davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31
HATS ARE SIMPLE
Elaborate Trimming Is Conspicu-
GUS by Its Absence.
cIoche Shapes Are Ruling Favorites
Among the French Millinery
Models This Year.

The new millinery models are ca
ceedingly picturesque, the cloche
shapes are leading favorites, and the
cloche hats Of 1917 are exceptionally
becoming and wearable. writes Idalia
de Villiers. Paris correspondent.
For the greater part these hats have
comparatively narrow brims, combined
with very full. often high, crowns, the
genuine Lambolle crown, which has al
ways proved attractive.
In his Monte Carlo establishment
Lewis is showing some rarely lovely
hats and toques, which depend for sue
cess almost entirely ON their uncommon
outline. This year, more than ever.
elaborate and heavy trimmings are
given no place in the millinery world.
Certainly Il is true that some of the
spring hats intended for afternoon or
restaurant wear show effective ar
rangement of flowers, or even feathers,
but elaborately trimmed hats are con-
splcuous by their absence.
The beautiful "cabriolet" model IL
lustrated here Is shape which is GER
tain of triumphant career.
This is hat which would prove spe-
cially becoming to American women,
and II Is the correct hat to wear with
tailored suits of serge or cloth, or even
with handsome satin dress at res
taurant dinner. This is genuine
cloche shape, but the crown is not en-
tirely Lamballe, though the outline sug-
gests the Marie Antoinette period.
The original model, created by fa-
quin. was made of dull black satin and
lined with raspberry-plnk chip. There
was absolutely no trimming, the folds
Of the crown being so cleverly arranged
that rich effect was obtained by the
most simple means. Long strings of
soft black satin ribbon were added and
these strings, instead of being tied,
were carelessly thrown round the neck,
the ends falling at the back. This hat
would look lovely In dark violet panne,
with lining Of black chip and strings
of violet satin ribbon, or In wine-red
velvet.
Lewis has revived the ribbon hats
with which he had such success a
few years ago hats covered with plain
or interlaced ribbons and lined with
chip or pedal straw. These little hats
nre quite charming and eminently use
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31
Expert Advises Against Big Debt
Running Over Long Period
of Years.
TAKE QUALITY BEFORE SIZE
House Described Here Will Satisfy
Most DiscrimInative II Plans Are
Followed Carefully in All \
Details.
BY WILLIAM A. RADFORD.

Mr.. william A. Radford win answer
questions and give advice FREE OF
COST on all subjects pertaining to the
subject of building, for the readers of this
paper. On account of his wide experience
as Editor. Author and Manufacturer. he
is. without doubt. the highest authority
on all these subjects. Address all inquiries
to William A. Radford, No. 1877 Prairie
avenue Chicago. ILL.,, and only enclose
two-cent stamp for reply.
There is little satisfaction gained
by the man who goes into the building
of home blindly. In most cases such
q man oversteps himself, gets hope
lessly in debt and condemns the home
. building idea because of his own folly.
of owning their own home that they
are willing to make some sacrifice to
obtain 1t. However, If this sacrifice
takes the proportions of burden
which must be carried for too long
a time, its oppression will over
shadow the pleasure which should be
obtained from the home.
This does not mean that a man is
wrong In going into debt to obtain n
home. 1t means that he think well
and figure carefully before taking ac-
tion. If he can easily clear up all in
debtedness in three or perhaps five
years, he is justified in going into the
matter of n home with his architect
and builder.
His first step in the analysis of the
problem should be carefully to figure
his probable resources over the period
which he is willing to give to pay
ing for his home. The man who has
formed the habit of recording his
current expenses accurately is very
much better able to handle the prob
lem than the man who has only his
memory to help him. Suppose the
prospective home builder decides that
he is willing to build if he can clear
himself in five years. He, should look
over his expense account for the pre-
ceding five years and determine as
closely as possible what his yearly ey-
pense has been for food, clothing,
pleasure, sickness and all other scch
items, exclusive of rent.
If his expenses have shown an In
crease over the five-year period, 1t is
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31

amount should not include any doubt
full resources, and it should not in
clude interest on money which is need
ed in the building operations, unless
1T Is possible to borrow like amount
at lower rate than the income rate.
,rhe next item is the money ON hand
or available in sums due the prospec-
tive home builder. This Item will de-
termine largely the kind and size Of
house TO be considered.
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31

