Middletown transcript., 1917-01-27
SATIN IS USED IN WINTER HATS

! lSneS, ana elongated at the SIDES ant
flattened at the back. One Of th'
best Of these French shapes Is made
Of black satin, the top of the extrs
high, upturned brim edged with s
fringe of aigrettes.
The main points to remember ir
the new hats are the tightness of the
headband in all trrbans. the even line
which is carried out around the head
the elimination of more than one or
nament and the tendency to hold tG
Slavic ornamentation instead of any
other.
The Chinese mandarin turbar
which has come into first fashion
along with the Chinese fabrics and
ornaments imported to this country
to fill the place of the European i'm
pOr.ations, is strangely in keeping with
some Of the Russian shapes, and even
| the cOlors of the Chinese ornament
| which hangs from the button ut the
| top. closely resemble those used by the
Slavs. Well, there were days in the
formation of the races on this planet
when the Mongolian and the Russian
were closely mingled. Genghis Khan
left many Mongolian traces in that
vast bit Of territory known as Russia,
and it may be that the hat was one.
The Transparent Brim.
Since the advent of the evening hat
| as an adjunct to the low gown when
| one is dining in restaurants, there has
come into the fashions an entirely new
kind of millinery. These new things
. ire afternoon hats de luxe. All that
the milliners wanted a woman to wear
In the afternoon, and against which
she rebelled for many reasons, she Is
happy to wear at night. 1t has given
her good opportunity to exploit the
wide brim, which motoring, dancing
and skating have put somewhat in the
background.
These brims are transparent. Car
to.nists used to draw amusing pic
lures Of women using brims of hats
as substitute for wells, and the idea
was considered caprici0us and attrac-
tive; and, suddenly, 1t is taken seri-
ously. Metallic net and bullion lace
are used for these wide brims, and
the hat is tilted so far forward over
the eyebrows that 1t is an easy mat
ter to look upward through the fabric.
The fashion has also led to women
doing up their eyes bit in the Orien-
tai manner, so as to make them more
significant and expressive under the
half-concealing metal tissue.
The crowns Of these large evening
hats are made of crystals. of closely
crushed roses and Of heavy metal em.
broidery on tulle or satin, but there are
no feathers. The much-vaunted Os-
trich feather. which was taken up by
the best of the French designers in
September, did not gain a place in the
affections Of the public, and the
musketeer hat that Talbot revived.
with its sweeping plumes and its like
ness to those worn by the women OF
the eighteenth century in England.
was taken up only by the individual
who wanted something different from
her neighbor.
1t pu,y be safely said that In choos-
ing az evening hat or one for the aft
ernoon, if you have the social oppor-
tunity to exploit so ornamental an
article, it is wise to just look into the
metallic fabrics and 60 no further.
Makes AIiuring Picture.
It is at its very best in the latter
setting. The woman who can wear a
simply cut, medieval frock Of black
chiffon velvet, with it's slightly open
neck, absence Of collar and full
sleeves caught in with an embroid-
cred band at the wrist, and straight
Reboux sailor of Oxidized cloth of
silver, Is sure Of turning herself into
an alluring picture.
1t is not within the power of every
woman to look well in a metallic hat.
If she will be fashionable at the cost
Of her appearance, let her take her
courage in both hands and defy opin-
ion; but If she will compromise with
fashion and her appearance and will
see to it that flesh pink tulle is laid
somewhere in the intricacies Of the
metallic lace or embroidery that makes
up the brim, she can frankly line
wide, transparent brim with a double
thickness or plating Of flesh pink
tulle. This will make q hat more strik-
ing and effective than If the harshness
Of its metallic threads is left un-
touched by a softening veil.
Probably the best Of these models
is one that has a crown entirely Of
faint blush roses mounted on gold net
which is pulled in and out of the flow.
ers, and brim that tits bit In front,
made of fine gold lace mounted on
flesh pink tulle.
All of these evening hats are worn
with low gowns more often than with
half-high ones, but so far they have
not been adopted at the theater, for
few women are willing to go back to
the inconvenient days of holding a
large hat on their laps, or. failing in
the attempt to hold it, spend most Of
their time frantically grabbing it to
keep 1t from slipping, or picking 1t up
from under the heels Of the man who
goes out between the acts.
Copyright. 1917. by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)
Empire Effects In Linoerie.