The Jasper news., 1918-11-28

monplace and overdue. Say what You
will, there is keen irritation caused
by paying upwards of 5000 for copy
Of French model that is In half the
shop windows of the country, selling
for $50. It was only natural, there
fore, that changes should come about
In not only the details of the gowns
from one month to another, but In the
characterization, and even in the sill
houette.
uneorseted Figure.
These later exhibitions of clothes
by the way, accentuated the corsetlesa
figure. This does not mean that the
mannequins who showed the gowns
were always without corsets. Some OF
them were. But others wore girdles
of tricot or elastic. The effect was I'm.
corseted. That was the vital point.
Some of the greatest houses In
Paris insisted upon this effect In their
August exhibitions, but we have al.
ways tabooed the idea In this coun-
try. 1t is not possible for any but
the young and slim to go about In
clothes that are merely dropped from
the shoulders and tied around the
waist. The new effect is not only ex.
plotted by the very leaders of clothes
in this country, but now 1t is being
taken up by dozens of slim women.
One of the most interesting moves
in this direction. Is return to the
Directoire of Josephine and Nine. Tai
lienein the high waistline and the I'M
doubted convex curve Of the natural
figure in front. To the average WON.
an, this silhouette is unthinkable; to
the artists, sculptors, stage folk and
certain designers, 1t is return to the
best there Is in fashions. 1t is i'm
possible on the middle-aged woman.
unless she has kept herself as thin as
an eel.
This silhouette, us you can see, Is
entirely different from what has been
commonly called the medieval one.
True, in its original state, this was
frankly uncorseted, when 1t was not
boned to such deep point in front
that it seemed as though the woman
were incased In one Of the instruments
of torture used by the Inquisitlon.
This silhouette, which has come about
during the last few weeks, is plainly
Directoire Or Roman, for the former
was copy of the latter.
Its startling innovation Is the bring
ing about Of the line Of girdling the
figure to the bust instead Of the hips,
and yet, as 1t is done by clever de-
signers, 1t really reduces the figure to
more nhrrOwness than ever. 1t Is
used in connection with tight, Egyp-
| tian hip-band that holds the material
| tightly to the figure and then allows
1t to drop downward to the toes and
heels. So 1t is not pure Directoire; II
Is O combination of Roman and Egyp.
tian.
| CaIiot's Mummy Frocks.
The house of Callot also accentu
ates change in the silhouette from
what we have had from other French
houses. It is nothing new under tho
name of Callot, for II was advanced
last February and we called 1t the
mummy silhouette, for want of bet
ter name. The gown Is really a bag
with square sleeves and tight ankles
1t is In striking contrast to the
straight, chemise TUNES of nearly al
the other French houses.
This season 1t is not so pronounced
in Its bagike proportions. 1t take'
on more of the atmosphere of gowr
intended for live, and not a lay
figure. 1t pulls upward In draper!
around the knees and ankles, has {
closer line to the figure under tn,
arms, and depends for its beauty upor
Indian embroidery that spreads itsel
In sharp points down the front from
shoulders nearly to knees. This Il
usually done in copper tones Of sill
floss.
Copyright, 1918. by Mcclure Newspape
Syndicate.)