davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

that belong to coat skirts strictly for
street wear
She he's made the top Of the skirt
over each hip exceedingly wide by
arranging kind OF slit-pocket effect
and then pulling the fulncss of the
skirt tightly around the legs below
this outstanding drdpery.
Again she plcats the skirt at the
belt and takes the fulncss from the
pleats as II leaves the knee line into
a wide. stitched hem or a series OF
stitched bands that reduce the width
10 yard and half at the lower
edge
She has made an entirely plain
sklt and thoa attached panels Of
loose plcating at the sides of the
walstlinc and let them drop to the
Knee Inc. where they are loosely
tackled and swing outward as the
Wearcr walks
Nearly all Of these effects are
worked out i'm one piece froclts rather
t, than In coat suits, because Franco has
put most of her originality into the
former and almost ignored the latter
! But the American tailors. quickly
seillng the opportunity for a now sill
| houcttc. have made their skirts for
street suits and even for sport usage
with the cN>'nded fullncss between
| the hips and knees. They have al
most abandoned the skirt that fits
the figure, and they have not ac-
copted the old fashioned hohhlc skirt
which clngs to the figure. showing
every line and curve NO matter how
| narrow the skirt is at the hem. there
is freedom OF line and movement he
tween the waist and knees. which
constitutes graceful line. and which
is rs ,t should be.
In opposition to these skirts there
is the new Egyptian skirt which many
If the designers over here think IS
the smartest touch of the season The
skirt is really taken from early Egyp-
ton apparel. II is knife plcatcd 10y
machine and hangs plumb from waist
to hem. 1t is exceedingly narrow and
m2de Of soft materials It is from
two to four inches longer than the
extreme skirts of last winter, and
with the new Kind of coat that is
sometimes attached to it, which is "a
stralght-up-a do wu. primitive ar
fair, the silhouette is that of an Alex
andrian woman of high fashion, B. G.
The Alc>andrian Tunir.
Jenny, Bulloz. Cheruit and several
other designers are responsible FOR
another kind of early Egyptian gar
mcnts in the loose tunic. which is
bcltcd in a. the waistlinc, made of
transparent ana oolorful fabrics, and
lavishlN heaped with embroidery in
beads. paillettCs and silk floss
The Introduction of this garment
oocs not strike one as particularly
new, for we have worn the tunic i'm
one form or another for two seasons
but Wher the new version Of IT Is
III oppcd over narrow or a straight
pleated skirt ana made in its most
approved manner it takes on diff
fercnt aspect from the tuncs of other
days.
II is ,ut somewhat in the manner
of Chinese kimono, and the ma
tcrial is so flmy that it falls against
the skirt without ungraCeful fullncss.
The buyers have brought out subtle
shades of coloring for these tunics.
and the embroiderers have introduced
old methods of needlework. such as
shadow scallops in gold and silver,
with symbolic designs Of Egypt in
terra-cotta and turquoise blue.
The woman who has a good skirt
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

and color, and cut much shorter in
front than in back. The shortuess
comes exactly in the middle OF the
font, IN the shape Of point or a
rounded scallop.
At first 1t made its appearance on
evening gowns, but since the Ameri-
can designers have gotten hold of the
French clothes and are modifying and
turning thcm out in slightly altered
shape this hem, which is uplifted In
the middle Of the front has appeared
on sport suits, on street suits and on
cloth and satin afternoon gowns
The cuff hem, as II Is called, /
quite at the top Of the fashion. 1t Is
strange that an accessory like this
the upturned band-should make
such a strong appeal to the majority
Of designers as well as to those who
do not create gowns. II is on hats
capes. topcoats and even shoes, shop
ping bags and gloves.
AS an offset to a colorless gown. II
is "a very attractive idea. Take
pleated, white crepe meteor skirt, for
bright green taffcta at the hem, add
Ia short green taffeta sport coat
green stockings and white shoes, and
You arrive quickly at an interesting
and artistic color scheme for sprlns
days in The open.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

for afternoon or evening wear may
lind these AlcNandrian tuuics JOY
and blessing. Immediately after
their exhibition ono woman who had
a plcatcd skirt Of oyster white satin
from the French looms of exquisite
quality dropped over it one of these
rgyptlan tunics in remarkable
shade of Nile green framed with
bands of Egyptian blue chiffon. she
made the embroidery IN old silver
threads ana touched up the edges
with strings of turquoise beads She
girdled II with silver. and it was the
success of her wardrobe.
Jenny brings out number Of thcsc
tunics that reach TO. and sometimes
below, the knees. They are of chif-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

