davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-07-04

AT GARBER-According to tele-
gram received from II. A. Adams, the
Spencer test on the Meisner farm in
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

the same way. Join the ends Of the
cuffs and how best to finish the upper
edges will depend upon what material
you are using and how you will trim
the blouse. Join to the sleeves with
the seams and the notches exactly
meeting and the wrong sides together.
then haste and stitch on the seams.
Whip the edges together for neatness
and turn the cuffs up over the sleeves
In cutting the facing with the
pockets, allow one inch at the upper
edge Of each pocket extension for
hem. To make the facing with
pockets, join the edges that are marked
by the single notches and press the
seams open. Turn the upper edges Of
the pockets under one-half inch and
again to make . one inch hem and
haste. Then turn the seam allowance
on the sides Of the pockets and on the
upper edges of the bands under and
haste. Join to the lower edge Of the
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

inches wide and there are great many
that come in that width. and it is, per-
haps, the most economical, but you
will find that the suggestion is good
one whatever the width Of your ma
terial may be. for you ~;ll see just
what pieces are to be laid on the fold
and how they are to be arranged.
Diagram No. shows you Just how to
put the pieces together and il you
study them both you will find that
you can have no difficulties for every
thing is explained even without the
envelope that accompanies every pat
tern. while that valuable portion Of
your purchase will give you still further
help.
All the seams are allowed. therefore.
smooth out your pattern carefully.
pin it to the material and cut around
the outside edges of the tissue. Mark
through the little perforations near
each edge and how best to make this
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31
Summer DAYS will Bring Demand for all Of These

Undoubtedly the military element
viii take conspicuous place in the
prevailing fashions. Already, blue
suits with brass buttons are met upon
the streets and dealers arc displaying
camping suits Of khaki held by brass
buttons bearing the Eagle or similar
device.
Capes are gaining in favor day by
day and attractive and practical ones
are made Of navy blue wool materials.
some lined with blue foulard dotted
with white. some with red silk.
Wool jersey appears to be con-
SANITY pushing to the front with per-
istent strides. :. charming costume
consists Of simple chemise dress with
sirdle Of the same and only white
organize collar to relieve it, with a
long military-like cape with a big
collar, that is almost a second smaller
cape, Of white jersey.
Blouses grow more and more femi-
nine and more and more dainty in
eject. Charming ones are made Of
fine, sheer handkerchief lawn with en-
bfoidery used sparingly and with great
eject and with trimming of 6let lace
On the collars and sleeves.
Blouses Of such transparent material
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

of the material as wide and al long
as you want it and finish the edges,
then pass around the waist as illus
trated, or for the belt, line and attach
at the under-arm seams.
To make the sleeveless over-blouse.
you can either stitch the under-arm
seams or you can undertake the front
edges and finish the back edges with
extension laps and button into place.
Cut facing for the neck and arm
holes exactly to fit and stitch the
outer edges together. turn under the
garment and stitch into place. either
by machine or by hand.
II you like the effect Of the buttons,
but do not wish the labor Of making
the button-holes, you can lap the
front over the extension on the back
and stitch to position, and then sew
the buttons on to give an ornamental
effect. Buttons are so extensively
used for trimming this season that
that treatment would be in every way
a desirable one. What kind of but
tons you will use will depend of
course upon your material, but If it
is possible, it is pretty to cover little
moulds with the fabric itself and
perhaps to work some tiny little EN-.
broidcry on each. There are very
simple forms Of embroidery that are
used for this purpose and every touch
Of hand work will give finish to your
garment. As matter Of course, you
would put buttons on the belt to
match If you adopt this trcatnieat.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

as wolfe are giving evidence Of the
return to favor of shadow embroidery.
An attractive one shows this familiar
and simple embroidery used in bolero
effect while the collar is bordered with
very wide Val lace, that is carried down
onto the blouse itself to form a bertha.
Cape wraps take every possible
form. There are tiny ones that only
cover the shoulders and there are long.
enveloping ones that conceal the entire
gown. Georgette crepe and chiffon
are favorite materials with trimming
of fur although the all fur wrap also
is seen.
The uses to which silk Jersey is
being put are constantly more varied.
A smart frock is made Of dark blue
satin with white silk jersey embroid-
cred with blue used for the trimming
sections.
Novelty collar and cuff sets that
have been met with enthusiastic favor
are made Of white pique with little
embroidery worked in the National
colors.
With tailored suits the high stock
collars with very full soft jabots make
favorite finish. They are found in
net and in lace and in net trimmed
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

