davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

TO convention In order to keep the
critics from barking and arguing.
The Trench Mufficr.
One OF .he important features OF the
new fashions Is the great muffler
worn by all the soldiers In the
trenches, thousands OF which are
made by the women over here for the
war relief ociations. These ne"
neckpieces are not knitted. They are
made of velvet, duvetyn or fur. AS
rule. they match the material or the
coat. and they are lined with gay
color to make them becoming TO the
skin.
Drecoll started to make this kind Of
collar in the early spring, ana II
proved quite success on his coats.
Today. every designer in Paris Is
making the same kind OF collar. and
therefore, the conventional turnover
neckpiece with reveres will be auan-
doned
The average American woman looks
very well indeed in coat that is
buttoned to the neck with a collar
that flares above the chin to the ears.
The incoming of this fashion plus the
substitution OF the narrow for the
moderately wide skirt, will undoubt-
edly cause a most vital and far reach
ing adjustment OF ones costumery.
II Is not easy to arrange the new coat
fastening out of the coats we have
been wearing, but the addition of the
trench muffler with its long ends that
hang in front. may be n convenient
link between the old and the new.
The Revival of Velour.
The mannlsh suitings which we have
worn In the street for several years
will give way To velour and duvetyn.
These fabrics were shown last Febru-
airy by Cheruit, Doucet, Beer and
Bernard, but the American womei.
wore very few suits made of any,nnh
so soft and pliable. This season. 1,
looks as tho suits will be made of
nothing else.
The colors chosen are deep REQ,
American blue, dun slate gray, cur
rant red and tobacco brown. The
latter color will be unusually popular.
Women will be glad TO welcome it,
and yet. It. Is exceedingly dangerous.
There are certain shades of BROW,
that make "a woman look sallow,
wrinkled and dun of eye, The bril-
liant copper browns. In velvet anu
sotin. with their CLINT of gold and
brass, are unusually striking. but they
are rarely seen in wooden cloths.
1t looks as tho the very smart
woman will be dressed in a suit OF
tobacco brown velour on the street
in preference to the blue to which
she has adhered so steadfastly for ten
years. This color lends itself wen u
the collar and bands of sealskin which
are pitched over the surface of clothes
by the French designers. as tho peltry
were the cheapest ornament in the
| world.
1t may be that this same generosity
Will spell disaster to many costumes.
| Not every woman can wear suit with
| splashes of fur over it's surface. Her
| figure loses It's lines. her attitude loses
| its dignity. and she looks as tho the
| trunks In the attic had too great a
| temptation for her and her cress-
, maker had been told to put tOgetnei
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

be worked out thru the medium of
French art.
All the Chinese colors are in fashion,
such as yellow, that queer gray blue,
jade green and also white trimmed
with brilliant red.
Lanvin. Poiret and others have
taken up the Slavic influences in dress
with exceeding enthusiasm and have
worked them out with remarkable re-
suits.
When the average person thinks of
Slavic clothes, IL Is in connection with
Russian headdresses and blouses. high,
red boots and fur bands; Dut there Is
world of untouched material in
Slavic dress that Is worth ferreting
out. and 1t Is only natural that such
designers as Lanvin. should be able
to get at the core of the costumery of
these countries and make capital out
of 1t. In Rumania, Serbia, Monte
negro and among the JusOslavs, there
are superb color schemes, splendid
embroideries daring and clashing, but
harmonious Juxtapositions of gay
ColorS.
Those Narrow Skirts.
The decree for q narrow skirt was
actually made last spring. but none
paid heed to IL. Women insisted upon
keeping the five-yard width, in gath
ering the fullness to the belt. and in
adding flounces and bands Of trim
ming above the hem. because they
liked the idea and because IL was NOT
time for the mass to change.
This time France insists upon mar
row skirts In the name of conservation
of material. That dictum appeals to
America. We are not out of the cone
modities Of life yet, but we may DO
soon. No one is very optimistic about
being able to get great deal of ma
terial. food. leather, trimmings and
cotton II this war keeps on for two
years more. Our government will
need everything II can get hold OF.
and the American women will have'tV
do without. Rest assured there will
be no complaining; but is is wise for
every woman to put he household in
| order now, so that when the time
comes. she will not fall from heaven
and needing a stern adjustment Of her
plan Of life. Better begin by wearing
narrow skirts now.
Fortunately, the alteration from
wide to slim Is easily accomplished,
and IL thousands Of skirts in this
country are to be reshaped into the
new lines, thousand seamstresses
will get work by the day. However,
one does not speak as cheerfully about
seamstresses coming to work during
this month OF September as we diu
during the month Of April, when war
was declared. The terrific readjust-
merit Of American civic life which Is
going to put women In the place 81
men as workers. will have the most
startling, vital and drastic effect on
our lives. Things will never be as
they once were. and women who got
$3.50 day for sewing will probably
! be getting three times that much In
other occupations.
There Is no disposition to keep the
fashion OF long skirts. They wer.
tried out last spring. and altho they
might have succeeded under other
conditions, there Is little chance for
them to succeed this winter.
| Skirts for the evening will sweep
the instep, and there are short trains
to add to their dignity. But skirts
for the street are skimpy little things
! that appear to be merely sop thrown
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09
GUIDO BRUNO ASKS 800, 900
Arrest for Publishing Edna, Girl
of the Streets" Brings Suit.

