davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21

City on the relation Of dress to
morals, was one Of about 104 women
of prominence who were appointed
by the social hygiene section Of the
United States Commission on Train
ing Camp Activities to travel about
the United States to lecture on
women's clothes, morals and conduct.
Acting under the terms Of her ap-
pointment, DR.. Jefferis delivered
scores Of addresses in Ohio, Michi-
gan, Indiana, Massachusetts,, Yer
mont and New York. She spoke in
colleges, clubs, factories, cotton mills,
airplane factories, social organiza-
tions, department stores, pharma-
ceutical factories, high schools, and
before other organizations, generally
before women and girls, although oc-
casionally her audiences were made
up Of boys and men.
These lectures were delivered dur
ing the war, at a time when, in the
wave Of patriotism, many women
had "lost their emotional balance"
and were considered in great danger
because of their desire to be helpful
to the men in uniform.
Like Lieutenant Maynard, DR..
Jefferis is emphatic in her denun-
citation Of the extreme and extrava-
CANT in feminine apparel, calling
them "vulgar and inartistic."
She took what many might con-
slider sharp slap at her sisters by
asserting that "the average woman
does not seem to know how to dress.
The other day I ssood on Fifth
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
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derstand. I think 1t simply SINNERS
down to this, that the mothers do not
care what appeal their daughters
make. They wish to marry their
daughters and are willing to rely on
means Of capture which are not alto
gether holy.
"But want to say that i have
talked with hundreds Of men, and
even those who do not pretend to be
Christians, even immoral men, wish
that women would be moro moral in
their dress"
DR.. Royal S. Copeland, Health
Commissioner Of New York, after
ward came to the rescue Of the ac-
cused women by asserting that high
heels and low gowns had no i'll effects
on their health, but as he refrained
from commenting on the moral phase
OF the controversy, his remarks are
considered by the adherenty Of the
Maynard schoor as having no i'm
mediate bearing on the bigger prob
lem involved.
Obviously, Lieutenant Maynard be-
lieves that If there is a psychological
progression" toward the beginning
Of the dress cycle It ought promptly
to be checked, and he has found a
vigorous champion In DR.. Esther I.
Jefferis. chairman Of the Public
Health Education Committee of the
Medical Society of the County of
New York. I
Il Won,an Backs Maynard
Dr.. Jeheris, who IL ono Of tho
foTsmost authorities In New Ymk
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
Women's dress, past
and present. And
then as nO1u there
10 ere those 1Uho
found fault.

Avenue and watched the Styles" she
said. II was amazed by the hit-and-
miss effect achieved by some of the
women. The thing was kaleido-
scopic. No other word will explain
it. One woman had on a hat which
did not particularly become her, a
brown leatherette coat with black
belt, the general effect being made
still more strange by the long gold
pendants at her ears. This is only
one Of the many examples Of poor
taste I saw and illustrates what I
mean.
"But when it comes to the extreme
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
The Agitation Recently Precipi-
tated by Lieutenant Maynard
Common to All Periods

physical life, but she destroys al
the illusions when she goes in for
inordinate display Of her person.
"Instead Of developing the lovely
side Of life, she stimulates what is
sensual"
DR.. Jefferis takes sharp issue,
however, with the persons who, like
Lieutenant Maynard, believe that ex-
tremes in dress affect young men
more adversely than men who are
more advanced in years
DRESS is the age-old expression
Of sex attraction" she said. "It is
only natural and inevitable that it
should be. Sex attraction is the fin
est and holiest thing in life, when
looked at in the right way.
But I do not believe extremes in
dress infame young men as much as
they do the mature. Young men
have their ideals and such exhibit
tions disgust them. They experience
distinct feeling Of shock. The
older men, on the other hand, know
the significance Of things, and, be-
sides, many of them have compro-
missed with their illusions So there
is only one appeal that dresses
which are either too short or too
long make to them.
"Of course, women make a bid
for marriage through their clothes,
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
Bv Arnold D. Prince

