The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-10-13
FITS NOT POPULAR
Don't Have EN- This Year,
That Is, To Wear.
New Model Gowns Loose. and
Hang UneVenly.
BY MARGARET MASON.
written for the Topeka State
.JournaI.l

l pray you do not have a fit 5
Dame Fashion will not stand for It.
Will simply not be dore this year
New York. oct. rS.-The bi-annual
fashion shows are now upon us and
languid, languishing models are un-
duIating a million dollars worth of
furs and metallic embroidery and bro
cades all over the smartest shops.
All the Worth while gowns are
there, they Doucet every one will
wear. Our old friend Pioret has pair
OF stunning ones with Chinese air, and
Lanvin, Callot, Fremet too and Pa
quin also show a few.
Since the Chinese tendency is so
pronounced in most all of the i'm
ported models the settings for the dis
play of the gowns is all Chinked and
lacquered and gilded and Chinese
Coded and rugged up. The models
glide around among the carved ivory
and teakwood and Chinese porcelain
as much at home as if they had never
been outside the Great Wall of China
in their lives.
And, oh. Those Living Models.
OF course "a few of the models are
allowed to sit on the Russian steppes
| and look like Olga of the Volga in fur
trimmed peasant blouses smothered
in fur and hectic worsted embroidery,
| but in fact the similarity between the
lines of the loose Russian blouse and
the loose Chinese coat, the brilliant
| olnbroideries and those of Russia, and
the lavish use of fur on both make il
rather puzzling unless you are con-
noiseur on Chinese and Russian art or
| at least of Russian and Chinese tea to
| tell one from the other.
After taking an oblique look and
getting a Chinese slant on those diff
| ferent showings of imported models so
rich in materials, reputation and price,
my advice to the woman who cher
iSheS the wild ambition of leading the
| mode back home is to wait until she
gets there. Then let her hire the viii
lage seamstress and have that person
age fit all her gowns on some one with
a figure the exact antithesis of her
own. When she dons them every
| body will be willing to swear she is
wearing a Premet or Doucet model OF
| the very latest.
Not Built to Fit.
| For the main aracteristic of al
the new models is their nonfittina
properties and the impression thai
they are built TO go on a totally diff
| ferent figure from the onefthey adorn
Necks are hacked out straight across
from shoulder to shoulder, or in loose
| ovals that pull hither and yon, sleeves
are also loose and flowing and wide
and the waists, if one may call then
! II,
human form at any given point OF
curve from shoulder to hip. Some o.
the skirts are caught up at unexpected
and awkward angles and indicate tina
if they hang evenly for any space
around the hem they are miserable
failures indeed.
On the evening models, where
draperies are the piece de resistance a!
tween the way the gorgeous length!
of metallic and velvet or silken bro
cades are draped on the foundations
of lace or gold and silver gauze
would cause the window dresser Of
the white front Dry Goods Emporium
back home to hide his head in shame
They give the non-elect the disturb
ing impression that the designer hat
stood on the near side of the atelie
and thrown the drape across the room
to the lace swathed form on the other
side, and then hied himself frantically
to pin the wanted stuff ere it hap.
pened to light.
Elaborate With Embroidery
The whole idea of the season sa-
torially seems to be a striving afte
the sketch impressionistic effect, OF
as photogra piers say one of those ar
tistic blurred portraits that make ev
cry one mystifyingly beautiful becaus
they are so misty of detail-we mus
have a fuzzy outline.
No doubt the super-abundance O
worsted embroidery that is used lavish
ly on every material to hand, even or
Iustrous chiffon velour, will aid in til,
fuzziness
If you can just manage to be fuzzy
ill-fitted and glittory with silve
threads among the gold. or bushe
of beads all at the same time, you
sartorial success for 1917-191S is as
sured.
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