davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-04-27
Summer Outfits Offering
Both Economy and Charm

skirt of this sort with its dark back
ground relieved by overplaids in gay.
bright colors Is excellent for mountain
and seashore and in way IL far moro
satisfactory than the plain serges.
No material has ever been lovelier
than the silk reps which are now
"in" again and which drape beautifully
and look so well. One of the ways
Of using the silk reps and poplins
10 that of adding pockets and hens
of angora and belt of some good an
CORA color. This fabric seems to be
destined to trim all of our summer
sports clothes, as one finds it now
edging tunics. sweaters. blouses-
everything. even organdy. Angora
cloth can DO bought by the yard and
in many lovely colors. The knitted
fabric, which is extensively employed
for golf skirts and capes, is also now
to be purchased by the yard and it,
too is edged with this angora cloth.
The shaggy surface of the latter makes
an excellent finish and trimming.
AS to skirts for elaborate occasions,
the sports satins are the most de-
sired, as I said in the beginning, and
the rougher finishes, khaki cools and
the silk jerseys come next. Silk serve
too, is much in favor-it is lovely and
expensive and for time will not be
within reach of the average purse.
1t seems a queer fancy to make
skirts of thin materials. such as
georgette and silk voiles, but they are
satisfactory in the extreme and very
smart. l find pink indestructible
wolfe with hem knee deep and a
group Of four one inch tucks above
this. The fulness is gathered on the
waist band and wide belt of the
wolfe is worn. White wolfe makes a
beautiful skirt when 1t has an added
hem of the white angora.
So many women have proved with
satisfaction the economy and success
Of choosing one color for the entire
wardrobe that more and more arc
| adopting the fashion. II one color
say blue-is selected, nearly every
thing becomes interchangeable, so to
speak, and hats. blouses. skirts, Capes,
sweaters and coats will all match and
agree with one another without dis
cord 1t is not always easy 10 bring
about color harmony unless a color
scheme is adopted. For this reason
so many select white and do not trim
with colors.
The white duck suits of long ago
are in favor again. While they all re-
veal the plain straight. round and UNI
ornamented skirts such as have been
describing. many have little jackets
more or less elaborate. One shows
the jacket of oyster white macramc
lace to which the long sleeves of the
white duck have been added. Again
short coats as plain and severe as
those worn by naval officers are very
smart and new, buttoning in the same
double breasted way. One may say
they are copied exactly from the naval
summer Jacket.
The sun., 1919-04-27
General Utility Fabrics to Be Seen in
Plain Shirtwaist Effect With Frills
of Linen for Collars and Cuffs

signs Of calico. but are of finer texture
and cost very much more-95 cents a
yord-those really from Great Britain.
For the most part the prints are made
up in plain shirt waist effect, with
some frills of linen for collars and cuffs
and a bit Of ornamentation down the
front of the blouse. AS the material Is
substantial In texture and we'll COW
cred by the quaint designs over the
surface little trimming Is needed, and
there Is not much that can be success
fully combined. Plain linen collars
and cuffs and small hemstitched frills
OF white to relieve the monotony are
about the only really good things to
use. Belts Of patent leather or Of the
material finish the waist.
One Of the new old colors is a queer
sort Of brick yellow red background
with very tiny yellow flowers scattered
thiclSly over tho surface 1t seems to
me this sort Of material calls for old
fashioned companions such as ric-rac
braid and piping. l observe many in
destructible voiles and georgettes
with printed designs trimmed with
pointed scallops exactly like the ric-rac
braid and made of organdy. They are
easy enough to make by stitching on
the sewing machine in the pointed,
The sun., 1919-04-27

net dress is having revival. 1t is
so entrancingly lovely that every wo-
man will hail 1t with joy. The colored
tiouncings with wide, sprawling flow
ers are extensively used. ] recall a
particularly pleasing dinner frock OF
sky blue net flowers over a petticoat
Of blue which deepened the color and
lent tone to the big white roses sprawl
ing along the edge of the flounce. The
skirt was, in reality. series of three
flounces placed one above the other.
and the bodice was a repetition of
the fiouncing cleverly placed in up
and down effect to give the desired long
lines. A wide tulle sash finished the
waist and fiufred out in n soft bow AZ
one side. The sleeves opened NJ the
shoulders to show the arm and hung
iii drapery of the fiounCing and tulle
to form sort of underneath sleeve.
Such a demand there seems to be
for these colored nets that edges of
colored nets are added to the white
| flouncings. One frock of this sort
(made like the one above OF wide
The sun., 1919-04-27

