Evening star., 1918-11-10

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However, it Is the duty of the re-
porter to say that the new effect is not
only exploited by the very leaders of
clothes in this country, but that 1t Is
being taken up by dozens of slim
women.
One Of the most interesting moves in
this direction is return to the direc-
toire Of Josephine and Nine Tallien in
the high waist line and the undoubted
convex curve of, the natural figure in
front. To the average woman this sill
houette is unthinkable; to the artists,
sculptors, stage folk and certain de-
signers it is a return to the best there
Is in fashions. 1t is impossible on the
middle-aged woman, unless she has
kept herself as thin as an eel.
This silhouette, as you can see, is en-
tirely different from what has been
commonly called the medieval one.
True, in its original state, this was
frankly uncorseted, when it was not
boned to such a deep point in front
were incased in one Of the instruments
Of torture used by the inquisition. This
silhouette, which has come about dur
ing the last few weeks, Is plainly di-
rectoire or Roman. for the former was
a copy of the latter.
Its startling innovation is the bring
ing about Of the line Of girdling the
figure to the bust instead of the hips,
signers, it really reduces the figure to
more narrowness than ever. 1t is used
In connection with a tight, Egyptian
hipband that holds the material tight
ly to the figure and then allows it to
drop downward to the toes and heels.
So it is not pure directoire; 1t is a
combination Of Roman and Egyptian.
The house Of Callot also accentuates
a change in the silhouette from what
we have had from other French houses.
Callot, for it was advanced last Febru-
ary, and we called it the mummy sill
houette, for want of better name
The gown is really bag, with square
ing contrast to the straight, chemise
tunics of nearly all the other French
houses.
This season it is not so pronounced
more Of the atmosphere Of a gown in
tended for a live and not lay figure.
1t pulls upward in drapery around the
knees and ankles, has closer line to
the figure under the arms and depends
for its beauty upon Indian embroidery
that spreads itself in sharp points
down the front from shoulders nearly
to knees. This Is usually done in cop
per tones Of silk floss
Outside of this peculiar silhouette
than the public adopts. are the draped
Roman and Grecian gowns which are
also In direct contrast to the chemise
tunic.
X k
AS the Americans have gone in
strongly for drapery, there is an un-
easy feeling about the straight, en-
broidered, transparent tunic over the
satin sheath skirt that became so
popular in October. Not only has the
Japanese kimono again afforded an
outstanding silhouette, with its bias
line across the front and it's skirt well
Tapped over and caught on the hip. but
the collar is appearing in various
types Of new clothes. There is a de-
letage. which was copied from the
middle ages, was severe. untouched by
white and classic in outline. 1t exists,
this decolletage. on frocks and blouses.
away from the neck and allows a soft
tucker Of some kind to show as the
fabric moves across the shoulders, Is
new and is adopted by very smart
women.
And here is another decolletage
which Is a change from October and
which is seen in black velvet gowns;
the fabric is cut to the bone of the
neck In back ana then downward in
a deep U in front. 1t is edged with q
three-inch collar Of antique ivory lace
which is slightly full, but caught to
the fabric so that II may rest nat and
steady. This extends nearly to the
waist line. and where the lower part
rounds itself out over the figure there
Is a straight tucker Of fiat tulle COW
cred with lace.
This is an eighteenth century decol-
letage, and is far more becoming to
any woman than the severity Of the
half low, medieval line
Every ones mind is not quite easy
about the Jacket that appeared in Sep
tember. 1t was longer than usual, and
in the American designs 1T was cut
with the irregular hem, some Of the
points reaching to and below the
knees. These were especially effective
over the tubelike skirts.
They seemed to be established, but
now there creeps into the fashion a
much smarter, newer Jacket that had
its sponsors in Cheruit and Lucille and
Doucet in the Paris houses. 1t is box
like. 1t ends at the hips, it has large
sleeves put into low armholes, II fast
ems to the neck and 1t Is unbelted. In
one instance there is a touch Of q belt
in the middle of the back which keeps
the fullness from being too capelike.
1t 10 arranged in this manner: Through