davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
GREAT VARIETY OF COL0RS
Generous Range is Provided In Spite
Of the Oyers' Difficulties Earlier
In the War.

Tn spite Of the dyers' difficulties,
which were many during the earlier
period Of the war, this season Is pro-
vidIng very generous and very
beautiful variety of color. But in II
general way, It may be said that gray
and beige and tones of the sort pre-
vail, although they frequently are
frightened with bits of colOred EN-
brOldcry or with garnitures Of one sort
or another to lift them out of same
ness.
Every possible kind Of simple en-
brOldery seems to be employed this
season but II IL employed with reserve.
OvcrenbOratlOn Is taboOed. simple
little motifs worked In worstcd are
greatly liked ON wool gowns and even
on silk gowns Of Il simple character.
Often this work Is done I'm what Is
known rs lazy daisy stitch, or In single
stitch, and often borders are worked
In just the running stitch that every
women can use with success, for II
requires nothing more than care To In
sure success. Color, however, must al
ways be well chosen, for upon color
will depend the distinction and the
character of the costume.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
APPLIQUE is MUCH IN FAVOR
Bids Fair to Supplant, for a Time at
Least, All Other Forms Of
iandiwork.

Applique of all sorts bids fair to
supplant. for time ut least, all other
forms of handiwork. From the simple
"cut-outs" to the most intricate OF
oriental trncerics. there Is an applique
to answer every trimming need. But
there are divers ways of putting on
the applique. and different fabrics de-
simpler cut.outs of felt linen or vel
vet, one may use either fabric paste
or various edge stitchngs to secure
the applique. Feathcrstitchng, brior-
stitching or dainty buttonholing may
also he used. And the stitching Is Of
ten very effective in contrasting color.
Perhaps you have some bits of orien-
tai embroidery that you might care to
use on u new frock. or hat, or bag. says
an exchange. Why not cut out the
motifs with pair of very sharp scis-
sors, as one very clever girl did. and
transfer them to the new surfacef
Most oriental embroidcrics are done on
some soft silk which makes the cutting
very much easier to accomplish. I'm
usually intricate work Is best applied
to the new surface as follows. Using
Il fine needle, either stitcL directly
through the embroidered motif, Of
course, with self-color silk. taking tiny
stitches on the right side and generous
ones on the wrong, or better yet,
stitch through only the undcrside EN-
brOidcry, being careful to back.stitch
so as to insure firmncss.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
Vest IS feature
Made Part of an Attractive Little
Suit Dress.
Bustle Silhouette, Being the Newes,
style Note Of the Season, Can
not Be Ignored.

The clever little suit dress shown in
the sketch may be attractively devel-
Oped in navy blue serge or gaberdine
with vest of white satin. As the small
sketch will Indicate, this is another of
the hustle frocks, but inasmuch as the
hustle silhouette, whether applied to
dresses or suits, is the newest style
note of the season, 1t is difficult to
ignore 1t.
Advance style notes concerning the
hustle frocks and suits were rather
forbidding, for one Immediately visu-
allied of century ago, rc-cnforccd
with stiff Innings and even supported
and kept in place by means of wire
rolls and other equally unattractivo
mechanical devices.
The hustle of 1017-1S. however. Is
very smart and really such a modest
and unobtrusive affair that "closo
up" view is sometimes required in or
der TO be sure that certain chic frOck
Is really of the hustle class. says n
fashion writer in the Washington Star.
The hustle Is usually an arrange
ment of the drapcry. Occasionally q
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

In instructing schOolchildren i'm knit
ting, they must begin with the simplest
things first and advanced TO those that
are more difficult, as in anything else.
Some of the schools started out with
the six-inch squares made of colorcd
yarns on No. needles, and after that
they undertake muillcrs, then wristlcts.
The squares are used by the Red Cross
by joining them to make small quilts
or coverlets.
Yarn and knitting needles can be
purchased either from stores or Red
Cross chapters. The standardized
Red Cross needles are I'm three sizes,
and their numbers and sizes are as fol-
lows.
Knitting needles, No. 1-135-1 900
inch In diameter.
Knitting needles, No. 2-175.1 600
inch in diameter.
Knitting needles, No. 3-20O-1 900
inch in diameter.
The children use No. 3 needles. They
are first taught to east on" and to
avoid making their first stitches too
tight. Beginning on the small squares
the children practice until they can
make the stitches even and firm. They
must be taught to pick up dropped
stitch and sometimes ravel out and re-
knit u square several times. Both
boys and girls like the work.
They are taught to splice the yarn
when 1t must be joined or to leave ends
two or three inches long to be darned
In. All knots and ridges are to be
avoided. When they have learned to
knit the squares they can take up the
mulllers. For these they must use the
regulation gray or khaki colored yarn
that Is sold for army garments, and
one pair of No. 3 needles. For a muf-
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
Navy Serge Suit Dress.

