davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

where it startS-is weighted by tas- sel; the other end forms the train. En passant, do not fail to note this little lady's coiffure. It is arranged in the very latest 1S40 style, parted and looped over the temples, caught up high at the back and curled in three bewitching little corkscrew ring lets just over the ears.
 Jet And Black Tulle Gowns Aplenty.
 From the number of women who are planning to wear black evening gowns at the opera this winter, one might look forward to a very somber fashion display in orchestra and boxes; but the new black evening gowns are anything but somber. Black as a somber or mournful hue-is under the ban at present. Many wom- en are even averse to the wearing of mourning during the period of the war because mourning garb will have an inevitably discouragiing and depress- ing effect on those who must make the greatest sacrifices for patriotism. But if black as mourning is under the ban: black as brilliant, striking effect for evening wear is quite different. CaIlot Soeurs have turned out several stunning black gowns and one model is pictured, a creation that suggests the Empire or Directoire influence in it's long, straight lines and lifted waist line. This gown is made of jetted black tulle over black satin meteor. The square decolletage is filled in with black tulle. Under this, at the front of the bodice. is lining of flesh colored tulle and satin but at the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

TT N PARIS they are putting very
 deep berthas, capes to the waist
 line in fact, on evening gowns,
 and for these Venise lace is the favorite material. The lace cape is gored over the shoulder so that it falls in smooth. graceful lines, show ing the silhouette of shoulder and arm, and at the decolletage the cape or bertha" sets smoothly, also, with out gathers. The lower edge of the cape falls just to the bend of the elbows. Lace garnishings of this sort will suggest a way to make the simple blouse do double duty for day and evening, indeed one such blouse has already been contrived for weekend wear. It is very simple model of flesh colored crepe de chine, with a shallow round neck finished with one of the turned over crush collars of satin that fasten at the back. For in formal dinner wear during a week end visit a deep cape of Spanish lace made out of an old scarf-is thrown over the bodice, it's upper edge tucked under the turned over satin collar.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
ACal1ot SoeupG Creation of Tulle and Bpocade for
 Opera Weap

lines of drapery are attained; then two stitches catch the corner in place and a jeweled clasp hides the two stitches. Not another stitch does there appear to be in the whole crea- ton as far as one can see.
 Premet has made some of these winding gowns of velvet. some of metal brocade, some of rich, soft satin meteor. and 1t is interesting to note how much green the couturiers are using In evening gowns. Miss Mary Garden wore the first green tulle gown when she arrived in Amer ica some weeks ago and that green gown, with great green emerald ear rings and the milk-white Mary Garden skin, certainly did create sensation. Jenny has come out with a gorgeous green and black gown splashed with gold embroidery, and this is the more surprising, since Jenny has been put ting emphasis on the soft, subdued colors that best express feminine sen- uments during sorrowful war days. But temperament will always break out no matter how sternly. restrained and perhaps one may set down the brilliant green and gold Jenny gown to an outbreak of temperament.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
What Callot Has Sent Over For Opera
 Wear.

Two pictures on today's page show the wrapped drapery effect; or drap- cry made from several yards of ma terial that is not cut or shaped before being draped on the figure. One of these costumes is a rose colored chif- ion velvet frock built for a debutante; the other is Callot Soeurs creation of sapphire blue and silver gray bro- cade which has the true winding effect from shoulder to ankle.
 Velvet may seem a stately material to put on the little debutante, but debutantes wear velvet now, just as their grandmamma's wear tulle-if they choose. The rose velvet gown pictured is charmingly youthful in its straight. loose lines. most of the drapery occurring between waistline and knee. The soft folds of rose col ored chiffon which soften the severe line of the decolletage are continued down the back in floating scarf drapery which is very graceful, and bands of crystal bead trimming, form ing shoulder straps follow the edge of the chiffon scarf.
 The trailing scarf idea is represented again in the Callot Soeurs gown of tinguished gown is this one for 8 youthful matron. Seams, stitches, definite cut are absolutely unsuggest- ed by the two lengths of fabric, one silver gray tuIle; the other silver and blue brocade. which form the cos tune. One end of the brocade-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
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 @<ro9125l2S <Iowe<~

