davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
Given
Drastic Change

New York.-The world that amuses
or instructs itself by watching the
changes in dress finds itself highly
diverted in the month of May. This
is the time for settlement. February
is full of rumors and cables from
Paris concerning the gowns that are
exploited there by the dressmakers.
During the month Of March the
clothes that arrive in America are
shown first by the importers, who
cater to the dressmakers, then by the
dreSSmakers and shops, who cater to
the public. After the first week Of
April the public takes a hand in the
settlement of fashions and wears its
new spring clothes at all hours, with
reckless prodigality.
Now, asserts a leading fashion au-
thority, we come to the month of OBJ
servation. We see what has failed
and what has succeeded. We know
what the public likes and what it has
discarded.
Established Neckline.
In the settlement of fashions which
comes this month there is n FREEDOM
inant feature that interests the ma
jority as well as the minority. 1t is
the new arrangement of the %neckline.
This style has been creeping on us
unawares since January, but it seems
to have sprung out Of ambush and at
tackled the people as the warm wealth
er burst owe the land.
Those who were not observing fash
ion closely went about with their
shirtwaist collars pulled out over the
coat collars, or the wide collars of
guimpes pulled out over the bare edge
of a one-piece frock.
Then, suddenly, the whole process
seemed to be wrong. The careless
public observed that the fastidious
crowd had abandoned white coat col
~ lars. They also noticed that the neck
line of a one-piece frOck was not out
lined by a collar except at the back.
They noticed that sailor collars had
disappeared from fashionable gar
ments. They realized that the neck
iluS, llolCdu VI beluS f-SlIdpcu, was
square and deeply decollete, or delta
Shaped-the decolletage that we asso-
ciate with Dresden shepherdesses,
Dolly Warden styles, Mozartian opera
and Janice Meredith. This kind of
neckline was accepted only for frocks
it should go without saying that it was
not contemplated for coats.
But whatever the garment, it's neck
line was no more hidden and envel-
Oped by a white collar. 1t is quite
probable that this somersault in fash
ions disturbed the minds of more
women than ever the incoming of the
tight skirt, for it necessitated thought
and an entire change in the arrange
ment of the garments which have
been carelessly worn in the same COM
bination for several seasons. 1t made
n go into numerous shops and re-
gard ones self for numerous moments
before mirrors in order to secure e
satisfactory adjustment Of the new
fashion to ones neck and face.
High Collar on Coat Suits.
And another movement in the ar
rangement Of the neck is disquieting.
1t is the Introduction Of the high COL
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
BULLETIN ON STRAWBERRIES
May Be Obtained Free Of Cost From
Division Of Publications, at
Washington, D. c.

A new Farmers Bulletin, 901, Is
devoted to Everbearing strawberries.
The general tone Of the bulletin is
favorable for such varieties Of berries.
1.-THE plants are very hardy, their fol-
iage is very resistant to disease, and
under favorable conditions they con-
tinue to produce berries until hard
frosts occur" says the bulletin. The
bulletin admits that E%verbearing
strawberries are best adopted to elf
mates with a uniform rainfall through
the summer. 1t Is free. Write to d.
vision of publications, department Of
agriculture, Washington, d. G.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

