davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

width across the shoulders, the lower
edge of the blouse with its elastic will
not come comfortably to the waistline
in front and the skirt must be worn so
high, to cover the edge of the blouse,
that the figure Is made to look more
bulky than should be the case.
Tucks Make Linen Waists Graceful
The favorite trimming for linen
blouses seems to be tucks. a multi
tude of tiny tucks and these inflnltes-
sinai tucks are put in by hand on the
linen blouses of high distinction. A
dainty model illustrated has six groups
of tiny tucks across tho front, the
center groups running clear to the belt
line and between these two groups is
a row of fiat pearl buttons. At the
back there are four groups of tucks
and the blouse fastens down the CEN
ter back with fiat buttons like those
on the front. The neckline Is trimmed
with fiat medallions of fllet lace set
into the linen and there are two rows
OF filet edging on the straight cuff
Simple as 1t is in design. this little
blouse has great distinction because
of the fine material used and the
amount Of hand tucklng.
Look For Individual Styles In Blouscs
You can pick up any number Of
Georgette waists on the blouse bargain
table but few of them have any special
style or distinction. They are just
blouses, that is all. and though they
will be neat and fresh with your tall
ored suit, they lack particular style.
For really individual blouses you must
search more carefully. Some of them
are displayed on wax figures or on
racks at the blouse counter but most
often they are to be glimpsed in the
shop windows. 1t is. of course. the
interesting blouse-the model of spe-
clal distinction and chic--that gets a
place in the window when the decora-
tor CLEANS in the blouse department
for something compelling TO set off his
display. OF course. these specially
beautiful blouses are expensive but,
though women did not use to think
so, 1t pays to put money in a really
distinguished blouse. For such a
blouse will be one Of the most valu-
able things in the winter wardrobe.
Often. too, you can pick up splendid
bargains in handsome blouses-if you
know exactly what you want and do
not let your fancy be led astray by
enticing models tossed on a bargain
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

wv OTHERl Gloves again with
MA evening gowns!" You hear it on
n every side. Women have become
E1 so accustomed to the delightful
freedom and unconventionality Of bare
hands that tho dlgnified restriction of
gloves seems a positive hardship.
Nevertheless gloves 1t is to be. Fash
ion says so. And no woman ever de-
parts from Fashions mandate unless
she has tremendous courage and feels
superior to conventions. She may de-
lay for while and follow her own
inclinations but sooner or later she
falls into line and wears what other
women door feels conspicuous and
uncomfortable in her independence.
so gloves it is to be. Gloves with
dance frock as well as afternoon frock
Gloves at the opera and at every af-
fair Of formality except the formal
dinner. Time was when women al
ways wore long buttoned gloves to
dinner parties and drew off the gloves
when seated at table. And you and
can ItlntllDtl lOW We hs'Nu W Au'h
the hands OF our gloves back in the
wrist portion when lunching or dining
at q restaurant. There have been
women SO lost to the ethics Of good
taste that they have slipped tea
through closely adjusted veils-rather
than remove the vel But no woman
will tackle bread and jam at afternoon
tea, or little sticky iced cakes, with
her fingers encased in kid gloves at
four dollars the pair.
Gloves will make an Ideal Christmas
remembrance this year. They are al
most as high priced as jewelry ana
the average woman cannot afford to
add more than half a dozen pairs to
her winter wardrobe-mayb she VIII
get along on less than that SO an eX-
fra pair or so as a Christmas gift VIII
be thoroughly appreciated. Several
things are responsible for the high
glove prices Of the moment and In
Ian probability these dreadful prices
will come down after awhile, as
conditions right themselves. But the
come down will not occur this year
or next year in all probability Fol-
one thing dressed skins for gloves are
extremely expensive and it Is hard tc
get good dyes Then too, so many OF
the French glove makers were killed
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16
FrIngcd sIlpons OF Silk Jersey
FLUFFY Wells AND JABoTs

