Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-02-01

Sleeveless blouse of plaid veIours.
1t is made in two sandwich panels with
plated, plain Veiours at the sides. The
sash goes through buttonholes in the
middle of the back and front and 10
finished with fringed ends. The short
sleeves and turnover collar give room
for the frock to show.
make gowns out Of as little wool as
possible, and they have pledged them
selves in a body to keep within the 41s
yard measurement for a suit gown.
This third peg was an actual slim
illus to production. 1t offered broad
white way to exploitation. 1t fairly
dubbed and seethed with advertising
trade as eagerly as q brilliant phrase
of a statesman is caught up by the
multitude and made d part of an ap-
peal to war.
Each man jumped to his scissors, his
pencil and his material and went to
work to beat all his competitors in pro-
Rucing a costume to which he could
point with pride and say, with a spread
ing, arrogant gesture, "this is the ulti-
mate pinnacle on which art and econo-
my can stand entwined."
II have made a gown from ~
yards of worsted," said a famous Fifth
avenue designer, "and it is good to look
at"
81 hope the woman is" said the lis
tener.
ooh, have added other materials"
quickly explained the designer. "The
gown does not affect the minimum of
visibility"
The frock had to be brought down
from the workroOms to prove the point
that its wearer would not break the
law Of economy in wool or that OF
proper drapery. 1t was of black wool
en- material, made with a bodice that
became bib in front and long panel
in back fastened with bone buttons
from neck to heels. The underslip was
of plated black satin, with a sash of
itself that tied loosely over the wide
sandwich back.
dreds that are being offered.
A Chance for the Trade.
Exploitation Is the life of the trade
In wOmen's clothes. When the govern
ment Joined hands with the traders in
helping them over a serious situation,
there was joy in the land of apparel.
On every side we hear of efficiency
blouses, economy gowns and cOnserva-
ton suits. Each firm assures us that
less than three yards of wool Is en-
ployed in each costume, because the
firm is too patriotic to withstand the
appeal of the government.
The traders are trying to go the gov
eminent lone better" and not even
reach the maximum measurement of
Az yards per suit.
Individual designers insist that no
wool should be used In the new clothes.
They confine their acceptance OF it to
embroidery made from ends of yarn
that cannot be used for knitting.
We are shown remarkable street
frocks and restaurant gowns which de-
pend for their color and brilliancy
~
upon waste paper basket materials, so
we are told-quarter yards of colored
woods that were left from army and
navy garments.
We are shown efficiency gowns in
which gold-colored foundation Is cov-
cred by black georgette surface, the
latter unlocking at the shoulders and
dropping down to form an ornamental
apron on the skirt, to disclose low
necked satin blouse suitable for a res
taurant and party.
There are economy costumes in
which georgette foundation in pas
tel color is disclosed when a one-piece
Jersey tunic or polonaise is taken from
1T. With the latter in its place, the
gown is suitable for shopping, for
trains and for the morning activities ;
and with the somber jersey pinafore
shed, the georgette gown becomes a
fragile thing, butterfly emerging from