were made to do duty, honorably and adequately on the festal board. Now adays, however, each season must see it's new table decorations. The cry is for new vases, new bowls, new styles in canal dlesticks. A mere mass of roses in cut glass jar may be beautiful from the artistic standpoint-but it is not smart One must have several slender silver vases, each holding a rose; or perhaps roses are out of date for the dinner table and instead, three jonquils in shallow Japanese basin give the approved touch of elegance. It keeps a modern hostess busy. read ing up about last words in decorative conceits. and proving about the. chinaware shops in order to be ad- vised of the dernier cri in flower hold. CTS.
 At the moment white glazed pottery is the thing for table decoration, or the dainty Italian pottery in old ivory finish. A small, handled urn of Italian pottery with a delicate open design may be had for eight dollars or SO, a fruit bowl to match costs about ten dollars. Two of these graceful urns make a charming wedding gift; or a single urn for flowers and two match ing candlesticks of the ivory finished pottery.
 White Capri ware is less expensive and some of the receptacles for flow CTS and fruit are very graceful; for instance a low basket with high, twist ed handle for three dollars, a f1uted plate for fruit as low as a dollar, and so on. At a recent bridesmaids luncheon one of these handled Capri baskets filled with pink roses graced the center of the table, and at equal distance from the white basket were low comports in which punches of grapes were artistically arranged. At another luncheon the centerpiece was an Italian pottery bowl filled with green and white candies. Thanking the bowl were white pottery urns banked with moss and asparagus fern Between meals. the white pottery
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

Similar in style to the lace berthas are velvet capes which fit high around the throat in standing collar (cut in one with the cape.) The lower edge of the cape is scaIloped and the top of the velvet collar rolls over the least bit to reveal facing of bright colored satin. The resourceful wom- an will see a comfortable wrap as we'll as a smart dress belonging in the vel vet cape which may be donned over a thin bodice when one is morally cer- tain ones hostess will not have a warm enough parlor for the bridge party.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
BlaGk ENenir8 FrsOck fOr OperS wear- ADecided DipeCtoIre
Hote inthiS Jet and
 Tuue Combination

back the deep square, filled in with black tulle is entirely unlined. Callot Soeurs have properly compiled with the French Government decree that no gown shall be cut out in a pro- nounced decolletage; the black tulle comes up well to the neck at the back! This gown has floating sleeves of tulle edged with single row of small jet beads. E
 Wonderful Wraps For The Opera
 It is worth waiting out in the cold at the carriage foyer entrance, to see the gorgeous wraps after the opera. Limousine after limousine draws up
 at the steps-on 39th and 10th streets you know equipages have right of way
 clear up over the pavement on opera nights. If you are a foot passenger
 you must look out for yourself-or
 select some other cross street-and
 society waits in it's warm wraps. chat
 ting socially in the foyer while the
 carriage numbers are called. Two new opera wraps for this season are pictured, one of fur and the other. more than half of fur-according to
 this seasons notion The upper part
 of a wrap may be of velvet or of rich
 brocade-ike this one-and the lower
 part, cuffs and huge collar of peltry.
 The wrap pictured is partly of seal skin and partly of blue and gold brocaded velvet. The all-fur wrap is chinchil1a; no more distinguished
 wrap is likely to be seen at the opera
 this season than this chinchilla model which is well-nigh worth its weight in gold. So fashionable is gray this
 season that gray fur wraps are more modish than ermine, though many of the chinchilIa and moleskin wraps are
 heavily trimmed with ermine. Bro caded velvet wraps in magnificent shades of ruby and wine color are l trimmed with skunk. sable or ko-l | linsky. An adorable opera wrap for l a debutante is of marine blue velvet I with a knee-deep band of chinchiila. 1 and a chinchilla cape collar. Another debutante opera wrap is of white vel- vet with beaver fur trimming.
 Just space remaining to tell about
 the last word in opera fans-the sort | of fan to be held negligently in the l left hand with the curving tail feath-
 CTS slanting away dashingly backward as one sits with the arm resting along l the velvet balustrade of the opera box.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

