Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-07-22


spring. there came into the whole
clothes situation glimmer of light
that has broadened into a strong ray
of sunshine.
1t has created optimism in all quar-
tiers. 1t came through war relief &C
tivities That seems an astounding
thing to have happened. but it is an
other phase of the proverb. 1T is an
| i'll wind that blows nobody any good"
| 1t makes an interesting chapter in
| the history of womens apparel during
the great war. Something similar to 1t
| happened in England, not in France,
but the entire thing happened where
! it only could happen. in this ire
mendously prosperous country.
| The beginning Of the war has been
written in chapters Of activity on this
side and fighting on the other side.
Literally. millions of women insisted
! upon doing their bit. The drive Of the
Red Cross. which was nationwide; the
extraordinary grouping together of va
rious units for sane and instant relief.
such as the Militia of Mercy, which pro-
vides money for women whose hubands
| have been called out, and which is one
I Of the best charities on this continent
the hospital work. the arrangement for
providing comfort kits for the navy.
| the league work Of rolling bandaFes,
are merely a few Of the dominant ac-
! tivities which interest women this
summer.
/ And the interesting psychology of
4 this situation is the gladness and in
! terest that war relief work has
/ brought into thousands of homes
/ where women were bored to death
with the dizziness of their lives where
they had never felt the need Of going
out into the world, and where through
| shyness and lack of opport Unity. they
did not have u circle Of friends and
never came in touch with the broad
| movements of the hour.
The city centers are humming with
women on every kind of errand bent
stopping at restaurants for lunch, shop
| Ing in the hottest days for new clothes
to carry them through the appoint
/ ments Of the next month, and the sew
| ing rooms of those who make their
gowns at home are busy preparing the
/ increased number of blouses. skirts
! and underwear that this sudden call to
arms has brought about.
I The government Of the United States
steps in also as a buyer Of huge
amounts. 1t IS ordering clothes for The
enlisted women of the Naval Reserve
/ force. Already il has asked for 6OA
I blue serge suits. smartly made: . 900
/ white cotton drill suits 1000 separate
white skirts, 1000 straw hats and an
other 900 dark blue felt hats
/ The tendency in all the new clothes
IS toward the silhouette adopted by the
I government for its enlisted women
skirts are narrow and of reasona BILE
/ length. hlouSeS are simple with ,.jda
turnover collars of lace or white WASH
I material and Jackets are short and
made on a mannish model depending
on the cut for distinction
Those who do not care for suits are
fitting ont their wardrotes with cotton
frorks. Even at the smartest hotels IN
The heart of great centcrs fashionable
women are appearing in checked gine-
hams with broad straw hats
I This is fashion which has never
been tolerated in the majority of Crea,
American cities. Such clothes have al
ways been KEEP, for suburban towns and
the country, and when a woman found
II necessary TO the street of a
great city during the heat Of the day
she felt that tradition demanded that she
subject herself to the discomfort OF =
suit. She preferred to pass away from
moisture in blue serge coat and skirt
than roam the streets in a checked cot
ton gown and white shoes.
The high cost of living has hit tn.
engagement ring. Solitaircs have gone
/ right out of style. No
Solitaire body's wearing then
now The latest is da-
DecunlHS. mond clusters,
This dictum was sent out YESTERDAY
by the jewelry fashion bureau. says the
New York American. Engagement
rings are to be. smaller and very lacy
in design. They are to be made OF
platinum and will show not less than
three small diamonds. AS many more
as you want to buy are fashionable
/ The new stone of the season is the
aquamarine. 1t is blue and is used ex-
| tcnsively in combination with diamonds
| Jades. opals sapphires and emeralds
are popular ever. Only next season
emeralds are to be three times as OK
| pensive as diamonds. The tendency OF
all jewelry is toward more intricate
and elaborate settings and finer work
manship.