davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1917-02-12
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TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1917-02-12

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TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1917-02-12
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TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1917-02-12
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TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1917-02-12

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South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
NEW Fur FOR WINTER.

"Gaspardine" Is the name OF the
new fur which is 20 be popular next
winter, so recent reports from Paris
tell us Already costumers and de-
signers are showing fur trimmed
suits. coats. collars. stoles and nuns
made or the material. Patriotic CO
operation between the furriers and
the soldiers will result In a strong
demand for this fur. as II Is moth
ing more or less than the skins OF
rats that infest the trenches. Some
soldiers spend their spare time kill
ing rats, and many have terriers at
the front, and as there is a bounty
on each head killed tidy sums OF
extra money are realized. IL is 10 aid
the soldiers that the fashion max
ers are popularizing "gaspardine."
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
Out Of Door Designs on English Chints

There is something coy and
home-like I'm the very name or Eng
hsh ChintZ. Just 20 look at the
brigh >olors. the gay little faces of
the fcFsers In the patterns. the deft.
debonair method by which the de
signs grow on the fabric. gives one a
pleasant, cool sense OF the out-of-
doors. OF growing things, woods and
fields, birds and running water. 1t
is this atmosphere Of the country
life that inheres in these old chintzes
which has made them so popular I'm
modern schemes Of cottage decora-
ton.
The chintz was the tapestry cover
OF the peasants chairs. and the dra-
perry Of his windows giving warmth
and color 10 the otherwise barren
appearance of his cottage.
Further, II reflects his simple
horticultural tastes. for the brilliant
ly colcred roses. pansies, and convol-
vgluses which shine prominently on
all the glazed surfaces Of the cloth
afe those flowers which are always
10 be found in his garden" says
Hugh Phillips, in a delightful chap
ter on old English chintz, in Arthur
Hayden's book, Chats on Cottage
and Farm Furniture These Chintzes
or printed cottOns were the only dec
grafton known 10 the village up
hOlsterer. for many years-eveu
when city silk weavers were making
rich hangings Of velvet and silk for
the homes Of the wealthy, and Gov
ering their chairs with silk brOcade
and costly needle work and damask.
Authorities tell us that even today.
I'm rural communities in Europe.
these same simple prints are used as
decorations. many of them being of
such durable quality, and the colors
being so fast that time has only
mellowed. not faded, the rich blues
pinks. greens and puppies. stamped
in so surely by the old cloth print
ers of the 18th and 18th centuries.
Later, when the aristocrats of
England and the continent would be
pastoral in their modes Of living
these same old prints became fash
ionable, and IL was at this point that
their simplicity began 20 retire into
the remote villages where fashions
breath could not corrupt the great
artistic value Of the early simplicity
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
Convenient Laundry Station

Have you established laundry sta
tons in your home? They are such a
convenience TO the housekeeper with
a two or three or four-story house
TO look after that, when she has
once tried them. she will wonder
how she ever got along before she
thought OF them. At least, that is the
testimony OF one woman living in
one of those tall, narrow houses
which make up our closely packed
city blocks, and another woman with
a three story house in the suburbs
agrees with her.
The city woman began the CONVEX
sation. She and the lady from the
suburbs and another friend from
the country were iunching in town
together. It was Monday-tine-
honored as wash day-and each one
of the three was a housekeeper, and
loved and took pride in the care and
management of her home. The talk,
as talk frequently will. when it is A
question OF the home that is under
discussion, 1rifted TO the ever en-
crossing subject of household help.
And. as has been pointed out, the
day was thar one commonly set aside
for doing the family washing.
The lady from the suburbs began
It. Have you a laundry chute in
your house?' she inquired of the city
woman. II wish that l had one"
she continued; when we build
house for ourselves, that is to be one
of the essential features, along with
the fre-places and sleeping porches,
outdoor dining room, and such con-
veniences. In the meantime, my good
Mary and 1 have worked out a
scheme chain, you might call it,
perhaps-of laundry stations. On
each floor we have placed, in a
strategic position, a neat, willow
laundry hamper. On the main floor,
it is in one corner of the little hall
which leads from the front part of
the house 10 the kitchen, convenient
for everybody. We have a tiny lava
tory where we can wash our hands
when We come in from the garden
ing, which opens off the same small
hall, and it is easy enough to collect
the towels each day and drop them
into the hamper next door.
"On the second floor we have
larger hamper in the bathroom
which does duty for that section OF
the house, and on the third we have
another willow hamper which
stands out Of sight, though cOnven-
- - a
in a curtained alcove off the hall. II
is a crude arrangement, but it sim
plifies the wash day collections, hav-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

