Middletown transcript., 1917-11-10
ORIGINAL MODELS
HARD TO OBTAIN

Bulloz creation Of one-piece frock
made in deep brown velours with Il
slight cascade effect down the eide Of
moderately narrow skirt. The dis.
| tmguishing feature is a wide chain
made from gold mesh, which from
around the neck drops to the waist
and seems to support an immense
square of this gold mesh which looks
for all the world like woman's shop
ping bag spread out across the abb
domen and attached to the belt.
Another is medieval gown of deep
purple velvet, with long, angel sleeves
and sweeping skirt that goes to the
floor.
Another is coat suit in which the
jacket has deep point in front and
q ripping hustle at the back.
There are q dozen more, but these
come to mind more quickly than any
of the others.
The Oriental Skirt.
1t is extraordinary how the Oriental
skirt has held its own. Here it is
with us again, and if one wanted to
be historical, it would be necessary
to go back to the early days Of Paul
Poiret, then Nine. Cheruit and then
Callot and write of their efforts to
make this tucked-in, Oriental garment
the fashion.
Jenny has clung to it with tenac-
! ity worthy Of better fashion. She
has not varied the rather ugly line
of the skirt movement which she
adopted. She gathers the skirt to the
waistline, turns the fullness at the
bottom up to a tight, narrow lining
and then allows it to swing free from
the legs as the wearer walks.
This season she has produced nov
city in the form of a skirt that is
more truly Oriental than the other,
and in this she is side by side with
half a dozen Of the great French de-
signers who have shown this skirt
without any apology for it's decided
OrientaliSm.
The distinctive feature in which this
new skirt differs from the old one.
both being taken from the Orient, is
that it has two openings for the feet
and is closed in the center. Such a
trick being adopted by smart society
gives the eccentric designers chance
to do daring and remarkable things.
There is one gown which has an
opening for the left foot, but not for
the right one. There is another that
has two pear-shaped openings for the
feet directly in front, with the outer
edges Of the hem sewed together, al
lowing the fullness to cling to the out.
side Of the ankles.
The only eccentric trick that re-
mains for some French designer to
do Is to put the opening for the right
foot at the back and the opening for
the left foot at the front. Consider.
ing what has been created, one ex'
poets such q development of this par.
ticular fashion at any moment.
There is no use arguing against this
new type Of Oriental skirt for evening
wear. 1t will prevail without doubt
among those who like what is new
and what Is graceful, and there is no
denying the exquisite grace Of this
type Of Oriental ckirt, and the good
setting it gives to a slim ankle and
well-shaped foot.
If there only could be law against
women with broad. thick ankles and
broad feet wearing this type Of eve
ming skirt, we would be q better
dressed nation, but as yet no censor
of fashions has arisen.
caIIot's Gowns for America.
This development OF a new skirt is
not the only interesting feature Of
fashions in this particular garment
A certain set of designers is endeav.
oring, despite the cry for economy in
material, to establish a skirt that
touches the ankles for the street and
the toes for the evening.
A few of the best American design
ers are back of this movement In ar
alliance with the French. There are
such leaders as Callot, however, who
make no compromise, but cut the hens
Of their skirts to the shOetops for the
street and an inch lower for the eve.
ming.
Another piece Of bravado is the way
Callot gives sleeves to her gowns
They are long sleeves, or, yes, quite
covering the arms as well as the back,
but they're made Of a single piece Of
tulle and are attached to nothing more
or less than q moderately high girdle
which does not reach the arms at the
sides or back by several inches.
She has one gown with oyster white
sleeves and back of floating tulle made
from piece of tulle drapery that is
banded for twelve inches with apple
green tulle, and across the front Of the
wrapped satin bodice is bias band
of brilliant green crystal such as the
queens wear in court costume.
Opposed to these evening gowns.
she produces the robe Of the stained.
glass saints. It Is Of swinging velvet
in cathedral colors, and covers up the
entire body from neck to heels with
the exception of few inches at the
neck in front.
(Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)
in the high-necked street and afternoon
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