New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26

IN startling paradox, as the ltal-
a. ians are not a dining race
- The invitation often extended
WA to Come, eat four grains of
kJl rice with us" means literally
,~eII cooked but frugal home meal informally
Served.
Tho Italian kitchen has two characteristic
features: The open fireplace with big hood
ever il and a charcoal range. The latter is
iuiIt in the form of solid brick dresser placed
against the wall; it has ten or more CRATES ten
inches square, in which handful of charcoal Is
placed. The fires are lighted from below
SHINY tiles are laid between the CRATES. On
one crate caldron Of water stands, the water
being boiled whenever needed.
The Italian cook is busy person when the
dinner is in progress. Between replacing dying
dres tanning others to brighter blazing, .urn-
ing and basting meats, skimming soup, keeping
the pots with cooking vegetables from topping
over as the charcoal settles and things IN gen
eral from burning, dinner getting might be
called cooking marathon.
No wonder Italian housewives who come to
this country literally embrace our kitchen con-
veniences, especially the ranges. If one is not
blessed with real brick oven in Italy, but has
only tin oven that looks like a Chinaman's
hat. then the large loaves of bread are sent
ont to the bakers to be baked, always covered
with gay cloth specially kept for the purpose
Copper pots and pans and earthenware pip
kins are the principal cooking utensils. On ac-
count of the scarcity Of pasture in Italy stock
for market, both large and small, is killed
young. This is why food is replenished daily
and left-overs unpopular. During the long, no.
summer it is difficult to keep food, and in the
winter an unexpected sirocco would turn bad
everything in the larder, hence the marketing
Tor the day only is done.
The chickens are cut up, so the marketer
may buy as many breasts, wings or legs as are
needed as the purse allows. popular
luncheon dish is chicken breasts served with
alternate slices of tongue and ham. Cooked
sausage meat and good galantne may be
bought at all first class grocers in Italy.
Many unusual recipes had to be stricken
from the following collection, as the ingredients
could not be purchased in America, but those
here reproduced are well worthy Of a trial.
MINESTRONE, OR BEAN POTAGE
This is peasant national dish. Soak one
pound Of harcot beans over night and cook
them in enough water TO cover them for three
hours in the morning When done, put through
PURGE sieve; then put the pulp back into the
water they were boiled in. Meantime make
ready the sofrittO.
Take half onion, teaspoon Of parsley,
bud Of garlic and piece Of celery and chop
all fine. Fry in olive oil with half pound of
sliced bologna until brown. Add this to the
bean mixture with three tablespoons Of To-
mato sauce, three sliced potatoes, a cup and a
half Of chopped cabbage and half cup OF
washed rice. Season 10 taste and boil gently
until az thick as porridge.
ZUPPA VERDE
Wash and boil spinach and young beet greens
together; when done, chop fine. Prepare the
soFritto Of chopped parsley, onion, carrot, eel
cry and a pepper fried in butter. Add to the
chopped greens with a quart Of veal broth, mix
and cook fifteen minutes. Remove from the