davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
ship BUILDING
COMPANY Will
TAXES
CLAIMS THAT AGREEMENT WAS
MADE NOT TO RAISE TAX AS
SESSMENT FOR TEN YEAR
PERIOD AND FAILED TO COM.
PLETE HOUSING PLAN.

The Pensacola Shipbuilding Co. will
protest against the county tax assess
ment which, it is understood has been
tentatively agreed upon at 100000.
On the grounds that a body of rep
resentative citizens gave a moral.
though not legal, pledge that the tax
able value would not be increased for
ten years and that the proposed hous-
ing plan, which the city had agreed to
put through for the benefit of ship
builders had gone by default, James
NJ. Sweeney, of the shipbuilding plant,
has protested the assessment before
the board of county commissioners.
The board has pleaded ignorance of
any moral obligation and action was
deferred until next Saturday morning.
At the meeting then the agreement.
drawn up by w. H. Watson, will he
presented and the matter threshed ont.
The company has spent $4,000 patch
ing up houses when the city failed in
it's obligation, Mr.. Sweeney said.
The fact that Immediately the gov
eminent contract is completed at the
plant, it will go on a private basis and
that any hardship worked upon the
company must necessarily retard in
dustrial growth here was put squarely
up to the board by Mr.. Sweeney If
the ships which are now rapidly being
launched had been completed a year
ago or even before the armistice was
signed the government would snap
them up it was argued. The company
is now in a quandary relative to the
attitude of the government, he said.
1t is only just now that the plant has
been able to see the light of day, Mr..
Sweeney pointed out. The extra bur-
den of taxation would only serve to
that when the government contract is
completed, the company will be great
" in the debt of the nation. Every
loaded obligation is making the task
much more difficult, Mr.. Sweeney said,
and leniency was asked.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21

The high school set will entertain
with a dance Wednesday night at the
San Carlos auditorium.
Mrs. Beulah Scherf has returned to
her home. Oak Lawn. at Brent. after
spending two months in New York
a. C. Reilly director of the Isis
theatre orchestra, has gone to New
York, where he will visit relatives.
Mr. j. A. Rickert, a prominent la
Dor leader of New Orleans, is visit
ing with his daughter. Mrs. II. H.
Burkett.
George Emmanuel. manager of the
Reynalds Music House, has returned
from Hot Springs, where he spent
a months vacation.
A general meeting of the woman's
Missionary Society will be held in
the parlors of the First Baptist church
at four o'clock this afternoon. All
members are urged to attend.
turned from New York. Baltimore.
Washington and Birmingham. In
Birmingham she was Joined by her
mother Mrs. z. b. Hoffman, who
has been guest of her son, F. l.. Hoff-
man.
The board of county commissioners
has been empowered to borrow $4,000
for the payment of construction of
the road from Millview to Lillian
bridge. Work has begun on the job
and will be completed within four
months.
Spelling of trousseau frocks by her
husband with Kerosene is sufficient
cause for a divorce. according to
Amelia Brown, who has filed suit in
the court of record against James
Brown. her husband. She further
charges that he beat her and pulled
her hair.
Repairs TO the East Pensacola
Heights bridge, spanning Bayou
Texar. will be commenced today. The
bridge will be put in good condition
by the beginning of the fall school
term when it will be in constant use
by students who will be transported
in one of the new trucks which the
board of public instruction will run.
Announcement of the resumption of
mail service between the United
States and Germany has been made
by the Pensacola postoffice When
war was declared with Germany all
mail service to that country was sus-
pendid. With the signing of the
peace terms restrictions have been
called off.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
You Don't Have to Live
i'm Florida

to wear Palm Beach Clothes any
more than you'd have to speak
French to wear Paris Carriers.
You can wear them in "Chi''
or on Broadway" and you fell
lows that intend living or visit
ing there, should see these sheer
air-breathing garments.
The idea of light weight
clothes for men is here to stay
and when you see these beauti-
full, well tailored Palm Beach
Suits you'll instantly agree that
the patent on such comfortable,
and becoming, garments should
never be allowed to run out.
Palm Beach Suits S16.50 and
$500.
Panama Hats.
Everything in the underwear
line to keep cool.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
Pre5criPtion-
CZ2Z3
Bone IaziIzx

functions. Those desiring more detail
ed information may communicate with
the manager of the wholesale merch-
ants and manufacturers bureau. Hotel
reservations will be made by the lu-
reau on request.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21

prerogatives of the position of state
health officer. DR. Cox. in his petit
ton to the supreme court. recited that
the attorney general had been re-
quested to institute this proceeding in
the name OF the state of Florida. but
that the attorney general had refused
to do it. 1t is understood that the
supreme courts recent advisory opin-
ion to the governor wherein 1t was
declared that the state health officer
is not an officer under the constitu-
ton had considerable influence upon
the courts decision today. DIR. Cox's
petition for a writ of quo warranto
was denied. DIR. Cox was represented
by j. G. Devant, of Brooksville.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
STARTS MONDAY
ON LONGEST
AIR JOURNEY

