davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
Hiqh-Priced Oressmakers Want
Something Different From
That Sod in Shops.
WARY IN ADOPTING DESIGN
Those Who Cater to Exclusive Sets
Refuse to Accentuate Barrel En-
fect-Short Jacket has Settled
Place in Fashions.

New YOrk-There is real struggle
between the barrel or pegtOp skirt and
the one that hangs plumb from waist
TO ankles. 1t is not necessary TO lnul-
cate that the lines are drawn between
the exclusive. high-priced dressmaEers
and the shops. in the battle 10 produce
the most fashionable skirt.
There is, oStensibly, Il feeling among
the women and men who cater to Il fas-
tidiouS and conservative clientele, that
whatever the manufacturers nave put
out in large numbers should be avoided
by them. This feeling is not based on
any bitterness or rivalry between the
two concerns; ii is really il reelection
on the patrons of these exclusive
places. 1t is not possible for dress
makers who hold their heads high in
prices to sell in bulk; they must make
their money from the individual, not
from the mass. and there is Il strong
and growing feeling among the patrons
of specially plates that they Will not
wear the gowns which are seen in shop
windows. and especially those which
are manufactured by the hundreds anu
sold throughout the trade. These woln-
en- want French models or gowns that
cannot be initiated and sold by the
dozen for less than so.
When the barrel skirt was first eX-
plotted on this side of the ocean, the
sem-annual openings in Paris had not
taken place, and the majority of dress
makers insisted that they would not
answer for the success of the peg-top
or oval silhouette. as one chooses to
call it, because it was not probable that
Paris would show it later in the sea-
son, and equally improbable that fas-
tidious patrons would want to pay a
large price for a style that had been
run to the ground through wholesale
distribution.
Theory Fell Flat.
This argument was plausible and
ii influenced those who handled the
sO-called barrel skirt; but this built
up theory proved to be a house of
of the semi-annual Paris openings,
where the peg-tOp skirt, or oval sill
hOuette, was featured in every prom
inent house.
The flare went out of hens rs sud
denly as q flash of lightning leaves
the sky. Circular skirts remained In
fashion, but they were attenuated and
simplified. The hens dropped down
from one to four inches, and the
straight line of machine pleating came
into fashion. The French gowns al
displayed a tendency to be held In al
the hem in some manner. and the
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

UOIIIC CtUUbI4V 3 C1I
relief ard six bottles have entirely
cured me. All women who have female
trouble of any kind should try Lydia E.
Pinkhar's Vegetable Compound. -
Mrs. ETA DoRIoN, Ogdensburg, Wis.
Physicians undoubtedly did their best,
battled with this case steadily and could
do no more, but often the most scientific
treatment is surpassed by the medicinal
properties of the good old fashioned
roots and herbs contained in Lydia +.
Pinkham's Vegetable Compound.
If any complication exists it pays to
write the Lydia e. Pinkham Medicine
Co, Lynn, Mass. for special free advice.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

From the United States Department of
ASriculture)
Did il ever occur To you that nature
requires her children to take an an
nual vacation? She does, and nowhere
do human beings puzzle their brains
over this fact more than when the
hens begin their yearly holiday. This
vacation is technically called the
"molting season" Ii begins during
the late summer. The hens stop lay
ing, and change their suits of feathers
for new ones. Usually they consume
three or four months in the process.
Most of us know this perfectly well,
but are apt To overlook the fact that
very important feature of the mott
ing period is that egg-laying stops.
We are unreasonable and expect the
hens to lay all the time. When the
hens take this vacation new-laid fresh
eggs are scarce and remain scarce I'M
til the pullets Matched during the pre-
ceding spring begin to lay.
The Remedy.
The remedy is very simple. and is
under the control of the pOultryman.
The first step is to have chickens
Matched early, 50 that the pullets begin
to lay when the hens begin to mOlt.
This is not difficult. Pullets of the
American breeds begin laying ut about
seven months of age. Leghorn rullets
begin when about six months old.
North of the Ohio river this means
that all Matching must be over by
May l at the latest. The best plan Is
to have the chickens coming at inter
walls during March and April. The
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
DIRECTS NAVAL AFFAIRS

