davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
MANY RIBBON HATS
All Seem to Be Made on Same
General Model.
Ribbon May Be Used Dozen Different
Ways on Millinery and Very Pretty
and Becoming Effects Are,
Easily Produced.

There are great number Of ribbon
hats about now, and it seems strange
that they are all made on the same
model with ribbon which varies only In
color or the fraction of an inch In
width. AS matter of fact ribbon may
be used I'm q dozen different ways In
millinery and at any of the ribbon
bon may be bought for little to make
Il hat and bag, too, If ingenuity Is
used. A..
For fresh young face nothing could
be more becoming than a hat made
upon small, tight-fitting crown of
plain blue panne around the upper
crown of which is plated one edge OF
an elght-inch-wide Persian ribbon. The
other edge Is gathered and fastened 10
the crown about an inch from the edge,
forming thus wide puff or tam crown.
The bag to match is made melon shape,
the lower half blue panne, the upper
Persian ribbon.
A plain foundation of net may be
covered smoothly with narrow strips of
black and white ribbons laid on In rays.
The crown may be all black or all
white, finished with contrasting tas-
sci or merely topped by curious ORR
entail ornament.
Powered ribbon hats will probably
be worn this year in place of the Gre
/ tonne and chintZ ones of other seasons.
There Is something peculiarly attrac-
tive about fine fabrics for headgear,
and after the first novelty of these cot
ton and wooden hats wore off they soon
lost favor. As soon as lovely shaded
ribbons, ribbons of gold and silver
brocade and those bearing clusters and
garlands of exquisite Misunderstanding
/ flowers began TO be offered for mod
crate prices, as is the case now, the
cheaper materials could not fairly com
pete.
/ A hat, bag and sash Of some lovely
ribbon will transform the simplest
summer frock into something distine-
tive, and if q sash does not fit In well
with the dress design, collar and cuffs
may be made of the ribbon. These
are often rendered still more lovely by
being yelled In organdie or null edged
with quillings Of fine lace and inser-
ton, too, If possible. Some Of the most
attractive hats being worn In the South
are of ribbon completely covered by
fine net or organdie.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
RULES IN USE OF MOURNING
Some information as to What Is Cor
rect When Somber Garb is
Donned.


There are some arbitrary rules In
the use OF mourning. For instance,
suede gloves are not properly worn In
first mourning. Glace kid are the cor
rect choice. On the other hand, all
ornaments such as pins, beads and
buckles should be dull Jet, as the shiny
sort is not considered correct when In
mourning. Patent leather should not
be worn. The correct choice is dull
kid for the house and calfskin for the
street. So patent leather purses and
bags are not in any sense correct for
mourning. Black velvet IS anything
but suitable for mourning, and satin
falls under the same classification.
Although women In mourning do not
entertain formally and do not accept
social invitations during the first few
months Of their mourning, they do
wear evening dresses, If they are ac-
customed to IL. The gowns selected
for this should be made of dull, soft
materials such as charmeuse or crepe
de chine. They may properly be
trimmed with black net, tulle or ma
, lines, dull Jet ornaments, or dull black
ribbon. The old idea of making mourn
ing stuffy and cumbersome with much
crepe Is thing of the past. Ii should
be as inconspicuous, quiet, comfortable
and becoming az possible.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
PRETTY PETTICOAT DESIGNS
New Fad Shows Garment Trimmed
With SprIgs Of Paradise
Feathers.

Some fancy net and lace designs In
petticoats are deliberately trimmed
with vines of tiny roses and ribbon and
are very wide, being four to five. even
six yards, in width.
A new fad shows the petticOat
trimmed with sprigs of paradise feath-
ers In place of the ordinary silk fringe.
The paradise fronds are interspersed
with tiny flowers that trim series OF
plated flounces. Tie petticoat itself
is Of silk mousseline.
A new petticoat is made of two
shades Of chiffon. The arrangement
suggests two separate garments hung
from one belt. There are two fiounceS
that extend to the hips, so that there
is no chance of thickening OF the
hip line by superfluous layer of even
so sheer fabric as chiffon.
Green, purple, wistaria, copenhagen,
coral, rose, gold, Belgian blue, etc. are
all good petticoat colors. Dark colors
are worn with plain tailored suits, but
are frequently bound or piped with a
bright color. Braces are added to some
petticoats. The best grade of mercer
lied petticoats have similar stripe and
floral patterns to those Of silk and are
made up In as great variety Of pat
terms.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
A Different pillow.

