davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25
A JeweIed Ornansnt
that Cleans UNDER
the Fpont Panel Of
& Blouse Of Red and
White Chiffon

adhesive substance. These pearls, of
which a great many are made in the
United States resemble the French
pearls very closely but are not SO dur
able.
Pearls, whether. genuine or imita-
ton are as fashionable as ever this
season. No other sort of jewelry
seems to be able to displace pearls
from feminine favor. Pearls are not
only becoming, but they lend a spirit
'ual quality, delicacy, a refinemen.
to the face that no colored stone can
give-this is probably the secret of
their continued popularity with the
fair sex; for if anything can give
woman spiritueHe loneliness, she will
have it, no matter what it costs.
Blue Jewelry In Special Favor.
If you look often and long at the
jewelry counters in tie shops these
spring days, you will notice how very
much blue there seems to be in all
the displays. Ornaments just now
form smart and surprising color con-
trasts with fabrics instead of match
ing them. If one wears a citron colored
chiffon blouse, ones does not select
green gold chain to accompany it,
but chain with slender silver links
and beads in some wonderful deep
blue shade. Mustard and olive gowns
are made wonderfully distinctive by
jewelry in special shades of blue, and
since mustard, citron, olive and kim
dred greenish-yellow tones are fash
ionable in costume this season. there
is much deep blue jewelry to give
fashions finishing touch. Who
planned it all? Who arranged that
the manufacturers should achieve
mustard and citron7 fabrics and the
jewellers blue jewelry? All, well, one
must go away back for that-months
and months back, perhaps to the day
some original minded and admired
French actress appeared at the Ritz
in the first mustard gown and neck
lace of lapis -lazuli!
A very beautiful set Of lapis and
pearl jewelry Is pictured, the long
chain, brooch and earrings accom-
panying house frock of wedgewood
blue wolfe embroidered in white The
effect Of this simple frock with the
striking ornaments is quite different
from the effect of the frock I'M
adorned. Without the ornaments ii
would be but simple little house
frock, girlish and sweet for a debu-
tante; with the ornaments, behold, a
costume of sophistication and fascina.
tion-a costume possessed of that de-
sirable quality difference in short
a costume of Individuality! Another
set of jewe1ry lends extra formally
to an already formal afternoon cos.
tune. This is the set of dog-collal
| and bracelet. The bracelet worn out.
side the long sleeve is always rattle,
",dressy'' in suggestion, and a dog.
collar is a distinctly formal type 81
jewelry. The set pictured is of lilac.
gold. mother-of-pearl and sunker
baroque pearls, and bracelet and collar
were selected-were made to order il
| fact-to accompany a spring trousseal
1 frock of orchid tinted faille matine,
] silk. The hat, of pastel orchid sill
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

the girl to whom red is becoming
will wear a deal of it this year, while
it is high in fashions esteem!
The black tulle hat is an airy Moth
ing indeed-just handful of shirred
tulle and a wisp of black chantilly
lace-but ali, the result! A result
achieved. you concede. by, a master
hand? Not at all; this charming and
very chic black hat was fashioned by
a young woman who has knack with
her needle when 1t comes to concoct-
ing millinery. She took lesson from
a professional to learn the art of put
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

of the jet beads and Raillettes, is this
hat which is made of two layers of
fine black silk net. The crown fits down
closely over the head and the hair
shows through most attractive idea
when the hair happens to be coppery
bronze in tone. Tea roses and sprays
of small creamy blossoms surround
the base of the crown and stray over
the transparent brim, and the flowers
are arranged against a band of velvet
ribbon in a wonderful deep yet soft
blue shade. Under the brin, at the
left sue of the hat, is bow of this
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

~ nee in about so often the trans
parent hat of airy material
shirred on wire frame. comes
~ back into fashion and when this
halpy time arrives femininity should
couAat itself very Fortunate; for no
type of, headgear is so charming and
SO becoming. This summer the trans
parent hat Is to have tremendous
vogue; the exclusive spring models of
lace and tulle demonstrate this; and
so beautiful SO altogether Irresistible
are these hats that no special acumen
is needed to foretell the popularity of
the transparent type of headgear.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

