davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
S1eeved Stole and
Lar6e Barpel rIuf E. tn Chinchira.

Nov, fox furs are one of the staples
in the market. They are dyed to some
beautifully becoming tints; and the
woman of today does not want nor
does she expect to wear the same furs
without aHeration-for four or
more seasons as she used to in the
days when we bought Alaska seals in
London market.
"Of course, the natural fox pelts
are the most favored. The natural
blue, white, brown and black foxes
lead the style; and they lead in price,
too. Then the cross foxes, and next
the natural reds of long fur, good top,
hair, and the deep cherry red tint.
The dyed foxes are merely the reds
that are of poor natural coloring. The
dyed blue and gray will be much
worn; but the new rose tanpe tint
will, in my opinion, lead all the rest;
for it is one that every woman can
wear to excellent advantage Blonde
and brunette alike will look well in
this; added to which it is one of the
high novelties of the coming season.
Muffs, it would seem, are to be very
much as before. Those small round.
melon, barrel. and fat sack shapes be-
ing all shown. The touch of novelty
which a new season inevitably de-
mands is being made this year by
means of ordinations of furs, and
the arrangement of the trimming
scheme,
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
@le>1ur75 G2reZ5e
49, 1/2zRzwowe@5ezz26

the more rigid the rules, and the more
simple the requirements. A plain
frock, preferably on straight lines or
of the Peter Thompson variety-sailor
blouse and killed skirt-of navy blue
serge; or a. combination of shirtwaist
and skirt, are preferred; with just one
little silk or net frock to wear to the
school dances. No jewelry whatso-
ever is permitted, save a watch and
a pair of collar pins. Rings, brace
lets, brooches, chains, lavallieres, and
the like, are all expressly forbidden,
and if struggled into school, are
promptly expressed back to the par
ents when discovered.
Slides and combs are to be pre-
ferred to hair ribbons, as being more
in keeping with the idea of strict and
Added, too. is the sanitary considera-
ton; for just a dip into hot or even
boiling water for a moment or two
will entirely sterilize the comb or
slide; while the same cannot be said
for the ribbon.
The mode and manner Of wearing
the hair is just as important for the
Signorina-the little miss-as for her
elders. The shape of the head, the
contour of the features, the height
and carriage, are all taken into con-
sideration. In order that the scalp
and the length of the hair be fully
ventilated always, and free circula-
ton of air assured, the fad OF fashion
of closely and tightly braiding the
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

long time, the market met the demand
for this beautiful and becoming pelt
with all sorts of substitutes and sub
terfuges. The so-called Hudson seal
really reliable stores invariably add
the true name of this fur: dyed musk
rat-never truly filled the place of the
Alaska pelt, Not only did it very
soon lose both 1ustre and finish, but
the countless horde of lesser imita-
lions made from rabbit skins which
had undergone shearing and other
manipulations, crowded the market,
and at a price that not only was far
too high for their service and quality
but which for those same reasons
served to bring disrepute on the bet
ter classes of pelts dyed to the oldtime
seaIskin colorings.
Sealskin For The Ultras
With the coming of the new season
just few of the Fashionable furriers
are showing the genuine Alaska seal
skin once more. Not in any quantity
yet, however. In fact, SO small As the
stock that has found its way to mar
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

a European buyer for European trade
who paid this top price at thati
The woman of fashion, who pays
much attention to her costume and
can afford to pay for exclusive pelts
and designs wherein to wear them will
have to forego any further purchases
in chinchi11a for some time to come.
The South Am erican republics of Chile
and Peru have placed an embargo on
the catching Of those tiny little ami
mals-they are really of the rat fam
ily-for the next five years, beginning
with September of this year. Not that
chinchilla was ever in danger of be-
coming too popular. The supply was
never overlarge; and since it is only
the first quality that gives any sort of
satisfactory wear-a poor chinchilla
soon declares itself by looking tired
and raged-chinchilla has al
ways meant an outlay that could
scarcely be justified by an inference of
investment
Since the Alaska sealskins did not
present themselves in any commercial
quantity on the market for quite a
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
Clever Manipulations In Many Pelts =
American Skins Have Their Inning
Alaska Seal for the Few Fox.

