Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-04-21

r.
IN passine interest to the chang
N\ ing lines of the spring skirt 1t
Is y does not change from day to
day, but from morning to afternoon 10
evening.
One can sum up the whole situation
by saying that a woman begins straieh'
In the morning and is on the bias IN the
=eyening. When she appears on the street
sat 10 am. her skirt must be as straight
rs the path of life laid out for us by
.the Bible. There must not be devla-
.tion in the way of a flare, ripple or
.ruffie. The skirt may go In a bit at the
ankles, but that is not required by FASH
lion. 1t must look like straight Dag
.dropped from the waist line.
In the afternoon the skirt begins TO
.wayer from the straight line. 1t takes
unto itself a tunic, which Is attacheo
TO II or begins at the waist line This
.tunic has a ripple and a flare. but Its
.s,enderness is achieved through Its
.f1exibility. The material is soft. and
therefore the skirt swings to and from
:ybe figure with a good measure OF
grace.
In the evening the skirt drops all pre-
tensions to straight lines. 1t becomes
more slender than ever through widths
IF material wrapped around the figure,
after the manner of the ancient
-Esyptians. The cloth may go 10 me
above the knees in its wrapping, ann
.leaye a narrow pleated ruffie that rests
over the ankles and heels or the wrap
spfnc NAV begin below the bust ana
continue to the ankle with loose ehd,
.or two or three of them. left floating on
.the floor to serve az trains.
There is no doubt that a struggle for
supremacy will come between the two
Fashions. The wrapped skirt Will not
sbe content to be limited to evening
usage: 1t wants to appear on the street
An a modified measure in cloth costumes.
Already one hears it said that the
.ooffee-bag skirt will not last through
the summer. 1t is not an admirable
model for thin materials, such as pom
zee extra fine serge and the new
.Worsted that is expensive put ultra.
sYashionable-a kind of worsted tnat
swas invented in France and mas .he APP
spearance of coarse-meshed thin Angora.
The pleated skirt is substitute lot
Yhis coffee-bag skirt, but unless II IS
done by machinery it Is not acceptance
and women are not altogether eHtHuSi
-astfc over the continuance or stralsht
spIeating They are willing to accept
.ft as an underskirt, fashioned after the
.Aiexandrian manner. to serve as mere
Foundation to a tunic Of brilliant lines.
.but they do not want to use II Tor
~whole skirt. Therefore. the chances are
that the wrapped or draped skirt will
have its own way and creep into the
clothes that are worn at 10 O'CLOCK IN
the morning, as well as dominating
hat
There is more distinction about the
wrapped skirt than the straight one,
but it is quite possible to make happy
combination of the two
AS we have habit Of going to the
museums and back to the classics for
sour clothes these days. it might be we'll
for a student of fashions to observe
with care the wrappings and pleatings
of the gowns worn by the Egyptians
and all the historic eastern country,
which has been again placed on the map
Through the medium OF war flags and
marching regiments
There is something quite difficult
about the convolutions of the ancient
ekirts. and. it is not possible for an
amateur to copy them. They need the
hand of an artist and skilled draper
70 manage the wrappings and pleatings
that outline, without combining, the
body.
;. But as it is a task for good dress
makers. and as a successful achieve
ment commands a good price, there is
= certainty that we shall have many
gowns that are swirled around the fig
ure after a manner that the historians
of dress find spreading through all the
primitive countries.
1t is difficult to put the finger on any
race in the southern latitudes which
does not wear. or has not worn. cloth