davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1918-04-21
Medicine
and
Surgery
The Masculine Garb
An Indictment

~ dress as factor in i'll health is
made by DR.. Walter B. James
in "The Medical Record" DR.. James
rot only maintains that womans dress
is saner and more conducive to good
health than that of man, but he also
eriticises the customary army uniform
as perhaps the most unhygienic of the
many coverings with which modern man
decks himself.
Comparing the dress of man and
woman DR.. James says that there tis
little doubt, so far as health and BODY
yigor go, and leaving all other consid-
erations out of account, that the best
modern costume for men ever designed
by civilized people is the Highlander's
kilt, with its bare knees and thin trews
ut Is a familiar observation in almost
every family that most OF the colds occur
among the male members. There are few
families in which the father has not
preached into unwilling and entirely unre-
sponsive ears that women by their So
called irrational methods Of dress were
sisking their health and lives.
"Womens dress takes no note Of season.
time of the day, or climate
1.-THE question whether thin slippers or
high boots, thin stockings or openwork, a
cloth or chiffon dress, high neck with
feather boa and close fit wrists or low neck
and bare arms, fur or cloth hat or bare
headed-all of these questions are decided
solely by the occasion and never by the
season or the weather The fact is it is
familiar observation that women are su-
perior to weather, while men are its slaves
"In spite of the claimed absurdness of
women's dress, colds and catarrhs are for
the most part maladies of the other sex, and
pneumonia and bronchitis are certainly no
less common, and indeed are probably
more common, in men than in women; that
in every family it is the men and not the
women who make whatever disagreeable
throat and nose noises are heard about the
house; and that the cuspidor is masculine
and not feminine. 1t is only necessary to
note the size and character of the womans
pocket handkerchief, as compared with the
mans and the woman's scanty need of it,
except rs a trinket, as compared with her
husbands slavish dependence upon it, to
convince one that as far as the upper res
piratory tract goes the so-called irrational
dress of women has few if any apologies
to make.
ut is by TO means a nationally thought
out desire for health that determines
women's dress, but purely desire for ad-
miraticn.
"It is chance, therefore, that has given to
modern women the healthiest of all cos
tunes, and It is to be hoped that apsh imi-
tation &C men will not lead the other sex
to adopt their irrational and unhygienic
mode of dress"
New-York tribune., 1918-04-21
OF THE army uniform DR.. James
SAYS:

SAYS:
Nowhere is the irrational in dress more
striking than in military life. In private
life, excepting for fashion and modern po-
lice requirements, every man is at liberty
70 dress he wishes. In the army his
dress is determined for him without any
choice on his part 1t might therefore be
thought that here broad view would be
taken Of the matter, and the plain teach
ings Of practical experience as we'll as the
dictates Of modern science would be given
consideration. Such, however, as far as
the civilian obaerver can see, has not been
the case Military tradition and a desire
to look different from other armies seem to
have been the determining factors.
"The chief points in the army uniform
that seem not to be in accord with the prin-
e;ples before demonstrated, and which pre-
vent free contact between the skin and the
air. which necessary for health, resist
snee to disease, and for efficiency, are the
close fitting woollen and often padded coat,
which must always be kept closely but
toned; the high close fitting collar; the
woollen puttces, resembling the bands IN
which the legs CT infants were swaddled in
former and more barbaric age; and the
regulation which neccssitates the constant
Wearing Of the hat or cap when out OF
doors The modern soldier is almost her.
iaesicaly sealed, from the soles OF his feet
70 his chin.
"It is 4 question whether the raggedness
and unkemptness of Washngton's heroic
little army during that melancholy winter
a. Valicy Forge was not better prcpara-
hon for the spring encounter with an
enemy more numerous and better equipped
han themselves than would have been
cesey winter in stean heated cantonment,
ead ~ the swaddling clothes Of the modern
h3ting man.
From the point Of view of modern sci
snse, the clothing Of the navy is far more
fa.ionai tnan is that of the army, at least
- lar az ths man Of the line is concerned.
!, would be interesting TO know whether
aAe health Of the former jg less good than
vat os the army. The open front blouse
ssa ire beH-bottono trousers tapping in the
Vind secure at least moderate exposure
" some part q the body
These thoughts suggest the old familiar
ssd probably apocryphal reply Of the Ind
IN 70 the white man, that he did not catch
al facs'
Benjanin Franklin knew the value Of
seid air bath night and morning, and the
..sys OF our schools and colleges all know
.ns asiights and the hcaitk inspiration that
ssMs D, going baYeheaded and scantily
va a. 'n the coidest Of winter weather.
ne Eonane put their fighting men into
+ = snort fiaje, with bare legs, and this, al
xussugn their operations we're carried on in
.pssS, Germany and britain, and during
s synsartes when, III shown both by ptysi-
aglsy and geology, the climate of South
EassA EUROPE was far stoYmisr and moro
- one ti&n at present.
New-York tribune., 1918-04-21

