davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1918-05-12

Beautiful 10 acres. all in alfalfa: or paved road; good barn, garage, well and tank; well fenced and cross fenced; can give immediate possess sion; owner drafted, must sell.
Arizona republican., 1918-05-12

Come in and let us show you these bargains,
 Over Santa Fe Ticket Office.
 Corner Center and Adams. bg
The sun., 1918-09-15

w THILE Foch is launching his
"/ offensives at the front Paris
Is busy launching hers in
The sun., 1918-09-15

\ TUMEROUS methods Of con-
n serving ship tonnage have
been introduced since the be-
gnn.ng Of the war. The necessity OF
eliminating or at least reducing to the
minimum the importation of every
tang not absolutely essential has de-
'e.opcd conservation to the highest
point in foreign countries. One
method recently introduced is brought
70 light in an English publication,
where prominent firm OF stationers
advocates the repeated use Of a special
envelope by tearing off several coat
iHgs Of paper laid over its face.
With paper scarce here. although
not 10 point of acuteness. 1t Is ap-
parent that the thoughts of the Amer
csn stat!oner might be turned toward
the production of an envelope which
would serve many times. A standard
size envelope Of the style known as
the window envelope" could be easily
tlapted to this use by an additional
supply OF gummed flaps. so made as to
Iemit part 10 be pasted far enough
down on the face TO cover the post
marx and stamp. The name and ad-
dress Of the sender could be printed
on the flap instead Of in the upper
loft hand corner, The Introduction Of
slcn d method would save at least
The sun., 1918-09-15
WHY SOCIETY WOMEN WASH
THEIR OWN HAIR

They do, not because 1t is fad,
but because they wish to obtain the
greatest possible hair beauty and be
sure they are not using anything
harmful. They have found that IN
washing the hair it is never wise to
use makeshift, but is always adj
visable to use a preparation made
for shampooing only. Many of our
friends say they get the best results
from a simple homemade CanthroN
mixture. You can use this at IA cost
of about 3 cents a shampoo by got
ting some Canthrox from your drug
gist and dissolving a teaspoonful IN
a cup of hot water. This makes
enough shampoo liquid to apply I"
all the hair instead Of just the top
of the head, as with most prepara
tions. DandruT, excess oil aud DIRT
are dissolved and entirely disappear
in the rinsing water. Your hair will
be SO fluffy that II will look much
heavier than it is. Its luster and
softness will also delight you.--AdW
The sun., 1918-09-15
Ways Being Devised
To Cut Trade Waste

three-quarters OF the paper used in
each envelope.
When 1t 10 recalled that millions OF
envelopes used for business purposes
find their way into the waste basket
every week in New York alone 1t is
fair to assume that thousands OF tons
Of paper might be saved IL the prac-
tice of making them do repeated ser
vice was introduced throughout the
United States. Parcel wrappings
mailing tubes and great quantities OF
string might also be made to do re-
peated service.
The paper, cardboard and wood
used in packing cigars. cigarettes, to-
bacco and enclosing patent medicines
and other bottled household commod'
tiles, might also be conserved TO
great extent. A change in the method
OF retailing cigars, cigarettes and to-
baccos could also be made to save
tons OF tin which annually 60 tc
waste, or at least must be paid for by
the consumer The change would
merely mean larger packages. Cigars
for instance, instead of being packed
In boxes of twenty-five or fifty, might
AZ Ieaully NC poShoo Aa
that would hold 100 or multiples
thereof. and once the revenue tax was
paid they could be removed for re-
! failing purposes.
Many brands OF cigarettes arr
hacked in TIN and cardboard boxes
These usually have an interior wrap
ping OF paper. They come from the
manufacturer in another carton o.
cardboard or a wooden box. 1t is ap
| parent that economy means that som'
of these wrappings be eliminated. TIT
cigarettes might be placed in thei
interior wrappings Of paper and thui
packed in larger containers. A meta
holder that would serve for an in
DEFINITE period could be MANUFACTURED
and the cigarettes transferred to !
when purchased. Tobacco could b
similarly doled out. instead Of in TIT
present paper wrapping and tin box.
As to bottled commodities the onl.
apparent use of the cardboard cartol
is to provide space for advertising
the label being sufficient for direc
tons, contents and price. Furthe
conservation might be introduced b.
putting up these bottled commodities
especially household needs. ik
ketchup, salad oils and so forth. Il
large containers so that the house
keeper could take the original bottl
and have II refilled. thus saving o
glass production and cost
The sun., 1918-09-15
Freak Gun Fails Saons-Scarcity Materials
% Short Marrow Skirts but Ensembles Remain Charming

