davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1917-09-23
Touches of Color in Latest Garments f01

Tor the next six months.
DoeufIlet and Callot, as we'll as some
Of the other important dressmakers.
panel which we once wore before we
adopted the chemise frock. This panel
hangs in the straight, Egyptian manner
from shoulders to heels and glitters
with cut jet and crystals. 1t is always
of transparent fabrics. but 1t 10 never
demure or without brilliant ornaments.
Jet, you know, Is to be featured this
year in tho most extraordinary manner.
The old jet mines in England. which
were once worked by the monks, have
now been reopened in order to help
supply this valuable commodity to the
world Of fashion.
4 4
France has seen to Il that hundreds
Of yards Of this crystal are facetted and
high polished, then worked into bril-
that looks like a coat Of mail. and the
rather trivial designs Of little vines
and leaves which were once fashionable
are loft under the cobwebs where they
were put years ago.
For instance, the panel Of black tulle
and cut Jet that drops like q back cur
tain behind the figure Of q woman In q
black evening gown is sumptuously
trimmed with Jet roses or great Egyp-
tan figures that hold the panel in place
by sheer weight Of material used.
Bodices of cut white jet in daring and
striking designs on white tulle or even
on hydrangea blue tulle, which Is one
of the dominant shades OF the hour for
the evening. are worn with skirts Of
black, fame red or white satin.
There are Grecfan gowns from Jenny,
made of white satin or crepe de chine
that have all their borders in a wall Of
Two daof lon fn Hxyhyf tnf
There are pink satin Algerian skirts
without that rufiie Of lace which once
adorned that kind of garment, which
have bodices Of rose-colored Jet that
looks like the rose quartz which France
used to such an extent for toilet articles
a half dozen years ago.
The separate bodice 10 not the only
unusual fashion feature in the new
gowns for the evening. There are ex-
aggerated peasant bodices. that are
part OF polonaise. and the sleeves are
merely enlarged brassards that swing
between the shoulder and the elbow
something on the order Of Mohammend's s
comm. without anything holding them
up. There are wide, jeweled straps in
the way OF a necklace that cross tho
shoulders at the back. tho bust in front
then resolve themselves into a kind of
waistband.
One extremely good gown made In
this fashion is of shrimp pink crepe
satin, with overskirt and bodice of
taupe-colored velvet. There is a band
Of dull silver lace on the skirt, and
the shoulder straps of silver cloth are
embroidered with rose quartz beads.
Evening star., 1917-09-23

dark blue gown to those who know
nothing of the possibilities of combin-
Ing 1t with something vivid; but when.
against the midnight sky surface is put
a design Of the Dakota Indians. done
in vividly colored woolen threads. then
the dark blue gown takes to itself
gayety which it has lacked.
It is quite true that the designers in
Paris will also mingle opposing colors
through the use of double-faced ma
terials, but they are evidently deter
mined to get the very best they can
out Of the color scheme in dress by US
ing primitive embroidery against a
somber surface.
In the new gowns that We Will wear
there will be as much colored crystal
work as colored worsted embroidery.
1t looks as though the crystals will be
given over to the evening costumery and
the worsteds to the street clothes. Only
a few of the French dressmakers have
put sequins on clothes. but each and all
have taken up colored bead work with
enthusiasm and exploited it with all the
frankness of vivid colors that is part
of the American Indian as well as his
southern ancestors
Lanvin, for example, makes black
satin gown for informal evening wear
that is nothing but series Of straight,
primitive panels falling over slim,
tight, transparent skirt of periwinkle
Evening star., 1917-09-23
Velvet for Winter.

Word comes from Paris that the finest
qualities of velvet will be the fabrics of
fashion for next winter. These velvets
are called zephyr and mousseline because
of their excessive suppIeness. They are
described as light as a breath" France
is also designing many fancy velvets,
especially in striped designs. There are
also checked velvets for tailored suits.
These are brocaded velvets for evening
wraps. The famous design of sprawling
japanese trees on heavy foundation of
satin will be revived
There will be new kind of plush
called "grenadier," which is copied from
the headgear worn by the imperial guards
Of France. 1t is still worn by some Of
the crack British regiments as a part of
their dress uniform. This will be used
for hats and for trimming gowns.
There will also be several weaves Of
Chinese crepe on the market this autumn.
There is a new kind Of crepe that is
double-faced. One side has a dull finish,
the other has a glossy finish. One side
may be fiowered and the other plain or
the same design may be used on both
sides, with the colors reversed.
Evening star., 1917-09-23
FRoSTBURG, MD.

