davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1918-07-07
Entertainment at Home.

Most OF us feel that It is a little
old-fashioned to derive ones enter
tainment and amusement within the
walls of ones own home. Drawing
room concerts and amateur perform
ances generally are looked upon with
disfavor. and We have most of us
made the remark at one time or
another that since we have the op-
portunity to hear. CALI Curci and
Caruso and scotti and Gluck at Afst
hand we are decidedly bored over
such music as we may produce OUR
selves. So our pianos are closed and
are left untuned. If our children
can sing we spare them the pains OF
having their voices cultivated. We
feel In way that 1t is the modern,
up-to-date thing to be amused out Of
our homes, and that to find amuse-
ment at home Is sign of old-fash-
toned manners.
Yet 1T was only sixty years ago that
things stood Just the other way, and
1t was regarded quite the up-to-date
and Smart thing to seek amusement
this tendency went SO far as to say
that the advance Of civilization was
marked by this very thing, the less
civilized We were the more we sought
amusement out OF the home, ana the
more cultivated the more we were
inclined to amuse ourselves in our
own drawing rooms.
formerly nearly all such amuse-
ments were away from home ana In
public said writer in 1851. wow,
with the more educated portion Of So
ciety, the greatest part is at home and
within the family circle, music on the
piano constituting the greatest por-
ton of it. In the most fashionable cir
cles of cities private concerts increase
year by year. and In them the piano ID
the principal feature"
1t would perhaps be previous to say
that there is any marked tendency to
return to the habit of home entertain
ment and amusement. But 1t does
seem likely-does it not-that in these
days when we have little surplus cash
to spend we may be turned on our
cover that there are advantages In
this sort of amusement over those or
concert hall and moving picture show.
In London and Papis the fact that
there are fewer places of amusement
opened now and the added fact that
the possibility of, raids makes night
travel in the. street .perilons has
brought a decided increase in the
tendency for home amusement. There
is not the slightest doubt that a. re.
vival OF this home entertainment
spirit will come in our land. SO open
up TIE old piano. have it.tuned. get
out the old music and Timber up the
stiffened fingers. If you have an .ac.
complishment" brush II up Rehearse
your old .:'parlor trick" and dig down
in your mind for some of those harm
less little indoor games that used 70
keep you and your friends in roar
when you were girl.
Evening star., 1918-07-07

trimmed with fur, regardless of sum-
mer weather. .tt
Chiffon, in great Dresden patterns.
is used over silveE or gold DID,, metallic
Dark colors are chosen. as. we'll as
light The two new blues, liberty"
and blue devil" are chosen in crepe
or chiffon that has an. immense pink,
scarlet or white and yellow flower on 1t.
There are other wraps made OF Dolly
Warden, fiowered white chiffon which
are lined with lace,-<with mauve or
pink chiffon as an interlining.
There are exclusive women in the
world of society and leisure. who not
seeing enough in the way of novelty
to please them for these evening
clothes, have taken it into their ca
PRECIOUS heads to invent new coiffures.
The outlook is promising. for the
hairdressers. We are again following
in the footsteps -Paris in making.
our coiffures different from what they
have been, because when France was
in the depths of her war trouble she
invented the new Spanish coiffure.
which was significant and had great
success.
The two extreme changes that have
sailed over the horizon to success in
There is the Grecian eoiffure with the
hair brought forward over the tenn
pies. instead of backward. and then
bands of sequins, or colored satin rib
Don or JeWeleu gaNoon uSeu III the Ireek
fashion.
The other coiffure is; far more ex-
treme, less feminine and quite strik-
ing. and it was invented by young
matron Of New York, who Is living in
Washington. and is noted for her ca
pricious departures from accepted
fashions. =
She has revived the coiffure of the
men who were bucks and dandies be-
fore our civil war. 1t is coiffure
that goes with the pantaloons that
arched boot. The hair is cut short at
the back, and the long bang in front
is brushed down to the eyebrows and
forward over the temples.
Truly, 1T Is season for novelty.
Evening star., 1918-07-07

