Crossville chronicle. [volume] (Crossville, Tenn.) 1894-current, 1917-04-18

the middle. This house also insists
upon the short coat. IT is made some
what like an Old-fashioned basque,
with short peplum that clings TO
the body, although 1t is cut circular.
Paquin introduced a coat like this last
autumn which was excessively liked
by the women who had turned away
from the long coat, and it is probable
that with its revival for this spring Ii
will gain Roadway before June.
Paquin like Jenny and Fremet, uses
the unusually wide, loose girdle on
all gowns. She does not touch the
empire waiStline, which nearly all the
other houses show in two or three
of the best gowns of their collections,
and she does not go in for the medic
val girdle, which has not been relin-
pushed by every other designer, but
added to the belt over tbs normal
waistline.
Royant's New Coats.
The house of Royant, which is not
as we'll known to the public as 1t
should be, but sufficiently well known
to our buyers to have the fashions
brought to this country every few
months, has sent out an exceptionally
good looking coat to match each one
piece frOck. 1t is a diversion from
the winter top coat which often
turned out to be troublesome prob
lem. although as garment II is we'll
nigh Indispensable.
This new coat is like cape THAT
has little fullness and hangs Imply
against the body. 1t is slnshed at
each side from the hem up to above
the knees. and the sleeves are loose
and bell-shaped. The only trimming
used. no matter what the color of the
coat, is pointed tloriated design of
machine stitching. This stitching is
by no means commonplace; 1t is easily
done in America, but 1t Is very ex-
1t is a loose chainstitch that
must be perfectly done in order to
carry out the sharp, interlacing trt-
lines of the design. Beige, string color
and dark blue are used for these coats, |
and the material is sort of soft broad
cloth. The machine stitchery is in |
black.
Royant has made great name in
Europe for one-piece frOcks, or sport
suits, which can be worn on the street
with dignity. The best gown sent
over from this house is such decided
contrast to everything we have been
wearing. that it was eagerly accepted
by the Americans who saw it.
The skirt is exceedingly narrow, Is
laid in machine knife plaits and hangs
IN q plumb line from waist to ankles.
The bellboy jacket is in straight
line from shoulder to hips, cut on
slim measurements in order to make
,ne look youthful, and it's surface Is
covered with this machine chainstitch
n oyster white. The sleeves are plain,
small and quite long, finished with
narrow band of white satin that flares
over the hand, and row of pearl but
.Ons that keeps it tight at the wrist.
From the bottom Of the jacket comes
sash that goes straight around the
igure at the hips and is Topped over
nto two ends at the back.
DriscoI and the Redingote.
Jenny Is not the only important de-
;igner in Paris WHO put out the red
ngote for the spring. Her house has
lever relinquished the redingote idea,
tut has played upon the one theme In
ways.
30 |
he actual redingote in the form OF a
lin coat with slight curve below
he hips to show that the oval sill
as the French call 1t, Is APP
,rOved.
Driscoll has always had high repu-
alton for coat suits and for whatever
s tailored, and he makes the straight