New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-12-29

rE~HE marvellous completely OF per-
IL sonalty which exists in every IN
dividual-the curious mingling Of Gle
ments from the past that go to make
us of the present and the future :
these are at the basis Of remarkable
idea which is tempting a New York
shop into a policy Of artistic origna-
ton in the matter of womcn's apparel.
Women are charming, according to
the gospel Of this shop-thc Bonwt
Teller Company--not because they are
alike, but because they are different,
and nothing in the world which is
beautiful is considered too remote or
too ancient to be of use in bringing
out that difference distinctly.
That is why in the Bonwit Teller
scheme Of things there is constant
seeking after beauty, not only in the
world of art to-day but i'll every age
and in every place where it may have
found expression.
Down through the musty records of
ancient art and design the store de-
signers seek constantly for original
ideas adaptable to modern modes and
in line, color and even fabric, the or
room.
The simplest tea-gown may have a
history that is centuries old. 1t may
have been designed from a thousand
yearold Peruvian robe, dug UP from
the dry ruins Of a South American viii
lage and now in the Museum, in which
case it is intended for warm blooded
daughter of to-day whose tastes may
find satisfaction in thing that graft
fed sister in the past.
mediaval robe, flaming scarlet with
the tones that Borgia made famous,
is intended to strike again the fancy
of proud and domineering creature
of this newer age. Or a Batik de-
sign, brought by a buyer from a re-
mote corner in Java to the designing
rooms, is wrought into a whole series
of negligees that will fit small, dusky
woman of this island type.
All this is because women are learn
n m
to their individuality than to the ex
listing mode. And in this store all army
Of artists originate, do research work
IN connection with museums here and
abroad, and begin if necessary with
the very dyeing Of the fabric itself in
order to obtain the results which they
desire.
There is another phase Of the indi
vidual problem Of dress i'll the new
lingerie shops of this store. Some
thing Of the love which the Partisan
has for the intimate undergarment is
beginning to seep into this country, if
the new Adam Chambers are any indi-
cation of tastes. Pale panelled rooms
with rows on rows Of drawers they are
and back of the worried wood lie piles
OF daintiest garments made Of tilnv
laces and materials which are espec-
Tally designed for the bride-to-be.
Here IS emphasized the idea that
lingerie must harmonic with costume.
That is automatic. For every type Of
garment one must have its correspond
ing bit of underwear-tailored lingerie
i"r the sport costume, something more
elaborate for the evening gown, and
everything not only suited to the wear
CT but actually fitted to her. Not the
least important function Of the Cham
Der5 is to keep the bridal lingerie away
from the eyes of the curious shopper.
so that when it is acquired it viii not
have not lost its essential sense of
freshness and daintiness.
The setting for these original gar
meats IS none the less interesting than
they are themselves. If one is to buv
ncgligee one must approximate the
conditions of wearing while shopping.
therefore, the showrooms arc simply
and comfortably furnished, almost like
" Doudoir, with rcstful chairs and low
seats. If one is dressing for the even
ing one shops in room with glitterine~
lights that approximatcs the look Of
the ballroom.
Everywhere the commonplace is
eliminated and the total effect of the
9n0p IS one so unusual in itself that
IL cannot fail to draw out that which
IS unusual in its visitors.
I i rs long time since the first
= nickel dropped into the first slot
macAine and came out at the other end
piece Of chewing gum. postaan ..4s...n..