davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1919-09-28
rs REVIVES THE SPANISH PANIER OF THE 17TTI CENTUR
White Kid Frock and Other Leather
Clothes Attract Much Attention
Directoire Collars Mount to Chin
-Fluted Ruffles Come Back

also makes an enveloping cape of per-
forated white kid trimmed with sable
BY the way. as this house stands for
one of the best types of tailored suit
and caters strongly to the American
trade it is well to know that his coats
drop to the knees over skirts that are
narrow ana of moderate length; they
have every kind of manipulation Of
drapery at the hips to give width, but
this drapery is placed below the actual
waist line for a few inches and this
modification makes the skirt practical.
The coats have fulness at the hips, but
1t is supple and not outstanding. The
sides are longer than the front and
back, as a rule, an irregularity which
exists in nearly all the new French
coats. They also have Directoire col
lars, immense things that envelop the
chin. They are Of fur. or Of the mate
rial, and button in front or at the side.
In truth, there is quite a Beau Brum-
mel air about the mannequin who
The sun., 1919-09-28

low bodice of white chiffon edged with
kid and a sash of the plain kid edged
with gold braid, Bernard is another
Mouse that sponsors the perforated
kid gown.
By the way, there is a chance for a
popular novelty in this sash OF supple
white kid. 1t is not long, merely a
four-inch girdle with the regulation
bow and ends about ten inches long
at the back The gold galloon at the
edge giveS it character.
The shops could line 1t with colored
chiffon or satin and present 1t as an
accessory. 1t would be a commendable
addition to several kinds of one piece
frocks, especially those of dark blue
serge and gabardine or sport frocks of
colored linen. Martial ct Armand
! show another kid gown which they in
siSt is for sports and especially for the
Americans. 1t is of pale pink trimmed
with fur; there is a long tunic and a
short narrow skirt and a girdle. 1t
looks as though 1t might be pale pink
broadcloth. One has to handle 1t to
find out that 1t is leather. The Ameri-
can woman wore brown leather skirts
and coats last winter for genuine
sports, you remember, and she may
not feel as though she would like to
play golf in a suit of pale pink kid
and black fur, but 1t should prove an
admirable fashion for the winter in
Palm Beach. Bernard on the Avenue
de rOpera also features colored and
white kid; he makes an admirable
belted storm coat of pale brown kid
with a high collar that protects the
entire face except the eyes; ii is
lined with a heavy woollen cloth, is
beige colored and fastened with kid
covered buttons.
He also makes a storm coat OF highly
polished black leather, which, should
be called Gloucester" for It is highly
reminiscent of the glistening coats
worn by the fishermen who go to the
Banks from the New England coast.
This coat has a short cape that be-
comes tight hood, fastening in pleats
over each temple.
This idea of making q cape serve as
hood is carried out in aother en-
veloping motor coat of fur and
duvetyn, which is the kind of wrap
one would think any suburbanite
would grasp at for evening wear. He
The sun., 1919-09-28
SAVE THE CoRNCOBS.

G AVE the corncob and assist IN
y lowering the cost of living. You
Immediately ask how can the
lowly corncob be factor In the prices
of foods and how can II reduce the re-
cent high quotations. DR. Frederick
b. La Forge, chemist in the Busrau OF
Chemistry of the Department ot
Agriculture. answers the question by
announcing that he has perfected
means of turning the cob into glue,
releasing for food large quantities OF
starch, -four and deXtrine now EN-
ployed in the manufacture Of glue
The corncob production Of the
United States, one might say Is al,
most limitless. The annual yield OF
corn In this country exceeds 2,5VV',
100000 bushels, and for every bushe'
OF shell corn a bushel of Cobs results
and 100 tons of cobs will yield thirty
tons of glue. But to put IL in another
way, per cent. of the annual yles'
OF corncobs will suffice to produce all
the glue that the United States can
use in a year. Thus the large guam
titles OF food components now con-
sumed in the manufacture Of glue can
be realized. And one more illusua-
ton. Quoting from the report OF d.
La Forge on his new process:
"If all the available corncobs Were
turned to profitable uses there wouu
be enough glucose TO fattcn all ths
cattle raised in the United States OF
a source capable of yielding all inc
alcohol produced"
Also DR.. La Forge announces theie
would be no shortage Of acetic acid as
exists to-day. and a supply of baking
powder sufficient to raise all the DIS
cults ever baked would be avalaDio
in a year.
At present the corncob is thrown
away by the miller or grain dealer %
useless, unless 1t Is turned into pip%
and a special brand of cob is used 10,
that purpose, Cheapness OF corn'op
glue recommends it, The prese"'
glue costs approximately $50 ION
and is obtained by fusing soda anu
sand, forming sodium silicate, more
popularly known as waterglass hu,
the corncob glue can be manufacture
and sold at a profit for IS a ton, allow,
ing SO a ton for the cost and dsliV'iA
-
The sun., 1919-09-28
Silhouette of the Hour Reflects the
Velasquez Fashion Skirts Are Full
as Well as Short With Widest
Dimension Over the Hips

