davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

| orately embroidered, that there was
need of this work
We find that, in England, tapes
try embroidery came into vogue with
the introduction in the 18th century
of tapestries. and. like the tapes
tries, these were expressive of classi-
cal subjects. Later. the Bible stor-
les begun 10 creep in, the old Tesla
ment stories IF Adam and Eve
| Queen Esther and Ahasuerus. being
/ especially popular. Then, we find
in the embroideries, as the body OF
the people became more socially
conscious. scenes from the life about
! them. At first these were largely
court ladies and gentlemen. but
home scenes were also used. We
find accurate pictures of the gar
dens. In the samplers and embroid-
cred tapestries, the fountain is al
ways present One example Mr.
Hush cites is a 18th century piece in
which are "Gilly flowers, marigolds
lilies and daffodils, with such strange
flowers as hyacinth, narcissus, also
the red damaske, velvet, and double
Province rose. double and single
white rose, the fair, sweet seeming
woodbine, double and single, the
violet. nothing behind the rose"
Most interesting is the accuracy
with which the dress Of the differ
ent periods is mirrored forth The
author cites, as proof of their ac-
curacy that in one embroidered
picture there appears a youth in the
dress Of Charles I, while the older
men are attired in the costume of
James I. This was actually true of
the time. Costumes were worn for
life, and so it would be correct for
the elders to show this distinction.
The ruff was still evident, although
the youth wore the high boots of
the Charles l period.
Il feel" said Miss Mccormick.
that this part Of the United States
is most fitted TO bring back the love
and appreciation of these old pieces
and that the same interest which has
always been greater in the east may
be stimulated. 1t will always be a
business where the most of the Gus
tom will have TO he gained through
private patronage; but, when enough
women have been interested. and
we can find enough women who
have properly learned the work OF
reproducing these old patterns, it
will be easier to get young girls to
begin to learn it, for this work
should be learned early. I employ
none who have not learned it well
somewhere else. 1t is a constant
joy to me-"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20
Tapestry Embroidery Revived

from Europe, and to have them
copied is even more costly. The
crewel, or wool which must be used
! is almost impossible to get now. and
even the silk, which is cheaper,
which must be used for the French
and italian designs. is difficult to
obtain, so that my work has been
somewhat interrupted: but 1 feel
sure that. when the intense activity
in the many lines into which wom-
ems energies are forced just now has
subsidized. there is going to be a re-
and these avenues of expression viii
be more appreciated"
There are. of course, limitations
for the market OF these old styles.
The colonial house is the most ap-
propriate for the embroidered chair
covers, bed covers, stool covers, and
other furnishings of this kind. Yet
so beautiful are they, and so unusual
do they make the atmosphere of the
home where these coverings are
used, that one only needs to step in
TO a home furnished thus to feel
what such decoration will do for it.
Among the pieces which Miss
Mccormick, for the simple love of
these beautiful specimens of a past
art. has collected, are some rare de
signs. A rosewood fire screen. hav-
ing a background OF black. with the
figure of a young girl worked in col
ors, a dog at her feet and the shrub
berry of an English garden environ
ing, is most elegant. Above the
mantel is a large embroidered pic
ture, copied from an old picture by
Sir Edwin Landseer. The cOloring
of the robes and cloaks is rich and
beautiful; the expression of the
faces wonderfully full of feeling. II
is, of course, one of the old tapestry
embroidery pictures, so much in
vogue when tapestry first came to be
known in England. There are in
the collection some remarkably rare
old Chippendale chairs, with seats
covered with exquisite embroidery;
few old stools, and one i'm bead
work An old bell-pull is richly en-
broidered in beads; and there are
some interesting specimens Of the
raised worsted and silk work for
pillows and footstools.
Even a brief study Of the subject
of embroidered tapestries is intense
ly interesting. There are some
few helpful books upon the subject
One by Maurice B. Hush. Sam
piers and Embroideries," is helpful
TO anyone wishing an exhaustive
study Of the subject The study Of
these interesting specimens Of early
AIT, samplers and tapestry embroid-
cry, furnishes one with a good work
ing social history of the 10th, 18th
and 18th centuries, i'm France, Italy
and England In the days of the
two Louis, XIV and XVI, we find
the ladies of the court even embroid-
ering on horseback, riding in car
riages, everywhere they could pos
sibly carry on their work. An eX-
PLANTATION of this is given in the
fact that the dress of the men. as
well as of the women, was so elab-
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

