davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
The New French Draperies
Float in House and Street

The severity that America lays down for
us in the morning is easily changed into a
floating gracefuncss as laid down by France
for the late afternoon and evening.
1t is yet to be seen whether America will
go in extensively for afternoon gowns, ac-
cording to the French custom, but there is
one thing Of which we are quite certain-if
the American woman likes an afternoon gown
she will wear it through the evening. unless
some formallty Of entertainment demands a
more ornamental frock
France has cut her silhouette as slim as the
American designer has cut it for tailored cos
tunes but France gives note of the First
Empire in the seductive way in which she
drapes this narrow foundation with floating,
transparent material
The trick is not confined to house costumes:
1T plays good role in street gowns also, in a
modified and demure manner A tunic of
Geor2ette crepe, for example, will be dropped
over slim undcrslip Of silk or satin, and the
sleeves will float away from the arms and
come back suddenly to the wrists, where they
are tightly caught in. But this gown will not
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14

teras; it is made of thin organdy, often
mounted over itself and trimmed with lace
and serving for the four hot months of the
year.
There will be no limit to the usage of or
CANDY in America this season. One dress
maker took an order for twelve gowns of it
on the coldest day of February She said
this was just the beginning of her trade in
organdy costumery, so that is a bit of i'm
portant news that the woman who is doing
home sewing will like to know.
Another French trick which is shown in the
new clothes and which should be eagerly
erasped by the woman who is manufacturing
new frocks for herself, is the use of narrow
strips OF Angora as ornamentaton Have
you an Old sweater? Cut it up and trim a
new gown with it,
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
The Sash as characterization
Redeems Last Years Frock

Still another economical trick that France
gives us with her blessing is the sash 1t is
used on gowns that SAVIOR strongly of other
years, and yet the novelty of it's arrangement
is such that it lifts the gown Immediately out
of mediocrity.
Jet frock, for instance is loosely dropped
over narrow lining of satin, and there is a
Chinese blue silk sash that is made from a
long loop at the right side of the back, which
is run through by a long streamer starting
from the left side. This streamer ends with
slim train of black tulle and is frnged at
the edge
These sashes are used to enliven evening
frocks in demure colors, but they are not
omitted on street gowns. If you have blue
serge that needs alteration. remember that
the French take piece of Chinese or Japan
ese crepe, called "obi' crepe in Japan, twist
it around the hips and finish it with a flat
bow and ends at the side of the back. Eight
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
Capes In All Colors and Materials
More Important Than Gowns

II any woman tries to get away from tho
wearing OF a cape to-day she must apnlv an
unusual amount of obstinacy and determ;na-
ton to her escape
lhere IS no reason for her to argue against
the cape on the ground that her figure ;s
SLIM or stout, short or long, for this cloak &c
one that covers all defects In it's modern
version 1t is almost shapeless and graceful
as the ancient kind that stood as svmbol of
charity.
There is feeling among conservative
women that black and white is the choice
combination, but fancy runs riot, with the
dressmaker's guiding, in every color from ar
tilery red to black
Probably beige is the color preferred. r.
is neutral, negative and therefore refuses to
clash with variety of gowns. It is somo-
times embroidered in blue or pink WOOL it
is lined with Chinese blue or rose pink: If is
fastened with knitted rosettes or with o,d
brass buttons.
Bright red in serge, gabardine or woollen
Jersey is offered for the country, and let us
nope that no one attempts it for the city.
Dark blue III satin, jersey. serge and pabar-
dine is the color that the majority of women
accept. They are afraid of anything else.
IT they wish fanciful touch and they Weld
to color they will let the dressmaker put in
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
The Csrecian Bodice
Urged by Jenny

The collection Of Jenny in Paris was un-
usually lovely this season, and the American
women are getting the benefit of it through
the original models shown in every large city
IN the country and the hundreds of COPIES
that have been put into existence since the
middle of March.
Among the things that Jenny instituted
was the Grecian bodice. You can see it in
the sketch given to-day, which was made from
one of her most successful gowns.
The material used is champagne colored
satin, with panel of fish net hanging over
the skirt, front and back. The blouse is quite
severe, seemingly shapeess and held into
some degree of severity by two bands Of the
material that cross the figure back and front.
Inc ends are lnvisibly tucked away The
sleeves are short, mere caps over the ton of
the arms, and the Americans are told that
this kind of sleeve prevails for afternoon
gowns in all the French clothes
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
The Sailor Hat
Must Be Worn

