Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-04-22

against young girls for their amazing
fivolity of mind to do such things,
coupled with the eternal reference to
the dignity of the ages past. is not
founded on knowledge
Copley and his colleagues show
thru their painted canvases that the
highest strata of English society in
their day carried squirrels attached
to 1eweled bracelets and rings, and 1t
was considered quite the proper thing
TO carry to a social function a brilliant
bird in n gilded cage.
Even as late as the PERIOD preceding
the civil war, women worr costumes
that owed their eCcentricIty to the
presence of stuffed animals. Old
sketches taken from that period of
dress show us gowns in which SPUR
rels formed the ornamcnt1tlon. and
others in which there were perfectly
made jet snakes to give an eXtraordi-
nary touch to the costume.
These were the days )f bustlcs, and
one fashion sketch of that period
shows woman IN a silk gown with an
enormous hustle, on the top of which
was placed a squirrel with upturned
tail and nut in its paws. Other
stuffed squirrels We're dotted about
the drapery over a stiff crinolne pet
| ticoat, and in the enormous cciffure
was another with its tail upcurled.
The gown with the snakes has
boa constructor wrapped around each
arm, another to edge the decolletage,
| and n third to form the knot on top
| of the head, its own head raised in a
| threatening attitude. with tongue
projecting.
Now, mind you, these were actual
gowns, sketched from life ana con-
sidered attractive in their day
This season is ushered in without
the eccentricities of either of those
generations or even the half decale
that has just slipped by. One may
call the narrow skirt an eccentricity,
but in its modified form it is very at
tractive, and it saves material. which
is the reason that Paris invented IT.
1t is rather amusing that the women
who have organized for a national de
fense and who urge economy In buy
ing clothes, call especial attention to
the pegtop or melon skirt as gar
ment to he frowned upon. when :his
very garment was invented by Paris
to save material and thereby lower
the price that French woman has 10
pay for her skirt
Naturally, the French designers did
not charge the Americans any less for
pegtop skirt than a f1ll one, nor
will the American dressmakers AXE
any difference in prices because or
the scarcity of material used, but the
thousands upon thousands of women
who buy material for their own gowns
will see the advantage "a dropping
the extra full skirt and adopting the
slim line of the new silhouette.
Tho Straight Silhouette.
Already the exclusive dressmakers
are insisting that the pegtop skirt, or
the drapery that Is pulled out at the
hips, is mediocre. The first fashion,
they insist, calls for a straight silhou-
ette from shoulder to heels without
the break given by the pannier ERECT
at the end of the corset.
What is known as the barrel skirt.
pure and simple has few followers,
but the skirt with the kangaroo eX-
tension at each side is admittedly the
popular success of the hour.
Against this skirt is the one called
Egyptian, which has been described
by all the fashion writer's until the
women know most that there Is TO
know about it. 1t is the straight,
knife pleated skirt dropped from the
waist or from a shallow yoke aud is
supposed to have been worn by the
fashionable Alexandrians at the time
of That's and Aphrodite.
There Is so much that is Egyptian
in the spring clothes that it should
not surprise the onlooker to see this
straight, pleated skirt win out above
all others before June arrives. Bulloz,
for instance, has met with singular
Success in this country thru gown
which he calls Aphrodite and which
was originally made for Mile. Chenal
when she sang the title role In the
10 at N
Rulloz has changed the gown some
what. but everyone who was in Paris
last autumn remembers II. 1t is made
of black chiffon In three long. Egyp-
tian tunics that hang Imply against