davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

TT Is a long cry from Henry II. to-
Cromwell, but fashion Jumps that
= length in seven leagued boots and
regards 1t a triAe. Fashion. indeed,
places the two periods Of the worlds
history together without apology. She
takes a bit from one and a slice from
the other and calls II a frock.
History has been ransacked for
three years for inspiration. strange to
record, when one realizes that a few
decades from now fashion will prob
ably start to register the impressions
of these days. and throughout all the
ages to come, If there are such things
as fashions for women, those who
build them will go to this era OF world
war as an aid to faded brains.
Possibly Napoleon was sufficiently
an egotist to foresee that the period
he created in the worlds progress
would last the fashion designers at
least a hundred years, as II has done
None of the designers has gone far
from the Napoleonlc era, and .heir
apology is that inspiration was drawn
from every source during the reign Of
this one man. and that 1t would be
difficult to find something which mad
been omitted.
1t was a long cry then from the
Tanagra fgurine through successive
stages of clothes to the costumes a
lEcossaise, which were swirled in at
the end of the Emperor's sway, and
which were suggested by the great
Caledonisn bail given IN London, at
which the men and women OF Scot
land wore their plaids, at which the
chieftains did the Highland fling and
Continental society looked on as at q
war dance Of the American Indians.
Not From Original Source.
Truly there was not-much that was
untouched in fashion during that span
OF history in France. And whatever
the designers have done these days
has usually been copied from its re-
incarnation in the Napoleon!c era and
not from the original source.
There are certain phases Of fashion
of this time, however. that were more
ancient and primitive than the Ma
poleonic era adopted. These are Peru
Wan, American Indian. Japanese and
NhillNSC. We o4So AAehNC SUM- DoNh "
well defined periods Of medieval his
tory that such women as Josephine.
Nine. Recamier and Nine. Tallien
cared little for and would not have
tolerated unless they were arranged
with less decency than We use them
to-day.
One historian Of fashions says that
France in those days, like Rome. ap-
propriated from the vanquished all It
considered worth the taking. But II
took, as q rule, that which was pres
ent and not that which was past
There was once time In the begin
ming of the Consulate when fashion
in Paris was turned toward the an
c!ent enemy across the Channel and
borrowed ideas for dress. This was
Gone in a spirit OF perversity. but the
Paris designers now turn there in a
different spirit-one of intense graft
tude and friendliness. Later she may
remember Mesopotamia and Palestine,
and linking them to Allenby and Mar
shall swirl back 10 Holy Land cos
a., tumery.
Cromwell Idea Is Strange.
At the moment she is interested in
eras of which she has thought little
and cared less. II seems a strange
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

cannot be objected 20 by conservatives,
even in the hip drapery whose swath-
ings are the sign and symool OF the
Eastern dancers.
There Is a tendency to combine
colored satin with black thread lace in
the Oriental frocks which takes away
the suggestion OF the East except in
the swirl OF fabric that goes about the
hips. The lace is caught in front with
a great plaque OF jewelled embroidery
and the entire frock suggests a new
use for old lace to those who have
pieces OF II stored away.
BY this time it is quite apparent to
even the casual observer that old lace
has come into its own again ana that
there ia revulsion OF feeling against
the severe neck line except by women
who know they look extremely well
in such severity. 1t is not especially
trying when the decolletage is square,
but when round or V shaped II take
a woman with remarkably regular
features 10 carry II off. This refers
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

ualist; the average woman accepts the
straight line, the cord girdle, often the
fastening in the back. but inserts q
long tight sleeve.
Not that the sleeve Ia unknown to
present fame; It Is so often worn that
the designers have created under
fashion to fill In the hiatus between
its hem and the wrist, but as q rule
It Is put on another kind OF frock.
The strong difference between now
and then Is that the brown velveteen
and its many followers are much mar
rover than the loose frock worn In
the twelfth century.
Those were severe fashions when
Cromwell interrupted the pleasure
loving Stuarts. Some one has said that
when Charles II. came to the throne
England with a sigh of relief laid aside
her hair skirt to show that she wore q
silk one beneath.
On the outside she was Puritanical,
however, for fashions have and will
always reflect history and the char
acter OF those who govern. And yet
tho designers have found a good field
Tor 6artOrla adventure, II seems, IN
English costumery OF that epoch.
Signs of the Old Times.
Just recently there have appeared
several sorts with battlemented hens.
a strong sign Of those times, and q
double row OF buttons on each side OF
long straight front opening. The
wide linen collar and cuffs are added,
and one sees that 1t Is a new fashion.
Not SO new but equally Cromwellian
Is the sleeveless blouse or short tunic
that our shops sell as casually as they
once did the American shtrtwaist.
These also were hattlemented at the
hem, which ours are not, but they
also showed the full sleeves OF the
shirt beneath. In those days the man
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
Hints of Fashion From Many Sources