there is 1 variation in the treatment
language OF the day, hikes up either
in front or at the back,
The extreme shortness OF skirts
leaves little TO the Imagination OF the
man in the street save the contour
OF a woman's knee, and il jupes keep
climbing as they have for three years
past, knees too must soon be barred to
the gaze of an astonished world. As
it is, most of the skirts, both tailored
and for afternoon wear, fall a scant
six inches below the feminine patella.
Tailored skirts are severely plain;
many OF them with a strapped seam on
either side and a slight fulness at the
back to preserve the straight line.
Martial & Armand Is showing Jackets
OF the three quarters and seven
eighths length slit up the sides
TO the waist. which Is set perceptibly
lower down this winter. There is
nothing startlingly new in coat
that vary in depth from three 10
eight inches.
SIN More Fur Used.
Although from all sides arises the
wall that the fur market is depleted,
there scent to be more peits than ever.
Gray squirrel. moleskin and mink are
first faVorites for outer garments,
which are nearly all OF the cape va
riety, falling below the skirt and hav-
Ing carefully placed openings through
which pass the wearer's arms, en-
abling her to drape herself in the
pelerine as she pleases.
Fur collars are higher than ever ana
when fastened completely cover the
tip OF the nose, as II determined 10
! protect that feature against frostblte
abroad, whatever other tragedy might
befall II in the chill, unheated Paris
apartment. Dress collars also are very
high and take one back TO the days
when the Divine Sarah was a sylph,
her sl"nderness disguised by collars
that wrinkled up 10 her ear lobes and
long sleeves that wrinkled down TO
her finger tips, Martini q Armand
make a special feature OF the high
| collar, which Is boned at the side, fas-
tens under the left ear by. row OF
small, round buttons and loop button
holes. and even when the throat Is
barred In front remains high in the
back, with two tiny straps under the
chin 10 keep it in place.
Navy blue is enjoying n bit OF rest
! this season. one still finds it in some
one piece frocks. but for suits all
shades Of gray from the soft Quaker
tone to deepest steel are IN favor;
likewise Havana brown. tsupa wine
and purple.
| When viewed from the out Sdds tail.
ored frocks are discreetly demure. Blu,
remove the Jacket and the-e Is re-
vealed a gorgeous tunic blouse vivic
in tint and Oriental in trimming, as
for Instance, a tunic OF bright ochrs
yellow velvet. with a crush collar but
toned up to the chin, the bodice par,
trimmed with furnished gold lace ant
on the square front tab a band oil
Chinese blue embroidery.
Metallic effects are turned to al
sorts OF new uses this season and are
quite different from the metal tissues
of last year, Many of the tunics anC
AFTERNOON frocks are trimmed witt
leight inch gold women ribbon. which
when encrusted into tho goods loolSi
like 80 much embroidery.
, Rodier. master weaver OF France, Il
. responsible for ~sw Jersey that con
The sun., 1918-09-15
emine blue trcolee an embroidered
PARIS AUTUMN STYLES SHOWN DESPITE BIG BERTHA

