davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18

the sleeve is put into the armhole of
the lining. and the outer material is al
lowed to drop over It, moving with Sc.
curity and freedom according to the
shifting Of the shoulders, then you get
the best armhole that the American
tailors can achieve.
This is the kind that Is now IN high
fashion. It is run we'll over the top
of the arm and up on the lining. in
order that there may be no revealing
of the inside material when the outer
armhole swings to and fro. Some dress
makers use a band of embroidery or
soutaching or ornamented cloth Of some
kind over the lining from the edge Of
the armhole half way to the front, in
order that the effect is good when the
outer armhoIe shifts.
The recognition given by the design
ers to this armhole in the lining has
been the reason for an influx of sleeves
made of different material from the
gown fabric and also in different col
or. Gowns of dark blue satin may have
full Italian sleeves of gray lace mount
ed over silver tissue OF gray chiffon
and caught into the wrist with a broad.
cuirass cuff of the silver.
Street frocks Of heavy cloth will have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18

the neck line and the armhole will be
as poor as though you had bought the
suit ready made for $40. Sometimes 1t
is poorer.
This TRADE against armholes must be
taken as prelude to the kinds of arm
holes we are asked to wear. Let us
hope that the cutters of this winter
will have learned more than they knew
last winter. If they are going to at
tempt dozen instead of two varieties.
There is the tight. directoire armhole
that hugs the skin SO that the fronts OF
the coat or bodice must be perfectly ad-
justed in order that they will not rise
in waves about the neck.
There is the long. loose Chinese arm
hole which demands a certain lack Of
contour in the bodice or jacket.
There Is the pear-shaped armhole
which extends to the waist line and
into which an elbow-length or three
quarter sleeve is usually placed. And
topping the list of comfortable arm
holes Is the one that belongs to the
lining and not to the bodice.
II you have had trouble with the Al
Of your Jackets and blouses because OF
ill-cut armholes, remember that this
| last type saves temper and tears. Wher
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
CHARTERS STEAMER TRENTON
Potomac and Chesapeake Company
to Put Vessel in Service.

Steamer Trenton has been chartered
by the Potomac and Chesapeake Steam
boat Company for service on the Poto-
mac and she is expected to be here in
time to take up service Tuesday morn
ing. She will. in a measure, fill the
place Of the steamer Majestic. recently
taken by the government for Navy
transport service. and will be operated
between this city and river landings az
far as Colonial Beach and the landings
In Mattox creek.
The Trenton several years ago ran
upon this route and later was operated
on the route to Upper Machodoc creek.
Later, she was sold to Norfolk parties.
who ran her on q route out of Norfolk
to North Carolina sound ports. Recent
ly she has been in service between
Elizabeth City and Nags Head. N. c.,
and she comes to this city from that
route. 80
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18

mains conventional. So little has been
done with this garment in the line OF
originality that we begin to oeneve
even In this line Of American costumery.
Paris, as you remember, insisted that
she could do little with the coat suit
because her tailors were welding hano
sequence of it is that we wear exceed.
ingly good-looking suits.
It is rather a relief to the woman who
likes the Anglo-Saxon type OF rigtdly
conventional coat suit, when the French
do not interfere with their more ornate
ideas. We look our best in what, is
known as the riding habit coat suit.
and we should be devoutly thankful
when we are left alone to wear it as
much as we wish. This season we have
that wish granted.
The sleeves that we adopt in Jackets
run on an even line from comfortable,
loose armhole to the wrist.
1t is not possible to deal with sleeves.
In detail or in mass. without taking tho
armhole into serious consideration. Tho
tailors and dressmakers talk in an In
teresting manner about this alleged
minor part Of the costume. 1t is pity.
one might say in passing, that there
are any cutters and filters who treat 1t
as q minor consideration, for the aver
age woman knows that the skill or
awkwardness in cutting an armhole
makes or mars the fit of the frock and
her Individual comfort.
Il X
There are few people who can re-
strain their tempers when the subject
Of armholes is mentioned. because the
extraordinary deficiency of talent in
this particular line Of dressmaking
reaches out into the daily lives Of
thousands Why a cutter cannot abso-
lutely establish proficiency in the out
line Of a collar and the adjustment of
an armhole is something that millions
of women can never understand. You
may pay $3.50 for coat suit, and both
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
BY JAMES H. COLLINS.

