Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-23
ed Amount Of Wool Used in Newest Costumes

Women who have such costumes declare
that they VIII wear these skirts with
corselet blouses OF soutached silk and
satin I'm the spring. thereby saving cot
| ton for the government.
Hats made of worsted have already
been replaced by those of satin and
velvet
Entire coat suits made OF worstsd
have narrow bias fiounces mounted on
a taffeta or satin foundation. The short
! Jacket which goes with these skirts IL
so heavily trimmed with fur and has
such a wide waistcoat OF satin or mate
/ lasse that il can be considered a bit OF
cafnoufage
One Of the very smart gowns made
for a bridal trouSseau. which used up
less than four and a half yards of thin
WOODEN material. had two bias fiounces
across a taffeta skirt with a deep hem
OF peitrY. and blouse Of embroidered
satin with wristiets Of peltry, over
which was a coatee OF the wool with
wide Chinese sleeves--the only bit OF
lextrayagance--edge with peltry and
lined with colored satin There was
sailor collar of peltry and Japanese
bow of satin pulled through two loops
/ in the back OF the coat. to fare from
the waist line.
There is anotherscoat suit in which
less than four yards of wool have been
used The skirt is narrow and slim. and
extends into a loose corsiet enect over
the waist TO the bust. Above that IL q
chiffon yoke with long sleeves In the
same color. Inc cGt2Way kOpCDht, wHlIu
drops below the knees, Is loosely hung
from the shoulders and made OF duil
green velveteen with an immense cape
collar of peltry held closely about the
neck with n scarf of yelveteen.
As a bit of trickery, to show that the
coat and skirt are intended to go to-
| gether odd bits of the wool that was
| left from the cutting of the skirt have
been stretched across the hip line of
! the jacket in the form of loose pockets
These are brilliantly lined and held IN
place with fur button
Undoubtedly. IT is dangerous to estab-
fish the fashion for the building OF
gowns from odds and ends OF fabric.
/ Women delight m such piecework. Give
them the reins and they find disaster.
/ Yet the fact must be faced that fashion
will instantly see the advisability of
using up all tho small bits Of material
left in the market. when It Is necessary
of all fabrics, as well az wool alone.
/ II this fashion comes to dominate the
output of clothes there must DO propa-
ganda among women to ask them TO pc
texceedingly careful and to study well
the combination OF fabrics and COL
ors before they embark on the building
of such clothes at home.
| The French dreSsmakers have SHOWN
US the way in the last two years IN
putting together odd bits of material
in order to accomplish good-iooking
I gown. If we study their methods we
may come out all right. They take one
piece of satin. wrinkle IL about the
waist, drop it in a straight line toward
4 the ankle and finish the length out with
silk fringe and over this slim sheath
they take another width OF satin, bring
it about the hips on bias line from the
back and let it fall to the fringe at the
Y ankle line The third fabric Is tuii0s
and il builds up the top of the bodies
and resolves itself into swinging cape
which half covers the arms and hides
the narrowness of the satin skirt at the
back Embroidered colored roses are
put in a formal design at the top ana
bottom of this satin frock, and 1t IL 9
. good wager that only the designer could
, show YOU the trickery in the gown. II
was built from three pieces OF lett
! over fabric.
Another gown was built up OF veives
. and georgette crepe. The velvet was
CONSTRUCTED like an overskfrt, with q
wide. wrinkled girdle and two bretellea
that held in place a huge collar OF fur.
A strip of the velvet was dropped from
5 the girdle to the foot line of the georg.
cite skirt and embroidered and fringed
, to give it an air of luxury.
i Everything can be accomplished IN
{ the conservation of fabric, IL women
: will lend their hearts and brains TO II
!. Let the work start today.