davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1918-08-25
DRESS SMALL BOYS
IN SIMPLEST SUITS

Most boys like corduroy. This year.
when wool is expensive. there Is no
better selection for every day trousers
than brown corduroy.
With corduroy trousers the smallish
boy can wear q washable colored
blouse shirt. either with or without a
necktie. II a necktie is worn 1t is best
to have 1t a dark Windsor tie, prefer
ably black or navy blue. Sometimes q
leather belt is worn with the trousers.
and this appeals to the boy as being
grown up.
From time out of mind thrifty moth
ers have made over the clothes dis
carded by the little boys father for
the little boy himself, and in this wool
conserving season perhaps there is
good sense in this. In a certain West
ern State. where an effort has been
going on to conserve wool and other
dress materials through organized sew
ing centres. where women are shown
how to perform all sorts Of feats in
renovation. a great many little boys
overcoats have been made from those
Of grown men with very satisfactory
results.
If you DO attempt to undertake this
task. be sure to get a good paper pat
tern. Be sure. too. after the coat is
ripped up that you clean 1t carefully.
either In gasolene or In bland soap and
water. II the wool Is Of good enough
quality to go through a washing. 1t
may shrink, but that does not matter,
since you will have enough goods any
way.
Then by all means avail yourself of
the services Of a tailor in the final
pressing. The secret OF the tailored
look Is In the pressing. and In the ordi-
nary household there are no facilities
to produce the finishing effect OF the
tailor's goose.
The sun., 1918-08-25

from the cradle to the grave either in
their own lives or In those about
them. Their order Of living Is as es-
tablished as the movement of the
stars. They prefer such mental and
moral quietude. ,
But even they are thrilled in this
hour. They find that life has sud-
denly become Accordingly interesting.
They ind themselves in the current,
rushing along with the rest Of the
world. into new horizons and new
formations. They are a bit fright
ened, but they canot fail to be stirred.
The civil war may be called the
birth Of the nation. To-day we strive
forward. suddenly finding ourselves
grown to mans measure.
What concerns the nation concerns
the individual. The reformation. Of a
nation, which Is taking place to-day.
means that each individual in 1t II
assuming the new powers and the
new authority for action.
wsnan's Duty.
BY reformation" one means the re-
forming Of the particles that consti-
longer extrayagant children. We are
economical, conservative grownups.
Now tho woman's part in that re-
formation Is tremendous. Her prob
lens are just as great as those that
face the men. In fact they are greater.
The late Joseph H. Choate once said
as We all remember. in, his toast to
the Pilgrim Mothers, that they not
only stood the same dangers as the
Pilgrim Fathers. but they stood the
Pilgrim Fathers. One may say of the
women Of to-day that they. not only
stand the hardships that the men
stand. but they give up their best be.
loved men to death.
1t is therefore only right that the
Administration should In every way
the water while the bone of their
bone and the flesh Of their flesh are
fighting on the other side Of the
water. It's q colossal thing to ask
Of women in any epoch. but it has
been asked by life and nature since
Eve. .,
The part that women are doing in
this country Is to regard clothes and
food as Of fundamental Importance.
There are thousands who do not quite
see the war through this looking
glass and who believe that the kitchen,
the sewing room and the nursery
should be entirely given UP for sur
gical dressings and committee meet
ings.
This is too big a subject to discuss.
Each individual must work out her
own salvation. But one outstanding
truth rises above all others. which
Is that II the children are we'll taken
care OF and II clothes are at their best
through minimum Of expense then
the women are doing their part. They
have no easy task confronting them.
The food question has no place in a
fashion story. but the clothes question
Is its paramount subject.
Facing the New Season.
August is serene or. a stormy
month. as you look at 1t. You may
determine to wear whatever clothe,
you choose. even II they are faded and
shabby. until the first frost demands
a warm frock. but II you do this you
are not making the best Of things
You will find that all about you women
are extraordinarily keen about thei,
The sun., 1918-08-25
row that September is APP
preaching and small boys and