Washington, July Am airplane
flight around the rim of the United
States for a distance of 1906 miles
will be started from Washington
Monday by Lieut. Col. r. s. HART,
commanding officer of Boiling Field.
He will fly bombing plane in the in
terests of recruiting and route chart
ing. The itinerary includes Miami,
San Antonio, San Diego, Seattle, Du-
luth. Augusta, Names, and return
here.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
PROPAGANDISTS
MISLEADING
THE PUBLIC

Washington, July A campaign
by Hungarian, Austrian and Bulgarian
propagandists to miSlead American
public opinion as to conditions in the
Balkans, is charged in a cablegram
from Premier Koroshetz, of the king
dom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes,
made public tonight by that govern
ments bureau here.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
CITY NEWS BRIEFS.

= aaa asaaa saag gaa
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1919-07-21
SUPREME COURT
DENIES DIR. COX
QUO WARRANTO

The supreme court this morning de-
MED an application submitted by Dr.
William III. Cox. former state health
officer. for a visit of quo warranto t.
require DR.. Ralph n. Greene. the new
ly appointed state health officer. to
answer and disclose by what warrant
and authority he can claim to hold
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
lacked Of Velvet.
women.

Short. bOxiike jackets Of velvet or
satin. extending to the tip Of the hip.
and fastened with one button at the
neck. are seen In combination with
skirts Of white serge or Of white safin-
The broad ax., 1919-04-26

even under the conservation laws, was
within the price Of an average purse
at all times
II is not featured by France this
spring in a commonplace way. nor Is II
intended to be used for careless sport
clothes nor morning cOunt9 walks.
DOeuIllet has made the typical Ameri-
can gown. which means the kind that
sells over here by the hundred. pot the
dozen, Of navy blue silk jersey, en-
brOIdered In victory blue wool.
There Is a short, tight skirt and the
tunIc which falls In embroidered points
back and. front.
The sash breaks the straight line
Of the tunic. and II is evident that We
must pay especial attention to big
sashes. The string girdIes Of the last
four years are suddenly grown to rO-
bust proportion.
The sash. as the fashion feature.
shares honors with the straw braid.
The designers have gone back far into
history to get this suggestion for q
novel kind OF ornamentation.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
SOME NEW PARIS NOVELTIES
Chain of Beads Of Blue and Black
crochet-Hand-Kn Knitted White
Wool Caters.

Among the attractive chain novel;
ties shown In Paris was one which
reached far below the waist, made
Of large beads of bright blue and black
crochet, from which was suspended a
novelty cross In the two colOrs, says
WOmen's Wear.
Something rather chic in CATERS was
noted recently on a smartly dressed
girl, whose short skirts gave one
good view of hand-knitted white wool
gaIter. which pulled on over her shoe
and had the usual gaiter shape, with
the strap under. the shoe. They fitted
the ankle snugly and were very smart.
Women In America might cOnfine them
to motoring or to sport wear. al
though there Is no reason for so do
ing. Hand-knitters will be interested
to know that they were knitted with
the knit one row and purl back
method.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
Persian Effects Again.

Among the newest offerings In dress
trimmings are the Persian vestings'
which are now shown with silk and
metal thread effects. Judging from the
orders. they are meeting with much
success in the retail stores. Both the
large and small beaded tassels are
very popular. These are offered In
plain and fancy cOlors- For evening
wear. tricotine flowers In applique ef-
fects are being sold very extensively.
The volume Of orders received by firms
In this trade Is 50 large that In some
instances much difficulty is had In fill-
ing them.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
TAFFETA IN FAVOR
Fabric Serves for Both Day and
Evening Wear.
Dark coIors for Street Froek; Figured
Weave for Afternoon; Pastel
Shades for Might

