davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1918-02-10

such numbers Of women doing active
relief work has already set it's impress
upon the fashions. and it is quite prob
able, despite the talk of the dress
makers, that coat suits OF SILK popnn
in black, beige, brown and blue will
rise to unusual heights of popularity.
Let us hope this may come about. 1t is
not nice to remember that there are
$4,000 unemployed workers in the suit
trade.
The incoming of lace, which has been
a pronounced feature Of the French ex-
hibitions Of spring clothes. is puzzling.
Lace is not cheap, and we were told
that it was very difficult to get in Eu-
GUM and northern France. Evidently.
however, there has been a great deal
Of lace turned out in Paris, and the
French designers have determined to
use it up and to produce wave OF
popularity for it.
! Dinner gowns are of black, white and
cream lace, and they are elaborately
! touched up with threads of silver and
gold.
Scant lace founces are draped over
slim Innings OF satin and taffeta. Lace
| bodices will be returned for usage un-
der coat suits, and blouses that fall be-
| low the waist and are girdled with
| yividly colored ribbons will be added to
! suits Of white flannel, matelasse and
| jersey.
BY the way, white flannel has sidled
| into the limelight. Palm feach ap-
proves of 1t. Smart women say they
| like it better than jersey. Once upon a
| time it was the accepted summer garb
| of our leisure millionaire class Of men.
but we have no such class today. and
the decks of yachts and other pleasure
craft have been placed in the category
! Of things that were.
| But white flannel for women has been
introduced as a fashion that expects
approval 1t will undoubtedly get it.
The weave OF the new material is quite
| thin and pliable. 1t is cooler than
| serge. 1t does not wrinkle like pongee.
! Short jackets Of it which either end
1 at the waist or run to the hips are
! often interlined. and there is an odd
little trick of putting bands of figured
+, or white silk over the seams on the in
side in lieu of lining.
/ There Is a faint suggestion of re-
| turn to the use of velvet against white
| gowns in the summer, which is seen in
q new frock of white and black silk
| jersey. 1t is shown along with the white
flannel suits.
The tunic of white falls over a skirt
which has a wide band Of black velvet
as its hem. and, above this band on the
tunic. IS an applique ornamentation of
| velvet picked out with silver.
| A few Of the eton suits of white fan
Evening star., 1918-02-10

armholes, belts put below the waist
line and long waistcoats resembling
those worn by Louis XIV. These are
extensively worn by the smart women
in France and are OF exaggerated
length.
One of the best French models shown
reaches just to the point Of the knees
and is fastened in straight line from
there to the chin.
Starting out with the foundation
stone of the new Paris fashions, which
are based on the conservation Of other
materials than wool, and remembering
well that you must not bulge or fare
or to provoke discussion as to your ex-
travagance in the usage Of fabric. then
1t is wise to go on to the minor ad-
juncts OF fashion.
The revival of silk popln is bit Of
news that appeals to the majority of
women. You know, this fabric makes
admirable coat SUITS and with the mod
ern activity Of nearly every woman in
this country there will not be such a
wide demand as usual for frocks that
need constant cleaning and laundering.
The late spring and summer will
probably usher in a vast array Of
women dressed in silk poplin. shantung.
the thinnest gabardine. satin and dark
foulard.
The tailored suit which is adopted by
Evening star., 1918-02-10

