davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1918-08-11
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

multitude OF people engaged In
the making and selling Of wom-
ems apparel. has at last sounded
warning to those who buy too
far ahead Of the seasons.
The public has deplored this condi-
ton. 1t has been well known for sew
eral seasons that the average woman
ala not care to buy q straw hat in
February and a velvet hat In July, or
TO have all her autumn clothes offered
to her the first Of September with tho
assurance that they were the fashions
that would rule throughout the win
ter. She has been often betrayed. and
that betrayal has not soothed her irri-
tation against those who sold her the
clothes.
1t is the fact also that the trade In
apparel has found itself caught In q
net that tangled and involved 1t, and
compelled each individual to struggle
for success In manner contrary to
the dictates of reason and sobriety.
X
X X
Through this web of circumstances
every one has come to a feeling that
something must be done In the crea-
tion Of new fashions long before the
season for which they are to be worn,
and that the public must follow the
lines laid down by the trade COM
petitors.
Right here lies the extraordinary
gamble to women in buying clothes
early in the season. Right here lies
one of the greatest sources of money
wastage. Thousands Of women who
have no way of knowing what the
fashions will be as the season ad-
vances buy what Is said to be new as
Evening star., 1918-08-11

minaret tunie by those who speak
often Of fashions. Memory 10 short,
and probably there are hundreds who
reign Of this bit Of orientalism that
play.
The fact that II 10 In fashion should
be received with Joy by the econo-
mists. III tell you why. There are
less good condition that flare At the
hem.
They are left-overs from last season,
Evening star., 1918-08-11

and some of them have been worn de-
fantly by those who did not intend to
go round the whirligig of fashion.
These are the garments that can be
easily turned into minaret tunics. AS
fashion permits one to wear a skirt
of different material from the tunic
or bodice, there is no difficulty in
matching up the tunic with some fab
ric that will do duty beneath it,
This trick of economy can be applied
to evening gowns as well as TO those
Evening star., 1918-08-11
FADS AND FANCIES.

Chiffon eveing gowns are abso.
lutely without trimming.
Velour cloths will be preferred for
the finer woolen suits.
Gingham and organdie is one of
the odd new combinations.
Tiny bows of silk ribbon give a
smart finish to any frock
Triple collars. like triple cuffs, make
frock distinguished.
Organdie frocks are girdled with
velvet ribbon, which is tied IN a fat
bow.
Evening star., 1918-08-11

ize that panic and form of CONNER.
cial hysteria have resulted in q large
amount OF early buying, which is not
fair either to the Individual or to
commerce. Every shopper has shared
the same experience this last year of
being told that 1t is wise to buy at
once the articles needed. because they
day.
This has resulted in certain meas
ure OF boarding, which the govern
ment does not allow in food. 1t has
already resulted in severe waste OF in
dividual money. Women, feeling the
press of this panic. have gotten clothes
in advance Of the season, and they
now nnd that there are just as many
the shape and texture have changed.
1t would be far wiser method of
spending ones money to buy a little.
at the necessary time. representinc
the best there ID at that moment.
There will always be material of
Evening star., 1918-08-11

the aeason demands a change.
What they buy in September has
probahlX been bought by the shop in
June. - keep up with the rising tide
Of forsAa>ledness the manufacturers
make the clothes earlier and earlier,
and the ready-to-wear shops and de-
partment stores, as a rule, buy these
clothes as early as the manufacturers
make them and get them out at the
very moment there is slight demand
for them.
What happens?
In October and in April the real
fashions come out for each season.
Hundreds of women--nay, thousands
are faced with the fact that they
have bought gowns, or wraps. or hats
that are not In keeping with the new
clothes. They have bought clothes
arranged six months before the au-
thentic exhibitions Of new and season.
able apparel.
What happens next?
The woman who can possibly scrape
Evening star., 1918-08-11

