davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1918-08-18

spondents trying to be theatrical. like
Mr.. Belasco?
We expect six more weeks Of warm
weather, and therefore we have no abb
sorbing interest in new October
clothes. We want to know what is to
he worn. and we are most interested
in what we hear is being shown in
Paris, but at this moment we are
struggling with the proposition OF en-
livening our wardrobe in such man
ner that it will keep US going until the
frs. frost.
As the nation has got into the habit
of living in the country until Thanks
giving there is growing tendency
to keep ones August clothes in active
service by means of top coats and
woollen stockings. 1t must be ad-
mitted that the present emergency
calls women into town nearly every
day, and they may net continue to
stay in the country as long as No
vember, but the majority will insist
on wearing their summer costumery
as long as the climate and convention
permit.
Ana right here comes in the excel
lent good taste of the present mid
summer costumes. Their very &C.
parture from the sweater and the sep.
arate white skirt permits them TO
serve at other seasons.
This is the stringent motto that
must run through the warp and wool
of our lives now: TO buy that which
can he worn on as many days and
as many occasions as economy die
tates. In short. We have accepted the
European way OF dressing for hot
weather. 1t may not appear cool on
the surface. but invention, which must
30 hand in hand with necessity, has
shown women how to be cool and
clean in dark costumes or in combi-
nations OF dark and light clothes.
There are many women who are
able 10 afford two separate wardrobes :;
one for the gayeties of the country
and one for the daily trips to town
but the average woman, and often she
is a multi-millionaire, has arranged
her wardrobe so that 1t will serve
for both purposes from now until the
first OF October.
| She has taken up the French idea
of wearing gowns or suits Of very
thin, checked material, and instead
| of an ornamental blouse she wears Z
The sun., 1918-08-18

persons who could do this batik work.
1t was the work OF artists and there
were few enough artists who had skill
In this line OF handcraft. Now, how
ever. some one has devised a way of
making printed batik that can be
turned out by machinery.
The original design from which 1t
is copied is genuine hand wrought
batik, 80 the reproduced result ought
to be OF similar artistic merit. At any
rate the price Is reasonable, and al
most any one who wants 1t now can
glory In batik negllgee OF barbaric
coloring.
Accordion pleating is going to be in
the lists again this autumn for sep
arate skirts. Sometimes the skirts are
so ingeniously designed and cut that
the pleating is arranged only on the
sides OF the skirts. giving In this way
ample fulness for grace and ease with
out affecting the narrowness OF the
silhouette that still prevails in vogue.
Perhaps 1t Is through the influence
of the Scotch kilties who have ap-
peared at various times in American
cities that We have revived our inter-
est In plaids. Perhaps It Is Just be-
cause bright co,oys are in vogue as
a relief from the grimness of war, or
perhaps 1t Is Just time that plaids
returned to vogue-they do periodi-
cally, do they not? At any rate some
OF the most interesting Of the new
The sun., 1918-08-18

waistcoat of pongee or colored crepe
de chine.
She has found out the good service,
especially for afternoon wear. of knife
pleated skirts of white crepe de chine
or thin serge. which she tops with
velvet or satin Jacket.
She realizes the comfort of Chinese
materials as well as their durability.
and she finds that one piece gowns.
made with a long, flowing tunlc. like
the French resort frocks, are admir-
able costumes for the train and the
motor. and that they serve from the
morning war committee through
lunch at some restaurant to the late
afternoon or evening.
The woman who Is in search Of
something original in the way Of a
dark, cool costume that will carry her
through the long hot days realizes
with a bit Of excitement that there is
something new in the field Of fashion.
The sun., 1918-08-18

Instead Of the long pleats at the side
the floating panel at the back. or tho
hip length cuirass buttoned in front
there Is the revival OF the Oriental
minaret tunic. 1t has come back with.
out warnin1 and the smart American
woman mases her midsummer .clothe,
on this model, choosing thin Chinese
silk. pongee. crepe de chine or an
American satin.
She adopts the short narrow sl;ir,
and flares out her minaret tunic In n
hooplike circle above her knees This
tunic carries its own bodice. ard i, -
woman copies the French models worn
on the beach at Deauville ard in the
casino at Aix-les-Bains she puts
splashing bit Of Arabian embroidery
at the waist and over the bust.
The latter is her call to the colors
The splash of red, blue and yellow ha,
to-day become the American woman.
symbol Of belief in victory.
The sun., 1918-08-18
French Idea of Gowns or Suits of Thin, Checked
Material With Waistcoats. of Pongee or Crepe
de Chine, Coming Into Vogue Instead

