davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
High Wasted Effects Seen in
New Fall Coats.
One Smart Model Would Develop At
traetiVeIy in Bright Red Velour
With Black Collar and Cuffs.

The little coat here shown, designed
for a girl of six to ten years, Is de-
cidedly small, but it is simple enough
for the average home dressmaker. A
soft fabric of medium weight should
be selected. Yoke and sleeves only re-
quire lining, as the overlapping plaits
of the lower part give it weight and
warmth. The deep yoke with upper
part of sleeves cut in n with it is a
feature Of the garment. The lower part
of the sleeve is attached with several
rows Of stitching in heavy silk twist
marking the seam, and the same slight
trimming touch should be applied to
the lower part of the yoke. The simple
little rolled collar may be of velvet or
of %self-fabric. If velvet in contrasting
color is used the narrow cuffs should
also be of velvet.
This little coat would develop at
tractively in bright red velour with
collar and cuffs of black velvet. Navy
ranks first, as usual, in the juvenile
color card, but many vivid reds and
greens are also used, and various TIM
anu uTOWu suduSS are ulSO ldNOleu III
coats.
1t is interesting to note that all man.
ner of liberties have been taken with
the juvenile wafstline also. High
WASTED effects for girls Of four to
eight years are featured considerably
but the normal and low placing of the
waistline are shown as often. In many
coats for the winter of 1917-1S this elu.
sive line is ignored, the garments being
cut straight from neck to hem.
To make the little coat shown in the
sketch for a girl Of six to eight years
two and a quarter yards of materia
&c inches wide will be required, witt
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
CRAVE FOR WHITE BREAD
Americans In Paris Envy United
States Soldiers Home-Baked
War Ration.

Paris.-The decision that real white
bread is to be furnished the United
States troops now encamped in France
has awakened a feeling of envy and a
craving of appetite among Americans
living in Paris. For months they have
been eating the dark, heavy war bread,
and, as the English say, are quite fed
up on it."
An American hostess who vas giving
a small dinner recently wished to give
her guests a treat. She arose at five
o'clock in the morning to get to the
one place in central Paris where white
bread is procurable before the limited
supply was exhausted. She paid 10
cents for a tiny loaf the size Of the
ordinary 6-cent loaf In New York, and
1t occupied the place of honor on her
table that evening.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

been conducting experiments in light
alloys for many years, and during the
last two or three months results of
special interest have been achieved.
To carry out the manufacture Of the
newest type metal the subcommittee
on light alloys hopes to coordinate the
work being done in various centers and
of placing the information gained by
experimental work at the disposal Of
manufacturers.
Fabrics and Varnishes.
This information, in part, has been
sent to the United States and will take
its big share in the final achievement
of tremendous output.
Collaborating with the military all
department, the. advisory committed
for aeronautics has taken up severa
questions dealing with the use of fab
RIGS and varnishes and protective coat
ings. These materials have been test
ed for use in the tropics and for use in
the cold high attitudes and in the win
ter months IN the western front. Con-
illusions of Importance have been
reached in this line and changes have
been made in the materials and coat,
ings for wings with regard for the
changes worked by sunlight, rain and
other atmospheric conditions.
Aviation schools have aided greatly
in the work of perfecting bombs to be
carried by airplanes and the same
schools have also supplied valuable In
formation, regarding the use of aerial
instruments and the effect of altitude
on them. Two new types Of ~bombsights
have been tested and a new form
standardized. Lastly, the advisory
committee reports that establishment
of stations in the proper areas to re
port upon the development and pro
cedure of t~hunderstorms. They ar,
traced across the map and reported t.
the affected districts.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
DAINTY PATTERNS NO MORE
Loud coIors and Most Daring of De-
signs Now Predominant in All
Sport Costumes.

