davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
creating fashions by the actions
> of ofher desipners That L. WHY

NAR1S is never handicapped in
creating fashions by the actions
Of other designers, That is why
she is powerful. America has always
suffered under the handicap because
she has followed Paris.
She has never been inclined to risk
the exploitation Of fabrics, fashions
and colorings that were not spon-
sored by others. She has been
willing slave, but a most expert, in
telligent slave. In her very following
of Paris was expressed the extraor-
binary inclination Of a whole con-
tinent toward good and fashionable
dressing.
1t is said Of us that we pick out the
best in every nation and bring it to
our shores. For this we have been
whipped with scorn and dashed with
ridicule. but 1t seems. an exceedingly
good process of cultivation for young
nation like this. We know the best in
every department OF art, science and
literature. II we are compelled to put
our knowledge to practical use. we at
least have the best to go on. We arc
not ignorant.
The time has come for this expert
ment, as we all know, and the present
observer thinks that a few medals OF
honor should be distributed to those
who have gone over the top" in de-
signing clothes in this country. 1t
took great commercial courage and it
required a sound knowledge Of the
American public.
what France Did. America Does.
Here are two anecdotes which ac-
centuate the point. They happened
dozen years apart.
Nine. Paquin saw several bolts of
checked silk in a manufacturers
hands. Neither the weave nor the COL
UrinH nor the design was in fashion,
to quote her own phrase. The manu-
facturer complained that he had no
call for this material and said that he
would sell 1t for about a franc and
half yard.
Nine. Paquin took it all, went to her
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

into war resources is going on merrily
and wisely. II takes thought of the in
dividual. and it also takes thought e
the nation. A member of the War
Industries Board who is mapping the
continent into a Checkerboard OF activ-
ity in order to bring about this trans
formation in, the business world is
ardent in his belief that the individual
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

as far as variety Of resources is con-
cerned.
There will be no encouragement to
experiment in materials. fashions or
colors from now on. We must wear
what we can get in quantity, for COM
merce will not be allowed to take up
the labor Of skilled men for expert
ments.
There Is no thought of economizing
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

form OF labor to keep each individual
at the task for which he is educated
and in which he can make his wage.
Even though the individual is cared
for In the conversion of non-essen-
tails to war work-and we must ad-
NIT that this il the great and i'm
portant thing-there is no doubt that
the process will leave us high and dry
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

though the popular mind does not re-
gard it as one Of the lovely weaves If
the world. because 1t Is plentiful.
There is no trouble about getting all
the taffeta one wants, and 1t Is best
that we model our wardrobes for the
near future on the materials that can
be bought in this country in sufficient
quantity to correspond to our needs.
The conversion of non essentials
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

dlcrs do not wish to see all women
CARRIED in black. 1t does not make
them look upon life with more JOY.
However. we have started on
career Of black for this simmer sea-
son. and only the individualists de-
part from IT, 1t is condition for
gratitude that we have some rebel
lious souls who insist upon blue. pink,
green and yellow as a contrast to the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

Blue serge coat split up the
back, with a long cuirass of
colored embroidery on blue tri-
cot. The coat is slashed to a
deep v back and front to dis
play the vivid undergarment.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
start OH Career of Black.

Another departure from the fashion
as laid down by Paris this year is
the wearing of black. This is not for
mourning. but for the street. lunch
cons. dinners and the theatre.
1t is really not a good fashion, and
those who are concerned about the
morale OF the nation. which merely
means the upkeep Of its optimism in
the highest form, would prefer to see
this a season of gayer colors. There
will probably be enough mourning in
the land and our millions of SOL
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
Follow Partisan Idea and Cause Vogue
for Material That Went a-Begging
Spanish Lace an Example

salons on the Rue de la Paix, turned
the cheap checked silk into an alluring
frock of her own design. and then wore
1t at Trouyille-by-the-Se She made
the frock, the design, the color and
the fabric fashionable. Every one
wanted to wear what she wore. She
sold every inch Of the material at
price that brought her great profit on
the transaction.
Last month an American designer
was looking over the stock of lace
importer. Nothing new" said the
importer. Here am held up with
about fifty Spanish lace scarfs which
l bought at a venture, thinking |
could distribute them in the trade I'm
America, but no one took them. The
one answer was that they are not in
fashion"
The designer saif-tfiat II the i'm
porter would give him one scarf he
would turn 1t into a gown that would
sell all the other scarfs. on condition
that he received a commission on
their sale.
The bargain was closed. The gown
was designed. 1t sold Immediately. 1t
was copied so fast that the other forty
nine scarfs melted away like flakes Of
soap in hot water. Spanish lace was
offered as first fashion.
That is good example Of the
change that has come over the Amer
lean merchant and the American de-
signer. We no longer have to ask
what Is the fashion. but are probably
enabled to make he fGSaion Cor oar
own continent.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