travagance and ceremonious air she
must needs have what is known as the
Throne Walk. Vivacity must be con-
fined to the face, liveliness to the ex-
preston. 1t must be kept from the
gait.
This type of hip dimension is,I Of
course, the most sensational one
launched at the openings. The others
run down the scale all the way from
wide accordion pleats, stiffened by
buckram that stand straight out for
six inches on each side of the waist
line, to immense gQdet folds that are
Incorporated in Russian tunic. The
pleated hip dimension is quite fasci-
mating. 1t can be modified to a prac-
teal size. These pleats are quite stiff.
have their edges turned outward and
are pressed into such fiatness that
they keep their position like an open
fan over each hip. There are other
pleats that are like organ pipes. so
widely rounded that they appear to be
made OF something sitter than cloth.
These are placed down each hip.
Remember that the front and back
of the new skirts are fiat. There is
no fulness there. There is no fuluess
in the bodice. The figure is closely
conf1hed with cloth at hem at waist
some gowns that all one sees is a
straight line between .outspreading
curves.
stinened Organ PIeats.
There is one frock that has these
immense organ pleats as thick as II
they were. made of sheet iron down
each side of a cloth skirt: the jacket
has the pleats front and back and is
fiat and plain at sides, just reversing
the manipulation of the skirt. The
sleeves to this frock are long and bell
shaped, the collar is straight and high
and fastened at the side; 1t is made of
peltry.
One of the best developments of the
fulness at the hips is shown in a tunic
placed over a black velvet skirt. The
material is like silk poplin. exquisitely
soft, and the color is a deeper blue
than cornfiower. Over the surface
goes a rare kind of embroidery done in
dull gold thread. 1t is vague, not ag-
gressive. The back and front are
shaped like broad straight panels not
fitting the figure. The sides are ar
ranged in wide bias folds that are cut
in the material; they do not begin un-
til the point of the hips has been
reached, which makes the tunic possi-
BILE for stout women. The high collar
merely rises about the neck The
black velvet skirt is short and narrow
Over the costume goes black velvet
coat that hides the tunic. which means
that 1t reaches to within six inches of
The sun., 1919-09-28
PennsyIvania Hotel.

With the approach of the Writer
season dancing, which was formerly
held on. the roof garden OF the justly
famous Pennsylvania Hotel, will be
resumed in the grill room. Tea dances
are now taking place In this well
decorated room, for which an admis-
sion cover of 81 Is charged week days
and $1.50 on Saturdays. The grill
room also provides continuous dinner
and supper service. During the even
ing many Of the patrons of the hotel
who have enjoyed themselves on the
wonderful dancing floor Of the Penn
sylvania roof garden can now be seen
here.
The sun., 1919-09-28
t Hotel and Restaurant News

by all those who attend. The service
is a la carte, and with the reasonable
prices and the excellent DANCE floor
folks who visit here for the first time
always leave with the thought In,
mind that they shall come again.
The sun., 1919-09-28

wears the best of the new tailored
suits.
Fluted ruffies have also appeared
not with suits. but with frocks. Blue
serge gowns for young women have
high standing collars Of pleated white
linen which end in pointed ruf1les down
the front. These ruffies do not meet
they show about an inch of skin be.
tween. Often there is a string crava,
of black satin ribbon tied at base Of
collar.
The tailored suits at the best houses
carry a new kind of blouse which ia
made of knitted silk jersey. 1t is esy
ceedingly supple, is In cerise, Jade
green. or lemon yellow. 1t has a high
collar that rolls over at the top and
a fan shaped pleated hem that ex..
tends over the hip. There are other
blouses, cut with a slightly low neck
and elbow sleeves, which are pulled In
tightly below tho waist and are slightly
embroidered on the chest.
The sun., 1919-09-28
Plaza Hotel.

