The Pensacola journal., 1919-10-26
MONTHLY FASHION LETTER
(sY MARGARET WALTER,

London, Oct. 25.-while London is
suffering for egg beaters and coffee
pots and few other little commodi-
ties that come from America, she
seems to have no trouble in getting
over American styles and ;. it is even
more apparent now than it was in
the spring that dress experts have
their eyes turned toward America
rather than to Paris.
OF course Paris is the inspiration
she will always be that-but the in
depreciation is getting more and. more
of an American flavor and it's no
exagseration to say that you could
pick up a well dressed American girl
every woman who passed her would
say to herself, There's the latest from
Paris, / suppose"
The tendency is toward plumpness
in the fashions and that must be out
of Difference to America for there
aren't any plump people over here
to speak of. Some of the smartest
shops are showing frocks with padded
hips and punched draperies below the
waist; and the latest models from
Paris are cut in way which accen-
tuates the slim austere line of IIoul-
der and back which has been the
characteristic of American women
most admired in Europe.
The frocks which are most admired
are draped rather than cut this fall
| and it looks as If that was the way
the big designers like Doucet and
Lanvin were solving their labor situa-
ton. The master designer simply
| chooses a beautiful bit of stuff and
folds 1t round the figure of his favo-
rite mannequin. Then all that has to
be done is to pin it in place. finish
the neck and the hem with, thread
Of shining metal and gorgeous string
of colored silk or wool and-voila-the
creation is complete.
Necks are almost all high in front,
way up to your collar-bone and, unless
you are afraid to. you have the back
| cut out as low as you like for street
wear For house frocks you almost
have to have an open back and eve
ming dresses remain guiltless of any
thing but a string of pearls or gleam-
ing sequins mounted upon an invis-
ible flesh colored suspender of tulle
or net. In the street the new fur col
lars and shaped shoulder pieces take
/ the place of the draped wraps which
are being shown for late fall wear.
| The animal neck piece is no longer
worn by the ultra smart woman and
some of the fur creations are as quaint
las anything. Perhaps the most girl
fish design is sort of glorified fichu
/ made of one of the very soft furs 1or
! Foundation and trimmed with two
three of even four other kinds OF FUR
i collar of ermine, tails of silver fox
q band of sable round the shoulders
land reverse OF baby Persian lamb are
mot at all unusual
And still the Partisan woman spe-
iciaIizes in little things Her belt. whicf
lshe now wears right around her wais'
in the place Nature intended, is OF the
finest needlework or metal; her stock
ings are hand embroidered TO mater
and cost a fabulous amount and hel
bag and handkerchief and collar are
in keeping or worn to create a start
ling contrast.
II one OF the fashions which has fount
the most followers in Paris is tina
of wearing some sort of headgear II
the evening. 1t probably began wher
it was the only solution of the prob
Hem created by the absence of the
highly skilled hairdresser who wa:
busy with the war and now womer
persist in it because it is almost uni
versaIly becoming and it makes mos
women look a great deal younger thar
they are.
This evening hcaodress means os-
preys and jewels and some OF the
close fitting turbans. which have ere
lated the most impression in the sa-
lions of the great houses. are, simply
; caps of exquisite drawn metal-worf
fthickly studded with real stones.
The elbow sleeves which everybody
wore six weeks ago have vanished
and in their place is the long close
fitting mousquetaire which is far toe
becoming to entirely disappear. Also
most European women insist upor
wear ring gloves and when it is i'm
possible to obtain long gloves they in
| sist upon sleeves which make shor'
one possible.
The close-fitting velvet or velour
tooue is still the favorite Of the boule-
ward and In Park Lane but the early
autumn concerts and receptions have