4 STRIKING indictment of mans
~ dress as factor in ill health is
made by DR.. Walter B. James
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
BoLo Pasha Declares He
 Is NO Traitor to France

Paris. February AT am no trai- tor. I have asked to be judged, and am willing to die, but not as a trai- tor.''
 Thus spoke Bolo Pasha, who was brought to trial by court-martial to- day on a charge of treason in having been chief factor in German propa- ganda in France. Bolo's quick wit and repartee were features of the sitting, as he tried to extricate him self from the conclusions of the re- port of Captain Bourchardon, of the Paris military court. who took the preliminary testimony, and asked for explanations by Colonel voyer, the president of the court-martial.
 Otherwise than for the nervous fumbling of his monocle, Bolo Pasha was impassive during the reading of Captain Bouchardons report of the Investigation dealing with Bolo's ac- tivities in Switzerland and affairs al- legged to have been carried out in the United States. The report dealt ex- tensively with his activities in the United States in connection with Adolphe Pavenstedt, who formerly was connected with a New York banking house, but now is in a Georgia intern ment camp. The defense outlined by Roio counsel was that Bolos activi- tles had been wholly in the interest Of the entente powers
 When former Premier Caillaux was seiled as witness for the defense
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

don't know the facts; can't find out In God's name. how is 1t possible for him to knowT'
 Here are 1oO,OOO.OoO people ready to fight Germany by themselves and can whip her by themselves" shouted Sem ator Williams. We feel our mettle; we still have the spirit, and the boys Whats the use of undertaking the administra- tion?"
 The Mississippi senator said the charges reminded hi1n of the man who went back to see statue and proclaimed the head divine, the breast superb, the legs those of an athlete, but saw small defect on the right heel and wrote 96 pages about the defect.
 srWhat's the use of it; whats the sense of it?' he asked "Arent's we all doing our level best to win the war. Isn't every republican trying to help to win the war, except few pacifists, who have nearly ended their political liyesF"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

Baker merely lacked information, Sena- tor Hitchcock said
 T consider it reckless-a terrible mis- take-to so mislead the country Of course, the secretary did not do it in- tentionally, but only because he did not have the information, because there was no coordination of the shipping board with other department agencies"
 Hoping to get 100000 to Europe with out sufficient ships to transport them was characterized by Senator Hitchcock as living in a Fools Paradise
 Unless something is done the United States will face the worlds greatest disaster, he said,
 T can't believe the secretary intend. cd it as a gigantic bluff, or intended to deceive the people," said Mir. Iiitch- cock. But he didn't know: he was out of touch.
 FIERY FASHION
 In fiery fashion Senator Williams in- stantly replied to Senator Hitchcock. He declared the Nebraska senator had made "a very strong indictment" against the executive departments Of the govern ment.
 Referring to Senator IIitchcocKs 2 state ment that he did not tell all he knew, because he might be charged with giv- Ing informa tion to the enemy, the Mis- sissippi senator declared:
 ''He did tell almost he knew, and he did give inform ation very valuable to the enemy
 Senator Williams referred to agita- tion before the war of legislation to pro hibit shipment of munitions to the al- lies.
 That was almost as foolish" he said. "as in this war abinet proposal Legis- lation to keep the allies from having munitions was the German game then. The German game now is undertaking this administration.
 If what the senator from Nebraska says is true, we are out of the war. If his indictment is true, we are already defeated"
 The continental congress, he added, came very near ruining General Wash ington, and all the asses that ever ex- isted came very near ruining Lincoln and Grant in the civil war" This was also true of the southern congress attitude toward Jefferson Davis, he added.
 Congress or a council cannot carry on the war and cannot furnish the brains for anybody else to do it," he said. "If the President hasn't got brains enough to perform the function of his great of flee, he can't be lent brains by coun- cil.'
 ''No other people ever turned from a peace basis and within nine months con- verted themselves so completely into a war machine" Senator Williams shouted.
 '"The senator says the Secretary of War
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

