davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
A PRETTY FINISH FOR A CHIF- FON BLOUSE


 MT IS more or less of a problem, H always, how to finish the neck H and sleeves of chiffon or a Georgette blouse made at home. Just now the flat neck finish is more fashionable than any sort of collar on such blouse, and one may not pick up ready-made bit of neckwear to complete one's home creation. A very good looking French blouse of pale ecru Georgette has deep V neck opening and flowing bell sleeves that fall midway between elbow and wrist Bands of the chiffon, shirred at both edges over fine cord. edge neck and sleeves. The shirred bands are two inches wide and the shirring Is done exquisitely with tiny, hand-set stitches. A shirred band edges each sleeve and the trimming goes around the neck. down each side of the V, and com tinues down each front edge of the blouse A long bead chain of coral falls flatly ever this neck-trimming and the whole effect Is charmingiy simple and graceful.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
TUCKS AND FRILLS MAKE OR CANDY FROCKS
 ENCHANTING

TAND-TUCKING and little ruff E4A filings are tho cheapest sort of
 E M trimming in tho world They V cost a deal less than lace or embroidery insertions. yet this sum- mer they add deal more smartness to the lingerie frock. The frock is of organdy, in pure white or some deli cate pastel shade. and e multitude of tiny tucks and yards of tiny friilings make the most delightful (and eco nomical) trimming. One such frock, of palest yellow organdy has . group of ten pintucks running round the skirt at the hip. and below the tuoks Is a narrow pleated frill set on the skirt so that it stands up as 1t would from a cuff. Two slashed pockets above the tucks and frill are edged all around with the pleated frilling. and the same narrow frilling edges g deep tucked collar and turned back tucked cuffs that come just below the turn of the elbow This fresh. datnty summer frock is completed by . sash of pale yellow ribbon. tied in . big bow at the back.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11

@vEN IF THIS were not wartime,
 every thrifty housewife would
 welcome the advent of new
 NA bread cutter that Is always ready to cut neat. accurate slices, without a crumb wasted, without an uneven "heel" left on the loaf, and with no danger of slashins the fingers in the cutting process. Slicing bread evenly and nicely is good deal of a knack, and some women never seem to acquire the knack. It Is especially hard to shave off wafer-thin slices from an ordinary bakers loaf which, unless in just the right stage between over-freshness and over-staleness, is apt to crumble away in the most ex- asperating manner. The loaf may be cut on the table. which is what Uncle Sam asks. and the bread cutting outfit is dainty and attractive enough for the most beautifully set home table. The edge of the bread board is in ivory finish and there is a slightly concave rim so that no least crumb strays to the tablecloth. The board itself is of smoothly finished hard wood, and the cutting frame is of Sheffield nickel plate. The cutting knife is very sharp. O. course-as any good bread knife has to be-and the handle is in Ivory finish to match the edge of the bread board.
 The illustration shows the various thicknesses in which bread may be cut: An eighth of an inch thick for afternoon tea sandwiches. wee bit thicker for crisp breakfast toast, thicker yet for picnic lunch sand wiches. and lastly in good hearty slices for the school boys appetite. Any sort of bread can be cut in this man. or fresh. it matters not to the efficient knife and cutting ma chine. Loaf cakes may be sliced even- ly and neatly also.
 But. of course. the most admirable feature about the new bread cutter is its saving for Uncle Sam. It is almost a crime to waste scrap of food these
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11