In general, delicate shades ano
dainty patterns have vanished from
sport costumes. It's a splash Of bril-
liant color today and the most daring
of designs. Gone are the sprays of
rosebuds and sprigs of forget-me-nots.
Instead we have big dots, wide stripes,
bold checks and curious Chinese, jap
anese and Egyptian symbols. The
sheerest of crepes f1aunt a design that
used to be thought suitable only for a
sport fabric.
Shantung, so fashionable, is striped
in the loudest of colors or shows a big
embroidered dot. The crinklcd khaki
kool, not satisfied with Its last sea-
sons beauty, now shows a Jacquard
design or the widest of fancy stripes.
There are cottons with a crepe
weave and cOttons and tussahs COM
bined, splashed with dots, in colors
that fairly dazzle the unprotected eye.
Circles, both on cottons and silks, are
favorite designs. A white khaki koOl
shows circles of Chinese blue or
steel and another shows citron-colored
dots.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
No WaistuIne In SIGHT.

So far as any change that n might
predict in the matter of new corsets
planned for the coming season, the
novelty all depends IN fabric, trim
ming and workmanship. Perhaps pink
will be used rather more than ever be-
fore. But as far as silhouette goes
things will go on much the same as
v Designers and dressmakers who
hoped to have a more shapely-or one
might say a more substantial founda-
ton upon which to fit the gowns Of the
coming season are doomed to disap-
pointment, for the woman of fashion
will still go on with her figure very lit
tie confined. The woman who likes to
be comfortable, and who knows that
in comfort is grace, will be glad to
know that among the new corset mod
els there will be rather more rubber
inserts to give elasticity where 1t is
needed most, according to the type Of
figure for which the particular corset
is designed.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
DOING AWAY WITH THE HIPS
Exercise Is Essential and II May Be
Obtained Outdoors or In ones
Room Morning or Night.

Exercise is essential If you would re-
duce the hips. In case it is impossible
to walk or exercise outdoors during
the day, you can obtain the same re-
suits by exercising in your room morn
ing and night, says an expert on this
subject. Even a few minutes will pro-
duce results in time If this exercise
is taken regularly.
1t sounds very simple, but you may
find it hard at first. Walk rapidly
around the room on your tiptoes, rails
ing each knee as high rs you can
without losing your balance. Continue
for at least five minutes, and then take
a cold sponge and a brisk rub.
At night, after you have taken the
exercise, dip a Turkish towel In very
hot water and drop it about your hips,
placing a dry towel outside and keep
ing it in place until cool. Repeat this
at least six times; the effect will be
much the same as if you had steamed
your face, and you should apply alco-
hol to close the pores.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
FoULARD MORE WIDELY USED
pressmakers contriVe Way to Use
Material in Frocks Intended for
Wear in the Afternoon.

Nine. Jenny gets the credit for in
Producing the combination of white or
candle and blue and white foulard,
This model did not meet with as much
success in the spring as 1t did later.
Those who did not accept it in its
entirety built up an adapted gown
which was quite successful. There
was a knife-pleated skirt of blue foul
ard, with loose Russian blouse of white
Organdie, belted, coIlared and cuffed
with the foulard. This Is still consid-
cred one Of the attractive frocks Of the
season.
The majority of women, however,
prefer yelling a foulard frock with
dark blue wolfe. This deadens the de-
sign and renders the staring white dot
vague and mist-like. The combination
of wolfe and foulard is kept for inform
al hours, but the dressmakers nov see
a way in which foulard Ear be made
to serve for the afternoon. This Is
done by draping 1t in combination with
cream chiffon, using a weave OF SILK
that is dyed in unusual colors.
In one such frock the foulard is in
broad stripes of cream and old rose.
The skirt is made of a separate piece
OF the material, with a coin dot Dor
der, and the seivedge is allowed to
drop at each side in order to show a
panel Of the cream chiffon skirt. There
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