A lace hat is truly a picture hat.
1t may lay claim to smartness, but its
primary motif is picturesqueness and
this must be remembered in selecting
the shape. few mushroom shapes
of moderate size are suitable for, the
style, but the lace or tulle chapeau is
always most pleasing in the larger
model; the rather low-crowned, wide
brimmed shape which is called in Eng
land the garden hat and which
makes no pretensions to eccentricity
or to extreme chic in it's lines. The
shepherdess style, with brifn slightly
dropping at back and front is particu-
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

not be worn solely for their own
quick to note the difference, too. Mrs
B. may have on ten thousand dollars
worth of emeralds and black opals
but they will melt subtly into the color
scheme of her black tulle, green Sc
quined evening gown. Mrs c. on the
other hand merits the reproach, cad
TASTE since she wears only five thou
sand dollars worth Of diamonds with
a gray crepe de chine that does not
call for diamonds at all but pearls,
tourmaline or coral
Manufactured Gems Not Undc-.
Fashions Ban.
AS a matter of fact, the supply of
jewels has been much restricted since
the beginning of the war, for some OF
the principal sources of supply. have
been cut off. Since the over running
of Belgium there have been practical
ly no shipments Of precious stones
from Antwerp or from Amsterdam
the leading markets for handsome
stones mined in Brazil. South Africa
and India. In peace times the greater
quantity of synthetic stones-the sort
used in making. low priced ornaments
| came from Austria. And the mer
of France are too busy in the trenches
now to be at work turning out artif-
cial pearls of the beautiful French
kind. America has not yet been able
to produce artificial pearls to match
the French ones. which are made Of
fine glass globules. coated inside with
| a substance known rs "essence
| d'Orient" and developed from the sill
very scales of a fish which inhabit.
French streams. The globule is ther
filled with white wax or parafin. Pinl
pearls are cut from the rosy conch
shell. So-called "indestructible pearls
are made by covering small sphere.
of glass or mother-of-pearl with al
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

ribbon with a long streamer that is
tossed around the neck, beneath the
chin in the manner pictured. This
hat has been duplicated in Jetted net.
red roses and red velvet ribbon for
tall, dark young woman who will wear
it during commencement week at An
napolis along with a frock OF red and
white candy striped taffeta, and a Sec
ond frock of white Georgette and,
dahlia red faille matinee silk. F'or'
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

ting satin cording over the wire at
the brim-edge-a very nice operation
which requires some skill and must
be done in exactly the right way if
oungled effect is to be avoided. The
rest of the hat was easy enough to
fashion. The tulle, shirred to the
brim wire (and the siairring covered
by tho aforementioned satin cording)
was drawn UP in even folds and sewed
to the base of the crown. The hat has
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-25

z : b
Coral and Other Pink Stones
inGreatD Demand Now-Blue
JewelryE Elective With rocks
In New Mustard and Olive
Shades Amber and Topaz
Stunning With Navy Cos
tunes : Jet and Pearls in
Numberless Combinations.
I" STRING of beads, not neces-
sarily expensive, but cunning
ly selected in just the right
~ u shade. will lift an ordinary.
ready-made blouse, to Individuality
and distinction The French cou-
turiers realize well the value of we'll
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

true loves name. Net set afioak
on the water tiny barks made OF the
half-shells of English walnuts, each
carrying a little lighted candle, to
discover the course each ones Ship
Of Fate will take.-if even and
smooth, OF rough and uncertain
Then to test their fortunes In love,
have them dip hands, with eyes
blindfolded, in one OF four plates
-four for a rich match, sugar for a
love mating, corn-meal for a mar
riage Of poverty, and an empty dish
for single blessedness. Some Of the
girls are sent to look into a long
mirror in a dark room, holding a
lighted candle In their hands, In the
hope Of seeing a lover peer over
their shoulders-with some ridicu-
lous results, planned by the hostess.
The evenings games ended. turn
10 the dining.room where a great
papier-mache pumpkin, with a black
cat perched upon It. adorns the CEN
ter OF the feast, and yellow crepe
lpaper and Autumn leaves and chrys-
anthemums make the table a thing
OF artistic beauty. Orangeekins with
? Jack-o'-lantern faces and a lighted
candle put at each plate give a pretty
effect. Nut and cheese sandwiches.
hoat coffee and chocolate, with
. lmarshmallows floating on the top of
, each cupful, apples and nuts, and a
great Halloween cake. decorated
also with the good-luck omen, lie
ChGt Noir, forms the simple supper
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

