The Birmingham age-herald., 1919-12-14

cred umbrellas. A black umbrella IS now almost as scarce as a colored one used tp be in fashionable London, and even the men have greens and browns to go with their heavy top coats which are dis tinctly coiored, too.
 Gloves are mostly of heavy leather.
 stitched with white or black for the street and tho black, gray and green patent leather bags lined with brilliant
 contra sting colors seem to have re- mained as much in favor as they were
 in early autumn.
 Jersey cloth. both silk and wool, have
 returned to the shops in great quap-
 tity and at a slightly reduced price ~ they are no longer extremely chic, but
 their graceful hanging folds are far to becoming to be wholly abandoned by the
 women who have the courage to stick
 to thing even when it is popular.
 The French fashion experts say that the perfectly straight hanging and
 shapeless frock has gone, but it only
 nedes half an eye to see that in all twe
 models of all the collections taud there is
 a>wealth of them such as has not been
 seen here for a long time and which is
 replenishec every day by aene-post frohn
 Paris) the straight ciinging wastiess
 dress is the foundation upon which every
 variation is built.
 In one collector in particular this foun-
 dattcn is of black satin or very dark
 blue. and over it is thrown a Cossack
 coat, perhaps of this French serge with
 kinora sleeves and wide skirts emoroiT-
 cred over every inch of it's surface WI
 gorgeous needlework. scores of fantastic stitches done in silk and wool, gold and
 silver thread. a loop of beads now and then and topped off around the loose rolled-over neck opening by rough
 throng of cowhide threaded in and out of the slit cloth and tied in slip knot close around the throat. In this Russian type of dress the sleeves are always Wlde at the wrist, turned back with some bril- liant bit of color, royal blue, magneta, bright green or clear red, and the pretty little old fashion is often revived Of in-
 sscting a soft lace or net puffed inner
 sleeve held close around the wrists wssh elastic.
 Serge and duvetyn dresses of dark CO., ors are trimmed with the most cu-
 rious and fragile materials A
 dress which was much admired was of fine black cloth hung over a tight under
 dress of ivory satin. The cloth was cut
 in the directoire style with long panels somewhat punched over the hips. These panels were covered with rows and rows
 of finely pleated white net flounces from
 waist to ankle and the outline. of course, was of extreme fluffiness and distinct pannier effect.
 Some house dresses are made with slightly boned hip draperies, but it seems to be generally conceded that this e$- treme fashion is only suitable for house
 wear, and as most women nowadays in sist upon wearing anything they wish anywhere they go, the stiffened banners
 are not likely to have much vogue.
 The favorite dresses are those which
 have punches of the softest possible stulf
 or tu1le which can be smoothed down
 under a street coat or fur wrap. One of the characteristic sights of ballroom Lon don is the general preening and fluffing
 out of their tulle bows and floating
 scarves of chiffon by the dancers be-
 tween the numbers.
 It is astonishing how taffeta has rushed
 back into the extreme of fashion. lte IS
 being shown in the loveliest colors. em-
 bossed, embroidered, stencilled and
 striped. and the dancing frocks made of
 if are the last word in smartness One lovely frock for young girl was
 made of palest blue chiffon taffeta, which apepared to be merely two straight pieces fastened together down the sides under the arms and then shirred to fit the figure and leaving a broad sort of dropping petal of silk above the high waist line to make apol- d O~ the figure was swathed by three shades of palest blue tulie with modesty or flesh pink bound round straight under the arms Narrow silver ribbons were tied over the shoulders and silver shoes with cross ribbons and silver stockings completed the costume. One side of this frock was caught up at the top with a pale pink bud embroidered into the silk and over the other hip was an enor- nous bow of tulle which stood straight out from the girlish form, and would have looked absuredly disproportionate had it not bene so etheral.
 The best French dressmakers are putting the most exquisite embroidery in jewels and pale silks on to evening dresses, and this is one reason why taf- feta is so often chosen. Nothing shows off fine embroidery so we'll, and as Madame Lanvin said wisely, By o'clock in the morning the only dresses that remain beautiful in the ballroom are those of taffeta; the others are just bedraggled wisps." It is no longer ques- tion of finding frock that will last cVe
 several dances, but something that will last through one.
 evening frocks and some of the most beautiful real old lace flounces are com ing to light for this purpose The de- signs of the last are often outlined by silver threads by skilled workers who do not damage the precious fabric, and one of the dressmakers delights in fastening
 an occasional patch of black velvet here and there to accentuate the filmy beauty Sleeves without so much as a sugges- tion of a bodice are being seen on some evening frocks They extend almost to the elbow and are fastened with under arm straps on the high swathed belt The effect is startling, but as the materials are cobwebby they really serve only to soften outlines.
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