davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

The world that amuses or instructs it. self by watching the changes in dress finds itself highly diverted in the month of May. This is the time for settlement. February is full of rumors and cables from Paris concerning the gowns that are exploited there by the dressmakers. During the month of March the clothes that arrive in America are shown first by the importers, who cater to the dressmakers, then by the dressmakers and shops, who cater to the public. After the first week of April the public takes hand in the settlement of fash ions and wears it's new spring clothes at all hours, with reckless prodigality.
 Now we come to the month of ob- servation. We see what has failed and what has succeeded. We know what the public likes and what it has discared.
 The situation in the rooms of the dressmakers and in the shops is also important and interesting. The dress makers who are clever and watch shrewdly the turn that fashions take in the approval of the public, begin quickly to withdraw two sets of gowns by the middle of April: One is the over popular set, which has been common ized in cheap material and run through all channels of commerce.; the other is the extreme or undesirable set, that has not appealed to the public and has been passed up with indifferent or sarcastic comment
 One important man dressmaker in New York said that out of 15o models which he showed at the end of March. he withdrew all but 45 for the month Of April
 woman dressmaker, who has an inn- portant house and who eaters to conserv- ative and fashionable women, outside of New York as well as in it, says that she withdrew a great number of her models by the first of April because they were in the windows of the ready to- wear shops, selling at a fifth of the price she was compelled to ask for them.
 PARADE PROVES NOTHING There was a time long, long ago when the public believed that the Eastern parade clinched the fashions for spring and summer. Recently the church cal endar seems to have lent itself to the
 
 that Easter has been scheduled for the first of April This allows every wom- an to come out in her spring clothes, if she so desires; but as a rule the women of importance do not thus desire. They go to the country, or they wear their winter frocks to the Easter serv- ices So the parade proves nothing, ex- cept that 1t is a joyous day full of sunshine and seeming, if not a real happiness and gayety breaking out on the faces of all who takep art
 AI&l the clothes question has been abandoned. The settlement of fashions is proven in another way, by another set, and not on Sundays. The Sunday best" belongs to the days when church was a recreation to great masses of people who had few other means of fore.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05
Wasn't All There

TTOill lue Inllduolp1ld Iei6STd dpH Speaking at dinner, Senator Duncan U. Fletcher of Florida referred to tho difficulties that the book agent has to contend with, and told the following story as an example:
 Sometime ago book agent went to country house with dictionary he had to sell, and after eloquently exploiting it's many virtues he handed it to tho woman who answered his ring for in- spection. Carefully she turned every page.
 T don't want it. young man." she fin- ally said in decided voice. handing the dictionary back. You needn't think that you can work off book like that on me-
 T don't quite understand. madame" :" was the perplexed rejoinder of the agent. What is the matter with it?'' It's not all there, that's what's the matter with it,' declared the woman. Tt hain't so no index"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

must be worn with the suit, because of it's collarless condition.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

The short sleeves are not taken up in America as much as in France, but the wide Mandarin sleeve which ends be- tween wrist and elbow is shown in many congregations and attractive color com binations. The clever woman sees to it that there is a tight cuff attached to this Mandarin sleeve, to keep it down and hanging in a good line. The tight cuff. which extends over the hand. also eu- viates the necessity of long gioves. A French dressmaker designed a new trick to keep the loose short sleeve in place, and one may say that it is cordi- ally received with "bare" arms This sleeve, ripping away from the shoulder and not reaching the elbow, has an m- let of contrasting silk or satin attached to it by two rows of French knots in colored silk. The armlet is attached on the under side of the sleeve, and either clasps the arm as tightly as brac'- let above the elbow or, better still drops loosely over the elbow. Whenever the arm is lifted this band keeps the short loose sleeve in it's proper place. Since short sleeves became the fashion for aft ernoon gowns, women have struggled with the exasperating method of slipping up and over the shoulder whenever the arm is lifted on level with the shoulder This trick can be taken into the heart of the sewing room and used for various kinds of sleeves that have trick of not remaining downward.
 Doucet has ne wsleeve which is very interesting. It is suggested by the open. ing up of those Mesopotamian regions by the British army. It is only for gowns worn in the evening. formal or iE. formal.
 The sleeve is short, like six-inch cap that fits the arm, and is finished with band of some glittering ornamenta- tion. At the back of this band start two strips of this same ornamentation, which extend in loose curve to the
 wrist, where they are caught by tight
 bracelet of the same material. For in- stance, on short sleeves of black tulIe in black and jet gown. thera are two
 loosely flowing bands of jet from the
 back of the short sleeve and these are
 caught into jet bracelet
 A woman who is in search of novelty
 will find thls a clever trick to introduce in a gown she is rearranging to meet the modern demands.
 The new trick in clothes is to button
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

