davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Robesonian., 1917-11-26
M PEACE BEFORE 1919

Military Decision Cannot be
achieved Before 1919 is Belief
:, Well-Informed Circles
Washington and Furnaces of
America to Decide Issues of
War.
D,ssia's collapse and the unreadi-
- :" Of the United States make hope
y. y. apv thoughts of peace before
,mo rn in the opinion of Medill McCor-
p DE Congressman-at-large of Illi-
w. y. who has just returned from a
ros;' r:0;t 70 most of the important fronts
Vis4 Y tbe European battle lines.
M Mccormick in statement at
c.;nago on the 18th said:
Vii1TTS aTSe Germans are not winning the
SatN> antNeither are we. The war presents
,toien,ate from which we are unable
=, a 'sSi SsSxfricate ourselves, because of the
" VVo,I@onse @ Of Russia and the unreadi
W. Uo.s Of the United States.
A''' Europe Looks to 1919.
"vovhere in Europe did l find an
..tornet soldier or public man who
innl;eyad that military decision
p IenId be achieved before 1918, when
t .So limited States might add effec-
Wv tirply 70 pressure on the central en-
.i,Y .;re: There is practically no hope
$at & Russia could be useful during
''a; 'aaRussia is so disordered that she
,,nnot make war. Happily, in all
UrObability, neither can she make
peace. n,,. r,,
aTbe resources of the Central Pow
Ss have been energetically spent. They
are bleeding terribly. But they act
With greater energy, unity and skill
tban their enemies. Thus they mad,
y seemingly successful drive int
Ttalv. The real object of their politi
raj foray into Venetia was partly t,
make camouflage to conceal thei
steady losses from Verdun to Pass
ehendaele and partly to provoke revo
luton in Italy.
Italians Short of Supplies.
"The Italians were under-gunneC
neither had they enough ammunition
But even so they would not have bee
driven back as they were if two {
three divisions, debauched by the sp
system Of Germany, had not throw
down their arms.
The French and British have
moderate preponderance in guns al
man for man they Outright the &c
mans.
"Nhile there are still excellent &c
man divisions in Flanders, there W;
an appraciable duninution in the mo
ale and the physical quality of Il
German troops and the French al
British fronts. At the battle of Il
Chenin des Danes the German ba
teries we're so drenched with fire tn
they were unable to reply.
With mathematical eXactnesS t
French took the terrain. Hundre
and hundreds of heavy guns were el
poyed to wreck the enemy defens
before the advance was made, so
last when the infantry went forwa
they did so with unbelievably sm;
losses.
Big Guns the Secret.
This is an artillery and industri
war. That must never be forgott'
Above all, heavy guns are necessa
heavy guns with their obvious CO
plements of aircraft and rail tral
portation, but heavy guns and 81
more heavy guns; twenty-five tho
sand cannon to be made in Americ
factories and shipped to France
fore March l, 1919. This is the
FOIEY KIDNEY PITI
The Robesonian., 1917-11-26

good for others and daily making the
world better by living in it, is both
an inherited and acquired habit, if
we may call it habit. DR.. w. G. Shaw
has already built for himself in this
The Robesonian., 1917-11-26

whole section a monument more last
ing than granite and while compara-
lively young he has already wrought
much.
F. B.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
Daytime Frocks Show
Peasant Simplicity

Callot. Cheruit and Premet put their peas.
ant simplicity into daytime frocks. Premet Is
the only one OF these designers who attempts
to DO fancy work with the simple tunic or
chemise gown
Callot throws all restrictions to the wind
and makes frocks that could have been worn
in the early dawn of civilization. This house
turns out one of the deepest green satin, that
slips over the head and has an irregunrity of
movement over the shoulders and hips to give
it some character. The lines are not spreading;
they give trigness and neatness to the figure,
because they are so sharply cut and so slim
that they allow the movement Of the muscles
of the figure 10 play through the surface Of
the fabric. To give color to this dark green
frock she adds long chain of Chinese jade
beads. Some Of the American buyers had the
jade green beads changed to dark blue ones,
and thereby gained the shrug Of the shoulders
that the house of Callot always gives TO an
American who changes its color schemes.
The sketch shows the most startling Of these
simple gowns that Callot has made for
America. 1t is just the kind Of thing that the
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