on n smart dinner and theatre hat
made with a foundation Of chiffon
velvet drawn tight and smooth over
the mushroom frame Then there is a
frlll OF black Chantilly lace standing
upright about the crown and another
that spreads out beyond the edge Of
the br,m. The two frills of lace are
Joined by a band Of sable with two
little crossed tail ends.
Long floating sleeves Of tulle are
held down AZ the point with a dan
Cling tasSel of heavy Jet beads. THIS
treatment gives dignity to an other
wise rather light and floating sleeve
arrangement in velvet evening
frock.
Darts are not an unknown feature
of the frock OF the moment However.
darts nowadays are not used to en-
phasize the pInched in waist, but
rather TO shape the fabric at the
shoulders and bust
Fluted ribbon brms are a part OF
some OF the new hats. The crowns ar
of fur, OF velvet or Of beaver. and tho
hrins are rather narrow. formed Of a
row OF flu,od velvet r'haon heIvy
enough TO stand st.N and firm.
Some Of the new. long tight sleeves
are buttonod as far as the elbow.
Some OF the new velvet suits show
vests OF fur Of the shorter sorts, llk,
squirrel or beaver, that button or fas-
ten tight under tho chin.
Shops are showing heavy silk
sweaters for winter wear. They are
especially desirable for indoor wear
when the low supply Of coal makes
It impossible 10 keep up the norma
degree Of heat These new sweater
have II any odd bits of finishing. su.}
as vcs,s, deep Collats frnged edge.
and unusual cuffs-anything for IN,
! sake OF novelty.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

/ the shape Of long slim wafer. out
lined with a line OF colored trimming.
1t was this neck line that was indie
alive OF the costumery during the
reign OF three British kings, William
H., Henry II. and Stephen. II is now
incorporated as part OF our everyday
costumery with hardly thought OF its
connection with the long ago Queen
who went from the city with the ter
rible fate that every American school
child will know OF as long as learning
lasts, and that every mother and wife
here to-day vaguely connects with the
reason that her man Is over there.
Sleeves Left to Individual.
The hanging sleeve which should by
right of history be worn with this type
OF gown has been left to the indlvid-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

10 day frocks. There is no attempt 20
relieve the neck lire Of evening GOWNS
when they are deeply dcCo.la;e. as
the bodice is rarely Of heavy or
Opaque material.
New Afternoon Frocll Wins.
The introduction OF an afternoon
fruck with a deep l. shaped deCol-
letaEe half filled in with tucker OF
lace and outlined with a Hat ruiie O;
lace has met with sufficient popularity
to insure \ reasonable measure of sue
cess.
Against this judgment there are a
host Of DIRECTORS who insist that the
severe neck line is smart and that the
other is out OF the picture, but as soon
as enough we'll dressed women adopt
the advancing method. then she who
is out OF the picture Will be in II. It
Is merely question of the eye.
II was quite surprising TO see how
quickly, for instance, women put their
shirt waist collars inside the neck Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

whose frivoiity Is historically foreign
to Paris memories.
The Cromwellian inspiration Is new;
the revival Of those fashions which
were adopted before the word had any
significance when Henry l. was King
OF England. In looking over a book
of old costumery the similarity shown
between the frocks of then and now is
startling. us this as far as we have
gone in dress?' is the exclamation
that comes first.
There IS brown ve,veteen frock OF
this season, as an example of this sim
ilarity, which was created in Paris and
has been widely exploited in this
country which could 60 into history
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
Made NoWIs Best for Christmas

