Evening star., 1917-09-30
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

-HERE comes a time in every
woman's life when she wants
fashions in paragraphs or. prob
4 ably. a better way to put It Is
that she wants her news capsuled 30
that she can digest it in the quickest
and easiest manner.
These are stirring times in tho world
of buying and selling women's apparel
Contrary to all the expectations OF tho
pessimists and the crcsking OF tho
gloomy prophets there Is scramble
for enough merchandise to sell to the
women on this continent at this mo-
ment They have money: they want
new clothes; Paris has sent aliurinS
costumery quite in keeping with our
spirit of wartime dressing: the shops
are crowded. and tho bulk Of the buy
ing has gone to the people who oner
clothes that are not eccentric or over
priced.
When fashions are slack women
have time to read about them in de-
tail when they are being rushed across
the stage: but now. as in an exciting
movie there is no time for comment or
philosophy. for theory or observation
News. Give US news" is what the
people cry who want to go out tomor-
row morning and buy.
This is no time. therefore. to dwell
upon one subject and embroider 1t bit
in an attempt TO catch woman's fancy
There is so much to say that there is
not half enough space in which 10
say it
A colossal cornucopia of fashions has
women and one is catching as one can
catch here and there. So much Is
changed. SO much that is new is OF
fered, so vast variety of stimulating
from the skies, as it were. that women.
ever alert for interesting clothes at
this season of the year, are asking
thousand questions and adding moro
before these are answered.
Under this stimulus the one who re-
ports fashions must try to meet the
situation by turning out the news In
that old, old form Of journalistic ex-
preston known as the reporters note
book. After a while affairs will SIM
mer down. They will establish them
selves on a sound basis and probably
remain on that foundation until next
February. However. there is no hope
for calm at this moment. and. therefore.
I pour out all the news of the hour in
paragraphs. They cover the situation
as far as It goes.
will wear high collars in the winter is
thai they are appearing in the cheap,
ready-to-wear blouses. Some of these
are boned and fit the neck. Others have
q rufie at the top of the high edge.
Neither style is as attractive as the one
that flares at the top in the French
fashion and envelops the flesh at the
top of the neck instead Of pushing it
up.
TIE strong desire shown by the great
designers is to follow the lines of the
figure in all gowns. This eliminates
petticoats in a large measure. When
they are worn, they must be exceed
ingly slim and of soft material
The tendency toward the directoire |
grows more marked as the autumn ad- |
vances. especially as regards colorful
waistcoats that fit the figure
Kolinsky will hold it's place as the
leader of peltry this season. 1t will be
lavishly used for trimming street suits. |
pliable skin allows it to fit in with the :
c1fnging drapery Of the year. Manufac-
turers say there is strong demand for
fine grades of Hudson seal. especially
for coats. Straight box coats that flare |
slightly at the hem will be fashionable.
Jet, in every form, will be acceptable
this year. The reopening OF the old
mines In England. which were once
worked Dy the MONKS, mas given a
strong impetus to the trade in black
crystal. Sequins will not be used. The !
surface will be facetted and highly pol
ished Entire gowns Of jet in superb |
design. mounted on black tulle, will be
offered as the first fashion for evening.
although they are very expensive.
Jet buttons will be put on gowns of
serge, satin, velour and velvet Belts of
Jet will be used on one-piece frocks for
the afternoon. The cadet sash of the
hour, which is used on short coats as
well as frocks, will be weighted with
thick jet tassels.
In more ways than any one could
think were possible. gray is mixed with
other colors. 1t is especially effective
when placed with subtle shades of blue.
Violet, he1iotrope, salmon, watermelon
pink and flame red are some of the
colors which are put with gray gowns
to be worn for all hours of the day
and evening. Gray one-piece frocks for