Everyone knew that taffeta would be
accentuated as q fashion for the
spring. We have had remarkably
lovely gowns Of II since December.
France sends over a variety Of cos
tunes In this special kind Of silk,
which serve from ten o'clock In the
morning until twelve O'Clock at night,
says the New York Sun. In dark col
ors II makes a morning street frock |;
In figured weave II serves for the af-
ternOon, and in pastel shades It takes
its place for the evening.
II will probably usurp the place Of
satin, Of metallic cloths. Of rich col
Ored velvet for evening apparel Its
cOloration 10 superb. II takes all the
new shades with success.
Bullion lace. fantastic amazing rib
bOns, strands OF crystals and precious
lace are used to make IL more brilliant.
The supple weave that Is peculiar
ly French In combined with voile and
serge for one-piece frocks.
So far the Importations from Paris
have not exhibited any special stress
upon satin as the favored fabric.
There are gowns Of Il, here and there,
and Il Is used In combination with 9TH
er fabrics, but II remains a triie OBJ
scure. Tanfeta in Its new form Is an
aggressive fabric.
There Is no tendency on the part Of
Paris to diminish the prestige OF silk
jersey. 1t again appears as a fabric
for effective frocks, although the
Americans have used II In a common
place way for two years.
SIlk Jersey has never been cheap.
strange to say. whereas wool Jersey.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
TO REVIVE CROCHET STITCH
Handsome New Sweaters Are Being
Produced blythe Needles Which
Have Been Dormant.

Many Of the new sweaters are GRO
cheted. There has been an interim
when the crochet stitch has been de-
cidedly In abeyance and We were not
content unless we could handle knit
ting needles as well as the crochet
hook. But there are some charming
sweaters offered In the smart shops
50 II Is q safe venture to predict that
before very long we viii see the GRO
chet hook again in evidence.
The dolman is the garment you win
want to buy II you are looking for
general utility spring and summer. In
black satin or tricotine or In taupe
they are excellent. but for the woman
who Is not afraid Of q little color now
and then a better selection could not
be made than to buy one Of these
dOlmans In bright rose color. brilliant
drapeau blue. Italian green or deep
velvet.
The latest color. Is onion. Now,
what In your opinion would onion
color be? Would II be the light green
that you see In the delicate tops Of
spring onions or the purple that shows
In the wrapplngs Of a large Bermuda
onion. or a sort Of oyster color. or Q
blush white1 Well. In reality II Is
the color Of the dry brownish skin Of
the onion-a sort Of subdued henna
There are combs to be worn In the
evening that hold whirl of split os-
trich that forms q halo over the top
Of the head for a sweep Of eight or
nine inches. These combs are wore
with ostrich fans to match.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
IRISH AND THE OTHER LAcES
One Need Not Be an Expert to Tell
Difference Between Genuine and
Good Imitation.

Just why Irish lace has been revived
IL would be hard TO say. But whenever
II Is revived there are a good many
women who rejoice. for II Is a lace
that always has many admirers on
this side Of the Atlantic. When a wom-
an invests $30-Or $40 in Irish lace she
has something quite tangible to show
for II, for the most casual observer can
tell the real" from the imitation,
while with some of the other laces only
one who is something of an expert
could tell the difference between the
real" and a very good imitation.
Besides, Irish lace is extremely sub
stantial. 1t is not wornOut In a single
season, and 1t can be restored to its
original freshness by the professional
cleaners without much trouble or ex-
pense. And whether or not you ever
do make use of the lace a second time
you do feel consolation at spending
that $50 on lace If you feel that it can
be used over again.
Now. as 1t is being used this season.
there Is nothing Of that harshnesS
that was sometimes characteristic Of
the way il was used a dozen years ago
when il was so greatly in vogue. II is
very often combined with a fine valen-
ciennes or imitation valenciennes.
This Is especially true when IL is used
In blOuses or ON jabOts or other neck
fiXings. Then again it is simply COM
bined with fOOting-that is. insertion
consisting simply of fine net.
White frOcks of wash MATERIAL
whether in fact they are ever launder-
ed or are sent to the dry cleaner to be
freshened-are tO be worn a great deal
mere this summer than has been the
case any summer since the war be-
gan. And these frOcks are going TO be
simple lace-trimmed affairs. many Of
them. whose sole trimming is to con-
sist of yards and yards of insertion
ccybined with white orGandle or lawn
or voile And some Of the mort efrec-
tive of these wi" be the ones that
make free use Of Irish insertion and
edging.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
DICTATES OF FASHION

Tricolette Is better liked than ever
Taffeta Is used for the newest coats
voIIe Innings are suggested for
coats.
Once again elaborate jewels are in
favor.
Side panels are q feature in skirt
trimmings.
Coat Innings are bright In color and
rich Ip material.
Most suit coats show the normal
shoulder and armhOle-
BIouses are rather elaborate. but
usually match the suit
Sometimes blue gabardine Of two
shades Is used In q suit
Navy blue and tan stiil hold the
center Of fashions stage
There are buttons. buttons every
where assuming all duties Of Ornamen
tation-
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
SOME QUAINT TABLE SCREENS
Mahogany Frame Designed to be
Packed and Carried When One
Is Travelling About.

