davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1919-07-17

production.
Of viii is be at
Olive
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1919-07-17

Enid Bennett completed Cav Fort,
is her is
but she insiststhst spending
much
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1919-07-17

n a
eless has its the conclusion Of Eugene
perhsp,
be a villain.
The sun., 1919-05-11

frock the touch Of a Japanese couture
makes the resemblance perfect.
1t Is not probable that we OF this
country will begin to paint our eyes
in an oblique line, as women are doing
abroad, in order to make the facial ex-
preston correspond to the costume
and the couture, but It Is rather inter-
esting to know that 1t Is being done.
Ingenuity has had a wide fling in
headdresses. This is evident from the
absence of commonplace ideas. What
ever is traditional has been omitted.
Even the turban of cloth Of gold,
which has been lifted from the battle
fields that lie below the Mediterranean,
has an immense plume that falls over
the shoulder to the bust instead Of
rising stlffly from the middle of the
forehead. as one would expect it to do
This trick Is quite successful because
II Is becoming. The thickest and
longest ostrich feather is used and II
Is dyed in brilliant colors like cherry,
or bishop purple, or bright blue. This
type of turban is so gorgeous that It
Is only worn with a frock of supple
brocade or satin. and sometimes dead
white satin at that.
There is a curious tendency shown
by several Of the best turbans to let
their trimming droop downward in
stead OF mounting upward One of
the extremely successful theatre tur-
bans, made Of black tulle, is wrapped
about the head in the ancient way
and has a thick paradise that falls
downward over .the cheekbones and
curls under the chin. This is worn
with a black tulle gown which has
shoulder straps OF Jet.
There is Grecian turban of golden
brown silk tulle which ats over the
coiffure and makes one think It Is hair
and not net. II IL held IN tha haod
The sun., 1919-05-11
THE LINGERIE.

The pencil silhouette that still pre-
walls is not merely a matter OF the
frocks one wears or the stays beneath
them, but the lingerie worn with them
has had its share in producing this
hipless appearance. So as skirts
shorten or widen, lengthen or grow
narrow. the lingerie designer must
alter her plans.
Tho complete change in skirt pro-
portions that has taken place has
called for a right about in petticoat
construction and recently the lingerie
makers have been confronted with the
problem Of making q suitable slip to
be worn with the chemise frocks that
still are worn.
More and more interest is taken ia,
childreh's underwear, and nowadays
the daintiest fabrics are used for il.
To be sure, the sensible mother buys
nothing but muslin of some kind, for
only those fabrics which launder read
lily are suitable for children.
The sun., 1919-05-11

with wide bands Of dull gold, which are
caught behind the ears with Roman
coins. This was worn by a young
woman who was sufficiently clever to
mount IL above a Grecian frock of pale
yellow crepe de chine, caught UP on the
shoulders with garlands Of yellow satin
roses.
Women have also shown themselves
clever in adapting the Oriental turbans
to a half deoolletage rather than an
extremely low one. They have given
the bandeau, with It's uprising osprey,
the place Of honor with the new back
less bodices that are being exploited
wherever people flock together to dance
or to see the play. These bodices are
sometimes shocking, again they are
rather attractive. One Of the new
tricks Is to tie the sides OF the bodice
to the shoulder straps with a bow Of
tulle or satin ribbon.
VIII We Exaggerate ItS
No doubt much that is hideous will
be evolved from these attractive head
dresses before the season is finished.
All women are not artists. and even ar
lists indulge In far too much license at
times. We may live to deplore the re-
turn Of a period Of ornamental hair
dressing. There may come. even In six
months time. drastic upheaval which
will signify a protest against It and
bring US to some type of severe hair
dressing, In repetition Of what occurred
when Marie Antoinette was Queen of
France.
Hair dressing reached Its apex al
that hour. AS some seers have said, il
grew as high as the guillotine, which
finally ended It 1t has been a feature
Of fashion that women have never
played with gently; not only in France
but in England. in Holland and in the
The sun., 1919-05-11

