Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-23
By ANNE RIrrENHousE.

~ATRIOTIC action is demanded of
III women in clothes as well as In
food. There was an important
meeting in New York near the
first of December which consolidated
the cooperation of the trade with the
commercial economy board, which has
Its headquarters in Washington. The
government knew that 1t was useless to
appeal to women to save wool in the
building of their clothes, under the
present commercial circumstances of
clothes selling. The great majority of
women buy their clothes They do not
make them at home. They buy what
they can get, and they do not know the
amount of material contained in a gar
ment.
Therefore. the government made its
appeal for cooperation In the conserva-
ton OF wool to those who make and de-
sign women's garments. At this meet
ing 1t was resolved, and rules were
formulated, that no man or woman in
yards OF wool in any costume, and less.
x possible.
The response to these rules was given
not only by the dressmakers but by the
manufacturers, the mill people, the
ready-to-wear department stores and
private dressmakers. The decision was
far-reaching. 1t is now up to the wom-
en- of America to carry out for the gov
eminent a continued process of conser-
walton in wool. Tt will not be a hard
ship. One will not have to face the
chasms of doubt and despair that
opened up with the conservation of
food. The government does not want a
standardized uniform for women, such
as hosts of unwise but well meaning
woman advisers have offered as q solu-
ton of the clothes question.
Mr.. Dennison. member of the COM
mercfal economy board. who addressed
this meeting, insisted that it would not
suppress but express individuality If the
world of dressmaking were compelled
TO use its brains in developing good
looking gown out of four and a half
yards of wooden material
The government understands that
trade would fall OF and the commercial
channels of the country grow stagnant
II standardized uniform were adopted
by all the manufacturers and retailers
shops would be closed. Wage-earners
would be deprived of a living. There is
no necessity for such stringent meas
ures, or, as manufacturer expressed 1t.
such stupid mea sures. All that the
women of the country are asked to do
is not to make gown that has over
four and a half yards of wool in 1T, and
II Is the appeal of the government that
a woman should refuse to buy from a
tailor. and retailer should refuse to
buy from a manufacturer. garments
that have been made in defiance of this
urgent appeal
The manufacturers of mems clothing
have already met the response OF the
government by putting out of fashion
for the next season the belted coat. 1t
took more wool than was necessary.
The American tailors and manufac-
turers of ready-to-wear clothing will
cut out the long jacket for women when
II is made of wool, no matter how light
the weave; they will eliminate fullness
in the skirt and cut it as short de-
cency will permit. Three and half
yards of wool is a good average meas
urement for the majority of women, but
the government will look kindly upon
those retailers and dressmakers who
must deal with large and stout Gus
toners. and even here it is believed that
individuality of design and a plentiful
use of other materials. rather than
wool. will produce gown OF charm and
satisfaction.
AS Mr.. Dennison realized. it is not
possible to put through such a stu
pendous reform among 100,000,00o peo-
PIE spread over vast continental area