davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1918-07-14
Fashion Paragraphs.

A NY sort of embeilished shoulder
"A scarf Is an acceptable accessory
to our dress these days Glass fringe
is one of the newer touches to add
charm to scarfs of colcred tulle and
net
Gray and black are a smart COM
bination, in cloth and satin. OF in silk
and serge. Some touch of color. of
course, is needed to emphasize this
combination and give il bit of dash.
Oriental embroidery. in silk or beads,
is a touch used sometimes by the dis
eliminating dressraker. -
Soft sport hats of ribbon in all the
becoming shades of blue. rose, green
and yellow are worn at beach and
country summer places
A very effective hat worn recently
by a well dressed young woman was
made of navy blue georgette crepe.
Over it was stretched network Of
deep purple fringe. The junctures Of
emphasized with a small, dull brown
wooden bead.
Lace is still much used in fine lin
gerie. and the finest of real flet is
used with charming effect. IT wears
try to buy with wisdom We think
bit about the durability of our lin.
gerie.
capes Of silk jersey are lined with silk
in vivid contrasting color. Cerise is
used. for instance. in a cape OF bis
cult color. orange yellow in one OF
gray and green lining in a cape Of
dark blue.
Where are our new blouses going to
open? Nobody knows, of course. but
just now there is tendency toward
acceptance Of the blouse that opens
at the side.
And although some of the new
blouses show collars. still most Of
them are of the collarless variety
with a rolling effect at the back.
American women have found this line
infinitely becoming, and they are in-
sisting on its continuance with per-
severance that is really commendable.
Short negliges, of course. are fea-
tured. but some of the very attractive
new rest robes of georgette and chit
fon and tulle show long trains. some.
long ends Of the fabric trailing at the
back.
Dark sleeves are shown in some Of
georgette drape. For the woman al
ways watching for some practical
touch In new clothes, these blousea
appeal nightly. For the dark sleeves,
be Il remembered. do not show soii
SO quickly as light ones. It is a rather
gloomy thought to remember that
they probably really do become soiled
almost as quickly as do white ones.
But II yod must wear blouse for q
considerable stretch of time-on a
long railroad journey. for instance,
or all day long doing Red Cross work
that may be a bit dusty-yon feel far
fresher at the end rf the - n in q
daraa- sleeYed rblbake IatNai IN fsA6ht
one. ,
Evening star., 1918-07-14

entation to Thibaud. when he was
told to wrap his body in the silks that
the great room. bow so many times
and retreat bowing. The Frenchman
was young. quite fascinating and
looked upon hts adventure with high
spirits. Therefore he wrapped his
But the cleverness of his French
hands failed, he said, In securing the
ends Of that soft silken drapery.. He
walked forward to Thibaud with dis
tinction and grace; he bowed before
Thibaud and felt something slip; at
each backward bow he felt more knots
untying; he became panic stricken.
and as he got to his sixth bow his en-
tire drapery slipped from him. and
hide the fact that he was au naturei!
1t Is not pleasant story to tell an
American woman and assure her at
the same time that these draperies of
Thibaud's queen are back in fashion.
But they are, and she had best be well
advised that her dressmaker secure
them in some wise and final way.
Now. another bit of perverseness in
sounds. is that France has brought in
three-Quarter coats as a new summer
fashion, at q time when three govern
ments have asked women to economixe
in wool
These suits are made of wool and
look as though all obedience had been
thrown to the winds. But this is not
so. The tailors claim that the suit is
made on such slim proportions that 1t
is kept within the four and a half
yards allowed by the government. and
they also say that the top of the skirt
is of taifeta or satin. which is covered
at the back and sides by the long coat
and by that ubiquitous apron waist
coat which spreads itself between the
fronts Of the coat and reaches half
way between waist and knees.
France IN making these coats In p
broad, mosaic design. Blocks of black
and white are placed against each
other, and the collars and cuffs are OF
American seaizkin.
The long waistcoat. which in truth
is sometimes made exactly like Ap
apron, Is OF linen, pongee, tinsebed
satin and tinted muslin. Paris Ii quite
delighted over these apron waistcoate
made of pale pink. mauve. yellow.
Joffre blue and violet organdy OF
down the front with tiny white buts
tons. but usually they do not present
any break in the front line They aro
more becoming and novel this way.
and more being used by women wise
enough to save all possible steps for
themselves or their servants. Really
no housekeeping arrangement is COM
plete without such a conveyance
which makes Of setting and clearing
the table a task OF but TWO or three
trips as compared with a half a dozen
times that number.
Evening star., 1918-07-14

