Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-04-20
LACK OF NOVELTY IN PARIS STYLES

table, and the game was over.
And yet, among the masses, after all,
make fashion worth while financially,
the drastic revolution in the silhouette
has just begun to take good effect.
The buyers and reporters saw nothing
strikingly new in the exhibitions of
Paris fashions during the month of
the women all over the continent are
seriously taking into consideration the
acceptance of the hobble skirt.
Again the Hobble Skirt.
There is no use dwelling at this
hour on the fashion of the oval silhou-
cite. You have all read and heard
about it until you are probably weary
of the subject as a theory, but in
tensely interested when it suddenly
appears as necessity for you to &C.
cept or refuse. Well, it is we'll for you
to accept the hobble skirt, for that is
the only name that can really be given
to the prevailing pattern, which is held
in to less than two yards at the hem.
The more debatable question is how
this hObble skirt should be achieved.
Here are some of the ways that France
has done it in her new gowns:
She has cut the skirt in melOn-shaped
cores, but this is not frequent trick.
1t is used in some skirts that belong to
coat skirts strictly for street wear.
She has made the top of the skirt
oh II ryl 11,ilo NV
ranging a kind of slit-pocket effect and
then pulling the fullness of the skirt
tightly around the legs below this out
standing drapery.
Again she plaits the skirt at the
belt and takes the fullneSS from the
plaits as it leaves the knee line, into
wide, stitched hem or a series of
stitched bands that reduce the width
to yard and half at the lower edge.
She has made an entirely plain
skirt and then attached panels of loose
plating at the sides of the waistline
and let them drop to the knee line,
where they are loosely tackled and
swing outward as the wearer walks.
Adopted In Tailored Suits.
Nearly oil of these effects are worked
out in One-piece frocks rather than
in coat suits, because France has put
most Of her originality into the former
and almost ignored the latter. But the
American tailors, quickly Selling the
opportunity for new silhouette, have
made their skirts for street suits and
auop FOR. Snorfc 11coUa rrith tho aytau1-
ed fullness between the hips and
knees. They have almost abandoned
the skirt that fits the figure, and they
have not accepted the old-fashioned
hobble skirt which clings to the figure,
showing every line and curve. No mat
there Is freedom of line and movement
between the waist and knees, which
constitutes a graceful line, and which
is as it should be.
In opposition to these skirts there Is
the new Egyptian skirt, which many
of the designers over here think is the
smartest touch of the season. The
skirt Is really taken from early Egyp-
tian apparel. 1t Is knife-plaited by ma
chine and hangs plumb from waist to
hem. 1t is exceedingly narrow and
made of soft materials. 1t is from
two to four inches longer than the ex-
IRENE skirts Of last winter, and with
the new kind Of coat that is sometimes
attached to it, which Is straight-up-
and-down, primitive affair, the silhou-
cite Is that of an Alexandrian woman
Of high fashion, B. G.
Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa.
per Syndicate)