JOsephus Daniels, secretary of the
navy, Is one man on whom the eyes of
the whole world are turned today.
From Raleigh, n. Can inland
city-he was made President Wilson's
navy chief. He has to start the build
ing of these newly authorized war
ships-three battleships, one battle
cruiser, three scout cruisers, fifteen
destrOyers, thirty-eight submarines,
one destroyer tender and one subma-
rine tender.
He has to finish these other naval
vessels previously authoriZed-seven
battleships, five battle cruisers. seven
scout cruisers, thirty-five destrOyers,
forty-eight submarines, one destroyer
tender, one submarine tender, one hos
pital ship, one fuel ship, one ammuni-
tpn ship, and one gunbOat.
With shipbuilding being over
worked, with shortage Of skilled Ia
Dor, he has to get all Of these vessels
built efficiently and quickly. At his
disposal have been placed specific ap
by far the largest sum ever appropriate
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
Ponqee For Spring.

Pongee seems to be Il spring surety.
But the ponaee of this spring will be
more interesting than the pongee Of
the other seasons when it has been
worn. Much of 1t will he printed with
vivid dots Oh plain pongee back
ground. There will be strips of vivid
green, blue and red, and when 1t Is
used plain it will be trimmed wildly.
In fact, though neutral cOlors, grays
and tans, are to be used extensively
for suits this spring, they are all going
to be trimmed lavishly with brilliant
colored braids, ribbons and buttons.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
CAREFUL SELECTION OF SEED
Many Corn Failures Might Have Been
Turned Into Success by Using
Selected Ears.

Nothing else would so cheaply turn
many corn failures into successes as
good seed corn.
While knowledge OK corn breeding
would be helpful, any farmer can do
much toward supplying himself and his
neighbOrhood with better seed corn
by starting with well-tested variety
and selecting the best ears from the
best stalks every year. BY so doing,
the unfit.
Where corn is grown for grain, there
is no better locality from which &c
obtain seed than that in which it is
to be planted.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
USES FOR FARM IMPLEMENTS
Disk Harrow and Duck-Foot CuItiva.
tor Superscdes Spring Tooth Har-
row in Preparing Soil.

The spring tooth harrow has been
largely superseded in the West by
the disk harrow and duck-foOt cult
vator. Tie action of the spring tooth
depth of from three to four inchss aft
or the land was plOwed. If the soil is
too solid to be cultivated with the or
binary drag harrow, the disk will be
found to be much more effective than
the aforementioned harrow. If the
control of weeds is the problem. the
duckfoot cultivatOr will give better
results than this type of harrow.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
WAR IS DECLARED
ON PEG-TOP SKIRT

those they had brought over were dou-
BILE first cousins, if not sisters.
Yet, against this fact, the dressmak-
ers who cater to exclusive sets ar in
sisting that the peg-top silhouette is
to be taken up warily and not accen-
tuated.
All the dressmakers are willing to
take material from the skirts or to
hold whatever material they use in a
narrow, hobbled band at the instep
They weight the hem so that it will not
flare, but they do not pull the skirt out
or shape it over the hips in any ex'
IRENE manner.
There is little need of OriginatiOn OF
this side of the water, as far as skirts
are concerned, because France, through
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
new POTATO DISEASE
Prevalent Last Season in Vari-
GUS Sections of the East.
Applications Of Potash or Manure to
Soil Recommended IL Either Are
Observation-Disclosures Expected
Again This Year.

