davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The broad ax., 1918-01-05

This suit protects from the cold and
eonssrsss ssool. The short si<lrt, which
10 Of beige eoIored wool, extends % the
bust and b met BY q dep yoke md
sleeves % chiffon. The Vsiveteen coat
has collar and cuffs Of peltry and huge
poctcsts made from pieces that were
left from the skirt
was useless to appeal 10 women 10
save wool IN fhe building Of their
clothes, under the present commercial
circumstances Of clothes selling. Ths
great majority Of women buy their
clothes. They do not make them at
home. They buy what they can get
and they do not know the amount Of
material contained In Q garment.
Therefore, the government made III
appeal for cooperation In the con-
servation OF wool to those who make
and design women's garments. At
this meeting it was resolved and rules
were formulated that no man or wom-
an IN America would use over a
yards Of wool In any costume. and
less, II possible.
The response TO these rules was
given not only BY the dreszmakers,
bot By the manufacturers, the mill
people, the ready-to-wear department
stores and private dressnakers. The
decision was far-reaching. It is now
up to the women Of America to carry
out for the government O continued
process Of conservation In wool. II
win not be q hardship. One win not
have to face the charms OF doubt and
despair that opened up with the con-
servation Of food. The government
does not want q standardized uniform
for women, such as hosts OF unwise
but well meaning women advisers
have offered as b solution Of the
clothes question.
An that the women Of the country
are asked to do II not to make o gown
that has over ~ yards Of wool In II.
and Il ID the appeal OF the government
that O woman should refuse to buy
from q tailor, and retailer should re-
Iu3e 70 Duy nun u nAnnnSIorcHs BnE-
ments that have been made In defiance
Of this urgent appeal.
Long Jackets 10 Go.
me Aneacsn tailcrs and n,anufak-
turers Or ready.to- Weaf clothing wiil
cut out the long jacket, for women
when Il b made OF Wool, no matter
how light the weave; they win elm
mate fuilnes In the skirt and cut e
m short ~ deceny win permit.
Three ana q half yards q wool - q
good average measurement for the
majority Of women. but the govern
ment WIN look kindly upon. those TO
tafIers and dressmakers who must
deal with large ana stout customers,
and even here II b believed that In
diyidnailty Of design and q plentiful
NE Of other materials, rather than
eooE w1Il prodnee q gown OF eharm
ana sStfsfAetfon- -, -
TIE ann siihouetts nm b accepted
between Hudson Bay and Palm Beach
ard then crossuise. The woman who
cries out against q nzrrow skirt either
beesEse 81 tradition Or an artistic per
ception Of what her hgnre needs. need
~ 80 ~ 49,
The broad ax., 1918-01-05
/ half NEGlGEE
I..,u Delights in Tea Gown
min Confines Of Home
-. e.,o, Combinations Ars Ussd
-. Garment. which Afs
ae..suI and Fsmlnins.

Ian may clOthe herself IN sae1-
- ,sbes and pursue her mis-
= uercy. but when she reaches
9. I'll. : Confines Of her home: she
=. eIur, aside the practical dres
- .1-sa-day world and gratefully
=. - soft, ellnging draperi@ q me
-. A. ne teagown. It 10 restfal
:. s,.dudve 10 q pleasant mentai
-, 70 slip into something bewitch-
: - feminine and enjoy Ons's ease
.-rfort. II only for q moment
liter In the New York Post
-, an n is refreshing to be q mere
- # dimes. Most striking color
-s,,,nOns are used in tsagowm.
The broad ax., 1918-01-05
Chinese DesIon

m oN0Aes
n @un blouses the Chinese STYLE
!, ~ The rage and one sees long vests
esd - sann or marine blue embroid-
q 49, - large round or square motifs,
b. unread, silk or varicolored wool.
"a a.y roses are worked In with
n. G with delightful results.
sa,,A. lnese blouse may be long and
"a sA,, VI loosely held In by q besf,
tutt~ .e some Of them fasten with d
doSeS :. w NE shoulder others are
Dc ls,,. :. me side under the arm. In
aud s-t - ose the embroidery outlines
eiz6e o down the sides in eharae-
o. ~ oriental fashion. 4Blooees AZ
Co.. NC are far more Harmonious ac.
81 alnents of the straieht skirt
-, were the loose blouses e -
The broad ax., 1918-01-05

