New-York tribune., 1917-12-16
Bv GORDON BLEU"

TOPS-DTUVRES have become so popu-
III lar in this country that no longer can
II one call this custom Of beginning a
meal French or Russian, Italian or Scandi-
naYian. 1t has become universal
Hostesses who pride themselves on origi-
rsi.y and distinction have found in the hors-
5ancres an opportunity to create" unusual
ielcacies with which to surprise and delight
Asir guests. To be sure, there are many good
domestic and imported hors-d' 6uUres, well pre-
pared and prettiy made, but these are gener-
ally quite expensive and lack the flavor of those
which are freshly made.
Hors-dq1ures, hot or cold, should be well
seasoned; their purpose is rather to awaken
than TO appease the appetite. And in selecting
The tors-dqurcs the menu Of the meal always
should be taken into consideration.
For instance, if there is a fish course for
luncheon it is preferable to omit the fish hors-
feirc. But for dinner, when clear consomme
usually comes between the hors-d9uUre and
he fish course, caviar or some kind of smoked
or sslted fish may well be served to start the
neal.
There is no fixed rule as to the number OF
hors-fquUres 10 be served; one may have
vegetable salad, dish Of salted or marinated
fish and some kind Of cured or smoked meat;
or there may be three times as many varieties,
simply dish Of fresh radishes and another
dsh Of sardines in oil. 1t all depends on the
Importance one may want to give to this
oaverture to the meal.
knt 30. all cho
served as daintily as possible-anything edible
hat appeals to the eye appeals to the taste.
II the forS-d' uuUres are to be on the table, put
each kind in a separate crystal dish-unless
you are lucky enough to possess one OF those
'peelally made dishes that are set all on the
sane stand and have in the middle special
ash for butter. In either case it is preferable
% have the hors-d 0ayres passed to the guests.
FISH, salted. smoked or marinated, is served
N many and varied ways. Here is dainty fish
'elpe called "croutons la Cambridge" Crou-
'ens eanapes or tartines are names given TO
snail slices Of rather stale white, brown or
s'anam bread dipped in melted butter and
Tasted on both sides.
CR0UTONS A LA CAMBRIDGE
rfeSs in a napkin one-eighth of pound OF
anoked salt mackerel; take out some Of its oil;
"and Il very fine with two hard boiled egg
l'ks' the flets Of two anchovies, one teaspoon
~ o. eapers, one tablespoonful of butter and
Nhsh Of paprika. Pass through a sieve Spread
"a eroutons.
ANCHOVY TARTINES
These are not to be toasted.)
oh the buttered tartine make trellis from
'n hlets Of anchovies preserved in oil. In the
en square put alternately slices Of green and
'N olives, stoned.
SARDINE TARTINES
zone and skin box Of sardines. Pound them
~ go 'heir oil and one tablespoonful Of butter.
seao on the tartines. Garnish with hard
"''o eggs and thin slices Of gherkins.
DUTCH HERRING
ek milky, salted white herring day IN
.t and a night in milk, having it previously
49, ne and boned. Cut in slices, arrange in a
D. i'h sprays Of parsley and slices of onion
"a @fough a sieve the milk Of the herring;
s..p y one teaspoonful of vinegar and two
~. .rshsiul Of oil. Work until smooth. Pour
~s pieces Of herring.