davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07
NO BAN ON STYLES
Infinite Variety and Nom A.,
- Built Alike.
Straight and Narrow Most Pron,i,...
With Only Sign Of Any Breadth
at Waistline.

The dresses are the great acb,0-.
ments of a season that is StiU vor,e
Among them there is an infinite vav,
ETY. and no one is built exactly m.
the last one. For general lines tbos
use these that are straight and narro,s
the only sign Of any breadth being sao1
at that unexpected place, the waistIina
The line Of the waist has also dronno5
perceptibly and no more do we seq a.
the daytime frock that waiStline tb,,
starts from a point somewhere ma.
the arms. More likely is ii to he a..
running around the hips or S0mer,,.
above them-never an inch aboysn.
normal placing.
The coat dress Is new-and uSusA
In the extreme. II is tailored oni,,
formally. but 1t has probabilities "a.
the insertion Of feminine diversion.
that add much to its interest. Tbs,a
Is one, for instance, made of the ponn.
lar blue serge, that Is wrapped about
the form from shoulder to hem. The
only variety il shows Is where ona
side of the skirt laps over the Otbp,
when there suddenly appears a Sof,
satin lining of vivid green tone.
Another one is made of duh green
velours, chemise Uncut and with wide
open kimOno sleeves. At the waistlipe
by way of a belt, a narrow piece N
skunk fur is seen, and, to repeat this
note of black, another bit of the fur 1,
used at the left side of the standing
collar, where 1t buttons tightly under.
the ear.
Many Of the collars on these dresses
are made high and thick in appear.
ance. None of them fit the neck as in
seasons past.
1t Is almost necessary now to use
two materials in the shaping of a mod.
ish frOck. The idea was started from
a thought of conservation and it sur.
wives largely because of its sheet
beauty. For afternoon and dinner
gowns, printed silks and chiffOns are
used In combination with plain silks
and chiffOns. Then for more wOrka.
day occasions combinations of wool
and silk are more usual.
The straight fiat panel is one of the
successes of the day and is seen in
every possible phase. Usually, though
it must hang from shoulder to hem at
back, without any interruption as to
waistline. In the front, however, /,
may be confined or not according to
whim or taste.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07
Wells ARE NOW THE RAGE
nenee That Has Not Been EquaIed
in Many Years.

In looking over present modes, notes
q fashion correspondent, we can sure
ly say that the accidentals seem to be
more important than the key itself.
Take wells, for example. Perhaps you
have not been addicted to wells for
some time. No matter. This year
you will go out and buy yourself one.
Wells are now raging with a virulence
not known for many a day. For morn
ing wear those of the best taste are
1ne mesh varieties, often with a
georgette hem attached with French
knot variety. For more elaborate oc-
casiOns this accessory becomes more
and more skittish.
Thus we have all sorts and condi-
lions of hens for wells. II may be
chenille clover leaves with Jet bios
SONS, 1t may be ostrich blue embroid-
cry, and again, your hem is apt to be
edged with duvetyn matching the
duyetyn Of the turban. Another pop
ular conceit at present IL to border
the veil with the same material and
color which face the hat brim. So
one can take the black veil with hen
ma or with taupe. There is no end of
fiayorings for this accessory.
Hats, too, are doing much to enliven
the dress world. Feather tams are
seen occasionally now. So is the hat
trimmed with cock feathers-a pleas
ant little souvenir of the gay Italian
bersaglieri who, with their fiuttering
plumage. marched down the avenue
during the Liberty loan drive. Many
of the smartest hats are of black and
some Of them show little trimming.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07

prefer eating IN. mass. but becauss
they live In buildings connected with
these communal eating rooms as the
easiest way out Of the servant prs0-
lem, the pressure to dress for dinner
Is too strong to be resisted, but spe-
cial kind of costume has been invented
for this hour growing up out Of the
situation. 1t Is the whole balance Of
demand and supply which governs
progress.
And there has come about over here
still another fashion, the revival Of
an old one, which is the use Of an elab-
crate tea gown for those hours given
over TO the family and, possibly, few
intimates, in the evening. This, too,
saves the more formal evening clothes
and It spares the street gown
There lies the crux Of the situation:
to spare the better class Of clothes.
New and coIorfuI Tea Gowns.
When a fashion gets good Roadway,
variety in design and ingenuity keep IT
rolling. Now that the women with
their seamstresses follow the dress
makers in achieving cleverness in
these tea gowns that have nothing In
common with wrappers the fashion is
well established and new glOries re-
modelled from past glory is quite the
boast of the average woman. To
achieve something colOrful and clever
in this line is woman's favorite indoor
sport this season. As the winter ad-
vances the costumes take on more bril-
liancy and depth and velvet Is con-
stantly used, IL not as an entire robe
then as a voluminous coat that keeps
one warm.
Many of these long coats are as vivid
as those worn by the Slavs and metal
is laviShly used. The foundation robe
is of chiffon over taffeta or satin and
several colOrs throughout. One of the
foolish fashions is to follow the French
trick of cutting the sleeves short, leav-
ing the arms exposed. No one knows
why Paris found herself disposed to
try out anything as foolish as this dur
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07
0ILCL0TH FOR GAME TABLE
Substitute for Linen Now in Marked
Demand and Serving Numerous
Good Purposes.

