davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
Patriotism on the Farm
r. Logan. in Leslie's.

Thomas II. Logan, III i1SSiiS .
The census OF live stock for the year
1917 shows that in a single year horses
have increased in numbers, 353,-oop;
mules. 101, 900; mich cows, $4,000;
other cattle, 1857 900; sheep. 1,2S4,o0e;
and swine 3,S71 900. The tremendous
demand for this live stock is indl-
Gated by an accompanying increase IN
value per head. The cost of horses mas
Increased s1.39. Mules. due to their use
hv all the armies, now cost $10.59
head more than in 1916. The value or
niIch cows has increased 1901 per
head and other cattle, s4.96 per head.
The value of sheep has increased S4.s6
each. and swine have gone up $1.I6
each. thus emphasizing the necessity
for sporkless days" The total value
of live stock in the United States ut
the end of 1917 was $S,2e3,o24,o0n.
which is an increase of $1,527,912,000
over the figures for the previous year.
There is much discussion of industrial
slackers these days. but the RECORDS
of the department of agriculture show
that patriotism still flourishes on the
farm. The problem of farm labor looms
big on the horizon this spring and UNI
less adequate provision is made by
the national government and its local
representatives the planting and har-
vesting seasons win fail to be util-
lied to the extent the worlds demand
for food requires.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

of rubber webbing in these corsets. That
is what does the trick.
II women over here follow the lead of
women over there, then high collars will
not be in SO great demand this spring
and summer as they have been this Win
ter. For, you know. they say the high
collar is already a thing that the French
women have tired of. We hardly take
it seriously when we are informed that
it is no longer part of the new scheme
of things. But though the high collar
is not to be in such demand, there are
other accessories of neckwear that will
make the neckwear counter in the de-
partment store and the womens wear
shop popular this season. The new Peter
Pan, Lord Fauntelroy or Buster Brown
collar-call it what you choose-calls for
neckties. And these neckties are ex-
tremely attractive Foulard is one of the
favorite materials for them, and blue
with white spots is especially popular.
Bright colored ties are also bound to be
, popular, and for the woman who can at
ford it pure white ties of foulard or some
other silk are also good selection.
Organize and net by the yard, with
irufflings and pleatings attached, is made
into some very attractive frocks for
young girls. These fabrics may be made
into skirts that are not too bouffant for
the present mode. Sometimes a net foun-
dation shows applied tucks of pink or
candle. Again an organdie foundation
has tiny Fittings of self-colored organdie.
The long front panel is featured in
many frocks-that is, a panel in skirt
and bodice, which may or may not be
separated by a belt or girdle of fabric
| contrasting in color or material with that
of the rest of the frock. For instance. a
| figured foulard frock will show a panel
| in both bodies and skirt of satin in the
| color of the ground or the figure in the
| foulard. A serge frock will have panel
of satin, a Georgette frock will be pan-
eled with tulle or lace.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
The Alien As a War Risk

''The present occupants of the sofl
of the United States of America born
abroad or of foreign-born parents,
make up about one-third of our en-
tire population" says Samuel Hop
kins Adams in Everybody's. Fifty per
cent of the foreign born are males of
working age, and how little they, the
illiterate among them, tend conscious
" to merge with our civilization IS
suggested by the fact that only four
in a thousand attend school to learn
English.
I'm the iron and steel industries
vital to the waging of WARP east OF
the Mississippi 81 per cent of the en-
ployes are foreign born. In the mines
of the soft coal states (basically I'M
portant to war industry more than 81
per cent are foreign born. WOODEN tex
tiles and clothing are essential to
army equipment; in the north Atlantic
wooden and worsted mills, 81 per cent
Of the operatives are foreign born,
and in the clothing manufacturing
trades of New York. Rochester, Baltl-
more and Chicago, 70 per cent.
Modern warfare is very largely
matter of railroad transportation. Two
thirds of the construction and mains
tenance work on our railways is done
by the foreign born. Suppose even
small percentage of these formidapiy
large percentages prove actively dis
loyal Might not a fatal slowing UP OF
our war activities result: Isn't it about
time that we began to think OF the
alien seriously as war risk?
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

