davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08
@UZzeL1Zu1eZzu1 L/2Icv2p5D

of dark mohair, the modern house has
a retinhe carefully and correctly at
tired. There is the footman in piano.
ply of braided blue cloth and silver
buttons; there Is the coachman
swathed to the chin in furs and
equipped with neat leather boots and
leggings. There is the par1or maid
with sheer apron and beribboned cap;
the housemaid in simple dark mohair
with bib apron Of scalloped linen;
milady's personal maid all in black.
with a coquettish black silk apron and
a pronounced French accent; the cook
in spotless white with close cap over
her neat hair; and last but far from
least the keeper Of the nursery, alarm
ingly well trained in matters OF
hygiene and clad in fresh linen and
all-covering apron.
The nurse may wear white linen OF
blue linen according to her mistress
! fancy. Such tender shades as pink
green or yellow are, however, de-
barred her. Over the white or blue
linen dress, made with utmost SIM
plicity and short enough to reveal
trim, low heeled pumps and white
stockings, goes the big apron, the lat
ter, of course, white and always fresh
and SpoueSs. The nurSemaid may
have to change her apron seven times
day but never must she be caught
with spot on it! This apron is cir
cular in cut SO that it fits very trinity
| over the hips and covers the skirt al
most to its hem, coming we'll around
toward the back. 1t is fastened with
a buttoned belt, and above the belt is
narrow bib with straps that button
at the back of the neck. The more
the nursemaid looks like a regulation
hospital trained nurse, the better. and
indeed the proficient nursemaid has
| taken q course in embarrassing and
knows all about temperatures. infant
feeding, etc.
The nursemaid wears a very neat
linen collar, starched to snowy stiff
ness, but her cuffs must be of some
soft, sheer material that will not
scratch tender baby skin. Her cap. is
patterned after the crisp, business
like cap of the hospital nurse. The
indoor uniform consists of dress OF
pale blue linen. made in one piece and
huttonad down the front with incon-
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

background for the modern, scientific
ally reared infant.
The English nursemaid's uniform is
SO altogether admirable, so in keeping
with the conservative standards OF
modern times that it has been adopted
on this side of the water by the elect
by those mothers, that is. who pattern
their households and the uniforms of
their servants according to best and
most correct standards. From the
naughty butler with his perfect Eng
lish accent and his livery of dark blue
with gilt buttons during the day and
his immaculate black. and white at
dinner hour to the humble being who
| rolls out the ash cans in his neat suit
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08
~ ROBABLY the most picturesque
ly attired nursemaid in the
world is the Indian Ayah and
hor fouvinr Oriental costume is

world is the Indian Ayah and
y her flowing, Oriental costume is
familiar in England, for in years past
many English officers wives have
brought home with them these rare
nurses whose faithfufness cannot be
surpassed by nursemaids of any other
nationality. The Indian Ayah is not
SO familiar figure in England these
days as she was a few years ago for
few little English babies, born In In
dia, are travelling home to England
now.
The next most picturesque nurse Is
the French bonne with her scarlet silk
lined cape and coquettish, snowy cap
with long scarlet ribbons. She wears
high-heeled slippers, does the piquant
French nursemaid, with snowy white
cotton stockings, and though rather
conspicuous and light opera-ish for
conservative English and American
standards, her costume is surely very
charming one. America too, has been
able to boast of characteristic nurse
maids uniform-the broad, snowy
apron and gay twisted bandanna Of
the dear old southern nanny. And
where has ever nursemaid been
found to equal that delightful, now
almost obsolete devoted nanny of
the southland? But the modern blue
coated, blue-bonneted nurse has her
picturesque features too; and perhaps
her restrained, highly suggestive of
scientific training, garb is the best
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

ideal, of course, which inspired the
first Directoire modes back in the early
eighteenth century. The forerunner
Of the SDirectoire or Grecian evening
gown is the Greek sleeve which is al
ready making it's appearance in late
winter ball rooms and at the opera
This sleeve, fashioned of ARREST fabric
-tul1e or metal woven tissue-aoats
about the arm. half revealing and
partly concealing it. Sometimes the
sleeve" is merely a shoulder scarf of
tulle, caught to the shoulder straps of
tn q hodica. a aair, it ho strna N, r.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

