davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

New York.-Paris has sent her
clothes over here. We have viewed
them. They have been acceptable in
large measure and approved Of In full
measure. And yet observes promi-
nent fashion writer, we don't under
stand why they should be rs they are.
They nre somersault from what has
been. Paris has preached occurrences,
economy. simplicity and modesty. Her
cloths have been symbolic Of the tidal
wave of depression that swept over her
spirit since 1914.
The Reason for the Change.
Do you realize why Paris has sent
us over such brilliant, nlluring, rich
clothes2 1t is because American mon
ey has burst upon her with such force
that she has gone up in n balloon, fig
uratively speaking.
France settled herself down for de-
mure clothes on the day Of the war
and has kept to this contract with
herself, compelling the rest Of the
world to dress likewise; but In the
autumn of 1917 there burst upon her
astonished vision the vanguard of
America. They were not commercial
buyers; they were not cosmopolitan
multi -millionaires Who aped the French
woman. They were the true repre-
sentatives of Il country whose vastncss
and resources France had only guess
| ed ut. Boys in blue flannel sailor suits
had bank accounts of ten thousand
| dollars each; women in Red Cross
uniforms could afford five hundred dol
lars per gown, IL they wished; privntes
in khaki paid their bills without look
Ing at their change; canteen workers
hid under their collars Strings OF
pearls worth fifty thousand dollars.
All these Americans laughed and went
to the theater and ordered expensive
dinners and joked with the midlnettes.
The confusing part about this situ-
alton Is that America is getting into
the spirit Of economy and sOmberness
that Paris had year ngo. Our re-
formers preach Standardization, uni
fOrmity In clothes: our economists
preach conservation our emOtiOnalists
beg us to go about in black. without
smiles and turning our heads from the
wlles Of pleasure. as though we were
early Puritnns.
Chemise Robe.
Among the new evening gowns from
France this spring the twelfth century
tunic Is as frequently seen us In the
street gowns, but the effect Of the two
ming the designers use narrow. slim.
primitive slip Of satin or metallic
cloth the latter preferred. Over this
slip drops much wider. more vOlumi-
aous. transparent robe. 1t Is cut like
! chemise; II has half low decol-
letage; the sleeves usually cover the
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

tron In charge. A gas burner is pro-
vided for heating water or milk. The
room is heated by a coal stove.
Financing Rest Room.
In financing rest room two items OF
expense are to be considered-initial
cost Of furnishing and the annual cost
of maintenance. A rest room may be
financed wholly or partly by the wom-
ems organizations until arrangements
are made to meet the expenses through
public appropriations. 1t may BE-
financed through town or county ap-
proPriations or by private individuals,
or by any Of these in combination.
Usually the permanently established
rest room Is located at the town hall
or county courthouse since appropria-
tlons can be made annually for the
maintenance Of such rooms from pub
lie funds. When financed by private
individuals the money Is either be-
quest or gift. or the money spent for
the rest room IL considered by the mer-
chants as bringing returns In increased
trade. In such cases there Is no ex-
pense to the women making use Of the
room and the value OF the cooperation
Of wOmen's organizations lies In their
making known the location Of the
room and thus insuring a more general
use Of It.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

