davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

NaE radicals are at II again,
They are agitating for the
Standardization OF women's
70 q dress as a war measure or
equal Importance with the
conservation of food. Ru-
mors Of frocks all alikef cut by the
millions and placed on the market
for the coloners lady and Judy
O'Grady, so that they may become
sisters in their attire as well as un-
der their skins, reach us from time
to time through the sections OF the
daily press devoted to women's af'
fairs.
3, Sometimes the arguments are
atite learned. The French revolu-
tibn Is freely quoted as being the
event finally responsible for the
Standardization OF mems dress. TO
be sure, one of the first things that
Napoleon did, when he reached the
position Of being able to set the
fashion. was to make mems clothes
as gorgeous and as complex as they
had been before the abolition of the
Bourbons. But the effect did not
last long. Sans culottisrn" had
taken too firm a hold on mems af-
fections They soon went back TO
that dignified but ugly garment, the
long trousers, and they have re-
manned faithful to them ever since.
Students of the history of cos
tune cite this as an example, and
tell us--some hopefully, some regret
fully-that the present Armegeddon
will do the same for women. But
then come otherS-students too, but
students of the human nature back
OF, the clothes, rather than Of the
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

clothes themselves--and they give
an emphatic NO. TO the whole prop
osition.
"The standardization OF women's $
dress has gone as far now as It ever
will is their contention.
They concede the fact that the
manifold occupations which the war
mas opened to women may, and
probably will, do great deal
toward breaking down the preju'
dice which has hitherto existed
against the betrayal of ones pro-
fession in ones dress. One of the
salient features OF our metropolitan
Hfe is that all the shopgirls and
stenographers try to look like wom-
en- of leisure; that the maid will ape
the mistress on her Sunday off, and
that, in short, no woman is willing
TO concede that the motley Of her
means Of livelihood Is the only wear
Uniforms, which various branches
OF the new Industries for women are
adopting for the duration of the
war, will go far toward getting us
over this feminine idea. Man has
never bothered much about il. A
doctor is perfectly willing that his
black coat. his little bag and his
silk hat should advertise his medi-
cal degree to all beholders. Painters
and craftsmen have been quite
frank about their working clothes.
Painters still dress in white, though
surely that is the most Impractical
thing they could do; postmen wear
their horizon-blue trousers to gar
den in at home, careless of what the
neighbors may think of It. And so
Il goes.
Very busy women-and what 9TH
er kind is there at present may
make insistent demands for clothes
that are easy to get into. Easily
adjusted, madam. will sell more
gowns this season than the catch
phrase, This is what they're wear.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

surfaces, their freshness, their delic-
ious color.
Don't suppose that mere war is
going to make women lose sight OF
the advantage that a harmonious
color scheme in dress can give them.
As sex women have more feeling
for color than men, they 1espond 10
1t more quickly, they understand
how to adapt 1t to practical uses
better, and they certainly spend
more time studying it in its relation
to their complexions. There is here
and there an adventurous male soul
who dares indulge his color sense
in his shirts. socks and ties, but he
is one of the most popular targets
for the genius of the comic artist"
and the shrapnel of the paragrapher.
Millions of masculine necks in this
vast country are enriched with the
same brand of white, shiny collar.
no matter what the color of that
neck may be. Sombre shades of
blue, brown. gray and here and
there timid green, are pre-empted
by the tailors as mems wear"
oolors, and he is a brave spirit who
dares transgress the diCtum.
To woman, however, the whole
range of a futurist palette is free.
Let her take due thought for her
hair and her complexion, and she
may put together am shades she
pleases. While we were under the
influence OF the Russian ballet her
fancy certainly was as untrammeled
as a bird in the blue; some women
were walking rainbows.
Fabrics, too, are discreet Very
popular are net, foulard and organ
dy. One may he gay in foulard IL is
true, but one ia more apt to be navy
blue or black or gray in II. OrganPy
is subtle in its color range, not strfk-
ing, and the clothes that we con-
struct of II have an atmosphere Of
"old-tlmeyness" far removed from
anything so smashing, dashing, as
the Russian ballet color combina-
tions. In less expensive fabrics,
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

