Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-01-28
BY ANNE RITrENHoUsE.

E7HIS week is the ebb tide of fash
ions. We are tired of the old;
III we are mot sure of what Is to
- come; we haven't sufficient
money left over from the Christmas
flnery. and the only bits Of reading that
interest US acutely are the details of
sales and the information concerning
things that are happening in France
which will lend themselves to whatever
processes of alteration are being work
ed out in our sewing rooms.
Next week our interest in fashions
may be revived. because the happen
ings in the Paris houses are scheduled
to begin February and run through
the month. with the houses of Cheruit
and Cabot coming last. as usual We
will get fragmentary bits of informa-
ton by cable and letter. but we will not
have a sight of any of the new clothes
until the middle of March. probably. 1t
is not wise. however. to go recklessly
into the purchase of any new garment
or expend useless vitality in the rear
rangement of an old one unless we get
an inkling of what is to appear over
the horizon.
There are conflicting rumors coming
from France. each of which has a set
Of American experts to accept it. One
rumor is that the directoire period will
come back for spring, followed by the
FIRST empire fashions for summer. An
ether rumor is that the jupe tonneau.
o. barrel skirt, which Cabot put out
N1-hf ch fpn
before that. is to be revived.
To guess which OF these two prophe-
cies will come true is as futile as guess
ing what is to be the outcome of the
great war. 1t is quite probable that
more enthusiasm by Americans than
the barrel skirt. There is nothing new
about the latter. 1t provides the same
extended circumference between the
hips and knees that we got SO familiar
with last winter. and its only claim to
departure from the commonplace Is
its narrow hem.
1t may be that the Introduction of
this barrel skirt as forerunner of the
spring openings is really to emphasize
the determination of the French de-
signerS to make the skirts longer and
much narrower at the hem. 1t will also
fashion that there is a certain type of
dfrectoire skirt which is high-waisted,
has folds that fall outward at the hips
to increase the circumference there
and then shapes downward to the very
ankles, where 1t is SO narrow that the
wearer can scarcely walk.
Four years ago this skirt was launch
ed for the opening by few smart de-
signers and was called first empire
skirt Mark you. there is grace about
such a skirt, and not the ugliness
which the stiff barrel exploits. If we
are to wear narrow skirts. and every
thing points toward that fact then II
Is much better to have the kind of skirt
known as the first empire. This has
pleats at the high waist line, which, in
their downward sweep, keep the ma
terial of the skirt from girding in the
figure at the end of the corsets across
the back. which provides one of the
ugliest lines known in the history of
dress.
Such skirt Is admirably portrayed
In that wonderful picture by Zuloaga
Of Mile Marcelle Souty. which Is on ex-
hfbition in America, and which has
been widely copied and printed
throughout this continent.
The barrel skirt, as it is seen in its |
present form. ARRIVING from the house
OF Callot and few of her imitators,
has little to recommend it; If 1t is
merely an indication Of something else
to come, a shadow that foretells the
loosening of the waist line and the
of the ankle line, then it !
should be gladly greeted. There are few
women who look well in extra full
oil IN han hat (,,J