davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
@aIoeSrami1e,t, @ol5:
bret, 3eitnn8Sbldtter.

9as meiite Yapier miro beute aus
9ol5brei bergeiteut. 9as 8eitungspa-
pier fommt ausibliebli6 aus iol@en
Guelen, uno ser 8ldttertpalb Der
3eitl1ngen fal,n EFF rauiden, nod
Sem sic Sen @ol5brei liefernoen 9au=
ME ibr &ouiden eingelteQt baben. ga
nun Elm Baum nidt 10 i6neu ma9lt,
mie CT in Jorm bon 3eitnngspapier
iiber Die Yreiie la11ft, 10 lit eS no.
tiirli6 oab iib 0ie1rage aufgeorangt
bot, pie e oenn betreffs Ser fiinfti=
gen B%eriorgung ser @reiie nit ibrem
&obitoff beidaffen lit. IS gibt 10 bic
lc Dinge, sic li6 ereignen, nn6 nod
piel mebr Dinge, sic iid ni6t ereig=
men, 6uB Sen 3eitungsi6reibern ibr
@obltoff ME ausgeben fam. Mber oos
4apier, oos %ge6uloige Hapier, 6aS
muB beidafft per6en.
Sir sic @ereinigten Staaten iino
sic einbeimii6en Nuelen fir &ol5=
bret bereits itarf erid0pft, oenn Ste
@Gl6er baben fir sic mabienoe Be-
r%0lferung HIot MAIDEN miilien, iin6
oft oud) lebigli6 Ser Erofitgier ouf=
geopfert moroen. Mber nnier noroli=
6er No9bar Canada bat nod rieiige
Molien bon @ol5bei tan6en, Sic fir
Die MISREPRESENTATION in 8etra9t
fon1men. ginige 2eute nenten 6iele
@orrqte uneri90pfli9> aber nit oie<
fem @orte lit bon ieber .geraoe Bel
Ser 8emeiiung unierer notirli9en
Meidtumsqueaen piel MiBbrau@ ge=
trieben mor6en. Se0enfous aber fann
man ipobl 1agen, 6aB @anaoas Sol5=
breiqueuen bel berninftiger 8elpirt=
l9aftung ouf LANCE lange 3et BIN
GUS ergiebig fem tper6en. Wenn man
sic 3ablen 1iebt, sic iiber 6as Sbema
per0ffenhi9t tper6en, ieben sic &ol5=
BEL tGn6e nit ibrem idbrli6en gu
muds in ser Tot unerid0pfli6 aus,
aber es borf ni6t pergelien meroen,
boB sic 3nnobme I'M 8erbran9 6es
3eitungspapieres au6 iebr groB 1T.
Ser iqbrIi9e3utpa6s ser canaotihen
@4loer miro auf 2,145,O00>0O0 Sui
biffuB gei6abt, tpabren6 ser iabr1i=
DIE @%erbraudl Ser aus Canada be5o=
gen miro, ii6 ouf 537,000,000 &u=
biffuB belduft. &offentlib 1tt1nmen
biele 3ablen, iomeit Der groBe neber=
1duB in Betradt fommt, Den 6ie
grun6giitige Wutter Natur nod int
mer iiber Sen rieiigen 8erbrau6 Der
gefraBigen Breiien binaus liefern
fann.
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
Nor6 9afpta.

8ism ar #. - &o1al6, Der o6t
Sabre olte Sobn bon 6. so. Seer
tpuroe BON Dem 3ebn Sabre 5ablen=
Sen @alter 8opo 6lerb 3ufaa init
elmer 9ii6ie ourd Sen SAILS ge1bo1=
len unb i9mer b%ertpunoet.
9ifinon.- IS. Mr6anlbnult,
ser friiber gu Sen bieligen 8urgern
oGblte, idreibt, oab er iebt IN Sand
6a in Sen 59iffsbaubofen arbeltet
uno $50 Sen Sag peroient.
6beI0on. - Gin gilbert Sdu=
NADER bon bier geboriger @etreioe=
leparotor lit bein1 0reiben auf Ell
ner 6arm bel 2isbon erplooiert. ytan
glaubt, 6aB it6 in einem @etretoe=
biin6el 0Dnomit bel unoen babe. 9er
Shooen lit ouf $4,000 ongere@net.
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03

