Evening star., 1918-12-01

fitness; in simple homes such lavish
~ out of place, but the idea Of trans
ferring from one kind of costume to
the dinner table after the activities
and anxieties of the day are done Is
ono that should be impressed upon all
American women at this time. Don't
take UP the doctrine that it is done to
be in keeping with the ways of the
wealthy. but that it is means of
Keeping trim and fresh the better
clothes that must be constantly worn
that you cannot renew at your pleas
ure Curing the war, which demands
sacrifices from every stratum of hu-
man beings.
X n
When fashion gets good headway
variety in design and ingenuity keep
it rolling. Now that the women with
their seamstresses follow the Dress
makers in achieving cleverness in
these tea gowns that have nothing in
common with wrappers the fashion Is
we'll established, and new glories re-
modelled from past glory are quite the
boast of the average woman. To
achieve something colorful and clever
in this line is woman's favorite in
advances the costumes take on moro
brillancy and depth and velvet Is con-
stantly used, if not as an entire robe,
then as voluminous coat that keeps
one warm.
Many of these long coats are as vivid
as those worn by the Slavs, and metal
is lavishly used. The foundation robe
is of chiffon over taffeta or satin and
several colors throughout. One of the
foolish fashions is to follow the
French trick of cutting the sleeves
short, leaving the arms exposed. No
one knows why Paris found herself
disposed to try out anything as foolish
as this during time when coal is
difficult to get and leather for gloves
almost prohibitive Don't adopt it. Cut
sleeves long. They are quite fashion
able. as the first reason, and warm as
the second.
All tea gowns are not after these
elaborate designs however, so the
woman who could and would not wear
such costumes at her table and In the
sitting room can find plenty Of ad-
mirable ideas for the reconStructing of
ancient and honorable dance clothes
into more demure house gowns. The
idea is rampant. 1t Is left to the in
dividual to work 1t out according to
her purse, inclination and environ
ment.
Whatever one wears in the house in
the evening is usually a makeshift,
plus beauty, to conserve other frocks;
but what one must wear in public aft
er the lights are turned on Is differ.
cnt matter. There Is not always an op-
portunity to shift the fabric and orna-
mentation of one kind OF gown into
another kind with result that prom
Uses even a half satisfaction. 1t can be
done, but not frequently,
The problem is especially difficult for
those who are not constantly in touch
with the changes and fashions that
come into evening apparel, and so are
not quite sure what Is best and fitting
to wear. War has brought abrupt
changes in costumery for the electric
light, more SO than 1t has for sum
light. New conditions create new fash.
tons always. and human nature tries to
adapt itself to these. in answer to the
common rule that governs the masses.
There Is far more laxity, for in
stance, In costumes after z o'clock at
all kinds of social gatherings than be-
fore the war. and even more infor-
mality than during the first year OF Il.
whispers are heard in the air that
clothes will grow gayer and more
lavish.
This is natural Any one who will