davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
Echoes from tn French Atel'ers

" HE silhouette of the Middle Ages is so
popularity accepted and so overworked,
one might say, by all the designers Of
the world that the expert feels that TIE sar-
torial barometer will soon mark change
The straw which shows the incoming Direc-
toire styles, or at least a modification or adap-
tation of them, is that upward tilt that all the
dressmakers are developing in skirts and over
skirts.
A remarkable grouping of new gowns shows
the clever and subtle way in which the design
ers play with the peasant apron taken from
. the Brittany of other days. Cast into a new
play and given a modern role, this apron is
merely a panel of cloth used with "a few
gathers or sewed straight to the belt which
attaches it to the waist. 1t is also used to
provide that upward tilt which spells Direc-
tore.
1t is probable that the American nation
wears more solid and sometimes dowdy black
than any other nation in the world, through
a traditional belief that it is economical, con-
ventional and ladylike.
Now, when the French wear black, outside
of mourning, they make it so conspicuous that
it cries aloud to catch the attention of the
entire public Their black frocks scintillate
with jet; they are slashed to show black stock
ings and segments of bare skin; they are orna-
mented with flashing girdes and ropes of
beads they are combined with white in a man.
ner that leaves a red, purple or green gown
in the shade.
French gown of black satin made on the
new lines that Paris has adopted for what
ever gay occasions she sponsors starts out en-
tirely demure and ends by disclosing to the
public Chinese doll in brilliant colored en-
brodery and string Of Chinese designs ex-
tending from shoulder to knee. One could not
do anything more conspicuous than this, and
yet it is so deftly done and the colors are so
enchantingly Chinese-faded, antique. sug-
costing centuries of use--that one does not
object but. on the ether hand. stops to admire.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
Fashions Latest Whims and Fancies

is in frock of excellent design it is likely
to look awkward So don't attempt to wear it
unless you are quite sure the frock is excep-
tionally good
Velvet flowers are most effectively used on
many Of the smart little fur toques Of the
winter.
Monkey fur is used on some of the smart
new hats. Our simian ancestors might well
have quaked in their boots-but they didn't
wear boots, did they?-could they have fore
seen our modern disposition to use monkey fur
for trimming.
Georgette blouses are marked, many of them,
with little velvet insets These form very
good decorative feature. Sometimes they ap-
pear on collar and sleeves sometimes on the
front of the blouses.
Narrow cuffs of corded white silk extend
half an inch below the end of the sleeves of
some of the dark cloth frocks. They give
most demute finish.
Jet bugles are sewed in lines to form big
checks on a frock Of white net for evening
wear. The result is striking.
Nowadays when every woman tries to use
up all available materials she has on hand as
one Of the most helpful means of conserving
new materials, we often come across uncut
fabrics that we had forgotten we possessed
Lucky Is the woman who in delving through
her piece box or the trunk where she keeps
bits Of one sort Of fabric or another comes
upon a few yards Of white satin. Almost every
woman who was married in white satin has
somewhere in her possession n little of the
material Of the wedding dress that was saved
for future use. Perhaps you are sufficiently
lacking in sentimental feeling toward that
white dress--which you cannot possibly ever
wear again-to contribute the train or some
other portion Of it 10 the good cause Of fur
nishing you with some very nice accessories
at a small price.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
HOW THE FRENCH USE
BLACK
Informal dinner gown of black satin
with q Chinese doll design in faded
coIors at the side.

with its peaked crown, soft brim and colored
cords?
Since when have we worn clothes made out
of a single width of material that is caught
at one shoulder, draped across the back, wound
around the hips, caught again above the knee
and left to fall on the floor in folds that cling
to the ankles? This is That's and the Tanagras.
Since when have conservative women gone
about in the evening with gold band on one
ankle and broad gold band on the upper
arm? And when have women walked the
streets in the morning and afternoon with
Indian and Chinese chains dangling from their
necks?
How long has it been since an assemblage
of women at the theatre gave one ovid I'M
preston of a jungle full of tropical birds
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

