davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
STOCKING HABIT IS STUPID
SO Declares Writer in German Paper,
Discussing Need of Economizina
in Nations Supplies.

In the large towns going barefooted
Is a thing which has to fight against
social prejudices, and even in war
time it is difficult to establish the hab-
it, although it would be wise to save
up stockings and shoes for the had
weather, when we shall need them
says a writer in the Frankfurter Zeit-
ung. People wait for one another TO
begtn-wait until the warm summer
has passed. 1t is really stupid and
we ought not to be stupid in matters
which are connected with our immense
struggle for existence. But in this
matter, as in others, the young are
quicker to find the right course than
h cautious and tlmorous old ones,
In the streets of our great cities there
is now an increase in the number of
stocEingless wCGrers of sandals
mostly of the female sex. This method
OF economizing III supplies is more
appropriate to q large town than the
more radical method of going bare
footed. And it really does not look
bad. Perhaps the sandalmakers could
take more account of feminine couuet-
tishness and produce really pretty,
"dressy" samples. But even as the
sandals are they do quite well. Three
young maidens-as a matter of fact,
they are already young Iadies-have
just clattered by in stockingless san
dals. Two Old gentlemen stand at the
corner of the street and watch the
merry young ones. OF course, they are
ill-humOred old people who are grum-
bling at this modern scandal" Not
a bit of it. They nod to one another
and it Is easy to read their satisfac-
ton in their movements. The three
maidens, moreover, were not beauties;
they were just young and hPld and
had risked it,
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Uses Zone Time at Sea,

The French navy having recently
adopted the use of standard or zone
time at sea, the photographic service
of the French ministry of marine has
just issued a, large chart of the world,
on the Mercator projection, showing
the limits of the standard hour zones
on both land and sea, together with
other pertinent information, says the
Scientific American. The land areas
in which standard time is used are in
dicated by red tinting for the even
numbered n beginning with zone
0, In which Greenwich time is used),
and blue for the odd-numbered zones.
Violet tinting is used in the case of
countries such as British India, Nj
gerla, British East Africa and Vene-
zuela, In which the legal time is in
termediate between that of two stand
ard meridians. Countries not using
zone time are tinted yellow, and in
case they uses a uniform official time
the difference between such time and
that of Greenwich is indicated, also
the location of the observatory, if any,
from which the time Is taken.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
IN SILK ATTIRE MY LADY GOES.

number of yards of goods to be used
for daytime frocks, so of course these
war time economics will become fash
ionable. Because simplicity makes for,
rather than against, artistic success
In design, the new frocks of silk and
satin are marvels of good taste.
Only satin and needlework furnished
the means for producing the lovely
afternoon gown shown in the illustra-
ton. But this restriction merely serves
to show the fe~sourcefulness of it's Gre
ator; he has made them entirely suffi,
cient. The gown has a short, plain
bodice, shocked into epaulette Shout
ders. The plain skirt is shocked to
adjust 1t to the figures at the waist
line and the last row of shocking
forms a narrow rufle, lined with white
satin. This provides the most grace
full way for uniting bodice and skirt
in one.
But the cleverest bit of strategy EN-,
ployed by the artist whose means were
so restricted, appears in the pockets ut
each side. They are managed by slit
ting the satin and gathering the full
ness of the skirt into shocking. The
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

fox. The muff is small and soft, drap-
ed at the center and trimmed with fox
bands.
An unusual garment appears in
the full cape of velvet with big collar
of skunk fur. This collar Is a short
square cape across the back extended
into revers at the front and may he
turned up about the neck, mufier
fashion. The velvet cape is lined with
crepe de chine or crepe g~eorgette,
which forms a soft puff about its
edges.
The fox skin scarf shown ut the
right is n great ~favorite and Is shown
In many varieties of this lovely, soft
fur. 1t is simply the pelt with tail
legs and head, and Is lined with satin
or crepe-white and red fox have had
a wonderful vogue. The cross and sill
ver-tipped fox skins are among the
most expensive Of furs. There are
many neckpieces and muffs made Of
dyed fox and no fur is more luxurious
looking or becoming.
There Is a certain knack in wearing
the new scarfs and caper They do
not adjust themselves certainly to the
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
The Sleeveless Coatee.