There are many reasons why Hal
lowe'en will be celebrated this year
with more than the usual zest. Too,
there will be the element OF sadness,
with so many "only ones" and best
particulars" absent at the various can
tonments awaiting the call TO active
military service. The spirits OF all
saints eve will have TO bestlr them
selves to perform all the tasks to
which they will be assigned.
Equally appropriate as the fashion
able colors are the smart materials
displayed in exclusive shops at pres
ent. Notably among these are the
cashmere weaves. velvets and woolen
stuffs which enjoy high favor with
French designers as we'll as our best
American houses. A cashmere Of ex.
/ quisite quality is called Kahsha- AL.
though very fieecy in texture. II Is soft
and light and exceedingly comfortable
for wear on cold days. There is nc
limit to the type OF suit OF costume FOL
which Il may be used. Especially
stunning is one-piece costume n
castor Kahsha, buttoning straight
down the front from collar to hem
Buttons OF castor velvet are employed
In the adjustment and used also OF
the girdle and sleeves. Narrow bands
OF fur edge the collar and cuffs.
One tires OF the word plaid this sea
son. yet 1t IS the refrain Of every fash
ion melody; so there's no escaping II
There are many women who will mo-
wear plaid. but there Is no showing o
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

Crosby Hin . Co.
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
THE is nothing more deiiehtful

THE Is nothing more delightful
than a Halloween party, but It
= must be carefully planned so
that decorations, refreshments. games
etc, combine TO make the entertain
ment as weird as possible. II Il can
be arranged, have all of the guests
wear dominoes. The footing OF a
deep-voiced horn by a small boy
dressed in appropriate costume, an
.nounees the arrival Of guests. At the
door the family dress form may be
stationed TO welcome each newcomer.
Dress it up in ghostly garb with a
gruesome mask for a head. For the
hands, rubber gloves may be stuffed
with sawdust and kept on fee for
hours-a veritable frozen hand"
The hostess should stand by and
cleverly manipulate the ''hand-shak-
ing" The lights are dim and low
and under their uncertain glow the
figure is weird enough to frighten
the stoutest heart.
Let the first game be conversation.
lal Each man selects a partner and
talks with her on an assigned sub
lject, until the hostess rings a gong
then passes on TO another maiden
Here are some Of the topics chosen
DO you believe in luck?
Have you a favorite superstition
What is Il?
Did you ever pass a graveyard a
midnight?
What is the best ghost story yol
ever heard?
What are you most afraid Off
What would you do II you met
ghost?
Next, spread a great sheet acros
the laps Of the guests and have myv
, terious objects passed from hand I
hand-a moist sponge, a large CT
cumber pickle, a chickens claw,
, dry bone a chilled tennis ball. blac
; velvet cat-are all uncanny article
! which balk the sense OF touch
: guess.
T In one corner OF the room arrane
d a witch's caldron. made from an ol
e iron pot set upon a tripod OF fsggot
e over this someone presideS dresss
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

NEW things in frocks in which plaidsl
and checks do not play conspicuous
roles. The newest patterns are ham
died so gracefully that the fashion
chronicler must needs fall into plaid
talk. A delightful frock for an infor-
NAL Halloween party combines plaid
satin and fine French cashmere. AL
very deep border OF the satin Is stitch
ed along the lower edge Of the skirt
and the blouse is Of the same mate
rial Extensions of cashmere on the
right front of the waist form the gir-
die and close at the back. The large
collar, which is rounded at the back
and square in front is also Of the
cashmere, likewise the cuffs. The skirt
is gathered in high effect, closing at the
left side and having pockets which
form a side drapery.
The browns are so stunning that
they are irresistible. The "on' note
i in a charming new one-piece model is
a belt OF self-material lined with fol-
4 iage green satin to correspond with a
i deep green satin collar. The waist Is
i in surplice effect, with long sleeves
i fitted snugly at the wrists and finish
ed with flare cuffs Well laid plaits
\ trim the front and back OF the skirt,
which is attached to the waist In
raised effect
One OF the most beautiful designs
in a particularly good collection Of
new frocks is IN wine red velvet with
4 collar and cuffs OF sand satin. The
vest Is OF gauze, finely tucked and the
skirt IS laid in plaits, back and front.
/ On many Of the red and brown cos
{ tunes quantities of nutria are used,
sharing favor with kolinsky, mole
p beaver, etc.
For young matron-hostesses there
elare lovely simple, soft dresses Of blue
rose and lavender silk voile although
$ all Of the medium shades-maroon
+ elephant, taupe, etc.-are desirable
s with the exception Of a vest OF crep'
S Georgette with picoted edge, a deel
collar of self-material and perhaps |
|, few buttons, these dresses are sparsel.
n trimmed.
), Apparently the designers canno
q lhave enough OF panels, for they ar
I leven introduced upon separate blouse
, with peplum extensions below tn
. waist. Crepe Georgette is associate
\ with satin in the development OF a
ldttEdcLlNe mouci. he sdllu - use
for the panel front Of the peplum. Co
n lar and bands that finish the howin
y sleeves, the blouse proper being q
{ Georgette. For the vest white chiffo
: is employed, surmounted by a cola
OF the same material. One finds IN
/ greatest variety IN high-necked ei
n fects among the separate blouse
IS Where Tubing does not have 10 be tai
r en- in.c consideration things are po
sible that would not be possible othe
n wise and permanent honings an
shapings may be allowed more lai
ltude.
,g Hand-embroidery is introduced
n f-ocks OF all kinds. but nowhere Is
=. rsed more effectively thal upon ch
IL aren's dresses. Quaint little mott
SO are in greatest demand. the quaint
nd the better. Bright red, yellow az
ms green embroidery distinguishes lit
Kirlie's frock OF washable vole, q
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