der tho auspices Of tho women's Inter
national Auxiliary OF the Daily Vacation
Bible Schools Thursday at the Hotel AS
tor. The artists were Miss Maud Farrar.
violinist. and Nine Flora Van Weston,
Dutch contralto.
At the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel Monday
Sorosis. Mrs. John Lewis Childs. presi-
dent. had social day and luncheon May
Preston Slosson. chairman OF literature.
had charge OF the day. Marie Caselotti
sang and Florence De Gran Shaw spoke
on THE Best Book OF the Year"
Sorosis will have business meeting
and luncheon in the Waldorf apartment
OF the Waldorf-Astoria May 10.
Tho National California Club an
nounces its next meeting will be held
May 20 at the Waldorf-Astoria. Mrs,
Thomas Vivian is president of the club.
The Victory Club. S4S West End ave-
nue., Miss Norma Drew president, gave
its twenty-fourth entertainment recently,
musical and dance in honor OF Lieut..
Victor Le Noir. who distinguished him
self In overseas service. As a souvenir
OF the occasion the members presented
TO him n travelling bag. The musical
programme was performed by Irwin
Hassen. George Dostal. Mabel Hassell
and Florence Stern Of San Francisco. an
eeven-year-old violinist Miss Rather
Inc Nelson was at the plano. A large
birthday cake representing the shield
OF the United States. with the American
eagle and toy airplane lowering over
II. was feature OF tho supper. Among
the members present were Lieut. Valen-
tine Drougard. Lieut. Andrew Mcdonald,
Lieut. Charles Sugar and Lieut.. r ".
Clark. Air Service: Lieuts Bernard
Blachere. Roy d. Wilcox. Albert WaR-
ner, Aubin T. King and C. II. Grayson /;
Guido Giovannozzi Martin Charles An
sorge, John Stoddard. Hooper Hood. Ed
ward III. Brown, Thomas e Huser, II.
Kafarof and Herbert Hartman Hatch /;
Misses Ethelyn Beauregard Crusel, Vir-
ginia Dale, Emily Wills. Alice and Fan
ME Fay, Virginia Henson. Dorothy
Haight. Edna Weldon. Annette Moore,
Mae Iilingworth. Jeanette Krouper, Ger
aldine Stanley. Mar1ory Napier. Lucille
and Grace Hill. Viola Dingleman, Flnita
De Soria, A. W. Buel. Alice Gardin,
Gabel Prentiss, Isabel Rea and MadRe
Withnan
The Univer sity Forum of America. DIR.
Alexander Cumming president, will have
one OF its assembly dances Tuesday
evening at tho clubs headquarters, 2O3
West Ninety-third street In addition
to dancing there will be a musical pro-
gramme by Miss Lillian Carlquist, 80
prano; Miss Josephine Thomson, cor
! tralto. and Mrs Minnie Westerfield.
pianist TRD hssts1 81 the seeming Will
The sun., 1919-05-11

oandeaux then one gets into the
Grecian style. and the gown must cor
respond. The japanese couture is lin
TIED to very few types OF costume
but 1t Is receiving an immense i'm
petus toward success in both Europe
and America.
Do not let the mind leap to a con-
generation Of fans and dangling or
naments with huge pillows over the
ears when thinking Of the Japanese
couture. The effort Of smart women
who adopt 1t is to see that the hair is
highly brilliantined, SO that 1t appears
vanished; that it goes sleekly back
from the forehead, and has n decided
point In front which is put there by
art, II nature has failed to imprint It
on the physiogomy. Some people are
born with this touch of beauty. but
they are very few. and those who are
clever In the art of making I'D have
learned to pun the hair slightly down.
ward with brilliantined comb and ac-
centuate the point by shadowy crayon
work.
or course all this ornamentation Is
put on the hair for the evening. The
Japanese coiffure means nothing In
the day, because we continue to wear
our hats on a level with the eyebrows.
II is not an impossibility to get hold
Of afternoon house gowns or evening
gowns that go with the japanese Golf
fure. for the Paris and American de-
signers drew much OF their inspira
ton from japan when they created this
seasons output of clothes. The fig
ured brocades, the immense sashes
the butterfly bow at the back, the
three-quarter open sleeve, the draw.
ing upward Of the skirt from the end
OF the spine to the front OF the waist
are each and all Japanese features
! When these are incorporated into q
The sun., 1919-05-11

