davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
Compromise
With the Twic

Judging from the multiplicity of tunics that
nave sprung up into the spring clothes, there
Is little doubt that the ungarnished, plain, tight
SKIRT Is deplored by the dressmakers.
This is true in America as we'll as in France
and one makes that statement with a boastful
1eellng to-day, for the American houses and
designers have done farrsaching and serious
work this year. They have taken stand that
Is important What they have devised in
clothes is sufficiently brilliant to give, them
hopes for the future. They have acted with
authority this season-a quality that has been
lacking heretofore. They have confidence in
themselves. They begin to believe not in the
supremacy of American fashions, but in new
fashions that are coincidental with thosa 30
the French, and equally wearable.
SO when women re.lize that the American
as well the French dressmakers have in
sisted upon tunics as an offset to the straight
narrow skirt they see that this kind 10
drapery is an accepted fashion, and they prasp
at it eagerly, if their figures are not at their
best in the limited amount of straight material
that the tailored suits offer
These tunics are diverse in shane. co,or;no
and ornamentation. They, like sleeves are
produced in such variety that they clamor for
~ Gnu o"cl W every woman phase
Of dress that she alone can wear
Usually they are .on the bias. The dress
makers like that line.
Bat the whole story is not told in this one
phrase. There are circular tunics, draped
tunics, tunics that are deeply bordered or en-
broidered, or trimmed with disks and scrolls.
after the Chinese manner.
There are tunics that do not match the
skirt either In color Or fabric, and there are
others that are sombre on the outside and 80
brilliant on the inside that they are slashed
over the hips and pleated or draped In order
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21

GOWN WITH BODICE OF SILVER NET AND
PINK ROSES-Skirt of blue chiffon over yellow
chiffon Coat of blue chiffon caught at back
with pink roses.
that their glorious interior may attract the
attention of the observer.
There is compromise tunic that is nothing
more or less than two panels placed at the
walstline to fall over the hips and touch the
hem of the skirt. Many of them do not stop
at the hem, but drop onward to the floor.
where they are weighted with tasses or en-
broldery. When the gown is worn in the even
ing these panels rest upon the floor for ten
or fifteen inches, giving curious silhouette,
Inc simple tunlc as it stands, however.
should bring joy to the respondent hearts Of
many women who look at clothes from the
viewpoint of seeing nothing for them to wear.
ms bit of skirt drapery can be made to fit
into all lines and cover all Deficiencies. It
may be short or long, bias or straight, draped
or PLAIN, demure or gay, just as long as it
makes obelsanee to the narrow, tight skirt
from which it floats and which it nearly
covers.
II Tor reasons of economy one wants to
renew suit or frock to wear throughout the
spring. there is not only the tunic as a means
OF putting new wine into the old bottle. but
tnere IS the better work of ADAPTING the
exact kind of tunic that is needed to anv plain.
narrow skirt
First the seams Of the skirt are STRAIGHT
ened, then fancy and good taste can combine
on the accessory we used to call an overskirt.
but now call tunic
The Waistless
Figure
The garment which vies with the draped
tunlc IN Importance and artistic merit is the
corselet, but 1T can only be worn bv slim
woman. However,, there are MANY tvpes of
corselets. Fashion is kinder than nature this
year.
Inc medl4val culrass was taken as q founda-
tlon Tor our new clothes, along with it's female
companlons-the chemise robe and the tunic
upon this foundation have been built manv
fantastic designs and others that are service
able and sensible
There are wrinkled corselets of Chinese bro
cade which reach from the chin to the hins
with one side cut into deep point and
weighted by jade ring, from which hangs a
black and gold Chinese tassel.
mat IS one type of corselet. Opposed to it
Is straight wrnkled, low-wasted blouse of
dark blue satin, which is carelessly drawn over
the hips by means of turned up cuff run
with soutache. The sleeves are of satin and
branch well out over the hands, where thew
are edged with soutache. This is sensible
corslet, that may be worn over any kind Of
SKIRT 1t is even adapted to deep golden
brown chiffon and the new woollen JERSEY in
oyster white.
Ihere are surplice corseets that are made
OF colored crepe, in natter blue, mandarin
yellow and Pacific coral These have onlv ono
negligent fastening, at the left side. The sur
pllce edge is finished with bit of brilliant
procaded ribbon and the sleeves are long or
short, tight or open and pointed Such cor
slct is worn over black lace skirt or one of
knife pleated chiffon or one Of draped black
satin, and 1t serves for the theatre and for
informal dinners.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
The Waistcoat in Simple
And Ornate Costumes

