davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

This is certainly a unique way of
making a lace dancing frock, but SO
full is the satin foundation skirt, and
so airy the folds Of lace in the f1ounc-
ing, that the divided effect is not as
striking as one might imagine from
the description.
Draperies Tucked Up At The Back.
Another individual dancing frock
of the summer has position drapery.
or a tucked up effect at the back of
the hips-almost a hustle effect, to be
sure! The drapery and a wide.
swathed girdle are of silver thread
brocaded crepe in melon pink shade.
Under the drapery is a short dancing
skirt of pink and silver tissue and
facings Of the shimmering tissue are
set in each Of the four loops of the
drapery. Just two wisps. of flesh pink
chiffon flung v e the shoulders and
caught into the girdle-that's the bod
ice! 1t is enough to say of this bodice
that it will probably be cool on sum
mer nights.
A restaurant dinner-dance gown is
shown in the model Of kings blue chit
fon. yelled with silk net in the same
shade, embroidered with white beads
and weighted with silver fringe. The
blue frock Is draped I'VE a foundation
of kings blue satin and the smart din
ner" hat for restaurant wear is of
silver and gold tissue put together
with black velvet cordings, with a
crown trimming Of silver leaves.
The June Wedding Gown Becomes A
49, Dance Frock.
The average bridal gown is such an
impressive affair that it is very un-'
comfortable to dance in-one simply
cannot feel free and easy in 1t, or
yield to the spirit of the dance. A
handsome wedding gown costs a deal
Of money and few girls "a afford, for
the sake Of sentiment, to put away
their bridal robes in lavender as heir
looms for their grandchildren. Soon
err or later the costume is remodeled
into an evening or dinner frock, and
the reconstruction had far better be
accomplished Immediately. The long,
close sleeves may be removed and
floating wing sleeves achieved with
part of the tulle veil. The train can
be partly cut away and Topped up
so that it may be easily lifted for
dancing; and the bodice may be made
more decollete than would be con-
sidered correct for a bride on her
wedding occasion.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

ored silk net falling quite to the knee
and buttoned straight down the front
with string colored crochet buttons.
Under it is a narrow foundation slip
of Chinese blue crepe de chine. This
couturier is also making very long
coats of net, lace or organdy which
are worn over slips Of satin or crepe
de chine; the smock banded at the
edge with the silk fabric. A notable
feature of these models is the fitted
foundation of silk which defines the
figure neatly under the transparent,
loosely hanging smock.
The smock- blouses just described
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

hold it down in fiat lines over the
hips. Jenny has materially increased
the vogue of such smocks by bring
ing out model after model each more
captivating than the last. These
smock-blouses are usually of chiffon,
ornamented with bands n motifs
of bead trimming and some of the
color combinations are indescribably
beautiful. For example one smock
is of Nile green chiffon with framing
of blue chiffon embroidered in silver
threads, the blue chiffon joined to the
green under lines Of turquoise beads.
A silver girdle of the type shown in
one of the illustrations, finishes the
blouse. By "framing''-above re-
ferred to, the c%outurier means out
lining a blouse with trimming or con-
trasting material. There is, for in
stance, the trimming band around the
lower edge of the garment and the
bands or cuffs that edge the sleeve. A
circular, square or V shaped band
outlines the neck, according to the
way it Is cut, and extensions from
this band run down around the arm
holes. framing" them and the neck
opening with the contrasting trim
ming. This is a very effective way of
finishing a smock- blouse, and the
framing material may be set i with
hemstitching If extra daintiness is de-
sired.
A woman who has made herself sew
eral Of these dressy smocks for wear
with separate skirts. one skirt of white
wash satin and the other Of black tat
feta, has used the framing idea with
excellent success. A white chiffon
smock is framed with white satin
and has a girdle: Of crystal beads
this for wear with the white skirt. A
black chiffon smock is framed witt
jet band trimming, and there is 8
smock of electric blue chiffon witt
bands Of white milk bead trimming
and a smock Of cerise chiffon witt
framing of the same chiffon used ii
double thickness and hemstitched a
the Joining edge. To go back IL
Jenny's smock-blouses, must no
forget q stunning affair OF string col,
LIE ~ LL AL
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

