davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

will also be used for the brims of the large picture hats which have colapsible velvet crowns, Fortunately for the ma jority of women, the bellshaped hat which was in fashion last summer, will be re- tained for the winter in this new ma terial
 HATS, PLAIN AND ORNATE The aviator's turban, which Is oblong, is being introduced in jet sequins. with quill of spangles placed across the top. Probably there will be more jet used on hats even than on gowns. While the smooth silk plush hats do not require any more ornament than band and a 4 buckle the ornate hats of panne velvet and chiffon velvet are permitted to flash forth great fans of jet, broad bands and quills of it, and immense ornaments made of jet beads
 There is struggle going on today be- tween the plain and the trimmed hat. The smart women want the former, and the 1 grasping women want the latter If there is to be a sudden thrush of com mercial business done by women who are spending their own money for the first time. rest assured that the trimmed hat will be in strong demand.
 Callot cuts her skirts 10 inches from the floor today. Bernard and many others, however, cut them 14 inches from the ground. Cheruit, who makes the longest | skirts in the Paris collection, lifts her hem eight inches from the ground. Would you care to wear a chemise on which was embroidered the baton of Jo- seph Joffre, the hero of France? Or would l you prefer to have one which has the American eagle surrounded by the stars of all the states? Or maybe you would prefer to have your chemise embroidered with the French war phrase, which translated into English, reads: Spend your gold for your country"
 4 One regrets very much to say that all of these chemise are offered by exclu- sive houses. There are no limits, evil dently, to which the manufacturer will not go in their search for originality. The cadet sash of dull red worn by the cadet captains in the graduating
 class at West Point, have been adopted
 for young girls costumes and they are very effective. The youngsters at West
 Point have to pay $S0 for this insignia,
 but the American girl will not pay a
 third of that for hers.
 The West Point coat has also been
 brought into high fashion, as it suits it.
 self to the silhouette of the hour. 1t ia
 made in graz West Point cloth and worn lover a dark blue skirt, and it Is also made in dark blue with suit to correspond.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

Principal features are high collars colorful waist coats taken from the Directoire period, jet in every form, trench mufflers, ostrich plumes, fanciful chemises, braid and ornate sashes. Each house uses different Waistllne-Paul Poiret's collection is more suitable for Amerl- cans than any of his former ones-The sll- houette is slim, and gray is used lavishy, com bined with other colors.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

|
 vances, especially as regards colorful
 waistcoats that fit the figure
 Kolinsky will hold it's place as the | leader of peltry this season. It will De | lavishly used for trimming street suits Hudson seal ranks high. Its soft and | pliable skin allows it to fit in with the clinging drapery of the year. Manufac- | turers say there is a strong demand
 for fine grades of Hudson seal espe-
 cially for coats, Straight box coats that flare slightly at the hem will be fash 1 ionable.
 Jet. in every form, will be acceptable this year The reopening of the old mines in England, which were once worked by the monks has given a strong impetus to the trade in black crystal. Sequins will not be used The surface will be facetted and highly polished. Entire
 gowns of jet in superb design, mounted
 on black tulle, will be offered as the
 first fashion for evening, although they are very expensive.
 Jet buttons will be put on gowns of
 serge, satin, velour and velvet. Belts Of jet will be used on one-piece frocks for the afternoon. The cadet sash of the hour, which is used on short coats as thick jet tassels.
 In more ways than anyone could think
 were possible gray is mixed with other colors. It is especially effective when
 placed with subtle shades of blue. Violet,
 heliotrope, salon, watermelon pink and
 flame red are some of the colors which
 are put with gray gowns to be worn for all hours of the day and evening. Gray one-piece frocks for the street, offered as substitute for tailored suits, have fitted mediaeval corselets made of braid Careless cravats on the most formal
 suits, gain in importance. This kind of
 neckwear started in Paris last May, but the American dressmaker did not take :! it seriously until the new autumn models arrived.
 These cravats are made of the cloth of the suit, lined with a fancifu fabric, or they embody brilliant color scheme which has many advantages in that it brightens the suit and often makes 1t more becoming to the wearer. So far, the high, stiff, military coat collar has not appeared. but-every other
 kind of collar that mounts to the chin has been employed to supply the demand for high neckwear.
 The trench muffler is delighted in by many women. whether it is made of fur or cloth. Tt almost disguises the face, it envelopes so much of the lower part
 of it.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

