davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
SILKS-AND SILKS.

THERE are many reeIons why silks
are high priced this year. but there
is just one reason why silks are IN de-
mand this year more than ever before
simply because women want to wear
silks. Demanding their feminine pre-
rogstive of unreasonableness thAy wear
them just the same.
The war has had something to 10 with
the shortage of silk, as ii has has with
mos. everything else of late. IN the FIRST
place, expert labor is short Then some
thing happened to the cocoons In Tur-
key and for some reason there was a
shortags of raw silk in Italy, which.
coupled with the increased demand,
made things rather difficult and, of
course, sent prices up. Our little brown
skinned neighbors of the Pacific came
to our rescue by seeing in this situation
a chance for their own profit. and now
we are getting more silk from Japan
than anywhere else. Obviously. moth
ing happened to the cocoons in the land
of chrySanthemums.
And since Japanese silk possesses
very great artistic merits, even in the
cheaper grades. We have something to
be thankful for. Japanese silks espe-
cially commend themselves to this sea-
sons fashions. They are soft and sup
pie without being slinky, a character
istic which makes them especially suit
able to season when skirts are neither
Crepe de chine. which under the cir
cumstances might be called crepe de
Japan, is in great demand for blouses.
REPRINTED surahs and tussahs are
what the discriminating woman chooses
for so-called sport suits and frocks.
Printed India silks. which never saw
the country of the Ganges, are both In
expensive and useful There are even
some taffetas from Japan. However. tho
best taffetas seem not to be of oriental
manufacture. Especially good are the
striped taffetas of this season and those
showing wide changeable stripes.
The enormous vogue of pongee this
year is due to the fact that 1t is the
most easily secured of all Japanese
silks. as well to the fact that it lends
itself particularly well to the vogue
for sport clothes. 1t comes from the
word punk" which in Chinese means
simply own loom" The pun-ki or
pongee silk. then, is simply homespun.
In Japan well as in China it has
been largely product of domestic
manufacture. But even when put out,
as it is now. in large measure by big
factories, it goes by the name of pongee.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

what. but every one who was in Paris
last autumn remembers it. 1t is made
of black chiffon in three long. Egyptian
tunics that hang Imply against the
figure, each one embroidered with
wide band of silver bugles in an ancient
design. The upper tunic is longer than
the rest and hangs in drapery on the
floor when dropped. but it is skillfully
manipulated by the arm. which can pass
through a long. embroidered slit and
drape the length of chiffon and silver
about the body as one wishes. Chenal
was given to the posture of extending
her arm in dramatic gestures. bringing
about somewhat the same effect which
she gave to the drapery that made her
famous when she sang the "Marseil-
lase in Paris.
With this gown goes tall Egyptian
headdress of fine silver bugles and
beads set on black
Another Egyptian touch in costumery
is shown in the evening wraps for
spring. which are quite luxurious. but
light in weight and texture. Taffeta is
used for this garment more than for
any other. The wide, draped collar
which rises above the ears and folds it
self down on the shoulders is the pre-
ferred one. and it is used for street
wraps as well as evening ones.
None of this is Egyptian, but the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
Brookland Society.

| Miss Rebecca Woodward has returned
after a visit to Miss H. w. De Witt in
New York.
Mrs. Ripley was hostess Tuesday aft
ernoon to the Brookland Bridge Club.
Mrs. J. L. Truehart of Portsmouth,
Ohio. who attended the convention of
the D. A. r., was dinner guest
Wednesday of Mr.. and Mrs. Charles E.
Molster.
The second meeting of the Brookland
Auxiliary of the Red Cross was held
Thursday afternoon at 9 o'clock in
Lord Memorial Hall. Mrs. Archibald
Hopkins made the principal address of
the afternoon, making special plea
to the women of the community to CO
operate in this work. Another meeting
, of the auxiliary is scheduled for next
Thursday afternoon at / o'clock.
Mr. and Mrs. T. II. Mumford enter
| tanned at their home Thursday evening.
April II. in compliment to the Neigh
borhood Card Club.
Miss Vernat Hetfeld has returned to
her home after visit to relatives in
| New York city.
Mr.. Joseph L. Banner OF Balboa
| Heights, Canal Zone. is spending his
! vacation with his father, Capt. Joseph
Banner.
| The Monday Evening Bridge Club had
| its recent meeting with Miss Nernat
! Hetfield. Miss Hetfeld and Miss Re-
! becca Lennon were the prize winners
| Mr.. Delzene Marean and grandson
| Mr.. Brewster Marean. are home after a
visit with the formers son and daugh-
| ter-in-law, Mr.. and Mrs. Harold Ma
! rean. near Bealton, Va.
| Mr.. and Mrs. II. W. Pike were hosts
| Monday evening to the Y. NJ. r. Five
| Hundred Club.
| Mrs. Charles L. holster has returned
| to her home after spending ten days
| with Mr.. and Mrs T. r. Littlepage at
| Lloyds. Nd.
! Mr.. Horace NJ. Woodward, jr.. has re-
| turned to his home after an absence of
| several months spent in Omaha
Mrs. John Sperle has returned after
| a short visit in New York city.
| Mrs. Charles G. Lynch was hostess
| wednesday afternoon to the ladies' of
the Missionary Circle of the Brookland
/ Baptist Church.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