Soft sport hats of ribbon in all the
becoming shades OF blue, rose. green
and yellow are worn at beach and
country summer places.
Evening star., 1918-07-14

Gray and black are a smart COM
bination. in cloth and satin. OF in silk
and serge. Some touch of color. of
course, is needed to emphasize this
combination and give il 4 bit of dash.
Oriental embroidery. in silk or beads,
is a touch used sometimes by the dis
eliminating dressraker.
Evening star., 1918-07-14

cording TO the overhead charges, as
the dressmakers and shops.
Women who have always been tor
pid about clothes, and rarely thought
out a single trick for themselves,
come horne from a days round with
vising something in their own homes.
A trick here, trick there, tried out
in the tentative manner of women
who are afraid of their material and
not sure of their skill not only be-
comes diverting game, but often re-
suits in good fashion.
Soon these women will be trained
into the same kind of power that has
governed France for 800 years. The
French dressmakers do not govern
women who wear the clothes. They
are artists: they are skilled in the
science of clothes, and it is their in
sistence upon changes and peculiari-
ties, their experimentation in new
things, which guides the designing
Marx my words. We are going to
get that class over here through the
war. A whole new scheme of things
in apparel has broken loose among
and more exacting about variety.
when they learn how to cater to their
own types, and when they suggest to
designers who have heretofore been
inaccessible ana naughty, tnen we will
create our own fashions, and not until
then.
There will always be a large seq
ment of women who will take the de-
signer's word on fashions, their suit
ability and their popularity, but this
grows smaller each month, under the
pressure Of a certain set Of circum-
stances that are overturning the usual
schedule Of life.
You can see for yourself how the
stimulation will extend to all the
quarters Of trade. II women say to a
high3priqed dreseEaAes that they
Evening star., 1918-07-14

A NY sort of embeilished shoulder
"a scarf Is an acceptable accessory
to our dress these days Glass fringe
is one Of the newer touches to add
charm to scarfs of colored tolle and
net
Evening star., 1918-07-14

A very effective hat worn recently
made of navy blue georgette crepe.
Over it was stretched a network of
deep purple fringe. The junctures of
the different strands of fringe were
emphasized with small, dull brown
wooden bead
Evening star., 1918-07-14

Some OF the new an-enveloping
capes of silk jersey are lined with silk
in vivid contrasting color. Cerise is
used, for instance, in a cape of bis
cult color. orange yellow in one of
gray and a green lining in cape Of
dark blue.
Evening star., 1918-07-14

Where are our new blonses going to
open? Nobody knows, of course. but
just now there is a tendency toward
acceptance Of the blouse that opens
at the side.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
l!eved to have fallen during an aeria
battle on Saturday

l!eved to have fallen during an aerial
battle on Saturday.
Stockholm. Monday, Oct 7-(By the
Associated Press). -Bulgaria's with
drawal from the war and consequent
peace developments have played havoc
with Scandinavian shipping stocks. Nor
wegian papers estimate that 100 war
millionaires have been wiped out BY he
break in Norwegian shipping securities
alone
Kansas City, Mo, Oct. s-No more
music written by living or dead German
composers will be performed by mem
bers OF the Kansas City Musical Club
for the duration of the war, il is an
nounced
Paris. Sept. l.-(Correspondence Of the
Associated Press Admiral Henry r..
Wilson. commander-in-chief OF the
American naval forces in French wa
ters. refused the Cross Of the Legion OF
Honor when president Poincare and
Minister Of Msrine Georges Ieyaucs
visited him at 3rest on Aug Is and 1s.
The French press was invited not 10 re-
cord the incident
Camp Grant. III. Oct. s-Colonel c.
3. Hagadorn, acting commander OF
Camp Grant. was found dead in his
quarters today
Richmond, Ky, Oct. s-James 3.
MacCreary. twice governor OF Ken
lucky, six years United States sena-
tor and for several terms a member OF
the House OF Representatives. died at
his home here today after brief III
ness.
Amsterdam, Monday, Oct Flight
Lieutenant Fritz Rumey Of the German
army. who claimed a air victories, has
been killed, according to the Lokal An
zeiger of Berlin.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
Three-Quarters Of Loan
Yet to Be Subscribed

