The Monticellonian., 1918-10-18
FURS PROMISE TO
 BE IN EVIDENCE

New York-Onee upon q time the Roman warriors pulled over their heads the shaggy hides of animals as they advanced on the enemy They had the primitive, chldike belief that the sight of the animals would fright en the opposing side. Such is the history of the grenader caps worn by the British army, and such is proba- ply the inspiration of the new war like clothes invented in these times of war.
 These are worn in Paris, or rather they were worn ut the Paris open ines, says a fashion writer They have arrived in this country, and their ac- ceptance Is dehdtable.
 There are women who will wear anything new, regardless of it's effect on their appearance, and these women may make the new fabrics fashionable. At first glance, they are rather ter rifying. One has d slight creeping of feeling for the opposing side to the legions of Caesar Even q stout- hearted warrior would hate to face a great rush Of animal skins moving to- ward him with rapidity.
 That will be the situation that must he faced by every stouthearted man this winter. if these shaggy materials take first place in fashion. To the observer they are the leading phase of the seasons output. They are pure ly q French inveHtion aud even if they are not accepted in their entirety of shagginess, they will undoubtedly pave The way fer an immediate output of silky materials with rough sur faces
 The first of these materials was called .Lianceau." and was invented late last winter, I think, and then used as q substitute for fur.
 Magnificent as We'll as Shaggy.
 The majority of those who dip deep- iy into the sources of fashions and fabrics insist that the entire output of these animalistic materials is due to the reerudeseenee of monkey fur That, however, would not explain the other fabrics which are used in the new French gowns that are arriving in this country. and which have hunting scenes. magnifcently ornamental, on a dark background. Jenny uses this material for panels and for large pieces of evening frocks.
 Then there are other fabrics which show birds and birds plumage as the ornamental design, but these are of Hrill tho ,i, oJ fabrics, which not only toss about the red and burnt-orange hair of monkeys and orang-outangs, but also the names of animals such as never existed on land or seq; these are made from five and six-inch strands of curled silky floss interwoven with metal.
 The bird fabrics are called "Ofsella" and the burnt-orange hides are called .Orang- -outang.a In other gowns, espe- eially one from Bulloz, there is used new material called "Tofson dor" which means "The Golden Fleece"
 Still another material-and the love- Hest of all because it is the most prac- tieal for American uSage-is the imi tation of q medieval coat of mail. This fabric, alongside the shaggy ones, seems to be cultured and modern.
 I am dwelling in detail on all these fabrics of the hour because I believe that the great masses of women over this continent are going into the shops very soon to buy materials for their new clothes. Every woman does not have an expensive dressmaker or a great department store to furnish her costumes for the season. Such tricks of fortune favor only the few The war has brought about an immense amount of home dressmaking. for all the seamStresses in the world cannot go into munition factories and earn large wages. Some of them must stick to their trade. and those who do can reap harvest.