The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-14
BY ALICE ZlSKA SNYDER.

PARIS, June l3.
A GEES ago, before the world grew
"a drunk on O'0od'a'' and war
Paris in June spelled Paradise.
That was the month when the So
cial season reached its height, when
the Bots and Its various restaurants
were crowded with the smart set, all
bent on one great pursuit-pleasure,
| Ten. at the races OF Auteuil and
Longchamps. with the Grand Prix as
a spectacular climax, lovely women
were as thick as leaves in Vallom-
/ brosa. And as for wonderful frocks
they shone in all their splendor in
this setting OF elegance and luxury.
In those June days Paris was in It's
| full effervescence. after which il set
| tied down to the calm aud quiet OF
midsummer. II was the last burst Of
| fireworks before the scattering to the
fashionable places and the continental
watering places for the much needed
| yearly cure.
What a contrast to the Paris Of to-
| day with its shattered houses and
apa rtments and its almost deserted
streets! So many people, fortunate in
still being able to crafty their whims
have suddenly discovered within
themselves taste for the country!
However. It would he unjust to attach
to this springs hurried exodus more
Importance than II really deserves.
| Many women who for years have
given all their time to nursing the
wounded soldiers remain in town
faithful to their calling of mercy;
others to their duties as mistress of a
home, and still another class is true
to a certain spirit OF coquetry which
forbids precipitate departure from
Paris and bids them to act Just as
though nothing untoward had come
into their lives.
In sober Elegance.
These are the mondaines one still
meets in the Bois every fine morning
| dressed with the sober elegance that
reflects the present seriousness OF the
military situation. A thousand charm.
| ing details set off the simplicity OF
their frocks.
| Nothing could be more alluring thar
the fine white line used by Jenny or
her black and navy frocks, made b,
setting dozens of tiny mother of pear
| buttons so close together that they
overlap. Doucet lightens the severity
of his gabardine chemise dresses by
the white organdy collar, which crosses
in revers over the chest and passing
around the waist Is knotted loosely a
the back or at one side.
On other equally simple yet modisl
frocks the original note Is struck by {
necklace Of carved wooden beads al
ternating with small medallions o
blue porcelain, with pompons OF Chi
nese blue to finish them at the ends
Thus with a mere trfie the sombre
ness OF ones garb is prevented from
lapsing into austere severity.
Despite this restraint practised b,
some Of the big couturiers there ar,
others who are prone to swing int
exaggerations. Every one will agre,
that nothing Is more attractive than
pretty ankle glimpsed through I
transparent tulle skirt. but such frivol
ity Is misplaced in this moment whei
thousands of hearts are torn by agon.
and anguish. These things would no
he out of place in the privacy OF one
home. but II does seem unnecessary t
carry such styles into tie street. wher
strangers Judge France and the Frencl
solely by what they see around them
II these small nothings form almos
Ia
spring dresses, others. on the con
trary, are rich with embroidery
Chanel Is responsible for this mode