davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
ADVISERS TO MEET.

High school faculty athletic ad-
Visers will meet tonight after the
opening OF the baseball schedule at
American League Park.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
NATIONAL LEAGUE.

Yesterdays Games.
st. Louis. 6: Pittsburgh. 3.
New York. 3: Boston, ..
Philadelphia, Z: Brooklyn, >
Cincinnati, ,; Chicago, :.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
PLAYS ALEXANDRIA.

Central High School will go TO
AleSandria TO play the high school
team there today.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
AMERICAN LEAGUE.

Yeaterday'a Games.
Philadelphia, 5: Washington, o.
Boston, /: New York, o.
Cleveland S: 81. Louis. T.
Detroit at Chicago, rain.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
c. U. TO TRAVEL,

Catholic University will Jump over
to Baltimore today to play Mt 81. Jo-
seph's College
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
KIDS WILL PLAY.

western and Business will play
baseball on the west diamond on the
White Lot in the Freshman League.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
where They Play Today.

81. Louis at Chicago.
New York at Brooklyn.
Philadelphia at Boston.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
MEETS sRIARLY HALL

81. Adams plays Brlarly Hall At
PoolsSVills, Nd, todGS.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
RAsERALL IN BRIEF.

ThormAhIen held the Red sox hit,
less for eifht frames, and then lost IN
the ninth, to 0.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Ping Bodis got two of the three hits
collected Of Joe Bush In yesterdays
game at Boston.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Joe GSdeon, in four times up. slam
med Fred Coumbs for two doubleI
and . homer. but the Browns lost
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24
Where They Play TodaZ,

/ WAGhinEton at New York.
Boston at Philadelphia.
Chicago at 81. Louis.
| Cleveland at Detroit.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

BressIsr. q aouthpGw once with the
Mackmsn, defeated the Cubs yester-
day. though touched up for nine
blowb.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Frank Gilhooley's poor hitting with
the Yankees means bench duty for
him soon. with Sam Wick replacing
him, says baseball rumoT.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

The PhIlIies whaled the Dodgers
twiTlers for fifteen hits, including
four doubles and home run. Stock
got two of the two-bRggers.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Al MamAux. former Pirate star,
started for the Dodgers, and was
knocked out Of the box in four in.
nings by the PhillieG.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Brooklyn has yet to win . game
dropping six in q row. II Robinson
Isn't careful, they'll drop his club into
the International League.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Laughing Larry" Doyle got a
double and two singles, drove in three
runs. and scored another for the
Giants-thats all.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Eddie Fosters poor work this
spring is an Irritating surprise to his
many friends in Washington. The
midEets weak hitting and sloppy
fielding has already proved most
costly TO the Grinm0h
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

The Griffmsn have eleven games e
play on the road, beginning today al
New York. At their present gait, they
will return with a total OF six vic
tories and eleven defeats for tn,
young season.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

GriRs Picksa A. Loag Shot In
Race To Land League Peunsnt
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Annual SchOOIBOy Tide ssTiss
Starts AZ Baseball PaEk Today
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1918-04-24

Yesterday Ca
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

morning and afternoon gowns with 1t It is too heavy for ornament for the hot American spring and summer, so few of those gowns were amiably received by the buyers
 One could go on ad infinitum. Gossip,
 information and discussion. if repeated. would fill page or more with interest," ing details of the situation as it has been thresned out by those who have fin colthes.
 But all the straws of discussion lead to two supremely important points Paris feels that she will have to abandon her exhibitions of clothes for the duration of the war, and America believes that she is capable of supplying her own fash ions from now on. because the American women will encourage the work. There is no belief that Paris will discontinue the making of clothes. but there is a strong feeling that the exhibition of last February will be the last until peace is declared and commerce resumed on it's normal basis.
 iteie "te fe"o Ieasohs lor tHlS' Ihe enormous expense attending the arrange ment of these exhibitions of gowns, which was great loss to Paris this spring, and the frenzy connected with the effort to get workwomen. No one in Paris wants to sew or cut or fit or embroider. when a thousand new indus tries are open to women, where the wages a.ro fn n<. would be acting only according to wis.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

ing rooms If you do not. know this trick, try it.
 Women are already convinced that flaring seams do not go in the picture of today, and yet they grow weary at the thought of ripping seams of skirts from the knees down and straighten- ing them out The dressmakers have gone the other way around to save themselves trouble, and the woman who wants to alter a gown at home will find that their simple trick is by far the best way to get the new sil- houette 1t may necessitate a longer skirt than one has been in the habit of wearing. but there is every evidence that longer skirts are getting more pronounced for street usage and there- fore it is well to be prepared for the fashion.
 If skirt that is too full is drawn upward in slight folds and, caught at the end of the corset into one or more loops it will give the exact silhouette which America produced on it's stage last autumn, and which American women find much to their liking to- day. This is in standardization to the French silhouette and therefore one finds piquancy in the situation. At least, the trick is a boon to the wom- an who is economical this season, either through desire or necessity.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

