The Washington herald., 1918-09-22

! breadth. Skirts will be . trihe
longer, and will vary from a yard
and half to two yards in width
never over the latter.
Wide collars and cuffs will be the
vogue. and fur trimming will be re-
stricted to a touch here and there.
This reaction was bound to come.
when we consider the lavish spread
| ing-on OF pelts for the last few sea-
sons. Fabrics will include Evora
cloth. cashmere-velours, duvetyn.
tricotine and granada. These made
into suits will command a very high
price. and no doubt before the sea-
son Is well advanced will prove
something Of problem to the shop
keepers; for We are surely coming
to regulations restricting us to silks
and cottons, or at most combinations
Of wool and silk. There is a large
supply Of these suits on the mar
ket at the present time, and they are
a safe buy.
| Separate coats are showing a pro-
nounced lack of fullness. or a judi
| cious placing OF it. Shawl collars
and deep cuffs feature many models,
and for belts We see most the mar
row self-made ones. Ra CLAN sleeves
are extensively shown, and gay lin
+, ings are relieving the colors of the
winter. which lean toward dark
tones Floss stitchery and fringe
are popular trimmings on both coats
and suits. Under-arm panels are
shown in different form. on the
newest coats, and various arrange
ments of the belts accompany these.
Favored colors in woolens are led
by Pershing tan, closely followed
| by soldier blue, taupe, Burgundy,
blege. navy and green.
A designer of women's clothes
told me months ago. with perfect
sureness. that one piece dresses
were going out. as far as general
wear is concerned. However firm
the fashion arbiters are in this
dictum, It will take more than this
to deprive the American woman of
her dependable trotteur. The out
come Of the struggle is as yet in the
off1ng. but It must be admitted that
separate skirts and blouses are
gaining a strong foothold. And the
one piece dress OF yesterday, in its
straight lines like the chemise, has
sung its swan song. The new sill
houette clings closer to the figure,
tapers at the ankle, and drapes
where one least expects 1t. The
black satin dinner gown has be-
come a sort Of habit, along many
delightful and becoming lines, and
there seems to be no forecast Of an
abatement of its popularity. In con-
trast to these one sees a few bril-
liant dinner gowns OF cerise, emer-
aid green or kings purple carried
out in georgette. satin or combina-
tions, with sleeves of the crepe and
nothing to Offset their heaviness.
When looking over a gathering Of
well-dressed women ones first i'm
preston is Of inconspicuousness and
a tendency to somberness. Hats
supply the bright touches, and a few
\ costumes have contrasting collars
and cuffs. Gay scarfs will continue
to be worn. The most popular furs
will be the fox family, with the
exception of Red); beaver. nutria
and mole.
Fancy blouses are surely - to the
fore, and they are being created in
the gayest Of shades-fame, Belgian
blue. rose, volga green, pumpkin,
shadow lawn. mahogany and of
course flesh and white. MANY of
them are ornamented in Egyptian
embroidery and the round covi COL
lar. dropped low in front over a vest
| of batiste embroidery, is extensively
shown. Touches OF hand embroidery.
II faultlessly executed. are quite the
thing. and fagotting Is an easy ex-
preston OF daintiness and style. A
blouse's chief charm lies in little
original touches, which make II dis
tinctive, and 1t is for these touches
that We pay. Two figures on a waist
tag means nothing this fall But
there is always the consolation that
we can make our own, and add
touches that nobody else will have
A great many Of the Philippine and
French blouses are made very nIaIn-
ly, with tucks or plaits, depending
| on their workmanship for efYect
| Nothing daunted by raids and sbeI,
fire. Paris has sent to us MANY new
wrinkles in sleeves, many of which
are notifications Of the pufr sleeve
| OF other days. Some of them onen
below the elbow. or have insets Of
lace or contrasting material. Almost
without exception, French bIouses
are finished with girdles and nur,.
bers of them are sponsoring anron
| fronts out Of respect to the denar.ed
peplun. Most of the girdles are at.
tached along the front, to the under
arm seams. and they cross or tie In
the back. These are eeen ON bIou..,
| that may be worn with coat suits,
Some waists are collarless, but the
style is trying. Long narrow collars
are split on the shoulder and
trimmed in buttons, Others descend
to the girdle and disclose vests of
lace yelled in chiffon or exquisite
| embroidery.
One blouse OF gold geo-gette is
eoliared in brown, with O stitching
In heavy -growa doss. the only decor.