tiounces placed one above the other to
form the skirt) has each fiounce
edged with black footing. and to give
some tone and likewise save this
frock from monotony very lively
sash of apple green satin is caught
around the waist and left to drape
softly down the side toward the back
of the skirt The waist is slightly
overhung In the back to give a short
Jacket effect and the flouncing Is
placed down the sides of the front
likewise to produce this wee jacket
idea. a vestee of black net corre-
spending to the edge along the flounces
finishes the front and Is set of with
tiny pearl buttons.
Tho demand for the Coloren nets
goes on. No gown IS prettler than the
gown Of all white net \ cream color
is combined with a lace of some sort
preferably filet, though the wide Val
enciennes are excellent. Apropos OF
| the use OF lace, which Is so extensive
this summer. It begins TO look as IL the
heavy macrame was in again--all OF
The sun., 1919-04-27

Charity. was held in the ballroom Of
Delmonco's Saturday afternoon. His
trace Archbishop Hayes presided and
addition to the reports Of the various
'ommittees covering All fields of social
service addresses We're made by the
moderator, the Rev. Vincent de Paul
Mclean; Judge Franklin c. Hoyt OF
the ChildrenS Court and William j.
Nullisan of the overseas service OF the
knights OF Columbus The Officers OF
the association are: President. Countess
GeorEine Iselin; vice-presidents. Mrs.
Joseph Slevn, Jr., Countess de Laug!er-
Nillars, Mrs Nicholas F. Brady and Mrs.
n. Gloster Armstrong: treasurer. Mrs.
Thomas Hughes Kelly; secretary. Miss
Teresa X. ODonohuc. and executive sec
rotary, Miss Adele lie Barber.
The Operctta Club, under the direction
or Mrs. Rosa Linde Wright president.
contributed TO the Easter festivities Of
81 Luke's Home for Aged Gentlewomcn
,aSt week by performance OF IA
itas, compiled by the president. Anonp
ne musical numbers were the harcarol.
from Tales Of Hoffman" "Nadelon 4"
over There" "Florians Love song.
Nv GODDARD Il gavotte, Countess in Thy
dancing, and selections from The Bet
Ter Ole, Among the members who an
peared were the Misses A. Roslch. X r.
Pupella. NJ. +. Huson. Alice KIley. Rose
hocito and the Messrs II. r. Aiger. r.
H. schrecker and NJ. Yamin.
The sun., 1919-04-27

nor many a woman in average
r. circumstances a summer outfit
- means one or two new separate
skirts, as many new blouses as her
purse will allow and as many sweaters
as she has time to make. Add a wide
brimmed hat and a pair OF good white
shoes and one can manage a summer
wardrobe as successfully as moderate
demands require. OF course the charm
of our thin summer apparel lies in
It's perfect freshness and exquisite
daintiness, and these qualities undeni-
ably can be achieved even by the most
meagre incomes II one SO determines.
Some clever women who make u
sweater and separate skirts answer
their needs are wearing the long
sleeved sweaters over fine camisoles
and without blouse underneath, set
ting the sweater off with fine cuffs
and wide collars Of lace and lawn.
Naturally the sweaters worn thus are
the slip-on type and generally are Of
navy blue or white. AS to the skirts,
which are so essential q part of the
summers outfit, nothing ever was
prettier or more satisfactory than
the sports satins or rough surfa ced
silks. II we are considering the mat
ter Of economy they are the things
for first consideration, for while the
satins can be successfully laundered.
they can be used a long time with
out. and do not rumple as wash ma
terials will do. Again the colors are
30 enchanting, and. now that such a
Of N,,t
one has endless shades to choose from.
Because the new sports satins have
!. weave which Is disable in the re-
verse side some Of the new skirts
have hens. pockets and belts fashioned
Of the reverse side OF the material For
the most part these sports skirts all
have the straight round lines we have
had now for a number Of years and
| the fulness is gathered in at the band
and distributed evenly quite around
| the waist. Wide belts Of the satin are
worn with them and fasten at one
| side with large pearl buttons. The
hens along the bottom OF the Skin,
are deep. though in the new weaves II
| is possible to make the skirt OF the
width Of the material and then the sell.
wage is used and no hem. This ef-
feet will prevail. as It saves time, la.
Dor and extra material. The tan silks
such as we have seen in standings
pongees and rajahs are very smart
| this year. Some are cleverly trimmed
with foulards or surahs appliqued ir
| some clever way. While for the most
| part these also are made in the straight
| round way as l have mentioned. one
finds them now and then with pleated
sides put in from waist to hem.
For the general utility skirt the
| fine pla!ds still rule They are made
Of such fine. soft materials that one
does rot wonder. and the plaid colors
are SO beautifully mingled that one
| can hardly resist them. After all, 9
The sun., 1919-04-27
By MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON.

