davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

supplying ambulances for the front
and the like. Scarce a day passes
or has passed, all summer long
when the fashionables have not gath
cred somewhere. at some important
summer colony in behalf of war relief
work; and if beautiful gowns have
been worn at these garden fetes, these
amateur theatrical performances,
these committee meetings in aid of the
Red Cross. the more praise for the
wearers who do not stint on things
that give occupation, and food, to a
vast army OF sister women
CalIot Fayors Lace Frocks Over Color.
Lace, lace and. more lace, says Cal
lot; cream lace for day wear, white
lace or black lace for evening wear;
and always under the lace chiffon or
satin. Few Paris dressmakers make
the mistake Of using black lace di-
rectly over the skin; that is bodices
and sleeves are nearly always lined
with chiffon or tulle so that there is
no striking "show through effect. An
important point. this, which too many
American dressmakers and manufac-
turefs have overlooked. Black lace
worn directly over the bare arms and
neck is crude rather than artistic in
effect. In white laces the yelling of
airy fabric beneath is not as import
ant but gown is almost always more
beautiful for this misty layer of
fabric between flesh and lace pattern.
Cuff HENS Abound.
The dainty white lingerie frock was
noted on one Of those hot afternoons
of early August at a Southampton af-
fair in aid of an ambulance fund.
The frock. from Le1ong, is of sheer
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
signs are hand wrought and the work

signs are hand wrought and the work
gives unemployment to thousands and
thousands of needlewomen who sadly
need 1t. these days. The metal trim
mings too. Here Is another special
style of establishment which makes
work for many people. Perhaps you
have wondered why, when metal is at
such premium, women's frocks are
being trimmed with metal threaded
laces? Do you know that all these
beautiful metal Iaces and trimmings
are made from scraps and shred-
shavings of metal picked up by CLEAN
ers on the floors of the ammunition
factories. Another beneacent ar
Management by which thrifty France
gives extra work to hundreds of peo-
pie! Have you noted that .'lace gowns
are to be particularly fashionable this
coming fall and winter?" That means
that thousands of lace workers will be
kept busy on machines and hand
frames! So Paris takes care of its
workers. the while it sends out its
frocks to the fashionables. And the
fashionables, buying and wearing as
m any frocks as ever they did are do
ing their bit, to help.
Beautiful Gowns Worn AT Charity
Y Affairs
One does not hear SO much OF pri-
vate dinners and balls this summer as
used to be the case. Yet the fashion
ables seem just as busy and as CAV as
ever. tits conceivable that the costly
gowns Of a fashionable woman attend
more functions for war relief work
than the gowns of many stay-at-ho home
women who are economizing in their
own domain but have no larger in
terests in feeding Belgian refugees.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
Pretty Knitting
Bags of Ribbon

D>EFORE INVESTING In silk ore
IN satin for a knitting reticule that
~ will not be too DESTINATIONS to
carry about with the autumn Co.'S
tune, stop and think how very de-
sirable the broad. rich patterned RIB
bons are for this purpose. There are
ribbons wide enough to make con-
yenient little knitting reticule with
out piercing out or sewing two widths
together; and In alternating black and
Powered ribbons there is opportunity
for great variety of effect. A very
handsome bag was fashioned of TIRES
strips of warp print ribbon In rich
rose, maroon and black shadings, the
wide ribbons being set together with
inch wide black satin ribbon. machine
stitched along both edges. The lining
of the bag was of rose colored satiu
and black silk cord, run through q
casing, formed the handles Another
good looking bag is of blue and black
ribbon; two widths joined by black
silk herringboning, and the widths of
ribbon are used horizontally Women
are using these small knitting bags
for pickup work when away from
home. The almost-completed sweater
with its long needles demands q ca
pacious knitting bag. but socks, wrist
lets and even muffiers can be carried
comfortably in the smaller bag. with
space for purse and handkerchief be-
side.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