big sash Is tied at the back of frock,
with fnring ends and short loops, so
that the desired flare Is effected.
The dress shown In the sketch has
plain front section, and back and sides
drawn up to form the hustle. Above
this IN the back rises the neatly fitted
bodice, with front closing surpllce
fashion over vest of white satin,
which buttons high ut the neck and Is
finished with iarlng points on either
side. Buttons trim the sleeves.
The white vest must be easily de.
tachnble, so that II may always be
kept fresh. OF course, the color scheme
of the frock may be varied. One of
the pretty tan or gray wool fabrics
may he selected, with vest In bright
contrasting color. For service and
smartness, however, nothing better
than the combination of blue and white
can be found.
TO make the frOck six yards of
serge or other material, 30 inches wide,
and three-quarters of II yard Of satin
the same width will be required.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
BLOUSE SLIP0vER IS USEFUL
Dressy Touch to Simple Waist
and Skirt Costume.

Wonderfully pretty are the new chlf
fon blouse sl!pOvers, which immediate.
ly add n dressy touch to II simple waist
and skirt costume. The chiffon slip
over Is wisp of thing in the hand |;
dOnned over II blouse of white silk or
net-Or one of darker silk or net, If
its wearer prefers-it resolves itself
into gray bit of feminine finery in
deed.
The neck Is cut out I'm n shallow
square, edged with hemstitched plain
chiffon, and there are very wide arm
holes also finished with plain chiffon
hens. The front extends itself into
long, broad sash ends, which are tied
at the back of the waist in big "bus'
tie" bow.
One of these pretty slip0yers, say In
lowered white and rose chiffon, will
dress up amazingly an ordinary white
geOrgette shirtwaist, worn with sep.
arate skirt of dark mOhair. serge or
satin.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
G.N:v 2zzza,Az
Sewing Hint.

AS washgoods shrink mostly In
length, when making dress or aprons
allow for n very wide hem ut the bot
tom and blind haste the hem until
ready for the first wash. Then pull out
the basting and, after ironing. meas.
ure the proper length and stitch the
hem. BY blind stitch Is meant to haste
on wrong side u triilc closer than Or
binary basting, leaving the stitches on
right side barely noticeable. In max
ing clothes Of worsted that are likely
to need altering in length make deep
hem ut bottom and run tuck by
hand In the hem on wrong side. II
will never be noticed, and when 1t
needs altering It Is easy to take out
the tuck and press the hem.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Above Il dress-up frOck for the small
lady of three or four years Is pictured.
1t Is made of fine batlste and narrow
val lace. This Is frOck for state &C.
casiOns, like birthday party, In the
life of the little miss. 1t Is, therefore,
INDUCED In more lace and embroidery
than any other of her belongings.
II Is cut with long body and n
short, full skirt, scalloped at the bot
tom. There Is straight piece of fine
swiss embroidery down the front set In
with lace insertion at each side. Little
jacket fronts are set on at each side
with val edging set in a scant ruff
fle on the edges.
Rosettes of pink satin ribbon Mt each
side of the front emphasize the begin
ming and the end of a skirt sash that
marks the joining of the waist and
skirt. A wide soft ribbon makes this
sash very splendid affair that
matches up well with the hat of pink
ribbon and white lace. There is u
miniature rose on its brim. No won.
der the little one Is calmly conscious of
being well dressed!
I@<' &77@1
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

iler 2ia hanks of yarn "a pound) are
needed. Cast on 80 stitches Cor few
more or less If necessary to make Il
width of II inches. Knit in the same
way as for the squares, with the plain
or garter stitch until the muller Is 6S
inches long.
Wristlcts may be knitted on No. .
needles. using one pair. They require
u hank of yarn "a pound). Cast on
rs stitches. knit and purl 2 for L.
inches, and sew up, leaving 2 inches
open space for the thumb, inches be-
low the edge. The next garment to be
taken up in the course of training is
considerably more difficult than the
muller, but only requires two needles.
Direction for it will be given In an.
other article.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
Central America's Population.

