davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
WOULD CONNECT CHICAGO WITH
NEW YORK.
The Type Used in One Year to Publish
Endorsements of Doan's Kidney
Pills


OF the many kidney remedies on the
market today, none other is recommend
ed like Doan's Kidney Pills. Fifty
thousand benefited people gladly testi-
fy IN the newspapers of their own
towns. Fortyfv hundred American
newspapers publish this home proof of
Doan s merit. The type used in one
year to tell this wonderful story would
make a solid column of metal twice as
high as the world s highest mountain.
Placed end to end the lines Of type
would reach from New York to Chi
cago. These miles of good words told
by $4,000 tongues sound glad tidings
70 any Brattleboro sufferer who wants
elief from kidney and bladder ills.
Here's q Brattleboro ease. Don't ex-
pertinent. Use the remedy endorsed by
people you know.
Eugene Ferriter, Is Horton place,
says: about five years ago, had
qGite a serious attack of kidney trou-
bic. l had great deal Of annoyance
in passing the kidney secretions and
| they were scanty and painful in pas
! sage. Finally, | couldn t pass the kid
I ney secretions at all and | suffered
agony. The trouble lasted about a
month and I finally decided to try
Doan' s Kidney Pills. I used two OIL
three boxes, whichrI got from Wilfred
+, Root 5 Drug Store. 1t was only g
short time when the kidney secretions
passed naturally and l recovered from
the complaint =
Price Gee, at all dealers. Don Z
simply ask for kidney remedy-ge+
Doan s Kidney Pills-the same thai
Mr.. Ferriter had Foster Milburn Co.
Mfgrs., Buffalo. n. Y.-Adv.
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18

Gen. Pershing wants every father,
mother and other relative or close
friend of a boy in the trenches or of
a boy likely to be there soon, to write
letters and send newspapers to the
young, soldier. The commander wants
the boy to know that he is remembered
at home, for the home touch helps 70
make him a good soldier. lone of the
most effective ways whereby our army
thousands of miles away in a foreign
land can keep in sympathy with the
great home sentiment of America IS
through letters received by officers and
men from relatives and intimate
friends.' said General Pershing. In
just the same way letters from our
fighting men here should fire the ma
ton with enthusiasm to win and de
termination to endure many burdens
which are trivial compared to the sac
rificcs the soldiers are making
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18

The general manager of one of the
largest electric light companies in
America, on being asked how the day
light saving would affect the price II
electric currents, struck rather of dis
cordant note in replying, by claiming
that the lighting interests would be de-
prived of 50 much revenue from de-
reased consumption that they will be
forced to charge householders a higher
rate to make up for the loss. If the
attitude of other companies is like this
it is time for the public service COM
missions to get busy.
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
HELPFUL. HAIR hints
Worthy the Attention of Everyone who
Would Avoid Dandru1!, Itching
Scalp, Gray Hairs and Badness.

what will stop my hair coming out"
Reply: Partisan Sage IS the lest remedy
for hair and scalp trouble; said "a prevent
badness, grayness and danGrulf
Before going to bed. l always rub a
little Partisan Sage into my scalp says
woman whose luxurious. SOFT and fluffy
hair is greatly admired This stops itch
ing scalp keeps the hair from falling out
and makes it easy to dress attractively
Beautiful, soft. g.ossy. healthy hair for
those who use Partisan Sac It's mex,
pensive and sold by II lied F. Loot and
good druggists everywhere, with Guaran-
tee Of satisfaction 81 money refunded
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
TO ADVERTISERS.

Transient advertsng-Run OF paper
so cents an inch for first insertion. %
cents an inch for each subsequent inser
ton Limited space on first page at
double rates.
Space rates on application.
Classified advertiSements-Fiv cents a
line first insertion with 80 per cent dis
count for each subsequent insertion
without change Of copy.
Reading Notices-Ten cents per line,
first insertion with 80 per cent discount
for each subsequent insertion without
change Of copy
Position 10 per cent extra
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
TO THE SUBSCRIBERS.

