davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01
w IITH that wonderful adapta-
w bility for which Dame Fashion

w bility for which Dame Fashion
u remarkable, she has evolved
notaiooe the hustle dress but the hustle
haG since no one" thinks of holding
thae jady to strict account for the
terms he uses, We will accept the idea
aad appreciate the smartness Of the
dapsd and pulled up material without
cav1. but If we were inclined to be
csirical ve might wonder, "How can
q bustie appear upon a hat" As
matter Of fact, the whole title is
little bit of q misnomer as applied
% the fashion Of today. What is
being exploited under the name Of the
hustle Is really very pretty drapery.
Vhot the dictionary knows as hustle
and what a few who are willing to
remember those that were worn in the
last century, regard as hustle is a
cage4ike arrangement that extends
below the waist line. The beautiful
materials we are wearing today, draped
as in the new gowns scarcely answer
that description but they give hustle
suggestion, but if they are prettier or
more graceful, if they really are our
own and belong to the century, so much
more credit is due.
There are very good examples shown
in the illustration above. The pretty
costume that is made with the Russian
blouse is adapted to street wear or to
simple occasions, and to serge and to
broadcloth and to light weight velours
cloth and to fabrics of such sort. The
very smart afternoon costume made OF
satin and an elaborate brocade gives
an entirely different effect, yet the same
skirt is utilized for both. In that after
noon costume there are other features
that are especially worthy of note, too.
There is the kimono sleeve in the bodice
that is an important revival and there
= the pretty little surplice vestee that
b to be found in the very best designs.
The collar is extended to form straight
over-portion at the front which is
notable feature, and you can make the
sleeves in full length with cuffs or in
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

skirt is in just two pieces, and the
tunic is straight gathered one while
the little jumper is arranged over
plain blouse. If you have a plain
satin dress of last season and you want
to remodel it, use it for the skirt and
under-bodice and make the jumper and
tunic of chiffon or of Georgette crepe
or Of silk wolfe or of some such material
and braid with the soutache just as it
is here, but for such thin material be
sure that you haste over paper and do
the work through both.
The top coat makes very good ex-
ample of what is new and smart in that
garment. 1t has one of the collars that
can be worn in muffler style or rolled
open as the day requires, and the pretty
belt, pockets and cuffs lift it quite out
of the commonplace, yet it is very
simple garment to make. Velours
cloth and broadcloth and bolivia cloth
and such fabrics are much liked and
make very handsome garments. You
can, of course, make the collar OF fur,
but great many women find fur collars
over heating and this soft one of the
material is very generally becoming and
in every way attractive and service
able. There are more sumptuous coats,
Of course, there are coats of fur and Of
the new fur cloths and there are coats
of velvet. but there is nothing that
gives more genuine service than the
bolivia or velours cloths and there is
nothing that is more satisfactory from
the standpoint of general usefulness.
For the coat of motoring or of travel
or of general hard service, cheviot is
good and there are some very smart
and attractive cheviots in mixed colors
that have the cravenette or shower
proof finish that are especially desirable
for such use. Touches of fur, of course
greatly enhance their attractiveness.
and if you do not want an entire collar
of fur, you can edge the collar and the
cuffs with fur. Such loose coat as
this one can be put to great many
uses.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

4 PARTICULARLY interesting
~ feature and noteworthy feature
of fashion as revealed in the latest
designs is to be found in the way velvet
is being used to supplement the inevi-
table shortage of fur. At a first glance,
one thinks fur cannot be short, for it is
shown in many instances used not alone
generously but lavishly, but little
calmer consideration and further inves-
tigation goes to show that these are
the first exploited models, that they
cannot be kept up for the greater num-
Der Of wearers, for in one way or an
other we must substitute either trim
mings or materials, for some uses at
least. 1.
Fascinating little sets that are
adapted to afternoon wear, to the
theatre and to the restaurant costume,
and to all occasions Of such sort, are
made Of velvet, some with fur trim
ming, some without. A very beautiful
one that comes from the house Of Callot
shows muf and scarf of very wonder
full brown chiffon velvet with lining OF
brilliant orange. The scarf is modi-
fcation of the long, straight one of
Directoire influence and shows little
drapery at the back that is charmingly
graceful and becoming. The muff is
Of moderate size covered with wonder
full drapery arranged overa plain foun-
dation, this drapery being knotted in
a way to allow generous glimpses OF the
brilliant lining. 1t is designed to be
worn with a gown of brown chiffon
velvet, but one could think of it copied
, in a variety of colors and the idea
utilized to be adapted to great many
needs and occasions. Just the straight,
simple scarf can be made most attrac-
tive if the color is we'll chosen and the
lining makes piquant contrast. and
you can use the small barrel muff for
a plain cover or for draped cover, or
many women will be clever enough to
arrange individual draperies that make
the design their own. Soft satins are
being generally used for lining, but
for these fancy sets chiffon Is pretty,
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

