davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27

y
bright But who can add that tbero
IS any novelty in that? Could anvtb;no
De more intense than the coors h.,,o
been for the last two or three seasonsq Cou
'a'hiy they are marked contrast to the co,orc
worn some decades ago, when it was repardcd
as indicative of either color blindness or bar.
oarlc taste to indulge in anything more than
touch OF brilliant purple, scarlet. yerdant
green or much less bright yellow.
We still regard these colors AK ;nd;c.+;,o =,
primitive taste, but, of course. the idea nov, ;s
that one isn't thoroughly modern without bcino
primitive.
True the colors of the next season arc co-
ing to be bright, but that is not the d;st;nc.
ton. The distinctive thing about the color
tendency at present is the change that bo.
come about in the general feeling of the t' ft
ness OF certain sorts of color Once we had
our evening shades our afternoon shades
shades that were suitable for lingerie shades
That a debutante might wear and shades that
she might not. Now the idea seems to be to
break down all these barriers and to wear
Wnat might have been street shades in the
evening If we choose and evening coors when
and where we wish Most shocking of all-if
you wish to be shocked--is the attitude we
take toward suitable shades for lingerie Light
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
Shoes Are the Only
Standardized Wearables

In the belligerent countries, which, after ALL
are our best and only really practical guides
IN this matter. attempts of the kind have been
limited so far to control in France of tho
manufacture of Shoes
The government in order it is said. to secure
enough leather for the shoeing of a nation
TOOK over their manufacture, set standard pat
terms Tor men, women and children, which were
10 contain leather of stated quality, in stated
quantity and which sold at prices rano;nu
IRON somewhere about So for men to some
thing like S4 or $3.50 for children. Other va.
rletles OF shoes continue, however, to be made
so'o ana worn, but this parental regulation
guaranteed a real leather wel!-made shoe of
sooa wearing quality, at a reasonable price to
those who chose to buy it,
so far us other branches of women's dress
arc concerned, the consensus of opinion in all
countries seems to be: Glands off," The in
dustry reminds one of those insdous grasses
winch, once planted in a certain soil Greens
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27

Tan Jersey embroidered in rcd and black
There is black tie, also patent leather belt
everywhere under the ground, mngling with
every other plant that grows, twning it's ten
drills about their roots, so that to uproot it
means to kill the thing it cings to as well.
Not that the spread of this industry has had
deleterous effect upon others existing along
side OF it; the contrary is the truth. But their
lnterdependcnce is SO complicated and so cum
nlngIy entwined that the effect of brusquey
checking the growth of the one is problem
before which the best brains in the country NAV
we'll pause before they begin to experiment
with their theories.
Government interference in the CLOTHING Of
people Is not new. We read of sumptuary laws
all through the Middle Ages and of the detianrc
OF them by the wives and daughtcrs Of the
burghers, who could not prevent their women
1olk from adopting materials, furs and velvcts
reserved by royal decree for the aristocracv
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
HAT AND VEST OF BOIDIY
CHECKED JERSEY CLOTH
l" green and white The vest is loosely belt.
Cd and all the edges of both hat and vest are
bound with bright green cloth.

'As soo'l as fifteenth century merchant of
r'orehce' for example, began to make money
ne began also to desire that his wife should
ofess the part to which his prosperity entitled
"e'' Inc instinct OF mcr to bedizcn their
women is as old as the human race. ~.~
Adam undoubtedly delvcd the harder that
Eve might have more time to put fringe of
stems on her iigleaf apron, and when she wore
1T he felt that he getting on in the world.
and that the neighbors (for there must have
been some outside of Eden) recognized it and
cnved him his fortune
Ihe aristocracy of Florence would notice the
1ul-hned sleeves of the merchants wife and
one OF them-probably very wellborn and
hard-favored ady-woud be sure to comn)a;n
TO her husband, who then, if he valued his
peace would bring the matter to the attention
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
American Docility
Under War Restrictions

:; II our government should make any such de-
cree cree IN our day, we should probably see very
little opposition to it. The country seems -
oe IN CONDITION Of amazing docility Who
~ou'u nave oelleved that few short months
"ooid see food administration with arbitrary
powers government management of railroads
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27

ana 'ne steady and swift approach of prohi-
bition?
-. lake 'he very question of woman's apparel
nc limitation OF yardage was a voluntary
measure adopted by all concerned before the
government had made one move toward the
industry. 1t was beau gcste, as the French
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
CHECKS - THAT'S
FOR SPORT

