Evening star., 1917-09-09
BY ANNE R1TTENHoUsE.

- ACH steamer that comes across
lI the Atlantic today probably
brings over new fashions to
~ this country.
The openings in Paris have finished
Each great house has shown its COM
plement of gowns. coats. wraps and
suits. The strain was a very great one
on the French designers this summer
because they had to endure a strike OF
all their workers. which was barely
settled in time to complete the enor-
nous supply of clothes to which they
had invited Americas attention.
Although few of the gowns have
been shown In this country. the de-
cisive factors In fashion are kno n to
the experts. They may be summed up
in a brief outline which will give
: women a comprehensive grasp of what
they are to expect in the next two
weeks.
Coats have little fullness when they're
long, and none when they're short.
They are belted in some odd manner by
. variety Of fabrics.
The line from the instep to the chin Is
kept straight. Revers have been ban
ished In favor of the military fasten-
ing suggested to Paris by the uniforms
of the American soldiers.
Collars are excessively high on
blouses. coats and piece frocks.
Sleeves are tight and long and often
flare to the knuckles of the hand. In
certain frocks the Chinese bell sleeve
is used, dropping over tight under
sleeve of dyed lace, embroidery or satin
edged at the hand with fur.
Coat suits are made of velour, duvetyn
and new quality of serge.
Afternoon frocks are made of chiffon
and panne velvet and often trimmed
with ermine. Evening gowns have
slight train. a narrow Skirt that reaches
to the instep and a more modest decol-
letage than we have seen for several
. seasons. The extreme decolletage will
continue in gowns of ceremony, but 1t
will be fashionable to wear a half low
froek to the play. to dinners and to a
number of brilliant afternoon affairs.
There is a strong attempt to run the
fabric OF the evening gown high at the
back. to have it entirely cover the
arms and then to open 1t in a square
or delta decolletage. after the manner
of the fashions which prevailed during
the American revolution. When In
formal evening gowns are made after
this manner. the upper part is of trans
parent material, such as tulle. chiffon
Or lace.
Dyed lace will be a feature of the
afternoon freck. 1t will also be used
for short peplum blouses to be worn
with coat suits instead of shirt waists.
These blouses will as a rule be belted
in an ornate manner.
In1 one-piece frocks. long pleated
tunics are still in fashion. They differ
from those of last spring in that they
are slashed at the sides and hang like
q pleafed panel down the front and
back of the figure from waist to with
in q few inches of the hem of the skirt.
These tunics have wide belts Of
Chinese embroidery. braided velvet,
dyed lace or metallic embroidered satin
and chiffon.
Skirts are five feet wide This is not
an absolute measurement of all the
hems, but 1t is the accepted width
among the French houses. We will
probably alter and modify 1t to suit our
taste and our figures. Think of the
change between it and the four-yard
skirts we've been wearing. In that very
fact itself lies a revolution in dress.
Jenny, as well as certain other houses
in France. has laid emphasis upon the |
continuance OF the Chinese influence in |
fashions 1t is difficult to describe the |