ihto the design. The one sided panel is extremely smart from the Paris l standpoint At the side of this panel the coat has long. dignified lines; at the other side the short hip 'acket effect is quite youthful and coquettish
 Cninchilla fur of beautiful quality trims neck and sleeves and a line oi velvet buttons is carried up each rath. CT tight-fitting coat sleeve. This coat has no belt; neither has the Georgette coat of beaver-plush. The Bernard | coat has only a half-belt at the front and the coat first described, of fur | fabric and muskrat, has a belt sc fiat that it is scarcely noticeable
 Belts are not the feature of coats that they were and even the utility coats are less conspicu ously trimmed with belts and pockets. Collars and cuffs, however, make up for any ab- sence of other trimming, some of the cuffs extending above the turn of the elbow m
 Fringed Coats The Rage
 Of all the new coats for fall and winter. 1t is likely that the frineed models will have the greatest appeal to femininity. They are so entirely new and so enchantingly graceful. Even very stout woman will look better than can be expected in one of these fringed garments which seem to have the magic quality of turning curves into straight lines A most beautiful fringed coat Is pictured, a model originated by Cheruit. The long, silky fringe drops even from the sleeve and crosses the front and back of the coat between side dra- peries of velvet which extend to the foot of the garment. The lines are very simple, quite flat at back and front. the softness of the sleeve and the side drapery relieving any possi- ,ble suggestion of plainness. A narrow sash around the waist is knotted at the front. the sash ends falling at the front. over the upper band of fringe trimming. This coat has a wide col lar of velvet which drapes softly over the shoulders when turned down and which may be swathed up about the throat with equal grace when desired.
 Panels Much Used To Give Long
 Lines
 4 notable model from Martial ct Armand has new arrangement of panels at the sides of the skirt. and this coat. also, shows the predilection Of Paris couturiers now for fur-fabric as trimming. It is made of ribbed wool jersey in soft beaver brown shade, exactly matched by the fur fabric in beaver effect. and the design or the coat carries out the soft. supple erect of the materiaD used. The coat IS all In one piece. the fronts crossing m double breasted manner, and a narrow belt of the material passes around the back. slightly tapering the coat into the figure at this point Buttons hold the ends of the belt at either side of the double breasted front and at the left side the belt falls in two long ends--from the but ton-to point below the knee. At
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
A CONVENIENT PULLMAN TOILET
 CASE

EAA OST attractive and practical is a |HHV little touring case. which may be
 tucked into the traveling bag. The outer side of the case is of change able silk, the lining of white rubber: and the base is about six by eight inches. You would never guess that in this compact little affair are all the necessities for a careful toilet; hand mirror, brush and comb, vanity and manicure belongings and small in ner case for pins and trinkets.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
Belts Ban;shed From High Priced ode1s- Cuffs Bqqer and More Conspicuous Than Euer A Winter Coat
 Without Thread of Wool In It. Sashes

T IS GOING to be a long, cold
 winter-at least one gets that
 idea, looking over the new models = in coatwear. They all give the suggestion of splendid warmth, of cozy comfort on a zero day with their rather loose, ample lines, their enor- nous collars swathing the throat, their big cuffs into which fingertips may be tucked, muff-fashion and their lavish fur trimming. If anybody has been imagining that the winter coats were going to express conservation of material by meager lines and general skimpiness, she will have the sur prise of her life when the new models are fairly launched. As yet, of course, they are visible only to privileged eyes and most of them will not be ex- plotted for public view until the Sep tember openings But in today's photographic illustrations of some au- thoritative Paris and American coats for fall you get pretty good idea of the general trend of fashion in coat wear. These. of course, are the ex- elusive coats, not the sort one selects te run about in, whatever the weather, and wear over knockabout frocks all winter long. Coats of that type are ready too, though scarcely yet on view. They are made of cheviot, of :, velour. of kersey and of various plush materials that approach more or less closely to natural fur effect The handsomer coats are of velour, again. (velour leads every list of coat ma terials just now!) of bolivia cloth, of beautiful. suede-finished cloths and of velvet. Among the exclusive coats also are fur-fabric models.
 Plushcs That Look Like Fur
 Some of these fur limitations are exceedingly good in texture and color; and just now there is no prejudice against fur fabric-it is regarded as d material of distinction. if it's quality is fine enough to warrant the term, and some coats of fur fabric are heavily trimmed with real fur, the two ma terials showing off we'll in spite of a contrast that might we'll be disastrous to one of them. The successful result achieved by using fur and fur-fabric together Is shown in one of today's illustrations: The picture of a walk NA.o ~SeS VI OidCh SILK PlQSu III DdDy lamb effect, trimmed extravagantly with muskrat. The fur mounts quite to the hips and pockets of the fur fabric are outlined upon 1t at either side of the front. The deep cuffs and stunning collar are Of muslxrat. This coat has the voluminous. almost bulky lines that give an effect of great warmth for very cold weather. but the lines are graceful, none-the-less. and the coat has excellent style. Note the nat belt low on the hip which hides the joining of the fur fabric and fur.
 Georgette Fancies A Beaver-Like Eur
 Fabric
 One of the most distinguished silk plush coatings of next season prom ises to be a warm brown beaver-Iike fur fabrics much favored by some of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
A HARD TIME FOR HOME DRESs.
 MAKERS