Coat of blue jersey
cloth, with blue and white
checked trimming of COL
lar and cuffs, snd a skirt to
match them. There is .
white linen vest.
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
Many Patterns Means
Senseless Waste

One of the speakers at that meeting drew at
tentlon to the fact that, though there was not
a man in the room who was wearing what
might be called conspicuous or Individual
style of cloth in his clothes, yet there were, in
all probability, not two suits in the room OF
exactly the same pattern. Among twenty men
III blue serge each will have a suit made from
a different weave and dye. This is a waste Of
effort and material which might be remedied.
and suggestions for limiting patterns of con-
servative materials for mems wear were made
IN the interest of wartime economy.
The same ideas have been applied to the
manufacture of stuffs for mems shirts, and
even to their shoes and neckties. Results Of
impressive benefit to the community at large.
10 our allies and to our own fighting men are
promised If these reforms are carried into fact.
SO far no such proposition has been y1adc
with regard to the industries which deal with
the dressing of women. In fact, the pressure
of opinion has been very definitely against
Standardization of feminine attire in anv form.
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27

(NTANDARD1ZAT1O OF mems dress has
- already become more than mere tenta-
tive suggestion. New York papers car
rled the story of suggested regulations in mems
attire on the front page a few weeks ago. alone
with the war news, the coal shortage in New
York. the 13-below-zero temperature and other
striking happenings of day and generation
IN which exciting events have become almost
commonplace.
The Importance of the further suggestions
emanating from the economy board was i'm
medatcly recognized, and with front page
space at premium, as it is to-day, the story
was deemed of sufficient moment to be given
place of honor.
There was nothing extremely radical in the
ideas advanced They included some of the
suggestions already made at the now historic
meeting of dressmakers manufacturers retail
ers, fashion writer's and editors and others
held at the Waldorf in November to discuss
the adoption of the slim silhouette with view
to limiting the consumption of wool
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
AN ORIENTAL EVENING

q; half'toiette of embroidered silk, with a
sleeveless coat, and sash placed high and tied
at the side
OF the authorities. Often the offending wife
would be brought to justice; quite as often sbo
would escape.
At any rate punishment of fines and imprjs-
onments never seemed to leave the nobility in
the enjoyment Of their privileges, for all his
tory and memoirs of the times are full of cases
of such rebellion.
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
No Standardization

All Concerned With
Women's Apparel Are
Agreed That Nothing of
the Sort Should Be At
tempted at Present-The
New Mode Caters More
Than Ever to Individual
Tastes-No Radical
Changes in Sight Except
the Narrow Silhouette
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
Limitations a Spur
To Imagination

DressmaAers nave acknowledged ALREADY
that this suggestion of Imitation this diff
Guilty, has spurred their invention 1t is like
the rules of a game which are necessary to in
sure good contest.
Never has a study of ones individual tvpe
been profitable than at present. There
are styles to suit all figures, all faces and all
incomes. If a woman likes Oriental effects.
turned under skirts, straight, armless coats
and sashes, she will find them, as she may in
the sketch shown to-day
If she prefers the Occidental, she may choose
the frock of gray silk. with an embroidered
cape and tunc of chiffon, and keep the SASH
weighting it with bright pink rose
She may fold length of brocade around her
and hang her arms and neck with strands of
jewels. She may swathc a satin frock in
clouds OF tulle; she may cut it plainly of crisp
taffeta. She will find Endorsement for anv
fancy among the products of the biggest names
in the world of dressmakers
Study Your type is more important so
gan than ever, for it cannot be said that any
definite clothes guidepost has been erected
for our guidance along any one definite road.
Rather there is a series of delightful paths
each one tending in the same general direction.
but each with cndearing characteristics of It's
own. They merely wind through the same sort
of country.
woman with any idea at all of what suits
her will surely prefer this to the single monot-
onous highway common to everybody These
variations shared By all phases Of dress.
They are just true of the new millinery
No sooner do we hear that small hats arc in
the majority than the news OF graceful droop-
ing brms breaks upon us.
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
on To Be Applied to New Fashions

Americans Are Amaz.
ingly Docile Toward
Government Regulation.
but History Proves That
Sumptuary Laws Have
Never Yet Succeeded
Even in France Control
Is Limited to. Shoes
Women Now at Liberty n
Wear What Suits Them
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27

say, freely made by the leaders of the great
interests connected with womens clothes.
So, with that much settled, we pass to the
consideration of the sartoral outlook for
spring with quiet minds. 1t is an attractive
one, in which Individual good taste and good
judgment will have full play within the limits
of four and half yards Of material
New-York tribune., 1918-01-27
NTIRE COSTUME OF KNITTED
MATERIAL.