The vogue for using Oilcloth, or any
one of the new compositions which 90
under the same name, in place of linen
is growing apace. And now comes the
most serviceable game table cover of
the oilclOth stenciled in the corners
with appropriate designs. The advan-
tage Of such a cover can easily be ap-
preciated when one considers how easy
1t Is to wipe of the cover with a damp
cloth after a strenuous game. Tapes
stitched across the corners tie 1t to the
legs Of the table.
And again comes oilcloth in the very
place where you might expect<o find
it-for a tablecloth and bib for the
Riddle. This time the sanitary mate
rial is light biscuit color and is STEM
ciled In brown with nursery charac-
tiers. A band Of the brown paint
around the edge Of bib and tablecloth
is really only a place cloth,
large enough to fit the tray of the high
CHARTS the only finish necessary.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07

terless black of mourning. but black
satin and velvet and fine black
velOurs.
The semitailOred street frock
shown in the sketch would be smart
made of black velvet embroidered In
color and with a touch of color on
the collar. sleeves and belt. The skirt
Of this dress, while straight, shows a
cleverly arranged fullness, with the
upper part gathered in to the deep
straight band at the foot
The dress fastens at the left front
and on the shoulder.
Inasmuch as a great deal of fur
is being used as a trimming for street
dresses this season, the frOck shown
would be handsome made of velvet In
black or color with wide skirt band,
girdle, collar, and cuffs of a fat fur
such as Hudson seal, beaver, nutria,
squirrel, kOlinsky, etc. II fur Is used
to trim the dress a muff and little fur
tOque to match may be supplied, and
a charming outfit be the result.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07
The Vogue Of the Panel.

The vogue for loose flying panels on
dresses seems to be increasing as the
season develops. At first confined to
the back, there loose and full-length
panels are seen now on both front and
back Of formal, semiformal and after
noon frocks. They are frequently Of a
material different from that In the body
Of the dress and sometimes are Of a
different color. The combination Of sat
In and serge Is seen a great deal and.
where the dress is all silk, the body Of
the garment may be Of a shiny ma
terial while the panels are duh finished
though OF the same color.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07

ably by saying that such a custom did
not1nterfere with the work of the day,
as everyone rested after eating and,
usually, retired early.
The American world is getting along
though in the cosmopolitan idea Of
having its most substantial meal after
the activities OF the day are over in
order that comfortable digestion may
take q leisurely course and the mind
be allowed TO rest from its labors.
We are learning that a full stomach
and a keen brain do not go together
and when our millions of soldiers re-
turn from a land where dinner is an
established pleasure of the evening the
homes Of the country will probably
change the dinner hour without real
king that 1t is overturning a simon
pure Americanism.
Dressing for Dinner.
Whether or not the division between
those who dress for dinner and those
who do not, viii be closed up, must be
left to chance. It Is a custom that
grows with wealth and social sur
roundings. 1t is not so much the
choice Of the individual as the set in
which one moves.
Women are like sheep, In that they
do whatever their friends do, as a
rule, and follow the established rules
Of the herd. It is primal reasoning.
or instinct, this, and few people break
away from the accepted and uncriti-
cized customs of that particular mass
Of which they are units.
In some of the most cultured COM
munities 1t is the habit. for instance,
to make a fresh toilet In the late af-
ternoon, one which serves for the late
dinner or supper that follows and
these very people may, and usually
do, get into gayer and more formal
clothes for some evening entertain
ment that begins late. They keep
their decoIlete clothes for the public
and not for their own family.
Amopg that great and increasing
mass who speRd their eating hours In
public restaurants. not because they
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07

