davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-07-01

that is of poise and serenity and calm and that sta.
blllty which call character.
On this page displayed three specimens of
gowns deserving the term The middle one you
see, has the essentials of long, straight lines The
fabrics from which it is fashioned trails gracefully
behind the wearer. The winglikc draperics at
fachcd to bracelet on arm, and to ring on
tho other hand, deepen the impression made by
the gown
The first example is Of dignity expressed
through magnifccnce But the other specimen of
Copyright. 1917 nv tho st
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-07-01

the dignity dress which you this page. is
simple both in line and texture. The lesson of
the page is that dignity may be denoted by SIM
pcity or by magniiccnce.
Study these models and you will see that they
equal each other in dignity. Each seems to express
ouwardly the inward life of the wearer which is
one of the aims Of dress. They indicate life that
has calm centre The dainty dancing gowns, with
their bouffant skirts evidence of an inward tu-
multi Of pleasure and gayety Carrying this reason
ing to its logical end should say that the dress
expresses the soul. 1t is, it were the mouthpiece
of the spirit Through it the speaks clearly,
inteligibly, Enthusiastically to the world.
If you wish to choose dignity gown look first to
its lines. They may not be the spreading lines of
crinoline Those ante beum bellies who are. being
brought to the stage by the illusions of dress had
not dignity, but coquetry No woman can be aught
but firatous in billowy attire.
Crcpcs and chiffons, sains or mohars, may achieve
the effect, provided the lines the long, straight
ones Of dignity. Broadcloth is regarded as the
queeny fabric, yet have seen woman look regal
in cotton crepe. The dignity dress, should say, is
made up one-half of woman one-half Of line.
npany Rights Reserved
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-07-01

r ADY DUFF-GORDON, the
famous Lucille" OF London. and
- foremost creator OF fashions in
the world. writes each week the fash
ion article for this newspaper, present
ing all that is newest and best in styles
for welI-dressed women.
Lady Duf-Gordon's Paris estab-
6shment brings her into close touch
with that centre Of fashion.
Lady Duf-Gordon's American
establishments are at Nos. 81 and 80
West Fifty-sevcnth street. New York.
and No. 400 Lake Shore Drive,
Chicago.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-07-01
By Lady Duff Gordon.

women there are precious little It'd bits Of human
n.y. who should never dignity dresses because
they are weighted down, and their personality is
all but extinguished, by such attire
Dignity gowns may be simple very ornate But
always tney convey the characteristic of dignity
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

who baselys seek to save a penny here
and there because wooden stuffs are
costing them more h usual. n
Of these petty savings Is the substitu-
ton Of cheap thread for sewing silk
in thelseams and finishing stitches of
tailored garments. The
may not save more than three cents
on a whole suit, but alas for the pur-
chaser thereof. who finds u too late
labout the cheap thread, when her
smartly cut skirt Fuckers at the seams
and faded out. stitches spoil cuffs and
revers on her oat
Separate Skirts and Coats.
The smartest Of the new skirts are
pleated, sometimes in side or box
pleats running all h way around
sometimes in group pleatings. There
with elaborate blouses, and such skirts
are most often draped below the hips.
Separate coats show the straight sill
houette, but they have a loose, easy
suggestion Of comfort and warmth
Belts, pockets and large scarf-collars
make them picturesque in style. The
most exclusive models are dark or
neutral in color.
Pleated Skirts are Fashionable.
New tailored skirts are side or box
pleated all around; or show pleats in
\ groups, ~lteTHdtln WILL pam paitOlS
but all skirts hang in very straight
lines and fall just over the top Of the
new buttoned walking boot, which Is
seven Inches high instead Of very tall
like last seasons boot Over these
straight-hanging pleated skirts, the
new tailored Jackets, coming at least
to the knee-often almost to the skirt
hem-give a very digniied effect. For
woman's dress is dignif1ed now, no
coquettish or picturesque, as BELTS the
seriousness ,of wartime.
Separate skirts for wear with pref
ty blouses have draperies at the side.
below the hip, but these ~draperies are
made to conform to the prevailing
straight lines of the silhouette. Such
skirts are Of satin orsoft silk, and
there are particularly smart new mod
els ofSYelvet in tartan plaid patterns.
,IPlaids are much favored In Paris Just
now and some of h patterns are very
(Continued on Page 80
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