siye shop had a corset cover Of silk
wolfe and a triple skirt of soft silk.
The corset cover was embroidered in
black but had pink ribbon straps
over the shoulders.
French embroidered lingerie now
has a rival in the Filipino hand
embroidered garments. These lat
ter have been growing in popularity
and since the war and the scarcity as
well as high cost of the French UNI
derwear there has been a swerving
toward the revival of hand embroid-
cry.
LOw-hecled Sport shoes.
With sports clothes, service suits
and simplicity frocks comes suitable
footwear. Low-heeled half shoes
with sensible lasts are worn for
sports. Some of these shoes have
spring heels, others have heels
three-quarters of an inch high. and
often the soles and heels are of rub
Der. This does not mean that the
foot comes in contact with the rub
Der, however, for there is a thick
ness of leather between the outside
sole and the foot White is worn a
great deal for summer. Gray is very
fashionable, and. of course. brown
and black are standard.
For wearing with elaborate after
noon frocks are low shoes with high
heels, either French or Cuban
Louis.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

II is from such regions that the best
has come down 10 us. The early
cloth printer was delightfully."- indie
pendent OF solid patterns, but wan
dered at viii into designs OF exquisite
beauty. ne might use every pattern
Of nature and initiate her colors as
much as any painter
Before the renaissance. there is
little trace Of chintz printing Just
who was the first chintz printer IN
England is not automatically Known,
but that chintz printing was import
ed from Holland and France is gen
orally conceded. The influx Of calico
printers began about the time Of the
Huguenots' persecution in France.
These refugees settled I'm and about
London. and began the weaving of
silks and the printing Of chintz. The
author Of the hook mentioned above
gives some interesting old prints OF
these weavers at their work, and
thus describes the prints:
"A printer is standing at a table
upon which is stretched a length of
cloth which falls in folds on the
floor He holds in his hands a
wooden block, which he is applying
at intervals TO the cloth. The other
hand contains a mallet. which is
about TO strike the wooden block
and stamp the color firmly into the
threads Of the material. Behind
him is an apprentice boy standing
over a tub of color, preparing the
blocks for his master to use"
The application Of color had to be
made by hand with a brush, because
the application Of blocks had not
been mastered The material in the
DAYS of Charles II. James ii, and
William and Mary. was rough, so
much so that these rare and valu
able old coverings were later hidden
beneath more fashionable fabrics.
Some old walnut chairs have been
found with chintz buried beneath
some ugly Victorian hoTsehair.
In Queen Anne's time. the chintz
printers became prosperous. Their
work. owing to its increasing deli
cacy, met with great public approval,
and it began TO supplant woven
silks for the purposes Of coverings
and dresses. AS a result, there arose
bitter rivalry between the silk
weavers and the calico printers. in
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

