davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

Motifs and bands of sheer machine embroidery are set into organdie and batiste and even into crepe de chine collars with delicate lace insertions to define the patterns. The favorite laces are filet, French Val, baby Irish and Venise. Real Venise is used for some handsome stock and jabot com binations for wear with spring tail ored suits. Fi1et is as successful lace as Irish crochet for collar and cuff sets since it launders so beau tifully. The Val. laces look very dainty before being washed but they must be very carefully laundered to keep their first soft freshness.
 The large collars keep the rather narrow lines-that is they do not ex- tend out over the sleeves, the idea being to make the silhouette as slen- der as possible with shoulders narrow and feminine rather than broad and sturdy. But if the collars are atten- uated in width they make up for it in length; some of them come almost to the waistline at the front, outlining very deep V neck opening, which is filled in with a modestie of tulle. On a black velvet frock worn at one of the tea rooms the other afternoon was beautiful long, narrow collar evidently made of a strip of rare old Venise lace. A seam at the back Of the neck and slight point downward of the lace showed that the. strip had been shaped a bit here to make it set smoothly around the neck. Then the lace was turned under the edge of the V all the way down the decolletage which was filled in with folds of flesh tinted tulle. The lower ends of the lace strip. or the ends of the "collar" were gathered into points from which hung jet bead tassels, Narrow cuffs of the same fine old Venise turned back from the wrists of the velvet sleeves.
 Lingerie collars trimmed with mar row f1let or Val. lace are accompanied sometimes by ''puffs." or gathered un- der-sleeves which are worn under the pointed pagoda sleeves of the frock. These quaint puffed under-sleeves are very pretty innovation for the new season and are distinctly feminine in suggestion. They will be charming with summery dresses of lowered
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

thing but smart. Roses are cut out of felt. of velvet. of silk or satin and are appliqued to the hat with em- broidery silk, fine metal cord or chenille. Reboux whose crowns are highest of the high this season, is using these flat Futurist flowers with great skill on silk-and-straw, and all silk hats for spring wear.
 Hindoo Hats The Paris Craze.
 They call them hats but, of course, they are turbans, the material wound round and round over a cap like foundation to give the Hindoo turban effect. And the folds of fabric seem to be held by single great jewel, a cabuchon of rich. beautiful color, shaped and cut to represent mann moth jewel. One Hindoo turban of gold tissue is yelled with black malines and the Jewel" is a huge cabuchon of cut jet. Another turban of blue chenille straw is yelled with violet chiffon and the cabuchon gives out
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
blue and purple lights. Airy Shirred Hats For The Evening

blue and purple ugnts.
 Airy Shirred Hats For The Evening.
 You will pick out the shirred crepe hat with its silver trimming as restaurant model-which will be quite correct. These large hats of shirred, airy fabrics are being worn with evening frocks of semi-formal character at dinner hour and invari- ably the distinction of the hat lies in it's simple shape combined with handsome, flmy material. Pearls, jet and metal beads in festoons and cab uchons often trim these transparent hats very attractively. The pictured hat has a gleaming silver trimming.
 Loveliest of all the flower toques of spring-either this spring or any other spring-is the exquisite white flower and bird hat accompanied by a huff to match. There is something almost ethereal about this exquisite white hat and the white bird which seems poised to hy-just lowering over the white roses-adds to the poetic delicacy of the hat. It is hat which has-as it's maker claimed for it when it was first exhibited in Paris-"a sentiment" White flower toques promise to be very fashionable much more fashionable than the violet toques which have perennially appeared with spring. The white models are made of white violets, white hyacinths. white rose petals, white arbutus and of little white velvet flower that resembles the old fashioned Star of Bethlehem which grows by the country roadside.
 Some of the white toQues are matched by flower muffs; others are | accompanied by floating scarves of white tulle. One cannot imagine a more springlike touch for the late winter afternoon restaurant costume, than one of these fairy-like white hats matched by a white flower huff, and white tulle scarf twisted about the throat in lieu of a discarded fur neck piece.
 Considering The Back Of The Hat.
 Much attention is paid to the side and back views of the hat nova days. These must convey the correct ex- pression of line and sometimes flow CTS are tucked behind front-trimmings to surprise one from back view.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
)ZEC WEAR, - %z5z5Io12 y <I2l5z2n2S Z0lc2