proacning ana sHidii Boys anu
! girls will soon be fiocking
back to the school rooms. you may
discover, If you have little son, that
boys clothes have advanced in price,
for some reason, rather more than
girls dresses. One way around this
difficulty Is to make some of the boys
clothes yourself.
One thing to remember in making
little boys clothes Is not TO attempt
anything odd or unusual for his school
attire. II you want to fix him up like
q little boy from Gsinsbofough paint
ing. do 1t when he is home. not when
he has to go to school and meet the
taunts and criticisms of other little
boys. No one who has not been taken
into the confidence of a little boy
knows what embarrassment and NOR
tihcation he endures when he Is
the other boys.
The best way to begin Is to get a
pattern catalogue and go over the pat
terms with the boy himself. Get him
to tell you which OF the suits appeals
to him. which are like those the other
boys wear. Then you will not be half
so likely to have him conceive a pref
udice against the home made clothes
after they are made.
And Just because Of the war and
the wool shortage. don't think you
have to use up odd bits OF woollen
goods in making the boys clothes.
That light gray broadcloith evening
cape you have on hand contains ex-
cellent material, and It would no
doubt make a serviceable suit for the
little boy; but that little boy would
far rather have a suit made OF very
inferior fabric. provided It was not
odd or conspicuous. II you are max
ing the clothes yourself It does pay
to get very good material.
The sun., 1918-08-25

appearance to-day. Those who were
sloppy have. become careful; those
who were shabby have become smart;
those who were unstylish have pulled
themselves into. the picture Of the
hour.
Clothes have undergone the same
Transformation as everything else In
America. Economy and conservation
are the keynote Of dressing. but only
the very Indifferent or the overbur-
dened and morbid woman is careless
OF her appearance.
The word morale has become the
foundation stone OF this war. and
women. who are keenly emotional
hold on to 1t as to a life rope. They
must not be morbid and they mus,
not be shabby. Optimism must shine
from, their faces and their clothes
This IL a part Of their burden, ant
| the mass of women have risen to II a.
The sun., 1918-08-25
REALLY neat sewing room is a,

n REALLY neat sewing room IL as
~ much out of the question as a
neat sculptor's atelier or a neat
artists studio. II you try to keep It
neat you spend all your time putting
things TO rights.
Moreover. art does not thrive In the
atmosphere that makes a perfect OPP
Grating room, or an ideal kitchen, and
the amateur dressmaker has discov-
cred that dressmaking Is an art.
Nevertheless the sewing room must be
so arranged and so kept that It is the
acme OF convenience.
Things must not be allowed to get
30 out Of order that you cannot always
lay your hands on them when you
want them. or that fabrics and Access
sories become wrinkled or deteriorate
In the confusion. There are lot Of
things that help to keep the sewing
room neat and make home dressmak-
Ing a pleasure.
Here Is device that you sometimes
see In professional sewing rooms and
It Is a great convenience: Have a
pain. smooth board put up on the
wall somewhere within easy reach Of
the sewing machine or work table. In
this board set three inch nails at in
servals Of about two inches. On each
The sun., 1918-08-25

ter OF life. But the propaganda for thu
long skirt Is sinking deeply into tho
hearts OF women and spreading itse,s
far over the continent.
Mind you, these skirts are not al.
cording to the lines that we have worn.
TSometimes they are straight, but often
they are slightly draped upward at tho
back, and there In q growing tendency
to make a skirt exceedingly narrow
and sweeping the instep, and then a
draped tunic, which is a quick re-
hinder of the pullback skirt Of other
days.
So you see the designers are kind
to us after all. They provide q new
skirt and a new silhouette, but thew
do not compel you to buy a new gown.
She who has money and little leisure
will purchase the new garment; she
will find It possible to arrange the new
idea through the combination OF an old
frock draped into a tunic and a new
skirt narrowly cut at the hem
Conservative women are delighted.
They abhor the short skirt, which,
through our usual extravaganza In
OVERRIDING things has resolved itss!.
into q Scottish kilt
Striped Flannel Suits.
Another .midseason adjustment Of
clothes, which does not call for much
outlay Of money is the acceptance OF
the thin striped flannel suit to carry
one over until October. 1t is good
purchase to-day. 1t takes the place
of one piece frocks that have nearly
finished their service, and 1t keeps One
going in an attractive manner until
there is a necessity for warmer fabrics.
France started the wearing Of these
suits as a measure of strict economy
six months ago. They come In brown
and white, black and white and in
white and black hairlined stripes. The
skirts are nothing but two width,
heavily stitched at the sides. and the
mannish coats are worn over blouses
Of colored silk or linen.
Joffre blue. geranium pink, Chinese
yellow and amethyst purple blouses
are considered very smart with any
suit. They go especially we'll with
these mannish flannel suits. The wo-
man who can afford laundry bills
wears a pleated Chinese silk skirt In
ivory tone.
The coats Of these suits sometimes
have six pockets arranged below the
belt. three on a side one above the
other. They are called package pock-
cts. and were designed In Paris so that
women may be able to carry home all
their small bundles. leaving only the
large packages for the one delivery
day system.
The sun., 1918-08-25
DAINTY DISHES THAT HELP HOOVER TOO