business into cramped and otherwise
Inadequate form, for the mere sake of
maintaining an ancient tradition In
very clear and pointed detail does he
machine should promptly and fearlessly
be scrapped, to make way for form
that is capable of securing an efficient
government for imperial England.
form calculated to embody and repre-
sent all of the parts of the great en-
pire. Over against this clear and
searching analysis of the nature of
parliament and of it's present short
comngs is set tentative outline for
an imperial form of government. The
main essentials of this imperial plan
are sharply scrutinized in their respec-
tive bearings upon England's imperial
problem. The argument presents a
clear and deeply thoughtful outlook
upon English politics at the present
time, just as It sums to practical sur
vey of the future political problems of
England.
THE BRAZILIANss And Their COun-
try. BY Clayton Sedgwick Cooper.
author of THE Modernizing of the
orient" etc. Illustrated. New York:
Frederick A. Stokes Company.
The purpose of this admirable study
is to interpret the people of Brazil to
the people of the United States. The
writer. therefore, sets the Brazilian in
the midst of his natural surroundings
to show the effect of these natural
forces upon the general outline of his
development. At this early point he in
PRODUCES tha. which turns out to be his
method of interpretation-the method
of contrast. The North American is. to
certain extent. what he is by virtue
OF environment. This is true, too, of
/ the Brazilian. An essential difference
between the two is the difference be-
tween North America and the South
American latitudes and other climatic
conditions. So. throughout the study.
whether the writer is dealing with the
derivation of Brazilian settlers or the
forms of government which they sue
, cessively developed, the rise and
growth of their industries. or the spe-
cial cast of their social organization.
or any other feature of Brazilian life.
he carries these points by contrast, be-
side parallel developments in the north.
1t is a method that carries excellently.
! giving the reader. not new beings and
conditions to bewilder him. but varia :
tions from himself and from his own
j familiar surroundings as a sure means
Of comprehension. As an interpreta-
tion the book belongs clearly with the
! agencies specifically designed to pro-
| mote mutual understanding between
the Americas. And, purely as a de-
| scriptive work on the general sum Of
| Brazilian affairs. it is competent and
interesting study.
THE LIFE OF AGGUsTIN DAILY. BY
Joseph Francis DAILY. New York
The Macmillan Company
This biography serves a triple pur-
pose. II is. first, a story of achieve
ment-of doing with distinction that
which Mr.. DAILY set out to do. even
though difficulties stood overwhelming
ly around 1t is next a commemorative
history of the American stage during
the most notable period of it's develop
ment. And. again. it is triumph of
sympathetic and restrained biography
on the part of Mr.. Da1y's brother. AS q
| history of the progress of the drama
in America at one OF it's critical points.
the study IL Daruculagly useful to stu
Evening star., 1918-02-10
New Fashons rom Paris and the Conservation of Wooden Fla

made with q long waistcoat Of brow"
or black velvet fastened with silve
buttons.
Not only Cheruit, but many othe,
ear to making q pronounced fashior
out of silver tissue. Two years ago W
grew excessively weary OF evenfn.
gowns made of superimposed pieces o;
tulle on metallic foundation, am
tissue presents itself as a fashion ".
turn away from II in q petulant man
ner.
But wait! This revival of q coat OF
mail for women, the warriors uniform
of ancient days which no modern fight
er would touch. is another and a more
pleasing thing than the evening gown
of metallic cloth.
Entire tunics, in the twelfth century
fashion, are made of tarnished silver
dropped from neck to knees. or longer.
over skirts of blood red or midnight
blue satin or velvet. Except for the
costliness of the material the tunics
have all the simplicity OF primitive
dressing. Their Introduction into the
early spring fashions has brought about
a quantity of silver used in every way.
NINE. SlrnOne OF tne lhehteT AntOtnS
in Paris is wearing, hear. a wonderful
gown which is being copied for this
, country II is OF silver cloth faced with
red. hanging in panels on the ground
over a slim, tight skirt that clinRs to
the figure as she walks. The warrior
like corsage is embroidered with pearls.
brilliants and flashes of cut steel To II
she adds warriors headdress made OF
the same jewels as in the corsage and
mounted on silver cloth.
Wherever silver can be hicked in and
out of frock to enliven IL the designer
loses no chance of trying out her i'm
genuity through this channel. When
she abandons the Russian blouse of
I gold and bronze metallic cloth, which
drops over a skirt of bronze satin, she
| takes the same material and uses 1t in
bands. cuffs and high. wrinkled collars
that fnclose the chin like a fence.
1t is a strange idea, this bringing out
of a new coat of mail for women as the
| spring approaches. Is II a recognition
of their first victory toward suffrage
and the fact that they may be counted
as warriors today in civic, national and
! war work?
Evening star., 1918-02-10

