davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-02-01
CAY FROCKS FOR
THE YOUNG GIRL
I Increased BriIIiancy of Ward
robes in Honor Of Returning
Soldiers.
BEST GOWNS FOR @FLAPPERS"
Street Clothes Proclaim Victory Like
Trumpets, With Their Scarlet
Celebration and Embroideries
IN Red and Black.

New York.-America. has not yet
found fitting name for the girl Of
sixteen. The English call her the
'fapper," and the Anglo-Saxon world
uses the expression, whether or not II
approves Of it. In America it is rot
liked, but no one has risen TO put
this type of young person in a niche
and give her a name.
And she is quite important. pro-
claims a fashion writer. She deserves
a strong appeIlation-a quick, vibrant,
significant name for her class. her
type and her virility. We have
buried under the cobwebs of oblivion
the "Sweet sixteen" phrase. Booth
Harrington has made the one word
seventeen" classify, at least for
America, the youth of our land, with
Its awkward, stumbling tendencies to-
ward manhood. its budding emotional
ism sternIy suppressed through pride
and shame, its desire for girls com
pany, and its contempt for that de-
sire. But If We applied the single
word sixteen" to that gay, ecstatic,
poised. seif-assured, highly educated,
superintendent, adventurous class of
tall. slim things that spread over the
land, usually setting the pace for
their mothers fashions, il would be
puerile.
II is difficult to be pessimistic IL one
keeps close to the side of girls of that
age. Their outlook on life, their faith
In themselves and the world, their UNI
bounded ability to find pleasure un-
aided by anyone else. renews youth in
middle age. They are no longer crea-
lures held on a leash. They are rare
" asked to obey; they are constantly
consulted by their mothers. and they
usually take an Intelligent part In the
management of their home, its social
environments, its financial expendi-
lures. fits ideals, and its ambitions.
Granting these things-and every
one does grant them who has had any
close eompanionship with the typical
American girl. It is natural that her
interest In clothes should be strong,
and not only strong but usually ex-
eeedlngly good. She dresses herself,
as rule. better than her mother can
dress her.
Many Cater 10 Girls
Working downward--or upward.
rather-through these psychological |
phases Of girIhood among the Angie |
Saxons, and especially the North |
Americans, one finds the reason for
the establishments Of many success
ful dressmaking houses which cater TO |
young girls Few Of the great estab- |
Iishments here or abroad neglect the
-.flnpper.s From the time she Is |
twelve until she makes her bow 70 |
society At eighteen she Is catered 70 |
By houses that expend much IN
Eenuify and brilliaBcy q workman |
ship On her especial type Of clothing. I.
Two Of the important financial snc-
eesses IN ne dressinakihg world of |
New Cork started win the schoolgirl |
ElfEh avenue houses which cater 70 /
doWazers and sensafiQpal young ma
truns hare determined tbs year 20
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-02-01

be more easily made and more easily
slipped on il the two sections are
made separate.
For very early spring wear some of
the clever designers are showing long
blouses Of figured foulard to be worn
with white satin or silk jersey cloth
skirts.
A, blouse such as the one shown in
the sketch, worn with a handsome silk
or satin skirt, makes a costume suf-
ficiently dressy for any afternoon
function.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-02-01

The new victory color combination
Is shown in this Lady Duff Gordon
model by drapina the finely crossed
tucked navy seoroette over deep
cherry cashmere cloth (soft satin).
Cherry eoiored wood beads emphasize
the crossing Of the tueks and finish
the hem. Same two combinations are
used for the oirdIe and sash.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-02-01

It seems that the round semideeol-
lete neckline Is the favored one for
the winters dressy blouses. For tal-
lored blouses. the high turnover col
lar o. lace or material Ike the blouse
and worn with dark tie or ribbon. Is
the best style.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

dusting or cleaning without making the
wood, in time, look parched. Putting the
oil and turpentine in the water, as di-
rected, makes it possible not only to
wash the wood, but to redress it at the
same time.
A good polishing mixture is equal
quantities Of turpentine and linseed oil.
The amount mixed depends, Of course,
on how much of it is needed. If this
mixture is used, and the rubbing con-
tinued long enough (this is most impor-
tant), it will produce beautiful polish
with a lustre that far excels shellac or
varnish The sickness Of the oil is
counteracted by the turpentine, and
hence good results are obtained
Lemon oil, if used alone, has an ad-
vantage over linseed oil if it is used by
itself, because lemon oil is drying oil
or one that partially evaporates, while
linseed oil is like olive oil, non-drying
and non-evaporating. Kerosene is espe-
cially a cleanser, but with this, too, all
the surplus oil must be ped off. By
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

