davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21

popularity is accountable for The Dc.
sign Of a black velvet cape illus.
trated to-day The upper part, IKE
the skirt tunic, falls in ripping full
ness over tight underpiece Of tho
velvet which Stimulates the slim
underskirt of the new frocks.
Fur is mounted on chiffon to
make il pliable and then it is
draped both at the top and bot
tom Of the gathered portion Of
the cape, which is made Of one
straight piece folded back at either
side to a width of at least twelvs
inches to form two puffy little
muifs, one for each hand. These
two tiny muifs at either side through
which the hands slip make one OF
the new closings.
1t is enc of the most interesting
and unusual capes of the season, and
one that could easily he copied BY
any woman who is at all skilled IN
the use Of the needle. Both the Vel'
vet and lightweight fur, which Is
Japanese sable, are easily sewn
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
Evening Hats
That Enhance Beauty

FLATS for the evening are becom-
ing more important Many
women are again wearing black pict-
ure hats with evening gowns. These
arc very large, and worn slightly off
the face. 1t is surprising that
women ever gave up such a beautiful
custom as the wearing of evening
hats, for the simplest Of gowns is
given importance when topped by a
large filmy hat. 1t is certain that a
woMan's beauty is enhanced when
her face is framed by a beautiful
hat; this is especially true in the
evening.
The black hat Will always be most
popular for evening wear, because it
goes with frock Of any color, and
no woman wants a wardrobe full Of
evening hats. MiNgling, however,
with the much liked hat of black are
some III a new shade--a soft, silvery
blue known as moonlight.
There are innova tons in evening
wraps, many Of them being cut in
one piece, very much like the seven
teenth century cloak, but instead Of
being complete circle, slashcd half
way across the diameter to form the
openings like those worn by our
ancestors, they are a semicircular
piece OF cloth, to be draped about
the shoulders.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21

son seemed shockingly low cut in the
back, and we wondered II women
would ever wear such bodices. That
they would, and did. everybody al
ready knows, but we can only sur
mise as to whether American women
will go still further in wearing
models which have the decolletage
low in front as we'll as in the back.
Now the bodice Is nothing more
than strip of the ma erial from
which the dress is made. A bit of
folded tulle, serving as modesty
piece, ekes out this meagre corsage
at the top, and to it the shoulder
straps are fastened.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
Trains That Creep
Away to Mere Threads

SEVERAL of the newest evening
dresses suggest the crinoline
others have panniers; while still
others, of the more dignifed types,
achieve their fulness entirely
through dr~pery. The full tunic,
when used Ell this type of cos
tune, is cut so as to continue into a
long pointed train. Trains, which
still are receiving great deal of
attention, very often are placed on
the shortest of skirts. These trains,
however, are remarkably narrow,
creeping away into slender threads.
Never were women so undressed
rs they are in this seasons evening
gowns. The decolletage Of last sea-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
The Deco]letage Goes
Still Lower

T<VENING dresses for this win
n. ter are boufant in outline and
gay in color. We did not think
it possible that there could be more
gorgeous combinations of fabrics
than were seen in this summers dim
ner and dance frocks, but the newest
collections show us that there is no
limit to what we may expect.
The dinner gown of silver or gold
tissue, SO prominent at the spring
openings, fades into insignficance
beside the new arrivals. Fabric
makers are no longer content with
the beauty of metal cloth alone and
70 have taken to broca ding it with
velvet to produce something even
more elaborate. This use of brocade
is accountable for revival of
quaint oldtime patterns, many Of
them in designs reminiscent of the
eighteenth century.
Not only are metal cloth and
velours combined to make these as
tOnishing things, but other strange
unions are taking place. For in
stance, heavy velvet may stripe OF
brocade a sheer material such as
chiffon, and voiles are patterned
with fur in the form of stripes or
conventional brocaded designs. Then
there are stamped metal velvets as
we'll as cloth of steel embroidered in
GOLD
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
Venise Lace Combined
With Velvet for Beauty