-. =. -
not - q. the -corper ana Ean snd
e1asA - testk Al ~ ~ 6te b
s. efimf1nts mol ffoua her GOWN q
e1tk - eoubins Ne goveFnmsntal
nsaMrs q sool With snothsr M
ooniAs. q he fsforn 80. IL ths
hQrr When Dring and summer fash-
isas lie bang eoneelved. the neessrity
for being careful with worsted nm
terial brings lea hardship than II ths
reform had been launched last July.
u d true that the great nass Of people
Who DO not live In the South ana
Southwest buy q vast quantity q light.
weight worsted clothes for February,
March and April; but they are quite
willing b have the worsted enlivsnsd
By chiffon, satin. EiIk Or georgstts
crepe.
n the women Of this country un6sr.
stand what d behind he new fash-
Ions. they WIN enter into ths splEit q
conservation with a. much eagernes
md sealous desire 10 do hight % tkey
have IN the saving Of meat wheat.
sugar and eerealR
A. Histery Did q
These men on the commercial ecDo-
eng board need have no fear q Oh
stinay OF rebellion against their de-
creeL The women Of other days and
other countries entered into TIE spirit
q economy IN clothes with a. mach
eagerness a they entered into tie ~
travagance Of apparel The whole
thing n In giving women IN emotional
idea which they are to work out 30
completion and success among them
selves. Obedience does not appeal 10
them, but cooperation through per.
suaxion sends them into O fame o.
endeavor.
IL may b prophesied rght here
that there win be more novelty shown
In clothes than there has been for sew
erai pears or, possibly, ever before.
Il may not be shown BY the women,
but Il win be expressed By the dress
makers
One Of the quick ways which has
leaped Into fashion for women 70 eon-
serve wool for the army n the ne Of
O short. slim separate skirt with q
cutaway coat Of velveteen, heavily
lined. Women who have such Cos
tunes declare that they win wear
these skirts with corslet blouses Of
soutached SILK and satin IN the spring,
thereby saving cotton for the govern
ment.
hats made Of worsted have already
been replaced BY those Of satin and
velvet.
Entire coat suits made Of worstsd
have narrow bias nounces mounted
on q taffeta or satin foundation. Ths
short Jacket which goes with these
stirts - 90 heavily trimmed with fur
and has such q wide waistcoat OF
satin or matelasse that Il can be con-
sidered O bit camouhage.
Much Peitry Used.
One Of the very smart gowns made
for q bridal trousseau. which used up
less than AZ yards Of thin WOODEN
material had two bias fioonces aeross
Q tafreta skirt. with q deep hem q
peltry, and q blouse OF embroidered
satin with wristlets Of peltry, over
which was 4 eoatee Of the wool with
wide Chinese sleeyes-the only bit Of
extravagnnce-edged with peltry and
lined with eolored satin. There was
q sailor collar Of peltry and q jap
anese bow OF satin pulled through
two loops In the back Of the coat b
hare from the waistline.
There 70 another coat suit In which
less than four yards Of wool have
been used. The skirt L. narrow and
slim and extends into a loose eorslet
effect over the waist to the bust.
Above that u chiffon yoke with long
The broad ax., 1918-01-05

WoeIen suit that meets decree. The
sisirt has two fiounees o. wusi laid On
q elk lining which GETS ~ depth By
means % q ham % peltry. The short
coat shown a-waisteoat and sleeves %
satin with q Japanese bow pulled ODD
~ through buttonhoies a. the back, 10
fare cut from ne waist.
away top coat. which drops below the
knees, 10 loosely hung from the shoul-
ders and made o. Gun green W.
veteen with an immense cape collar
Of peltry held eIosely about the neck
with scarf Of yeIyeteen. A q bit q
trickery, to SaoE that ne coat ana
SKIRT are infefded 10 90 together, odd
bits % the wool thaf were left from
the cutting Of the skirt have been
stretched across the hipllne Of fhs
jacket In the form Of loose pockets.
These sre brilliantly lined and held IA
place with fur button
tc.pyrighf. i1l7. hy fhs Mcclure Nswspa-
- Des 9yndicnfe-1
The broad ax., 1918-01-05
Use Of lIooIIlt5
CLOTHES LIMITED Il
-Four and one Ralf Yards hssd
40 the Maximum Tor q SIN
ole Costume.
SKIRTS NARROW and SHORT
American raIlers md Manufacturers
% Ready-te-Wear Clothes WIN
Cooperate n Campaign
% conssrvstiea.