save shoe leather for the soldiers, Of
course!) and with the lowered boot
top. very short skirted tailleurs would
have been more ludicrous than digni-
fed.
Combinations of Fabrics.
Since all wool fabrics are more Or
less, scarce and precious now, Paris
puts one or two kinds in each tailored
suit; thus making all materials "go
further" Jenny is using much gray
wool jersey with gray rabbit fur
trimming this season. Wool velour,
plaid cheviot, plain cheviot, mohair,
homespun, silk plush and serge--if
one can afford it-are all fashionable
for, autumn %tailleurs. Martial ct Ar
mand have brought out a stunning
suit in pr%une-colored silk plush. and
Worth is using satin and wool mate
lasse in formal afternoon costumes.
Economy Of Line and Material.
Paris advises simple lines because
war time has put a premium on wool
fabrics and woman's appearance must
mot suggest extravaganza in dress; but
in shopping for autumn raiment one
should watch for petty economies in
material on the part Of manufacturers
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

OF course-and OF line-but it. is en-
phatically pleasing, not only to the OBJ
server, but also no doubt to the made
ver-by-sveltline stout woman who
finds herself as .snar and gracefully
proportional a $ her ~long-envied thin
sister.
Goats and Skins Both Longer.
Some of. the new tailored suits show
coats almost to the edge-.nfsthe skirt
and the majority ~of<1node1sNh ave coats
to theTknee: Skirts are about five
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

or sloping, but fiat the bust must be.
and fat the back-from shoulder to
hips. Some women seem to believe
their backs are beautifully fat If they
walk erectly and, there is no outward
curve between nape of neck and waist
line; but it is the inward curve be-
tween shoulder blade and hips that
Fashion is most concerned about,
Flatness must be here-or the siihou-
cite is all awrong!7
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

inches from the ground. and with the
long coats these longer skirts suggest
dignity and conservative style, an
contrast with the bold and
saucy tailleur Of past aso with its
skirt and fitted Jacket.
faring at the hip. Fortunate 1t vas
that skirts came down in time; for
Uncle Sam has decreed that the but
toned walking boot for fall shall be
not more than eve inches high >(to
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17
DIGNITY MARKS NEW TA1nLEURs
Have a Large Waistline and Be Mod
;ish Nevertheless-New Suits Simple
In Style and Straight in Silhouette
Waistcoats and Pockets - Skirts
Pleated and Draped. :

Be as slender as you can. commands
Fashion this fall; but however nature
has made you, show a straight. un-
curved silhouette. And the straight
silhouette must be straight from a
side view as we'll as from a front or
back view. Many women manage ITO
look straight 4up-an-down8 by wearing
loose, low-belted Bodies that.ado not
reveal h~iplinesSiand remain b1issfully
ignorant thatg3from a side, view, re.
dundant curves r deplorably evi:
dent. The Shoulder line may be square
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

Autumn suit of mannish wool fabric
showing slim. straight lines, and
slightly taper1ng skirt of the new
mode. The silk stitched cuff and con
vertible yoke collar are notable fea-
lures.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

In maise wool Jersey, soutache-
trimmed and touched with kolinsky;
and with sailor hat of black velvet,
and patent leather pumps with but
toned spats, she is ready for a formal
occasion.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17
Slender lines for Stout Figures.

Slender lines o Stout Figures.
So cleverly are the new tailleurs
cut that this admirable, fiat silhouette
proportions who might naturally be
expected to show curves here and
there. But for these curves one looks
inssEvatin. Since the sveltlinei ideal be-
gan to@make itself felt In clothes for
stout women-behold there seem to
be no stout women. It is a trick to cut
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

A serge and sealslin snit following
the sveltline ideal that achieves a
slender effect even over a stout fig
ure. The pleated skirt just covers the
top Of buttoned walking boots in the
new seven-inch height. I'd
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-09-17

No doubt about pockets holding
their own. Observe these-of mO1e-
skin. And the bell cuffs are decidedly
newt >. With the moleskin goes gray
wool velour, gray-embroidered.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15
The Daily Story
! Breach Of DiseipIine-E3y James Brainard.

