davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1918-08-25
A SHAMPOO WORTH TRYING

1t is not necessary to shampoo your
hair so frequently If it is entirely
and properly cleansed each time by
the use of a really good shampoo. The
easiest to use and quickest drying
alaTnpoo that we can recommend to
our readers is one that brings out all
Ine natural beauty Of the hair and may
9e enjoyed at very little expense. by
eSSolVlng teaspoonful of Canthrox.
Sneh can be obtained from any drug
gIs' IN cup Of hot water. This
Make full cup of shampoo liquid.
H.oGsn 50 it is easy to apply II to all
,he har instead OF Just to the top
u the head. This. when rubbed into
.N scalp and onto every strand Of
.slf chemically dissolves all impuri.
YES, 1t IS very soothing and cooling
" Us action, as we'll as beneficial to
ION %alp and hair. After rinsing out
we lather so created. you will find the
zap Is. fresh. clean and free from
e sah while the hair dries quickly
s,I evenly developing a bright luster
' vso, SOFT flufflneSs that makes it, seem
'Vey helyy,-Adv.
The sun., 1918-08-25

This ouestion Of the yniform IN be.
coming quite important
The American ouartermaster Corn,
10 arranging TO proyide American cir
workeu. A. r. F.. with uniforms and
To SUNNY shoes II will probablv HI
the army uniform NJ navy blue. al
worn nv our telephone girls and army
nurses in France With small overnea,
cap. The nurses At present wear the
large black hat. Ali finally will bt
Obliged to wear uniforms.
Take. for example. the A. A. As
American Armv Auxiliaries. American
girl clerks refused the initials. When
French girl employees. A. E. F.. came
down from Paris. they were given a
white arm band with the letters "a
A. A." to protect them, They were ex.
pected not to be seen in the street
without II. But the Signal Corps girls
from America had no need Of such
arm band protection, Chief operators
and assistant chiefs wear the band
with a silhouette telephone receiver
instea Of the initials, merely to dis.
tinguish their grade. The ordinary
telephone girl simply has her uniform
Whether or not they take the
initials, all on the army payrolls con-
stitute an auxiliary branch OF the
service. Long ago President Wilson
insisted on their being 80 considered
telephone girls. stenosraphers. copy
lists, Ming clerks, statisticals, post Of
fice or army nurses-for the purposes
OF insurance. among others.
All come, technically. under the
Womens Labor Bureau. A. Il. F.. even
the aristocratio army nurses. These
The sun., 1918-08-25
no ARE HELPING OUR FIGHTING MEN ABR

kept lodged so in winter. Part of an
immense old permanent French bar
racks of massive masonry in the town
Is being fitted up for them-and girl
clerks from America
Only those who have seen the fair
white walls and floors with Turkey
| rugs, for Generals, Colonels, Majors, in
a similar palatial old French barracks
| can appreciate the essential security
and comfort of the transformation.
A hundred or more American tele-
phone girls are installed In a hotel
which l shall call the "moderne"
(every French city has a "moderne").
The door sign is: "Signal Corps Club.
Y. w. c. A." Others are snug in
boarding houses. which they call, natu-
rally, "billets." In French families
some are polishing their already good
French. both colloquial and written.
Yet others are temporarily at the
hostess house Of the Y. w. C. A. on a
beautiful old avenue Of cathedral elms.
Among such I cite girl draughtsmen
Of the aviation and the engineers.
Before the war two such, to my knowl-
edge, were meritorious American girl
artists In Paris. receiving as high as
500 a portrait.
They are starting another large
camp, half way to b, to hold about
l,Os6 OF the first new American girl
clerks to be brought over. This Of
course for late summer and autumn.
Meanwhile. like to look into the
shady courtyard OF that hotel where
the Medical Corps stenographer girl
has a corner room on q flower garden.
am not sure she will keep 1t. Let
US call 1t the Hotel des Negociants
(there Is a "Negociants" in every
French city,. 1t had been a rather
expensive tourist house. Miss Gunther
nailed 1t over night. To-day. there
are some fifty pioneer American girl
stenographers and others In 1t.
They cannot stay at the Negociants
permanently. II II be required by 9TH
ers. Any of them. also, may be sent
up along the lines at any moment.
Hierarchy is evolving. I was much
impressed by that girl quartermaster
OF the Waacs, immaculate in uniform.
quietly decided in msnner-"that's
so!"-"that's TIA seeming school,
girl Of aristocratic poise. who never
theless has In her memory the hor-
rors OF heroic Mons What has she
not done since?
Then my admiration turned to two
American girl leaders. One q secre-
| tary In blue gray, pale. slender. ele-
CANT. was swiftly ticking of a guam
tity Of rest room requisites. The other
was Miss Gunther. Probably she has
lost twenty pounds n France. In the
sun faded khaki uniform Of an Ameri-
can Lieutenant. travel worn by swift
| trips to London and Paris. hair and cap
powdered by automobile dust. keen.
intent. talking business on an equal
ity with men. she personifed the
genius OF this development!
An Army Service Corps. they say.
10 forming in. America.
The C. H. Q. and q. p. B. say.
"Comel"
The sun., 1918-08-25

