The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-07-21
By ALICE ZESKA SNYDER.

ITO those who lived through the
epoch making days Of 5eptem-
Der. 1914, when the Germans
were practically at the gates Of the
city. Paris OF June. 1918. presents
much the same aspect Then Gal
lieni was the ruling spirit, his calm
presence the inspiration Of those who
remained to stand or fall with the city
beautiful. And, with his help, Joffre
threw back the Hun and Paris was
saved.
To-day also there are two men whose
names fill with confidence those who
refuse to flee the French capital.
Foch at the front-and in his military
genius every one has falkland the
wonderful seventy -seveI-year young
Clemenceau whose dictum: THE Gov
eminent will never capitulate. has
given courage to the Parisians. They
are convinced that the barbarians will
never march under the Arc de
Triomphe save as prisoners Of war and
that the long threatened bombardment
Of the city will never take place.
But aside from the millions who re-
main, there are million people who
have fled; refusing to be uncomfort-
able even for a moment and not taking
into account the shame that will be
theirs when this offensive has turned
into another Hun defeat.
| Undoubtedly the streets are less
crowded; there Is no longer any sour
rying across corners to escape the
ruthless chauffeur. TaXis stand idle
and many of the smaller shops have
put up their shutters. Even some Of
the great stores have vans standing
at their doors carting away to safety
their art treasures and more valuable
merchandise. The banks have moved
their securities to other towns and the
Paris railway stations are damned
with travellers who loudly proclaim
that they are only going away for a
few weeks holiday and that not in any
sense must they be Classed as fugi-
tives.
Aud vet the movies and theatres
that remain open are filed and the de-
partment stores seem to have rs many
customers as ever. The restaurants,
fashionable and questionable. hold
their tables at a premium and the
boulevards last Sunday were black
with promenaders.
Making winter Models.
The world of fashion goes on also
and in all the large ateliers fall and
| winter models are being prepared
feverishly for the influx OF American
buyers who are due to arrive next
month. This weeks steamship brought
the first OF these 70 Paris. There was
much questioning whether or not the
Paris modistes would prepare their
autumn collection OF hats. They made
their first models last week as a feeler
for foreign buyers and the fact that
! representative OF one of the most i'm
portant New York Arms had already
! arrived served as the greatest enCour-
agement and will also decide the doubt
full ones to begin work on their winter
| models.
AS long az one buyer has arrived
others will follow. Then there are
| firms who have permanent buyers in
Paris and there are also one or two
| buyers who remained over from last
season owing TO the difficulties of trav-
cling So altogether there will be
| enough buyers interested in autumn
millinery to start the bah rolling in
good fashion this week.
| Though Paris may seem deserted as
far as women are concerned, there are
still enough left to want to know what
the new styles in hats may be. And
| the women elsewhere are probably
more eager to know what is going on
| in Paris In regard to the fashions than
Parisians themselves
| Although the modistes are not yet
ready to let their secrets out concern
| ing Just what style Of hats we may
expect for the early autumn, they say
they will have a new choice OF models
despite the fact that their work girls
are running away from the Berthas,
for they do not intend that American
buyers shall cross the ocean in these
critical times without being amply re-
paid for the trip.
New small Hats shown.
| Old England and some of the smart
speciality shops are showing new
small hats called "poiluchons, which
are made of long haired felt and are
guaranteed to withstand the ravages
Of wind and weather They come in
three tones: White. black and a pale
anaemic blue: these tiuts being fea-
tured because they are least likely TO
run IL beaten upon by a sudden sum |
mer shower, The hats are narrow in |
the brlm with a moderately high |
rounded crown, which looks for all |
the world like the furry top of the
head OF an Angora cat and makes |
your fingers itch TO scratch it. Their |
only trimming is a two inch grosgrain /
ribbon of the same shade as the cha
peau. These hats are splendid for I
travelling and motoring and are much |
seen on smart Parisiennes. whose
health suddenly demands that they |
seek the bracing climates of AK or
BiarritZ
Because of the tremendous exodus
to the country, there has been an
Unprecedented demand for summer
frocks, for AZ ali the watering places
there Is much dressing and hourly |
changing Of costumes. At the sea-