II is the aim of the management tc
secure efficient service in the delivery OF
the paper each night, and il solicits the
cooperation OF subscribers to that end
Prompt reports should be given of eacl
failure to receive the paper on the morn
ing following the omission. in person
by telephone or postal card. thus enabline
the cause of the error to be promptly
and accurately discovered and the propel
remedy Immediately applied. 1t is only
by this method that the publisher car
secure the desired service
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
THURSDAY, APRIL IS, 1918.

Let's not be discouraged. Let s have
confidence all the time that truth and
right and justice will prevail. And in
the meantime let's do everything to
hold up that right arm of the United
States which is fighting in France
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
URGES NC GLUT IN MARKETING
Departments of Agriculture Advises
ale Of Hens Gradually After April 90.

WASHINGTON, p. c., April IS
The United States department of agri-
niture again advises farmers to sell
gradually ana not to glut the market
Immediately after April 20, when the
astriction against sale of hens is re-
aoved Hens should he sold gradually.
Faia VII stabilize the market and bring
hetter prices for them. II also win
mean more eggs Every laying hen
It this season produces eggs at far less
cost for feed than during tho winter.
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
Member Of the Associated press

The Associated Press is exclusivelv
entitled to the use for publication of all
news dispatches credited to it and not
otherwise credited In this paper and also
the local news published herein
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1918-04-18
Tf,e a'y8f:Igilvgo Affogney

Entered in the postofice at Brattlehor
as second class matter
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
The Redmgote
Gown

When one announces that France and Amer
lea have both yielded to the lure of the short
jacket, there is no intention to mislead the
women Of the country into the belief that no
other kind of coat is tolerated One has onlv
to glance at the exhibitions of new clothes to
find that short and long coat are shown
within the same ten minutes. It is matter
of choice.
However it must be admitted that the Ionv
coats are more constantly used as part of s.
frock than as part of suit. It is when one
wants to employ the heavy jersey that one is
apt to see III the redingote chance for good
wcrk.
Take the sketch to-day, for instance, which
is gown designed by Nine. Georgette. of
Paris 1t is made in black and blue The long
coat gives the effect of suit, but is, in reality
redingote. In the entire costume there is no
wool. The coat itself is made of corded crepe.
with wide lapels faced with white silk accented
by tassels Of silk thread. There is thick
blue silk cord at the waist which ties at the
side. The underslip is of the heavy silk jer-
sey and clings to the figure with the simplicity
az An unadorned chemise.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
French Frocks Show Unusual
Drapery at the Ankle Line

When the Americans first saw the ragged
hens of the frocks they believed that no
woman in her right senses would accept such
an innovation. 1t went against the traditions
in clothes which had been established for cen
turtles. Nobody but gypsy or an American
Indian delighted in a skirt that bobbed up and
down at the foot-lne. 1t was untidy, said the
critics; it was sloveny
But the world accepted it, nevertheless, and
for several years we have looked with COM
placence upon hens that had no idea of being
regular or of even length. From that begin
ming came the desire to pull skirts up in differ
ent ways at the hem, and to-day we have
resurrection of this fashion
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
Return to
Ancient Custom

The gown which IS shown in the sketch is a
new one by Agnes, of Paris, brought to this
country and copied for American women. The
skirt of black satin is an excellent example of
the manner in which dozens of the new house
frocks draped at the hem It is a very
old trick, and one can find it in the pictures Of
long ago fashion leaders of Europe. It was
probably the first one INDUCED in By great
dressmakers to start new fashion in skirt,
for queens.
Over the satin skirt which is draped at the
side, goes chenise tunc of jet heavily
weighted at the sides by jet tassels which, as
the mannequin said who wore the gown,
bruised her ankles as though somebody had
been throwing snowballs at them. The bodice
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
True, There Are
Sober Clothes