up enough money to buy new outfit
does SO, and she also spends extra
money on seamstress or little Dress
maker maker to have her other clothes re-
her allowance on clothes.
NO layman can make snap 5udg-
ment of this condition and say that
the trade should change Its methods.
There 10 much to be said on every side.
which deals with technicalities. with
manufacturers have to send clothes
over a stupendous area. and this has
to be done with skill, backed by
shrewd Judgment. But there must be
some way out of this "rushing the
season" habit which has become a
source OF trouble to women.
1t Is quite useless for the theorists
to cry out that 1t makes little differ
ence in war times whether or not a
woman 10 in the fashion. The truth
is that there is no reason why women
should become careless of their ap-
pearance and void Of all interest In
new clothes because the nation Is
fghting. Anyway. argument about the
thing Is mere waste Of time. The fact
remains that women do care, and they
are not any different in this war than
they have been in the four thousand
years of human warfare Of which the
historians tell US. War may intensity
1t one bit.
Money is valuable these days. and
labor far more SO. This is no time for
mistakes in apparel. Everybody must
be assured that what is bought Is the
right thing and will serve for months
without Irritating the possessor.
Many OF the traders In apparel real
Evening star., 1918-08-11

cooked In preparation. such as most
trade named breakfast foods, should
be cooked twenty minutes. Often d.
rections for cooking intimate that a
shorter time is adequate, but they are
always improved by longer cook
ing, and in some cases the longer
cooking is necessary to make them
thoroughly digestible.
Cereals that are thoroughly cooked
IN preparation and are to be served
as they come from the package are
always improved by crisplng them in
the oven. A closed oven door viii
render them soggy. Put them in a
hot oven and leave the door open In
order to permit the moisture absorbed
from them to escape. -
A government bulletin on cereal
breakfast foods points out that one
of the chief purposes of cooking
cereal is ITO sterilize the material 40
that any undesirable ba cteria or para
sites or their eggs. II accidentally
present. may be rendered harmless"
For that reason a cereal that you
cook in your kitchen and that Is
brought direct from the kitchen to
your dining room without contact Of
flies or any other contamination, may
be regarded as one of the safest OF
all possible summer foods.
Evening star., 1918-08-11

ing of frocks this autumn >there is no
doubt; and there is also no question
that an inexpensive gown, bought at
good shop. is far better piece of
work than the hiring of a seamstress
by the day. feeding her with the food
that is hard to get and paying her
the price that most of them now de-
mand. The clever woman carefully
iooks her wardrobe over, and then
worth remodeling.
Evening star., 1918-08-11

This Is an admirable aid to re-
forming clothes. bad neck line may
be cut away and stitched on it's edges,
or merely touched with white or
CANDY piping; and sleeves that are
worn out at the elbows or ungruce-
fully adjusted at the wrists may be
clipped OF above the elbow and given
a severe finish.
The insistence upon the cuirass
blouse, which Is the best name that
most of it's followers can find, re-
lieves a womans mind as to what to
do with her separate skirts; and the
fashion for the modified niinaret tunic.
which swings from the shoulders and
lon, gives her a chance to use a far.
ing skirt as an upper garment.
Little has been said concerning this
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
Fourth Liberty
Loan

The campaign for the Fourth
Liberty Loan will begin Sep.
teinber 2sth and close October
l9th, The result of the loan
VIII be watched with keen in
terest IN Europe, not only by
our associates III the war against
the Ieutonic powers but by our
enemies. 1t VIII be regarded
oy them asa measure Of the
american peoples support Of
inc war
me Germans know full well
'he tremendous weight and
Significance of popular support
OF the wnr,of the people at home
backing up the Army in the
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
Jim" Davidson Spent Hun
dreds OF Dollars.
COULD FIND NO RELIEF
UNTIL HE TOOK TANLAC
"All My Friends and Ac-
quaintances Are Talking
About MY Improve
ment."