with lace and also in the favorite
Georgette with picot edge and little
embroidery to give finish and dainti-
ness
Blouses Of coiored batiste with white
collars and cuffs and trimmed with
white lace are much in demand and
are being met with enthusiasm. Worn
with skirts Of matching color they
give the costume available with little
effort and moderate cost.
There seems to be no limit to the
novelties shown in sports skirts. The
latest are made entirely Of ribbon
sewed together in strips. White
MORE alternating with richly Aow-
cred ribbon makes favorite combina-
ton. Since many Of the lowered rib
bons sell for as much as three dollars
yard it is far from an economical
fashion.
As matter Of fact the term Sports"
is misplaced fol they are really very
dainty skirts to be worn out-of-town
in combination with blouses Of Geor-
gettc crepe and crepe de chine and
materials Of such sort, and very often
these blouses will show some little
touch of color that repeats the pre-
dominating color found in the skirt.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

little more than the seam allowance
and turn under and stitch or you can
have the edge finished with the picot
or cut hemstitching il the material is
thin enough or you can turn the seam
up onto the right side and finish with
rows Of braid If you like that treat
ment. and, as matter Of course, you
will make the cuffs to match. Join
the collar to the neck edge with the
center backs and the notches exactly
meeting. If it is unlined. take the
seam up on the right side and roll the
collar over. If it is lined join the out.
side to the neck edge and hem tho
lining over the seam. Finish the edges
of the shield in any way that you like
and arrange under the blouse with the
upper edge meeting the notches.
Stitch the right side to position. upder
the collar, and attach the ieft with
snap fasteners.
For the girdle, cut lengthwise strip
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

marking will depend upon your ma
,eriai Tailor's tacks are good for
everything but II tracing weel can
be used il will be simpler, and some
women will mark with crayon and
after removing the pattern pin through
each perforation on the under side to
see exactly where the crayon marks
should be placed there. If you like
the facing at the lower edge, but do
not want the pockets. cut off on the
indicating lines, but for sports use it
will be well to use the pattern just as
it is shown in the illustration. II you
are going to make the sleeveless blouse
you would, Of course, cut the pattern
out on the indicating lines before
placing it ON the material and omit
the sleeves.
As first step in the making, join
the shoulder edges that are mai ked
G-I), take up a very narrow seam on
the right side. then turn over and
stitch a second time on the perfora-
tons. If you are making the blouse
with the sleeves. join the sleeves to
the arm-hole edges, the notches ex-
actly together and the single. large
circle at the shoulder seams. Be
careful to hold the sleeves toward
you as you haste to avoid any posi-
bility of strain over the shoulders.
, Again take up your double seams.
first a narrow one on the right side,
then a wider on the under-side. As
third step close the under-arm and
the sleeves seams together in exactly
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

sleeveless blouse is liked made of the
favorite wool jersey, for sports silks
and for linen to wear over sports
blouses, and it also is liked for silk
pongee and similar materials to be
used over the thin gown when little
extra warmth is needed. For the latter
use, a girdle would be better than
belt, but for the sports costume belt
is to be preferred. As you will note
by the illustration, with the sleeve
less blouse the band at the lower edge
and the big pockets are omitted.
Various materials are used for the
blouse with sleeves. in fact, almost
everything from crepe de chine to
wool jersey for it is good model for
pongee and for any sports silk, andit
is good model for silk jersey and it
is a good model for linen and tor
cotton gabardine and it also can be
used for the khaki which We are likely
to wear so much this Summer, although
for khaki or material OF similar sort
you would use the belt. not the giidle.
As there is no opening there are no
buttons to be sewed on but button
holes to be made, no straps to be at
tached and the labor Of making is
greatly reduced. In the large illus
tration at the left, the blouse is shown
made Of gold colored pongee with trim
ming of gold color striped with old
blue to be eminently picturesque and
adapted to country wear.
The diagram No. shows the gar
ment laid out on material forty-four,
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

this sort yourself and shrink the ma
terial yourself you gain an advantage
that is not to be obtained by any other
means. New linen and new pique will
shrink and when you buy ready-ulade
hat there is always danger of its be-
coming too small after the first
cleansing. The two little girls hats
show new styles and good styles.
They ale very charming and neither
is difficult. No. $40 is designed especi-
ally for linen and tor pique and for
materials Of such weight, but you can
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

