davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1918-01-13

our clothes will cling to the figure. OF
another thing we are not quite certain.
that the silhouette will be straight.
The tendency toward wrapped gowns
and toward oriental movement of fabric
around the body is too strong and i'm
portant to be overlooked. 1t Is quite
probable that the designers will offer
1t as a means of making the straight
silhouette look out of fashion
X X
The extraordinary success of the
Spanish movement in clothes in New
York, which has come about from the
stage and the new dances. accentuates
the draping of the figure on. the bias.
It will be interesting to see whether
one silhouette has a marked victory
over the other. or whether the battle
between the two becomes stalemate
throughout the spring and summer. To-
day the draped figure is on the offensive.
The straight silhouette is making a
good defensive. All Of which is excel
lent for the people who sell clothes.
There is little possibility that our
clothes will flare. but there is no prob
ability that they will be attenuated. A
scarcity of wool does not mean a
scarcity Of other fabrics.
There is no evidence of a shortage in
the comon weaves Of silk. satin. crepe
and jersey, and the early spring models
shown by the New York shops for the
southern season embody these materials
in clothes that cling to the figure, but
are not scanty.
The materials chosen for the new
spring gowns are admirable adjuncts
Of the new movement. Crepe de chine
and tussah are in the lead, whereas
satin is somewhat shelved for every
thing hut evening gowns,
1t has been rumored that Paris has
been withdrawing favoritism from satin
and putting out other materials in it's
place since last September. and it is
more than probable that America will
follow this lead from now on. There
fore, II you have a satin day costume
make the most of 1t.
Will the spring season see too much
Evening star., 1918-01-13
THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.

The following list, arranged by sub
jects includes some of the latest addi-
tions to the Public Library.
The lists which appear in this column
each Sunday are reprinted. at the end OF
the month. in the library's monthly bull
letin. Copies OF this may be obtained
free at the library. or will be sent by
mail for Is cents a year.
Biography.
Brooks, Walter. A Child and a Boy. 1915.
E-B794.
Davis, n. II. Adventures and Letters E-Ue96.
O'Brien, p. OBJ. Baron. The. "Reminiscences
Of the Right Honorable Lord O'Brien. E-ob643
Orcutt. W. d. Burrows Of Michigan and the
Republican Party. 2v. E-Bs4so.
Rogers. H. W. Francis Asbury. Centennial
Addresses. E-As12r.
Economics, Civics and Sociology.
the Negroes of Georgia. HINBsl6e:
Chandler. George. and Cherry. ]. L. Iowa and
the Nation. JT912-C363i.
Cushman. Il. E. Excess Condemnation. JWP-
-Hobson. J. A. The Evolution of Modern Cap
Hopkins. Tighe. The Romance Of Escapes.
Lansbury, George. Your Part in Poverty. HF-
Metcalfe, A. E. Woman's Effort. KWz-M58sw.
Mollica, Pasquale. and Nicoletti. A. u, comps
Guida Tascabile per rItaliano in America. JTss-
Noyes. T. W. District of Columbia Arairs.'
Roper. ). o. The United States Post once.
stourm, Rene. The Budget. HT-stz7bE.
Waldstein. Sir Charles. Aristodemocracy. 10
WA.
Education.
pefrenbaugh, W. 8. Current Practice in City
School Administration. IPo-D364c
Montessori, Maria. The Advanced Montessori
Method. 2v. IKH-M76Sa.E E.
Norris T. NJ The Story of Princeton. IXs3Pr-
MIA.
Randall Eduea.ixe and EeOn9m,s ..aad;, Pos,
Richmond, Indiana. IRX-R155e.
Roberts, Il. L. Medical Inspection Of Schools
in Great Britain. IRP R547m.
Science and Learning in France. 1k38-Sci23.
How to Teach IP-sts2sh..
struthers. Mrs. l. n. The School Nurse. IRP-
United States Bureau Of Education. Negro
Education. 2v. IZN-Un30n.
Vassar College. The Fiftieth Anniversary of
International Relations.
Bancroft. h. b. In These Latter Days. JUss-
Liebnecht K. P. A. F.. Militarism. Jo-Ls22m.
Quin, Malcolm. Problem Of Human Peace.
Russell. B. A. W. Political Ideals. J-Rs1sp.
Tagore, Rabindranath, Sir. Nationalism. JAY
T124n.
United States. President. 1913-Wilson. Great
Speeches. Jvs3- -Un48. Ref.
Veblen, 4. B. An Inquiry into the Nature Of
Peace and the Terms Of Its Perpetuation. 10
v495i.
Science and Natural History.
Bayiey. v. d. Descriptive Mineralogy. ND
Hrssiich. 1. r. Third Year Mathematics for
Secondary .sehpols. III B55Shs
Evening star., 1918-01-13
Reviews of New Books