not have done for half century. or
probably more. But-and this is a
most important "but'-they had been
educated up to their jobs during the
peais' to their ambition and aspira-
What a topsy-turvy kind of exist
ence this thing called life is! You
strife and importune. turn and twist
for something that you want and that
the, earth like a spirit comes the OPP
porthhity through no seeking of your
own ard in way that was never
Srs SisiSPed or encompassed by your
When the volunteers were succeed
ed by the draft, and when Provost
Marshal Crowder's slogan, Work or
fight" took men by the millions out
Of their chosen fields of endeavor. the
world of commerce, industry and edu-
cation made frantic" appeals to wom-
en- and held out to them as a gift
what 1t had denied them as right.
This: situation has developed in the
last two months with a rapidity that
is startling. Possibly, the prepara-
tions; for war. which have been made
laggArd to impetuous people have be-
gun Ito move with the immense i'm
petus of large force that has finally
been pushed to the top Of a hill and
sent down on a smooth incline.
Things are happening so fast and
hard that we seem to be getting into
thegWar for the first time. Everything
begins to count and tell. Men are
leayilg, men are fighting. over there,
me4, Are. giving up their positions
oVeC here, a million more are being
calfed,, million more are being
tho4ght Of. ships are launched, money
is Forthcoming.
/. This rapid action is taking away the
breath Of many people, and 1t is right
IN THIS particular little segment of
the war that women are vltally con-
cerned.
We must work in every department
OF industry that man has heretofore
occupied. No one realizes how quick
~ this demand for female industry
would arise. AS / have said, every
..hing that the visionists have begged
,"r mas happened through a circum-
stance FOR which women can take no
Evening star., 1918-07-07

UT Is evident that all blouses that
bear the stamp of fashion will ex-
q tend half way between the waist
and knees. These blouses are often
sleeveless when worn under coats.
They are built of colored chiffon that
does not match the gown. or of linen,
albatross, silk and woolen jersey and
corded silks. Every effort lis. being
made to put out of fashion the blouse
that ends at the waist line and cuts
off the figure. ..
Some of the new orsandy hats are
self-trimmed. with big bows of or
CANDY One of flesh Iink organdy
has a big bow of the same color, the
edges of the double strip from which
the bow Is tied being bound with a
bias band of white organdy.' The only
other trimming on the hat is some big
pearl beads 'sewed irregularly to the
crown -' 80. '".
Frocks: of charming freshness are
made Of. plain and embroidered or
CANDY combined. One worn recently
by young girl shows narrow un-
derskirt or petticoat edged by nu-
merous little. hutings OF .valenciennes
lace, turned up. instead of. down.
These were set on Il petticoat of plain
organdy. over this was hung II
slightly full skirt of embroidered or
gandy-pink. embroidered with. pink
threads in loose, splashy design. The
petticoat hung about three inches be-
low the overskirt.
At one of the weddings. at which
Lord Strathcona's granddaughter was
Evening star., 1918-07-07

in Europe, and it has changed in
America in the twinkhng Of an eye.
Why?
Women have more money; they have
war relief. hospital service and COM
mittee work have brought women
from the depths of social obscurity
into hourly contact with those who
lead fashions and live leisurely lives:
dress instead Of degrading it. 1t. en-
livens life; it brightens the prospect
of our sacrifices; 1t is light to our
endurance.
Don't jump to the conclusion that
women are buying cloth Of gold
gowns cut to the waist line, or jetted
nets that are mere fragments of COW
ering or satins with ceremonial trains.
This is evening apparel of a kind, but
only one kind.
X
1t might be said that Washington
leads the way, in this fashion Of dress
ing. .,
The kind of evening clothes that are
being bought by women who have
never before indulged in this bit Of
recklessness are the things that make
one appear suitably frocked for the
evening.
Once upon a time they went out, in
the evening in whatever clothes they
happened to have on when their hu5
bands telephoned to meet them for
dinner or the play; today. they have
learned the lesson taught by the yet
ter dressed class that evening clothes
make for comfort and are desirable.
There were days when woman
used her motor coat for any chance
evening gayety. Today she is asking
for one of the vast assemblage of
evening capes that the shops and
dressmakers offer to this new type of
buyer.
These new raps have extraordinary
charm. They are figured, whereas they
used to be solid. They are lavishly
Evening star., 1918-07-07

