davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
ONLY JOB OF KIND
Merchant Marine Has an Official
Chantie Man.
Salt, Teaches Rockies to Sing
Sea Songs.

Decentralization Fl. King of Boston
has the only war job Of it's kind.
He is official chantie man for the
American merchant marine.
8 His work will be to revive chantie
singing among merchant sailors who
will join the country's new cargo ships
through the United States shipping
board recruiting service, national head
quarters of which are at Boston.
While chantie singing has declined
on all seas, owing to the change in re-
cent years from sailing vessels to
steamers-there not being much op.
portunity to "heave and haul" on
board steamer-its revival is consid.
cred important for two reasons.
Chanties insure team work when a
crew is pulling on ropes, even aboard
steamers; while the building of large
numbers of American schooners means
an increased demand for men who can
'reef, hand and steer" on sailing YES
sells, where chantie singing used to
flourish.
The shipping board trains men to
serve on steamers, but if a certain per-
centage ship on sailing vessels and
carry with them the almost lost knack
of chantie singing, they will be the bet
ter equipped for their work, according
to sharps on the seafaring game.
Stanton Fl. King probably is the
country's best-known chantie singer,
Chantie singing is part of weekly en-
tertainment he gives Jack ashore at a
mission of which he is head.
The program is usually varied, and
to hear Mr.. King lead his sailor friends
in shenandoah" Bound for the Rio
Grande" or "Blow the Man Down" is
to understand the psychologist punch Of
the well-sung chantie.
Mr.. King is an old salt and learned
chantie singing on deep water vessels.
He began going to sea SO years ago,
from the Barbados, in the merchant
service.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07

Gown worn at the FoIies Beraere. 1t
was exploited by Mile. MontviIIe
and is of midnight blue satin with
pailIettes of satin. Note how it is
caught at the ankles.
Lace bodices will be returned for
usage under coat suits, and blouses
that fall below the waist and are Cir
died with wildly colored ribbons, will
be added to suits Of white flannel,
matelasse and jersey.
BY the way, white flannel has sided
into the limelight. Palm Beach ap-
proves of it. Smart women say they
like it better than jersey. Once upon
time, it was the accepted summer
garb of our leisure millionaire class
of men, but we have no such class
today, and the decks of yachts and
other pleasure craft have been placed
In the category of things that were.
Copyright, 1918, by the Mcclure Newspa-
Der Syndicate.)
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07

Jersey frock for young girl. 1t is Of
bands of black velvet embroidered
in silver. There are long, loose
sleeves.
house, that the historian of the future
will surely look with extraordinary in
terest upon the psychological change
that took place in 100,000000 people
in eight months.
There are changes in a nation that
do not create surprise when they are
thrust upon it by an invading army
in war, but the change in America is
one of spirit. There is money a-plenty,
men by the millions, industries at full
speed, and yet, with wealth and re-
sources, 1OO000,000 people have turned
a sOmerSault in their attitude toward
material possessions.
Slim Little Clothes.
The passion for conservation wiped
out of existence the fashion for flow
ing robes made of plenteouS material.
Whenever a slim silhouette has been
thrust into the fashions, whenever an
extremely short and narrow skirt has
been offered to women, critics galore
have risen in their chickering's and de-
nounced women as immodest, indecent
and vain to the uttermost degree.
There is no such pickering today,
however. The critics Of WOmen's
clothes remain silent. A man looks
appraiSingly at woman gowned in q
conservation costume and mods his
head in approval, as though she car
ried a flag.
There is no more talk about indie
cency. The talk hinges upon the pa
triotiSm shown in the slenderneSs Of
silhouette and in the scarcity of ma
terials won Therefore, fashion and
national approval so hand in hand.
Unless we are mockingly indecent and
there is no chance of that today, there
is none to rise and call us outrageous.
The excessive decolletage of two
years ago would create storm Of pro-
test in any public place. Giggling,
painted women with mere belts held
over their shoulders by slipping bands
of rhinestones, would be frowned down
by men in khaki and by those in ci-
william clothes.
And yet women may go on the
street with skirts so short and narrow
that they closely resemble trousers,
and laced army boots or puttees that
reach well above the calf of the leg,
and not glance is given them that ex-
presses contempt or disapproval
The new suits in Paris, as we'll as
those that are launched in America,
show these skirts. Some are so mar
row that they might cause discomfort
If it were not that their shortness gave
freedom of movement.
Coats are short when they belong
to suits. Army capes ripple down the
figure when warmth is needed.
| The cape will be exceedingly smart
this season, so you who have one Of
these garments tucked in the closet,
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07

