davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
GAY HUES prevail
Some Petticoats Match Trimming
Of the Millinery or Gown.
Many Women Refuse to Discard Car
ment Despite Coming Of Narrow
Skirt Into Fashion Again.

Petticoats are said to be going out Of
fashion because narrow skirts are COM
ing into fashion again. Nevertheless,
there are many women who will never
be prevailed upon, style or no style, to
discard the most feminine garment of
the wardrobe.
For them have been provided many
charming models of soft silks and Of
chiffon taffetas. These materials do
not add any perceptible bulk to the
silhouette, while they give just enough
backing or foundation to the dress to
preserve the original lines.
The black petticoat is a rarity. One
no longer considers the extremely prac-
teal phase Of dress, but regards It
more or less of a duty to wear cheerful
clothes. If purple and scarlet, green
and yellow are too pronounced for out
er habiliments, then they may be mere
~ glimpsed beneath the tailored skirt
or the trotteur of serge or satin.
Il Is a pretty idea to have the petit
coat match the trimming of the MILL
merry or of the gown, If the latter shows
garniture of a contrasting color.
Some women have the petticoat of a
color corresponding with the hosiery (;
but If the former is very gay, 1t is
questionable taste to extend its jubi-
liant note to the ankles and thereby
practically destroy the charming effect
Of the color suggestion in the UNDER
garment.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

What is life without sweater?
Just like home without mother-the
next thing to impossible. Besides the
comfort Of them sweaters are con-
venient for the casual touch they lend
to the toilette, and they manage to
tone 1t up, or tone It down--depend-
ing on the kind of sweater and the
manner of wearing It. If one has
busy day ahead and begins 1t by
dressing for the afternoon, the sweat
ercOat cOnceals the fact. And smart
sweatercOat lends character to the
plainest Of morning or sports clothes.
Those who manufacture them have
turned out variety Of wonderful
sweaters and sweatercoats for women
and almost Us interesting an 0ssort-
ment for men. Soft, knitted wool ap-
pears to have outdistanced silk in the
race for popularity, but silk is never
theless well represented.
Two new models are shown In the
Illustration, one Of them an example
Of the "slip.over" which made its en-
trance last year to the glad acclaim
Of sports women. 1t Is very elastic,
loosely knitted and shaped to mold
itself to the figure. The ribbed waist
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
HANDMADE FLOWERS ON HATS
Newest Trimming Consists Of Gala
Lilies, Orchids and clematis
In Varied Colorinas.

Quite the newest and most charm
ing thing to do with your hat is to
trim it with flowers that are hand
made. The shops are showing beauti-
full things made Of chenille and fine
nets. For instance, there are Gala
lilies. orchids, clematis and tiger lilies,
as well as butterflies in varied and
brilliant colorings. Many shades Of
chenille are used to make the butterfly
look as IL 1t were poised upon the
gown. The bride is included in the
new trimming vogue. Her wreath Of
yore was made up Of white wax flow
ers; now she wears adorable white
silk roses set in silver with long
spirals Of silver. And her corsage
matches.
Nlmble fingers can make most at
tractive flowers out Of hand-tinted rib
bons. One sees morning glories, pop
pies, pansies, sweet peas, ETC., all Of
the tinted ribbon.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
FUR TRIMMINGS SAVE FABRIC
Coat and Suit Manufacturers Conserve
Materials by Using Only a Lining
Underneath Very Deep Bands.

Thrifty designers Of manufacturers
Of coats and suits on which fur Is
employed as trimming often use
very deep bands of fur about the coat
with only lining underneath, so that
the expensive material of the garment
Is economical and elbow deep cuffs
on the sleeves may be set over lining
only, also.
If extravaganza seems to be pres.
ent In the form of an ultra long suit
coat the wearer may point to the fact
that this coat covers skirt that Is
sheathlike as to width, and that could
not possibly be part Of suit en-
plOying short or medium length coat.
The fabric shortage and necessity
for conservation are real; but women
must be well dressed, and designers
are doing their best to meet cOndi-
tons us they are.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

matched sets Is shown here. 1t Is
made of sO-called patent leather, a
term that describes its appearance
only. 1t Is black and shiny but 1t Is
also thin and pliable as silk.
The hat Is faced with chiffon taf-
feta In light sand color with a hint Of
pink In it, and bound with narrow
black, grosgrain ribbon. A band Of
this ribbon Is laid about the base Of
the crown and tied In u little bow at
the front. The designer might have
stopped her with the assurance that
she had made satisfactory rainproof
hat. But this hat is made to smile In
weatherman for sending 1t. 1t Is gay
with beautifully embroidered flowers,
cut out from some Chinese or Japa-
nese garment and applied to the
crown. They are In many soft colors
done with the Incompatible fineness
and dizziness Of those Oriental needle
women.
The bag is cut In the shape of a
tall basket with handle that slips
over the arm. 1t will carry the knit
ting with which women of fashion oc-
cupy themselves, and other things that
have become necessities of life to her.
1t has an array of embroidered flowers
and butterflies that will repay study,
applied to one side of 1t.
II =. D-1\
I~"'~~''''"T1
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