The satin in this frock is arranged as
redineote to show a wide front
panel of biscuit-coIored g%eorgette
boldly embroidered In black. The
sleeves are short, and the scarf Is
attached to the frock.
may be on the italian model, or it may
be on the American Colonial model,
which brings the material high and
neck and then dips it down to a deep
square or delta in front.
The Introduction of the high collar
seems to have come about through ne
cessity rather than choice or inclina-
ton. True, there are smart women
who insist that their one-piece frocks
shall have these outstanding, flower
like collars that rise on the stem of
the neck and open out wide to envelop
the chin and the back of the head, but
the majority of women have adopted
high collars only with coat suits. They
don't know any other kinds of collar
to adjust with a jacket that is high in
the neck and has rolling revers.
They find that the wash blouse,
which has q high turnover collar and
is worn with q cravat of black or col
ored picot ribbon, gives just the right
silhouette to the neckline of an every
day coat suit. If this high collar can
not be adopted, then a low one must
be worn with the suit, because of it's
collarless condition.
Strength of SurpIice Jacket.
The lessened number Of chiffon
blouses shown this summer is indica-
tive Of the lesSened number of tailored
is true that the shops are filled with
wash blouses, which are always in de-
mand for many reasons. However,
there is a large segment of Anglo
Saxon women who will not forsake the
coat and skirt, and they will cling to
1t, If not for humane reasons, in order
to give men work, then for personal
reasons. 1t is our uniform, and we
know how to wear it. We are not
nearly so sure of the one-piece frocks
as we are of the well-cut, well-sewed
coat and skirt. 1t Is futile, therefore,
to speak Of its abolition while this
strong feeling Of approval exists for 1t
in this country, as in England. And
because Of this condition it Is we'll for
women to realize that the buttonless
jacket, OF the surplice kind, is the one
preferred.
One might deduct, in looking at these
surplice jackets, chemise robes, Slip
overwhelmed tunics and Cabot
mummy gowns, that 1t is a b%uttonless
era. We are to be tied into our
clothes from now on. In truth, those
startling Callot frocks for afternoon
and evening, which strike the only
really new note since 1915, give one
a quick memory of the ludicrous cos
tunes Of those who took part in pic.
mic days, hopping along in coffee
sacks tied at the feet, through a lane
of cheering, excited pleasure seekers.
Copyright, 1918, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate.)
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

The sketch shows a gown Of black
satin, with tight skirt and pointed
apron lined with white. The slim
bodice is Of white georgette crepe
embroidered with bands of let beads.
lar at an hour when the high fashion
designers decided to discard 1t, and
the public was informed that it was
no longer in first fashion. No sooner
had this edict gone out and been ac-
cepted than a vast number of women
-~well-dressed women, too-appeared
with high loose collar, that either en-
veloped the chin or rolled in a loose
fold beneath 1t.
There are two or three practical
things that every woman must some
how manage to master In this new
fashion If she intends to look her best
during the warm-weather season.
One of them is that q coat suit re-
quires some kind Of collar at the back
and sides Of the neckline, to prevent
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
Unusual Weapon.

John was asked to go to the store to
get a dozen of eggs. On his way a boy
took away his hat and John began to
cry. When he got to the store the man
asked: "Who hit you, John?n
"a dozen eggs" was the reply.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

the rough material from resting
against the skin.
Another feature of the new neck ar
rangement which 1t is well to absorb
into the mind is that the blouse with
the Italian decolletage is the best to
wear under all coats. 1t is wiser to
avoid superimposing n collar on an
other. This Italian neckline may be
round, or straight across the shoulders,
or brought to the base Of the neck.
The wearer must decide on that. Her
features should determine the exact
curve which is employed.
Low Neck for Day Usage.
Another interesting detail Of fashion
Is the definite tendency toward q deep
decollete for day usage. The neckline
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
Time to Retire.

Prospective Employer-Why did you
leave your last place?
Chauffeur-The guy l worked for
went crazy. Started shingling his
house when his car needed new tires.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
Force of Habit.

"Say, Maggie, what has become of
that drug clerk who was paying you
such marked attention."
Il guess he thought l was a bottle
of medicine. He shook me-"
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

To remove surplus hair send your
well-tilled mattress to be done over by
a tricky upholsterer.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Flattery is the bridge some men
walk over to reach the good graces of
others.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Remember the future is waiting for
you. Start now.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Courteous thrive better iS
given plenty of public exercise.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Many a follow believes that "camou-
flage" originally was used on keyholes.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Many a blessing in disguise is a
blessing only because it is disguised.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

sist of a 2 to 3 cylinder pump with a
capacity of 8 to 8 gallons of spray ma
terial per minute, and able to furnish
a pressure Of 200 to $50 pounds. These
outfits are equipped with gasoline en-
gines of from 2 to 4 horsepower and
usually are provided with a 20O-gallon
tank, and good agitation.
The makes Of spray machines now
on the market vary a good deal in
durability and efficiency. The fruit
grower, before selecting an outfit.
should consider carefully the several
designs and choose an outfit that will
best meet his requirements.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31

Black satin is charmingly decorated
with white crystal beads.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
A Word of Precaution.

