Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1919-12-21
Odd Dishes Form a Part OF Christmas FeaStS


the same pottage the very smell of
which caused Esau to renounce his
birthright. Tamalias, enchiililadas,
tortillas. all mysterious Mexican
dishes and never successfully made
except in the oven of the Mexican,
which is set in the bricks of the open
fireplace. form part of the feast.
Desserts are not seriously considered
and are usually some light confec-
ton eaten with large cups of thick
Mexican chocolate. Pie or pudding
has no equivalent among the Latins.
though many in the Rio Grande
county make mince meat and serve
it in small dishes to be eaten with
trotil'as. which are combined crack
ers and cakes.
There are solid blocks of French
speaking people yet existing in the
territory which became American
through the Louisiana purchase. New
Orleans still is regarded as the cap
ital OF the culinary art as practiced
in the new world. 1t still is possible
to get dinner in some old restau-
rant in the French quarter not to be
duplicated this side of the Seine
French cooking is an elastic term
applied volubly in every hotel and
cafe of prominence in every American
city. Yet those who know say there
is but little of the genuine sort to be
enjoyed save in French families and
IN Louisiana AS in the Mexican
dishes. French cookery to reach per-
fection demands time and patience as
we'll as skill. and the most astonish-
ing number of ingredients. Ameri-
cans are much given to substitutes.
and of time and patience their stock
is low. A French dinner with what
the gourmand calls the real eupeptic
sauces would cost so much that il
would be like buying the latest make
or airplane. even il the proper kind
of chef could be obtained.
Ihere are many studios in the by
paths Of Washington where the free
artistic spirit fourishes, and in them
II one could be so fortunate as to
receive an invitation, will be served
the real Provencal dinner. that ban
quet dear to the artist as the memory
or his nrst canvas which brought .
price.
me amer Provencal must be served
on bare table garlanded with
laurel, with q cheerful clumn NJ
holly tucked in at intervals and soma
mistletoe. not hung up to distract the
partak ers OF the viands, but a part
OF the decorative scheme. First
comes cream of cheese broth. ALWAYS
IN deep bowls of yellow porcelain,
winch are generally collected from
nearby studios and which have az
ured on many a canvas sl,ed with
!onauhs or cream roses. In the
broth floats stars Of spaghetti and
beside each plate are star-shaped
pieces OF toast. and the emblem of the
shepherds 10 described by the points
OF the garlands on the table. But
cream Of cheese broth as prepared
by the one who was taught in pari.
Is quite q different article from that
commonly 20 called. Then comes
rat brown earthenware dish. covered
and steaming hot. filled with that de-
sire OF all who know French cookery.
bouillabaise. The fish market 10 ex-
hausted to make it. for lobster.
shrimp. crabs. bluehsh and halibut
are all used and mixed with vegetable
essences. boiled during what seems an
eternity. then transferred to a cas-
sarole. spices and toasted crumbs
stirred In and stars Of toast again
served ~ 1t IL passcd around No.
Provencal dinner Is complete with
out amourettes, symbol Of the old
troubadour days. when love was part
of every feast. But love 10 merely
categorical In that the amourettes are
a fluffy. airy nothing Of beef mar
row. minced ham and trunies. Then
comes tho royal dish, goose q II Ar
lensaise. the method which the gour-
mand says 10 the only way to cook
that silly bird. which 10 unkindly
made the emblem of wifely perfec-
tion. What tho artistic cooks are to
do without claret no one can say.
The goose must be young and
plump. 10 soaked in milk and then
steamed in wine. stuffed with chest
nuts. with carrots. with peas and
spiced a. only the French know how.
and than n NnnLAA S,~...