davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

Invariably feature the short sleeve,
usually cut on kimono lines or set into
a very loose armhole.
The fastening of the blouse appears
to be movable thing. 1t may close on
one shoulder or on both, in the back.
in the front, or it may not fasten at
all, merely slipped on over the head.
The frivolous one of white organdie in
the sketch makes no pretence of fast
enng OF any sort, although it closes in
the back. Either side of this closing
is turned over like little cuff, which
is lace-edged The saucy little sash
wraps around the body, so as to control
a closing of the blouse, and after per-
forming this essential feat, to be en-
tlrely feminine, it ties itself coquet-
tishly in the back.
Women do not need to lay aside their
knitting with the end of the war. In
stead of helmets and socks they may
knit strips of mercerized cotton.
These strips are joined together with
fagoting anG set in the front Of their
blouses. The knitting for the blouse
sketched on this page was done in
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

from the metal cloth of other seasons,
and combines. more plcasingly with
plain materials than did it's predeces-
sor. A lavender and silver ribbon of
the same curious and artistic weave
threads its way through coarse silk
threads, forming a narrow belt tying
at either side. This gown has not
even suggestion of a sleeve of any
sort. The shoulder seam has been per-
mitted to lengthen itself just a very
little, possibly perhaps as a bit of apol-
ogy.
No French woman hesitates to top
her sleeveless and gloveless costume
by hat. The one worn with the frock
described above has just been sent to us
from LegrouX S9urs, of Paris. Black
net is it's foundation, with narrow
bands of tuscan straw sewn around
both crown and brim. A. wreath of
laurel leaves is it's trimming. Laurel
is used to trim many of the new Paris
hats, perhaps as a symbol of victory.
A frock that has gathered into itself
about all the modish features possible
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
The Short Skirt Advances
Stealthily Upon Us

AT THIS moment there is with us a
great uncertainty about the length
OF skirts. The dictum of Paris is for
short ones; very short ones. All the
French houses stand sponsor to them
and we in America believe that the
snort skirt is advancing upon us again
stealthily, step by although its
nitimate fate here still hesitantly
hangs in the balance. One of the
most difficult clothes questions we have
to settle IS what compromise shall we
make between the skirt measuring
from twelve to sixteen inches from
tns floor, which the Parisienne is
wearing, and the long skirt Of purely
American origin. There is no doubt
about it, French models cannot be
altered TO meet the demand for skirt
10 much longer without material
change Of the original lines and much
Of the style being completely lost
by this change.
Soma Of tho evening gowns az the
recent openings had the skirts draped
70 a. to show the leg almost to the
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
s.sA.,
Can America Create
Her Own Fashionsl

THE question has agltated both New
Il York and Paris for some time.
Even before the war the matter had
aroused spirited controversy Then
the war, and it was no longer a ques-
ton whether America could design.
She must design, and so her designers
who had never tried their wings before
altogether Independent of Paris bent
to with that determination that is born
Of necessity and answered the ques-
ton. America could design.
And foremost among those who were
responsible for the success Of these
efforts was a young girl who had
neither training nor experience in cos
tune designing nor any intention Of
capitalizing a certain cleverness and IN
terest in originating frocks with beau
tiful long, clinging lines and making
them with a very obvious distinction.
This young girl is Miss Ethel Frank
au, and Mr.. Goodman, of Bergdorf 9
Goodman, seeing her work quite by
chance, was SO impressed with it thai
he invited her to design for his clients
And so it is that one of the names
that you see most persistently in con.
nection with beautiful gowns is that
of Miss Frankau, and her latest accon}
plishment is the creation of those ext
ceedingly clever costumes that Mmei
Yvette Guilbert wears in "Guibour."
1t is not Miss Frankau's creed thaF
America should design apart from
Paris. eve still need and we shay
always need. Paris for inspiration'y
she declares, but, however that may
be, it seems to be conclusive that
Miss Frankau we have an apt exampf
of the creative genius of young Amer
lea and that her work is dlstinf'
contribution to the cause of art
dress. c. NJ.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
Shops and Things

