davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
True, There Are
Sober Clothes

Mind you, there is no disposition shown by
the French designers, as they have expressed
their genius in the new clothes, to omit all the
fabrics that are sensible and economical. Black
satn, blue serge, gray jersey cloth and several
shades Of gabardine are ruling street cos
tumery.
Metal tissues and laces are lavishly used for
the afternoon and the evening, but they are
sooered by miles Of chiffon. Sturdy crepe de
cane, which looks fragile and is not, is offered
IN the smartest gowns for the street.
There are one-p piece frocks as well suits,
and capes have superseded top coats. Elabo-
rate and expensive embroidery has given way
!" ornamentation by means Of wool or twine,
anc intricate machine stitching is abandoned
IN favor Of bits of applied material, straight
lows OF military braid or folds Of corded satin.
Lace is used as though Belgium had been
feinstated and every one of the lace weavers
working overtime. Flounces, capes, sleeves
and panels Of lace are dropped on narrow, slim
endersfps Of satin
Satin and serge are combined for those who
want 70 wear frock for the next six months
"'hout feeling unconfortably warm or cold.
"aIstcoats, the styles Of which were drawn
rom all the epochs preceding this one, are used
~ coats, which gives the economical woman
sasnce 70 refurbsh her last years suit and
.eei herself quite in the picture. The French
1sa'gners knew that they were offering a sop
Inc economists in promoting this accessory.
sturdy pique has been revived for those who
!" nos care 70 invest in handkerchief linen,
rsf'Shaole batiste or expensive Powered voie
+asse suits and frocks Of pique are trimmed
I'm velvet, al in older days, and all the dyes
as france has manufactured for her own
S "aYe been brought 10 bear upon white and
ss@m iace IN order to make harmonious COS
..aass; and this trick again gives the woman
= ''ender means chance to look exceedingly
ss lar through the medium Of dipping yellow
"'s in a small quantity of reliable dye
1@s's mas gent over multiple number OF
III straight jackets, with fronts that do not
.' and In the space between is displayed
.I.nsa front with turnover collar and a
sssa 'ouiard cravat This little front Is
ts'sa INTO the coat, and thereby saves one
.'A using whole shirtwaist, With its accom-
Ssnying laundry bil
4hsfe 10 no dlsputing the fact that French
.'ash have yielded 10 the American desire &,
- - wort skirts cr. the street md the zkjrtx
s1sN ~ these new clothes are both narrow
B esOrk The women who appeared on the
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07

ion that has been acceptable for four years,
and think yourself part and parcel of this new
movement.
Tulle is not used in that way. 1t does not
go over the shoulders. 1t is made into volumi-
nous sleeves; it is wrapped about the waist or
the hips and forms hustle bow at the side or
back; it is tied straight around the neck, with
a huge bow at the back or under the chin, IL
the face can stand it; it is made into bat-like
cape and attached to the shoulders and arms
with jet bracelets; it makes no pretence Of
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07

One designer took it into her head to omit
white collars and as substitute tulle
wrapped about the neck and tied in bow
This fashion is already considered quite smart
over here. In restaurants, for luncheons and
for any affair where the hat is retained the
tulle which covers it forms this collar, and
sometimes drops in long ends from the nape Of
the neck to the knees.
Now don't jump to the conclusion that you
can pick up two three yards of colored
zaaline. put it over your shoulders in the fash.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
Bernard's
Short Coat

To see what a noted Paris tailor can do
with the Eton jacket to make it different from
the mannish garment which we accented IN
the early winter, one has only to glance at
this sketch
This suit has been brought to America and
cordially received. 1t is built of blue serge
black silk braid and black satin. The skirt is
of the satin, narrow and slim, with loose panels
of braided blue serge at each side. This move
ment of skirts is SO dominant throughout all
the new fashions that it is well to absorb it in
the mind. The heavy weight of the braid
keeps the serge in place, and one may use
colored lining, if it is considered desirable.
The lining on these panels is black, which is in
the best taste.
The short jacket is cut up in front, after
the manner of the Directoire coats and it
drops down to the hips at sides and back The
material is blue serge, and the satin Of the
skirt is introduced into collar, cuffs and waist
coat, which covers the waistlne. Against the
black surface is bold, primitive embroidery
in Natter blue wool.
By the way, the jacket is slightly shorter in
the back than at the sides, in order that it
may display hustle bow of black satin which
is attached to the skirt.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
Many Varieties
of Ribbon

