davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04

When you start out to buy d new
bit OF neckwear do remember that
one advantage Of the lovely neckwear
that we have nowadays Is that 1t can
be changed often enough SO that the
fabric coming about the neck Is al
ways immaculate. SO buy neckwear
that can be sent to the laundry when
ever necessary without being hurt.
Some of the prettiest bits Of neck
wear, 1t must be admitted. are foo
e,ecorate to be cleaned in the laundry,
and some loses all its charm of fresh
ness with its first Tubing. But, new
ertheless, unless you have a personal
maid and a big dress allowance, the
kind that can be tubbed is best.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
Serges, Wool veIours, Tricotines,
Among Favored Fabrics.
Styles IN Coats and Suits Arc Said
to Be Leaning Toward the Smart
~ Tailored Effects.

With the fall buying season fairly
under way, manufacturers of coats
and suits for women feel that they
are now In position to form fair
ly accurate idea as to what will be
the leading features for the coming
season, both as to materials and as
to the manner in which they are to
be worked up, says fashion writer
In New York Times. There are few,
IL any. new novelty materials avail
able for their purposes, and it seems
that for coats such more or less sta
pie fabrics as serges, wool velours,
tricotines, silvertones, and oxfords
Some plain and novelty pushes are
also selling. The leading suit mate
rails thus far and those which manu-
facturers believe will be the best
throughout the fall and winter. are
broadcloths, mems wear serges, tri-
cotlnes, and few pushes.
Styles In both coats and suits are
said to be tending Enthusiastically to-
ward smartly tailored effects. A Sc
verify and plalnness in this respect
which borders on the mannish are
creeping in, and partly for this rea-
son, 1t is thought, colors are usually
confined to the darker shades. While
this is given as the general direc-
ton In which styles are drifting,
there are, however, exceptions. Many
shades of tan are seen, ranging all
the way from sand to very dark
brown. There is also q liberal sprink-
ling in most lines Of such shades as
geranium red, French blue and Nile
green. This latter color, however, is
said to meet with only perfunctory ap-
prevail either in coats or In suits.
Some houses are featuring furs for
trimming on both coats and suits, but
many others are using furs sparing-
Iy. The majority opinion in the trade
seems to be that prices are already
high enough without the addition Of
expensive furs, and the early expert
ences In many showrooms. from all ac-
counts, have demonstrated that buyers
with but few exceptions concur in this
belief.
There seems to have been consider
able effort expended this season on
the development of new ideas in col
lars for coats, and quite few more
or less novel treatments have resulted
which are apparently pleasing to many
buyers.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
SKIM MILK Is BEST
UTILIZED BY FAMILY
Feed Only Surplus of Nutritious
Food to Live Stock.
None Of It, Either Fresh or Sour
Should Be Wasted-SuppIes More
Food Value in Preparing
Dishes for Table.

prepared by the United States Depart
ment OF Agriculture.)
1t Is generally understood that milk
is a good, nutritious food, yet on many
farms some skim milk Is fed to live
stock that could be utilized to better
advantage by the housewife in feeding
the family. 1t is cheaper and easier
to find an economical substitute for 1t
In feeding stock than in feeding human
beings. Skim milk should therefore be
used in home cookery first, in every
way possible, then if there Is any sur
plus 1t should be given to the young
stock on the farm 1t is needless to
cay that none of 1t, either fresh or
sour, should be wasted. When utilized
In preparing dishes for human con-
sumption 1t supplies more food valce
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
DRAPERIEs FOR WORN HATS
Georoette Crepe, Net, Chiffon and
Other Materials Aid Women In
Making Transformations.

