Evening star., 1918-01-27
N ANNIE H1rTENHousE.

- TANDARDCZAT1ON OF mons oFess
has already become more than q
-. mere tentative suggestion. New
~ York papers carried the story OF
suersstsd regulations in mems attire
on the front page few weeks ago
along with the war news. the coal short.
sra. the thirteen -below-zero tempera-
turs and other striking happenings OF
day and genration in which exciting
events have become almost common
place.
Tho Importance Of the further sugges-
tiona smanating from the economy
board, was Immediately recognised. and.
with front page space at q premium. ~
It Is today, the story was deemed OF
sufficient moment to be given place Oh
honor. There was nothing extremely
radical in tho ideas advanced. They IN
ciuded some Of the suggestions already
made at the now historic meeting OF
dressmakers, manufacturers, retailers;
fashion writer's, editors and others. helo
in November to discuss the adoption OF
the slim Silhouette, with view to limit
ing the consumption OF wool
4 X
Ono Of the speakers at that meeting
drew attention to the fact that though
there was not a man in the room who
was wearing what might be called
conspicuous or individual style of cloth
in his clothes. yet there were in all
probability not two suits in the room OF
exactly the same pattern. Among twen-
ty men In blue serge. each Will nave .
suit made from a different weave and
dye. This is waste of enort ana ma
terial which might be remedied: and
suggestion for limiting patterns OF con-
servative materials for mems wear were
made in the interest Of wartime
economy. Tho same ideas have been ap-
piled to the manufacture OF stuns Tor
mems shirts, and even to their shoes
end neektiea Results ot impfessiye ~.
allies and to our own fighting men are
promised II these reforms are carried
Into effect.
So far. no sueh Propos;sion has h.. been been
which deal with the dressing Of women.
In fact, the pressure Of opinion has been
very definitely against Standardization OF
feminine attire in any form. In the bel
hgerent countries. which. after all. are
our best and only really practical guides
in this matter. attempts OF the kind
have been limited. so far. to control, in
France, of the manufacture OF shoes.
The government, in order. 1t is said, to
secure enough leather for the shoeing OF
q nation, took over their manufacture. set
standard patterns for men, women and
children, which were to contain leather of
stated quality and stated quantity. and
which sold at prices ranging from some
where about $6 for men. to something like
81 or $3.50 for children Other varieties OF
shoes continue, however, to be made,
sold and worn, but this parental regu-
lation guaranteed real leather, well
made shoe of good wearing quality. at a
reasonable price to those who chose to
buy 1t.
As far as other branches Of women's
dress are concerned the consensus OF
opinion in all countries seems to be
hands or" The industry reminds one
Of those insidious grasses, which. once
where under the ground, m1ngling with
every other plant that grows. twining
its tendrils about their roots, SO that to
uproot 1t means to kill the thing Il
cling to as we'll. Not that the spread Of
this Industry has had de1eterious effect
upon others existing alongside of It: the
contrary Is the truth. But their inter-
dependence Is SO complicated. and SO
cunningly intwined that the effect Of
one Is q problem before which the best
brains in the country may we'll pause
before they begin to experiment with
their theories.
Governments Interference in the
clothing Of their people is not new. We
read Of sumptuary laws all through
the middle ages, and Of the defiance Of
them by the wives and daughters of the
burghers, who could not prevent their
womenfolk from adopting materials.
furs and velvets reserved by royal de-
cree for the aristocracy. As soon as a
fifteenth century merchant Of Florence
Tor example, began to make money he