Cheruit and several other interesting dress
makers sent the waistcoat to America to be
exhibited in the spring showing of frocks, but
the mannequins who wore these new garments
found that the novelty was unobserved by the
majority Of women. Even those who spoke Of
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
Wrapped Skirt
Is DISTINGUISHED

There is no doubt that struggle for SUI
premacy will come between the two fashions
The wrapped skirt will not be content to be
limited to evening usage; it wants to appear
on the street in modified measure. in cloth
costumes.
Already one hears it said that the coffee
bag skirt will not last through the summer
1t is not an admirable model for thin mate
rails such as pongee, extra fine serge and the
new worsted that is expensive but ultra-fash-
ionable-a kind of worsted that was invented
in France and has the appearance OF coarse
meshed thin Angora.
The pleated skirt is substitute for this
coffee-bag skirt, but unless it is done by
machinery it is not acceptable, and women are
not altogether enthusiasticeover the contnu-
ance Of straight pleating. They are willing to
accept it as an unSerskirt, fashioned after
the Alexandrian manner, to serve as a mere
foundation to a tunic of brilliant lines, but
they do not want to use it for whole skirt.
Therefore, the chances are that the wrapped
or draped skirt will have its own way and
creep into the clothes that are worn at 10
O'Clock IN the morning, as we'll as dominating
those that are worn at night.
There is more distinction about the wrapped
skirt than the straight one, but it is quite pos
sible to make a happy combination of the
two.
AS we have habit Of going to the museums
and back to the classics for our clothes these
days, it might be we'll for a student Of fashions
to observe with care the wrappings and pleat-
lngs of the gowns worn by the Egyptians and
all the historic Eastern country, which has
been again placed on the map through the
medium of war flags and marching regiments.
There is something quite difficult about the
convolutions of the ancient skirts, and it is
not possible for an amateur to copy them.
They need the hand Of an artist and skilled
draper to manage the wrappings and pleat-
ings that outline, without combining, the body.
But as it is task for good dressmakers,
and as successful achievement commands
good price, there is certainty that we shall
have many gowns that are swirled around the
figure after the manner that the historians of
dress find spreading through all the primitive
countries.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
Costumes of the Garden PARTY
Species in Pastel Shades

America has taken to herself the credit &c
Introducing new fashion into sprinp and
summer costumery through organizes. naste,
shades, f1uttering ribbons and pink roses
France takes the credit also. Any woman who
IS interested may take her choice Nobody
cares probably, who started the fashion. The
real curiosity rests on the question as to
whether or not it will be popular and suf1i-
GENTLY enduring to warrant investing ones
dress allowance in it,
Looking at it from the point of view &c q
reporter. it seems as though the fashion will
be sufficiently permanent for every woman To
take chance at it. 1t will last until Sentcm-
Der, if one can judge accurately by the present
signs.
The main thing to-day is to find out whether
TINS garden party species of costumerv is suit
able to your especial type of face or figure. YOUR
pocketbook, and, above all, your social oppor-
tunitics. Environment should be the LEADING
factor in the choosing Of clothes.
Each decade there comes about revival of
what the old writer's used to call flower-lile
gowns. The novelists Of other days dressed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21

