davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
WOMEN NEED NOT SACRIFICE,
ART FOR ECONOMY IN DRESS
Mrs. Bertha Hoey Ne, York; Leads Crusade against "T.cin
= Foes of Tastelessness and Extravaganza" and
Designs NopeI ''Wardrobe''

shows how her simple conception OF
dressing not only offers an almost IN
finite gamut for personal expression in
dress. but also permits the garments to
be worn throughout the life of the ma
terial
Fashions" she says. were once welI
enough when they expressed at least the
individuality OF class. when the color or
a gown marked the rank Of dukes
daughter or a pretty burgher heiress
but now fashion has not even this power
Of distinction the chic and aristocrAtic
damsel frequently has to undergo the
helpless rage Of seeing her Paris gown
in ghastly parody upon some CHUBBY
burlesque of herself"
Mrs. Holley's wardrobe" has three
parts--a slip, an undertunic and an
overtunic Various combinations MAKE
it possible to wear this adaptable gown
at any time of day. the slip with long
sleeves for the street and afternoon
wear, the slip with the overtunic and
short sleeves or no sleeves at all for the
evening "
The great advantage of the gown ~
the field for exquisite color combina-
tions. for the overtunic and undertunic
can be of contrasting tones of chinon,
the sleeves and the cut of the slip can
he varied a thousand ways and always
in the bounds of harmony of line. while
the overtunic can be made gorgeous with
hand-painted designs or splendid en-
broidery. Monotony is impossible, de-
cares MRS. Holley. and the garment be-
comes as expressive of personality and
changing moods as the very face Of the
wearer. 80
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06

DHILADELPH1A women who permit
L their thoughts to stray occasionally
from domestsr duties to the chronic in
terest of clothes may give these thoughts
thoroughly patriotic twist by consid-
ering the sublest artistry In dress as
allied with the shrewdest economy.
Mrs. Bertha Holley, of New York. is
leading a crusade against the twin foes
of tastelessness and extravaganza. which
she says are. as a rule. inseparable. Mrs.
Holley bases her plea for beauty in dress
on the assertion that. while beauty has
its cost. 1t alone of all things retains its
worth forever
"A beautiful dress" continues Mrs.
Holiey. could not be useless dress.
dress too elaborate for actual wear. for
In this day we all realize that real beauty
is synonymous with completest service.
The most harmonious lines for ship
| are usually the lines that give speed and
usefulness"
Then Mrs Holley outlines her plan of
garment which combines the most ex-
quisite qualities of color, texture and
distinction with Il genuine economy. In
the first place. this garment. or ward
robe'-which. in fact. 1t isis superior
to the ruthless extravaganza of fashion.
Mrs. Holley vehemently condemns the
tyranny of Fashionable rigid patterns
molding every type and temperament and
condition of woma nhood to the same con-
vention, suppressing the personal varia-
tions which throughout nature compose
the very essence of beauty and charm -
Fashions are the deadly enemy to
economy, says Mrs. Holley. and she
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
Alice Kent and the Days Work
The Story of a Business Girl Who Would Not Fail
Bv MARTHA keller
Bv MARTHA keller
cnrurtnht. 1913, bp Public Lcdger Cor pnru.

was talking, somebody opened the
door part way, but observing that the
principal was occupied, departed without
disturbing us. Among other things /
told Professor Freeland I understood
that college students often paid their
way by teaching district school, and |
wondered whether. as a senior in the
high school, | couldn't do the same?
its hard work" he replied "espe-
cially in winter. And the pay is small
But now I'm working hard and don't
get a cent for it, What's more" | con-
tinued with some warmth. Il haven't
minute to myself. If | were teaching
school [ wouldn't have to mind babies
or do hoIsework And after school ]
would be free for my own studying, so
! ought to keep up with my class here"
Good enough. :" This was a favorite
exclamation of the principals. Il have
my doubts about anybody hiring such
diminutive schoolma'am But it won't
do any harm to try"
He then advised Ane to apply to the
committee Of half dozen towns for
the position of teacher for the winter
term of district school; This advice was
followed by the suggestion that ] write
the letters now. as materials were ready
to my hand. Nothing loath, | picked
out a stub pen from The tray on the
table and opened the inkwell; Professor
Freeland in turn handed me some note
paper and stamped envelopes, gave me
permission to refer to him, wished me
good luck and went home.
In the quiet of the room. which was
broken only by yellow-backed bumble-
bee droning III the sunshine high up on
a window pane. composed my first
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
French Wartime Recipes

