davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1917-01-26

liam G. Ulfrrt OF St. Johns German
church OF this city. lntcrment WAS III
Mt Ollvet cemetery.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

The envelope that accompanies the
pattern provides two diasRms. One
shows the parts laid out on material
thirty-six inches wide; If your ma
terial is wider or narrower you will
have to vary the placing little, but,
nevertheless, the diagram makes an
excellent guide for it shows you just
how each piece should be arranged.
For the voile, the lining preferably
would be made Of white net and it
is vital to shrink this net before cut
ting. The second diagram shows you
how the pieces are to be put together,
and if you follow the directions that
viii be given here and study these dia-
grams it should be the simplest thing
IN the world to make the dress.
AS the first step, smooth out your
pattern and identify the pieces by the
diagram. Then fold the material
lengthwise and lay the pattern out and
rin it into place. All the seams are
allowed, therefore, you cut along the
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23
npcy Makes The keynote of TheFashons The Little Folk
q - By May Manton

w WITHOUT doubt we are living
w in stirring times and when
there is every condition to
stimulate love of country and pa
triotic fervor. At the moment, "Made
in America" is the slogan being largely
used by the dealers and, to the credit
of women buyers, let it be said, the
slogan is being met with enthusiastic
response. We are seeing very charm
ing, simple Summer dresses of tub
silks and of ginghams made in shirt
waist style that really are ideal for
hot weather wear, and we are seeing
American fabrics of finer and more
costly weave exploited both in cos
tunes and over the counters in a way
that should surely stimulate apprecia-
tion and buying. For too long we have
been hampered by the fetch of the
label Imported. While there is
every reason for us to work hand in
hand with our allies and to aid in
every way we can in the consumption
of the French and English fabrics,
those that are made at home are
entitled to consideration that has not
always been given them. If the serious
condition which the country must
confront today brings about greater
wisdom and keener valuation for the
homemade products, a great work
will be accomplished.
AS matter of course, we are seeing
the patriotic coiors and the flag at
every turn, but it would be well were
the enthusiasm curbed a little to a
state of reasonableness. Recently
it has been necessary for the Attorney
General to point out that flag stickers
must not be put on envelopes and
packages where they are likely to be
stamped by the post Office authorities.
Why is it that when we become enthu-
siastic we rush to such wild extremes.
The flag is an emblem that we all love.
1t should be foated from a staff. 1t
should be waited on high. 1t should
be carried over our heads. We must
not embroider it on our hosiery, we
must not use the patriotic colors to
trim our gloves, we must not put the
flag anywhere or use it in any way that
it can possibly be subjected to indig-
nifty. 1t is to be looked up at, it is to
be reverenced and it is the symbol
of all that we love best, but unthink-
ing enthusiasm combined with certain
commercial spirit has brought about
some curious evidences of patriotism.
Let us be warned in time and think
bit before we use the flag in a way
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

garment is worn. The neck Of the
blouse also is finished with a rolling
collar and that collar is turned out
over the one of the coat. The bit of
white and the CLINT of gold on the black
background are very charming, and.
as a matter of course, the idea can be
carried out in blue or in gray or in any
one OF the favorite colors. It is a
season of quiet tones for street wear,
gray and beige and tan and brown
and the like are favorites and the
treatment will be suggestive for one
and for all. There has been something
OF return to waistcoats, too, and a
great many of the wool suits are worn
with waistcoats of white pique that.
are exceedingly chic. A favorite rnodel
is cut to form deep point at each side
OF the front and is finished with high
taring collar. 1t suits the severe tail
ored suit perfectly and it has just that
little hint of the military suggestion
that is constantly cropping up in on:
way or another.
There Is an evident return to tn,
favorite separate blouse. We shal
wear a great many blouses of thinner
material with heavier skirts and sine:
there never was a more thoroughly
satisfactory or comfortable costum,
for warm weather, the return is wei.
come. The best dressed women % III.
Spring resorts established the vogue
and it already has met with enthu-
siastic general response. For morning
wear, for sports and for occasions OF
such sort, cotton and linen materials
are the best and voile and handker-
chief lawn are having great vogue
For the afternoon you can, of course.
use crepe de chine and Georgette crepe
and as dainty materials as you like for
the separate blouses and skirts. In
great many instances the blouses are
touched with the material of the
skirt to give the costume idea, although
that treatment is not essential. Wha
makes the smartness of these blouscs
is the care with which they are made
the hand sewing, the dainty materiai
and finish of the sort. They are essen
tally simple garments and the skirts
that accompany them are made with
marked simplicity, although Otter
very handsome materials are utilizca
for the so-called sports costumes, in
fact that is curious season for we S. e
satin rich in effect although it is
labeled washable, utilized for the skirt
to be worn for sports.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