lawn or organdie, or afternoon frocks of foulard or striped voile.
 Another sort of embroidery appear ing in neckwear just now is Chinese embroidery. Bits of this vivid em- broidery are set into new stocks and waistcoats with very good effect, the soft, rich colors of the embroidery adding a bit of gaiety to otherwise somber costumes. The waistcoat pie tured is of white cloth and the em- broidery is in shades of old blue, pale apricot and lilac. A band of blue and cream Chinese embroidery gives a charming touch of color on the coffee tinted stock shown in another pie ture.
 Waistcoats are the order of the day and be it added. of the day only. A waistcoat is not an evening garment for femininity as yet and woman lays aside her waistcoat with her tailored afternoon costume. donning for din ner at the restaurant something softer and daintier than this bit of borrowed masculine apparel. But man would hardly claim the feminine waistcoat as any property of his-as is, or has been. What with it's embroidered motifs, it's slashes, it's pipings, it's vagaries of shape it is as tricksy a garment as ever woman put on. A Cheruit suit for spring has a waist coat of black and white striped silk coming almost to the knee and the coat collar and cuffs match the waist coat. Another French tailleur of gray wool jersey has a waistcoat of blue wool jersey pointing ever so narrow ly down to the knees. and a row of small white buttons run from neck to knee down its center. For everyday wear there are Waistcoats of sHctleSs white pique with pearl buttons and of white or buff cloth perfectly tail ored and stitched. These will look well with spring suits of dark blue serge and the proper companion of waistcoat is a high stock collar with ascot tie or jabot.
 Stocks are so fashionable in Paris that they are being worn even with collarless frocks. The stock is made of black ribbon, twisted once or twice around the throat, the ends tied in a cravat knot and thrust within the shallow. rounded neck of the bodica
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

pressed over. And just as nobody
 was too proud to beg or borrow coal this winter, it will be considered no disgrace this spring to wear a re- pressed hat. For straw is about as scarce as anthracite was in January. Luckily, in the case of straw hats however, there are many admirable substitutes for the wanted material and nobody need look any the less charming these days because she can not afford whole hat of straw. And in some of the substitutes the clever
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

.HE BURNING QUESTION for A spring is: High or low neck A wear! Those new choker ~1 stocks that one sees above per- fectly tailored jackets are-oh, strik- ingly smart! But ones personal wish does lean toward the comfortable, turn-down collar that fashion has found it hard to displace from favor through several seasons.
 There is no doubt about the judg- ment of Paris in the matter. Paris asserts unequivocably high neck wear" and all the French neckwear that is coming over these days is tall and extremely chic. But the fact re- mains that throughout these United States three-fourths of the neckwear styles that are selling for early season wear are of the turned down, open-at- the-throat variety. So one may choose ones neckwear pose for spring-to be ultra chic and Parisian in swathing choker stocks; or to be comfortable like most of the women one knows in open-necked collars. In all prob ability both styles will be worn; the nlSn CnOk6rS Wuen 1Ofudllly anu ldtI- ored smartness are to be expressed by the costume, and the graceful low collars when comfort and convenience are to be served.
 Betwixt and between the two styles come the Buster Browns. These, as their name implies, are of starched linen, very much like little boys starched Eton collar and they are worn with soft Windsor ties and in company with turned back starched cuffs when the costume is a tailored trotabout frock of serge. They will doubtless be worn. later on, with frocks of gingham or linen and there is something very fresh and pleasing about these youthful starched collars, and natty boyishness that is engag- ing. They are becoming to all wom- en whose faces are still round with youthful curves but are trying to angular features and sagging facial contours.
 Laces and fine machine embroid- cries make the lingerie collars and cuffs exceedingly dainty. Perhaps be- cause frocks are so very simple them selves. this year, fashion has per mitted more prettiness in neckwear.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