training of the centuries has fitted
them for this particular sector OF in
dustry. Being in the business, they
will spend more money on clothes.
and they will influence the expendi-
lures of other women,
This is the situation which all seri-
ous-minded women realize and which
will probably dominate the country
before peace Is concluded.
1t is useless to tell women that they
must not buy clothes. The reformers
mean we'll, but they are planting seed
on barren soil. There must be some
pleasure in this world, or we would
all go mad with the pain and anxiety
to work for their living you must
give them the chance to deck them
selves out in q bit of gay plumage
and go out and eat and laugh; other
wise they will become useless for all
service, patriotic or industrial.
X X "'
Let me tell you an odd thing about
this development of wgmen's work,
which has been brought about not
only through their service in paying
positions. but in war relief work.
1t is the growing demand for even
ing clothes by women who have here
tofore never indulged in them. We
are only following in the footsteps o.;
human nature as 1t has asserted itself
in France and England during the
last eighteen months. Paris has shown
an extraordinary interest in. this de-
and merchants have found it to be an
cngrossing by-product Of the war.
Evening dress has always been a
thing for the luxurious. 1t has been
indulged in by those whose lives were
more or less given to leisure. Mil
lions of women have not considered 1t
necessary to change their somber
street clothes into low or half-low.
fragile ones for the evening meal or
evening gayeties. The street suit,
with a few changes, has served dur
ing the waking hours. The shirt waist
and sport skirt have filled in the rest
of the service needed.
But this condition no longer exists
Evening star., 1918-07-07
Interesting Fashion Conditions Brought About by Women Industry

emphasized with band of fur at the
top, and on some of the silk frocks
size. OF course, the new calico frocks
have pockets, some of them. but they
are quite prim and fiat. bound of, as
befts calico pockets, with a bit Of
the same material. cut bias.
Half belts. or quarter belts, or any
thing else but whole belts are found
on many of the midsummer suits of
belt. really, that strap over the front
or across the back or on the sides.
Buttons and sometimes, too. big
buckles of dull jet or enamel or
polished wood are used with these
bits OF belt that add decorative note
to coats and jackets.
Evening star., 1918-07-07

a WOUNDED Anzac had come
IN to America to lecture. He
IN bore some honorable scars
q - on his body. which were
symbolized by stripes on his arm. A
woman touched the stripes and asked
what were his worst wounds. He de-
scribed one, which was clean hole
made by a bullet. In his informal An
zac manner he asked IL she would
like to see 1t. She would. So would
every one else at the luncheon. So
he showed her the bullet hole below
the collar bone.
How very disappointing" she ex-
claimed. II expected a great CASH"
The Anzac buttoned his collar
thoughtfully. and. turning to the table.
said: Nov, l ask you. what are we
going to do with women II they be-
gin to expect SO much of men in this
warp
FAnd what will they do with them?
Men have begun to expect SO much Of
women and women OF themselves that
sae situation is the most vitality inter-
4 esting thing on this planet, next to
4
Women are gaining so much more
| by this war than they ever demanded
that many are puzzled and some are
inear-hysterical.
Once we were a contented race: then
we became an unquiet sex: then we
became a restless force. and then we
became a militant power.
\
Those with the keenest visions saw
ahead of them long struggle. They
outlined the propaganda Of self-edu-
cation for women: they lectured to
men and of men concerning what we
should have in the way Of industry
and commercial opportunity. When
ever men said that we were not suffi-
ciently educated to take over tho
commercial burdens Of the world we
retorted that we would never be edu-
eated IL we did not begin to study.
1t was to be q long war, argued the
kisionists. No one expected crisis
hat would revolutionize affairs and
throw women into the places they de-
3ired and demanded.
Chen the. war broke all traditions.
Circumstances did for women what
al the propaganda in the world could
Evening star., 1918-07-07

