davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
GOWNS TO MATCH HANGIhGS
Recent Fad Is to Have Apparel Har-
monize With Draperies and APP
pointments of the Boudoir.

One of the latest fads Of fashion Is
the elaborate room gown designed &c
harmonic with the hangings and ap-
pOintments of the boudoir Itself and
for these rose pink brOcade, French
blue, and metal brocades; are the first
requisitiOn.
A shimmery gold and blue brocade.
light In effect, has been used for one
of these. II Is cut on kimonO lines. but
softly draped at either side Of the
front Dull gold braid. oddly tasseled
In gilt and black beads, makes an edge
finish. and a single large motif Of the
braid marks the fastening ut one side.
The garment Is lined in chiffon Of the
shade of light Parma violets, and the
whole suggests setting done in dainty
French bOudoir style.
In the same spirit Is designed a
brighter model of flame color, with
lace bodice and overjacket of fame,
trimmed with changeable ribbon in a
soft shade Of light blue shot with
fame.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Don't marry in the hope that you
may ride in a golden automobile, or
that you may have ice cream for des-
sert every day. Those are not the
things that count. Don't marry for
the sake of living in hubby-tO-be's
fine five-StOry house, or for the sake
of becoming part owner in his pros
porous business. Watch out for the
string.
Hubby-tO-be may offer you his fine
house as u home before you are mar
ried. but afterward he may expect
you to run il for him as boarding
house. Hubby-tO-be may offer you be-
fore you are married partnership in
his fine. prosperous business. but af-
terward he may expect you to sink
your precious savings into it and lose
them all.
Watch out for the string when you
marry a man for the material good
you may expect to get out OF the
match. If you have your eyes open
beforehand you may learn that mar
rage founded on dollars and cents Is
a delusiOn and a snare. The woman
who marries for the sake of having
the world with a fence around ii gen.
orally loses in the end.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
TO BLEND COLORs
Trick Is in Knowing What Hues
viii Combine.
Some Of the Popular and Harmonizing
Tints That Are In the Limellght
This Season.

The trick Is in knowing what colors
combine. II Is not enough to know
that such and such a color carries
fashions immediate favor, but to know
just what color that color goes with to
conform with the canons OF smart
ness. And really In designing your
new frocks, II you have settled the
matter Of color combination, you have
accomplished quite little. For color
combinations that would he impOssl-
BILE one season have. because they are
stamped with the approval Of some
great dressmaker. or through some as
ISOLATION of the times, taken first place
among combinations that are distinct
~ possible.
At the present time Paris has
stamped with her approval cOmbina-
lions Of metallic hue and almost any
color on the calendar. Thus many Of
the smartest new ribbons show silver
or gold threads running one way. with
the colored threads running the other.
These are used extensively in con-
nection with the new evening frOcks.
Among the interesting ones are gold
and brown, gold with a bright blue
and silver with emerald green. Such
a ribbon would, of course, give the
key to the color scheme of the eve
ming frock on which it was used.
Pale blue geOrgette over yellow IS
a color combination seen in some OF
the newest lingerie. The effect is a
rather vague green. For the young
woman with a complexion fair and
clQar such a color combination would
have great charm in an evening frock.
Henna may be on the wane. but it
has attached some interest to itself
even in a house gown in which it is
combined with mustard yellow. Now.
this doesn't sound very pretty, and per-
haps ii isn't pretty, but interesting 1t
Is, and II carries with it a distinct i'm
preston of smartneSs.
Another color combination that
isn't pretty. but that has the right"
| look to IL. is violet and brick. Some
shades Of brown are used with a vivid
red in some Of the evening hats in
Paris. and. though brown and red
would to most persons seem to be q
very unlovely combination, this car
ries the seal Of fashions approval
| Cream and cerise are interestingly
combined in one of the new fOulards,
and this might suggest color scheme
| for an afternoon frOck of considerable
| distinction.
Particularly pleasing at all times
are combinations of two harmOniZing
shades OF the same color. They are
! never difficu1t as are some of the
more daring contrasting cOmbina-
tons. PaQuin used two shades of rose
in marquisette recently with extreme
| " effective results, and another
French dressmaker used orchid georg-
/ cite embroidered in rose wool.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
COATS FOR GIRLS.
Shepherds Plaid and Wool Fab
RIGS Are to Be Favorites.
Taffetas In Wide Range Of coiors and
shades-Navy and Tan Are Also
Popular.