Of these details, but in general II ma,
be stated that our A. E. F. is MOI
only doing handsomely by thousand.
OF French women working In its sal
wage depots and at heavy ordinances
labor, but is also prepared to accept
full responsibility for American CIR
clerks who may be brought over.
Take the Waacs. OF the 5000, per
haps 1000 have arrived at the centra
records, with new groups coming daily
One wore an orange arm band, indi
eating an administrator. All are IL
uniform of faded light tint khaki
Typewriting. card filing. copying int
loose register pages, they work metic
ulously. proud Of their job. Hundred
OF enlisted men. clerking temporarily
beside them. speak well Of their ap
plication and capacity.
The place is vast. The clerkint
vista goes as far as eye can see. Ever,
family at home claims the right to ash
about it's boy. I saw a letter from al
italian Consul asking about a runaway
boy from Rio. Then Judge Of legiti
mate army clerking for 100000 sol
diers. After It come their post ONO,
requirements.
1.-THE Waacs." said their girl quar-
termaster, "are not called Waacs am
longer. Since Queen Mary Is Colone
In Chief we are Q. M. A. A. O.'s. 1t !,
harder to pronounce. but we prefer It.
They have a chief controller. like Z
General commanding. Suppose 200 o
this American unit be sent to B
they still remain under her. A cir
unit administrator corresponds to pos
commander. A girl quartermastei
completes the staff.
Exactly like a post quartermastel
she receives an material, furniture. &C.
except that food Is supplied ant
cooked by our A. e. r. post quarter
master. In their cook house a Mon
tana boy had Just turned out hot
fragrant batch OF cornbread. which
some forty blond Waacs gobbled with
enthusiasm.
The cornbread was just the color o.
the girls hair. and the spick and spar
girl quartermaster, Miss Sylvia Cor
ner, of sweet voice, glowing soap ant
water complexion, school girl sim
plicity-with the Star Of Mons and
Order of the British Empire on hol
khaki tailored coat-was Q symphon,
In browns. cloth uniform. silk blouse
tie, everything.
tits all right for you girls with
brown. eyes and brown hair" said al
American girl secretary in West Poin
gray blue. "but the best uniform Il
that Of the Y. w. G. Al"
American Red Cross women hai
been wearing similar gray blue. bu
their later models are much darker
The sun., 1918-08-25
BY ALICE ZISKA SNYDER.
PARIS. July 27.
THE Partisan Is true barometer
Of the times. Where for weeks
his face has heep 1rave almost


Of the times. Where for weeks
his face has been grave. almost
austere, to-day 1t CLOVIS with hope and
confidence. For the tide of battle has
turned and, even II you never saw a
newspaper. you could tell from the ex-
que was good.
Instead Of being worried or de-
pressed by the stirring events that are
happening within and without her
gates Paris goes about her business
just Is though the times were not out
Of joint. Cards for the fall fashion
openings are going out by every mail.
Jenny opens the season on August /.
and from then until August 80 femi-
nine Paris will concentrate her mind
on frocks and frills. on whether the
! new skirts will be narrow or wide. long
or short, whether squirrel or seal will
be the fur. whether hats will turn up
or down. This apparent frivolousness
is one Of the elements Of the strength
OF France; for 1t permits her to turn
a smiling face to the world, for which
characteristic friend and former de-
tractor alike must needs admire her.
While waiting for the curtain to rise
on the new Revue des Modes suppose
we take q look at the last act Of the
fashion show Just ending. AS to the
first early dress hints as to what is
worn, there is always a second bloom
ing. a new budding of the styles that
constitute true elegance. The same
thing happened this year. when the
premature departure from Paris of so
many of the smart set gave fashions
insufficient time to crystalline into con-
crete form.
Certain tentative modes died a-born-
ing, others came into full flower. as
for example that of the accepted COR
rect silhouette, which inclines to ex-
cessive narrowpess at the hem Of the
skirt. This line applies to tailored
frocks as we'll as to dresses with
tunics, in which latter the tendency
to draperies seems to be returning.
For tailored suits. always divided into
two camps-the severe and the elab-
orate-a line of demarcation has been
clearly established, one being the ac-
cepted thing for country and sea-
shore wear, the other adapted to tho
ld6t lew WcthS VI tHo ocdsohs
A great many OF these costumes are
made of taffeta, for the excellent rea-
son that good woollen weaves are as
expensive as thay arc rare. Also the
dog days come upon US so suddenly
that every woman pines for lighter
raiment, practical and vet different
from the transparent effects reserved
for the country. Hence taffets.
One OF the big Rue de la Paix
houses has put on the market charm
ing black taffeta model that does duty
as q dress or as q suit. Imagine q
straight. short, narrow skirt over
which goes a redingote Of tancta that
falls to within eight or twelve inches
OF the bottom OF the underslip. the
length depending on the height OF the
wearer. At the hips there Is bit Of
soft fulness, recalling the pOlonaise OF
Directoire days; a wide crush sash
CROSSES at the Waist, and knots In front
or aii the side in q loose bow over a
The sun., 1918-08-25

