davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
FIvE-INCHSLEEvES
New Length Will Aid in Saving
 Much Material.
Elimination of Large Collars Also Adds to Conservation of
 Dress Goods.

In the elimination of nOn-essentlals which is a vast process of reform go' ing on throughout the continent and touching every industry, woman finds that fashion permits her to omit the collar and cut off her sleeves to five inch lengths, observes a fashion writer.
 This is an admirable aid to re- forming clothes. A bad neckline may be cut away and stitched on its edges, or merely touched with a white or gandie piping; and sleeves that are worn out at the elbows or ungrace- fully adjusted at the wrists may be clipped off above the elbow and given a severe finish.
 The insistence upon the cuirass blouse, which is the best name that most of it's followers can find, relieves a woman's mind as to what to do With her separate skirts; and the fashion for the modified minaret tunic, which swings from the shoulders and flares at its hem, in the Arabian fashion, gives her a chance to use f1artng skirt as an upper garment.
 Little has been said concerning this minaret tunic by those who speak often of fashions. Memory is short. and probably there are hundreds who have forgotten the brief, brilliant reign of this bit of orientalism that came into being through a popular play.
 The fact that it is in fashion should be received with joy by the econo- mists. I'll tell you why. There are in every wardrobe skirts in more or less good condition that flare at the hem. They are left-overs from last season, and some of them have been worn defiantly by those who did not intend to go round the whirligig of fashion. These are the garments that can be easily turned into minaret tu- nics. As fashion permits one to wear a skirt of different material from the tunic or bodice, there is no difficulty In matching up the tunic with some fabric that will do duty beneath 1t.
 This trick of economy can be ap- piled to evening gowns as we'll as to those for the street. Velvet and satin combine well; also crepe de chine and satin, and serge and silk of all weaves.
 The flaring skirt of yesteryear can be shortened to the knees, gathered, gored or plaited to the waistline. and narrow, short skirt dropped beneath 1t. The building of the bodice de- pends upon the material in hand. Often there is enough left from skirt of average length that is cut into a minaret tunic to build a bib bodice without sleeves. Fashion, you know, still bent on economy and con- servation, permits separate sleeves from the bodice.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
A Successful Repetition.

One of the prettiest counterpanes which the hot weather has brought forth is of unbleached muslin with a two inch band of small-f1owered chintz around the entire spread placed so that it falls just within the edge of the bed. From the many-colored flow CTS of the chintz, the bolder motifs are picked out and worked in colored mercerized cottons in single sprays placed here and there in an apparent ly careless fashion over the center of the counterpane. This offers a sug- gestion for anyone who is planning a bedspread to match the cretonne or chintz hangings of a summer bedroom. By picking out the smaller flowers or motifs of the figured material and im- itating the colors, if not the exact out line, a very unusual effect may be off, tained.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
Why Ancient Paintings Last.

In the cheerful days when Rem brandt van Rijn arranged, had, and from reasonable distance enjoyed his own funeral and then watched the prices of his pictures soar when Trans Halls would sober up and then dash off an immortal canvas with thirst driving him to short cuts that to this day painters strive after at hard la bor; when Jan Steen would not listen to the voice of propriety, but chortled with unholy glee whenever drunken row began-and painted it-artists went in" for science.
 They kept linseed oil for 30 years and more and were very careful to select and grind and mix their own colors. Metallurgical and Chemical Engineering informs us. They clung to Renaissance traditions, but the tra- ditiOns were sOund-as witness their canvases to this day. Later painters experimented without the vision of the research mind, and their canvases show their frequent errors. It is not always wise for the uninformed to try experiments.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
FOR A NEAT DRESSER COVER
Remnants From the Popular VoiIe Cur
 tains-AIso May Be Used for Dainty Pin Cushions.