The frock the left revivng the mnaret Paul Poire
made OF JET and the tunic banded with black ribbon
The narrow skirt made of chiffon with loops Jet
right is Spanish lace scarf turned into dinner gown
is narrow black satin skirt with wide peated back and
the srpce bodice and front
OF black silk Spanish lace mounted silver
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
Fads and Fancies
In Fashion World

THE prettiest of the new waist
coats or little sleeveless bodices
that are SO much worn with
street suits are made IN slip on fash
ion, with no front closing. This design
gives the makers a chance for de-
cidedly attractive effects in the way
OF tucks and frills and rulings on the
front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
Color Notes

~ EVIL blue is the latest choice
made for neckwear accessories.
Whether the color itself has a
special charm or not it doesn't matter:
the popularity of the French soldiers.
who wear the uniform from which II
takes It's name, started the craze for
the color.
Just why the patriotic woman should
feel the need of having her lingerie
of khaki color 1t Is hard 10 see. The
fact is that the corset of khaki color
has been launched, and IT seems to
have an appeal for certain women,
who find II appropriate when doing
Red Cross work or other war work to
wear stays Of this military color.
Hop yellow, with green tones hid
den in its depths, Is another good
color that Is wearable even in the
warmest summer weather. 1t sug-
gests all sorts Of pleasant outdoor
scenes.
The palest flesh tone is one tina.
has gained great vogue for hats of
organdy and georgette. 1t is surely
cool and summary and youthful.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21


l. that are so much worn with
street suits are made IN slip on fash
ion, with no front closing. This design
gives the makers n chance for de-
cidedly attractive effects in the way
OF tucks and frills and rulings on the
front
Word comes from France that so
far as she Is concerned much silk will
be shown for next winter. And as we
have a big silk supply in this country
quite probably we will follow the lead
Of Paris and wear many frocks of this
fabric.
The combination OF dark blue and
white is not new. but it has gained
renewed interest this summer. Per-
haps the dark blue calico frocks had
something to do with it. for among
the best of these were the ones with n
fine white pattern on a dark blue
ground. And they were usually made
up with pipings and facings and other
touches OF white. Now for later years
frocks of blue serge enlivened and
characterized with touches Of white
satin are shown here.
Beaded bags are having perhaps a
longer life of popularity than would
have been the case II beads had not
advanced so greatly in price as to
make beaded bags a luxury. At all
events they have never become COM
monplace enough to make them UNI
popular with women who wish the un-
usual. So they are still shown in the
shops in new designs and Of new
workmanship. Oval bags are especially
good Just now.
Every now and again there Is talk
OF the practicability of making certain
clothes in only a small number of
colors The talk seldom results in any
tangible plan. But sometimes we wish
1t would. 1t is extremely irritating,
for instance, to buy a suit of a certain
color and then TO be unable to match
1t In a blouse. We wish then that
colors were standardized instead of
being each of them in any of dozen
different shades.
Fringe. fringe. fringe-we see It
everywhere. 1t is still a good trim
ming. 1t needs clever manipulation.
OF course. but when well placed 1t Is
surely one of the most effective means
OF trimming our frocks, hats, parasols
and coats. And 1t is used on all these
things-on others, too, for we carry
fringed hand bags and even wear
fringed underwear and neglgee.
Pockets are another trimming fea-
ture that remain in good style in spite
OF the fact that they are no novelty.
Real or seeming pockets. faced or
lined with white or colored satin, are
used smartly on some of the new
models OF navy blue serge.
A new shade OF brown Is Cordoyan
brown-a reddish shade. supposed to
he like old Cordova leather 1t Is a
rich warm tone that inadequately lives
up to the Spanish note suggested by
me name. Great popularity is pre-
dicted for il in the autumn.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21

Word comes from France that so
far as she Is concerned much silk will
be shown for next winter. And as We
have big silk supply in this country
quite probably we will follow the lead
Of Paris and wear many frocks Of this
fabric.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-10-30
Hotel Moscow Arrivals.