tel gebiloet batten, fir Die lo5ialiiti-
I6en &anbi0aten Elm, neil oieie, i'm
@egeniab gu oen 2iberalen, ii6 our
Nerbdltnismabl betannten nno Die
@erfaiiungsfammer eigentlid nit
anoeren Jragen iid nibt 81 befaiien
bat.
Ser Musgang Ser 8ablen &oupt,
unb 5tidNpablen, tpar %folgen6er: SIZE
&edtspartet perlor 3mei Sibe un6
gemann 5mei. Sic bebielt alio lire
bisberigen % Sibe; 5mei peitere
Witglieoer Ger neuen &ammer, Die
big Dor fur5em our Medtspartei &C.
b0rten, traten als unabbangige GO
5ialiiten auf. Die So5ialiiten getpan=
men iieben Man6ate bon 6en 2ibera=
len 5aiblen nunmebr IL. 9ie 2ibera=
len perloren iieben Sibe an bie 60
5ioliiten, orei an oie &e9tspartei, Tie
getpannen 5mei bon ser &e6tspartei.
SIR @efamtberluit betrdgt olio 5ebn,
tie febren nit nur elf Mbgeor6neten
in sic neue &ammer 5urud. Die
Treie 8olfsportei en6li6, pelde crit
Bel Den @ablen 6eS lebten Sabres
GUS bret Mann gebil6et muroe un6
cine our &e6tspartei binneigen6e
Nrbeiterpartei lit, getpann 5mei Man=
oate; ite 5ablt I'M gan3en flint.
Sn Ser neuen 8erfaiiungsfammer
hat alio feline Bartei Die obiolute, ge-
idpeige 6enn 6ie gum 3ultonoefom=
men elmer &ebiiton 0er8erfollung er=
ioroerli6e OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES. Mus
eigener &rafts ausi6laggebeno in Dem
Gimme 6aB obne lie feline &ebilton ge=
ma6t tper6en fann> lit nur 6ie&e6ts=
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
Sin 9afota.

.-@in 8erfauf bon frliz
berem 5iour : S~n0ianerlano IN 9D=
mon&ountD lit am 9ienStag in He=
berein1timmung nit oiesbe5ugli9en
0eii ungen 6es Departements oes
Snnern gebalten moroen. &ein Mnge=
bot unter $1.25 fir Den Mder tpnr>
Sc gem1odt uno sic @%runoltiide lpur=
Cen nift biuiger, als ibr tatla9lider
@ert ii, berfauft. = Sic @eieQi6oft
omerifonii9er Sn6ianer, ote ibren
%iiebenten Sabresfonbent bier om
Somstag gum Mbi6luB bro9te, nabm
sic @abl ser 8eamten nit Or. Clos.
Galtmon DO nMmber1t als Braltoent
Dor.
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03

ielblt Nebenidaft iiber ibre Musga-
ben ablegt. 9abei permag lie al ut1=
terideioen, 1pas notmenoig lit, nno
3pedloies aus3uid)alten Nnr out
oteie 8eiie gelanet Tie oa3n, in ibrem
&reiie oie getrere Mitarbeiterin oes
Wannes 5u peroen, an leinem Stre=
ben teil5unebmen. llnpeientli6 mag
immerbin Sic 8ubfiibrung I'M Sous
balt eribeinen - lie lit ieoo6 oas
bette @r5iebmagsmittel, elne unber'
glei6lide @ilfe CUR @r5ielung bon
8ebagen nro 6rieoen. Sic fleine
Mibe oes Mufibreibens finoet rel
den 2obn in ii6 ielbit uno miro
i6lieblih our lieben @etpobnbeit.
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
Order of Hearing On Petition to Con-
yey Lands on Contract