idea in it's drapery; and the contrast
of black and white is adroitly man
aged. Only a French couturier could
have achieved this extremely simple
yet matchlessly distinguished gown
which is built of soft, rich satin. the
white a little lighter in weight than
the black satin which forms the skirt
and train. There is first, an ankle
length skirt of black satin, slightly
longer at the back than at the front.
Over this drops a straight tunic of
white satin. draped into the figure
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

yelled silk costumes are In the minor7
ity. Perhaps because of this, however,
frocks of other materials than lace,
stand out with a difference that makes
for distinction. But the lace dancing
frocks are very lovely-and oh so
becoming! The woman does not live,
no matter what her age, who does
not look better for the wearing Of a
lace evening frock. Lace brings out
the freshness and bloom of youth, and
adds grace and charm to old age. A
notable lace gown for the matron,
pictured on today's page, owe its dis
tinction to the unusual color scheme
pearl gray and cream. The model
is so simple in construction that 1t
could almost be managed at home,
yet this gown came from a very i'm
portant house-Worth, no less. The
gray satin skirt falls to the ankle and
the satin bodice rises only to the bust
where the satin is attached to a yoke
of gray silk net. Over this pearl
gray foundation is draped cream en-
broidered white silk net, draped bod
ice and pleated net skirt being Joined
by an inserted belt of the lace SO
that the lace frock is all in piece.
Under the lace belt Is a strip Of plain
net, the two strips forming a casing.
Through this casing is run gray vel
vet ribbon, ending in a tailored bow
at front and back; and by means OF
the casing and ribbon the frock may
be drawn in to fit the figure trinity
The lace flouncing which forms the
tunic Is sloped and mitred at each
side. and a short train of lace is thus
made on each side of the skirt.
Trouser Skirts Even On Evening
Gowns.
Since woman has been emancipatec
by preparedness occupations and may
now wear trousered garb whenever
and wherever she wants to, she i.
showing her new independence by al
sorts of bifurcated costumes. Ever
the evening gown Is not escaping tn,
craze for trouser effects. A lace dane.
frock just completed for a young so
ciety girl has a broad sash-end of rib
bon falling at the center front of TIL,
skirt, and another sash-end at TIL,
center back. The ends are Joined un,
der the skirt, which is of satin will
a pulled, turned-under hem in Turk
ish style.
The lace %flouncing which covers tn,
skirt divides at front and back, fall
ing at either side Of the sash-ends
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18
KNITTING STANDS FOR THE
PORCH.

Even more convenient than a big
knitting bag. is knitting stand which
may stand beside one on porch or lawn
and be picked up and carried very
easily The deep bag Of cretonne is
suspended in q light wooden frame
hinged at the center and attached to
folding legs like the legs OF camp
stool. The bag has two compartments
and cord handles are attached to the
frame for easy carrying.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18
chainstitching In SILK a Favored Trimming

ACROLL designs in chainstitching
are used over entire bcdices and
In panel effects IN the skirts Of
summer frocks. the stitching be-
ing done usually in color on a white
ground. Cotton crepons chainstitched
in Natter blue. flesh pink or pale
corncolor are seen in Paris for mid
summer wear, and chainstitching in
scroll or eramage effects is smarter
than straight rows Of the stitching.
The chainstitching should be- done on
the material before the costume is
made up, the machine needle follow
ing a stamped or penci1ed; pattern, and
OF course. the chainstitch must be
made with silk--a cheap thread would
result In bad puckering of the fabric
should the frock be washed. or even
BE- caught out IN u summer fog or
mist. For the same reason. 1t is al
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

ion makes no stipulations about its
silhouette, as long as it strikes the
note of individuality and is a picture
may select what is becoming to her
own figure and her general style and
need not make herself into a carica-
ture in order to look up to date.
The Grecian type has favor and
some of the most distinguished gowns
of the season are of this type. Pic
tured, is a black and white satin din
ner gown which carries out the Greek
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