trich feathers are still the symbols of wealth.
 What was true of France quickly became true of England. Although plumes are selling there today at $90 and s100 apiece, because of reduction in supply, there are buyers aplenty for them. It is expected that the industrial condition of America will be the same. as that which has pre- vailed in England and France during the latter part of the war, and that the wom- en. who are the real spenders of a na- ton, will buy clothes more lavishly and recklessly than they have for a century. The reason for this Is that they are taking the places of men and getting money to spend without asking men for it.
 As for tho ostrich feather in America 1t is slowly making its appearance, but 1t Is sponsored by SO many good houses that no doubt it will appear on many hats when the cold weather comes. Hatter's plush is strongly indorsed by the milliners for women's street hats Il
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30
Gear Wheels Made of Cotton

From the Popular Science Monthly.
 Gears are now being made of ordinary cotton which outwear those made from the finest steel. It seems incredible, but it is true.
 The very hardness of the metal gears causes the teeth surfaces to scrape over each other when they mesh, producing hideous screeches and groans. Every one of these scrapings means certain amount of wear.
 Teeth made out of compressed cotton yield. They are therefore noiseless. Com pared with the metal gears they are in- destructible To make these fibre gears large cylinder built up of cotton disks is compressed to but one-sixteenth of it's former length
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

bayonet attached Is s.69 pounds; the new Enfield model weighs about three quarters of a pound more. The bayonet of the new arm is L125 inches longer than that of the Springfield, which is 16 inches long; the assembled rifle with bayonet attached Is 4.125 inches longer than the Springfield, which measures 59212 inches from the butt plate to the point of the bayonet.
 The design of the bayonet of the new rifle Is practically the same as that of the Springfield bayonet, the only difference being that in the new rifle the back or top edge of the blade is straight along it's entire length and the front or lower edge tapers to a point.
 The magazine is practically a duplicate of the Springfield, permitting the use of the same cartridge clip carrying five cartridges. Tn the Springfield the rear sight is on the top of the breach end of the barrel, whereas in the new Enfield 1t is on the toprear end of the receiver.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30
4CASCARETS" FOR HEADACHE, COLDS, LIVER, BOWELS Enjoy life! Don't stay bilious, sick, headachy and
 constipated Get rid of bad breath, sour stomach, coated tongue,
 indigestion
Snt . 1O-cent box now.

They're fine. Cascarets liven your liver, clean your 30 feet of bowels and sweeten your stomach. You esst one or two like candy, before going to bed and in the morning your head is clear, tongue is clean. stomach sweet, breath right and cold gone. Get box from your druggist and enjoy the incest, sentlest liver and bowel cleansing you ever experienced. Cascarets stop sick headache. biliousness indigestion, bad breath and constipation
 Mothers should give whole Casca- ret to cross, bilious, sick, feverish children any time. They are harmless and never Eripe or sicken.--Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30
OSTRICH PLUMES AGAIN

Ostrich plunes are slowly coming back
 into fashion. Paris provided them for the great middle class of women who suddenly became well-to-do through high salaries These women believe that seal skin coats, diamond solitaires and os-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

It Is alleged that frauds in the sale of Mexican government stamps have been discovered which will aggregate loss to the nation of over $10000o.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

enlivened by brass buttons and the dull red officers sash.
 These jackets end at the waistline In front and have square tails in back and high, straight collars that reach to the chin.
 THE CHEMISE SILHOUETTE
 One-piece frocks retain the chemise silhouette. There Is slight change in them from the tunics that we have worn for over a year. Doeuillet is the designer who introduced the slashed tunic. which makes change from the commonplace. This brings the silhouette Into line wiyh the Indian silhouette, which has been
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

trich feathers are still the symbols of y wealth. IL
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

' The strong desire shown by the great designers Is to follow the lines of the figure in all gowns. This eliminates pet
 ticoats in a large measure. When they are worn, they must be exceedingly slim and of soft material.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

These cravats are made of the cloth of the suit, lined with fanciful fabric, or they embody a brilliant color scheme, which has many advantages in that it brightens the suit and often makes 1t more becoming to the wearer.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

The tendency toward the Directolre
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-30