The snug sweater top is in green, with skirt
to match in green and white. The white collar
ties with knitted cord ending in knitted ball.
of green.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
Hertling Again
Tries to "Pass
Buck" to Allies
IpternationaI -. service:

T
AMSTERDAM. Feb. ga tan
gibIe peace is assured unless the en-
tente powers are deaf to humanity
and reason by adherins to their
aims of conquest and desire TO
continue the war" Count Won
Hertling. the German chancellor
was quoted as saying i'm advices
from Berlin today giving further
details Of his speech before the
reichstag.
The chancellor was quoted fur
ther as saying that the advance Of
the Germans i'm the east was de-
signed only to make the Ukrainian
peace good.
Germany has no intention of
conquest nor of establishing herself
in Esthonia and Livonia,' the dis
patches reported the chancellor as
adding.
Count Won Hertling said there
were other voices audible in Eng
land, notably Walter Runciman.
former president Of the British
board of trade. and Lord Miner
evidently meaning by this that he
has thought there was a difference
Of views in England as to the con-
tinuance of the conflict
The chancellor went on 10 say
that it was necessary TO look after
the interests of Austria Bulgaria
and Turkey regarding Roumania,
adding:
I'VE must and Will make friends
in those states which, thanks to our
armies are now 10 conclude peace. q"
The chancellors reference 70
Roumania and the necessity %
make friends, was am intimation
that Roumania has or is about 20
enter into a peace agreement with
the German allies.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
18th District
Democrats to
Meet Tomorrow

Democratic county chairmen OF
the 18th congressional district. ac-
companied by their precinct COM
mitteemen, Will meet with Dist.
Chairman +. A. Cast of Warsaw.
at the oliver hotel Wednesday for
an organization meeting 10 be ad-
dressed 10y Fred Van Nuys. secre
tary of the Indiana state democratic
committee. and Ralph W. Moss. di-
rector of the Indiana Democratic
league. The chairmen and commit
teemen Will have luncheon at the
oliver at 1880 o'clock 10 be fol-
lowed by the discussions of organ
ization methods. which the state
secretary and league director have
in mind.
tt is expected that not less than
half the precinct committeemep
viii meet with their county chair
men al this meeting. which results
from a gathering of the county
chairmen held here two weeks ago.
Arrangements for the = luncheon
were made Tuesday boy County
Chairman Frank Mayr. jr. Secy Van
Nuys, whu comes with message
from State Chairman Charles a.
Greathouse. was democratic floor
leader of the senate during the 1915
general assembly and Director
Moss. a former congressman from
the NTH district The work of or
ganizine democratic leagues 20
northern Indiana viii be taken up
by the latter
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
VIII NOT IMPRESS
ENTENTE NATIONS.

THE HAGUE. Feb. 26.-Desplte
the fact that Count Won Hertlins.
the German chancellor, told the
reichstag that ne agreed fundamen-
tally with the four underlying peace
principles laid down by Pres't VIII
son on Feb. Il. the belief was eX-
pressed IN diplomatic circles today
that the chancellor's address would
not make favorable impression in
the allied capitals.
The partial account of the speech
received here at the time this tele-
gram was written indicated that al
lied statesmen could md ample
grounds for charges OF insincerity
against the German chancellor.
Chief material for such an accu-
sation lies in the open war of, az
gression against Russia which Gee
many is now waging
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
HELD TO GRAND JURY
FOR FAILING TO FILE
DRAFT QUESTION: AIRE

international News Service:
INDIANAPOLIS. Ind Feb. 20
Charles NJ. Flanagan, "a farmer iv-
ing near Lebanon. charged with
falling 20 Tile his QUESTIONABLE. to-
dav is held 10 the federal grand ju ~
under $1,000 bond. Flanagan denie /
the charge brought before United
states Commissioner Charles W
Moores. Sheriff Lewis of Boone
county and number of other wi--
nesses declared Flanagan had open
ly asserted that he would not re-
turn his QUESTIONABLE. Sheriff Lewis
said that while there seemed 60 be
no widespread plot in Boone coun-
"a 70 evade conscription. Flana gan's
was the most obstinate case that
had come 10 his notice. II was sad
that both Flanagan and his brother
were forced 20 register when they
failed 10 act voluntarily.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
COUNTY To HAVE
BIC FOOD SHOW
Many Organizations to Help
Make Local Exhibition a
Great Success.

