Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-07-08
Medieval Influence VS.. the
NapOleOniC Influence

the hundred. I'm block. and they have
/ been sworn In all the marketplaces OI
/ the civilized world for two years. The
/ splendid. sweeping robes in which
Guineyere met Launcelot have served
when modified to carry Mary Jane
to the department store TO buy Dar-
gain shirtwaists.
The swinging sleeves. the loose.
lcwelcd rope girdlo and the straight
widths OF deeply colored velvet worn
hy juliet when she went TO the somber
tombs OF the dead have been worn
by hluc-eyed Miss Flaper. raptur-
ously applaudingThe Midnight Follies.
What are the uses OF history" say
the designers, ~ not TO turn II into
present use?" And so. over and over,
the world Of apparel greets tho RISING
OF the medieval sun. season after sea
son, decade after decade.
The medlevalism Of the day need
not reflect the twelfth century OF the
carly Britons. II can go back into
the days Of the ByZantium and it can
reflect the colorful glory OF Italy un-
der the birth Of the Renaissance.
Every page In history suggests
whole field OF costumcry 90 the de-
signer who reads It Alright. No Won
der that we continue to wear the
those centuries,
The Napoleonic period is as deeply
impressed on the minds OF the design
crs. There was nothing medieval
about Franch costumery thruout the
reign Of The superman. but there We're
so many eccentricities, such n vase
variety of beautiful lines and curves
so much glowing narrative and tragic
romance attached 10 tho sweep Of a
skirt and the flow OF sleeve, that
the dressmakcrs never get away from
those pages Of costumery.
Today we are again threatened
with the Napoleonic We are almost
stated with medievallsm. The Direc-
toire beckons; the first empire lures
The madness of Nine Taluen Will
Is suddenly assured OF victory. when,
II history repeats itself she may go
quite mad again for n thort time,
thru the costumery OF her women.
In this glow Of feeling toward the
Napoleonic period we are not even
averse to the laced bodice and the
gathered skirt OF those "citoyennes"
who wrecked the Tuilleries and par
cclcd among them the finery of the
Austrian.
Already the colorod cotton bodice
lN' va WIN 'nINHt lUtltdu OF AdNl'llttt
has come into being. Tho Liberty
cap is/being brought out by the mil
liners in a modern form which Is still
the symbol OF equality and fraternity.
The high waistlinc and the long
skirt that drops In "A simple line from
bust % ankles have been introduced
by powerful designers, who have usu.
ally had their way in the world OF
fashion
Broad stripes in taffcta and soft
silk are offered for skirts, separate
pepmm blouscs. revers and hats.
And so II ls And is an airman were
In an airplane above the fashions OF
the hour on the battlefields of com |
merce, his map would show the Ma
poleonic struggling with the medieval. |
Both have cohorts OF strength behind |
them.
The Military Influence.
Between the medieval and the Ma
poleonic which still influence the !
Iraiority of clothes that are offered |
this summer. the new military dress /
is wedged, IL forms a salient that is |
being repidly strengthened and or
ganized.
The first woman that appeared IN |
n military outfit at fashionable res |
taurant at the noon hour received as I
much enthusiastic attention as uIu
the young arullcryman who stood be |
hind q rapid firing gun mounted In |
the lobby Of the hotel. with poster /
asking FOR subscriptions to the Liberty |
loan as n background.
The woman who wore the military |
costume had Just come off duty and |
was getting her lunch in as much ot |
a hurry MS she could. 1t amused her !