davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
FLARE ABSENT IN
FALL SILHOUETTE

| ing fur on costumery as though il
were as plentiful as grass.
The few coat suits that will be
shown, so the cables say, will be halt
fur and half cloth. Entire short coats
Of fur. bound around the hips in the
new way will be offered with knife.
plated or boX-plaited skirts of cloth
or velvet. -s;-
One-piece gowns will have old-fash-
icned dolmans Of fur fitted across the
front by broad straps that wrap
around the waist.
Capes of fur lined with velvet or
satin will have deep waistcoats In
front that hold them securely to the
figure, and the skirt beneath will be
plain or plated.
1t is definitely said that the extern
sion at the sides of skirts which goes
under the name of umbrella drapery
will be abolished. What is known as
the melon skirt, or jupe tonneau, will
be dismissed as worthless.
Will Broeades Be Worn?
A fashion reporter who was at the
remarkably successful fabric exposi-
ton recently held in Lyons, France,
gives bit of most interesting news
concerning the introduction of bro
cade. 1t is this: That the most ex-
quisite brocade with an unusual de-
sign has already been made at Lyons
for Nine. Poincaire, the wife Of the
president of the French republic, to be
worn when peace is declared.
This brocade is closely guarded and
it's design is not allowed to be copied.
Whatever celebration France expects
to have when peace is declared will
be the circumstance that will unlock
the case where this brocade is kept.
Nine. Poincaire will receive it as a
gift from Lyons, and some great dress
maker will prepare it.
This piece of cloth is not the only
Of Lyons believe to be possibly near.
Literally, a half mile or so of gold
and silver brOcade has been woven
and is now held in reserve for the
celebration of peace. This weaving
represents the very highest pinnacle
Of the craftsmanship of the master
weavers of Lyons.
It is said In exclusive circles that the
purchase of all Of this brocade has
been arranged for by dressmakers and
individuals Of power and prestige In
Paris.
Another new silk which was shown
at Lyons and which is said to be very
beautiful is called La Solicit de la Vic
toire It is so eminently French for
it's workers to reflect their hopes, their
sacrifices and their faith in terms Of
fabrics and women's clothes!
Fashions That Follow the Army.
1t is no longer considered in good
taste to wear anything that resembles
the American flag. That unfortunate
episo6 our national costumery has
pas y. -
in good taste to wear a dark
blue coat and line it with red; blue
and white striped awning skirt may
carry red sweater above it; but the
hawking about of the national colors
in the very moment when they are to
be baptized by the blood of thousands
who are fighting for an ideal, and by
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
PRACTICE OF SWIMMING MILK
To Secure Best Results 1t Is Best to
Skim and Milk and Churn Cream,
Says Clemson.

Experience has shown that in gen.
eral practice the churning Of whole
milk results in butter Of poorer fat
in the buttermilk than If cream is
churned, says Clemson Agricultural
college Of South Carolina. 1t is there
fore best to skim the milk and churn
the cream. The best way to skim the
milk is by means Of separator. A
farmer who has only two or three
cows, but no separator, may put the
milk into deep, narrow cans tshotgun
cans) and set them in cold water, and
when the cream rises it can be re-
moved with shallow spoon. Where
this system is used it usually takes
about II to 10 hours for all the cream
to rise. Care should be taken to keep
the milk cold, in order to make the
cream rise rapidly. The old method
Of setting the milk in shallow pans
should not be used, as the cream does
not rise SO completely as when set In
deep cans in cold water; furthermore.
the quality of the cream Is not so good
and there are more vessels to wash
and care for.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

