davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
Some Harbingers of Spring

EoR sport clothes, clothes that are really
to be worn for violent exercise. that s
and not by mere spectators of the stre,-
uosity of other people, the pepum blouse will
hold its own and bit over
One popular model is the sort of parnen+
that golfer or a tennis player might include
~ her professional wardrobe It is of tan ;er-
sey-every other garment is of Jersey. Won
hno"-and 1t is embroidered in peasant color
ing OF red and black, and worn with 2 small
olack tie and a patent leather belt. It has
slight tracery on the smock collar and around
the hem edge
Like many of the clothes of TO-DAY. Il mills
on over the head. No fear of accidents To
BODY and skirt when you are frocked like this
heachlng after the high ones cannot make Won
uhs'ghtly and cannot disarrange your hejted
arrangements, once the vital point in
woman S clothes communications with -
~, IKE this she can protect herself from
'''I p "erc ':S encroachments of untidiness
a.. nut, IKE SO many other practical fashions.
tnls blouse is only for those of slender pro-
por1lons around the hips. peplum, gath
e1ed ana fuli below the waistline, makes a
stoe ~ woman look like hogshead, and should
DC Tor her anathema maranatha
In many of the spring models waistcoats ara
p;a"'eu as an integral part of suitcoats. Even
ple enVeloplng motorcoats have them. The
"''s'eoat blouse which was popular about three
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

years ago is seen again; and the separate vests
name is simply legion. Last year sweaters
and hats were designed to be worn together
tor outing occasions, both Of some brilliant
color scheme. which made a veranda full of
smart women at a country club look like a
flower bed. This year the idea seems to be to
have vest and hat of vivid coloring.
One set IS made of boldly checked jersey
CLOTH IN green and white. All the edges OF
both hat and vest are bound with bright green
cloth. The vest is very straight and loosely
belted, and the effect is excellent.
Whole costumes of knitted material have
been popular for small Children out it is d new
departure to offer them for grown-ups. One
has rather short sweater top, ribbed to hit
snug around the waist and going on over tho
head. The rolled collar, of white, ties with
knitted cord ending in knitted balls Of green.
The skirt has bands of green on a white
worsted foundation. Of course, such skirt
must be narrow. 1t would be horror of sag
glng lines after few times of wearing if 1t
were full. But it must be nice problem IN
kn1ttlng to adjust it to the figure SO that "
snail not curve in in all the wrong places.
Our skirts are again scanty and straight
put so Tar they disguise rather than reveal the
lines of the figure. When narrow skirts were
IN before, careless cutting and inexpert drap-
ing often had results which were unfortunate.
to say the least A skirt of knitted wool might
easily repeat these indiscretions; unless
woman has graduated in the mysteries oil
knitting and purling she had better not try to
solve one for herself
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

y
bright But who can add that tbero
IS any novelty in that? Could anvtb;no
De more intense than the coors h.,,o
been for the last two or three seasonsq Cou
'a'hiy they are marked contrast to the co,orc
worn some decades ago, when it was repardcd
as indicative of either color blindness or bar.
oarlc taste to indulge in anything more than
touch OF brilliant purple, scarlet. yerdant
green or much less bright yellow.
We still regard these colors AK ;nd;c.+;,o =,
primitive taste, but, of course. the idea nov, ;s
that one isn't thoroughly modern without bcino
primitive.
True the colors of the next season arc co-
ing to be bright, but that is not the d;st;nc.
ton. The distinctive thing about the color
tendency at present is the change that bo.
come about in the general feeling of the e.
ness OF certain sorts of color Once we had
our evening shades our afternoon shades
shades that were suitable for lingerie shades
That a debutante might wear and shades that
she might not. Now the idea seems to be to
break down all these barriers and to wear
what might have been street shades in the
evening If we choose and evening coors when
and where we wish Most shocking of all-if
you wish to be shocked--is the attitude we
take toward suitable shades for lingerie Light
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
Shoes Are the Only
Standardized Wearables