ness and the fact that Paul Poiret.
who Is a genuine artist in color, had
praised this fabric as the American
product of highest merit.
Two years ago I started the subject
again. and almost Immediately, simply
through the scarcity of labor and other
factors in industry. the calico PROPOSE
ton went beyond the bounds OF econ
.omy. Something happened to the de-
signs in the Southern mills. When
calico In good oolors could be bought
It's price was far beyond the price that
had been.
Percale, which had been n famous
Southern summer frock for a century.
was substituted for what is known as
calico, SO We got a great deal of the
former material under the name Of the
latter. Percale Is not calico. as any
Southerner can tell you. However. the
rest OF America thought 1t that and ac-
cepted 1t as such.
The episode reminds one OF the ex-
perience Of Charlotte Walker in The
Carriers OF Virginia" The actress Is
decidedly Southern. She spoke her
part at rehearsal as a Southern woman
speaks. But Mr.. Belasco. she told me.
insisted upon her studying the kind of
Southern tialect which the North ex-
pected. and Mr.. Belasco won out. as
usual.
To the SoutherneIs in the audi
ence Miss Walkers dialect was no less
ludicrous than 1t was to the actress
herself. but very possibly Mr.. Belasco
was right; he usually is. The North
has n certain idea of how the South
should talk, and to make an effect one
The sun., 1918-08-18
LESSONS IN THRIFT
FROM COLONIALDAYS

been able TO sleep for the cold Nav
1t not he possible that We will fnd
comfort in using warming pans ar
heavily hung beds il our fuel shortage
leaves us with unheated hedroomso
The Dutch colonists MANAGED 10
fight the cold more successful thar
any of the other colonists, ami II WIS
their custom TO have a fea'hr mat,
tress to sleep upon and anoth,r TO
sleep under. The custom still pceval,
In Holland. Perhaps some Of the Are
old Dutch stock in the miGdle Sru.s
next winter will revive the Gus ON OF
sleeping under feathers.
Daylight Saving Long Ago.
or course. any difficulty that We may
experience in the matter of cconomiz.
ing in light is. relatively speaking.
absurd. We will still dwell in the most
lavishly Illuminated land in the world.
We are but going back TO the man.
ners of our ancestors when We rise
earlier and retire earlier in order, 10
save the daylight. 1t is recorded o.
many Puritan home that the custom
was to eXtinguish the meagre candle
light that glowed during the time o.
family prayers, SO that none Of the
precious illumination should be wasted.
Perhaps our family prayers are no'
long enough in these days to make
such saving worth while, but the
practice sets us a good example.
In days when light had to be de-
rived from the unsteady glow OF a
burning knot OF fat pitch pine called
candle wood by the early colonists. i
was no wonder that people preferred
to get up by daylight and retire
shortly after sunset rather than 81.
up in an artifcially lighted room.
Whale oil was got at much hazard
and the wicks used were made from
miikweed, gathered In late summer
by the children and old women
Bayberries were gathered along the
seashore and at much pains converted
into wax candles that furnished some
Of the light for our ancestors, and deer
suet and moose fat were carefully con-
served to be used for candles.
Wax candles were also used and
not alone were bees cultivated for this
purpose but for. the honey they gave.
which was much in demand in The
days when white sugar was very much
more scarce than it is to-day. Maple
sugar was also used as suhst,tl'"
for sugar in those days.
We have been urged to use more
fish to save the meat. and If w Dc We
are again gong back to COlonia. lrcyc-
dent, for in tn days before the Erod,
production of beef and other meats In
this country It e sea was made to Weld
OF its abundance for the nourishmen,
of man. 1t was but A matter OF vulrs"
for the Colonial housewives to plan
several meatless days week in 'Aeir
regime
The sun., 1918-08-18
must carry ost the Norths precon-

must carry oat the North's precon-
ccived idea.
There is a temptation right here to
dip into a further discussion of this
subject in the remarkable dialect that
we are getting from the American
units on the western front via the war
correspondents and the short story
writer's. II the educated American
talks as pur American newspapers
make him talk. then he Is justifying
every TRADITION in France as to how
our educateG people talk.
There amt going to be none" is
the common remark of Harvard
graduate and a major Of infantry.
Nobody amt going to show me moth
ing" is the phrase that comes from
our expert artillery captains. Are we
actually living up TO Frances opinion
Of our illiteracy. or are the war corre-
The sun., 1918-08-18

