New-York tribune., 1918-10-20

T>HREE tones-aside from the mill
i tary-are dominant this year on
the palette Of the cloth tinter and.
therefore, in the shops-blue, black
and dull brown Save for a fash OF
bright silks, IA bit Of velvet that has
fallen into gayer dye pot and all oc-
casional handtinted fabric, rich with
the vegetable colorings whose secret
was learned in the days before the
Germans began to excel in synthetic
dyes, the world OF dress has gone serc.
This would seem a poor sort Of
thanks to the American chemist who
has been stirring his dye pots overtime
since 1914 to give US rainbow colors
like those OF before the war, we're it
not that something deeper than mere
lack OF desire for gay plumage has
caused shadow to fall on the spec
trum of our fall apparel.
Mood plays part in the drabness
and the necessity and, above ALL,
the demands of service.
The American dye maker has been
more successful in producing dark
color dyes than light ones. Never, for
example, has it been possible to buy,
since the stock on hand was sold
shortly after the war; pair of those
brilliant scarlet hose which could
once be found on the counters of every
Woolworth's S in the country at the
modest price of 10 cents. And scarce
a dealer to-day is willing to guarantee
the wearing qualities Of the gayer col
ored fabrics. This is the practical
business reason for the dun tones.
Nor is a country at war in any mood
for iridescent garbing. In Paris, it
is related, a manikin, cerise-clad was
hooted off the streets because she was
out of the setting in q public which had
its mind on other things than the races
felt instinctively that the seriousness
Of the present times demands sober
tinting, and we are satisfied to wear
our colors in the banners on the ave-
nue., the service flags in our homes and
the red feather of the Liberty Loan.
No woman will consider to-day,
either, a costume which will not stand
wear which rules out at once all col
ors from mustard green to salmon
pink. There is the forecast Of wool
shortage, which may or may not be
realized but which makes US careful
to buy Z. garment which is capable Of
at least two seasons wear. Even it it
were not necessary to provide against
q possible famine, the question of ac-
tual service would give dark clothes
the lead in popularity. If woman
is not in uniform to-day she is apt to
be engaged in work directly or indi-
rectly connected with the war That
means she cannot be dabber. She
must work consistently and therefore
must be garbed serviceably.
All these sober considerations have
served to temper the dazzle, the splen-
der Of our tall fashion displays, and
the designer Of fabric and tho colorist
of cloth stand acquitted of The sus-
picion that mere whinsy dictates the
"popular' shade of the season.
T T MIGHT have been supposed that
4 when women went warning the all
important question Of clothes would
DC rclegatcd to a secondary place But
in Washington, wherever women OF
the War Department congregatc to
chatter, they say the topic Of every
day is-to be or not to be uniformed.
It seems that army officials have
left that nice point to be decided by
the young women themselves. The
navy, on the other hand, speaking
through Secretary Daniels, requires
that its yeowomen wear u uniform
while on duty and exercise their r.
dividual preference after working
| hours.
Why army women hesitate over a.
uniform is something to puzzle over.
for it IS & recognized fact that the
volunteer organization worker starts
i thinking Of her "regimentalsn before
she has taken up her duties, and the
problem of the tailored uniform is we'll
up i'll the interest scale.
Approaching the fact that all wome n
love unfornl-bc it on themselves or
| others-Franklin Simon e. Co. have tit
! ted out d complete uniform shop for
women. Top coats, overcoats, overseas
capes, overseas hats, puttees, boots,
wrist watches, these are only few
of the things which are laid out to
tempt the feminine war worker. This
shop is entirely product of the war.
and probably will be only as lonylived
as the war.
But though it may be snuffed out at
any moment, it continues the busies.
centre in busy store, having DETECTED
! trade from other departments. The
yeowomen are among the best custom
ers of the uniform shop. Besides them
the Motor Messengers, the Women's
Motor Corps, the Motor Corps of the
National League for Women's Service
and the American Red Cross find every
thing for their needs there.
THERE is story told Of men j.,