A THOUGH nearly 1000
: "a wears ago q man who had
1 \ won al extensive reputa-
ton for wisdom found
...ss,on to admonish women be-
.suss Of their extravagant attire,
.omplaints continued to be received
nm, time to time that the offenders
Displayed very little desire to mend
heir conduct. Recently, however,
these complaints have gained great
I, IN volume, some critics going 50
t,r as to say that never in modern
dsys have the styles been more dar-
jue. Clergymen, students Of health
and psychology and experts on sta
nsics have been drawn into the dis
:ussion.
In trying to find an explanation
Tor this renewed display Of femi-
nine insurgency the one big fact
which stands out is that not all per-
sons are Of one mind on the subject.
Some say the money made by
nsny persons out of the war Is en-
tirely to blame, adding that newly
acquired wealth always results In a.
certain amount of ostentation which
II the case Of women, is expressed
IN dress. Why, in periods of pros
perity, gowns sometimes rise at the
neck and at other times recede be-
low the shoulder blades, can be ex-
phined only, they say, by the pecu-
Lar temper Of the times in whicl
The wearers happen to be living. A
present, they go on, the tendency in
evening apparel is to leave the neck
bare, and as the rise in personal
fortunes was very great, the down
ward trend in fashions is proper
'ionately marked, resulting in the
backless styles in use In the most
advanced circles to-day.
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
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money changed hands, and some of
it fell into the possession Of people
who have not inherited taste or ac-
CURED it through education. They,
or their husbands, have come into
wealth, and not knowing how else to
express their new condition, strive
to do 1t through clothes"
Is a Feminist
DR.. Jefferis, it should be- ex-
planned, is not an "unemancipated
woman" with Eighteenth century
Ideals" but a vigorous worker for
suffrage; so her views are fully in
accord with what she considers the
brightest principles Of feminism.
The more sane we keep our wom-
en-, the better men we will have" she
went on. "Of course, do not be-
lieve that women must wear their
evening gowns with necks that come
up to their chins, or any silly non
sense like that, but I do believe in
good taste.
1--WE must realize that the respon-
sibility for maintaining social mo-
rality rests squarely with the wom-
en- and girls, and that they must
meet their obligations through the
avenues Of dress, proper conduct
and right thinking.
~Wo1nan has the power through
dress to suggest the lovely side Of
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
omens Dress Once More Becomes an Issue
STYLES Do Not Lead but Follow
Public Morals, Is Verdict
of Psychologists

Ing point Of the cycle, which had its
inception under more smiling skies
4 Parsons Verdict
But there is yet another group, of
which the Rev. Belvin w. MAYNARD
commonly called the Flying parson,"
Is member, which has no patience
with these views. Lieutenant Mayn-
ard takes what he says is a common
sense attitude, asserting that the
conduct Of the women who have
gone In for the extreme fashions is
"disgraceful."
II think it is appalling" no said
in amplifying a sermon he had
preached at the Hanson Place Meth
odist Church, Brooklyn, "that our
women should take ADVANTAGE of the
protection accorded them to make
the appeal they do with their cloth
ing.
Il could not but be displeased by
the evening gowns which are cut 50
low IN the back that one can count
every vertebra from the waist up.
1T Is the fault of the older women.
OF course. At least, some Of the
young girls probably are innocent Of
the appeal they are making, though
l realize that not all Of them are.
But l cannot see what the mothers
mean. Certainly they ought to un-
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
Blame 1t on the Wdr