Here and there, in the circles where clotb.,
are important, talk drifts about the incom;r.
of the straight sailor hat.
No one disputes the fact that it is her. !,
high fashion. Dsputation only occurs whom
the question arises as to it's beauty. Aftertb.
picturesque hats of the last decade, the br;m.
that droop and flare with the irregularitv th,
sets off features that are regular or otherwise
the severity of the straight, harsh sailor brim
is not liked.
There is no doubt that the milliners want
to sell this hat with the straight brim, for The,
offer it to every one who comes into the shon
They proclaim it the new thing, which is a
telling phrase that upsets even the sturdiest
mind bent upon getting something becoming
and desirable, whether or not it is marked
with the tag of the latest fashion.
After trip through the salons of man,
mllllners one begins to feel that the hat with
the dipping brim, the irregular line and the
becoming shadow over the face is triAe out
Of the picture.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14

Working i'm HARMONY

an old gold lining, which also harno..
with nearly everything that can h. h1Nss
against it. "''a
There are dark blue satin canes g.. :.
afternoon and three-tiered ones for tho VIZ 'as
ing, of dark blue gabardine embro;do.as
Chinese blue flowers done in worsted thsa., ~
and also in stripes of gold colored chas;u ssaus
run over the shoulders or forming ssa'u .."s
patch at each hip, or military ornsrsS.''
frog down the middle of the back he,o,. ha,a' :"
waist 'ne
There are capes that have collars u,,
are merely long ends to wrap twice a,.aAa ~sa
the neck and throw over the shoulder. we;ss. IL'
ed to stay where they are thrown.
The sketch shows cape made hv g..
gette, of Paris. 1t is of black satin w;.s
deep Victorian cape that makes woke Il:
lined with white satin and heavily fr,s.,
with black and white chenille. The co,sa
ties with two streamers of black and sa:.
satin, also weighted with fringe.
The garment may be pulled up clo,.,.
against the neck as protection from u,
night air, or loosened back we'll over ~.
shoulders to form background for .,;,,,s
cut, unornamental frock of white cren. !.
chine.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
Tafeta Softens the
Stiff Sailor Shape

To disguise the severity of these new sailor
hats the milliners use taffeta, which in itself
is not softening material, but far better than
plated straw Over the taffeta they put
splashes of embroidery, sometimes in color in
order to enliven the effect
The sailor which the Maison Lewis of Paris
has sent over to America and which has been
accepted by the milliners as a leading hat is
shown in this sketch.
1t IS built of biscuit-coIored taffeta, heavily
embroidered in bold design of biscuit silk
The brim is faced with black straw as
measure of protection to the eyes, for biscuit
color is not kind when placed directly against
the skin. At the base of the crown there isa
ribbon of taffeta tied in fiat bow at the back
and just here the milliner takes all manner Of
liberties in order that she may make this hat
more beguiling.
For instance, she substitutes Copenhagen
blue ribbon for the biscuit color, she puts
splash of artillery red, or she uses dull gold
edged with black.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
American Designs Preferred
For the First Time

One is immensely proud Of American
clothes this spring. Our designers have had
the courage to show them in connection with
the French gowns, and it is easily proved that
IN several important houses the American
woman chooses her entire spring wardrobe
from American designs rather than French
ones.
One of the reasons for this is that Paris
mas not laid unusual stress upon the tailored
costume, and the American woman has re-
vertcd to it. She wants to appear in simple
but distinguished costume when she is in the
street. The American tailoring is the best in
the world and the American designer con-
trives to get the best effect out Of tailored
material, whether he is making a frock or a
coat suit.
France does not care for such clothes: her
women wear them only under protest and
there is always sagh piece Of embroid
cry or an unusual addition Of lingerie or q
bizarre splash of something that changes the
mannish severity Of the American national
costume into something with coquctry that
nelts into the personality Of the French
women.
Seeing their opportunity and grasping it
~ they have never done before the American
tailoring establishments have worked wonders
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
French Clothes Encourage
Economical Remodelling


