davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

the war has produced a profound
transformation in peoples ideas about
lie. People look NJ the world and Its
doines from shifted angles. Every In
d.yidIal strives - be IN It md 10 help
rem"li the new conceptions OF society
"a they oLt 20 be after the war to steer
the saip of reform clear from the borders
Of revolution. China 5 walls have Cal.en.
Sic is 10 longer isolated from the rest
of the weird and is people = eyes have a
broader vista than they have mad here
t"torc.
! "'.lc West had knocked at the door OF
tho old Eastern stronghold. The Old
regime was replaced by new one. A
Western one, 4 rrfUh IL. The o.d - As
Eou please institutions and Industries
, had 10 make place for new ones, modern
! ones, Tho East WAS merged with tho
! Wcst"
Thus spoke James W. Tong. fon o:
/ Tong A-Wei. Ch!pH's greatest tea
/ trader, WHO has been the first man TO
Introduce machinery IN China for tho
/ planting. harvesting aud packing Of tea
! Tho Tong A-Wei plantations In China
stretch over =. 600 acres and employ more
! than 5000 Ineu yearly. II IL the only
! Ch.ucsu con 'crn that has established di-
rect trade with Europe and America.
! After tic war is won and the world
at Large begins TO feel the pinch Of
raw material OF al sorts. thlna's re
I sources viii have to be tapped. MI.
+ Tong went on. ''rhc iron ore Of tho
N!aIckron mIue alouc Is said to have
more than l2Q.o0o.O00 tons available
and tho cost o: mining and t-ausporta-
ton IS lower than I'm any part % the
world. Even now. while they are not
worked 10 thelr utmost, the Ten'hihH
, furnaces deliver between ESQ and SOD
tons "A Glv 90 the Japanese Government
steel works and are there used WIN ine
japanese pix iron ana other mat, rails
for steel making.
"1he prnCh uu coal folds rear the
4 Mukdcn-Nnturg Railway. extend over
q400 acres The thickness OF tho coal
seam is from 500 to $50 feet. When
exploited through modern Ta'NiLery
those coal pits VII give enough Goa
to suup'y al the necessities az emma
or an IN lus'rlal China working NJ run
blast her hundreds % milEons Of % oN'6
rrgf'ah,y busy 20 mak" themselves And
tie rest oe the worH hNrpy.
at Is n wei. known fact that TIE chi
nese have a un,Gral aptitude >or me.
I,n,,l,s. trry aye remarkably Ingenious
and yot life hay lrcu gong so slowly II
chin. that .hr mechanical !Is'i"rt wa
seldom ut.' I6ed. 'unl has produces
: great lrvu.u r"s and great builders The
= Grand tl"ul and 'he Great Wall 4"
!, CLi.A alone are ,IH,' eut proof o! ;hsi
Icng.u,crug ability Ilr tragedy Of &
al Is lhat some I'm" .u the past al tn
was allowed t" freeze, 20 s'aEnnio-
'Tnc Boxer uprising aad the WAY wit
. the Iap3u"se brought tho whole I"
Chua .u contact VITA the West, wiz
The outer world. Il was thu best tina
could NAsr happened TO China. !
, awan,uca tt,ua tp LIE, to Industry
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
HATS FOR SOUTHERN
z /ANKEE DOODLE, who stuck
a feather in his cap and called
\ IL ..rnncn rnni" fhcrehY creat-

YANKEE DOODLE, who stuck
a feather in his cap and called
- II "macaroni," thereby Great
Ing a slang word for a gayly dressed
man which has gone over two CONT
nents. could not have felt prouder
than the French king who put
piece Of straw over his head to keep
away the rain. and thus invented hats.
Both the feather and the straw were
trivial incidents In the life OF each Of
these characters (for the satire on
Yankee Doodle was rhymed around
mani. but they were the foundation
stones OF millinery.
Women have always pilfered from
men their tricks OF apparel. They are
snug little thieves, women, when II
comes to petty differing from those
who consider themselves superior bo-
fngs. After all, II is a form OF CO.
Qustry and women discovered centuries
ago that nothing 50 pleased n man rs
to do what no did. say what he said.
and hold on to his hand socially.
financially. politically and mentally.
A woman might hate another woman
for stealing her fashions. but a man
would only look with more pride:ul
alteration upon a woman who fash
Toned her clothes after his.
Nothing so delighted the French
kings as the fact that their women did
what they did in clothes. They gave
them their magnificent brocaded coats
with the full skirts. the knee length
waistcoats. the precious lace ruffics
and the silver and diamond buttons as
q guide to their apparel. They per-
United them TO borrow their coiffeurs
in order to have their hair pcrfumed.
powdered and curled. They saw them
selves reflected. as in mirrors, by tho
groups of women surrounding them.
Sad for Such Kings Now.
An, me. What sad world it would
be for such a King to-day! Shorn Of
his apparel, his hair closely cropped
and unpowdered, his legs covered with
drab and austere cloth. his lace ruff
hes obliterated. he would feel him sci:
In the humil!ating garb Of a convict;
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

