Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1918-01-09

The material of this waist is lime
green handkerchief linen, with the new
peasant collar embroidered in threads
Of tan-colored silk. The deep cuffs are
made to match.
quite dead and which calls for gay
colors.
Black panne velvet and tulle, as well
as jet, have been the fabrics chosen
for these separate bodices which
are put above Algerian skirts of satin
In any of the blues, greens, reds and
puppies that the skin will not tolerate.
The accessories which fashion will
spring upon us are gorgeous in color
ing. All that need be said Is that
worsted embroidery is in high favor.
Sometimes, when an artist wants to
get a bit of brilliant color into an
otherwise demure picture, a cat play
ing with balls of colored wool is
thrown recklessly over the background
and the effect always catches the eye.
Taking this as the foundation of the
work that Is being done by the Paris
dressmakers, we can build ourselves
up into some sort of colorful picture
that will catch the attention wherever
we display ourselves.
A dark blue gown Is nothing but a
dark blue gown to those who know
nothing of the possibilities of combin-
ing it with something vivid; but when,
against the midnight sky surface is
put a design of the Dakota Indians,
then the dark blue gown takes to
itself gayety which it has lacked.
1t is quite true that the designers in
Paris will also mingle opposing colors
through the use of double faced mate
rails, but they are evidently deter
mined to get the very best they can
out of the color scheme in dress by
using primitive embroidery against a
somber surface.
coIored Crystals Used.
In the new gowns there will be as
much colored crystal work as colored
worsted embroidery. 1t looks as though
the crystals will be given over to the
evening costumery and the worsteds
to the street clothes. Only few OF
the French dressmakers have put
sequins on clothes, but each and all
have taken up colored bead work with
enthusiasm and exploited 1t with all
the frankness of vivid colors that is a
part of the American Indian as well as
his Southern ancestors.
Lanvin, for example, makes black
satin gown for informal evening wear
that is nothing but series Of straight,
primitive panels falling over slim,
tight, transparent skirt of periwinkle
blue chiffon. The edges of this skirt
are beaded and fringed with periwin-
kIe crystals, in the fashion with which
Americans are peculiarly familiar. The
bodice is slimly built, of black satin,
opening over a panel front of the blue
chiffon and crystals, and the long,
straight sleeves which are not full, but
hang far away from the arm like a
panel and are negligently caught into
the wrist by a tiny bracelet of crystal
and chiffon, are made of the blue
weighted with great tassels and frin-
ges of periwinkle crystals.
Both Premet and Worth have adopt
ed a smashing touch of color on a
dark gown, in the way of broad sash.
Premet ties hers In a big bow at the
left side of the back, giving something
of the effect of one-sided hustle, and
Worth takes width of gorgeous ma
terial and makes low wasted girdle
of 1t on black or gray gown.
Smoke gray afternoon and evening
frocks have flaming red, deep blue and
emerald green sashes, slightly below
the normal waistline, made of chiffon
or tulle, heavily fringed and tasseled
at the end with colored crystals.
copyright. 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa'
per Syndicate)