Only small part of Central Amer.
lea is populated. Each Of the six Cen
trail American countries could support
millions more of people. Costa Rica,
one Of the smallest Of the republics,
Is about twice the size of Switzerland,
but 1t has less than half million peo-
DIE.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Just as in summer, winter styles in
hats are the fashion, SO summer styles
are evident In the winter hats. The
popular trend for unseasonaI fashions
is shown In this natty sailor hat. Sail.
ors have always been considered sum.
mer hats, but this one with an abbre.
Waited brlm is brought forth for win.
ter wear. It Is trimmed in gold and
black, with just the merest suggestion
Of mole.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
Value Of Good Eyes,

"A good pair Of eyes are worth to q
girl more than head full of Latin."-
From "rhe Idght Above the Cross
Roads," by Mrs. Victor Richard
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
SOCIETY NEWS

A card party will be held for the
benefit of the Evanston Catholic wom-
ans war relief committee on Friday
afternoon at o'clock at the residence
of Mrs. Harry B. Hurd of 932 Edge.
mere place, Evanston. Among the
patronesses are Mrs. Edward Hines.
Mrs. X. r. Stone, Mrs. l.. A. Ferguson
Ward Mrs II. II. McColl. Mrs. w. H.
Hill, Mrs. Il. l.. Marley, Mrs. T.. f.
Ward. Mrs. n. +. Kranz. Mrs. John r.
Mauff, Mrs. r. V. Purcell. Mrs George
II. Kearney, Mrs. Paul L. Faust. Mrs
George r. Kelly, Mrs. G.. +. Yegge. Mrs.
Thomas d. Hogan, Mrs. John N. Wei.
ter, Mrs. w. C. Hartray, and Miss Mar.
garet Hayes.
Mr. and Mrs. William II. Morris of
gerry stone of 54OO East View park,
have left for California.
~c~
Miss Florence S. Bradley of 1923
Hyde Park boulevard left this week
for Florida, where she will spend the
remainder of the winter with rela.
tives.
~SN
Mrs. J. T.. CHM, principal of the
Hawthorne school of st. Paul. Mimi.
has left for St. Paul. after having
spent the holidays with Mrs. +. A.
Radcliffe of 1916 Kenmore avenue.
A0
Mr.. and Mrs. Ambrose Cramer and
their son, Corwith of Lake Forest are
at Pineburst, n. G. Mr.. and Mrs.
Stuyvesant Peabody of Hinsdale are
also at Pinehurst.
~G>
Mrs. j. Ogden Armour was hostess
to the Thursday morning class which
was held at her residence on Thurs.
day morning at IL o'clock. Il. p.
O'Connor was the speaker
~SS~
Maj. Charles Gushing and Mrs. Cush.
ing are passing few days in town
with the latter's parents, Mr.. and Mrs
Albert Goodrich. en- route to Fort Sill.
Okla.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
BUSINESS TOPICS
Care of the Feet.
The leGrand Foot Parlor,

Madame Florencia A. 4. Powella-
Gricr, who owns The lie Grand Foot
Parlor at 1874 North Clark street, has
for her patrons the best people on the
North Side. She is the original Dis
coverer of Comparative Scientific
Bloodless Chiropody. The lie Grand
Foot Parlor has been at 1914 and 13iS
~ Clark st, for the past ten years and
twenty.eight years on the North Side.
Madame Powella.Grier, NJ. c., S, c.,
Doctor of Chiropody, successfully
makes sore feet good Sore feet are
made Good Feet at the lie Grand Foot
Parlor, 1914 n. Clark street. Tele-
phones Superior 1901, Automatic 49,
$50.
Dr. Abraham Sogolow, a licensed
chiropodist and q member of the
State and National Chiropody Associa.
tons, Is now employed as assistant in
the lie Grand Foot Parlor, 1914 \.
Clark street. Electrical and COM
pressed air treatments are given in
connection with the comparative sci
entifc method of removing callous
skin from the feet.
~
Out OF Focus.
II you have head aches your eyes
are possibly out of focus.
II your eyes smart and burn or the
movies blurr, your eyes are out of
focus.
II the letters run while you are
reading or If you don't see all Things
clearly your eyes are out of FOCUS.
II your child is pale and nervous
the chances are its eyes are out of
focus.
Buck & Rayners main store at
State and Madison has an expert who
will gladly examine your eyes with.
out cost or obligation and frankly
tell you IL you need to wear glasses
or not. Those of our readers who are
now wearing glasses are invited to
have their eyes examined free and
they will be told IL any improvement
can be made. This service is entirely
free.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
EAGLETS.

