davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
Warm Cream Color as BACKGROUND for En- broideries

sion that we are almost as much frlnged
the first American famiies-the lroquoi', Wv
Cherokees and the Seminoles.
Lanvin has khaki suit, coat and sk''
which has no other trimming but It's OWL
fringes. j,
There are one-piece frocks that are fr'ns"
from waist to knees in some deft, subtle way
There are belts of suede with colored appNS',,
designs that have Indian fringes front ~.
back. There are Chinese and Persian frlns,
that drop from the side of frocks and nli',
the sleeves. There are silken panels WIN, :,
make up evening skirts and which are a''.
down by great fringes Of gold beads that Jos
and clank against the ankles.
The sketch shows a warm, cream cashl'.'
theatre frock which is embroidered at the " :,
tom of the skirt with colored worsteds III " :.
blue, brown and deep rose. The bodice Is no
in corselet effect - the moyen-age silnoue'
which has returned to high favor. Inc ~.
hanging sleeves are of cream-colored ch'hs J,
and the belt, which is placed below the
line, is of old blue velvet with deep frins, =.
the material hanging in front The epa1a =.
are of blue velvet and SO is the hem u
skirt. -
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

It was the same during the French Revolu-
ton, although we are apt TO forget that our
sturdy and courageous ancestors both in
Europe and America lived their powerful lives
in the kind of cold that now makes US scream
aloud if we have to endure it.
America has taken up the idea Of the waist
coat with a good deal more enthusiasm than
was expected after its cold reception last win
ter. She sees in it new way Of giving color
and warmth TO coat suit, and possibly she
finds it lure to the American woman TO keep
to her American uniform instead Of going into
the French method of buying frocks and top
coats.
We all admit there is something the matter
with the white wash shirtwaist. The shops
offer it by the thousands. but there is feeling
against it that is not to be denied, and if one
wears wash blouse the colorful waistcoat
hides it. The kind that has been invented for
sport suits or for morning coat suits Of rough
material is Of suede.
The sketch shows one Of Lincoln green suede.
1t is made exactly like Russian blouse ex-
cept that there are no sleeves. All its edges
are bound with Lincoln green silk, and the
buttons are leather. II is worn without coat
by many of the smart women for golf at the
autumn country resorts.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
The Algerian Skirt More Like
Trousers Than Ever

1t Is extraordinary how the Oriental skirt
has held its own Here It Is with US again,
and if one wanted to be historical, it would
be necessary to go back to the early days Of
Paul Poiret, then Nine. Cheruit and then Cabot
and write of their efforts to make this tucked
in, Oriental garment the fashion.
Jenny has chung to it with tenacity worthy
of better fashion. She has not varied the
rather ugly line of the skirt movement which
she adopted She gathers the skirt to the
waistline, turns the fulness at the bottom
up to a tight, narrow lining and then allows
It to swing free from the legs as the wearer
walks.
This season she has produced a novelty in
the form Of skirt that is more truly Oriental
than the other and in this she is side by side
with half dozen of the great French designers
who have shown this skirt without any apology
for its decided Orientalism.
The distinctive feature in which this new
skirt differs from the old one, both being taken
from the Orient, Is that It has two openings
for the feet and Is closed in the centre. Such
a trick being adopted by smart society gives
the eccentric designers a chance to do daring
and remarkable things
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

hands again. this time giving 1t variety and
comfort and urging 1t as bit Of economy.
One might say that there are two kinds Of
waistcoats in high fashion this winter; one has
sleeves, and one has not. Naturally, the critic
will at once say that waistcoat that has
sleeves is blouse. So it is, but it Is cut on
the waistcoat idea. 1t fastens down the front,
it has an odd, narrow little girde across the
front which is fastened with a buckle or but
ton, and its sleeves are loose, put into large
armholes and finished with tight, turnover
cuffs at the wrist.
The other type Of waistcoat belongs to the
costumery of men during the French Revolu
ton. Sometimes it is made of thick, warm
velveteen again of fabric that looks like the
fustian Of other centuries. 1t is not in brocade
or embroidered satin, but its first cousins, the
odd little blouses that are worn under coat
suits, have adopted these finer fabrics.
In reality, this long, wide, comfortable waist
coat is another piece of fashion that has come
out Of the Paris houses because of the scarcity
of coal in France. Women are compelled to
wear all the clothing they can put on their
bodies to keep warm in the house as well as
ths street
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

