davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1918-08-11
CLOTHES IN ADVANCE MENACE TIC
Hints From Paris About Checks Stripes and Blocks Will Help
September Shoppers Continue to Be PopuaShorter az
Sleeves and Colarless Gowns Aid in Saving Material r.

side. which deals with technicalities.
with transportation. with finance.
our manufacturers have to send
clothes over a stupendous area. and
this has to be done with skill. backed
by shrewd Judgment. But there must
be some way out of this rushing the
season" habit. which has become q
source of trouble to women.
1t is quite useless for the theorists
to cry out that it makes little Ciffer-
ence in war times whether or not a
woman Is in the fashion. The truth is
that there is no reason why women
should become careless of their ap-
pearance and void of all interest in
new clothes because the nation is fight
ing. Anyway, argument about the
thing is>mere waste of time. Til, fact
remains that women do care, and they
are not any different in this war than
they have been in the four thousand
years of human warfare OF which the
historians tell us. War may intensity
human nature, but it does not change
il one biz.
Money is valuable these days. and
labor far more so. This is no time for
mistakes in apparel. Everybody must
be assured that what is bought is the
right thing and will serve for months
without irritating the possessor.
Much Careless Buying.
Many OF the traders in apparel real
ize that panic and n form of COM
mercial hysteria have resulted in a
large amount Of carly buying. which
is not fair either to the individual or
to commerce. Every shopper has
shared the same experience this last
year Of being told that it is wise to
buy at once the articles necGed. be-
cause they might not be obtainable at
q later day.
This has resulted in a certain meas
IRE of boarding. which the Govern
ment does not allow in food. 1t has
already resulted in severe waste OF in
dividual money. Women, feeling the
press of this panic, have got clothes
in advance of the season. and they
now find that there are just as many
to be had as six months ago and that
the shape and texture have changed.
1t would be 4 far wiser method Of
spending ones money to buy a little
at the necessary time, representing
the best there is at that moment.
There will always he material Of
some kind. Even II the world is re-
duced to whole garments of sewn fis
leaves. there Is no reason why any one
woman should wish herself out of the
picture. Let her go along with the
momentum of the hour and buy and
wear garments of fig leaves.
The public is beginning to see the
wisdom Of buying a small amount at
the moment it is needed. 1t should be
| preached in every possible form of
propaganda that this is the wise way
to live during war time. Rest assured
that II the public buys up all the stock
OF one thing from a store that store
will be repleaished the moment its
supply is exhausted.
| OF course there are women who al
ways demand quality, They prefer tc
! have badly cut gown made in past
The sun., 1918-08-11

fashion if they are sure that every
thread is silk or wool. as the
case may be. But the majority OF
women are not inclined toward &C
cepting that system of dress
Therefore. let us start out in a new
measure of reform as soon as this
month is over, and face September
with no idea of rushing into shops and
buying everything that is Offered be-
cause 1t is labelled New" Maybe it is.
and maybe 1t isn't. But feeling of
panic among buyers that now is the
only chance to get enough clothes to
carry one through the winter results
In the very thing that the Government
desires most to see avoided-reckless
The sun., 1918-08-11

worn in whole suits and in parts Of
suits.
Can you imagine any piece of news
more gratefully received than that
which gives "A woman a chance to
make n new coat to an old skirt, or
the other way around"
There are colored stripes on a white
background made of heavy woollcn
material and built into a skirt to be
worn with any slip ON cuirass or
short jacket of co!orcd Goth or velvet.
There are dozens of checked and
mosaic suits and one piece frocks
Paris is full of them. They are worn
at Nichy, at Deauvilc, at Biarritz, and
they are shown by every big designer
who has house in Paris.
The sun., 1918-08-11

one hears that very few Capes are
smart unless they are touched up with
checked or plaid fabric. And Capes,
YOU know. are as smart as jackets,
ard VIII continue to be so through the
autumn. They are worn over separate
skirts and Cuirass blouses, or short
Chinese tunics, and they have that
sTagger military air that comes from
their careless arrangement across the
shoulders, All OF the new ones have
some kind of waistcoat arrangement
which holds them closely over the
bust and waist line.
skirts are narrow. AS the Govern
ment will allow shoes to be eight
inches from the ground the skirts
need not be heightened. For the pres
The sun., 1918-08-11

