davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1917-09-30

believe that sealskin coats, diamond
solitaires and ostrich feathers are still
the symbols of wealth.
What was true of France quick be-
came true of England Although
plumes are selling there today at $50
and 800 apiece, because of reduction in
supply, there are buyers aplenty for
them. 1t is expected that the industrial
condition of America VIII be the same
as that which has prevailed in England
and France during the latter part of
the war, and that the women, who are
the real spenders Of a nation, will buy
clothes more lavishly and recklessly
than they have for a century. The rea-
son for this is that they are taking the
places of men and getting money to
spend without asking men for it.
AS for the ostrich feather in America
1t is slowly making its appearance. but
1t is sponsored by many good houses
that no doubt it will appear on many
hats when the cold weather comes
Hatter's plush is strongly .indorsed
by the milliners for women's street
hats. 1t will also be used for the brims
of the large picture hats which have
collapsible velvet crowns. Fortunately
for the majority of women, the bell
shaped hat which was in fashion last
summer will be retained for the win
ter in this new material.
The aviators turban. which is OBJ
long. is being introduced in jet sequins.
with quill of spangles placed across
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Carried Away in Retreat.

Under the eyes Of a watching world
one Of the greatest army movements
in the history Of war took place on our
western front. While both in our coun-
try and outside of it there was a great
deal of talk about a retreat and of a
"SieRfried line" there had been pre-
pared the immense machinery with in
Vulnerable trains and columns to move
the German front. together with the re-
sources of the territory behind 1t, to a
new place.
Inasmuch as nothing was to be left
for our opponents that was of any
value whatsoever. everything that
could be saved was seized by this great
organization and made use of. This
great machine worked SO minutely that
the most important works of art out
Of the destroyed zone were seized and
taken to nearby cities which were not
vet under the FIRE of the enemy. Pc
rome Noyon. Coucy and Laon are
known to the laity as seats OF Al 90.
ctent culture. 1t was most important,
however. to save the art of st. Quentin.
which could not have been replaced. or
course the wonderful old houses could
not be protected. The proud basiiica
Of St. Quentin crumbled into ruins
under the increasing shell fire OF the
enemy, but all that was valuable to art
in the public and private collections
of the city was saved and in many
thousand boxes was shipped to Maui
beuge.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Cathedral Treasures Here.

Walls were torn down, new ones were
ceilings and the walls were covered with
silk that had been saved Soon the rooms
had sufficient light and area and GER
tain uniformity that made them ideal for
the visitor. Entering the museum, we find
first display of sculptures taken from
churches and ancient tapestries. Here is
an old baptisrnal fount from the eleventh
century which comes from the parochlal
school in Vermand. Here are also i'm
portant works of art from the cathedral
at st. Quentin. Two paintings of St tluln-
tinuS, patron saint Of the city, are ancient
works In one instance there is a. marble
statue Of the saint, which stood originally
over the north portal Of the cathedral.
The museum also contains. among other
things. a number of valuable Gobelins:
remarkable among them being two OF
Flemish origin, depicting three scenes from
the life Of John the Baptist. made about
the year 1900, and THE Return Of To
bias" from the seventeenth century. In
another room, fitted out as an empire
salon, we find the marble of Napoleon by
Canova. The paintings here are mostly
from Valenciennes and by Joseph Vernet,
made In the latter part of the eighteenth
century. Notable is the work of Ger
man, Johann Rottenhammer etching
on copper. Another German represented
here is c. w. e Dietrich, 1712-I744. In
the rooms known as the white salon and
the green room are shown a collection Of
over eighty pastels by La Tour which he
had given the city Of his birth. ST. Quen-
tin. Among these may be named the por-
trait Of Marc-Rene d'Arenson. made in
1852; Chardin. La Tours famous friend.
drawn in 1740; the bust of Mile. Eel
Prince Xavier Of Saxony and the portrait
Of Perroneau done in 1850. The rooms
also contain much famous porcelain.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

