davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18

US hope that the cutters OF this win
ter will have learned more than they
knew last winter. II they are going
TO attempt dozen instead OF two
varieties.
There Is the tight, directoire arm
hole that hugs the skin so that the
fronts OF the coat or bodice must be
perfectly adjusted in order that they
will not rise IN waves about the neck.
There is the long. loose Chinese
armhole which demands certain
lack OF contour In the bodice or
jacket.
There is the pear-shaped armhole
which extends to the waistline and
into which an elbow-length or three
quarter sleeve is usually placed. And,
topping the list OF comfortable arm
holes, is the one that belongs TO the
lining and not TO the bodice.
II you have had trouble with the
fit of your jackets and blouses be-
cause Of ill-cut armholes, remember
that this last type saves temper and
tears. When the sleeve is put into
the 'armhole OF the lining and the
outer material is allowed 10 drop
over il, moving with security and
freedom according TO the shifting OF
the shoulders. then you get the best
armhole that the American tailors
can achieve.
This Is the kind that is now in high
fashion. 1t is run well over the top
of the arm and up on the lining. in
order that there may be no revealing
OF the inside material when the
outer armhole swings to and fro.
Some dressmakers use band of en-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18

lbroidery or soutaching or ornamented
cloth of some kind over the lining
from the edge OF the armhole half
way to the 'front.' in order that the
eject is good when the outer arm
hole shifts.
The recognition given by the de-
signers 10 this armhole in the lining
has been the reason for an influx OF
sleeves made of different material
from the gown fabric and also in a
different color. Gowns Of dark blue
satin may have full Italian sleeves of
gray lace mounted over silver tissue
or gray chiffon and caught into the
wrist with q broad, cuirass cuff Of
the silver.
Street frocks OF heavy cloth Will
have long, tight sleeves Of braided
satin running from shoulder TO wrist
They do not make a shocking con-
trast in color. but depart from the
tone of the gown sufficiently to give
an artistic touch.
Another Touch OF Economy.
The French say that the elimination
of material rs done for economy. The
slip-on frock is done for comfort as
well as economy in these rushing
hours OF civic activity; and they in
slst that the separate sleeves, jumper
frocks, separate underskirts and diff
fering bodices and skirts in evening
gowns are also measures of economy.
The French may not realize the
dangers that beset the amateur who
trods in these paths OF rigid economy.
Patchwork quilts may be revived as
most effective coverings for early
nineteenth century beds, but they are
not effective coverings for late 1917
women.
Give woman q chance to use up
scraps in clothes and she will do IL. |
Ask her 10 use up scraps in food and !
she Will point to the full slop pail |
There are women who really buy an |
entire gown to use up four yards of |
leftover braid, and there are others |
who will get topcoat. a hat >and 4 |
blouse to go with q skirt that has !
hung in the closet for two seasons. All |
in the name of economy is this done |
when IL is nothing but high extrava-
gance and poor artistic Judgment.
Be that as It may. the truth about
the new fashions Is that woman may
use separate sleeves. a separate skirt, |
a tunic of another fabric and call the
result a fashionable frock. If she does
II well. it will be a good looking frock. |
The main idea that prevails is that
the slip, or what the French call a
millot, is made as the foundation of a
gown. 1t has sleeves attached to its
and its exposed ssurface
may be trimmed in whatever way a
woman wishes. Now, over this can be
worn a tunic that slips over the head
like a bit OF harness and adjusts itself
In the middle. or a jumper blouse and |
skirt can he attached TO tho lining
Economy lies in the fact that a
woman may have a dark blue. black or
beige colored millot or lining. with ito
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18
Broken ArrOlU

Rev. and Mrs. J. G. Reynolds are
making>a home mission tour thru the
southeastern part of the state In the
interests OF the Presbyterian church.
Miss Philiena Sprague made hur-
ried visit to Enid the first of this week
because of the illness of her uncle.
The senior class of the high school
will give a play, THE Mysterious
Hermit" next Thursday night.
Miss Ruby Boles of Muskogee is
here spending few days with her
sister, Miss Cherokee Boles.
Farmers are complaining of n
scarcity of water for stock. The wheat
is showing the effects of the contin-
ued drouth.
A committee Of young men were
canvassing the town this week to
raise the quota of S2,500 for the Y. NJ.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18