South Bend and St. Joseph coun-
ty, following the example of Chicago
and other cities, is to have a food
production. conservation and thrift
show. The show will take place in
the high school building, March II
10 is. inclusive.
Daily demonstrations OF canning.
drying, and other similar work are
10 be held, grocery displays Will be
on exhibition, and lectures on vari-
Gus topics Will be given each even
ing. More than so booths will be
established
THE purpose Of the show, ex-
plains John 5. Bordner. county agri-
cultural agent, lis TO educate for a
thorough going readjustment of the
community 20 .he emergency neCes-
STATED by the war time demand for
greater production, persistent and
practical thrift. and more consistent
conservation and substitution of
food"
Pictures and Lectures a Night.
The show will he open between 10
and II O'Clock each morning. 1880
TO $3.50 in the afternoon, and 1850
20 . O'Clock each evening. Moving
pictures. music and lectures will
make up the evening programs,
while demonstrations and the like
viii take up the morning and after
noon sessions.
Organizations working on the
show are the high schools OF South
Bend and Mishawaka, the public
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
WOULD WELCOME
ACTION BY JAP AN
Active Participation of Island
Men in Russia is
Possibility.
-LnnaL NeNs Serxlce

international News Service
WASH HINGTON. Feb. 26.-The
suggestions coming through unohi-
cidl Japanese sources that Japan IS
about ready actively To participate
i'm the war by going 10 the aid of
the anti holSheVik elements in Si-
beria deeply interested Washington
today Officials refused comment IL
was pointed out that it would os
.> unwiSe to DO So iuasmuch as. =
Japan intends 20 get into action
against tine German dominance and
control of Russia her plans should
ot ue Lnterfered with i'm advance.
DO was very frankly explained n
official quarters, that the United
states "h1s every and all confidence
iu Japan and her rulers" and that
whatever action she finally takes
viii be enthusiastically approved bs
,he United States and all of the en-
tente
Japan viii protect the Pacigc
should Russia become German
yassal state. as now seems certain.
officials said today The United
states viii be left free 20 conCen-
trate sl OF its men. money and
ships ON the inland in France. Its
great we.ght in everything war like
which has been entirely counted on
oy The entente 90 weight down the
scales asliust the German military
machine. viii bee delivered exactly
as originally counted on.
The Russian Developments VIII
not change this in any way. OFF,
cial> say. on the contrary they Will
simply speed up all war prepara-
uons here and make easier the car
rying out of Sec OF War Bakers
promises that the FUN military
strength OF America viii be put in
To the held without delay.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
PLANNED
To MAKE ENGLISH
FOREIGN TONGUE
Alliance Urged Extension of
Teaching Language to DOM
mate Schools.

