davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
LATE FABRIC FOR LINGERIE
Wolfe Has Gained Place of Favor and
Has an Advantage Over
Satin and Silk.

Wolfe is a fairly new fabric for lin
gerie, but 1t has already, in the few
months that it has been used for IN
dergarments, gained prestige.
To be sure, wolfe lingerie ten or
twelve years ago would have seemed
absurdly impractical Wolfe was too
thin, we would have said, too fragile
for the hard wear that lingerie must
have.
But those statements would have
been made in the days before lingerie
had had a chance TO show it's good
points. And they would have been
been made, too, In the days before we
used fur and chiffon, tulle and satin for
lingerie. Nowadays, of course. satin is
considered one OF the most durable
Of fabrics-One is tempted to say un-
dermuslins-in the good old-fashioned
way, but undermuslins are now only
part Of the matter, for most Of them
are made Of silk and satin and crepe.
Wolfe has one advantage over satin
and silk In the minds Of some women,
at least for underwear. They cling to
liking for a regular Tubing fabric
for underwear. 1t matters not to them
that satin can be washed in soap and
water and ironed; satin does not seem
so fresh and clean as cotton Of some
sort. So to them wolfe is a welcome
addition to the fabrics from which un-
derwear is made.
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
buy WISELY and
! WITH MUCH CARE
Avoid the Very Cheap Garments
for Winter, Is Advice of
an authority.
SOME STYLES THAT REMAIN
Tendency 70 Noticed TO Eliminate Es.
csss Of Trimming Which Was More
Popular at the Beginning
Of the Season.

New York.-Wherever merchants
are foregathered, writes a fashion cor
respondent. there is talk, interesting
talk. concerning the prices that women
pay for clothes this season.
One expected the level of prices to
be higher, because food, fuel, light and
rent have increased beyond the knowl-
edge Of man; and there have been
fragrant cases Of injustice to the pub
lie In the amount Of money demanded
by some dressmakers for building
clothes, but there are cases that must
be settled with the individual, not the
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
Matinee Cans

Lovely little matinee caps appear
out Of hardly more than a few inches
Of lace. ribbon and swansdown; CANT
soles can be evolved In no time from
all kinds Of odds and ends which the
casual onlooker would never deem at
for the purpose. And this Is no time
for hesitation. Now, above all others,
Ii the chance to buy while yet we can,
90 that anything Of obviously good
value should certainly be snapped up
at sight. Quite certainly 1t can be
put to excellent purpose and equally
surely It viii not soon again be avail
able at anything resembling a reason
able price.
The broad ax., 1918-11-16

The feature Of this black velvet
froek Is the panels back and front,
which are of black and gold game
and fall below the skirt The bodice
10 plain and finished at the neck
with fur.
mass; the outstanding fact that inter
ests the sellers of clothes, is that wom-
en- deliberately ask more often for a
high-priced gown than ever before and
pay the price with seeming willingness.
Why? The act is not explained by the
word ~extravagance." 1t Is level-head-
ed conservation.
traordinary shrewdness to know that
cheap materials are not lasting. No
body ever bought them with the belief
that they would carry one with salts
faction throughout the season. They
were bought by women who preferred
to spread q small income over many
cheap costumes; wonderland America
% filed with them-who like to vary
their costume every day or every two
months rather than be compelled to
wear the same thing throughout the
weeks Of q settled season. It Is their
form Of getting stimulation.
: Wisdom In Buying Gowns.
: II Is, no doubt, an actual hardship
for q large mass Of American women
/, to deny themselves the pleasure Of
constant procession Of clothes at small
prices, but they must economic In
this, as In food. A cooking expert has
said that there are no such garbage
pals In the world as here; that the
kings Of Europe did not have such gar
bage as the factory woman In the tene
ment districts Of this country discards
This, 1t Is true, has stopped; and ever
when garbage Is plentiful, showing 9
spirit that Is not unpatriotic but ig.
norant Of thrift, then the government
steps in and gets all sorts Of thing
useful to the war out Of the pail that
once was nosed by the dogs ant
dumped into outer darkness.
Why Women Buy With Care.
So even though the American woman
may not wish to wear one good COS
tune throughout the season, her pa
triotism commands her to do It. Thh
is the kernel Of the entire situation
She buys In order that her clothes may
Last. She does not wish to take tbs
time to constantly mend, cheap clothe
and renew them at odd moments. Sht
has gone back to the ways Of hel
great-grandmother, who chose mate
rial carefully and In many lights. pail
a good price for Il, and expected 1
to live up to its reputation.
A woman who goes into q shop THU
season to buy an everyday gown, pay
so where she once paid SIS for II
This Is as near the average figure a
the shops can get. She asks II TIN
material win wear, II it win hold It
dye, If the seams and stitchery ar
good, and when she finds that they an
just what they once were, but tina
they are not up TO her modern stand
ard Of purchasing. she adds SO or 81
to the price and buys another gown
that suits her judgment.
No one is happier over the state o
affairs than the shopkeepers. The
The broad ax., 1918-11-16

