davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30
NEWLY WOVEN CLOTH
 INITIATES COAT OF MAIL

1 We are not only going to embelish our bodies with soft furs as a protest and
 protection against the lack of coal and 1 hot water in zero winters, but we delight
 edly find that the deAigners are giving to the world new material that looks leXactly like a coat of mail
 1 Women will have jer1ins of it with sealskin sleeves, or they will have long tunics of it. girdled at the waist with In
 dian red silk and gltterng in the sun. There will be short skirts of sealsln sometimes worn under these long jer- kins or coats of mail ana there will be evening gowns built of this silver and gold coat of mail cloth which will turn the most m dern woman into a l first cousin to Boadicea
 l In contrast to these glittering and
 sumptuous fabrics of a day when men had to wear armor as a constant pro- lection from the dagger thrust of an enemy, are the new coats of leather. They simmer and slime in the rain; 1 they protect one from the cold;- they will be used as jerkins, as short jackets over thick, woolen skirts when the au- tumn comes.
 This fashion has been, stolen of it's glory in october by smart women al- ready advancing the idea in sport and country costumes for bad days.
 Paris wore these coats all during the spring because of the constant rain and the fact that she was in the open more than ever before They are of seal ana light brown, of dark blue and black, and they are fastened with leather covered buttons Usually there are pockets and a loose girdle cut from a strip of leath- err This is not fastened by a buckle but in the medieval manner of one end of the thong over and over the other
 There is no doubt that we are going to glitter and glisten this year as did the fighters of the tenth and eleventh cen tures. The milliners have blazed the way for this, for, as the student Of dress we'll knows, one con build up rather good programme of new fashions for gowns and wraps by what the mil liners exploit in head coverings.
 And when you see new felt hats ex- plotted on all sides, with their sole trimming consisting of the tinsel cor,l worn by American officers, you vii realize that the glitter of war is to be put into the autumn costumery
 Felt hats, by the way, are very smart for summer. They may keep away the incoming velvet hat nlch leaves us in February, when 1t is needed and comes back the first of July, when it is un- desirable.
 The felt hat of the hour is white, oyster, beige, black and yellow, and is trimmed with masses of flowers ar ranged in wreath around the crown.
 When the hat is for sports, for coun- try or for travelling. it has the tinsel cord of the American captain.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30
HISTORY REPEATS IN
 NEW AUTUMN FASHIONS

In using peltry ne walk backward in history. In what we moderns call the early history of Europe, much that was lovely was done with peltry. And fur ther back, when artificial heat was not known, when men and women lived in damp huts or palaces, when life was crude and raw and self-sacrifcing in a way that we may never know, even under the exigencies of great war, peltry was the true means of covering the body and making ones self not only beautiful but comfortable.
 And this is the reason that the dress makers are taking up fur so early in the season and intend to emphasize it for next autumn and winter; we are walk ing backward into history for inspira- ton in clothes, We thought we knew something of medievalism through the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

Little Joseph was bundle of grimy flesh anG grimier clothing. But the ex- traordinary thing about the grimy young person was his two braids of hair, which were tied with bits of shoe lacing.
 Little Josephs brother had to stay at home to tend him, while his mother work ed in the factory. The day nursery re- fused to take the little boy because his hair was so dirty, but the braids could neither be cut nor washed. They are promised to God' explained the little big brother.
 When Joseph had been sick his mother had promised God that she would not cut his hair, but would let it fall only of itself. if little Joseph might recover.
 The Y, VI. c. A. decided that little Josephs home was a good place to start a mothers club. and today the Marc block boasts efficiently organized club rooms for neighborhood mothers.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