Now that voile for curtains is so popular there are doubtless many peo- pie who have small remnants left. These can be used for making a beau- tiful dresser cover and pin cushion at very little cost.
 For the cover take a piece of voile and measure for a four-inch hem on all four sides, pull about four threads each way and hemstitch. Edge this with crocheted lace or any other heavy lace. The center is very pretty if em- broidered with four small wreaths, one in each corner, or any other pattern that you may like to carry out the scheme of the room.
 Next haste q lining of thin silk of any desired shade to the underside and finish with small stitches to the voile, and the cover is finished.
 The pin cushion can be made in any desired shape and lined with the same material as was used for the cover. Edge the cushion with an inch wide ruffie of satin ribbon the same shade as the lining and use as an edge fin ish of lace to match the cover. Hem stitch and embroider the center of the cushion to match dresser cover. This makes a very pretty little set, and very little cost.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
WRITE LETTERS THAT CHEER
Why EpistIes Written to Soldiers Should Contain Maximum of
 News That Is Agreeable.

Do you give as good as you get? Does your soldier boy fill his letters with accounts of the disagreeable things he is meeting, or does he cheer fully ignore them and try to make you believe that he is having the best time ever? He knows that you can do noth- ing to change conditions as he finds them, so, in his fine philosophy, why pass the worrying on to you? Turn the picture around and look at the boys side of 1t. You will never know the half of the things he endures i; he won't tell you now, and when he comes back he will wave them aside as of no importance. As you can't help him, he can't help you. A grumbling letter, or one full of Encouragement, will only make soldier little less efficient In his job; you will still have the home problems to tackle. The need is not so much for more letters, but for more cheerful letters, Is the word that comes from the camps. "The mud-soaked old Bills of the trenches, cheerfully ignor- ing vermin, rain and shell fire, con- tinue to wind up their epistles with, Hoping this finds you in the pink, as it leaves me at present." says Lieu tenant Dawson. "They are always in the pink of epistolary purposes, what ever the strafing or the weather" We at home should be sin the pink" We should de more than ..keep the home fires ,burning;" we should let them shine on and in the letters that we send to camp.-William Frederick Bigelow in Good Housekeeping.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
How to ReeounIze chapIaIns.

The war department has again changed the insignia for chaplains, and again the cross will give way to the shepherds crook, which was the chaplain's insignia up to 1898. Under the former regulations Jewish chap lains in the service had the option of wearing the cross or discarding the insignia altogether. Representatives of the organizations of Jewish rabbis protested that an insignia could be found which would be symbolic and free from criticism of believers in any creed, and that the adoption of the crook would obviate all controversy on this subject. The size and design of the crook are now under consider ation and will be announced at an early date, but 1t is said that no reg ulation will be made requiring chap lain to wear any insignia.
 The only chaplain of the Jewish faith in the navy says that he is sat isfied with the naval insignia and has made no application for a change.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
FATE OF THE SHORT JACKET
Doubt Is Expressed Whether the One- Time Popular Garment VIII Re-
 tain It's Past Favor.

It is a question as to whether the short jacket will remain at the pin- nacle of fashion, but nevertheless a woman who wants to be in the picture will risk a chance on it and will find that 1t is not an easy garment to achieve through alteration, says New York fashion, correspondent.
 There is another type of coat, which appeared in America year ago in a modified form, and upon which the French place a high valuation. It is usually called the buttonless jacket. It is crossed in the front In surplice form. and these fronts extend into long ends that go across the peplum of the jacket at the back, are loosely knotted, and then dropped. >
 There is short jacket which has taken the long one as its inspiration, but 1t will have nothing to do with the Apeplum. It Is fashioned after the sweaters that were worn this winter. It reaches to the waistline, and the fronts, crossing below the bust, make a soft girdle and Japanese bow at 1he back.
 The Eton jacket, the bolero, the bell boy jacket and the Dagobert corslet are in high fashion, but they are gar ments that demand to be bought today from tailor or shop. They cannot be evolved with any degree of success from something that was good in other days.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
TIDAL WAVE OF NEW SLEEVES
One Would Think World Had Gone Mad Over Arm Coverings, Fashion
 Correspondent Writes.