ing brush. In the absence Of that, the
flannel to be used for rubbing may be
tied to the soles of the feet, and by
"scuffing" the polishing may be accom-
plished One can readily see that this
is not an easy method.
To Shellac or Varnish
Shellac or varnish should be of the
very best quality to warrant their use,
waxed or oiled floor giving much better
service If the housekeeper attempts to
do her own shellacking, she must choose
the best quality and be willing to pay
the price. Have the shellac thin, SO
that it goes on without stringing. The
secret of putting on shellac is to use
long, straight strokes, as irregular lift
ing strokes will let air into the shellac
and cause it to turn white. A good
shellac dries quickly-almost instantly
and that is the reason that the strokes
must be regular and even. If one shell
lacs wood, rubs it down with light,
even stroke with steel wool (size 00)
until no shine remains, and then wakes
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
By VIRGINIA CARTER LEE

A FTER more or less meatless
"A Lent the coming Of the fresh veal,
which lends itself to so many de-
licious dishes and is 80 delicate in flavor
and texture, is timely and suits the sea-
son, besides.
The idea is entertained by many
people that veal in any form is un-
wholesome, but this can only be the case
when it is undercooked or, perhaps, when
the animal has been killed too young.
In buying veal see that the flesh is pink
and firm and the bones hard. Avoid all
veal that is blue in tinge and at all
fabby
Just at present the different cuts of
veal cannot be classed among the cheap
est meats, although calf's brains at l5
cents set and veal kidneys at 80 cents
each may form the basis Of number Of
good dishes, whose cost is not excessive.
Especial attention is directed to the
mock pate de foie gras (made from
caif's liver), the recipe for which is
given. This is delicious sliced cold and
served with an aspic jelly, in salad, or
as a filling for sandwiches. In pre-
pairing 1t, as we'll az the minced veal
outlet, if the housewife does not possess
a mortar, pass the meat through the
meat grinder, using the smallest knife,
then turn into chopping bowl and
pound with wooden potato masher.
The veal rolls with the oyster force
meat dressing are very good, and If q
bit Of Drowned cooked liver is added Ia
the gravy it will furnish very good
substitute for giblets. Prepared in this
way the rolls taste much like roast
chicken.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
ne Care of W00d-Fl00rs, Furniture and FRAMEWORK
rRrorr~m mcm~o ~

it, the results, for table tops and desks,
for example, will be very satisfactory.
To Stain
Staining should be done on uniform
foundation. Begin by bleaching the
dark places until they are like the
lighter ones. Rubbing with fine sand
paper may accomplish this, or washing
with turpentine In extreme cases, OK
alic acid must be used. Washing soda
solution will do, but the wood is never
so white as when oxalic acid is used.
To put on the dye, better results will
be obtained if two coats of light dye
are used rather than one dark one. Use
an oil preparation, as water dye would
not resist water spots. Should the dye
leave a shine, and dull finish is desired,
rub with steel wool and then oil
To Paint
To have a painted surface smooth
rub the scars (where the paint is Off
with fine sandpaper or with steel wool
Then with a paintbrush touch up the
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
w THEN women design and make
wv the woodwork and the mould

w the woodwork and the mould
ings in houses they will be
plain. There will be no endless rows Of
tiny lodges to collect dust and be
cleansed with infinite care. Nor will
there be any more Moorish frieze work
with countless squares out Of which the
dust must be laboriously poked with a
discredited toothbrush, nor chair backs
each one of which requires a special
operation with specially designed tools
to dust them properly. But in the mean
time, while these dubious interior deco
rations are with us, it may cut down the
thousands of hours of work spent by
women all over the country in doing this
kind Of cleaning if the proper imple-
ments are at hand. Besides saving time
it also saves hands and tempers and
clears the atmosphere, temperamentally
and physically, if up-to-date types Of
chemically treated busters and skilfully
shaped brushes are available.
The Shino Mitten Duster slips over
the hand like mitten, the palm and
fingers Of which are covered with
chemically treated yarn which both alb
serbs the dust and polishes the articles
busted. The mitten may be washed in
warm water without destroying its spe-
cial properties. The L-V Dust Cloth,
31x34 inches, is another chemically
treated duster that polishes and absorbs
dust simultaneously, and may also be
cleansed and still preserve its special
characteristics.
The Metal Hand is an ingenious con-
trivance, shown in the illustration. de-
signed to hold mop or dust cloth, and
is especially convenient for dusting out
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Special Cleaning
White Enamel Paint

