New-York tribune., 1918-02-17
Indian and Scottish Designs
Show War Influence

~1A~ess~AASS
All French clothes are founded on French
history. Nothing in the study of dress is
more interesting than the close bond that has
always existed in Paris between fashion and
a national episode. One comes to the conclu-
sion, after reading vast amount of French
literature that has to do with French fash
ions, that it is the first time in her history
that she has ignored stupendous event when
she came to use her scissors and dive Dot.
However, Americas entry into the war
seems to have created an influence toward
primitive Indian fashions, and the glorious
exploits of the Scottish regiments have brought
the sashes and buckles and plaids of those
uniforms into women's apparel
The manufacturers have learned how to in
corporate brilliant Scottish designs in the
weaving of jersey, and we shall be inundated
with this fabric from now on.
They have used the soft surface and the
brilliant colors to give an accenting note to
rough material which is called peau de mar
motto. coat of it is shown in the sketch.
1t is of dark blue, and the yoke collar with
Its sash at the side, and the immense cuffs are
of blue and yellow jersey. The hem of this
coat has more fulness in it than one looks for
this spring, but it is probably trying to make
up for the scantiness of the skirt beneath.
The sleeves have the wide flare at the wrist
which dominates so many of the French clothes
and which is revival of the fashion made
continentaly popular by Mrs Castle few
years ago, when she was doing stage dancing.
Such sleeves when used on coats are not
suggestive of warmth, but the new trick is to
use snappers on the inside near the wrist.
which hold the cuffs together and bring them
snugly into the arm.
Playing With
Beads
AS far as the French exhibitions of clothes
have gone, there seems to be universally
among the designers to employ beads on one :
piece frocks.
This trick began in November, and the re-
suit was seen in this country when Cheru't'
Chanel and others sent over their first spring
frocks.
The beads used are wooden and coored'
Sometimes they are mixed in with twine en-
broidery. These beaded accessories are pre-
ferred to lace, although the latter fabric is
revived for gowns, blouses, capes and hats
The revival of the Indian colors and worh-
manship in the fashions may have caused tn''
use of beads, and there is no doubt that wheh
1T is we'll done it is effective. The trouble '
that it may quickly be overdone.
The sketch to-day, which has just come over
from Paris, shows frock of night blue siN
mousseline, fabric which the French ais
using extensively in the spring clothes anu
which creates shudder at this time OF the
year in America when we are considering
revival of thick flannel underwear, woolie"
stockings and fur-lined coats for house veal
But spring is on the calendar and the clotne'
are made for it, and this frock is one OF them.
1t is opened at each side to show panel q q
turquoise blue crepe, and there are sleeves =.
this crepe to match, cut in the accepted waS wa,
which, with the f1aring hem that is usqans
quite unbecoming, is a return to mediavahsl,.. ~. .
There is bead belt, panel above the knees
and a wide turnover collar. The beads aIe
blue, black, yellow and red.