spending of money. So buy shrewdly
and not for boarding.
II there is to be economy in clothes
let it begin this week. 1t is at this
time, between the seasons. that a
woman can take thought of her ward
robe and twist and turn it according
ing TO prevailing fashion in a way
that will serve her until styles are
more settled. Then, when she has to
buy much she will buy wisely and
well
Here are some prophecies that may
hep you to be economical and wise.
One of them sounds like the first aid
to an injured wardrobe. 1t comes di-
rect from Paris, 1t is that checks
stripes and mosaic blocks are widely
The sun., 1918-08-11

ent they remain moderately short.
What the near future will bring out
no one can say.
There is a strong effort being made
on the part of individual designers to
introduce long skirts for evening wear,
but it is doubtful IL the experiment
will succeed at the present moment.
A lack of material does not bother the
buyers. because there is a sufficient
yardage Of certain fabrics in the world
to give a woman as many long skirts
as she wishes.
The use of knitted bands as trim
ming for all manner of clothes Is not
a rumor or prophecy. but fact that
any woman can make use Of in re-
modelling her mid season wardrobe.
The Government may tell us where
the wool comes from. The retailers
don't know. France started the trick
and America took 1t up with We
hemence. AS we are. now a nation of
accomplished knitters there is no
reason why these bands of ornamen-
tation should not be made on the
porch in idle hours.
The milliners put them on hats:
they are used on coats for collars and
cuffs; they trim one piece frocks;
they outline the edges of capes as a
facing. and they are in demand for
girdles and military belts.
Strips of colored Angora wool are
also in high favor Knitted silk is
offered by number of designers as
substitute for knitted wool. There
can be no question about getting as
many silk threads as one wants.
Smaller Sleeves, No Collars.
In the elimination of non essentials,
which is a vast process of reform
going on throughout the continent
and touching every industry, woman
finds that fashion permits her to omit
the collar and cut off her sleeves TO
five inch length.
This is an admirable aid TO reform
ing clothes. A bad neckline may be
cut away and stitched on its edges
or merely touched with a white or
candle piping: and sleeves that are
worn out at the elbows or ungrace-
fully adjusted at the wrists may be
clipped off above the elbow and given
a severe finish.
The insistence upon the cuirass
| blouse. which is the best name that
most of its followers can find relieves
a woman's mind as to what to do with
/ her separate skirts; and the fashion
for the modified minaret tunic, which
The sun., 1918-08-11
TIME trade, which means the vast
multitude of people engaged in

TIME trade, which means the vast
multitude of people engaged in
the making and selling OF
womens apparel, has at last sounded
a warming to those who buy too far
ahead of the seasons.
The public has dcplored this condi-
ton. 1t has been we'll known for sew
eral seasons that the average woman
did not care to buy a straw hat in
February and a velvet hat in july, or
to have all her autumn clothes offered
to her the first of September with the
assurance that they were the fashions
that would rule throughout the winter.
She has been often betrayed, and that
betrayal has not soothed her irritation
against those who sold her the clothes.
1t Is the fact also that the trade in
apparel has found Itself caught in a
net that tangled ami involved it, and
compelled each individual to struggle
for success in a manner contrary to
the dictates Of reason and sobriety.
Through this web of circumstances
every one has come to feeling that
something must be done in the crea-
ton of new fashions long before the
season for which they are to be worn.
and that the public must follow the
lines laid down by the trade competi-
tors.
Right here lies the extraordinary
gamble to women in buying clothes
early in the season. Right here lies
one of the greatest sources of money
wastage. Thousands of women, who
have no way of knowing what the
fashions will be as the season ad-
vances buy what is said to be new as
the season demands change.
What they buy in September has
probably been bought by the shop in
June. To keep up with the rising tide
Of forehandedness, the manufacturers
make The clothes earlier and earlier,
and the ready to wear shops and de-
partment stores, as rule. buy these
clothes as early as the manufacturers
make them, and get them out at the
very moment there is slight demand
for them.
What happens?
The sun., 1918-08-11

