davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1919-05-11

extremely successful theater turbans,
made of black tulle. is wrapped about
the head in the ancient way, and has a
thick paradise that falls downward
over the cheekbones and curls under
the chin. This is worn with a black
tulle gown which has shoulder straps
of jet.
There is a Grecian turban of golden
brown silk tulled which fits over the
coiffure and makes one think it is hair,
and not net. 1t is held to the head
with wide bands of dull gold, which
are caught behind the ears with Roman
coins. This was worn by young
woman who was sufficiently clever to
mount it above a Grecian frock of pale
yellow crepe de chine, caught up on
the shoulders with garlands of yellow
satin roses
Women have also shown themselves
clever in adapting the oriental turbans
to half decolletage, rather than an
extremely low one. They have given
the bandeau, with it's uprising osprey,
the place of honor with the new back
less bodices that are being exploited
wherever people flock together to
Evening star., 1919-05-11
THE LINGERIE.

THE pencil silhouette that still pre-
walls is not merely matter OF
the frocks one wears or the stays be-
meath them. but the lingerie worn with
them has had its share in producing
this hipless appearance. SO as skirts
shorten or widen, lengthen or grow
narrow, the lingerie designer must al
ter her plans.
The complete change in skirt proper
tions that has taken place has called
for a right-about in petticoat construc-
ton, and recently the lingerie makers
have been confronted with the problem
Evening star., 1919-05-11

dressing. So that the Indian turban,
the Juliette cap and the Arabian
swathings do little damage to the
hair.
Women have already begun to go
about in the evening with their heads
adorned in the way that has always
been considered necessary in those
ultra-civilized countries that lie below
the Mediterranean sea. In large Sec
tors of American society this orna-
mental headdress has not taken hold,
but, judging by the extraordinary pop
ularity of the Castle cap and the Castle
bandeau throughout the urban. sub
urban and rural free delivery districts
OF this continent. one is inclined to
believe that the bit of something orna-
mental in the hair will soon be de-
manded by those who live far from
the congested districts of high fashion.
The fashion began in Paris a year
ago. The women took it up because
they were not permitted to wear low
gowns in the evening. They felt the
need Of some sartOrisl gayety about
their costumes, so they tucked things
In and over their hair.
The stage exploited the idea to such
an extent that it became a right sub
ject for the cartoonists. Such women
as Gaby Deslys and Mistlnguett-both
idols Of the American soldiers-made
their fantastic headdress the most
notable things in their performances.
What the stage accentuates and ex-
aggerates the public modities and ac-
cepts.
When Mrs. Woodrow Wilson ap-
peared at the opening of the opera
In Paris she yielded to the new fash
lon and wore around her dark hair
several bandeaux of jet and diamonds
with fountain sprays at the side.
Every woman In the opera house, 1t
was said. wore some distinguishing
headdress, and the reporters spent
their time listing the ornamented
heads. rather than the half-clothed.
Evening star., 1919-05-11
New Fashions.

THE demand for fabrics that can be
easily converted into waistcoats
continues. One fabric that meets the
demand is the wide black silk trim
ming band, embroidered in colors, the
embroidery emphasized with gold and
silver threads. This trimming comes
in two widths, one wide enough to
make the waistcoat without piecing.
the other only wide enough for half
the waistcoat. This narrower silk
must be pieced down the front. but
this piecing is effected with smartness.
under a pleat. The silk in the wider
widths costs So or 50 yard; in the
narrow about half as much.
Figured pongee has boen made into
some charming new blouses. 1t shows
scrawling designs in blue, soft blue.
The designs are not so bold and strik-
Evening star., 1919-05-11

