Evening star., 1918-06-30
MI CthesGov
From the Pacific CoatSt
obetheA American Fur Head adquarersNest Hats Of the
Season-Iistoy to in Autumn Fashions

not tiny fringe of it on chiffon
ruffle, as in other days. but it is used
In a bold and lavish manner, such as
twenty-inch bands, medieval sleeves
and huge girdles with bows at the
back.
1t does not take superfine reckon
ing to realize that the American seal
skin is about the only fur that can
be used in this generous fashion. The
stiff-haired pelts cannot be manipu-
lated into pieces of a garment; they
must remain as separate entities used
as accessories.
So. summing it all up. we have an
other bit of fashionable fabric that
A." 1t has been pointed out that this
label should be changed because it is
not as provincial as our ardent pa
trfots in the fabric world would seem
to think. it should be-. You see. we
forget that U. S. A. also stands for
the Union of South Africa and the
United States of Australia, and the
label would mean nothing to masses
of people outside of America.
We want to become an exporting
it would need constant explanation to
a long list of foreign countries as to
what the Made in u. S. A" label
stood for. There are some who be-
in America" However. there are OBJ
jections to that also. because of Can
ada and South America, but it means
a great deal more to the world than
does the label Made in U. S. A."
In using peltry we walk backward
in history. In what we moderns call
the early history Of Europe much that
was lovely was done with peltry. And
further back, when artificial heat was
not known. when men and women
lived in damp huts or palaces, when
life was crude and raw and self-sacri-
ficing in way that we may never
know, even under the exigencies of a
of covering the body and making
ones self not only beautiful. but COM
Portable.
And this is the reason that the
early in the season and intend to
emphasize 1t for next autumn and
winter; we are walking backward
into history for inspiration in clothes:
We thought we knew something of
medievalism through the flashes of it
that the designers have given US for
the last year, but it seems to the
prophets that we are going to tumble
backward into it, and that our
clothes will present fair example Of
of civilization when it was the occu-
patton of men to kill and women to
stay at home.
You remember the outside blouse,
sometimes fashioned as straight
cuirass. which was brought on the
fashion market two years ago? A
woman who asked for one at a smart
shop the other day was airily told
that that line of fashion was entirely
closed out. Yet the woman knew that
it was just coming in. and that it
would probably grow in Importance
as summer advanced.
This new garment is genuine
medieval jerkin. 1t can be copied
from the men who fought with Will
liam the First. that William Of Morse
blood and pirate traditions who, as
history describes him. landed in
England and brought with him blood
shed, devastation, new laws and new
fashions"
These are made today of peltry, as
they were in those days. and there is
an odd little glimpse of relationship
between the siIhouettes of 1866 and
1918. Those Norsemen girdlcd their
legs with leather thongs coming
above half shoes Of leather. and there
is the silhouette of the woman of the
hour. with her long. laced boots or
her high. fitted spats
Those men wore the tunic with it's
fur sleeves and jersey body, or the
otner way around, to be accurate and