The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-08

nero one can mourn becomingly.
Formerly the, first rule of French
mourning was that bereft wives and
mothers must swathe themselves an a
heavy shawl that gave them the ap-
pearance of shapeless, ambulating
mummies. Pushed UP In awkward
folds about the neck and under the
hat, the shawl almost completely hid
the wearer under its fulness. Accord
ing to an unwritten law. this particu-
lar trapping of woe was worn for at
least forty days. To-day only very old
women are willing to obliterate their
personality under one of these I'M
graceful wraps.
swathing shawls RepIac ed.
Following the present fashion die
tum a long coat or loose jacket
takes the place OF the disflguring
shawl. Even for women of a certain
age this shawl has been discarded in
favor Of a small, two pointed cape
that closely follows the outline of the
shoulders and does away with the
former inelegant drapery about the
neck. Later, when the period Of
deepest mourning has passed. the
cape, which is Of the same material
as the dress, is remodelled into an
other garment. 1t IL lined or not. ac-
cording to the season. For summer
wear grenadine lined with lusterless
silk and edged with English Grape IS
the accepted model.
English Grape is the barometer OF
the depth Of a Frenchwoman's mourn
ing. 1t is Of two qualities. One
which Is stiff and has a certain body
is employed for trimmings. The
other, chiffon crepe, is used for
blouses. tunics, girdles or sleeves. For
practical reasons Grape garnitures
should always I've fastened to tho frock
by few loose stitches SO that they
may be easily removed when they
have done their duty and afterwards
be replaced by similar trimmings OF
dull silk or any other mourning tbs.
sues.
AS Grape Is most perishable The
Parisienne selects 1t carefully, espe'
cially when her frock is designed fol
long wear. Thus, at the bottom o.
the sleeve she places small turn
lover cuff which can be easily fresh
ened when it Is worn and which /!
simpler than renewing the entir,
sleeve. Another point of Frencl
ECONOMY Is the position of the trim
miDgs of the skirt. The Grape is Sc
IA little above the hem, or better still
Ia. the bottom Of the tunic, where tn,
wear and tear is not so great as OIL
the skirt.
The Parisienne, whose profession O.
inclination leads her to a sedentar!
| life. eschews big collars or waist!
trimmed at the back, realizing tina
! the constant friction from a chat
soon spoi!s the immaculate FRESHNESS
of Grape. which is its primary requi
site. The Frenchwoman rarely buy!
an inferior quality of Grape, for sh'
knows that, as it has no lasting quail
ties, It is more expensive In the enc
than that which originally cost more
| Combfnations With Grape.
In France Grape is combined witt
! all kinds Of materials, from wooller
goods to the most fragile chiffon. Used
with serge, heavier, more deeply
marked pattern is chosen than wher
mousseline de sole is the foundation.
Formerly on French mourning hats
| the entire trimming lay in the long
veil, and when this veil was discarded
The hat could still be worn with 6
bunch Of violets tucked in at one side
Nowadays the veil is not only the
symbol OF mourning but it has becom,
| almost the sole trimming of the cha
peau, for under the veil the hat is no
much more than a round shape useC
as the foundation to which to tack tn,
veil.
In Paris one sees wells of all kind.
that are put on in countless becoming
ways. The trained nurses veil ha:
| inspired one style that has beer
adapted TO mourning hats with tn,
greatest success. Then there Is tn,
| question of length. In France mourn
ing wells are generally very long IL
back. A becoming fashion covers tn,
hat and the upper Part of the face
dropping at the sides and still more 81
at the back.
One of the newest wells completed,
hides hat and hair, passes under tn,
chin like a nuns Golf, and is used fo
deepest mourning, especially whei
made Of opaque silk wolfe edged will
Grape. Wells are fashioned OF sill
tulle, mousseline. silk wolfe or grena
dine. Mourning wells are often edge,
with lusterless ribbon, with a fold o
light Grape, with dull black beads o
with design in straw. They ar
scalloped or hemstitched, or have
picot edge, formed by cutting wild
hernstitch in half. One fact stands on
this season-the mourning Vel rarel,
covers the entire face.
White Gsrnitures Used.
White garnitures are permissible
even for deepest mourning, and com
in the guisc of small collars, turn owe
cuffs, Innings and guimpes; or bia
folds or Innings on the edge of hats
and even for hats that may be com
pletely white II covered with a blacl
veil These trimmings are made o
white English Grape. crepe lisse, Chi
nese crepe, grenadine, wolfe or silk jer
sey.
When in deep mourning the Parisi
enne is severely simple in her dress
which always consists of woollei
goods trimmed with Grape. After tn
first six months she changed to dul
crepe dc chine. cloth and silk cash
mere, whose lack Of sheen adapts then
to mourning garb. Though mourning
dresses are simple, they nevertheless
follow the trend OF the prevailing
mode and in hot weather the bodic,
is often made slightly decollete an