the gray-green pottery, with pussy willows, jonquils or white flowers is most artistic.
 Venetian glass vases in amber shad- ings are considered very distinguished when the mellow lights reflected by the glass on the tablecloth harmonize with the color scheme of the table decorations and candle shades. Some of this Venetian glassware comes in a rich Chinese yellow shade. other pieces show glints of jade and rich blue. There is also new Chinese glass-so called in a wonderful pure jade color which is delightful with white and green floral decorations.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

Most of these fashions-one may say all of them-come from Paris, and Paris has been extremely busy for weeks getting ready for the opening of American opera. Not all of the new styles that Paris has sent over will be accepted by American women, but some of them will; and 1t is safe to say that anything launched by Lanvin or by Jenny will prevail. These dressmakers are much beloved in America, each has coterie of dew otees; just as in England, Worth and Paquin-and one must not omit Red fern-have their especial followers. But then Redfern is adored wherever smart tailored wear is appreciated. No one knows how to build sport clothes of distinction like Redfern!
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

way of arranging flowers is shown here-not g mass of blossoms, but a few flowers artistical1y and carefully arranged, with leaves spraying out from the central mass in feathefy eff feet A good many people would set the leaves toward the bottom of the bouquet instead of arranging them on long stems to give this light and feath- cry outline. The Japanese method of arranging flowers always shows this delicate grace of outline and many American hostesses have prof1ted from lessons in flower arrangements given
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

better is showing colored pottery fruit to be used "decoratively" in the white pottery receptacles; but one cannot imagine woman of taste and breed ing making a display of imitation fruit in her dining room.
 A most attractive example of this white glazed pottery is pictured in the three-section centerpiece filled with dull green berries and moss. The filagree bowls topping the pottery pedestals are delicate and graceful and there is a dignity about this cen terpiece which seems to suggest a formal dinner party. Less formal but equally pleasing is the low, hexagonal jar with an openwork pattern in the glazed pottery panels. The modern
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

by Japanese experts in this art.
 One of the most attractive flower receptacles pictured is the elongated bowl of pottery supporting a light lattice-work made of enameled wood. Over this lattice various flowers may be arranged very gracefully, and no undue amount of skill is necessary to achieve pleasing effect. Geraniums with their large leaves are shown in the photograph; nasturtiums. sweet peas and other familiar flowers would clambor over the trel1is equally we'll /
 One hostess. in the eternal quest for something new and unusual has orig mated the scheme of hanging fern basket in place of the overhead dome" which has dominated the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
French Couturiers Now Wrap
 DraperieS.

French Couturfers Now Wrap
 Draperies.
 The new Paris silhouette in evening attire is the wrapped silhouette. These winding draperies that swathe the figure from shoulder, to ankle seem to be the simplest things imaginable. Premet, for instance, appears to attach six yard length of-say, peach tinted velvet, just below the armpits, sus- pending 1t from two jeweled shoulder straps. and winding the velvet round and round until the floor has been reached. Then there is the end of the material to be disposed of; but this is easy for Premet. A corner of the velvet is picked up between thumb and forefinger and held here and there against the gown until just the right
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
THE NEW SANDWICH MAN"
 ASH,HOJJETTE.

- AS IT OCCURRED to you that
 the silhouette of the moment is
 rather like that of the peri patetic sandwich man who la boriously carries his slogan or his ad- up and down the streets The new paneled, straight lined street frock certainly gives this effect Here
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

is the rectangular silhouette, shoulder. hip and bottom of skirt absolutely the same width; the line from shoulder to foot perfectly straight; front and back view flat and angular, the silhouette from the side almost nothing at all. In other words a perfect sandwich man" effecti &s
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
BAKE THE APPLES IN MUFFIN ---- RINGG