what has been created, one expects such . de-
veopment Of this particular fashion at any
moment
There is no use arguing against this new
type Of Oriental skirt for evening wear. 1t
will prevail without doubt among those who
like what Is new and what is graceful, and
there is no denying the exquisite grace Of this
type Of Oriental skirt, and the good setting It
gives to a slim ankle and well-shaped foot
If there only could be law against women
with broad, thick ankles and broad feet wear
ing this type of evening skirt, we would be
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

. better dressed nation, but - yet no censor
Of fashions has arisen.
This development Of new skirt Is not tho
only interesting feature Of fashions in this
particular garment A certain set Of designers
is endeavoring, despite the cry for economy in
material, to establish a skirt that touches the
ankles for the street and tho toes for the
evening.
A few Of tho best American designers are
back Of this movement in an alliance with the
French. There are such leaders as Callot, how
ever, who make no compromise, but cut the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
TERE and there throughout the decades
n there comes fashion for white or

TERE and there throughout the decades
there comes fashion for white or
cream colored winter clothes. There
has never been much enthusiastic welcome
given to white broadcloth suits which dress
makers exploit in the cold weather fashions
now and then but white satin as an afternoon
and evening gown, especially when trimmed
with dark fur, has never lost its hold on a GER
tain segment Of we'll dressed women.
One must admit that the dead porcelain
white is cold and that it really belongs under
the trees or on the porch under blazing sun.
Then it presents the contrast that is needed
for beauty.
Knowing all these things, the American
woman was rather disturbed when she heard
from Paris that white clothes were to be
launched by Doucet, Lanvin and few others
who cater to an exceedingly conservative pub
lie. However, this feeling Of chill was quickly
dispelled upon the appearance of the first Of
these light gowns.
To begin with, they are not white. They are
in a warm cream tone that is delectable. II is
like old ivory. 1t might have lain away in
some dusty corner and taken to itself a queer
shade that nature gives through age. 1t has
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

II Asst winter we had the waistcoats OF
Louis XVI and Of Robespierre. One
was ornate and glorious In its antique
brocade and jeweled pocket buttons; the other
was workmanlike and economical In its woollen
fabric, its straight row Of bone buttons and its
narrow belt across the front
France thought the fashion good. America
looked at 1t with interest and then passed by
on the other side. Paris made another attempt
to induce America TO accept the fashion. Last
March she added colorful waistcoats that re-
sembled sleeveless jumpers to her sport suits
Of Jersey cloth. A few women took up the idea
because it represented something new for the
country club, the tennis benches and the coun-
try porches.
Heavy white satin skirts were topped OF by
slim little vests Of old blue velvet fastened with
silver buttons and worn over white organdy
blouses but attractive as the fashion was, 1t
still hung fire. No one had any criticism to
make against 1t, but few women thought OF 1t
when buying new clothes.
But Paris, when she starts out upon thing,
6 determined to make of it as much Of a sue
ca-7 as art and ingenuity can demand; so this
sutuna ~ threw the waistcoat upon our
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
A Skirt Which
Has One Trouser-Leg

There is one gown which has an opening
for the left foot, but not for the right one.
There Is another that has two pear-shaped
openings for the feet directly in front, with
the outer edges of the hem sewed together,
allowing the fitness to cling to the outside
Of the ankles.
The only eccentric trick that remains for
some French designer to do is to put the open
ing for the right foot at the back and the open
ing for the left foot at the front Considering
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
First Aid to Shopper Is
knowledge of Gowns

