The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-10-06

edge has received the same sort of
ornamentation.
The big stitches used in setting on
the fur are, by the way, very new and
appear wherever possible, on satin, on
chiffon, on wool and velvet and
velours. AS rule the wool stitchery
is done in color contrasting well
with the material OF the dress or
blouse.
Another material destined to be
much seen this year is MORE silk. 1t
is having a quiet little vogue all its
own, whole dresses being made of it, as
| we'll as simple blouses. AS rule when
1t is used for q garment black is pre-
ferred.
a curious and rather pretty frock
has a narrow, straight skirt with the
lower part of MORE reaching to the
knees and black satin forming the
| upper part. The waist is combined OF
the satin and the MORE, and is of the
simplest shirtwaist style. A very
wide double frill of Belgian blue velvet
which stands up as high az possible
/ around the ears finishes the neck.
Similar wide frills are used on the long,
| tight sleeves to finish the cuffs.
These. wide frills are immensely
smart and are developed in every ma
terial. Seldom. however. do we find
them in white linen. batiste or net
among the newest things, for, as l
have said before, the white frocks are
collarless. Frills OF velvet OF a con-
Trusting color are added in many dark
woollen and satin dresses.
Sashes are more worn than ever
before and at any angle one wishes
front, side, back. Many French dress
makers are combining tulle with the
heaviest fabrics. The effect is soft
and pleasing, especially when the tulle
is placed near the face TO soften the
harsher lines left by the heavy fabric.
| Buttons and beads have never been
so lavishly used. As for soutache
braid, it is having riot OF popularity,
and ornaments everything in the Law
ish way In which fringe has been
used all summer.
| There are two new coIors which are
beautiful, overseas blue and artillery
red. The overseas blue is a shade as
lovely as the sky on the most beautiful
of days. Artillery red is the vivid
bright scarlet one would imagine It
10 be. A combination of navy blue
and artillery red Is very smart, a mere
touch of the latter being sufficient TO
brighten the dullest frocks. l find it
placed agreeably on a panelled blouse
buttoning at one side with rather
large round red buttons caught with
silken loops Of red cord.
1t is curious to note how we reach
out after as many of the military ef-
fects as possible. Epaulcts, for in
stance, are made of fur or gold fringe
or silver and again OF some OF the
Japanese brocaded metallic fabrics
mentioned in the beginning Of this ar.
ticle.
Another military note is the slashing
seen in some costumes. One fabric Is
slit and a material of a CONTRASTING
color is pulled through the opening
This treatment supplies a very new
and effective bit of trimming. I fine
a charming soft blouse of dove era,
Georgette with a tiny French chemi.
settle Of Alencon lace slashed through
with pale pink velvet ribbons at thu
yoke and on the cuffs.
Many Paris waists show cravat,
with streaming ends made Of two incl
wide ribbon tied tightly around tn,
throat and left to hang at the back
These ribbon cravats are used also [,
tie In the wide chiffon wells still
popular. They are usually Of a con
Iurasting color and nave picoted edges