The sun., 1919-10-05
Requirements of Modern Times Sweep Aside Old Orthodox
Styles Since Women No Longer Submit to the
Idea Of Growing Old-Leadng Designers
Display Wide Range of Startling
Beautiful and Novel Creations

muffiers as well. They may be cuddled
up round the neck. covering entirely
the lower part of the face and hiding
the ears. Fur is employed unstint-
ingly in their confection, so that with
these and the long redingotes no extra
wrap or separate sets of furs will be
required.
Sleeves are long and plain, but with
cuff, either of the material or in some
cases of fur The long jackets have
fur also let in over the hips, together
with other variations of ingenious
methods to give the panier effect with
out declaring the panier outright.
Women of to-day refuse to accept the
! panier or little puff over the hip of a
skirt. For long the designers have
been trying to get in the panier. but
no success The blouse or corsage is
an important part of the costume. but
1t is now attached to or a part of the
skirt. The costumes are so made to
open over a dainty piece of lingerie or
embroidery, sometimes very rich in
material Cloth Of god or silver fire.
quently is used.
A Startling Transformation.
When the street suit with it's per-
fectly plain skirt and long redingote
buckled up to the chin appears 1t looks
severe and genteel enough to satisfy
the most exacting. But when the bird
in modest blue or brown or black un-
folds, when she unfastens that mighty
muffier collar. when she throws back
that austere coat, what a transforma-
tioni The collar of the coat falls off
In graceful lines over shoulder and
back; perhaps 1t forms n wide cape of
fine fur and the gaudy colors worked
out in the corsage give the wearer a
very proud look indeed and suggest
the peacock. The idea of the muffier
collar is practical as well as pleasing
/ sor the not too cold weather, for it
ioes away with the extra wrap. At
the theatre or calling the redingote
nay easily be laid aside.
AS the couturiers have cast their
eyes toward the pole star for inspira-
ton they have mounted northward
also in their selection of materials
| Soft woolly fabrics such as are worn
on the misty moors of Scotland
abound and every variety of plaids
has been purloined from the Scottish
| clans. Colors have been softened from
the glaring effects of the North and
| appear in subdued tones of amarantb
and narcissus. The size of the plaids
has, on the contrary been increased
to such an extent that often two
squares is sufficient for a short. mar
| row skirt. The texture of the woollens
! ls rich, warm, ve.vety, and instead of
| the old Names duveteen ana velour de
laine, they now sail under the title of
| buraclan, buracotta, buretta or simple
bure.
Black satin and Velvet.
Quantities OF black satin and velvet
are used for all sorts of dresses. Some
times the skirt is stiff looking enough
to stand alone-so rich is the material
with which 1t is built. This is partic-
ularly the case with the glove kid suit,
which by the way is the sensation of
the collection. The dress or rather kid
is not plain but is studded with
myriads of tiny perforations and some
| times Jet is used across the surface.
Fancy a white or mauve evening
frock of this description, further en-
riched by long, woolly black and white
angora fur. Leather enters exten-
sively into the dress trimmings this
season. black patent leather being the
p-NcCIred, and leather is seen in as
many hues as Joseph's coat. 1t is as
supple as velvet ribbon.
The absence of embroideries this
season has been compensated for
largely by the use OF bright colored
braids and rich warm materials in
contrasting shades. Few, very few
of the houses have resorted to the use
of machine embroidery. Lace Is COM
ing into its own again. webby thread
laces, worn over foundations of cloth
of gold or silver, or over little Cinder-
ella like skirts of black satin or velvet
the lace falling several inches below
the foundation.
The bodices of evening gowns are
rather Elusive. consisting for the most
part OF shoulder straps or sort OF
dog harness of rhinestones or Jet. On
the young figure of the mannequin
the effect is fairy like. The hips OF the