Evening star., 1917-10-14
United States Arumys Cookbook and How 1t Originated
BY WALLACE IRWIN.
FEW weeks ago the quarter
master generals department.
\ faithful to it's complicated

&
H., master generals department.
A\ faithful to it's complicated
q - task of. supplying everything
from shoes to sugar to a rapidly form
ing army of over a million men. tele-
graphed an appeal to fifty-eight leading
hotel proprietors throughout the coun-
try asking the loan of 3.s40 chefs and
expert cooks to teach the science of
gastronomies to the kitchens of our six
teen new environments
Now. the browned-in-the-oyen old mess
sergeants of our regular Army cooking
schools-of which four have fourished
for many years-are willing and anxious
To sit at the feet of the capable wizards
who have fed 5th avenue and fremont
street. but so great is the faith of the
mess sergeant in the Manual for Army
Cooks. issue OF -1sl6. that they pause
renectively in their scientifically ar
ranged pantries and allow-quite unoff-
cially-that maybe few of those fancy
chefs will go back to their hotels with
one or two choice recipes we'll worth
trying on the favored fellow who always
gets by the plush rope and calls the
head waiter by his first name.
As matter of fact, VI. Panchard fa-
NOUS chef of a New York hotel. was
loaned a while back in order to gain
sufficient knowleGEe of Army cookery
10 instruct National Guard kitchens in
Various New York armories. NJ. Panch-
ard spent two days at Washington bar
racks. where he studied the cuisine for
enlisted men; he went back to New York
with his observations. together with a
copy of the months menu. Today the
hotel seryes-by the enthusiastic
ommendation of NJ. Panchard-a mill
tary luncheon which is duplicate of
the noon meal which Uncle Sam dishes
up for his boys. The price of this meal
Is 80 cents. and it is the highest COM
pliment which Broadway can pay the
Army's camp and field mess.
In fact. the day of civil war hardtacIl
and Spanish war eInbalmed beef is long
gene Emergency rations. of course, the
soldier must carry to tide him over bad
situations where the enemy fire is hotter
than the bake ovens behind the line But
Tor feeding his armies in barrack and
trench Uncle Sam has become a domestic
scientist who thinks yin terms of nutritive
values and psychologist who realizes
that the stomach's digestive juices will
not respond unless the palate telegraphs
its approval TO the brain
Never before in the worlds history have
commanders of troops realized how abso-
H.
IT would not be going too far to say that
unit in motion is organized around the
commissariat. Closer than the artillery
TO the infantry, or the aviation division to
either. comes the group of rolling kitch-
ems. which. their great kettles boiling
merrlly all day, go mule-drawn into ac-
ton behind the marching men. Soup is
simmering, beef is stewing. the classic
beans are heating as the doughty cook
wagon bumps along. When the company
halts for noon the efficient cook is ready
TO announce dinner is served" In ap-
pearance It's as simple the organza-
ton OF dining car service. and in actu-
allty many times as complicated
In the months to come. when our Amer
lean rolling kitchens are perched rea-
sonably out of range on a SCARED field
somewhere in France and our boys from
home are emptying their plates of a gener-
Gus helping of Eel Rancho" stew they
may lift their bulletproof helfets to the
printed CONSIDER. comforter and friend
which has followed them to the trenches
the Manual for Army Cooks issue OF 1916
As matter Of history the present vol
ume of official recipes is about "A dozen
years old. 1t has been collected from
many sources by many wise men adorned
with uniforms and backed by general or
ders; but its choicest and best originated
In the instructive inimitable methods of
Aunt Diana. who concocted her champion
waffies by ''jes' tastin.''
In fact. large majority of the good
and fine points in Uncle Sans daily
menu for his fighters is due to an old
commissary sergeant of Fort Riley.
His name was Dunno. and he was
one OF those born to the grtddle,"