davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

And, OF course, the early bird will have
to be sixty minutes earlier IL the worm abides
by the daylight saving law.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

u 1t Is reassuring to
He's Almost as Mean know that the war A.
nun Europe isn't to lessen
the energy of the war
on the Jersey mosquito Would the nac,ests
enlist In this general cause?
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

We feel sure that Russia is sound AT tho
core. It's now UP to us to see that Ger
many does not get the core
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

A Berlin newspaper implies that Ger
many is ready to swallow several of the
Presidents fourteen peace terms. Our armies
will have to rub the others in.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

Hog Island lost lot
They Used to he of free energy when
Bonermakers the jazz bands go,
away
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

If Admiral Coghlan were reciting that
poem now he would make the refrain "Mein-
self und der Teufel"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

Some one has dis
Not Meant covered that 1900 Of
seriously' hcers, many of them of
draft age. hold cleri-
cal Jobs In Washington. Might n be said of
the desk men that they are chary?
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25
What Do You Know?
QUIZ

I. why Is the railway beetle 20 designated:
x. What Is the cause OF ,auicksand formations?
8. What Is the purpose Of the Inter-AlIied War
Council? E.t
T. Why are the Germans buying the hair Of
women tn conquered territories?
o. Name the motive power that has reyolu.
uonixed agricultural methods.
q. Describe the first fas Of the United States.
a. When was coffee first generally used as n
beveraEeY
8. What Is the nativity Of George Bernard
ShawT y
q. What is n machete?
TO- Who commanded the last great German drIye
at the British linesf
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

Is the Hun himself
Ihe answer or the hunger that is
Is Both" In the Hun responsible
for the latest drive?
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25
Farmers Might
Use Them

Government firds itself compelled TO jail and
feed and guard lot of men whose con-
sciences are 30 tender that they will neither
fight nor even do constructive work for the
army because of spiritual scruples. Yet this
alternative actually faces the Government
in the case of thousands of drafted men of
pacifist tendencies.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-03-25

The theory OF paci-
fism will sink a little
lower in general esti-
Evening star., 1918-04-07

drawn from all the epochs preceding
this one, are used in coats, which gives
the economical woman chance to re-
furbish her last years suit and feel
herself quite in the picture. The
French designers knew that they were
Offering sop to the economists In
promoting this accessory.
Sturdy pique has been revived for those
who do not care to invest in hand
kerchief linen. perishable batiste or
expensive flowered voile. These suits
and frocks of pique are trimmed with
velvet. as In older days. and all the
dyes that France has manufactured for
her own use have been brought to bear
upon white and cream lace in order to
make harmonious costumes; and this
trick again gives the woman Of slender
means a chance to look exceedingly
smart through the medium of dipping
yellow lace in a small quantity Of re-
liable dye.
Paris has sent over multiple num-
Der OF short, straight Jackets. with
fronts that do not meet, and In the
space between is displayed a frilled
front with a turnover collar and a
dotted foulard cravat. This little front
Is basted into the coat, and thereby
saves one from using a whole shirt
waist, with its accompanying laundery
bill
We have demure capes made OF gabar-
dine and serge which are as serviceable
as those worn by the Italian police,
and those who care for the quietness OF
distinguished clothes can put one of
Evening star., 1918-04-07

shown by the French designers, as they
have expressed their genius In the new
clothes, to omit all the fabrics that are
sensible and economical. Black satin.
blue serge. gray jersey, cloth and sew
eral shades of gabardine are ruling
street costumery.
Metal tissues and laces are 1avfshly
used for the afternoon and the even
ing, but they are sobered by miles of
chiffon. Sturdy crepe de chine, which
looks fragile and is not, is offered In
the smartest gowns for the street.
There are one-piece frocks as we'll
as suits, and capes have superseded
topcoats. Elaborate and expensive
embroidery has given way to orna-
mentation by means Of wool or twine,
and intricate machine stitching Is
abandoned in favor Of bits Of applied
material straight rows Of military
braid or folds Of corded satin.
X
Lace is used as though Belgium had
been reinstated and every one of the
lace weavers working overtime.
Flounces. capes. sleeves and panels Of
lace are dropped on narrow. slim UNDER
slips of satin.
Satin and serge are combined for
those who want to wear a frock for
the next six months without feeling
uncomfortably warm or cold.
WaistcoAts. the styles OF which were
Evening star., 1918-04-07
HERE AND THERE
IN THE SHOPS

