davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05
Fashions from
Theatre Francois

"HOSE of US who have to watch fashions
from the source to the ragged end
have learned to pay marked attention
70 the members of the Theatre Francois
Callot, Pauuin, Doucet, Jenny and Lanvln are
the great designers in France who see to 1t
that these members Of the French artistic set
wear on the American stage the brilliant cos
tumery that Paris demands Of its actresses.
The costume which is sketched is an ex-
ample Of the minuteness of artistic detail IN
which the French indulge. 1t is coat suit
Of balsam green eponge The loose, skeleton
coat has a collar and draped cuffs of white
silk muslin. The belt has a domino design
Of black and white against patent leather
background and the buttons which fasten the
coat and ornament the sleeves are OF cherry
red. The skirt consists of two narrow fiounces,
the lower one finished with hem that is just
wide enough for comfortable step.
The hat worn with this suit has white
Velour brim, with crown Of shirred green
grosgrain ribbon, trimmed with bunch OF
red cherries, TO carry out the color effect gwen
to the suit by the red buttons.
Green and red make difficult combination,
one that becomes essentially cheap if it is not
handled by an artist. In copying this costume
il would be wise 10 have some one with fault
less color sense choose the shades Of green ana
red that must be commngled
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05
Young Girls
Wear Bonnet

"HERE were epochs when the older WOE
en- made the advances in style o''
to-day the young woman is the leaoe'
and often dictator. 1t is to her that the Q
perts are looking for the success Of man! I"
the new bits of headgear that are being snow
in the shops and offered to exclusive patrons
The sketch shows a new hat worn at
taurant by young woman who drew inc =
tention of the public to 1t the moment sne y
peared. 1t is bonnet of black satin, reacnIs
we'll down over the ears in way that is m,.
possible by the present couture, which perm.
the hair to cover the temples and the uPT
part of the ears.
This bonnet is soft and pliable, and the o..
satin is trimmed with gold cord and - n
nament made Of grosgrain ribbon, which n''
in place the two ostrich quilts.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05
How France Meets
Stormy Days

TVERY one who has been at the front,
X or miles behind it, in London, Scan
- dinavia or Spain, insists that it rain
eth every day" Even the French complain
more about the recent weather than they 90
about the shortage Of food.
The sketch shows a raincoat that woman
NAV wear in fair weather as well as foul.
II Is made of white, rubberized cloth, with
q deem belt of white suede run through sill
yer buckle. The body part is slim, the skirt
ia short, and the exceedingly convenient peck
cts are swung upward to the belt by bands
that are stitched TO the skirt. The deep cape
collar is Of periwinkle blue, edged with cord
Of The white cloth. The cuffs are turned back
,bsynIy over a tight sleeve and caught with
Nnksd buttons NJ silver.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

for being in a shop, and wants goods sent up
on approval as an added excitement to her
life. She may or may not buy. The merchants
know that. They take the enormous wastage
Of material as a matter of course, and they &C
cept the wastage in values which comes from
being compelled to throw millions Of dollars OF
returned goods on the counters at price
below cost.
They tell you that the system IS evil, but
they insist that each must do it because the
other does it. If the war wipes out both these
evils with one great, sweeping movement OF
the governmental hand then women, mer-
chants, shopping and valuations will be i'm
proved.
Despite the fact that the new color card for
1918 shows 144 coors the news that drifts
over from Paris gives one feeling that the
adoption of black and white will be insisted
upon for the autumn. The smartest women one
sees in this country are emphasizing unusual
and original combinations of black and white
in their costumes.
White muslins with black hats has been
constant fashion seen at all the resorts since
June. 1t is quite natural that these two colors
should hold their own despite the introduction
of ANYTHING else, and the woman who believes
in them and considers them trump cards 70
play at all seasons of the year whenever she
is in doubt about the rest of the fashion game
is secure in her belief if she accepts the inno-
vatons.
There arc, unfortunately, battalions OF
women who believe in black because they have
not the energy, inspiration or courage to seek
further afield in the color scheme of fashion
They buy a black suit because such a purchase
is along the line of least resistance. They
have an erroneous and futile idea that black is
always elegant and becoming. Extraordinary
Judgment, this! 1t should be sponged out of
the minds of women.
Black is a difficult color to wear. 1t can be
dowdy, unattractive, inelegant and common
place in more ways than any other color we
have In combination with white it can break
all laws of line, shadow and perspective.
Women should be trained to handle it with
care, as they would an explosive.
Dark blue has many Of the possibilities
which the majority claim for black, and 1t
may be said, in a sweeping manner, that IN
its deeper tones, known as crow and midnight,
the choice of it is playing for safety.
1t is from the French theatres that the re-
porters of fashion in France get their strong
conviction that original methods in black and
white, in combination, will take leading part
in the clothes to be ushered in during Septem-
Der.
1t takes an artist to originate new juxtapo-
sitions of white against black. Therefore, the
French artists and their American colleagues
are in high feather when they are working for
originality along this line.
Gowns on the French stage, as well as those
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

