davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09
FASHION FLASHLIGHTS

Chanctte embroidery Is Il favored
Ornamentation for Palm Beach suits.
Smart wraps are actually being made
of jersey cloth.
Rather stiff ornaments are used on
the new millinery.
Dull and brilliant black are COM
bincd in smart frocks.
Polnsettia scarlet Is one of the
shades used for children.
II Is to be Il season OF sport clothes
for young women.
Pompadour silks for evening are
made up with tight skirts.
Drapery seems to be the order of the
latest spring fashions.
There II IN epidemic of waistcoats.
Pique, brOche, tussah or satin may be
the fabric.
Foulards and silk ginghams are COM
ing Ia the front of the spring dress
ranks.
"Swat the brlm" appears to be the
slogan of the designers of spring MILL
merry.
Irvine Is used to form some rather
marvellous llorette decorations for sport
hats.
Remember the dotted swiss you wore
when little girl? You can wear 1t
again this year-the material, we
mean.
Paris reports the sudden popularity
of long chains of colored beads. The
rule Is twice around the neck and then
n couple of yards.
Straw knitting bags to match hats
are tagging along with the spring dress
items, but they are not likely to stimu-
late the circulation of femina.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09
WAIsTC0ATs SURE OF FAVOR
Garment Promises to Be Much Worn
This Spring, Adding to the Ward
robe Of Smart Women.

Wnistconts are surely to be much
worn this spring and an important ac-
cessory in the smart woman's ward.
robes, since the neckwear counters In
most shops show them in most tempt
ing cut and color.
The fact Is, notes fashion writer,
owing TO the wool shortage that makes
necessary n curtailing of the amount
of fabric In the wooden suit for spring,
the Elton coat and other types of short
coat are coming In with II vengeance.
And the waistcoat that extends below
the coat in front will help to piece out
this stubby little coat.
Clever women will find an excellent
way of remodellng last years suit by
shortening the coat-or having tailor
do so FOR them--ond Frightening 1t and
rejuyenating 1t by adding Il walstcoat.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09
SURPLICE JACKET A NEW ONE
Coat 10 Already In america, but France
10 Sending Over Various Appli-
cations Of the One Idea.

Cheruit is showing short Jackets
with fronts cut into long ends that
cross below the bust, slip through
slashes in the underarm seams and
come out again to tie ut the back. This
coat Is already in America, according
to fashion writer, but France is send.
ing over, later, dozen or more appli.
cations Of the one idea.
There are short zOuave jackets with
ends that do not go through any slashes
In the underarm seams, but frankly
form girdle and tie in fiat bow Mt
the back Of the waist. II this jacket Is
of dark blue serge or gaberdine, as It
frequently is, It has these ends tipped
with bright scarlet broadcloth or An
CORA cloth, to match the short, military
collar taken from the English uniform.
Angora cloth is used by France on
the best coat suits. A piece Of n time
worn sweater, for instance, would pro-
vide an attractive accessory on a new
suit under the ruling Of this law.
Girdles are made of this AngOra
cloth, as well as cuffs, and some short
coats are edged with band Of 1t. In
green, scarlet and blue, II Is exceed.
ingly popular.
Writing of sweaters, the newest one
brought from France Is made from
baby ribbon in bright cOlors. II Is the
top notch conservation sweater. Not
an inch Of worsted is used. France
has launched 1t as the successful nov.
city Of the season. and 1t bids fair to
catch the popular American taste, just
as did those knitted silk sweaters and
caps that were launched by Chanel In
Deauyille the summer before the war.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09

Millinery shops are radiant with joy
Gus Easter hats all proclaimng that
styles have taken q new tack and are
sailing In the direction of bright trim
mings and plenty of them. Flowers are
sprOuting all over some shapes. others
are fully covered with foliage. Ribbons
are nothing IL not abundant, made up
into all kinds of fanciful and beauti-
full garnitures and applied i'm novel
ways. Ornaments, after n long, par
tial eclipse, have emerged and are
given conspicuous place of honor In
the millinery armament.
This return to favor of millinery
trimmings comes as surprise, for
hats have been so meagerly ornament
ed for two seasons, that we were about
to pronounce the obsequies over those
lovely furbelOws-the flowers and
feathers and ribbons and laces and ev-
erything-that seemed to have Ian.
guishcd to the point Of death. There
is no telling what will come to pass
over night in the world Of millinery,
for here they are again. ready to form
joyous Easter parade proclaiming
the eternal feminine.
The three hats pictured are typical
styles. At the center Is a wide-brlm-
med model Of leghorn braid with Its
crown covered with crepe. Having
gone this far last year the crown
would consider nothing more expect
cd of It. But now Il Is first dotted
all over with beads and then It's auua-
city in the new style adds as many
tight roses of folded silk rs II can car
ry without concealing the beads. Rose
foliage lies In fiat wreath about the
brim. 1t Is one of the hats that trim
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09

