davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

is here or Of white and trim it with
blue to be distinctly sailor-like. OF
course you will follow the sailors
colors otherwise the little lad will not
be quite content. The coat suit is a
good one for galatea and for linen and
for gingham and for all such materials
and it is really very simple and
easy to make. All the little boys are
wearing straight trousers, they are so
much more comfortable than the ones
that bind the knees and incidentally,
they are much simpler and easier to
make. Thescare supplied with waist
bands within Their edges in which are
button holes that allow of buttoning
to the under waist and so being kept
firmly in place.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

that means dissertation rather than
reverence.
The military influence is apparent
in great many ways. There will be
great deal of khaki color worn, not
alone in the costumes that a great
many women are preparing for the
fields and for the outdoor labor that
they contemplate in the lateL season,
but also for general outings and tramps
and occasions Of such sort. Among
the latest output are blouses Of fine
materials, handkerchief lawn and wolfe
and the like, to match so that one can
wear khaki-colored costume without
discomfort. even on the warmest day
that the Summer may bring forth
There are some very charming jersey
silks in what are known as regimental
stripes, too. that make exceedingly
effective costumes for sports and for
country wear, and the dark blue with
a CLINT Of gold is favorite combina-
ton. Mention has been made in
previous letters Of the very extensive
vogue of the cape. The distinctly
military cape with its coat front has
been gaining steadily in favor. Today
it is shown not alone in the serviceable
serge that is admirable for travel and
for camping and 70, general wear but
in such materials as white satin for
use upon the piazza and for occasions
that call for dress Of similar sort.
1t is such a graceful model and such
handsome model that it is charming
in whatever fabric it is shown and let
It be added, it is very generally be-
coming model. 1t DISCUSSES the figure
Of the stout woman and one sees only
the long graceful lines, and it falls
about the slender and the sveIt with
consummate grace and charm.
The coat suit may fairly be said to
have come into, its own for the Spring
and Summer, and great many charm
ing ones are being made of silk while
favorite material is silk gabardine.
A handsome model that has just been
received from Paris is made with
skirt that shows plaits at the front
and the back with plain sides, and
coat with plated sides and collar
that rolls to the belt. but this coat is
not designed to be closed, it is left
open for few inches to reveal the
slip-over, long peplum blouse of white
silk jersey that is worn beneath and
this jersey blouse is finished with two
bands of gold at the lower edge and
on the deep flarins cuffs which are
turned out over the coat when that
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

outer edges. The line OF small perfora-
tons that is nearest each edge indi-
Gates the basting line and that line
is most important, therefore. mark it
with care. Mark all your perforations
and notches. You ran do this either
with the tailor's tacks that have been
described frequently or you can do it
with little colored crayon and after
removing the pattern pin through to
the underside then make the second
markings.
The pattern envelope directs you to
hem the right side and to finish the
left for an undertaking, and that is
quite correct, for any material that is
not transparent, but for the wolfe it
will be better to allow one inch on each
back edge Of your lining, Of your
blouse and over blouse; then you can
make an inch hem on each, turning
under the first time one-half inch and
the second time one inch and when
you lap them you will have the two
sides exactly alike.
Finish the back edges Of the lining
with the hens. Bring the two lines
Of peforations that indicate each
dart together at the front of the
lining On the wrong side and stitch
on the pertorations, then turn the
darts toward the under-arm edges
and stitch fat. Close the shoulder
and under-arm seams, and for these
and all other seams use the double
seams, first narrow seam on the
right side and a second seam on the
wrong side taken on the basting line.
As the next step finish the back
edges of your blouse exactly as you
have done those OF the lining, then
close both the shoulder and the
under-arm seams. Gather the neck
edge of the front and the neck edge of
the back between the crosses and again
on the circles and again between to get
the pretty shirred effect. Then gather
the blouse at the lower edge and ar.
range it over the lining with the lower
edge at the circles, the under-arm, the
shoulder seams and the back edges
meeting and haste carefully into place.
To make the pulled sleeves, gather
at both upper and lower edges between
the crosses on the lines of circles.
Measure the arm-holes of the blouse
and measure the arms of the wearcr.
Draw the upper gathers up to the size
Of the arm-holes and the two lower
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24
The Coat is a Necessity This Season.