Redeeming mans discarded shirts
and making babies dresses, like those
worn by the Riddles in this photo,
from Them is the novel idea Of Mrs.
A. D. Gilmore, and she is devoting a
great deal Of her time to this work.
She has organized a club Of her own,
and has volunteered to act as instruct
Or Of similar clubs.
Her plan will put to good use ma
terial ordinarily wasted, and it is
hoped that hundreds Of useful little
dresses for children Of the war zone
will be made. The need is great and
the ability to meet it in part requires
comparatively little.
This is too good an idea to be con-
fined to one section of the country.
Clubs should spring up everywhere to
aid in this noble and humanitarian
work OF clothing the little war zone
refugees.
If you haven't the time, but have
the shirts, send them to Mrs. Gilmore
at the Yonkers chapter Of the Red
Cross. This photograph shows Mrs.
Gilmore with her two little children
wearing short dresses, but you'd never
know it, for the little dresses are very
daintily made.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
MOST DANGEROUS JOB
Men OF Ambulance Service Work
Under Fire.
Risk Their Lives to Get American Sol
diers Wounded in Action to
the Surgeons.

Neutrality-suspicious. dangerous Of all
the work of the American Red Cross
is the ambulance service The drivers
and attendants of these ambulances
are always under fire.
Lieut.. Frank Dempsey talked inter-
estingly about the life Of q Red Cross
ambulance driver in the Verdun sector
where the fighting has been the hot
test. The Germans know the country
and are able to drop big shells with
great accuracy on the roads the ambu-
lances must travel.
sour work is never out of range of
the big guns" said he. 1--WE go up to
the third-Iine trench, gather the
wounded anl take them back q mile to
the dressing station. Here only the
toughest bandaging is done and then
we start back another mile or so to an
other station where the most desperate
cases are operated upon.
''In the first week we handle the
wounded four or five times and finally
leave them in the evacuation hospitals.
From there they are carried to the
base hospitals, usually on trains"
Thus the Red Cross ambulance driver
risks his life to get American soldiers
to the surgeons. Lieutenant Dempsey
had his ambulance blown to pieces
while he WaS short distance away
picking up wounded man.
When the wounded soldier gets to
the dressing stations or hospitals he is
assured Of the best bandages because
loving hands in America in Red Cross
chapters have prepared them. And q
CHEEKY Red Cross nurse will smooth his
pillow and make his convalescence
pleasant.
The dollars given to the Red Cross
are doing more than 100 cents worth
Of good.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
STEP TO VEIL TARTAR WOMEN
Mohannedan Order EnIarges Hand
Ieerchiefs to Hide Face of
Wives and Daughters.

Petrograd.-The Mohammedan Tar
tar men Of Tchistopol district province
of Kayan, have ordered their wives
and daughters each to sew half a
square Of extra material TO the hand
kerchiefs with which they cover their
heads.
The women long ago ceased to veil;
but when meeting unknown men they
took tab Of the bow formed by tying
handkerchiefs beneath the chin, and
held the tab before the face in place
of veil.
Unluckily, as the handkerchlefs with
the passing of time grew smaller, the
tabs ceased to cover the face, and the
act became only symbol. To make it
again reality husbands and fathers
are insisting on bigger handkerchiefs.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
WITH A NOsEGAY ON COLLAR
Embroidered Flowers in Natural Col
oring Affords Pleasing Springlike
Touch to the New Girlish Suits.