Washington, Oct Shine working
days Of the fourth Liberty Loan
campaign are now gone, ten remain
and only $500. 900 900 of the six bill
lion total said to be raised. The in
creased sales as shown by today's
report over yesterday amounts to
1858 100000. says the treasury review
Of the campaign, and while this in
an increase over former days it still
is far from satisfactory. Only slight
~ more than one fourth OF the to-
tai amount of the loan, six billion
dollars, has been subscribed. OBJ
viously the very hardest kind Of
work will be required to float the
loan. The order Of the leading ris-
tricts in unchango 1-St. Louis. Min
neapolis. Boston. Then come Chi
cago, San Francisco. Dallas, Rich
monl, Cleveland. New York. Phila-
delphia. Atlanta and Kansas City N
the order named.
Indiana is still leading in the per-
centage quota race in the st. Louis
district. Arkansas Is second. Ken
lucky third. Mississippi fourth, H.
linois fifth and Missouri sixth. The
increase of over sl00c00.0oo in Chi
Cages report today was an encour-
aging feature to officials. Nineteen
hundred and eight community hon.
or flags already have been awarded
in that district.
Reports of subscriptions by rail-
road employees indicate purchases Of
$14, 971, $50.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
Save to Buy
and
Buy to Keep

he was slightly injured but badly
shaken.
Mrs. r. +. Shorey has returned
from short stay in Winslow with
her daughter Mrs G. II. Britton.
Edward Webster Is called to Show
hogan today for examination for mill
tary service.
The following real estate transfer
was recently recorded at the office
OF the Somerset registry OF deeds:
Daniel -. Donnelly to John II.
Smith, vacant lot OF land on High
street near the Files estate.
DIR. w. s. Miller and son Leland
are enjoying "A hunting trip up in
the Maine woods.
RIDGE ROAD-Miss Ella Wilcox
passed the week lend with her pa
rents. Mr.. and Mrs. l.. l.. Wilcox.
Misses Maud and leila Chapman
were supper guests Monday at Glen
craigen.
Mrs. Almon Goodwin has returned
from South Paris, where she has
been visiting her daughter, Mrs. NJ.
G. Joy.
Mr.. and Mrs. Stanley. who have
been visiting Mr.. Wiicox's parents.
MIR. and Mrs. l.. l.. Wilcox. for a
few days. have returned to their
home In Waterville.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
PIITSEIELD

Mrs. Vera Richardson. who has been
visiting her brother. Burke l.. Fitzger.
aid, for several days. left Tuesday TO:
her home in Garlach. New.
c. II. Cargill went to Liberty Tues.
day for a short business trip.
Nine Pittsheld men have been notified
to appear before the Somerset count,
examining board at Skowhegan Wednes-
day. They are Willis Field. Carol C.
Emery. Earl l.. Carr, Ernest F. Abbott
Guy Woodbury., Lester c. Lurvey
Charles l.. Turnbull. Clyde McLellan
and Joseph Fortier.
Mr.. and Mrs. F. G. Parsons went "a
Dover Tuesday to attend the funeral OF
Mr.. Parsons brother. w. l.. Parsons
whose death occurred Sunday after :
brief Illness. Mr.. Parsons had many
friends here. having been a frequent
visitor to this town.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
Situation Easier at Portland

Portland, Oct. SAN unmistakat..
ebb In the tide of influenza is assure
by reports of physicians receiys
in the board of health Office du-ini
the forenoon and early afternoOl
While fluctuations have not bes:I
made as there is a continual rush ii
the office. telephone and other calls
II bids fair to be day of relief. sui
shine and bright prospects when III
figures are added.
Vaccine incubation will be morl
general after Miss Ethel NJ. Shermai
bacteriologist, returns from Bost.I
with data and materials so tina, i
supply may be provided in the CitI
laboratory, first for physicians All
nurses and then for all who wish d
be made immune. She went 10 BosI
ton today and will learn there al
there is to be learned relative d
this effective preventative. Port
land will be able to take care Of N
self. being fortunate at this time n
the possession Of a laboratory ani
chemist. both well equipped for th
emergency.
While more than 1000 cases hav
been reported IN the past five q
six weeks since the disease frs
made known its presence here, NOR
than half are estimated to be full!
recovered and a large majority d
the remainder convalescent. II VA
found that SO percent recover an.
there is seldom fatal termination M
less complications develop. such .
pneumonia, brain fever. heart CON
plications and the like.
Assignment of nurses includlfl
the Sisters Of Mercy. 10 making SAL
isfactory progress and physicians
are receiving hearty support from o.
organizations able TO assist in hi
department.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
TELEGRAPH BRIEFS