A British naval officer who has been
doing teamwork with the American de-
stroyers in the submarine zone said the
other day, There are just three points
upon which 1 would want to criticise Uncle
Sans sailors: First, they are too well
led: second. they are too well clothed;
third. they are too Yell paid"
After nearly three years Of war. dur
ing which Europe knew not the familiar
American tourist of peace times. with his
fat pocketbook and characteristic SPEND
ing disposition. a new kind Of tourist has
arrived in the American sailor and soldier,
whose general scheme Of diet. clothes and
pay are so liberal, compared with that
Of the allied fighting men. that our SAIL
ors and soldiers are regarded with the
same interest as was the spending Amerf-
can civilian.
Best-Fed Men in World.
THE best fed body Of men in the
worid,'' our Navy has been pronounced.
and the figures just compiled for the
Navy ration this year show that the high
standard has been maintained. despite the
rise in the cost OF food articles, with very
little extra expense to Uncle Sam.
War has added some complications to
he task Of feeding the Navy, for the
number of men has suddenly increased
from about 81. 600 to more than 200 600,
and hundreds Of small patrol boats and
submarine chasers have been manned
by our sailors on duty in coast defense
districts and elsewhere. Uncle Sam has
been able to maintain his Navy diet eco
nomically by large purchases for the IN
creased forces. But there have been DIM.
culties with the small crews OF patrol
boats because inadequate galley and mess
ing facilities have not favored the eco
nomical issuing and cooking OF rationa
possible on major ships. and an unusually
large allowance for subsistence has to
be made on this type Of Navy craft.
Cost a Secondary Consideration.
Uncle Sam feeds his sailors. not ex-
actIy regardless of cost. but with cost
always the secondary consideration
AZ Admiral McGowan, paymaster gen.
eN Of the Navy. puts II; Cost is BY
erllsd by the Revised Statutes, which
specify the quantities Of the various
food staples which may be issued e
each man in the naval service. and
good nourishment and palatability
come nrst. with cost figured out ct tn.
s ssen q led the year at'er inc men ha''
The Navy ration for 1917 cosi
So,440S. as against $0.3764S for. 1915
These mystic decimals indicate an In.
of about 20 per cent over the preceding
year. Statistics complied by the De.
partment of Labor show that there wal
an INCREASE of 40 per cent in the whole.
sale PRICES of the principal items Of
food. Had the Navy ration increased
yep1 haFa been .liFhtlys eyessekeeess
- nnE16 - ~ - 80 -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
u S. NAVY, NOW 100000 STRONG,
WELL FED AND WELL CLOTHED
Weekly Schedule of Meals, Day by Day
War Has Broug int Even Activity
In What Fig hters Wear.

year. which may be regarded as money
saved.
How Standard Is Maintained.
The Navy's high standard Of diet
was maintained with economy by the
rigid enforcement of the regulations
prohibiting the purchase of patent and
proprietary foods: by closely scrutiniz-
Ing all reports Of the survey of pro-
visions rendered UNIT for use, so that
all causes for loss could be eliminated:
by investigation IN every case where
lions showed q marked difference II
the cost of the ration: by making cakes.
pies, ice cream and SO forth. on board
ship. instead of buying them ashore;
and by care in buying provisions at
seasons when they were most plentiful
and the best prices could be obtained.
The Navy ration is as much matter
of pride to the officials who have 1t in
ords to the officers Of the fleet The
paymaster generals bureau is not
considered 2 nghting force. but If
triment or toothsomeness. that bu-
raau becomes fighting force at once
Weekly Schedule Of Meals.
Believing that the proof of the pud-
Ding il in the eating" the Navy sub
mits a complete weekly schedule Of
meals served to the enlisted men on
board q battleship at sea. the provi-
ship. 80 that this schedule may be
| taken as an illustrator of what is ac-
lcomplished In feeding the Navy under
the most difficult conditions:
MONDAY.
Breakfast.-Fried bacon. fried eggs.
toast, rolled oats. milk and sugar.
bread. butter, coffee.
Dinner-veal fricasee with dump
lings. mashed potatoes, kidney beans.
apple pie. bread. butter, coffee.
Supper.-Vegetable soup. crackers.
roast ribs of beef, onion gravy. ginger
cake. jam. bread. butter. tea.
TUESDAY.
! Breakfast-Fried bologna, fried po-
tatoes. rolled oats. milk and sugar.
bread. butter. coffee.
Dinner.-vermieeni soup. crackers.
mashed potatoes. kidney beans, apple
pie. bread, butter. coffee.
Supper-Fried hamburger steak.
fried onions. lyonnaiss potatoes. COCO
nut cake. fruit Jam. bread. butter. tea
| "WEDNESDAY.
Breakfast.-CereAi, milk and sugar
baked beans. tomato cA$sup, ginger
icake. rolls. bread, butter, coffee.
/ Dinner.-Chicken soup. crackers.
roast chicken with sage dressing.
mashed potatoes. creamed carrots with
peas. jelly layer cake. Ice cream. bread.
1 butter, coffee.
supper-salmon salad, mayonnaise
dressing, baked macaroni and cheese.
Irice custard. bread. butter. tea.
4: xHuRsDAY.s
III
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
New Sleeves Represent Stirring Epochs in