~NE Of the new sport skirts 10 made
W Of striped wool. the stripes running
up and down. The skirt 10 90 cut thSt
hip depth In the back. and they meet
at the back seam In = crosswise direc-
tion. The two stripes directly In front
run from waist TO hem. forming q
panel. The two next stripes. one on
each side Of the front. are mitered At
hem depth. and SO on each two stripes
are mitered higher and higher until
those at the back are mitefed at hip
depth.
One OF the new chiffon fabrics Is made
with q deep border running along one
side of silver embroidery, in rich and
intricate design.
straw flowers, not q novelty this sea-
Son, are shown On some Of the new
hats. The very fact that they are not
q novelty has given them . chance TO
show what they are worth, and we all
know from experience c. that =, they are
hard wear.
Tulle is sold all pleated. by the yard,
to place about the crown and brim Of
the straw hat This tulle comes with
wide f1ouncing, laid in p1eats, to place
over the brim Of the hat. and q. mar
rover houncins likewise laid in pleats.
to stand upright about the crown. A
soft folded band Of tuile that goes
about the bottom Of the crown connects
the two widths Of founcing. With 9
big flower, perhaps, placed against the
crown where the tul1e Is Joined, the hat
trimming is complete.
We have heard and seen much OF
braid this season. One striking suit Of
edges. including the hem pf. the
skirt. bound with sslf-colored braid a
couple Of inches wide. The sleeves.
long. and faring over the hand. are
slashed at the outside seam and this
slashing, of course. is also bound with
the braid.
There are already shown In the shops
square sunshades Of white satin. with
black velvet ribbon bound about the
edge-or rather applied about the edge
The velvet forms bane Of two or three
inches.
The new shade Of red known AZ viii
son red or Swiss red Ii really very
taking. especially early in the spring
It ought to look well even In mid
summer at the seashore or in the coun-
try, but, of course. the favor In which 4
color is held at this date ID no criterion
At all events. just now all sorts Of odds
and ends are featured in this clear
new shade Of red. Especially effective
are the many red beads that shop keep
ers have dug up from some forgotten
corner and that manufacturers have
rushed to the shops. They are strik-
ingly pretty with white biouses and
especially FOR the young girl.
Evening star., 1918-04-07
BOOKS RECEIVED.

