Bisbee daily review. [volume] (Bisbee, Ariz.) 1901-1971, 1917-09-09
50rW0rlldr(SE Eye

Again Paris, forgetting. or at least
temporarily laying aside her sorrows.
prepared winter collection that am
ply compensated those Americans who
ventured to cross the Atlantic. The
consensus of opinion is that while
there is no radical change in the sill
houette. there are very many interest
ing developments in the day dress.
| The reign of this charming garment
is definitely established and We may
look forward to seeing it under many
guises. Although / might be tempted
/ to say that the chinese dress has
reached its highest development. hes
/ itate to make a statement today that
may be refuted tomorrow by the gen.
/ ius of the French dressmakers. Only
! too often have Americans been caught
mapping by the genii of the fashion
world, whose zeal in perfecting tenIa-
/ tive offerings is only exceeded by their
talent creating new modes American
women may look forward, therefore, to
a prolonged season of day dresses"
"chemise Dreams" call them what you
will
The Spanish influence, that the in
! fluence of ancient rather than mod
ern Spain, is making itself felt in the
decoration of the newest day dresses.
Just how strong this influence will
/ become is something that no one can
/ foretell. At no time during recent
years has Spanish art successfully
competed in the fashion world with
/ the art of the Orient, and this year
will probably prove no exception. But
/ BASQUE embroideries, laces from Cat
alonia and sash draperies, that recall
/ the days when Spain was the land OF
the Moor, are being adapted to the
needs of the moment 1t will be in
influence. If it lives we may per-
chance have a revival of the tight,
! long pointed basque fashion which
the majority of women dislike.
That the Orient is still paramount,
one glance of the gowns most general
ly liked will prove, for Japan and
China have been the source of the
most convincing inspirations. En-
broideries and laces from both coun-
tries are used in profusion, and the
kimona sleeve is prominent in one
form or another.
Indian designs also continue to be
very much liked, for despite the great
popularity last winter of the cashmere
shawl designs, we find them on many
of the newest dresses.
Speaking of trimmings and small
touches that mean so much to gown,
beads of all colors and many sizes are
being combined with metal threads in
a manner most fascinating. a smart
feature of the evening gowns will be
solid embroideries done in tourquoise,
emerald, sapphire and ruby beads.
Shoulder straps, girdles and tunic Dor
ders will also be of this form of EN-
broidery. The effect of these brilliant
motifs. shown, for example, in bold re-
lief on bold, silver and other metal
tissues. is magnificent. Another beau
tiful effect is produced by combining
black and bright gold beads in de-
signs that recall the striking ebony
o
There are some very lovely new vel
vets that are in high favor with the
modistes. Then, too, MORE silk, which
gowns, promises to be just as much
liked for hats. Like all the latest
war fabrics. this new silk is exceed
ingly soft and supple in texture and
is marvelously well adapted to the
present modes. The watered effect
is obtained by closely placed horizon
tai lines that are but slightly waved
AS the crowns of many of the hats and
practically all of the toques show a
pronouncedly draped tendency. the
NelVetS ana tnlS new MORE are greatly
in evidence Some of the prettiest of
these crowns are both shirrd and dra-
ped, and, when the brim is broad and
the trimming just a bit of burnt os-
trich plume. the effect is very charm
ing. A lovely fuzzy felt. ever so pill
able, and both black and white cara
cal. are also used for the draped
crowns.
The cloche has also changed its
crown and at the moment resembles
good-sized globe. The best models
have brims of satin lined with shell
pink or pale blue. and crowns Of shir-
red velvet.
Cloth top coat is more excessively
shown this season than those in any
of the other new fabrics. Plain col
ors predominant and invariably novel
ty buttons and silk stitching afford
suitable trimming on them. Fur. too.