Rolo said he would waive CaillauXs s testimony, but Darius Pochere, a CO., defendant, objected to this, declaring that Caillaux's testimony must be heard, if not in the present case, then on behalf of himself.
 During the reading of Captain Bou- chardon's report, Bolo appeared some what bored, but when called upon by the president of the court-martial 60 explain discrepancies in his previous testimony, the prisoner soon became voluble. He spoke with q patroniz- ing air to the prosecuting attorney and the president of the court and ad- mitted many discrepancies and alto gether was considered to have had ~ better of the repartee.
 On being questioned by Captain Mornet the prosecutor, why, consid- ering the volume of business transact ed by him, he kept no books or rec ords, Bolo replied:
 q am the master of money, not it's slave"
 BoIo claimed that the money he re- ce1ved from Abbas Mimil former Khe- dive of Egypt, through Filippo Caval- linie, an Italian who is alleged to have taken $400 900 to Bolo Pasha's hotes in Paris in April, 1915, was in repay ment of loan made to the Khedive in 1914.
 Bolo asserted that he obtained the abdication of Abbas Mimil and de- clared that he used all his influence to have the former Khedive exert his energies in the interest of the entente
 Bolo's explanation of his activities in Switzerland had not been completed when court was adjourned for the day
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
Hitchcock Attempts to COunteract Effect of
 the Baker Statement
Continued from page One,


 reply to Senator Hitchcock, whose speech launched the debate which has been impending since Secretary Baker made his statement and the President made known his opposition to the mill 1tary committees plans for reorganiz- Ing the governments war ministry.
 CONCEDES BIG TASK
 Coneeding that much of a big task has been creditably done. the Nebraska senator insisted that centralized and co-ordinated war operations through | war cabinet. and centralized purchas> ing by munitions director, are 1mper- ative. He asserted that the Presid ent and Secretary Baker had tried, but had failed to attain the objective, and that the governments system was obsolete
 The commitee's legislation, he ar- gued. would not embarrass or interfere with the Presidents direction of the war. Sharp criticism of many govern ment war activities, but without at- tacking individuals, was made by the senator in Illuminating his arguments
 "Blunders that almost surpass beliet have occurred in the war department" he said. and the shipbuilding situation he described as "a farce and almost a crime.' He declared the transporta- ton system "has broken down" and lis a gigantic wreck" with 100000 tons of freight piled up at New York with out shipping facilities; that the fuel ad- ministration's orders have paralyzed war and other industries, and that food distribution also has been inefficient
 FLATLY DENIES BAKER
 In flatly denying Secretary Bakers statement that the government has plan for the war, the senator said the Senate military committee was struck by the war secretary's optimistic asser- tions.
 T am afraid to go too deeply into shipping figures" he added, for one might be charged with giving informa- fion to the enemy. All who are in- formed as to the present supply of our hipping were thunderstruck at the 4statements of Secretary Baker His sanguine predictions as to our ability to ship men to Europe and supply them when there, are congregations of the N,vildest sort.
 S"To supply 100000 men in France, sup posing we could get them over there, 1t will require 100000 tons of shipping in constant use. Where Is that coming from, and when is it coming? We all know the total tonnage now available is nothing like that amount. We all fear it will not approximate taht year from now.
 Yet the Secretary of War is so out of touch with the shipping board and shipping authorities that he makes a statement that is absolutely preposter- ous. have no doubt of his sincerity, but his act indicates again the extent { to which one department is out of touch with another department
 AS TO WAR PLANS {, Turning to Secretary Bakers war plan, Senator Hitchcock said:
 Secretary Baker says we have plans 1T am sorry to disagree with him. If
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