to subject her wardrobe to hard trials
unless some one ''picls up after her.
The fastenings of hooks and eyes,
snappers and buttons, should be
looked to in ready made raiment for
the fapper, the stitching of facings
and hens, and more than all, the sew
ing of the costume. Fewer manu-
facturers now are putting cheap sub
stitutes for silk thread in the seams
and hens of youthful costumes, for
mothers know the value of silk sew
ing in the better wear and longer dis
tinction of garment; but occasional
ly one finds an otherwise attractive
coat or frock cheaply sewed and it is
a wise mother who discards it. how
ever charming the color and style,
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08
, for model better and more honestly

for model better and more honestly
finished.
Blue Checked Goats For Springtime.
There seems nothing so fresh and
springlike on youth as a spring coat
in fine checked worsted. This year
blue and white checks are outrivaling
the Fundamentally popular pep
per and salt checks in favor, for Paris
has sets the seal of approval on the
blue and white mixture. Copied from
a Lanvin coat for a young girl, is the
graceful blue and white checked wor-
sted model pictured. The lines of this
coat could hardly be excelled in grace
and good style and the simplicity of
the coat is admirable for the Aapper
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

of tulle attached to the armhole under
the arm and leaving the shoulder quite
bare, and the end Of the streamer be-
ing caught again in bracelet at the
wrist Sometimes there is one floating
Crecian sleeve, the other arm being
quite bare to the shoulder. Women
with lovely arms will have none of the
new Greek sleeves; the gauzy shoulder
scarf of tulle which may be thrown off
or wrapped around one forearm being
quite enough in their estimation; bur
other women not the ipossessors of
such lovely arms are glad to welcome
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

N ARTS knows that it is always
rather difficult to force Directoire
modes on American women. The
small-boned, dainty Parisienne is at
her best in the clinging, high wasted
gowns OF Recamier and Josephine, but
American women take much more
kindly to fashions that define the nat
ural waistline and the long lines of
hip and back. Upon Directoire modes
for evening gowns at least-Paris
seems to be determined. however, and
as always at the beginning of Di-
rectoire revival, these modes are called
classic. Grnnian- 1t tho ri q sain
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

over the knee, yet still some distance
from the buttoned boot top. The
waist is cut out in deep, rounded V
which shows a chemisette and collar
of white Georgette. the latter matched
by cuffs.
The party frock is just such a party
frock as little maid of dapper age
should wear. Innocent and childish
it is with it's tiny puffed sleeve. it's
sash and it's crossed fichu-bodice, yet
it's silver lace ruffies and its knowing
little corsage bouquet OF violets and
roses give tin flapper eyes-quito
a young ladified air. The silver lace
is attached to fine net and the frock is
dropped over white net foundation.
The sash is of ciel blue soiree silk,
and Of course. silk stockings accom-
pany the dancing pumps. No girl of
flapper age may be permitted high
heels; little thing like a wrong boot
heel could spoil the entire effect of
her jeune file costume. Dancing Slip
pers, smart buttoned walking boots
and stout laced sport shoes may be
gracefully shaped and Of expensive
leather and fabric, but their lines
must be youthful and their heels very
low. The flapper may not have high
heels and neither may she have the
extremely pointed toe that her debu-
tante sisters footwear displays.
Payday Toys For The Flapper.
The school or morning dress of
plaid Bingham and plain colored
chambray is all that 1t should be in
simplicity and good taste. Collar and
cuffs of white pique are embroidered
in blue and belt of dark blue velvet
ribbon is drawn through the pleats
of the blouse. The necktie of blue
silk cord is a smart 1917 touch, these
little cord ties being more fashionable
for youthful wear than flowing silk
ties just now. The sport frock Of gray
linen will be approved by every youth
full maid. Practical it is and quite
the latest and most "spiffy' Ito quote
the fapper's own beloved adjective),
thing in tennis dresses-far smarter
than the long adored MILDLY style.
/ A "spiffy'' sport sweater is shown
too, an adorable slip-on affair in white
and green wcrsted with neck open
ing that fastens with little worsted
loops over covered buttons. Green
cords lace up the side seams over the
| hips.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08
A CLINT TO THE rREssEs

