Evening star., 1917-10-07
BY ANNE RITrENHoUsE.

EHESE are stirring times in
clothes. The manufacturers and
shops have prepared for rush
season. 1t is their own en-
preston that they are actually seram-
bling for n supply to meet the demand
The French gowns are here. New
American gowns are not only exploited.
but tremendously admired and ap-
proved. The efforts of those who have
taken the French silhouette and built
gowns in their own workrooms, made
Of American materials. should be COM
mended in an entire chapter.
Some of the best houses in this coun-
Try have tried out experienced design
efs and celorists in producing several
hundred gowns that are first cousins
20 the French. in that they express
the adopted Paris lines. Each of the
designers gives fun tribute to the fact
that Paris has laid down the laws for
The season, hut every designer boasts
with honest pride that the clothes are
the product of American study and
NoTknanship.
1t is because Of this extreme effort
on the part of the American designers
during the month of ApGast that the
openings were earlier than usual There
Is no lack of French gowns IN this
country today, but htfore they arrived
IN bulk several American houses ~
prominence adventured into a ner'
feld--that OF having openings to sho,
their own models ulus tie few Frencl.
over as personal has age.
In every case ths houses tina, show
these American gowns called upon
Their experienced French workers to
produce them. and the only ones that
vers successful wsre the gowns that
had been given into the hands of those
who had studied the Paris methods
with reverence and earnestness The
result was that the clientele of these
houses saw extraordinarily good dra-
pery. the combination of ailurins col
ors and an excellence in tailored suits
that we are led to believe is purely
American.
The silhouette has been esta blished
Every woman now knows that her
skirt is to be narrow and her coat lor;-
or short, provided it clings to the Gs
ure. She knows that topcoats are a
important as frocks and that some :,
the best tailors offer only sport sui
and topcoats to wear over thin one
piece gowns.
She also knows that soft materials
take precedence over stiff ones; but
she has not ~actly classified the yari-
Gus colors. fabrics and accessories that
she must accept or avoid.
These are vastly important matters
to the average shopper True. there
10 class of women who go to ex-
penstve houses that handle only a few
OF the most fashionable pieces of an
parel and offer nothing that can lead
one into the wrong path; but this class
femains an exclusive one, and what
they do or do not do is not always
. guide TO the mass of women who
must fight out the battle of clothes in
their own way and to whom victory
Is vital
Take colors. Who does not feel per- |
picked and confused on entering a shop |
where hundreds of colors are dashed |
upon the vision and offered as the |
latest thing? One feels that a gigantic |
Kaleidoscope has been run before the !
eyes. The brain refuses to work The |
Judgment is suspended One goes out |
Of the shop with feeling taat il is
futile to try to buy clothes and with |
q. desire to let the season slide
It is this encouragement that as |
sails three-qua ters of the women who I
60 out in October to get their new |
apparel. so let them be guided by the |
TACT that not many colors are really |
In fashion and not many are available !
3or the woman who has not many So !,
claI opportunities to display variety |
of clothes.
To begin at the beginning of the