The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-06-15
By MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON

w THAT did We wear before seors-
M cite crepe was invented7 Ex-
pertinent a. We win with
every other material, we como back to
this with Joy and comfort, recognizing
the service and beauty few other fab
rios offer.
OF more than usual loneliness are
the georgette frocks Just now being
displayed for more or less elaborate
occasions. While many seem TO have
tired somewhat OF the heavily beaded
dresses 30 long esteemed. others seek
them out assiduously. seeming to pre-
fer the chemise type with its beading
TO all other gowns Of thin material.
Now that the blue dyes are Of such
uncertain quality, and few Of the man
ufacturers win sell them with q guar
sntee of their lasting attributes the
dark blues are harder to find, and
therefore We notice many variations Of
the blue shades which have not been
often seen. For instance. the exquisite
horizon blue Of the French uniforms
developed In georgette makes ideai
dresses for country club wear.
One Just from France has an apron
effect across the front made by placing
row after row OF blond footing one
above the other from the hem of the
skirt almost to the waist. This skirt.
by the way, DEF It's somewhat from
the straight up and down effect of the
majority and seems to be cut after the
circular fashion OF several seasons ago.
The rows OF the footing which form
the apron lines on the front end at the
sides Of the skirt just as an apron
would do. The extra fulness Of the
skirt is gathered at the back, where q
handsome sash OF blue satin Of the ex-
act shade of the georgetts Ia tied in q
large bow with long loops and ends
The waist has a plastron In front
bordered at each side with q bit Of the
narrow footing. The collar falls away
from the throat at the 'front.' in a be-
coming depth and IL q shallow bit OF
the blue bordered with the footing al
the back Of the neck.
The sleeves are longer than the
French, which persistently reveal the
elbow at just the most awkward
length. The footing also trims these
in a straight around band at the cufl
over the elbow.
Footing Used Extensively.
son. There are many varieties. The
finest Is called French blond, and has a
narrow edge like French scanning
braid as a finish The texture Of this
is extremely fine. Like the threads In
real lace. All footing IL narrow, sci.
dom over two inches wide. The point
d'esprit. the plain white or the black
is introduced on every part Of the
frock. Some OF the prettiest collars
one can find are made Of bands Of
footing gathered into q pun and placed
between rows OF fine Valencienne,
lace. But to return to our georgettes
] have been describing repeats the
skirt except for the bands Of footing
The waist is Of the plainest shirtwais'
type, relieved by bands Of the fash.
ionable Margot lace placed in perpen'
dicular manner 80 as TO form an entir,
Jacket effect. the ends of which appear
below the wide sash Of blue satin.
The printed georgettes are greatly
In demand. A lovely Dresden flower
design with a white background ant
the little blossoms Of blue and pink
thiclly scattered all over its surface
has wee ruffies Of white organdy at in.
tervals across tho front in the popular
apron effect noticed upon almost every
other gown.
These tiny RULES are scarcely hal
an inch wide, but because they arr
fiuted and so stiff they stand ou-
effectively and make q delightful trim
ming. The drapery Of this skirt Il
graceful In the extreme, hardly posi-
BILE to describe. however. except to "a,
that It falls In long loops from undeI
the sash Of rose pink satin.
The bodice has . fold Of the foweret
georgette drapsd across the front In Z
monks collar fashion. seemingly on,
Of the most popular ways Of finishing
this sort Of frock at the neck. Tht
organdy friils border this too. and the
short sleeves are likewise edged with
the frills.
The blue and white printed georg.
cites are among the most successful
gowns Of the summer. They are mads
in almost every fashion. with straight
slips Of dark blue satin or silk under.
meath as a foundation, while ths
printed fabric II draped In straight