davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Republican farmer., 1919-10-17
MEN GOING
 BACK TO WORK
 LN PITTSBURGH

Pittsburgh, Oct. Pittsburgh dis trict steel mills are operating more fully today than at any time since the nationwide strike of steel workers began three weeks ago, according to reports from representatives of the employers. The latest statements from the various companies indicated that hundreds of men are returning to work daily.
 Wrap white dresses in dark blue cambric when putting them away and they will not turn yellow. If you prefer to use white cloth dip it first in a strong bluing water and the same result will be obtained.
 The precipitous mountain streams that feed the underground rivers are capable of being harnessed and de- veloping hydro-electric power to an unbelievable extent. With the sub terrapean rivers capable of making the crstwhile desert blossom as the rose, the mountain streams could fur nish electric power for communities through local central stations and electricity could pump from the sub surface courses all the water needed for irrigation in that particular To- caIity. It has been demonstrated that with gasoline at 20 cents a gallon, and where the lift is not more than 20 feet, it is possible to irrigate at cost Of $5 an acre. Mentally com pare then the possibilities of electric power.
 The passage of the Pittrnan-Evans act already has stimulated the form ing. of cooperative and other con | cerns for the exploitation of Nevada $ subterranean rivers. The. next few years will tell the tale, and if Senator Pittman's predictions come true il will be a won1rous one.
Republican farmer., 1919-10-17

Adoption of the Hull resolution either with or without Republican "kidnapping," may bring something to the soldiers in spite of Republican negUKence.
Republican farmer., 1919-10-17
ADMIRAL CLOVER DEAD.

Cheyenne, Wyo., Oct. IS Rear Admiral Richardson Clover, US N, retired, died on train west of Chey- enne early today. He was on his way to his home in Washington, D. C., from California. He was 73 years old.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

France. 1t was recently imported, and
departed from all former models by
buttoning from the shoulder to the tip
of the sleeve. A dark blue MORE rib
bon runs in and out through the but
tonholed slides and then passes
through yellowish green jade buckle
at the front.
In the advance guard of summer
clothes are distinctive gowns of black
satin with a cape to match. Very
often satin of another color is COM
bined with black to make the frock.
One of our American designers has
thought of putting richly embroid
cred tunic of Chinese blue on a black
satin dress and lining the cape with
Chinese blue chiffon. Further evidence
of the Oriental inspiration of this CO.'S
tune is seen in the cape collar, ending
in a scarf, which may be wound around
the chin.
suzanne Talbot makes small hat Of
DUH blue silk embroidered in fine
threads of glazed black straw. The
contrast between the dull and shiny
material is decided. 1t is equally
charming. This hat is pictured at the
right of the group of four. Strands of
straw fine as silken threads are used
for the embroidery. While such a ha.
appears very simple, it is of costly
simplicity because of the difficulty in
making 1T. The work of weaving the
aesign cannot be done by milliner,
put must be given over to expert en-
Droiderers. And even they find that
threads of straw are much more diffi-
cult than those of silk to employ in
needlework. No trimming other than
the embroidery is used on these hats.
Since the embroidery is both beautiful
and elaborate, nothing else is needed.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

Invariably feature the short sleeve,
usually cut on kimono lines or set into
a very loose armhole.
The fastening of the blouse appears
to be movable thing. 1t may close on
one shoulder or on both, in the back.
in the front, or it may not fasten at
all, merely slipped on over the head.
The frivolous one of white organdie in
the sketch makes no pretence of fast
enng OF any sort, although it closes in
the back. Either side of this closing
is turned over like little cuff, which
is lace-edged The saucy little sash
wraps around the body, so as to control
a closing of the blouse, and after per-
forming this essential feat, to be en-
tlrely feminine, it ties itself coquet-
tishly in the back.
Women do not need to lay aside their
knitting with the end of the war. In
stead of helmets and socks they may
knit strips of mercerized cotton.
These strips are joined together with
fagoting anG set in the front Of their
blouses. The knitting for the blouse
sketched on this page was done in
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

