Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-09-30

a.
cadet piGe broadcloth and Jacket OF
Jofire blue gaberdine braided in
ITlsht red. Collar and vest OF white
organdy.
salmon watermelon pink and flame
Ieu are some or the colors which are
put with gray gowns to be worn for
an hours OF the day and evening.
cray one-piece frocks for the street,
oIiered as substitute for tailored
suits have fitted, medieval corsel,ts
made of braid
tureIess craVats on the most for
MAJ suits gain In Importance. This
kinu or heckwear started In Paris
last May. but the American Dress
maker did not take it seriously until
the new autumn models arrived
These cravats are made of the cloth
of the suit, lined with a fanciful fab
ric. or they embody brilliant color
scheme, which has many advantages
IN that II brightens the suit and often
makes 1t more becoming to the
~earer.
So far. the high, stiff, military Coz
collar has not appeared, but every
other Kind Of collar that mounts to
me chm has been employed to supply
.he demand for high neckwear. The
'rench muffler is delighted In by
many women, whether il is made of
FUR OF cloth. 1t almost DISCUSSES the
.ace, II envelops so much of the
.ower part of it.
Ostrich Plumcs Again.
Ostrich plumes are slowly coming
back into fashion. Paris provided
them for the great middle class Of
women who suddenly became we'll
to-do thru high salaries. These
women believe that sealskin coats,
diamond solitaires and ostrich feath
ers are still the symbols of wealth.
What was true of France quick be-
came true of England. Altho plumes
are selling there today at $50 and
S1hO apiece, because of reduction In
supply, there are buyers aplenty for
them. 1t is expected that the indus
trial condition of America will be
the same as that which has prevailed
In England and France during the
latter part of the war, and that the
women, who are the real spenders of
nation, will buy clothes moro Law
ishly and recklessly than they have
for century. The reason for this
is that they are taking the places Of
men and getting money to spend
without asking men tor it,
AS for the ostrich feather in
America, 1t is slowly making its ap
pearance, but II is sponsored by so
many good houses that no doubt 1t
will appear on many hats when the
cold weather comes.
Hatter's plush is strongly endorsed
by the milliners for women's street
hats. 1t will also be used for the
brims of the large picture hats which
have collapsible velvet crowns. For
tunately fer the majority of women,
the bell-shaped hat which was in
fashion last summer, will be retained
for the winter in this new material
The aviator's turban, which is OBJ
long. is being introduced in jet Sc
quins. with a quill of spangles placed
across the top. Probably there will
he more Jet used on hats even than
on gowns. While the smooth silk
plush hats do not require any more
ornament than a band and a buckle
the ornate hats of panne velvet and
chiffon velvet are permitted to flash
forth great fans of Jet, broad bands
and luills Of IL, and immense orna
nents made of Jet beads.
There Is a struggle going OH today
between the plain and the trimmed
hat. The smart women want the
former. and the grasping women want
the latter. II there is to be q sudden
thrush of commercial business done
by women who are spending their.
own money for the first tlmb, rest
assured that the trimmed hat Will
be In strong demand.
Callot cuts her skirts ten inches
from the floor today. Bernard and
many others, however, cut them IA
inches from the ground. Cherult
who makes the longest skirts In the
Paris collection, lifts her hem eight
inches from the ground.
Would you care to wear chemise
on which was embroidered the baton
of Joseph Joffre, the hero Of France?
or would you prefer TO have one
which has the American eagle sur
rounded by the stars Of all the states?
| Or maybe you would prefer to have
YOUR chemise embroidered with the
/ rench war phrase. which, trans
lated into English, reads: Spend
your gold for your country" One re-
grets very much to say that all OF
these chemises are offered by exclu-
sive houses. There are no limits
ers will not 60 in their search for
originality.
The cadet sash of dull red worn
by the cadet captains In the gradu-
ating class at West Point. have been
adopted for young girls costumes.
and they are very effective. The
Youngsters at West Point have TO pay
$40 for this insignia, but the Ameri-
can girl will not pay q third OK that
| for hers.
brought into high fashion, as 1t suits
itself to the silhouette OF the hour.
and worn over o dark blue skirt, and
II Ia also made in dark blue with
suit to correspond, enlived by brass
buttons and the dull red officers
sash.