lines, not hoopskirts, as the layman thinks, but gowns made of soft cambric which can be packed in tiny bundles and mailed to the American buyers. This is the best solution of the problem that has offered itself to all the merchants of the world.
 These crinolines can be shown to the American women, who will order gowns from them,l or they can oe copied on this side in cloth and pro duced in great numbers. If neither of these methods is necessary, they serve as inspiration and render ver- dict. This method would save millions upon millions of francs and would serve to sober and steady the apparel business. It would put it on a sensible basis and keep it within the bounds of taste and sensibility.
 On the other hand. the development of American fashions is big one. It is too big to take up at the same mo- ment as the discussion of the abolition of French exhibitions. But the one is made possible by the other. America is beginning to have pride in her ClOtneS ana to put the ldDel -'MaQe III America" on what is done. And, more than that-and this is the important thing-women in mass do not connive at dishonesty by insisting that they must buy French model, thereby compelling thousands of frantic dress makers to put dishonest labels in the belts of their skirts.
 AMERICAS MARROW SKIRT
 It may be remembered that last sea- son America invented the skirt with the slight hustle and the bias folds going upward from the knee to the back. It is claimed that French de- signer sent to this country for F of these sketches. and adopted the hustle in deference to American wishes. Good evidence for the truth of this state ment is shown in the hustle which certain French house has sent to this country.
 But while the hustle is not strongly followed up in this country. the nar- row draped skirt is beginning to get grip on the American public.
 One secret of it's success is the fact that kindly dressmakers have shown economical women that thcy can turn a slightly full straight skirt into an upward draped skirt in their own sew
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

during the first years of the war, that our opinion was correct
 But the situation has changed. and our beliefs have changed with it. As far as one can see, there is no chance of our losing the comfort of getting from Paris our inspiration as to the silhou- cite, and we shall also get from that country of consummate art in apparel the various movements of cloth. the de- tails of ornamentation, and the produc- tion of new tissues, which stimulate and enliven our work. But-and I say that with full conviction, after talking with people in power and with dressmakers, designers and merchants who have had their hand on the pulse of things for three years-a decided change is coming over our method of launching fashions.
 The reasons are important not only to the merchant, but to each woman. She is a thinking individual these days, if she never was before, and she will de- eide what is best to be done and will either coincide with the new method of work or go against it. Therefore. she ought to be informed of the conditions.
 SITUATION IN FRANCE
 Only handful of buyers went to Paris for new clothes this year. That did not lessen the number of gowns bought from the French designers. however. because all the resident commissionnaires were at work. But the disappointment in Paris at the lessened bulk of buying has been summed up on both contii ants in. N. Wo-th's now famous phase In-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

stead of American buyers, we had Amer ican visitors this season."
 And why did the Americans refuse to buy? Because the prices were beyond their limitations for one reason; and, another, because of the fact that there was not enough striking novelty exhib- ited to make it worth while, and sev- eral of the houses displayed an osten- tatious gayetyi and barbarish in clothes that was not suitable to our mood.
 The house of Callot, for instance, showed, at an enormous expense, 35O gowns that were as orientally exotic as those worn in the Russian ballet. The designs might have been for Cleop- atra in her glory.
 These gowns would irritate Americans this season, and Ca1lot should have been quite aware that they wouldn't have been worn by French women. She mis- judged the American public by the ex- travagance that it displayed in Paris in the question of money. You may remem- Der that this question was taken up in this department at the beginning of the winter.
 The house of Premet was more sub- dued, although one expects it to be ec- l centric; and while the simple gown worn by Mme. Renee received 200 orders, the i rest of the exhibition was patronized 1 by the newly rich Parisienne and the Reviera set, not by us. It would be te- dious, however to go into the details of the great houses.
 1 Another absurdity which Paris insisted upon the short sleeve. She imi- 1 tated the Directoire with the four-inch sleeve for afternoon, and the loose elbow sleeve for other hours of the day, and she did 1t at a time when, as a woman
 of wide information and social power
 wrote from Paris, gloves were almost i'm l possible 70 get by even the very rich, and were sold at absurdly high prices.
 Again, Paris produced a stupendous amount Of jet and loaded our evening,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

skirt over which to drop it. Black satin goes with blue serge, beige cloth or brown gabardine. It also goes with plaids and checks. and on the other hand Sotch designs in wooden ana other fabrics are used for skirts. Tunics of plain material are combined with these skirts by the best dress makers, and therefore the amateur sewing woman need not be timid ill making the same combination.
 THE INSISTENT ROUND NECK
 The prophets who spoke against the success of the Italian neckline should be without honor today. The Ameri- can woman took up this difficult neck line of the renaissance with an en- thusiasm that was most unexpected. One might call it we'll nigh universal wherever fashionably dressed women are forgathered today. It is not only the ruling line in gowns for the street and semi-formal frocks for the even ing, but it rules in separate blouses.
 It is not considered fashionable any more to pull the collar of ones blouse over ones coat. Remember that. It is a small touch, but most impor- tant one, this spring. The coat may have it's own collar of white pique, batiste or filet lace. but it cannot be
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