and cooked for two hours and then
turned into an earthen crock.
Tho beauty OF mincemeat is that
he goodness all depends on the palate
n the one who makes ii. 1t is never
too late TO add a little more Of this
ingredient or that.
Some Things Missing Now,
In this recipe the cardied lemon and
orange peel are omitted with saugfac-
tory results, because white sugar is
REQUIRED II they are used. Likewise
some recipes give a little lemon Juice
and orange Juice, but as these fruits
are extremely high priced this year
i is an omission that can we'll be
made in the cause OF war time thrift.
Brandy and sherry formerly had a
prominent place in mincemeat, but
perhaps we can forego the flavor added
in that way this year, when even our
cooking has gone dry" and the
harmless bottle Of cooking sherry thai
sometimes used TO be cnthrOned on the
shelves, where ne'er a drop was ever
slipped, has gone tho way Of other
Injuries Of peace. largely because Of
its high price.
Old time cooks used to make their
mincemeat up after some standard
recipe and then leave the crock in
. convenient place, well covered with
an earthen cover. Then as oppor-
tunity afforded they would add to Il.
Perhaps to-day they would have the
rich Juice left over from a jar OF
branded DpaCles tO-urOrr9u a feu,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
? OF must make your own mince-
meat this year. OF late years
nerhans Won hava heen huyinR

meat this year. OF late years
perhaps you have been buying
Il in little tin cans. but now no one
buys anything in tins that she can
possibly make for herself.
Don't imagine that you need go
without this time honored adjunct of
the Christmas dinner, however. If
you glance through any mincemeat
recipe you will see that though fairly
expensive in ingredients and what the
old time housewife would call rich, it
is not rich in the ingredients that
would make it unpatriotic And with
a little clever substitution 1t can be
made as good war time dish as
johnnycake or corn dodger.
Mlnce pies are really sacred to
Christmas. and it has been through
rather natural running together of our
ideas Of Thanksgiving and Christmas
that we have sometimes had them on
the first occasion as well as at Christ
mas. But in these days we don't in
dulge in more sweets than we really
crave, and surely one kind OF pie Is
enough.
So il is the wise housewife who has
reserved minco pie til after Thanks
giving. Make a good batch OF
mincemeat now. mellow II till your
Christmas baking and then leave II on
hand to make into pies for desserts
occasionally during the cold weeks
that follow Christmas.
Here's HOOverizcd Mincemeat.
Here is n Hooverizcd recipe for you
II you have well tried recipe OF your
own perhaps it Is better to stick to
that, substituting corn syrup for AL
most all the sugar and lessen!ng the
quantities OF meat used. This one,
however, is excellent:
Two pounds Of lean beef finely
chopped, two pounds OF suet also
finely chopped. a quart Of corn
syrup, scant pound Of sugar, three
or four quarts Of firm and tart ap-
pies finely chopped three pounds Of
chopped seeded ralsins, three pounds
OF finely chopped Cltron, two pounds
or currants, two teaspoons Of salt,
q Thp of strong coffee two cups OF
h''led cider, one teaspoon Of cloves,
one teaspoon OF allsplce, two tea
spoons OF cinnamon, and II you have
cup OF currant Jelly. All these
ingredients should be put together
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
Other Ancient British Styles Also Being Adapted Mod
e1 Dress by Versatile Dressmakers the Seine With
Surprisingly Good Results-Some Striking Examples

as a sketch Of a gown worn by the
women at the court of Henry.
Well, his Queen came from Louvain.
Possibly Just there is the reason for
the revival Of that especial gown: It is
In a straight line from neck to heels
II Is loosely girdled with ornamental
cord going twice about the waist. and
the slight decolletage In front IS in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

thing that the temperamental design
RS of Paris should revive the fashions
IF Cromwell. Curious juxtaposition Of
IDEAS. None has ever arisen in French
history who could be likened to this
Puritan, and we may find the reason
for this singular recrudescence In the
pleasant fact that Cromwell was sand
wiched between the Two Charleses
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
Then your mincemeat will becom
real war time dish.
Fresh Baked Pies the Best.