mers class as belonging to the "bumpy"
style. Below, at the right poke bon.
net covered with crepe georgette. Is
faced with yedda braid. 1t has a long
sash of ribbon that wanders over the
crown and through slashes in the brim.
The ends loiter along their way, which
leads them half the length of the fig
ure. A cluster of cherries and leaves
are Joined to the shape with chenille
stitches that are disposed to divide at
tention with them.
The satin-covered shape at the left Is
the simplest of the three models. Ex-
cept for folds on the side-crown the
satin Is put on plain. But there Is
method in this madness, the hat Is
merely foil for large ornament Of
cut crystals-mock amethysts-set In
metal and elaborated with beads.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09

acteristic OF this season. Correspond
ing rows of braid, ending in buttons
are placed ON the sleeves. There Is q
shawl collar and an over.collGr OF
washable white satin.
In order to preserve the snug lines
about the waist this coat Is fastened
with three buttons Mt the front. There
are several ways OF arriving at this
closely fitted effect by means of in
genious cutting. They are novel but
not more successful than the simple
and direct methods shown In the pic
ture.
The style of the skirt in this suit
may be taken as criterion for the
season. 1t is straight-line model,
fitted about the hips, with waistllne
very slightly raised and It could hardly
he simpler. These are the ideals that
all skirt makers seem to have in mind
just now.
Fritz &''"1
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09
Wooden Mountings for Handbags.

Wooden mountings are the latest
thing In handbags. The whole frame
of the bag is made of wood finished In
n dull, unvarnished brown, and the
bags mounted In these frames are
made OF silk or velvet. Many interest
ing shapes are achieved by means of
carving the wood.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09

II this model is q sample Of the
next seasons trend In hats, II 10 pretty
certain that conservation Of materials
is not going to apply to hats. The de.
sieners don't care how large they make
their creations, and " all their results
will turn out as pretty as this charm
ing hat, few will wish to eurtail them.
Though designed for spring, this ex.
quisite hat lie Just the thing for those
who intend to spend the rest Of the
winter far below the Mason. Dixon line.
II 10 Of black and white wolfe, with
brim Of black straw.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-03-09
Color Harmony.

Have you ever set Il luncheon table
with lavender linen cloth, plain blue
china dishes and yellow tulips? Try 1t
The result will please you more than
the dead white 80 often used.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
AMERICAN SURGEONS
WIN PRAISE OF BRITISH
Delegation Here for Conven-
ton Praises U. S., Hos
pital Stats
An Atlantic Port. June l.

A delegation, representing the British
Medical Society has arrived here to at
tend the American Congress of Medi-
cal Societies, which will be held in Chi
cago on June 10. The delegation in
cludes Sir James Mackenzie. Sir Ar
buthnot Lane and Colonel Herbert A.
Bruce, consulting surgeon of the British
army in France.
The British surgeons will tell the
congress of their experiences in the war
,and of the problems to be met in dealing
with the wounded and the health of
armies
All three spoke in highest praise
Of the work of American surgeons and
nurses at the front.
Colonel Bruce reported that General
Sir Arthur sloggett. director general of
the British medical service. had dele
gated him ito tell the American people
how much he appreciated the wonderful
help which the American doctors and
nurses had given to the British i'll and
wounded" He was anxious" said
Colonel Bruce, "to give recognition to
the galiantry and heroism Of tive Amer
lean medical officers and nurses serving
at the front, and had recommended them
for honors, but a regulation of your
Government prevented their being ac-
cepted. Nothing that we can do is too
good for the American doctors and
nurses serving with us.
Your medical men have willingly
taken their places alongside our Off
GERS in positions of danger and have
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
AIR MAIL SERVICE
HAS NEW CHIEF
Captain C. A. Weidenfath,
From French Front, Re.
places Major R. H. Fleet
IMPROVEMENT PLANNED