The Michelob Clup which meets
at Ohio and Clark streets In Sauer'
mans splendid rooms Is growing In
and power every day.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Mrs. J. Ogden Armour was hostess
to the Thursday morning class which
was held at her residence on Thurs.
day morning at IL o'clock. T.. p.
O'Connor was the speaker.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
~

Charles c. Breyer Is one Of the best
liked men on the Northwest Side. He
10 noted for his public spirit and de-.
votion to the interests Of his fellow
citizens.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Peter Schoenhofen Theurer. the pop
ular president Of the Peter Schoen.
hofen brewing Company. Is a progress.
sive and public spirited leader In Chi.
cago affairs.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

John d. Gailivan, the veteran letter
carrier. IL one Of the most popular
men In the service Of Uncle Sam.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Mr. and Mrs. Ambrose Cramer and
their son, Corwith of Lake Forest are
at Pinehurst, n. G. Mr.. and Mrs
Stuyvesant Peabody of Hinsdale are
also at Pinehurst.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19
~

James NJ. Daley, the popular trus.
tee OF the Sanitary District Of Chi.
cago, is a man Of great executive
ability and force OF character.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Maj. Charles Cushing and Mrs. Cush.
ing are passing few days in town
with the latter's parents, Mr.. and Mrs.
Albert Goodrich. en- route to Fort Sill.
Okla
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Alderman William J. Healy Of the
Ward has made splen.
did record in the city council
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-01-19

Mrs. j. +. CHM, principal of the
Hawthorne school of st. Paul Mimi
has left for st. Paul. after having
spent the holidays with Mrs. r. A
Radcliffe of 1876 Kenmore avenue.
The daily Nome industrial worker., 1918-04-12

Douglas Senior and Junior High School students through the use of the photograph records and special lectures by teachers and pupils.
 The Petersburg schools have given an entertainment for the purpose of raising money with which to en- roll all the pupils as members of the Junior Red Cross. Sufficient money WIS raised to provide for the enrolment of all pupils and in ad- dition $80.0O was contributed to the local Red Cross Chapter.
 During the month of December, the girls of the Junior Red Cross in the Junior and Senior High School Sewing classes of the Juneau schools under the direction of Miss Margaret Scott made the following articles of wearing apparel for the child refugees in France and Bel gium: dresses; 8 outing flannel kimonas; 25 crocheted and knitted caps; knitted scarfs; baby hoods; baby blankets; pairs of crocheted baby bootees. In addition to the foregoing, the girls generally over hauled, sewed buttons upon, washed, ironed, mended, and crocheted edges upon a large number of children's second hand garments which were donated for the use of the Junior Red Cross.
 Evening classes for adults are be- ing maintained in the following local ities: Anchorage, Douglas, Juneau, Ketchikan, Nenana, and Nome.
The daily Nome industrial worker., 1918-04-12
COAL IS 50, 900 ,OOO TONS
 SHORT IS CLAIMED

tent of idleness the miners have suffered throughout the country due to car shortages, and places the blame for the present-day coal fam inc squarely upon the railroads" |" Lewis declares.
 ! By figuring the basic averages for all union coal fields for reported loss of production due to car short age, it is estimated that the per cap- ita producing power of the 410,000 union miners was reduced approx imately S2.7 tons per man employed aggregating a total loss of 36,760,- 715 tons.
 Only 25 per cent of the member ship reported, of which fully per cent could not secure accurate in formation to make answer to the questionnaire.
 : If all tke local unions reporting whose membership had suffered idle ness due to car shortage and main 'tained records. Lewis believes that the total loss for the union field ; alone would have exceeded 50,000, : 900 tons.
The daily Nome industrial worker., 1918-04-12