This new type Of sport coat is Of
of black and white plaid jersey. The
buttons are black, so is the sleeve lin
ing.
their workrooms a detective force that
has much in common with the French
police system.
Women who wanted to sketch gowns
that were to be shown to the public
in a few days have been caught and
locked up in q dark room in one of
the houses as though they were COM
mon criminals caught in the act
All the processes of the French law,
and they are severe and terrorizing
to the stranger, are called into being
to punish an offender who tries to get
a design Of gown from a French
house without permission.
There are leaks, however, from the
great French wOrkrooms, as well as
from our departments in Washington.
Somehow, somebody knows the truth.
Rumors From Paris.
The things that we have been able
to find out are interesting. They may
prove true.
The new silhouette, 1t is said, will
be slim and tight just below the waist
line, around the hips, and there will be
no flare from shoulder to instep.
Coats are cut to the hipline and are
either bound in with fur or embroid-
cred cloth. There is no attempt to
curve garments In at the waistline.
fabrics against the figure in order to
outline the anatomy beneath. The
cloth will hang in straight line from
the shoulder to the girdle at the hips,
thereby giving a well-known Oriental
silhouette that has come and gone
through the fashions in recurring
cycles.
Skirts will be exceedingly narrow
for walking, and for the evening they
will be long and in flowing lines that
do not flare, but cling to the figure in
the fashion Of the Orient.
House gowns and evening gowns
will touch the floor and cover the toes
in front, swirling out into greater
length at the back.
The high collar, it is said, will re-
place the low one. The decOlletage
that is expected is the straight, Italian
line of the fifteenth century, used in
mems costumery as well as women's.
In opposition to this is the high,
straight collar that does not fit under
the chin. thereby causing an ugly roll
Of flesh, but flares upward and out
ward. 1t is the collar that Sarah
Bernhardt made famous more than a
quarter of century ago.
These collars are shown on shirt
waists and one the bodices of formal
and informal frocks. The immense
handkerchief collar of the Revolution
will be put on coats, so rumor says,
and the deep, delta decolletage adopt
ed In the American Revolution will be
used on dinner and restaurant gowns.
Plentiful Use Of Fur.
No cable from Paris excludes the
word fur. If one can judge by these
forerunners of what Is to happen, such
as rumors, personal letters and cables,
the animal world will be sacrificed to
clOthe women. No one can tell where
all the skins come from, but it is said
that in Paris every designer is lavish
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
DESTROYING DOORS AND HUGS
Fresh Air and Sunshine Is Death to
Birthplace Utensils Where Sun
Will Strike Them.

Fresh air and sunshine being death
both to odors and to "bugs," there is
close relationship between clean
milk and summing of milk utensils.
Do not stopper the cans when setting
them out to sun. Let the air work
in and out. Choose a place to set
them where the sun shines upon them
most directly. Turn them bottom
side up to keep dust out of them more
effectively possibly rain. Nature
will then do her share toward freeing
the milk can from faint. She will ma
terially lessen the number Of bacteria
hiding within.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

came TO tell QSr-DuC l suppose
she doesn't care to see anyone-the
rector is away on holiday. I'll wire
him, of course"
Boroday led the way into the library
where the rector had So recently re-
ceived his check. He turned and eyed
Ward.
"Why bring the rector back?" he
asked. 1T is a little late for-the
comforts Of religion"
"Mr. Kingston gave lavishly to the
church. Whatever the church can
do
II rather think" said Boroday po-
litely, shat he gave, not to the church,
but to the DOOR,"
"Inasmuch as ye give unto one Of
the least Of these" Ward replied,
and returned Boroday's gaze.
>Elinor had pulled herself together.
By the one standard that had ruled
her life she acted now-her fathers
wishes.
Ward, brought face to face with her,
found her unapproachable, calm, al
most cold. Found her very lovely, too,
and let his ardent young eyes rest on
her oftener than was wise. Her sit
uation appealed to him. She seemed
to be quite alone, save for the Russian
with the beard.
IF I can do anything" he said,
''wire to your relatives anything Of
that sort"
II have no relatives. My mother
died when I was born. II have a
curious feeling that everything in the
world has stopped-as though I'd
reached the end Of things"
1t seemed to Mr.. Ward that he
should offer some Of the comfort Of his
faith to this shrinking, wide-eyed girl
before him. But what? Rumors had
come to him, of course.
death Is only a tragedy when we
think of 1t as an end and not as be-
ginning" he said. 1T is always sad.
l hope you understand that I know
how terrible all this is for you. But
to have lived ones life, active and
we'll and useful to the end, and then
to depart, in the fullness of days, for
new activities somewhere else"
Elinor shivered in the warm sum
shine.
"You see," she said drearily, 81 do
not believe those things. should like
to just now" Then, almost defiantly:
4,11 will Iyn
the things he did that were helpful.
But perhaps we would not agree on
that, either"
The Russian was walking up and
down the hall, impassive, watchful.
Under his stoical Indifference, he was
suffering tortures. A bullet from the
automatic had gone through his left
arm, grazing the bone. Luckily, the
bullet was not In the wound. Henri
cite had bathed and cleansed 1t, but
he was in agony. He was suffering
pain, bereavement. defeat. His face
expressed only decorous and conven-
tional regret.
Now and then he glanced in at the
library door, but generally he watched
the road up the hill. AS he had
watched the Church ascending, SO now
at any time might come Law. He
would be prepared.
He had grown beard since the st.
Louis matter. That would help. And
he had waited to return and claim old
. Hilary's body, until the Record extra
had announced his killing. Walking
up and down the wide hall, his keen
mind was going back, detail by detail,
over the day. Talbot and Lethbridge
in the car had kept on. They had
had changes Of clothing in the ma
chine. BY now they should be at the
country club, and halfway around the
links. The car, with its changed IL
cense plates, would be standing in the
eminently respectable country club
garage.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

