davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

NANSo
cze w uszach naszych wzniosle
i idealne hasia nasze narodoWe,
slowie, a co innego w czynle jest
wszyscy glosza; hasla tie, tax
wzniosle i piekne, re gdyby byly
tax .czesto ~praktyce, jak So w
teoryi, zmieniiyby bez watplenla
caly porzadek rzeczy o wiele nd
lepszy. Niestety, co innego W
slowie, a'co innego w czynle jest
Il mas
Z posr6d wielu tych hase}, kto
najpiekniejsze, a mianowlcle
bog i Ojczyzna" alBo Ia VIA
re i Ojczyzne." To wzniosle ha-
slo, gdyby tax czesto bylo w
czynie, jak jest ma ustach, gdyby
ono bylo ia igla magnesowa ma
drodze naszego zycia, zapewnlio-
by nam szczeScie w TEN zyciu
W przysz}em. va Wiare o.
czyzne". Jest wprawdzie wlele
jednostek w spoleczeistwie ma
SEEN, W ktorych wiara jest zy-
wa, - wedlug niej zyja i poste-
pujq, ! CT zapewne dobrze ma tenn
wyjda TAX "a zycia, jak i po Smier
81. Ale oprocz tych, So ~jeszcze
pomiedzy Mani jednostki. i to
dose pokazna ich liczba, ktore o
Boga, o Wiare no i o Ojczyzne
wcale sic ME ~troszcza.
Me MONA o Mich powiedzt.'
wprawdzie, zeby widIry zadneJ
ME mieli, lub ME dbali O Ojczy-
zne zupelnie, ale tie ich dazenia,
tax religijne, jak i patryotyczne
sa bardzo powolne f>nlwe;
Jest to lud wierzacy niby, ale ME
praktykujacy tel WARY tax Jak
powinien.
Wiara wlaSnie sprawiia, zeS-
my ME zgineli jake narod Z po-
wierzchni ziemi wraz z upad-
klein naszego pahstwa, pomtmo
wiekowej niedoli i rozproszenia
20 ca1ym Swiecie, jezeli tax via
"a nasza silna i zywotna bedzle,
to chocby nam przyszlo i drugl
wick tulac sic bez Ojczyzny, ME
utracimy narodowoSci swojeJ'
Wiara nasza W Bogu byla i jest
tenn liSciem aloesu, 20 czem pisal
nasz wieszcz J. Slowacki,) ktory
~potrafif przechowac SERGE marc
lu Cd zamarcia i zepsuciu przez
tax diugi czas Wiec badzmy
pewni, re jak ia Wiara swleta
tax dlugo mas utrzyma}a, tax tn
Wiara silna w Bogu przywrocic
am zdola utracona Ojczyzne.
Jezeli gdzie, to tn W Amcryce
many przyklady lie ia wiara
wposrod mas zdzialala, pomimo te-
go, zesmy otoczeni obcymi zywio
lami re wszystkich stron, zy-
wiolami czesto wrogimi, jednak
pomimo tego, ME straciliSmy ma
rodowoSci swojej chociaz w ia
kich warunkach przebywamy juz
przeszlo polowe wicku. Vice
komu many to zawdzieczac, Jak
ME ~naszej wierze, w ktorej wy
chowani schroniliSmy sic tn pod
jej opiekuhcze skrzydia koScio-
low ! szk6f, ktoresmy wzniesli
tn wlasnymi trudami i mozo}em.
Ko5cioly i szkoly nasze, So jake
by fortece WARY i. narodowoSci
naszej, W ktorych przebywajac
mozemy bye pewni, &c laden
wr6g mas ME zwyciezy'
Jednym wiec Z obowiazkow,
wyplywajacych Z hasla Ia VIA
re i Ojczyzne" powinno bye pod
trzymywanie zawsze tych
twierdz naszych, DO w przeciw7
nym razie chociaz bysmy o.
trzyma1i wolnoSc i niepodlegfosc
n~aszej Ojczyzny i odbudowall
- -.SJ~r, 70
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

