The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-10-20

w FELL, we are settled as Ear as
M/ the fashions go. The design
ers have done their work;
how Is the time for us TO do our work.
The public insists that it has the
harder job, or at least that is the con-
cluslon one reaches after hearing the
discussions of countless women over
the purchase Of u single garment.
II is not easy to buy clothes in war
time, when the slogan of judicious
spending echoes and reechoes from
every point OF the compass. Even
poverty has rarely impressed upon us
with such drastic emphasis the need
60 spend wisely and well.
There has been a story current for
two decades among the French design
ors that the American women are not
helpful to them, except through their
money power. for the reason that they
do not approach the choosing and pur-
chasing OF clothes with that watchful
discrimination displayed by the French
woman. They buy a gown because It
as in fashion or because II is the kind
OF thing their men folk like, or be-
cause they have seen 1t on some ex-
cessively smart woman at a res
taurant.
No French woman buys for any OF
these reasons. She does not take the
purchasing of clothes lightly. 1t Is
not a casual thing to be sandwiched
I'm between u committee meeting and a
card party.
She makes an appointment. she ar
rives on time. she is closeted with
as many OF those in authority at the
dressmaking house as her purse and
prestige command. She accepts sew
eral fittings and is not impatient, re-
bellious or cross while they occur. She
bargains for the price of the gown, she
Investigates under sunlight and cleo
trio light the quality of the material
she has chosen, she debates, discusses,
tries out and finally agrees upon a de-
sign that Is peculiarly suited TO her
figure, her environment and her social
opportunities.
The American wouan's quick conf
ment Is that she wouldn't take so
much time for anything as trivial as a
dress. She argues that it is a waste
of time. She orders half dozen
gowns while the French woman or
ders one, and usually she finds that
i've out Of the six chosen in that hap
hazard manner are wrong. She QUAR-
reIs with the dressmaker, she hates
the clothes, she gives them away to
her poor relations or she sells them
20 q theatrical house.
Now, in the name OF all clever ad-
5ustrnent Of finance. who is the better
buyer? She who regards the expendi-
ture Of 800 as something to be sert-
ous1y considered and worked out to a
happy result, or she who considers the
expenditure of thousand dollars Of
SO little importance that she frets be-
cause the designer asks her to stand
still and try out different colors?
II some doctrine could only be
burned into a woman's consciousness
which would compel her to speed
money wisely She is handling funds.
and usually they are the funds Of an
other party, and she has no right to
toss them into the Golfers Of the dress
maker, the grocer. the interior deco
rator or the butcher.
Now II Is wOman's Turn.
Since the first of July the French
and American designers have worked
un6et conditions that have never be-
fore arisen. and under the pressure OF
an anxiety and nervousness that it
was impossible to assuage.
America was trying to stand Oh her
own feet in designing. while she held
on with both hands to France. TO
whom she must always look for steadi-
ness and support and to whose dress
makers she must never cease to be
grateful, or she will prove herself I'M
worthy of the name that France has
given to this country in the last year.
The dye situation was puzzling and
Insecure. The labor deficit caused by
the draft threatened shipwreck to
many industries in women's apparel
In France the sewing girls went to
ruunition factories, and the coloTists
were dead or in the trenches.
Mile. Bertha, as the French call the