1t has been said That he the camps
Tor the drilling Of officers for the
army for the great world war the OBJ
soIete In military science has been
discarded and the men are drilled 70
trench warfare. including grenade
throwing the wearing OF gas masks
and all such devices Of modern war
fare There is one fort where recruits
were drilled which can harlr be SAID
so have fulfilled these conditions. That
is Fort A. located in the west
Fort A. had been turned over 70
the army as station for The dtlltgE
of recruits for the great world Wal.
The commandment Colonel Whitllesey.
an officer of the regular army who
had grown gray ia the service and
had added with each year something
to his stock of army discipline treated
newcomers and OLD corners alike,
ezacting from each the same rigid OBJ
servance Of attention to the army
regulations.
There must he guard mounting iH
the morning dress parade in tae att
ern0on tattoo iu the evening and taps
a bedtime The soldiers were drilled
to march, countermarch load and
fire in accordance with the manual
of arms. and otherwise conform TO
customs the colonel had learned some
fifty years before at West Point.
What use the men were IN make of
these observaHces in tbe trenches iu
France probably the colonel had not
considered. Soldiers had been pre-
pared for war by being thus drilled
from time immeuoriai and it bad
never occurred to the colonel rhal ANS
other way Of drilling them would
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

Mr.. LLOYD Georges announcement
that all the Irish parties have agreed
20 the governments plan for 8 home
rule convention re1ews tie hope of
its success All least nothing is now
left undone that should favor 2 work
able program Even Cha Sim F'ci8ers
have seen the folly of blocking amy
plan that makes settlement possible.
and the Jlstermen ARE willing To dis
cusS ancient differences vita rhelr
Catholic brethren,
The convention members are net
10 be elected by district ms iortties
with miuorities left unrepg
That the Redmondites are ~ have no
more members than the irish Union
list Alliance OF the Sim Eeia proves
their generous desire fer am accom-
mediation Ten Irish Representative
peers ana IS members named by the
government will emphasize The Eagt
apparent To all uor blinded hy pas
sion that geography no less gIaD
history forbids full independence
Though the members OF the eou-
vention will speak for greatly EaryiuE
numbers Of the Irish people. taeg Will
speak for all localities, al interests
and ali factions. and amy Startstician
can compute their relative following
AZ the polls
As allies OF the people Of Great
Britain and ireland, the people % the
United States without Improperly
may ardently hope that the age-long
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15
Wheat Prospects.

Tae land lis likely to yield about six
teen million bushels more of wheat
rals year JEau were harvested i'm the
meaaer year 1876 Nevertheless the
crop threatens to fail much further be-
sHruass t6e 1916 crop 1t wiz lack
I606a9.o09 bushels OF reaching the
average. The Improvement on last
years deficiency IS only about nine
per cent Tai7 means that added to
fhe shortage OF last year the country
ana countries dependent on It must
ROW prepare 30 face g. second shortage
almost equally great
So much for the worst. The great
palliative is the realization that "a good
season would have been a greater
calamity. bv reason Of the food il
would have provided the Germans
Their need is much greater than
Americas or leT allies. IT would be
700 much to hope for SO exceptional
thing as q season of abundance asre
and Or poor crops Ia Germany. Amer
ica ls nluahed SO that Germany may
be crushed
AS Tor the lack of wheat iu prospect
Il has already been discounted 10
very great extent SO far as prices are
ID the initial failure Of the winter
wheat and used its chance 20 recoup
BIZ extra planting a potatoes and ath-
er garden crops. Despite Che June T
crop report. which was To be expected,
The country is better OF for food out
look than II was t7F0 months ago.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15
Talking About Holland.

The report that The neutrality Of the
Netherlands and the possibility of q
British invasion through that country
are current themes Of newspaper dis
cusslon in Germany would be Ia no
wise important If the history Of Bel
GUM did NOT remind IA of what Prus-
sian sayagegy Is capable. 1t is con
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15


Mary had "a HrtIa ff7,h
Her Eoss VA. ...s.5s'e. rs -,.-....
And yrhar asa a-nsges a. -. uA..--.
She nela bar sI-5rf 5Fqe+ 80
IT'S "a wise man in +f,s ,laz.. ..e 4-s,,l-
priras IF fooasr4rfs NET 80 - . - -
land q harrb fn tho .o,,r,,fss..-,- ~.
usr+r,,ar+ ~ Tho sr--,- yt-t--. A..
l.-,,.,r,sss..-,. ~. -,..lT 49,.
NJ gafrs,e ~ ~ - 80 81
-r-E7r, ---..ur..t.-.- -l..-.-.-...
r,e.51 - i5as oeeu
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

The Socialist party has expelled
Charles Edward Russell from its
ranks. This is the penalty for His haY-
fng placed his Amerieauism above his
socialism
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

Tae kaiser has another headache on
the way IT is estimated in Washing
t0n today that the $4,000 600 goo Lib
erty loan viii be oversubsCribed $780,
coo g00
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