rows OF gathers to fit the arms. Cut
three bands of material for each sleeve
one inch in width and each the length
Of the gathers after you have drawn
them up. Turn the edges under to
make the bands one-half inch in width.
then arrange one band over the gathers
at the center Of each sleeve and stitch
the edges into place, arrange one over
and one under the gathers at the lower
edge Of each sleeve. Basic carefully
and stitch the upper edges into place.
Close the seams Of the sleeves. For
the frills, cut straight strips Of material
two inches in width and once and one
halt the length of each band. Finish
the lower edges with narrow hens and
gather at the upper edges. Draw up
to the size of the bands and slip
between TIE two thicknesses to the
width Of the seam. Basic and stitch
through both sections Of the band and
fills. Basic the sleeves to the arm
holes with the notches exactly meeting
and the single circles at the shoulder
seams and hold the sleeves toward you
while you basic. Take the seams up
on the right side and stitch very
narrow seam, then remove your bast-
ings, turn on the wrong side and stitch
again on the basting line. Turn the
ecams under the blouse and tack to the
shoulder seams. For the over-blouse,
join the shoulder and the under-arm
edges and finish the back edges As you
have already done tor the lining and for
the blouse. Finish the neck edge, the
front edges and the arm-hole edges in
any way the you like. Make eyelets
on each side OF the front and lace
Then gather at the lower edge between
the double crosses, Lock at the under
side. of the lining and you will notice
a single large circle at each side Of the
center front. Pin through these to the
blouse, then arrange your over-blouse
over the blouse and let the front edges
come exactly at these pins and haste
into place.
Close the back seam Of the skirt
below the notches and finish the edges
above with narrow hens. Turn the
lower edge under on the perfolations
that indicate the seam. Turn the outer
edge under for one-half inch and hem
on the first line of circles. Arrange
trimming bands over the three lines
of circles. Sew both edges into place
by hand, then gather the skirt on the
circles that indicate the seam between
double crosses. and again on the row
OF larger circles, then third time mid
way between these two rows of gathers
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

garment is worn. The neck Of the
blouse also is finished with rolling
collar and that collar is turned out
over the one Of the coat. The bit OF
white and the CLINT Of gold on the black
background are very charming. and.
as a matter Of course, the idea can be
carried out in blue or in gray or in any
one Of the favorite colors. It 10 a
season of quiet tones for street wear.
gray and beige and tan and brown
and the like are favorites and the
treatment will be suggestive for one
and for all. There has been something
Of return to waistcoats, too. and
great many Of the wool suits are worn
with waistcoats Of white pique that
are exceedingly chic. A favorite model
is cut to form deep point at each side
Of the front and is finished with high
f1aring collar. 1t suits the severe tail
ored suit perfectly and it has just that
little hint Of the military suggestion
that is constantly cropping up in one
way or another.
There is an evident return to the
favorite separate blouse. We shall
wear great many blouses Of thinner
material with heavier skirts and since
there never was more thoroughly q
satisfactory or comfortable costumess
for warm weather, the return is well
come. The best dressed women at the
Spring resorts established the vogue
and it already has met with enthu-
siastic general response. For morning
wear, for sports and for occasions Of
such sort, cotton and linen materials
are the best and wolfe and handker-
chief lawn are having great vogue
For the afternoon you can, Of course.
use crepe de chine and Georgette crepe
and ae dainty materials as you like for
the separate blouses and skirts. In
great many instances the Oioueeo are
touched with the material Of the
skirt to give the costume idea. although
that treatment is not essential. What
makes the smartness of these b)ouses
is the care with which they are made,
the hand sewing the dainty material
and finish of the sort. They are essen
TALLY simple garments and the skirts
that accompany them are made with
marked simplicity, although often |
very handsome materials are utilized
the so-called sports costumes, in Il
Q that is curious a q for we
d IN rich in effect although il Is
Labeled washable, utilized for ths skirt
to be worn for sports.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

HE Summer Is essentially the
childrens season. 1t is so de-
slightful to live out of doors and
to romp and to play and to roll and
TO toss, and as matter Of course they
must have suitable clothing. No
mother can be 60 cruel as to hamper
their free movements by anything 80
prosaic As a garment, and happily
fashion has declared for simplicity
as the smartest Of all things and that
freedom is an absolute necessity to
style. In the group above are shown
some very good examples Of Summer
frocks and suits. If they are followed
the little folk will be entirely happy
and at the same time quite correctly
CARRIED. The best dressed mothers
look to it that their children's cos
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24
tCirl's Dress, 10 to IA yexrA
PRICE 10 CENTS.