One feels, in running full tilt against the tidal wave of new sleeves, the utter futility of trying to describe even the best of them, says fashion writer. Continuing, she asserts: One would think that the world had gone quite mad over arm coverings.
 Possibly it is true that the French and American designers, realizing that they could not introduce anything spe- cially brilliant or novel in the new costumery because of the lack of ma terials, put their genius to work in de- vising vast variety of complex and stimulating minor details.
 However, this does not contribute to the pleasure a woman thinks she will find in wearing her old clothes. We are wise enough to know that it is in the adoption of changing details that the majority of women show their knowledge of fashions.
 A woman may continue to wear a blue serge gown cut in the form of a coat and skirt if she realizes that she must instantly adapt that gown to the tight or loose cuff, the high or the low waistline, the gather or the plain hip.
 A somersault in costumery is not al- ways followed, even by well-dressed women, but there are none so poor in interest but they will do honor to a quick change in the minor detail of a costume.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
Why Pliers Fight En Masse.

Paul Rockwell says in a letter from France to Chicago Daily News: "Bom- bardment fliers work en masse and there is little opportunity for individ- ual exploits. The esprit de corps in every group is great. Each member feels proud of the glorious work accom- plished by his unit. Every squadron flying in the Vuillemin group has spe- cial insignia painted on both sides of the fuselage. All the work I saw must have been done by real artists. The members of one squadron patch every hole made in the machines by Ger man missiles with a bit of white can vas ornamented with a small black Maltese cross-the insignia borne by all German airplanes. More than one machine is thfckly plastered with these scars of honor"
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
HOLY LAND WELCOMES MULE
Why Meek and LowIy ouadruped Has Been Received With Favor In
 Ancient Palestine.

One of the innumerable blessings that the war has brought to enfran- chised peoples Is the American mule that the British army took-or. that took the British army-to Palestine. The Turks had robbed the farmers of the Holy Land of all the customary live stSck and the work animals were replaced by mules purchased from the Britons.
 It Is great thing for the farmers of that historic but not hustling land to come in contact with the energetic when he feels like it-American mule No matter whether the mule is at work or at play, he will keep his owner busy. The mule is at once occupation, entertainment and instruc- ton. He will hustle the East" with out incurring the penalty MT. Kpling laid down as Inevitable for occident1A als who attempt that performance.
 It will be great thing for the mule, too. There in the Bible lands he has helped redeem from the heather and will help to make blossom again like the rose, he may, in a picturesque and soothing environment, reflect. as Is his philosophic wont, upon the meanings of all things made and rejoice In his own peculiar blessings.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
WHAT THE WISE GIRLS WANT
Perfect Health, Good Features and . Clean Skin Leave Very Little
 to Worry About.

It Is the rare girl who hasn't some thing about herself that she doesn't like. Perhaps this is as we'll, since youth Is inclined to be self-centered and egotistical. Which sounds like a paradox, but what is youth but para dox? -e a.
 If young girl is in perfect health, and can boast good features and a clean skin, she has nothing to worry about, so far as looks are concerned. That her eyes are brown instead of blue, or her face Is round instead of oval, and something else is one way instead of another, are matters not to worry over. There are just as many people who like brown eyes as there are those who like blue, and vice versa.
 What every girl should be concerned about first of all is her disposition. Is she sweet? Is she agreeable? Is she thoughtful and helpful? These are the really big things in girls life as well as in the life of everyone else. Second. she should be careful about her health. Often from the state of her health comes her disposition. A bad stomach will make a sour temper. Bad stom- achs are often caused, in girls, from unwise eating, and too little outdoor exercise. Candies, pickles, white bread, strong coffee, are the Waterloo of many girls happiness and sue. cess in life.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
PADS OF THE DAY

Dress skirts are much draped.
 All shades of brown are favored. The new veils are bordered with nar- row fur. The fichu of lace is prophesied for fall wear.
 Small buttons are much in use as trimming.
 The necks of the newest gowns are very wide.
 Long organdie sleeves are tightly cuffed with silk.
 Collars of coats are very important this year.
 Organdie is an admirable choice for a dressy frock.
 Practically every jacket has scarf these days.
 All kinds of pleating are liked on au- tumn dresses.
 Wide tucks are seen on the skirts of thin Paris dresses.
 The all-white toilette possesses unde- niable distinction.
 Gabardine frocks are belted with narrow strips of suede.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
How Error Won Battle.

