Middletown transcript. [volume] (Middletown, Del.) 1868-current, 1918-04-27
American Wealth
andGay Clothes

New York.-Paris has sent her
clothes over here. We have viewed
them. They have been acceptable In
large measure and approved Of in full
measure. And yet observes promi-
nent fashion writer, we don't under
stand why they should be as they are.
They are a somersault from what has
been. Paris has preached occurrences,
economy. simplicity and modesty. Her
cloths have been symbolic Of the tidal
wave of depression that swept over her
spirit since 1914.
The Reason for the Change. 3
Do you realize why Paris has sent
us over such brilliant, alluring, rich
clothes? It is because American mon
ey has burst upon her with such force
that she has gone up in balloon. hg-
uratively speaking.
France settled herself down for de-
mure clothes on the day Of the war
and has kept to this contract with
herself, compelling the rest Of the
world to dress likewise; but in the
autumn of 1917 there burst upon her
astonished vision the vanguard of
America. They were not commercial
buyers; they were not cosmopolitan
multi-milli0naires who aped the French
woman. They were tl1k true repre-
sentatives of a country whose vastness
and resources France had only guess
ed at. Boys in blue flannel sailor suits
had bank accounts of ten thousand
dollars each; women in Red Cross
uniforms could afford five hundred dol
lars per gown, If they wished; privates
in khaki paid their bills without look
ing at their change; canteen workers
hid under their collars strings Of
pearls worth fifty thousand dollars.
All these Americans laughed and went
to the theater and ordered expensive
dinners and joked with the midinettes.
The confusing part about this stu
alton is that America is getting into
the spirit of economy and somberness
that Paris had a year ago. Our re-
formers preach Standardization, uni
formity in clothes; our economists
preach conservation; our emoti0nalists
beg us to 20 about in black. without
smiles and turning our heads from the
wiles Of pleasure, as though we were
early Puritans.
chemise Robe.
Among the new evening gowns from
France this spring the twelfth century
tunic is as frequently seen as in the
street gowns, but the effect of the two
Is strongly differentiated. For the eve
ming the designers use a narrow, slim,
primitive slip Of satin or metallic
cloth the latter preferred. Over this
slip drops a much wider. more volumi-
nous, transparent robe. It is cut like
chemise; it has a half low decol-
letage; the sleeves usually cover the
entire arm, but are cut to fall half
foot away from it. and the entire
effect is one Of exquisite yelling.
Doucet does this in the most bril-
liant manner, and he shows his COM
petitors something in the way Of an
underslip, making a corslet and then
a short skirt Of soft gold tissue, which
gives a far more graceful, undulating
movement Of the body when it is seen
beneath the transparent chemise.
There are chemise gowns of rare
lace. seldom in white, but in ivory tints
and also in cloudy gray. These are
dropped over a slim underslip of tis-
sue. silver and steel as well as gold,
and the note of color is given by an
extraordinary sash. It may be of Chi
nese blue taffeta, of splendid Chinese
brocade. of deep gold and black bro
caded ribbon, and one end of it always
trails down the back panel and adds
to the brilliancy Of the short train.
We have demure capes made of ga
berdine and serge which are as serv-
iceable as those worn by the Italian
police, and those who care for the
quietness of distinguished clothes can