"Where are you going, my pretty
maid?" has become almost foolish
question. All the pretty maids who
can manage 1t, are going along with
the matrOns, to some winter resort,
where they can wear specially de-
signed clothes and be as happy as the
day is long, seeing and being seen.
The sunny South has other charms
than its climate, for the tourist, and
the fashion parade Is one Of them.
There are some millions of US who
don't gO--or who stay only for brief
week or so, but we are keenly inter-
ested In the clothes that sojOurners
In the South are wearing. We know
that some Of the fads Of the winter
tourists will become the fashion Of
the summer girl, and-it is great
show anyway.
Among the lovely new arrivals In
smart sets that include hat and bag
to match or hat and coat or hat and
scarf, there are some weather-prOOf
pieces that herald the dawn of a new
day in rainproof garments. They are
us dainty and pretty as If made with
an eye to look alone, but they are
made of rainproof or mOisture-proof
materials, as rubberized silk or imita-
ton leather. Being mOisture-proof Is
a mere incident in the sum total Of
their charms; being beautiful is their
chief business in life and they bring
q price commensurate with their sue
cess.
One OF the handsomest Of the new
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
zoUAvEs WILL BE POPULAR
Idea Applied to Both Skirt and Jacket
In Collection Of Spring Models
From Paris.

Possibly the most salient feature Of
the collection Of models for spring
brought over to New York from Paris
is the prominence Of the zouave idea.
This does not apply only to the skirt,
for the elongated jacket is feature Of
the zouave dress, as Is also the bound
in hipline, and these features are all
repeated and played upon in this col.
lection.
While It may not seem that there Is
anything startlingly new In dropped
waistline, the manner In which the
hips are bound, the jacket and the
showing Of the blouse section under
the jacket Is distinctive. 1t produces
really another silhouette which, al.
though narrow, Is not straight and
binds In around the hips.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
SPORT COAT, PLATED SKIRT
Bright Red and Green Are Favorites-
Tweeds, Both Plain and Checked,
Made Into Simple Models.

For sports coats that are about
three-quarter length, instanced in a
khaki color gaberdine on military
. lines, there are any number of planted
skirts to select from, to go with them.
In one case 1t Is bright red-and-
green Scotch plaid, but many of the
clan plaids are represented.
Tweeds, both plain and checked, are
fashioned into simple models.
Only few open all the way down
the front-a sports idea characteristic
OF last seasons models.
All have pockets of the slot variety
inserted at varied angles and defined
by tailored tuck effects, the patch pock-
ct not being exhibited.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Mr.. and Mrs. Harrison Barnett
Riley of Evanston announce the mar
riage of their daughter, Miss Dorothy
Riley, to Kenneth Cotton Brown.
Mr.. and Mrs. Simeon Field Leonard
of Oak Park announce the marriage
of their daughter, Miss Margaret Eliz-
abeth Leonard, to Lieut.. George Ross
Hall of Fort Worth, Tex.
A benefit card party under the aus.
pieces of st. Patrick's Academy Alum
nae, Sisters of Mercy, will be held at
Garfield Park refectory Saturday at
2 o'clock. Euchre, five hundred,
bunco and bridge will be played. The
hostesses will be:
Misses-Anna Hursen, Marie ID.
Buhmann, Claribel Carey, Catherine
Connolly, Helen Flynn, Gertrude Hick-
ey, Bernice Harding, Julia Hursen,
Gladys Young, Mary G. Joyce, Marion
McOmber, Elizabeth Mcdonald, Kath-
Ign O'Laughlin, Lillian Ryan, Marga-
ISt cdChley,
Beryl Traub, Bernice Waugh.
Mesdames-Fred Brett, H. Deyo
Medbury, Richard Snowhook, J. ID.
Murphy, Hally Slower, Charles Witt.
hoeft
Mr. and Mrs. Stephen Baker May.
nard announce the marriage of their
daughter, Jane, to Grant Ford, son Of
the Rev. and Mrs. Smith Thomas
Ford, which took place last Saturday.
Mr.. and Mrs. Ford will reside in Wau-
sau, Wis.
Emmons Blaine and Miss Eleanor
Gooding were married Friday in the
Unitarian church at Portsmouth. N.
H., for which the brides father, Rev.
Alfred Gooding, is pastor.
Mrs. Robert Hotz was the hostess
this week for the Thursday morning
reading class.
The American fund for the French
wounded will benefit from the lectures
that were given Friday night In Or.
chestra hall by Lee Nichols and Capt
II. Hugh Knyvett. The committee in
charge comprised Mrs. Henry s. Rob.
bins. Mrs. Russell Tyson, Mrs. Ben.
jamin Carpenter, Mrs. Jacob Baur
Miss Marie Josephine Rozet, Mrs
George Shipman Payson. Among the
boxholders will be Mrs. John A.
Spoor, Mrs. Russell Tyson, Mrs. Mar
tin Ryerson, Mrs. William o. Good
man, Mrs. Reuben II. Donnelley, Mrs
Charles L. Hutchinson, Mrs. Watson
Blair, Mrs. c. Morse Ely, Mrs. d. Mark
Cummings and Mrs. Edward L. Ryer.
son.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
No Bermuda Vegetables.