The most important item In the
spring outfit Of every young girl Is
the separate coat. For several years
washable dresses have been preferred
for girls under six. regardless Of sea
son. Therefore few radical changes
are noted In dresses developed for
these junior citizens. OF course. every
season brings its novelties, changes
in fabric, color and color combina-
ton, but actual style changes are so
few that a cotton wash frOck made
for summer wear may appear with
equally good effect during winter, or
vice versa.
Spring naturally makes the heavy
winter coat an impossible garment.
Therefore the new spring coat Is an
all-important item of the little girls
wardrobe.
During the coming spring taffeta
and shepherds plaid wool fabrics will
unquestionably be the favOrite ma
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

throw-over veil made Of taupe gray
Russian net. with the border embroid-
cred In silver threads. These taupe-
colored wells are extremely becoming
TO bright compilations. They look re-
markedly smart when worn with an
all-black hat or tOque.
For early spring wear Lewis is al
ready showing very large hat-brimmed
hats made enti;'~ly of satin and
trimmed with fiat lows of velvet rib
bon. the latter being placed ut one
side near the back. Everyone says
that the spring season will open ex
ceptionally early this year of 1919. II
is to be hoped that the clerk of the
weather viii remember that we shall
badly need great deal Of brilliant
sunshine. What Is fete without sun
sinner And this year Paris viii enjoy
one long, long fete.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
BEDROOM LINENS AND SCARFS
Blocked Effect Is Done Either in
coIors or White, According to
Accompanying Embroidery.

A curious development in table lin
ems and scarfs for the bedroom is the
blocked effect done either in cOlOrs or
white. according to the character of
the accompanying embroidery and in
various ways. The reason for this is
rather obvious. Now that fine linens
have become so scarce, the pleasure
of looking at pure, unbrOken surface
of soft white linen is not for the
housewife of today. Her linens" will
very likely be cOttOns for some time,
and anything which will break the
cotton expanse and make the finish
less noticeable Is welcome.
Hemstitching by machine or hand
is one way OF making these checkered
cloths. Outline or COUGHING is effec-
tive. too. The blocks vary according
to the size Of the piece, but six inches
is a good working size for most Of
them. Small motifs may then appear
in the corners or in every other block,
or as border around the edge. There
Is much chance for novelty here.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
snrinn BRINGS Cotton sIousea

The seasons dOvetail into each ON
er so closely that style questions ar
iust about settled for winter Ensn
along comes spring 10 unSettle ue"
again, and so on through the !sl-
During the fall and winter days SID
of all kinds hold sway in the de'eiT
ment of all lines and types OF saf
ments. When warm weather W
proaches fine, sheer cotton fabrics a
found very much worth while IN
least two lines-blOuSes and undefgIl
ments. Batiste. Organdie and very ns
wolfe are the three most popular ..
ton waist fabrics. and for the conn.
season handmade laceS, such as I'H
and Irish crochet, will be the pOpuI
trimmings, with hand embroidery -
hemstitching aiding in the deeOraH"
scheme.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
on New H.ndkerchIefs

Black dots on blue form the decora-
tive scheme Of one Of the daintiest Of
the new handkerchiefs. The dots form
an irregular border. widening at the
corners. where they are interpreted
with a few bits Of embroidery done In
white cotton thread. Black handker-
chiefs. that Is handkerchiefs with
black eenters. are often seen They
have borders OF color. usually printed
In blocks. or checks or stripes. These
handkerchiefs are a bit startling. even
10 the eye used to handkerchiefs Of al
eolors Of the rainbow-for. Of course.
black isn't In the rainbow.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

q string tied 10 IL.
Watch out for the
string.
Ii Is foolish for
a young girl to
marry a man for
the things he
promises to give
her after the knot
is tied. So easy
is the business OF
making promises
that all young
SWANS are prone
TO paint the fu-
ture In brilliant
cOlOrs. And the
young girl nibbles
and bites. Then
she regrets it
when 1t is too
late.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

