Evening star., 1918-02-10
nv ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

-uE conservation of wool is an
established fact in France and
III America. It is fact that Will
4 entirely change our conception
of apparel.
SILK will rule. The world has sur
plus Of other materials. 1t would seem
from statistics, and yet the foundation
stone of conservation will extend
throughout the fashionable ciothes ior
the period Of the war"
The fundamental idea OF saving has
SO penetrated the consciousness OF our
people, the propaganda Is so wide
spread and vital that the historian OF
the future will surely look with extra
ordinary interest upon the psychologi-
cal change tha. took place in 100000
600 people in eight months.
There are changes in q nation that do
not create surprise when they are
thrust upon it by an invading army In
war. but the change in America Is one
of spirit. There is money aplenty. men
by the millions. industries at full speed,
and yet, with wealth and resources,
1000. 900 people have turned somer-
sau,t in their attitude toward material
possessions.
1t is extraordinary. 1t is profoundly
Interesting and stimulating. IL IS the
acorn which may grow into nationai
OAK Of towering height and strength
II has struck at the core OF our ma
tionai spirit. It has brought us back to
the days Of our Puritan ancestors. II has
made US middle class in the best sense
So1o iS
save. Yesterday it was a passion to
spend
We reversed the entire national out
look in six months, not for the pur-
pose of aggrandizement or conquest.
but for the relief of oppression and the
freedom Of small nations" Who after
This can dare to say that we are not, in
the final judgment, spiritual people?
The passion for conservation wiped
out Of existence the fashion for moving
robes made Of plenteous material.
thrust into the fashions. whenever an
extremely short and narrow skirt has
been offered to women, critics galore
have risen In their chickering's and de-
and vain to the uttermost degree.
There is no such pickering today,
however. The critics of women's clothes
remain silent. A man looks apprais-
servation costume and mods his head in
approval. as though she carried q nag.
There is no more talk about inde-
cency. The talk hinges upon the pa
triotism shown in the sienderness OF
silhouette and in the scarcity Of ma
teriaIs worn. Therefore. fashion and ma
tional approval go hand in hand. Tn
less we are mockingly indecent. and
there is no chance Of that today. there
10 none to rise and call US outra geous
The excessive decolletage OF two
years ago would create q storm Of pro-
test in any public place. Women with
mere belts held over their shoulders by
sfipping bands of rhinestones would be
frowned down by men in khaki and by
those in civilian clothes.
And yet women may go on the street
with skirts so short and narrow that
they closely resemble trousers, and
laced Army boots or puttees that reach
well above the calf OF the leg. and not
a glance is given them that expresses
contempt or disapproyal.
The new suits in Paris, as we'll as
those that are launched in America.
show these skirts. Some are so narrow
that they might cause discomfort II it
were not that their shortness gave
freedom OF movement.
CoG4A .afe short when they belong to
suits Army eapes ripple down the fig !
ure when warmth is needed.
The cape will be exceedingly smart
this thns season. 50 you who have one Of
mind it well. for in q few weeks YOU
may be able to swing it on with the
bravado adopted by all those women
who are in war activities or would like
to be.
Capes.and long waistcoats that reach
half way to the knees are substitutes
for coats In the absence Of suits, al
though the really smart thing is the
eton or the boiero jacket. as far as the
American fashions are concerned.
The early French clothes sent to this