is no chance that they Will be able to
Submarine" our transports before
they leave port. There is only a small
backing In congress for the attempt
which Is being made to prevent the
sending of National Guardsmen and
the new National army to France. OF
course If this attempt should be sue
cessful the war would be lost unless
the allies could win 1t for themselves.
officials believe that there is virtual
ly no chance that the Supreme court on
a constitutional question would decide
that the members Of the National
Guard and Of the new army must stay
on this side of the water. An attempt
to take a test case before the court Is,
however, n Of the blocking schemes.
The training Of the National Guard
troops will be quickened If the war de-
partment does not yield to the de-
mands of the politicians and make
brigadier generals out of unservice-
able civilians. The b%rigadier general
under the new fighting rules must be
a man of military parts. Washington
looks for quick results in the National
Guard training camps and as goes
without saying in the camps Of the reg
ulars. The word is for troops and
more troops quickly to move to the
front, and seemingly belief is that the
word will 60"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
Totals 1900

Ranking officers of the United States
army, ranking in position and in mill
tary sagacity, have come to take the
position of the French army men in the
matter Of the necessity Of the early
dispatch of large numbers of Ameri-
can troops to the training camps back
of the battle line.
A definite plan has been submitted
giving the number of divisions that
should be sent to France and fixing the
latest time limit for their arrival
abroad. 1t is not best to give the num-
bers of men asked for, o to fix def
nitely the time when the army men
hope they can be put into the place of
greatest advantage to the war cause,
but there is no harm in saying that the
more active minded army men are ask
ing that the order for double time"
be given.
Speed Up Preparation.
There has been an acceleration of
the pace of preparation in the army
and the navy departments, but things
in the military service are comparative
as they are In civil life. II the quick
spirited ones of the service have their
way the Germans will feel the Ameri-
can hand and hand grenades with much
greater force and In much greater num-
bers than the wise men of the kaiser's
militaristic machine had any thought
would or could be the case.
Little by little the civil authorities
in the land and sea departments have
been yielding to the advice, occasion
ally emphasized by the spur pricks, Of
the soldier element. There was a dis
position On the part of civilians for
some time to point out obstacles sup
| posedly in the way of quick support
for the allied lines of Europe. All that
army officers had to do was to point
to the campaign rule w5ica provides
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
VOLUNTEER SPIRIT
IS A LIVING THING

means for troops to surmount or to get
around obstacles.
There is n very distinct understand
ing in Washington that the transport
problem is in a fair way of quick So
luton. With this problem solved there
remains the problem of supplies, but in
this matter also hope has come in
great quantities"
Then there is the matter Of the pre-
liminary training of the recruits who
in large numbers have Joined the reg
ulars and the National Guard. In ev-
cry newly formed regular regiment
there is something more than a nucleus
men can be made into soldiers twice
as rapidly when they have a battalion
Of seasoned men to train and to rally
about.
The trained regulars who, with the
recruits make up the new regiments,
are of course in better shape for i'm
mediate fighting than are the National
Guardsmen, no matter how long the
state troopers may have been in the
service, but with daily drill and in.
struction it will not be long before the
Guardsmen are regulars. Therefore
the training of the Guard recruits
ought not to take much longer than
that of the rockies who have Joined
the regulars.
Make Rapid Progress.
Reports to the war department show
that the troops now In France have
progressed rapidly In the lessons of the
school Of the new warfare. 1t is pref
ty well known in Washington thai
army officers now abroad believe tina
one week in camp in France is wortf
a month in camp in the United States
This fact has Quickened the desire o.
army officers, and presumably that o
the civilian authorities, to Increase a!
rapidly as possible the number o
troops now preparing for actual con
fict.
While some persons are still tryinI
to delay democracy's work and thereb.
crafty the Germans, there seemingl,
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
War Department Gratified Over
Record of Four Months Re-
cruiting for Service.
1,75O,OOO MEN PASSED UPON
Regular Army officers Urge Necessity
OF Early Dispatch Of Large Num-
Der Of Troops to Training
Camps in France.
BY EDWARD 3. CLARK.