9 DZ1ENNIK CH1CAaoSKI samis-
pscza wieceJ drobnyeh ~ogioszeh. AMI
tell wszystkie inne dzienniki Dolskis
- Chicago rAzem WzietA
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

Tutaj Jest sposobnosc ola kazdego Amerykanina - ola mezczyzn I
koblet, miodych starych bez wzgedu skad pochodza - przyst z pomo-
ca Wujowi Samowi.
Many woluntaryuszy, kt6rzy pomagaja am sprzedawat Znaczk
Oszczednosciowe (Thrft samps) W waszej okoHcy. Many take Gala IL
ste ms5czyzn kobiet, kt6rzy So zdolni wygiaszat pubhczne moWy. Chwil-
ka czasu tylko z wanej suony pomoze nam wielce, - jeden wiecz6r W
tygodntu, tedno popofudnie ao wieczor W niedziee. Kazda chWla CA
81 jaka mozecie poswecit, dopomoze wele.
Ka4dy znaczek jaN sprzedacie bedzie gwozdzkiem do trumny, ktora
Ameryka pzygotowuje ola Wlhelma, o n napewno potrzebuje trumne
dukych rozmtarow - a gwozdzie kt6re utyjemy do nej, zobia, re on
chyba wiecej ME powroc.
Wiec wypelnijce SVEN nazwhskiem ten kupon u dou naznaczcie
dzieh abo wteczor W ktorym chcece przyczync sic do dobre1 spra~y'
posnjcie do Mrs. NJ. L. Plaum, War Savings Committee, 4o3 Conway
Building.
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

toczyi ~prelegent z wielkiem pre-
konaniem, z wiekszym bodai jed
max naciskiem mowii o powodach
politycznych, ola ktorych odbu--
dowanie Polski jest dis koniecz-
-noScia: Sprawl Polski jest spra-
wa caiej Europy; trzeba zlamac
potege militaryzmu pruskiego,
trzeba ma wschodzie Cd Niemiec
~postawic Pahstwo polskie, ktore-
by tamowalo pochod zwycieski
niemczyzny; Panstwo Polskie
nsusi mice wszystkie warunki
wszechstronnego rozwoju, a
wSrod tych warurk6w najwaz-
niejszym jest wolny dostep do
mora. Gdansk slusznie sic Pol
see nalezy i powinien jej bye da-
ny; Polska wraz z Rumunia sta
nowiiaby pomost miedzy morza-
mi Baityckiem i Carmen; Pol
ska W przymierzu z Czechami,
kt6re przez Polske moga otrzy--
mac dostep do mora, bylaby ME
przebyta zapora ola posuwajacej
sic ku wschodowi niemczyzny.
Ola tego, by w Europe zapano-
wala prawdziwa wolnoSc, by pc.
koj byl trwaly, by MONA bylo
przebudowac Europe ma zasadach
acknowledgement - trzeba odbu-
dowac Polske.
TAX gromadzi} rzecznik ow ma
szej sprawy z zapaiem i znajomo-
Scia rzeczy argumenty wobec slu-
chajacej uwaznie / raz Pc raz
przerywajqcej mu brawami publ
cznoSci.
Hyndman, cziek juz sedziwy,
zaczaf swoja karyere publicysty-
czna jake correspondent Pail
Mall Gazette" w Tyrolu, gdy wal
cyl Z Austryakami Garibaldi
znai wielkich tworcow odrodze--
MIA Wloch i ma zywo w pamieci
te easy wielkiego porywu naro-
dowego we WloSzech: ,,Widzia-
lem Wlochy pred zjednoczeniem
- by}y w gorszem pofozeniu niz
dis Polska; teraz nadszedi wasz
czas! - powiedzial PREY kohcu
odczytu.
To powiazanie chwili obecnej Z
wypadkami tylu dziesiqtkow lat
we w~spomnieniach czlowieka,
przezyi caly wielki okres
iziej0w Europy, przcja6 musialo
SERGE kazdego wzruszeniem. Idea
narodowa, ktora przetworzyla w
XIX wieku Europe zachod-
MIA, dis zwycieza w Europe
wcc!;odniej, a pierwszem jej ivy
ciestwem must bye odbudowanie
Polski. Idea ia ma wrog6w, odez-
wall sic, choc nieSmiaio, gdy pc
odczycie odbyla sic krotka dysku-
sya; czytamy o tenn W korespon-
londyhskich; glosy tie
icdnak mic znalaziy uznania
obecnych ma sail Polakow,
<t6rzy w goracych slowach DIG
kowali prelegcntowi "a odczyt, a
znakomitemu ucZOriemu Sir
Frazerowi "a przewodni--
genie i "a dany przezeii w zaga-
jeniu wyraz WARY w P,olske w
jej p~rzyszloSc.
-
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