spinach II Ia Reinc
Three and one-half tablespoonfuls but
ter substitute.
One-half tablespoonful chopped onion.
One quart spinach, boiled and chopped.
one tablespoonful flour.
One-half cupful milk.
Three and one-half tablespoonfuls
Swiss cheese.
Salt and pepper.
Three eggs.
Six shrimpS.
Cook the onion in the butter substi-
ture, add spinach, and fry quickly. Add
Season with salt and pepper; add grated
cheese, and when 1t starts to boil re-
move from fire and add well-beaten egg
whites, then yolks, also we'll beaten. and
bake in very hot oven for ten min
utes. Garnish with the shrimps
salmon II la Mornay
Four potatoes.
Two cupfuls boiled salmon or one can
salmon
one cupful white sauce
one half cupful Swiss cheese.
Mash the potatoes and line a creased
baking dish with them. Add the cheese
to the white sauce and pour half of 1t
over the potatoes. Add the fish and
cover it with white sauce and buttered
bread crumbs Bake the fish in the
oven for twenty minutes. This fish also
may be served in shells.
MsckereI au Gratin
Two fresh mackerels.
Two shallots.
Two tablespoonfuls chopped parsley.
One-half cupful buttered bread
crumbs
One teaspoonful vinegar.
Bake the mackerels in a moderate
oven for twenty minutes. Remove the
fillets replace them in the dish and add
the shallots, parsley and bread crumbs
Bake ten minutes, and then add the
vinegar and serve immediately.-Delin
Gator.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
A Peep Into the Future OfFr0cks
4 Daily Fashion Talk BY Florence Rose

THIS is really the hardest time of the
i year for the poor fashion writer, who
realizes that summer has only just be-
gun and that women are Just begin
ming to realize that they need summer
frocks, whereas most of the shops are
already Offering great bargains and en-
deayoring@te get rid of summer clothes
90 that with only a few exceptions there
are few really new things for summer
shown.
on the other hand, there are new
things which designers are turning out
for the fall season and suca good-look-
ing things, too, that one really longs to
tell about them, especially when there is
ona that does not look too wintry and
has interesting ideas.
For these two reasons I fell victim
TO the dress which is illustrated today
As YOU understand. 1t will probably be
over a month before this frock is dis
rIaved in the stores throughout the
country. so, in showing you this dress
I am allowing you 20 peep under the
curtain into the future.
The serge and taffeta combination is'
as we all know, not new, but then 1t
has not been used of late to any great
desree-that makes 1t different; and
besides there is something quite youth
full in the combination of serge and
plaid taffeta, at least when the design
ing is we'll done, which may truthfully
he said about this model
The panels are of blue Serge and are
hound with black silk braid. The deep
shaped cuff and the collar are of serge
and are also braid-bound. Buttons or
nament the panels and the cuffs and
finish the neck line The sleeve and
dress foundation are of the plaid taffeta
The girdle is also of the taffeta and is
finished on each side with the blue
serge.
The hat worn with this dress is of tan
felt and is decorated with two rows OF
blue wooden beads held at the back with
a blue satin bow.
Copyright. 1918. by Florence Rose
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
YESTERDAYS ANSWERS

l. Mrs: VI. +. Holland was one Of the first
persons In America to tench finger
print work to Government ofiicIaIs,
she studied this In scotland Yard
:. The womnn's royal naval service l. n
woman's unit In Great Britain. II was
created TO release man-tower for the
navy by taking over where possible the
navy's work ashore. "
s. Daniel Beard was the founder of ,h.
hoy Scout movement here in America :
!. When the yolk Of an egg IL left over II
snn be made into an appetjzinc in
dlNidunl breakfast by adding II In left
over potatoes and frying Ms an omeIet,
D. When home-baked beans are served IN
the small family the leftover ones cno
be canned by the cOld-paCk metboJ
Just Ms vegetables and fruits are. Tba
beans are put into Jars which are
partially sealed and allowed 10 boi, in
Mhter over their tops for two houra
Then the Jars are sealed. ''
D. homemade rack for the haitian, ~
the washboller to be used for canniny
can he rigged up by puttinr n niac.
Of coarse window wire in the botto,,,
of the boiler and placing four iitt1a
bioeks OF wood underneath to support
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
A Hymn to the Stars and Stripes