, touch of Cairo is seen in a great square
of bullion embroidered silk which is
placed fatty against the back of the
wrap. On some garments it looks as
though a brilliant. ornate cushion cover
had been picked up and neatly tackled
at each of it's corners to the loose back
of the taffeta wrap.
The Egyptian phoenix wing, which
was decoratively used at one of the
fashion exhibitions in New York. sup
plies color for much OF the new cos
tumery. The blue, green and coral of
this symbolic bit of Egyptian life is
copied in gowns. and especially in
jewelry.
With all this atmosphere Of the east.
of Cairo and Alexandria, reflected in the
clothes of the hour. it seems probable
that the straight, pleated skirt that
hangs plumb from the waist line will
outlive the one with the side drapery
at the hips But even if both remain
equal in value and fashion one thing is
certain that there is no chance for the
skirt with the wide hem. Since Janu-
airy skirts have lessened in width be-
low the knees. and although the public
refused to believe that the wide. far
ing, umbrella skirt belonged to day
that was done. the dressmakers have
Insisted upon Its use.
In Paris they diminished the width of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
SPRING Clothes From Paris Lack Eccentricit3

in France. and to revive the fashion for
lace was to make these exiles seif-sup-
porting.
The American designers jump with 10Y
over the idea of putting lace on gowns,
for there must be miles of It stored
away in this country waiting for
chance to see the sunlight. Now there
will be chance to use it up for frocks.
wraps, blouses. peplums, hats. parasols
and accessories. The designers are
even putting precious lace on satin
frocks for the afternoon. and afternoon
gowns are made of a new kind of
shadow lace in ecru or oyster white
lining.
The success Of the peplum, or outside
blouse. will give an impetus to loose
waists that can be girdIed in with
Chinese brocade or with the new. brill
liant ribbons copied from antique de-
signs. These blouses may be lined with
white or colored chiffon or silk net and
worn with any kind of skirt.
Jenny has brought up the crochet lace
| of the Rumanian peasants. and this. in
string or biscuit color, makes an adj
| mirable peplum blouse over dark or
| light skirt for country club wear.
Another method of using lace as an
accessory is to drape 1t in the form Of
broad suspenders over the shoulders
| let it drop to the hips and then cascade
| it there to give the oval silhouette.
Cheruit makes a gown Of cafe au lait
crepe de chine in straight line from
| head to foot, with half the skirt of
| black crepe de chine. From shoulders to
| hips there are draped suspenders of
black chantiIly lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
CHARLES TOWN. w. VA.

Rev. John S. Alfriend was visiting in
Washington. Carl Kahn was visitor
from Baltimore Misses Ann Gibson
and Frances Packette were visitors to
Richmond, Va. Everett Edison was a
visitor from Washington. Mrs. Belle
Jackson. Rooney, visited Mrs. w. b.
Packette. John Coleman was home
from Washington. Roger Chew. New
York. visited his home here. Mr.. and
Mrs. r. w. Alexander and daughter
were here from Baltimore. Mrs. H. NJ.
Moffett returned from visiting her
mother. Mrs. James Polk Cannon
Fredericksburg, Va. r. E. Beavers re-
turned from visiting his daughter Mrs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

