davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20
WARTIME GOWNS
At PALAIS ROYAL
Modish Creations Are Feature of
Autumn Display.

The wartime woman is a more tai
lored looking creation than we have
had in America for several seasons,
and while there is as yet no severity
in the cut and finish of her garments,
women OF Washington can easily for
see themselves once more in man
tailored attire.
4 fashionable approach to this style
is a remarkably modish suit the Palais
Royal is showing in a gray wool mix
ture, the three-quarter coat cut along
the coachman lines, with squarely
built and rather snug fitting double
brea sted waist fastened by four large
black rubber buttons, the collar beau
tifully mitered and finished. and the
style carried out in the circular coat
skirt sewed on at the belt line with
little fullness and relieved by a large
square pocket flap falling from the
belt at either side. The skirt is con-
servative in length and fullness and
plainly finished, depending entirely
upon the cut for it's style. Just eX-
actly the suit to wear with one of the
new tailored velour hats they are
showing on the second floor.
This is only one of hundreds Of suits
to select from, the materials being
OF silk and wool.
The wonderful stock OF hats, most of
them fashioned after those by Paris
artists who have racked their brains
to please the American trade. carries
a hat for every possible occasion. Be-
sides the veiours in cushion brin, sail
ors and mushroom shapes, there are
more fanciful creations in Lyons vel
vet, which after all is the material par
excellence for every sort of wear.
Colors? Well they are there to suit
each street or visiting suit, and then
there are daintier ones for evening.
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20

actual illustrations and descriptions
will tend to show.
The bouffaut, hustle and barrel
skirts must give way to the svelte,
straight and slinky. Coats which last
year left the waistline to ripple ir-
responsibly somewhere in the rear are
chastened by uncompromising shear
into clinging vines which hate to be
torn away from the skirt even at the
knees -.r-...
Some latitude is still allowed in
separate coats. The authorities Of
fashiondom have perhaps bethought
themselves of wartime economy. and
Of the full garments which most OF
US bought, and all of us strove for
last winter, and for this reason have
been a bit Ienient in cutting top coats.
A smart. severe model known as
the Trench Coat" is of tweed water
proof, with two belts run through
metal buckles and a snugly-titting
collar. which fastens under the chin
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20
When Fashion Leads
The Well-Shod Woman

Gladly will womankind hail the news
that 50 per cent of the new fall shoes
are to have sensible heels. Do not
throw up your hands. fair "boule-
vardieres." This does not mean an
uncompromNing excuse of leather
One-half inch high. 1t is simply a re-
action from the extremely high heels
which could be spanned by a finger.
American women are responding
nobly TO the wars demand for econ
omy where economy is necessary, and
this new idea in shoes simply reflects
the trend OF the times. For dress
wear the shoes sponsor heels OF leath-
er. slightly curved For street and
sports wear the Cubate and three
quarter inch heels prevail Even opera
and evening slippers are reverting 70
a decidedly more comfortable slant
from the floor" as a salesman ex-
pressed 1t the other day.
For the promenade or for dressy
street shoes there are kid and suede
effects made on shapely lasts. Two
toned boots have about served their
day; and one sees mostly. on we'll
dressed women, shoes Of gray. bun,
black, and subdued colors.
For street wear nothing is in more
excellent taste than sports shoes Of
black calfskin with either a wing-tip
or no tip at all. Low heeled pumps
with gray or buff sPats are still very
good, and are indeed worn extensively
by women who know.
Ask a shoe salesman II silver slip
pers are still good for evening wear.
His answer will no doubt be, Yes, IL
you can get them" It is discouraging
to those who haven't some from last
year, and wonderful news to those
who are more fortunate. Next in
popularity are slippers TO match
froCks. in colored kid or satin. The
new boudoir mules are in black satin
with only shirred ties and q wee
French nosegay on each toe. House
slippers lined with lambs wool are
timely and very pretty. with toes Of
soft-hued satin.
Hosiery is more sober in tone, but
ncnc the less exquisite in texture.
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20

She may be a Dresden China type;
she may have olive skin and forty
centtmeter eyes; she may be petite
and retroussee of nose; she may be
Amazonesque in height, but she
MUST be slender. And more, oh. woe
she must be youthful. And yet an
other relentless decision of those who
decide destinies of dress-she must
have hipsi This oracuIar word will
cause shiyers of anguish and anger
10 run unbidden up and down our
vertebrae- But this Is no use-we
who have been on food parole, who
have enjoyed unlimited liberty as to
diet, must again turn our heavy hearts
and heads toward assiduous consump-
tion Of Eat and Grow Thin A
contourier remarked the other day,
with a shrug of his shoulders, that it
was "un peu cruel pour les pauvre
LADIES'" Like Sherman, Monsieur's
voca bulary was limited in this par
ticular instance. It is horrible, unbe-
heyable. but it must be faced, as
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20