tbs years advance the hair turns
ID darker, 9ust before it gets ready
to turn gray. Golden hair takes
on a brown tone and what has been
gold-lighted brown hair is apt to look
dull and almost black. Two table,
spoonfuls of peroxide dropped into
the rinsing water when the hair is
shampooed will keep it lighter and
bring out the golden glints and will
not hasten the CRAVING process; but
peroxide must not be applied directly
to the scalp or the hair will become
hleecked ard streaked
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

age. The belt, made of three bias
strips of the checked material, and
the narrow cuff, also of bias cut, give
variety to the straight lines Of the
coat. The lines are semi-ftting above
the belt, with deep pleats below and
the coat falls just below the knee,
covering the frock entirely. A charm
ing hat Of white straw and old blue
taffeta with pink roses under and
over the mushroom brim, white
gloves, and white buttoned boots and
stockings complete this attractive
springtime costume for a little maid
of thirteen years.
Rows of silk stitching and buttons
are the most distinctive trimming for
a fapper coat. Soutache embroidery
appears on some models but for some
reason or other there is an "elderly''
suggestion about soutache and it is
never at it's best on youthful garments.
Very attractive is a junior coat OF
gray mohair and worsted material
with many rows of white silk stitching
and collar facing of white silk. This
coat has white pearl buttons. and
when accompanied by white gloves
and white buttoned boots and stock
ings is very smart indeed. There are
spring coats of navy blue serge also
and good looking models Of tan CAB.
ardine. For later wear coats of tar
or gray tussah with collar and cuff.
Of striped taffeta, are being shown.
Frocks "For Best" And For Everyday
No better model could be selected
! for girl of thirteen or fourteen year:
than the pictured frock of blue faille
matinee silk. The color is neither
navy nor Copenhagen blue but a soft
beautiful shade between and the line:
of the frock are carefully planned tt
give grace and distinction to the
stretching-up contours of the "awk'
| ward age". The long wasted upper
part is slightly full, yet very trim
drawn under a draped sash: the
fiounces on the skirt give added grace
i and the skirt is just the right length
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08
Be Worn.

such uniforms to order and a new
maid is sent to be measured and cor
rectly equipped as soon as she is en-
gagged. A nursemaid's coat costs about
thirty dollars, a summer coat of mo-
hair slightly less; but there is no rea-
son why such coat could not be
turned out in the home sewing room,
in very presentable style, by a good
rsn~<r~~A-~
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-03-08

Frock Of Blue FaiIle
Hatlnee .wlthCollar
and CUFFS ofWhlte
'GeorSette
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
LOVER THERE"
BY DIR. FRANK CRANE

Over there they're going million brightest
here why all this Of Liberty Bonds food and surtax
feed, clothe ID soldiers
trenches foutng death in the umpee charge What doing
Cicizng the
ride hobbies?
there of red miarsm by throat
seeking
onslaught Of hreeheaded
d rayaging earth?
in
the
rubbish heaps pratng
the mailed fist
here than
at
froepe are allies Of
doing-Over here?
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
Twenty Years Later

