davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
New Foulards

w 7E ARE to have spring and summer
wv of silk, if present indications near
anything. The manufacturers have
been quick to take advantage of the scarcity
OF wool and have put on the market silks Of
very interesting designs. Many Of the new
loulards show dark ground very we'll covered
with a light design. Sometimes dots Of rree,,-
lar size are falrly powdered over the dark sur
lace At other times threadlike tracery is
spread over the dark ground. There are some
interesting foulards with white grounds al
most covered by the dark pattern.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Spiral Puttees

Spiral puttees may be worn by women as
we'll as by men. A skating gaiter brought out
at the end Of the season showed a regular but
toned gater around the ankles with the spiral
section above that winds about the leg as far
as the knee. There are also regulation spiral
puttees to be worn with sport shoes by wom
en-, for mountain climbing and other uses for
which women must wear short skirts or
breeches and still require warmth and protec
ton about the legs. Made of lightweight.
YVol, they are no heavier than the ordinary
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

lars in every color of organdy which have
jabots attached to them and worn with
dark suits. Always with the collar go the
cuffs.
France also shows the way in the use Of
blouse that is not entirely white. We have had
the colored belted blouses for two years, and
we have launched these with tailored ones of
muslin and softer ones Of filet lace; but tie
new blouse is Of plaid chiffon woven in thar
thick quality which the French like and which
wears better than muslin.
The sketch shows one of these French
blouses in blue and white checked chiffon, with
Eton collar Of blue organdy edged with
ruf1les Of Val lace and finished with jabot of
both materials which drops to the loose belt.
The sleeves are small at the top, flare bit al
the elbow and are caught into cuffs of blue
organdy edged with lace ruffles
The gingham and calico blouses that are
worn on the outside of the skirt with sash
are only makeshift for the mornings and for
sports, but the colorng is repeated in vcile
and this tough chiffon for the best coat suits
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Velvet Paraso.s

Among the many lovely parasols now snow
Tor the South are many made of veNs
doubtless these will prove a feature OF 0'
summer wardrobes The velvet is always r
heved by trimming or lining of chiffon
Georgette crepe, and often it is cut away
snow putfs Of the lining beneath it. AnolaD
novel parasol is one tnat, closed. looks y,
q huge knitting bag. 1t is made with W
short ferrule and handle, and when it is closs
1t is carried by two rings of ivory or tort0s
shell and looks for all the world like =.
ting bag. 9
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

motoring! They are made Of silk rags sewed
and braided or minted into a-enveloping hoods
Tor the motorist. OF course, very attractive
color schemes may be obtained in this way
either by using silk scraps or different coors
on by dyeing them after they are braided
That wooden mountings are the latest thing
IN handbags? The whole frame of the bao is
made of wood finished in a dull, unvarnished
brown, and the bags mounted in these frames
are made of silk velvet Many interesting
shapes are achieved by means of carving the
wood.
That silk gingham is used for collar and
cuff sets on frocks Of serge and other heavy
fabrics2 The gingham used is usually in small
checks The collars and cuffs are edged with ,
tiny pleated frill.
That IN deciding on the length of the skirt
Tor your new dress you have considerable lee
way? prominent French dressmaker saws
that nothing should be shorter than six inches
from the floor. Some of the distinctive even
ing and afternoon frocks are considerably lonp-
cr than this, and street and sport frocks are
worn shorter than this with perfect impunitv
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Ginghams and Jersey
In Blue, Pink and Red

SO, what Palm Beach in doing we know
The gowns there show the slender silhouette, a
prevalence of black and white worn separately
together, the second introduction of gng-
ham and the experiment with the calico of the
Southern mills
There is no return to lingerie gowns as was
family promised, but there is overwhelming
vote cast for jersey in its artificial silk weave,
as we'll as the thin woollen that looks
like mems underwear.
Cornfower blue, deep pink, plaids, checks
and touches OF crimson are worn. None of
these facts is to those who have watched
The progress Of fashions since Christmas
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