KA OW IT is snap-fasteners that
 are going up." One has. be-
 come used to paying ten and U A eleven cents for spools of sewing, silk, six cents instead of five for ma chine cotton and basting thread. and bit extra for belting, tape and other necessities of the work basket. The acuteness of labor conditions is the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
Little Things of
 Feminine Interest.
Notes a11d Noue1ties.

familiar reason given for the ad- vanced price on snap-fasteners, and it is darkly hinted that, because of the increased cost of paper and cardboard. snap-fasteners, may hereafter be sold loose in envelopes and, one will have ing them conveniently from q card. If all thesa things, however are help ing to win the war, womankind will not complain, and after all. the extra pennies on sewing materials and the inconvenience of q little extra labor to the home dressmalser are minor trials which one must take good-temperedly in these days when everybody is doing her best to keep sunny and to help.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11

| ] produced very handsome coat of
 this material. with lining of rich blue
 ottoman silk, the blue silk turning
 back from slashes in the coat skirt
 and making an enchanting color
 scheme with the soft beaver tone of
 the silk plush. There Is a facing of the blue ottoman on the collar also;
 and when the coat is thrown over a
 chair the blue lining is no small part
 of the garments elegance. This coat
 has the new dolman suggestion, noted i in many of the French coats for fall. l The sleeves are in dolman effect and are exceedingly graceful in combina- ton with the flat, long line at the back of the coat, from collar to hem. One telling little point you must not overlook, in studying this Georgette coat; that the sleeves make long, wristed gloves essential. Paris Is go- ing back to mousquetaire gloves, as they used to be called-long-wristed gloves that is, that wrinkle on the fore-arm-and such gloves always give formal. dressy look to the cos tune.
 Capes Of Fur On Coats Of Velvet.
 One says fur" for short; 1t is really fur fabric again. Indeed, the handsome silk plushes in fur effect, promise to be the seasons craze Der nard has combined black silk plush in Persian Paw effect with deep green velvet. A picture of this coat is shown also. There seems to be very little green velvet-just enough to- add . compelling color note to the wrap. which has dolman-like cape above a slightly gathered skirt deep- ly bordered with fabric matching the cape. A front view of this coat, how ever, reveals more green velvet, for the cape extends only across the back and sleeves, the coat fronts being of velvet which runs up from the skirt portion. a fiat belt of the fur-fabric crossing low waistline. The sleeves fall away from the arm to show long wristed gloves, as in the Georgette coat. There is another very French touch about the Bernard model. When the arm is lowered, the sharply point ed sleeve falls downward and It's pointed end its almost accurately Into the point made in the skirt by the arrangement of the fur-fabric trim ming.
 When Belts Are Eliminated
 No gathering of new coats is ever complete without model from Bull log. whose coats are famous the world over. Bulfoz adds to the collection today a very smart black velvet coat, which is exceedingly Partisan. and astonishingly different" and interest ing; but which lacks the youthful sug- gestion that makes the success of any model imported at . seasons begin ming foregone conclusion. This coat will look we'll on Q matron, but there is nothing captivating or girlish about 1t. It is rather elegant, impressive. chic. The material is black velvet. the embroidery in gray and silver. with mother of pearl buttons worked
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11