Embroidery has grown. instead o
decreased. in power. The majority oi
FcnCh gowns have some kind o
nccdlcwork on the surface, showinf
that Paris intends TO support IT.
women thousands OF whom are OF
the government stipend of frame .
dav given to those whose husbands
are under the colOrs.
Tncrc is embroidery in worsted
thread, in bullion thread, in cut steel
and IN paillcttes of all kinds and
coIors Whether or not American
viii ciro for these metal cmbroidcric:
during oUr humid sn"'ucr is a uues
r"u for tho future lut tho inpo rter'
hsN, brought over f'ou' France hun
drcds or gowns that show this klnc
Gf land work
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

There is an attempt to revert to
meGicNalism in the ornamenting OF
gloves They are embroidered with
tirsnled threads. with the monogram
In colored crystals and they have
rdrntlots attached TO velvet fingers,
tho former covered with an embroid
cry done in tinscl The designs are
taken from the gloves worn by men
and women at the time when Eliza
both was queen of England and Cath
crime de Medici reigncd in France.
Looking at some Of the heavily EN-
hroidcrrd gauntlet gloves. one think
of the sinister intrigucs In the o.
world which sometimes led to SUD
den death thru the poisoned glove
thnt wyrc eorgcously embroidered ant
sent as Gifts
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01
AN APPEAL TO wives

You know the terrible affliction
that comes to many homes from the
result of drinking husband or son.
You know of the money wasted on
Drink that is needed in the home
to purchase food and clothing. OR
RINE has saved thousands of drink
ing men. It is home treatment No
sanitarium expense. Can be given
secretly. We are in earnest when we
ask you to give ORRlNE trial You
have nothing TO risk and everything
to gain, for your money will be re-
turned If after trial you fail to get
results from ORRINE.
ORRINE is prepared in two FORMS
No. /. secret treatment: ORRlNE No.
2. the voluntary treatment. Costs only
S1.OO n box Ask us for booklet.
Rexall Drug store, 11S South Main
stl Get. Tulsa, Okla.-Adv.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

ION and tullc, and sometimes in the
thin gau2e tissue that has been re
NNcd from the looms Of the thirteenth
century.
The Hem short in Front.
ihorc is no striking novelty about
the hem OF a skirt being shortened in
front for Callot has insisted upon
this irr'eularity for several seasons.
and two years ago was aided and
ohettcd hy Prcmct, who insisted on
making skirts that were as irregular
iu their hang is those of Gypsy or
Indian maiden.
The present hem. which is narrow.
is sometimes ornamentcd by an up-
turned cdff made of another fabric
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01
LACK OF NOVELTY
AT PARIS OPENINGS

The Majority of Women Con-
cerned Over Drastic Change
in the Silhouette - The
Pleated Skirt of Early
Egyptian Fashions Is Re-
vived and Accepted-Hems
Shorter in Front than Back
Primitive TUNES in Re-
markable Colors Worn Over
Separate Skirts for the
House - No Lessening of
Lavish Embroidery.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

cauot and Rodicr together nave
combined in introducirg q now colot
mtu our spring ccstum.rN Reporters
in paris says that the secret was
guarded until the very moment thai
the mar"opuins filed into the freezlne
room sof Callots great nov palace
II :, collcd CLAIMANT rose, and l.
taken from, the Asiatic bird Who's
hrilIi,nt pumago shades from PINS
70 red
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01

