davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
SLIGHT ITALIAN SETBACK.
Although in General the Teuton Attack
Was Repulsed.

Italian Headquarters, Wednesday. Dec.
6 tBy Associated Pressl. Furious en-
emy attacks on the Osago plateau have
been repulsed witk heavy losses. except
in the northeastern sector. where. after
a desperate struggle, the enemy succeed
ed in occupying some advanced lines.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
SEVENTEEN SHIPS SUNK.
British Loss Last Week was Wen Up to
the Average.

London. Dec. 6.-Sixteen British mer-
chantmen cf more than 1850 tons we're
sunk by mines or submarines IN the past
week. according to the admiralty state
meut lass night One vessel under $40
tons and four fishing vessels also were
sunk.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
We savinEs conferenee canea.

F. 4. Howland. ss director Of the war
savings campaign. for Vermont. has
called his county chairmen together for
Friday evening in Montpelier 10 20 over
the campaign and 20 make arrangements.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
HEAR so DEAD.
According to Reports of Explosion Re-
ceived in Truro, N. S.

Truro, n. s., Dec. 6.-The loss of life
in the Halifax explosion is placed at 80,
according to reports received here. 1t is
also understood that the number of in
jured is correspondingly large.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
CALLS STATEMENT SHAMEFUL
That Rumania Has Proposed Armistict
to the Teutons.

London, Dec. 6.-Quoting an Austrian
official statement concerning a Ruma-
nian proposal for the negotiation Of an
armistice. a British official announce
ment last night said:
There Is no truth whatever in this
shameful statement"
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
GRANITEvILLE

The odd ladies dance Of Victor lodge.
to have been given Friday night. has
been postponed on account Of the death
u one Of the odd Ladies.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
DUNKIRK BOMBED.
Two Civilians Were Killed BY German
Air Raiders.

Paris, Dec. 6-The official communi-
cation issued by the war Office last night
said:
Last night Dunkirk was bombed by
enemy airplanes; two civilians were
killed. -
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
Hearing for Commitment to State Hos
pitaL

In probate court az Montpelier this
afternoon. a hearing occurred upon the
petition brought for the commitment ~
Sarah b. Chsttcrton II Warren 90 the
state hospital al the expense of the state.
T. developed st the hearing that Eve
Years ago Mrs Chattcrton had shcu, 81
o0o. bat that her means are nearly OF
quite gone nov.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06
American Transport is Said to Have
Been in HarbOr at the Time but No
Definite Information is Known
CREWS OF MANY OTHER SHIPS
ARE REPORTED KILLED
Censor Has Taken Charge of All Wire
Service Out of Halifax and Informa-
ton at Present is Meagre

Halifax N S. via Havana Dec 6-Hundreds of persons
killed of others injured and half the city ruins
explosion munton ship in the harbor to-
day. 1t is estimated property loss will the mil
lions. The north end of the city is in flames
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06

ST. john b. Dec 6It stated positively here that there
transports the habor when the explosion occurred
Nothing their fate whether they filled
with troops occupied only by crews
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06

john N b. Dec Ga large part of Halifax is in flames fol-
lowing explosion the haror this morning Two vessels one
with including high explosives
coded the moment of the explosion fierce storm
sweeping the habor and supposed that the collision due
to this.
The munitions ship blown said to have been American
harbor suffered severely and the of
said been killed 1t reported that trans
port the time but nothing definite concerning
this could be learned.
here that the has taken control Of all
wires at Halifax.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1917-12-06

Amherst N. S. Dec. GA section of Halifax is fire the
result of collision between steamships American
which contained ammunition The explosion which occurred
affected the ynamos of the telegraph companies that wire
muncaons between Halifax and outside points severed
Rockingham where the explosion occurred suburban village
about Halifax. It situated the west
shore of the Bedford basn continuation of Halifax harbor
Hundreds buildings destroyed damaged
lives believed have been lost and sections the city
The the ships the collision all killed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Josephine Waistline
With Angel Sleeves

