davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
Girls Are to Wear Overalls

The fashion editor of the Woman's Home Companion says:
 Something is going into the sum- mer girls trunk this year that has never gone into 1t before! Have you guessed already that 1t Is overalls, and that she has taken the hint from tho busy, capable women in Europe who have been doing mems work sinea the war started?
 The American girl is level-headed young person. and when she Is plan ming her clothes she considers careful ly their appropriatene That's why she is looking with favor this summer on the new overalls for women that have just been put upon the market.
 The shops are displaying them in cool. durable materials selected pur- posely for summer wear. They come in percale and denim in solid colors. and in most attractive stripes, and also in the very durable khaki shade. They consist of an easy-to-get-into coat and overalls which are full enough to suggest in themselves that they will be donned not by mere man, but very feminine young person"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

beauty that could seemingly serve as a scarf, veil or flounce on a gown. The highest artists in clothes always contend that it is more lovely to slightly veil the skin than to leave it as it is, and these colorful coats carry out that idea
 Jade green mauve, Mandarin yellow, Vatican purple and American beauty red are the colors that are most frequently chosen. AS green is the color of the moment in anything from tub silk frocks to Chinese brocades, 1t is natural that every woman who can possibly wear 1t. uses it for a transparent coat to enliven dinner gowns that ae new, as well as those that have given their full quota of service.
 The best of these coats are touched here and there with Oriental embroideries done in tiny crystal beads. The effect is as eastern as the Tai.
 These coats were possibly suggested by the tulle cape that is amazingly popular. The house of Callot has always stood for the lace or cobweb tulle draperies that swing from the shoulders over the arms and down the back of the froclx. and here and there, this custom of wear ing tulle cape was adopted by women who were guided by Callot in most of their costumery.
 Stage folk saw in the drapery chance to project gowns against a good back ground. and. more important than that, an admirable opportunity to use their arms and hands in graceful way But the fashion, as a fashion, still hung fire among the people.
 Now 1t has been adopted on five gowns out of 10, one can safely say. Even gowns of dark blue taffeta which are offered as demure and sedate for dining in public. have square decollete in front and dark blue tulle stretched straight across the back and arranged to fall in wing-like sleeves caught at the wrist, and in a sweeping double panel down the back.
 One gown of this kind has two Chinese circles done in dull gold. to enliven 1t.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

peacock feathers set in sticks of jade. One has a strong impulse to lift her up and set her on a tiny pedestal of teak wood.
 Over in Paris, the Chinese idea Is ex- pressed in the new gowns in lines as well as in embroidery and coloring The attempt Is made to swing a gown freely away from the body in excellent folds, and then gather it in somewhere near the normal wastline by girdle.
 There Is a dominant Chinese note in the house gowns. One Is made of jade like satin. The lining is of Chinese bluc green velvet. so thin that 1t looks like satin. The lining Is of Chinese blue crepe. The Mandarin sleeves completely cover the arms, and tho long, straight widths,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
of victory. There is nothing triumphant

of victory. There Is nothing triumphant about their procession.
 These are the clothes of women whose hours are given to war charities and war relief, whose leisure time Is given to reading literature that keeps them abreast of the tremendous movements on this planet, and whose thoughts are turned not to ragging the scale, but to the lines of khaki on the western front
 Mind you. they are not poverty stricken clothes. The American people are in arms against unnecessary saving and economy that means ruin to others. But they are revolt from what we have been wearing.
 And mind you, also, they are not ugly clothes. They do not conceal the figure in bulky masses or ill-drawn lines. They cover the figure. but they give due en- phasis to it's graceful proportions. They cover the ankles and feet, but they add length and dignity to the line from shoulder to heel.
 These clothes have been launched at the right moment and 1t is very pos sible that the mad desire for frivolous costumery will disappear as the autumn comes in.
 STILL THE CHINESE TOUCH
 Over from Paris, where those who represent us are watching every twist and turn in fashions, comes the state ment that the Chinese touch grows in strength and importance. It is no longer advocated by tho few. but by the many dressmakers.
 There is no wholesale repetition of Chinese costumery in these modern French gowns. The single garment that is taken in its original form Is tho Mandarin coat It Is used as an evening wrap. Tn Amer lea, or in that eastern part of 1t, where many smart social affairs have been oc- curing in June. there has been super abundance of Chinese coats worn after candlelight.
 One extremely good looking New York woman who has been told that she some- what resembles the artists drawings of Chinese faces. constantly appears in the evening with superb Mandarin coat worn over her frock. Her black hair, brushed back from the forehead and rolled into Chinese colffure. completes the picture. She also adds great fan of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
ICE-MINT ENDS FOOT MISERY
Here's Quick Relief for Sore Aching
 Painful Instantly and
 