The attempt to Dolly Vardenize our
clothes began in Palm Beach in Janu-
airy. As soon as the French openings
began in February, we, over here, learned
that they, over there, had begun the
same trick in costumery.
Organizes. printed voiles and lowered
chiffons were the materials used for
these frocks, which bore close kinship
to A softer epoch than the one in which
we take our part today.
1t is of psychological interest this in
PRODUCTION into women's apparel of a
kind of costumery that suggests every
thing we are not at this hour. There
may be no reason than that of tradition
for us to associate lowered muslins,
big taffeta sashes with bows at the
back immense English garden hats tied
under the chin, and lace-covered para
soils with that part of woman's nature
that deals in coquetry, the eternal ap-
peal to masculine admiration, helpless
ness, and all the accentuated tricks of
femininity which the world thought it
had wiped out to certain measure.
Yet we do connect these clothes and
these traits. The world always looks
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

tivity. We have special riding corsets
and bathing corsets, special nesilgee cor
sets and special decollete corsets, honse-
work corsets and tennis corsets-all oil
them made little different from the rest
to suit the demands of the special thing
for which they were intended Motoring
corsets must be strong and firm enough
to hold the figure comfortably and at
tractively, but they must be as free IS
possible from bones for it is the bones
that are distressing when one is sitting
in the same posture, being logged over
country roads for hours at time. And
this is exactly what the new motor cor
sets are. They have only one or two
bones, yet they are real corsets and
strong enough to hold even the heavy
figure Although rubber is hard to get
and high priced there is goodly amount
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31


Bust Cooed Iaeta
Are Evidently Lie Down Together in sona
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
yenice's Natural Defenses

Rev. Alexander Robertson, IN the Chris
tan Herald.
Venice on three sides, north, south
and east, is surrounded by widespread
ing shallow lagoons. Through these
wind waterways (canalD deep enough
for big ships to navigate. and which are
nraked off by groups Of thick poles
(palD driven deeply into their bankss
But even with these, no ships dare enter
without a pilot. Pull up these "pali.
as the old republic did when Venice was
threatened from the sea-as for example
BY King Pepin-and no boat could pos
sibly get near the city. OF course, with
modern cannon, that would be no de-
fense today. The coastline to the north
is not far distant, only some u miles,
Travellers who visit Torcello, the island
nearest it, can follow it's outline quite
easily. But do NOT suppose any Amer
leans nave ever tried to reach 1t. They
would find 1t impossible to land There
are miles of marsh. thiclxlv covered
with reeds and brushwood. An enemy
could never come through it. But that y
venice's northern line Of natural a.
feEse.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

lieve that there was happiness and gay
ETY. in the world.
Callot gives US green to quiet our
nerves She gives us chance to get
away from navy blue and still remain
demurely and soberly frocked.
1t may be said that Callot has no idea
of letting us appear demure. Evidently
that house employed as many embroid-
cries as it could find in Paris and used
UP all the brilliant dyes for which II Is
famous, because ornamentation of the
most sombre frock, unless IT is black
runs riot in the Callot clothes
There is strikingly dangerous ten
dency toward over-coloring in some OF
the new French gowns. Really, you
know, when women are allowed to wear
dozens of small mirrors embroidered to
Ia Burgundy background. fringes of COM
bined ostrich feathers, girdles that dan
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