Gown Of black satin. short, sleeveless
and thin. The sash, which ties At
the side, 10 finished with large gold
tassei at hem Of skirt. The scarf, Of
black lace and tulie, with band os
gold lace at each end. slips under
belt at right. and 10 loosely thrown
over left shoulder.
are maroon cOlOred faille lined with
light blue tnffeta and worn over
gray gown OF crepe de chine nr satin
and chiffon.
What the Prophets whisper.
There is no disputing the fact that
French women have yielded to tho
American desire to wear short skirts
on the street. and the skirts In these
new clothes nrc both narrow and short.
The women who appeared on the street
in them without leggings or high shoes
have crented unpleasant criticism.
which should compel them to change
their style.
The smnrt women run Logging or
n high cloth-top boot well up under
the hem Of these short skirts. and the
effect Is military and pleasing. But
nt the very moment that we are nc
style Of shor, and narrow garments.
the prophets say that the rcnl French
skirts nrc growing longer. And tho
smart American designers say tho
same. They nrc making the garments
slim, without using nn inch Of surplus
material, but they nrc dropping them
to the ankles, emitting the lcggings
and the high boots, ana coming hack
to the iint.hcelcd pumps with broad
ribbon bows ncross the vnmp.
Three or four OF the best houses In
New York emphasize these skirts. and
those who are tired Of the brevity Of
the skirts we have worn for years nre
accepting this new type Of gnrmcnt
with more than the usual enthusiasm.
If II hnd fullncss II would be impOs.
siblc for street usngc. but It's narrow
ness and the slight bias lipc mt the
sides. that comes from tho mntcrini
being pulled backward md upward,
mnk" It n pleasing picture on tho
street md nn artistic contrast TO the
prevailing garment
Miles Of TuIie.
Even when France starts out to b.
icinurc she changes her mind and gets
little fling of gnycty into tho most
sombcr gown. For example, she
mikes II blnck sntin restaurant frOck
In the style of the eleventh century,
with the long chcmlsc. the slight gir.
ding nbout the hips md the hnlf.low.
dccollctngc. Well md good. hut shs
IN wcnry OF the blnck surface by tho
time she gets 10 the nrmholcs md the
ncckllnc, so she swings In n pnir Of
non'ine Chinese sleeves Of jndc green
tullc edged with jet. md she winds n
narrow scnrf Of tullc once around tho
neck. pulls iH fullncss once over the
chin nnd weights its ends with Jet tns.
s.ls. When green isn't used. kings
blue or wine color IN chosen.
Every French designer used what
have been competition over there
nm 10 who could reduce the amount of
tullc In Frnncc most quickly.
One designer took II into her head
to omit whit" collnrs md usc m n
substitute tullc wrapped nbout tho
neck and tied In n bow. This fashion
In already considered quite sfnnrt over
here. IN restaurants, for lunchcons
and for amy nfYnir where the hat In m.
tnined the tullc which covers Il forms
this collar, md sometimes drops In
long ends from the nnpe Of the neck
10 the knees.
Copyright. isis. By tbs Mcclure Nsws0a.
psf 6yndicstA)
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
American Wealth
andGay Clothes

police, and those who care for the
Quietness Of distinguished clothes can
put one of these over slightly worn
and much-used frock, thereby enclos-
ing an old friend in new frame and
presenting brave front to world
that Is not too critical in these war
days.
But Paris does not stop Mt these de-
mure cnpes. Her ecstntic mood shows
itself in cnpricious and exquisite gnr-
ments called capcs, which are fash
ioned for afternoon and evening wear.
They are made In Chinese colors, In
Slavic tones, Of satin and chiffon and
metal embroidery. Sometimes they
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

Tunle Of black and white figured fou.
lard over . narrow slip OF white
crepe do chine. The short, narrow
skirt 10 finished At the hem with
black fringe. Note unusual collar.
entire arm. but nrc cut to full hnlf
foot nwny from II. and the entire
effect IN one Of exquisite yelling.
Doucet does this In the most bril-.
limit manner. nnd he shows his CON.
pctitors something In the wny Of mn
undcrslip. mnklng n corslct and then
. short skirt Of soft gold tissue. which
gives fur more graceful. undulnting
movement Of the body when II In seen
bcncnth the transparent chcmisc.
There nrc chcmlse gowns Of rnrs
lace. seldom In white. but In ivory tinta
ind also In cloudy gray. These arc
dropped over n slim undcrslip Of tis.
sue. silver md steel ns well ns gold.
and the note Of color is given by nm
extraordinary sash. II mny bc Of chi.
nesc blue tafYeta. Of splendid Chinese
brocnde. Of deep gold and black bro.
cnded ribbon, and one end of II always
trails down the back pnnci ind adds
TO the brilliancy Of the short train.
We have detnure cnpcs made 0f II.
berdins and serge which are ~ serv.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
SPECIALISTS HELP TO
ES1AOLjoH REST ROOMS.

