New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-12-09

tie water and rattles on the WOOD OF he
toats and settles in pools in all the hollows
OF the stones. Seen under that stormy light,
Just before sunset, with hot yellow moon
struggling 90 come through the rain clouds.
Venice is as If yelled, and all its colors take
on a fine deep richness, seen through water,
ike polished stones in seApools. The slender
roasts. the thin black network Of the rigging
stand ont delcately, and with an almost livid
distinctness. The gondolas move like black
gtrcaks on the water. For moment the
vest brightens, as the sun goes down behind
= space Of sky that burns white and shivers
Gully. streaked with dim yellow and with
f.eces.
There was q roaring Of the sea all night.
ard IN the morning the water splashed under
IN. windows, almost level with the pave
ments. The whole Gludeeea was swollen, and
rose everywhere into gray waves, tipped with
white as they fell over. Ssagrils had come
{, from the sea- and few in circles over the
water. dipping 20 the crest Of the waves. and
curying around the boats laden with timber
that crowded close together against the
2stter, The wind still blew with violence.
md q little rain fell. The sky and the water
were o. the same leaden gray. and the sea
ctlls fying between water and sky shone Ike
white fakes OF snow blown b. the wind.
lSvE> HERE is 10 city IN Europe which con
taias 80 much silence as Venice, and
he silence OF the Giudecca is more lonely
than any silence in Venice. Yet, by day
and night. there are certain noises. which
one learns 20 expect. becomes familiar
with. and finds no distraction IN: the roar
OF the sea. when there Is no wind on the
seawalls. dull, continuous. envelopinS
sound. which seems unintelligiole as one
looks across at solid land on the other SIDE
OF water; the loud and shaking violence OF
wind; the hoarse, echong boot and trumpet
ing of great black or red steamers, winch
rass slowly, or anchor almost under the
a ipdo,vs 70 take i'm stores from the gran
aries that stand locked and barred and as II
empty, along the fondaments; the deep Splash
Of the oars Of barges, as the men VINO push
with long oars in the water set thc ohrr
against their rowlocks and begin the heaVy
rowing; the thin mash OF the one oar o.
%, ndolas: tbe CULTURAL cries, from water aud
Inc narrow strip OF land. all in thick yowels'
c'otted tocethcr without a consonant be-
tween: and the ceaseless busy happng 81
water upon the steps and around hulls Win
little noises never twice quite The zane.
~ saw Venice first by night and J walked
from the railway station 90 the Para alene'
and without a map or guide book, IN order 70
come into the midst Of the city a. casually
as possible. and so ind out few of ~ secrets
b. sunrise \ place has almost the shyness
% person. with strangers; and ITS secret
is not 20 be surprised by TOO direct inter
rogation. / have spent weeks IN the churches
Of Venice. climbing unon ladders. and prop
ping myself against affairs and lying on ny
lack on benches 10 looA at pictures; and
have learned many things about Tinioretto
and BeIiini and Carpaccio and Iiepolo when
| could have learned In no other way
but what have learned about Venice
Venice az a person, has come to me more OF
less uneonsciously, from living on the lat
tore. where I could see the masts OF SHIPS
and the black huIls Of barges. whenever
looked out of my windows on The canal OF the
Gudecea"