that means deseeration rather than
reverence.
The military influence is apparent
in great many ways. There will be
a great deal of khaki color worn, not
alone in the costumes that a great
many women are preparing for the
fields and for the outdoor labor that
they contemplate in the later season,
but also for general outings and tramps
and occasions of such sort. Among
the latest output are blouses of fine
materials, handkerchief lawn and voiIe
and the like, to match so that one can
wear khaIi-colored costume without
discomfort, even on the warmest day
that the Summer may bring forth.
There are some very charming jersey
silks in what are known as regimental
stripes, too, that make exceedingly
effective costumes for sports and for
country wear, and the dark blue with
a CLINT of gold is a favorite combina-
tion. Mention has been made in
previous letters of the very extensive
vogue of the cape. The distinctly
military cape with its coat front has
been gaining steadily in favor. Today,
it is shown not alone in the serviceable
serge that is admirable for travel and
for camping and for general wear but
in such materials as white satin for
use upon the piazza and for occasions
that call for dress of a similar sort.
1t is such a graceful model and such a
handsome model that it is charming
in whatever fabric it is shown and let
it be added, it is very generally be-
coming model. 1t disguises the figure
OF the stout woman and one sees only
the long graceful lines, and it falls
about the slender and the svelt with
consummate grace and charm.
The coat suit may fairly be said to
have come into its own for the Spring
and Summer, and great many charm
ing ones are being made of silk while
a favorite material is silk gabardine.
A handsome model that has just been
received from Paris is made with a
skirt that shows plaits at the front
and the back with plain sides, and
coat with plated sides and a collar
that rolls to the belt, but this coat is
not designed to be closed, it is left
open for a few inches to reveal the
slip-over, long peplum blouse of white
silk jersey that is worn beneath and
this jersey blouse is finished with two
bands of gold at the lower edge and
on the deep faring cuffs which are
turned out over the coat when that
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

tunes are made of fine material but
always suitable material. Bingham
is pronounced favorite for morning
dresses and the little frock at the left
shows a very pretty plaid that is
trimmed with a plain ccler. 1t is
an exceedingly attractive little frock
and at the same time it is an essen
TALLY practical one for it can be laun-
dered again and again without diff
Guilty. We use great many rompers
for little children and for the BOYS,
they are especially we'll liked. They
seem to bridge them over the time
between dresses and suits as no other
garment does and not few mothers
make them of fine material for after
noon and of sturdy material for morn
ing, preserving the more formal cos
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23
The Coat is a Necessity This Season.
By May Manton@>M