the street, offered as a substitute for
tailored suits, have fitted, medieval
corselets made of braid.
Careless cravats on the most formal
suits gain in Importance. This kind of
neckwear started in Paris last May. but
the American dressmaker did not take
1t seriously until the new autumn
models arrived.
These cravats are made of the cloth
of the suit, lined with a fanciful fabric,
or they embody brilliant color
scheme, which has many advantages in
that it brightens the suit and often
makes it more becoming to the wearer.
So far, the high. stiff military coat
collar has not appeared. but every
other kind of collar that mounts to the
chin has been employed to supply the
demand for high neckwear.
The trench muffler is delighted in by
many women. whether it is made of fur
or cloth. 1t almost disguises the face,
it envelops so much of the lower part
of it.
Ostrich plumes are slowly coming
back into fashion. Paris provided them
for the great middle class of women
who suddenly became well to do
through high salaries. These women
Evening star., 1917-09-30
RED CROSS NOW CARING
FOR SICK FRENCH BABIES
Entire Repatriated Families Arrive
Condition.
at Evian in a Pitiful

Repatriated French families are being
aided by the Red Cross commission in
France. and in this connection a cable
gram was received last night by the
Red Cross war council from Mai. Gray
son NJ. p. Murphy. 1t is as follows:
Two trains of French rapatries con-
tanning 1000 people. 60 per cent of
whom are women and children. arrive
daily in Evian homeless, sick. terror
lied after three years of captivity. The
American Red Cross is cooperating with
the government and a local committee
in the care of these people.
"On September DIR. William p Lucas,
chief of the childrens bureau of the
commission, started the American Red
Cross medical work for the children of
the rapatries pouring into Evian daily.
These children are in very poor condi-
ton, many suffering from tuberculosis.
skin and infectious diseases.
The American Red Cross is opening
a dispensary in connection with the re-
ceiving bureau at Evian. and an acute
hospital of thirty beds for the sickest
children. convalescent hospital of 120
beds at Thonon. near Evian. is being
taken over by the Red Cross and plans
are being made for a larger convalescent
hospital of $50 beds at St Joseph du
Lac, near Evian.
"One American nurse has been in charee
of 120 beds for sick children for eight
months and the results with the eager
equipment have been marvellous The
American Red Cross has sent seven am
balances to Evian for transports ton of
sick children to the hospitals. This was
an acute need, sick and exhausted
women and children can now be handled
by automobiles instead of trains"
Evening star., 1917-09-30
DEFENSE LEAGUE MEETINGS.
Schedule for Precincts for This
Week Announced.

The schedule for the precinct meet
ings of the Home Defense League for
this week is as follows:
Monday-No. 1 at 7:45 o'clock at Hol-
ton Arms School. 1742 Church street;
No at 1870 o'clock at st. Dominic's
Hail. 9Th and F streets southwest; No.
4 at 7;45 o'clock at Business High School
Tuesday-No. 2 at s o'clock at the
second police precinct.
Wednesday-No. at s o'clock at East
ern High School: No. at o'clock at
Gonzaga Hall; No. at 7:45 o'clock at
Western High School.
Thursday-No. IL at s o'clock at elev-
enth police precinct, Anacostia-
Friday-No. Q at o'clock at Masonic
Hall, Sth and + streets northeast.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
La Tour Pastels Saved.

Anticipating the coming events. the
chief commander of the army in charge
had turned this work over to Lieut.. Won
Hadeln. the art connoisseur. Means OF
transportation and labor were limited
Therefore only certain objects could be
chosen among the works of art. In the
first instanc was the Lecuyer collection.
the famous pastels by La Tour. There
were also numerous paintings and
sculptures by French artists. In this
instance as well as in that of the col
lection OF FervaQueS and other collec-
t.ors in tie raiace of Justice, notably
-. ...s-at Nbia.ry. emphasis WAS placed
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Germans Build Museum.

The question of housing these treas
ures was soon solved. AS the work had
to be done well, it was not feasible to
place the treasures in a storehouse.
Some time earlier, when the French
city administration of ST. Quentin
placed the La Tour pastels in the cellar
Of the museum, mold formed, traces
of which even now show on the pic
lures. The pictures and valuable books
from the palace of justice We're dam
aged to some extent by being kept in
chests of unseasoned wood. Since it
was necessary to unpack these paint
ings, the army solved the question by
constructing in Maubeuge museum of
the most valuable of the works of art,
calling it "Au Pauvre Diable" tThe Poor
Devil'D. The army authorities assigned
as additional help the Berlin architect.
Lieut.. Keller, and turned over the cafe
"Au Pauvre Diable" for an exposition
building.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
FAIRFAX FAIR THIS WEEK.

