davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07
ITALIANS ATTACK On
NORTHERN FRONT
TEuTON ADVANCE SEEMS TO
HAVE BEEN EFFECTIVELY
STOPPED.
TEUT0NS SUFFER BIG LOSS
British and French Armies On Italian
Front and Will Operate AS Sepa-
rate Units-Tcutons Attack
Italian Positions in Albania.

Loudon-The long rumored turn OF
the Italian armies in the offensive is
indicated in late official cGmmunica-
tons from both Berlin and Rome.
From the report Of Observers who
have been allowed to visit the battle
front much may De taken to assume
that such Is the plan Of Diaz and his
generals. Great masses Of infantry re
serves have been brought up, together
with a marked concentration Of big
guns.
IT is very doubtful if any major OPP
Grafton on the part OF the Italians
would be directed along the Piay5
front, but along the line between the
Bretna and the Pave the Italians
have carried out several feinting ope
rations In an endeayOr to determine
the strength Of the enemy. 1t is prop
able that any offensive would be di
rected at this point.
With the arrival Of the Anglo
French reinforcement8 the whole sit
uatiOn has taken a turn for the bet
ter. The announcement by Gen. Maui
rice. British director of the bureau OF
military operations, that the crisis in
Italy had passed, was taken by many
experts to indicate that the situation
had taken a most encouraging and
hopeful aspect.
Both the British army under Gen
BHmcr and the French under Gen,
Mayerole are real armies in every
sense OF the word. They are fresh,
and were no. merely sent for the sake
of a reinforcement in the general
sense of the word. They are there for
the definite purpose of operating as
separate units.
Berlin In its official report admits
that the Italians have successfully
conducted heavy attacks against their
positions on the west bank OF the
Brenta and on Monte Tomba ION the
northern front). These attacks failed,
according to the German cOmmunica.
ton, but they bear out the theory now
advanced that the Italians are putting
out feelers in the hope of locating a
weak spot in the enemy line.
According to Rome there has been
heavy artillery fire along the entire
front, but no infantry engagement VI
any importance is recorded, An es'
p~ecially heavy fire was directed
against the Germans in the lower Pr
ave by Italian batteries when the en-
envy attempted to move into the river
in boats.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07
CHANGING SOLDIER UNIFORMS,
overcoats Are Too Long and Shorter
Ones Are BEING Furnished.

With the American Army in France.
The uniform of the American sol.
dior is undergoing a further change.
A large number of troops have turned
in their long overcoats for coats of
the same material, but much shorte-
in length. Because o: the mud it was
found that the long coats soon became
caked and heavy. They Topped about
the legs of the soldiers, hindering the
free movement of the wearers.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07
REDUCTION OF OLEo TAX.
Is Recommended AS War Measure by
Revenue Bureau,

Observation-Disclosures of the 10
cents a pound tax on colored oleomar
garine, both as a war measure to in
crease the production of food fats and
as a means of actually yielding moro
aggregate revenue, was recommended
IN the annual report OF the internal
bureau over the name of w,
H. Osborn, who has recently been sue
ceeded as commissioner by Daniel c
Roper
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

Mineola, L. Mrs. Blanca de Saul
les was found not guilty by the jury
that was trying her for the murder of
her divorced husband, John Longer de-
Saulles, the noted Yale athlete, whom
she shot at his home, THE Box" in
Hampstead Meadows, L. l., on the
night of August 3 last.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07
GERMAN DIPLOMAT HELD.
Karl Wiedmann Arrested on a Presi
dental Warrant.

Los Angeles ,-karl Frederick WED
mann, arrested by federal authorities
was said to have been taken into Gus
tody on a presidential warrant.
Wiedmann, federal agents say, form,
erly was a German consular agent in
China, later a cartoonist on newspa.
pers in the Orient and enlisted in the
United States cavalry In Manila, final
ly coming here.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07
Naval Reserves To Man Ships,

Washington.-Naval reserves will
man all American ships transporting
troops and supplies, under a plan be-
ing worked out by Secretary Daniels
and the shipping board, to avoid hay
ing civilians aboard vessels engaged
in war work.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

Observation-Disclosures by Gamer
against government Communicating OF
tin revealed that the navy department
has Communicated all tin in New YORK.
warehouses.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

New York,-Oliver II. Payne, mil
lionaire tobaCconist, who died June u,
left an estate exceeding So, 600, 900,
according to the report Of the deputy
state controller filed in the surrogate's
court here.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

Washington-The selection of Mont
gomery, Ala. as the site of an army
aviation camp is announced by Chair
man Dent, of the house military com
mittea
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

Berlin.-Thieves entered the impo-
rial house Wilhelmshoehe, at Cassell.
and carried off numerous valuable OBJ
iectS of art.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1917-12-07