ing time when coal IS di.Ecul. 10 geS
and leather for gloves almost prohibit
tive. Don't adopt II. Cut sleeves long.
When One Leaves the House.
All tea gowns are not after these
elaborate designs, however, so the
woman who could and would not wear
such costumes AT her table and in the
sitting room, can find plentyNo of admir-
able ideas for the demonstrating of
ancient and honorable dance clothes
into more demure house gowns. The
idea is rampant. 1t is left to the in
diyidual to work it out according &c
her purse, inclination. environment.
Reaction Always Follows.
This is natural. Anyone who viii
read the past as a means Of appre-
ciating and understanding the present
and immediate future will learn much
that otherwise will seem new and I'M
precedented. All periods Of depres.
sion and repression have been followed
parel, and often in mems clothes as
well. 1t was the tremendous swing
Of the pendulum away from the rigid
sway and reign Of death and privation
OF Cromwells domination over Great
Britain that brought about the excess
es In apparel for which the reign of
Charles III was conspicuous.
As one clothes historian tells US, IL
was the saving of material and all
other extravagances during CrOmwell's
era that amassed the fortunes that
went toward the utmost follies in
clothes during the restoration. 1t may
be that we viii see the same sort Of
reaction 1t happened1n Paris after
the allies finally defeated Napoleon,
and the duke Of Wellington, with his
colleagues, occupied Paris. Those
were exciting days Of pleasure, Lady
Shelly says In her letters. and women
Of all countries went into the greatest
excuses In clothes and gayety. So It
Is better 10 be warned by history a.
10 what 30 expect
Copyright 1s12 by Mcclure Newspaper
Syndieate-l
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1918-12-07

Simple yet extremely becoming Is
this bIJou waist Of flesh georgette. The
double collar Of knife plating, the
turnbaek cuffs, held by bows Of MORE
silk and the box pIaits with an inter-
esting line Of hemstitehing through
the center are items worthy Of note.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
Three Big Wall
Paper Bargains
For Wednesday

For Wednesday we will continue
our special sale on wall Paper.
Hero you will find any kind, any
pattern. any color OF Wall Paper
YOU desire for prices that don't
seem reasonable
Wall Paper for parlor. hall. bed
room ana kitchen In various col
ors. all matched with cut out.
wilde and narrow borders (sold
with borders) Special, IL
the ron '''''.'.. ..-s..''',.. IN
Plain Oatmeal Pnpcr--3O inches
wide In every wanted color (sold
with borders and btndersJi 25c
grade. special, n
thc ron .,.'......... ........... ~
Beautiful Tapestry-Rlends. Jaspe
stripes. high grade bedroom flor
ais and stripes. the very newest
designs and colorings; Acc 1c
value, special, the roll..,.. lOC
fifth Floor
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
LAWYERS WILL GIVE
SERVICES TO SOLDIERS
Members Of Oklahoma State bar As
sociation VIII untnnglc
Points OF Law.

In n letter to The Tulsa World e.
G. McAdams, president Oklahoma
state Bar association. says
Please permit me thru your paper
to inform all soldiers who are now
serving in the armies and navy of tile
United states, aad their families. that
the Oklahoma state Rar association
tenders to all such soldiers and their
families who are unable TO employ
counsel by reason OF their services In
the armies and navy OF the United
states the services OF said association
thru it's executive committee. COM
posed Of myself. Walter A. Lybrand,
Oklahoma city; Geo. Rlttenhouse,
Oklahoma city; Frank NJ. Bailey.
Chlckashn: j. g. Rails. 'Atoka; c, O.
RIake, lei Reno G. q. Moore, Purcell;
C.. X. Templeton. Pawhuska.
"rhe services herein rendered may
be had by applying to any member OF
the executive committee, who will
take pleasure Ia furnishing counsel
to any such soldiers or theI fami-
lies"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
Sheer Dainty Bl0uSeS
Marked LOU for the White Sale

The dantes OF
for the white IA models
the Here
few OF the
LOT lLeanufu Wolfe Waists trimmed with hct and Venice
lace and hand cnbroidery
In high OE
f2bO values ID DI.JeD
LOT DAINTY waists wolfe basto trimmed
Of hand oidery
and pearl buttons high OE
and unusual slecvs regular F330 values tDZ.JC
Other beautiful voie
specially IL
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