dance or to see the play. These
bodices are sometimes shocking, again
they are rather attractive. One of the
new tricks is to tie the sides Of the
bodice to the shoulder straps with a
bow Of tulle or satin ribbon.
No doubt much that is hideous will
be evolved from these attractive head
dresses before the season is finished.
All women are not artists. and even
artists indulge in far too much license
at times. We may live to deplore the
return Of a period of ornamental hair
dressing. There may come, even in
six months time, drastic upheaval
which will signify a protest against
it and bring us to some type of severe
hairdressing, in repetition of what oc-
Cured when Marie Antoinette was
Queen of France.
Hairdressing reached it's apex at that
hour. AS some seers have said. 1t
grew as high as the guillotine, which
finally ended it. 1t has been feature
Of fashion that women have never
played with gently; not only In France,
but in England, in Holland and in the
Slavic countries, as we'll as the orien-
tai ones, women have taken to dress
ing the head with an avidity that they
never gave to gowns. They have in
vented monstrous things as frames for
their faces. They were threatened
with accommodation by the Pope OF
Rome in one century, but even this
dire threat to a Roman Catholic coun-
try did not diminish one whit the
height, breadth Of magnificence of the
towering edifices that they put on their
heads.
Are we on the eve OF revival OF
much Of this medievalism? Why
not? We have done it in war. In ap-
parel and in mentality. Why should
we omit head-dresses?
Evening star., 1919-05-11
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

IT Is only in certain epochs of
the worlds history that women
take interest in ornamental and
L fantastic hairdressing. Such an
epoch now dawns. One can see
the rosy-fngered lights appearing
above the horizon.
But there is no cause for the hair
dressers to leap with Joy, for the type
of ornamentation that is put on the
coifrure is not of their making. 1t
may be in Paris it is not in America.
In this country the milliners attend to
whatever Is ornamental on the head.
The hairdressers are busily absorbed
keeping the hair in condition, cutting
it, curling 1t. 1t seems they have
plenty to do. Even in the smaller
towns 1t is often necessary to make
an engagement a week in advance for
thirty minutes work.
Perhaps one should use the word
''headdress." instead of "hairdress"
in referring to the new type of coif-
fure. Some of it SO completely covers
the head that one suspects hasty
and careless pitching together of the
locks beneath 1t. Certainly, 1t is a
temptation to adopt the type Of hair
dress that permits one to eschew the
curling-iron, the permanent wave and
the hair net. 1t might be good idea
to give the hair a rest for a half year
from all the tortures expended on 1t
In the name Of fashion and smart
Evening star., 1919-05-11

ing SIS those in the new foulards,
neither are they SO dainty and flower
like as foulards and pongees used to
he. The blouses are made usually with
tan or ecru net in the form Of little
vestees and collars and sometimes
frills at the arms.
Some Of the new wells show colored
designs on black net grounds. There
is one fine black mesh with a design
in blue threads that makes almost an
all-over scroll work across the veirS
surface. Others have border designs
worked in tan or blue chenille dots.
Some have big applied polka dots Of
color. in soft, silky fabric. These
wells look decidedly we'll when the de-
sign is in the color of the hat trim
ming.
There Is a new motor veil with an
inset for the face of lace in q founda-
ton of chiffon. Every spring. Of
course, some such veil appears on the
counters, for there are still many mo-
torists who like to have their face and
hair protected from the dust of the
road when they motor.
Japanese silk crepe underwear is a
charming sort of thing for warm
weather wear. To begin with. 1t laun-
6ers perfectly. In the next place, it is
soft and sheer and cha arming to look
upon as well as to feel. Then 1t is
made very attractively, being em-
broidered with English eyelet work as
fine as that usually found on handker-
chief linen underwear. Altogether. it
seems likely that it will hold high
place as a summer favorite.
Slippers Of heavy silk. in any color
that you wish to match given neg
lige, are quilted in small criss-cross.
The effect is very attractive. The
slippers are made with French heels,
either in the form of the regulation
slipper or as mules, and they are also
made with fatter heels sometimes.
Little flowers, of the sort we are
used to on underwear, are now used
to trim silk slippers. They are used
to outline the upper edge, and some
times form a little festoon or wreath
ON the toe. These of course, are only,
pretty on silk slippers.
silk slippers embroidered in the
Japanese fashion are another pretty
bit Of boudoir footwear.
Evening star., 1919-05-11

of making a suitable slip to be worn
with the chemise frocks that still are
worn.
More and more interest is taken in
children's underwear, and nowadays
the daintiest fabrics are used for 1t.
To be sure, the sensible mother buys
nothing but muslin of some kind for
only those fabrics which launder read
lily are suitable for children.
Evening star., 1919-05-11

