Evening star., 1918-08-25
The Style Was Advanced Successful
Today Is Recognized Leading Factor Dress-nother
New Silhouette Is Produced
te Is Produced.

foundation stone of this war, and
hold on to 1t as to a iiferope. They
must not be morbid, and they must
not be shabby. Optimism must shine
from their faces and their clothes
mass of women have risen TO 1t. as
women can be depended upon to do In
any national emergency.
So. summing up all this. and making
our appearance part OF the morale
Of a nation. the question bobs up as
to how best to dress between now and
the first frost. II spring clothes are
still doing duty they are undoubtedly
faded and, shabby, If woman has
been in active service. They must be
en- buys new things; another set buys
new coverings. 1t Is question OF
taste and comfort.
There is small hope for topcoat
ended when capes became the fashion.
Foresighted women indulged in tho
loose, picturesque cape two years ago.
and clung to the theory that 1t was
the comfortable and suitable type Of
covering for a frock or a. suit. The
shops finally took UP the theory, and
sis to $40. A'' - 80 '
There is no diminution in the FASH
ion. The economical woman finds that
a fresh new covering can hide a faded
or dusty gown and give one feeling
OF self-respect in public places. The
new ,capes are suitable for coat suits
as well as frocks, and their fabrics
all the heavy Chinese silks. striped
and plain taffeta, broadcloth, velour
and chiffon are chosen.
Now the topcoat has become a part
cape to be worn over 1t. 1t is rather
fascinating as a redingote. 1t resolves
itself into this kind of garment, but
when 1t is of crepe de chine or extra
50 soft Is satin e. It is slipped over a severe.
color and forms polonaise.
These new topcoats follow the path
blazed by the Jackets that belong to
suits, in that they do not fasten in
front. In fact. they do not pretend to
even meet in front. They are broad
enough to reach across the chest and
waist, but the fashionable trick is to
push the fronts back until they are
almost under the arms, in order that
broad expanse Of the frock may
show.
Do not run over this item as an in
significant one. It is fashion that
was begun in Paris Ave months ago.
when the. first warm weather broke
into being. and 1t has ruled since then.
IN America VIE are just beginning to
take 1t up with any enthusiasm, and
by the time we have established 1t as
a fashion our cold weather will make
US bring the fronts of our coats to-
gether and fasten them snugly from
collarbone to hips.
II one uses a Jacket. long or short.
as redingote, the need for fastening
Will not present itself. for the cold
cloth or fur. with its huge collar. and
one may wear any kind Of costume
beneath 1t. Herein lies its value to
the economist.
binatfon is brilliantly done in capes
that are worn on the street as well as
to evening affairs. The body Of the
cape is OF black satin. and the decora-
tions are of white satin. The weather
Is hot enough to permit these thin
fabrics capes to be worn during all
the waking hours. They cover null
tttude of bad details in gown that
could not do service IL exposed to the
searching sunlight.
The idea Of pulling back the fronts
OF a redingote or Jacket in order to
Is not mere idle trick that is con-
fned to one garment. 1t is part of
a, certain silhouette. 1t is a dominant
note In what Paris has done for the
American trade for three months. 1t is
2, bit new to us: but 1t Is wise to look
into 1t well and consider 1t seriously,
because. after all. the silhouette is
more important than the choice of
material or color. II you get your
lines right you can take great deal
OF liberty elsewhere in your costume.
This new trick is a definite attempt
Ito put fullness at the sides of the fig
ure and therefore broaden the fiat out
line that Is presented from the front
or the back. Short Jackets are pushed
back to give fullness under the arms;
long ones are pushed back to give
fullness from shoulder to knees, and
new frOcksr are specially designed
with this silhouette in mind
There is smart new blue serge
from Paris that has all its fuliness
arranged from under the arms to the
hem OF the skirt. This fullness is made
up from a succession OF pleats that
are held in over the hipc W bands Of
military braid that cross the middle
outline by several inches.
There is no effort to widen the hem
OF the skirt by means Of its fullhess.
It Is securely pressed or stitched in
place. for as skirts grow longer they
grow narrower.
1t is difficu1t to talk of economy and
conservation in respect to brand
new fashion that Is hurled at us out
Of the blue. Yet the combination is
mot only possible, but oftentimes
49, 80