ing the case, the average sample Of
Guernsey skim milk will contain about
1O.5 per cent solids and the average
sample of Holstein skim milk will con-
tain a little over 9 per cent solids.
The solid matter in a sample of skim
milk from either of these breeds will
be divided as follows: Sugar, so per
cent; proteins, 35 per cent; ash, 1875
per cent, and fat, 1.25 per cent.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Basis Of Bay Rum.

The basis Of bay rum is Jamaica
or Saint Croix rum, made from the
skimmings Of the sugar boilers, the
scrapings of sugar barrels and the
washings from sugar pots. For the
best grade Of bay rum the rum must
be free from foreign odors and almost
colOrleSS.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
MILK BREEDS ARE COMPARED
Average Percentage Of Fat In Guern-
sey Milk ls SIG and That Of
HoIstein Is 3.42.

The average per cent of solids in
Guernsey milk is All and in Holstein
milk l1.85. The average percentage
Of fat in Guernsey milk is 516 and in
Holstein milk 3.42. The percentage
Of solids taken from the milk when
separated approximates four-fifths Of
the amount of fat removed. This be-
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

throat and is distinctly more military
in effect than a low collar and "
shaped neck opening.
Smart new collars of white organdie
have two turnovers attached to tall,
buttoned stock, and below the stock
hangs a pleated cascade jabot. Turn
overs and jabOt are stitched with red
and blue sewing silk, or piped with red
and blue linen.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Homemade Wells.

The achievement of a stenciled en-
broidery veil Is not beyond the powers
of some women. One made of very
dark blue Russian net has a deep bor-
der-on the upper edge-of stencil
work carried out in smoke-gray floss
silk. Worn over black velvet toque,
or one of the popular small hats, a veil
of this kind is exceedingly attractive.
Stencil embroidery consists of fine
runnings of silk in bold design.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Use Of Soy-Bean OIL.

Soy-bean oil has been studied with
other oils In a series Of experiments
carried on by the Office Of home econo-
mics and found to compare favorably
with the more common culinary table
oils with respect to the thoroughness
with which 1t is assimilated.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

Here is pretty redingote in plaid.
1t Is made of fine wolfe in gray, with
crossbars of cerise and white. 1t Is
worn over an accordion plated skirt
of plain gray wolfe. Revers and chemi-
settle OF white voile trimmed with &C.
rise.
the willing sacrifices of women who
are pushing their men forward on the
path of that idealism, is too vulgar to
be permissible.
Copyright, 1917. by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

Synopsis-For years old Hilary
Kingston lived with his daugh-
ter, Elinor, in a beautiful home
on a hill in the suburban village
Of Nottingham. The neighbors
knew nothing about the estab-
lishment, except that the father
was quite wealthy, and the
daughter very good looking and
gentle. In reality Kingston was
head of an anarchist band, COM
posed Of Huff, Boroday, Talbot
and Lethbridge, that robbed the
rich and gave to the poor and
oppressed. One day Old Hilary
was shot dead, and the course
of life changed abruptly for his
daughter.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
A Muslin Blouse.

blouse of blue muslin has dou-
BILE breasted fastening and four big
white buttons. There are revers OF
the blue and deep turnover collar
with muslin ruff1eS.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Tall Collars,

Somehow or other the high, choller
stock collar looks much better with
dashing, upiformlike tailIeur. It makes
It's weenGr tim and neat around the
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Weak and Understood Calves.

Weak and understood calves usual
ly are produced by cows which are not
given rest before calving. The COW
and her calf are seriously handicapped.
wisconsin College.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Lines Will Fall Straight From
Shoulder to Heel in the
New Models.
SKIRTS TO BE VERY NARROW
House and Evening Gowns Will Touch
the FIoor-High Collar to Re-
place the Low One Now
Worn.