(F'rom the United States Department OF
Agricuture.)
A potato disease appearing On GER
tain soils and apparently aSsoclated
with the lack OF potash in the CONNER
cial fertilizers used was prevalent last
summer in various sections of the East.
According to specialists of the bureau
of plant industry, United States de-
partment of agriculture, the trouble
was largely controlled by the use OF
stable manure. The disease may be eX-
pected to appear again with Increased
severity during the coming season
in many potato-growinS sections, from
Maine to Virginia, and probably also
farther south. Ii was first noted in
scattered fields in 1918. In 1916 it be-
csme serious and general over conSld-
cradle areas. Last year the disease
WAS first observed late in June IN
MARYLAND and Virginia, and during the
latter part of July in Maine. Inc
affected plants first develop Il down
ward rolling of the leaf margins, ac-
companied by Il peculiar brOnzlnS Oh
the surface, sometimes mistaken Tor
spray injury. Since il occurs on I'M
| sprayed as well as on sprayed plants,
| If cannot be due to the corrosive ac-
| ton of sprays. The foliage Sradu-
ally turns brown-not yellow-anu Inc
plant ripens premature!y. Death OF
the leaves and sudden collapse OF the
stems at the ground level follow. The
Weld, of course. is much reduced.
Where Disease Is Found.
The disease is found more common
| ly on fields of early-maturing varieties
lut is not restricted to them. II alSI
appears first on early planted FIELDS.
What is more striking is the very ap
parent association of the trouble VIII
certain soil types. at least in Maine
where this relation, as well as othel
features of the trouble, are being ihves
tigated by the department experts II
cooperation with the Maine aSricul
tural experiment station.
Soils which. originally supported tn
growth of soft woods, or mixed
growth lands" developed the diseased
condition in its most severe type, whll
the hardwood ridges showed it least
NOT at all. The trouble appeared mrs
i'm the swaleS or lOwlandS, where I'll
natural drainage was not so go0d Il
on the higher ridge land. When tn
disease appeared at all on the highe
ground, il was of IL less severe typ'
Specific fungi are frequently fouh
on the stems of the cOllapsing plant!
and some Of these most constantly see
before the disease-prOducing group
, Their relation to the trouble is beln
investigated, but the present Indie;
+ tons suggest that they are not the pr
mary cause but have attacked I'll
plants already seriously weakened b
other agencies.
g Experiments in Progress.
Fertilizer experiments in prOgre:
o on affected fields demonstrated tn;
s the plots receiving potash showed lit
or no signs of the trouble. even whel
= the other plots were entirely dea
y Stable manure also held the disease
almost complete control.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
NEWSPAPER MAN PROMOTED

George II. COOksey, former news
paper man, was named and sworn in
as assistant to the secretary of the
treasury, a post revived after more
than the lapse of a century. Mr..
Cooksey succeeds Tench Coke of Penn
sylvania, who was assistant to the
secretary of the treasury when Alex
ander Hamilton held that post in the
administration of George Washington.
Washington is the home and birth
place of Mr.. CDOksey. He has been
private secretary to the secretary of
the treasury for more than three years,
succeeding Byron II. Newton on the
latter's advancement to the post of
assistant secretary.
Mr.. Cookseyes the son of the late
Charles f. and S. V. COoksey of
Washington. He entered the service
of the Associated Press, in the Wash
ington bureau. in 1898, shortly after
the outbreak of the Spanish-American
war. He was with the Associated
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
The New Satin-SerQe.

Many of the smartest sports suits
are being made Of a double faced mate
rial, which is satin on the outer surface
and a soft wool twill beneath. This
material Is unexcelled for sports wear,
an II has the gloss Of silk while pos
sessing the necessary warmth and body
Of wool.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
A Good Description.

what does shad consist of, any
how?" asked the Western man who
had never eaten that kind of fish.
"Well," replied the Eastern expert,
ut is mostly backbone, wishbone, fun
nybone and then some"
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

Il
could make operation.
he the
pocket honest purchaser would have
oversight aroused CLERK lie
to
he Ia pull out
in his pocket
reelection In
concealed in Los Angeles and has been
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
HE WHIPPED CROWN PRINCE

Being a German-American, but at
the same time loyal American citi-
zen, Otto Ii. Krause isn't Boosting
about his extraordinary feat. but
there is Il bit of pride in his manner
when he says to his friends, Il am
probably the only man in the world
who ever licked the kaiser.
"Of course. Ii is some years ago
when Kaiser Wilhelm and l had our
little fisticuff," said Mr.. Krause, who
is n hotelkeeper and a former chief Of
Hackensack's fire department. II
really didn't know that the boy 1
whipped in 1866 was the German
prince, and was so angry at the time
/ did not care. My grandfather, Her
man Vogel, was at that time in charge
of the city waterworks at Potsdam,
and he gave me bouquet of flowers
TO take to the palace. On my way n
lad about my age, six years. grabbed
the flowers from my hand and pro-
ceeded to run away / caught him,
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
IN TIL ][ !r1ytlIdHT
FOE OF COUNTERFEITERS

