davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-09-24
CREPE DE CHINE

One of the choicest and most
complete showings of Silk
Crepe de Chine in Oregon. The
same shades that are carried
by Marshal Field of Chicago
and like firms. Six distinctly
different grades. and dozens
of colors in each grade. The
most stylish and popular
shades shewn anywhere are in
our stock. All our Crepe de
Chimes are 40 inches wide.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1917-09-24
PLUSHES

This very popular and equal
ly scarce fabric can be found
in abundance in our Dress
Goods Department. Some of
the colors are: Black, African
Brown, Russian Green, Char
treuse and Taupe. Just the
newest and most wanted
shades.
In the handsome Crushed
Plush are to be found such
rich shades as Taupe, Black,
etc.
This fabric has no equal for
coatings. It's popularity is in
creasing each year. Every
piece comes so inches wide.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

ly over the striped tunic and the gor-
geous chiffon coat in blue and gold
swept quite to the floor at the back.
Russian House Gowns In Great Favor.
The Russian lines. simple, straight
and loosely girdled lend themselves
we'll to the house gown idea and a
most attractive model from Bulloz is
pictured. This is Russian gown of
blue velvet with flowing Chinese
sleeves and Chinese embroidery in
peachblow and pale mais in trim
ming bands. The skirt is laid in
loose pleats and the waist portion is
cleverly cut in circular manner which
brings fullness at the belt while the
shoulders are ungathered. Another
house gown with straight lines that
show off to advantage a sumptuous
blue and silver brecade, has an un-
derslip Of gray chiffon and full chif-
fon sleeves. Bands of gray fox fur
edge the foot of the gown and define
a straight-across decolletage. A mod
est decolletage is insisted upon in the
house gown which has its inception in
the government edict against conven-
tional evening dress.
The Jenny house gown of silver
lace, has a drapery that falls COM
pletely over the upper part of the
figure and the arms. This is exceed
ingly graceful, if a tri1e inconvenient.
for one wonders how its wearer would
serve afternoon tea with her arms
thus swaddled. The silver lace drap-
cry, however. can be thrown back
over the shoulders-at least one would
have to manage that way. it seems.
This dainty at home costume is made
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
THIS House S|.|
GOWN. by Bulloz i,
iSin Blue Velvet and
Chinese Embroidery

and bit severe In their street clothes,
but their house gowns, made in Paris
for the most part, are exquisitely
graceful and add not a little to the
leisurely charm Of an English draw
ing room at tea hour.
One recalls the house gowns of a
lovely English hostess Of high degree
who dispensed a beautiful hospitality
in her home outside of London. One
of these charming gowns was of
brown chiffon with a skirt in many
futtering founces. and a tunic bodice
caught in at the waistline under a
knotted sash Of orange and gold silk.
Another gown was of gray net COW
cred with steel beads, hung in straight
lines over an underslip of dull blue
silk and girdled with a wide belt of
steel beads clasped with a ruby and
crystal bead ornament.
Dainty Slippers Demanded BY The
House Gown.
An opportunity for the display of
enchanting footwear is afforded by
the new fashion for house gowns Of
luxurious fabric. The smart buttoned
boots Of formal wear are discarded
when the clinging, trailing, at home
costume is donned for such a costume
calls for exquisitely pretty slippers
and silk stockings in matching shade.
With house gowns in yellow, gold.
orange and brown tones bronze kid
slippers seem to be the fnvorite sort:
and glazed kid slippers in pastel tints
are matched to house costumes Of
delicate hue. Gold and silver cloth
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

The crib has been turned into a
day-bed-for every baby, If she is
fashionable, must have her luxurious
day-bed just now. The drapery Is
Of rose-flowered white chiffon over,
pale blue soiree silk, with an edge
trimming of net frilling. The down
quilt is covered with pale blue soiree
silk embroidered dehcate.S IN white
and pink. and the small pillows have
embroidered null slips over blue silk.
Small belongings for the baby are
in keeping with the crib and mirror.
There are ribbon trimmed hangers
for tiny coats, a white enameled
tree" for baby's night clothes when
not in use, and wicker wardrobes and )
chiffoniers for the safe keeping of
little frocks and petticoats; all the
receptacles lined with padded and
perfumed silk. A little washstand Of
enameled wood is supplied with a
Kate Greenaway set Of china and
even the toilet appurtenances-the
brush, comb and powder jars. are in
cream. pink and DalA haaA-> .sat
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
~ EnchanIirlSsJera House
Gown~of Silver Lace. Peach
Pink crepe and Flesh Pink Satin

