davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
ALLIES GRABBING
MANY PRISONERS
SUCCESSFUL RAIDS BY FRENCH
AND BRITISH FORCES.
COUNTER ATTACKS REPULSED
Making it Hot for the Hun All Along
the Western Front. No Rest
for the Enemy over
Sunday.

London, July Successful raids
on various sectors of the Picardy front
were reported by Field Marshal Haig
in his official war office statement
from the British front today.
"A hostile post at Aveluy Woods
was rushed yesterday afternoon" the
statement said.
Guns and Prisoners Taken.
West of Dermancourt I'VE raided
the enemy trenches and took a few
prisoners. A successful minor opera
ton to the northwest of Albert early
our positions and the capture of thirty
four prisoners together with some ma
chine guns.
Counter Attacks RepuIsed.
"A hostile counter attack northwest
of Albert later in the night was beat
en- off.
North of Albert, southeast of Arras
east of Robecq and in the neighbor-
hood of Merris and the Ypres-Com-
mines Canal there was hostile artil-
lery hghtlng.
French Advance Lines.
Paris, July French troops ad.
vanced their lines slightly on five
mile front northwest of Chateau Thi-
cry and in an operation to the south
east of Asloy, took two hundred pria-
oners the French war office state
ment announced today. ....
Minor operations on other portions
of the Marine and the Disc fronts re-
Quilted in the capture of forty-six pris-
oners.
Between Montdidier and Noyon
French raids resulted in the capture
of twenty prisoners" the communicate
said.
French Take Many Prisoners.
South of the Aisne the French cap
tured a resistance center to the north
of Cutry and took forty-six prisoners.
The French improved their positions
on front of five miles bordering the
American sector on the north and ad
vanced their lines to the east of the
railway between Cocy-En-Ouoq-Vinly.
South of Osly and west of scissors
sharp fighting following a German
counter attack, enabled the French to
maintain their new positions and take
two hundred prisoners"
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
J. NJ. EEMBLE MOURNS LOSSES
Son Killed at Iowa Wesleyan College,
Wife Died Shortly After, and
Now Sister Has Suecumbed.

Muscatine, Ia, July In less than
seven weeks time, the death sum-
mons came to three of the immediate
relatives of John NJ. Kemble. former
collector of internal revenue for the
Southern Iowa district, and brother
Of w. E. Kemble of Oskaloosa. The
tragic death of his son, Charles KEN
Bile, occurred at the Iowa Wesleyan
college at Mount Pleasant on the Sth
of May. The second death. that of
his wife, occurred on Thursday, June
20, while his Oldest sister, Mrs. Emma
G. Hadley, passed away just one week
later at her home at 1853 Lucas street
The death of Mrs. Hadley was the
termination of brief illness of but
two weeks duration.
Emma G. Kemble, the oldest child
of Mr.. and Mrs. Amos Kemble of 1853
Lucas street. was born in Jasper
county, Ia, September IA, 1850. Dur.
ing practically her entire life she has
been a resident of Iowa, except for
a few years spent in Indiana. She
came TO Muscatine in 1879 and since
that time has been a continuous resi-
dent of this city.
Miss Kemble was united in mar.
riage with Francis Hadley in 1863,
and TO this union three children were
born. Mr.. Hadley preceded her in
death twelve years ago. Beside her
aged parents, who are more than
ninety years of age, Mrs. Hadley
leaves to mourn their loss three chill.
dren.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
Railroads Unable to Aaree.

District Superintendents of the M
& st. l.. and of the Rock Island met
last week in Grinnell 10 discuss the
proposition of consolidating the Grin
nell-Montezuma branch of the M. &
st. l.. with the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Rock Island division. 1t is said they
could not agree, that the M. & st. l.
would not accept the Rock Island pro
position and that Director General Nc
Adoo had been advised of the action
1t is not known what further step!
will be taken.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
Iowa is Doinu Well,

Iowa led all other states of the
Union in the sales of War Savings
stamps during the month of May, ac-
cording to a Treasury department re-
port just published. Sales in Iowa dur
ing the month were s6.023, 633.51s Ne
braska and the District of Columbia
were in second and third place. AS a
result Of the remarkable record made
in May, the state jumps from ninth
to third place in total sales. Since the
campaign was started last December.
Iowan's have purchased $l2,TG1 ,5S1 80
according to the report.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
TO TAKE WIRES AND PHONES
Presidet Wilson Asks For Power to
Assume Control Of Telegraph and
Telephone Lines.

