The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1917-11-09

of white groserain ribbon.
has not varied the rather ugly line
of the skirt movement which she
adopted. She gathers the skirt to the
waistine turns the fullness at the
bottom up TO tight, narrow lining
and then allows 1t to swing free from
the legs as the wearer walks.
This season she has produced nov
city in the form of u skirt that is
more truly Oriental than the other.
and in this she Is side by side with
half dozen Of the great French de-
signers who have shown this skirt
without any apology for its decided
Orientalism.
The distinctive feature in which this
new skirt differs from the old one,
both being taken from the Orient, Is
that 1t has two openings for the feet
trick being adopted by smart society
gives the eccentric designers Il chance
to do daring and remarkable things.
There is one gown which has an
opening for the left foot, but not for
the right one. There IL another that
has two pear-shaped openings for the
feet directly in front, with the outer
edges of the hem sewed together, al
lowing the fullness to cling to the out
side of the ankles.
The only eccentric trick that re.
mains for some French designer to
do Is to put the opening for the right
foot ut the back and the opening for
the left foot at the front Consider
ing what has been created, one ex-
poets such development Of this par
ticulur fashion ut any moment.
There Is no use arguing against this
new type Of Oriental skirt for evening
wear. 1t will prevail without doubt
among those who like what is new
and what is graceful, and there is no
denying the exquisite grace Of this
type of Oriental ckirt, and the good
setting it gives to slim ankle and
well-shaped foot.
If there only could be law against
women with broad, thick ankles and
broad feet wearing this type of eve
ming skirt, we would he n better
dressed nation, but as yet no censor
of fashions has arisen.
CaIIot's Gowns for America.
This development of a new skirt Is
not the only interesting feature OF
fashions in this particular garment,
A certain set of designers is endeav-
orng, despite the cry for economy in
material, to establish a skirt that
touches the ankles for the street and
the toes for the evening.
A few of the best American design
ors are back of this movement in an
alliance with the French. There are
such leaders as Callot, however, who
make no compromise, but cut the hens
of their skirts to the shoetops for the
street and an inch lower for the eve
ming. -.
Another piece of bravado Is the way
Call0t gives sleeves to her gowns,
They are long sleeves, or, yes, quite
covering the arms ns well as the back,
hut they're made of IA single piece of
tulle and are attached to nothing more
Or less than moderately high girdls
which does not reach the arms ut the
nldes or back by several inches. .I.
She has one gown with oyster white
sleeves and back OF floating tulle made
from II piece of tulle -drnpery that is
banded for twelve inches with apple
green tulle, and across the front of the
wrapped satin bodice Is bias band
of brilliant green cryst0l Such aS tha
queens wear IN court costume.
Opposed to these evening gowns,
she produces the robe of the stained
glass saints. 1t is of swinging velvet,
in cathedral colors, and covers mp the
entire body from neck to heels with
the exception of few inches ut the
neck In front. .,N
Copyright 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)