ell, which was designed by Premet, was
velours de laine in a warm shade of
"shrapnel-gray." The coatee was
rather short and of sac" outline, with
large gun-metal buttons down the
front, and trimmings of civet-cat fur.
The fact that there were no sleeves
permitted the smart blouse under
meath to be seen to advantage.
A special point connected with this
little garment was its lining, which
was made of printed silk which
showed dark blue and black designs
on an orange ground.
Nowadays Innings are of the utmost
Importance, and since the happenings
Of this most terrible war have made
silken goods cheaper than serge or
cloth, at least In France, brocades and
printed silks are being freely used for
Innings, even In the case of simple
tailored suits.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
UNIFORM MAKES MANY MEN
Apparently Dull and impossible Re-
erults Quickly Catch on When
They Don Khaki Clothes.

want to see something funnyF'
asked a lieutenant of a correspondent.
The correspondent did.
well, come over here and watch
that beauty drill"
The lieutenant led the correspond
ent over in front of one of the compa-
MES.
Watch that man." he said.
The man was a red-faced, vacant
looking specimen in civilian clothes,
who seemed not gifted with mere or
binary intelligence. He could not
stand up straight, could not manage
his hands and feet. could not learn
right face, right about face or left
face. Every time the sergeant gave a
command the beauty gave him a silly
grin and considered that he had done
his duty. So the sergeant took him to
one side.
"Well, now, we will have a lesson by
ourselves. Now watch me-"
The sergeant was very patient. For
half an hour he tried to drum Il little
intelligence into his pupils head, but
at the end of that time the man was
even more confused than before.
The next day the same sergeant said
TO the correspondent:
want to see something grand?"
The correspondent did. The SER
geant pointed to the same man.
Just look at him." he said proudly.
The private was standing straight,
his eyes were bright, his feet were ODE
dent and he looked like a a
Wonderful" gasped the CORE
spondent. What did it?"
ITS the uniform, bless it," said the
sergeant. ut makes men out of the
most impossible"
1--WE are all little boys still, aren't
WEI" unused the correspondent. Il
think even l could be a soldier in a
uniform. And think of owning a
sword :"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
FEEL FABRIC SHORTAGE
Many Of the Sport Variety Made Of
Chenille and Wool Materials
That Simulate Felt.

As the season advances the diff
Guilty In procuring felt and velour
shapes becomes more apparent, due to
the demands of the army, and many
sports hats r being made Of wool
fabrics that simulate felt, and also of
chenille,
Sometimes the chenille is sewed to-
gether in close rows, and again a knit
ted or crocheted effect Is developed.
Fortunately Dame Fashion approves
the small and medium-sized hat rather
than the big, spreading picture affair.
This ruling accords well with the fab
ric shortage, which is felt fully as
much in the millinery field as in the
larger n covering coats, suits, etc.
Fashion In children's hats vary but
slightly from last year, and even at
the risk of annoying the young miss,
who undoubtedly will feel that she is
clearly entitled to q new hat, last sea-
sons model may be carefully retrim-
med without anyone outside the fam
lily being the wiser! Poke and mush-
room shapes are the preferred ones
for juveniles.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Siam Attaches Enemy Firms.

The Siamese government has issued
a notification ordering all German and
Austrian business firms to be attached
and wound up. Among the business
houses to be l%iquidated are three Of
the leading drug stores in Bangkok,
two hotels, two dental offices, one pho
tographic studio, one printing office,
one rice milling firm, three general i'm
port houses, one rice mill engineering
office and one undertaker's establish
ment.
The Importance of Germany's trade
interest in Siam, notes q correspond
ent, may be judged from the fact that
the imports from that country into
Siam through the port of Bangkok
amounted to $2,O97, 266 in the fiscal
year ended March 81, 1913, and to ST.
45S,SS9 in 1914, while exports of ma
tive products from Siam to Germany
were valued at S2,110,0S5 and $2,747,-
266 during the respective periods.
A large share of the shipping was
also under German control, so that out
of the total number of 914 ships of all
n~atiOnalities that entered the port of
Bangkok during 1914 those of German
registery numbered 261 vessels. AT
the time of Slams declaration of war
on July 90, 1917, the German vessels
in the Bangkok harbor consisted of
nine steamships, of 11,766 tons; five
steam lighters, of 1877 tons; two
tugs, of % tons sever barges and two
large coal hulkS.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Half Length Garments Are Suit
able For All Occasions.
Sleeveless coatee Intended to BE
Worn Under Loose Coat or
Heavy Fur Mantle.

