davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

The satin in this frock is arranged as
a redingote to show wide front
panel Of biscut-colored Qeorqette
boldly embroidered In black. The
sleeves are short, and the scarf 10
attached to the frock.
may be on the Italian model, or 1t may
be on the American Colonial model.
which brings the material high and
! tight against the back and side Of the
neck and then dips it down to deep
square or delta in front.
The introduction of the high collar
seems to have come about through ne
cessity rather than choice or inclina-
ton. True, there are smart women
who insist that their one-piece frocks
shall have these outstanding, flower
like collars that rise on the stem of
the neck and open out wide to envelop
the chin and the back of the head. but
the majority of women have adopted
high collars only with coat suits. They
don't know any other kinds of collar
to adjust with jacket that is high In
the neck and has rolling revers.
They find that the wash blouse,
which has a high turnover collar and
is worn with cravat of black or col
ored spicot ribbon, gives Nust the right
silhouette to the necklne of an every
day coat suit. If this high collar cam
not be adopted, then low one must
be worn with the suit, because of its
collarless condition.
Strength of Surplice Jacket.
The lessened number of chiffon
blouses shown this summer is indica-
| tive of the lessened number of tailored
suits worn, so the workers claim. 1t
| is true that the shops are filed with
wash blouses, which are always in de-
mand for many reasons. However,
there is a large segment of Anglo
Saxon women who will not forsake the
coat and skirt. and they will cling to
! it, If not for humane reasons, in order
| to give men work, then for personal
reasons. 1t is our uniform, and we
know how to wear it. We are not
nearly so sure of the one-piece frocks
as we are of the well-cut, well-sewed
/ tudt anu Skill. II is lutllt,
to speak of its abolition while this
strong feeling of approval exists for it
in this country, as in England And
because of this condition 1t is well for
women TO realize that the buttonless
jacket, or the surplice kind, is the one
preferred.
One might deds.ct. in looking at these
surplice jackets, chemise robes, Slip
overwhelmed tunics and Callot
mummy gowns, that it is buttonless
era. We are to be tied into our
clothes from now on. In truth, those
startling Cabot frocks for afternoon
and evening, which strike the only
really new note since 1915, give one
a quick memory of the ludicrous COS
tunes of those who took part in pic
mic days, hopping along in coffee
sacks tied at the feet, through lane
of cheering. excited pleasure seekers.
Copyright. 1918, by the Mcclure Newspa-
| per Syndicate)
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

HERE are several passes OF
some celebrity connecting the
east and west sides of Glacier
National park across the Con-
tinental divide. All of them pass
through scenery OF much splendor. All
of them command views on both sides
which are among the great views Of
America. Three of these passes are
in actual use; trails will be built across
others when the public demand war
rants.
The most celebrated Of the passes
in actual use is Gunsight pass. From
the east 1t is reached directly from
st. Mary lake, and by way Of Plegan
pass, from Lake McDermott. From
the west it Is reached from Lake Nc
Donald the trail passing the cele-
brated Sperry glacier. The pass Is
U-shaped notch in the divide hang
sight mountain and Mount Jackson
Just west Of it lies Lake Ellen Wilson.
one of Glaciers greatest celebrities for
beauty. Just east of 1t lies Gunsight
| lake, one of Glaciers greatest celebri-
ties for wildness. At the foot of
Gunsight lake an easy trail of two
miles leads to the Blackfeet glacier,
the largest in the park, the west lobe
of which is readily reached and pre-
/ sents, within less than a mile OF ice,
an admirable study Of practically all
the phenomena Of living glaciers.
Swiftcurrent pass crosses the Con-
tinental divide from Lake McDermott
on the east; on the west side, one
trail leads north to the Waterton lakes
md Canada, another south to Lake Nc
Donald. -Four beautiful shelf glaciers
may be seen from. the east side Of this
pass, and from the crest Of the pass
looking back east, magnificent view
is had of the lake-studded Swiftcur
rent valley.
Glacier Peak chalet, which stand
on a lofty shelf just west Of the pass
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