IN THE WORLD OF SOCTF'

ming for the benefit OF that organiza-
TONS war orphans fund. The pro-
gramme consisted of "One Hour of
Exquisite Art" followed by Vial
Masque." 1t was given in the ballroom,
which was donated for the occasion.
The artists were Nine. Mai Kalna. Mile.
Hortense Dodvalle, Miss Lydia Fer
guson. Manolito Fumes. John Corigliano,
Mile. Simone Daudira, Mile. Anna Lubel-
ski. Mile. Gertrude Moody. Mr.. Regne
and Miss Edith Terry.
The patrons and patronesses were,
ex-Gov and Mrs. Charles S, Whitman,
Countess Olaeta. Mrs. A. Maclay Pentz.
Mr.. and Mrs James Montgomery Flagg,
Baronne d'Etreillls, Nine Sylvie Mon
tagu, Mrs Simon Baruch, Mrs B. A.
Duis, Mrs. Harry Lilly. Mr.. and Mrs.
Eugene ]. Grant. Mr.. and Mrs. John
Francis Yawger. Mrs. Charles II. Grif-
An, Mrs. Florence Foster Jenkins, Mrs.
Marie Louise Rimes. Mrs. Myra King
man Miller, Mrs, Hoard. Mrs. Philip
Simon, Mr.. and Mrs. Alfred Saunders.
Mrs. W. T. Cornell Major Betty E.
Owens, Mrs William d. Sporborg, Mr.
and Mrs. George V. Maynard, Miss
Edith Terry. Mrs. Meysa Hewlett, Mrs
f. r. Smith. A. Maclay Pentz. Com
mander Marsden. DR.. Robert Good. Dr.
Merriman. Adrian Hegeman and the
Rev. Edmund Banks Smith, D. D.
The Women's National League OF Ma
tons met on Thursday afternoon at the
Hotel Marseilles. Mrs. May Wilkinson
Mount was chairman of the day.
Among the speakers was Charles L.
Clist.
Nine Aida Tanini-Tag liavia, president
OF the Beethoven Society, will give a
luncheon and bridge party for the Of
ficers and directors on Tuesday at her
residence, SO West Seventy-fourth street
Mrs. q. A. Winternitz gave an infor-
NAL farewell tea 10 a number of young
people Thursday afternoon for her niece,
Miss Elisabeth Winterrhtz. who left
Friday for her home in Colorado
Springs.
Daughters OF Ohio in New York, Mrs
William j. Caruthers president, will
held their final meeting of the season
Tomorrow at the Waldorf-Astoria, when
the election of officers will take place.
The annual luncheon OF tho Washing
ton Heights Chapter Daughters OF the
American Revolution was held yester-
day at the Hotel Blltmore. There were
present many prominent speakers and
music was a feature OF the programme.
The chapter will have its annual church
! service this evening at the Chapel of the
Intercession, Broadway and 10Th street.
The sun., 1919-05-11
RETURN OF FANTASTIC HEAD DRESSES STARTLES THE PUBL
Fashionable Women Adopt Striking Styles Started on
Stage in Paris-Grecan, Persian and Japanese
Types Among Those in Vogue