There will be no fresh Bermuda
vegetables this winter. A delegation
of Bermuda truck growers who recent
" called at the shipping board offices
IN New York In an attempt to secure
transportation facilities to their New
York market were Informed that It was
exceedingly doubtful that any vessels
would be available for this use.
The Bermuda truck crop, which Ia
ready for market about January l. has
reached the New York market hereto.
fore on British bottoms. These ships
have bsen withdraw for war pur-
poses. ..-
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
LONG Capes.

The long capes are shown In plush,
In panne velvet and In various furs.
and also heavily brocaded satin. Such
models invariably have a tendency to
the "tube" lines, SO smart season or
two back. This line gives even the un.
fortunately "heavy set" matron the
simmer appearance SO dear to the
heart Of her. and this is bound to be
more popular than is the voluminous
folds Of very few capes daringly ex.
hihttad
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Sometimes you see a thing and you
call It pretty or beautiful for lack Of
a word that would express the real ex.
quisiteness and charm Of the thing you
were describing. This unusual boudoir
cap is Just that sort Of thing. II has
that Dutch effect, new this season, but
which has been In vogue on and off for
many years. Tho Venetian lace Is held
In place with narrow pique blue RIB
bon.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

line forms a knitted.in girdle and the
cuffs are ribbed, with border Of plain
stitches above them. Its browning
glory appears in the sailor collar OF
white angora yarn-a bit Of strategy
on the part of the designer that makes
this garment immensely becoming.
The handsome sweatercoat shown at
the right is more ample and much
more loosely adjusted to the figure. 1t
is an especially good model for slim
figures because Of the plated skirt
portion and the shape Of the collar
which widens the shoulders. The turn
back cuffs and girdle are knitted with
a narrow rib, but the collar Is fash
toned by knitting like that In the coat.
Quite number Of the latest sweaters
contribute this style feature Of dissimi-
lar collars and cuffs, as departure
from the regular order Of things.
Colors bright and gay continue to be
the privilege of sweaters and sweater
coats. The coat pictured is in gray
ish blue and is fastened ut the front
with large white buttons.
[sxv .Rz,:zaA,
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

The mothers froek consists Of q fas.
einatlng coat Of gray cloth, with .
waisteoat embroidered In black, silver
and cherry red soutaehe, and small
skunk collar. II 10 worn over q froek
Of black satin and gray chiffon. The
little girls coat 10 made Of blaek.and.
white checked eheviot, with collar and
sash Of bright green Jersey cloth fin.
ished with wool balls.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Charles McHugh, the genial propri.
etor of the Lexington Hotel. 10 doing
good work in improving conditions In
the First ward.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
EAGLETS.

Edward J. BirN. the we'll known
brewer. makes friends everywhere he
goes and would make . great race for
public once II no would allow HE
name to be used.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08
BUSINESS TOPICS
Care of the Feet.
The leGrand Foot Parlor.


