davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1919-10-06

The Telegraph Service Of The
Daily Gate City and Constitu-
ton Democrat is received over
our own leased wire.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19
Embroidery Stitches Help
to Decorate Made-Overs

To work: For example, on a scallop,
hold the lower edge of the scallop
toward you, begin at the left-hand
end of 1t, and work toward the right
hand; do not use a knot. but run
thread through center of scallop for
few stitches, and bring the needle
through on the lower edge of the
scallop; let the thread fall naturally
toward the right hand, or hold
down with the left thumb, put the
needle in on the upper edge Of seal
lop and bring through on outer edge
exactly beside first stitch, pull thread
into place and repeat, being careful
that each stitch is perpendicular and
very close to the preceding one. The
stitch may be varied, when used
elsewhere than on scallops or on
very scallops, by alternating one
| long and one short stitch or length
ening and shortening them gradual
| ly in groups, TO form pyramids, tri
angles or battlements. If il is deSir-
/ able to have the work raised slight
| ~, the scallop or other design MAJ
! first be padded by placing a row Of
| running stitches on each outline and
through the center This paddins
| may he done with the same thread
used for the embroidery, or darning
cotton may be used. The latter IS
cheaper and fills in more quickly.
Feather, Briar' or Coral stitch
! These names are given to variations
of the buttonhole or blanket stitch,
worked first on the right Of the line
to be followed, then on the left,
again on the right and so on TO COM
pletion. The variation comes in the
slant OF stitch and the number
placed on one side of the line before
reverting to the opposite side.
The stitch is made toward the
worker! bringing the needle out at
the top OF the line, hold the thread
under the left thumb, stick the nee
die in one-eighth inch or less TO the
right Of the point where thread
came out. and bring needle out about
one-eighth inch or less below and
slanted slightly toward the line Of
design. AS the needle is brought
out over the thread a buttonhole
stitch is formed. Then throw the
thread around 10 the left and make
a similar stitch on the lefthand side
OF the line. Continue in this way.
This may be varied by making two
or more stitches on each side the
line each time before working on
the opposite side.
Herringbone or Catch Stitch
Used for decoration and for pracd-
cal purposes to hold down an unfin-
ished edge, as the unturned edge Of
a hem in flannel or the edges Of a
seam in flannel This stitch is work
cd from left TO right. between two
imaginary horizontal lines. Bring
the needle out at the left-hand end
Of the lower line. take a stitch from
right 10 left on the upper line, suf-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

sleep is only a bad habit after
all" said a young girl. whose time
for social functions, like that OF all
persons who work, is limited. II
was during a discussion with her
about the pleasures Of after-work
hours that brought forth the re-
mark. Indeed. merely a glance al
her figure and her feature would in
dictate beyond a shadow OF a doubt
whether or not she gives her tired
body the rest It needs.
This young lady is tall, too slim
for her height; she is blonde, has
pale cheeks and dull. sunken eyes.
Her manner is pleasing and IL her
drawl did not suggest WEAKNESS and
exhaustion, she would be an alto
gether charming personality.
1T was . O'Clock this morning
when I went to bed" she said, and
then with a drawl smile and wave
of the hand she declared in her cpl
grammatic style, that sleep is only
bad habit. after all"
To give you an idea OF how this
young miss Of % does her work
would be a waste OF time and effort.
Indifference, lack OF ambition. un-
due reserve and tiredness of mind
and body are all good terms Of what
she does or rather does not do,
during business hours
The idea that sleep is a waste OF
time or bad habit" is the remains
OF an old theory that during sleep
ing hours nothing IS done or &C
complished industrial, the individu-
al does not enjoy himself and, there
fore. the hours spent in sleep should
be a grudgingly few
sleep AccOmplishes Marvels.
Time and mind bring wonders TO
the world. and they have proved the
fallacy OF this ancient theory. BY
experiment and comparison IL has
been shown that workers nowadays
produce. far more efficient work in
quality and quantity as a result OF
their shortened hours than they did
years ago where their hours OF labor
were long and exacting.
Shortened hours were introduced
into the work OF industry in order
that workers may have mental re
| taxation in pleasures away from
work, as we'll as heightened periods
Of rest in the form Of sleep. 1t was
partly due 10 science and partly &
! the spirit OF philanthropy that these
| changes were instituted, and TO defy
one Of them is detrimental 10 the
purpose for which il was brought
| into being.
Science has shown that an aver
age Of nine hours Of sleep DAY
produces an individual whose sound
ness Of mind and mechanism makes
it possible for him 70 turn out more
work in less time, and in the mean
while 20 keep his cheerful spirits
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19
Why Nine Hours Sleep Each
Night Makes Work Easier
By DR.. LEONARD KEENE HIRSHBERG,
A. b, NJ A, NJ ID. (Johns Hopkins University