tured; one of white Georgette with panels, or aprons at front and back to give the long lines now fav- ored; the other one of the fetchingly girlish blouses with innocent little round neck opening and babyish shir- ring at the waistline.
 Straw Hats At A Premium
 If you see woman wearing a spring hat entirely of straw this year, you may assume that she has a gen. erous dress allowance or that she is wearing a last seasons chapeau,
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

the mica chimney-and this should be twice week at least for these chim- neys seem to gather soot more readily than the glass ones-drop two spoon fuls of cider vinegar in the hot water and see how beautifully clean the chimney emerges. If you must have a glass chimney, by all means harden it to heat and cold changes by putting it in cold water, allowing the water to come gradually to a boil and then to cool of again.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
HOW TO CLEAN MICA CH1s1NEYs.

0LASS ehimneys for the ordinary M gas lamp-or drop-light as it used
 M to be called-are such distress ingly thin, brittle affairs that the least draught on the lamp usually causes the chimney to snap. Most housewives find the only chimney that can be re- lied on for service of more than few days are the rather homely but cer- tainly sturdy mica ones. wrs1 cleaning
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
D HOUGH THE SPRINGTIME hat
 and blouse are rarely bought at the same place they are apt to


 ~ and blouse are rarely bought at
 the same place they are apt to ~O be very closely associated. once they become a part of Madame's wardrobe. The fresh pretty blouse sets off the smart, simple little spring hat and calls attention to it's newness as even the handsomest winter blouse g of velvet or silk and chiffon could not, and there is the sentiment of the thing too! One feels so much more like spring in the sheer, dainty blouse of lingerie fabric that, actually, ones air carries off the hat better.
 Like the new spring hats, the spring blouses are extremely simple. They give their wearer a demure air, but the simplicity of new blouses is not to be confused in the mind for a mo- ment with plainness. A plain blouse has something stiff and school ma'am- ish, or if you like, trained nursish about it while a merely simple blouse may be the most artfully coquettish little garment in the world. Many of the new simple blouses for spring have this artful simplicity. Their
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

should learn the virtues of chicken fat as a shortening for cakes, pastry and rolls. The water in, which chicken is boiled yields quantity of such fat and every bit of fat from fried chicken should be saved. Strain the fat and keep it in bowl byself and try it as a shortening; you will find it excel lent as veu as economical
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
SHORTEN WAR CAKE WITH
 CHICKEN FAT.

A HE EGGLESS., butterless, milk
 less war cake which everybody
 NN is making now (and which is exceedingly toothsome) is not par ticularly economical if one must
 buy shortening for it. In these days of food conservation every woman
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

Stocks with jabots are exceedingly good style and they are very practical for early spring wear, protecting the throat when the fur scarf is left off.
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13
Girlish Blouse with Round Collar and Drdw StEelnS WdlstIine =
 SdilorwIthLoM Crown, and FloPPy Brirn of- -StraM

y A hat of this sort is displayed in a Fifth avenue milliner's window this week. The crown is exactly like a tea cozy; two semi-circles of black satin joined around the edge with black silk cord; the brim a mush- room affair of even width and slant downward from the tea cozy all around, and covered also with black satin. The trimming a wide tapestry blue ribbon crushed around the base of the tea cozy crown and tied in an exceedingly smart bow across the back of the brim. All one would need to achieve this stunning little spring hat would be crinoline. satin. silk cord and yard or two of ribbon. Plus, of course, a certain amount of imita- tive skill. Usually, in copying millin- ers' hats at home, too little attention is given to proportion. Color, ma terial, style are reproduced faithfully but when finished the homemade hat is disappointing. This is because it's proportions have not been carried in the minds eye.
 Moufflon Straw Is Furry.
 There are two new straws in spite of the acknowledged scarcity of straw hats this spring. One of these new straws is mouff1on, the other chenille straw. Both are exceedingly supple and pliable and both have a slightly furry appearance that is considered very smart in combination with the smoother lisere or milan straws. A new straw braid, very lustrous and satiny in texture and beautiful in it's coloring, is another addition to hat materials. Felt appears on the spring hat but only in the form of flowers. Futurist flowers they are called, and their stiff, conventional shapes are appliqued fiat against the hat so that it's lines are not interfered with. A bunch of nodding roses might be de- lightfully natural and suggestive of summer at the side of a new restau- rant hat, but the effect would be any
The Bridgeport times and evening farmer., 1918-04-13