In the belligerent countries, which, after ALL
are our best and only really practical guides
IN this matter. attempts of the kind have been
limited so far to control in France of tho
manufacture of Shoes
The government in order it is said. to secure
enough leather for the shoeing of a nation
TOOK over their manufacture, set standard pat
terms Tor men, women and children, which were
10 contain leather of stated quality, in stated
quantity and which sold at prices rano;nu
IRON somewhere about So for men to some
thing like 81 or $3.50 for children. Other va.
rletles OF shoes continue, however, to be made
so'o ana worn, but this parental regulation
guaranteed a real leather wel!-made shoe of
sooa wearing quality, at a reasonable price to
those who chose to buy it,
so far us other branches of women's dress
arc concerned, the consensus of opinion in all
countries seems to be: Glands off," The in
dustry reminds one of those insdous grasses
winch, once planted in a certain soil Greens
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

Tan Jersey embroidered in rcd and black
There is black tie, also patent leather belt
everywhere under the ground, mngling with
every other plant that grows, twning it's ten
drills about their roots, so that to uproot it
means to kill the thing it cings to as well.
Not that the spread of this industry has had
deleterous effect upon others existing along
side OF it; the contrary is the truth. But their
lnterdependcnce is SO complicated and so cum
nlngIy entwined that the effect of brusquey
checking the growth of the one is problem
before which the best brains in the country NAV
we'll pause before they begin to experiment
with their theories.
Government interference in the CLOTHING Of
people Is not new. We read of sumptuary laws
all through the Middle Ages and of the detianrc
OF them by the wives and daughtcrs Of the
burghers, who could not prevent their women
1olk from adopting materials, furs and velvcts
reserved by royal decree for the aristocracv
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
HAT AND VEST OF BOIDIY
CHECKED JERSEY CLOTH
l" green and white The vest is loosely belt.
Cd and all the edges of both hat and vest are
bound with bright green cloth.

'As soo'l as fifteenth century merchant of
r'orehce' for example, began to make money
ne began also to desire that his wife should
ofess inc part to which his prosperity entitled
"e'' Inc instinct OF mcr to bedizcn their
women is as old as the human race. ~.~
Adam undoubtedly delvcd the harder that
Eve might have more time to put fringe of
stems on her iigleaf apron, and when she wore
1T he felt that he getting on in the world.
and that the neighbors (for there must have
been some outside of Eden) recognized it and
cnved him his fortune
Inc aristocracy of Florence would notice the
1ul-hned sleeves of the merchants wife and
one OF them-probably very wellborn and
hard-favored ady-woud be sure to comn)a;n
TO her husband, who then, if he valued his
peace would bring the matter to the attention
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
American Docility
Under War Restrictions

:; II our government should make any such de-
cree cree IN our day, we should probably see very
little opposition to it. The country seems -
oe IN CONDITION Of amazing docility Who
~ou'u nave oelleved that few short months
"ooid see food administration with arbitrary
powers government management of railroads
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

ana 'ne steady and swift approach of prohi-
bition?
-. lake 'he very question of woman's apparel
nc limitation OF yardage was a voluntary
measure adopted by all concerned before the
government had made one move toward the
industry. 1t was beau gcste, as the French
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
CHECKS - THAT'S
FOR SPORT

Coat of blue jersey
cloth, with blue and white
checked trimming of COL
lar and cuffs, and a skirt to
match them. There is .
white linen vest.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
Many Patterns Means
Senseless Waste

One of the speakers at that meeting drew at
tentlon to the fact that, though there was not
a man in the room who was wearing what
might be called conspicuous or Individual
style of cloth in his clothes, yet there were, in
all probability, not two suits in the room OF
exactly the same pattern. Among twenty men
III blue serge each will have a suit made from
a different weave and dye. This is a waste Of
effort and material which might be remedied.
and suggestions for limiting patterns of con-
servative materials for mems wear were made
IN the interest of wartime economy.
The same ideas have been applied to the
manufacture of stuffs for mems shirts, and
even to their shoes and neckties. Results Of
impressive benefit to the community at large.
10 our allies and to our own fighting men are
promised If these reforms are carried into fact.
SO far no such proposition has been y1adc
with regard to the industries which deal with
the dressing of women. In fact, the pressure
of opinion has been very definitely against
Standardization of feminine attire in any form.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