There are even ribbons with woolen en-
brodery, which we are assured are made from
odds and ends of threads in order not to break
the conservation method, and which will re-
place bands of woollen fabric.
There are broad ribbons of gold and silver.
OF black touched with jet, of cream and oyster
colored satin stamped with pompadour designs:
there are Roman stripes and there are color
ings in soft taffeta ribbons which we have
rarely seen before this season.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
The Effect Of Amer

over such brilliant, alluring, rich
- clothes? 1t is because American
,onev has burst upon her with such force that
,he has gone up in a balloon, figuratively
speaking
France settled herself down for demure
clothes on the day of the war and has kept to
;his contract with herself, compelling the rest
If the world to dress likewise; but in the au-
nmn of 1917 there burst upon her astonished
vision the vanguard of America. They were
not commercial buyers; they were not cosmo-
ulitan nultimilionaires who aped the French
woman They were the true representatives
If country whose yastness and resources
France had only guessed at. Boys in blue
flannel sailor suits had bank accounts of ten
thousand dollars each; women in Red Cross
uniforms could afford five hundred dollars per
ooyn: if they wished, privates in khaki paid
their bills without locking at their change:
canteen workers hid under their collars strings
Of pearls worth fifty thousand dollars. All
these Americans laughed and went to the thea
tre and ordered expensive dinners and jokea
with the mldlnettes.
The stream Of people and money kept pour
ing in Each week it was doubled. When
the French houses for holiday gifts to be sent
to America. Nobody seemed to care what was
spent. So much for that picture.
Now for It's effect on the French mind, and
especially on The minds of the designers, who
catch at every straw for inspiration.
This wealth, this gayety, this extravaganza,
this optimism, caught France up in a swirl o.
hope and happiness. The people saw victory,
the poor saw riches, the depressed saw gayety,
and we have the result in the clothes of March.
Chenise Robe
for Evening
Among the new evening gowns from France
this spring the twelfth century tunic is as FIRE.
quently seen as is the street gowns, but the
effect Of the two is strongly differentiated. For
the evening the designers use narrow, slim,
primitive slip of satin or metallic cloth, the
latter preferred. Over this slip drops much
wider, more volurlinous. transparent robe. 4
is cut ike chemise; it has a half low decol-
letage the sleeves usually cover the entire
arm;but are cut to fall half foot away from
it, and the entire effect is one of exquisite
yelling.
Doucet does this in the most brilliant man
ner, ard he shows his competitors something
in tie way Of undersl.p. making q corselet
and then short skirt Of soft gold tissue, which
gives far more graceful, undulating move
ment Of the body when it is seen beneath the
transparent chemise.
There are chemise gowns Of rare lace, sell
dom IN white, but in ivory tints and also in
cloudy gray. These are dropped over slim
underslip Of tissue, silver and steel as well as
gold, and the note OF color is given by an ex-
traordnary sash It may be Of Chinese blue
iaFeta, Of splendid Chinese brocade, Of deep
gold and black brocaded ribbon, and one end
Of it always trails down the back panel and
adds to the br;lliancy Of the short train.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
Ribbon to Piay a
Brilliant Role