he is happy in industry. and lives
not only 10 do and TO produce. but
also 20 love and enjoy
Sleep accomplishes all these mar
vels. and. moreover. creates beauty
in the physical parts OF the mechan-
ism as well as En- the mental. en- the
form Of vigor. vivacity, charm OF
manners IN the way OF poise. self
confidence and dignity.
During the hours or sleep ths
waste OF the mechanism becomes
repaired According 10 scientific
knowledge most Of tissue repair and
tissue building goes on during sleep
when the bodily mechanism IS az rest
from external exertion. IL is during
these precious hours that the diges-
tive apparatus is most benefited for
the real assumption and incorpora-
ton with the scarlet fluid o. the food
churned i'm the stomach and intes-
tines takes place IL is due 10 this
added supply OF food into the YER
million Auid that tissues are built up
or repaired and made ready FOR the
next days toll 10 produce the ener-
gy essential for further action and
production.
sleep Makes" Beauty.
Tissue is not only built for the
purpose of producing work and en-
ergy. but also for the purpose OF
beauty. If. for example there is
not sufficient number of th' tiny r.
bres. the entire mechanism looks UNI
duly thin, starved. gaunt and alto
gether unbeauuhed. There must be
enough tissue TO round out the con
tours Of the cheeks. eyes and pro-
file. as well as the contour OF the
hips, waist and general physical
form. Only in so far as this is sue
cessfulIy accomplished during sleep
ing hours can you boast OF good
form" healthy looks and expression
and freshness in spirit and color or
complexion.
When these qualities can truth
fully be called yours a feeling OF
ease and poise viii aid in your quest
for a free. happy mind. Maintain
however. the theory that sleep IL
only a bad habit" and emaciation.
saIlowness Of complexion, dizziness OF
eyes. lowness OF spirit and vivacity.
as well as loss Of vigor and energy
viii be your misfortune.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

In her helpful book, Clothing for
Women" Laura 1. Baldt gives much
information to women who wish 10
cut and make certain of their own
garments. One chapter, called Dec
grafton and Embroidery" describes
carefully the various stitches which
may very likely be employed in the
decoration of these garments.
Outline stitch is worked from
left to right along the line to be fol-
lowed. writes Miss Baldt.
Bring the needle out at the left
hand end of line, let the thread drop
below line, take a stitch from right
to left on the line, one-half the
length of stitch to be used, bringing
needle out in the some hole where
thread came out Ian, and take up
next stitch, one-half length beyond,
and bring needle out in same hole
with end of preceding stitch; con-
tinue in this way, making a long
stitch on the right side and a short
one on the wrong side. and allowing
thread TO drop below line each time.
The right and wrong sides of this
SAAl(4A al = NAAG AGNGAEG VI NAAt Al6AlA
and wrong sides OF backstitch used
in plain sewing.
Chain stitch is worked toward
one. Bring the needle up at the
end of the line, let thread hang nat
urally, or hold in place with the
left thumb. put the needle back IN
the same hole it just came through,
/ and bring il out a short distance in
advance, and over the thread, which
| thus is held down in the form OF a
( loop; each stitch is made in the
same way. one end of it coming out
through the preceding stitch. and
! the other end held down by the
next stitch.
Lazy daisy stitch is a very simple
and easy way to work the petals of
/ tiny flowers, as small daisies or for
/ get-me- nots. one lazy daisy stitch
| makes each petal. To work: Bring
the needle up at the inner end OF
I petal near the center Of the flower,
/ hold the thread under the left
/ thumb, put the needle in exactly
beside the hole it just came through
/ and bring il out at the top or outer
point of the petal over the thread.
I thus making one chain stitch, then
/ put needle in again at the top OF
petal, outside the chain stitch so
as 10 make one stitch over the
/ thread thus holding the chain
stitch in place Repeat on each
petal.
Blanket stitch is so called because
used 20 finish the cut edge OF a
\ blanket or other flannel article. 10
pre>ent its raveung: when used in
\ embroidery it is usually erroneous
/ ~ called 'Tbutton-hole stitch"
This stitch is used 10 finish edges
OF linens. when finished with seal
/ lops or scrolls. and 10 follow the
outline of designs in surface work.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19
.REVEL ATTONS Of WIFE

