New-York tribune., 1918-02-17

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out combinations of materials and colors that
will continue to lure the coin from purses
The sketch shows gown which has all the
characteristics of ease and comfort. It is
made of black taffeta and white silk Jersey en-
broidered in black
by the way, do not forget, when you are
thinking out your spring clothes, that France
has put the blue tag Of priority on white jer-
sey as we'll as white satn
In this frock the jersey makes the medieval
tunic which, when it opens at the side and al
lows the underslip to disclose itself, goes back
to the early centuries for inspiration. This
underslip is of black taffeta, and the jersey
hangs in loose panel down the back from
shoulder to- hem. The belt which girdles the
front does not destroy the sandwich effect of
the back.
The Incoming
Waistcoats
The one-piecc frock, which is not medieval,
is made after boyish fashion and does not
exactly represent dignity 1t belongs to youth.
yet it is worn by middle age. The waistcoat
is its predominating feature
The sketch to-day shows a boyish frock.
which is made of dark blue serge and has
Walstcoat and rolling collar to resemble a
blouse, made of blue and white polka silk.
A White kid belt, slightly high-waisted in it's
line, loosely engirdles the jacket and buckles
IN front The sleeves are straight, long and
finished with turnover cuffs
The skirt is as straight in it's lines as old
Alexandria could have desired. 1t is short
and slim, but not ungraccful
The hat that is worn with this frock carries
out fashion that Paris has got her teeth
into and will not release. The brim is of blue
straw and the crown is of bright red. You
will see this kind of millinery everywhere in
the next few weeks
The Long Wasted
Effect
A large number of the new gowns in Paris
show two kinds of medi@valism. There is the
long line from neck to shoe tops, often un-
broken by belt, and there is the corselet idea.
taken from the military of that era. which
cnds at the hip line in irregular line.
1t is thought by the American BUYERS that
the latter idea is more becoming to the aver
age American figure and is more artistic on
the whole. IT woman has a large waist
this corselet hides it; if she has large hips, she
must be excessively. careful as to how. when
and where the corselet ends; if she is slender
and wishes to exploit this slimness to an adj
mlring world she runs the corselet up to her
chin and down to the waist and allows it to
wrinkle and fold itself around her figure in
an alluring way. If she is not quite sure of
the fact that this kind of corselet NAV be fasci
mating, she cuts it off at the neck, opens it at
the sides in genuine medieval manner and
drops it over pair of long or short sleeves
made of another material that matches the
underskirt.
The tricks in mediavalism are many AL
though we have been taught to believe that
our twelfth century ancestors went around in
the same kind of clothes year in and wear out.
all uniformly frocked.
Using Tremendous
Roses
A year ago few of the French designers
spashed immense roses on the surface of our
dark frocks. We were not sure that we liked
the idea Women who bought these gowns
were fearful Of wearing them too often, feel
ing as though thew were exnoitino a arietv