Representatives Of the United
States department Of agriculture
are glad to give assistance to or.
gnniZatiOns OF women desiring to
establish rest rooms. Specialists
OF the bureau OF markets are
particularly Interested In pro-
viding such quarters for women
In marketing centers. A recent
publication Of the bureau Of
markets. "Rest Rooms for Won.
en- In Marketing Centers." dis.
cusses the plan and gives spe-
cIhc advice on the various de-
tails. Frequently the county
home demonstration agent or
county agent may be able to aid
In the enterprise.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
Need az Influence.

Every one OF JUS needs infiucnc"
md some Impulse outside of ourselves
10 compel us 10 strive for our idenis.
Tho best impulse that cnn upllft the
life In the friendship Of Jesus. He
snys: 'Ye nrc ns friends II yc do whnt.
sOcxer I command YOU"
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
REST ROOMS FOR
NEEDS OF WOMEN
Clubs Work With Local OrQaniza.
tlons to Establish These
Conveniences.
FINANCING IS NOT DIFFICULT
FurnIshInss Of WslI.EquIpped Room
Should Dc Simple, Comfortable
and ourabIe-Members Donate
Pisces Of Furniture.

Rest rooms have been established In
more than 200 counties In the United
States to meet the needs Of country
women In town on business. They pro-
vide q place where the farm woman
has . right. without asking any favors.
to the use Of facilities for rest and re-
treatment. They have been established
by woman's rural organizations In CO.
operation with other local Orgnnizn-
tions, with individuals. and with vii
lage. town or county authorities. by
vate markets.. and by Individual mer-
chants. Where farm women's organi-
cations have been interested In estab.
fishing rest rooms. local farm wOmen's
clubs have been able to arouse the nee
essary community interest in the need
for rest rooms to insure their financial
support This has been done through
cooperating with other local farm
women's clubs. with organizations Of
women in town. with civic leagues, and
with chambers of commerce. and with
county agents.
Room In Oklahoma.
In cooperating with other clubs In
establishing 4 rest room any local farm
women's club mny take the initiative.
A rest room was established In nn Okla
homa town through the cooperation OF
four women's rural clubs. A committee
from the club interviewed the business
men Of the city. but met with little en-.
couragement. They were told that rest
rooms had been tried and were fail
ure, that some Of the stores Ind rest
rooms already. but that they were not
used by the country people. After
three weeks Of effort a member OF the
committee learned OF vacant room In
the courthouse that could be used for
rest room II permission were obtained
from the county commissioners. Mem
bera Of the committee md their friends
called upon each Of the commissioners
to request the use Of the room and TO
ask his advice ~ to how 20 proceed.
Al n result the matter was brought
formally before the commissioners nt
their next meeting and the room placed
at the disposal Of the members OF
these organizations.
The furnishings Of . wcil.equippcd
rest room should be simple. comfort.
able and durable. A. mn example Of
rest rooms furnished by n group OF
country women's clubs whose members
personally donate pieces Of furniture
Or secure them m gifts from various
interested merchants, one mny be cited
which 10 provided with rocking chairs.
straight chairs. q table With reading
material, oil.cioth covered lunch tables,
Q couch. . crib. and . screen. Free
Telephone service and electric lights
are furnished. Clean sheets and pill.
low cases may be secured from the ma.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
ltchinu Burning Skins.

For eczemns, rnshes. itchlngs, irritn-
lions. pimplcs. dandrufr. sore hands.
and bnby humors, Cuticurn Sonp and
Ointment are supremcly effective. Tor
free samples address "Cutlcurn, Dept.
x. Boston" At druggists and by mail.
SOap %, Ointment % md 5O-Adv.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
Qadsa ReAaaneA.