For absolute comfort In playing any
game ranging from tennis to golf, this
costume ls In class by itself. The
Jersey jumper In blue and white with
the oval cut neck Is something that is
new for sports wear. The Jumper Is
banded on the neck and the edge with
the same material In white. The cos
tune is unusual for'it was designed
for sports wear only and the acro Of
comfort while participating In any
sport was worked Into it's free and
easily fitting lines. ...-.l..
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31

glands become swollen and easy 70
feel. They may become soft and break
down and discharge as assesses this
is seen constantly in strangles. on
the other hand they may become In
durated and hard and attach them
selves to the jawbone, TO the tongue,
or to the skin. This is seen In
chronic glanders. If the glands are
swollen and tender TO pressure, II in
dicates that the disease causing the
enlargement is acute; If they are hard
and insensitive, the disease causing
the enlargement is chronic.
The manner in which the horse
coughs is OF Importance in diagnosis.
The purpose of the cough Is TO remove
some irritant substance from the
respiratory passages. 1t occurs from
inhalation of cold air II the respira.
tory passages are sensitive from dis
ease. In laryngitis, bronchitis and
pneumonia, cough Is very easily ex.
cited and occurs merely from accu-
mutation of mucus and inflammatory
product upon the irritated respiratory
mucous membrane. If one wishes TO
determine the character of the cough,
1t can easily be excited by pressing
upon the larynx with the thumb and
finger. The larynx should be pressed
from side to side and the pressure re-
moved the moment the horse COM
mences to cough. A painful cough oc-
ours in pleurisy. also In laryngitls,
bronchitis, and bronchial pneumonia.
After experience in this method Of
examination one can determine with a
considerable degree Of accuracy wheth.
er the lung contains normal amount
Of air or not. If, as in pneumonia,
air has been displaced by infiamma.
tory product occupying the air space,
or If fluid collects In the lower part
of the chest, the percussion sound be-
comes dull. If there Is an excess of
air in the chest cavity, the percus-
sion sound becomes abnormally loud
and clear. AS the air goes in and
out of the lungs n certain soft sound
is made which can be heard distinctly,
especially upon inspiration. This sound
is intensified by anything that accel-
crates the rate of respiration, such as
exercise. This soft, rustling sound Is
known as vesicular murmur, and signi-
fies that the lung contains air and Is
functionally active. The vesicular MUIR
mur is weakened when there is an in
flammatory infiltration Of the lung tis-
sue or when the lungs are compressed
by fluid in the chest cavity. It dis
appears when air is excluded by the
accumulation of inflammatory product.
as In pneumonia, and when the lungs
are compressed by fluid In the chest
cavity. The vascular murmur becomes
rough and harsh in the early stages
of Inflammation of the lungs, and this
is often the first sign of the beginning
of pneumonia.
praAnhtaI M,.ry,,nr
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31
Bronchial Murmur.

By applying the ear over the lower
breastbone somewhat harsh, blow
ing sound may be heard. This is
known as the bronchial murmur and
Is heard In normal condition near the
lower part Of the trachea and to q
limited extent in the anterior por-
tions of the lungs after sharp exercise.
When the bronchial murmur is heard
over other portions of the lungs, It
may signify that the lungs are more
or less solidified by disease and the
blowing bronchial murmur Is trans
mitted through this solid lung to the
ear from distant part Of the chest
The bronchial murmur in an abnormal
place signifies that there exists
pneumonia or that the lungs are com.
pressed by fluid In the chest cavity.
Additional sounds are heard In the
lungs in some diseased conditions. For
example, when fluid collects in the air
passages and the air Is forced through
II or Is caused to pass through tubes
containing secretlons or pus. Such
sounds are Of a gurgllng or bubbling
nature aud are known as mucous
rales. Mucous rales are spoken OF as
being large or small as they are dis
tlnct or indistinct, depending upon
the quantity of fluid that IL present
and the size of the tube In which this
sound is produced. Mucous rales oc-
cur in pneumonia after the solldified
parts begin to break down at the end
Of the disease. They occur In bron-
chitis and In tuberculosis, where there
Is ain excess of secretion.
Sometimes shrlll sound Is heard,
like the note Of whistle, fife, or flute.
This Is due TO dry construction Of
the bronchial tubes and 1t is heard In
chronic bronchitis and In tuberculo'
sis.
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31
Leather Pockets Much Worn.

