davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16

leges. every and any place where young
men congregate. Mr.. Peine has an en-
gaging personality. and 1t Is easy to
imagine that wherever he goes he IL
taken as "one of the crowd" and not as
a prying outsider.
The sources of style are many and
complex. Mr.. Peine has little use for
styles produced through common agree
ment-
'1t is not the idea ITSELF" he says. but
the suggestion which that idea makes
on the receptive mind that leads to origi-
nality in style creation. Today. for in
stance. may be walking along Fifth ave-
nue. and see there two men. What they
wear is Of little consequence except to
make in my mind certain discrepancies
in their appearance that might Be RENE
died by the substitution of . different
line, another treatment OF their style OF
dress. With the mental picture Of what
would really suit these men work out
the whole effect. The faultiness Of their
attire lends itself readily to the sug-
gestion of improvement and something
new is created. Besides this critical pro-
cess there are the differences which all
good dressers affect and which may
easily be incorporated into q design. The
tailors to the select have ideas that may
be Of value. I keep In close touch with
these groups, both here and on the other
side. There may be details Of dress to
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16

be adapted from the fashions IN vornen's
wear.
when have picked up an idea ans
drafted my design. the work has not
been completed until have secured the
finished garment In Just the style had
in mind It Is not sufficient for a de-
signer to come close. in the actual gar
ment, to the mental picture he had FORM
ed Of that article. He must get Q per-
feet result To do this We have at times
made a dozen or more garments Just to
get the one effect We desired. The rest
are thrown away.
In different parts Of the country diff
ferent styles are required. Special mod
els arc produced for different parts OF
the country. Particular attention Is paid
to special requirements in given sections.
For instance, the narrow shoulder styles
that are eagerly taken in New York are
not so popular on the Coast, where a
big coat Is desired. with full shoulders,
well built up. This sort OF specialization
requires a careful combing for ideas in
the various sections of the country. II
wouldn't do for me to stay in Chica 70
and plan what the men Of the whole
country are to wear. My ideas in that
case would be limited to what saw n
Chicago.
1T Is this specialization that has leo
to the amazing growth Of the young
mems clothing business Ten years ago
clothes designed especially for youns
men were unheard of. We had youth
sizes which were made about a half AZ
inch smaller all around than the 80 to
80 inches worn by older men, but as far
as style was concerned. the young men
were wearing the same designs as their
! elders. Today the larger retailers have
separate departments and separate buy
ing organizations for handling young
mems clothing. Style Is featured We
have odd sizes. shorts and stouts. Sc
that every young man regardless of his
physical makeup may be attired in up-
to-the-minute dress. 1t Is getting L,
be moro and more the habit Of buyers
to let the price go hang. as long as the
style Is something new and attractive
suit made of the same fabric we NAV
use in a number could be sold for .
per cent less than our model and We,
ours be preferred simply because our
style and tailoring were better In manu-
featuring our product we try to get as
/ far away from the machine idea as pos
sible. Where 1t Is possible to substitute
hand work for machine work we do SC.
There Is no machine cutting in our
factory. The work is done by hand, one
suit at a time, because the results at
tained are more accurate. Put six layers
of cloth on the cutting table, run your
machine over them and the bottom LAYER
may vary half an inch from the pattern
The outlook for the young mems
branch of the clothing business is Just
as promising as its wonderful growth
in the past would lead one to suppose
it would be. We are doing the right
thing in using the best tailoring procur-
able, even II the fabrics put into suits
nowadays are not as durable as those
favored in the past 1t is not uncom-
mon for young men to buy two suits a
season, and consequently the wear that
was demanded Of suit a number of
years ago Is not required
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16
Clothes Catering
TO The YOUNG MAN
Where and How Ideas Are Obtained by
a Designer of This Class of Garment.

