davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1918-07-14

fashions are rarely fixed, but
r. never have they seemed to
nuctuate more perversely than
now. 1t does not need a Diogenes
with a lantern to find the reason for
this condition. Certain raw materials
are lacking; labor grows scarcer every
moment. although 1t shouldn't with
90 many women to be employed, and
the designers put out in the morning
whatever they dream Of at night.
To the observer these days are fas-
chatting. To the woman who thinks
she has settled the question of clothes
FOR an entire season by buying her
costumes at the beginning Of 1t the
situation is not only perplexing but
irritating.
To the reporter. the designer and
the woman with a restless mind or a
capricious taste the situation Is divert
Ing to a degree that one did not ex-
pect this summer.
1t is quite useless for the world to
20 against human nature by preach
ing standardization of apparel or food.
We will not eat the same dishes three
times day 365 days in the year. and
we will not wear the same gown ten
hours a day for twelve months. II
we can't get raw materials to di-
versify our food and apparel at least
we can stimulate the appetite and the
eyes by mixing what We have into
new forms.
Every One Plays on Fashions.
Viewed from the airplane point OF
view IL looks as IL the entire world
OF women will attempt to bring out
something new in clothes for them
selves or for their neighbors
This does not mean that they have
erased to work for the Red Cross. 1t
only means that such work has in
tensified their desire 20 dress we'll be
fore the public and has brought them
into such an active current of air
that they see new things and think
Of them with brains that might have
been almost atrophied from inaction
before the war. Stimulate a brain in
one direction, you know. and it reacts
in all directions.
A woman who goes to war relief
The sun., 1918-07-14

it was the established habit to regard
fairness OF complexion as synonymous
with beautyAit is small wonder that
women resoSSd TO masks and cos
metics. parasols and shade fans, any
thing and everything to keep the rays
OF summers sun from bronzing their
compilations.
Psychologists and anthropologists
could probably account for this point
of view. In countries such as England
during the Norman dominance, where
a northern race had the upper hand.
it was but natural to idealize the blond
type OF woman. Moreover, the woman
of leisure and nobility could preserve
and accentuate her beauty. whereas
the peasant woman's complexion was
exposed to the suns rays from her
work In the fields. While the lady in
the castle kept her skin as fair as a
baby's the woman of the people be-
came tanned and bronZed
OF course our attitldc toward mere
fairness OF skin Is different nowadays.
We are more democratic In our ideas,
for one thing. Poets and artists have
come forth to extoll through their art
the beauty of the woman OF humber
origin.
Moreover, under present conditions,
work is not killing to beauty. Eco
nomio conditions have improved -enor-
The sun., 1918-07-14

want such and such a gown because
it is repeated on all sides and is un-
suited to their type. then the dress
maker must design something that is
suitable and has character, or she will
lose her trade
When she is in danger OF losing her
trade she will begin to design. II she
can't GO this unaided, she will call in
artists who can assist. and she will
begin TO take the ideas of clever and
well dressed women and work them
The sun., 1918-07-14

aristocratic idea of feminine loneliness.
the aristocratic woman Is no longer a
creature nurtured within the shadowy
walls Of castle. She is to be found
on the golf course. and on the tennis
court; she drives her own motor or
one for the army. She sails and she
walks and she rides and she skates.
She is, in fact, no longer fair. and
fairness no longer is synonymous with
beauty. Moreover. the same condi-
tons that have made the woman of
The sun., 1918-07-14
MIDSUMMER SHOPS
HOLD ATTRACTIONS
NY sort Of embellished shoulder

