The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-10-06

Each in a different way, but all
for many years, the three places of
refreshment whose names appeared
in the newspapers yesterday. one Of
them as having closed its doors for
good, the others as being in financial
difficulties, have catered to New York
ers who liked good things to eat and
drink. Delmonico's may be saved;
surely 1t should be. The pastryman's
name has become synonymous with a
well spread table, with fine wines and
foods, wherever men give serious at
tention to the arts Of cooking and
serving. Moreover, the house as an
Institution IL too intimately associ-
ated with the history Of New York
for 1t to- perish. Its progress from
lower Manhattan to Fourteenth
street, to Twenty-sixth street, and to
its present site records the growth
Of the metropolis northward. Del
monico's never led this march; It
was not a rash innovator. But Its
proprietors were quick to sense the
changes business and fashion have
imposed on the commercial and resi-
Dental topography of New York, and
always succeeded In establishing
themselves near the hub Of things.
A roster of the patrons of this
public house, list of the societies
and committees that have met and
dined or lunched within Its walls,
record Of the receptions, the wed
ding feasts, the private entertain
ments that have engaged its hospi-
tally would be almost a history of
the town. Certainly no social or
political movement Of Importance has
survived without meeting. a con-
ference, at Delmonico's- Were those
deft servitors, who nNver seem to
have grown older. to unlock their ju-
dicious lips, their piecemeal contribu-
lions to the informal lore of New
York would elucidate many a mys-
terious occurrence and reveal the
hidden Influences Of many a grave
change for better or for worse in the
communiy's existence.
No man will ask for a list Of the
great who have spoken in the as
sembly halls Of this old metropoli-
tan institution. The roll would be too
long; the serried ranks of orators
of passing or enduring fame would
form an army even General FocH
would not blush to command; their
reverberating voices, Joined In one,
would shame the detonations that
marked the progress of the New Jer-
sey munitions disaster. And the de-
lightful tete-a-tetes Of less famous
folk in the quiet rooms of this dig
nlfied establishment that are treas
ured In the memories Of thousands
of Americans, some Of whom visited
1t not more than once, perhaps as
an incident of honeymooning in New
York. must be a mine of pleasure In
many scattered homes.
In Sweets a different, but not less
discriminating. clientele for genera
tions found food to their liking, ser
vice Of the best, companionship Of
high and unfailing interest. Thither
went men of the sea, and those who
with them deal. and those whose pal
ates had been educated to the fine
distinction of the splendid food fish
too many Of US neglect From the
remote parts Of the earth, over the
endless waters, urged on by tickle
breeze, they sped to the hospltable
berth in South street. whose caterers
drew on the unlimited resources of
the great fish market across the way
for the best and freshest of supplies,
and whose simple customs were I'M
affected by the advance of more So