New York.-Prof. franklin Nat.
thews, Of the Columbia university
school of journalism, diel suddenly IN
q train, aged 81.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

waists. There seems TO have been feeling,
belief. for centuries that whenever a people
reached a certain stage of civilization, of pros
perity, its women should become idle; and
some physical sign that these women were un-
fit for work and must be allowed to remain
idle has perhaps been sought. Certainly
Chinese woman of high degree who must walk
through life on almost ossified and very dlmn-
utive bound feet cannot work, and the civiliza-
ton that supports her must take care of her.
The woman who has always been in tight stays
is likely to be unfit for really hard work, men,
tai or physical, for, in spite of exceptions,
good physical condition is usually needed for
healthily active mental condition.
And the tiny hands and feet that have been
Wanted by writer's in the English language in
times past when they were describing their
fair heroines were tacitly recognized as
badge of woman's inability TO work.
So all this shows that we have really lived
to see a most revolutionary change IN the
whole aspect of the woman question. Woman
kind has proved her right to work-or she has
accepted the modern conditions that make 1t an
economic necessity that she come out Of the
home-whichever you will. And the modern
sensible clothes, comfortable and at the same
time attractive to the eye, are just one more
evidence of this state Of things.
In primitive society it has never been con-
sidered a mark of beauty for women to show
any physical frailty. To be sure, the red Ind
ians painted themselves and put rings in their
noses and ears-or some savages did, anyway.
But Indian women made no effort to disguise
a No. ) foot in No. moccasin or TO make it
possible to span their waists with one less
shell in their girdles. 1t is only when we
reach a stage of progression when it is not
necessary for women Of the higher classes to
work that we find uncomfortable clothes.
And now we have progressed beyond this
stage-and may never go back to it. Those Of
US who have lived through these comfortable
days of sports clothes hope this is the case.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Swagger Sticks and Other Fancies

An army canteen should be in the equip
ment of every girl who goes on summer picnics
or hikes. It is the ideal way TO carry water,
and if each member of picnic or hiking party
carries his or her own canteen swung over the
hack there is no burden by way Of carrying
water. And there is no problem OF dividing
the water evenly. Army canteens may be
bought for $3.50. But if you don't want to
paw this price you may possibly be able to get
secondhand canteens. that have been discarded
from the army and that may be bought for 80
cents apiece. very fair sort of canteen may
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Lacing Up BlOuses

A sand-colored wolfe freck owes its character
and distinction 70 the effect Of these eyelets,
which are embroidered in midnight blue and
run through with satin ribbon in the same
shade sport blouse in which to play tennis
or golf has Burgundy red eyeets and taffeta
ribbon used against the white Chinese silk
background.
There are several types Of these wide girdles
in fashion which are laced up the front and
back, in sailor fashion. Or course, the whole
idea was taken from the marines. There are
many women who don't like to sew on buttons
any more than sailors, and they have found
that the good seamanship Of the eyelet and the
ribbon serves them well in all kinds of stormy
weather.
By the way there is an interesting discus
sion going on, anent the substitution Of eyelets
for buttons, which concerns the possible substi-
tuition of ribbons for hairpins The hair
dressers all over the land are grooming in dis
may over the price they have to pay for this
common article, and women are wondering, in
high amusement, if it will soon be necessary
to revert to the medieval fashion of plating
the hair down the back and winding ribbon
through it.
The hairdressers, however, have another
idea to suggest, which is for women to adopt
the Understandable method Of bobbing the
hair. Fully two dozen of the most fashionable
women in New York society have adopted this
couture Of short, curled hair, la bebe, as the
French call it, and the hairdressers say that
if it is universally adopted it will bring more
money TO their nurses than thew have made in
years.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

tagged from shopping and carrying an assert
want of odd little bundles in connection with
the stick is really ridiculous.
The girl with the stick must be crisp as the
early morning. She must be free from o'ner
burdens If she carry purse 1t must either
be part of her stick or it must harmonic with
il. And she must carry it with an air. In
fact. not one girl in ten knows how to carry
sraoper stick with the right air, and 1t is an
air that cannot be cultivated. It's matter
OF personality. Some girls are the swagger-
,,;ck kind-and some are not.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Do Most of the Saving in Food