~HOUGH the average woman, at
this season, is not concerned as
0 much about evening frocks as
- she is about sport clothes, poor
indeed-in prospect of summer
diversions she who finds no neces'
sity for planning at least one or two
pretty evening costumes. Any two
weeks vacation sojourn at a summer
hotel will call for a dancing frock or
two; nc weekend visit will be ade-
quately provided for unless a charm
ing dance frock is tucked into trunk
or suitcase, and, Of course, if one is
planning a long stay of several weeks
or a month anywhere, some dinner
and dance gowns will be absolutely
Indispensable.
The woman of fashion, or as the
French express it, the mondaine, takes
her summer evening dresses as a mat
ter of course. Just so many must
be supplied for her wardrobe-and
very likely two or three supplement
tary gowns will be added by mid
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

ways best to stitch up seams with silk
thread. and to insist upon silk sewing
in ready-made frocks. The cost of
silk thread over a cheap substitute is
so trifing that there is no excuse for
the economy (?) either in the home
sewing room o r the manufacturer's
work ROOM.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

which sometimes utterly ruin costly
Oriental rugs in a few weeks in sdch
places. Spread newspapers on the
floor. place a rug On the papers and
cover with another layer of the papers,
sprinkling the paper copiously with
~turpentine. This cannot harm the
rugs in the least. Add another rug.
then more papers and more turpen-
tine, until all the rugs are in place.
Roll up the rugs and papers over a
wooden stick, and wrap newspapers
securely around the roll.
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

PACKING RUGS FOR STORAGE.
TT HEN u g are to sojourp
through a summer at any
wv storage place regular cold
W. storage establishment except
ed-some precaution should be taken
against the depredations OF moths
Grand Forks herald. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1916-1955, 1917-07-18

honeycomb printed wolfe with smock-
blouse over a separate skirt of the ma
terial. The heavy girdle of beads and
dull silver keeps the fluffy fabric in
trim lines.
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19


WASHINGTON, Jan. 1S.-Blame for
delay in mobilizing the national guard
for border service was placed squarely
on the war department today by Major
General John f. Organ. commanding
the New York division of the state
forces, tcstifyine before the senate
sub -committe on universal service.
Adjutant General Louis w. Stotesbury
of New York and Captain James T.
Burns Of the Third Illinois infantry
joined in defending the guard.
All three officers agreed in favor
ing universal service legislation, al
though they differed as to methods.
General Organ outlined plan under
which boys would be required in their
nineteenth year to elect the course of
service they preferred, whether in the
regular army, national guard or in
some civil capacity. In common with
the other two officers, he declared that
complete liberalization of the state
troops must be effected to insure eff
cient service.
Generals Organ and Stotesbury de-
clared the report of the national guard
mobilization prepared by the national
bureau was unfair General O'Ryan
said the action was due to "conserva-
tion prejudice and ignorance of real
conditions"
THE national guard was treated by
the war department as volunteer
force, not under the statement con-
templated in the national defense act.
said General Stotesbury
While war department regulation.
may have been to blame TO some ex.
tent" Senator Chamberlain interiect
ed, congress also was to blame, fol
recommendations Of the department fol
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19
IRepubIican A. P. Leased Wirej


RIO JANEIRO, Jan. 1S.-It is con-
sidereG almost certain here that the
German sea raider which has been
creating havoc among entente ship
ping in the South Atlantic is the
Moewe the German armed raider
which captured the Appam and sank
numerous entente ships in Atlantic
waters a year ago.
The American consul at Pernam
huco cabled the embassy here, con-
firming the landing of several Amer
leans from vessels which fell victim
to the raider He added that no
American ships had been sunk by
the German craft, and that all the
American sailors landed were men
from the crews of foreign vessels.
According to reports from an
authoritative source, the Moewe is
understood to tave sailed from Kiel
under the Danish flag. carrying a
cargo of hay on the bridge in order
to conceal her armament. When
last seen the Moewe was painted
black with white markings. Her
armament included four torpedo
tubes in service and several tubes III
reserve She is believed to have car
ried a mine laying apparatus.
Tho raider also carried large
number cf auxiliary plates. which
would permit her commander to
change the appearance of the bridge
at Will. In addition. she had col
lapsible tunnels.
TIE vessel now believed to be the
Moewe was repainted several times,
and under the last coat of paint
were observed traces of the Danish
flag which had been painted on the
hull.
AS yet there is no news of the
British steamer Yarrowdale, which.
under command of German officers,
was reported yesterday to be. pro-
cecding for port with shipwrecked
crews aboard. The steamer Hudson
Maru, which arrived from Pernam-
huco with survivors aboard. will re-
Continued on Page Two
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19
NAME COUNSEL
To CARRY ON
LEAK PROBE