and sometimes a lining of chiffon with
little frills of the same is becoming and
can be utilized with rare success. A
pretty set that is charming consists Of
a close fitting cape somewhat on the
order Of the coachman's with a barrel
muf that is made Of taupe colored
velvet and is trimmed with bands OF
flying squirrel that seems to har-
monte with it to nicely. We are
doing without so many things one
wonders sometimes if velvet, too, will
fall short of the supply, but from
present indications there is a generous
quantity on hand. These sets are very
pretty and they can, indeed. be rem
dered distinctive. They are 50 much
more worthy Of the gentlewonlan than
cheap fur that there can be no COM
parison made. To be sure we have
furs Of a great many sorts today that
cannot be dubbed cheap because fur
riers are so slever, they dye and treat
inferior skins to give really beautiful
result, and when fashions change as
rapidly as they do in these days. it is
not always the part of wisdom to buy
a costly set, while there is also some
thing of a tendency among women who
can afford the luxury to have scarfs
and muffs to match the various cos
tunes, 80 that we may use fur Of lesser
sorts without reproach, but there is a
line that must not be crossed and there
are great many furs exploited that
are far from beautiful, the wearing Of
which fail utterly in imparting any dis
tinctive or attractive effect. They
really should be reserved for Innings
and for the simple, prosaic, useful pur-
poses Of the sort. Marabout and
Ostrich both are being utilized to make
attractive capes, too, and some of the
offerings are most attractive.
Wonderful things are done with rib
bons as well as with velvet. We have
some fascinating sets offered consisting
of hats and scarfs and knitting bags
that are made, some Of elaborate ma
terial to be suitable for afternoon wear.
some of simpler materials to FAeAaaA1
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

squirrel that Is really distinctive ani
it is charming worn over either . blael
or 4 white satin skirt. The tunic = 4
very simple one. full and gathered,
slightly longer at the front than ct
the back and Joined to bodice with
plain, long close fitting sleeves that
makes one of the distinctive features
of the season. The tunic is edged with
a narrow band of the fur and bands
are placed over the arm-hole seams to-
intensity the slim, narrow effect that IS
demanded by La Mode. There is q
moderately low neck with a pretty
little collar Of chiffon that matches the
fur in color, and the buttons that
effect the closing are covered with the
material. There is wide draped girdle
that conceals the joining Of the bodlps
and tunic. That same garment worn
over black skirt would give the 49,
of a different costume and with
white skirt could be utilized as tunic
of chiffon or Of Ceorgette in an entirely
different color to give no hint what
soever of conservation or of economy
There are great many attractive de-
signs for the tunic. A new one and
charming one is made with bodice
that is a little longer on one side than
on the other, close fitting in way but
with little fullness under the arms
that relieves it of over severity, and
extending trile below the waist lima
where it is joined to the full tunic that
falls in most becoming points, and car
ries out the idea Of one shorter, one
longer side. That tunic could be
treated just after the manner just de-
scribed to be really fascinating, and It
also is often to great many other
trimmings and treatments. 1t b one
of the models that is charming In velvet
and equally good in satin and which
also can be utilized for the simple gown
of serge. A black satin worn over
serge skirt makes useful gown. That
same tunic worn over velvet sktTt
makes a handsome gown. The hinG1
worth needing.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

