Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-20

attitude, was the one that rules
whatever the French do In dress
winch is, TO make the best OF the
human figure and give it as good an
outline as art ana nature combined
can produce
Today, it is exceedingly difficult to
make an American woman appear in
her shirt sleeves in public; In the
privacy of her own home, yes, but
even there she finds "A one-piece frock
far more artistic than a cloth skirt
with separate white blouse. 1t is
because she has discovered, after
many years, that the figure looks in
flnltely better and more graceful
with long line reaching from neck
to hips, that she wears a sweater con-
stantly in the house. She has begun
to feel that the waistline should be
oblitcratod at all costs
In this frame of mind, she naturally
turns to The gown cut in one piece,
hanging in long line. 1t allows her
to comfort herself with the thot that,
even if her waist is too thick in front
and her skirt too thick in front and
her skirt hides these Deficiencies
which are covered up 10y the frock or
coat that is charitably n tritle too
high in the waistband. passes them
by without revealing them to the on
locker.
Long Line Under the Arms.
So iusistent have the women be
come upon hiding the waist, except
by the merost fraction of supple
curve, that the drcssmakers are pleas
ing them by introducing drapery un-
der the arms which hangs below the
knees. II is transparent, this drapcry,
and floats about in the air as the
wearer uses her arms. but II fulflls
its mission of Strengthening out the
figure in an admirable manner. IL
cannot be employed on an informal
frock, the kind that one would wear
between the hours OF in the morn
ing and in the evening, but on any
type Of evening irock, II is well
placed.
Another method that the dress
makers have of catering to the con-
cealmcnt of the waist line is the use
of the elaborate cape Of mlle or lace
that goes over the shoulders aud eX-
tends to the tips of the fingers. The
fashion for lace of any kind gives one
variety of methods of draping the
body line in q llssome manner. In
daytime frocks the long line is given
by the use of braid, of ribbon, or
pleating and embroidery. There are
also glorified suspenders Of orna-
mentation that are attached to skirts
with chiffon blouses that give the
correct and desired silhouette. They
do not extend over the front and back
Of the frock, but pass over the
shoulders, reach to the hips, widening
as they go under the arms, and are
often loosely belted in at the waist
by one or more of the draped girdles
that attach themselves to every kind
of gown this season.
These suspenders, by the way.
should prove an inspiration to the
woman who wants to bring the
gowns she possesses into the present
picture. If she has n dark silk or
cloth skirt for example, with thin
blouse to match in color, she can
easily bring the two into a composite
whole by the addition 0f this
skeletonized jacket of embroidery, or
soutaching on net.
Lace is Rioting over Arms.
The experts prophesied a revival
of lace in the immediate future and
the knowledge they possessed, proved
eXact. Lace positively riots over the
new spring clothes. 1t is used for en-
tire frocks, for long wraps, for para
soils neglgees, petticoats, coats and
evening lIOCh uldptlSs
There is surely some economical
reason behind this furore for valu-
able and not easily procured article
of dress. 1t is quite evident that the
French wish to make lace the high
fashion in order to give employment
to the thousands of needle workers of
its own country and those who have
come from Belgium and who have 70
be supported by the French govern
ment. This strain of caring for the
homeless of the neighboring country
is telling on France. for, in addition
to the prisoners she has taken, the
number of alien mouths in which she
has to put food, constitute a small
nation. Therefore, to give the Bel
gians and the French widows work
all sorts of industries have been re-
vived and encouraged, especially
those that will have a good chance OF
bringing IN American dollars con
verted into francs. In America, We
are minus needle workers of inn
portance, so the major portion OF
what we must use, comes from the
lacemaking centers of Europe. The
fashion for il may lead to a foolish
and mar.istic application of chear
and tawdry laces to frocks, and a
mass of it where it should be avoided
I nut, so lar, tneIe Is no ulinlnuUon OF
the fashion which came into its first
bloom as the spring openings were
held.
Precious laces are to be held in
estvv en- again, so those who have point
lace berthas Irish point and crochet
old Venetian flounces, and Chastilly
sh1wls may as well bring them to
light and see to what use they can be
put. certain dressmaker OF high
skill has declared that whenever the
era of precious lace comes around
she wants to go out of business, for
all her hest customers come to her
laden with heirIooms, which are cut
after a day that is done, and demand
that their gowns be trimmed with
them and the price correspondingly
lowered. No one era, she goes on to
explain, cuts its lace so that II is pos
sible to use 1t again without the ut
most patience and ingenuity, and the
time and vitality used up in adjusting
lace to a new frock and prevailing
Silhouette should be paid for extra
Instead of being able to get the time
used up by her most expensive work
ers in arranging the lace, her GUS
toners are fretful with her for not
deducting as many dollars from the
price Of the frock as the lace was
worth when 1t was bought