generous proportions. one may be had
for Sc.
The sun., 1918-08-18

generous Proportions, one may be had
for Sc. =
Braid is going. to be very much used
this autumn. There is a war time rea-
son for this. as braid Is something that
covers multitude OF sins and makes
smart and neat finish to all sorts of
tailored frocks. coats and suits. There
Is kind of double. folded braid that
may easily be applied to the edge OF
sleeves. TUNES or skirts, giving them
complete finish with the minimum
OF work. The home dressmaker will
do well to make use of this new vogue
for braid.
or course braid Is not always used
as labor saving device, for in many
OF the new and smart suits very
elaborate system OF braid trimming Is
carried out, often several sorts OF braid
being combined in one design.
One of the reasons why batik lin
gerie and negligees especially COM
mended themselves to women whose
dress allowance was ample and who
liked the interesting and novel was
that 1t was OF necessity at first hand
wrought. 1t was produced by n slow
and laborious process necessitating the
use Of a Aim of wax placed over the
fabric before the dyeing process took
place.
There was an urgent demand for
The sun., 1918-08-18

A WOMAN who was looking at
"A some snapshots of fashionable
4 folk in the open on a mid
summer day remarked the peculiarly
old fashioned effect OF a certain cos
tune. 1t was a short, white linen skirt
buttoned down the front, a white
muslin blouse with a wide turn over
collar, a colored sweater opened in
front, with pockets and a belt OF the
same material.
"Once upon a time" said the woman.
this costume was considered the uni
form of the American summer girl.
1t was adopted without cavil. 1t was
accepted without comparison with the
fashions of any other country. And
set at this moment it looks entirely
out of the picture
There has been no revolution.
Changes in summer apparel have been
in cities only, They are Americanized
French fashion to-day. Even this
summer has seen a distinct change.
The linen, skirt, gored at the top.
slightly faring at the hem and but
toned down the front is thing of the
past to great majority Of women who
are we'll dressed by instinct, or be-
cause they follow the movement of the
crowds. Any skirt is worn but one Of
linen.
Certain dealers say that the sale of
sweaters for the autumn is small, but
they add that the spring sale was good.
We see sweaters in every shop, despite
the conservation of wool decree. We
see women knitting sweaters for them
selves and their children. and not for
the soldiers and sailors. We read that
department shops have an unusual
quantity of yarn and are willing to
sell it at moderate prices. All of these
facts jostle each other for first place
and. like the Kilkenny cats, they ap-
pear to eat each other up and leave
nothing.
Yet If one judges fashion by fash
ionable folk the colorcd. knitted
sweater has had it's day in silk or
wool. 1t is sometimes worn under
jackets. on days in the open that need
warmth, when the affair is a picnic. a
yachting trip or an automobile tour
Otherwise it hangs in the closets OF
the homes Of fashionable women. But
its lack of fashion has not deprecated
its monetary value, for yarn is eXpen-
sive to buy and difficult to obtain.
The ornamental blouse is a debat-
able fashion. It is worn. 1t is liked
and yet. il has certain limitations in
the fashionable world.
These are the three features that
compelled the woman who observed
the snapshot from a point of view Of
business to look upon it with a critical
expression
And the strange thing is that. while
economy had nothing to do with put
ting out of fashion any one of these
three garments. it came along at the
same time as their elimination through
other causes.
summer Outdoor Clothes.
The economical reasons for discard
ing the white linen shirt, the knitted
woollen sweater and the ornamental
white muslin blouse, are based on eX-
pensive laundry tariffs ard scarcity OF
material. plus scarcity of labor.
Those large sectors of American So
ciety that considered the three piece
costume the most reliable basis for
their summer wardrobes imagined
their taste simple and inexpensive. 1t
was neither To-day the propaganda
against non-essentials, and the con-
version of them into active service for
The sun., 1918-08-18
BATISTE RUFFLING.

