davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
The Tunic Persists
In Holding Its Own

That medieval chemse frock that came in
with such ringing of bells and blowing OF
trumpets has decided that it will continue TO be
4 welcome factor in fashions.
Possibly the one new feature that is most
noticeable about it is the slashng at the sides.
The house of Doeuillet is credited with having
started this movement. 1t looks we'll and it is
part of the universal tendency in clothes to pre-
sent panels from waist to ankles. There is an
epidemic of these panels. They put by
every tailor and dressmaker where they do the
most good or the most harm. They Egyp-
tian or, as some critic said, mid Mckinley.
They have allure and they have most evil pos
sibilities of ugliness.
The selection of the good and the avoidance
of the bad in this movement of dress are up TO
the individual. The part of the reporter is to
say that panels are ubiquitous and that the
tunic is slashed
4 woman with large hips cannot afford to
20 in for indiscriminate slashing below the
waist. She should always bear in mind the
fact that an open line at the sides shows the
curve of her hips where it is most perceptible
and often gives her a rotund look that could
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
The Irregular Hem That
Gives the Ragged Foot Line

When the house Of Premet invented the
gypsylike hem on skirts the world Of dress
thought it was an eccentrcity that could not
succeed beyond the footlights, but Premet be-
leved in it, and exploited it 30 hard and iast
that other houses took it up, and even the
sedate firms of Cabot and Cherult began 70
take liberties with the Straightforward hem
that had governed clothes for century
To-day we are so familiar with what IS
known as the ragged foot line that We accept
points and dips and curves which might nave
been marked out from the chart OF an arplahe
over the fighting front
The sketch which Is given to-day ana =
taken from one Of these new suits, shows a coaI
which departs in every modern way from 'he
Straightforward hem.
The material is beige twill serge. and over
the narrow, plain skirt the coat drops IN tie
drapery Of an irregular tUnic. The notceaoe
feature of this garment, however, Is not IN lts
irreguarity, but in that wide Bit Of Egyptian
trimming which is arranged m front through
the medium Of orange yermllon silk braid inc
high collar and long, tight sleeves are excel
lent evidence Of what is considered f2snionaoe
at neck and arms.
The majority Of the French designers nave
seen in the application Of brilliantly colorea
braid a way out Of the demure and sober zone.
of gray midnight blue and beige frochs. Egyp'
and Peru supply the source Of design ana eo,ol
and women can adopt or refuse the idea' U''
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
Cav Little Costumes for Children

The chdren's clothes Of this season are ~
demure. They do not cling 10 the c7n,entioh-.
lines. They ale going through a revolution,
that is not a return to the fantastic uglness OF
a former day, but they are not as French d.
the fashions that Paris children adopt
Women are adopting these juvenile fashions
with enthusiasm. They find that black vel'e';
all the shades Of hunting green japanese req
chiffon and Rumanan and Futuristic trln.'
mings are quite adorable when we'll worked OUT
The fashion for beaver fur and It's poor
relation, nutria, has dripped through into the
juvenile world, and coats of dark green, WIN
demure little beaver collars and caps, are worn
by those smart youngsters who are trundllnS
to school in the first autumn days.
The fashion for double belts and narrow
girdles, which controls the industry in aduIs
clothes, has also sfted through to the clothes
built on miniature lines.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
The Short or the Long Coat?

The skirt part Of every street costume is
settled Whether it carries short or long
coat, or whether it has its own bodice and
depends upon topcoat for warmth. it is short
and scanty. There is the ore exception, as
have said Of the pull-back skirt, with its
drapery at the end OF the spine
rhe coat however, is puzzing the tailors, as
we'll as the public. France evidently could not
make up her mind to put all her chances for
success into one throw of the dice. so she made
I,ussan tunics sashed at the side and called
them coats then she built three-quarter coat
with the high waist line of the Directoire and
the immense position cape collar that was
worn during the Revolution. Even then she
was not sure Of herself. so she threw in dozen
or more shor. coats.
The verdict Of those who deal in great num-
bers Of coat suits is that the three-quarter
length will he accepted in the beginning of the
season and the short coat will come into its
own after Christmas. There you are. You may
take your choice and pay out your money, but
you may regret one and lose the other before
the actual cold weather sets in. Twas ever
thus with fashions in October!
The short coats ripple at the hem and sag
bit above an extra wide, soft patent leather
belt
In contrast to these is the snugly fitting
zouave jacket of the French Algerian forces,
and as third choice there is the short riding
habit coat, which has come into high favor dur
ing the last two weeks. You know it well; it
is the kind of coat that looks best on the Ameri-
can figure l. has natural lines, without any
exaggeration. It's sleeves are long and almost
tight. II has reyers that are part of a neat,
turnover collar, and a row Of buttons in front.
The edges are bound with narrow silk braid
and there is usually pocket below the hips.
II is coat that comes in and out Of the
fashions, but can always be worn by any
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