The knowledge Of gowns-their silhouettes,
their fabrics their various movements-wlll De
first aid during this month to those who are
seeking not to be injured by buying what they
don't want. 1t is not necessary to purchase
a gown merely because 1t strikes your fancy;
it is very good thing to see everything that
can be arranged for your inspection and then,
out of all Of them, choose the one which you
like the best and which you think is the least
apt to be worn by all your neighbors If you
don't mind this duplication on every side, then
buy the gown which suits you, regardless OF
how often it will appear.
But the main thing to remember Is that you
must not be disappointed II you're not indvtd-
ual. There ars certain gowns that stand out
during this month as symbols Of popularity.
The first one that comes to mind Is Buloz
creation Of a one-piece frock, made In deep
brown velours with slight cascade effect
down the side Of a moderately narrow skirt
The distinguishing feature Is a wide chain
made from gold mesh, which from around tho
neck drops TO the waist and seems to support
an immense square Of this gold mesh which
looks for all the world like womans shop
ping bag spread out across the abdomen and
attached to the belt.
Another is medieval gown Of deep purple
velvet, with long angel sleeves and sweep
ing skirt that goes to the floor.
Another is a coat suit in which the jacket
has deep point in front and ripping hustle
at the back.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
Why Warm Clothes Are
Fashionable in Paris

The cold winter and the coal famine havs
been strongly reflected in the new autumn
fashions for France and America. When our
people ask why this thick velour, these deep
pile woolens, the worsted embroideries and the
continuation of the material to the chin and
ears should come upon US so suddenly after
decade of diapnanous fabrics. the answer Is
"cold minus COAL"
Paris has not reflected the war Itself 70
strongly in her sartorial efforts as she has
reflected her suffering of last winter. Thes
nc,. gowns are in the way Of preparedness
I. may be that we will suffer from lack Of
coal ourselves before next spring, if the alarm
lists speak truly, and therefore we will wei
come the clothes that were born from the ex.
perience of Paris in pain.
The new velour needs a chapter In ITSELF
The master weaver, Rodier, has presented q
new kind that is as soft as it is thick, and
the world Of weavers treats this accomplish.
ment as one of great Importance to the world
Of fabrics
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
Some Beautiful Soft
Thick Fabrics

There are also several varieties Of the hnd
of material known as Bolivia cloth. which Is
not woven as we'll in America az II might BE-
There Is a soft, thick quality Of velvetesa
In black, navy blue and beige which Is Offered
for an unusual number Of one-piece froen
made with tailored severity Velveteen nev9
looks as warm as velour de laine or duvetyn.
and the reason it may be chosen for . ono
piece winter frock is that the cold Of our VIII
tiers is well established 1t Is not an accitn'
and, therefore, we have TO prepare for pss
that can be worn beneath great topcoana'w
or wadded cloth.
The woollen gown is at its best to-day u
the clemency of climate which lasts througno's
a great part of the United States until the %"
of January these soft woollen gowns, under iu
capes, serve very well for the street
The richness of their dyes, the suppleness.
Of their weave, the touch of color given oy Wv
vivid worsted embroidery make an exceedinsty exceeding!
becoming combination for any woman SHH
looks her best in such clothes during our GU.
autumn days. She gives color to the landscsp~
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

hens of their skirts to the shoetops for the
street and an irch lower for the evening.
Callot has lost none of her audacity In un-
covering the body and yet it was in her salons
that saw premiere vendeuse clinch her
hands and, with eyes flashing, exclaim at the
improperly Of T. woman who wanted to order
an evening gown during the first month OF the
war.
The answer to this from Cabot would be that
II Americans want to wear extraordinarily
decolete gowns cut half way to the knees, she
can continue to give them what they want.
She has nothing to do with their morals, their
spirit or their susceptibilites. Truly, she
seems to have chung to these new frocks OF
hers with that understanding, for some OF them
are contemptuous Of all the proprieties.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
DINNER
GOWN
FOR
A BRIDE

Gold and smoke
blue tissue, with
necklace, head
dress and arm
piec % Of blue
bead. Panel front
Of white pan n Q
velvet embroid-
ered In Chinese
colors. The flow.
ing sleeves arc Of
thread lace
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
Audacity That Oversteps tho
Bounds of Decency