waist and on skirt OF white organ
die. The collar is trimmed with rows
OF hand-run stitching OF heavy silk
in the cOlors OF the plaid.
Every once in a while some in
genious person, running out OF new
ideas dips back into her girlhood
for something old to be made new.
In some such way as this the rick
rack braid of years ago has reap
peared on very modern dresses. espe-
cially that all-popular. all-practical
bingham frock. Sometimes it trims
collars and cuffs, sometimes it edges
tucks besides, while again il is add
ed 20 the bottom Of a skirt
Black Lingerie Next.
In Paris. it is said, that the girls
once working in the laundries have
abandoned them for work in the
munition plants. To this is attribut-
ed the popularity OF black lingerie.
Yes. 1 said it, black lingerie! Black
cOrsets, cbemises and even black
combinations. Silk wolfe, crepe de
chine and pongee seem TO be the
materials largely employed, also the
glove silk which has been so popu-
lar in white and the dainty colOrs. A
black combination which I saw dis
played in the window of an exclu-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

managed 10 quite ingeniously. we do
not bother with hampers. except a
small one IN the guest bathroom. but
each member OF the family drops his
contribution 90 the wash day cere-
monies down the chute on, yes.
there is one other exception. In the
family bathroom, We have a hamper
for the laundry. the shirts and col
lars and such things that are 10 be
sent out-that saves sorting them
from the general mass. The chute
empties into the laundry. which We
have built i'm a light airy corner OF
the cellar. with a good solid con-
crete floor There we have our wash
ing machine which runs by cleo
tricity. and is one OF our greaust
labor savers We have a mangle
similarly run, and use electric irons.
Wash day with us is more OF an in
cident than an institution. But Z
do agree with YOU; II I had no lsun-
dry chute, 7 would certainly have
laundry stations in central points
on each floor Of my house. for be
lieve heartily IN systematizlng work
and saving unnecessary labor"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

| ing just three places from which 20
I gather up the articles for the laun-
\ dry. Each member OF the family is
/ responsible for putting the articles
! he wishes washed in one of the re-
! anywhere else for such things. OF
J course, the family had 90 be trained
not 10 leave soiled clothes and towels
in their own rooms. but they soon
| learned"
THAT is not at all a new idea 20
me-" quoth the city woman; 81 have
similar plan in my house which
! works 10 perfection. also. 7, too,
have a laundry station. a main one
on each floor. but L have found il
convenient 10 add two or three Of
what you might call local stations.
in addition. For instance. fin the
guest bathroom and also in the chill
drens bath, 1 have small hampers
they are Of willow painted white and
decorated simply 10 harmonic with
the room, FOR / think they might just
as well be ornamental and useful,
both-while, in a well-ventilated
closet on each floor. is a larger ham
per into which these smaller ones
are emptied daily. We find that that
plan works Well"
The country woman had been
listening quietly. Soon the city wom-
an and the lady from the suburbs
turned to her and demanded her
contribution TO the discussion Of ex-
periences.
You city folks and suburbanites
do not always give us country people
much credit for being up-to-date, "
she began composedly. especially if
we happen TO live in a picturesque
old house. Oh, / know. I have often
heard your comments. Perfectly fas-
cinating, but, of course, no modern
conveniences', you usually say. and
often in a patrOniZing tone that is
most annoying. As a matter of fact,
l believe that my old house-and i'll
is a very. very old one, too-is much
more convenient than either of
yours. But, 10 be sure. we have made
it so. Still we have not dispensed
with any of its picturesqueness or
fascination.
when we first decided to move
away from the city, and live all the
year round in grandfather's old
place. we determined TO make il just
as convenient and comfortable and
livable as possible. So we began We
kept all the old fireplaces, which we
love, but we also put in a good fur
mace We still use a few lamps for
reading; we enjoy the honey glow
too, but we put in electric u-h- @nr
convenience. And-we wan
laundry chute, too. a local
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

