davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
LOAN PAYMENTS
EXCEED AMOUNT DUE

Washington. Nov 15.-Federal rc-
serve banks reported to the treasury
tonight that 1t would take several days
70 tabulatc the food Of payments Of
tho Is per cent. instalmcnt on the Lib
erty loan received today. Although no
definite figures we're at hand, officials
predicted that final reports would
show that several hundred million
dollars moro than the sum actually due
ave been paid IN by subscribers. who
paid in fun for bonds today.
Three hundred million dollars worth
Of certificates Of indebtedness were re-
deemed by the treasury today from tho
Liberty loan proc, eds.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
WOUNDED CANADIAN
SERGEANT TALKS OF
CONDITIONS AT FRONT

sergeant Henry White of the sStb
Princess Louise Fusileers Reinforoa
ment Battalion OF Canada nassed
through the city yesterday on the aft
ernoon train. bound for Rrnnsvicl,
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
Frank Vana not Killed

Minneapolis Miss. Nov. 15.-Frank
Nana. recently reported in a war de-
partment casualty list as accidentally
killed with Gen. Pershing's forces in
France, is living in Minneapolis.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16

IN ECUADOR

Santiago. Chile, Nov. 1J.-Adviccs
from Lima. Peru. today announce the
breaking out Of a revolution in Ecua-
dor. Several localities are reported in
the hands of the reyolutionists.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
.PACHITCH ON WAY
TO ALLIED CONFERENCE

Paris. Nov. l5.-Nikolai 2. Pachitch, the
Serbian premier, according 70 Havas
dispatch from Corfu, left there yester-
day for Paris TO take part in the Allied
Conference.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
Gold Bars to Chile

New York, Nov 15-Gold bars
amounting to s2,20oo0o are being
shipped by the National City Bank 70
Chile for account Of the Chilean gov
eminent, TIE gold is to pay for pur-
chases of nitrates
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1917-11-16
Big Payments in New York

New York. Nov. 1.-THE second
payments by subscribers TO the second
Liberty loan received today at the
Federal Reserve Bank of New York
totailed ss1S $4,000 with 300 member
banks IN the district still TO report late
tonight.
The payments were divided as fol-
Iowa. certificates If Indebtedness sl73.-
,51.0f0, cash 81, sS0oo1. book credit
Sass TO 900
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25


son why something approaching the
tie back skirt and the hustle of 1870
so should net appear quite gradually
over the horizon for the better class
OF January clothes.
You know by this time, of course,
that the hustle is nothing more than
a hideous word for a bit of soft drap.
cry arranged to break the tight and
often inartistic line across the figure
at end of the spine. This drapery Is
the saving grace on certain types of
broad, stout figures. 1t may be al
most impossible to believe that among
this race of flat-hipped. long-limbed,
slim -chested, hig wasted American
women, which the last ten years have
produced, there are still women and
irany of them. who have what Is
called the ancient figure. tf course,
It is not the ancient figure at all, for
that Is the new figure to which all
modernists aspire. but what tho
dressmakers mean by the phrase Is
the 1880 figure. which has never been
controlled or suppressed or even
treated with contempt by n certain
segment OF American women. Chests
out, stomachs in, hips rounded ana
waists tightened is the artificial fig
ure that was stamped upon three
Generations Of American women and
mas not eNtlrely uleu out.
Strange to say 1t Is what the men
still call fine efigure. These males
scream against the corruption of the
corset and all other lamentable meth
ods Of artificalty, and yet, they lift
their glass ard take off their hats TO
the female figure that has NOT 81 nat
ural line[n It,
There are other women who have
long since forgotten that they ever
had waist, but they cannot sub
| merge the flesh around their hips and
tack and they look their worst In
|. chemise tunic and sandwich gowns.
| Therefore, the hustle drapery Is for
| them. II the dressmakers can handle
| IL in January In q manner that SUE
sests novelty and achieves artistic re-
suits, we shall probably SEQ y in the
foremost fashions.
Now as to the French bustle-it
was copied from the directolrc period
and taken, like all the d!rectoire
clothes, from the fashions of CEN
tury before Napoleon aspired to con-
| troll OF France. 1t merely transposes
the drapery as the Americans use II
from the back to the front. Those
who remember their history OF the
| directoire period. know that the la
dies of the dlrectoire had reason for
this drapery. II was a fantastic fash
lon,. based by feminine bravado on
| something far moro serious than
II clothes.
Rulloz Is the apostle Of this hustle
II you can call the drapery In front
by that name. Bulloz, thru his color
schemes and mis- daring has assumed
something Of the widespread author
ity in clothes that Paul Poirst held,
undisputed. until he went to war
Bulldoz dips his hands deep into his
tory, pulls out anything his fingers
can grasp and puts ,all that he finds
into the most modern Of clothes. Twl
years ago his efforts were not taken
seriously in this country; today, al
the designers over here who wish "a
cater to an exclusive patronage. bu,
freely Of Bullo4.
The hallmark OF his work this sea
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