long. tight sleeves of braided satin run
ming from shoulder to wrist. They dc
not mako shocking contrast in color
sufficiently to give an artistic touch
Tho French say that the elimination
Of material IL done for economy. The
slip-on frock is done for comfort as
well as economy in these rushing hours
OF civic activity. and they insist that
tho separate sleeves. jumper frocks.
separate underskirts and differing
bodices and skirts in evening gowns
are also measures of economy:
The French may not realize the dan
gers that beset the amateur who treads
in these paths of rigid economy. Patch
work quilts may be revived as most ef-
fective coverings for early nineteenth
coverings for late 1917 women.
Give woman a chance to use up
scraps in clothes and she will do it.
Ask her to use up scraps in food and
she will point to the full slop pail.
There are women who really buy an
entire gown to use up four yards of
will get a topcoat, hat and blouse
to go with a skirt that has hung In the
closet for. two seasons. ALI in the name
OF economy Is this done. when 1t is
nothing but high extravaganza and
poor artistic judgment.
Be that as it may, the truth about
the new fashions is that q woman may
use separate sleeves, a separate skirt,
a tunic of another fabric and call the
result fashionable frock. II she does
1t well, 1t win be a good-looking frock.
The main idea that prevails is that
the slip, or what the French call a mil
lot. is made as the foundation of a
gown. It has sleeves attached to its
armho1es, and its exposed surfaces may
be trimmed in whatever way a woman
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
CANNOT SEE GERMANS,
ANAT0R'S COMPLAINT
BY PAUL AYREs ROCKWELL.
CableEram to The Sunday Star and
Chicago Daily News. Copyright, 1917.

CableEram to The Sunday Star and
Chicago Daily, News. Copyright, 1917.
PARIS, France. October 12.-It is
difficult to convince the layman tina,
there is anything routine about an
aviator's work. To the civilian the
sible hazards. Each day he rides the
tempest; he takes his life in his hands
with every flight. To the aviator this
becomes commonplace. Witness the fol-
me from Leland L. Rounds of New
York, volunteer aviator. who recently
went to the front with the French
escadrflle No. liz:
I arrived here, but things have been sc
lively up to a few days ago that have
hardly had chance. Flying four hour.
day. and sometimes six, was, a new
in between that did not have the am
bition to read, much less to write.
One German Day.
'It was good bunch 1 had not to try
to get changed. The crowd here is Al
and out for all there Is in 1t. Since the
last two weeks there has not been q
sortfe without numerous combats to our
credit. and during the week of the at
tack we averaged a 'boche' day, which
II not bad, There IL talk Of our Eettins
the fourragere' for tho work we have
done. The escadrille was cited once in
Champagne and II the group is cited
for this attack we shall get it.
my personal part. unfortunately has
been more or less passive. have been
in on everything and have done as
believe I shall ever see a German un-
less he comes up and Introduces him
self. They say It is q question Of get
ting used to It. though. and probably
saThere were foury NJ ne orx ...
about six kflometers (s.6 miies) back
Of the line. Suddenly I noticed every
body doing acrobatics. SO I did the
S o 0evsr eoeed hasdes IN snS
life. as figured that there must have
been some Germans about. but all I
could see was the blue sky. When
we got 9o IN they sSld a. ME that there
ono above. the other below; that one
was shooting at me from below and
two had started to drop on mo. What
are You going to do In a case like that
night!
though. I have had about every KIND
Of flying there is. We have done low
Photographic machines. bomb drop
ping. and we have sunk .sausages' and
shot up trenches with our machine
guns. have been IN ON every bit Of
you can see the time has been wen
spent. <
chap-the weather. was bedS and there
big bombs. The clouds were low and
when I broke through ana let g. Rot
the shooting OF my life. Il was the
first time I was really scared. but
get away from the. 'archies' for about
three minutes. although 1t seemed like
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
Radio School at Harvard.

