davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

sang the title role of Grsclidis. The
embroidery was done in colOred crys-
tails, silk floss and bullion threads
and occupied the lower half of the
front of the skirt. rising from a
groundwork of crystal embroidery.
When the Indian shawls came into
high fashion last September, as parts
of gowns, they were accepted only
by n few conservatives. The intro
duction was dismal failure, altho
IT had been attended by high hopes
and much enthusiasm. The people
who introduced the idea, both dress
makers and milliners, stood In the
forefront of originality For instance,
Jenny of the Champs Elysees gave
herself fundamentally to employing
the Indian shawl in various ways for
day apparel; and yet, she who has
had SO few failures in her short, bril-
liant career. did not put 1t over.
Women who owned these shawls
rushed to the shops and dressmakers
with them and were perplexed be-
cause they could not sell them. The
truth is, the market was overstocked;
genuine cashmere shawls We're too eX-
pensive to cut up into an experiment,
but the shops and dressmakers over
here found that they could import
Paisley shawls and all manner of In
dian shawls from Great Britain. CIV
ing as little as So for some OF them.
SO the idea in itself failed, but its
suggestiveness to fabric makers is
now bearing fruit. Roder instantly
put the pear, the palm leaf and the
Persian tree into his new materials
for spring and summer, and, there
fore, we shall wear muslins that show
these designs.
Another forecast for spring is that
we shall be bordered as tho we were
a state on the map. Most Of the new
materials have ornate borders, and
when the WeaVes has left them off,
the dressmaker supplies them. In
these deep edges will lie most of the
artistry of thin gowns, and even
frocks of satin and chiffon will he
framed i'm with bands Of brilliant
colors. to keep in the picture of the
hour.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

Among the new sport coats intro
duccd ON the French stage and
brought over here Is one of silk jer-
sey in the new poppy red which has
a rolling collar and pockets Of navy
blue. These are touch-i up with
green ana silver embroidery
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

The smarlcst of the French frocks
continue to bo buttoucd down the
back. Cnllot sends new one Of blue
SILK and gaberdine, with lts bodice
embroidered in red at the sides. the
round blue buttons IN "a straight line
down the back It has an old-fash-
toned CAMP of white lingerie.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

THE advent Of the barrel skirt
l. into the fashions came az such
an amazing movement, practically
unheralded, that 1t has caused quite
AN upheaval In the world that makes
clothes for quick selling.
So little is settled concerning this
silhouette, that even the most expert
manufacturers of ready-to- cos
tumery are a trifle in doubt as to
whether or not their venture into the
barrel silhouette will help them. The
individual who buys a new costume
as an experiment in fashion. not feel
ing sure whether II will give her
enough service for the money she has
invested, is perturbed over the eX-
pertinent. She has right to be, for
every level l-headed woman feels her
self lacking in the essential qualities
of Judgment when she puts good
money into the wrong thing. But
her perturbation is only ripple COM
pared to the storm of doubt that as
sails the importer or the manufac-
turor who puts thousands OF dollars
into a new line or a new fabric. lie
may be swamped before the first
month of the season is over, while the
individual can go on wearing the cos
tune or alter 1t to serve a more Sc
date phase of fashion.
When a new silhouette is launched
at regulation French opening. the
importers and the apparel people in
this country take up the new thing
with stout heart, for they have a
great nation behind them and they
know that there Is always safety in
numbers. If all the designers in
Paris unite on silhouette and all
the importers in this country sub
scribe to 1t, there is left small doubt
of its ultimate acceptance and there
is "A good chance for its success.
Working In Doubt.
1t is when n new fashion appears
over the horizon like a sailing ship
and seems to be coming directly into
the harbor of Success, that the de-
signer. the importer and the manu-
facturer are In doubt as to which way
to work. If women like this new
fashion II will be carried to instant
success If they do not like it, il will
be doomed to failure in a fortnight;
the money must, therefore, be riskei
and the idea must be put out with
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04
Forecast Of the New
Spring Silhouette

