The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-11-17

made. Dressmakers from America
put their heads together and whis-
pered. The thing was done in the
twinkling of an eye: a new fashion
had been created!
One designers fortune for that sea-
son was made. The exhibitions of new
clothes were to be opened to Amert-
cans the next week, and that designer
would be deluged with orders. So run
the little comedies and tragedies of
dress.
And now, without the aid of Deau-
Vile or famous young and spoiled
beauty, the fashion comes into being
again. Gowns, even coats, are but
toned down the back in a straight line
from neck to hem. II is too early to
say whether or not the idea will revo-
lutionize all our clothes. There are
eras during which clothes are buttoned
at front or back. but few in which
both styles are tolerated However,
this is an unusual age and anything
can and does happen. So do as you
please.
It. is touch Of Orientalism and the
classic combined to permit a frock TO
present an unbroken front across tho
chest. This has always been consid-
cred the finer and more artistic line,
for the artists. even the earlier ones,
In dress considered It fitting that the
line OF the spine should be the artifl-
cIal line for fastening material.
The odd feature about this revival
Of an old, old style OF fastening is that
the exclusive tailors have applied 1t TO
coats. In that touch we get some
tittBE--nexel. Jackets OF peltry are
fashioned In this manner, and there
are comblnations OF velours and soft
fur that are put together like cuirass
blouse, in a very loose fashion, to go
with skirts of the cloth; but they rank
as coats and not blouses.
France Has Frocks OF Far.
In Paris they delight in medieval
gowns OF peltry. In such eostumery
there Is not only the determination to
be unique but to be warm. We who
had ceased 10 think that hunger and
| cold-both elemental evils-could raw
age our health, have been face to face
with both over three continents.
| Was II not natural, then. that
women should turn to the kind of APP
parel that kept their fala way ances-
tors comfortable? At least the French
! women must think along this line, for
| they have provided themselves with
| night gowns and street gowns made
| entirely of peltry. 1t is a soft kind Of
| fur which is used. and II Is superposed
on silk or satin. but it produces a
| strong kinship to the costumes OF the
year /.
When the gown OF fur Is not worn
there is new kind OF huge fur hat
which Is supposed to furnish the warm
touch. 1t has a cartNheel hrim and
is usually devoid OF trimming. Only
the oval slim face can permit IT, II
IL not the hat for the average woman;
But 1t Is new, and therefore desirable.
Latticework of Gold.
Along with other REVEALS. By tina
way, there comes into the. fashions a
plentiful use OF tho old quilting stitch
done in gold thread. 1t is nothing but
simple latticework and can he done by
an amateur, but 1t Is very effective.
II has usurped the place OF embrold-
cry OF more lavish and brilliant
type but gown loses nothing In tho
exchange.
Those who are the apostles of sim
plicity prefer II. Dark satin trocks
are enhanced by II, and also moro
practical gowns OF serge, velvetecn
and velours. The metal thread must
be furnished and duh; brilliancy Is 700
Slaring 1t az n fashion should sug-
gest itself Immediately to n woman
who Ia in need OF new idea for tho
front OF a blouse, the on6 OF a panel
or the hem of long skirt.