ing" Coats and suits and one-piece
dsesses will maintain their popular
ity; "shirtwaists' that launder Ike
a mans shirt will refuse to be oust-
ed But there will always be more
variety in women's dress than there
is in mans. and women as whole
will continue Ito be more preoccu-
pied with the question OF where
withal they shall be clothed.
one reason for the continuance
Of variety In feminine attire, in spite
of wars and rumors OF wars, Is the
fact that women as whole are rest
ed by a change OF occupation. so
the business woman. on her return
from her office, is quite willing to
sit down to stocking darning, so that
she may continue to wear the
threadbare hose in which her heart
delights; she sits up late to run RIB
bons in her lingerie; she Will wash
out and iron her own neckwear In
order that she may make her serge
suit or frock more becoming by
softening IL with frills at the throat.
Did anyone ever hear OF the man
who washed his own collars? He
will polish his own shoes--tradition
says that he will perform this OPP
GRAFTON more willingly and oftener
than any woman; he will brush his
clothes-but there his sartorial mea- =
sures OF preparedness end. So he
is naturally restricted to a form OF
garment which is easily kept in
order.
Another reason is the average
mans absolute insensibility to
changes in temperatlEe-at least
from the woman's point OF view. He
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
Pretty Summer Fr0ck.

A summer froc,s for scmi- formal
occasions Ia an essential OF the we'll
dressed woman's wardrobe. Printed
voiles, chiffons and georgettes are
the fabrics in highest favor for these
frocks Taffeta. however, is to SEQ
ono OF its most fashionable seasons
and tho maid or matron who boasts
OF a taffeta frock made along ex.
tremely simple lines Will have .
correct costume for any occasion OF
formal or informal nature.
An afternoon frock is a fascinat.
ing model made by uniquely COM
bining white taffcta and black silk
velvet. The velvet is used on the
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
A Gandouhra G0pn.

Lucky is the girl who can claim
the distinction OF being an attendant
at one Of the fashionable military
weddings which are so popular this
season, and she is luckier still IL she
wears a gown like Gandouhra-
This charming draped creation Is
called by that name because It means
wrapped around me-"
Long lines and graceful dyapery
are the things which mark the
gowns designed for the bride and
her attendants. The bride. OF course,
comes just as In the old days all in
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

down TO the last detail OF the length
OF the sleeve, the placing OF a rib
bon, as Paris does would be an i'm
possibility. America In too big. BY
the time New York had succeeded
in distributing its models TO the last
demanding woman, som ething else
would be in vogue. And then there
Is tho natural Jealousy in one section
Of the vast continent of another Sec
ton, the tremendous climatic varia-
ton; the difference In the mode Of
living: and n thousand other less
striking reasons. Tho style influ-
ence. launched In New York, would
spread and widen itself out OF exis-
tence. as the rings made by a peb'
Bile dropped In n pond lose them
selves as they spread from the point
OF contact
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
MOVED LINGEaIE oAps.

Novelty. charm and grace are com-
bined In two negltgees of extremely
opposite typs. An oriental creation
seems TO have been designed es-
|pecially for the sophisticated young
woman who might 20 so far as to
enjoy violet scented cigaret In her
boudoir. A lacey robe. however, was
never intended for anyone save n
very young. coquettish maid who Just
loves to lounge for an hour or two
with romantic story and some
chocolates.
The vivid colorfngs of this fanci-
full negligee which originated 10 tho
far east, gives 1t richness equal to
that Of the lace robe. 1t Is fashioned
Of softly brilliant red crepe dc
chine. which Is veiied with black
chiffon.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