Nothing could be more charming
than the half-length wrap coats of the
present season. They are admirable
from every point of view, for not only
are they original In design, but they
are also practical and suitable for all
occasions, says Italia de >Villiers, a
Paris correspondent.
The sketch shows a warm sleeve
less coatee which Is intended to be
worn under a loose motor wrap or
under a heavy fur mantle. This lit
tie coatee is exceedingly decorative
and it would look delightfully."- coy
and festive at q restaurant tea or for
visiting when the outer mantle was
thrown Off. The material of this moo
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
BELTS KNITTED IN SWEATERS
Models of This Kind More Graceful
on Slender, Youthful Figures
Than on the Large Woman.

Many Of the new sweaters have the
belt knitted in and these models are
very graceful on slender, youthful fig
1res but the large woman looks bet
ter In a sweater with separate belt,
outtoned or tied like q sash. The lat
ter soft of belt may be adjusted to
suit the lines of the figure and the
knitted coat does not cling as closely
as n with the waistline drawn IN
by a purled band.
When the belt is knitted, the slip-on
model is favored and for autumn
these slip-on sweaters have sleeves
and very often deep sailor collars.
A very good looking model of heavy
white wool is purle din large ribs the
whole length of the sweater. The
sleeve, set In separately, is purled al
so, and the wide rib makes the sweat
er warm and substantial looking for
autumn wear. Wide and narrow
stripes in purple border the sleeve, the
lower edge Of the collar and the waist
band, which is set into the sweater
with smaller needles.
Brown sweaters are considered
smart this season and a popular model
Is Of brown English mohair wool
which has a rough surface like an
CORA. The belt and trimmings are of
brown Scotch wool with stripes in
lighter brown.
Very high colors are favored in silk
sweaters and the best models have a
corrugated stitch forming a heavy rib.
Sashes are wider than ever and are
trimmed with deep fringe; and sweat
er pockets are very large with a point
at the lower edge, a covered button
finishing the tip of the point.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

picture published from n fraternity
group of which he was n member. The
young man himself had my~steriously
disappeared. The car which wrecked
the Mel limousine had been returned
TO the garage from which it was rent
ed. The chief horror, as dwelt upon
by the paper lay in the fact that the
victim had been the great Madam Mel.
II wonder" thought Dosia, "why that
honest-eyed Donald Stewart could not
prove himself guiItless?" And then,
with a binding electric flash, the tea
room lights went out. There they sat,
those softly chattering people, with
the food before them, in darkness, for
1t was dark, too, outside. DOsia dis
cerned a man cropping his way to her
table.
"Oh" she cried, starting up as a
thunderclap shook the building.
"Do not be afraid" the man said
gently, 1--WE are safe here and the
storm is really passing over" And at
the sound of the confident voice Dosia
sank back strangely treasured. Glim-
merlng along the way came the wal
tress, bearing a shaded candle. This
she placed between them upon the
widespread table, and Dosia glancing
over its rose-colored top, looked
straight into the hypnotic eyes of the
paper.
"You!" she gasped.
The man nodded toward the paper.
$50" he said, you've seen it,"
"Yes," said DOsia. She leaned ca
gerly forward. "Oh, why" she said,
didn't you give yourself up and prove
chem wrOngY"
The man stared at her and then
smiled. "How do you know,p he asked.
shat | was not to blame?"
"Neyer mind" Dosia answered de-
cldedly, II do know. Now tell me all
about It,"
ForNa long time they sat looking at
each other across the light. "Tm a
student" he said. sin my last year at
medical college. It's been a desperate
fight TO get that far in my profession,
but-I'ye made it-and something to
start practice on besides. I've got to
make good to pay back the confidence
and Kindness of friends.
Last nlght / hired that car to go on
a trial case. ! was going on regulation
speed. when, nolselsssly. without light
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