ion with a feeling akin to terror be-
cause of the memories revived.
1t is quite probable that Paris has
not had headdress party since those
immediate pre-war days. when it was
in high fashion. Its return to favor
means return to light-hearted gaye-
ty. Those in America should take up
the idea as a novel means of enter
tanning. for while woman may not
care to invest the money and time
necessary to get up an entire fancy
dress costume, she Is quite willing to
do up her head according to some an
cient fashion or after some interest
ing or savage race Of people. Ideas
are plentiful, the work is simple and
the transformation Of the face. when
well done, gives its own cause for
merriment.
X X X X
Whether or not the Americans
adopt fantastic head-dress. whether
they wear Persian turbans with jewels,
Cossack caps of satin and jeweled net,
or Juliette caps Of pearls and sap
phires, they will probably take up to
a great extent those simple forms Of
ornament which call for one or more
bandeaux and a towering feather at
the side. This is the fundamental
form Of hairdressing, and 1t contin-
ually makes its appearance whenever
the sleek, plain coiffure goes out of
fashion.
The woman who INDUCES in a dis
tinctive coiffure can carry of its sim-
plicity with an air, and women have
already begun to change their coif-
fures in a startling manner from what
has been accepted for several years.
The bobbed head has become so
widely accepted that 1t no longer
causes a thrill Of surprise. Even wom-
en- with white hair adopt 1t. and young
women take 1t as matter Of course.
This was the first departure from the
normal in hairdressing that America
experienced. and now she Is getting
into her full stride. with white wigs,
Evening star., 1919-05-11
X X X !

There is a curious tendency shown
by several Of the best turbans to let
their trimming droop downward in
stead Of mounting upward. One Of the
Evening star., 1919-05-11

Silk slippers embroidered in the
Japanese fashion are another pretty
bit Of boudoir footwear.
Evening star., 1919-05-11

dressing. So that the Indian turban,
the Juliette cap and the Arabian
swathings do little damage to the
hair.
Evening star., 1919-05-11

OOHe.
Ingenuity has had wide fling in
headdresses. This is evident from the
absence of commonplace ideas. What
ever Is traditional has been omitted
Even the turban Of cloth of gold
which has been lifted from the battle
fields that lie below the Mediterranean,
has an immense plume that falls over
the shoulder to the bust, instead Of
rising stifiy from the middle of the
forehead, as one would expect it to
do. This trick is quite successful, be-
cause it is becoming. The thickest
and longest ostrich feather Is used.
and it is dyed in brilliant colors like
cherry, or bishop purple. or bright
blue. This type of turban is so gor-
geous that it is only worn with a frock
Of supple brocade or satin, and some-
times dead-white satin at that.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
EXPORTERS DISCUSS
 TRADE WITH GERMANY
IN '. Tribunel

Manufacturers, bankers. commission merchants and shipping men from all parts of the United States are sched- uled to meet here next month to de- termine upon a definite and uniform policy for the guidance of exporters in the resumption of trade with the ceu- tral powers. That these relations will shortly be re-established is indicated by the recent arrival of a steamer from Germany with German goods for American consumption. Reports of the activities of other countries looking to early resumption of trade relations with Germany and Austria have also strengthened the belief and have brought home to the American busi- ness me nthe necessity for quickly de- terminining their own plans.
 To secure an agreement upon the policies under which American export CTS should operate invitations have been sent to all interested concerns asking them to be represented at the conference, which will be held in New York October 16 and IT.
 To give the fullest weight to the con- clusions of this conference, it's sessions have been made an integral part of the foreign trade convention which is be- ing held under the auspices of the American Manufacturers Export asso- citation on these dates. Assurances al- ready have been received that repre- sentatives of American concerns which are constantly receiving inquiries for their products from buyers in Austria and Germany will be present in large numbers.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
coNsIpERATE oFTHE NEIeHHoRs
(Houston Postl

