davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
FOULARD FINDS ITS WAY

Into bathing suits. OF course it is
little previous for most of us to talk
of bathing suits, but in Southern re-
sorts are already to be seen the modes
that will be in favor with us all later
on. These foulard bathing suits are
usually in dark blue or black and
white.
Into millinery. Some of the new
sailor hats have crushed bands Of
foulard silk to match the gown with
which they are worn. Sometimes the
foulard is in batik design, and some
times it is simply dark blue or black
foulard with white polka dots.
Into coat Innings. Sometimes in the
spring suits that combine the mini
mum of wool with enough silk to sup
ply the wool deficiencies the lining of
the coat is of foulard to match the
underskirt or other silk part of the
suit.
Into collar and cuff sets for serge
dresses. The pattern showing polka
dots and ring dots are especially
chosen for collar and cuff sets to be
worn with navy blue or black serge
street frocks for spring.
Into parasols. Some of the newest
parasols are made of foulard in black
and white or blue and white in all
sorts Of designs. The silk is shirred
and sometimes ruffied and tucked and,
because of its softness, it lends itself
especially well to this sort Of treat
ment.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
COLOREDCOLLARSINP PARIS
White Neckpiece Gives Way to Differ
ent Welcomed Shades-Striped
and Checked Ginghams.

A letter from Paris says that the
white collar has given way to a col
ored one. Gowns of jersey, wolfe and
serge carry broad handkerchief collars
of plaid bingham. Dark suits and one
piece frocks carry high, rolling col
lars and broad, gauntlet cuffs of blue,
rose, lavender and yellow Organdie
edged with filet lace or with the Or
candle itself.
The use of brilliantly striped and
checked bingham for entire collars has
met with approval in France, although
it is still a question in allegiance over
here.
The prophecy is that America will
take to these collars with eagerness.
We like Bingham. Whenever we get
chance to wear it we rush in and al
most spoil it by overpOpularity.
For those who do not like the all
bingham collars there will be nainsook,
organdie and heavy filet lace ones
edged with broad bands of Bingham.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
STORM KILLS II IN 2 STATES
Probably $50 Injured in Iowa and
IIIinois-Damage Estimated
at 100000.

Chicago, May 13.-With additional
reports coming in the death list from
the tornado on Thursday in Illinois
and Iowa swelIed to 17-ten in Iowa
and seven in Illinois. AS wires are
still down in many localities, it is
feared that other deaths are still I'M
reported. Probably $50 persons were
injured and a rough estimate placed
property damage at $1,000,000.
A list of the afflicted communities,
with the number of deaths, is as fol-
lows:
Nashua, Ia, 2; Plainfield, Ia, |;
New Hampton, Ia, 3; Calmer, Ia, 4 1;
Toulon, H., 2; Franklin, ILL.,, 3; Ell
mira, ILL.,, 2.
With 80 per cent of the telephone
and telegraph wires down, southern
Michigan also is recovering from one
of the worst wind and electrical storms
in several years. The storm struck
the state shortly after midnight Thurs
day, sweeping across the southern strip
of counties and striking Detroit with
its full velocity.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
WAGE BOARD GIVES
RAIL MEN INCREASE
Allowances, Based on Living Cost,
Benefit 1,939,399.
UP TO H'kDoo FOR APPROVAL
Commission Submits Report to the Di-
rector General, Dealing With Va
rous Phases of the Railroad
Situation.

Washington, D. c., May 9.-An adj
vance in wages to 1,939,399 railroad
employees, and ranging from L per
cent to the highest to 43 per cent to
the lowest paid, aggregating $300,000,-
600 is provided for in the report to
Director General McAdoO by the rail-
road wage commission.
Mr. McAdoo is expected TO adopt
only part of the recommendations and
probably will make a number of diff
ferent alignments in deciding what
wage increases shall be granted.
In general, the director general adj
vOcates higher pay for most classes Of
wOrkmen to enable them to meet in
creased living costs, but he has been
represented as favoring proportionate-
ly larger increases for some classes
than for others now making the same
pay. He also is strongly opposed to
granting wage increases which might
disarrange the general scheme of pay
existing throughout other industries.
Leaders to Protest.
The leaders of the four principal
railway brotherhoOds found on ex-
aiming the report that they had
been recommended for less than half
the increases they had asked of the
railroad arrangements before govern
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
HERE AND THERE IN SHOPS
New Sports Skirt Made of Striped
WooI-New Chiffon Fabric-Straw
FIowers-PIaited Tulle.

