Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-10-22
THICK WOODEN FABRICS FROM PARIS.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.


1pseial Correspondence OF The star.
NEW YORK. October Cot is evil
don't that Paris went through an un-
usually cold winter during the early
part Of 1917. The influx of thick wooden
gowns, the absence Of thin blouses. the
new cache-nez collar. the sleeves that
cover the knuckles are all part and
parcel of the discomfort of her citizens
in cold that was unequaled and a
coal famine that was unprecedented.
No one who spent last winter in
Paris ever talks of anything else but
the subject of the suffering from cold.
The tales are pitiful They may rank
in the war history of Paris as that fatai
winter at Valley Forge ranks IN the
war history of our revolution
There is no space here to go into
these stories. and it is probably just as
we'll not to dwell upon things that can
not be helped and that have already
passed. That France breads this win
ter, that the poor of Paris look for
ward to il with as much horror as they
do to the trenches, there is no gam
saying 1t is said that they pinned their
hopes on the British taking Lens be-
fore autumn, but now it is said that If
the Canadians succeed in their attempt
TO occupy this great coal stronghold OF
France il will be nothing but nest OF
he no mining or industry there for
months or years to come. Such il the
talk.
Reflected in Clothes.
The cold winter and the coal famine
have been strongly reflected in the new
autumn fashions for France and Amer
ica When our people ask why these
thick yelours. these deep pile woolens.
the worsted embroideries and the con-
-saF w
and ears should come upon us so sud
denly after a decade of diaphanous fab
RIGS, the answer is cold minus coal
Paris has not reflected the war itself
strongly in her sartorial efforts as
she has reflected her suffering of last
winter. These new gowns are in the
way of preparedness. 1t may be that
We Will suffer from a lack OF coal
ourselves before next spring. II the
alarmists speak truly. and. therefore.
we will welcome the clothes that were
born from the experience of Paris in
pain
The new velour needs a chapter in
itself. The master weaver, Rodier, has
presented a new kind that is soft
as it is thick. and the world of weavers
treats this accomplishment one of
great Importance to the world Of
fabrics.
There are also several varieties OF
the kind of material known as Bolivia
cloth. which is not woven as well in
America as il might be.
There is soft. thick quality of vel
veteen in black. navy blue and beige.
which is offered for an unusual num-
her of one-piece frocks made with tai
lored severity. Nelveteen never looks
as warm as velours de laiue or duyetyn,
and the reason 1t may be chosen for
one-piece winter frock is that the cold
Of our winters is we'll established. It
is not an accident, and. therefore, we
have to prepare for gowns that can be
worn beneath great topcoats of fur or
wadded cloth
The wooden gown is at its best today.
In the clemency of climate which lasts
throughout a great part of the United
States until the first of January these
soft wooden gowns, under fur capes,
serve very well for the street
Tho richness of their dyes, the sup