Washington.-War department Off
Gals are expressing their qualification
at the record of four months recruiting
for the different branches of the serv-
ice. The enlistment books show that
the volunteer spirit in the United
States is a living thing.
Recruiting figures compiled from Off
cial sources show that in the last four
months more than 1,750,000 men have
volunteered for the military and naval
services of the country. This does not
mean that this number of men have
been accepted for service, but 1t means
that volunteers to the number given
have tried to get into the ranks either
Of the army or the navy.
For every man accepted by the army,
navy, marine corps, the National
Guard, the officers reserve corps and
the various reserves there is official
sanction for the word that at least two
country were rejected for physical oil
other reasons, for every one man that
succeeded in passing the examinations
The regular army and the Nationa
Guard, according to the last figures
have each gained in four months time
about $4,000 men. Everyone of these
men was a volunteer. The rejection!
numbered something over one million
During the same period of four months
the navy has taken in for fighting pur
poses about $4,000 men. More thar
100000 young Americans have applied
for a chance to enter the various off
GERS training camps throughout tn,
country. The marine corps virtually l
recruited to its full war strength ant
every man Of them is q volunteer.
Plays No Favorites.
The war department officials Il
Washington believe that the selectiv
CONSUMPTION plan for a great army |
the best that can be adopted, becaus
1t plays nc favorites. 1t makes ever
man of military age, no matter wha
his social position or his wealth, tax
his chance with every other man. TIL
officials have tried to keep the voluI
teer spirit in everything that has gon
to make up the new National arm,
and seemingly they have succeeds
They say that the selected man will b
considered a volunteer.
1t is pretty well known that hundred
of thousands of young Americans,
they had not known that selective SER
Ice was coming, would have voluI
teered for the regulars, the Nations
Guard, or the navy. The fact tha
young men saw a chance to serve /
the new army, the war department of
Gals believe, kept many of them froI
entering the established services. 1t
held, however, that nearly 100000
men having shown their willingness
to enter the regulars or the Guard
proof enough that the volunteer spir
Is still vibrant.
Here is the table indicating the nun
Der of men who have volunteered fl
the AmeVican service in four months
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

q tenpound buffalo yistday, an lot o. small fries-moren we needed an we
divided with the neghbors." She looked as though she felt generous.
"Fish are good eating" remarked a samaritan wistfuly.
"Yes" admitted Aunt Jane, IAN SOS young rabbits and squirels-theres
a heap of em in the woods now, an when the ole man amt fsmn' he's
huntn, 1 looks afhr the garden. We got onions a n lettuces an Eaters an
cabbages huff to SEN to the army. Would you folks like to take some home
wild yo?' and she started to show where her garden treasures were staked
out.
Look here, Aunt Jane" said the puzzled emissary to the down-and
cutters, w heard you folks were hard u we cam 20 hip you out Du
f.
ITS Pat OATS hard up" the old woman explained. "Never seed a man
complain so"
Complaint And you giving food to the neghborsT
Eyes, sab, he's always complaimn, Pat is; says since the legal auction
lection he can't get no mo- beer ans you-al gdnf We'll, rs bhged to 20
for calm. I'll tell Pat yo' was heah. Good maWnin.'
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
Hair In Form of Gross.

Petersburg, Ind.--Lester Battle Is
going to leave his hat at home for a
while. After much study Lester de-
cided on what he thought would be the
best scheme to show his enthusiasm
for the Red Cross. He went to a bar
Der shop and whispered a few words
to the barber. Then the barber got
busy. When Lester left the shop his
hair was cut closely-except for a spot
on the back of his head, where the
hair was left in the form Of a cross.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

