Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-10-06

English for htc jupo tonncHu. It Is
nj go decided that II rpOIls an al,
most straight line, and when skirt
II drapcd upward and backward, II
lS done In subtle and slender man
n"r that docs not interfere with the
flatness ana straightncss Of WON
ans figure from head 10 heels II
merely gives her a hit more grace
80 the designers think
II IL those drhpCd skirts which the
Americans put out in June and wore
IN August mat are stil very much
N" thing They have no bustl" cf-
irct, amt their n,urTOwness nj the
hem is comfortably obviatcd hy nn
inset, fau-shapod plratlng nt the
back which gives tn" feet entire free
dom of movement.
Yet considering these now fash
ions ana realizing that they arc pos-
sihl" winners In the race for a
settled fashion by THANKSGIVING. tho
absorbing fact remains that the me
diHcval gown is rampant.
The long Ch"mise tunic II not as
smart is the Chrmise frnck. In
run, there Rrc many houses that
viii not handle the long tunic al All,
aud yet they lay great stress upnu
IA" long cuat which has exactly the
same effect
IN" short iuuir however. with itg
'ncdtNcl waistliuc. il ono nny rnll
So slight an iudentatiuu nf the sur.
race, 10y the name Of wpistIlur. Ia rX-
roedinElv goni n ls shown on "a great
majority ut American and French
models This tuulc might be called
IN" foundation stone OF autumn
coStnmery. for ils lines arc used for
Il Jacket To- a plaid skirt. cuirass
blouse 10 hc worn with or without
stpagIic skirts or unr-ti"rr frpr!ts
II hangs Imply down thte figure to
a circular line half way between
knees aud hips It's hem g. Irregular.
hs III h"ms are. even on many Of the
new sleeves. But this H. true of II.
and II is sfeI ificant fact. that no
matter how II Is made. or OF what
material II carries with IL IN exceed
inEIy narrow skirt. We have never
worn lust such skirt AZ We will
wear this autumn, ana it H. at itg
best under this short, mcdiaeval
tunic
Certain Dcbatablc Fashions.
II a woman bases her autumn
purchasing on these fundamental
facts of Costumcry, she may not go
far wrong for by this time. shc
knows what tho good materials nrc
as well as the proper combinations
OF peltry and various fabrics. hut
she may not be- aware uf the fatnl
facility that certain fashions hive
shown for "vcr-popularity. She may
want to avoid them for that reason,
or she may want to adopt them. It
all depends upon her viewpoint and
attitude of mind toward popularity
as It is expressed In any form.
There are women who want every
thing their neighhOrs possess There
are women who wish TO make them
selves as nearly as possible a replica
OF all the other women who COnsti-
tute the majority. They feel that
they are then success. other
women, whole sectors of -them,- go
against popularity with the strength
OF mollusk. They would rather
stand stlll than go forward with the
avoid this autumn, II they run true
TO form, will be fringe and the ma
chine -pleated accordion skirt.
Ai'i . hl ~ l'N Tll'I NlNNh'NF ANA"'
do not display one or both. and the
price ranges from $40 To 500 for the
garment. When fringe first came
into being, It was heraldcd by all
OF us as "A new touch. and good
one: but those who have been COM
pclled to observe the incoming fash
ions from day after day and hour
after nour, have found their eyes
Al Ill q 1,a lob nf
a gown with fringe.
The same IL true Of the narrow, ne
Gordon pleatel skirt II * strange
that this fashion did not burst into
fun bloom when II was advanced
last February. A New York designer
put out many suits with this skirt
which clung To tho figure AS though
we were back In the days of That's
OF Alexandria. But tho mass did not
take II up, Then, all OF a sudden, on
the first OF September up spranR
this accordion plcated skirt. usually
black, with tunic instead OF
redingoto over II. The original one
carried redinBote, you may re-
member.
The most daring exhibition Of this
shirt was made in u white suit OF
which tn" short tunic was breadClOth
and the long, tubplar skirt crepe do
chine worn over white silk tights.
The fact that the woman who wore
II was as conspicuous as n fire or a
parade Of soldiers, seemed to have
no effect on her COmposure. II this
Is 70 bc ono of the new styles, IL Is
quite well for us 10 shake ourselves
and recall that We are not back in
/. l.. a. n 81.
Josephine de Beauharuais does not
rule.
The truth is that these accordion
plcated, transparent skirts are shown
n lining, and a woman must
work out her own salvation II she is
10 wear one. And the best part OF !t
Is that they are exceedingly graceful
when properly arranged over "A thin,
supple. tight lining OF satin
However, II you wish to he out OF
he procession Of popularity, pass
hem by.
Wool Embroidery an Epidemic.
Ranking with fringe as an omni-
present fashion IL wool embroidery.
There IN small chance Of avoiding
I, however. and no real necessity for
H. II is ubiquitous, II r. true, but II
has "A certain trickery Of appeal that
no one can resist
II is never the same Tho art OF the
twists and turns II into
4 vast variety Of picHslng pictures.
rhe French gowns show it In every
'orm that their artist cmbroiderers
an invent
II IL MIXED with metal and silk;
I Is dyed in rare and wOndrous col
,rs. II is lifted from the surface or
,ullel fatty against IL; it is used in