~ rushing by, one has strong
~ temptation TO reach out and
Il n grasp at the straws that are
swirling along on the top
eddies.
II Is a confusing season, this one OF
mld-autumn. when thousands OF
clothes are sent rushing down the
waters that flow thru the heart OF
social and commercial life, ma those
on the banks must watch and grasp
at details or co-ordinated masses or
color and line.
Standing on the bank and watching
the brilliant things borne down the
stream. one is strongly reminded OF
an alluring article by Mr.. Beebe, the
explorer. who has brought back 50
much that was worth while to the
geological knowledge in America.
Mr. Beebe rests quietly on a bank,
as he tells il by which passes a great
swiftly flowing stream which comes
from the heart OF the jungle and
which Is fun Of mystery and color
and splendid exotic life. The stream
has caught on its top current parts
OF this life. and as he studies. It,
kesnly and with knowledge, as 1t
swiftly goes by him, he Is able TO
form in his mind just what the life
OF that especial jungle Is Fauna and
fora go by. an opossum with It's
young, "A peculiar kind Of snake on u
log. bits Of wood that explain the tree
growth, birds that have been caught
I'm branches and cannot eXtricate
themselves On. on goes the colorful
stream. rushing past the flat mud
hank and explaining 10 the zoologist
and ornithologist the entire life and
personality OF the source from which
all these things come.
It is thus in fashions All the tu-
multi. the revolt, the color, the per-
sonality and the life Of n country
flow by in this semiannual stream OF
clothes that are symbols OF their
sources. And the one who stands on
the bank wants to reach out a hand
or throw ont 4 graphing pole. as Mr.
Beebe did and bring in for closer
observation the peculiar and particu-
lar things that can be developed into
whole chapter OF interest.
sleeves From Every Epoch.
Sleeves. for instance. There Is a
detail that one wants TO catch at with
a graphing pole, pull into the bank
and study for n week. They are rep
representative OF the history Of the
world. Each epoch seems 10 have
offered a peculiar phase of arm COW
ering for the designers TO incorpor-
ate into modern costumes.
We have the medieval sleeve which
opens after 1t leaves the elbow and
drops in n point TO the knee: we have
the Chinese sleeve whicr is roomy
enough for all the juggling we care
TO do; there is the tight sleeve OF
the directoire that fits into an over
snug armhole and stretches TO the
knuckles OF the hand; there is the
Italian sleeve that begins In an arm
hole that is nearly at the elbow and
wdens itself out in order that II may
drop In cloak-lIke folds TO the wrist.
where II Is caught into n band OF
white velvet or cloth.
There is the sleeve hat IL slashed
from armhole TO wrist. as Marguerite
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18

Miss Alltra NJ. writes: II have tried 4
number Of fat reducing remedies with no
avail. A friend tells me that your prescrip.
lion enabled her to reduce % pounds. Is II
Give grain arbol6ne tablets safe Tor me to
uSe~ ~hkevssot'
Answer: II the simple directions are fol.
lowed, five grain arbolone tablets are safe
in the reduction OF abnormal fat. Thousands
have been benefitsd that know Of.
c. NJ. c. asks: PLEASE relieve ne Of a
coated tongue, foul breath, headache con.
stipation and general III health"
Answer: II habitually eonstipated, you
should take three grain sulpherb tablets
(not sulphur) and arouse the organs which
eliminate waste material from your body.
These tablets purify the blood and improve
the health by acting on the liver, kidneys
and bowels. Obtain In sealed tubes with
full directions.
John G. asks: ''will you please tell a
young man how TO increase his weight i
am so thin that IL embsrssses mel
Answer: II you have no serious organic
trouble / believe the regular taking OF three
grain hypo. nuclene tablets will cause an in
Aefse In the weight Of you or anybody who
is abnormally thin. Don't expect TO do so
In a week or two. 1t takes time, but the
help i worth time and money too.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18
InDrOying,

Wife, think the cook Is improv-
ing. don't you?"
HusbaTd-Why at dinner tonight,
everything was bad but the coffee.
Wife-I know, but usually that's
bad, too.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18
The Doctors S
Advice
By DR.. LezUis Baker