observance in the country of lower
attitudes; while the higher attitudes
of mountain resorts the far more in
formal 'tsweater''-the French term
them Guernseys, and the British say
Jerseys; both appellations being bor-
rowed from the Channel Islands, the
French choosing the name of the is
land where their language is spoken
exclusively, and the British where one
hears a trif1e more of English than
one does of French-taking the place
of furs..
Revivals And Newcomers.
But with the coming of autumn days
furs take their place once more as a
legitimate part of the outdoor toilette.
TO usher in the: new season the fur
riers have made radical departure
from the fashions that were in the
forefront of things last winter. What
the fur trade speaks of as small
furs"-which will include multitude
of novel designs in neck and shoulder
pieces-naturally present themselves
first And not only are the shapes
new and novel; but there are some
newcomers in the fur field, or rather
one might say revivals or resurrec-
lions of the vogue of some furs that
have been absent from the roll call
of fashion for SO long that they are
almost newcomers now.
Industry In American Pelts.
Usually one thinks of furs as COM
ing from wild and savage places,
where the foot of man but seldom
treads and where the advantages of
civilization are but little known. With
the closing in of the far spaces, with
the bringing together the ends of the
earth which civilization has accom-
plished, the fur trapper is one of the
few figures of romance still left to us.
But none the less, romance notwith-
standing, it must be confessed that
the march of civilization has multi
piled rather than decreased the supply
of fur pelts. Mink, mole, beaver,
marten, squirrel, muskrat, and count
less other pe1tries are all caught at
their best close in and near around
the haunts of civilization. Imperial
Russian sables have multiplied enor-
mously since the opening of the Trans
Siberian Railroad. The extensions of
railroads in South America have
brought bigger shipments of chin
|chilla land nutria. While as for the
development of our great Northwest,
it is fact of record that at the last
great raw fur sale in st. Louis Amer
lean ermine fetched a higher price
than did the Russian pelt; and it was
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

ket. and at the same time, so choice,
that is it being reserved for the fav-
ored few. Those of us who may have
sealskin garme nts held over from for
mer' days may possibly have them re-
dyed to the new sealskin shade; and
SO keep in step with the front ranks
of fashion. But, for the most part,
this season will see the genuine seal
used mostly in combination with other
furS.
A charming example is pictured on
this page, in which American ermine
oh, no. that is not one of those imi-
tation pelts. It is the veritable ermine,
and it is caught in Alaska and in sew
eraI of the Northwest provinces of
Canada-is cleverly blended with
Alaska sea1slxin. The muf is largely
of the seal. while that part of the
fetching little cape on which most
wear will come is fashioned of this
excellent wearing Alaska peltry.
In fact. the hall mark of fashion
for the fur season of this year of
grace would seem to be the use of
this national fur-for the Alaska seal
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
Fox Holds Fashionable.


best service throughout.
Fox Holds Fashionable.
Speaking with an oldtime furrier
the other day in New York he called
attention to some facts that proved
highly interesting. mot so very many
years ago." he said, '1 used to spend
money to advertise that, except for
silver foxes, I did not make up, nor
did I recommend my customers to
purchase fox furs; believing that they
did not give good service for the
amount of money invested In them.
Those were the days when Alaska
sealskin was the most fashionable fur
we had; and many furriers took
beaver and even otter and had it dyed
in the sealskin shades, made them up
into coats of the fashionable cut for
the season. and sold them to some of
their best clients.
"Those were the days, too, when in
order to get Alaska seal pe1ts Ameri-
can buyers had to go to London, pay
the expenses of the Atlantic journey.
purchase the pe1ts there. ship them
to New York, pay a duty on them
coming in at the Custom House, and
then sell them to their. customers at
a price necessarily far in excess of
what the European wearer had to pay.
And that for a pelt grown and caught
in our own eountryi
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

tied up with? Let a shipping of pink
or green string fall into a tub OF white
clothes on washdays and distressing
blotches and streaks of pink or green
appear on all the white clothes put to
soak. Save bits of colored string as
packages come into the house and
when you have faded frock or blouse
to 1aunder, soak one of your bits of
string, in an approximate color, in
cold water until you have dye that
matches the article to be washed, and
rinse the article in the solution. "A
piece of the wet string might ruin the
blouse, but the diluted color will
freshen it up wonderfully.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

