El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1917-04-21

I have seen estimates which make It
two or three hundred feet higher.
Another remarkable survey was made
OF a part OF the region by Dr.. Alfred
Brooks and D. L. Reyburn, in 1909. and
they were the first men 10 set their
feet upon the slopes Of the mountain
I have talked with Dr. Brooks about
his experiences. He made recon
naissance survey Of the western and
northwestern face of the group and
was the first 70 lay out a plan for at
tempting the ascent OF the mountain
DR.. Brooks is one OF the best authori
ties on Alaska, and his geography Of
Alaska published by the government
is by far the best authority as to all
matters regarding tile territory. He
estimates the height OF Mount Mckin-
ley at 10000 feet. of Mount Forake r
at 1900 feet, Mount St Elias at 1904
feet and Mount Logan at 1850 feet
Was First to Make Attempt.
And now as to the ascent OF the
mountain The first man 10 attempt y
was Jaires Wic6ersham. who is now
the dele@ate TO congress from Alaska
! judge Nickershsm has told me how
he caught sight OF the mountain IRON
far 10 the Yukon when he first came
TO Alaska. and determined to do whac
he could to climb 70 its top. It was n
MAY. Ia05. after holding his first term
Of court at Fairbanks. that he set out
with four men and two mules
He went down the Tauana IN a
steamer and assembled TO the head OF
navigation on the Kantishna- He LETT
the river and struck across the coun-
try 20 the base of the mountain, but
he tried 10 ascend by the Peters glacier.
and was stopped by the enormous ice
covered cliffs OF the north peak. He
came back saying that only a balloon
or a flying machine could ever take
one to the top. He spent week IN
al emptinE the climb. and II was only
when his provisions gave out that he
returned 20 F. irbankS.
Climbed by DIR. Cook. Claim
The next attempt to reach the ron
was made by Or. Cook. who claimed
that he stood on the peak. and gave
an illustrated lecture at Washington
telling how he got there This. Ike
his north polar expedition. was afte--
ward shown up as fraud
The first real ascent of Mount No
Hinley was made in February. 1910 br
q party OF mining prospectors who
were backed by three saloon keepers
Of Fairbanks. The proSpectors were
Thomas Lloyd Charles McGonogill.
William Taylor. Peter Anderson and
Bob Horne, and also hy E. g Davidson.
a surveyor. one of the saloon keepers
was William AfcPhee. Big Bill Nc
Phee~ whom I met in Fairbanks. He
ana the Two others each put up $500
apiece for the journey. and that sum
sufficed for the needs of the party. 1
had a talk in a club at Fairbanks with
q.
also with Taylor and Anderson, with
whom I traveId on the Tanana river
from Nenana to Chena.
The party got 10 the foothills about
the first OF March. 1910. and a little
later Davidson and Horne left them
Lloyd had been hunting mountain sheep
IN the region and ne led the party I'D
the slope by easy passes and through
the experience of McGonOgiH made his
way over the great Muldrow glacier.
It took them about - days to get 20
the head of the glacier with their
dogs and supplies, and IL was on the
tenth OF April that Taylor. Anderson
and McGOnOgiu made the final part OF
the ascent, climbing over the ice by
means OF irons strapped to their mos
cssins and with hooked pipe-poles in
selves together with ropes as they
crswled over the ice, and there was No
cutting Of steps It was every man
for himself. ana they gradually climbed
tain. carrying a 14-fOot flagstaff with
them They planted the flagstaff on
the peak and 1t stands there today.
Top Is Like Giant Horseshoe.
The north peak is several hundred
feet lower than the south peak The
top Of the mountain is somewhat like
a horseshoe. II is an extinct volcano
and the south point is perhaps 500 feet
Lloyd. Pete Anderson, Billy Taylor AMI
Charlie McGonogill could easily have
gone over and climbed the south peak.
but they wanted their flag where it
could be seen by telescope at Fair
banks. $50 miles away. They thought
II would be visible. although IL was
not This gives the honor OF the high
est ascent TO the party headed by Arch
deacon Stuck. who with Harry Kar-
stems the Alaska scout and guide.
climbed to the top of the south peak
in 1913. Belmore Browne had come
within about 100 feet Of il the year
before that, but an earthquake. which
had shaken down the great ice masses.
and the blizzard which came Up at that
altitude prevented his reaching the
top
As 10 the ascent Of Harry Karstens
and Archdeacon Stuck. ! got the story
of il from Harry Karstens as We sat
and chattsd together in the saloon of
Big BIZ McPhee at Fairbanks. 1t was
Big Bill. you remember, who put Up
one-third Of the money which enabled
Lloyd. Anderson and Taylor TO climb
the north peak Harry Karstens is a
youHS trapper and hunter, famous for
his nerve on the trail He is a noted
guide and takes out and cares for rich
hunters when they come to the Yukon
He brought the first mail into Fair
banks and took the first letters into