One Of the best known creators Of mems
fashions is a young man He hopes to
stay young. MY usefulness will cease"
says A. G. Petne. Of Alfred Decker q
Cohn, Of Chicago, when I am no longer
able to feel young, act young and think
as a young man does. For when n man
has reached a certain age limit. he can
not see things through the eyes Of
youth.
As a designer of clothing for young
men Mr.. Peine has upset some of the
cherished traditions Of the profession
His workshop in its truest sense sees
very little of him. He roams around the
country at large, mingling with the men
whose tastes he must satisfy, whose de-
sires he must anticipate. These men he
associates with in their clubs, their
sports. their pleasures, and their business
life. His trips from coast to coast take
In the big universities and the small COL
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16
PARKER-BRIDGET
FEATURING SPRING
WEAR FOR YOUNG men

P. B. style for men has long since be-
come slogan in Washington.
Their line embraces everything a man
wears. including the famous Teck Shoes
and Parker Bridget's own line of hats
and clothing.
What is not generally known, however
Is that among their many other enter
prisins activities. they are making very
extenoed displays at all the nearby col
leges. although nearby is not entirely
correct-for they are featuring complete
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16

Constant, steady watering causes STAG
nant. sour soil. and for this reason Il 10
necessary to give opportunity for drying
out TO keep soil pure and sweet
Should plant be attacked with scale or
fungus, secure whale oil soap and make
solution Of one-ouarter pound TO two
gallons Of water and wet the foliage
thoroughly. This can be best done BY
laying the plant on its side. Immediately
after cover entire plant with cloth to keep
fumes from escaping and the evaporation
Of solution.
Once a year is sufficient to repot plants
March or April are the best months.
Fertilizer is necesssry for all ferns
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16

showings Of the newest styles in spring
wear for young men at practically all
the colleges and schools in the south Al
-lantic section.
Young college men are particularly
smart dressers. and p BIS line must be
more than Just correct to enable them 10
go after this business in such a manner
The Washington herald., 1917-03-16
CARE OF FERNS.

The rule to be observed in watering
ferns is TO water when soil is dry and
then thoroughly. More ferns are ruined
by overwatering than any other variety
of plant. Unless they are placed in q
dry, sunny spot, little water is required.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

New York. April 24.-In the face
Of some Of the most desperate fight
ing the Germans have shown durins;
the war and which seems to grow in
intensity a. the British approach the
Hipdenberg line. to British continue
their advance. Today's official state
ment said they gained ground last
night on q wide front south of the
Bapaume-C Cambria road and reached
the st. Quentin canal at one point.
Further north they captured the viii
lagos Of Beaucamp and villers PLOUGH.
The British maintained all of yester-
days gains and progressed near
Monchy and Royeux. More than
hftten hundred prisoners have al
ready been counted al the result OF
yesterdays fighting.
French artillery is active and some
patrol lighting II reported. Two Ger.
man attacks were repulsed.
Germany announced that the only
British gains yesterday were on the
Cambrai-Arras road, where the ruins
Of Guemappe fell into British hands
The Brit'sh were repulsed near Arras
with tremendous losses. the stateme nj
added.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
GEORGIA TO FEED HERSELF.
PROMISES TO RAISE FOOD FOR
HER CITIZENS THIS YEAR.
Farmers and Bankers Gather at Ma.
con to Outline Plans for Emer-
gency.

