davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
there is an endless procession

\o-DA1 tnere is an endless procession
of gowns made from a minimum
amount of wool, and one says without
malice that there is as much exploitation If
the individual in this move as there is patrio
tlsm. But it's all to good end so why ca vii?
Each house IS trying to see what it can do in
the way of drawing attention to the fact that
1T can make the best looking gown from the
least amount of worsted material.
The gowns that arc launched now are in
tended tor the spring and warmer weather
and one may buy any amount of woolen cloth
ing from the stock that is left over from the
autumn; but the whole process of fashion j,
toward the elimination of wool, as much as
possible and the introduction of frocks of
satin, crepe, foulard, taffeta and jersey cloth.
These Will go under warm coat. Semi
precious peltry is plentiful. No one need SUI
Ter to-day because she wears a satin gown
when the thermometer is eight above
A smart restaurant gown is made of black
satin and gold galloon. 1t was sent directly
from France as the best evidence of what is
worn in that country for dinner. It was worn
by woman who proposed to go on from tea
to the theatre and supper afterward
The skirt is draped at the sides, and the
folds fall more fatty than the sketch gives
assurance Of. A line of gold galloon drops
from waist to ankles, to accentuatc the trous-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
Notes on Some of the New Frocks

cred effect at the hem The STRAIGHT Or;o,+ y,
podlce IS embroidered in gold and black
threads. The long, tight sleeves that reach -
the knuckle are of gathered black tu]le and
over them is an elbow sleeve Of satin ono,,od
over the forearm to show the tul]c s,eevo
beneath
lhere Was a day when the knitted swea,or
PROVIDED all the protection one desired iron,
'he cold. 1t was worn in and out of the horso
IL was made of Angora wool and hupped tto
inquire under the coat, as we'll as in the honvo
"hen coat was not worm
But women are giving their sweaters FREQ
handedly, to the fighters, so thew have do.
Veloped new kind Of garment to wear IN
place OF the knitted one. 1t is of heavy velvet
or corduroy, is fastened down the front. SINGLE
or doube-hreasted, and often is loaded with
Peltry or colored broadcloth There are cana-
clous pockets to serve several needs-thn
necessity for carrying home small bundles to
reileve congestion in the shops and the desire
TO eliminate mutf when it becomes = fire
some appendage
This fashion for immense fur rockets or
velvet ones heavily lined, in which the hands
can be Kept warm, Is admirable idea TO,
there are few women who do not rebel apainst
the annoyance of struggling with muff, an
umbrella, lew parcels and pocketbook.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
Done With a
Panel and a Bib

Il have made gown from l "a yards Of
worsted," said famous Fifth Avenue de-
signer, land it is good to look at"
Il hope the woman u.s." said the listener.
"Oh, have added other materials" quickly
explained the designer. "The gown does not
affect the minimum of visibility
The frock had to be brought down from the
workrooms to prove the point that it's wearer
would not break the law of economy in wool
or that Of proper drapery. 1t was of black
woollen material, made with bodice that be-
came bib in front and long panel in back
fastened with bone buttons from neck to heels.
The undersiip was of pleated black satin, with
sash of itself that tied loosely over the wide
sandwich back.
This is only one example out of hundreds
that are being offered.
Exploitation is the life of the trade in wou
ems clothes. When the government Joined
hands with the traders in helping them over
serious situation, there was JOY in the land
of apparel. On every side we hear of eff
cheney blouses, economy gowns and conserva-
ton suits. Each firm assures us that less
than three yards of wool is EMPLOYED in each
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06

fashionable type for tea dinner and the play,
made Of black satin embroidered in gold thread.
with double sleeves of tulle and satin.
1t is we'll that this thing has happened, for
the midseason French clothes were not plenti-
full enough to create a strong wave of interest
on the part Of the public, and the announce
ment by the Pennsylvania Railroad that it
wall remove its two Florida specials will cur
tail all Southern pleasure travel to such an
extent that the Palm Beach season cannot be
held up, at the present moment, as an incen-
tive to buying clothes.
However, the difficulty in getting sufficient
coal to heat the large houses of the well-to-do
in the North may cause them to 20 to tenn
perate climate. Already the very rich are
talking of spending the winter on houseboats
in southern waters. At present it is a tossup
as to whether or not the northerners will stay
north
Upon this decision Il great deal Of the new
costumery rests However, the designers are
treadlng water, as it we're, and producing
clothes that are different from what has gone
before, in the hope that enough people will 90
south to speed up the midseason business.
A number of the importers have returned
from Paris with midseason gowns and these
are disappointing, in large measure but
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
Wood Pulp Frocks
Ornamented With Irvine