It is hard to ring in any changes In
the embroidering of cushion tops, but
one seen recently was most unique.
The pillow top was made Of coarse
quality Of ivory-white linen which was
heavy and pliable. A large spray Of
flowers was embroidered diagonally
on the cushion. The flower petals and
leaves were outlined with coarse
twisted cotton, green for the leaves
and rose color for the flowers. A
lighter shade of the rose was used
for the lines on the petals. The CEN
ter Of the flower was worked with
stranded cotton and a tiny flower
shaped spot OF yellow worked from the
center out In five little petals had
one French knot Of black In the mid
die OF 1t and radiatlng from 1t we're
lines Of black ending In satin dots Of
yellow. After the floral part is COM
pleted, an effective background In
squares can be formed by crossing
lines Of brown.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
TOKYO STREETS A PUZZLE
Even Old Residents Are Said to Find
II Hard to Make Their Way
About Them.

Tokyo is made up of a group Of small
towns which expanded until, like the
old lady's two teeth, they hit. 1t Is the
most conservative city in Japan, and is
the one most lacking In unity of spirit.
Each district has Its own market and
its own shops. Homes and stores are
mixed together In bewildering confu.
sion, and even old residents find IL
hard to find their way about the
crooked streets.
On my motorcycle, the only way
have mastered the problem is by mem
OriZing the numbers of the tram lines
and then riding till see car. Then
/ know where | am. The city Is
grouped around the imperial palace,
and segments, like dehorned pieces of
pie, radiate from the center Of the cob
web. AS one cannot start from the
center of this mixup, due to the fact
that that Is where the sacred person of
the emperor holds court. he must play
ring around the rosy" at some dis
lance from the center. If he Is near
the outer circumference, two miles on
his speedometer mean one thing. If he
circles the inner moat, they mean an
other.-Christian Herald.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Sixteen Records at a Time.

Designed especially for the use OF
retail dealers, compact machine that
perforates music rolls for us in player.
pianos Is being introduced. The ap-
paratus is described in Popular Me-
chanics. 1t Is capable Of making from
one to sixteen records at time from
sheet music, and will also turn out
copies Of any standard roll. Its opera
tion Is said to be so simple that salts
factory work can be done by persons
who are not musicians. The particular
advantage Of the machine seems to be
that 1t enables small dealer to fill
his customers orders promptly with
out having to carry large, expensive
stock. 1t also obviates the inconveni-
ences that confront patrons when spe-
cial orders have to be mailed to fac
tory before their wants can be sup
piled. Since 16 sheets can be per-
forated simultaneously, dealer In
making roll to order has an oppor-
tunity to add Is records to his stock
with no expense other than the bare
cost OF the paper and spools.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13

MuNseses ~ Prsneh military Expedition
Iaa0GsssaWss Are DevotIno Much
Timos 60 Both.

Tue French military expedition In
tiSee Balhanss following the example OF
tl5er ss1nzes Of Napoleon and Marshal
Alhasuna In carefully preserving and
classifying all objects Of archaeological
interest discovered by the troops, has
gathered data that II Is thought Will
throw much light. on the primitive his
tory Of Macedonia.
Objects unearthed In trench digging
at, the front, In Macedonia and In the
construction OF field works In the In
trencheds camp are assembled at Sa'
lonid all duly labeled, with full de-
tails Of their discovery.
Organized, research IL being done so
far az, circumstances permit. Three
flying columns have been sent to cover
particularly interesting regions to
make soundings. with a view to the
preparation Of archaeological charts OF
maps
These columns have already collect.
ed information. Of inestimable value,
with specimens Of poetry, fragments OF
ceramics, with data as to the depth al
which they were discovered.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Full Record Of Earthqu axes.

Systematic earthquake recording has
been part OF the work Of the United
States weather bureau since Deem
Der, 1914, and Ii is shown that the
United States proper had 80 earth
quakes In 1916, three or four of them
severe. Shocks noted without instru-
ments are reported from the bureaus
200 regular and many cooperative sta
lions. The bureau has seismographs
ut Washington and at Mortified, VT,
and has the records OF instruments Of
Is other institutions scattered from
Panama to Alaska and from Hawaii to
Porto Rico.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
EASY TO HANDLE BIG LOADS
the Work Of the Wheeler so
Per Cent Easier.

