Evening journal., 1918-09-25
MAY MODIFY
Shoe ruling
l03 Styles in Women's S
Footwear to be Eliminated
Under New Rule
FOUR LEATHERS
WILL BE USED

BOSTON, Sept. 2j-The saJe and
leather trade is again confronted with
proposed restrictions and regulations
from Washington which are considered
necessary by the war industries board
to a successful carrying on OF the war.
These rules, while drastic, are sucn that
they will be nOsgreat hardship on the
average tanner OF shoe manufacturer.
Il will. uoIFh, affe . q CcN guile Sc
riously, but is being taken by them
with the same stoical utterance that Is
used by our French Allies-"C'est Ia
guerre."
1t is understood that the first regu-
Lotions which were suggested by the
war industries board are much more
drastic than those which have since
been recommended by the shoe manu-
facturers and shoe retailers and agreed
20 by them. 10 was first intended 10
make a standard shoe in much The shme
manner as has been done in England,
but which has not proved successful
there. The retailers and manufacturers
pointing out the fallacy Of any SUN
idea, have arrived at an understanding
which Will give every one a fairer
chance to continue in business, al
though, perhaps, not in such a large
degree as in normal times.
The women's shoe trade viii be az
fected the most as II Is in this line that
most OF the styles are shown. The new
regulations, when accepted by the war
industries board, as they probably VIII
be shortly, will eliminate from retailers
stocks iO3 styles which are now being
carried. This, OF course, Will allow
them to release capital, inasmuch as
they will have 10 carry fewer shoes
on their shelves.
Leathers which will be acceptable
will be white, black, patent ana one
shade Of brown. Patent leather may
be used in wOmens low cuts, DEt not
in boots. Il may be used in mems dress
boots, but. nos in OxfOrds. Button
shoes are also doomed by the new
regulations, as they will only be per
mitied n the old fashioned comfort
broad-toed shoes, which are usually
worn by elderly women.
Button shoes may be made IN men
shoes only in the patent leather dress.
IIigh-heeled boots are also doomed, rs
the regulations stated that no heel shall
be over one and seven-eighths inches
high. finished and that these heels can.
not be used except on pumps and on
fords. This means that on boots the
heel must be Of the military or Cuban
type. Ornaments Of all kinds may not
be used. with the exception OF fabric or
leather bows on what are commonly
called Colonlals.
- mi ms
which affects some Of the high-grade /
stores and high-grade manufacturers Is
the price limit which the government I
says must be put on all shoes.
No mems or vOmen's low cuts can .
retail at more than sil and no high |
shoes at more than si2. On boys shoes,
sizes 3 TO 5Is and misses shoes, sizes
n TO 2, the maximum price IS to be |
.6. There Is much comment in the
trade over these prices. as II was the
intention Of the war industries board TO /,
protect the laboring classes or the men
working at a moderate salary from
having 10 pay extreme high prices for
heir footwear. The trade argues that
here are few OF this class OF people /
whom the government is trying to pro-
.ect who pay Sii 10 $40 for their shoes.
10 was first proposed that the retail
price OF a shoe be stamped by the man
ifacturer when the shoe was made.
This ruling has for the present bea1
,idetracked.
In place OF this, each manufacturer
must stamp on the lining a letter indi-
,ating the class OF shoes, and register
With the war industries board the
rrice Of this shoe, together
With the pre-Nar price on the same
lrticle. The purpose OF this Is TO dis
'over whether or not the manufacturer |
5 charging an excess profit on his
yOods. The leather and shoe business
las naturally been upset by these rcgu-
atlons. and il will take some time for
/ perfect understanding OF them to be
lrrived at. In the meantime. neither
he shoe buyer nor the manufacturer
$ willing TO place much business. Tan
lers were recently told 10 go ahead and
make two shades OF tam Now that \
,nly one shade OF tan will be allowed
hesce tanners are trying 10 discover
,Ome way 10 lawfully get rid Of the
eliminated color. The government says
hat there will be no financial loss TO
ny OF the tanners and for this reason
{ is belleced that the new regulations
viii not go into effect for some months.
Il is also believed that the policy of
he government is to allow the sale OF
m shoes which are now made up or in
,rocess Of manufacture even though
he price be in excess OF the govern
nent maximum. Large contracts for
10Th army and navy shoes have been
laced and successful bidders are now
purchasing the stock for these shoes.
[ IS believed inat during October an
ther contract for 100000 pairs OF
rmy shoes will be placed. Manufac-
urers have had moro or less difficulty
n procuring the leather for these shoes
[ the price which the government said /;
vas sufficient Some OF the largest
anners arc holding their stock for
1ore money. It is evident that unless
he government takes drastic action
iith these tanners the price of leathT
n the next contract will be higher than
n the present one. No active civilian
usiness can be looked for Immediately.
TRY MRS. HALSEY ON OCTOBER 1. ,
Trial OF Mrs. Laura p. Halsey, charg-
A hx, locoI atffornohilfcfc xyftb rlacfng