from the metal cloth of other seasons,
and combines. more plcasingly with
plain materials than did it's predeces-
sor. A lavender and silver ribbon of
the same curious and artistic weave
threads its way through coarse silk
threads, forming a narrow belt tying
at either side. This gown has not
even suggestion of a sleeve of any
sort. The shoulder seam has been per-
mitted to lengthen itself just a very
little, possibly perhaps as a bit of apol-
ogy.
No French woman hesitates to top
her sleeveless and gloveless costume
by hat. The one worn with the frock
described above has just been sent to us
from LegrouX S9urs, of Paris. Black
net is it's foundation, with narrow
bands of tuscan straw sewn around
both crown and brim. A. wreath of
laurel leaves is it's trimming. Laurel
is used to trim many of the new Paris
hats, perhaps as a symbol of victory.
A frock that has gathered into itself
about all the modish features possible
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
The Short Skirt Advances
Stealthily Upon Us

AT THIS moment there is with us a
great uncertainty about the length
OF skirts. The dictum of Paris is for
short ones; very short ones. All the
French houses stand sponsor to them
and we in America believe that the
snort skirt is advancing upon us again
stealthily, step by although its
nitimate fate here still hesitantly
hangs in the balance. One of the
most difficult clothes questions we have
to settle IS what compromise shall we
make between the skirt measuring
from twelve to sixteen inches from
tns floor, which the Parisienne is
wearing, and the long skirt Of purely
American origin. There is no doubt
about it, French models cannot be
altered TO meet the demand for skirt
10 much longer without material
change Of the original lines and much
Of the style being completely lost
by this change.
Soma Of tho evening gowns az the
recent openings had the skirts draped
70 a. to show the leg almost to the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
s.sA.,
Can America Create
Her Own Fashionsl

THE question has agltated both New
Il York and Paris for some time.
Even before the war the matter had
aroused spirited controversy Then
the war, and it was no longer a ques-
ton whether America could design.
She must design, and so her designers
who had never tried their wings before
altogether Independent of Paris bent
to with that determination that is born
Of necessity and answered the ques-
ton. America could design.
And foremost among those who were
responsible for the success Of these
efforts was a young girl who had
neither training nor experience in cos
tune designing nor any intention Of
capitalizing a certain cleverness and IN
terest in originating frocks with beau
tiful long, clinging lines and making
them with a very obvious distinction.
This young girl is Miss Ethel Frank
au, and Mr.. Goodman, of Bergdorf 9
Goodman, seeing her work quite by
chance, was SO impressed with it thai
he invited her to design for his clients
And so it is that one of the names
that you see most persistently in con.
nection with beautiful gowns is that
of Miss Frankau, and her latest accon}
plishment is the creation of those ext
ceedingly clever costumes that Mmei
Yvette Guilbert wears in "Guibour."
1t is not Miss Frankau's creed thar
America should design apart from
Paris. eve still need and we shay
always need. Paris for inspiration'y
she declares, but, however that may
be, it seems to be conclusive that
Miss Frankau we have an apt exampf
of the creative genius of young Amer
lea and that her work is dlstinf'
contribution to the cause of art
dress. c. NJ.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
Shops and Things

Eve'yachere IN the shops arc thu
u'anaistakable signs of joyous
spring, Evidence conclusive that tho
transition from grace to gag, in
ougurated by certain wild clanoor
of bells back in Novcmber, is com.
plete.
or course the outdoors is calling
~ louder and more insistently than
ever, and with a new lure, after the
strenuousness of war and war times
So everything appertaining to sports
and sports clothes promises an unusu-
ally vigorous vogue.
One of the way downtown shops
Ph. Weinberg & Sons, to be exact. is
making a special appeal to this state
of things through some golf suits with
a new feature, pivot" sleeve. They
were tried out in the South, these
suits, and thoroughly proved, so un-
doubtedly golf deyotees among the
men up here will be interested in
them. They come in tweed, homespun,
pongee and in variety of other fab.
RIGS, and aside from this peculiarly
of sleeve, have divers other character
istic finishing touches and are exceed
ingly we'll tailored.
Then any self-respecting outdoor
outfit these days just naturally in
cludes leather coat, which not only
is vastly practical as a guaranteed
protection against the worst the ele.
ments can do, but also eminently good
looking. Moreover, they are distinc-
tive; that is, if they are of genuine
leather, and Franklin Simon's Storm
oleather" coats are absolutely that
genuine leather, and, as if that were
not enough. they are lined with a
soft suede.
The fascination of things Oriental
has lost nothing for US, it seems,
by having been brought to closer no.
tice. Vantine's, which long has epito-
mized to us the subtle beauty and al
lurement of the East, is showing now
some Chinese costumes that are won
drously lovely and, what is moro to the
point, not out of reach of all but the
disciples of Cresus. They arc fash
Toned of brocadod silk in soft or brill
liant colors, blended with all the ef-
fectiveness to be expected, and out
lined with darker banding that is the
one thing needed to emphasize their
beauty of line as we'll as design. Skirts
and coats come separately, too, and
worn with plain over-blouses matching
one of the colors afford another inter-
esting departure in gowning.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
Adventures in Clothes

