davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29
BY ALICE ZISKA SNYDER.
PARIS, Sept. Q.

IAls, Dept. u
TO be quite fair. the opening ex-
hibition Of each of the great
l. Paris couturiers should have a
special article devoted to its particular
novelties; at which rate, Christmas
would find one still describing winter
fashions. Therefore 1t seems wiser to
lump together all the striking sartorial
features, reserving the various It'd
bits for later consumption.
The Premet collection of gowns IS
wonderful example of what French
dressmakers can do. 1t is not re-
markably elaborate. On the contrary,
It is decidedly simple in every detail;
yet every woman that sees 1t wants
every dress in it.
Each frock has something 6stinc-
lively new ind individual about 1t, but
the two things that most stand out
are beads and fuzzy wool embroidery.
Although beaded and wool emhroid-
cries have been extensively employed
for two or three seasons past. Premet
uses them In an entirely different way.
Practically all of the afternoon and
dinner frocks are beaded They are
and tulles and mousselines; but the
beads are sewn on by hand and not In
the ordinary closely embroidered de-
sign. but scattered here and there, and
usually in one color instead OF the
mixture that beads usually suggest.
Another distinct novelty in the col
lection Is the pompom embroidery and
tiny silk tassels that suggest Nenette
and Rintintin. the tiny. wooden dolls
that are the Parisians' pet anti-Gotha
fetiches and Of which THE Sun has
already made mention. One OF these
dresses, called "Pompom." Is of bright
blue velours de laine, with the little
black Nenette pompoms in rows across
the front of the coat. Another OF
gray has this fuzzy pompom effect
carried out In a deep band around the
skirt, which 10 made of small pieces OF
what looks like frayed out braid, a
kind OF fringed braid. each piece over
tapping the other. something entirely
new in trimmings.
skirts short and Narrow.
There Is still another phase of the
pompom trimming in model called
"Florette-Patapon," where the fuzzy
pompom trimming In silk 10 sewed on
in rows one against the other to form
the deep band around a copper colored
crepe de chine dress with a copper
colored wool Jersey coat. with the same
pompOm bands around the hem and
collar and cuffs. Another Is made Of
the new material "djersacier." which
Is black silk Jersey with a silver thread
knitted through it, giving 1t. just q
little OF the beaded appearance.
The Premet skirts are exceedingly
short and narrow, and again a new
note has been struck in their cut by
sort OF draped panel at the sides,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29

leaving the front and back straight
and plain and giving the skirt the
appearance Of fitting in close TO the
ankles.
Premet has also launched a coat
dress that Is bound to be a success
because Of the absolutely new idea 1t
embodies. From the front you would
swear you were looking at a one piece
frock, but viewed from the back you
get the effect OF a complete tailored
suit because of the three-Quarter
Jacket which, though apparently a
separate garment, in reality ends
where 1t Is let in at the side seams of
the dress. This scheme Is also carried
out by setting two stitched ruffles on
a long WASTED back, which results in
jacket.
Premet inclines rather to draped
blouses than to the gilet tunics of
some Of the other houses. and in many
OF the satin afternoon and evening
frocks the selvage Of the goods is used
as a hem. All variations Of mauve
orchid unts appear in the more dressy
gowns, and for street dresses much
fuzzy wool embroidery that initiates
fur,
For tailored costumes grays are
popular. and instead OF narrow cloth
girdles, leather. particularly patent
leather. Is used for belts on the Jackets
fur that looks like raccoon rejoices
this season in tho name Of rat dAmeri-
que.
Drecoll has given his verdict on
what Is what In the winter fashions
and follows much the same lines as
those OF his colleagues Of the needle.
but his collection OF models is dis
tinctly Drecoll from beginning to end.
With him there seems to be no
scarcity OF fur, for dresses of fur are
shown and many OF the coats have
broad fur collars which serve as
capes also and are otherwise ex-
tensively trimmed with fur. Petit
girls and monkey are much used.
The coats are all loose and roomy
and have much OF the cape effect,
wrapping round the figure. Among
the more dressy coats very dark
green satin models are prominent.
The skirts are narrow and sensibly
short and not so much cut and
slashed az many Of the skirts that
have been shown this season. Fringe
trimming on dresses stands out con-
spicuously. though much embroidery
Is used. and of course the angora
wool embroidery Is to be noted. There
Is more OF the braided embroidery
than the ordinary kind.
There are some new touches to be
seen In many OF the sleeves. Those
that are not the little short cap sleeves
Of last season go 20 the other ex-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29