Of peach pink crepe, flesh pink satin
and wide silver lace. Silver and rose
brocade ribbon is tied, sash fashion.
around the skirt above the knees.
Slippers of flesh pink glazed kid, with
stockings to match. accompany the
gown.
Typical of the house Of Callot is
the flowing house gown of superb
fabrics and arresting color scheme.
Nothing Callot Soeurs make is ever
insignificant; one simply cannot pass
a Cabot model by. This house gown :
of rose satin, rose and silver brocade
and paleot rose chiffon is intricate
and subtle in line; and the simmer
ing rose tints are caught and held In
one splendid touch of glowing rose
color at the girdle-where q deep
pink rose is posed against a. draped
belt Of dull Natter blue. This is one
Of the fascinating at home gowns
that have been nick-named in Paris
Vampire gowns" Nothing more all !
hiring in woman's dress has ever been
designed, the couturiers insist, than
these clinging, floating, artfully In
formal house gowns. OF course, they
cost a good deal of money for their,
simplicity is offset by richness and
splendor of material, and the works
manship must be perfection inside
and out in costume so sheer. But
Paris usually puts perfect workman-f
ship into the least Of her efforts-no
meretricious sewing with unsightly
thread that does not match or will
soon fail to match delicately tinted
fabrics, as one finds occasionally in
American costumes whose manufac-
turers take advantage of woman's
carelessness by substituting cheap
thread for silk.
Catch any French woman being de-
ceived this way! OF all the hand
some house gowns pictured, perhaps;
the Worth model is the handsomestss
because of it's superb shawl draperyf
of gold thread embroidered silk crepe.4
this gold embroidered mantle in flame
color. above an underdress Of finely
pleated tobacco brown soiree silk. r's
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

Everything should be planned for
fresh, sweet cleanliness. And the
nursery should be given thorough
cleaning oftener than any other room
in the house. A big rug, for this
reason, is much better than a nailed
down acarpets. and woodwork Should
be white or very light'in color so that
weekly washing will be necessary
for the sake of looks at least. Marks
Of little fingers and boots will not
show on dark woodwork and a care
less maid will be tempted to forego
the weekly wiping down of the walls,
stills and door frames. Only such
curtains and hangings as can be
readily taken down and laundered
should adorn the nursery windows,
and it will be best to have two sets
Of shades; white or pale tan shades
for use during the day. and dark
green shades for night use and for
afternoon nap hour. Children will
sleep later in the morning in a well
darkened, room; like the birds they
are awake and a-twitter with the first
peep o. Hght-a habit most Distress
ing to worn out parents who yearn
for another forty winks in tho early
morning.
Yellow, the sun color, is the ideal
tint for nursery, Pale yellow,
orange, a touch of blue, and white
in woodwork, make a delightful color
scheme. Pink should be avoided in
the nursery, and lavender is a color
that does not appeal either. An en-
chanting nursery that the Scribe
knows of has white woodwork and
walls tinted light yellow from picture
moulding to within four feet of the
Dashboard, and deep yellow below. Be-
tween the two yellows runs a two
inch strip of gray and just above the
strip all around the room are pasted
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
Typical Callot Lines IN this Flowirss
Cr,eatiorn Of Satin. Broocade, zrld Chiffon ae
MediaeDal Designs Sought for Modern Lounging
Robes Russian, Chinese, Venetian and Oriental
Effects Combined : Much Lace and Chiffon
But Felu Beads On the House QoDn

Importers have searched the studios
of artists for ideas and have even
gone to Venice to study ancient cos
tunes in studios there. Mediaeval
styles have been recaptured and in
corporated into lovely modern crea-
tions, all flowing lines and wonderful
color; and the best of it is, If one Is
a bit economically minded, Is that
almost any discarded evening gown
may be turned into the most adorable
house robe with the addition of a lit
tie new material.
Americans Do Not Wear Enough
House Gowns.
It has always seemed surprising,
to French and English women, that
the Americans gave SO little attention
to house robes. In England especial
~, the tea gown is an institution. No
English woman Of fashionable rank
ever thinks of sitting about her homo
in her street clothes as American
women do. The moment she comes
in, her maid removes her tailored out
door attire and gets her into a tea
gown or house gown Of. soft silk or.
chiffon. In this she receives her aft
ernoon visitors and serves tea in her
drawing room. The English house
gown is the most charming costume
one sees--though only the privileged
visitor who has the entire into the
homes Of high-class people ever do
see it. English women are inclined
to be a bit stiff in their evening frocks
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