IF Mrs. Underwood would permit
me TO do so. am certain could get
up now"
You must not think OF trying it."
he returned sharply. and with a
note in his voice, almost like au-
thority. which puzzled.
Thank God for Mrs. Underwood"
he went on. She is a woman in a
thousand. 1 am indebted to her for
your life"
1 shrank back among my pillows,
and wished that Lillian would re-
turn 20 the room. 1 began to won
der II Mr. Gordon's brain was not a
slightly turned. Surely. the fact that
he had once known and loved my
mother was no excuse for the ex-
travagant attitude he was taking.
Sc saw the movement, and into
his eyes flashed a look so mournful
so filed with longing that 1 was
thrilled TO the heart. The next mo-
ment he threw himself upon his
knees by the side OF my bed, and
cried out tensely:
"Oh, my darling child, don't
shrink for me. You will kill me.
Don't you see?" Can't you guess
I am your father"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19
A Charming Yet
Durable Dress

1 like to show an expensive gown
Of rose velvet or one of palest gray
with a dash Of silver, or possibly one
OF blue velvet faced with orchid.
Our customers like these elaborate
dresses, and seem at first TO sue
cumb to the charm Of their ex-
quisite color, but somewhere out of
the blue" they find self-control-
that quality which is characteristic
Of the modern woman-and like the
French women who kept up their
spirit by saying: "C'est la guerre, &"
they turn deaf ear TO the pleadings
OF these exquisite colors and order
something durable.
OF course. am tired Of the word
durable" but the spirit Of thrift
has swept over the nation. The
woman Of wealth is keenly alive 10
its calling. Not TO squander money
is her aim.
There's so much misery in the
world" they say, Il couldn't wear
that elaborate gown and think OF
I the orphans in France or of our own
dear boys who need no much. Give
me something durable that I can
wear and still look a solder in the
! face.
"Of course ] want 10 look well.
The French women, through all the
/ horrors of war, have never let go
Of their hold on charm or fascina-
| ton or beauty. which is the due OF
] 4
/ Again, 1 ask you, please give me
something which is becoming. and
which doesn't bespeak extravaganza
in every line and trimming"
! This is the cry Of the American
woman today. It's fine appeal you
must admit Nine. Frances is meet
ing It in her variety of designs for
durable dresses. which are becoming
and feminine in every detail.
One I have in mind is made of
black charmeuse satin devoid of
trimming except for a waist and
peplum of beautiful ecru Chantilly
lace. The soft, creamy sickness of
this lace is especially attractive when
used against a white throat. This
lace IS inserted as a square vest, and
cloth, which gives a charming effect
to the front Of the blouse. so Sc
verely simple otherwise.
A row Of tiny button moulds
covered with black charmeuse be-
gins at the belt and follows a con
tinuous line around the square neck
TO the opposite side of the vest. Sim
liar buttons run along the tight
sleeves Of charmeuse. The lace
falls in a peplum over the skirt
which carries a drapery running
from the left side to a long, fla
panel in the back. A ruffie Of black
Chantilly lace shows below the bot
tom Of the skirt and gives an es
sentiaTy feminine touch TO silken
clad ankles.
The lines OF the gown are ver1
lovely. and sufficiently simple Il
make it becoming to almost any
normal figure. This dress may b
worn under a topcoat in the street
and will look sufficiently dressy fol
the restaurant dinner or for the
theater.
The hat which is worn with this
gown is made of black velvet faced
: with French blue. The ribbon tina
encircles the crown is black on on'
} side and blue on the other. A bead
ed flower in shades OF rose and blu,
, IS laid fatty on the brim.
In choosing a hat which IS intend
ed for "aIl the day through" wea
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