popular selection during the season,
although a large number of blouses
are being shown with moderately high
collars. Regardless Of becomingness,
the collarless blouse Is certainly more
comfortable, and in these busy days
that Is very important consideration.
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
EermIess Blouse. and coat..

Cheruit makes extremely wide ant
formless blouses and coats, and she
Ike Lanvin, uses these long loops
which are really sings. Undoubtedly
they were suggested by the sight -ot
the wounded in Paris. and the fac
that the dressmaking houses In Francs
turned out 20 much Of the essential
for the hospitals.
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
STYLES That Remain with Ia

ties.
Styles That Remain With uG
The continuance OF the chemise
frock and the sandwich silhouette has
given comfort to many women, because
1t allows them to wear, for a time.
the frocks they possess. Whether or
rot this silhouette win die out as the
season strengthens. no prophet can
tell rs; but there is uneaSiness among
those who watch fashions closely.
Everywhere one finds q tendency to
widen the hips. We are trying to get
q peg-top silhouette as opposed to a
planked shad silhouette. II this change
comes about, the straight chemise
frocks or tunics will not have as much
value as they have today.
1t is. not only the Americans, but
also the French, who have proposed
this silhouette. It is not universal !;
one sees a continuance of the straight
line on the great majority Of French
and American clothes, but with more
tendency toward the peg-top outline in
the homemade things than in the for
eign ones, except from houses like
Callot.
The reason for this innovation is due
to the military and II is strange that
II did not occur before the fourth
year of war. We have admired the
silhouette Of mannish wide hips and
narrow ankles for many months with
out thought Of introducing 1t in wom-
ems clothes. Now 1t is here and It is
carried out In almost the identical
manner that the military tailors use
with mems trousers.
Simplicity We. characterization.
Another subtle change that has come
across the sky Of fashions since the
first French styles were shown is a
tendency to eliminate much of the
trimming with which the season began.
There was an overelaboration of rich
and massive embroidery, OF tassels,
Of colOred facings, OF strips Of me-
tallic ribbons, and of other strange
and caprieiOus gewgaws that the mind
can invent when large ideas are lack
ing. The universally of all this or
such, for instance as
miles Of fringe, was its own undoing.
1t bOrdered, dangerously, on the ugli- |
est period of mid-Victorianism. 1t
gave one an unpleasant memory, even |
IL far-Off one, of beribbOned milk |
stools and frying pans in the parlor.
n xrrQc xunI1 Innn. oo,,Il 10
found with its quality, but why do It? |
This was the question asked by those
who are apostles and disciples of SIM
plicity. e
After awhile, as the Majority came to
the conclusion that everyone was In
hanger Of being oyer-Ornamented, the
had calls for quieter
rocks.
No matter how severe a suit or cloth
rock is. the use of good peltry lifts
t out Of the commonplace class. We
10 not need several yards of fringe,
'plashes Of colored embroidery, a half
iozen tassels, and a few fur pompons
o prove to our neighbor that we
Know what's what.
Getting Down to Essentials.
Possibly there has not been enough
old weather to justify the usage of
he several weaves Of the hairy and
lnimal-like fabrics new to the season,
,ut there is a noticeable absence Of
hem In the clothes worn by women
Who have chosen well among the sea-
Ional offerings. There Is beaver, seal,
mole a-plenty, but only a few inches
# their substitutes which gave the
Paris weayers so many anxious and
dated moments. They may arrive
md, again, their full development may
The broad ax., 1918-11-16

not come until next winter. New
things have q way Of holding back and
consolidating for q swift offensive the
second year.
This condition, therefore, leaves
women with smaller choice Of mate
rails for their winter wardrobe and
more puzzlement as TO silhouette. The
autumn Is done. Our last spring clothes
have served their second term A sea.
son faces rs In which we must be true
to one set Of costumes for six months
Don't buy cheaply, nor carelessly
Spend your money as II it belonged &c
the government.
COPYRIGHT ISIS. by Mcclure Newspapel
syndicats,)
The broad ax., 1918-11-16

prefer to sen fewer gowns at good
prices, rors while II Is not necessary
10 renew them in a few months rhey
give greater satisfaction to beth l,Sr-
ties.
The broad ax., 1918-11-16
Darker Hair.