ne wsilhouette has infected the whole
loaf of American styles.
About the middle of March the
skirt that flared and the skirt tha.
was tGil were both shelved by the
women who tried to keep in touch
with what was being done. If Amer
ica had allowed France to hold this
card and play 1t at the right time in
the game, we would have been in a
state Of high excitement. showering
congratulations upon nation that
could compel people to buy new
clothes instead of altering old ones
The American buyers. however.
stung into unusual midsoason action
by the stupendous prosperity of the
wealthy class, shuttled across the
ocean. lodging dangers, to persuade
Iaris to give them something new
and interesting. Paris was persuaded.
She had the oval silhouette in her
mind all her designers had agreed
upon it, and, because she needed
money. she pulled the card from the
pack, put it on the table, and the
game was over
And vet, among the masses. after
ALL make a fashion worth while II
nancially, the drastic revolution in
the silhouette has Just begun to take
good effect. The buyers and report
ers saw nothing strikingly new in the
exhibition of Paris fashions during
the month of March, but now. on the
first of April. the women all over the
continent are seriously taking into
consideration the acceptance of the
hobble skirt.
Again the Ifobblc Skirt.
There is no use dwelling at this
hour on the fashion of the oval sill
houette. You have all read and heard
about 1t until you are probably weary
of the subject as theory, but in
tensely interested when it suddenly
appears as a necessity for you to ac-
cept or to refuse. Well. it is well for
you to accept the hobble skirt, for
that is the only name that can really
be given to the prevailing pattern
which is held in to less than two yards
at the hem.
The more debatable question is
how this hobble skirt should be
achieved Here are some OF the ways
that France has done It in her new
gowns:
She has cut the skirt In melon
shaped cores, but this is not fire.
quent trick. 1t 10 used in some skirts
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01
.HE first of March and the first

J" HE first of March and the first
of April bring about CON
l. tlnued, but separate. discus
sion of new clothes This hap
pens every year as sure as the calcn-
dar marks the months.
ON the first of March those of US
who are intensely Interested in the
new fashions as a source of industry
ana merchandise on IA great scale dis
cuss and digest, If possible, the clothes
which Paris has shown to the Ameri-
can buyers during the month of Feb
ruary.
These clothes do not arrive in
America until after the first of
March, and those of us who go over
to France to see the openings feel. by
the time the first of April arrives,
mat they are an old story. But this
Is only true of the people who arc
directly interested i'm the reporting
and merchandising of clothes. The
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-01
Economy

Economy.
"Wh9t makes you walk on llptoe
II don't want to make the cool,
nervous. She is peeling potato ana
her hand might slip"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
MASONIC QUARTET TO
FURNISH NUMBERS AT
MRS. PEATS LECTURE

A number of vocal selections will
be rendered by the Masonic quar-
tet preceding the lecture on WON
en- in the War Zone" delivered by
Mrs. Harold Peat Tuesday evening
at the Elks' temple. The quartet
is composed OF c. o. Kruger. Har-
~ Barnes. Or. T p. Meyer and
Dr. F. d. Hager. The opening num-
bers will be THE BOYS OF the Old
Brigade" and "Our Flag"
The meeting will be closed with
a patriotic song by the audience,
led by Mrs. Harry Barnes, soprano,
and Mrs. ]. Tompsett, contralto.
While in the city Mrs. Peat viii
be the guest OF Mrs. B. D. Coon.
625 " Main 81.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
The Housewives Economy Calendar
BY Francs H1A<~hnB-

letin board put up in your kitchen.
1t can be simply a square of plain
pine wood, neatly finished with
molding and fastened in place on
the wall The usual recipes you
can write in very clear handwriting
on cards and fasten them in the
board with thumb tacks.
One of the rules that you will
need most often is the rule for max
ing the various sorts of white sauce.
Do not depend on your memory for
this. You know there are four or
five different sorts Of white sauce.
varying from one that is very thick
and rich TO one that is very little
thicker than rich cream. Any re-
cipe book will give you the rules
for the proportions Of -four, butter,
milk or water for these various
sauces.
other recipes you will want 10
refer to often are these: Plain
cake, various breakfast mullins,
methods for cooking breakfast ce-
reals, pie crust, baking powder bis
cults, mayOnnaise dressing, meat
loaf, fritter batter, and at least for
the period of the war, several good
recipes using cornmeal. often you
can clip these from the newspapers
or women's magazines, paste them
neatly on the board with thumb
tacks.
Copyright, 1910
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
Daily Talks By Mary Pick ford
CHOOSING \ HUSBAND.