ersl In character. he symptoms or diseases
are given and the answers viii apply In any
case Of similar nature.
Those wishing further advice free, may
address DR. Lewis Baker College Bldg, Col
lege Eiwood streets, Dayton, Ohio, enclosing
sell addressed stamped envelope for reply
full name and address must be given but
only initials or fictitious names viii be used
IA my answers The prescriptions can bo
filled al any well stocked drug store Any
druggist can order OF wholesaler.
John @ L. writes ~ find my natural
strength and nervous system falling me. l
do not recuperate Of yore Nv food and
rest seem not 10 benefit As they should Am
weak, de,ponden' and unable to perform the
duties which were assumed earlier In lie
whilo my ambition for work and pleasure
is slowly going"
Answer think a powerful harmless tonic
and nervino medicine will reiuvenate and re.
store the functions OF digestion, assimilation
and elimination by inyigoratng the nervous
system. Obtain three grain cadomene tab.
lets, packed in sealed tubes, and take as per
directions accompanying.
Morris" asks: 81 have suffered with
chronic cough for almost year, and catch
doctor gives me helps, so write to YOU"
Answer; You need a thorough laxative
cough syrup, one that not only relieves but
surely drives y from the system. The fol.
lowing regularly used viii oust any cough
or cold promptly: Obtain 2 y ounce bottle
OF essence mcntho-laxene Inla IA with a
homemade sugar syrup or honey ss per di.
rections on bottle.
J. W W asks: 'Can YOU prescribe re
liable treatment to get rid OF dsndrun, itch.
ing and feVerish scslpi'
Answer: ! know you caB get instant relief
and permanent results by using plain vel.
low minyol as per directions which accom-.
pany each fourounce Jar.
Henry J. c. writes; Something seems
TO be wrong with my system and / don t
know what 10 IL. ] have huge puffs under
my eyes, my eyes are bloodshot in morning
and my feet aud ankles are swollen Some.
times / have chills aud feel weak and tired
most OF the time
Answer Your eliminating organs such
AS liver and kidneys are in need of treat.
ment. Begin taking bslmwort tablets at
once. Get them In sealed tubes with full |
directions OF any wellS,ocked druggist.
NOTE, For many years DR.. Baker has |
been giving free advice and prescriptions to |
millions OF people through the press columns |
and doubtless has Helped In relieving illness
and distress more than any single Individual
in the worlds history. Thousands have
written him espressions Of gratitude and
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18
NEW SLEEVES REPRESENT STIRRING
EP0CHS IN THE WORLDS HISTORY

The slip-over gown wins above
its competitors because Of
its easy adjustment. The
separate skirt is the founda-
ton for different types of
Russian blouses. Transpar-
ent evening gowns are
dropped over tight fitting
satin slips that serve for a
variety Of outer coverings.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-11-18

6 THE current Of clothes goes
rushing by. one has a strong
temptation TO reach out and
grasp at the straws that are
swirling along on the top
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28

Charles Vose is at home from Hebron.
A naval recruiting party will be at the
custom house in Ellsworth, Wednesday,
Dec. 5.
Morris Bowden, jr., who Was 9. s.riously
injured last, Is .eport.d as raLioiy I'M
proving.
Sunday train service on the Mt. Desert
branch has been discontinued for the
winter.
George Foss and son franklin OF
Dexter are visiting Mr.. Foss' sister, Mrs.
A. W. Buzzell.
Wellington Haslam and family will
leave Monday for st. Petersburg, Fla, for
prices, the winter.
The board OF health reports no new
cases OF diphtheria this week, but several
suspicious" cases.
Merrill r. Head and Harvey w. Morang
have returned from short hunting trip
up river with two deer.
The firemen were called out this morn
Ing by chimney fire at the home OF Mrs.
Ida L. Sinclair. No damage was done.
Mrs. George b. Floyd and daughter
Lutte left Saturday for York, Me-, ex-
peetine to remain through the winter.
Ralph Cunningham, who enlisted in
the army and is now in the wireless SER
vice, has been home on a short furlough.
The November committee OF the ladies'
aid society will hold social in the vestry
OF the Baptist church Tuesday evening,
Dec. 4,
Maynard E. Strout, Everett Faivey,
Cornelius Shea, Emmons Shea aud Willis
Dunn, who are employed at Bath,
are at home for Thanksgiving.
f. J. Collins, for several years employe d
in the shoe department OF Z. L. Morang's
store, Will, about December l, open a new
shoe store in the Tapley block.
There will be union Thanksgiving SER
vice at the Congregational church to- NOR
row evening at 7.30. Rev. J. W. Tickle OF
the Unitarian church will deliver the
sermon.
Clerk Of Courts Mahoney has not yet
received the blanks and licenses for the
handling OF explosives, as required under
the new federal law. He is receiving
many inquiries as to why the licenses are
not received, and this is his answer.
Sheriff Wescott at Bucksport last week
seized seveuty-two dozen bottles OF jam
aica ginger, believed to be intended for
sale as an intoxicant. 1t was consigned
merely to Bucksport, with no name. 1t
has been confscated.
Percy A. Smith, a former resident OF
Ellsworth, oied al ~ hospital III Augusta
last Friday, at the age OF sixty four years.
For many years Mr.. Smith had been com
nected with the electric hgnL business IA
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28