Is the principal objective for the thou.
sands who travel this trail from Lake
McDermott. 1t commands a gorgeous
view of the great central valley, bor'
dered with monster mountains, which
leads north into Canada. From the
chalet a horse trail now building will
soon cross the divide back again
through Logan pass. A foot trail
leads from the chalet to the top Of the
Garden Wall directly overlooking the
Swiftcurrent and Grinnell glaciers.
Another foot trail, involving an hours
steady climb, leads to the summit Of
Swiftcurrent mountain, from which
one looks upon complete circle Of SUI
preme view, including all Of Glacier
National park and generous glimpses
of the Canadian mountains on the
north, the great plains on the east,
and the Rocky mountains on the south
and west.
Brown Pass VIII Be Popular.
Brown pass, the trail over which
has been little improved since the old
game days because so few persons use
1t, II destined to become one of the
most celebrated passes in America.
From the east side the trail leads from
Waterton lake up Olson valley, amid
scenery as sensational as 1t is unusual,
skirting lakes of individuality and I'M
usual beauty even for Glacier National
! park, and enters, at the pass, the
amazingly wild and beautiful cirques
at the head of Bowman lake. Here
is disclosed some of the widest seen
cry in the world. From the top of the
pass, one trail drops down to Bowman
lake, which it follows to its outlet ant
thence to a junction with the Flatheat
river road, over which the travele
reaches Lake Mcdonald.
A second lake Is planned to be bull
this summer to connect Brown pass
across sensational submits, with tn
wonderful cirques at the head Of Kin
la valley.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12
THE GRIZZLY PASSED ON
After Viewing the Preparations Of
the Elk Herd, He Sought Dinner
Elsewhere.

"While we camped at $500 feet
altitude near the head of Fawn creek
In the Gallatin range Of the north
western part of the Yellowstone Ma
'tional park" writes Vernon Bailey
chief field naturalist of the United
States biological survey in book
soon tor be issued by the national
park service, 81 could make out with
a field glass elk herds on the high
ridges south, west, and north of the
camp. BY climbing cautiously, so
as not to distrub the elk, up to 10000
feet on Quadrant mountain south of
camp / was soon in the midst of one
of their choice summer ranges.
"Small herds and Scattered individ-
uals were seen over the big, open
slopes above timber-line; lunches of
old bulls with full-grown velvety
where the wind was strongest and
insects less troublesome; calves and
yearlings playing over great snow
banks on the cold slopes; and COWS
peacefully lying in meadows of rich,
short grass and clover. Little streams
and pools of ice-cold water were
everywhere and the elk were a pic
ture of contentment and satisfaction
with their ideal summer home.
"After watching them for about an
hour q large grizzly bear that had
been digging mice on neighboring
slope was seen walking across to.
ward the elk. AS he came in view
their heads went up and the herds
near me gathered into one dense
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

Our entire modern civilization rests
on coal and its ally, petroleum. These
are the principal sources of mechan-
ical energy. The scientific method has
at least that new sources of energy
might be tapped. Power might mag
inahly be gotten directly from the sun.
1t might become practical to use the
motion of the sea and the wind.
Chemistry might discover something
remotely akin to radium which would
do mans work. But without epochal
discoveries and inventions the 'Torld
as we now know 1t Is indissolubly de-
pendent upon coal
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12
Looking North From Summit of swiftcurrent Pass.

mass of about 800, old and young,
while the bear walked past close in
front of them and on over the ridge,
scarcely turning his head to notice
them. The herd was a beautiful
sight, 25 or 80 old bulls with sets of
large horns towering above the nu-
merous small sets. while the front
ranks were mainly filled with anx-
ious cows ready to give battle for the
protection Of their young. When the
bear had disappeared they quietly
dispersed to their grazing and seemed
very little concerned"
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12
Neckline Given
Drastic Change

