South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-04-21
Made In America

When the makers of ready-to-
wear garments are endeavoring TO
establish American styles for Amer
lean women, it is interesting to note
that, for some time, many of the
better known mOdistes have been
working with this in mind. and that
in Chicago. especially, the movement
has advanced notably.
For some time. it has been di-
ficult TO obtain Paris models and
designs" explained a Chicago de-
signer recently, Formerly, we re-
ceived frocks or fashion books upon
which we could rely. and from these
we adapted designs, il, indeed, we
did not duplicate a dress or suit
just as it was. Our fashions were
almost wholly determined by what
Paris sent out. But, with the be-
ginning Of the war there was a rad
zeal change. For time, we receiv-
ed nothing, then models began TO
come TO US; but quite naturally,
there was little that was new, for
the French designers had other
more important things than clothes
10 think about. We receive books
and models now, but, if we can take
from them just a suggestion for a
new sleeve or collar or perhaps for
clever skirt drapery we thing we
are fortunate.
Consequently, we have been fore
ed TO develop modes of our own. A
woman's personal appearance and
preferences are more important than
a dressmaker's arbitrary decree;
and while the general style is not
greatly influenced by the present
tendency, the details Of a frock are
nowadays apt to be typical of the
woman who is to wear it, rather
than the representative of a set de-
sign. This has been a growing in
clination for some time, and the
dearth of new designs from Paris
has merely FASTENED its growth"
An indication of this tendency
in dress is seen in the decreasing
popularity of hand-woven asseccor-
les. A collar and belt of hand-wo-
ven silk or linen, dyed TO match
linen or serge frock, gives it q touch
that cannot be duplicated. And, this
year, we must depend on such
touches for novelty. according to
Chicago designer, if we are to
have it at all, for tn new fabrics
are scarce and there is small pros
pect of new ones being made.
I'VE are looking for new designs
rather than TO new fabrics now,
said this designer, and Chicago
dressmakers are encouraged TO Gre
ate new and original designs by an
association which we have here, call
ed the Fashion Art league. 1t is
an outgrowth Of our Dressmakers'
club and, at the semi-annual exhib-
itions which we have only original
designs are shown. In the past,
this has led to the development Of
some interesting. styles and we ex-
pect that, because of the absence Of
French designs, those who exhibit
will have a stronger incentive than
before to create destinctively Amer
/ lean clothes.
THE Chicago woman is apt TO be
! conservative; she does not wear
clothes that are notoceably different
from those which everyone is wear
\ ing unless she feels sure that, in
wearing them, she will not seem
| eccentric. She is dependent on 9TH
ers in a way. That is one reason
why it has taken so long for us to
develop even a tendency toward
the wearing of American designed
! clothes: women have looked 10 Paris
/ for so long for its stamp Of APPROX
al on what TO wear, that they hest
\ tate about proceeding without 1t.
/ Some Of them accuse US of trying to
perpertrate some sort of dress re-
| form: whereas we are only doing
what we should have done long
ago-standing on our own feet to
the best Of our ability. We could
never hope to design as the Partisan
| designers did, unless we made some
attempt to do So"
uestioned as to the probability
of the women throughout America
accepting the styles created, she
hesitaed
ut will take time, even after one
has accepted them" she said at
last. For example, the women OF
different cities dress differently
now: people say that one is ahead