The Washington herald., 1918-09-22

Runnor had II last spring that women
prominent IN society and club work
had pledged themselves. as an ex-
ample to the women OF the nation.
not to buy summer hats. giving the
money thus saved to war funds. The
women themselves disclaimed any
such stand. by vigorous denial and
by proceeding to buy-wen. almost
their usual supply of summer mil
Hnery. These women felt, after due
thought and delberation, that such
an action would have far from good
effect on industry. because IL would
in no way help TO keep business going.
So about the only changes one actual
IL sees this fall are leaning toward
more uniformity in shape and a new
simplicity that Is the acme Of smart
ness and elegance
Costumes will depend upon millinery
for the bright spots The somberness
which characterizes the suits and
coats will find relief in the accen-
tuated tones Of headgear. Not that
we will overturn the festive dyepots
in search for hectic combinations; far
nom IT But we will see the taupe
or brown daringly topped by hat Of
orange chenille braid; navy suits
with chapeaux Of soldat blue; black
with dead white, or with colored fan
tastes Bags to match are frequently
seen with soma OF the new hats, and
the two high spots OF color carry out
the new effect and create a distinctive
appearance. Velvet. duvetyn, plush,
felt and georgetts are favored mate
rfals, and the prominent colors in
cIude several shades Of blue, beige,
volga green. taupe and brown; and
OF course purple hats are tnescapaole
for early fall wear.
since the government mas ofncially
recognized a number Of uniforms for
women who are in various branches
OF the service, ii Is a natural result
thaf hats should be created TO com
plete the costume. Designers nave
given this phase most careIul con-
sideration, in order that they may
possess style, comfort and becoming
ness. and yet answer the purpose Tor
which they are Intended Tne Shapes
are being standardized. and the sale
OF them will be limited TO those
whose business and privilege it Is
to wear them.
Todues, toques everywhere, and not
another share can be said to be so
natty nor so universally becoming.
With the topcoat or suit. the close
fitting toque with a veil creates a
result Of smartness. Many Of the
newest shapes are Of the telescope
made so exclusively popular last
spring. With a fairly tall crown of
crepe or velvet. the brim Is a sort
roll Of the same or Of satin, with
perhaps tassel Of silk fringe or a
beaded ornament These toques are
for the youthful face. however, and
faces less sure OF themselves should
keep to the more conservative shapes,
trimmed with small quills or ribbon,
or the new feather flowers.
Feathers, particularly ostrich in all
its forms, viii be greatly in demand.
Somebody once said that to make
an article popular one had but to
rake II hard to get. So owing to
Its scarcity, we will all long for
ostrich and consequently go a-hunt-
ing in all the attic hat-boxes for the
discarded plumes and bands we wore
years ago. Ostrich famine may be
accounted for by the fact that IT
- considered a non-essential. and
.he shipping of II has been curtailed
90 such an extent that IL isn't shipped
at all to speak Of! So we are depend-
ing on the stocks already on hand,
and when they are exhausted. we HE
as over to a renovating shop. to have