In order To make 1t possible for a
workman to manage a heavily loaded
two-wheeled hand truck with less ply
steal exertion than is ordinarily re-
quired an attachment has been devised
which holds the cargo In place, allow
ing the mass. to be tilted forward until
It's center Of gravity is over the wheel
axle
When wheeling on level flooring
man Is thus relieved of the weight OF
the article he is moving; his concern is
merely to maintain its balance while
propelling the truck.
The device consists of an anchor and
chain attachment, housed In a tube,
which Is attached beneath a truck. BY
tipping the latter forward against the
object 1t is to carry, the chain Is drawn
out to the required length, locked by
dropping one Of the links into narrow
slot In the neck OF the tube and the
hook engaged at any convenient point.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Fire Loss in United States.

If one could imagine all the build
ings destroyed by fire In the United
States In year arranged along one
highway, each building occupying a
lot IS feet wide, the highway would
extend from New York to Chicago,
and the buildings would line 1t on
each side. Such Is the calculation Of
the department of interior. Further
more, a person travelling this scene Of
desoiation would pass in every thou
sand feet a ruin from which an In
jured person has been taken. At every
quarters Of mile he would en-
counter the remains OF a human be-
Ing who had been burned to death.
For years, 1t Is estimated, the
value Of actual property annually
consumed by fire In this country
reaches $250,000,0OO, and another sum
Of about like proportions Is spent for
the maintenance of fire departments,
waterworks, insurance premiums, ETC.,
to prevent still greater losses.-Cleye-
land Plain Dealer.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Snuff Upsets BuroIar,s Plans.

When Miss Jennie McAlpln OF
Doyle, La, was confronted by bur-
glar In her home the other night she
outwitted the intruder, who demanded
money, by leading him into her
grandmother's room, catching up the
elderly woman's snuff box and quick
ly dashing the contents In the aston
ished miscreant's eyes.
She then grappled with him and
wrested the revolver from his grasp,
but when she marched him toward the
front door, calling for help, the rob-
Der leaped blindly down the steps and
escaped.-New Orleans Times-Picay-
une.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Sure IL Was That One.

In the course of his weekly sermon.
cite to children Sunday, DR.. III. C. Clip
pinger, pastor of Wall Street Methodist
Episcopal church, Jeffersonville, told
story OF little girl who had two
nickels, one for herself and one to put
In the collection. The child lost one
Of the nickels.
(which one do you suppose she
lost?" asked the minister of the chill
dren sitting In the front rows. A very
human" little boy up on the front
seat knew the answer: "The mission
airy nickel was lost"
And that is just the one the little
girl In the story decided was the lost
nickei.--Indianapol News.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
NATURE HOLDS BALANCE EVEN
Creatures That Prey, and Those That
Are Preyed Upon, Have Natural
Increase Limited.


However smart and awake to the
frequent dangers that may at any
time assail them. the creatures that
are preyed upon are often caught the
preying ones get them from time to
time, and IL this were not so they
would increase beyond all bounds. 1t
Is true also that those that prey often
go hungry. and they, too, have enemies
or diseases, which later amount to the
same thing in the struggle for exist
ence and the limiting of numbers. So
nicely is nature balanced as gen.
eral thing between the killers and the
killed that II but an unusual influence
enters In, as an additional number OF
carnivOrOus creatures In any neighbor-
hood, or the growing up. OF an addi-
tional amount Of cover. there will be Il
falling off, on the one hand. or con-
siderable increase, on the other, OF
those animals that are preyed upon.
Thus Is seen the influence, both
plicated contest The gunners and
trappers weigh heavily In overbalanc-
ing the otherwise normal balance
against both flesh and vegetable eat
ers. and where, In the unusual good
ness of his heart. man has endeavored
over considerable areas to protect
nearly all wild life, the result Is
shown by rapid increase among the
protected animals.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Soldiers Had Gone On.

