The Cook County news-herald. [volume] (Grand Marais, Cook County, Minn.) 1909-current, 1917-05-09

This ultra-fashionabIe gown has cre-
ated much comment. Cuirass bodice
and points on the skirt are of jet en-
broidery. There is a cape over the
shoulder Of black tu!e fringed with
jet.
lar success in this country through a
gown which he calls Aphrodite, and
which was originally made for Mile.
Chenal when she sang the title role
IN the opera last autumn in Paris.
Bulloz has changed the gown some
what, but everyone who was in Paris
last autumn remembers it. It is made
OF black chiffon in three long, Egyp-
tan tunics that hang Imply against
the figure, each one embroidered with
wide band of silver bugles in an an
Gent design. The upper tunic is longer
than the rest and hangs in drapery on
the floor when dropped; but it is skill
fully manipulated by the arm, which
can pass through a long, embroidered
Slit and drape the length of the chif-
fon and silver about the body as one
wishes. Chenal was given to the pos
ture of extending her arm in dramatic
gestures, bringing about, somewhat the
same effect which she gave to the
drapery which made her famous when
she sang the "Marseillaise" in Paris.
With this gown goes a tall Egyp-
tan headdress Of fine silver bugles and
beads set on black.
Egyptian Touch in Wraps.
Another Egyptian touch in costum-
cry is shown in the evening wraps for
spring, which are quite luxurious but
light in weight and texture. Taffeta
is used for this garment more than for
any other. The wide, draped collar
which rises above the ears and folds
itself down on the shoulders is the
preferred one, and it is used for street
wraps as we'll as evening ones.
None of this is Egyptian, but the
touch of Cairo is seen in great
square of bullion-embroidered silk
which is placed fatty against the back
OF the wrap. On some garments it
looks as though brilliant, ornate cush-
ion cover had been picked up and
neatly tackled at each of it's corners to
the loose back of the taffeta wrap.
The Egyptian Phoenix wing, which
| was decoratively used at one of the
fashion exhibitions in New York, sup
plies color for much of the new cos
tumery. The blue, green and coral of
| this symbolic bit OF Egyptian life is
copied in gowns, and especially in jew
elry.
With all this atmosphere Of the
East. of Cairo and Alexandria reflected
in the clothes of the hour, it seems
probable that the straight, plated skirt
that hangs plumb from the waistline
will outlive the one with the side
drapery at the hips. But even if both
remain equal in value and fashion, one
thing is certain-that there is no
chance for the skirt with the wide hem.
Since January, skirts have lessened in
| width below the knees, and although
the public refused to believe that the
wide, faring, umbrella skirt belonged
to day that was done, the dressmak-
ers have insisted upon it's use.
In Paris they diminished the width
of skirts gradually, but over here the
change appeared to come overnight.
although the prophets and experts had
been Insisting upon this revolution for
three months. The trouble with the
public is that it will rarely believe
what it reads, but relies on what it
sees. This is good, sound wisdom, but
it often keeps woman from being pre-
pared for change when it comes.
The shops have the canny business
instinct to supply the old with the
new as long as they've got both on
hand, but it is the duty Of the reporter
to tell Of what is coming more insist.
emily than what Is going. @
Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa,
per Syndicate.)