davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1917-10-12
4 Uniform and
By May Manton

modate the narrower width. The col
lar. cuffs and both brim of the cap and
It's lining you will lay on pique. For
lining the collar. cuffs and for the crown
of the cap, you will use simple white
lawn, and the Innings for the collar and
the cuffs will be cut exactly like the
outside
Ascertain the desired length by
measuring az the center back, from
the neck edge, and compare with the
pattern. II you find that the latter
allows sufficient length f6f a hem one
and one-half TO two inches in width
cut on the outside edge az directed on
the envelope; II the wearer is excep-
tionally tall and no hem is allowed,
cut beyond the pattern one and one
half or two inches, as you like.
Pin the different pieces Of the
pattern firmly into place, then mark
the line Of small circles near each edge
carefully for that line OF circles indi-
Gates the basting and the sewing line,
and that basting and sewing line is all
important in any garment. IL means
a perfect outline and il means smart
ness. Mark all the other indications
in a similar way including the notches
Notches never should be cut, for cutting
them injuries the seam edge. On
Ringham or such material you can
mark the basting line with a tracing
wheel and you can always mark the
notches and the other indications with
crayon. Cut around the outside edges
Of the tissue, then carry the markings
through 20 the under side. and TO do
this, first pin through and mark before
removing the pattern from the ma
terial. Fold the pattern and lay il
aside.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

who order the family menus. but also
those who are TO partake thereof.
There should be no complaint Il
luxuries are dispensed with There
should be cheerful acceptance Of any
self denial that may be imposed. No
matter what we do. no matter what
we give up, so long as we stop short
of actual want, we will never measure
up with the sons and the brothers and
the husbands who have donned the
uniform and who are needing the care
that our seli-denial will allow.
Every woman who is interested.
whether she has signed the pledge OF
has not, will like 10 wear this uniform.
IL means a dignity, it signifies a pur-
pose, and il seems somehow 20 keep
the idea before us and 20 serve as
an inspiration. IL is a very attractive
costume and at the same time il is an
essentially practical costume. IL is so
easy to make that il can be put to-
gether in a very few hours. and it can
be worn either as a dress or as an
apron, consequently, housewives can
use It for a double purpose. IL will
serve for the busy hours Of canning
and preserving and Of the planning Of
the family menus, and il also will serve
20 slip on over the pretty dress and to
protect it during the last few moments
before the meal. when we like 20 give
the finishing touches and to serve the
dishes in our own way, yet must be
ready TO take a place at table and do
honor to the family in becoming,
tastful garments.
The pattern allows all the seams.
All the work Of planning has been done
by the designers. There is nothing
left for you but to cut il out and 20 sew
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

The Government Is doing It's part.
, is putting out pamphlets that are
instructive and helpful. Il Is teaching
VOW to cook and what 10 cook. IL 10
wing Ne reasons for all that we are
isked 20 do. II seems a small thing
lor each head Of the household TO
end her energy toward just that con-
servation which is essential, il We are
to maintain the health and the vigor
4 those at home as well as Of the
rmy during the time of struggle. We.
eho are sheltered and protected, who
re not in contact with conditions. do
not all realize the Importance Of this
conservation. Ii is well that every
effort should be made TO impress it
upon the minds, not alone Of those
Evening journal., 1917-10-12
+ or the Housewives who are Doing Their Share in
the Worlds Great Fight
The Official Conservation Uniform and How 1t Can Made
By May MantOn

officials high in the estimation Of
'he public have asserted that the war
viii be won OF lost in the homes Of
imerica; that the housewives, the
women who control the food service,
1re the most vital Of all forces that
rc being called into requisition; that
them we must look to insure the
ictory for which our young men have
cen ready 70 give so much, 20 sacri-
iCe so much. Truly, il is a great re-
possibility. We must keep out
armies fed II they are to be equal 70
their work. We must help 20 feed our
lilies if they are to be able 70 continue
20 sustain the strain which they have
borne with such courage for the past
three years while we have been living
IN ease and in luxury. Il is well we
should be banded together, and the
'onorable Mr.. Hoover has recognized
hat fact
In the illustration Is shown the
'ficial Conservation Uniform that is
ade Of plain blue chambray or other
ashable material with collar, cuffs
nd cap Of white piquf. The cuffs are
ttached with snap fasteners TO be
asily removed. To wear that uniform
to wear a badge Of honor. House
ceping has taken on a new dignity.
observation means 30 much that
can hardly apply 20 il too strong
too big a word. We must learn what
ust be saved and what must be eaten.
must understand how TO keep our
Miles well and strong and vigorous
q az the same time 20 90 far curtail
usual supply Of the foods that
needed for shipment, that we shall
our part toward supplying those
ting men, those suffering women
children.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12
TuniC Dresses and Long Coats Make Important