ever. and the coats resemble box coats
In their straight cut up and down
lines
For the most part these suits have
been developed In white. They come
from France. where they are much in
vogue for such sports as are INDUCED
in there at this time. As many fac
tories in France are closed clever knit
tiers have resorted to making this sort
Of garment.
A particularly good looking white
suit Of SOFT wool has a turned back
hem Of white Angora facing on the
skirt. The coat repeats the Angora
trimming in vest, collar, cuffs, hem
and belt.
Rainbow Tinted Wells.
Apropos Of white there has appeared
q revival Of the white silk dress which
was long pushed to one side by the
omnipresent dark blue silks and
georgettes. A very stunning one piece
frock is made Of a softly woven white
silk shot through thickly all over the
surface with a small round satin spot.
1t has no trimming whatever and no
draperies.
A very wide pleated rune outlines
the round, low cut neck, and in place
Of the hem a heavy cord finishes the
bottom Of the skirt. This heavy end
ing. by the way. is quite new and is
seen in many of the handsomest early
fall models.
The veil has played so important a
role this season that It would seem as
if no further novelties could appear.
However, we now have the rainbow
veil. 1t is Of white chiffon striped
vividly with very broad rows Of gay
Gplors-green, pink, blue. lavender.
The whole Is designed to be flung over
the hat and float of as 1t will.
Rainbow stripes, let me mention, are
The sun., 1918-08-25
(GS OUT STRIKING ONE PIECE FROCKS

home, since II is possible to buy the
materials by the yard. and thus made.
the cost Il much reduced. This woven
knitted stun lasts a lifetime and
comes in lovely colors.
The vest, let us note, grows more
and more pronounced until in some
instances It makes almost the entire
front Of the garment, the back serving
merely as a sort Of frame, as 1t were.
to set of its handsome ornamental
waistcoat. The panel vests reach from
neck to the hem Of the skirt apd but
for the belt which holds them in at the
waist would resemble the aprons
pinned around our necks at the hair
dresser's.
These long, panelled vestees are the
last word in fashion. They are en-
6roidereG along the hem with motifs in
heavy silken threads, Jets or light COL
ored beads and a fringe Is inevitable.
This brings to mind the tremendous
The sun., 1918-08-25

vogue for fringe. 1t Is seen every
where. II In used at the hem on very
tight skirts, It appears in ruffies set
on one above the other. on satin frocks
1t serves to edge bodices and to form
sleeves. That fringelike fur, known as
monkey fur, is having a great vogue
because Of this fringe fashion.
A new winter wrap Of heavy black
satin is made like the dolman our
grandmothers wore and has long
monkey fur along the bottom. around
the neck and where the sleeves would
be IL there were any. OF course dol
mans 10 not have sleeves.
To return to fringe 1t has never
been so much employed as now. The
clever makers OF artificial flowers are
using their deft fingers tying and
knotting chenille and silken threads
and stringing beads, for It Is to be q
fringe year and there is no end to
its uses.
The sun., 1918-08-25
Original Ideas Also
Being Shown in
Dainty Lingerie