During the Afghan war of 1879 a small British detachment gained a victory over a large body of the ene- my by a mistaken order. A private named Vance, who had distinguished himself by several acts of bravery, was a great favorite with one of the officers, and during a skirmish the off, cer wanted him to carry dispatch to the colonel in command of another de- tachment. The man was only few yards away, and he called out, "Vance!" at the top of his voice. The men thought he had given the order "Advance" and immediately rushed forward with such dash and spirit that the enemy brokesan fled.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
DDTyIWNDa( ..[AIDY 1AL[ H1
THE COYOTE BROTHERS.
W MARI RAHA0RQNNER

"Of course," said the coyote, or prairie wolf, "there are creatures who don't like me-"
 '.They aren't any fonder of me-" said his brother, Jimmie Coyote.
 Now the first speakers name was Jackie Coyote and Jackie had quite a lot to say.
 twill you listen to mel" he asked of his brother.
 Certainly" said Jimmie. 'T was listening to you before. If had not been listening how could have said that there were creatures who weren't any fonder of me than of you? That was because I had been paying atten- ton to what you were saying"
 That's so," said Jackie. "Well, I'll be glad if you listen to me some more. I've lots to say to you"
 T will be delighted to-" said Jimmie. barking quite happily.
 "In the first place." said Jackie, there are some creatures, such as the prairie dogs for instance, who don't like us."
 "Wen, really" said Jimmie, "I can understand why the prairie dogs don't like us, can't your?
 '''I suppose so," said Jackie, 'but still it shows we appreciate them when we eat them up. We enjoy their tender little bodies"
 True" said Jimmie. "Yes, to hear you talk of them makes my mouth wa ter. But still, the prairie dogs don't like to be eaten up. They're very fond of living. They don't care for our sort Of appreciation"
 T suppose I can't blame them for that" said Jackie, "but still to hear you talk about how much they like to live, one would think you had turned oyer new leaf and had decided never to eat one again. Is that so?"
 'sNo!" parked Jimmie. "It's not true. I'd eat the first one saw. But what do you mean about my turning over a new leaf? haven't turned over any
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
al.d Eat the First One l Saw"

. new leaf, I've not seen one-old or new and if did wouldn't stop to turn 1t over. Leaves don't interest me-"
 Turning over a new leaf," said Jackie, means to begin over again the trying to be good" "Oh, now, I understand" said Jim- mic. "WeH, I've done nothing like that, nor will do anything like that if prairie dog happens my way"
 T have left my story way behind" !" said Jackie. "I must continue where left off."
 "Pray do," said Jimmie.
 "We had gone as far as the point where we both agreed that there were creatures who didn't like us, the coy ote family. otherwise known as the prairie wolves. But again there are some who think quite we'll of us.
 "We're smaller than the gray wolves. and the only time we're very good look ing Is in the autumn. The Mrs. Prairie Wolves are never very handsome.
 We aren't brave, for it's foolish to our minds to be brave. We don't want to get hurt. But we're wise, very wise.
 We always know whether the men have their guns or not. They say 1t Is surprising how we always know 1t. And if they haven't their guns we're quite friendly.
 Of course we like to do our own little bit of hunting, but when it comes to being hunted and with guns which always aim so straight-well, that's an entirely different question"
 Tt is, indeed" said Jimmie. You. have given a true story of the habits and ways of the coyote or prairie wolf. And like to hear about myself and yourself and all of our relations"
 "It's a fact" said Jackie, "that all creatures like to hear about them selves. And it's true of the coyote, too."
 '.Hark! Hark! Do I hear some prairie dogs in the distance?" asked Jimmie.
 ''You certainly have good ears," said Jackie, "and most certainly you have not turned over a new leaf"
 Lets go and see," said Jimmie.
 So the Coyote brothers went off a hunting but on this trip they were not what they called fortunate" which meant that the prairie dogs were for tunate and escaped a most untimely end.
 And Jackie and Jimmie had to have another kind of a supper.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
How Alum RurIfIes Water.