should be quite weary Of black on the head
for 1t has had six years of velvet, straw and
satin in this sombre shade. We are now to
wear Gobeln blue rose pink. Mandarin yellow.
leaf green and scarlet attached to black.
The turban is the thing, although there arc
women who cannot abide it. who look i'll in il
and who will insist upon the brim
II they do they will be in fashion, There
is no one law that governs the whole The
beaver dam turban, however, with it's round
crown, is a somewhat new note in millinery.
And another thing that is of interest is that
the French milliners have taken the collar
and put it on the hat. They have insisted for
three years upon what is known as the fence
colar--a wired, outstanding ruffe of organd,5
and their women have liked and ~orn If
with spirit and dash. Now it has gone nm
several inches and tries to cover the crown of a
hat instead of the neck of a woman
The sketch shows such hat made of blue
straw, with the organdy rufiie scalloped at tho
edge and securely wired in order that it will
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Lace Veil Attached

One OF the striking French hats recently
shown IS made all Of black There is a aOa
ing lace Veil sewed securely to tie hat, ys
with all the seeming nonchalance of We
carelessly donned. Perhaps il nlight be COZ
pared with Spanish mantilla IN grace an
at the same time dignity of flowing line that
assumes, out not the mantiila as worn by II
Spanish peasant, but as adapted and Parlsis'
ized by the Empress Eugene fifty years al
more aoo
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
High Lights on
Fashions in France

In Paris the buyers have not found any as
founding inspirations, but they have been faced
with enough that is to realize that they
can make d persuasive appeal to women in the
pring. They also know that the silhouette
has been definitely changed.
Here are some Of the facts that the cables
and letters from Paris tell us:
Skirts are exceedingly narrow at the hem
and tucked under to resemble Zouave trousers:
panels OF tulle and of new metallic Egyptan
stuff are used back and front to form this
trousered effect on narrow skirt
Glrdles are wrapped around the hips and
waist, in Oriental form. The hips are not,
fitted to the figure, unless by one of these
Oriental grdles
While all the skirts are slender. they give
no evidence of being stineily cut; that is, thew
do not outline the figure by the sheer result of
scissors and seams They show the figure and
attain attenuation by means of draperv that is
as difficult as it is successful.
1t is not am easy skirt for the amateur. for
the bungler or for the taller who is used 70
the hot iron, the straight seam and the LARGE
needle.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Big Collars and Jersey
Coats for Youngsters

The adult fashions which are copied for then
include the ne use OF checked jersey and the i'm
used to provide a color scheme for coat al
goes well with tie garment The material j
repeated IN immense cuffs. and these two ar
part and parcel CT our fashionable apparel 70
the spring.
The spring coats for youngsters will be o
checked Jersey, such as the one shown in tn
sketch
This white surface is dashed with cross bar
OF deep pink. and the immense collar, whcl
halt covers the shoulders and flares cut into
wide panel on the skirt is made OF solid pink
Jersey The belt and cuffs are both of this
material.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Shopping Notions: Do You Know?

That for some reason or other pettcoats N
gay colors are i'll demand this spring? If vo,,
cannot afford one of tatfeta or messaline thcro
are very pretty sateens in bright colors. some
OF them with printed flowers. They are fairly
Scant and, unlike the petticoats of wore. usually,
short enough to need no alteration for the
average woman
That for spring coats the fabric par excel
lence is some sort of heavy satin or other silk
since 1t is an act of patriotism now to conserve
wool?
That TO wear a silk coat does not mean that
one must go cod for, following the lead of
the French designers. between-season satin
coats are made with an interlining of ouiltinpo
Albeit this is of cotton batting it is warm
That hop sackng is one of the newest fab
RIGS for coats when they are made of wool?
That capes are due for a period of popu-
larity? Wraps for rainy days and motoring.
even, made in cape fashion. And although
the vogue has not become craze, it is likely
to be taken favoraby by smartly dressed
women.
That rag bonnets ase the latest thing for
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

Of jersey, voile and serge carry broad hand
kerchief collars of plaid gingham. Dark suits
and one-piece frocks carry high, rolling COZ
lars and broad, gauntlet cuffs of blue, rose.
lavender and yellow organdy edged with fet
lace or with the organdy itself
The use of brilliantly striped and checked
gingham for entire collars has met with ap-
proval in France, although it is still ques-
tion in allegiance over here.
The prophecy is that America will take to
these collars with eagerness. We like ging-
ham. Whenever we get chance to wear it we
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

is embroidered with roses and large consplcu-
Gus designs formed of silk thread and beads.
Thread lace is revived in such fashion
that one believes it was taken from the shelves
Of other years and from the trunks of other
decades. Palm Beach has already started to
wear Chantlly lace and it is more than proba-
bic that America will go in for lace season.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Old Laces Drafted
Into Active Service