The deleterious effects of the dreadlul lettering, the God-awful colors, tho vulgar drawing of the display signs can hardly be overestimated. Even worse are the electric puerilities that
 make night hideous in our cities. The control of all this lies in the
 hands of the public. If there could be founded a league of sufficiently pow erful numbers, which would agree to 5patronize firms or goods of which the display signs are artistic, it might be possible to substitute very quickly Tor the competition in vufgarity which at present exists. a competAion in love- Illness. A beginning in this direction has already been made: certain post CTS produced in recent years are dlSs tinctly works of art.
 At all events, as the public becomes educated in art, the present style ot advertisement must come to an auto- natieg end. It depends for its exist ence upon the power of the ugly t0 strike the untrained eye and attention. It is mot the sight of ugliness, but of beauty which haunts the memory of 1 a person Whose eyes have been opened. No one would be quicker to realize this psychological fact than the advertise ! CTS. Imagine the difference in our cit. | es in our lives, if each advertisement were a work of art. What an outlet for decoration and artistic expressioA
 r1,irht he found!
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28
dom, therefore, if she abandoned semi-annual exhibitions.
 UNBEATABLE PRICES

The American buyers were not enthu-
 siastic, 1t IS true, over the purchasing of 1 hundreds of French gowns, although , they spent an immense amount of money
 out of pure good will and taking a gam
 be The prices were beyond all lmita- 1 tions set for colthes. France said she
 was compelled to ask such prices, and l the American buyers thought they were
 compelled to give them; but they assert 1 themselves as determined never to do it again.
 ] Two hundred and fifty dollars was simple price for any gown. Two hun
 dred dollars was asked for muslin
 without lace or embroidery. Callot asked | from five to six hundred dollars apiece 1 for her evening frocks Now add to that the 60 per cent duty which every l merchant must pay to our customs. There were some gowns that cost $1000 to .and. What would be the return on such clothes? No American woman would buy them.
 At an exhibition of the best gowns two multi millionaire women in this coun- | ty looked at them with an expression
 
 l that an American woman in these times of stress would pay $500 for an evening gown and s4OO for an afternoon gown?" was the question they put to the woman | who had bought the clothes in Paris.
 They considered the situation unthink-
 able.
 l One woman, whose name is symbolic of the wealth of the country, said that | if she had million year to spend on clothes and the inclination to do so, she | would be humiliated to the dust to ap-
 pear among her fellow beings in clothes that stood for such extravaganza. She admitted that she paid high prices be-
 cause that was necessary, and that she believed in keeping herself well dressed; but sho added that her clothes were de-
 mure and transformations and did not Haunt themselves.
 l WHAT IS THE SUBSTITUTE? l During the French revolution, France sent out doll with new fashions to show how women should dress, and this
 mannequin was copied and initiated even on the frontier lines in America ] Next summer she may send out crino-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28
SEEMING TRIPLES TN
 FASHION THAT COUNT

again in the middle of the back neck
 line. and then float away to the knees.
 The reason for their revival is easy
 to guess The house of Callot brouSnt|
 out afternoon and evening froeks thatl
 were surprisingly low in the necklinel
 and without a collar. When therel
 was a transparent back width. or cape'
 or folds of satin drapery. the gown|
 had a narrow strap of velvet or orna-
 mental ribbon running straight across
 the shoulders at the back, and thisI
 transparent width was caught to it|
 at each end, dropping downward. This
 trick gave rise to a great many vari-|
 ations and the ribbons fluttering from
 the back caught the fancy.
 There are four things in fashion thatj are often discussed todaya The se- were uncollared neckline the short| sleeve, the cape back and the lack o4 chiffon blouses. A dressmaker drew a patrons at 11 tention to the absence of the latteII garment because of the prevalence of e-piece frocks. and told how tha shirtwaist people were depending uporI wash blouses to continue their bus:-I ness. Every woman can see for herself : the sartling change fin the necklineI It is no longer considered correct tq pull the collar of blouse over tha coat revers. If a separate blouse i4 worn, it has round Italian nece3 which shows between the opening oH the coat fronts. If the worsted ma terial of the cloth of the coat Is m Egainly against the flesh, then the coa must have some cleverly devised whit collar of it's own.
 Sailor collars are not smart HigN collars that roll upward at the bac and down in the front are not attache to coats The collars that go on bod ices of one piece frocks end befor| i they reach the collar bone and the roa| of the decolletage is untouched by An
 line of white.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