One of the new sports skirts is made
up and down. The skirt is so cut
that the stripes are mitered, begin
ming at hip depth in the back, and
they meet at the back seam in a cross
wise direction. The two stripes OIL
rectly in front run from waist to hem,
forming panel. The two next stripes,
one on each side of the front, are
mitered at hem depth, and so on each
two stripes are inferred higher and
higher until those at the back are NIL
tered at hip depth.
One of the new chiffon fabrics is
made with a deep border running along
one side of silver embroidery, in
rich and intricate design.
Straw flowers, not novelty this sea-
son, are shown on some of the new
hats. The very fact that they are not
a novelty has given them chance to
show what they are worth, and we all
know from experience that they are
durable for summer hats that will get
hard wear.
Tulle is sold all plated, by the yard,
to place about the crown and brim of
the straw hat. This tulle comes with
a wide flouncing, laid in plaits, to
place over the brim of the hat, and a
narrower flOuncing, likewise laid In
plaits, to stand upright about the
crown. A soft folded band of tulle
that goes about the bottom of the
crown connects the two widths Of
fiOuncing. With big flower, perhaps
placed against the crown where the
tulle is Joined, the hat trimming is
complete.
We have heard and seen much of
braid this season. One striking suit
of sand-colored gaberdine is made with
all edges, including the hem of the
skirt, bound with self-colored braid
couple of inches wide. The sleeves,
long, and f1aring over the hand, are
slashed at the outside seam and this
slashing, of course, is also bound with
the braid.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
Cut Border Off, Work Design In Net by
Weaving in ard Out the Meshes
With Coarse Cotton.

Pretty sash curtains may be made
from discarded long net ones. Cut the
border off, work design in the net by
weaving in and ont the meshes with
coarse cotton. Many beautiful and orig
inaI designs may be made. The work
is very fascinating and so quickly done
that only short time is needed to
make a curtain.
With border worked lengthwise Of
the curtain and up the sides in seal
Hoped design and afterward cut out the
curtain is full enough for an ordinary
window. If it is not long enough loops
may be crocheted in the top to run a
rod in.
When washed and dipped in coffee
to which a small amount of starch has
been added roll up for an hour and
iron on the wrong side. The result is a
dainty and durable curtain at no cost
and very little labor.
Cut old muslin curtains in strips a
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
LLOYD GEORGE WINS
COMMONS VOTES CONFIDENCE
AFTER PREMIER REFUTES
CHARGES.
Sustained by Vote of 293 to 1906
Declares Army Figures Are
True.

London, May 11.-Ex-Premier AS
quith's motion for the appointment of
a select committee to investigate the
charges made by General Maurice
against Premier Lloyd George was re-
Jected in the house Of commons on
Thursday by vote of 293 to 100. Sir
Edward Carson, leader of the Irish
to proceed with his motion. Sir Ed
ward said that if the veracity of the
ministers was not believed in the house
there was no longer any possibility of
carrying on the government.
Mr.. Lloyd George said that if the
again be responsible for the conduct
of the war.
Premier Lloyd George was cheered
loudly when he arose to speak. He said
he had been treated unfairly. 1t was
the business of General Maurice to
come to the cabinet and point out
where the ministers had made mis-
takes, he declared.
Denying that the, strength Of the
British fighting forces had been mis-
represented as stated by General Maui
rice, Mr.. Lloyd George asserted the fig
ures which he had given were taken
from official records at the war office.
Since that time he had made inquiries
on this point, he added, and the figures
were not inaccurate.
In regard to the comparison between
the enemy and the allied forces, the
premier added, he was charged with
misleading the public, but all the fig
ures on which his statement was based
came from General Maurice's depart
ment.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21