A NY sort Of embellished shoulder
~ scarf is an acceptable accessory
to our dress these days. Glass
fringe is one OF the newer touches to
add charm to scarfs Of colored tulle
and net.
Gray and black are a smart combi-
nation in cloth and satin or in silk and
serge. Some touch of color. of course,
Is needed to emphasize this combina-
ton and give it bit OF dash. Oriental
embroidery. in silk or beads, is a touch
used sometimes by the discriminating
dressmaker.
Fine pin tucks are a noticeable fea-
, ture OF some OF the cloth coats that
are a part of two-piece suits Of fine
. fabric.
Soft sports hats of ribbon in all the
becoming shades of blue. rose, green
and yellow are worn at beach and
country summer places.
g.. a very effective hat worn recently
by we'll dressed young woman was
made of navy blue Georgette crepe.
Over it was stretched a network OF
deep purple fringe. The junctures of
: the different strands OF fringe were
emphasized with a small dull brown
wooden bead.
Lace is still much used in fine lin
Eerie, and the finest of real filet is used
with charming effect. 1t wears well.
too. and in these days when we try to
BUY with. wisdom we think a bit about
the durability of our lingerie.
Some OF the new all enveloping
capes OF silk jersey are lined with silk
in vivid contrasting color Cerise is
used, for instance, in a cape of biscuit
color. orange-yellow in one Of gray,
end a green lining in a cape OF dark
blue.
Where are our new blouses going 10
bpen? Nobody knows. OF course, but
Just now there is a tendency toward
acceptance of the blouse that opens
At The side. :
Although some OF the new blouses
bhoW COldrS, sui most or them
are of the collarless variety with
rolling effect at the back. American
women have found this line infinitely
becoming, and they are insisting on
Its continuance with a perseverance
that is really commemorate.
Short negligees of course are fea-
tured. but some of the very attractive
new rest robes of Georgette and chif-
s$on and tulle show long trains, some
times fan shape. sometimes simply
long ends Of the fabric trailing at the
back.
Dark sleeves are shown In some of
The attractive new blouses OF tan
Georgette. For the woman always
watching for some practical touch in
new clothes. these blouses appeal
nightly. For the dark sleeves, be |,
remembered, DO not show soil sc
quickly as do white ones. 1t Is a
rather gloomy thought TO remember
that they probably really do become
soiled almost as quickly az do white
ones.
But II you must wear a blouse for a
considerable stretch Of time-on a lone
railroad journey. for instance, or al
DAY long doing Red Cross work tina,
y may be bit dusty, you feel far freshel
The sun., 1918-07-14

their popularity, but the proportion OF
such women grows smaller each month
under the pressure of a certain set of
that are overturning
the usual schedule of life.
You can see for ourself how the
will extend to all the quar-
ters of trade. II women say 10 a high
priced dressmaker that they don't
The sun., 1918-07-14

exacting about variety. when they
learn how to cater to their own types.
and when they suggest to designers
who have heretofore been inaccessible
and naughty. then We will create our
own fashions. and not until then.
There will always be large number
Of women who will take the designers
word on fashions, their suitability and
The sun., 1918-07-14

At the left is separate tunic
blouse of white chiffon en-
broidered in circles of blue.
with two ruffles of pleated
chiffon below the waist. Sash
and skirt of crepe de chine.
At right - New gown made
from an old one. The founda-
ton is blue taffeta, with a
tunic, short sleeves and vest
made from red and blue print
ed chiffon. =
The sun., 1918-07-14