Nighties and chemises are doing
their bit, too, by conforming to more
sensible ideas-less Of froth and more
Of durability. albeit the product ii
very delightful and not homely, az
lots OF durable things are.
The shops are still showing Eauzy
sets OF underwear with cobwebby lace
garniture. One outfit, consisting Of
rightrobe. envelope chemise. camisols
and petticost, is Of sea green silver
cloth with overdress Of flesh crepe
and knots Of rosebuds for trimmiRg.
That is a sample OF very ''Kstish''
lingerie but the general trend is to-
ward elegance in material snd sim
plicity Of line which is still feminine
and yet more in keeping with tho
times
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20

All-over lace caps, wired as to trim,
and saucily tilted, are gathered into a
top knot Of French flowers or a but
ton of fur.
The Washington herald., 1917-09-20

Lisle. when one can get II, Is better
for foot comfort. but for sheer lowell
ness give US silk hose. either plain
or bedecorated. II spells daintinest
like few other perquisites OF the COS
tune.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
THE WAR TAX LAW.

! General satisfaction is felt throughout the
country that the war revenue bill became a
law at the recent session of congress Certain
postal zone system of fixing second class post
age rates is unfair to newspaper publishers. Al
lso, the measure fails to discriminate between
learned and unearned incomes and taxes work
ers infinitely more than it taxes drones. Never
theless there is no evidence in the press OF I'M
reasonable hostility to the law No burdened
interest is railing against it, and there seems TO
be widespread satisfaction that it at last has
become law.
1t seems permissible, therefore, to point out,
in no captious spirit but merely that the mat
ter NAV be generally understood, that prac-
ticaly all of the two and a half billion dollars
to be collected in taxes under this enactment
will be paid by the rich and the well-to-do.
Aside from the added penny on the letters ana
postal cards he mails the poor man, the man
to whom pennies and shllings matter most, will
contribute almost nothing to the nations IN
come save indirectly in the increased prices OF
liquors and cigars. In dry states like Iowa the
tax on liquors will not be In evidence. The
things he really needs, his coffee, sugar, tea
and other necessities of existence, are not taxed
This is as it should be, and the only reason
for calling attention to it is that the citizen
NAV have the fact in mind and tell the street
the government--that the war is costing them
nothing and advise them to climb down from
their perches and subside.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
THREE-cENT POSTAGE.

Detailed instructions to postmas-
tiers on the increased letter mail
rates which become effective Novem-
Der 2, under the terms Of the war
tax bill, have been issued by Post
master General Burleson. They do
not apply to mail to most foreign
countries, which are fixed by inter-
national treaties, but they do apply
to all domestic mail, and under that
classification is included mail to
Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Panama, the
United States postal agency at
Shanghai and all persons in the mill
tary service of the United States in
Europe.
The postoffice department issued
these Instructions:
"Postmasters shall, on and after
November 2, see that postage is paid
at the rate of 8 cents an ounce or
fraction thereof on letters and other
first-class matters, except drop let
tiers. All drop letters, that Is, let
tiers mailed for delivery from the
office at which posted, including
those for delivery by city, rural or
other carrier of such office, are re.
CURED to have postage paid on them
at the rate of 2 cents an ounce or
fraction thereof. Postal cards are
required to be prepaid 2 cents and,
therefore, the 1-cent postal cards
must have a 1-cent stamp on such
cards. Post cards (priyate mailing
cards) bearing written messages,
must have 2 cents postage prepaid
on them"
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
A NEW WEAPON NEEDED.