The NAVY has met the demand for
military trained radio operators OF the
wireless equipment Of the ships OF the
magnified Navy and the many trans
tabiishment of a school for operators
at Harvard University, which has
onened its doors and the hearts of its
people to the $500 young men who are
taking the course.
present year with a class of 900, which
has grown into one 1000 strong, soon
to be increased to $500. the present
capacity Of the school, but which will
be expanded to meet any required in
crease. The idea of the school Is to
teach men who have some knowledge
Of radio work how 1t must be done to
meet the requirements of the Navy at
war. The students come from the re-
serves, the enlisted men and the train
ing stations. and they are selected for
their aptitude for the work.
The school affords an opportunity
for an ambitious young fellow. for on
third class, with base pay of sa7 a
month, or even electrician. second
class, with base pay of $44 a month:
and he has a chance to go up In a
hurry II he pays close attention to his
work. Before the student can enter
Harvard he must be able to receive
ton words under the continental code.
There he IL trained In theory and in
practice, and In the care ana matnte-
nance Of his instruments. The four
month course turns him out a fin
ished operator; and after months ex-
perience at sea he should be able to I'LL
HIS grade satisfactorily.
Under Navigation Bureau.
The control of the school comes
under the general powers Of the bureau
Of navigation. but the division OF naval
communications has 1t under its
especial protection. The officer having
It under his direct care Is Lieut.. Com
Acsr of the school is Lieut.. Aver.
To President Lowell Of Harvard Is
due the credit for opening the uni
versity for the purpose Of the school:
ana its graduates will understand what
10 meant when II Is said that Memorial
Hall IL the schools mess room. Perkins
Hail the gymnasium. Craigie Hall and
walter Hastings are its dormitoriee,
PfercS Hall 10 Its laboratory and Aus
tin Is its lecture room.
Something over 500 have graduated
and gone Into the service: and they
taIs1e,. mono too soon. for they were
need6d. There afe svaeancies Tor 500 It
azfp1eesnk TIL sAas tteys w3lt -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
Cavalry Needed for Army.