VT Is cabled from Paris that 144 colors have
been introduced into our autumn cos
tumery.
This is joyful news to the dressmaker, as
we'll as to the amateur in color schemes, but 1t
brings sense of depression to the artist. The
vast assembling of colors in one season Is eX-
cellent for the commerce of a country. 1t pro-
vides a persuasive plea to be used to coax the
coin out of purses it gives clerk something
20 talk about; it enhances the pleasure of shop
ding to the woman who is never certain what
she wants to wear; it gives to the inveterate
shopper-the woman who goes from store TO
store on pleasure bent, and who does not buy
enough in a season to warrant one shopping
.our-another chance to stimulate her excite
ment.
One is tempted to speculate on the reduc-
ton of the excitement that will come to that
kind of shopper if the no-sample law and the
no-returned-goods law come into effect this au-
tumn.
This country is going through the prellml-
naries of another great reform this summer
and it is possible that it may be in effect be-
fore the year 1918.
The selling of merchandise has been so Vlo-
lently competitive that each store has sung
siren song to women which has pandered TO
their weakness
Human nature was estimated at its true
value when the merchants knew that every
woman likes TO ask for samples as an excuse
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

collars and girdles of plaid silk and cloth.
There are patriotic plaids, so called, in chiffon
and gauze, which show a faint outline of ma
tional colors running across blue back
ground.
The marine cravat, in Scotch plaids, will be
widely offered as an enivening note on trocks
of sombre coors. such as blue, beige and sand
colors, jersey and serge.
In chiffon and other fragile fabrics, the
plaid design is not as allurng to the woman
with artistic tastes as the sumptuous bouquets
of half faded flowers known as the Pompadour
and Dresden designs, but it will be offered as
a variation from the commonplace. Hereto
fore we have not seen the Scotch plaids IN
afternoon and evening gowns, for their I'M
print has been made on sturdy cloth suitable
for street use, but it is prophesed from high
quarters that this state of affairs will change.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

Belt with Silver Buckle.
in mid-August in Paris this new movement of
the skirt will be accentuated AS fragile velvet
and fur will be the combination of the autumn,
these swinging panels from the waist will be
made of both fabrics
1t may have been known by the designers in
this country that the American army in France
would be supplied with mediava, sleeveless
Jenkins, lined with wool, for the trench
lighting.
Whether or not the designers were aware OF
this fact, it is curiously interesting that they
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

Raincoat of White Rubberzed Cloth, wit
Deep Collar of Periwinkle Blue. White Sued
Belt with Silver Buckle.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

n IME. JENNY gets the credit Of IN
lN PRODUCING the combination Of whit
- - orpandv and blue and white foulard
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

world t h a t does
like plaid has plen-
ty Of choice to
make among the
costumes that en-
body it.
There will be a
continuance of sep
arate S kirts IN
plaid. The accepted
fashion of a knife
pleated plaid skirt
below a black cloth
coat which has col
lar and cuffs of the
plaid has settled
this kind of cos
tune on the fash
ionable highways.
New suits and
frocks which will
soon be shown in
Paris have unusual
,rayats, gauntlet
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05
What We-Dressed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RITTEN4OUSE
MANY and Gay Coors in Women's Autumn Clothes