the most widely read of the war. Baron
ess Huard, who turned her beautiful
home in the north OF Franc over to the
country as hospital. has been in this
country for some time, in aid OF the
hospital work. 1t is more tnan probable
that some Of our American boys in France,
perhaps some OF our own Ellsworth boys,
may be sent to this same hospital
Baroness Huard will speak III Ellsw orth
at Hancock hall Thursday evening, Dec.
13, telling Of her personal experiences in
the war-torn district OF northern France,
her flight before the invading Huns, her
return to her dismantied home after the
battle OF the Marns, and of the hospital
work in which she is now engaged. Her
talk will be illustrated by stereopticon.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
LOCAL AFFAIRS
NEW ADVERTISEMENTS raIs wEEh

Bijou theatre
The Burrill National BANK
Hancock Co Savings Bank
DR. Barbrick
Wood for sale
Liquor indictments
Notice = Appointment of executors, ad.
ministrators, guardians OF adults and con-
servators
Notice Of observation-disclosures Bridges
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
ELLSWORTH FALLS.

Joseph Patterson of Brewer spent Sum
day with friends here.
Lorenzo ID. Smith OF Amherst spent
sunday with his brother Charles.
Manfred McDevitt, who has employ-
ment in Boston, is home for a month.
Mrs. Mary d. Jordan suffered slight
shock last turdsy afternoon, at the
home OF her daughter, Mrs. Asa c. Flood.
Mrs Jordan's condition is improving. Her
two daughters, Mrs. George Black and
Miss Martha Jordan of Rangor. came
Saturday, Miss Jordan remaining and Mrs.
Black returning TO Bangor Sunday
evening.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
Wooster VS.. Eiske.

THE AMERICAN mace an annoying
blunder in last weeks issue III reporting
the rescript from th. law court in the
Wooster vs.. Fiske case, by terchanging
the name Of plaintiff and defendant, thus
giving an impression entirely opposite OF
the fact.
Mr.. Wooster was the plaintif in the
case, and the decision OF the law court in
both instances has been in his favor. In
he first case, Mr.. F'ske set upL l claim
OF puzzle WAY Mr.. Wooster's land,
auo IN the =. c"iid ase rettedup, ciain
OF right oil way. On Dol1 these points
the law court has deemed the evI 4ence
introduced by Mr.. Fiske insufficient to
support his claim.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
COMING EVENTS.

Wednesday evening. Nov. Is, at .san-
cock hall Masquerade bail by Senator
Hale bose con pany.
Thursday, Dec. 8, afternoon and eve-
ming at Congregational vestry sale and
baked bean supper. supper, 25 cents.
Wedne sdsy nd Thurs av, Dec. II and
13, at Baptist veslry Annual sale by
ladies' aid society.
Thursday evening, Dec. IS, at Hancock
bali : Illustrated ,clure ty the Baroness
Huard OF France, ithor OF my Home in
the Field oil HONOR Tickets, so cents.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28

The merchant rho does not advertise ~
a duh season makes Il more pToH'ao'< Jo'
those pho do aduertsse
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
Man and Wife Burned to Death.

Alexander Stanwood aud wife OF
Wyman. in the town OF Milbridge, were
burned to death yesterday afternoon in
their fishing camp at Dyer island, four
miles down the day. They were out in
their boat when they discovered the fire.
Mrs. Stanwood rushed into the burning
building to save some money, and her
her. They were about fifty years OF age.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28