There is every reason to economic in food.
If we believe the aarmists, the nation faces
famine. Even if we are optimists, we know
that the scarcity of food is genuine and that
we must do our part to cut down our rations.
Wanton wastefuness in the kitchen is to-day
a sin against the country. It is unpatriotlc;
it is selfish almost to the point of being trait
orous.
But there is no scarcity of fabrics for clothes
There are 100000 workers in New York alone
dependent upon the continuance of the purchas-
ing of apparel. Women need not economic in
this department; they should not economic,
for that in itself is a grave injustice to the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Avoids the appearance of extravaganza Women
haze decided that it is unjust to workers to re-
fuse to buy clothes, but they choose dgnifed
gowns that reflect serious attitude-What
methods Uonen are taking to withstand a short
age of buttons, hairpins and such small gear

workers. But there are two things they should
do, and do them with frmness and sanity;
they should absolutely refuse to pay the alb
surd and unjust prices of some dressmakers,
and they should refuse to dress in gorgeous
and unseemly manner.
woman confessed the other day that she
almost had hysteria when she received bill
for $3.50 for crepe de chine afternoon gown
on the day that this country declared war.
The wise comment on that was that she should
have hysteria on any day Of her life 10 incur
such bill. There was no sanity or justice IN
asking that price for that kind Of frock
A dancer who had just paid $500 for gown
in which to do a specially under the flags Of
the nations was caustically reminded that she
would better have given the 5000 to the men
under the flags.
1t is told of General Joffre that when ne had
looked at all the magnificent decorations IN
American cities in his honor he said sadly to
one of his intmates, How many mouths that
money would have fed in France
II is the appearance Of extravaganza, there
fore. that women should avoid in these times
of stress. Let them spend as literally for ap-
parel as they can afford, but let all women
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

IND YOU ever stop to realize that now
for perhaps the first time in 1000
IL years a woman can be perfectly,
serenely comfortable and at the same time
perfectly, serenely fashionable?
No one Judges the beauty of a woman by
the diminutiveness of her foot nowadays. If
she is a tall girl she should have large foot,
and unless she is petite herself we look upon
No. foot as being something of malforma-
ton. At least most men would rather know
girl who can keep up with them on five-mlle
walk than one whose foot is too small TO bear
her bodily weight comfortably.
So for once in century or so we may be
foot comfortable, if we choose to be.
And in spite of the return of high lace col
lars and full iabots-which always do look ex-
tremely smart with the tailored suit-we are
much more comfortably collared than the
sterner sex. The coarless house and morning
frock is as much an accepted fact as the low
necked evening gown. And our waists are so
large that we can breathe as freely as we
choose We do not pierce our ears or our
noses for rings. If we wear earrings they
must be so devised that they fasten without
afTording US even a moments discomfort and
without necesstating any previous mutilatlon
in the way of ear puncturng.
We have most of US lived through wonder
full revolution in this respect. We do not even
wear skirts or bustles that give us more bulk
10 carry around than need be. The American
girl of 1917 clad in sport togs is about the
most comfortably clad human being alive.
And vet on what heritage Of suffering and
misery have we built up our present-day fash-
ion, How far have we progressed from the
DAVIS when self-torture for fashions sake
seered 10 be the necessary distinction between
The "lady" and the woman who tolled-tne
bigb-born woman whose sole duty was to De
lovely and the other woman who mad TO toii
that the lady might be idle-ldie ana usually
miserable in her idleness.
In Venice in the sixteenth century-~hen
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

rrrcT vbv The war should have ushered IN
vogue for sticks IN 'he ha"uS
~ smartly dressed young women Is SOME
thing not easy to see, but the fact Is tha' one
Of the innovations Of our wartime styles Is 'ne
stick in various guises. Sometimes 1t Is 'ne
perfectly plain swagger stick. Then there are
sticks from which are hung bags large ehoue"
to carry knitting. Some Of the sticks nave
nurses attached. Others are the means ol
floating small flags. Sometimes the patrio'io
er,blcno is introduced by means OF smai
enamel flag on the handle.
One thing that ought to be remembered Is
.aa. = swaggcr stick must be carried swag-
gerry or not at all. 1t is absurd to carry "
otherwise, and the sight Of young woman
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
What Weu-Dresed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RTTENF4OUsE /
Economy Idea in Clothes Gives Way to Simplicity

Just what the women who serve three
courses have done to their cookery is what the
women of wealth have done to their clothes.
After the first hysteria Of war economy was
over, women saw its fooishness in regard to
apparel. A few facts sufficed to give them
different attitude.
When several dozen seamstresses had their
engagements cancelled for the spring season
and were at their wits end to know how to pay
the rent and get food, the women who engaged
these seamstresses TO come to their houses each
season quickly saw that it was better to pay
wages than to give to charity.
When hundreds of gowns were thrown back
on dressmakers' hands, on the plea that there
would be no money TO pay for such extrava-
gance, and the dressmakers were compelled to
hold sweeping sales that undervalued what
ever clothes the rich women had already
bought, a new idea concerning economy was
born in the brains of wealthy women.
The second movement on the part of masses
Of women was then directed toward providing
money for those who worked and at the same
time eliminating the appearance of waste and
extravaganza.
Inc sane lued WOrheu wen III OVOiI u4A NN't0''''
it kept the workers employed and gave them
sufficient money on which to live; and 1t did
not offend the public. No one wants to appear
frivolous or unthinking in a crisis like this.
When women are dressed in gold or silver, IN
jewelled trappings and in precious gems, that
vast public that is thinking only Of how to live
and how to sacrifice might begin to murmur
those terrible sentences of the French people
in the Revolution.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