have introduced that garment in women's cos
tumery. 1t is minus the wool, but it is cut IN
the same manner and worn outside OF the
hours devoted to sport
II began its career in leather and 1t ended
in Lyons velvet and Russian kolinsky. 1t has
made wide appeal to women and designers
because it was introduced at the right moment
It is what our Sammies will wear in France.
It is in keeping with the emphatic trend to
hide the waistline when it is sharply marked
by the joining Of the shirtwaist and the sepa-
rate skirt. It caters to women's delight in the
juxtaposition of bright colors during the sum-
mer season. In the autumn, when built OF me
fabrics and trimmed with silky peltry. it will
add bit to the military swagger which we are
already beginning to get, and it provides a
way out of wearing the universal coat.
The person who does not like plaid need not
feel that the autumn will bring release from
it. Just the opposite is likely to occur. There
is no law that will make onc wear plaids and
checks if the taste is opposed to this design,
but the designers are going to see TO it that the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05
SEEN AT THE THEATRE
FRANCAIS

Gown Of Balsam Green, with Collar and Cuffs
of White Silk Muslin. Belt of Black and White
Patent Leather, with Cherry Red Buttons. White
Velour Hat with SHRED Crown Of Green Ribbon
Trimmed with Red Cherries. Worn by Mile.
Lillian Greuze, of the French Theatre.
worn at smart resorts in this country, show,
for instance, the revival of the polonaise, in
black satin lined with white satin, dropped
over skirt of white satin, with bodice
of black showing a waistcoat of white.
" The polonaise of the hour is not the
genuine poonaise Of Louis XIV's time.
1t is merely two long, slightly full
panels which are placed at the sides of the
skirt, which almost meet at the back and which
drop TO the knees.
In the new garments which will be shown
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

This variety may lead to ugly costumery by amateurs
Unusual and original combinations in black and
white will be put forth by the Paris designers-A new
kind of polonase will be brought out in velvet
frocks - Roman stripes more popular than ever
French rancoats that make the dullestdaysloolSgay
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-05

Dinner Gown Of Pale Yellow Tafeta The
Girdle Il Of Dresden Ribbon, in Pale Pink and
Black. The Skirt Has Panels Of the Yellow Silk
snd White Net Embroidered in Yellow.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
New Army viii Not Be Rushed
to Cartonlnent;; May Be Nov. |

accomplished and reported to the war
department.
Then at the eleventh hour Saturday
night word came from the war depart
ment that only those companies Of a
minimum strength of 100 men would
be accepted. .s-.
Norton Sends Wire
Congressman P. D. Norton wired
General Fraser regarding the Second
regiment, as follows: fH
Have again talked the matter over
fully with General Mann in regard to
Second North Dakota. General Mann,
as has been telegraphed you, says all
companies excepting company L have
been accepted into federal service to.
gether with all company officers who
are not under age limit.
AS soon as company L is recruited
up to minimum requirement the com.
panies will be organized as a regiment
All regimental officers will under the
circumstances necessarily have to be
appointed by the president.
General Mann assures me that all
these officers will be North Dakota
men and that there is little doubt that
the regimental officers recommended
by the governor will be approved by
the secretary of war and appointed by
the president.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Grey to Close Kittel
Affairs in Bankruptcy

Casselton, Aug. Oscar F. Grew.
Casselton, director of the First Ma.
tlonal bank of that city, was this
morning appointed receiver to handle
the bankrupt estates of R. c., Kittel &
Co., and NJ G. Kittel, R. C. Kittel and
W. - Kittel, who recently filed sched-
ules IN voluntary bankruptcy proceed
ings. =
Emerson H. Smith, referee, before
whom the first meeting of creditors
was held this morning, made the an.
pOintment.
Schedules of liabilities and assets
filed by the co-partnership known
as R. c. Kittel & Co., and the indi-
vidual brothers, reveal proceedings in
yolving total of over 100000.
r: G: Kittel & Co. $70,961.0O S 100000
NJ. 6. Kittel .138,119.46 26.380.25
t.. e. Kittel 49,. ..162,O88.13 141, 01O 90
w: +. Klttel 49,. 61,145.O8 22,S32.33
The schedules of assets filed bv r
g.. Kittel reveals that, for the most
part. the holdings are in shares of
stock y,
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Monthly Report Of
Y. c. Public Library