Order of Hearing on Petition to Con-
vey Lands on Contract
State of Minnesota, County OF Stearns
In Probate Court, Special Term,
Sept 18th, 1913.
In the Matter Of the Estate Of Jacob
Loeb, Deceased.
on reading and filing the petition OF
Joseph G. Loeb, claiming to be en-
titled to a conveyance of certain real
estate from the representative OF SAID
estate, setting forth that Jacob Loeb,
deceased. was bound by a contract In
writing to convey said real estate to
the said Joseph G. Loeb, upon the
terms and conditions therein stated,
with a description Of the land to be
conveyed, and the facts upon which
such claim to conveyance Is predicat-
ed, and praying that the Probate
Court make a decree authorizing and
directing the said. representative, to
convey such real estate to said pet1-
toner as the person entitled thereto.
It Is therefore ordered, That all per-
sons interested in said estate may
appear before this Court, at a special
term thereof to be held on
FRIDAY, THE 18th DAY OF
OCTOBER, A. D. 1918,
at nine o'clock in the forenoon, at the
Probate Office in the Court House in
the City of st. Cloud, in said County,
and oppose said petition.
And it is further ordered, That this
order shall be published once in each
week for three successive weeks prior
to said day of hearing in the Der
Nordstern", a weekly newspaper
printed and published at the City of
st. Cloud in said County.
Dated at st. Cloud, Mimi, the 18th
day of September, A. D. 1918.
BY the Court,
A, H. KLASEN, J. B. HIMSL,
Atty. for petitioner Judge Of Probate
(Seal) 45-
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
Sic ~&ntembmr9er &be
ralem ais @e9ner oer
@ablreform.

SIM 2an6e 2uremburg fan6en ur=
ldnglt Die @nblen itatt. SSm 8or6er=
grun6 6es @ablfampfes itano 6ie
6rage UNI sic @ablreform. Inter
bent @influfie oes acknowledgement
ltes 6es lebten Sabr5ebnts batte 1t9
insbeion6ere 6ie Notmenoigfeit ber=
ausgelteut, oas @olf in meiterem
MaBe ols bisber an Ser @e1ebgebnng
bes 9an6es teilnebmen gu lailen.
Die He6tspartei fibrte 6en Wabl=
fampf nit elmer 6oppelten Mbii4t: l..
Sic moute in sic fommen6e &ammer
cine g%eniigen0e Mn3abl bon Mannern
bineinbringen, pel9e fir 6as auge=
meme @timmre9t nit @erbdltnis=
mabl fdmpfen miir6en; 2. Tie molte
aus oerielben m0gli6it oQe 6ieieni=
gen Deputierten fernbalten, mef6e
cine @efobr fir 6os augemeine
Stimmredt iiberbaupt fem fonnten,
o6er sic iofortige @infiibrung 6esiel=
ben 6urd unongebradte reip. gefabr=
li6e 3uiabantrage b%erbinoern fonn=
ten.
Bon Sen @arteien, tpelde iid CUR
@abI iteuten, nabm ar6 iebt nod Die
liberole Hartei oqein einen ableb=
nen6en, ia fein6Ii6en Stan6punft
Elm; ite ipro@ iib ni6t fir Die Ser
baltniStpabl aus, ga Tie lire biSberi=
ge @ormadtlteaung onideineno ni9t
aufgeben moIte; ite moate iiberotes
6ur9 ge1niiie &ebiftonsantrage Die
&edte Ser @roBber5ogin i6malern.
@egen lebtere ri6tet iib befanntli6
felt Sabr ibr miiten6er &f, neil
Die &erriderin Dor 6rei Sabren eS
getpagt fat, gegen ltberale Sprannet
sic &e6te Der &rone nn6 6es BolfeS
5u i6iiben.
Ser 8oblfampf NOR iebr erbit=
teri; I'M 9anfe 6esielben trot oie
&e9tspartei int ir6nitrielen SM6fa1=
ton oes 2an6es, no feline ser Bartei=
en- aus ii6 iber cine Waioritdt I'M
@dblerforps berfiigt nn0 no biSber
Die liberale un6 io5ialiitii6e Bartei
einen 8ablblod gegen sic &edtspar=
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03
Sic 8n@fnbrmn9 tn
&auSbaIt.