Which do you think would make
the better husband p" queried a girl.
a dark man or a fair one? / have
two beaus. and I'm not sure which
1 like best. but I suppose I Will,
eventually, care more for one than
for the other. Which ought 1 20 care
for?"
You viii agree with me, daily
talk" friends, that my questioner is
not in love. as yet. with either OF
the men. If she were, she would
never think of the color Of his hair.
or, indeed. whether or not ne had
any. I know a girl who was so much
in love with a man that she never
even knew that he had quite a
good sized bald place on the top OF
his head. until her father and moth
er called her attention TO il. True,
my friend is a tiny thing, and so
had not many opportunities for see
ing what the top Of her fiance's
head looked like.
Well, 20 go back TO the problem
OF which would make the better
husband, a fair-haired or a dark
haired man, I don't see how any
body can split hairs over so serious
a~questiOn. IL doesn't matter one bit
whether the man has black, golden,
red, white hair, or none at all, pro-
vided the man. himself. is all right.
If you contemplate marrying one
Of your admirers begin to study
them, now. before love blinds your
eyes and you become unable TO dis
Germ faults in the man Of your
choice. Notice whether he is unvary-
ing in his respect toward your par
ents, yourself, and all women. A
man who is not respected toward
women Will not make a good hus-
band. And observe his temper. Find
out whether he has a lovable dis
position. A man who cannot conceal
unpleasant traits before he marries
a girl, viii not try 10 conceal them
afterwards
Another important thing 10 no
tice, is whether your admirer is a
spendthrift or is provident in his
ways. Don't mistake folly for gener-
osity, or call a thrifty man "stingy."
sure you pick out a man who can
furnish the cottage nicely and keep
the pantry full. And then I suggest
that You select a man whom you
! know to be temperate. Some of the
best-hearted and most brilliant men
in the world are often Incorporate.
BE careful not TO marry an intern
perate man. The habit is one that
grows, and not many wives can in
duce their husbands TO take a
cure" and stay cured" The safest
plan is not to marry a man who
needs a cure.
This matter is one worthy Of care
full investigation. I know Of a very
prominent woman, a widow, who
has had great experience in the So
cial and financial world. When she
married a second time she chose a
friend whom she had known for
eight years. and whom she had
! seen in his own home on the oc-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
BUMPER CROPS
FOR THE YEAR
Corn, Oats, Potatoes, Rice,
Sugarbeet and Tobacco
Plentiful in World.

WASHINGTON, Nov. 26.-Bump-
er world crops of corn, oats, pota-
toes, rice, sugar beets and tobacco
for this year are shown by estimates
compiled at the International Instt-
tute Of Agriculture at Rome, made
public today by the department Of
agriculture. Wheat, rye, barley and
flaXseed, however, have fallen below
the five-year average Of production
from 1911 to 1915.
The production OF wheat in II
countries not including the central
powers, will be 1,868, 10000 bushels,
S5.6 per cent of the five-year aver
age. Corn raised Will amount 10 g.
312, 100000 bushels, which is 1916
per cent greater than the average
production for the last five years.
other crops are estimated as fol-
lows:
Rye. 100000 bushels; 1922 per
cent.
Barley. 58loOo.ooO bushels; 90
per cent.
oats, 2,ss2,OOOOOo bushels; 1879
per cent.
Rice. 7O.oOO.oOO bushels; 1853 per
cent
F'laxseed, 3s,OOO,oOO bushels; 6s.s
per cent.
Potatoes. 719.OOo.OoO bushels;
112.4 per cent.
Sugar beets, 100000 short tons:
1866 per cent.
Tobacco. 1,186,OOOOOO pounds;
1905 per cent.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26

casion OF visits Of a week or two in
length TO his mother Naturally.
she thought that she knew all about
this mans habits and she felt that
she was picking a husband who
was capa bic Of managing her large
interestsand who would relieve her
Of all future care regarding her
business. Imagine the shock that
she received when married life dis
closed the fact that this brilliant
man was an inebriate, who had
married her for her money and who
treated her with cruelty The man
never attempted 10 attend to any
Of her business interests. He mere
ly spent his time at the clubs and
in various amusements, and simply
called on her for checks. y few
years Of this sort Of thing led to
the divorce court. So, you see, it is
worth while 10 take trouble 20 in
vestigate a mans habits before mar
riage and not discover them in an
avalanche afterwards A man can
hide from his mother and his friends
the extent of his intemporence, for
they do not see him in the hours
that he does not wish 10 be seen.
But pick out a man who has the
qualities that will insure your com
fort and happiness and never mind
the color of his hair. If you make
the right selection your hair and his
grow silver together, and all the
days Of your married life will be
pure gold.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
MISS RICHARDSON IS
NEW COUNTY AGENT"