IF APPLES, after being cored ready
 for baking, are set in muffin rings,
 they will bake without falling
 apart. The muffin rings should be placed in a large pan so that the juice from the cooking apples may not run over the rings to the floor of the oven.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

ornaments They are displayed in lonely and classic dignity on mahog- any side tables, two white urns flank ing a fruit-flled bowl, or one white urn between tall Dolphin cand1esticks. A novelty shop that ought to know
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

SIGNIFICANT EVIDENCE Of
 the modern spirit of unrest is
 the unremitting endeavor of v hostesses to achieve new eff fects in, table decorations. Every week some new contrivance for the display of flowers, fruit or candles appears on the market, and that din- ner or luncheon Is not an acknowl- edged success which does not develop some new and attractive scheme of decoration. Once upon a time every housewife who prfded- herself upon her table appointments owned cer- tain number of vases, bowls and candlesticks- Some of these were heirlooms. others represented wedding gifts of recent or ancient date, and in rotation, according to the rotation of flowers in season, these ornaments
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28
\ PERA IS A HABIT as inevitable
 with one section of society as
 the Worlds Baseball Series is with anothar Roth oya-fba;-


 with another. Both have their sacred place in the round of the sea- sons, and each occurs according to schedule when it is due. The opening of Metropolitan opera comes in No vember. A good deal of fuss is made about the opera premiere-or first night After that opera goes on, week in and week out until the season is over, and nobody is unduly concerned about it-speaking from the sartorial standpoint But the frocks and the wraps worn on opening night have a special value in that they establish the fashions of the season, not for the small percentage of women who wear them. but for the hundreds of thou sands of women all over the country whose evening attire for the winter will be decided by what the fashion ables wear at the opera premiere.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-11-28

Wrapped Effects In Dra- pery the Notable. Feature In Evening Gowns Vel vet for the Debutante As We'll As Dowager -' Cleaning I IrimmingsAdd
 To Briliancy of Opera Costumes Wraps.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10

said when discussing it, "Those two
boys are handful and they were, yet
I had opposed another maid on the
grounds of expense.
81 can afford it all rightl'' Bob
had answered my objections. eff
couldn t L wouldn t have proposed it =.
l knew money meant nothing to Bob,
even though he worked hard for it. He
spent generously always, and Row that
we had home all paid for he seem
ed at times little reckless. Then, too,
often told him I would rather have
less to do with, and have him give up
the partnership in the publishing busi-
ness which had become my bette noir.
But at last | had consented to em-
ploy a second maid. The house was large,
the work with two children rather heavy
and Della was becoming a bit disgrunt
led 1 had advertised, and as the day
passed l had little time to think of
Bob's defection--or what L considered
such, because of the constant stream of
applications.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10

me good bye. Gone to stay over night.
He had not given me the usual morning
kiss nor the one in greeting at night for
some time; one day | spoke of it and
he muttered something about hypoc-
risy but he was feeling cross that day
so + paid no attention to the excuse.
Now / recalled it and wondered what
it meant.
At first I thought would take his
advise and ask Mrs. Baldwin to spend
the evening with me. But as / thought
of her keen insight, her lack of faith
in men, and the remarks she would
surely make anent Bob $ absence, l con-
eludede | would rather spend the even
ing alone.
Bob had insisted that have sec
ond girl.
"You have too much care, " he had
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10
Margaret CARROTS
49, Husband 1n

stBnt 7 shall. he so Ionelvl I am so
.;.5 III, !,
'iiVu anu "oiii out
Nohsehse' II you are ufed' go 10
bed. If you are lonely, have Mrs. Bald
win come in and spend the evening
with von,
S.yon n ba boat +on;ohts,,
esN n y ~ OaeA soi'le e..
tba night ~ tbat s r,;ll 6a,e +in,o ~
aisenss tbe monnsor;n. - y - ''''' -
"Wel who elsa i 'roinaso
..,r,a,, ~. nv s''e - Suns
~ migbt baye Lnasn = xy,s Ia ,ybo
rot von ~ leave me- ~ how + Jisl;i,c =
Fiat mani,
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10