When Cabot features a new thing it is bound
to be significant and, therefore, when she puts
a modified angel sleeve In the same gown with
IN extreme Josephine waistlne, she is produc-
ing something that will be widely copied and
worn by women of the most Understandable
convictions.
AS for the rest of the Cabot collection, the
only word that can describe it is Callot. The
trousers are lacking and the Oriental effect
is magnifed, especially in one gown that seems
to have been made on the impulse of the mo-
ment in the same manner employed by the hero
inc of Belasco's new play, "Polly With a
Past" In this, the actress catches up yards
of orange colored velvet in an interior dec
orators room winds it about her figure, and
then presents herself as a good imitation Of
fascinating French lady who treads the prim-
rose path.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
All New French Gowns Have Straight Lines

ruled without any question until the uplifted
drapery Of the modified hustle appeared and
the fiat front is considered an essential
in all good gowns. This leaves the sides as
the only part of the frock where the line can
be broken into an agreeable bit of drapery
The pannier pocket, which is nothing but a
deep cash in the material, outlined with braid
in some attractive color, therefore appears on
new models in blue serge, beige jersey cloth
and dull red velveteen. By the way, each of
these fabrics and colors has a host of followers
this autumn, and the expert believes that the
foundation of clothes is built up on these three
cornerstones.
The idea of a corselet or cuirass Of one
material and sleeves of another has gained
such Roadway in the last few weeks that
women sometimes look like jockeys The de-
signers have even gone so far as to put red
satin sleeves into dark blue corselets and plaid
sleeves into black velveteen bodces. Even
when the color schemes do not oppose each
other the fabrics are not identical.
Satin is the chief standby for these separate
sleeves when the gown is to give service, and
chiffon, silk net and Georgette are used when
the gown is for formal afternoon occasions
or informal theatre parties and restaurant
dinners.
The long sleeve is the thing. Don't fail to
remember that. You need not bare your arms
TO the public gaze at any hour of the day or
evening II you do not care to do SO.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
One Designers
Daring Novelty

This season, however, one designer took il
into his head to produce a silhouette that had
nothing in common with any other silhouette
launched for the season bits. The narrow
skirt which Paris has adopted since last
March was exaggerated into one that was
pulled upward and backward until it became
as tight as the wrappings of mummy. The
hustle was placed at the end of the spine, but
it was pliable, graceful hustle, made Of soft
materials in many loopings.
In the interviews with those who make gar.
ments for the wholesale trade there was ur
doubted satisfaction expressed in the fact that
there was something new and startling to offer
to the trade, and although few of the men in
the industry of making clothes considered the
hustle attractive or artistic, they waived their
own feelings because it was necessary for the
trade to make money to keep its workers
going.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

TT is not possible to divide the new gowns
into strongly differing sections. No de-
- signer has taken period and copied her
gowns from it with certainty and exactitude.
All Of the French and American workers have
jumbed their history in way that would
give the seeker after truth brainstorm.
II is well for the public at large that the de-
signers do not stick too closely to period clothes
When the decorators insist that one cannot
have a curtain, vase or a cushion in room
that Is drawn from a certain period, we get
beautiful pieces Of interior decorative work
which should be in a museum, but which have
little relationship to an intimate home life
II is wise for every woman TO learn, and
il would be we'll if one could only teach the ar
lists and decorators the same thing, that ex-
hibition work is one thing. but the kind Of work
that one must live with is another. We can go
TO museums or department shops and see
period rooms and period dress, but human nat
ure resents the thought Of having such limited
environment In which TO spend ones waking
and sleeping hours. Therefore, we greet with
pleasure the fact that vastly different periods
Of history have been dipped into for the new
clothes; but anachronism is rife.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Growing Vogue of the
Flowing Sleeve