pressed in two ways: there is tho straight
tunc of those centuries that ran from the ninth
to the fifteenth. and there is the bias drapery
that belongs to the early Greeks
Each designer carries out peculiar methods
of obtaining both slhouettes. 1t might be said
that the majority of the loose tunic effects are
used for the street and the earlier, wrapped
effects for the evening.
This division should not be taken as strictly
accurate and final 1t is merely an impression
gathered from half thousand gowns which
have been launched this autumn into the whirl-
pool of style. Calot will make a straight,
primitive peasant frock for afternoon affairs,
to be worn under Fur coat, and she will then
take few yards Of material, wind it around
the figure in the Oriental fashion and hold it
in place with barbaric ornament.
Paquin entirely discards the idea of the
drapery and makes her most pretentous even.
ing gowns in the straight, simple way. They
are of velvet, they go over the head like q
chemise, they are cut slightly low and round
in the neck, and they have loose armhoes,
without sleeves. These gowns Of hers appear
to be made of two widths OF material, and IL
they are Of dark velvet they are lined with
lowered metallic brocade. The back width
hangs OF the floor and makes short, square
ro;,
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

can girls were present when the French gov
ernment stepped in and stopped the dancing
and the roulette wheel in the middle of
brilliant seance at night. The people were dane
ing the tango with as much avdty as they did
in 1913, and these girls say that the scene was
as brilliant and costly and alluring as in for
mer times showing that the men and women
had the gayety and the money 70 bring it about.
But the French government did not intend that
there should be such rreverence toward war,
so it hushed the music, stopped the roulette
wheel and cast shadow over the dispensing
guests.
This attitude toward pleasure is very amaz-
ing to the Anglo-Saxon mind It would be diff
cult to tell that America was at war, and quite
difficult to know that England was, if one
CHANGED to pass by the pleasure resorts Of the
cities.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
When Deauville's
Cayety Was flushed

However, none Of this has to do with the
launching Of penguin pink, except in the fact
that it was at the Casino at Deauville when
gayety was suddenly stopped as though it were
highly improper, that penguin pink gowns were
worn.
The people also tell us that the rooms were
filled with very smart women wearing the new
dinner gown that is just beginning to appear
in this country. 1t is made Of velvet, in black
or penguin pink, and is cut like a twelfth CEN
tury tunic, with six-inch sleeves as a part of
the shoulders and loose sash girdled round
the hips to hold 1t In place.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

one at every glance of the eye. No one
has tried to make them pretentous or unduly
ornamental. The severe ones, which are the
best ones, have the now famous surplice bodice
which is drawn across the bust and passed
around the waist to tie in the back, or brought
forward to tie in the front. The skirt has a
bias tunic, to give slimness, or it is very slight
ly gathered and has an almost imperceptible
inward curve at the hem.
Velveteen is offered for serviceable frocks,
and chiffon velvet for indoor gowns.
Beige colored frocks trimmed with Koinsky,
putois and Hudson seal are common and yet
altogether satisfying. When these thin frocks
have fur hens there is a velvet and fur coat
that goes over them.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
Fur Is Used
More Than Ever

For several years we have worn fur quite
without regard to the fact that it was, in pre-
historic and some even recent historic times,
used because of its warmth-giving qualities.
Yes, indeed, we have not been SO utilitarian
as to remember this fact. And this season
even more than last fur is applied in the most
nonchalant way-or perhaps with deep de-
sign, but at any rate just where it will De OF
the least value in keeping US warm.
Exception must be made, or course to the
wide collars and cuffs on many winter coats.
Somehow, in spite Of an evident effort to keep
fur useless, these have slipped by the fashion
censor.
But fur in its most fascinating 1917 autumn
winter usage is applied quite uselessly. Deep
bands of it across the knees wide belts of it,
strips and stripes and tufts of il at all sorts Of
odd plucesthis is the way fur is now used.
And it is pretty? Of course it is And as
We all know, incongruity is nowadays big
part Of the claim fashionable clothes make 70
our interest.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
The Topcoat and
OnePiece Frock

