Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-09

the storage battery terminals? Is
there any means of testing the mag
neto other than attaching IL to the
engine?
/ VIII the vibrator coil work II the
dry cell battery wires are attached to
the storage battery terminals? Is this
liable to ruin the coil?
How can | test the coil TO be sure
I IL is right? What changes would have
to be made to run the engine off the
storage battery instead of the mag
neto?
/ In the d carburetor how large
should the slot in which the needle
works be? The opening in mine Is
about twice the size of the needle.
Engine wouldn't run slowly, throttle
II down and she would stop, put gas
control lever up notch or two and
the engine would race badly What is
the cause of this, and how can II be
remedied? G.. l..
A. AS the engine ran when you had
n tension on the string, there un-
doubtedly is play somewhere in the
breaker box. The spring which holds
the cover on may be weak or re-
versed, so that the inside contacts are
poor, or the stationary member of the
interrupter may be loose. You should
be able to find this play by taking out
the magnetic and pressing on the ter
minal TO which you fastened the
spring. The interrupter points should
open about the thickness of a visiting
card.
! Spinning the magnetic armature by
hand will show If it is working prop
erly' when connected up to its coil
and spark plug. a wire being used TO
take the place of the ground" 1t
would be cheaper and wiser, however,
to send the magnetic to the nearest
service station of the maker, or to the
factory, and have it tested there. l
am inclined to believe from the last
part of your letter that it can stand
lremagnetizing.
You can use n three e'cell storage
battery in place OF the dry cells. Care
will have to be taken not to leave the
switch on battery" for any length Of
| time, or the coil may be burned out.
You could test the coil by laying a
spark plug on top OF the cylinder and
then substituting dry-cell battery
for the terminals on the center and
side of the breaker box. and then
suddenly opening and closing the
switch. The magnetic distributor
brush will have to be in contact with
the segment of the plug being tested,
however.
do not quite make out what slot
you refer to. There should be no air
leakage around the needle. l am in
clined to believe that the impossibility
OF throttling down the engine is due
more to the magnetic magnets being
weak than to the carburetor.
q. First-What causes a knocking
which sounds like 1t comes from the
rear construction somewhere? Can
be heard very distinctly when pulling
a hill or on a hard pull. in rough
roads or sand. Car runs fine other
wise. Model T. 1915 Ford.
Second--What causes the ring gear
to wear on the outer edge of the
teeth only? Have replaced two sets
of drive gears on account of them
wearing this way ana being noisy. All
bearings are in good shape and hous-
ings are properly aligned so far as
/ can see.
Third-What is the best grade of
oil to use in Ford car that has been
run 10000 miles, for hot weather, and
what mileage does Ford claim for
their motors on oil?
Fourth-ls there any remedy for
smoking motor caused by excessive
amount of Oil? Have tried several
grades of oil with no Improvement.
Carburetor is adjusted as low as pos
sible. The car is a 1913 d with
mechanical oier and splash system.
L.tM G..
A. First--The knock you refer to
may be due to n worn universal joint,
or to the square end of the propeller
shaft being badly torn.
Second-The ring gear of n Ford
always wears as you say, but If the
wear is excessive, II is liable to be
due to the driving pinion having
worked forward. This may be due to
worn thrust bearing, or the pin
which goes thru the universal joint
and the end of the propeller shaft,
where the two are Joined, may have
been left out or be badly worn. This
will also cause the knock you mem
ton.
Third believe an oil something
of the thickness OF vacuum Grade A
would be about right for your car.
You should get about $50 miles 70
the quart OF Oil.
FOURTH am inclined to believe
that the piston rings of this car are
worn. If not, then you might try cut
ting groove about n sixty-fourth of
an inch deep just below the bottom
ring and drilling three or four six
teenth-lnch holes in the grooves
pointed downward to the inside of
the piston.
InDn