New Mexico state record. (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1914-19??, 1918-12-20

In those days 1t was considered a matter or
course that a lady should know how to carve.
though (as was the case with the mistress OF
Mount VernOn) she might not spell correctly.
The accomplishment like the making OF Jams and
cider, was appropriate for a housewife.
Christmas at Mount Vernon In those times was
an exceedingly jolly and festive occasion. Wash
ingtOn was the richest man In Virginia, and the
equipments of his household were in many re-
spects more luxurious Than could be found In the
houses of his well-tO-lo neiglbOrs. For example,
the guests at this Christmas dinner were provided
with silver forks-a rare luxury at that period.
when gentlemen customnrily ate with their
knives, because it was out of the question to lift
peas and many other such edlbles to the mouth
with the three-tined steel forks commonly In use.
1t Is n shock to learn that the father of his
country ate with his knife, yet such Is undeniably
the fact. That sage historian, Peter Farley, tells
a story %(probably npochryphal) OF an occasion
when somebody tried to kill the immortal George
by putting poison on his peas. Showing his knife
beneath Il few of them. and raising them to his
lips, he looked across the table at his enemy. and
said, SHALL I eat of these?" Still holding the
knife suspended, he again transfxed the man
with his gaze and repented the question. So over
come was the wOuld-br poisOner by WashingtOn's
seeming presciehce that he fed from the table
and the perilous peas remained uneaten.
At that epoch, in Virginia, the men who waited
vi lie tuDle III INoSt uI me country houses wore
plantation gnrb. At Mount Vernon, however, the
household servitOrs were attired in n handsome
and even striking livery of scarlet, white and gold,
and the butler was a dream of gOrgeOusness. One
man Tor each two guests was the Ainimum allow
ance. Not only were there viands to be supplied,
hut a constant succession of bottles containing
wines of choice vintage for the consumption of
the male guests.
Ladies' in those days drank next to nothing at
ALL tn fOkQ mora tIun a Gin Of uiun fnr o{tlov
maid or matron, would have been regarded as
the height of inprOpriety. But for the men-all
through this Christmas dinner the bottles were
kept going around. Mr.. Bryan Fairfax of Alexan-
dria would say to Mr.. G. w. Lewis across the
table, George, a glass of wine with you! /" with
pleasure, Cousin Bryan the latter would reply,
as he bowed and drank. Then Mr.. Fairfax would
go through the same performance with every man
at the table-and so it went throughout the
repast.
The eatables served at the dinner were nearly
all of them products of the Mount Vernon estate.
From a gastrOnOmic point Of view, no region In
the world was richer than that section Of old
Virginia. There We're canvasback ducks to be
shot on the river in front of the house; partridges
and venison were plentiful, and the proprietor Of
the mansion raised his own beef. pork, and NUT
ton. The only vegetables were sweet potatoes,
white potatoes, and beans.
From a latter-day standpoint the repast was
conducted in a peculiar fashion. All the dishes.
including three kinds of meats and several Of
game, were put on the table at once. While Mrs.
Washington carved the turkey, the gentlemen who
happened to be opposite the mutton, the venison,
etc. were expected to lend expert assistance In
the dissection of those cOmestibles. The buildings
were eaten before the withdrawal of the cloth, the
removal of which left bare a shiny expanse of
mahogany, upon which the fruit, nuts, and de-
canters were set forth in festive array.
When the cloth had been withdrawn, the host
would lift his glass, filled with choice Madeira,
and drink the health of his guests. Five minutes
of general conversation would follow, perhaps,
and then Mrs. Washington would rise. giving the
signal for the departure Of the ladies'. Every
body would get up; the ladies would make an elab-
crate curtsy to the gentlemen. and the latter
would bow profoundly in response. With the re-
tirement of the women the real drinking would