Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-08

D
toned from elbow to wris. flare so
far over the hands that they have to
be rolled back carelessly to show IA
black facing. The belt-is five inches
high, softly folded, buttoned at the
side with black bone and has top
which rolls down TO show black
lining.
have given this gown i'm detail
because it promises to be one of the
real successes of the season and II
has either inspired several gowns
made in the same fashion or else the
French designers united on this idea
as means of handling several kinds
of fabrics. There is a black and tan
crepe de chine frock made in this
manner and there is a black and
white crepe de chine with a bodice
half low in back and quite low in
front, filled in with white chiffon.
This half-and- half skirt is decided
ly a feature of the spring fashions,
also the irregular hem which clings
closely to the ankles to eNaggerate
the normal, or abnormal, fullness be-
tween the hips and knees.
There are some suits which show
an even hem, but they are few and
far between. The ultra-fashion which
promises to become the popular fash
ion. is to have your hem ragged.
The Double Face Treatment.
Another trick of fashion that is
worth knowing about is the use OF
double-faced fabric. The idea of up
turning or overturning the fabric to
form its own ornamentation gave rise
/ TO Inls revived method of weaving.
The whole world of fashion today
is concerned with different ideas con-
cerning this treatment of fabric. Even
the hems of skirts are turned upward.
/ instead of under, as they used to be.
/ Wherever one wants to supply touch
{ of color. ii is not held flatly to the
surface of the frock, but to the under
side of the material, which in turn is
/ rolled over to show it,
1t may not be easy or inexpensive
/ to purchase the double-faced fabrics,
but it is always simple to compromise
/ with facings of an opposing color
/ Callot gave this fashion a strong inn
petus toward popularity when she
faced white jersey suits with scarlet
Since that hour women have seen all
sorts of enchanting possibilities in ap-
plying streaks or patches of color
where they were most needed.
Jeanne Lanvin has revived n fif-
teenth century fashion in slashing
materials to show the under surface
of another color. one of the best
looking frocks she has made for the
spring season here is of exceedingly
soft dark blue cloth with a facing of
turquoise blue The skirt is soft ar
ranged in groups of straight pleating
from an irregular yoke, with only the
faintest glimmer of turquoise blue in
a Tapping pleat at the side. The
bodice has back and sleeves slashed
in long lines, which swings to and
f,a t1R. nd h1Nt
as much of the turquoise blue under
surface as the dark blue oversurface.
Across the front of the bodice, reach
ing from waist to chest. is a band of
terra Gotta red satin embroidered with
a border in dark blue at the top. The
sleeves of this frock, by the way are
unusual and significant. They reach
well down over the wrist are shaped
into the arm below the elbow and
/ then widen out into a Veritable balloon
sleeve between elbow and shoulder.
Bclts-And Again Belts.
There is no escape from the orna-
mental girdling of the waist, whether
one observes the normal, the sub
normal or the above-normal line as
the correct and pleasing one. If you
like experiments, try all three lines
at once, and if the effect of this trick
]
you will measure up to some of the
Paris standards.
The designers over there seemed to
be as much up in the air as the pub
lie as to where and when to define the
waistline. In this, as in several other
features of dress they are evidently
feeling around to hit on a silhouette
and a leading fashion that will bring
money to their slim pocketbooks Dc
you blame them? They are in doubt
There is no question about that in
Paris, any more than about the scare
ity of coal, gas and electricity
The demieval robe dropping from
head to heels is still used as the
foundation of many frocks-despite
the overpOwering presence of the oval
silhouette in its various manifesto
tions-but it is lifted straight out OF
the period by a belt that might have
been worn in mid Victorian days. SO
sedately placed is it, about the waist
proper; but to this touch of primness
is instantly added "A swing of the ori-
entail and the far east by the gor-
geous piece of metal or embroidery
that is wrapped about the hips, and
not content with combining the sym
bols of two opposing races and reigns
there is again, just for luck, the high
wasted girdle of the first empire
the one that is always associated with
the name of Josephine.
So whatever the material Of the
girdle and wherever you place it, do
not forget it. That's the important
part of the costume this season.
The shops are selling metal ones
done in gay colors in the form of
cabochons inserted in silver and COM
position ornaments with ends that
drop in front to be added capriciously
to any frock or to the coat of a suit
One that is instantly seized by the
woman who looks for something red
is in medallions of cornelian and a
metal that looks like polished steel.
This is often dropped loosely over a
plain, short coat of dark blue serge
or jersey.
The Transparent Tunic.
Another feature of the spring fash
ions that must be reckoned with Is
the longest tunic we have had in cen
turtles. Possibly American styles
never incorporated this garment in
her history of feminine APPAREL for
the reason that she is not old enough.
Usually this tunic reaches well below
tho knees. Is cut as straight as a