The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1919-02-26
Chanticleer Holds Sway
 On Parisian Headgear

Chanticleer crows over many hat brim in Paris and is embroidered on many blouse. 4 gay, brilliant sea- son is here and in every type of gown and every detail of apparel color, bright and vivid runs riot. Bleu de France is the color of the hour, and from a rough straw turban with a taf- feta bow suggestion the Alsatian head dress with its gay little cockade, to en- tire evening gowns, this patriotic and becoming color takes an important place. Canary yellow, too, is featured strongly. Indeed, one might say that this season almost every striking color will be popular.
 Every indication points to the Di- rectoire mode as the inspiration for coming fashions. The February open ings, the first since the war, may only serve as prelude to later develop ments. But the fashions for the spring and summer of 1919, says Vogue, will undoubtedly look back to this period for many characteristics. This does not necessarily mean high waist-lines. On the contrary, the waist-line will be nearly normal in most cases although, during this transitogy season, some Empire lines, as well as a few low Roman and Grecian waists will be seen.
 The real Directoire influence will be seen in the necklines, the invariably short sleeves, and the draped swathed skirt, which must of necessity be long, The simple lines and the vogue for many colors show the Directoire influ- ence strongly, and yet some of the new bizarre embroideries suggest an exotic Oriental tendency that may and
 probably will be strongly felt when the races at Longchamp recurs in June and when Ascot Week arrives.
 One new embroidery, now in Amerf-
 ca and soon to appear on a simple
 black silk jersey afternoon or restau-
 rant frock, is a, ten-inch border of silver pailettes intertwined with a bold trailing black lilies of various growth. These elaborate hems on day dresses are gaining great favor at the moment an outgrowth. perhaps, of the jet
 chapeaux which all Paris has been
 wearing during the late autumn. A
 simple but rarely bizarre note is seen
 in Q charming mauve and silver Lan-
 win tunic of almost ankle length. An
 all-Over embroidery in a Persian scroll
 is done in a pulled navy blue flat
 braid, and a Spanish embroidery, also
 from Lanvin, is composed of a flat
 I
 blue. Beaded frocks are chic; they
 are seen in flesh and canary color. Georgette crepe and in that lovely
 new satin-fnished jersey, Djersa caha, of Rodler's.
 As opposites attract. 80 does one extreme follow another. High col larless necks on so-caIled dinner gowns are now replaced by extrem de- collete. That correct couturiere, Madame Jenny, who has evolved some i of the most charming evening gowns created since long before the war iE cutting her bodices in the back quite l to the waistline. Here, as elsewhere | dropping lines seem to be the invari- i able movement in bodices, although
 for satins and tissues suitable for 1 tailoring or for stiff effects, a tight brassiere effect is much favored by the 1 couturiers.
 1 So far as Parisian separate b1ouses i go, lace will be practically eliminated | a simple eyelet work is a Ia mode. The peasants have had other work than 1 Iace-making to do, and patriotic France, not unmindful of this fact, frowns on both Chinese filet laces and machine-made laces. Much embrOid- cry will be used on these charming new blouses, and gold and silver rib bons are often introduced amusingIy on an open, sagging, collarIess back l where they tie in a tiny bow with very l long streamers The blouses this season 1 are almost costumes in themselves. Outer garments offer a variety of | equally smart styles. While many disa- greements may take place in the de tailed development of wraps, on one i point all agree-capes and cape-coats | will hold the stage and generally they 1 will be elaborate. The movement
 which appears in the costumes and | blouses is found again in the man l teauX, which frequently have, in ad- 1 dition, big draped collars.
 As for the tailleur, it has a prOmis- 1 ing future, although France is never 1 so devoted to the suit as is America. The new tailleurs are invariably made
 with box coats, generally with little | tight skirts much shorter than those 1 of the gowns. The coats are the fea lures of these taiIIeurs, and they aI- ways tie, rather than button. Ere popular belt. A charming develop l ment of hip treatment is noticeable in
 many of the early tailleur coats. | Waistcoat effects are often seen, usual l ly of some bright silk jersey. Indeed, | many of the tailored dresses resem bIe
 waistcoat suits, and the manner of | getting in and out of them alone de- 1 tsrmines their station. The favored l tailleur is seen, not only in navy blue,
 but also in pencil stripes and white
 checks, blocked on navy blue and 1 black gowns.