Many smartly dressed women are
geuring leather pockets with their coat
ults. Both glace leather and chamols
Gather are used for the purpose. A
very stunning vest of purple leather Is
'ined with gNpy velvet.
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31

probable that he should estimate a
like increase over the next period of
Ave years. This data should be
worked over carefully so that an ac-
curate estimate of probable expenses
Jumped together over the five-year pc
rlod will result.
The next step consists in estimating
the income which may be relied upon
over the five-year period. This
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1917-05-31

ful. They are so simple that they can
be worn In the early morning with a
severely plain tailored suit and yet
they are so decorative that, with the
addition of single rose or a coearde
of beaded tulle, they are dressy enough
for the most ceremonlous occasion.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
RED CROSS PROTESTS
 INHUMANE WARFARE
International Committee Takes Action Against Sinking of Hospital Ships
 By German U-BOats.

Geneva, via Paris. April 23.-The International Committee of the Red Cross has sent a protest to the German government against the torpedoing of English hospital ships, specifically the Asturias. The committee declares that it agrees to Germany's right to halt and investigate ships that may appear suspicious, but it denies that ship may be destroyed under any circum- stances without warning.
 The committee has forwarded to Washington a list of American citi- zens taken off vessels sunk in the Atlantic who are still interned in Ger many. The list include men removed from the Voltair, Mount Temple, GeorEic, Esmeralda, Bulgarian and Czersk They are held in prison camps at Dulmen. Karlsruhe and Hav- leburg.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
CAI4ABAsH CLUB DIMES.
Thomas F. C1erl<in Reelected Presi
 dent of Organization.

Thomas F. Clerlxfn Reelected Presi-
 dent of Organization.
 Celebrating their fifth anniversary, members of the Calabash club gathered at Bardecks hall yesterday afternoon and enjoyed an excellent banquet and . post prandial program of exceptional merit. Mine Host Bar deck served an excellent menu which was thoroughly enjoyed.
 Following the repast there was an after-dinner program which included an address by the president. Past Grand Worthy President Albert F. Hall. one of the founders of the or ganization, gave review of its his tory. An exceptionally interesting talk was given by Francis Coles of Hartford, who delivered in vivid fashion his recent trip to Australia. MT. Coles spoke entertainingly of the country and it's people and also told of the part Australia is playing in the great war. There were remarks by other members.
 The club elected the following officers for the ensuing year:
 President-Thomas F. Clerkin.
 Secretary-William Wilson.
 Treasurer-Fred Bauer.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
CLOSING COLLEGES IN TURKEY.
to Quit Following Break
 in Relations.

Americans to Quit Following Break
 in Relations.
 Amsterdam, via London, April B. A despatch from Constantinople dated April 21 received by the Politische Correspondent says that Robert Col lege and Bible House and its branches are being closed and that the mem bers of the American colony are preparing to leave the Turkish, cap ital.
 Robert College was founded by the late Christopher R. Robert of this city. The college was incorporated under the laws of this state in 1864, it's corporate name being ''The Trus- tees of Robert College of Constant tnople." An trade was granted for it's establishment in 1863.
 Bible House is the headquarters of the Levant agency of the American Bible society and also is used as the business offices for the Turkey and Balkan missions of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
It Works! Try It Tells how to loosen a sore, tender corn % 1t lifts
 out without pain.

