The Pulaskian., 1919-10-10

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 A embarks upon one of the
 small steamers which take the mails to Bangkok The steamer makes for the low mangrove-fringed shore which marks his destination and presently enters the muddy Bangkok river, writes F. A. Thompson in Siam" On either side stretch salt marshes, soon hidden behind the lux uriant vegetation. Here on the oozy banks are fern-like attap and rank tropical growths, half submerged, while rising from the firmer ground be hind are the slender trunks and grace ful fronds of areca and coconut palms.
 Bangkok is twelve miles from the coast in a direct line, but so tortuous is the river that it is fully three hours before we arrive. Here a score of small steamers are anchored in mid stream. Others lie alongside the wharfs together with sailing vessels of all descriptions: merchantmen from Europe, rice boats from up country, and fishing boats from the gulf. Every where we see Chinese toling. Boats ply to and fro between the banks, and every now and then the little vessels are set dancing and plunging i'll the wash of the steam launches which tear by. At length we, too, draw in to wharf and land amidst piles of goods.
 Motley Throng in the Street.
 Behind the wharfs and mills which line the river on it's eastern side, we come upon long street, white and dusty in the dry months, and in the rainy season a lane of mud Here at all seasons a motley crowd of Chinese, Siamese, Malays, Hindus and Mahom- -etans jostle each other while coolies toll along at foot pace with rick shaws in the last stages of dilapida- tion. A crazy gharry, bearing dis tant resemblance to a London growler and drawn by a diminutive pony, bumps over the uneven surface, and on one side of the road electric trans. packed with natives, are screeching along the ill-laid track. None of these methods of locomotion appeals to us, nor do we feel inclined to mingle with
 
 we are lucky we may find near by stable, at which we may hire pair horse gharry, sort of miniature vic toria. We will not look on while the ponies are being put in for it is not we'll to know exactly how much string Is used in the composition of our har- ness. It is certain that the proportion Is large, but if only the reins hold out we must be thankful.
 On either side are rows of one storied wooden houses. The shops on the ground floor are quite open to the street, and we can see Chinese carpen- ters, tailors and bootmakers at work inside, while elsewhere cheap cotton goods and hardware are displayed. Now and then we pass a Chinese joss house with fantastic roof-ridge, and through the open door we see an altar decked with tinsel and peacocks' feathers.
 Official Quarter and Royal Palace.
 Our driver expects us to direct him at every step, so if we say nothing he will keep straight on and we shall pres ently come to the old city wall, white washed now, and much disfigured with telegraph wires, but with picturesque battlements shaped like the leaves of the sacred Bo tree. Within we are at once sensible of great improvement as we bowl over the well-kept surface of broad avenue, planted with plane trees, and bordered by neat rows of brick houses. AS we cross a canal we catch a glimpse of trees reflected in the water, and trim lawns, and beyond them pagodas blazing with pure gold in the sunlight. This is the official quarter. Here, too, is the Royal Palace whose brilliant roofs and iridescent spires are seen over the dazzling whiteness of the outer wall.
 Just outside the city wall is the Golden Mount, bell-shaped mound, faced with brick, but so overgrown by trees that it has the appearance of a natural hillock On the summit is 2 little shrine surmounted by pagoda, and to it leads a flight of steps, wind- 1 ing about a hill. From here we look | down upon forest of palms and plane | trees, through which break the red | roofs of the houses. Everywhere rls- ing above the trees are graceful spires and the manifold roofs of temples.