davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-08-19
NORTH CAROLINA NOTES
New Industries Starting Up-Old Ones
Being Enlarged to Meet Increased

Being Enlarged to Meet Increased
Business Demands.
Durham Iumocrnpen nave established
o sawrnill Of $4,000 feet daily capacity
1T Corinth, on the Norfolk Southern
Railway.
Tho Hupp Manufacturing Company.
with capital of 100000, has been in
eorporated with headquarters at Ashe-
VILE This company owns vast timbe,
LANDS In Western North Carolina. and
will establish numerous sawmills and
other Woodworking plants.
."Thee town OF Tryon has issued bonds
to. build water works. and will start
tho good work before the summer is
oyer.
Tho town Of Southport has let tho
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-08-19

the president OF the company. and G.
e. Vaughan. of Lynchburg. is the sec
rotary treasurer.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1917-08-19
Blue Ridge Springs

WHY not drink freely of the Celebrated
Blue Ridge Springs Dyspepsia Water while
forts and excellent table First-ciass ser
vice In every detail. Write for descriptive
booklet.
z. ELLISON, Manager
Blue Ridge Springs Va
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

same arguing, even more strongly put.
was advanced against the sheath skirt,
| and so contemptuous was the American
attitude toward this garment that
| Poiret launched. that women who wore
| it were openly laughed at on the streets
and Knocked by rude men.
And yet. we all know the result. The
hobble skirt. as it was called, became
| a commonplace of women's wardrobes.
| The full skirt was not only accepted,
/ the end of the eighteenth century. De-
signers who did not fall in line with
| the quick acceptance of the new styles
| found themselves out of patrons in a
| few weeks.
| With these experiences in the immedi-
| ate past there is good reason to believe
! that the new Silhouette has every
I chance of being rapidly taken up by
the American women and a farewell
| said to the straight. tunic effects Dor
rowed from the twelfth and fourteenth
centuries.
! Looking at the barrel skirt from this
| light. it's Importance can be readily
estimated. 1t is the first garment to
indicate an abrupt change in cur out
line, and 1t is on the changing of out
line that all fashion is nodded. Nothing
else really counts to the manufacturers
the importers or to that intricate net
work of industry that spends millions
of dollars and employs millions of peo-
pie.
This month sees all the openings of
the new spring styles in Paris, but we
do not get them for a month. In the
meantime, the forecasting of what we
may see and what we may accept is GO
ing on by cable and letter. The feeling
fashions was launched in Paris be-
tween Christmas and February that the
thunder has been stolen from the regu-
lar openings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

fshes, cucumbers, and even a couple of
rows of early dwarf sweet corn.
By making every foot of the ground
work all the time. results may be OBJ
tanned from plot of such size that will
astound one who has never tried vest
pocket gardening. Fertilizer will cost
not to exceed 81 for such plot. and
for another dollar or less all the seed
can be bought that can be utilized. A
spade, rake and hoe are all the tools
purchase Of these will involve the ex-
penditure of another do lar; so that
the total expense for gardening a back
yard Of approximately the size men,
toned will not be more than IS in
cash.
A rotation that may be suggested for
such a plot would be early lettuce and
radishes planted as soon as the frost
is out of the ground. When danger
from killing frost Is past the earliest
dwarf peas may be sown in thick
rows. with. perhaps, couple of rows
OF dwarf sugar corn. Two weeks later
SOW the earliest string beans, and a
week later the dwarf limas. Get the
tomato plants started early enough &c
have them six or eight inches high by
the first of May. when they should be
set out. spacing them two feet apart.
Half dozen good, sturdy plants
started In pots in a sunny window in
doors. will supply all the tomatoes ar
average family will require.
As soon as the early radishes and
lettuce are out of the way spade W
the space they occupied and replan,
with beans OF peas. and follow this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
FARM, GARDEN AND HOME.

