The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-03

1 the American dressmakers to bring in such fabrics as are produced by our cotton mills.
 l have long advocated the use of l the gayly colored calicoes of the south which have been worn by the negroes for generations, and the use of the bandanna handkerchief for trimming. It is quite possible that the northern part of the country has never quite realized the beauty of the cheap fabrics that are turned out in bales by the southern mills. Calico has never come into it's own in this country, although Paul Poiret admired it more than any other na- tional fabrics that we offer. There is an effort being made to introduce it at the Florida resorts this spring and it may come about that we shall see it in a great variety of costumes late i'll the season.
 You remember how the checked eingham craze went over the conti- nent and how gowns of it were sold at s7.50 to $S5, depending on the label inside. Calico may be imported from the south to the north, cut by tailor who draws twice as large salary as college professor, and turned out by 2 house that will glori- fly the 5-cent material and receive for it as much as for double faced satin and Venetian point.
 The southerners make their cotton frocks at home, for they have skilled dT essmakers among the colored peo- pie, who have done this kind of work for generations and the word to the wise in these days of conservation is that calico and other 10 and 15-cent materials should be made up at home. There are plenty of patterns in this country, and good ones, too, and many seamstresses who are now delighted to get chance to come back into their own But until calico is settled fab ric for fashion, the others must be considered first.
 Jersey is rampant, and when made of artificial silk threads or of thin worsteds, it holds it's own in an amaz- ing manner The novelty jersey shows cream or oyster white background with a large and rather grotesque or nament woven into it or applied by means of small beads.
 Many of these gowns have been made. but few should be chosen. A white jersey frock which has enor- nous interlaced circles of black silk touched off with beads cannot en- nance the physical appearance of any woman. Matelasse, and the Rodier jersey with It's raised, stamped figure, also stand high in fashion.
 All the Chinese fabrics have been reinstated. Shantung in it's khaki color has again been found an ad- mirable material, especially when it's dullness Is enlivened by bit of Nat tier blue, deep scarlet and sometimes with a com bination of black and orange.
 Georgette crepe has a powerful po- sition. It has taken on a bit of kin ship to the embroidered jersey by having stamped circles or interlaced rings dripping across it's surface. It comes in odd colors of light blue with rings of deeper blue.
 Brilliantly printed silks. usually of falIicIlCd Ildhc, dIS put UdCk lHlO the spring fashions, although they need an artist to incorporate them in a costume. The world Is rather weary of the futuristic designs. as they have been conimonized in these silks to an alarming degree. The Italian strip ing is preferred, especially when used as sash, as a turnover collar or as facings to tho wide Italian sleeves that the French designers have pressed upon their public.
 By the way, why does not somebody revive the old Roman sash? The rib bons worn by the Neapolitan women are also strikingly lovely. They could bo combined with white Georgette crepe, with khaki and oyster colored Shantung and with white and cream satin frocks in such a way that de- cidedly good accent would be given to summer apparel.
 The kind of flannel that we once wore Is revived in white. plaid and colors. and not only for jackets and suits, but it may be for petticoats, if this weather keeps up.
 Two years ago Jeanne Lanvin