Evening star., 1917-09-16

Cossacks of central Russia. In direct
contrast to these short, brilliant Slavic
clothes she has put out a most digni-
fed evening gown. The skirt is quite
long, but without train. and the belt
is nearly over the hip line. The top
part of the skirt has the tightness Of
! the days of the renaissance, and judg-
! ing by the many things that Lanvin is
doing, as we'll as other French dress
makers. 1t looks as though the loose
blouse in any form will soon belong to
a day that is done.
This is not startling news to the
American woman, because the smartly
dressed young women have been adopt
ing the tight bodice and the long. tight
sleeves in their summer clothes, even
making them of gingham and especial
| ly of jersey cloth.
| Lanvin also exploits the large waist
coat In various materials, to be worn
under a coat suit and to serve as a
| blouse or jerkin when the coat is re-
moved.
The hats she produces with these
gowns are often small Of brim. She
clings to the Russian effect, but she
has introduced a small edition of the
continental worn by Lafayette and
| Washington.
| Like Poiret, she also uses quantities
of brilliant black and white jet. highly
| polished and facetted.
The Slavic gowns have wide skirts.
| The skirts in coat suits are less than
u,
slashes a good many Of her coats and
tunics from the waist to the hem. A
novelty suit has a brown velvet skirt.
the jacket of worsted. closely knitted
and seemingly quite solid and strong.
1t was Lanvin who first put out the
quilted satin pockets on one-piece
frocks. They were not successful in
| this country, although we were ma
tion OF quilters. This season she will
introduce evening wraps made entirely
of quilted satin, and she will strengthen
the effect by adding capes Of deep-col-
ored peltry.
French designers have contributed to
the demand for conservation of ma
terial by eliminating trains, Worth con-
tinues to use these appendages to even
was not himself if he abolished rhine
stones or trains. and it makes one feel
quite safe that he has not done so.
His bodices are not only covered with
rhinestones, but glisten with cut jet
in different colors. He uses dark blue
and beige for the evening. built in satin
and velvet. His trains are sometimes
pointed. which is a trick that Worth
| has usually left to Callot.
| Like Poiret, he uses the low waist
line, but. no matter how heavy his
skirts, the bodices are transparent,
which is not in sympathy with Poiret
at all.
| He tries out a bit of first empire
here and there. and he has taken up
that wonderful hydrangea blue that
Canot made so famous the summer be-
fore the war.
| The really odd fashion in Worth's ex
hibition is the skirt. which has its hem
| turned under and gathered to the lin
| ing. Jenny has hammered on this skirt
| for four years; Cheruit insisted upon it
| q
| Poiret has used it since the opening of
his house Now that Worth is using it
| it looks as though it has been elevated
| to a dignif1ed rank.
| Worth like all the other designers
uses a great quantity of duvetyn and
velour. and he emphasizes purple and a
brilliant. royal shade of ruby.
| Possibly no one expected the house
of Jenny to omit her Algerian skirt, as
some call 1t, with it's slight fullness at
the waist line and its tucked-under
hem which gives the appearance of
| oriental trousers. Jenny likes this
skirt she finds hundreds of women who
| will wear it, and although the men have
a strong aversion to it and criticise the
women of their family who adopt it. it
| goes on being in fashion.
! Greater designers in Paris than Jenny
| tried to impose this skirt upon the
American public. but they We're not
successful When. however. this little
| wrenlike designer says that this kind
| of skirt is the correct one to wear the
| American women take it up without
argument. for Jenny has a strange and
| persuasive effect upon what is called
| in America the large and respectable
middle class. Be well assured, however,
| that her influence does not rest there.
| but it Is curious how strongly it exists
| there.
| And here is another strange thing
| that Jenny has done in her ex-
| hibtion. She has gone against the other
designers and made bodice that is al
| most as low as those that Callot ex-
ploits. Will the entirely respectable
| middle class care for such gowns dur
| ing war time? Well. if they get a bit
| excited over this departure into the ex-
| treme by their best-beloved designer
probably they will become more upset
over the knowledge that Jenny not only
| introduces the oriental skirt with its
! trousered hem, but puts full trousers