dresses viii not come right into fash
ion until peace Is really signed All
the same we are dancing gaily along
the road with leads to such fdvoi-
tiles
Mirror velvet and panne may be.
said to be the fayorite materials OF
the present moment for afternoon
dresses of elaborate order, and both
these materials are mixed with SILK
iersey-cioth and with bands OF hand
some fur. Nearly all the more ex-
pensive models have rich embroideries
on corsage or side-panel. and these
embroideries are achieved in metallic
threads, glittering beads, brilliant
silks and chenille.
have often seen all these COM
bined on a single length OF embroid-
cry. Worth Is showing some lovely
velvet princess robes which have rich
Iy embroidered, very high collars and
cleverly arranged draperies Of fine silk
Jersey cloth which fall heavy and
straight at the sides of the robe. One
model which specially pleased me was
in mole-gray velvet. with mole-gray
silk Jersey cloth side draperies and
superb embroideries worked In silver
threads and steel beads. There was
high Medici collar, covered with
embroidery and bOrdered with mole
skin and the petal sleeves were very
similar TO those shown In our sketch.
This was one of those elegant, digni-
fed toilettes which are eminently suit
able for women of certain age;" soft,
rich dresses, which look so lovely
when combined with pure white hair,
carefully arranged.
The Gay Floral Toque.
Once again we have floral tOques In
our midst. This is the best of good
news. for the floral toque In early
spring, is n thing of beauty and a
real Joy to eyes wearied by the sight
of gray. rather dreary, days and eve
nings. And then the floral tOque is al
most universally becoming. The lead
ing milliners in Paris are showing
these toques in several different
forms; but personally / award the
palm for beauty to the clOse-fitting
Russian turban shape which 1 have
sketched.
On a young and pretty girl, or
woman, this is an ideal toque for early
spring wear. 1t may be covered with
any small fat flower, but roses, vio-
lets, hyacinths or scarlet japonica
blossoms are perhaps the best OF all.
The model was covered with dull pink
Banksia roses. and very lovely IL was.
Quite plain and simple, but full of rich
and varied color, for the little roses
were shaded-here and there dark.
This style of tOque must be pressed
close down on the head so that the
hair at the back IS almost covered.
No fringe shows on the forehead. hut
cocuettish curlS are allowed to strag-
gle forward over the ears. A tOque
of this kind made entirely of dark
purple viOlers would be lovely; or of
Parma viOlets mixed with dull blue
hyacinths: or again with moss roses
and soft green rOssieaves.
For Correct Combination.
The correct thing TO combine with
such a toQue as this is large square
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
EadeIess Kitchen Gowns.

Kitchen dresses of light welghl
bleached cotton were adopted o'
dainty young housewife who ~
that her colOred wash dresses az
quickly, 'and." she says. ! Nv
looked so well in the kitchen oel~S
All are made by some simple
tern and have a touch Of eolOreu
broidery or crochet on the neek' "
sleeves. and pockets These nc
can be washed and boiled ana ~
no starch. and they look new
they are worn out. and will QUIZ
gingham or percale. The mS
should be shrunk before cutting
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
GOWNS AND HATS
SHOWN IN PARIS
Black charmeuse Dress Is a Type
Every Woman Needs in
Her Wardrobe.
EARLY SPRING FLORAL ToQUE
Headoear That is a Real Joy to Eyes
Wearied by Sight Of Gray
Dreary Days and
Evenings.

This week is sketched a distinct
novelty, which would certainly prove
very useful for afternoon wear. 1t is
a black charmeuse dress which takes
the form of an ultralOng tunic, thrown
over a straight fourreau Of black and
white broche silk. The dress Is ex-
actly the same back and front and 1t
is in reality a throw-on dress, invisibly
attached to the broche fourreau on the
shoulders by pressure buttons.
The dress buttons right down the
back, and down the front from the
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
Match scratcher.

Save the strip Of sandpaper that
comes on the match boxes and tack
on jamb of door with tiny Swede
tacks; or strips Of sandpaper may be
cut five inches long and three-eighths-
inch wide. Place a tack at each end
and one In the middle. This win not
interfere with opening and closing Of
door. and win save steps In running
back to get another match
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Many OF the new organdie and other
sheer frocks are made with hens 50
deep as to meet midway from the
ankles to the waIstline- This makes
the frock set rather better than other
wise. because Of the added weight at
the lower half Of the skirt. and also
renders q skirt made Of transparent
material less transparent.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Little Girls Coat Of Shepherds Plaid.
terials for the development Of little
girls coats. Taffetas appear in a wide
range of colOrs and shades. Navy, of
course, Is good, tan shades are ex-
tremely popular and the light blues
such as French and soldier blue, also
are favOrites.
These little coats are usually made
with a normal waistline or with a
waistline a trifle higher than normal.
There is always a waistline. The
straight coats make their appearance
for older girls and for women.
Shepherds plaid wool fabric makes
an extremely chic little coat and one
that is always serviceable.
The sketch gives a suggestion for a
smart coat for a girl of six or eight
years. The belt may be Of patent
leather in either red or black. the but
tons, of course, being selected to
match the shade of the belt. The coat
Is finished at the neck with a collar
of plaid over which is laid a de
tachable collar of white satin. geOrg.
cite or organdie. Lace collars are
pretty, but they are usually worn on
the taffeta coats. the more tailored
plain collars being preferred for coats
of wool material.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
Heavy Sweaters of silk