that our own negroes of the old South
will have their headgear copied by the
French. who are looking everywhere
for ornate and colorful turhans.
A half dozen years ago Nine. Paul
Poiret entered the restaurant OF a
smart hotel with her slim. dark head
wrapped in an immense turban OF
white satin ornamented with string
Of coiored silk from which hung a pen
dant pearl in front, and on her feet
were high white leather Russian boots,
fat heeled and round toed. She caused
a sensation.
These turbans are modified now.
They arc pushed forward by the mil
liners for the day hours, and they run
the gaInut, from the demure affair for
the morning to the brilliant one OF
brocade for the afternoon.
There is loud clafnor for brocade
in al departments OF dress. and the
milliners are eagerly snatchlng up the
crumbs that fall from the rich dress
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

There Is no attempt TO introduce
the soft brocades. Both for gowns and
hats. the med.aval, metallic kind is
considered the most desirable. Since
peace We have flashed and s!ittered in
cay colors and metals and no woman
wants a demure gown.
Every woman may permit herself
the privilege OF a brilliant hat even
If she keeps TO demure clothes FOR the
street and It is in this psychological
fact that the milliners reap a harvest
The overseas cap which Haunted itself
so brilliantly during the autumn has
been superseded by other kinds Of
turbans. although It must he admitted
that the ohlong shape OF the overseas
cap caused n slight revolution in mil
l!nery.
There are round turbans, but they
are not considered as definitely
modern as the oblong hat. no matter
! from what period Of history It is taken
, 1t may be Victorian, Mesopotamian or
Arabian. but it Is oblong and It tits
far over the eyes and sometimes up
ward at the back. Many call II the
submarine hat but the naIne Is not
! afrcctionately spoken by Americans
| We prefer the word "oblong."
It makes for the gayety Of a crowd
this bobbing up and down OF hats from
Babylon TO tho French trenches. II
keeps women from looking as though
they were cut out by machinery. Tit
Charlotte Corday cap bumps UP against
a satin turban from India a Victorian
mixture OF velvet and ostrich feather,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
Tendency More Strongly Expressed
in Hats Than in Frocks

WAS even moro marked. and quito by
miracle n crop Of new frocks OF bright
ColOrs came into existence.
For the women who do not take
their clothes seriously or who cannot
afford to replenlsh their wardrobes IN
mid season. the change did not come
so soon. With them the craving for
color must he expressed merely in a
few bright accessories now. and plans
for the colorful spring wardrobe.
Bright colored lingerie was never so
popular. The woman who feels con-
WINGED that only pure white linen or
muslin is appropriate for under things
and that all else is a mark OF vulgar
taste must have her sensibilitles
shocked frequently these days, for
the shops are full of lingerie In the
brightest of hues and, be II known
women OF unimpeachable taste are
buying such things.
One OF the most extreme examples
Of the new colored lingerie is TO bt
found in the combination OF brlgh
orange with American Beauty. Perhap;
It does not seem logical way TO ex.
press ones Joy In the coming peace tC
wear lingerie OF this rather clashinl
combination, but these orange an(
American Deauty under things are
looked upon as being the direct resul
of the coming OF peace.
Stripes and PIaids in Sports Wear
In the realm Of sweaters the new
craze for bright colors Is reflected II
the vogue for bright plaid trimming!
first observed Few weeks ago a
some OF the winter resorts Hnd sure {,
he taken up for spring sport wear
This plaid is formed ny knitting {
striped border OF gay worsteds aloni
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