Mrs. S. c. Bond and daughter Ellen,
jacksonville, Fla. are guests of Mrs. J.
c. Pfeiffer. Myer Kline, Greensboro,
N. c., and Philip Kline, Roanoke. Va,
are visiting their sister, Mrs. Myer Ger
son. Miss Ellen Peterson, Eckhart
was rendered surprise Wednesday
G. N. Zeller returned from New York
and Atlantic City. Mrs. J. Paul George
and two children are visiting Mrs.
Georges father. George Jones Mrs.
John f. Miller entertained in honor of
the sixteenth birthday of her daughter
Vivian. Mrs. Charles Lambert, Mem
phis. Tenn, is visiting her sister Mrs.
Evening star., 1917-09-23
Lulu Matthey has returned from Balti-

Lulu Matthey has returned from Baltt-
more. Mrs. Smith Blair of Clarksburg,
w. Va, and W. L. Powell OF NorioIk
Powell. Mr.. and Mrs. John K. Clements
and family have returned from ATTAIN
tic City. Miss Sally Howard of Pitts
burgh is visiting Mr.. and Mrs. Oden h.
Howard DR.. and Mrs. Charles Ten
nant have returned to Charlottesville,
after a visit TO Mr.. and Mrs. David b.
Tenant at Redgate. Maj. W. II Clif-
ford, now stationed at the philadelphia
navy yard, visited his family here this
week
Evening star., 1917-09-23
WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.

b. B. Burgunder of the Council of Ma
tional Defense and Mrs. Burgunder have
arrived at the Greenbrier. Mr.. and Mrs.
Mark Lansburgh, whose wedding took
place in Washington Wednesday, cam.
to the Greenbrier for a few days Of
their wedding trip. Mrs. Lansburgh
was Miss Hortense Brylawski. MI and
Mrs. Louis Titus of Washington passed
a few days at the Greenbrier. Miss
Sallie L. Doyle of Washington was re-
Gently joined here by her sister. Mrs.
Andrew Moreland, and Miss Sara More
land. who passed some time at New
port R. l.
Evening star., 1917-09-23
Alexandra Society.

Mr.. and Mrs. Alexander Kinnier Strait
ton have returned from a visit to rela-
tives in Lynchburg Mrs. Charles Ed
ward Potts has returned to her home
in Ashland. Va, after a visit to her
dAughter, Mrs. c. Keith Carlin. in
North Columbus street DR.. and Mrs. ].
n. Bitter have returned from visit
10 friends in Norfolk. Mrs. Edgar War
field has returned from a visit to rela-
tives in Philadelphia. Miss Mary E
Carlin has returned from Ellicott City,
Evening star., 1917-09-23

Maignes parents. Mr.. and Mrs. Francis
J. Davidson, in South Royal street. Miss
Elizabeth Bangs. librarian Of Stetson
University, De Land. Fla. was the guest
this week of Mrs. James A. Long. in
Queen street. Mrs. John Hunton Foster
has returned from spending the summer
with her son-in-law and daughter. Mr..
and Mrs. Jacob Edge, at East Downing
town, Pa. and with relatives at Mark
ham Va
Evening star., 1917-09-23

treasurer. A. Stanley Brown. Mrs.
Walter Monroe of Dominion Heights
has gone to Martinsville, Va. Mrs.
Henry Hitler has returned to New
York after a visit to Mrs. Ira Smith of
Woodmont
Evening star., 1917-09-23
LEESBURG, VA.

Rev. W. II. Burkhardt, with Mrs.
and the Misses Burkhardt,
left this week for Richmond. where
they will make their future home. Mrs.
Marshall Rust of Pittsburgh is the
guest of Mrs. A. Z. NJ Rust. Mrs.
Evening star., 1917-09-23

that worsted embroidery is in high IA
vor. Sometimes, when an artist wants
to get bit of brilliant color into an
otherwise demure picture, cat play
ing with balls of colored wool is thrown
recklessly over the background, and
the effect always catches the eye.
Evening star., 1917-09-23

Taking this as the foundation of the
work that is being done by the Paris
dressmakers. we can build ourselves up
into some sort of colorful picture that
will catch the attention wherever we
display ourselves.
A dark blue gown is nothing but a
Evening star., 1917-09-23
Figured muslins are new.
Pockets are disappearing.

