The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-06

The psychological effect of the New Year on the trade of women's apparel is perceptible even to the most careless onlooker.
 The trade sings the refrain of one or our popular war songs, Do Something, DO Something, Do What You Can" An appeal must be made to the public. It cannot be made with any success on the sound and conservative basis of selling clothes to those who need them as a pro- lection from winter cold. That partcu- lar kind of trading long since ceased to exist Exploitation, stimulation and advertising are necessary during each month of the year except october and May, in order to lure the coin from the purse of the public.
 This month of January witnesses the annual performance of stirring stunts to keep the women interested in the ques- ton of apparel. Heretofore the traders have had two excellent pegs on which to hang new clothes at this time of the year: the exodus to Palm Beach and the incoming of midseason French fash ions.
 But this January the trade has added third peg to the row on which the two others were placed. They have had sop thrown to them by the government in the nature of a request to make gowns out of as little wool as possible, and they have pledged themselves in body to keep within the 41s-yard measurement for suit or gown.
 This third peg was an actual stimulus to production. It offered broad white way to exploitation. It fairly bubbled and seethed with advertising possibili- ties It was taken up by the trade as eagerly as brilliant phrase of states man is caught up by the multitude and made part of an appeal to war.
 Propaganda, propaganda is the thing" said all those who trade in clothes. Each man jumped to his scissors, his pencil and his material and went to work to beat all his competitors in producing a costume to which he could point with pride and say, with spreading, arro- gant gesture, this Is the ultimate pin nacle on which art and economy can stand entwined."
 T have made gown from 11s yards Of worsted," said a famous Fifth avenue 
 T hope the woman is," said the lis- tener.
 '.Oh, I have added other materials quickly explained the designer. 'The gown does not affect the minimum of visibility"
 The frock had to be brought down from the workrooms to prove the point that its wearer would not break the law of economy in wool or that of proper dra- pery. It was of black woolen material made with bodice that became bih in front and a long panel in black fas- tened with bone buttons from neck tc heels. The underslip was of pleated black satin, with q sash of itself that tied loosely over the wide sandwich back.
 This is only one example out of hun dreds that are being offered.
 A CHANGE FOR THE TRADE
 Exploitation Is the life. of the trade 1T women's clothes. When the government joined hands with the traders in helping them over serious situation, there was joy in the land of apparel. On every side we hear of efficiency blouses, econ only gowns and conservation suits. Eacf firm assures us that less than thre' yards of wool Is employed in each eos tune, because the firm Is too patriotic to withstand the appeal of the govern ment.
 The traders are trying to go the gov ernment lone better and not even reaci the maximum measurement of Az yard per suit. Appeals were made by th' French ambassador to the French gov