New York-Patriotie action b D.
nanded Of women IN clothes 20 wen q
In food There was IN important
meeting IN New York which consoli-
dated the cooperation q the trade
with TIE commercial economy board.
which has tn headquarters IN wash
ington. The government knew that &c
The broad ax., 1918-01-05
crspe WorI<ers

Women who work fn Grape faetories
have curious contract with their en-
pioyers. They must promise not 10
engage IN any housekeeping AFTER
workins hours 30 that their hands WIN
not become too coarse for the delicate
uurk.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16

Washington Sept 16-Receipt of the official text of the Austrian peace proposal awaited today by officials here but unless the is couched in terms radically different from the contained in press despache was felt that the plea could be characterized Ger man ruse obtain the best possible terms before an allied victory could impose the most punishment upon her.
 The proposal viewed by officials it reiterated does not contain single basis upon which the entente powers or the U S. would be willing to meet the authors of the plea In most circles held that the putting forth of the proposal at this time was admission of the growing weakness of the central powers.
 If reply made is considered likely that the Allies would make joint after exchange of views.
 While Austria preparing her note to the bellllgeren nations proposing that they meet in informal discussion Of peace terms neutral country Germany making ready to make another separate peace Belgium It is that the Belgian has been approached with proposal that she will remain neutral during the remainder the war Germany ready withdraw to the frontiers that were violated in August, 1914.
 It is affirmed from Berlin that the Austrian government acted on its own initiative in sending out its peace proposals but the offer of Germany to Belgium points to what may be more than coincidence and probably desperate peace offensive is well under way.
 If official sentiment is reflected by newspaper comment at capitals the efforts of the Central Powers to reach peace by negotiation doomed to failure In Lon don and Paris the offer of Austria very cody received while at Washington it is pointed out that the United States will not entertain any peace entaves that at best bring about only temporary respite from histes and will leave
 Continued Page Three)
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
LBY The Associated Pressl

Along the battle ine American attention is directed chief y at the front in Lorraine where the Americans under fire from the fortress of Metz and apparently making ready for drive against the Kremhild line to which the Germans with drew their shattered columns from the St. Mhe salient
 Along this front American forces the threshold of Germany.
 The aerial and artillery have been active the American front southwest of Metz The enemy guns have hammering the American lines but infantry attacks have developed Allied avator have bombarded railroad ceners and other military targets in the Metz while enemy air men have bombed places within the American lines cuding St. Mihe
 The victory General Pershings has had more than merely local effect German lines to the southwest have been weakened by the terrific blow dealt along the heights of the Meuse while to the northwest the Germans forced adapt themselves to the which has taken from them the cornerstone of their positions to the east of Verdun
 Slowly the British creeping the Hindenburg line in Pcardy Massemy northwest of St. Quenn has been taken the Germans who also forced out of Honon wood farther south.
 retirement in the Flanders still going the British pressing closely the heels of the he exrcates his forces from the perlOus salient into which he rushed last April.
 East of the Aee and south of the Asne close contact with the enemy is being maintained by the Allies, /
 (Coninued Page Three)
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
SLATE EvADED LAW REQUIRING
 REGISTRATION
Alien Enemy Had Worked in 30 Different Cities Dur
 ing the Last Year.

The arrest of Joseph Slate, Ger. man alien, in this city Saturday, may turn out to be a matter of national importance. He was taken into cus- tody by the Police Department, and this morning was turned over to the local Department of Justice Agent c. H. Lane.
 Agent Lane made. an investigation into the papers and personal effects of prisoner and found that Slate has been in 30 different cities since the law was passed compelling German aliens to register, a matter which he overlooked entirely and to which he Philadelphia and Washington Navy yards, and has also ben in numerous coast cities, including Baltimore. New York, Brooklyn and Boston. His last place of employment before coming this city was in New London, where he resided at Il Brewer street. Slate is 35 years of age, a structural iron worker by trade, has a good edu- cation and speaks excellent English. His success in obtaining employment in so many different government plants is probably due to these facts and to his pleasing appearance.
 While no action has as yet been taken in his case, the Department of Justice authorities have no doubt he will be informed, with possibly jail sentence besides.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
ONE OF TRIO HAD
 VERY REALISTIC
 ROBBERY DREAM
Missing Money, Thought Stolen, Secreted in Room
 By Sleepwalker.