uSOtI ItuJI lWICtOI' ~ "'uJ|
bleibt!" lagt zines ser fernigen oent=
i6en @pribm0rter uno es entbalt,
lpie lie ale, cine tiefe @eiSbeit, sic
auf jeoe 9ebenslage Mn%tpen6ung fin
oct. 8u9fiibrung bilft mirti6often-
6os beoarf feiner @rorternng, nno
iorgfdltig oufidreiben erlet6tert nno
pereinfoft oen 8etrieb oes Sous
boltes gan5 meientli6 = 5u oieler
@rfenntnis gelangt oumablid ieoe
@ousfrau, mie nnfrob Tie ou6 an:
fongs lid) ser Miibe 6es Mnfi6rei=
hens unter3og. Sen Wert hires Sous
baltes lernt tie am belten 1elblt i6a=
ZEN, menn oas MuSgabebn6 ibr nod
uno no6 gum Modi6lagemerf 1pur6e.
&ier finoet 1ie lire eigenen @rfab=
rungen %geiammelt, @6abe, 6ie fein
fremoes Bl16 uno lei es 6aS bor5iig=
lidite, ibr gu bieten permag. Sn Die
lem ibrem eigenen @erf iu6t lie
@ot in auen auBergem0bnli6en Sal
len, menn Tie cine @eleui9aft geben
min, 10 berrGt ibr 6os getreue 8ud,
lpiepiel 6leii6, @il6, un6 @is tie
6os lebtemol gebraudt. Sic fat muir
n0tig, 6orous 6ie 8tlan5 5u 5ieben,
I'M 6es beiten States teilbaftig 81
mer6en. nn6 ebenIo bepdbrt 1i6 Der
treue &otgeber betm &auspnb, &ei=
len, bel um3iigen un0 nod biel mebr
@elegenbeiten, 6ie bent MnBeniteben=
Sen unmeientli9 iheinen, innerbalb
6es @ansbalts aber 3n 6em &d0er=
merf geb0ren, 6as BEL 6em 8etrieb
ineinan6ergreifen mnB.
eSSn Dem proiai16en Mnsgabebn9,
SOS MIR nii6terne 3ablen birgt, fin
oct Sic @ausf ran ibren bel tenTrenn6;
nebe11 6em S9ab 6ergrfabrungen ge=
1tolten li6 sic M11f3ei6m1ngen gu per-
i0nli9en @rlebni1ien. Da lit Bulbs
critics @lei6den ber5eidnet, 6%esielben
@abi, ser bereits in ser 5@ule, Ser
peibli9en Biiriorge ii6 mebr nno
mebr at ent5ieben in6t. l1n6 auf ie=
Dem an6ern 8latt ftebt 6ie erite ST.
bel fir &iloe, oieielbe @iloe, sic in
fur5em oem Manne ibrer 8abl fol-
gen, Elm eigenes 2eben beginner
miro. @ebmut nn6 Sreu6e bel6lei<
den Dos @er5 Der &arSfran nno
Mntter, tpenn tie in ibrem Mnsgabe=
bnd Die gan5e 8ergangenbe it an ii@
poriiber5ieben iiebt. Nidt immer er=
56blen sic 5eiten bon Sreuoen> bon
erfiiuten @iiniden, audi 6es 2etoens
MaB lit olf ibnen ber5eidnet.
Iber geb0ren Sic 2eioen ni6t au@
5u ibr, 6aB nofy SEN Stiirmen Ser
@immel 1polfenloier, 6as 2eben le.
bensmerter i6ien? Sebt aber permog
iie ser ldei6en6en Godter als ein=
6ringltditen Sat BEN mit5ugeben:
Sdreib' oles ouf! Solte ou6 6as
@ertngite oetner 8ea6tung nt6t ur-
mert. Sic fleinen Dinge itn6 es, 6ie
geroruB 11no l1nbebagen i6affen, an
oenen ser Grie6e, ser Boblitan6 beS
@auies gu ideitern bermag. 9ie
Srou aber lernt am beiten ben Bert
6es @eloes i6aben, penn tie ii@
Der Nordstern. [volume] (St. Cloud, Minn.) 1874-1931, 1918-10-03