Good news spreads rapidly and druggists here are kept busy dis pensing freezone, the ether discovery of Cincinnati man, wh1chys,is said to loosen any corn so it lifts out with the fingers.
 Ask at any pharmacy for a quar- ter ounce of freezone, which will cost very little. but is said to be sufficient to rid ones feet of every hard or soft corn or callous.
 You apply just few drops on the tender. aching corn and instantly the soreness is relieved, and soon the corn is so shriveled that it lifts out with out pain. It is sticky substance which dries when applied and never infiames or even irritates the adjoin- ing tissue.
 This discovery will prevent thous- ands of deaths annually from lock- jaw and infection heretofore resulting from the suicidal habit of cutting corns.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
GAS TANK BLOWS UP.
One Man Missing and Property Loss
 is $2OO, O,OOO.


 is $2OO,OOO.
 New York, April 23.-With a re- verberation that shook Jersey City and Newark and other near by Jer- sey towns. gas tank on the plant of the Seabord By-Product Coke company, In Kearny, N. J., close by the Hackensack River on the Newark meadows, exploded at 8:30 last eve ming and huge tongues of flames shot forth, setting fire to four large build ings being erected there.
 In the ensuing fire the plant was completely wrecked, at loss of $200,- 900, and one man. believed to be the night watchman, named Brown, was burned to death. As far as is known he was the only one on the grounds. No cause for the explosion was ascer- tained, but the Jersey City police took into custody German river worker who had been seen, they were told, on the river near the plant an hour be- fore the explosion.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
CALAIS BOMBARDED

German Destroyers Hurl 100 Shells at
 Western Terminal of Railroad Sup
 plying Armies in Northern France.
 Calais, France, via Paris, April 23. German torpedo boat destroyers Saturday fired 100 shells in the re- zion of Calais. Some civilians were killed. Twelve. persons were slightly wounded.
 Calais is the western terminal of the main railroad artery which sup plies the British armies on the Lens Arras battle front in northwestern France. The town lies directly op- posite the British channel port of Dover, near which place five Ger man destroyers attempted 8 raid on British shipping Friday night, with the result that two German ships, and possibly three, were sunk by British patrol vessels.
 It has been suggested that the ob- ject of the Teuton naval raid was to interrupt the voyage of Premier Lloyd George across the channel from the continent, where he had been il, conference with the French and Ital- ian prime ministers.
 It is possible that the German de- stroyers, which escaped in the dark ness from the Dover battle, were the vessels which bombarded Calais, di- recting their shells on the town while skirting the coast on their return to the naval bases at Zeebrugge or Ant werp.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
CONTOIS-LIE3LER.

St. Mary's church will be tl,eescene of a pretty wedding at 8 o'clock to- morrow morning, when Miss Mar garet Liebler of Main street will be- come the bride of Omar Contois. An- thony Contois, a brother of the groom, will be best man and Miss Margaret Conlon will be bridesmaid. Following the ceremony, wedding breakfast will be served at the Hotel Taft in New Haven and after Q we'd ding trip the couple will reside on Hartford avenue.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
CONSISTENCY OF
 J. s. QUESTIONED l
Mexican Paper Comments on Presidents Embargo on Arms

Mexico City, April 23.-The Excel sior. one of the leading Mexican pa- pers, discussing editorially reports from the United States that America Is suspicious of Mexicos attitude in the present crisis, asserts that Mexican neutrality will be maintained. It adds:
 There is not much on which these suspicious are based which has not been fostered by the American press and government. One reason for this. without going further, is the embargo on arms against Mexico maintained in spite of the reception of our ambassa- dor. The American government offers all nations a chance to buy the arms which it manufacturers in vast quan- titles except two, Germany and Mexico. It is easy to understand the attitude now against Germany, but what about Mexico
 What can we say to this and how interpret it {? When the president-elect, because of the, great interest in the subject, referred to it in his speech to congress, the American press clam ored that the speech contained only painful words. Why not, if the Mexi- can people have only painful feelings over the relations between the two countries? Shall we answer the at- tack mentioned only with words sweet as fruit in season? The explanation of our state of mind should be sought by the United States in its conduct toward us. We do not equivocate and the United States should not"
 A bazar was held last night for the benefit of disabled Mexican soldiers and widows The German minister, Won Eckhardt, contributed 5000 pesos and his wife 15O. Other members of the diplomatic corps, including United States Ambassador Fletcher, also contributed but the gifts were over shndowed by that of Won Eckhardt, which was over one-third of the total received from the bazaar.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
NEW OFFICE FOR QUIGLEY

