The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-08-06
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS
 ANNE p,IHn,nos.u FOR WOMEN
By ANNE RITTENHOUSE
A seventeenth century gown with sen sational collar and cuffs has been introduced.

New York, August 5.-As far as one can find out about the new clothes that have been assembled in Paris for the American buyers. there is again the medieval touch. which calls for the eliminated waistline.
 Doeulett is the only celebrated French designer who has sent over collection of clothes to this country for the autumn Paul Poiret intended to come to this country in June in order to look owed the field and pos sibly make connections here for his French house; but the project fell through, and so did the opening of house in New York by Paquin, whicA was heralded.
 For good commercial reasons, Doe uilett of Place Volume was persuaded to send over 50 forerunners of autumn styles, and they have been ltberally shown to that trade which sells to the high class dressmakers supplementing the French models.
 In not one of these gowns does Doeuilett show a defined waistline. He slings to the straight line from shoul- der to knees. and when he uses belts, they are put there for the purpose of ornamentation. and not for gathering in the fullness of the frock.
 AGAIN THE CUIRASS EFFECT In these gowns, Doeuilett varies the tunic with the cuirass of the middle ages It is so modified in form that one realizes 1t is an exceedingly mod ern adaptation of a one time awkward accessory to a costume. Taking this as a symptom of what may come to us in September from the French houses, it is wise to be forewarned that the | eltz. eA. rlxyIG | This cuirass idea is gaining strength every month. As a separate garment, 1 except in fur or in some material that serves for sport costume, it is not att | tractive. A woman who appeared on l the stage the other night in black | lace gown which had cuirass of clair | de lune seuuins. made the audience l quickly aware that the gown was | a failure. Against it was worn cos
 tune of extraordinary beauty created
 by Lucille, which has sunset orange l tunic dropped over sapphire blue se- | quins. This costume was purely fan l tistic, but the expert in dress was able l to make an interesting comparison be- l tween the glittering, applied cuirass
 and the straight tunic which was a | part of the gown.
 l Therefore if one is to wear the i cuirass this year, it must be carefully handled When embodied In the gown,
 melted and nodded into 1t as a part of l it. then it is effective. Worn as 1t was worn in medieval days by male war l riors, it looks well only In certain fan tastic clothes, especially those intend l ed for the house.
 HIGH COLLAR; DEEP CUFFS | The sketch shows a costume which ! has just been put out for the fall. It shows the cuirass effect in burnt yell
 low ribbed silk or high-necked, long 1 sleeved frock of yellow chiffon.
 The. high collar and the deep cuffs
 against this type of gown make the l costume look as though it were lifted | from the seventeenth century. Both
 these accessories are of will wisp l lawn edged with stripes of lace. They're not boned to stand as they do;
 the quality of the material and the starch put into them contribute to their upright position.
 The significant thing about this col