The Plaza Hotel at Fifth avenue and
Central Park announces that 1t has
greatly increased its facilities for ex-
elusive social functions this coming
season. Now that the war has ended
there will no doubt be many social
functions OF all natures and every
effort will be made to take care of the
large number of inquiries for ban
quets. dinner parties, private dances
weddings, coming out parties and all
other functions of an exclusive social
nature. The grand ball room and the
ball room foyer have been redecorated
and enlarged so that those who re-
quire the utmost in the line Of artistic
decorations and unusual accommoda-
tions can be served here. Reservations
are now being made.
The sun., 1919-09-28
Greenwich village Mill.

Downtown the Greenwich Village
Mill at AZ West Third street each
evening attracts many of the visitors
to the city as well as New Yorkers
who wish to visit the most famous
dancing resort in the Greenwich VIII
lage section. Newly opened for the
season, the Greenwich Village Mil
has wonderful dance floor, and the
music which the orchestra plays has
been spoken of in volumes Of praise
The sun., 1919-09-28
McAlpin Hotel.

The McAlpin Hotel is far removed
geographically from South and Cen
trail America. yet each Tuesday even
ing the atmosphere which prevails
there is bound to make pev pie think
they are back in Latin America. Known
throughout the hotel world for Great
ing and adopting the newest conven-
fences and luxuries the McAlpin man
agement Is running each Tuesday
night excellent Latin American sup
per dances, we'll protected from rain or
cold breezes. The dances on the Nc
Apin roof are just ideal and are well
patronized by thoseNwho care to sup
and dance to their hearts content
The sun., 1919-09-28
Hotel Marie Antoinetts.

The Hotel Marie Antoinette, at
Broadway and Fifty-seventh street,
has resumed its table dhote dinner
and will have dancing each evening
from 6:45 until 9:15 P. M. The man
agement, in looking for an orchestra
that will entertain their guests, have
selected the famous orchestra from
Montmartre. The dinners are well
attended and an excellent dance floor
readily satisfies the patronage.
The sun., 1919-09-28

the edge of the skirt. This coat has
pleated paniers arranged at the end of
long underarm seams and the fulness
gives a chance for the pleats of the
blue tunic beneath not to be crushed.
II is a strange coincidence that an
hour after this costume was shown
and one wondered what was it's source,
The sun., 1919-09-28

an exhibition of portraits in Russian
artists studio showed a fascinating
portrait of a man, full length. clothed
IN the Boyard costume that Peter the
Great banished from his court. There
was the same tunic, in yellow. not
blue. and the trousers in dull purple
velvet looked like a narrow skirt as
The sun., 1919-09-28

prices and the excellent DANCE floor
folks who visit here for the first time
always leave with the thought In,
mind that they shall come again.
Hotel Albert.
In the middowntown section OF the
city Hotel Albert, at Eleventh street,
one block east of Fifth avenue, Is
Offering a special week day luncheon
at a most reasonable price. This hotel
is under new management and with
its new appointments is catering to a
selected class Of permanent guests
A new idea has hit New York and
has taken the housewife by storm.
Many times one does not wish to cook
meals, especially when the servant is
out for the evening. and then again
one wearies of continually eating at
restaurants.
The American Cooked Food Service
at 213 West Seventy-ninth street has
been successfully in operation for
some time, and in its spacious sanitary
Eitchens prepares hundreds of delicious
meals to ones special order.
Shortly before meal time the cooked
food is placed in an aluminium con-
tainer and in fast automobiles is de-
livered to homes at the regular meal
time. This service delivers after
theatre suppers, serves large and small
establishments daily and not alone
saves the housewife the trouble OF
preparing her foods but through the
cooperation Of it's skilled chefs re-
duces the cost to a very nominal sum.
Many times when the unexpected
guest arrives the American Cooked
Food Service can deliver within a
very short time very appetizing meal
which will be appreciated by both
hostess and guest alike.
Pabst Harlem, the new dancing
place on 125th street, near Seventh
avenue, has already become Harlems
most popular centre of dancing Mar
Gus Nathan, who directs its operation
as we'll as that of the Terrace Garden
Dance Palace. has arranged special
entertainment features for the patrons
On Wednesday evening Evelyn Hub,
bells Terrace Garden Dancers will
give a special folk dance exhibition at
Pabst, and there wilt be demonstra-
tons Of the latest in modern steps.
The sun., 1919-09-28