The annual fair at Fairfax. Va. Will
begin Wednesday and continue three
days. This is a big event in Fairfa1
county, and many residents of Wash
ington who formerly resided in the
county make it point to go to the
family reunion on the grounds.
Representative c. c. Carlin 10 ak
pected to speak on the second day, and
on the last day Westmoreland DAviat
democratic candidate for Governor Of
Virginia, and Harris Hart. candidatO
on the democratic ticket for state ou-
perintendent Of public instruction, VIII
be present and will speak. An un-
the county and of the work Of the
county public schools viii be madA
Evening star., 1917-09-30

bronzes period furniture and such pieces
as the Spinner in marble by Lenglet,
and The Park of st. Cloud by Adolf
in this museum The museum is opened
both to the military and the French pub
lie. but it is principally designed for the
days of toll they might find here an OPP
portunity to refresh themselves. 1t is
museum that has been saved from the
smoke and the ruins of the catastrophe.
War and culture, which try to avoid each
other. meet here. and they have been
brought together by the artistic instinct
of German barbarians.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

upon savings all works that might have
even a local significance.
1t was most difficult to save the beau
tiful painted glass from the choir of
the Gothic cathedral. A detachment of
pioneers was assigned to this work
with the cooperation of a German
master of art glass. The windows,
thirty-six feet high, were removed.
bardment they were transported, until
our losses made il necessary for us to
cease work. A little later in quiet
hour. pioneers forming divisions that
happened to be near St Quentin contin-
ued this effort and were able to save
MANY q costly work of art
Evening star., 1917-09-30
MINERS DEMAND RAISE.
Immediate Action by Operators Urg.
ed Awaiting Price Dispute.

A wide division developed yesterday
between coal operators and miners of
the central competitive field, in con-
ference here, discussing proposed
'eadjustment of wage scales. The
miners demanded an immediate tenta-
i've increase in wages awaiting the
fuel administration decision as to an
upward revision of coal prices, but the
operators refused their request and
proposed a ten-day suspension of ne
yotiations.
Kentucky and Tennessee coal op-
erators and miners. here to take up
yith the fuel administration readjust
ment of the miners wage scale. also
failed to reach an agreement. The
operators are willing to grant wage
Evening star., 1917-09-30
GUARDS TAKE TWO CoNvICTS.
Colored Prisoners Removed From
Fairfax TO Richmond,

FAIRFAX, Va, September 2s.-Guards
from the penitentiary at Richmond ar
rived in Fairfax this morning and left
in the afternoon with William Burgess,
colored, under sentence of death for
criminal assault on Miss Mary Davis of
Clifton, and William Adams, colored,
sentenced to ten years in the penf-
tentiary for an assault on his step
daughter, Sue BowIes. Adams was found
guilty in the circuit court here Friday.
Burgess was sentenced September 19
and will be electrocuted between the
hours of am. and noon Friday, Oc-
tober 26.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Country Divided Into Divisions.
Military Relief Work Growing.

The large assembly room the Sec
ond fioor Of the Red Cross building which
has been divided into small offices for the
war council. has been turned over to the
expanding activities Of the department of
military relief. The war council in turn
has taken over the entire third floor of
the main building. BY the reduction in
the number of employees 1t has been pos
sible to remove many desks from the
halls of the building. which the sudden in
crease of Red Cross activities in the
spring made necessary.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

A Red Cross parade in which 25.000
Red Cross workers and nurses will par
ticipate will be held in New York city
next Thursday. The demonstration
the first of its kind ever arranged by
the Red Cross, is intended as an honor
to Red Cross nurses now serving ir
war hospitals and as send-off for
those that will embark for war service
in Europe.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Fashions and Fads.

