Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1918-01-18
PARISIANS PLACE
BUSTLE IN FRONT

fact that we have been Over-surfeited
with fullneSs in clothes and the very
sight Of such gown gives us
Squeaiaish attack of sartOrial indiges-
ton. II is almost unbearable today
10 look upon a looped. panniered, be-
frilled or benounced costume. We
wore hOopskirts, even though they
We're disguised under the Name of the
farthingale. until we felt ashamed to
look at barrel, and ii is not posi-
bic for either the French or the Amer
lean designers to compel us to turn
our attention TO such clothes in the
immediate future.
We want slimness, we look our very
best in slmneSs, and we are quite will
ing To wear less material than since
the Civil war; but we are tired of tu-
mics. our trouble is that we don't
want Il return to the small waist, we
our clothes and We insist upon a
straight line from armhOle To hips, but
something must be done with our
skirts If our palate for clothes Is to be
tickled any further.
Under the influence Of this impa-
thence and annoyance with a cOntin-
uity of line in clothes. there is no
reason why something approaching the
tie-back skirt and the hustle of 1870
so should not appear quite gradually
over the horizon for the better class
of clothes.
You know by this time, of course,
that the hustle is nothing more than
a hideous word for bit Of soft
drapery arranged to break the tight
and often inartistic line across the
figure at the end of the spine. This
drapery is the saving grace on certain
types of broad, stout figures. 1t may
be almost impossible to believe that
among this race of flat-hipped, long
limbed, slim-chested, big-waisted
American women, which the last ten
years have produced, there are still
women, and many of them. who have
what is called the ancient figure. OF
course, ii is not the ancient figure at
all, for that is the new figure to which
all mOdernists aspire. but what the
dressmakers mean by the phrase Is the
1880 figure, which has never been con-
trolled or suppressed or even treated
with contempt by certain segment OF
American women. Chests out, stOm-
achs in, hips rounded and waists
frightened is the artificial figure that
was stamped upon three generations
of American women and has not en-
tirely died out.
long since forgotten that they ever
had waist, but they cannot Submerge
the flesh around their hips and back
and they .oOk their worst in chemise,
fore, the hustle drapery is for them.
II the dressmakers can handle 1t in a
manner that suggests novelty and
achieves artistic results, we shall prob
6bly see 1t In the foremost fashions.
Now as to the French bustle-it was
copied from the Directoire period and
taken, like all the Directoire clothes,
from the fashions of u century before
Napoleon aspired to control of France.
1t merely transpOses the drapery as
the Americans use it, from the back
to the front.
BullOz is the apostle of this hustle,
if You can call the drapery in front
by that name. BullOz, through his
color schemes and his daring, has
assumed something of the widespread
authority i'm clothes that Paul POiret
held. undisputed, until he went to war.
BullOz dips his hands deep into his
tory, pulls ont anything his fingers
can grasp and puts all that he finds
into the most modern of clothes. Two
years ago his efforts were not taken
seriously in this country; today. all
the designers over here who wish TO
cater to an exclusive patronage, buy
freely of Bulloz.
1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate.i
fabric gloves. Today the sight is not