Stop using calomeil II makes you
sick, Don't lose days work. II you
feel lazy. sluggish, bilious or consti-
pated, listen 10 mel
Calomel Is mercury or quicksilver
which causes necrosis of the bones.
Calomel, when IL comes into contact
with sour bite. crashes into IT, break
ing II up. This is when you feel that
awful nausea and crRmpfng II you
arc "Rll knocked out" II your liver Il
torpid and bowels corstipated or you
have headache, dizziness. coated
tongue. II breath Is bad or stomach
sour. Just try spoonful Of harmless
Dodson's Liver Tone.
Here's INV gJlarantee--Go to any
drug store and get n bottle of Dod-
sons Liver Tone for q few cents. Take
. spoonful tonight. and II IL doesn't
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
Just Once! Try Dodson's Liver Tone!
Take No CaIomeI! Listen To Me!
If bilious, constipated, headachy sick guarantee
relief without taking dangerous calomel
which sickens and salivates

straiShteu you right up and make N"l
feel fine and vigorous by morning ,
want you to go back 10 the store an"
get your money. Dodsou's Liver rome
Ia destroying the sale OF calomel u'-
cause u is real liver medicine, en-
tirely vegetable. therefore 1t can not
~alivate or make y~u sick.
guarantee that one spoonful o'
Dodson's Liver Tone Will put your
sluggish liver to work and clean you
bowels ot that sour bile and consul
pat0d waste which is clpeEtng Eour
system and making you feel nls"rHh hle
guarantee that bottle OF l)udsnh
Liver Tone win keep the entire IAN
ily feeling fine Tor months OhI2 "
TO your children. n Is harmless'
doesn't grlps ara they Ike ~ pleA@-
ant taste ADV.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

men were selected absolutely on the
record they made since they were
drafted, and the oklahoma brigade
alone has l23 men.
The camp will last three months, is
In charge of a regular army officer
and will be conducted exactly along
the lines OF the training camps for
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

officers started last spring. The men
have the status OF cadets and II they
get through successfully will be com
missioned as second lieutcnantE
Men from Tulsa enrolled are John
], McMurray, who was formerly WIN
the Producers oil company John w
McCuen and Grover Barnett
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

ln Australia nn1 Nrw Zealand tho
sporting fraternity hdH thkeu Ftopa TO
lmmprttli6o the nHtuo uf Bob fluim
mons. undoubtedly the grcntert boxer
that oyor duuuod the padded mits, by
building o. monument 10 him
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

dent. y oGlcun N Ardmore. vice prcsl'
dent. and T. " Gibbs ~ oklahoma
CIy. secretary Treasurer
The HHtc wua th'u divlded into six
districts by tho nominating commit
tee. and tho following directors for
their respective disttioda wrT, elected,
to. direct tho work Df tho orFnulza
ton thcrc T. NJ ropc. Wood%hrd, ,
H. O.. Howard. Anus. it - Grass
ncld End. = iiudR" GNulH valley,
T. - EldrIdEe Colllu-vil". md a, u.
Davis nuruui
During tho afternoon ure4lon tho
by laws and constitution Of the Pr
sani2Bt,ou were adopted. m ~hich an
4,pst ptnaidcfirr prcsld"ntA. aocreiatl's
ana assistant HcorcIprirs ~ CONNER
olal organizations m" made c'~lhl'
Tor mcmhsrship lu ih' state oiEnnl-
ptiou
A l.. Farmer slpt, dlr.olor NJ the
tnitcd sDt,a liuyA Working Res~rNc.
made Il short UldrcHH lcl"rr the com
mrrDinI nr,rpturlra ps'd asked th"lt
90 operation lu tho WORK winch he ~
doing Iu this .AiD boo the Wu} pf fl-
thug bptp uf school nr" 90 take. tho
places BOO tuc prIda hcd factories. ieft
vacant Do. gIou wine hpN" been called
~ war
Pledged tn Government
Muun,r- of tho Cknhoma Conn
mcrr'n Executives association adopt
ed o. resolution. placing tho entire re-
rourc.a ol tho organization behind
the efforts pf the Chpmhcrr of Com
moro, of rb, lultrl states In aiding
the gU,uuuout boo war work
nm. ....t .....t.,... I'D. tIu ,rs,rtva .
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

The housewives of Tulsa and vicinity for many miles around
have looked forward with keen anticipation January
White Sale. This year better than ever supplied
with fresh snowy linens and undermusns of quality and
character to delight the housewife who takes pride in her
wardrobe and linen closets and offered prices whose
surprising economy has an irresistible appeal.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
TULSANS ENROLLED IN NEW
OFFICERS TRAINING CAMP
Ing Special Course of Instruc-
ton at Camp Travis