survives her. She leaves three children
by her first marriage, son, Pearl, and
two daughters, Eleanor and Helen, all OF
Ellsworth. Another son, Shirley, was
lost at sea several years ago. She is sur
vived also by one sister, Mrs. Fred H.
Mcfarland, and q half brother, Leslie W.
Jordan. The funeral was held ut the
home this afternoon, Rev. r. H. Moyle
officiating.
Meetings Of the ladies OF the Red Cross
for work will be held during the winter
months in the Offices Of John F, Knowl-
ton in the Peters block. There will be no
meeting now until further notice, on
account OF lack OF supplies. Another
shipment OF finished articles will be made
this week. Those having finished articles
are requested to bring them in at once.
The articles are now being shipped direct
to the Red Cross Bureau OF Supplies, 1000
Washington street, Boston, Mass.
Acting on complaints OF the State bosrd
OF charities and correction, and Of Sea
Coast Missionary Macdonald, Sheriff Wes-
colt Saturday went to Little Deer Isle and
took the custody OF Elmer, the thirteen
year-old son OF Alfred Eaton, who, it was
claimed, was neglected and abused. The
father gave his consent, and the boy was
brought to Ellsworth by Sheriff Wescott,
fitted up with warm clothing and taken
Monday to the children's hone at Au-
gusta. In this connection il transplres
that there Is at present no agent for the
prevention Of cruelty to children in Han
cock county. The commission of Miss
Jullette Nckerson has expired, the
death of Mrs. Julia A. Chatto OF East
Surry removed another, and J. j. Roberts
OF Winter Harbor has commission, but
has sent in his resignation and declines to
serve.
The Ellsworth Liberty Loan committee
has received advices from headquarters
which explain why the Ellsworth allot-
ment of the second liberty bonds was
made so large, Ellsworth and the neigh
boring towns included in its district
being asked to subscribe to $555, 200 as a
minimum, about the same as asked of the
city of Augusta and its territory. A letter
showing how the allotment was made up
includes Eden in the Ellsworth territory.
with an allotment OF s27t 600. Eden. Of
cour.e. includes Bar Harbor. and its
an bscription went there. but at head
ou.rter. n was evidently the ;mnression
th.t kdep and Rar Hsrhor were sensrate
towns Dedpcting the so7, nm from the
allotment of Ss55 mn to ElIswortb. leaves
s2s4 mn and ss Ellsworth spbscribed
saal 4n0 IN the SECOND loan this d;strict
went .ovrr the tonn of w hat ,ts minimum
allotment should have been oy Sl07, 400.
Two E,,swortb how. hsv. rece;ved cop,.
m;ss,ops ,.om ,hs ots3crrs training 90 nr
,t p,sttshury v Martin Ina;ta Hal,
being commissioned first lieutenant ano
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
Mr.. Bunker Gets Full Term.

John E. Bunker OF Bar Hsrbor, Who has
been filling the unexpired term OF asries
w. Mullen on the public utilities COM
mission, has been nominated for full
term. The salary is a 800 year.
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
WEATHER IN ELLsw ORTIZ

For Week Ending st Midnight Tuesday,
Nov. 21, 1911.
From observations taken at the power
station of the Bar Harbor & Union River
Power Co., in Ellsworth. Precipitation is
given in inches for the twentyfour hours
ending at midnight
Weather Precip-
Temperature conditions itation
Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1917-11-28
SCHEDULE OF MAILS
AT ELLSWORTH posrorvIcK.
In effect, Sept. 30, 1917.

MAILS RECkIvED.
Week Days.
FROM WBsT-6.4l. 1146 m; 4.24 p m.
FROM EAsr-lll0 a m; 6.22 m.
MAILS CLOSE AT PosroPPIcR
GOING wEsr-Io.30 a m; $50 m.
GOING EAsT--e.l0 a m; 3.45 p m.
Sundays. Until Nov. 25)
Arrive from the west s.il q m. Closes for
west $50 p m.
Registered mail should be at postoffice half
an hour before mail closes.
The Robesonian. [volume] (Lumberton, N.C.) 1870-current, 1917-05-17
Germany Recognizes Increased Effic-
iency OF Allies in Destroying Sub

The increasing efficiency of the
Allies in submarine destruction was
recognized in speech by the Ger
man Secretary of the Navy in the
Reichstag on May 10. Official ac-
counts of the speech reaching Wash
1ngton report the German Secretary
as saying that while the submarine
warfare had achieved far greater re-
suits than was expected, a certain
number of submarines had been lost
as the result of improved means of
destruction devised by the Allies.
Another official telegram SAYS the
Berliner Tageblatt of May 9 COM
planned bitterly of the distractions
being placed by the government on
the progress of the committee for
discussing the system of government.
"The sittings Of the committee SO
far as known from the very meagre
reports" the account says, "make, on
those outside the committee, a highly
peculiar and painful impression. The
bureaucratic spirit of our govern
ment officials and their complete
strangerhood to the present task can
not hinder forever The abGolutely
necessary changes in the government
The government, however, need not
conceal from itself the fact that a
public disappointed after the mes
sage of the Kaiser will lead to very
serious consequences"