TT Is only in certain epoohs Of The
worlds history that women take
i interest In ornamental and fan
,a,tIc hair dressing. Such an epoch
pox dawns. One can sec tho rosy
fingered lights appearing above the
lorizon.
But there Is no cause for the hair
dressers to leap with Joy, for the type
NJ ornamentation that is put on the
colfure is not Of their making. 1t may
be in Paris; It is not in America In
This country the milliners attend to
whatever is ornamental on the head
The hair dressers are busily absorbed
keeping the hair in condition, cutting
II. curling 1t. 1t seems they have
fenty to do. Even in the smaller
towns It Is often necessary TO make an
engagement a week In advance for
thirty minutes work.
Perhaps one should use the WORD
head dress" instead of chair dress In
referring to the new type Of couture.
Some of it so completely covers the
head that ono suspects a hasty and
careless pitching together Of the locks
beneath 1t. Certainly II Is q tempta-
ton to adopt the type Of hair dress
that permits one to eschew the curling
non. the permanent wave and the hair
net. 1t might be a good idea to give
the hair rest for half a year from all
the tortures expended on 1t In the
name OF fashion and smart dressing.
So that the Indian turban, the Juliette
cap and the Arabian swathings do lit
tie damage to the hair.
Women have already begun to go
about in the evening with their heads
adorned in the way that has always
been considered necessary in those
ultra-civilized countries that lie below
the Mediterranean Sea In large sec
tors Of American society this ornamen-
tai head dress had not taken hold, but
Judging by the extraordinary popular
ity OF the Castle cap and the Castle
tandeau throughout the urban. subur-
ban and rural free delivery districts Of
this continent one is inclined to believe
that the bit of something ornamental
In the hair will soon be demanded by
those who live far from the congested
districts Of high fashion.
Worn With High Neck Gowns.
The fashion began in Paris a year
ago The women took 1t up because
they were not permitted to wear low
gowns In the evening. They felt the
need Of some sartorial gayety about
their costumes. SO they tucked things
in and over their hair.
The stage exploited the idea to such
an extent that It became q right sub
ject for the cartoonists. Such women
as Gaby Deslys and Mistinguett-
both idols Of the American soldiers
made their fantastic head dress the
most notable things IN their perform
ances. What the stage accentuates
and exaggerates the public mobiles
and accepts.
When Mrs. woodrow Wilson ap-
peared at tho opening OF the opera in
Paris she yielded to the new fashion,
and wore around her dark hair several
bandeaux Of Jet and diamonds with
fountain sprays at the side Every
woman in the opera house. II was said
wore some distinguishing head dress
and the reporters spent their time list
ing the ornamented heads. rather than
The sun., 1919-05-11

Inc sermon Will be by the vicar. the
Kew DR.. Milo II. Gates, the chapters
chaplain. There will be patriotic music,
and all Daughters OF the American
ReVoiueon are invited to be present At
the annual meeting OF the Washington
Heights Chapter held last month AT
Washington's headquarters, l60th street
and Edgecombe avenue, the following
officers were elected for the ensuing
year: Mrs. Samuel ]. Kramer, regent !:
Mrs John Hudson Storer, first vice
regent; Mrs. George d. Bangs. second
Vice-regent: Mrs c. D. White, recording
secretary; Mrs. George Stoddard. CORE
spending seoetary; Miss Patterson.
treasurer: Mrs. Frances o. Abbott, his.
torian; Mrs. F. a. Fernald, registrar.
and the Rev, Milo H. Gates, chaplain.
Clio Club. Mrs. James D. Shipman
president had its last meeting OF the
season Monday at the Hotel Astor. Mrs.
z, Eugene Allendorf was chairman OF
the day. The subject was "Oh, Spring, "
Songs were rendered by Miss 0eneyieye
Davis and Miss Alice r. Ives recited "A
Morning Glory" "All In a I,ondon
Street" and IAN Old Fashioned Gar
den" her own compositions There wa.
interpretative dancing by little Miss Vir-
ginia Shipman. Charles Hanson Town
reclted several OF his own poems and
Lieut. Carl Blanchard explained Nxhy
everybody should buy Liberty bonds,
The Daughters OF Indiana In New
York, Miss Mary Garrett Hay president.
will have charge OF the tea and infor-
NAL reception for wounded soldiers this
evening at the residence of the Rev.
Henry Marsh Warren, IOS West Sew
enty-seventh street. The society has a
desk at the Hall of States. for soldiers,
In Twenty-fifth street Mrs. John Ander-
son Wood is chairman of the war work
committee. The other members who as
slst her this evening are Mines. Reuben
Jeffrey. Constantin Riegger, Foster
Moore Herbert Brown. Paul True. To-
seph Troggett, L. p. Hughes. w. H. ORA
pier. David Klein and the Misses Arda
Rorison and Ruby Rees.
Tho Eclectic Club. Mrs. Albert Can
field Bage president, will give an auc-
ton bridge for the philanthropic fund
Tuesday afternoon at the Waldorf Asto-
ria. Mrs. Edward w. Rockafellow Is
chairman and Mrs. James II. VAIN
wright Nce-chairman. The others on
the committee are Mines. William Dur
land. c. William Jones. Frederick Kra-
Mich. T. 8. B. Nielsen. Otto Maron and
John Thomson. The annual meeting OF
the club will be held Wednesday.
In aid of their work in Europe and
thiS country q musicale vas given I'm
The sun., 1919-05-11

