davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31


81
! M |l
i sQlg M s
A I IA
II IS 81 81 81 q 81 !sses
& Xs B $50 IS II &s#S $50
&E t16
81 sf,oci1
t|l3st u I'D IVA
o rest,
ff4iE hlfd s ppsrel SIS kind 81 cos
liase IN s<gasts every ching nm areB not
St fIlis houf There may be 40 reasoll than
<IIit 81 liitio1i for as 10 asso ciate lowered
Eslinsy he tan Eth sashes with 81 tile
hack, ii1Ine se Eng fish garden hats tied under
t6e chin and lace-cov ered parasols, with that
part d woman nature That deals il coquetry,
ti1s eternal appeal to masculine admiration,
elpIessness, and an TIE accentuated tricks Of
J 4ernininity which the world thought it had
wiped out TO 4 certain measure
s.. S.. j. 4, - c sEs| s. s.
6 - n \. -. ~
sss''s1es a1'ss s e. =.
s'ss0 usys s. - ~
Is = a.AS 8
ss"s s. Is si'e = my a'sl
- ~ ~ osA1 ~ - ny ei1ss
sns women g ene nlolnels snoulu appear Nell
an tne Hnsilsn eardsh type y csoenes' WIFI
WHICH on9 aiWays sssoc lA'es ssia"Dsllass ana
e1eal.l, wssAs n<all paleeo - sne
mldQie' ana sny, almost gaucne manners put
snat 1ney snonia elect TINS nowery ana 1otlie
1asnlon at thus noun.
81 tney are aoing y. botn france ana
America are neapmg inquired 1aprlcs upon us
WolnanKlno. Lace y nstahed again. I'M
nense BOWS OF taHeta ribbon, sashes OF every
KIND moving elnow sleeves surphce necks
with vide nandkerchlefs Of colored fabrics
are shown and worn Dy women who have
pfopaply spent the morning at class IN nurs-
ing at hospital and Will spend the evening
ct canteen.
s.''' :
strenothen;np tendency - women = dress
more and move IKE men s. tba dav a.
either verv smnlv - i, =, zor;a, fssl,;or
81 the evening.
We have tried - standard;1a c,o+,.s fo,,.
;sblv bnt earnaetlv +bro,,olo,,+ III c,,a,,,,e,s
az dress We know +ha+ o,,e q +ba ,,,ost ~
80 ,o,,,,,,
8 crc,,,at;nc ,,o+;t;o ~, -
bers - ta e,act ttat the,s ~ ~,
three Gowns sasson ono for esc,, d;,,;s;a,, -
tha dav the mice = h coo ~, +,,a
uniforms t. he ~ standard ,,attern And x,et
these verv orls r;obt IN +o, 30 s,cb -, ~
deavor 40 tb;s - o,d
f1np themselves into f,owerea voles Win Mil,
and violet taffe+a sases tied WITH door, h,,s+lo
49,. :. ~. se 49,
straw heaped with flowers,
Il NAV he that the leonard cannot change
his spots. hut woman can certa;n,v chance
her TYNE at win. She seems to shrink and
grow thin. 20 curve out and grow fill -
stand higher or lower in her boots. and - a.
sumo at win the militant or the coouettisb
a;r n +b;s snr;,. a. 1o1o = 1aoL. - 49,.
she were going to do all Of these things at
various times Of the dav,
~
M, . ~, .e.eu
,', esa,e1 :. NV s.'s Doiiy sarden' Watteau
49,. : ~" mi,' 0pieau ~ ciotnes one
,,,stss 80 .aal,oa - '.as a'sa's oneru's sum
hv thro,v;r., ~ ~, $500 Japanese eiecss
them. In ber svh;h;4;n, :, D.: po"e1 ~
last rart 81 Februarv sha ;n+.as',a -, .'e
mono IN mora nerso,,a1 49, w -
the other DESIGNERS sba s,,,,;ttaa 80 -,
society Of her best gowns tho s,or;,,,. shs,,I
degs, the long, loose armho,es. tho aow;ro
three-quarter sleeves turned up at the hem.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31