Washington, July president VIII
son today asked congress for the pow
er to take over the telegraph and
telephone lines.
In a letter to the Interstate Com
merce committee Of the House Presi
dent Wilson endorsed letters stimuli
taneously sent by Postmaster General
Burleson and Secretary of the Navy
Daniels saying that the powers asked
were necessary to prevent suspension
of the service of the telegraph lines
and to guard against military secrets
and government communication.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
FALSE MOVE COSTS A LIFE
Knoxville Marshal Shoots Flagler
Man, Believing Him Armed, While
Under Influence of Drink.

Knoxville, Ia, July City Mar
shall Homer Nye shot Jim Kearsey of
Flagler, Iowa, last evening when
searching him for liquor Kearsey
died a few moments later.
Witnesses say the boy jerked away
from Raeky Jones, who was holding
him during the search, and threw his
hand toward his hip pocket, whereup.
on Nye drew his gun and shot him.
1t was found the boy was unarmed.
Kearsey had been drinking. His
mother lives at Flagler. She is al
most distracted over the tragedy
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
How Many shinoIes.

To figure the number of shingles Il
house will require, proceed as follows:
Measure the length Of the roof to be
covered. Measure the distance from
one cave over the peak to the other
cave. These dimensions necessarily
are in feet. Multiplyfthe DIMENSIONS
together. Divide byi16O. The lauotlent
will be the number Of thousand shin.
les, required. TO determine the number
of bundles multiply this number by
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
Bibles For Boys.

An emergency appeal sent out by
the American Bible Society for help
to furnish bibles to every American
boy in the service. was presented TO
all the churches in Oskaloosa Sunday.
and collections were. made for that
purpose. According to the society, 81
will furnish four men with bibles,
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
Uncle Sam at crinae,l

The city Of Grinneil observed Ma.
tional War Savings day last Friday by
putting Uncle Sam over the top of
fifty-foot ilagpole and raising between
$4,000 and $4,000 in the cash saIcs
of War Savings Stamps. Uncle Sam
mounted one step OF The ladder with
each sale of $lOo and he was pretty
nearly worn out by the time the crowd
had finished buying Stamps.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
TILLMAN is NEAR DEATH.
South Carolina Scion Suffers Para
Iytic Stroke.

Washington, D. C, July 1.-Benja-
min r. Tillman, democratic senator
from South Carolina, is seriously ill
at his home here. His recovery is
regarded as doubtful His left side
is completely paralyzed and he has
been suffering from cerebral hemor-
rhage since Thursday.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
Famous Vessel is Wrecked.

San Francisco. July 1.-The schoon-
err Anna Larsen made famous during
the Hindu plot trials here, as the
vessel in which the Germans pro-
posed 70 transport revolutionists to
Indis landed at Maiden Islands today
but was wrecked. The crew was re-
ported saved
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
$17o,o3s,394 SUBSCRIBED.
To Second Red Cross War Fund
Drive.

Washington, July Red Cross sub
scriptions in the second war fund
drive amounted to $17O,03S,S94, with
returns still coming in, national head
quarters today announced. The first
fund amounted to $110,475,125, of
which $17,S95.211 was refunded to or
retained by local chapters.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04

Herman Federn.
Charles Nordstrom.
j. Rohr.
Roy 0strander
Roy SCHUYLER, Is years old.
Mrs. F. A. Lofliss.
Louis Soiset.
]. P. Shriever.
John Simeon.
Seven unidentified women, one
thought to be Mrs. Koehler of South
Sioux City.
Seven unidentified men.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
CREW is SAVED.
American Steamship California De
stroyed by Mine.

Washington. July 1.-The crew OF
the American steamship California,
9.125 tons, which was struck by e.
mine, have been landed at French
port the Navy department announced
today.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
prom un the Limbs.

A few minutes spent in propping
up the heavily laden fruit limbs may
save many dollars worth of fruit. be-
sides saving a fruit tree for future
usefulness.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
How Much For Your

How much Of your income do you
fritter away and how much do you
invest in w s. s.? Remember that
many OF the men at the front give
their lives.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
TEN Of LANDRY's
TAILORs KILLED
FORMER osKALoosA MAN VIC
TIM OF SIOUX CITY FIRE
THlRT-NINE KNOWN DEAD
Rescue Workers Put in All Day Sun
day among the Ruins. Five More
Persons Were Still Miss
ing Today.