The leading feature in the new frocks is the
constant repetition of artificial JERSEY silk
matelasse and our common friend, eabardine
This January type Of atifcial silk jersey is
thicker and heavier than anything we have
had under the oft-repeated name. It has the
stiffness that one associates with a fibre made
from wood pulp. 1t may be, however, that
we will not have permission to make much Of
it in this country.
Matelasse is being made over here, and also
the new type of brochure jersey silk, and the
claim is that the American manufactures
have made the stamping of the design more
secure and durable than the French have done
Chanel sends over black gown with tunic
and narrow skirt made of this heavy wood
fibre silk jersey which is decorated in Indian
fashion with white Irvine and tiny wooden
beads.
a success.
Cheruit has made gown that has been in.
jected into the American trade, of beige col.
ored gabardine and a kind of crepe which has
its wrong side turned outward. The skirt is
narrow, but slightly draped at the sides, in
the fashion of a riding habit skirt
That Sleeveless Blouse
Is Becoming Universal
What may be safely called a medi aval gar
ment is the sleeveless blouse that insists upon
being seen at every turn of the fashions
There is nothing new about the loose straight
tunic cut off at the hips or below, and we once
wore it in a half-hearted fashion, calling it
Russian blouse.
1t has been exploited for two years. but
never taken seriously by our public as whole
although certain segments of women wore it
constantly as becoming and useful garment
Personalities are never good form, and yet
it may be within the bounds of good taste to
say that dressmaker in New York turned
out sixteen Of these blouses for Miss Anne
Morgan when she was bound for the devas-
tated regions of France to do her wonder
full bit.
The garment in its new shape presents it.
self on the poster placards as an efficiency
garment. 1t may be made of any material
worn over any kind Of blouse, and it drops
Imply over separate skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06

O1QCk SATIN ana AFtlncldl Sllk jersey, with an
embroidered indian panel in front of skirt
costume, because the firm is too patriotic to
withstand the appeal Of the government.
The traders are trying to go the govern
ment zone better" and not even reach the max
imum measurement of Az yards per suit.
Appeals were made by the French Ambassa-
dor to the French government that the Paris
designers do not put any more than the Amer
lean allotment Of wool into their new gowns.
In order that the patriotic American traders
would not be offended and refuse to exploit
gowns that look disoyal.
Individual designers insist that no wool
should be used in the new Clothes They con-
fine their acceptance Of it to embroidery made
from ends of yarn that cannot be- used for
knitting.
The government gave the clew and the
world OF trade is swimming on a high strong
current of optimism and success Something
happened when defeat seemed almost inevita
BILE. individuality, insight into the emotional
side OF women, the real desire to help the gov
eminent in whatever it asks, have given a
hlllp to the mdseason trade in clothes which
the greatest optimists could not have foretold.
So every one drinks to the health of wool con-
servation
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
Hundreds of gowns are
turned out as an ex.
ploitation of patriotism,
and many are good
Artificial jersey silk is a
leading feature in the
new frocks Irvine !,
used for ornamentation

few Of them point to something new, and the;,
presence is at least stimulating
There are far more interesting sketche.
coming over than gowns, as they purpose II
be the new clothes worn by the women j.,
Paris who are buying smart things. Their,
has been an about-face in the attitude Of IN.
fashionable people toward clothes since ths
entry Of America into the war The conne,.
ton may not appear on the surface to those
who are not interested in this kind of subject
but the vast amount Of money spent by our
well-to-do army in Paris has stimulated trads
to an extent that has not been known since
long before the war.
Another fact that enlivens the clothes mes.
ton over there is the presence of thousands
of get-rich-quick muntion makers and other
members of the vast middle class in France
who heretofore have not troubled their heads
about French gowns.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
Incoming of new models
in thin materials for the
Southern season The
FLIP given the trade by
the government i'm the
conservation of wool is
the momentous hap
pening of the month