zone / wciaz So glossy, ~wyrazajacc
mozliwosc zerwania z~wlaszcza, IL
W Austryi dose jasno i g}osno do
magaja sic tego zerwania Judy au-
stryackie, ME chcace hegemonii
niemieckiej - pruskiej.
- z Niemiec donosza, il mai
prawdopodobniej w najblizszej
przyszlosci p6jdzie W odstawks
tamtejszy minister spraw zagra--
nicznych, DIR. Kuehlmann, mozli--
VEN jest, IL nastepca jego bedzie
dotychczasowy minister zastepca,
DIR. Helflerich.
IRLANDYI.
Dublin, %. kwietnia. - Wszv.
stkie urzedy rzadowe w Dublinic,
w Cork, oraz pc innych miastacll
irlandzkich So SLIME strzezonc
przez wojska, w obawic rozru-
chow z}aczonych &c sprawl IT,
chwalonego ostatnio w parliament
Gle i juz jake uchwaia o~gioszonc-
go poboru rekruta w Irlandyi. w
kraju tysiace przynalcz-
nych do rozmaitych partyi i or
ganizacyi irlandzkich oSwiadeza-
jq ma zebraniach / w rczolGcyacf,
IL do ostatka temu poborowi sprzc
ciwiac sig beda.
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22
I V 0jNY!

(Dokonczenie re strongly 81.
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

1897 rokl
Dziennik Chicagoski. [volume] (Chicago [Ill.]) 1890-1971, 1918-04-22

- AA"oS
pomimo wszystkiego, jezeli ME
bedzie on zbudoWany ne funda-
mentach WARY - stoczy sic z
powrotem w ruine.
Pomimo tax silnych dowodow,
wykazujacych nam, gdzie jest ma
sza si}a, zywothoSt i ~przysz}osc
narodowa, jest wielu niestety ro-
dak6w, ktorzy od}aczaja sic cd
tel jednosci, pomimo tego, Re
maja koscioly polskie, katolickie
W poblizu, oni VIOLA uczeszczac
do koscio}ow obconarodowych.
Inni postepujs daleko gorzej,
DO ME dosyc, re sami przestali
chodzic juz do koScio}a, ale
dzieci swoje posyfaja do szkof
bezwyznaniowych, obconarodo-
wych, gdzie ME maja sposobno-
sci nauczyc sic religii, jezyka
polskiego, ami dziej6w ojczy-
stych. o tych MONA powie-
dziet, ze'juz straceni ola naszej
narodowoSci, DO odstapili Cd te-
90 przewodniego hasla, ktore ka-
re nam mice "a p~rzewodnie zy-
cia, Wiare i Ojczyzne' KAPPA
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04

