davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
9lSd ILSSu9

frocks you may take or leave-that is your privilege; the prices are scarcely a matter for your consideration-at least that is what your manner may imply. And do not expect to see ten or a dozen lovely frocks, brought out by an attendant anxious to please, and heaped in a rainbow of color and simmer of light on chairs round about. No confection of the exclusive kind to which you will be treated would be thus outraged. From the recesses of some curtained alcove will glide a beautiful being sumptuously garmented; mannequin wearing a gown that it is hoped may appeal to your critical taste. After her slow passing-in that curious sauntering walk which is so hard to initiate there will come another mannequin in another frock. And another. and still another-until you are satisfied and make a choice. Or let us say, until you begin to get nervous and wonder how you are going to get out without buying and whether you will be able to retain that grand manner while pronouncing your dissatisfaction with all the models and your intention of looking elsewhere. It is a great expert ence to go gown-hunting at exclusive dressmaking houses. Try it, next time you are in New York, and see!
 The Simmer Of Jet And Crystal.
 l From a well known house whose
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

frock that is notable because of it's coloring and because of it's one-sided decolletage. The young woman holds a magnificent black ostrich feather fan which well she knows-doubtless- makes a splendid foil for her frock of marigold colored chiffon embroid- cred with crystal beads. Here again are the extremely simple lines of the season; just one or two layers of slightly gathered chiffon over slim petticoat of satin; a bit of satin swathed from armpit to waistline for a bodice, and over it length of chif- ion draped across one arm and under the other, obliquely across the should er-could anything simpler or easier of achievement be imagined? The un- derslip is of flesh tinted satin; over this is a yelling of pale yellow tulle; then comes the marigold chiffon with it's shimmering beads. And the black fan!
 Swathed Fabrics Emphasize Straight Silhouette.
 One would say that the trained gown of brocaded silver tissue was as straight up and down as bolster slip; yet cunning indeed must have
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

taurant dining women that the dealer in ready=made evening gowns looks for prosperous business.
 Stunning Evening Gowns For Private
 Entertainments.
 To the exclusive atelier of the pri- vate. dressmaker you must go these days if you are looking for something ravishing III evening gowns of the very latest mode. At these very smart places on Fifth avenue or on the side streets just off the avenue between the Waldorf and the Cathedral you will find plenty of enchanting dinner and dance gowns-and prices will be substantial enough to convince you of their distinction. Such gowns are not made for the average woman" the woman who depends upon restaurants and theatres for her social gaiety; but for the 'freal top notchers" as your London Cockney would say; and as Americans not in this particular charmed circle might say: "The four. hundred"
 In this strata of society an evening gown is quite an ordinary affair, nc more marked in interest than a cor rect travelling coat or the right sort of golf togs. One wears it-that is al after six o'clock, just as one wears tailored suit of a morning. There is nothing particularly exceptional about it-it must be ordered, just a!
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

