The Cook County news-herald. [volume] (Grand Marais, Cook County, Minn.) 1909-current, 1917-09-19

Here is an evening gown on early
:lcmieh lines. The material is heavy
| crepe satin, with grdIe of cloth of
gold. The bodice and train are en-
oroidered in Flemish design. The lin
| ing Of the train is gold-broWn velvet.
going to be narrow, and it is quite
as well that dresSmakers and women
accept this fact without cavil.
| Once before in the history of clothes
there was tight skirt which was said
to have been caused by the Civil war
in America. It became the fashion
after Appomattox and remained in
fashion for a decade and half after
ward. It was also caused by the ne
':essity for economy in material, as the
tour years war had nearly exhausted
he commodities of this country.
That skirt was called the tie-back.
The front and sides were pulled
,cross the figure so that the wearer
'ould barely step, and rubber bands
ere put across the back below the
,Histline, to draw the material up
TO q series of little puffs. This was
much Of hustle as was permitted.
Persistence Is Amazing.
The persistence Of this fashion has
;:rn an amazing thing to those who
! uIy clothes. Its origin was in the
| :shioEable way Of walking called the
'recia2 bend, which was the absurd
PREDECESSOR Of the equally absurd de-
,U,ante SLOUGH.
| In the days Of the tie-bac]1 skirt,
title girls would secure safety pins
" indirect means, and pull the fullness
# their skirts back and up, thus Eav-
ing little fluff Of their own below the
waist. They were always caught at
his by their mothers and nurses, be-
cause the safety pins tore the material
and made gaping holes.
| Again, in this day of elimination of
waste through the necessities Of war,
with it's fullness arranged at the back
in series of slight flares.
It is not possible to say with any
degree of certainty whether this skirt
will be widely accepted when the au-
tumn comes. Reporting, and not
prophecy, is the duty of those who try
10 give the news of dress as it comes
out week after week.
The American designer as well as
the French one, has gone in for this
upward tilt Of material at the end OF
he spine and it may be that the later
| fnchi1rS will accont,1ato if
| Whatever may be the fullness
though, at any special spot on the
skirt, those who are regarding the
question Of new clothes must remem.
jcr that the hem will be almost as
narrow as it was in the days Of the
hobble skirt.
There is a marked tendency toward
The sheath skirt in several of the new
costumes. The material sinks into
ne figure after it leaves the waist
aud the hem provides only a stepping
width.
The shortness Of the skirt for street
wear is necessary. In the spring
here was a decided tendency t.
iengthen skirts, and many conserva
live women adopted the fashion with
enthusiasm, but if a skirt is to be ex
:eedingly narrow, it cannot be long
1t would be too utterly inconvenien
FOR women who are plunged into :
series of activities.
Jackets Of TWO Kinds.
It has already been announced tina
:wo kinds of jackets will prevail il
che autumn. One is hip-length ane
one is +4em-length. The latter i:
called polonaise and the former i!
calico q jacket. -
! The revival Of the polonaise il