cutter edges. The line of small perfora-
tions that is nearest each edge indi-
Gates the basting line and that line
is most important, therefore. mark it
with care. Mark all your perforations
and notches. You ran do this either
with the tailor's tacks that have been
described frequently or you can do. it
with little colored crayon and after
removing the pattern pin through to
the underside then make the second
markings.
The pattern envelope directs you to
hem the right side and to finish the
lett for an undertaking, and that is
quite correct, for any material that is
not transparent. but for the voile it
will be better to allow one inch on each
back edge of your lining, of your
blouse and over blouse; then you can
make an inch hem on each, turning
under the first time one-half inch and
the second time one inch and when
you lap them you will have the two
sides exactly alike.
Finish the back edges of the lining
with the hens. Bring the two lines
of periorations that indicate each
dart together at the font of the
lining on the wrong side and stitch
on the peiforations, then turn the
darts toward the under-arm edges
and stitch fiat. Close the shoulder
and undcr-arm seams, and for these
and all other seams use the double
seams. first a narrow seam on the
right side and a second seam on the
wrong side taken on the basting line.
AS the next step finish the back
edges of your blouse exactly as you
have done those of the lining, then
close both the shoulder and the
under-arm seams. Gather the neck
edge of the front and the neck edge of
the back between the crosses and again
on the circles and again between to get
the pretty shirred effect. Then gather
the blouse at the lower edge and ar
range it over the lining with the lower
edge at the circles, the under-arm, the
shoulder seams and the back edges
meeting and baste carefully into place.
To make the puffed sleeves. gather
at both upper and lower edges between
the crosses on the lines of circles.
Measure the arm-holes of the blouse
and measure the arms of the wearer.
Draw the upper gathers up to the size
Of the arrn-holes and the two lower
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

rows OF gathers to fit the arms. Cut
three bands of material for each sleeve
one inch in width and each the length
OF the gathers after you have drawn
them up. Turn the edges under to
make the bands one-half inch in width.
then arrange one band over the gathers
at the center of each sleeve and stitch
the edges into place, arrange one over
and one under the gathers at the lower
edge of each sleeve. Baste carefully
and stitch the upper edges into place.
Close the seams of the sleeves. For
the frills, cut straight strips of material
two inches in width and once and one
half the length of each band. Finish
the lower edges with narrow hens and
gather at the upper edges. Draw up
to the size of the bands and slip
between the two thicknesses' to the
width Of the seam. Basic and Stitch
through both sections Of the band and
fills. Baste the sleeves to the arm
holcs with the nqtches exactly meeting
and the single circles at the shoulder
seams and hold the sleeves toward you
while you baste. Take the seams up
on the right side and stitch a very
narrow seam, then remove your bast-
ings, turn on the wrong side and stitch
again on the basting line. Turn the
seams under the blouse and tack to the
shoulder seams. For the over-blouse,
join the shoulder and the under-arm
edges and finish the back edges as you
have already done tor the lining and for
the blouse. Finish the neck edge, the
front edges and the arm-hole edges in
any way the you like. Make eyelcts
on each side OF the front and lace
Then gather at the lower edge between
the double crosses, Lock at the under
side of the lining and you will notice
single large circle at each side Of the
center front. Pin through these to the
blouse, then arrange your over-blouse
over the blouse and let the front edges
come exactly at these pins and baste
into place.
Close the back scam of the skirt
below the notches and finish the edges
above with narrow hens. Turn the
lower edge under on the perforations
that indicate the seam. Turn the outer
edge under for one-half inch and hem
on the first line of circles. Arrange
trimming bands over the three lines
of circles. Sew both edges into place
by hand, then gather the skirt on the
circles that indicate the seam between
double crosses, and again on the row
OF larger circles, then third time mid
way between these two rows of gathers.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

is here or of white and trim it with
blue to be distinctly sailor-lile. OF
course you will follow the sailors
colors, otherwise the little lad will not
be quite content. The coat. suit is
good one for galatea and for linen and
for gingham and for all such materials
and it is really very simple and
easy to make. All the little boys are
wearing straight trousers, they are so
much more comfortable than the ones
that bind the knees and incidentally,
they are much simpler and easier to
make. These are supplied with waist
bands within their edges in which are
button-holes that allow of buttoning
to the under-waist and so being kept
firmly in place.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