bodice that belongs to all the ages
and is not the specific properly OF any
one epoch. Queen Elizabeth wore II
~ an exaggerated form. II belongs
to symbolic Britannia. It may be ad.
Vanced as the type OF upper garment
that Will act as a graceful substitute
for the sandwich tunic and will pre-
vent tho designers from bringing III
tightened walstline.
Its not possible for every worniii
10 swathe her street suits In belts, AL
tho she may look her best in this kird
Of medieval drapery In the evening
Therefore, there is crying need for
n different kind OF bodice from thos"
that are offered to us in profusion.
This corslet drops In n slim. straight
limo from shoulders to abou. three
inches below the waist at sides and
five inches below at tho back or tile
front,
Each designer uses her own pleas
tre In making the dip. Drecoll. for
example, is the sponsor OF the corslet
that dips downward in the back and
rides upward in the front, md Jenny
is the sponsor OF tho corslet that does
just the opposite thing. :
The woman who needs u bit or
vaistllne defined. but who cannot
stand the swathing. Slavic girdle, has
been catered to by Cheruit, Jenny and
uceuillet In the use OF thy belt or
another fabric and sometimes OF an
other color. This chavat belt appears
iu groups OF two or three. Or singly.
II does not pull the corslet in IN inch
narrower than Its own width: IL
merely defines large walstllne.
Lanvin and many others who took
up the American Indian motifs IN
Dress for this season. have advanced
small, beaded belt which nay be
bought at the shops and attached ~
n corslot II desired
II the narrow, draped skit~ ,s~es
the place Of the narrow. straight skirt
~ January. It may ho easily attached
to this slim corslet that dips DOWN
| ward In front Watch out for this
| ailhouette. The rumors concerning
It are so strong that1t Is foolish to
| turn a deaf ear to them.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

son Is that drapery across tho front
of the figure below the waist. II ~
ceftly done. This drapery really
sinks into the surface OF the skirt and
drips down into the cascades that run
below the knees at each side.
The entire dressmaking world OF
Taris was bit touched with this
lfashion. When you look at all tho
rev gowns that smart women appear
In, and when you gaze at the top win
Gcws to try TO choose tho frock you
would like to wear, you may notice
that n common thread of idea runs
thru them all in this uplifted line in
the front of the skirt.
This trick, as you remember, is not
rev to tho twentieth century. II be-
longs TO the days out of which Goethe
created Faust Thruout the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries. there was
n disposition to drag the clothes up
in the front and tie them in loopingS
and drapery below the waiStline by
running a cord under the ful!ness.
Revolt against long coats.i
II looks as tho a revival OF this
fashion were upon us The skirts are
dragged up so definitely In front
either by tho cut of the hem or by the
placement OF the lace or fur. that we
have become accustomed watching
for that upward tilt In every new
II ock that appears. The mouse of
Cnllot has always tilted the movt-
ment OF her skirt at its hem upward
In the middle OF the back or the mid
die of the front. but this is n different
type of fashion and II is taken from
rnore primitive days.
Another interesting phase of fash
ion that Is passing before our eyes at
this time is revolt against the uni
versal type OF three-quarter coat
which the shops brought out in great
numbers and offered to the public
with such forceful persuasion earlier
In the season. There was no fullness
in this coat. 1t was a stralght-up
piece, with n flat back and n single
breasted fastening.
II is against this type of coat that
the women have reyolted. They do
not like the line. When they ouy the
coat ready to wear. they insiat that
the tailor cut off six inches from Its
hem IN order to bring 1t up to a
graceful length.
II is not easy to say why there was
such a sharp distinction drawn he
tween the exclusive and high-pdiced
tailored suits and the majority OF
those that sold from $40 TO S35. The
rank and file of women could not
give $50 for suit, so that price In IT.
self justified coat of the newest
! type, but, as n rule, 1t did not bring
it, One had to go to the tailors who
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