JUST wherein lies the reason for the use Of vegetable preparations for infants
} and children
Why are any but vegetable preparations unsafe for infants and children ?
Why are Syrup, Cordias and Drops condemned by all Physicians and
most laymen?
Why has the Government placed a ban on all preparations containing, among
other poisonous drugs, Opium in its vmiOusy prepared forms and pleasing tastes
and under its innumerdde names?
These are questions that every Mother will do we'll to inquire about.
Any Physician will recommend the keeping of Fetchers Castora in the
house for the common ailments of infants and children.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1918-05-31
High Collar on Coat Suits.

And another movement in the ar
rangement of the neck is disquieting.
1t is the introduction of the high col
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
IFI WERE A FARMER.

If / were farmer I would keep
at hand a few reliable medicines fol-
minor ailments that are not so seri.
Gus as to require the attention of g
physician such as Chamberlain Coli,
and Diarrhoea Remedy for bowel
complaints.
Chamberlain's Cough Remedy fol
coughs, colds and Groups.
Chamberlain's Liniment for sprains
bruises and rheumatic pains.
Chamberlain's Tablets for stom.
ach troubles, biliousness and consti
patton.
This would require an outlay o.
only s1.10. BY having these arti
cles at hand it would often save tn:
trouble of trip to town in thu
busiest season or in the night, ant
would enable me to treat slight all
ments as soon as they appear, AMI
thereby avoid the more serious dis
eases that so often follow.
(adv-apriD
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
Some Old ChiIdren's Books.

v John Newbury set the fashion Of
publishing Juvenile story books about
1856, retaining Goldsmith and others to
write them, and in the list Of such pub
locations 1t is somewhat startling to
come across TON Jones" and Joseph
Andrews"-"abridged for the amuse-
ment Of YOUTH" IL Is true, bat not at
all in the direction one would expect,
says the Boston Globe. There was,
however, quite literally, powder in the
jam, even with Newbufy's publications.
The worthy publisher was the proprie.
tor Of the famous DR.. James Powder,
and contrived to introduce ingenious
references to this profitable sideline in,
to his book. Thus In "Goody-Two
Shoes" the herOine's father dies miser.
ably because "seiZed with a fever In q
place where DIR. James Powder was
not to be had"
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
By THE DOOR CALLED JOHN
Quaker courtship In Which Woman
Frankly Expressed Herself n Pa
voring Brother Of Wooer.

A few weeks ago the Youths Com
panion reported two or three strange
and amusing courtships Of New Eng
land tradition. A reader was moved
TO add another to the list-this time
q Quaker one. In q small town. or
which about half the population were
friends, two brothers, John and Jo-
seph. shared a farm that adtoined the
property Of Sarah, a spinster in early
middle Me. Both brothers In their
youth had been obvious suitors for
oaRah's hand; but they were slow and
6i@dent, and neither ever reached the
polnt Of proposing. Then an enter
pr1sing and audacious young woman,
Who belonged to "the worlds people,
somehow extracted a proposal from
Joseph-or dispensed with one-and
married him. After several years OF
matrimony she died, leaving him with
two little girls. As soon az propriety
permitted he betook himself to his
spinster neighbours, and, according to
local tradition, spoke thus:
ait is borne in upon me, Sarah, that
thee would make an excellent wife"
81 have no leading to contradict
thee, Joseph" replied the lady de-
murely.
"Also, Sarah, believe thee compe-
tent to be an admirable mother"
''Thy judgment is to be respected,
Joseph"
"Thy housekeeping is well esteemed,
Sarah. The women say there IL no
better housekeeper in the place"
II am assured thee would not listen
to light gossip, Joseph"
"Then, Sarah, will thee marry meF'
= "Nay, Joseph, am not moved to
consent. But-thee may repeat thy
kind words about me to thy brother
John IL thee thinks best"
$50 that thee will enter the family.
Sarah, and care for the household, i
care not by which door thee comes in.
1 have no further inclination toward
the married state for foolish reasons "
whether my>reasons are foolish or
no, Joseph, will only come II / am
hidden by the door called John"
II was by the door called John that
she was soon welcomed, to rule, gently
and to order wisely a double family.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
u, S. NAVY NEEDS MEN.