In October and in April the real
fashions come out for each season.
Hundreds of women-nay, thousands-
are faced with the fact that they have
bought gowns, or wraps, or hats that
are not in keeping with the new
clothes. They have bought clothes ar
ranged six months before the authentic
exhibitions Of new and seasonable ap-
parel.
What happens next?
The woman who can possibly scrape
up enough money to buy a new outfit
does so, and she also spends extra
money on a seamstress or little dress
maker to have her other clothes re-
modelled. Therefore, she spends twice
her allowance on clothes.
No layman can make n snapshot
judgment of this condition ana say
that the trade should change its meth
DDS. There is much TO be said on every
The sun., 1918-08-11

On the left is of the checked suits which Paris
houses send to America 1t is made with short skirt
and beted The tall silk beaver hat has double
band OF black velvet The suit the right is of
with short skirt and belted The sailor white felt
banded with black satin
The sun., 1918-08-11

The new cape worn IN
Paris is black velour
heavily bordered and
faced with black and
white checked cloth. Il
has suspenders that 90
over the shoulders Ions
enough to form a girdlc,
The skirt is of black We
lour, and the cuirass
blouse is of soft white
taffeta.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
STILL RUN LATE
Railroads Have No Schedules
for Trains Today.
Little Information on East
and West Trains.

Even at noon today the railroad
ticket agents were unable to furnish
very definite information in regard to
the arrival of trains in Topeka. The
Union Pacific had been unable to get
a report, and only one passenger-No.
169 from Kansas City, which arrived
about $50 this morning-has come
into the station today. besides two
locals from junction City.
The Santa Fe reported a westbound
train from Kansas City expected in
Topeka about 11.39 today. No. 5, it
was expected. would arrive about 1:45
o'clock and all others were uncertain.
The Rock Island reported No. 80,
eastbound, due at 2:35; No. &c, east
bound. at 4:35; No. IL from Dallas
about $3.50 and another train from El
Paso about 10 O'Clock tonight. All
train are running slow both east and
west.
The operators are waiting on edge
every minute expecting information on
even one train. The telephones in the
railroad offices are the hardest phones
in town with which it is possible to
get a connection on account of ap-
parently most of Topeka calling up TO
find out where certain trains are and
when they will be expected in, either
in the hope of going somewhere for
Christmas or of learning of the eX-
pected arrival of friends
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25

ably not before the last of the week.
At IL o'clock this morning the wind
was blowing at the rate of eight miles
an hour from the west. At 10 o'clock
the temperature registered degrees
above zero.
The extremes on record for this
date We're 81 in 1889 and / degree
above zero in 1914.
Suffering in Clark County
In Clark county country roads are
blocked, rail traffic tied up, and the
cattle are suffering for lack of ed
and water.
The first train to arrive ii Pueblo
Tuesday from the east got into the
city day and one-half late 1t was
Santa Fe train No. II. 1t was stalled
at Dodge City on account of the snow
drifts. The Missouri Pacific lines re-
main tied up east of the Colorado line.
A train was sent from Pueblo Tuesday
afternoon in an effort to reach Hois-
ington.
The storm has practically isolated
Jetmo-e The town has had no mail
or train service since Saturday.
Storm Moves East.
On Tuesday the storm, character
lied by heavy general SHOWS and a
driving north wind extending over the
entire state of Kansas, delaying rail
traffic. tying up street car service in
the towns. blockading country roads.
holding up anxious Christmas pilgrims
to the old home and laying down a
perfect covering for the immense
wheat crop expected next year. passed
on to the eastern and central parts of
the United States. That section of the
country is receiving one of the heaviest
snow storms that has been experienced
IN many years From Chicago, ST.
Paul. Des Moines and Kansas City
come reports of very heavy SHOWS that
almost resulted in a complete tie-up of
traffic. The Texas Panhandle. Okla
homa. Missouri and Kentucky were
CONTINUED on Psge Two.)
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
Direct Suffrage Granted to Men
and Women Over 81.
Prussian National Assembly To
Be Held January 26.
RIOTS IN BERLIN ARE BROKEN
Order Restored After Clash Of
Marines With Guard.
Sailors Fortified Selves in Royal
Palace, Casualties Resulted.
BY FRANK J. TAYLOR.