perceptible even to the most careless
onlooker.
The trade sings the refrain of one of our
popular war songs, "Do Something, Do Some
thing, Do What You Can" An appeal must
be made to the public. It cannot be made with
any success the sound and conservative
basis of selling clothes to those who need them
as protection from winter cold. That par
ticular kind of trading long since ceased to
exist Exploitation, stimulation and adver-
Using are necessary during each month of the
year except October and May. in order to lure
the coin from the purse Of the public.
This month Of January witnesses the annual
performance of stirring stunts to keep the
women interested in the question of apparel
heretofore, the traders have had two excel
lent pegs on which to hang new clothes at
this time Of the year-the exodus to Palm
Beach and the incoming Of midseason French
fashions
But this January the trade has added a
third peg to the row on which the two others
were placed They have had sop thrown to
them by the government In the nature of a
request to make gowns out Of as little wool
as possible, and they have pledged themselves
in body to keep within the az yard meas
urement for suit or gown.
This third peg was an actual stimulus to
production. 1t offered broad white way to
exploitation. 1t fairly dubbed and seethed
with advertising possibilities. It was taken
up by the trade eagerly as a brilliant phrase
of statesman is caught up by the multitude
and made a part of an appeal to war
propaganda, propaganda is the thing"
said all those who trade in clothes. Each man
Jumped to his scissors, his pencil and his ma
terial and went to work to beat all his COM
petitors in producing a costume to which he
could point with pride and say, with a spread
ing, arrogant gesture, "ths Is the ultimate
pinnacle on which art and economy can stand
entwined.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-06
SPORT COAT

SPORT COAT
Made of black velveteen, wadded
for warmth, with cape collar,
cuffs and sash Of beige broad
cloth stitched with black. Oh.
serve the package pockets. This
coat complies with the reeula-
tons for saving wool, because it
takes the place Of a sweater.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22

fore entering the service. The
boys themselves stated that they
liked the army life. and spoke very
highly Of their officers, who were
pleasant and courteous, and invited
the visitors to eat supper with the
men in the camp that they might
see for themselves just the kind of
food the soldiers were getting
meat, bread, potatoes. etc., all
wholesome food, we'll cooked. On
Sunday the two boys were granted
leave Of absence, and they enjoy
ed the day in company of their
fathers at Manhattan, the city
adjoining the camp. Here they
attended . banquet given for the
kahki boys and their relatives, and
also attended the church services.
which were Of an excellent order,
and were largely attended by sol
dier boys. Questioning his own
son as to what they could send him
from home in the way Of comforts,
the young man told him that all
their wants we're we'll provided for
by Uncle Sam, and that they were
not n need Of anything, and were
real. enjoying their military life.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
Look After Your Seed Corn

County Agent Swedberg return.
ed Saturday from Brookings, where
he had been attending the gather
ing of the county agents Of the
state, There were at the meeting
Is of the regular farm bureap
agents and "a. emergency agents,
and these with the assistance made
company of 20. and the several
days session they had will help to
systemize the work in the several
counties. The important work On
hand at present is the selecting a.
seed corn. As will be seen from !
short item in another column the
testing Of the corn brought in to
the county agent shows that while !
few samples show good terminating
qualities there were other samples
that were utterly worthless, % that
Of all the samples tested the aver
age was only So percent. Il will
pay the farmer to make an ear tese
Of his seed corn before planting thie
year.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
INDUsTRIAL.CONTEST.
Girls and Boys Of the Rural Schools
Make Exhibit Of their Work