a long tunic coat, but this garment was
slightly punched up at the back to
form a sort of japanese sash. On a
tall, slight figure such an arrangement
would be very attractive, but for the
average woman a tunic coat which
falls straight all round is best.
Both Worth and Paquin are using a
good deal of a heavy make of silk jer-
sey cloth, especially for sports coats
of elaborate design. Worth is making
these coats of striped materials, beige
and white stripes, black and gray
stripes and so on. Nearly all the best
jersey-cloth suits are embroidered by
hand or decorated with braidings
worked in narrow silk sOutache.
These embroideries and braiding are
in the same color as the dress ma
terial as a rule, but sometimes one
finds beautiful model in which bright
colored embroideries have been intro
duced on neutral tinted jersey cloth.
Gray, in every shade, is the craze of
the year; and especially popular is the
soft shade of elephant gray.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
Berlin TRIES To
HIDE Sub LOSSES
French Minister Declares Ger
many Knows War Against
Ships Won't Succeed.
ALLIES MASTERS OF SEA
Sinking of Allies Ships by Divers
Shown to Have Dropped, While
Destruction of Pirates Has
Grown Steadily.

Paris. May 15-The effectiveness OF
the German submarine campaign is
declining. The German government is
aware of this fact, declared Georges
Leagues, minister of marine, before
the naval committee OF the chamber
OF deputies, but has made the greatest
efforts to conceal it. He said that the
situation was most favorable and that
the sinkings of submarines in the first
three months of 1918 was greater than
the number built by the enemy.
Minister Leagues referred to the
statement made in the reichstag on
April IL by Vice Admiral Won Capelle,
German minister of marine, in when
he said 100000 tons of allies shipping
were sunk monthly. This figure, the
minister said, was incorrect.
1t was reached and passed in April,
May and June of 1917. In July it de-
clined and in November it fell below
100000 and since has diminished con-
tinuously.
NJ. Leagues said that in February,
AAui III gnu Apli ., 30 Il lChSh olS"AA
ers and 7SS French sailing vessels
passed through the danger zone where
few months ago losses by torpedoing
were very heavy. Not single ship
was sunk.
On the other hand, he said, the num-
Der of submarines destroyed had in
creased progressively since January
in such proportion that the effective
ness OF enemy squadrons cannot be
maintained at the minimum required
by the regulations. The number OF
~" boats destroyed in January, Feb
ruary and March was far greater in
each month than the number construct
ed in the same month. In February
and April the number of submarines
destroyed was three less than the to-
tai destroyed in the previous three
months.
These results, the minister declared
were due to the methodical character
of the war against submarines; to the
close coordination of the allied ma
vies; to the intrepidity and spirit ami
mating the officers and crews of naval
and aerial squadrons and to the inten
sification of the use of old methods and
the employment of new ones.
"The situation is most favorable
the minister continued, 'but it does
not authorize the slackening of effort
Rather, it is necessary to redouble it
as the enemy has put new submersi
bles into service and is trying fresh
offensive, in which he plays for his
last stake"
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
PROBE FARM TOOL PRICES
Resolution Authorizes Board to In
vestigate Production and Supply
of implements.

Washington, May DEMONSTRATION
by the federal trade commission of the
production and supply of agricultural
implements and of the prices farmers
are compelled to pay for machinery is
authorized in a resolution introduced
by Senator Thompson of Kansas and
and adopted by senate. The resolution
provides for an inquiry as to the ex-
istence of "any unfair methods Of
trade or competition" and "any act,
combination. agreement or conspiracy"
to control prices of farm inn
plements, and for an investigation as
to whether farmers "are required to pay
an unreasonable price for the things
they are required to purchase and use
on the farms,
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
BLUE SILK JERSEY
Winsome Design of Material in
High Favor.
Are Decorated With Braidings
Worked in Silk Soutache.

The sketch shows a jersey-cloth cos
tune of the latest design. 1t may be
accepted as fact that jersey cloth,
in silk or wool, is as popular as ever
it was; even more popular, according
to prominent fashion correspondent.
Several of our leading dressmakers
state that jersey cloth has come to
stay. That it is as much necessity
in the world of dress as serge or satin.
This particular model was expressed in
dull blue silk jersey and embroidered
in smoke-gray silks and soutache.
This combination of blue and gray is
very fashionable. For quiet afternoon
dresses, navy blue jersey cloth is made
up with smoke-gray satin, and with the
best results. The model sketched had
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
BRITISH PRAISE
new US. TROOPS
National Army Men Make Good
Appearance During Parade
at Capital.
FINEST SIGHT OF The WAR"
Americans cheered by Huge Crowds
King, Queen, Prince of Wales and
Princess Mary Watch Spec
tacIe From Palace.