j. y. Davidson, who for more
than ton years has been one of
the best known conductors in
the employ Of the Memphis
Street Railway Co, residing at
633 Marshall Ave, Memphis,
Tenn, in II recent statement,
gave most enthusiastic in.
dorsement for Tnnluc.
81 suffered for five or six
years with stomach trouble and
indigestion" snid "Jim," as he
is called by his fricnds. "My
food would fcrment and sour
in my stomach. and form gus
that made ms miserable. was
so nervous that | couldn't sleep
or rest, and i'll spite of all the
medicine | took-and | spent
hundreds of dollars for them
got worse all the time, until |
thought I'd have to give up my
run.
II certainly struck the right
thing when / got this Tanluc.
ne cii"ilSc IL mas iiluuc III my
feelings is Just wonderful. |
couldn't tell that | had ever
had indigestion by the way |
feel now. have tho biggest
Kind of an appetite, just can't
eat enough to satisfy me. and
everything agrees with me per.
feet ly. All the nervousness
has left me, | sleep like II log AT
night, that fagged-out feeling
10 gone, and feel like a new
man. All my friends and nc
quaintnnces are talking about
my wonderful Improvement"
The genuine Tnnlac is sold in
Big Stone Gap by the Mutual
Pharmacy, and also by the fol
lowing agents in nearby towns;
Old Dominion Drug Co., APP
pelachia, an T.. G. Blair,
Olinger.
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21

Eat plenty of fresh fruits and
you will desire less sugar.
We have a monthly allow
ance of two pounds of sugar
per capita and there is besides
this limited amount for cam.
ing, to he distributed in accord.
ance with regulations by the
Federal Food Administrator OF
your state.
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
and supplies to Europe.

and supplies to Europe.
We must mako up the loss Of
The beet sugar lnnds and factor
les captured or destroyed by
the Germans in northern France
and Italy.
ships which would have kept
up The flow Of sugar have been
sunk. Twcnty-six thousand
'ons OF sugar were lost recently
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
GREEN'S AUGUST FLOWER

has been a household remedy ali over the
civilized world for more than half a cen
Jury Tor constipation, intestinal troubles
torpid liSes and the generally depressed
feeling tina, accompanies such disorders
1, Is most valuable remedy for in,iiges
tion or nervous dyspepsia aud liver thu.
bic. bringing on headache, coming up Of
food, pAlp!iRiion OF heart. and inSny Other
symptoms, 4 few doses OF Angus, Flow
er Will relieve you. 1t is gentle lava
tive. Sold b, Kelly Drug Company.
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21

in submarine raids upon the
Atlantic Coast.
Fifty thousands tons of sugar
earring shipping were trans
fe:red TO meet the requirements
Of Belgian relief.
as Il few partical suggestions
-use honey, sirups, sorghum,
molasses, instead of sugar. Use
dried fruits as a source OF sugar.
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
W by All Must
Save Sugar

One OF the most important
and patriotic thinesswhich can
be done right now is to SAVE
SUGAR.
We must release some of the
ships formerly used in the su
gar trade to carry our soldiers
The Big Stone Gap post. [volume] (Big Stone Gap, Wise County, Va.) 1892-1928, 1918-08-21
The Church of Christ.

Preaching on first and third
LORDS day mornings Second and
fourth evenings. Would be de-
lighted with your presence.
FEsTus n WOLFE, Minister.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-08-25
Gold mining II. California that pays

from the Bible, which epitomized what he
had learned: "There shall not be left one
stone upon another" The world had
turned topsy-turvy, that is, the economic
world. 1t had turned upside down, in
side out, wrong end first, every old way
reversing every economic truth, the man
thought, he had known before.
Women formerly were not to do this
and that, and they we're doing it, and do
ing it with zest and JOY, and the sourest
old anti-feminist was saying "God bless
you" Jules Verne had dreamed of one
voyage under the sea, and half the world
was struggling for supremacy under the
sea.
darius Green and His Flying Ma
chine" had been this mans kid sons pet
school doggerel, and here were whole ar
gosies of Darius Greens with flying ma
chimes, silver fleets of winged aviators in
the clouds above every city. But gold
this was the greatest shock of all!
Far Less Essential Than Pig Iron
Bryan's "cross of gold" had become
less essential than the pig iron In a hand
spike. There was the greatest quantity OF
gold in the country ever known in the
history of the world. Yet gold had be-
come so much cheaper than labor that OPP
orators were coming to the point where
they could no longer afford to take gold
ont of the ground.
There was more gold in vaults and
banks than ever before in the history OF
the world. Yet in proportion to the
amount of currency in circulation there
was smaller proportion of gold reserves
in every country than there had been since
the world went on a gold basis. And,
shades of Bryan! Bryan must be grin
ming like Billikin! While all the war
debts were payable in gold, there was
not enough gold in the whole world
even melting down all jewelry and gold
decorations-to pay the war costs Of
single country for a single year.
As to the boosted gold basis-the miner
almost swore. Sheer camoufage! He
could not afford to sell gold any longer.
Talk of gold basis! Where was 1t
In explicit figures what the Westerner
found was this: From 25 to IS per cent.
of the gold mines in the Transvaal had
had to close because the price of labor
had gone up from 100 to 300 per cent.
The price of nitroglycerine, Of steel, of
shovels, of picks, of chemicals had gone
up from 200 to 400 per cent. But the
price of gold was fixed. 1t was still
fixed at $2067 an ounce, as set by the
Bank of England some years ago and
ultimately adopted by the world as the
standard gold price. ,.>... .
The gold miner was in precisely the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-08-25