Mind you, there is no disposition shown by
the French designers, as they have expressed
their genius in the new clothes, to omit all the
fabrics that are sensible and economical. Black
satn, blue serge, gray jersey cloth and several
shades Of gabardine are ruling street cos
tumery.
Metal tissues and laces are lavishly used for
me afternoon and the evening, but they are
sooered by miles Of chiffon. Sturdy crepe de
cane, which looks fragile and is not, is offered
IN the smartest gowns for the street.
There are one-p piece frocks as well suits,
and capes have superseded top coats. Elabo-
rate and expensive embroidery has given way
!" characterization by means Of wool or Irvine,
anc intricate machine stitching is abandoned
IN favor Of bits of applied material, straight
lows OF military braid or folds Of corded satin.
Lace is used as though Belgium had been
feinstated and every one of the lace weavers
working overtime. Flounces, capes, sleeves
and panels Of lace are dropped on narrow, slim
endersfps Of satin
Satin and serge are combined for those who
want 70 wear frock for the next six months
"'hout feeling unconfortably warm or cold.
"aIstcoats, the styles Of which were drawn
rom all the epochs preceding this one, are used
~ coats, which gives the economical woman
sasnce 70 refurbsh her last years suit and
.eei herself quite in the picture. The French
1sa'gners knew that they were offering a sop
Inc economists in promoting this accessory.
sturdy pique has been revived for those who
!" nos care 70 invest in handkerchief linen,
rsf'Shaole batiste or expensive Powered wolfe
+asse suits and frocks Of pique are trimmed
I'm velvet, al in older days, and all the dyes
as france has manufactured for her own
~ "aYe been brought 10 bear upon white and
ss@m iace IN order to make harmonious COS
..aass; and this trick again gives the woman
= ''ender means chance to look exceedingly
ss lar through the medium Of dipping yellow
"'s 10 a small quantity If reliable dye
1@s's mas gent over multiple number OF
III straight jackets, with fronts that do not
80 and In the space between is displayed
.I.nsa front with turnover collar and a
100 'ouiard cravat This little front Is
ts'sa INTO the coat, and thereby saves one
.'A using whole shirtwaist, With its accom-
Ssnying laundry bil
4hsfe 10 no dlsputing the fact that French
.'ash have Yielded 10 the American desire &,
- - wort skirts q. the street md the zkjrtx
s1sN ~ these new clothes are both narrow
B esOrk The women who appeared on the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07

ion that has been acceptable for four years,
and think yourself part and parcel of this new
movement.
Tulle is not used in that way. 1t does not
go over the shoulders. 1t is made into volumi-
nous sleeves; it is wrapped about the waist or
the hips and forms hustle bow at the side or
back; it is tied straight around the neck, with
a huge bow at the back or under the chin, IL
the face can stand it; it is made into bat-like
cape and attached to the shoulders and arms
with jet bracelets; it makes no pretence Of
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07

One designer took it into her head to omit
white collars and as substitute tulle
wrapped about the neck and tied in bow
This fashion is already considered quite smart
over here. In restaurants, for luncheons and
for any affair where the hat is retained the
tulle which covers it forms this collar, and
sometimes drops in long ends from the nape Of
the neck to the knees.
Now don't jump to the conclusion that you
can pick up two three yards of colored
zaaline. put it over your shoulders in the fash.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
Demands
Short Coat

To see what a noted Paris tailor can do
with the Elton jacket to make it different from
the mannish garment which we accented IN
the early winter, one has only to glance at
this sketch
This suit has been brought to America and
cordially received. 1t is built of blue serge
black silk braid and black satin. The skirt is
of the satin, narrow and slim, with loose panels
of braided blue serge at each side. This move
ment of skirts is SO dominant throughout all
the new fashions that it is well to absorb it in
the mind. The heavy weight of the braid
keeps the serge in place, and one may use
colored lining, if it is considered desirable.
The lining on these panels is black, which is in
the best taste.
The short jacket is cut up in front, after
the manner of the Directoire coats and it
drops down to the hips at sides and back The
material is blue serge, and the satin Of the
skirt is introduced into collar, cuffs and waist
coat, which covers the waistlne. Against the
black surface is bold, primitive embroidery
in Natter blue wool.
By the way, the jacket is slightly shorter in
the back than at the sides, in order that it
may display hustle bow of black satin which
is attached to the skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
Many Varieties
of Ribbon