emphasis; yet the verdict remains
with the public.
This is the situation at the present
moment regarding the new silhouette,
which goes under the common name
Of the barrel skirt. The latter gar
mcnt is merely tho form in which tho
new outline was launched. but this
skirt was actually fccler toward an
entire sOmersault In fashion. 1t was
for this reason that the manufac-
turers were working in doubt and that
the importers were loudly blowing
their importation of this skirt, be-
cause there was the feeling in every
heart that "A definite change was to
come quickly and that no one must
be caught mapping.
There are many who say that the
barrel skirt, or the new silhouette
will not go in this country; that 1t
failed n year ago when Callot and
Pauuin introduced IL and that women
are satisfied with the straight lines
of the medieval and see no reason TO
change.
There Ia little common sense be
hind this argument, If one Judges the
future by the past, which Is the only
trumpet drawing attention to the way
TO look at history in any phase of its
making. Exactly the same argument
was made against the fun skirt,
which came in at the precise hour Of
the great war. The same arguing,
even more strongly put. was ad-
vanCed against the sheath skirt. and
so contemptuous was the American
attitude toward this garment that
Poiret launched. that women who
wore ii were openly laughed at on
the streets and mocked by rude men.
And yet. We all know the result.
The hObble skirt. as II was called,
became commonplace of women's 5
wardrobes TIL full skirt was not
only accepted, but az much eXaggcr-
ated as il wa. At the end of the eight
eenth century. Designers who did
not fall in line with the quick ac-
ceptancc of the new styles found
themselves out Of patrons in a few
weeks.
With these experiences in the inn
mediate past. there is good reason to
believe that the new silhouette has
every chance OF being rapidly taken
up by the American women and a
farewell said to the straight. tunic
effects borrowed from the twelfth and
fourteenth centuries.
Looking at the barrel skirt from
this light, its Importance can be read
lily estimated. II is the first garment
to Indicate an abrupt change in our
outline, and II is on the changing OF
outline that all fashion is nodded.
Nothing else really counts TO the
manufacturers. the importers or to
that intricate network of industry
that spends millions of dollars and
employs millions of people.
The Spring Forecast.
This month sees all the openings
N
we do not get them for a month. In
the meantime. the forecasting Of
what we may see and what we may
accept is going on by cable and let
ter. The feeling is that so much in
the way of new fashions was launched
in Paris between Christmas and Feb
ruary. that the thunder has been
stolen from the regular openings.
No one at the present moment eX-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

Separate skirts have come back into
fashion. after years of neglect. There's
n reason. The universal top coat, the
short chcmisc tunic and the outside
blouse have contributed to the intro
duction of the separate skirt for ali
hours OF the day.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04
Striking NeW GOWns
From Paris

The smarlcst Of the French frocl<s
continue TO bc buttoucd down the
back. Cnllot sends new one Of blue
silk aud gabcrdine, with its bodice
embroidered IN red at the sides. the
round blue buttons IN a straight line
down the back It has an old-fash-
toned CAMP of white lingerie.
laryu brings back into fashion
IN, wall of Troy or battlcment edg
ue She puts "a broad piece Of bat
tlcmcnt embroidery in gold and sill
Ncr across the bodice front Of Il blue
crepe gown. The edge OF the deep
sash and the hem Of the skirt are
finished with gold and silver bead
fringe
I.auNiu also sends over remark
able medieval evening gown which
has coat of cloth Of gold. which l.
cut out IN large design In front IN
the manner of the renaissance. II Is
crustod with fifteenth century en-
brIidcry done In colorcd crystals
The skirt Is of blue satin that hangs
IN folds on the floor.
Callot, Lanyin, Cheruit and many
of ~" other designers are puttinc
vivid Innings into the coats of theii
sport suits Tho checkerboard de
sign is In such high fashion for out
ing clothes that it naturally makes
It's appearance as jacket lining.
White leather Jackets continue to
come over from France. for sport
wepr. Both CAllot and Chanel are
featuring this garment. Another
trick that is significant on the French
skirts Is the Introduction of the cuff
hem. This is sometimes made OF kid
or a cloth or jersey skirt; again, Il
is chcckerDoard design In vivid
colors
Chcruit sends over a gown Of rose
colored satin. which is trimmed with
loose. pendant loops made Of small.
rose -COlorcd crystals An important
feature is that the decOlletage ~
round in front. instead of square OF
N-shnped. Another Cheruit gown OF
silver tissue with silver embroidery
has the same decollctagc.
Among the new sport coats intro
duccd ON the French stage and
brought over here is one of silk jer-
sey in the new poppy red which has
a rolling collar and pockets of navy
blue. These are touch,1 up with
green and silver embroidery.
Separate skirts have come back into
| fashion. after years of neglect. There's
| n reason. The universal top coat, the
| short chcmisc tunic and the outside
| blouse have contributed to the intro
duction of the separate skirt for ali
hours OF the day.
II is no longer considered necessary
10 have the two sandwich panels that
form medieval gown match the un-
dership over which they are placed
For Instance. II pale gray undership
with long. wrinkled sleeves TO the
wrist viii have two kings blue satin
panels dropped over 1t front and back
or gray satin panels embroidered al
the edges In an Indian design done
In silver threads will be dropped ovei
plcated undership with long sleeves
of hydrangea blue chiffon. The gray
panels will be weighted with chin
chilla fur at each hem.
There is an effort on the part Of
milliners to bring out sport hats
which have animals cut out OF vel
vo,, tasted on the brim. one has
black cat. another has yellow goose
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

