Evening star., 1918-06-02

to leave all forms Of dressing free
from its sinister influence.
1t touches the clothes for the young
in a gentle way. and the way Is not
Objectionable. Middle youth. as 1t Is
expressed at seventeen and younger.
the most picturesque fields from
which to draw a fashion here and
there.
with % one end I'd drapea ana eseracttne oYer tne
fashions to use up for the summer
season. An Elusive kind Of Sam
Brown belt is becoming q bit com
mon, but II. too. nds an abiding place
o, the coat of slim little suit:
Now, however. that such a big ma
jority of young women find that pub
lie opinion permits them to wear
breeches. cap and coat for war RELIEF
work they are less apt to use up the
military ideas in the more feminine
costumes.
In children's clothes there is little
of the war that can be adopted. but
the plaid sashes from Scotland and
coats. the multiple pockets. are evil
shadow downward to the cradle.
Between the nursery. and middle
youth there is a mass OF children that
must be dressed well throughout the
hot season. and for these the design
ers haye turned out enough fashions
to supply the demand of a continent
of grown-ups. They smack Of sophis-
tication. some Of them. and are taken
elders.
There is the surplice bodice. the
Martha Washington collar which re-
sembles a handkerchief. the patent
leather belt. the umbrella skirt and
the short sleeves-which. after all,
age has merely pilfered from youth
this spring.
There are still touches of an older
and cape coat in two colors. which
was adopted from the directoire and
the consulate. after the designers
could not force them upon women
with any degree Of success last win
ter.
The organdy frocks. which spring
like mushrooms from Bar Harbor to
the Florida coast TINS year. are found
to be admirable for youth when it is
parading itself in the afternoon. It
1t is chosen in colors as well as
white. and now that colored ribbon
sashes are revived by old and young
the organdy takes on the atmosphere
of the fiowery part Of the nineteenth
century and fits into the landscape
as the sport clothes never do.
The feeling Of weariness against
these so-called sport clothes that has
grown up on all sides since May be-
gan had it's inception in Palm Beach
last February and in Paris two years
ago. at half-deserted Deauville and
hOspital-like Monte Carlo. We have
overdone the phase; when we like
anything we go in for it with the
youthful spirit. and. presto. we tire
of it quickly. This promises to be the
history of the ceaseless round of
sport clothes. that have been made to
Hn dtNtN hur III. hk
and twenty for all other apparel that
has served women for a century or
more.
Into this discussion the small chill
dren have no part, for their clothes
are always arranged for sportive-
ness; but even in the clothes of the
fve-year>old there creeps the feeling
OF coquetery that is trying to sup
plant the sweater. the loudly striped
skirt and the shapeless hat.
When exquisite organdies are used
for small clothes. as for large ones.
the embroidery is done on new lines
that Is. new to this time in clothes.
There is a flight of pastel-tinted but
terfiies. a shower of green leaves.
Moorish arches in old blue and pink
that might have been suggested by
the decorations for that eye-bewilder-
ing Chu Chin Chow. A primly set row
of pink rOSebuds may go around the
waist and skirt of a white organdy
frock. and curving line of faint
bluebirds may be used as an adorn-
ment for the hips. These, you must
admit. are departures from the con-
ventional designs that have been
readily adopted for the majority Of
young clothes for decades. In this
matter of embroidery they have ar
handiwOrk. So far as the season has
gone the embroidery done on frocks
for women has been as brilliantly
barbaric as Byzantium.
But none of this Slavic, Russian,
Moorish, Chinese work makes it's ap-
pearance on the child's clothes. On
them is kept the natural. not the arti-
hcial. The designs are taken from the
simplest life in the landscape. and
the things that are manifestly repre-
sentative of emotions are reserved
for those who can carry them of.
1t is fact that you cannot fail to
observe; If you have had occasion to
study the recently produced clothes
for little girls. that some of the
styles borrowed from-or. rather.
suggested blythe styles launched
this spring for mammals clothes have
done rather better in the juvenile
version than in the adult. Whatever
may be the fate of the Eton jacket
in grown-up costumery. true it is
that not one woman in ten can wear
1t to advantage. One need not be a
student of anatomy nor possess
very keen feeling for proportion to
know that it never. never will do for
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