Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-01-24
Many Changes Noted Since
Advent of Blue-Clad Poilus
and Khaki-Wearing Sammees
ALIVE WITH MOVEMENT
Only at Night Does Quaint City
Return to its Former Som
nolent Condition
BY HENRI BAZIN
stan Correspondent EUcHir0 Public LCdDc.
tCith the american ATdiy IN France


ferees, because l know France through
years of intimate association, whereas
their contact Is but one Of khaki and
gun and preparation for war
The little city is quaint and ancient,
placed amid the most picturesque sur
roundings, standing upon an elevation
overlooking valleys and n winding white
ribbon of river. Before the war as
remember II upon n visit years ago. II
was a typically French provincial town.
ifs few streets lined with occasional little
shops, its two age-worn churches filled
with living devotees OF the faith and
centuries-old tombs under the very floors
Of the apse and transept. 1t had but
ono hotel where the advent Of half a
dozen guests was an event, and where
the table d'hote was Of genuine quality.
All this has changed, save in the dual
case Of devotees in the two churches
and the ancient tombs. The last remain
az they will always while the town lives.
The first have increased in number, be-
ing now full so per cent, men in uniform.
the blue-clad poilu of France and the
khak-clad Sammee from over the sea.
At almost any hour Of the day one can
md amid the very old inhabitants the
soldiers of two Allied nations at prayer.
HOTEL CHANGES FOR WORSE
The hotel has changed. too-and alas
for the worse. The dining room serves
the deJCuner and the diner in three and
four shifts, mostly due to influx of
American soldiers and officers, the
former because he feels that with his
pay he Is able to give himself the
novelty of French hotel meal and the
latter because he is perforce often "de
passage" passing through and stops off
for a meal AS result neither gets
that which his hopes may have founded
through ancient tales of delicious French
cooking, and both pay just 100 per cent
more for inferior food, more hastily pre-
pared than even year ago. when khaki
was an unknown quantity. Those who
know the old days just sigh and use a
cuss word, except II they are French,
when they disturb the atmosphere with
gesticulations and make it n point to
stop at the little city's one hotel as
short time as their business will per-
nit.
And the shops one vino knew them
would not recognize them They have
mushroomed out into quite pretent'ous
AFFAIRS full of gimcr racks that nobody
on earth but soldier with more money
than Is quite good for him would buy.
Things that have little usefulness about
them even when their form and usage
so pretend. "Camelote," the French
would classify them meaning, and that
with a vengeance, merchandise of an
inferior character And as to price, it's
No. /, copper-bottomed.
SLEEPY STREETS TRANSFORMED
I The sleepy streets Of old are alive with
movement, Not minut, passes during
the day but that a canton, or an Amer
lean auto truck, or a four-mule army
wagon, or American and French auto
q tNfrla
there At every corner traffic is CON
trolled by American military police
armed with revolver and a regular DO
liceman's billy Troops are going and
coming, passing on to training fields OF
coming home after a days w'ntry hike
And French troops are constantly on
the move, quite often nondescript In
character, because the little city has
become one Of the many points I'm France
behind the lines where pollus, who have
been in hospitals and found after re-
covery from wounds or illness fit TO re.
turn TO the fight. are re-equipped fol
the joining OF their various regiments
Every morning at 6 O'Clock, long be
fore daylight, there pass beneath tho
window of my room several hundred a
times a thousand, soldiers of France
mostly past the age OF youth, but garbeC
IN new uniforms, wearing new helmets
and carrying new or partly new equip
ment. They are bound for a not too far
distant railroad station to do theii
second or third Bit" and many will never
return from the dong
Al in the evening all lights in tn,
little city are screened against Boche all
raids, and at s. save for an occasona
Sraggler, the streets are quiet as a tomb
From overhead one could not locate til,
city at all, and that's the reason why
OnlX nOliCaO1pn pf
correspondents are abroad and any o
these are liable TO challenge from tht
other for the display Of a pass.
TWO PROFESSIONS
Typical of the change that has com,
over the little city is the story of tw,
army bands that passed a few minute
apart today under the window befor
which ! write.
The first was playing a funeral diTge
an officer chaplain following il, and be
hind him an American ambulance con
tanning the body of q soldier who hat
died Of natural causes. Beside the am
bulance walked. four 70 side. his com
rade pallbearers. Behind them the deaf
mans company, without arms save
nring squad at their head.
Here was all that was mortal of
khaki-clad boy who crossed the sea il
strength and Vigor and died unromanti
and yet who died for his country as trul.
as IL he had fallen in battle. As tn
cortege passed everybody gave the salut
TO the dead. the rank and file On tn
pavements and sidewalks standing a
respectful attitude. while civilians too
on their hats and women made the sig
or the cross.
Within three minutes and with tn
sound of the funeral march still TO b
heard in the distance, other music strucl
my ears coming down a cross street
II was the "Sambre ct Meuse," tn
most Inspiring march ever. coming fron
the elghty-odd pieces. including drum
and bugles, of n French army band
colonel. with the Cross Of the Legio
upon his breast. rode first. and behin
MN full regiment of French infantry
stepping 1876 a minute. Every man wa
loaded for boches, company after com
pany swinging past and machine gun
rafting, while the Tricolor flew anon
them. At its passing, again a salut
from all who looked on. the same salut
from male civilian and military ma
az was given the dead just a little be
Tore, but quite different nevertheless
since Il typlhed pride and not sadness
AS the regiment passed and returne
TO my typewriter, / thought Of destin
ana how II plays its part IN the affair
ot men that among the living compan
o. khakl-clad Samees, who had but
tlfhe OF time before passed behind
nead comrade, many were destined I
tne same fate as these blithesome-steI
phg sops Of France-to die on the bal