credit and which they did not work
out through any schemes OF their
own.
Now, how is 1t all going to turn
out? That Is a big question, and there
is no space to discuss 1t here. But
women will expect much of men In
the future. and what they expect OF
them now Is merely trife in COM
parison with what is to come.
IL women learn to support them
selves, to promote industries, to ex-
plot their financial talents; II they
become independent OF the moneyed
rely on their own judgment and to
make rapid decisions to which they
stick. will they go to men for ADVICE
after the war? In other words, VIII
they revert to type? win they return
to what they have been for the last
the worlds history taught us that
whenever women were trained to
power they ceased to depend upon
men mentally and morally and used
them only for sentiment. romance ana
friendship?
OF one thing the prophets are sure:
that women, making money, Will
spend more. Not having to ask for
1t they Will cease to be petulant ABOUT
1t. When woman knows there are
5000 jobs open to her, and that she
can command as good a salary as the
man she sent to war, she is not going
to be niggardly about getting new
clothes, enjoying herself and refur-
nishing her house.
Human nature never changes, no
matter what else changes on this
planet. and spending will be wom-
ans antidote to hard work. IL she
has been repressed in the matter OF
buying attractive things for the house
or for her body. she will go out and
gorge herself on those things when
the first freedom from debt gives her
a buoyant feeling of happiness.
The business Of feminine apparel
should always have been attended to
by women, not men. This channel of
activity Is being directed to its right
coarse. A million or more men on this
continent, who are mixed up in wom-
EMS apparel, will have to give up
their places to women. who have an
instructive knowledge Of what other
women want and do not want. With
training, which will give them cool
head, a smooth tongue and the ambi-
tion to rise. they will make admirable
clerks, foorwalkers, heads of depart
ments. buyers and shopkeepers.
( 1t Is toward the apparel business
that they are rapidly drifting. That IL
their DESIRE and all their preliminary
Evening star., 1918-07-07

credit and which they did not work
out through any schemes Of their
own.
Evening star., 1918-07-07
~ ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

e: 8: :::: !: '' s:
u ~ ON hia hndN 1uhich ,Inro
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

Those very handsome separate
skirts that came in along with rich,
new fabrics for summer set pace
for elegance and style that is not
easy to keep up with. But the sep
arate skirts for fall measure up to
their standard. which is saying more
for these heavier skirts than could
ever be said before.
Many of tie new skirts are made of
cloths woven especially for therh.
These goods are plain, with borders
an wide or narrow bands in contrasting
cOlOrs. or patterned with wide bands
in alternating colors over all their sur
face, or bordered with cross-bar bands,
or perfectly plain. Now that the looms
are busted with the affair of the sep
nrate skirt we may expect revelations
in fine designing. In all the new mod
els pockets, large buttons and novel
girdles-nearly always wide-are style
features on which designers have CEN
tered attention.
III wool goods for plain skirts, jer-
sey cloth remains q favorite and in
silk poplin is not outrivaled as yet,
although tricOt may soon take the
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

Manufacturers of salts assure us that
no supply of wool beyond that they
have already secured is in sight, and
II follows that our spring clothes are
likely to be made of some other sort
of material Already variety of
new materials is on the shelves of the
stores and in the stock rooms of the
factories. Whoever needs wool suit
would best buy 1t early in the season
before the supply runs out. 1t may
have to do service for the next three
wears but 1t is easy to put up with
this state of things. If all the wool is
needed for the ever-increaslng army.
women will do without 1t.
There are on hand Just now suits
and coats for fall in good wool mate
rails and in many graceful styles. One
of them is shown above in practical
and plain model that will prove n good
Investment. 1t will be noticed that
the skirt is longer than for several
seasons. This is an echo of French
STYLES, which may or may not be ac-
cepted in America. American wom-
en- like the cleanliness of shorter
skirts and they also like their most
busnesslke Gtyle and may insist that,
In street suits at least. the mandate
for longer skirts be disobeyed.
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

lead. The skirt shown in the picture
is an example of good designing in "a
separate skirt since it is modish and
good looking. 1t is of rose-coiOred
wool jersey with slit pockets on each
side. finished at their edges with dou-
BILE rows of machine stitching. The
skirt is gathered with a little fullness
mt the front and more ut the sides and
back, to a moderately wide waistband.
1t fastens at the left side where the
wide tab extending from the top of the
girdle is fastened down with snap
fastener
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07
EichiI of Net.