Oct. 29.-J. @. Tracy, Spokane; L.
B. Cottingham, Spokane; l.. G. Burr,
Spokane; Helen D. Nickel, Kamiah;
Mr.. Frohme, Spokane; A. S. Daniels;
Jack Johnson; r. M Taggart, De-
troit; L. w. Squire; Y. j. Franco,
Helena; John Halseth, Kendrick; B..
H. Pitts, Seattle; NJ R. Upton, San
Francisco; Orville Wood, Cotton; Mrs.
H. Strong, lewiston; John Cone,
Princeton; H. E. Wirham, Portland;
John E. Halverson, Spokane; Mrs. D..
Halverson, Spokane; Jno. E. Will
liams, Spokane; j. H. Kaylor, Peck;
R: L. Bender, Spokane; Otto Sproat,
Broemeling and wife, Genesee.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-10-30
"AMENDMENT.
"o5th Congress,
"1st Session.

Proposed Mr. Borah to the bill s. 24o3 provide further for
the national encouraging the production
serving and supply controlling distribution of food products
and fuel viz Add new sections follows
"Secion - During present with Germany and when
United States shall direct the Federal Trade
Commission authorized and empowered fix fair and
prices retail the following articles towit
Steel implements, fertilizers meats bread flour and
such by the Presi
articles of clothing usually by
farm aborers, and laborers generally.
"Sec That when price any article shall have been
fixed established aforesaid President shall procma
ton after the issuance of such
proclamation higher price shall be charged received by
said articles
President is hereby authorized and empowered
prescribe regulations he may essential for
proper enforcement and observance of the prices fixed under this
who wlfu charges receives higher price for
any than the price which shall have been fixed afo
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-10-30

said shall guilty thereof shall
be fined exceeding $1,000 be imprisoned for than
year, both"
Senator Borah his of duty Washington; he has left
people Idaho the question his reelection he has sought
their judgment by his be here would be
oake the duties and responsibilities placed him by the people
of Idaho be away from Washington when and
questions being debated in Congress.
of tributes the of such sterling
worth devotion the principles of this Government this moment
when his ability needed in the United States Senate
Idaho going their him?
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-10-30
Thomas Myklebust is up from

Troy, cleaning up the store room
MykIebust Brothers occupied here for
many years and disposing- of colds
end ends" that were left when the
store room was vacated Tom says
business at Troy is good and the firm
has a fine trade.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-10-30

To THE LOYAL DEMOCRATS Of IDAHO:
Loyalty Virtues great
demand at the present time.
He who is doyal this will live long enough
get rid of the STAIN
true? Will individual Democrat stand the
test? hope will and will Remember the wful twelve
dsloya dissatisfied
with steamrol ticket they out another ticket and called
Progressive
They headed it with loyal lived followed up
with perfectly honorable loyal They
before the people principles platform
gave their They
fair Now Democrats endorsed
by everything but pro- Germans, W. WIS
and Republicans who they Democrats They know they
could win office straight ticket Of their but the
Democrats help them of the of
beloved of Idaho Some of these leaders dsoyal W.
WIS and pro- Germans rejected Republicans Others
peced doyaly None of the Nonpartsan candidates should
be called Democrats No straight loyal Democrat
should be found helping them
In other the Nonpartisans endorsed Repub
cans similar saying they Republicans which goes
they hypocries decevng people
LII
lifelong Republican cannot ticket
after helping make Republican year
Democrat Shades Annanias, hypocrisy!
precious jewel but do Democrats think it the
brow L. Purcell? Well
stomach to have Hon. L. Puce The of Jeppersen
Sanues ct al They the Democratic ticket by
thing but Democrats Now what shall do What ought
do Do we Democrats the Bohevikis Are
going hypocrites and disoyas? That
would make the dsoyasts ourselves prefer
for straight honorable Republicans straight
able ticket the Nonparns who deceivers. We
farmers and tonspeope who loyal heart do not be further
deceived Germany first deceive the world then
Don't help their side shows. Be loyal
will regret
MN WEBB.
Weiser, Idaho 9,
(TTIE NEW FREEDOM)
Boise, Idaho Oct. 18, 1918.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
M|STLET0E
kissing Custom SO Old No One
/ Knows When It Started.
Branches With Greatest Number OF
Berries Favored, as Kiss Must
Be Give. for Each Berry
Plucked.

