New-York tribune., 1918-11-24

4 MEXICAN modiSteS nave never
~ hesitatcd TO take leaf from
the notebook Of Partisan cou
turleres, but the American fabric
manufacturer was slower IN learning
this trick, Probably for the i'rst time
In this country the H. r, Mallinson Silk
Company took over French idea when
they gave q fashion display yesterday
for the purpose Of showing their silks
to best advantage.
In France the designer usually fash
IONS the fabric to meet the style idea,
and then develops 1t as side line,
sometimes with marvellous success, AS
in the case of Georgette crepes, which
took their name from the French house
Georgette. Yesterday the style was
made to fit the fabric and to show the
adaptability of the various silks to a
host of garment needs.
Primarily display which WAS in
tended tc enhance the product Of the
Mallinson looms, the fashion show will
serve, however, as an important event
=,
Tuesday and Wednesday there will be
more private showings of the silk
gowns, so that every person in the
trade may be reached.
The designs for the display were
made by Harry Collins. Though it is
a bit uncomfortable for the layman. to
think of spring clothes when the first
wintry blasts are blowing out of doors,
we may see ourselves as we will be
next spring at this display.
Ii the designs are true. skirts will
be as narrow as ever. the silhouette
very straight and slim, and the only re-
be found in the Russian blouse like
waists which were worn yesterday
with every costume. The same long
lines are used in the designing of the
dresses
AS for bright colors. they seem to
have faded completely for the present
No attempt was made to depict "vic-
tory" or other patriotic sensations, the
most part.
N7OMEN who in war times sought
w out small ways of self denial so
that they could be entitled to a proper
heroic feeling, like the small boy who
felt good inside" have had a rude
shock from the shoe dealers of late.
Having made up their minds to wear
tipless shoes and only tipless shoes, be-
cause an unbelievable amount of
leather was conserved thereby, they
are now informed that such shoe is
the very best kind to make the foot
look small.
And, ungratefully enough the self
denial feeling is being charged up by
some to personal vanity, an accusation
which cannot easily be refuted, as long
the making Of shoes.
When that is over women will have
to rush in self-defence for the shoe
with the biggest tip possible.
WAR makes heroes overnight, but
w itsalso makes millionaires in the
same brief period of time, and there
fore at the conclusion of peace we will
lind among us new and larger than
usual crops of "nouveau-riche." The
first persons to appreciate the appear
/ ance of this new class in society are
the merchants, as they are also the
first to face the task of shaping the
tastes of men and women to whom
shops of the better class have always
been closed.
The transition must be gradual one
IN most cases, so one New York de-
! partment store has hit upon scheme
of much cleverness 1t has set aside
an entire floor for the sale of mer-
chandise which would appeal to the
newly rich customers merchandise
which is expensive enough to fit the
desire to spend and yet not too quietly
tasteful to be scorned. This store has
provoked the phrase "top-hoor mer-
chandising," which is likely to remain.
According to New York merchant