davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
HIGHLAND COSTUME
FOR SMALL GIRL
Made Of black velvet, white
lawn and green and black
checked skirt.

coverings? Some of them are shaped like
lace mts worn in the Civil War, with slash
at one side for the thumb; others are made
very much on the pattern of the knitted wrist
let desired by the Red Cross
This fashion has not spread over the con-
tinent quickly, and il is, therefore, offered to
all women who want to do the unusual IN
dress. Bits of fur may easily be used for these
wristlets, the lining may be quite gorgeous,
and If one affects color this wristlet of fur
may be rolled back at its top edge and made
to show the color beneath as it flares away
from the sleeve of the bodice or jacket over
which it is worn.
AS fashion these peltry wristlets are good
looking, and as a means of protection against
cold weather they are entirely admirable. They
are By no means confined to the smart classes,
but have been taken up by all the mass of wo-
men who go out early in the morning TO their
various activities either as professionals or as
volunteers. They are not substitutes for muffs,
but in connection with large neckpiece or
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02

Few women want to buy top coat or a
short, ripping jacket of fur which is not
built up in successive tiers of opposing pei
tries. For instance, a short cape coat of seal
skin has collar and cuffs of ermine edged
with black broadtai and there are huge but
tons of seal surrounded by broadtai and set
in gunmetal rims.
Where there is so much fur floating about
i- is quite natural that the odds and ends
of it should be utilized as long as fashion per-
mits women to put II on their clothes without
apparent design
Lovers knots, which have come into fash
ion again, are made of fur, for instance, and
attached to the cuffs, to the front Of the col
lar, and sometimes used as a substitute for
buttons down the front of velvet bodice or
a loose Russian blouse that is belted in with
peltry.
The sweeping demand for wrstlets which
has been made by the fighters has introduced
a new fashion in fur among women. Possibly
you have not seen these medieval bits of arm
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
Low Cost O. Luxurious Fabrics
This Year

in good condition for more than a year. And
while the cause of this is tragic, the necessity
for it is not only good test of character, but
the making of character in thousands Of
thoughtess and eXtravagant women.
There is nothing about medieval fashions
that is new to our minds, because we have had
them with US for three years, but there is
something in the reason for their present
acceptance that amuses when 1t doesn't dis
tress US
The tunic is on every side, and it is grdled
with fur and strung with beads in somewhat
the fashion presented by a courtier in the reign
of Richard ii when he strolled in his gar
dens of flowers. There arc tunics such as
were worn in the twelfth, thirteenth ana four
teenth centuries, which are not only exceed
ingly lovely, but which crafty the person who
likes color and line in a way that the conven-
tional shirtwast is incapable of doing.
II is unwise to cut a woman off at the waist
line Even on a slim figure the effect is far
from good Maybe when eighteen incnes was
the average waist for woman, and her clothes
were pulled down into severe lines the white
shirt waist was not ugly as 1t Is to-day;
but our decision 10 accept the straight line,
the large waist and the careless manipulation
of our clothes on the skeleton make il difficult
for a woman to look well in a shirtwaist
unless it shows only at the neck under her coat
suit. Even then a corselet of some kind gives
a better effect.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02

CILVER lace is said to be easier to obtain
than table linen, and it costs less. Peltry,
it is claimed is got with greater ease and
at a lower price than leather for shoes. Velvet
frocks and silk underwear are within the price
OF the small wage Garner, whereas cotton stock
ings are an extravaganza rarely INDUCED in.
All Of which goes TO explain the fact that
women may be dressed in the splendid fabrics
Of Elizabethan days and still feel that they
cannot afford their ordinary number of shoes
and that they must give up underwear that
needs starch.
The dressmakers insist that it will be a win
ter Of barbaric clothes, or, rather, medieval
clothes representing the days when houses were
cold, when the men servants went TO war in
stead Of remaining TO serve food, when the
adorable Countess Of Jersey had TO milk her
own COWS while she was dressed in Burgundy
velvet and had her hair plated with silken
cords.
We must wear what We can get, we must
eat when we can find and afford, and, therefore,
we may present the piquant contrast of being
clothed in silver lace, Burgundy velvet, belts,
armlets and hats Of ermine, and yet be rub
bing oil into our shoes in order TO keep them
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
Some Flashes From Early Winter
Fashions
Fashions