Seeking Drugs-What IS taken as
an attempted robbery Ply erazed
dope heud- or feuaz. I'm the hope d
securing morphine was discovered
bT Dr. o. c. Rogers, North Putnam
building. L0+1a Brady street. who re-
ported that an attempt had been made
to enter mis- private office where
drugs are kept The outer office was
broken into and an attempt made 70
jimmy the inner door
sell sI.250,000 Bouds-T last aaz
and the final drive in tae Liberty
bond sale in Davenport showed that
the patriots of the city and county
have given approximately Sc 25Q 0o0 10
the support Of the government Nearlz
all of yesterdays subsorsp came
in without solicitation as practically
ali of the members of the Liberty }caH
committee were attending the annual
convention of the Iowa Bankers as
ISOLATION i'm Des 1Ioiues-
Pleads TO Charge Perry Dalaaru.
arrested by the police in a raid upon
the Hotel Leonard pleaded guilty 90
a state charge Of maintaining q liquor
nuisance when arraigued before Judge
NJ. + Donegan in the Scott county
court He was fined $500 and costs
He arranged to pay the fine Claude
Van Arsdaie. who was arrested fu
company with DaIgarn. has mel midi
Gated whether he viii plead to
county attorney information or rot.
Wife ForgiYes Husband "A simple
case OF assault and battery developed
yesterday out of the King family row
Of last Sunday morning featured b.
an inspired reporter ON an evening
contemporary as containing elements
of a mysterious murder committed fu
ST. Louis along with CHASTITY details
aneut razors. shOtguns and attempts
to behead seven little. innocent chit
drea, with all Indications pointing 10
The fact that the assault charges VIII
never be pressed. Despite a badly
bruised eve and somewhat battered
features Mrs. a. J. King. better
known in Davenport and Rockingham,
as Mrs Jack Lee admitted chat she
still loves her husband II lowe that
man better than my own life. she
said He is The father OF ms 10 chill
dren. ( stiu love him with all his
drinking and degrading talk. his es-
forts 60 force me to lead life Of
shame and his abuse and neglect
have loved that man as never loved
another
Granted Increase Davenport and
Mercy hospitals have been granted a
temporary increase in rates for the
care Of county patients bv the county
board meeting as a committee Of the
whole. according To an announcement
made by Supervisor Charles Scatck.
The new rates will become effective On
July l. The hospitals recently pets
toned The board to grant an Increase
on the ground that medicine. dress
ing and attendant expenses have iu-
creased since the war The new
rate is an increase from 81 10 sI75
. day for the care Of patients and
from $3.50 to IS for surgical dress
ings.
Consider Finance Reduction Of ex-
penses and addition Of resources were
the topics Of discussion at a closed
meeting Of the city council
Members Of the council and afayor
Berwald were present. AS a means Of
adding revenue. the mayor protested
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15
ca0RDg AN6
d L S c o r ID s

# Is ~ IN ~ II
IE the crush Of war news crowdinE
the cables only few Tines squeezed
through concerning the death Of Ed
Guard lie Reske. the greatest operate
hero OF his day Since his retirement
from the stage the heights Of artistry
which he brought 10 The roles Of King
Mark ina Tristan ana Isolde and
Hagen il sG0etterdae mmeruug have
not been equaled by another voice
IRWIN Cobb has discov cred that the
men who make moving pictures care
little for Your story Sc long as Won
possess a public reputation that tn-
sures pulling power at the box office.
Furthermore they have q heartless
habit Of revising a yarn so that it is al
most impossible for an author TO rec
ognize il as tha child Of his brain
when he sees its screen interpreta
ton Cobb has found while there
are some hiea-miuded men engaged
I'm the production OF the silent play
they are decidedly i'm the minority
bat that their presence and the sue
cess that is attending their undertak-
inEs afford hope for the permanency
amusement. Despite that CDbbs writ
fngs are known to both continents.
he admits that he was forced To go
through q long siege of Disbursements
with producers before he could reach
terms with them Cobb is authority
for the assertion that most Of the
stories Of fabulous salaries paid movie
. stars are pure bunk. He says man
ayers of the highest press-ag euted fa-
vorites have told him SO.
ALEXANDER Eerenakv. Russia
r,-=r-4s+r. -f g-a~ ana +rflszr one If the
rsge+ trano,-art far+ors 81 her das-
t5r.,- 81. = r,q,-, x,.{.,. ssz,.sr smiles. The
sr,la-,f,..4, ...,,,+,-75ssfr., 744ghf ~ take
INN. s7re7 r,fs-5,- SOC ltIe.y1a-- oman
i'm -0rat r55s1-+ loosen him nm and
zaznzra = raaffna a~nrng his fellow
..-,s-rqrf--r7a-e rhaf there ia VET home A
man Win = rraarh nav win bur he
always has the anpasranee OF one
ffaf.5no q Iaslre hattie
,-.>.,- 49, -..-......4. --. ~. .--.. .,,.
r,...,7 49, a. ~ ~. -,-,.-asr
10
80
-. 49, - .-. e.-7.1 z.-
-le &e-.l- i- "tt-S5 ne Laf Gu 11- 1.'7
roe VII seem =aail-tlsze compared ~
III - .t.--l,-,
VINO WIZ aAee. ans 7t<I7 Oh .Ha ge71-
me S,L1s ~ l2l4s ...5s-4l 4eel1 1t PI9p-
10y -.-.-.
~ 1l.a- --s' 10y { t
oe csc sS 5-u ---z--' me s :,
f9- A-a'51' 20 aoso-l-otl-1a.
4 adv eaFrz FsEsF frF
F55at1'N declares taaf one clSaret VIII
Kill 3 cat hEE might keen this ira
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