Germany's air raids on England call atten-
ton TO the lack in this war of great effective
weapon of offense. The killing Of civilians, far
from the battefronts, is poor means of en-
ploying weapon of attack, just the sinking
of una1med commerce boats has been poor
means of demonstrating the submarine a real
war weapon. Germany is combining her often
sive on the west front and on the sea to attacks
in which surprise is the reliance of her strategy,
not effective means of warfare The indirect
means of winning the war which Germany en-
ploys, the oft repeated prediction that food will
win the war, the slow grinding of the entente
offensives, all point to the superiority of mod
ern war defense over offense. French mill
tary expert points to the fact that Germany
with all her forty years of preparation was
blocked at the Marine; that she has not sue
ceeded in great offensive against well pre-
pared opponent since; that she has proved a
great defensive fighter whose offensive
strength is based on taking the enemy off his
guard, rather than overcoming him by superior
skill manpower or weapons.
1t may be the war will end without the dis
covery Of any means or methods by which a
great offensive can be made to bring deci-
sion. We have some reports of the U-boats
giving battle to conveys; it is possible that
Germany will try a more aggressive warfare
with them. But there is no probability that
she will fight battles with them other than
those in which she seeks to surprise commerce
fleets The airship flotilla which shall prove a
real agent to an attack in force has not yet
come into action. The ending of the war by
military means waits for some new weapon. 1t
would be comfort if the defensive strength in
war was harbinger of peace, but it is not A
nation may suddenly attack another as yet I'M
prepared, occupy territory, take immense toll
of lives and property; then dig in and fight a
long defensive campaign to force a settlement
to her advantage. The possibility of stale
mate iii this war presents one of its great
evils.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
CARTHAGE, ILL.,, OCT. |

| DR.. Ida Guthrie returned Friday
morning from Nevada. Mo-. where
she has been attending the national
convention of the American Sugges-
tive Therapeutical association at
Weltmer institute. Dr.. Guthrie was
, elected secretary at this convention.
This association is planning to erect
a 10000 temple in Nevada to be
devoted to psychological philosophy
and methods of healing embraced In
suggestive therapeutics.
Mrs. Elizabeth Pennock, city IL
brarian, sent to Washington. D. o..
Thursday morning $125.79, for the
war library for the soldiers. This
was the full amount Carthage was
| asked to give.
George S. Hearne, who enlisted IN
the navy last spring and is stationed
at the Great Lakes naval training
station, is in the hospital recovering
from an operation on his ankle.
George has twice proven his patriot
ism, first by enlisting and again when
the physician said he must be dis
charged or submit to an operation:
and he said "Pll take the operation
The following young ladies have
formed a knitting club which meets
every Thursday evening to knit for
the soldiers: Misses Adele Harrison,
Gladys OiHarra, Helen Bruce. Sara
Geiger, Ruth Hartzell, Mae Harris,
Ann Dvorsky. Mabel Woodwork and
Mrs. Edward Martin. Miss Sara
Geiger entertained the club Thurs
day evening.
Sunday morning opens special
services of forty" hours devotion, at
the Church of the Immaculate Con-
ception, which commentaries the
Savior's forty hours in the tomo.
Services begin at 1880 p. m. Father
jobs, professor Of st. Francis col
lege, of Quincy, will preach at last
mass and will conduct the forty hour
devotionals. In the evening, Rev. l..
S. Tholen, of Nauvoo, will preach.
Mr.. and Mrs. Bert Mckee of Gales
burg, Mrs. Ida Armstrong, and Mrs.
Chas. Pierson, of Chicago. are In
the city, called by the critical illness
of their mother, Mrs. James Mckee
] Mrs. Hugh Cosgrove OF Chicago, Is
visiting her sister, Mrs. John Culkin.
Rev. F. Bahr, of Lena, is visiting
his daughters, the Misses Bahr, VINO
are attending Carthage college.
James Jenkins is in st. Louis, at
tending medical college.
Mrs. j. Arthur Baird departed Fri
day evening for Minneapolis, Mimi,
where she entered Loring Park sanI-
tarium for treatment Mrs. Bairds
| friends hope she may be restored to
health.
Mrs. Mary Cannon of Sacramento,
Calf, and daughter, Mrs. j. G. Rit-
ter, and little daughter, Mrs. Maxine,
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
IOWA PRESS COMMENT.

