The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-03-08
HOW TO CUL LTWATE VARIOUS KINDS OF
 ROSES EXPLAINED
Budding and Grating Are Not Necessary to Get Sat
 isfactory Results.

Washington, D. C., March S.-The propagation of roses for hls own use is an essential part of the WofK or the home gardener if lie would reduce exnenses and add a new interest to rose growing.
 The nlants are propogated from seed. by hardwood cuttings, soft-Wood cuttings, layers, budding, and graft ing. The rose species used as shrubs, such as the Rugosa, Carolina, Pra1rie, and Wichuraina, are propogated by root sprouts and the others named by hardwood cuttings The Wlchu- raiana is naturally a trailing plant which takes root near the eye. By cutting rooted stems into pieces so that each one has some roots and an eye each one will make plant.
 Some rose species, like Rosa hugon- is, are difficult to grow from cuttings and are therefore grown by layering; that is, by covering shoots with earth until they are we'll rooted before cut ting them from the plant. The root ed stems of the Wichuraiana might be considered to be natural layers.
 Climbing roses are mostly propoga- ted by hardwood cuttings. Cut flow CT roses are grown from hardwood cuttings. greenwood or softWood cut tings, and by budding or grating.
 Hardwood cuttings are taken from the dormant wood of winter, while softwood, or greenwood cuttings, are taken when the plants are in active growth. To make a hardwood cutting, good. strong, well-ripened shoots of the past summers growth should be selected These are better if cut be- tween the time the leaves fall and freezing weather. If left until after cold weather there is danger of in- jury from freezing. They should be cut into pieces of or inches, with the upper cut just above bud, and should be tied in bundles with raffia or with string that does not rot easily if exposed to dampness. After label ing plainly they should be buried in moist sand, tops down, and placed in a cool cellar or buried in the open ground below danger of frost. They should be planted in the open ground in the spring about or little before corn planting time, so that one or two eyes, or not over 1 inch of the cutting, is above the ground, which will leave or inches in the ground. Care must be taken not to injure the cal fuses that have formed while the cut
 
 results are obtained by planting in partial shade.
 Frequently cuttings made in winter or early spring do nearly as we'll as those made in the fall, but in the North there is always danger of the wood being injured during the winter.
 Softwood, OF greenwood cuttings are made soon after blooming from wood of the current years growth. This may be taken from the stems that have grown roses or those that have not. There are claims that it makes a difference which sort of shoot is used, but good, strong shoots are the most important considera tion. These should be cut to three eyes. All the leaves should be removed except the top one, and all the leaflets should be removed from this except parts of two. These cuttings may or may not be made with "heel," which in this sense is a piece of older wood at the bottom of the cutting. The cuttings should be planted at once in light loamy soil or in sand in a bed where the atmosphere may be inclosed. A cold frame or spent 'hotbed is a suit able place if the glass is shaded or a cheesecloth frame is used instead of the sash. For a few cuttings many people have success by inverting over them a fruit jar or a glass dish. The cuttings, however, need to be shield ed from the direct rays of the sun when under glass, to prevent burning. The object of the inclosed atmosphere is to prevent undue evaporation from the leaves before roots have formed to support the plant. ] When roots have freely formed, the plants should be transplanted to good soil watered well, and shaded for a | few days from the midday sun. Sub- sequent watering should be moderate until they are we'll established Bud- i ding and grating are not necessary