Fashions and Fads. Il
vsiIs nuttsr svsrywhsre. igg
Blouses are trimmed with nIs&
Belt buckles are very elaborate
New wells arc worn under the hat
Fur trimmings are we'll thought OF
Tailored blousss have high eoIlara
Eur collars VIM be worn very high.
Braoksn brown 10 . charming new
color.
Gloves have euns Of contrasting
color.
Draperies are apt to be one-sfdedL
Pocketbooks are being made Of
ribbon.
All sorts and sizes of hats win Be
Deer brown is one Of the pretty new
Checks may be bought to match
plain fabrics.
A novelty wool velour is known .s
wool brocade.
Separate skirts are pleated and made
of satin.
Crystal fastenings are fashionable
on gloves.
Wool embroideries are done in Chinese
designs.
Many new blouses have sleeves
above the elbow.
Sleeves must Mt the arm from arm
hole to wrist
Children's frocks generally follow
straight lines.
The new fur-trimmed coats have
huge square collars.
Navy blue dresses have a touch OF
American Beauty.
Navy blue serge is among the best
colors for winter.
The dark plaid silk waists have sew
eral colors in them.
Stitched felt hats are among the new
sporting millinery.
Every chic woman's wardrobe con-
tains a tailored suit.
Fine blonde lace is used extensively
for evening wear.
Embroideries are showing Chinese
and japanese effects.
Fur plush is one of the new substi-
tutes for fur trimming.
Moleskin coats are to be the tiptop
Of fashion this winter.
Saucer-shaped buttons with small
knob centers are favorites.
Circular capes are gradually taking
the place of the sweater.
Children are having the winter
dresses made of soft. warm materials
Figured challis makes an ideal
school dress for the small sister.
Beige. taupe and gray silk stockings
are worn with black shoes.
Metal passementeries will be used
on woolen suits and dresses.
Fur and lace are prominent for the
garniture of afternoon gowns.
Fabrics are much used for bags ON
account of the scarcity of leather.
Fur will be no less used as a trim-
ming on suits than it has been
Pongee makes a most attractive and
practical winter dress for small girls.
Silver gauZe and tissue are likely to
be much used for autumn evening
toilets.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

increases only on condition that the
government fix higher coal prices.
The central competitive field dis
pute will be taken up again as soon
as the KentuckyTennessee situation is
settled.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
Ward to Be Increased.

With the advent Of the war it be-
came necessary to increase the size of
the Washington ward. and Mrs. Gran
vile Fortescue organized committee
to obtain the funds and equipment for
this purpose, and Is the chairman of
its committee.
The Washington ward headquarters
are at 1901 Connecticut avenue, in a
small shop kindly loaned by Robert
wilkins. and the workrooms are at 1928
18th street, given by Gilbert Grosvenor
for use during the summer and au-
tumn.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
FRENCH ART SAVED;
GERMANS TELL HOW
La Tour PasteIs and Other
Treasures Removed to
Maubeuge.

The destruction of Peronne, Bapaume, Lens
and other French towns In the path Of the war
has led allied observers to ask what has become
Of innumerable ancient art works that were the
treaeuree Of France in these cities. The follow.
inr extract from an article in Ueber Land und
Neer, q German magazine, written for a Ger
man reading public. clears up to some extent
~ unynteYy OF what has become Of them.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

manner He also clings fast to his Won
derful tones of red. some of which he
invented He has brought back the
broad striped fabrics Of the French
Evening star., 1917-09-30
RED CROSS REDUCESTS
STAFF OF PAID EMPLOYEES
National Headquarters Establishes
Decentralized System of Ad-
ministration. /

Through the establishment of decen-
traliZed system of administration the staff
OF paid employees of the national head
quarters of the American Red Cross has
been reduced nearly 3S per cent in the
past two months, according to an an
nouncement today of III. ID. Gibson. gen.
eral manager The staff of 700 paid em-
ployes has been cut to 437, with an in
crease in volunteers serving without pay
to seventy-three as against sixty-one two
months ago.
Country Divided Into Divisions.
Under the new system, the country has
been divided into thirteen divisions, each
under the direction of volunteer man
ager. who has charge of Red Cross work
in his division. These division offices cor
respond to national headquarters, with
experts in charge OF each phase of Red
Cross activity, working under the di-
rection of national officers in this city.
While war work in nearly all government
departments has been increasing beyond
all previous records, the Red Cross has
relieved this congestion at national head
quarters. Numerous office changes at
headquarters have followed the opera ton
Of the new plans.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

usually large sleeves placed in low
armholes. Neither of these features
contribute to the slimness of the &C
cepted silhouette, yet they are consid-
Evening star., 1917-09-30

revolution. He exploits the triangle de-
sign of the primitive races when he
wishes to elaborate a somber surface.
Several of the best topcoats have un-
Evening star., 1917-09-30

If you want work read the want COL
umns of Tho stan
Evening star., 1917-09-30

cred very good because they're coma
Portable.
The difficulty in the smart topooata
OF last season was in the tight ARM
hole and small sleeve. These two coms
oineo kept one from wearing the coat
over any KIND OF frock without ruin
Ing the latter. as well as ones temper.
Evening star., 1917-09-30
PILLOWS ARE SHIPPED
TO NEU|L[Y HOSPITAL
Legion of Loyal Women Still Needs
Feathers for Future
Shipments.