When one caught glimpses of the magnif-
cence of the new ribbons. it did not take de-
tectlve's mind to realize that they were made
Tor serious purpose, that they were not
turned out merely to dutter in holiday array
from gowns and hats. No class of industrial
workers would spend so much time upon an
article Of commerce unless there was to be a
broad demand for it.
At the beginning of last winter the ribbons
OF the world began to take on new and
serious Importance. They went back to the
days when artists of parts put their skill and
inspiration into these bands of fabric Instead
of being just pink, blue and red ribbons. they
became backgrounds for superb ornamental
ton. for magnificence of design and treatment.
They were gold and silver, they were en-
broidered, they were stamped with vivid flow
ers. They went so far above the average and
climbed so high on the pinnacle of artistic
merit that those who studied fabrics realized
that they would be substituted for more COM
monplace fabrics, as we'll as for new ma
terials.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
A Heavy Weave of Silk JERSEY
Substitute for Woollen

Rodler is the man who invents fabrics for
the civilized world
therefore, when it was known that Rodier
had put out superior and durable weave of
SILK jersey that would replace woolen fabrics
the world received the news with the interest it
deserved.
The FrencNare using silk jersey to conserve
wool. America will do the same. The Council
OF National Defense only asked the American
dressmakers to use not more than four and
half yards of woollen fabric in a costume but
we have done much better than that since the
request was made. There gowns that are
made from yard and a half of wool. and
there are hundreds of frocks that haven't any
wool at all, except touch of embroidery.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07

on aris Styles

is OF tulle with suspenders of satin. There Is
a glrdie Of the same material which ross
through slit IN the bodice and ends in sash
weighted with jet. The sleeves are made from
short caps of jet, from which flow irregular
widths of black tulle
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07

street in them without leggings or high shoes
have created unpleasant criticism, which should
compel them to change their style.
The smart run Logging or a high
coth-top boot we'll up under the hem of these
short skirts, and the effect is military and
pleasing. But at the very moment that we are
accepting with enthusiasm this continued style
of short and narrow garments, the prophets
say that the real French skirts are growing
longer. And the smart American designers
say the same. They are making the garments
slim, without using an inch of surplus ma
terlal, but they are dropping them to the
ankles, emitting the leggings and the high
boots, and coming back to the fat-heeled pumps
with broad ribbon bows across the vamp.
Three four of the best houses in New
York emphasize these skirts, and those who
are tired of the brevity Of the skirts we have
worn for years are accepting this new type Of
garment with more than the usual enthusiasm
If it had fulness it would be impossible for
street usage, but it's narrowness and the slight
bias line at the sides, that comes from the ma
terial being pulled backward and upward, make
it a pleasing picture the street and an artis-
tic contrast to the prevailing garment.
Miles of
Tulle
Even when France starts out to be demure
she changes her mind and gets a little fling
of gayety into the most sombre gown. For ex-
ample, she makes a black satin restaurant
frock in the style of the eleventh century, with
the long chemise, the slight girdling about the
hips and the half-low decolletage. Well and
good But she is weary Of the black surface
by the time she gets to the armholes and the
neckine, she swings in pair Of floating
Chinese sleeves Of jade green tulle edged with
let, and she winds a narrow scarf Of tulle
once around the neck, pulls it's fulness up over
the chin and weights it's ends with jet tasse!s
When green isn't used, kings blue or wine
color is chosen.
Every French designer used what she could
ef colored tulle There must have been COM
petition over there to who could reduce the
amount Of tulle in France most quickly.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-07
Gown of
Gold Ribbon

Germaine, Of Paris, has sent to this country
a most successful gown made from broad rib
bons OF gold and black brocade. The tight
underslip is of golden yellow tissue, soft and
yielding to the movements of the body. The
top skirt is of black tulle slightly gathered to
the wastine, but held down to the figure SO
that it will not flare out. by means of these
gold and black ribbons that hang from the
slightly high-waisted bodice to the ankles. The
bodice is made of the ribbons going around the
figure, and over each shoulder is narrow
plain gold ribbon holding shoulder pieces of
fesh-colored tulle. Attached to each gold
band is scarf of black tulle that hangs over
the front and back of the figure and floats
away over the arms.
This gown is copied in all black for those
who do not care to indulge in the brilliancy Of
the gold. 1t shows the Spanish influence, and
it has an amazing grace
The arran cement Of the straps on the shoul
ders should be called to the attention Of those
who are uncertain about the arran cement of
the long tulle drapery that drops from over
the arms this season. AS you notice in the
sketch, the straps are placed we'll forward
over the neck, and the tight-itting flesh tulle
that goes under and over the arms holds the
bodice securely in place and allows the tue
sleeves to be lightly attached to the top of the
shoulder, where they will not feel any of the
strain of the lifted arms
Evening journal., 1918-07-23