Hassaging the scalp with q very
email quantity Of olive oil has q tend
ency to make the hair darker.
The mirror., 1918-09-19
DR.. Hodgeman Speaks

At the earnest solicitation of our chaplain Rev.
G. E. Benson, DR.. G. M. Hodgeman, President of
McAlister College, St. Paul, honored this nstitu-
tion with his presence at chapel services last
Sunday morning.
DR.. Hodgeman delivered whole hearted SER
on The Value of Human Life," in perspic-
and lucid manner, which gained and held the
eager attention of his audience throughout the ad-
dress. DR.. Hodgeman has for many years held and
occupied the honored position he now holds and in
delivering of this description knows where
of he speaks The message was filled with kind and
learned philosophy and made earnest appeal to
all present
The futility and futurity of life with out Divine
teachings manifests itself to ALL
The speaker closed his discourse with poetic
thought entitled, Come Unto Me-"
sincere and hearty welcome will greet DR..
Hodgeman any time he may again appear in our
midst. We look forward to the occasion.
The mirror., 1918-09-19

O-Will you kindly publish some information as to the
number of men in various sizes of troops divisions reg
ments companies, etc.? hear various numbers
but have not found anyone who seems to know.-J c.
A:-The strength of company in the different arms of
the service varies from $50 in infantry rifle company
IS in the signal corps The total strength complete in
fany battalion in the United States 26 officers and
1000 men of machine battalion of three companies 20
officers and $50 and of companies officers and 728
of battalion of light artillery II officers 579 men;
of heavy field artillery ~ officers and 456 men; field sig
nal battalion IA officers and 248 men; engineer baa
ion 20 officers and 753 battalion has II
officers and TAT The strength of infantry regiment
lO3 officers and 1862 men; of light artillery regiment nch
guns 55 officers 44 of heavy field artillery regiment
6inch howitzer So officers and 17O3 men; engineer
regiment Az officers and 67 men; and of cavalry regiment
50 officers and 1859 An infantry division has total
strength of SS7 officers and 26, 265 enlisted men.
Q-What the population of London in 1909 and what
is its present popuaon Is that the population Lon
don decreased nearly three million years and
19l5?-M. a. C.
A:-The number of people in the county of London,
meaning London according taken in 91
was 4521359 Greater London, by which London
proper and London outside the county, numbered
probable that the population London has of
much depleted by reason of the
OAre thrift stamps redeemable if damaged or mutiated
and where they be presented for redemption?A. B.
Aft affixed to Thrift cards. Thrift stamps which
manifesty than oneha of stamps
any post office the full face vaue but credit allowed
stamp that is manfesly than one-haf OF whole
stamp. Mutilated stamps affixed Thrift cards may be
sent by the the Secretary the Treasury Division
of Loans and Currency, with of the
request for redemption.
Q:-Wl you kindly harmonic "Iove your enemies and
going warl-I. c.
A:-Loving enemies has its Limitations. When ones
enemy insists aggression possessions
terere with our naienabe rights does the hundred and
things that lead have higher duty
than to the and hence resistance becomes
sary. The only ustihable in defense
righteous Men like Washington, Havelock Stonewa
Jackson and Chinese Gordon
ent Christians they without compuncon when
their duty required it. On the hand, universally
acknowledged the logical outcome of evil conditions is
the duty of the Christians make and to bring
about such conditions will insure lasting peace all men,
Q-Where bombs invented, and where first used?-I.
A:-Bombs first invented Venlo, in $685. and used
first in the service of France, in 1884.
The mirror., 1918-09-19
The Fourth Liberty Loan