THERE are times when II your
guests are patriotic you can
dispense lavish war time hospi-
tality at an afternoon tea with cream
less, sugarless tea; but there are times
when you really do feel justified In
having refreshments little more sub
stantial. And II these refreshments
contain the minimum Of sugar and no
wheat and are made in as true a
war spirit as possible no one can
Justly accuse you Of lack Of patriotism.
OF course there are some hostesses
who in order to have frosted cake or
other refreshments sweetened with
sugar. would gladly give up their own
two pounds Of sugar and go sugarless
for q month. But unless you are will
ing to make that sacrifice you should
The sun., 1918-08-25

women can be depended upon to do
in any national emergency.
So. summing up all this and making
our appearance a part of the morale
Of a nation, the question bobs UP as
to how best to dress between now and
the first frost.
II spring clothes are still doing duty
they undoubtedly are faded and
shabby If a woman has been in active
service. They must be renewed or
covered. One set of women buys new
things; another set buys new cover
ings, 1t Is a question Of taste and
! comfort.
There is small hope for a topcoat
these days. It's career was abruptly
ended when capes became the fashion.
Foresighted women INDUCED in the
loose. picturesque cape two years ago
| and chung to the theory that II was
| the comfortable and suitable type of
The sun., 1918-08-25

was begun in Paris five months ago
when the first warm weather set in.
and 1t has ruled since then. In
America we are just beginning to take
It UP with any enthusiasm. and by
the time we have established It as a
fashion our cold weather will make US
bring the fronts Of our coats together
and fasten them snugly from collar
bone to hips.
II one uses a Jacket, long or short,
as a redingote, the need for fastening
will not present itself, for the cold
weather will bring in the cape Of cloth
or fur. with its huge collar. and one
may wear any kind OF costume beneath
It. Herein lies its value to the econ
omist.
The Pompeiian black and white COM
bination Is brilliantly done in capes
The sun., 1918-08-25
Recipes That Provide Substantial
-. Food Yet Save Essentials

not use any sugar to speak of in your
refreshments. .. 81,
Make cake or cookies that can be
sweetened with maple sugar, corn
syrup or honey. and have the frosting
made OF maple sugar. or else serve war
bread sandwiches. with cottage cheese
and pickles or olives for filling. For a
beverage serve a punch made from
very sweet fruit. or start an innovation
and serve an abundance. Of fresh, ripe.
luscious fruits and nothing more.
You should Of course have special
fruit napkins (paper napkins are per-
mitted with fruit in these days), and
The sun., 1918-08-25

finger bowls should be available. You
might surprise your guests\ by serving
fruit Refreshments, but you could not
displease them II you offered luscious
peaches, ripe crisp apples. glowing
grapes and plums, bananas. oranges
and pears.
But there are some other suggestions
In the way Of more usual refreshments.
little things. that you may serve at
your next party without fear Of being
unpatriotic In your use of food.
For nut cookies beat an egg and add
a half cup Of syrup. a tablespoon of
cooking OH and four tablespoons Of rice
The sun., 1918-08-25

covering for frock or a suit. The
shops finally took up the theory and
offered loose wraps at all prices from
SIS to $40.
There is no diminution in the FASH
ion. The economical woman finds
that q fresh new covering can hide a
faded or dusty gown and give one a
feelingfof self-respect in public places.
The new capes are suitable for coat
suits as well as frocks and their fab
RIGS run the gamut. Satin, georgette
crepe, all the heavy Chinese silks,
striped and plain taffeta. broadcloth.
velours and chiffon are chosen.
Now the topcoat has become a part
Of a costume. and II even permits a
cape to be worn over 1t. 1t Is rather
fascinating as a redingote. 1t resolves
itself into this kind Of garment. but
The sun., 1918-08-25