WASHINGTON, Jan. 1S.-Shermar
l.. Whipple of Boston, Democrat and q
noted trial lawyer, was invited tonight
My the house rules committee to act as
counsel in the peace note leak inves-
tigation, which, it now appears, will ex-
tend deeply into Wall Street stock
manipulations
From authoritative sources there
were intimations that the Boston at
torney had been consulted and was eX-
pected to undertake the task.
Further public hearings in the in
quiry were postponed until Monday to
give counsel and the committee time to
prepare for the future proceedings
They plan to call as the first witness
Mrs. Ruth Thomason Visconti, the wo-
man who Thomas w. Lawson says told
him Secretary Tumulty and W. w
Price Washington newspaper man.
were beneficiaries or the alleged leak
She will be followed by a score of other
witnesses, including the men mentioned
in the inquiry and a number of prom
inent New York financiers.
The selection of Mr.. W-hipple fol-
lowed a bitter fight of several hours
among Democrats of the committee in
which Postmaster General Burleson,
Senator Davis and Majority Leader
Kitchin participated. Several of the
Democrats, including Chairman Henry,
urged Samuel Untermyer as counsel
despite attacks against such a course
from both sides of the house yester-
day. Mr. Burleson, often administra :
ton spokesman at the capitol. is un-
derstood to have been there to advocate
Untermyer
One of the objections against Mr..
Untermyer was that Lawson had dis
cussed the case with him and was
known to want an investigation of the
stock exchange with Untcrmyer in
charge.
Democratic members of the commit
tee struggled with the problem for
more than twenty four hours, cxclud-
ing Republican members from their
conferences. Representatives Campbell
and Lenroot, ranking Republican com
mitteemen, learned of the efforts to
choose Untermyer, and late this after
noon issued a statement assailing the
Democrats. The statement. which
charged the Democrats with attempt
ing to choose a partisan counsel had
the effect of ending the differences.
The Republicans were invited into
the conference at four o'clock at which
time Mr.. Whipple was suggested. They
were told to return at five O'clock. In
the meantime, Mr.. Campbell consulted
Senator Weeks of Massachusetts,
against whom Mr.. Whipple made a
race for the senate, as to Whipple's S
qualifications. Senator Weeks en-
dorsement was so strong that the Re-
publican members made no further in
JURY and. returning to the committee
room. approved the selection.
Agitation to broaden the inquiry still
further by a new resolution which
specifically would direct thorough in
vestigation of the stock exchange with
a view to reform legislation, caused
much discussion in the Democratic
conference After the selection of Mr.
Whpple. however, Democratic leaders
said that the inquiry would proceed
along lines already outlined
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19
RUNAN|ANS AND
RUSSIANS HAVE
CHECKED ENEMY
Republican A. p. Leased Wire1

The Associated Press summarizes
yesterdays activities in the European
war as follows:
The advance of the Teutonic allies
in Rumania apparently has been
brought to standstill for the time be-
ing at least, by the reinforced Rus
slams and Rumanians. From Berlin
the only successes reported for the in
vaders were gained through a surprise
attack between the Suchitza and Putna
valleys. where the army of Archdule
Joseph captured 231 men from a hostile
position, and south of the Otuz road
where strong Russian attack was re-
pulsed. On the other hand the Ru-
manians put down German attack
south of Monestar- Kashinul, on the
kasino river. and southeast of Pralea
surrounded German position and cap
tured large number of men and four
machine guns. The Russians are she'll
ing Tultcha and Isakcha, across the
Danube in Dobrudja, while the Bull
garian guns are active against hostile
positions and military positions near
Galitz and Isakcha.
On the Russian front and in Galicia
there has been violent artillery activity
and minor fights. Near Smorgop the
Russians have carried out successful
raids and sapping operations, accord
ing to Petrograd In the region of
krashina a Russian force entered a
German position but later was driven
out
The British in France have extended
further their gains of Wednesday near
Beaucourt- -Sur-Ancre. The French
and Germans in the Vosges mountains
CONTINUED on Page Two)
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19
Republican A. P. Leased Wire1