The campaign for the Fourth Liberty Loan, to
bear AZ per cent interest, begins September 2S and
closes October 10. The result of the loan will be
watched with keen interest in Europe. not only by
our Allies in the against the Teutonic powers.
but by our enemies 1t will be regarded by them
as measure of the American peoples support of
the war; The Germans know full we'll the tremen-
dous weight and significance of popular support of
the war by the people at home backing up the Army
in the field. As the loan succeeds, our enemies will
sorrow; as it falls short, they will rejoice Every
dollar subscribed will help and encourage the Amer
lean soldiers, and hurt and depress the enemies of
America.
The loan will be test of the loyalty and will
ingness of the people of the United States to make
sacrifices compared with the willingness Of our SOL
diers to do their part. There must be and will be
failure by the people measure up to the cour-
age and devotion of our in Europe. MANY of
The mirror., 1918-09-19
Announcement

Your attention is called to a special treat for
your benefit.
Next Sunday at the noon hour, the Prison Or
chestra under the direction of Professor R. j. Rich
kitzer will play the National Airs of all the allies
and conclude with the Star Spangled Banner"
This is indeed an innovation in the musical line and
merits special praise. Each piece will be played
separately from the Others and you will observe the
regulations when our National Anthem is played
The mirror., 1918-09-19
The Spirit of TO and the Melting Pot

The Melting Pot has done it's work after ALL
Secheprey indicated that the raw American army,
it's roots reaching into the soil of all the world,
would stand firm as a rock against overwhelming
numbers Cantigny demonstrated that the boys
could 60 the top with the best of seasoned vet
erans. At Bouresches and in Belleau Wood the
cosmopolitan Marines crept doggedly forward into
the teeth of murderous fire and hurled the enemy
out of his trenches. At Conde all branches of the
army, Regulars, Guardsmen, Nationals and Marines,
stemmed the grey tide. restored the line within
twenty four hours after the boche offensive began,
held the pivot of the gate Paris intact and enabled
General Foch to hit the Crown Prince the smashing
blow that sent him staggering back toward the
Vesle.
In the battle of the Marne salient more Ameri-
troops participated than in any engagement in
American history, few of the principal Civil War
contests excepted. Though the casualty lists show
that almost every nationality the globe repre-
sented in the overseas battaons the spirit that sent
the boys forward, that gave weight to their advance
and dash to their charges, pure American. On
the batlefelds of France the United States is dem
onstrating that the flame of American ideasm is hot
enough to fuse the varegaed contents of the Melt
ing Pot into homogeneous national steel as tough
and true Damascene blade-Sunset
The mirror., 1918-09-19

them have given up their lives; shall we at home
withhold our money! Shall we spare our dollars.
while they spare not their very livesp
The Fourth Liberty Loan will probably be
for about S. 900 900 900 and will be followed in
January February by another campaign for SIM
liar amount. while in May or June the Sixth Loan
for another 81. 900 900 900 or more will be offered.
-Ex.
The mirror., 1918-09-19
Q U E n L ES
.
. .
NOTICE TO INMATES

For the benefit Of inmates who appreciate
porunty that their
through school
ing education Night
ton in connection with their
with be privileged the Query
send queries interest
kind collaboration Miss Carey
Libraries will gladly endeavor
mates sign their name register number and lock number
to all queries submitted for publication Inmates names
course will not be published only initials querst
being used (Ed.)
The mirror., 1918-09-19
Plain Tales From the Bible
By III Trs.isns

(Short sketches the hopes
FORTS mistakes and attanments recorded in this history
Their strength and faly goodness and badness wisdom
and folly afford each individual of the appropriate and a
pcabe example, counsel aid that continually
ing These characters here who
actual living personatiesas they surely wee-and
tails In their hunanness the lessons living the
Bible holds for us.)
The mirror., 1918-09-19

N0IcE-A inmates using the desiring
tailed information
books library be had
Text Books especially complete in their information technical
subjects Consult the
Biography and Science divisions
subjects,
The mirror., 1918-09-19

Now that the negro republic Haiti, has declared
war on Germany. Fritz finds himself up against not
only Uncle Sam. but also Uncle Sambo
London Opinion
The mirror., 1918-09-19
Notice to Inmates

WAR SAVING or THRIFT STAMPS can
be purchased each month by all who
so desire. You must notify your officer
not later than the goth of the month
if you wish to purchase stamps during
that month.
c. S. REED,
Warden.
The mirror., 1918-09-19
Thank You's