50 min. K. 630.6O. it. to Cor. No. 5; thence 8. 25 deg. 57 min. E. 1377.o0 it. thence s. TS feg. 14 min. w. 577.9O it. to beginning, containing an area of 16.569 acres. The varia- ton herein is from 19 deg. Is min. to 19 deg. 30 min. D. -.'. Said claim is situated on unsur- veyed ground on right limit of Dry creek in Cape Nome Recording Dis trict, Alaska.
 Mineral Monument No. Il to which this claim is tied is fir post 6 ins. sq. it. Gbove ground with stone mound around same it. base 8 it. high scribed U. S. L. M. No. II, about 2.5 miles N. N. E. of Nome, Alaska. and in Latitude GA deg. 32 min. N, Longitude 165 deg. 22 min. w.
 The Notice O. Location is recorded in Vol. S6 Page 37, records of the Cape Nome Recording Precinct. Alaska.
 The adjouring claims on the East is No. 9 above Dry creek, Sur. No. AGA; on the West the Beatrice claim Sur. No. BPS and also unsurveyed property and on North and South is unsurveyed ground.
 There are no conflicting claims.
 THOS. McGANN,
 Register. Date of first pub. March 6, 1918. Date of last pub. May 6, 1918.
The daily Nome industrial worker., 1918-04-12

INDIANAPOLIS, (By mail. )- That in excess of 50,000.000 addi- tiona1 tons of coal could have been produced during 1917 by union min CTS in the United States is the state ment made by John l.. Lewis, Vice Pdresident of the United Mine Workers of America.
 Lewis was formerly a statistician time of his elevation in October to the vice-presidency as result of a vacancy created by the resignation of John P. White to become associ- ated with the federal fuel admins tration, had in progress nationwide investigation into car shortages af- fectng union territories.
 The questionnaire sent out by Lewis sought information of all idle days due to car shortages from the 2,700 local unions comprising the international body, from December l, 1916, to November 1, 1917.
 The life of the coal industry, hay ing been a lean one prior to the winter of 1916, the miners local unions have not universally adopted as yet recordkeeping system that affords accurate information. But by comparing their local records with those of the coal company offices at the mines more than $50 locals responded.
 In Ohio, out of a membership of 40,553, embraced in 45o local unions 53 locals reported, with 6,593 mem bers, loss of time due to car short ages the equivalent of 1,521,588 tons.
 In Illinois, out of a membership ofS7,189, embraced in BOT local unions, 3S locals, with 12,137 mem bors. reported loss of time due to car shortages the equivalent of D. SHAFTS tons.
 In Pennsylvania (bituminous), out Of membership Of 7S,9S2, em- braced in 428 local unions, A locals, with a membership of S,762, report ed loss of time due to car shortages. the equivalent Of 1.22s.60S tons.
 Tn Indiana, out of a membership of 24,649, embraced in POP local unions, 29 locals, with membership of 4,627, repol ;cd loss of time due to car shortage the equivalent of 1,123,315 tons.
 "The above results in the central competitive field illustrates the ex-
The daily Nome industrial worker., 1918-04-12
NOTICE OF FORFEITURE.

To Gus. LynoNl, your heirs, exc
 cutors, assigns, or personal re- presentatives:
 You are hereby notfned that we have expended in labor and i'm prevements the sum of one hundred dollars for the the year 1916 upon each of the following described placer mining claims. all situated in the Koyuk Recording Precinct. Territory of Alaska, to wit: The Treena Bench fifth tier left limit of Dime creek. the Louise Bench, fifth tier Left limit, The Last Chance. fosrth tier left limit, and tho Gold Hill Bench, fifth tier right limit all CT Dime creek, xaad claims being more fully described in the records of said Koyuk Recording PreSints, Territory of Alaska.
 The above amount has been sx- pended anaer the provisions of the law concerning annual labor spOn mining claims, being the amount required to hold said claiA.
 And you are further nsHfea that if you fail to contribute your pre- portion of said expenditure within ninety days after the last pubiica- ton of this nStice, your interest in said claim will become the property of the undersigned, your co-owner, under section 2324 Revised Statutes of the United States.
 HENRY SETHMAN.
 CHAS. GOETZENBERGER, M Co-owner. Bate of first pNbl. JaR. 22, 1918. Bate of last pNbl., April 23. 1Os.