At the exhibit of-the boys and
gir's of the rural schools displayed
last week at the court house, the
showing Of corn by the boys was
but meagre one, but the girls
more than made up for the slack
ness of the boys and there was a
highly crediable exhibit. of needle
work of all kinds, and some Of it
of very praiseworthy character.
During the school officers meeting
last week the fact that there were
but few corn exhibits by the boys
was mentioned, and this was at
tributed to the fact that the corn
was of poor quality last year, but
one of those present intimated
that it might possibly be due to the
belief that at some Of the corn con-
tests in the past years some. boys
had sent in corn from their fathers
corn crib rather than that which
they had themselves cultivated and
raised. Those present at the meet
ing were chagrined to think that
there we're parents in Grant county
who we're SO devoid of good sense
and honor as to permit boy to at.
tempt anything Of this kind, when
they should know that the foster
ing of such a line of conduct is
bound to prove a handicap on the
boy in all his future life. We
rather question whether anything of
this kind has ever been done. The
boys should be encouraged to study
the seed question, make good selec-
tions Of seed and start in this year
to make good showing in the next
contest.
Following are the prizes award.
ed:
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
Visit Sons In Army
Two Grant County Men Inspect
Camp Funston and Pronounce II
All Right.

Messrs. Niels Anderson and
James Levisen of Stockholm were
in the city on business Monday.
Mr.. Anderson with his neighbor
C. A. Carlberg returned last week
from a several days visit to Camp
Funston. where they had gone to
see their sons, who are in the SER
vice there. They had heard more or
less that the boys in the camps
were not being treated well, and
the two fathers made the trip to
see for themselves. Mr.. Anderson
says that he found that the boys
were being well taken care of.
His own son had gained 25 lbs. in
weight since he had been in the
camp, and the military drill had
broadened and Strengthened out the
young men so that their physical
bearing and carriage was in mark
ed contrast to the STOPPING should
ers and slovenly gait they had be-
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22

To date l26 samples Of seed corn
have been tested in Grant counEy. !.
The tests average Sc Per cent.
A number Of samples tested over
80 per cent. although an equal
number went 0 per cent. 1as
main in benefit Of testing ct thia
time il to determine what corn
will need 70 be single ear tetted.
Most Of those who have senE q
samples probably can get their
own seed il they will single aaf
test.
In . short time We EXPECT %
open . seed testing station q Mil
bank FOR the purpose Of single enr
testing for thoss who want thie8
done. The testing will b done.
for whatever It costs to do It. All
those who have corn that they want
single ear tested should let me
know the amount % that arranee-
ments can be made. The more ~
have to test, the less it costs por
bushel. Every dead ear planNe6
costs $3.50 ia land and labor alone.
not counting the decreased yield.
J. |. Swedberg.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
DON'T MISS IT.
Dr. Gray's Lecture on what he saw
In Belgium, Next week Wednesday

The United States government
long before entering the world
war had number of men over
in the long batt]eljne at the diff
ferent fronts, for the purpose of
obtaining absolutely correct and
reliable information IS to the
things that were taking place in
Europe and the events that were
then happening and making his
tory. One of these men was
Dr. John a. Gray, whois to lec-
ture here next Wednesday night,
Feb. 81, at the Bentley Grand in
connection with the presentation
of the picture GLORY" DR..
Gray will give the story of the
scenes as he saw them on the
battlefront. This is one Of the
opportunities for us to get near
this great world tragedy that is
now being enacted. Don't miss
hearing Gray.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
Julius Cruise, Deceased

Mr.. julius Cruise, one of the
early settlers in the vicinity of Big
Stone Lake died on the Is inst. at
his home in Geneseo townhip in the
18th year of his age.
T h e deceased m an wa 8
born near Berlin, Germany, and
came to America forty-five years
ago. For a number of years he re-
sided in Wausau, Wis.,. and other
towns in that state. and came west
to Dakota 36 years ago. settling on
q land near Big Stone lake, which
has been his home ever since except
for the past four or five years, dur
ing which time he has been living
part Of the time in Milbank.
The deceased man leaves q wife
and ten children. Robert. Albert
Mahlen and Ella, who live here;
Prof. Edward Cruise. who is prin-
cipal Of the high school 1t Hermo-
"a, S. D., Henry who lives at Buff
falo: Anna, ct Aberdeen; Paul ct
Excell, Albel ta; Walter who is at
Camp Grant in the national army
and John at P0catilla, Idaho.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
The Churches Patriotic

