Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1918-10-19
FALL COAT DRESS
velours or Satin Practical; Lines
Graceful and Clinging.
Separate Blouses and the Walsteoat
vosue--Models Destined to Com.
plement Tailored Suit.


For early fall wear, before II Is
cold enough to don winter suit, n
coat dress Is one Of the most practical
purchases. Fashioned Of tricolette, Of
wool velours or tricotine, as well as
heavy, double.faced satin, a dress Of
this type possesses the utmost dis
tinction, and in its tailored simplicity
is compromise between the usual
one-piece frock and the more conven.
tional coat and skirt costume.
Just at present there are any mum.
Der Of interesting frocks Of tricolette
to be seen, and their clinging, graceful
lines are most attractive. Some are
almost sheathlike In their sllmness,
and Il behOoves woman to be quite
sure that she is properly corseted be-
fore attempting such gown, for
there are no folds or draperies to
camouflage discrepancies Of figure.
Navy blue, black and rich coppery
brown are the colors which FREEDOM
mate, and while some models show a
clever use of extremely long fringe,
others have Just bit Of, heavy silk
braid about the neck or used for a
| sash.
Rarely Is there BIT Of white to
relieve the severity Of the neck line.
This Is trying fashion, but very
smart. Sometimes serge or satin Is
combined with tricolette with excellent
results. The foundation is Of navy
serge, and over this Is worn a modi.
fed tunic dress Of navy tricolette
stitched and showing novel touches
in the cut Of the sleeves and In the
flaps, which are caught down by but.
tons Of serge. ---.-.---'
Once merely an integral part Of
| the frock or blouse, the waistc0at has
cow become decisive factor In de-
termining the success of ones cos.
tune. Made of every conceivable ma
terial. II serves to break the exceed
ing simple. almost severe lines Of our
wartime frocks, and designers have
shown great ingenuity and cleverness
In planning and fashionlng these lit.
tie garments. They have gradually
heightened until nov some reach al
| iuOSt " tut huetSp NhtV VtuSis Soh'
tent themselves with stopping Just
below the walstllne. As rule a mo-
tcrIal Is chosen which In texture Is a
decided contrast 20 the gown itself.
Jersey Is placed with satin, chiffon
with serge or pique, and linen with
velour, and the effect Is always de-
lightful, especially when the trimming
takes the form Of conventional motifs
done In old-fashioned embroidery
stitches, chain stitching, done In wool
or silk-the seed stitch Of Chinese
work, as we'll as odd designs carried
out by COUGHING or cross stitching.
Separate blouses have not escaped
the waistcOat vogue, and there are
some wonderfully interesting models
destined to complement the tailored
suit which once more IL back In
favor. One blouse Of white batiste has
a waistcoat Of handkerchief linen, with
a quilted design adapted from Persian
characters. The design IL repeated on
the sleeves. Rather more simple, but
very graceful and becoming Is another
House OF rOse-colored batiste. Thii
has Il long stole collar Of sheer white
organdie Ornamented by chintz de-
signs placed back Of the fabric and
stitched to 1t with rose.colored thread