Sergeat Charles Conneley OF Los
Angeles, Cal. Is our kind OF a fight
er. lie never gets enough OF II until
the final victory Is won. Last Noyem-
Der Sergeant Conneley went "oyci
there TO give the HUN a taste OF u. S,
A. fighting. That means he got Into
khaki almost as soon as the United
States got into the war.
A HUN shell sent him back home,
shrapnel hit him In The eye.
But I'm going back" he said after
he'd been in the old L. ;. A. a few days.
"They need me over there. II this eye
ever gets well I'm going back with a
gun after the HUN. II Uncle sam won't
let me get back into the trenches with
a gun, why, III go with the Y. NJ. c. A.
OF Red Cross and do what I can. I'll
pay my own way II I'm not accepted
back into the service. They can't keep
me from going back. just as soon as
that eye OF mine gets over the shock
OF having stopped a piece OF shrapnel.
Attaboy, Charles.
Gee, whizl Can you wonder why the
kaisers quaklng In his onnery boots
every time he thinks Of several million
Yanks like Sergeant Conneley being let
loose on him?
Evening journal., 1918-07-23

week, and visitors VIII find many o.
the old familiar landscape lines oblit-
Grated by new rows OF tents and cook
houses. The tents In some sections are
even encroachlng on the parade
grounds as the camp quartermaster's
department is completing its plans to
provide adequate shelter for the big
gest population ever quartered here.
The first OF the new quota arrived
yesterday and included details from
Delaware and some few hundred men
from North Jersey. They were assigned
20 the First Battalion. The majority
Of men who arrived in the June quota
have already been assigned TO line regi-
ments Of the S7th Division, or to spe-
clal units. The seth Pioneers now hav-
ing its full war strength. the Delaware
men Of the new draft will have an op-
portunity TO get into other organiza-
tions.
First Lieutenant Irwin w Goth, who
has been assisting Captain C. ]. Kali
berer, commandant OF the camp school
for bakers and cooks, has been assigned
by the War Department to Camp Nler-
rift to establish a school for bakers
and cooks going into overseas service.
In order that new men may learn the
importance Of salutlng properly and its
effect upon the good morale OF the
army, Major General Scott has renewed
the order that all organization COM
manders shall devote IS minutes day,
until further notice, 20 the practice.
Ice cream manufacturers lost out yes
terday in a battle with appetites OF
Camp Dix soldiers and visitors and
for several hours, with the mercury
sizzling around 100 degrees in the
shade, the big cantonment faced a real
ice cream famine. But when close to
$1,000 men came In from a days work
in the trenches, on the parade ground
or at the range, every mothers son OF
them seemed TO have his mouth set for
ice cream and before the rush on the
regimental canteens was ten minutes
old. the vanguard had cleaned up every
plate OF the frozen dainty.
Canteen managers sent hurry calls 70
the manufacturers TO rush in fresh SUD-
plies. but even with auto trucks work.
ing in relays, TAPS" sounded before
the camp had been fed-up on its favor
ite summer dish.
Evening journal., 1918-07-23
PICK ATHLETES FOR
SIGNAL BATTALION
Camp Dix Men Get Rigid
Training for Mercury
Boys"
s9TH NOW IS AT
FULL WAR STRENGTH