The French evening gown as Paqun. Che
ruit, Poiret and Bulloz make it for the French
woman is exactly on the order of the gown
Of shrimp pink charmeuse intended FOR de-
butante. The shocking in shrimp pink threads
and French knots proclaims that fact. Smock-
ing is for youth, although quilting may be for
old age.
Paquin makes this frock without the cape
drapery hanging from the shoulders, black vel
vet with colored lining, and Cheruit makes
it in black satin with the front of the bodice
embroidered in gold and the skirt draped in
cascade effect at the sides.
Each designer has her own way of working
out the type Of gown which has been accepted
in Europe. The youngster needs a little less
severity than the woman over thirty ana
therefore she has shocking instead Of enbroid-
cry sash that wraps around the waist IN
stead of an ornate girde and bit Of shoulder
drapery that hangs below the knees.
Regard with interest the sleeve in this gown
1t is the smartest thing where France is con,
cerned, and it is offered to the well dresSeo
American woman by the buyers who kno"
what the Parisienne of position wears these
days. These sleeves are not put into the gowns
that are offered for the American trade, pus
they are installed in the frocks that are worn worn
in Europe. Therefore, our conservative
women over here desire them. Also, they are are
q novelty, and that is drawing card Tor INV
commercalists.
The floating tulle sleeve is still in hHa
fashion. This short piece of arm covering ths.
- crt in Nit tka
dominate the situation, but if you ask any on nI
who knows the very inside fashions you wiz
be told that the plain velvet or satin Slew
which partly covers the arm is neck ane"'
in the race for the blue ribbon.
Opposed TO this sleeve, as far as material
concerned, is the sleeve of the twelfth ee"
fury. which sweeps to the knees at the back
There are other sleeves that have ring ~ y.
bracelet of the material to hold them TO y.
hand, and then the velvet widths drop 20 "a
hem Of the skirt to point which is weisn"
by a metallic tassel.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

DeduS vi Sllhefl HOSS.
Wide girdles have deep, metallic fringe for
eight inches across the front and back, or
they concentrate the fringe over each hip and
let it fall to the knees in irregular strands
A wooiIen frock or a cloth coat suit will have
a girdle of velvet or Indian beads that drops
slightly in front and is finished with a fiat
pouch of gay embroidery from which long
silken tassels and fringes drop.
On the hats that the milliners turn out,
the crown band is finished with fringe at its
lower edge, or, reserving its simplicity until
it gets TO the side of the hat, it breaks out
into n waterfall of fringes that reach to the
outer edge Of the brim.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
;ch Are SUGGESTED bv Famous operate HOLES

intentlv and with an inside knowledge a,
scarcity of certain materials, prophesed tia,
the near future would bring about women,
clothes that were fashioned to be adjusted
without fasteners. France sent up some trial
balloons in gowns that were cut in two pieces
and tied around the hips by sash that was
hit of the material of the front width, and evi.
IDENTIFY these trial balloons proved that the air
was safe for the sending out Of dozens Of such
frocks.
The Americans have accepted them in high
glee. It is novelty that tickles the mind Of
the novelty-huntng American women. When
YOU see group of fashionably dressed women
eagerly talking and gesticulating, pulling out
pieces of a frock here and there and turning
themselves around as on pivot, you will real
ize that they are each explaining to the other
how the frock is adjusted without hook and
eve, without button and without loop.
The new coat suits have caught the fever
and some of the best are adjusted with merely
a loop of military braid run through button
hole and tied back on itself.
The smartest afternoon gowns have large
buttonholes from neck to waist, through which
are run pieces of braid or picot-edged ribbon
tving the two fronts together.
No woman who likes puzzles and who is
fond of trying out novel schemes can fail TO
be interested in this game. She can wear a
new gown with a new kind of fastening and
crow over her neighbors as though she had
taken in the largest subscription for the Lib.
erty Loan. 1t may develop into a pastme
if the interest and excitement in this kind
of clothing keen I'D.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