(Houston Post)
 Mrs. Knagg-If you don't treat m, better I'll go home to my mother. Her Husband-And if thought youl mothers neighbors could stand both oi you at the same time I'd let you go.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

round of his last bout with Lincoln, but he is not going to let the same thing happen again. He knows he can whip Lincoln, and if there is any place he would prefer to do it, it is right here in Phoenix.
 The bout which is attracting atten- tion. is to be staged by the Union Athletic club, at the Alhambra arena. According to the Tucson papers their last bout was one of the best ever staked there. Lincoln had all the bet ter of seven rounds, but in the last round Chavez romped forth from his corner and had the Tucson boy hang ing on at the bell It was generally agreed that had d'Benny opened up be- fore the tenth round he would have easily defeated Lincoln.
 Chavez has a lengthy record be- hind him. He has been the pride of Colorado for many year. In fact, SC great has the demand been for his services in that section of the country that this is one of the very few times he has ever gone outside to fight. Even though this be the case, he is one of the best known fighters in the country
 There is no charge to Chavez train ing quarters. The public is invited every day to witness Cappelli and Chavez work out.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
Quarterback Should Be Natural Leader Among
 His Fellows
BY WALTER CAMP (Most Famous Football coach)

There are a few important cardinal principles that should govern the choice of signals, and they are com- bined in the expression, "Get all you can out of your men"
 On the attack, a quarterback should never look before a play at the man to whom he is to pass. He should take a general look over his opponents at each lineup. and one over his own backfield. If he uses starting signal, he should not get a trick of sticking out his hands just before the bah is to come. To make his team fast, hs must put life and confidence in his signals. making them sharp and clear. On line plunges he should put the ball into the stomach of the runner. and get his own leg out of his way, espec- ially on close cross bucks. He must not start 10 swing his hands till he gets the ball.
 When nearing the goal line, he should tell his backs to Squeeze the ball, Don't tumble e" It makes them think right His generalship should run like this.
 Don't try long forward passes to end on the third down. Remember that if you have to send an end down the llclh ldHl pl d iOHB lOIWdTu pass ut is not fresh enough to cover the kick you must make on fourth down. and the opponents may get a long run back in consequence.
 Don't work away from the goal posts on a third down. IL puts you in a poor position for a drop kick on the fourth down.
 Always work up to the windwaro side of the field on the down preced. ing a. kick in a cross wind. It vii the punt.
 If a field is much crowded or slip. pery. give your runner the downhil
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
WORKING HARD FUR BOUT
 WITH LINCOLN

Benny Chavez, with a long string of victories behind him and a deter imitation to acquire a few more, started training yesterday for his bout here the 18th with Ralph Lincoln Chavez is conducting his work at the Phoenix Athletic Club on East Wash ington street.
 In his last bout with Lincoln. Benny lost the decision. He lays the loss to the fact that he was not in proper condition. He could not get enough sparring partners in the Old Pueblo, where the fight was held, but in Phoe- nix he has found plenty.
 He is working out every day with Billy Capelli. Both lads are training for bouts and both are working here. Chavez admits he got tired during one
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
ARIZONA TENNIS
 TOURNEY TO BF
 PLAYED UT. 25

The fifth annual tournament for the Arizona state championships in tennis will be held this year at the Tucson Golf and Country club, October 25. and the folowling days, according to circular just received in Phoenix. The meet is sanctioned by the United States National Lawn Tennis associa- ton and the Border States Tennis as- sociation.
 George A. Judson announced last night that he in company with Paul Bennett would enter the tournament to contest for the doubles champion ship. Judson has held that title for the past two years having won it with Chester Goldberg at the last tourna- ment held. Both Bennett and Judson will enter in the singles. They also hold the border states championship.
 The events to be played are the fol- lowing:
 Mems open singles, mems open dou- bles, womens' open singles. women's s open doubles, veterans singles, vet erans doubles, super veterans singles, and if there are enough entries to war rant, consolation mems singles.
 Entries
 Entries for the above events must be in the hands of the secretary of the Tucson Golf and Country club not later than Thursday, October 23, 1919, at ?. m.
 Drawings for play will be made | Thursday evening at 8 p. m., October | 2}, 1919.
 All entries must be accompanied by the entrance fee. For singles, g; foI doubles, (per pair). g. Prizes
 First and second prizes will be given in all events. The T. Ed Lit challenge trophy cup will be contested for in the mems open singles. Chester Goldberg ! is the present holder.
 Matches
 Matches will be the best two out oi three sets in all events, except in the finals of both the mems open singles ] and the mems open doubles, in which
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

chance to gain his distance.
 Be caerful about waiting till the fourth down for your kick. The op- ponents know then that it must be a kick and can come through faster.
 The first and second downs are the times to try for the big gain. If you get seven or eight yards on the first or second you can then play the safe short one for the necessary distance.
 Don't be afraid to use a man who is gaining ground. Use your best ground gainer when you get near the goal. Don't tire him out in midfield. Keep him fresh for the final plunges.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
LIFTS TAKE PASSENGERS
 TO DECK OF AlRLINER

