El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1919-09-06

cause it was not worth anybody's
while TO destroy Il. the tomb OF "a
boy-died 1871" That is all anybody
knows about It
Madrid L. Disappointing.
Madrid as a city IS entirely disap-
pointing: compared with such places
as Sevilla- or Valencia. or Barcelona
il is a city without soul. personality.
or character. But T. has one OF the
greatest picture galleries IN Europe
the PradO. another splendid gallery
OF modern paintings only a magniIl-
cent museum OF archaeology and eth
nology: an armory filled with inter-
esting relics OF the old days and
pantheon more impressive than that
Of Paris or, in some ways, than Ma
poleou's tomb
The art gallery is richest IN paint
fngs by Murilio, Nelasquez, Goya-
Rfbera. ana some others OF the Span
ish school. but It Is fairly representa-
tive Of many other schools The Mu-
riIlo rooms are a lasting Joy At the
Prado one sees many old familiar IA
vorites- Among the Spanish moderns
there Is a fine vigorous note. IN both
drawing and coIoring; a definite and
distinct school IL IS refreshing and
inspiring One more evidence OF the
Spanish revival. that is everywhere
apparent
The archaeological museum is snor-
nously rich in Roman and Iberlan
remains. Indeed It IS the only i'm
portant collection OF Celtic-Iberic ma
terial. and presents every facility for
comparative studies. II is the hest
general museum I have seen in Eu-
rope. not only complete but very in
innate and personal
Mosque Becomes Cathedral.
In Toledo there are many wonder
ful things that some day VIII furnish
subjects for detailed description ]
saw them all. and went on to Cordoba
passing through the country OF Don
Quixote. Cordoba has a MOSQUE
which. next to Mecca, is the greatest
in the world, now a cathedral, and
presenting a curious mixture OF the
Moorish and Christian forms. The
country north OF and around Cordoba
Is one vast forest OF olive trees In
the city there are churches Ike bet
ter than the cathedral, which Is curl
Gus rather than beautiful At san
Pablo. which IS one OF the most
precious example OF early Gothic In
Europe because so pure and simple
while at the same time expansive. ]
Sunday night The entire church was
dark. except for the candles on the
altar OF the chapel OF the Virgin. and
il was crowded with worshipers- In
a dark corner sat an old gray man at
a tiny cabinet organ playing beautiful
compartments improvtsed for the
choir. which consisted OF two young
soldiers in uniform. a tenor and
baritone with fine voices. who sang
the long and elaborate service
through. from memory. in the dark
shall not forget the "Adoremus-"
Spain. for some reason. exercises a
little more freedom in church music
than the churches do in Germany and
France. But it IS kept pretty closely
TO the Gregorian standards neFerthe-
less There IS nothing florid about
it But I have heard some very sweet
boy voices in simple melodious hymns
or anthems.
SeviIla Has Great Charm.
.SeviIla is one Of the best OF all. a
cathedral is high, roomy. and bright
and there is fine consistency
throughout, with many splendid win
dows centuries old. The retabie is.
one OF the most remarkable I have
seen, for rich quiet beauty and mar
vel or workmanship In Sevilla ca
thedral Is the tomb OF Columbus. four
towering figures representing the
provinces OF Spain. bearing the tomb
or funeral urn on their shoulders. a
wholly original and unique concep-
ton. not bad artistically. and very
-0Q4 from a nAAlAAl1Lle eLanu point s
somebody's rather daring
departure from conventional design
Columbus never seemed 10 me so alive
OF SO real a figure as when / walked
around that singular group in the
costumes OF 100 years ago. and
thought OF his sailing off into the
unknown. from the little port close
BY. I saw a cross he gave to Isabella
made from the first gold he brought
10 Spain from Ar erica Later on. in
Granada, I saw Isabella's crown and
regalia or baton OF royalty. an Fer
dinand's sword. and the really Won
derful tomb where their remains now
lie, together with those Of the pathetic
pair who succeeded them. Joanna the
Fool and Philip. Il gives one a Curl
Gus sensation, to think OF them saw
ing up the dead the way they do
over here. The floor OF every church J
and cloIster Is paved with their coffin I
covers By the way. a curious ex-
ample OF widely advertised humility
Il that OF the very elaborate tomb be- ]
side the high altar in one OF the ca I
thedrals. bearing the inscription 1
Here lies dust, ashes. and nothing. I
that was cardinal so-and-so." He
was. bound TO be remembered as a 3
very humble cardinal One wonders /
what he would have done II he had
borne himself IN high esteem. It will /
be remembered that when William u.
erected his statue on the front Of