The envelope that accompanies the
pattern provides two diagrams. One
shows the parts laid out on material
thirty-six inches wide; if your ma
terial is wider or narrower you will
have to vary the placing little, but.
nevertheless, the diagram makes an
excellent guide for it shows you Just
how each piece should be arranged.
For the wolfe. the lining preferably
would be made Of white net and it
is vital to shrink this net before cut
ting. The second diagram shows you
how the pieces are to be put together,
and if you follow the directions that
will be given here and study these dia-
grams it should be the simplest thing
in the world to make the dress.
As the first step, smooth out your
pattern and identify the pieces by the
diagram. Then fold the material
lengthwise and lay the pattern out and
pin it into place. All the seams are
allowed. therefore. you cut along the
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

The cloak fills an important place
in the seasons wardrobe. In fact, the
smart cloak is really vital to its sue
cess, and there is an attractive and
interesting variety offered. Without
doubt, the so-called military cape is
favorite and it is shown in the pic
ture above made Of dark blue bolivia
cloth lined with foulard silk. blue
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

THERE is q certain attractive
quaintness about the frock shown
here that is sure to appeal both
. to the mother and to the young wearer.
The little over-bodice is laced at the
front even while it closes at the back
and the pulled sleeves are quite I'M
usual and they make charming effect.
yet altogether the dress is very
simple one and very easy one to
make. In the picture, the skirt and
the under-blouse are made OF fine
white French wolfe and the over-bodice
Is made of the same material with
little flower design.
The skirt consists of just a straight
piece shirred at the upper edge and the
blouse and over-bodice are arranged
over a lining that holds them in place.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

material it will be converted to piazza
use and to evening use. You can make
it OF broadcloth and line it with white
satin to be very handsome, OF you
could make it Of wool jersey cloth
without lining if you want lighter
cape for daily needs, or you could make
it of pongee and line it with toulard
to make distinctly Summer garment.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-08-24

dotted with white. That combination
is smart one and also an attractive
one The bolivia cloth OF the season
is by no means heavy one, and the
silk is as thin as silk well could be.
but this is a model that can be used
for almost any occasion. II it is made
Of a serviceable material it is adapted
to harder usage. If it is made OF daintier
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
TALK OF PEACE"
SAYS JOHN SHARP
"When There Is No Peace-QuOtes
Patrick Henry il Letter to Exalt-
ed Ruler e.. A. Wilson, Jr.

Mr.. George A. Wilson, Jr., Exalted
Ruler, B.. P. O.. Elks, has receiv-
ed a letter from Senator John Sharp
Williams relative to the message re-
Gently sent to him containing the res
o~lutions adopted by the local Elks.
Senator Williams quotes Patrick Hen
~ in the lines which the Senator later
used in his address in the Senate fay
ing Senator LaFollette, "Talk of
Peace, When There is no Peace"
Following is a copy of the letter:
Washington, D. c., April 3, 1917.
Mr.. G.. A. Wilson, Jr., Greenwood,
Miss.
Dear George:
"The telegram of the first, signed
by you and Mr.. Cox, as secretary, at
hand. l shall convey the contents of
the resolution to the President, who
will receive it apprcciatively, as l can
assure you. AS Patrick Henry said,
""Talk of Peace, when there is no
Peace!" Already upon the high seas
the enemy has drowned our citizens
and sunk our ships.
JOHN SHARP WILLIAMS"
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
UNCLE SAM NEED NOT WORRY
ABOUT AIRPLANES.