The dressmakers do not care for this fashion
much would expect, for they have to
deal with the difficult problem of using their
best customers old laces It is not a task for
civil engineer TO make flounces into modern
clothes, but such an expert seems to be neces-
sary when is asked to turn berthas old
lace frocks, scarfs and dolmans into a gown
that is as modern as tomorrow
The moment one suggests founces the aver
age mind gets quick vision of fulness Of
skirts that flare. but this vision should be in
stantly eclipsed by another which shows that
everything is scanty and nothing allowed TO
fare
Black tulle gowns have these thread lace
7ounces on them, and they are draped over
excessively narrow forms of black SATIN and
if there is any tendency on the part of the lace
to fling itself out in defiance of the now sill
houette it is promptly suppressed by bard
of jet or embroidery which tucks it under the
hem OF the lower skirt and keeps it in order
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
A Tidal Wave of
Short, Scarflike Wraps

Every letter from Paris lays stress upon
the short wraps They are made like attenu
ated do!mans- They are of chiffon of the new
clustering Egyptian tissue, of satin lined or
trimmed with fur and OF embroidered tulle.
They resemble elaborate scarfs Some of them
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Children Thieve
Our fashions

There is growing evidence Oh every side thai
Juvenile apparel is more securely founded on
grown-up apparel than it has been since The
ancient days when the poor youngsters Of Eu-
rope wore their stiAly brocaded skirts thai
swept the ground and their whalebone bodice:
that held their figures as in wise.
Since Paquin, Cheruit, Lanvin and other Of
the masters of clothes have contributed much
to children's costumery ard delight in the
whimsical things that American mothers are
beginning to adopt, We have greater sophistna-
ton IN juvenile clothes than heretofore.
On one hand this IS deplored; on the other
1t IS accepted with enthusiasm The children
Like II
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

rush in and almost spoil it by overpopularity.
For those who do not like the al-gingham
collars there will be nainsook. organdy ami
heavy tilet lace ones edged with broad bands of
ringham
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

n ARlS and Palm Beach command the
tention of those whose fortunes are tied
up in women's apparel. Paris is more
important in large sense; Palm Beach in
smaller sense. 1t depends on the viewpoint.
Paris is exhibiting to the American buyers
the things that will wear; Palm Beach is
exhibiting to society and the fashion reporters
those things that were devised for US to wear
long ago as December l.
Paris is in the experimental stage; it is pre-
pairing for the future Palm Beach is trying
out what has been prepared. We have not as
vet seen in this country any of the Paris
gowns. In Palm Beach the gowns which were
either invented by Americans or were sent over
by Paris as forerunners are being shown here
there and everywhere. 1t is not possible
therefore, for a sartorial engineer to build a
connecting bridge between the two episodes in
fashion,
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Spring Fads and Fancies

skating stockings, and are somewhat less eS
penslve than leather leggings
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
Broad Collars and Sashes
ON Slenderly Cut Gowns

It appears that the dressnakers are gO.as
to camouaage the slim little gown made from
two or three yards Of material
The woman with the fichu. the girdle and III
sash viii probably be considered much mer,
seemly and modest in appearance than the
more clean-cut specimen Of fashion.
The fichu and the sash are extremely eood
looking. They jumped over the horizon of
fashion as the sun does at dawn in China The
dressmakers have made both these accessuje,
fascinating and colorful. The fichu has deyel
oped itself into a soft shoulder drapery tha,
brings one back to the eighteenth century, ah5
the sash is merely foundation for a splashing
amount Of embroidery.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
CHILD'S COAT OF PINK AND WHITE
CHECKED JERSEY

With collar of solid pink jersey running t,
hem. Cuffs of pink
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
The Chance
for Cirdles