The fichu of net. which has been
such favorite during the warm
weather, gives promise of enjoying
decided popularity this autumn. espe-
cially for indoor frocks. Collars of
filet and sets of collar and cuffs in this
modish lace are still being worn on
dark cloth and satin dresses.
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

The suit pictured Is of Himalaya
cloth with large revers and an over
collar of plush. The coat has a plain
body with skirt pointed at each side
and plated on. 1t Is bound with silk
braid. A narrow belt wraps twice
about the waist, once following the
high waistline In the body and again
about the top of the coat skirt. 1t
Is also trimmed with silk braid.
Uneven length in coats makes grace
full suits, but this style feature passed
the zenith of its popularity during the
spring and summer. Coats in nearly
all the new suits are cut straight
around the bottom. are moderately
long, and many of them have large
pockets. Convertible collars are meet
ing with such favor that we are sure
of this comfortable and chic neck fin
ishings for the coming fall and win
ter at least.
In cOIors brown, biege and blue
have the lead. with all shades of brown
in strong demand. But one cannot
make a mistake In choosing any one
of them.
G~ 2za~a
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

Taffeta for Young Girls.
Taffeta is Il good choice for a young
,irl's best dress.
The Colorado statesman., 1918-09-07

Or. S. A. Huff, Office Phone is York
2313. If not reached at office or
Home, York S374J. Call Atlas Drug
Co., Main 875.
Iron County record. [volume] (Cedar City, Utah) 1893-1982, 1918-02-08
GRO BE CONTINUED
AirpIane Wrecks Train.

An airplane has often proved itself
more than a match for its antagonist
in an unequal encounter. A French
aviator once penetrated far behind the
German lines and CHANGED UPON a
heavily laden troop train. The speed
Of his craft being fully twice that of
this unusual antagonist, 1t gave him an
advantage he was quick to use. The
airplane flew so low that its machine
gun was brought to bear upon the cars.
raking them with disastrous results.
Stlll dying very low, the airman in
creased his speed and, on coming
abreast of the locomotive, shot both
engineer and fireman. Left 10 itself,
the locomotive raced forward uncon-
trolled, and taking n sharp curve at
high speed was wrecked with great
loss of l,fe.
Iron County record. [volume] (Cedar City, Utah) 1893-1982, 1918-02-08
Center Of Fashion,

Paris, the center of-the worlds fash.
ions, has no fewer than 10000 women
dressmakers. not counting designers
and filters, which would bring the
number up to close on 100000. The
designers, who sketch out their ideas
In pen and ink or with water-colors,
and often originate the fashions that
prevail throughout the world, earn
easily over four figures year, OBJ
serves correspondent.
Good mannequlns are the most diff
cult to obtain. Some of the largest
Partisan houses employ twenty or thir-
~, whose whole time Is passed in try
ing on dresses before the eyes of fash
ionable French women. Naturally the
numbers are fewer nowadays, and
many of the most famous manneQuins
OF Paris are now nursing In the hos
pitfalls or employed In the French NUM-
ton works.
Iron County record. [volume] (Cedar City, Utah) 1893-1982, 1918-02-08
coInlna Of Yankee Dollars.

II was In 1902 that the congress OF
the United States authorized the es-
adjustment of mint In Philadelphia.
With the founding of this institution
the almighty dollar" began to come
into its own. The Spanish dollar had
been common in America for years,
and when Governor Morris attempted
70 harmonize all the moneys of the
states he took the dollar as a stand
ard. The plans of Morris We're later
amended by Jefferson, who proposed
TO strike four coins upon the basis of
the Spanish mllled dollar--a gold piece
of the value of SO, dollar in silver,
tenth of dollar In silver and a
hundredth of dollar in copper