Curls and pompadours. large braids and
loops have no place lin the modern
scheme Of things.
Of making ourselves more gay and
conspicuous for the evening, because
1t seems certain that this ornate head
dressing will be one Of the fashions of
the hour, although our summer life
does not call for brilliant attire. as Il
does in Europe. However, all fashions
creep slowly into wide acceptance, and
It is probable that this idea of adorn-
ing the head may not have a strong
grip on the public until early autumn.
There is one thing-and II is :m-
portant-that the average woman
should guard against when she puts
things into her hair. It Is that they
do not clash against her gown. That
does not mean the color of the gown,
nor especially its material. but its type,
Its style. its period. For instance, one
should not wear Grecian bandeaux
with Babylonian frock. nor the shell
lacked Japanese couture with a
flounced black tulle and Jet frock, nor
a turban OF gold which has colored
feathers or an ornament Of Jewels
with a simple muslin evening frock.
1t takes study to match ones couture
to the period Of ones gown. It makes
for failure IL one neglects this subject
There are more headdresses in FASH
ion at the present moment than there
are frocks. II one glances over the
sketches that come from Paris and
the things that are seen in fashion,
able American society. so It should be
comparatively easy to avoid mixing
periods and races and countries IN
hopeless confusion.
Probably the bandeau, with its up
The sun., 1919-05-11

