The Semi-weekly leader., 1919-08-09

Now and then In very fine smock OF
organdie one finds this sort Of trim
ming done with fine lace.
OF all OF the delightful summer
things we have seen none Is more
charming than the slnock Of organdie
of a new sort which has dots Of q
different color scattered thickly over
It's surface. Tiny frills of the plain
organdie trim collar and sleeves and
edge the turned back hem, while mar
row string belts Of the organdle hold
the extra fullneSs In place at the
waist. These offer the greatest degree
Of freshness and crispness-whicha any
summer wash fabric ought to have.
The Long cossaek Blouse.
A variation of the smock is the
Cossack blouse. This is just as apt
to reach to the knees as not. It often
buttons right up TO the chin. or again
it is apt to separate down the front
entirely to show a vest underneath
of richness and beauty. The Cossack
blouse, as the name tells, is borrowed
from Russia. 1t has the same droop-
ing fullness at the waist that one sees
In the Russian peasant garment, ar
ranged over a wide belt of the sarae
material as the whole garment or of
different color and fabric.
The skirt Of this blouse is always
very long, and just as apt to reach to
tha hav1 of tho Clyirf nc not I& &c
most often developed in some hand
some fabrics such as georgette thickly
braided or beaded, or in silken inde-
structible voile or even in heavier
silk or velvet, and naturally is In
tended for elaborate occasions. There
is nothing which offers simpler way
of remodelIing an old garment than
the use of a Cossack blouse.
One can really make a sort Of
elongated shirt and belt it in at the
waist and conform thus strictly to the
type. Or the front can be opened, a
vest added and the sides of the skirt
be left open to show the petticoat Of
the dress beneath. There are endless
ways in which one can vary the de-
sign, therefore it has everything to
recommend it.
Now because there is much talk of
these newer models we must not for
moment think that the regulation
blouse or shirtwaist is out of favor.
Indeed, It is not, and it is repeated in
just as many materials as there are
factories to make them. The kimono
type with its slip-on ease is still much
favored for the dressier blouses of
georgette or chiffon. Many have a
rather tight foundation over which is
hung panel Of contrasting color back
and front. This panel, while short,
is left to hang free over the skirt and
is smart in appearance. The sleeves
of this blouse are of the same color
and material as the body. One often
finds this type of waist enveloped in
combination Of organdie and linen
or pique or heavy lawn. The effect is
pleasing and unusual, too.
Waist Of Tailored Type.
As to the more tailored type of waist
for travelling or business there are
several models which bid for favor.
One of these is the strictly tailored
design following the exact lines Of o
mans shirt and is much affected for
sport wear. A long time ago shirts of
this sort were made of brilliant
striped percale and these are again In
favor-bright red and white stripes
vying with those of the most vivid
blue or green or yellow or black for
first place.
These, of course, are strictly tailored
and have the appearance of belonging