Guido Bruno of Brunos Garret in
Washington Square, formerly pub
Usher OF Bruno's weekly, has brought
Ia 100000 suit for alleged damages
In the supreme court against the So
ciety for the Suppression OF Vice and
John s. Sumner, its president
Mr. Bruno alleges the two defend
ants conspired to cause his arrest ita-
December for the publication and
sale OF Edna, Girl OF the Streets"
which the society said was immoral.
The grand jury dismissed the charge
last April Mr.. Bruno produced let
ter from George Bernard Shaw ridi-
culng the contention OF the society
that the book was immoral.
'lr Bruno says that since his ar
rest he has been shursed by his
'ds bounded by his creditors,
thrown into bankruptcy and deprived
ol the means of livelihood.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

" ACH steamer that comes across
the Atlantic today probably
I brings over new fashions to
this country.
The openings in Paris have finished.
Each great house has shown its COM
pliment of gowns. coats wraps ana
suits. The strain was a very great
mer, because they had to endure a
strike of all their workers which was
barely settled in time to complete the
enormous supply of clothes to which
they had invited Americas attention
Altho few of the gowns have been
shown in this country. the decisive
factors in fashion are known to the
experts. They may be summed up in
brief outline which will give women
comprehensive grasp of what they
are to expect in the next two weeks
The silhouette Is Slim.
Coats have little fullness when
they're long, and none when they're
short. They are belted in some Qua
manner by a variety of fabrics.
The line from the instep to the chin
is kept straight. Reveres have been
banished in favor of the military fast
ening suggested to Paris by the UNI.
forms of the American soldiers.
Collars are excessively high oi.
blouses, coats and one-piece frocks.
Sleeves are tight and long and often
flare to the knuckles of the hand. In
certain frocks, the Chinese bell sleeve
is used. dropping over tight under
sleeve of dyed lace, embroidery oi
satin edged at the hand with fur.
Coat suits are made of velour, du
vetyn and new quality of serge.
Afternoon frocks are made of chiffon
and panne velvet and often trimmed
with ermine. Evening gowns have /.
slight train, n narrow skirt that
reaches to the instep and a more mod
est decolletage than we have seen for
several seasons. The extreme decol-
letage will continue in gowns of cere-
mony, but IL will be fashionable u
wear a half low frock to the play, to
dinners and to a number of brilnan,
afternoon affairs.
There is strong attempt to run the
fabric of the evening gown high at
the back, to have 1t entirely cove.
the arms, and then to open Ii in a
square or delta decolletage, after the
manner of the fashions which pre-
vailed during the American Revolu-
tion. When informal evening gowns
are made after this manner, the upper
part is of transparent material, sucn
as tulle. chiffon or lace.
Dyed lace will be a feature Of the
afternoon frock. 1t will also be used
for short peplum blouses to be worn
with coat suits instead of shirtwaists
These blOuscs will as rule be .belted
in an ornate manner.
In one-pieoe frocks. long, pleated
tunics are still In fashion. They differ
from those of last spring In that they
are slashed at the sides and hang like
a pleated panel down the front and
back of the figure from waist to WITH
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09
What She RrOIre.