THERE is certain attractive
quaintness about the trock shown
here that is sure to appeal both
tc the mother and to the young wearer.
The little over-bodice is laced at the
front even while it closes at the back
and the puffed sleeves are quite uu-
usual and they make charming effect.
yet altogether the dress is a very
simple one and very easy one to
make. In the picture, the skirt and
the under-blouse are made of fine
white French voile and the over-bodice
is made OF the same material with a
little flower design.
The skirt consists of just straight
piece shirred at the upper edge and the
blouse and over-bodice are arranged
over lining that holds them IN place.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

tunes for the very rare occasions of the
little boys life. Those that are shown
are very pretty. One is made of white
dimity embroidered by hand and every
little bit of hand work makes them very
dainty and charming. They are shown
ona little girl and they are quite as ap-
propriate for boys as for girls, but the
boys are apt to wear them more gen.
orally. The two boys suits are excel
lent. One is made with sugges stion
Of the norfolk idea that is always be-
coming and every boy this Summer
will want at least one costume that
suggests the sailor idea. 1t is his con-
tribution to the nations welfare and
he will hardly be a boy if he does not
desire it, and you can make this little
suit of blue and trim with white as it
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

THE Summer is essentially the
children's season. It is so de-
slightful to live out Of doors and
to romp and to play and to roll and
to toss, and as matter of course they
must have suitable clothing. No
mother can be so cruel as to hamper
their free movements by anything so
prosaie as a garment, and happily
fashion has declared for simplicity
as the smartest of all things and that
freedom is an absolute necessity to
style. In the group above are shown
some very good examples of Summer
irocks and suits. If they are followed
the little folk will be entirely happy
and at the same time quite correctly
garbed. The. best dressed mothers
look to it that their children's COS
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-07-23

The cloak fills an important place
in the seasons wardrobe. In fact, the
smart cloak is really vital to its sue
cess, and there is an attractive and
interesting variety offered. Without
doubt, the so-called military cape is
favorite and it is shown in the pic
ture above made of dark blue bolivia
cloth lined with foulard silk. blue
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
THE FEAST OF
THE PASSOVER

The Festival of Passover Hebrew
name Pesachj will he ushered im Fri
day evening. April IS. and lasts week
from this time only the first and
seventh days. according To the origin
al Biblical injunction, are full holidays.
the Intervening DAYS being semi-holi-
days. The more orthodox Jews. fol-
lowing later raobinical prescriptions.
couple the second day with THE first
as "A faH holiday also and observe
likewise an additional eighth day.
While this festival coming as it
does in early spring, has as part Of its
significance the celebration of'nature's
re-awakening. Vet its dominant ssso-
Citations are historical rather than ag-
ricultural Passover calendar stands
out in the Jewish religious calendar
as the anniversary Of IsraeFs redemp-
tion from Egyptian bondage under the
leadership Of Moses. the mighty liber-
ator and lawEiver. who was God s in
strument for this purpose. The pri-
mary message Of the festival as such,
therefore. is "Liberty"-the inaliena BILE
right of men TO be free from every
form of servitude and injustice this
applying no less TO the modern Phar-
oahs than 1T did to the Pharoah OF old
The first night (amoBg the orthodox
the second night ALSO is signal
lied by quantity beautiful serv-
ice conducted by the head Of the house
hold. with the other members around
the family table This Is called the
Seder and through song. story and
picturesque ceremonial the purport Of
the festival IS brought out as the meal
proceeds The symbols AT the Seder
are Matzoth or unleavened bread, Bit
ter herbs. confection Of grated apples.
cinnamon and nuts saturated with
wine. the roasted shank or a lamb. the
roasted egg. and the four cups OF wine.
each OF these symbols having its own
special significance The Seder has
been one of the most potent Influences
making for the pety OF the Jewish
home.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
Chicken Croouettes.

The chicken croquette is
mixture miScalled food. 1t
wears a Sawdust mask to hide its
real identity.
Chicken croquette is just a
restaurant proprietor's excuse
for using up scraps he would
otherwise throw away. There's
about as much chicken in it as
there is in a chunk of chilled
steel. 1t is glorified hash of the
worst type.
1t sits around in cones, look
ing like a Fourth of July snake.
You know, the kind you touch
a match to and the snake boils
out.
But don't ever try to boil any
thing out of a chicken croquette.
The chances are ten to one you'll
produce worse things than
snakes.
The chicken croquette is
enough to make a self-respect-
ing hen ashamed of herself.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
". 2. cHuRcH soc1nrrns.

