The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-11-01
TIGHT SKIRT IS
GENERALLY WORN
lead-PenciI Silhouette Taken Up
by American Designers With
Enthusiasm.
IDEA EXAGGERATED BY SOME
Tunic Refuses to Be Cast Aside In
Spite Of the Fact That There Are
Many Women Who Are Tired
Of It.-Belt Important.

New York.-New clothes are pass.
ing before the eyes as quickly as a
vital and dramatic series of motion
pictures.
One has only sufficient mental vision
to catch at the leading points as they
swirl by. These things will not 60
into oblivion. They will return as do
the moving films; but the world Of
women wants to get at the gist Of the
movement at this moment.
The whole continent Of women Is
buying autumn clothes. Those who
preached economy, suspension Of fash.
This froek is OF heavy Tokay crepe
trimmed with dull brown silk braid and
buttons. The underslip 10 very mar.
row, and the bodice wraps about the
waist and ties at the back.
ions, standardized uniforms for wom-
en-, the turning Of women buyers in
the industry of apparel into the work
Of war relief, must feel that they have
preached In vain. p
The reel Of clothes that Is running
off quickly before the eyes of every
woman Is not nearly so confusing IL
one brings to bear upon 1t we'll
adjusted judgment.
The first impression one has Is that
the vital changes are few, but this i'm
preston gives way after day or two
to the feeling that the changes, what
ever they are, are very important.
The majority Of women look at new
clothes In the light of contrast to
old ones. There are few women so
wealthy that they do not say when
they see the influx Of new seasonal
fashions, IF that is to be the style, l
Gun wear my blue gown Of last year"
Lead.PenclI Figure.
There will be hundred or more
,emarks like this made by the women
who view the clothes Of the hour.
France has not changed her silhouette
as much as America has. She pro-
duced the lead-pencll figure late last
spring, but America takes 1t up this
season with an enthusiasm that Is
usually given to what Is original.
A few of the American designers
have exaggerated the French idea.
There have been certain gowns sent
out by well-known house and extern
sively copied by those who deal with
the trade over the country, which put
a woman's figure back TO where 1t was
In 1880. The skirt is pulled about the
figure until movement Is actually i'm
peded 1t has all the symptoms of the
famous pull-back skirt to which the
hustle was attached. That appendage
Is also In fashion, but made so incon-
spicuous that II cannot offend even
the most conservative taste.
Odd MS II may sound. many Of these
pull-back skirts are longer than any
thing we have had for four years.
They have TO be of decent length, for
their tendency TO lift at the back and
pull across the knees wouid bring the
front hem higher than the law allows.
1t is mockery TO refer TO law In
dress. probably. In the light Of what
we have seen during the last two
years. for what the French call "a
souvenir Of skirt and regret Of
bodice" has been combined to make
the average woman's costume.
However. as one reviews the skirts
of the moment. there Is definite rea-
son TO believe that the figure will look
much as IL did Inst spring. Trimming
Is lifted from skirts; the hem is often
10 inches from the ground. instead OF
8: ;lae fullness at the waisiline has