There are even ribbons with woolen en-
brodery, which we are assured are made from
odds and ends of threads in order not to break
the conservation method, and which will re-
place bands of woollen fabric.
There are broad ribbons of gold and silver.
OF black touched with jet, of cream and oyster
colored satin stamped with pompadour designs:
there are Roman stripes and there are color
ings in soft taffeta ribbons which we have
rarely seen before this season.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
The Effect Of Amer

over such brilliant, alluring, rich
- clothes? 1t is because American
,onev has burst upon her with such force that
,he has gone up in a balloon, figuratively
speaking
France settled herself down for demure
clothes on the day of the war and has kept to
;his contract with herself, compelling the rest
If the world to dress likewise; but in the au-
nmn of 1917 there burst upon her astonished
vision the vanguard of America. They were
not commercial buyers; they were not cosmo-
ulitan nultimilionaires who aped the French
woman They were the true representatives
If country whose yastness and resources
France had only guessed at. Boys in blue
flannel sailor suits had bank accounts of ten
thousand dollars each; women in Red Cross
uniforms could afford five hundred dollars per
ooyn: if they wished, privates in khaki paid
their bills without locking at their change:
canteen workers hid under their collars strings
Of pearls worth fifty thousand dollars. All
these Americans laughed and went to the thea
tire and ordered expensive dinners and jokea
with the mldlnettes.
The stream Of people and money kept pour
ing in Each week it was doubled. When
the French houses for holiday gifts to be sent
to America. Nobody seemed to care what was
spent. So much for that picture.
Now for It's effect on the French mind, and
especially on The minds of the designers, who
catch at every straw for inspiration.
This wealth, this gayety, this extravaganza,
this optimism, caught France up in a swirl o.
hope and happiness. The people saw victory,
the poor saw riches, the depressed saw gayety,
and we have the result in the clothes of March.
Chenise Robe
for Evening
Among the new evening gowns from France
this spring the twelfth century tunic is as FIRE.
quently seen as is the street gowns, but the
effect Of the two is strongly differentiated. For
the evening the designers use narrow, slim,
primitive slip of satin or metallic cloth, the
latter preferred. Over this slip drops much
wider, more volurlinous. transparent robe. 4
is cut ike chemise; it has a half low decol-
letage the sleeves usually cover the entire
arm;but are cut to fall half foot away from
it, and the entire effect is one of exquisite
yelling.
Doucet does this in the most brilliant man
ner, ard he shows his competitors something
in tie way Of undersl.p. making q corselet
and then short skirt Of soft gold tissue, which
gives far more graceful, undulating move
ment Of the body when it is seen beneath the
transparent chemise.
There are chemise gowns Of rare lace, sell
dom IN white, but in ivory tints and also in
cloudy gray. These are dropped over slim
underslip Of tissue, silver and steel as well as
gold, and the note OF color is given by an ex-
traordnary sash It may be Of Chinese blue
iaFeta, Of splendid Chinese brocade, Of deep
gold and black brocaded ribbon, and one end
Of it always trails down the back panel and
adds to the br;lliancy Of the short train.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
Ribbon to Piay a
Brilliant Role

When one caught glimpses of the magnif-
cence of the new ribbons. it did not take de-
tectlve's mind to realize that they were made
Tor serious purpose, that they were not
turned out merely to dutter in holiday array
from gowns and hats. No class of industrial
workers would spend so much time upon an
article Of commerce unless there was to be a
broad demand for it.
At the beginning of last winter the ribbons
OF the world began to take on new and
serious Importance. They went back to the
days when artists of parts put their skill and
inspiration into these bands of fabric Instead
of being just pink, blue and red ribbons. they
became backgrounds for superb ornamental
ton. for magnificence of design and treatment.
They were gold and silver, they were en-
broidered, they were stamped with vivid flow
ers. They went so far above the average and
climbed so high on the pinnacle of artistic
merit that those who studied fabrics realized
that they would be substituted for more COM
monplace fabrics, as we'll as for new ma
terials.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
A Heavy Weave of Silk JERSEY
Substitute for Woollen