There is a growing tendency to lift skirts in the middle of the back. shortening them considerably. This movement of the fabric is very well liked. It is a fashion started in this country, independent of Paris last June, and it has become universal, if one judges from the number of French and American houses that consent to 1t. |
 When Callot departs from the one piece mummy robe, which she has given as the startling innovation of the season. she drapes the fabric up ward from the knees, so that the hem in the back is sometimes six incnes shorter than in front.
 There is also a simple expedient of giving the bias line from the knees to the end of the spine by the use of a broad band of ribbon, cloth of me- tallic tissue, according 10 the material of the gown. This band is loose. and is thrown around the figure like bit of harness. Where it ends in tha back it is finished with flat bow. carelessly tied with long ends, or merely looping in and out of these ends. so that the surface may con tinue flat.
 Quilted designs continue to please the dressmakers. and women are being persuaded to wear them. Elaborate bits of quilting, done on chiffon taf- feta. are used for collars and cuffs, patches on the hips, girdles and hems on skirts.
 An American designer has brought back the neck ribbons, which have al- ways been coquettishly called "suivcz moi, jeune homme." which. translated, is, follow me, young man." For in- stance. they are made of kings blue velvet half an inch wide, and they are caught at the front of the neck of a midnight blue crepe de chine gown, cross tho bare shoulders. are fastened
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

 FLARE AT THE HEM AND THEY ARE MOUNTED OVER NARROW SKIRTS-ENTIRE CHANGE IN NECK-LINE SPRING, COATS ARE OFTEN MINUS COLLARS ROUND DECOLLETAGE IS A RULING ONE.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

The millions who are employed in the making of women's apparel in this coun- try are disturbed by an important dis cussion that is going on among them selves.
 It has to do with the importation of French colthes, with the prices asked for all kinds of apparel, with the threat ened abolition of the famous French semi-annual exhibitions, and with the tendency of the public to ask for Amer ican clothes.
 No woman should be ignorant of this situation. On her shoulders, as an in- dividual, which is part of a mass, rests much of .he responsibility of the future In France women are the decisive fac tors in fashion; in this country they have not assumed that role. With the exception of a few, they are willing tc be led. They are guided by those in au- thority, and those in authority are guided ny Paris.
 This is not true to the extent that the reformers and the critics preach. Nc one is any the worse for it. Our coun- try has not been in position to assume the leadership in fashions, any more than in art, architecture or literature We have had to be, led in all these things; yet the very man who goes te Paris and Italy for art is the first one to ask his wife why she is foolish enougf to adopt :he French fashionsi
 If therefore, the American womer were not free thinkers regarding clothes and were merely led into each fashior by a comfortable moose that was pulled along by he merchants and dressmakers it was because they placidly felt tha this was the best path in which the, should tread,
 Since te war, however, there has beer a growing feeling here of independenc of Paris. All of us who firmly believed that no country could get along witt out the deciding vote of France as t, what should be done in clothes, realized
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

ornamented with collar that is not attached to itself.
 Because of this new dictum Of fash ion there are many women who omit revers from the neckline. so that they will not have the struggle of putting one collar over another.
 There has come about strong and ugly tendency to allow the coat collar to rest against the neck in it's stark roughness. showing beneath the collar bone the round Italian neckline of the blouse. This is a fashion that should be avoided Even the young and beau tiful cannot stand the severity of it. If the coat is of black satin. then the effect is not so harsh
 It is not necessary to keep to white at the neckline. Collars and cuffs are made of white organdies and checked ginghams; but these should not be adopted for any hour except informal ones.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

Another piece of alteration that is given away by good dressmakers is adding to a frock narrow, plain underskirt and cutting the gown itself 10 or 12 inches shorter, and letting it fall as tunic with a girdle over the new addition. This eliminates the flares in the chemise robe of yester- day and gives one the proper silhou- cite.
 As long as it Is fashionable to wear two or three materials in combination one is not called upon to match the one-time chemise gown in cloth or color when adding separate under
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28
Art in Advertising

A. Kingsley Porter. in the Yale Req
 view.
 The education of the public should be carried out not only along positive but also along negative lines. Certain subtle. insidious conditions must be eradicated. The mania for advertise ments is deeply rooted and backed oy powerful interest. I believe it is among. the most serious of all existing ills
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-04-28

AMERICA MAY AT LAST ABLE OWN FEET IF PARIS DECIDES TREMENDOUS EXPENSE OF HER EA- PETITIONS WORTH MATHEMATICIAN WOMEN ADOPT DRAFTED SKIRT AS A MEANS OF ALTERING THE SLIGHTLY FULL SKIRT PRECEDED THE NEW YEAR