manager is an English woman of title, came the two lovely dinner dance gowns shown together in one picture and the gowns have been photo graphed on the mannequins, just as they were shown in the shop. These costumes were supposed to be suitable for a mother and daughter and though both glimmer and gleam with the light thrown back from facets of innumer- able tiny beads, each frock exquisite ly conveys it's idea; the one a costume of elegance and gracious distinction for the older woman; the other a charming expression of the daintiness and freshness of youth. The matron's gown is of jet beaded black net over an underslip of chantilly yelled with black tul1e. White lace of delicate texture veils the shoulders and crosses the bust, above layers of white tulle. The young girls frock is of white iridescent beaded tulle over flesh tint ed chiffon and arms and decolletage are partly yelled by a long, floating scarf of flesh tinted tulle.
 The One Sided DecoIletage.
 A seated figure wears a dinner dance
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
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of course. The charm is a small locket about the size of a five-cent piece. On one side is a symbolic guar dian angel carrying victory and peace; on the other the cross and United States shield with the words. God Preserve the Wearer'' Inside the locket-well anybody can guess what will be inside the locket!
 There is a great deal of patriotic" jewelry of course, and some of it is handsome enough to be lifted above the mere trinket class. There are red, white and blue bracelets, for instance; not a single bracelet, but three slender bands worn together, one set with rubies, another with diamonds, the third with Australian sapphires. Of course, the wearer must be careful to slip on her bracelets always in the right way-frst the ruby one, next the diamond band and third the blue sap phires. A charming bracelet has sep arate links showing the flags of the Allies, each link being a dainty little flag wrought in colored enamel. The wartime bride wears as a guard for her brand-new wedding circlet, not the usual solitaire, but three narrow platinum bands, set like the bracelet mentioned above, with red, white and blue gems.
 A new piece of jewelry is the coat collar pin, longer than an ordinary lace pin or veil pin, and designed to hold the convertible coat collar to- gether when it is folded high about the throat. When the collar is open, the long pin is thrust through one of the revers. These pins come in the shape of arrows and some of them are set with jewels. Dainty lace pins for fastening summer fichus and jabots are of platinum in true-lovers- knot shape.1and these imbedded with diamonds -or pale blue sapphires are favorite goodbye" gifts from depart l ing soldiers to sweethearts left behind | Jewellery for wear with evening
 gowns partakes of the simplicity and | dignity which influences all dress just
 now. A new neck ornament shows
 two pendants on the conventional
 slender chain, or sautoir; one pendant
 at the front, the other at the back of the neck. An ornament of this sort is pictured, the reflection In a
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

however handsome they are, is con- sidered the worst of bad taste, and though all the pearls she could load on are permissible to this young wom- an who is posing for an illustration of fashionable jewelry, half as many pearls would be a correct amount for any social entertainment. Without the earrings, for instance, the neck lace would be much more impressive: and two valuable pearl rings in addi- ton to a costly pearl brooch would be rather an excessive allowance for the well-dressed woman. But well chosen pearl ornaments are extremely smart and rare is the woman who does not look lovelier in pearls than in the more glittering jewels. A handsome string of pearls is the longing of every feminine heart, whether ones partic- ular ambition is for $30,000 string of genuine pearls, or a $50 string of very good "composition"Np "Npearls. Some of the latter are so beautiful in color and luster that a princess might be proud to wear them. These compost tion pearls have good weight too and weight is the measure of com parison between pearls and pearls-a point as important as color or luster.
 The young woman in the picture wears earrings that are very smart in Paris just now; long, slender pendants. Pearls, sapphires and aqua marine stones are fancied for these swinging ear ornaments.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

any other costume must be ordered, when one requires it. As for being unduly gay, or frivolous in wartime or any time-because one wears the customary costume at dinner hour and afterward; why surely, this would seem a rather far-fetched and over strained conclusion! And since there must be frocks when old ones wear out, dressmakers must supply new ones. There is the whole thing in nutshell.
 Shopping For A Dance Gown On Fifth
 Avenue.
 So, being in need of an evening gown for some special spring occasion perhaps a wedding that you are to attend; perhaps a dance to be given for war relief charity; perhaps an an- ticipated weekend visit at a big coun- try house where smart raiment will be worn-you set forth on round of visits to the very exclusive dressmak- ing houses for your little evening frock." And if you crave utmost at- tention from Madam and her minions, the pretty mannequins who display the frocks, by all means arrive in a taXi-or better still in borrowed limousine-and cultivate your grand. est manner Do not make the mistake of slipping in as a pedestrian and ask. ing timidly to see evening frocks. And above all, do not mention prices. The
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
TheLuXurygLamps