l ACE and embroidery are much in
evidence in the evening. Pam
niers of beautiful lace veil frocks of
g3istening silver cloth. Among the
laces, Chantilly is most often Sc
lected, because black is so we'll liked
this season. Black Chantilly lace
not only is beautiful, but adapts
itself unusually we'll to the tunic
drapery. One sees, too, a great deal
OF Venise lace being used to form
these. 1t frequently is combined
with velvet to make costumes of TN
usual beauty.
In the wake of lace comes tulle.
1t is many year since we have wit
messed such a profuse use of net.
which more often is used in combina-
ton with other materials than as
fabric from which to evolve an en-
tire frock. Brown is not only the
leading color in this fabric, but en-
tremely effective, especially in the
soft wood shades.
The evening headdress so popu-
lar IN Paris is now being adopted by
American women. Many of these
are in the form of malines crown.
winch sits lightly on the head, and
from which spring sprays of
algrettes OF clusters of ostrich
feathers that have been subjected to
one of the many new treatments that
1eathers are receiving. Sometimes
one sees particularly magnificent,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
The unic s Influence
On Dress in General

NHE adding of a tunic to a skirt
appears to the casual observer as
very simple thing. 1t is only
through close observation that we
realize how this can influence all
other articles of dress. The tunic's
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21
lricolette Clings
Q It's Popularity

ENHERE is no new arrival among
materials that has yet been aO''
to diminish the popularity of trlcO'
lette. Like blue serge, it has cone
to stay. 1t is a fabric too adap'ap'
TO be easily supplanted. At first We
thought that it could only be asea
for very simple, straight-linsa =
gowns. Now, however, we hna
len ling itself to draped skirts "
we'll as over blouses and tunes
At the bottom Of the page is
tricolette frock featuring botn ai'
perry and embroidery. The was,
has panels caught to circular PAM
at the top and attached loosely 10 '1'
waistline at the bottom. Un '.-'
skirt are four loose hanging paiel''
the two back ones being turned uA
der and attached to the slender u"
dershirt. The embroidery was pace
on the ends of the back panels W
fore they were looped up so tha' :.
shows only with the movement -
TIE skirt as the wearer walks.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1919-09-21

headdress Of paradise Young girls
are wearing simple bands of silver
or gold ribbon to encircle youthful
couture.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
WAI..ACE J.. GROOM

Wallace T. Groom, eighty, a manu-
facturer, editor and economist, died
early Friday morning at his home. %
Jefferson Avenue. Brooklyn. Mr.. Groom
had been i'll and confined to his room
Tor the last eighteen months
Wallace ?. Groom was born in Sara
toga, N. Y. He was educated in the
public schools and the academy at
Saratoga. In 1868 he became secreta ~
and treasurer of the Printing Press
Manufacturing Company and in the
same year VAS made editor in chief Of
"The New York Mercantile Journal
and other smaller publications. Mr..
Groom was vigorously opposed to the
use Of gold or silver as money, and he
advocated the "interchangeability Cat
the option of the holder) Of national
paper money with government bonds,
bearing a fixed rate of interest"
For three years Mr.. Groom was sec
retary of the New York Board Of
Trade He was member of the Nation
al Board of Trade and he represented
that body in meetings of the United
Boards of Trade and Chambers of
Commerce OF Canada and the United
Boards of Trade and Chambers of Com
merce of Great Britain.
Since 1893 he had been actively en-
gagged in real estate. He was in charge
of the finances of the Brooklyn In
stitute Of Arts and Sciences and it's
museum for many years. Mr.. Groom
was secretary to the national conyen-
tions of 1879 and 1876 which were de-
voted to promoting the improvement Of
the country's legal tender. He was Il
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Russian Town Stormed
And Taken by Anti-Reds

