Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-02-14
BY M'LISS


II the United States had a king or
prince or two the custom tailors of the land
would be as rich head walters or muni.
tions manufacturers. IL the custom taiors
could suffix the names on their business
pasteboards with the magic phrase. by
appointment II. NJ. the King" or ''Taiors
to II. r. II. the Prince of Wales" they
could have sugar three times "A day in
their coffee and burn coal for a pastime.
But seeing that this is only the land
Of the free and the home of the brave,
and the only kings we have are steal kings.
custom tailors. If they are to keep happy
and well fed. will just have to advertise.
Sapient words on the subject of keeping
up with the ready mades"-the arch
enemies of the custom m-mades"--were
handed out in an address made today at the
National Association of Merchant Tailors
OF America by W. j. f. Daley repre-
sentative OF n New York advertising agency.
Americans as a class" he said tersely.
while correct talors, some In somber
morning suits (braided cutaways you
know, and gray-striped panties, with spats
to match) and others in nobby Norfolks,
with flannel trousers contrasting sportively,
drank in his words are there on the snob
stufr not on the sob stuff, as we have been
led to believe. You need king or two.
play on the snobbery. The man who
has drawing made OF smart young lad
wearing his brand of twelve-and-a-half-
cent collar at the horse show sells that
collar
Establish standard of prices to which
the ready-mades cannot reach. Use no
cloth in your suits which does not cost at
least, let us say, 81 a yard.
Forget the style. Put all your atten-
tion in the cloth and see IL you can't get
q man TO change his suit every day.
man ought to change his suit as often as
he changes his shirt. Impress this on
the public"
But" some one suggested to Mr.. Daley
afterward. shirts are cheaper than suits"
Mr.. Daley, however was adamant.
Make 'em change" he reiterated.
In the demonstration room there are male
clothes some of which seem to have sue
cumbed to the feminine influence. and which
n worn either on land or on sea would be
a signal for the coming out of the re-
serves.
There are corsets for obese gentlemen
who fancy nipped-in waist. There is a
cape-but how could this have been born
In Pittsburgh 1t is as somber as an Italian
villains frown. 1t breathes the romance OF
a Florentine alley: of a Dumas novel. II
Is the evening wear. Correct" sayeth its
maker.
Boston" town is there with a royal pur-
pie vest that secretes two rubber append
ages, not for the purpose of keeping the
vestee down. as you first suspect in your ig-
norance, but as it's creator proudly an
nounces. for the purpose of eliminating the
bourgeois suspendee the unsatisfactory belt.
"if a woman can keep her stockings up"
but this is heretical imitation.
PURPLE VEST WITH SPRINGS
The purple vest with its hidden springs,
is cloaked by white jacket fashioned of
Panama cloth, and of modified cutaway pro-
portions.
For summer street wear" the demon
strator informs you bandly. and you are
reminded OF the Gilbert strain:
If you walk down Picadily with a
poppy or a lily
In your medieval hand,
Why, folks will say, you go your
mystic way,
If this young man expresses himself in
terms too deep for me,
Why what singularly deep young
man this deep young man must be.
Sartorialy the Boston tailor eX-
pressed himself In deep terms, deep purple.
In comprehensive and more or less
technical speech on The Manufacture of
Woolens." II. II, Bosworth, president of
the Cloth Manufacturers Association of
Philadelphia, reviewed the history of the
woolen industry in America and predicted
Increased prosperity for the tailors in the
event of a war.