MANUAL OF MILITARY MAPS. By
James NJ. Hutchinson. lieutenans
colonel, forth Infantry. q. s. A.. ana
Andrew J. MacElroy. captain. zed
Aero Squadron, u. s. A. New Yor8s
d. Appleton & Co.
MAKING A SOLDIER. BY Maj. Gen.
william A. Pew (retired. Mass. n.
g.. colonel OF the late sth MassA.
chusetts Infantry. q. s. v. Boston:
Richard G. Badger.
YOUR VOTE AND HOW TO USE IT.
of organization of the New York
State Woman Suffrage Party. With
foreword by Mrs. Carrie Chapman
Gait, president Of the National
American Woman Suffrage Assoctae
ton. New York: Harper & Bros.
THE NEGRO, IN LITERATURE AND
ART IN THE UNITED STATES. BY
benjamin Brawley. author Of "A
Short History Of the American
Negro" etc. New York: Dufnela
& Co.
CHRIs1os CHALLENGE TO MAND
SPIRIT IN THIS WORLD CR1gI9.
Advent Addresses at the CatAearAl
OF 81. John the Divine. New York.
BY George william Douglas, D. D.
S. T. D. New York: Longman4
Green & Co.
AND WAR AIMS. Replies to the
questionnaire. New York: George
H Doran Company.
TO BAGDAD WITH THE BRITISH. BY
Arthur Tillotson Clark. Illustrated
New York: d. Appleton & Co.
OUT THERE. BY Charles W. White.
hair Illustrated. New York: d.
Appleton & Co.
A STUDY IN ENGLISH METRICs. By
Adelaide Crapsey. New York: Ais
fred A. Knopf.
SONGS OF THE sHRAPNEL sHELLp
And other Verse. BY Cyril Morton
Horne, killed in action January 81.
1916. New York: Harper & Bros.
THE WOMAN VOTERS MANUAL. BY
S. E. Forman and Marjorie Shulier.
With an introduction by Carrie
Chapman Gait. New York: The
Century Company.
AMERICA AFTER THE WAR. BY an
American jurist New York: The
Century Company.
FROM THE WORLD
WAR. By Baron Won Freytag-Lor-
inghoven, lieutenant general and
deputy chief Of the German imperial
staff New York: G. p. Putnam'e
Sons.
THE FATHER OF A SOLDIER. By w.
J. Dawson. author of Robert Shen.
stone" etc. New York: John Lane
Company.
LETTERS TO THE MOTHER OF a
SOLDIER. BY Richardson Wright
author of THE Russians. An In.
depreciation" New York: Fred
erIck A. Stokes Company.
DESIRE. New and enlarged edition.
BY Charlotte Eaton, author OF "A
Last Memory OF Robert Louis Stew.
enson." New York: Dufieid & Co.
FIELD ARTILLERY OFFrCERsD
NOTES. Covering tables Of organ
ixation, battery administration. held
practice. articles on the compass.
buzzer. maps. target bracketing.
smoke bomb practice, celebration OF
guns. principles of fire, range tables
and, hints for junior officers. Conn
piled by Capt. William II. Caldwell.
F. A. r. c.. field artillery instructor.
Piattsburg training camp. Under
the direction Of Lieut.. Col Robert
N. Danford, r. A.. U. s. A. New
York; E. p, Dutton 4 Co, -.
Evening star., 1918-04-07
Gay Fashions Looked Upon as Symbolic Of Changed SpM


self part and parcel Of this new move
ment.
Tuiie u not used In that way. It
does not 70 over the ahoulderA II -
nshde ifto voiumihous sleevSbs N 10
wrapped about the waist or the hips
and forms a hustle bow at the side
or back; It is tied straight around the
neck, with q huge bow ~ the back or
under the chin, II the face can stand
it: it is made Into bat-like cape and
attached to the shoulders and arms
with jet bracelets; 1t makes no pre-
tense 3f matching the color Of the
q somber gown from the shadows into
the sunlight.
Evening star., 1918-04-07