~ HOUGH tailored suits and foot
A wear retain the serviceable plain
- ness of war days, a more feminine
semblance is given to woman's cos
tune by fluffy neckwear and veil; the
neckwear frilling over the coatfront In
dainty jabot, and the veil floating
gracefully in long ends, tied at one
side OF the neck. There are wells of
fine mesh with an allover pattern, or
with chenille dots, and all around is
deep hem Of chiffon set on with hem
stitching. The mesh part goes over
the face but at the back of the veil
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

days. Plain, mannish gloves are af-
fected by some women with sport
clothes or severely tailored street suits.
but 1t is the dainty dressy feminine
glove that has the day now.
Fresh from Paris are some gauntlet
gloves of tan suede with very fiarlng
wrists ornamented with flower gar
lands--the flowers and leaves of ap-
pliqued brown kid. Another French
gauntlet Is Of heavy cream colored
suede and the gauntlet wrists are 80
long that they wrinkle slightly in
mousquetaire style above the hand.
Each gauntlet is slashed from wrist
to upper edge and trimmed with cut
fringe made Of the suede. Very neat
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16


White Stitching, White Buttons And
White Embroidery.
gauntlet gloves for street wear are OF
white glace kid with navy blue stitch
ing and embroidery. Three bracelets
of blue kid stitched on with white
silk, trim the gauntlet tops.
SILK gloves for evening wear are
quite en- regle in Parls---and 1t is even
whispered that the Parislenne Is taxi
ing TO long silk mltts which display
rings to such advantage. A pair OF
long white silk evening gloves has lace
medallions In butterfly shape all tho
way up the arm portion. Around
black silk evening glove coils--or ap-
pears to coil "a realistic snake
wrought with green spangles. Other
silk gloves for evening wear are EN-
broidered with beads. Glace kid and
suede gloves are preferred by Ameri-
can women who never can seem to ac-
cept silk as a glove material for for
NAL occasions. Suede gloves in deep
cream are favored for afternoon wear
and many black glace kid gloves are
being sold-the best shops aver--to
well dressed women. for wear with
street costumes and especially with
fur coats. A pair of black glace kid
gloves, stitched and embroidered in
white and with narrow white piping
around the top. is pictured. These
gloves are extremely good style for
general wear with a fur coat or dark
tailored suit. Dress-up gloves for for
NAL afternoon occasions are shown in
two other pictures. The pearl gray
gloves with white and black embroid
cry and black plpings are especially
dainty. The white glace gloves show
that addition of black in wrist-trim-
ming which is hallmark Of smart
ness this season
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

the jabot is pleated to give It the
fluffy effect so much fancied. Some
times there is one ploated frill, some
times there are two or three, and very
smart jabots have the frills attached
to n tall stock which fastens at thb
back A close veil, tall stock and
fluffy jabot give any woman who
wears a simple tailored suit particu-
larly smart, well -groomed appearance.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

layettes are so fascinating that even
a grown up woman takes pleasure in
dressing and undressing the adorable,
dimpled doll baby.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

girdles which bring blouse and skirt
into continuity and harmony. Some
times the blouse comes with It's own
sash or girdle to match. A model
with a new suspender girdle is pic
tured. This girdle is part OF the
blouse and is attached to 1t, though it
and the buttoned cuffs may be re-
moved when the blouse is sent to
dry cleaners. Girdle and cuffs are Of
brown satin (in this case the tailored
suit is brown and the blouse Is of
apricot chiffon. The girdle and sus-
pender straps are piped with apricot
satin and the buttons are of apricot
satin, so the effect Of the glrdle over
the apricot blouse is soft rather than
severe. The sleeve with its 1870 cuff
and ruffle Is especially pretty. Some
women who do not care for the long
tunic blouses yet like the color and
style of some particular model of this
type--and the graceful sash that goes
with it---are adjusting these blouses
to particular needs. An elastic is run
in at the waistline so that the blouse
may be worn under the skirt and the
excess material at the lower edge Is
made into a camisole for wear under
the blouse-to give it richer color and
distinction. The sash Is tied around
the waistline. to lengthen the figure
line and add grace. A very charming
effect has been secured in this way
with a cerise chiffon tunic blouse
which a woman of ample figure lines
did not quite dare wear over tho skirt
in the ordinary tunic way
Fringcd Slipons OF Silk Jersey
The silk jersey slipons are decidedly
Partisan for French women are wear
ing this season so-called Jerseys with
short sleeves and made OF clinging
| stuff-in the effect of knitted slipon.
The long fringe falling over the skirt
is a typical feature Of such Sweater
blouses" as they are called in Paris.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

are long ends Of chiffon which are
brought around like a scarf, softly
swathng the neck; and q fluffy bow Is
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