Festoons of lace are arranged ruiiie Ike on
some Of the new silk petticoats.
Much millinery is shown in brown yelyes
Whether the dye situation or the swing,hs
pendulum of fashionable taste is respons'oss
for this popularity nobody knows. Az o.
events brown is one Of the esst cOlOrs OF '''
winter.
Leather belts are widely used in taiorma0'
suits and frocks.
Although Sam Browne belts are taoood ~
some sections as far as soldiers apparei 49,
they are increasingly popular for women. in.. -.
are sold inexpensvely and give the niuen -, =.
sired military aspect TO the young girls '"''
costume.
Pongee silk, now that it is 50 dlincun ~ -
get silks of European manufacture Is MT NJ.
and more used and predictions are MADE wv
it will be in great demand next spring
Paamas are made in many eolors. osuss.
they are in the lighter shades, but is,ehs,.i .,i
pink and rose violet, green, mustard Color "a
blue are all used for these sleeping garHrsss~,
Very often two colors are combined. v.s .t
underwear seems TO be an accomplished ia
Il has been designated by some makers nsSs
color for Service underwear. AS " = T,.~s
I'D in Georgette and satin as well as 10 ~ ~
it can hardly be called eminentiy sef'''''
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02

nEAD trimming is widely used on many
X frocks and blouses of Georgette crepe.
One especially lovely afternoon frock is
made of gray Georgette, with deep overskirt
edged with an inch-wide band of blue bead
embroidery. The round necked bodice and the
long, loose sleeves are likewise edged with the
same banding.
Flaring ornaments made of feathers OF
iridescent colorng are used on some Of the new
velvet hats.
Flame color is coming in for much attention
this season, especially for evening wraps and
gowns. 1t is lovely color especially in velvet
or in net or Georgette.
Deep hens Of fur are used on frocks of thin
material
Young girls frocks of serge or some other
heavy fabric are shown with pique collars. On
frocks for women the white collar has been TO
a large extent replaced by collar of colored
-oiO.ea oe0rgette or chiffon. Dull
blue is much used for collars for navy blue
frocks.
Umbrellas Of colored silks are gaining more
and more popularity as the days become longer
and darker Blue, green, red and purple are
the colors most often seen.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
The Blouse Of the Hour
Is the Peasant Type

The second fact of Importance in fashS,
which was stated in the beginning Of hb
story is the furtherance Of economical Msss
in dress by joining together whatever mater
ais one likes to accomplish a suit or a frock.
In this one respect fashion has turned 4
somersault over the intervening decades b.
tween fashion that was and fashion that
is. Those who were shrewd enough to for.
tell a scarcity of worsted materials in tie
world warned us that a season would soon
break in which the uniform line Of color sn
fabric from chin to ankle must be abandoned
That hour has approached more rapidly thak
even the prophets foretold. At the moment We
were rot aware that there is any exasperatirg
need Of such economy, but preparedness is The
best way 10 face an approaching truth.
Therefore, the world Of dressmakers has
given women TO understand that it is no long.
er necessary to have a coat that matches a
skirt or a blouse that matches either, no nat.
ter for what occasion the costume is INTENDED
Even for the most ceremonial hours, such a
the opera, dinner or dance, there are blaek
and colored velvet skirts with bodces ths,
are as remote from the skirt as though they
had been bodily lifted from another costume.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
, Phrase Applied to Women's Appearance

or cloth of gold set with colored crystals an
not few Of the new French clothes strong,
suggest the anklet by having the drapery q
the skirt pulled into the ankle and fas.eni.,
it there with a jewelled band.
Now, the wide anklet Of fur, lined MI,
satin or crepe de chine, would be proteetio,
worth having in cold weather, and the wona,
who insists upon wearing low shoes on win.
ter days might find fascinating new fass.
ion in drawing attention 70 them by addu,
a ten-jnch anklet Of seaskin above the instso
covered with its silk stocking. Let some fun.
rier take it uD and see how women accept Il.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
"Pelted With Peltry" Is P

