Evening star., 1917-09-09
zee Revives the Direct0ire Fashions for Autumn
with a gay color to mako them becom4

with a gay color to make them becomA
| ing to the skin.
| DrecolI started to make this kind Of
collar in the early spring, and 1t proved
quite a success on his coats. Today
every designer in Paris is making the
same kind of collar. and therefore. tho
conventional turnover neckptece with
revers will be abandoned.
The average American woman looks
very well indeed in coat that Is but
| toned to the neck. with a collar that
! flares above the chin to the ears. The
! incoming of this fashion. plus the sub
| stitution of the narrow for the moder.
| ately wide skirt. will undoubtedly cause
a most vital and far-reaching adjust
| ment of ones costumery. 1t Is not easy
| to arrange the new coat fastening out
| Of the coats we have been wearing. but
| the addition OF the trench mufiier. with
| its long ends that hang in front. may
| be convenient link between the old
| and the new.
| The mannish suitings which we have
worn in the street for several years
| Will give way to velour and duvetyn.
These fabrics were shown last Febru-
ary by Cheruit, Doucet. Beer and Ber-
nard, but the American women wore
very few suits made Of anything 30
| soft and pliable This season, II looks
as though suits Will be made Of moth.
| ing else.
The colors chosen are deep red. Amer.
| lean blue, dull slate gray. currant red
and tobacco brown. The latter color
be glad to welcome II. and yet II is ex-
ceedingly dangerous There are certain
shades of brown that make woman
look sallow. wrinkled and dull OF eye.
and satin. with their CLINT of gold and
brass, are unusually striking. but they
are rarely seen in woolen cloths.
| 1t looks though the very smart
woman will be dressed in a suit OF to-
bacco brown velour on the street In
preference to the blue. to which she has
adhered so steadfastly for ten years
This color lends itself well to the collar
and bands of sealskin which are pitched
| over the surface OF clothes by the
| French designers, as though peltry
| were the cheapest ornament in the
world.
It may be that this same generosity
will spell disaster to many costumes.
Not every woman can wear q suit With
splashes Of fur over its surface. Her
| figure loses its lines. her attitude loses
it's dignity and she looks as though the
trunks in the attic had too great .
temptation for her, and her dressmaker
1 had been told to put together every
| thing she could find in those trunks
| and call it suit
Because the directoire period Of
Essa by is tho
will be tight sleeves, slim bodioes.
waists that are shorter in front than
in back and redingotes in the fashions
| for autumn.
This new redingote is as slim as q
| pencil mark and opens over q skirt OF
another color. and sometimes Of an
other fabric.
| An immense amount Of black panno
velvet will be used over white satin in
this fashion. The underskirt and the
wide vest which shows itself beneath
the drapings of black. will be fAs.
tened with jet buttons in q straight
line from chest to instep.
Other redingotes are made for street
use and are strongly urged as eubsti.
tutes for the conventional short coat
and skirt. They are Of dull blue We
lour. for instance, mounted over cur.
rant red velour or satin fastened with
bone buttons. and belted with a bit Of
the red embroidered in blue.
+, The new waistcoat is an accessory Of
extreme Importance. 1t is longer than
the coat in some models. it is made Of
all varieties of material, it is plain or
it is embroidered. and it is often belted
Another fashion that will be in high
favor is the use of the mannish checked
jacket with a plain velvet skirt.
Still another fashion that is worth
knowing about is the use of the sepa-
rate evening bodice, which is a revival
from other epochs of extreme econ.
omy.