Middletown transcript., 1918-03-23

New York.-There is some exceed
inqlv good feature about the French
gowns that are beginning to arrive IN
America. which will not cause disap-
nroval over here. That is the striking
similarity between afternoon and eve
ming costumery, according to a fashion
writer.
It was once said, in slightly con-
temptuous manner, that in certain Sec
lions of this country the women wore
guimpes in their ball gowns for after
noon occasions and that no one was
capable of such an economical combl-
nation but the American woman, or Ut
least. no other woman who moved III
fashionable circles.
1t has long been the opinion OF the
French, whenever they were sufhclent-
ly lenient to be interested in the Amer
lean type of dressing, that we never
knew the exact shade of difference
that existed between an afternoon
gown and all other kinds of gowns.
The French women have often said.
in their polite manner, that they could
not understand why the American was
lacking in that finer feeling which au-
tomatically governs the choice OF
clothes.
Did Not Always Change.
Now, whether or not the American
lacked the finer feeling or whether she
was conscious that custom produced
fashions, she continued to dress at ten
o'clock in the morning in the clothes
that she would wear until seven o'clock
in the evening. In truth. she did not
always change for dinner or the thea
ter. She went on through the entire
routine of the day with its diversified
interests, its business appointments, Its
marketing, shopping and restaurant
lunching. it's afternoon teas, weddings,
card parties, home dinners and the
play in a coat and skirt that should
only be worn, as the French put it, in
public mob.
The American woman has always
held up to herself, and very earnestly.
that she was too busy woman to
change her clothes several times dur
ing the day. Let the women of the
European nations do what they would,
she thought, in social atmosphere
that was fostered by generations of
leisure and inactivity. Her own en-
vironment, she said, called for diff
ferent adjustment of clothes and life.
So, as q rule, she presented sOmber
appearance ut all those social festlvi-
ties that were intended to make wOm-
en- gay as birds of paradise.
However, this manner OF dressing
has changed. For several years
woman has not depended on her tailor
ed suit to do the work for every hour
of the day.
This transition to better dressing has
come about through the domination OF
the one-piece frOck. AS soon as the
American could be divorced, or rather,
wedged away from her lifelong friend.
the tailored suit, she found that the
one-piece frock had its attractions.
She was willing to accept it in tail
ored style, but she began to play with
it O bit and make it suitable for her
leisure time. No sooner had she &C.
quired this wisdom than the top coat
of fur or heavy material came in to
further her manner of dressing. She
found that thin frocks were still avail
able for winter wear in the open, If
she was securely buttOned up from
chin to shoe top in warm garment.
She found that the chiffon gown
which she wore ut eleven O'Clock in
the morning was quite suitable for an
afternoon dance, cup of tea or
game of cards at five in the afternoon.
This rather pleased her, so she bought
coats, and more coats, just as she
bought sweaters, and more sweaters
in the summer.
She also realized that the separate
blouse was an excellent garment I'M
der a coat. but not for social affairs
when the coat was removed.
Three years ago, she ceased to re-