Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1918-06-14

Deen q growing feeling mere OF lndepen-
dence of Paris. All of us who firmly
believed that no country could get
along without the deciding vote Of
France as to what should be done In
clothes, realized, during the first years
Of the war, that our opinion was cor.
rect.
Changes Of Importance.
But the situation has changed, and
our beliefs have changed with 1t. AS
| far as one can see, there Is no chance
Of our losing the comfort of getting
from Paris our inspiration as to the
silhouette, and we shall also get from
that country of cOnSummate art in ap-
parel, the various movements Of cloth,
| the details Of OrnamentatiOn, and the
production Of new tissues, which stim-
ulate and enliven our work. But-and
say that with full conviction, after
talking with people in power and with
dressmakers. designers and merchants
who have had their hand on the pulse
of things for three years-a decided
change is coming over our method Of
launching fashions.
The reasons are important. not only
to the merchant, but to each woman.
She Is thinking individual these days.
if she never was before, and she will
decide what is best to be done and
will either coincide with the new meth
cd of work or go against it. There
fore. she ought to be Informed of the
conditions.
The American buyers were not en-
thusiastic, 1t is true, over the purchas-
ing of hundreds Of French gowns, al
though they spent an immense amount
Of money out of pure good will and TAX
ing gamble. The prices were beyond
all limitations set for clothes. France
said she was compelled to ask such
prices, and the American buyers
thought they were compelled to give
them; but they assert themselves as
determined never to do 1t again.
Two hundred and fifty dollars was
a simple price for any gown. Two
hundred dollars was asked for q mus
lin without lace or embroidery. Cabot
asked from five to six hundred dollars
apiece for her evening frOcks. Now
add to that the 60 per cent duty which
every merchant must pay to our Gus
toms. There were some gowns that
cost a thousand dollars to land. What
would be the return on such clothes
No American woman would buy them.
Americas Narrow Skirt.
| IA H. h, In
son America invented the skirt with
the slight hustle and the bias folds 60
ing upward from the knee to the back
1t is claimed that French designer
sent to this country for twelve of these
sketches, and adopted the hustle in def
erence to American wishes. Good evil
dence for the truth of this statement
is shown in the hustle which a certain
French house has sent to this country
Another piece Of alteration that Is
given away by good dressmakers Is
adding to frOck a narrow plain under
! skirt and cutting the gown itself 10 t.
!. IL inches shorter, and letting 1t fall as
tunic with a girdle over the new ad
ditiOn. This eliminates the flares ir
the chemise robe of yesterday ant
gives one the proper silhouette.
AS long as 1t is fashionable to veal
two or three materials in combination
one is not called upon to match thu
one-time chemise gown in cloth Of
color when adding a separate under
skirt over which to drop 1t. Blacl
satin goes with blue serge, beige clOtl
or brown gaberdine. 1t also goes will
plaids and checks; and on the Othe
hand Scotch designs in wooden ant
other fabrics are used for skirts
: TUNES Of plain material are cOmbine'
with these skirts by the best dress
makers, and therefore the amateu
sewing woman need not be timid II
making the same combination.
Copyright, 1918. by the Mcclure Newspa
per Syndicate.)