Human nature being constituted as it is, this i'm
perfect world of would more favors granted
if fewer Thank you's" were left unsaid. 1t may be
true that the doers of kindly deeds are not looking
for ELUSIVE protesations of gratitude, but an &C.
knowledgment of favors received is never out of
place. among the most intimate friends. If the
forms of politeness dispensed WITH" shrewdly
remarked John Hall. the spirit of the thing itself
dies away" So true is this that not infre-
quently the recipients of periodical kindness come to
look upon the proffering of such kindnesses as
mere matter of course, and when their persistant
lack of appreciation leads. it very intelligiby
may, to cessation of the favors they apt to re-
sent the discontinuance grievance. Yet nothing
is more natural than that the doing of kindly act
should interpret failure to acknowledge it, absence
of any expression of appreciation thereof, as pre-
sumptive evidence that it un welcome or at most
only tolerated. not gratefully received Reticence
is at times virtue well worth cutivating but it is
entirely of place when it conflicts with the de-
mands Of the genuine polteness that comes FROM as
it speaks to, the heart-Selected
What is Provided for the Presidents Wife
The following is list Of the provisions made
for the wife of the President of the United States by
the Government:
The White house. rent fuel and light free;
pair of high priced automobiles and two chauffeurs
fourteen horses and ten grooms; majordomo who
is an army officer; social secretary; eight eligible
young bachelors to entertain guests; buter twelve
house servants and engineer; housekeeper; a
chef and two ASSISTANTS elaborate conservatores and
gardeners the famous Marine Band of AZ pieces; the
yacht Mayhower and it's crew. SIX post office clerks
to look after her own mail; another clerk to look
after the seating of guests entertainments sum-
mer residence provided by others-but looked af-
ter by the Government; gardeners for summer resi-
dence; electricians and mechanics to look after the
White House.
The mirror., 1918-09-19
UNANSWERED QUERIES

The MIRROR will publish solutions following
queries in time and consecutive meantime
string to contribute solutions invited
Q:-How large family did President Lincoln have and
are any of his children living now?-W M. u.
The mirror., 1918-09-19

The new Hun helmet is specially designed to
protect the neck. How wise! That is just where
Germany is going to get it. London Opinion.
The mirror., 1918-09-19

The munltion worker who used matches for
hairpins and was fined, is exception. The per-
feet muntion girl is matchless. London Opinion.
The Washington herald., 1918-08-04
How Aliens Dodge the Draft.

Representative Rogers, of Massa-
chusetts, OF the House Foreign AZ
fairs Committee. is conducting a Wig
orous fight against conditions in this
country that enable aliens TO avoid
the draft law. According to his esti-
mate, more than one-eighth OF the
u. ooo. 600 men who registered in June.
1917, or approximately 1.25o,00o OF the
total number, have been exempted
from military service because they are
aliens. AS q result, men of foreign
birth who are now enjoying the bene-
fits Of life in this country are relieved
from any obligation to fight for these
benefits
They are stepping into the lucrative
positions abandoned by young Ameri-
cans who have gone to the front and
risked their lives for $33 q month.
Various attempts by Congress to
draft aliens have been held up al
the request of Secretary OF State
Lansing. who is endeavoring to nego-
tiate alien Stacker agreements with
the allied nations. Meanwhile, more
than a year has passed since the
American draft law was put into
effect. Representative Rogers takes
the sensible stand that justice de-
mands more speedy action by the
Washington State Department and
the governments OF Italy, France and
Great Britain.-Thomas +. Logan, in
Leslie's
The Washington herald., 1918-08-04

tives in New York and Deal Beach,
n. J.
Mrs. II. HeiIbrun has returned to
her home in New York.
Miss Rhoda Mauntner has return
ed from an extended stay in Brad
dock Heights.
Mr.. and Mrs. A. Koplin and little
daughter have returned after spend
ing a short time in Ocean View, Va.
Mrs. 8. Heller. and daughter Miss
Katherine Heller are in Atlantic
City. n. J.
Mr.. and Mrs. II. Kaufman are
passing a few weeks in Atlantic
City. N. J.. at the Breakers.
Mrs. NJ. Sinsheimer and son of this
city are spending the summer at
Ocean View, Va.
Miss .ickie Cans has returned to
her home from a visit in Atlantic
City and New York.
Mr.. and Mrs. J. Kohner and
children are in wildwood, n. J.,
where they will remain.
Milton Block. Of Newport News.
Va. was in Washington for a short
time last week.