The Emmett index. [volume] (Emmett, Idaho) 1893-1925, 1918-07-18

beginning of the war 1t was for short
time the seat of the general staff.
Even today its streets, cafes and ho-
tells are thronged with soldiers. They
monopolize everything. They have ta-
ken one of the eight churches which
go to make up the intensely interesting
basilica of Santo Stefano Tearfully
the sacristan's wife told me how they
are using the building for storeroom,
how they have damaged the walls and
ruined the paintings. AS the guide book
fails to give even the merest descrip-
ton of the church In question, it is
doubtful If it contains anything worth
special protection. Possibly the sacris-
tan's wife exaggerates. But she Is
antimilitarist and wound up long re-
cital of her woes with the reiterated
ejaculation: "And to think that there
are some people who wanted this
war;" Since the war began hardly
soul has visited the tombs of Saint
Vitalis and Martyr Agricola. Churches
Seven and Eight are closed. Life is
indeed askew.
The military have occupied the park
above the Piazza deli Agosto-a re-
minder of the heroic days of 1913 and
Italian ''risOrgimento.'' Here as
throughout the entire European world
the military are the masters.
1t is market day. All Bologna is in
the streets. The Piazza di Re EMO is
the scene of motley throng. The
Rnlnnnaco tint
gent. The town is the center of the
book trade. 1t breathes culture. 1t is |
also center of industry and has a |
socialist administration. This fact has |
undoubtedly emblttered the struggle
between Catholic and freethinker.
Crusade Against Profanity On.
On the walls of the cathedral 1 no
ticed strange announcement. Tomor-
row, 1t informed me, the church would
witness the Inauguration of crusade
against blasphemy and foul speaking,
to be undertaken by none other than
his eminence Giorgio Gusmini, cardi--
nal prince of the church and arch
bishop Of Bologna. Cardinal Gusmini
has recently opened a "school of re-
ligion" in his own archiepiscopal pal
ace, intending thus to inculcate more
firmly the rudiments of Christian the
ology among the lay youth.
But the cardinal has outlined no easy
task. The ancient motto of Bologna is
'libertas," easily taken to mean free
lom from restraint. The Bolognese are
turbulent. Early in their
history they embraced the cause Of
Suelf against Ghibelline, burgher
against knight, and though they bore
he yoke of the proud Bentivoglio fam
ly, theirs was no herbivorous submis-
'ion. The civic theater today occupies
he former site of the Bentivoglio pal =
ice, burned in 1907 by an angry mob.
With Milan, Bologna pours forth ever
resh life to the socialist liberalist cur
ents in Italian politics. And, coincf-
lentally, Milan and Bologna are the
My two towns in Italy where there
xists anything like the so-called night
lfe of great capitals. In this respect
S in many others Bologna feels big
er" to the visitor than the number of
IS inhabitants would imply.
INTELLECTUALLY. the entire city is in
ontrast with the ardent pleasure-lov-
lg character of the inhabitants. The
othic municipal buildings, which tes-
fly to an ancient and intense COM
lunal life, the many fine churches, the
of fine private palaces, the
overs, the miles Of arcades, the we'll /
upplied yet severe display windows,
i've a thoroughly monastic air to the
lace. Alas for externalsl One soon
iscovers that cafes are numerous and
ell frequented. The easy freedom of
ologna might be taken by pietist for
nipple godlessness. Yet Bologna is to-
ay one of the most interesting cities
| Italy. Too long 1t has been buried
nder the reputation of Florence, rich
r In museums surely, but not nearly
} interesting modern city, nor so fine
specimen of the antique. Externally
Bologna bears comparison with it,
tuscan rival.