N AGES and pages might be de-
kVoted to the new blouses. There
seems TO be no limit to kinds
OF blouses or TO the styles in each
Kind. one may wear a blouse now
with any costume but a full dress
evening costume; into this realm the
blouse has not been allowed to in
trude. But there are blouses for din
ner wear. for afternoon at-home wear.
for theatre and restaurant wear, as
blouses for the morning, for wear with
tailored suits and for sport wear.
Sheer Materials Largely Used
Most of the so-caled formal blouses
are Of chiffon or Georgette crepe
though q few such models come in
crepe de chine or soft satin. Tailored
blouses are often of chiffon or
Georgette but their lines and general
style differentiate them from the real
ly dressy models. A great many OF
the tailored blouses are of wash satin
and this year the fine linen blouse has
great favor. Such models are made
of soft, sheer handkerchief linen ex-
quisltely tucked by hand and trimmed
with fine edging Of real filet or Irish
crochet lace. Two such blouses are
pictured, one severely tailored sport
blouse OF very soft but not sheer
white linen, and the other a new but
ton-in-back model of flesh tinted
handkerchief linen. The sport blouse
is cut to At gracefully without tuck
ing or gathers on the shoulder and
has straight coat-sleeves. or rather,
shirt-sleeves finished with turned
back cuffs. These cuffs and deep
collar are edged with narrow pleating
of the material and the dainty pleat-
ing runs down either side OF the pleat
which holds the buttonholes. The
collar, you see, Is deep only in its
length; around the neck 1t fits closely
and is no wider than an ordinary coat
collar.
Tailored blouses of this sort are
usually made without gathers at the
walstine and extend some inches be-
low the belt. 1t is to be hoped that
all bouses will do this some day. The
chiffon and lace blouses, gathered on
elastic at the wastlne are more profit
able to the manufacturer because less
material is required to make them
but many of these dainty models are
impossible to the woman of full figure.
Even if a size AZ or A gives ample
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

backs make these gloves very smart.
Most women find the gauntlet glove
more comfortable for everyday wear
than the ordinary buttoned glove-for
the same reason that slipon blouse
is more satisfactory than one that has
to be fastened and unfastened.
Stitching is an important feature of
gloves this season. Rarely is a glove
stitched in a shade exactly matching
the fabric. This contrast of color in
the stitching, plus conspicuous en-
broidery on the backs and usually a
piping or other trimming in contrast
ing tone gives the modern glove a
dressy and elaborate questionable
gloves worn by femininity in Victorian
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1919-11-16

Graceful Tunic BlouSeS Turn
a Separate Skirt Into a
Whole Costume Panels
Over Contrasting Color
Are Fashionable A New
Suspender Girdle That In
COrpOrates Blouse With
Skirt SlipOvers.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
Wheat SHOWED
SPIRIT OF u. S,
Sacrifice to Ensure Allied Loaf
Greatest Single Food
Achievement.
SUFFICIENT SUPPLY NOW.
turn to Their Normal Sup
ply of White
Bread.