waistcoat Of soft white silk that is full
and yet does not give the blouse effect.
The taffeta revers on the left side Is
embellished by flower in pastel tones
that Is embroidered in old fashioned
stitches.
This tunic overdress can also be car
ried out In other tissues. A tunic OF
Djersador over a crepe de chine slip Is
most attractive and delightfully."- sim
pie. Jersey, however. is generally used
for straight line, one piece "chemise
dresses" Worn over steel gray
underskirt Of this popular material,
the changing lights in the silk Of tho
jersey take on a fascinating metallic
sheen.
Another successful combination con-
tunic or overdress of pale tan serge.
One of the black satin revers is trans
muted into an abbes collar at the
shoulder and Is yelled with beige
mousseline de sole, the same color as
the serge. There is also a return ten
dency to soft satins and charmeuses,
than which materials there are none
more effective for draped effects.
Although 1t would seem as though
the last word had been spoken on
lingerie, the deft Paris LINGERIE is con-
stantly turning out new and attractive
models. The very difficulty of
creation seems to inspire her clever
fingers with original ideas. A trifie, a
mere nothing, a tiny detail. makes one
chemise absolutely different from
every other member Of the chemise
family. Oftenest the chemise is held
on over the shoulder by a ribbon, but
as even wash ribbon is not easily
Numbered the preference is for narrow
shoulder straps that are an integral
part of the garment itself.
The smartness Of the chemise lies in
the length and position of the
epaulettes, for nothing is more in.
harmonious to look at than q strap
that is constantly slipping down over
tho arm instead Of remaining In its
proper position on the shoulder.
Women with thin shoulders should put
these straps exactly above the centre
Of the bust and at a corresponding
position at the back. Those who have
plump shoulders can wear the straps
almost at the edge Of the shoulder
just where the arm begins.
The latest chemise Is plain at the
top, fitted under the arms and across
the back. but II the tissue Is very thin
few tiny tucks or gathers are placed
under the bust 70 that the garment
may be sufficiently wide over the hips
When the chemise is Of fine battste the
handwork. tho tucks. eyelets or en-
broidery enhance the value twofold
Some chemises are so beautifully made
that they are allowed to peep out
where the decolletage Of dress or
blouse ends. A few have tops made
The sun., 1918-08-25
Britain Lends 5000 Of Its Famous "Waacs" While
France Supplies Salvage Workers Americans Going
Over Soon and Will Be Assured Best of Care

Miss Gunther has Offices in Barracks
IS. On the door is simply Labor
Bureau"
I first met her at the post Quarter
masters telephoning about furniture
for 5000 Waacs. expected to arrive
next week. mean the Waacs. The
furniture beat them to,it.
She Is the young American woman
whose efficiency at Plattsburg brought
her into notice last year. She re-
NAMED six months as secretary to the
commandant Of the Plattsburg train
Ing camp. then came to France as
chief Of this Women's Labor Bureau.
The army had been averse to bring
ing women into tho game-at least.
American girls. 30. s:her first con-
tingent, apart from French A. A. AS
and not to mention French women
salvage workers or heavy ordnance
hands-became these Waacs. They
are 5000 English, Scotch and Irish
girls Of the Womens Army Auxiliary
Corps. due to take possession Of their
own camp outside this city. and. start
ing with the United States Army CEN
tral records and statistical depart
rnent. to 60 on replacing and releas-
ing to the front large numbers of en-
listed men temporarily detached for
clerical work.
Such was the hrst nssvs.
But 1t turns out that the Waacs
will be absorbed entirely by the Gen.
trail Records and Statisticals.
When you want labor on a large
scale you try to purchase II. One of
the great works of the general pur-
chasing bureau, A. z. #. In France,
has been to purchase labor. regularly
masculine. and gathered from many
quarters. Now. when our army chiefs
exposed the principal objection,
crowded ocean transportation, to send
ing any one home to bring out Ameri-
can girl clerical forces. the chief pur-
chasing agent in Paris. under whom
Miss Gunther works. asked her, nat
urally. to first try the British Isles.
And the British Government, after
six weeks and much discussion, an
swered: I'VE cannot give you organ
tied labor, but we will lend you a
regiment Of our Waacs."
These 5000 British girl clerks. who
may be technically asked back any
month. wsre supposed to be enough to
last Indefinitely for all our army
bureaus. but instead they are being
taken up by one great department.
Il results that the need OF American
girl clerks IL recognized. The Women's
Labor Bureau ought to recruit them.
Miss Gunther would 90. nrst. to WASH
ington. thence. probably. on Washing
toms decision, to other cities. Nat
urally. there q sSS sfsery in speaking
The sun., 1918-08-25
Many Are Severely Plain and in Sobre Colors Relieved
Only by Beads or Iulle Scarfs-Seeveless Coats and
Vests Being Made in Sil-Frnge Ponu1ar Aoan
q, MARTHA cooDE ANDERSON.