Consider Finance Reduction Of ex-
penses and addition Of resources were
the topics Of discussion at a closed
meeting o. the city council
Members Of the council and sfsvor
Rerwald we're present. AS d means Of
adding revenue. the mayor protested
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

rs the crush Of war news crowdinE
the cables only few lines squeezed
through concerning the death of Ed
Guard de Rsske, the greatest operate
hero OF his day. Since his retirement
from The stage the heights Of artistry
which he brought 10 the roles Of King
Mark ia Tristan ana Isolde and
Hagen il Goetterdaammerung have
not been equaled by another voice.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1917-06-15

ALEXANDER Eerensks., Russia.
minister Of war and today one Of the
most important factors in her des-
Tiny. is d man who never smiles, The
American commission ought to take
him some night 40 see Charley Chap
lin. That might loosen him up and
inspire a feeling among his fellow
o8un1rymen that there is yet hope. 8
man with . crouch NAV win. but he
always has the appearance OF one
lighting q losing battle
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1917-07-11
COUNTY PRISONERS
TO WORK ON ROADS
Sheriff Hastings Will Send Ten Men
From the Jail This Morning
To HELD Pave Pike.

sheriff Howard Hastings today VIII
send ten prisoners from the count!
iail TO Fulton 20 work on IN" foad
improvement hat il bcin" mace there.
The prisoners will work IOr a couple
OF days under lhr direction Of Nv"
deputy Shcriffs. and if contractors
Slringrr & Springer find the prison
labor experiment to br satisfactory
couple Of special guards will be en-.
ploy"d 10 have charge Of the ROAD
gang.
The road paving through Fulton
has been delayed considerably by IA"
shortage IF labor S"vtiHl days ago
a delegation representing tho ONO
Valley Automobile club appeared be-
fore the commissioners and asked
thar prisoners. he sent our 10 work
on The roads. The commissioners
Yesterday Compl"l"i arrangements
with Sheriff Hastings To send fore"
of prisoners out IN help pave me
road. Overall and jacket suits wrr"
purchased for zach prisoner.
Deputy ShrrffS Fred Frazier and
Earl Prttirnrd will have charge or
The road gang.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1917-07-11
Have Helped to Save
Considerable Tin Plate
Manufacturers Of Non-Perishnble Pro.
ducts Now Use Paper and
Wooden Containers.

Some months aE" III" War and NCri-
cultural departments: requested manu-
f;t'iur"rS ui various: urn'IurlS tu mimi
nair The us" uT tin rnIiunS and Guns aS
much lS pnSSihI,. tn r"dur" the rouSunp-
iinu TT lin platr during tn" war. These
manufacturers complied with !h" re-
quest. states hull'tlu ISSUED by til"
federal departments r"""iNrd AT IN
Whr"lImG commercial NS$"riail ION.
The communication states. THAT by ""r-
tain manufacturers packing their non
jrrIShi.l,l" products in other KIND of cor
tanners aud cartons than tin that il has
permitted nurr I'm Ia br used Tor p' riSh-
;hl" ur"iIiri%. II pniniS "ut If they con-
tinur To '"I;;ily with IN" request There
will iikrly H.. un material ~rHrritY al Tin
III This country FOR preserving fruit and
vegetables.
Tho huIlrt!m in giving citations "f the
elimination a.; tin cartons used by hum
rlrrdS OF manufacturers states that here
tnfnrr marShma ll"w&. salt aud any other
NON -r"riShahl' prurluri% were put IN in
Tin cartons which ar" 'rnw packed in
w0,,h ~ l:tStrhoard containers.