Never was 1t so easy for the ordinary
woman not gifted with very much mill
linery skill to freshen up hat that Is
beginning to show wear as at the pres
ent moment, says fashion writer in
of draping hats with georgette crepe,
net, chiffon, ETC., makes it possible for
even woman rather lacking in skill
to achieve good results in adjusting a
trimming that will completely refurbish
hat that has served for part of the
summer. GeOrgette crepe draped
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04

prepared by the United States Depart
ment OF Agriculture.)
Wireworms are especially destruc-
tive to seed corn Ia the ground and to
the young corn and wheat plants. They
work entirely underground and are
among the most difficult to control OF
all the insect foes that afflict the farm
er. Much may be done, however, to
lessen their ravages by careful tillage,
drainage, proper rotation of crops, etc.
Wireworms are the young Of the
common swapping beetles, or click bee
ties, and the worms are yellowish or
brownish highly polished and slippery
to the touch. They move actively and
disappear rapidly when brought to the
surface by the plow or spade. The
eggs are laid in the ground, usually
In sod lands, where the young worms
are Matched. 1t takes three years for
most kinds of wireworms to get their
full growth and to become beetles.
Remedies for Wlreworms.
The most successful method for the
control of wireworms are cultural In
nature, 1t having been found impOssi-
BILE, or at least impracticable, to pol
son them by any known means.
Where 1t Is proposed to plant sod
land to corn the following year, to
prevent wireworm injury the land
should be plowed Immediately after
the first hay cutting, usually early in
July, and should be cultivated deeply
during the remainder of the summer.
Land already in corn which is badly
infested should be cultivated deeply,
even at the risk Of slightly root pruning
the corn. This should be continued
as long as the corn can be cultivated,
and as soon as the crop Is removed
the field should be TILED thoroughly
before 1t Is sown to wheat.
In regions where wheat is seeded
down for hay any treatment of = in
tested fields Is precluded. Where the
wheat is not followed by seeding to
other corps. the fields should be plow-
ed as soon as the wheat is harvested
This kills the worms by destroying
their food supply and preventing them
from preparing suitable sleeping quar-
tiers for the winter.
A thorough preparation of corn land
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
Ginohams Favored.

For those who do their bit and do II
by way of knitting and wearing glng-
hams, which is almost too easy way
OF doing 1t and should really not be
taken into consideration, are shown
the most attractive checked Bingham
plouses and bags and hats which do
or DO not match the bouses. The
mats ana bags are made of the most
delightful materials. which r1n all the
way from satin. o-snndie Sni crepe to
straw 81: fiber,
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04

than when fed to animals and convert
ed into meat. Surplus skim milk may
be used economically to feed hogs, yet
100 pounds of 1t, which will produce
Is pounds of cheese, produce only 4.8
pounds Of dressed pork if fed with
corn. Skim milk If made into cottage
cheese furnishes nearly seven times
as much protein and nearly as much
energy as the dressed pork 1t would
produce. OF course the most nourish-
ment is obtained when skim milk is
used direct, either for drinking or cook
ing. AS far as possible, therefore,
skim milk should be used for human
food, and only the excess fed to live
stock.
Buttermilk is equal to skim milk for
feeding hogs, while whey is half as
valuable. Whey, being low In protein
is not well suited for young pigs and
should be fed to older animals.
Ordinary grass pasture, or green rye
oats, sorghum, rape, clover, alfalfa,
peas or beans can take the place of
Skill IIlllh alter Tie HUE pigs get
start Much green feed can be raised
without greatly reducing the acreage
of other crops
Calves and pigs do well when some
skim milk is fed, but they need it only
for a short time and In limited Juan
titles. Except when fed to very young
animals, skim milk is fed most econom
ically when supplemented with grain
For dairy calves skim milk may be sub
stituted in part for whole milk on the
tenth day. If the calves are vigorous
they should receive little grain an6
hay at two weeks of age and it is safe
to discontinue the skim milk five or 81,
weeks later.
BY substituting grain. green feed
buttermilk and whey for skim milk II
animal feeding. much skim milk ma,
be released for use in cooking. for con
densing, or for making cottage cheese
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04