be had for that price if you take pains to pick
on. one of the best in the lot. They may be
scrubbed on the outside by means of brush
and soapsuds and then allowed to dry, and it is
an easy matter to scald them thoroughly on
the inside. If you are trophy lover. then the
fact that these canteens have seen service in
the United States army ought to add to their
value TO you. They contain full quart less
spoonful.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Fashion No Longer DEGREES We
Make Ourselves Miserable
Nou for the first time in centuries the
won,an of fashion may also be comfortable

wore hickory boards in their stays in order
that half yard of ribbon might span their
girdes But the disfgurng stay is no modern
supposed mark of beauty-not even so modern
as the sixteenth-century Venetian invention. To
be sure, the women of medieval days were I'M
stayed, but we have little iigurines from Greece
in the Mycenaan age, over 1000 years B. c.,
that show waists as small as ever they have
been since then.
Nobody knows just why women in China
have bound their feet Nobody knows just
why women of our own race have bound their
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

fashion which was universal before buttons
were invented.
Large eyelets are made down the front,
smaller ones in the sleeves at the wrists, and
very large ones indeed in the front OF the
girde. All these are overcast with button
hole stitch done in colored thread, and
through them colored ribbon is run and tied in
a loose bow.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
No Restricted WardrObes

1t is interesting to know that Germany IS
the first Of the beligerent5 to put restric-
ton on the amount of wearing apparel for
each person. The imperial clothing Office has
fixed the amount of garments that each man
or woman may buy or possess during the year.
This Office also limits the amount Of material
which may be used in the making Of gown
or a suit No one may purchase yard OF
material or a single garment without a special
permit.
1t is also interesting to know what imperial
Germany thinks is sufficient in the way of cloth
ing for one woman. Two everyday frocks, one
Sunday frock, one separate skirt, two blouses,
one coat or cape, one shawl, one dressing gown,
three aprons, one pair of gloves, half-dozen
handkerchiefs four chemises, three night
gowns, three combinations or boomers, three
petticoats and four pairs Of stockings.
It is the comment Of all dressmakers that
they are compelled to sell gay clothes at half
the price Of solemn ones. This should be
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

Many of the army and navy stores have on
hand supply of womens Service shoes" that
are at the same time so comfortable and so
smart that they will appeal TO women whether
they are actually doing service or not They
are just plain, stout, but shapely tan SHOE
built for wear, at a not exorbitant price,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

TN TALKING to a dressmaker OF Importance,
whose bills to the rich women run into
- thousands each season, anent this current
topic of economy in clothes, she said that she
had found Jess economy among all classes than
a strong desire to wear clothes that did not
express money.
Simplicity might be very costly as we all
know, was her further explanation, and women
we're paying good prices for their summer ap-
nrel but they made strong demand that 1t
should take upon itself the appearance Of cost
irg little.
A black satin dinner frock, for instance, built
in draped lines, with a bit of good lace at the
neck. or merely distinctive turnover collar OF
black and white tulle arranged in modest
decolletage, may have cost as much as black
and gold brocade Of last season, trimmed with
tulle and metal and draped in daring way
that focused attention. But the effect OF
economy was there.
The majority of women think that any IN
due display Of apparel is in bad taste. They
feel that the amount Of money they pay for
their clothes is private and personal matter;
but that any visible and outward display OF the
high cost Of the gown is public matter, and
one that the public has a right TO crlticlse.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17

Venetian women were supposedly at their love-
lest-stays Of wrought iron were worn, pro-
ducing a waist but fifteen inches in girth, and
even our own grandmothers in this country
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
HUSSAR CAPE OF WHITE
FUR FOR SUMMER

Il is made Of ermine, cut into points
back and front and lined with printed
silk in a red and white cherry design
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-06-17
Economy Is Chiefly in Theory

The question Of food is handled IN mucn tne
same way. If you have been to any one OF the
.hree-course dinners given by the rich women
Of the country you may have had to 20 home
and take soda mint TO forestall indigestion.
There are three courses; against that there
is no discussion. The quantity of food that
can be put into three courses forms the inter-
ssting part Of this subject, but, mind you' tne
food is not expensive and it is not elaborateiy
prepared The effect on the one who dimes IS
that the innsr man is satisfied with nourlshing
food perfectly cooked.
Onions and potatoes may cost good deal;
rice may have gone up in price; chops may De
much higher than mushrooms with a French
sauce; but who can gainsay the effect OF Sc
we're simplicity in the serving Of this type OF
food,