real war time dish.
Fresh Baked Pies the Best.
Now here Is a suggestion for baking
| the mlnce pie. Don't bake up q batch
of the pies and then keep them on
hand a week. They are not so good to
taste and far less wholesome that
way. They are best when fairly fresh,
but not piping hot The mincemeat
itself may be kept on hand for weeks
even months. in cool place, but once
baked the crust becomes soaked, and
1t is far from wholesome if allowed
TO stand many hours.
Many persons bake the pies with
lower crust only and criss crossings of
pastry for the upper crust Others use
plain pastry for the bottom crust and
puff pastry for the top covering.
Mock Miucement PaIatabIe.
Mock mincemeat," as It is called
by the Food Administration. Is not
something that was invented specially
TO meet the demands of the war. for 4
3 really no more or less than the
green tomato minCemcat that old
fashioned country cooks have long
made. They refer to the pies when
made as tomato pies. Here is the
recipe as given by the Food Admin
istration In a recent pamphlet:
Three pounds sailed green toma-
toes, two pounds apples. one cup
chopped suet, two cups molasses.
one cup corn syrup, one pound
ra!s!ns, one cup vinegar, one tea
spoon cloves, two tablespoons cinna-
mon one teaspoon allspice, one tea
spoon nutmeg. Soak the tomatoes
for two hours and chop them fine.
Chop the apples. Add the other In
Frs dents and cook the mixture
until 1t Is thick. This mincemcat
Will keep for some time in a covered
jar.
II IS especially given in this PAM
ph!et as one OF the ways In which 10 use
sailed green tomatoes. They are made
BY packing well washed tomatoes in a
container, covering them with 10
per cent. brine covering them and
weFhting them down on top. II is
best 10 cover them with a layer Of
grape, horseradish or Swiss chard
leaves and to weigh them down with
large clean stone resting on an in
vertad plate.
II you have any sailed green toma-
toes you will find this an excellent
way to use them.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
\ spite Of the fact that some Of tbs

\ spite or the faCt that some or the
newest frocks have no white at
the throat, and that others favor
the rounded neck, with lace and a
tucker, others feature a white satin
collar that is high at the neck and thai
extends in the front over the bodice to
the waist line.
Elaborate evening frocks are not be
ing much worn this year. but are oC-
casioral,y called for, Then the train
g. sometimes seen. II Is sometimes
separate from the frock, harg!as Ia d
panel from the waist or even from the
shoulders.
Sometimes the only trimming on a
velvet frock is a bit OF bead embro!d-
cry with dependent tassel. This Is
usually placed at one side OF the front,
low down on the bodice.
Many of the best OF the new frocks
81 serge are trimmed horizontally
This In spite OF the fact that every
other effort Is made TO emphasize the
narrow ankle line. These frucks have
b'iIuS VI DIdll UT sOIutllHleS OF StIlntl
fabric, running about the bottom Of
the skirt, and similar bands on sleeves
and bodice or vest.
You can buy tassels for trimming
bags and frocks and blouses at home
There are lovely ones, of all colors OF
silk thread. for go cents each in a
three or four inch length. There are
huge ones OF chenille for several dol
lars. And between these there are
others OF all sorts and all prices, some
OF them distlnctively beaded, some OF
them with an intermixture OF metallic
threads.
Black satin evening slippers have
long jet beads fastened around the tor
in rows, three OF them. Then there
IL an embroidered design OF beads al
the toes.
Lace and fur ara cleyerly combined
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

chose the under shirt in broad yellow
and red barred stripes.
AS We wear this other coat the bat
tIemented one with long sleeves, fas-
tened at the neck, but not below, the
effect is good. 1t provides a variant
from the accepted styles OF jackets.
II Is be,tless, which is a fashion the
French designers are striving hard TO
establish. The slim lines of this coat
keep the widths from awkwardress
and the small armholes aid the clean
cut look
1t may be a happy fact, one that
gives cause for rejoicing. that de-
signers have no objection 10 bunch
ing" the countries when IL comes 20
fashions. To put the Oriental hip
drapery alongside the coat Of Cromwell
and the chemise Of Adele OF Louva!n as
legitimate business.
Ale we'll that once looked well,
might be their motto. and they go on
making sartorial Tower OF Babel, for
If n costume could speak this is what
would happen in any representative
gathering. The Orient /, always too
seductive, too easy OF imitation, 10
escape constant usage; there may
have teen periods in social history
when II would not have been possible
10 persuade well placed women 10
appear IN the clothes OF the temple
girls and those OF the bazaars, but
we don't happen to belong to one OF
tbam
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
PARIS DESIGNERS REVIVE FASHIONS OF CRON1WELLS

