Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-06-23

clothes are to be forbidden that privi-
lege. A few man buyers will be al
lowed to go after the government has
thoroughly searched their reasons for
the attempt and given them permits
sion that is hedged about with as
many restrictions as though it were
signed by military governor.
Under the pressure Of all these con-
ditions the American buyers think
they will not go to Paris this year.
and the rumor persists that only a
very few of the French houses will
show gowns.
The latest rumor, believed by many,
is that the new fashions will be
shown in Deauville and Biarritz and
not in Paris. Whether this change
from the century-old center of fash
ions to seaside summer resorts Is TO
calm the fears of the AmericapS| who
might not wish to visit raided city.
or whether it is done as method or
saving thousands Of francs Tor the
French dressmakerS, no one can tell.
The Americans have shown supreme
courage. the women equally with the
men, but not since the battle of the
Marine has the situation been SO
tense, so filed with misgivings, and so
pregnant Will udH5Si 30 IL 60 80 -
the present moment. The air may
clear. the German line may be thrown
back, the colossal Gothas may be
overcome; but now there is a feeling
among the buyers, and it seems to De
shared by the French dressmakers.
that the tenseness is too great in
Paris to allow of any judicious shop
ping and exploiting of new fashions.
Remember. you may be a cynic
about this affair of the interchange Of
gowns between the two countries,
that it is not a matter of frivolity. 1t
is stern necessity in finance. France
needs the money; America has 1t.
France has heretofore had the in
SEPARATION to offer, and America has
heretofore followed it, somewhat too
blindly.
Those who can look below the sur
face know that terror and danger
have very little to do with the present
situation regarding the shipment OF
clothes. 1t is an economical one, prob
ably, more than one created by the
sound of bombs or the bursting of
shells.
1t is a question of shipping, of pack
ing, of invoices, even OF cables. NO
one can feel sure now that the clothes
for which thousands Of dollars are
paid will reach America. This is not
on account of submarines; it is be-
cause the French railroads are needed
for troops, and entire trunks of most
costly gowns have been forever lost
between Paris and the coast. Added
to this extreme uncertainty and loss
of money there are the new laws Of
export and import.
Taking it all in all, there is an un-
easy feeling in both countries that
there will be less buying of French
clothes this summer than since the
war. We may get
French inspiration through gowns
that will be sent over, haphazard.
through resident buyers, through ca
bles. photographs and sketches,
through written letters and possibly
through crinolines. but one thing is
certain: That the vast amount of
merchandise which has heretofore
crossed the ocean in September and
determined American fashions will
not be bought or sold this year.
What then? Are we ready to launch
out for ourselves in any large and
conspicuous manner? 1 think we are.
1t would be foolish, however, to
sound the trumpet. and wave the
banners, and proclaim a victorious
march into the highest realm of
original Interpretation of clothes.
Revolutions come slowly. None of
them spring up over night. They are
not somersaults: they are gradual
turning around of the wheel, which
gains momentum as it goes.
For three years we have talked