when 1t Is Of crepe de chine or extra
soft satin 1t Is. slipped, over a severely
plain chemise frock Of another color
and forms a polonaise.
These new topcoats follow the path
blazed by the jackets that belong to
suits: in fact they do not pretend even
to meet in front. They are broad
enough to reach across the chest and
waist. but the fashionable trick is to
push the fronts back until they are
almost under the arms in order that a
broad expanse Of the frock may show
Do not run over this item as an in
significant one. 1t Is a fashion that
The sun., 1918-08-25

that are worn on the street as well as
to evening affairs. The body of the
cape is Of black satin. and the decora-
lions are Of white satin. The weather
is hot enough to permit these thin
fabric capes to be worn during all the
waking hours. They cover a multitude
Of bad details in a gown that could not
do service II exposed to the searching
sunlight.
The idea Of pulling back the fronts
of a redingote or jacket in order to
show a wide. expanse Of gown beneath
Is not a mere idle trick that is con-
fined to one garment. 1t is part Of q
The sun., 1918-08-25
SQUARE JET BUTTONS.

CQUARE jet buttons are used from
y the top Of the collar to the waist
line in one of the new frocks.
The collar. which Is high and fiaring,
Is held up by wires. for otherwise the
heavy. square jet buttons would publ
II down. &C.
The sun., 1918-08-25
Dress Trick Puts Fulness at the Sides Of the Figure
but Skirts Are Narrower and Longer-Capes
A. Are Still Popular, but New Topcoats
Are Built on Novel Lines

w re are already a nation Of
w economists. The ,naly'au. a,
errs: the mass does not. It
Is . face about Of tremendous signifi-
canoe. Isn't It a thrilling thing to be
alive and taking ones part in the stir
Of the times when things are happen
ing each hour? 1t is probable that
few who are alive to-day would have
chosen any other epoch Of the world
in which to live. We can see things
shape and reshape themselves before
our eyes.
World movements are not the only
movements that engross us. The re-
adjustment of our own lives to meet
emergencies takes ingenuity and abb
serbs our interest.
There are those who like the old
wAys-those who do not wish a change
The sun., 1918-08-25

Unusual cape in black and
white satin which hangs
loosely and is pulled upward
in folds, sarong fashion. It
fastens at the waist with a
loose girdle, is lined and piped
with white satin, and deep
cuffs are fastened with jet
links.
The sun., 1918-08-25

Little undersleeves slightly fulled
above the snug narrow cum are fea-
tured on some very smart frocks Of
black satin. They are done sometimes
in white satin. sometimes In black or
white net. and have a curiously quaint
look. One such set of undersleeves
Is finished around the wrist with tiny
scallops. and the black satin edge of
the sleeve Is likewise scalloped in little
half circles.
The upturned hem, like a cuff at the
bottom of the skirt. Is not unknown.
Now there appears a hem turned up
for a short space-and buttoned back
on the skirt.
The big collar Is coming-that Is.
the very big. high. wide collar on the
coat. 1t hugs up around the throat
and tt lies soft and close along the
shoulders. or course It can be rolled
back so that the throat Is uncovered
II desired.
The sun., 1918-08-25
LITTLE THINGS FOR FASHION.

r MBROIDERY done in colored silk
floss Is form OF trimming very
much in vogue. 1t Is used espe-
cially on the sheer. thin fabrics.
The sun., 1918-08-25

Wide fringe and yet wider fringe
Is used on the edges OF apron TUNES,
on the bottom OF skirts and on sleeves.
either at the bottom edge or else as
trimming bands. It can't seemingly
be too wide.
The sun., 1918-08-25

