Middletown transcript., 1918-06-08

new YOrk.-I0o fe1CxmeES VINO ar
que against the buying Of hats as wei
as gowns are arguing against human
nature. A woman may ecOnOmize o!
any other part of her apparel, but thu
change of season sets her whole na
ture throbbing to get new head cover
ings. declares q prominent fashion au
thOrity.
When the black of winter may be
exchanged for the flowers Of summer
the tide of purchase sets in. and the
current runs strong. Hats We must
lave. They may be part Of new cos
tunes, or they may be accessories to
redeem and enliven old costumes, but
we must have them.
A good deal is said by the refOrmers
these days which we wish could be
left unsaid. It Is difficult to approach
this matter without suggesting that
many of us are not sincere and that
our patriotism, fine and strong as it
inay be. runs away with our tongues.
One feels that it is we'll that there is
no earthly wartime Judge before
whom we must all come, who puts our
talk in one scale and actions in the
Other.<
Hat With erim Replaces Turban.
France and America have each seen
the fitness of the brim that shades the
eyes at a time when the sun pOurs
straight down. instead of obliquely.
The turban is. after all, the between
season hat. 1t is not entirely elimi-
mated from the scheme of things, but
it has yielded first place to the larger
hat. The high crown. however. has
not given way to the low crown. There
are the new sailors which. with their
high crowns and three-inch hrims,
threaten to Overrun the continent like
a swarm of locusts.
These are both cheap and expensive.
well draped and badly draped; they
are in midnight blue, black, beige and
red; they are made of rough straw.
and although they are excessively
smart. they have hard. unyielding
line. On the hard face they are ugly:
in juxtapOsitiOn to small, coquettish.
frail face they are alluring.
Mind you. the hard, stiff brim is not
the only one. If it were, thousands of
women would give up the struggle to
be good looking. for the woman who
realizes that hat makes or mars her
face is the one who knows how to
dress. All the gOOd-lOoking gowns in
the world cannot affect the eyes. the
nose and the skin. It is the hat and
the neckwear which lift you to the
pedestal of prettiness or throw you
down into the ditch of ugliness. There
are immense. sweeping brims in fash
ion which you may choose if your face
needs softening and irregular lines.
There is an ultra-smart hat which
leads the way. It is made of pleated
strawberry georgette crepe faced with
black straw, with wide band of straw
encircling the crown. Wherever 1t
goes this hat is copied in various col
Ors and worn in the afternoon.
Those who feel that the brim must
hide the forehead and nearly eclipse
the eyes may still cling to the mush-
room shape. which is permitted In the
best society; and those who feel a
thrill Of happiness at the mere men,
tiOn of English garden hats may go
in for this particular type Of pictur-
esqueness with the realization that they
are striking the absolutely new note
in this summers fashion.
1t was Jeanne Lanvin who brought
out the huge Organdie hat with its rose
on the brim. and since then the Amer
lean designers have tumbled over them
selves in their effort to introduce chif
fOn and Organdie hats made in pastel |
colors, combining old blue and deep i
pink. The rose and the long streamerS |
which trim this type Of hat suggest |
the garden party. so let us hope that |
the average woman will realize that
the hat cannot be worn on the street.
The lace ruffle at the brim of the
large hat is another fashion which has ?
been revived from an older and more