Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-03-05

OF plue velvet The tendency is to bring
put % tne mlltary and Chinese thoughts One
NAT Salong the lines OF the military was car.
l''u out IN two shades of deep violet while
nI,l'ary toque Of deep violet has an
oriental 'Chinesy' trimming Of gray ribbon
The season promises to he decidedly color
lui' put the colors are all in the soft pas
tel shades. Models from Jeanne Lanvin the
Maison Lewis. Maria Guy and Evelyn Varon
were much in evidence. one OF the latest
things is the baby veil" 80 called because
II II placed on the hair close to the face
under the hat and has a medallion In the
center below the chin. which is supposed to
lie fiat on the neck when the wearer is dis
.porting an open-necked frock Some ot the
wells are so arranged that the embroidered
ornaments on them are used for a trim
ming on fat-crowned hat.
STRAwBRIDGE & CLoTHIER
A perfect riot in materials with perhaps
more discretion than IN past years IA to
color, greets the eye on entering the mil
linery salon at Strawbridge Il CIothiers.
where the annual spring opening is being
held today Crowns are lower this season,
the small mushroom shape being in first
favor with the designers.
Conservatism marks the incoming hats
Tired OF the Tam-oShanter and extreme
stove-plpes which could only be becoming
TO a limited number Of women, this seasons
chapeauN are notiCeably discreet and con-
ventional IN regard to their shape
But designers have made up In material
for what they lack in variety Of blocks.
Khaki-kool Is a reisning favorite, with
bangkok straw, coronation braid. milan,
linen, faille, and last but not least, figured
silk all trying hard for second place
Chinese treatment is everywhere In
evidence. In the mushroom shape. the broad
fat hat. the toque with a gaiiy colored but
ton and tassel dangling of at one side Is
the oriental influence felt. And indeed for
utilitarian purposes. for general becoming
ness 1t is heard TO beat.
LIT BROTHERS
! An unusual number Of smart models fea,
| tures Lit Brothers formal spring millinery
| opening being held today tomorrow and the
succeeding day in the salon on the third
1 floor. Large hats, delicateiy constructed
are much In evidence. many OF these being
! of net georgette crepe or Of lace.
one misses this season the violent fu.
| turistic cblorlngs which have been so II
vogue. for while many bright colors are II
| evidence these are usually softened by trim
| ming Of a blending shade. Thus corn
colored straw will be trimmed in brown and
a gay hat in gray-blue instead Of direc
| Complementary shade.
| The hats OF the incoming season FAR,
| petite and demure rather than daring
| Turned down shapes partly concealing thu
| face or wlde-brimmed hats with a quain
| sag at one side predominate
The principal novelty OF the season il
| furnished by the contrasting materials
| which go to make up the hat. Milan
| gecrgette crepe and braid will form tn,
| body of one hat, while another will be o
| Oriental figured silk and coronation braid
| Trimmings include the demure forget t-me
not pansies, fruit. burnt peacock. pont
| lilies, roses. orchids and beaded ornaments
| In abundance.
One special feature Is the display o
mourning hats. an unusually good assort
ment from which to choose.