doomed, he can hardly Rve smother
year."
"But just what lie the matted. win
hint" the friend asked.
Dement'S paralytica - pagegls -
softening Of the BRAIN" said The aDs-
cialtgt.
"From overwork7" ashsd tAs
friend.
The specialist shrugged his shoal-
defs.
"Put it that way IL you like," saad
he. "As matter Of fact 3 q from
syphilis. It always is from syphilis. 70
A few months more and tbs end
had come. The curtain bad rolled
down on . Mfe tragedy Of which tAe
first scene was enacted when the TN
happy victim had his good time IN
the Tenderloin twenty years carrier.
His case, alas. is not an UNCOMMON
one. Quite the contrary.
North. South, East and West our
hospitals for the insane hold many
men and women waiting for the same
fatal termination 10 their good
times" OF years before.
OF the population Of these inSE1kW-
ti0ns, about Is per cent. OF the men,
and z or 8 per cent. Of eh0 women
are pareeica. All OF these are men
and women who ct some time OF
other have had syphilis.
A certain prop0rtion-but Q snA0
one - contracted their gyphfl1
through no fault Of their own. Tho
vast majority got It through fmmOE0
intercourse.
Wherefore one who knOWB -
aptly suggested:
"Ove1 the door Of every Immoral
resort o sign should be put, Hea6en9,
'Ineurable insanity may be 0eQAfre6
here"
= the game worth what 3 may
cost?
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
~ ON sATHTW

IAN American lumbeFJack O. me
an Australian in ono r~DeeGs-A@
doesn't hike to salute.''
So says Henry b. Barnes, fOgmaR
travelling salesman from Cleveland
Ohio, and now in France. For the
past two months he has lived and
eaten and slept with regular New
England 1umbermen IN NOrt1sx1
Scotland. where they are bazy haua-
ing and cutting lumber for Uncso
Sans armies In France. The WORK
In q remote Y. n. c. A shack in TIE
mountains has hardships q its own,
no doubt, but the only dt@e1lfy
which MF. Barnes mentions "a that Of
keeping the lumbermen from saying,
Hands down" when &c comes to 80
luting time. cit isn't" he says, that
they haven't all due respect, but Sim
ply that it is harder for them to "a
Iute than it is for . plumber 70
paint"
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12

There are good times and good
times. Some good times are such
bad times that, Tor q few minutes Of
immoral pleasure" 0 penalty Of
lifelong misery and iM-health may be
enacted.
Or, IL q heavy penalty "a seemingly
evaded. 1t may in reality only be post
poned. Ten. fifteen or twenty years
later, and 90 o direct result Of the
good time" of the long before. death
In . terrible form may strike down
the misguided pleasure-seekw.
I once knew young man VINO,
visiting q big city for the first time,
and ablaxe with youths eager euriOs-
fly TO "see Hfe." let himself be per
suaded to spend q night in the Ten
derloin.
Next day remorse and shame had
possession Of him. He had seen
things and done things he knew he
should not have seen and done. He
thought of the decent folk back
home. and his conscience troubled
him.
A few days afterward he had addi-
tiOnal cause for worry. 1t became
necessary for him to consult doctor.
The doctor looked grave, limited
darby at Q serious blood infection
and prescribed Q powerful drug. He
warned his worried patient that Q
long course OF treatment would Be
needed.
But. under the influence OF the
drug. things cleared mp Quickly. The
young man felt quite wen again. He
forgot the Doctors warning, and
stopped treatment.
Time passed. Buekling down to
hard work I'm his chosen profession,
the young man prOgpered exeeed-
ingiy. After Q while he married.
His hogne Life wss the KapUeegt inn
agfnable. He became Q man Of stand
ing, deseEvedly respected By al who
knew hlM.
Thus things went for ten years
more, without q cA0ud On the horizon
Of his life. Then he began 10 behave
strangely.
He showed poor judgment In buGi-
neas matters. He lost concentration
power. His memory began to play
HIM Gk9SkDs A8DO 40 0SS94sA0 OAA0SC
|eOuntably irritable.
Il was thought that all he needed
was Q long vacation. But rest and
change Of scene did him no good.
Instead, other symptoms developed.
His speech became tndistfnct. He
stumbled over words. There was Q
peculiar tremcr in the muscles
around his mouth.
s.T0 Is Doomed"
A famous specialist in nervous dis
orders was asked to look him over.
Promptly he sent Tor his patients
closest friend.
81 want you" he said, "tO prepare
this mans wife for the worst. he Il
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
TKY CAN GET IN

