Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-06-09

thin stockings and paper-soled
pumps. Probably it is six OF one ana
half dozen of the other.
AT least" says the woman. Il do
change the fabric of my garments to
suit the season"
And though the mans response to
that is a scornful summer furs!"
yet, in the main, it is true that she
does so. and he does not. An increas-,
ingly large number of men are wear
ing pongee and other light tissues in
the torrid weather. but the difficulty
of keeping such things in order. their
sensitiveness to dust and the fatal IA
cility with which they wrinkle keep
the great majority OF males from IN
dulging in them to any great extent
But there is an army of women who
go clothed in cotton and linen from
May to October; who Will pay ex-
travagant laundry bills II they i've
electric iron in their trunks when
they visit the country; who will pay
almost any price in time. money and
convenience for the privilege OF wear
ing thin clothes throughout the Dog
days.
There Is a great army of them who
still, in spite of war work, make their
own summer frocks. by the aid of a
other even larger group who soive
six months dressmaking problems by
buying ginghams and muslins and
hiring the services Of a dressmaker
Are ali these women going to be
bound down by Standardization? or
course not.
but because it is cheap. to which the
makers of summer fabrics have al
ways catered. there is the eternal
fascination of the materials them
their freshness. their delicious color.
Don't suppose that mere war is
going to make women lost sight OF
the advantage that a harmonious
color scheme in dress can give them.
AS a sex women have more feeling
for color than men. they respond to it
more quickly. they understand how
to adapt it to practical uses better.
studying it in its relation to their
compilations. There is here and there
an adventurous male soul who dares
indulge his color sense in his shirks.
socks and ties, but he is one of the
most popular targets for the genius
of the comic artist" and the shrapnel
of the paragrapher. Millions of mas
culine necks in this vast country are
white, shiny collar. no matter what
the color of that neck may be. Somber
shades of blue. brown, gray, and here
and there timid green. are pre-
empted by the tailors as mems wear"
colors, and he is brave spirit who
dares transgress the dictum.
Xxx
To woman, however. the whole
range of a futurist palette is free. Let
her take due through for her hair
and her COMPLEXION, and she may put
together any shades she pleases.
While we were under the influence Of
the Russian ballet her fancy certainly
was as untrammeled as bird in the
blue; some women were walking
rainbows.
This year we are more discreet. Bril-
liant tones are still to be seen, but
the general feeling is one of modera-
tion in all things, even in color. The
gaudy shades are reserved for legiti-
mate sports clothes or for use in ac-
centing notes of the costume. SO
that only keen eye notices them at
all.
Fabrics. too, are discreet. Very
popular are net. foulard and organdy.
One may be gay in foulard, it is true.
but one Is more apt to be navy blue
or black or gray in it, Organdy is
subtle in it's color range, not striking.
ana the clOtneS tnaI we construct or
it have an atmosphere Of "old -timey-
ness" far removed from anything SO
smashing. dashing. as the Russian
ballet color combinations. In less ex-
: pensive fabrics, which are among the
few things that remain within the
reach of the woman of modest budget.
there are the printed voiles. the ever
popular ginghams and the seasons
revival, calico, or percale. to give it
the name under which it is sold in
most places.
Several sketches on this page show
adaptations of these materials. Or
CANDY is used for the clever, trans
ferable fichu shown in one of the
sketches. Here is a revival from
Watteau times. which gives an in
valuable hint for the freshening of
last summers tub dresses, which
were too severe for this seasons
fancy. The HIT has borrowed some
brim is of straw, the mushroom
crown. which might also have been
taken from a La Tour pastel, is of
organdy. A very clever milliner
showed some hats this spring which
were transformable"-t is to
say. they had crowns and brims
which one could take apart and COM
blne again in great variety. A white
SILK brim could be worn with soft
crowns of different colored organdy,
to match different frocks, and the
"foolproof"
Anothr sketch gives an old-fash-
Toned revival for a calico frock COM
bined with organdy in the form of a
sash. Elizabeth Bennett might have
hi.f