extraordinary influx of belts, girdles, sashes
and waist drapery Of pleasant and sinister
kinds.
There are evening gowns that seem to be all
sash An immense piece Of drapery is welded
by an artist dressmaker into dominating
feature Of the frock by wrapping it below the
bust at or below the waist line, then resolving
it into a deep panel that drops the length
Of the skirt at the back, or into bulging bow,
with long fringed ends, that covers the entire
side Of the figure.
There are belts on some Of the new coat
suits which are almost corselets, and an &C
cessory of this type on the wrong figure would
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

the last two years, for what the French call "a
souvenir of a skirt and regret Of a bodice
have been combined to make the average
woman's costume.
However, as one reviews the skirts of the
moment, there is definite reason to believe that
the figure will look much as it did last spring.
Trimming is lifted from skirts; the hem Is
often ten inches from the ground, instead Of
eight; the fulness at the waist line has almost
vanished; the fastening at the front or side IS
not tolerated. But all Of these features Of
fashion are merely denominations of an accepted
style. The designers have cut down to the bone,
as it were, and given us all possible in the way
of grace, cleverness and beauty after sacritic
ing every inch of material that might have
been superfuous.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
YOUNGSTERS
COAT

Silver maple green
serge with bands of
beaver to finish a cape
collar. The sash is OF
dark green velvet rib
bon, and the cap is OF
beaver with a green rib
bon bow.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

woman who wishes constantly to appear vel
dressed.
All the coat suits which have come over from
Paris and are on display this month accentu-
ate the long, clinging lines OF the DIRECTOR
the First Empire, the Twelfth Century the
Italian Renaissance and the Byzantine epochs
There is no getting away from these periods IN
the worlds history. as represented in dress this
season, if one follows France. If one follows
America, the pu-back skirt, the small oustle
and the tight bodice Of the late nineteenth
century will be adopted
As for the coats there is enough of ripple
in the short French jackets 10 make them sec
ond cousins to the American hustle coat. This
ripple, however. is not the leading line IN street
suits. The riding habit coat is the best model
for the short jackets, and tie Dlrectore ana
the Russian blouse for the long coats.
There are other kinds Of coats which are
made to resemble tunic gowns, and 1t Is these
that the ong-limbed women carry Of we'll
They have an unbroken sweep from shoulders
10 knees. and because the French designers
have again entertained the irregular line at
the hem, the line is often from the chin 70 the
Ton of tha shoes IN front
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

TIME whole continent Of women is buying
autumn clothes. Those who preached
- economy. suspension of fashions,
standardized uniforms for women, the turn
ing of woman buyers in the industry of
apparel into the work of war relief, must
feel that they have preached in vain.
Naturally, there was a germ OF truth IN
what they said. Women do spend too mucn
on clothes in isolated segments OF society, and
the working woman probably spends more
than fair percentage Of her salary on frocks
This led TO lack Of saving by the wage
Garner and an initiation of prices by the eX-
elusive dressmaker who caters TO the rich and
careless; but these commercial episodes arc
part and parcel Of the web out Of which life
is woven. The girl who works usually does
so because she can have better clothes to wear
than the poverty of her home life affords, and
with better clothes she has better outlook
on life. more cheerful vision of hardships
Therefore, if she works, she has right to
spend her money in the way that gives her
pleasure and profit. A good array of sensible
clothes bought at small prices takes the drab
tone out OF life.
One cannot deal so leniently with the rich
and careless women who pay stupendous prices
for clothes under some false idea that they
are getting what is exclusive or what Is i'm
possible elsewhere In truth, they are merely
catering TO an initiation of values. They are
bostering up the fortunes of those who deal
in fancy prices with very little back of them
except the necessity to pay tremendous rents
and salaries If the gowns were exclusive TO
the rich and careless women, there would he
some solid foundation behind the price, but we
all know that, with few exceptions, every
French model and all successful American
models are copied by the hundreds, and that
no woman is sure of an exclusive style unless
she has it made and designed in her own work
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
As the Fashions Go