Probably the medieval sleeve will receive
more attention from American women than the
First Empire waistline. This fact is increas-
ingly evident in the exhibitions Of American
designed gowns, which have obviously taken
the medieval sleeve as the chief feature.
An entire chapter of dress could be written
concerning this sleeve. It has played most his
toric part in the evolution of fashion through
out the centuries. Like the comets Of the solar
system it comes in and out of the suns glare
at intervals and can never be counted as lost.
America was quite well aware that some
type of long, flowing sleeve would reappear
this autumn. II was foreshadowed by the vo-
luminous tulle sleeves that reached to the wrist
and hung downward in points Every cable
from Paris insisted upon the preference shown
by the French women for gowns that did not
expose the arms, even though they were half
low at the neck. Fantastic gowns in this coun-
try, designed for the foOtlights, brought good
deal Of attention TO themselves by the i'm
mensity Of their sleeves, but these were usually
fashioned on some antique Chinese idea, for
their square outline was held in place by Chi
nese tassels and jade bracelets.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

sleeves Of chiffon and crystals are caught in
at the wrists and are transparent.
Jenny, however. is not the only one VINO
uses panels in whatever way they can be ac-
commodated to the human figure. Doeuillet
puts them on one-piece frocks and gathers them
together at the waist under a grdle of some
ornate, glowing fabric.
Nine Paquin makes an evening gown that
is Just two panels over a tight sheathlike skirt,
and the two are held in at the waistline by
brilliantly colored sash that somewhat initiates
the American hustle silhouette by resolving it
self into bow and ends at the side.
Premet who has turned out such unusually
good gowns this year, assemblies her flying
panels under a sash of Chinese or japanese en-
broidery and arranges it in big looped bow
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

4 LII THE new French gowns insist upon
~ the straight line. The only time it is
- broken is when a gorgeous bit of rib
bon is taken and built into sash with huge
bow at the left of the back.
The American dressmakers, however, espe
cially those who deal in high priced, ready
to-wear costumes, have not gone in whole
heartedly for the straight line-that is, they
have not eliminated that overworked sihou-
cite of last year, which showed the slashed
hip drapery, which was called a pannier
pocket.
France sent out this silhouette little after
Christmas, and the Americans were in grave
doubt as to whether it would be accepted by
this continent. It's trouble was that it was
overaccepted. 1t became one of those extraor-
dinarily popular fashions from which there
was seemingly no escape.
But America, like France. has fashion of
letting an idea die and then reviving it in a
slight degree This is what has been done
with the pannier pocket frock.
The reason for its widespread and continued
acceptance is its admirable silhouette Every
woman cannot wear the chemise frock. She
needs some lift of the material into a kind
of drapery at or below the hip line Her
length of figure must be broken somewhere
between the shoulder and the shoe top 1t is
not possible 70 do this above the waist, so she
demands that it be done below. The fat back
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

out with goodly arrangement of small hooks
and invisible eyes, or with small loops and the
small pearl buttons that come especially for
that purpose and that are almost always found
on French blouses at the collar and cuff clos
ing. However, if you wear your hair low at
the neck it is almost sure to catch on these
wee buttons, and nothing is more untidy than
bits of hair caught on a collar fastening.
Many women whose wardrobes consist
mainly of collaress frocks have suddenly
become interested in the return of collars,
and they are the ones who venture forth
with net collar and jabot or stock atop
low-necked dress or bodice, vainly imagining
that no one sees the line of skin between the
waist and the collar. Truly this is very poor
shift for acquiring high-neck blouses The
best line of high-neck vast is that Of the
neat juncture of the collar with the fabric
Of the blouse.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
d Women Nav Look Like Saints Daug of King Lea

and when a dancer wore . blue serge froek
that was trimmed with padded pink satin roses
that fashion was widely taken up.
Therefore, when Buloz seems TO have gath.
cred together all the gold meshbags In Paris
and used them as ornaments for his leading
street frock, then the world pays strict atten.
ton TO what he is doing.
Cheruit and many Of her colleagues have not
forsaken the apron gown. The little accessory
which resembles an apron, bus is intended for
ornament and not for service, appears on q
sufficient number of new frocks to proclaim
itself still in fashion.
In evening gowns even Callot has used Il a.
a background for distinguished embroidery. II
gives substantially TO a fragment Of skin
when it is made Of taffeta or satin. Sometimes
it is embroidered with Napoleonic feur-de-lis,
and this period Of French history is further
accentuated by the trim and regular vine with
its leaves that is part and parcel Of early nine
tenth century costumery.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Return of High Collars-Some Fashion Whims

