South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1919-06-05
BY y. T.. BABCOCK.

VI AAioAC IMAM a 9toA HlAlllollo VI
young Americans in khaki have
been familiar with the feel of a soft
hat. How many ever return TO the
hard-crown derby.
At first thought, this does not ap-
pear 10 be a matter OF any particu-
lar Importance; but il really is
In no item of masculine attire
have there been found. during past
times Of peace, a surer index TO
mans business and social circum-
stances; an easier means of correct
ly allotting him 10 some one of the
great general divisions of industry,
or a truer guide 10 his individual
characteristics. and temperament.
than those furnished by the hat on
his head
1t is not so many years ago that
the hat had a real geographical
significance in these United States.
In its uncompromising rigidity it be-
tokened New England and the mid
die states-cOnspicuou New York.
In its graceful fiexibility and mill
tary curve. it bespoke the some
~ nat AAAAOAEAAA oOuAAl- III lAT IdAiltA
squashy and shapeless pliability. it
heralded the sartorially careless
middle west. In it's flrmer crown
and wide Haunting brim, it pro-
claimed the freedom of the far west.
AS a badge Of personal independ-
ence on the part of a young man,
nothing could be more effective at
SLOUGH hat on Fifth av. or Beacon
st, or the wearing of a derby on
Canal St, New Orleans. or upon the
main street of almost any mid
western metropolis.
With what may be called the un-
ionizing OF Observation-Disclosures came
the triumph of eastern ideals The
stiff crowned hat poked its way
westward and southwark. Its man
ufacturers can be said to. have
scored a sort of Winning of the
Derby" or TO use another figure of
speech. il was in their eyes a clear
case Of the survival of the fittest, 9"
for a stiff hat. as every man knows.
must be Of perfect mt, if it be INT TO
wear.
With this proud progress of. the
derby. came a general stiffening of
sartorial rules in many of the COM
munities II invaded. The grey fan
mel shirt with broad, soft collar,
which had attracted no attention
while under the protecting shelter
of a slouch hat or cloth cap. be-
came disturbingly conspicuous when
topped of by a symetrically mould
ed heal-piece Of shining felt The
latter demanded a degree OF pune
tihousness which found observance
in increasing laundry bills and
larger expenditures for neCkwear.
The influence of the derby even
extended down 20 the very fOunda-
tion of things. necessitating a more
careful polishing OF boot or shoe,
and melting its wearer 10 the Creas-
ing of his trouser legs-just as if
that ever relieved a man from the
stigma OF Disgusting his once beau
tifully silk-clad limbs in ugly wool
EN- or Gotten cylinders,
Gradually after its first fashion
able invasion. the derby hat for or
binary wear. gaining wise use in all
parts OF the country. became.
through its presence or absence a
more or less distinguishing badge
/ between those who toll at desks or
counters. and those whose Hveli-
hood is gained in shop, mill, farm
or other fields of manual labor.
Now. If there were anything about
/ the stin hat that entitled il 10 the
authoritative position il holds. the
7 case would be different But the g
T isn't We lay IL aside with JOY in
. the sprinE, we revel in is absence
during the summer but We meekly
take II out gain in the fall AL
though entirely unsuited 90 the pur-
. pose IL has been accepted as tne
proper kind Of hat FOR the average
man 20 wear during the winter
months. II has nothing whatever
I 10 commend a. II IL were made
with lappets for the ears. and
strings 10 tie under the chin. 4,
might have a reasonable claim up
on our approval but II lacks every
warmth giving quality. and has a
way Of PLAYING truaut at the beck
T OF every wintry blast.
Can YOU imagine those mulu,udes
, OF men who will soon be returning
7 from France Ia the comfortable
headgear 10 which their hate profess
sion has accustomed them. willingly
again DOMINIC the supercilious. yet
I tyranical derby? Is IL not there
/ fore an apt time for a revolt. even
| though a bolshevikism OF headgear