SAN FRANCISCO, Jan. 1S.-That
President Wilson's life was threatened
bv an anarchistic organization known
rs the .'blasters." of which Thomas J
Mooney, on trial here for murder, was
a leader will be shown by evidence to
be presented in MONEYS trial, AS
sistan. District Attorney Edward A.
Cunha declared today in superior
court in his opening address to the
Jury.
Il will prove" said Cunha, that
these men plotted revolution against
the government. | will prove that they
said in an edition of THE Blast" the
weathercock in the White house had
better watch out. Suppression of the
voice of discomfort leads to assassi-
nation
Beginning his address in court,
Cunha outlined the history Of the
bomb explosion here last July in
which ten persons lost their lives and
in which it is charged Mooney had a
part.
Il will show a motive for Mooney S
participation in this crime and that
he advised and encouraged it," said
Cunha. 81 will prove that prior to
January, 1916, Mooney, Alexander
Berkman. Miss NJ. E. Fitzgerald and
others entered into a conspiracy to
bring about an uprising against prop
erty owners, the destruction of pri-
vate property and that they called
themselves the Blasters' and publicly
announced in The Blast the objects
Of their conspiracy l will connect
Mooney with this conspiracy by let
ters in his own writing and by arti-
cles he wrote in The Blast l will
show that they planned to create a
prejudice against and to betray the
American Federation of Labor. will
show that before the parade Mooney
declared preparedness must be thrown
Arizona republican., 1917-01-19
TAT REPLIES
T0CR|T|C|SM5
OF ROOSEVELT
Republican A. p. Leased Wire1

Republican A. p. Leased Wire1
PITTSBURG, Jan. 1S.-Former
President William H. Taft, speaking
at dinner of the League to Enforce
Peace here tonight, replied to criti-
cisms of the organization made by
Theodore Roosevelt. He declared that
with the former president urging it on
one side and William Jennings Bryan
on the other, the scheme is more likely
to be right than if the league had been
supported by either.
Theodore Roosevelt would have
been more useful in testing the pro-
posals of the league if he had found
out what it was first" Mr.. Taft said.
He pointed out that Colonel RooSe-
welt assumed that the league proposed
that the recommendations of compro-
mise shall be enforced by the organi
zation. which the speaker declared was
wrong. Mr. Taft said that members
of the league believe that it will make
a long step forward if it succeeds in
securing a world agreement by which
hearings of the irritating issue may be
had before war begins. 1t is confident
that in most cases a war thus delayed
will never come
Messages from neutral European
nations endorsing the objects of the
league were read.
Letters from Switzerland Spain and
Denmark, in answer to inquiries from
Theodore Marburg, chairman of the
committee on foreign organizations of
the League to Enforce Peace, were
read. The favorable answers from the
neutral nations follow closely upon the
reply of the entente allies to Presi-
dent Wilson in which ten of the four
teen countries at war jointly declared:
They associated themselves, with
all their hopes, with the project for
the creation of league of nations to
insure peace and justice throughout
the world"
DR.. Hoffman, head of the political
department of Switzerland in behalf
of his government. indorsed the eff
, forts of the league and said that
/ Switzerland is well placed to appre-
ciate the work of which the United
States has taken the initiative because.
surrounded on all sides by war. peopled
by the race and inheriting the language
| and culture of three among the COM
| batant nations, she is better able than
any other country to realize that war
is contrary to the superior interest of
civilization
If, then, at the conclusion of peace,
the occasion should arise" said DR..
Hoffman, for US to unite our efforts
to yours, We will not fail to do so. and
will be happy to contribute toward
rendering peace more secure when re-
established"
Juan Riano, ambassador from Spain.
sent letter inclosing cablegram
from Amalia Gimeno, minister of for
eign affairs of Spain, who said Spain
Is following with keen sympathy the
idea of establishing an international
peace league and will lend its con-
c"ul Sc 10 realization of such a hu-
manitarian and lofty project"
ERIC Scavinous, minister of foreign
affairs Tor Denmark. wrote that the
CONTINUED on Page Tvo)