sailor collars had disappeared from fash
 ionable garments. They realized that
 the neckline, instead of being V-shaped, was square and deeply decollete, or delta -shaped-the decolletage that we as-
 sociate with Dresden shepherdesses, Dol
 ly Warden styles, Mozartian opera and
 Janice Meredith. This kind of neckline
 was accepted only for frocks; it should
 go without saying that it was not con templated for coats.
 But whatever the garment, it's neck line was no more hidden and enveloped by white collar. It is quite probas ie that this somersault in fashions dis
 turbed the minds of more women than
 even the incoming of the tight skirt for it necessitated thought and an entire change in the arrangement of the gar ments which have been carelessly worn
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

as well as the minority It is the new ar rangement of the neckline.
 This style has been creeping on us lin- awares since January, but 1t seems to have sprung out of ambush anu at tackled the people as the warm weatlie: burst over the land
 Those who were not observing fashion closely went about with their shrtwais. collars pulled out over the ccat collars. or the wide collars of guimpss pulled out over the bare edge of one piece frock.
 Then, suddenly, the whole process seemed to be wrong. The careless public observed that the fastidious crowd had abandoned white coat collars. They also noticed that the neckline of 2 one-plece frock was not outlined by a collar ex- cept at the back. They noticed That
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

HuSb De worn WlLn the SuIt, because of it's collarless condition.
 STRENGTH OF THE JACKET
 One hears on every side that more women's tailors are out of employ ment than any other class of people. Their leaders are pleading with the government to give them uniforms to do to keep them from starvation. A number of dressmaking houses have decided to take these men on to make skirts of one-piece cloth frocks in or der to keep them busy.
 The entire situation is due, so the students of labor conditions say, to the aversion of the average woman to tailored suit. because France, who is minus tailors. has placed the decree for one-piece frocks.
 The lessened number of chiffon blouses shown this summer is indica- tive of the lessened number of tailored suits worn. so the workers claim. It is true that the shops are filled with
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

care to go to the expense of half a dozen shirtwaists in the laundry each week. It fits closely to, the necklille at back and sides. crosses at the bust, and either fastens over the hips or at the side of the waist with a loop of braid. or goes around to the back in long ends which tie loosely.
 One might deduct, in looking at these surplice jackets, chemise robes, slip-over- -the-head tunics and Callot mummy gowns, that it is buttonless era. We are to be tied into our clothes from now on. In truth. those startling Callot frocks for afternoon and even- ing. which strike the only really new note since 1915, give one quick mem- ory of the luditrous costumes of those who took part in picnic days, hopping along in coffee sacks tied at the feet, through a lane of cheering, excited pleasure seekers.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

wash blouses, which are always in demand for many reasons. However, there is large segment of Anglo Saxon women who will not forsake tho coat and skirt, and they will cling to it, if not for humane reasons, in or der to give men work, then for per sonal reasons. It is our uniform and we know how to wear it. We are not nearly so sure of the one-piece frocks as we are of the well-cut, well-sew ed coat and skirt. It is futile, therefore, to speak of it's abolition while this strong feeling of approval exists for it in this country, as in England. And because of this condition it is we'll for women to realize that the buttonless jacket or the surplice kind is the one preferred.
 It pays tribute to the fashion for the onepiece frock by clinging to it's skirt and not permitting of removal. It re- mains on the shoulders as long as the are taken off together.
 WORN WITH CHEMISETTE
 shirtwaist may be worn beneath it for the sake of cleanliness, but the chemisette, with it's shields in the three-inch sleeves, is the preferred un- dergarment. Chemisettes are not as a rule cheaper than white shirtwaists, but thy are well beloved by women to- day. They fill in the space that is left open by a surplice jacket, with due consideration for taste, cleanliness and trimness.
 The surplice jacket does not leave much space to be filled in, and that is it's charm to the women who do no
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