The wonderful fight recorded of the
Italian cavalry on the front under Teu-
tonic attack has brought home to some
OF the Army officers the truth that in
the newly organized Army OF the
United States there is hardly any pro-
vision for the mounted arm.
The divisional organization, accord
ing to the tables. calls for no cavalry,
and 1t is well known that all the cav
airy of the National Guard and by far
the greater part of that arm OF the
Regular Army have been transferred
to the field artillery or some other
branch of the service. Most of the
cavalry of the Regular Army is on
patrol or station on the Mexican bor-
der, keeping watch over that expanse
Of territory which no other troops
could guard.
Two regiments Of cavalry are in
cluded in the organization of each
Army corps. but just where they are
to come from has not been made clear.
for 1t takes far more than good horse.
manship to make good cavalrymen, and
1t is freely admitted that the system
Of training the cavalry of the Regular
Army has not been along the lines OF
maneuvers in mass formation, such as
would be required to meet the mounted
force of the Germans or their allies.
Did Not Go Unopposed.
1t is no secret that. the decision OF
the general stan to reorganize the Ma
tional Guard cavalry into field artii.
1ery, thereby depriving the Army Oh
sixteen regiments of the mounted arm
did mot go unopposed by some OF the
off n
Regular Army The easy mobility OF
the cavalry makes it invaluable in the
support of a defensive line along a
considerable front, and the same quar-.
ity enables them to make determined
stand in the defense of retreatine
column; for they can hold on while
the infantry is retreating to new po-
sitions, and then, IL the attack be
comes Overwhelming. make good tneii
retreat by taking to their horses ,. wnacn
have been held in sheltered positions.
with the change in the Italian and
the Russian situations the call for
United States troops becomes more ano
more insistent: and. as the answer to
cavalry defending retreating couu iaa
against il, 1t is plain that a conditioi,
may arise where lack OF highly traineo
masses of this arm may be handicap
to the entire Army.
Kept Cavalry Organized.
IT ia well known that the Germans
have kent their cavalry in perfect or
eanization, although it is equally sure
that when the war broke out the Ger
man army was not short of trained ar.
tillerists for their field artillery ano
were not forced into the adoption OF
makeshffts.
The diflculty of transporting horses
and their forage, which France cannot
supply, makes 1t almost Impossible e
send over cavalry now, even II the
Army had it; but that does not prevent
the organization and training here OF a
suficient number Of that arm to .b %
taken over at a later day Wnen the
transportation problem will not be sc
In the spring there will be. it !.
hoped, fewer submarines: and. 1t !:
expected, many more transports. By
next spring two or three divisions Of
cavalry can be organized and be put II
training preliminary to being sent te
France for the finishing touches tt
their military education.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
NeUs of the Army and Navy

needed to operate the wireless equip
ment of the Navy and the rapidly
growing naval service, for it Is not the
policy of the Navy to take operators
from the mercantile feet, which will
require many more than the Navy it.
self.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18
Clothing Factory in New York.

The Navy has a clothing factory in
New York city where 1t is able to sup
ply the feet in ordinary times with
ter uniforms. But when this factory
was expended to the utmost axtAnt it
could not provide smexdS nGy Win&es
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-11-18

a the current Of clothes goes
IN rushing by, one has strong
A\ temptation to reach out and
e u grasp at the straws that are
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-02
Railways To Be
Allies Problem in
Reviving Russia
Country's Value as Fight
ing Unit Will Depend on
transportation
Stan Cor~syonierc.l

WASHINGTON, Nov. Special con-
sderation will be given the railroad
transportation problem in Russia. COM
plete solution of which is regarded as
essential to the task Of restoring Rus
STA as an effective fighting unit, at the
inter-all.ed war conference. said mem
Der. of the Entente missions here to-
day. II is regarded as urgent that
means be taken 10 strengthen the Muir
man railway, which is almost the last
remaining link between Russia and
Western Europe.
The Thurman railway has its northern
terminus at Catherine Harbor. on the
Thurman coast. The port OF Archangel
in a few days will be icebound, conf
munication through Scandinavia is cut
off, and for at least six months the
newly built Thurman line will strain
under the gigantic burdens IT must
carry, dividing the war-carrying work
with the Siberian railway with its
eastern terminus at Vladivostok.
Problem for Allies and United States
This brief recital was said by an
authority to-day to illustrate half OF
Russia's transportation problem which
must be solved with the assistance OF
tho Allied nations and the United
States. There is a possibility, it was
said. Of Germany aiming blow At
both the Thurman and the Vologda-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-02
War.Saving Plan ToBe
Announced This Week
u. S. Certificates, 500 at a
Time, Will Be Sold on
Easy Terms

WASHINGTON. Nov. Frank A
Vanderlip, chairman .. the War Saw
ings Committee, is expected to an
nounce within the next day or two the
details Of the war savings plan OF the
government, which was provided for in
the second bond issue bill authorized
at the last session OF Congress.
Under the law the government will
issue special war-savings certificates tc
an amount not exceeding $4,000, 100000
to run five years. Not more than s10C
worth of these certificates can be sold
to any one person at any time, and II
made unlawful for one person to hold
at any time more than $1,000 in these
certificates.
1t is the purpose of the Treasury De
partment, under the plans of the War
Savings Committee, to put these GER
tificates out on such easy terms and in
such small denominations az TO make
their purchase almost as easy as buy
ing postage stamps.