The high cost of living has struck the
farmer and gardener in two vital spots.
Fertilizers of all kinds are higher in
price this year than they were a year
ago, and even then users of these
products complained at the price ad-
vances. The latest effects of the war
so stated-however. are the largely
advanced prices Of seeds of all kinds.
The 1917 catalogues of one of the
best-known seed houses in the country
cached addresses a week or SO ago
with pink sheet inclosed noting
Ranges from the prices published in
The body of the book. and in every
case the change was in the nature Of
an advance. An explanatory note stated
hat the advances occurred after the
catalogue had been printed, and that
the firm was compelled to make the
changes noted on the pink sheet. Other
seedsmen advanced their prices before
heir catalogues went to press. Nurs-
rymen and dealers in nursery stock
IF all kinds have also advanced prices,
EXPLAINING that the high cost of labor
nd of everything entering into the
production and marketing of their
GODS forced the advance.
But even taking all this into consider
alton the man who has q little ground
on which he can grow string beans,
peas. sugar corn, lettuce, radishes and
other vegetables used by the family
will find he can save money and at the
same time have better vegetables by
, oducing them himself than If he
bought them all at the market or from
the huckster. A few days ago McCo,-
mick potatoes sold in the wholesale
markets of this city for Sc barrel,
the barrels containing two and a hel
bushels each. Three years ago pc
toes OF the same kind brought no.
more than So a barrel, and producer
thought they were getting a good pric
at that. Canned tomatoes, con, pea
beans-the entire line OF canned vege
tables-have advanced In Price. the az
yances ranging from 10 to rs or 80 pc
cent. Even the kind of baked bean
sold in cans have increased. while or
binary navy beans, that used to sci
to IS cents a quart, cannot now
be bought for less than rs cents %
cents a quart for them.
In view of these sharp and marked
advances in the cost of all canned ano
d v vegetables it is safe to assume that
summer will show similar advance.
This being the case, the increased cos
of seeds and fertilizers will nor De
nearly enough to wipe out the mar
gin of protein better quality, ampie
supply, etc.-to be realized by CROWN
the vegetables used by the fanny ana
in selling SURPRISES to less fortunate
neighbors, or canning these extra sup
plies for winter use.
On a plot of ground fifteen by thirty
feet, say. enough fresh green vege-
tables can be grown to supply the
needs of the average family OF Tour CT
FIVE persons. This does not mean ira
grown on such a plot because It can't;
Such a crop requi es much more room.
ut on a lot of this size one can grow
all the string beans. lima neansIh
tuce. peas-a dwarf kind such as Blue
Bantam-tomatoes. few plants OF the
whole salad or Dwarf Giant kino; rad
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

that there is no today, but all tomor-
row; they hypnotic you into believing
that 1t is spring, when y have just
begun to enjoy winter. and when you
at last realize that it is June they con-
vince you that it is somber autumn.
This theory is distinctly applicable
to the manner in which muslins flood
the country at a time when people are
spending their savings on new fur
coats. 1t is good to know, however.
whatswe may expect in the spring, and
there is no doubt that muslins. sprigged.
checked, striped and paisley-ed, will
be in the forefront of new offerings.
The pear-shaped design which runs
through the cashmere shawls, and
their imitation. the paisley shawls, is
a new and brilliant design on the most
expensive of the new muslins; the Per-
sian tree of life is another design
copied from the embroidery of the
orient. This latter design first appeared
last September, when Bulloz used it as
splendid splash of embroidery on a
gray satin gown made for Mary Garden
to wear when she sang the title role Of
Griselidis The embroidery was done in
colored crystals, silk floss and bullion
threads and occupied the lower half Of
the front Of the skirt. rising from a
groundwork of crystal embroidery.
When the Indian shawls came into
high fashion last September, as parts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
STRIKING new GOWNS
FROM PARIS.