To bring about improvement in the
aerial mail route between Washington.
Philadelphia and New York. and to OBJ
tain the advantage Of the experiences
with airpanes under war conditions
along the western front In France
Major r. H. Fleet, Of the signal corps
has been removed az head Of the service
and Captain c. A. Weidenbath, who has
seen three months service in France,
has been named TO succeed him.
Captain weidenbath. who has been
companion of Lieutenant Eddie" Rick
enbacher the former noted automobile
driver on the French front, is to h;N a
charge of the washington-to-New York
aerial mail service until It has been
developed to point where IL has been
declared practical and can be turned
over to successor.
The new head OF the airplane mail
service went overseas last year with
the first division of Americans He was
then private. but shortly after arrival
"over there" was transferred to the
aviation section. taking up flying Two
well-known American flyers, Lieutenant
Dudley. r. Campbell and Lieutenant
Rickenbacher who were also privates
when the first division went to Europe,
took up aviation, and they, with Weld
enbath, formed trio and were fast
friends.
Captain Weidenbath gained expert
practical knowledge of airplanes with
the forces over seas. and 1t is expected
that he will quickly develop the airpane
mail service to high point of eff
cheney.
Plans are under consideration by the
Post Office Department to change the
northern terminal Of the Washington
Philadelphia New York air mail route
from Belmont Park. Long Island. to
Branchbrook, near Newark, n. j. This
would facilitate the dispatch of mail to
the New York postoffice.
Alexander NJ. Dockery, Third Assist
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
JOHN REED HELD
AS RIOT INCITER
Socialist Orator Who De.
fed Police Under
$4,000 Bail
CAPTORS ROUGHLY USED

John Reed. Socialist lecturer and war
correspondent. and unofficial Bolshevik
consul-eeneral at New York was held
in $4,000 BAH by Magistrate Pennock in
Central station today, charged with
disorderly conduct and inciting to riot
William Kogerman. also of New York,
who says he Is shipyard worker, was
held on the same charge,
Both men were arrested last night at
Sixteenth and Thompson streets, where
a riot occurred after the police had
prevented Reed from making a speech.
Reed. when arraigned before Magis-
trate Pennock, denied any attempt to in
cite a riot. He declared he had re-
quested arrest II not allowed to speak.
Kogerman also denied melting riot, say
ing he was attacked by policemen.
Testimony of the detectives was to the
effect that Kogerman. throwing his hat
in the air had shouted:
Let's take him from the detectives
Claims wilson's Thanks
Reed told newspapermen, in an inter-
view. tina. he had personal letters from
President Wilson thanking him for re-
ports he had made to the President on
conditions existing in Mexico previous
to the trouble between United states
and Mexico
II am against the German Impe-
rial Government" Reed told his inter-
viewers.
He refused to make a statement as
to the probable effect OF inflammatory
speeches on the American people at this
time.
According to the testimony of De-
tective Letting. he went to Moose
Hall with other detectives a 4 found
about 900 persons there. The detectives
informed Reed he would not be per-
mitted to speak and he went to nearby
corner. where a box was placed and he
prepared to mount it. Again informed
he would not be allowed to speak. the
detectives say, he requested that he be
arrested.
AS he was being led through the
crowd, Kogerman. according to the po-
lice. urged the crowd to take Reed from
the officers. He was arrested by De-
tectives CoyIe and Crendorff after a
fight. in which both detectives were
bitten -..
Reed in the absence of his attor-
ney Henry John Nelson, attempted to
defend himself before Magistrate Pen
mock He said he had intended making
the same speech he had made elsewhere.
He said he did not consider it harmful
and had been permitted by the authori-
ties Of the other cities.
Attorney John Landberg represented
Kogerman. He asked that the bail be
fixed at a low figure,
Magistrate Pennock first held them in
$500 bail. but Assistant District At
torney James Gay Gordon, Jr.. request
ed that it be increased. Magistrate
Pennock then made it $4,000 '."
Attorney Landberg declared the
amount was Outrageous" and criticised
Mr.. Gordon's Interference" -,...
Attorney Nelson appeared in court
after the hearing and said he had in
tended asking that the men be held for
the Federal authorities, who are more
familiar with Reeds history and bet
ter able to deal with the case"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
RUNAWAY GIRL IS FORGIVEN
Mother of Dorothy Willcher
Agrees to Wedding