sists of a silk thread alternating with
one OF metal, and this he has called
tricot lame. 1t glitters like a CRU
saders coat OF mail, but lacks its
heavi8ess. Another Rodier find il
serge lame. which. though it looks and
feels like d sheet OF flexible metal, at
ter all is nothing but serge.
Another novelty is reversible failie,
blue on one side and black on the
other. Dresses made OF this material
require very little trimming. odd and
unexpected effects being obtained by
turning the blue faille on tho wrong
side and presenting the black surface.
There is something new under the
sun since the discovery OF reversible
duvetyn. which is satin on one side
and soft woollen material on the other
and 1t has the economical advantage Of
doing away with coat Innings. \ well
planned model has the hem OF the
straight, narrow skirt turned up for
four inches, so that the wrong side
shows: which gives the effect OF a
wide band OF black duvetyn set on the
black satin.
This idea is repeated at the bottom
Of the Jacket, and both skirt and coat
have three narrow bands OF duvetyn
placed at regular intervals above the
hem. a large collar and deep cuffs OF
white fox trim the Jacket. and with the
costume is worn a draped white velvet
blouse, the bodice and short front
panel of which are embroidered in
motifs OF white, gold and black.
/ Black velvet suits also promise to DO
popular, and are made in the three
quarters length style and plentifuily
trimmed with narrow black silk braid.
Civet fur looks well on black velvet, az
does skunk for the high collar, tho
deep cuffs and the banding on the
skirt.
one piece dresses have slightly
changed in silhouette. They sull
cling to straight lines, but tend toward
the redingote effect or have floating
panels at the back-a step in the d.
rection OF the graceful Vatican pleat.
One Of these little dresses Is of dark
blue gabardine. with a floating panel
depending from the waist.
The front OF the bodice is of dull
raspberry satin embroidered in blue
wool, ana on either side OF the short
bolero jacket Ia a row OF blue bono
| buttons and raspberry satin button
holes. Skirt and sleeves are p!ped
with raspberry. and the tail collar can
DO worn either buttoned up under the
chin or thrown open. showing a square
| decolletage.
The sun., 1918-09-15
Changes In Winter Modes.

Subtle changes distinguish tho win
ter modes OF lsis-ds from those OF last
year. Though skirts continue to be
very tight and alaYmingly abbreviated.
The sun., 1918-09-15

vestee Stimulating an outside coat and
waistcoat. and again when it appeared
with a short. tight skirt anu rather
long overtunlc held down with string
belt or a wide sash. 1t Is now, how
ever, >that II has fully come into its
own.
One OF the excellent models is shown
In the new silvertone fabric of an
olive drab shade. The skirt is
straight, without fare or fulness, Just
as one would expect a coat to be made.
The dress buttons from neck to hem
at one side with bone buttons. A deep
collar OF rich brown seal finishes the
neck and Is slightly wider at one side
than the other. The only attempt at
ornamentation is a wide scarf OF trico-
lette the exact shade OF the dress
fabric, drsped around the waist and
looped end over end at the left side,
In such a we'll made, smart looking
frock. intended primarily for street
wear. one has all the appearance OF
wearing ole OF the new velours coats
brought gu: this fall.
Impossible 10 Avoid UsinS Blue,
1t seems impossible for most women
to get away from the blues, which
have given women in street crowds
almost an effect OF being in uniform
SO ubiquitous In this color. Blue un.
doubleday Is universally becoming--it
seems to give a clear tone to mos,
compilations apt to look more or less
dizzy b. contrast with other tones
and is SO easily matched for blouses
! hats and furs that ii is no wonder
women cling 10 it.
We must confess. however, to q
welcome for a brown, fawn. taupe oil
soft fawn shade as a relief from blues
monotony. Nothing could be NOR,
| pleasing than one of the coat dresse,
in fawn colored wool velours. With
no attempt at trimming whatever be-
yord a few rows OF machine stitchins
along the hem Of the skirt the frocl
is a. smart as may be desired. II !.
designed to be set on by a small necl
piece Of fur, and to go with II Their,
is also shown close fitting turbsn n
! tan beaver with a pheasant fame,
| perked up at one side.
/ An expression Of wool conserva tior
is brought out in a coat dress will
tho upper part Of a deep brown-reC
shade Of silk tricolette, quite as heav,
in quality as the lower part of tn,
skirt, which il made OF dark blu,
serge.
This dress has a wide scarf OF tri
The sun., 1918-09-15