to simpler occasions, but they all give
evidences Of how general knitting has
become and how clever designers are
in utilizing the fact. The bag, from
being prosaic, useful object, has been
converted into thing of rare beauty.
1t seems doubtful If we shall ever be
willing to give it up. 1t is offered in
velvet with rich embroideries and it is
offered in the softest silks, it Is made
from the most sumptuous ribbons that
it really becomes notable adjunct to
the toilet. Undoubtedly, If the demand
for knitting continues, women, with
their marvellous adaptability, will learn
to utilize it with as piquant coquetry
as does the Spanish women her fan. We
knit upon all occasions, Wherever there
is q moments leisure. 1t is not at all
improbable that we shall see knitting
between the acts Of the opera, and, as
matter Of course, suitable bags must
be supplied. 1t is to be hoped. how
ever, that the opera will see only the
khaki and the grey. The knitting of
the brighter, more vivid colors that
seem to suggest self use is hardly in
keeping with the feeling of the times,
and lays the knitter open to the impu-
tation of faddism rather than Of the
desire to utilize every spare moment
for the good Of those for whom we
cannot do too much and no sacrifice
can be too great.
The tunic is constantly taking new
forms and the tunic idea is being put
to a number of uses. There are so
many colors or tones that are worn
over black or over white that a narrow
skirt Of black and one Of white becomes
a very valuable part Of the wardrobe.
It Is a fortunate fact that this season
when economy is forced into almost
every home, that such conditions exist
and that fashion has lent herself.
whether Willingly or unwittingly to the
general retrenchment without the lack
which usually results from such effort.
A very charming costume met today
shows tunic Of black chiffon velvet
with . simple Little trimming a gey
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1918-01-01

]. |
es
|s5
5s!,s
>
mum
IN 4 age |
1Hgen
Isee,te17
sssco1
ing
"a !. a
'sss the
as the
Is the
"A beaa
ksna1
tune
! s'S2 Y
|tIfolid
alymnaNs
.sgttn3ge.I
s@StElst
.stmmorrl
skEng
Fous1|
AIS Q
sEQen0
lI!sa!!ss,9
a. las A
ItIcon
;sslIcon
s,D
ssH
isSsf II
men |
ed u
as'a.nn..n.1
.E Ifs;:s::.
sf3fnno'V
5fgelstq
ISf5tso. |
Aklnfa
Tan9
siss.rop
Is3 ,.red |
1--we
f'PANC
l#aannou.|
va.
III
c |
slat i
nigh |
md
lsss
Rltorr.
lsInaootr
.fsllSli
EE.o,Mn]
sslsmasJ
4sSs.c.tp,
-
I9g,.o...]
WA
80 G..
III 1srert
ssss#1ok
HEscoml
mini
Egshe
Is5zgphe
.sthe |
Sorga
shoar
,,.8!slwhid
the
;Ssagai
Use
s5whe1
lists.
Bure
cited
lssnon-l
tits
{ ssmen
Tasks
sgand
lss n
s J..
asenti|
paid
sSasof III
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
DUTCH ARE OFFERING HIGH
PRICES FOR GOLD MONEY
Papers Warn Public Against Ger
man and Austrian Efforts to Get
Metal Through Smuggling.

CableEram to The Sunday Star and the
Chicago Daily News. Copyright, 1913.
THE HAGUE. Holland. May 3.-Many
Dutch newspapers have advertisements
offering high prices for gold money. Tho
weekly paper. Import and Export. warns
its readers against giving UP their gold.
because 1t is all smuggled into Germany
and Austria. Austria pays higher prices
for gold than Germany. and Turkey
gives more for the metal than Austria.
In Turkey traders and shopkeepers re-
fuse to accept the deprecated paper
money Of Germany. The want Of gold
is most felt in the occupied districts Of
Russia, where gold only is accepted in
payment.
There are many advertisements in the
Dutch papers for false gold teeth or
teeth filled with gold or platinum. The
highest prices are paid for platinum
filings. Agents travel hither and
thither and buy up old sets Of teeth.
Germany has stopped sending coal to
Holland. and Holland has stopped CIV
ing credit to Germany by taking treas
ury notes in payment for commodities
instead of gold.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
FEVER BUY 0RQUT CASES
Daily Reports to Housing and
Health Division Dwindle-Com-
plants Well Handled.

From 100 cases Of buy or quit that have
been reported daily to the housing and
health division Of the War Department
since publicity was given to the move
mont, tbs number had dwindled to fifteen
ct noon yesterday. In all. 1t was stated.
probably between 100 and 1900 COM
plants have been made to the division by
persons threatened with eviction unless
they buy the property they now rent.
In every case which the division han
died privately. 1t was declared, mot one
has been lost''-that is to say. the land
lord or the agent receded from the propo-
sition and Cancelled the notice. Against
the fifteen complaints yesterday there
were fifty tho preceding day and from Is
to 100 the two days before.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
SECRETARY LANE URGES
OIL LAND LEASE BILL
Measure to Be Considered at Special
Meeting of House Committee
Tomorrow.