HXAGGERATION always has been
r. the very essence of fashion.
Women will adventure in clothes.
This exaggeration usually is obtained
by accentuating some portion of the
human body, just as hoopskirts &C
centuated the slim slenderness of the
waist. In the days of our now far-off
Civil War Mrs. Lincoln and the wife of
General Grant walked abroad with
wide, swaying skirts. So full were they
that the waist took on wasplike ~
rearance. Then there came time
when breadth was given to the shout
ders by an absurdly large sleeve that
pulled stiffly out at the top. Du Maui
rier ever depicted his lovely ladies
walking in Hyde Park with huge puffs
atop of their shapely arms. Now 1T
seems the aim of Parisienne designers
is to create back to-nature campaign.
With French women wearing skirts that
end halfway between the knee and
ankle, evening gowns cut practically to
the waist line in the back and after
noon frocks with the short sleeves OF
the 1880 period-and many Of them alb
sclutely sleeveless--the question IS not
altogether how we are going to dress,
hut are we about to undress!
We here in this country are in the
very thick of the semi-annual discus
sion of the silhouette-the length OF
skirts, the depth and outline OF the
decolletege and how we shall trim or
nntrim our hats. Paris has had her
openings, and our American buyers have
returned, bringing to us the best
nodels from the varied collections
shown by the great French houses.
These dazzle with their splendor. OF
metal tissue and spangles, they sparkle
and scintiilate, apparently vylng with
one another to Offset the sombre garo
of war time.
With the wars ending France evil
IDENTIFY expected American women to
burst into wild extravaganza. 1t Is
doubtful, however, if the snowy,
.nanpled and embroidered dresses dis
played by the Paris designers Will be
adonted by our American women for
this summers wear. We IN this coun-
try like simple models. Then too,
the exorbitant prices charged by the
French dressmakers made the pur-
chasing of models almost prohibltlve.
Consequently we may not expect any
price reductions in clothes for some
time to come. But it will not be for
Iona, for the poilus Of France are
returning to work. The looms at
Lyons and st. Etienne are again bus
lily whirring and new weaves of silks
and other fabrics are being made for
the wide, feminine world.
Many of these startling models owe
their existence to new couturiere who
has come into prominence in Paris
She is Madame Renee, formerly the
premiere at the house of Premet. Buy
era who reviewed the collection al
the February openings were amazet
at the clothes exhibited by this clev
er creator. Her costumes showed ,
distinctive freshness and touch tina
was different and new.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
By Sara Marshall Cook

in one model is created by Doeullet
Old-fashioned homespun, corbeau blue
in color, is the material of which it
of silhouette and narrow OF skirt
Much is made of the fiat betting braid
trimming which is laced through drawn
threads Of the homespun. Two widths
of the boiling are used. White cotton
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

fringe, quite heavy and of inch width
in fact, just like the fringe that bed
spreads were bordcred with In Colonial
days-is used as a trimming on the
underslccves and little square chcmi-
settle of white null This use of
white cotton fringe is new note and
different. 1t offers many suggestions
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

guerreotype and oil portrait of that
day. What is lovelier for sheer fabrics
than these abbreviated sleeves that be-
long TO period when women dressed
more picturesquely than they do now 2
There is little doubt that the short
sleeve has come TO stay. 1t will
remain for the summer. at least.
There arc few gowns or bouses shown
at the openings that do not have short
sleeves, and some Of them none. Even
suits have three quarter length sleeves,
permitting the hands to be carefully
gloved. Martial ct Armand send us
an afternoon gown Of beige colored
crepe de chine literally covered with
silken embroidery in the same tone.
Very short is the crepe de- chine skirt,
but beneath the hem is set a band of
lavender and silver tissue, to fall sew
eral inches below the skirt This it's
sue is very loosely woven and quite
rough IN texture. 1t is very different
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