London, May 1.-THE appearance
OF American National army men on
parade in London on Saturday aroused
the enthusiasm of the Sunday papers
as have few events In months. The
writer's unite In giving unstinted praise
to the appearance of the men, and pre-
dict FOR them a record of splendid
achievement when they reach the
front
And the waiting crowds found a
new name for the visitors. AS the
first battalions swung out from Wa
terloo station some one called out to
friend that they were "a real husky
lot" The word pleased the fancy of
the crowd, and soon every one was
calling for cheers for the "huskies."
1T was a great friendship which
was struck up between the London
crowd and the American boys who
have come across to give them hand
That was the feeling that persisted to
the last when the visitors said good
by for the time being to London.
"Since the thrilling days of the first
months of the war;" says the Observ.
er, London has not known such nota-
BILE scenes of enthusiasm as of Satur
day."
'"The finest sight have seen since
the war began" was the verdict of q
young soldier who has seen service
on four fronts. The men are a fine
looking body and appear to be In the
pink of condition"
The companies filed past with light
elastic step, keeping excellent time
and creating mighty favorable Inn
preston of their marching qualities
and physique.
King George v, and the Prince OF
Wales, standing outside Buckingham
palace, reverently barred their heads
as the American National army troops
from Camp Gordon, Atlanta, Ga.
marched to the strains of "The Stal
and Stripes Forever" played by the
Grenadier Guards.
Wherever the doughboys passed
traffic was halted and every open space
was a sea of faces.
With the king and his heir were
Queen Mary and Princess Mary.
Only commissioned officers in tht
marching throng returned the king;
salute.
Colonel Whitman, General Perish
ing's quartermaster in Mexico, com
manded the parading troops, astride
coal-black horse.
The Scots Guard band, playing
tHello, New York." led the machine
gunners. Then followed the Irisf
Guards, playing my Old Kentuck!
Home" leading another contingent
and finally there were the Grenadiers
playing "Over There"
Six hated, frock-cOated civil
ians preceded the third battalion will
a banner bearing the words
"We Civil war veterans hail the
United States"
The drafted troops showed up we'll
carrying rifles at proper slope, eye:
straight ahead.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21

ment control started and which they
repeated before the commission. Their
demands had been for an average of
somewhat less than 40 per cent, and
Increases for them average less than
% per cent.
Some union leaders who anticipated
that the commissions recommended
tons would not he for as great
amounts as they had asked already
have appealed to Director General Nc
Adoo to amend the proposed scale TO
give them higher pay. Others, how
ever, virtually have agreed to accept
tho report
The wage advances, which range all
lne way from 81 to S34 a month. are
increases above the amount of pay
each employee was receiving on De-
cember 81. 1915. Employees who have
received advances since that date will
benefit now to the extent Of the differ
ence between their present wage and
that fixed by the wage commission.
The net cost of the additional pay
to the railroads is estimated al $780,
100000. This is exclusive of the esti-
mated deficit of SS00.000,000 in govern
ment operation of the railroads this
year, as a result of which Director
General McAdoo contemplates adj
vancing passenger rates at least pa
per cent and freight rates possibly as
much as 10 per cent.
Based on Living Cost.
The scheme of wage advances adopt
ed is based on an inquiry into the
cost Of living, which the commission
found has increased approximately 40
per cent to the average railroad en-
ployee receiving $50 month.
The commission favors a shorter
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21

uatiOn has been made by the simple
application of, supply and demand,
which is in turn now varied, affected.
and modified by those limitations aris-
ing out of the artificial but necessary
and historic methods of collective bar
gaining.
Nevertheless, there stands out one
dominating fact, recognized by rail-
road workers as well as by railroad
Otficials-that the lower grades of
railroad employment, those in which
the supply of labor has been less re-
stricted, and where organization has
been difficult, if not impossible, de-
serve wage increases out of proportion
to the increases for those in superior
grades.
An unprecedented call had come for
meE of certain trades in connection
with the new industries that had been
| created by the war in Europe, and this
long before our entry into the conflict.
! MachiniSts and iron workers of all
kinds found themselves to be essential
to the great munitioa plants and day
labor of the most unskilled character
rose into high demand.
Cut Off Those Not Needed.
! "The commission recommends that
during the period of government con-
duct of the railroads no salaries paid
to officials who are not essential to
the operation of the roads shall be
charged as part of the operating ex-
penseS.
There should be constituted a tri-
bunal or tribunals TO continue the
study of railroad labor problems, com
posed in part at least of men expert.
enced in this kind of work, for con.
ditions are ever changing"
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21