The Navy Department authorizes
enlistment in all branches of the SER
vice, absolute maximum, until fur
Their orders, in order to get men to
man our ships in use and building.
Our Navy is carrying men, food, ETC.,
across, and fighting submarines.
The Navy offers education along
different lines, and physical devel-
opment.
Pay is from $3.50 to $4,000 per
month, not including clothing,
board, medical attention, and
this pay does not stop until dis
charged.
All enlistments. are for duration of
the war only. Men of draft age
are accepted if they obtain release
from their draft board. Age for en-
listment is Is to 35.
If you are thinking of helping
Uncle Sam clean up the Kaiser and
his followers, it may pay you to call
at some of the following recruiting
Offices and investigate, or just write
for any information you care for:
Postoffices, Paducah, greensboro, Ash.
land, Fayette Bank, Lexington, q
Kentucky Post Building, Covington
Alp S. Fourth street, Louisville
Four thousand young Kentuckiane
have been enlisted in this branch the
past IL months, at Louisville. Il
you know of any of these boys, yor
can find that they are we'll pleased
with the branch they selected.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
REALLY MORE THAN NEEDED
,Yeunostsr Asked oed 70 Send Nice
cssfRaia and 4 Deiuos Flooded
Fields 81 the Southwest.

We were living in the Southwest,
Tor weeks and months we had no
rain, relates a writer In the Country
Gentleman. Every day big, promising
looking clouds rolled up, broke apart
and drifted away. Streams were dried
up, vegetation was burning up and life
was well-Aigh unbearable to man and
beast. From j to Is inches Of sand
and dust covered the highways; gnats
made life hideous; heat parched our
skin and throats. Rain was the only
relief, and rain we did not get. Every
night at bedtime .four-year-eld Robert
on Bonded knees by his little white bed
asked God: please don't forget to
send a nice, cool rain"
One day the big, black clouds rolled
mp as usual, but we noticed that they
were all fringed with green. Pretty
soon a big wind sprang up and leveled
small houses and barns, broke down
trees, scattered chickens, ducks, straw
and haystacks all over the country. A
big hail followed the wind, and then
came rain-a perfect deluge! Streams
rose clear out of their banks and the
water came creeping over the fields
and toward the houses and cattle
pens; pretty soon IL had flooded the
yard and was nearly 10 the door,
Small Robert took a survey Of the
situation. and then In small, fright
ened voice said: Daddy, don't blame
It all on me. God had ought to knowet
a small kid like me didn't need such |,
awful big rain"
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
CATARRH CANNOT BE CURED

with LOCAL APPLICATIONS, as they
cannot reach the seat of the disease.
Catarrh is a local disease, greatly in
fluenced by constitutional conditions,
and in order to cure it you must take
an internal remedy. Halls Catarrh
Medicine is taken internally and acts
through the blood on the mucous sur
faces of the system. Halls Catarrh
Medicine was prescribed by one of the
best physicians in this country for
years. 1t is composed of some of the
best tonics known, combined with
some of the best blood purifiers. The
perfect combination of the ingredi-
ents in Halls Catarrh Medicine IL
what produces such wonderful results
in catarrhal conditions. Send for
testimonials, free.
F. J. CHENEY & CO., Props,
Toledo, o.
All Druggists, Use.
Halls Family Pills for constipa-
tion.
(adv-april)
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
Use Of Cement,

Cement was first put on the market
In England. 1t was still being import
ID into this country in 1875. 1t was at
this time that the use Of Portland e.
ment in the United States came into
commercial prominence. When the
product was first placed On the mar.
ket in Competition with that which was
being imported from England and Ger.
many, a good price was demanded
However, production In excess of de
, mand soon resulted and 1T proved a BIZ
factor in the price cutting that fol
lowed.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
GERMANY FURNISHES THE
PROOF.

Every development since our en-
try into the war has justified and
proved the wisdom, the Imperative
necessity of Americans participation.
Eevry German success and every Ger
man failure have shown how neces-
sary to our own welfare and peace
how necessary to the safety and
peace of the world the defeat oil
Germany is. Every foot of ground
Germany has been forced to give up
every foot of land she has seized
have demonstrated the absolute ne
cessity of defeating that sinister, i'm
tolerable thing called Germanism.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
CARPENTERS AND PAINTERS
WANTED BY GOVERNMENT

Carpenters and painters are Ut.
gently needed for shore duty at
Great Lakes, Illinois, in the LIST, End
and 3rd grades, U. S. Naval Reserve
Force. No ship knowledge is neceS-
sary, but recruits in these grades
must be painters or carpenters by
trade.
This branch pays well. Age Fl to
35. Registered men must get re
lease from draft board.
Recruiting Offices are located at
Louisville, Lexington, Covington, Pa
ducah, Owensboro and Ashland.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16

