Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-05-06
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

BY ANNE hx11 LEN ~ OoG.
E1HE American woman buys the
hat to match the frock after
the latter has been purchased
q The French woman buys the
hat first and matches the frock to II, or
chooses the two from the same dress
maker and keeps the one costume In
tact. So goes the criticism of the ex-
merits who make study of the I'M
nortant differences between women's
pethod of dress in various countries.
No one can deny that our methods of
choosing hats have left much to be
desired The usual quota of millinery
xes one hat for formal wear. one for
informal occasions. No matter what the
frock, the suit or the wrap the hat or
the hour was added to it.
When the shops made five-doliar mats
possible and pretty. then women began
to learn the lesson Of a completed cos
tune, which is the hat and the frocK
that go together. Each season the
demand for more hats, per capita, mas
increased, until the newer lesson TO De
learned is the perfect pose of the hat
the trick of disobeying fashion to bring
the hat into harmony with the face. 1t
is not easy, but 1t can be done.
AS a nation, we have gone quite mad
over a variety of hats, and we eagerly
search for something new and daring
Therefore, / sent over to the source OF
perfect hats for more information con-
corning what the smart milliners there
were making. and the interesting story
received is as follows:
The draped crown has been with us
of and on for long time, and now
that all the milliners have launcheo
IL they mean to try to make the feature
a success The crown rolls over in
LAYERS and often renders the hat heaEy
and old At the Riviera, where all fash
fonables have been running. the loose
crown is having great success.
The all-black hat has practically dis
appeared, and the houses which are
recognized as leaders in their art snow
- little that is dark. This might be new
idea, were it not that for one ana nan
years many women have purposely kept
away from black and its suggestions.
These hats in color are now mostly IN
taffeta. In peau de sole. IN SATIN, IN
that brilliant glazed straw known as
Nsere, and the other coarse, brush ef-
feet in fashion some years ago.
Caroline Reboux shows hats that are
immense not only the wide-brimmed
Breton sailor but a huge hat with
very high crown. These are picturesque,
and they rest low on the head. Some
times they are garnished with a wide
Alsatian bow that rests fiat across the
front; again with a band of rose leaves
built up as high as the crown There is
q tendency to employ the uncurled os-
trich tip, also aigrettes punched to-
gether and massed all around the
crown the tip ends fastened to II. AS
with the other milliners. crowns are
high here, but the height is relieved by
applications of all sorts-from the
trimming with tips to the straw MOTHS
sswed fiat against the crown. These lat
ter objects are in circles, scrolls,
anemoneS.
peau is seen in all it's glory, and with
Paris this dark Siberian winter it has
been the gay colored headgear that was
attractive. Then the dyes near geran-
ium-fiame. cerise. old rose. strawberry
are used. and evidently for the next
few months we shall see many varieties
Of the brilliant red hat. This color takes
well in picot straw. in lisere, in brush
straw and In tissues.
The hat is not ny-hued-that il to
say, 1t Is garnished only in it's own
shade; so to possess red hat that will
be success there must be but the one
single note. i did not see many COM
binations of colors at Rcboux's. Where
shades were intermingled it was the
case. Of a colored border only. and this
was of dye so soft that it blended
finely.
Lewis is making smart effects with
the yelled hat. This kind of millinery is
always alIuring, and when Paris last
saw it-about twelve years ago, people