ment, in the faultless muslns which were SIM
posed to be the costumery of the ingenue, as
we'll as that of the poverty stricken girl
what every woman knows is that the muslin
frock, perfectly made and entirely fresh at all
times, is the luxury of the rich. There is onlv
one segment of this country where muslin
gowns are cheap, and that is in the South.
where the mills produce the materials and the
colored women, who have been trained
throughout two centuries to make these
clothes, turn them out at small price. Rut
as the Fifth Avenue dressmaker points ou+
when this argument is brought to her. the
sewing the fit and the perfection of the froc}
of the North or of Paris are not repeated in
the carelessly put together muslin gown worn
in hot climates.
To-day we face the extravaganza of exquisite
cotton Clothes Embroidered batste, French
organdy, fine communion cloth and cotton net.
called point d'esprit, are the materials chosen
For the evening there are elaborate MATER
lals, but the gowns are made up with the same
idea in mind-the garden party-poor heroine
popular novel style.
Paris Says
Pink Roses
",
bon and Leghorn hats she gives ia an evon;no.
gown OF pink roses blue and yellow chiffon and
a bit OF silver tissue to provide ornament.
One OF the frocks that Jenny, of Paris, has
made for an American girl is shown in this
SKETCH Here you have the new movement in
clothes expressed through the medium of an
artist, IN a dinner or dance gown, for the
American girl still dimes and dances as often az
she works for the Red Cross and drives an am
bulance She believes in turning both sides Of
the shield, in order that she may serve and
cheer and smile and spread optimism as long
as the war lasts.
This frock has pleated blue chiffon skirt
over clinging slip of accordion pleated yellow
chiffon. There is shortwaisted yirdle made
OF silver net over tissue, and lattice work If
ribbon and pink roses goes over the entire sur-
face. The lower edge is scallopcd and these
scallops are bound with silver Covering the
shoulders and making a high d6collctage ut the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
The Lines of the Cos

a WOMAN should give more than pass
~ ing interest to the changing lines of
the spring skirt. It does not change
from day to day, but from morning to after
noon to evening.
One can sum up the whole situation by say
ing that woman begins straight in the morn
ing and is on the bias in the evening" When
she appears the street at 10 a. m. her skirt
must be as straight as her path of life There
must not be deviation in the way of a flare,
a ripple or ruffle. The skirt may 20 in bit
at the ankles, but that is not required by
fashion. 1t must look like straight bag
dropped from the waistline.
In the afternoon the skirt begins to waver
from the straight line. 1t takes unto itself
tunic, which is attached to it or begins at the
waistline. This tunic has ripple and flare,
but its slenderness is achieved through it's
fexibity. The material is soft, ard therefore
the skirt swings to and from the figure with
a good measure of grace.
In the evening the skirt drops all preten-
lions to straight lines. 1t becomes more slen-
der than ever through widths of material
wrapped around the figure, after the manner
of the ancient Egyptians. The cloth may 90
to line above the knees in it's wrapping and
leave narrow pleated rufne that rests over
the ankles and heels, or the wrapping may
begin below the bust and continue to the ankle
with a loose end, or two or three of them,
left floating on the floor to serve as trains.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21
Anything Rather
Than Straw

In summing up the organdy hats, as we'll as
as those of satin, tule and lace, one begins to
believe that anything rather than straw is
chosen for warm weather millinery. The or
CANDY hat is offered as the first thing for the
fastidious woman who is going in for season
OF organdy gowns, and sketch of the best one
that Lanvin made is given here.
1t is yellow, with an immense, sweeping brim,
and the trimming is Chinese blue ribbon
around the crown and beaded rose resting
at the front of the brina. A deep fold of white
organdy runs around the edge of the brim like
a fine ripple of surf
Yellow and blue make combination that one
sees on every side. yellow organdy gown
will have Chinese blue sash, blue organdy
hat will have a yellow band around it, and
pale yellow jersey skirt will be worn with
blue corselet.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-21

