Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-09-08
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

&A4S AZ - IVA L AiAN4ASSo4os
~ NE approaches the subject of
new silhouette these days
J with timidity. One feels the
shadow of the storm that is
about to burst when fashion writer's
and designers say to tho public that
the lines of women's clothes have
changed. which means that women's
wardrobes must change If they remain
in the picture Of the hour.
When we are in the throes of con-
servation and economy the idea of a
new silhouette Is not altogether pleas
ing: 1t is snatched up with avidity by
those who sell apparel. for they know
1t is a lure to the purse. But it is also
snatched up by orators, the reformers,
and thousands who ask women not to
change the style of their clothes dur
ing the war. These do not snatch it
up with avidity, but jump upon it and
try to crush it by argument and vitu-
peration.
The French say. however. that to
face a fact and not theorize on
fancy is far better way to meet life.
Therefore, II the new silhouette is
/ ne ard IL women will accept it by
the thousands. 1t is far better to face
H. han to ignore It; It is wiser to
basis of economy and conservation.
~
Argument has never had the slight
est effect on fashions. The persuasive
tones Of the administration. asking
that our materials be spared by civil
fans because it is needed for the fight
ers. has had It's result; but this is only
in keeping with the accomplishing at
titude of America toward all restric-
lions during this war. The majority Of
women feel and it seems that that
feeling is right, that IL they do not
encroach upon the fabrics and work
can have as many new costumes as
they wish. on whatever lines they
please. They argue that the new sill
houette holds no one who is engaged,
directly or indirectly: In warfare ar on.n
should not be asked to sew when they
can go into government employ, but
the answer to that Is that there are
hundreds of women who cannot go
whose living depends upon retaining
their trade in sewing. AS long as
there are plenty Of these women. and
as long as they must be supported, the
country will support them. We have
already advanced far away from the
idea Of disorganizing all business in
order that non essentials shall be dis
continued.
first year Of the war we should have
been extremists; today. we have set
tied down into a good long fight. and
much of tho ballast that we threw
overheard in the beginning Of panic
to the steadiness Of the ship of life.
Now, what Is this new silhouette?
The fundamental fact in the sill
houette is that skirts sweep the
ankles and heels. To many women this
signers and the reporters there is far
more in the change than this.
II women were to continue to wear
pleated skirts on straight lines, sweer-
that reached the toe-tips and wera
made to look less scanty by ripplin;
TUNES that extended to the knee, @:
would still find that the old CLOTH.
draped; it is draped upward at tn
back. and it Is very. very slender in
You can easily see that such a skirt
waist line. although 1t will have no
effect on the sleeves and the neck
line. One cannot wear tunics over
draped skirts. One cannot wear orien-
tai sashes at the hip line over draped
skirts. as they did in 1880.
There is so much that must go by
the board with skirt that is grace
full revival of the old "pull-back,"
which was held in place. by short,
strong elastics placed in the back
widths of the skirt to pull it tight
across the front of the figure.
The normal waist line will undoubt-
eddy come in with the draped skirt; or
the basque with its pointed front fas-
tened in a straight line up to the col
lar bone may be revived. The corselet
sible. as it needs a straight line be-
meath it to keep the silhouette in har-
mony. 1t Is said that wide dolman
sleeves will be revived with these
long draped skirts, as well as flat lace
collars resting securely against the
tight-fitting neck line.
All this. mind you, is in the future
as far as fashions for the mass are
concerned. But it would be unfair to
the w men who are buying clothes to-
day not to warn them Of this APP
preaching change, and the belief by
ell those in authority that this sill
houette will rule women's clothes as
the winter comes on. :.
revolution is achieved in a night.
Slumberng forces, with outbreaks at
various points, are easily diScernible