has been believed-and disbelieved-
that this obviously honest though parti-
san, point OF view adds substantially to
the evidence that has accumulated in
such bulk around this historic woman.
MY HOME IN THE FIELD OF MERCY.
By Frances Wilson Huard, author
of MY Home in the Field of
Honour" Drawings by Charles Huard.
New York: George H. Doran Com
pany.
This book is a sequel. or continua-
tion, of Mrs. Huards MY Home in the
Field of Honour" That earlier story
Huards swept straight across by the
fierce war swarth-the house itself de-
spoiled, defaced and contaminated by
deliberate ill-usage and abominable
filth. That is the realistic story of
French family and neighborhood
caught up in the whirlwind of war. The
interests of this book center also
around the Huard estate. with the
house in measure rehabilitated and
turned to the uses of an army hospi-
tai. Here are hundreds of vivid little
brought to Hospital No. T." with in
Vulnerable sketches of case, and tenn
perament, and incident, coming to-
gether in a graphic ensemble of hos
pital work in the war zone. Mrs. Huard
writes with an easy informality that
carries one forward by way of intimate
and simple experiences, which put one
in very close touch with this home in
the field of mercy This Is the stamp
Of the whole story. 1t is all simple and
unpretentious. all intimate and posses
sed of no other purpose than to: give.
as well as print may be made to do
this. exact pictures of the life at
Hospital No. g." The illustrations. as
effective as they are beautiful. are by
Mrs. Huard's husband, Charles Huard,
official painter Of the war in the sixth
army of France.
SUCCESS EASIER THAN FAILURE.
By E. w. Howe. author of THE
Story Of Country Town." etc.
Topeka: Crane & Co.
A little book of solid sense-made for
the coat pocket-handy of reach and
ready with the straight word for many
a perplexing point of departure. 1t
breaches. boldly. the gospel Of success
Ia complete riGht-about, you see, from
there is something decidedly shady
about personal prosperity and indi-
vidual achievement. Success, we are re-
minded minded; is simply a by.prodaettof the
moral age. Industry. thrift. a growing
directive intelligence, kindness. adapta-
bflity and good manners--these lie at
the bottom Of the present collective
moral outlook. They are also the basis
Of worldly success. Therefore. success
is inherently Of the spirit OF the
times," and. by virtue Of this Identity.
easier than failure. Such. at any rate,
10 the way this writer makes 1t appear
AZ the same time. and as part Of this
peotf4m Of success, he leads one to see
that this d, after all, Q simple world,
| tend that gr4et gsniua q. not required to
paaaEataRa = an9 @Al6a IaaA aS itds-
Evening star., 1918-01-13