and velvet, OF beige colorcd sabard,ne
and black tafIeta, are perforated along
their edges IN set designs.
1t il too late to talk OF the Aisatian
bow. for II was obvious that the mil
liners would revive it but n certain
WON Il OF distinction started a fashion
for i nat the mi.lincrs quickly looked
upon with envy. She came to lunch
con IN a restaurant wearing the gen.
uine AlSatiau bow, black and immense.
placed across the middle OF her head.
with a mere apology Of a little cloth
cap in front OF It. II stood upward
and outward, and her hair was cooled
high behind t. Tits was the real
thing. and her daring made her the
target of all eyes.
1t may he that the Alsat!an bow In
this form will be introduced for the
evening. Let us hope that II Will
never appear at the theatre. At the
present rate OF prices and the scarcity
! Of seats, tho addition of a hundred or
! SO AlSatian bows III tho audience
would be the straw on the cainel's
/ back.
! Charlotte Corday Cap In Vogue.
The Charlotte Corday cap. minus its
bow. has been introduced for the
| South and is taken up by the North
| 1t il made OF brilliant, dark tulle
always double. but entirely transpa
ent. The best one is In copper tulle. IT.
high crown trimmed nj the base with
d twist O. tulle and one ~ those rocco
red roses with gold outer petals ant
leaves which have been brought intt
fashion by a we'll known designer o.
individual evening gowns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

and he would look at women. these
present birds Of paradise. hickering
through the sunshine of their activl-
ties seemingly regardless of man and
his Importance in the world because Of
their own importance and their duties
~ citizens. with terror touched with
horror.
To-day III" man s. the drudge Of the
world; the clicking machinery that
works necessarily and throws out its
surplus product to women for their
pearls and limousines. their peltries
and brocades. Edith Wharton says
that the gift of all these glories to
women by men Is the price Of their
peace.
The king who put pieco OF straw
over his head may have introduced
hats, but he did not introduce head
gear. Gen. Allenby's colossal work In
Palestine has revived primitive head
gear, which consists OF pieces OF cloth
wrapped about the head. 1t may be
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

cuffs, collar and bottom Of the
sweater and then running in with a
worstea needle the cross lines of the
plaid in still other gay colors. Thus
a gray sweater will have a plaid trim
ming OF artillery red. blue and green.
crossed with stitches Of canary and
purple. Sometimes the plaid is Of less
vivid hue and Is worked out after the
manner of one OF the Scotch clan
pIaids.
SCarfs and oelted shnwls that have
supplanted furs In tho wardrohes OF
many women arc also trimmed with
say plaid or striped borders. Usually
the body Of the scarf is OF some more
subdued shade, gray, buff. blue. brown
or dark green. and the border Is Of the
most vivid colors by the way, these
beltod beach shawls are usually worn
row with an extremely narrow belt
instead Of the wide leather belt that
was sometimes combined with them
earlier in the season.
CoIorfuI Neckwcar within Pale.
There was once the same prejudice
against bright colored neckwear tina,
! there was TO colored handkerChiefs OF
colored lingerie. and one used to hear
! conservative women speak OF these
/ things as being beyond the pale so faI
as women OF taste were concerned.
Now we are getting over this preju-
! dice and one OF the new contributions
! to Colorful accessories is collar and
cum sets OF bright ruby red. These arr
blue Innings, and are regarded as espe
cially desirable to tighten up dart
blue frock
Not for years has there been such &
| demand for silk petticoats OF brigh'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
FASHIONS FADS AND FANCIES

r. NORMOCS braided buttonholes
* with buttons at one end form
- the trimming Of some OF the
new dresses put out by Premet. On
ono there are three of these, forming
the trimming Of the bodice, the top
most one being at least six inches
long, the centre one perhaps i've
inches, and the one nearest the waist
line possibly four inches. -Four graded
buttonholes OF similar construction
trim tho upper part Of the front panel
of the skirt.
Extremely effective Is French
frock OF black satin. the only trimming
OF which is embroidery of gay silk in
q large design.
Window decolletage is one Of the
new things IN afternoon frocks. a
bodice so constructed shows an oval
opening in the front some three inches
below the round neckline, and on each
sleeve two or three inches above the
short elbow sleeves.
We used to wear woollen frocks
trimmed with silk; now we wear silA
frocks trimmed with wool, Often this
woollen trimming takes the form OF
embroidered motifs of gay colored
worsted Sometimes the embroidery
is OF a single tone OF worsted worked
merely in stripes. And again thu
woollen trimming takes the form o.
cutouts OF woollen fabric applied IL
the silk BY means of stitching o.
coarse Embroidery stitches in wooller
worsted.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

