footing.
AT the same time the United States
government is benehting by the sales
we are holding at ST. Louis. Last wear
over 1000 seals were sold for the in
terest OF the country, bringing in over
S3,00O,O0O. Sealskins are popular with
the women of the country because of
their great beauty and comparatively
small cost, as against the pelts i'm
ported from Europe
"a large business will come in from
Germany and Austria after the peace
terms are signed. These countries dur
ing the war period, it is believed, Sc
cnzed their furs through Holland and
the scandinavian countries We have
reason to expect their trade to come
directly to US, should we care to handle
their business.
There cannot be a drop in the costs
OF turs until surplus is evident. This
Will not take place until next October
al least, when the new catch comes in. u
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
CoIors
Textile Mills Using Larse
Quantities of Dyes
to RecoIor Left.
Ouer Khaki

Speculative accumulations ~ !, d.
stocks and such quantities Of ~ assa
rlc as have been rejected by tbs LAD ssO-
eminent are now being dyed CIV
shades for civilian use. A nn, ,J mic
textile mills which manufactns.s OF
great quantities of khaki ana ~
drab cloths in anticipation Of s so1 ullvs
ment needs also find themselvess' ' s!',
large stocks of these goods ON hans 'lta
their problem Is to dye these sso sla
into saleable colors. ''0eSS
Considerable serge of the kind -.
for officers uniforms has ALREADY s sssa
redyed into blue, green. brown ven zen
black and mixtures of various sbsS s.u
Cotton warp shirtings, nine. ouDs.
weight, have been recolored into t SSs.s
or more different shades. soma a ,I;y
and some mixtures. Olive drab wors,aa
warp, with wool filing, of twenty. nsseu
weight, is shown in oxford; bure r-1.s
navy blue, seal brown and hlacs "..
the same fabric has also been rea Sa!
into more than one hundred dee.
mixed shades. y u"
1t is understood that the covs,r
ment has decided to dispose ~ u,
khaki stocks abroad, and it is how,
among dye manufacturers and dyar,
that foreign purchasers will have ~
material redyed in this country befor,
sending it to foreign consumers.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Another Luxury Tax Protest

The Associated Dress Industries OF
America, national organization OF
dress manufacturers, has joined with
other trade organizations throughout
the country in protesting against the
luxury tax provision in the new reve-
nue. bill. Members of the organization
are now sending their petitions directly
to Washington.
The luxury tax provision was char
acterized as unfair in a statement is
sued yesterday by David N. Mosesohn
executive secretary of the association
He says the luxury tax would be q
burden on the retailers of the country
and that this naturally will affect man
ufacturing and jobbing.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Lace Making in China

Foreign missionaries in Chefoo,
Shanghai, Foochow. Annoy and Swatow
have introduced lace making among the
Chinese women, and considerable lace
has been exported from time to time.
Silk, linen and cotton threads are used
in Chefoo and linen and cotton in the
other places. The lace is made more
cheaply than is possible elsewhere be-
cause OF the low wages paid in China,
but a lack of enterprise in changing
patterns to meet changing tastes and
fashions abroad prevents the industry
from assuming larger proportions
Consular Report.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
More Demand for
Oils Used in Tanning

Sulphurated oils are in good demand
by the tanning industry, but orders
from textile mills which use this pro-
duct to large extent have dropped
off. The prospects for q general re-
vival Of activity are regarded as very
bright by some of the largest pro-
ducers.
South America, South Africa, Scandi-
navia, and Canada, when the tanning
industry is rapidly resuming business
to supply the civilian demand for shoes
and leather products, which has been
neglected for the past four years.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Corset Manufacturers to
Meet Here on Tuesday

Theodore Il. Burton, former U. S.
Senator from Ohio, and Charles d. Hur-
rey, who has just returned from Italy,
will speak at the annual banquet Of
the Corset Manufacturers Association
of the United States next Tuesday
night. The banquet will follow the an
nual meeting, which will be held at the
Hotel Aston, Tuesday afternoon.
Ii Is expected that about 200 manu-
facturers of corsetg will be present at
the meeting and banquet.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Color Card Proves Valuable
Buyers Can Match Goods More
Readily

The value of color standardizatio1 y
best illustrated by the benefit thai aS'
accrued to both producer and consume
as we'll as the retailer. in the way !. y
matching materials. The reductio" .ss
color ranges as brought about ny -. ~
standard and season color cards OF ~
Textile Color Card Association has pesS
most helpful in this respect. II Is nv
possible for the consumer to opss.s
exact matches in shades in stores us.S ~
the cards, which up to short time az
was almost impossible. ..x.
A few years ago some Of the big N !,
tile mil.s produced hundred shares . !.
navy blue whereas with color stanaS.si
ization three shades are now proousS..s
light, medium and dark. No ~' :; =
could carry hundred shades y h,us
fabric, but three standards OF nav, =, A.
shades can easily be carried ID az nm az
partments. This eliminates any CIV
fusion in matching samples.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Club Organized by Men
Who Sell Mems Apparel

