davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23

fashion for the building Of gowns from odd,
and ends Of fabric. Women delight in .urb
piecework. Give them the reins and they Ana
disaster. Yet the fact must be faced tia,
fashion will instantly see the adysability o.
using up all the. small bits Of material lef,
in the market when it is necessary to have an
eye toward the conservation Of all fabrics. a,
well as wool alone.
II this fashion comes TO dominate the outov,
Of clothes there must be a propaganda among
women to ask them to be exceedingly careful
and to study we'll the combination Of fabric,
and colors before they embark on the building
Of such clothes at home.
The French dressmakor5 nave shown US the
way in the last two years in putting together
odd bits of material in order to accomplish
good-looking gown. If We study their methods
We may come out all right They take one
piece OF satin, wrinkle it about the waist, droo
It in a straight lire toward the ankle and
finish the length out with silk fringe and
over this slim sheath they take another width
OF satin, bring it about the hips on bias lire
from the back and let it fall 10 the fringe at
the ankle line The third fabric IS tulle, and
it builds up the top Of the bodice and resolves
itself into a swinging cape which half covers
The arms and hides the narrownesS Of the satin
skirt At the back. Embroidered colored roses
are put in a formal design at the top and bot
tom Of this satin frock, and it is a good wager
that only the designer could show you tn,
trickery in the gown. 1t was built from three
pieces Of leftover fabric.
Another gown was built up Of velvet and
Georgette crepe. The velvet was constructed
like an oyerskirt, with a wide, wrinkled grde
and two bretelles that held in place huge
collar Of fur A strip Of the velvet was droppea
from the girdle 20 the footline Of the Georgette
skirt and embroidered and fringed to give it
an air Of luxury.
Everything can be accomplished in the con.
servation Of fabric il women will lend their
hearts and brains 70 it. Let The work start
to-day.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
Conserving Wood by Using
Odds and Ends

There is another coat suit in which less than
four yards Of wool have been used. The skirt
is narrow and slim and extends into a loose
corselet effect over the waist to the bust Above
that is a chiffon yoke with long sleeves in the
same color. The getaway top coat, which
drops below the knees, is loosely hung from the
shoulders and made Of dull green velveteen,
with an immense cape collar of petry held
closely about the neck with scarf Of vel
yeteen. As bit Of trckery 10 show that the
coat and skirt are intended to 20 together.
odd bits Of the wool that were left from the
cutting of the skirt have been stretched across
the hpline of the jacket in the form of loose
pockets These are brilliantly lined and held
in place with fur button.
Undoubtedly it is dangerous to establish the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23

HATRIOTiC action is demanded Of women
with regard TO clothes as well as food
n There was am important meeting IN
New York about December which consolidated
the cooperation Of the trade with The CONNER
cisl Economy Board, which has IT'S headquar
ters I'm Washington The government kne"
that 10 was useless 90 appeal TO women to save
wool in the building OF their clothes under
The rrescnt commercial circumstances 81
clothes selling. The great majority of women
buv their clothes They do not make them a,
home. They buy what they can get, and they
do not know the amount Of material contained
in a garment.
Therefore. the government made ITS appeal
for co0peration i'm the conservation of wool 10
those who make and design women's garments.
At this meeting held at the Waldorf-AstoriS'
Il was resolved and rules were formulated that
no man or woman in America would use over
AZ wards Of wool in any costume, and less il
possible.
The response to these rules was gwen MOI
only bv the dressmakers, but by the manuiSc-
turers. the mill people, the ready-to-wear d'-
nsrtrnent stores and private dressmakers. Inc
decision was farreaching. II IS now up 10
The women Of America to carry out for the
government a continued process Of conserVa-
ton I'm wool II will not be a hardship. one
viii not have to face the chasms Of doubt and
despair that opened up with the conservation
OF food. The government does not want
standardized uniform for women, such as
hosts of unwise but well meaning women ad-
Users have offered as a solution Of the clothes
question.
Mr.. Dennison, member OF the commercial
Economy Board, who addressed this meeting
insisted that it would not suppress but express
individuality II the world Of dressmakng were
compelled to use its brains in developing
good looking gown out Of AZ yards Of wooiIen
material.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
Enormous Saving by Using
Small Samples