Here's real foot fort for you at last. Say good-by to your old corn salve. liquids, plasters and other way-to end foot troubles is by the use of ce-Mint-a creamy. pleasant snow-white preparation. whose me dicinal ingredients are imported from Japan where the people have the world
 Rub little Ice Mint upon any tender, aching corn or callous. In stantly the soreness disappears and ing is imparted to the skin. In short time the corn or callous will loosen and may be lifted out easily with the fingers. No humbug. If your
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

feet ever feel the magic touch of comfortable that you will sigh with relief. It's grand. It's glorious. New shoes or long hours of standing have no terrors for the friends Of misery today. Do not neglect those poor. tired. burning. corn -pestcred feet any longer. for here is real foot joy for you at last.
 No matter what you have tried or how many times you have been dis appointed, Ice-Mint will give you just the relief and satisfaction that you have been longing for. Try It! small jar of Ice-M Mint. It costs little and acts so quickly and gently. It seems like magic. You'll cay oo yourself.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
GINGHAM PETTICOAT
The gingham petticoat has suddenly

The gingham petticoat has suddenly risen to a position of prominence.
 There have always been gingham petti- coats, of course, but they have been worn usually matter of economy. Now. however, the gingham petticoat is quite the thing to wear and 1t Is made in the most attractive styles. Sometimes it Is scailoped around the bottom, and per- haps trimmed with bandings or pipings of this is its prettiest fashion. It is usually made in stripes, checks or plads. although there there are some of plain blue or pink gingham that are trimmed with bandings or pipings of plaid or stripes cut on the bias.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

The flow of tourist traffic from the United States to the far east, which stopped at the outbreak of the war in Europe. has again commenced, and pres ent indications are that the current year will be one of exceptional travel through out the whole of the orient. All steam ship lines serving the far east from the United States report heavy passenger en- agreements well into the summer. while hotel reservations in all the principal oriental cities, and especially in Hong kong, arc larger than at any time in the past four years. In IFongkong the princi. pal hotels are already well filed
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
THE WEARING OF CALICO

One is on the bodice and one on the skirt
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

upward to the very top. in seven-leagued boots.
 The we'll known calico designs which have always been worn by the negroes of the south, now rank on a par with chiffon and voile. The best dressmakers are lending their talents to making ex- elusive gowns of this cotton fabric
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01
MADE IN JAPAN

Perhaps the first time you ever really appreciated a match made in Sweden was the first time you tried to use one of the new importation that has come to us from Japan. If you have been using Japanese safety matches-matches-w are put up in boxes and wrappings all most Identical to those from Sweden you are probably not very enthusiastic about Japanese methods of match manu- lecture. For it truly does seem as if half of these matches were made on such slender sticks that they broke as you tried to light them. and the other half 1t seems, are so poorly endowed with brim- stone or whatever it is that makes matches light, that they won't ignite when you do succeed in striking them
 But there is no doubt about the fact that we are using more and more of Japan's produce. and Japanese manu- facturers are coming in for an enormous amount of the goods and articles that are used by women in the home or for their clothes.
 As things now stand, Japan is facing the duty of supplying the whole world with silk for the coming season, and that, too, at time when silk will have to be used instead of wool to a considerable ex- tent.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

