Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1919-08-17
AMERICAN BUYERS SHOW
INDEPENDENCE IN PARIS
Ridicule Radically Short Skirts
Displayed by French Fashion
Creators.
FORCE COMPROMISE In LENGTH
Brown Is Prevailing Color and Is
Shown In Scores of Shadcs-After.
noon Coat Costumes Follow Dick
Turpin Lines.
Ipy Associated Press. I

I PARlS. August l6.-Paris' first real
! display OF styles since the war began
Is being attended by about 800 Amer-
! can buyers. who, however. are showing
themselves TO be more independent OF
the dictates of French dressmakers
than ever before.
Brown. according to the now models
Is again in marked favor Soft materials
| are used generally and iounccs, pam
niers and the design OF the new models
tend toward the strictly feminine ap-
pearance There is not the slightest
| suggestion OF the masculine, tailor
made effect of the past.
PariS is clinging to skirts hanging
seven to eight inches from the ground.
| American buyers. the dressmakers say.
| are ridiculing the shortness of the gowns
although frankly admitting American
! skirts have been too long. 1t Ia said
| to be likely American women will ba
/ offered a compromise In lengths. One
! today that mo we'll formed women
! looks we'll in a really long skirt and IL
can not be graceful" but he laughed
| at dressmaker's suggestion that
! americans want long skirts because
American women do not have pretty
| ankles.
Extremely short Skirts Ridtculed.
american women have the prettiess
buyer replied. and they also are the
best shod. but they realize that the
extremely short skirts are ridiculed
and they believe in moderation"
their own styles to great extent dur
ing the war they apparently are finding
| display rooms. although viewing the
| things from newly independent point
| OF view.
Passport difficulties. 1t was said. kent
! the number Of American buyers from
being much larger.
The buyers have been busy all this
week viewing the new modela and they
will continue to attend displays next
Apx w n m
firms will show their winter styles.
Brown seems to be the prevailing
eoior the buyers say and IS Ssh; shown In
Gotta and burnt biscuit. There also
are shown soft shades OF gray. ravon,
blue. tete de negre and moles.
Preserve Figures Soft Contour.
Scores OF the beautiful models who
are displaying gowns in the drawing
rooms OF the celebrated dressmakers
do not wear corsets and make every
effort to- preserve the soft contour of
The styles generally show slight
fullness on the hips in the form of
soft panniers. with pleats and accor-
dion plaits. Flounces are applied in
such a way as to preserve the outline
of the figure and the straight hem OF
Collars are high in many cases and
IL cut open are adjusted so they may
be b IT. close to the the, threat
texture form tho trimmings for after
noon frocks. the majority OF which
coats are trimmed with such furs as
moufion, mole. monkey. kolinsky,
muSkrat and skunk.
Materials Are Soft
All materials are soft and where
hounces are introduced they are set
on Innings Of chiffon to insure supple
lines. Velveteen.. soft serge. velour de
laine, chiffon and plush are used with
great effectiveness in gowns and cos
tunes.
just below the hips and follow Dick
Turpin lines, by means Of Girdle or
gauging. Skirts are narrower at the
feet. giving a peg top suggestion. Fur
American buyers say they are hav-
ing almost battle with Partisan
dressmakers over the backless evening
gowns offered. which the Americans
lace, to the ama2ement Of the French
designers, who protest that women
should be allowed to display their
Soft net. tulle and lace are used
extensively over charmeuse and chiffon
for evening gowns and trimmings Of
gold threads, paillettes, Jet. silver It's
sue, chenille and plush are much used.
Represents Soft Fur.
The plush in these trimmings is
worked up TO represent soft fur. Black
and gold, raven blue, mole and CHINA
mon are tho prevailing tones for even
ing gowns. but delicate pompadour
blues and pinks. with silk panniers.
are shown often for young girls. Many
gowns Of gold tissue are displayed.
l Hats for fall and winter are both
frame the face. Velvet is the most
popuar fabric for hats. and trimmings
will be of ostrich feathers. ospreys
and monkey fur.