The churches are not going to be
behind any of the other institutions
of the land it their loyalty and pa
triotism and their full and hearty
support Of the war on autocracy.
The Methodist pastor a week or so
ago gave fine lecture on Abraham
Lincoln in connection with the ded-
ication of service flag with Is
stars upon it.
Last Sunday the Congrega-
tional pastor at the morning SER
vice. had the patrol Of boy scouts
as guests Of the church at a presen-
tation of a large national flag to
the church with appropriate cere-
monies Of patriotic character.
At the Catholic church Sunday
evening Rev. FIR. O'Neil conducted
a ceremony of blessing two flags for
the church. The young people
and children sang a number of pa
triotic songs during the ceremo-
nies. s.all tending to a loyal and whole
hearted patriotism.
The fact is that a spirit Of patri-
otism and the spirst of. rever-
ence or religion are SO closely akin
that they are each a stimulant to
other, and the lack Of one usually
betokens the absence of the other.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
U. 3. Club Doing Coed Work.

The u. B. Club met with Miss
Aimee Mcdonald Monday evening.
Reside the Red Cross knitting. lin
en was torn for handkerchiefs Tor
the use OF the soldiers in hospitals.
Since the last meeting. twenty bed
socks and five bandages were turn
e il. Az to knitted articles. nine
svesters and three trench caps have
bsen completed for the February
Red Croes shipment. The third
shipment Of shoes 70 New York
couaiGeed of twenty three peirA
which included . three dollar do
nAtion. 4 yoey pleasank evening
eloosd vitA dniaey relso6hmsnel
ssExDd y - hoslsA
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22
First Class b led Cross Work

Miss Hazel Conright. the Red
Gross instructor. graduated her
first class in the medical dressing
department this week some seven
ladies taking the course Mrs. lice
Mrs. Caruthers, Mrs. Middlebrook,
Miss Laura Rodgers, Miss Erma
Nittelstaedt. Miss Helen Bleser and
Mim Marie Wilson. The first ship
aaent of these medical dressings
will be made this week. Some
time next week volunteer classes
will be oragnized for work in the
afternoons and evenings-when the
workers will all do . particular
class Of work at certain hours.
The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1918-02-22

When old age brings with 1t the
recollection Of a well-spent life it
has a peculiar charm and satisfac-
tion that is not experienced in any
other period of life. The tru tn of
this is brought to our mind by a
family group photograph recently
taken Of Mr.. John Martens. his son,
CIV. Martens. q grandson, William
J. Martens, and great-grandson,
William H. Martens -four genera
tions being represented in the pic
ture.
Mr.. John Martens is one Of the
pioneers Of Grant county. having
been among the very first Of the
settlers in the MILESTONE valley,
where he located his homestead
some forty years ago. and
where he has lived continuous
II ever since. That this country
has proven . benificent land, re-
turning . bountiful reward to in
dustry and intelligent toll, is evil
denced by the fact that Mr.. Mar
tens has raised q family Of seven
children, has been able to provide
for them educationally and other
wise as they grew to maturity, and
has q competency for the years of
his later life. Mr.. Martens was
born in Holland 81 years ago. and
came to America in the year l849
in his young manhood, and with his
parents lived at Green Bay, Wis.
where he was married April 4.
1858, to his now deceased wife,
and where he had his home until
1878, when he learned Of the oppor-
tunity to acquire farm in what
was then the almost unknown land
Of Dakota. and he started for the
western country.
Undergoing al the hardships and
inconvenience of frontier life, he
nevertheless prospered, and wrung
from the virgin soil Of the prairie
not only . good living for himself
and family, but secured q comfort
able competency for his declining
days. and Is in these later years OF
his life able TO look out upon the
world with : satisfying sense that
be has not lived entirely in vain.
During his nearly forty years Of
lie On his Whetstone farm, where
b still makes his home. Mr.. Mar
tsne has seen this county Of Grant
|smergs from sn undevsloped wasta
|o1 psai5ie. With scAsoslH a acrs Of
|peowed had % u Gn11ncos end