Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1919-11-02
nptuOuS Garments of Fur for Winter DAYS

and were much larger than the
sleeve, but did not hare.
So much for the way the dress.
makers have used fur In Paris. They
evidently tnfsnA to compete with the
to keep warm through small. adai-
tional pieces OF peltry added to her
costume. rather than through the
wearing of large garments which are
only comfortable ON certain days.
when the Thermometer drops to the
freezing point.
few Of the Americans found an
exclusive place in Paris where Nine.
Sorel. Sarah Bernhard and other ce-
iebrities went for their fur wraps.
Aviotty. the designer. is cherished as
one OF the best artists in peltry that's
France produces.
"A new wrap just finished for Nine.
Sorel, whose clothes are always of
snterest in Paris, was OF tissue. gold
on black, giving a remarkably rich
result. The hem as far as the knees
was covered with a flower effect OF
monkey fur arranged in an unusual
manner. The fur seemed to be cut
out in Immense set pieces with a cir.
cling effect in the middle and inn
mense, approaching sprays at the np-
per edge.
difficult to describe in print, and one
was constantly confronted with it in
Paris. It was made with ostrich
fiues, with Mongolia fur, with cocks
feathers. 1t reminded one of sky.
rockets.
Aviotty also created a young girrs
wrap for the theater which would be
well chosen by q debntante in this
country. 1t was Of empire green
satin made with three deep pusfs Of
the material at neck and hem. The
borders were edged with deep white
Mongolia. and the wrap was said to
be close COPY OF those that pre-
vailed IN the second empire.
The cape is the dominant garment
In fur. IL one must have a wrap OF
it. The coat in regulation shape +,
rarely seen in Paris. There arc cloth
coats for motoring that are trimmed
with fur or tined with Mongoiie or
squirrel, but the straight coat Of seal
skin, moleskin or squirrel had van.
ished.
There are capes that look Hike coats
"a trick that has prevailed in Paris
for two years. They have loose
sleeves set into armholes that are be-
low the elbow. and the fronts are
draped upward to the waist and held
around the figure, following out the
prevailing cape drapery.
Nearly all Of these capes are long.
The short dolman shape and the fitted
shoulder piece have disappeared. The
capes wrap around the figure, and in
this movement they delight the
French and are the despair Of the
Americans.
Whenever you see a Frenchwoman
wearing cape you notice that she
Is holding it in place or constantly
adjusting it with her hands. This is
necessary. The American woman.
however. rebels against putting her
hands in bondage like this. She
must have them free. She IL not
given to poses. She does not wear
her cape in order to affect a tableau.
Therefore. the American copies OF
the French capes. rs well as tho
American originations, are fastened
at the neck and well over on one
hip, SO that one may dismiss the gar
ment from ones mind, feeling sure
that it will stay in place through its
own connivance.
There should be little regret in
America for the passing OF the long
fur coat as street garment, for 1t
was never practical or economical.
1t was a garment for an occasion.
Even the cold FLOODED ones who
shiveled in Indian summer found
that the fur coat, while giving the
warmth needed, was too fatiguing to
be worn when walking. 1t needed a
motor car.
The American climate is not adapt
ed to the constant usage OF thick,
heavy garments and the American
woman, who walks more than she
rides, finds that pounds Of fur hang
ing from her shoulders wipe out
buoyancy. cheerfulness and the de-
sire for activity.
If one must have a fur coat, and
not q cape, then the short, rippl;ng
coat that reaches to the hips is Of
fered. 1t is usually made of two