Miss Inez Richardson Of Purdue
university is 10 be the emergency
home economics demonstration
agent for St Joseph county. She
will have her headquarters in the
Office OF the county agricultural
agent and her work will be the same
as that work. but along home eco
Monies lines.
Miss Richardson is 70 go about
the county teaching the various
methods Of conservation. At pres
ent the speciality is Liberty
bread" On Saturday, Dec. I, a
corn and bread show will be given
at the Madison township school.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
RECIPES TO HAVE AT HAND.

RECIPES TO HAVE AT HAND.
Even the best Of cooks nowadays
depend less on their memories than
did cooks of former days. So easy
is it for US to refer to our cook
books that we do not tax our minds
TO remember exact ingredients.
The primitive cook, like the primi-
tive business man, kept all her for
mula and her business in her head.
The primitive trader kept all his
accounts in his head, and knew
just how much every one OF his
customers owed him, and how much
he owed every man. The merchant
of today relieves his mind Of those
responsibilities. He keeps books in
stead.
Really, there is nothing to be
ashamed Of in not being able to re-
member the quantities Of ingredi-
ents in dishes. The only advantage
Of remembering is that you some
times save time by not having to
search them in a cook book. The
disadvantage is that you often don't
remember them accurately. It is
really possible TO avoid either Of
these two difficulties If you have a
certain few very usual recipes
placed in a prominent place in your
kitchen where you can consult them
as you prepare your meals, without
even having TO handle them. One
good way is 70 have a sort Of bull
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
Social Calendar
Tuesday.

Members Of the north section Of
the Woman's league OF the First ~.
y. church viii be entertained NJ
the home Of Airs. Fred w Keller.
sos Portage av. Assistant hostesses
will be Mrs. Amanda Zwiling Mrs.
Harriet Urquhart, Mrs. Emma ST.
der. Mrs. W. r. Schinman. Mrs.
Fred J. Hager Mrs. Ella Beckley.
Airs. O. r. Mclaughlin and Airs. W.
8. McGlOthlin.
Members of the Keora club Of the
Y. w. O.. A. viii hold their candle
lighting service for 40 new mem
bers at 1880 o'clock az the Y. w.
The practical psychology depart
ment of the South Bend Woman's
club will meet IN the club rooms
DIR. Preston Bradley, pastor Of the
Peoples church OF Chicago. will
lecture before members of the
Woman's Dining club at the Oliver
hotel. Frederick II. Insersou will
render a musical program.
The Misses Lillian and Anna
Cordtz sos Cushing ST., viii enter
tain members Of the u. S. G Knit
ting club.
The Twin City Sewing circle Red
Cross auxiliary will meet with Mrs
a. +. Harper, COS =. washington av.
A Thanksgiving party for mem
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26
cow TESTER TO GIVE
CLASS DEMONSTRATION

T. R. Roberts. head tester OF St.
Joseph County Cow Testing associ-
alton, will give a demonstration
lecture before the night school az
ricultural class at the high school
on Tuesday night. He will show
the students how milk is tested and
Will answer questions about the
work. These agricultural classes
which are being held every Tues
day night at the high school, are
proving 10 be most interesting and
beneficial.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-11-26

afternoon was spent with sewing. A
8 o'clock dinner was served. The
centerpiece was a large basket Of
fruit The club will meet Friday,
Dec. :. with Mrs. Jud Menter, y.
Seventh 81.
Mrs. Edward Paige, Eighth St,
was hostess al a Sunday dinner in
honor Of Mr. Pages birthday ami
versary.
Mrs. Leon Fuller. 5. Sixth St
entertained at Sunday dinner Gov
ers were aid for eight