stunning jewe.led ornaments to fasten
these straight around pieces of fur
The buckles used as fasteners are
made OF silver or beaten gold thickly
encrusted with semi-preciouS jewels
which give a distinctly Oriental air
and. at that. add smartly to the cost
Again the shawl collar of fur Is
added to the tailored suits, serting as
the only trimming. I have mentioned
hefore the difficulty presented by the
hawl collar. az there seems always an
wkward gap between the sides to NJ
Inless the shawl collar is so wide
mat the two sides can be brought be-
om.ngly together. Always the best
arrangement and certainly the most
Iecoming Of furs is close up around
he throat.
The inside OF the fall coat suits
show now and then Innings of velvet.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29

preston, while all signs of unshaven-
ness can be eliminated by a few
strokes Of the retouchers brush. The
sensitive plate Of the photographer
does not miss n single wrinkle on
ones face. Some of these can be
painted out, but IL too much retouch-
ing is done the result is to take away
all expression from the face.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29
By MARTHA CooDE ANDERSON.

~ ECAUSE all women will be bus
r. Ter than ever this winter and
- there is the greatest need for
simple. dlgnined, well made clothes,
We have cause to congratulate the
makers of the new fall suits and also
ourselves who will wear them. In
deed, there is about them degree OF
smartness combined with simplicity
and elegance never before so apparent
in the first showing of fall suits.
We note an entire absence Of freak
draperies, curious flouncinps and
panel arrangements ON the best suits.
In their place come soft. beautiful
fabrics, warm and heavy, beautifully
tailored. and In many instances UNI
trimmed except for a small fur collar
straight around tho throat and rs high
rs possible arsund the cars.
Broadcloth, which has had q rest
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29

Two or three days growth Of beard
then just conceals the worst of these
wrinkles and reduces the retouchers
work to n minimum. BY this means
the normal expression Of the face is
retained. Very few men realize this
tact and nine out Of every ten caro-
'ully shave before going to the pho
Srapher.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29
DON'T SHAVE FOR THE CAMERA,

T T is said by experts that q man
who needs shave takes n better
picture than a man freshly
shaver. The short hairs soften the
Lines Of the face and altogether give
d less harsh and more even cast Of ex-
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
TRAA ITID3{T
WI lAl-ukAQ
SKINNED MILK FOR CALVES
Since Most Of Fat Has Been Removed
In Cream Carbohydrates Needed
to Make II Balanced.

SKINNED milk is a little richer In
protein than whole milk but lower In
carbohydrates. Since most Of the fat
has been removed in the cream the
skinned milk win need carbohydrates
to make it balanced ration for calves.
A good plan is to replace portion
Of the whole milk with skinned milk,
gradually increase the skinned milk
with some form of carbohydrates till
all of the whole milk Is replaced by
skinned milk, Fine ground meal is
one of the best carbohydrate supple
ments to be fed with skinned milk.
Some feeders cook the meal, stir II
in the skinned milk and feed it to the
calf. After the calf is two weeks old
1t will eat fine ground meal and If fed
small quantities win assimilate It.
Linseed meal Is also used.
Care should be taken in feeding
calves. They should be taught to
drink from the pail as soon as pos
slble. Nothing but clean vessels should
be used and the milk should be clean
and warm.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

w YHEN British guns came
NM pounding at the age-old
wv walls Of Bagdad, ancient
home Of Sinbad the Sailor
and Haroun-al-Rascbid, a new epoch
began in the history of this long dor
mant middle East. The romantic city
of golden minarets and dangerous
dreams awoke to new life-to play a
big, eventful part in the giant upheaval
that is changing the map of the world.
Gone forever, now, is that favorite
phrase, "The Changeless East," says
writer in the Los Angeles Times.
Today the British hold Mesopotamia,
the richest province in the Ottoman
empire. They have built their own rail-
road from the Persian gulf to Bagdad
through 600 miles Of changing land
scape--a landscape of dense date
groves, Of fertile fields, of wild marsh
es, and sandy desert. Bagdad, the
key to the middle East, is theirs.
The Bagdad route proper begins at
Scutari, a suburb Of Constantinople on
the Aslatic side of the Bosporous, runs
southeast of Aleppo, thence off east to
the Euphrates and Tigris country
with network Of branches-and thence
south along the winding Tigris to the
hot waters Of the Persian gulf.
For sheer human interest, no trip
in the world can compare with a jour
ney over the route Of the Bagdad rail-
way.
And, when the great war has ended,
and trippers are again making the tour
of the world, 1t is inevitable that
hordes will forsake the Suez route to
90 by rail via Nineveh, Bagdad, and
the old Garden Of Eden.
Region older Than History.
1t is a region that was old when his
tory began-the verltable cradle Of the
race-the home Of the Phoenicians, the
Chaldeans, the Assyrians and Baby
lonians. And remnants Of some OF
these old races are still found there
living now as they lived so many thou
sands of years ago. Among the desert
Bedouins the covenant Of bread and
salt is still kept, and the law of asylum
is strictly observed. If you are being
pursued by an enemy, you can run into
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
Abrahamvstarted on his voyage OF ex-
ploration to the Land of Canaan.