The reel of clothes that is running OF
quickly before the eyes of every woman is not
nearly so confusing if one brings to bear upon
it well-adjusted judgment.
The first impression one has is that the
vital changes are few, but this impression
gives way after a day or two to the feeling
that the changes, whatever they are are very
important.
The majority of women look at new clothes
in the light of contrast 10 old ones. There
are few women so wealthy that they do not
say when they see the influx of new seasonal
fashions, IF that is TO be the style, can
wear nv blue gown of last year
There will be a hundred or more remarks
like this made by the women who view the
clothes of the hour. France has not changed
her silhouette as much as America has. She
produced the lead pencil figure late last spring,
but America takes it up this October with an
enthusiasm that is usually given to what IS
original.
A few Of the American designers have ex-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

be easily concealed by another kind OF drapery'
The public found this out last spring, when
il became fashionable TO wear half-length coats
that were slashed at the sides. Even slim
women took on curves that were Objectionable
in the light of the accepted silhouette IL one
is flattened back and front the figure must
really be of the proportions of planked shad
in order to keep from bulging out below the
waist at the sides. 1t is far better to put the
panels over the hips and give the open line IN
front and back.
The question of belt on these tunics is an
other matter Of Importance. One may call the
waist drapery an accessory to the gown, but
the artist and the expert dressmaker concede
the fact that it is the kind of trife that makes
or mars the whole.
1t is we'll that every woman remembers this
truth during the remainder OF this season. She
will find, as the months follow one another, that
it will take all her ingenuity to deal with the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

aggerated the French idea. There have been
certain gowns sent out by wel-known house
and extensively copied by those who deal with
the trade over the country which put a
wcman's figure back to where it was in 1880.
The skirt is pulled about the figure until move
ment is actually impeded. 1t has all the symp-
toms of the famous pul-back skirt to which
the hustle was attached That appendage IS
also in fashion, but made so inconspicuous
that it cannot offend even the most conserva-
tive taste.
Odd as it may sound many of these pull
back skirts are longer than anything we have
had for four years. They have to be Of decent
length. for then tendency to lift at the back
and pull across the knees would bring the front
hem higher than the law allows.
It is mockery to refer to a law in dress, prob
ably, in the light of what we have seen during
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

They do not show the hustle or the pull-back skirt
but America presents this her silhouette for the
coming season-Experts say the three-quarter coat
will have full sway in the autumn and the short
coat be substituted after Christmas Brum-
mel and Robespierre inspired two of the models
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
What WeuDresed Women Will Wear BY ANNE FGTTEN4OUSE
Paris Clothes Accenuae the Favorte Lead Pencil Silhouette

turn good looking woman into a carlcature.
There is a nest of belts, four or five OF them'
linked together by some common cord at the
side and back and disposing themselves over
the entire middle Of the body.
There are actual corseets Of foriated jet,
of Egyptian tissue worked in turquoise and Jet
beads Of black silk braid on a satin or serge
foundation, and these reach from the bust to
the point of the hips, with the ends adjusted
by hooks and eyes OF by rows Of cioth-covered
buttons
These things are called girdles. They really
make the bodice. Some evening gowns are
built up around such a girde. 1t will be OF
fancful jet figures on a cloth of silver founda-
ton, for instance, and the top, which Is high IN
the back and has long, floating sleeves caught
at the wrist. will be Of silver and black tu!le;
the skirt will be made from two broad panels
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14
CAPE AND STOLE
CONFINED

IL is Of Hudson seal
and opossum, is straight
in front and forms a
ripping cape in back.
The sleeves are cut in
one with the back and
finished with opossum
tails.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