Washington, April 5-(By Union
Associated Press)-The little trouble
that Uncle Sam has been having with
Germany has developed many resour-
ces that the people of the country
have w dreamed of, to say nothing
of having a definite knowledge about.
For instance, the War Department is
now advised that the airplane indus
try of this country a turn out in a
year-this year Of 1914 maximum
of 600 airplanes. The largest of the
machines cost about $4,000. In war
time each plane in the air would need
three in reserve, besides one broken
up in training the pilot. With 1000
PLANES in the air therefore would be
needed 5000 in reserve, or 10000 in
all. The United States turns out the
best training planes there are and is
selling quantities of them to belliger-
ents in Europe today.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
PETITION FOR r D

To The Governor Of State of MISS.
sippi:
Your petitioner, Jim Matthews, a
citizen of Greenwood, Lefore County
Mississippi, would respectfully show
that he al indicted and convicted on
q charge Of murder at the January
1917, term Of Circuit Court. of lie.
fore County, Mississippi, and sen
fenced to life Imprisonment in he
State P~enitentiary.
Your petitioner would show furh-
er that said conviction was wrongful
and unjust in this: that your petition
er at the time he killed deceased, did
so to prevent the deceased from kin
ing one Ed Perry, who was at the
time being assaulted and about to lie
killed by the deceased when petition
er killed the said deceased. Also de-
ceased had threatened to take the life
of petitioner just the day before and
was armed and would have killed
petitioner after he had killed the said
Perry, had he not been killed by pc
titioner, he therefore, prays for a
pardon.
Respectfully submitted,
JIM MATTHEWS.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
JEWELERS. LIKE 'EM SHORT.

Denver Cor. New York World.)
For the jeweler, one prospect of
prosperity relieves the gloom of soar
ing prices, scarcity Of material, delay
in shipments and all the ills that beset
the war-harried lapidary. Insbrief, if
skirts will stay short it may make up
for the shortage in precious stones, &C
cording to the announcement at the
ninth annual convention Of the Colo
RADIO jewelers. Association, in session
here.
"The shorter the skirt the better for
u.s." said one of the members.
And why? Because" replied Fred
Lyman, of Denver, "the sale of ankle
watches has been increased from SO
to Is per cent. since skirts went up"
But this is not all. There is anoth-
er article of jewelry affected by brief
dress. 1t is known as the vanity band.
1t is apt to include a purse, a powder
box, a mirror and perhaps a cigarette
last and a match safe. 1t is orn
we'll, where little boys with long stock
ings wear garters.
"Many of them worn?'
eff the skirts get a little shorter
said one of the jewelers., "you will be
surprised to discover how many of
them we SELL"
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
RUSSIANS PLAN TO RETURN TO
HELP NEW GOVERNMENT.

Pittsburgh. April 5-tEy Union As
zoei2tea Fress}-As soon as possibly
5hey car get away, about 200 Russian
working unen in this district are
planning to return to their native land
- give Il such assistance as they can
perfecting a new government. Until
they leave the United States the work
ers will send all the aid possible to pa
triotic societies in Russia. A commit
tee has been formed which will visit
all sections of the United States
where large numbers of Russians are
gathered and urge them to go home at
the earliest possible moment and as
sist with the work of building up a
new system, SO that all might partici-
plate in it's benefits.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
VARDAMAN DID
NOT WEAR FLAG
Along With LaFollette When Con-
gress Assembled to Hear Presi.
dent Wilson's Address.

The following is from the New York
Times Of April 3rd, taken from it's
special correspondents description Of
the scene in the Hall Of Representa-
tives a few minutes before the Pres
ident began the delivery of his epoch
making war message:
"Then the doors opened, and in
came the Senators headed by Vice
President Marshall, each man wearing
or carrying a small American flag.
There were three or four exceptions,
including Senators LaFollette and
Vardaman, but one had to look hard
to find them, and Senator Stone was
no exception. It was at 1892 that they
came in, and five minutes later the
Speaker announced, The President Of
the United States!'"
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
NOTICE TO CONTRACTORS.