Waistcoats show the influence of the
directoire period.
Serge frocks in tan, gray and brown
are good style.
Rabbit fur is one Of the most favored
furs in Paris
Printed silk voile is used for some
OF the spring blouses.
Pointed trains are a feature of the
new evening gowns.
.Drawnwork will be a new feature
of summer dresses.
Hooks and eyes invisibly close most
of the new dresses.
Heavy silk cord placed close together
forms pretty belt.
great deal Of shocking appears
on dresses for young girls.
Straw flowers are used on the new
straw hats for spring.
There is a great deal Of pink and
rose among evening dresses.
Eton and pony jackets are already
decided on for spring.
The very high moyen age collar is to
be the most fashionable.
Satin and Ringham are appearing in
the new spring frocks.
Cndergarments Of khaki-colored ma.
terial are among the latest.
Orange sweaters with white skirts
are good form on the links.
Bags OF suede beads and moire silk
combined are very good style.
A green hemp sports hat has q
wreath Of sweet peas in all colors.
Cloth fringe. made by cutting slashes
in the cloth. 10 a new trimming.
Taupe satin wraps are frightened By
collars OF cora1-colored ostrich.
Evening star., 1918-02-10

LINE. By Capt. Gilbert Nobbs
Qate L. r. b.. New York: Charles
Scribner's Sons.
A HANDBOOK ON STORY WRITING,
By Blanche Cotton " illiams, Phi. D.,
etc. author of "Gnomic Poetry in
Anglo-Saxon." New York: Dodd.
Mead & Co.
NORMAN PRINCE, A Volunteer Who
Died for the Cause He Loved. With
memoir by George F. Babbitt. Bos.
ton: Houghton Miflin Company.
HOW TO BUILD MENTAL POWER.
BY Grenville Kleiser. author Of
How to Speak in Public" etc. New
York: Funk G. Wagnalls Company.
OUR GIRLS IN WARTIME. Rhymes
by Hampden Gordon. Pictures by
Joyce Dennys. New York: John
Lane Company.
THE RHYME GARDEN. Written and
illustrated by Marguerite Butler
Allan. New York: John Lane Com.
pany.
Evening star., 1918-02-10
FADS AND FANCIES.
Gray is a favorite shade.

Gray is a favorite shade.
Thrush brown is a new color.
Sleeveless coats are made with capes.
Yellow is a shade fancied by Paris
Mushroom sailor hats are with us
again.
Ivory-white beads make a pretty
girdle.
Gray and yellow make a pretty COM
bination.
Small poke-shaped hats are in evil
dence.
Satin is used for dresses. suits and
hats.
Killed plaids are much in favor for
skirts.
Wool embroideries are more than
ever used.
There must be note Of contrast in
the dress.
Flag blue is combined with gray and
chamois.
oASnGS are tlGU dt ouS Siuc. dhuCi
the left arm.
The slip-on coat is one that Paris is
very fond of.
Wool hop-sacking is to be used for
motor wraps
White silk is promised for spring
suits and dresses.
The corset which laces in back is
growing in favor.
The straight japanese sleeve is one
much favored
Some of the new skirts have shawl
draped tunics.
Patent leather trimmings are COM
ing into fashion.
Sleeves are frequently made OF a
contrasting material
Evening star., 1918-02-10