There is strong note of economy struck
in these new French clothes, which is heard
by the woman who is hiring a seamstress to
build up her spring wardrobe at home 1t
shows the way to alter old gowns into new
ones. The majority of women own evening
frocks that have good foundations, the skirts
trifle too full, it is true, but otherwise ready
to serve as the beginning of new frock.
The alteration in the skirt is simple one. It
consists of Strengthening out all the seams.
SO that there is no flare from the hips down.
This trick is going on in all the sewing
rooms OF the Continent, for the straight skirt
is SO we'll established that even the casual
woman has observed that she is entirely out
OF the picture in any garment that has narinp
seams.
After the satin or silk evening foundation
is adapted to the modern silhouette. tho
woman who is bent alteration and economv
may drop over it chemise tunic of chiffon
or jettcd material, or she may take good parts
Of ornamental drapery from other gowns and
make them into tunic
1T neither of these tricks is possible. she
may buy wide, ornamental ribbon. or do
as one woman did-cut strips from old bits
of brocaded curtains that have served their
day and, mounting them on tulle, accomplish
a tunlc that has real distinction
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
Organdy Used Lavishly
For All Occasions

The simple evening gown upon which the
American woman has set her heart need not
DC fashioned of any of these sumptuous ma
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
The Spring Tailored Costume
Is Slim and Trim

1ne American woman is given q chance to
look extremely smart in her American made
cloth costume, if she has the ability to live
up to the part assigned her by the designers
Those who do not care to give single
extra moment to their dressing heaved sigh
of relief when they realized that the STRAIGHT
cloth skirt and simple jacket would be con-
sdered exceedingly smart for the ten working
hours of the day. But I think the sigh of
relief was premature The woman who wants
to tumble into a comfortable skirt and sp
on loose jacket with white shrtwaist will
not have her wish gratifed this season if she
expects to remain in the fashion,.
Skirts are not especially comfortable for
the careless women, because they must be
sllmly cut and narrow at the hem, and thew
are really intended for slim women. Jackets
are not loose, and they cannot be carelesslv
adjusted. They have narrow shoulders. tight
armholes, long sleeves, slim underarm lines
and they need to be adjusted over a figure
that is properly dressed.
1T is said that all the corsets and lingerie
had to be changed to correspond with the new
costumes, and one can we'll believe it, If
ones outer garment is to be cut after the sill
houette of Il pencil there can be no comfort
to the wearer, unless the corset and the lin
gerle are correspondingly cut. There must
be no gathers at the hips, no rough lines at
the waist, no fulness across the bust, no
bungng at the armholes Unless one learns
that lesson and learns it thoroughly. she NAV
as we'll pass by the new American and French
clothes and wear the loose, full ones of a
year ago.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
Increase of Domestic
Designing

The one outstanding episode in the inter-
esting and important movement of spring
clothes is the immense stride in designing that
America has taken
All that has gone before was experimental
but this spring the clothes are good. They
make no pretension of changing the silhouette
as laid down by the Paris designers; the only
drastic revolution in silhouette which has been
attempted by this country took place last
summer, when the narrow skirt, which pulled
upward from the knees to the back and
finished with hustle effect at the end of the
spine, was thrown into the arena of clothes
1t not only won out, although it was the work
Of one designer, but it comedies entirely with
the clothes that Paris sent over last month.
This season the two countries go hand in
hand. The silhouette is the same-narrow.
with floating draperies. Take that one cond
tion as the foundation stone and then build
up as you please is the slogan given to every
woman.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
CHAMPA CINE . COLORED
SATIN GOWN BY JENNY
Gathered panels of fish net
front and back, and Greek
bodice.

be accepted by the American woman for the
street. She will cling to her newly revived
tailored frock or suit, and she will keep that
French thing for the afternoon or evening.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
A First Empire Fashion of Wearing
Several Garments at One Time

1t has always been said that when the
Chinese are cold they merely add another gar
ment. They do not attempt to have single
costumes which suit the weather
This ancient and honorable custom has pre-
vailed in Paris for two years, and it had its
thousands of followers in this country during
the extreme winter that began early and enda
late.
France took this lesson from the East ths
winter before last, when she was confrontse
with the same severity Of climate and lack o.
coal that put the Americans into such state
OF refrigeration last January She added ~
coat to gown, a top coat to suit, furs to aa
session that could keep her warm, she put that
on This is what the women of France dld "
Keep themselves alive through weather Ins'
they had never before experienced.
Now that the spring has come and waEnIs az.
change the fabrics.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
An Economy Gown

