The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-27
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS
ANNE r,tgs,-ov.. FOR WOMEN
BY
ANNE RITTENHOUsE
The Girdle Is An Important Part of
each Frock, and the New Ones
Show Charm and Ingenuity.

New York=Wheneve one talks to
buyer who has returned from Paris,
the conversation turns on girdles. One
would think that the 10 great dress
makers of France had given their en-
tumery which wraps itself around the
waist.
This is an oriental attitude of mind.
In reading the history of fashions for
several centuries back, a student Will
find that every little attention was
given to the waist drapery. Every
other part of the costume received far
more attention. The monastic sim
plicity of twisted cord seemed to
satisfy most of the people during sew
eral centuries.
70 the waist itself good deal of
attention was given after the four
teenth century. 1t was compressed, it
was elongated it became corseted, it
was jewelled. but it was rarely
wrapped about.
THE RETURN TO NATURE
Probably Catherine de Medici did
more harm to the waist than any
other queen Of Europe, which was
quite in keeping with the rest of her
character. The compression of the
waist, which fashion she brought from
Italy, may have pleased her exquisite
young daughter-in-law, Marie Stuart.
but it is not easy to think that the
rest of the French women were de-
lighted in making themselves severely
uncomfortable.
However, this de Medici pleased pos
terity with her dictum for a small
waist, for the fashion continued
II rOI1srInIrt until 10
Antoinette laid down her head on the
scaffold, because for one reason, she
had paid too much attention to its
adornment
Instantly after the death of this
queen there was Jealous revival to
the uncorseted, unbound, unwrapped
waist. So France has just seesawed be-
tween the two fashions ever since.
Now we have a waistline as free
from adornment as that adopted by
Nine. Tallien and Nine. Josephine de
Beauharnais, the queens of the Direc-
toire.
Against this style, which by the way
is again pre-eminent, comes in the
loose frock with any Kind of girdle
that Grench or American ingenuity
can suggest.
GIRDLES DO NOT CONFINE
Whatever else the buyers tell you
about the new French girdles, they in
sist that they must not hold the waist
in for even an eighth of an inch. Their g
are no curves today. These girdles
are made of brilliant materials, and
tulle is one of the new fabrics that
has been chosen.
The gown in the sketch shows
skirt of taffeta in biscuit color, worn
with simple, round bodice of chiffon
in the same shade as the skirt. but
made more brilliant by it's embroidery
of gold. You will notice that the
sleeves are cut off at the elbow and
widened at the hem, and the reason
that you should notice it is it's i'm
portance. The short sleeve and the
round, half low neck have, to a great
extent, replaced the long, tight sleeve
and the high collar, which have been
entire failures.
The girdle on this frock is of bright
coral tulle. 1t is wrapped around the
waist in careless folds and knotted in
| that peculiar way which has become
=, fashionable throughout all costumery
! and which is taken from the sailors.
1t might be we'll to remember that
| it YOU wish to make half worn gown
without much character into a smart
| looking gown with character. you can
do it through the addition of one of
these brilliant new girdles. 1t is not
necessary to use tulle. A bit of col
ored satin, Chinese embroidery, even
chair upholstery or brocade curtains
may be wrapped about the waist and
| tied with or without ends