Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1918-05-10

low the knees. finishing In a bow at
the side.
Another trick is the gathering In Of
the fullness at the side of skirt to
straight. embroidered band which
Is strongly reminiscent of be first
hObble skirts.
The women in the sewing rom finds
delight In the fact that fullneS Is not
taboo. She realizes that she ON have
whatever material she desires in a
skirt If it does not flare away from
the hips or the knees.
What the French call the "npe ton
neau" has certain popularity. and
the woman who owns skirt of this
kind with its pannier effect at the
sides, achieved through umbrella folds.
ana its close. narrow hemp may leave
it as 1t is. 1t satisfies the appetite
of fashion TODAY.
The advent of the short sleeve in
frocks. blouses, jackets and even top
coats is startling to the American
mind. We invented the elbow sleeve
and forced it upon Paris. The word
invent" is, of course, bad one to
use in fashions. because everything
has been, and therefore, everything Is
merely revived"
When the elbow sleeve was c"-sid-
cred by Paris as an American fashion
projected through the demand for con-
venience, it was looked upon by the
ultra-smart French designer as part
and parcel of that wOrk-a-day cos
tumery which the Americans demand
ed and with which the European ele-
gante would have nothing to do. We
were called working people.
After while Europe Us we'll as
America adopted the short sleeve, and
those in this country who were fas-
tdious began to side with the French
i'm their belief that the fashion was
in elegant. For three years we wit
messed streets filed with girls who
wore elbow sleeves in separate white
blOuses, with Dutch necks, no collars,
no gloves, and separate skirts. That
was an ugly day In costumery. Let US
hope that it will not be revived. al
though there is every evidence that
the seeds of this evil have already been
sOwn.
But these short sleeves, which were
worn in the Directoire with every kind
IF gown and which were practically
covered by rare old cashmere shawls.
are not the only short ones that this
spring has produced. We are evident
IL in for reign of abbreviated arm COW
erings, inspiration for which has been
gotten from all the centuries.
The surpliee Movement Wins.
Another change In the direction of
fabrics across the body has been made
by the French, and to follow 1t will re-
quire ingenious alterations on the part
Of the American woman. Evidently
there is an idea that the fewer the
buttons the better the frock. We have
gone back to the dime when strings
held fabrics together and the cloth was
cut In such q way that 1t remained
where 1t was placed on the body
r<nnasHH won't
hensive to put the wholeyhng into the
statement that the mOrdEe are wrap
ped across the body the etter dressed
we are today.
This movement Of fSric finds its
most commonplace expiration In the
surplice bodice or jacf. Afternoon
gowns and the most ellOrate evening
frocks have bodices TT are merely
elongated scarfs with tnhOles. They
wrap around the figu1 at the waist
line and the back. frO1 or sides.
Separate surplice 1ices are not
considered too ignobldO be attached
to brilliant evening 4rt. When the
latter Is Of diaphanO1 and frivolous
fabric the bodice mayf Of satin. bro
cOde or tissue, and VIII 1t finishes its
bias movement abouthe figure II Is
held at the side with freat g"'l rose.
| Copyright. 1918. by the tcClure .wspa-
per Syndice)