pictures Of animals, birds and chill
dren; some in motion, some at rest.
The pictures have been clipped from
picture books. magazine advertise
ments and the like; some are In color,
some in printed black and white. and
some in silhouette effect-all black.
Now and then new treasure Is add
ed above the picture rail" and the
little folks never tire of their fascinat-
ing gallery. This pale yellow and
white room has atrug in yellow, brown
and blue tones, blue and white Gre
tonnes in the windows and chair and
window seat cushions in plain blue
and plain yellow. There is a fireplace
with black andirons and coy fire.
side chair with broad arms for the
snuggling-up STORYTELLING. hour at
dusk. a.
Yellow is a rather strident hue for
the wee baby whose divine right
seems to be pink or. blue; but the
very little baby seldom has special
nursery all to itself. BY the time it
comes to crib and nursery age. pink
and blue have become a bit passe.
Part of very luxurious nursery, how
ever, is the baby's bed pictured-part
of such nursery as every little moth
er dreams of for the incalculable
treasure that is hers. The dainty crib,
made of enameled wicker and with
adjustable sides that may be let down
when convenient, stands in a room
whose walls are hung with palest blue
satin on which are festoons Of pink
roses. The woodwork is cream enamel
and all the furniture is cream enamui
wicker, the pretty crib, the fire screen
with panels of pale blue silk, the low
chairs cushioned also in pale blue,
and all the small belongings for baby's
comfort. There is even a diminutive
cheva mirror framed in cream
enamel. and if the occupant of the
room is a girl baby one is sure her
first uncertain steps will be taken in
the direction of that fascinating mir
ror! There is also a little padded
chair-the tiny wicker chair in which
every baby from time immemorial
has learned to sit up. Seat, back and
arms Of this chair are padded with
paleF blue silk and the tray is of
cream enameled wood.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
~HE government of France has
put a ban on evening gowns. It
has issued an edict against


put ban on evening gowns. It
has issued an edict against
women wearing evening dress
hh public. This is serious express
sion of disapproval against frivolity
in q time Of tragedy; it is more than
that-an official edict with fines and
even arrests for the luckless ones who
d1Sobey. It is a serious thing indeed
when the government Of a great ma
ton concerns itself so arbitrarily with
the garb OF its womankind, yet in
France now the spirit Of patriotism,
OF helpfu1ness. is so high that there
is yet to be found a single woman
who has made the least demur
against the Governments command.
The Frenchwoman, however, is a
resourceful creature-and she must
be chic; even If she has to spend her
evening hours by her own Preside
or to be exact. for hresides are rather
the exception in Paris-in her own
salon. Denied the conventional
grande toilette Of formality, she has
turned her attention to enchanting
at homo gowns-lounging robes, or
house robes, as she terms them and
needless to say. the couturiers have
come to her aid in a body; some OF
the new house robes are veritable
dreams Of loneliness. These robes
arc really glorifed tea gowns and in
spiration for them is drawn from
Russian. Chinese and Oriental motifs.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

The straight robe was pale saffron in
tone part way down and then deep
orange. Its sleeves were in kimono
style and the simple, straight lines
were most artistic Through slashes
was drawn a sash of gold ribbon
which passed outside the chiffon in
front, but underneath at the back.
The second house gown was decidedly
Oriental and betrayed the Bakst in
fuence strongly. It appeared to be in
Turkish trouser effect with trailing
coat of peacock blue chiffon and gold
lace. Some soft striped silk in gold
and peacock blue stripes fell from the
neck downward and was passed be-
tween the knees and up again at the
back, giving the trouser effect The
skirt portion was probably large bag
of the silk with the lower corners
slashed off diagonally for the feet to
slip through. There was beaded
belt in jewel sepblance falling loose
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

