New-York tribune., 1918-04-21

Vary With the Time of Dav


it shrugged their shoulders and ind;ssa...,
shelved the idea as one that was neither sE ....S
able nor possible for them. 'ps-
France has a canny way of keep;no . +..,.
behind her back after it has once been rsf.A ..0a
and then bringing it out in the other bsns ~
putting it before the public in slightly .,t.--,
phase. She usually succeeds in this trick
There is no doubt that she has had sr....
in passing the waistcoat from one season -
another, for if she knows what Amer;.'~ -
women are wearing she must be delighted 49,.
her little garment, flched from the two r.n.,-
tions, can be found wherever new cloth.s .s'
women are sold.
There are waistcoats Of pique, and thera 49,.
waistcoats Of splendid Chinese brocade f...
ened with rhinestone buttons, and hetr.o.
these two extremes one finds accommodates.
shapes and coors that fit themselves n.s
whatever costume we plan.
The woman who is bent on economv su,-
that narrow coat, or one that has lost its irt
fine brilliancy is jerked up into first place h.
the addition of "a long, broad wastcoat Of nl.;r
embroidered OR brocaded stuff
Waistcoats With
High Collars
Because it was fashionable to wear high col
lars last year there are waistcoats that have
brought out these shapes and look verv ma,+
on the woman who can carry them off.
This trick is not given to more than ma
woman in hundred. Only certain kind oe
neck can stand high collar. However. fashion
does not ask US to give ourselves a double chin
by wearing tightly boned, thin collars. It is
not so unkind, but it offers loose, wrinked
fence of cloth that goes around the neck and
often lifts itself outward and upward toward
the chin. This is the kind of collar that is car
ried by the long French waistcoat, with row
of buttons from waist to chin.
While many women like fantastic waistcoats
and indulge their secret desire for bit Of
flaming color through the medium of this &C.
cessory, the majority keep to white, buff and
gray.
There is just such vest of white faille
shown IN the sketch of this good looking suit
The material is black satin. The skirt is mar.
row-why mention it?-and the coat is mod.
fled redingote. BY the way, it is trimmed with
huge cable cords, the kind that children were
taught to make in the sewing room in other
days when economy was as necessary as now.
Short Jackets With
Gingham Waistcoats
Looking at the situation from the point Of
wastage, one wonders why there are so many
separate shirtwaists in every shop. They are
hooY nod bxy+ +bo IL, u.
mounted on wooden figures; they are spread
over counters by the hundreds, and vet, when
one goes in the street, into restaurants, private
houses and theatres, there is no sign of a sepa-
rate blouse, except that here and there onesees
such waist peeping from beneath the lapels
OF the coat, Or one catches a glimpse of white
cuff when the wrist Of the sleeve moves away
from the hand
Naturally, when the hot weather comes, when
women are in the open playing golf and tennis,
sitting on country porches and moving about in
the hot sunshine, they will wear white shirt
waists These will be half covered by sleeve
less sweaters and silk jackets. They will be
part of a costume which carries white woollen
or jersey skirt; but they are not in evidence
Wherever women are congregated in large num-
bers at this season of the year.
There are as many jacket suits as ever but
as the coat is not removed the shirtwaist is not
necessary adjunct.
Coat Part of
Costume
Once upon a time, when the dictum went
forth that it was not considered smart for
woman to take off her jacket in public place
women thought that fashion was becoming too
dlctatorial for comfort. The dictum was dis
obeyed for two years or more. Then it came
about, from some undercurrent of argument OF
reasoning that no one can explain, that the
mass of women turned around and obeyed the
dictum. To-day one rarely sees woman re-
move coat in any public place.
Of course, the shops say that woman
should not wear a coat without a blouse any
more than a man should go without his Shirt
even though it does not show. Cleanliness de-
mands the long -sleeved garment next to the
skin, but women pay very little heed to tnls
bit of advice. In these days of economy theyoo
not waste shirtwaists under jackets when they
know that they are crushed into nothngness
in one day and add to the price of the Laundry
Dill in a shocking MANNER as well as to the use
Of starch.
1t is true that for reasons of cleanllnes
there are many women who will wear wnm aas