CAMP DIX, Wrightstown, n. j., July
q3.-New Jersey recruits selected TO I'LL
the ranks OF the 3i2th Signal Battalion
OF the s7th Division, are now getting
plenty Of action in their training as
Mercury Boys" Practice work In
every branch OF signaling is being taken
up and every member is becoming pro-
flcient in at least two methods OF get
ting q message through, while I'm addi-
tion to his other accomplishments at
signaling, each signalman must be
ready. in a crisis, to dash through an
enemy barrage on foot IL other lines Of
communication are broken.
Picked athletes will form the nucleus
OF this branch Of the liaison work. The
runners are learning to do speedy work
over rough ground and, except for the
actual bursting OF shells around them,
will be pretty well acquainted with
their Job when they leave the camp
for overseas duty. Each runner will be
instructed also as a field telegraph Op-
orator. In case a regular telegrapher
is put out Of action he can at once MI
the gap. and when the lines are cut he,
with his athletic comrades, VIII main
tain nullidl llut VI communication
between the front line and division or
brigade headquarters.
The battalion is learning the prlnci-
pie Of pigeon-1ying in getting COM
munications through. Jerseymen who
have had experience in pigeon-raising
are especially desired for this branch.
A pigeon cote has been established near
the battalion headquarters and these
birds are being used to bring in mes
sages from the rifle and artillery ranges
and other distant sections Of the reser-
walton. The pigeon-training system in
use by the French at the front is being
developed and It is the pigeons OF their
French or English allies that the
American signalmen will use "over
there" Neither pigeons nor dogs for
liaison work will be taken from this
country for fear OF introducing disease
among the invaluable stock Of trained
birds and animals now in service.
Recruit sections Of depot brigade bat
talions are being rapidly extended with
more tentage to make room for the
1900 men Of the July draft, due this
Evening journal., 1918-07-23
ENGLISH "WAACS" TO
WEAR BLUE ARMLET

BY Newspaper Enterprise Association.
LONDON, July 23-The 'Waacs" have
adopted a blue armlet bearing the let
ters w. A. A. c., 10 distinguish them
selves from the many other women or
ganizatlons with uniforms similar 10
theirs. The craze for women's uni
forms is growing.
Evening journal., 1918-07-23

Real estate investments. selling and
buying OF farm lands will be prospered
through the Wan. Ads during the COM
ing week
The Corpus Christi caller. [volume] (Corpus Christi, Tex.) 1918-1987, 1918-07-16
TERRIBLY SWOLLEN
suffering Described Az Torture
Relieved by Black Draught.

Rossville, Ga. Mrs Kate Lee Able, Of
his place, writes My husband is an
engineer, and once while lifting, he in
Mrcd himself with piece OF heavy ma
.hinery, across the abdomen lie was
50 sore he could not bear to press on
himself al al, on chest or abdomen lie
weighed l65 lbs, and Tell off anlH he
weighed ITO lbs, in two weeks.
lie became oon6iipated and II looked
ike he would die. We had three diiiereai
doctors, yea with ali their medicine, his
bowels failed 10 act. lie would turn up
ien-eent bottle ol castor oil and drink
Il two or three days ~ succession. Iie
did this yet without result. We becamc
desperate, he suffered so. He was swoi-
len terribly He told me his suffering
could only be described as torture.
sent and bought Thediord's Black
Draughl made him take big dose.
md when il began 10 act he tainted, he
vas In such misery, but he got relief and
begal 10 mend at once. lie got well,
and we both ieel he owes his lie 10
ThedioTc's Black Draushi."
Thediord's Black Draughi win help YOU
70 keep tit, ready for the days work
Try Il! NC-W
The Corpus Christi caller. [volume] (Corpus Christi, Tex.) 1918-1987, 1918-07-16
1t. W. VERNON BOOTH OF
u. S. FLYING CORPS DIES