New navy serge dresses have sur
plice fronts and long tunics. sometimes
bordered with rows of narrow braid.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1917-12-09
WORK COMPLETED ON WORN
MEMS CONVERSATION BILL

Senator c o'Conor gooirick. Of
Fredericksburg cha irman of the
workmen's com pensaticn com nnissIon
s as in tho city Yesterday, The com
mission viii meet here on Friday
next to complete its work In framing
The workmens compensation bill.
Senator Goolrick. said yesterday that,
contrary to the general impression,
there will be few changes and those
win he OF minor importance. frori the
tentative draft OF the bill which wac
'eeently printed by the commission.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1917-12-09
RONAA'S PAPER u
APPEAR DECEMBER Is
Magic Issue Newspaper 10 Give Expert
Advice on what Women Can DO
In she Present Crisis.

unique single issue newspaper,
"woman's work Today" will be issued
about December IL. under the auspices
OF the bureau OF vocaticns, for the pur'
pose OF providing IA helpful medium for
exchange of information between those
needing womens work and the women
capable Of doing the work. This paper
VIII show women many OF the profes
ssousl and other new opportunities
opening 20 them throughout the eoun-
~ and the equipment necessary for
aNaltng themselves of 1t. But the real
feature of this journal will be to point
aut the opportunities already available
n Richmond and eise where in the
state for advanced training IN various
directions, and will also present as
complete muster as possible of women
mere who are successful in independent
business or professions.
The agricultural department. VIII
tfeat fully this new phase OF woman's
work. and thcre viii he contribution
10 this department by Miss Park Tsy-
}ur. graduate Of the leading horti-
cultural school Of the coustry.~ who
viii explain the many opportunities
7aen to women. especially those with
1aairng The different. phases of this
work 10 be tIeatod viii be the butter
sud egg problem ard how they may be
tsed 10 ray the grocery or millinery
bill good rosds. and especially poul-
t-s and the essentially OF care and
cleanliness IN tbetr Garcia king. as in
re case al children. Mrs. Wallace with
also contribute an article 10 this de-
isrt tnent on the success of professional
cenca farmers in the northwest anG
viii suggest werN along similar lines
f7r Nfrginis women
Another professions offering great
possibilities to woman who has the
DAlurai ADVANTAGE Of the homefna KEY
as an asset 10 AID het. W iii be architec-
furc Tho discussion in this depart
'aeut viii lucfud. the consideration for
~ q comfort Of a family. closet arrange
8r,ent the economies Of room and light,
74e small details OF the bath tub SO as
rs make ~ ON for the broom behind il.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
"Pork" Before Preparedness.

The Democratic administration Is
facing a deficit. Either more revenue
must be raised or great economies
must be practiced. Claude Kitchen,
Democratic leader In the house of rep
resentatives, advocates the reduction
Of appropriations for the army. the
navy and measures of national de-
fense. We thought so. Preparedness
Is beginning to assume Its true posi-
ton among Democratic policies. Its
necessities are to serve the purposes of
economy when Democratic simplicity
has got us into financial plights. Pre-
paredness is to be sacrificed on the al
tar on which the holy pork Is fried and
from which the slices are distributed
and the drippings caught.-Cincinnati
Times-Star.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
lNTERNe0 VESSELS MAY At.
TEMPT TO EFFECT AN ESCAPE,
ACCORDING TO REPORTS.
wATCAMEN ON GUARD
PORT COLLECTOR AND MEN ON
THE ALERT TO PREVENT ANY
RUN FOR OPEN SEA.

Western Newspaper Union News Service.
New York.-The port OF New York
Is sealed by order of Dudley Field Ma
lone. collector of the port. Vessels OF
every description, including tug boats
were turned back at quarantine by
the torpedo boat stationed there to
maintain neutrality of the United
States. The purpose of Mr. Malone's
order remained a mystery upon which
he declined to throw any light
While there was no apparent basis
for the belief such drastic action re-
suited from information that one OF
more of the great German liners in
termed at Hoboken was preparing tc
make dash for the open sea, it was
significant that deputy collector con
ferred on the Hamburg American line
dock with the chief Of police of Hobo
ken and representatives of the steam
ship company. Twenty-four steam
ships, some of them the largest in the
world, owned by German interests
are tied up at piers on the New Jersey
side of the Hudson river while three
Austrian vessels are docked at Brook
lyn piers.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
WINTER WORK FOR STALLION
No Reason Why tie Should Not Be
Worked Like Any Other Horse
Give Reasonable Exercise.