llron a woman who is frocked in fg-
ured muslin, her eyes shaded with
huge hat her arms half bare and rose
at her belt, as one who is out for adj
mration.
We do not wish to deny her this pleas
ure we cavil not at the sex instinct TO
flutter bright-colored plumage; we do
not disapprove of femininity in TINS
guise-but today we look at it with as
tonished eyes So much water has gone
under the bridge of life since these
clothes were considered fetching and ap-
propriate.
1t would not be possible to summarize,
even within the covers Of a thick book,
the things that have happened to wom-
en- since then. Stupendous as is their
work in the war and their successful
fights for suffrage these are only keys
that are opening barred doors to wider
fields of life. Woman herself, in mass,
has been developed from the soul out.
she has found expression of this more
fttingly in her return TO barbaric IN
surgent clothes than she could possibly
find in a return to the Dolly Warden,
Watteau shepherdess, English cathedral
garden STYLE
THE LEOPARD AND HIS SPOTS
There cannot arise a critic so foolish
in these days as to suggest that the
militant woman is not capable of look
ing like a Vatican shepherdess II she
takes it into her mind to do so. There
fore. our surprise is not that the womer
OF the moment should appear well in thu
English garden type of clothes, Will
which one always associates strawber
ries and cream, low voices, waving hai
parted in the middle, and shy, almos
gauche manners, but that they SHOULD
elect this flowery and futile fashion
this hour
Yet they are doing it. Both Franc
and America are heaping figured FAB
RIGS upon its womankind. Lace is In
stalled again. Immense bows Of taffet
ribbon, sashes of every kind, flowin
elbow sleeves; surplice necks with wild
handkerchiefs of colored fabrics. ar
shown and worn by women who hay
probably spent the morning at elias
in nursing at hospital and will spen
the evening at a canteen.
Isn't this curious psychological thing
Here we have preached for two year
the strengthening tendency of women t
dress more and more like men in tn
day. and either very simply or in a.
Amaxonian fashion in the evening.
We have tried TO standardize clothes
foolishly. but earnestly. throughout q
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

gle monkey-fur. and even colored fedth-
ers from birds, across the bodice, taen
it is time to stop, look and listen'
We are acting like barbarians in the
way We fly at each others threats and.
kill millions of men a year, it is true,
but one shrinks back from the idea OF
women going about in the costumery OF
L. Il, ,lcon ri
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

clothes, one thing is certain: 1t has
rivals cheruit stipulated the tendency
toward Japanese effects by throwing the
balance of her power to them. In her
exhibition in Paris, during the last part
of February she introduced the kimono
in a more personal way than any of the
other designers. She admitted into the
society of her best gowns the sloping
shoulders, the long, loose armholes, the
flowing three-quarter sleeves turned UP
at the hem. She departed from the
Japanese in the waistline, which she
placed at the hips, instead of under the
bust-or at least she made her huge Chi
nese girdles begin at the waist and 80
over the hips, instead Of extending far
above the waist.
Cheruit also accumulated her gowns
with japanese embroidery; but in this
work she was not alone, for the house
| of Callot did the same thing. She dipped
| into the far east when she employed a
trimming made of tiny pieces of metal
that shone like mirrors, the edges of
| which were embroidered in with bold
| coIors.
drape ourselves in these clothes, although
they are clearly reminiscent Of GER
tain portion of Chinese costumery. need
ing only the peacock feathers in the
hair to accent the whole.
1t is rather interesting that the world
of dress should give itself over SO whole
heartedly to the costumery OF the far
| 90 st tn the student of clothes the rea-
son is bit difficult to find, unless one
looks into the psychology. Of the war for
it, 1t is doubtful whether France will
care very much In the near future for
, costumery that represents the vast peo-
pies of Greater Russia, but she may re-
member that Russia came out Of the
far east and that the real door to it is
through Pekin. The Mongolian streak
runs across the steppes. and under the
birch trees, and onward toward the tur-
quoise- blue domes OF Peters Marshes
! Has France gone backward through this
! steppes from revolutionary Petrograd tc
republican Pekin? There is much o.
China in the clothes of the hour.
, Reasoning out the Japanese influences
is simpler, for it may merely mean tina
the French designers are throwing sar
torial bouquets to their ally
) CHINESE INFLUENCE
There is not much feeling Of satisfac
1 ton in the adoption OF Japanese clothes
Once upon a time whatever came from
. the Little Kingdom was eagerly seize
i as having artistic merit Of the highes
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
CHINESE INFLUENCE

There is not much feeling OF satisfac-
ton in the adoption of Japanese clothes.
Once upon a time whatever came from
the Little Kingdom was eagerly seized
as having artistic merit OF the highest
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
.CULLED FROM
SPRING SHOPS