NDON, Aug. 3-The town of
Omega, on the North Russian front, has
been bombarded and captured by anti
Bolshevik forces, according to wire
less Bolshevik military report received
here this evening.
The wireless says: "Following a
bomb mbbardment Of Omega, the enemy
landed and took the town, the northern
part of which was burning.">
Omega is on the Gulf og Omega, an
arm of the White Sea to the west of
Archangel. Late in July Major Gem
eral William E. Ironsides, commander
in-chief on the Archangel front, re-
ported to London that tho Russian
troops had mutinied, joined the Bol
sheviki and handed over the town Of
Omega and the Omega front to the
Bolsheviki. The Bolsheviki also tried
to take the railroad front, where a
few British were stationed with the
Russians, but were repulsed. No
British troops were on the Omega
front
A dispatch from London Saturday
night quoted Bolshevik official com
munication, dated Friday, as saying
that the Bolsheviki had "advanced'
twenty-seven miles northward of
Omega.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Lifting of German
Blockade ReneWs
Russian Problem
Allies Now Compelled to
Decide Whether Trade
Ban Against Bolshevik
Regime Shall Continue
Copyright. 1910. New York Tribune Inc }

copyright 1919. New York Tribune Inc
PARIS, Aug. 3.-The Russian prob
lem will be revived before the Supreme
Council this week, as the lifting of the
blockade on Germany July II has made
necessary Il decision as to whether the
Allied and associated nations may
resume commercial relations with the
Bolsheviki. If the blockade Of Russia
is to be maintained in the face of Ger
man competition in that country, some
measures must be determined upon to
render the blockade effective, and a de-
cision remains to be reached as to the
trade policy which ueutrals are ex-
pected to pursue.
The Russian blockade existed only
because Of the German blockade. and
the lifting of the latter and the defeat
pectcd to prevent food supplies of
Eastern Russia from reaching the Boil
sheviki, have crushed the Allied hopes
Of starving Lenine and Trotzky into
submission,
Sweden and Denmark already have
officially inquired of the Supreme
Council what regulations would govern
merchandise destined for the Bolshe-
wiki. Swedish merchants have gone so
far as to load ships with agricultural
machinery to be shipped to Russia at
their own risk.
Among the other questions which the
council must faca is whether it Will
continue to supply war materials to the
anti BolShevik forces and at the same
time allow similar supplies to reach
the Reds through a raised blockade.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Mccormack Asks to Sing
At Hamnerstein Funeral
Irish Tenor to Pay Tribute to
Inpresario Who Brought
Him to This Country

John Mccormack, the Irish tenor,
whom Oscar Hammerstein brought to
this country, has requested that he be
allowed to sing at the funeral services
of the impresario, who died Friday
night in the Lenox Hill Hospital. Mr.
Mccormack made thi srequest of Ar
thur Hammerstein, the son of Oscar
Hammerstein, last night. He will use
a selection from "Elisir d'Amore" and
"The Lost Chord" at the services, which
will be held at II o'clock this morning
in the Temple Emanuel, 521 Fifth
Avenue.
A long line of persons who wished to
pay tribute to Mr.. Hammerstein formed
yesterday at the Campbell Funeral
Church, where the body lay in state
The bier was surrounded with floral
tributes from opera stars, actors, mu-
steal and theatrical associa tions Mem
bers Of the IIammerstein family re-
mancd all day at the Funeral Church.
The management of the Rialto Thea
ire, the site of Hammerstein's Victoria
Theatre, announced last night that as a
tribute to Mr.. Hammerstein a bugler
will sound taps from the roof of the
building after the guneral services this
morning.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Prussia Planning
''PoIice Force" of
100000 Soldiers
Promoters Hope Allies Won't
Object, as Body Is Distinct
From Army Of 2OO,OOO
Authorized by the Treaty