The chief of the secret service,
John ]. Flynn, recently told of young
man who confined his operations to
federal reserve notes of low denomi
nations with temporary success. His
paper was so good that at first it was
even suspected that he might surrep-
tinuSly have obtained some of the gen
uine paper used by the government,
but this was soon proved to be not so.
His reproduction of "oneS" and "fveS
was so good that by travelling about
the country he was able 10 pass out
many of his spurious bills, to the great
annoyance of business men and with
considerable profit to himself, but his
fate was the common fate of all his
ilk." He played the game once toe
often.
This young man walked into q
jewelers. store in Santa Cruz. Cal, and
bought fountain pen for S2.3G. He
paid for it with one of his counterfeit
bills. walked out with his new pen and
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
Stands Much Abuse.

a good hen will get along with less
attention, put up with more neglect,
take better care Of herself and her
young. cash in on greater proper
ton of waste in her feed, than any
other farm live stock.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

French costume of green jersey with
collar of black satin and skirt Of
green and black Scotch plaid. The
skirt is narrow, and the sailor blouse
is without a belt and is fastened up
the front.
enough ideas in the matter of cutting
and draping skirts to last sensible
continent a whole year, let alone half
season.
Each designer in Paris had a fling
at an oval skirt. and each designer,
not resting content with one Origina-
ton, tried q hundred methods in as
many materials.
Whichever way one turns, there is
q new idea in skirts. So true is this
that, after going through the openings,
one rushes to tailor who makes man.
nish clothes, and. with feeling of
serenity and sigh of content, orders
plain, plated skirt that has nothing
about it to attract attention but fine
workmanship and the perfection of
straight line.
The Struggle In Jackets.
| There is no serious fight between
the long and the short jacket. and
there are not many original ideas in
coats. There are Americans who have
gladly turned to the tailOrs of this
country for ideas, because they did not
find what they wanted in the French
output.
Everyone was warned that Paris
could not produce stable assortment
of coat suits for this spring, on ac'
count of the scarcity Of men workers.
Some of the houses. notably Doeuillet
produced their usual quota of coats
and skirts for the American trade. but
the entire burden of cleverneSs, orig
inality and good workmanship was car
ried by the One-piece frOcks which, In
nearly all cases. had long coat tc
match.
The stress of French designing was
laid upon the gown with its coat, ant
not the short skirt with its short jack
ct. The French designers themselve:
said to the American buyers wher
they were there in February, that NJ
one produced the mannish coat ant
skirt to such perfection as the Ameri
can tailor. and that it seemed t.
France quite unnecessary to inven
much in that direction for people VIII
were past masters Of the art.
A few lines were laid down for gen
eral work, because America must hav
IFS silhouette from Paris, regardless o
. the way In which it twists and turn
|, it in this country. Therefore. the tight
. ly plated, straight skirt or the slight
{ circular skirt with three seams wa
offered with a short jacket, usual
trusting to it's collar and cuffs for Oril
inality.
{ Copyright, 1917 bv the Mcclure Newsps
l per Syndicate)
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

earliest hatched puIIcts will, OF course,
begin to lay first. If any of them be-
gin To mott, their places will be taken
by the later ones and a steady supply
of eggs will be more certain.
The Difficulty.
The difficulty in the way Of the prac-
teal application of this matter is that
so many poultry Keepers are depend
emf on hens for Matching. As long as
we have late Matched chickens we VIII
have late sitters. The poultry Keeper
who wants tn change from late hatch
Ing to early Matching must therefore
either get broody hens from someone
else or use an incubator. After he
has changed the dates" on his Hook
he will have no trouble. especially with
the American breeds.
Can 1t Be Done?
Every progressive poultry raiser who
has tried it, every agricultural col
Iege and the government, have data
showing that early Matching will pro
duce fall and winter layers. In the
government flock during the past win
ter the pullets of the entire flock av
eraged over 20 per cent in egg produc
ton, and some pens made 30 per cent
That means. in plain language, tina
the egg production for all the pullet'
WAS one egg daily for every five hens
and for some pens one egg daily fo
every three hens. This, too. wheI
fresh eggs sold up to 20 cents pc
dozen In Washington. This could no
have been done except by early hatch
ing.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