took the coat that had been created
by Bernard In Paris and shipped over
to this country early In August, and
wo copied II by the thousands. II is
one Of these thousands. that you are
asked to buy wherever you enter a
shop now for your winter coat suit
But Bernard. mind you, covered ur
half that long surface with cufs
hem of handsome peltry and. there
fore. broke the line in most asre 3
able way, but the American shaps
omit the fur and hand you out the
plain. 'unvarnished garment that has
very little style to 1t. Avoid II If you
can.
The coat with a belt, n short, flat
peplum, two or three buttons In
front and "a high covar that extends
to the chin. is the fashionable coat.
You may not be able to wear II as II
siands. but YOU can endeavor To como
as near II as your figure will permit.
IL is apt to be too jaun,y for certain
types OF women, but any clever patr
OF hands can ad lust II to the demands
Of the stout, broad or tall frame.
There Is another change Ct sill
houette that you must be ready to re-
ceive. There Is corslet or cuirass
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

France puts hustle in front OF
gown, and America puts 1t in the
back. Such Is the interesting strug-
gle going on between designers.
Two men, one on this continent and
one OF that, were responsible for the
1917 bust.o, and It may be confidently
asserted that no woman designer had
q part In Its creation or development.
1t took the public JUST six weeks to
level the fashion TO the comm onplacc.
1t is because of this public acceptance
that the style must be dealt with
generously by the reporters of fash
ion who usually can give only passing
attention to each new Idea MS II iY
shot across the battlefield of aDparei.
One mans idea attracts attention, but
that attention is DETECTED by every
other mans idea, but when this indi-
vidual idea IS multiplied a thousand
times by buyers and sellers, by wo-
men who pretend to be fashionable
and by those who care nothing for
the word. then the fashion becomes
"the STYLE" as we term IL in this
country. which is our nearest equiva-
lent to the French phrase, &c est la
mode
II you talk earnestly with those
who deal In exclusive clothes, you
will hear them say thai the silhou-
cue TluSl CIlHilsc tilil ~ 10 iiioic
than probable that the bus'le Will
become more Of feature n the
spring among high-class designers
than 1t is today
There Is no disposition on the part
of the American woman to save IN
tho buying of clothes despite all the
propaganda on this subject, and no
matter what comes later, II the war
continues. the process of buying goes
or merrily today.
There is not the slightest idea of q
return to fullness In frocks or coats
There are two good reasons for this
announcements scarcity OF mater
Ia, in certain quarters and the wish OF
the various governments OF the woruu
for strict conservation, and also the
fact that we have been over surfeited
with fullness In clothes and the very
sight Of such gown gives US
equeamish attack OF sartorial indiges-
ton. 1t Is almost unbearablc today
to look upon looped, panniered, be-
frilled or be-flounced costume. we
wore hoopskirts, even tho they were
disguised under the name Of the far
thingale until we felt ashamed to
look at a barrel. and II Is not possible
for either the French or the Ameri-
can designers to compel us to turn
our attention to such clothes In the
immediate future.
We want slimness. we look our
very best In s,imness, and We are
quite willing to wear less inateria
than since the civil war, but we are
tired Of tunics. Our trouble Is thai
we don't want return, to the small
waist. we will not have more materla
put into our clothes and we, Insist up
on a straight line from armhole tt
hips, but something must be done
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25
The Same Old Game.

A humane society has secured
show window and filled 1t with attrac-
tive pictures of wild animals In their
native haunts. placard In the mid
die of the exhibit read:
1--WE were skinned to provide wo-
men with fashionable furs."
A man paused before the window
and his harassed expression for n mo-
ment gave place to one OF sympathy.
81 know just how you feel. old
tops" he muttered. 80 was l"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

with our skirts. II our palate for
clothes As to he ticklcd any further:
The dressmakers concur In TINS
wish. In fact. they further it,. for
they are afraid Of the approaching
January which opens the winter sea
son. when women are tired OF their
autumn clothes and turn to their
chosen dressmakers for a whole new
supply Of dashing frocks and suits.
Contrast in Bustlcs.
Under the influence of this impa-
tience and annoyance with a contiE-
uity of line in clothes, there is no rea-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25
FRANCE PUTSA
BUSTLE IN FRONT
AND AMERICA PUTS
A BUSTLE BEHIND