JERSEY vests and waistcoats are one OF
the good notes of the new fashions. They
~ are made to wear under the winter coat
~ suit Jacket. They are fashioned in many
,vavs Soma are sleeveless slip-overs, without
,oIiars Some are regulation waistcoats with
,ockets. Some have high collars, and more
arc on the order of little coatees They are
made in various shades of blue, green and
gray.
Soutache braid is used far more effectively
than ever before. The usual stitched bands
appear on some of the new frocks. But thefe
are also most interesting designs IN soutache
wherein the braid seems TO follow It's own
sweet Wit. An oblong block, for instance, APP
nears on the front panel of a skirt--placed a
biz on one side And Just when you think the
soutache has decided to make straight-about
rectangular lines it curves off into most un-
conventional little flower.
Beaded landscapes, with swans, children and
trees. form the motifs on some Of the new
handbags.
Velvet panels hang straight over rather
full skirt Of striped taffeta. They give the
clinging, straight look that seems TO be gain
ing ground in the seasons models.
Lengthwise stripes are characteristic OF
some Of the new scarfs for skating and walk
ing and other cold weather sports The scarfs
arc made Of angora, in white, or sometimes
gray or tan, and the stripes, in rich shades
Of yellow, green, blue and red, form band
through the centre, running lengthwise.
Shades Of green are among the most salts
factory Of the winters offerings in blouses
and frocks-that is, 50 far as the color itself
is concerned. Every one must remember, how
ever, that green is difficult 10 wear, and if 1t Is
not becoming il should be left untouched.
The pulled sleeve is very picturesque IL it
is rightly made this autumn. But unlsss it
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

Everything that was invented in clothes this
year had>a reason. Skirts were narrow be-
cause the French government limited the use
Of cloth to five metres. They were minus fast
eners because these accessories were difficult
to get and wartime activities demanded a
speedy method of dressing; so frocks were
made to go over the head and tie around the
body in primitive fashion.
Certain dyes were exploited because there
were no others to be had. Frnged fabrics
were introduced because applied ornamentation
was costly and the supply was vastly decreased
from that of former days.
Immense topcoats with interlinings were
made by the dozens because the French women
were compelled 10 walk through lack of taxi
cabs, and the American women were supposed
to have started on a system of economy which
would compel them to walk instead Of paying
money for taxis.
Voluminous peltry was applied to all cos
tunes because Of the intense cold on both
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
No Embargo Yet
On American Materials

At the moment of writing, our government
has not put an embargo on the amount Of
material to be used in each gown. Germany
and France both have done this, and those who
are in Paris say that the French dressmakers
have taken the keenest delight in following
the decree. A quantity of material in gown
has never appealed to a French designer, and
with the government behind the elimination
of fabrics each of the gowns turned out this
year shows originality OF conception and treat
ment in achieving an artistic result with
very few metres of cloth.
Some of the American clothes which were
designed before the French silhouette was
thoroughly accepted have taken their place
little behind the front row of fashions be-
cause they look bunglesome. Here is the
French silhouette as the best dressed Ameri
cans have adopted it: A slim underskirt made
in one piece that runs from the collarbone
nearly to the ankle in street frock and from
bust to within six inches of the ankle in an
evening gown. 1t is merely the skeleton Of the
gown, but on it are draped the few remaining
yards of fabric that are allowed TO complete
the work.
Therefore, it is quite fashionable to use
transparent material for the afternoon and
evening, in order to show the slim little slip
beneath. 1t is not necessary that the trans.
parent fabric used over this slip should be
cut off to correspond. 1t may rise to the
shoulders and drop to the instep and in that
very alluring transparency you get the East
Indian effect.
The statement may be taken as authoritative
that whatever gown has a gathered drop skirt
is out of the fashion. You may gather the tor
material but the lining must be slim and cut
closely to the lines of the figure. although It
is not drawn in at the waist.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
Flying Panels and
Dangling Fringes