spite the contrary view to which dream
ers. and philosophers and geniuses have
led US. 1t is just a straight road to the
individual, with life's rewards hanging
joins the great majority along this lift
ing highway. With no very gentle
hand the writer overthrows many a
cherished conceit, and bundles Off with
out apology all manner of PROPOSES
slons about the complexity, the mys-
terry, the generally baking forces Of
world that has been allowed to steep
itself in tradition till its own vitalizing
juices have become well nigh destroyed.
1t is worth good deal to come across a
fearless man who sees straight and
dares to talk straight. too.
A. VISION REALIZED, Life Story
of j. A. Oertel. ID. d. By j. F. Ger
tel. Milwaukee: The Young Church
man Company.
Happily. this writer was able to per-
NIT his father-the subject of this
study-to construct his own biography,
as it were. That is to say, out of the
large body of frst-hand material left
by Rev. J. A. Oertel his son has pro-
duced this vivid and impressive life
story. These letters, reflections, bits
of recorded experience, addresses and
sermons serve TO place this artist,
priest and missionary before one in the
most life1ike manner conceivable And
man comes the clear effect of his high
courage and generally optimistic out
look. The emphasis in this work is
placed upon J. A. Oertels career as art
.ist. an evangelizing career, sprung from
a deeply religious nature. career that
appears to have included in its mission
that of priest and missionary as well
as the paramount one of artist There
eavn N,%, ntSE - Il
of the paintings Of Mr.. Oertel, as the
capital city possesses something like
half a dozen of them. in as many Of the
churches of the city. ]. F. Oertel. the
writer. does his part in this life story
with keen sympathy and delicate in
tuition. He enjoys it. too. This is evil
dent throughout. And this pleasure is
communicable. adding to the readers
enjoyment of the facts of the narrative
and of the clear personality Of the man.
sourced in the appreciation of the son
and biographer.
MARK TIDD, EDITOR. BY Clarenca
Budington Kelland, anthor OF Mark
Tidd in the Backwoods." etc. illus
trated. New York: Harper & Bros
That boys body runs to fat is no
sure sign that his brain also takes this
unhappy turn. Mark Tidd is a case in
point. Physically. our old friend Mark
Is the genuine fat boy. but this particu-
lar tale Is wholly given over to evil
dence that young Tidd's brain Is 100
per cent gray matter. with not even
the suggestion of adipose tendency to
interfere with its operations. The story
Is record of Marks adventure In Jour-
nalism. The Wicksville Trumpet had
already died of starvation. Mark res
urrected this dead-and gone sheet and
put 1t on its feet. Moreover. he set 1t
such pace that the weekly issues of
the Trumpet kept. not only the home
town. but the outlying hamlets for
miles around, in a state Of frenzied ex-
citement over its actual performances
and its well calculated promises. While
itor and general manager was turning
ont the Wicksyills TruNDet with Tho
Evening star., 1918-01-13

other he was brushing away competi-
tors in the press business; staging
plays whose objective was an thrush of
advertisements to keep the Trumpet in
good state of health; untangling an
old mystery of the neighborhood in
regular Sir Conan Doyle fashion, and
rescuinE an innocent heir apparent
from the bedevilments Of a pair of ras-
Gals. BY turning his various side esca-
pades at their most critical turnings
| into news for Wicksville readers, this
thrifty herculean youngster made one
hand wash the other, SO to speak. 1t is
a story made up of flrst-rate fun. Yes,
1t does taste a bit Of the infant prodigy
but the boy psychology is on per-
fectly straight here and this is sup
ported by that inexhaustible fund of
curiosity and energy and invention that
sets the boy off from the rest of the
human family. Mark Tidd may be a
prodigy. but he is-so much sheer boy
with 1t all that one keeps right on lik-
ing him better with each new appear
ance.
HERSELF. HIMSELF, MYSELF. By
Ruth Sawyer, author OF THE Prfm-
rose Ring" etc. New York: Har-
per & Bros.
1t Is Myself who tells this story
and Myself is the old nurse and
guardian angel and patron saint and
every other beneficent influence rolled
into one. for the happiness and general
being of Herself. When the story
opens Herself is only a little girl,
watched over by the faithful nurse
who. out of pure love. took care of the
ness-foolish father had set. but who.
upon dying, had left no wherewithal
for its continuance. The story has to
do with the girls discovery of this
Il Nd hn hot clA
to counteract the effects of the long
deception. Not until the adventure
shifts to Ireland from the United States.
however. is its happiest essence re-
piece of almost pure Irishry. The face
of the island. it's mysterious and age
|oid beliefs ingrained in the soil and
the hearts Of the people, the particular
Irish character. the incidents made up
in equal parts of fact and fahcy-these
are of a piece with the grace and deli
cacy and charm that SO clearly marked
fair and engaging pattern serves as the
thread upon which are strung also the
fresh and interesting happenings that
surround and. in great measure, sus-
tain 1t.
SLAVES OF THE LAMP. By George
Bronson-Howard, author of Gods
Man." etc. Illustrations by Arthur
e. Becher. New York: w. ]. Watt
& Co.
The theme Of this adventure is
conspiracy whose point is to secure
possession of the secret formula for
turning opium into that specially Sc
ductive intoxicant made use of by SO
many of the dives Of the underworld.
There are in the world. it appears,
four certain jade plates upon which
this secret formula is carved-the only
record of the process in existence.
These, by accident. have become widely
scattered. And this adventure is the
story Of Yorke Norroy. secret agent, Id
and intrigues multiply around these
eRAsiye objects. Now they are sepa-
r. deed hy half the world and now. In
Evening star., 1918-01-13
Fashions and Fads.