In cleaning white enamel paint, moth
ing should be used that would discolor
it. A clean soft cloth like cheesecloth,
wrung out of hot water, will give as
good results for white enamel paint az
the suggested oil and turpentine MKT
ure does for dark woods Should the
soil be heavy or bit greasy, use little
ammonia in the hot water, or a nom
scratching cleaning soap, or whiting on
the cloth. A little of some good white
soap may be used. Rinse with clear
water and wipe dry to prevent streaking.
Dark Woods
The cleaning mixture of oil and tur-
pentine will make it possible for the
housewife to wash wood. Water cannot
be used on waxed or oiled furniture in
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Care of Cloths and Brushes

Any clean cloth, like a polishing
cloth, or pads used for rubbing, can be
held from one polishing time to another
by keeping in tin can or stone crock.
The turpentine and oil mixture is in
fiammable, as are all prepared furniture
polishes. To keep cloths saturated with
them closed in away from the air is to
prevent their tanning into flame. If the
cloths are not to be kept to be used
again, they should be put to soak in
water to which washing soda or some
other soap powder has been added; other
wise they should be burned
Brushes should be treated in the same
way, and materials like benzine and
turpentine should be we'll corked, clearly
labelled, and kept in a cool place. One
cannot afford to have these down cellar
or in some closet where the room is
likely to be warm
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Victory Loan Menus

in way OF
hs the
around Now called
of food the ehandan
Other sapathetc candl
set of The erace?
"makes
plan
Victory best uldmake ALL
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

Of the way or high places and lodges.
The divided narrow frame Of wire,
twenty-three inches long, has a twisted
stem that fits into the long black en-
amelled wooden handle The loop and
slider make it possible to fasten mop,
cloth or sponge to the framework.
The third tested cleaner Of this type
bears the suggestive name coil of Glad
ness" Utility Duster and is made in the
form of three long prongs of twisted
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
TESTED RECIPES
Sauted Sweetbreads

Soak pair of sweetbreads in cold
water for an hour or more. Change
the water several times to draw out all
the blood. Parboil in acidulated salted
boiling water for twenty minutes, then
immerse in cold water to make them
firm. Remove the pipes, strings and
tbre without breaking the sweetbreads
When half cold, tie each in piece of
cheesecloth, drawing it into an oval form,
and then place under light weight until
cold. Slice with a silver knife, dust
with salt and paprika and saute.
Mock Pate de Foie Gras
Cut one pound of calfs liver in pieces
and pound it in a mortar. Add to one
large cupful Of the liver pulp one-quar-
ter of a cupful of flour panada made
from scant quarter of cupful Of
water or stock, teaspoonful of oleo,
quarter of teaspoonful of salt and as
much -four as will absorb the liquid
Place over very moderate heat and
stir constantly until the mixture leaves
the sides of the pan. Combine tea
spoonful each of salt and melted butter,
half teaspoonful of paprika, few
grains of cayenne, two lightly beaten
eggs and quarter of teaspoonful each
of grated nutmeg and ground allsplce.
Mix well, pack into buttered mould
and set in a pan of hot water. Bake for
forty-five minutes. Serve hot or cold.
Creamed Calls Brains With Mush-
rooms
Soak the brains for an hour in cold
water and simmer for twenty minutes in
boiling water containing tablespoonful
of vinegar, half a teaspoonful Of salt,
half a sliced onion, bay leaf and half
a teaspoonful of powdered thyme.
Blanch them, remove all skin and fibre
and chill on the ice. When ready to
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
for the Home Folks

serve, cut in cubes, and for cupful of
the cubes add one cupful of thick sea-
soned cream sauce and half cupful of
button mushrooms cut in two and sauted
IN a little butter. Do not boil the
brains after adding the sauce. Add ex-
ira salt and paprika as needed.
Minced Veal Outlet
Veal outlet is expensive, but this rec
ipe offers a very good substitute for
much less money. Pass one generous
pound of lean stewing veal through the
meat chopper, with half a cupful of
ham and quarter of a cupful Of beef
marrow. Pound smooth and gradually
blend in quarter of a cupful of rich
milk, salt and paprika to taste, the
beaten yolk Of one egg and a teaspoon
ful of grated onion. Chill on the ice,
form INTO outlet shapes, egg and bread
basket( IN deep, hot fat. Drain for a
moment and serve on spaghetti dressed
with tomato sauce and grated cheese.
Veal Rolls With Dressing
Have thin slice cut from the leg,
suiilclent in size to make four rolls. Cut
IN four squares and dust lightly with
salt, celery salt and paprika Lay in
the centre Of each a spoonful Of oyster
forcemeat dressiag and roll over the
meat. Tie securely, bt-ash over with
little bacon fat and bake in a moderate
oven. Baste while baking with addi-
tional bacon dripping. Serve with
brown gravy, to which two tablespoons
full Of chopped liver have been added.
Calls Kidney With Bacon
Be sure that the kidneys are very
fresh. Remove the fat and white cen
tre, then soak for one hour in cold, salt
ed water. Cut them in Slices half ar
inch thick and dust with salt and pap
rika. Place alternate pieces of the kid
ney and thin strips of bacon on small
wire skewers, lay them in a creased
broiler and broil until well Drowned
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