be Miss Olive r. windetts, and Cha rles
q. Farwell will serve as chairman The
forum had a members night Tuesday,
with DR.. Cumming as chairman. Miss
Laura Lorenson was the guest Of honor
and received much applause for her
readings, which included THE Slowleys
at the Theatre" Following the pro-
gramme there was a reception before
tho dancing The hostesses of the even
ing were Mrs. Charlotte Wharton Ayers.
Mrs J. Walter Robertson. Mrs. Leonard
NJ Davis, Mrs Charles r Sadler, Miss
Eleanor +. Phillips. Miss Laura Loren
son and Miss Iva Hants
The woman's Auxiliary OF the Swedish
Hospital have arranged to give a bridge
party in the East Room suite OF the
Waldorf Astoria on the afternoon of
May 22.
The spring dance OF tho Knicker-
booker Civic League. Mrs. Mary NJ
Lilly president, will be held Saturday
evening at the Hotel Majestic, A num-
Der OF surprises are promised for the
spring pageant at which the guests of
honor will be Mrs. Alfred f. Smith and
Miss Emily Smith. On the women's COM
mittee will be Mrs. Grace Strachan
Forsythe, Mrs T. Ward. Mrs. Charles
V. Donohue, Mrs John ]. Boylan. Mrs.
Nora d. Mccall. Mrs. J. I. Bacon. Miss
Susye Sullivan, Mrs. Francis Thayer and
Mrs. Jennie Cook. Cards OF invitation
may be obtained from Miss Edith Rob
inson. 104 West Eighty-fourth street.
and Miss Ella T. Sullivan, 1859 East
Eighthieth street. The league. which
haI it's headquarters at the Majestic is
proud OF the successful record OF its
president during her first term as AS
semblyman for the Seventh District
Edith J. Robinson and Isabel Vernon
Cock arc vice-presidents OF the league,
Ella r. Sullivan is the secretary and
Lillia w. Stevens treasurer. Among
those who are expected at Saturdays
entertainment are Herbert c. Pell. Will
lam Harmon Block. Peter McElligott.
Joseph Mckee. Charles D. Donohue.
James J. Sullivan and D. J. Theophii-
atus.
A dinner was given at the Hotel Mar
settles Thursday evening in honor OF Carl
Akeley. the African explorer and dis
coverer and head of the Roosevelt Me-
mortal Committee. The dinner was fol-
lowed by an informal reception in the
| rose room.
Spring flowers and dogwood decorated
the ballroom OF the waldorf-A Astoria
yesterday for the peace Jubilee break
fast" OF the Rubinstein Club Mrs. Will
| lam Rogers Chapman president It was
the annual WaltS bEsAktass e tAs club
The sun., 1919-05-11

ton. II. Pierce. George W. Beckel,
Charles w. Ostrom, J. Edward Mastin.
I. J. Gormley. Joseph Didier. James b.
Stephens, Alonzo p. Dayton and also
Miss Josephine Didier.
An afternoon of cards. including
bridge. whist, euchre and other games
was enjoyed Wednesday in the north
ballroom Of the Hotel Aston by members
Of the Quarter Collection. The proceeds
VIII be used for the benefit OF poor and
destitute families in the city. Attrac-
tive souvenirs were provided for the
winners and tea was served after the
card games. Mrs. Rudolf Cronau Is
president of the Quarter Collection Mrs.
Paul Wenzel. secretary, and Mrs. Wolf
ram G. Dreyfus, treasurer. During the
war the organization did splendid work
assisting many needy families OF soldiers
and sailors.
The Daughters OF Ohio in New York,
Mrs. William ]. Cauthers, president,
have received n painting by ]. c. AFTER,
which will be sold for the benefit of the
organizations war relief work. 1t is
valued at $3.50 and was donated by Mr..
AFTER. This Is the second canvas pre-
scented by him to the society. the first
having been purchased by Mrs, Ray
mond C. Penneld OF ss6 Riverside Drive.
Tho annual meeting of the Daughters
of Michigan IN New York. Mrs Thomas
Gladstone Massey. president, was held
Tuesday at the home of Mrs Frank A.
Peteler, In the Hendrix Hudson, 10th
street and the Drive. Tho executive
board met at 80 o'clock after which
the annual report OF the officers and
chairman was made. This was followed
by an election OF officers for the ensuing
year. They will be as follows:
First vice-president. Mrs. Edgar Park;
second vioe-presldent. Mrs. VIM. Selden
third vice-president. Mira John B. Shep-
pard; fourth vice-president. Mrs. George
Stickney; nth vice-president, Mrs. r. s.
Copeland: recording secretary. Mrs. A.
J. Brosseau; corresponding secretary,
Mrs. III. d. Holloway: treasurer, Mrs.
NJ. L. Rimes; auditor. Mrs. Frank A.
Peteler; and historian. Miss Alice Ives.
The members of the society for the
past month have been making garments
and knitted articles for the Belgians
and have also been active In their can
teen work at the Michigan headquarters
The canteen Is crowded to Its capacity
every day at tea hour with boys who
have Just returned from overseas and
those who are able TO leave the hos
pitfalls.