Modern clothes, which means the clothes Tor
this autumn and winter, are said to be simple.
We all know they are not inexpensive. And
vet, even with their simplicity, there are so
many barbaric and exotic suggestions that
they give a good deal of delight to any one
Wild studies clothes FROM the point of view
Of color and personality rather than from
price and serviceability.
When. for instance, have we had season
sc full of fringes as now? When have we had
a winter in which six floating panels Of silk
were weighted down with Indian beads to half
conceal a pair of Oriental trousers that look
as though they were elongated envelope
chemises, or what the young girl irreverently
calls her "teddy bears'?'
When have we ever worn the hat MADE
famous in our Indian countries Of America
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
Even Feathers and
Furs Are Fringed

Feathers are arranged to look like fringes
Monkey fur and skunk are sashed and combed
and brushed until they form fringes, and the
peltry is applied TO evening or afternoon gowns
of chiffon and Georgette crepe. The furriers
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
The Slip-Over Gown Without
Buttons or Hooks

The most dominant fashion produced this
winter is the garment that slips on over the
head and has pieces of the material to tie
it into place. This is quite as primitive as in
the days when Melisande lived, loved and died.
a year ago, the reporters who study clothes
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

continents last winter and because Of the
scarcity of coal in Paris last January and the
promise of it in this country for this winter.
The Paris designers have given all kinds OF
anecdotal reasons for their gowns, and some
of the American dressmakers who are not
given to either narrative or reasons for their
clothes are repeating the French talk in an
interesting way.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
DINNER FROCk FOR
DEBUTANTE

Shrimp pink eharmeuse, with smock-
ing done in pink threads and a cape
drapery at back.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
SUIT
NEW
APRON STREET

Beige cloth, with Direc-
toire coat, novel collar and
apron bound with an en-
broidered band. The but
tons are purple.
flashing their long tails
and wings in the ARA
suggestion which is given
by the myriad of great
fans made of peacock
tails, or of red, purple
green and black ostrich
feathers, Of Chinese SAN
dalwood, of Egyptian
frond s, Of colored
aigrettes.
Mind you, every one Of
these fashions is in evf-
dence wherever one goes
among we'll dressed wom-
en-, and yet we assert that
the season is dedicated to
simplicity. 1t is, in a fash
ion, but we must learn to
place simplicity on a ped
estal that it has rarely
occupied.
1t would be interesting
to find out how many
miles of fringes have been
used for the W in ter
clothes. To go into detail
a bit: evening gowns are
made of panels or straight
widths of transparent ma
terial which have fringes
of gold beads or metal at
the hem; widely flowing
sleeves for afternoon and
evening frocks have the
same kind of fringe at
their lower edges or an
other kind made of jet
beads or silken floss.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11
RESTAURANT HAT FOR
THE EVENING

1t 10 of deep purple velvet, with long,
pale yellow plume falling over brim
at back.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

MUSICIANLY man made the state
"A ment the other day that if women
N would follow the fashions of this
autumn, they will look as though they were
taking leading roles in well known operas.
Aida, Amners, Natoma, Lakm@, Melisande
and That's are the operate characters on which
the French designers must have based their
work for this season.
Natoma is suggested by the distinctly
Indian clothing that has come from the great
houses abroad and copied and launched in all
the houses here.
Lakme is suggested by the Oriental clothing
with its ancient coloring, its dangling beads
and its glistening tissues.
Thais is suggested in the draping OF the
figure by folds of soft material, such as crepe
and satin, the drapery winding around the
body and revealing every curve and line with
out combining the muscles.
Aida has her prototypes to-day in the saw
age. primitive clothes, the brilliant blue anc
green necklaces, the barbaric armbands above
the elbow and the uneven, fringed hem Of the
skirt.
Amneris is seen in the ballroom and at the
dinner table in all the splendor OF her Egyp-
tan finery, her heavy, banded head, the large
waistline and the sinuous drapery about the
hips, to say nothing of the addition of gor-
geous peacock feather fan. .
A Startling Suggestion,
But True
1t was a startling suggestion, this one made
by a man concerning the modern woman
dressed for an opera role, and the critic OF
clothes saw in it truth that was both anus
ing and interesting.
CHANGING over the moving films of clothes
that are passing the eye to-day, one feels, in
the light of this new fact, as though one might
he in the salons of Marie Muelle of Paris, the
greatest theatrical costumer in the world
Through her rooms flash all the singers of the
world. Her knowledge of operate costumery'
her superb handling of colors, her ingenuity
in carrying out the best artistic suggestions
70 be found in the great museums and picture
galleries of France, are we'll known to all
those who live in the musical world. Muelle's
clothes represent the ages of the world: they
are colorful and superb symbols of every pow
erful race that has passed over the planet.
But what has the story of Muele's rooms
70 do with modern clothes? you ask. The
answer is that you could find the inspiration
for every gown you wear to-day in those
salons. if YOU looked with eye trained
10 detail and accurate observation.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