Georgette over white satin. Small black ostrich feathers are appliqued to this facing. radiatine from the in side Cor head-size) of the hat. to, the outer edge of the brim. A number of small feathers could be dyed black and used In this way with very good effect.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
New Beaver Like Plush Of Beautiful
 Texture wlthchinese Blue Ottonan silk

either side of the skirt panels of beaver fur trimming rise almost to the waistlne. Over these papels are slightly smaller panels of the jersey, buttoned at the top to the fur-fabric panels in pocket effect. Cuffs and wide. convertible collar are of beaver fabric with facings of wool jersey but toned down like the skirt panels.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11
A WAY TO USE SMALL OSTRICH
 FEATHERS

TMLMOST EVERY woman has
 put away in her scrap box of
 millinery odds, and ends. a .1 nun1 ber sof small ostrich t3ns
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-08-11

not handsome enough to be used as
 hat trimming in the ordinary way.
 but almost too good to be thrown away One always plans to have such feathers made over into something sometime--and this Is just tho time.
 One of the stunning new millinery models of early autumn Is big hat of black velvet. with large, crushed velvet crown, gathered at one side un- der gold rose which seems to hold the folds of velvet in position. The wide velvet brim Is edged with a black and gold cord and under the brtm is facing of pale bisaue
The Cordova daily times., 1918-09-05
PROPf|ETY OF OvERALLs
FOR WOMEN APPROVED

BLOOMINGTON, Ind. Sept. o
Oyeralls for women workers have
been officially approved by the city
council, which held special session
to pass upon the propriety OF the use
OF these garments by women.
This is the home of a large furni.
ture factory. When the army called
many men workers to the colors,
women took their places. The state
factory law prohibits the wearing of
loose clothing near machinery, and
overalls were adopted by women
workers. Their appearance on the
street going to and from their work
caused protest to be filed with the
city council by the women leaders of
reform organization. The protest
was published.
1t was answered by mothers of
working girls, who held that the over
alls were more modest than the pre-
vailing styles in women's dress seen
on the streets of this college town.
The male employees of the factory raj
lied to the cause of the overall girls"
and the general superintendent issued
an open letter approving of overalls
for women
Finally Mayor Weaver called the
special session of the council. 1t was
attended by women workers and So
ciety women. After much discussion
the overalls were officially approved.
The Cordova daily times., 1918-09-05
BEDS DONATED
BY ALASkANS
APPRECIATED

Wounded "poilus" who occupy the
road towns to a war hospital at
Neuilly, France, are very grateful to
ceived by Mrs. Thomas Riggs, wife
OF Alaska's governor, from a girl
friend who visited the hospital in
May
Some of the beds have been named
after the towns which donated them.
The named ones are Nenana, Tai
keetna, Turnagain Arm, Fairbanks.
Matanuska, Seward and Anchorage.
All these towns are on the railroad
the government is building between
Seward and Fairbanks.
"In one of the Anchorage beds lay
a wounded French artillerist who was
smoking bad cigarettes with infinite
pleasure and cracking jokes and max
ing puns about the name of the town
in whose bed he lay" the letter says.
HE asked me to tell you he was
very grateful to his absent friends for
giving him such a comfortable re-
covery.
THE poilus were very much inter
ested in the fact that Ncnana is the
newest town in North America. and
said it made them feel quite old In
comparison because they could not
imagine what it would be like to live
in place where they could not think
back hundred years.
They were interested and amused
by my statement that American
women ride about over the snow in
dog sleds in Alaska, and some re-
marked that it would be much better
than the mud in Flanders. One said
1t would be fine, as all he would have
to do would be to unbuckle his arti.
fetal limbs and leave them behind.
Tell your Nenana friends that this
grim humor is the order of the day"
The Cordova daily times., 1918-09-05

The job printing department OF the
Times is equipped with the latest and
best type faces for artistic work.
The Cordova daily times., 1918-09-05

Your eyes fitted. Compound and
stigmatic lenses replaced See Os'
borne.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-10-05
Over Stewards Wire

