The Washington herald., 1918-06-17
WOMEN'S SHOE
TOPS LOWERED
BY WAR STYLE
Eight-Inch Limit Set by
Council of Defense
Order.
MEMS APPAREL IS CUT
"Fawncy" Trimmings and
Excess Pockets, ETC.,
Are to Be Barred.
MEMS APPAREL IS CUT

Casting its eye up to the point to
which women's shoe tops scared heav-
onward last winter, the Council of Ma
tional Defense has ordered a retreat
&C.. +. C. Stout, chief of the hide,
leather and tanning section OF the
council. is responsible. Eight inches
from the breast OF the heel to the
top Of the shoe, measured on the side,
with a size Alb as the base measure, :"
he says. must be the limit.
The chief of the hide, leather and
tanning section" issues a statement
which pnakes it appear that he is more
concerned with the function of his Of
flee having to do with what the shoe
tops hide than with either the leather
or the tanning end OF it. He says
that spats and cIoth-top shoes must
observe the same S-inch limit.
Furthermore, Mr.. Stout bellies his
name with a concern for youthful
slimness. The height limit for the tops
OF misses shoes must be not more
than a bare 61e inches.
No New style Lasts.
And. furthermore. again. in order
that gewgaws may not defect the
masculine admirer from natures own
curves, contemplation of which Mr.
Stout, according to his statement,
thinks will help with the war, II is
ordered that no new style lasts be
sprung upon the public this year.
There are other regulations to this
end. too. Shoes must be either white,
black or two shades Of tan. Patent
leather shoes must BE black only.
Women's button shoes must not be
more than 81 inches high. Leather
must be used for lining only where
absolutely necessary. And even the
box from which the shoes are sold
Is to be controlled. 1t must be either
plain white or gray with the label
only on the front end and flap.
You are requested" Mr.. Stout
writes the shoemakers, ito use eco
nomical cutting patterns, to cooper
ate with wholesalers and retailers to
restrict the return of merchandise.
to reduce the number of new boot
samples for women, and to encourage
the sale of low cut and low effects"
Committee Approves.
The program. Mr.. Stout says, has
been approved by the Executive Com
mittee of the Council of National
Service of the Shoe and Leather In
dustries.
And" he says, this program will
be made effective in this form unless
substantial reasons are Immediately
presented which necessitate its modi-
fication."
1t was impossible to learn from Mr..
Stout last night what he would con-
slider a substantial reason for letting
a lady wear her shoe tops higher.
And If the men have all ceased
snickering it is possible to tell what
the Council of National Defense is
going to do to mems clothes this
year. It's a plenty. 1t doesn't stop
with shoes. For instance:
In sack coats only one vent in the
skirt: no patch or bellows pockets
of cloth; only three outside pockets
in any coat and the facing not to
be more than 1-2 inches wide, fn-
ished at the breast.
No Sweeping Sack Coats.
Nor are coats to be made long and
sweeping when of the sack style,
Starting with thirty inches in
length for the perfect 36, a quarter
of an inch Is allowed large sizes and
for the abnormally long a grace of
1-2 inches will be granted.
In waistcoats more lining and less
cloth must be used. and the facings
must be kept narrow.
In trousers there can be no back
straps and flaps. The outlet on the
leg seam must not be more than 3-4
inches. and, trousers may not be re-
enforced with wood cloth.
No more double breasted light
weight overcoats. Chesterfield
models only to be used. and they not
more than 4S inches long, starting
again with the perfect SO. Rain
coats are limited to 4S inches in
length and the width Of the collar
must not be more than 1-2 inches.
No more double coats with de-
tachable Innings are to be permitted
to civilians.
No samples over six square inches
and only ten styles of sacks in all.