Take, for example, new gown by Jenns Iay
winch has received much commentator IN W. ~
country. She has taken black satin and ms.s I''S
&, slim slip of it that fits the figure fIos c.s
shoulders to shoetops The bodice is SUPPLE,
the glrdle is at the wastline, as Jenny hSes 81.
put caters to public opinion by having q 2 sS H.
ond streamer that drops to the hips ana W, ~,
IN front. She has embroidered the suIpnss, M .
plouse with heavy Chinese gold. So la.,
good. The gown has short sleeves and csn
worn at any restaurant or private dinner. /.
but Jenny does not stop here. she suu; : ,,s
iong, loose coat also of black satin lineo WI. W..
Chinese blue crepe. She turns this crepe IN Il,
"ard IN straight rever that goes arounu. n',.s -
neck and down to the hem. She also p"a pua;' ..
proad cut of this Chinese blue at the e ens .oa,
her mandarin sleeves. She ornaments tne MS Ms
WIN heavy gold embroidery done in an han; HAND
llc way, bit on the sleeve and VIDE D''
around m, the figure under the arms. :. ,rorr
me entire costume is supposed to .,s.roor DC
a! :. the same time 1t serves fcr the ai'etry trou.
II the coat is drawn closely together IN ast ~ t
ana u serves for the evening II the sssste
dropped over the back of the chair az .a, a.r Il
or restaurant, or left in the dressing row
private house. -.
Inns gown is one of those insplr = sa3N
economy that the dressmakers on oo% 10
OF the Atlantic Ocean have worked ous - ~ n
success. To the artistic designer, as WV ~
lne artistlc woman, economy and ugnns~
not oe companions,
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
Building Up the Wardrobe
In the Home


If this war had kept women at home and
not out doing the worlds work, there is no
doubt that the shops and dressmakers would
have had a bad time of it. The entire process
of building up wardrobe would be accom-
plished in the sewing rooms of private houses
Women would be saving money, making their
own clothes, dismissing servants and econo-
mizing in every possible way in the household
by working in the century old method that
has been carved out for them since time
began
But there is very little of this attitude
toward the household on the part of women
to-day. The work for the war is done out
side of ones own door knob. 1t may be whis-
pered that hundreds of houses are being left
to care for themselves, because women's SER
vices are needed in the cooperative work,
done in mass, for the Red Cross and it's va
rious subsidiary branches.
Therefore, the modern movement is toward
an elimination of the house as the centre of
service and economical endeavor. Women
spend money in order to be relieved of the
hours of service which in other days may have
been given to household drudgery: thew
want their time for larger work.
However, there are women who have
neither the vitality nor the trend of mind to
give themselves to cooperation work all day.
and they are directing the seamstresses in
the spring sewing; and all those gowns which
used to be bought are now being turned out
from machine placed by sunny window.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14

out OF ten persons will turn to look at this
frock.
No woman objects to this, does she?
To-day We Follow
The Army
France is doing the same thing to-day that
she did during the Drectoire, in taking her
fashions from the campaigns Of the army in
those antique lands.
The British march through Palestine has
brought back the Syrian turban and the float
ing wells and neck coverings of colored tulle
also draped skirts, low girdes and embroid-
cred transparent tunics
The French army in Salonca has been the
inspiration for Grecian drapery - short
sleeves, Grecian bodices and the corsetless
figure
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14
French and American Designer
MAN who likes statistics has given out

A MAN who likes statistics has given out
~ a statement that more spools of
thread have been sold since America
went into war than ever before in it's history.
This is taken to indicate that there is an
important revival of home dressmaking 1t
is difficult to prove this condition of affairs,
but the spools of thread are good enough evil
dence that the women on this continent are
employing seamstresses to make new gowns
for them or to alter old ones. And they are
also doing their own sewing.
On the other hand, the shops insist that
the sale of ready-to-wear garments has been
immensely stimulated by the war. Women
who are giving their time to war relief work
are willing and anxious to get costumes with
the least possible expenditure of vitality to
themselves, and this can be achieved through
the ready y-to-wear departments.
Those who keep shops also claim that
women of small means are buying better ma
terials and paying more for their clothes than
they have ever done in the history of Ameri-
can commerce in apparel.
Those who think out the situation say that
this is due to the employment of thousands
of women in new ways. Instead of these
women purchasing cheap, tawdry things they
add ten or fifteen dollars to the price of cos
tune and buy a gown that gives steady SER
vice.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-14