1t Is a mistake to keep a stallion
Idle during the fall and winter.
Though this is often done there is no
reason why he should not be worked
like any other horse. If this is not
possible he should at least be given
the opportunity of taking a reasonable
amount Of exercise. Also the feed
should be about the same as that of
other horses.
Feed about one pound of good hay
for every 100 pounds of weight and in
addition to this, give enough grain,
equal parts of corn, bran and oats, to
keep the animal in good flesh, but not
too fat. If this be done he will be
more efficient during the breeding sea-
son than would be the case were he
kept in breeding condition all through
the year.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
AVERAGE LABOR FOR HORSES
Horse on Grain Farm Works Three
Hours . Day-Different on Diver
slfaed Crop Farm.

On the grain farm the heaviest work
for the horses comes in April, May
August, September and October The
rest Of the time there is practically
nothing for the horses to do But
enough horses have to be kept during
the year to take care of the work dur
ing these busy months. When aver
aged up, the horse on the grain farm
only works three hours day. These
figures were secured in an investiga-
ton by the Minnesota experiment sta
ton. under the direction of Thomas
Cooper, now director of the North Da-
kota experiment station.
In this same investigation it was
found that when the crops are diversi-
fed, the horse labor is better dis
tributed. There is less work for the
horses in the seasons that are the busi-
est on the all-grain farm, and there is
work for the horses when there is
no work for the horses on the all-grain
farm.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
Wrath over Peace Rejection.

Amsterdam, Holland. d.-Emperor Viii
liam, replying to a telegram received
by him from the director of the prov
ince of Brandenburg, says dispatch
from Berlin, sent this message: after
thirty months of warfare, rich in sac
rifices, the entire German people, in
holy wrath at the rejection of my
peace offer, is inspired anew with dou-
bled strength and stands as one man
with the Kaiser and empire in order
VIGOROUSLY to pass through the blood
of the final battle which now has be.
come inevitable for house, home,
honor and freedom, and finally to
place every peace disturber within
bounds. May God and our good SWORD
help US thereto"
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
THEORIES At FAULT
WHY DEMOCRATIC RULE 10 Al.
WAYo A FAILURE.
Party Has Done In the Past - It d
Doing Today-Psopis's Money
Wasted and 1onds Forced on
the Country.

About the only consistent thing the
Democratic party at Washington !s
doing, now that 1t Is In power. Ia re-
vsrsing every plank In Its national
platforms and making itself respon'
sibls for policies 1t condemned while
In the minority. The poor mans
breakfast table," about which Demo-
cratic orators talked SO sympatheu-
cally during the old tariff fights. Is
now to feel the full effects Of tariff
burdened supplies. Sugar Is not only
back on the dutiablc list. but Is
scheduled to pay still higher duties.
Coffee, too. faces u tariff duty.
Perhaps this Democratic congress,
assuming that higher wages have
made poor men a thing Of the past,
assumes that there Is no longer any
need to consider the subject. Then.
again, 1t may be that the Democrats,
facing stern realities now about which
they cared little while not responsible
for government revenues, are ready to
concede that all their talk about bur-
dening the poor mans breakfast table
was just talk-nothing more.
When government is faced with
big expenditures 1t must have big
revenues. Democrats like spending
money so well that their appropria-
tions have been running into un-
dreamt of figures lately. In itself that
Is bad enough, but when there Is
failure to accompany big expenditures
with adequate revenue measures the
result to the national treasury is pre-
cisely the same as 1t would be in pri-
vate business. A deficit stares you in
the face. No Democratic congress has
ever seemed to comprehend that fact.
There is nothing in the record of the
several congresses that Democrats
have controlled the past quarter of a
century to show that they realize that
deficit must be met. When they have
found 1t impossible longer to ignore
one, they have resorted to bond issues
rather than to revenue measures. They
have preferred giving the govern
ment's note of hand to the good old
fashioned way of seeing to 1t that
enough revenue Is coming in to pay
the bills as they fall due. Such a
policy is much too practical for n po-
litical party whose traditions are root
ed in theories.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02

A model to which you can pin your
faith, If you are contemplating a new
riding habit, is pictured here. 1t Is
made in one Of the new weaves that
have been SO much promoted for sports
wear, but probably as good a choice
as can be made for practical service
is covert cloth. A dark tan color in
this material, cut on the same lines
as those Of the habit shown here, will
furnish its owner with the best of
style. She can wear 1t with the assur-
ance that 1t is correct.
The coat is cut on the trimlnest Of
lines and Is as severe as the art Of
the tailor can make 1t. In some Of
the new habits coats are very little
longer than In this conservative
model. But thi, is a matter of per-
sonal taste, and a difference of an
inch and a half perhaps covers the
latitude Of choice. The waistlines are
very long and the skirt moderately
full
The hat is less stiff than the regula-
ton hat for ridinr. but has not dis
placed its rigid predecessors. Like
the material In the habit 1t is new
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
MEXICO HAS CONSTITUTION.
After Three Months and Filled
With Radical Laws.