Macon, Ca, April 24.-Georgia will
feed herself for the next IL months.
This was pledged in resolutions
adopted at a Statewide meeting of
farmers and bankers held here today,
which was attended by nearly 1900
men.
A campaign for more food for man
and beast will be carried into every
county and every hamlet in the State
Of Georgia. The work Of today's
meeting can be summed as follows:
The State agricultural council on
food production and conservation was
made the official organization OF
Georgia in accordance with the re-
quest of the United States govern
ment.
point commission of five men to
proceed to Washington to unravel the
fertilizer problem, taking it up with
the federal government.
Resolutions were adopted urging
the land owners to rent their lands
to tenants for a part Of the crop
raised thereon, and not for all the
| cotton, as is the general plan.
Suggestions were made by Dr. A.
NJ. Soule, president of the State agri-
cultural college, on the conservation
of food. DR.. Soule urged the plant
ing of staple, fruit and garden crops.
and urged the farmer to let "the new
and untried things alone"
The conference unanimously dis
approved the idea Of fixing a max
imum price which should be paid for
cotton, urging that the law Of supply
and demand regulate the price Of cot
ton.
A change in the basis of credit
given by bankers was urged with the
suggestion that money be lent on all
crops and loans be conditionally car.
ried over.
The canning of all vegetables and
fruits was urged by Miss Lois Dowdle.
lead of the canning club department
CT the State College Of Agriculture.
Cen it, is the suggested slogan.
Charles B. Lewis, president of the
Georgia Bankers association, outlined
tie new policy of the hanks in re-
gard to live stock. He said the
bankers will finance the stocking OF
farms with cattle and hogs. His
berk, he said, will finance the cam
ming club work in Bihb county.
Following the official meeting call
ed at the request CT Gov. Harris
there was a mass meeting of farm
ers at which resolutions were adopt
cd urging the United States govern
mcnt to close all the breweries and
distilleries in the country for the pur-
pose Of conserving the grain con-
sumed annually for the manufacture
OF beer and whiskey"
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

England Having Suffered Much From
Volunteer System is Now For Uni.
versal Service.
Washington, April 24.-Lieut Gen,
Eridges, member of the British COM
mission. told the newspaper men that
the British democracy has become
almost fanatical' over universal mill
tary service. He said the volunteer
system under which the empire enter
ed the war cost lives Of the country's
most valuable citizens, crippled the in
dustrial mobilization and immeasur-
ABLY retarded England's efforts in the
war. He said the war is no longer a
war of expeditions, but n case of ma
ton against nation.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

irons Of honor and camp sponsors
were present.
Gov. Manning was given an enthu-
siastic welcome. He eloquently praised
the valorous deeds of the veterans.
The governor came out vigorously
Tor PRESIDENT Wilson's selective draft
proposition. He said it was the only
fair and just way. 1t puts the poor
man and rich man upon the same
level. He said the men who should
be drafted into service are cigarette
smokers, lOafers around billiard rooms
and cold drink stands, fellows who
are spending their time in Joy rid
ing, idling and living beyond thei.,
means. He said he had written South
Carolina's congressman and senators
to heartily support the presidents 90.
lective draft.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
WAR FRONT BULLETINS,
BRITISH Make ADDITIONAL
GAINS AND CAPTURE PRIS-
ONERS.
French Engaged i'm Artillery Battle,
but Gain Ground, Repulsing Ger
man Counter Attaclks-German
Movement Against PetrOgrad--
Spain Almost Ready for War.

New York, April 25-The British
announced that additional ground was
won and gains secured in their often
sive between Cojeul and Scarpe riv-
ers. South of Arras the British \are
eating slowly into the German lines
between Cambria and st. Quentin
The British front was advanced two
thirds of a mile last night by the cap
ture of the hamlet Bilhem south of the
bapaume-Cambrai road. The prison.
ers the British have taken since Mon
day total three thousand.
With the French along the Aisne
and in Champagne the battle is most
ly confined to artillery. The French,
however, are continuing their progress
in local fighting. Several German at
tacks were repu,sed.
Rumors are growing of a great Ger
man attempt by land and sea agains,
Petrograd.
Spain has addressed q note to Ger.
many which may result in the aban.
donment of Germany's uncompromis
ing attitude Of ruthless warfare, or it:
acceptance of new foe.
A Berlin dispatch says the not,
contains suggestions that the crisi
may be averted through negotiation.
Germany announced that fightin.
has continued since yesterday mornin,
for the possession of the village o
Gavrelle. 1t announced that the Ger
mans took six hundred and fifty Brit
ish prisoners Monday and brough
down twenty aeroplanes. 1t account
ed for nineteen more Tuesday.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

President Of Standard OIL Compa
Says They Obey the Law.