THE time is at hand to consider
the cotton frock. All Of US
u have a notion that summer
dresses are easy enough to make. and
SO they are; but since such attractive
ones. needing slight alteration, can be
bought, few of US do. Indeed. some
times think that home dressmak-
ing has vanished almost entirely, es-
pecially in large cities where every
thing can DO bought ready for imme.
date wear. Perhaps there will be a
revival this summer, since the demand
for knitting and sewing for the SOL
diers Is not SO urgent and women can
turn their attention to former occupa-
tions. I find a basis for this thought
In the vast number of hand made and
embroidered. befrilled and bestitched
dresses l have seen, not only for chill
dren but for grown-ups as we'll.
Heading the procession of cotton
fabrics for general utility frocks come
the English prints. They reveal the
same quaint and old fashioned de-
The sun., 1919-04-27

of dresses have successfully combined
1t with net OF fine mesh and soft, mar
row Valenciennes lace. One of the
most charming summer dresses of this
material Is made OF cream colored
Swiss with the simplest straight lines
revealed in a round skirt with a four
inch hem. The waist, OF shirtwaist
plainness. has deep wide fchu OF
cream net and Valenciennes lace,
crossing after the Marie Antoinette
fashion in front and extending in
loose, overlapped loops in the back,
where it reaches almost to the hem
The sleeves are longer than the bebe
sleeves the French send us and stop
Just at the elbow. The colorud Swiss
Is much in demand-the soft ye,lows.
blues and pinks, and they, too, combine
successfully with puffs OF net and the
old fashioned footing we have not used
in many years.
As to the materials used for elabo-
rate occasions such as club dances.
house party dinners and garden par
ties, net is in the lead. In fact the
The sun., 1919-04-27
MOVIE ACTR SIS S AND
TIL II HAIR

Did it ever occur to you that every
movie actress you have seen has
lovely hair, while the most popular
count their curls as their chief
beauty? In fact, many are leading
ladies just because of their attrac-
tive looks. Inquiry among them dis
closes the fact that they bring out
all the natural beauty OF their hair
by careful shampooing, not with any
soap or makeshift, but with a sim
pie mixture by putting a teaspoon
full of canthrox (Which they get
from the druggist in a cup Of hot
water and applying this instead of
soap. This full cup of shampoo
liquid is enough so it is easy to apply
it to all the hair instead of Just the
top of the head After its use. the
hair dries RAPIDLY with uniform
color. Dandruff. excess oil and dirt
are dissolved and entirely disappear.
The hair is so fluffy that il iooks
much heavier than it is, its lustey,
ana S0ttntl NJ Az
The sun., 1919-04-27

zigzag way and using them as an
edge for sashes, SUPPLIES and sleeve
trimmings.
We all know the vogue organdy has
had for two seasons now. vogue only
slightly abated this summer. The
crisp loneliness Of organdy and its
enhancing colors make 1t always de-
sirable, but the lovely dotted swiss
cloth and fine nets are crowding it out
Of first rank this year. One still sees
lovely organdy frocks with frills and
tucks in plenty. and have recently
found fashion of draping the thin
sheer organdy over a slip of coarse
white net which gives a most unusual
and attractive effect. When these
net slips are used they are fashioned
on the long princess lines or caught
in at tho waist like a camisole
Deep fiounces Of lace are added along
the bottom Of the skirt, Just as one
would trim q petticoat. In nearly
every instance where the net IL thus
used the outside skirt IL left untucked
and plain except for a deep hem and
perhaps a cluster Of double frills at
the top. Let us not forget the frills
this summer, for never was there a
time when ruffles were SO much worn.
Everything is. done with them and
they trim everything. Knife pleated
and hung at the sides Of skirt, or
gathered and placed one after the
other upside down on skirts, they are
employed lavishly. OF course this
fashion has been simplified for the
home dressmakers. for 1t is possible
to buy all such by the yard, ready
to sew right into place all hemmed
and befrilled.
AS to the dotted Swim-the makers
The sun., 1919-04-27