MA OTHING GIVES such a note of VI distinction and luxury to a room-with the exception per @ A haps of Oriental rugs-as well chosen lamps. Look carefully at the handsome interiors pictured in maga- zines devoted to home decoration and note the number of lamps in rooms that are presented as models of ele- gance and taste. Sometimes you will discover as many as five or six lamps In a single room, and usually there are two or three at least. Twin lamps, placed at either end of a long living room table seem to be very fashion able, and give charming effect when lighted. Very valuable as furnishing features are the tall floor lamps, and there are countless table lamps of unique and artistic design. By all means have oil lamps if your house if not supplied with electricity and the gas fixtures do not come in the right place for the lamps; and speak ing of oil lamps, nothing is more de- lightful and more expressive of studi- ous and intellectual pursuits than the old-style student lamp with twin lights and oil font between. One of these lamps can give an aIr-an at- mosphere-to a library that no costly silk-shaded electric lighting fixture could hope to emulate.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

@A RINKETS AND TALISMANS, A jewel-set, are natural develop A ments of a war season. For " every trim young lieutenant at the front there is a girl at home wear ing some sort of charm or ornament that holds for it's wearer more of sen timental than intrinsic value-how- ever great the intrinsic value may be. And for almost every girl back home there is a soldier somewhere who wears a talisman of sorts-a ring or charm or even only a wrist-watch that is symbolic of somebody's interest in his achievements and his welfare.
 Jewelry just now is rich rather than ostentatious. A single handsome ring is in better taste than several glitter ing baubles, though it is quite true that the single ring may represent a sum exceeding that of several, worn in other times. Australian sapphires are the vogue of the moment in jewels and these stones are cleverly cut by the French method so that the deep blue color is brought out most marvelously in certain lights. The old method of cutting the Australian sapphire was clumsy and often the stone had Eo more color than a bit of onyx, but the new French-cut sapphires, espe- | cially when combined with diamonds are wonderfully beautiful. They are used in rings, earrings and pendants for the neck and the favorite setting | is platinum or white metal with an | outlining rim of diamonds. A large ring showing a rectangular Australian sapphire set in a frame of small bril-
 liants, is pictured on the hand of one of the seated figures-the hand toying with fan. The other ring on thi. hand is a talisman ring with a dia
 mond incrusted setting that lifts III
 on a tiny hinge to show a hidder
 miniature portrait. Very naturally
 these locket-rings as they are called
 are popular just now. The shank O
 the ring must be heavy to afford room for even a tiny portrait under the set
 ting and most such rings are of mascu
 line type. Sometimes the top of tn,
 setting is engraved with the giver'
 monogram, or it may hold a fiat slal
 of black onyx surrounded by pearls
 Black and white settings are extreme
 ly smart and onyx and pearls make
 handsome combination of the sort.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

The girl who has a sweetheart at the front, or in camp, really prefers to wear heavy, obviously masculine ring of this type to the daintiest, jewel set feminine type of ring; and she is specially proud to wear her lovers own ring-one of the big, massive service rings that are like the class rings of West Point and Annapolis, which have for long been cherished acquisitions of army and navy maid ems. These new service rings are of gold or silver with the emblem of service engraved on the shank and the flat top bearing the owners mon ogram. In exchange for the loan of this service ring, the girl back home gives her sweetheart in khaki or navy blue uniform little charm that is supposed to bring him luck when car ried in his pocket or worn about his neck-under his smart military tunic
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

mirror showing the pendant worn at the back. Both pendants, or as they are called in Paris, macarons, are of exquisitely beautiful workmanship, platinum in light and graceful forms being set with small diamonds. A sautoir shown in another illustration supports a macaron of platinum set with several pale blue French sap phires of various sizes. In this illus tration are shown, also, two very handsome rings; one locket-ring and the other an onyx and diamond ring with setting in the shape of Maltese cross.
 A third picture tells something about the popularity of pearls; but do not fancy that such burden of pearls would be worn by the average we'll dressed woman on any one occasion. Overlooking with any sort of jewels.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
Stamped Pinafores To Embroider

~XACTLY LIKE the paper doll A frocks one used to make, both sides cut alike by folding the
 - paper, and an opening shipped out for dollie's head to pass through, are little stamped pinafores for chill dren; the tiny garment ready shaped, with short kimono sleeves, and only needing to be sewed together down the side seams after the embroidery is done. A pretty design of festooned flowers and scallops is stamped on each side of the pinafore, above a scalloped edge: a similar design is stamped on the short. kimono sleeves, and more stamping outlines a collar motif around the neck. The pinafore opens in a scalloped slash down the back and tiny buttons and buttonholes og L-0n% will affect a fastening. These
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
NEW COLLARS EXTEND BELOW
 THE BELT LINE