travarancs. this optimism. caught
France up in q swirl of hope and hap
piness. The people saw victory. tne
poor saw riches. the depressed saw Nv
eayety, and we have the result IN tne
clothes of March. i.
The confusing part about this situa-
ton is that America Is getting INTO tne
spirit OF economy and somberness tnat
Paris had year ago. our reIoImeIs
preach Standardization, uniformity In
clothes: our economists preach conser-
walton; our emotionalists beg us to go
about in black, without smiles and
turning our heads from the wiies OF
pleasure, as though we were early
But will we? That Is the stupendous
question to be decided this month. II
the clothes at Palm Beach In February
were any evidence of what will happen
then Paris was right and our prophets
are wrong.
We have the money, and we have
the Anglo-Saxon spirit. Now, VIII we
wear black. standardized clothes, ugly
and cheap. and reduce ourselves to
procession Of unsmiling dullness or will
we catch at the gayety and pleasure
and laughter that are shown in the new
Paris clothes. and wear them with
the same spirit of bravado that Is
trenches? They don't spend their time
renouncing the pleasures and gayeties
of life.
It will be a hard lesson for US to
learn, to Judge between flippant ex-
travagance and good-looking clothes
that express optimism and belief in
ourselves and the situation. There's
not a soldier in this country who does
not beg the women folks he knows to
dress their best and look their prettiest
for his last vision Of them.
Considering all these things. is 1t
not probable that the American woman
will accept the French spirit as wen
as the French clothes, and that we may
turn into a season OF extraordinary
good dressing that is neither tmmodest
nor unfeeling?
Among the new evening gowns from
Frence this spring the twelfth century
tunic is as frequently seen as in the
street gowns, but the effect OF the two
is strongly differentiated For the
evening tho designers use a narrow.
slim, primative slip of satin or metallic
cloth, the latter preferred. Over this
slip drops much wider, more volumi-
nous, transparent robe. 1t is cut like a
chenise; 1t has half low decolletagei
the sleeves usually cover the entire
arm, but are cut to fall half a foot
away from II, and the entire effect is
one of exquisite yelling.
Doucet does this in the most brill
liant manner, and he shows his COM
petitors something in the way of an
underslip, making a corslet and then
short skirt Of soft gold tissue, which
gives far more graceful. undulating
movement of the body when 1t Is seen
beneath the transparent chemise.
There are chemise gowns Of rare lace,
seldom in white. but in ivory tints and
also in cloudy gray. These are dropped
over a slim underslip Of tissue, silver
Of color is given by an extraordinary
sash. 1t may be OF Chinese blue tat
feta. of splendid Chinese brocade, Of
deep gold and black brocaded ribbon,
and one end of 1t always trails down
the back panel and adds to the brill
liancy of the short train.
Mind you. there is no disposition
Evening star., 1918-04-07

CRITICAL In x6080 W0E 08yA
4
u +
But Paris does not stop at these de-
mure capes. Her ecstatic mood shows
itself in capricious and exquisite gar
ments called capes. which are fash
iorled for afternoon and evening wear.
They are made in Chinese colors. in
Slavic tones. Of satin and chiffon and
metal embroidery. Sometimes they are
maroon colored failIe lined with light
blue tafreta and worn over D gray
gown of crepe de chine or satin and
chiffon.
There is no disputing the fact that
French women have yielded to the
American desire to wear short skirts
on the street. and the skirts OF suits
In these new clothes are both marrow
and short. The women who appeared
on the street in them without ieggings
or high shoes have created unpleasant
criticism, which should compel them to
change their style.
The smart women run a logging or
hem OF these short skirts. and the efHect
Is military and pleasing. But at the
very moment that we are accepting
with enthusiasm this continued style
prophets say that the real French
skirts are growing longer. And the
smart American designers say the same.
They are making the garments slim,
without using an inch of surplus mate
rial, but they are dropping them to the
ankles, onitting the 1eggings and the
high boots, and coming back to the
hat-heeled pumps with broad ribbon
bows across the vamp.
Three or four of the best houses in
New York emphasize these skirts, ana
those who are tired Of the brevity OF
the skirts we have worn for years are
accepting this new type OF garment
with more than the usual enthusiasm.
II 1t had fullness it would be iinpos-
sible for street usage. but Its narrow
ness and the slight bias line at the
sides, that comes from the material
being pulled backward and upward,
and an artistic contrast to the pre-
vailing garment.
Even when France starts out to be
demure she changes her mind ana gets
"a little fling Of fayety into the most
somber gown. For example. she makes
black satin restaurant frock in the
style of the eleventh century, with
the long chemise, the slight gird1ing
about the hips and the half-low decol-
letage. Well and good. But she Is
she gets to the armholes and the neck
line, s6 she swings In pair OF floating
Chinese sleeves Of jade green tulle
edged with jet. and she winds mar
neck, pulls its fullness up over the
chin and weights its ends with jet
tassels. When green isn't used, kings
blue or wine color is chosen.
Every French designer used what
she could Of colored tulle. There must
have been a competition over there
as to who could reduce the amount Of
tulle in France most quickly.
One designer took 1t into her head
to omit white collars and use as . sub
stitute tulle wrapped about the neck
and tied in a bow. This fashion is
already considered quite smart over
here. In restaurants. for luncheons and
for any affair where the hat is re-
tained the tulle which covers 1t forms
this collar, and sometimes drops in
long ends from the nape Of the neck to
the knees.
Now. don't jump to the conclusion that
you can pick up two or three yards Of
colored maline, put 1t over your shoul-
ders in the fashion that has been ac-
ceptable for four years, and think your
Evening star., 1918-04-07