There are no two more important
features 70 be found in the Autumn
fashions than the tunic dress and the
long, useful coat. Tunics take num-
beriess forms, but the two that are
shown here are eminently smart. In
the one case, there is an all round
tunic that is cut in one with the body
portion and belted, worn over a mar
rover skirt. In the other case, there
is a tunic at the sides only with panel
effect at the front and back. You
could think Of these dresses made iron
a great many different materials iol
the designs could be utilized Tor serge
and for gabardine and Tor broadclotn
as well as for silk and for satin, and
whatever material is used they Will
always be handsome, they will always
take becoming and attractive lines. .
The coat shows very new features in
the raglan sleeves, and the collar that
can be buttoned up about the throat or
rolled open. IL is one OF the best pos
sible models for general utility. wear.
Duvetyn is favorite material tor the
making Of such coats and here, It is
shown in mustard color with trimming
Of a brown fur, but this Is a coat that
you could make OF almost any season
able material. For immediate wear
it would be desirable made Of serge or
Of gabardine or of a light weight
velours cloth, and also there are shower
proof cheviots that are admirable tor
hard service, for motoring and the like.
II is one Of the simplest possible gar
ments and Just now, when 50 many
women are contemplating home sew
ing, the garment is.in special demand:
The sleeves are the easiest in the world
TO make for they require no fitting and
they take graceful and becoming lines
also there is no possible danger OF the
gown beneath being rumpled which IS
always practical feature in the slip-on
coat.
We are learning a great many les
sons as the war opens and among them
that Of true economy. Good material
well made represents wise expenditure
and il is wise expenditure which repre-
sents economy, not merely the cutting
down Of price. Unwise purchasing
not inirequently results in waste.
Value for money expended is the real
need OF the moment. Innings are liked
in plain color 70 match the outside for
general utility service Of satin that
will render wear and good service. In
place Of the fur trimming. a fur plush
could be used or a velvet on a cloth
The fur plushes are exceedingly hand
some and are being extensively used
for such purpose.
The dress with the all round tuniC
is essentially youthful in style anc
especially adapted to the debutantC
and TO college students and TO womer
Of youthful figures. Il is very pretty
made as il is here Of plain materia
in combination with a fancy one anC
with the fur trimming. For an al
round useful dress you could use a
blue serge OF a sand colored serge or a
taupe oolored serge or a broadclotf
TO be pretty and you could make the
under skirt of the same and the trin
ming Of a satin OF Of a velvet, or, II yot
like, you could use serge for the entire
dress emhroidering the vestee VI cen'-'
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

up the seams. First. smooth the pat-
tern out neatly and compare the
pieces with the diagram shown on the
envelope 20 be sure you understand
which is which. Then lay il out on
the material chosen. Chambries and
ginghams are usually about thirty-one
inches in width. The material indi-
Gated on the envelope is thirty-six
inches wide, but the same general
plan will hold for the thirty-one inch
width. The only difference will be
found in some little adjustment OF
the sleeves, pocket and belt 70 accom-
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