A smart stock-and-jabot of fine coffee colored lace is pictured, one of the
 many models of the sort now shown in new neckwear displays.
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
EDITOR AND
NON-PARTIsAN SPAT

The last of the week a man an.
preached Editor Trego and started
a conversation that contained vol
ume on matters of current interest
and ran as follows:
Farmer-"Mr. Trego, who is II
that puts these articles in the Repub-
lican about the Non-partisan
league?"
Trego-"tWhy do most of Them
Farmer Well, we're going to
cut you out. We won't stand for that
kind of stuff. We are going to put
you out of business"
Trego-"Very we'll. In other
words you are speaking for the
league and you are going to fight
me-"
Farmer" That's what we are
going to do. We are going to put
in a paper of our own and stop
yours
Trego-"I am ndt surprised at
that announcement. have said for
about year that the league shows
signs of acting on that principle that
does not tolerate anything or any,
body that differs from their views.
You fellows who are leading the
league activities want everybody to
think just as you think and act as
you act or he hasn't any right to
live. That's why I have lost conf
dence in you. That is why you viii
fight me, and that is why I will fight
you. | claim the right for every man
to have his own opinions and to act
on them within the law"
Farmer "See here Trego-an-
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
GERMAN PEOPLE
SELL WAR BONDS

BASEL, Switzerland.-Ther are
persistent rumors among the work.
ing classes in Germany, according to
advices received here, that Ger
manys imperial bonds may become
valueless.
The rumOrs have their basis in the
repeated entente victories. The peo-
pie of numerous towns are said to be
unloading their war loans at extra
ordinarily low prices and a panic
seems imminent.
The German newspapers are pub
fishing long appeals in endeavors to
tranquilize public feeling. 1t is re-
commended above all other methods
that persons who desire to sell gov
eminent bonds do so .ru the banks,
which are ready always to advance
cash upon bonds in the usual way.
The public is further advised to re-
member that the German empire
guarantees the loans.
Peasants and small business peo-
pie, says the appeal, should be the
last to dispose of their bonds, be-
cause at the moment of demobiliza-
ton they will be able to buy useful
of all sorts. When that time
comes buyers paying with national
bonds will be given preference.
The document on which the ap-
peals are based calls upon the Ger
mans to show their patriotism and
also their opposition to the propa-
ganda of rumQSs about war bonds,
which are causing great injury to
the empire.
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
STIRRING UP STRIFE
AMONG OURSELVES

Almost every day one hears dis
cussions about the Non-partisan
league and its activities, and one of
the things the league members nearly
always bring out in the course of
their talk is something like this:
''The farmefy are the backbone of
this community. II it were not for
the farmers Of this county the peo-
pie in the towns would starve to
death. The people Of the towns are
supported by the people on the
farms, etc., ETC., ETC."
There is no occasion to be thrash
ing over such stuff as that. 1t is as
useless and senseless as>to start peo-
pie to wrangling over that old cues
ton invariably brought up for anna
teur debaters, Resolved that water
is more destructive than fire."
The editor of this paper lives in
one OF the towns, and works at the
JOB OF producing a newspaper alike
for people in town and out. Down
at our house we buy more or less
butter and eggs and various other
fine foods from the farms, and we
have always supposed the people
oSAAAAo SAooC PAOuuCIb were dS
glad to have the money as we were
to have the food. We have always
been as glad to receive the farmers
money across the counter as the town
peoples, and we have always as
sumed that 1t was a good exchange
in both cases., and that. the same
thing might be said of all our other
transactions.
The men who have nothing better
to do now days than to be string
up bad feeling among ourselves and
agitating such stuff as that, have lit
tie to do, and add to. peoples convic-
lions that they are merely the. tools
of the enemies of the country. When
ever one class Of workers are held
up as the whole thing, and they are
told to bow to them just because of
their great importance, it, is time
for somebody to tell them that they
are merely an important part of the
whole business and social fabric, and
must be considered and given their |
dues and'the protection which justice !,
and fair play would dictate. This is
not a one-man country, but America !
and her allies are fighting one-man
country across the seas, and COM
batting his spies and helpers in Amer
lea who seek in every way they can,
to stir up strife among ourselves dur
ing the war.
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
PRICE OF BREAD FIXED