Overshadowing all other accomplish
ments of the American people under
the leadership of Food Administration
Is the history of wheat exports in the
past sixteen months. Our wheat ex-
port program proved conclusiveIy to
the world that America was in this
war from start to finish and willing to
make any sacrifice that will hasten
victory or maintain the health and
strength of people overseas, upon
whom rested the heaviest weight of
our war;
Now that pressure on ocean tonnage
is eased by the stopping of large move
ments of troops to Europe, we may re-
lax our efforts to save wheat The ac-
cumulated surplus in Australia Argen-
tine and other hitherto inaccessible
markets will become available, and
probably no more than our normal sur
plus will have to leave this country.
we in America and the nations which
have won the world for freedom will
be enabled TO eat their normal wheat
loaf at the common table of the peo-
pies of democracy.
We entered the past crop year with
a wheat supply which gave us only
2O,OOO,OO0 bushels available for ex-
port. When the crop year ended, we
had sent III, 100000 bushels of wheat
to Europe. The American people had
saved out of their normal consumption
121, 100000 bushels.
A survey of export figures shows
that the conservation of flour brought
about by the wheatless meals. wheat
less days, substitution in our kitchens
and bakeries, enabled US to send to
our armies and the allies $4,000. 900
barrels of white four-wheat figured
as flour. Had we exported only our
visible surplus, we would have been
able, TO ship less than $500, 600 barrels.
Before the 1st of December our sur
plus had gone overseas, and an addi-
tional 100000 bushels had been tax
en- from the stock reserved for home
consumption and added to the surplus
already shipped to the allies It SEEM
ed hardly possible that we could bring
our total exports above 100000
bushels by July 1. But in January the
late Lord RhOndda, then British Food
Controller, cabled that unless we
could send an additional 100000
bushels he could not take RESPONSE
bility for assuring his people that they
would be fed. The American people
responded by sending 100000 bush
els of wheat, saved from their home
consumption, between the first of the
year and the advent Of the new crop.
By October 10, 1918, we had already
shipped 65,96O,3O5 bushels since July
1. Absolutely the only limitation upon
our wheat exports since the latest har-
vest has been the scarcity of ocean
tonnage. If exports continue at the
present rate, by July 1 of next year
we will have sent more than 237. $780,
600 bushels to Europe.
Thus are we making good Americas
pledge that the bread rations of Allied
Europe shall be maintained.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
UNITED WAR VETERANS.
a National Organization Composed of
All Soldiers OF All Wars.

The United War Veterans, National
Organization has been formed to in
clude in its active membership all vete-
rams of the Civil War and Spanish
War and all soldiers, sailors and ma
rines Of the United States in the
World War.
The objects are: To unite in frater-
nal througout national, state, local and
foreign organizations, all soldiers and
sailors of the United States: to per-
petuate Memorial Day, as established
by the Grand Army of the Republic,
and to preserve from neglect the graves
es Our Nations dead; to secure en-
ployment for and to assist our com
rades, their widows, orphans and de-
pendant relatives; to promote loyalty,
mutual aid and cooperation among them
in all lines Of endeavor; to secure from
Congress and other legislative bodies
the enactment of the laws beneficial to
the welfare of our comrades, and to
secure employment fer those who have
returned to civil pursuits in consonance
charged soldiers and sailors for govern
meRt service; to provide and establish
homes for orphans and establish homes
for orphans and dependant children of
our comrades; and to inculcate the
principles of universal liberty and JUS
tice to all mankind, of loyalty to our
country, reverence for its institutions,
obedience to its laws and to discoun-
tenance whatever tends to weaken
these sentiments.
This organization consists of active
members called Comrades), and in ad-
dition thereto an honorary member
ship consisting of persons who per
formed distinguished or faithful ser
vice or engaged in efforts for the relief
of disabled and suffering soldiers and
sailors, or who to a conspicuous extent
became interested in the moral welfare
and pny zeal comfort of troops in camp
or in field, or who are hanorably dis
charged soldiers or sailors of any of
the Allies of the United States in the
World War.
Il Is not expected that members of the
G. A. R., U. S. w. v, or any other
patriotic organization will discontinue
their memberships, but will join the
United War Veterans in addition, in
order to have one large organization OF
all soldiers of all wars
The National Headquarters are al
at Kalispell, Montana, and they recon-
mend that the Civil War Veterans be
preferred for officers, both National
and local, as far as possible. The Com
mander-in-Chief is Commandant of the
Montana State Soldiers Home.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
nBonnie DOOM
Very sincerely,
Chas. C. Hatfield

Concerning the writing of Bonnie
Doom" there is an interesting story.
The heroine of this song was q Miss
Kennedy of Dolgarrock, who had been
Tilted by McDougaI of Logan. The
young woman is said to have taken
the affair so much to heart that she
found relief in the quiet waters that
flow through the north country. The
Don is a river of Scotland in Ayr
shire which, after a course of 80 miles,
falls into the Firth of Clyde. It was
on the banks of this stream, near
''Alloway's aud haunted kirk" that
the poet was born, and naturally he
has made it the scene of many of his
poems.
The tune to which Burns wrote the
words of Bonnie Doom" was an old
Scottish air called 1.-THE Caledonian
Hearts Delight and an effort has
been made to trace it to a still older
Irish air.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
Methodist Church Note.