Berlin, Dec. 25.-Order was restored
today after mutinous marines had
fortified themselves in the royal palace
for several hours. following a clash
with the republican guard
The trouble arose when the marines
refused to obey orders transferring
them to various naval bases. A num-
ber of regiments participated in the
fighting with the guard, which re-
suited in several casualties.
A deputation Of federal offices sue
ceeded in arranging parley with the
marines in the palace. and an agree
the marines were to remain in Berlin.
while others were to report to Kiel
and other ports.
Political Situation Doubtful.
The political situation continues to
wear a variegated complexion. The
royalists and republicans are carry
ing out their propagandist war. In
Bavaria, where the monarchist move
ment appears to have gained some
headway, the Catholics are proposing
a referendum to decide between a
monarchy and a republic.
The Prussian national assembly. 1t
has been decided, will be held Janu :
ary 26. The twenty-three electoral
districts will select 401 delegates.
mitted to all men and women over Il.
High Officials Dismissed.
Admiral Won Hipper, commander OF
the late German high seas fleet; Ad-
miral Bachmann, commander Of what
was the Baltic fleet, and Captain
Heneke, naval commander at Kiel,
have been dismissed from office. 1t is
understood that Field Marshal Won
Hindenburg will retain his position as
chief Of the armies.
Ninety thousand unemployed men
and women In Berlin are being, sup
ported by the government. The peo-
pies council has notified them that
they must obtain work in the country,
where there is an urgent need of labor.
or this support will cease.
Clase Bavnriap FactoricA
A dispatch from Munich today
stated that on account of the coal
shortage, all -Bavartan factories have
closed for a period of ten days. The
government meanwhile will pay the
employees full wages. s.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
American People Determined
Upon Memorable Celebration.
Old Spirit of Good VIII Toward
Men Is Revived.
WILSON IN FRANCE WITH ARMY
Daniels Leaves Washington To
Welcome Returning Fleet.
Baker and Soldiers Play Santa
to the Riddles.

Washington, Dec. 25.-America to-
day celebrated victory Christmas.
With the world at peace for the
first Christmas since 1913, because of
the victories of the military forces OF
the United States and the allies, the
American people appeared determined
to make today's celebration memor-
able This determination seemed to
have been intensified by President
Wilson'S Christmas message to the
American people saying that "Thruout
the great nations with which we have
been associated in this war. public
opinion strongly sustains all proposals
for just and lasting peace"
Spirit of Former Years.
A return to the Merry Christmas of
former years was. apparent thruout
the nation. Business reviews showed
that despite uncertainties of recon-
struction the old spirit of giving ac-
companied by good will toward men
has been revived.
In the celebration of the Victory
Christmas the soldiers and sailors who
made such a Christmas possible had
large part. Tho large proportion of
the military force of the nation re-
manned overseas, those who have re-
turned were given a welcome in every
community and nad a large part III
the days celebration.
In Washington the day was cele-
brated quietly but Fundamentally.
For he first time in the nations his
tory Christmas was not observed at the
White House. President Wilson, in
France for the Peace conference, spent
the day with tie American troops at
the front. Members of the cabinet
and of congress spent the day with
their families.
Daniels to Greet Fleet.
Secretary Daniels was to leave
Washingt late today for New York
welcome home the units of the
American fleet which have been in
the war zone. Secretary Baker at
tended a Christmas celebration for the
poor children of the city held in the
ro.unda of the capitol.
Assisted by 500 soldiers from nearby
camps, the war secretary acted as a
chief Santa Claus for the children and
aided in the distribution of gifts from
a large Christmas tree brought from
the Washington estate at Mount
Vernon.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25

The temperature for the day aver
aged 81 degrees below normal. At
noon the wind was blowing miles an
hour from the west.
Today was the coolest Christmas on
at and O'Clock this morning was
zero flat, perhaps a fraction of de-
gree lower, says S. d. Flora, state
meteorologist. In thirtytwo years the
present Christmas is the only one To
peka has had zero weather on that
day
kansas led the country in the ap-
parent endeavor to break a few cold
records by way of celebrating the
Christmas day. Wichita and Dodge
City. both reporting a temperature of
Il degrees below zero. topped off the
country with the coolest weather re-
corded any place in the United States.
Concordia did as well as Topeka, MAX
ing another zero flat. Kansas City
could only make degrees above zero.
Mercury Up Slowly.
The wind and snow storm which
swept over Kansas into southern Hi
nois has left that country and was
reported this morning around Boston.
Illinois, Ohio and Pennsylvania re-
port heavy SHOWS. No snow has been
reported in Kansas since Tuesday
morning. North and west of Kansas
the storm is over also No snow has
been reported. from Denver, or the
states of Nebraska, Wyoming and
South Dakota. Crisp. cold weather
with clear skies, just like it is here.
was reported from these districts this
morning.
The forecast calls for temperature
of degrees above zero for tomorrow
morning. In the afternoon the tenn
peratUre will climb up a little to 20
degrees. Today it will rise no higher
~ 1 Il t,<,x y,
be no weather warm enough to take
the snow away for several days, prob
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
EATS REAL CHOW
President Wilson Dimes Today
With New England Division.
After VISIT to Troops He Leaves
For England Tonight.
(BY ROBERT J. BENDER. }