flashes of 1t that the designers have
 given us for the last year, but it seems
 to the prophets that we are going to ! tumble backwards into it and that our 1 clothes will present a fair example of
 what was worn in those early stages of civilization, when it was the occupa- ton of men to kill and woman to stay
 at home.
 You remember the outside blouse, some times fashioned as a straight cuirass, which was brought on the fashion mar
 ket two years ago? A woman who asked for one at smart shop the oth- CT day was airily told that that line Of fashion was entirely closed out Yet the woman knew that it was just coming in and that it would probably grow in importance as summer advanced.
 This new garment is a genuine med 1eVal jerkin. It can be copied from the men who fought with William the First that William or Morse blood and pirate traditions, who, as history de- scripes him, Handed in England and brought with him bloodshed, devasta- ton, new laws and new fashions"
 These are made today of peltry, as they were in those days, and there is an odd little glimpse of relationship be- tween the silhouettes of 1066 and 191S Those Norsemen girdled their legs with leather thongs coming above half shoes of leather, and there is the silhouette of the woman of the hour, with her long, laced boots or her high, fitted spats.
 Those men wore the tunic with it's fur sleeves and jersey body, or the other way around, to be accurate, and they also swung the long. ripping cape over their shoulders which fell to the top of the strappings on their legs. Can't you visualize the resemblance between us and f bei,1
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30
An Anti-Shampoo Pact
From the World Outlook.
Then there was little Joseph.

Then there was little Joseph. Although his New York address was East Forty fifth street, his home environ
 ment was brought from Marc. The old customs had not even cracked in transit whole villages, inwardly unchanged, came to settle in adjacent blocks of New York city. With them come old feuds, old approximations. In one block babies wear scarlet strings around their wrists to ward off the evil eye. In another
 babies with the croup. which always so terrifies young mothers, are laid on beds of raw oysters.
 X truant officer invaded the Marc block. He found a puzzling situation, which he turned over to Y. w. C. A. institute visitor She climbed the steep tenement stairs and entered little Jo- seph's home On the clean painted walls were gayly coored Holy pictures, and
 solemn photographs of all the family
 friends and relatives. In the center oi
 the floor sat little Josephs older brother,
 holding little Joseph in his arms
 The little biz brother was small per-
 son, with tiny white triangular face
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

mine, but when a stiff haired fur is hardened as though cold wind had passed over them.
 Paris is augmenting the use of seal skin. Capes are made with IS and 20-inch borders of it; skirts are made with floating panels of it lined with chiffon; medieval clurasses of heavy embroidered satin that show a glnt of silk and metal in the design, have long, medieval sleeves of American sealslSin which flare over the knuckles
 The sealskin sacque will come back with the ostrich feather These have always been associated in the minds of those who remember the days of old when the height of bliss to a fashion able woman was summer in Sara toga, pair of drop solitaire earrings. a short, untrimmed sealskin sacque and a hat ornamented with two or more long, floating ostrich plumes.
 The diamond earrings will not return to fashion, but the ostrich feather and the sealskin coat will come out on the primrose path of fashion in the early autumn.
 The women of England and France have led the way. The ostrich plume was first demanded by those who made money in munitions and had to spend it on the symbols of luxury but soon the French women took it up for it's beauty and again we have soft felt hats with blue and rose pink, black and brown thickly curled ostrich plumes floating around the crown and drop ping down on the shoulder
 One of the new bits of millinery shows hat that has Joffre blue plume pulled around over the left shoulder like curl. and one gets a quick, flashing backward glimpse of those women of royal France who hunted through the forests with a plume down their back and a falcon At~
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

Thc American government is ia- terested in the exploitation of seal skin That is a sentence pregnant thing; to Hooyerize on tle other fuTs and use the kind which the Pacific coast produces.
 St. Louis is to be the headquarters so it is said, of the fur industry in this country. Heretofore, London has mad the supreme place of the world. How ever, journeying across the ocean ol self-appointed missions, either for in- dustry, commerce or curiosity, has had a taboo put upon it by our government and by those united with us on the other side.
 It is easier to get to St Louis than to London. therefore, and the recent fur sales in that city have been so enormously successful that the peltry men are not worried about the future.
 It is said that the dyes and the prep aration of fur for costume usage are exceptionally good. The story goes that quite degree of sharp irritation has been caused among certain groups of individuals concerning the dyeing knowledge that St. Louis has made her own. Whatever the outcome of the irritation, the fact remains that the fur people say that women have notn- ing to fear from the grade, the quality or the coloration of the fur that will bear the American label.
 AROUND WORLD BEFORE
 REACHING AMERICAN WOMEN
 Everyone does not know the extraor- dinary situation which was developed in the fur trade before the war broke The simplest piece of American peltry that an American girl wore had prob ably made little journey half around the world and was far more travel ad than it's possessor. You could catch a coon in Georgia, send it to London for preparation, across the English channel to France to have style and finish put into it, then from a port in France to an Atlantic port and finally jour ney it across the continent, drop it into various places well known and unknown, and sell it to an Ameri.an woman
 Such was the fate of piece of fur. Today our peltry stays at home. We can catch a coon in Georgia, an opos- sum in Alabama, trap mink in New England, get together all the cats and rats the nation does not need. and urn them out between St Louis New York, Chicago and San Francisco into a mot ley array of admirable furs.
 Fostering this condition is the Amer ican government. Our native seal skin will be pushed to the limit of ex- ploitation as a fashionable fur, and there is no reason for women to finger far behind the government in it's de- sire to have these skins sold in steady fashion.
 The reason for the enthusiasm on the part of the majority of women for this soft and pliable fur, is its effect upon the human face and figure. It is sin gularly attractive to flesh and bona It falls into supple folds; it brings out the best in a complexion. Raccoon, opossum. skunk and all the other long haired furs are stylish. one admits, but they are not becoming. Silver foxes are graceful enough in their unduia-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

