Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1918-12-24
BY ANNE RITTENHoUSE.
Special Correspondence of The Star.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK, December 23.-The
straight. high collar is unbecomtng.
1t is not really suited to the Anglo
Saxon face. 1t is an admirable part
of French apparel because the small
neck. the slim, pointed chin and the
delicate oval of the Gallo face per-
nit the material to be drawn up to
the chin.
The Anglo-Saxon is at her best with
her neck uncovered. 1t is a particu-
lar habit of the British women to cut
out their gowns, and they stick to
this fashion, even when the American
falters and stumbles backward into
the French path.
Long, long ago. it decided that the
tight, choker collar of white net, with
its bones at sides and back, was
about the most unattractive bit OF
neck covering that woman could
wear. The only type of face that it
ton, the neck in keeping with the
face. The average American face with
it's tendency to flesh over the broad
jaws and it's round, almost classic
neck, rebelled against the confine-
ment of a boned collar and took it's
thick line at the chin and jaw that
the contour of the face was entirely
marred. 1t was made heavy and
coarSened.
Collars That Have Ruled.
After the choker of white net was
discarded. every type of woman took
up the open neck, and it has ruled
without disapproval since. There are
necks with collars and those with
out. and many changes have been
rung on these two minor fashions.
There has also been a continuous
change in the fashion of wearing a
collar inside or outside the coat. Last
year, for instance, we pulled the col
lars of our blouses out over our coats
or we covered the lapels of the coat
with wide pique collars that reach ed
nearly to the waist. Today we do
neither. 1t has not been considered
garment.
No sooner have women given them
selves up to this fashion than the eX-
elusive dressmakers bring back
berthas and fiat collars of precious
lace and batiste, hand embroidered
What is known as the lingerie collar
has also come back into high fashion
1t is made by skilled fingers and re-
sembles that fine work of three dec
AIDES ago, when a woman was sup
posed to know how to whip, and puff
and roll material.
Now, when all of this seems to have
been settled, there leaps into the pic
ture a new fashion which calls for E
! high collar, a kind that we know
nothing about, for it has not appeared
in the fashions before. 1t is muffier
the same kind of thing that is worr
for skating, for motoring and for colo
weather in the country. 1t is muff1el
de luxe.
The sketch shows a frock with the
new muller collar. 1T is a small edi.
ton of the kind that was invented fol
a black velvet coat earlier in the sea.
son. The frock itself is of COLDER
brown velour and hugs the figure like
a sweater. The skirt has slight full
ness. and it's two deep pockets, which
are placed on the hips, are outlined
with bands of gray angora. The long
tight sleeves have a wristband Of gray
angora which runs up the back of the
arm to the elbow.
Then comes the collar. 1t is also OF
gray angora, it hugs the neck in a
soft, Wrinkled line, it is fastened or
the left side with two tortoise shell
buckles handsomely carved, and il
falls in one long streamer to the hem
of the skirt, where it is. finished with
fringe.
When the girl who wore this gown
failed to remove the muffler as she
started in on her tea and cakes, Curl