II Has Stirred the Manufac-
turers and Produced Bar
gain Sales of Medieval
Gowns--Paris Says That We
Look Like a Melon, and Not
Like a Planked Shad-Fig-
ured Muslins as Foremost
Fabrics-Indian Shawl De-
signs Copied on Them, Also
Checkerboard Borders and
Fine Stripes.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

lauNiu also sends over remark
able medieval evening gown which
has a coat of cloth OF gold. which l.
cut out iu large design IN front IN
the manner uf the renaissance. II Is
crustcd with fifteenth century en-
br,idcry done In colorcd crystals
The skirt Is of blue satin that hangs
IN folds on the floor.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

There is an effort on the part Of
millinorS to bring out sport hats
which have animals. cut out OF vel
vo,. tasted on the brim. one has q
black cat. another has n yellow goose.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

Callot Lanvin. Cheruit and many
of ~" other designers are puttinr
vivid Innings into the coats of their
spCrt suits Tho checkerboard de
sign Is In such high fashion for out
ing clothes that it naturally makes
It's appearance as jacket lining.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-02-04

larVln brings back into fashion
m, wall Of Troy or battlement edg
iug She puts a broad piece Of bat
tlcmcnt embroidery in gold and sill
Ncl across the bodice front Of blue
crepe gown. The edge OF the deep
sash and the hem OF the skirt are
finished with gold and silver bead
fringe.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
TO STUDY AERONAUTICS ABROAD
Three U. $. Flyers to Train Under
 FrenChmen.

San Diego, Feb. 26.-Lieutenant J.. E. Carberry, Willard F. Harmon, Jr., and Davenport Johnson, army avia- tors who have just been ordered to France for special training in mili- tary aeronautics, are graduates of the North Island Aviation school here. Friends of the three officers said they would proceed to the aviation school at Buc for instructions in piloting single-seater battleplanes equipped with machine guns.
 Lieutenant Carberry was a member of the first class of junior aviators graduated from the North Island school He won the Mackay trophy in 1914. Lieutenants Harmon and Johnson, who were graduated here last year, have been stationed with the first aero squad at Columbus, N. M.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26

and the ear lobes must touch the shoulders.
 Each idol has its little chapel with in which it sits or reolines. The roofs of &hese shrines are in most cases elaborate with carvings in gold and vermillion. Tall poles with fanciful- ly carved bases display sacred flags at intervals along the pagoda plat form. On feast day the colors and glory of the shrines and flags is fur ther enhanced by the splendor of the throngs which frequent the pagoda. Silks and splendid colors are offset by the brilliant whiteness of spotless robes and coats. Bands of musicians are seated here and there, while port able restaurants and displays of sweetmeats give touch of gaiety to the scene. Above the pinnacled roofs of the shrines and the small white pagodas of the temple area. and the flag-bedecked poles grows the "pyra- mid of fire'' toward the sky. An ir- regular cone, shaped in lines of beauty, the pagoda is an object to compel admiration. Gold covers its surface from base to tip. CThe pin nacle of the pagoda Is crowned by an artistic and intricate framework of gold studded with king ransom in rubies. Tiny bells are hung here at intervals which tinkle out remind CT to the worshippers below the priceless gems which crown the ob- ject of their adoration. It is charac- teristic of the east to be thus lavish in their, creations of beauty even though the display is hidden from the sight of the eyes, Three hundred feet and more above the heads of the pople hands the most beautiful and artistic detail of the pagoda.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
APOLLO QUARTET COMING.
Will Give Concert at Methodist ChuTrh
 Wednesday,