Windsor ties are in favor.
Fur appears on straw hats.
Fashion calls for white siIkA
Gray snow is the color Of . nsw vsfl
The latest lingerie is tho simpaes4
Trench tan is ono Of tho nsw ooaerA
Black 3et b effectively used O ~
serga
E1ddiss win wear sman hats sn a.
spring.
Bnms turn up % many se eaD sprans
hats
Beaded bags are often made Win Azaw-
strings.
Smart crepe blouses arc pink and hish
Gray is emphasized in spring color
Novelty voiles are printed on dark
grounds.
Turquoise blue is favored for southern
wear.
New frocks are marked by a wartime
simplicity.
Pink silk null is revived for evening
dresses.
Afternoon hats are apt to be Of long
nap plush
Lingerie blouses will be very important
for spring.
Smart wraps are actually being made
of jersey cloth.
Rather stiff ornaments are used on the
new millinery.
Dull and brilliant black are combined In
smart frockS.
Poinsettia scarlet is one OF tho shades
used for children. -
1t is to be a season Of sport clothes for
young women.
Pompadour silks for evening arc made
up with tight skirts.
Drapery seems to be the order Of tho
latest spring fashions.
Smart military frocks are very much in
evidence for children.
Black satin is charmingly decorated with
white crystal beads.
Flowers make pretty girdle for tho
young girls evening dress.
A rich looking gown is made Of black
velvet. trimmed with fur.
| White serge trimmed with red velvet
flowers makes a novel dress
Lingerie hand embroidered in the Philip
pines is having great vogue.
Pique collars are used on the smartese
of dresses for the little girl.
1t is hinted that there will be an en-
tire change Of silhouette for spring.
There are many red straw hats among
the sports hats for southern wear.
It is a pretty idea to use heavy cord
for the girdle and tie of child'S dress.
Evening star., 1918-01-13

Jersey? Appearances point to that con-
dition. The material has been featured
so heavily since the first of December
that women are looking. at it a bit
considerable quantity throughout the
spring. although no one can say whether
it's first prestige will remain.
The suits of it are good. One In heavy
black weave has a short, narrow skirt
tucked in slightly at the, hem to re-
semble trousers, a fashion which has
grown apace since Christmas. The long.
straight coat has an eighteenth century
waistcoat of tan-colored crepe de chine,
and the deep collar and cuffs are en-
broidered with tan and black. As a mat
ter of interest, the woman who wore
this suit added to it the smart English
striped woolen stockings and black and
white shoes.
A woman who has returned from Lor-
don tells me that silk stockings really
look shoddy over there. All the women
who make any pretensions to style
wear the woolen ones. There are plenty
of these for sale in America, and there
are four months in which they may be
worn before the warm weather arrives
Jersey is used not only for adult ,ap-
parel, but has spread downward into
juvenile clothes and nursery frocks Of
pink and blue jersey are quite smart
1t was not possible for American fash
ions to avoid the military influence, al
though there was pressure against it
here as in France. Old and half-forgot-
ten wars gave the designers Inspiration,
but the present war was too vital to in
1fuence dress at this hour.
However. there are certain garments
that have been taken up by women and
put into high fashion which are dis
tinctly drawn from the battlefront in
France.
One is the swinging cape and wrapped
turban Of horizon blue cloth. Another
is the high boot or puttee that reaches
nearly to the knees and is worn on the
street; and third-and this is the most
Evening star., 1918-01-13
MARK TwAIN'S LETTERS. Arranged
by Albert Rigelow Paine. Illustrat.
ed. New York: Harper & Bros.