New Britain Mayor Is Chairman of
 Connecticut Executive Committee
 of Young Mems Republican League.
 Especial to the Herald.)
 Chicago. April 23.-It was an- nounced today that George A. Quig- ley, mayor of New Britain, Conn.,, had been chosen chairman of the Connec- ticut executive committee of the Ma tional Young Mems Republican league, an organization which embraces every state in the union. Other New Eng land state chairman are: Maine, Ru- pert H. Baxter; New Hampshire, F. w. Hartford; Vermont, Walter s. Fen ton; Massachusetts, Sinclair Weeks: Rhode Island, Frank J. Clinton. Lin William Price of Illinois is national president of the league.
 Plans for the congressional and senatorial campaign of 1918 and the presidential campaign of 1920 are maturing. \ The object of the league, as expressedNin it's constitution, is as follows: ''To further and establish among the people of our nation, through organization and propaganda work, the principles of republicanisn. which have so essentially contributed to our welfare, our security and our peaceful progress as a nation ,and as a people,
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
TO DEDICATE CHURCH.
Edificc of St. John the Evangelist
 Parish Ready, for Occupancy.

v
 Next Sunday morning at 10 o'clock. the new church of St. John the Evangelist on Newington road will be formally dedicated. Rt. Rev. John J. Milan of Hartford diocese presiding at the exercises. Rev. Lucyan Bo1now- ski, pastor of the Church of the sa- cred Heart, will celebrate 8 high mass at 1O:3O o'clock and Rev. Maurice McAuliffe of St. Thomas seminary will preach the dedication sermon.
 In the evening at 7:30 o'clock sol- emn high vespers will be sung. and Rev. Edward Hayes, a former local resident and now connected with St. Augustine's church in Bridgeport, will deliver the sermon. Priests from va rious parts of the state will he in at tendance at the services.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
JUNIOR NAVAL RESERVE PLANS.

New York, April 23.-More than 1000 cadets of the United States jun for naval reserve are expected this summer at Camp Dewey, near New London, Conn.,, it was announced at national headquarters here today. Ad- ditional cutters have been ordered. If war conditions permit it was said the boys will make trips of inspection on submarines and submarine destroyers.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
nArGHTERs OF 1s1: MEET.

Washington, April 23.-The national society, United States Daughters of 1872, opened its annual council meet ing here today. The principal busi- ness will be the election of officers to- morrow.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
AMERICANS RIGHT
 WHERE BATTLE Is
Payette Squadron Always Anz-
 iouS for Smell of Powder

From Staff Correspondent of the Associated Press Grand Headquarters With the British Army on the French Front. April 23.-The disappearance. after an aerial engagement, of Ser geant James R. MAcConnell, the Am- erfcan aviator, calls attention once more to the brilliant work of the La Fayette squadron composed entirely of American volunteers, except the two French officers in charge, Captain Georges Thenault and Lieut.. de Lage DeMeux.
 Since it's formation last year the squadron, whose official designation is 'N.124", has undergone some changes of personnel. The new men, however, are living well up to the traditions of those who have passed through it's ranks. some of whom have made the "great sacrince'' for France in return for the help she gave to America dur ing the revolution, while others have retired because of wounds or injuries.
 The young Americans have won not only the adpiration of their French comrades, but also the wholesome re- spect of the German airmen opposed to them. Up to Gate at least thirty enemy war machines are known to have fallen victims to the American squadron and it Is probable more have been brought down over the German lines, but without certain proof of their destruction no credit Is given.
 The members of the corps live to- gether in the cantonments. In fact. the combination is known as the ''winged club"
 Many of the members have been decorated with medals and crosses for their exploits in Alsace, around Ver- dun and on the Somme. Their desire to be in the midst of the hottest fight ing is generally gratified and the squadron is always to be found in the of the greatest activity.
New Britain herald., 1917-04-23
PILLOW CASES 42x36 and 45x36, from 18c to 38c Each.

Some very dainty effects in Georgette Crepe Waists, have just arrived. At $500 each.