Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-01-04

IN this street suit of green and gray,
the milIiner has made cap, cape and
muff to match of bright green broad
cloth, after a fashion of quarter of
a century ago. 1t is trimmed with
gray fur, and the cape is fastened with
one gray button.
important gown and rise to heights of
sartorial success if she wears an i'm
portant hat. Interview a dreSsmaker
and she will insist that the gown
should be purchased before any other
part Of the costume and that all other
things should be added thereunto, with
or without care.
In looking at the whole scheme of
dressing from the point Of view of
reporter of clothes, the safe assertion
Is that the milliners are right. No
gown can justify itself, or it's wearer
for choosing it, if it is marred by the
wrong hat. On the other hand, a good
hat which is admirably posed and
which brings out all the best there is
In a face, can redeem a gown that
would otherwise be a deplorable fail
ure. That is the way to judge the
merits.
Standards Have Changed.
There was once q time when women
and the public gave more attention to
the face than to the figure, or to that
vague and elusive thing called style.
A woman had to be pretty, and her
prettiness Of the kind that women IN
derstoOd and men admired. Her figure
might be unshapely, her gowns chosen
at random and often ill-fitting, but the
lovely face was featured and exploited
above everything else.
Surely, but imperceptibly, the view
point of the world toward cookbook
ing women changed. People demand
ed more than lovely face; they grew
artistic and wanted a lovely silhouette.
Then they grew insurgent and an
nounCed that they cared little for pref
tineSs in the face, unless it was ac-
companied by, and often overShad-
owed by, style and well-ftting clothes.
in short, women today have a greater
commend their appearance to the pub
lie. A woman was born pretty in
other centuries, and she used art and
nature to continue this facial attrac-
ton, but she left the choice of her
clothes, the lines Of Ler figure and the
making Of her corset to chance. To-
day, it Is not the least necessary for
her to be born with trace of beauty
to commend herself to far-fung pub
lie end be considered q woman of
striking appearance.
The silhouette is the thing.
This is accentuated, or probably. II
is better to say, 1t is nearly embodied
in the hat. The woman who does not
strike the top note clear and strong
might as well consider herself out of
the running In fashion and In attrae.
tiveness of personal appearance.
MARRIED by Hat.
If women In mass could onIv he
made cognizant Of the truth concern.
ing hats, the milliners would talk less
and women would look better. It is
the ignorance of the majority of wom-
en- as to what kind of hat they should
wear that gives the milliner who must
sell hats chance to mar face that
might be made attractive and ruin q
gown that has been admirably exc
cuted.
1t Is not possible to lay down laws
for the buying of hats. The tilt of q
nose, the droop of an eyebrow, would
smash every rule conceived and ex.
pressed. If woman cannot learn how
to buy hat, she should take up the
study until she Is letter perfect and
she will save time, vitality, temper and
money-a quartette that is sorely need
ed for more serious affairs in these
days.
There is no limit to the variety OF
hats, when one refers to shape, but
there Is little variety when it comes
to startling inspiration. The immense
oriental turban is the novelty and Is
worn by women who care to preserve
the Eastern look in their costumery
whenever the occasion permits 1t.
The original turban Is Of black satin
with black paradise In front and
q crystal buckle to hold the spread.
Ing feathers. 1t Is worn low on the