As an example of what this house will DO,
there Is a demure black satin gown that Is
wrapped into definite wastline and has bar
barrie strappings Of jet that hang across the
bust, drop below the waist and end In hugo
plaque with fringe. The front OF this gown
shows the leg half way to the knee. The back
of Il observes the call for half low frock
BY having band Of gold galloon across the
shoulder blades at the head Of a single piece
Of black silk tulle that has no lining TO the
very bend Of the waistline This Is tricking
propriety with vengeance! The woman who
wears the frock will have to cut her corsets
down to the waistline at the back in order to
accommodate this veil Of illusion.
Another piece Of bravado is the way Cabot
gives sleeves to her gowns. They are long
sleeves-oh, yes, quite covering the arms as
well as the back-but they're made of single
piece Of tulle and are attached to nothing more
or less than a moderately high girdle which
does not reach tho arms at the sides or back
by several inches.
She has one gown with oyster white sleeves
and back Of floating tulle made from q piece
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28
THE HAT WASHINGTON DID NOT
WEAR

TIL. I. tho new Colonial type Of hat worn In
the street Il IL made Of cardinal velvet, with
q frl and eoekade of white grosSrain nooon.
"HE merry o-round Of fashion continues.
Each Of the great centres where
Il women's apparel is sold reports an
extremity Of business that has caused the work
people loss Of sleep and threatened the heads
of the departments with nervous collapse.
Naturally. women object to having their
Gowns copied, and there is a hubbub in the
apparel world concerning the well established
fact that the gown which Is imported at
cost of 5000 can be bought for 500 as copy
at one of the ready-to-wear shops.
There is no remedy for this condition. The
woman who insists upon wearing models that
are exhibited during this month Of October
must face the fact that she Is apt to be re-
peated through the streets or at parties as
though she were gazing into maze Of mirrors.
There are experts who say that the remedy
for this condition lies in the hands Of the
American designers. They say that If the
latter will create hundreds Of gowns which are
as agreeable and satisfying to women as the
French models there will be chance for
individual dressing.
This sounds well, but there are great diff
culties In the way Of establishing 1t as re-
liable theory. An American designer who has
made a remarkable reputation for her clothes
insists that she does not design more than
dozen models during season and that she
homes to sell thousand gowns from these
models. There you are.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

Of tulle drapery that is banded for twew
inches with apple green tulle, and across tie
front of the wrapped satin bodice is bias
band of brilliant green crystal such as the
queens wear in court costume
Opposed to these evening gowns she pro
duces the robe Of the stained-glass saints which
has been described. 1t is OF swinging velvet
in cathedral colors, and covers up the entire
body from neck to heels with the exception Of
a few inches at the neck in front.
It is evident that Paris went through most
unusually cold winter during the early part Of
1917. The influx Of thick woollen gowns, the
absence of thin blouses, the new cache-nez COL
lar. the sleeves that cover the knuckles, are all
part and parcel of the discomfort Of her ct-
zens in a cold that was unequalled and coal
famine that was unprecedented.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

Tbi, |, the new Colonial type Of hat worn In
the street Il |, made Of cardinal velvet. with
. friI and eoekade of white grossrain ribbon.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-28

models. There you are.
The Little River news., 1917-04-11
OGDEN NE NS.