Sn gemeiniamer 8eratmns baben
sic Mrbeitgeber un6 bie Mrbeitneb=
mer 6es Stoates 8albington lid) ouf
einen p0hentliben Min6eitlobn bon
6rei3ebn Dollar 20 Gents fir tpeib=
li6e Mngeiteute %geeinigt. 9ie gegen=
partigen fir iolde Mngeltente gelten=
sen 2obnfdbe %beuegten iid 5miiden
o@t Dollar neu5ig Gents un6 5ebn
Dollar 6ie @o9e. Ser neue Snb ioa
in &raft bleiben Big feds Monate
nod Been6igung oes &rieges. Die
itaatlide Sn6u1trie =@oblfabrtsfom=
miiiion miro sic Musfibrung 6es 8e=
I6Iulies iibertpoden.
The sun., 1918-11-10
THIRD PRIZE.
Mrs. H. p. Fisher, Vergennes, VT.
SONG OF THE SOCKS.


of the big guns and airpllnes outside
Of their zone OF damage New York
has had a great impetus in industry
through the realization that people are
still buying In vast quantities and in
dulging in all the reasonable and ami
mated pleasures that this great centre
offers to the rest of the continent.
The later exhibitors of clothes ac-
centuated the corsetless figure. This
does not mean that the mannequins
who showed the gowns We're always
without corsets. Some Of them We're,
But others wore girdles of tricot or
elastic. The effect was uncorseted.
That was the vital point.
one OF the most interesting moves
in this direction is q return TO the
Directoire of Josephine and Nine. Tai
lien In the high waist line and the I'M
doubted convex curve of the natural
figure in front. To the average wom-
an this silhouette Is unthinkable; to
the artists, sculptors, stage folk and
certain designers 1t is a return to the
best there Is In fashions. IL Is I'M
possible on the middle aged woman
unless she has kept herself as thin as
an eel,
The sun., 1918-11-10

the collar is appearing in various
! types of new clothes.
There is a decided change from the
october dcColletaCe, which was copied
/ from the Middle Ages. was severe, un-
touched Icy white, and classic in out
line. 1t exists, this decOlletagc, on
froCks and blousns, but the japanese
lire, which stands away from the neck
and allows n soft tucker Of some kind
TO show as the fabric moves across the
shoulders. IS new. and is adopted by
very smart women.
And here is another decolletage
which is change from October and is
seen in black velvet gowns; the fabric
! is cut TO the bone Of the neck in back
and then downward in a deep L in
front. IT is edged with a three inch
collar of antiqrs ivory lace which is
. slightly fun, but caught to the fabric
50 that it may rest fiat and steady.
This extends nearly to the waist line
ana where the lower part rounds itself
out over the figure there is u straight
! tucker of flat tulle covered with lace.
This is m eighteenth century deCol-
letaSe ana is far more becoming to any
woman than the severity Of the half
b low mtultH|dl Inc,
Every ones mind Is not quite easy
about the jacket that appeared in Sep
TENDER. 1t was longer than usual. and
in the An rican designs il was cut
/ with the irregular hem, some of the
/ points reaching TO and below the
4 knees These were especially effective
over the tubelike skirts.
They seemed to lie established, but
I now there creops into the fashion n
much smarter, newer jacket that had
its sponsors in Cheruit and Lucille and
Duucet in the Paris houses. 1t is box
Ike. it ends ut the hips, 1t has large
sleeves cut into low armholes, II fas
tens 20 the neck and il is unbclted.
; In one instance there is "A touch of
belt in the middle of the back which
keeps the fu.ness from DeinG too cape
( like. 1t is arranged in this manner:
through two long buttonholes about
five inches apart comes a band of the
buckle covered with the material or
with suede in color e match the fab
rio. That is ALL but the touch is smart
/ Douccts Jacket, which is cut out in
square settlements at the hip line
where they are mounted on a strip of
fur that runs up the front, Is espe-
/ cially attractive to the iudividualists,
and it is copied in the best Of the new
models.
one cannot help but notice the
change TO square, boXlilic lines in gar
ments or accessories worn above the
waist, while the skirts take on bias
lines and spiral draperies. 1t is an
odd combination. Even n bridal veil
has been made in an entirely new
manner and was shown at an exhibit
ton which always includes one quiec
fascinating bridal costume. This veil
by the way, may be worth describing
in detail fdh' November brides.
1t Is Of thin white chiffon, a novelty
indeed. 1t is cut in a wide panel back
and front, gathered at the top To u
bandeGu that fits low on the head, on
Il level with the eyebrows. There is
nothing over the top of the head.
The chiffon falls over the face to
the toes in front and to the hem Of
the trainless skirt in back. 1t falls
apart from the bandeau, down each
side, where it is bordered with q
supple quality of silver Gouzc ribbon
The sun., 1918-11-10