At the right is the pale and blue striped flannel
suit with the multiple pockets There each hip and
each side of the front of the he At the left is blue
and white striped flannel suit the lined with Chinese
is simply without trimmings and omits but
down the front.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-11-11

| of SaxOny Out of job
Saxony been dethroned
according to telegram Berlin.
| Turn to Civilian
far
training
be Immediately o civilian life.
Preside Will ReadA rmstice Terms at O'clock
Wilson will the armice
today The members have
hastily summoned for 1 o'clock.
o'clock that
the with Germany signed.
demong of the naval forces of the
secretary called
Bavar His Army
Rupprecht of Bavaria commander of the
staff fled
Liege vo according the Belgian
red flag hoisted
Kaiser Wan oSurren to Briis Army.
William his
and forced to seek safety in Holland
Kaise Son andH indenberg Are Hiding
reliable railroad train
country
Kaiser Bill
authority
zoIIern, emperor Germany be
German Revolt Rapidly Spreading.
the German empire, dispatch from Berlin.
being established the
adds without
able disturbance Of the order Of boodshed
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-11-11
SIG COLEMAN TAKES
WAR SAVINGS STAMPS
RICH FARMER TAKES FULL
QUOTA AS REQUESTED
OTHERS DO NOT APPEAR

L. +. Parsons, chairman of the La
tab county council Of defense, makes
the following statement In regard to
| the meeting of the council last Friday
night:
The defense council met Friday
evening to hear Sig Coleman, S. o.
Harrington, Nels Madison, and Abe
Haynes who had been cited to appear
before the council to explain why
they had failed to take their quota
of the Fourth Liberty loan.
Mr.. Coleman's quota had been fixed
at previous hearing before the
council at $4,000 At that time Mr..
Coleman had subscribed for but $500
of the fourth issue and none Of the
previous issues. The council asked
Mr.. Coleman to take $500 more. Mr..
Coleman responded by taking $500.
He gave as his reason for not taking
the remaining 5000 that he had to
have enough money to operate his
farm.
1t was pointed out to Mr.. Coleman
that in the last drive, the government
was not only calling on us for our
LIQUID capital but also for the loan of
our credit; that he had credit but
had not used it to the extent that
others had, and if all the people of
the country had not done any more In
proportion to their financial ability
than he had, America and her allies
would not have gone very far in this
war.
After the matter was put up to
Mr.. Coleman very fully, he stated that
he felt different in reference to the
matter; that he wanted to do his part
and felt that he had up to this time.
1t was voted by the council that he
be requested to take his deficiency
in bonds in War Savings Stamps.
Mr.. Coleman acquiesced and purchas-
ed 5000 in stamps Saturday morning.
S. O. Harrington and Nels Madison
failed to appear as requested. 1t was
voted that the war record of these
men as known by the council be pub
lished and to let the public judge.
whether they had done their part.
AS Abe Haynes is a resident OF I
Washington and his person under the |
jurisdiction of the Whitman county
defense council, the matter was re-
ferred to Whitman county for its &C
ton.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-11-11
GOODING MAJORITY IN
LATAH COUNTY WAS 1913

The official canvass of the votes OF
Latah county was made Saturday and
completed late in the evening. All OF
the totals were not footed up. The vote
on United States senator for the short
term was footed up and it was found
that Gooding, republican, had 2512 votes
to 1894 cast of John F. Nugent, demo-
cratic, Endorsed by the nonpartizans.
Gooding's majority is 1913, which makes
Latah county the banner "Gooding
county of the state. Semi-official reports
from the state indicate that Gooding is
defeated by about 500 votes. Nugent is
the only democrat elected in the state.
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1918-11-11
DEFENSE COUNCIL
TO CONTINUE WORK
ENDING OFWAR DOES NOT STOP
NEED OF CONCERTED ACTION
EVERYWHERE

L. F. Parsons, county chairman of the
council of defense, is in receipt of the
following self-explanatory telegram from
Frank K. Lane, general chairman OF
field work. The telegram follows:
Washington, D. c.,
Council Defense: | earnestly beg
YOU not to relax your efforts in the
slightest degree on account of the posi-
biity of an early armistice. Even If an
armistice should be concluded this does
not mean that the war is over and IN
any case the emergency will not be over
for a long time. Most of the work
which you have been called on to per-
form must go on undiminished and
hope every man and woman in the coun-
Gil of defense system will stay on the
Job. In few days will write you as to
the outlook for future work.
FRANK X. LANE,
chairman Field Division,
Council of Defense"