Miss Dorothy Willcher. seventeen
years old and pretty, who ran away from
her home at $40 NJ street, Washington,
Northwest May 81. to join her sweet
heart here. pleaded tearfully and sue
cessfully this afternoon with an anxious
mother. and won the parents consent for
her to marry j. Sidney Mahood. twenty
years old, soldier at the Schuylkill
Arsenal
The Marriage License Bureau having
closed for the day. the ceremony was
postponed until Monday.
Mrs. Mary Willcher, mother Of the
girl, came here today to take her home.
The girl had been detained in the
custody of Charles Schwar clerk of the
Detention Bureau for Missing Persons
When the mother arrived. Miss will
cher begged that she be allowed to mar
ry Mahood. and said that II she were
compelled to return home. she would run
away again ct the first opportunity. So
the mother finally consented and. and
went to call on the son-in-law elect at
1884 Wolf street, where he rooms.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01

ant Postmaster General. obtained the
second airplane, mail stamp turned out
by the Government. and donated II to
the Red Cross of ST. Joseph, Mo. 'rhe
stamp was placed on card and was
autographed by President Wilson, be-
sides containing the certificate of the
Third Assistant Postmaster General. at
testing to its genuineness The stamp
was sold recently. and the opening bid
was $500. 1t was Knocked down at
$1,000.
postmaster General Burleson pur-
cha sed the first stamp, and 1t was turned
over, with the Presidents autograph, to
the New York Red Cross auction
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
CAN'T STAY OUT OF WAR
Cassed and Wounded, Vim. W.
Coggin on Way Back to Front

rejected by the army recruiting Of
nc<rs because he is too DID," William
~. Grggin. forty-one years old. Balti-
more. today re-enlisted here in the Ca
madam army, so that he can get back
ana get another crack" at the Ger
mana
Being gassed and wounded on the
Gornfne front in October. 1916, hold no
tersors for Gogsin now tina, he has re-
euperAted sufficiently to. get back into
tho army.
Besides fighting as gunner in the
Reid artillery on many bsttlefields the
Canadians have made historic, Goggin is
y seterttn of .he Spanish h-American war
a9d Of the Philippine insurrection. In
ifne Spanish American war he served
three months IN Cuba, He was in the
Fhilippines three years, eighteen months
~ that time spent under the late Major
54neral Frederick ID. Funston, when
l3neton was captain.
8 GoGgin enlisted In the Canadian army
& neptember. 1915. and in January of
Hext year was In France He went
- to the Ypres front. where he fought
kemmel Hill. Armentieres, Ploegstriet
ebpah lake and Lindenbrook road
Nm the Ypres sector he went to the
6k4 II October. 1916. where he had
NAee thrilling experience OF his en-
eof, nnaily being wounded and gas
n the battle Of Posiers.
&ow the frst tanks 90 into action
= hattje In which the Canadians
~ Coufcellette and where he and
1nta9ea fought twenty-three hours
y without rest There. he said. in
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
HUGE LOADING DOCKS,
NEW HOG ISLAND PLAN
Time to Be Saved in Sending
Out Ships After
Launching

In addition to being the largest ship
yard in the world. Hog Island will be
huge freight terminal.
BY the time of the first launching in
August there will he seven great outfit
ting docks. each 1000 feet long and lOr
feet wide. from each of which cargoes
will be loaded into the nav ships Two
railroad tracks will connect them with
the three railroads entering this port
the Pennsylvania. the Philadelphis and
Reading and the Baltimore and Ohio.
The docks will face the Delaware
with thirty feet of water. so that the
new T500-ton freighters, with their
twenty-five feet loaded draught, can
easily load alongside.
This method of loading will save the
confusion Of delay and lighterage serv-
ice necessary al so many points,
Quick Coal Loading
Tine will also be saved in leading
coal and other supplies, which will also
be done before the vessels leave the out
fitting docks.
Each ship launched at the great as
semblX plant will be, moored to one OF
The big oufittiiig DICKS at the island and
loaded with its overseas cargo, BY load
ing the new ships at Hog Island the
quartermaster department of the army,
which has had SPECIAL committee here
investigating the feasibility of the pro-
posal, believes it can save from two to
three weeks in the boats dispatch to
Europe Two ne wsteel piers will be
constructed by August / for this special
utilization
Besides filling the holds of the newly
launched freighters, a plan is being con-
sidered whereby the Hog Island outfi:-
minals for war fre,ghs.
May Limit Use
Fear is expressed, however. that a
general employment OF the docks as an
ocean terminal for freight would hamper
shipbuildins at the plants. so it is prrb-
able that the number of ether boats
docking for cargoes will he limited. A
Ereat amount of ocean freight is sure.
though. to be poured. through Hog Island
for the new ships and whatever others
can be cared for conveniently.
Although it is proposed only to make
the big shipyard an important leading
point for the duration of the war. ship
ping circles are enthusiastic over the
possibility of Hog Island. being utilized
after the war. becoming second to no
freight terminal IN the world
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
TELLS OF BARKLESS DOGS
Osteopaihs Hear Marvels of Artificial
Surgery Described

