Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-08-26

1t would be odd If the edict for
elimination of waste material In
clothes that has gone forth from the
governing factors in dress on both
continents would be responsible for
the incoming of the hustle.
SO far as the expert observer can
see into the near future of autumn
>costumery which Is now being
planned, shown and bought, the only
actual elimination of material Is in
the width Of the skirt.
There is little sense In being oo-
stinate about the width OF skirts;
they're going to be narrow, and 1t Is
quite as we'll that dressmakers and
women accept this fact without cavil.
Once before In the history or
clothes there was tight skirt when
was said to have been caused by the
civil war in America. 1t became the
fashion after Appomattox and re-
mained in fashion for decade and a
half afterward. 1t was also caused
by the necessity for economy in ma
terial, as the four years war had
nearly exhausted the commodities or
this country.
The front and sides were pulled across
the figure so that the wearer could
barely step. and rubber bands were
put across the back below the waist
line, to draw the material up Into n
series of little puffs. This was as
much Of hustle as was permitted.
The persistence of this fashion has
been an amazing thing to those who
study clothes It's origin was In the
fashionable way OF walking called the
Grecian bend, which was the absurd
predecessor of the equally absurd
debutante slouch.
In the days Of the tie-back skirt
little girls would secure safety pins
by indirect means and pull the full
ness of their skirts back and up. thus
having a little fluff Of their own be-
low the waist They were always
caught at this by their mothers and
nurses, because the safety pins tore
the material and made gaping holes.
Again, in this day OF elimination Of
waste thru the necessities of war, we
are to be put into the tight skirt with
its fullness arranged at the back In
series Of slight flares.
1t is not possible to say with any
degree of certainty, whether this skirt
will be widely accepted when tho au-
prophecy, Is the duty of those who try
to give the news OF dress as 1t comes
out week after week
The American designer. as well as
the French one, has gone in for this
upward tilt of material at the end of
the spine and 1t may be that the later
fashions will accentuate it.
Whatever may be the fullness, tho,
at any especial spot on the skirt,
those who are regarding the question
of new clothes must remember that
the hem will be almost as narrow as 1t
was in the days of the hobble skirt.
There Is a marked tendency toward
the sheath skirt in several of the new
costumes The material sinks into
the figure after It leaves the waist,
and the hem provides only stepping
width.
The shortness of the skirt for street
wear Is necessary. In the spring there
was n decided tendency to lengthen
skirts, and many conservative women
adopted the fashion with enthusiasm,
but II a skirt Is to be exceedingly mar
row 1t cannot be long. 1t would be
too utterly inconvenient for women
who are plunged into a series of ac-
tivities.
1t has already been announced that
two kinds of Jackets will prevail in
the autumn. One is hip length and
one Is Aem length. The latter is
called n polonaise and the former is
called jacket.
The revival of the polonaise is
merely q contribution to the fashion
for top coats. One can use polon-
aise over any kind Of skirt and blouse,
and II It is lined In the colorful and
interesting way that prevails among