The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-06


 put any more than the American allot- ment of wool into their new gowns, In order that the patriotic American traders would not be offended and refuse to eX- ploit gowns that look dsloyal.
 Individual designers insist that no wool should be used in the new clothes. They confine their acceptance of it to em- broidery made from ends of yarn that cannot be used for knitting. We are shown remarkable street frocks and restaurant gowns which depend for their color and brilliancy upon waste
 paper basket material, so we are told quarter yards of colored wools that were left from army and navy garments. We are shown efficiency gowns in which a gold colored foundation is covered by black Georgette surface, the latter un-
 hooking at the shoulders and dropping down to form ornamental apron on the skirt, to disclose low-necked satin blouse suitable for a restaurant and a play.
 There are economy costumes in which Georgette foundation in pastel color is disclosed when a one-piece jersey tunic or poonaise is taken from it. With the latter in it's place, the gown is suitable for shopping, for trains and for the morning activities; and with the somber | jersey pinafore shed, the Georgette gown becomes a fragile thing, butter 1 fly emerging from it's dull colored cocoon.
 | The government gave the clue, and the l world of trade is swimming on a high, l strong current of optimism and success. | Something happened when defeat seemed almost inevitable. Individuality, insight
 into the emotional side of women, the real desire to help the government in l whatever it asks, have given fillip to l the midseason trade in clothes which the l greatest optimsts could not have fore
 told. So everyone drinks to the health of wool conservation.
 1 It is well that this thing has happened, for the midseason French clothes were
 not plentiful enough to create a strong | wave of interest on the part of the pulp | lie, and the announcement by the Penn l sylvania railroad that it will remove it's l two Florida specials will curtail all south l ern pleasure travel to such an extent 1 that the Palm Beach season cannot be 1 held up, at the preesnt moment, as an incentive to buying new clothes.
 However, the difficulty in getting suf- ficient coal to heat the large houses of I the we'll to-do in the north may cause them to go to a temperate climate. Al ready the very rich are talking of spend- ing the winter on house-boats in south ern waters. At present it is tossup as to whether or not the northerners will stay north.
 Upon this decision great deal of the new costumery rests. However, the de- signers are treading water. as it were, and producing clothes that are different from what has gone before, in the hope
 that enough people will go south to speed
 up the midseason business
 l A FEW FRENCH GOWNS
 A number of the importers have re-
 turned from Paris with midseason gowns,
 and these are disappointing In large
 measure, but a few of them point to
 something new. and their presence is at
 least stimulating
 There are far more interesting sketches
 coming over than gowns, as they purpose !. to be the new clothes worn by the wom-
 an in Paris who are buying smart things. !, There has been an about-face in the at
 titude of the fashionable people toward
 clothes since the entry of America into
 the war. The connection may not appear on the surface to those who are not in ,, terested in this kind of subject, but the , vast amount of money spent by our we'll to-do army in Paris has stimulated trade