green, lettuce green, reseda green. and
few others that have not been on the
color card for 10, these many years,
were handed forth by the clerk
And still no sage green! Hot an6
fustered, the clerk intimated, that
perhaps the Woman did not quite
know herself just what shade of green
she really did want; and this in tone
none too polite.
1--WE shown you every shade of
green there is; and you say that every
one of them is wrong. Do you know
the right shade yourself when you
see it?'' asked the clerk.
Thoroughly aroused by this time.
the Woman made answer:
Eyes, I do. If you can show me
some velvet just one shade greener
than yourself I'll take every inch of
it that you have, and not stop ask the
price eitheri"
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

HzUE OF THIS DAY and genera
ton can hardly believe it pos
sib1e that Nine. Bernhardt-
~ the great Sarah, the divine
Sarah. the queen of tragedy and classic
drama-held high vogue throughout
Europe as a comedienne. And yet.
it Is in just that meter and milieu
that this scribe recalls one of her
most fetching representations, that of
Eyprienne in Sardou's comedy of "Di-
yorcons."
Now this scribe lays no claim to be
considered or consulted as the oldest
.inhabitant; far from it. But the deep
impression made by Bernhardtln this
role comes back whenever furs are,
under discussion. The gay Cyprienne.
has a meeting with her adorer. 1t is.
winter, and the pretty little lady is
bundled up in furs. How beautiful
you are in your furs!" .breathes the
adorer. "You are more beautiful in
your furs than in@any other costume
you weari" To which the gay and
frivolous Cyprienne replies: '.I'll tell
you q secret. Every woman is! and
doesr They are the most becoming
things we have; and we all know i'll"
+ And the tickle mind of tickle woman
has not changed one iota from that
day to thisl ~
Fashions In The Tropics. Z
Not for a minute do we believe that
It Is this fondness for furs as a fas-
cinating accessory, universally becom-
ings that Ied-ito their adoption for,
summer time wear, as was the 1frivo-
lous fad recently. Like SO many other
fashions. that one came to US from
France. But there it really started
in those winter colonies along the
Cote 'd'Azur-the Coast of Azure Skies
the French Riviera, where the sun
shines holly for few hours a day in
full sight of the snowclad mountains;
but once the meridian is past, g. cold
w1t1d blows off the snowcaps, and
makes ftrs not only, a charming &C.
cess6ry to the outdoor toilette, but
stern necessity as well.
Thence the fashionab1es at our own
American Rivieras along the Florida
and California Coasts borrowed the
fashion with tropical clothes and
tropical climate; and with the spring
drift northward for the tropical
clothes the furs came too. However,
at tbs best summer resorts on both
the Atlantic and Pacific Coasts-to
say nothing of the inland places
sensible women never followed the
fad In truth, it was one more ac-
knowledged in the breach than in the
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
ON ELBOWS

~ HE GLOBE TROTTER was
All home again, back in "her ain
countree," after many wander
ings that took her into the far
corners Of the earth, among strange
peoples. stranger. customs. and the
strangest manners that the world af-
fords. After the usual travelogue had
been recited, some one asked what
struck the G. T. as newest and strang-
est in her own home town, that same
being New York.
With spirit and with emphasis the
G. T. replied: Elbows, and elbows,
and still more elbowsl! Everywhere
go I find elbows sticking out. When
l went away a few years ago not a
woman of our acquaintance would
even think of standing, like a Billings
gate fishwife, with hands on hips and
arms akimbo. Now, whenever and
wherever she stands she cannot seem
to. hold herself up without sticking
out her elbows-I suppose to balance
herself.
''And the way those same sharp
pointed elbows dig into the man or
woman who Is so unlucky as to have
to pass her way is-wel1 it is nothing
short of a public nuisance. To me, it
seems the quintessence of ill-breeding.
Why. it is only a little while ago that
any woman who stood in such attitude
was not supposed to be well man
nered, or to know what good form
meant. One felt that if an acuuaint-
ance did so-we do not expect our
friends to offend in such respect
some sort of apology was necessary,
some explanation to gloss over the
lapse, the public lapse. from good
manners.
"Oh. know you will say: Other
times, other manners but, Just the
same, let those addicted to the fish,
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

ing effect even the smallest curl has
on the whole appearance.
Z For full dress occasions-for even
the school girl has her quota of these
the young girl is not supposed to
wear either flowers or feathers in the
hair. Those are the prerogatives of
their elders, like satin gowns and
jewels. For the demoiselle-the jeune
friIfe-the plain simplicity of ribbon
filets, little velvet bands. is supposed
to be sufficient to meet the demands
of both fashion and good taste.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01
SHADES Of GREEN .
.HE WOMAN WHO KNOWS
what she wants stopped at the