By using filter alum in rapid sand filters good results are being obtained in reducing the bacterial content of the we'll water. at American mobiliza- ton camps in France. says Popular Mechanics Magazine. The chemical coagulates on the sand at the top and forms film to which the bacteria ad- here as the unpurified water trickles through the bed. At regular intervals the upper surface of the sand is re- placed and fresh supply of alum in- troduced.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
Why "ThermopyIae of America"

The term, .Thermopylae of Ameri- ca," has sometimes been applied to the massacre of the garrison at Fort Ala mo, Tex, by Mexican soldiers conn manded by Santa Ana. This occurred in March, 1886. during the war for Texan independence. The fort, occu- pied by about 40 men commanded by Colonel Travis of Alabama, was sur rounded and besieged by superior force of Mexicans under Santa Ana, and after bombardment lasting sew eraIdays was carried by storm and every survivor in the fort was shot. The Mexican loss during the siege had been very heavy. The heroic fight the Texans had made gave rise to slo- gan, Remember the Alamo" which was popular with Texans during the rest of their war for independence.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
WHY,
Amputations After Battle
 Are Fewer

Under improved conditions of the treatment of wounds of the extremities and the minimizing of infections, ann putations are comparatively rare now adays. It is comforting fact that hand in hand with the diminution in the number of anputations, the qual- ity and usefulness of artificial limbs have greatly increased. I think it is fair to say that in AmeF- lea we manufacture the best types d artificial limbs, Maj. c. L. Gibson, M. R. O.. writes in Scribner's. They are in great demand in Europe. We make wonderful artificial arm, which has been a revelation to European sur geons. Unfortunately, it is quite ex- pensive, but doubtless American gen. erosity will see that no soldier who can use one to advantage fails to obtain one.
 As a result of grouping together large number of cases of amputations, as in the Maison Blanche, just outside of Paris opportunities have been given to study the conditions which give use to unsatisfactory stumps. E1pm this experience Gin civil practic he portunities for study of thf Su1 are very few) better and sur
 ods of performing operations view to future usefulness have devised. A great improvement all the recognition that stump, like other muscle, is the better for exerf and it is essential for a patient to gin wearing temporary leg at earliest possible moment, just so sd as the wound is healed. The patien morale is also greatly aided by this pr| cedure.
 Professor Depage has devised yer clever and cheap leg which he ma his patients wear and entirely forbids the use of crutches, the patient being made to walk very much as cne learns to swim, by being pushed of the dock.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
White Kid Punps.

It would be safe prediction to make to say that the footgear most In favor among smartly dressed wom- en for the coming summer will be those of white kid. The kid Is very heavy and the pump is made with a substantial sole and a military-not very high-heel. The vamp is long and there is no buckle, the toe piece en' tending up beyond the vamp line to form a sort of tongue. The toe is well shaped but narrow and there Is neat perforation across the point of the toe.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
HOW ENGLAND HELP ED KRUPP TO
 START INTERNAL. WORKS.

ED KRUPP TO START INTERNAL WORKS. There is no doubt that this country started Germany on her industrial way, showing her the ropes, gave her the wrinkles, and generally treated her as a good apprentice but it is not generally known that Krupp himself, the man who has en- abled the kaiser to hold out so long, and who led him to be- lieve that he could smash his way to world dominion, got his first capital here.
 Alfred Krupp came to Bir- mingham in 1S4O with an intro duction to a great English firm of electro-platers from Doctor Siemens, and offered them an invention of his own for rolling the metal ''blanks' from which forks and spoons are made. For once a German invention-for it must be said that the Ger mans have been good at utiliz- ing but bad at initiating out to be of use, and Krupp got f1O,OOO from the firm for his ma- chine.
 With this money he returned to Germany, went to Essen, and there laid the foundation of the gigantic business which has since become a menace to the whole world.-London Answers.
The labor standard., 1918-09-01
Which Was Lazy?

A surly looking dog sat in a wood watching squirrel frolic in the trees above. At last the squirrel playfully threw a nut at him and the dog there upon said:
 i've sat here for two hours watch ing you, and you have not done sin gle stroke of york;
 "Why, what lazy dog you must be-" replied the squirrel, 'if you've spent two hours watching me-"