davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
SILK is REPLACED
BY WOODEN JERSEY

Chanel takes up horizon blue jersey
in an excessively supple and fine
weave which resembles the best quail
ity Of StOckinet, and makes 1t into a
charming one-piece frock combined
with biscuit-cOlored jersey, then it is
natural that women want such clothes.
Becomes Standard Material.
The dominant thing that has been
done this season is to change Jersey
from an unimportant Sport material
into an important standard material.
1t rivals serge and crepe de chine.
Strange to say, the silk weave is alb
sent from the French gowns, and
gowns and suits of it are sold by the
American dressmakers at absurdly low
prices, as if they knew that its doom
was sealed.
Beige, biscuit, string color and three
tones of gray rule in the one-piece
wooden jersey frocls, but dark blue.
dull red and horizon blue are coming
strongly into favor. These frocks are
usually made in one piece, and all the
varieties of drapery and plating and
barreling that prevail in the other
frOcks are used in the jersey.
This material has also been intro
duced into juvenile clothes with
marked success. 1t promises to su-
persede muslin. silk and linen. Romp-
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
Big Elephant Butte
Dam Will Curb the
Rio Grande Floods

The United States reclamation service has COM
pleted by the building Of the Elephant Butte dam
a reservoir capable Of impounding 1862 200 1000
gallons of water. That is to say, within artifi
cial lake 45 miles long and with shore line of
216 miles, water enough will be stored to be
spread foot deep over an area of 4,285 square
miles; or. if twice that Depth 1t would cover the
state of Delaware. The purpose Of this water is
TO irrigae $4,000 acres in four valleys lying be-
low the storage basin In New Mexico and Texas.
While the dam itself is not so high as others In
the United States for a kindred service, still the
massiveness Of the structure and the capacity of
the reservoir make the project not only the big
gest thing Of its kind in the United States but the
most ambitious in the world. The famous Assuan
dam in Egypt impounds only two-thrds as much
water and cost S14,0000O0 more than the Elephant
Butte structure. 100000. Elephant butte
is in New Mexico. about twelve miles west of
Engle, and In order to carry materials to the dam
site 1t was necessary to build branch railway
nearly thirteen miles long tapping the Atchison,
Topeka and Santa Fe line. The government con-
structed this road and operated something like
fourth Of 1t. and in this way saved $4,000 in
freight charges alone.
The dam Is built of great rocks buried In a mass
of concrete and blocks canyon on the Rio
Grande. From the lowermost point of the parapet
wall the dam rises 318 feet and nearly a third of
this is below the river bed. At its top the struc-
ture has a length Of 1874 feet and on 1t runs a
fine roadway 16 feet WIDE The dam Is 225 feet
thick at It's base and the entire mass, which called
for 10000 cubic yards Of material, represents q
dead weight Of 100000 tons. This strength and
inertia needed to halt the onrush Of the cratic
and the torrential Rio Grande and to hold the
accumulated waters that they may be supplied
slowly and safely to the widespread acres reach
ing for III miles.
Work was begun in 1911, and half of the sue
ceeding six years was taken up in preliminary
operations before the great bulwark could be
reared. This preparatory work called for the con-
struction of a great sluice to divert the rivers
flow and enormous bulkheads subsidiary dams
above and below the permanent dam.
The climate is an equable one In the region
opened to the farmer. and the soil is abundantly
productive when properly watered A practical
husbandman with 5000 working capital has
splendid chance.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
Jnimportant Sport Material
Changed in Season to I'm
portant Standard Fabric.
COATS GIVE WAY TO cAPES
Women Are Not Expected to Accept
Argument That They Should Show
- Patriotism by Buying No
New Clothes.