New York.-The world that amuses
or instructs itself by watching the
changes In dress finds itself highly
diverted in the month of May. This
is the time for settlement. February
Is full Of rumors and cables from
Paris concerning the gowns that are
exploited there by the dressmakers.
During the month of March the
clothes that arrive In America are
shown first by the importers, who
cater to the dressmakers, then by the
dressmakers and shops, who cater to
the public. After the first week Of
April the public takes hand In the
settlement Of fashions and wears it's
new spring clothes at all hours, with
reckless productivity.
Now, asserts leading fashion au-
thority, we come to the month Of OBJ
servntion. We see what has failed
and what has succeeded. We know
what the public likes and what 1t has
discarded.
Established Necklne.
In the settlement Of fashions which
comes this month there Is one FREEDOM
inant feature that interests the ma
jority as well as the minority. 1t Is
the new arrangement Of the neckline.
This style has been creeping on us
unawares since January, but 1t seems
to have sprung out of ambush and at
tackled the people as the warm wealth
er burst over the land.
Those who were not observing fash
| ion closely went about with their
shirtwaist collars pulled out over the
coat collars, or the wide collars of
guimpes pulled out over the bare edge
of one-piece frock.
Then, suddenly, the whole process
seemed to be wrong. The careless
public observed that the fastidious
crowd had abandoned white coat col
lars. They also noticed that the neck
line Of a one-piece frock was not out
lined by collar except at the back.
They noticed that sailor collars had
disappeared from fashionable. gar
ments. They realized that the neck
line, instead Of being V-shaped, was
square and deeply decollete, or delta
shaped-the decolletage that we asso-
ciate with Dresden shepherdesses
Dolly Warden styles, Mozartian opera
and Janice Meredith. This kind OF
neckline was accepted only for frocks
it-spould go without saying that 1t was
not contemplated for coats.
But whatever the garment, it's neck
line was no more hidden and envel
oped by q white collar. 1t is quit,
probable that this somersault In fash
ions disturbed the minds of NOR
women than even the incoming Of tn
; tight skirt, for 1t necessltated though
and an entire change in the arrang,
, ment of the garments which hay
been carelessly worn in the same con
bination for several seasons. 1t mao
one go into numerous shops and r
\ gard ones self for numerous momen
! before mirrors in order to secure
satisfactory adjustment OF the ne
fashion to ones neck and face.
High Collar on Coat Suits
And another movement In the a
rangement of the neck is disquietin
1t is the Introduction Of the high co
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

the rough material from resting
against the skin.
Another feature of the new neck ar.
rangement which 1t is we'll to absorb
into the mind is that the blouse with
the Italian decolletage is the best to
wear under all coats. 1t is wis'r to
avoid superimposing one collar on an
other. This Italian neckline may be
round, or straight across the shoulders,
or brought to the base of the neck.
The wearer must decide on that. Her
features should determine the exact
curve which is employed.
Low Neck for Day Usage.
Another interesting detail of fashion
Is the definite tendency toward deep
decollete for day usage. The neckline
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

lar at an hour when the high fashion
designers decided to discard it, and
the public was informed that 1t was
no longer in first fashion. No sooner
had this edict gone out and been ac-
cepted than vast number of women
-weIl-dressed women, too-appeared
with high loose collar, that either en-
veloped the chin or rolled in loose
fold beneath 1T.
There are two or three practical
thinga that every woman must some
how manage to master in this new
fashion If she intends to look her best
during the warm-weather season.
One of them is that coat suit re-
quires some kind Of collar at the back
and sides of the neckline, to prevent
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

Black satin is charmingly decorated
with white crystal beads.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

TN HERE are several passes Of
some celebrity connecting the
east and west sides of Glacier
No orly tho
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1918-07-12

And another movement In the ar
of the neck is disquieting.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
Woman Conductor Does
Interesting Dance on Her
Street Car; Is Fined $40

NEW YORK, June 2o.-Be-
cause. II was alleged. she did .
skirt dance and used profane Ian
EuAge on q Brooklyn trolley car
early on the morning OF June 5,
Mrs. Josephine Smith, Of 14s Pal
metto street, q woman conductor.
was fined $40 or ten days in pris-
on by Magistrate Short In the
New Jersey avenue court, Brook
Ign. Her companion, Herman
Muller, Of 1927 Green avenue,
was given the same sentence.
Magistrate Short had intended
sentencing the woman to thirty
days In fail, but her husband
pleaded with the magistrate, say
ing he had been married sixteen
years and Mrs. Smith had always
been a dutiful wife. Mullers
santsnce was made light because
he win soon be drafted.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
MADE IN
VANDERBILT WILL
EXCEED FORTUNE

NEW YORK, June 2o.--Benehci-
aries under the will OF the late
George Washington Vanderbilt. in
GLIDING his widow. today face the
necessity OF submitting to a reduc'
ton in their legacies.
Tho appraisers have just filed here
papers showing that the estate is not
sufficient to meet the requests pro-
vided In the will. The estate. as APP
praised, was exclusive OF his Fillmore
IN. c. estate, real estate IN Bar Har-
Dor, and a winter home in Washing
ton, D. c.
The gross estate was placed at
f1.3I4.s52, which was reduced by
debts 20 $s29.lIO. The $685. be-
queathed to Mrs. Vanderbilt has been
cut TO 3178,4l2 by the appraisers.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
$1,000 GEMS STOLEN
FROM HOTEL SAFE