East and that the real door to it is through
Picking. The Monaghan streak runs across
the steppes and under the birch trees and on
ward toward the turquoise-blue domes Of
Peters Marshes. Has France gone backward
through the steppes from revolutionary Petro-
grad to republican Picking? There is much
of China in the clothes Of the hour.
Reasoning out the Japanese influence Is
simpler, for it may merely mean that the
French designers are throwing sartoral bou-
quets to their ally.
Entire Gowns Of Jet
The house of Cabot has thrown it's influence
into many channels and the gowns of its max
ing, which arrived in this country later than
all the others, increase the respect we must nav
to jet. The woman who has cherished frock
o. jet and wondered if the style would ever re-
turn in order that she might revive it into
something modern, may go to the work with
enthusiasm.
Cabot is not the only designer who whirls Jet
around the wheel of fashion into the top place.
but she is the one designer who introduces en-
tire gowns of it. These are coat of mail crea
tons, that cling to the figure like glittering
cuirass and whiten in brilliant way the skin
of the neck and arrns, which are left uncovered.
These gowns have trains of tule or lace, and
they are costly-oh, very very costly!
The other night at a large dinner in Fifth
Avenue house the hostess turned out all the
electric lights as she proceeded toward the
dining room, saying, II have wanted to do this
all my life, and never could indulge my whim
until the war made it the fashion" And she
expressed the feeling Of every woman in the
land about most extrayagances. Through the
absence Of social fear and the promotion of
physical and moral courage which this war
brings out may come the regeneration and the
redemption Of all our social customs.
Choosing Green for Suits
Another thing that the house of Cabot has
done to get us away from conventional fash
son is the exploitation Of green for the street
1t may DO roughly said that there are thon-
sand navy blue gowns to hundred OF anv
other color, and. admirable as dark blue is. the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31

world grows bit weary Of the monotorsous
profession Of gowns in this color which moves
to and fro from France to Alaska. We cry
aloud for something else. We are like the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31

heroine Of the novel, who passionately wished
io' JUST unread OF scarlet IN her costume to
make her oeileve 'nat there was happiness and
gayety in the world,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31
Millinery Shows a Tendency to
Flaunt Itself at the Back

we are on the verge Of revolution IN
millinery or at least in the way that millinery
is adjusted to the head.
After all it is the silhouette that counts. The
French women say that any hat will do as long
as you know how to pose it and place the veil.
IT might be added that these tricks are in the
hands OF geniuses and not easily achieved by
the average mortal. Out of thousand women,
1t may be estimated that only ten can give
hat the proper pose and put on veil with
deftness and brilliant result.
There should be school opened for in
struction in the posing of hat and the place
ment of veil. These tricks are harder to
teach than the French language, skating on
Ice or jumping hurdles, but good deal could
be gained by such school, even If perfection
were not scored
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31

THE GIBSON SAILOR
RETURNSIt is Of black
straw, with a wide band
of taupc velvet and a
curled pl u m . haring at
the back.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31
The MILDLY Blouse
Has Reappeared in Colors

AS early as January there was tendency
on this side of the water to introduce the kind
Of garment which we once called the Peter'
Thompson. This was invented, you may r
member, by. an old sailor in Philadelphia, wlee|
fashioned them Of heavy white duck, stitches
them strongly and soundly and turned them OUT
for thousands of children. AS time went os
they moved into the channel of sport clothes.
and became the regulation garment for alE
manner Of athletic games.
Their recrudescence shows them in q no!s
ornate form. They were first introduced IS
January in the form Of white flannel for Palm
Beach, and they were trimmed with canarys
colored woollen threads arranged in a long darn
ing stitch and turned up at the hem in q serles
of pockets that would hold tennis or golf balIss
Then they appeared in velveteen for stles
wear and in Chinese and japanese embroidsEl|
for house wear, with skirts of crepe de ehlss
or pleated satin. They fitted into the sch
OF fashions in such an admirable maak!
that the dressmakers played them up h 3!
variety OF fabrics and offered them as suiaas3s'
for occasions where they should never hase
been worn. "a
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31
Substitute for a Jacket