outstanding band. over this is u deep
edge Of pointed filet, and q black MORE
cravat two inches wide slips under
meath tho pointed over collar. tying iu
fiat bow In front. The cuffs OF the
long sight sleeves have received the
same treatment.
4 very pleasing fancy for utilizing
filet is shown in another imported
blouse of flesh pink georgette. The
collar In this instance is low and falls
around the neck to be finished at the
yoke in front with pointed edges en-
broidered IN a beautiful design. The
same embroidery trims inserts of fllet
along the front OF the waist and also
the cuffs.
As to the use OF heads there IS no
end OF the ways in which they have
been introduced. One OF the pretty
fashions is that OF threading the ma
terial in long strings from neck to
waist and letting them serve as tho
only trimming. This Is done usually
on waists~of enc color. For example
on dark blue georgettc sand colored or
white beads may be used. The smart
est models are those with the beads or
the same color us the blouse.
A notion reminiscent of several sea-
sons ago, when many colors were trans
/ fused by means of many Innings placed
one above the other, Is shown in some
! clever blue blouses OF Georgette
through which red, canary or petunia
( shows part of the way to the yoke and
| again for cuffs and collar.
Fur Vests for Thin Houses.
The fur vest is quito new and is
added to blouses Of fabric so thin that
one marvels that 1t can support the
heavier material of the fur White
georgette with an erminc vest is d.
smart as the smartest could desire. OF
course underneath the coat only the
fur shows, but when one removes the
coat the contrast of the two fabrics *
seen at once. This is a decided innova-
tion--the waistcoat blouse, l mean.
Often the waistcoat on some Of the
thin, fine blouses Is made of rare and
exquisite hrocade, so rich and lovely
as to catch and hold the eye. The
ends of these vests are pointed like a
mans waistcoat, and they are very
smart indeed.
Thin blouses with rainbow sleeves
are new. Inc RAINBOW effect IS PRIV
duced by fagoting various blocks OF
color together-green pink, canary
blue. in fact all of the rainbow shades.
These vivid sleeves added to a dark
blouse betoken its absolute newpess
They are easily made and usually
are very PETTY. A lovely green and
white waist which is to accompany
: green velours suit has been made
: of soft mignonette green with N,
uyerblouse of darker green and rain
bow sleeves blocked cleverly In the
two tones Of green. white and a bright
orange and pink. This rather bizarre
fashion is very much more pleasing
to see than it is To read about.
, Marrow fringe of silk appears OF
!. many new models. Again. I find {
! deep silken fringe falling from tn,
] round neck of n blue georgette, max
ing q very good effect indeed. Now
/ and then long strings Of gay bead
. are hung in this way, to he tucked
: in an overhanginS effect, like loops
I over the skirt at the waist.
The sun., 1918-11-10
Net Blouses, Many Embroidered, Come
From Paris and Service Waists
Are Wholly Useful