Once. YOU know a Spanish princess
certain war was won, and as that took
many months, the result was that fash
ionable pSanish ladies of the time, who
looked to this princess for leadership In
the matter of dress. soon came to adopt
yellowish-brown sort of linen for tneir
kerchiefs. fuckers, wimples and other
similar apparel. The princess name
was Isabella, and this fashionable shade
was known as Isabella color, and one
occasionally hears this name applied in
Paris even to this day to sort of yell
lowish- brown that really does look like
linen that had been dedicated to laun-
dryless existence. Although we have mad
every shade of lingerie, we have not vet
had this color. The next thing to it.
and something that surely wouldn't APP
peal to all womankind, is the new linz
gerie of nickel-gray that has been put
on the shelves of one or two Of the ex-
elusive women's shops. There is a com
plete set of this gray underwear in crepe
de chine. 1t is made with extreme SIM
plioity, the only decoration being roses
and festoons artfully devised out Of gray
crepe.
| 1t is funny that the idea of motoring
corsets has not been played up stronger
than 1t has in the past. For the stout
woman, motoring sometimes assumes a
guise little short Of torture. simply be-
| cause most corsets are not we'll adapted
10 this form OF activity. Or rather mac
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

It is told Of Landlord Keeler that
when he opened his hotel in Albany. ~
". he threw the key in the Tucson
river and the hotel never mas been lockeu
since
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31
BACK TO THE DIRECToIRE

In the reaction toward the Directoire,
which has come about through the infiu
ence of many designers, there is return
to the classicism that was insisted upon
by Nine. Tallien and Josephine in the
days of the Directoire. You remember
that these two women established sim
plicity and, history says. semi-nudity, as
a protest to the extraordinary frivolity
of the gowns of Marie Antoinette. Our
fashionable women have already adopted
the short hair which these two brought
into fashion in France, and Which was
called the couture a la victime" Today
the hair is worn pulled up on top of the
head sometimes ending in a mass OF
ringlets. as was the fashion Of the Direc-
torie, when the short locks We're consid-
cred badge of honor.
| These Directoire froclls are one-piece
slips. girdled high under the bust. with
short sleeves and slight round neck.
Callot makes them to look as though
they We're Directoire grated on Egyp-
itian-a curious combination indeed
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1918-03-31

StrongJa n km Into
Formal FrockC
noIt and Up Thread
ArrorA Used a Ornane 0 o.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
FORMER CHOIR BOY. 16,
 SENTENCED TO DEATH

NEW YORK: It took jury only twenty minutes to decide that Paul Chapman, 16-yearold youth, should pay the death penalty for having par ticipated in the robbery of Brook lyn store last October, during which Harry Reginsburg. the proprietor, and his wife badly injured. Chapman, a former choir boy, six feet tall and looking older than he is, received the jury's verdict of guilty stoically.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
CANADA GIVEN
 USE J. 5. PORTS
Commissioner Redfield Gives Permis- mission to Canadian Fishing Ves-
 sels to Enter and Clear

WASHINGTON, D. C., Feb. 26.-- With the approval of President Will son, Secretary of Commerce Redfield today issued order to Collectors in American ports to allow Canadian fishing vessels to enter and clear be- tween American fishing ports and the banks, reciprocal privileges have been asked for American vessels from Canada, thus clearing up one of the questions under discussion by the American and Canadian joint fisher ies commission.
 The action was deemed necessary to increase the food supply of the two nations, and is the sole reason given for the relaxation of the heretofore stringent rules.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
CHRIS PETERSON DIES
 AS HE CHECKS TRUNK

Chris PetersOn a local carpenter, died in Seattle February 16. as he was checking his trunk to return to this city. The deceased, who was 45 years of age, had been visiting in the States for several weeks, and had gone to the wharf to check his trunk with the intention of returning to Valdez on the steamship Alaska. AS he stoop- ed over to examine a card placed on the handle of the trunk, he gasped and fell. Prompt assistance was giv- en him, and he was rushed to the gen. eral hospital, but died without regain ing consciousness.
 Chris left Valdez to visit his wife, who is in a sanitarium at Portland, and spent several weeks with her. He had just arrived from Portland at the time of his demise.
 The deceased was a native of Dem mark, and had been a resident of AL aska for 25 years. residing at Kodiak. Unga and many of the interior camps. He was of companionable disposi- tion and had many friends in the city.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
PURITAN SABBATH
 FOR VICTORIA, B. C..