The Apollo Quartet, the qualitS quartet of Boston. will give con cert in the auditorium of Trinity Methodist church Wednesday eve ming under the auspices of the Meth odist Brotherhood. The quartet vii be accompanied by a reader, Miss Dorothy Berry Carpenter of Boston. to assist in making the program more varied and pleasing. Miss Carpenter Is a dramatic reader of known ability and pleasing personality and comes we'll recommended.
 To those who have heard the Apollo Quartet on former visits to New Brit-l ain no introduction is needed. Ths1 Apollo Quartet is Boston's most fa-I nous male quartet. It was organizedj in 1888. It's present mem bership con- sists of four young musicians who1 have attained high standard of art-I istry. both in solo and ensemble sing T ing. Their voices are of unusual refinement breadth and richness and are remarkably similar in quality. ! Their programs, dignified and of xS-l cellent musical merit are delightfullyl varied with interesting bits of orig inality and humor.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
MISS MINER PRAISED.
With Few Hours in Which to Pro.
 pare, She Takes Leading Role.

With Few Hours in Which to Pre-
 pare, She Takes Leading Role.
 With only a few hours time ir. which to learn the part, Miss Ruth Miner, daughter of MT. and Mrs. F.. w. Miner of Park Place. was sud- denly called upon to take the part of Dora" in last weeks production of "Diplomacy' at the Lyceum and at the afternoon and evening per formance she carried this leading role in a most acceptable manner.
 At 10 o'clock Friday night Miss Dorothea Antel and her sister. Miss Irene, both members of the Naylor Players, received a \ message from their home in Cleveland advising them that their mother was critically l ill., They imm ediately left for their home af1d Miss Miner was given the principal character to portray. At both performances she was given a generous ovation by the audience which understood the conditions under which she had been compelled l to leap into the breach.
 Because of her excellent work, Miss Miner has been retained to take Miss AnteIs part this week.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
POTATOES AT 1 1-5c
 LB. FOR GERMANS
Food Board Establishes Price Far Below That Demanded in
 Local Maorkets.

London, Feb. 26. 5:55 a. m-Adolf von Batocki. president of the food regulation board, discussed food problems with the Reichstag advisory committee on Saturday, according to an Amsterdam despatch to Reuters Explaining the plans for the coming year, Herr Batcocki said that avail able stocks were scanty and must be carefully managed. He added that the use of bread grains for fodder must be prevented.
 Herr Batocki announced the inten- tion of the food board to fix the price of potatoes for the entire year at five marks a hundredweight, except in the west and south of Germany, where it would be six marks. He emphasized the importance of a supply Of bread grains and potatoes for everybody and milk for children at least. The food dictator said that it was impossible to increase the meat rations owing to the urgent necessity of maintaining 2 the stock of milch COWS for butter and milk.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
BALLIN PLEASED BY
 SUCCESS OF U-BOATs
D1rector- General of Reimbursement can Line Says Commerce Has &s,
 Been Scared Or ScaS

Amsterdam, Via London. Feb. 26.- Tn an interview in the Taegliche Rund- schau Albert Ballin, director general of the Hamburg-American line, says that Germany may we'll be satisfied With the successes so far of unre- strlcted submarine warfare. Herr balEn says that the object of the cam- palgn was not to sink ships but to stop commerce with England and that this had been fully attained, as neutral trathc was stagnating.
 Referring to the German ships lying in American harbors, Herr Balm said that a treaty existed be- tween Germany and America which dld not allow confiscation and that he had no ground to assume that the United States would not observe this treaty. President Wilson, he added, has based the rupture of diplomatic relations on international law, and therefore he considered it quite inn possible that the president would himself disregard an international agreement.
 'Germany's aim,' he concluded is to issue from the war victorious With victory she will have won all; without 1t she will have lost all."
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
WRITERS CRAMP FEARED.
President Not to Sign Commissions
 for Minor Officers.

