Gilpin observer., 1919-03-20
vIENNESE MERRY
DESPITE DEFEAT
They Know They Were Beaten,
Admit It, and Let It
Go at That.
SMART CAFES ARE CROWDED
People Are Well Dressed, Cheerful.
and Pay Enormous Prices for
Chocolate and Cakes-Future
Left to the Politicians.


Left to the Politicians.
vienna.-Perhaps the most striking
characteristic Of Vienna just now Is
its citizens indifference. To enter tho
crowded, smart, beautifully decorated
cafes and watch the lively, laughing
public there Is to ask: "DO these
people realize that they have lost the
war and an empire, and are reduced
to being citizens Of poverty-stricken
state Of under 100000, with an enor-
nous war debt. bankrupt exchequer.
and an ever-growing army Of unem'
ployed"
II foreigner visited this city's
cafes and restaurants without being
told that he was in a country that
had been engaged in disastrous war
for over four years he would think
its citizens summed themselves in peace
full prosperity. Laughter, careless talk
about the opera. the ballet and
prominent actress private life greet
you from all sides. Not word about
war or politics.
Officers in bright colored uniforms
with much gold lace and with rows of
decorations glittering on their tunics.
are as lively as the civilians, while
the well-gowned women in costly,
fashionable furs and jewelry, leave
nothing to those who enjoyed life hero
before the war. They are every whit
as "chic," as gay and as up-to-date.
The Smartest Cafe.
Strange to relate, Vienna's smart
est, dearest and most sought-after
cafe was opened during the war. The
Cafe Krantz is. the last word in lux
ury and attractiveness. Money has
been lavished on its decorations, and
Its music is supplied by the orchestra
Of the Volks opera, conducted by the
popular violinist and composer, Willy
Kleinberg. Here idlers sip chocolate
made with water at 60 cents a small
cup. eat small cakes Of whitest flour
ct 70 cents each, flirt, chat and listen
to as good music as you can enjoy
anywhere in the world.
Each seat at one of the little round
tables costs IL cents on ordinary days,
but on holidays, such as New Years
eve. you cannot get inside the place
under 60 cents, while the best seats,
which are in the gallery upstairs.
overlooking the high hall, where the
music is. and the main part of the
cafe, cost 81. Every seat Is taken.
every occupant happy, careless and
absorbed merely in pleasure.
The same crowd is to be seen at
Pucher's tea room, opened a year
ago, with brocade hung walls and dis
Greet corners. Here, a cracker costs
so cents and a cupful Of chocolate 80
cents. while q portion Of imitation tea.
without sugar or milk, can be had for
so cents. The crowd here Is as well
dressed, as cheerful and as indiffer-
ent to the Versailles conference as that
in the Cafe Krantz.
The Atlantis. another magnificent
cnfe built during the war. Is on the
ground floor Of hotel. unopened
only because Vienna cannot find fur
niture for 1t. At least 1t was till a
couple OF days ago. when the italian
military commission arrived here,
General Segre In command, and
opened Offices on the first floor. The
Italian flag hangs from the balcony,
over the heads Of the cafe habitues,
but nobody mentions 1t, or the war
and its disasters.
"ls This What We Fought Fort"
Now and again some battered look
ing officer in shabby uniform can be
seen scowling on the thought
less crowd with look that says: "Is
this what we fought for7' But such
are few and far between. The ma.
jority Of the military people take re-
cent events like the civilians. A vien-
nese explained It to me:
"They are SO happy the war is
over"
II matters not what comes next:
the problems Of the future are left
to ~ OCCASIONAL politicians. The war,
Is over, the cafes are attractive, the
orera Is open. These are the things
which matter. No wonder you hear
people say: "There Is no fear of
bolshevism, for people are too careless
to want It."
This attitude Is not the boastfui
one of the Germans, who tell the uni
verse they are not beaten. The Aus
trian knows he Is beaten and says SO.
But SO long as his pocketbook Is stuffed
with paper money he keeps smiling
and goes to the restaurant and cafe
Of his choice to look at the pretty
women and talk about the ballet. Noth-l
ing else IL worth notice.