Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-12-08

Then there came the revolution in
mems clothes in October, 1866. 1t was
tice of Charles Stuart by John Evelyn,
a tailor. and which has since ruled the
masculine portion of the world in
more or less ornate and gorgeous
forms.
1t was in France, much later, that
the women of gay court thought it
would be fascinating to adopt this
splendid coat worn by the kings. and
from that hour dated the revolution
in women's clothes which resulted in
rough cloth.
No doubt the clash of arms in France
brought back to the minds of the de-
signers the long centuries of warfare
1870. The tunic was the Fundamental
part of the British warriors costume,
and the cuirass-that glittering
breastplate of steel and highly pol.
ished metal-was the symbol of all
fighters. So France introduced the
tunic of that other and primitive war
fare which she thought had gone for
ever. and suddenly found one August
morning that it had come to her with
all the cruelty Of the early centuries.
into the fashions of other countries,
but with small measure of success
until late this autumn. After steady
persistence, trick she has in the
making Oh all neF 1OTIlS Oh ART. tHc
least Of which is fashion, she found
that America had suddenly awakened
to the comfort and beauty of this
It is difficult to persuade American
women to go without shirt waists.
shirt from man. as they have Dor
rowed all their fashions, and they
feel. and rightly so. that there is an
element of cleanliness in putting next
L ,1.:, 1, lr,, l.
a garment that can go to the tub.
The tunic does not go to the tub, and
the only way to keep it entirely fresh
is to wear it over a long-sleeved mus
lin lining, which many women do. A
corset cover is of little avail, because
it is not high in the neck or long in
the sleeves. The careful woman finds
that a sufficient number of white wash
muslin Innings. such as are put into
one-piece frocks, are necessary ad-
juncts to ones lingerie.
4 X
The best shops. by the way, make
hip-length Innings of strong, sturdy,
fiesh-colored silk, with elbow-length
sleeves that hold the shields and just
the slightest decolletage in front.
These are not attached to the one
piece gowns; they are included in the
price and making of the frock. but
are separate garments. which may go
to the cleaners as often as one de-
sires. Every woman who has strug-
gled with the problem of keeping the
lining of cloth gown fresh when it
is part of the frock realizes the bur-
Glen that is lifted from the shoulders
in this innovation of detaching the
lining. Some women order three or
four of these hiplength, half-ftted
Innings, SO that they may never be
wanting in freshness.
The tunic and the outside blouse are
one and the same thing. You may call
it a cuirass,>or blouse with a pep
lum or a Chinese sacque. or whatever
name suits your fancy. The elemental
fact is that the fashionable blouse of
today hangs from shoulders to hips.
1t may be girdled; it may not. Its
sleeves may be cut according to the
fashion of William I. or they may be
after the manner of Dagobert of
Francc--long and wrink'cd to the
wrist.
building on this foundation, the de-
signers in America and Paris have
thrown canton and economy to the
winds and accepted this new blouse