Sioux City, Iowa, July Ten Tail.
ors employed by Phil Landry, were
among the 40 or more victims of the
fire in the collapsed Oscar Ruff build
ing on Saturday afternoon. Mr.. Landry
came here about Is years ago from
0skaloosa where he had been cutter
in F. d. Boyer Merchant Tailor estab-
lishment. He engaged in business here
for himself and has built up a big
business and >prospered. Mr.. Landry
was not at his place Of business at
the time of the catastrophe so himself
escaped.
The Oskaloosa herald. (Oskaloosa, Mahaska County, Iowa) 1885-1919, 1918-07-04
The Dead.

Alfred j. Hanson. AiH -
Joe Awe.
Ole X. Roissum.
Ole Z. Running.
John Levine.
Mrs. Mabel cayens (colored).
Ben G. Wood.
Mrs. Hester C. English.
Walter C. Nelson. Is years old.
Charles Kugel.
Merle Kugel.
Myrtle Hongslo.
John Stolz.
James Harp
Mrs Margaret Haley. emt ~
Helen KoehIer. daughter OF Mrs
koeiIief o. south Sioux City.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
TEST STYLES IN SHOES ARE WITHOUT HIGH FRENCH HEEL

rate affairs) Is slightly accordeon
pleated. so that while seemingly very
narrow 1t is on tho contrary yerv
full. The blouse with this good skir,
Is made Of black MORE, with satin
collar, satin sleeves held In by moIra
cuffs end a very deep girdle Of MORE
with long sash ends.
As every sort of material Is com.
bined this season we also note a dis.
position to blend colors as har.
moniously as possible. Sand and blue
is favored combination and blus
with gray Is likewise very popular
A new shade, called artillery red. an.
pears wildly on many gowns, blouses
and coats Of sombre tone. Often II I,
introduced only I'm a strip OF vivid
beads set in among the ends OF n
fringed sash. or, again. introduced AZ
light buttons or set underneath silken
fasteners of heavy cord on dress or
coat and allowed to show through.
/ have here mentioned the general
trend of things as indicated from the
first showings; there are no startling
changes to worry about. Fashion
makers are kind indeed in these times
when they bring out new ideas 80
suggestive Of innumerable ways TO re-
model our old ones-and this, I Sis.
pect. is what most of us will do.
Don't you?
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
BY ALICE ZISKA SNYDER.
PARIS, Aug. :

Paris, aug. "a.
" ACH Of the great Paris dress
r. making establishments has its
- distinctive atmosphere. One
breathes of the smart set with its con-
slant search for the eccentric and
original Another Is Individually the
shrine where worships the boulevards'
latest star, and where she will order
the gown that will prove the capitals
nine days wonder. A third smacks of
the nouveaux riches: OF Danae's
golden shower that pours from the
pockets Of the war profiteer. A fourth
caters to the professional beauty. while
a nth radiates that Elusive something
that reveals the haunt OF the grande
dame, which latter Is the impression
produced by Doeuillet in the Place
Vendome. His place is more a salon
than a showroom.
Even the mannequins have the poise
of the mondaine. Your particular
vendeuse sits beside you discreetly
murmuring into your ear the various
good points of the frocks that file past;
and through the apartment comes and
goes Monsieur Doeuillet playing the
host; immaculate, perfectly groomed.
the red ribbon OF the Legion Of Honor
glnting in his buttonhole.
There is neither rush nor hurry.
The mannequins do not dart through
the rooms as though fearful that some
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
HOW TO PREVENT W0oLLENs
SHRINKING.

A NEW idea has been developed
~ successfully which will aid
the housewife not only in con-
serving but also in saving her money
We must all take care Of the wool we
are allowed to wear. and with some
people wool Is almost n necessity
while many others prefer It, But un-
less we can make the amount OF wool
available do we will have to go with
out.
For those who now have woollen
underwear it is time steps were taken
to preserve the garments. To do this
one must be careful how they are
laundered. For a preventive agains.
shrinking and rough drying, espe-
cially for children. piece Of thin
wood is used, which is made the same
size as the garment. A paper is laid
on the garment and after the shape
is drawn of with pencil and cut out
TIE pattern is transferred TO a thin
piece OF board, which is cut out and
finished with no rough edges.
The shape should be made with tho
arms outstretched. When tho garment
is wet 1t is stretched over the board
This will prevent shrinkage and save
the garment more than doubling the
life of it. Sweaters. caps, stockings,
&C. should have patterns made the
same way. Stockings will not shrink.
II dresses were hung from hangers
the stretching of hens, shoulders,
necks, &c, would be saved. Chlldrens
clothes must be taken care Of. and
most mothers think their offspring
must have wool while they are In
fants at least.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
|Oorsetess Figure Again Predonaes in Doeullets Fall
Creations-Son1e of the Models Described