"WO important facts stand out in the
fashions for winter which have just
n begun their career. The extraordlnar!
display Of peltry is one, and the JuXtapoS'''o"
of different materials is the other.
The first fashion spells extravaganza; the
second stands for economy. 1t is the latter
in which the great majority Of women should
be more interested but with that delightful
inconsistency which makes the sex charm
ing they pay more attention to the eX'raVa-
caut fashion and allow it to absorb the bet
ter part Of their thoughts on dress
The last savage instinct to exist in woman
is her desire for pieces Of fur to adorn her
person. There was once a time when peItrE
belonged to winter and was needed for pro-
lection. and this excuse was used by every
woman who could filch money from the house
Keeping allowance to buy bit of fur to go
about her neck; but this fiinisy excuse has
faded into the background since it has been
the fashion to be as prolific with fur IN not
weather as in cold weather
Much of the interest in clothes has been
weakened, from an artistic point of view, by
the refusal of women to regard the impor-
tance Of dressing in a seasonable manner.
When summer had its clothes and winter
produced those that belonged to itself there
was a sharp contrast in feminine apparel.
The shops made money by it, the women were
made comfortable about it, and they took to
themselves something Of the joyous changes
of Nature and presented the green leaf and
the white snow as pleasing contrasts.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
GIittering Corselets
OF JeweIled Net

These bodiceS are usually of iewelled net, and
they glitter like that famous corselet once worn
by a great beauty of France, who, in the hour
Of her highest social and financial trump.
in the primrose path, put together all the
Jewels that men had given her and covered
the upper part of her figure with them. These
crystal bodices are not especially expensive,
and there are many thousand dollars worth
of difference between them and the corselst Of
Merode but they give much the same effect
These corselets, by the way, are not always
attached to one skirt They are mounted On
a fAted lining, and satin, velvet or broesded
skirt can be placed below them.
For the house and for all manner Of usage
under coat there is another kind of separate
bouse which is, at last serious rival to
the white shrt%aist.
There is nothing new in it. 1t has been
worn ior centuries by the peasants Of every
country 1t was adopted in America by nj
noriy of women over a year ago, but II Is
now offered as the most pleasing contrast to
a skirt that has nothing in common with Il
rs far as texture and color 90.
1t may be argued that separate shirtwase
provide the excuse for wearing a separate
skirt, but the majority of women have learned
that the peasant house is a more graceful
garment than a wash h!ouse that ends at the
waistline and freaks the figure at the very
point where it should be smoothed over and
fattened.
1t is quite easy TO see how they simplify
dressing. They are made of soft, coorfuI
fabrics the lining may be added or dispensed
with, they manage to blend with any kind Of
separate skirt that the wardrobe affords, and
they permit woman to remove her coat 81
luncheon in the afternoon, which was per-
mission not given by the separate white shirt
waist
The universally of the topcoat and the oe'
creasing popularity of the tailored suit q"
other factors that promote the growth and oe'
velopment of this blouse Of the hour, wnSA
after all, is return to primitive things.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
Where Summer Furs
Originated, and Why

Over in Europe, however, the women TOOK
IL into their heads to keep to the same KIND
of clothes throughout the twelve months, mere
" because one or more summers over there
were distinctly colder than they had been and
the temperature demanded suitable apparel
Here in America, where the summers are as
hot as in the tropics, the women grasped the
European fashion, regardless of its lack OF
suitability to our climate, and wore velvet hats
and foxes about their necks under the beating
afternoon suns of August
At the beginning of this fashion the shop
keepers were its most persistent advocates
They saw chance to release every garment
in their stock without having to hold it over
through the season; but commercial optimism
on this point has shown signs of leaking out
for the reason that women find that they are
not compelled by the seasons to buy new
clothes and that uniform dressing throughout
the twelve months of the calendar permits
them to economic whenever necessary.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
(To the Right

pockets which correspond with the hem on
the skirt.
The millners have made hats of fur in
patchwork fashion. A turban of yellow will
have brown spots on it; a laring brim of
sealskn will be attached to a crown of ermine
which has medallion of seal on top; bee
hive hat Of black velvet will have bands made
from three kinds of fur running around the
base of the crown to end in a lovers knot at
the side.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
Pelting Women
With Peltry