hanging models which are compared
TO the Egyptian garments of a very
ancient dynasty. They range from
the smartest Of low-neckeG evening
frocks of silk and satin to the
simplest of ginghams, and from
these to the trimmest of service
suits.
Under the name of service suits
come a number of military models of
which the sketch illustrated is a
good example. Instead of being
made of khaki this suit is made of
heather jersey. which is a color
mixture in which brown is fecked
with deep pink, green and lavender.
An inverted pleat in the back OF the
coat adds to its style.
Another military model which
saw very recently departed widely
from the military in it's development,
for it was made entirely of balsam-
green tussur, a reminder of green
leaves and cool breezes in a Robin
Hood forest.
Although every ones mind is
running more or less toward serving
the country and very naturally to
ward costumes which would be prac-
teal for any task that one might
choose, there are also charming
frocks for other occasions.
Taffeta and Foulard FrOcks.
Taffeta and foulard frocks are a
requirement of every woman's ward
robe whether she has a large or
small one, for a dress of either of
these materials is always ready TO
wear; il does not go 10 the laundry
and is not feazed by fogs and dews
Although taffeta and foulard can not
in themselves be said 10 be new
this season, their trimmings of or
candle make them seem so. Frills,
bands and facings of organdie give
an airiness to these frocks which is
summary and cool. Satin is also
being trimmed with orgAndie. In fact
this might be called an organdie
season, for il does its "bit" on silks
and satins as well as on the humb BILE
In the second sketch is shown
frock of soft plaid taffeta with col
lar, lapel facing and pockets on
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
Summer Fashions Show Varicty-MiLtary
Service Suits Make Their Entry

NEW YORK. July 2S.-"Variety
is The spice of life" said some one
at some time so long ago that the
saying has become a proverb. 1t is
true, whether il be in scene, envir-
onment. in fashions, or in food. Va
riety is one thing which we possess
in fashions this season: variety in
silhOuettes. in materials, in trim
mings. Smart clothes styles in de-
sign from the high wasted styles
of the first empire, through fluffy
frills Of the Mid-Nictorian era and
draperies almost pannier-like. peg
tops" and last but not least, straight
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

the black outline stem stitch. The
flowers and leaves are filled in be-
tween the lines with the seed stitch.
using bright orange for the flowers
and a medium shade Of green for
the leaves. Mercerized twisted cot
ton is used. The motif is repeated
three times across the end Of scarf
and top of pillow and in corners
and centers of sides of table cover.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
Women Who
Knit Use
Red Cross
Bags

Throughout the coun-
try WOmenaare knitting,
knitting, knitting-every-
where, on pOrcheS, in
hotels, on street cars, in
automobiles, on trains
and even walking, need
les are flashing every
Where-knitting for the
soldiers.
Now a new fad is
sweeping the country,
the Red Cross has
brought out a knitting
bag which is most suit
able for this purpose.
These cost SO and Is
cents each; cotton bags
soc, and khaki bags 75c.
Some thirty auxiliaries of
the local Red Cross chap
ter are at work after this
r7,onnar
Soon these bags will be
seen everywhere in
South Bend. They have
a large red cross and are
made of strong cotton or
khaki with suitable draw
strings. Be sure to get
yours.
Those of the Betty
Ross and Kappa Kappa
Gamma auxiliaries will
be on sale next WedneS-
day, Aug. /, at the Els
worth store. The money
thus obtained will be
used TO purchase other
materials to be made up
for the Red Cross =
pajamas, bed shirts,
sheets, pillow cases,
shoulder wraps, bed
socks, operating room
lin en-, handkerchiefS.
bath robes, etc, many of
which have already been
prepared and will go into
the Red Cross service
within the next ten DAYS.
Others will follow.
Remember the Betsy
Ross and Kappa Kappa
Gamma Red Cross sale
at EllSwoTth'S, Wednes-
day.
Help the Girls in
Their Good Work
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29
MOTIF FOR LIVING ROOM
LINEN.

This unusual design is adapted
for a scarf sofa pillow or table
cover ON coarse ecru linen. The
entire design is worked i'm black
using the stem stitch The stems
and centers of the flowers are in
satin stitch using dark green with
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-07-29

We are now annually consuming
more than sc pounds Of sugar 4
head. more than $50 pounds for
every family in the United States, or
more than a pound a day the whole
year through In this we are sur
passed only by England and Den
mark.
The review. [volume] (High Point, N.C.) 1908-19??, 1917-09-06
SIXTY-FIVE BALES SET
AS MINIMUM CAR LOAD
War Board Will Take Steps to Ease
Tremendous Pressure Upon Rail.
WAYS Durinu Fall Months.