! Not because they have nothing
else TO do. are women today turning
toward those old forms OF EXPIRES
sion found in the various kinds of
needlework of ye olden time. In a
small shop opened in the front par
Tor of a Chicago woman's house is a
shop which is gay with the once
popular form of decoration known
as crewel work and tapestry en-
brOidery. Every article of the
household furnishings is represent
ed there, in these beautiful old speci-
mems of needlework Of the early
and middle part of the last century.
the origins of which may be traced
back to the 18th century
There are bed covers, bed hang
ings, tableclotts, chair covers, book
covers. purses. tapestry pictures,
fire screens, pillow covers and
scarfs. Many are quaint, barking
back to the early stitches-the tent
stitch, cross stitch, Gobelin stitch,
Hungary stitch, the Italian and the
Spanish stitch. These patterns have
been lovingly sought for all over the
country, north, south, east and west.
II have always been devoted TO
Mccormick recently. IF L cannot
buy the piece, / get permission to
copy the stitch and design. 1 want
if / can. 10 get specimens of every
kind known for my collection.
have five women from other coun-
tries at work now, copying these de-
signs and originating beautiful pat
terms. I find they are perfectly de-
lighted to do the work, for il is like
a touch of the old country to them.
do not try TO teach raw recruits,
but. if 1 can educate the American
public to the beauty of these old
patterns. I feel that / shall be able
to establish a practical outlet for
some women who still really love the
work of the needle, but who do not
know how to make it practical.
Every woman down deep in her
heart. 1 believe. loves to do these
honey things. They are the nat
ural outlet for the expression of her
ideas of beauty, of form and color.
1t has always been natural for wom-
ell 10 90 II. W z hHON AAltN oDdAllt
Italy. Greece, France, England and
America have rich legacies of this
work, and I am seeking specimens
everywhere. I have some fine old
samplers, which are helpful to one
learning the old stitches; that is.
those early samplers on which the
young women put the various stitch
es which they had learned. If a
complete chronological collection
could be got together of these, there
would be no trouble in possessing all
the old stitches and designs.
THE beadwork is interesting. 1
have. as you see, some pictures here
made with beads, and there is real
character expressed in the quaint
old figures and faces. The hand
bags are always more elaborate, be-
cause they made up part of the
snowy wardrobe of one of the early
court ladies. At present, it is much
more expensive securing these old
relics, because few are coming over
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20
Blue Foulards and Organdy Pretty

1 blouses are worn red ties. and with
I the red blouses, blue ties.
FOulard Combined With Organdy
or GeOrgette.N
Every smartly- dressed woman
realizes that If she is 10 be up to
date she must have a dress Of fou-
lard in her wardrobe this summer.
| Blue foulard with large white polka
dots is the kind one sees most Of.
sometimes the order is reversed and
! blue dots standing out on a white
background appear. They are just
as smart and even a little newer
/ than the white dots on the blue.
Foulard is often combined with
georgette or organdy. In the sketch
it is combined with white georgette
vest and collar. of a very modish
bolero dress of navy blue dotted fou-
lard. The pretty bolero style has
come back 10 us, and this is one of
the many attractive models in which
II is seen. Some OF the new sum-
mer suits have short bolero coats
trimmed around the edge with some
form Of embroidery or stitching. A
very smart model was made Of blue
twill and foulard.
Foulard is put to other uses be-
sides the fashioning of dresses. 1t
makes very effective trimming on
suits; for instance on collar. cuffs
and pockets. White-dotted blue
foulard com bines well with navy or
sand colored serge or twill.
Speaking of the ordinations Of
materials, one of the very newest
effects is that of using organdy and
net together. And speaking of or
CANDY. il is TO be very popular this
summer for entire dresses and also
for trimming white net summer
frock worn over a pink Organdy
slip and trimmed with bands of pale
pink organdy on the skirt was re-
Gently seen. A very cool and re-
freshing frock for summer is looked.
Silk Braid a Fashionable Trimming.
The use of fiat woven silk braid as
trimming is becoming more and
more favored. Braid about half an
inch in width is applied on coats and
skirts in straight rows one above the
other and at even distances apart.
Sometimes the braid covers an en-
tire coat, sleeves and ali.
Black braid on navy blue, and
dark blue on tan are the ombina-
tions most frequently seen. To &C
company a dark-blue coat, white
flannel skirts trimmed with rows Of
dark blue braid are sometimes used.
Capes Make Their Appearance.
Coats with capes. and dresses with
capes, have been making their ap-
pearance lately. The capes are not
the short variety that were used
some seasons ago. They are very
long, as long as the coat to which it
is attached in most cases, and many
of them are attached only at the
back of a coat or dress. While be
ing very smart, these capes have a
practical value in that they give
extra warmth. In a very smart dress
which ombineG dark-blue satin and
serge, a cape of serge was attached
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20
Don't Wall Work
By Ada Patterson.