1t is shown in walking suit OF navy blue
broadcloth with hem on coat and skirt turned
nm 20 form A cuff. The waistcoat is fastened
with large silver button. The position collar
of fur matche: the muf.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-10-14

Of superb black and silver brocade, falling over
a short skirt Of silver and black tulle
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28

Chamber Gardening
Committee to Give
Report Tomorrow

Oklahoma City'S municipal garden
contcSt--the pioneer m6Nment by a
city in the matter OF cultlvAting vacant
lots-has indirectly been sanctioned by
the federal government Announce
ment comes from Washington that the
department OF agriculture is planning a
nationwide campaign IN the interest ot
home and vacant lot gardening.
Mayor OvcrholScr iathercd the mu-
nicipal gardening project last summer
TO convince himself that it vas possible
for family oi average size 10 live Oft
the products oi an acre OF gtound. prop.
crly tended
Result, were that tho winner of the
contest produced garden truck at the
rate oi $3.50 an acre
This year tie vacant lot gardening
proposition is being carried on under
the auspices OF the Chamber oi Com
mercc The gardening committee com
posed OF John K Boardman, Joseph
lIuckinS ir., and c, w Callarman is
scheduled TO make report on plans al
meeting at the Lee Huckns tomorrow
noon
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28


EIGHT ROOM hous" basement. furuHcc.
garage 400 block ". mn $3.50 scare.
Wal i,li
OWNER wired sell eiEut-Ioom house.
basement. furnace. garage roo block
" nm. 81 600 Sears, Wal iaA
NfW Groom bungalow. basement, hard
wood floors Nll built-in features $3.50.
Sears, Wal to'I.
EIGHT.uOOM house. 800 hlo,k y. ShaI-
tel '32ao Scnrr Wal $50
GOOD rNc-room. plsstcrcd house, Win
cement basement that Vil rent for 81
per month price 5000
nov SIX room buugaloS. besides
breakfast room three rooms, hardV God
finished an huilt-in features concrete
porch good sdrWalkr onc-half bio. X
east H.lle Isle car line on alst street Jet
us show you this beautiful hom" Wood
run n Groves. llsls y Broadway phon"
wal giI
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
LIVERPOOL

LIVERPOOL. T"h .N COTTON. spot
Tn modcrpt" demand. prices nrm good
wddlnp ll1Qi. w'dilng ~ C0I. low
mld1liug ~ va. 'tIus. 1000 halrs. fu-
rludlug 300 American Hud 400 pr
speculation ard export Receipts. 80 600
bales, none American Futures closed
steady Mur.h lp G1i, March Ami
l193t. NprIl-Nal. a. SSd: May June.
~ SD; juno Julv 10 Tod: July August.
10 esd, August September. 10 I3d: Sep
t,mhor October, lU usd. Octoher- Novem-
h"r. 9"id. Not+mhor December. gSid:
December. January. asa. january. Feb
ruOn, o ihd, February March. 2 9-5d;
March April 976d official noon cloe.
ms February, II lsd February March.
4 O1d
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
CITY REAL ESTATE FOR SALE.
In Answering Adj. Please Mention Time.

FOR SALE Four room house and psir
of lots. 500 G, A, FitEsmmons. looh
W Main 81 Phone Wal it5
NEW s.room bungalow, all floors hard
wood basement. garage close TO ClHs-
sen $4,000 Scars, Wal Li7
OWSER' wired sell S-room modern hun
galow, East 18Th, 81 500 small payment
balance easy Sears. Wal i5i7
EIGHT-ROOM house. hardwood bpso-
mont. furnace. roo block West l'ih.
want smaller house. Sears, Wal ijii
NEN s.room house. basement, furnace,
garage. half block Clhssen $3.50 Sears.
Wal tii1
TOu R.ROOM hougc. modern West 2is'
800 cash. Iroom house West 18Th.
500 cash Baxter. National Ridg
TWO Groom housef. East ith street.
$50 cash Baxter. National BIDS
AK ROOM house. east Capitol I'm. :
corner lots. 5000 cash Baxter, VA
'onnl Rldg
FOR SALE Pair lots 1900 block W SIN
street; bargain MA " Tth owner
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
ST LOUIS CASH GRAIN

ST. LOIIS. Feb . WHEAT SO .
red. 81 g7pg o3s 40 hard 81 0'i-
m COEN No q" 81 ON. No " white,
s. NlnlO Olig OATS $50 %. nominal so
white. nominal
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
New Town Pump for Carney.