TUCH as you may regret it, there is
NI no getting around the fact that high
collars are more in evidence now than
a season ago, and il may be that they are
actually going to supplant to some measure
collaress neck arrangements for street wear
Wherever well dressed women are gathered in
the morning or afternoon you cannot fail to
observe that there are numerous stocks and
net collars, both as part of the accessories for
trim suits and as part of street and afternoon
frocks
Even among supposedly we'll dressed women
there are always d good many who have not
mastered the art of wearing collars-and il
is for that reason that some of us regret see
ing collars return. To have to sit through a
musical or lecture play behind a net collar
untidily fastened, or stock that has some
what slipped its moorings, or collar stiffeners
that have become tangled in the hair or irri-
tate the skin of the neck, is certainly not very
pleasant, and there are ever so many women
who mastered perfectly the art Of adjusting
the various sorts of low-collar neck fixings
who do commit these blunders in the high
variety.
There are actually women otherwise fastid-
ous who fasten collars with plain pins. If
you use any pins at all they should be small
baby pins. But pins tear the fabric of the
collar and are not easy to adjust. For that
reason it is far better to fit your high collars
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Callot and the First
Empire Silhouette

The Callot gowns were the last to get to this
country, and they presented no new note, ex-
cept the introduction of the First Empire sill
houette Even when Callot took the most SYM
bolic feature Of this period, which is the high
wsistline that slightly girdles the figure just
under the bust, she added medieval sleeves to
it that the Empress Josephine never wore.
The most dominant First Empire frock that
Callot has sent over is of brilliant red that is
neither geranium, japanese nor wine. She
calls it "incendie" 1t has the richness of
ruby IN the light and resembles that jewel to
the inexperienced eye more than the flames
from confagration This gown is not marred
by trimming AS the French say, it goes with
out a garnish. The neck is not low in the way
that Callot is apt to arrange it, and the sleeves
not only cover the arms and wrists, but the
back of them hangs to the knees when the arms
are dropped
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Americans Insist on Pull-Back
Skirts and BustIes

For the last six weeks the hustle has been
mentioned in casual way by most Of those
who write fashions. Those who read this col
umn are aware Of the fact that the hustle was
launched during the last days Of summer; but
the fact that it has made such genuine SEN
sation in the trade of women's apparel has not
been dwelt upon to the extent it deserves.
Remember that our designers, no matter
how they depaft in trifes from French gowns,
always accept the Paris verdict Of the silhou-
cite of the year. We have been doing that
for over century SO has the rest of the
civilized world of women. There is no reason
to cavil at what has been decided in the way
OF clothes any more than financiers cavil
the rate of gold and silver 1t is established
1t is accepted. And industry is carried on on
that basis. Paris marks out the line Of the
silhouette, and America and England take
liberties with it, provided they do not change it
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Great Granddaughter
OF King Lear

Then came the first Calot gown with the
genuine medieval sleeve. The men who were
in Paris early in the summer and who saw the
possibilities in the renewal of such sleeve
got it over here before the actual Callot gowns
were unwrapped and displayed to the Amer-
an public.
1t is not easy TO define these sleeves by sim
ply calling them medieval To our American
minds they are reminiscent of the Abbey draw
ings. They might have been worn by the
daughters of King Lear. And above all, their
beauty catches the eye because Of the cathedral
colors in which they are dyed.
II you happened to see Yvette Guilbert wind
herself about with wonderful stained glass
colors in satin, chiffon and velvet when she
gave her French songs and recitations in this
country last winter, surely you wanted to go
home and get yourself some house gowns in
those warm tones.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Likely To Be
A Modified Style