at the end OF the time in a dark
sleeved blouse than in a light one.
On some of the new suits pockets
are emphasized with a band OF fur at
the top. and on some OF the silk
frocks they are baglike in shape and
size. OF course the new calico frocks
have pockets, some OF them. but they
are quite prim and flat. bound off, as
oehts calico pockets, with bit OF the
same material, cut bias.
Direct from China comes a consign-
ment of grass linen in pink and white.
1t is thirty-four inches wide and sells
for $3.50 yard. 1t will lend itself to
very effective summer frocks. as it
possesses the crispness so much to be
desired this season when dfgandy
frocks set the lead for warm weather
wear.
The home dressmaker has an oppor-
tunity to produce very good effects by
finishing sash ends and tunics with
fringes. Chenille fringe in various
dark colors sells for $1.s5 a yard, and
for $3.50 a yard comes heavy wide
silk fringe.
One way to conserve fabrics is TO
| carry paper parasols. The fact is at
| fashionable seashore resorts there is a
vogue for attractive Japanese paper
parasols, and as they are very much
less expensive than silk parasols the
young girl who takes up this fad can
secure a parasol to go with almost
every frock in her wardrobe.
They are made with wooden handles
and short stubby ferules. such as one
finds In many OF the fabric parasols
BY means Of a ribbon or silk cord at
tached to the handle such a parasoi
can be dangled over the wrist when
not in use.
| There are all sorts of oddities in the
way OF notepaper for the woman who,
perhaps for the first time in her life,
has many overseas letters to write.
One sort Of stationery. OF the reguia-
ton foreign correspondence thinness,
| Is lined with narrow gray and white
stripes. This Is especially smart and
In much better taste than that in
which wide red. white and blue stripes
play the part OF lining.
However. ones taste for the ma
tional colors may be INDUCED in some
very cheerful paper that would bring
bit OF brightness into a dismal
trench on damp day. This paper
shows narrow red and blue border,
or also border only on the long cut
edge.
| japanese. grass rugs are more and
more tempting, for they are made in
heavy. soft quality and in charmina
designs-with patterns OF soft green
or brown on their yellowish ground
They are not expensive. One six by
nine feet costs 80.
A calendar that many persons who
constantly wish to be reminded of
their patriotism might like shows the
Star Spanged Banner attractively
printed in a little red, white and blue
frame, above the conventional calen-
dar leaves.
Waterproof match safes Tor soldiers
are sold for "a cents, in silver finish
Other novelties for the men in uni.
form Include trench lighters, in ster.
ling silver for s425, and Iockets with
! a place for photograph at ga.
The sun., 1918-07-14

The home dressmaker has an oppor-
tunity to produce very good effects by
finishing sash ends and tunics with
fringes. Chenille fringe in various
dark colors sells for $1.e5 a yard, and
for. $3.50 yard comes heavy wide
silk fringe.
The sun., 1918-07-14
No Wool, Therefore. Long Coat"

Now. another bit OF perverscncs' IN
fashions, which is not as bad As It
sounds, Is that France has brought IN
three quarter coats as a new summer
fashion at time when three Govern
ments have asked women TO economic
In wool.
These suits are made of WOO ana
look as though all obedience had teen
thrown to the winds. But this IS no'
so. The tailors claim that the suit "a
made on such slim proportions tat
it is kept within the four and q ha''
yards allowed by the Government, ana
they also say that the top of tn" -rlr'
is of taffeta or satin. which is covered
at the back and sides by the lone coat
and by that ubiquitous apron waist
coat which spreads itself between me
| fronts OF the coat and reaches ha'
| way between waist and knees
France is making these coats IN
broad, mosaic design. Blocks OF lilac"
and white are placed against c1cn
other, and the collars and 0lnIS go NJ
American sealskin.
The long waistCoat which in 'ta'
is sometimes made exactly like ~
apron. ia OF linen, pongee, t!aS",''
satin and tinted muslin Paris l. 10
| lighted over these apron NaiSt.oT'
made NJ pale pink, mauve, Nel'o7'
Joffre blue and violet orGandy or Lawn
They are sometimes fastened down 'f'
front with ting white buttons, 3-'
usually they do not present any break
| in the front line. They are more be-
! coming and novelsthis wayk
The sun., 1918-07-14

at the end Of the time in a dark
sleeved blouse than in a light one.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Direct from China comes a consign-
ment of grass linen in pink and white.
1t is thirty-four inches wide and sells
FOR sl.oo yard. 1t will lend itself to
very effective summer frocks. as it
possesses the crispness SO much to be
desired this season when dfgandy
frocks set the lead for warm weather
wear.
The sun., 1918-07-14