(NTANDARD1ZAT1O OF mems dress has
- already become more than mere tenta-
tive suggestion. New York papers car
RED the story of suggested regulations in mems
attire on the front page a few weeks ago. alone
with the war news, the coal shortage in New
York. the 13-below-zero temperature and other
striking happenings of day and generation
IN which exciting events have become almost
commonplace.
The Importance of the further suggestions
emanating from the economy board was i'm
medatcly recognized, and with front page
space at premium, as it is to-day, the story
was deemed of sufficient moment to be given
place of honor.
There was nothing extremely radical in the
ideas advanced They included some of the
suggestions already made at the now historic
meeting of dressmakers manufacturers retail
ers, fashion writer's and editors and others
held at the Waldorf in November to discuss
the adoption of the slim silhouette with view
to limiting the consumption of wool
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
AN ORIENTAL EVENING

q; half'toiette of embroidered silk, with a
sleeveless coat, and sash placed high and tied
at the side
OF the authorities. Often the offending wife
would be brought to justice; quite as often sbo
would escape.
At any rate punishment of fines and imprjs-
onments never seemed to leave the nobility in
the enjoyment Of their privileges, for all his
tory and memoirs of the times are full of cases
of such rebellion.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
No Standardization

All Concerned With
Women's Apparel Are
Agreed That Nothing of
the Sort Should Be At
tempted at Present-The
New Mode Caters More
Than Ever to Individual
Tastes-No Radical
Changes in Sight Except
the Narrow Silhouette
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
Limitations a Spur
To Imagination

DressmaAers nave acknowledged ALREADY
that this suggestion of Imitation this diff
Guilty, has spurred their invention 1t is like
the rules of a game which are necessary to in
sure good contest.
Never has a study of ones individual tyne
been profitable than at present. There
are styles to suit all figures, all faces and all
incomes. If a woman likes Oriental effects.
turned under skirts, straight, armless coats
and sashes, she will find them, as she may in
the sketch shown to-day
If she prefers the Occidental, she may choose
the frock of gray silk. with an embroidered
cape and tunc of chiffon, and keep the SASH
weighing it with bright pink rose
She may fold length of brocade around her
and hang her arms and neck with strands of
jewels. She may swathc a satin frock in
clouds OF tulle; she may cut it plainly of crisp
taffeta. She will find Endorsement for anv
fancy among the products of the biggest names
in the world of dressmakers
Study Your type is more important so
gan than ever, for it cannot be said that any
definite clothes guidepost has been erected
for our guidance along any one definite road.
Rather there is a series of delightful paths
each one tending in the same general direction.
but each with cndearing characteristics of It's
own. They merely wind through the same sort
of country.
woman with any idea at all of what suits
her will surely prefer this to the single monot-
onous highway common to everybody These
variations shared By all phases Of dress.
They are just true of the new millinery
No sooner do we hear that small hats arc in
the majority than the news OF graceful droop-
ing brms breaks upon us.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
on To Be Applied to New Fashions

Americans Are Amaz.
ingly Docile Toward
Government Regulation.
but History Proves That
Sumptuary Laws Have
Never Yet Succeeded
Even in France Control
Is Limited to. Shoes
Women Now at Liberty n
Wear What Suits Them
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27

say, freely made by the leaders of the great
interests connected with womens clothes.
So, with that much settled, we pass to the
consideration of the sartoral outlook for
spring with quiet minds. 1t is an attractive
one, in which Individual good taste and good
judgment will have full play within the limits
of four and half yards Of material
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1918-01-27
NTIRE COSTUME OF KNITTED
MATERIAL.

The snug sweater top is in green, with skirt
to match in green and white. The white collar
ties with knitted cord ending in knitted ball.
of green.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
SNOW AND COLD
 WAVE SEND UP GRAIN
Oats Reach Highest Prices for SeasOn-PrOvisiOns Go
 Off on Hog Receipts