Paris, Oct. s.-Dispatches received
here today from Luxembourg an
nounce the engagement Of Princess
Charlotte, eldest sister OF the reign
ing grand duchess Of Luxemburg, to
Prince Felix Of Bourbon de Parma.
brother Of the Austrian empress
Melbourne, Oct 8.-The Australian
government has no intention At pres
ent Of introducing prohibition as 4
war measure. This announcement
was made by w. A. Watt. treasurer
Of Australia. in reply to inquiries
from members Of the House of Rep
resentatives.
Frankfort, KY. Oct. 8.-Woman
suffrage gained a potential recruit
here today. when Governor A. O..
Stanley, Democratic candidate for
United States senator, announced
that if elected in November he would
vote for it and for any other war
measure advanced by President Will
son.
X. Washington. Oct s.-War risk and
marine insurance will be assumed by
the government on all shipments by
coastwise steamship lines operated
by the railroad administration. the
Old Dominion. Clyde Ocean. Mer-
chants & Miners, Southern. Mallory
and Morgan lines. Many shipments
Of cotton recently have been divert
ed to ocean routes to relieve rail
lines. and the assumption Of marine
risks by the government was prompt
ed mainly by this condition.
Washington. Oct. s.-PIain indica-
ton was given today by the national
War Labor Board that in cases where
organized labor opposes advanced
street car fares recommended by the
board in connection with increased
wages awarded to employees Of pub
Tic utility companies the entire
award. including the wage advances.
will be suspended.
Paris, Oct. s-Lieut. Roland D. Gar
ros. who was reported missing yester-
day In advices from the front. 10 b.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
General Improvement
Continued from Page One)

crops follow: Oats, 1855. 900 busf'
els: Barley. 236, sos. 900; Buckwheat
1s.473,000; White Potatoes. Sal,3's'
600: Sweet Potatoes, S5,473.0co; Flal
100000; Rice. A.91s.000; Tobacco
t,615, 362. 900 pounds; Pears. 10lH,@
bushels: Apples. 1876. 3SS9.0t0 bushes
Sugar Beets, Sass, 900 tons; Kafn
1850. 900 bushels: Beans, l7,so2w
bushels.
Conditions Of the various crops o.
Oct. I was announced as follows
Corn, 6S.e per cent Of norma
buckwheat. 1873: white potatoes, 7aF
sweet potatoes, TIA; max. 7O.s; rles
S5.4: tobacco, S7.4; subar beets' ."
kafirs, 400.
Condition Of corn Oct. and th'
forecast of production (thousanD
omitted, by principal states follow
Ohio. rs per cent. 135.423 bushes
Indiana, IS and 1924: Illinois, "
and 349,44s: Iowa. IS and 4o2,lHi.
Missouri, 81 and 1921: Nebraska, y
and 147,l7o; Kansas, 20 and +s,sN
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
FAIRFIELD

Drmande i.awry passed the day yes
tsr.iay at saowhesan with friends.
Miss HATH. Brown. who has been
passing n few DAYS with friends In Lew
is,on. has returned to her home.
Neii Brophy. who has been employed
NJ the Portland Packing Co. has com
pIeted his duties
Mrs Albert Lint has returned to her
home In Etna after passing a few days
with her mother Mrs. Alice Ryer.
The Win one class OF the Methods,
church viii meet this evening with Miss
Helen Rose at her home on Main stree:
The Past Noble Grands meeting which
Was to have been held at waterville this
evening has been postponed indefinitely.
Mrs Augustus varney will entertain
the Methodist Guild at a thimble tea
this afternoon
Mrs Jennie Clark who has been stay
ing q, belgrade Lakes. 10 passing "a few
days at her home on Kelley street.
Mrs. c. A. Lane Of Brooks II the guest
OF Mrs. W. u. Hall on High street.
Maynard Mclaughlin In confined 10 his
home by illness.
James Flewelling left yesterday with
crew OF men for Hinekley. where they
are working for Albert Jewell q Son.
Mr.. and Mrs. Horace Marcoux OF the
Ridge road are the proud parents Of a
son. horn sunday.
Mrs. Ella Parker is the guest Of
Mrs. Lester Nye ut her home. Bunker
avenue.
Mrs. n. J. MadiEan has returned to
her homo after visiting friends and
relatives In Worcester and New York.
Fred Martin Of Benton. who was
called to Aver. Mas. by the illness
of his brother. Roy Martin, has re-
turned to his homo and reports that
his brother Is gaining.
Mr.. Kelly OF benton met with
slight accident Sunday when no fell
and struck his head. cutting a small
pssh In IT, Investigation proved that
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
More Cheering al Bath

