The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-08-20
DRESS AND. SUGGESTIONS ANNE p,Isa,"or.. FOR WOMEN
By ANNE RITTENHOUSE
Short jackets, tight at the hem and fastened in a straight line from the neck, will replace flaring jackets with reveres.


 New York, August 19-Those who write from Paris are placing stress upon the change in jackets. They realize that the plain, narrow skirt will be sufficiently universal in octo- Der to convince everyone that fullness and flounces are dead.
 The change in the jacket. however, which will be as convincing as the narrow skirt. Is more startling to the majority of women because they have not looked toward an abrupt reversal of silhouette from hips to neck.
 There are two reasons for narrow ness and simplicity in all garments. One is a strong determination not 10 waste fabric any more than food, and the other is a necessary origination to persuade women to buy new clothes this autumn and keep the sewing girls In bread and butter.
 The coat suit, as it will appear Tn America in September, will be quite as revolutionary as the suit that will come over from Paris and be put on exhibi October.
 It is as slim and flat as a planked shad. There is not superfluous inch of material in it. It may belong to youth. but it will be worn by middla age. The lines will be so straight over the waist and hips that ample curves will be partially concealed and this trick of dressmaking meets with glad reception from those who have not been able to reduce themselves to the dimensions of pencil.
 THE GOWN LIKE A COAT
 The change in coats will compel youthfulness, if it is accepted. There is every reason to believe that this boyish garment. cut off at the hips, slightly pulled in at that line, buttoned straight up the front to the neck and finished with a high, loose collar, will be the ruling jacket of next season.
 It is quite q while since we have had the jacket that buttons itself straight up to the neck and the high collar that envelops the chin. Our reveres and collars of the last few years have been something important; they have been accessories that have caused extra work on the part Of the tailors and a new trick here and there has been advertised as a bit of genius.
 AGAIN THE FRONT BUTTONS
 Now, France takes hold of the Amer ican army coat as an outline of what is to be worn, minus the belt. She tells us to fasten it straight up the front, stand the collar high and wear beneath it blouse or not, as one will
 The majority of these jackets have an ornamental hem to draw attention to the fact that the hip-line is mar row and that the jacket has decided not to drop down to the knees
 Drecoll sends over a suit which is shown in the sketch today It is of dull green velour the new fabric for coat suits, and he uses hem of the material rolled back like a sport cuff. The skirt is exceedingly narrow. There is no pretense of pleats, gathers or trimming at the hem. It is a bit of cloth sewed together at the sides and put into a band, with the least amount of fullness necessary to comfort.
 The coat, with it's line of buttons and high ornate collar, is the only part of the costume that tries to enliven the whole When these suits are made iii the new colors, such as myrtle green, wine red, Russian brown and terra cot ta, they do not need ornamentation; they are sufficient unto themselves.
 Copyright by the Mcclure Newspa- per Syndicate.)