THIS Florentins couture. The broad,
Nat ha, Of Naples has bcen brought
ou' and Is adopted by ono young ma
iron whose face figures in half the
periodicals Of the day, and her side
companion, who also wears the an
Gent Italian hair cut, adopts the Flor
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
JEW SPRING FASHIONS

entine velvet hat with its trimming
OF two rows OF coral beads.
1t must be admitted that the women
themselves have seen to II that they
look we'll in any type OF hat with this
bobhed hair, whether 1t be turban or
Tat brim. They cannot, OF course. wear
hats OF exceeding dignity, but they try
certain type OF distinguished hat
which Is considered the leading thing
by the milliners, and they carry II OF
with great skill This Is the immense
black thread lace hat, Transparent
with It's broad Alsatian bow wired
across the front This is the hat that
will supersede, for the spring, the up
tuned, many pointed, theatrical hat Of
silk plush and velvet, with Its aigrettes
The story comes from Paris that
women have abandoned the Veil. They
are tired OF it. They have taken 20
cartwheel hats and do not wish TO
destroy the outline of the brim BY the
folds of n face covering. There are
women over here. however, recently
returned from Paris, who are wearing
the most curious veil America has
seen. 1t Is attached to a turban; II
is as thick as the heaviest coarse net
can he woven, and It is drawn tight
around the eyes and the top OF the
nose. leaving the neck and lower part
OF tho face bare.
Imitation of IA Nnst.
II is the best imitation OF a mask
that VIC have had SO far, and It is in
- s,' ,,,Lta,, 49,, ,,-o,-, o,,.-
,,' ' in'' ,',1 o.. ~ ,ha ,ana ~. 70 our
Wv, ss.,,.,..', sa,,,x;,i.taa IA.
wv ,.e,,o -, ,,ai,
- . 49,, g. -, 1891
-' - w., 80, ~. a.. 81, =,
W. ~ Wv ''',r u''' -.
w - , i e.,,a..I.,, 0''0 '''
,.,. ,,ro ,,,,,i,o.o,s o.. ,,..,,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
DEMAND THIS SEASON is FOR BRIGHT Col

hue as there is at present. This was
not Il fashion set by any fashion lead
ers or even in any one fashion centre,
but everywhere where women buy
clothes there seemed 10 ho a demand
for the brighter. more colorful silk
pctticoats and instead Of selecting the
more subdued hues that have enjoyed
popularity during the drab days Of war
shopkeepers noticed a sudden swcrN =
ing to the hues that were vivid, so de
cided In fact that they had to send
hurried orders for moro bright petit
coats to meet this demand.
There is apparently no effort to So
lect the silk pett!coat that harnoni2cs
with the suit or froCk with which II
ls worn. with the dark street suit one
selects rose or fuohs.a or flame color,
one OF the new greens, purple or
orange brown.
Magpie Combination Revived.
Tho revived interest IN tho black and
white or imagine combination Is really
part OF this new craze for bright cu!urS
| for as far as the effect Is concerned
black ana white In combination has
nothing TO do either with all black OF
all white, and II is sure to come 10 the
| foreground only in seasons when
women OF fashion go in FOR bright
high colors.
During tho war littlo Of it was seen
II was too vivid. too striking, tao gay
But with the new interest IN bright
hues it has come TO us own ana is
hound to he seen In many Of the nov
! frocks and may find ncceptanc" 1t
some OF the midscason millinery.
Because OF the sentiment counCetc,
with French blue and the actual fac
that II Is very becoming tn mos
women. the dressnakors are hringing
out accessories In this color Thtrt
ara French blue handkcrChiefS Slip
pers and stockings; there are blouse.
OF Il made of han ikerchief linen; an,
one OF the foremost designers oe tai
lored suits in the country uses Frcncl
blue blouses frilled crom neck t. wais
under suits Of covert cloth.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

comes in contact with tho outer edge
OF huge Alsatian bow. a Spanish hat
OF black lace with a nas9uo rut,ie at
the edge oohs serenely agains, an
overseas cap of horizon blue angora
trimmed with n slightly irregular scar
let cross; the turban' of priest Of the
Russian church Is sandwiched between
Gainsborough picture hat and a
Florent!ne hat Garlanded with coral.
Nothing Dull in Millinery.
There Is nothing dun in millinery
to-day. If one could get together all
the, hats worn on the American CONT
nent, classify them, and divide them
into chapters. one would DO presented
with sartorial history OF the word.
Here and there one sees a new ma
terial attached 10 an old shape. Such
is the case when dyed suede is used
for an oblong turbau. with its surface
! perforated in an edelwe!ss design
taken from the Swiss Alps and copied
from the patterns used III the Madeira
! Islands. Right here you have a tumble
Of people and nationaliticS all in one
tiny cap tilted over the left eyebrow
VI bii-' AA-eSo sNcuc 'ois al u ~ w
bright pink, horizon blue and pottery
red Their sole characterization Is the
perforation.
! Some one has insisted that the re-
vival OF perforated designs on al our
clothes came through the use OF pape,
napkins In the war. Good thought. hui
hardly true. Whatever the source, Tho
fashion Ia here. The milliners ma!
have originated It, but the dressmak
ers borrowed il over night, FOR The
midsesson froCks OF white broadClot!
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