T~ROM time out of mind when
r knights have sung the praise
- OF my lady fair" they have
meant my lady beautiful" And since |
The sun., 1918-07-14

A very effective hat worn recently
by a we'll dressed young woman was
made of navy blue Georgette crepe.
Over it was stretched a network OF
deep purple fringe. The junctures of
the different strands OF fringe were
emphasized with a small dull brown
wooden bead.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Lace is still much used in fine lin
Eerie, and the finest of real filet is used
with charming effect. 1t wears well.
too. and in these days when we try to
BUY with. wisdom we think bit about
the durability of our lingerie.
The sun., 1918-07-14

On some of the new suits pockets
are emphasized with a band OF fur at
the top. and on some OF the silk
frocks they are baglike in shape and
size. or course the new calico frocks
have pockets, some OF them. but they
are quite prim and flat. bound off, as
oefits calico pockets. with bit OF the
same material, cut bias.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Waterproof match safes Tor soldiers
are sold for "a cents, in silver finish.
Other novelties for the men in uni
form include trench lighters, in ster-
ling silver for s&25, and lockets with
place for photograph at ga.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Where are our new blouses going to
bpen? Nobody knows. OF course, but
Just now there is a tendency toward
acceptance of the blouse that opens
At The side.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Some OF the new all enveloping
capes OF silk jersey are lined with silk
in vivid contrasting color. Cerise is
used, for instance, in a cape Of biscuit
color. orange-yellow in one of gray.
and green lining in a cape Of dark
blue.
The sun., 1918-07-14

for women that they break and grow
ugly in their youth.
But even If you still cling TO the
The sun., 1918-07-14

A calendar that many persons who
constantly wish to be reminded OF
their patriotism might like shows the
Star Spanged Banner, attractively
printed in little red, white and blue
frame, above the conventional calen-
dar leaves.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Soft sports hats of ribbon in all the
becoming shades of blue. rose. green
and yellow are worn at beach and
country summer places.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Fine pin tucks are a noticeable fea-
ture Of some OF the cloth coats that
are a part of two-piece suits Of fine
fabric.
The sun., 1918-07-14

japanese. grass rugs are more and
more tempting, for they are made in
heavy. soft quality and in charming
designs-with patterns OF soft green
or brown on their yellowish ground
They are not expensive, One six by
nine feet costs 50.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Short neglgees of course are fea-
tured. but some Of the very attractive
new rest robes of Georgette and chif-
/. Ton and tulle show long trains. some
times fan shape. sometimes simply
long ends Of the fabric trailing at the
back.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Although some Of the new blouses
blow collars. still most of them
are OF the collarless variety with
q rolling effect at the back. American
women have found this line infinitely
becoming, and they are insisting on
Its continuance with a perseverance
that is really commendable.
The sun., 1918-07-14

Gray and black are a smart combi-
nation in cloth and satin or in silk and
serge. Some touch of color. Of course,
Is needed to emphasize this combina-
ton and give it a bit of dash. Oriental
embroidery. in silk or beads is a touch
used sometimes by the discriminating
dressmaker.
Evening star., 1918-08-23
s. HERBERT GIEsY, Attorney.

