The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1917-08-22
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS
ANNE .,IsHsa,uoy.r FOR WOMEN
by
ANNE RITTENHOUsE
The loose crown with wide brim
will govern the shape of hats-Vel-
vet and poster effects will be in
high demand.

Inc loose crown with a wide brim
Will govern the shape of hats-Vel-
vet and poster effects will be in
high demand.
New York August 2t-There is a be-
lief among expert milliners that white
should be placed next to the face in a
hat built of sombre material.
Artists who have long studied the eff
feet Of color on the expression of the
face have begged all women that they
either wear white or flesh above the ewes.
or refrain from wearing a brim that lets
the sunlight through it.
Today milliners and artists join hands.
This is as it should be. 1t would be a
better world of dress if a milliner was
always an artist, but taste and trade are
not inseperable.
Fashion pulls people around bv the
nose. 1t does not give wide scope in the
Individual adjustment of clothes to the
figure. And it has another sad trick
OF binding a woman to her own possi-
oilities, and it often turns her into a
cartoon. She becomes a caricature
through enslavement. Someone once said
that fashion was more of a satyr than a
saint in that it ridlcules more than it
saves women.
There are many other things that an
artist could teach milliners in the way
of fashionable hats, so that a woman's
spirit, as well as her beauty may be
brought out. No portrait painter Is worth
much who cannot tell to the onlooker
something of the soul and spirit of the
sitter when he puts the figure and face
on canvas.
Mr.. Sargent once said, when he stood
before wonderfully executed portrait Of
an American woman who had come into
the limelight through her husbands great
wealth. that 1t was pity the artist had
not told the onlooker that she knew the
woman was vulgar
1t was a fine point made by Mr. Sar-
gent. 1t was said further of him that
the praise given by a surgeon to one OF
his portraits pleased the painter more
than any technical praise that had been
given him by critics. This surgeon looked
at Sargent's portrait of a famous man
and said: Il know little of art, but that
man Is going to die soon of Brights dis
ease" The painter had become diagnos-
tician and the surgeon recognized the
verdict.
n,
the fact is, that the milliner who could
bring out a woman's spirit. intensity it,
or, sometimes, conceal it. would be a
great addition to the history of dress.
There is no gown so perfect but what
can be ruined by a hat. There is no
face SO ugly but what can be helped by
hat. There are no features so PLAIN
and insipid but which may be enivened
by hat. Surely, then, the miliner should
be an artist. If she is not, If she thinks
more of form than of spirit, of fashion
more than character, then she should
not have power over many women.
ART IN A LINING
The lining that softens the eyes is the
new touch in autumn hats. It's only dis
advantage is in it's ability to soil, and
its constant need Of cleaning
Once upon time we wore our velvet
hats all in one piece, as it were, but
today we have come to the conclusion
that the velvet lining is not all that
IL should be above the eyes. SO we will
employ satin or crepe in white, cream
and that faint flesh pink that throws a
good light on the skin.
STRAIGT ACROSS BROWS
There is another emphatic fashion in
the hats that are arriving In such allur-
ing groups that they persuade one to lay
aside straw and take up velvet; this
fashion is a bit of the mllitarism that
has spread over the planet; it is the
straight line across the brows that gov
ems the placement of the hat.
There is no tilt to the side; there is
no possibility of showing even the slight
est fringe of hair on the forehead. There
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