According to scandinavian mythol.
ogy, Loki, the god OF evil, was the
sworn enemy Of Baldur, the god Of
light, and tried by every means In
his power to kill him, but failed be.
cause he was invulnerablc to every.
thing that came from the earth, air,
fire or water.
Loki at last conceived the idea that
the mistletoe, springing from neither,
would serve his purpose and, having
m arrow made from the wood he
helped Hodi, the blind god Of dark.
ness, to aim it, and Bnldur fell dead
shot through the heart.
All the gods and gOddesses prayed
for his restoration to life, and when
the prayer was granted 1t was de-
creed that the mistletoe should never
more have power to do harm unless it
touched the earth, and the goddess OF
love was appointed to guard 1t.
Some legends claim that the god
dess kissed all who passed under the
plant as n token that it was no longer
weapon of death, but symbol Of
love, while others assert that she eX-
tracted n kiss from each as q Dropitia-
ton, or the bough should be allowed to
work harm.
Another reason for the kissing priv.
ilege conferred tby the plant is said to
he that lovely maiden preferred
death to the kisses Of an amorous old
monk who pursued her, and her
prayers for deliverance were answer
ed by Transforming her into a mistle.
toe branch and placing her in tree.
Kiss For Each Berry.
The custom Of "kissing beneath the
mistletoe" is so old that no one knows
when it originated; but when young
people are found selecting the branches
that have the berries on, it is fair to
suppose that they know kiss must
be given for each berry plucked and
that the ceremony is never complete
until every berry is off the branch.
There was once q common, though
mistaken, belief that the mistletoe grew
on oak trees only, but that was so far
from true that the Druids, who held
the oak as absolutely sacred because
they believed it to represent the One
Supreme God, deemed the mistletoe
doubly sacred If found on one, and
carefully guarded it until the sixth day
after the first new moon of each
year.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18

When this time arrived, priests
robed in spotless white, surrounded
the tree and held solemn ceremonies.
among which was the sacrifice Of two
white bulls.
After the ceremonies priest robed
In spotless white ascended the tree,
and with a golden knife cut tho mis-.
tletoe and let it fall onto white
cloth held by other priests.
The branches were then formally
blessed and divided among the people,
who believed the sprays given them
to have miraculous power.
Called "AII.Heal" Plant.
The common belief In the efficacy
Of the plant was such that it was call.
cd "all-heal;" but according to an old
legend, a certain lover searched many
days for specimen growing on IN
oak tree, that he might secure its
branches for the cure Of his betrothed,
who was sick unto death, but when
he found 1t he touched the sap, while
cutting the branches, and fell dead
near the tree, indicating that the sap
was deadly poison.
Another legend accounts for the
fact that the plant is parasite by the
story that the mistletoe, originally
grew aS tree, and that the cross on
which Christ was crucIfled was made
from mistletoe wood, after which it
was accursed and condemned to never
more grow as n tree but to exist as
parasite, killing every living thing
to which 1t became attached.
The plant thrives in America from
New Jersey southwark and westward,
ana those who know it only rs part
Of Christmas decorations can have
little idea of how it overruns trees to
the extent Of being nuisance.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
MAKE SOLDIER feel HE
is AS GOOD AS EVER:

Men disabled In the service who ate
returning from the front and who find
1t hard at first to see their way to-
ward earning n livelihood are spec
cial problem for the Red Cross. Un-
der the Smith-Sears law a fund Is ap-
propriated to re-educate every dis
abled man who will take the opportu-
nifty to make a living. 1t Is felt that
such men are likely to be weakened
in their resolution to keep their self
respect and find real work by the mis-
taken charity Of hero worshippers. who
will forget them once the first flush of
war enthusiasm is over. Here the sup
port Of the disabled mans family must
be enlisted, for In the last analysis 1t
Is the mans family who will be the de-
termining influence in his rehabilita-
ton. The relatives must be braced to
meet the stuation-to make Of them
selves for the man bulwnrk against
encouragement and weakness.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
Anticipated Pleasure.

