Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
yes for May Differ From Those Brought Out Early i'm the Season

rangement which It 10 we'll to ABSORB
into the mind is that the blouse with
| the italian decolletage Is tho ness 70
| wear under all coats. 1t Is wiser TO avoio
This Italian neck line may be round or
straight across the shoulders or brougne
to the base of the neck. The wearef
| must decide on that. Her features
lack Of curve which Is employed:
Another interesting detail Of fashion
| Is the definite tendency toward z deep
decollete for day usage The neck = III, nn .
be on the American colonial modei;
which brings the material high ano
tight against the back and side OF tne
neck and then dips It down to = deep
The Introduction Of the high collar
seems to have como about tnfou9h
necessity rather than choice or inclfna-
| ton. True, there are smart women VINO
insist that their one-piece frocks shall
have these outstanding, hower-ike coll
| lars that rise on the stem OF the neck
and open out wide to enve!op the cnln
and the back Of the head. but the ma
/ jority of women have adopted high col.
! lars only with coat suits. They don't
know any other kinds of collar to ad-
| Just with a jacket that Is high In the
| neck and has rolling reyers.
They find that the'wash blouse. which
/ has a high turnover collar. and is worn
with a crayat of black or colored picot
| ribbon, gives just the right silhouette
| to the neck line of an everyday coat
suit. II this high collar cannot be
adopted, then a low one must be worn
| with the SUIT because of its collarless
condition.
| women's tailors are out Of employment
than any other class of people Their
| leaders are pleading with the govern
| ment to give them uniforms to do TO
| of dressmaking houses have decided to
take these men on to make skirts of
| one-piece cloth frocks in order to keep
/ them busy.
| dents of labor conditions say. to, the
aversion of the. average woman to a
tailored suit, because France, who is
| minus tailors. has placed the decree for
The lessened number Of chiffon blouses
! shown this summer IL indicative OF the
! lessened number OF tailored suits worn.
SO the workers claim; It Is true that the
! which are always in demand for many
. reasons. However. there Is large seq
!, ment Of Anglo-Saxon women who Will
not forsake the coat and skirt. and they
!, SONS in order to give men work. then
| for personal reasons. It is our uniform,
| and we know how to wear It. We are
not nearly so sure Of the one-piecs
! sewed coat and skirt. 1t is futile, there
fore, to speak of its abolition while this
strong feeling Of approval exists for 1t
in, this country as In England. And be-
| women to realize that the buttonless
jacket. or the surplice kind. Is the one
preferred.
| hxy IN q
and not permitting Of removal. It re-
| mains on the shoulders as long as the
skirt remains on tho hips, and the two
! are taken of together: $1,000. :.
for the sake of cleanliness. but the
chemisette, with its shields In the three
| inch sleeves. is the preferred undergar-
cheaper than white shirt waists. bui
they are well beloved by women today
They will in the space that is left open
| by a surplice jacket, with due con-
sideration for taste. cleanliness and
The surpncs Jacket does not leave
much space to be filled in, and that IL
its charm to the women who do not care
to go to the expense OF half a dozen
| shirt waists in the laundry each week
1t fits closely to the neck line at back
and sides. crosses at the bust, and either
the waist with loop Of braid, or goes
around to the back in long ends which
| tie loosely.
One might deduct. in looking at these
| surplice jackets, chemise robes, slip
over-the-head tunics and Cabot mummy
gowns that 1t is buttonless era. We
are to be tied into our clothes from now
on. In truth. those startling Callot
> frocks for afternoon and evening
which strike the only really new note
| since 1915, give ono q quick memory
| Of the ludicrous costumes Of those who
took part in picnic days, hopping along
| in coffee sacks tied at the feet through
a lane of cheering. excited pleasure
| seekers.