hose, however. is correct with a sport
shoe although many of these dainty
stockings appear above heavy golfng
boots and flat-heeTed tennis oxfords.
Women will wear sheer and fine silk
stockings If they please with sport
shoes and no one can make them do
otherwise. Even the sturdy plaid and
striped wool stockings of the Scotch
and the English woman-stockings de-
signed for tramping over moors or
golf hills-when brought to this coun--
try were Immediately copied in thread
silk weave. The champion woman
tennis player of all these United States
wears white silk stockings daintily
clicked in white with ordinary but
comfortable white canvas "sneakers.T-
And one wonders how many pairs
of these dainty silk hose she wears out
a week in the strenuous avocation she
pursues.
deliberately embroidered. clocked or
beaded are all the new silk stockings
for fall whether they are to be worn
indoors or out.
Five new embroidered stockings of
exclusive type are illustrated. The
three stockings in the center are of
gray thread silk, and are embroidered
with self toned silk and tiny steel
beads. The patterns having garlands
over the instep or just above it Will
/ show off best with slippers; but in
any case a beaded stocking will be
most comfortable worn with a slipper
and not a boot that fits closely around
the ankle. The stockings at extreme
left and right of the illustration are
embroidered in clock design and. not
at the front-over the instep. One
pattern is done with small white beads
and white embroidered DOTS on a
ground of blue silk; the other shows
a butterfly motif and clock wrought
with sparkling sequins and beads on a
stocking of gold colored silk.
2 For autumn wear there are hand
knit wooden golf stockings in ribbed
effects and in gay plaids. A pair of
these hand knitted stockings costs a
substantial sum, and now that women
4 have learned to knit war socks very
creditably there Is no reason why
they should not knit sport hosiery for
i themselves and for each other. Two
pairs of machine made wool sport
stockings are pictured. These are
beautiful in texture, light and fine and
much more comfortable for an all
days tramp than cotton or Isle hose.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

organdy inset with lace landings and
deep cuff-hems of very fine machine
embroidery are turned up at the edge
OF skirt and sleeve. The crossed sash,
defining the hips over the gathered
skirt, is of cerise ribbon. The hat of
-cerise straw is faced with black velvet
and edged with split ostrich:
Trains On New Evening Gowns.
Because Paris is giving dignity rath-
er than gaiety to the seasons evening
costumes, trains are much in evidence.
Two beautiful new evening gowns are
pictured. The draped model of black
satin is especially handsome and was
worn in Washington at an important
dinner given to notab1es from am al
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
NOW IS THE TIME TO REDUCE

- HERE ARE SO MANY tooth
some, non fattening things to
eat at this season, that reducing
- by diet is not at all a hardship;
as it is apt to be later on, when sweets.
rich gravies and hot breads appeal
more than they do just now. Dieting
in midsummer Is not always a wise
proceeding, for lack of food combined
with enervating heat are apt to pull
down the vitality too strenuously; but
with the cooler days of ember one
may go into the reducing business
without qualms.
z 1t has been pointed out, and may be
reiterated again and again that in
order to reduce the weight by putting
off superfluous fat it is not necessary
to confine ones self to a few unpala-
table foods. almost inevitably the sort
of foods ones taste rejects in happier,
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

lied country. This also is a Callot
gown and the management of the
satin draperies is mastery. The bod
ice is of white lace over white chiffon
with pearl bead shoulderstraps and a.
deep blue rose is caught against the
corsage at one side. The earrings have
deep blue stones set in pearl mount
ings. The long lines of this draped
gown will appeal to the promoters of
the new svelt1ine movement In dress.
By careful regard for cor
rect proportions and with the ideal
of harmonious lines always in mind,
styles for the stout woman have been
evolved. through this sveltline princi-
pie which have done wonders for the
large figure, giving it grace and even
litheness and subduing its redundant
curves into complete harmony of
silhouette. ~
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

non-dieting times. One may eat a
great many things
here is the important point: 1t is
sparingiy that does the business. Stop
before you have had enough This
may make you a bit hungry for the
first few days, but stick to your de-
termination and do not yield. to the
temptation to exc out sparse meals by
between-meal nibbles. Once there
was a woman who dieted sternly for
a month-at meals; but between
meals consumed various sweet cakes
which she simply could not resist
when she passed the bakers shop. And
would you believe 1t, she wondered
why her weight would not come
down? After the first few days of
eating sparingly, the system will not
demand a surplus of food as 1t used
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

