The Raymer enterprise., 1918-10-31
= nat mere is any shifting Of fasn-

- fhat there Is any shifting Of faah-
I{o over there from severe. straight
Silhouette to Dolly Warden kind Of q
thing that ls utterly unbecoming to
the American woman and has nothing
In common with her stern activities In
wartime.
Over there. Bulloz. who has had a
dominating influence on clothes for
three years. has thrown his cap over
the windmill and gone In for the d.
rectoire. This Is fashion that the
American woman wears in a manner
peculiarly suitable to her figure and
personality.
Sleeves ft the arm at the top and
branch out into wide cuffs or flares
that are lined with brilliant, striped
silks, and the elongated decolletage
that shows the neck only as far as
the collarbone Is quite severe. edged
with an outstanding ruche Of white
tulle or organdie.
Chains Of brilliant quartz or carved,
opaque stones drop over the plain.
tight blouses In the early Italian fash
Ion. Sleeves are sometimes latticed,
as they were In the days when CHR.
landaio painted the lovely Giovanna
Tornibuoni on the caivas which Is
now owned by J. Pierpont Morgan.
March will decide the issue between
the two fashions. America Is evident
ly striving to produce a silhouette Of
her own. and she is trying It out at
the Southern resorts. II consists of a
straight, narrow skirt and a short
Eton jacket. or drapery Of material
that suggests such a jacket. She is
destroying all severity Of line by add
ing ruchings, plated ribbons and va
rious kinds Of ornamentation that
break the surface and do not sharply
outline 1t.
The Spring MatsrIals
There is patriotic effort made by
the American dressmakers to bring In
such fabrics as are produced by our
cotton mills.
The use Of the gayly colored calicoes
Of the South which have been worn
by the negroes for generations. has
long been advocated, and the use Of
the bandanna handkerchief for trim
ming. 1t Is quite possible that the
northern part Of the country has
never quite realized the beauty of the
cheap fabrics that are turned out In
bales by the Southern mills.
Calico has never come into It's own
In this country. although Paul Poiret
admired It more than any other na-
tional fabric that we offer. There Is
an effort being made to introduce II
at the Florida resorts this spring. and
II may come about that we shall see
1t In u great variety Of costumes late
In the season.
Jersey Is rampant. and when made
OF artificial silk threads or Of thin
worsteds, 1t holds Its own In an amaz-
Ing manner. The novelty jersey shows
cream or oyster white background
with large and r9ther grotesQue or
nament woven into 1t or applied by
means Of small beads.
All the Chinese fabrics have been
relnstated. Shantung In Its khaki
color has again been found an ad-
mirable material. especially when its
dullness Is enllvened BY a bit Of Nat
tier blue, deep scarlet and sometimes
with a combination Of black and or.
ange.
Georgette crepe has q powerful DO
sition. 1t has taken on a bit Of kin
ship to the embroidered jersey by
having stamped circles or interlaced
rings dripping across Its surface. It
comes In odd colors Of light blue with
rings Of deeper blue.
Brilliantly printed silks, usually of
American make. are put back into
the spring fashions, although they
need an artist to Incorporate them In
costume. The world Ia rather weary
of the Futuristic designs. as they have