AUTOGRAPHS BouaHr AND s0I.D.
sATRIGYKo Yoak < HApFaAN Sss N rR TR,daNh A
SgToaa AsA ESfSsRa 81 pE,ilaTSH n EAnSSH fS: S:
sSsS ssSssI;S. szssS sz1ssSSG Q: alss2ess!. ~ 8, iSsss
n ~
Evening star., 1918-04-07
NJ AHH1 RrrTENHoUsE.
scprauas ma y ~ ls,Cus Nswspsp

- fnYa haa sent her Clothes over
HU hare, We have viewed them.
They hays been an. aoesp.aD.s sasas y, N
= o large measure and approved OF
IN fufl measure. And yet We don't
understand why they should be as they
are they are q somersault from "hae
has been. Paris has preached demure-
ness. economy. simplicity and modesty'
1rer clothes have been symbolic OF the
tidal wave of depression that swept
over her spirit since 1914.
Those who had not gotten INSIDE m
FORMATION from the sartorial 'front.'
Ahese who had not read illuminating
e.hles. those who had not had con-
Ser.afspns with Observers who had ar
faved ffum Paris full Of Information
xooN Il as a matter Of course that the
Suwns which arrived on the 4th OF
March would represent occurrences and
she lack of extravaganza which had
soverned the clothes of other seasons
during the war.
They had reason to believe that the
AID status would remain. but many OF
40 Aid NOT believe 1t. We knew the
change that was coming over the lace
"A the waters in Paris, and the exhloi-
lions Of these French clothes, whicn
have taken place every day Tor ABOUT
four weeks, have been profoundly in
Ssrestinr to the student of psychology.
Serhaps even more than to the student
of dress.
Do you realize why Paris has sent
IN over such brilliant. alluring. rich
eaothes? Il IL because American money
has burst upon her with such force
that she has gone up In a balloon ng-
Sr4tively speaking.
France settled herself down Tor de-
iuurs clothes on the day of the war
AND has kept to this contract WIZ
..1r consnellinr the rest Of the world
- dress Iikewise; but in the autumn OF
lar there burst upon her astonishea
1is;on the vanguard OF America. Iney
we're not commercial buyers; they were
not cosmopolitan multi-miihohalres
who aped the French woman. .,+4v..
az s country whose vastness ana re-
aources France had only guessed at;
Roys in blue flannel sailor SUITS nau
bank ACCOUNTS Of $40 900 each; women IN
Red CROSS uniforms could anord soVo
fser gown, II they wished: prtvates In
fhaki paid their bills without looking
st their change: canteen workers hid
under their collars strings Of pearls
worth t5o,eOO. All these ,Americans
lauxhed and went to the theater and
ordered expensive dinners and 1oked
with the midinettes-
The stream Of people and money kept
1ouring in. Each week it was doubled.
When Christmas came millions OF
francs poured into the French houses
tor holiday gifts to be SAINT to America.
Nobody seemed to care what was spent.
30 much for that picture.
i Now for its effect on the French
mind, and especially on the minds of
the designers. who catch at every straw
for Inspiration.
This wealth. this gayety, this ex-
Evening star., 1918-04-07
Pleasing Hubby.

