The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-10-07

satin that has been brought back into the market
 There is new kind of jersey invented by Rodier. who leads the world of fabrics. It is strong and durable and it is some- times double-faced, showing brilliant color on the inside, which is sparingly shown to the public when it is built up into a garment
 There is no lack of stockinette jersey, but, so far, it is not possible to see any success for silk jersey except in such weaves that may fool anyone into believ- ing that are voile
 One-piece frocks for the house or for the street under a smart top coat are ex- ceedingly good in this new weave which Is follower of the various voles and Georgette crepes that have gone before it. The Paris dressmakers used it last spring, but the experts tell us that 1t has been improved upon and that it Is far more effective than satin and strikes a newer note. Doeuillet mas used good deal of 1t in his new models; so have Jenny and Premet It lends itself to the flat pleating that we have borrowed from old Egypt and used whenever we were confronted with the necessity for grace ful. straight line.
 Brocades are more effective because they are not so common as they have been. They have been fashioned with skill and care and they show it. Black brocades with leaves of silver, pale gold brocades with great flowers of dull blue
 
 spreading leaves of silver and mauve, are some of the designs that are built 1 into evening gowns that have waists 1 made of a different but harmonious fab l rjc. These brocades can be draped into l skirts of great dignity. and then a 1 medieval waist built from solid gold l tissue band and jeweed net over the | shoulders.
 Mime. Paquin, for instance takes rare | piece of old black velvet and puts it | with dull red and cream brocade that drops from bust to toes in straight lines and is girdled with a great sash of the 1 brocade
 There are brocade trains attached to | the shoulders or to the top of a high 1 waistline, that sweep 20 inches on the floor and add to their glory by adopting ! a lining of periwinkle blue velvet, rich !, Burgundy satin or old Chinese yellow
 THE MILITARY BRANDING
 There have been futile attempts to and gowns since the war began, but it until this autumn. All the French houses and their American allies have adopted this type of trimming as significant of high fashion.
 Mme. Jenny of Paris signs her name, as it were, to almost every gown she makes by using a design III soft silk braid that resembles Chinese letters. Nat urally it is not as complicated as the Chinese alphabet, but it has that square effect made by quickly stroked lines that one connects with all Chinese work from a laundry to porcelain vase The designers use these Ci nese letters or a broad band or they run it in fine lines i across satin or velvet colored sur face. Paqun initiates it by using stitched strips of material. but Drecoll, Doeuillet, Cheruit and many of the other design CTS play with the braid as though it ] were paint brush It has the most mill tary air when it is used on top coats, and one does not object to it in such ] garment. The expected wholesale acceptance of , military ideas in womens clothes came about soon after our entry into the war, and it has about run it's span of life. The designers object to any strong mill tary influence in clothes, as the theatri- ,al managers now object to patriotic . marches, tableaux and flag raisings. $ It's grim and serious business now f