Other students of conditions give
an entirely different explanation.
These hold to the theory that after
every war there is an invariable re-
action toward extravaganza and
gayety, and that what is happening
in the United States to-day Is mere
" the usual working out Of this
principle. Look at the kind Of plays
being shown at the theaters, they
say. Have you ever known q time
when there were so many musical
comedies? Or when the costumes
were 50 colorful and abbreviated, or
the dancing was more plentiful?
Behind the footlights, they insist,
the trend Is all toward the light and
sne amusing, and even in popular
literature the general desire seems
70 be to produce something that will
olspel the gloom Of the war. People
want laughter, lights and frivolity
and are seeking them everywhere !.
So women In private life, in
sdopting the raiment which some
md so Objectionable, have simply
peen trying to bring themselves into
harmony with the times and Loyalty
% their share in helping men and
mankind to forget the troublesI
brought on by the fighting.
A third school takes still a differ
ent view. These approach the sub
'ect from a deeply psychological
and sociological aspect, seeing in the
modern trend the nearing compile
non Of a cycle in dress morals,
which began when women first|
ssalized the value Of ornamentation
and put on beads to attract atten-
ton.
From goatskin dresses to flowing
Fqbes with sandals was one Of the
s9ps in this progression. After
that came the high ruffs, the IRON
bound farthingales and the tower
Ike coiffures which gave the head
'he general appearance Of q full
sgged ship, and then the crinolines,
which made the women appear to bel
Sanding upright in inverted para
ehutes.
Ihe intermediate stages Of the
Cfess cycle, say the members Of this
'saool, were all for an overabun-
0ance OF wearing apparel az means
VI accentuating the wearer's charms,
'a' recently the arc Of progression
aas been back toward the starting
sOlnt' Now fewer clothes are con-
'As'ssd proper, although hardly
Nyoody contends that the inclemen-
''es OF the climate. especially in such
y - inalude New York, win per-
: ssaD'sts ratuzA T. ~ start
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21

styles In evening gowns, there Is
one thing women should remember.
This is, that men look to them to
preserve their ideals, and when the
women vulgarize themselves by too
lavish display Of their bodies they
not only disappoint the men, but
they do not live up to their oppor-
tunities to stimulate the higher
things in the mental, moral and
physical aspects of life.
Zone explanation of the things
some women are going in for may
be had from the fact that as a re-
suit of the war a great deal Of
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21
Lily May Be Painted

"A woman must wear something
bright or most men wouldn't know
she existed. They wouldn't know
whether she had brown eyes or blue,
and they would pass her by With
out paying any attention to her. I
firmly believe, therefore, in evening
dresses OF the kind that bring out
the loveliness Of women, and are
only opposed to those which are
vulgar.
"Now, as for the effect of styles
on women's health. 1t must be ad-
mitted that from the standpoint Of
the physician some of the innova-
tions are not harmful. On the con-
trary, the dresses which hang from
the shoulder, as so many of them do
now, probably are more healthful
for the woman than the old kind
which bound her body in too tightly.
"By this I do not mean that wom-
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21

but there is nothing wrong in that.
A woman owes 1t to herself and the
man to make herself as attractive
as possible. 1t is entirely right for
her to desire to be married. But in
carrying out this ambition she must
hold fast to her womanliness and
not destroy the mans ideals III
less, at the same time, she wants to
DESTROY herea1f
New-York tribune., 1919-12-21

A THOUGH nearly 1000
~ years ago q man who had
\ won All extensive reputa-
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
everyone BOOSTING
THE COUNTY FAIR
People All Over County Are
Taking An Exceptional
Interest This Y ear

Preparations for the Knox county
fair are progressing nicely, and the Of.
ficials are confident that the county
will have the best and most enthusi-
astic fair that has been held in Mt.
Vernon for q great many years. The
people all over the county are taking
an exceptional interest in the fair this
year, and everywhere they are getting
out and doing their bit for the cause
OF the big fair in the county seat. This
is the pep that the fair boosters de-
sire and every one Interested is high
ly pleased.
The farmers will turn out this year
with the largest stock exhibit that has
ever been shown in this city, and their
wives and daughters are already busy
with their plans for their baking and
sewing exhibits. One Of the biggest
features of the fair this year will be
| the Domestic Science contest among
the girls Of the county. The boys will
be given their turn at showing their
dads just how best to Judge cattle and
all the other things that grow on the
farm, that boys on the farm should be
interested in and know something
about.
The fair board is preparing twenty
additional race horse stalls for the
increased number of entries in the
county races this year. No one in the
county who loves horse race can af
ford to be absent any day of the biz
fair. Forty horses have been LISTED
for the three big stake races, $500
stake each, and these horses ART
among the best that are In the state
of Ohio, and are horses that have beef
doing good work throughout the mat
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
SCHOOL EXHIBIT 81 At
THE COUNTY FAIR
Displays Must Be In Hands
Of County Superintendent
By August Is