1 them have their way. They not only
 give them separate pieces of fur, bu l gowns trimmed with it. capes bordereJ
 with it and blouses heaped with it. l Mind you, they are not stingy about 1 fur on these new clothes There is no' tiny fringe of it on chiffon ruffIe as in other days, but it is used in a
 bold and lavish manner, such as 2o- inch bands, medieval sleeves and huge
 girdles with bows at the back. 1 It does not take superfine reckoning to realize that the American sealskin is about the only fur that can be used in this generous fashion. The stiff-haired pelts cannot be manipulated into pieces of a garment; they must re- main as separate entities used as ac- cessories.
 So. summing it all up, we have an- other bit of fashionable fabric that bers the label Made in U. s. A." It has been pointed out that this Iapel should be changed because it is not as provincial as our ardent patriots in the fabric world would seem to think it should be. You see, we forget that r. S. A, also stands for the Union of South Africa and the United States of Australia, and the label would mean nothing to masses of people outside Of America.
 We want to becofne an exporting coun- try, and the critics point out that t would need constant explanation 10 d long list of foreign countries as to what the Made in U. s. A." label stood for. There are some who believe it should be changed to Made in America" How ever, there are objections to that, also, because of Canada and South America, but it means great deal more to the world than does the label Made in U. S An
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

will always remain free slave of the country"
 The Creek who wants to "obey that impulse may read "Kopnos;" the Pole, "Molyl;" there is the Yiddish Big Stick. aiming to rival Life" in humor. There is Spanish movie magazine, baking magazine in Yiddish, Greek 'fEmpo- rion' devoted to confectionery, and, of course, a French fashion paper. The Japanese Nippon Jin" parallels the Literary Digest" Surely here is ma terial to satisfy he most varied taste.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30
NEW SUITS OFFERED
 FOR SUMMER RESORTS

The American designers, as well as those in France, are taking time by the forelocll and exhibiting autumn gowns that may be bought at the pres ent moment and worn at summer re- sorts cool enough to make fur endur- able.
 To the outsider the very thought of peltry in our hot, humid climate dur ing July and August, is depressing; but there are thousands who are not so easily depressed by a circumstance over which they have full control They want fur; they like to wear it, and it pleases them to make a piquanr contrast between their costume and the thermometer.
 Therefore, the designers will let
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

tions and the hairs are soft enough to keep woman's face gentle and fem
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-06-30

Prophets Insist We of wMm Fitted LooaBa Weave eUedf Bee Invented for o n neasa St. unk Is h rolf Appar America ninU Using Soft salAn Symbol Q
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

