Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-09

This is blouse for the busy woman.
1t is made of white butchers linen
with long shoulder seams. Cuffs, high
stock and cravat are made of blue and
white cross-barred silk.
bilities In the renewal of such a
sleeve, got it over here before the
actual Callot gowns were unwrapped
and displayed to the American public.
1t is not easy to define these sleeves
by simply calling them medieval. To
our American minds, they are rem
iniscent of the Abbey drawings. They
might have been worn by the daugh-
tiers of King Lear. And above all,
their beauty catches the eye because
of the cathedral colors in which they
are dyed.
Chinese Panels.
There is another important feature
in the new fashions that no woman
can fail to overlook. These are what
are known in France as flying panels.
They are supposedly adopted from
Chinese dress. They are placed on
the skirt or on the bodice, and there
are extreme gowns In which they
swing from the shoulders.
Jenny uses them in a gown that is
I fashioned after those worn by Chinese
women. 1t has an oddly shaped, trou-
sered skirt of chiffon that is exceeding
~ modest and graceful. Over this
fabric hang straight, flying panels in
| irridescent taffeta that Is weighted
with gold and crystal fringe. The waist
Is loosely girdled about by Chinese
sash, and the long, floating sleeves of
chiffon and crystals are caught in at
the wrists and are transparent.
Jenny, however, Is not the only one
who uses panels In whatever way they
can be accommodated to the human
figure. Doeuillet puts them on one
piece frocks and gathers them together
at the waist under girdle Of some
ornate, glowing fabric.
Nine. Paquin makes an evening
gown thatsis just two panels over a
tight, sheathlike skirt, and the two are
| held in at the waistline by brilliant
| ly colored sash that somewhat initiates
the American hustle silhouette by re-
solving itself into bow and ends at
the side.
Premet, who has turned out such
unusually good gowns this year, as
sembles her flying panels under a
sash of Chinese or japanese embroid-
cry and arranges 1t in a big looped
bow at the side which looks some
thing like hustle that has slipped
an uncomfortable and disagreeable way
that they had of doing in that 1880
period when women wore them In an
uglier form than they are introduced
today.
Need Not Match Skirt.
1t is not necessary to go to any
| trouble to have the panels match the
tight skirt beneath in either color or
material. Lanvin insists that the great
err the difference between the two, the
better the style. She will use hydrangea
blue and black together or golden tan
and deep purple.
Even when these flying panels are
not converted into an entire gown.
there is leading fashion which sees
to it that most of our frocks look as
though they were split up the sides.
to show the tightest skirt that we
could walk In.
Cheruit and many Of her colleagues
have not forsaken the apron gown.
The little accessory which resembles
| nm anrOn hut ia intended for orno
ment and not service, appears on a
sufficient number of new frocks to
proclaim itself still in fashion.
Copyright, 1917 by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate.)