to do and the diet process viii be
found much easier.
Sweets must be sedulously avoided
and tea and coffee must be taken un-
sweetened. or sweetned with sacchar~
inc tablets Potatoes will be stricken
absolutely from the diet: butter also.
And 1t will be found that without
butter. bread. and esp ecially. hot
bread will not have a strong appeal
No water may be taken at mealtimes.
but half an hour afterward one may
drink as much as one pleases. Fruits
salads and fresh vegetables-except
csrn-may be enjoyed, fish, meat and
poultry also. If one is very hungry
for something sweet. q tiny bit OF the
delicious dessert 80 hard to resist may
be INDUCED In occasionaIlySbu
never. oh never. a whole saucer Of
desserti 3
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

The woman who will have none but
silk stockings can secure these also in
the gay plaid and striped effects. One
of the silk sport stockings pictured
has Richelieu ribs up and down and
crosswise stripes in deep blue. The
upper part of the stocking is gray,
the lower part paler gray. Another
silk sport stocking has rose colored
stripes and groups of black lines in.
crossbar effect on white ground.
There are holder colorings and various
Scotch plaids which ,look well with
the dark worsted materials of fall
sport suits.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
No Candle Light for
Paris Golf ftlre Shops

IN DRASTIC measure OF war econ
ID omy recently announced in
. Paris. DEGREES that, in order to
effectsa saving IN coal and fuel. shops
shall not be illuminated after dark
with gas. electricity, petroleum or al
cohoi. Candle light only will be per-
mitted, and even restaurants must
close promptly at the Curfew hour.
Exceptions are made. in the candle
light edict, In favor of shops dealing
I'M tobacco, drugs and couture supplies.
Could anything demonstrate more
emphatically the Importance in which
the art of the hairdresser Is held in
Paris? Society may do without its
midnight suppers, its music. its books.
its trinketry; but its specialist Of the
couture must be accessible at all
hours! Imagine hair shop being
given precedence of this sort in New
York-or even in London!
Yet neither the Londoners nor the
Americans. in the opinion of Parisians.
give nearly enough thought to the
coffrure. A badly dressed head is the
exception in Paris, where even the
shop girl and the little errand girl of
the milliner is apt to be coiffed care
fully and smartly. In Manhattan, on
the contrary, the rows of appallingly
dressed heads in orchestra seats at
any theatrical performance. are a real
" painful spectacle to one sitting in
the rear row. Only at gatherings of
the socially elect are perfect coiffures
the rule: otherwhere one notes indeed
gorgeous costumes and costly jewels.
but these are often accompanied by
atrocious hairdressings. The average
american woman seldom calls in the
services OF professional coiffeuse;
she prefers to wear her hair always
in the good old way that has become
. habit. Many times that way is fair
IL becoming and presentabIe from q
front yiew-the view that faces her in
her mirror-but how far from perfect
IL is from back view one may Judge
by sitting behind her at the play.
1T 10 pity that American women dc
not give more patronage to profess
sionaI hakrdressers-those women al
least who have not well trained maids
to see that their coiffures are correct
from all points Of vantage. The ex.
pert professional hairdresser will keer
the hair. in excellent condition will
fortn1gntly shampoos. Occasional
smuggling and clipping and a week.,
acalp massage.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
WEAR CONSERVATION APRONS
WHILE YOU CAN.

N ERHAPs YOU THINK you can
get just as good results, canning
the late summer vegetables. in
an ordinary Bingham apron: but you
will feel ever SO much more In the
spirit of the thing IL you wear a reg
ulation canning apron. correct in sve<r
detail according to Official specifica-
tons. This uniform of the canning
brigade is both sensible and good
looking. 1t is rather frock than an
apron and can be worn minus frock
beneath 1t while you work over the
hot stove on a warm September day
The apron-so-called-h sleeves
with deep. pointed white cuffs. and
deep, pointed white collar makes the
neck opening quantity becoming
Enormous pockets are set at either
side below the hip. and a narrow belt
starting from either side of the front
panel. draws the apron into trim lines
at the waist
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
oMEoNE HAS sA