20" perforations IN back and in fichu
together and tack; bring upper edge of
fchu to double 100" perforations and
cross as illustrated bringing cores
ponding large 20" perforations In fchu
and in front together. Sew net to edge
before adjusting. Arrange waist on
lining, centers and under-arm seams
even; stitch lower edge along cross
line of single small 20" perforations
in lining. Sew collar to neck edge as
notched.
Next, close sleeve seam as notched
Ietensions in long sleeve free; turn
under extension on slot perforations
lap to small "o' perforations. Close
cuff seam as notched, sew to short
sleeve, double 100" perforations even
single small "o' prforation at sleeve
seam. Sew in armhole as notchet
easing any fulness.
To make the skirt, close back sean
from large 20" perforation TO lower
edge, finish edges above for placket
Turn hem at lower edge on small 20
nerforations. gather upper edge be
tween double "TT" perforations. Ad
llust TO position, centers even; stitcl
gathers along double 900" perforationi
IN lining and bringing notch to under
arm seam.
4 Inc hat Is very simple. Just joir
. seetions sections as notched and trim with
Il Mnch time may be saved bv buvin
X crepe paoer stamped with iaol, o'lar
/. ferns and other Halloween ee,,ro,
:, cutting out the figures and nsst,n
them on discs OF cardboard Thss
a. may be attached 20 strean,o-s - -
Y used to trim the skirt. lack o1an.s--
III are also used on the nchu.
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

in witch's costume. As guests ap-
proach, she draws from its depths a
Command of Fate. These prove to
be ''stunt" directions, each ordering
a ghostly pilgrimage Of some kind.
many from cellar TO garret. One,
for example, tells the recipient to
''look in the southeast corner Of the
second-story hall under the rug. +"
Search reveals another slip directing
hunt In the coal-bin, from there a
trip to the front gate, and so on.
OF course as much weirdness as
possible must be planned for and
strong nerves necessary in some Of
the journeys though none must be Of
such a nature as to be really unpleas-
ant. But there should be Just a few
mischievous and blood curdling
boots and means in dark corners a
grip now and then from a clammy
hand or the sudden extinguishing of
the lights In the hallway, Just to add
to the general spookiness OF the occa
sion. At the end is a gift Of some
sort, indicating the recipients for
tune for the coming year-a penny
to bring material wealth, a ball Of
yarn for the aspirant to literary
fame. a ring for the first to be wed
ded. a lovers knot for the nader
!, suspected OF that malady, brie
for the fiedgling lawyer, a tiny van
; ity case for the frivolous maiden
and a ruler for the sorely bose
school-teacher-each accompanied b,
a verse or Jest Of some sort CAREFUL.
Iplanned in advance TO at the individ
ual.
Naturally. Halloween would no
be complete without bobbing for al
Piles and trying the oid-fashione
: charms which we all know, but {
which we never grow tired while ou
hearts keep young. BY this tin
most Of the guests will have pen
trated the various DISCUSSES and the
repair 70 the room reserved for n
o apple ducking and remove the
masks. After the apples are ca
e tured the guests are given shal
d knives so that they might peel the
s. and throw the parings over their le
q shoulders 10 form the .nkisl Of the
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
q eoNrmcfIoN oNpE 55eB