Ogden, April -(SpeciaD Miss Marguerite Budd was the guest of Miss lola Turner at Ashdown Saturday and Sunday.
 Dr. and Mrs. Wiley Smith and dau, ghter Miss Theresa, and Miss Addie Hudgins and Fred Hut of Fouke were the guests of Dr. and Mrs. I. N Hut, | Saturday.
 Mrs. ". J. Mcdowell and daughters, Misses Rosa and Lois and Miss Carol Davis spent Saturday in Wilton. F. NJ. VanHook was in Ashdown | Monday. Miss Addie Crouch entertained a number of her friends Saturday even Ing Music and Fanles were the i;musr!l"nts ct tie evening after which delightful refreshments of ice cream and cake Wera served.
 Mr. and Mrs. Ehsha Pickett and chill dred Of Millwood spent Sunday here.
 R. M. Holmes was in TeXarkana Sunday.
 A party of Ogden young people spent Sunday in Paraloma, where they visit ed Rev. A. N Youngblood A splendid time was reported by all. Those who accompanied the party were: Misses Addie and Madie Crouch, Ethel and Bertha Smithson and Martha Leather Oscar Taylor, Jim Welch, Emmett Smithson, Tue Oliver and Herbert Griffin.
 Mrs. Addie Allison and children spent Sunday in Millwood.
 Gordon Owens of Texarkana spent Saturday and Sunday with Neal Vel win.
 J, E. Welch left Monday for Little Rock.
The Little River news., 1917-04-11
OGDEN HOLDS ELECTION

The town election held in Ogden last Tuesday by which the people chose an entire new set of officials should be a day from which the con- tinued progress of this little town will date. We look forward to some early Improvement of our street and drainage system and feel sure that the new town council will promptly pass such ordinances as will do away with several open hog ponds and mud holes which now exist in the town of Ogden. These open ponds are not only un- slightly but are menace to the public health and for the general good of the town should be done away with before warm weather comes
 The following citizens were chosen for the various offices:
 pr. l. N. Hut, Mayor. John Smith. son, Recorder. J.. E. Parker, Roy Budd, Ed Wood, F. A. Velvin and John Welch, Aldermen
The Little River news., 1917-04-11
IN FULL SWING AGAIN
Fighting Between Lens and Arras as
 Fierce as Any of the War.

With the British Armies in France, via London, April 9.-The war on the western front which has been moving mere rapidly in the last five weeks, broke ito full swing today. Widen ing tho attack that they have been directing against the retTeuting Ger mans in the sector of the Somme, the British struck still further north, and in a series of assault on a broad front, with Arras more or less the pivotal point, they drove the Germans from scores of important positions, pene- trated far into tine German lines and inflicted heavy casualties.
 A visit to corps headquarters this , afternoon indicated that the prisoners taken in the last 12 hours will exceed 5000. The barbed wire cages or compounds built to receive prisoners that were expected to be taken were overcrowded long before noon, al- though the principal attack did not be- gin until shortly after dawn.
 Yimy Ridge Captured.
 The heaviest fighting today devel- oped along line few miles south- east of Arras in northely direction to the neighborhood of Lens, but the ac- tions extended far in the directioV of St. Quentin. In the territory captur- ed today was the famous Vimy ridge, which had been fought over time and time c<ain ever since the war was 10 months old The French had fought desperately and yaliantly in an en- deavor to wrest this vantage ground from the Germans, the battles costing both belligerents untold casualties. Back of the northern end of Nimy ridge lie the principal coal fields of France, which still are in German 1 hands
 All winter long cannons have held . | footing on the ridge. with the Germans looking down on them. All the fight ing today was against dominating posi- tions on high ground some of which had been held by the Germans for two years, and was lavishly hemmed with wide belts of some of the tughest and longest pronged barbed wire which has been seen in the war.
The Little River news., 1917-04-11
OAK HILL NEWS
adVt

Oak Hill, April 9, Special l)-The Presbyterian church at Oak Hill has been freshly painted.
 The young people enjoyed party at Mir. Burt's Saturday night.
 Miss Ruth Patterson and Miss Willie Bell Martin spent Sunday with friends and relatipes at Oak Hill.
 Rev. Jack Bearden from Hicks filled the pulpit at Oak Hill Sunday at eleven.
 Tuesday May 8, has been set apart as a day to clean off the cemetery preparing for the usual Decoration day observed at Oak Hill, the second Sunday in May.
 Frank Patterson's horse broke loose Saturday night and gave the boys quite chase being caught at Arden about Sunday noon.
 Mir Hinton bored a new well at his place Saturday, making three wells on his farm. MT. Hinton has one of the incest farm homes in this vicinity.