The Mems Apparel Club of New
York State was organized yesterday
at luncheon held at the McAlpin Ho-
tel. Fifty wholesale mems apparel
statesmen signed the charter member
ship applications, and the following
temporary officers were elected: L N.
Schlff, chairman; A. S. Salisbury, vice
chairman. and Victor Hitler, secretary
and treasurer. A committee on by
laws and ways and means was selected,
consisting Of Messrs. Schiff, Salisbury,
M. L. Goldsmith, Albert c. Atlas, Gabe
Lang, Victor Hitler and W. j. Fishel.
The purposes Of the club are to form
friendlier feeling between the job
bing salesman and the retailer.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Chinese Rug Industry

The war lifted the Chinese rug in
dustry, with its centuries of indiffer-
ent activity, from position of OBJ
kets to a place of popularity and per-
manency principally because the sup
ply of Oriental rugs from Persia and
Turkey was cut off from the American
market at time when large accumu-
lations of wealth had increased the de-
mand. During the year 1917 China
exported nearly 100000 (gold) worth
of rugs.
During the past few years Shanghai
has been developing the rug industry
and hopes are entertained that with
better organization and with the use
of machinery standardized high
grade rug can be roduced-Consular
Report.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Hat Making in China

The manufacture OF hats in China,
according to consular report, is GER
tain to become an important industry.
With the cutting of the queue foreign
hats displaced the native styles. More
than 100000 rush hats are exported
each year from Ningpo to the United
States. A hat of good quality IS be-
ing made in Szechwan Of palm leaf
fibre. The extensive manufacture of
straw braid in Shantung will lead to
the manufacture of straw hats in that
section.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Japanese Raw Silk Easier

Raw silk in the Yokohama market is
lower in price, apparently because
American buying has subsidized. Chinese
markets have been steady for some
time past, but during the latter part
of the week quotations fell about 20
cents a pound for the best grade of
Canton raw silk Demand is limited.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
Americans i'm Mexico
Orgau;ze Commerce b0a'

Consul Wilbur t. Gracey re awsr-
from Monterey. Mexico, that an S hsen
lean chamber of commerce hsu the
organized at that place, and ..s, q
chamber hopes for the cooperssss ass.
ell such bodies in the United Sssss
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-02-16
- ------s--> - ------@-----
HOLIDAYS This Week

Monday~~ln French Indo- China.
Tucsday~~In French Indo- China.
Wedncsday-~In Greco and Ncwfound-
land.
The Powder River County examiner and the Broadus independent. [volume] (Broadus, Mont.) 1919-1935, 1919-06-14
SUMMER BRINGS LARGER HATS
Brighter Sunshine Causes Demand for
Broader Brims to Protect Face
and Eyes.

With the approach of late spring
anu early summer weather, the big hat
is coming actively into its own. The
first spring days demand that the
headgear selected shall be small and
rather close reefed to Withstand wind
and wectLer, and a hat of this type
is very smart with narrow straight
line tailored suit or frock. But big
hats are almost uniformly becoming,
and when late spring and summer
suns begin to shine, a spreading hat
brim is great protection to the eyes
and complexion.
When trimming is used on the spring
or summer chapeau, flowers usually
are first choice. All kinds of garden
flowers are lined up in the millinery
field this season. Hollyhocks, pop.
pies, bleeding hearts, violets, and
roses, of course, and lilies, including
those of the pond and Gala family
are approved. Ribbon flowers are
fashionable also, some Of the smart
est hats showing clusters of very real
looking asters, sunflowers. etc., made
of narrow ribbon in carefully selected
cOlors.
The Powder River County examiner and the Broadus independent. [volume] (Broadus, Mont.) 1919-1935, 1919-06-14
COULD NOT SEE INTO FUTURE
Men OF Genius Had Little Idea What
Their inventions Might Mean
to the World.