Turn the seam allowance on the
pockets under and turn again on the
second circles and stitch for hens
Turn the seam allowance on the re-
naming edges under and arrange
over the fronts with the upper edges
al the circles as indicated by the num-
bers in the diagram. II you have laid
the pattern on the material as shown
IN the diagram the front edges will
show selvages, therefore, no inturn is
necessary. Turn under on the circles
Indicating the hems.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12
Features Of the Autumn---By May MantOn

front with a little worsted thread 20
give variety and attach a collar OF
white piQue or Of white Georgette
crepe with snap fasteners. for a dainty
neck finish. For such gown you could
use a fur banding on the tunic or you
could use a band OF velvet OF Of satin,
or you could trim with rows Of braid
or you could apply soutache over
stamped design or, II you like the
effect, YOU could use heavy worsted
and couch over a stamped pattern and
repeat the idea on the vestec. All
these trimmings are in fashion and
they all come easily within the reach
of any woman for they require only
simple sewing for their achievement.
The gown with the tunic at the sides
il a bit more elaborate and dresay in
effect and il seems well adapted to the
satin in combination with velvet OF TO
crepe de chine in combination with
charmeuse or with velvet. In the
picture, indeed, II is made Of one OF the
new crepe-hnished silks that is a little
heavier than crepe de chine and the
undcr-slSirt and sleeves are OF
charmeuse while the trimming por-
tions are made from one OF the new
silks that show Oriental coloring, the
gown itself being in a quiet taupe
shade that is greatly enhanced by the
bright effect OF the brilliant silk trim
ming. There is a very great preference
for using quiet shades with bright
touches. and you can make this gown
successfully in the new shade OF grape
that is exceedingly handsome and OF
hne French serge throughout with the
collar and trimming portions only in
contrast, using either such a silk as the
one shown here or a plain silk with a
bit Of bright embroidery worked
thereon. II it we're treated in that
way it would be a serviceable, useful
gown adapted TO many needs.
Made as il is here Of the crepe and
satin, it is dressy enough for any
afternoon occasion. Some women
will like to have the sleeves match the
over-bodice and only the skirt in a
contrasting material, and that makes
still another variation. But the
guimpe effect is liked and in this case
there is a separate under( odiee 20
which the sleeves are att2< cd
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

Join the shoulder and under-arm
edges with double seams, that is, take
up a very narrow scam on the right
side, trim il off closely, turn over
20 the wrong side and stitch a second
time on The circles.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

For the uniform. you will have cut
the sleeves of on the first lines Of
circles from the lower edge. Close the
seams. bringing the notches exactly
together, gather the outer edges be-
tween the notchcs. Use the double
seams already described, then baste
in the arm-holcs with the single circles
az the shoulder seams and the notches
exactly meeting. but take the seam on
the wrong side and baste on the cir
cles. holding the sleeves easy over the
shoulders. They are cut a little larger
than the arm-holes in order 10 provide
the fullness that is necessary for COM
fort. II you cannot hold that iullness
evenly, gather the curved edges and
draw up TO the size of the arm-hole.
Stitch on the circles and stitch again
close to the edge Of the seam, then
trim off neatly and whip closely. II
YOU like the fiat finish. turn the seams
up under the apron, slash occasionally
TO provide a spring, baste and stitch
fat on the right side one-quarter OF an
inch within each seam.
Lay the collar over the lining, right
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

Close the seams Of the cuffs and Of
the lining separately and press open.
Arrange one over the other. the right
sides together and stitch az the upper
edges Turn the seam allowance on
the lower edges under and blind stitch
the outside 20 the lining. or. II you
prefer, allow hens az the upper and
lower edges and finish TO match the
collar. Work a buttonholc at each
circle and sew buttons on the sleeves
60 correspond. then button the cuffs
into place. Hem the lower edge.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

YOU prefer, allow three-quarters Of an
inch beyond the edge Of the collar in
cutting and hem the edges. Arrange
the collar over the apron with the
center fronts together and the notches
meeting, and baste into place. Cut a
bias strip Of lawn three-quarters of an
inch wide, long enough 10 underface
the collar and 10 continue 70 the
hemmed edges. Basic and stitch on
the circles in the apron, then turn
and stitch the edge into place. Line
the belt for strength, and for the lining
use either the material or white lawn
as you like. Turn the seams on the
straight ends under and baste, then
arrange under the fronts to the width
Of the hens, the upper edges meeting,
and stitch the hens including the belt.
Cut openings on the line of three small
circles and bind the edges with bias
strips Of material cut three-quarters
Of an inch in width.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

