Arizona republican., 1918-10-04
MOMENTS HATS ARE
 MORE STANDARDIZED

Bumor had it last spring that women prominent in society and club work had pledged themselves. as an example to the women Of tho nation. not 10 buy summer hats, giving the money thus saved to war funds. The women them selves disclaimed any such stand by Tisorous denial and by proceeding 10 buy-veu. almost their usual supply of summer millinery. These women felf, after due thought and deliberation. that such an action would have far from a good effect on industry. because it would in no way help tO keep business Cofnr So about tho only changes one actually sees this fall are leaning to- ward more uniformity in shape and a now simplicity that is the acme of smartncss and elegance.
 Costumes will depend upon millinery for the bright spots. The sombroness which Characterizcs the suits and coats will find relief in the accentuated tones of hcadgcar Not that we will 0Vcrtutn the festive dyepots in search for hectic combination. far from it. But VIC will see the tsupc or brown dar- inry topped by hat Of orange chenille braid; navy suits with chapeaux of soldat blue. black with dead white, or Wi'h colorcd fantasies. Bags to match ITO frequently seen with some of the now hats. and the two high spots of color carry out the new effect and ere atc a distinctive appearance. Velvet. duveiyn. plush. felt and georgette are favored materials. and the prominent roiore include several shades of blue. Dcicc volga green. taupc and brown; and of course purple hats are inescap- able for early fall wear.
 Since the government has officially recognized a number of uniforms for women who are in various branches of tho service. it is a natural result that hats should be created 10 complete the costume Designers nave given this phase most careful consideration. in or. der that they may possess style, com Fort and hecomngness. and yet answer thc purpose for which they arc intend cd. Tho shapes are being standardized. and tho sale of them will be limited to those whose business and privilege it is io wear them.
 Toqucs. toques everywhere. and not another shape can be said to be so natty or SO universally becoming. With topcoat or suit the closefitting toque with a veil creates 4 result of smart ness.
 Feathers, particularly ostrich in all It's forms. will be greatly in demand. Somebody once said that to make an article popular one had but to make it hard to get. So owing to it's scarcity, we will all long for ostrich and conse- ouently go a-hunting in all the attic hst boxes for the discarded plumes and bands we wore yeers ago. Ostrich famine may be accounted for by the Tact that it is considered a non- essen - tial. and the shipping of it has been cur tailed to such an extent that it isn't shipped at all to speak of So we arc depending on the stocks already on hand. and when they are exhausted we hic us over to a renovating shop. to have our willows" and bedraggled plumcs done over in the new fashion Siycerined. burnt, stripped or otherwise punished 10 fit the crime.
 An unusually stunning hat of black malinos has a tall squared crown com posed of white velvet hyacinths placed very close together. A carelessy ar ranged band and bow Of gold ribbon completes the base of the crown, and Inc ends wander along the right side of thc dropping brim.
 For an afternoon wedding I have in
 
 a tiny. rolled brim. and an upstanding hand of tall. slim ostrich tips, shading from brown to deep cream. and held close to the crown by a narrow strip of brown crosgrain angle.
 \ hat which would do justice to and service for several occasions has a orown of duvetyn in the pale grey, with "a whirl of uncurled grey astrich on the r=ht side. The brim which turns uu sharply off the place all round, is of finely pleated blue silk. This would be particularly charming for blonde.
 \ set developed in brown and yellow is composed of a cape of gold broad cloth with a deep roll collar and a hem band of beaver; and the hat is simply wide band of the fur With a soft tan crown of broadcloth and a cabochon of plcated ribbon.
 hattcr's plush shape with a round crown and a narrow brim rolled on the sides. has a dashing plume arranged cavalier fashion on the right
 cupped down street hat of black velvet has its cuff-like edge of maline. applied with black soutache. This i. ono Of tho best styles I have seen thi. fan
 Noils will be of 57 varieties. but the, viii be more conservative than thos, of tho summer. Some of those flowing fads were worn. but they were never adopted by the best dressed women They attracted too much attention. anC almost invariably they gave one dampened appearance. which was un fortunate. considering how much de ponds these days on our looking, a! well as fleeing. on the que vivs> ever, minute. Wells of Shetland wool are il rood form, and they will be worn con stan;ly, even with large hats. Chantill,