Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-01-18

This suit protects from the cold and
conserves wool. The short skirt, which
Is of beige-coIored wool, extends to the
bust and is met by deep yoke and
sleeves of chiffon. The veiveteen coat
has collar and cuffs of peItry and huge
pockets made from pieces that were
left from the skirt.
was useless to appeal to women to
save wool in the building of their
clothes, under the present commercial
circumstances of clothes selling. The
great majority of women buy their
clothes. They do not make them at
home. They buy what they can get,
and they do not know the amount of
material contained in a garment.
Therefore, the government made its
appeal for cooperation in the. con-
seryatiOn Of wool to those who make
and design women's garments. At
this meeting 1t was resolved and rules
were formulated that no man or wOm-
an In America would use over Az
yards of wool in any costume, and
less, if possible.
The response to these rules was
given not only by the dressmakers,
but by the manufacturers, the mill
people, the ready-to-wear department
stores and private dressmakers. The
decision was far-reaching. 1t is now
up to the women of America to carry
out for the government q continued
process Of conservation in wool. 1t
will not be hardship. One will not
have to face the chasms of doubt and
despair that opened up with the con-
servation of food. The government
does not want a standardized uniform
for women, such as hosts of unwise
but well meaning women advisers
have offered as a solution Of the
clothes question.
All that the women of the country
are asked to do is not to make a gown
that has over Az yards of wool in it,
and it Is the appeal of the government
that woman should refuse to buy
from tailor, and a retailer should re-
fuse to buy from a manufacturer, gar
ments that have been made in defiance
of this urgent appeal.
Long Jackets to Go.
The American tailOrs and manufac-
turers Of ready-to-wear clothing will
cut out the long jacket for women
when 1t is made Of wool, no matter
how light the weave; they will elm.
mate fullness in the skirt and cut it
as short as decency will permit.
Three and half yards of wool Is
good average measurement for the
majority of women, but the govern
ment will look kindly upon those re-
tailers and dressmakerS who must
deal with large and stout customers,
and even here it is believed that in
dividuality Of design and a plentiful
use of other materials, rather than
wool, will produce a gown of charm
and satisfaction.
The slim silhouette will be accepted
between Hudson Bay and Palm Beach
and then crosswise. The woman who
cries out against narrow skirt either
because of tradition or an artistic per-
ception Of what her figure needs, need
not sit in the corner and wall and
gnash her teeth. All she has to do Is
to eliminate wool from her gown or
suit to combine the governmental
measure of wool with another ma
terial.
Coming, as the reform does, at the
hour when spring and summer fash
ions are being conceived, the necessity
for being careful with worsted ma
terial brings less hardship than If the
reform had been launched last July
1t is true that the great mass of people
who do not live in the South and
Southwest buy vast quantity of light
weight worsted clothes for February
March and April; but they are quite