Weary Waldron, the hard-luck college
bred hobo, was tightening his belt at
the corner of Main street and the post
office, when worried looking man ac-
eosted him.
Would you like to make twenty-five
dollars, he asked.
Perhaps there are some other things
that | should prefer replied Weary
Waldron, "but at the moment 1 am
unable to think of them.r
Its very easy" explained the wor-
Iried-looking man. All you gotta do is
run out on the stage, all tarred and
feathered. during the last act of His
Sweetheart s Honor At the conclusion
.of the performance you get the twenty
five"
" Well, twenty-five bones of the realm
are goodly stipend" mused Weary
Waldron, and accompanied the theatri-
cal man to the Grand Opera House.
where where waited two men with a
bucket of hot tar and tub of feathers.
i Oooh owtch! = yelled Weary Wald-
ron at the first application. Cannot
the substance be applied at a more
moderate temperature?
Certainly not; cold tar won It
stick, " said the manager, and the work
went on. Ten minutes later with Weary
Waldron tarred and feathered to the
waist, a telegram was delivered to the
manager.
The shows off for tonight" he
announced. "The leading lady s sick
and can't show up till tomorrow night.
Stick around till then and we II finish
the job. -
At various points along the country.
side that night strange figure, seem
ingly half man and half ostrich, was
seen running for dear life, in a direction
opposite to the Grand Opera House.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10
A PERIOD OF ANXIETY.
CHAPTER LxXIX.

CHAPTER LXXIX.
Donald had been very i'll, and was
peevish and ailing for some time l was
completely worn out with nursing him.
loss Of sleep and the care of little
George, Mother came out and took
George home with her, hoping to re-
heve me.
/ realize now that during this time
was fretful and cross, my nerves were
strained to the utmost, aud l nagnified
every untoward circumstance.
Don I wait dinner for me tonight
Bob said as he left the house about a
week after Donald had been pronounc-
ed out of danger ann going over to
sec Miss Riggs
Why, Bob, you wouldn t leave me
now would youl'
tWhy notl Why shouldn t keep my
engagement Donald is all right, and
there could be nothing else to keep
me.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10
I'll ElL E MI Mn N

Labor union organizers extremely active in Salem
as elsewhere They taking advantage Of the scarcity
of labor due to the drafts to force their organza
ons into every line OF business and industry regardless
Of its effect upon production and tn prosecution Of the
war. In country where wages and working conditions
the best in the world labor agtators are playing
the hands of the Prussan lords every conceivable
manner In order to promote only selfish ends What they
will really accomplish is the downfall of unonism beyond
the question Of doubt when peace restored 1t is
adfcut matter to hold up any industry in the present
stress and force the acceptance of unreasonable terms
but it will be different when conditions normal again
and the necessity for forced production is at an ena
Employers will remember the treatment accorded them
when they virtually helpless and repay same
coin with interest when their turn They will mott
be human if they do not.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10

What the governor intends to do in the way Of contin
uing the flax industry in connection with the prison only
he knows he wise and has the interest of the matter
at heart he will either reempoy Mr. Crawford who is one
of the few really expert flax in the United States
seek the services of William Cunningham who at one time
was suggested for the place. and who Eugene Bosse pro-
nounces one of the abest flax experts in the word or
he will if still possible get Mr. Hansett now operating
plant Of his at nearby town. If the governor is
going to the position to reward political friend
instead Of trying to make the business success the end
of the flax experiment be foretod without the aid of
necromancy.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-12-10

The Of the catacysm that has destroyed Halifax
was not the collision of the vessels in the harbor there
though that the thing that led up it. but the carry
ing of tanks of benzne the deck of the vessel which
caught fire due to the effects Of the collision 1t was
daring OF fate much carrying matches and powder
in the receptacle More than that it was criminal
and reckless careessness With 1000 tons of the most
terrific explosive known the Of setting it off were
it looks like carefully provided When investigating the
cause of the disaster the committee need go further
than to find out who was resonsbe for the loading of
the benzine on ship with such cargo.