Eve'yachere IN the shops arc thu
u'anaistakable signs of joyous
spring, Evidence conclusive that tho
transition from grace to gag, in
ougurated by certain wild clanoor
of bells back i,s Novcmber, is com.
plete.
nF course the outdoors is calling
~ louder and more insistently than
ever, and with a new lure, after the
strenuousness of war and war times
So everything appertaining to sports
and sports clothes promises an unusu-
ally vigorous vogue.
One of the way y-down-town shops
Ph. Weinberg & Sons, to be exact. is
making a special appeal to this state
of things through some golf suits with
a new feature, pivot" sleeve. They
were tried out in the South, these
suits, and thoroughly proved, so un-
doubtedly golf deyotees among the
men up here will be interested in
them. They come in tweed, homespun,
pongee and in variety of other fab.
rics, and aside from this peculiarly
of sleeve, have divers other character
istic finishing touches and are exceed
ingly we'll tailored.
Then any self-respecting outdoor
outfit these days just naturally in
cludes leather coat, which not only
is vastly practical as a guaranteed
protection against the worst the ele.
ments can do, but also eminently good
looking. Moreover, they are distinc-
tive; that is, if they are of genuine
leather, and Franklin Simon's Storm
oleather" coats are absolutely that
genuine leather, and, as if that were
not enough. they are lined with a
soft suede.
The fascination of things Oriental
has lost nothing for US, it seems,
by having been brought to closer no.
tice. Vantine's, which long has epito-
mized to us the subtle beauty and al
lurement of the East, is showing now
some Chinese costumes that are won
drously lovely and, what is moro to the
point, not out of reach of all but the
disciples of Cresus. They arc fash
Toned of brocadod silk in soft or brill
liant colors, blended with all the ef-
fectiveness to be expected, and out
lined with darker banding that is the
one thing needed to emphasize their
beauty of line as we'll as design. Skirts
and coats come separately, too, and
worn with plain over-blouses matching
one of the colors afford another inter-
esting departure in gowning.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
Adventures in Clothes

HXAGGERATION always has been
r. the very essence of fashion.
Women will adventure in clothes.
This exaggeration usually is obtained
by accentuating some portion of the
human body, just as hoopskirts &C
centuated the slim slenderness of the
waist. In the days of our now far-off
Civil War Mrs. Lincoln and the wife of
General Grant walked abroad with
wide, swaying skirts. So full were they
that the waist took on wasplike ~
rearance. Then there came time
when breadth was given to the shoul-
ders by an absurdly large sleeve that
puffed stiffly out at the top. Du Maui
rier ever depicted his lovely ladies
walking in Hyde Park with huge puffs
atop of their shapely arms. Now 1T
seems the aim of Parisienne designers
is to create back to-nature campaign.
With French women wearing skirts that
end halfway between the knee and
ankle, evening gowns cut practically to
the waist line in the back and after
noon frocks with the short sleeves OF
the 1880 period-and many Of them alb
sclutely sleeveless--the question IS not
altogether how we are going to dress,
hut are we about to undress!
We here in this country are in the
very thick of the semi-annual discus
sion of the silhouette-the length OF
skirts, the depth and outline OF the
decolletege and how we shall trim or
nntrim our hats. Paris has had her
openings, and our American buyers have
returned, bringing to us the best
nodels from the varied collections
shown by the great French houses.
These dazzle with their splendor. OF
metal tissue and spangles, they sparkle
and scintiilate, apparently vylng with
one another to Offset the sombre garo
of war time.
With the wars ending France evi-
IDENTIFY expected American women to
burst into wild extravaganza. 1t Is
doubtful, however, if the snowy,
.nanpled and embroidered dresses dis
played by the Paris designers Will be
adonted by our American women for
this summers wear. We IN this coun-
try like simple models. Then too,
the exorbitant prices charged by the
French dressmakers made the pur-
chasing of models almost prohibltlve.
Consequently we may not expect any
price reductions in clothes for some
time to come. But it will not be for
Iona, for the poilus Of France are
returning to work. The looms at
Lyons and st. Etienne are again bus
lily whirring and new weaves of silks
and other fabrics are being made for
the wide, feminine world.
Many of these startling models owe
their existence to new couturiere who
has come into prominence in Paris
She is Madame Renee, formerly the
premiere at the house of Premet. Buy
era who reviewed the collection al
the February openings were amazet
at the clothes exhibited by this clev
er creator. Her costumes showed ,
distinctive freshness and touch tina
was different and new.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
By Sara Marshall Cook