Here, it is made all of one material,
but a great many girls will like to
make the skirt Of a striped Of figured
fabric and the coat OF plain one with
the collar, cuffs, revers and belt match
ing the skirt. Wool jersey in old blue
or in gold or in tan with the collar and
cuffs of white washable satin will
make very smart suit and at the
same time serviceable one, for it is
always possible to attach the collars
and cuffs with snap fastenings and so
to make them easily removable for
cleansing.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

blouse. the center fronts and the
center backs exactly meeting and take
the seam up on the right side. Turn
up onto the blouse, basic carefully into
position and stitch the sides Of the
pockets and the upper edges Of the
bands into place.
The collar can be finished in one Of
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

n lever have children's fashions
N been quite so fascinating. Gar
ments are simple and they leave
the little ones perfectly free to be happy
and enjoy life, at the same time they
are lovely in color and attractive in
design and they often take on an emf
nently picturesque effect. Smoking
and scalloping and simple embroidery
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

@OUN1RY costumes or the cos
tunes for out-of-town wear are
exceedingly attractive this sea-
con. The best dressed women are
wearing bright colored materials but
avoiding gaudy effects, and the cos
tune designed for young girls and the
women's blouse above make good ex-
amples Of correct style. Here, the
blouse is made Of a gold colored ma
terial and the trimming is gold color
striped with old blue. The suit at
the right is appropriate for the wool
jersey that is such favorite, for
--onRee and for the various sports silka
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

Straight trousers are the accepted ones
for the tiny boys and there is a ten
dency toward plain little coats taking
the place Of the blouses that hereto
fore have been tucked and plated
and made fancy in one way or another.
Linen, pique, linene and galatea and
all materials Of such sort are greatly
in vogue. For the very warm weather
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

folk, but the boys and girls of two and
Of three and Of four are wearing them
and the girls Of even more mature
year,. In the illustration. there is
shown one essentially masculine hat
that is designed for the boys who object
to anything that looks a bit girl-like.
1t is very pretty little hat with the
crown buttoned to the brim and it is
also q very simple hat to make.
Mothe, who are considering the
Summer wardrobe will surely be glad
q that. and when you make hats Of
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

therefore the hat Of white embroid-
cred with color is much liked and also
the hat Of color that is embroidered
with white. and No. $40 lends itself
with peculia. success to his latter
treatment.
You can, Of course, use No. 500 in
the same way. and you will find that
the white hat embroidered with color
and trimmed with ribbon to match
makes very charming effect. Darker
color frequently is used on white for
DO! s wear, loo, and the hat No. 89I
made Of white pique embroidered with
dark blue would make a very smart
effect. or you could make it Of dark
blue and embloider il with white.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

is greatly in vogue, not alone for the
little girls but for the younger boys
as we'll, and whatever needlework is
used there will be certain sense Of
daintiness. Rompers continue to be
the all-accepted garments for the
rough and tumble play. but there are
charming little suits that many
mothers like even for morning wear
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31
Embroidered Hats are Smart for Little Boys
as Well as Girls

w WITHOUT doubt the hat Of
w linen or Of piqu& that is en-
bfoideied is one Of the sn,altest
% we'll - one of the prettiest and most
ehildiike that the little one can wear.
This season not alone the very tiny
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