II was not until late in the season that the
economy board persuaded the manufacturers
not to send out worsted samples Of the same
size as usual. and although the manufacturers
felt that trade would be throttled by such q
measure they sacrificed their interests TO serve
The country and found that they did not sac
Iifce anything but their opinion Far over @
hundred thousand yards Of wool were saved by
this measure alone and the small samples were
as productive of orders as the large ones.
II has also been found unnecessary to have
such a vast variety Of designs and weaves. 4
few standard worsted materials serve the pur-
pose Of this continent, and so, through the con
-ervation of designs, man power will be saved
and vast sums Of money and huge masses Of
wool conserved
Women need no. fear Cor their appearance
under the prohibition Of wool. They can hark
back to the days Of the Drectoire, when the
women created fashions that have ruled gen
erations since then out Of the odds and end
Of material which they were able 10 procure.
They made striped silk skirts the fashion.
skirts so narrow and slim that only their
length redeemed them from ugliness, and yet
when they added the velvet coat with it's pos
tlion back, the splendid waistcoat with its
great frills in front and the long sleeves that
reached over the wrist with their dangling
muslin rufles woman became picture Of
charm and interest. She was the product Of
conservation Of material.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
Standardized Uniform Idea
Has No Friends

The Government understands mat trade
would fall of and the commercial channels OF
III. country grow stagnant if a standardized
uniform we're adopted by all the manuf2ctuT-
ers and retailers. Women would cease to buy
clothes. The shops would be closed wage
earners would be deprived Of a living. There
is no necessity for such stringent measures
o.. as a manufacturer expressed it, such stupid
measures. All that the women Of the country
are asked TO do is not to make gown that
has over Az yards Of wool in IT, and 1t Is the
appeal Of the government that woman should
refuse ~ buy from a tailor, and retailer
should refuse TO buy from manufacturer
garments that have been made in defiance Of
this urgent appeal.
The manufacturers OF mems clothing have
already met the response Of the government
by putting out of fashion for the next season
the belted coat. II took more wool than was
necessary.
The American taiors and manufacturers OF
ready-to-wear clothing will cut out the long
Jacket for women when it is made Of WOOL no
matter how light the weave; they Will elm
mate fulness in the skirt and cut it as short
as decency will permit. Three and half
wards of wool is good average measurement
for the majority Of women, but the govern
ment will look kindly upon these retailers and
dressmakers who must deal with large and
stout customers, and even here it is believed
that individuality Of design and a plentiful
use of other materials rather than wool will
produce gown Of charm and satisfaction
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23

1t was the necessity for abandoning IN
necessary yardage for women's costumes that
brought about the elimination of the hoop and
the vast hounced skirt and we thereby be-
came a better dressed planet of women through
this measure.
There is still plenty Of silk in the land hun
dreds of yards of jersey cloth, velvet and vel
veteen in quantities. Georgette crepe, chiffon
in different weaves, and therefore no woman
need suffer either in her appearance or her
health by abandoning wool garments alto
gether, if she chooses to go to that extreme.
1t may sound fantastic to advise that women
wear furs il they cannot find wool, but peltry
is not oyer-expensiye and so far it is plentiful
Semi precious furs are warm and cheap. They
cover 4 gown Of thin material which has not
a thread of worsted in it, and they keep one
comfortable in the winds and SHOWS of late
winter and early spring
Little by little as the war progresses
women can abandon the use of worsted clothes
to large extent, and they can find other
means Of keeping themselves we'll and health
fully dressed.
One of the quick ways which has leaped
into fashion for women to conAerve wool for
the army is the use of short, slim, separate
skirt, with cutaway coat of velveteen, heay-
lily lined. Women who have such costumes
declare that they will wear these skirts with
corseet blouses of soutached silk and satin in
the spring, thereby saving cotton for the gov
ernment.
Hats made Of worsted have already been
replaced by those of satin and velvet.
Entire coat suits made Of worsted have mar
row bias hounces mounted on taffeta or
satin foundation. The short jacket which goes
with these skirts is so heavily trimmed with
fur and has such wide waistcoat Of satin or
matelasse that it can be considered bit OF
camoufage.
One Of the very smart gowns made for
bridal rousseau, which used up less than Az
yards of thin wooden material, had two bias
dounces across a taffeta skirt with deep hem
Of petry and a blouse Of embroidered satin
with wrstets Of peltry, over which was a
coatee of the wool with wide Chinese sleeves,
the only bit Of eXtravagance-edged with pei
try and lined with colored satin. There
was a sailor collar of peltry and japanese
bow Of satin pulled through two loops in the
back of the coat to flare from the wsistline.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23