lowed the folles, the many specialt!es
being presented by Capt. n. S. Cullin,
Mrs. William James Buisell. William
Johnson, Mrs. n S Cullin, Mrs. A. II
Affeltine, T. Graham, Miss Ethel
Maeder, Miss Grace Brown and John
+. Maffey. At the close Of the luncheon
a committee of theatre assembly men,
bers, headed by Mrs. F. F. Thul, pre-
scented to Mrs. Marks a purse of gold.
The afternoon concluded with dancing,
music for which was furnished by the
L. S. S. Recruit Band.
Among the hostesseS at the various
tables were Mrs. Dora Davis, Mrs +.
ID. Mittower, Mrs. James Gormley, Mrs.
Charles Hotchklss, Mrs. James w. Rob
ns, Mrs. Charles Ledyard. Mrs. A.
Chureborough. Mrs, +. +. THU, Mrs.
Albert Leon Page, Mrs. William James
Busell, Mrs. John Martin Scoble, Mrs.
Louise Ninver. Mrs William Barden-
heuer, Miss Mary Dufry. Mrs. j. Nc
Beresford Mrs. c. l.. Creig, Mrs. Lillian
Bradley, Mrs. James Bouton, Mrs.
William II. Maxwell. Mrs Ann Coch-
rane, Mrs. +. ii. Mouney Mrs. William
Baker, Mrs. Charles Seligman, Mrs G.
w. Hutchinson. Mrs Herbert Smyths,
Mrs Isabel Graham, Mrs. e, J. Sutton.
Mrs. w. f. Lewis Mrs. w. r. Spies,
Mrs f. q. Williams, Mrs. L. 8. Bar
rett, Mrs. John j. Sheehan, Mrs. Pela
Maeder, Mrs Anna Tester, Mrs. Harry
Doremus, Mrs. Ada Conrad. Mrs. Lola
Marrer, Mrs, william J. Ranch, Mrs
Andrew jackson Cobe, Mrs. l.. f. Guin,
Mrs. Frederick Fried, Mrs. John Cur
ries. Mrs, Forrest Trim. Mrs. II. Hirsch-
berg, Mrs. B. J. Forsythe, Mrs. A. J.
Forman, Mrs, Kenneth Lee, Mrs. William
II. Stewart Mrs. w. C. Penton. Mrs
A. ii, Affeltine, Mrs, Howard Sullivan,
Mrs. John Money, Mrs. Samuel Red
fern and Mrs Charles Niedner.
The sixth concert Of the Glee Club of
the Friendly Sons OF St Patrick. one
Of the most popular OF male singing so.
cieties, WIN be held tomorrow evening
at the Hotel Aston. The concert will
ne followed by a supper and Victory
dance. William J. Clarke Is president
and Victor Herbert Is honorary vice.
president, Under the leadership of
George II. Gartlan the club took part in
number OF entertainments during the
past season and sang at various camps
and environments John Finnegau.
tenor. will be one OF the soloists to-mor-
row night Others are Kathleen Law
Ter and Miss Fay Forster the com
Doser, whose song THE Americans
come" will he sung with the entire. club
and accompanied by her on the piano.
The New Ireland" the words of which
we're written by Joseph I. G. Clarke and
the music by Victor Herbert. WIN also
The sun., 1919-04-27

US recall the days Of dyed laces when
we rushed about frantically with n
sample of "our" dress in one hand and
the lace to be dyed to match in the
other. These laces are in again, and as
they can now be bought in almost
every color we can accept them and
use them as lav'shly as we can afford.
As the nlacrame is so heavy and so
loosely fashioned and requires there
fore some sort Of lining It Is most
often seen in Jackets for linen or
crash frocks and as banding in the
same sort of skirts.
To return a moment to the nets,
one of the interesting ways Of using
this popular material il that Of long
slip of the net. slightly hobbled in at
The sun., 1919-04-27

re a feature Of the programme. This
iii include Shakespeare lyrics from
Henry VIII" and Twelfth Night
music by Augustus Barrett. and "Locb
nvar." Sir Walter Scott's poem. set to
music, by William G. Hammond.
Tho Iowa Club had its authors day
meeting Friday afternoon at the Hotel
Aston under the Craftsmanship OF Mrs
lanes Clarkson and Mrs. John Alden
Miss Elizabeth Kite OF Philadelphia was
ne Of the speakers and took for her
subject Our Debt to France" Julius
Chambers at Fridays meeting gave a
talk on when the West Comes East"
and there were musical numbers and
original songs by Mrs Caroline Shaver.
A May Day card party Will be given
by the Daughters OF Ohio in New York,
Mrs. William J. CAuthers president
Thursday afternoon at the Hotel Hamil-
ton, 143 West Seventy-third street
There will be n prize for each table and
after the games tea will be served. The
arrangements are In charge of the ex-
ecutive committee. and includes Mrs.
John G.. Pheil, chairman Mrs w. O.,
Bonner, Mrs. Charles Is. Gallager, Mrs.
w. o. Jacquette. Mrs. Dudley r Lari-
more and Miss Frances Lurkins.
The Woman's Republican Association
Of the State of New York. Mrs. John
Francis Yawger president, will give a
luncheon Wednesday at the Hotel Aston.
The guests of honor will be Congress-
man J. W. Fordney OF Michigan. United
States Senator James w. Wadsworth,
Jr,. OF New York. United States Sena-
tor James f. Watson Of Indiana. United
States Senator william A. Calder of
New York. Lieut,-Col. Theodore Roose-
velt Robert Bacon and Francis NJ
Hugo. Secretary OF State.
The annual meeting and election OF
officers will be held at IL o'clock and
plans outlined for the organization OF
the Republican women Of the State for
1920. Clubs are to be formed through
out the State with provision for repre-
sentation and membership In the State
association. Tickets may be obtained
from Mrs. Stanley Lyman Otis. chair
man Of luncheon committee. 40s Edge
combe avenue.
The next regular meeting Of the
woman's Press Club Is announced for
May 10. 1t will be held, as usual. at
the Waldorf. Astoria, In tho assembly
room.
A Students Concert was given Thurs
hay evening in the auditorium of the
New York College Of Music. l1s East
Fifty-eighth street. Numbers by Bseth-
oven, Chopin. Grisg. Mcdowell, Dsbussy.
ana Puccini were presented by Miss
The sun., 1919-04-27
Dotted Swiss Cloth Crowds Organdy
From First Place-Net Dresses in
Vogue for Elaborate Occasions