Abrahamvstarted on his voyage OF ex-
ploration to the Land of Canaan.
Scenes Along the Tisris.
AS your train winds along the SWIFT,
muddy Tigris, you will see Arabs trav-
cling by "kelek," which is q raft OF
poles supported by the inflated skins
of goats. These same old RATS, by the
way, are pictured on the inscribed
walls of Nlneveh. These same picture
walls show men crossing the river py
the aid of inflated goat skins, each man
supporting himself on skin and pad
ding with his hands as child paddles
in his swimming pool with water
wings" And to this day, at Mossul
(Which is opposite old Nineveh), the
Arab workmen cross the river Dy
means of these skins. From faraWay
Persian provinces, from Kurdestan ana
mountain countries long camel cara
vans come trekking in, bringing WOOL,
hides. carpets and skins of dates. And
when they go back, they carry cases Of
American kerosene, or bales of piece
goods" from Manchester, or cube sugar
from France.
Nearing Bagdad, the river towns
take on an air of greater hustle. The
people will no longer throw rocks, or
run shrieking at sight Of the train and
the "ferenghles" (foreigners). They
will come peddllng all manner of ed
ibles, from curdled camel-milk to Turk
lsh nougat and pistachio nuts. And In
the crowded, dusty bazaar streets
rooted over like tunnels to keep out
the heat-you will see offered for sale
hand sewing machines, "dollar watch
es," graphophones and tons Of gaudy
calicOes.
There is another class Of tourists,
also, who stream across Mesopotamia
by tens of thousands, every year. And,
to handle this traffic, the far-sighted
Germans planned branch railroad
from the Persian frontier down to Bag
dad. thence southwest through old
Babylon to the holy cities Of Kerbela
and Nedjef. The Shia pilgrims, this
strange tourist horde is called, and
from this pilgrim trade alone the Bag
dad railway will-when open to nor
NAL traffic-derive millions Of dollars a
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

an Arabs tent, and claim asylum. And
your enemy cannot follow you to this
haven; your host, too, is bound by the
law of the desert to protect you-to
fight for you if he husband, after
you have eaten meal with him, he Is
further bound to respect your person
and property for "a hours after your
departure. But by another law of the
desert, when you have gone "a hours
from your hosts tent, it is quite good
form for him to chase you, and to Kill
and rob you, if the whim SEXES him.
In these Mesopotamian towns, too
live thousands of Jews, dressed in
flowing white gowns and sandals, cali
ing each other "Yusuf" (Joseph) and
.Tbrahim" (Abraham), living now just
as they did in Christ's time, Staying
sheep to seal vow, or bind a contract,
The tourist of the future, going around
the world by way of the Bagdad rail-
way, can get a stopover at old Nine
web. the same Nineveh that was de-
stroyed and from whose startling
ruins Layard dug up the Creation
Tablets" odd cuneiform records telling
Of the making Of man. Of hts fall, and
of the overwhelming world flood. You
cross the great wheat plains of Cellcia,
where st. Paul was born. and pass
through Harm, the town from which
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
RETAIN BULL UNTIL TESTED
Not Good Policy to Sell to Butcher
After Two Years SerVice-May
Prove to Be Valuable.