IN THE SUPREME COURT OF THE DIS
trict of Columbia.-Ernest G. Walker vs..
Richard T. Queen and BENJAMIN Pollard. or. IL
ees-In Equity 35955. Docket 77.-The object
Of this snit is to establish Of record q good,
perfect and indefeasible fee simple title In
the complainant by adverse possession to lot
''A' in Benjamin Pollard's subdivision Of
original lot in square $40, as per plat re-
corded In Liber n. K, folio H. of the rec
ords Of the office of the surveyor of the Dis
trict of Columbia and contained within the
following metes and bounds: Beginning at
the southwest corner Of said square and run
ming thence east on the north line Of North
d street ~ as feet to the the southeast corner of
foot-wide alley; thence west 22.2J feet to the
east line of 3rd street west. and thence south
to the point Of beginning, known as the Van
dyke apartment house, premises Nos. 401 and
407 3rd street northwest. Washington, d, c.
On motion of the complainant, 1t is this 1lth
day of June AID. 1918, ordered that the de-.
PENDANTS. Richard 7. Queen and Benjamin
Pollard. cause their appearance to be entered
herein on or before the fortieth day. exclusive
of Sundays and legal holidays. occurring after
the day Of the first publication Of this order
and alienees Of such of said defendants as may
be dead, II any. and any other person or persons
claiming by, through or under any or either
of said heirs. devisees or alienees. any right
or title adverse to the complainant In and to
said real estate, cause their appearance to be
entered herein on or before the first rule day
occurring three months after the date Of the
nrst publication of this order. otherwise tho
cause will be proceeded with in case Of
default: Provided. copy of this order be
published for three months, once a week for
and twice in each of the two successive
months, in the Washington Law Reporter and
rhe Evening Star before said days. By the
court + FL L sippoYs YsSs Ss:ties es., sseaI, rrss
CUNNINGHAM. Assistant Clerk.
1eaA n AH12, 19,ss140 e
Evening star., 1918-08-23
THos. J. OWEN & SON. AUcT1oNEERs.
TRUSTEES SALE OF VALUABLE IMPRov.
ED REAL ESTATE. CONSISTING OF
BRICK RESIDENCE AND SHOP KNOWN
AZ ~ pREMIsEs g s2! AND SeS H STREET

TRUSTEES SALE OF VALUABLE IMPRov.
ED REAL EsTATE. coNsIsrlNG or
AS PREMISES 627 AND sc9 H STREET
NORTHWEST. WARRINGTON. D. c.
Whereas. default having been made in the
the hereinafter described land and premises
BY q certain deed of trust bearing date Janu-
,,ry I. 1904 and recorded January 9. 1905. in
land records Of the District Of Columbia. and
at the written request of the holder Of the
notes secured By said deed Of trust. the un.
defsfgned. the trustee named In said deed Of
trust. will offer for sale under the provisions
thereof at public auction; In front Of tn.
Tapf DAY or ,s IA
the following described land and premises. with
the improvements, easements, rights, ways
and lying in the city Of washington, District
one (eIl and tvenfy-tvo (22j. in Hesry and
Sersd Six tS. IN square numbered Cd four @ hum hum
dred and hfty-three t45S). as per plat recorded
in the once Of the surveyor for the District of
and the west 6ve feet six inches front By the
full depth thereof Of original lot numbered
i've t5). in said square numbered four hun
Terms Of sale: one-third n.3) Of the pur.
ehase price in cash. Of which deposit of
$500 must be made with the trustee at time
purchaser. payable in one and two years after
the date Of sale. with interest at the rate
Of six per cent Per annum. and payable semi
annually, secured by deed of trust the
property sold, or all cssh. at the option oi
The purchaser. The terms Of sale TO be com.
piled with within ten days from date Of sale
In default Of which the property will be re.
sold at the risk and cost Of the defaulting pur.
claser, after Ave days readvertiscment in some
newspaper published In Washington. D. @. All
convcyaneing. title examination. revenue
stamps and recording at the expense Of the
Union TRUST COMPANY OF THE DISTRICT
By GEO. e. FLEMING.
Second Vice President.
(seal.) Attest:
EDWARD L. HILLYER. Secretary.
Evening star., 1918-08-23
Farmers and Sugar Rations.
the Editor Of The Star.