with separate short, narrow wJollen skirt
The hat is new shape, of black satin, with the
volcano peak spouting ostrich nues.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
COW N BUILT
FROM PIECES
OF MATERIAL

1t is of golden brown
satin, with topaz colored
tulle cape and sleeves.
The lines of formal en-
broidered roses are Of
topszyellow and old pink.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
Craze for the Big
Satin Rose.

When we are not Oriental we are often
Spanish. Jeanne Lanvin and Paul Poiret
used red roses as their trademark, and they
claimed that the idea was suggested to them
by their own love for all that is Spanish for
these two great artists find in Seville and
Madrid the same inspiration for clothes thar
made Spain the ruler and arbiter Of women.
dress in the sixteenth century. Madrid wore
it's rose in its mouth or ir its hair but Lanvin
and Poiret took formal rose and applied II 10
the surface Of a costume, az painter puts
symbol or an initial in the corner Of his can
vas to show that the work is his.
Now Cabot takes the rose, Callot, who IS
Oriental and not Spanish and places it at the
waistline as the mark of . piece of work that
comes from that house. Naturally, there is rot
a rose with every gown, but when the French
theatres broke forth into brilliant plays for
the American public the actress who was
gowned by Cabot made her greatest sartoria
sensation in a gown Of dull red jersey with
long, brilliant necklace of jet and a huge rose
at her waist.
The fashion has filtered to America. Il is
gratefully received because it opens up an
other branch of apparel industry that may
catch some of the money Of this continent and
give it to those who are employed in the max
ing of women's clothes If flowers are fash.
ionsble there is plenty Of work for skilfGl
hands TO do, and the huge rose, with its open
loosely hung petals made of satin, velvet or
gauze, is an admirable adjunct TO the new
gown that must be slim of silhouette and
scanty as 10 material.
The red rose is used, also the black one, but
the yellow one that has something Of the tint
of cloth of gold rose, as it is called in the
South, is the one preferred to all others. Il
is worn at the wastline, trife to the LETT
side. 1t may accentuate the hem of the loose
corslet, or it may be placed in the folds Of the
skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
WOCLLEN SUIT THAT
MEETS DECREE

The skirt has two flounces of
wool laid on silk lining, which
gets its depth by means of
hem of pcltry. The short coat
shows a waistcoat and sleeves
of satin, with a Japanese bow
pulled oddly through button
holes at the back, to flare out
from the waist.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
PROTECTS FROM
COLD AND CON-
SERVES WOOL

The S hort skirt is of
beige coIored wool. Ii,
extends to the bust and
is met by a deep Joke
and sleeves of chiffon.
The velyeteen coat has
collar and cuffs of peltry
and huge pockets made
from pieces that were
left from the skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
BLACK VELVET FROCk

With short, knife-plcated skirt
and chemise trimmed with braid
and slashed in front. Collar,
muff and drum majors turban
Of black fur.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
HIGH-NECKED
DINNER GOWN

Golden brown velvet,
with panels Of gold
and black lace, and
large fellow satin
rose at waist.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23

