The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22


warriors pulled over their
~ heads the shaggy hides Of ami
mails as they advanced on the enemy.
They had the primitive, childlike belief
that the sight Of the animals would
frghten the opposing side. Such is the
history OF the Grenadier caps worn by
the British army and such Is probably
the inspiration of the new warlike
clothes invented in these times Of war.
These were worn in Paris, or rather
they were shown In the Paris OPEN
ings. They have arrived in this coun
try and their acceptance is debatable.
There are women who will wear
anything new regardless Of the effect
on their appearance. and these women
may make the new fabrics fashion
able AT first glance they are rather
terrifying. One has a slight creeping
Of sympathy for the Opposing side"
to the leg1ons Of Cesar. Even a stout
hearted warrior would hate to face
great rush OF animal skins moving
toward him with rapidity.
That is the situation that must be
faced by every stout hearted man this
winter II these shaggy materials take
first place in fashion. To the observer
they are the leading phase of the sea-
sons output. They are purely a
French invention, and even IL they
are not accepted in their entirety Of
shagginess they will undoubtedly pave
the way for an immense output Of
Silly materials with rough surfaces.
The first of these materials was
called "Lionceau" and was invented
late last winter, 1 think. and then
used as a substitute for fur. We had
sketches Of 1t in this country, but little
VISUAL evidence OF 1t. 1t was a fabric
invented to initiate the long, silky hide
OF hon. 1t came into being with
The fashion for monkey fur, and both
fabrics owed their source, It is said
10 certain opera in Paris and the sud-
cen debauch OF the European world
Into the savagery Of fighting.
Did Monkey Fur Start ItP
The majority of those who dip deeply
INTO the sources Of fashions and fabrics
insist that the entire output of these
animalistic materials is due to the re-
dudescence Of monkey fur. That, how
ever, would not explain the other
iaorics which are used in the new
french gowns that are arriving IN this
country, and which have hunting
scenes, magnificently ornamental, on
dark background. Jenny uses this
material for panels. and for large
pieces Of evening frocks.
Then there are other fabrics which
show birds and birds plumage as the
ornamental design. but these are of
MINOR brilliancy as against the animal
fabrics, which not only toss about the
red and burnt orange hair Of monkeys
and orang-outangs but also the names
OF animals such as never existed on.
And or sea; these are made from Ave
ana six inch strands of curled silky
nOss interviewer with metal.
The bird fabrics are called "Oisella,"
and the burnt orange hides are called
'Crang-outang." In other gowns, espe-
cAlly one from Bulloz, there is used a
new material called "Toison dor"
which means THE Golden Fleece"
Still another material-and the love-
uest Of all because It is the most prac-
teal for American usage-is the imi-
tatton OF q medieval coat of mail
This fabric, alongside the shaggy ones,
seems TO be cultured and modern.
French weavers' Creation.
After roaming through weaves that
look as though they represented pri
mevaI life. the woven coat Of mail is