they were tucked in the long, slim, red
boots. The high collar that swirled to
the ears was of gold embroidered pur-
pie velvet and the long sleeves had a
mandarin flare at the wrist. Another
odd feature of the coincidence was thar
the mannequin who wore the costume
in the salon was tall, with short yellow
hair. wildly thrown back from her fore
head, and the face had a touch OF the
mystery and slavic quality of the por-
trait So the costume was Russian
after all and not Spanish; 1t had to do
with Peter the Great and not Philip
the Fourth.
The Russian artist who painted the
portrait took the occasion to vituper-
ate Peter the Great in his decision to
Danish the national costume of Russia
from his court and compel his fol-
lowers to wear French costumes and
speak the French language. That
was the beginning of all this trouble"
was the dramatic verbal explosion.
There are really few slim gowns
without fulness on the hips, IL one
would be strictly truthful. for Martial
ct Armand, who show this remark
ably lovely Boyard costume. also
show one of dull reddish duvetyn
which has a slim frock as its founda-
ton and a swinging Venetian cape as
It's accessory.
There is no attempt to put fulness
on the hips Of this gown and 1t is Of
the type that an American woman
would carry of with distinction. When
the mannequin entered she looked as
though she might be a page In an
Italian opera or a youth in a Venetian
masque. The pinkish tone that came
through the duvetyn was mysterious
and attractive.
The slip half fitted the figure, from
it's high rolling collar to its short, very
short, hem. It was fastened in
straight line from this collar to the
hem with jet nail heads and the waist
was loosely girdled with a belt made
of tiny squares of Jet held with gilt
loops. Over this slim foundation was
coat of the same material lined with
heavy pinlkish red chiffon. The back
of the cape was decorated with a
floriated design cut out from dull black
leather, an exceedingly soft leather
that had no polish. 1t was old Italian
WI NJ VI tnO hlilu tudI ElnBtdtlQ ana
Spain once adopted.
Madame Vale OF Martial ct Armand
Is exceedingly proud of these frocks
and she shows the fine workmanship
Of the kid perforations and the soft
quality Of the material with pride and
approval. She has an evening gown
Of white kid which no one can deny
is a startling sensation. use 1t for
shoes when 1t is worn out" suggests
the vendeuse. "The price of leather is
SO high that you can save by buying
this gown and turning 1t TO many
uses when the style has vanished"
A Novelty Suggested.
This white kid frock is really soft
and supple There Is nothing about 1t
that makes the wearer awkward or
ungraceful. 1t will be hard to make
the public believe this, but II the
gown becomes anything OF fashion
I'm America II will be not especially
noticed unless one draws attention to
II from the very reason OF the fine
ness of the material
The perforation done on the kid is
exactly like that of paper sold for
pantry shelves The foundation OF the
| froolx is Of white chiffon with a hem
! Of kid; there is wide apron that
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1919-12-27
To OBSERVE 3OOTH
ANNIVERSARY Of PILGRIMS

NEW YORK, Dec. 1s.-The 3O0th
anniversary Of the Pilgrim Fathers,
tentative plans OF which have just
been announced here, will include
celebrations in England. Holland
and the United States and will con-
tinue from May to December. 1920.
A four-day program in Leyden.
Amsterdam and Rotterdam. whence
the Pilgrims sailed three centuries
ago to the American wilderness
where they might find freedom to
worship God" will start on August
80, when committees from the
United States and England will be
received at the University of Ley
den. Addresses commemorative Of
scholars from the three countries,
including the rector of the univer-
sity, DR.. Rendel Harris of Manches-
ter, Eng, Viscount Bryce and a ia
nous American who has not yet
been designated.
The next day, August 81. the
birthday of the queen of the Meth
erlands, will include, beside q con-
gress in the town hall. a religious
memorial service in the Pieterskirk,
in which the Rev. John Robinson,
who led the separationists from the
Church of England (the Pilgrims)
to Holland in 1909, was buried.
One of the features of the holt
day at Amsterdam on September
/, will be a meeting in the Rijks-
museum, the unwilling of a men,
orial window in the Bagijnekerw
and a reception. The next day
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1919-12-27
ARCH IS
BEING RAzED
IN n. Y.
CITY is AGAIN TAKING ON THE
APPEARANCE OF PEACE
TIME

NEW YORK, Dec. 19.-Tte war
is over for New York. Workmen
are now pulling down the great
white Victory Arch" at Fifth ave-
nue. and Twenty-third street, erected
that Americas victorious legions
returning from France might march
beneath it in triumph The "Wel-
come to our Returning Soldiers"
signs are being removed from The
municipal buildings. Orders have
been given for the removal from the
parks of the many Welfare Huts"
and other temporary edifices erected
by soldier welfare organizations.
The big wooden battleship still
FLOATS" in the center OF Union
Square, her Quaker guns dominating
the reaches of Broadway and Fiji
teenth street but is being used
solely for peace-time recruiting for
the navy. There is no indication
when she will be strapped as obso-
lete.
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1919-12-27