The originality and inventiveness of our sp-
parel people have been expended on the one
piece frock and the topcoat. This is the funda-
mental fact that one gathers from reviewing
all the clothes by all tho people.
There are frocks that are warm enough for
the street with bit Of fur OF one of the swing
ing army capes which have not been ousted
from fashion by popularity.
There are thin one-p piece frocks that need
sturdy coat over them 10 give protection. There
are afternoon frocks that may serve as far
as color and fabric 90, for restaurant and thea
tire frocks, with the addition of fur coat
The tailored suit 10 not offered for any kind
Of ceremonial occasion. II 10 worn by the in
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

markable tone of army gray and what is called
American blue. 1t could really be called Mary
land blue along with the Maryland brown, for
it is the exact shade of the wild ducks that one
shoots and eats on the Maryland shores.
This Pershing gown looks somewhat like an
army overcoat. 1t hangs straight, in the form
of chemise, and is loosely and roughly gir-
died in.
Lanvin has another cowboy costume that
runs in the same channel with "Pershing." 1t
is of khaki cloth trimmed with itself slashed
into the deep fringes worn by the Arizona men.
1t has sturdy, slouchy, artistic air. 1t is
quite adorable on the youngster who pitches on
a cowboy hat of black panne velvet as an ad-
junct to its khaki tones.
Then there is another gown by Bulloz
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
CALLOT'S MEDIE-
VAL GOWN FOR
STREET
STREET

dividualists and by
those who feel that
they are not comfort
ably dressed unless
they are in this kind
of conventional har-
ness.
The girl who works,
the woman who plays
and the millionaire In
Red Cross activities
are different types Of
women who go in for
the one-piece frock,
and get the variety
which they insist they
need in life by adopt
ing this kind of cos
tumery.
Never before has
there been such a col
lection here Of one
piece black velvet
gowns. They greet
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
The Models That Are
Dangerously Popular

There is the Bulloz gown, which has already
been described and which goes merrily on its
way into the realms of the ready-to-wear de-
uartnents. It's velours folds cling to many
figure, and the broad gold mesh bag that covers
The front of the figure and forms peplum to
the belt bangles and jangles at many res
taurant.
The gown by Jenny called Ma Cherie, the
popularity of which was foretold in letter to
This department written in early August, would
bring its creator a snug little fortune if she
had q royalty on every time it was copied.
You know this gown, don't you? 1t is of
lack Velvet and white satin. 1t is quite simple
nth is slim bodice that runs below the waist
ne into a rounded curve to which the skirt is
ehtly gathered, its cravat girdles that loosely
circle the waist, its loose, eb1w sleeves fin
he'd With a turnover cuff Of white satin, and
broad, folded surplice bib of white satin
mt around the neck and tucked into the waist
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

The miliiners have taken penguin pink vel
vet ribbon with a corrugated surface and made
a scarf or bow Of it to ornament the black
velvet mushroom hat that is considered extra
smart for the day hours. Other milliners have
made turbans of penguin pink panne velvet and
combined it with gray to give an exceedingly
artistic effect.
Each designer in France has tried to be
more medieval than the others. 1t is difficult
to understand why certain Americans insist
that there is to be return to the fitted bodice
and the girded waist line. Here and there are
American gowns that carry out this idea, but
thew are overwhelmed by the gowns from
France and America that have gone back TO
the most primitive kinds Of women's clothing
True, this revival of ancient clothes Is e%-
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

TIME hectic flush Of excitement has gone
out of the clothes question. The indi-
vidual has not yet assembled her win
ter outfit, but she has gone through the cyconic
episode that occurs each autumn, beginning the
middle Of September and lasting until the first
of November.
The woman who has been going the rounds
win be able to check off on her fingers the
French models that have been overcopied al
ready. although the season Of wearing new
clothes has scarcely begun She may even know
the names that have been given to these frocks
in the Paris salon, but if, through lack of in
.erest, she does not go that far, she knows the
nsme Of the maker and the source from which
the gown sprang.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

It did not need that
remarkable novel by
Anatole France to as
sociate penguins with
France in the minds
Of the many. Their
peculiar pink an d
white coloring has
often been taken up
by the French de-
signers as a new
color sch EN- @ to
spread through the
channels Of smart
dressing, and evil
dently this autumn
was a propitious time
to again launch pen
guin pink.
Deauville, despite
the hard times in
France, w a 8 excep-
tionally gay this sea-
son Some Ameri-
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

