The Washburn times. [volume] (Washburn, Wis.) 1896-1976, 1918-01-03
MORESUDST|TUTES
A Plea to Housewives to Try
Them Before COndemning.
HINTS BY COOKERY EXPERT.
Christine Terhune Herrick Of the Vigi-
lantes Suggests Less Expensive
Meats, More Vegetables and Simpler
Desserts-Get Used to Cheese.

Desserts-Get Used to Cheese.
Let us look at the ordinary dinner
bill Of fare for moment. Suppose we
begin with soup. The expensive clear
soups are taboo on most tables unless
they are made like the French bouillOn
and the bouilli or meat used to make
the soup also utilized, and even then
they are rather beyond the purse or the
inclination of most of us. But is their
departure a real loss to our palate?
Are we not as well fed with purees of
different kinds, with the boundless
number Of vegetable soups, either clear
or cream, with soups that have fish
or a milk foundation as with the con-
somme of any order?
OF course the meat course Is the
crux of the situation for most persons.
I grant that there are a few persons
who decline any cuts of meat save
those that are tender enough to be
roasted or broiled, but even before the
late stringency / fancy there were not
many who could indulge this prefer
ence. Most of us have had to depend
upon the less expensive portions and
tried to make up by care In cookery
and seasoning for the defects in flavor
and juices. If nutriment is any object
It is we'll to recollect that some of the
pieces of meat richest in nourishing
qualities come from the less costly Sec
lions of the animal.
AS matter of course, all meat Is
dear now, but I venture to believe that
those who think no meal Is complete
without 1t lack certain kind of edu-
cation in gastronomy. If meat substi-
tutes are despised 1t is usually because
those who have cooked them have not
understood how to compound and sea-
son them. Fish of all kinds should
have an honored post on the table meat
has evacuated. Vegetables, especially
In this season, should be plentifully
employed and combined with a little
meat to give savoriness, or with cheese
or with eggs or served In salads. We
have not begun to comprehend what
can be, done with vegetables or to learn
how easily we can become accustomed
to a dish Of these, or of cheese fondu, or
cheese souffle, or cheese pudding, or
cheese sandwiches, or any one of half a
dozen preparations In which cheese Is
served as favoring and nutriment,
instead of the inevitable roast, boiled,
stewed, broiled or fried animal food.
When we arrive at the sweets, there
is another station at which we can
offer plea as to the excellence OF the
less costly kinds. With ripe fruit, ell
Their fresh or stewed, in abundance, as
1t should be for months to come, the
question Of desserts seems one Of minor
Importance. Yet even here we can
offer trifies, custards, floats" blanc
manages, jellies, delicate buildings and
puffs which are no whit inferior In
taste to heavy, rich sweets, such as
pies and tarts, and are far more whole
some. Their good qualities ought to
Offset, even with CRITICS, the fact that
they cost less than the substantial com
pounds l deprecate incline to fancy
that those who include all inexpensive
sweets along with meat substitutes In
one sweeping condemnation lack ex-
perience of what can be done.