Five divisions o6 the Ladies Aid So
ciety of the First Methodist church met
yesterday afternoon. The first division
was entertain d by Mrs. Walter Ian
borne and Mrs Kimbrough ar Mrs.
Lanborne's home in Monroe street. The
guests broug ht their needle work and
during the meeting We're served with a
dainty luncheon.
Mrs Charles ". sylvester of Detroit
street was hostess TO the second divi-
sion at the rnonthIv business and social
meeting Miss Donna Sample enter
aimed with music during the social hour
and after her program refreshments
were served About twenty members
and guests were present.
At the home Of Mrs. W. H. Spellman
in Carroll street the members of the
third division met for social after
non a feature Of the afternoon was
the singing Of national airs BY the de
partment. Little silk flags were given
IS luncheon favors-
a pleasant meeting of the fourth di-
vision took place at the home of Mrs.
Charles Daily in P1ummer avenue. After
2 short business session the time was
spent socially and refreshments were
served
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
HIGH SCHOOL BOY
To JOIN u. s. CORPS
Ralph Brooks Receives Re
quest for Enlistment as
Radio Operator.

Ralph F Brooks. l7-year ola son u
Mr. ana Mrs william H. Brooks ~
Williams street and a sophomore in
the Hammond high school. has been
notified by T. T. Dillon. captain OF the
reserve signal corps Of the United
states army. that his services arr
needed hy the country. The young
man. Who Is 4 licensed wireless on
orator and has an outfit constructed
by himself. viii accept the request to
enlist in the reserve signal corps. He
will 90 to the training station immed-
lately after school is dismissed
The other licensed amateur radio OBJ
orator III Hammond is Rartine, son n
Mr. ami AIRS Eric I-und. p Warren
street.
Young Brooks has a wireless outAt
in operation At his home. The past
few DAYS The members Of his family
have been entertained by music trans
ferred bv wireless telephone from Chi
cago and picked by MIN.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
Honp nroNTH1Y naEErrNa.

A very interesting program was given
following the business meeting of tbs
Standard Bearers on Tuesday evening
at the home of Mrs Fred Scheer. 157
Detroit street. In the absence Of the
president Miss Edythe Mcconnell pre-
sided Plans for the annual thank offer
ing meeting in May were discussed and
arrangements were also made for a
Jack Homer Social to be held in two
weeks at the home of Mrs. McKinnon,
The program for the evening included
the review of the lesson by Miss Gladys
Younger, the Mystery Box which was
conducted by Mrs. Irene Dedelow and a
reading by Miss Mabel Powley. Miss
Edythe Mcconnell assisted Mrs. Seheer
and during the social hour they served
their guests with a prettiIy appointed
two course luncheon
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-04-05
LEMONS BRING OUT
THE HIDDEN BEAUTY
Make this lotion for very little
cost and just see
for yourself.

An attractive skin wins admiration.
In social life and in business the girl
or woman whose face and hands show
evidence of constant care enjoys q try
mendous advantage over those who do
not realize the value OF q healthy skin
end a spotless complexion
al the cost 81 small jar Of ordinary
cold cream one can prepare a :ulI quar-
ter -piut Of the most wonderful lemon
skin softener and complexion heaulfiier.
by squeezine he juice OF two fresh LEM
ons into a bottle containing three ounces
Of orchard white. Care should be taken
tn strain biz juice through a fine cloth
IS 10 lemon pulp gets in. then this To-
ton viii Keep fresh for months. Every
woman knows that lemon Juice is used
to bleach and remove such blemishes as
freckles. salowness and tan. and is the
ideal skin softener smoothener and
beautiher
Just try it' Get three ounces Of or
chard white at any pharmacy and two
lemons from the grocer and make up a
quarter pint Of mis- sweetly fragrant
lemon lotion and massage il daily into
the face neck arms and hands. 1t nat
urauy should help to soften freshen,
bleach and bring cut the roses and
beauty Of amy skin-Adv