The St. Mary banner. (Franklin, Parish of St. Mary, La.) 1889-1931, 1918-07-13

l 80
the side.
Another trick is the gathering in OF
the fullness at the side of skirt to
a straight, embroidered band, which
is strongly reminiscent Of the first
hobble skirts.
The women in the sewing room finds
delight in the fact that fullness Is not
taboo. She realizes that she can have
whatever material she desires in a
skirt II it does not flare away from
the hips or the knees.
! What the French call the "jupe ton
neau" has n certain popularity, and
the woman who owns a skirt Of this
kind with its pannier effect ut the
sides, achieved through umbrella folds
and its close, narrow hem) may leave
1t as it is. 1t satisfies the appetite
Of fashion TODAY.
The advent Of the short sleeve in
| frocks. blouses, jackets and even top
coats is startling to the American
and forced it upon Paris. The word
invent" is. of course, bad one to
use in fashions, because everything
has been. and therefore, everything Is
merely revived
When the elbow sleeve was co-sid-
cred by Paris as an American fashion
projected through the demand for con-
venience, it was looked upon by the
ultra-sniart French designer as part
and parcel of that worka-day cos
tumery which the Americans demand
ed and with which the European ele
gante would have nothing to do. We
were called working people.
After while Europe rs well as
America adopted the short sleeve, and
those in this country who were fas-
tidiouS began to side with the French
in their belief that the fashion was
in elegant. For three years we wit
messed streets filled with girls who
wore elbow sleeves in separate white
blouses, with Dutch necks. no collars
no gloves. and separate skirts. That
was an ugly day in costumery. Let us
hope that 1t will not be revived, al
though there is every evidence that
the seeds of this evil have already been
SOwn.
But these short sleeves, which were
worn in the Directoire with every kind
of gown and which were practically
covered by rare old cashmere shawls,
are not the only short ones that this
spring has produced. We are evident
~ In for reign of abbreviated arm COW
erings, inspiration for which has been
gotten from all the centuries.
The SurpIice Movement Wins.
fabrics across the body has been made
by the French, and to follow it will re-
quire ingenious alterations on the part
of the American woman. Evidently
there is an idea that the fewer the
buttons the better the frock. We have
gone back to the time when strings
held fabrics together and the cloth was
cut in such way that it remained
where it was placed on the body.
Possibly it would be more compre-
hensive to put the whole thing into the |
that the more we are wrap |
ped across the body the better dressed |
we are today.
This movement of fabric finds its
most commonplace exploitation in the
surplice bodice or jacket. Afternoon
gowns and the most elaborate evening
frocks have bodices that are merely
elongated scarfs with armholes. They
wrap around the figure at the waist
line and the back. front or sides.
Separate surplice bodices are not
considered too ignoble to be attached
to a brilliant evening skirt. When the
latter is of diaphanous and frivolous
fabric the bodice may be Of satin, bro
cade or tissue, and when it finishes its
bias movement about the figure it Is
held at the side with great gold rose.
Copyright 1918. by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)