pains Inc d Mile
through my back
and side. l finally
lost all my strength
so l had to go to
bed. The d o tor
advised en- oper-
alton but l would
mot listen to it. l
| thought &C what l
lhaGrcad about Lydia
~. Pinkham's Vege-
table Compound and
tried it. The frs
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

the of private
secretary which he has held until
Calower Washington whom
married children, r. Jr; Annie w.
Charles F., Harry j, and Joseph E. Cooksey
salary $4,000
tina The began
].
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

Investigations of the trouble by the
department are incomplete, but the
present indications are that it Is due
to insufficient potash, or, perhaps. in
some soils at least, to an excess OF
ntrates in the presence of mini
mum potash supply. Farmers who
are unable to secure potash fertilizer
for their potato fields but who have
stable manure may insure their crops
against attack by its use. In sections
where certain types of soil have been
observed to suffer from the disease I'M
der discussion. and it is advisable to
plant potatoes ON these types next
year, it is strongly recommended that
potash fertilizers or stable manure be
applied if either are Obtainahe.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

Poets who write free verse take adj
vantage of the fact that this is free
country. but so do the people who do
not read it.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

This coat is cut on long, slim lines
and trimmed with gray sttchery which
gives the effect of silver lace. The
frock beneath is of black satin with
bands of the stitchery on each side
of the skirt and narrow bands of it
trimming the bodice.
dressmakers all over the country were
face to face with the fact that the
skirts shown by the manufacturers and
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
PAINS SHARP
And STAbEinG
Woman Thought She Would
Die. Cured by Lydia E.
Pinkham's Vegetable
Compound.

Ogdensburg, Visit suffered from
female troubles which caused piercing
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
womAN,s GROWING GLORY

is her hair If yours is streaked with
ugly, grizzly, gray hairs, use La Gre
ole" Hair Dressing and change 1t In
the natural way. Price $1.OO.-Adv.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

masculine simplicity. And on the
woman who is young or youthful look
ing or both the mannish blouse or
shirt Is immensely becoming.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

placed specific appropriations of 57S447 which is
mpnt.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27

Save Feed and Lose Money.
1t Is possible to save teed-but lose
money.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1917-04-27
Experiments in Progress.

Fertilizer experiments in progress
ON affected fields demonstrated that
the plots receiving potash showed little
or no signs of the trouble. even where
the other plots were entirely dead.
Stable manure also held the disease In
almost complete control.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-10-27
CARMEN CHAFE
UNDER DELAYS
OF ARBITRATOR

With the delay OF 10 moro days
In the decision OF the arbitrator
who must determine the wages OF
LOO street ear employees, unrest
among the carmen was reported
Saturday.
Or suzEallo. now IN the East.
was expected 20 return 20 Seattle
November l. and Immediately an
nounce the decision OF the arbitra-
tlon commission
lie has sent word that he can.
not arrive before November 10.
On increased wages expected
from tho commission depends the
ability OF tho organized carmen TO
meet the increased cost OF living
lllgh board fences. topped with
harbed wire. are being constructed
nj the jefferson st car barns.
Labor leaders. however. do not
anticipate drastic action on the
part OF workers. who. they point
out. agreed 20 await tho decision OF
the arhitrators.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-10-27
HONOR GUARDS
Give NEGROES
fine SEND-0FF

A guard OF honor. composed
OF number Of naval militia
mon from tho training station
on the state university campus.
and Companies A and o. OF the
third provisional regiment
were Included In the escort Of
the 81 negroes who left satur-
day for Camp Lewis.
Tho parade followed a luncheon
In the v NJ G. A.. given in honor
" tho drafted men II started al
Spring ~, and Fourth ave. march.
Ing north TO Stewart IT.. west on
Stewart TO Second ave. thence
south on Second ave. 20 tho King
w. station.
The colorod citizens and the Sc.
attic fire department bands were
Included IN tho line OF march a
large delegation OF colored citizens.
members OF Camp Tanner. Spanish.
war Veterans and mem.
bers OF the local division boards
were also ia tho parade.