and liberal use Of barnyard manure
or other fertilizer Is recommended, and
vigorous stand may be produced
sometimes In spite Of the wireworms
by such treatment. Wherever pracN-
cable the interposing Of crops not ~
verely attacked by wireworlns, such sts
field peas or buckwheat, between sod
and corn tends materially to reduce
the number Of wireworms In the soil.
Some kinds Of wireworms live only
In badly drained land, and for this rea-
son thorough tile draining of such
fields is often very beneficial, especint
ly where the general condition Of the
fields Is improved by proper applica-
lions Of lime and thorough cultiva-
ton.
In the Northwest and northern mid
die West the dry-laM wireworm, pic
tured above, is very injurious. The
following methods have been found to
be valuable In the elimination Of this
pest: ~ Disk or drag harrow the
summer fallow as early as possible in
the spring In order to produce a dust
mulch and thereby conserve the accu-
mulated winter moisture; (2) con-
tinue the disking as often as Is neces-
sary in order to maintain the mulch
and keep down the weeds; (3) pillow
the summer fallow In July or early in
August and Immediately drag; az
pillow the stubble as soon as the crop
Is removed.
Avoid Fresh Sod.
Do not plant grain, and especially
! corn, on freshly broken sod land If
this can be avoided. To do so exposes
1t to almost certain injury by wire
worms, cutworms, and white grubs.
Plant such land first to soy beans,
cowpeas, clover, alfalfa, or buckwheat,
afterwards rotating to grain. The
growing of any one kind Of grain on
the same land continuously is sure to
result In damage from insect pests,
and lis bad agricultural practice Adopt
good system Of crop rotation suit
able to your particular region. If you
do not know the most approved sys-
TEN Of rotation for your locality, ask
your county agricultural agent or state
| experiment station for advice.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
New Excuse.

did You mail that letter gave you
yesterday"
"N-no, my DEAR l whistled to the
man In the postal airplane, but he
wouldn't come down after it,"
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
ELIMINATE GUESS WORK


prepared by the United States De-
partment of Agriculture)
The contrasting association
takes the guess work out of
dairying. No longer can the
camouflage of "a fine appearance
protect the low-producing dairy
COW. Conformation indicates
performance, but the Babcock
test and the milk scales always
tell the true story. Knowing
the true feed and production
records of each COW, the dairy
man practices selective breed
ing, eliminates with certainty all
low producers, and feeds the re-
mainder according to known
production.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
Unjust Criticism.
"Golng fishing?"

Going fishing?"
"Yes."
"Can you afford to LOAF in that
way?"
81 want to tell you that man who
can come home with several pounds
of fish for the family dinner is no
lOafer."
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
Helping the Land.

If you want to make your soil better
year by year you must cultivate welt.
drain well and in the most economical
way add humus and piantfoou-
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-10-04
Barley Easily Damaged.

Barley is easily damaged by the
weather. Wet days at cutting time,
poor shocking and over-ripeness will
reduce seriously the quality.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

There is much refinement In the
for ordinary and dressy wear, because
they are simple and depend upon fine
needlewOrk decorations for their fin
ish. The receipt for the artistic in
blouses demands simplicity and sim
plicity is interesting in proportion to
exquisite finish and originality in the
design of garments and their garni-
lures Women who are gifted with
fine sense of clothes are charmed with
the return of some Of the beautiful,
old-time ideas of decorative needle
work in the new blouses, inspired by
work that was all done by hand in
those. e.distant days when many women
occupied much Of their time with sew
ing. =
Bnt it happens that in modern YER
sions Of these old Ideas machine work
eften takes the place of handwork.
Even at that, considerable handwork In
basting as preparation for the machine
is necessary. Among the examples of
this are blouses in which small cord
IL introduced between two thicknesses
Of georgette crepe or other sheer ma
terial by fine machine stitching on
each side of the cord. This makes
fine ridges which are arranged in par
alleF lines, like pintucks at the front
Of the blouse and on the collar and
cuffs. Tiny crepe-coyered buttons fast
ened by loops of the silk cord finish
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09
HER WEIGHT IN GOLD.
An Aviator's Letter Tells What a Red
Cross Nurse Is Worth.