Did Il ever occur 10 you that the
signs Of Gods presence are granted
10 the farmer more thnn my other
mani Look around your home and
1aids and ~.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
Never Satl,Ned.

'"rhcy sny that mules nrc coming
into their own In this wnr."
ayes. nnd bet they're kicking about
IT,"
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

Try This on Your Sofa.
ic-My. you have n pretty little
hand. May l shake It?
Shc-Sure; go ahead nnd ring II.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25
Not Quite as Good,

"What did papa do when you asked
him to give you my hnndT
He-llc put down his foot.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

TO keep clean and healthy take DR..
PIcrce's Pleasant Pellets. They rcgu'
late liver, bowels and stomnch.-Adv.
The Arvada enterprise., 1918-04-25

Some of our rising poets write nd.
vcrtising jlnglcs for ycnst mnnufac'
turcrs.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
HOUSE SETS S2,500,0OO
TO BUY D. ( c. CANAL
River and Harbor Committee Plans
to Increase Sum for Improv
ing the Delaware.

Washington, Dee &c Congressman j.
Hampton Moore. of Philadelphia, sue
rccded in having inserted In the House
annual bill Yesterday an appropriation
wherew7th to ptrfchase the Chesapeake
and Delaware canal at a cost OF s.. 800
900. Negotiations for the taking over Of
the canal virtually have been completed,
il is stated as part Of the inland water
way from Beaufort inlet. y. G.. to Boston.
The rivers and harbors committee Of
which Mr. Moore is a member, al a closed
meeting held Yesterday. 70 begin formula
ton al the annual appropriation bill,
increased the appropriation for the
Delaware riyer from the $500. 600. esti-
mated by the secretary Of war a.
necessary, to s., 500 600, or five times
the amount IL also multiplied the sum
estimated for the Schuylhll nvcr two
and one-haf Tires. from Si00, 900 TO
81 900. 600
On Monday the secretary of war. Mr..
Baker. asked Congress for $780, 600 for
the Delaware and 100000 for the
Schuylkill Immediately Congressman
] Hampton Moore, Of Philadelphia,
aided BY Congressman Costello, a mem
Der of the rivers and harbors commit
tee, began emphasizing to members OF
the committee the absolute necessity of
being more liberal with the Philadel-
phia rivers, pointing out their immense
importance to industry with particular
reference 10 the administration plans
in regard to the development of ma
tional commerce and the merchant marine.
The argument carried conviction
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
| KAISER IS GREATEST
CRIMINAL, SAYS GEORGE
British King Regards German
Cousin With Loathing and Hatred !;
Regards Hun as Monster.

London, Dec. 5.-What does King
George really think sof his cousin, the
former German Emperor?
This is n question that has been often
asked but has never received anything
approaching an authoritative answer.
According TO writer in the Daily News,
which is usually very careful as to the
trustworthness of what it prints, King
George regards him as "the greatest
criminal in the world today
The writer says that hc was talking
few days ago with a woll-known states
man who has many opportunities during
the war and especially lately. to hear
ing the King express his views of the
Kaiser. And he thus SUMMARIZES what the
well K own statesman told him:
MY informant says that the King Is
feelings and expressions are SO strong
that they could hardly be reproduced YER
hatim but that the substance Of them is
that the Kaiser is the greatest criminal
in the world today. that he is directly
responsible for the outrages on the Bel
gan and French civil populations for the
bombing and air raids on the innocent in
habitants of unfortifed towns; for the
torpcdoing of passengers and hospital
ships and the sinking Of survivors in their
boats: for the first use of poisoned gas.
the poisoning of wells, the destruction
Of works Of art, of historic buildings, Of
beautiful towns; and the machinery Of
industrial life and potential reconstrIc-
ton: that he has not only permitted
these things toprocccd, but was in may
cases a personal assentcr Ia and director
of them and that for such n man no re-
tributivc penalty, however severe, would
be undcservcd.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
200 CHILDREN DRUNK.
Passaic School Pupils Get Liquor
at Drug Stores and Saloons,
They Say.