These men on the commercial economy
board need have no fear Of obstinacy or rebel
lion against their decree. The women of other
DAYS and other countries entered into the spirit
Of economy in clothes with as much eagerness
as they entered into the extravaganza Of aP-
parel. The whole thing is in giving women
an emotional idea which they are to work out
to completion and success among themselves.
Obedience does not appeal TO them, but CO.
operation through persuasion sends them into
a fame of endeavOr.
Ii may be prophesied here that there will be
more novelty shown in clothes after the first
of January than there has been for several
years or possibly ever before. 1t may not be
shown by the women. but it VIII be expressed
by the dressmakers.
We still go to France for inspiration, but
in Paris we meet with the same appeal by the
French government TO its women as we
meet over here. The two nations are as one in
spirit, endeavor and desire.
Pound as one did at the manufacturers over
here last September for the introduction of
short jackets because of the fashion decree
and the reason for these abbreviated garments
in Paris, the three-quarter jacket was
launched and persisted in as leading fashion
until the first of December Through this one
measure alone, introduced by the American
manufacturers. thousands of yards Of wool
which could have been saved were used up.
The manufacturers of clothing in this country
we're not going against the interests Of the
government they acted ignorantly in an en-
deavor to promote an American fashion that
did not depend upon Paris.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-23
UTILITY
VELVET COAT

This one is made OF
black, single breast
cd, minus buttons,
laced through but
tonholes with silk
cord and II i. wnrn
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
2z SHOE FACTORIES AT
 LYNN TO SHUT DOWN
Because of High cest sf Materials
 and Shortage of Supplies.

Lynn, Mass. April l.-An agree ment to close twenty shoe factories or this city. employing between 12sO00 and 1000 hands. on Aprfl 20. was an nounced by the Lynn Shoe Manufac- turers' association tonight. The shut down. for an indefinite period was stated to be due to the increasingly high cost of materials and to shortage in supplies.
 fncides with the expiration Of an agreement between the association and the United Shoe Workers of America, but representative manufac- turcrs asserted there was no signifi- canoe in this fact. It was said, how ever. that the shoe workers had form ulated demands for an advanced scale of wages. All of the plants affected manufacture women's shoes.
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
FREQUENT CONFERENCES BETWEEN PAGE AND HAEFoUR Probably Discussing Arrangements
 For Cooperation.

London, April I. 600 D. m.-Fre- quent conferences between Anlbsssa- dor Page and Foreign Secretary Ball. four and the close touch being main- tained between the American naval attache and the admiralty indicate that arrangements are being discuss ed for cooperation when such step is considered necessary.
 It has not yet been decided whether commission will be sent to the United States or an American com mission sent here. The presence of American officers here would be well con1ed by naval men but Washington seems more likely to be selected as the place of meeting
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
Gains by
 tke Entente Allies
BRITISH PUSH FORWARD, NORTH
 OF ST. QUENTIN.
TAKE ANOTHER VILLAGE
French Have Captured Three Villages and Three Lines of Trenehes- Fighting Between Snow squaIIs.

Along six mile front southeast and south of St. Quentin the French have made another notable gain over the Germans. while northwest of the town the British have captured the village of Metz en Couture and there by gained san additional step in their plan to push forward on the southern flank of St Quentin.
 French Take Three Villages.
 The French gain was a dominating position from Grugies. about two miles south of St Quentin, through UrvfIlers to Moy. which lies in the valley of the Disc, six miles southeast of St. Ouen- tin The fighting took place during violent snow squalls and General Mi vele's men were successful along the entire line. All three villages were taken by the French troops. and in addition they captured three lines of trenches near the Folie farm, in the same sector. from which the Germans are declared to have fled in disorder, leaving behind wounded, three howit- gers and much other war material
 After the capture of Metz en Couture the British pressed on to the east of the village Here the last official re- port says. they are still engaged with the Germans and also to the north in the neighborhood of the Hayrincourt Wood The capture of this wood would have placed the British danger ously near Marcoing. an important town and the junction of the roads running from Peronne and Bapaume to Cambrai. West of St. Quentin German counter attacks against the British in an endeavor to recapture six guns taken Monday failed, accord ing to London Berlin Reports Heavy British Casual ties.
 The Berlin war office asserts that northeast of Bapaune and west of St. quentin heavy casualties have been Inflicted on the British and that near Noreuil, 240 British prisoners were killed by their own machine gunners as they were being taken back by inc Germans Only Sixty of total force sqf the goo Brisoners reached the back German lines. says Berlin.
 Gerrpans Attsck Russfars.
 Tn FoIhvnfa. 35 miles northeast Of foveI the Germans have struck a hard blow at the Russians fighting their way across the Stokhod river and inflicted heavy casualties on the RIssians- Considerable booty also fell into the hands of the Germans. Pe- trosrad reports the entry by the Rus HaIafova. the occupants of them be- ing bayonetted-
 Russians Pursuing Turks. q
 On the Persion front the Russians are still in pursuit of the Turks in the region of Khanikin Bombardrnents and small operations by detachnents or infantry are in progress in ace donia. The Serbian war off1ce reports that Teutonic allied airnaen have again dropped bombs on Mofastir and says that forty-seven persons were killed ano Zs wounded. a majority of them women and children. Numerous llous- es also were s5esfrovod
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
GERMAN REPLY ON THE
 TREATIES OF 17es AND 1923
is to Observe stipuiations AppIyino to
 Protection of Americana.