the world here for the feelings that
have touched their words with fire.
tributed to it. but all Of the allied coun-
tries as well. have. through their gift
ed sons and daughters, given to its
substance. The President. Theodore
Roosevelt. Lord Bryce. Lord North
cIife. William Dean Howells. Anatole
France. Gabrielle D'Annunzio and many
another come together here-painters
and artists making beautiful exterior
for the fine substance of the book. And
in it Hermann Hagedorn sends out a
rhythmic note to each one who is ask
ing: How can server" He says:
There are strange ways Of serving Cod
To sweep room or turn SOD.
An9 a., 'sddsn Y , t. your =, surU5t:s prize,
And md you're under Gods own eyes
And building palaces for him.
There are strange unexpected ways
OF going soldering these days:
1t may be only census blanks
You're asked. TO conquer with pen.
But. suddenly. you're in the ranks
And fighting for the rights of men,
WE OF ITALY. BY Klyda Richardson
Steege. New York: E. P. Dutton
& CO.
This book is made up of letters writ
ten to the folks at home. during the
past three years of the war. by Italian
Of field and hospital are from heroes
Of every rank-from the plain lighting
man and from men OF varying degrees
Of command. All OF them are heart-to-
heart outpourings. War scenes are por-
trayed with the fire of participation.
Acts OF single and collective heroism
stand out like sculpture. Feelings-feel-
ings toward the war, toward home. to-
ward Italy and. the kins-fow unob-
structed and free OF. Italian source.
these letters are particularly simple.
spontaneous. unashamed of open words
of love, rich in the full expression OF
deep feeling. 1t is this quality of open
heartedness that gives them both their
value and their appeal. Through them
the highest part of the spirit of Italy
stands in clenr. revelation. Through
them. too. one enriches his own emo
sympathy. of genuine brotherhood with
these Italian heroes Of the WARMTH
all the heroes OF this great war, where
every soldier is q hero. The book is
bare the heart of a country through the
intimate avowals of its defenders.
IN THE WAKE OF THE WAR. BY
Harold Hodge. NJ. A. New York
John Lane Company
ly editor OF the Saturday Review, con-
tributes here to the growing discus
sion of the change that is due to take
place in the English government as one
of the many readjustments that the
new peace will impose. The question
involved In Mr.. Hodges discussion is:
Shall the old parliamentary form per-
sist or shall a new imperial govern
ment arise to take its place? The writ
er asserts that parliament Is an out
worn agency. capable Of functioning at
all only through wasteful and dishon-
est subterfuges whose object is to
crowd . new and greatly expanded
Evening star., 1918-02-10

BY Robert H. Davis and Perley Poore
Sheehan. With appreciation by The.
odore Roosevelt. New York: George
H. Doran Company.
AMERICA. YESTERDAY AND TODAY,
Pageant. BY Nina 3. Lamkin
Chicago: T. S. Denison & Co.
LANDSCAPE AND FIGURE PAINTERS
OF AMERICA. BY Frederic Fair
child Sherman. New York: Pub
lished by the author.
ANTHOLOGY OF MAGAZINE VERSE
FOR 1917; And Yearbook of Ameri-
can Poetry. Edited by William
I Stanley Braithwaite. Boston: Small
Maynard & Co.
REED VOICES. BY James B. Kenyon.
New York: James T. White & Co.
THE BINDING OF THE BEAST, And
Other War Verse. BY George Ster-
ling. author Of The House OF Or
chids.' etc. San Francisco: A. NJ
Robertson.
A THEOLOGY FOR THE SOCIAL Cos
PEI. BY Walter Rauschenbusch.
author of Christianity and the
Social Crisis" etc. New York: The
Macmillan Company.
A SHORT HISTORY OF SCIENCE. BY
w. T. Sedgwick and H. w. Tyler.
New York: The Macmillan Company.
THE MARVEL BOOK OF AMERICAN
SHIPS. BY Capt. Orton p. jackson,
U. S. n. and Maj. Frank E. Evans.
L. S. NJ. c. With twelve colored
plates and over 400 illustrations
from photographs. New York: Fred
erick A. Stokes Company.
WHAT Is FAIR; A Study Of Some
Problems Of Public Utility ReEula-
tlop. BY William G. Raymond. c.
E., LII. D.. etc. First edition. New
York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
THE RIDDLES OF HAMLET AND THE
NEWEST ANSWERS. BY Simon
Augustine Blackmore. S. J., A. M,
Lift. D., author of "A Great Soul in
Conflict" etc. Boston: The Strait
ford Company.
THE ANGLO-GERMAN COMMERCIAL
AND COLONIAL RIVALRY AS A
CAUSE OF THE GREAT WAR, A
Of History, University OF Southern
California. Los Angeles. By Oscar
Albert Marti. NJ. A. Boston: The
Stratford Company.
NAVAL POWER IN THE WAR uoI4-
1879. By Lieut.. Commander Charles
Clifford Gill. L. s. n. New York:
George H. Doran Company.
EZRA POUND: His Metric and Poetry.
New York: Alfred A. Knopf.
A FREECH-ENGLIsH MILITARY
TECHNICAL DICTIONARY with .
Supplement Containing Recent MILL
tary and Technical Terms. By Cor
nelis De Witt Wilcox, colonel. U.
S. A.. etc. New York: Harper &
Bros.
THE CABIN. BY V. Blasco Ibanex.
Translated from the Spanish by DR..
Francis Hankine Snow. professor of
modern languages at the Tinted
States Naval Academy. and Beatrice
NJ. Mekota. New York: Alfred A.
Knopf.
SHAKESPEAREs And the Founders Of
Liberty In America. By Charles
Mills Gayley. Lift. d., LII. D.. etc.
New York: The Macmillan Company.
ON THE Right OF THE DR1T1o0
Evening star., 1918-02-10
Reviews of New Books