Lap the fronts Of the apron with the
large circles indicating the center
fronts meeting. either right over left
or left over right as you like. Slip
the under side Of the belt through
the opening in the opposite front.
pass around 70 the back and close with
q single button and buttonhole.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

To make the cap cut bias under
facing quarters OF an inch in
width and undcriace the edge Of the
crown. Attach a snap fastener on the
under side at each circle, at the center
front and at the center back. Arrange
the brim over the lining, the right sides
together, baste and stitch the
upper edges and the ends on the lines
OF circles. turn on the seams and baste.
Turn the seam allowance on the lower
,dgcs under and blind stitch together.
then press. Lap the one end Of the
brim over the other with the circles
meeting and attachwith snapfasteners.
Sew snap fasteners on the right side Of
the brim at each circle in the line
nearest the lower edge and az the
center front. turn the brim under on
the second line Of circles and attach TO
the crown with the fasteners.
--Ss-
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

e53I Food Administra-
ton Uniform, or Utility
Apron or Dress. "a OF 60.
3S or 40, AZ or a bust
Price 10 cents.
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

,5lr.s.5.5l6gsEHI6.ssh
nEAY MANTON PATTERN for /
y M these Designs arc ." Sale 3
THE SMITH zoLLINGER CO. 8
r ltb and MsrLs. Ss'. Z
i P,ttern No. .-..... .Size......- @
Pattern No.....-... Size. .-.... &
Name ....... ............... y
Street SbssiandNO.................. and No.. \
City. 0..............S State. 49,.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS luE,r,rsrxrsr.x,-
Evening journal., 1917-10-12

Lay the collar over the lining, right
sides together then baste or pin into
place and stitch on the circles, or, if
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
SEVEN BIG LEADERS
ABOUT REGISTRATION

/. There IL only ONE day for regis
ira tion June 3 1917.
?. Every male resident q the Unit
ed states who has reached MS
CAST aud has not reached his 3ist
birthday MUST register on the day set
June 5 1917 The only exceptions
nre officers aud enlisted men OF the
regular army, the navy. the marine
corps, and the national guard and ma
val militia while iu the service OF the
United States and officers IN the Of
fcers' reserve corps and enlisted men
M the enlisted reserve corps while IN
active service.
3. Registration Is distinct from
draft No matter what Just claim you
have for exemption, you must register.
T. Registration Is "A public DUTY.
For those not responsive TO the sense
Of this duty. the penalty OF imprison-
meut not fine, is provided IN the drait
act
3. Those who through sickness shall
be unable tn register should cause a
representative to apply TO the county
or CITY clerk for a copy or the regis
traitor card The clerk Will give N,
structious as To how this card should
be filled out. The card should Then be
mailed by the sick person or delivered
by his agent. to the registrar OF his
voting precinct. The sick person VIII
inclose q self-addressed stamped en-
velope for the return 10 him OF his
registra ton certificate.
g. ANY person who expects 10 be
absent from his voting precinct on reg
istratiOn day should apply as soon az
practicable for a registration card 10
the county clerk Of the county where
he may be stopping. or II he Is IN city
OF over 10000, to the city clerk. The
clerk viii record the answers on the
card and turn II over TO the absentee.
The absentee should mail this card to
the registrar of his home voting pre-
By registration day A self-addressed
stamped envelope should he inclosed
with the card TO insure the return to
the absentee OF registration certifi-
rate
7. Registration booths will be open
from 7 a m to pm. on registration
day, June 5. 1917.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
70 me at times.

TO me at times. Lydia =. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound and Liver Pills re-
stored me to health and / want TO thank
you for the good they have done me. !
have had quite q bit Of trouble and
worry but it does not affect my youth
full looks. My friends say why do you
look SO young and well2' ] owe 1t all
TO the Lydia E. Pinkham remedies" y.
Mrs. PoBT. SToPIEL, Sage Avenue,
Washington Park, Illinois.
Ifyou have any symptom about which
you would like to know write to the
Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine Co., Lynn,
Mass, for helpful advice given free Of
charge.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
FIERY RED PIMPLES
That Itch and Burn Are Usually
zematous-Cuticura Quickly Heals.