the ankles with bands Of organdy and
fine lace and worn under long Rus
san blouse OF rough silk heavily en-
broidered along its edge. I dare say
this long blouse should really be called
a tunic-it is sleeveless and caught in
at the waist with heavy white cot
ton cord finished with tassels. and the
round neck reveals a guimpe Of the
net with rolling, low collar Of organdy
and lace, the same being made into
very deep cuffs. fiaring back to the ell
bow. The particular dress Of this sort
which have been cr.blng revealed
an orchid colored tunic over the net
foundation and a very lovely ono Of
the same shape showed a white tunic
heavily embroidered in white.
The sun., 1919-04-27

Luella Lindsay, Carl Oberhrunner, Mrs
harcelle Glichis, Miss Ruth Benz, Her
man Buehler Julius Truneck, Miss An
oinette Meyer. Miss Florence Gwynne.
Miss Ruth Ruttkay. Mrs. c. Franz and
Miss Anna Pinto.
"A Grand Bal Militaire" will be given
Tuesday evening at the Hotel des Ar
'istes by the University Forum OF Amer
lea, DR. Alexander Cumming PRESIDENT
DIR. Cumming will be chairman of the
evening and Mrs. Albert Douglas, the
hostess. Officers OF the Allied armies
and navles, United States Senator Will
lam NJ. Calder and Blanche Bates will
be the guests OF honor. The Forum gave
an Officers Ball. Tuesday for the Off
GERS of the visiting American fleet Rus
sell F. Stryker. OF Columbia University,
was chairman of the evening. and Mrs
J. Walter Robertson. Mrs. Margaret
| Scovill. Mrs. Lillian Smith. Miss eileen
Scovill, Miss Donna NJ. Love and Miss
Olive Windette were hostesses.
The Womans Organization of the
Riverside Republican Club, Ninth As
| sembly district, will give an apron
and Necktie Party" Tomorrow oven-
ing at the club house. 1857 West Ninety
seNtHlH street. MTs hAtnerlne Il. HAM
mer will be the chairman. and Mrs
Charles F. Heydt the hostess. Assisting
Mrs Heydt will he Mr.. and Mrs Edward
r, McInnes, Mr.. and Mrs. Roy Paulding,
Mr.. and Mrs. Samuel Marks, Willard
II Ellison, Miss Elizabeth F. Reed,
Miss Henrietta Saulter. Miss Agnes
Bauer, Miss Laura Cook. Miss Agnes
Rogers, Miss Emily L. Newman and
Miss Caroline r. Whlttendale. The
women Will give tea this afternoon at
the club house.
Rubinstein's sixteenth annual White
Breakfast Saturday will take the form
OF Peace Jubilee. and as usual will
be held In the ballroom of the Waldorf
Astoria. Not only will the foraI
decorations be white. but the members
have been particularly requested to
wear white gowns and hats, and their
guests also are requested to be In
white. Those who for any reason do
not care to carry out this suggestion
will have luncheon tables provided for
item in the upper gallery boxes, where
men guests will also be entertained
The breakfast will be followed by pro-
gre mme and this by dancing. Tickets
can be had from the president. Mrs
William Rogers Chapman. the Waldorf
Astoria.
A performance OF 1.-THE Little Jour
n"y" was given at the Vanderbilt The
ltSI Tuesday evening under tha ans