New YOrk.-Despite the persuasion,
pleading and argument of the hundreds
Of women who have organized them
selves for preparedness to the effect
that women do not buy any more
clothes, but give this money to nation
al defense, the process of arranging
new apparel to meet the season goes
steadily on.
Surely, the appeal of these women
must be based on ignorance of con-
ditiOns, for they have the welfare of
humanity in their hearts or they
would not organize into bands for civic
help; but to plead that no woman
should buy new clothes and that She
should frown upon the pegtOp and the
melon skirt because they are new
fashions and demand the purchasing
OF new clothes, is to argue in way
that would take the very food out of
the mouths of millions of workers.
These women argue that we should
follow the example of France, Eng
land and Germany and that our wOIn-
en- should make q sacrifice of clothes
In order to show their national spirit.
But why? The resources of France,
Germany and England were needed for
war, which was sprung upon them
without any warning and found them
unprepared finahcially. This isn't a
Pigment of the imagination, but the
statement Of financiers and captains of
industry.
Women Will Buy Clothes.
However, 1t takes very little argu-
ment to persuade women that their
national spirit should be shown in
spending their money on clothes, if
they have it to spend. Everybody is
benefited all down the line, to the
little cash girl six years old in the
slums Of the city, whose money is
needed to give more bread to her fam
lily. Therefore, accepting the fact that
new fashions will be as popular as
ever and that new clothes will spring
up afresh as the leaves on the trees
and the grass on the ground. it is best
to content ourselves with telling what
1t Is wise to buy, rather than arguing
for and against buying.
A summary Of what is accepted may
be wise at this time. To begin with,
there never has been q season when so
much wOrsted Jersey was worn. The
doom Of the average skirt and silk
sweater was struck when the fashion
able season at the winter resorts
opened on the first of the new year.
The One-piece frock of any material
superseded the other two garments in
combination.
Varieties of separate short coats
were worn. made of anything from vel
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

gathered. hauled to market and made by weight
- bushels to the acre, and brought money value
of $50 per acre.
drop three grains to the hill, and never missed
putting three grains in the hill. but too often
dropped four grains. which made the corn too
thick, and this condition reduced the yield fully
ten bushels or more to the acre. But think Of Y
bushels Of corn being grown on land that had not
for over 20 years produced more than 20 bushels
to the acre. and this feat accomplished in so short
time and with little expense as the cost of
the vetch seed was but $3.50 an acre.
This experiment with vetch made Mr.. Smith a
vetch enthusiast. The following year he planted
ten acres of better and higher land to vetch, and
the yield of corn on this land after the vetch
over 80 bushels PEP acre, the cost of the vetch
seed for this field being only So per acre. Similar
experiments were made with the growing of sweet
corn and potatoes on land that had first been
planted to vetch, and the results were equally
successful.
Vetch, according to Mr. Smith, is respecter
of soils. 1t settles down and makes its home with
the rich or poor clay as well as the rich or poor
sand and commences its business of soil restora-
ton at once 1t has terrors of frost draught.
Winter will grasp 1t with it's hand and hold it in
the warm sunshine of spring releases 1t. it smiles
with its freshness Of green and continues doing
business at the old stand. The drought Of fall,
spring or summer will blow its breath upon It, but
it needs it not and continues it's business of stor
ing fertility in the soil though 1t were being con-
stantly caressed with refreshing showers.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
Not In His Class.

Arthur. at five. had never played'
much with children Of his own age,
but had always had for his associates
grownups and people much older than
himself. When he reached this age II
was decided to send him to kindergar.
ten. that he might become interested
In other children. After he had attend
ed about a week his grandmother
asked him how he liked II, to which
he replied. with a blase air: "Oh,
guess it's all right. but the people all
seem SO awfully young to q person like
me-"
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