GONE OK the prettiest white ruffiing
- for collars is made Of batiste Of
a fine sheer quality. combined
with narrow Valenciennes lace gath
cred on in little trllls. Fine tucks are
run between the landings Of the lace.
The sun., 1918-08-18

separate skirts are made from Scotch
plaid in pleated designs to carry out
the idea of the Highlander.
Rubber knitting bags for the bather
are a novelty shown in some OF the
shops. They are decorated with small
pictured fishes, and would really be a
most practical adjunct to the bather's
beach attire.
AS We draw nearer to autumn we
find that velvet will probably be much
used in the coming winter. 1t is a
warm fabric. and 1t Is at the same time
wool conservation fabric.
Some Of the smartest evening gowns
have girdles Of Jet.
Wide plaid ribbons are shown in the
shops. They are especially effective
for trimming big wide brmmed straw
hats>for country or beach wear. The
ribbon is simply held loosely around
the crown OF the hat and tied in a big
loose bow at the edge or near the
edge of the brim. This low arrange
ment Of the bow on the hat brim is
considered good.
From the point of view Of good
sense pure and simple we might wish
that shoes for autumn should not be
so thinly soled. Thicker soles are
warmer and drier and do not need
The sun., 1918-08-18
ODD WRINKLES THAT INDICATE THE LATEST FASHION
A S an alternative for the sweate,

n al ALTERNATIVE Tor the sweater
~ for chill days Of autumn and
for resort wear is the wide scarf
or brushed angora that is placed about
the shoulders and in a vestlike ar
rangement in front, with a narrow
leather belt to hold the scarf in about
the waist.
Although the back OF the waist Ia
thus left uncovered the small Of the
back and the shoulders, where one
| reels the cold most. are substantially
covered. Often the edge Of the Scarf
10 turned over so as to form a roll to
the collar and to the vestee portion in
the front.
Beach shawls, which gained consid-
| cradle vogue at fashionable resorts
this summer. are going to hold their
own and gain a good deal more in pom
ularlty this autumn. They are made
usually of brushed angora and are
ideal for just the needed bit of extra
warmth in the motor or for porch
wear when the wind blows a little
chill.
They are unbelievably soft In tex
| ture. Black apd white combinations
are good, but those of browns, greens
and blues are more adapted for knock
about wear. a generous one made Of
rich brown and purp.ish blue angora
with fringe at the edge Is sold for
IS7oo. or the same colors. but in less
New-York tribune., 1918-05-25

revenue to come in next year between
seven billion and eight billion dollars.
The basis of the bill desired by Sec
retary McAdoo will be to provide for
one-third the revenues of the govern
ment from taxation.
owe will collect" said Representa-
tive Garner. of Texas. a member of the
Ways and Means Committee, "33 Is
per cent of the expense Of the war
from the taxes. 1t is estimated the
expense for the next fiscal year will be
$24 ,0O0,0 900. One third of this
would be $4,000, 100000, which will
come from taxes, and the other two
thirds will como from loans"
Representative Garner said all bust
ness should get ready for the coming
legislation.
Business" he said, chad better get
individual industry should not be
taxed. One billion dollars must be
taken out Of business alone, and that
is more than any country has ever got
ten before in such a way from business
channels. There will be at least fifty
or sixty propositions as to lines Of
business to be taxed. Every non
essential business will be considered
as to the advisability of taxing it,"
The Republican attitude toward rev.
cnue legislation was set forth to- day
by Republican Leader Gillett of the
House, who announced that if new
revenue bill were necessary the Re-
publicans would cooperate in. it's enact
ncnt
New-York tribune., 1918-05-25
Joke by esprit"
Convicts a Pastor

Not all spirits are angelic, John Hill,
pastor of the Spiritual Church of Ad-
vanced Thought, 20 West Ninety-first
Street, sadly acknowledged yesterday
when he was found guilty as dis
orderly person in the West Side po-
lice court.
He intimated that it must have been
an un-angelic disembodied jokester that
directed his attention to Mrs. Mary A.
Sullivan, one of his Congregation" on
May 3 and impelled him to suggest to
her that she was worried over the loss
of jewels.
For, as it turned out. Mrs. Mary A.
Sullivan wasn't bothering about jewels
at all; in fact, she owned none, and
the expression of strain and concen-
tration on her countenance was due
simply to the fact that this was one
of her first Jobs as policewoman on
Deputy Commissioner Ellen O'Grady's
staff. All of which must have been
known to the impish spirit that caused
Mr.. Hill to present to Policewonhan
Sullivan just the evidence she wanted.
Or, perhaps, as Policewoman Sullivan
suggested, the spirit was feminist.
Anyhow, Mr.. Hill will be sentenced on
June 3, unless the appeal he intends to
take interferes
New-York tribune., 1918-05-25
Socialist Leaders
Assail Conviction
Of Mrs. Stokes
She Was Tried in an At
mospherc of Prejudice,
Hillquit Declares