D0euillef, Of Paris, uses Corbeau blae
Aomespnn to make this frock, and
laees fiat silk braid through drasrn
threads of the cloth. Old fashioned
cotton fringe trims the qphite null IN
dersleeves and Vest. Imported by
Kurzman.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

Another froek sho7ving Chinese inau-
ence is Of Macy blue serge banded qvith
black satin. The vcst is black satin
and the girdle braided black silk
cord. Model from Joseph.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

for adOrnlnH summer frockS, D0ih OF
linen and cotton materials.
The Overblouse tlas
Many Versions
II RENCH women are wearing the
Il ovcrblouse in each of its many
versions. There are some that end at
the waist line in the back and are
finished to go over the skirt with an
inch wide ribbon of unusual weave and
usually in contrasting color. After
finishing the back Of the blouse these
colorful ribbons slip through loops
made by buttoaaole stitching to tie
over the apron front. The fronts of
many of these short-back blouses take
their inspiration from the wastcoat of
the past winter.
Organdie overblous are very smart
They have apron fronts and coquettish
little sashes Of the material edged with
real lace These new organdie blouses
could be combined with separate skirts
of organdic to make an attractive sum-
mer frock.
The late imports Of blouses almost
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23
The Abbreviated Sleeve
An Echo of 1880

MO wonder the makers of clothes
4 have at last turned their atten-
ton to sleeves! No part of the dress
allows freer play to ones creative
fancy In 1880 dressmakers went quite
mad over sleeves and cut up all sorts Of
insane antics with them. And, since this
is the period from which the new short
sleeve takes its inspiration and marks
the difference between this years frock
and last, We may expect present day
modistes to do things equally as anus
ing. That there was method in the
madness OF these oldtime drcssmakcrs
IS attestcd by the beautiful effects alb
tanned. We see this in every old da-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

knee, and the shortness at the front
and side accentuated by train. One
clever designer has done some very in
teresting things with her skirts. She
has given an appearance Of length by
putting transparent laces and embroid-
cries at the bottom of the skirt. She
then makes the underskirt several
inches shorter than the outside.
thereby silhouetting the legs. After
accomplishing this on lot of her
evening gowns prepared for the post
Lenten season, she is using the same
treatment on lingerie frocks. For tho
trousseau OF an Easter bride she has
made sheer lingerie frock of old lace
and rare embroidery, ivory in tore.
The petticoat is Of pale pink satin with
a knee-deep fiounce of navy blue chif-
fon. This gives the desired background
at which the designer is aiming. The
effect is as fascinating as it is original.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

(BeloD, reading lett to ,1oht)
Beaded bag Of the nr7v
Crnr dc France red. Hat
made Of old fashioned
chailis. 4 sports hat Of
gray angora euith dyim
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-03-23

facing Of French blue
sfrnsv. Angora scarf TO
MATCH qvifh gay colorcd
Spool motifs at the end.
Bag and sborn hat from
CM4imq.
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Christian Church.

The mo,her's dav program at
the Christian church last Sun
day morning. was well attended
The music and recitations were
very appropriate for the occas-
ion, well rendered and much APP
preciated by the audience. We
were glad TO note the large
number of yonrp people in the
evening audience aud we es-
pecially appreciate the singing
by the young peoples choir.
We are very grateful to Mr..
Lunsford for his work in tram
ing these youag people TO sing
and Arranging such splendid
music for the services.
The men and Toys of the
church and. su,..iny ssiriinul are
going to serve dinn5'r TO ttie
women and girls ~ the Sunday
ociiool and church next Sunday
noon in the grove Immediately
,fier church service. This is to
he a rcpulht mans dinner.
Come and see. There will he
10 preaching at the church in
the evening on account Of the
lsaccalaurcate service mt the
high school. Is. ii Dawson.
Pastor.
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Ball Game.

The Holyoke ball team play.
ed the Julesburg team at that
place last Sunday with score
of 10 to . in favor of Julesburg.
The Holyoke team has only re-
Gently been organized and have
had but very little practice. a
defeat in the first game with
team that has had plenty of
practice is no grounds for any
encouragement hut will on the
contrary act as q st mulus
tor better organization and
more strenuous practice. Hol
yoke has plenty OF material for
a first-class ball team aud the
result of this game will secure
the careful and enthusiastic
practice that will give us win
ming team before the season is
oyer,
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Decoration Day Program.