New York.-An order prohibiting the
shipping of cotton in quantities less
than sfxty-five bales a car and requir-
ing as many more to be loaded as the
size of the car will permit, has been
issued by the railroads war board, 1t
was announcewd here. Notice has
been sent to buyers of cotton with a
request that they place orders on a
basis of not less than sixty-five bales
or multiples thereof. +,
The movement Of the cotton crop
which is scheduled to begin this fall
at time when "a combination of gov
eminent and commercial business will
be bringing tremendous pressure to
bear upon the railroads. was given as
the reason for the order in statement
issued by Fairfax Harrison, chairman
of the board.
"In the southwest and Mississippi
delta districts the average car will
load IS bales" the statement said,
consequently buyers are asked to or
der in multiples of IS from the south
west and in multiples of Is from the
southeast districts
The review. [volume] (High Point, N.C.) 1908-19??, 1917-09-06
Find a Use for Rails.

The city authorities of StocKno,D
have begun a campaign against ie eor
by Offering a reward of 21a cents ~, lOs
every dead one. While it is hoped ' t,-
to reduce the rat plague conslderaD,'tt
the chief end is to get an impolsqhIl o
addition to the stocks of fats aVa, ,'tri.
for the making Of soaps ana luz
cants. The rats are treated - 4n
corpse utilization estaDllsnLne eiIod
where, after the fat has been pV 'nto
out, what remains is converter has
a poultry food. South Sweden rors
for some time been utilizing cau"o oIso
of animals. Considerable fat Is .aIn.
obtained by skimming large cOn t.orn
ers placed in the sewers leading I m
hotels, restaurants and other p.~ IT
where there is an unavoidable WASTE
tat.
The review. [volume] (High Point, N.C.) 1908-19??, 1917-09-06
CHAPTER XIV.
Ethel Makes an Impression.

Ethel Makes an Impression.
Those German infantrymen were a
formidable looking company to descend
upon a peace-loving innkeeper such as
Henri Christophe. It was, indeed, no
wonder that he viewed them with ap-
prehension, as they stood there at pa
rade rest, and stared stolidly into his
startled face. 1t seemed to him that
wherever he looked he met the deter
mined, impersonal, almost inhuman
blue eyes of one Of those businesslike
Germans. And there was something
sinister in the very way they crowded
his hosiery. Henri Christophe could
not help feeling that even so they
would crowd every house in Belgium.
To him they seemed like locusts sent
by a displeased God to swarm over
the land until it should be filed to
overlooking. And always, he
told himself, there would be count
less throngs to fill the slightest gap in
their grim ranks.
While Christophe viewed them with
mingled alarm and amazement, tele-
phone sergeant joined those gray
ghosts from beyond the Rhine. He
carried a gun slung over his back and
a field telephone in his hands. Placing
the instrument on one Of Christophe's
tables, he proceeded to run a wire
through the doorway to the street.
''The major is coming" he an
nounced to his friend the corporal, who
at once commanded his men to present
arms. So they stood, posed like stat
ues, when Major Won Brenig entered,
saluted the flag, and then cast a quick
glance Of satisfaction about the room.
Just before him another figure had
slipped inside the door, and returned
the salute of the corporal; and now he
stood impassively looking on, much as
If the proceeding were merely an ev-
eryday occurrence with him. But
however unconcerned he appeared, he
was far from disinterested. However
much he appeared at ease In his uni
form of a German captain, he felt any
thing but at home in it. There was, in
truth, no uniform that suited Larry
Redmond so well as that of his own
Irish Guards.
''This is goodw Major Won Brenig
told his corporal. And it was evident
that Lieutenant Baum and Sergeant
Schmidt, who had arrived simultane-