Entries for school displays and in
dividual premiums for the county fair
must be in the hands of the county
superintendent by o'clock Aug. IT,.
Entry blanks can be obtained from
the secretary of the Knox County Ag-
ricultural society, Charles L. iBer-
mont, whose Office is in the First Ma
tional Bank building, Mt. Vernon, or
from the county superintendent of
schools.
Mr.. Bermont or Mr. Marriott will
be pleased to mail the premium list
and complete instructions to any per-
sons who may desire them if they
will make their wishes known.
1t is especially desired to have a
good representation of exhibits from,
the rural and village schools of the
county at the fair this fall.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
FIRE OCCURS ON
THE PUBLIC SQUARE
Blaze Does Small Amount of
Damage To The Knox Har-
ness Store Monday
Night

Fire was discovered in the rear of
west corner of the square, Monday
night at 10 o'clock. The alarm was
Immediately turned in and the fire
department soon had the flames
extinguished. The firemen had the
fire out before any considerable dam.
age was done to the building.
The fire started in an old ash bar
rel at the rear of the store, and by
the time the flames were stopped the
weatherboarding of the rear of the
building WAS badly charred. Starting
where it did, the fire had a fair
chance of becoming very serious.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
CENTERBURG

Clarence Sutton of Springfield
spent the week END here.
Harry Silliman of Detroit was a
Centerburg visitor Friday.
Mrs. s. r. Best and son, Robert, of
Gary, Ind, were guests of friends
here few days last week.
l.. M. and Harley Thomas spent
Monday in Columbus.
Fern C. Fowler returned to Akron
Sunday after spending two weeks
with relatives here.
Mrs. Harry Read of Fostoria is a
guest in the home OF his parents, Mr..
and Mrs. +. b. Hanover.
Mr.. and Mrs. Frank Harvey of
Youngstown are guests OF local rela-
tives.
DR.. e. b. Walter spent Sunday in
Columbus.
C. w. Barr, son of Mr.. and Mrs. j.
A. Barr. has received his discharge
from the navy and returned to his
home here. ,,''rs
Mr.. and Mrs. III. b. Ramey spent
Sunday with friends in Delaware.
Mr.. aud Mrs. ii. B. Ramey spent
Sunday with friends in Delaware.
Mrs. r. f. Glaze of Columbus is
visiting in the j. B. Messmore home.
Miss Hulah Phillips returned home
Sunday from an extended visit with
relatives in Chicago.
Mr., and Mrs. e. f. Reynolds spent
over Sunday with friends at Circle
vile.
Messrs. Frank and o. M. Thatcher
attended the races at Columbus Sat
urday.
S. b. Lynn, who has been in failing
health for some time past, is taking
treatment at Mt. Carmel hospital,
Columbus.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
The BOYS, ROOSEVELT

The National Council of the Boy
Scouts of America has adopted a
memorial to Theodore Roosevelt. 1t
sets forth in terse sentences the
things which made him an admirable
example for all boykind, and endear.
ed him to the people of all classes
and types.
AS text for boys to follow, or for
their elders to live by, it nears per
fection. AS truthful tribute to a
great man it can not be said to be
Overdrawn. Some of it follows.
"He was frail; he made himself a
tower of strength. He was timid; he
made himself lion of courage. He
was a dreamer; he became one of the
greatest doers of all time.
Men put their trust in him;
women found champion in him;
kings stood in awe of him, but child
rem made him their playmate.
HE was loyal to his country, and
he exacted loyalty; he loved man,
lands, but he loved his own land best
"He was free from self-pity; clear
with cleanness that cleansed the all
like gale.
Ellis courtesy knew no wealth OF
class; his friendship no creed or color
or race.
''He fought injustice and tyranny
bore sorrow gallantly; loved al
nature.
wherever he went he carried his
own pack, and in the uttermost parts
of the earth he kept his concience fol
his guide"
Here indeed, as Stevenson would
say, "Is a task that calls for all tha
a man has of fortitude and of delica
cy."
What parent but would choose tha
his boy live by such standards? Wha
child but would be better were thes
standards the daily example set be
fore his eyes?
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
FOOD COSTS = STOCK MARKETS

