The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1917-09-15

the position Of hat on the head
makes all the difference In the
world in the character Of the whole
costume. A rakishly tilted hat can
give coquetry to the sternest tall
ored suit; but ralishness in milli-
merry is not now the fashion. Dig
nifty is the desired ideal this season
dignity combined with smartness.,
And If you do not believe dignity and
smartness are compatible - study
the Paris women during these days
Of war time.
Among the new feather "fancies,"
are oddly shaped wings with
fringes of burnt peacock. pompoms
Of coque for military turbans, and
bands of pasted coque for large
crowned sailors Of felt or velvet.
One of the enchanting white hats
land white hat Is altogether desir-
able for matinee or restaurant
wear!) has a very tall crown COW
cred with this dainty pasted coque,
and a four-inch band of white satin
joining the feathery crown and a
mushroom brim OF white satin
which rolls up at sides and back,
the front slanting over the eyes. or
course there is bit of ribbon on
this hat. A fall hat minus ribbon
is almost inconceivable, 50 great is
the vogue for ribbon trimming.
High at the front Of this delectable
satin and coque turban is a small
cartwheel OF pleated white gros-
grain ribbon with ends that stray
down, across, the satin band to the
very roll of the hatbrim. The hat
is part of an afternoon costume
which includes a navy blue satin
frock trimmed with white satin and
white pearl buttons.
Felt Buttons Trim Beaver Hats.
Strikingly smart is a huge
crowned model Of black silk beaver
and white French felt; the crown
of beaver and a slightly sloping
mushroom brim of white felt. AT
the base of the big crown is a band
of black ribbon, crossed in front
and fringed at the ends: and on the
ribbon band are groups of overlap
ping buttons cut from white felt in
about the size of silver half dollar.
Another large crowned sailor is of
black velvet, with rust colored vel
vet under the brirn, and band
trimming of narrow black gros-
grain ribbon from which sweeps
back long antler feather of burnt
ostrich in shaded rust and gold.
Cross Stitch Embroidery on Hats.
Cross stitch designs in richly
blended silks are perhaps the new
est and most striking trimming on
autumn headgear. The designs are
conventional, rectangular and tri-
angular motifs being the favorites,
and the embroidery takes the place
of any other trimming, the hat gain
ing a strikingly simple line thereby.
Chenille embroidery in russell, gold,
olive or gray, is also much used on
sailor shapes in felt or velvet.
Feathers in Freakish Shapes.
Feathers are going to be inn
mensely fashionable this fall-but
not just ordinary feathers. No hope
OF having last years ostrich plume
curled and redyed for the winter
hat; the new feathers must have
IAN Individuality" Sometimes this
individuality is decidedly freakish
in suggestion, but always it is dis
tinctly smart. There are all varie-
ties of burnt feathers-burnt ost-
rich, burnt coque, burnt Numidie,
the latter a very fair imitation of
the beautiful but costly genuine
Numidie. Pasted coque is another
fall novelty. Hundreds of tiny
coque feathers are pasted on a band
trimming to go around hat crowns,
and there are whole crowns of past
ed coque, so soft and downy in APP
pearance that one longs to stroke
them. There are dashing, tall feath-
er "fancies" for large hats, and
small, chic feather ornaments for
lturbans. A great many wings are
seen, also, the favored style being
a pair of tiny, pert wings mounted
on long quilts. the arrangement
suggestive of little Japanese fans
with long handles.
AS said before, Paris is wearing
great deal of felt millinery just
now, and all the felt hats are soft
and supple, with tall crowns and
narrow, rolling brims. Velvet and
plush are used for turbans that
have soft, draped lines and a rather
dignified appearance. Hats are worn
straight, not tipped toward one
side, or backward or forward; but
most hats settle low on the hair
nearly to the eyebrows, the head
being hidden in the large, high
crown. Black hats, as always, are
popular for early wear, but the
smartest color in millinery promises
to be gray.