Both of them are merely bits
of artistic drapery to break
the long, flat line of the
figure. The revolt against
the three-quarter coat is
evident, and the short jacket
is preferred. The corslet
bodice, which dips down in
front or in back, is brought
out by great designers, and
it may be attached to the
pull-back skirt.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25
All That's Necessary

"Don't tell me you's lookin' foh
work" said Uncle Eben. "All you
go,ter 20 now to git n job is to stand
fo'th whore de work kin see you"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-25

charged we'll over 500 to got tho tyre
of jacket that was considered smart
by Paris and was accepted by the we |
Iessed women In this country. We
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
NEW YORK. NAV 2s.


Of unexpected happened in
points without special
overdue Before the market
States Steel
stocks including Crue
tee, adv to newhI
which had tous the
l2O seemed have again
deem mined through a
Steel common In the
Of the efforts
within about points
Of reflected
speculative qud a
tinet the because of those
ndustras weak and assumed
advances being
enectv a
Of the net
position with the third
production placed at 3O cents
for August delivery
market without change
traded in blocks Rubber were
in at 10
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
STOCK TRADING is INACTIVE HERE;
MOVEMENTS OF PRICES ARE IRREGULAR
List Follows Trend Taken in Wall Street-Most Business
in United States Steel Common-List Additional
Securities

A little more activity was seen in phu,.
dephia Rapid Transit trust certificates. bu,
the increased business done In this issno
was at the expense OF the price which de
clned a fraction. The Street continues 20
maintain the watchful waiting attituSo
with regard to Transit Stock of the Tinted
Gas Improvement Company was unchanged
and the companys warrants lost a littIe
The following securities were admitted o.
trading in the unlisted department TO-DAY.
Girard Trust Company deposit recein,.
for $500 additional Lehigh Valley TrsnsS,
preferred making total listed s3.4s7sS6
$2S9, 900 additional Commercial Trust co,s
pany certificates of deposit for Pbils6ai
phia Company consolidated mortgage snd
collateral trust 5s 1851, making total Iis,aS
$11,375.000, $296,000 additional Proyident
Life and Trust Company certificates on A.
posit for Philadelphia Company first r,ort
gage and collateral trust 5s 1919, maxim,
total listed S4,75s,OOO. 1892 addtionai
shares American Stores Company comnon
(no par value), making total 141, ,1s6 shares
listed.
There was placed on the regular LIST s9oo
additional American Telegraph and Te,ol
phone stock. There has been stricken 80
the regular list $4,000 Pennsylvania Rail.
road consolidated mortgage per cent bond,
1943, Cancelled in the sinking fund.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28

At no time during the whole days trading
on the Philadelphia stock Exchange was
there any great amount Of activity MOST
Of the trading which did take place was IN
the morning session, and after midday only
a few issues came out. The tone OF the
market was pretty much the same as that
ruling in Wall street, there being show OF
strength in the morning which was Followed
by a reaction in the afternoon.
The recession in prices. however was by
no means general, many issues maintain
ing a small gain over the closing ngures OF
Saturday This made the list Irregular.
The widest gains we're In the arbitrage
group, and OF these. Reading although II Is
listed on the local exchange but the major
ity of the trading taking place in New YORK,
registered the widest change. gaining 8h
points at the high This high price was not
held 20 the close.
with the large turnover in the stock In
wall street again today II was natural to
expect that United States Steel common
would be the most acr=ve here. After regis
tering "A gain in the morning, the STOCK
showed a loss in the afternoon amounting
TO more than II points. The stock moved
over the same course in New York, and the
selling Of It there was said TO be by large
operators who we're taking their prohts IN
order to accumulate some Of the railroad
shares
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
NEW YORK, May %.