Reginald had become "A stretcher-
bearer in the army pay corps, and be-
fore going away to take up his duties
he asked Angelina To marry hlir.
Angelina loved him, but as she had
promised to marry millionaire the
day before she was too noble to go
back on her word, and to Reginald
she had perforce to say, No"
TIN sorry, sorry" she sobbed.
"K--kiss me once before we part my
love" and she flung herself into his
arms.
MY own,' che walled. "have
broken your hearth"
Reginald distentangled himself
with difficulty.
NO. Angelina" he said, "only my
fountain pen!"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

in a few inches Of the hem of the
skirt.
These tunics have wide belts OF
Chinese embroidery, braided velvet,
dyed lace or metallic embroidered
satin aud chiffon.
Skirts are five feet wide. This Is
not an absolute measurement of all
the hens. but II Is the accepted width
among the French houses. We will
probably alter and modify 1t to suit
our taste and our figures. Think of
the change between 1t and the four
yard skirts we've been wearing! IN
that very fact itself lies a revolution
in dress.
The Influence of China.
Jenny. as we'll as certain other
houses in France, has laid emphasis
upon the continuance OF the chinese
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09
FRANCE SENDS SKIRTS ONLY
FIVE FEET WIDE AT HEM

Directoire rivals bring in the
high collar, long, tight
sleeves, waistband shorter
in front than in back and
the slim redingote opening
over a narrow skirt of an
other color. Dinner gowns
are draped high at the back
and over the arms to the
wrists, with tr; nsrarent fab
rics-Unusual Slavic effects
in one-piece frocks-Velour
is the leading material for
the street.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

influences in fashions. 1t Is difficult
to describe the various ways in which
the dress makers incorporate the
Chinese ideas In modern clothes, but
IL is well to know that whatever one
can find to adopt In this country, viii
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

. ACH steamer that comes across
the Atlantic today probably
brings over new fashions 70
this country.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

ALICE NELSON
American soprano who has endeared herself and her
that she is called Our Own Alice" April H.
OSCAR SEAGIIE
The baritone from the south great singer and who
sings Plantation Melodies only Son of the South
sing them. February IA.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

western states. but is not as large as
any Of the American states. 1t is not
all fertile land. however. but is noun
tain and valley with the intervening
sections of farm land, towns and VII
lagos. all maintaining the old-time
feudal loyalty to the lord OF the
manor.
Although the United Kingdom has
comparatively small in extent Of ter
ritory, it has more of these vast
properties than any, country in Eur
ope or the world, due perhaps to the
law and custom of primogeniture ny
which estates are kept intact and pass
to the eldest son. There are 10000
comparatively large holdings. running
into the hundreds Of acres, and aver
aging about 400 acres. whereas the
average Of larger holdings in France
is 80 acres. Germany 80 acres. Bel
g1um 18 acres, Italy 80 acres, and In
continental Europe at large 48 acres
The average in the United Kingdom
is about eight or ten times that of
other parts of Europe. and about
three times as great as the Ameri-
can average.
The very large properties are esti-
mated to number about 10000 with
an average of 1900 acres. and value
Of 4o.o00,000 pounds. Then. among
these, there are comparatively few
of vast extent, running into the hun
dreds of thousand acres as the Duke
Of Atholl estate. Mr.. Money, the
member Of parliament who is an au-
thority on land, claims that one
SEVENTEEN part of the population
owns two-thirds Of the entire land.
Another authority estimates that the
10000 larger landlords own ten
elevenths Of the total area.
Lord Masham, whose death also
was announced recently was the for
mer owner of the Jervaulx estate If
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

IN the local hospital for several weeks
ioloWlng serious operation is stead
ny recovering and expects soon to be
able to return home.
Miss Bateson, student at the
state Normal school from Rolla, N.
~, who recently underwent an opera
.ion Tor appendicitis at the Mayville
hospltal mas almost recovered and will
De pack at her studies soon.
Professors Travis and Wilkinson
and Miss Speaker entertained their
Supt. Correll at the Correll home.
Professor and Mrs. Gould will en-
tertain the boys of the Normal school
at their home Saturday evening.
-, The young peoples chorus directed
first chorus number at the Congrega-
tional church last week. They will
continue to lead the singing and pro-
vide special music every Sunday even
ing at the church.
Mrs. Knudson from Portland is rap
idly recovering from an appendicitis
operation at the hospital.
Mrs: Jens Aim has received word
from her father, Mr.. NJ. L. Elkin, at
Los Angeles. Cal, that her mother is
improved and she will not need to
come as she had planned at this time
Mrs. w. e. White left to accom-
pany her mother to California where
she will remain for the remainder of
the winter.
Prof. Butterfeld Of the Normal pre-
sented the subject, 'The Function Of
National Government in Europe" at
the meeting of the Young Mems club.
Next Sunday the subject for consid-
GRAFTON will be 1.-The History of Ma
tional Government in the United
StAt0s."
Herald Want Ads Bring Results.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