! Des Moines Register: Now II is an
nounced that face powder has almost
doubled in price ION account OF war.
! Can it be that our young army omcers
are using it?
! Sioux CITY Journal. 1t now remains
| for the star pitchers to prove strons'
| for the weak batters TO prove strons'
and for the sports writer's to explain
lust how and why it happened. Ihen
another conventional worlds series
will have gone conventionally into MS
| tory.
Burlington Hawk-Eye: Every day
YOU meet men who are doing II as
brayely. as cheerfully, as does .he
man who goes to the front. And that
work at home is necessary. IL is I'M
perative. In fact there could De NO
going to the front, but for the men
and women who are doing their Dit at
home.
Cedar Rapids Republican: Sena'-
or La Toilette must expect to i've u
good old age, or bad old age, lor
he says he expects to serve MS couh-
try for twenty-five years more ana ne
lis now past sixty. Is Wisconsin never
to give some younger and saner man
chance? Is all the Serving to pc
done by the same fellows? But 1t Is
the old story of once in ONCE al"ass
wanting to be in.
Council Bluffs Nonpareil: The wo-
men soldiers of Russia have reyoltea
against their commander. And yet
there are those who say that women
can't fight like the men.
Dubuque Telegraph Herald: Since
the beginning of the war $4,000 horses
have been sent from the United States
to Europe and reports show decrease
of about $4,000 in the number OF
horses in this country since last year.
With gasoline prices mounting to pro-
hibitive heights the American people
are about due for renaissance OF legs
as means of locomotion.
Burlington Gazette: President VIII
son has decided that there will be no
foreign junket by picked members OF
congress. We are engineering an
other junket over there at present
that is far more important. III con-
gressmen desire to assist the country
they can do SO at home by telling
some of their short-sighted constit-
uents why we are in the war.
Mason City Globe-Gazette: Not in a
generation or two has there been such
concerted effort to produce and con-
serve food as has been witnessed for
the past year. The result is becom-
ing evident, and anyone who has been
the rounds Of the fairs has seen a
larger and finer display Of vegetables
and canned goods than was ever dis
played in Iowa before.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
TODAY,s BIT OF VERSE
STAND BY THE FLAG.

! STAND BY THE FLAG.
Stand by the flag, its folds streamed in glory,
To foes fear to friends festal robe
And spread in rhythmic lines the sacred story
OF freedoms triumphs all the globe;
Stand by the flag, land, and billow
BY it your fathers stood unmoved and true;
Living, defended; dying, from their pillow,
With their last blessing pass'd it to you
Stand by the flag. though death shots round it rattle
And underneath its waving folds have met,
In all the dread array of sanguine battle,
The quivering lance and glttering bayonet;
Stand by the flag, all doubt and treason scorning,
Believe, with courage firm and faith sublime,
That it will float until the eternal morning
Pales in its gories all the lights of time
Anonymous.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08

of st. Paul, Mimi, who have hoo,
visiting Mrs. Cannon's sister Toba
w: Davis and wife. for several west-
departed Friday to visit Mrs Cas- an
mons father, Edward Davis, in Can.
tralia, Mo. 'W
Miss Helen Wiley fell while ,l,v.
ing blaclman at the intermediat.
grade school grounds "Wednesday
breaking her collar bone Some =;
the players had caught her, and IN
some unaccountable manner she won,
tumbling on, with serious results
Mrs. John Hoover, Of Lamont IN
who has undergone an operation for
tumor at the st. Joseph's hospital a.
Keokuk, is convalescing nicely. Her
mother, Mrs. ]. N. Morris, and sister
Mrs. Gay Egbers. have been at he,
bedside at intervals, during her III.
ness.
Miss Ethel Elsberry and Mis-,
Villa Nelson were Quincy shoppers
Thursday.
The following is a partial list o,
men selected for military service. a,
posted by the local exemption board
Of Hancock county, on October 18th,
1917:
Baird Layton Byler LaHarpe,
Levi 3. Balmer, Nauvoo.
Charles Walter Staff. Lorraine.
Daniel Enoch Martin, Pontoosuc
ROLAND John Rucker, Carthage.
John Clark, Basco.
Carl Arthur Woolbrink, Suffer.
Enoch Starr, Nauvoo.
George Griffiths, Carthage, r. 4.
Elmer Everett Hageman, Adrian.
Caples Porter Jenkins, Suffer-
Elmer Wilhelm Woolbring, Suffer,
Virgil c. Miller, Warsaw.
Fred Habel, West Point.
Everett r. Merideth, Augusta.
George c.. Kraushaar, Warsaw.
Hampton Harsden Kishpaugh, Car
thage.
William Benhart Tammen, Basco
Lloyd J. Choate, Hamilton.
William Mckinley Mecum, Bowen
Frederick Urban Logan, Dallaa
City.
Poland Clarence, Martin, Warsaw.
Frank Lionberger, Colusa.
James Reed Johnson, Warsaw.
Thane Dickinson, Carthage.
George Bergmier, Jr., Nauvoo.
John Duffie, Carthage, R. R. g.
Farrell George Sharrow, Carthage,
r. A.
Maurice Marcus Mcbride, Colusa,
William Elsie Kelley, Hamilton.
James Woodbridge, Augusta
William r. Morrison, Hamilton.
Milo Franklin McClintock, Denver,
William Harrison Davis, PontoosuG
John Peter Dickwisch, Suffer.
Oliver Duffy, Mendon.
Charles Blender, Dallas City.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
REVERE. MO.
. . - . = . = = . :