The monthly report of the public Ii.
brary for July shows that there were
1875 books drawn from the library and
that 925 people used the building for
reading or study. Perhaps tie most
interesting item in the report as com.
pared with July of 1916 is the advance
in the reading of non-fction, a gain
of one-twentieth. In this connection
the following clipping may be of in
terest:
In 1896, year very rich in books
and year filled with large world
events, by tar the largest class Of
books we read was fction-19.5 per
cent of the total production; while in
the still better days of good old 1895
our sedate elders read 23-1 per cent
OF fiction! On the other hand in the
unregenerate year of 1916, with eyerv
road crowded with automobiles and
every crossing glittering with motion
picture theaters, we read only S,91 per
cent fiction. ~
According to Mr.. Woodward's inter.
probation of his statistics the most
remarkable thing in the book nro.
duction in the last ten wears is the
growth of the non.fction class and the
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Government
Wants Horses

The government has recently work
ed out new plan for purchasing
holses for war purposes. This meth
cd is to buy direct from the farmers.
By this method the government hopes
to purchase horses a little more cheap
ly than it has been able to do in the
past and at the same time to pay the
farmer considerable more than he
has realized heretofore. ."
County agents have been authorized
to aid groups of farmers to market
their horses by this method. Any
farmers, therefore,, who have horses
for sale should get into touch with
their county agent, who will be glad to
give information as to the kind of
horses the government wishes, the
way to go about to dispose of them in
this way, and any other information
he is able to give. ..s'
Those interested should let their in.
terest be known soon as horses are
wanted now. -McNeal C. James,
=" County Agent
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Will Have Charge Of Rari-
tan Consolidated Schools

Fred V. Scudder, who for the past
two years mas been principal of the
Grand Prairie consolidated ;hool, ar
rived in. the city Monday from Vevay,
Ind, where he and Mrs. scudder have
been spending their vacation at his
parental home. Mr. Scudder was &C
companied by his brother, Eugene,
who will also teach in Barnes county
this year. .--0
MIR. and Mrs. F. v. Scudder will have
charge OF the Raritan consolidated
school south of Nome the ensuing
year. Mrs. Scudder until recently was
Mrs. Bertha Skadeland, of this city,
and is considered one of Barnes coun.
tvs best primary teachers.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Appeal Officers
for Each County

Bismarck, Aug. I'm compliance
with the request of the provost mar
shall general, Governor Lynn j. Fraz'
Ter has appointed special representa-
tives in each county in the state to
take appeals from the local exemption
board to the district board. These Of
ficers will act in the capacity of coun'
sci in carrying the appeals to higher
authorities. His appointments an
nounced this morning follow:
John Martin, Fargo.
Allen Hoople, Grafton.
Paul w. Lebo, Medora.
Victor WARDROBE, Minnewaukan.
+ j. j. Weeks, Bottineau.
Jacob Sonderall, Hettinger.
Edw. P. Totten, Bowman.
Fred B. Carter, Bowbells.
w. S. Wickersham, Glendale.
+ HI. Wick, Cavalier
Geo. Van Arnam, Wahpeton.
F. E. McCurdy, Bismarck.
G.. Crimson, Langdon.
Thos. G.. Johnson, Manning.
R. F. Rinker, New Rockford.
G. w. Burnham, Darlington.
Theo. Elton, Grand Forks.
I. N. Steen, Carson.
BENZ. Tufte, Cooperstown.
J. X. Murray, Mott.
F. c. Eastwood, Steele.
W.. N. Hutchinson, LaMoure.
Geo. w. McKinna, Napoleon.
J. H. Elsrud, Towner.
Hugo P. Remington, Ashley.
Geo. F. Shafer, Schafer.
John E. Williams, Washburn.
L. H. Connolly, Mandan.
r. J. Roberts, Lakota.
Robert Dunn, Center.
RollO F. Hunt Devils Lake.
J. Victor Backlund, Lisbon.
J.. p. organs, Mohall.
Has, A. Verret, Rolla.
S. A. Sweetman, Sargent.
Frank I. Temple, McClusky. i.
c. p. Brownlee, Amidon.
P. O. Satire, Sherebrooke.
j. w. Carr, Jamestown.
w. T. Maseley, Cando.
Carl L. Hort, Hillsboro.
0. B. Herrigstad, Minot.
J. A. Layne, Fessenden.
VIM. Owens, Williston.
Ccott Cameron, Linton.
B. M. Pierce, Crosby.
.. H. Des Irgens, Valley City, coun
ty judge.
J. p. severtson, Stanley.
J. T. Berdahl, Rugby.
y A.. J. Osborn, Dickinson.
Tom Smith, Beach.
Henry 10y, Stanton.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Forty.four students completed the
various curricula Of the State Normal
school and received diplomas at the
closing exercises in the auditorium
on Tuesday morning. Forty-three re.
ceived certificates on completing the
ten and one-half months curriculum
for rural school teachers.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
FEW REJECTED At JAMESTOWN