1t is in black velvet, with under
blouse and panel in skirt of white
broadcloth. II is made without
sleeves and held by belt that slopes
downward at the back. The white
mousselinc collar has a bright blue
velvet cravat.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

take rows Of tiny tails and
make fringes Of them for
the edges of the great
Victorian shoulder scarfs
which retain their place
in fashion.
Street suits made Of
khaki-colored velour
have immense, high col
lars of the days of the
Revolution, and these are
slashed at the edges with
a pair of sharp scissors, to
fall into deep fringe over
the shoulders. The girdle
is subjected to the same
treatment, and the sleeves
hang in fringes about the
hand below a band that
holds them in at the wrist.
If you are an economi-
cal woman and want to
provide the trimming for
your clothes in your own
sewing room, just get a
pair of sharp scissors and
amuse yourself as chill
dren do on wet days in
the nursery, by clipping
pieces of fabric in to
fringe. The children may
do it for you in a spirit of
sport, and the task will
keep them quiet for the
afternoon while you pre-
pare the rest of the gown
as a setting for these
yards of fringe.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

The pulled sleeve is very picturesque IL it
is rightly made this autumn. But unless it
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

Velvet panels hang straight over rather
full skirt Of striped tafFeta. They give the
clinging, straight look that seems to be gain
ing ground in the seasons models.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-11-11

Beaded landscapes, with swans, children and
trees. form the motifs on some Of the new
handbags.
Gilpin observer., 1917-10-04
navy EXPANDS ITS
ACTIVITIES RAPIDLY
Not Tagging Behind the Army in
Preparing for Its Part
in the War.

With a contingent in France, the
business of raising great number Of
soldiers under the selective draft, and
training camps, army activities have
overshadowed to large extent the
navy's bit in the war thus far.
But the navy Is not tagging far be-
hind, If it can be called tagging at all.
Here is the situation in the navy, gath
cred from official sources:
One hundred and fifty new destroy
ers are to be provided, in addition to
those now building.
Every reserve ship in the navy has
been fully manned, and great many
auxiliaries have been added.
Since the day war was declared, the
whole coast of the United States has
been under constant patrol by naval
vessels and every port particularly
well guarded.
Navy enlistments have reached 1885,
900. Ten thousand National Naval
Volunteers are in service, in addition
to reserve force of $4,000 men.
Contracts have been placed for every
destroyer that the yards of the country
can build. New construction records
are looked for, both in the number of
ships built and the time required for
building them.
Some 32,OOO-ton superdreadnaughts
are being built-the exact number is
not stated.
Five 35,OO0-ton battle cruisers, the
largest and swiftest ever contemplated
by any nation in the world, are under
construction.
Six formidable scout cruisers are
being completed.
Contracts have been let for many
needed auxiliaries for the navy.
The navy sent the first contingent of
the American armed force to France
corps Of aviators which landed
June 8.
The Aeronautic corps of the navy
has been greatly enlarged, several
new aviation bases have been estab-
lished and men trained in the opera
ton of seaplanes, dirigibles and other
types of aircraft.
The Marine corps has more than
doubled its enlisted strength.
A detachment Of marines is now in
Europe under General Pershing's COM
mand.
These are a few of the things the
navy has done so far. And they say
at the Navy Department they are just
beginning to do things.