telescopes. Mere beginners at the
business, eager for a foothold on the
road that sonS day may lead to hand
from Joining the throng by the fact
that their entire stock in trade is lin
tied to single suit. Why should
they be? The one suit If sold to i'd
vantage may help to gain working
capital for the purchase of two or
three more and these two and three
more-but all whose business 1t is to
buy and sell, in small quantities or
stupendOus amounts, know the process
by which the wealth of the world is
increased.
The bands Of our genie-to revert
to him-were clapped at 8 o'clock and
the procession Of old clothes men
summoned by that signal has taken
perhaps half hour to reach its des-
tination. Now look along 18th street
see what has happened to 1t In those
thirty minutes. 1t has been trans
formed into a second hand clothes
market which, so far as the writer
knows, has only one competitor in the
WOTIu AOu0p IA
chapel, London.
Submerged In Sea Of Clothes.
Old clothes and shoes are lying in
piles on gunny sacks spread on the
street and the sidewalks. Pushcarts,
wagons and boxes have been converted
into shops. Fence rails have been
pre-empted by the first corners for the
display Of their merchandise, stoops
and steps Of the householder have
been pressed into service by these per-
ambulating shopkeepers. In fact, the
long but crooked line Of one end two
story cottages, twisted awry by their
own poverty and the years, no longer
engage your attention, which ut first
they arrested. They have been sub
merged under this sea Of old clothes,
gathered garment by garment through
the week in all parts Of Chlcngo by
these thrifty, energetic residents OF the
Ghetto and contributed In 30 many
waves as It were to this mighty min
Cling Of old woolens.
Nor II this once-a-week market,
which has concentrated here out Of the
necessity Of the case and largely be-
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

4 UTHORITIES state that shortly
~ after the publication of The
. Arabian Nights the genii be-
- cama axtinct What hOsh
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23
STOCKHOLDERS NOTICE

To the Stockholders of the Cashier
Gold Mining & Reduction Company:
In accordance with the resolution
Of thee Board of Directors of the
above Company, adopted May nth.
1918, you are hereby notified that a
special meeting Of the stockholders
of the Cashier Gold Mining & Re-
duction Company will be held at the
principal office of the Company in
the City of Central City. Colo. on
the 21st day of June, 1918, at one
o'clock n. m.
The purpose Of this meeting being
to vote for or against the adoption
of the resolution of the Board Of Dir
ectors that bonds of the Company
be issued for the purpose Of raising
necessary funds, and that same be
secured by a mortgage upon the real
estate, plant and equipment of the
Company.
Dated this 18th day of May, 1918.
VIM. MUIR,
President.
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

Grand total ---- 4lS4.24
FRANK G. MOODY,
County Clerk
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

cause 1t could 60 nowhere else. alto
gether to the liking Of the occupants
of the cottages aforesaid. noticed,
for instance, as jostled my way from
spot to spot, an old fellow, stOOp-
shouldered, hollow-chested and white
bearded as his patrlarchal fOrebears
who had squatted with his packs on
the front steps of freshly-painted
cottage. He symbollzed the eternal
wanderer Injured to his lot by wise
acceptance of the utter impossibility
Of escape from it and who is content
II he can snatch but a moment be-
tween whlles Of the long rest that is
both the reward and the just portion
Of old age.
But even this scant tarrying by the
way Is denied him. From the window
Of the second story the head Of a Wig
orous old woman protrudes and she
shrills down at him: us it for trash
like you that pay $25 for painting my
cottage?
"Must I sweep up the old shoes and
paper and dirt you leave behind, oh,
impudent one? Why don't you sell
your filthy rags in the swell neighbor-
hoods where you buy them? Get out !
Ten curses rest on you for everyone
Of your years! VIII you go or shall
l send for the police"
Solemnly he shakes his white hend.
By the written laws that govern real
estate the cottage is hers; by the un-
written laws established by the market
the steps are his for the day. He
stands on his rights, turning deaf
ear to her stream Of Obloquy. So she
adopts more effective measures and
drenches him and his precious stores
with buckets of water, tossed forth
with swift and unerring hands. His
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23
NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION
(The Gilpin Observer)