/ Don't wall: work. Whenever you
feel like mourning. do more work.
Have you ever thought that waste
emotion clogs the wheels of prog
ress?
Fine spirits never stop to grieve.
! The devastating, desolating event
/ that seems to bring all interest in
/ life to a full stop, does not arrest
/ their course. The death of a dear
one, or the heavier blow Of deep dis
! appointment in a living friend.
weighs upon their hearts, but not
upon their efforts. It is characteristic
of the strong and great of earth that.
| whatever befalls them. they "go on.
! There's a world of healing and com
| fort just in going on. Try it.
A dog with an ear torn, or a new
limp gained in fight. may sit on his
( launches and howl at the stars; but
we have passed the dog on the road
of development. Ours the straight.
( onward path TO the end-the final
rest and reward.
WEAKNESS? Yes. Discoura cement?
! Yes. But 60 on, and they will pass
To the worker comes the reaction.
the low spirits Of fatigue. ITO all
hard workers come black moments"
said the philosopher. But they are
mere temporary eclipses. Before and
afterwards the sun shines.
You are careful Of your money.
BY hard. concentrated. wearying er-
fort you have earned It, You try TO
expend il wisely, to conserve it. TO
safely and proftably invest It. But
what Of your emotion? What of the
leak Of your energy through mourn
full thoughts?
I know a gifted but moody writer
who has lost the royalties of sex eral
novels because she moped about
transient failures. She has wasted
more time in chatting at slight de-
feats than would have won her
glorious victory
Stopping TO worry about what lies
behind US in the road is the worst
extravaganza. Turn every wall into
work Every thought is a coin
Burnish il into brightness with hope
and work
While part Of a ha- assed world
watched the rest lighting TO the
death. a phrase passed into general
use "Watchful waiting" was ad-
vised IS a safe and sane and right
course. The advice was good. Let
us adopt another phrase, Hopeful
working"
Each Of us has the power OF some
kind Of useful work. Our Jobs
We're born with us. Ours the task TO
do them as we'll as we can. as long
we can
None of us has one moment to
spare for the blues. II IS as foolish
TO yield ourselves 10 them as is a
fortress 10 surrender 10 an attacking
army ct sight
We are all towns that may he be-
sieged at any hour by an attacking
army OF blues. Let Us rOut IL by hard
and cheerful labor Let us adopt the
slogan, Hopeful working.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

SO popular that even bIouses are be
ing made in vest effect now
Hosiery and gloves embroidered
with stars and stripes are among the
latest novelties seen, showing the
extent To which patriotism may be
taken There are also small silk
handkerchief edged with little
flags. and paraauis edged with rib
bon hearing the stars and stripes.
Even a parasol OF red white and
blue bunting has been devised. with
the coiors used alternately in each
section.
Costumes consisting of red or
blue wool Jersey MILDLY blouses are
worn with skirts OF white wash satin
or sports silk The blouses are dec
grated with embroidered emblems
on the sleeves. on the ends of col
lars or in front With the blue
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

at the shoulders. The lining OF
apricot-cOlored silk formed an eff
fective background for the dark
dress.
Much of this satin and serge COM
binatiOn is being used again this
spring, and frocks Of this kind are
especially practical for shopping
and street wear. With one of the
fur capes no other wrap is necessary
at this time of the year.
The linen frock for summer
means as much as the satin-and-
serge frock does for spring. A tall
ored coat dress of white linen but
toned down the front and brighten
ed by a colored linen collar. a belt
and large pockets of the same. is
seen in the sketch. Stitching is the
tailored trimming used to accent
uate the distinctive lines of this
model.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20
I 'atnotisn1 Expressed in New Clothes;