wives and children Of our soldiers swell
the numbers Of those needing hospital
care.
An increasing number Of small towna
report no physician remaining at home
TO care for the people.
In my office at the Woman's Medical
College, an institution to which the
public naturally turns for women physi-
clans, ! receive daily calls for women
TO m these vacancies.
The war viii not soon he over and
the situation will not he relieved as
long aq the war continues The stress
will be greater year by year as our
increasing National Army requires q
continually larger number of medical
officers. and some of these officers will
not return when the war is over The
young men now in the medical schools
are not training to care for the civ':
population. They are already members
of the medical enlisted reserve corps,
military officers i'm the making.
We women, college women. must rise
10 meet this emergency. -Four wears
hence, when the stress has multiplied
many times, shall we be ready to send
forth hundreds Of graduated physicians
to fill the need, thousands of nurses
newly prepared for their sacred task?
w must libN wait ana again lP over
whelmed with remorse over our unpre-
parcdneSs.
Englishwomen have learned their les
son, and this last winter 400 women stu
dents Of medicine are making ready I'm
London, where only 100 were registered
before the war. Special funds and
scholarships have been established 10
make it possible for women not hnan-
cialy equipped to do so to take up the
study.
At the Womans Medical College ap-
proNimately thirty women are applying
for entrance next fan. There should be
100 OF these, eight cannot enter upon
their medical work without financial
help. 1t requires only $500 to pay the
fees Of medical student through her
four years OF college or 5000 to finance
her for one year. For lack of these
comparatively small sums shall these
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04
History and Romance

THE Unwilling Nestal' is an uncom-
monty different sort Of historic romance.
In fact. ii is a novel Of characterization
and realism, as we know this pe,rather
than romance of ancient Rome OF the
kind written by lIbers, Eckhardt, canon
Farrar and Cardinal Wiseman, While
It has not the thrill of Sienkiewicz's
QUO Nadis?" II has the sense Of reality
of that book, but to more intimate
degree. "The Unwilling Nestar Is as
IL some Robert w. Chambers or Owen
johnson Of imperial Rome In the Aurel-
ian period had written novel OF con-
temporaneous character
Edward Lucas White did a notable
piece of historic reconstruction in nc
tIonal form In his South American novel,
"El supreme" He follows the same
method In this new book. The Smart
ser' of latter-day imperial Rome ls
shown in lifelike action. The persons of
the drama are not puppets moved by
strings by an author much more inter-
ested in his history than in his fiction.
The Romans were interested in horse
racing they talked in slang-Petronius
Arbiter's "Cena Trimalchionis,' OF
course. showed this--and they had the
ioie de vivre highly developed. Mr.
white interprets breathing, pulsating
Romans. one of his characters slut
ters
Yet the book is Informative in fact as
we'll as interesting in story. The author
has made considerable research into the
period of Marcus Aurelius and into the
history of the Vestal Virgins. and all
the gathered information is incorpor-
aTed into his story-but never obtrusive-
ly He is fortified with statistics and
authorities for all his statements. His
book is different and piquant.
THE UNWILLING VEsTAL. By Edward
Lucas White, New hork' r. r. Duttoh
q Co. $3.50.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04
Camp Meade Wants Bulldog

10 the Editor Of Womdn's Page:
Dear Madam am writing in response
to the inciosed note. and assure you that
the pet would have good home
J arn a soldier lad at Camp Meade Nd.
and we've been looking for good dog for
mascot for quite a while, ] would take
good care of II. for am fond Of animals,
having a EOod black mount which l ride
N11ued TO me by the GOvernmenD.
We are the Ammunition Train 3O4th
Company E. and have good number Of
horses IN our company. which is Caisson
one, hsuiing ammunition to the front when
Kindly write and let me know about our
mascot. for m sure you're going 70 let US
have him. JOHN z. WANAMAkER.
Corporal. Company e. sO4th Ammunition
Train.
The above letter and some nineteen
others were forwarded in varied lots to
M s.. the young lady who is the Gus
todian OF the bulldog. Unfortunately
Company Els letter did not come first. of
course. all other comers will be willing
TO step aside and let the soldier boys
have what they want. SO perhaps II the
dog is already given away the lucky
reader will want to pass 1t on to Uncle
Sam II not. then all our readers will
shortly be asked to go on hunts for bull
dogs Nothing is too much or too good
for our boys We apologize to the soldier
boy for printing his letter. but 1t was
too nice and straightforward to keep to
rourself''
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04
Answers Distressed