waist with a single button and the
skirt, though narrow. Is not inordi-
nately short.
Though the French Government has
dccrecd that this winters shoe shall
rot be as high as 1t has been hereto
fore-this 30 that leather may be con-
served-Doeuillets skirts will reach
the boot top. thus eliminating the in
artistic display of stocking between
hem and footgear. Most OF his tai
lored skirts have two pockets set dag
ona!ly on the front breadth. The
coats, likewise, are provided with this
primary necessity so dear TO the heart
OF all mankind and yet usually sternly
denied to the fashionable woman.
Doeuillet affects blue serge and
plaid for street suits and Sits the sides
rf the jackets 10 the waist. Silk braid
Is much used with navy serge. Bone
buttons are the rule and the narrow
sEdle tying in front Is found on many
of his coats. These details are car
ried out in a smart black and white
check that has a seal collar and cuffs.
short BOX Coats Vary Monotony.
As II to vary the monotony Of the
seven eighthS jacket. there are two
or three short box coats trimmed with
three narrow bands running from the
side breadths TO the middle of the
front. which bands are repeated on
the skirt All coat collars are very
high.
The one piece dresses and the long
tunics OF all sorts and cuts still hold
sway. fact which brings the separate
coat into prominence and is discour-
aging to those who prefer tailored
costumes. The various velours de
laine are favored for the tailored cos
tunes and separate coats. Doeuillet
always has a certain number of good
wearable coats and this season is no
exception. Most of these are in rough
weaves, resembling tweeds and home
spuns, and they come to the bottom
of the skirt, have large patch pockets
and tie In front with a narrow girdle
Sometimes the collar and cuffs are
II the same material as the coat
More often, they are OF fur. The large
| collars are fullcd on at the back to
/ make them lie properly when open
| When they are closed they stand a,
least five inches high. then break
sharply and become turnover col
lar.
Doeuillet shows several cape coats
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22

but instead Of the conventional Sits
through which pass the arms, he pre-
fers the set In kimono sleeve In a
dressier coat, velvet is used fulled
at the waist. From the shoulders
falls a herald's cape, the hem OF which
Is turned under and tackled to the
back Four three inch bands OF brown
coney trim the bottom OF this gar
ment and also form collar and cuffs.
Another smart wrap is of tete-de-
negre stamped velvet. also fulled over
the hips. with a cord and tassel girdle
and collar and cuffs OF seal. Rodier's
new metal fur Is used on several OF
tho evening coats.
Doeuillet uses quantities Of en-
broidery. but none OF it elaborate
enough to be conspicuous. All OF his
models have a sombre air. The softer
materials predominant; the silk jer-
seys and soft satins which drape well.
There are practically no novelties in
trimmings. but that fact is over
looked because the times do not call
for trimmed dresses.
This season the blouse has been
practically discarded for the newer
tunic, With a black velvet street suit
trimmed with skunk is worn a tur-
quo!se satin tunic embroidered in
metal thread. Its extremely short
sleeves are trimmed with tiny silver
tassels that also continue down the
sides OF the tunic in front, while neck
and sleeves are bound with silver
braid. The back OF these tunics is
long wasted and slightly bloused.
Long Shoulder and Wide Armhole
Another tunic is cut like a gilet. The
front is of gray Jersey. the back OF
gray satin gathered in at the waist
and held down by strap. the replica
OF that on a mans waistcoat, with the
difference that this buckle is OF silver
The gilet comes to the knees In front
and boasts two flap pockets. Down &c
the waist line Is a row OF small silver
buttons. The Jersey Is fitted at the
waist by a dart to maintain the proper
| line.
All Doeuillets frocks have the lonI
shoulder and the wide armhole. into
which Is set the sleeve that is full a,
It's inception but narrows at the wrist
This set in sleeve gives the kimono eff.
feet. but insures greater freedom OF
motion.
} Doeuillet has a mysterious way OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
Puttees Are Possibilities and Between
Season Frocks Offer Novelties in
Collars-Return of MORE Welcome