The appearance of group of women on
the street on a cool morning suggests that
some dynamic force has been pelting them
with pieces of fur in hit or miss fashion
There is no plan of action running through
tbe scheme of dressing. Wherever a piece of
fur has hit frock there it remains. 1t may
he on the head the waist, the ankles or the
back.
Unless one sees through observing eyes that
find amusing episodes in the use of new fash
ions by women, one may not see this peculiar
effect that a large number of women pro-
duce, spotted as they are by the hide of every
animal that can be caught and killed. car
toonist has called them "a human menagerie,
with the occupants walking to and fro clam
oring loudly for what they want"
The effect Of a menagerie would be better
produced if women contented themselves with
one garment of peltry and covered their fig
ures with it from shoulders to ankles, but
thev have turned their attention to pieces of
peltry that can be attached to the costume
wherever there might have been a space
There are swinging panels at the sides of
skirts which are edged with fur; there are
immense collars with wide, separate wristlets
Of fur used on blouses and coats; there are
Jackets which have fur peplums or a fur panel
down the back; there are other coats that dis
play waistcoats of peltry and, possibly, patch
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
THE
SLENDER
TRAIN

a fur cape they provide enough warmth 10
a coat suit against low temperature.
By the way, why does it not occur to some
furrier to revive the ancient anklets OF fur!
We have become quite obsessed with the idea
of going to museums to get suggestions Tor
modern clothes from ancient and sometimes
savage rainnent, and as long as we are copy
ing the designs of the Incas, reviving the en-
broidery of the Filipino, copying the porcelalns
Of China, adopting the armlets OF ancient
Egypt why should we not take up the furry
anklets that we see in comic opera when 1t
has been placed on the shores Of the South
Sea Islands?
Anklets have already been exploited by
dancers, but they were made Of jewelled lace
New-York tribune., 1917-12-02
DRECOLL
STREET SUIT

Black velvet en-
broidered in red
and trimmed with
sealskin, W h c h
shows the new
short jacket with
cape back.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
CITY NEWS.

Next Saturday Dollar Day in Keo-
kuk.
Walt for Dollar day to buy your
coffee at less than wholesale.
Closed Wednesday, religious Holt
day. Wait for Thursdays interesting
special sale. Lowitz.
Frank K. Michael and Winifred J.
Eid were married yesterday by James
s. Burrows, justice Of the peace.
Regular meeting Colfax Rebekah
lodge No. 4, tonight. Hannah Schaef-
er, n. G.; Anna Perdew, recording
secretary.
In the district court decree Of
divorce and restoration of her maiden
name of Grace Hamilton, was granted
Grace Marlin from J. B. Marlin.
Our line of famous Betty Wales
dresses will be on display about next
Saturday. Justice-Hoar Co.
Regular meeting Loyal Order OF
Moose, Keokuk lodge No. 704, tonight
at 8 o'clock. in Moose hall. Visiting
brothers cordially invited. Ed. G..
Vaughan. dictator.
The Upper Mississippi River Inn
provement association will meet in
Winona, Mimi. October II and IL. The
Keokuk Industrial association and the
city have both been asked to send
delegates to the meeting.
The Gate City will regret 1t IL
some Of the merchants are disappoint-
cd IN not getting their Dollar Day
advertisements In the paper, but num-
erous appeals have been made re-
qucsting copy early. Should there be
II will not be the
fs mir Of Tho Gata CITY
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25

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The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
CITY NEWS.