Addresses on artificial surgery marked
the second days session of the nine
teenth convention of the Pennsylvania
Osteopathic Association at the Hotel
Walton today.
DR.. George A, Still, who invented a
method by which the bark has been am
putated from dogs in army service. was
the principal speaker.
Doctor Still devised this method when
told by an army officer. that Red Cross
patrols were often betrayed to the enemy
by the barking of dogs carried with the
patrol
Bashline.. DR.. Il. q. Drew, Dr. w. F..
Hawes, DR.. w S. Nicholi, Dr. Charles j,
Muttart, Dr. o. j. Snyder, DR.. Jennie A.
Eyel and DR.. George NJ. Riley.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
PRAISE SHIPBUILDING HERE
Congressman Are Sure Output
Will Meet Expectations

That the output of shipyards in this
district will meet expectations is the
on Merchant Marine and Fisheries,
which recently inspected those yards.
In resolution Of thanks received by
Mayor Smith for their entertainment
in the city the Congressman say:
THE committee has noted with the
greatest satisfaction the splendid spirit
of enthusiasm and co-operation dis
played by the management and work.
men in the work of building a mer-
chant marine in the hour Of the nations
need, .-
From what the committee has noted
IL is encouraged to believe that there
will be an output of ships from these
yards which will meet the reasonable
expectations of the public"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
NURSES GOING TO FRONT
Seven Graduates of St. JosS Sph /
Regin Special Training

Seven graduate nurses OF st. Joseph's
Hospitai training school left today
shortly after noon for Washington. They
will go to the Walter Reed Hospital to
take special course to prepare for
work overseas.
The nurses are Miss Margaret Clark,
Of Germantown, who is In charge of the
group Miss Elizabeth Mulhein. Lans-
ford Miss Lila Walker, Jamacia Miss
Eleanor May, Shamokin; Miss Catharine
Lynch. wilmington, Miss Margaret
O'Ranlan and Miss Cecilia Holland, this
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
BOYS BEGIN FARM WORK
Forty School Youths. Released From
Studies, Repor, at byherrx

The formal opening Of the summer
camp OF the Boys Working Reserve AZ
the Byberry Farms today found forty
eighteen ready to take ,lp the farm
tools for summers hard work The
boys have been released from their
schools.
Superintendent McAilister. of the
Bureau OF Charities, who is in charge
Of the camp. intends using the boys
FIRST for hoeins potatoes, and later. On
will receive credit on their school re-
ports, They. are given furloughs IN
groups, so that certain number will
get nome on alternate Sundays while
hoard -
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-06-01
ASK MACkEY SHOWDOWN
Business Men Want Him to Face Wit.
nesses at Meeting

Harry A. Mackey, the leader Of the
Forty-sixth Ward, has been invited TO
attend meeting of the municipal com
mittee of the United Business Mems
Association of Philadelphia Wednesday
afternoon.
The invitation is the result of COM
plants Mackey Is said to have made
about certain statements made before
the committee, April 90, at hearing of
former policemen, who presented GER
tain grievances.
letter to Mr.. Mackey said the COM
mittee was anxious to test the truth and
accuracy. OF the statements made before
1t. and asked his attendance, for that
purpose. Witnesses who made the state
ments about which Mr.. Mackey COM
plailed will be summoned to the meet
ing II Mr.. Mackey requests, the COM
mittee SAYS.