said G. A. Bryhn, naval recruiting Off
GER. during a trip here on Thursday
Maryland would have had no trouble
April 20. The women have been re-
sponsible for more recruits in the past
week or SO than have been gotten py
all previous recruiting.
Monday evening the Frederick County
Chapter of the American Red cross
Society was organized. The work OF
the chapter is separate and distinct
the Frederick County Defense Assoc1a-
ton. The following officers were elect
ed: j. d. Baker. chairman; Judge Ham
mond Urner. vice president; j. Travis
Thomas, treasurer, and Ernest Heiieh-
stein. secretary. Those attending the
meeting were James II. Gambrill. 5r.
Mai d. John Markey. Ernest Helfen-
stein. f. c. Markell. Rev. Douglass
Hooff. Rev Thomas Freeman Dixon
Rev. Henri l.. G. Kieffer. Columbus
kemp. DR.. r. NJ. Rau, DIR. Thomas B.
johnson, DIR. Hayes Brown, Miss A: B.
Kemp, Mrs Hayes Brown, Miss Flor
ence Garner. Mrs. Hammond urner,
Mrs Thomas 3. Hayward. Miss Tyler
and Mrs. George X. Birely.
Miss Rhoda Bergman, Baltimore, has
been the guest of Mrs. William T. Della
PLANE. Albert Wiles has returned from
trip to Akron, Ohio; ana Mlcnigan.
Senator Harry 7. Washers. York, Pa.
who spent the week here as the guest
of his aunt. Mrs. Clara Liebe. at the
home of his cousin, Mrs. Milton Shook,
has returned. Mr. and Mrs. Frederick
w. Cramer and children motored to
their home in York, Pa, after spend
were Accompanied by Miss Pauline
McCardell. who will be Mrs. Cramer's
guest. and C. Sothorn Howard, who
spent the week end here.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

as long as they've got both on hand.
but il is the duty of the reporter to tell
of what is coming more insistently than
what is going.
Another change in fashions which is
creating a stir of interest in this coun-
try is the lavish use of lace. France had
much of ii in reserve. but she made it
Fashionable in order to give the women
and older children a chance to earn
money through the winter Thousands
of the Belgian lace makers are refugees
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
FREDERICK, MD

Hundreds of women. society leaders of
the county and western Maryland. are
joining auxiliaries of the Frederick
County National Defense Society. which
was formed here several weeks ago
to more than 500. They have converted
themselves into volunteer recruiting
officers and tour the town and county
on foot and In automobiles. encourag-
ing men to enlist in either the United
states Army or Navy. This personal
campaign has netted upward of a doz-
en- enlistments in the past week.
'Tf all the counties of the state were
as patrioticaIiy inclined a. Frederick
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
MARTINsBURG, w. VA.

Martin Mcdonald, who visited his
mother, Mrs. ]. L. Mcdonald. returned
to Washington. Carroll Bender re-
Mrs. P. l.. Letter and Miss Anna Bell
DERRICK returned from New York Mrs
Mollie Shay, Greenwich Conn, has
been visiting her aunt, Mrs. Ella Bales.
Mrs. A. j. Criswell was in Washington
attending the wedding of cousin. Miss
Margaret Scott, who visited Mrs. c. b.
Nicholson. returned to Pittsburgh. Mr..
and Mrs. P. NJ. Light have been visiting
Mr.. and Mrs. C. H. McGinnss Wash
ington. Chester Shade returned to
Lexington, Va. Mrs. Fannie Stewart has
gone to Philadelphia. Mrs. Molie Shade.
New Haven. Conn, is visiting Mrs. Eva
Bell. John Brilliant. Washington,
visited his mother. Mrs. Ella r. Brill
hart. Former United States Senator
IL.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

cellaneous shower last Monday even
ing in honor of Miss Jessie Mohler.
The house was beautifully decorated
in white ribbons and bells. A large
knot formed the centerpiece for the
table.
Among those present were Mrs. r.
Stake, Miss Nellie Frain, Miss Olive
Greer, Miss Anna Dawson, Mrs. Charles
Kraft, Mrs NJ. Lewis. Miss A. Lynch.
Miss Katherine McInerney. Miss Louise
Potter. Miss Teresa Moore. Miss Eliza
beth Humphrey and Mrs. L. Fitzgerald
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

scarcity of material used; but the
thousands upon thousands OF women
who buy material for their own gowns
will see the advantage in dropping the
extra full skirt and adopting the slim
line of the new silhouette.
y x
Already the exclusive dressmake rs
are insisting that the pegtop skirt, or
the drapery that is pulled out at the hips.
is mediocre The first fashion, they in
sist, calls for a straight silhouette from
shoulder to heels without the break
given by the pannier effect at the end
of the corset.
What Is known as the barrel skirt,
pure and simple, has few followers, but
the skirt with the kangaroo extension
at each side is admittedly the popular
success of the hour.
Against this skirt is the one called
Egyptian. which has been described by
all the fashion writer's until the women
know most that there is to know about
it. 1t is the straight, knife-pleated skirt
dropped from the waist or from a shall
low yoke and is supposed to have been
worn by the fashionable AIexandrians
at the time of That's and Aphrodite.
There is SO much that is Egyptian in
the spring clothes that II should not
surprise the onlooker to see this
straight, pleated skirt win out above all
others before June arrives. Bulloz, for
instance, has met with singular sue
cess in this country through a gown
which he calls Aphrodite and which
was originally made for Mile. Chenal
when she sang the title role in the
opera last autumn in Paris.
Bulloz has changed the gown some
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

