The Raymer enterprise., 1918-11-28

use Al ner belt, as one who II out for
admiration.
The Leopard and He speta
There cannot arise a critic 20 fool
Ish In these days as 10 suggest that
the militant woman IA not capable Of
looking like q Watteau shepherdess II
she takes 1t into her mind to do 90.
Therefore, our surprise Ii not that the
women Of the moment should appear
well In the English garden type Of
clothes. with which one always asso-
ciates strawberries and cream. low
voices. waving hair parted In the mid.
die. and shy. almost gauche manners,
but that they should elect this foweFy
and futile fashion at this hour.
Yet they are doing It. Both France
and America are heaping figured fab
RIGS upon Its womankind. Lace is In
stalled again. Immense bows Of tat
feta ribbon, sashes Of every kind ;
flowing. elbow sleeves; surplice necks
with wide handkerchiefs Of colored
fabrics, are shown and worn by women
who have probably spent the morning
at a class In nursing at hospital and
will spend the evening at canteen.
Isn't this q curious psychological
thingf Here we have preached for
two years the strengthening tendency
Of women to dress more and more Ike
men In the day. and either very sim
ply or in an Amazoniaa fashion In the
evening.
We have tried to standardize clothes.
foolishly, but earnestly, throughout all
channels OF dress. We know that one
Of the most important leagues Of
young women In America Ii circulate
Ing a petition. signed by Its members,
to the effect that they are to buy only
three gowns season. one for each
division Of the day. the price to be
$50 apiece, and the uniforms to be
Of standard pattern. And yet these
very girls, right on top Of such an
endeayor as this to conserve and
economize. iiins themselves into dow.
cred yoIles with pink and violet taf.
feta sashes tied with deep hustle bows
at the back, and huge hats Of Milan
straw heaped with flowers!
1t may be that the leopard cannot
change his spots, but women can GER
tainly change her type at will. She
seems to shrink and grow thin, to
curve out and grow full. to stand
higher or lower In her boots, and to
assume at will .,the militant or the
coquettIsh air. In this spring Of 1918
1t looks as though she were going to
do all Of these things at various times
Of the day.
chinese influence Preferred.
There Is not much feeling Of salts
faction In the adoption Of japanese
clothes. Once upon a time whatever
came from the Little Kingdom was
eagerly seized as having artistic merit
OF the highest order, but times and
thoughts have changed. japanese art
has been 30 cheaply commerciallzed
throughout America, and its little
shops outline the boardwalks Of the
pleasure resorts In such q prolific
manner. that we prefer to 60 to China
the vast spaces around the Great
Wall--for suggestions.
The greater designers In Paris have
preferred China to Japan for half a
dozen years. and We In America have
made the klmono too much a part Of
our early-mornlng life, at 81 per gar
ment. that we may not see In this
effort OF the house Of Cheruit an open
path TO beauty.
Entire Gowns u Jet
The house Of Callot has thrown its
influence into many channels, and the
gowns Of Its making. which arrived In
this country later than all the others.
increase the respect we must pay to
Jet. The woman who has cherished
frock Of jet and wondered II the
style would ever return In order that
she might revive 1t into something
modern. may go to the work with en-
thusiasm.
Callot is not the only designer who
whirls jet around the wheel Of fash
ion into the top place. but she Is the
one designer who introduces entire
gowns of II. These are coat.of-mail
creations, that cling to the figure like