Shops are showing heavy SIX wv.
ers for winter wear. They are -
cially desirable for indoor wear
the low supply Of coal makes II y.
sibIe to keep up the normal degr@
heat. These new sweaters have
odd bits Of finishing, such as
deep collars, fringed edges anu
usual cuffs-anything for the SaA'
novelty.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
r,IIor.d slOuses Of SIX.

The strictly man-taiIored shlrt-Oi~ n
cut on the lines Of mems shirs
straight shirt sleeves with n Il
cuffs and adjustable high or low -,
lars Is in great demand for spOrI I'd -,
These are In plain wash silk and -, -
and In fancy eolorfully stripe'
silk.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
This very attractive spring suit 10 Of
check serge and black binding. Il 10
a model that should appeal to many Of
the stylish dressers-
DICTATES OF FASHION

The richer the fabric the less II
should be trimmed.
Draped collars appear on the spring
wrap coats.
Gray astrakhan Is much liked on
suits instead of other furs.
Leopard skin makes a most striking
trimming for beige velvet.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
Meek Fn,lino AGAIN.

Frilling by the yard was the stand
ard neck-and-sleeve finish at one time.
Now II is quite prominent again on
the neckwear counters. being used for
the round-necked. collarless dress or
waist. II comes in white. maize and
other soft tones. With fold Of some
suitable color it Is worn as a fichu-
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

For late winter wear there are some
very attractive little hats Of Jet and
velvet. The Jet sequins are spangled
aH over with velvet. which Is then con-
cocfed into becoming little hat with
a pulled crown and a narrow brim.
some Of these hats are cut with
nitered crown. IKE bishops CO.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
Through the
Looking Glass
BY EVELYN NESBIT

When a man offers you the world
with a fence around II, there may be
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Women school executives OF ~
have organized a state associap'
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Women IN Sweden have been per
mifted 10 take the higher university
degrees since 1882
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

inc at back and front over straight
fourreau Of black and white broche
silk.
point Of the deep V opening, and the
outline is quite original. The ceinture
is made of white skunk and the same
fur borders the high Medici collar
and petal cuffs.
This is the type of dress, writes a
Paris correspondent, that all elegant
women need in their wardrObes. 1t
is sufficiently ornate to wear at a
fashionable wedding. and yet ii might
with perfect propriety be worn at a
restaurant tea, or for ordinary visit
ing. This idea of throwing on a pic
turesque satin dress over a brocaded
or striped princess robe is very pOpu-
lar in Paris just now.
We are in the midst of gaiety of
one kind or another. Your splendid
president has been in our midst and
visits, of a ceremOniOus order, were
the order of the day. Now for such
visits this is the kind of costume that
our smartest women wore. Something
original, dressy without being eccen-
trio and rich withal. The eombina-
ton of black charmeuse and brocaded
silk is immensely popular.
Materials Are Favored.
Worth is using these two materials
with the best effects; so is Nine. Pa
quin and so is Douoet. saw, re-
Gently, in Doucet's showrOoms q
model dress very similar TO that
sketched, which was made Of deep
purple panne over gray and black bro
caded silk, the latter material being
traced over with silver threads. On
the neck and sleeves there were mar
row borders Of sable.
There was a long cape-wrap to &C
company the dress end this was also
made Of purple panne, with an i'm
mense sable collar and lining of sill
yer gray peau de soie-a truly regal
toilette. The Parisiennes fell in love
with Mrs Wilson Everywhere one
heard of her s7ovely smile" and-fol
French women place great faith In q
correct taste in dress-of her eSeel-
lent taste in sartorial matters.
/ heard q well-known leader OF
Partisan society exclaim: Mime. WI
son puts on her hats quite perfectly y
Greater praise than this could not be
given-by a Parisienne. For the pres
idential entertainments many lovely
afternoon and evening dresses wer'
ordered I'm the rue de Ia PAX
Amongst these noticed several lacs
gowns, set in flounces from waist Il
hem and worn with a tight-itting saith
or embroidered tuIle corsage whicl
recalls the outline Of days gone by
Lace dresses are becoming quite |
craze In Paris; black lace. cream lac
and the two combined We are drift
ing toward revival Of fnssy evening
dresses; elaborate gowns trimme'
with lounees and with intricate drap
cries and loops or ribbon. We are II
for q reaction IN dress matters.
For long time back we have bee
satisfied with evening dresses OF e
we're outline, which one could hardl
eaIl evening gowns af all.
Await the Final Peace.
Now We are rapidly blossomlng eu'
As II BY magic the big .:1laisonsr hsv
suddenly produced exquisite and elal
crate evening toiieftes. though the n
E1sIennes insist thar really decc,lei
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15