~HE WOMAN WHO KNOWS
~ what she wants stopped at the
CA velvet counter in one of the
O large stores the other day, and
asked to see the sample book. The
clerk, a young man and seemingly a
recent arrival on these shores, from
the Emerald Isle, or Whereabouts, an
nounced that there was none.
''Then let me see some sage green
velvet" asked the Woman.
Box after box was lifted down from
the shelves, and every shade and tint
of green velvet disp1ayed-always save
and except sage green. In vain did
the Woman explain that it was a
grayish green, a sort of silvery green,
that she wanted. Emerald green, Nile
green, apple green, hunters green,
bottle green, olive green, sea green,
bronze green, moss green, grass green,
myrtle green, Empire green. peacock
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

to wear silken frocks or indeed, any
but the simplest and most Inexpensive
of dresses, hats and wraps, until she
is ready to be presented, to make her
debut in society as a full grown, full
fedged young lady. Until that delect-
able time shall arrive, all the powers
that be are in a conspiracy to make
and to keep her as simple and as
girlish as possible.
The fashionable boarding schools,
those where the cost of an eight
months year for a single girl would
provide more than one family with a
comfortable living for twice that
period, are rigid in their rules re-
garding both clothes and hairdress-
ing. The more exclusive the school
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

wife pose just study themselves in a
full length mirror, see themselves as
others see them, and they will agree
with me that even the sweetest and
most refined girl or woman looks pos
itMely tough" in such attitude; and
they will remember that their grand
mothers used to say that consideration
for the comfort of others is the in
variable and inevitable hall mark and
sign manual of the gentlswoman.
"And in the Billingsgate pose it is
difficult, if not impossible, to pass for
a gentlewoman."
COLORING FADED FROCKS WITH
STRING.
IN Id YOU EVER know anything
- to run" worse than the color in
ordinary string such as packages are
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

"HILDREN GROW up all too
@ y quickly nowadays" complained
" hthe young looking mother. cit
~ seems only the day before yes
terday that we celebrated sisters first
hair ribbon; and today she wants to
wear grown-up styles and satin
frock for school,"
But, just the same, there is evident
a very strong tendency on the part
of educators and fashion authorities
alike to keep that same young lady in
the junior or the Intern ediate stage
as long as possible. In this, as in
other matters of dress and appearance,
they do much better lin France, and
in England, too. There the young miss
is not expected to turn up her hair,
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

Hair Slides OF Dull Gold, Graduated
Sizes.
hair and coiling it either in coronet
or in the oldtime Cadogan style is.
abandoned.
If the forehead be. broad and low,
the front hair is plainly and simply
brushed back to be caught on the
crown of head with some one or an
other of the new slide fasteners; while
the back hair is. left to hang free.
The smallest tendency Of the hair to
curl should be encouraged: for every
artist knows full we'll what soften
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

~ ne OF THIS DAY and genera
ton can hardly believe it pos
AAH sib1e that Nine. Bernhardt-
.N the great Sarah. the divine
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-11-01

skin is the one that fetches the high
est price, wears the longest and gives
best service throughout.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-10-11
ARMY ORDERS