sive. They are overshadowed by the
danger of the submarine blockade. In
spite Of warnings from a few far
sighted men England was not ready
for the wholesale sinking at sight of
all vessels. Such a barbarous develop
ment of sea warfare was not accept
ed by those who still believed the
Germans retained some shred Of re-
spect for civilization.
There are several ways of destroy
ing submarines. We are not permitted
to know what the submarine casual
ties are More merchant ships are be-
ing supplied with guns for defense,
which compels the submarines to re-
main immersed and use their torpe-
does. AS the nights become shorter the
activities of the submarine will be less.
Great Britain is blockaded, but she
will not be starved, and cOmmunica-
ton with her allies will not be inter-
rupted. Bread and other food tickets
will be introduced unless the people
ration themselves on reasonable lines.
A shortage is threatened in potatoes.
and to meet the scarcity the ministry
of agriculture has made arrangements
for growing early potatoes in Spain.
in the Channel islands, in Cornwall.
and also under glass instead Of early
fruit. The three months decisive per-
iod will be got through without serious
deprivations.
England will suffer less from the
blockade than the small neutral coun-
tries which abut on Germany They
are forbidden to trade with the allies
the countries in which their CONNER
cial interests are greatest. Holland is
already paralyzed. Her factories are
closed down, and trains are stopping
for lack of coal. Holland imports a
great deal Of raw material from Eng
land, including kernels and palm oil
for margarine. Without these materi-
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

ais her factories must stop. She must
also import fertilizers, otherwise ag'
riculture will suffer. Under an agree
ment Dutch farmers nave been sell
ing two-thirds of their produce tc
England, leaving one-third for export
to Germany. Now Germany will get
it all on her own terms. Unless Hol-
land agrees to trade with Germany in
coal in return for food products she
will starve.
These little countries like Holland
have the option of joining with the
United States in severing diplomatic
relations with Germany and commit
ting suicide or of being bled to death
Their fate is obvious and inevitable
unless Germany relaxes the stringen-
cy of the blockade so far as they are
concerned. 1 am told they are hopeful
Of obtaining concessions, but the ene-
mys difficulty is to concede anything
to these neutrals without comforting
some collateral benefit on England.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16
Mayville Notes

Mayville, Nd, Feb. 15.-The Wom-
ans club will meet at the home of
Mrs. Jens Aim next Monday evening.
Shakespeare's King Lear will be the
subject for study and will be present.
ed by Mrs. Lippitt and Mrs. Gould.
The w. c. T. u will hold Francis
e. Willard memorial service Wednes-
day.
Mr.. w. r. Munroe has taken into
partnership with him in the drug
business Mr.. H. c. Grinager and the
firm will be known in the future as
the Munroe Drug company They will
continue business in the same loca-
ton.
Mrs. David Anderson who has been
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

Herald want Ads Bring Results.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16
. . : . = . . . :
EAIERADO. =

EAIERADO.
- . - . sFs . .
Emerado. NJ D.. Feb. 16.-Mrs.
Geo. Dean visited Grand Forks on a
shopping tour yesterday.
Mrs. George Dryburgh, who has
been confined in the Deaconess hos
pital at Grand Forks for the past six
weeks, returned home Monday.
Mrs. VIM. Hancock, who has been
very sick for some time is much inn
proved, but still very weak.
Mr.. and Mrs. Sibel were visitors at
Grand Forks. returning Monday aft
ernoon.
Mr.. and Mrs. Elmer Dezell return
ed from the east where they have
been for q couple of months.
Mrs. c. c. Gritzmacher and little
son. Billie. left for Grand Forks
where they will visit Mr.. Gritzmaker, 8
parents. w. F. Gritzmaker.
Miss Anna Boehm Of Grand Forks
is with her Emerado friends again
for a few days.
In the near future the Emerado
Dramatic club will present The Old
New Hampshire Home,, a rural play
in three acts by Frank Dumont. This
is to be benefit for the Presbyterian
church.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16
BRITISH FOOD
PERIL IS LESS
THAN ThfDUTCH
London Editor Says Hol.
lands Choice is Between
Suicide and Slow Death.
(By Robert Donald }