HE s!ip-over blouse is one Of the
best liked Of the season and you
can make this one with the collar
and with the sleeves that are set in
at the dropped shoulder line, or you
can make it sleeveless, shorter and
without a collar, to an entirely diff
ferent garment. II you are at all clever
with the needle. you can use the one
design for two distinctly different
results. Both styles are fashionable
but one. Of course. serves somewhat
different purpose from the other. The
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

a great deal Of plain colored gingham
will be worn for the boys suits as we'll
as for the little girls dresses, and the
plain chambries or ginghams OF
the season show very attractive colors
and exceptional variety but. perhaps
there is nothing that will make a
keener appeal to the boy himself than
the white suit.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

several ways and which will be best
will depend entirely upon the material
and the use to which you wish to put
the garment. You can line it, cutting
the lining exactly the same as the
outside and using the material Of the
blouse or the trimming material or a
thinner silk or lawn. You can allow
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

dainty and very charming in handker-
chief lawn or in thinner material
This is essentially a color season.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-07-31

make No. SIo Of such material or you
can make it of thinner and lighter
handkerchief lawn putting a lining
under the crown. The double brim
with its pretty deep scallops is very
Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-10
PARASOI.Ss:

From hundred or more styles
of pretty parasois in this sun
shade corner, something which
particularly pIeases your fancy
should be found. Purse as well
as fancy may be satisfied for
there's every sort Of prices as
we'll as every sort Of parasol.
Second Floor
Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-10
SILKS

-. have bargains prices in
III s,1ch a wide range of silks
'sose Best qualities now Of
:, N this Anniversary Sale.
Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-10
NOTIONS

Here's chance to make small individual savings notions
of rreproachable quatheyI the little savings that wher
multiplied count.
Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-10

! .o1ored Messaline, SO 1 1E
hes wide, yard .I'Zu
o colored Taffeta, sc | o.
has wide, yard I'ZU
!, black Peau de Sol, 36 I ~
hos wide, yard .-.... I'IJ
b black Taffeta, sc in o.
Is wide, yard I'Av
k Crepe de Chine, 40 in 1 I'm
5 wide, all colors, yard ''oo
5O black wash Silk, 36 I m
hes wide, yard I'Vo
white wash Silk, 81 in co.
Is wide, yard ......--.-.----....v0I
\ white wash Silk, SO 4 M
hes wide, yard ,......... iIVV
k white wash Silk, 36 4 Ok
hes wide, yard lEAV
n silk Shifting, asset 1E
stripes, yard .... l'zO
70 silk Shifting, beauti- IN
assortment stripes l'Jv
5 colored wash Silks, &c I 1n
hes wide, yard .......--.... f'AV
10 all Silk Pongee, nat 1 nm
al color, yard - fnvV
Is all Silk Pongee nat o.
ii color, yard ..... I'&O
70 all Silk Pongee, nat 1 IN
al color, yard ........-.... 1'UC
% all Silk Pongee, good Z mn
noe of coolrs, yard ...........ZIUU
Foundation Silks, large as
rtment of colors, 36 in Q0o
es wide, yard .......................,JJ0
Foundation Silks, SO in EGc
is wide, colors, yard. .JJI
Silk and Cotton Crepe E0n
Chine, colors, yard. VJG
Silk Poplins, large as 60o
ktment of colors, yard. .UJO
% fancy Figured Pop En|
j., 36 inches wide, yard i,UV
20 Silk and Wool Pop 4 1E|
Is, 40 inches wide, yard l,ZU
20 Pussy Willow Taf- 4 M
IA, 40 inches wide, yard ZsuV
B0Silk Charmuse, 40 in q NEs
les wide, yard .......... ZpZU
5 Georgette Crepe, all I QE|
brs, 40 inches, yard........... lsUJ
Inch Cotton and Silk Georget-
Crepe in sport dots, 4 m
prth l.50. now ....................... l'UV
finch Sport Tusahs, sport
pt designs, worth Its 4 mn
Fd, now tsUU
Finch white Corduroy that
fshes, for skirts and TX
PTS, worth 1.25, now...... VI
GUNNER DRESS FABRICS
v Silverbloom, in stripes 7ko
q solid colors, yard ..... W
70 Palm Beach Suiting, stripes
q solid colors, SO inches, 7Eo
Pa .. ........... . :. :. :. W
20 all wool Summer Serges,
inches wide, large asst 4 m
Fnt Of colors, yard tsvv
PO fancy Serges and Suitings,
Eeks, plaids and stripes, 4 M
fd .. ... ,UU
! cotton Suiting, plaids and
ney designs, SO inches m,
|e, yard ........ ..ZJU
|MBRoIDERY FLoUNCING
Fmch All Over Embroidery Or
tleles; worth 1875; Sixth 7Eo
P|nlVersary Sale, yard u
inch Organdy Embroidery
tuuln1clngs, very dainty designs;
prth l.25 and $50; no.
Nv, yard ......................J OC
| ~ i--s-~-s-.,..ur ,-...,..,. --r-,,,,
linen Organdy Embroidery
palelngs meat and attractive
6 T. worth up to 1.50, Q0o
Nv, yard ...... 0JC
kinch =,
Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-10
Wash Dress Materials