YUsT about this time we are apt
to grow so tired of our summer
J. things that we have the notion
that our clothes all look faded and
worn. As q matter Of fact. the hot
summer sun does quickly bring about
this unhappy condition in our ward-
robes. However, It is Just at this time
also that the shops offer many new and
delightful frocks and other fanciss.
For this reason i, am making this arti-
Gle a general fashion talk. beginning
with some of the new and lovely ono
piece frocks.
These new dresses are for the most
part severely plain. in sombre colors,
unrelieved by any touch Of color ex-
cspt such as is introduced in strings
Of beads to be hung round the neck
and reaching nearly to the kness.
Such bead strings will play an impor-
tant role this fall in dress. Women
have largely given over wearing their
finest jewels during the war period.
and the beads respond to the demand
for simplicity in all thingA Jade and
q queer bone bead dyed in red called
curant are new and very lovely.
TuIle scarfs Lonsef.
The tulle scarfs which have been
enveloping head and shoulders all
summer have descended to the waist
line. Quite the smareest sashes now
seen with thin summer frocks are
made Of tulle. For instance. a frock Of
white batiste. hand embroidered and
put together with strips Of fine valen-
cennes. has a narrow sash Of black
malines which ends in q fiuffed out
bow at the back. To avoid any sug-
gestion Of mourning a scarlet velvet
poppy with its petals tipped with Jet
10 introduced at the left side.
A pale pink organdy frock has q
very smart touch in its bright blue
tulle sash and bow. and purple pansfes
Ire tucked in the belt in front.
There seems to be q determined ef-
fort to introduce peplums and other
hip draperies. They are not altogether
unattractive, especially on the thin
net gowns. as then they are made up
in a stiff outstanding fashion quite
youthful and piquant. I doubt II they
will really he accenfed for mil, ~.
The sun., 1918-08-25
By STERLING HELLO.

n ECENT Paris illustrated week.
X lies showed q great parade
passing a grand stand. At the
head Of American hospital nurses
marched their girl Captain. according
TO French editors. bearing q military
commission.
From the main street Of q beautiful
Old French city, an American girl
stenographer. attached to the Army
Medical Corps bureau, turned into the
shady courtyard of one Of the smart
tourist hotels of before the war. taken
over by the A. e. r. She was in
uniform and carried a parcel.
Ten Of US arrived last night" she
haid, detached from Paris. have q
corner room with q view Of q flower
GARDEN
Have you bought your sugar from
the sales commissary?" I inquired,
ghncing at the parcel
You cannot tell me anything about
Quartermaster stores. Biscuits, STAN
dard chocolates, lemon drops. stick
candy in tins, Jack Frost pulverixed
sugar for fruits-I know them ALL"
such products, craved by civilians.
may be sold from army stores only
to the army.
rs your board included?"
u don't know" she answered with
simplicity. Here Is my travel order.
NsaySs2 day fiat, and they brought
US to this hotel I did not ask. We
girls can trust the ARMY"
The child spoke truth-an through.
ana more than she realized.
Great developments are in view. By
The time these lines are printed Miss
Elsie Gunther may possibly have ar
flVed in the United States from
france in the interest OF the Women's
Labor Rureau tfa chad 70 Tho n r
The sun., 1918-08-25

firmly set in the bag so they will not
pull out.
A variation Of this bag. which will
doubtless go to market very often, is
the white netted bag. made of very
strong cord and possessing great elias
The sun., 1918-08-25

interesting. Once we have seen them
we find ourselves wondering why
women dd not long ago set about
making them. for they are easy enough
to fashion. The skirts are perfectly
straight, without any fulness what
The sun., 1918-08-25

ITCHY. 1t is capable of holding many
purchases. As the cord netting is
mounted on a handsome leather frame
1t makes a good looking bag, which
will answer all needs.
Knitted sport suits are very new and
The sun., 1918-08-25

Mrs.
| der.
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need
Hers
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hter-
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klose
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wing
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ID J.
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The sun., 1918-08-25
UEE


| MI.
i. #.
week
Issett.
ks OF
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Miss
birth.
Miller
Miss
Violet
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New
10 at
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The sun., 1918-08-25

} be-
louise
In or
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York
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Mr..
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Mrs
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1918-05-06
Vanishing of CyclOps
Still MystiGes Experts

An Atlantic Port, May 6.-All
naval experts have been mystified by
the disappearance of the collier Cy-
clops, according to Lieutenant Com
mander W. H. Booth, u s. N, who
arrived here yesterday on q British
steamship from South American
ports. He said:
while the Cyclops carried a
heavy cargo of manganese, a power
ful explosive, the manganese would
not have exploded by itself. And If
it did, there would have been time
to send out wireless call. The ship
would not have sunk in a minute.
And wireless calls, if sent, could not
have been missed.
mot a sign of wreckage has bcen
found to indicate that the vessel
went dDwn. 1t has simply van
ished."