The TREE Of HEAVEN. By May
Sinclair. author of The Three Sis
ters. etc. New York: The Macmil-
~ HERE is no reason to suppose
that Miss Sinclair was con-
fined to the limits Of her own
imagination for this novel,
wherein the young English
man OF the present is SO glorifled and
exalted. For that same young Eng
likhman is clearly in the open, where
the most dull Of eye can see what he is.
The young fellows bred in English
homes-under the tree OF heaven
who furnish the strong sweep of inter-
est here are not artistic creations
They are more in the nature Of studies
from life. studies OF consummate keen
ness and subtlety and dramatic cohe-
aion. The novel separates. broadly.
INTO three parts. The nrst part.
Feace. is the picture of tranquil.
well-ordered beautiful home life. where
three sons and a daughter absorb the
attention of the sane and well-mat ed
pair. The Vortex" shows these chill
dren-young folks by this tfme-tossed
about By the complex of their own ma
lures and the various drifts of the life
about them. The writer does some re-
markable work of characterization at
this point. Victory" closes the story
"A victory in which two Of the sons
and the daughters lover have died for
England. as a matter of course-noth-
ing to talk about. They have simply
done it. The story ends as the last son
is old enough to take his part-and he
smiled. saluted and was gone" That
is the triumph of England in her sons
her victory. This writer is comfort
ably easy with her material--no fore
tn3 aef-
that. There it is as she has chosen
the means to meet the end desired.
This done. it unfolds along the lines oe
its own inherencies. This is always
her way. In THE Tree of Heaven it
rs more than ever conspicuously her
way"
DEFENDERS OF DEMOCRACY. Edited
by the gift book committee of the
Militia of Mercy. New York: John
Lane Company.
Distinguished men and women have
literally hocked into this beautiful
book-each Of them possessed of that
spirit of personal outpourins. of per-
sonal service. which. under the great
common calamity, is making for the
rebirth of the world itself. Men high
in public life. well known noveiists.
poets. playwriters and artists. have
given open-handedly Of themselves for
of the branches of the war service.
No need to know where the naval
militia is. 1t il somewhere on the
seas. serving the country so incon-
spicuously as to be almost forgotten.
or overlooked. Blu. some one remem-
bered. And out Of that recollecting
thought grew this book. TO be dedicate ed
in it's material returns to the families
of thesG fighters on the seas. And. in
a sense. this is eyerybodys book, for
men1a aid women gifted with the power
to say nohiy what every one feels have
gone into the great suffering heart of
Evening star., 1918-02-10

mel have black velvet collars and cuffs
and a broad black velvet ribbon sash
tied loosely in front.
1t is said that white pioue will also
be revived as another wartime fashion,
Evening star., 1918-02-10
Shrewd Bobby.
rom the Boston Transcript.