DISTRESSED-It is a little difficult
to advise you. my dear because you
see ! do not know your parents reasons
for not liking the young man in ques-
ton There seems to be no reason why
he should 20 into your store three times
day unless he is attracted to you, and
II he is engaged to another girl he should
not do this. If he must buy things in
your place every day II would seem as
well for him TO do so all at one time
There Is no actual harm in his doing
so, but Il makes persons talk, and young
girls can never afford to have rumors
and gossip spread about them. It SCENE
rather a mistake not to have boy or men
friends and not 10 20 out and around
with them. Your parents may have
some very good reason why they do no.
want you to do so, but under ordinary
conditions it is not wise. Young persons
are meant TO meet and be sensible
friends, and II men and girls do not get
to know a good many of their own age
they VIII be apt to marry the first one
who comes along, just to get out of being
held in, and have unhappS lives in con-
sequence.
If you could find a thoroughly re-
spectacle place TO board and could gain
your parents consent, / would advise
the position in the city, but not without
your parents consent while you are
under age, Parents usually have good
reasons for their mandates, and II Is a
wise girl who listens to her father ami
mother. She will not be apt to regre.
it, II can help you in any other way
be sure to call on me.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04

Fiske in Popular Form

one Of the most encouraging indica-
tions that the nation is awakening to the
necessity Of understanding something
about the necessity of maintaining a
great navy is found in the fact that the
publishers have found It necessary 20
issue new and popular edition Of Rear
Admiral Bradley A. Fiske's excellent
handbook, The Navy as a Fighting
Machine" The first expensive edition
appeared in october, 1916. II was re-
printed In March Of the next year, and
the Conference Committee on Prepared
ness presented a copy to each OF the
United States Senators and Representa-
tlves. The second edition at a reduced
price Is just from the press, Admiral
Fiske sets out to answer three questions:
What is a navy for? OF what parts
should it be composed? What principles
should be followed In designing, prepar-
ing and operating It in order to get the
maximum return for the money ex-
pended? He answers these questions In
plain language so that the average man
can understand him.
THE NAVY AS A FIGHTING MACHINE.
BY Rear Admiral Bradley A. Fiske. u. s.
y. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04
NNoNtNSINA&N
WOMEN PHYSICIANS GOING
ABROAD FOR WAR SERVICE
Dr. Alice " eId Tadn and DR.. Mary Getty Both oman
Hospital Staff, AnsrUer Special Call From French
Military authorities

IN SPITE. Of the fact that the United
L States Government will give no recog-
milton whatsoever to woman physicians
in the United States army, four promi-
nent women physicians are to sail next
Wednesday for civilian service in
France.
Two Of the four patriotic women are
FhilRdelphans from the Womans Hos
pital, Twentieth street and North COL
lege avenue. They are Dr. Alice Weld
Tallant. professor of obstetrics at the
hospital and member of the Smith Col
lege Unit which was recently driven
from its place near Amiens and Dr.
Mary Getty, eye specialist and professor
at the Woman's Hospital. one of the
other two comes from Bangor, Me, the
other from Denver, Col.
Doctor Tallant, a graduate of Johns
Hopkins Medical School and of Smith
College, has been "A professor at the
Woman's College for thirteen years.
Doctor Getty, who graduated from the
Woman's College in 1890, spent several
years IN India as a medical missionary.
She spent the last year i'm general prac-
tice in the Woman's Hospital prepara
tory to the varied calls which win be
made upon her In French reclamation
or hospital work.
The women are going because of a
special request from France for work
among the sixty villages turned over to
MISS Anne Morgan by the French Gov
ernment They will be under the Amcrl-
can committee 70" devastated France,
The women physicians probably will be
located in southeast France, near Sois-
sons, according to Doctor Tallant
Great Indignation has been relt for
some time among American women be-
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04

