Evening star., 1917-01-07
Tourist Rush to Rh@ims Cathedral Has Started

cannot be denied. Only the cathedra
quarter has been aimed at.
Inside Rheims cathedral!
The roof and walls are riddled witt
thing that could burn and cracked the
carved stone. There were heavy lum.
Der repair scaffoldings. and this was
known-otherwise, why send fire shells
to stone cathedral?
More than 1.500 shells have entered
the cathedral. Nearly $4,000 shells have
fallen round about it. Great breaches
are here and there. Even the floor is
torn UP. The bombardment of the
cathedral has never ceased. Every now
and then it begins again-not to
destroy it utterly. but piecemeal: here
ened. here a flying buttress sent flying,
there a new smash in the stained glass
windows. 1t is like a child nibbing
round the edge of a cake You know
what finally happens to the cake. The
last Each shot into Rheims cathedral
hits the heart Of France.
"Only the cathedral quarter" we
Pardon" says Capt. Talamon, cheer
fully, there is another. II you please.
gentlemen. we will take the automo-
biles."
They take US to the ruins of the Hotel
Dieu.
1t is the illustrioue old royal hos
pital Of Rheims. completely gutted-the
third glory of Rheims. Old kings built
IT. grandiose and beautiful as a mem
orial to ad5oin the antique Church of
st. Remi. which is precious pre-
Gothic basilica, landmark of Christiani-
ty. pearl of rare architecture in whose
foundations. at least. Clovis was
baptized.
In August, 1916. the Germans began
Rheims-in a straight line, fore and
aft. with the Church of St. Remi.
tell what I have seen. So far the
Hotel Dieu. adjoining It, built into 1t,
swaths Of bombardment are there. They
go in straight lines. unmistakable. to
the three historical and architectural
giories OF Rheims-the cathedral, st.
Remi and the Hotel Dieu
On which, we go to tho Hotel du
Nord for lunch.
The fish was fresher than in Paris
coming direct in refrigerator cars
rom from the sea; The roast ducks were
Rheims. with the hot tartlets. cheese
fruits and crude champagne. which does
not bubble. make one admire the feed
Ing of the front
Is 1t the front?
The lunch goes leisurely. The French
olhcers discuss Romanesque and Gothic
stained glass, Joan of Arc. plain chant
and gastronomy. Visitors. anxious for
the trenches, listen and hold their pa :
tience. Don't disturb the officers in
their one good hour of leisurei
Do you think so? You are ali wrong.
There is deep diplomacy, and the CAP
tains who appear SO debonnair are
really heart strained for their party
of tourists. watching the clock furtive-
ly and waiting for message. Are the
trenches safe this afternoon? Aye,
there's the question.
The proof is that on a quiet after
noon the party of women which / mem
toned at the beginning got started
promptly after three-qnarters Of an
hour at lunch. spent three hours romp-
ing in the f1rst-line trenches. talked to
poilus. touched machine guns and saw
an aeroplane battle.
And l know a party of men who were
delayed. tempted with hot tartlets (not
on the bill of fare). coffee, liqueurs
cigars and charmed with first-class
conversation. so that they never saw
the first-line trenches. They missed
the big gun batteries when they were
getting lively. apa~>thes-wound up
the remainder of their afternoon, till
dusk. in the cellars OF the champagne
STERLING HEILlo.