mother had stretched out her hand
from heaven TO sanction the one
thing / most longed to do.
Father 1 gasped. "Oh, my
father, L have wanted you So
He uttered little cry Of Joy. and
then my fathers arms were around
me, my face was close to his, and
for the first time since 1 was baby
of four years 1 knew my fathers
kisses.
keep This Carefully"
A smothered sound. almost like a
groan, startled me, and then the door
slammed shut.
What was that?" I asked. rs
there any one there?"
My father raised his head mo,
there is no one there" he said. "See.
the wind is rising. 1t must have been
that which slammed the door. /
think 1 would better shut the win
dow
He moved over TO the window,
which Lillian had kept partly ajar
for air, and closed it. Then he re-
turned to my bedside.
There is one thing 1 must ask
you to do my child" he said hest
\ tatingiy, land that is 10 keep secret
the fact that instead OF being Rob
ert Gordon, 1 am in reality Charles
Robert Gordon Spencer, and your
I father OF course, your husband
must know and Mrs. Underwood. as
/ her husband is going with me tc
/ South America. But / should ad-
wise very strongly against the knowl-
edge coming into the possession oil
anyone else.
Il cannot explain 10 you now why
I dropped part of my name. or why
exact this promise" ne went on
"but II is imperative that 1 do ask it
and that you heed the request. You
will respect my wishes in this mat
ter. will you not. my daughter"
II was all very stilted. almost
melodramatic. but my father wa.
so much in earnest that 1 readily
gave the promise he asked With g
look of relief he took a package
from his pocket and handed il tC
me.
Keep this carefully" he said. IT
contains all the data which you vii
need in case OF my death. Rumol
says that am very rich man. A:
usual rumor is wrong. but / have
enough so that you will always bt
comfortable. And for fear tina
something might happen 10 you il
my absence l have placed TO YOU
account in the Knickerbocker none,
enough for any emergency. also To-
extra spending money you may wish
The bank book is among these pa.
pers. I trust that you will use il.
shall like 10 feel that you are usinl
il. And now good-by. 1 shall SET
you again"
He kissed me. lingeringly. tender
~. and went out Of the room. lay
looking at the package he had Civ
en- me. wondering If il were all &
dream.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

there are two types to consider.
First. there's the small, rounded
turban of velvet or brightly colored
duvetyne with touches Of flowers or
vivid embroidery. Then there's the
broad velvet shape. The close hat
has the advantage Of being comfort
able in any wind or weather. The
larger hat is more dressy for eve
ming wear.
In choosing a hat il IS best 10 be
governed by the circumstances
under which you intend 10 wear it
most.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19
WOMEN OFFICIALS TO
ADDRESS c. OF c. AT
MONDAY LUNCHEON

Members OF the Chamber OF Com
merce at their MONDAY luncheon
Monday will be addressed by three
women who have attained high po-
sitions with the United states gov
eminent
The speakers are Miss Agnes
Peterson, representing the Women
in Industry Service, department or
labor. Washington; Mrs. Arthur n.
Cox, special inspector for the state
of Indiana. and Miss Anna Davis OF
the Chudren's bureau. Washington
Sec'y Emmons has requested all
members who plan 10 attend the
luncheon 70 make their reservations
before Q O'Clock Monday morning.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

hciently inNadvance Of the first stitch
on the lower line 20 give the desired
slant 10 stitches. then take a stitch
from rigth 10 left on lower line. al
the proper distance TO give the de-
sired slant: proceed in this way for
the remainder Of the work.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-01-19

The value OF the cocoanuts. copra
and cocoanut oil imported I'm 1871
Is about S60.O00OC0, against ap-
proximately s12,0oO,OOO in 1914.
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1919-04-03
Little nerDiws
School of Mines Is Worthy of The Pub Fullest Support
Ell PaSo Wins Praise for Cleanliness of It's Streets
Little interUiews

by FL Pasoans ever came back to this
city and II was said that something
like SL50Q.000 was invested by local
citizens in stock companies to exploit
those wells. II would be a great thing
for the city - we could discover oil
near FL Paso."
Work Of the Salvation Army in
Hawaii is not unlike that in the
states, said Col Mary Stilwell. secre-
tary Of social and rescue work, but &c
IS larger We were the pioneers in
the work there, having begun Is
years ago. and evidently we have met
the need as we have never had any
competition All we have to do there
is TO work and the money pours in.
We have separate homes for boys and
girls They are located in Namoa val
ley and are the prettiest places in
Honolulu There are 70 boys and the
the girls number . and there are
% acres in the grounds that contain
their home Our work there covers
all OF the Hawaiian islands but draws
mainly from Honolulu"
There is a great amount Of broken
glass on the principal streets in the
residential portion Of the city and X
often remains there for many days,
said N. L. Roberts Just how the
glass gets scattered. I don't know.
but the authorities should locate the
offenders and impose sufficient fines
to result in the cessation Of the Of
Tense. Efforts should also be made TO
clean up the glass without delay No
florists pay special taxes and are en-
titled TO protection and consideration
that they do not get"
7 have just organized a local Of
the railway clerks and freight hand
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1919-04-03
2 CHAs. 2. MOREHEAp.