The new trick in clothes is to buttol
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

THE ITALIAN DECOLLETAGE ADMITTED INTO SEPARATE BLOUSES DECOLLETAGE IS CUT DEEPLY INTO THE FRONT ONEPIECE GOWNS, EVEN FOR MORNING WEAR AFTERNOON GOWNS ARE OFTEN LOWER IN THE NECK THAN THOSE EVENING FEWER COLLARS ARE USED.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

CALLOTS NEW FROCKS WHICH ARE ORIG NATION SINCE 1915, HAVE HUMOROUS RESEMBLANCE TO COFFEE BAGS TIED IN AT THE FICULT WEAR, BUT MAY OvERTURN SILHOUETTE OF
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-05-05

It is of pastel blue worn over a
 China silk slip and trimmed with tiny pleated ruffles at edges of short sleeves and wide sash The hat is
 made of organdy trimmed with pink
 velvet ribbon and pink rose.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Private Chas Ryland has returned
from Crescent Okla Were nc Went
on furlough
Private Ralph ANten is enjoying
the pleasure of showing Camp Travis
and San Antonio TO his brother Roy,
and aIso lau Feary. who are here to
See Z boys
We are now apparently in the midst
d southern Texas wet season as
Jupiter pmyis has been omptymg bar
rels Of water on us tie past weeH,
making it necessary for us to have
indoor drilling We have also fourl
that Texas mud is sticky and very
fond Of clinging to shoes and leggins.
The parents and friends of Logan
county boys in this company need not
worry longer that the boys will be lost
when visiting san An.oniu or roam
ing about the camp as they all have
identification tags attached to a pref
ty white ribbon which goes around
the neck. On this tag appears the
mans name and company letter and
regiment number
Jesse d Keezer Of Perkins, who IS
stationed at Camp Travis, Texas, as
member OF Battery O. 343d f n A.
is taking a four months course at ~"
school for horse shoers and says wuea
they bring on the biz ones that u.
will show them how 10 hold them wit
one hand and stick a shoe on with
the other He wants Doc Graham
OF Coyle to wait for him to have his
dray horses shod
James II Ferguson of Guthrie, whJ
]. now one Of the Logan county boys
serving with Unclc Sam in HeadQuat
tiers company. 3i3d Ficld Artillery
was among those assigned to the hos
pital Feb is. with the mumps
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26
.REBELLED At SINGING
DIE WACHT AM RHINE"
German Recruits Meeting, Shoot
i0fficers and Are Then
Court Martialed and
Ghot

london Fob 2G A dispatch to Tho
Exchange Telegraph rum Amsteg-
d m dated last Thursday says that ac
cordine 10 frontier reports at Beycrloo
in Belgium whore German recruits are
trained for tie front The officers aa-
ucmeed February "a that the men
would leave for Flanders The eigL-
tegath and ordered Them to sing Die
Hacht am Rhine" and other German
national songs
The soldiers according to the dis
patch declined TO comply w oreupoa
am officer drew his sword and ql-
tackled a rccmi The officer was shot
and afterwards All The soldiers sus-
pcqtcd II having participated in the
revolt were court -marialcd, sentence
ed TO die and were Shot
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Women of Paris are now wearing
Nu lre SEES
Tbo beautiful evening gown is no
Uacr worn at toa a- the women OF
F@is are now in mourning
This IS Inc statement OF Mrs. Ida
AeGIona Gibson who has Just re-
uHed from Paris. where she has
been working with the Red Cross.
Although the dire SEES are of black
material they retain the graceful
iDes of tha French style.
reas likewise have teen affected
~ rho war, Says Mrs. Gibson
~ Tea menu consists Of tea and
BACK brcad' She said, French
wslY is a ding &c the past.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

lot governor who would not h6 XIX I
are OF leading the fight for Che adop-
''oh OF these amendment
but the men who WORK for us IN
paftlesville in Washington county
@,u ~ oNiahoma City should not be
selected for their party label but for
laelr ability and Willingness to give
service Efficiency should be- the
prerequi lite to office "0
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

romitiyo Justaminutcs pet panther
got into the butcher shop ycstcrda,
afternoon and tried to eat some of tae
meat athat was ON sale. lie could
stretch it some but couldn't tear It, -
that the only damage done was the
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26
HartlesYille Examiner.