There IS always something new, or.
n may he. something old In q guise
that adds novelty TO It's other attrac.
tiOns. case in point Is one Of the
dear. little table screens, reprOduc-
tons of an antique original which have
lately been scoring a great success.
Standing about fifteen inches high, the
screen consists Of a mahogany frame
that lifts out of n neat turned foot. so
that the whole thing can be packed up
into a small compass for travelling.
Within the frame Is mounted a beau
tifully wrought needlework picture.
Whether the subject be a study OF some
gracious early Victorian figure or an
old-world garden scene. rendered with
E a delicacy and truth to nature, II
makes the little picture a never-failing
source of pleasure.
And, apropOs Of the garden pictures,
there Is another TO be seen which Ia
a veritable work Of art. often the ac-
tual presentment Of some particular
garden. whose owner had selected this
medium of keeping a remembrance OF
its beauty. Allied to this style OF en-
broidery are the motto pictures, EN-
bodying some favOrite or cOnsolatory
motto or verse with specially chosen
landscape or flower devices.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
FOR Wear AT HOME
House Dresses Of New and Most
Inviting Styles.
spirit OF Summer Brings Thought Of
Soft Lovely and Comfortable
Gowns TO Add to Wardrobe.

In the spring. when the grass Is
green and the tiny flowers are budding.
every woman catches the spirit and
turns her thoughts from warm winter
apparel to soft, lovely feminine
things, writes q weIl-known authority,
whose fashion articles are a delight
TO hosts Of women throughout the
country.
Even inside the home the spirit II
reflected I'm the pretty new house
gowns that are being worn while one
Is busy at household tasks. To be
presentasle at all times Is the duty
OF every housewife, even IL ones neigh
Dor only drops In to borrow the new
cook book.
A house gown Of comfortable cut is
always welcome In a woman's ward
robe. Many slipon models are shown
not altogether ''negligee." and yet
quite different from the well-known,
tailored house dress OF gingham.
Fine silk and cotton mixture crepe
has n genius for being fashioned into
becoming house gowns. A lovely COM
bination Is tan crepe double-crossed In
pale blue and plentifully sprinkled
with dainty flowers of coral color.
Three-lnch ruffies of a self-material
were the most interesting feature Of a
slipon house gown. Cut like q AmOno
this lovely gown fiared to q two-yard
width around the bottom. rufie
finished the deep V-neck, sleeves and
bottom of the garment. Tiny hens,
almost Invisible, edged the .frills.
which were set on with a heading
about a half-inch deep. To hold In
the fuIlness at the walstline there was
a long string girdle Of the material
looped In front.
This becoming gown Of homely love
illness would be delightful to slip on
during the feminine moments when
ones uniform Is laid aside. and yet
when one must be prepared for the
unexpected visitor. 1t Is also unusu-
ally comfortable as a working dress
and has the advantage Of being easily
laundered.
After shopping. one lovely way to
pass a leisure hour before dinner is
shown In a house gown of navy blue
silk crepe. frightened with a bit of
beige silk. A simple, two-piece skirt
Of the crepe is attached to a poplin
blouse. The waistline Is slightly EN-
pire and is finished with elastic cord
ing In a double row. The peplum is
cut TO fall well down over the hips
and is finished with a deep cuff hem.
The straight, set-in sleeves are of el-
bow length for convenience. and for
style are trimmed with beige-cOlored
cuffs. A simple roll collar of the beige
finishes the neck. and there Is a ribbon
sash tied at the front.
These lovely house gowns may be
made I'm many dainty tints and pleas
ing fabrics. But one should guard
against selecting anything too intimate
II worn as a house gown rather than
as a nPSligee
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
STUDY EFFECT OF WAISTLINE
Froeks So Loose In Cut Belt or Sash
May Be Put Anywhere Between
Bust and HipS