William Thomas, Max Thomas and Fred Fahr, all of 354 Stratford ave- nue, reported to the police today that sometime during last night their apartment was entered and s29 be- longing to William, $21 belonging to Max and a wallet containing a birth certificate, a registration card, and a pass, the property of Fahr, were stolen.
 Detective George IWashburn was as signed to investigate the case by Cap tain E. O. Cronan, and when cross examining the youths he discovered they had been discussing robberies, ghosts, and other matters before re- tiring last night.
 He also deducted that one of them was addicted to walking in his sleep, and upon this theory he proceeded to search the house. It was not long be- under a carpet, others stuffed behind a radiator, and the wallet was found under a trunk. More money was found in the ornaments on the mantel shelf and behind pictures.
 After all the money and other ar- ticles had been restored to their own- CTS it developed that one of the boys has been q sonambulist for some time and it was the discussion about rob- bers, burglars, and ghosts, before re- tiring last night which caused him to get up in his sleep and put the money as he thought in a safe hiding place
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
BALF0UR DISCREDITS
 HUN PEACE PROPOSAL
British Foreign Secretary Says It Is Incredible Any thing Can Come of It. NOT A GENUINE
 EFFORT FOR PEACE Cannot Honestly See in Plan the Slightest Trace of
 Goal All Desire.

London, Sept. 16-A. J. Bal four, the British foreign secre- tary, giving his personal views on the Austrian peace note to visiting journalists, said:
 Tt is incredible that anything can come of this proposal"
 Coming after the recent speech of Friedrich von Payer, the German Im- perial vice chancellor MT. Balfour said:
 ''The cynical proposal of the Aus trian government is not genuine at- tempt to obtain peace. It is an at tempt to divide it."
 CT cannot honestly see in the pro- posaIs now made to us, as have been able to study them, the slightest way that the goal we all desire-the goal of peace which shasl be more than a truce-can really be attained"
 The foreign secreary said he was utterly unable to see that a conference proposed by Austria could have the desired end.
 MT. Balfour said no one could take on himself the task of rejecting with a light heart any proposal which would shorten the length of the war.
 Also he declared no coalition ever had been strong as the Allied coali- ton and that the enemy would not succeed in breaking it.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16

dent. The minority however favor following other leaders and are loud in their declarations that they will go to the first line trenches in France before they will submit to the arbi- tration of an unfair body, as they term the National War Labor Board.
 Little stock is taken by other men in Bridgeport of the threat of the machinists to revolt from the Ameri- can Federation of Labor. The ques- tions are asked Where will they go? What will they do? They will be like blind men cast adrift in rudderless boat. The only body with whom they can affiliate is the discredited and dis loyal I. W. w, the members of which have been convicted of being the tools of the Hun"
 Up to this afternoon great strides had been made in the factories in get ting machinery in order and prepara- tions are being made at top speed to have all the wheels turning tomorrow morning when the gates of the shops are swung open to admit thes trikers returning to their benches and lathes
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
TWO SERIOUSLY
 HURT IN AUTO
 ACCIDENT TODAY

Harry Courtland, 53, of 415 Maple wood avenue, foreman employed at the U. M. c. Co.,, was thrown from his automobile with his wife and another woman when the car struck bad spot in the road near Greenfield Hill schortly before noon today. Court land sustained four fractured ribs on the left side and Is suffering from in- ternal injuries caused by the machine which passed over his body. His wife was thrown on her head and sustain ed a fractured skull.
 A passing automobile owned by Charles Favreau, of Bedding, picked the injured man up and rushed him to the Emergency hospital where he was given first aid by Dr. F. J. Kee- gan, who had him placed in the ann bulance and taken to Bridgeport hos pital where he lies at present in a critical condition.
 Mrs. Courtland was picked up by another car and rushed direct to St. Vincent's hospital, where it is said she is in a serious condition suffering from a fractured skull.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16

