The Jasper news., 1918-02-21

ms been very definitely against stand
ardization Of feminine attire In any
form. In the belligerent countries,
which, after all, are our best aud only
really practical guides in this matter,
attempts Of the kind have been limited,
so far, to control, In France, of the
manufacture Of shoes.
AS far as other branches of women's
dress are concerned, the consensus Of
opinion In all countries seems to. be
"hands off ~ The industry reminds one
of that insidlous grass, which once
planted In a certain soil, creeps every
where under the ground. mingiing with
every other plant that grows, twining
Its tendrils about their roots, 80 that
to uproot 1t means to kill the thing 1t
clings to, as well. Not that the spread
of this industry has had a deleterious
effect upon others existing alongside
of 1t; the contrary is the truth. But
their interdependence Is SO compli-
Gated, and so cunningly entwined, that
the effect Of brusquely. checking the
growth of the one, Is problem before
which the best brains in the country
may well pause, before they begin to
experiment with their theories.
Governments interference In the
clothing Of their people is not new.
We read Of sumptuary laws all
through the middle ages, and Of the
defiance of them by the wives and
daughters of the burghers, who could
not prevent their womenfolk from
adopting material, furs and velyets, re-
served by royal decree for the aristoc-
racy.
The aristocracy of Florence would
notice the fur-lined sleeves Of the mer-
chants wife, and one Of them-prob-
ably very well-born and hard-favored
lady-would be sure to complain to,
her husband, who then, If he valued
his peace, would bring the matter to
the attention of the authorities. Often
the offending wife would be brought
to justice; quite as often she would
escape. At any rate, punishment OF
fines and imprlsonments never seemed
to leave the nobility in the enjoyment
of their privileges, for all history and
memoirs of the times are full of cases
Of such rebellion.
If our government should make any
such decree, in our day, we should
probably see very little opposition to
it. The country seems to be in con-
dition Of amazing docility. Who would
have believed that q few short months
would see a food administration with
arbitrary powers, government manage
ment of railroads, and the steady and
swift approach Of prohibltion7 Take
the very question of woman's apparel.
The limitation of yardage was vol
untary measure, adopted by all con-
cerned, before the government had
made one move toward the industry.
So with that much settled, we pass
to the condition of the sartorial out
look for spring, with quiet minds. 1t
Is an attractive one, In which individ-
ual good taste, and good judgment,
will have full play, within the limits
Of four and one-half yards of material.
Dressmakers have acknowledged al
ready that this suggestion Of limita-
ton, this difficulty, has spurred their
invention. 1t is like the rules Of a
game, which are necessary to insure
good contest.
Nothing very startling; narrow sill
houette, far better managed than Its
predecessor; charming details, clever
cutting, with a great discretion in dec
Grafton and accessories-these seem to
be the leading features of Americas
first wartime spring. They promise
an excellent choice among garments
which will suit our mood, give practi.
cal service, and keep the whole vexed
problem Of woman's apparel from rev.
olutionary measures which might have
far-reaching serious consequences.
Copyright, 1918, by the Mcclure Newspa.
per syndicate.)