TO the Editor Of womdn's Page:
Dear Msdsm-Our President appointed the
past Decoration Day as a day OF prayer, but
did not Hive us prayer to be used on that
day. have written this little prayer
and a hymn to our nag. Do YOU think
thev are good enough 20 he printed In your
cclumn! II so. let m, see them for the
Fourth OF July; But ! wish you would
kindly correct them at the same time. be-
cause, you see. I have not much edu-
cation. Thanking you in advance,
STEADY READER.
gaA HYMN TO OUR BELOVED FLAG
May our beloved nag long wave
For the mhny noble causes that she has
defended
May the Lord His blessing give her
TO accomplish the noblest sacrifice that at
present she 10 making
To free the people In this world forever OF
barbarism and conscienceless rulers.
Who for 10 find's sake nifty, their own
people keep in slavery
Your letter came too late to be printed
for the Fourth, so I use II now. The
spirit IN the prayer is very good, but the
Lords Prayer is so beautiful in Its
original form and so adequate for every
need that I think Il Is not necessary to
change IT, I am sure you will agree
With me when you think II over. The
hymn ia printed, though, as you see.
thank you for it, The thought is
worthy.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
Success in Canning
success in canning depends upon !:

Success in canning depends upon
First. Fresh fruit and vegetables
Second. Perfect fruit and vegetables.
Third Good jar bands-Good Luck
Bull Dog.
Fourth. Alright lids
Fifth. All water must be boiling vio-
lentIy. .'.a
Sixth. Time must be accurate in the
cooking in the Jars
Dry all foods which cannot be canned
at lao degrees +.
Test with II soda cracker closed in the
jar of dry food. 1t should stay crisp.
If il becomes limp. dry the food over
again. .a
Dry food is lcathery. not crisp.
Soak all dried foods at least six hours
before using. and cook in the water in
which they were soaked, in order to re-
tain all the valuable mineral salts
Keep dry foods in jars that would
not do for canning or in empty can with
removable tops. which have been boiled
In washing soda and water to remove
any strong odor.
Every ounce of food which Il woman
conserves releases corresponding
amount for the woman who has not tho
opportunity to store away food.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
WHEN a MAN CAN'T. GIVE
WHAT SHE'S BEEN USED TO
This Is the Stumbling Block in the Way of Thousands OF
Happy Marriages-NIany Times 1t FLourshes in the
n Mind of the Young Lady's Mother

GO MUCH is said about the match.
~ making mother-the mother who
oop1es down to the parlor to unfold
social triumphs of her daughter
while her daughter is upstairs putting
q hnal dab of powder on her nose
that 1t is interesting to study the
other extreme of this type of parent.
She does not come downstairs to talk
TO Anna Maries beaus. She does not
. second plate of Strawberries with
the fond hope that he will grow to
Ike the family and come early and
often to call on Anna Marie.
You see, the other type of mother
mas never seen a man who is good
enough for the child OF her heart. Is
II love that makes her criticize the
young fellow she has peeked at
through the lace curtains in the sec.
s0nd-story front as he and Anna Marie
20 out for their first Sunday after
noon walk? Is it the mother in her
that says about the Thursday night
caller. We'll, you might as we'll get
that out of your head, Anna Marie,
that you're going to have anything
to do with him? I have often won.
ldered.
Recently letter came to the
Woman's Page telling of a girl who
had been having callers for FIVE years
and who had yet to display one that
had proved to her mothers liking.
TT MAY be love Sometimes one can
j not agree with but can at least
realize the viewpoint of this mother.
She and the man she married have no
doubt shaved for years to give their
daughter the position she now occu-
pies. Most of the young men who
come to call on her have far less to
offer in the worlds goods than they
have. That unalterable conviction
that young girl must start where
her parents leave of" is the one
standard by which a mother of this
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06