in one model is created by Doeullet
Old-fashioned homespun, corbeau blue
in color, is the material of which it
of silhouette and narrow OF skirt
Much is made of the fiat betting braid
trimming which is laced through drawn
threads Of the homespun. Two widths
of the bclting are used. White cotton
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

fringe, quite heavy and of inch width
in fact, just like the fringe that bed
spreads were bordcred with In Colonial
days-is used as a trimming on the
underslccves and little square chcmi-
scttc of white null This use of
white cotton fringe is new note and
different. 1t offers many suggestions
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

guerreotype and oil portrait of that
day. What is lovelier for sheer fabrics
than these abbreviated sleeves that be-
long TO period when women dressed
more picturesquely than they do now 2
There is little doubt that the short
sleeve has come TO stay. 1t will
remain for the summer. at least.
There arc few gowns or bouses shown
at the openings that do not have short
sleeves, and some Of them none. Even
suits have three quarter length sleeves,
permitting the hands to be carefully
gloved. Martial ct Armand send us
an afternoon gown Of beige colored
crepe de chine literally covered with
silken embroidery in the same tone.
Very short is the crepe de- chine skirt,
but beneath the hem is set a band of
lavender and silver tissue, to fall sew
eral inches below the skirt This tis
sue is very loosely woven and quite
rough IN texture. 1t is very different
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

D0euillef, Of Paris, uses Corbeau blae
Aomespnn to make this frock, and
laees fiat silk braid through drasrn
threads of the cloth. Old fashioned
cotton fringe trims the qphite null un-
dersleeves and Vest. Imported by
Kurzman.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

Another froek sho7ving Chinese inau-
ence is Of Macy blue serge banded qvith
black satin. The vcst is black satin
and the girdle braided black silk
cord. Model from Joseph.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

for adOrnlnH summer frockS, D0ih OF
linen and cotton materials.
The Overblouse tlas
Many Versions
II RENCH women are wearing the
Il ovcrblouse in each of its many
versions. There are some that end at
the waist line in the back and are
finished to go over the skirt with an
inch wide ribbon of unusual weave and
usually in contrasting color. After
finishing the back Of the blouse these
colorful ribbons slip through loops
made by buttoaaole stitching to tie
over the apron front. The fronts of
many of these short-back blouses take
their inspiration from the wastcoat of
the past winter.
Organdie overblous are very smart
They have apron fronts and coquettish
little sashes Of the material edged with
real lace These new organdie blouses
could be combined with separate skirts
of organdic to make an attractive sum-
mer frock.
The late imports Of blouses almost
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23
The Abbreviated Sleeve
An Echo of 1880

MO wonder the makers of clothes
4 have at last turned their atten-
ton to sleeves! No part of the dress
allows freer play to ones creative
fancy In 1880 dressmakers went quite
mad over sleeves and cut up all sorts Of
insane antics with them. And, since this
is the period from which the new short
sleeve takes its inspiration and marks
the difference between this years frock
and last, We may expect present day
modistes to do things equally as anus
ing. That there was method in the
madness OF these oldtime drcssmakcrs
IS attestcd by the beautiful effects nb-
tanned. We see this in every old da-
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

knee, and the shortness at the front
and side accentuated by train. One
clever designer has done some very in
teresting things with her skirts. She
has given an appearance Of length by
putting transparent laces and embroid-
cries at the bottom of the skirt. She
then makes the underskirt several
inches shorter than the outside.
thereby silhouetting the legs. After
accomplishing this on lot of her
evening gowns prepared for the post
Lenten season, she is using the same
treatment on lingerie frocks. For tho
trousseau OF an Easter bride she has
made sheer lingerie frock of old lace
and rare embroidery, ivory in tore.
The petticoat is Of pale pink satin with
a knee-deep fiounce of navy blue chif-
fon. This gives the desired background
at which the designer is aiming. The
effect is as fascinating as it is original.
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