~ HE girl who needs a good many
dance frocks and has to con-
- trivs a little to have all she
needs will like to know about a pretty
model. displayed in a Fifth avenue
window this week, which could easily
be copied at home. A charming
frnck it is. with a draped overskirt
OF peach pink soiree silk, falling in
shimmarfcg folds above an under
slip Of silver lace and chiffon. The
drapery looks like the last word from
Paris yet is IDLY simple in con-
structiCn. First, make simple slip
of white chiffon, the bodice reaching
from bust line to waist, and a straight,
gathered skirt Of the chiffon, hemmed
at the lower. edge. And always be
careful to sew chiffon with, silk thread,
a cheaper substitute, sometimes found
in ready made models, inevitably takes
from the distinction Of such frock.
Trim the white chiffon slip with
bands of silver galloon; q row around
the top of the bodice and a second
row about seven inches below; then
sew two rows on the skirt; one just
below the belt line and another seven
inches below that. The rest Of the
skirt will be covered by the silk over
skirt, but a band of the silver lace
at the hem will add daintiness. Tie
an inch wide silver ribbon around the
waist to cover joining Of bodice and
skirt and make little bow at the
center front and center back. So
much for the underslip. The draped
Oycrskirt Is made of three yards Of
yard-wide silk; soiree is the prettiest
evening silk because of it's simmer
ing lights and satiny texture. The
selvedge will come at top and bot
tom and there. will be n single seam
up the center back. Match the ma
terial exactly in sewing silk for this
seam. Gather eighteen inches of the
upper edge into five-inch space at
center trent and back and slip these
gathered sections under the silver rib
bon belt. Pull up the silk in the
center until you have little fan"
Of silk above the belt ribbon. Fasten
IN place and then draw out the gath
erfng threads. The lifting Of the
IAN" of silk will raise the overskirt
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
EUr'nA@0AA6 Me
GNNv seDN -

1y housed in thousand-dollar nur-
series-at least the said fond parents
would feel bit out of place, visit
ing their offspring in such sumptuous
surroundings.
Charm in the nursery is not so
much question of money as of taste.
and very pretty room may be de-
vised with the expenditure of only a
few dollars. First, and most i'm
portant, is the matter of sunshine.
To the baby must be given the sun
nlest room in the house, even If it is
the chamber that has heretofore been
set apart as a guest room The more
windows the, better, and an ideal ar
rangement is double orr triple win
dow with a long, low seat running
under the sills. Warmth is another
important consideration An even.
equable heat must be maintained all
day long in the nursery. Spasmodic
heating from an open fire, oil stove
or gas burner will not do; though an
open fire will be delightful addition
to the nursery if it can be managed
and an oil or gas heater may be
called into use at bath hour on spe-
cially cold mornings. But furnace
heat of some sort there should be, all
winter long.
Floor draughts must be avoided.
Weather strips should be put in all
the windows and also, along the bot
tom of doors opening into the hall or
other rooms. Som etimes in old or
poorly built houses a draught makes
it's way between floor and Dashboard
and any crevice of this sort should be
attended to. One large, soft rug is
better than several small ones, and
the rug should be heavy enough to
keep its place on the floor and not
rumple up under active little feet or
drag about when toys or chairs are
moved.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18

slippers are not worn with such gowns
for they suggest the splendor and
formality of a bona fde evening cos
tune.
That Paris is being closely initiated
In this new fad of house gowns, or at
home gowns, is proved by the won
derful models now being exhibited in
the shops; superb affairs, not includ-
ed with the day and evening frocks
displayed in the "dressmaking salons"
but special models in glass cases SO
placed that no.4one can fail to note
the new lines Of these wonderful cos
tunes. Two such, models occupied
one glass case. and many a wom-
an paused to exclaim over the love-
ly lines and really thrilling color
effects. One house gown was of chif-
fon in a straight robe-like garment
falling from neck to foot in unbroken
lines, but left open at the sides to
reveal an underslip of gold tissue.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
An Easily Made Dance Frock

slightly at the hem at front and back.
The side. unattached to the belt will
fall down in graceful drapery, reveal
ing the silver banded chiffon under
skirt at the hips. This frock had no
sleeves and shoulder straps Of silver
ribbon held up the little bodice. \ A
scarf of tul1e was lightly thrown over
shoulders and arms.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
l QUILL PEN FOR THE LIBRARY
WRITING TABLE.