Department. Of the Interior,
U. 8. Land. Office at Denver, Col
orado. April 9. 1918.
Notice Is hereby given that Flor
ence ]. Carter, Of Buffalo Creek.
Colo, who, on May IA. 1914, made
Homestead Entry, No. 01SS14 begin
ming at Cor. No. /, whence the Cor.
of Secs. 20, 81, % and 20. T. 8 s..
r. II w. bears s. l. g. w. 9.61 chns
dist. and the Y Cor. bet. Secs. 20,
81, bears N. l. 26' E., S0.0S
chns. dist; thence s. rs 03' W..
1915 chns. to Cor. No. 2; thence N.
AZ AZ w. Gas chns. to Cor. No. 3;
thence N. &C. or e. 20.32 chns. to
Cor. No. 4; thence N. &C. or E..
27.03 chns. to Cor. No. s; thence s..
29' 90 E. 100 chns. to Cor. No. 6;
thence s., So 49, w.. 1888 chns. to
Cor. No. Z; thence 8. To- o. W., 4.31
chns. to Cor. No. /. the place Of be-
ginning; all in sections 20 and 81, T.
8 8. R. II W., embracing 44.96 acres,
has filed notice of intention to make
3-year proof to establish claim to the
land above described, before Regis
ter or Receiver, United States Land
Office, Denver, Colorado, on the 18th
day of June, 1918.
Claimant names as witnesses:
J. w. Green, Buffalo Creek, Colo.
E. E. Culver, Buffalo Creek, Colo.
J. P. c. Dickinson, Buffalo Creek.
Colo.
B. w. Spencer, Pine, Colo.
MARY WOLFE DARGIN,
Register.
LIST pub. APR. %; last May 80, 1918.
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

weeks wOrk-SuStennnce perhaps for
family, home and himself-are gone.
1t is too much for even his stOical spir-
1t and he weeps.
All Natlonallties In ThronQ.
You are deeply sorry for him, but in
this Kaleidoscope scene which appeals
to so many emotions none can abide
for long. Curiosity captures you and
you are tugged on against your will to
see how and to whom IRE disposed all
the clothes that Chicago casts Off.
Greek, italian, Slav-members of the
various clans that make Halsted street
so cosmopolitan and picturesque
move through the clamOring hosts that
would thrust bargains on them. The
color Of particular suit strikes the
fancy Of blond Norseman. He takes
off his own coat and tries on the prof
fered garment. Does 1t At? The plas-
ter. says the salesman, fits the wall no
better. Now the price remains for con-
sideration. At $1.75 for a suit which
he is assured he could buy nowhere
else for S12 this possible customer
balks. The lining is torn too badly for
all the kings thread and all the kings
needles ever to put It back into shape.
Your salesman grants this willingly.
He swears he Is no liar and has not
time to deny the obvious. But, after
all, what does one want with lining in
such hot weather., 1t is a suit made
for the Zephyrs Of summer and not the
blasts of winter. Tear out the lining
look on 1t as II 1t were not-and the
suit may be had for SIPS. Thus the
bargain is concluded and you have an
insight into manners and methods.
You wander onward through the
ever thickening crowds, refusing to
seize time by the forelock and pur.
chase winter coats at summer prices.
But others. and especially secondhand
dealers, whose stores are scattered
throughout the city, are more alert
than yourself and snap up these bar.
gains.
Gilpin observer., 1918-05-23

4 UTHORITIES state that shortly
~ after the publication of The
~ Arabian Nights the genii be-
came extinct. What bosh. I
know for certainty that one of that
superhuman race makes his appear
ance every Sunday morning at 8
o'clock. weather permitting, at the cor
ner Of 18th and Jefferson streets,
writes I. K. Friedman in the Chicago
News. Here for a minute, though In
visible, he takes his stand. claps his
hands and then presto - what q
transformation has BEEN worked!
The windows of the little dyeing
and cleaning shops that hug Jefferson
street are flung open and piles of sec
end hand clothlng-''fxed" and "un-
fixed" as the Yiddish signboards pro-
claim-come sailing down on tire side
walks and the pavement of the road.
One-horse wagons laden with old
clothes push their way slowly eastward
from Halsted street, wheelbarrOws
freighted with cast off garments COM
pete for place with pushcarts piled
high with the same merchandise while
other enterprising hands have fash
Toned crude vehicles out of soap boxes
and discarded pairs of bicycle wheels
to trundle more Of these old wares
hither.
The less fortunate, white and black
bearded men and stout youths, whose
legs are the only machines granted
them to overcome the inertia Of mat
ter, totter along, bent double by the
heavy packs Of discarded wearing ap-
parel they carry on their backs. Here
and there a son or a wife, coming to
the assistance of the breadwinner Of
the family, drags along the surplus Of
the goods in crippled valises, bags and