The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-06-12
JULES, KING OF CHEFS, BOWS
 TO DEGREE OF WIPES PALATE
Mime Alciatore Smile Frown Lingerngy Tastes One of Her Husbands New Creations Decides Whether It Shall Ever Be Put Before the Patrons of
 Antones New Orleans Pride
By ZOE BECKLEY

eat one piece of meat in two months | Not that 1 am a vegetarian-far rom It, But fish is better food. Fish IS the sta- pie of our kitchen. Now take pom pano en palillote'-"
 Stopping my ears, I refused to listen | 10 pompano in ''curl papers, or to any of the other things that cost much gold and many American Express checks | Something cheapr' I walled. And Mon- sleur Jules had pity.
 FAMILY MEAL FOR 40 CENTS
 Take shank of ceal which should not l cost more than b cents. Cook it slowly l Tn an earthen pot, with a gallon ana a | half of water. Skim carefully. Then add l carrots, leeks and lettuce, all cut up In small bits. This handful of vegeta oles should cost nickel The lettuce mlgnt l De the outer leaves from yesterday sal ad, as you can buy a small, unchoice head for a trifle. Add a cup of rice. season with salt and pepper-and invite the family in.
 We shall call this potage de fla mille, says monsieur. For the next course, make a 'blanquette' from veal cut from the shank, covered with sauce made with flour and any good grease one has on hand, butter being too expen- sive To this sauce, when smooth ada a little lemon juice and quarter of grated nutmeg. This whole meal should cost 40 cents"
 An economical old Creole dish is called
 gumbo zerbes, the only gumbo it con- talns being in the name:
 Chop together a mess of turnip tops and mustard greens, which are cheap and excellent. Boil these with the rhind of fat pork Cor bacon), and serve very not, with pain patate Sweet potato bread) made as follows: Boil and mash live sweet potatoes add one cup of su- gar, one cup of molasses, half cup of melted lard, three eggs, some nutmeg and grated lemon peel Bake slowly in mild oven This is a balanced meal.
 Macaroni should be eaten more" says the world-famous gastronome. Tt IS cheap and nourshing, and can be cooked in 50 ways. Combine it with cheese, with tomatoes, with onions. with bits of meat fish, and with 'cepes' or dried mushrooms, which cost little and make almost any dish delightful and full of flavor.
 American cheese is good food; either the plain yellow kind or the 'Camem- bert made in Wisconsin, which has not the ammonia flavor often found in the imported. The secret of good and cheap eating is less meat and more eggs, fish, rice, macaroni, cheese and soups-and to get rid of the wasteful garbag ge pail,
 There should be nothing there but polished bones and eggshelsl The shell of every raw egg should be wiped out with the thumb. This economy alone adds an egg to every doZen,"
 It was from the senior Mime. Alca- tore that her IS children learned economy and the love of good eating Madame, now in her brisk and gourmetical eighty sixth year. has but one weakness. She will eat too many fritters on top of her broiled chicken and other courses! Didn't M. Jules have to scold her only the other day when she had the indigestion
 As for economy-name of saint Did she not write home from Europe on her last trip that she knew the vinegar barrel was aleak in the cellar and for somebody to see about it!
 Her daughter-in-law, Mime. Jules Alcia- tore, has a palate. Mon Dieu. what a sense of flavor! Does not Monsieur Jules try out all his new inventions on her? And watch her face as she tastes the soup or sauce or souffle.
 By its slow smile does he not know he has made another successful innova tion |? And when she frowns, does he not cast the experimental dish hopelessly into the puppy's basin? Alas yes
 And so the Alciatore family goes on generation after generation, making epi- curean history, yet living so simply that little shiny new motor car that re- gently came to live with them is looked upon as a sybaritish luxury
 The rooms above Antoine's--
 But there! l knew I couldn't keep from writing of the things every one writes, once I started. Stop me, some bodv-til