Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-09-22

animals would frighten the opposing
side. Such is the history of the grena-
der caps worn by the British army,
and such Is probably the inspiration
of the new warlike clothes invented
in these times of war.
These are worn in Paris, or rather
they were shown at the Paris open
ings. They have arrived in this coun-
try, and their acceptance is debatable
There are women who will wear
anything now. regardless of Its effect
OH their appearance, and these women
may make the new fabrics fashion,
able. At first glance they are rather
terrifying. One has slight creeping
of sympathy for the opposing side"
to tho legions Of Caesar. Even stout
hearted warrior would hate to face a
great rush of animal skins moving to-
ward him with rapidity.
That Is the situation that must be
faced by every stout-hearted man this
winter, if these shaggy materials take
first place in fashion. To tho observer
they are the leading phase of the sea-
sons output. They are purely French
invention, and even IL they are not
accepted in their entirety of shagEi-
ness they will undoubtedly pave the
way for an immense output Of silky
materials with rough surfaces.
The first of these materials was
called "Lionceau." and was invented
late, last winter, think Thu and i'd then \
sketches Of It in this country. but lit
tie visual evidence of 1t. 1t was a fab
rio invented to initiate the long. silky
hide Of a lion. It came into being
both fabrics owed their source, 1t is
Ssaid to certain operas in Paris and
the sudden debauch of the European
|lworld into the savagery Of fighting.
lily. into the sources of fashions and
fabrics insist that the entire output
LOT these animalistic materials is due
Ito the Renaissance OF monkey fur.
That, however, would not explain the
new French gowns that are arriving
In this country, and which have hunt
Ing scenes, magnifcently ornamental,
Pm a dark background. Jenny uses
fhis material for panels and Tor large
pieces OF evening frocks.
Then there are other fabrics which
blow birds and birds plumage as the
ornamental design. but these are OF
tninor brilliancy as against the animal
FED and burnt orange hair of monkeys
Ind orang- outangs, but also the names
pr animals such az never existed on
land or sea; these are made from five
Ind six inch strands of curled silky
oss interviewer with metal.
The bird fabrics are called "Oisella,"
nd the burnt-orange hides arc called
.YOrang-outang." In other gowns. es-
ecally one from n%lloz : there is used :!
Which means. 1.-The golden fleece"
Still another material--and the love-
est Of all because 1t Is the most prac-
eal TOR american usage-is the imi-
hbric. alongside the shaggy ones.
PENS to be cultured and modern.
After roaming through weaves that
box as though they represented
imeyal life the woven coat Of ma!l
Yhat really happened In the brain OF
10 French weavers to produce these
ew fabrics as tho leading sensation
what is hoped to be the last year
Zero reporter Of clothes. No doubt,
cir imaginative faculties were
Hired to the depths by the brutal
imitiveness of this war on French
il; and they merely hardened back
the early stages OF man as fighter
his existence and turned the re-
1t into a most expensive and orna-
tental fabric.
4
Historians remember that the earli-
indications we have of human life
tere on the River Somme, exactly
1ere the battles have ragged for four
Jars; and it is believed by the his
Fians that those queer, shaggy half
Pm, covered with skins, would have
ZEN startled at the appearance of the
d-looking animals that we call al
fighters today-covered with
Sted mud, helmeted against shrapnel,
PES covered against gas and bodies
tapped with all tho hideous imple-
knts of warfare. Between the two it
Very probable that the early men of
P Somme would be comelier!
am dwelling in detail on all these
| prizes of the hour because / believe
| the great masses of women over
continent are going into the shops
Is week to buy materials for their
" Clothes Every woman does not
Ne an expensive dressmaker or
Pat department store to furnish her.
ttunles for the season. Such tricks
r has brought about an immense
lount Of home dressmaking, for all
seamstresses in the world cannot
into munition factories and earn
BE wages. Some Of them must stick
" harvest
liz to the fabrics, therefore, that