Printed designs are popular on all
thin materials such as chiffon, voiles,
and organdie.
Filet lace and tiny organdie plalt-
ings are the favorite trimmings for
every kind of fabric.
Japanese cotton crepe is being
fashioned into smocks separate
skirts. and entire dresses
Chiffon and marquisette weaves OF
all kinds are distinctly in favor and
there Is a tendency toward the use
of voiles.
Outdoor clothes promise to be
severe and simple. and their plain
ness is relieved by gay Innings.
GinEhams have carried over their
popularity from last season, but the
really new thing Is the gown Of cal
leo
Though not new this season. syl-
vette ST a material which is being
much used for palm Beach clothes
and spring gowns
Fashions this season are exceed
iugly kind to the woman who is
| Striving TO dress senslbly for the
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

white, bo Il satin, georgette, crepe
de chino or velvet, The other frocks,
however, carry out whatever color
scheme is used.
This gown is particularly suitable
for the June brides attendants be-
cause It ls becoming to most figures
and can be fashioned OF any num-
Der OF desirable materials. Pale
yellow satin In an unusual Egyptian
drape Is pictured. The bodice is sill
yer embroidered ttlle and turquoise
blue ribbon Is employed az fncing on
the bottom Of the skirt and on the
large bishop sleeves.
A single hand-painted water lily
provides a charming ornament for
tho corsage.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

which are among the few things
that remain within the reach of tho
woman OF modest budget there are
the printed Voiles, the ever popular
ginghams, and the seasons revival,
calico, or percale, TO give IT the name
under which it Is sold in most
places.
Several sketches on this page
show adaptations Of these materials.
Organdy is used for the clever.
transferable fiChu shown in one Of
the sketches. Here is revival from
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
Sunday Q Worlds New York Fashion Lette
The CooneS La Judy OGady Become Sisters Their Mode AH

and deficiencies OF cut can he clev-
erly hidden by a frill. II Is a long
time since we have been 80 pas
tural.
There must he one piece frock
in every summer wardrobe, and IN
the big sketch there is an attractive
version Of Il. organdy has invaded
tho province OF tafteta--nn orEaniy
dyed a discreet navy blue. in order
that 1t may be considered practical
As a matter of fact. though colpred
ncckwear at first sight seems 10
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

organdy, A very clover mlllincr
showed some hats this spring which
were 'transformahlc that is to
say, they had crowns and hrims
which one could take apart and
combine again in great variety. \
white silk brim could be worn with
soft crowns OF different colorrd or
CANDY, to match different frocks.
and the operation was SO simple as
to be fool proof"
Another sketch gives an old FASH
ioned revival for a calico fruck, com
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

lens by buying ginghams and mus
Inns and hiring the services OF
dressmaker "by the day"
Are all these women going to be
bound down by Standardization? or
course not.
Besides the feminine failing OF
buying a thing, not because one
needs 1t. but because II Is cheap TO
which the makers of summer ran
rics have always catered, there is
the eternal fascination of the mate
rials themselves-their sympathetic
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

straight narrow panel In q very un.
usual design. The round monk like
collar is also velvet ms are the three
tiny bands on the large bishop's
sleeves.
The large filmy picture hat has q
transparent brim OF white georgctts
which'is stretched over q wire frame
that is fiower-shaped. A black
feather ornament placed against the
crown trims II.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

Watteau times, which gives an in.
valuable hint for the freshening Of
last summers tub dresses, which
were too severe for this seasons
fancy The hat has borrowed some
of the same material. Though It's
brim is of straw, the mushroom
crown, which might also have been
taken from a La Tour pastel. is OF
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

If the theater guided fashion in country as it
does in Paris, might untimely reUiUal of
Wateau fashions, judging by the reception accorded
to the Louis Ky gopns pOrn by Billie Burke in Henry
Muler's revival of "The Marriage of Convenience"
The torOn has gone mad her hoop skirts and her
poIOdered treSseS.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

bined with organdy in the form of
sash. Elizabeth Bennet might
have worn this froCk. Judging
from Hugh Tompson's illustrations
OF her, she probably did so. Even
the hat IS n modified poke bonnet.
These are the things in which the
home drcsSmaker can triumph.
They offer no difficulty TO speak Of,
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

This year more discreet. Brilliant tones are
still to be seen but the general feeling is Of mod
Grafton in all things In color The 0audv shades
reserved for legitimate sport clothes for use IN
accenno notes Of the costume. small and insi0nif
cant In themselves that only keen eye notices them
at ALL sf8
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

The very newest and very smartest
war" thrift economy In woman's dress
Is the foundation or slip. It's possl-
bilities are almost limitless and its
variations are most aluring. Those
women who are brave enough to
adopt something entirely new before
II has been approved by the masses
will find that this style permits OF
any number OF original designs.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
Yes. Jim. Until Yon KICK In.

