Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-04-21
Features of Spring Clothes.

61HE colored sash is a dominating
feature on evening gowns. 1t Is
q made Of Chinese blue taffeta, OF
yellow satin. Of transparent Egyptian
gauxe, beaded and spanSlsd. Of brocaded
velvet and satin ribbon and OF plain
charmeuse. The most sumptuous even.
ing gown of jet, metallic tissue ana
thread lace will have q sash OF copen-
hagen blue silk. with one streamer 1aiis
ing over the short tulle train.
Gypsy girdles taken from Rumanin
and the Syrian countries are made of
soft, exquisite brocades. girdle OF
Chinese embroidery and brocade is
wrapped around the hips or lifted above
the waist on a chiffon or satin gown.
and the long ends are heavily weighted
with beads or fringe.
House gowns made from three and
four colored chiffons. superimposed. are
gird1ed from waist half way to knees.
loosely and gracefully, with plant bro
caded ribbon.
1t is interesting that the dressmakers
have thrown the weight of their in ;
fiuence in favor of sumptuous metallic
cloths, tissues and ribbons, while they
Danish metallic laces. There may be
wisdom and policy behind this act. The
French dressmakers are DESTROYS of in
stftuting a widespread desire for thread
laces. They have put them on multi
tude of new spring frocks. The shops
wish to sell their great quantities OF
laces. >
The dressmakers find in the lace fervor
fashion easily handled by those who
are skilled in drapery. Therefore, the
balance Is against the metallic lAces, !
but all the world shows kindness to- /.
that they should be introduced In such
quantities at the beginning Of warm
weather, but they are not only used for
evening gowns, but combined with
navy blue serge ana crepe de chine for
afternoon wear.
While broad sashes are used for house
gowns there is clever ingenuity shown
are made Of metallic ribbons. plain.
beaded In colors. or embroidered. They
do not confine the waist: they are mere
| ly used to break the line of the gar.
ment
Beaded Indian strings are again In
| high favor, after their partial failure
| last October. However. they are not as
| much sought after by the public as the
gold and black metal ribbon or the steel
and blue.
Gold and black Chinese ribbons.
sumptuously brocaded. are used for en-
tire evening gowns. They are dropped.
in the Chinese fashion. from waist to
| hem, and they have under foundations.
| in the occidental fashion. of black tulle
/ over gold tissue. The bodice Of such a
gown is made entirely of the ribbon
wrapped around the inquire, with the
black tulle shoulder piece holding long
or short sleeves.
Those who are wearing wide skirts
get their authority from Jeanne Lam;
win, one of the first designers of tho
| world. She is the only dressmaker who
insisted upon the five-yard skirt, and
she held to her conviction by turning
out dozens of gathered or pleated skirts
that hang Imply to the figure, but are
not in keeping with the narrow sil.'
houette of the day. She is not unpa-
! triotic. She did not use an undue
amount of wool in these skirts. She had
a few dozen other materials to handle,
| and she is quite right in insisting that
all her organdy skirts should be five
yards at the hem. Nothing is more un.
| calmly than a hobble skirt. of muslin or
transparent fabric, but it is believed
| that the Americans In mass will not ac-
/ cept Lanvin's skirts. they prefer the
| redingote over a slim founda tion when
| they wish fullness.
| To brighten somber gown the de-
signers give one a chance to put in
Chinese mandarin sleeves of colored
tulle. This is note of Importance to
| the home dressmaker and to the econo-
| mist. A black or blue silk or satin gown
| to be worn indoors may have sleeves Of
| burgundy, kings blue. deep, golden
yellow or violet.