Jamestown, Aug. THE Stutsman
county exemption board today began
the examination of the first so of the
men to be examined to fill the Suits
man county's quota of the first draft
army. The average of exemptions al
lowed for physical disability thus far
mas been about 20 per cent. A large
percentage of the men took exemp-
ton blanks with them.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Miss Louise Halverson arrived on
No. 4 Tuesday from Hood River. Ore,
where she has made her home for the
past four years. Miss Halverson is a
daughter of John Halverson of this
city and sister of Lieut.. H. F. Hal
version, at whose homes she will visit
for some time.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Miss Nellie Farnsworth and nephew,
Lenly Harvey, left Wednesday for
Fargo where they will visit few
Gays with Miss Farnsworth's sister,
Mrs. Geo. Hubbel. From there they
Will go to River Falls, Wis, to spend
their vacation with relatives at lake
near that city.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Abandon Plan P for Big
Fleet Of U-Boat Chasers

Washington, Aug. 7.-Plans for the
construction of a fleet of 1000 sub.
marine chasers have been abandoned
by the navy department. Instead
the navy will concentrate on the
construction Of destroyers, the most
formidable foe of submarines; and
expand it's plans for arming mer-
chant ships travelling through the
war zone.
The department will complete con
struction of small boats now under
contract and they will be shipped to
England when completed to assist the
British patrol, but the present plan
is to stop the construction of wooden
chasers there.
This change of attitude towards
the little craft and their value in
fighting submarines is considered the
first step in a new general policy
which this government is expected
to pursue in fighting the German
subsea menace.
chasers Not Success
Vice Admiral Sims is understood
to have reported in favor of the
change because he has become con
WINGED that the present policy fol
lowed by the British navy will never
dispose of the submarines.
Great Britain has thousands O
these boats patroling the war zone
The records of shipping destroyed
; by submarines shows that they hav,
assisted in holding the destruction
campaign in check, but have not re
duced it to any considerable degre,
and that there is no reason for be
lieving that they ever can eliminat
the submarine.
! The first effect of the discontinu
ance of the original chaser buildin
program will be to release thousand
of shipbuilders for other work and t.
divert construction materials to 9th
er tonnage.
Pin Faith to Destroyers
The department will continu
building destroyers as rapidly a
possible. The navy is satisfied tina
this type of ship is of infinitely NOR
value in fighting submarines thai
the fast wooden cbasers. The me-
who have been employed on the frs
batch of chasers will be. used whel
ever possible on constructing tn
new fleet of wooden merchantmen
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09
Normal Confers a Diplomas
Tuesday AT Closing Exercises

DR.. R. A. Beard, pastor Of the First
Congregational church Of Fargo, de-
livered the address OF the day. Sew
eral appropriate musical numbers,
were included on the program. The
exercises marked the close of the
summer term Of the State Normal
school. Those who received diplomas
are named below:
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Miss Fannie Dunning left on the
early 500 Wednesday morning for
Shennendoah, Iowa, to visit friends.
Miss Dunning has been one of the in
structors in primary methods in the
Normal summer school, During the
school year she has had charge Of one
OF the primary departments in the
Helena, Mont, city schools.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Miss Hattie Krampitz, who has been
a guest of the Misses Martha and Al.
gusta Hackbarth for the past ten days,
returned to her home at Buffalo, Mimi,
Tuesday morning.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Mrs. William F. Hills, of Minneapo.
lis, is a guest of her son, C. X. Hills,
of the Sheyenne flats. She will visit
here the rest of the summer months.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Mr.. and Mrs. Levi Petersen, of Litch.
vile, were visitors in the city Tuesday
evening coming over to attend the
Company G. dance at>the K. P. hall.
The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1917-08-09

Wednesday morning Miss Fannie
G.. Amidon went to Fargo where she
Will be the guest of her brother, Judge
G.. r. Amidon and family for several
weeks. Before her return Miss Ami
don will take an extensive lake trim
through the Great Lakes,