Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-05-05

Ing goodbye to congregation who
adored him, because his king had
called him home to do his bit in the
| pulpit.
All OF which, you may say. has
nothing TO do with spring fashions
! But no one can fan to feel the sig
nificance Of the vast Easter parade
| in the largest city In America, which.
while 1t Is supposed to put the stamp
on spring fashions turned into a pa
rade of men, whose clothes were the
dominant feature OF the scene. Is
this an omen of tho future?
Established NeCklinc.
In the settlement OF fashions
which comes this month there is one
predominant feature that interests
the majority as well as the minority.
II is the new arrangement OF the
neckline.
This style has been creeping on US
unawares since January. but it
seems to have sprung out of ann :
bush and attacked the people, az the
warm weather burst over the land.
Those who were not observing
fashion closely west about with their
shirtwaist collars pulled out over the
coat collars, or the wide collars Of
guimpes pulled out over the bare
edge OF one-piece frock.
Then, suddenly the whole process
seemed to be wrong. The careless
pubic observed that the fastidious
crowd had abandoned white coat col
lars They also noticed that the
neckline OF a one-piece frock wag
not outlined by collar except at the
PACK. They noticed that sailor col
lars had disappeared from fashion
able garments. They realized that
| the neckline, instead of being "
shaped, was square and deeply de.
coilete, or delta shaped-the decol-
Ietage that we associate with Dres-
den shepherdesSes, Dolly Warden
styles, Mozartian opera and Janice
meredith This kind of neckllne
was accepted only for frocks: il
should go without saying that it was
not contemplated for coats.
But whatever the garment. its
neckline was no more hidden and
enveloped by white collar. 1t is
quite probable that this somersault
In fashions disturbed the minds of
moro women than even the incoming
of the tight skirt. for it necessitated
thought and an entire change In the
arrangement of the garments which
have been carelessly worn in the
same com bination for several seas
ons. II made one go into numerous
shops and regard ones self for num-
! erous moments before mirrors In or
der to secure a satisfa ctory adjust
ment OF the new fashion to ones
neck and face.
High Collar on Coat Suits.
And another movement In the ar
rangement OF the neck is disqulet-
ing. IL Is the Introduction OF the
high collar at an hour when the
high fashion designers decided to
discard IT, and the public wss in
formed that 1t was no longer in first
fashion No sooner had this ediot
gone out and been accepted than a
vast number Of dressed
women, toC-appeared with high
loose collars, that either enveloped
the chin or rolled in loose fold be-
meath IT,
There are two or three practi-
cal things that every woman must
somehow manage to master in this
new fashi9n II she intends to loos
her best during the warm-weather
season.
one Of them is that coat suit re-
-quires some kind of collar at the
back and sides Of the neckline. to |
prevent the rough material from |
resting against the skin.
Some women have found out that |
the simpleSt way TO achieve a be- |
HnV,aipd hEt, t1la hnrA t. 81
remove the revers from tho coat
and either bind or fancy stitch the +,
edges, and then put pique or linen |
collar around the back to end at
the collar bone in front
Others have adopted q new kind |
of fine pique collar. which is cut on |
the exact line OF the long revers
that are on the majority Of jackets
and this Is basted carefully on the /
inside of the coat and pressed fatty
over the odse.
Another feature Of the new neck
arrangement which It is well 70 alb
sorb into the mind is that the blouse
with the Italian decolletage is the
best to wear under all coats II is
wiser TO avoid uperimposing one
collar on another. This Italian
neckline may be round or straight
across the shoulders, or brought to
the base of the neck. The wearer
must decide on that. Her features
should determine the exact curve or
lack of curse which is employed.
Low Neck for Day Use.
Another interesting detail Of fash
on is the definite tendency toward
4 deep decoilete for day usage. The
nncklinR may he on the Italian
model or 1t may be on the Ameri-
can Colonial model. which brings
he material high and tight against
he back and side of the neck and
hen dips 1t down to a deep square
)r delta IN front.
The Introduction OF tho high coll
lar seems to have come about
through necessity rather than
.hoice or inclination. True, there
ire smart women who insist that
hese Outstanding, flower-like col
ars that rise on the step Of tho neck
nd open out wide to envelop the
hin and the hack of tho head, but
he majority OF women have adopt
d high collars only with coat suits
hey don't know any other Kinds of
ollar to adjust with n Jacket that Is
Iirh in the neck and has rolling
evers.
They flnd that the wash blouse,
which has n hig turnover collar
nd Is worn with eravat OF black
It coiored picot ribbon, gives the
ight silhouette to the neokllne OF
IN everyday coat suit, II this
Ugh collar cannot be adopted, then