members of his cabinet. They come to senators and representatives"
 The President and Secretary of War have evidently realized the defect of the existing system and attempted to change it without legislation. but without success.
 Praising Edward Stettinius, the war departments new surveyor of pur- chases, Senator Hitchcock said he Is without legal authority, like all the otEer voluntary agencies, and that a legally constituted munitions direc- tor was needed.
 Senator Hitchcock said Great Brit afI and France both had been forced to remedy government weakness by a system similar to the war cabinet and suggested that the President under the bill would appoint and direct the war cabinet, and if he pleases, could appoint Secretaries McAdoo, Baker and Daniels as the members.
 The war departments obsolete method, the senator said, had brought the expected result, "confusion of au- thority, red tape, circumlocution and lhcapacity," and he cited evidence giv- en in the military committees inquiry or clothing, rifle and equipment short ages and sickness and death in camps as the result of overcrowding and lack of clothing.
 We found we must depend on oyer- worked and over-strained France for nNchfne guns for ground use until nearly the end of this year." he said, adoing that the first American made heavy artillery will not be received until July and mot much before 1919 can we expect to use in France Amer ican- made heavy artillery in any great quantity
 We found" he continued, that only now are We just beginning work on i've great powder plants to cost s60,- ooo,o0o, and cannot get powder from these plants before August. We found that though the medical department asked Tor hospital ships last July, they nave not yet been ordered I do not aeny that we also found much that vas creditable and satisfactory. The task was huge one and much of the work has been ably done Some war department officials, most severely criticized, have worked desperately nara. This comment covers the secre- tary himself. This leads me to hold de1ectfve organizati tion responsible TOT the shortcomings to a greater de- gree than any individual or group of individuals'
 Two courses were open to the com .nittee as result of the inyestiga- eion said senator Hitchcock-to re- port making few scapegoats and ishoring the greatest evil of defective y' n-0onihery' or recommending legisla-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

Ii aal defense, today appealed to the women of America to educate women speakers to bring the message of var necessary to all communities.
 "The supreme need in our work" says Mrs. Catt, lis few good speakers among the women in each state who will be available for large meetings, and who will be active in following up with lively and effective campaigns in the smaller communities.'
 This is in line with the campaign of the council of national defense, and speaking division of the committee on public information to establish speakers bureaus in every state. Up to January l5, 25 states had such bureaus, six re- ported they were planning to organize theirs, and six more reported that the four-minute men are utilized as speak, CTS bureau.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05

there is one thing more conspicuous b, its absence than any other operation of the various departments and bureaus in Washington. It has been planning for the future. I do not deny that the various departments have planned as far as they could in advance, but who has prepared the master plan which will har- monize all the other plans? Nobody Nobody could''
 Referring to the Presidents opposition to the two committee bills, the senator said that 1t was on the ground that the President alone has responsibility for conduct of the war, adding:
 The mere statement presents an absurdity.''
 Asserting that Congress has large measure of responsibility, Senator Hitch cock said lit would be monstrous'' to hold the President responsible for the D. 000,000 tons of freight piled up in New York; flor the breakdown of transporta- tion the muddle and tumble of priority shipments; the shortcomings of the ordnance and quartermasters depart ments; suffering of the unnecessarily sick soldiers. and nine months delay in con- struction of the government powder fac tory.'
 The senator summarized the enormous burdens on the President, including act ing as his own prime minister. design ing all the legislation for Congress to pass. dictating the industrial, financial and political activities of the country, and looking after expenditures of $250, 900, ,O0d a week.
 NOTES PRESS REPORTS
 ''The President does not want the com mittee to report the cabinet bill,'' he con- tinued. land if press reports be true he objects even to discussion of this leg islation in the Senate. This attitude on the part of the President is unfortunate, but not altogether unnatural.
 Tn the first place, the President be- longs to the school ot political philoso- phers who adhere to the belief that all important legislation should oHiginate with and be proposed by the executive. cannot subscribe to this scheme of government, although it has some ob- vious advantages in that 1t provides lead ership order and programme
 Since he became President, MT. Wilson has enforced his view upon Congress to large degree and generally with good results. In the main I have been one of those who have followed his leader ship and supported his policies. and I ex- pect to do so in the future. Now and then, however, an exception must be made.
 "This is one of those cases. The question at issue is nonpart1san. NO party leadership is involved. Neither Is any principle involved. The matter at issue is purely a practical ques- tion whether we can improve the ef- ficiency of war administration by adopting business methods in buying supplies and whether we can get or del out of confusion and action in stead of delay by co-ordinating and bringing under one head a number of great government bureaus now run ming almost independently, and often at cross purposes.
 T agree with Senator Chamberlain that the President does not know the real situation. He cannot give two months to an investigation such as we have done. Like king surrounded by court he hears practically only one side. The people who complain do not reach the President, nor even
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
tion to give the President "an up-to- date war making organization"
 WILLIAMS ASKS QUESTION