From the Boston Transcript.
Here's nickel. dear. for doing
that errand for me-"
Make It fve pennies. please. auntie."
why. child, the amount is the same"
Yes. but a nickel comes in too handy
when mamma wants to 60 and tele-
phone somebody -
Evening star., 1918-02-10

suede belt pulled through several
buckles in front.
The eton jacket Is not for the woman
with hips, however. and unless she has
Evening star., 1918-02-10

much after the manner of those worn
by the French soldiers in Algiers, and
often, supplemented by the brilliant
scarlet or yellow sash or an immense
Evening star., 1918-02-10

Feed the sparrows-mAy need 'em to
substitute for turkeys next year.-Chi-
caEo News.
Evening star., 1918-02-10

capes.and long waistcoats that reach
half way to the knees are substitutes
for coats In the absence Of suits, al
though the really smart thing is the
eton or the boiero jacket. as far as the
American fashions are concerned.
The early French clothes sent to this
country before the present exhibitions
In Paris showed the short jacket cut
Evening star., 1918-02-10

THE GROWTH OF A LEGEND. A
study Based Upon the German Ac-
counts Of Frnncs-Tlreurs and
"Atrocities" in Belgium. BY Fer
nand van Langenhove. scientific sec
= retary of the Solvay Institute of
Sociology, Brussels. Translated by
e. B. Sherlock, NJ D., B. Sc. With
Evening star., 1918-02-10

THE TREE OF HEAVEN. By Nav
Sinclair, author of The Three Sis
ters." etc. New York: The Macmil-
Ian Company
The Goldfield news and weekly tribune. [volume] (Goldfield, Nev.) 1911-1947, 1918-08-31

Railroads consume more than one-fourth of the coal min
ed i'm America. Director General McAdoO has covered a large
part of their mileage since assuming control, and he says that
he would recommend the identification of most of them If the
government were to control them permanently. Water power
is available for most of such work. In some western districts
Ignite and low-grade biuminous coal which is not suitable for
firing locomotive boilers could be used to generate power at
the mines very cheaply where sufficient water power is not
available. Between water power and low-grade coal that does
not stand shipment and storage, the consumption of high-grade
coal could be greatly reduced on the railroads. The elimina-
ton of smoke and dirt alone is worth something.
In northern New York millions of horse power can be de-
veloped along the Niagara and st. Lawrence rivers. The high
cost of fuel is even more serious in Canada than in this coun-
try, and anything that will save anthracite and high-grade
bituminous coal and thereby keep their prices within bounds
is to the advantage of the central provinces of Ontario and
Quebec. 1t should therefore be easy to make arrangements
of the vast water powers now running to waste along the in
ternational boundary line. Some valuable water powers also
exist west of Lake Superior which Canada should develop.
More water could be drawn from Niagara Falls without
spelling their scenic beauty. In the lower reaches of Niagara
river every drop of water that comes over the falls could be
made to flow through turbines which would produce more
power than is developed at the falls. All this water, and
vastly more, again runs down the rapids on the ST. Lawrence
river between the foot of Lake Ontario and the city of Mon
treal.
In this territory, most of which forms part of the inter
national boundary line, the power at Niagara could be dpull-
Gated. Such development work would not interfere with the
navigation of the st. Lawrence river beyond possibly putting
ran end to the running of the rapids by sightseeing steamers
which have to return up river by canal. Our reserves of Goa
are vast, but every ton that is mined leaves a ton, plus waste
less in the ground; but we cannot deplete water power by
using it as long as the sun shines and the rains fall.