After young or untried bull has
been used two years he should not be
sold to the butcher, because he may
prove to be bull Of exceptional worth
when his daughters freshen. Such a
bull often can be lent or leased to a
man with grade herd for couple OF
years until some of his heifers freshen.
In this way he always is subject to
recall In case he proves especially val
liable.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

flushed with solder. Seamless pals
and cans have been placed on the
market.
10y When washing tinware, first
rinse off the film of milk on the sur
face with cold water, then wash thor
oughly with warm water and cleaning
soda, using brush. and finally rinse
with scalding hot water and place In
the. sun or some place free from dust
to dry.
(3) After scalding, do not wipe milk
tinware with a cloth, but let the rims
ing water be so hot that there is no
further need Of driving.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

BIZ every county seat and county
To pay due homage to his name,
Ind give him a UeIcome at this door
OF Maryland he'd remember long
As life should last or dreams proloRg
Their memories in his noble soul.
Then once again the coach Wheels
roll.
He's coming-down the Generals
Wayi
The old State road is Gods today!
God's-and beneath his sparkling
Gods and the General Washington!
Ten miles beyond The cross roads hes
The capital; DER yonder rise
The Severn smiles meath azure skies,
Where Indian Landing sleeps beside
The murmuring music Of that tide,
Whose songs light as beauty
cheers
The SiIVering romance of the gears.
He'll pass here soon; and this Way
rings
The music of The mOrni Had kings
Such love from those they rule as
he
Ah weU, what kingdoms we should
Seei
But he has struck dorm kings; his
Sword
Had fought for freedom and the
Lord.
Andnow the cross roads teens NTH
life,
The hour has come, the keen Winds
knife
Is cutting under skin and bone,
But who cares for the cold-thGt
lone,
Craze figure shall rewGrm each
hearti
An echo; see how sharp ears start.
1t is the General-hoorayi
And down the Generals Highway
The yeon,en who haze seen him pass
Follow In cheering groapS-one
mass
OF burning and of patriot zeal
To be first followers at his heel.
1t is the General-hoor0y!
This roadside sings again today.
This nation sings, its heart stu
bowed
Before him in those dreams that
crowd.
The moving oangds of the gears.
/ There, like a peer among his peers
The viSion looms again, and he
Stands in that room zoe still mag see
One hand behind his back, and OAt
Laying that sword his bravery wor
Upon the table. A shaft of light
lAcross the senate chamber steals
"A preIate IN the foreground kneels
4 4 coasecrated hour, indeed,
That hour of high, GRATED need,
That noble and immortal act
Its spirit cleaning above its fact,
! Its soul Of beauty 50 made one
With the high soul Of Washington
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
CLEAN UTENSILS ARE URGED
Hlah Grade Of Milk Cannot Be OBJ
tanned If Pals and Cans Are Not
Thoroughly Washed.

(By Z. H. HARRINGTON, Wisconsin Ag-
ricultural College.)
All efforts to supply the consumers
with sweet, clean nsilk are useless If
the milk pals, the cans, and other
utensils are not thoroughly washed
and scalded before milk is poured into
them. Milk sours so quickly and it Is
so difficult to remove the sour odor
from the utensils that these should
be washed Immediately after they are
used.
az Milk pals and cans should be
smooth, with all cracks and seams
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
CHAPPED TEATs ARE vExlNG
Where Cows Wade Around in Muddy
Yards and Pastures, Teats OFTEN
Get Wet and Cold.

Sore teats Of any kind are very un'
pleasant, both to the COW and the
mixer. A COW having sore teats of
any kind does not stand still during
milking. She keeps moving about and
even kicking.
During spring chapped teats are
common. The cows wade around in
muddy yards and even in ponds in the
pasture, the teats get wet and cold,
and if no special attention is given to
the cows, the teats frequently become
very sore.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

year. These Shias are the "dlssenters
of the Mohammedan faith; the SUM
or orthodox Moslems do, but go instead
to Kerbela and Nedjef- eli e-saered
to- the memory of ALL nephew Of Ma
homet founder of the Shia sect. From
all over Persia, Kurdestan, parts of In
dia and even Tibet, these zealots come,
their long arduous journey by mule or
camel sometimes occupying a whole
year. They bring with them the dried
and sailed bodies Of their dead, for
burial outside the walls Of Nedjef
and, like the Mecca pilgrim, the Shia
who has been to Nedjef can paint his
beard bright red and enjoy the title
of "Haji" the rest Of his life. To Ned
JEFF every good Shia is supposed to go,
at least once in his career-if he can
afford it, end, in the shadow of Ned
jef's walls ne expects his home to re-
pose, If his children can raise the price.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22

