The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-10-13
Paris War Fashions Are Dignified and Simple
With Different Fabrics Used in One Garment

The sash ends OF the Georgette fall
almost to the bottom OF the black
satin skirt. In this connection let
me make mention Of the fact that the
Paris models show a tendency to con-
trast skirt and bodice both as to ma
terial and color.
Alliance OF Materials.
One Of the modes Of the moment Is
the curious assembling Of different
fabrics for the fashioning Of one
garment. Thus a black satin after
noon frock has been richly trimmed
with soft white Angora cloth, and
this in turn has been thickly beaded
with Jet. The frock shows a crisis
cross of the beaded white Angora
forming q trimming for the narrow
skirt, a curious belt arrangement, not
straight around the waist, but higher
at one side and slanting diagonally
across the front of the skirt. The
sleeves are long and tight, ornamented
at the waist with the white fuzzy
stun and the beads, and the neck Is
high and finished with one of the
new very high collars made Of the
white material, one end being left
long like a scarf, thrown over one
shoulder and finished with long jet
tassel.
The most decided changes I find in
any Of the newest creations are pre-
scented in the collar arrangements.
Very high collars with throw ends APP
pear on many frocks. Often they are
knitted on the neck of the dress, a
he<a ell ne hrfo nd
beautiful color being used.
This sort OF collar appears on a blue
coat dress. The collar is of Belgian
blue, knitted round and round, 50 that
sort of small yoke is formed at the
top OF the waist, narrowing into high
collar which ends in a throw at one
side. Touches of the blue threads
have been knitted at intervals across
the front of the bodice to brighten II,
and a long sash is knitted at one side
Of the skirt.
Gold, silver and Jet.
Ticolette appears with n gold or
silver thread woven with the silk. 1t
is made up into handsome frocks
thickly studded with jet. There is no
end TO the ways beads. and especially
those Of Jet. have bern exploited BY the
French makers. Black satin is seen
crisscrossed from hem 10 hips with
strings Of small jet beads. Serge is
beaded in unexpected designs and
places. For instance, a dark blue serge
is unrelieved by any trimming what
ever except that on one hip and UNI
der the arm there is an Indian design
be AIDED on the serge itself, and there
Is a sash, very narrow, of bright CO.
ored beads.
Fringe also Is displayed, though not
SO lavishly as it has been seen earlier
in this season. An unusual treat
ment Is shown on a black crepe me-
teor which has two rows of very deep
fringe knotted into tho crepe itself. SO
that the threads whereby the fringe Is
tied form an apronlike trimming
across the front and down the back.
The panel has never been more evil
dent. 1t appears in thousand effects.
In a gray satin 1t is developed in
looped panel at the back. made Of the
satin and falling In front in an apron
panel made Of fine net banded across
the bottom with a gray fur half a
foot deep. OF course. the foundation
skirt of this particular dress is as
narrow as ii can be, and because one
must be able to take steps while
wearing II the two pieces at the bot
tom of the skirt are crossed in the
back, separating as one moves. Paris
sends over number of these cross
draped skirts, designed evidently to
give the extremely narrow lines on
which approval has been placed.
Evening FrOcks.
AS TO gowns for such evening oc-
casions OF festivity as may come later
I observe no low cut necks and
endless, billowlng draperies. Indeed,
the foundations, very tight and of the
princess lines OF long ago. appear
Than Mrs Of Ohio had