, THE THREAT TO WORLD
SAFETY

. That appalling damnation- =
. intelligence with humanity =
q converting whole people into =
. predatory monster has de- =
q scended on the world. 4
. No human institution, fire or Z
q tabled beasts breaking up Z
. through the crust of the earth, Z
= could not more awfully threaten =
q us.
q Every energy of every civiliZ- Z
. ed nation be assembled for re- Z
q sistance.
q An unused dollar is an unus-
. ed weapon. Z
q How shall we face enslaved Z
q men, mutilated children and for Z
. lorn women, if in this hour Of Z
. supreme peril, we hold back =
q idle in our house a weapon that =
. might have helped to save-the =
. world. =
q q q q q . 80 . - q q = Z
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
Repartse.

Harold asked me point blank IL
that beautiful color of yours was nat
ural, and, of course, dear. I had to tell
the truth and say no."
"Of course, you did. He taxed me
with it, and I told him had borrowed
u Of you"
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16
LNe Walled Up.

All life is given rs rigidly walled up.
The walls are blessings, like the para
pet on mountain road that keeps the
traveller from topping over the face
of the cliff.-Alexander Maclaren, DID.
The Bourbon news. [volume] (Paris, Ky.) 1895-19??, 1918-04-16

1t is now said that the. German
censors doctored Count Czernin';
peace speech before~letting it out,
but that true copy reached Wash.
ington through Switzerland.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-11-14
TEUT0N CAPTIVES WIN STRIKE
Refuse to Work With Directors
at British Camp
By The iSSociated Press

London. Nov. li.-Accordiug to in
formation received here, a large number
Of German prisoners at camp in the
south of england went on "A strike re
Gently because of their refusal to work
alongside conscientious ohjectors to
British military service.
The Germans were engaged at road
making and to facilitate tho work
party of conscientious objcctors, also
prisoners. were detailed to assist.
Upon their arrival tho Germans
promptly. "downed tools" and q non
commissioned officer. delegated to speak
to the British officer In command of the
men, said:
we have struck These men arc
conscientious objectors and won't hsht
for their country. We won't work with
them Let them 90 and hight, INC
cowardS,"
The officer tried to reason with the
German spokesman, but he replied that
it was no use.
You can punish me and the others.
too, If YOU like" he said. "lndcef we II
accent any punishment rather than Work
with conscientious obJeCtorS.
Event ntually the conscientious objectors
we're withdrawn and the strike ended,
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-11-14
wounded 4, s.ysr.ly IN ..,,,s Action

wounded Severely IN Action
srBoBANT---lDrnest Y. Smith. High
CoRPoRAL--IIarvey c. Rice, PhiilIps-
Wounded slightly in Action
sERGBANT-George c. Prasser. Jersey
PRtvATE-rrancis s. MoAllstcr. West
field.
Died Of Disease
pRIvATE-Stacy $. Shocllcy. odessa.
MARYLAND
KILLED In Action
PRIvATE-Richard \. Powell, Salisbury.
Died From Wounds Received in Action
PRIVATE Harry H. Kelley. Phoenix.
Died of Disease
SERGEANT-Rubcrt u. Landcrs Hagcrs
PRIVATE-,'ha-IcsH II. Green Iona coming:
Norman Il. Price. Olncy
Wounded Severely in Action
PRIvATE--Lloyd l.. Rush. baltimore.
VIRGINIA
Killed in Action
sERGEANT-Ernest c. Lathew, Max
WAGONER--John H. Corum Abingdon.
PRIVATES--Humbletou T.. Andrews. Cen
tral Point; Thomas p. HARRISON ScottsrtIlc;
John u. jefferson. Sandy Level
Died From Wounds Received In Action
pRIVATE--Wiliam Bundle. Parkslcy.
Died of Disease
CoOE--John 6. MunCus. GaliN.
PRlNATE--ThUmas Bayard Long. llar-
rsonburg.
Wounded degree Cndetrrminedl
PRINATE--Flandcr l.. Tyrec, Cornwall.
Wounded slightly in Action
SERGEANT-Hsrold Proctor. Richmond