Francis Blokely, carrier on route
1. has gone to Chicago to visit his
sister Mrs. Frank Blackman and fam
lily and from there to Denver, Colo.
before returning home. John Hardy
of Revere is carrying the mail nova
days.
The Old Settlers meeting was well
attended at Kahoka, Oct 8, and forty
five more soldier boys of Clark coun-
ty left that day for Camp Funston.
Kansas, and it was goodbye, brave
boys, goodbye
Albert Brotherton and family. also
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
PICKET AssAILs "suFFs."
Freed From Workhouse, She Says
They Acted Like Maniacs.


Baltimore Despatch to New YORK
Sun: Branding her fellow pickets
as revolutionists and anarchists, Mrs.
Mark Jackson, Baltimore suffrage
picket. who was released from DC
coquan workhouse under bond after
serving three days of her sentence,
today denied charges that the pickets
were kept on starvation diet, were
served tainted meat and subjected
to dangerously insanitary conditions,
and said that any difficulties the suffs
encountered in Occoquan were due
entirely to bad behavior on their
part.
Mrs. Jackson further alleges that
when she expostulated with her fell
low prisoners for their practice OF
breaking every rule of the institu-
ton, she was viciously attacked by
five of them, was struck, had her hair
pulled and only escaped from her as
sailants when a colored woman serV-
ing a sentence ran to one of the Of
ficials of the institution for assist
ance.
i From the very moment we entered
| the institution my colleagues were a
disorganizing element said Mrs.
Jackson "They began by objecting
| to the prison clothes. And let me
say that the clothes given us were
clean. and comfortable.
"The rule of silence was enforced
in the dining room. My colleagues
not only talked at meals but when
they were prevented from talking
they hummed. Far from being kept
awake at night by the cries of the
other prisoners, the only noise that
was to be heard in our dormitory was
the riot made by my colleagues, who
called out to one another continually
and talked until well into the night
in defiance Of dormitory rules. They
acted like little girls at boarding
school, except that their misbehayior
was consciously pernicious. They
did thousand and one things to an
noy the matron, and some of the
things they did will not bear repeti-
ton ! could not stand it.
"They spent their time talking
not suffrage, but anarchy pure and
simple. l said to them: You are not
against the political injustice under
which we labor in your frame OF
mind; you are against law and or
der and right and decency ITSELF
1t was then that they attacked me-"
Mrs Jackson declared the food
which was served to her at Occoquan
was clean and the meat excellent and
we'll cooked. Mrs. Jackson told of an
instance in which one Of her col,
leagues turned loose with a volley of
profanity when she protested against
the constant breaking of the institu-
tion5s rules.
But do not think that / was the
only Suffrage picket who was releas-
ed for refusing to countenance such
behavior There were others, though
the National Women's party head
quarters has kept it as quiet as pos
sible | believe in the cause of the
pickets still, but I cannot identify
myself with the group of fanatics
which has the administration of their
cause. My memories of the three
days spent in Occoquan are horrible
to me, not for any hardship / had to
to endure, but because of the reve-
lation of the kind of women with
whom have been working.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08

Lord Leverhulme. head of the larg,
est soap manufacturing concern in
England and one of the largest en-
ployers of labor, has declared he ia.
vors a six hour day after the war.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-10-08
Overcrowded Cars

Overcrowded Cars.
To the Editor of The Gate City:
AS one of the patrons of the War
saw interurban cars l want to pro-
test against the overcrowding of the
cars. Sunday on the 2:3O trip the
regular car was crowded, all the
seats being occupied, and the extra
car was two-thirds full; and when
they got to Hamilton they crowded
all the passengers in the one car, so
that many had to stand all the way
to Warsaw, while on the return at
4:35 they had only the one car and
the conductor registered SO passeu-
gers, while some were overlooked
and the car had at least 100 people
on it. Isn't there law which will
compel the Electric company to put
on enough cars to carry all passen-
gers and give each one a seat? They
herd passengers in cars like cattle,
without regard for their comfort.
This has happened a number of
times. and should be stopped.
SAFETY FIRST.
Keokuk, Iowa, Oct. s. 1917.