julius Gerber, Morris Hillquit and
Crystal Eastman agreed yesterday that
the conviction of Mrs. Rose Pastor
Stokes was, to say the least, a mis-
take. Mr. Gerber characterized it as
m outrage, acknowledging in the same
breath tha. it would DE hard to get
twelve mcr together who would return
any other verdict.
Morris Hil'quit said Mrs. Stokes was
tried in ar atmosphere Of prejudice
and declared that until the United
States RECEIVERS from the hysteria char
acteristic Of the early stage of the war.
"honcst diasenters from the establishe d
government policy Will suffer"
81 consider the conviction Of Mrs.
Stokes an outrage" said Mr.. Gerber,
who is executive secretary of the New
York local Of the Socialist party. but
it would be hard to find jury broad
minded enough TO give any other ver-
dict.
1.-THE conviction of Mrs. Stokes will
increase the Socialist vote in this
country in the same ratio as socialism
in Germany was increased by the
measures taken by Bismarck against
the Socialists there.
81 consider the conviction of Mrs.
Stokes grave miscarriage Of justice,
said Mr. Hillquit.
81 have made thorough study Of the
law and the history of it's enactment
and am convinced it was intended pure
enemy governments actively and delib-
crately engaged in plots to interfere
with the military and naval operations
of the United States or to convey mill
tary secrets to the enemy. The law was,
i'll my opinion, never intended to pre-
vent, or even curtail, the expression Of
criticism OF the government in its war
policy or conduct, no matter how en-
phatic, violent or even unfounded such
criticism might be.
From the newspaper accounts OF
Mrs. Stokes's trial it seems clear she
was not tried for obstructing recruit
army or for any other crime under the
espionage law, but for her opinions on
the war and OH economic and social
conditions in the United States.
"She was tried in an atmo osphere OF
prejudice and hysteria, which, unfortu-
nately, at this time beclouds the Gus
tomery sense of American fairness and
Justice. Such a state of mind is not
! unnatural in the early stages of the
war In the mean time honest dissent
ers from the established govtrpment
policy will suffer"
! Miss Eastman's statement follows:
"The extremity of this conviction
demonstrates the danger of weakening
the constitutional provisions for free
speech. even in war time. While
recognize the danger of permitting un-
restricted free speech during war, be-
lieve this danger is not SO great as
that of tampering with constitutional
rights. Mrs. Stokes is not regarded as
an extreme radical, but rather as q
thoughtful, party Socialist"
New-York tribune., 1918-05-25
20 Steel Ships Is
Record Output for
Three Weeks i'm MAY
With Vessels Built by Allies,
Construction for Month
Will Exceed Losses

WASHINGTON, May 24.-Steel ships
completed thus far in May exceed the
output of any previous month in the
history of the Shipbuilding Board. The
total output up to and including May
% was twenty nine vessels of 174,661
tons. Four steel steamships, totalling
2S,200 tons, were delivered yesterday.
With the showing Of the first three
weeks officials believe that the out
put of the month, together with the
ships built in the yards of the Allies,
again will exceed the tonnage lost.
In the race with the submarine it
begins to appear that the lead taken
by the Allies in April as revealed in
Premier Lloyd Georges speech to-day
at Edinburgh, is certain to be main
Only some unforeseen and disastrous
interruption of work can retard the
output of halls. Workmen in the
American. yards are giving their best
efforts and lead the world in work
done. Shortages of material are being
overcome Lack of engines and boilers
apparently will be remedied by the sur
vey of manufacturing resources being
madc from Chicago.
1t y hoped also that the American
output of ships in May will set new
vessels delivered ready for sea, twenty
four had been requisitioned en- the
stocks and five were built on contract
The average daily output Of completed
ships has been 1884 tons.
Evidence of the energetic work being
Gone on the Pacific Coast was given in
the following telegram from the Skin
ner G. Eddy Co., of Seattle:
"West Apaum launched fifty-fve days
from laying of keel. This makes three
vessels launched within last five weeks,
two Of them in fifty-tive days, one in
tifty-scven Gays. viii launch another
vessel about June g."