Evening journal., 1917-12-01
e Fashionable Dress Shows Many Variations

'T'HE Chinese influence is making itself felt In many
ways and in interesting ways II is apparent in color
and is apparent in design and in treatment. but
il is always modified. very BEAUTIFUL afternoon gown
seen today is made Of black satin with Oriental sleeves
They can scarcely be called Chinese for they really belong
more properly to the Japansse kmono The gown IS OF
the simple one-pece eort that once called eheHiss
with dropped shoulders and these long shoulders are
seved sleeves that are made exactly like those Of real
kono and it is astonishing how beautifully they dFape
the arms and what charming effect they make. The
same gown shows border around ths sdt embroidered
in Chinese design in a rich blue but not the brilliant
blue that we know as Chinese Therc is very great effort
to bring about the Introduction Of the various forms OF
the Chinese or japanese sleeve that Is the straight sleeve
that ia part Of the garment and really makes the pret-
test most graceful shoulder line that be found IL
is charming in dinner and evening costumes but when
the sleeve long and finished at the wrists does not
allow that freedom Of that required Tor pTae
al uses The sleeve referred 70 above is absolutely new
and how far the fancy will take remains to be seen but
it gives as evidence Of how we are locking to The East
and how in various ways designers are adaoting the
Eastern idea TO Western needs
For considerable period Of time We have bean sendins
materials 70 the Philippines 70 have thst wonderful en-
brodery put upon finer fabric than the native art sup
plies and dealers sending TO China and TO Jspan
various fabrics 70 be enbroidersd and thse are made
into bouses and into gowns with very beautiful eheet
The idea not new II is only the application OF an
older thought for after the Turkish war; there vas
notable effort made on the part Of distinguished Erssh
women 10 help the Turkish widows and orphans by mar
keting their wonderful work They sent them the hnes
French silks and other materials and upon thee the
Oriental embroidery vas done with marvellous results
similar suggestion appears 70 be in the AR Just now ana
It is 70 be hoped il will bring about good results.
The demand for fur seems continue that is to cay,
are told that fur trim every fashionable costume
but at the same time that this edet has gone foth some
Of the very best and fashionable puveyors are ex-
plotting very pretty Of hats se4s mus and bags
that are made Of material with fur trimming spaFhgly
applied They really very accessories and they
will undoubtedly be extensively psed for we cannot create
fur and s impossible that go on using It az
lavishy as was exploited the beginning OF the season
without shortage beng incurred Just bow tar We are
justified too in utilizing the lesser sns that are needed
for the Aviation Corp that is do such big pan IN the
worlds war and for various Government uses is aues
lion which each conscience must decide II we buy,
dealers will continue exploit and 20 push Woman who
tan afford the 6ner rs arc course privileged for they
arc not in demand Il is those that within tho reach
Of the modest pure that open to question
Bags are really taking important place. How TAR
we shall come to carrying our own packages is yet .
problem but We certainly making ready for such need
il snses Many Of the bags beautiful at the same
time that they are practical One such material as
black velvet with band Of rich ribbon the and
heavy satin treated the way and they really
handsome enough 10 be carried with any costume.