New York. April 24.-President
Bedford. Of the Standard Oil Co.. OF
New Jersey. today stated that his COM
pany knows Of no artificial price cor
ditions In the gasoline fields. He as
serted his company had "scrupulous =,
obeyed" the dissolution decree of tHe
United States supreme court. j.
said that the operations of his con
pany were dictated solely by SCUM.
legitimate business considerations, ana
had not interferred with the grOwtt,
Of new companies. He also declare
that gasoline prices were based on
supply and demand.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
minimum prices"

minimum prices"
Mr.. Houston said he did not be-
lieve the power to fix prices woul d
have to be exercised and he did not
think the government should, go into
the wholesale BUSINESS.
The secretary said he had no ac-
curate estimate Of the grain going
into alcohol except that it's value last
year was $145, 100000.
The department of labor's boy
mobilization plan contemplates the
establishment Of enrolling stations in
every city in the country. Boys from
Is to 19 years of age would be or
ganized in squads under proper sup
ervision and with adequate equipment
would camp on farms wherever thei-
services were needed during the sea-
son,
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
APPRovEs SMITH PROPOSAL.
Wilson Favors Scheme to- Bring Nj
trates 70 America During War With

Wilson Eavors Scheme to Bring Nj.
trates TO America During War With
Germany.
Washington. April 23.-President
Wilson today gave his approval Of the
plan Of Senator e. d. Smith of South
Carolina to use the shipping facili-
ties Of the government to secure nj
trates for the farmers at cost during
the war with Germany.
The South Carolina senator had an
extended interview with the president
and called his attention to the fact
that the resolution which he had in
troduced empowering the shipping
beard to use government vessels to
bring nitrates from Latin-American
countries was on the calendar and
could be called up at any time. They
agreed that section Of the urgent de-
ficiency bill setting aside hund red
million dollars for the national de-
Tense and security Of the nation" gave
the president ample authority to bring
nitrates to this country without sena-
torial action. and the president as
sured Senator Smith that everything
possible was being done to secure nj
trates for the farmers at cost and
that should 1t be found that the pres
ident did not have this authority he
wiuld urge the passage of Senator
resolution.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
VICTORY IN MEsOPOTsa.IA.

British Capture Samara With Great
Store OF Military Material.
London. April 24.--It is officially am
nounccd that the Turks in Mesopota-
mia have been driven from their for;i-
fed positions between Samara and Is-
tabilat. The British pursuing them
occupied Samara station yesterday II d
captured 16 locomotives and 225 rail-
way trucks.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

