Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-07

red in clothes The scarlet danger
sign should be put over all the ,vua-
ters where red fabrics are placed, and
IL should be worn by the manncqHn
who parades In red gown. 1t Is
the color OF conflict; It is not the color
OF peace. The woman who can wear
IL we'll is thrice blessed. sartorially
speaking. and she Is apart from her
relghborg because she is q rare type.
None OF this applies TO dark red.
No danger sign Is needed against the
rich wine surface that brings ou.
what is best in woman's complexion
and ewes The well-known Burgundy
shades are offered. They come in
duvetyn, serge. satin, velvet ana
Rodler's weave OF the so-called Bo-
| livia cloth. which the American weav-
ers are initiating in a successful way.
An Epidemic of Gray.
The world has gone on for n CEN
utry or two feeling that gray is the
tone of sadness and that It's Quakerish
ugliness must be. avoided II has been
a difficult color for decades. Womei'
have adopted II only when the silver
sheen on its surface made II possible.
This season. however. all doubts aro
dispersed by the superior tones which
the dyers have impaired to the Vari-
ous fabrics grouped under the elastic
name Of gray.
There is moonlight gray. which may
spell peace. but It is In close prox-
unity TO artillery gray. which stands
! for death. There is the gray OF gran
, ite and the gray OF London smoke.
There Is the gray of New England
sea mist, and there is the tone that
ono gets from the glitter of cut steel,
These grays are not used alone tnls
season. They are combined with
horizon and Chinese blue. with jade
and Egyptian green. with incendie
red. Mandarin yellow and amethyst
purple.
The silver gray tissues are loaded
with rhlnestones, Jet. cut steel anu
periwinkle blue beads. An artistic
dressmaker can do anything she
pleases with gray today. She regards
4, as a neutral foundation for what
ever color scheme. F'lorentine or Fu-
turistic, that she cares to work out on
It's surface.
Serge is good. II II is soft: other
wise II shouid be barred. The funda-
mental thing 10 TO get the fabric ina,
clings to the figure. All others must
be put on the opposite side of the
scale. Nothing must have any chance
tc flare. Even tho the hustle is an
accepted fashion-and by the way, II
Is an American production that has
met with an unusual success-it must
be arranged in a soft fabric that mere
" drapes itself over the end or the
spine and does not show any ambition
TO project itself into space.
Gabardine has twill In IL ana,
therefore. II must be-chosen for frocks
that are not to be draped. Veiour
and duvetyn are chosen above all
other fabrics for topcoats, street frocks
and tailored suits.
Velveteen Is used for one-picce
gowns and top coats. and velvet in
the new weaves that are sufficiently
supple To resemble satin, IL CHOSEN
for evening gowns as an offset to the
rich, heavy satin that has peen
brought back into the market.
Theor In no lack Of stockinette 1er-
vented by Rodler. who leads the world
of fabrics. II Is strong and durable
and II is sometimes double-snceo
showing q brilliant color on the IN
side, which Is sparingly shown to the
public when 1t is built up into gar
ment.
There is on lack OF stockinette Jer-
soy. but, so far, II IL not possible 10
see any success for silk jersey cscep.
in such weaves that may fool anyone
into believing that they are wolfe.
One-plece frocks for the house or
for the street under smart topcoat
are exceedingly good In this new
weave. which is n follower OF the va
rious voiles and georgette crepes that
have gone before II, The Pariss dress
makers used It last spring, but the
experts tell us that II has been i'm
proved upon and that II is far more
effective than satin and strikes n new
er note. Doeuillet has used a good
deal OF II In his new models: so have
Jenny and Premet II lends itself to
the flat pleating that we have bor'
rowed from old Egypt and used when
ever we were confronted with the ne
cessity for a graceful, straight line.
Brocades arc more effective be-
cause they are not so common as they
have been. They have been fashioned
with skill and care and they show It.
Blacks brocades with leaves Of silver.
pale gold brocades with great flowers
OF dull blue and black midnight blue
brocades with spreading leaves Of sill
yer and mauve. are some OF the de-
signs that are built Into evening
gowns that have waists made OF Q