They have kept to the governments request
for the elimination Of wool as far as possible
and they have achieved costumes that are
eminently fitting and distinguished on the
American figure and for the personality of
the American woman. More power to them
Cheyenne record., 1918-05-09
To the Boys Working Re-
serve of Cheyenne County.

Now that the vacation period
approaches. boys, tits your duty
as American citizens to help feed
your BIG brother in France, and
l want to help you do it. Even
though you are working on your
fathers farm you are entitled to
enroll, whether l get you a job
or you get it yourself. Every
boy should be proud of the Re-
serve Button be wears on the la
pei Of his coat. The government
wants to recognize every boy in
the u. S. and give him credit for
doing his part in winning this
great war. Now boys do not let
it be said in Cheyenne county
that the farmers cannot harvest
their crops on account of help.
Do your Bit C. H. Norman,
County Director U. S. Working
Reserve.
Cheyenne record., 1918-05-09
Th. Youths Companion Calen
dar for 1918

The Youths Companion Practical
Home Calendar combines the beauti-
with the useful. 1t is especially sought
for by busy people, because it gives at
one glance not only the days OF the
current month, but those of the month
preceding and the month following,
all on the one leaf At the same time
the calendar is decorati re in design
and suitable for place in the best
room in the. house. 1t is given to all
readers of the Youths Companion who
have paid their subscriptions fcr 1918.
Cheyenne record., 1918-05-09
They are Sure Coming

Hugo Bros. Show is coming.
This Gil Gus comes we'll spoken of
by the press in cities visited and
is known as the worlds newest,
hest and most progressive tented
exhibition. None but the highest
priced and best p performer known
to the world are employed which
guarantees to its patrons the very
best exhibition the amusement
loving public ever had presented
to is notice. Endorsed by TIE
press and pulpit alike as a high
class refined and moral as well
as educational exhibition A grand
street review will take place at
l O'Clock on the main street, also
a free exhibition takes place on
the show grounds Immediately
after performances start. at two
and 8 p. m. One day only at
Cheyenne Wells. Friday May 10
(ad)
Cheyenne record., 1918-05-09
Miscellaneous Shower

After their meeting Monday
evening about twenty-six of the
members of the Rebekah Lodge
sprung a surprise in the way of a
miscellaneous shower, on one of
their members. Mrs. ]. A. Par
ham, a bride of two weeks. Ma
ny useful gifts were presented
such as, towels, laundry, clothes,
pins, silverware small kitchen
utensils, etc. Nothing bungle-
some, everything just right for a
Soldiers wife.
Cheyenne record., 1918-05-09
Difficult cases Solicited
Bring Your School Children

A large proportion of headaches,
hysteria, insomnia, chorea (St. Vitus
Dance) nervous prostration hallucina-
tion, stomach troubles and other ply
sical maladies, when OF nervous ma
ture, are caused by eye strain. The
removal of the cause effects perma-
nent cure.
PHYSICIANS ESPECIALLY ARE
INVITED to call and investigate his
method of correcting errors of refrac-
tion.
DR.. Sapero has been practicing in
Colorado for many years and
is licensed to practice by the State
Board of Medical Examiners of Col
orado and other states.
DR.. Sapero has been making regular
visits to Cheyenne Wells for over 20
years.
REFERENCES furnished from some of
the leading citizens of Cheyenne Wells
and vicinity. now under treatment.
REMEMBER DR.. Sapero does not ex-
pertinent. He cures where others fail.
Over Is years practical experience.
THOUSANDS of testimonials from
grateful patients whom he has cured
furnished on demand.
If you desire to consult the doctor,
please make appointments early.
Remember the date Thursday May 9th
ONE DAY ONLY
Commercial Hotel, Cheyenne Wells,
Colorado.