Saturday, Sept 2e-Dollar Day.
Closed Wednesday, religious holi-
day. Wait for Thursdays interesting
special sale. Lowitz
Dance given by Warsaw six-piece
Jazz orchestra, Odd Fellows hall
(Warsaw. Ill) We'd, Sept 16, 1917.
Admission SOC. Ladies free Dane
ing from $3.50 until ~ o'clock. Car
will be held It'll 1890.
j. A. Dunlap of Keokuk is coun-
ty chairman for Lee county for the
second Liberty loan fund campaign.
o. F. Fryer is chairman of district
number II and J A. S. Pollard Of Fort
Madison is vice chairman for the dis
trict
Dollar Day, Saturday, September
i29.
Basement Dept: New s1.0O to
$3.50 waists, petticoats, middies.
kimonas, house dresses. anrons. flan-
nellette gowns, children's dresses and
hats, dolls. silk and muslin, under
wear corsets, etc, just received from
New York. Lowitz.
1t will be a great day for bar.
gains in Notwithstanding. Sept. 20.
About Dollar Day in Keokuk:
Nearly all of the merchants will offer
some special bargains in their store
for those who participate in this great
buying event, but these specials do not
represent all the pleasure OF buying of
the Keokuk merchants. You must ex-
anime their large and varied lines to
get an idea OF the splendid merchan-
disc that is in the stores for your in
ispection. Saturday, Sept. 29-Dollar
Day.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25

Hunted
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The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
Roosevelt to Speak.

CHICAGO, Sept. 25.-Theodore
Roosevelt will arrive here tonight for
a series Of speeches that will include
an address in the yards" where he
opened his campaign to arouse the
middle west to an appreciation Of the
war last spring.
The stock yards address will be
given under the auspices of the Ma
tional Security league tomorrow night
Roosevelt will also make short
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
CITY NEWS.

Our busiest dept New suits and
dresses and waists daily from New
York. Lowitz.
--ReGular meeting Of Morning Star
lodge. No. 5, Knights of Pythias, Tues
day evening. at o'clock. Visiting
members inxited. H. A. Brunat, e.
c.: J A. burgess. x. Of r s.
The campaign for the second Lib.
erty loan will open October l and
close October 21- Wednesday, DC.
tober "a. will be celebrated as Liberty
day throughout the country. Arrange
ments will be made TO hold patriotic
meetings on that day in every city
town, and village. Full details Of the
next Liberty loan will be issued as
soon as possible after the passage by
congress Of the pending bond bill.
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
PERSONALS

Kaot,,,aa and Mrs. Charles A. Sears of
next ua WIN arrive. in Los Angeles
Mrs TSeS 10 be, the guests of MIR, and
tour,,a fe =. Wedler. They have been
weeks On .ne northwest for several
iod n sna expect to spend a like ner.
iou N southern California " 'ifNe per
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25
PERSON AIS

Mrs. Ernest Best and little daugh-
ter, Odelia May. Of Clarinda, Ia, are
spending a few weeks with Mrs.
Pests parents, Mr.. and Mrs. Chas
Nagel
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25

Mrs. william Spencer and children
Of Royal OAK. Mich. are visiting the
formers parents. Mr.. and Mrs.. John
Vogel, 17lz Bank street
The daily Gate City and constitution-Democrat. (Keokuk, Iowa) 1916-1922, 1917-09-25

speeches. at Fort Sheridan, the Grea,
Lakes naval training station anu
Camp Grant, Rockford, Ill. He WIZ
go from here to Racine. Wisconsin
md Minneapolis.
Elko independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 1915-current, 1917-11-03

would almost want to be in the hos
pital in order TO get into the garments.
But then nothing is too good for the
boys at the front, and what is being
done for them here is nothing com
pared 10 what they are doing for us.
II we could only return even half TO
them We would have only returned Il
small bit in comparison. The garments
sent in by the auNiliaries have been
very beautifully made, and none OF
them have been sent back. The rules
are so strict in the making OF gar.
ments that If the buttons are not right
or the tape too low or too high. they
have 10 be returned to be corrected.
But so far the auxililrcs have been
sending in such good work that none
OF it has been returned so far.
The Elko County Chapter will send
two boxes away this week. 30 Il OF
hich are already male up. These
boxes are made up oi the articles sen:
IN by the Contact, JdrbiGge, Wells.
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