COBLENz, Aug. 3 by Courier TO
Paris) by The Associated Press .-
The Prussian government, according 80
American reports, is planning the or
ganization of a new and separate no
lice force" to consist of from 100000
to 100000 trained soldiers, solely as
force to suppress disorder Ii IS
planned to arm this force with the
latest type of military weapon and to
put the men in garrisons throughout
Germany.
The promoters OF this plan, ii is said.
have expressed the hope that the Al
lies will not object This military po-
lice force is proposed as an organiza-
tion distinct from the army OF 100000
men authorized by the peace treaty, the
existing civil police and the great force
of home guards planned by Gustav
Noske, Minister Of Defence.
Information obtained by American
authorities here is that the Germans
believe the Allies Will permit the or
ganlzatlon Of this new force provided
- - Pub tfiNfi VIC COUilOl OF inc NJ n
ister OF the Interior instead of under
the Minister OF Defence.
The Germans plan to recruit the force
entirely from non-commissioned Off
GERS who have seen service and to re
qulre them to live in barracks. In
cities the number of these extra police
would be about one to each $50 in
habltants, and in the country about
one to each 5000 population.
The Prussian government, il Is said
hopes to induce other states OF the for
mer German Empire to adopt the plan.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
DEATHS

EPSTEIN Richard. the celebrated pianist:
member of the famous Estruco Trio and
we'll known as pedagogue both in Europe
and in this country, August /. Services
THE FUNERAL CHURCH Campbell
Ruilding). Broadway at Goth St. on Mon
day. August d. at p. m.
GAGE-Lillan j. Gage. wife Of j. Prescott
Gage. Funeral services at st. Andrews
Chapel, Morris St, Yonkers, Monday, Au-
gust 4 2 80 p.
Levy, mother of Bertha Norway. Helen
Greenbaum. Minnie Schwartz. Moses and
Nathan Funeral Monday, August 4. 2
p. m, 220 East 11ith st. Members Sarah
Lodge 3, /. Q. f. S. of l.; Paestina Lodge
SO. l. o. Z. S. of L.; Asariah Lodge 1874,
o. e. B., invited
MAJOR-On August l, at his residence, 142
Christopher st, George Major, age "a
wears months. Funeral Monday, August
4, / p m. =
Masterson. Funeral from Lexington av
and 65th ST.. Tuesday. August b. Solemn
requiem mass at ST. Vincent Ferrar's
Church at 10 q. m. =
O'REILLY-At Tarrytown. N. Y. August
/, 1919, Francis j., son of Philip M and
the late Johanna r. O'Reilly. age q
years. Funeral from ST. Teresa's Church
August 4 at 80 a. m. Interment Sleepy
Hollow Cemetery.
POTTER-At Northport L. l.. Saturday.
10th year. Funeral services at her late
residence Tuesday. August 5. at y. nj.
RIVERS-Mar A.. died suddenly August
9 Funeral service at the home of her
daughter Mrs. Thomas j. Gerehart sos
East 22d St, Brooklyn, Monday evening,
August A. at S o'clock.
SCHACK--Frederck c. c. Setback, on July
81, at Wavery Iowa. in his 92d year.
SEAMAN-At Glen Head. l.. l.. Saturday,
August g 1919, Frank w. Seaman in his
AID year Funeral services Will be held
at his late residence, Glen Head, l.. L., on
Tuesday, August 3, at 8 80 p.
SHAW-At New York City, August 2.
Frank F. Shaw. M. D.. of 4G2 Convent
av, in hts 57th year. Funeral service at
the Chapel of St. Luke's Hospital. Mon
day at II 80 a m. Interment at Grove
land, Mass, at convenience of family. 1t
is particularly requested that no flowers
be sent. Exeter N. II. and Grovsland,
Mass. papers please copy
SUNDERLANDOn August /. 1919. Mary
Emily F. Funeral from her late residence,
81 Lexington av., on August 4. 1919.
thence to St Stephens Church. in East
2Sth st., where /. requiem will be
offered for the rcpose of her soul at IL
a. m Interment Cypress Hills Cemetery.
OWNSEND--On August 2. 1919, Mary
Adelaide, widow of Daniel c. Townsend.
Relatives and friends invited to at
tend the funeral services at the residence
of her son, William II. Townsend. AIS
! . ST.. Flushing, N. x. on 'honday
t. at T. M.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Entente Statesmen Should
Appear Before Tribunal
With Kaiser, He pleads
i'll Letter to King George
Britain Chiefly Blamed
Trade Supremacy Sought,
He Asserts; Germany De-
feated by Food Blockade