BEGGARS FRAUDS
FAKERS MAKE MONEY THROUGH
CLAIMING INJURIES RE-
CEIVED IN WAR

BERLIN, Dec. 2O.-All the or
CARNATIONS for %alleviating the lot of
the war wounded have Joined with
the ministry of labor to put an end
finally to the begging by the pre-
tended wounded soldiers who clutter
the principal streets of Berlin. On
all sides one sees men whose arms
have been "severad" Thy strapping
them to their bodies), or who feign
to be suffering from shell-shock and
shake pitifully, after learning in a
Berlin school the approved methods
of shaking. Investigation has shown
that these people collect up to SEQ
marks daily from their taking.
The government has been carry
ing on Investigations for weeks in
Berlin, Essen, Hamburg and other
large cities, and has established the
fact that hardly five per cent of the
wounded" soldiers who are begging
are genuine. One Shaker was
trailed to a saloon where he ceased
shaking and drank cognac literally
while he counted up over 800 marks,
his days receipts. Another lone
armed" mar collected 80 marks in
two hours, in Tauentzien street. and
then was seen to slip around a cor
ner and unbind his missing arm
which was belted to his body. In
Hamburg, of IS men arrested only
the war.
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1919-12-27
JIMMY WILDE FINDS YANKS Tough

NEW YORK, Dec. 2O.-Jimmy
Wilde's campaign in America prom
Uses to be anything but a picnic for
Jimmy.
The diminutive flyweight cham
pion, wonderful little fighting ma
chine though he is, has already dis
covered that giving away weight to
..rugged American bantams is not as
lsy as 1t looked when he sized up
Yankees from his own side
the pond.
: James a. into a surprise in his
first appearance in an American
ring when he met Jack Sharkey, of
Milwaukee, recently. Sharkey out
boxed the Britisher and won the
popular decision from the critics at
the ringside. Wilde made a good
showing. He demonstrated beyond
a doubt hat : he is the greatest
fighter of his weight who has Eel
donned the mittens within the mem
cry of the oldest present-day fans.
Had Wilde and Sharkey met in
England it is altogether probable
that owing to the English system of
scoring points. Jimmy would have
received an edge from perhaps a
majority of those who would have
been at the ringside. But Jimmy's
in our back yard now, and, as the
saying goes, when you're in Rome,
ETC."
Pete Herman, the king of the
banties; Joe Lynch and Pal Moore,
both of whom have traded punches
with Wilde in England, and a num-
Der of other willing and aggressive
American bantams are standing
along Wilde's pathway around these
United States. Jimmy will be given
AN opportunity to meet them all if
he fingers with us long enough, and
there's no telling wSat may happen
TO the prestige he built up abroad
as a boxer capable of giving away
from even to ten pounds and beat
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1919-12-27
TOPS ALL OTHER
). NATIONAL LEAGUE PITCHERS

Giants, was the leader In this de-
partment of the pastime, going to
the relief of brother hurlers in 22
games. May, of the Cards, gave 81
bases on balls. while Rudolph, of
Boston, and Woodward, Philadel-
phia-St. Louis, each made IL wild
pitches. &?
Hold Eller, of the Reds, got credit
for a no-hft game on May IL, shut
ting out the Cardinals without a
bingle and winning his game 6 to 0.
Jess Barnes scores the most consecu-
tive victories, running his string to
10 between July 4 and August IL,
while Jacobs, of Philadelphia and
st. Louis lost eight games in uc-
cession.
The records of National League
pitchers for the 1919 season are in
teresting, for their work undoubt-
edly accounted for a somewhat no
ticeable falling off in hitting. a slack
up that kept he number of 800
hitters at a low figure all summer.
With many pitchers using freak
deliveries these days the batter
finds it difficult to climb to the 900
class and remain there consistently.
The National league, however, is in
favor of putting the ban on freak
deliveries, and if the American
league concurs in this move the
batsmen may brighten up their aver
ages next season.
John Heydler's leaguers are not
going to be too harsh with the
pitchers if changes are made, how
ever Those who use the spit ball
now will be permitted to continue
its use though other freak methods
of curving the ball will be tabooed.
Hold Eller, for instance, was a
shine ball pitcher of more than or
binary brilliance during the recent
season. Many other National
league slabbers have perfected de-
liveries known by various names,
but if the legislation in question is
adopted the winning pitchers of the
future will have to depend on speed
and natural curves to fool the hard
hitting batsmen.