ATLANTA, Ga, June 20.-ofhcers
are today searching for jewelry VAL
usd at 81 200, stolen from an unlock
ed safe at the Imperial Hotel yester-
day. Police OF all large cities in the
southeast have been notified. Many
diamond rings, breast pins, brooches,
and necklaces belonging to the guests
are missing.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
S5OO,OOO,OOO Of
TAXES RENTED
TO THE TREASURY

Internal revenue collectors today
RENTED approximately f5O0,oOO,o0O
to the Treasury derived from income
and excess profits taxes. Returns
from these two sources so far have
Melted about 81 $50, 900. 900.
Payments on the third liberty loan
today reached $S.21S.000, 900, leaving
about $1,000, 900, 900 unpaid.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
STACKER IS KILLED.

ROME Ga, June 2O.-One man has
been killed and seven others taken
into custody in the mountains OF
Murray county, according to informa-
ton received here today, which told
of raids By Federal agents on hiding
places Of alleged deserters and slack.
ers. The dead mans name was given
as Charlie Baxter.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
GASSED BY BOCHE,
EEjUDGE WORKS
WITH AMBULANCE

PARIS. June 0-Alth0uEh gassed by
the Germans. Edward Wylie. a former
New York Judge, worked for' three days
without sleep. taking wounded Ameri-
cans TO the rear. meanwhile being under
continuous bombardment. II was learned
today from the American front.
WyIie and Harold Purdy, Of New York.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20

and Mark V. Brennan, Of Newark, N. J..
all ambulance drivers. have received the
following letter from General Pershing:
Il have heard with the greatest pleas
ure OF your fine conduct during the Pc
Rod IN which fighting occurred at -
The soldieriy qualities you exhibited on
this Occasion are admired throughout
the whole army"
The Washington times., 1918-06-20
HORSE JOINS BED cross.

SEATTLE, wash, June 2o.-The
life and services OF Duke will hence
forth be devoted TO the Red Gross.
Duke is . pet horse and because It's
owner. Frank Larson, had no money
to contribute to the Red Cross he
gave Duke. The animal was brought
duly receipted for.
The Washington times., 1918-06-20

Swift 4 Company's sales Of fresh beef in
washington, d. c, for the week ending
Saturday. June u. IllS, GgoFAgSd al oentS
Per pOund-AdVG
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
Food May Be Saved by Close
Watch Of Weather Forecasts

immense losses Of food products. oc-
casioned by freezing and other lnjurl-
Gus weather conditions. occur annually
that may. with proper precautions, be
avoided. This r. especially true Of
shipments BY rail during the winter
season. The weather bureau issues
forecasts daily. and special warnings
as occasion demands giving informa-
ton OF expected weather conditions. In
cluding trosts. cold waves. high winds
and heavy rains or snow. During the
winter season. officials In charge Of
nearly all weather bureau stations IL
sue daily what are known rs "Ship-
pers' Forecasts" giving the minimum
temperature expected 70 occure within
a shipping radius OF from "A TO 30
hours from the station. These fore
casts are published on postal cards.
Careful watch OF forecasts and
warnings will often enable shippers to
avoid losses. either by expediting or
delaying shipments or taking extra pre-
cautions to protect goods from injury.
No Shipment OF considerable length
should be made without FIRST ascertain
Ing the expected conditions over the
route. The occasion demands the ut
most care TO prevent losses Of fool not
only as a matter OF self-lnterest but as
patriotic duty.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
Culture Buttermilk More y
Beneficial as Drink; Has
More Of the Lactlc Acid