The assertions of food.manufactur-
ers that they are not at all respon.
sible for burdensome prices would be
more convincing il 1t were not for the
tell-tale testimony of the stock mar
ket.
Almost without exception, the stock
of corporations engaged in making or
handling foodstuffs and drinks has
gone up lately. There seems to have
been more of boom in them than In
almost any other line of securities.
The market-price of securities is a
pretty good barometer. When there
is boom in any line, it means that
that line is making more money thar
usual.
There is no question that the food
industry in general has been making
a great deal of money. And however
the men interested may justify theil
profits to themselves, they will have
great difficulty in justifying them tt
the public on whom the burden falls.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
PALMYRA

The Sunday school class Of Loyal
Sons and Daughters met Tuesday
evening at the Beheler home and
held their annual election of officers,
as follows: President, Fora Beheler;
vice president, Pearl Weller; secre-
tary, Katherine Beheler; treasurer
Walter Leedy.
Mr.. Harry Mccoy and family visit
ed his brother, Don, and family, near
Mt Vernon, Sunday.
Miss Clara Morgan of Butler was
the guest OF her cousin, Helen STRAIT
er, Sunday.
Miss Agnes Auten Of Rawson was
visiting relatives in this vicinity the
past week.
Mr.. and Mrs. J. w. Auten spent
Sunday with the family OF Mr.. Finley
Auten, near Fredericktown, Sunday.
Orange Hamilton and family wen
to Bellville Sunday morning to at
tend the funeral OF the thirteen-year
old son OF Levi Walker. The boy wa
drowned while swimming with som
other boys.
Mrs. w. A. Marts is taking treat
ment at Magnetic Springs.
Mr.. George Shultz and family leav
Thursday for few weeks visit wit
parents and relatives in West Vii
ginia.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
BRIDGE GOES OUT
OVER THE JELL0WAY
Heavy Rains Of Monday Night
Cause More Damage In
Eastern Knox CO.

The heavy rain of Monday night re-
suited in more damage throughout
eastern Knox county. The bridge ov'
er the Jelloway at Howard was wash
ed away by the high water, according
to reports received at the county sur
veyor's Office Tuesday morning.
According to report, a number of
small culverts were also washed out
and several roads were badly dam.
aged by water in the eastern part OF
the county.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
coURT-MARTIAL REFORM

One new article of war and changes
in thirty others have been recon-
mended by the special board which
has been investigating the court mar.
tial system of the army. The report
of the board soon will be transmitted
in full to the congress for action.
Secretary Baker said, in speaking
Of the matter:
1T may be that the board, upon the
whole, finds no radical defects in the
system, and it attributes the greater
part of the just criticism not to in
herent faults in the system itself, but
rather. to the inexperienced person,
mel called upon to administer 1t at a
time of stress. when the great thing
was to get 100000 men quickly in
shape for the fighting line"
Undoubtedly most of the mistakes
made in the conduct of the war arose
from this same source, but 1t will be
a matter of popular feeling that the
new court martial proceedings shall
be so definitely outlined as to make
a similar misinterpretation and in
justice unlikely to occur again, what
ever the conditions.
1t is true, of course, that except in
isolated cases, no soldier not guilty
of some misconduct suffered punish
ment, and that the way for soldier
to avoid unpleasant court martial pro-
ceedings is to behave himself.
Nevertheless, punishment for cruel
ty or misapplication of the army rules
should be as drastic as for military
offenses on the part of the soldier. 1t
would have healthy tendency to put
a check upon any inexperienced per.
sonnel" in future.
The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1919-08-08
SHOWS
NEW TIRE FACTORY

There is on exhibit at the Chamber
OF Commerce a photograph OF the
drawing for the proposed building for
the Knox Tire G. Rubber Co. The
photograph is attracting much atten.
ton, as 1t shows in detail the hand
some building which will no doubt be
erected in this city on the site select
ed just north Of the Mt. Vernon
Bridge works.