Crossville chronicle. [volume] (Crossville, Tenn.) 1894-current, 1917-11-21

| o. lue lullueSS Ut lue WulSIllle mas
almost vanished; the fastening at the
front or side is not tolerated. But all
of these features of fashion are merely
accentuations Of an accepted style.
The designers have cut down to the
bone, as it were, and given US all In
the way of grace, cleverness and beau
| ty after they sacrificed every inch of
material that might have been super.
fuous.
The Tunic Persists.
That the medieval chemise frock that
came In with such a ringing of bells
and blowing of trumpets has decided
that 1t will continue to be welcome
factor in fashions. There are a good
many women who are tired of 1t, as
we are not proof against that weari-
ness that comes from seeing one thing
multiplied through every phase of our
existence, and 1t has not been humanity
possible to escape tunics since they
made their appearance.
There were not as many of these
gowns put out by the American de-
signers in the early trade of the sea-
son as by the French, who evidently
are not in the least tired of the one
garment. They have repeated 1t in
Pleasing ways. They mske 1t In thin
and In thick fabrics; the. offer it as
a coat, on an evening gown and as an
elongated blouse for the house. The
entire movement of French clothes
shows this tunic coming In and out of
the film.
Possibly, the one new feature that
is most noticeable about it is the slash
Ing at the sides. The house of Doeuil-
let is credited with having started
this movement. 1t looks well and it Is
part of the universal tendency in
clothes to present panels from waist to
ankles. There is an epidemic of these
panels. They are put by every tailor
and dressmaker where they do the
most good or the most harm. They
are Egyptian or. as some critics said,
midMcKinley. They have allure and
they have most evil possibilities of
ugliness. .
The selection Of the good and the
avoidance of the bad In this movement
of dress is up to the individual. The
part of the reporter is to say that
panels are ubiquitous and that the
tunic Is slashed.
A woman with large hips cannot af-
ford to go in for indiscrininate slash
ing below the waist. She should always
in nd hn 70 hot
line at the sides shows the curve Of
her hips where it is most perceptible
and often gives her rotund look that
could be easily concealed by another
kind Of drapery.
Belt Is Important.
The question of belt on these
tunics is another matter of impor-
lance. One may call the waist drap-'
cry an accessory to the gown, but the
artist and the expert dressmaker con-
cede the fact that 1t is the kind of
trifle that makes or mars the whole.
1t is well that every woman remem-
bers this truth during the remainder
of this season. She will find, as the
months follow each other, that 1t will
take all her ingenuity to deal with the
extraordinary influx of belts, girdles,
sashes and waist drapery of pleasant
and sinister kinds.
There are evening gowns that seem
to be all sash. An immense piece of
drapery is welded by an artist dress
maker into dominating feature Of
the rock by wrapping it below the
bust, at or below the waistline, then
1t into n deep panel that
drops down the length of the skirt at
the back or into bullying bow with
long, fringed ends that covers the en-
tire side of the figure.
There are belts on some of the new
coat suits which are almost cOrslets,
and an accessory of this type on the
wrong figure would turn a good look
ing woman into caricature.
There Is a nest Of belts, four or five
Of them, linked together by some COM
mon cord at the side and back and dis
posing themselves over the entire mid
lie of the body.
There are actual corslets of fioriated
let, of Egyptian tissue worked in tur-
luoise and Jet beads, of black silk
)raid on a satin or serge foundation,
md these reach from the bust to the
point of the hips, with the ends ad.
usted by hooks and eyes or by rows
If cloth-covered buttons.
Copyright. 1871 by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)
Good Hair Tonic.