same predicament as the farmer. The
price of what he had to sell was nrev-
ocably fixed. The price of all he had
to buy was planning into the clouds be-
yond his reach.
In Canada wages were up 300 and 400
per cent. and production had dropped
off 20 per cent. and the miners were
showing only 80 per cent. Of their former
efficiency. In Australia production had
fallen of A per cent. and costs had gone
up 400 per cent
It is an actual fact that on the Rand
100000 ounces Of gold had been sold at
less than it cost to produce it. It had
cost $40 an ounce to produce. 1t had
sold at $50 plus. As Alaska mines de-
veloped from high grade pockets to low
grade ones, there had resulted the same
conditions. The price arbitrarily fixed by
the Bank Of England no longer covered
the costs.
All the nations had listed gold mining
as an essential industry. All had prac-
tically exempted gold miners from mill
tary service; but that did not prevent men
earning from S. to Sc at gold mining
from leaving to earn from 81 to $40 in
munitions factories; and this took no ae-
count of the almost impossibihty of obtain
ing mining equipment, sulphurie acid,
dynamite.
1t was an interesting situation. 1t was
an interesting situation for a lot of rea-
sons. Please to look at them and then
don't marvel that the Westerner went
home wondering whether he was stand
ing on his head or the crazy Kaiser was
turning H. world upside down.
How Purchasing Power Dropped.
Before the war an ounce of gold would
buy four tons of coal, over 100 pounds of
copper, four barrels Of -four, ten days of
unskilled labor, 100 pounds of meat. Now
an ounce of gold would buy only two and
G half tons of coal, eighty pounds of cop
per, one and half barrels of -four, five
days of unskilled labor, fifty pounds of
meat.
Everything had gone up in price but
gold and human life. Life was cheap, but
labor was dear, so dear it might some day
put itself off the map by compelling q
shut down of its own industries.
There was great abundance of gold re
serves in the country, but gold reserves in
proportion to currency had fallen from
SO per cent. to 81 per cent. Of the gold
in the world, 81 per cent. came from
mines owned by the Allies, 1. per cent.
from mines owned by Austria and Ger
many, 9 per cent. from the mines Of neu-
trails.
Until international commerce began
again with Germany, Germany would sui
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-08-25
By AGNES L. LAU1.

4 MAN in California who had highly
L n profitable, highly productive small
gold mine resolved a few months ago to
sell his property and retire. 1t is prop
erty which any one of dozen syndicates
would have bought at par and refinanced
a few months ago. He wrote to well
known operator, placing the mine on the
market.
To his amazement he received answer
that the average gold mine could neither
be given nor thrown away. Gold mines
we're a drug on the market. 1t was case
of modern Midas-the more gold the
thing was, the less it was able to feed
itself In other words, gold had become
so cheap and labor so dear and over
head costs so inflated that only multi
millionaire could afford the luxury of
owning and operating gold mines.
Up in Canada, on the Rand in Africa,
in Australia, in the Western States, in
Alaska, gold mines were shutting down
all the way from 20 TO 80 per cent. of
their possible production. Only veins or
lodes or leads, or whatever you call them,
of peculiarly high yields were being
worked; and as 80 per cent. of the worlds
gold comes from low grade properties,
whose richest cream has already been
skinned, it looked as if the greater pro-
portion of the worlds gold sources were
,xroIpall,- -chuf off
Made the Californian Gasp.
The California man gasped. Gold a
drug on the market! Why, he had taken
part in the Kootenay stampede and the
Alaska stampede and the Nevada STAN
pede, when men fought one another for
possession of pack horses, for place on a
raft or foothold on cattle car to reach
a mining camp first on the mere chance
of finding traces of gold prospect.
He had followed rivers and wild noun
tain streams up almost unscalable noun
tains. all to try and find the mother vein
from which some tiny specks of yellow
metal had washed down to the valley in
sands, He had seen men die of thirst in
the desert for that yellow metal and
women sell their souls and men in Wall
Street bow down to yellow calf wearing
On its forehead the sign of the little S
with two sticks through it.
Why, wasn't it the yellow metal that
led the Spaniards to Mexico and Peru to
strip temples of gold9 Had the world
turned topsy-turvy, or the Eastern pro-
moter gone out of his senses7
The California mine owner took train
and came East, and when be went back
West after investigating the gold Gtua-
ton there was just one line, and that was
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-08-25

