Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-08-12
New French Gowns Reflect Welcome to u. S. Tr0

outside impressions. This Is wen. for
no woman can quite forgive oven the
Of every hard object she touches.
Gabardine will remain in fashion.
Georgette crepe will have an unusual
degree Of success. Brocade. tn-ths
metallic Powered design to which We
are quite accustomed. will be used Tor
evening capes as relief from velvet
and lavishly heaped with peltry. That
brilliant Egyptian blue so well beloved
by artists is shown in evening wraps
of brocade with flowers of silver.
Three dominating shades of dark blue
are used for street and afternoon
an especial point of using one or an OF
these shades in the majority OF its cos
tunes.
Beige, which we have worn in an un-
counted number Of gowns. is offered for
the early autumn. although II is doubt
full whether It will remain in fashion
during the cold weather. 1t Is intro
duced for evening, which is a novelty,
when II is draped with golden brown
tulle and trimmed with gold braid and
embroidery.
The deep red shades will be as DOM
inant dark blue. to Judge from the
first expression in clothes at the Paris
exhibitions. The American public has
always liked garnet, claret, magenta
and terra Gotta, although the latter
cannot be included in the dark red list
popularity, however, is dSSuISQ- All
the French dressmakers have put bit
of IL into their costumes. and there are
street suits of IT touched with black.
There is a shade of red called Indian.
which France is offering as something
unusual and lovely. Lanyin has gown
IN IL. The material IS georgette and the
combined color is beige. There is slip
of the Indian red. and over this q
medieval chemise without sleeves, ac-
Gordon pleated, and held in by loose
belt covered with a design which Is
familiar to those who are stopped at
every station in the far west by In
dams offering their wares.
There is a division among the en-
broiderers in France. Some cling to
the horiated designs which have run
through French history like the French
language. Others take up the primitive
Indian designs and use them boldly and
effectively. They have searched through
the documents of the Indian races OF
all countries for their patterns There
is striking similarity which II would
be up to Prof. Henry Fairfield Osborne
to explain. between all Indian design
ing, ancient and modern.
Evidently. Paris has no intention OF
letting go the long. primitive tundc a.
a first feature of fashion. She exploits
it this August with and without sleeves.
preferring the latter shape.
There is again the Chinese touch In
sleeves. given by the severity of cut
line the laxity at the waist line and the
bold designing that is somewhere at
tached to the surface.
Whatever the tunic, 1t is used over An
exceedingly narrow slip Of another ma
teral. Some of the houses cling to a
continuity of color from neck to hem.
| Others. like Lanvin and her type OF
| colorst play in a dexterous manner
with the combination of colors by add
| ing a slip of one thing, tunfc OF an
| other and an embroidery which COM
| bines the two colors or. ignoring them
| entirely goes off on a tangent of its
own and simply submits to harmony.
1t was a much less simple task Tor
| the hatmakers of France to fncorpo-
rate United States Army fashion. fea-
| The Rough Rider crown attracted In
| slant attention all over Paris. sharing
| the honors with the mud-colored tan
| mel shirt open at the neck. which 10 .
| new touch in European uniforms.
The city of Paris has presented .
| Kaleidoscope commingling of uniforms
| for two years, for every allied soldier
on leave gets his touch of Paris. Even
| the little midinette in that city knows
| the distinctive features of the uniform
| of every important country in. the
world, and the coming of the American
| soldiers gave another touch to her col
| lection.
i The hat and shirt were the things
| that caught the popular fancy, and IN
! stantly the milliners saw to II that tho
hat was used by them. Its high crown
contributed to the fashion of the hour.
as the milliners have decreed IL. but
with the high crown a number of artis-
| tic milliners have permitted a sweep
| ing. graceful brin.
| The one hat that seems to be ignored
| by Paris this season is the kind America
| wore last summer and autumn very
| wide crown and a low brim.
| G In IS