The Press., 1917-04-05

oQudAIy VlRUCuuB HTOWGn may Vak6 place over the entire area. To develop and maintain a large effective depth of soil so that there may be ample living room, an extensive feeding surface and large storage capacity for mOsiture and available plant food materials To increase the humus in the soil through a deep and extensive incorporation of organic matter so that there may be a strong growth of micro-organisms and the maintenance of high content of water soluble plant.food materials To improve the tilth and maintain the best structural condition in the soil so tlrat the roots of the crop and the soil organisms may spread readily and widely to place themselves in the closest contact with the largest amount of food materials. To control the amount and regulate the movement and to deter mine the availability of soil moisture SC. <. that there shall never be an excess or a deficiency of this indispensable carrier of food materials to and through the plant To determine the amount movement and availability of the water-sOluhle plant food materials present in the soil 30 that the growth may be both rapid, normal and con. tinuous to the end of the season and to reduce the waste of plant food materials through the destruction of weeds and the prevention of their growth, through prevention of surface washing and drifting by winds. Success and returns from the garden depends to a great extent upon the way the soil has been prepared
 Now that we have an idea of what the soil should be and how prepared, let us consider the tools we are 10 use in our work; play would be a better word A small garden does not need the tools that a truck farm would need. The most necessary are: One good spading fork, one good hoe, should measure about eight inches across the blade and two and one half inches wide smaller and lighter ope should be handy so the girl or women might eDj1y the fun of oultivating !; one twelve t)othed iron rake, round, pointed shovel, wheelbarrow is almost a necessity and planter is convenience To this equipment is added a yard stick, rope au1 stakes, also dibber Buying good steel tools is economy; three is no econnmy in buying five and ten cent tinware.
 The garden should have some manure spread over it, horse manure is best as it decays quicker than other kinds, worked in at the time of digging or turning it over, thus it is thoroughly mixed with the soil and saves one operation
 If we use the method Adam used of old we need not be too ambitious and do the whole garden in a few hours; just spade the area that will be needed for the seed you wish to plant at that time. If the garden is large enough to warrant ploughing and you wish to do so, so much the better. It might prevent a little backaohe
 The following table will help in determining tIIe amount of seed the gardener may need to supply his table: One quart of dwarf beans will SOW 100 feet drill, giving approximately two bushel. in return; corn will SOW 200 hills Approximately 600 stalks) returning 1000 ears; peas, 100 feet drill, giving approxim mately one and one-half bushel peas. One ounce of beet will SOW 50 feet drill, returning 12O beets GA bunohes) Spinach, 100 feet drill, will give 6 bushel spinach; cabbage will produce 25OO plants; carrot, 100 feet drill. one half bushel of carrots matured; endive, 15O feet drill: kale, 1900 plants: lettuce, 26O feet drill, giving approximately 37O plants or heads; parsnips, 100 feet drill returning 25O parsnips; parsley, ] 50 feet drill; celery, 2OOO plants; oaulifiower, 1000 plants and one bushel potatoes will return approximately 10 bushel.