The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1919-04-13


extreme styles that are offered. This
set has always claimed that the
Franco,American fashions were ar
ranged between the designer and the
buyer and were not accepted by
French women who had either social
position or wealth.
This argument falls fiat this spring.
These clothes that are being exhibited
now in America have been actually
worn by women Of high social position
and Of the aristocracy In Paris since
November. Their costumes have been
SO strongly described and pictured in
the fashion magazines IN this country
that the outcome has not been pleas
ant or agreeable; It has caused the
first murmur Of protest or rebellion
among our people against the French.
We read of gorgeous costumes,
magnificent Jewels, eccentric apparel.
utterly unrelated to modesty, and the
mass Of people over here are apt to
ask why they should be called upon to
take upon their already burdened
shoulders the work of relief in France.
This Is natural feeling. 1t must
be oombated with one argument,
which is that the cables which describe
the Jewels and the costumes that sound
like the Arabian Nights deal with
very small set Of French people.
They relate the social doings Of little
group that has always made frivoiity
its chief aim In life. The tremendous
mass Of the French people are worthy
Of all that America can do. and they
themselves will murmur against such
display Of opulence, and Of flesh and
blood
What VIII America DO About ItS
This country has had time to get
over its peace shock, as the Dress
makers call 1t, and 1t has determined
in a large measure to refuse the ex-
treme decolletage and the short skirt.
We must of course expect certain
sets OF women to adopt both fashions.
ing women who delight In doing what
ever offers itself to cause q sensation.
We may expect TO see the skirt that
crosses in front just at the knee line
and opens as the wearer walks to show
satin tights in the manner OF the d.
rectoire, and we may expect to see the
bodices without any back whatever,
merely three pear shaped pieces caught
together with Jewels or galloon and
held up by a necklace that goes around
the neck and not over the shoulders.
The minority will not rule the ma
jority, however. in these fashions. AL
the American dressmakers do not spon-
sor them, and many Of the French
houses have neglected to combine the
two features, although they often show
one or the other.
In America we will adopt the mod
crate fashion. In social life the Anglo
Saxons have not objected to quite low
| decolletage. and they will continue II.
but their bodices will not be merely
pieces Of cloth reaching from one side
of the front to the other, with the top
at the line OF the bust.
That the new French fashion will
govern certain details Of our clothes Is
70 be expected. Yet the best of the i'm
porters over here believe that France
will change her style as tribute to
our refusal to accept 1t.
1t is firmly believed by those who
are in close touch with the Paris de-
signers that they intend to abandon
the short skirt for the June season.
when, 50 II is expected. the actual peace
fashions will appear.
In the meantime there IL no dearth
Of good and attractive ideas in this
country which all the women can fol-
low with satisfaction to themselves
and the public.
The short skirt can be accepted in
moderation; speaking honestly, It Is a
far more suitable and graceful style
Of garment for the open air than the
instep length skirt with It's tightness
at the knees.
The skirt that laps in front and does
not have q seam IL another attractive
idea that we can fitch from the ex-
IRENE French clothes: the short
sleeves are suitable under a wrap and
for country life. and although We may
deplore their common acceptance for
the street It Is quite probable that
they will be leading fashion among
; all classes Of women.
This disposes of the worst features
OF the new French clothes. The best
features are likable. The return OF
: navy blue serge. Of taffeta, OF silk jer-
sey. crepe de chine. delights the
American public. 1t likes these fabrics
It cares little for the sombre black
evening gowns that have prevailed at
our openings, and the public will prob
ably choose the pastel shades Of taf-
feta, the looped up effect over the
hips. the lace petticoat and the gar
lands of roses. They are a bit weary
OF metal cloth and metallic brocade
SO they will push these aside in favor
OF silk net tulle with sequins and
beads and wondrously colored chiffons
: one color superimposed on another In
the Oriental manner.
A fashion that NAV be run to the
ground Is the tassel, In all it's forms
There Is tendency on the part of the
designers to shower tassels over the
, surface Of frocks and to use kind OF
: embroidery that has a pendant orna-
ment from the centre Of each design
There Is n strong movement in every
phase OF dress to put floating lines
over tight surface. 1t may not be
: the most comprehensive description
5 OF this phase Of fashion, but the public
l probably will understand It. II ex-
presses itself in multitudinous ways;
In lines or groups OF tassels, In lonR
and short fringe. in swinging stream
l ers OF ribbon. OF roses, OF metallic
l cloth, In groups of silken cords, in
5 strands of cut Jet, in flying panels of
! the material lined with a vivid color
; The forerunner Of this movement in