70 HE MOST sensational collar yet A is on Paris suit of dark blue & tricot serge. The collar, after ~ finishing off the top of the coat in approved style and unexaggerated manner, wanders on down the front to the waistline where it's ends cross and slip through slashes in the jacket belt and then continue to the hips where they button to the skirt and make pockets. There was some question in the observers mind as to how the wearer of that coat would get out of it, and whether the pocket would have to be unbuttoned and the end of the collar pulled up through the belt each time; but it was discovered that the effect was camouf1age in a way-the collar did not really pass through the belt but only appeared to, the above and-below-the-belt sections being quite separate.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

and dainty frock. Another model is of pink net and pink organdy, the skirt of organdy and over it an apron tunic of the net with several
 ruff1es of net. The bodice of organdy has a deep, ruff1ed fichu of net and the sash is of net with a narrow ruff1e all around and three ruff1es on the ends which fall over the net apron.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
Following the French Fashion of Yelling Arms and Neck With TuIle = Lace Gowns In Black, In White and In Yelled Black or White Extreme ly Smart . Beads Add Their Glitter.

EA OTABLE EVENING GOWNS are not as easy to find as they were
 a few months ago. The shops v k do not abound with them now, though one always expects to find a stunning decollete costume or two, con- spicuously displayed to prove that readiness to supply this or any other sort of wanted costume is as complete as ever. But the fact re- mains that fewer expensive gowns of the type mentioned are carried now in stock than used to be the case. The average woman is not wearing so many evening gowns-since social af- fairs have been curtailed during war time-and it is, of course, the average woman to whom the big store caters. Moreover, very pronounced evening toilettes are not being worn these days in the public restaurants-there seems to be a sort of sentiment against it.
 All restaurant gowns have sleeves of a sort, though the sort is often not more than a filmy layer of tulle or a wisp of lace; but the costume must suggest semi-evening gown rather than a full fledged one to meet the moments requirement of good taste and it is upon the vast army of res
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

little pinafores. or frocks-if you like to call them so-are of good quality batiste and will make much more ex- elusive afternoon costumes for wee girls than machine-stitched. lace trimmed frocks of more ambitious style but without the hand work that counts for so much in distinction.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
A GOOD GARDEN APRON.

The best garden apron is of strong canvas with deep pockets like a shoe bag for gloves, trowel, twine and shears. The apron should not be too long, else it will get under the knees as one works on the kneeling pad be- fore the garden beds. Unbleached canvas with bindings and strappings of red plaid -gingham makes an at tractive apron.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24
COVERT CLOTH COATS AGAIN

T~ ERE IT IS AGAIN, almost ex- #A actly like what is used to be.
 Fl W a dozen years or so ago when e covert coats were the ne plus ultra of spring smartness! Here it is, in the attractive light tan covert color, with smooth, crisp lines and with seams emphasized by bias strappings of the material-just replica of the coat you possessed, and took such
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

comfort in, years and years ago. At least that is what you think when the saleswoman brings it out and assures you it is the very latest thing from Paris, launched a few weeks ago by Martial ct Armand, and a sensation of the spring openings. But when you put the coat on you realize that your silhouette does not look at all like that silhouette of yore, covert-coated. Then you had pronounced curves-a bust and hips. None of these are noticeable now, in the new Paris-in- spired covert top coat Its lines are slim and svelte with beautiful flat ness down the back and over the bust, and it has the same pleasant crisp ness and freshness of suggestion that made it so admirable a garment for spring wear, when it was in fashion years agone. Small doubt that the covert top coat will find immediate favor when it has really established 1 itself as a spring arrival.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