of quaint effects. A black tulle fsock
embroidered in this long nap White
wool made one think OF new fallen
snowfiakes imprisoned in the Amy
fabric.
For evening wear Jenny employs
much black velvet and jet and one
finds the tentative Vatican pleat
slowly feeling its way into favor. How
ever, instead of hanging loose from
the shoulders it is slightly bloused at
the waist and confined by a narrow jet
girdle. One black velvet dinner frock
has a very deep round decolletage
filed in with white tulle that changes
1t to the square line. The sleeve con-
sists OF two narrow bands Of velvet,
one passing over the shoulder: the
other, Joined to it on the upper side.
passes under the arm, leaving the
armpit bare. Shocking to some Amer
leans in France but perfectly feasible
in the land where the safety razor has
its place on every woman's toilet
table.
Changes in Evening Dresses.
In evening dresses the very tight
| underslip closely outlines the figure
| and is three inches shorter than the
| embroidered tulle tunic. which is often
deeply banded with Jet.
Delft blue tulle over a pink satin
underdress that Is itself yelled in pink
| tul!e is an attractive model. The
tulle OF the skirt Is edged with n trim
ming OF blue ostrich tips. which also
| border the tiny sleeves, while big
! fluffy pink tulle bow makes a saucy
| finish at the back Of the waist.
Few French women buy evening
gowns during tho war. but for Ameri-
can importation there are filmy little
dresses consisting OF several superim-
posed layers OF tulle that form the
skirt. and here too Is used the feather
trimming. The bodices of these frocks
are sometimes OF draped metal tissue,
sometimes OF tulle. Two or three of
the collection Of evening frocks are
daringly decollete and open In a sharp
V to the very waist front and back.
Needless to say the stout woman must
eschew this danger line, but for a thin.
boyish figure the effect, though star
Ting, is neither immodest nor unpleas-
ant to behold. A small twisted velvet
bow marks the stopping point OF the
decolletage. and the mystery Is how
the wearer gets into her frock and how
she Ensembles her lingerie, il. indeed,
she wears any.
The ls3o-1S60 decolletage is coming
back and is delightfully."- reminiscent
of Empress Eugene and her court
ladies as painted by Winterhalter
Only the woman with impeccable
shoulders, however. should attempt this
fashion.
Another odd effect In evening frocks
Is the newest Jenny sleeve. A wide
ribbon encircles the waist, ending at
the front OF the corsage In big butter
fly bow. through the loops OF which
slip the wearer's arms. with the result
that she can neither move them UT
nor down, but must sit like "A good
little girl with her hands demurely
folded in her lap. But what woman
when she knows she looks WELL wants
TO be comfortable! Therefore this
feminine straitjacket has a fighting
chance for success.
Changes In wiater Modes.
Subtle changes distinguish tho win
ter modes OF lsis1e from those OF las
lyear. Though skirts continue TO b,
! very tight and alaYmingly abbreviated
The sun., 1918-09-15

tate fur. This master weaver has
even succeeded in producing what he
calls ''Toison dArgent"-silver fleece,
which looks like blue fox tipped with
silver and Is especially good when en-
ployed on evening wraps.
Metal velvet is another novelty that
Jenny uses for gilets with tailored
costumes. Narrow ermine bands are
used on black dresses and the same
idea is carried out in the angora
bands, which can hardly be distin-
guished from ermine.
Tan Angora for Trimmings.
One long blue serge Jacket has a
large tan angora collar that crosses
in front in surplice fashion and fastens
at the waist with q cameo. The skirt
has a deep band OF the angora at the
hem. In a marron top coat the an
CORA forms a high draped collar that
Imysteriousy becomes double breasted
gilet and then continues to the bottom
of the coat. 1t looks warm and COM
Portable and makes an excellent sub
stitute for the more expensive fur.
Black and white checks have not
lost the popularity they had last
spring and this design Is very success
fully combined with black velvet.
The severe English tailor. lie tdliestr
cldssiQue. as the French call it, IS be-
ing pushed into favor by nearly all the
| big dressmakers. 1t has the great
advantage of making a woman look
! distingue, lending her a dignity she
lacks in the more fanciful suits.
Another innovation Of Jenny's IL a
variation on the MILDLY blouse, which
idea Is used in a chemise dress of blue
silk jersey that has n killed skirt OF
blue crepe de chine. The upper part
is a replica OF n MILDLY blouse turned
up at the bottom with a band Of nat
tier blue angora, which trimming also
edges the elbow sleeves, the sailor col
lar and the little pointed decolletage
The bottom of this skirt has the band
of tulle described a paragraph or two
above.
Looking at the afternoon and more
elaborate dinner creations. you get the
impression that the mannequins have
somehow managed to put them on
wrong side before. SO that the from,
Is the back and the back the front
This is because all the trimming ID
at the front OF the gown while the
back remains severely unadorned
This impression is heightened by the
decolletage. which reaches the collar
bone In front but Is cut In a deep V be-
hind. This fashion will probably no,
last. for though it is eccentric 1t IL
unbecoming.
Top Coats with kimono Sleeves.
Many OF the top coats have kimonc
| sleeves and long collars that are reall,
capes falling to the waist line. Las
winter black satin coats trimmed with
fur were the vogue. the fur carefully
put everywhere except where 1t coult
keep the wearer warm. This winte
the fashion IL more sensible. Coat,
are still made Of satin, with the wild,
fur hem band Of last year. but tn,
entire top OF the garment is also mad
Of pelts.
A favorite trick OF Jenny's Is 4
use a touch OF geranium or brick will
navy blue. the unexpected CLINT o
color serving to catch the eye. whicl
then fingers over the other subti
beauties OF the frock.
Tho popular fuzzy wool embroider.
: Of this winter lends itself TO all sort
The sun., 1918-09-15
q, MARTHA GooDE ANDERSON