or signal, that limousine rounded n
orner I-crashed into it-unharmed.
The chauffeur had been drinking ;
when l stopped for explanation, he
gave me nothing but curses. l saw a
shattered window but believed the
limousine to be u%noccupied, and rode
on. Returning the rented car, 1 went
out, as is my weekly custom, to my
folks In the country. When l saw the
papers this morning l came back.
That's all; but 1t will cost me every
cent 1 have saved, or worse. There
is no n to prove the truth Of my
story.
But" cried Dosla eagerly, "why
don't you explain to Mrs. Mel her
self?"
The man laughed shortly. "Do you
think they'd let me see her this morn
ing?' he said. 1.-THE privilege of 'ex-
planning will be allowed me only With
the Judge"
Quickly Dosla reached for her coat,
wait here" she begged breathlessly,
until l call you up on the phone" and
she was gone. One moment she watt
ed to buy some fresh roses, then the
taxi that she signaled went rushing
on its errand. A smilingly apologize
Dosia entered our home that evening.
Il have been gone a long time" she
said, but you see l had to talk with
an old lady at the hospital
1t was not until Madame Mel had
withdrawn her charges and indicated
Donald Stewart from blame that we
were permitted to meet him.
Don't you see it?" asked Dosia-
that true look in his eygj?" And we
confess We do-when those same eyes
rest upon Dosia.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
One On the Judue.

A clever young lawyer was defend.
ing a man accused of housebreaking.
Your Honor, l submit that my client
did not break into the house at all. He
found the parlOr window open, in
serted his right arm, and removed a
few triflng articles. Now, my clients
arm is not himself, and 1 fail to see
how you can punish him for an Of
Tense committed only by one of his
limbs"
THAT argument" said the judge, ais
very well put. Following 1t logically,
L sentence the defendants arm to one
years Imprisonment. He can accom-
pany 1t or not, just as he chooses"
The prisoner calmly unscrewed his
cork arm, and, leaving 1t In the dock,
walked out.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Waists Normal to Lone.

All dresses except those designed
for young girls show either a normal
or a long waist line, says the Drygoods
Economist. The Various lines 70,
college and high school girls have
rather short waists or by means
OF wide girdles give a general effect
OF snort waists. The use Of wildly
coiored plaid silks for trimming these
misses serge dresses seems TO be
growing In favor. Colors follow close
iy those shown In coats and suits.
with a leaning, perhaps. Of navy and
other shades of blue, which are mot
seen except In a few suits.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
WRAP COATS NEW
COLD BATH AS BEAUTY AID
Woman Who Is Accustomed to Invig.
Grating Shower Finds II Precau.
tlon Against Wintry Blasts.

The woman who is accustomed to a.
cold shower will find it a great precau-I
ton against the cold of winter. III
should be taken the first thing in the
morning in a well-warmed bathroom.
Some enjoy the tepid shower, which
Is afterward allowed to run cold.
The cold plunge is more taxing toI
the delicate woman, and If a shower
is impossible the cold sponge bath Isl
its best substitute, says a beauty ex-
pert. All of these cold baths should
be followed by a brisk rubbing with
several coarse towels, so as to in.
sure the healthy glow which imparts a
glorious tinge to the surface of the
body.
If your flesh is 1abby, after washing
the face with warm water and soap,
dash the skin with cold water to which
has been added a t%easpoonful of ben
zoin. A cold compress around the neck
at night will harden the flesh and re-
move the flabby appearance.
There are many women who, when
cold weather approaches, put on ar
mor-like clothing and shut themselves
In almost alright houses. This is
wrong, of course, both for beauty and
health. Some skins are sensitive to
cold ard direct contact with wintry
winds is hard on them; but though
your cuticle may be delicate, 1t need
not prevent you from going out. A
coat of good skin food, well rubbed in
and busted owe with powder, should
be applied before leaving the house.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

satin lined ruffie that defines them. is
set on at the top. The collar is of soft,
white satin ornamented with needle
work on points at the front, and cuffs
made in the same way are set on the
upper side of the sleeves.
All quarters Of the globe appear to
have been ransacked to provide furs
for the comfort and adornment Of
IN If there is any ~fur-bearing
animal from G~reenIand's icy mountains
to midas coral strand that Is not in
danger of loosing his hide to the hunt
er or trapper we would like to make
his acquaintance, and so would the
furriers, for he must belong to an
unknown species. Nine. Bernhard
wears a coat of tiger skin from tropi-
cal jungles and Baby Bunting Is wrap
ped In rabbit skins-that look like
something else-from the Dakotas
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Dosia's
Adventure
-
By Agnes c. Brogan
q. 80;
Icopyright. 1917. western Newspaper Union