small furs brought out at this time Of
year and which seem to obviate the
need for a bit OF white near the faca
To soften the harsh lines the unrc-
lieved sombre materials give find fur
10 considerably used as trimming
Many fine frocks of satin or tricolette
have small band Just across the back
about to return. AZ any rate. 1t is put
on so many. many blouscs and gowns
that It seems to have returned to stay
a while after these long, comfortable
years Of low cut dresses and collarless
things. The newest dresses have wide
collars Of fur buttoning Just as high
up to the ears as one can possibly wear
them.
1t is not unusual to find this sort of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
Moire Is Coming Back.
NOTES OF THE MUSIC WORLD

garden scene from Faust" In silhouette
with Alys Michot as Marguerite. Ralph
Errolle as Faust, and Yon Collignon as
Mephtstopheles. Maxine Pilzer will
make her Broadway debut singing a
series OF Russian folk songs in English
Ralph II. Brigham and Herbert Sisson
will alternate in rendering Martins
Melody Of Peace" as pipe organ solo
The Strand symphony Orchestra will
play Hungarian Rhapsody No q"
LiszO. introducing harp cadenza
written and played by Max Seidel. Carl
Edouarde will conduct
The plans for the forthcoming season
OF the symphony Society OF New York
Walter Damrosch conductor, reflect the
belief OF the management that even
in war times good music still. remains
a necessity for the American people
With the usual number of concerts and
soloists OF high calibre announced, a
season OF promise is in prospect
The following series OF concerts are
announced for New York: Eight Thurs
day afternoons and eight Saturday eve
nings at Carnegie Hall sixteen Sunday
afternoons in Aeolian Hall: the usual
six symphony concerts for young people
in Carnegie Hall on Saturday after
moons four symphony concerts for chill
dren on Saturday mornings in Aeolian
Hall, series that was successfully in
augurated last year, and the Ave Sat
urday afternoon orchestral concerts at
the Brooklyn Academy OF Music.
Walter Damrosch, who will enter upon
his thirty-fourth year as conductor of the
symphony Society. has recently returned
from France, where at the request OF
Gen. Pershing his energies were directed
to formulating plans for the improye-
ment of tho American army band system
over there. Mr.. Damrosch has brought
home several very highly important and
interesting novelties for the seasons
work, chief among them being a dra-
matte scene entitled, Faust and Helena"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-09-22
STOUT WOMEN GET NO CHANCE WITH NEW PARIS GOWNS

fastening his frocks and the wearer
looks as though she had been poured
into the gown through the neck. The
trick consists in a carefully concealed
set Of hooks and eyes that have the
great advantage in these maidless days
Of not being complicated.
One finds an occasional surplice waist
in the afternoon frocks and now and
again the long wasted moyen-age
line. Though all the material is slightly
fulled at the waist II becomes narrow
at the hem.
This house is also fond of the apron
front tunic that is fastened at the side
seam by fancy buttons, with the dress
scheme completed by a heavy cord and
tassel for a girdle.
One taupe charmeuse frock has q
narrow draped skirt, the front of which
is covered by a tablier OF charmeuse
bound with the same material and
which. in turn. is yelled by another
tablier of gray and gold lace The
collar, high in front, becomes a deer
V in back and crosses in two surplCe
bands that are tied in front, the bow
being the sole trimming OF the other
wise perfectly plain bodice.
An absolutely unadorned black vel
vet frock with round neck and elbow
sleeves has as its only dash of color q
cordeliere of coral red and black bead:
that encircles the waist, knots once
and hangs TO the hem OF the skirt.
Few Evening Frocks shown.
There are not many evening frock.
in the collection. but those that are
shown are good. One has a gold tissue
slip that Is fringed at the bottom, ha.
short sleeves also fringed and slit L
the shoulder. over the slip goes al
overdress of black chiffon velvet
girdled at the waist and with drapeC
gold lined pannier on the right hip
The left side is varied by having {
straight floating panel,
Another evening gown OF ros,
taffetas has ruffled panniers ending il
front in a pointed tablier, tipped witt
heavy silver tassel that hangs tire,
inches below the silver lace overtunic
In this frock the decolletage Is square
Evening dresses are all short, ever
those that boast "A train. which ap
pendage lies a good six inches on IT,,
| ground
Everything considered, Doeuillet'
collection lacks the excitement and tn,
surprise of some OF the other house,
that strain after the odd effects tina
have made their reputation. And al
though most OF the models may not b,
adopted by the demi- mondaines o
Paris, they will certainly be seen il
the conservative salons Of the Eau
bourg Saint German.