1t appears that it is not infrequent-
ly the case that great inventors do not
comprehend the significance of the
things they have produced. Here are
two examples:
When Hertz first began to obtain
satisfactory results from his now ia
nous researches into the possibility of
transmitting electric waves certain
men of science suggested that some
day similar vibrations might serve to
transmit messages through space.
Hertz laughed at the hypothesis and
assured - Corners that his expert
mentc re for laboratories only. Now,
afts . few short years, it is hard to
find Il single issue of daily newspa-
per that does not record some note
worthy example of the use of wireless
telegraphy.
Levassor was the great engineer
who sketched the automobile with
such skill that his design has not been
materially changed to this day. After
Levassor accomplished his historic
trip from Paris to Bordeaux and re-
The Powder River County examiner and the Broadus independent. [volume] (Broadus, Mont.) 1919-1935, 1919-06-14
THE CORRECT WAY TO SLEEP
Soft Beds Make FIabby Skin, ana
Large Pillows Injure Health
and Appearance.

No matter how comfortable soft
they are not healthful, and wOnex
especially would do well to avoiG
them, for they assist materially in in
juring their physical appearance.
states a writer in the Philadelphia
Inquirer. When the body sinks down
in soft bed considerable portion
Of the skin is robbed of it's proper
ventilation and the circulation is in
terfered with. 1t also helps to make
the muscles fiabby.
A hard bed will make the flesh
firmer, and the form must, therefore,
appear somewhat better as result.
The large pillows are not good to sleep
on because the head is too high when
it rests on them, and this prevents
that deep, regular breathing which
gives good lungs and in consequence
a better appearance to the bust and
shoulders.
One ought always to sleep on the
left side, and preferably with the arms
at the back. This may be little awk-
ward at first, but as soon as one be-
comes accustomed to it she will find
it not only the most restful and easy.
but the position in which sleep is more
easily induced. The pillow ought to.
of course, be small and the bed hard.
or at least firm. The body is then in
the correct position for sleeping and
for helping the physical appearance
of the person while at rest.
The arms at the back throw the
chest forward, make the shoulders
broader and the back straighter, SO
that material assistance toward Il
good carriage is thus obtained. When
one lies on the back, even though the
pillow is small, it has a tendency to
crook the shoulders, and many cases
Of stopped shoulders have probably
originated in that way.
The Powder River County examiner and the Broadus independent. [volume] (Broadus, Mont.) 1919-1935, 1919-06-14
FRINGE FOR THE BED SPREAD
Decoration That Is Pleasing and At
traetive May Easily Be Made by
NmbIe Fingers.

Some of the 'oveliest Of the new
spreads for the bed are of unbleached
muslin with inserts of handmade lace
or a touch of hand embroidery in
large bold patterns, knots, cross stitch
and the like. One may finish off these
spreads with wide hem, blanket
stitched or buttonholed edge and best
of all with handmade, crochetad
fringe. Now this may sound ambi-
tious, the making of enough fringe to
go around the whole spread except
the top, of course, and the bottom if
it is to be tucked into a wooden foot
board, but the fringe is simple. Start
with a favorite crocheted edge that
leaves an irregular edge of points,
scallops or open squares. After your
whole edge is crocheted, all you have
to do is to tie into every point, or into
three or five points in group as
many strands Of thread according to
the size and thickness of tassel you
want. If there is filet lace in your
spread, you will want a filet heading
for your fringe. If the embroidery
is dainty, make your heading series
Of lighter picoted interviewer loops
You can find patterns and directions
for such a heading in any crochet
book, and all you will have to do is
to knot your strands of fringe into the
most prominent loops or PORTS.
The Powder River County examiner and the Broadus independent. [volume] (Broadus, Mont.) 1919-1935, 1919-06-14
IDEAS IN BL0USES
Short Sleeves Appear in Many Of
the Summer Garments.
American Designers Reluctant to Ac-
cept Paris Recommendation for
Abbreviated Arm Covering.

Unquestionably this is a season Of
novel ideas in blouses. The ordinary,
Old-time suit blouse wins barely a
glance. OF course, suit blouses must
be had, because suits are being sold
in much greater numbers than suit de-
partment records have been able to
show for years. The suit blouse with
round waist length back and sides and
long apron panel front is one favorite.
Another Of the new blouse novelties
is the cossack, which is somewhat on
the order of the old-fashioned basque.
It is not & tightly fitted affair, but is
drawn softly across the figure In front
and at the sides and tied in the back.
Both plain and printed georgettes
are used for the apron models and
for warm weather wear sheer cotton
voile or fine handkerchief linen may
be used in the development Of a
blouse either of the cossack or apron
type.
There is no ironclad ruling in regard
to blouse length. The waist length
model is shown, like the one on the
cossack lines, and blouses appear with
hip length peplums, and long knee
length models, called costume blouses
continue to be approved.
Short sleeves, definitely approved by
French style designers this season, ap'