Bisbee daily review., 1918-09-01
The Art
 Of Dress

Toques of plumage. blue, beige. white or black and white are being shown this winter. This plumage is not the flat short feathered variety, but a more fluffy sort-the feathers being at least an inch and half long. Hats of tulle are worn, also broad picturesque shapes with flat brims and moderately square crowns made of several thicKnesses Of tule. Occas- ionally as in a Marie-Louise model of maron tulle wreathed about with a spray of exquisite pink roses, the crown is made tailed than any tulle crown should be. and then crushed down to the modish height.
 Hats of velvet appeared very early this season. Very smart is one in the form of sort of glorified beret of mauve, blue. black or dull rose vel vet, which fits the head rather close ly and is adorned with butterfly bow in velvet posed low over the right ear Often this bow is of some contrasting color. particularly if the hat is black velvet. when the bow may be beige, dull blue, yellow or rose. Rather larger is a new beret made entirely of grosgraiR ribon, knitted or crochet ed. In mauve, rose and yellow this hat is dainty and small, particularly above a froek of some light color. One may run a motor at reckless speed, when wearing a lose tricot turban that wind cannot budge. Of the same fabric is a scarf with it's ends tucked under the belt.
 Crown your September hat with black satin and brim it with a plum age of tetesle negre and you will be quite snlnrts Tie satin sailor be- speaks the approach of autumn by t1e brownness of its hue. A brown ribbon crossed about the crown and then ties under the chin with a small and perky bow. chic hat whose ostrich cha peau is decorated with large rosette of real valenciennes, dyed the color of butter.
 Seal brown. velvet topped with sweep of owls feathers forms a smart little hat A little flat affair trimmed with a long pheasant feather placed at a most daring angle. A hat of dull ! toned striped silk, with cut steel beads { outlining the stripes is good.
 wen Dressed Man
 A suit of flannel or of light tropical 1 worsted with double breasted jacket . which fellows the outlines of the fig | ure. It is buttoned with soft roll and 1 has but three pockets. two at the sides, I with flap and breast pocket without I The trousers fit well down over the I shoes, without any cuffs and the shoes | themselves are of stout brown leather and laced with a single lace.
 If the contrasts between the good | and the bad in clothes are apparent I in the daylight they are even aceentu- ated by the night lights. At first it seems a little strange that this should be so. because the lack of color in ev- ening makes it impossible to use the garish combinations which the man lacking in taste finds so ready to his hand in the daytime. But as a matter of fact this Is more than cOunterbal anced by the requirements of evening clothes which make each eXageration superfluity particularly conspicuous.
 The waistcdat for evening iwear must be simple, both in design and material. One to be worn with even- ing dress is either of white piquet or dull with silk entirely without deco ration in the way of flowers or con yentional design. In its lines it will not be exaggerated, the points will not be too long or the V at the bot tom too flaring or too pronounced. Waistcoat and coat will not protrude in an ugly white line below the latter Much the same distinction applies to the waistcOat for use with a dinner coat. A quiet and suitable costume for evening wear at this time of year consists of a simple dinner coat, with one or two buttons and a shawl collar; the jacket hanging easily; a black bow tie; a comfortable and conserva- tive wing collar, and a straw hat goes to make up the apparel of a well groOmed man.
 Some exceedingly bad neckties are chosen for wear Why such material should ever be made into neckwear is difficult to understand, except on the warlike theory of camouflage which IS based on the plan of making every | thing look like what it is not By an extention of the theory a buffalo robe would make a very nice bathing suit. or blazer would make a good coat for an afternoon wedding. The man that wears neckties of this gay and pecu- liar type has evidently forgotten the truth that civilization reverses nature when evolution reaches the stage of man. The peacock is far more re- splendant than his sober mate.