The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-14
SPRING FASHION
 NOTES

The Palm Beach fashion, arranged in America for Americans. under French inspiration. of wearing q quantity of ogandy gowns will dorni- nate the summer fashions. The dress makers are turning out many gowns in this one material They are made as shirtwaist frocks for tho morn ing and as elaborate creations of silk or satin and lace for the afternoon. Pale yellow and flesh pink are the two colors chosen, Sashcs in a diff ferent color are placed Imply at the hips or flicker in a narrow line at the normal waist.
 The designers have used much in- gcnuity in the new trimmings. They have gone back to the days of TO- 'S0. and go for inspiration in trimming gown with it's own material. Serge suits made of that new fine serge that has caught the popular fancy of all American women who have seen it. arc trimmed with bias folds of the ma- terial. These folds trim the sleeves the neck and outline patch pockets on the hips. They are not stitched; they are turned under, slip-stitched and lightly pressed down. Cable cords, as we used to call them, have also been revived. They are made into loops. fleurs-de-lis and Chinese designs and placed wherever the gown needs ac- centing.
 Quilting is in fashion. It is used on silk and satin. One new gown has knife pleated Georgette skirt done by machine, with a Directoira coat-bodice and long panel back of terra cotta quilted satin. The sleeves are long and flare over the hands and the immense. turn-ov collar is creas- ed on line with the shoulders They arc both copied from the Directoire fashions. This frock is worn with a black hat trimmed with corn flowers.
 There is a strong struggle going on this early in the season between the straight and the draped skirt. Both are leading fashions and neither one Is new, but the ultra-smart woman insists that the draped skirt is better than the straight one, and she is up- held by many of the dressmakers. On the other hand there are hundreds of women who say that the draped skirt has been so featured in cheap ma- terials in 1ow-priced gowns that it ls exceedingly commonplace. The strGg- glc makes skirts interesting and incl dentally adds to the confusion of the season, which has turned out to be an arena, into which hundreds of fashions have been indiscriminately thrown.
 Black satin, on which large gold cak leaves are appliqued. is a bit of sewing room ornamentation that is seen on some of the best gowns.
 Capes have pushed top coats over
 
 straight, aviator's cape. or like that of tie Italian police, or they are three tiered and elaborately ornamented with fur. The lining is often gorgeous anG rarely demure. Magneta and blue. pelge and gold. biscuit and black, navy blue and artillery red, midnight blue and Chinese crepe in figured colors are among the frequent combinations
 The use of jet is so widespread that IL at mas spilled over serge and gabardine ahis combination was introduced last november almost simultaneously in New York and Paris, but it was not until this month that the fashion re- oclved a strong impetus toward popu larlty. Black and dark blue serge gowns are covered with leaves and er,, Droidered designs in glistening jet.
 Douillet sends over a remarkable gown called Surprise" It has a slim Iut graceful bodice of blue crepe de chine extending in long panel down nack and sides. The front of the skirt IS of dull gold tissue covered win coarse dark blue net. on which are shghtiy raised figures. The gownsis well named. The bodice is SO simnle nade in dark blue. with long sleeves 10 the knuckles and a high collar thai loiis aDout the chin. that no one ex- psc's the blazing brilliancy of the gold