Jim-"Your wife does know how
TO dress, eld man. You have to
hand it TO her for that"
Tim-"Yes, and also foot the bills"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

The Way of our Frocks this Year Is an Or
CANDY and Calico One, with Frills and
Fichus Picture Hats, and Other Feminine
Fluffiness Borrowed from Another Age.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

A foulard froce is one Of the best
wearing garments which a woman
can include in her wardrobe. Not
too formal for morning and quite
formal enough for afternoon wear,
IL may be worn during many hours
Of the day. II need be. wartime in
formaiity will even allow It to appear
in the evening.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09
Notes About Fashions

sensible fabrics are the fashionable
ones. First in popularity are foulards
Of dull or lustrous finish In navy
blue or black Printed chiffon,
yoile and marquIsette foll@~ close
behind them.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

Dark Colored Fabrics and Old-Time Fashions
of Quiet Tendency as Concessions to the In
sistent Demand for Clothes that Are War
Like in Character
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

Printed designs are popular on all
thin materials such as chiffon, voiles,
and organdie.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-09

Fashions this season are exceed
iugly kind to the woman who is
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05

liar operations by the British around
Villers- Bretonneux, just as in tho
north the fighting has been left almost
entirely to the artillery
The big guns are still booming
threateningly in the Avre region and
elsewhere around the great Mont Di-
der salient, however.
In Palestine the British have again
met and defeated tae Turks in en-
gagements in the vicinity of the river
Jordan. Attacks by the Ottoman
troops on two successive days were
beaten off with loss to the enemy and
pm the fighting the British took more
than 300 prisoners.
Dispatches from Paris announce
that another of the German long range
guns engaged in bombarding the
French capital has been put out of
action through a direct hit By the
French artillery.
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05
SENATE PASSES
ESPIONAGE BILL
REED AND HARDWIck ONLY Dem.
ocRATS TO VOTE AGAINST
THE MEASURE.
Maximum Penalties for Violations of
the Law is Twenty Years in Prison
and Fine of $4,000 or Both.

Washington, May 1.-Protracted
controversy in the senate over the
sedition bill to penalize disloyal acts
and utterances and interference with
Liberty loan sales and the army draft
ended late today in adoption of the
conference report on the measure by
vote of 48 to 26. The house is ex-
pected to agree to the report next
week. Opponents of the measure who
have contended that freedom OF
speech and the press would be cur
tailed lost their fight to strike out
clause giving the postmaster general
authority to withhold mail believed to
violate the espionage laws and to re-
store the France amendment excepting
from the law truthful statements made
with good motives.
The bill initiated year ago ana
provides maximum penalties of twenty
years Imprisonment and a $4,000 fine
or both, for wide variety of dis
loyal acts. 1t amends the espionage
act and with the woman spy" bill re-
Gently passed, completes the cycle of
legislation urged by the department of
Justice as necessary to cloth the gov
eminent with power to deal with Sc
dition and disloyalty and prevent mob
violence which has resulted from the
departments inability to secure con-
victions of persons making disloyal ut
terances That the legislation Is UNI
necessary, unconstitutional too drastic
and forces too wide discretion upon
administrative officials, have been the
arguments Of those opposing
it. The final vote today was along
nom partisan lines.
Two democrats, Senators Hardwick,
of Georgia, and Reed, of Missouri.
joined with "a republicans In OPPOSE
ton.
AS redrafted by the conferees the
bills apply during the war TO persons
wilfully uttering "disloyal. profane.
scurrilous or abusive language about
the form of government of the United
States, the constitution, the military
or naval forces. the flag or uniform
of the United States or any language
intended to bring the form of govern
ment of the United States, the con-
stitution, the military or naval forces.
the flag or uniform of the United
States into contempt. scorn, contume-
ly or disrepute.
1t also penalties language intended
to incite, provoke or encourage re-
sistance of the United States or pro-
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05