Culture buttermlik II more beneficial
as drink than the common variety.
according 70 G. T.. buchanan OF the
dairy department Of me Kansas State
Agricultural college. II Is more like
ly to be free from harmful bacteria.
and to contain more Of the tactic acid
which gives II Its hcaithful properties
Tactic acid bacteria are present In
the digestive tract and destroy other
bacteria which might prove Injurious
10 the body. The use OF buttermllk a.
a beverage Is one method OF lntroduc.
Ing more OF these lac;ic bacteria into
the system.
Whole or skim milk may be used TO
make culture buttermIlk. but usually
these are combined In equal parts. The
milk Is first subjected TO n temperature
OF $50 degrees for 30 minutes TO steri.
lie II. II IL then cooled to 20 de
grees and a small amount OF starter
Is added. The milk Is kept NJ this
temperature for ten or twelve hours
until the whole Is coagulated. After
wards Il Is beaten thoroughly or churn-
ed from three to Ave minutes and salt
, ed--one teaspoonful Of salt to each
gallon. The buttermIlk Is then cooled
TO 80 degrees. at which temperature Il
10 kept ready for use.
The starter Ia made from pure Tactic
acid culture obtained from the labora.
tories where II Is cultivated. The lao
tic acid bacteria are carried by means
OF sterillzcd milk powder made from
the dried casein OF milk.
A small quantity Of this powder Il
put Into a small bottle OF milk. which
soon coagulates. The curded milk "a
used In a new bottle Of milk the next
day and this process Is continued
through three or four propagations.
These preliminary propagntlons OF the
starter are necessary 10 eliminate the
peculiar taste OF the original powdered
milk culture.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
The capltsr, EInh Av,nu,.

Pennsylvania avenue In Washington
" usually listed among the worlds
famous streets. but TO the Washington
Ian this avenue has not half the i'm
portance and attractiveness Of y street.
the recognized parade ground Of the
fashionable on sunny afternoons. v
street In Washington n an institution
like the monument. the government
clerk and band concerts In the parks.
II dates back far enough 70 tar the
memory Of washlngton's few oldest In
habitants. but no records OF its origin
are filed In the city hall.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02

An net declaring war between the
Unlted Kingdom Of Great Britain and
ireland and the dependencies thereof
nnd the United States Of America was
rppr0ved by the president az 2 p. no.
June IS, 1912. The act was drawn up
By William Pinkney. then attorney
general Of the United States. II passed
the house June 4. 1912, 20 IN favor. 40
against, and passed the senate June
IT, 1872. yeas. 10; noes. Is.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
Responsibility on itsredItY.

The Oldest nations Invariably have
the most philosophers and learned
seers. This has been thought to be
due. observes a writer. to their great
er accumulation OF knowledge. but
this new theory places the RESPONSE
billy In large part upon heredlty-
the fact that men Of civilized nation
give their sons the mental equipment
OF civilization.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02

The Sunday school teacher had read
the Tad Psalm. "what do you think"
she asked a little boy. "the words
mean. I saw the prosperity Of the
wicked. For there are no bands In
their DEATH" The boy paused. and
then replied. "why, teacher. II means
that wicked men mustn't have mill
tnry funernls."
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
Rare Quality.

To be able 10 summon courage
enough TO acknowledge ones own
wrong-doing Is to be possessed Of quail
tiles that rnlse humanity to the plane
OF the angels. observes a writer. The
man who has this courage In the high
est degree cannot In the world be
singly counterpoIsed."
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
Little MarY Waa Anarx.

Mary was playing on the floor with
her doll. She couldn't get the doll 10
sit In n certain position she desired
and so she banged II on the floor with
graf Impotence and yelled Mt the top
Of her voice. II wish belonged TO Q
family that swepred."
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02

"ft Ia a shame the way that beauty
doctor Is selling those pretty girls gold
bricks"
Entirely legitimate business. He Is
merely grating peaches."-Dunee Adj
vertiser.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02
coreecss,'u,.

: what you Americans want 10 DO "A
- vale up"
We're swnke all right said Brcn-
enc Bob; '1casfwise we're awake here
IN e<imscn uuich. though we admit not
bein' very noisy. You know sometimes
IN wan that ain't sayin' q word h
playin' poker the hardesfs
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02

"Hm"-fhmed the man who wore
his socks outside his shoes. as he
threw his ray Of light over the con-
tents Of the cabinet. Rather a choice
array. An enthusiastic collector Of an
fiq5Ss silver. take It."
A-d he dld.-Judge.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1918-03-02

De Speed latter the splll)--The
agent lied to me about this car. He
said. There was a car that would
knock my eye out and II only knocked
SIX teeth out" IL s,.,,,~