On these slim gowns there is no doubt thai
the girdle has its really big chance to be con
spicuous. The dressmakers have gone into th,
museums for inspiration. We are heirs to al
the ages in regard to the kinds of sashes ths
are twisted about our waists.
There are big corselets and simple sats
foldings; there is Chinese ribbon ending !,
green jade rings and black and gold tassels
there is rose pink corded silk embroidered witt
worsted roses, in the Victorian manner. an5
the newest thing is the fchu collar that slip,
under the big girdle and resolves itself into az
embroidered sash end that adds over hail
ward to the width Of the skirt.
The new frocll shown in the sketch is d
biscuit colored voile. with girdle Of soft blu
silk The deep collar of the material is line
with the silk and crosses in front. and one END
passes under the blue girdle and spreads out 10
form sash end, which is boldly embroiderei
in blue worsted.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
The Ginghan Collar
in Plaids and Colors

letter from Paris says that the white
collar has given way to a colored one. Gowns
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

not lose its stiff, starched appearance and
regular line above the face.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24
The Turban That
Has a "Fence Collar"

The milners have especially laid stress upon
hats in color, instead Of black. The world
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

OF fine black straw, with a curviag brim Gn.,
with pink silk. The only trimming is 4 bus.
pink rose at the back. strap of black veiv.,
ribbon gees under the chin.
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

tissue is used to hold in these short wraps at
the walstline and to form a bow or ends at
the side or the back
The Thread Lace
Dinner Gown
The half decoletG evening gown continues as
the dominant fashion. We have not vet ac-
cepted it wholehcartedly in America, but
larger degree of enthusiasm may be shown for
it when the informal social life Of spring and
summer begins.
Black tulle, thread lace and the lace hounces
are constantly shown to the American BUYERS
IN the new evening gowns The black tullc
New-York tribune., 1918-02-24

That hop sacking is one of the newest fab
RIGS for coats when they are made of wool?
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29
TELL THE TRUTH

Traveller through times treacherous
 thicket, r Tell the truth. 'Tis thy transport. 'tis thy ticket; Tell the truth.
 Tell, though toiling; tell, though
 tilIing;
 Though thou'rt troubled, trembling,
 trllling,
 Tell the truth, triumphant thrilling; Tell the truth.
 Thought that's twisted, twists the
 thinker;
 Tell the truth. Truth that's tinkered, taints .-sthe
 tinker; - Tell the truth. .c Tolls true tasks truths thorough
 tending, Times true trail, to trace truths
 trending, = Thoughts true throne, 'tis truth transcenddng; a Tell the truth. - To myself, thou'rt truths trans
 lator; .,. Tell the truth. Though the. thousands term thee
 traitor, ..- Tell the truth.
 'Tis triumphant truth they're trying 'Tis fthe tempter's tolls thou'rt ty-
 ing, ,,. 'Tis through, time thou'rt testifyins' Tell the truth.
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29
WOMEN WATERS FOR
 ALASKA SERVICE is
 BEING TALKED ABOUT

Seattls.-Oldtimers on the Seat tie waterfront are waiting with in terest and foreDoding to-see if the animation given out by steamship companies is carried into effect. This was that, the companies were seriously considering the signing on of women as waitresses aboard yes sels plying from Seattle to Alaska and in the California trade. If the plan is adopted, the women will become members of the crews, and some sort of uniform will have to be adopted for them.
 "It can't be done" is the way the boatswain of an Alaaska liner viewe". the matter. They'll all get seasick the first day they go to work and somebody will have to wall on them"
 Women cooks on the, vessels may come next, said. an officer of one of the steamship companies.
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29
WILL USE POWER SEEDS
 ON FAIRBANKS TRAIL

John Brewer, who has the winter contract for carrying the mail be- tween Chitina and Fairbanks the next tt UT years, just returned from trip to the interior. He says that his company intends to main tain a passenger stage line in con nection with carrying the mail and will have all the necessary equip ment b" the time the snow flies.g
 As "a departure from the Q horse stage his company has made a stage ear on sled runners propelled with an aerial propeller, which is said to send the vehicle along at a good rate of speed. The only drawback to the new invention is that when it strikes a deep Tut in the road 1t is apt to stick for want of clearance, This can be remedied by elevating the body of the coach. so as to clear obstacles and low places.-Cordoys' Times. ''t
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29