fer the least from the shrinKage of gold
productions for she could conduct COM
merce within her own empire with paper
currency, but the Allies credits. and debts
would ultimately be payable in gold.
All the equipment for our army bought
from neutrals must be paid in gold. Lib
erty bonds would ultimately be payable
in gold. Yet gold had become an outeast
among the metals. Less was paid for it
that it cost to produce. And owing to the
war a peculiar condition had arisen In the
mines.
As long as labor was plentiful and ad-
venture lured, men would go prospecting
for new gold camps, but with the lure OF
the wars great adventure, no more pros
pectors were going out. No big new i'm
portant camps were being discovered.
Low Grade Mines, Only, Pay.
The richest cream had already been
taken out of the known gold camps. Most
of the gold now being produced was com
ing from low grade. mines, where small
profits on big bulk production made the
profit. Now increased overhead charges
had wiped out that small profit, and the
low grade properties were shutting down
till after the war.
But suppose the Bank of England in
creased the price of gold to $40 an ounce,
as the miners of the Rand proposed. That
opened such lot of questions that it
turned the Californian's brain topsy-
turvy. Suppose the price of gold went to
$40 an ounce. Would a man having a
$50 gold piece have $40 or $40 worth Of
eurrencyi Would q woman having $50
gold pin have $50 or 500 valuef
While Americans were not boarding
gold, there were great many people who
for safety's sake in emergency liked to
keep 5000 or $500 of gold available.
Would the value of gold held by such
people double over night by banks man
date concerning gold prieesf
And then those countries that were for
ever boarding gold and had been hoard
ing it secretly for centuries, like India,
wouldn't doubling of the price Of gold
either double their wealth by the stroke
of pen or discount their debtsi As for
the great war debts payable in gold, for
those countries holding great reserves Of
gold doubling the price would double the
reserves or halve their debts, and for
those little countries having war debts and
no gold reserves, like Belgium and Serbia,
such action would practically double their
debts.
1t would rivet chain on the neeks Of
the weak for all time and help the strong
est nations needing help least. Germany
lno~tsaue1 nn Tenth Pnne
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-08-25

lC0s;dassd on Tenth Page.l
The Hickman courier. [volume] (Hickman, Ky.) 1859-current, 1918-12-05
LIDS OFF AGAIN.
Iiauor MAY BE Carried Into Dry
Counties. says Court.

The court ~ appeals held that the
personal use clause. an amendment ~
the local option law. passed 10y me
last legislature prohibiting the u king
OF intoxicating liquors into local "p
rion territory for personal use T. un-
constitutional The court says iii-l
IN will D. necessary 10 amend the CON
Stifufiou 10 give the legislature au-
thority 90 pass such law. Thomas
Barber. who lives az Morehead. in
Rowan county. bought three quarts
u liquor az Lexington and CARRIED
Them to Rowan county. which is local
option territory. He was indi ied bs
the Rowan circuit court on the charg'
u violating the personal use clause
Of the local option statute He was
convicted and fined $50 and sentenced
"a twenty days la Jail Taking un
appeal the case was decided IN hi~
favor. Commissioner Clay wrote th
opinion for the court. the whole court
sitting and none 81 the members oi
the court dissented-