Mem who resigned their positions
after being ordered to report at the
National Army camps but who were
subsequently notified that they would
not be called until later. win be al
mitted 20 the camps on their personal
applications, according to an an
m0umcement by Provost Marshal Gen
eraI Crowder. The number Of men 80
admitted, however, must not exceed
one per cent of states quota"
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
HOW,D YOU LIKE A PARAl2

At the present session Of COngress
senator Harding, Of Ohio, hopes to
get bill passed which will give every
american soldier ct the end Of the
war an opportunity to become the
owner of . small farm. He believes
the farms should be made available
10 the soldiers at q price regulated
Nv the government and on the basis
n moderate instruments.
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
II DKPENDS

Where do 60 when the shrapnel
begins to Ay," inquired q soldier Of
. sergeant training him for service
In the trenches.
"That depends upon the kind Of
life you've been living" replied the
sergeant.
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12


This 10 the song for soldier
TO sing % he rides from home
70 the fields afar where the battles are
Or over the oceans foam.
whatever the dangers waiting
I'm the lands haVe not seen,
If do not faIl-n come back ut all
Then win come back clean.
Il may lie in the mud of the trenches,
may reek with blood and mire,
But win control, by the God In my soul
The might OF my mans desire
1wn fight my foe In the open,
But my sword shall be sharp and keen
For the foe within who would lure me to Gin,
And viii come back clean
Il may not leave for my children
Brave medals that have worn,
But the blood in my veins shall leave no stains
On bride or on babes unborn.
And the scars that my body may carry
Shall not be from deeds obscene
For my will shall say TO the beast, OBEYl
And win come back clean.
AOh. not on the fields of slaughter
And not I'm the prison cell,
Or In hunger and cold Is the story told
BY war Of it's darkest he'll.
But the old, Old sin Of the senses
Can tell what that word may mean
To the soldiers wives and to innocent lives
And viii come back clean"
-EHG Wkeeier Wileox.
tcopyrsAt coaeaay. n r Evening JosrnaD
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
FROM THE WEST

Early in the war doubt was raised
as to the loyalty OF the West. Three
of the first ave Americans 70 die in
battle "Over There" came from the
West.
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12


al this uniform isent
sO1dssr she see witch vas the Is the loot init ced
Why shood 60 into Of these tanes to n how to be
from watching the lady at the
well is 6
tte and ced wen think wood maxi eeun looking ofser
is not doing this for myself but Of ben askt BY Jsnr
hear @ help me out meaning the JenriM
the Jenrl
Just the sa beeev me w,snt for enh they coodent no ar
Just like the rest OF with l
dope that the Jenri
coarse he knows about haven't him the loot
q
beleevs aught to q
coodent
ssd wood Be os umthin ced well 70!
this
its the
the
ear l the Jenril
Of
eed by ge0rdge that will
just be q all the time
frein
m.
Trench and camp. ([Admiral, Md.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-12
"Here I Am, Jenil," Says Jim
BY OUR OWN RING w. LARDNER

well al this 10 got to be O. short this time an tho
their In lot to ten you espeshue the chants Of got
four beeing maid into ofger you must Of noticed
in the letters rote the weigh of ben hanging O round
with sarjints and curnels other ofsers Of imDor-
tants such as cOrepraI and cap ten now am
watching to fnd out weather lime to be maid into an
of6ser not maid into l. not that wood rutheR be
an Oflser than pryvat al wood rather not be an
0Aser becaus IL your killd al when your pryvat you
don't have responsibilities for beeing killd your
ootinit has to take it all witch maiks it prie soft
beetng pryvat hay al
we'll even tho you may like beeing pryvat more
than yOu mite Like beeing anything elts times al
you have to do what they tell 70 do witch may not
be what you want to do this 10 what has happint to
me hear in this Tenement al just when everything
10 coming long fne what does the loot init do day
but call me into that room that 10 calld the orderly
room and ced to me why don't apie for Of these
hear nanetng camps wear pryyats are learning how
to becum oh1sers.
he lookt ct me AZ much as to say there IL sum