Evening star., 1917-10-28
rts Of Americans to Produce Original Models
velopment of this particular fashion at

velopment Of this particular fashion at
any moment.
new type Of oriental skirt for evening
wear. 1t will prevail without doubt
among those who like what is new and
what Is graceful. and there is no deny
oriental skirt. and the good setting it
gives to slim ankle and well shaped
foot.
II there only could be a law against
women with broad. thick ankles and
broad feet wearing this type of evening
skirt, we would be a better dressed ma
tion. but as yet no censor Of fashions
has arisen.
This development of a new skirt is
not the only interesting feature of
fashions in this particular garment. A
certain set of designers is endeavoring,
despite the cry for economy in material.
to establish skirt that touches the
ankles for the street and the toes for
the evening.
A few of the best American designers
are back of this movement in an alli-
ance with the French. There are such
leaders as Callot. however, who make
no compromise, but cut the hens of
their skirts to the shoetops for the
street and an inch lower for the even
ing.
Callot has lost mono of her audacity
in uncovering the body, and yet 1t was
In her salons that I saw premiere
vendeuse clinch her hands and. with
eyes flashing, exclaim at the i'm
propriety of a woman who wanted to
order an evening gown during the first
month of the war. The answer to this
from Callot would be that if Americans
want to wear extraordinarily decollete
gowns cut half way to the knees she
a
want. She has nothing to do with their
morals, their spirit or their susceptible
ties. Truly. she seems to have clung to
these new frocks of hers with that un-
derstanding, for some of them are con-
temptuous of all the proprieties.
As an example of what this house
will do, there is demure black satin
gown that is wrapped into a definite
waist line and has barbaric strappings
of jet that hang across the bust, drop
below the waist and end in a huge
plaque with fringe. The front of this
gown .I, shows Il, the leg half way to the he
for half low frock by having band
of gold galloon across the shoulder
blades at the head of a single piece of
black silk tulle that has no lining to
the very bend Of the waist line. This is
tricking propriety with a vengeance!
The woman who wears the frock will
have to cut her corsets down to the
waist line at the back in order to ac-
Another piece of brayado is the way
Callot gives sleeves to her gowns. They
are long sleeves. oh, yes, quite covering
the arms well the back, but
and are attached to nothing more or
less than a moderately high girdle
which does not reach the arms at the
sides or back by several inches.
She has one gown with oyster white
sleeves and back of floating tulle made
from n piece of tulle drapery that is
banded for twelve inches with apple
green tulle, and across the front of the
wrapped satin bodice is a bias band Of
brilliant green crystal such as the
queens wear in court costume.
Opposed to these evening gowns, she
produces the robe of the stained-glass
saints. which has been described It Is
of swinging velvet, in cathedral colors
and covers up the entire body from neck
TO heels with the exception of few
inches of the neck in front.