Penguin pink and gray velvet, with brim Of
black velvet and ornament Of gray squirrel.
There ia . silver cord wrapped around the base
ef IN. h.,. sod tbs whole 'hsps rsss we'll down
ever the head ia the new way.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
IL Cherie Is the
iqnest Success

possbly, however, you do not know why
Jenny named this gown Ma Cherie 1t is
copy de luxe of the black and white uniform
worn by the women who serve the soldiers in
Paris at the restaurants and in the canteens.
The American soldier has learned to call all
these helpful and agreeable mattresses by the
one French phrase he has quickly learned, INA
Cherie." So Paris, with its quick love of nick
name, has adopted the title for its mattresses
vho serve the soldiers.
Jenny quickly saw the possibilities of
popular gown in this friendly little salute, and
perefore copied the black and white uniform
n velvet and satin, adding some brilliant or
namental rhinestone buttons; and the Ameri-
can buyers swung it into line as the biggest
success Of the season.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

Is it prepa dn ess to
launch a thousand frocks
to ahundredsuit Every
available material goes
into the making ofgowns
that are advocated for
all occasions under vari-
Gus and original topcoats
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

which is well known and which carries out
his idea of using the Persian Tree of Life
as means of ornamenting the skirt. You
may remember that the sensational gown
called "Griselds," which was worn by Mary
Garden when she sang the opera by that name,
also had this symbolic Persian embroidery as
its chief claim TO fame.
This new gown is of black tulle and satin,
with slight cascades formed by ruff1es that go
across the front Of the figure and ripple down
the sides; these ruf1es are edged with silver
ribbon, and they display, as though they we're
a lifted curtain, the audacious and blazing en-
broidery on the front Of the skirt. In the CEN
tire, just where these curtain ruffles are lifted,
there Is huge Persian ornament that might
have been worn by Haroun-al- Raschid. This
gown is for the few not the many.
Best to Avoid the Obviously
Popular Styles
It is well that woman should know most of
the over-popular French models before she
spends money on autumn clothes because IL
she Is ignorant Of these particular designs,
she is apt to buy gown of which she will be-
come exceedingly weary before Christmas.
However, she is the only one who can Judge
whether or not she wants to wear what every
one else has, or something different.
The shops have copied most of the French
models. and in week or two will sell the
originals at any price they can demand. The
American copies are not exact, and are often
more adaptable to our social life and activities
than the originals. We have progressed so far
In fashions that we take the French silhouette,
peculiar kind Of material or trimming, high
neck or long sleeve, and we make salad of
our own Of these ingredients. This is as it
should be.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
The Primitive
Evening Gown

The evening gown Of the hour is what
France has decreed as the dinner gown for
Paris. 1t is almost primitive in its simplicity,
although it is mace Of expensive materials
and is quite costly This frock is made OF vel
vet satin and sometimes chiffon. France has
put her entire faith in velvet and crepe satin.
The frock has nothing to fasten it with, and
the sleeves are quite short and cut in one with
the shoulder.
This is a significant feature that runs
through the whole moving picture of new
fashions. 1t mas been years since this type cf
sleeve was considered sufficiently elegant to be
incorporated in anything but sport suit, out
today it is part of the most expensive and
formal gowns worn.
There is no end to the queer little bracelets
that are used on ankles and arms these days,
and nearly every sleeve is caught to the arm
by one of them. Several Of the new evening
skirts are also caught to the ankle with these
bracelets Of crystals metallic ribbons II is
an odd and artistic Oriental trick, and when
first introduced it had few followers, but now
one is beginning to accept the fashion as suii-
GENTLY commonplace to be taken up without
comment.
vast number Of flowing sleeves made these
bracelets imperative. We wear yards Of tulle
swung from the shoulders, and they must be
caught near the hand in some fashion, so we
attach bracelet of tule, velvet ribbon or
colored crystals.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
American Army and
Cowboy Gowns

There are two other gowns that were In
spired by the sentiment between the French
public and the American soldiers, and these
are sweeping upward on the crest Of the wave
Of popularity as well as Ma Cherie. One is
Jeanne Lanvin's Pershing, which is in re-
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

snort Parisienne holds up as the highest form
Of wartime dress.
It is made of mallard duck blue soft CLOTH
and 1t has a cash of salmon colored satin in
serted as the only bit of color in the tunic top
The heck. the wrists and the piece Of salmon
are bordered with a bias band Of the material
unstitched. There are no fastenings, no SASH
no effort to define the figure except as il is de-
fined by the clingng material.
1t is a difficult frock to make, it is diff.
cult frock to wear, but on the right woman and
from the hands of the right artist it is gem
in clothes
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
STREET