The Legion of Loyal Women, Mrs. Ada
II. Weiss, president, appointed by the
Washington ward of the American Hos
pital at Neuilly France, as the pillow
committee, last week shipped seven
boxes of pillows. with the necessary
pillowcases The boxes contained fifty
pillows. 24x25. with four pounds of
feathers in each; two hundred pillow
cases and forty-four small down pillows
with extra cases. Another and larger
box is ready, to be shipped October 1.
Those who can donate pillows or
feather beds are asked to address Mrs.
Weiss, 2S09 North Capitol street. who
will send for such contributions. AS
all feathers are renovated and put into
new ticking, there need be no delay
through desire to freshen up pillows
and bedding that have been stored
away.
To Care for Americans.
The American Hospital at Neuilly was
organized at the outbreak of the Euro
pean war by Americans in Paris for
the care and treatment of wounded
French and their allies. With the ap-
pearance Of American troops in the
French battle line. the purpose of this
hospital will be also to care for Amer
lean wounded. =
A practical method of assisting the
work of this hospital has been through
the formation OF wards supported by
various American cities.
Mrs. Louise Pippard. inspired by
letter from her nephew. Lieut.. Richard
Cary, describing the efficient care he
received at the American Hospital, un-
dertook last winter to raise the funds
for the equipment of a Washington
ward Through her efforts an allies
hospital ball" was organized, which
netted s2,22o. The Evening Star un-
dertook the collection of further sub
scriptions, and before the end of last
January the necessary sum OF $4,000
was subscribed.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

Fur will be no less used as a trim.
ming on suits than it has been.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

Pongee makes a most attractive and
practical winter dress for small girls.
Evening star., 1917-09-30

Fabrics are much used for bags on
account of the scarcity Of leather.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-12-12
J. H. McRoberts $50. Correspondent
G. H. KAiekerbocker -. Distributor


Yhe defense in the Dunning insaa
ity trial called its second witness yes
terday and She was stili on the stand
when court adjourned at o'clock
w. A. Willis, brother OF Mrs. Dun
ming, was the second witness called
by the defense and he was On the
stand nearly all day. The direct ex-
animation lasted until after the noon
recess and then Attorney w. Fl. Hart
zelle started the cross examination.
Willis gave his age as SIS. He lives
on farm near New Boston Mrs.
Dunning has been living IN anothe
house on his farm for the past few
months and they have been very con
fidentisl He testified that she had
asked his opinion in practically every
transaction she has made during her
entire life He also related many
facts concerning their business affairs
and said that he considered Mrs. Dun
ming of sound mind and capable Of
transacting the ordinary business af-
fairs of life.
Mr.. Willis was given the closest
cross examination of any witness who
has appeared In the case so far by At
torney Hartzelle for the petitioners
Much effort was exerted to disclose
some act which would show an i'm
proper procedure in their business az
fairs and also to show an undue in
/ huence exerted over Mrs. Dunning By
/ her brother.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-12-12
RED Cross Speakers Coming.

Three meetings have been planned
for the Red Cross Christmas member
ship drive which will be started Dec.
81 The meetings win be held in diff
ferent places in the county this week
as an opener for the big campaign
which will be started the last Of the
month. The first meeting is set for
Tuesday evening in Keithsburg Rob-
ert c. Fraser, who has been at the bat
tie front in France, will address the
meeting at that time. Friday evening
the second meeting will be held in
this city at the First Methodist Epis-
copal church at O'clock Congress
man Albert Johnson, who has Just re-
turned from France, where he visited
the western front, will speak on that
occasion, and the third meeting of the
series is set for Matherville opera
/ house Sunday afternoon at 2 o'clock.
/ Several speakers will be present, but
mo definite arrangements have been
made yet
! All the meetings viii be in the in
( terest of the Red Cross and will be
/ conducted by that organization. No