NV YORK. May 19.-The pa
riChc Spirit Of nag-decked New
York begins 10 make itself felt in
many Of the small accessories that
make a wOrnan's costume. and often
in the costume itself With flags 10
the right and flags TO the left. il is
not to 10 wondered at that the spirit
Of the times is being reflected in our
clothes.
The sed. white and blue cOlors are
"a Evidence everywhere. New vests
ahc collars OF white silk or satin are
edged with narrow red, white and
blue ribbon, or rows OF red and blue
ribbon are stitched around the edges
OF white collars. The vests are the
very latest addition 10 coats, and are
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

There is a strange fascination
about Chinese things; the country
and race remain to a great extent a
goth century world mystery. Our
modes for the year are, it is said, to
be largely a la Chinois, and the
Paris creators have gone TO the
Chinese empire for inspiration alike
in color and in line. Mandarin hats
and coOlie chapeaux are already in
our midst, and very charming they
are. being il must be understood,
highly developed from the original
inspiration. Dresses and coats are
also to be of Chinese character. So
far it is not proposed TO introduce
pigtailsl
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-05-20

Consul-Gen. L. J. Keena at Nalpa-
raise. Chile, reports that there is an
opportunity in that country for the
Introduction OF American depart
n.nA aAorr-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04
You Cannot Expect
To Have a Clear
Complexion
BY Constantly Massaging It With
So-caIed Skin Foods or Creams,
Often Rancid or Germy,
Substitute Cuticura
For One Week

And make Cluun Soap and Oin,.
mcnt yourctcy day tu.otpcpan'0us
They cannot possibly iuurc The pores.
Contrast the purity, fragrance. cHm'ot
and convenience oi these sIpcroreamy
omoIIicnts with "bcaliy idds S. COM
mon. urcsomc and expensive. a bath
with CuiUra Soap and hot water on
rising and retiring thoroughly clclnscs
and stimulates sluggish pores, giving
the complexion a fresh healthy glow
II signs Of pimples, rcdncss or rough.
ness be present smear them with the
Ointment and let Il remain five minutes
before bathing Nothing purer swcetcr
or more effective for your skin and hair
than Cuticura no matter how much you
pay for it.
For Free Samples by Return Mail
address post card: "Cuticura, Dept. 22,
Boston." Sold everywhere.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

given by all-star casts. and followed
by a set OF Elizabethan dances and
chOruses.
The st. Louis orchestra is scheduled
for one appearance here May 9, al
Convention hall under the direction
Of its noted conductor, Max Zach.
Seats now on sale at Quaker drug
store.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

q suppose a great many ask for in
formation who have no idea Of taking
a train?"
Yes" said the weary official.
when some people spy a free bureau
OF information there's strong
temptation to stock up"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

zat.on. giving three grand concerts
each season and last year Conductor
Fischer and his chorus gave the
music for the Shakespearean pageant
in Forest park, by which the St. Louis
Pageant Drama association and the
city OF st. Louis celo lobrated the Shakes
pearean tercentenary. A series Of
performances OF LAS You Like It. were
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04
Fischer Organizes Choruses.