~S' AOANNf May 90
A low condition reported by the Com.
mercial Appeal resulted in a wave of buy.
ing at the cotton opening today on which
prices were carried up to 10 points The
tone was firm.
After the early demand had been salts.
fled the market eased off rather rapidly. II
appeared that the high levels established
brought in realizing and an additional sum
ply from commission houses, whereas the
buying fell off and as a result prices at
the end Of the first ten minutes Of bust.
ness had dropped to Is points under the
opening
The early advance carried the market
about 12 to 21 points net higher July
was relatively frm making a new high
record for the season when Il sold at 2t.77,
but later deliveries did not quite recover to
the high point of Saturday morning. The
advance, however, was sufficient to bring
out n good volume of realizing and stop
orders were uncovered on a scale down to
2l,4O for July and 21.03 for October with
the general list quoting about 16 to %
points net lower during the middle Of the
morning.
Another private crop report was issued
pointing TO reduction of per cent in
acreage and making the average condition
only Ill.
In the afternoon prices showed recovery
of or more points on covering and rebuys
ing by operators who had sold out pre-
viously. Sentiment continued mildly reac-
tionary. chiefly on account of a supposedly
weak technical position from some sections
of the belt Crop accounts showed inn
provement Demand from spot firms caused
July contracts to rule relatively firm.
The close was from 25 to 40 points net
lower.
There were no exports reported today.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
DIVIDENDS DECLARED

Illinois Central Railroad leased lines. regular
Books close June IL and reopen Juiy S'uS l.
Mexican Petroleum Company. Ltd reR,iIar =
payable July 70 stock q record June Is s'0'A
Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company. reg
stock. payable June l to stock Of record tSs ttSs
Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company rsv,,,a.
quarterly OF 3 per cent on the common sfSeL
June /. 'N reopen
Morris and Essex Railroad COMPANY ros,,t. .
semiannual q 81 per. cent, payable jtffy
Books close MAY ~ and reopen June 2s -
West Penn Traction and Power Companv -
stock. payable June 10. NteAVIied
Kennecott Copper, quarterly Of 81 80 a sb.r.
This is same as three months ago. 9"ofs'
Pennaylvania Lighting Company reRnlsr s.,,t
annual annual " Per cent cent on the common stock.
Brooklyn Rapid Transit Regular o19syrtSesii -.
m per cent. payabh July TO stock OF record ID
E9uitabls Illuminatlns Gas Light Compsnv
sce bisuS psssbis June 70 S'1 S9 ass prssd
ord June 3. - rec
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
REACTIONARY TENDENCY DEVELOPS
IN TRADING ON BROAD STREET CURE
NEW YORK. Nav 2S.

declines
evidence
n
a issues at the
and recorded
nunlion Maxim Munton selling
s5 dropped to 37 There
Film with inside accumulation in connec
Of reduction
famr that
IL moved with the rest OF the
today to
standard Ohio Oil selling 85S Independent
,oors 28A 26 and
Sinclair soldfr 35 to 34l4
] strong with Ledge another strong
Ohio Copper
United Motor
at o the 6hs traded in at 80
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-05-28
Financial Briefs

The Westinghouse Electric and Manufac-
turing Company for the fiscal year ended
March 81 reports gross earnings of $ss,-
539442, as against S5O,269,24O the previous
year The company's net profit increased
from S9,es.S96 TO S17461,6OO.
The Logan Trust Company has issued to
customers and friends Invitations to inspect
it's new banking building at 1431-i433
Chestnut street June 1.
The New York Subtreasury gained S77s.-
600 from the banks on Saturday, making a
cash net gain since Friday of S3,07s, 900.
The Liverpool Cotton and Grain Ex-
changes were closed today, Whitmonday.
There was no session of the London Stock
Exchange today, Whitmonday.
The New York Stock Exchange has ad
mitted to the list new United Paper Board
Company, Inc, permanent INTERCHANGEABLE
certificates for Sl,2ls,SOO common stock.
on the New York Stock Exchange today
United States Government registered 2 per
cent bonds sold $4,000 at 96%. =.
owing to the fact that Wednesday win
| be a holiday. the weekly auction sale OF
securities by Barnes & Lonand will be held
| tomorrow.
There was a substantial increase in the
| shipments OF fuel over the Pennsylvania
Railroad lines east Of Pittsburgh and Erie
for the month. OF April as compared with
| April of last year. The total shipments
for the month were 6.S2l,0s6 TONS a gain OF
420.S64 This total was made up of 7s2,
4 iSs tons OF anthracite an increase Of 1864
tons; 4,461,3 ,303 tons OF bltuminous, a gair
| of Bsi, $50 tons, and l,077.ss3 tons OF coke
q decrease OF 1889 tonA