type judges all her daughters callers.
This more than anything else, / be-
lieve, accounts for the spirit of criti-
cism in the home which manages TO
make the lives of hundreds of the
incest girls in the world absolutely
miserable.
TT is all very we'll to say that a girl
l. need not pay attention to this
criticism. but it is very hard to carry
your own convictions unsullied through
the shrapnel of upsetting opinions.
There Is no doubt about IT., Criticism
of our friends from those We love has
a way of producing an effect on our
own opinions oS them. And so the
harm that parents do in this way can
never quite be calculated. Girls lose
faith in their own judgment and frit
ter away year after year waiting for
the impossible.
It is almost useless to go into the
matter of having a young man give
girl the things she has been used to-
II really can't be done. The labor
market has not yet adjusted itself so
that $4,000 or $4,000 a year salaries
are voted young men who can bring
to 1t only the glory of greenness.
this world; wisdom and experience
must reap them as rewards or what's
the use striving?
TT is up to mothers who indulge in
L this fatal Carping to stop for their
daughters sake. The youth of "A girl
does not always stay with her. Only
Just so long will young men flock to
her side on Sunday afternoons. There
may be stray chances for her to marry
later on in life, but there are just as
apt not to be. Let your girl live to
look back and remember how her
mother helped her to find her path of
happiness. There are some, you know,
who can only look back and sigh
what might have been"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06

boy cannot have some training in draft
ing or drawing. II he could get posi-
ton as office boy in the art department
of some newspaper or in a draftsmau's
or architects office he could help his
family and get some training at the
same time OF course, he would not have
much drawing to do in this kind of
work. but being with men who know
about such things and hearing II talked
Of all the time will give him practical
knowledge that he could not get without
a regular school training. In time he
should be able to make enough to take
a night course at one of the many art
schools in the city. | hope he will have
success, for IL he has ambition he surely
deserves all the help that can be given
him in getting a start.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06

have not gotten the picture, 1 love this boy
and don I want to lose him
think could win him II he were here
Please advise me whether or not to write
TO him. Should I say anything about the
picture? Should I ask him to state his
feelings toward me or Just write 4 friendly
letter? VIVIAN :.
Write him friendly letter if you want
to and toward the end say. I'm waiting
for the picture you promised me-" DO
not on any account ask him his inten-
tions or his feelings toward you.
You have only known him a month
and could not be sure of your own feel
ings in this regard. and certainly a
months friendship would not warrant
your demanding any explanations from
him. If he has sailed, he has not been
able to write. Perhaps he cares for
you, but you must not expect him tc
tell you so in such a short time. o.
course, men have been known to proros'
in a short time. but it is not usual; 81
do not try to precipitate something To-
which you might be sorryslater
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
Summertime Salads
Tomato Jelly Salad

One quart tomato juice, one teaspoon
full of salt. one of sugar. half of pepper,
a little cayenne pepper one tablespoon
full of chopped onions, ten whole cloves
simmer for fifteen minutes. Have soaked
in cold water two tapiespoonfuls gea-
tine: add dash of paprika and add to
the tomato; strain in small cups OF
molds, When 1t begins to set. add a
few slices of hard-hoiled eggs and some
sliced olives to each cup. Serve on let
tucc leaves with mayonnaise dressing,
Delicious Cheese Salad
Crush with a fork cottage cheese
slowly drip into it enough ready-made
French dressing to make thick as q
rich boiled custard. Keep stirring all
the time You can flavor with little
onion in the French dressing If desired
This is excellent on ettuce.-celery. po-
ta;o and many other salads. Garnish
with slvers of sCalded red peppers
olives. capers or anything else at hand
for company - hard-boiled egg, etc
Keep it pretty thick.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
Go Out With Others

Dear Cynthia-T am having a little cx
perienCc in love just now. I have been
keeping steady company with girl for four
months, a girl love very dearly. and I
also know that she loves me ] go to her
house and know all her people. have
she has given me an excuse that she
busy or had other Engagements.
coulh not think OF taking another girl
out, although several pay good deal OF
worried | don't know what to do with
me the same story. She saws she likes me
and her people like me. but that they object
to my going with her I am twenty years
of age and will have to register next year,
and they are afraid II have to go to war
she will be heartbrokeE. Please give me
advice in tonight EvENiS" PUBLIC I.EDGER.
b. B.
In the first place, my dear young friend,
it is not a good plan to 60 with only
one girl unless you are engaged to marry
her. This keeping company Is a mis-
take. 1t excludes all other friends and
Especially as in this case) when it ends
in a break causes much suffering to one
or the other. 1t seems rather evident
that the girl does not care deeply IL
she did she would certainly want to
go out with you or If not, have you go
see her oftener than you evidently 20
now. Start taking other girls out. If she
will not 60 with you. 1t would be a
better plan decidedly and will make
her understand YOU are not to be played
with
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
CHAPTER LII