feather on satin and chiffon They use the original colors in some cases. but often, the shape of the feather is indi- cated and filled in with colors that a peacock never grew. One may be glad of that for the intense blue and green which peacocks do sponsor, are not ex- actly becoming to every woman and grow tiresome and monotonous when constantly used as motif for ornament.
 The transparent dinner coat
 TRANSPARENT DINNER COAT
 The French designers have brought out a Chinese coat, if one wishes to be elastic in phrasing, which smart women are wearing over half low or very low gowns In the evening, to give them a semblance of seriousness
 You know. there has been a continental opposition to the extreme decolletage since the day war was declared. There should be no regret about this, for the American woman, especially the young girl. had arrived at a state of nudity i, the evening that was disagreeable to even the most tolerant onlooker.
 There are several varieties of this din- ner coat among the dressmakers in Paris, and they are repeated over here. They are made chiffon, of strong silk net, and of that new, exquisite weave of Georgette. They are high in the back, have long, flowing sleeves, and present, in the hand, shapeless mass of flimy
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-01

Exaggerated youthful styles will give way to these, says America's most serious de- signer. The time has come for Fluffy Ruffles to go into eclipse-S Skirts will grow longer when autumn comes. Chinese effects gain in i'm portance through advocacy of great French designers.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12

He can perhaps expand HIS ALLEGATION that
the war is Gods great day" and invoke that
blessing on our arms which every priest has
done for every warrior since the beginning OF
time Or he may join hands with the New
Humanity of Nonconformist divines like DR..
Forsyth who in his recent volume, THE Chris
tian Ethics Of War" CLongmans) finds noble
part for Moloch in the larger scheme OF sal
walton
The New Humanity comes by the loving
and saving judgment OF God in the world.
History. thus read. thus made. is the passion
OF Christ writ large. It is salvation by
blood. IL is the salvation OF warning man.
because II is the salvation OF righteousness
in blood. and the establishment OF holiness
in Judgment. Mankinds requirement Of its
soul is Christs moral and bloody victory
worked into detail, His Justice made 10 tri-
umph. and sin made to yield it's opposite.
We have indeed more wars Of religion.
but still war may be made religious. duty
TO God and an agent Of His Kingdom"
Now, every nation, fighting for the right"
may be said TO hold that II is executing Gods
judgment But most sensible people think that
a humber statement of their cause is safer.
and the "salvatiOn-of-blood" doctrine Of Dr.
Forsyth will, we feel certain. not be popular
among our armies. They will distrust this
sanctifcation OF what they know to be foul IL
a necessary job.
But setting aside ali such accessions OF
spiritual pride, may still consider how far
the terrible experience OF war is still likely 10
bring that deepening OF spiritual feeling which
Is the essential OF every religious revival. The
sudden breakdown OF the fabric OF civilization
the revolution in the practical affairs OF life
and, above all, the widespread sowing Of death
and calamity over whole nations with the con-
tinual presence Of dread and horror, are well
calculated % shake men from torpor and in
difference, and 10 force them TO face ultimate
questions about the meaning and governancs
Of life.
But will the state Of mind thzs brought about
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12
Christianity in Worlds Great Conflict

