The Jasper news., 1918-12-19

hS tney once did the American chirt-
waist. These, also, were battlemented
at the hem. while ours are not. but
they also showed the full sleeves Of
the shirt beneath. In those days the
man chose the undershirt In broad.
yellow and red-barred stripes.
AS we wear this other coat, the bat
tlemented one with long sleeves. fas-
tened at the neck, but not below, the
effect Is good. It provides variant
from the accepted styles of Jackets. 1t
Is beltless, which Is fashion the
French designers are striving hard to
establish. The slim lines Of this coat
keep the widths from awkwardness
and the small armholes aid the clean
cut look.
sinuous Hips Of the Orient.
I It may be happy fact one that
gives cause for rejoicing that design
ers have no objection to punching
the countries when 1t comes to fash
ions. To put the oriental hip drapery
alongside the coat Of Cromwell ana
the chemise of Adele Of Lauvain Is
legitimate business.
All's well that once looked well,
might be their motto and they go on
making sartorial Tower Of Babel, for
II costume could speak, this Is what
would happen in any representative
gathering. The Orient is always too
seductive, too easy of imitation, to
escape constant usage; there may
have been periods in social history
when II would not have been posi-
BILE to persuade well-placed women to
appear in the clothes of the Temple
girls and those Of the Bazaars, but we
don't happen to belong to one of them.
We have stopped at some things In
the last six years, but we have gone
far, very far.
Sedateness has entered into costum-
cry during the last two years, but now
we may see q return to license In cos
tufnery that may make pre-war fash
ions appear anemic. Let us hope that
Joy won't be too unconfined.
II there is pleasing sedateness
with freedom from occurrences and
drabness, then we will see good cos
tunes. Already there Is a gracious
way of employing orientalism which
cannot be objected to by conserva-
tlves, even In the hip drapery whose
swathings are the sign and symbo! of
the Eastern dancers.
There is a tendency to combine col.
ored satin with black thread lace in
the oriental frocks, which takes away
the suggestion of the East except In
the swirl of fabric that goes about the
hips.
The Square Figure.
These are minor changes, however
important they may be to the mass of
women who have no intention of
swinging their clothes into every pro-
cesslon that passes, in comparison to
the subtle Transformation going on In
the contour of the figure. 1t is get
another blue ribbon Of victory to the
house of Callot who moves along
mysterious way toward changing the
fashion of the civilized world.
When Callot sent to this country
those primitive garments without belt,
or curve, cut straight from two pieces
Of cloth, or so it appeared, and sewed
up at each side, women simply uttered
an emphatic negative and pissed them
by. Even that little group of extrem-
lists which can be depended on to try
out everything once, at least, were too j
doubtful of the experiment to put
money in 1t. And yet here 1t is creep
Ing In among all the best gowns from
important houses and promised as the
ruling contour for spring.
Copyright. 1918, by Mcclure Newspaper
Syndicate.)