Butcher-What cut. madam?
Hhe-One from the lower part OF tbs
animal, please. Hubby says most -.
S6oe oo11 - - A1GA -
Evening star., 1918-04-07

AMERICA AMONG THE NATIONS. By
n. II. Powers, author of ''The Things
Men Fight For.'' New York: The
Macmillan Company.
Evening star., 1918-04-07

these over q slightly worn and much
used frock. thereby tnciostn9 an old
friend in q new frame and presenting
q brave front to wofld that 10 not teo
critical In these war day4
Evening star., 1918-04-07

One OF the new chiffon fabrics Is made
with q deep border running along one
side of silver embroidery, in a rich and
intricate design.
McNairy County independent. (Selmer, McNairy County, Tenn.) 1902-1969, 1918-11-29
Christmas Roll Call, A. R. c..
December 1923.

For this work of enlisting every
body in McNairy county as Red Cross
workers, ! earnestly urge the help Of
all the war organizations, and partic-
ularly do | urge the help of the War
Savings organization. Let every men,
Der Of the committee get ready for
this important work and let the week
of December 1923 be spent in an
earnest endeavor to get all your peo-
pie to join this splendid Red Cross
organization. We want the emblem
Of the Red Cross in every home in
McNairy county, and a Red Cross
button worn by all of US before the
Christmas Of 1918 comes. So get to
work in youridifferent localities, and
present the matter to everybody; let
none be overlooked. Literature will
be sent out and all the information
given you that can be had. 1t will
cost the member only one dollar, and
that entities you to membership until
January !, 1920. This button is q
badge Of honor, and let it be worn by
all. w. K. ALTERNATELY. Chm.
McNairy County independent. (Selmer, McNairy County, Tenn.) 1902-1969, 1918-11-29
Mr.. Conger came from Jackson and
spent the weekend in Selmer.

Mr.. Conger came from Jackson and
spent the weekend in Selmer.
A. B. Hamm. of Ramer, was a bus.
mess visitor to this Office Monday.
Mr.. and Mrs. F. D. Sanders, are re
joicing over the arrival of new baby
girl.
MIR. and Mrs. R. 0. Smith, of Men,
phis, visited friends and relatives in
Selmer last week.
Mr.. and Mrs. ]. H. Bigger and lit
tie" daughter Rachel were shopping
Tuesday at Corinth.
Mr.. and Mrs. Neal jenkins, of Chat
tanooga. arrived Wednesday to spend
a few days with relatives and friends.
Neal is Yardmaster for the N. G. &
st. L., at Chattanooga, and is one OF
the most thorough railroad men in
the country.
Chas. Dunaway has returned on a
thirty day leave Of absence from the
city Of Washington. He is in fine
health, and it is optionary with him
to return or be discharged as a guard
in the War Dept. Building. We are
inclined to believe he prefers McNairy
county to the Capitol.
Misses Docia and Nola Wilson, of
Sheffield, came Wednesday to spend
Thanksgiving with their mother, Mrs.
Victoria Wilson, of the Wilson Hotel.
Miss Docia is with the Richardson &
Robinson Grocery Co., and Miss Nola
is in the employ Of the government
as stenographer for officials at Shelf
field.
Rev. E. M. Buck, pastor of Selmer
supply circuit last year, came down
from Jackson Saturday and remained
over Sunday. He delivered good
sermon at the Methodist church Sun
day morning. All the folks were real
glad to see Bro. Buck, for everybody
who knows him likes him. He has a
passionate near Benton, KY, and is
very pleasantly situated.
John L. Wisdom, Of Jackson, came
down to transact business in Selmer
Saturday, and met several of his old
Purdy friends, among them being the
editor of the Independent and John
Robert Adams. He is a member of
the old W. s. Wisdom family which
was prominent in this county two
score years ago. He is now one Of
Jackson's most influential citizens.