skirts gradually, but over here the
change appeared to come overnight, al
though the prophets and experts had
been insisting upon this revolution for
three months The trouble with the
public is that it will rarely believe
what it reads. but relies on what
it sees. This is good. sound wisdom,
but it often keeps woman from being
prepared for a change when it comes.
The shops have the canny business in
stinct to supply the old with the new
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
Random Notes.

Mrs. Emma S. Shelton and Mrs. Ella
NJ Drew. who have been spending the
winter. in Florida, have returned to
their home at Chevy Chase. They
visited Palm Beach, Miami and st.
Augustine.
Miss Nellie A. Freeman and Miss
NJ. +. Serrin have returned from Phila-
delphia.
Miss Loretto Fitzgerald gave mis-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
In Nearby
Society Circles
ROCKVILLE. MD.

Mrs. Howard o. Larcombe entertained
at cards and luncheon Tuesday after
noon. her guests being the members OF
the Tuesday Euchre Club and a few
others. The Rockville Inquiry Club
met Monday afternoon at the home Of
Mrs. WILLIAM II. Helmss In Washing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

r. II. Omohundro. Griffin. Fla. Miss
Julia Phillips was home from Freder-
lex county, Va. Miss Helen Young was
called to Washington by the illness of
her sister. Mrs. Arthur Appel. Mr.. and
Mrs. Thomas Hill Mason Abingdon. Va,
visited Mr.. Masons father. going
thence to WASHINGTON
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
WINCHESTER, VA.

Mrs. Robert McC. Glass and Mrs. J. 3:
Raker have been visiting relatives and
friends in Baltimore and Washington.
Mrs. Harry l.. Livick has gone to Rich
mond. where she will spend some time
with her mother. Mrs. William Calder
Graham. Miss Douglas Fuller has been
the guest OF Miss Antoinstte Markell
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22
HAaERsToWN. MD.

Several hundred persons from this
city and adjoining towns attended the
charity ball given Thursday night by
local society. The young ladies of the
city entertained at reception and
dance for the young men at the Ha-
gerstoWn Country Club Thursday
night. Mr.. and Mrs. Fred Long gave
birthday party Tuesday night for
their son Harold. The Golden Star
Council, No. %, Sons and Daughters of
Liberty. celebrated their anniversary
with a reception Thursday night. Miss
Helen Unseld rendered a birthday party
to her many friends Monday night at
her home here. Lieut.. and Mrs. Joseph
c. Byron are spending part OF their
honeymoon here with the formers
parents. Miss Mary Mish returned to
her home after spending a week as the
guest Of Miss katherine Cramer. Fred
erick: Mrs. Charles Diffendal and
daughter Bertha of Rosalie. Kansas.
are visiting Mr.. and Mrs. Harry Clark
Mr.. and Mrs. Glen Goodrich of Balti-
more are visiting Mr.. and Mrs. Charles
H. Eyerly. Rev. and Mrs. J. Spangler
Kieffer are visiting their son. ]. Clarke
Kieffer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

in Frederick, Md Mr. and Mrs. ]. Fos-
ter Gray and the latter's mother. Mrs
Emma Goshert, have been spending a
week in Washington and Richmond
Mrs. Joseph Houser has returned 10
Cumberland. Md, after visiting her
parents, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Perry
Miss Florence Bristow has returned to
Washington. after visiting friends in
town. Mrs. Sue Davis is visiting
friends in Washington. Rev. Dr.. w. +.
Bird of Baltimore has been visiting
his brother-in-law and sister. Mr. and
Mrs. James I. Larrick. Miss Eve Faux
ner has gone on an extended visit to
friends in Washington and vicinity.
Mrs Joseph E. Campbell OF Washing
ton, who has been visiting relatives
here. has gone to Ell Paso to join her
husband, Lieut.. Campbell, who is con-
nected with the Medical Reserve Corps.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

Continued on Eighth Page.)
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

Miss Loretto Fitzgerald gave mis-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-04-22

@RoBABLY, the lack of eccen-
III tricity in the spring apparel Is
its distinguishing feature. This
q is an admirable trait in time OF
Taiban Valley news., 1917-06-15