bartlesrlle Examiner.
City, county and state offices are
let political jobs. There is nothing
about the administration Of any city,
county or state office that has any
relation to national politics and or to
any national political party. Candi-
dates for legislative office within the
STATE whether city office or state Of
flee, should not be voted for on ba-
sis Of national legislative problems
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26
EVeryWoman" an Entertaining Play
Wthfa MESSAGE.

Henry W Sayage's big production
q. "EYerywoman" will be the attrac-
uon at Savoy theater Saturday and
Sunday, March > and 3. matinees ON
Saturday and Sunday
One Of the principal characters in
the Play is that of Beauty Beauty is
the constant companion Of Every
woman in the proper days Of her
youth when her life is properly de-
corous. Later. when she meets Flat
tely IN her mirror and decides TO set
forth upon a quest for tabled King
Love, Beauty accompanies her. She
remains her companion until Every
woman takes up with Dissipation.
Wen at midnight orgy, in her
sumPtuous apartment, beneath garish
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Ned TubbS Oldest boy stood exam
inatIon al the Bend school at fine end
Of the month The report is that he
got sixty, but your correspondent +,
reliably informed by the school teach
or that he would have gol a hundred
it the quirt lad held out
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Manager Harry Ardery has booked
the Eyerywoman' company for the
Guthrie Opera House for the night of
March H.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26


sues.
The only questions requiring action
by state legislature that have any
national political bearing are the
amendments to the federal constitu-
ten. and these would receive the ac-
ton making the action the truest ex-
preston of the peoples will if ac-
ten were divorced from party poll
ties.
In Oklahoma the ratification of the
women outrage and prohibition
amendments are live questions. no
man should be considered for office
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

light 10 the accompaniment Of bubb-
ling wine, Beauty sickens, fades and
dies Fort Worth Record.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Take a few doses of Chamberlains
Tablets as directed for Indigestion
and YOU will soon forget about your
stomach troubles Try it.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

Tonight, eight O'Clock. 0 NJ L vs.
Ponca City Indians,
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

"HELP WIN THE WAR" BUY
SAVINGS STAMPS,
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26
n MRnR N u n u . q zu mas
lOT POLITICAl

Z. s g \ =. 2. =. = 3: p z. q .x 2. r. ID
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1918-02-26

auY WAR sT%a1's" AND SAVE.
The evening herald., 1918-05-31

rhuuo 8, I;,d Barn, 81 Wet cop
poT. iuu fiT-t class lNcrN. ". T..
Iiiuhlp \ 90
Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1918-09-13
Notice To Owners Stock
Valley Turnpike Company

II is requested that all owners OF
stock of the Valley Turnpike Com
papy file with Mr.. D. b. Dingess,
Secretary of the Valley Turnpike
Company, Middletown, Va, their proof
of owner ship for said stock not later
than Oct. 18Th If original certificate
10 In pos. essio1 OF owner OF stock,
this certificate. should forwarded to
| the Secretary.
Those stockholders not possessing the
original certificates and In such
cases where the stock does not stan
in their names must p esent to the
| Secretary sworn statement giving
exact facts in regard to their CLAIM
for ownership OF stock. Such claims
will be passed upon by the Valley
Turnpike Company promptly after
Oct. 18th.
| In view of the fact that very few
original shares OF stock exist in thu
names of the present living shar,
holders. the Valley Turnpike Com
pauy will exercise such discretion Al
may be legally possible SO that thu
distribution of funds to the stock
holders will be made with the minimum
delay and Inconvenience to sait
stockholders 1t Is, therefore, re
ouested that all stock holders no
having possession OF original certia
Gates in their names make statement
which must be sworn to before
Notary Public, outlining in detail
their claim to stock.
All inquiries regarding the matte
should be had direct with the abov
named secretary
q. F. BYRD,
Sept. 13-1 mo. President.
Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1918-09-13
Near Beer tlndfr Ban
Hy NeW Prohibition Law.