(BY ROBERT J. BENDER.)
Chaumont, Dec. 25.-President
Wilson spent Christmas in the heart
of Americas military organization in
France. For the first time an Ameri-
can executive assumed the actual role
of commander-in-ch of the United
States army in foreign territory.
After passing thru the fields of the
Marine battles of 1914 and 1913 on
special train during the night the
president arrived at American head
quarters here early today.
As he stepped from the train,
French and American guards of honor
snapped to- attention and an American
band played the Star Spangled Ban
ner."
Among those who greeted him at
the station were General Pershing,
General Wercel, Frenca commander
in this zone, the mayor and the pre-
feet Of police.
Gets Cosmopolitan Welcome.
The president and his party were
driven in automobiles thru the quaint
old streets to the Hotel de Vile. He
doughboys, poilus and civilians as he
passed thru the beflagged streets.
From a struggling village, built up
around the centuries old cathedral.
Chaumont has become the chief
American city in Europe Its archi-
marred by the rough wooden buildings
which have sprung up everywhere to
house the American military ma
chinery, but these were more or less
successfully hidden under a camou-
flage of flags and bunting.
Eat With 28th Division.
The president. after a brief recep-
ton at the Hotel de Vile, left for
Langres. where he will review and ad-
dress the troops. From there he went
to Montigny-Le-Roi. headquarters OF
the 26th New England) division. and
helped the doughboys eat their special
Christmas Chow"
Touring thru the bilieting areas, the
president found cleanliness and order
everywhere. The villages were
"policed up" and the natives, carrying
flags and dressed in their Sunday best
were on hand to greet him.
Returning to Chaumont. the presi-
dent reviewed the headquarters gar
rison. The troops were drawn up in
the big court yard about which the
army executive buildings stand Will
sons automobile circIed the court yard
then sped up the broad boulevard to
General Pershing's chateau.
The president played in luck again
on the weather. for while it seemed &c
the visiting party to be cold and bleak
and rain was apparently threatening
tContinued on Page TwOl
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
BACK AS VlCTORS
Great American Overseas Fleet
Is Due Home Tonight.
viii Lie Outside Harbor Till
Big Review Tomorrow.

Washington. Dec. 25.--Tomorrow a
part of the fleet that helped keep the
seas safe will pass in grand review at
New York. Secretary of the Navy
Daniels was to leave here this after
noon to participate in it. With him
will be Chief of Staff March.
The ships are due in tonight from
overseas. but will lie outside the har-
Dor until tomorrow.
Before leaving. Daniels declared
that the ships come back as victors.
I'm welcoming home the powerful
dreadnaughts.' he said, the Ameri-
can people will greet the officers and
men with pride and congratulations.
These powerful ships. the equal of any
in the world, in cooperation with the
powerful British fleet. gave such pre-
dominance of sea power in the North
sea that the German fleet dared not
invite suicide by coming out and offer
ing battle"
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1918-12-25
WILL NOT INTERVENE
Allies Decide Not To Continue Mill
tary Operations in Russia.

Paris, Dec. 25.-The allied govern
ments have decided against further
intervention in Russia, at least for
the present, according to indications
from official circles. 1-eat Britain
and the United States, it is represent
ed, while recognizing that Russia
should be assisted in way to permit
her to return to normal conditions,
point that militia " intervention on a
large scale would involve difficulties of
all kinds. stephen. Pichon. the French
foreign minister, explained the sit Ia
tion at length to the committee on
foreign relations yesterday. He said
the solution at present favored was to
guarantee moral support to the gov
ernments which had sprung up at va
rious points on Russian and Siberian
territory