And stretch each uortice Of the ear
To catch that first sharp clicking
sound
OF the stage coach laundering 0" its
wGy,
The hoot-beGt on the frozen ground
That knows the Kind Of tame to play.
Some in small groups together
dram
Wait on the green bench of lGWn,
And these-in somewise more Sc
date
The viSdOm of his act debate.
One rises wko defends the sire
of his great land, and UOUs NTH IRE
IT'S only a great mans acay, indeed,
To give up lofty place, secede
From honors Of such high degree,
Putting ambition aside, and fame,
Upon the altar Whence they came
HIS country's heart-0nd stepping
doWn
From all the lure of high renoWn,
Take his old place in life again,
One Nth all kindred gentlemen!
Some tell the story of has trip,
While Others bark tOith hanging
Up
That parting at old Frances inn
With those who'd been his aids al
wdr,
Tears IN his eyes, and In his heart
That aching that they feel Who part
With comrades and with friends
who'Ue spent
Hours With them in the battISment
IOf life, of fate, Of hopes and dreams
And brace Gdventurings long before
| Then to the barge they see him go
At Whitehall Ferry, boring lou
In all that stately form Of grace
At each bowed head and tear-stalaec
face.
And then that silent, street. Gdteu
At Pau1uS HOok-Sad VOrdS Gnt
fen,
A silent vaving of the hand
Back to his high and faithful band
Then Nth his face set hither-
strong
In the high purpose he had mad
To heed no imploring of the throns
But layiGt his cOuntry's feet hi
blade.
Then the triumphant jaant begun
Those days of jOarneying in the sun
The pIaudits of a nations best
Poured round him at each Stoppin.
place,
And on the roads from mile to NIL
Arrays some patriot IN whOs
breast
Ismolate Ioue had left its trace,
Coming to bow by the road he'd tax
And kiss the cold ground for h
dear sake.
Philadelphian's loud acclaim.
Then BaItimors-her royal boNnt
| Poured as 'twas nsuer poured befor
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
HIGH-PRICED FEED ANNOYING
Dairyman Depending on Profit From
Cows for Living Must Know Just
What He Is Doing.

Now that the cost Of COW feed IS
soaring skyhlgh and the dairyman is
depending on the profit from his cows
for his living it is self-evident fact
that he must know what he is think
ing about. One thing is certain, the
poor feeder to the poor COW Is not In
the race and the sooner he gets out
the better, even if he must hire out to
work for the man who knows now 10
do his own thinking.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22


tablet at Severn Cross Roads, where
washington passed On his way to resign
his commission at Annapolis.l
~ HIS roadside sings again to-
day
Here where the barren
branches stUGy
And keen December windS sweep By
Beneath a cold and azure sky
The old road echoes to some tread
of morning in a vaniShed hour
When here the red-cheeked courier
sped,
And here the young lands pride and
fower
Of glory and achievement came
To add fresh glory to his name.
The Ui7IGges had all come out,
To hear the neWs, to match about
TO catch some glimpse far up the
WGy
of Washington-who from the fray,
And from the council and the crest,
Was riding down his Sword to lay
Once more upon his countrys
breast
While he stepped back to that street.
rest
he yearned for. YOnder sounds a
CALL
A 5ugle's note, mayhap the fall
Of horse-hoofs on the old State
road
From every hamlet and abode
Men. women, children, hurry forth
The wind is street., though west By
north,
And keen Nth that sharp chill that
comes
When on the M@ We PGTtTs0yt
drums.
This way they look, this ray ana
that
ThegH know him By has coat ana
hat,
Thence seen his face i" pictures, s.
There mont be any doubt they'll
knoW;
But deep pithiD their hearts thsl
sigh
Theg'U know him By has fOrtar'gh
eye,
His noble mien, his lofty frame,
His fitting in Nth road and sky
AS nature fits all great forms n,
Ind signs the portrait '0'th ne
name.
The young folk chatter, smile an
grin,
The old are prone to be severe.
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
Misunderstood.

did you hear Of poor Fatheads
misfortune?"
"No; what is it,"
''He observed to Miss Oldgiri when
he saw how she won at bridge that
he would like to have her hand, and
now she's suing him FOR breach Of
promise"
Carroll County democrat. (Huntingdon, Tenn.) 188?-1971, 1918-02-22
HIS. LABORs ENDED
Peoples Acclaim Of Washington
as Their Hero JOuFneyed
to Annapolis to Lay
Down His Sword.

tPoem written for the unwilling Of the
tablet at Severn Cross Roads, where
washington passed On his way to resign
his commission at Annapolisl