This evening gown is of white satin,
the skirt embroidered in gold. The
pointed bodice is of black velvet with
shoulder straps of jet and jet orna-
ment with tassels In front.
ers, country clothes and beach suits
are made by the hundreds In white,
horizon blue, deep pink and gray
touched with blue and silver. This is
an excellent idea, for the material does
not wrinkle, is easily cleaned or
washed and does not shrink. 1t also
goes longer without ironing than any
other kind of fabric intended for con-
slant service.
Another segment of the wheel of
fashion in which this wooden jersey
has appeared is the long cape gathered
TO slight yoke at the shoulders. with
Sits at each side for the arms and
finished at the top with an immense
handkerchief collar that fastens on
the left shoulder. These capes are
lined with brightly figured Chinese
and japanese silks.
Another distinct change in fashions
is the insistence upon capes instead
of topcoats. Nine. Paquin and Nine.
Georgette wore these capes in Paris
all through the winter and fea-
tured them at the spring openings.
The house of Cheruit also turned out
gOodly number of them, with all
the peculiar tricks that belong to this
little group of designers.
The only topcOats that the smart
houses offer are for sport use, and
they are made of colOred velveteen
and stOckinet jersey in bold, gay de-
signs. For other hours and purposes,
the Mpe is offered instead of the top
coat. 1t is of serge lined with fig
urcd crepe; it is of satin lined with
horizon blue or fiamingO pink; it Is
of Chinese blue wooden jersey lined
with gray; and 1t is in gray lined with
pink, blue or yellow.
A woman will own as many capes
ut she once owned sweaters. They
not only appear as outdoor garments
but as indoor accessories to house
gowns. They are also used for late
afternoon and evening wear, indoors,
and are Of chiffon or net. They are
banded with bright materials In the
same color, they are lavishly embrOid-
cred with beads, silk floss and bullion
threads, and again they are made Of
chantilly, Spanish or filet lace, IN
lined and ungirdled.
There Is no limit set on the usage
of figured silk for Innings and facings,
and the capes offer excellent advan-
tages for this fashion. This trick new.
er had such instant success as this
season.
Copyright. 1911. by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate.)
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
An Air Of Youthfulness.

The smartest suits are narrow and
short and have an air of jaunty youth
fulness that appeals to femininity.
Lanvin has brought out a pretty little
suit with hip-length, straight coat but
toned straight down from collar to
edge, the buttons set closely together.
There Is a narrow, turnover velvet col
lar and the sleeves are in mannish coat
style, stitched in rows Of sewing silk
at the waist. The skirt Is two yards
wide, stitched in rows at the edge and
just covers the buttoned boot top. Bar
rel pockets below the hips give the
correct bullying silhouette, and these
pockets are also decorated with rows
Of sewing silk stitching.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
HORSE MEAT MARKET OPENED

pervise the slaughterhouses and take
every precaution to safeguard the con-
sumner. DR.. w. Horace Hoskins. dean
of the New York State Veterinary col
lege, has written the following letter
to the department Of health Of New
York city in regard to the new ven
ture: 81 am much interested, and
quite approve Of the action of your
department in permitting the opening
of establishments for the sale Of horse
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
Ivy and Oak Leaf DESIGNS.

The oak leaf veil is one of the sprina
patterns. An oak leaf design covers the
edge of the veil to a depth Of scveral
inches and shows upon the face from
nose to chin. Another pattern much
liked is the ivy leaf. The designs are
delicately wrought In hand-run effect
on fine mesh yelling. and are not ugly
nor grotesque as some of the heavies
veil designs have been.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
Beauty Of the Eyebrow,

Consider what the face would look
like If it were without eyebrows. How
very important a part of the facial
makeup they are! Very often a face
that is otherwise extremely plain is
enhanced by brows that are beautiful
" arched and well groomed in appear
ance.
Opinions vary as to what is consid-
cred the really beautiful line and
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18
CURIOUS CONVERSATIONS

A new plane Is provided with a shield
for the hand to prevent It being
bruised.
A, sparrow for a short distance can
squirt by wing up to so miles an hour.
Forty-one women out Of every 100
marry between the ages Of twenty and
twenty-five.
Shutters that can be operated from
a drivers seat have been invented to
protect automobile radiators from
freezin1.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

The first market for the sale OF
horse flesh In New York city, ana
probably in the United States. has been
opened, and If 1t is successful the city
is to have other establishments for the
same purpose. The new market is
subject to the regulations Of the de-
partment Of health, and In order that
there may be no deception 1t will sell
nothing except horse meat. Veterinar-
fans of the department of health So
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

meat. So clean an animal, so free
from tuberculosis and many other seri-
Gus LESSONS common to our fiesh-pro-
ducing animals, and the continually
soaring high prices Of animal foods
make it extremely desirable that OPP
pOrtunities be afforded to obtain cheap
er meats. The long prejudice held by
so many people against horse meat i
trust will soon be eliminated"
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

shape of the eyebrows. True, the
brows have much to tell in the way OF
character. so it behOOves milady tc
take note and correct any defects. II
Is said that the brow that marks the
forehead in straight line. starting
just above the nose and terminating
in slight curve at the temples, de-
notes strength of character and keen
intellect, while the brow that curves
noticeably in its entire length Is, on the
contrary, sign of lack Of character
and undevelOped mental power. The
low. brOadened brow which Is not toe
curved and not too straight IL said te
denote that the pOssessOr Is well bal
anced mentally and of sound charqc
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

