Evening star., 1917-10-14
othes Accentuate Lead Pencil "Silh0uette',t :


II Is the kind Of tribe that makes -
| mars the whole.
It is well that every woman rsmsa.
bers this truth during the remaineee
OF this season. She win hnd. ~ tA4
months follow each other. that u Vii
take all her ingenuity to deal VIA
the extraordinary influx OF belts. gif~s
dies. sashes and waist drapsry Of pleass
ant aud sinister kinds.
There are evening gowns that 0o9u1
to be all sash. An Immense piece a.
drapery is welded by an artist drsss.f
maker into dominating feature Of the
frock by wrapping 1t below the bust
At or below the waist line. then resolv-
ing II into . deep panel that dreps'
down the length OF the skirt at the,
back or into a bulging bow with long.
fringed ends that covers the entire side
Of the figure.
There are belts on some Of the new
coat suits which are almost corseiets,
and an accessory OF this typs , on the
roman into caricature.
There 10 a nest Of belts. four or hve
OF them. linked together by some coEn-s
mon cord at the side and back and dis
There are actual corselets Of noriaesd
jet. OF Egyptian tissue worked In tur-.
quoise and jet beads. Of black silk:
and these reach from the bust to the.
point Of the hips. with the ends ad-;
justed by hooks and eyes or by rows.
of cloth-covered buttons.
These things are called girdles. They
really make the bodice. Some evening
gowns are built up around such gir-
die. 1t will be of fanciful jet figures
on cloth Of silver foundation. for in
the back and has long. floating sleeves
caught at the wrist, will be Of silver
and black tulle: the skirt will be made
from two broad panels of superb black
and silver brocade, falling over q short,
skirt OF silver and black tulle.
The skirt part of every street costume
is settled. Whether 1t carries short
or a long coat or whether IT has ~
own bodice and depends upon . top
coat for warmth, it is short and scanty.
There 10 the one exception. as ! have
| said. OF the pull-back skirt with its
| drapery at the end of the spine. ~
The coat. however. IL pushing the
tailors as well as the public. Frances,
| evidently. could not make up her mind
| to put all her chances for success Into
one throw Of the dice. 30 she made;
Russian tunics slashed at the side and
called them coats: then she built -
, three-quarter coat with the high waise
/ line Of the directoire and the immense
position cape collar that was worn.
| during the revolution. Even then she
was not sure of herself, SO she threw
In dozen or more short coats
Il
| The verdict of those who deal In
great numbers Of coat suits is that!
the three-quarter length will be &C..
cepted in the beginning Of the season.
and the short coat will come into It's
| own after Christmas. There you are.
| You may take your choice and pay OUT
your money, but you may regret one
| and lose the other before the actuAA,
cold weather sets In. Twas ever thus
with fashions in October! "a
The short coats ripple at the hem and
| sag a bit above an extra wide, soft
patent leather belt. :,
| In contrast to these is the snugly
hitting zouave jacket of the French
| Algerian forces, and as q third choice
| there is the short riding habit coat
which has come into high favor during
1t is the kind Of coat that looks best
| on the American figure, 1t has natural
lines without any exagReration. Its
| sleeves are long and almost tight II
has revers that are part OF neat,
| turnover collar and a row of buttons
narrow silk braid and there is usually
| a pocket below the hips. 1t Is a coat
| that comes in and out of the fashions.
! but can always 5e worn by any woman
who wishes constantly to appear well
| dressed.
| There is another kind of coat which
3, has almost the bravado of the Beau
| Brummel one. It is cut on the same
| lines and depends for its grandeur %
muslin rufdes or gay waistcoat-