"As for the American Red Cross
well, | could never in a thou
sand years express my apprecia-
tion and admira ton of those
American women. | worship them.
| guess all the fellows do. The
first day came into camp-and
my morale was right low; I'll tell
you about it some time-well,
went into the American Red Cross,
and there, standing behind a nice
clean counter. was a little round
faced Red Crossie. She was just
beaming on every one. Imaginel
| never came as near making a
fool of myself in my life. l felt
like throwing my arms around her
and weeping for joy. AS it was,~I
managed to salt up my chocolate
a bit-only a drop or two that
couldn't help rolling off my cheek.
'If ever paint an angel it will
look just exactly like that little
Red Crossie. They would be
worth their weight in gold if they
did nothing but just be here"
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

these lovely blOuses. There is nothing
in them but the material and the work,
but they bring high price.
The blouse shown in the picture
above is somewhat less difficult to
make, but not less beautiful 1t is of
crepe georgette, but would be as effec-
tive in fine French voile or batiste.
A checker-board design is made by
basting on small squares of the fab
rfc at the front and on the cuffs of
the blouse and having them all out
lined with hemstitching. At each side
Of the band Of decoration made in this
way on the front of the blouse there
are groups of very small tucks. A
narrow band of bead trimming is ex-
tended across the front panel Of this
model. 1t would not be as appropri-
ate on a blouse Of voile or batiste
made In this way.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

if each woman gives little time sys-
tematically to Red Cross work and
looks after the conservation of food in
her own home, the great total Of
achievement will do the work and fill
needs depending on us. Our part Ia
easy compared to that of the soldiers
and sailors. 1t is amazing that there
are women, with time and means at
their disposal, who, because they have
no relatives in the army or navy, are
taking no interest, much less any ac-
tive part in the work to be done. They
are not worth fighting for, and should
be held up to the scorn they deserve.
Now is the time when cold selfishness
will hatray itself.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

For the occasions that require her
to dress-up bit there are pretty
frocks of crepe georgette and voile
that will make the little girl look her
best this summer. From her eighth
to her fourteenth or fifteenth year she
is apt to be very slim, long limbed
little person with a good many angles
that are prominent and need to be
well considered when it comes to
choosing her clothes. Since there are
designers who specialize in clothes
for children the needs of the thin lit
tie girl and the needs of the fat little
girl have been given expert attention
and the problems of distraught
mothers solved for them.
Here IS a dress Of fine voile shown
on slim little girl Of eleven that
Will bear study. 1t is In two pieces
skirt and long blouse, thereby dis
posing once for all of that bugbear in
children's clothes-the waistline-by
leaving 1t out of the reckoning. The
skirt Is suspended from a short under
bodice, gathered on to 1t and fasten-
ed in the back. 1t is moderately full
and has two-inch tuck above the
three-irch hem. These give 1t little
weight and flare at the bottom where
1t Is precisely even In length and
reaches to the knees.
1t is the blouse that reveals the
cleveIness of its designer. It's body
hang from a very short yoke, gath
cred quite full over the shoulders.
The body of the blouse is shocked in
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09
Vests of White Piuue.

The vests of white pique or other
but they always look fresh and at
tractive with cloth suits of any color.
The dainty lingerie fronts are really
sleeveless bodices with fronts Of vary
ing degrees of elaboration. If they
are not made In this way they will
not keep their shape well. Some OF
these have collar Of medium depth
turning over the coat, finished with
three or four rows of tiny ruff1es. This
idea may be carried out in rose, blue
or green lawn or any other thin ma
terial. A very pretty one is of white
lawn with small pink dot. An eftee-
tive front Is tucked in cross bars.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

three rows of shocking where it joins
the shirred yoke. 1t is usual this sea
son to use one or more cOlored silks
in doing the shocking on white frocks
and these little bits Of color are very
childish and pretty on dresses for all
little girls. There are two pockets at
the bottom of the blouse with smock
ing across the top and buttons that re-
peat the color used in the shocking.
They are set on purely as finish for
the blouse fastens with snap fasteners.
The collar which is Of wash satin is
like them in color and the sleeves are
plsin-three- quarter length.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09
The Wars Wreekage.