Rodler is the man who invents fabrics for
the civilized world
therefore, when it was known that Rodier
mad put out superior and durable weave of
SILK jersey that would replace woolen fabrics
the world received the news with the interest it
deserved.
The FrencNare using silk jersey to conserve
wool. America will do the same. The Council
OF National Defense only asked the American
dressmakers to use not more than four and
half yards of woollen fabric in a costume but
we have done much better than that since the
request was made. There gowns that are
made from yard and a half of wool. and
there are hundreds of frocks that haven't any
wool at all, except touch of embroidery.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07

on arts Styles

is OF tulle with suspenders of satin. There Is
a glrdie Of the same material which ross
through slit IN the bodice and ends in sash
weighted with jet. The sleeves are made from
short caps of jet, from which flow irregular
widths of black tulle
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07

street in them without leggings or high shoes
have created unpleasant criticism, which should
compel them to change their style.
The smart run Logging or a high
coth-top boot we'll up under the hem of these
short skirts, and the effect is military and
pleasing. But at the very moment that we are
accepting with enthusiasm this continued style
of short and narrow garments, the prophets
say that the real French skirts are growing
longer. And the smart American designers
say the same. They are making the garments
slim, without using an inch of surplus ma
terlal, but they are dropping them to the
ankles, emitting the leggings and the high
boots, and coming back to the fat-heeled pumps
with broad ribbon bows across the vamp.
Three four of the best houses in New
York emphasize these skirts, and those who
are tired of the brevity Of the skirts we have
worn for years are accepting this new type Of
garment with more than the usual enthusiasm
If it had fulness it would be impossible for
street usage, but it's narrowness and the slight
bias line at the sides, that comes from the ma
terial being pulled backward and upward, make
it a pleasing picture the street and an arts
tic contrast to the prevailing garment.
Miles of
Tulle
Even when France starts out to be demure
she changes her mind and gets a little fling
of gayety into the most sombre gown. For ex-
ample, she makes a black satin restaurant
frock in the style of the eleventh century, with
the long chemise, the slight girdling about the
hips and the half-low decolletage. Well and
good But she is weary Of the black surface
by the time she gets to the armholes and the
neckine, she swings in pair Of floating
Chinese sleeves Of jade green tulle edged with
let, and she winds a narrow scarf Of tulle
once around the neck, pulls it's fulness up over
the chin and weights it's ends with jet tasse!s
When green isn't used, kings blue or wine
color is chosen.
Every French designer used what she could
Of colored tulle There must have been COM
petition over there to who could reduce the
amount Of tulle in France most quickly.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-04-07
Gown of
Gold Ribbon

Germaine, Of Paris, has sent to this country
a most successful gown made from broad rib
bons OF gold and black brocade. The tight
underslip is of golden yellow tissue, soft and
yielding to the movements of the body. The
top skirt is of black tulle slightly gathered to
the wastine, but held down to the figure SO
that it will not flare out. by means of these
gold and black ribbons that hang from the
slightly high-waisted bodice to the ankles. The
bodice is made of the ribbons going around the
figure, and over each shoulder is narrow
plain gold ribbon holding shoulder pieces of
fesh-colored tulle. Attached to each gold
band is scarf of black tulle that hangs over
the front and back of the figure and floats
away over the arms.
This gown is copied in all black for those
who do not care to indulge in the brilliancy Of
the gold. 1t shows the Spanish influence, and
it has an amazing grace
The arran cement Of the straps on the shout
ders should be called to the attention Of those
who are uncertain about the arran cement of
the long tulle drapery that drops from over
the arms this season. AS you notice in the
sketch, the straps are placed we'll forward
over the neck, and the tight-itting flesh tulle
that goes under and over the arms holds the
bodice securely in place and allows the tue
sleeves to be lightly attached to the top of the
shoulder, where they will not feel any of the
strain of the lifted arms