Washington, June S.-With official
returns of the selective draft registra-
tion coming in slowly to the War De-
partment, government officials are
satisfied that the total registration
probably will exceed 100000. Com
plete reports from seven states and
the District of Columbia received at
the provost marshal generals office
Thursday gave total of S16,407 men
registered, as compared with their
census estimate of S48,917.
The estimates were based on the
census of 1910, to which the Census
Bureau had added it's estimate of the
growth of population for each section.
The figures, therefore, were not an
absolute criterion for comparison.
Pennsylvania registered almost a
hundred thousand more men than cen
sus estimates, according to figures re-
ceived by the War Department. Gov
ernor Brumbaugh reported the regis
tration of 950,300. The census figures
anticipated were S79,3SS.
The War Department is working on
regulations for the second step in the
army draft, selection by lot of pro
portion of young men registered
while the provost marshal generals
office was compiling data on the reg
istration.
1t may take week or ten days to
complete the nationwide tabulations
Then the War Department will pre-
scribe rules for drawing names of men
who are to be examined before local
or precinct exemption boards and for
the composition of these boards and
of boards of review to which those
drafted may appeal.
A call for a definite number OF
troops will be issued, each state Will
be notified to contribute a certain
proportion and state authorities In
turn will determine allotments for
subdivisions.
Officials noted that the returns
received so far indicate that more
than half of the men registered either
claimed exemption or gave facts
which might exempt them. The War
Department may issue a guiding
statement for boards of exemptions
but actual decision on each case will
be left to the local authorities. EN-
phasis is laid on the determination to
prescribe no class exemptions, but to
pass on cases individually.
Taiban Valley news., 1917-06-15
Fish Are Misnamed.

fish is misnomer. There is a fish
plentiful on the coasts of Alaska
known as the atka maCkerei. The bu-
reau of fisheries patiently points out
that it is not a mackerel and nothing
like a mackerel. But it is an excel
lent food fish, and can be shipped salt
ed. Alaska canneries have been en-
couraged to salt this fish, which will
be known as the atkafish, and 1T
should make it's appearance in our
markets in the coming winter.
Taiban Valley news., 1917-06-15
FOREIGN

Vice president Of China presented
his resignation.
Gen. Michael V. Alexieff, command.
er-in-chief of Russian armies resigned,
San Salvador, Santa Tecla and six
neighboring towns and villages we're
destroyed in an earthquake.
Abram l. El,1us, former American
ambassador at Constantinople, arrived
his family.
Gen. Pershing's task in France was
described as a most arduous one by
Col. Fabry in an interview with rep
resentative of the Paris Petit Parisien
The Kronstadt incident is closed
The local committee of soldiers and
workmen's delegates has recognized
the authority of the provisional gov
ernment.
Maj Gen. John ]. Pershing, com
mander of the first American expedi
tionary force to France, arrived in
England, accompanied by his staff
He reported pleasant trip.
A bottle containing a number OF
messages, apparently written by mem
bers of the crew of the long-missing
American steamship Frederick, has
been washed ashore at the Orkney
islands.
Italy's offensive in the Isonzo bat
ties of the last nineteen days has cost
her 100000 in killed and wounded and
10000 in prisoners taken by the Aus
trian forces, al official statement
from Vienna asserted.
The congress of peasants in session
at Petrograd adopted a resolution
calling upon the army to submit itself
to discipline and defend revolutionary
Russia. The congress affirms the
duty of those it represents to defend
the country energetically, and make
every sacrifice to sustain the fighting
strength of the army.
Taiban Valley news., 1917-06-15
His Suspicious Aroused.

Mrs. Gwendolyn Van Style-And,
Griffin, always remember to offer the
salver for the gentleman's card.
Griffin (elevating himself to tiptoe)
-YeS'm.
Mrs. G. Van Sand, under no cir
cumstances, Griffin, remain waiting in
the drawing-room until / come down,
as you did yesterday.
Griffin Qetting himself down to his
heels again)-But suppose, mem, as 1
takes him to be gent, mem, what1l
bear watchin', mem?
Taiban Valley news., 1917-06-15

l will have to die as there is no help for
me- She got me one of your little
books and my husband said / should try
one bottle. l stopped the Doctors
medicine and took Lydia E. Pinkham's 8
Vegetable Compound. 1t soon made q
change in me and now am strong and
do all my work. Mrs. AUGUSTUS
BAUGHMAN, Box Sc, Enhsut, Pa.
Why will women continue to suffer
day in ard day out and drag out sickly,
half-hearted existence, missing three
fourths of the Joy of living, when they
can find health in Lydia E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound?
If you would like free confidential ad-
vice address Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine
Co., Lynn, Mass.