Washington, April 4-Germany in replying to the American refusal to re affirm the treaties of 17ss and 1928. has declared her purpose to observe their stipulations as applying to protection or Americans on German soil, but in the opinion of officials here has stated no new arguments calling for a con t1nuation of the negotiations.
 It was indicated tonight that no re- 1oinder you'd be sent, but that it had not Deensdehnitely decided to abrogate the treaties despite the belief of many onicials that they do not protect from seizure German ships in American harbors.
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
WOMEN WORKING FOR
 RECRUITS IN PHILADELPHIA
Touring the City With Enlisted Men
 From the Navy Yard.

Philadelphia, April 4.-Nine women, accompanied by enlisted men from the Philadelphia navy yard. began a tour Of the city in motor cars today in two weeks campaign for recruits for the navy. The women visited the financial and business centers, mill districts and residential sections.
 Plans for an auxiliary police .pa- trol force to aid in guarding the city against possible disorder as the re- suit of the latest developments in the national crisis were under considera- ton today.
 The plans call for the immediate en- rollment of several thousand men over 35 years of age.
 Six aeroplanes have been pledged for the aviation corps of the UniVer- sity of Pennsylvania.
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
RAIRoAp GUARD SHOT
 BY MILITARY GUARD
on Berkshire Division Bridge of New
 Haven Road at Derby.

Derby. Conn, April Frank Gaynor or Waterbury. who with Richard Duffy or Naugatuck. was doing guard duty on the Berkshire division bridge of the New sfork.L New Haven and Hartford 'signtfy wounded by Private Clifford E. Parson. one of the military guard
 Gaynor, it is said, was unaware of the presence of the soldiers on guard duty.
 when ne heard the command to halt what he should do Parson fired one snot. innlcting painful flesh wound on Gaynor's right shoulder. He was taken to Griffin hospital for treatment.
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
WHEAT JUMPED TO 2.o2
 A 5UsHEL IN CHICAGO Impending War Sends All Grain and Provisions Upward.

Chicago, April 4.-Impending war with Germany gave irresistible force today to buying movements on the board of trade, and swept all grain and provisions upward to what some big dealers referred to as nearly a famine basis. Wheat jumped to POP a bush el for May delivery. more than double the ordinary value in times of peace. The close was wild, at the topmost poinf reached, 2O1 5-S to 2O2 May and ITO to ITO 1-2 July with the market as whole 1 1-2 to 7-s above Mon days finish. Corn gained 3 Is to 3 3-4 net. oats 3-s to 1 1-4 and pro- visions 22 to 65 cents.
Norwich bulletin., 1917-04-05
100000 TRAINED
 MEN IN TWO YEARS
Plan Worked Out by the War Department Calls for
 That Number of Men in Their TWenties
EACH MAN FREE FROM HOME RESPONSIBILITY

everal Million Men Must be Enrolled and Examined Physical y Before the Process of Selection Can be AppIed-Co operation of State and Municipal Authorities May be Sought-Navy Department Has Placed Contracts for 200 Submarine Chasers and Has Prepared Take Into the Service Huge Fleet of Motor Craft for Inland Patrol Work-Army Officers Are to Oppose Any Premature Ef fort to Send an Army Abroad to Fight.