The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-29
Freak Draperes and Flouncings Conspicuous by Their
Absence, Plain Broadcloth Proving Most Useful
Waistcoats and Little Capes Popuar-Con.
binatons of Cloths Economical

This Is n concession also to the wool
conservation idea, as heretofore we
had used lntcrHnlng OF lambs wool or
heavy woollen quilting, now given over
TO the army's needs.
These velvet Innings are delightfully."-
warm. sumptuous and usually be-
coming. Generally they give q con-
trasting note of color, such as here
tofore we found In gay. bright silks
and satins. a black velvet suit pre-
'cnts lining of Belgian blue velvet,
which is distinguished and pleasing.
The outside OF this suit has collar
rich brown seal. its lines are Sc
verely tailored and the whole costume
offers the last degree OF elegance nnd
comfort at the same time.
Little Capes stilI Hero.
The little capes we welcomed in the
spring will not leave us as the winter
season comes. We find shoulder rip
ples--one can hardly call them more
in several models destined to b
popular with those who like to add
their own f,irs. Again these little
capes are bordered with n narrow fur
band, one row above the other.
Just as men have accepted tho
sack suit as sort of business uni
form. women are coming more and
more to adopt the Norfolk Jacket,
with its severe lines, inverted pleat
at tho back and straight around belt
as the preferred business or office
suit. The Norfolk suits are not be-
coming to every figure. though there
can be no question as to their yabso-
Lutte utility and smartness. They are
generally made of the finest quality
Of imported tweed. rs carefully cut
and tailored ms are mems clothes, ana
suggest efficiency and service at once.
or course only the most strictly
tailored blouses can be worn with
these severe. unadorned suits.
If one prefers a more elaborate ana
ornate suit than I have hero de-
scribed, those with the vests and en-
broideries OF wool Angora will doubt
less answer. Braid too plays its part
as trimming, and is employed In
many novel ways. However elaborate
the trimming may be, 1t must be
borne in mind that the lines should
be plain and severe.
Skirts are quite as narrow as grace
will permit. and even narrower. As
rule the excessively narrow skirts
come from abroad and prove that
wool conservation Is q serious neces-
sity over there. American makers,
foreseeing this wool shortage, pre-.
pared for II last season by plentifully
stocking their factories. 1t Is there
fore not so apparent at this time az
II is to be later.
Many Materials Combined.
They have also helped out tremen-
dously by .cleverly combining satin,
velvet. fur and material such as tri-
colette. silk jersey and the Ike Moth
ing Is prettier than one of the fur
trimmed tricolette suits. II Is per-
mitted to make the skirt OF COM
.bination Of tricollette and wool velours
and the coat OF the same combination,
with the addition Of great deal OF
fur. So lavishly has fur been used on
trcolette that now and then II makes
the bottom OF the skirt entirely.
OF course the skins with a soft sur
face. such as seal. nutria. beaver and
mole, are used in this way. We hear
much talk OF the uses OF monkey skin,
which bears a close re 'emblance to
fringe with its long dropping hair. II
appears to excellent advantage on
black satin suit with a narrow skirt
and a box coat
The hem Of this skirt has been
turned back to form a cuff and mar
row strip of the monkey fur falls over
that, but does not reach quite to the
edge of the skirt, 4 strip also trims
the bottom OF the coat and makes tho
close fitting collar and cuffs on the
long and very tight sleeves.