II don't believe the approach OF
Christmas brings YOU single joyous
anticipation" said the sweet young
thing.
"Don't, ch?' replied the savage bach
elor. ''LiSten to my secret. That
youngster on the third floor is sure to
get tin trumpet for present"
Eyes"
"Then he will get careless and leave
1t on the hall floor. And then I shall
step on it with both feet. Don't you
call that joyous anticipation7" --.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
FORMER KAISER. sf
ABOUT ISOLATED

.AbOUl lSOLAIED
Armorengen, Holland, Dec. 15:--
The former German Emperor con-
tinues to lead the life Of a near re-
cluse. He is virtually cut off from
communication with the outside world.
Reports that he was in constant COM
munication with his former advisers
are not true.
There is no truth in the rumors that
the former Empress is seriously ill.
She has been troubled for years with
an affection of the heart, and after her
arrival here desired to have her for
mer physician in attendance. He ar
rived at the castle yesterday and said
that her condition showed no change.
Whenever there is break in the
incessant drizzle customary in Hol-
land William Hohenzollern and his
wife walk in the rain-soaked grounds
with one or two attendants. Some
times they take trip in a closed
motor car.
The correspondent inquired into the
rumor that the former Emperor in
tended to move his quarters and
learned that Herr Hohenzollern is not
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18

at Clarendon Court House. at Man
ming, in said County, within the hours
for judicial sales, on Monday tho 9Th
day of January, 1919, being salesday,K
the following described real estate
/. All that piece, parcel or lot "a So
land lying, being and situated in the
County of Clarendon, State aforesaid. s..
containing one and one-fourth (1AS
acres and bounded on the North byss
the river road or lands Of Emma
Lemon, East and South by lands of
estate of Ben Lemon, and West by3.
lands of j. E. Davis. sss@
The said lot Of land being desigLy
mated at lot Number 8 upon a plat,
made by G. T.. Floyd, surveyor, datedn
September 9th, 1918, and of recordedN
in this cause.
g. All that piece, parcel OF tracts
of land lying, being and situate in
the County of Clarendon, State afore-
said, containing seventeen and threy-
tenths (17 3-10) acres and bounded on
the North by lands Of Emma D, III
Rogers and lands of j. w. BroadWaS
East by lands Of j. w. Broadway afIdV
lands of B.. A. Johnson and West byt
lands Of Emma f. Rogers. 81
i The said tract of land being desiE3
mated as Lot Number 4 upon d.
made by G. T. Floyd dated Septemha3
End, 1918, and of record in the cat!s1
herein. Purchaser to pay for pape
e. B. GAMBLE,
Sheriff Clarendon CourH
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
Christmas Smiles.

But Christmas is not only the mile
mark of another year, moving us to
thoughts Of self-examination--it is q
season, from all its associations,
whether domestic or religious, suggest
ing thoughts Of Joy. A man dissatis-
fed with his endeavors is man tempt
ed to sadness. And in the midst Of
winter, when his life runs lowest and
he is reminded of the empty chairs Of
his beloved, it IS we'll that he should
be condemned to this fashion Of the
smiling face.-Stevenson.
The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1918-12-18
interested in other houses in Holland
and is not likely to move anywhere
until he knows more regarding his
future.
State Of South Carolina,
County Of Clarendon

Emma Lemon, P. H. Fielder, Isiah
Fielder, Chovine Fielder, Nelson
Fielder, Gilbert Fielder, Willie Eel
der, Eddie Fielder, Amelia James
and Edward Collington, Plaintiffs.
against
Hester Collington, Viola Collington
Pinckney Collington, Charles F..
Middleton, and c.. +. Middleton, CO.
partners trading as Middleton e.
Co. S. e. Briggs, p. M. Rogers,
and Henry Fielder, Ton Simmons,
Jack Lemon, Mas ! w EFT. Ed
ward Walters, Melvin Uuk.,, Scip
Mack, Eugene Dukes ID Nero Mil
Ter, the said last min, being Trus-
tees of Mt. Zion A. Nj. E. Church,
Defendants.
Under and by virtue of judgment
Order of the Court of Common Pleas,
in the above stated action, to me
directed, bearing date of September
30th, 1918, will sell at public auc-
tion, to the highest bidder, for cash,