New Orleans, October 4.----Latest war developments are reflected in the ac- tion of Liverpool That market cx- presses an easier feeling with increas- ing safety of shipping which the con quest of the Belgian coast could accen- tuate further. The tendency is towards a narrower parity between the mar kets, and straddle operations of selling at Liverpool and buying on our side are indicated by lower Liverpool again this morning. The effect On our markets after elimination of the first impression should be bullsh on pros poets of straddle demand In futures and prospects of increasing exrort de- mana Liverpool. for the first time in quite a while shows larger spot sales, totaling 4G00 bales.
 Foreign news continues very favor able.
 Filst trades here were at a decline
 of , to 15 points, soon followed by a further vacation of 30 points on weak ness at New York Advices from there reflect bearish sentiment over general check to speculative enterprise The latest dry goods report points to oppo- sition of consumers to present prices.
 It says: Cotton goods trading restrict ed by unwillingness of mills to add to contracts at present prices while cot ton is above a level of 30 cents On the other hand, spot reports in dicate strong resistance to decline and
 spot prices are materially above fu- lures
 While weather conditions were favor
 able overnight, indications point to a
 radical change before long Barometer
 1 lines show an extensive disturbance in southeast waters which will pro- mote the arrival of cold wave. Lad
 weather would have decided effect
 on the market, as there has been con- siderable selling on the good weathes argument.
 X report from New York says liqui-
 dation. poor support, reports of spots
 weakening. Spot people here find rather more inquiry. spots well held. Good middling Is trading f. Q. b. at i50 on October futures. which. on today 3
 break in futures figures considerably under spot quotations. but buyers say the volume of these hedged offerings | Is not great.-John F. Clark & Co.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-10-05
New York Futures
New Orleans Cotton

New Orleans October IA lower range of values was forced on the opening Of the cotton market today and the decline persisted throughout the session, lowest levels being reached on the close when the most active months were q to 9v points under the final quotations of yes terday There were practically no re- actions from the decline and the mar ket met little support at any time. Off, ferings came mainly from bearish trad CTS who were impressed with the favor able weather over the belt. Hedge sell ing was also a factor. Late in the day the market felt selling based on the re- port that allotments of ovean tonnage to the cotton trade during October and November had been cut to small propor- tons.
 The weather map was clear, dry and warm and prospects appeared to be for little change in these conditions during the next day or two.
 Bearish traders claimed that the favor able weather was putting new face on the new crop outlook and that the condi- ton of the crop, as it appeared in pri- vate reports, indicated a larger yielo than on September 25, the date of the final condition report of the season from inc government Little attention was maid to the favorable war news, or to snot quotations, which in this market stood unchanged at 33.13c for middling. as against the closing quotation on De- tober today of 3062c.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-10-05
HEDGE SELLING AND BETTER PROSPECTS SEND DOWN COTTON
General List Closed Steady, Southern Mills Reported Idle on Account of the
 Labor Shortage

New York, October 4.-Increased hedge selling and reports of improv- ing crop prospects were considered re- sponsible for sharp break in the cot ton market today. Trading was not particularly active and there was no excitement, but December broke from I3215c to 31.53c, closing at that level, with the general list, closing steady at net decline f62 to 105 points. The market opened easy at a decline of r. to Al points in response to lower
 cables. favorable weather map. Liver pool and southern selling. There were Irallies of a few points right after the call on covering. but otherwise there
 wAsavery little demand and prices soon weakened. some buying credited to either the French commission or Jap anse interests steadied the market mo- lmentarily around midday
 l Moderate rallies seemed to meet in creased southern offerings, however. while there was continued selling b housts- with Liverpool connections. The latter, which was supposed to be to hedge spots purchased in the south, en- couraged confidence in reports of in- creased spot offerings, and the market became very weak late in the afternoon when October sold at 32,03c and Jan uary at 31.25c, with active months gen erally selling about 67 to 9S points net | lower. The close was at just about the lowest point of the day.
 The commission on distribution has issued a statement assuring domestic spinners that individual mills will not | be- required to use any specific amount | of low grade cotton if the trade. as Ia whole~ can arrange to take the pro- portion of low grades considered fair and equitable for American mills. In a second statement the committee advised exporters that it would be to their advantage to make up and forward to l their foreign connections types of grades under middlng on which they
 will be willing to offer.
 l There were private advices that some of the southern cotton mills have been | forced to close because of labor short-
 age due to spanish influenza.