y showed conclusively that q deter
mined opposition TO the power Of the
government was intended I had met
captain Van Vliet on the 21st OF
September returning from salt Lake
City and was informed by him that
although the 4ormons, or rather gov
ernor Young, were determined TO op-
pose an entrance into the city. vet
he was assured that no armed resist
I ance would be attempted II ne went
no further than Fort Bridger and
! Fort supply. I was still further con-
Vlneed OF this by the circumstance
| that train OF more than 100 con-
| tractors wagons had been parked for
nearly three weeks on Hams fork
without defence, and had been IN
molested. although they contained
provisions and supplies which would
have been OF great use 10 the Nor
mons.
Protecting bis Property.
Upon receiving these letters. I pre-
pared for defence. and TO guard the
supplies near Us until the nearest
troops came up 1 replied 10 governor
1oun6s letter, copy Of which I en-
close, and have not had any further
correspondence with him On the
morning OF the 5th OF October the
Aormons burned two trains Of gov
eminent stores on Green river, and
one On the Bid Sandy. and a few
wagons belonging to Mr.. Perry. a
suffer OF the 10th infantry, which
were q few miles behind the latter
train. Colonel Waite OF the 5th
though not anticipating any act OF
the kind. was preparing to send back
a detachment TO these trains from
his camp On Blacks fork. when he
received from some teamsters who
came in the Intelligence Of their be-
ing burned
no doubt now existed that the
most determined hostility might be
expected on the part OF the 1Iormons:
and IL became necessary, from the
extreme lateness Of the season, TO
adopt some immediate course for win
tering the troops and preserving the
supply trains with us. After much
deliberation, and assisted by the
counsel Of the senior Officers I de-
termined to move the troops by the
following route: Up Hams fork,
about IS miles. TO a road called Sub
lette's Cutoff; along that road TO
Bear river and Soda Spring. On ar
irving at Soda Spring two routes
viii be open-one down Bear River
valley, towards the salt Lake. and
one TO the northeast. towards the
Wind River mountains-where good I
valleys for wintering the troops and
stock can be found
Expects Resistance.
THE adoption OF one or these wiz I
be decided by the following circum-
stances II the force under M. com 5
mand is sufficient TO overcome the /
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1919-04-03
Some Chips From the Editorial Block;
Thoughts From the Staff TypeWriterS


fuss over concessions, development
permits and the like down In Mexico
There's a peace conference goinE
on in Paris and the Associated Press
says that we have sold all our guns
and ammunition 70 the allies. Is this
the only country that practices what
Il preaches2
An editor on a small town news
paper who writes weddings. births
deaths and news with equal facility.
had very hurried morning and when
the evening paper was printed found
that he had two stories mixed and the
story Of a wedding said that the bride
was survived by her father. mother
and two sisters
An elderly veteran attending the
last confederate reunion in washing
ton. D. c.. was the guest OF an old
friend The friend asked a young son
to take the old man over the city 10
points OF interest He motored about
town for a short time and then mo-
tOred into Rock Creek park. one Of
the city's most beautiful show places.
After a while the young man asked
the guest how he liked the park and
he replied 1T IS a pretty place, son-
but see enough Of the country At
home
Government ownership OF railroads
has failed even 70 regulate the wage
scale and relieve strikes. not 70 men
ton failures along various other
lines
With road Improvement % the
greatest Importance TO the people Of
Texas and with an appropriation OF
$4,000 900. effective results should
soon be realized throughout the state
The proofreader has been thinking
again Through her Vaccinations the
naked. newborn peoples" became
'ths naked. modern peoples" II the
spring styles OF 1873 had prevailed
when Kipling wrote the line. he might
have made his view OF The White
Mans Burden" suit the ?. r.'H YER
sion
When you hear somebody talking at
great length about nothing. them
selves particularly, you are apt 10
agree that Mt Franklin isn't the
only windy bluff in Texas.
A check book IS ike a pontician-
not much good without backing