Evening star., 1918-02-24
BY ANNE R1TTENHoUsE.

~ ARTS and Palm Beach command
~ the attention of those whose
fortunes are tied up in womenS $
q ann,reI Paris is more impor-
tant in large sense; Palm Beach III
.,,,,ar s.nse II depends on the view
point.
Paris is exhibiting to the American
buvers the things that we Will wear,
Palm Beach is exhibiting 10 socie'y anu
the fashion reporters those things tha'
were devised for US to wear as io's
ago as the first of December
Paris is in the experimental stage IL
is preparing for the future FaIm beach
is irving out what has been prepared
We have not as yet seen IN th'S ccuh-
try any of the new Paris gowns in
Palm Beach the gowns which were
either invented by Americans or were
sent over by Paris as forerunners are
being shown here, there and every
where 1t is not possible. therefore, iof
a sartoriaI engineer to build connect
ing bridge between the two episodes
in fashion.
Nearly all of the fashions that are
worn at Palm Beach have been sketched
and detailed in this department, he-
cause thew were turned out by Amerl-
can dreSSmakerS through local lnSpiFa
tion or through adaptation or cary
French models before or just after the
Christmas season
Therefore II is more important to dip
into the future and recount what farlS
has shown to the American buyers
What is now vorn in Palm Beach we
will undoubtedly wear through the
sprinc, but so far, in big season OF
that resort, there is nothing of extra
ordinary originality. and whatever Is
done has been foretold and outlined.
The unusual cold, the extraordinary
delays in travelling and the impossioii-
ity of getting ones trunks on tlite
heve con+rihuted to state of irritation
AT Palm Beach that one does not asso-
ciate with that land of lotus eaters anu
pleasure seekers.
Those who tried to escape the cold
In the north by going to the sun of the
south found themselves sh1verlns IN
frost and facing icestormS lhose Wno
were willing to make a journey "hich
iS long and somewhat tireSome in the
hoct Of raiIroading times arrived at
their destination worn out by changes:
DELAYS sidetracking and OFTEN iack OF
heat in the cars
n has been a toss-up with the pleas
ure seekers as to whether it was best
to fight out the situation in the north
or go to the evil they knew not OF IN
the south and the result has divtoed
the great mass of moneyed people into
two camps.
The same troubles that confronted the
pleasure seekers in going to Palnl
Beach were added thereunto 100 per
cent for those who went to Paris 10
represent our business firms and bring
back the allotment of 1000 gowns
which we consider a good showing in
this country
Last faI this allotment fell short by
500 gowns, and it is not easy to say
whether the buyers will do better or
worse this season Cargo space is eX-
ceptionally valuable going over, but
there still seems to be much room COM
ing back, and the buyers have learned
to bring great quantities of clothes into
the port as personal baggage, which
helps matters.
Callot will not allow this, and. there
fore, the clothes from that house do
not arrive until after most of the sea-
sonal fashions are settled in this coun-
try.
So what Palm Beach is doing we
know. The gowns there show the
slender silhouette, prevalence of
black and white worn separately or to-
gether, the second introduction of ging-
ham and the experiment with the calico
OF the southern mills.
There is no return to lingerie gowns,
as was family promised, but there is an
overwhelming vote cast for jersey in
its artificial silk weave as we'll as the
thin woolen weave that looks like
mems underwear.
Cornfower blue, deep pink, plaids,
checks and touches of crimson are
worn. None of these facts is new to
those who have watched the progress
Of fashions since Christmas
In Paris the buyers have not found
any astounding Inspirations, but they
have been faced with enough that is
new to realize that they can make a
persuasive appeal to women in the
spring They also know that. the sill
houette has been definitely changed
Here are some of the facts that the
cables and letters from Paris tell US:
Skirts are exceedingly narrow at the
hem and tucked under, to resemble
zouave trousers: panels of tulle and of