Middletown transcript., 1917-09-08

enthusiasm, but if a skirt is TO be ex
ccedingly narrow, it cannot be long
1t would be too utterly inconvenient
for women who are plunged into q
series Of activities.
Jackets of Two Kinds.
1t has already been announced that
two kinds of jackets will prevail iu
the autumn. One is hip-length and
one is hem-length. The latter Is
called polOnaise and the former is
called a jacket.
The revival of the pOlonaise is
merely contribution to the fashion
for top coats. One can use a polon-
aise over any kind of skirt and blouse,
and if it is lined in the colorful and
interesting way that prevails among
tailors today, it presents itself as q
garment of rare merit.
The short jacket, however, as it
will be worn this autumn, is q bit Of
costumery that is taken by the back
of the neck and pulled out of the fam
lily album.
Whether or not the peculiar vaude-
vile trick of presenting a family
album in song and living pictures
which has spread over New York
through the success of one of the
musical revues of the season, was the
predecessor of this short, tight jacket,
nobody can tell. 1t is a far-fetched
idea, no doubt, but don't you think it
is rather interesting that the stage
folk should get up a family album
scene that runs through vaudeville
fashions as dancing does, and that,
now, suddenly, that coat and skirt
should be launched into cOstumery?
One of these jackets which will un-
doubtedly prove success because 1t
has been issued by dominant house,
has little hustle all it's own. 1t be-
longs to skirt that is quite narrow,
and it has 4 bit of an upward pull
from knees to waistline at the back
Il pull so slight that it is not always
noticeable.
The jacket fits the figure, curves in
to the waistline at the back and then
give the hustle effect. 1t is buttOned
in a straight line down the front.
There is a band of velvet above the
hem of the coat. The buttons are
covered with the wine-cOlOred velour
that makes the suit. The collar is
very high, soft in its folds, rolls over
backward to the neck line and is trim
med with a band Of velvet.
Fasten From Chin to Hem.
Revers are abandoned by the tailors
will have them, sixteen others will be
fastened in straight line from the
chin to the lower edge All tie col
lars are high, but soft and enve )ping
the neck and chin in the manner that
was considered correct in the eight
ecnth century.
Mind you, this style is not the only
powerful note in fashion that is
brought out for jackets. 1t is one of
several other details, and a woman
she wishes.
This latter situation will be the
hope and the downfall of many wom-
en-. Left to themselves to choose
among heterogeneous mass Of ma
terial, the best minds will grow con-
fused and go wrong. On the other
hand, highly trained judgment will
give to women the chance to express
their individuality and look little
unlike their neighbors.
1t may be said, however, that the
coat that fastens in line down the
front the buttons running straight
through the high. rolling collar, will
be the most noticeable change in
street costumery that will take place
in the fall.
The narrow skirt has already been
accepted here and there, and there are
hundreds of women who have never
given it up, so its widespread accep-
tan0e will not cause quite the same
ripple of interest that will be given by
this family album coat with it's upward
tilt at the back, its point in front, it's
long, slim waiStline under the arms,
and its row of colored buttons on
which one will be tempted to say the
old nursery rhyme, "Richman, poor
man, beggarman, thief"
Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)