This gown was worn by Nine.
Paquin at her opening in Paris, and
II gave the final seal Of approval to
the new silhouette. 1t is Of dark blue
taffeta embroidered in Natter blue.
The sleeves are belI-shaped, the hips
are distended by drapery, and there is
q narrow belt that ties in the back.
vet to stockinet, but the silk sweater
was second and third class wherever
high fashion was foregathered.
The number Of one-piece frocks in
wOrsted jersey is astonishing. The
French designers, aided by the Amer
leans, have produced a wide range of
these garments, and they are accept
ed for the street as well as for the
country and also appear at afternoon
teas.
When a designer like Gabrielle
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

No, Dorothy. IL isn't because many
men do not know how to sew that they
do not mend their ways.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-05-18

L Is rather unpleasant TO see that the
world is being invited to face the cold,
raw fact of gradually increasing
scarcity of the prime necessaries OF
life Agricultural figures just pub
lished II Rome by the international
Institute Of Agriculture show that the
The Monticellonian., 1917-05-24
DEVELOPMENT OF HEIFER INTO NILCH COW

The producing cow is produced by no haphazard methods, asserts 0. E. Reed. professor of dairy husbandry in the Kansas State Agricultural col lege. She Is the product of judicious breeding. feeding, and care.
 The best time to start feeding the heifer to produce Il good milk COW is when 1t is young The calf should receive its mQther's milk during the first month of it's life. Beginning It the end of three weeks, skim milk should gradually he substituted for the whole milk.
 Too many farmers do not realize the feeding value of skim milk They think that because the fat has been removed, much larger quantity of milk should be fed As q result, the calves are often overfed Shelled corn has been found q good grain supple ment to replace the fat content of the skim milk The calf should be fed skim milk until at least six months of age and as much Iunger as the milk is available.
The Monticellonian., 1917-05-24
COMFORTABLE PEN FOR PIGS
Dry Bedding Means Much to Young Animals-Prepare for Ample
 Grazing by Planting Rape.
Clemson College Bulletin, .,

comfortable house with dry bed ding means much 10 the spring pigs. In fact. all other conditions may be perfect and yet if this point is neg lected failure may resul.
 Get the pigs on Il milk or milk and shorts ration by the third week of their existence. if possible. This may be done by building a small pen or creep near their bedding place. and putting a small amount of milk in n shallow vessel (something that can't be overturned). They will soon learn to eat. Increase the feed as they ad- vance in age, but don't feed more than they will clean up. Keep the vessel clean by occasional scalding and sun ming.
 The first four months of pigs life determines largely his after sue cess. Never let him lose his pig fat during this time Prepare now for ample grazing, by sowing rape or rape and grain mixed. This can be grazed by the pigs within six to eight weeks after sewn. Allow them to run on any green crops, especially clover or veteh. as soon as they will graze, usually by the time they are four to five weeks old
 Keep q succession of field grazing crops maturing throughout the sum- mer and fall to supplement their daily ration of grain and to enable them 10 produce at d profit Hogs fed on grain alone without grazing crops, will give ilttle or no profit.
The Monticellonian., 1917-05-24
CROP FOR COTTON BELT
Velvet Bean Is Most Vigorous Of
 All Annual legumes.
As Green-Manure Plant It Is Unex- celled and Mature Pods Afford Ex- celent Pasturage - Notably
 Free From Disease.