Madame Florencia A. T. Powella.
Grier, who owns The lie Grand Foot
Parlor at 1914 North Clark street, has
for her patrons the best people on the
North Side. She is the original Dis.
coverer Of Comparative Scientific
Bloodless Chiropody. The lie Grand
Foot Parlor has been at 1914 and 134S
N. Clark st. for the past ten years and
twenty.eight years on the North Side.
Madame Powella. Grier, NJ. c., S. c.,
Doctor of Chiropody, successfully
makes sore feet good Sore feet are
made Good Feet at the lie Grand Foot
Parlor, 1914 N. Clark street. Tele-
phones Superior 1891, Automatic 49,
$50.
OUT Of Focus.
II you have head aches your eyes
are possibly out Of focus.
II your eyes smart and burn or the
movies blurr, your eyes are out of
focus.
II the letters run while you are
reading or il you don't see all things
clearly your eyes are out of focus.
II your child is pale and nervous
the chances are its eyes are out Of
focus.
Buck & Rayner's main store at
State and Madison has an expert who
will gladly examine your eyes with
out cost or obligation and frankly
tell you IL you need to wear glasses
or not. Those of our readers who are
now wearing glasses are invited to
have their eyes examined free and
they will be told II any improvement
can be made. This service is entirely
free.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Emmons Blaine and Miss Eleanor
Gooding were married Friday in the
Unitarian church at Portsmouth, N.
H., for which the brides father, Rev.
Alfred Gooding. is pastor.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Mr.. and Mrs. Stephen Baker May
nard announce the marriage of theil
daughter, Jane, to Grant Ford, son Of
the Rev. and Mrs. Smith Thomas
Ford, which took place last Saturday
Mr.. and Mrs. Ford will reside in Wau
sau, Wis.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Mr.. and Mrs. Harrison Barnett
Riley of Evanston announce the mar
riage of their daughter, Miss Dorothy
Riley, to Kenneth Cotton Brown.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Mrs. Robert Hotz was the hostess
this week for the Thursday morning
reading class.
Chicago eagle. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1889-19??, 1917-12-08

Mr.. and Mrs. Simeon Field Leonard
of Oak Park announce the marriage
of their daughter, Miss Margaret Eliz
abeth Leonard, to Lieut.. George Ross
Hall of Fort Worth, Tex.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30
IOOAy'S BEAUTY HELP

We find you can bring out the
beauty of your hair to its very best
advantage by washing IT with cam
throx. 1t makes a very simple, mex
pensive shampoo, which cleanses the
hair and scalp thoroughly OF all the
dandruff. dirt and excess oil. leaving
wonderfully clean. wholesome feel
ing. After It's use you will find that
the hair dries quickly and evenly, is
never streaked in appearance and Is
always bright. soft and fluffy; so fluf-
~ in fact that it looks more abundant
than IT is and so soft that arranging 1t
becomes pleasure. Just use tea
spoonful Of canthrox which you can
get from any good druggist. dissolve II
in cup of hot water. this makes
fun cup OF shampoo liquid. enough so
IL Is easy to apply IL 70 all the hair in
stead Of just the top OF the head
Adv.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30
Lemons Beauty!
Strain lemon Juice we'll before
mixing and massage face,
neck, arms, hands.

Here is told how to prepare an in
expensive lemon lotion which can be
used to bring back to any skin the
sweet freshness of which il has been
robbed by trying atmospheric condi-
tions. Windchafe, roughness, tan and
rcdness are warded off and those tell
tale lines Of care or of age are soften
ed away
The juice of two fresh lemons
strained into bottle containing three
ounces of orchard white makes "a
whole quarter pint of the most re-
markable lemon skin beautifier at
about the cost one must pay for Il
small jar of the ordinary cold creams
Care should be taken to strain the
lemon juice through a fine cloth 50
no lemon pulp gets In. then this lotion
will keep fresh for months Every
woman knows that lemon juice is
used to bleach and remove such bIem-
ishes as freckles. sallowness and tan.
and Is the ideal skin softener, smooth
ener and beautifier.
Just try IT. Get three ounces OF
orchard white at any pharmacy and
two lemons from the grocer and make
up quarter pint OF this sweetly fra
grant lemcn lotion and massage II
daily into the face. neck. arms and
hands, and see for yourself.-Adv
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30
Hopes Women Will
Adopt This Habit
As Well As Men
Glass OF hot water each morn
Ing helps US look and feel
clean, sweet, fresh.

