The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-20

Sometimes we had to resort to lit
tie tricks to introduce our Wines" con-
tinued NJ. Mouquin. AN order with
out wine was likely to result differ
emily for the guest than an order with
wine. In the old Nassau street place
an indignant man when he came to
pay his bill exclaimed, That's no lamb
stew; its bones, bones, bones He
came back. though, in course of time
and ordered some light wine with his
lamb stew and he got the best that
could be served, all lamb and no bones.
He was an Irishman with a sense OF
humor. "Ah, see the pint" And he
never forgot it.
1t was easier sailing when Mouquins
came into its present quarters and
when eventually it was expanded to
include the historical old tavern, the
knickerbocker Cottage on Sixth ave-
nue.. The Fulton street place from
the first became the MONDAY meeting
place for men from the financial dis
trict, officials and politicians from the
City Hall and the Federal Building.
lawyers, editors and reporters.
Jimmy's Famous Table.
Common interests naturally drew
men together and TO the same tables
to be served always by the same wait
ers. The largest of these was known
as "Jimmy's table"
There were at least twenty at It,
sometimes more. most OF them news
paper men or their friends" said Chat
fard, who was then a downtown head
waiter. "It was lively and busy from
the time they began to gather at noon.
Jimmy took all the orders and never
made a mistake in one. There was no
dumbwaiter there and he had to carry
every tray up thlrty-three steps. Yes
he died. poor fellow. the table sent him
flowers and remembered his family
But 'Jimmy's table died when he did"
1t is not necessary to reserve seats
against the MONDAY rush. There is a
generous regard for time acquired
rights at Mouquin's. even with the
newcomers. The man who sells native
wines and the other one who sells
California olive oil can always be as
sured that they can talk over trade
conditions with the cigar maker and
the jeweller at a certain table against
the west wall every day from noon
until / o'clock.
The bald headed man who takes milk
and toast six Moons a week has the
same assurance OF a seat under the
south window so that he can look out
to see II it Is going to rain; so also has
the little gray haired fellow who
wants chair near the cigar stand so
that he can Just lean back and get a
fresh smoke without leaving his seat.
Gaston's Favored Patron.
But il the crowd comes more swiftly
than usual Marks sometimes guards a
certain seat against the wall. and
Etienne tips chair at a table near
the front door. CASTOR does likewise
with chair at corner table. When
the war began the man who always
occupied that chair told CASTOR that
his boy, his only son, had enlisted ::
then that he had gone to the front.
Then after several days absence he
comes in with a black band on his
arm. From that day on Castor has
always kept that chair vacant so long
he thinks should occupy it might come.
Few restaurants In the world have
such list OF regular customers.
When l was making out n list al
our guests" said Louis Mouquin, 81
found so many names that were the
same as those OF our earliest patrons
that / began looking them up. They
were the names of the sons and the
grandsons Of our old friends.
I'm earlier days among frequent
visitors at Mouquins were President
Arthur, Henry Ward Beecher. Cardinal
McCloskey, Judge Pryor. Gen. Ma
gruder Whitelaw Reid, William Gull
len Bryant and John Rigelow. or the
distinguished editors who were counted
among the regular daily visitors We're
Charles A. Dana, Park Goodwin, Mayo
w. Hazelton, Amos j. Cummings
John Hay, Manton Marble, John Rus
sell Young, George Jones, Horace
Greeley and James Gordon Bennett.
"Of Mr.. Dana | was very fond"
said NJ. Henri Mouquin. "He was one
OF my earliest customers. He came tC
my place when was in Nassau street
and he moved with me when I went
10 Fulton street. He was always kind
and helpful to me and ! lost a valued
friend when he passed away. His
luncheon was always very simple
some brown bread. Swiss cheese and
mild French red wine | need nN
add that I used to scour the markets
to get the best OF all these for him
Horace Greeley was another grea,
editor who was one OF my regular
customers. He would often stop nj
the desk to tell me some new Joke OF
some interesting bit OF news or gossip
He was always good natured and he