Chicago January 25.--rikelihood that prospective cold wave accom- panied by snow would delay improve ment in the crop movement had con- siderable to do with an advance in the price of corn The market closed unsettled II @ssc to 1sc higher March $1.265s and May $1.25@1.25M. Oats gained 1N@1Ac to 1ssc. Provisions underwent declines of 5c to 22c
 Except for a little weakness at the outset tho corn market showed a de- cided upward trend. Peace talk, to which the initial declin asHSS 7rs& which was speedily oftyef 8 a4 s constructions given to anstcn & s# exchange directors in ns1mg 80& to trade in January ueiis ~.y af8 i5t ordering that January settlements be effected at the maximum limit here- tofore allowed for futures, $1.2S bushel. Meanwhile predictions of se- were cold and snow began to take ef- feet and with complaints of car short age put the bears at disadvantage throughout the remainder of the day
 Oats mounted to the highest prices this season. Continued scantiness of receipts. together with persistent buy ing on the part of large houses, was largely responsible. Export sales to- taled 3O0.000 bushels. Huge receipts of hogs weakened provisions. Selling ascribed to eastern shipping difficult ties tended to make an important ral- ly impracticable
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
New York Futures
New Orleans Cotton

New Orleans, January 25.-Steadiness and an advancing tendency in the arly trading in cotton here today gave way to a soft feling and bear pres- sure, most severe in the afternoon. Last prices were the lowest of the day and showed net losses of 34 to 42 points. Selling was based mainly on the freight and fuel situation which many traders seemed to think would work for smaller takings by milfs and smaller consumption.
 On the opening the market was steady and sufficient buying orders were in hand to cause higher price levels. At a rise of 3 to IS points, offerings in- creased and prices commenced to re- spond to the selling. The market plain ly missed the sensational political ru- mors of yesterday and before the ses- sion was very old liquidation com menced to come from the long side.
 The lowest levels of the day followed posting of the weekly statistics, snow ing mill takings for the week of only 251. 900 bales of American cotton as against 366,0oo this week last year.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
COTTON TAXES b|G
 DROP YESTERDAY.
General List Goes Off for Decline of g to Az Points.
 Shorts Cover

New York, January 25.--An opening advance was followed by declining prices in the cotton market today. with March selling off from s1.oSc to to S0.39c and closing at 30.45c. The general list closed steady at net de- cline of 32 to 42 points.
 Covering by January shorts was the early feature. Notices estimated at about 5000 bales were reported in cir culation. but it was said they were being taken up by houses with Jap be more interest standing in the spot month than expected. Covering sent the price up to 31.S5c at the opening, or.s35 point snet higher. and the near months strength exerted in influence on later months which opened at an ad- vance of to q points. As soon as the more active demand for January had been supplied, the maret turned easier under renewal of Wall street western and local selling. The news encourage the hope of peace. and the selling movement was again accom- panied by claims that peace would prove a bearish influence on cotton There was covering on a scale down and some further trade buying, but bulges deemed to meet increased of ferings and the lowest prices of the day were reached in the late trading with May selling at o9,94c and July at 2960c The close was few points up from the lowest on covering. The local stock of certificated cotton showed decrease of 5000 bales overnight, and it was re- ported that Japanese interests were with drawing cotton for shipment
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
Pig Iron

terest in January deliveries caused the market to open high, when the advices from Europe were of such character as to create desire among outside holders of the later positions to liquidate their holdings. At first the local traders were good buyers. but the offerings finally proved too heavy for them and in the last two hours their selling carried the market down some 4o points from yes- terday. The speech of the German chan cellor proved to be almost flippant in discussing the speeches of President Wil- son and of Lloyd George, and gave the impression that Germany felt herself in condition of victory and able to dic- tate terms of peace. Naturally, this brought the fact of the continuance Of the war to the front and led to selling on the part of those who had bought on peace rumors
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26

and activity at the opening today, but the advance in tone met considerable realizing and was not fully maintained. First prices were ? to points higher, with May selling tip to 9.04c and Deeem- Der e,66c during, the early session, or about ' to 10 points above last nights closing figures. Reports that the neces- sity for securing nitrates from Chile and other commodities might restrict im- ports of coffee were circulated on the early advance, which also reflected the increasing hope of peace. There ap- peared to be no change in the general character of the news, but the clear ances reported from Brazil may have promoted the tendency to take profits under which May eased to s.s5c and De- ceInber to .951c during the afternoon. The close was up from the lowest on final spurt of buying with last prices net uii- changed to 4 points higher. January, S.5oc: March, s.7ec: May. 9.Olc; July, 9.22o. September. s41c; October s.47c; Decem- Der. 9.5Sc.
 Spot firmi Rios IS, Sc: Santos As, 11c No fresh offers were reported in the cost and freight market. The official cables showed TO change in the Brazil ian markets. Victoria reported a clear arce of 10000 bags and Santos of 54,000 bags for New York. Brazilian port re- eeipts, 6Iooo; Jundiahy, receipts. A,o0o.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
JOCKS AT LAST
 ST|FFEN AND HOLD
Peace Talk Predominated in Banking Circles-Profes-
 sionaIs Do Trading