Jeanne Lanvin has instituted a delightful
fashion which has the long waistline corselet
blouse and the loose tunic cut in one and
belted at the hips with heavy grosgrain
rihhon o o -'-
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
FAREWELL RECEPTION

On July 18th, grand reception
was rendered Rev: and Mrs. w. II.
Gray BY the friends OF Abingdon on
their departure from our town TO on
ter upon q new field of labor at the
s2rst Baptist church, Christiansbure,
Va. O.
AS the mistress of ceremonies Mrs.
Mamie Lyons called Oh the following
persons; they rendered their parts
admirably, each one showering words
or commentator upon the departing
pastor: Paper, Miss Clara Patter-
son addresses, Revs. Billups, Harold
and Ward; singing, The Liggons
Quartette. After which refreshments
were served by the following ladies':
Mesdames Bessie Cooley Lucy Moore,
Mamie Nicholas, George Byrd, johann
ma McClanningham, Cassie Lawles.
Beuiah Nowlan, Susie Liggons, Har-
r!et HyncS.s Committee on arrange
mcnts: Messrs. Arthur Williams,
BOYD Nicholas, II. B. Goode.
Rev. Gray's work here was very
successful. He greatly Increased the
membership and put the church on
a strong financial basis. He is an
excellent preacher and pastor, being
held III highest esteem by his Nom
bers. Much regret Is expressed by
both white and colored at his leaving
our town. May God bless him in his
new field.
MRS. HENRIETTA LONGLEY.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
THE Y. NJ. @. "A. NOTES

We were happy to have President
A. G.. Clark out last Friday night,
and the meeting was good one. Gem
eral w. B. Ball was on the Voluntary
Rally and showed that the Blues
were hard at work.
Last Sunday was a day that every
boy and man were active and much
was accomplished.
The meeting for the workers gave
the key to the day for service. $3.50
a. m, at the Y. NJ. G. A.. building.
10 a. m, the work in the city jail,
home and penitentiary was great
success and all were we'll paid.
The boys were out in good num-
bers at D. M, at the Y. M. G. A.
building, and they enjoyed tho adj
dress which caused them to think OF
the great opportunities which are
now before them.
Mr.. G.. l.. Anderson gave the men
an address which was crowded with
much thought. Subject, "The Great
Struggle" Every man was helped.
Every man is asked to be on time
Sunday, ready for hard work and
the other man.
The workers will hold an early
meeting at $3.50 a. M, at the Y. M.
G. A.
All boys are invited to the meeting
for boys at p. m, at the Y. M. c.. A.
Mr.. r.. w. Ball will address the
men at $3.50 p. M, at the Y. M. G. a.
Tell the other man. Live singing.
The Y. M. c. A. asked that every
home have special prayer for this
great hour that is now upon us.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
RICHMOND BRANCH N. "A. n. G. T..
ENDORSES EDITOR MITCH
FILLS EDITORIAL
Other Activities