makers table. They can use small
and irregular lengths, and with these
they turn out gorgeous Arabian hats,
and here and there a Russian turban,
In which certain women look extremely
al
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

frocks OF organdie or other sheer cot
ton or linen fabrics Is by means OF
what Is known az double work, and
this liz some thing that can be accom-
plished at home as well as by the pro-
fessional dressmaker. The effect is
produced by turning back the ma
teria or applying It over tho body OF
the frock in simple design and then
joining It by line of hemstitching or
fancy stltchery and cutting II close
along this line, thus producing tho DE-
sign IN tho double thickness OF the
material.
II liz an effective way to finish collars
and cuffs, and n charming skirt trim
ming can be produced by turning UP
the hem in Wall of Troy or other de-
! sign and stitching 1t back along that
line. One need not OF course work
this hemstitching by hard, hut Il can
DO done for so much yard at the shop
where you have pleatlng done and but
ton moulds covered.
Many OF the new organize and other
sheer frocks are made with hens so
deep as to meet midway from the
ankles to the waist line, This makes
the frock set rather better than other
wise, because OF the added weight al
the lower half of the skirt and also
renders a skirt made Of transparent
material less transparent
One or two Of the new frocks put
out by the celebrated French dress
makers show tucks pressed upward
This trimming Is used on the skirt
and on tho bodice, and is one that any
clever home dressmaker could use tc
advantage in a crisp fabric.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
s the days grow longer our love


might be said truthfulIy every
season with regard to women and the
clothes they buy. M!lliners know this
to DO true, for II Is always in the
after Christmas purchases that they
have the greatest demand for hats OF
bright color, and though the woman
who buys several hats a season selects
black hats and hats OF a color TO
match her street suits at the begin
ming OF the winter, when the days
grow longer and even before there Is
tho first suggestion OF spring, she
yearns for the hats that give a strong
color note TO her costume.
Some seasons there Is a late winter
vogue for hats OF n shade OF red. then
again this tendency takes the form of
a fancy for hats OF bright metallic
fabric. again II Is the hat OF bright
Natter blue, the purple hat or the hat
of striking green.
But this year the tendency TO crave
bright colors Is stronger than ever.
And this can easily be put down as one
Of the results OF peace. 1t came as a
spontaneous longing. both on this side
OF the ocean and In England and
France.
Women here did not walt to be as
sured that New York had set the pace
in this regard. In Washington az din
ncrs and dances bright colors were in
striking evidence. Even before women
could have any new frocks made they
chose the gayest colors In their ward
robe and wore even an old frock 30
long as II was colorful.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

The transparent hat Is beyond ques-
hour. II means that the couture must
come back into orderliness and lowell
ness. The crowns of these hats are
often high and gently manipulated by
the fingers to give grace. and one OF
the best French hats takes the crown
of the American doughhoy hat as It's
model.
AS brown rules IN yelling. so Il
seems 20 rule in tulle hats. II is Of
ten in the color that the French call
"marron," that chestnut brown which
Is soft and becoming. over there
smart women wear stockings OF II
with black slippers. even in evening
dress. and they like II in all the nc
Ccssories. over hero we are Just be
ginning to grasp its Importance. The
millners believe that IN copper and
chestnut, the brown hat Will rule ths
spring season.
The Florrntinc roirure Is no longer
a caprice Of tho extremists. II is 70
longer = sensational biz uf hravalo
Tho war has installed Il as Il stronl
fashion. Women with gray hair wear
II bobbcd TO the nape OF the neck ol
curled under 10 appear as though i
| were cut Girls with every shade q
hair wear Il. Matrons with hal,
grown children adopt II.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
Brown Frock. Discarded.

The brown evening frocks In vogue
earlier in the season were hung on
back peg of the wardrobe and the
frocks Of rose or green or cloth OF
gold were chosen in their places. At
winter resorts this demand for colors
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12
TIsrentine Coinurc Popular.

So tho milliners. after frantic
wringing Of tho hands, have decided
that they must meet this new demand.
There must be a large and creative
impulse for hats that Will 20 WITH
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-01-12

An effective mode OF trimming