In response to an urgent letter from
Secretary Lane urging immediate.
passage of the oil land leasing bill as
-. imperative war necessity to pre-
vent the stoppage through lack Of fuel
Pacific coast. special meeting OF tho
House committee on public lands has
been called for tomorrow.
This committee has been split over
the remedial legislation proposed In
this bill for those who have claims on
the government reserves. The pros
pect is that they will reach an agree
bill, probably providing that leases
may be given for the operation OF ex-
listing wells. with authority vested In
President Wilson to authorize the OPEN
Ing up of other wells if in his opinion
the national emergency requires this.
Threat of Communicating.
Threats by Mark L. Requa, federal
fuel oil administrator. and by Bernard
N. Baruch, chairman of the war indus
tries committee, that the California oil
properties would be Communicated II
creased to more nearly meet the i'm
mediate demands, has helped to hurry
up an agreement on the bill. The oil
operators and their friends in Con-
8IcSS, HO"eNcT, pTOtcSl lhdS ILLS
threat had nothing to do with it. They
say the operators would be quite will
ing to have the government take over
the properties if the government can
get more production than they are.
Secretary Daniels Statement.
Secretary Daniels statement to the
Pacific coast newspaper men who called
upon him last week that il found nec-
essary he would be willing to allow
some new wells to be sunk in the great
naval reserve No. 2, indicating for the
hrst time a Willingness to allow de-
velopment in this 32.000-acre tract, also
has had a strong influence.
A delegation of eleven of the biggest
oil men in California will reach Wash
ington today, after having raced across
the continent to get a hearing before
the committee finally passes upon the
bill and drafts its report to Congress.
These men come from a conference Of
the Pacific coast oil interests
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05

from all Washington theaters will as
sist him. These will include Frances
Starr, the Howard brothers. Tom Lewis.
Alfred Browning, Claude Gillingwater.
Lester Lonergan, Helen Menken, Bessie
Mccoy Davis and others.
Box Reserved for President Wilson.
Following this sale the seats will be
put on sale at the National Theater.
The auction will include all boxes ex-
cept that reserved for President Wilson
and orchestra seats.
One feature Of the performance which
will appeal to lovers Of music will be
the singing Of the national anthem by
Nine. Eleanora De Cisneros, noted
grand opera star.
1t Is said that the play "Out There"
seen in London for two years and in
New York. might have been written for
the Red Cross. so apt Is its application
to the work Of that organization.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
TO GIVE FOOD SHOWER.
Methodists to Celebrate Anniversary
Wednesday at Home for AGED.

A committee composed Of two men and
two women from each Methodist church
in the city Is planning an anniversary
tea and food shower to DO held at the
Methodist Homo for the Aged. 9Th and
M streets northwest. from until
o'clock on Wednesday.
Those assigned to work with the newly
elected president, Mrs. May Behrens. are
the secretaries and managers from each
church, together with Mrs. Fred 8. Cav
son, chairman Of the women's commit
tee, and Charles Bohannan, chairman Of
the mems committee.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
CALLS A CONFERENCE.
Virginia Governor Would Protect
Health and Morals at Camps.

RICHMOND. Va, May Gov. Davis
has issued an invitation to the local Of
Aeers charged with law enforcement
In the camp communities to meet with
him and leading state and federal Off
Gals at Richmond May 9 to consider
ways and means of better protecting
the health and morals of soldiers ard
sailors now in training IN Virginia.
More than two hundred officia1s have
been invited to attend. including the
ranking Army and Navy officers sta
toned in this state.
The governor said today he hoped
every official invited would attend this
conference, as it was in the interest
Of a patriotic service that Virginia
should make every effort properly to
DArfOrm.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
MILITARY BAND COMING.
French Government to Send Picked
Men to United States.