appeared from blouses almost ovs-
night. and the long collar may rivs
way to the Cromwell and stuar, kInS
before Christmas.
The stole Of fur is again the sty,s
in Paris. the cables say, and here tbs
coachman's collar has taken the plscs
Of the fox on Jackets and many cloth
blouseS
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01
what Cabot Has Done,

what Cabot Has Done,
When Cabot sent TO this coY,.r,
those primitive garments without b.l,
or curve, cut straight from two pieces
OF cloth. or so It appeared, and sew,d
up at each side, women simply u.ter.a
an emphatic negative and passed them
by. Even that little group Of extrsm.
lists which can be depended on to b.,
out everything once at least were too
doubtful Of this experiment 10 pa
money in It. And yet here (, IS Green.
ing in among all the best gowns from
important houses and is promised "a
the ruling contour for spring.
Cheruit was not long behind Gallo.
in introducing that squarenesS IT.
jackets from that house, and also fror.
the house Of Doucet, were remarkabls
to the average American eyes las
October when the importers showed
them here. but this month we are BE-
ginning to talk about boxlike outlines
as II we knew from the beginning tina.
they would succeed and were ths,-
prophets and disciples
The squareness is more percep.fb's
in the new Jackets than in the skirts.
There is not the shadow Of sugse,-
ton OF q curve over the chest or a.
the waist in Cheruit's Jackets and the,
end at the hips. II Callo;'s frocks n
line does not break until Il reaches
the knees, where Il begins to slop.
inward toward the ankles.
Waist Size of No Moment
If this silhouette prevails by tAa
opening OF the new year We need no.:
longer despair over the large d!rnen-
sions OF the average waist measure
ment to-day; It is to be hidden so con-
pletely that twenty inches or tcrty
will look much the same under the
boxlike contour.
The large woman viii not accept thi
fashion in an exaggerated form, Of thai
one may be sure; maybe she is r!gh
in Directing to it, but there IS an &C
cepted adage among those who make
clothes that 1t is often better 70 az
centuate than to attempt TO conceal q
defect.
II is true that women who have
risen to heights in their costumes have
been those who played up their weH
points. The thin have looked enact
ated. the broad have looked Ike Bu-re-
Jones women, the gray haired have
powdered it until the Colonial Wig Vas
suggested, those with long feet have
Worn the pointed shoes Of the Twelfth
century. those with long thin arm
have wrapped them with fabric TIA:
reached to the finger tips.
II is a new theory OF dress ore ma.
would have shocked the preceth-
generation who gave is best though;
to the conceal!ng OF physical de:ec:s
and the enhancement Of whateve'
physical charms there were.
II is fascinating, this new theory !:
Is a chapter TO be written by the dress
historian who does not have 20 NEE:
the dressing demands OF writing "s
hours fashion. no matter how t."
psychology and the mental changes
| beckon.
II might be called the hravado o. Re
modern woman.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

Sedateness has entered into cos
tumery during the lat two years OF
this warfare, but now when victory is
on the lips of all we may see return
TO license In costumery that may
make pre-war fashions appear anm-
mic. Let MS hope that joy won't be
too unConfined.
If there is a pleasing sedateness
with freedom from occurrences and
DARKNESS then we will see good cos
tunes. Already there is a gracious
way of employing Oricntalism which
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

Gown of sweet-gum colored
velours showing the square
contour. The back of the skirt
is pleated, the front plain. I'm
der the square bodice there is a
sash of Indian red crepe.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

Black satin evening slippers have
long jet beads fastened around the top
in rows, three OF them. Then there
Is an embroidered design OF beads at
the toes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

Lace and fur are cleverly combined
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, 1918-12-01

Sometimes the only trimming on a
velvet frock is a bit Of bead embro!d-
cry with a dependent tassel. This IS
usually placed at one side OF the from;
low down on the bodice.