Bath. Oct. S-The cheering condi-
tons regarding the epidemic of in
fuenza which gave the workers new
courage~AIonday are prevailing today
and while everyone il hopeful that
the worst is over there Is great dam
ser still and all have the fear that
there may be a setback but are hop
ing for the best.
Many new cases are reported daily,
but not as many by a third as were
reported the latter part of last week,
when the number some days exceeded
100. The total of cases today is about
the same as yesterday, about 1900, ac-
cording to the estimates, as it is felt
that the number taken down has Just
about balanced those who have been
discharged as over the danger point
In the disease.
In many cities where closing rules
have been ia effect the mistake has
been made of reopening public places
too early and q recurrence of the epi.
demic has taken place which reached
greater proportions even than the
original outbreak. In Boston the
closing rule will be effective for at
least two weeks more and many other
cities are taking the same action.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
Influenza Vaccine
Continued from Page Ons)

be left to the judgment Of the individual
physician
DR.. William r. Draper of the federal
public health =ervice, who Is here lead
ing the fight against influenza, con-
CURED in DR.. Kelley's statements.
Although the epidemic is not con-
sidered under control generally in
Massachusetts, good progress has
been made in the communities at
fected. They reported today a d.
minuation in the number Of new
cases and in deaths. But that in
fuenza is spreading throughout the
state was apparent from the state
health departments reports today,
showing 128 communities. including
Boston,, with 74l3 new cases in the
past "a hours and 303 deaths.
The building of open Al. shacks for
the treatment of patients was urged
by Henry B. Endicott. chairman Of
the state emergency health commit
tee. In statement tonight Mr..
Endicott advised city and town off,
Gals to inspect the buildings now in
use at Lawrence, Ipswich and Med
field. A scarcity Of nurses still ex-
lists and the situation Is SO serious
that Mr.. Endicott tonight issued
another plea for this much needed
assistance.
We are trying vainly" he said
TO supply an average Of one nurse
to Is patients and even on this lou
basis we are over 300 nurses short
Cardinal O'Connell, who has been
working day and night for the past
week to aid the civic authorities In
the fight to stamp out the epidemic
was busy again today.
Half Of the priests in the arch-
diocese are i'll with influenza ana In
number Of parishes every priest
has been stricken. Demands on ths
priests for attendance on the sick
have been great
A nafhetic incident o. the epjdem-
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
To Determine Cause
of Fire in Navy Yard
at Boston Monday Night

Boston, Oct s-Ohcials OF the First
Naval District began an investigation
today to determine the cause Of the fra
which last nigh. destroyed large
amount Of hemp stored at the Boston
navy yard The loss win total several
thousand dollars. The FIRE was extin-
guished after hard fight by the yard
are-aghsing force assisted by sailors
from naval craft anchored nearby and
help summoned from the Boston Ere de-
partment
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
LITCHFIELD

Mr.. and Mrs. L. T. Gilman. who
were called here by the death Of the
formers brother. returned TO their
home in Lowell. Mass. Tuesday
morning.
Mrs. F. A. Spencer of Everett.
Mass. is visiting her parents. MIR.
and Mrs. A. s. Trott.
Schools were all closed in town
Monday owing to the prevailing sick :
ness
Grin True. who had an i'll turn n
short time ago. is improving 80 that
he is out around
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
HUGE INCREASE
IN THE ARTILLERY
PROGRAM OF u.

Washington, Oct 8.-Huge increas
es In the artillery program have bes'
decided on by the ordnance depar'
ment. which today asked the hous
appropriations committee to ao'
$1,100.000.000 to it's estimates OF ~,
6S7.000.00O to carry out its part y
the enlarged army program. Tn'
war department has decided to pro-
vide more big guns for each OF ID
20 divisions that America expects "
have in France next year.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
PITTSTON

Tho Liberty Loan committee of
Pittston reports total subscriptions Of
about SIS, 900 which Ii nearly double
their quota. The committee men,
bers are stili hustling and report that
all their citizens are much interested.
They expect the final total will be
very gratifying to the residents OF
Pittston.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1918-10-09
40 PER CENT
Continued from, Page One)

800 oC0 Of its quota Of s.. 1Ss.0c0: Low
ell had So per cent. Of its quota and
New Bedford 46 per cent
In Maine, Portland was represent
Cd by nearly IS per cent. OF it's ouo-
ia, Lewiston As per cent: Bangor IS
per cent: and in New Hampshire.
Bennington was los per cent. over
It's quota: Concord had IS per cent.
Of its quota, and Manchester 20 per
cent.
Cities and towns reporting over
subscriptions totalied 242. of which
81 were in Vermont. rs in Maine. 81
in New Hampshire. is in Massachu-
sets. IS In Connecticut and che in
Rhode Island.