PARIS, May 4.-The French govern
ment is about to send to the United
States a military band Of carefully
picked men under the leadership Of
Gabriel Pares. former bandmaster Of
the Republican Guard Of Paris. Thirty
Of the hand members are first prize
men Of the Paris conservatoire and
four have been similarly honored by
the conservatory at Rome. In addi-
ton to the ordinary repertoire Of brass
bands. the organization will be able to
play orchestral music.
Among the bandsmen are number
of fine violinists and cellists and an
excellent pianist, who give concerts of
modern French and classical chamber
music.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
TO PROMOTE ORE PRODUCTION.
Senate Committee Considering Bill
for Stimulating D. S. Industry.

Efforts of the government to regulate
the importation of pyrites, manganese
and other ores needed in the manufac-
turing of war materials to conserve
cargo space, were described yesterday
before the Senate mines committee,
which is considering the bill to slim
ulate domestic production of ores.
c. K. Leith of the shipping board
said the importation of pyrites from
Spain had been reduced and that ship
ments of Manganese from Brazil had
been cut 40 per cent He opposed any
effort to fix ore prices and said the
law of supply and demand should be
permitted to continue in operation.
Philip H. Moore of St. Louis, former
president of the American Institute of
Mining Engineers, Endorsed the bill.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
Y. v. c. A. COUNCIL
TO DISCUSS WAR WORK
Sessions at Warrington on Tuesday
to Be Attended by Women Of
National Prominence.

War work which is being done by
the Young women's Christian Asso-
citation throughout the United States Is
to be discussed at q meeting Of the
national war work council of the or
ganixation, to be hold in Washington
Tuesday. Two sessions will be held,
one beginning at 1890 am, the other
at 2:15 o'clock in the afternoon. Both
assemblies will be in the Elisabeth
Somers' branch Of the Washington Y.
w. c. A.. 18th and NJ streets northwest.
Women Of national prominence are
to be present. While conditions brought
about by the war throughout the coun-
try will be discussed, Washington will
probably receive the greater part Of the
attention because OF the thousands OF
woman war workers who have come to
the National Capital to assist the gov
eminent in its prosecution Of the war.
To Consider Housing Questions.
Housing questions will be considered.
both as affecting conditions in the Dis
trict of Columbia and along national
lines. Mrs John d. Rockefeller, jr., is
to deliver an address outlining the gen-
eral policy Of the housing committee,
Of which she Is chairman. Miss Mary
Sims is to take up the proposition from
the angle. Specific Needs Met"
of view of the Y. w. C. A. are to be
discussed by Miss Florence M. Brown,
general secretary of the local associa-
ton. Her subject Is to be, What
Washington Has Had to Face-The As
sociation's Share"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
MANY STARS TO AID
RED CROSS BENEFIT
HeadIiners to Present "0ut
There" at National Thea
ter May Is.
TNYl

New stars have been added to the
galaxy of players who will be seen in
the unique production Of Out There"
to be given at the National Theater
May 10, the entire proceeds of which
will be donated to the District of Co.
lumbia chapter of the American Ma
tional Red Cross.
The cast now includes an array Of
theatrical headliners such as have sell
dom been assembled in one play in this
country. They are George Arliss. Julia
Arthur, James T. Powers, George sMac-
Farlane. Laurette Taylor, George NJ.
Cohan. James K. Hackett, Beryl Mercer.
w. B. Warner. Mrs. Fiske, o. P. Heggie,
Burr Mcintosh and Chauncey Olcott.
Manager W. H. Rapley of the National
Theater not only has donated the use
of the theater, but has personally pro-
vided the orchestra and attendants, and
arranged for the transportation of scenery
and all other incidentals. Every cent
paid for seats to this production will go
to the Red Cross.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05

It matters little what 1t Is that you
want-whether a situation or a servant
want ad In The Star will reach the
person who will fill your need.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-05-05
Tour of Country Planned.

The premiere in Washington will in
augurate a three-week tour arranged
by Klaw & Erlanger and George c..
Tyler of the j. Hartley Manners play,
and the proceeds of all appearances,
like that in Washington. will be turned
over to the Red Cross.
The tour is a part Of the contribution
Of the theatrical world to the national
campaign. May 20 to 81 for the hun
dred-million- dollar fund for the Red
Cross.
A unique feature Of the arrangements
includes the auction sale of seats at the
National Theater tomorrow afternoon
at 4 o'clock. Charles Henry Butler will
be the auctioneer, and theatrical stars