Il 10 a broad scarf Of skunk lined with brilliant
satin and pulled high over the shoulders to form
. collar. II fastens st the front with large
skunk button. Barred shaped muH msde OF
the came psltry.
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04
VIII War Reduce the Number of Coat Suits for American Woer

Severe black velvet
frocks are offered as the
best of afternoon COS.
tumes-Ceorgette crepe
combined with satin or
thick chiffon is a popular
combination Tailored
suit is losing popularity
New-York tribune., 1917-11-04

should be
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-05-02
left and FitZ Meet
on Jeffries' F arm

one-tIme opponents stood be-
meath peach tree blooming
full and pink, jeff broke of .
t"is and laid IL against Fltx's
lapel.
The same wistful look remained
on Fits face as It came time to
bid goodbye. Giving n final glance
about the ranch. he asked:
Jim. won't you come in and see
me before ] go?"
Sure | Will. Bob"
I'm going 10 make you a horse
shoe, jim"
Il got one you made me. Bob"
You'll sure come in. JIM"
Sure. Bob; goodbye"
jeff watched after the auto as Il
sped down the dusty road. Then
he turned and said;
"FYtz isn't bad fellow. He never
did anyone any harm"
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-05-02
KILBANE SHOWS
UP FRED WELSH

him from annihilation. which pois.
ed ready for him at ali times lilo
hid his chin carefully bchind HIS
gloves and stood waiting for XII
bane. kilbanc tried TO make
Welsh lead by feinting. but the
crafty old man OF tho ring would
not be led 20 tho slaughter. XII.
hane landed almost at will. but he
also was woefully Wild with his
punches. They carried real
sting when they landed.
IL was a kilbane fight from the
start. After the first cautious mo-
ments had worn away tho feather.
weight champion tore In. lie out
boxed the clever Welsh. When
Welsh fell back on his bost efforts
"A one-step around the ring--kil-
bane outdanced him. He laughed
al Welsh and the crowd laughed
with him.
Welsh left the ring with a dam.
aged eve and with his lips cut and
bleeding. kiibano did not bear a
scratch.
In tho fourth round the double
uue seemed 10 be IN KilbAne's
grasp lie shot over n quick right
TO III. Jaw and Welsh vas dis.
tressed when the bell rang. The
crowd wildly shouted for . knock.
cut
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-05-02
"PHANTOMS" IS
RIGHT, SAY WE

"Muff Bronson. Portland light.
weight. had about $3.50 verdict
with Harry Anderson. who made
his first appearance since being
opernted upon for appendicitis.
Anderson stepped around in his
usual clever style. bat tho Port.
lander was moro rugged and ag.
Ercssiye.
II anything. Frankie Sullivan
had the advantage by a shade IN
hls fracas with Henry Gleason. for
mer national amateur lightweight
champion. Gleason showed much
pep In ths first two rounds. but
began TO weaken IN the third chap
ter. and from then on tho Los
Angeles youth began piling up a
lead that entitled him TO an edge.
In tho curtain raiser. Bernie
Dillon and Meade Manning. fly.
weights. boxed TO a draw. All the
bouts wcro OF four rounds dura.
ton.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1917-05-02
ny n. c. HAMILTON


United Pres. starr Correspondent
NEW YORK. May 2.--Thers
10 one sure way 20 separate
Freddie Welsh from HE light.
weight title: Match him with
Johnny klIbane. the feather
weight king. and stage the
bout where a decision can be
given.
kllbane today had shown New
York fight fans that he 10 the real
master OF the crafty Welsh. and
were Il not for tn. laws % the
state OF New York. would be
crowned monarch OF tho light
weight division.
other boxers haye outpointed
Welsh. Several second-osasF
youths have taken an tho cham
pion and outfought him. but IL Ia
doubtful II Welsh ever stood In n
ring with so many boxing gloves
flying around IA last night The
master OF block and stab Was
riven n boxing lesson by a black.
headed youth, who laughed At him
He was shown up by q man who
weighed nine pounds less than
himself.
Wsish ssvss Self
The cunning OF Welsh saved