The Ordway new era., 1918-07-26

J. ~ ALONIKI is one of those extraor-
binary spots where East meets
~ West. where mans latest inven-
tions are seen side by side with
the simple implements of centuries
ago. land of many people and quaint
customs. War has brought Saloniki
into the limelight. and In years to come
many of those who soldlered there will
feel that they have added a strange
experience to their lives. 1t has al
ways been the fashion to criticize mil
itary administration; still. however
slow war office machinery may be, it
usually gets you somewhere in the end.
1t may not, of course, be the place you
particularly wanted but you get there
Just the same and make the best of 1t.
writes British officer in the Christian
Science Monitor. / never thought of
going to Saloniki, but one fine morning
orders came for my dispatch. and in
due course to the Orient l came.
OF the country 1 was bound for
knew little or nothing. 1t was q part
Of the Levant. most of the European
powers had a post office there. and l
had heard something of the willy Le-
vantine and his ways, that was all. 1
was quickly to absorb a good deal
more Information. for the moment you
land in Saloniki 1t thrusts itself upon
you with a joyous shout and many
smells.
Pearl Of the Orient.
It was midday when we entered the
harbor. perhaps one of the finest in
the world, and. taking Into account its
natural possibilities, little wonder that
Saloniki is the Pearl of the Orient. The
tlrst impression is good. nothing could
be finer or more picturesque than the
general appearance of the town.
Countless minarets rise above the
houses. and an occasional group of
sall. stately poplars give the neces-
sary tone of green to relieve the white
mass of buildings. The town slopes
up from the sea front. the old citadel
IN the Turkish quarter behind making
4 good background and helping to re-
mind one that this. until recently. was
q part of the Ottoman empire. Be-
hind the town again stretch the SEEM
lngly endless ranges of hills. tier on
her, devoid of trees and with signs of
habitation few and far between.
The harbor itself Is fine picture
and affords an excellent setting to the
whole panoramic effect. Few types Of
craft are not represented there, from
the modern battleship flying the tri-
color of France, to the quaint. gaudily
painted vessel, rigged with a single tri-
angular shaped sail. high out Of the
water at the prov and stern, relic Of
the days when the hardy PhOenician
mariner made Saloniki his port of call.
There are British. American. Italian
and Russian traders lying side by side,
and little way out white hospital
ship, which. in more peaceful times,
dew the house flag of the Union Castle
line. Picture all this under a tur-
quoise sky. and the result is not un-
pleasing.
The military landing officer Is soon
On board and after a few words with
the o. G. troops. we commence the dis
embarkation ceremony. Yes. the best
Impression of Salonik is to be had
from the deck of transport-and for
choice the boat should be outward
bound.
Groups Talk on Street.
As we land we get closer and bet
ter view Of the nearest buildings and
the strange crowds of people. At Salo-
niki the quayside belongs to every
body; Just as the boats of all nations
come to anchor in her harbor, so do
men of every race, caste and station
come to rest on the waterside. Along
the front are shops of all kinds, one or
two of the chief hotels, and the conti-
mental style Of cafe is present In force.
The shops are mostly of the open
kind; that is, you are expected to do
business through an open window
while you stand on the pavement. You
will. Of course. be in the way Of all Pc
destrlans, especially as there will be
sure to be one or two interested spec
tators of your deal; but then. to stop
the traffic, either on the kings high
way or on the sidewalk. is quite per-
missible in Saloniki.
Two friends meet in the street, they
stop. exchange salutations. and an ami
mated conversation ensues. They take
up great deal of room; but every
one respects the unwritten law of the
Orient and our two WORTHLESS continue
their discourse, needless of time and
place. rs only your true Oriental can