The hustle, therefore, was taken up by the
Americans, who turn out costumes by the hun
dreds, more than by the exclusive importers
who do not lay much stress upon the products
of rival concerns in their own place.
A few Of the new costumes with this builtup
drapery at the end Of the spine which we call
a hustle for want of better name lave long,
straight skirts that are not even fifth COUSINS
to the pull-back of 1875. You may remember
that in that decade, which stretched from 70
to 80, there was a variety Of skirts attached
to the hustle Not all Of them were OF the
pull-back variety History promises to repeat
itself in that respect this winter, for the eA'
cessivcly narrow pull-back is too difficult for
the American woman, except as an occasional
gown for the evening
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
The Coquettish
Apron Effect

One gown which has this apron effect and
which was suggested by the Napoleonc era is
made in turquoise blue, gold and white glitter.
ing in wonderful fabrics and metallic threads.
The apron of turquoise blue satin is embroid.
cred with the leur-de-is, and the belt is Of
wide gold braid fastened with a Napoleonic
buckle and deep gold fringe.
The reporters of fashion need not have ar.
gued so violently about the incoming new col.
lar and its acceptance by women if they would
be in fashion, for this feature Of dress has been
accepted without murmur Of protest. The
passivity of the public in this regard has
puzzled the dressmakers. They did not know
that women would so. easily give up their
adored low neck. They expected fight, and
behold, they did not even have to submit an
argument.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

flying panels. They are supposedly adopted
from Chinese dress. They are placed on the
skirt or on the bodice, and there are extreme
gowns in which they swing from the shoulders.
Jenny uses them in gown that is fashioned
after those worn by Chinese women. 1t has
an oddly shaped, trousered skirt of chiffon that
is exceedingly modest and graceful Over this
fabric hang straight, flying panels in rides
cent taffeta that is weighted with gold and
crystal fringe. The waist is loosely girdled
about by Chinese sash, and the long, floating
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

Callot puts the mark of
her approval on the First
Empire gown, and she
follows the inspiration
of Yvette Guilbert in
offering colors and sill
houette taken from the
windows of destroyed ca
thedrals Jenny and Pre-
met give us flying panels
and trousered skirts
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
The Chinese Panels

There is another important feature in the
new fashions that no woman can fail to over
look. These are what are known in France as
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

The hostess gown, launched in Paris some
time ago and distinguished by the appellasi'n
'chez ellie has become such an integral paf'
Of the American woman's wardrobe that II may
now be bought ready-made As its name I'M
plies. it is a dignided boudoir robe. and It's w
dignity makes it suitable for informal wear ID
the dressing room. This dignity usually con-
sists in fabrics that do not often appear IN inc
makeup of its more negligee sister.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

Some of the striking new evening coats show
very deep hoods at the back of the collar
French model in black satin shows jaunty
little bows of this material at the turned back
cuffs that terminate the elbow length sleeves.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

Hand-painted negligee garments are shown
this autumn in decidedly attractive models.
They are usually made of Georgette crepe or
chiffon and the design is floral in character,
oftenest of wreaths or festoons around the
edges.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21
Using Gold Mesh

Using Gold Mesh
Bags
We have learned to look to Bulloz for some
thing extreme, especially since he has become
couturier to Mary Garden. His wonderful
Griselda gown that she exploited in Chicago
when singing the opera of that name produced
an epidemic of embroidered, medieval clothes,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

The autumn hats show much more trimmiu
than the hats of several seasons past and "
woman whose fingers itch to twist hat TIE
mings into shape is again in her element. r"
the last few years her ability an ama'e,'
milliner has not stood her in very good stes'
for our hats have depended for their chs"
only on their line and fit.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-21

that has slipped-an uncomfortable and dis
agreeable way that they had of doing in that
1880 period when women wore them in an
uger form than they are introduced today