Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1918-06-23

GOSS@>tg one city of the universe
Tor its inspiration, guidance and ma
ter!al and artistic help in making,
sp,ling and exploiting Of women's ap-
rarel. To have the bonds weakened
mat connect us with Paris, is to
have the feeling that child has
when its mother turns 1t loose and
tells il to walk alone to the nearest
chair There is in the minds Of the
buyers, we imagine, something of
thc panic that must ccome to the
Young brain when 1t knows that it
must depend upon nothing but its
own legs for support in a wide oasis
of space.
We did not get this feeling when
the war broke, because two or three
thousand gowns were assembled in
rualic under the sound Of the can
non nearing Campiegne. Even the
submarine menace did not break
fhe bond for the succeeding two
summers but it percepibly weak
cncd after last season and now we
are confronted with a situation in
this country that has grown to
strength and importance in the last
few weeks.
BUYERS CANNOT CROSS OCEAN
The hand Of the government, with
its five fingers gripping every part
OF the continent has reached out
and touched those women who have
made their living by shutting across
the ocean and obringlng back to
America what 1t wanted from
France. The government. has said
that no women shall have passports
unless they are going 10 work for
the war, and even then, they cannot
be self-appointed missionaries or i'm
pulsive emosionalists They must
be sent for by workers over there
and they must give guarantee that
the work will be done, and that IN
every wav they will fulfill their mis-
sion 10 the best OF their ability
The government has insisted upon
narrowing down the travellers to a
mere thin thread, and In this thread
there must be no women, except
those In uniform whose nerves have
been tested.
France and England took this step
three wears ago. The women In
France have looked with astonish-
ment and incredulity upon the bat
talions of American women who
have constantly gone In and out of
Paris since the war began The Eng
lish have envied them too, for they
were compelled to remain in GER
tain districts and only go to Flanders
under the protection OF the govern
ment and for reasons of IT'S own.
French women have considered a
trim to the Notifications that sur
round Paris as a little journey into
tho world. They may go to Deau-
willie when the season Is at its height
in August, but they cannot go In any
other direction. and their permits
and passports are so difficult to get
that thousands Of women prefer to
remain in the serenity Of their own
homes. rather than accompanying
20 hazardous as an hours journey
from Paris.
America In its reckless Indulgence
Of all caprices In its unlimited cur
iosity gratified by the wherewithal
TO travel. has allowed Its women TO
run to and fro throughout the bel
ligerent lands and to run across the
ocean almost as often as in times OF
peace.
Now, we, like France and Eng
land, are to be restricted. It seems
pity to many that women buyers
who are willing to go TO Paris to
bring back clothes are to be forbid
den that privilege. A few men buyers
will be allowed to go after the gov
ernment' has thoroughly searched
their reasons for the attempt and
given them permission that is
hedged about with as many restric-
tons as though it were signed by a
military governor
Under the pressure Of all these
conditions, the American buyers
think they will not go to Paris this
year, and the rumor persists that
only a very few of the French houses
will show gowns.
TIE latest rumor, believed by
many, is that the new fashions will
he shown in Deauville and Biarrit2
and not in Paris. Whether this
change from the century-old center
Of fashions to seaside summer re-
sorts is to calm the fears OF the
Americans. who might not wish TO
visit a raided city. or whether 1t is
done as n method OF saving thou
sands Of francs for the French dress
makers. no one can tell.
T., The Americans have shown SUI
preme courage, the women equally
with the men, but not since the bat
lie Of the Marne has the situation
been so tense, so filled with misgiv-
ings, and so pregnant with danger as
In Paris at the present moment. The
air may clear, the German line may
be thrown. back, the colossal Gothas
NAV be overcome: but now there is
feeling among the buyers. and II
seems to ge shared by the French
dressmakers, that the tenseness is
TOO great to allow OF any judicious
shopping and exploding of new
fashions.
Remember. you may be cynic
about this affair of the interchange
or owns between the two countries
mat it Is not matter OF frivolity
II Is stern necessity in finance
France needs the money; America
mas it. France has heretofore fol-
lowed It, somewhat too bllndly.
THE WHOLE SITUATION HAS
q CHANGED IN CLOTHES.
n Those who can look below the
4 surface, know that terror and dan.
ger have very little to do with the
present situation regarding the ship
meht OF clothes. 1t is an economical
one, probably. more than one ere