Washington, Feb. 26.-Under rul- ing of the judge advocate; general of the army, the president is relieved of the task of signing commissions for officers of lower grade in the army and hereafter will sign only the com missions of general officers. For off, cers of lower grade the signature of the secretary of war, ''as, by the pres ident," it is held, will comply with the law.
 The ruling lifts a heavy burden off the president, particularly in view of proposed increases in the army. It is estimated that if 50,OOO officers were commissioned for an army of 5O0,O0O men it would take the pres ident more than a week of full work ing days to sign the commissions
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
oVER-WORKEO MAN
Bank Cashier Almost a Wreck
 How He Regained Strength.

New Britain people will realize that this is one more link in the wonder full chain of evidence proving that Vinol. which contains beef and cod liver peptones, iron and manganese peptonates and glycerophosphates has no equal to create strength.
 Mr. Chas. A. Ogle, Monrovia, Md, says:
 fFor many years I was school teacher, then for three years was Deputy Clerk in Frederick County. Md, and for the last three years I have 1been Cashier of the First Ma tional Bank. My nerves got in such bad condition, and with poor as- similation of food, I was fast becom- ing a physical and mental wreck Seeing an advertisement for Vinol I purchased a bottle, and found it to be exactly what I needed. It has not only benefited my nerves, but built me up both mentally and physically, one suffering as I did"
 Try a bottle of Vinol with the un- derstanding that your money will be returned If 1t does not help you,
 "The Clark & Brainerd Co.,, drug gists; Lggett's Riker- -Hegeman store: John J. McBriarty; George M. Ladd: w IF. Russell. New Britain. Also at the leading drug store in all Connec- ticut towns"
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
MUSICAL ENrTERTAINNIEN
Baptist's Young Peoples Society Plans
 Tuesday Night Social.

The Y. P. S. c. E.. of the First Baptist church will give a dramatic and musical entertainment in the chapel tomorrow evening, beginning at 8 o'clock. w. H. Whedon, a grad uate of the New York School of Ora tory, will give several readings, and piano, violin and mandolin selections will be rendered by different members of the society. The program is as follows:
 Music. piano and mandolin: read ing "Stowaway," w. IT. Whedon; music, violin solo; reading, "A Big Mistake" w. Fl. Whedon: music vocal solo; reading. Shakespeare, selected, w. Fl. Whedon; music, piano duet; reading, Old-Time Religion, w. H. Whedon; music, piano, flute and vio- lin.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
Advertised Letters.

The following Is a list Of letters un- claimed at the New Britain. Conn. post office. February 26, 1917i George Anderson. Mrs K. Bagson. Miss Margaret Blumm. Nory Borowak. -. w. J. Blanchard. Miss Avis Coburn. D. L. Conder. John Coffey. . Richard H. Dana. Jr. M. Deger. MT. Delaney. Edmund Diggs. Frank Eagan. Mrs. Lillian H. Freeman. ?. Miss Gladys Grey. Mrs. L. w. Harris. B. H. Hurwitz. Mrs. Harivel. G. F. Huff. Jahn Karlsson. Mollie Kimball Mrs. R. LavOriz. John LeVasseur. Susan Liabacenice. Mrs. Chas.. B. Lyons. Albert Tenevowicz. MT. Ford. / Jas. Mallon. Arthur Mills. Thomas Malone. M. c. Moran CD. w. J. McCrum. Miss Adelaide l.. Mof1itt. Miss May Malone. Wesley J. Officer. Thomas O'Brien. Angelina Pottoi. c. R. Parker. Frank Malgesini. Rev. F. w. Raymond. Mrs. Mary Beck. MT. Richardson. c. Setavice Reginald Whamond. Miss Minnie Weber. Ask for advertised letters and men, ion date of list.
 w. F. DELANEY,
 Postmaster.
New Britain herald., 1917-02-26
SWEDISH SOCIALISTS SPLIT
2 N\3 Schism in Ranks Become Acute Through Publication of Call for Formation of New Party.

Stockholm, Feb 26, via London, 12:5O D. m.-The rupture between the warning factions of the socialist party, which was foreseen during the recent congress here, has come to pass. Members of the socialist left have published an appeal for tho formation of a new socialist party.
 The proclamation is signed by fifteen members of the party on the proclamation and eighteen from the general party organization.