:, the universe! Such will be a common
thought In many quarters IL will be this cry
Of suffering humanity that will put our churcnes
with their fundamental creeds, on their De
Tense II this is one danger OF the spiritual
situation another IS the facile growth or ne"
superstitions sown in light soil from Whlcf
deeper spiritual plants have been extirpated
The experience OF history teaches that every
great national or human catastrophe is attended
by the recrudesence OF old -lagicsl instincts
and barbarous rites embedded in the early char
acter OF man. and overlain. but not exungulshed
BY the higher controls OF civilization
Where the shattering Of conventional Dehets
has taken place the return, under some novel
guise Of the ancient mysteries OF totemism'
spir1tualism- clairvoyance. and similar prac-
tees is likely 10 compete for the spiritual "a
csncy How should this not be 50; We are
living IN an atmosphere OF chance. Il IS not
for 2othing that the old phrases OF parting
adieu and its English equivalent, have been
replaced by The best Of luck
Charms. mascots. talismans and portents OF
every kind have always been badges Of the
fghting life Nations AZ arms are likely 10 In
corporate this sort OF spirituality In their ordi
nary life as haIf-real. hslf-s2ortive element
Many natures may In similar spirit return 70
the established rites OF churches where the
ceremonial Is made attractive.
But the notion that out OF the material and
moral havoc OF this war some higher spiritual
religion will rise like a Phoenix from the ashes.
Is surely the widest OF imaginings- That
mankind possesses deep reserves Of power Tor
moral and spiritual recovery. is the sure as
sumption OF all who are believers in the original
virtues OF humanity and the continuous pro
cesses OF civilization IN which they express
themselves In time We shall recover, and find.
maybe an ultimate blessedness. But 20 sup
pose that some swift towering OF spirituality
Will spring unassisted from the field OF carnage
Is a defiance Of the fundamental laws Of moral
progress
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12

be favorable 10 religious revivals, and, If So 10
what sects? In the fighting life itself, IT Is not
evident that religion plays any considerable
part in spite Of the devotion Of army chap
iains. Our brave men go into the battle not
with the spirit of Cromwelis Puritans but with
the halfmerry pleasantly OF the caValler.
Splendid courage, a true sense or duty, Dut
little Of DR.. Forsyths righteousness IN olooo
The sheltering experience will not leave Ihe
general mind torpid, some imagine. Nor
will the whole speedily pass into oblivion, IKE
some hideous phantasmagoria Of the diseased
Imagination. There will remain too many ter
rible concrete reminders. in mutilation, IN sor-
row, and in suffering The mind of the nation
so far as We can generalize, will be IN condl-
ton of great instability and irritability.
The education OF the war will have been a re-
versal Of all the civiliZing processes Before,
ineligible order and causation prevailed IN an
evergrowing area of ordinary experience and
most people knew. more or less clearly, why
things we're done and how they happened.
Now, for an interval Of several years our minds
have been plunged into a whirl OF daily
miracles.
Things OF tremendous and novel Importance
are happening We understand not why or how.
Not only are the ordinary canons or reason
inapplicable, but the rules OF ordinary morality
are actually reversed The mot" Is removed
from almost all the Ten Commandments, and
the golden rule is made an open mOckery. All
are suspended for the duration Of the war
1t is assumed that the state of mind induced
by such experiences may be favorable to some
seeds Of spiritual life. But TO what seeds?
Can II seriously be pretended that this kalei-
doscope OF horrors will strengthen any sense
OF the divine order or the providential guidance
OF the world? Unless we mistake not, there
will issue the grave peril OF general scepticism
regarding the spiritual life.
An omnipotent Deity nay, even moderately
competent Deity, working under difficulties
could hardly have made such terrible mess
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12

DR.. Axtell, Dentist, S15 Union
Trust Bldg. Advt.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12

places Of amusement including NOV
ing picture theaters, on the nDmUer
OF tickets sold.
Would Raise Postal Rates.
Probably the most far reaching
proposal yet suggested. is that the
postal charges will be raised. II has
been proposed that the present one
cent rate for drop and circular let
ters be raised 10 one and a half or
two cents and the regular two cent
rate to three. No tax suggested, 1t
is argued in favor Of this proposal
would reach so many persons and be
objected 10 by so few.
In connection with this postal
plan is another TO tax newspapers
and periodicals in proportion to the
amount of advertising they carry.
Suggestion that cold storage foods
be taxed heavily also is receiving
much discussion. 1t is argued that
this would serve TO bring in revenue
and at the same time discourage the
operation of food spectators
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12