Nby INODeTl DUIIdIu.J
London, Feb. 14.-Sessions have
been taking place of the British cab
met to study the crisis created by
depredations of enemy submarines. AT
various times in the war we are told
that we have reached the most crit
ical stage, but there is no finality in
these crises, and the latest is the
worst.
The war may not end. but it will
be decided within the next three or
four months. This decision will be
helped by the allies piercing the
western front, by Russia driving the
enemy back, by an advance in Italy,
and the holding up Of the enemy in
the Balkans, to say nothing of Of
fensive operations elsewhere.
The military prospects are good,
but they are not in themselves deci-
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16

az 900 acres, or about IS square
miles mart Of which he disposed Of, on
the ground that "s5, 1000 acres of Eng
lish land is too large holding to be
prudent -.
Dnke Of Norfolk further reveals the
extent of big land holdings among
the nobility. He was possessor Of
immensely rich estates, chief among
them that of Arundel Castle. which
dates from the time Of King Alfred.
who mentioned 1t in his will. The
late Dukes income from his estates
amounted to about $1,500,00O a year.
Herald Want Ads Bring Results.
Grand Forks herald., 1917-02-16
DUKE IiEAVES ESTATE

London, Feb. 16, Correspondence
of The Associated Press)-The Duke
of Atholl has just died leaving an es-
tate of 100000 acres in the Scottish
highlands of Perthshire. At $40 acres
square miles. or about the size Of
those sections in southeast Europe
which desire to be liberated and ina
tionalized." It compares also with
some Of the Indian reservations In the
The Raymer enterprise., 1917-06-14
NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION.

NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION.
j b (Puhlisher) 0l5S7
Department of the Interior.
u. $. Land Office at Sterling. Colorado.
May IA. 1917.
Notice is hereby given that Jesse A. Mayicld. of
Spurgin. Colo, who on May 3rd. 1911, made Home
stead Entry, No ol5s67. for NEl-4 NEl-4, Sec. 2s;
Ei-2 NWl-4. NW1-4 NWi-4. WIZ NE1-4. Sec. 27:
Swl-t SELL. SEl-4 Sw1-4, Sec. %: Township II N
range sc West 9Th P NJ has filed notice Of inten-
tion to make five year proof to establish claim
to the land above described. before register and
receiver, at Sterling Colorado. on the 10th day of
July. 1917.
Claiman. names as witnesses:
Roy ]. Monlux. Of Avalo Colo.
John j. Lewis. of
Henry Lewis of Sc :" 5-l7
Harye l.. Mayfeld. of Sterling Colo. GEL
A. F. BROWNS. Register
The Raymer enterprise., 1917-06-14

NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION
JB tpublisher) Serial 0lll9s
Department Of the Interior
y. S. Land Office at Sterling. Colorado
May, 4th. 1917.
Notice is hereby given that Erick A.
Stensrude, assignee of William F.. Ber-
ner, of Stoneham, Colo, who, on Feb,
23rd, 1919, made Desert Land Entry, No.
0l1l99, for NW1-4, Sec. 25, Twp. 9 N.
R. 81 w., 9Th P. NJ, has filed notice of
intention to make final desert land
Proof, under Par. 3. Sec. 5, act of 3-4-
Is, to establish claim to the land above
described, before Register and Receiv-
er, It Sterling, Colo., on goth day of
June, 1917.
Claimant names as witnesses:
Russell Henry. of Stopeham, Colo.
Thomas M. Allen, of
Edward Hoffman, of SO
james Craig, of GLIB
A. +. Browns, Register.
The Raymer enterprise., 1917-06-14
NOTICE FOR p1,BL1cArIoN

NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION
JB tPuBLIsHER) O2O450-O22l5O
Department Of the Interior.
U. s. Land Office at Sterling. Colorado.
May sth. 1917.
Notice ishereby given that Gideon II. Hayden. of
Stoneham Colorado, who.on March l2th 1914 and
on January 18th. 1915. made homestead ard add.
homestead entry No 0eOs5O-o22l50. for Sc quarter.
NE quarter. sectlan IL twp GIN. range 57W. 9Th
P M. has filed notice of intention to make three
year proof. to establish claim to the land above
described. before liver H. Daley. Clerk of District
Court. Ft. Morgan. Colo, on the 25th day Of June.
1917.
Claimant names as witnesses:
Wilhelm Paeth. Of StoIeham. Colo.
George W. Winkler. of e
James T. Brown. Of Fort Morgan. Colo. 5-l7
Lee 7. Cooper. of Stoneham. Colo. 6-2l
A. F. BROWNS. Register.