date war making organization"
 WILLIAMS ASKS QUESTION Senator Williams of Mississippi asked Senator Hitchcock for his authority Tor statement that 21,000,000 pairs of shoes have been ordered. Senator Hitchcock said 1t came from civilian officials In high position.
 Then it's mere hearsay, after alI' Senator Williams replied. The Nebraska senator added that he understood 100000 more pairs had been ordered, and he hoped the allies wouio take some of them off our hands. When Senator Hitchcock said he was advised that a large quantity of meat on a ship had spoiled by a blunder in turn ing off refrigeration plant, Democratic Leader Martin asked the authority TOT the statement
 Senator Hitchcock said it was widely published and never denied.
 Senator Weeks said the quartermaster general had admitted it.
 Senator Williams demanded that Sem ator Hitchcock disclose the names or his informants in all cases, and Senator Hitchcock declined.
 Senator Williams then replied that in accordance with legal usage The would enter a general denial"
 And l shall leave IL 10 the Jury, rejoined Senator Hitchcock.
 Senators on both sides gave Senator Hitchcock close attention.
 Senator Kirby, democrat, asked if the military committee formally had made any findings, or whether the speech rep resented the Nebraska senator's indi- vidual views.
 Senator Hitchcock said the decision 10 report the two bills were by members who had attended all the committees meetings. Senator Kirby did not attend the investigation until early in January.
 In support of Senator Hitchcocks statement on shoes ordered, Senator Me- Kellar. another democratic member ot the military committee, cited testimony of the quartermaster general that from March to December 31, 1917, orders were given for GOO pairs
 I'm not going to delay the Senate with all the proof" said MT. Hitchcock; I'm merely stating the facts"
 PENROSE ARISES"
 When Senator Hitchcock declared Sec- retary Baker had widely exaggerated' In predictions of abiliey to send troops abroad, Senator Penrose asked:
 T am curious to know what influ- enced the secretary to make such a state- ment so apart from the facts. Was 1t his sanguine and hopeful nature, or lack of information to justify them?'
 Replying that he believed Secretary
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
BIRMINGHAM LEADS
 RECRUITING RECORD

A report has been compiled by Capt. James B. Hutchinson, recruiting offl- cer of Alabama, showing the number of recruits received by many of the cities of Birmingham's size and class. for the month of November. It will be seen from a study of the following list that Birmingham has another star of glory to add to her already large
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
DEATHS

Gideon HoImes-Aged 7S; died at the family residence, 6609 Sloss avenue, East Lake, yesterday. Funeral serv- ices will be held this morning at 10 o'clock from the Sixty-sixth street Methodist church. Interment will fol- low at Clay. He is survived by his widow and eight children.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1918-02-05
Mrs. Catt Appeals to All
 Women to Realize War

Washington, February Airs Carrie Chapman Catt, chairman of the educa- tional propaganda department of the woman's committee of the council of na-