CARNEY, Okla, Feb 2S The town
board OF Carney has installed recently
new town pump with a watering
trough for stock
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28

", - Decidedly slow trading 'on-
'urcd The market iu the local hog d..
vision t0tr AZ noon principally all
NJ the fresh supply WAS stll n FIRST
h'uds KeCcipta were good for Wed
uesdaN. around 800 head coming Pros
poets were for STEADY to strong mar
kct. with this kind selling il2k5ulg ~.
Rulk sold 81 10 .aud M
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
CiTYBRTEFS
{ ah,y thr.. Msrrlsa. LIeen~, l"u.a

tlpny tnfec msfflape Licenses lsuei
The hlEh cost 90 living docs NOT seem so
have discouraged tho Young mon Of ut.
lahomd county from taking unto them
selves a wife during the ulst puuth
Marriage licenses issued up 20 noon 60.
dav for the month ot February toialcd
eighty three Just one short NJ the NUM-
, Der issued during February. 1915 which
month had twcnty-uiuc DAYS Tho mum
, her issued during the entire month ~
January l'lh was ninety
Newcastle Bridge Tax Revived Plans
fnr tho building ~ u bridge over th"
South canadian NJ Newcastle we're dis.
uuss,i 900 maSSmcCting ~ citizens held
I In the council chamber ~ th" city hal. NCs-
t"rdnN afternoon ~ a rNTult NJ the con-
/ terence the county commissioner viii
! have a survey made NJ once The Okla
/ hom, county appropriation tor the bridge
vcutur" viii De mot either hv urIyni, sIh-
sefipuon or toN levy
DAMAGES for s25. 900 Asked Suit was
I begun iu the district court Yesterday Do.
John - BLACK administrator oi IN"
estate ~ Amanda \ Wlrh deceased,
against the Frisco railroad 'Or s., 600
damages IN" action is brought NJ m"
result NJ the death NJ Ms amanda Rt"k
whose au'omoNi'r Was struck %, q train
a. the South Robinson avenue Frisco
crosAing IN Noycmhcr l9le.
Dr. J. r. Dean dentist. 51i Ice Bldg -
] Adv
Father. In Law Mus, Re,lur. because
his suu.iu-hw Is "a candidate for maNot
IN McAlCs,cr. T. " tu" member " the
Pittsburgh county election board. must
resign hls position, according To rul.
ing made this morning lt Attorney
| i'wfal Freezing
CITY Pay Roll, Allowed 4 special
meeting NJ the city CuWwlus IOners was
held this morning Tor Tho purpose ~ nj.
lowing tho monthly ptlrols m Hll de-
/ partmcuts
Gardening Report Que Tomorrow The
Chamber ~ Commerce viii have mem.
hcrship meeting tomorrow nt i1 70 clock
I IN the banquet room " N, lee. lluckins
hotel The gardening committee VII at
| that time submit definite plan Tor cut.
/ ting down the cost nf lNing witch vii
he outlined b, good speakers The
movement TO land the cH'il'mcns con.
Nenllon in oklahoma CT, tor 1913 viii
also he discussed
Physician II. Sued Suit WAS filed in
| the district court this morning by George
7 Daniels against pr u \ McCahc.
local physician. iu which tho plaintiff
asks for damages in the sum " S..
NoO In the petition the plaintiff nl.
| leres that he employed IN McCnhc as
"A physician during the month NJ January.
/ 1915 and that the defendant attended
him tur some time but failed To piVc him
relief from his illness. hut that instead ne
grew worse he further alleges that on
one occasion the defendant failed to ~.
tend him for the space " hours and that
during that time his condition'grew stend
| lly worse aud he almost died
| M,re than m rsrt,,,ts have ,,,,,J
the American Womsn's League Tor
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-02-28
Money and Metals
LEAD ANO spELTER

NEW YORK. Fch Is LEAD Quot
g. .5Ha ,.. sprlter. quiet. spot Fast 50
Louis delivery l0i. NlOi- At London
lead $50 los, spolior st