Several Tulsa boys have been en-
rolled in the new officers training
course, which has been formed with.
In Camp Travis. known as the Nine.
teth Division training camp.
There are In the training camp 4gs
men, about one-half Of whom are
drafted men from Oklahoma. The
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

The poor and millionaire
are buying Var SdUing
Stamps. Buy yours to-
day. On sale here.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16
QuestiOnnaires Fail
TO Find Registrdnfs

Following is "A list or rcgisttants
hose questionnnlreH have been mailed
10 them by tho local board for the city
ol Tulsa, but In cpHes where delivery
~ tho blanks by the postal authorities
has failed because OF change In al
drcss Unless those questionnalrca are
claimed by their proper rcglstranta
within tho specified seven days, tho
reElstrants will be listed for military
service and viii he called upon at the
nsEt draft call unless an appeal "a the
district board " taken anf u IN Fhawn
that they have proper grounds for
exemption claims. The registranta
listed below have been returned 10 the
,ffcc or Mayor ] ~ Simmons. chhir-
man ~ tho Tulsa exemption board.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-01-16

William. John ! wright, Leroy
,vWi.r.Lh, Ia. a. walker turlsy NJ
,v,.Ihsr, Ira a Wilkinson, Frank
\N,it.r n.rt Woods, John w
yuc, Du, Yerkcy, Vie
y.nry Fliinh Young. Luke
YinyoGA, EgnlO
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-12-15
Music Notes

koscak Yamada, the celebrated jan
anese composer and conductor of the
Philharmonic Society of Toxic, Japan.
who is at present in America, will meet
the members of the Musicians Club, at
Ia West Twelfth Street, next Tuesday
evening at o'clock. He will speak on
Japanese music, past and present, with
illustrations by singers and dancers in
costume.
The Peoples Music League of the
Feople's Institute announces that the
chorus being formed under its auspices
by Ernest Bloch, the Swiss composer.
Will hold weekly rehearsals at the Man
haitian Trade School, Lexington Avenue
and Twenty-second Street, beginning
tomorrow night. All music lovers who
read music at sight are welcome as
members.
frlcda Hempcl, soprano; Merle AL
cock, contralto; Guiomar Novaes, plan
lst, and Jose Mardones, bass. will an
pear at Mr.. Bagby's musicale tomorrow
morning.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-12-15
Calendar for the Current Week

SUNDAYCarneg Hall, Society,
Aeoian Hail. the
Opera House. $3.50 oncert Hppodrome,
John Mccormack
of French chanons by Yvette Guibert Greenwich
recital by Vladimir
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
carnegie Hall S:5 the benefit
soldiers; Aeoan Hail. m,
8:15
m, Mr.. Bagbys Musical Morning.
IuESDAY-Carng Hail. 2:30
tra 8:5 panofore
m, pianoforte recital
WEDNESDAY,
etta"; Carnegie Hall, 8:15 VIOLIN
Edouad Gendron, Waldorf
the St Cecilia Club
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Opera House, p
Carnegie Hail. $3.50
concert by the Symphony
recital by GretaM Mason
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
Hall, Society," o. n
the Quintet
Bimore, Of
S5 of chamber the de
del Destino";
Carnegie Hail. 2:30
concert by the Symphony Society; Irving
School, rio de
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-12-15
BY the Composer

When Mr.. Winthrop Ames asked me
whether would be interested in writ
ing the incidental score for the produc-
ton of Maeterlinck's "The Betrothal."
and suggested an interview, had made
up my mind before l went to New
York. I had been considering the pos
sibility of using "The Blue Bird" as
the basis of an opera, but this newer
suggestion appealed to me as a better
task. read the script and talked with
Mr.. Ames. l found that his ideas of
an incidental score were similar to
mine-my belief and instructive expert
ence as a critic of the drama for the
now defunct Inter Ocean" having
given me an nkling Of the mechanism
of stage effect. That much settled, the
entire score was as good as done, ex-
cepting for the work. We both discarded
the "leit-motif" idea, agreeing that the
mood of each scene treated should be
taken fundamentally on its own emo
tional basis. When, normally and nat
urally, melodies seemed logically to
call for repetition, they were so used,
with due regard for variation and
elaboration.
For example, one melody is the basis
OF all the six "sweethearts'" entrances
for the six sweethearts, it seems to
me, are but so many individual mani
festations of one instinct. The six
characterizations, therefore, are mere
ly six variations on a short melody.
And the form, the spirit, the elan of
that little melody we're determined BY
the key" of the first swcetheart's
lines.
So it was with the two or three mo-