Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-10-20

majority Of women accept the dc.
sire OF the American designers tC
launch an ankle-lenEth skirt
Those who have been criticized
for exploiting this design at time
when the conservation OF wool \
necessary, insist that they can cut
such skirt out Of less material
than the short flarlng one which has
been the fashion. An extremely
narrow, short skirt has proved "a
manner in which It rides above TIM
knees when one Is seated.
There is an immense amount Of
velvetecn, also soft velours. velvet
and heavy satin. One does not have
to use wool in order to have a warm
or fashionable gown or suit. Vel
veteen has been accepted as a fabric
I for the commoncst kind OF usage,
and 1t serves In the early morning
for coat suit with waistcoat-
blouse OF anGora wool or heavily
embroidered jersey.
There are hsmespuns and various
types OF mannish materials OF which
| the tailors seem to have sufficient
TO make all tho suits demanded; but
there is no denying that both jack
cts and skirts are longer than they
have been for several seasons since
the summer OF the war.
Jackets Have Irregular Hens.
The foremost designers OF Jackets
play all sorts OF tricks upon the
hem. cutting 1t to points like a jes-
ter's costume, and blocking 1t out
in battlements as II 1t were me-
diaeval tower.
One well-known dressmaker ac-
centuates this jester effect In frockB
as well as Jackets, He cuts long
panels at the sides which hang from
hip to hem OF skirt; he places long
panels on the sleeves that leave the
arm at the elbow and drop to the
knees, and he cuts the bodice into a
panel at tho middle OF the back, let
ting IT drop below the knees. All
OF these panels end in sharp points.
They are not placed simultaneously
on one suit or frock, but are used in
various methods over the majority
of street clothes.
There are some short jackets.
Doucet and Cheruit and many OF
their American followers, have
adopted square hip-length jacket
that does not give long lines. does
not promote tho established silhOu-
ette, cite, but achieves an air and
prestige OF its own, apart from the
regular run OF fashions.
Doucet made one especially strikS Z
ing costume that has been taken up
by smart women. 1t is In deep to-
bacco- brown cloth. The jacket is in
box shape, and en- nearly tho whole
surface. except for about four inches,
is laid flat piece OF sealskin. II
goes vita out saying that an excellent
trick like this was taken up by every
one who demanded something new in
coat suits.
The desire OF the United States
government to promote Alaska seal
skin fur for American women bore
agreeable results, and by some per-
suasion the French designers aceded
to the wish that American peltry
should rule. 1t Is true that Russian
squirrel steadily advances, but 1t is
also true that most OF these animals
grow in the woods OF America.
New Fastenlngs on Jackets.
No woman who Is interested In
the subject OF her coat suit which
is the usual first choice OF the aut-
umn, should be ignorant of the d.
agonal fastening which has leaped
into fame as substitute for the
conventional opening down the front
A great many tailors, some OF
whom are among the best in this
country, do not cater TO this novelty.
but the women like 1t. One guesses
that It's inspiration was in the Sam
Browne belt and women believe that
the bias line across the bust is an
attractive one. Buttons are some
times used down this line, and often
1t is braided or run with tiny strands
of tarnished golG braid. II the ma
terial is velvet or velveteen.
1t is not possible to say that the
other novelty in the method OF fast
ening the Jacket. which Is in a
straight line down the spine. Is
new thing. but 1t is possible to say
that 1t is a pleasing thing. 1t has
spread like a prairie fire.
There are jackets that are mod
eled on straight culrass bodices, built
Of deeply colored bfoadcloth or vel
ours, such as Burgundy or bottle
green, and these end at the hips, are
cut in battlements at the hem. and