~ o4i1 HC4SG Has SAID, rather
cynically, that the foot that does
s1 not attract attention is no longer
considered well dressed And in
certain sense there is truth in this
statement. A nicely booted, daintily
stockinged foot does attract attention
but then. SO does any other item of
dress that is attractively smart. This
kind of attention. no wearer Of correct
apparel is likely to resent: If he were
OR she, since feminine footwear is
under consideration at the mofnent-it
Is. not probable that such footwear
would be selected and worn. At any
rate. shabby or i'll shaped boot ac-
scompanied by a coarse stocking would
be equally apt to attract attention.
of a sort no wearer possessed of taste
in dress would be likely to relish.
Footgear is a most important item
in the costume, these days, and dis
regard of its Importance can easily
spoil the whole appearance, so far as
clothes are concerned. Few women
need to be taught what is correct in
shoes and slippers but great many
mistakes are made in the choice OF
stockings. One sees more inhar-
monious effects in hosiery than per-
haps in any other detail of dress
not glaring errors in taste so much as
evidences of ignorance in the canons
of correctness
Black stockings, for instance, are
no longer worn by smartly CARRIED
women with anything but mourning
apparel on black costumes of formal
character which demand black Access
SORES to complete a color scheme.
The same may be said of white stock
ings. These correctly accompany
white sport frocks. white tailored suits
and white indoor costumes when white
buttoned boots. white sport shoes or
white slippers are worn. White stock
! ings with black clocks are worn also
with patent leather slippers or pumps
with some afternoon and indoor
frocks; but a white stocking is not
correct with the buttoned cloth
topped walking boot or with tan
leather golf boot any more than q
=
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

ards of correctness.
Just at present gray is a safe shade
in hosiery for most occasions. There
is wide range between the palest pearl
gray tone to a dark gunmetal gray,
and between a faint ashes of roses
gray to rich taupe shade. Paris is
wearing gray footwear this season and
Paris carefully matches the stocking
to the boot or slipper. French boots
are of suede, and in American eyes
are rather clumsy affairs with their
slightly rounded toes and skeleton
arrangement of straps over ankle and
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
A LIBERTY BELL FOR THE
BREAKFAST TABLE.

- HEsE ARE DAYS of patriotic
n expression, and even the bell
that summons a maid to
bring the coffee may express
its share OF patriotism. The new
table bell hasa base of bronze with
design showing a wreath and the
word Liberty" in raised letters The
bell is lined with gold and has q
bronze handle in the shape OF an
eagle, its wings closely furled and its
head upheld while its talons grasp the
top of the bronze base.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

wear in darker shade than Paris en-
dorses. Buttoned walking boots for
the new season have gunmetal vamps
and. tops of very dark gray cloth and
with them are worn dark gray silk
tockings-which, of course, take a
little lighter tone over the flesh. But
one may wear the very palest gray
silk stockings with a black street boot
and still be correct. Another smart
shade is beige. though beige stockings
do not look so well with gray topped
boots as they do with black pumps or
bronze footwear. Neither gray or beige
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16
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instep. English women adore suede
footwear which does not make the
substantial English foot look any
smaller than it is and, Americans in
their slim, pointed toed, pumps of
vanished leather look askance at the
loose suede slipper on an English
foot. America also favors gray foot
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

The white evening gown pictured,
robbed of superhuous train. long
sleeves and yoke, has become a charm
ing dinner-dance gown since its FIRST
appearance as a wedding gown in
June.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-10-16

black stocking is.
Stocking wear is a study all in itself
and to the average woman, the display
Of colored, embroidered and plaided
hose in most department stores now,
lis rather bewildering-if one must
choose not by personal preference but
according to certain unknown stand
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1917-06-18

