Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1918-09-06
FREEDOM FOR ULTIMA THULE
Unique Iceland Most Msjudged of Countries Heading for
Independence
Independence

truths, but it did awaken interest in the
signal and almost appalling scenic wonders
of Ultima Thule. A land scared with sinister
volcanic chasms, contrasting with pale green
pasture lands and little gardens productive
of a few hardy vegetables land where the
sheep and cattle vastly outnumber the human
inhabitants: land of backened.. burnt-out
mountains, weird old sisters of Hecla, that
still raging peak of fire and snow, a land of
thunderous waterfalls, of terrifying chasms
and Unexpectedly gracious lakes was
vealed to me on long and drizzly pony ride.
We journeyed from the capital with its chill
ingy prosaic dwellings, of alleged damp
proof" galvanized iron, it's cultural theatre,
university and Parliament house, to historic
Thingvalla.
There on an "isand' between awesome
earth assures the chiefs of the stormy old
republican days between the ninth and elev
enth centuries before the official merger of
the fortunes of Iceland in the league of Nor
way and Denmark made, called the
Althing, promulgated its laws and debated
the welfare of the State in much the same
tongue which the modern legislatures are to
employ in the dignified brownstone Parlia-
ment house in Reykjavik. OF living Ian
guages. Icelapdic is truly a veteran 1t was
contemporary with the extinct Anglo Saxon
to which it naturally bears certain affinties.
Thngvalla, with its rich historic and star
tling scenic values, proved arresting that
certain surprises concerning modern Icelandc
life were rather vaguely sensed Later it is
possible to reflect that l had passed the
night in a hotel" in which the sleeping ar
rangements were modelled berths in
ship; that delicious pancakes-somewhat
cross between the French and German va
riety-were a staple of the Iceandic cuisine :;
that in one of the least tropical of lands the
art of coffee making had reached an enviable
pinnacle of merit: that the fresh lake salmon
belongs to the list of Incompatible foods :;
that, though lcelandic ponies were almost as
large as horses, my huge cavalier guide,
Thorgrimur Gudmanson, was barely able to
keep his feet from touching the turf.
learned considerably more concerning
this cultivated descendant of unwearied Vik-
ings the next day, when he told me in his
fluent English that he knew four other Ian
guages, when his skill as a caravan pilot
gave me confidence to ford a swift-fowng
river just above the ridge from which 1t
tumbled into the deep pool below, and when
his ndefatigable good nature was displayed
by his vigil by the geyser, historic parent of
all spouting springs In the gray light of
! 80 in the morning--it was mid-July and the
Icelandic day was almost continuous-Gud-
manson summoned me to see that cleaning
spire of hot water.
We were miles beyond Thingvalla now,
miles even beyond Gufoss-a waterfall
which vies in splendor with the prodigies of
Niagara, the Zambesi and the Parana
| Neither the cheerless iron habitations of
metropolitan" Reykjavik nor the picturesque
matched cottages of the shepherds and cat
| tlemen We're near the sulphurous inferno of
| hot springs.
A capacious tent. however, served us ad-
| mirably and when the spectacular eruption
| had ceased the ingenious Gudmanson ap-
| peared with dish of smoking hot beef
| lcelandic magic was suggested by the engage
ing sight. The notion was substantially cor
| rect The accommodating geyser pool had
| heated to a degree Of savory warmth can
| OF potted meat originally emanating from a
| Chicago stockyard
The return to Reykjavik verified at the
| little museum and the university the tales
| about Iceandic books and Icelandic literary
| culture. The modern Althing house, facing
| a statue of the great sculptor, Thorvaldsen of
| Icelandc parentage. though born in Copen-
| hagen, made concrete the islands tireless
| spirit of independence.
| At that time extremely liberal home
| rule system was ,in force. But Iceland
| though peaceful and averse to armed strife
| was still unsatisfed. Universal suffrage for
| men and women alike has been a subsequent
| development. With the virtually assured
| consent of Denmark the distinguished honor
| Of nationality is now in store for Iceland
Her ships will display new flag
/ The kindly Gulf Stream which almost
encircles the islands coast line, has taken
of some of the chill in more ways than one
| The hearts of Vikngly freemen beat warmly
for liberty. Self-determizlation In .Ultirns
Thule" should be an augury Of happier dsye
IS eePqs Hsesss e''ess H~&a