1t needs but a single hot bath with
Cuticura Soap followed by gentle
application of Cuticura Ointment to
the most distressing, disfguring
eczemas, itchings and burnings to
prove their wonderful properties. They
are also ideal for everyday toilet use.
Free sample each by mail with Book.
Address postcard, Cuticura, Dept 4
Boston. Sold everywhere.-Adv.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

fered with female
trouble, backache,
nervous spells and
the blues. My chill
dren's loud talking
and romping would
make me so nervous
/ could just tear
everything to pieces
and | would ache all
over and feel so sick
that / would not
want anyone to talk
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
WOMEN! IT IS MAGIC!
LIFT OUT ANY CORN
Apply a few drops then lift
corns or calluses off with
fingers-no pain.

Just think You can lift
.%1D off any corn or callus
S without pain or soreness.
Veal A Cincinnati man discov-
I'D cred this ether compound
and named 1t freezone. Any
W druggist will sell tiny bot
tie Of freezone, like here
lin shown, for very little cost.
You apply a few drops di-
" rectly upon a tender corn
a or callus. Instantly the
-0 soreness disappears, then
NM W IaJ shortly you will find the
InnrmM corn or callus so loose that
yHD ill., you can lift 1t right off.
/. !. !. !: !:
~, MM Freezone is wonderful. It
EIHNIll MNl dries instantly. 1t doesn't
lNNIl UIINI eat away the corn or cali
kINIIIl HlIF N lus, but shrivels 1t up with
EIHI lNI !; lout even irritating the sur
EINI lNEIll tIlrounding skin.
Hill HrHINl M Hard, soft or corns be-
~ tween the toes, as well as
N.Y. painful calluses, lift right
of. There Is no pain be-
fore or afterwards. If your druggist
hasn't freezone, tell him to order a
small bottle for you from his whole
sale drug house.-adv.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

Medicine is occasionally necessary to
help the system. recover its normal Juno
tions. That is especially true in Spring.
Wrights Indian Vegetable Pills are an
ideal medicine. They combine tonic and
laxative properties. Adv.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

Paper shirts have been issued to
japanese soldiers as protection
against cold
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
NERVOUSNESS
AND BLUES
Symptoms of More Serious
Sickness.

Washington Park, III. -"I am the
mother of four children and have suf-
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
Australia Has Most Sheep.

Australia, 1t Is estimated. contains
two-elevenths of the worlds total Of
sheep.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

There is no use in worrying. but
what difference does that maker
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
Careful.

Careful.
"Is he a careful driverT
'Oh, yes; wheneve~ he spots cop
he slows up"
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
How He Won Them.

$50 your boys going in for warT
'Yes, he is"
"What branch of the army is he in?'
Cavalry"
"And has he won his spursf"
'He has that. He went downtown
and got pair and had 'em charged to
me."-Yonkers Statesman.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

Hankow, China, has So registered
automobiles.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
When Your Eyes Need Care
Try Murine Eye Remedy

No emarting -Just Rye Comfort 70 cents 80
DrugHists or mail Write for Free nye Book
MURxHR EYE REMEDY co.. CHICAGO
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
False Pretense.

"Bill says he would like to enlist,
but he would be rejected on account
of his teeth"
Merely an excuse. He hasn't got
any,
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

Every cheerful thought points the
way to another
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14
INTERNATIONAL.
SUNDGYSQIOOL
LESSON

(By e o. SELLERS, Acting DIrector OF
the Sunday School Course Of the Moody
Bible Institute)
Copyright. 1917. Western Newspaper Union
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

WHO &c Women as we'll as men
~ Az are made miserable by
tn kidney and bladder trou-
Bile. Thousands recom-
III "A E, mend DR.. Kilmer's
Swamp Root, the great
kidney medicine. At druggists in nifty
cent and dollar sizes. You may receive a
sample size bottle by Parcel Post, also
pamphlet telling about It, Address DR..
Kilmer & Co.. Binghamton, N Y, and
enclose ten cents also mention this paper.
Grainger County news. (Rutledge, Tenn.) 1917-current, 1917-06-14

Smithville.-Chancellor A. H. Rob-
erts closed very important term of
his court at this place. He had a very
large docket with much important liti.
cation at this place. and was not able
to finish it on account of bavipg to
open court at Wartburs.