Hatters plush is strongly indorsed by
 the milliners for women's street hats. It
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

absence Of linen needleworkers are
using fine organdy. which is quite
as efective as linen when carefully
worked. A touch Of color enters into
a large percentage OF the modish
sets and admirable results are OBJ
talned through It.
The set with the embroidery de-
sign regularly distributed over the
collar is ideal for needlewomen who
delight in making eyelets. Satin
stitches may be used for the chains
Of dots which connect the daisies,
OF they may be worked in eyelets
to correspond with the flowers. AT
attractive feature Of the set IS the
scallops. which are quite out OF the
ordinary. OF course they are but
tonholed.
There Is nothing ioveiier thai
thin, crisp white organdy for EN-
broideries for children. They ar
not expensive and they always loo
we'll. Unless a child is unratura
which is another way OF saying tina
lat Is unusually particular In carin
for dainty clothes. the cheape
materials will answer the same pu'
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
Hand Embroidered Sets For Childish Needs.
There's No Denying The Charm Of Dainty Cuffs and
Collar on the Fashionable Dress or Coat

pose Of expensive ones when making
up cum and collar sets. For every
day wear pidue or cotton repp may
be substituted for Organdy
The second set Is worked entirely
in solid satin stitch upon fine white
pique. The needlework may be ex-
ecuted in colors, II preferred Delft
blue and white. rose and white and
brown and red being both fashion
able and effective. Fine white
plque has the advantage OF soiling
and crushing less readily than the
sheer stuffs, whole It is used in
connection with the finest Of mate
rials.
For children's use, there Is moth
ing more serviceable than all white
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

justment Is single.breasted. The
skirt IS a one-piece model trimmed
with bOx-plaits. the lower edge being
turned under in a deep hem.
The new velvets are to be recon-
mended for their wearing qualities,
although they do not give the service
Of serge, gabardne, etc. They are
quite as practical as the duvetyns and
suede cloths. The woman in search
OF rich looking material that is
within the average budget for dress,
however, will do we'll to consider the
cashmeres and woolen poplins with
silk finish. These are equally hand
some made in plain effect, depending
upon their cut and finish for ultra
modish effect, or trimmed with the
gay embroideries about which so
much has been heard. A fetching tai
ilored costume IN taupe cashmere has
round collar, though the collar may
Ibe finished in scalloped effect. The
fronts are laid In plaits below the
waistline and the sidefronts are
stitched onto the upper part Of the
Jacket in pointed effect with exten-
sions to which sash-ends are tied A
side-plaited skirt with panel front Is
worn with the jacket.
The rich, dark red velvets are de-
lnghtful when made up into separate
coats. Beetroot is the name Of a
fashionable red becoming 20 almost
Ian types and compilations. II is used
flor a velvet coat having a large col
liar OF fancy satin, that may be drapeC
land closed high at the neck or rolled
with the fronts, forming revers. The
lside-fronts' and upper back sections
lare tucked around the waist TO give
la bolero effect. The satins used fol
| trimming costumes and coats are
usually OF the imported variety and
lof a price commensurate with their
lloveliness. but there are many hand
lsome imported satin weaves, both OF
thigh gloss and dull surface, that are
mot prohibitive in price. In addition
ltO these, our own manufacturers
have turned out silks OF many kinds
THAT are a credit 10 our silk industry
las well as the envy OF foreign rivals
Handsome velvety suede cloth In
lplaid effect Is used for a coat that
Twill be generally admired. The de
, lslgn is quite long-about 46 inches
land is trimmed with plain velours
THE collar Is large. closing high al
the neck in draped effect. Like most o
the latest models. however, Il may b'
turned down 10 form some other out
line. The side-front OF the coat Il
Joined to the front little above thl
waistline under the belt At the bacl
there is an inverted plat. Pointe'
cuffs finish the one-piece sleeves.
2 Fduaiiy interesting is another Goa
!. OF check velours. with fronts hid Il
/ niaits forming a panel effect an
+ stitched down part OF the way. Cola
I and cuffs trim the one-niece ragla
I sleeves and belt are ~ black veive
Oistinguishing the collar is dee
I facing OF seif.material making Il MOI
/ sihis 10 effect a cache nez. IL the plai
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

velvet. A very pretty model IN
pahne Is doublebreasted although
the adjustment may be changed cas-
fly to single breasted effect. The
neck Is square and the enlivening
touches are collar. cuffs and belt OF
white broadeloth. Box.plaits trim
the back OF the dress.
An appropriate coat TO wear with
such a frock Is in light blue velours.
self-trimmed A large collar finishes
the neck and Is OF convertible
style. OF course Buttons OF volours
ornament the pockets and Guns OF
the one-piece sleeves.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