Washington, May 4-Preeident VII
sons action today in pardoning two
soldiers OF the American expedition-
airy force who had been condemned r,
Death by military court martial in
rance for sleeping while on sentry du-
ty and committing to nominal prison
terms the death sentence imposed ON
two others for disobeying orders. was
viewed by army officials as approved
by the President of Secretary Bakers
stand against the imposition of the
death penalty into the army except in
special cases.
Priyates Forest ID. Sebastian. OF
Eldorado, Illinois, and JEFF Cook. of
Lutte, Oklahoma, weer the men par
doned.
In reaching his decision the presi-
dent took into consideration their ex
IRENE youth and concluded that they
did not realize the seriousness of their
offense and possible disastrous results
to the units to which they were at
tached.
Prvates Dion I.edoyen, of Atlanta,
Ga. Stanley G.. Fishback, of Connell-
ton, lnsAana, were the men convicted
OF dis6Deying orders. Their sentence
was communted to three years in the
Federal prison at Fort Leavenwortn,
Kansas, and they will be brought to
this countrp for Imprisonment.
Details In these cases have not been
made public. All four were volunteers
in the regular army.
The presidents action was in line
with the recommendations made to,
him by Secretary Baker who made
full investigation of the cases after the
sentence of the court had been re-
viewed and approved by the judge ad--
vocate generals department.
Secretary Baker previously had
gone on record against the adoption OF
any general rule for the imposition OF
the death penalty for military Of
lenses when this was recommended |
by national guard commander as
necessary to stop the growing number |
of desertions from his division. The |
bulk of the American army has been |
too recently taken from their individ- |
ual homes and influences to permit a |
thorough understanding by the SOL |
ders of the stern justice of the ar
my, Mr.. Baker held, adding that it |
never had been proven that this pun
ishment would act as a satisfactory |
The recent execution of sixteen no
gro soldiers in Texas after conviction |
on the charge of rioting resulted in
President Wilson issuing orders in
such cases should be sent to him for
final approval Army regulations give
General Pershing full authority to
order the carrying out OF death sem
fences but in these cases, he sent the
record to the war department for
Unusual interest has been shown In
the four cases and they were the first
among the troops in rance OF these |
cases.
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05
First Time Infantry Has
Operated Under .Protec-
ton of It's Own Artillery.
Critical Situation is Officially Conced-
ed to Be Developing in Austria Gen
eral Won Arnim Has Been Forced In
to Inactivity By the Severity of His
Losses in Flanders.

With the French Army in
France, May 4.-(6y the AS
ISOLATED Press, )-An official note
says:
"On May 3, three hundred
American soldiers, after careful
artillery preparation, raided the
German lines at Dogs wood in the
lorraine sector, penetrating
through the German first, second
and third lines.
"The raid constituted the first
time that American infantry in
this sector have operated under
the protection of their own artil-
lery."
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05
RENT THAT VACANT
ROOM

People looking for rooms turn to the
classified ads of the newspapers to see
What is offered. An ad in the Sentinel.
Record may bring a customer.
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05
FIRE THREATENS
ROCK ISLAND ARSENAL

Davenport, Iowa, May 4.-The entire
Rock Island arsenal for a time this
evening was in peril Fire was dis
covered in the rafters of one OF the
largest warehouse buildings. This
building was stored with explosives
OF the most powerful nature. Prompt
work by the firemen held the flames
in check before they reached the eY-
plosiyes. The origin OF the fire Is
unknown
The Sentinel=record. (Hot Springs, Ark.) 1900-current, 1918-05-05
WI AT H E r
FORE { A ST

Forecast for Arkansas: Sunday,
partly cloudy, warmer in west portion,
Monday, partly cloudy, warmer.