reunion, and denounced the thought
advanced by few people to discon-
tlnue to hold them.
Haddon Johnson of Aiken deliver
ed scholarly effort when he re-
sponded to the address Of welcome in
behalf of the South Carolina division,
United Sons of Confederate Veterans.
The presentation of Gen. c. Irvine
Walker, of Summerville, honorary
commander in chief Of the United
Confederate Veterans, brought forth
much applause. He made a happy
speech that was enthusiastically re-
ceived.
The orator Of the morning was Col
j. Rice Smith Of Augusta, Ca, one
of the notable heroes Of the South in
the War Between the Sections. Col.
Smith is always a great favorite with
the veterans, and he was given a
warm welcome today. The grafton
was an able and interesting one over
flowing with jokes about the war that
made the audience shake with laugh
ter.
Col. Arthur l.. CASTOR introduced to
the veterans the wife OF the late Capt.
Lucius CASTOR Of Chester, who was
killed in the battle of Seven Pines.
Following a number of announce
ments the first session of the reunion
adjourned for dinner. The veterans
were taken to the homes of the peo-
pie of Chester for dinner.
At o'clock the second session Of
the reunion convened with Gen.
league presiding. A number Of time
ly subjects were discussed. The pro-
posed movement that the reunion in
Washington be called off until fall OH
account Of inability of the veterans to
gain access to many of the national
capitals historic and famous build
ings was killed insofar as the South
Carolina division is concerned. which
unanimously went on record as strong
ly opposing the movement to change
the date. 1t was shown that Presi-
dent Wilson was heartily in favor OF
holding the reunion in June, thinking
that it would be a capital idea at this
time for the expression of fidelity f.
the nation by the veterans of the
South in this concrete manner. Gen.
league expressed the opinion that the |
veterans would probably have access
to more places Of interest in June than |
they would in October, as information.
al affairs might take even a more
acute turn precipitating a more rigid
patrol about the Washington buildings
than exists today.
From to $50 O'clock this after
noon brilliant reception was held
at the Commercial club by the Chcs-
ter chapter, United Daughters Of tho
Confcderacy, for the veterans. sons
OF veterans. sponsors, maids and ma
irons or honor, official ladies and 9th
er visiting ladies, Gov Manning's staff
etc. The rooms were attractively
decorated with Stars and Bars and
Stars and Stripes, along with gorgeous
loral decorations Refreshments were
The third session of the reunion con-
'encd tonight at the city hall with
iov. Richard I. Manning as honor :
quest. Gen. r. II. league presided.
A splendid evenings entertainment
vas rendered hy tho people of Ches-
er. which was greatly enjoyed by the
yeterans.
The division sponsors, maids, ma |
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

cd In the increase Is shown in fgures
giving the increase in demand 3S per
cent. In 1916 and the production seven
per cent. below the year before. Tho
standard books show large earning>
says the report. as also was evidenced
by the enhanced stock market value
OF Standard securities.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

Columbia, April 24.-Gov. Manning
yesterday appointed I. G. Hough OF
Camden sheriff Of Kershaw, vice the
late w. w. Huckabee. The late sher-
III had only recently entered upon
term OF four years and 1t is to fill out
the unexpired portion Of this term that
Mr.. Hough IL appointed.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28

Rome. April 24.-Corriere d. Italia,
the clerical organ. says 1t is able 10
confirm reports printed in SPANS /,
newspapers that the immediate fol-
lowing Of the German emperor arc
exerting their influence to get hir, 10
abdicate. Little attention is paid TO
the report In official quarters.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
DESPERATE N!TlE RACES.
GERMANS DOING HARDEST
FIGHTING SINCE WAR
STARTED.

British Continue Advance I'm Spite of
German Struggle to Hold Hinden-
berg IAne-They Hold All of Their
Gains and Capture Many Prisoners
French Also Active.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
UNREST IN SPAIN.

HofIhef Premler Says He ReSignC0'
Because He Felt Spain Should JOIN.
Allies.
Paris, April 25.-Count Romanones
il quoted in an interview with the Pc
tit Parisien correspondent as saying
that he resigned the premiership be-
cause of his conviction that Spain
should join allies. He said Germany
has paralyzed Spanish business and is.
in the meantime carrying on propa-
ganda through Spanish newspapers 10
brighten people by emphasizing the
horrors Of war. The interview also re-
fers to the action Of South American
nations in breaking with GERMANY.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
WOULD SOLVE FOOD PROBLEM
SECRETARY HOUSTON OUTLINES
HIS IDEAS FOR MEETING
SITUATION.

Suggests That Department be Given
Right to Fix Maximum Price for
Footlstuffs and to Take Census to
Find Out What Amount of Food
stuffs There is In the Nation-To
Organize Boys to Raise Food Crops.
The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1917-04-28
M PlIeE FIXED BY TlUsT.|
sEANDARD Oh COMPANIES RE
@o1SoEDIE YOR HIGH PRICE
-, or GASOLINE.

nsDnH g Federal Trade Commission
Days B1sme for High Priced Pc.
9oosun Prcducts upon monopoly
~ ~ H1g Companies Owned by
oon.e Observation-Disclosures
Isonlat5oa That WIN Remedy tho
Dpc0ros q Court Decision.