Two advance models for misses have
them a distinct springtime atmos-
phere. Silk floss flowers in natu-
raj coloring embellish the right side of
youthful narrow shawl collars, look
ing as though fresh nosegays had been
tucked in.
A small pink carnation with foliage
is very chic on an Elton suit of navy
tricotine, which may also be worn as
a dress. Black satin folds are used
to define the tailored shapeliness of
collar and cuffs whose curves match,
as we'll as a horizontal barlike panel
which offsets the double-breasted clos
ing. Two flying panels, one piece
above shoulder blades, give an unusual
back to the Elton, for the ends of each
are finished with cord fringe.
There is a one-sided tunic on the
narrow skirt which completes this
model. The other, nobby suit Of navy
Poiret twill, has bluet embroidered
on it, tracings of silver thread simply
marking the shadows cast by the blend
ing shades of floss.
Oblong inset panels on the narrow
belt and others Of larger dimensions ar
ranged half way between skirt section
and bodice at center back and one at
either side front on the skirt section
help to serve as pockets, are other
features that are "different."
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07

mind it well, for in a few weeks you
may be able to swing it on with the
bravado adopted by all those women
who are in war activities or would like
to be.
The Exaggerated Waistccat.
Capes, and long waistcoats that
reach half way to the knees, are sub
stitutes for coats in the absence Of
suits, although the really smart thing
is the Elton or the bolero jacket, as far
as the American fashions are con-
| cerned.
The early French clothes sent to
this country before the present exhibit
tons in Paris showed the short Jacket
cut much after the manner of those
worn by the French soldiers in Al
giers, and often supplemented by the
brilliant scarlet or yellow sash or an
immense suede belt pulled through sew
eral buckles in front.
The Elton jacket is not for the wom-
an with hips, however, and unless she
has been able to reduce her figure to
the proportions of planked shad, it
| is wiser for her to look upon other
models with more approval.
There are short coats that hang
straight from the shoulders to finger
length below the waist and are slightly
belted in such manner that the waist
line is casually defined.
Because of it's limitations, this short
jacket cannot be the ruling fashion.
None know that better than the
French artists, SO they have sent over
loose coats Of silk poplin, and the
American designers have turned out
new cape which reaches to the hips,
is slim in outline and fastens at the
neck with a high rolling collar.
The Revival of Lace.
Starting out with the foundation
stone Of the new Paris fashions, which
are based on the conservation of other
materials than wool, and remembering
we'll that you must not bulge Or flare
or to provoke discussion as to your
extravaganza in the usage Of fabric,
then it is wise to go on to the minor
adjuncts Of fashion.
The revival of silk poplin is a bit
Of news that appeals to the majority
Of women. You know, this fabric
makes admirable coat suits, and with
the modern activity of nearly every
woman in this country, there will not
be such a wide demand as usual for
frocks that need constant cleaning
and laundering.
The late spring and summer will
probably usher in a vast array Of
women dressed in silk poplin. Shan
tung, the thinnest gaberdine, satin
and dark fOIlard.
The tailored suit which is adopted
by such numbers Of women doing
active relief work, has already set
it's impress upon the fashions, and it
is quite probable, despite the talk Of
the dressmakers, that coat suits of
silk poplin in black, beige, brown and
blue will rise to unusual heights of
popularity. Let us hope this may
come about.
Dinner gowns are Of black, white
and cream lace, and they are elabo-
rately touched up with threads Of sill
yer and gold.
Scant lace fiounces are draped over
slim Innings of satin and taffeta.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
HIRsUTE ADORNMENT FOR ALL
Transformation Proves Decidedly
Helpful to Woman Who Have
No Maid.