and a chancellor nave confessed, an innocent victim Of German self defense? Then we have to ASK its forgiveness, and not force con ditions on it. This Is question of the deceney, morality and honor of the nation"
 ProOably Harden Is now in 1sli for his honest, conscientious, states manlike utterance, and doubtless his oaper is under suspension, put he let loose 8 truth that will find lodgmept in the minds of some in telligent German people who are not enslayed to military autocra- cy. C
 seizing upon Harden's plea for elemental justice as a text, one American dreamer writes: .g
 If Germany wants peace, this is one way to get it. Let the kais- CT aopoint Maximilian Harden chan cellor. Let Harden announce that he will not retain office except WhI a ths reichstag supports him, ana let the reichstag demand that he be not dismissed while the reichstaS supports him. Then let Harden be empowered to mako peace, offering these terms, as to Belgium, and In Yiting the allies to propose terms as to other issues. Let him give assurance as to the Eastern front in the same spirit as this concession on tho West. On this basis, peace could pe negotiated"
 If America and her alAes were opium eaters, the plan might work and then the negotiated peace would be only an armistfce. A ne gotiated peace to which the al lies could consent would'be possible only by the removal of, the: entire house of HohenEonerps from the continent of Europs and its con 5inemen+ in some such manner as Napoleon was imprisoned at St. Helena, and the disarmament of Ger many. But the All Highest will not voluntarily make the personal sseri- flee in the interests of his people. The only conditions which the civil ized world will accept must De imposed on the kaiser by force. A million Maximilian Hardens would be unable to effect a negotiated peace so long as the kaiser re- mains an irremoVable authority. Portland Telegram,
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29
FINE DISPLAY EXHIBITED u
 IN YUKON TERRITORY

Dawson, Aug. 1S.-One of the most remarkable features of the Discovery Day celebration was the fine display of minerels. flowers. vegetables and other articles which were shown at the Minto park pa william under direction of the Pio- neers. ,. 70 !
 The most vital of all exhibits there was that Of the minerals. Fine samples of ore bearing copper, sil- yer, gold and other minerals were given. Snace forbids mentioning them 1, detail today. H
 Of tha growing articles, g not able cne vas a cherry tree with many rins cherries on it, entered by MT. ]. Blaker. These were the first growing cherries many of the Klondike kiddies ever saw and some having never seen grapes nor cher ries growing, thought they were grapes. .- = .,l
The daily Alaskan., 1918-08-29
EDITORIAL
MAN WHO KNOWS THE
 RUSSIAN

I, is the earnest American ae- sire 10 do whatever is best to be done for Russia and the Russian people. There is more than politi- cal significance to that desire. Re peated revolutions, the bedeyilment of the Berlin propaganda aided and abetted by the fatuity of the Bol- shesik have begot chaos. The ma chinery of industry is in a mess Of wreckage. Agricultural actiyi- ties are paralyzed. Starvation men aces. Tn such condition it is diff cult 70 find in Russia 8 basis of reasonable rehabilitation. The Ioundations for constructive work to the recreation of an orderly state l- lacking. .FlS;
 IL is evident that this fact is appreciated by the American gov erumeut. but tkere is not yet even the outline of progressive. much less Q comprehensive program for procedure with regard to Russia. Manifestly the first step is to know what most expeditiously may he done in friendiiness for the relief of the Russian people; and to learn We must get next to the Rus sian Ieople themselyes-get in con rac. with them on the basis of sympath tic understanding, so that We may have some accurate idea Of what their practical needs are. In this, as it appears to us, there is work for the American commis- siouer who knows Russia; who has an intimate personal knowl- edge of it's people, of their Ian guage. of their customs, Of their temperament.
 It is because he possesses these very qualifications that William H. Galvani, of this city, is put for ward as one eminently to be con sidered as fitted for the delicate task we must undertake in Russia the task of friendly helpfulness- that must precede all political and military considerations and actions, unless the latter are to be grieV- ously misunderstood by the Russian people.
 Mr. Galvani combines demicratic sympathies with a highly cultured mind. A hater of the old stock of Russiau autOcracy, it follows that he is earnestly committed to the new order, the new creation of free Russia-a Russia that will be in truth the heritage and posses sion O. the Russian people.
 In any commission elected for the important work of sounding the Russian need, to the end that It may he supplied In American sym athy and with American help, the more men of the Galvani type the mora efficiently will that commis- sion do its wOrk,-Portland Tele- gram.