cause American women physicians are
not given commissions by the Govern
ment as are the men. The only way a
woman physician can so abroad under
the Government Is as a nurse. She
could not give an order to an inferno or
orderly in her own hospital,
The women physicians who have thus
far gone to France have gone with the
Red Cross under the jurisdiction of
which the American Woman's Hospitals
Association has gone, or under the
Woman's Overseas Hospital Unit. organ
lied by the woman suffragists and COM
missioned by the French Government,
according to DR.. Kate w. Baldwin. Elev-
enth and Spruce streets.
EARLY in the war the hard.pressed
French got over their prejudlces against
women physicians" says Doctor Bald
win. "The English were much slower.
1t is said that group OF London women
physicians, having been rejected by the
English Government, established a hos
pital in France under the French.
"A major general one day discovered
Tommies who were said to have been
treated by women. Horrible! And the
matter was investigated at once. The
Tommies admitted that they had been
treated by women" went on Doctor
Baldwin.
That must not be allowed" said
he. English soldiers deserve men physi-
clans
Just wait a bit, general they said.
We have been treated In both mems
and women's hospitals, and IL ever we
are wounded again we pray to be taken
to the womens hospital So the matter
was investigated and the women were
commandeered for the English Govern
ment."
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04

Dean Of the Womaufs Medical College OF
Pennsylvania.
.NTTE ARE reading much these days Of
w women and war The developing
spirit Of team WORK merits our respect
and admiration From the preparation
of surgical dressings by Red Cross work
ers TO the increasing enrolment OF wom-
en- in munitioH industries, there is indi-
Gated gratifying readiness to help the
nation in its hour Of need
These activities, however. involve
work which can be done without special
training, or by those who can acquire
in a few weeks the facility needed
] am oppressed by a growing and
painful sense of the unwillingncss Of
educated women, college women. to un-
dertake work for their country which
involves long-Continued effort. daily sac
rifce, a giving of service fully and COM
pletely to the end Of the war and there
after.
That is what our brothers are doing
enlisting for the duration Of the war
giving up all home ties and ambitions.
working to thN limit of endurance In the
training. or by those who can acquire
risk all to win safety and freedom for
future generations. Can it he that we
are less willing?
Some women have, indeed. risen with
equal patriotism to play their parts. 7
salute those valiant souls. who are even
now just behind the firing line the few
women physicians working tirclessly,
though without the sustaining sense Of
Government recognition which is aC-
corded to their brothers; the nurses
hcroines serving to the death, with
none Of the satisfying sense Of oneness
with the National Army. which we'll
deserved rank and title would give; the
workers in the canteens, whose daily
word Of cheer means SO much to the
boys in khaki These are giving their
all as are the fighting men.
| honor those women physicians and
nurses, who, longing to be at the front,
yet bear double burdens "over herr"
that the few may go,
But | think with an unanswered ques-
tion In my heart of the women at home
with the intellectual training already
acquired, who ought to be preparing to
Ill the depleted ranks Of physicians and
nurses and are not doing 80. "A four
years' training is so long" they cry.
we want to serve now" And they
let the smaller present opportunity con-
ceal the future field immeasurably
wider.
The surgeon general calls for 1000
more physicians at once; tho Red Cross
cries for thousands Of trained nurses
They will be found, but at the expense
of the home communities.
At this moment the hospitals in this
city lack by so per cent the normal
staff Of resident doctors. the shortage Of
nurses is serious. and dspensarIes have
been closed. Yet the wards are more
and more crowded with patients, and the
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-05-04

THE new shoe shows more decided
i change from last years fashions
than any other part Of women's attire,
Not only does this seasons footwear
have an entirely different last from that
worn previously, but the choice in colors
is unlike the favored selections for sew
eral years past.
II a ballot were taken on the various
styles, the oxford tie would, without
doubt, be very much in the lead for
popularity. for about eight out of ten
women one meets on Fifth avenue wear
the oxford tie. The oolors are the vari-
Gus shades OF tan, browns or black
either the dull black or the patent
leather The toes Of these oXfords are
sharply pointed and the vamps long. In
fact, the long vamps and the pointed
tips are the features which mark the
change in this years boots.
For the street suit or for morning
wear the oxfords are usually chosen
with a Cuban heel. and for wear with
the afternoon frock the French heel is
preferred.
The next most popular shoe is the
pump. either in patent leather or dull