Frederick Fischer, assistant conduc-
ton OF the st. Louis symphony o-ches-
ira. is the conductor OF one OF the
foremost choral organizations in the
middle west, the ST. Louis Pageant
Choral society. This chorus was or
ganized by Fischer to take part in the
great pageant and masque OF ST.
Louis, In Forest park. st. Louis. May.
1914. and became a prominent factor
In the tremendous success OF that IA
nous undertaking. Since then the
chorus has become q separate organi-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

Members Of the Crochet club, to-
eether with their husbads, rendered
Mrs r. ". Paddock a pleasant sur
prise Wednesday evening in celebra-
t.on Of her birthday Everything re-
guisite TO the occasion. including the
birthday cake, surmounted by candles
vas prepared by the guests and the
evening hours We're spent in music
and dancing, followed by refresh
rrerfs
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

low. who was formerly attorney foi
the Tidal on company, Is now en-
gagged iu the OH and legal business.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

At the meeting # the Drama league
yesterday morning in the library. Mrs.
Harriet Wardell and Mrs. WOodville
Smith were elected delegates and Mrs.
George Ford and Mrs Merl ' Cad
man alternates 20 the third district
federation ~ clubs. which meets next
week at Colnnsville.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

federation II clubs. which meets next
week at Collinsyille.
Bethany chapter Westminster
guild OF First Presbyterian church will
meet Friday afternoon At o'clock at
tho church for an hours session. The
soclety's anniversary w.d he deserved
with special meeting. May IS.
Mrs. william y. Sin and Mrs.
George a. Hollow will be hostesses at
this Ifteru1ous meeting OF Trinity
Episcopal guild.
Mrs. II. J. Brickner was hostess to
the matrons of the Auction-FIve Hun
dred club yesterday afternoon at her
home, 506 North Denver avenue.
The Woman's Christian Temper
ance union viii meet Friday. follow
ing the afternoon meeting at the
tabernacle.
Mr.. and Mrs. ". c. Steger have as
a guest at their home in Irving Place
Miss Alice Brogan OF Lake Charles
Wis
De Luxe club will dance In another
va ALN l'Ha - 80 u.s. AlltN tl4444H a. lAlN
Knights Of Columbus hall.
Mrs T. II. short Will entertain
eroup Of the friends Of her young son
Edward with a party this evening.
Mr. and Mrs John $. Garyie are
spending a few days in Kansas city.
Menus for a Day
(Tulsa Morning World).
BREAKFAST
Oranges
Cereal With Thin Cream
Puffy Omelet
Rice Muffins Coffee
LUNCHEON
Cheese Pudding String-Bean Salad
Gingerbread
Made With Whole-W Flour
Tea
DINNER
Roast RIB Of Beef Yorkshire Pudding
Buttered Asparagus
Irish Moss Blanc Mango With Fruit
Jelly Coffee
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

Mr. and Mrs j. Arthur Hun Mr.
and Mrs DcW4,t Hull and MIR. Wiley
T. Stewart returned az th, f.it ~ the
week from Pittsburgh Pa where they
attended the funeral OF Mr stewart
Mrs uu. senior. viii return TO tho
east toward tho end ~ Mly going -
Moyy.llC. y y. the SUMMER home oi
tho family. where Mr. and Mrs Hun
Will celebrate their tweuty-flfth we'd
ding anniversary with a house party
~ their relatives and close friencs.
Miss Jane Alexander, eldest daugh-
ter Of Mr and Mrs John II. Alexander.
became the bride OF Mr. Leo De Rush
Ludlow lu simple tho impressive
wedding ceremony which occurred
Thursday morning az 9 o'clock IN the
home of tine brides parents at 1920
South Boston avenue. Rev j. W. a bel,
pastor Of First Methodist church was
officiating minister and the marriage
service was read before small gath
eriug of relatives and close friends
The bride was Handsomely attired I'm
"a dark h.ue serge coat dress. with
which "a black hat was worn Mr.. and
Mrs. Ludlow left Immediately after
the wedding Tor WaIkesha, Wis. %
visit Mr. Lullows h0We-f0lk They
have planned bridal trip which may
extend over six weeks or two months
after which they viii return 70 Tulsa
20 take mp their residence Mr.. Lud-
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

Mrs H. J. Brickner was hostess {
the matrons Of the Auction-FI Hun
dred club yesterday afternoon at hel
home, 300 North Denver avenue.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-04

Mrs. william y Sill and Mrs
George o. Hollow will De hostesses at
this afternoon meeting OF Trinity
LpiscoIal guiIl.