Queretaro, Mexico.-The delegates
to the constitutional assembly, which
concluded its labors, assembled and
signed the constitution on which they
had been working for two months
The ceremony was attended by great
enthusiasm. All the members of the
cabinet were present except Luis Ca
brera, minister of finance, and Ygnacic
Bonillas, minister of fomento and
communications. The new constitu
tion contains some advanced legisla
tion. Among the provisions are:
Abolition of the office OF vice presi
dent; prohibition of the reelection Of
a President; stringent and radical Ia
Dor laws, which provide for an eight
hour day, seven hours of night work
and six working days a week: compul
sorry arbitration, profit sharing, free
employment bureaus, antitrust laws
a national Department of Health and
plenary powers and compulsory mill
tary instruction.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02

arrival in the realm Of apparel, and
Is comfortable and elegant. 1t fits the
head snugly and is so constructed that
1t may be made to measure. This is a
boon to women who have abundant
hair.
There are dress" habits and polo
habits In which the most vivid reds
and green's demonstrate a courageous
use Of color in riding togs. These
high-colored coats are worn with white
trousers, and the polo coats are sleeve
less. But they are another story.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
DRINKING WATER FOR STOCK
Automatic Device, Invented by Indiana
Man, lnsures Full Supply and
Saves All Waste.

An ingenious contrivance for use In
watering troughs has been invented
by an Indiana man. 1t consists of an
automatic device for filling the trough
as fast as the water is depleted by
animals drinking it. The pipe through
which the water Is supplied is fitted
with spring valve.
An angle-shaped arm is pivoted In
the bottom of the tank near this pipe,
with the lower end of the arm resting
on the valve and the upper end ter
minating in wooden ball, which
floats on the surface of the water
The principle of this appliance will be
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
President Wilson's Opportunity.

For nearly four years the president
has had the opportunity to get behind
the movement to do away with the
omnibus method of appropriation
the bulwark of the "pork BARREL" For
nearly four years he has been in n po-
sitfon to defend the treasury against
political raids, to place appropriations
for public works upon a scientific and
economical basis.
But he has done neither the one nor
the other.
President Wilson, elected for a sec
Ond term, should feel superior to the
necessity of that political manuevering
which so seriously marred his first ad-
ministration.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02

Of hair which is abundant but not
long. The secret of dressing the hair
In this way appears to be in parting
It off In the right way.
The front hair for this coiffure is
parted off and combed forward us for
pompadour. The remainder Of the
hair is combed to the back of the neck
md tied, and the ends are separated
nto two strands and curled. The front
hair is parted at each side above the
temples, and waved. At the top of the
head the hair is brought back in a
small pompadour, the ends loosely
twisted and pinned to the crown. The
side hair Is combed down over the
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
Spoke Without Warrant.

It is well to keep clearly in mind the
fact that in volunteering the partici-
patton Of the United States In an in
ternational league to enforce peace on
earth, the president spoke without
warrant from the only body which can
constitutionally involve us In such an
arrangement-the senate, with its sole
power to ratify treaties.
1t is also well to remember that Mr..
Wilson spoke without warrant from
the party of which he is the leader.
In the platform on which he was
elected three months ago occurs this
declaration: 'The Monroe doctrine Is
reasserted as a principal of Demo-
cratic faith."-New York Sun.
The Idaho Springs siftings-news., 1917-02-02
FEW SUGGESTIONS ON HORSE
Keeping Animals Skin Clean
10 Essential to Health.

While pedigree does not make the
horse it has considerable weight when
his value is to be taken into consid-
Grafton.
1t should not be one good breed of
horses against another, so much as the
Rell-bred against the scrub.
Keeping the skin Of the work horses
clean enables them to sweat freely and
this is essential to their health.
II horses neck is tired by tight
refining, he is q tired horse and he has
been tired without accomplishing any
thing.