(BeloD, reading lett to ,1oht)
Beaded bag Of the nr7v
Crnr dc France red. Haf
made Of old fashioned
chailis. 4 sports hat Of
gray angora euith dyim
New-York tribune., 1919-03-23

facing Of French blue
sfrnsv. Angora scarf TO
MATCH qvifh gay colorcd
Spool motifs at the end.
Bag and sborn hat from
CM4imq.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25
1915 Thirtieth Street Rock Island

PHONE R. l. 1853.
IIilIllliIIilllIII,IIllIIIllIlIIlIIIrlli
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25

Every garment in this new group
we'll worth one-third more. No Sec
onds, every one absolutely first quail
ity. An early purchase is advisable
for they will have a ready sale tomor-
row. ~
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25
TRINITY CLUB
ELECTS HEADS
Herman G. Applequist Chosen
President of Organization
for Coming Year.

The election of officers and dis
cussion Of plans for an every
member canvass of Trinity parish
was the principle business consid-
cred by Trinity Mems club last ev-
ening at its meeting at the parish
house, Nineteenth street and Sixth
avenue.
Herman G.. Appleqaist was elect
ed president for the coming year.
succeeding E. z. Russell. Other
officers named were: Vice presi-
dent, john W. Potter: secretary,
Harvey E. Sangren; treasurer, r.
Eugene Swanson.
Sunday. July 6, has been select
ed for the canvass of the parish
for increased contributions to meet
the greatly increased expenses of
the church. A similar campaign
was held a year ago and proved
immensely successful. the contri-
buttons for current parish expense
being increased more than $500.
Teams to Canvass.
Fifteen teams of two men each
will canvass the parish thorough
~. A supper will be served next
Tuesday evening at 6:45 O'Clock at
the parish house for the members
of Trinity Mems club ard the men
who will compose thr teams. The
supper will be served By the Girls
Friendly society and. tue meeting
will be the last one OF the club be-
fore fall.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25

nor had engagements with her else
where.
Mrs. Doff and / are going on a
10 days honeymoon to Atlantic
City and New York When we get
back 1 shall ask Judge Sculiy for
writ of inqu:sition to take her
to the psychopathic institute for
examination as to her sanity. She
sure started something when she
started Ill this publicity"
And he concluded almost vtndic-
lively:
''She can count on me to finish
it"
Nobody Home!
As to Miss KaskeFs sanity, put
in question by Ike" Dof, a re-
porter from The Herald and Elk
aminer called at Miss Kaskeps
home, at 1908 Sheridan avenue, last
night, and got as far as the front
door.
In answer to his request for a
statement from Miss Haskell, a
somewhat excited feminine voice
called from an inner and distant
rom:
There's nothing wrong here
absolutely nothing wrong. Don't
put anything in the paper. Go
away. There's nobody home"
Maybe there amt.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25
ERIE