New York.-What the next few
weeks holds for us in the way of fash
ions. not more than two dozen people
in the world know. These are the
French designers, who guard their Sc
crets carefully and establish around
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

shown that Hilary Kingston had hailed
him; Huff explained his stopping. Mr..
Kingston was regular patron; he had
meant to tell him that in five minutes
he would come back and pick him up.
Huff was under surveillance for
three days. His conduct was impec-
cable.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Full Value Not Realized.

The full value of a good dairy COW
is often not realized until she is parted
with.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11
Poor Cow Won't Pay.

Nc possible increase in milk price
can make Il poor COW pay profit.
Middletown transcript., 1917-08-11

LESSON TEXT-II Chronicles 34:1-14
GOLDEN TEXT-Remember now thy
Creator In the days Of thy youth.-Eccles
12:1
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
GOVERNMENT AGENT AND
BEFINERS DISCUSS PROBLEM

New York, Oct. 35.--Efforts to
solve the problems resulting from the
world sugar shortage took definite
form today with the beginning of
conferences by the international sugar
committee, headed by George NJ
Rolph. chief of the sugar division of
the federal food administration, and
the American sugar refiners' com
mittee of which James H. Post is
chairman. Mr. Rolph and Mr. Post
issued statements after the meetings
in which they said only preliminary
questions were discussed. The con-
ferences will continue several days.
The national committee will CO.
operate with the international body
after plans have been formulated to
relieve the sugar shortage, it was on
nounced. Besides Mr.. Rolph, the
members of the international commit
tee are Sir Joseph White Todd and
John Ramsay Drake of the British
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
1000 HAWANANS
DRAWN.T0 SERVE
IN NATIONAL ARMY
Chinese, Japanese and FIJI
pinos Included in Contingent
From Territory Drawing IS
Separate From u. S.
nv noss'ns JOURNAL srxeIs, LEASED ~,~s

Honolulu, T. H., oct. 25.-Today y
1000 men in the territory of Hawaii
are being drawn under the selective
draft for service in Uncle Sans new
national army. On July 81, $1,000
military eligibles registered for the
draft and of this number IL is expect
ed about one-fourth will be drawn.
including a number of Japanese and
Chinese and Fiipinos of Hawaiian
birth. This list does not include
1000 men who are members of the
national guard.
Hawaii's draft was unique in tina.
the drawing was made directly in
Honolulu, at the territorial capitol
while in the states it was made in
Washington. The entire operation
was conducted independently of
Washington. by special dispensation.
The drawing was held at $40
o'clock this morning in the senate
chamber of the capitol formerly the
palace of the old Hawaiian kings.
Governor Pinkham drew the first
number-blindfolde and after that
Boy Scouts, working in relays, took
the numbers from big glass con-
tainer. Each number was in gela-
tine capsule.
The territory was divided into six
districts corresponding to the six
regular representative districts, two
on the Island of Hawaii and one on
Maui and Kauai, Molokai the famous
leper settlement being included under
Maui
The diversity Of races and tongues
represented in Hawaifs cosmopolitan
population made the registration and
the draft a tedious and difficult busi-
ness but Maj. Francis J. Green of the
governors staff, who was the moving
factor in both problems received the
commentator Of General Crowder
for his work.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
SURGEONS APPROVE
ANAL LGAMAT|0N At
CHICAGO CONGRESS
DIR, John Clark Of Philadelphia
Is Chosen Head of New Or
ganization; Mayo to Be the
Next,
rst sosn,ss JOURNAL SPECIAL LEASED w,su

. Ibf NoNNh1 JOURNAL SPECIAL LGABep WlHA
Chicago, Oct, 15.-The clinical con-
gress of surgeons, meeting here this
week. has united with the American
college Of surgeons, and the enlarged
organization henceforth is to be
known as the Clinical Congress of the
American College of Surgeons. The
union was effected at a meeting of
the clinical congress held late today.
The officers of the new organization
are:
President, DR.. John G. Clark, Phila-
delphia.
First vice president, DR.. James B.
Eagleson, Seattle, Wash.
Second vice president, DR.. F. N. G..
Starr, Toronto, Canada.
Secretary, DR.. Franklin II. Martin,
Chicago.
DR.. William j. Mayo of Rochester,
Mimi. was elected as the president
for the term following that of DR..
Clark.
Maj. c. E. Goldman of Philadelphia
and II. H. Gross. president of the
Universal Military Training league.
spoke at the meeting pending the
election, their subject being military
training. A resolution was then adopt
ed urging on congress the passage of
measure along the lines of the
Chamberlain bill for universal mill
tary training and that the canton
ments now used by the national army
be utilized for such work
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
CHEAP NEWSPAPERS
DOOMED, SAYS BEETHEN