To the Editor Of The Star.
A new angle of the hardships pro-
duced by the food administrations or
der concerning the consumption Of
sugar was pointed out to me the 9TH
er day by an old virginia farmer. The
order states that but two pounds shall
be issued to each person per month.
This ruling applies to every one alike.
Now, the city people, surrounded by
confectionery stores anu bakeries.
where they may obtain candies. cakes
pounds as the residents of the country.
who, removed from these convent
ences. have to depend entirely upon
their own cooking. Does this seem
quite fair? I think not. and believe
that when the question is fully con-
sidered justice will give heed to their
demands and thus balance the scale9
G. A. HOWARD
Evening star., 1918-08-23
rHos. J. OWEN 4 SON. AucrIoNEERs.

EINb FAciNG rib AGEhs Ii1isesroN s. o Rp
NEAR CONGRESS HEIGHTS. THE
TRACT LAYS HIGH AND IS BEAuTI-
FULLY WOODED.
BY virtue Of certain deed Of tFusr recorded
records of the District of Columbia. and at
the request of the party secured thereby. the
Undersigned trustees will sell at public auction,
In front of the premises. SATURDAY AFTER
NOON, AT -FOUR O'CLOCK. SEPTEMBER
FouRTEENTH. 1918. the following described
Washington. District Of Columbis. known and
DISTINGUISHED as part Of tract of land known as
"Agincourt Farm" being part Of two larger
tracts known as Pasture and Clean
ings," beginning for the came at n stake at
the northeast corner Of q tract of land owned
line N. 56 degrees l3 minutes W. 1888; Is feet
to the Livingston road. thence with the Lv.
ingston road N. IL degrees 46 minutes +. feet,
thence N. % degrees Al minutes E. 1921 feet.
thence leaving the road and running 8. SO
degrees 1a minutes e; 1899. 8! fsss to stake:
to the place Of beginning. Containing Eve and
one-half (5hl acres.
Terms Of sale: One-half cash. balance in two
equal installments, payable In one and two
years, with interest at per cent. payable
serni-annuaily. A deposit of 5000 will be re-
recording, revenue stamps. ETC., at the cost Of
the purchaser. Terms Of sale to Be complied
with within Is days from day OF sale, other
wise the trustees reserve the right to resell the
property at the risk and cost Of the defaultinE
purchaser after days advertisement Of such
CHARLES A. RHODES.
WILLIAM P. MCDOWELL.
au2o. 2. q. 81. .se3. .6.s. 10, 1918 Trustees
Evening star., 1918-08-23
SYLVAN THEATER PROGRAM.
Mary Pickford Film to Be Shown
and Marine Band to Play.

A section of the United States Ma
rine Band is to play at the Sylvan
Theater. southeast of the Monument
tonight, preceding the open-air sing
ing and motion pictures.
The concert is to begin at 7So
O'clock. At 8 o'clock program OF
community singing is to be directed
BY Prof. Peter w. Dykema of the Dis
trict of Columbia War Camp Com
munity Service. The film play for to-
night is ''The Little American" fea-
turing Mary Pickford. -
To reach the Sylvan Theater take
cars going south on 18th street and
get OF cars at the bureau Of engraving
and printing.
Evening star., 1918-08-23
R. PRESTON sHEALEY. Attorney.

SUPREME COURT OF THE DISTRICT OF
Columbia. Holding Probate Court.-Estate
Of John McCallan. deceased.-No. 24757. Ad-
ministration Docket 57.-Application having
been made herein for probate of the last will
and testament of said deceased and for letters
testsmentary on said estate BY Charles W.
Floeekher. 4 is ordered this 7th day Of Au,
McCallan, Thomas McCallan and James Long.
and all others concerned appear in said court
1918. at 10 o'clock am. to show cause why
such application should not be granted. Let
notice hereof be published in the Washing
Law Reporter and The Evening Star once in
each of three successive weeks before the re-
turn day herein mentioned. the first publica-
tion to be not less than thirty days before said
return day. WILLIAM HITZ, Justice. (Seal. J
Attest: VIM. CLARK TAYLOR, Deputy Reg
lister of Wills for the District of Columbia,
Clerk of the Probate Court. aus, 1923