turn-doYn collar Is not preferred.
This coat is one OF the best models
Of the season, yet II is guiltless OF
fur adOrnment When one does
find an extraordinary modish coat
without some form Of peltry, Il comes
as a relief from the unendlng pro
cession OF ordinary furtrimmed
models, and the one just described Is
a case in point. Straight and long
and trim looking yet ample for
comfort, It Is distinctly OF the new
season.
One OF the elegant sights OF the
season Is the kiddie gowned in black
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

fold. to avoid seams.
Each notch in the pattern should
de duplicated in the material and It
is we'll to mark the "o' perforations
with a pencil or crayon. To begin
making the negligee. turn the edge
Of the back under on slot perforations.
lap folded edge to line OF small 90"
perforations in back OF sleeve, with
notches underneath even and stitch u
inch from folded edge. Gather back
gore at upper edge between "T" per-
forations and sew to lower edge Of
back and TO lower back edge OF sleeve
section e. with notches and center
backs even.
Take the pocket next and sew to
Opening in front OF negligee matching
the double and triple notches. Close
seam Of pocket matching correspond
ing notches; bring the seams at top OF
pocket (joining the pocket to 'front.'
together and tack. Turn hem In front
ON small 20" perforations. Large "On
perforations indicate center-front
Form 3 plaits in front placing "T''
on corresponding small co. perfora-
tions and tack. Close under-arm.
shoulder and sleeve seams as notched.
Close lower seam OF sleeve marked by
single notch and leave the seam free
(from small 20" perforation in front
OF sleeve to the top seam OF sleeve)
for an opening 70 slip the arm
through.
Face the collar and sew 10 neck
edge. II preferred the collar may be
made Of satin and faced with challis
For the finishing touch, take the sash
and plat end placing "T'' on cores
ponding small "o'' perforations and
tie in front as pictured An addei
touch OF daintiness is a shirring oi
satin extending from back 10 from
at the sides and finished with rosettes
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
tgsnven@fVpE 74e1

anything else Take two open widths
Of the material as long as the COM
bined length OF the front and sleeve,
and place right sides together. Laysec;
tion G, combining front and front
sleeve, on the challis with large 30"
perforations on a lengthwise thread
OF material. Place the sleeve 20 the
right Of the front, in the same way.
Opposite these two sections will be
room for the sash. II made Of self
material instead OF satin, the pocket
and back, all Of which should have
large 20" perforations resting on a
llengthwise thread OF material.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
GUIDE TO PATTERNS.

The fashions shown on this page
are Pictorial Review designs. Mum
bers and sizes are as follows:
Costume No. 7446. Sizes, 16 to 20
years. Price. 20 cents.
Ladies Jacket No. 1882. Sizes, "a
20 as inches bust. Price 20 cents.
Skirt No. 745S. Sizes. "a to 32 In
ches waist. Price, 20 cents.
Coat No. 7445. Sizes. "a to a in-
ches bust. Price, % cents.
Ladies' Jacket No. 74S9. Sizes, "a
to A inches bust. Price, 20 cents.
Skirt No. 1889. Sizes. "a 10 80 in-
ches waist. Price, 20 cents.
Dress No. 74s1. Sizes, s 20 l6
years. Price, Is cents.
Girls Coat No 74S2. Sizes, 20
IL years. Price, Is cents.
Coat No. 1853. Sizes. "a 10 a IN
ches bust. Price, Is cents.
Coat No. 745o. Sizes, IA 10 20
years. Price. 20 cents.
Ladies' Negligee No. 74s5. 81 es,
small, medium and large. Price ~
cents. (Home Dressnaker's Corner.
Embroidery No 1883. Transfer
: pattern OF the design for collar ana
: cuffs, 10 cents.
el No. 115ss-Design for collar ana
elcuff set stamped on white art hnsn' en-
with white embroidery c''''H'
Embroidery No. 1iSs7LIraniiiir naii.r
nattern OF the design for ln' ~
d and cufs. 10 cents ..rsS
II No 11ss7-Design for 0nstq
40. - .,6 set. stamped on white
> coist ST. WITH brown. blue or whiu> =
, sa.,,rojSery ar5 rlgSer cotton, 55 cents.
II l--..L.. HI 4 O.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
Home Dressmaker's Corner
A Negigee Of Chinese Blue Challis That Is Both
Interesting and Distinctive.