Holyoke Post No. 81, GAR.
The exercises Of the day will
commence with our annual
missi, to the Holyoke GENE.
terv to decorate the graves of
our comrades who have gone
over" at 10: 80 a m. The SOL
diers and sailors of the late war
as well as all the citizens to
meet with us and join in offer
ing a floral tribute to the mem
ory of our deceased comrades.
Special services will be held
at the cemetery at IL o'clock a.
m. and a short address will be
made.
At 1880 p. m. the exercises
will be commenced with an in.
vocation followed with music,
aad reading of Lincoln's ad-
dress at Gettysburg.
Addresses will be made by
several prominent gentlemen
which will include not only the
past hut the present as well,
this is a year of rejoicing let us
express the joy in our hearts a,
the successful termination OF
|~kvs+.Ae.srRle <sri tbrs risl.ss
/ OF mankind.
The addresses will be made
by Revs. Mackny. Dickey. Dhw.
son and Gardner.
Other exc cises will be ipclud
ed in the program. music and
recitations.
All are cordially invited Ia
join with ms fathers aud moth
ers. boys and girls. our own vet
Grams, every man who was mus
tered into the military service
Of the United Sta,es, either
from Phillips county or else
where who is in our borders.
BY order Of the Post.
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Empseymeat Wanted.

Many men are reported out
out of work in New York. Why
this should be the case In these
times of high prices 10 very diff
6cult Of explanation on any 9th
er basis than that the nanufac-
turers of the east are fearful Of
our country being flooded with
cheap foreign made goods with
which il will be difficult to sue
cessfully compete under pres.
ent prices. II this fear proves
to have been we'll founded. there
will be an army Of democratic
business men calling for Q pro-
rffi6 Nesofe t1Gd yUdsi
pass by.
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Fable Holds Good.

One Of Aesor's fables relates
that two frogs livec in q pool
that dried up. whereupon they
sought another place in which
to live. Coming 10 deep we'll
one suggested that they jump
in. Hold" exclaimed the otl,
err, If this should prove unsat'
isiactory, how would We ever
get out" Aesop's moral was
Look before you leap." The
peaceful pool Of nntionalisnI
dried up in 1914. and now there
are some who would have us
jump into the we'll OF nm iatei
nationaiistic league of nations.
Look before you lenp."
The state herald., 1919-05-23
COUNTY SCHOOL NOTES.

Miss Anna Spence Of the Hol
yoke schools was the winner nt
the recent county spelling con-
test. Wilmer Treeo of the
Beachville school was n close
contestant for the honor.
Haxtun grade schools closed
last Friday. On Thursday eve.
ming graduating exercises were
held for those passing the Stb
grade aud to whom diplomas
were issued.
The pleasant view school clos
ed last Friday. Miss Bessie
Blunt was the teacher in charge
Miss Myrtle Rndcliff closed u
ninc months term of school IN
district 81 last Friday.
Miss Ruth Cole who was the
principal of the Amherst school
hns secured n position in the
schools Of Toponas. Colo.
Miss Mary Moore closed n
term of school in district II last
Wednesday.
Plans are being made for
county commencement Tor the
eighth grade on June q. Mt the
county high school in llolyoke.
These exercises will be open to
all those groduting from the y,
grade In the entire county.
The roll Of graduates will reach
ncnrly the hundred mark
All persons elected TO school
district Offices must qualify ON
or before May "a or the Office
will be declared vacant and mp.
pointmcpts nndc by this Office.
County Supt. Of Schools.
The state herald., 1919-05-23
Piano at a Bargain.

We hav, in Holyuke n piano
of excellent musical quality. the
product of n famous factory. In
order to avoid the expense of
storage. boxing. carriage and
freight to Denver, we are offer.
ing this splendid instrument mt
u genuine bargain. Here is
your opportunity to fill your
home with music at n modern
price and on terms that will
make ownership pleasure. II
you are interested in knowing
more about tlis piano, please
write at once. Bargains like
this are eagerly snapped up.
Address,
Knight Campbell Music Co.
Largest in the WesO
Denver. Colorado.