~ HE last touch Of modern dis
tinction is added to the library
- desk or writing table by a tall
quill pen, its business end stuck in
a metal "shot jar''-just as ancient
quill pens used to repose when not
in use. Whether one uses the orna-
mental pen, or prefers the trusty
fountain sort for ordinary writing, it
is very, very smart to have a quill in
shot jar on the library desk-espe-
cially If the desk is a handsome old
one of Colonial type.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-01-18
CHARMING nursery is so G

CHARMING nursery is so easy
to achieve at moderate cost
that the young mother should
- not be discouraged because of
the luxurtously furnished apartments
for infants. on which she feasts her
longing eyes in magazine pictures and
in model rooms arranged in the big
shops. OF course, one may spend a
thousand dollars fitting up an appro-
pirate room for the little stranger
who is coming--if one has the thou
sand dollars and such room seems
becoming to the rank and station Of
its future small occupant. Every
baby is priceless to its fond parents,
but very few babies would be fitting
The Owosso times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1897-1926, 1917-07-06
oWoSsO MARKETS.
GRAINS

Owosso. Mich. July 8, 1917.
The Owosso times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1897-1926, 1917-07-06
SHEEP INJURE TREES.
Animals Should Not Be Pastured In
Small Orchards.

Animals Should Not Be Pastured In
Small Orchards.
Don't pasture the sheep in the or.
chard unless you have such large
areas to feed over that no damage will
be done to the trees" is the advice of
Albert Dickens. professor of horticul.
ture in the Kansas State Agricultural
college.
Sheep are good feeders and will
clean up a weedy orchard or any 9th
er patch of brush land in a short time.
but the great danger comes In feeding
sheep In small orchard.
Too many men believe that they can
pasture any number of sheep in a
small orchard without injury. The
animals. however, will eat off the
leaves, limiting the fruit buds for the
next year, and will tramp the ground.
destroying filth of the soil and slowing
up growth and productiveness Of the
trees.
Some men have had success with
feeding sheep In their orchards. but
their conditions are different. as they
have large orchards of 500 acres or
more. The danger of injury to the
trees is thus considerably lessened by
the large areas which the sheep have
to feed over The best plan is to keep
the sheep out Of the orchard and Let
them clean up other weedy places
the farm.
The Owosso times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1897-1926, 1917-07-06
Making the
Farm Pay.
POINTS ABOUT LEGUMEs.
incubation Of Soil Often Necessary to
Get Good Stand ofCIover.

incubation Of Soil Often Necessary to
Get q Good Stand ofFCIover.
prepared by United States department Of
agricultural
One fundamental characteristic OF a
leguminous crop Is the presence on
the roots Of nodules or tubercles which
are infested by bacteria. These bac-
terra are essential both to the success
full growth Of the plant and to its value
as feed and as a green manure crop.
They enter the plant from the soil, and
it is obvious therefore that IL the soil
does not contain them in the first place
the crop will prove a failure.
If leguminous crop is grown for the
first time in field it is probable that
nodule forming material of the right
kind will not be present. They must
be supplied therefore by artificial
means. This process is called inocu-
lating the soil.
One practical and effective method of
incubation is to transport soil from
field where 1t is known that the needed
bacteria exists. Soil from fields of al
falfa, sweet clover and bur clover will
inoculate field for any Of these three
crops. Soil from red alsike, crimson
and white clover is also interchange
The Owosso times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1897-1926, 1917-07-06

able, and this is true, too, Of the vetch-
es and field peas. Cowpeas and soy
beans, however, each require their own
particular brand Of bacteria.
Soil intended for the purpose of in
Oculation should he free from obnoxious
weeds. 1t should be taken from the
first five or six inches OF the surface
and spread at the rate of 200 to 4OU
pounds per acre on the field to he inOcu-
lated. AS the bacteria are killed by
strong sunlight, the transported soil
should be spread in cloudy weather,
early morning or late afternoon, and
narrowed soon after Where inoc,llat-
ing soil is scarce it is possible to save
In its use by the adoption Of what is
known as the glue method. A thin
mixture Of Clipped glue and water is
sprinkled over the seed at the rate of
about quart of the liquid to bushel.
Then sufficient quantity of dry, in
Oculated soil is mixed with the seed to
make it dry enough to SOW well. In
this way the seed is coated with inocu-
lated soil and carries this soil with it
when it is placed In the field
Still another method is incubation by
means Of liquid cultures. A limited
supply Of these may be secured free
upon application to the United States
department of agriculture. Many of the
state experiment stations also supply
these cultures. Commercial firms also
sell them. Directions for the use Of
these cultures accompany all shipments.