Though wafstlines are not as slender
as they were a generation ago. they
are no less important And just be-
cause they are not slim as wands. spe
cial attention must be given to their
dress accessories. Many of the new
frocks-and particularly evening
frocks-have bodices that drape over
the waistline and a few frocks show
actual basque effects. with a deep
point extending down over the front
Of the skirt Few women realize the
importance Of studying the question OF
the waistline In proportion to the
whole figure. A waIstline too low may
give a very bulky and clumsy effect to
a short woman, and a waistllne too
high on a tall. lanky woman Is even
more unfortunate. Fashion permits
the waistline to be anywhere now be
tween armpIt and hIp-graceful pro-
portion is the one imperative require
ment. Your waistlIne may look all
right as you stand In front Of your
dressing table mirror. and probably II
II ell right as Ear a. the upper part Of
your figure Is concerned But study
the effect before q full4ength mirror
and decide whether you really look bet
ter with q higher or q little lower
waistline-
And stick to the effect decided on
The corset has little TO do with q
vais-line's location these days Fr0cks,
are 20 loose In cut that q belt or sash
may be put anywhere between bust
and hips and over the straightIined
eorsss the costume win hang all right.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
overbIovses FashionabIe.

Overbiouses are TO continue an item
OF style Interest and they viii use
colorfngs that are rich and vary.
Colors used run from the brilliance Of
Victory red and jade green to the soft
beauty Of deep bisque and reseda-
Variety Of belt treatment and colorful
embsidery are the distinguishing fea-
lures Of these bIouses which are de
veloped on fun Russian lines with an
occasional Japanese or Chinese vari-
alton Embroidery is done chiefly IN
wool, with beads and tinsei following
closely. often with q ningiing Of an
ihree.
The broad ax., 1919-04-26
NEW SPRING FURS
MAKE THEIR BOW
EeckpieceS Are Soft StoIes and
Scarfs of Mink, Hudson Bay
Sable and Fisher.
MISS ERMINE and WHITE FOX
Petry Formerly in Highest Favor 10
Having a Quiet Rest-Some Of
the SeasonabIe Jackets
and coatees-

Now II seems We divide our furs
into three seasons at least-spring.
summer and winter. The newest furs
are called spring furs. They are very
new and they are very lovely. For
the most part this spring. writes
prominent fashion correspondent, the
newest neckpieceS are soft little stoles
and Scarfs of mink. Hudson bay sable
and fisher. One animal is used for
the whole piece 10 give a smart effect
and clasps the wearer's neck tight and
close. No furry animal is ever softer
ard richer than the light brown sable.
The little head and paws and tail are
left on 10 attest the beauty of the lit
IL creature after the furriers have
done their utmost to him. The small
neekrieces for which the sables are
Used are worn by the greater number
u women claSped in the back or at one
SIDE. These little fur pieces have not
been so much in favor for the last
lev years as they were some years
back' and because of their return to
isVor this spring we may say they are
having a revival. have seen no fur
pieces in years prettier or more be-
coming to almost every wearer than
the new ones made of three animals
10 give length sufficient to wrap
around the throat and leave a long
END On each side. Worn with one of
iAe new jaunty tricOrne hats and q
smart frOck this sort Of fur necklace,
i one may so style II, is intensely
stylish and becoming. These are not
very vide and as they are not fat
tened out but are left the natural
S1e' they make clOse-fitting collars of
Just the right height for the average
heck.
All women know that furs worn
nose about the throat and well ND TO
me chin are more becoming than the
woe and fiat pieces, however long and
iu1uHous the hair Of the latter
nay be.
IL must be borne In mind that / am
speaking now Of the spring fur pieces.
'of later on we shall doubtless turn
WIN the same enthusiasm we have
1OWn the last three years toward onr
Io1es and lynxes and wide, fat stoles
VI mole and mink. koIinsky and wolf.
AZ II Is, the smaller creatures are In
!aN at this time and are being re-
'e'eo with much enthusiasm.
Mole and Squirrel Blend.
IL is astonishing how beautifully
.O"e Skins combine. as l observed In
spiencid new narrow stole Of mole
u squirrel trimming and big round
~ oallS finishing each end. This Is
~"e Worn much as the skating scarfs
AhgOra wool are worn, with one
~ thrown over a shoulder. or II one
,S uoeS by betting In each end and
'uns the fur stole fall thus over
H shoulder and down the front.
HOsSian sable Is the fur de luxe.
~ and equisite In texture as In
ss.S Three skins have been put to-
ss er In a charming manner which
IN the coloring underneath as
as on top. Fisher resembles
-. ~nat the pointed fox. but Is hot
49, 80 50 soft II is tipped with q tiny
~ aiong the hairs aad thus has Q
y look which is attractive.
N0'on seems 70 lean heavily. how.