WASHINGTON. Feb. 26. ~ Bull
letins distributed among the MEM
bership of the National German
that the teaching of German in the
public schools be 50 extended that
English would come TO be consid-
cred the foreign" language. were
read 10 the senate judiciary sub
committee Monday by GUstavus OIL
niger of Toledo, O.. continuing his
testimony against the alliance as an
UnpatriOtic organization. Since that
time, the witness said, the alliance
paign in behalf Of the teaching of
German.
The subcommittee is considering
bill by Sen King Of Utah. which
seeks to dissolve the alliance. Of
dcials of the organization are TO be
heard next Saturday, according 10
the present plans.
The bulletins referred 20 by OIL
niger were printed and bound under
the title German-American annals,
and were published before the alli-
ance was chartered. Some Of them,
as translated by the witness ad-
vanced the idea that Germans com
ing to the United States should in
thought. nature and acts" remain
Germans. though taking out citizen
ship papers TO get 20 vote.
Conducted Campaign For Funds.
Mr. OhIinger testified that the al
. O. ss-.,
money to aid in the defense OF an
editor Of a German language publ
cation i'm Philadelphia, who had
been indicted for reasonable utter
ances: that the bulletins failed to
condemn the sinking of the Lusi-
tania or the invasion of Belgium.
and that meeting Of one OF the
subordinate orga mutations in St
Louis after the Lusitania sinking a
resolution was adopted reciting that
the United States government should
thank Count Won Bernstorff for his
having warned passengers not to sail
on that boat. In only one issue since
American went 10 war, he said has
there been any commendatory refer
ence in the bulletins to the part
played by the United States
Ohlinger told the committee that
Gustav Jacobson, who was arrested
i'm Chicago for having participated
i'm plots to destroy plants manufac-
turing munitions. also was a leader
i'm the movement to stop the ship
ment of supplies to England, and
that the alliance was favorable to
the propaganda tc stop the ship
ment of supplies 20 the allies before
the United states entered the war.
Refers to spy Book.
The witness referred 10 "a book
German Spies i'm England, writ
ten by William Lequex. who he said.
quoted the German emperor as hav-
ing said i'm 1908 that G. J. Hexamer
of Philadelphia, formerly president
of the alliance had been of great
service to the German cause. The
words attributed TO the kaiser were:
IF man ever was worthy of
decoration at my hands it was Herr
Dr. HeNamer. the president of the
league. who may justly be termed TO
be- by my grace. the acting ruler
of all Germans i'm the United States "
lr his testimony on Saturday Mr..
Ohlinger said that Or. HeXamer re-
ceived the order of the fourth order
Of the red eagle in 1904 from the
kaiser for his services TO German
"kultur" i'm the United States.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
FACED WITH CONTRACT,
AGED PUBLISHER DOESN'T
WANT DIVORCE AFTER ALL

International News Service.
DENVER. Colo Feb. 26.-The
divorce suit of Jacob Feudner,
wealthy publisher OF Rushyille. Ind,
and the cross complaint and plea
for $500 month alimony Of Mrs.
PeIle Feudner. halted suddenly IN
the district court here al the request
II counsel for both sides. 1t cost
Feudner s2.50O for attorneys fees
and court costs 10 learn he did not
want divorce. The aged publisher
made this discovery when Mrs.
Feudner was preparing 20 offer as
evidence prenuptial agreement
which the husband believed had
been destroyed
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
KENTUCKY GUN FIGHT
MAY LEAD TO ARRESTS

international News Service:
CLAY, Ky. Feb. 26.-%rrests are
expected today following a factional
gunfire in which Frank Beadler was
shot 10 death i'm a battle behind box
cars. Bad feeling existed for sew
eral days between Beadler ana
clans which were inimical 70 him.
Twenty shots were fired at Bead
Ter from behind railroad cars, nine
Of which riddled his body over a
score of men were lying in wait for
Beadler
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
PHONE OPER ATOR PUNIMELS
GERMAN SNMPATHIZER

Three cheers for the South
Bend telephone operator who
gave a carp" named Lena a
much deserved pummeling when
the latter said she didn't care
who won the war Wei. ] do.'
declared the Spunky American
girl. AS she rained "a fusillade If
blows on the pro-German face
and head before the latter could
get out OF reach of the belhEer-
ent one and scamper of toward
home without even waiting t0
Alright her badly disarranged
treSSeS-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
International News Service

International News Service
WASHINGTON. Feb. -Charg-
ing that there is insidious and
reasonable propaganda being con
Quoted in this country misrepresent-
ing the causes impelling this coun-
try TO wage war against Germany"
Sen. Swanson of Virginia. who has
often spoken for the administration
today set forth in the senate the
causes which forced the United
States into the war.
In making his charges against the
alleged propaganda. Sen. Swanson
said. Engaged in this work is a
motley crew composed of fanatics
German spies and sympathizers.
persons corrupted with German gold
and promises. officered by a few
selfish politicians who foolishly
think they see a chance for self ad-
vancement. although it may result
in a wreck of the country"
Not Confined Here.
This German propaganda is not
confined to this country" Sen.
Swanson said, but it has arisen in
every country where German gold.
spies and influence could permeata.
1t has Strangled the new. hopeful
Russia and is now obtaining oy
treachery what it could never OBJ
tain by arms-the making of Russia
the political slave Of Germany. Dur
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1918-02-26
PROTECTION RECORD BRoKEN

IufFrnIU UUnHI Wv. NrrTlrc-
VINO ENNES. Ind, Feb. 26.-The
worlds record for coal production
was shattered here. 10 was an
nounced today when the American
coal mine in this county hoisted out
5.91i tons in eight hours yesterday
The previous mark was $3.50. held
by an Illinois mine