Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1918-01-06

ground OF sombcr hills and dusty plains
The coast hills are always present. and
tho valleys between these and the Cor
diilcras OF the Andes are the only pro-
ductfvo parts OF this country. These
are like great sleeping elephants, in
hills. and those further inland as well.
color. contour and general effect. even
The loose folds of rouEhcned skin. There
must have been rainfa on these hills
| III remote times for the erosions are
not those of wind alone.
Along the Peruvian coast. the great
mounds of bird lime. or commercial
guano. showed UP like enormous
cleaning rocks AS VIC ncarcd Chile
there appeared streaks and patches of
what looked like snow. This was salt
peter. the beginnings OF the wonderful
nitrate deposits which is Chilc's great
est asset and source OF wealth. An
other OF tho contrasts which charac-
terize this country is the fact that
Peru and Chile furnish half the world
with fertilizer and are yet, in these
parts. barren of even 4 blade of grass.
My port OF landing. Antofagasta. is
second only to that of Valparaiso. stu
atcd about the middle OF this great
Atacama desert. and just outside OF the
Trop:c of Capricorn. It is a thriving
town OF many foreigners. especially
English. and owes its Importance to the
dustrics. Here. as elsewhere. all down
the West Coast. the buildings are OF
ono or two stories only. When one
naturally asks about earthquakes. tho
denial is prompt and decisive. This is
something like some OF our own coast
counties when TO tho question. DO you
have chills in G-?" we get the quick
reply. NO. indeed. but across the river
i'll M they arc very bad"
Ntnn0yy-E4 IrcJSp AEI.Arn
BEST RAILROAD IN CHILE
From AEtofaSasta there winds slow
~ upward the Fcrrocarril (railway) de
Autobiography Bolivia. a uarrow-gauEed
affair which Is yet the best railroad in
chile. IL passes rHany nitrate oficinas.
nearly all CT which are owned and op-
Grated by either Germans or English.
The whols OF Chile seems to have been
exploited by Germans until very re-
many idle German ships Tho all-day
trip from AntofaEasta to Calama, =
distance OF about 100 miles. is through
the barcst desert imaginable. and yet
fun OF certain charm. due to the out
lines OF tho hills, the exquisite colors.
and finally the view OF the snow-capped
Andes The effects OF the tropical sun
light arc very wonderful. and wholly
unlike anything have ever seen. This
TO distant views a color and tone that
cannot be translated irto words. Mi
rage effects are frequent always giving
the appearance o. the sea or OF islanded
lakes.
Caiama. at an elevation Of 1000
feet. is an oasis in tho desert snall
adobe town little moro than 1000
feet below ChuQuicamata is yet in full
sight o. this camp. and boasts some
tho River Loa. Here every one speaks
OF The Rio Loa" as
We might OF tho Mississippi. which is
another Chilean contrast. for this
lordly stream Is about the size and
OF Shockoe Creek. AT
Calama travellers going 10 "Chuqui"
usually spend the night and take tho
but twelve miles. but. with climb OF
over 1000 fcc,, II takes nearly three
hours TO make the trip.
one is almost blinded BIZ the trop-
cal sun on these heights, but. sin |
rularly enough, one never seems 10
get too much OF Il, and when an occa-
tonal cloud obscurcs the sun there is
A. once a chill in the air and a sense
x personal injury. Despite all sorts
y stories of tho evil effects OF this
altitude. of tho so-oche or mountain .
tickncsS" that is said II lie in wait
'or tho newcomer. experienced no
observable reaction then or since +
The clear. thin atmosphere is like the
zone in the air after an April shower .
= bright thawinS day in February
Se dust II very trying. and the wind .
lows almost necessarily III tho after !
Don. but the sou!-sat!sf.inE views In .
: s,c"c- direction one happens TO look /
-o-e than atone for these discomforts.
= evening comes on the light brings
y: I'll sorts OF colcrs. and just before
IL sun disappears the pampa and
79-~ distant mountain peaks are
afa'd IN q rosy mist tina; is very
cau.!:uI n effect:
OPPER uEpnSI1>S SI,IrI~If-1rHr,