~ all the new designs brought
| out for fall there is nothing
~ destined to be so popular as
,se Sci uress. This Is in reality a
&C piece srock, but is distinguished
from the ordinary dress OF serge or
other woollen materials by its resem-
nance 10 an outside coat. The resem-
hsnce is caused by long. straight, Sc
The sun., 1918-09-15

! seem 10 subdueA the brilliant yellow
tone. Like all Of these hip sashes,
this Is draped to one side and finished
with fringed epds.
The short jacket has one sleeve and
one side Of the blue serge and the
other Of the yellow brown splashed
silk. 1t opens over vestee Of the
same sort Of silk.
I also have observed this dress made
The sun., 1918-09-15

called suede" is brown lined with
black worn over a black taffeta dress.
The brown and black combination
runs through the entire collection OF
frocks and is repeated in all sorts of
unexpected ways.
An Afternoon Gown.
One attractive afternoon gown is Of
brown tulle over black satin. Tulle is
almost necessity, according to
Jenny's idea Of the perfect costume.
Even with serge, where 1t would seem
to be too fragile to be practical, it is
used as a transparent three inch band
set at the edge of the hem. One false
step. with Madame's high heel CATCH
Ing in this nlmy trimming, and the
frock would be ruined. But there
| never lived q smart Parisienne who
even in war time wanted her gown
to be serviceable IL thereby she was
Obliged to sacrifice q novel and strik-
ing effect.
| Jenny's long coats are nearly all
| slit up the side to the belt, are straight
In the back. have high turnover col
lars and narrow grdles that differ
from those of last year in that they
start from the side seam and fasten
In front instead Of completely encir-
cling the body.
| The high collar also has it's place
In this collection. but 1t Is not the
Sarah Bernhard crush collar de-
scribed last week; rather it 10 one at
ats the throat snugly and does not
climb to such ambitious heights under
the ears. Jenny's collar has the ad-
vantage Of being worn either open or
closed. In the latter case 1t turns
back and takes the sailor shape, usu-
ally with a pointed opening at the
throat.
Some OF the collars on suits are
throw ties that go once around the
neck. with the ends hanging down
the back. This idea was used on a
blue serge coat in quite a new way
The short knife pleated skirt had two
narrow floating panels over the hips
which panels were nothing more than
the ends OF the throw tie slipped into
pocketlikos Sits in the jacket, from
which they hung three inches below
the hem OF the skirt.
Black and white Favored.
Jenny is again partial 10 the black
and white combination. which Is al
ways a feature Of her collection. Sh,
shows several black velvet model,
combined with white satin or white
mousseline de sole. One costume II
black velvet has pin stripe Of whit'
silk stitching all over it. This heavy
stitching in stripes is carried out II
many OF the dresses and Is a unique
feature. A blue gabardine dress Il
stitched in a gold thread.
This house also favors TUNES, whiol
are open and left flowing from tn,
front and back and trimmed on tn,
sides. Many OF the prettiest dresse
shown are tulle TUNES over very mar
row satin slips. The bodices At tn,
form naturally. with the waist line II
its natural place. ..'
As with Martial and Armand. Jenn,
uses the long blouse funic with thos
Of her tailored frocks that are no
made In tho three piece effect. Blu
instead OF the metal ribbon OF tn
nrst house she Is partial to chenill
} and wool embroidery. Angora Is use
almost as much al fur. Collars. cum
and NUTS are made Of Rodier's knit
, ted camels hair wool woven to imi