PARIS JUS 10 Lioutcu1nt w Nrr-
um Booth Jr. vi lhe American fNmg
corps has died Ii scottish hospital
Ntlt tNe 'front.' from Injuries received
in bomb explosion when %" WIS
forced % land after am aerial combat
over iho German lines. liis iulW3 mes
ccstitAied The umuutation ~ a leg lie
WAS buried With ian military huuors.
lieutenant Doolh WAS born in Dhi-
caen boz 1859 tbo son of w Vernon
Booth ana Helen T.. Booth who is 81
sistof of Mrs. rhup -. Armour After
gfudlution at Harvard in lNiA nc
studied mw m SOW york.
List Aprl Lieutenant Booth WAS
married be- Paris tp Miss Ethel Forgau
lfufhier OF David " forfan chic
i.lt0 fiuuuriDf
The Corpus Christi caller. [volume] (Corpus Christi, Tex.) 1918-1987, 1918-07-16
Guy Employs Great Story "ovcr the
Top az the Liberty Theatre
July 26th and 9th

rs Voice flom the trenches" Beg ihc
Nuf ~tfntAnf EmpeNs EifIf stort
-tfFsr thr Iau' haas hefn described
Nf cfiiirs ASA drama WITH Dog Fight
ur sergeant iu thN yery role he cnuct-
0l ln fuo irenlnfs 80 Will Dee Shown
lHiN goth an1 eiih ai ne Liberty
Tne soldler-author with this play
hoide fn miffo up i0 hnman nature
ns ne iouud % BOB the Enslish private
soldier. iiH STONY viii appeal % the
t0ung Hnd Old AlihD SO Hll WHO love
uathue and himor great deeds Hnd
manly mon
Tho Sen York rimoa u comment
inN ar ne NucY pNof me Top said
prospective soldiers Dn learn here
prUttN nfuiN lua Mhu rs awaiting
them Rs both incident and sers,iou
Nhil th'f tnies ai home VII hF
acarf,rrd
pike thp bonk This Nnagaph drama
IS allel Wiih anee doits Tint wil hrinH
fas fHie ono laughter Empes irvN's
thIf NU In fne trenches iA not 40
aluom ans means lle sayst
Na a not pink ira. hu' in O
Worth WNic cause liisr ouae mud rats.
epotir. ehells Wounds or detin itsrii
al far uufWn4Usl hN tht doru aDnHo
of satisfaction lei' hf tne man Who
dnr. NIs hlI fh,re is one thinI ui'
NhueUti.sa iaa4at HH thai miehl holp
fH. h who mH hHfc to ro ~ Is
une HIfiUluatiun iF ur WORSE tnNn
In Inl Ni fnr uAu .tiUtr Nin, MDnDt 3
NUW Na Uofil ever fil his Iun Mten
fID finr IomUs ho riatf tu inO uDHH
siar ap Had n aud w nlpfsrt'
ta Nua nnN nwcn nuNf DHalt INln ND
.ntI. .fnlel le 1915 Die nespun. INilif os.
The Corpus Christi caller. [volume] (Corpus Christi, Tex.) 1918-1987, 1918-07-16
STOCKHOLDERS DIG-UP
TO CLEAR NATIONALS

SIR Louis. July f. The fsp0o0 40
lchteducss OF the - louis Nuiiouls
H4t t4iatI 40 u msc' nu af Ia" stock
nUldors ~ the clgh this aftefrn1ll The
focAaollcrs itid unNl minlsu go
l.ilsc S44.ouO as sli.uNn had pf sFiuuslt
been pledged. Mrs. Helene H. 3rittoM
former owner ut IRE team wil receive
tfn.nH0 oi noe Amulli ulit plTm nt
foi iht club that WAS uurcnasad fut
talO,uuu. she mas nf5 vilues been itln
~ lun ML Iln ImnmmI-
The Corpus Christi caller. [volume] (Corpus Christi, Tex.) 1918-1987, 1918-07-16
JewisH COMEDIAN DIES

HHlDGFpDRr Conn fully 49, joe
Wolch. aged i5. one of the best known
Jewish comedians on the American
stage. died Ia a. muitarlum at Greens
Farms, Nps;p0rl, this morning