Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-06-29
YANKS NO LONGER
HELD CURIOSITY
Quaint City of Salonica Now
Aware of What Americans
HAR8oa is BUSY SCENE
Woman Writer Describes Her
Experiences While Travelling
by Boat
HARBOR IS BUSY SCENE
ny Gl;R.rIkIDE ORR.

SHLcNIC-A, June 2S.-Ihcre was a
time when one American was curio-
s:ty in Salon!ca. Sow they have in
raded the place in SUCH numbers that
AS part OF the scenery. The American
nag and the kcu cross hang SIDE by
SIDE on the Grand boulevard" Of the
ETY. Steamers iiy.nS the Stars ana
an!onS the plate craft and dirty !!tt!e
sa!lboa;s ;hat ply between tAe nam
and and the 1000 isles OF The Aegean
The Creek boats brins IN oranges
ana lemons and onions. The Amerl-
can steamers are ire!Shted vita jam
and pajdmas. hour and beans. shoes
and sugar and cloth, the git OF the
people over the sea TO the new people
ashes OF the Turkish yesterday.
/ h-st E.impsed Salonica from the
deck Q; ilthy Little Greek boat that
had been tive days coming from
Athens Two hundred Greek soldiers
had been herded on the decks bound
for distant Russia with an equipment
that consisted Of L so!led. uniform. 4
min ovcrcoat and loaf of bread.
one hundred, and nifty first class"
passengers had been damned into cof-
En-l!ke cabins And the winds blew
and the rains descended. and We who
escaped sickness We're sorry be-
cause we We're left in such viviu con-
sc.ousness OF the complete misery about
us. salon!ca was indeed the Pearl
o; the. Aegean and her aaroor the
gate OF paradise a 5 we steamed in on
the morning OF the NTH day.
Fortress of Seven Towers.
The fortress OF the Seven Towers
with its crumbl:ng walls browning the
heights over the harbor was the sem
tinel OF yesterday. The city Of today
crowded down the hill 10 meet US.
through rabbit runs and tor;uous
streets, past mosques and tall min
arets, to the quay. OF 20 the left
they pointed out the Quilted ruins o:
the fire of 1917 that nearly wiped
Salonica' from the map. The cafes.
public buildings and homes that cs-
capped destruction stretched along the
right hal: of the BAGS crescent in the
shadow OF Hortachjks bumped mount.
There may be digtier citiNs than
Sa!onica, but have never seen them.
1t !ascinates In spite OF dirt. one
tount. humping over cohbie stones and
busy docks. where transports and tramp
steamers are half hid zen by spars and
sails. past burned ou, hotels. tawdry
cafes and slovcnly shops until II
reaches the White Tower. a thick wall
ed garrison. which is as famous
LANDMARKS as me OLD iorreSIi; ou lana
ncse-like buildings that house the
'Cerc!e Militar.e,,' and the club for
French poilus and marines. And then
come the frs, outposts Of the resi-
Dental section. weedy gardens thai
half schedule once hourishing homes
now gone TO SEED.
Optinists Can II boulevard.
Op;imists call the main street cf
Salonica the Grand Boulevard II is
reminiscent OF the Grand Trunk Road
OF "K:m's India East and West
meet and pass. turning upon each
after the fashion OF thought. Last
February French blue jostled the
khaki of Greek and Serb and Briton
and filled the boulevard with vocifer-
Gus echoes of Paris.
Now the French headquarters for
the Army OF the Orient have moved
farther east TO Constantinople. The
British Salonica forces are gradually
Withdrawing and the Greek NJ. rs,
who for months have served as under
studies of the English in policing the
city will soon be left undisturbed to
snarl UP the city's traffic at Will.
civilians, are coming back from war
are beginning 10 prosper and even the
street pianos have been brought out
of hiding, and decorated with new
Conl-biack scnegalese pass. along
the streets guarding ,hordes. of dusty
Aus,rians. or even full-aedged Roches
Occasionally. Albanians and Turks
with filthy kcrcNiefS tied in pirate
fashion round their heads. and wear
ing broad scarlet sashes. patronize the
local ''lemonade merchants" who carry
their stock in trade in huge copper
vessels Oh their backs.
Streets Filled With Dust.
Camions rumble along thunderously.
leaving behind suffocating clouds OF
dust and British touring ears shoot
by with terrifying zeal. The natives
'ravcl in dilapidated vehicles draWn
by raw-boned horses or astride little
donkeys that come down from the
mountains So laden with chattels and
rider that only flappinG ears. and
switching tails visible. Some
tines IA camel train comes into the
city or primitive wooden wheeled cart
drawn by water buffalo.
Up the valley OF the Nardar. back
OF the hills that dip their feet into
the waters OF Sa,onica, lies Serbia.
Ever since The offensive of last Sep
TENDER that swept Boche and Bulgar
from the invaded land a steady stream
Of food; clothing and MEDICINES. gift
of the American Red Cross" has flow
ed into the country. Peace and spring
are beginning to heal the wounds OF
seven lean years of warfare.
When the crops are reaped in the
autumn and the sheep are Sheared.
The Red Cross will withdraw its relief
commission 10 Serbia.