AS the British transports poured
forth their freight Of Australian-New
Zealand troops at Gallipoli. young
officer on one Of the battleships no.
ticed that the men went only a little
way, then stopped. "Why don't they
advanceT he cried. An older officer
by his side looked through his glasses,
and remarked quietly. They have adj
vanced." Nothing more pathetically
beautiful has come out of the war.
Surely the Anzac troops could ask no
finer epItaph. --Youth's Companion.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
]ARKEN GRAY HAIR,
LOOK YOUNG, PRETTY
Sage Tea and Sulphur Darkens
So Naturally that No
body can tell.
that loses its color and lustre, or

IL fades, turns gray, dull and life
IS, is caused by lack OF sulphur in
TIE hair. Our grandmother made up
iiiXture of Sage Tea and Sulphur to
leep her locks dark and beautiful, and
thousands OF women and men who value
ttlat even color, that beautiful dark
shade OF hair which is so attractive. use
only this old time recipe.
Nowadays we get this famous mixture
improved by the addition OF other ingredi-
.ats by asking at any drug store for 80.
cint bottle of ~ vcth's Sage and Sui
phur Compound" which dsrkens the
hsit 40 naturally, so evenly, that 7ohOdy
can possibly tell il has been applied. You
inst dampen sponge or soft brush VITA
IL and draw this through your hair, TAX
ing one small strand at time BY morn.
ing the gray hair disappears; but what
delights the'ladies with Wyeth's Sage and
Sulphur Compound, is that, besides beam
tifully darkening the hair after a few
applications, it also brings back the gloss
and lustre and gives it an appearance
OF abundance.
Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Compound
IN a delightful toilet requisite TO impart
color and youthful appearance to the
hair. IL 10 not intended for the cure,
mitigation or prevention Of disease.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
GIVE EXHIBITION OF LOYALTY
West Indian Possessions Of Britain
and France Have Sent Their
Sons to the War.

None Of these lands OF the Lesser
Antilles has prospered quite as much
as Cuba, Porto Rico and Panama dur
Ing the last 10 years, owing to the Pc
culiar relations of these three coun-
tries to the United States. But they
have prospered far more, they have
infinitely better and juster govern
ments, than most of the revolution
ridden republics" that face on the
Caribbean and the Mexican gulf; from
the standpoint of life. liberty and prop
erty, they are beyond comparison bet
ter living places for rich men and es-
pecially for poor men.
They reflect honor on the nations to
which they belong; the public servants
are upright, fearless and efficient. The
English colonies regard England, and
the French colonies France. with de-
voted loyalty--a loyalty which in each
case has been well earned by the moth
er country. Everywhere we found that
the young white men had thronged to
the support of the mother country In
the war-almost every family we met
had kinsmen at the front.
Even more striking was the genuine
Loyalty OF the. colored men and black
men to the flags under which they had
found justice. Thousands had volun-
tered from the British colonies. Mar
Unique and Guadeloupe Were under
CONSUMPTION, like France; and these
two islands, with less than half mil
lion population, had sent 10000 SOL
diers across the seas.-Theodore
Roosevelt in Scrfbner's Magazine.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
New York CITY as a State.

Col. ]. b. Bellinger wants the city
of New York elevated into new state.
To that end he would have annexed to
IL adjacent slices OF Connecticut and
New Jersey. In his opinion erection
Of the city into state would bring
power to solve complicated problems.
such as transportation and food dis
tribution. Should his Idea be adopted
the new state would possess the unique
distinction of being the only state In
the Union without an agricultural area
or farming population.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
CREAM FOR CATARRH
OPENS UP N0STRllS
Tells How To Get Quick Relief
from Head Colds. It's Splendid

In one minute your clogged nostyils
will open, the air passages OF your ~
will clear and you can breathe freely.
No more hawking. snuflling, blowing,
headache, dryness. No struggling for
breath at night; your cold or catarrh
will be gone.
Get small bottle of Ely's Cream
Balm from your druggist now. Apply
little of this fragrant, antiseptic,
healing cream in your nostrils. 1t PEN
etrates through every air passage of the
head. soothes the infamed OF swollen
mucous membrane and relief comes in
stsntly.
It's just fine. Don't stay stuffed-IAp
with cold or nasty catarrh--Relief
comes 20 quickly,
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
SPECIAL NOTICE

Foley Cathartic Tablets thoroughly
cleanse the bowels, remove undigested
waste matter, sweeten the stomach and
tone up the liver Do not grippe nor
nauseate. Stout persons praise Foley
Cathartic Tablets for the light, free and
comfortable feeling they bring. Will
not addict you to the pill habit. -
Hite's Drug Store.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Double Jersey Coats.