The baldest woman becomes beauti-
full, or, if her features don't permit it,
at least attractive, under the magic in
f1uence of a well-made transformation,
notes a fashion writer in the New York
Herald. The transformations of dec
ade ago and today are vastly differ
ent, for modern hairdressers have so
perfected this hirsUte adornment that
only an expert is able to detect that it
is not the real thing. In other days
when woman took to a transforma-
ton to cover up a scarcity Of locks she
deceived no one but herself, for her ar
tifcial aid to nature was wholly ap-
parent to curious eyes. The trans
formations were not well made, and
no one ever mistook them for anything
except just what they were.
Today all this is changed. The mod
ern transformation is thing of beauty
and JOY forever, comfort and con-
venience without which many a wom-
an could not make an attractive tot
lette. Some folk prefer a side part
ing, others one in the center; others,
again, object to a parting at all. The
modern transformation is made to suit
all tastes.
The very fact that the transforma-
ton can be taken off and dressed"
before wearing completely does away
with so many of the difficulties against
which the "maidless'' woman has
to contend.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
WOMEN'SAPPAREL
AND WAR PERIOD
No More Criticism Is LeveIed at
the Short, Narrow
Skirt.
cAPES AND CORsLETS NEW
Short Zouave Jackets That Show Bril-
liant Sashes, And in Conservation
of Material, the WatchWord in
America and Paris.

New York.-The conservation of
wool is an established fact in France
and America. It is a fact that will en-
tirely change our conception of ap-
parel.
Silk will rule. The world has a sur
plus of other materials, it would seem,
from statistics, and yet the foundation
stone of conservation will extend
throughout the fashionable clothes ''for
the period Of the war"
The fundamental idea Of saving has
so penetrated the consciousness of our
people, the propaganda is so wide
spread and vital, writes Anne Ritten-
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
Sleeveless Sweater.

The sleeveless sweater is a great
success. Everybody who has knitted
this type of sweater for the Red Cross,
according to specifications, knows that
in one guise it must fill a real want.
And then there are the purely frivo-
lous sleeveless sweaters of silk and
wool, in gay colors, sometimes bor-
dered around the neck and armholes
and lower edge with narrow band of
angora. The sleeveless sweater is usu-
ally of the slip-over style, that Is pulled
On and off over the head.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07

Foulard is popular material, but it
is going to be more popular during the
coming spring and summer months.
This frock is made most simply, in line
with war styles, but it has appeal and
attraction for the buds. The apron or
panel effect in front is unique. The
dress is in red and white, while the
front panel of white georgette has bead
embroidery.
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
EMPLOYEES WEAR
WAR SERVICE BADGES

Portland, Ore.-'War service
badges" are being proudly worn
by employees of the Northwest
Steel company here. The con-
Germ is engaged in building g.
SOO-ton freighters for the Emer-
gency Fleet corporation and its
5000 employees have all been
exempted from the draft. The
"war service badge" is about
three inches long, two inches
wide, and is oval in shape, of
nickel and bears the words
"War Service-Shipbuilding."
Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1918-03-07
THE FLY
BY Theodosia Garrison
of The ViqiIantes.

or The VigilanteS.
The bearer OF fool-stories,
Would liken to the Household Ely,
Who is, considered at its best,
A Germ-Conveyer and a Pest.
1.-THE Red Cross sells the things we
knit"
"Our camps are evil-men unfit"
These are the germs they bear about
To spread distrust and gloom and
doubt.
With Sense and Science let us try
Elimination Of The Fly.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1918-12-27
PLAYING FAIR

With the coming of peace there will be a tendency
10 forget what the boys have done in this war. ALREADY
! uniform looks different" says a cynic from a neisnoor-
ing city-and to hin it probably does. But to the great
mass of Americans it does not. and it must not. We must
not allow our ardor for the soldiers to cool off, they are
still our soldiers. They are entitled TO all the consldera-
ton, to all the love and affection they would be entitled
to if the war were going on at this very moment.
But it must be confessed there is a tendency to for
get. Few of US remember the bridge which bore us across
the stream, after we have safely crossed over. In the
heat of battle, in the hours when the smoke of destruct-
make many promises. We are going to do, oh, ever
40 much for those who rescue us. But no sooner has
began losing our enthusiasm for our saviors. These long
casualty lists that are being printed from day to day ought
ought to fasten in our minds forever the meaning of the
uniform.
It cannot be expected that We remain keyed up IN
our excitement. The martial music does not sound so
Inspiring when it is known there is no enemy to be met.
But deep down in our hearts We can resolve that we shan
not forget the uniform, nor treat it with any less respect
when a peace treaty is signed than we did in the dark
days when the boys went marching away.-Columbus
Dispatch.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1918-12-27
The Boy Scouts In Italy