COPENHAGEN, Aug. 3.-The former
Prince Henry of Prussia, in a letter
to King George, published to-day by
the Hamburger Nachrichten," says
the truth about the war may be had
from the Allied statesmen, and he sug-
gests that if the former German EN-
peror is placed on trial the statesmen
also appear.
The letter asks King George ain the
name of justice and his own interests"
to desist from demanding the extradi-
tion and trial of the former German
ruler The letter, which is signed
Your humble cousin, Henry" charges
that England plotted Germany's COM
mercial downfall.
If the. Allies want the truth, the
former Prince says. the leading states
men of Great Britain and her allies
should also be brought before the
tribunal as primarily and urgently
suspected of guilt in the world war"
The letter continues: "Germany and
her brave people have been hit severe
ly, but they are not yet dead The
German spirit which now seems dead
still lives and Will one day awake to
full consciousness of the disgrace and
oHdiHS Which nave DecH lullICleU, UI u
will one day demand reckoning."
The letter charges that it was solely
the British government which for
years prepared the world war in order
to eliminate Germany as troublesome
competitor from the worlds markets.
Prince Henry continues:
Let me only remind your majesty
of your meetings with M. Sazonoff
(then Russian Minister of Foreign At
fairs) in September, 1912, at Balmoral,
and the utterances of your majesty on
that occasion, which leave no doubt of
the fate planned for the German war
and merchant navy"
Germany was overcome, Prince Henry
declares, not by the arms of the En-
tente, but by Il "silver bullet" which
lodged in the back of the German peo-
pie. The letter refers to the hunger
blockade, (which failed as little in its
effects upon the German people as did
formerly British measures against the
women and children of the Beers"
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
ENGAGEMENTS
MARRIAGES
DEATHS

BACCHUS-On August |. 1919 John Green
wood. d. D.. rector emeritus of the Church
OF the Incarnation, Brooklyn, beloved hus-
band OF the late Josephine Maria Stock
bridge, father of Josephine Bacchus Trus-
low. Mary Stockbrdpe banker and Stock
bridge Bacchus. and grandfather of John
Bacchus Truslow and Elizabeth Trusow.
Funeral services at the Church of the In
carnation. Gates and Franklin avs. on
Monday at . p. m. Kindly omit flowers
Chestertown (Md) papers please copy. .
BLISS August 2, at her residence, 100 I.yn-
ton Place, White Plains. N. Y. Addie f.
Bliss aged 66 years. Funeral private . 30
p. m, Tuesday. Chester (Penn) papers
please copy. =
BOUCHER - May Elizabeth Stephenson
Boucher. beloved wife of Alfred M.
Boucher, on Friday, Aug. l, 1919, at her
summer residence. Stamford Glen" "
Armenia. Funeral services private In
terment at Armenia. Monday noon.
CUCC4A-Mabel. beloved wife of Charles
Cucca August /. Lying in state at THE
FUNERAL CHURCH Campbell Build
ing}. Broadway and 66th ST. Funeral
notice later.
ENNls-on Saturday morning, August 2.
1919. John Ennis, husband OF the late
Elizabeth Ennis (nee Gallagher) and be-
loved father of Ida E. Irwin. in his Slst
year. Relatives and friends are invited to
attend funeral from iii Dean st. tHotel
Chatelaiae). Brooklyn. on Tuesday morn
ing. August 5. at o'clock; thence to St.
Theresas Church. corner Classon av. and
Sterling Place. Brooklyn. where solemn
requiem mass will be offered for the re-
pose of his soul Interment St Johns
Cemetery. Automobile cortege. =
EPSTElN-On August 9, after lingering
illness, Isaac, beloved husband of Annie
Epstein and father of Fannie Hahn and
Adele Regensburg in the 18th year of his
age. Funeral services will be held at
Union Field Cemetery on Monday morning,
August 4, at II o'clock.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Becker Letters Denied
TO Caillaux Counsel
French Under Secretary De-
clares BolO Evidence in u. S.
Has Not Reached Him