, The Executive Committee con-
) demns the action of the Council Com
mittee on streets In voting to close
Hawthorn Avenue. in Ginter aPrk, to
prevent colOrcd property owners OF
/; the city Of Richmond living in Ginter
! Park, from passing through this ave-
nue..
Colored people use now and have
always used Chamberlayne avenue, in
Gintcr Park, one OF tic finest streets
, In the South, and said use has not
deprecated property values on this
or any other street.
Tho executive committee Of the
Richmond Branch, National Associa-
, ton for the Advancement OF Colored
People. voted unanimusly to endorse
] Editor Mitchell's mastery reply to
the uncalled for and prejudiced edi-
. torial OF the Richmond Virginian,
concerning the recent gathering of
colored editors at Washington, d. c..
The executive committee recon-
mends that our people purchase q
copy Of The Planet for July 9th,
1918, and read this gem from the
pen OF this lifelong champion Of tho
races interests.
The Richmnd Branch has employ
ed Attorney j. Thomas Hewin to
prosecute the conductor who as
saulted Sarah Simms and knock
cd several of her teeth out be-
cause, it is alleged, she refused to
change her seat and bit him. The
conductor was assisted by several
white passengers in beating up this
fiftecn-year-old colored girl.
The executive committee selected
twenty-five Of the leading profession
al and business men and women of
the race to attend the June meeting
of the City School Board, to urge
the election Of colored men for prin-
cipals in the colored schools of the
city. A day prior to the set time Of
meeting, Chairman Hewin received
notice that quorum would not be
present; therefore it would not be
necessary for the committee to come.
The executive committee urges
every colored voter in the city to cast
his vote on August 9Th, 1913. We
must get in the habit of exercising
our citizenship in all local, State and
national contests.
During the fall and winter, the
Richmond Branch will hold series
of meetings to instruct colored men
how to qualify to become voters.
The services OF several Of our pa
triotic and race loyal lawyers have
been secured for these occasions.
DR.. w. II. Stokes. Pres.
Mrs. Maggie T.. Walker, Vice-Pres.
j. Thomas Hewin, Chr. Exec Com 4
e. G. Burke, Treas.
B. A. Cephas, Secty.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
NORFOLK & WESTERN.

ONLY A1t,.RAiL LINE 10 NORFOLK
rf 1says Byrd Street Station, Riohaiond.
800 NJ .e!ta 'S;eo A. NJ, $500 A. NJ,
FOR LYhCHBURG AED THR wBsr: 1870 A.
ARRivE Ric ;aMsn = 20; No,s.,.. ,,.,.
A. ~, sa:46 =. II. Ercm tho West: :1.ss AZ
A. .nail S +; .. M; .s P: NJ. 'sns r. II.
odco, sss r. Main st. Phone. Mad, az.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
RAILROADS
Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac R. R,
THlR

Leave Richmond Arrive Richmond
t840 AM tll.45 AM 7.25 Am e9.l2 pM
At $40 AM 1880 PM tl265 PM 1926 pm
I $50 AM 400 PM go PM sllW pm
.0.li AM t s.i0 pM t 600 Phi tia.so Mt.
kichmond- Washington Local, Iva 2.l0 PM.
week days; GALS Pm, Sundays; Ar. sl2.l5 PM.
daily. fredericksburg Accom-. week days, Lv.
s4.lb PM; Ar. sS.l6 AM. Ashland Accom-. week
days, Lv.s7.A5 AM, $50 PM; Ars6.S0 AM, 5.30PM
e. Abba ticket and baggage offices not open
for this train. sMain 81. Sta,
tByrd 81. Sta. tstopping at Elbal lElba STA.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
Newsstand.

Mr. Edward Cambridge, IL ". Da.
vol Street. agent for the PlGmet,
sand.es all kinds Of newspapers
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
JUSTICE AND EQUALITY
by Rev. Walter III. Brooks, ID ID.
Washington, ID. G.

Have you heard the cry in Dixie?
1t is floating out to sea.
"Southern men and brothers, we arc
Fighting for Democracy"
Brave and horny-handed fellows,
They who fought in siXty-thrce!
Meath the same old colors, wc are
Fighting for Democracy.
And the fathers reaped blessing.
Shall their sons less favored be?
Never, never, men, for we are
Fighting for Democracy.
BY consent OF all tho governed,
Men should rule, and laws should
be,
Every nation it's own master
Haste it That's Democracy.
This we preach, and this We'll fight
for,
Till the fall Of Germany;
Yes, we're shouting down In Dixie,
Justice and Equality"
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
ATLANTIC COAST LINE
THE STANDARD RAILROAD or TUE so,ru.