New Year Greetings to all our
friends. The great war has closed,
but the Church goes on forever.
80 God, we thank thee, that thy
church unsleeping
Through all the World her watch is
keeping,
And rests not now by day or night. -
Her task is not done, her goal not
reached. There is no discharge in
this war
With the new year begins a new
quarter in the Sunday school. Better
make q New Years resolution and
start in with the first Sunday of the
new year. Glasses for all ages. Two
classes for Normal Students.~Mr. AL
bertson's class of young men will or
ganize next Sunday.
The Pastors sermon Sunday morn
ing will be a Key Note Message for
the new year. All members be present
Friends welcome. Normal Student in
vited to make this their church home
Special music next Sunday.
EpWorCh League meets at b 81
At 7:30 we join in the union ser
vice at the Lutheran church. This
viii be the first service in the week Of
prayer which is to be observed by all
the churches joining together. The
services will be held in all the
churches during the week.
The Union Mems Brotherhood of
Hays will hold its next meeting in
the Lutheran church next Sunday at
p. m. All men and boys are invited
Next Sunday is missionary day in
the Sunday school.
The Woman's Foreign Missionary
Society of the Methodist church viii
meet with Mrs. Harvey Fel1ers next
Wednesday at 2 p. m.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
TRACED "FLUSHER" TO LAIR
Western Man Found One in New York
That viii Give Any of Them
a Hard Run.

The newest ''f1usher" is the fellow
who gives you the silver voice over the
phone. He is related to the common
or garden variety of fourfushers. It
is over the phone that he makes him
self conspicuous, and those who are
not hep imagine he is the guy who
knows it all. A man from the West, a
wealthy miner from Butte, Mont, dis
covered the phone fusher and he has
announced that it is his intention to
start society to eliminate this par
ticular breed. ST got into town the
other day." said the miner, "and the
first thing I ran against was a phone
iusher, who had me hypnotized until
I met him. He called me on the phone
about q business deal he knew 1 was
interested in. 1 decided to visit him
at his office after he had convinced me
that it was worth while. Especially
was affected by the remarks he made
to people in his Office while we were
talking. First he interrupted me by
turning to some one and saying, Don't
forget those two lowers for Washing
ton. I've got to be in Washington and
meet the president at the White
House at TO- a few minutes later.
he told some one else to wait a min
ute and he'd sign those checks. We
talked some more and were halted
when he turned away a third time and
said, ooh, that's all right. Tell him
to draw on our Chicago Office for S50,-
GEO. This afternoon I went to his Of
flee. It's d little hole in the wall, and
when I went in darned if he wasn't
cutting his own hair."-New York
Sun
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1919-01-02
To the Boys of Section A

In view of the fact that I cannot
talk to each one of you individually,
I take this means of expressing my
deep appreciation of the bathrobe
and cigars which you presented. I
assure each and every one of you
that the memory of our association
during the last three months will not
soon be erased. We are all sorry that
we did not get across for our own
little dig at the Hun, but we can rest
assured that we each did our part as
set forth by those who dictated our
military policy. We wear no medals
nor do we bear any scars, but we
have done what we were told, and,
afteral1 ''They Serve Who Only Stand
and Wait
I am sorry to think that our asso-
citation will be so soon ended, but
know you boys are anxious to get
home, as we all are. I expect to
leave soon for my home at Kingston,
Ohio, and if, by any chance, one of
you has occasion to visit there l as
sure you that you will have hearty
welcome at my home. hope that the
same good feeling that has character
lied our relationship in the past will
be ever present, though we are miles
apart, Permit me to thank you from
the depth of my heart for the gifts
You could not have selected anything
that would appreciate more. Good
bye, boys, and luck to you ALL
Charles c. Hatfield