point OF view for all Protestant Churches,
whose central stress upon the right OF private
judgment in spiritual affairs and the salvation
Of separate souls carries a negation of spiritual
solidarity for society in its national and other
groupings. II is this spiritual indvidualsm
that deprives the Churches of any clear mes
sage for such time this.
II Church could really claim with conf
dence to speak for the spiritual duties and as
pirations OF the nation, here would, indeed. be
a great opportunity for quickening and inform
ing the soul OF our people. No doubt this idea
inspires the National Mission mission OF
repentance and of hope" Now 1t is pretty
clear that all OF US have something TO repent
OF and much TO hope for. ~ only our hopes can
be made valid. But the inadequacy of these
general appeals is made manifest by the prob
ings in one Of our clerical contemporaries.
writer asks pointedly What is the Cos
pei OF this Mission Wesleys gospel, he re
minds us. was the assurance of salvation from
the penalties Of eternal death" For the OK
ford Movement. again. there was the gospel
of the Historic Church. the Body OF Christ with
its guaranteed and covenanted sacramento
vehicles of divine grace" At the Malvern Con
vsntion OF Worcester clergy, where the Mis-
sen first took shape. the Bishop enunciated
the message of the Majesty and Mastership
of God"
But II needs little reflection to recognize how
remote any such lofty spiritual generalties are
from the common life OF our people. Can any.
one suppose that this message OF Majesty and
MasterNhip" will touch the heart or stir the
deep latent enthusiasm OF people whose &C
tive energies are utterly absorbed by the un.
precedented strains OF industry, while their
imagination and sympathies are devoted 10 the
concrete issues OF the war? What stirring
spiritual message has the Bishop for these
folk?
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12
By the Rev. Joseph Drysdale,
OF Oxford, England.

T is often harder for the watchers to keep up
their courage and tfeir hopes than for
those engaged in the fray. And yet the in
vincible optimism of man shines through the
darkest night Many are proclaiming in con-
fident paradox that out of this most terrible Of
wars shall come lasting peace
others predict that the orgy Of destruction
will usher in an era of new and universal pros
perity in industry and commerce. But perhaps
the most courageous idealsm is that which
holds that the quaffing of this DEVILS brew will
furnish a quickenng OF spiritual life and "a
deepening OF the sense OF spiritual values.
When people began TO realize the moral
debacle. they were disposed TO charge 1t against
the failure of the Churches. the visible authori-
tative guardians Of the higher life.
II the Churches had been true to Christianity
this terrible thing could never have happened!
Now the Churches have met this implied or
open accusation in various ways. In some
quarters failure OF spiritual earnestness on the
part OF the ministry has been admitted. More
often the falling away from grace has been at
tributed 20 the congregations, whose religious
seriousness has been Slapped by worldliness.
Others again. especially among the digni-
taries OF the Church Of England. admit no fail
human nature The Gospel which they preach
has never attributed any particular value TO the
Sermon on the Mount furnishing maxims
for the actual conduct of life in the world in
which we live nor are the ethics Of States and
Nations 10 be deduced from an rules for in
dividual action
There is indeed. certain logic in this latter
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-12
OPEN BIDS FOR 70 NEW
800 TON SUBMARINES
Contracts Will Probably be Award
cd This Weck-BuiIders Of
fer to Speed Up.

WASHINGTON. April 12.-Con-
tracts for consideration of % 500
ton sea going submarines probably
will be awarded by Sec'y Daniels be-
fore the close of the week. Bids
opened at the navy department We'd
nesday carried proposals for "a yes
sells. Congress has authorized only
IS however. and 10 have already
been assigned to the navy yard at
Portsmouth, n. II.
Some OF Wednesdays offers ex-
ceeding the authorized cost limit of
1880. 900 per ship may be accepted
because they fix the time of con-
struction at several months below
that of other proposals. To cover
the additional cost il would be pos
sible 10 draw on the emergency fund
provided for speeding up construc-
ton or the cost plus percentage of
the profit scheme may be invoked.