two devices shown wiring the mop with
out even wetting the hands. The White
Mop Wringer fits any size pail and re-
quires no special adjusting. A gentle
pressure on the lever does the work
There is nc pulling or wringing neces-
sary, and it is simple and durable in
construction. The D. &, B. Mop Wringer
and Pail combined is a galvanized steel
bucket with a wringer mounted on it,
One foot holds it In place and the other
wrings the mop by pressing on lever,
leaving the hands free to hold the stick.
1t may seem like "much ado about
nothing to discuss these small pieces of
apparatus in detail, but they add tre-
mendously to the comfort and speed of
everyday routine tasks and destroy
much of the disagreeableness Of the con-
stantly repeated household detail in
some Of its most trying forms.
List of Tested and Endorsed
Cleaning Tools
prices subject to change)
Shino Mitten Duster. Price, SO cents.
Made by the Pioneer Manufacturing
Company, Harvard Avenue and East
1O3d Street, Cleveland, Ohio.
Metal Hand" Price, 35 cents. Made
by the Atlas Utility Company, White
Plains, N. Y.
L-V Dust Cloth. Price, rs cents.
Made by the Buffalo Specially Company,
Buffalo, N. Y.
"Ol of GIadness' Utility Duster.
Price, rs cents. Made by the Dunlap
Manufacturing Company, Bloomington,
Ill.
White Mop Wringsr. Price. s1.7s-
$275. Made by the White Mop Wringer
Company, Fultonville, N. Y.
D. & B. Mop Wringer and Pail. Price,
$3.50. Made by the Dobbins Manufac-
turing Company, 114-16 South Third
Street, Saltwater, Mimi.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Convenient Cleaners-Tested and Endorsed

it until it can be shaken into the outside
air instead of loading the atmosphere of
the room with dust which only settles
back on the furniture
The maid has been known to leave
rather than to wiring out mop and it
isn't a pleasant job for any one. The
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Prepared in the Tribune Institute

wire covered with treated black cotton
yarn, which look like Prince of Wales
plumes, but perform the humble service
of reaching between the Stats Of chairs
and into crevices with minimum of
time and trouble and maximum of
cleanliness. 1t gathers the dust and holds
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

TIME different woods used for furni-
ture are the same as those used
for floors, doors and staircases,
the only difference being IN the way they
are finished. 1t is understood, then, that
the directions given for the care of
woods may be applied to all.
''Day by Day" Saves
Cataclysm of Cleaning
Daily care is the first essential, and
that is to dust thoroughly with a clean,
soft cloth which is non-inting. Any
carvings should be brushed clean with
a soft, old brush like an old toothbrush
or nailbrush. If wood is kept clean by
using the clean cloth only, it will keep
bright and polished for much longer
time than if rubbed constantly with oily
cloths. A floor, for example, will be
darkened by using oiled mops daily.
Do not attempt false cleanliness by
using too much oil! Remember that oil
plus dust equals gummy substance,
which in time will have to be scraped of.
Clean wood viii. shine, and needs but
little Of any special treatment, if kept
clean.
General Directions for Cleaning
Wood
To polish soiled wood by cleaning 1t,
use
One quart of boiling water to which has
been added one tablespoonful Of turpen-
tine and three tablespoonsful Of boiled
linseed oil. If the wood is very light,
like, bird's-eye maple, use lemon oil.)
When cool enough so that the cloth
may be wrung out comfortably, it is
ready to use Wash the wood with a
piece Of cheesecloth and this solution,
and wipe with a second piece Of cheese
cloth. Mix only one quart at time, as
the mixture will soil quickly and should
not be used to clean after it is soiled.
This mixture can be used on any woods
except white enamel There is no point
in oiling enamel paint
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
Rehnishing
To Wax Woods