This Peter Thompson blouse has beslI
adopted as substitute for short jacket n!|
older and have young figures a.s int In these das.
OF rushing anxiety, of busy hours, Of fa ss
moving activities, women are sometimes GLAD q
be RID OF the annoyance of the separate blouss
which jacket demands. The laundry CUES
ton has also become important. The FRESHNESS
demanded n white blouse has become
nuisance. Therefore, the bodice and jacket 9
one which have good lines and obyiate the ne
cesslty for waist make a strong appeal.
The sketch shows suit which combine, :
separate skirt and de luxe MILDLY blouse. yhss
skirt itself is of biscuit-colored crepe pleateo
IN panels at the side, and the substitute for n
jacket is Of green silk crepe, that dark, sparrks
ling green that the house of Cabot has ntloo.'
duced as first choice color for street su,ss;
The blouse is cut off at the hip line and ronsgs
upward into cuff that is faced with the skm5
fabric. The long, comfortable sleeves are rols2p
up above small, faring cuff Of the hiscu!ess
colored crepe. The large rose, which Is Vs '
as substitute for the sailors cravat, IL hssxt
embroidered in biscpit-colored aillk 81 B
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-03-31


Callot gives us green to quiet our nerves
She gives us q chance 10 get away from navy
blue and still remain demurely and soberly
frocked.
It may be said that Cabot has no idea Of
letting us appear demure. Evidently that
house employed as many embroiderers as it
could find in Paris, and used up all the brill
liant dyes for which it is famous, because orna-
mentation Of the most sombre frock, unless it is
black, runs riot in the Callot clothes
There is strikingly dangerous tendency
toward overlooking in some of the new French
gowns. Really, you know, when women are
allowed to wear dozens of small mirrors en-
broldered to Burgundy background, fringes
OF combined ostrich feathers, girdles that dan
gle monkey-fur, and even colored feathers from
birds, across the bcdice-then it is time to stop.
look and lsten
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

particulars, referred to the traction com
pany being n customer ot the WestlnR-
house Electric Co, from which company
the expert came to investigate the stand
ing of the local trolley company. MIR.
Garretson stated that both he and the
other members of the board were OF the
opinion that the concern was too bIg and
well known to stoop to the level to lie
because one little" traction company
bought supplies from IT.
In regard to the question that the
Board of Public Utilities failed To SEQ
that the city benefited any by the in
crease allowed the traction company,
Mr.. Garretson said that the body Of
! which he was a member had no power To
participate in any way In the levylng OF
the taxes.
The ninth specification was that the
board acted in bad faith III not obtaining
sufficient information before allowing the
Traction Co to increase It's rate. In
J answer to this, Mr.. Garreison said that
he had all the information IN his opinion
that was necessary To vote on the ques-
ton and that he arrived at the decision
after having expert advice and com
parative rates in AZ other cities.
Once in answer to question asked by
Mr.. Robertson, the defendant stated
IL am n fivc-ccnt man or even less; that
| might sound strange.
The reply of Councilman Robertson
was. at docs sound strange
Councilman Robertson tired, through
many questions, To learn If MIR. Garret-
son was interested in the workings OF the
/ Wilmington Il Philadelphia Traction Com
pany. Tho defendant denied mat ne
was.
Councilman Abbcrger also took turn
nj Questioning Mr. Garretson and asked
him il he did not know that mt the time of
allowing the two-cent increase that the
Front and Union streets line was under
Indictment and liable To fine. The
answer was: II didn know
President Lyon, IN referring to state
mcnt made by MIR Garrctson before City
Council, asked the witness II he did not
erase part of this statement before giving
il to the press to make public. MIR.
Garrctson answered that hc did.
The question oi adequate service and
the pay of the crews came IN for good
deal OF questioning. during which Com
missioner Garrctson stated that the com
mission could always demand better ser
wee, and that while the rate case was
beng heard, there was no special reason
why the demand for better service should
have been made then The following Ing
urcs were brought ont at the close OF
the hearing That the companv's in
come is 81, l,ll20OO. that the labor costs
the company S4S0,000, that ITS bonds
amounted to $1,000 900 and that its
capital stock amounts to 81 ,0600OO and
Is not asscssahlc, dividends being pad
whenever the company IS in position To
do So
The quizzing Of Philip ] Isaac, the
other hold-ovcr member Of The board,
lasted only short time, and was along
the same lines rs the questioning Of Mr..
Garrctson Henry II lsaacs, his counsel.
asked that counsel be given nm op-
portunity TO present their case before
Council reached their final decision and
this was granted II was after this that
the decision TO hand down the findings at
a later meeting was reached.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