Paris como very lovely
X blouses of net. 1t has been
Il some seasons since the net
blouse has appeared over here. but
Just now there Is C showing OF Parl-
sian creations Of this kind which are
beautiful to see and becoming to wear.
Many OF them are richly cmbroid-
cred In the exquisite French fashion.
and few of them are unadorned. Much
lace. Nalenciennes or filet is used to
put some of them together. and still
others are threaded with ribbon run
through n hem ut the cuffs about the
waist or in plastrons for the front. OF
course blouses of this description are
made Of white or cream colored net.
While no other blouse is so becom-
ing as the white, whether OF crepe de
chine, georgette or net. one finds such
blouses not 80 practical as those OF
color, and therefore not SO popular.
Tho same tendency to combine colOrs
and fabrics which one sees in other
garments IS almost overemphasized
this season in the new blouses. Few
are the sui. waists entirely of one
color. A brown blouse. for instance,
designed to he worn with brown suit
will have sleeves of sand colored
georgette, or the blouse Will be made
of the lighter shade and have its
sleeves of an entirely different color.
War Service Waists.
OF course the war work in which
women engage just now is prime
consideration in selecting clothes. and
therefore the shops make feature
of what are called service waists,
which are absolutely without frills and
as plain and practical as n mans shirt.
For overseas wear the service waists
are made up in khaki cloth or dark
blue French flannel and have turn
over collars such as mems outing
shirts have.
By the way, this sort Of collar has
set an army of girls learning how to tie
necktie, and in at least one patriotic
| organization where women are largely
employed instructions in knottins
| necktles are given.
The service waist is without a frill
/ but it should always be spotless. cspe.
cially if it is made UP in one of the
white materials, such as madras, linen
/ tlne crash and poplln. Some smart
/ silken waists of this sort are of KHAKI
color and very practical.
In their hours of cnse, however. the
, frilliest and fullest of blouscs are worT
by the war workers just as much as il
prc-war days, the soft, becoming flesl
colored Georgettes with their eXquisit,
iilet lace additions being still i'm
mensely admired and much used. File
lace has supplanted all other varietie!
as n trimming for this sort Of waist
1t is put on perfectly fat and ha
never any fulness. Perhaps the beaut!
of the designs is the reascp for thi
use Of filet lace.
Uses of FiIct Lace.
Overseas no blouse of light materia
is worn with the collar outside tn
coat, perhaps because furs are not yer,
kind to delicate fabrics whose charm
lies in their exquisite freshness an
daintinesS.
one OF the lovclicst Of the importe
waists ] have been describing Is mad
OF pearl white crepe de chine. II ha
a high collar of filet lace set on in n
The sun., 1918-11-10

The house oC Cabot also acCentuates
change in the silhouette from what
we have had from other French houses
1t is nothing new under the name of
CallOt, for it was advanced last Feb
ruary and We called it the mummy sill
houette for want OF n better name.
The gown is really "A bag with square
sleeves and tight ankles. 1t is in strik-
Ing contrast 10 the straight, chemise
tunics Of nearly all tho other French
houses.
Outside OF this peculiar silhouette
which the dressmaker exploits more
than the public adopts are the draped
Roman and Grecian gowns which are
also in direct contrast TO the Chomise
tunic.
AS the Americans have gone in
strongly for drapery there Is an UNI
easy feeling about the straight en-
broidered transparent tunic over the
satin sheath skirt that became so pop
ular in October. Not only has the
japanese kimono again afforded an
outstanding silhouette, with It's bias line
across tho front and it's skirt wen
lapped over and caught on the hip, but
The sun., 1918-11-10
70 the layman it may appear
that the excitement over
new clothes dies down about

TO the layman 1t may appear
that the excitement over
l. new clothes dies down about
Thanksgiving Day. To those in the
trade and to those who follow the
movements of tho trade this Is far
from a dull season.
y It has been prophesied that the sea-
son would see far more rapid changes
in fashion than have been thrust at us
tor three years. To keep within mil
itary phraseology, II is to be a war
Of man9uvre, and all the brapches OF
the service are to be called into ac-
tion. Why?
The reason Is founded on the war.
Paris is the centre Of the worlds Gre
alive fashions. New York Is probably
the financial centre of fashions. The
battle has moved away from Paris and
money pours into New York. With
these two conditions governing the
output OF apparel, it is almost easy to
prophesy spirited action for the next
six months at least.
France has had great burden
lifted from her heart by the moving