copyright. 1917. Western Newspaper Unlon.)
Something interesting Is sure to hap
pen to Dosia if she merely starts for Il
shopping trip downtown it will end in
some unexpected manner.
"Ill be back in time for luncheon
she told mother one morning, and
mother smiled.
ave know the usual outcome of
your good intentions, Dosia," she told
her, "and will not expect you until we
see you" And just as Dosia had fin
ished her shopping and was starting
homewnrd, down anne a heavy shower.
Immediately she thought of the tea
COON nearby, rs n refuge; she would
lunch here while the storm lasted.
She was enjoying herself immensely
listening TO the Soft-t0ned music and
reading the morning paper, when the
pictured face of n man beneath n glar-
Ing headline held her attention. 1t was
not that the face was handsome. or n
familiar, but just that the eyes
seemed to look into hers in a most
compelling hypnotic way. When she
laid the paper aside, there still We're
che eyes seeming to stare at her
through the folds.
Some instinct told Dosia that the
man of the picture was innocent of the
crime of which he had been accused.
She was u"naccountably sure of this,
but why-had he run away? The night
before a limousine belonging to the
noted and wealthy Celestial Mel had
been wrecked by an automobile round
ing recklessly a dark corner. Mrs.
Mel, an occupant of her car at the
time, was now in an adjacent hospital
succumbing to the removal of broken
glass from her hip, as a result of the
accident. In the meantime detectives
were engaged in hunting down her as
sailant.
The chauffeur's presence of mind in
noting the mans auto number had led
70 the discovery of his name, and the
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

These war time days being deter
mined TO reduce the high cost of liv-
Ing, and also to forego wool that is
needed for the armies of the world,
my lady has taken to silk attire. This
is no hardship at all,-women have al
ways loved silk. Besides satins in
several supple weaves and lovely
crcpes have proved themselves depend
able for wear as well as beautiful, in
the first regard Mt least the equal of
many wooden fabrics.
And now enters Paris proclaiming
narrow skirts and restrictions in the
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
FASHIONS FANCIES.

New stitches Of embroidery are ar
ranged to initiate carpet weaving.
Two belts, rather narrow, are sup
planting the broad single belt, which
has been popular for so long on me
piece frocks,
The tailored suits, dresses and coats
show combinations Of gabardine, serge
and satin trimmed with embroidery.
Velvet hats have satin facIngs. And
soft, pretty velours have velvet bands.
Burnt coque feathers edge chick cha
peaux. If mademoiselle does not cnre
for velvet or satin, there Is hatter's
plush by way Of change.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17

perhaps, and every cline between con-
tributes skins. Even so the wonder
remains as to where the immense
supply comes from-only the furrier
really knows-and he is not going to
tell.
Three neckpieces and a muff appear
In the group of fashionable furs pic
tured above. At the left there is a
set of Hudson seal and fox-the vogue
Of combining two furs persists-wlth
the cape of seal and collars of fox.
The cape Is heightened a little toward
the front and finished with bands Of
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Elastic Wristbands.

An adjustable w%aistband Is now the
correct thing to use In the making of
the dress or blouse. So 1t has come
about that On either side of the waist.
band of the ready-made frock triple
pieces of elastic are inserted. each
piece about half an inch wide. When
the dress Is worn the elastic "gIves"
sufficiently to ut the waist comfort.
ably. This obviates the necessity for
alteration and makes the garment feel
better
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
Butterfly Carnival.

A strange sight was seen recently in
County RoscOmmon, and indeed,
throughout central Ireland, where
myriads of rar and beautiful butter
flies were disporting themselves. The
lovely peacock butterfly was the most
numerous, and clusters of this species
might be seen on a single plant. It
was q record occasion for collectors.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-11-17
War Wrecks Nerves.

So terrific is the strain Of the pres
ent warfare upon the men under fire,
writes a correspondent, that nervous
and mental disabilities are responsible
for one-seventh of all the discharges,
while wounds are responsible for one
third of all discharges-or about half
as many men disabled through nerve
wreckage as by shrapnel.