Washington, Sept. S.--Manu-
featuring Of uear-beers aud sub
stitutes for beer, which have de-
veloped a f1ourislling business IN
prohibition territory. it was til
cialiy explained today, are just
as much affected by the decision
10 cut off brewing OF beer as
those WHO Ike the actual bey-
erage. Millions of dollars have
been invested in the business.
One of the largest breweries
in the country recently erected
AN additional nliiiion-dollar plan.
solely for the brewing OF this
beverage.
The principal uses brewerles
e,u be converted to are mama
f,cture Of ice, cold storage, mak
ing of yeast for baking, rolling
of barley and grinding grains
FIR mill feed. All these pur-
poses would likely be considered
essential to the war or to the
civil population.
Manufacture of all other bev-
ages of the so-called soft
variety, some months ago, was
curtailed so per cent by the Food
Administration as sugar con-
servation measure. Further cur
tailment Of the manufacture OF
such beverages and mineral wa
tiers are under consideration and
my take the form of further re-
ducing supplies of sugar, fuel,
materials for containers and food
products and limiting tranporta-
ton facilities.
The Senate resolution empow-
eriug the President to establish
prohibition zones around coal
mines, shipyatds and other war
Industries was Tavorably reported
to the House by The Judiciary
Committee, and when objection
prevented it's immediate consid-
Grafton, Chairman Webb gave
notice that lie would call it up
Monday under special rule.
Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1918-09-13
Young Men Are
Subject To Call.

Washington, sept. 10.-Youths o.
nineteen and twenty years and mer
| between the ages of thirty-two anG
thirty six inclusive, who register or
Thursday, will be the first to be call
ed to the colors, Provost Marshal
General CrOwder announced today,
and unit the supply of available
lighting material in their ranks has
been exhausted older men will not be
indicted into the service Question.
Baires will so out first to registrantS
of these ages ard local boards have
been ordered to proceed with their
speedy classification So that some OF
hem may be called in October.
Pointing out that in classifying
men above the age of thirty one the
army draft won Il be attacking the
country's economic life and entering
ar UNEMPLOYED field General Crowder
in public statement to all employ
ers and industrial representatives. ap
y,ealed for their aid in applying the
plan of industrial deferment so that
1.-The maintenance of the military es.
Enlistment and OF the national in
terest during the emergency" may not
be interferred with
Before issuing his appeal, Genera |
Crowder had again pointed ont that
on estimation of experts the War De.
partment should expect to draw from
the Classes above 81, only COL 200
physically fis for military service and
not entitled to deferred clsssi fication
on the grounds Of dependency or &C
cupation. He also said that men of
nineteen and twenty called we're en-
titled TO admission to the student
training corps at the 400 secondary
schools with which the War Depart
mept has made contracts but added
that this corps would number $50, 900
men while over 100000 youths be-
low q will register Thursday.
Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1918-09-13

Mrs. Bessie Helsley and chill
dren, spent Sunday evening with
Grover Hollar's family.
Mr.. and Mrs. Theodore Mauck,
Mr.. Terry Mauck and wife,
made a flying trip to Harrison
burg, last Wednesday.
Mr.. David Smoot, who is in
training Camp Fort Myer, D. c..
was home on a week lend fur
Tough.
The Harmony Grove Sunday
School will hold a festival at
Harmony Grove next Saturda y
night, Sept. 14th. Come enc
and all and have a good time.
Alden Heller, of Pittsburg, Pa
is visiting his father. Villa M
Hollar of this place.
Miss Mary Mumaw gave a
bean hulling last Tuesday night
Those present were: Misses Nora
Miller, Mamie and Mollie VOL.
verton, Ethel Stoneburner. Annie
Muma W, Mrs. Ada Stoneburner,
and Messrs. Stanley Stoneburner,
and Russell Mumaw.
Miss Mamie Wolverton was
visiting her sister, Mrs. Tom
Fadeley, Saturday.
Mrs. W. F. George is still very
much complaining.
Mrs. Sam George and family
spent Sunday evening at Mr.. L.
M. Cofmans. RED BIRD.