CHAPTER LII
MTHEN entered Professor Free
w laVs Office at the close of school
that afternoon. for wonder nobody
was there and until the principal ap-
peared | kept turning over in my mind
what | meant to say 20 him. especially
the opening sentences. had heard
somewhere that difficult undertaking
is half done when it is Veil begun; ac-
cordinRly, in the hope of bringing the
interview quickly to Il successful end. |
was eager to make exactly the right
start But when Professor Freeland
after having been waylaid. he said, half
a dozen Times. finally walked in. crossed
over. to the long table whose green baize
top Showed many ink spots. seated him
self in big armchair, smiled at me and
said, Now, Alice what is ito" | was
so confused that / burst out with some
thing ] had never thought Of putting
In that form till then: professor Free
land, do you think ! could teach school,"
The words were no sooner out of my
mouth than ] realized they were un-
fortunate, in view of the distressing facl
that the principal himself had recently
marked my Nergil examination paper SO
per cent, when 10 per cent was the
passing mark Aghast at my faux pas.
opening when he replied: why yes
some time. If you want to. Bm." with
another smile, why not wait till YOU
grow up"
That was just like him Not the
slightest reference to the poor quality
of my work AS a pupil. no suggestion
that it hchooved me first to learn some
thing perfectly myself before aspiring
TO teach anybody else. no hint of sar-
casm. Only friendly reminder that
it would be we'll to wait until reached
an age suitable for scltbolteaching!
/ But you see. | can't" was my reply
! And the way | said it must have shown
| that although my years We're few. I had
many anXieties. However. It developed
by and by that whatever information
may have been conveyed by looks or
manner was superfuous. In the first
place. Professor Freeland had the gift
Of understanding furthermore school
girls working for their board-and as
concerned themselves. making sorry
| job of it--wcre not new in his expert
enCe. From my first day in the class
room he had suspected the difficulties
under which ! labored at Mrs. Warning
| TONS and of late had been seeking
means of helping me. At the time how
ever. | had no idea of this all knew
and ! could not then have given eX-
preston 10 the truth | Recognized
that there was quality I'm the silence
with which he received my statement
that waiting was for me impossible
which encouraged me to go on and tel
| him why.
began with the break with my
grandfather and lsave for emitting men
ton of my sister, reCounted the lead
ing fac of my experience since then
Professor Freeland, with bent head
heard me through; several times Will
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06
Women Cooks in the Army Service

1t is the avowed policy of the surgeon
generals office of the army medical de-
partment 10 release men as far as pos
sible by employing women in the service
In this country. 1t is now stated that
women cooks can be accepted in base
hospitals of cantonments upon the sp1-
cial recommendation of the comr1andi{1r
officer of Cantonment and the state-
ment that he can procure trained women
No general recommendation has been
such a capacity, as in few instances art.
living quarters arranged for The accom-
modatiol of such employees. Because Of
the special mess. unlike any other
branch of the army, OF the aviation
camps. the assigning of trained women
cooks here in the United Statessto such
camps is now being considered sS
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-07-06

The Red Cross

why is there an urgent need for
nurses now?
There is demand from the army
and navy for 5000 more nurses at
once for overseas service. Only
10000 Red Cross nurses are now
with the army and navy nurse
CORPS; the Government has asked
the Red Cross to supply at least
$4,000. Hence the immediate call
to the colors of every graduate
nurse in the country for either
home or foreign service.
What are the qualifications nee.
essary in the Red Cross nursing
service?
That a nurse be a graduate frorn
an accredited school.
That she be more than twenty
one years of age.
That she be physically fit. The
upper age limit is left indefinite,
and is entirely dependent on the
physical examination.