Mrs. Ada Castle and sons Earl and Roy.
left Wednesday for South Dakota. TO oceu-
trip was made. by auto the household
goods being shipped by train a few days
presiding.
Mr.. and Mrs G. A. Sewderus and Mrs.
friends from Davenport "Wednesday Tne
company included MIS-. Feasters daughter,
Mrs. Roy 'Diemer and little daughter.
Mr.. and Mrs. Everett Beemer of Rock
Beemers parents, Mr.. and Mrs. John
Young. Mr.. Beemer returned To his en-
ployment at Rock Island Monday morn
ing. his wife remaining through the week.
william, went 10 Rock Falls. H.. Thurs
day to visit Mr.. SCOTS parents and sas'
ters few days.
George Hoerler and Clyde Miller ar
Rockford. where they were mustered out
of army service. The young men landed
at Newport News several days ago from
overseas.
Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Guthrie received
word that their son Morris has reached
New York from overseas. BE has been
expects to soon return TO his home here.
Mrs. Kirk Thompson received mes
sage Thursday stating that her nephew:
Milford Guthrie of MuSeatine, has arrived
at New York from overseas
Kathleen La Rue. the seven year old
daughter of DR.. and Mrs. &. z. lie Rue,
was Drought nome from the MQlne AOs-
pital Thursday evening and will now be
cared for at home. She was operated on
for appendicitis FIVE weeks ago and about
two weeks ago endured second operation
for an 5hscess which formed in the side.
She was in u critical condition for some
time. but is now improving fast aItnougn
stiIl confined entirely to the bed
Miss Alta Mounce from near Bushneh.
H. was a guest of Miss Edith Heer the
past week.
Miss Dorothea McEntire of Davenport
n D.. a&.WNn SnHWzr ami
attended the Jazz dance Monday evening.
Miss Lillian Phelan from Davenport
was a guest at the Harry Pfundsteln and
Miss PreIan is professional nurse and
took care of the late Mrs. Emma besse
during her last illness.
Miss Lie Hunter was operated upon
abscess in the side. The young lady was
operated upon for appendicitis some time
ago and had apparently recovered. when
recently an abscess developed
Miss Gladys Talcott is visiting friends
at Shabbona. ILL.,. having been relieved
of her work as bookkeeper in B. L
Burchells store by the return OF Arthur
Carlson from army service overseas.
Mrs. William Dillon and children from
Princeton. H., visited her sister. " rs
Grace stoudt and other relatives last
Reports from the outlying farming dis
tricts in regard to the army worm state
that the worms are being killed by the
use of the preparation recommended hy
the government and farmers are hopeful
that the entire destruction of their crops
may he prevented
The strawberry shorteake supper given
by the Ladies Aid society of the Ere
NJ E church, Thursday evening was not
so largely patronized usual owing to
the intense heat and busy season, bat
those present enjoyed a delicious meal.
served under the supervision of the presI-
dent of the society. Mrs George Mauer-
Mr.. and Mrs Lee Daniels and daughter
Viva arrived horne THURSDAY from ex-
tended visit to the formers brother,
Leonard Daniels and family at Burt Iowa.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25
.EErHAm'S
Pills

Lszssss Sale e Aay Medicine is The WsgiA
Sold sveEywbere. n b0zess 1oess 2Se.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25

In point of style and quality of fab
RIGS, there are models we'll worth one
fourth more. They consist of plain
and check, plaid and striped fabrics,
with neat collars and cuffs, pockets
and belted. They are exceptional at
this pricing.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25

DR.. T. H. McMiehael for his pres
ence at our convention and for his
most helpful bible messages and for
the splendid address to which we
have listened this evening.
Third, that we as representa-
tfYes of the various societies DO
our utmost to stir our societies to
greater effort that we might win the
st. Louis trophy cup.
Fourth, that we thank the Of
ficers of the convention for their
services in planning for and carry
ing out the program of the eonven
ton and making it helpful for the
delegates.
Fifth, that we extend to the en-
tertaining church our heartfelt
thanks for their generous hospital
ity il making our visit more pleas
ant and enjoyable"
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1919-06-25
When
Your Liver is
out Of Order

You know the signs-a
neavy head, sick stomach.
bad taste in the mouth,
latent dyspepsia. Pay strict
attention to these symptoms
and get prompt relief by
using Beecham's Pills. A
few doses will stimulate the
liver, help the stomach, reg
ulate the bowels and make
a great difference in your
general feeling. Nothing
will put you on y~Ir feet so
quickly as a dose or two of