rnents, in which the American g,Inners
successfully covered the operations of the
infantry and the engineers.
To the Americans already north Of the
river there was added considerable
strength during the night and early
morning. The line tonight is well fixed
along the Rouen-Rheims road from near
Bazochcs, which still Is in the hands Of the
Germans, 10 point well cast Of f'ismcs.
The Americans holds Fismoa apparently
securely, but the village Of North Fismes
proved difficult, and ~ midday was sub
jectcd to terrific shelling by the American
artillery.
On the hills beyond the line at almost
every available point the German light
artillery have been placed, while the
Heavy guns have been withdrawn beyond
the Aisne, and gums Of medium caIilre arc
northwest of Perlcg commanding the
region about Bazochcs Since the fight
began ON the Veslc these guns have stead
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

ly pounded the American line but the
American artillery has been equally ener-
eetic IN replying. Comparatively little
damage has been done by the German
guns, while the silcncine Of enemy gun
fire from bis lighter artillery positions s
an evidence Of the accuracy Of tho Aneri-
chn artillery and the destruction of various
German machine Rin positions have been
obvious.
IL is still generally believed TINT the
Germans are making nothing more than
q pretense of holding their lines here.
The testimony of prisoners todaycontinues
TO Indicate that positions beyond the
Aisue have been prepared by the Ger
mans md that the present action is 70
gain time and also 10 infict ~ much ltas
az possible on the Americans and their
Allies
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09
HORSES AT THE FAIR.

Encouraged by The great guccese NJ
the special class for locai dcliyery b0rses
40 the fair l8st year, the Delawarc state
Fair will this year again nclude ~ their
borge show program thm class FOr
the beat pair of heavy bHscg, hitched
to Ar appropriato vehicle, 81 prize II 81
viii be awarded the driver ~ The team
and The winner will receiver D nblon
4 prize of $40 win b. awarded the driver
of the beet sinQle horse, for delivery pur-
poses, attached ~ an appropriate vcmrlc,
while the owner will receive . ublFn
The management is making alI eiimif
TO make the show this ycor Tho greatest
in the history " the fau, and arrange
mcnts arc fast being completed
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09
j, S, TROOPS ROOTED
FIRMLY IN f|SMES
Keep Pounding Back at Huns,
Who Try to Dislodge Them
From Town.

With the American Army on the Vesie,
Aug. 9.-tTnder almost incessant shell fire,
the Americans struggled forward today
to slightly better positions north oi the
Vcslc. French divisions To the east and
the west did their part in STRENGTHENING
the line.
This day was not marked by organized
attacks anywhere along the front, but
was prinetnnted bY shnrp nlnor engnge-
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09
BUT THEY DIDN'T.

The Democratic state Committee
meets at Dover today 10 decide upon the
date for the Democratic State Convcn-
ton VIC hope that il will select as carly
4 date rs possible. 50 Senator Salisbury
will have more time 20 conduct bis cam
paign for reelection Delaware State
News
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

Every Evenings classified advertise
ments bring results. Proved n the satlt
faction Of many and will be 70 you -AdY
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

Excuse me. madam, but here is 8
strap"
Il thought had a strap.
no. madam. YOU were hanging onto
nv ear. Kansas City Journal
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

Lost sornething7 Try classified
advertisement in Every Evening ADV.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09

Lost something? Try classified
advcrtis cmcnt in livery Evening ADV.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09
Pocket Book Found.

The pocketbook, belonging 10 Mrs
Alfred s. Bradford, which She lost while
on the way to Atlantic City was turned
over to the police department yesterday
with contents intact II was found on
west Fourth street car by Mrs. Helen
Witsel, Of 200 Washington street. The
pocketbook contained $50 in money
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-08-09
NnnNnAY MEET1NGs.