LONDON-Air passengers will as- cend in elevators through hollow moor ing posts from their hotel to the decks of the airliners of the Great Northern Aerial Syndicate.
 This is one of the conveniences that is to be available when trans-ocean travel is reality.
 The syndicate already has arranged for landing grounds in all parts of Great Britain, the largest but two miles outside Liverpool.
 The liners each are to carry 150 passengers, half first class, half second class, besides their crews.
 Schedules from Liverpool to the fol- inminp nninfS haun haan ruorl-od ..,+.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

events the matches will be the best three out of five sets.
 Play will commence each schedule day at S:30 a. m. Players not report ing within 15 minutes after they are called for match, will be defaulted. Tentative schedules for each days play will be published in the morning paper, but these schedules must not be taken as conclusive, as the committee re- serves the right to change the schedule at any time.
 Rules
 The laws of play of the United States National Lawn Tennis association will govern all matches.
 No player will be allowed to enter more than two of the scheduled evenss. Veterans events will be limited to men of 40 years of age or over. (Men who will reach the age of 40 prior to December 31, 1919, will be eligible). Super-Veterans singles will be con- fined to those who contested in the Arizona state championships of 1894.
 Official Referee
 A. T. Thomson of Douglas, Arizona, has been asked to act as official ref cree.
 Balls
 Wright and Ditson championship tennis balls will be used in all matches. General
 The Tucson Golf and Country club extends to all a most cordial and hearty invitation to attend, and would respectfully urge that you forward your entries at us early date as pos sible. Upon advices any reservations desired will be more than gladly made. There will be a dance for the visitors at the Country club, Saturday evening, October 25. 1919, and tea will be served Sunday afternoon. between 4 and o'clock, October 26, 1919.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
Produce

A carload of bananas are due to arrive in Phoenix today, which ship ment will partially relieve the present shortage. The demand for bananas here has far surpassed the supply for the past several weeks.
 A car of mixed fruit and vegetables is also expected this morning as well as two more cars of Flagstaff potatoes The first car of cranberries is expected sometime today
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

It makes no difference what youl wants may be you can have them sup piled by using and reading The Repub. lican Classified Pages.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

It makes no difference what your wants may be you can have them sup piled by using and reading The Repub- lican Classified Pages-Arizona's lead ing advertising medium.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21
GRAIN

CHICAGO, Oct. 20-Close:
 Corn-Dec- s1.251s; May, s1.2SA. Oats-Dec- 71Ac; May, 74hc. Pork-Oct-, s41.50; Jan., s33.00. Lard-Nov.. s2645; Jan, $24.45 Ribs-Oct, s1S50; Jan, s17.57.
Arizona republican., 1919-10-21

Use The Republican Classified Pages for Results-Read for Profit.
Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1919-02-14
YANKS ROUT REDS"
U. S. TROOPS IMPLICIT HEAVY
LOSSES ON ANARCHISTS.
Two Divisions of Anarchists Annihi
lated by Siberian Force Under
General Gaida.

Archangel, Feb. 7.-Heavy losses
were inflicted on the anarchists by the
American forces. The enemy was
driven back in disorder from the vii
lage Of Vistavka, on the Vaga.
The American casualties were five
killed and several wounded. Many an.
archist soldiers were taken prisoner
by the Americans.
The enemy early in the morning be
gan bombardment with field guns
and howitzers, and under cover of a
shrapnel and pompom barrage essayed
a frontal attack with infantry in the
afternoon
The American troops, who were
rested after their retirement from
Shenkursk and were now established
in good position, poured heavy fire
from artillery and machine guns into
the charging anarchists.
Omsk, Feb. 1.-Two divisions of
anarchists have been virtually ami.
hilated by Siberian troops under Gen
eral Gaida at Kungur, 30 miles south
east of Perm, according to an official
statement issued here.