New York, Dec st was reported to
Frederick Shepherd, superintendent of
Passaic, y j.. schools, by Miss Alma L.
Smith. principal of School No. 2, last
night. that OF the 500 pupils there, POO
whose ages range from nine TO fourteen
Years have come to their studies under
the influence Of liquor during two months
Miss Smith. who has CONDUCTED an
investigation as TO where the children
received the intoxicants, reported that
they told her it was easy TO obtain gin,
beer or whiskey at any saloon in Pas
sale
The conditions, according to Miss
Smith, were discovered when several
little girls fell asleep at their desks and
could not he aroused On questioning
them, the principal said she learned that
when liquor could not be had a drug com
posed Of ca per cent alcohol and 81 per
cent ether was bought in ) and 10 cent
vials by the pupils. who called it white
whiskey.'
IN some cases the pupils said they had
been given whiskey or beer at home to
make them grow mp big and strong.
For two months, Miss Smith said,
between ten and twenty pupils daily
were IN q stupor about ten or fifteen
minutes after they sat At their desks.
DR. Shepherd will present the report
to the Grand Jury and demand immediate
action
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
DEATHS.

AILENDER-In this city. on December 4.
1915 Franklin Aiiendcr. aged 81 years
Relatives. friends. Oriental Lodge No. -
A. r. g. 4 NJ. heokuk Tribe. No. Z. impd
O r NJ. and employees of II & H. 90
are invited TO attend the funeral services
Peoples 323 West Twenty-sixth street on
saturday afternoon. December Z. At 2
O'Clock. lnterment at Rivervicw ceme-
ter4
BETTS-ln this city. on December s. 1918.
Evelyn Nj. wife of Edw. Belts. Jr.
Funeral services al the residence of Mrs
Edw. T. Belts. 1909 Giipin avenue, sat
,lrday afternoon at = O'Clock. IntermenU
private. Please omit flowers.
LE&DEKAfAN-In this city on December
,. 1919. Hannah NJ. wife of Thomas r.
tenderman. aged tS years
Relatives and friends are inv, ted 10 attend
husband. 4lS Taylor street on Friday
afternoon. December o. al I O'Clock IN
terment At i.awncroft cemetery.
TURNER-in this ,.ity. on December 4
1915 Helen l.. infant daughter OF Ed
ward 6. and Gertrud, NJ Turner aged
II months.
Relatives and friends are invited Ia attend
the funeral services at The residence OF her
parents. 2il6 Aarke. street on Friday
afternoon at o'clock. interment at River
view cemetery.
TALIEY Ar Beaumont Gal on NoveD
Der 2S, 1918, William =. -on of Isabelle
End the late Thomas L. Taiey. aged so
years
Relatives and frlends are invited to attend
the funeral services al the residence Of his
sister Airs. Prank Cloud 1915 West street
on Friday afternoon at O'Clock Inter-
ment private
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
SALEM COUNTY AFFAIRS.
Various Matters Concerning Penn
Grove and Its Vicinity.

