Bisbee daily review., 1917-10-14

Permit me to remind you of the advisability for us all to live normal ly even though we are requested to econcmize. 'Tis right to do that nor mally. It is right to dress well and and spend normally. Do not forget we cannot live for ourselves. When we buy new clothes we benefit oth- CTS besides ourselves. Not only the salespeople, or the shopowners, but the manufacturers. designers and num- bers of people who live to help oth- CTS dress we'll
 Judging from present indications the new suits are to have long coats. The length may be varied to reach anywhere from the knee to the an- kles; and the lines may be that of tible ripple to the full-skirted model of redingote origin.
 One thing seems pretty we'll as- sured, namely that the smartest mod els will be a direct departure from their immediate predecessors. While the old-time tailored idea of fitting the coat absolutely to the figure lines does not yet obtain, the time does not seem far distant when I've shall return to these early principles of the tailored garment for women.
 r-ba boet boucae ora ,,,al-;no orarv effort to keep away from military ef- fleets. It is thought that such effects tend to cheapen even the high-class model They are too easily copied in inferior fabrics and trimmings; and they unquestionably appeal to eli entele whose patronage does not mean success for any given style.
 Therefore, while it is fairly imrcs sible not to suggest the cape of the officer, the belt or pockets of the rank and file and even the color and texture of the soldiers uniforms it is within the artistic limitations of the high-class designer not to accentuate these notes.
 For example, there are coats which have a double-breasted fastening, deep swinging capes set from high collars, wide pockets and belts that aRe used for effect and not for service, the ensemble is that of the feminine gar ment which has not gone in for a cheap imitation of military clothes. Brass buttons have been eschewed, frogs and braid work and epaulettes have been sidetracked except in un- usual instances.
 Very likely when women are in- vited to inspect the new fashions, within a week or two, and to make choice therefrom, it will be found that the sort of suit which Cheruit spon- sors will be found among the most favored.
 The openings of winter models be- gan with Martialst Armand and Bull log, and both were marked by an un- expected return to extremely short and extremely scant skirts. It is quite certain that this skirt will not be accepted by the Parisiennes.
 Oriental effects in colors and in materials prevail and also in the shape of chemisettes and garments; the Turkish trouser and jacket ef- feet, Mandarin sleeves, Japanese col lars, the loose, draped folds of the Arabs and the gay color combination of all these nations are broadly sug- gested.
 The old Balkan blouse is likely to become extremely popular in all ma terials; heavy ones for the street and gay Oriental fabrics for the house. Skirts made of soft materials showed graceful draperies in low loopings, and wide ribbons are used in the same manner.
 The little chemise blouse that has been so popular for several seasons appears again. but in quite new form. It is very straight and square ly cut, and the long sleeves are in one piece with the rest. It reaches to the top of the hips, fitting them closely and it is hemmed with em- broidery. The same embroidery bands the sleeves, outlines the neck and the slit in front that permits the gar ment to be passed over the head.
 Buttons, have you noticed with what frequency they adorn the backs of styles? Long rows of them climb