The Hood River glacier. (Hood River, Or.) 1889-1933, 1917-07-26

iSdulHCoS lOI thC Des ginning VI tHS hlhS
to the big white top. Aside from the
small forest of alpenstocks, borne
scepter-like by the eXpectant hikers,
the most striking feature of this ma
tutinal ssemblage was the absence of
skirts. Although nearly half the party
was composed of women, somewhere
between darkness and daylight won
derous transformation was effected and
the cumbersome skirts and petticoats
of the preceding day gave way in the
light of early dawn to high laced,
sturdy mountain boots and a variety of
leggings and khaki trousers to suit the
individual fancy, all of which added to
the days comfort and scenic effect.
Shortly after five O'Clock midday
lunch in paper bags was issued at the
cook shack, the mixers assembled at
the edge of the forest, and a few
moments later the procession was under
way mountainward. winding slowly
through the last patch of timber. Out
in the open, just above the timber
line, the party was halted by Robert
Hitch who divided the crowd into COM
panies. lettered from A to H, each
company averaging from ten to twelve
members with a leader and anchor
man for each company. Chief Guide
Roy Ayers, regarded as one of the
best mountain men in the MaZama
organization, then took charge and,
after a few brief instructions had been
given amateurs in the use of the alpen
stock, the serious work of the day
began. Especially were they enjoined
not to talk, for talking, they were
told, exhausts the lungs. The process
sion counted off and it was found there
were 81 in line, including 26 Mazamas.
Among those from Hood River valley
who joined the party at camp were Mr..
and Mrs. ]. c. Windham, Mr.. anc
Mrs. R. A. Collins and son, Jack, Mr..
and Mrs. Sherman Lafferty and son,
Duane, D. G. Onthank, N. w. Battey,
G. c. Battey, George |. Howe, and C.
B. Compton.
From the timber line to Cooper s
Spur the trail led through a rocky
waste bedded with volcanic ash, a
gradual ascent regarded by some as
the most trying portion of the climb.
Cooper's Spur was reached about Z sc
a. M, and at the edge of the snow
fields each company was equipped with
Is foot rope looped at intervals OF
six or eight feet. Through each LOOP
one arm was passed, the other being
free to carry the all important alper
stock. Miss Monroe followed in the
wake of tie column to look after
stragglers, Of whom there were less
than a dozen who dropped out from
various causes, some exhausted, Others
suffering from dizziness, numbness, OF
heart and lung troubles.
At the snow line the main party was
joined by smaller party composed ir
part of President w. J. Kerr, of o. A.
c., DR.. w. f. Foster, president OF
Reed College, President P. L. Camp
bell, of University of Oregon, Camp.
bell Church. W. X. Newell, and Miss
Shields, they having spent the night
at Cloud Cap Inn.
Here on the snow fields began the
gruelling, heartbreaking ascent which
constitutes the third degree of noun
tain climbing. When the snow field
was reached the party was agar
halted, faces were smeared with grease
paint to protect them from the blind.
ing glare and refraction of the suns
merciless rays on the glittering snow.
This portion of the ascent was negoti'
ated by zig gag course as the grade
increased and halts were made every
20 yards or so to rest. 1t is an unus
ual experience for many to stand ir
snow at an elevation of 5000 or 900(
feet above sea level with a mid-July
sun burning the hand and face while
the feet were chilled almost to freez.
ing by the snow.
Slowly and ever upward in their zig
gag course these pygmies of the eartf
toiled and tugged up the slope of the
giant mountain, feet freezing anc
bodies weltering as they gazed hope
fully toward their goal at the top OF
Oregon's Olympus. After some 20O(
feet of patient trudging through the
slippery snow on an ever increasing
grade, point was reached which
marked the last and steepest lap of the
journey. Here, at the beginning Of
the steep apex, was encountered ar
inch rope, some 100 feet in length
the upper end of which was fastened
to rock at the summit. The zigzae
course was abandoned and the route
along the rope led straight up. AS
sisted by this line the tired climbers
took on new hope. A few fell out o.
line and were assisted by the guides
over to rocky cases where they re
mained to rest or returned below
Several were overtaken on this las
lap by mountain sickness, queer NAL
ady bearing distinct symptoms of Sc,
sickness.
When about half way up the snow
field, Robert H. Fox, an experienced
mountain hiker, was administering
drink of coffee from his thermos bottle
to one of the women of company H
Unobserved in time by him there came
suddenly roaring, swishing avalanch,
of snow down the slope and, before h,
could avoid it, he was knocked over
Witnesses to this accident from above
say they could see nothing but whirl
ing mass of legs, arms, alpenstock ant
haversack. Retaining his presence o,
mind, Fox finally got control of hi
alpenstock, thrust it deep into tn,
crusted snow, regained his equilibrium
and returned composedly to his plac,
in line. He was headed straight fo
the Elliott Glacier, and had this acci
dent occurred to less active climber i
is more than probable the glacie
chasm below would have claimed
victim.
From Cooper's Spur may be seen
number of points of interest, includin,
Eliot Glacier, -Coe Glacier, Ladd Gls
cier, Pulpit Rock, Langille Crags
Barrett Spur, Steel Glacier, Whit,
River Glacier, Newton Clark Glacier
Triangular Morraine, Lunch Rock
Lamberson Butte, and Crater Rock
Off below to the southeast may b
seen Elks Meadows, and still farthe
away snuggles Badger Lake and Bor
ney Meadow, near which is formed tn
headwaters of the east fork of Hoo
River.