rial and TO the right of the skirt lay
the front OF the waist, front Of the
hat, back OF the hat and collar, all
along the lengthwise fold Of the goods.
In space opposite the front OF the
waist lay the side Of the hat and
piecing for the hchu, large 20" per-
iorauons on a lengthwise thread Of
material. The back and sleeve sec
lions are laid to the right OF the fichu,
Win large 20" perforations on a
iehsthwlse thread OF the goods.
AS foundation for the waist. the
inning must be made first. Take up
iart IN front as perforated, then close
under-arm seam as notched. Close cen.
D lser-front and shoulder seams, then
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
cuIIlNG GUIDE SS6k
lalo ~ 5e ~ lzNIk9lNL

hem the back. Try on TO see II altera-
tions are needed.
Next, plait the front Of the waist
placing at" on corresponding small
20" perforations and tack. Close un
der-arm seam as notched, close shoul
der seam. Turn hem In right back a.
notches. Gather lower edge OF bach
between double "TT" perforations
Plat lower edge OF fichu placing "T
on corresponding small 20" perfora
tions and tack. Arrange on outer from
and back bringing corresponding smal
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
Annla MIMI IaIlv.

To a quart Of strained apple juice al
low three cups Of sugar. Place the
sugar on shallow plates in the oven
to heat. Set the fruit juice over the
FIRE with the crushed leaves and
stalks from bunch Of mint, let cook
for twenty minutes and strain into
clean saucepan. Heat 10 the boil
ing point, add the hot sugar and let
cook until the syrup ''jells." Tint
very delieately with green color paste
and store in jelly glasses. This is a
delicious jelly 10 serve with roast
duck or lamb.
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
GUIDE TO PATTERNS.

The fashions shown on this page
are Pictorial Review designs. Num-
bers and sizes are as follows;
Costume No. 7454. Sizes, IA TO 20
years. Price, 20 cents
Child's Dress No. 7475. Sizes, 3 10
s years. Price, is cents.
Costume No. 7464. Sizes, IA TO 20
years. Price, 20 cents.
Costume No. 7446. Sizes, 1e to 20
years. Price, 20 cents.
Costume No 7460. Sizes. "a to a
inches bust Price. 25 cents.
Ladies' Blouse No. 749S. Sizes, 81
to 4S inches bust Price, 20 cents.
Dress No. 74ss. Sizes. "a to a
Inches bust Price, 20 cents.
Ladies' Masquerade Dress No. $3.50
Sizes, 80 to A inches bust and "a
20 years. Price, Is cents. (Homs
Dressmaker's corner).
H~..l wv,
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

arrangement Is most original and
stamps the design plainly as a
French creation.
Floral effects and Chinese patterns
are in greatest demand for childish
embroideries.
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

handwork appearing about the lower
edge OF the skirt, on the points OF
the deep collar and the cuffs. The
sleeves have puffs between the upper
arm and wrists, which may be OF
self.material or Of batiste. Their ar
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
Home Dressmaker's Corner.
An inexpensive Masquerade Dress for the Hallowe en-
Hostess or Guest.

It makes no difference II one has
never made a masquerade costume be-
fore, II the guides and directions are
carefully followed In the development
Of this design. every detail Is so
clearly outlined that mistakes are un'
necessary. In cutting the costume
take an open width OF the material
and double 1t, right sides facing, as
shown in the cutting guide, for the
piecing OF the skirt. Then fold the re
naming goods as illustrated. Place the
skirt on the lengthwise fold OF mate
Evening journal., 1917-10-20

with Jack o. lanterns made OF crepe
paper. The waist has a fchu OF self
material edged with plated net and
the plain skirt IS gathered under q
Evening journal., 1917-10-20
e<cn1 Hos s<TR1

sash Of self-materiai. In medium size
the dress requires 6A yards S6-inch
material with III yard ssinch lining.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-06-05
CARPET CLEANING

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9sphESs lI2a-ll81 EAST COIIIAIBIA
~ nv dlna a9a Domestic Rugs our sneci,I,v
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ffades SAT- Fsa4a Sn9 are In a position to clean
RUGS WnvAiSMsgi ntvAiSMsiLY WET WASH. eoc
,t,lfoAioBiI, ,E ~ nt,fh30leMi EXON OLD CARPETS
assnsll ..ll nston 24i1; Keystone' East a7l
ihh,ggESSSroN, ,McARIHUR
oRiENs, ~ ~ u SATHARINE S'r.
|Ah RiiasA ~ ,hhuAS OUR SPECIALITY
vSs Ss, WOVEN FROM OLD Clippers
|IL bifffkLlr WET WASH. 6OC .
nI.6s sese-os9t; KEY, RACE 27O5
|IlfI1ofeI4sl ~ FROM OLD CARPETS
''..'entFlt e. tFl RUG Mill