The local food administration has
just received the following telegram:
Boise, Idaho, Oct, 8, 1918
George F. Gagon, fw.
Blackfoot, Idaho.
AS the result of investigation and
resolution passed at our Boise con-
ference October 5, national food ad-
ministration authorizes putting into
effect in Idaho October Is. 1918
maximum fair prices on bread of g
cents wholesale and 10 cents retail
for the sixteen ounce loaf unwrapped
and proportionable prices on other
sizes. But where lower fair price
basis has already been established
in any county such prices should be
maintained. In no case shall a re-
taller make more than / cent per loaf
profit for handling bread. Report
any violations promptly to this office
together with evidence thereon in
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
THE BOY COTTERS
ARE BUSY HERE

Ten and fifteen years ago the boy
cot was favorite weapon in further
ing the designs Of thhe Western Fed
GRAFTON of Miners and various other
unions. At first it was very effective.
but it made bitter enemies because
of the rank injustice it wrought, and
because 1t was so un-American. 1t
gradually lost favor among the peo-
pie, and legislation was framed to
curb 1t, until now it is punishable by
fine and Imprisonment so severe
that it has been practically aban-
doned. Public sentiment is so strong
against it that whenever people see
a boycott is being operated no mat
ter how slight or how we'll it's tracks
are covered they are prejudiced
against those who operate it.
1t is very difficult to convict the
operators of boycott. 1t must be
proved that the person actually said
and did things to influence others
directly to withhold their patronage
from those they oppose. Any man
may shift his own business to suit
himself, but the moment he goes to
his neighbor to, get him to take his
patronage away from anyone, he has
taken the step that constitutes boy
cot. If he operates to change the
business Of large number of persons
he may ruin business, and each
separate act that is designed to
change one individual customer con-
stitutes complete crime, and is pun
ishable II it can be proved.
OF course those things are done
every day, but only occasionally does
anyone pay any attention to them or
institute criminal proceedings. 1t is
species of offense that is so mani
testify unfair and un-American and.
spiteful that it brings it's own punish
ment by reaction. Fair minded peo-
pie come to despise the one who will
resort to such methods. A person
or firm that has such enemies merely |
pockets the loss and waits for the |
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15
SPENT A FEW
HOURS TN BLACKFOOT

Lieutenant G. A. Marlowe formerly
teacher in the Blackfoot high
school spent few hours in Black
foot Saturday, between trains. He
was enroute from Boise to Camp Nc
Arthur, Tex.
Miss Margaret Moody, former
resident of Blackfoot, but now ,liv-
ing in Boise, and Lieutenant Marlowe
were married Monday, at the home
of the brides parents in Boise.
Mrs. Marlowe expects to remain in
Boise for the present.
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15

swer me this-dont the farmers Of
this county support you and your
paper?"
Trego-"See here fellow-don't-I +
and my newspaper force render
dollars worth Of service for every
dollar We receive from everybody"
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15

order that we may take necessary
steps thru national administration
for the cancellation of the Offenders
license. Give publicity and make
bread prices effective October Is, &C
cordingly.
BICKNELL."
The Idaho Republican. [volume] (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1904-1932, 1918-10-15

rebound. Anyone who would resort
to boycott against one person or
class will employ the same weapon
against the others when it suits his
within, and people do not readily go
out serving such tickle friends.