A standard floor wax and an abso-
lutely clean floor are the essentials. Use
a very thin coating on a piece Of soft
flannel or outing cloth, remembering it
is not the amount of wax but the rub
bing that counts To make the wax
more easily handled, warm it enough to
soften. In doing small piece, like a
table top, the wax can be rubbed in the
palms Of the hands until it is warm and
soft. Then apply it in layers, thin as
films. Begin with a piece of wax the
size of a pea.
For a floor, Of course, one would not
use the hands, but the weighted polish
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

surplus is meant all that the wood has
not absorbed after standing a reason
able period of time (an hour or SOY.
Every coat of oil darkens, SO remember
that little oil and much rubbing is the
sure you have rubbed enough, then rub
some more.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
To Remedy Bruises and Dents

Bruises in wood, like scratches and
dents, cannot be cleaned off, and so re-
quire special attention. Some bruises
are only on the surface skin deep" so
to speak-and these scratches may be
rubbed with OIL Use only light oil, like
lemon oil, on very light colored woods,
and a darker oil, like boiled linseed, for
darker woods. Make two or three appl-
cations and usually the scratches will
disappear.
For dents, when the bruise has been
produced by something falling on the
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

wood, the treatment is to raise the wood
This can be done if the dent is not too
deep. Moisten the wood by laying wet
blotting paper oyer the bruise; then pro-
duce steam by holding a hot iron close
but not on, the wet paper. The moisture
swells the wood, and an even surface
results
Very deep dents, or where pieces Of
wood have been knocked off, mean
harder work, and require SO much time
and special knowledge that the house
wife will feel, no doubt, that she can
save time and money by having an cx-
pert do the work.
To Remove Spots on Wood
Alcohol spots may be removed bv
rubbing with a soft cloth and a few
drops of camphcr Water spots. ike the
rings made by flower pots and vases Of
water, can be removed by using two or
three drops Of ammonia on the cloth
Heat spots, such as often come on the
table from hot dishes, if still in the film,
state can be rubbed up with oil. #
very white, a few drops of benzine on
the cloth may be used, and by rubbing
the spot lightly, in straight lines, with
the grain of the wood, the spot may be
removed. Do not use beazine with anv
fame near. After removing any Of
these spots rub with little OIL
The "bloom" that often comes on fnr-
niture is from moisture, and is especi-
ally noticed on mahogany when the
house is closed for the summer. The
hot water, turpentine and oil mixture
will do much to remove it.
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20
killing the Fatted Calf"

One set Of Calls brains when cooked
will furnish one small cupful of the
brain cubes and, mixed with the mush-
rooms and cream sauce, serves four per-
sons. The brains, after being parboiled,
may also be cut in cubes, moistened with
vinaigrette. dressing and served on
crisp lettuce leaves, or they may be cut
in slices and sauted in the same manner
as sweetbreads.
Supplies for the week will include
at the butchers a veal soup bone, cost
ing 25 cents; two pairs of sweetbreads,
at 35 cents pair; one pound Of calf's
brains, at Is cents; one pound Of lean
stewing veal, at 80 cents; a quarter of
q pound of ham for 13 cents, 10 cents
worth of beef marrow, two veal kid
neys, at 30 cents each; one pound Of
stewing beef, at 35 cents pound; a
quarter of a pound Of bacon, at 10
cents, and one pound Of veal outlet (for
the veal rolls), at So cents.
At the fish market, one two-pound
frozen mackerel, at 25 cents pound;
two pounds Of founder, at 18 cents a
pound, six large clans, at 6 cents each,
and one dozen oysters, at 20 cents q
dozen.
In the dairy products are allowed six
quarts of grade B bulk milk, at IL cents
quart; two quarter -pints of cream, at
IA cents each; one pound and half of
table butter, at 72 cents pound; half
a pound Of oleo, at 40 cents pound, and
thirty-two eggs, at 81 cents a dozen.
Following are the marketing figures:
Butchers bill. ............ 1914
Fish market. et.............. LAP
MILK and cream. ........... 100
Butter and oleo. ......... 1928
Eggs ................... LAO
frult ................... 1.80
Vegetables ..........., 200
Groceries ............... 1886
Total. $1,000
New-York tribune., 1919-04-20

scars and allow to dry. Next give a
first coat of paint, if the surface is
smooth, and second coat about twenty
four hours later
To white enamel paint, the best re-
suits will be obtained by using two coats
of fiat house paint, then two coats of
good oil enamel paint, being sure to let
each coat dry. This treatment is espe-
cially good for iron bedsteads.