Penns Grove, y j Dec. 5.-Exten-
sion Of the Salem and Penn Grove Trac-
ton Line to Woodbury. via Bridgeport,
Gibbstown and Paulsboro is proposed
BARRIERS wharf has been leased for
passenger and freight service between
Penn's Grove and Philadephia The
steamer Interstate Park has been put on
the route
Dennis c. Fahy and George NJ Pyne,
Republicans, have been elected members
Of the Penn's Grove Borough Council.
Stanton b. Cole and William Sho maker,
Republicans have been elected justices
Of the peace at Penn's Grove Judge"
Duffy is one Of the retiring justices
j. NJ Layman has been elected assessor
and ID. p. Featherer tax collector at
Penn's Grove
Rev. Matthew Mather Of Penn's
Grove and Rev Samuel j Dornton Of
Pittston, Pa, have exchanged Methodist
Protestant pastorates.
Rev. o. b. Close of Newark, n J., has
been invited To the pastorate Of tho
Carney's Point Presbyterian Church.
Me{hodists viii erect a 10000 church
building at Carney's Point
b. Noel Gross Of Penn Grove has been
elected coroner of Salem county
j. Fowler Powers, ] Morris Reeves,
Charles r. Carson, Harold H. Smith,
George Gaventa, Edward A Hero J,
Samuel r. Patrick, Arthur G. Lounsbury
J. Gilbert Borton. Harry r Gray, Albert
r. Brandriff. Qunton Is Rankin, Joseph
s. May and Samuel NJ Layman have been
lected members Of the Salem county
Board of Freeholders.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
CONTRACT CANCELLED.

Charles Topkis, who has been uniting
IN his efforts in behalf Of every activity
of the Red Cross. has received the toi-
lowing appreciation, which explains ltseif
MIR Charles Topkis, Twentieth and
Boulevard Wilmington, Della.
My dear MIR Topkis The Exec'rtive.
Committee of the Delaware Chapter OF
tre Red Cross nag instructed me y ex-
press 10 won its gratitude for your action
in canceIIing the large remaining con-
tracts for gauze. which now that the var
il over is no longer needed for surgical
dressings and which would have been an
expense Of many thousands TO us to full
FILL
This is only one Of the many times IN
which you have helped our Burean o.
supplies with unfailing judgment and
constant loyalty to its interests rather
than to your own, and we desire TO send
YOU this small expression Of our apprecIa-
tior of what you have done. Very sincere
~ vmIrs. Emily r Bissell, Secretary
Delaware Chapter Red Cross.
Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1918-12-05
DIX MEN TO BE GOOD.
Discharged Men to Continue to
Keep Up Morale Of
Service.

Camp Dix, Wrightstown, n. j., Dec. D.
Official recognition and praise of the
Camp Dix idea, originating last Sunday
with 900 discharged soldiers of the Tank
Corps, who pledged each other that rs
long rs they continued to wear the uni
form during the four-months' period per-
mttcd after discharge. they would re-
spect every military regulation and ccre-
mony, came yesterday from Major Cen
cral Scott, camp commander. The cH-
ample of the tank men has spread to every
rehabilitation organization in camp and
headquarters officers proudly stated that
with thousands Of men released from scrv-
ice here during the last week the first
complaint has yet to hc heard OF a man
DISCHARGED from Camp Dix conducting
himself in n manner other than that tc-
coming on American S,Ndlcr
The discharged soldier who disgraccS
the uniform of the american army by has
failure to conduct himself rs soldier
should, during tie period after service that
nc wears such uniform. offers open insult
to every man in the service. including the
1000 900 American heroes IN Europe.
This should bc recognized by the public
as IT is by all soldiers, and any cx-soldicr
so defiiing the service should he treated
as his conduct deserves This Is the
sentiment which Camp Dix men have
asked herslicd nightly IN all welfare
entertainment centres The enlisted men
further say that the discharged soldier
discracing his uniform should be placed
in the came category IL Iii III overseas
lighters place the fellow WHO sends home
letters attacking the morale of American
troops IN France ~ intimatinr that they
have become har rlnkers and have OF her
wise lowered heir lnrral standards while
in the war zone
Under new orders Of the War Depart
ment announced yesterday, approxi-
mately 1900 white mon and J 900 ne
grocs who were to remain rs :hc perma
nent personnel Of four trai ing hattalIons
will be discharged rs soon rs their papers
can l,c prepared Only the permanent
training cadres of 81 men each for y COM
panics will g retained This action IS
probably taken in vicw of the assignment
Of tnc 5oth Infantry 81 Regulars to the
camp as a pcriran2n' garrison