The strikers were bitter in their comments upon the speech made in Beardsley park yesterday by Supreme Court Justice George W. Wheeler, head of the Bridgeport. War Bureau. Jack Moss, chairman of the strike committee, in speaking of the address said: we are anxious to meet Jus tice Wheeler upon any platform he chooses, but preferably Beardsley park, where we would have a chance to present our side of the case to a great number of people. We could convince the crowd that we have been given a wrong deal and that the words of Justice Wheeler did us an injury and injustice"
 4 close canvass of all the factories and shops today at noon revealed that in every plant where machinists had struck a large number had returned this morning and were not even both ering about attending the meeting at the Casino this afternoon.
 | A large number of the machinists admit that the strike was badly led anl1 that a mistake had been made by them in not submitting their gTiev- ances to the National War Labor Board Men who have returned to Bridgeport from other cities where they went to get jobs speak In plain language about the leaders here and tell of the indignities which are heaped upon them by men in the same line of work in other places who re. fused to work alongside "a stacker from Bridgeport"
 According to reports circulated
 among the union men the majorit,
 will uphold the more sensible attitude
 taken by Chairman Jack Moss of the strike committee who advises the mer
 to abide by the order of the Presi.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
WORKERS FIND
 BOMB AT REAR OF
 " I. SMITH SHOP
Examination at Police Head quarters, However, Dem
 onstrates Harmlessness.

Wild excitement pervaded the vicin- ity of the w. T. Smith Manufacturing Co.,, at 157 Stratford avenue, today when machinists employed by the concern discovered what they thought was bomb in the rear of the ma- chine shop.
 The alleged bomb was about eight inches long and had copper wires at tached, to it. It weighed about a pound and a half and was encased in metal cylinder.
 Gingerly the machinists picked up the internal machine and took it some distance from the building in which six other concerns have their factor ies. Presently a delegation was ap- pointed after much argument and the contraption was brought to police headquarters, where it was gently laid upon desk in the detective bureau for examination by Capt. E. O. Cro- min, chief of the detective bureau.
 Capt. Cronin casually glanced at the diabolical machine and picked it up in such a careless manner that the ma chinists who brought 1t to headquar- ters shrank in terror in the direction of the door. In order to put the fin ishing touches to the meIodramatic scene being enacted, Capt. Cronin threw the bomb almost the length ot the room into waste paper basket commenting at the same time that he was good marksman.
 When the men who had brought the bomb to headquarters and the of fee force had recovered their nerv; the captain explained to the exper machinists that he was surprised they should have mistaken a common ol garden variety of dry battery for af internal machine and suggested tha they take a course in the relation O | batteries to bombs.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16
STEEL WORKERS RETURN TO WORK
 THIS MORNING

Reading, Pa, Sept. 16.---The 1,20O or more employees of the Carpenter Steel Works, who went out on strike Sat urday morning. pending a wage ad- justment which amounts on the aver age to about 35 per cent, returned to work this morning. Several hundred employees began work last evening at o'clock on the night shifts.
 The falling off of the strike means that the unions side of the wage question will be plaRsd before the war labor board, of WI n former Presi- dent Taft is cha nan. James H. Maurer, president v the State Feder- ation of Labor, said that the return to work was the logical thing for the men to do, as when their appeal is acted upon by the war labor board their increase. if one is granted, will date from the time that they made their demands.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-09-16

It was stated on good authority this morning to representative of The Times, that the government plans to erect these houses at Central and Boston avenues, on property owned by the Bridgeport Hospital location, and owners of the Lewis property. The land will be leased at a figure de- cided by the government, for the period of the war, and the houses will follow the type erected in other cities, similar to plans followed in New Ha- ven and other places where the ne- cessity has arisen for such homes. They will follow the lines of the port able homes which have become so popular at beaches and summer re- sorts
 The houses will be erected under the direction of the United States Housing Corporation and will follow their set plans.
 The Bridgeport Hospital committee has appointed Walter 5. Lashar as its representative to carry on the neces- sary negotiations incidental to the lease of the property to the govern ment. and negotiations have already been begun with owners of the Lewis property relative to the use of thac land.
 Wood structures with wood posts and no permanent foundations which can easily be disposed of after they are no longer of use, but all possible comforts will be provided for the tenants. The sites are particularly adapted to tho purpose as the sewers and streets are already in use and the expense will thereby be much less.