i have made possible the splendid
values offered in this Anniver-
sary Sale.
75c Sport Stripes in wash An.
sklrtIng; SO inches wide fJG
39c Striped Skirting; SO m.
inches wide, yard ......... kJG
Fancy Voiles and Tissue Voiles :
SO inches wide; stripes, checks
and floral designs; values range
up to soc per yard, o.
now ,.--.---.....-.-.-..,. y u u
SOC fancy Voiles; 40 inches wide;
stripes and figured de- m.
signs, per yard ........................ kJU
Use white Skirting; striped Cab
erdines, Bedford Cords; En-
also other fancy weaves. .JJE
SO cent white Skirtings, such as
Piques, Poplins, Reps, Whip
cord and Gaberdines, per OK.
yard :. ............. JJU
| Up to 35c Sheer Batiste and Tis-
sues; stripes and floral de- ~.
signs, per yard .......................... i'll
l9c Dimity, assorted checks;
sheer quality, per 1n1o
yard :. ................. iZ2U
SOC fancy white VoiIes; check,
stripes and embroidered de- On.
signs; 40 inches wide, yard vJu
25c and 35c fancy White 10o
Goods, per yard .................... IL
36-inch white Gaberdine; worth
40c per yard, in this sale, nf1.
at per yard ................. .ZJU
42-inch white Transparent Or
candies; worth 39c; per Oh
|yard - ......... ....................ZUO
SOC white Organdies, per o.
yard -. . JJU
35c Chiffon Voiles, 40 in d.
ches wide, per yard ...............ZUG
soc imported Voiles in white
and colors, per 9ho
SOC checked Flaxon; SO in 00o
ches wide, per yard .........,....ZJU
|3G-inch Beach Cloth Suitings;
Jail new shades; worth SOC 00c
yard .ZJU
|35c Sport Stripes, tan grounds
with colored stripes; sc in Ok
ches wide, yard -.a............!A ZVg
SOC solid color, imported Voiles;
40 inches wide; all new QEn
shades, per yard .........O Jul
WASH GOODS
zoe fancy Voiles and Batiste, in
stripes and floral designs, 1ho
yard =. ...................... .... IT.
soc colored Organizes, 40 qEo
inches wide, all shades JVG
19c Percale, sc inches wide, 4 In
per yard ....... ........- IvO
liz 1-2c Percales, light grounds
with figured and striped 1G1n
designs, per yard .-,.... IVO
|18c Dress Ginghams, fast colors;
large assortment of pat 101o
terms, per yard .,... IZ2O
SOC striped Suitings; elaborate
sport stripes, &c inches 0hn
wide, yard ...---...-..... ........,,ZVV
32-inch Renfrew Zephyr Gin
hams, large plaids; also neat
and attractive check de- 01n
signs; 25c values, now ..ZlO
35c Galatea Clothes, fast colors
in all new patterns, an ex- 9hn
ira strong dress fabric ZJG
DRESS LINENS
Csc white Irish Linen, 36 hQc
inches wide, yard ....,.....-...... 7vV
$50 Linen Sheeting, 72 I %
inches wide, yard ...... I'Hv
1926 Belgian Linen, As in QQn
ches wide, for fancy work~.,,.VJG
SOC Pongee Linen, all COL 97n
ors, yard .,..,......, ,..--........-..-,.VIO
| Use French Linens, 36 inches;