The Board Of Supervisors Of Le-
fore County, Mississippi, will receive
bids or proposals on Monday, April
%, 1917; at a Special meeting of said
Board to be held for such purpose,
for improving the public roads in said
county as follows:
Humphreys Highway from Green
wood to Lucas Gin, 43 miles.
Humphreys Highway from Lucas
Gin to Shell Mound, 5.4 miles.
The said Highway to be covered
with concrete, asphaltic concrete, or
penetration method of asphaltic treat
ment.
From Shell Mound to Schlater, TIP
miles.
From Schlater to Sunny Side, 5.66
miles.
From Sunny Side to Minter City,
4.5O miles.
From Minter City to Tallahatchie
County, 4.49 miles.
From Greenwood to Sidon, 9.12
miles.
From Sidon to Carroll County, 4.95
miles.
New roadway to be constructed and
surfaced with concrete, concrete as
phalt, gravel treated with asphalt, or
plain gravel.
From Schlater to Sunflower Coun-
Ity, 6.73 miles.
From Itta Bena to Berclair, 3.O1
miles.
From Itta Bena to Quito, 500 miles.
From Quito to Morgan, 7.99 miles.
From Morgan, south, to County line,
1910 miles.
From Quito to Roebuck Bridge, 3.74
miles.
From Itta Bena to Woodruff bridge,
1900 miles.
From Greenwood to Carroll County
via Cortner place, 7.60 miles.
From Greenwood to Carroll Coun-
ty via Bright place, 6.1O miles.
From Shell Mound to Dodd's Ferry,
11.87 miles.
From Sidon to Shell Bluff Bridge,
via Southworth, 600 miles.
From Guide to Morgan-Swift road,
7.19 miles.
To be constructed of gravel; accord
ing to plans and specifications on file
in the Office of the clerk of said Board.
Bids or proposals will be received
for the whole or any part of said
work.
Each proposal shall be accompanied
with a certified check for S 1000. 90,
and bond will be required of the sue
cessful bidder as required by law.
The Board reserving the right to
reject any and all bids.
This March 22nd, 1917. ,
(Seal.) A. r. BEW, Clerk.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
MARYLAND MILK SITUATION
NEARING CRISIS.

Baltimore, Nd, April Shy Union
Associated Pressl-Owing to the high
price of feed many dairymen of the
state are being driven out of business.
They r losing money in Baltimore
and Carroll counties and are paying
$45 a ton for feed. They receive 10
cents a gallon for milk and pay 2
cents freight. Bad roads in many
sections is also credited with keeping
the hauling prices high. A stampede
to get out of the dairy business is i'm
minent and a great shortage of the
milk supply for the city may come
soon. *
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
BRAZIL WILL JOIN,
(By Associated Press)

London, April 6-Anti-G German ex-
element in Rio .Janeiro is intense as
a result of the sinking of the Brazil
ian steamship, Parana, according to
a Buenos Aires dispatch. The minis
ter Of foreign affairs says the situa-
ton is very grave. It is generally
expected, the dispatch says, that Bra
zil will seize informed German ships
in her ports and proclaim the exist
ence of hostilities.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
NEW YORK SELLS s25,ooo,ooo
BONDS.
- -

Albany, N. Y, April Shy Union
Associated Press)-The State of New
York placed on sale at the Control
ler's office today ffty-year per cent,
state gold bonds, amounting to $685.
100000. The bonds are exempt from
all taxation, are legal investments for
trust funds and are issued in coupon
or registered form. The first $1O,-
100000 is for canal improvements,
the second $4,000, 900 for highways
and s2,50o.0o0 for the Palisades In
.terstate and Forest Preserve parks,
respectively.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
Notice 70 Lumber Dealers.

Notice TO Lumber Dealers.
The Board of Supervisors Of LIE.
fore County, Mississippi, will receive
bids on the first Monday in April
1877. for lumber for refiooring high
way bridges as follows: Red Gum
White Oak Gall heart), Long Leaf
Pine and Cypress (85 per cent. heart)
in the following sizes: 8 inches thick
and from 6 inches to 8 inches in width,
16 feet long. All No. l Common, il
car load lots, not exceeding five cars,
to be delivered at Greenwood or Mon
ey Stations in said County, az said
Board may direct.
This March s, 1917.
A. r. BEW, Clerk.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11

Klo Janssfta AprTl THE captain
of the tors Eravlzsn steamship
Farana cas.es x II assaition to the
three merrsaags u hss eaNr killed sew
eral others 49, WOUNDED by the ex-
ploslon- s t,,a4 tie ship was
attacke az FRssesa a,ut warning
and denouiaeas ae eess3taet Of the Ger
mans as b~araarr axsat excitement
prevails Ii bEazIl.
The commonwealth. (Greenwood, Miss.) 1896-1923, 1917-04-11
ASBURY PARK IS
SWEPT BY FIRE
More Than = Score of Hotels and
Boarding Houses Wiped Out
Loss Of $500, OOO.
(By Associated Press)

Asbury Park, April 6-Four city
blocks were swept by fire in the heart
of the hotel district here today with
the loss of 100000. More than a
score of hotels and boarding houses
were destroyed.