Pvt. Patrick J. Carr, Machine GU
Co., 1st Infantry. is transferred t
Battery A, 1st Field Artillery, Soho
field Barracks.
Capt. Hugh b. Keen. 22nd Infantry
is detailed as member Of the genera
court martial appointed to meet a.
Schofield Barracks, paragraph =, Spe
cial Orders, No. 1919. these headQuar
tiers, current series, vice Capt. Thomas
H. Lowe, 32nd Infantry, relieved.
Pvt. Fred NJ. Hames, Co. 3, 1st In
fantry, is transferred to Co. z, 3rd
Telegraph Battalion, signal corps, and
will proceed to Fort Shafter, II. T
Pvt. Ohio Louden. Headquarters Co.,
9Th Field Artillery, is transferred to
Headquarters Co, 1st Field Artillery,
Schoheld Barracks.
The leave of absence granted Capt.
William C. Russell. Infantry, D. o. L.,
by paragraph l, Special Orders, No.
III, these headquarters, current ser
les, is revoked.
Under the provisions III General Or
ders, No. 90, war department, 1917,
Cpl. Charles F. Bum, C.. A. c., 18th
Co, Oahu, is transferred to the school
school for bakers and
cooks, and will proceed to Fort Shat
ter.
Pvt. First Glass Joseph Mangini.
ordnance department, Hawaiian ord
nance depot, will be discharged from
the army by his commanding officer,
Ivy order of the secretary of war, for
the convenience of the government, to
enable him to accept appointment as
saddler at the Hawaiian ordnance de-
pot.
Leave of absence for one month on
certificate of disability. is
granted Capt. George l.. Converse, Jr,
Cavalry, ID. o. l..
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-10-11
BE PRETTY! turn
GRAY HAIR DARK
Try Grandmother's Old Favor
tie Recipe of Sage Tea
and Sulphur

Almost everyone knows that Sage
Tea and Sulphur, properly compound
cd, brings back the natural color and
lustre to the hair when faded, streaked
or gray. Years ago the only way to
get this mixture was to make it at
home, which is mussy and trouble
some. Nowadays, by asking at any
drug store for "Wyeth's Sage and Sui
phur Compound" you will get large
bottle of this famous old recipe, i'm
proved by the addition of other ingre-
dents, for about so cents.
Don't stay gray! Try it. No one
can possibly tell that you darkened
your hair. as it does it so naturally
and evenly. You dampen a sponge or
soft brush with it md draw this
through your hair, taking one small
strand at time; by morning the gray
hair disappears, and after another ap-
plication or two, your hair becomes
beautifully dark. glossy and attractive
Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Com
pound is a delightful toilet requisite
for those who desire dark hair and a
youthful appearance. 1t is not intend
ed for the cure, mitigation or proven
ton of dtsease.-AdV.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-10-11
MARRIED.

CABRAL-MACAULTON-In Honolulu
October 10, 1871, William S. Cabral
and Miss Mary MaCAulton, Rev
Samuel X. kamaiopili, assistant pas
tor of Kaumakapili church, official
ing; witnesses-Albert MacAultor
and Mrs. LOria j. Sanborn.
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES Honolu
Iu, October 6, 1917, John J. k.-lguire
and Miss Ida Blackburn, Rev. Faith.
er Victorinus Claesen Of the Catholic
Cathedral, officiating; witnesses
V. V. Newell and Georgina Newell.
VENTURA-BUSH-In Waiuea, Kauai
October 4, 1917, John Ventura and
Miss Rosie Bush, both of Honolulu,
Rev. X. Shiraishi officiating; wit
nesses-William j. Silva and NJ.
Kahui.
CREM ER-MIRANDER- IN Honolulu.
October ), 1917, Adolph Cremer and
Miss May Mirander, Rev. Father
Victorinus Claesen of the Roman
Catholic Cathedral officiating; wit
neSses-Robert E. Jenkin and Lucy
Jenkin.
CROPP.WEBER-ln Lihue, Kauai, OC-
tober 3, 1917, Ernest Cropp and Miss
Lulu Weber, Rev. John NJ. Lydgate,
pastor of the Lihue Foreign Church,
officiating; witnesses-Frank CraW
ford and Silburn PurviS.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-10-11
TROOP

A regular meeting of the troop was
held on Friday night, October 5. There
were present 10 scouts, one official
and one visitor.
There was al election of officers,
the following scouts being chosen:
Dudley Pratt and Alatau Wilder, pa
troll leaders; Wilson Jacobson and
Herbert Foster, assistant patrol lead
ers. The patrols were also rear
ranged.
Alex Cornelison was sworn in as a
tenderfoot and assigned to Ulili pa
troll.
Scout Master Potter urged the
scouts to practise modifying in order
to be prepared for the contest. A
team will be chosen at the next meet
ing
The next meeting will be held Fri
day night, October II.
RICHARD SIMONTON,
Scribe