4ucu IuC InC wal. n lLLlC Ilf ulCt
of the wars wreckage began to trickle
In at Evian-"repatrieS," elderly men
and women, children, even babies, who
had once lived in the parts of France
engulfed by the German tides> and
whom the Germans, finding them USE
France by way Of Switzerland. Grad
ually this rivulet swelled Soon 1000
of these unfortunates were arriving
at Evian daily. AnG fully half of
them were children, undernourished.
thinly clad, dirty, sickly and, worse,
grim, spiritless, with faces that had
forgotten how to smile.
To care for these children was the
task your Red Gross at once assumed.
Working with the French authorities,
the Red Cross secured permission to
make use of the old and almost forgot
ten Chateau des Halles up there in
the mountains. For years the castle
had been closed. No effort had ever
been made to fit it up as a hospital.
Your Red Cross had to begin at the
very beginning.
Rooms Big and jolly.
But what wonderful task 1t has
accomplished The Chateau des
Halles, transformed into a children's
hospital and rest home in furious
haste under the terrible pressure Of
war needs, with little time to think
twice and no time to retrieve errors,
is not only one of the most complete
establishments of its kind it is one Of
the best children's hospitals in all
France. The two rooms where the
arriving children are isolated for
few days are big, jolly rooms-just
what is need to efface from the little
ones minds the memories of those iron
days behind the German lines The
big play room is strewn with rocking
horses and wonderful smile-enticing
parrots and other toys carved by the
wounded poilus.
And so you stray from room to room,
and everywhere you find new evil
dences of this watchful care. And
then you reach the bathrooms. This
chateau was built by a man of wealth.
Its plumbing was excellent and yet 1t
has been stripped out and replaced
with little, low wash basins and little
shower baths that the children can use
more comfortably.
That Is how your Red Cross thinks
and cares for Frances children.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09
War Savings T.. !.

War Savings e.. rps.
During the month O. the
receipts coming into the l. de-
partment through the sale of h al Saw
ings and Thrift stamps totaled SAL
OOO,O0O 1t is reported that they aver
age now about $2,0O0,O00 a day. Re
turns from the same source In England
were $37 100000. The War Savings
and Thrift stamps give everyone a
chance to be "in" on the great Dusi-
ness Of winning the war. They are
q fine investment and within the reach
of everyone. Congress set $2,000,000,-
900 as the amount to be raised by this
means for the year. If this amount is
reached it will cover the entire cost of
the governments shipbuilding program
for the year. 1t has now from this
source enough revenue daily to build
10000 tons of shipping and altogether
has received to date funds for building
100000 tons, or "a ships Of 5000 tons
each.
Our strength in this war has not
made itself felt vet as 1t will be felt.
SIredI. reserves VI IL Will Ue IOIlHtOlH-
ing. We have hardly felt the pinch
of the war yet In the War Savings
and Thrift stamps we have an opportu-
nifty to all take hand in building
ships, and they must be built. Be-
sides this the Thrift stamps are edu-
eating people, especially young peO-
ple and children. to save and to
use money for investment instead
of spending it for things they do not
really need Lack of thrift, In this d.
rection, seemed to be almost a univer-
sal failing before the war. Accumu-
lating Thrift stamps is likely to es-
tablish the habit of saving in young
people and children.
Work Which Only Women Can Do.
Whatever our other activities, we
must "go on with our knitting" in
q very literal sense. Sox, sweaters,
wristlets, and bands and then more
sox will be needed In far greater num-
bers than ever before. Surgical dress
ing and bandages, also, must be sup
piled by the shipload, and food must
be conserved. In these affairs the
world leans on women for support. But
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09
Ja,kets and skirts.

That Jackets will be short rather
than long seems to be foregone con-
clusi0n, judging by the South-wear
fashions, and 'etons and boleros are de-
cidedly In evidence, Not only suits
but dresses, too, are seen in these eton
and bolero styles, and very smart and
youthful are these effects worn over
blouses of crepe organdie.
Jacket and coat sleeves are narrow
and close-fitting and In wrist length /;
skirts, too, are modelled with conser-
vation of material very much In mind.
for they are cut decidedly narrow and
fairly short, though not as short as
some fashionable skirts of last season.
The average width Of modish skirts Is
about one and one-half yards around
and the length from four to six inches
off the ground.
The daily morning oasis., 1918-05-09

THE annual loss by Pre-
L ventable Fires. in the
United States, exceedes
$3.50, 600, 600. Most prev
entable fires originate in
neglected rubbish, in back
yards, attics, cellars, etc.