~ HE GIRL WHO is clever at home
 A dressmaking should fashion for
 A herself this year one of the en-
 VI chanting little summer dresses which combine organdy and shirrcd net. Neither material is expensive yet the two together give an effect of dainty distinction and elegance. One of these pretty frocks, shown in a New York store, is of pale blue or gandy and white shirred net-ordi- nary cotton net which comes two yards wide at sixty or seventy cents the yard. The whole skirt consists of alternate bands of organdy and shirred net and the organdy bodice has a round neck with a 'drawn-up tuck of shirred net and net sleeves with bands of the blue organdy set in at the elbow above ruff1es of the net. A blue ribbon sash finishes this simple
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-24

been the cut that evolved this won derful straight gown that yet curves so softly and subtly to the lines of the figure. The material is silver and pale blue brocade in a shimmering, shot weave that throws up the de- sign in pure silver on a blue silver ground. Under the train is lining of figured chiffon in deep blue and orchid tones. A scarf of orchid tulle veils the decolletage at the back and floats about the arms and figure to the end of the train. This gorgeous, and rather daring frock, was built in Paris for youthful American ma tron-a bride of this season.
 A typical restaurant frock, formal enough for the evening yet in accord with the reserved taste of the times in costumes for public dining places, is pictured in the model of lace over very pale mauve chiffon. The flowing sleeve and gathered-in skirt give the | costume an Oriental suggestion. A 1 dainty detail is the embroidery of twin wreaths in faint pinks and greens on | the pale lavender sash; a similar em- broidery showing through the chiffon l outer bodice.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1918-05-09
SKIN DISEASES

parts of the body. Salt Rheum
discharges a watery fluid, form
ing sores and producing intense
itching.
These and all skin diseases
are due to the same thing
burning acids and humors in the
blood, and until this vital fluid
is cleansGd and made pure they
will continue. ExtS~nal applica-
tions of salves and lotions can
not reach the trouble for it is in
the blood. The best treatment
for all skin diseases is S. S. s..
remedy that is purely vege-
table, being made entirely from
roots, herbs and barks, and acts
directly on the blood with a
cleansing, healing effect. 1t
neutralizes the acids and puri-
fies the skin, instead of being
blistered and burned by the fiery
fluids, is nourished by supply
of cooling, healthy blood. 1t
goes down into the circulation
and forces out every particle OF
waste or foreign matter, builds
up the blood and relieves all skin
diseases promptly and perma-
nently. S. S. S. does not leave
the least particle of the poison
for future outbreaks, but entire
ly rids the blood of the cause for
all skin diseases.
Nothing equals S. S. S. in the
treatment of these troubles and
for building up the general
health. Get a bottle of S. S. S..
from the drug store today and
begin a treatment that will
bring real relief. Write for our
treatise on skin diseases and any
medical advice free. Address
400 Swift Laboratory, Atlanta.
Ga.-adv.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1918-05-09
WOMEN'S SOCIETY
HAS GOOD MEETING

The Woman's Missionary Society OF
the First Methodist church held very
pleasant and profitable meeting on
Tuesday afternoon, between forty and
fifty ladies being present.
Miss Carriers lecture on canning, dry
ing and home economics was most en-
joyable and instructive.
Miss Landrum's speech on womans
part in the Liberty Loan was said by
the pastor of the church to have been
among the best he had ever heard
while the stirring solo Loyalty to the
u. S. A." by Mrs. Briefly. made ones
blood tingle, and Mrs. McReynolds' pa
triotic reading stirred UP the spirit OF
'76 within all who heard it. Mrs. Nc
Allister, too, charmed all with one OF
her best selections.
A resolution calling upon our repre-
sentatives and senators to vote FOR the
war time prohibition bill, now before
congress. was unanimously adopted
and signed by all present. Tho' thrift
stamps, amounting to about Si15 were
turned in, to be applied on the church
debt
After partaking of delicious fruit
punch and sandwiches. end enjoying a
season of pleasant social intercourse,
the meeting adjourned to meet again
next Tuesday, the program to celebrate
Mothers Day.