(Prepared by the United States Depart
 ment of Agricultural
 Varieties of the velvet bean have been developed by specialists in the United States. department of agrcul- ture which greatly extend the area in Which the use of this legume can be recommended. The original velvet bean. which has been known in Flor ida for approximately 40 years, rare ly natures farther north than the northern boundary of that state. Sev- eral of the new varieties, however, can be grown over a large portion of the cotton belt.
 In those regions to which it is adapt ed, the velvet bean is regarded as the most vigorous of all annual legumes As green-manure crop, it is une,- eeIled and the mature pods afford pas turage which has no equal among le- gumes. The ground pods and seeds can be made into feeds which are now highly esteemed. An additional ad- vantage is that the plant is notably free from disease and insect enemies. anu tilAiTFiA iiilithAif tV iAA' NAtt '''''' affects cowpeas. A new circular of the United States department of agricul- ture calls the attention of farmers in the cotton belt to these facts.
 The most common aethod of utiliZ- ing the crop is to pasture ii after if has fully matureds Good yelvet-bean pasfurage with corn or some similar feed will finish animals very cheaply. There is also q large and growing mar- ket for velvet-bean meal, prepared hF grinding the entire pods and seeds. The yield per acre of these ranges from 20 to 25 bushels. being greatest when vines are well supported above ground. When good prices can be obs tained, it is often profitable ta harvest the beans and to pasture the remain der of the crop. As q feed, expert ments have shown that velvet beans in the pod produce milk much more cheuply than cottonseed meal. As T feed for hogs velvet beans result in good gains. but when fed alone they appear to result in disugreeaHe taste in the fat This difficulty. however can be readily overeanie by combin- lBs them with some other feed
 Tue work of agricultural scientists with thc velvet bean has resulted in T number of striking instances of the effect of this crop in reuoyating soil. At the AlaAawa experiment station '-zaH4Hie. after velvet haaas had beea HlaHed under I crop of sorghum hay was ahfaiuc. nearly double that If a crop grown after follow. Again he blowing mder of velvet heans re-
 uittd in etcld af eaf~ rmtr times as hfzh as aEcrnE that- -fallnEeea- crab ar ss and udllet. la Arkan~a. oats. after veirHt Hrauz HlHued under yield ea 53 hasHeis of aaio a. aeaiBSt 36 HHshels aIfaF n4t ssahhle Other es- inmates show th4t an ordinary crop af V tvat bean. adds aAMl 70 pounds 6f nitrogen per acre To the soil. or .lhaui us Haell as is ea8taiHed in l loo bounds of esttoHseed meal. Even if she beans are pnstnfe1 most of this nitrogen is returned
 In the past 70 years the United States department ef agriculture has introduced ahaut twenty Be@ varieties of the velvet beun into America and
The Monticellonian., 1917-05-24

''tttttAt- tii' S'iiN' and whites separately and adding q tablespoonful of cold water for each egg. seuson with a teaspoonful of salt q fourth of teaSpoonful of pepper and three-fourths of cupful of tuna fish minced fine. Fold the fish into the whites and proceed as in the mak- ing of a plain omelet.
 Chicken and Mushroom Pie.-Butter q baking dish and put layer Of chick en meat in the bottom, cover with mushrooms which should be diced as well as the chicken, then add d few potato balls, season and add layer of hard cooked eggs chopped, sprinkle with minced parsley and cover with u white sauce. Then after all the in- gredients are used in layers, cover with small rich biscuit and bake. Use four cupfuls of diced chicken, one pint of mushrooms. one and half pints of potatoes, six eggs one and Il half tahlespoonfuls of minced parsley a quart of thin white sauce, bake about 90 minutes This will serve eight peo- pie.
 Club salad.-Allow two or three leaves of lettuce for each salad. one and onc-half cupfuls of shredded chicken tcoff cookeB. twelve slices Of bacon cooked and diced. three to, maloes. mayannaise and toast points with parsley fer the sarnishiHe. ar- range the lettuce. on each a slice or tw4 of tomafe. then the fried bacon on these and 2 spoonful of mayonmise and eu tap the chicken, more Iuuyua- naIse and spris of parsley Gamsh with siN tiny toast points Tor each salad placing them 1aeke-fashinn nn the plates.
 Pimento cheese.-Draln small eifn of pimeutos from the oil. chop fine, add tablespoonful of onion juice and a tablespoonful of minced pickles and 4 half-Faund If grated cheese Mix well add salt and red pepper and serve With crackers or as a sandwich filling