In answer as t. why the meetings Of
the board were nearly all held AT noon
time. Mr. Garrctsan sand that meetings
were called when the time hes, suited the
members and that he was not responsible
for the calling Of meetings rs this was UP
to Mr. McNullcn president Of the board
Tho sixth specification in the hill of
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1918-09-06
BY AsSociatcd Press

With the French Army I'm Franco,
the Germans. provoked in the first
instance by their second defeat on
the Marne, is continued and extended
in order to release enough divisions
to form a maneuveTing mass and res
gain a liberty of action of winch
Marshal Foch's brilliant operations
deprived them.
That is ;he expert opinion of the
situation based on the best obtain
able evidence of the condition of tue
German army and concerning the
views prevailing among the German
officers.
Russian Reserves Used Up
The Germans still have resources
that will enable them to continue
a stout defense and oblige the Allies
to make "A hard effort to clincn the
victory, which though inevitable, may
still be further off than it would ap-
pear to be from optimistic spec cuia-
tons that have been based on recent
successes.
Calculations based on the most dc-
curate information available show
that the Germans have lost 100 900
men since March 81. OF this total
about a half million were killed. per-
manently disabled or taken prisoner,
leaving about 100000 recuperable in
four or 1--WE months. Their reserves
dwindled during the same time in
about the same extent, which means
that the reinforcements brought from
Russia were used up.
Big Yankee Army
The American Army in France
next spring will alone exceed the
whole fighting strength of the Ger
man army, but in the meantime divi-
sions released by the shortening of
the line if the retreat is effected sue
cessfully and with half millicn
men recuperated from the wounded
and 100000 men of the 1920 class
now training. will constitute a
maneuvering army which General
Ludendorff may be tempted to hazard
another stroke.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1918-09-06
Enemy Artillery Fire
DuOindleS to Nothing

T..
With the British Armies in
France, Sept. 6.-Australian troops
have crossed the river Somme on a
wide front TO the south of Peronne.
British trCCps have captured the
towns of st. Christ, Brie, lie Mesnil,
DofnSt and Athies and now are ad-
NancinS 10 the east of those places.
Along the whole front from It's
southern extremity to the Bapaume-
Cambria road the fire of the encmy's
big guns is dwindling. This indi-
Gates that the Germans are making
strenuous efforts to get their artil-
lery behind the Hindenburg line.
Foe Uses Much Gas
The British have captured more
TostS around Havrincourt wood.
e. In many places north of the SEN
see river the Germans are firing thou
sands of eas shells indiscriminatelv.
Huns Fire Supplies
The Germans launched three coun-
terattacks against Hill So in the Iys
salient. Two were repulsed and once
the British fell back to the north of
the hill for moment. Farther
north the British have reached the
crest of the important ridge north
east of Wulverghem
West of La Bassee the British have
reached CantcleuX and are pushing
towards Niolaines. Many fires are
raging and explosions are occurring
over the whole area from which the
Germans are retreating.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1918-09-06
CHICAGO GETS
EARLY LEAD ON
BOSTON TEAM
2 S 6 9 H
Boston Am. UUEOEOU 4 = n :
Chicago Nat ukIMNMM = ID u II =

Chicago, Sept, 6.-Despite the
return of good baseball weather
to-day the crowd for the second
game of the world series between
Boston Red Sox and Chicago
Cubs was nearly as slow in as
sembling as yesterday. Half an
hour before game time the in
creased attendance was visible
in only u few sections OF the
bleachers and stands.
Boston Players Happy
The Boston men bubbled with
good nature as they went
through their practice stunts,
jigging when the band played
jostling their opponents
and otherwise showing their con-
hdence of being able to repeat
yesterdays victory.
The umpires to-day sacheted
to the lett, from yesterdays for
nation. the movement placing
Hildebrand at the plate; Klein
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1918-09-06
Senate Paves Way
For Bone Dry Order

Washington. Sept. 6.-Under a
joint resolution adopted by the Sem
ate the President would have author
ity to make the entire country a
dry" military zone at any time dur
ing the period of the war. The reso-
luton, sponsored by Senator Kellogg
and adopted with only one dissenting
vote. went to the House for consid-
Grafton.
The resolution carries precisely the
same regulation as to the declaration
of military zones as the Sheppard
amendment, which was attached as a
rider to the war time prohibition
amendment to the food stimulation
bill before it was adopted last week,
except that the kellogg resolution
removes the time limit of July /,
1919, as carried in the Sheppard
amendment.
The Sheppard amendment is tied
up with the food stimulation bill
There Is no certainty as to when the
food bill eventually will pass Con-
gress, and Senate leaders, impressed
with the situation in Wisconsin and
elsewhere, in which wet" spots have
appeared in the immediate neighbor-
hood of dry zones, wanted to get
quicker action.