Heavy wool jersey In gray and
beige colors and burella with lining
and trimming of the same material,
but of a different shade, are being
featured In spring coats. Some of
the gaberdine coats are trimmed and
lined with dotted foulard, In coinbina-
lions of colors such as biege and bor-
deaux, gray and old blue.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
A WORD TO MOTHERS.

There seems to be more than the
usual number of children suffering
from, measles, whooping cough and
other children's diseases this spring.
Do not neglect any cold, for cold
weakens the system and makes child
more liable to attack OF more serious
ailments. Foiey's Honey and Tar re-
!ieves' coughs, colds and croup.-Fiite's
Drug Store.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Black and White smoeks.

Among the novelties In smocks are
those of white linen stenclled In black
or made with broad cuff hens, whose
tops are appliqued and blanket stitched
with black. Shocks of white wool are
also trimmed with black, and one or
two sports coats have been seen made
of black jersey trimmed with white
or white suede.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
The Exception.

II am going to call up that pretty
telephone girl and ask her to marry
me-"
Then you won't get the usual an
swer."
"What do you meanT
SHELL hurry to reply, Ring on"
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
velours cloth. serge or gaberdine may

Velours cloth, serge or gaberdine may
be used for this little coat. 1t has Il
short-waisted bodice, to which the
skirt part is. set without fullness !;
sleeves are set into ordinary arm
holes; fronts are double-breasted.
Hat of white felt, trimmed with
corded ribbon and a small bunch of
berries.
Material required: Two yards 40
inches wide.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Can't Do Without Them.

1--WE are here today and gone to-
morrow" said the philosopher.
"True enough" replied the cynlc.
Maybe that's why SO many self-impor.
lant people think the world is going TO
the demnition bow-wows tomorrow"
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13

Gaberdine, velours cloth, cravenette
coating and serge are all suitable ma
terlals to be made up In this style.
The fullness at waist is drawn in at
sides by band that Is joined in with
side seam and buttons with point
towards front. The collar and
sleeves are trimmed with pointed
straps.
Hat of black velours.
Materials required: Five yards 90
inches wide, 10 buttons.
Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13
Ornamental Wells.

The woman who prefers her hat
plain and her veil ornamental has her
desire granted this season. Many OF
the new wells have large, beaded
medallion which can be cleverly adj
justed over the right spot on any plain
hat.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-06-18
NEW CHIEF OF RADIO
COMES TO PEARL HARB0R

Thornelius Hansen. a San Jose boy,
viii soon take up his duties as chief
of the Pearl Harbor radio station. at
Honolulu, said to be the largest In
the world. Such Is the power OF this
station. which is owned by the govern
ment, that the sending Of one long
distance message consumes more
electricity than is used by the entire
city Of San Jose in one night, It has
been stated that a message can be
sent from Pearl Harbor to any point
on the surface Of the earth. Undoubt-
eddy the operator in charge should
be able to speak to his friend across
the room by merely flashins "how-de-
do completely around the world. over
ocean and continent, and 50 into the
receiving phones Of his friend 20 feet
away. Much easier than raising ones
voice.-San Jose (CalJ Mereury.Her.
aid,
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-06-18
$4,000 TOBESPENT ON REPAIRS
TOHOTEL FOR ARMY. NAVY. M.C.A.

lars put in. These will be surrounded
by circular seats which will be used
for lounging purposes. Directly across
the center Of the room from the office
will be another counter. Behind II
will be spa" Here the soldier
may secure hot coffee and sand,
witches for breakfast, also soft drinks
Of various varieties. No meals will
be sold in the building.
The waikiki-mauka side of the
building will be occupied by the main
office and other offices. Back of the
main offices some partitions will be
put in, and others taken out. A large
check room will be built for those who
wish to leave their suitcases.
The room which was formerly oc
cupied by the hotel bar will be used
as locker room, not as liquor room.
as one of the committee said. There
will be number of sleeping rooms on
the ground floor, and on the second
floor the rooms will be used for sleep
ing ROOM.
All of the rooms in the hotel will
have hot. and cold running water. and
a number of them will connect with
the baths. 1t is thought that charges
for the rooms will be so cents to a
dollar.
There will be sleeping accommoda
tiels for 400 to 500. Beds in the dor
mitory viii perh1ps cost Is and "a