the back OF the negligee under plaits
The back gore Of the skirt is gathered
and Joined to the lower edge OF the
back IN raised effect. Pouch pockets
suggest drapery at the sides, while the
fronts are laid in small plaits under
the sash. In medium size the negligee
requires yards 36-inch material, With
3 yards 6-inch ribbon for trimming.
Upon the proper cutting Of the neg
ligee depends very largely its lines. It
is we'll to study the guides, both cut
ting and construction, before doing
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
Ribbon Remnants

This Is the time OF year 10 buy
remnants OF ribbon for your Christ
mas needlework. Short lengths OF
expensive ribbons are marked down
appreclably Just now and they serve
admirably for bags OF various sorts.
Wide ribbons which can be sewed to-
geiher and made into very striking
knitting bags can be bought for a
dollar or slightly more a yard. Mar
rover ribbons that can be made into
charming handbags can be bought
for lower priceP
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

Now, take the remaining challis
and fold in half. Place both the col.
lar and back gore on the lengthwise
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

sually soft and youthful model is the
ne shown here which the home dress
naker easily can duplicate. It is fash
pned Of Chinese blue challis trimmed
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
Baked Cream Com.

Make a sauce with cups OF MIX.
tablespoon Of -four, and teaspoon
Of butter. Season to taste. Scrape
enough corn from the cob 10 make
pint. put layer OF corn in baking
dish, then layer OF sauce, and layer
OF buttered cracyer crumbs. and so
on until dish is full, putting but
tered crumbs on top. One can Of corn
can be sed. but must be mixed with
u cup OF milk when taken out OF can.
as Il IS drier. Bake 20 minutes In
oven OF until brown.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
Tomato and Com Soup

Equal parts fresh tomatoes and
green corn scEaped from cob; few
Irish potatoes cut in small pieces,
about half as many as other vege-
tables; piece salt pork cut up NOT
too small. Keep adding water as y
boiis away and cook until PORK is
done.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
nv KATHRYN MUTTERER.

- OLLAR and cuffs sets have
come into their own once more,
and there's no denying the
charm OF dainty embroidered set
on a child's dress or coat. In the
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

embroidery. although the cslors are
exceedingly attractive. The laundry
Is not as likely 20 work havoc with
white as It is with colors, but the
latter have a great appeal because
OF their infinite variety.
Evening journal., 1917-10-10
By MAUDE HALL.

A PRETTY negligee is an IRE
"A sistible thing and few women
\ are there who can Withstand the
Nmptation to invest in one. An, un-
Evening journal., 1917-10-10

As accustomed as one is 10 the
combination OF black and white, new
effects are always OF interest. One
of the prettiest OF the advance de-
signs sent over from Paris IS in
black velvet OF soft, pliable quality
which permits tho plating Of the
four-piece skirt There is one large
box-plait at the front which forms
a narrow panel. with side plaits on
either side The waist Is fashioned
in surplice effect, the deep open
front being finished with q handsome
collar Of white satin. Crepe Georgette
is used for the vest, while the One
piece sleeves are shirred between the
elbow and wrist and trimmed with
white satin buttons. Sash ends, arc
attached to extensions on the front
Of the waist. then carried around 10
the back and tied.
Velvet is used for tailleurs OF eX-
ceedingly smart appearance. Paris Is
putting great emphasis upon the
dark, rich tones OF green, one Of which
was selected for a jacket and skirt
The only contrasting touch IS a belt
Of black moire silk TO hold in the full
ness at the waistline. A three-piece
peplum is attached TO the body Of
the jacket under the belt and the ad
Morris tribune., 1917-03-30

and east of railway right
Part p Fo of the 5% sEH of the
NEH and the SWA of
the NEA of
1912 acres of the sen of
the NWA and the SWA of
the NEA of
Part of the SEA of the
NEA and the SWA of the
lots 1, 2 and 3 and part of
the NEA Southwest of
railroad right of way of
That part of the NEA
north and east of rail-
way right of way of
All that part of Section
Thirteen (13), in Town
ship one hundred twenty
seven CPD North of Range
forty-four (44) West of
the Fifth Principal Meridi-
an. described as follows,
to-wit:-Commencing at
point on the south Sec
ton line of said section
where the same would
be intersected by the
northeasterly boundary
line of Pacific Avenue in
the Village of Herman
according to the recorded
plat thereof in the office
Of the Register of Deeds
of said Grant County, If
extended SoutheaSterly,
thence west along said sec
ton line to the Lake thence
following the shore Of
said Lake to a point
where it would be inter