Now We are rapidly bloss0ming cut
As II BY magic the big .'lfaisonsr have
suddenly produced exquisite and elab-
crate evening toiieftes. though the Pa
risIennes insist thar really deccsIete
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1919-03-15
Enr Correct Combination

The correct thing TO combine with
such a toQue as this is a large square
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09

DN'r''
CHEEsE-The market ruled firm. with
er1fs light and &sWa9d YORK. f"THS "Is
flats. fancy. 3i& @ s2c; fair to good 3Gi. %
3IIa c; Wisconsin whole-milk fancy 3li4 c:
goods & n sac
BuTTER-Demand, was fair for fine
light offerings Medium and low grades
continued dull Quotations.: Creamery,
seconds 81 Gp64c; sweet creamery. choice
prints jobbng at 70 a I4c for fancy and 5Sa
Tic for fair to good
strictly fine eggs. prices Of which ruled
arm Under lght offerngs. We quote quote: Free Free
by current receipts, SIS. go; fair to good
Si7,4Oqls; western, extra frsts. SiO 20:
irsts. slsnlS 80; nearby and western sec,
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09
New York Metal Market

tober. 2i% a2ibei. November. 2iS "a a a5e;
Psssmhsr. siT %22A q; 55ssRussE. 2aaSaHi 81
Spot, 8,o6e. bid October 6.05 q Q .2Oe: No
yenher. y, 10 y Z. .30ci December ana January.
Hast a. Leg;sz spoi. asc bid; octobf5,
~ p' rsssa.S s's N'sfs % Rff'sEs asss., 5s,ss s
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09
REFINED SUGARS
DAIRY PRODUCTS

market ruled firm under scarcity We
N basis Of DC fer fine grlnulated.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09
COTTON IRREGULAR
AS EXCHANGE OPENS.
Realizing Sales on Long Lines
Offset Bullish Character
of Early News

New York, Oct. 9.-There was con =
siderable irrcgularity to the early cot =
ton market today, the disposition to
realize profits on long lines offsetting
the bullish character of the early news.
FIRST prices were 10 points higher to
points lower, Liverpool cables came
slightly below expectations, but there
were further heavy spot sales there.
There was continued realizing and
southern hedge selling later and active
months were 30 to 81 points below last
night S close, with December selling at
SO. SO.
Prospects that cold snap would fol-
low the present rain in the south failed
to check the early selling. but was a
sustaining factor and probably en-
couraged buying on scale down
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09

less per cent for cash for hif6 gram
dlated. Old crop raws are unchanged
at 7.2Sc. There were no sales OF new
crop sugars reported yesterday. The
United States sugar equalization board
made no purchases of raws yesterday.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09
POULTRY

LIVE-The market was quiet ard largely
nominal. The quotation s Fowls as to ulIai-
ity 2Sm 3+c; chickens, as to quality, % a
3Oc; ROSTERS 23424c; ducks. white Pekin
3Oc; do Indian Runner, 2761 20c: pigeons
old, per pair. 3OGe35c: do. young. per pair
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1919-10-09
Refined Sugars Are UNCHANGED

New York, Oct. 0.--The refined
sugar market is unchanged, both as
regards conditions and prices. Local
rehners refrain from accepting new