OF Tivoli and near Varignapo and
Spezia, the Boy Scouts showed their
ability and skill in the signal, tele-
graph and telephone services: in Civ
ing of assistance; in Typographical
work, in the construction of barracks,
bridges and roads; in the Alpine
storming; in fordinE rivers: in rescue
work; in the use Of the field instru.
ments and in all camp work.
The italian government is now con-
siderine 4 bis plan to develop the Boy
Scouts. The leaders are studying ways
to incorporate with it all the scout
forces OF the country and especially
those. now supported by the Catholic
party.
Recently q special census board was
for h purpose of keeping
a matriculation book to register the
record Of every one. from the date of
he will leave the corps for military
or civil duties. In each public school
there will be a section Of the corps.
| The state Will supply uniforms at cost.
Free uniforms will be given to> the
poor. a special corps publication,
'sii Preparato" (Be %prepared) is is
sued by the government monthly.
week in the future.
Special attention will be given to
those who went to serve in the navy.
The Premier Orlando, in addressing
the Boy Scouts in Rome, emphasized
the heroic defense Of the Grappa and
i Pave, made by the soldiers of the
ella sses 1s99-1900, the majority OF
which had the preliminary military
instruction in the Boy Scouts Corps.
saying: Italy was the first nation
which put the youngest soldiers in
the first line and they performed the
most heroic feats OF valor and showed
the world what the young people can
accomplish when they are educated
as Young Italian Explorers. which is
the name used In speaking of the ltal-
ian Boy Scouts"
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1918-12-27

to be present at a review Of American troops abroad. and
It seems that the occasion, exceptional and unforsettable]
As it was, inspired the president to utter some genuinely
appreciative remarks which will be heartily. echoed all
over this country.
You have done your duty" Mr.. Wilson said to the
soldiers. and then added: And something more. you
have done your duty with a spirit which gave It .Aastinc-
ton and glory" No soldier OF the 'srande arnse" Of
Napoleon's France could have been prouder or hAppiar
when the little corporal pinned his decorations on sraysl
mems chests than the Americans must have bean while
listening to the praise and the words OF gratitude that tel
from the lips Of their country.s executive.
OF late It has become almost customary to point out
that the president represents no nation abroad; >hs - not
sent by the people, nor by any OF the congressional chanp.
bers. it is asserted. He represents himself and no one
else, according to sayings which are becoming mora and
more frequent.
But whatever the facts Of this may be, there il NO
doubt that the entire nation was back Of MI. Wilson when
he paid homage to the American soldier. In q happy
moment he was inspired to say exactly what the people
have thought and what they have feebly tried to enbody
in words. Through the president the battle line ct home
conveyed its Christmas greeting to the long. long lines
Of the trenches and the blood-soaked fields of France and
Flanders. Surely, in. giving expression to all the wishes
and all the everlasting thankfulness, that burn in the
hearts of those at home, President Wilson performed a
task in which he was the full Pledged representative Of
the American nation.
At almost the same time the president greeted the
troops in France, some Of the biggest hattleships Of the
United States dropped anchor at Sandy Hook-home from
the incessant watching of disturbed seas. 1t might look
as though the coincidence was prearranged by some skill
full stage manager, for it is certain that between the
Christmas review at chaumont and the return Of the
greyhounds to New York there is a deep and significant
connection which is so obvious that further explanation
would be supernuous.
The things which soldiers and sailors set out to do,
have been done. AT one end of the line the nation,
through its presidet, acclains the army, and at the other
end the nation through its government representatives
and its greatest metropolitan population exteds the glad
hand of welcome to returning sea fighters.
Was, ever such a Christmas heard of in the history
Of the New World? y.