Salt Lake City, Utah, oct 25,-Pre-
dicton that the day of cheap newspa-
pers, both in price and quality, has
passed, and that the public will be re-
quired to pay more for its favorite
news medium, was made today by
Joseph Blethen, president and gen.
eral manager of the Seattle Times
who is attending the quarterly meet
ing of the Associated Press.
Mr.. Blethen predicted that metro
politan newspapers would no longer
be able profitably to produce a penny
paper and meet the present cost of
labor and material. He declared that
the present price of white wood pulp
paper was brought about by the news
papers themselves and not entirely on
account of the war He said that
there was no possibility of the price
OF paper receding to the figure before
the war,
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
Long Distance Of United States
From Her Armies Necessi-
tates Huge Cargo-carrying
Fleet to Maintain Men,
THINKS END OF WAR
STILL LONG WAY OFF
Peace Before German Military
Party Is Crushed Would Be
but Opportunity for Further
Preparation for Conquest.

Kansas City. Mo, Oct. 25.-The
dire necessity Of a speedy and ma
terial increase in American shipping
as war measure was enunciated en-
phatically by Lord Northcliffe, head
of the British war mission, in a talk
before 200 editors of seven middle
western states at a luncheon given In
his honor in this city today.
Lord Northcliffe gave especial
stress to the distance of the United
States from the fighting front and the
necessity Of large cargo transport
fleet,
Speaking of the ending of the war.
he asserted that there was posi-
bility that he and others of his own
age might not live to witness It, He
said it was his belief that it was only
beginning
Peace tomorrow, he declared, would
mean only greater and more disas-
trous wars in the future in which
Germany would not make the mistake
of challenging the world
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
Strive Vigorously for Liberty Loan
Quota, Urges Reserve Bank Officer

bonds selling
the following telegram j.
buqucrq n.
only remaining complete subscriptions to
liberty
throughout
subscriptions officially Washington night
cceied billion dollars While number
with showing quote
"Above all il desirable that
should be reached but heavy should be Obtained
minimum allotment is
minimum
regretted that District 10
throughout
individual
fails to produce its FUN maximum s2ooooo0oo This has
accomplished, two remain
companies should
unrening appeal
until the campaign is brought
j.. L. CROSS,
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
POSSEMEN START
SEARCH IN HILLS
FOR TRAIN L00TERS
Repeated Robberies of Freights
ON Denver and Rio Grande|
Prompt Offering of Big Re-
wards,
t.> MORNING JOURNAL SPECIAL LEASED ~,s,l

Salt Lake City. Utah, Oct. 25.--Fif-
teen blank warrants were issued to-
day at Lark, Utah, for the arrest OF
the members of gang Of systematic
freight train robbers. A reward OF
$500 for each of the members of the
gang was ordered to be posted.
The robbers are stated to have OPP
Grated on Denver e. Rio Grande trains
In and near Lark and Fort Hartman,
A shipment of silk dresses destined
from Chicago to Long Beach, Calf,
was the most loot taken from a car
last night. The dresses were said to
be worth about $4,000.
Deputy sheriffs went to Lark today
and citizens were armed to assist In
hunting down the robbers.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1917-10-26
GENERAL MURGUlA Is
ON WAY TO MEXICO CITY

Juarez, Mex, Oct. 25.-When Gen
Francisco Murguia left Chihuahua
City for Mexico City Sunday night
German Consul Ernest Goeldner ac-
companied him on his special train, a
highly reliable business man from the
state capital who arrived here tonight
said. The purpose of General, Muir
guia's trip south was not known there,
he said, but there was q report that
Murguia had been transferred to
Morelos and that Gen. Eduardo Her
nandez would succeed him.
The merchant said that while prep
arations were being made to receive
President Carranza in Chihuahua City
on November 10, there was now a
strong doubt in the minds OF the mer-
chants that the president would come
north,