Happy, bright. alert--vigorous ami
vivacious-a good clear skin: a nat
ural rosy complexion and freedom
n ON Illness are assured only by clean,
healthy blood. II only every woman
and likewise every man could realize
the wonders of the morning lnsid q
bath. what a gratifying change would
take place
Instead OF the thousands OF sickly,
ic-looking men, women and
girls with pasty or muddy complex
Ions; instead Of the multitudes Of
nerve wrecks" 'rundowns" brain
fags." and pessimists we should see q
virile, optimistic throng OF rosy
checked people everywhere.
An inside bath Is had by drinking,
each morning before breakfast, a
glass of real hot water with q tea
spoonful OF limestone phosphate in IL
to wash from the stomach, liver, kid
neys and ten yards Of bowels the pre-
vious days indigestible waste, sour
fermentations and poisons, thus
the entire alimentary canal before
putting more food into the stomach
Those subject to sick headache. BILL
iousness. nasty breath, rheumatism.
colds and particularly these who have
a pallid, sallow complexion and who
are constlpated very often. are urged
to obtain quarter pound Of limestone
phosphate at the drug store which
will cost but trlfle, but Is sufficient
To demonstrate the quick and remark
able change in both health and ap-
pearance awaiting those who practice
Internal sanitation. We must remem-
ber that inside cleanliness Is more i'm
portant than outside. because the skin
does not absorb impurities to contain
inate the blood. while the pores In the
thirty feet OF bowels do.--Adv.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30
S!:'!!'o!!!:e::i!efY S!:'!!'!!!: Il! (: &:,:e.:,:!t4,,:s &:,:.:,:! =:
RSJ/DENcE 1900

tendants Mrs. Hull matron Of honor,
and the Misses Mabel Claire Witt and
Dorothy Dorm, bridesmaids. The bride
In an only daughter Of Mr.. and Mrs.
w. G. Connolly OF Fourth and Nogales
Mr.. Roth is son Of Mr.. and Mrs. ]. e.
Roth OF Fairfield, Iowa, and a brother
Of DR.. Albert W. Roth. He has been
u resident OF Tulsa since his gradua-
ton from Cornell, four years ago,
when he came here 20 engage in the
oil business.
.Matrons and girls who were guests
of the announcement party included
Mesdames w. e. Connolly, Wiley l.
Stewart, Paul Jones, Harold A. Wake
field. Frank w. billiard, Harold D.
Breene. Merl V. Cadman. Ross w. Ray
burn: Misses Bess Hudson, Mabel
Claire witt and Dorothy Dorm. The
first Of series Of prenuptial parties
VIII have the Misses Dorm and Witt
entertaining at the end OF the presen,
week,
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30

NOVEMBERS first announced
bride-elect is Miss Kathleen Con-
molly, whose betrothal and approach
Ing marriage to Mr.. Edwin X. Roth
was made known at a beautiful lunch
con company with Mrs. J. Dewitt Huh
as hostess yesterday afternoon at Tea
Cup Inn. The table centerpiece was
formed of pink chrysanthemums and
favors Of the same flower reposing at
the guests places held the cards of the
bridal couple elect, bearing the date
OF their wedding day Wednesday, No
vember "a. The wedding will be ceie-
brated at Trinity Episcopal church
and the bride has named as her at
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-10-30
PLANTS GROW IN BOOKS
In Some Cases Constitute u Miniature
Botanical Garden.


We have all heard of the worms
that live in books and do so much
damage, but until recently II was not
known that books also have plants
which thrive inside their covers. AS
a French scientist has discovered.
most books show traces of plant life
on their leaves and in some cases this
life Is consideredable enough to con-
stitute a veritable miniature botanical
garden.
The plant life in books shows itself
in the form of tiny yellowish. black
or reddish spots, which we so often
see on the pages of both new and old
volumes. The plants are nothing more
or less than a low form of mushrooms
which sometimes envelop themselves
with protective covering and, when
mashed by pressure OF the sides of the
books, secret the colored liquid which
spreads thru the page.
The necessity for finding out the
cause of these discolorations was an
urgent one. Paper manufacturers
have long been complaining that even
the highest grades OF paper would
often show spots after having been in
corporated into a valuable book. After
n short time the colored spots would
spread on the leaves and greatly re-
duce the intrinsic value OF the volume.
DR.. Pierre See has not only proved
that these spots are plant formations,
but he has even been able to trans
plant them and make them grow so
that they can be distinguished as com
mon forms Of fungus.
In making his researches, DR.. See
became new kind of gardener sys-
tematically cultivating the fungi
which caused the paper spots. He
wanted to have the material in which
he raised these plants as free from
bacteria as possible. so that only the
plants which he introduced would be
the ones to grow. He utilized carrots.
potatoes, licorice. paper. wood and
many other things on which TO raise
these plants in miniature hothouses.
The most successful growths were OBJ
tained on licorice roots.
First. he thoroly sterilized the lico-