,,~.x..
RGsetiys Fai.-no.u Wv IaE soUTA'
sIIRAlRs LEAVE R.NCxaAIeNR DAu,Y-ro,
ia sios aad sOuth' $3.50 A. NJ and 0:l6 p. NJ.
pfsr Eerielh: eos A. NJ. 900 A. NJ, $50.
=, FOR n ". RY. wost: o:ao A. NJ, 800 =.
4. Fey Petersburg: 12:45 A. NJ. e,eo A. NJ, $3.50
!, ~ H., o:eo 4: H.. $50 A. NJ. $500 p. NJ.
n "a: NJ $3.50 =. NJ, S:6o P. NJ, 6:1S r.
no nor , Aid Fayetteville: $500 p. N.
=, TRAINS ARRIVE RlChMOED DALY-S:oo A.
FL ,S:lo A. NJ, e:& A, NJ. $40 A. NJ, ie:oS
a.; -. NJ u;lo A: n, .2:lo p. NJ, ssl 80 p. M.
oe9 px r: NJ 90 p. a. 1:45 p; NJ, Sis p. NJ
Time OF arrival and departure and conneetions
not guaranteed.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO,
SEABOARD AIR LINE,

'THR PROGRESSIVE RAILWAY o. TER souvT
Trains lsave daily: 0 A. ~, RosMna, Souaa a:IA
?. T., sleseess Atlanta eAd yssAsoEvfns; ESQ
sleepers Jachsonvilie; 3:4S A. il.
1safas ssvlye ESQ 4. O., sng A. L., bsls o.
n. eve p. L.. s,sS A. Il.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03

DR.. w. II. Stokes, Pres.
Mrs. Maggie T.. Walker, Vice-Pres.
j. Thomas Hewin, Chr. Exec. Com.
e. G. Burke, Treas.
B. A. Cephas, Secty.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
SAVE COUPONS

WORK AND sAVN UP PLANET
'OUPONS AND GUT AN UMBRELLA
OR A pHONAGRAPH--BOTH ARE
SDE ADVERTISEMENT
IN THIS ISSUE AND START TO
WORK IMMEDIATELY.
Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1918-08-03
B0DK ] Nc

Some people like to wait. Opportunity
passes and they wait for another oppor-
tunity hoping for something better. They
make small amount of money weekly
and then wait until they make a larger
amount of money, and then they wait for
still larger amount before they begin to
save forgetful OF the act that that saving
should begin at once. 1t is not how much
YOU save but the habit acquired by saving.
They others pass them in the race
of life and others, some of whom they had
regarded with contempt, and they still
wait. When death comes they are still
waiting. Charity alone saves their bodies
from Pottors' Field. Some other people
arc just tho other way. They think about
the future and prepare for it both in re-
ligious matters and in Industrial life They
get tho coal for the winter in the sum-
mer time and the clothing for the winter
during the same period
They seldom have cause to ask favors
of others and never are required to plead
for charity. TO which class do you be-
long? Start a saving account today. The
Mechanics Savings Bank is open and so
arc the other abnks. Begin the good work
today. You can save, too by purchasing
War Saving Stamps.
JOHN MITCHELL, JR.
President Mechanics Savings Bank
Bisbee daily review., 1918-04-02
State and County NelUs Briefs

prospect of oil development. and are taking an active interest in the matter and say number of other land buyers will follow them to Bowie valley on their report on reaching home.
 A runaway marriage was annrlled in Judge YOrk's court yesterday. The bride was Ruth Daniels Lange. daugh- ter of MT. and Mrs. H. B. Daniels, of COchise. Arizona. She was only 1e when she ran away with Wallace E Lange and was married to him in San ta Ana She gave her age at that time as IS. but admitted to Judge Wood tha. she is only r now. At the time her daughter elOped. Mrs. Daniels said she was living on Worcester avenue. Pasa- dena, and that she did not know of the marriage enntil the couple returned from Santa And. The married life lasted five days.
 NIT. Lange is with the army at Camp Kearny. and the court advanced the case from April % to yesterday be- cause of this fact. He was in court.