VICTORIA: Beginning the first Of the month Victoria has been forced to observe to the letter the Lords day act, according to a ruling of the po- lice commissioner. All offenses under the act will be noted and the names of the offenders and particulars or the alleged offenses will be forward ed to the attorney general. when, if he consents prosecution will be laid.
 The lid is to be clamped down tight. News stands. cigar stands, fruit stores, ice cream parlors. all will come' under the operation. No business or: calling will be allowed unless 1t is held to constitute a work of necessity or mercy. III, T., forbidden. The sale of gasoline will be m infraction of the act. so that a garage cannot keep open.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
HALF OF SHEPPARD WORKERS
 NEEDED BY L. $. ARE SECURED

WASTIINGTON: More than half of the great number of shipyard work CTS needed to carry out the country's $ merchant marine program have been secured in the first half of the first week of the nationwide enrolment campaign by the United States public service reserve. This is shown by in complete returns to Wm. F.. Hall. di- rector of the reserve. MT. Hall point ed out that to get suitable men is more important than speed in attain ing the quota. He emphasized the fact that men are not expected to leave their present jobs until they are call ed upon by the labor department for shipbuilding service.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
GERMAN PRIZE
 VESSEL ASHORE
Attempts to Reach Baltic and Goes Ashore Near Skaw Lighthouse
 -.AmericanS Aboard

COPENHAGEN. Feb. 26. - The Spanish steamship Igotz Mendi. with a German prize crew aboard. ell route is ashore near the Skaw lighthouse, on the end of Jutland. between Skag- CT Rock and the Cattegat. Two of the prisoners aboard are Americans cap tured by German raiders. The pris- oners on the Igotz Mendi were taken from six vessels which had been sunk. Several of the prisoners have been aboard the steamer for eight months while she cruised the Pacific in search of prey.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26

Revel, the capital of Esthonia, IS city of about 100000 inhabitants, sit uated at the entrance to the Gulf of Finland, at it's junction with the Bal tic and is an important military and shipping center. Three railways enter the city, and a line of steamers ply to Helsingfors, about 50 miles across the Gulf, and the capital of Finland. A formidable fort guards the en- trance to the gulf, and minor forts are scattered along the waterfront for several miles. Corn, flax. ship building, potash, timber and fish are exported to the countries bordering the Baltic, and several colleges and schools are established in the city. Cattle raising is carried on extensive Iy in the vicinity of Revel, fishing is of not much importance, put few hundred men being engaged in 1t. A military line of railway connects Rev el with Petrograd.
 Pskov is a city of about '5.OOO 1n- habitants, and is in rich timber and agricultural section.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
BCSHMAN WILL ACT
 FOR SALMON BANNERS

To represent the salmon fisheries of Alaska in the food administration 8 program of regulating the fishing in- dustry of the Pacific coast. August Bushman, president of the Deep Sea Packing Company, has accepted an appointment from Royal A. Gunni- son, of Juneau, food administrator for Alaska.
 MT. Bushman will represent the AL aska salmon canning industry in the series of conferences which begin at the New Washington hotel to regu- late the fishing industry of the Pa cific coast and bring 1t completely under the control of the United States food administration. The an nouncement was made last night by MT. Gunnison on his return from the food administration conference in Oregon. Mr. Rushman owns a can nery at Knik arm and at Cape Ed wards, making his home at the lat ter place. He is at present on a bus iness trip to Seattle.
Valdez daily prospector., 1918-02-26
ALASKA CAPTAINS
 GET J. s. VESSELS
Capt. Hartman and Capt. McMullen Assigned to Command of $500
 Ton Steamships

SEATTLE, Feb. 26., - Captain Fred Hartman, a well known old time Alaskan steamship captain, run ming to northern ports for many years and Capt. c. B. McMullen, formerly in command of the Steamship Dora, and later in command of the Ketchi- kan, have been given command of the big $500 ton government steamships. the Point Lomo and the West Shore. recently launched from Seattle ship yards.
 Both men are experienced naviga- tors, and both have host of friends in every port on the Pacific coast.