New York. January 25.--Although opinions differed widely in banking circles as to the significance of the German chancellor's latest address, peace talk predominated in the finan- cial district today.
 Stocks were firm at the outset, be- coming stronger later on substantial advances in rails, including many low priced issues. Early dealings were lim- tied to comparatively few specialties, shippings, motors and minor equip- ments making extreme gains of l to 3 points.
 The strength of rails was generally attributed less to the tenor of foreign advices than to the publication of fur tner details showing the plan and scope Of the railroad legislation now before Congress.
 There was a more hopeful feeling regarding the political situation in Washington, sentiment being visibly heartened by developments which pointed to the furtherance of this country's war plans.
 In the foreign exchange market the only direct reflection of the many peace rumors were furnished by the ,stiffening of cable remittances to London, France, however, redctlHBs N The international war issues dealt in here were scarcely altered, except for the further strength of French mu- snicipal bonds.
 Dealings in stocks were again large ly professional, the short interest cov- ering it's commitments in United States Steel and other leaders before the close. In the main, final prices were at or near the days best. sE fnn hxr n new minimum in 31as at 97.94, first fours selling at or to 96.7S and sec- .ond As at 96.26 to 96.16. Total sales. par value, s4,125,000.
 United States bonds, old issues, were unchanged on call.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
Hester's Cotton Statement

Comparisons are to actual dates not to close of corresponding weeks:
 In sight fo week. 2s70o0 same seven days last year. 2s4.0O0; year before, 27o, oo: for the month, 1,07S,OO0: same date last year, 1,036,0O0; year before. 1,0s7, ,0o0; for season, S.501 GOO; same date last year, 10 07S,0c0; year before, S.713,00O
 Port receipts for season. 414s, GOO; same 4,859.00
 Overland to mills and Canada for sea- son, 9i1 600; same date last year. l,072, GOO year before. 75O.0C0
 Southern mill takings for season. 2.69S. : eco: same date last year, 2.7S2,9 600; year before. 2.z66,000
 Interior stocks in excess of August l. S3S, coo.
 Foreign exports for week. 5l.000; same seven days last year, 163.000: year before. 91.0O0; for season. 2.517.0o0; same date last year. S,614,000; same date year before. ...- 691, GOO.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26

-7  in
  mums consumers in two
  
  to o in
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
Bonds
Money Market

'. New York, January 25.-Mercantile paper. 5h @5A per cent; sterling. CO., day bills, 4.12; commercial, eO-dav bil1s on banks. 4.71M; commercial. so o.dav bills. 4.71A; demand. 5.75K; cables 4.76 7-16. Bar silver, S7ssc Time loans firm; so days, 90 days and six monthS 1% &S per cent. Call money firm: hirh
 per cent; low, 4 per cent: rui;ng rate, per cent; closed, 35 @4 per cent: last loan, per cent. Francs. demand. .5.72M; cables, 5.70A. Builders. de,
 mand, 431x; cables. 44N. Lires. dema,,d
 S.46; cables. 0.45. Rubles. demand. is.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-01-26
Liverpool Cotton

Liverpool, January 25.-Spot cotton in limited demand: prices steady. Good middling, 23.89d; middling. 23.36d; low middling, 22.S4d good ordinary, 21,S4d; sales, 5000. including 2700 American Receipts. 5000. all American. Futures closed quiet New contracts Jan uary, 23.65d; February, 2S.3Sd March. 2.99d April, 2272d; May. 22.46d. Old contracts, fixed Irices: January, 22.21d; 221d January February, 22.11d; March April 21.93d; May-June, 21.77d; June-July, 21.69d