PARIS, Aug. (By The Associated
Press) ).-Replying to petition made
to Premier Clemenceau by counsel for
Joseph Caillaux, former Premier Of
France, who is charged with intrigue
to bring about premature and dis
honorable peace with Germany, that
letters passing between Deputy Attor-
NJ. Jusserand, French Ambassador 20
the United States, be incorporated in
the Caillaux dossier, Edouard lgnace,
Under Secretary for Military Justice
and Pension, declared that all docu-
merts he has received concerning the
case have been handed over 20 the
court
The under secretary adds that the
Becker-J Jusserand correspondence has
not reached him, but that it is open to
the petitioners to apply for its pro-
duction by legal means.
Alfred L. Becker, former State Dep
uty Attorney General, investigated
the activities in this country of Bolo
Pacha. the French traitor, and traced
the channels through which German
money, designed to be used for propa-
ganda in this country and France, had
passed. The letters referred to in the
preceding dispatch are those sent by
Mr.. Becker to M. Jusserand referring
to evidence accumulated during this
investigation.
This evidence included the testimony
of chautfeurs and servants in an apart
ment house at Eighty-sixth street and
Riverside Drive occupied by William
Randolph Hearst. This testimony was
to the effect that Johann Won Bern
storf, the former German Ambassador,
and Polo Pacha had called together at
the Heart apartment.
Former Premier Caillaux is accused
of having had reasonable dealings with
Germany and with having been asso-
ciated, for this purpose, with Bolo
Pacha and other German paid agents.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Lord Lytton Discussed
BY Press for Z. S. Envoy
Newspapers in England Also
Mention Lowther for Earl
Readiness Post

LONDON. Aug. 3.~Lord Lytton is
discussed by the Sunday newspapers as
candidate for the post of British
Ambassador to the United States.
James w. Lowther, Speaker of the
House Of Commons, also is mentioned
again as probable successor of Earl
Reading. Lord Lytton is considered
one OF the ablest of the younger peers.
The Earl of Lytton was born in Simla,
British India, August 9, 1876. He has
held the posts OF Civil Lord of the
Admiralty and additional Parliament
airy Secretary to the Admiralty. He
succeeded to the earldom in 1891. He
has two sons and two daughters. He
IS fond Of shooting, fishing, skating
and skiing.
New-York tribune., 1919-08-04
Funeral Services for Pastor

Funeral services for the Rev. William
Schoenfeld, who died suddenly last
Wednesday at Lake George, were held
yesterday afternoon i'll Emmanuel Lu-
theran Church, Eighty ighth Street
and Lexington Avenue, where he had
been pastor since 1898. The services
wcrc conducted by the Rev. Louis
Heinze, assistant pastor.
Professor W. II. 7. Dow, president
of Concordia College, St. Louis, where
the Rev. Schoefeld studied, and Pro-
fessor X. w. Hentze, president of Con-
cordia College, Bronxvllc, which Dr.
Schoenfeld helped to establish, de-
livered euloGies. The ssevlca was con
Quoted in German. Many pereons were
turned away because they could not
be seated. The family received a tce-
gram of coincidence from General Mel
son A. Miles.
Private burial services will be held
at 2 p. m to day. lrterment will be
msde in Greenwood Cemetery.