More Than 100000 Men Have Been
Called in the Draft or Are
Now in France.

Washington, May lahore than
/ 100000 men have been called in the
draft so far and either are in France,
in camp or under call to go into serv-
ice before June 1. The total of 1,3O0,-
600 includes all men summoned in the
May contingent. There is every indi-
cation that even a larger increment
will be summoned in June than was
summoned in May, and a progressive
monthly mob lization continue through
the summer and fall months as the
environments are expanded. 1t is ex-
pected that at such a rate the army
will reach a full strength of well over
100000 within the next twelve or
thirteen months. 1t is possible, some
officers say, that the number will be
closer to 100000 than 100000.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
GENERAL MAURICE is RETIRED
Army Council Gusts Accuser of Pre-
mier Lloyd George-Action Ends
Political Crisis.

London, May 14.-General Maurice,
former director of military operations,
has been retired by the army council,
it was officially announced.
The council considered Maurice's
explanation of the breach of regula-
tons he committed by writing and
causing publication of the letters ques-
tioning the veracity of Premier Lloyd
George and Chancellor of the Elk
chequer Bonar Law and decided he
should be placed at once on retired
pay.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
WILSON SETS MEMORIAL DAY
President Issues Proclamation and
Asks That Day Be Devoted to
Victory Prayers.

Washington, May 14.-National Me-
mortal day, which is Thursday, May
30, is designated by President Wilson
in proclamation issued Saturday as
and fasting. The people of the nation
are asked to gather that day in their
places of worship and pray for the vic
tory of the American armies which will
bring peace founded upon mercy,
Justice and good will.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21
Long Front Panel.

The long front panel Is featured in
many frocks-that is, panel in skirt
and bodice, which may or may not be
separated by belt or girdle of fabric
contrasting in color or material with
that of the rest of the frock. For in
stance, a figured foulard frock will
show a panel in both bodice and skirt
or satin in the color of the ground or
the figure in the foulard. A serge frock
viii have panel Of satin, georgette
frock win be paneled with tulle or lace.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1918-05-21

average workday, presumably eight
hours, but decided that in the war
emergency the nation could not afford
to put into effect reform that would
slow down the war machinery ana
discriminate against other classes OF
workers being called upon for great
sacrifices.
Rates of overtime pay are not dls-
turbed and the increases are adjusted
to the mileage basis of compensation
of some employees, road engineer,
for example, receiving an increase OF
liz per cent in his mileage rate. A
scheme of applying the increases 10
piece work and overtime therefor is
also provided.
An important feature of the report
was the recommendation that where
the same service is rendered the pay
shall be the same, without discrimina-
ton as to sex or race.
Report of Commission.
The report of the commission, con-
sisting of Franklin X. Lane, secretary
of the interior; Charles c. McChord,
]. Harry Covington, and William r..
Wilcox, is an exhaustive one. In part
the report says:
1.-The requests which have come to-
us for wage increases, would, If fully
granted, involve an additional outlay
in wages of somewhat over S1,0OO,OOO,-
600 per year in excess of the wage fund
of last year, which exceeded S2,OOU,
100000. Some asked for an increase
of 100 per cent in their pay, and from
this they graduated downward to ~
per cent. None were satisfied with
their present wages.
ITO classify the many hundreds OF
employments in which the 2,0O0OOO
railroad workers engage would be a
task calling for more time, skill, in
sight, and knowledge than we possess.
At the outset, it was seen that there
were grave inequalities in the rates of
wages paid. But who could say what
relationship each class of employees
should bear to the other? Abstractly,
why should an engineer receive $17O
per month and telegraph operator
500 per month?
'In the world of economics this sit