Mrs. Marguerite Sauer of Tompkins.
Vile, Staten island, has offered her
house to the government for a Red
Cross hospital and herself as nurse;
Mrs. Sauer came to Manhattan the
other day, and at the ferry entrance
at the Battery asked policeman to
direct her to someone whom she could
offer her services and her property.
She told him that her husband had
volunteered in the navy, and she did
not feel like allowing herself to be out!
done by him. Mrs. Sauer was referred
to Col. Jefferson r. Kane Of the Amer
lean National Red Cross society and
she Immediately wrote long letter to
him. -
The house in which Mr.. and Mrs.
Sauer live and which she has offered
to convert into a hospital, has a 30;
foot front and is nearly double that in
depth, and has grounds running back
to the next street. Its rooms are
large, light and airy, and there is
large cupola on top resembling the up
per part Of lighthouse with large win.
dows all around and commanding
view of New York harbor. Mr.. and
Mrs. Safer are both Germans and have
a twelve-year-old daughter living at
Dresden, Saxony. !
Photo shows Mrs. Marguerite Sauer.
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1917-06-18
CHANCES Of BEING DRAFTED
FIGURED OUT BY GARDNER

supporting his dependent mother than
casual earnings in industry or his pro
feSSiOn.
It is expected that about one
man in three will measure up to
the physical requirements. These
requirements will necessarily be
relaxed from the ssevere tests ap-
piled to the regular army and will
come nearer to those applied to
the state militia.
If it should happen that exemptions
for occupation, physical defects and
dependent relatives reduced the num-
Der in any community below the num-
Der required from that community an
other drawing would be made from
the registration list and new candi'
dates would appear before the exemp-
ton boards.
These exemption boards will be in
many cases the same officials who did
the registering. 1t is not necessary,
however, that they be the same Off
Gals Nominations for exemption
board duty are now being sent to the
president and by him forwarded to
the war department, where they arc
investigated to discover their Qualifi-
cations to serve on such boards.
Appeal is allowed from the decision
of exemption boards and ono of the
big jobs now faced by the war de-
partment is the creation Of these
boards of appeal, one in each federal
judicial district Judicial districts are
quite large and such appeal boards
will be very. busy after the exemption
boards have done their work, hearing
cases brought to them on appeal
It is not necessary to have
lawyer to make this appeal. The
purpose is to have everything in
formal. If a candidate feels that
he is not being fairly dealt with
by his local exemption board and
that he has proper ground to be
excused he may come before the
appeal board and tell his story.
The work of selecting from the reg
istered men is expected to occupy
nearly two months. BY that time the
government will have a roster of a
half million or more able-bodied and
more or less foot-loose young men.
These young men will not be called
until the cantOnment barracks are
The Bismarck tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, N.D.) 1916-current, 1917-06-18
Bv gibson GARDNER.

Washington, d. c.. June lS.-Now
that we have registered for selectivc
service, what next?
This question is in the minds Of
about 100000 young men and their
30,0O0,000 relatives.
The answer in some of it's details
will be delayed for several days. 1t
is contained in regulations now being
worked out by Provost Marshal Cen
eral Crowder and il must have the
final approval Of the secretary Of war
and the president.
Some of the questions; however, can
be answered. For instance, how are
the men to be chosen? What are the
chances of being selected by lottery
and by exemption boards:
In round numbers million and a
half names will be taken by lot from
the ten million registered names. The
chances are about one in seven and a
half of being selected in this lottery.
Then will follow exemptions on the
ground of occupation, dependent rela-
lives or physical detects. This will
cut the number down to 100000, so
that the chance is Que in three OF
being selected from the list chosen
by lot.
Will married men hc excused? AT
this writing this question is unanswer-
ed. It may be covered by the regula'
tons which will before long be pub
lished. Probably it will be left large
ly to the Judgment of the local ex-
emption boards.
Will sons with dependent mothers
be excused? Again the answer is to
be found in the regulations and the
Judgment Of the local exemption
boards. a,.,,n.
Broadly speaking, it may he said
that those having dependent relatives
will be excused Not. all, however,
will be excused They are more likely
to be excused, however, if their Occu-
patton is important to industry, as,
for instance, if they are in a mtchan'
ical trade or farming.
If it should happen that tho man
with a dependent relative be lawyer
or have no regular profession he
might still be selected on the theory
that the $50 a month to be paid him
as a soldier would go farther toward