Americus times-recorder. [volume] (Americus, Ga.) 1891-current, 1917-11-02

Paris has accentuated the endeavor
to make the human figure look like
a lead pencil The French eorsets
OF this season are built as straight
as medieval cutless.
The eoarselet effect, in truth, is the
dominating feature of the majority Of
frocks. The First Empire waistline is
brought in by many of the designers
in order to accentuate the lack d
waist. Even the jackets for street
suits drop in straight lines from the
shoulders to the hips, unless they,
like some bodices on frocks, carry out
the surplice effect.
The extraordinarily wide girdles OF
this season accentuate the Egyptian fig
ure. Nine. Paquin, Lanvin, Cheruit,
and Doeuillet are apt to use two or
three narrow girdles to mark the mid
die of the figure, but Jenny, Martial
et Armand, Worth, and Bernard are
rot so economical in their girdles.
1t is a bit difficult to know exactly
what France has decided upon in the
way of proper neckline. She puts il
forth as her decree that the collar
shall be exceedingly high, but she has
fashioned any number of gowns hat
do not follow this decree. On street
suits the collars rise so high that they
are called the "cache-nez," or nose
coverings. There is the new trench
muffler, an apache cravat, and vos-
tilion collar of the eighteenth century
for the street; and for the house there
liee gowns that are buttoned to the
chin, with material going over the
top" Others have loose handkerchief
drapery, the fifteenth century Italian
collar, and the conventional high, roll
ing collar that shows a bit of neck
below the chin.
The Evening DecOlletage.
The same inconsistency appears in
evening gown. France laid down the
law that women were well-dress in
wartime when they wore high-neceked
gowns of transparent fabrics. America
liked this idea; it was a change from
all that had been in existence for
decades, yet after this question was
thoroughly settled to the pleasure of
everybody decollete gowns are project
ed that do credit to the most daring
dance clothes of peace times.
Even the conservative Jenny, who
satisfies the American people season
after season, turns out a barbaric
thing of jet on black tulle, with
girdle of green velvet embroidered
in gold that is made to serve as a
bodice by the addition of band of
jet at the top. 1t slopes downward
under the arms and over the back, and
is supposed TO held on by careless
shoulderstrap of jet bears.
The Abbreviated Skirt.
A very few of the new skirts sweep
the instep. The rest are frankly short,
A woman is allowed all the license
she wishes in this respect Street
suits have skirts that appear to be
simply two breadths of materials cut
off at the hem to allow the fullest dis
play of the highest boots made
There is a strong feeling abroad for
the elongated evening skirt. 1t does
not appear in the allot frocks, except
in the Cathedral model, but smart
women are insisting upon skirts that
almost touch the toes in front They
are so narrow that they are easily
/ wrinkled up over the ankles as the
wearer mover moves.
The distinguishing feature in brill
liant evening gowns is the gorgeous
black panel Sometimes it is fastened
to the shoulders and sweeps the floor
for a yard again it is tucked up at
the end of the spine. to suggest the
Vatican drapery. 1t serves as the
foundation for all the exaggeration OF
ornament that the French allow them
selves this season. The lining is a
brilliant shade of velvet or satin, to
contrast with the gown in front OF
lit.
Panels, by the way are dominat-
in2 features of the new fashions.
Jenny makes A gownof several panels
hanging over Turkish trousers. They
are held together at the waistline by
a loose sash in another color.
There are few novelties in fabrics.
Rodier's extraordinary duvetyn or We
lours de lane is the pronounced sue
cess of the season. elvet, duyetyn,
satin, and crepe de chine rule among
the ceremonial clothes; serge is used
by every house; lace, metallic tissue,
on5 fur hold their old Mace in the