~- 3ITHIN these two attractive
wv volumes Mr.. Paine has
AAx brought together in an or
w derly arrangement the let
ters of Mark Twain. To
these he has added. also. such comment
rs is here and there required to place
any group or section of these letters in
their own proper setting of outside cir
eifmstance or event. A Geographic sketch
Of Twain. besides. contributes to the
general completeness of this work. The
time-order selected by Mr.. Paine as the
ground-plan of this collection. permits
ono to follow the course of Mark
Twain's life, in Geographic fashion, but
with far more intimacy than any mere
biography can effect Indeed. there is
nothing else in literature quite SO COM
p1etely the man himself as that mans
letters. drawn Off from the daily con-
Germs of his existence and set out with
. freedom that a more formal mode of
expression cannot achieve. Therefore.
in these volumes one possesses the joy
of actual contact with the unique man
OF letters that Twain was. And the
contact includes a host of associations
that set him in a richly wide field Of
friendship in a region Of pure Ameri-
canism. The book is an indispensable
supplement to the formal biography of
Twain. self-revelation of the inherent
nature Of the man himself.
MEMOIRS OF THE PRIVATE LIFE
OF MARIE ANTOINETTE. BY
Jeanne Louise Henriette Campan.
Illustrated. New York: Brentano's.
A complete work. which. in addition to
the recollections themselves. contains a
Geographic sketch Of Nine Campan. an
Introduction by J. Holland Rose, and a
genealogical table for the exact placing
Of the period and the people described
herein. Nine. Campan's great qualiflca-
fiou ~ part of the royal household.
whose central pathetic figure was the
queen herself. This advantage point
etvss both authenticity and intimacy to
leetion Of little pictures. sketches, fash
lights. whose design it Is to round into
y whole the court life Of France at the
moment Of fts dissolution. Another point
Of value hero is that Mime. Campan pos
possessed by It, In fact. She sees France
On It's government and politics, and one
Aided social organization from the stand
point OF the arfstocrat There is litera-
/. furs in. abundance from the other side,
but not such an overflow from the side of
tie royallsE This fact gives the book in
hand anFextra value Nine. Campan is
not .th9 brilliant and versatile French
woms4 that one has met. more than
once. d French letters. But she is faith
mi 1ed painstaking,. honest In her views
hAA 8ut1poken In her beliefs. even though
4lla0o b always On the side Of the throne
eE E4noA 40 much has heen ssid-And
1fe<te etoinette = Nnch
Evening star., 1918-01-13
Short Night.
From Eyerybody's Magazine.

From Everybody's Magazine. ~
A trainload of newly drafted men
reached their cantonment late in the
afternoon. BY the time they had
passed through the receiving station
and the hands Of the doctors. 1t was
nearly midnight. Several Of them were
awakened at o'clock the following
morning to assist the cooks In prepAr-
ing breakfast. As one well built. oleepy
drafted man got to his feet, he stretch.
ed and yawned:
'It doesn't take long to spend = night
in the army"
Evening star., 1918-01-13

dominant fashions the new official
canteen coat.
the Red Cross, but who is there in this
country today who hasn't the right to
place q small or large Croix Rouge
on the costume? The last
drive caught almost every one in its
This coat has been designed by a 6th
Evening star., 1918-01-13
AND CUFFS

ready when she is accused Of extraya-
gance and waste in the changing of
fashions and the buying of new clothes.
Let her point to the tnnumerable pieces
Of wool which are scattered over mans
costume and which are unnecessary.
Possibly he has never noticed the ex-
trayagance of his clothes. Perhaps he
knows nothing Of wool conservation in
garments. He may think that the whole
Evening star., 1918-01-13

situation Is up to the women. Enlighten
him. By the time it is pointed out to
him that he is unpatriotic because his
flap on his pocket is too long and of no
service. he will begin to tell his tailor
that things must be altered.
Throwing the searchlight on mems
clothes is delighting the heart Of wom-
en-. Let the good work go on.
OF one thing we are all certain; that
Evening star., 1918-01-13
Beneath Him.

From the Boston Transcript.
But didn't Opportunity ever knock
at your door?"
Probably"
"And you didn't answer it?'
II? OF course not. What 4Ao you
think the servants are Tor? sslsss
Evening star., 1918-01-13
Her sartorial Prospects.

From the Boston Transcript
She-Supposs didn't dress - vsll
as I do now. would you love uao 3u1e
the same? Is
Her naucs-Cartainly. asas. WAR
thatss ~ much aaSf 10 say that \ went
care Ter yOu after 10 agos ulG11en1 s5s
Evening star., 1918-01-13

avenue dressmaker. 1t is of dark blue
cloth, as shown in the sketch. 1t laps
over so broadly in front that one has
strong suspicion xbat there are bloom
ers beneath instead of a skirt.
The immense pockets are well below
the hips. The revers fall back or lap
over and fasten up for warmth. On the
cuff and on the high turnover collar is
the red symbol placed on square of