reply. "You see, Judge, my husband Is a actor and that was his part in
the show" The court cooked ITS head owl fashion and voiced a deep "AhemF'
"Oh, I begin to understand" the court replied.
Then the wife went on to explain she was not jealous of her husband
nor did she begrudge him his tete-atetes with the seagong creature, since
that was his part in the show with which he Travelled. She declared, how.
ever, he apparently "a 81 engrossed in his conversation with the painted
daughter of Neptune that he forgot to provide or his wife and child.
1t was disclosed also that Thran registered for CONSUMPTION under his
stage name of NARROW, but his attorney insisted there had been n o intent to
evade the call for military service. '-N
When he ws permitted to talk, the husband said he had broken off the
chat with the mermaid an was working for a patent belt company. He was
released his promise to pay So a week for the support of his child and
provide a home for his wife, and the case vas taken under Amusement for
go days
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
FOR THE SMALL GIRL

a quarter of a yard of velvet for collar
and cuffs.
Three buttons on the yoke and three
others ut the bottom Of the skirt effect
the fastening, although the average
small girl will probably disregard the
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

Sitting around In spots, job-lot human
ity hat included ribbon-bow young
sters and ~fat-jowled babies with moth
ers attached, and-off to herself-a
woman in a mourning shawl and crepe
veil-both rusty-who sat up with
ramroddy stiffness, wagging a fan be-
tween shabby kidded fingers and slow
ly shaking her head, right-left, right
left-just like that-right-left, right
Back of everybody a plain, de-
serving soul who had skidded off for a
weekend in the bright hope that a
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01
R%EGISTERED; FIRED"
THEN SUES FOR $1,000

Tulsa, Okla.-Alleging he was
discharged because of the time
1t took him to register for MILL
tary service, Albert Golden has
brought suit against Bumgarner
& Downing, furniture dealers,
for $1,000 damages.
Golden, who was employed by
the defendants as a teamster,
claims he left the store at 4:3O
o'clock in the afternoon to go to
his precinct registering place,
but when he arrived the line
ahead Of him was so long that
the registrar did not get to him
until 10 80 o'clock that night.
The following morning, he says,
he was discharged.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

patch of ptney woods with the bay in front and truly cabberandegg pone
would enable a certain person to keep IN digging dimevalue intelligence out
of a nickels worth of brains without having to use a pickax. And she was
o her way home, still shifting brny breezes spiced with cones, when-she
noticed the woman with a head.
Then she tried to read her magazine. Then she gazed out of the window.
Then she looked again at the woman who ws shaking her head; rghtleft
rghtleft; o and on, and on
You have curious and entirely foolish and likewise impertnent wonder
ings at sight of a head like that:
Had it been swayng with slow "reminiscences all the years that her hair
was changing from the brown of gh1hood to the gray wisps Of age? Did 1t
dead?
You can't say n word against Mr.. Mesmer! The psychic something's or
other that he gave his shame 20 SO hypnohzed the woman that when q COM
rade welcomed her at the station the first word she said was:
"Heno, Ami What are you shaking your head for?'
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

of water, switched imparhary from one side of Broadway to the other The
hundreds of pedestrians ran into office buildings, bank doorways and down
into the subway. The nozzle, flashing the pavement in every direction, sent
water over the monuments in Trinity churchyard, against the windows OF
banks and wet the clothes of those who weres slow in finding refuge.
The street cleaners became confused and forgot to turn off the water at
the hydrant, but, with the crowd, sought safety. The excitement continued
for three minutes, until someone dared the torrent and ran to the hydrant
shutting off the stream. The hose ceased to wnggle, and among the hundreds
who returned to the sidewalks there were scores who had been wet through
to the skin. Many of them were gls
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1917-09-01

touch of art and color as well. Inc
street cleaners were In the act of
flushing Broadway.
Suddenly the street cleaner hold
ing the nozzle lost control Of it and 1t
Topped out of his hands. For three
minutes Broadway and Wall street
had the nveliest and funniest session
that busy section has seen in many
months.
The hose wriggled about on the
pavement like a great serpent and the
heavy brass nozzle, spOuting q torrent