THE smartest Of the French frocks
u continue to be buttoned down the
back. Callot sends a new one OF blue
silk and gabardine. with its bodice en-
broidered in red at the sides. the round
blue buttons In a straight line down
the back. It has an old-fashioned CAMP
Of white lingerie.
Lanvin brings back into fashion the
wall OF Troy or batltement edging. She
puts a broad piece Of battlement en-
broidery in gold and silver across the
bodice front OF a blue crepe gown. The
edge Of the deep sash and the hem of
the skirt are finished with gold and
silver bead fringe.
Lanvin also sends over a remarkable
Of cloth of gold, which is cut OIL IN &
large design In front in the manner of
the renaissance. 1t ts crusted With
fifteenth-century embroidery done In col
ored crystals. The skirt Is Of blue satin
that hangs in folds on the floor.
Cabot, Lanvin. Cheruit and many Of the
other designers are putting vivid Innings
into the coats Of their sport suits. The
checkerboard design Is In such high fash
ion for outing clothes that 1t naturally
makes its appearance as Jacket lining.
White leather Jackets continue to come
over from France, for sport wear. Both
Cabot and Chanel are featuring this gar
ment. Another trick that Is significant
on the French skirts is the introduction
of the cun hem. This Is sometimes made
Of kid on a cloth or jersey skirt; agairit
Is q checkerboard design in vivid colors.
| Cheruit sends over a gown of rose-col-
,f1t t. v-Sv - 1<,<So
! pendant loops made Of small rose-colored
crystals. An important feature Is that the
decolletage Is round in front. instead OF
square or v shaped. Another Cheruit
gown Of silver tissue with silver embroid-
cry has the same decolletage.
Among the new sport coats introduced
on the French stage and brought over
here is one Of silk jersey in the new poppy
red which has rolling collar and pockets
of navy blue. These are touched up with
green and silver embroidery.
Separate skirts have come back into
fashion, after years Of neglect. There's
reason. The universal topcoat. the short
chemise tunic and the outside blouse have
contributed to the Introduction Of the
separate skirt for all hours, Of the day.
It is no longer considered necessary to
have the two sandwich panels that form
a medieval gown match the underslip
over which they are placed. For instance,
a pale gray underslip with long. vrinkled
sleeves to the wrist will have two kings
blue satin panels dropped over II In front
and back. or gray satin panels embroid-
cred at the edges in an Indian design done
in silver threads will be dropped over 4:
Ipleated underslip with long sleeves OF
Ihydrangea blue chiffon. The gray panels
will be weighted with chinchilla fur at
each hem.
There is an effort on the part of mil
liners to bring out sport hats which have
animals, cut out Of velvet. pasted on the
brim. One has black cat, another has a
, yellow goose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

of gowns. they were accepted only by
a few conservatives. The Introduction
was dismal failure. although 1t had
been attended by high hopes and much
enthusiasm. The people who intro
duced the idea, both dressmakers and
milliners. stood in the forefront of
originality. For instance. Jenny of the
Champs Elysees gave herself whole
heartedly to employing the Indian
shawl in various ways for day apparel;
and yet. she who has had SO few fall
ures in Der short. brilliant career. did
not put 1t over.
X
Women who owned these shawls
rushed to the shops and dressmakers
with them and were perplexed because
they could not sell them. The truth Is
the market was overstocked; genuine
cashmere shawls were too expensive to
cut up into an experiment. but the shops
and dressmakers over here found that
they could import paisley shawls and
all manner Of Indian shawls from Great
Britain, giving as little as IS for some
of them.
So the idea in itself failed. but its sug-
gestiveness to fabric makers is now
bearing fruit. Rodier instantly put the
pear. the palm leaf and the Persian tree
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

system of successive crops throughout
the summer. The last planting OF peas
or string beans may be made as late
as the middle Of August, with as
Fifty pounds Of good commercial
-ertilizer will be ample for plot OF the
size indicated. A single load Of wei
rotted natural fertilizer will be better.
widely advertised brand Of commercial
humus is used. with a commercial
fertilizer, results will be still better
and the effect will be lasting. at least
for as long as four or five years. On
such a garden plot the problem Of sup
plying moisture is solved. as city
water can be used whenever the rain
fall is insufficient. All in all, the ram
lily that, in the face Of increased living
cost, does not plan to utilize every
available foot of ground for growing
something for the table is certainly
standing in it's own light.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

score. 1t is not the intention of either
Paris or the American sellers of ap
parel that women should be able to
alter their old gowns into something
new; France needs all the money she
can get; America has more money to
spend than any other country on this
planet. And there you are The fabric
people are interested in launching old
fashioned muslins on a very modern
public. The shop windows have been
full of these fancy materials since the
first day that the thermometer went to
zero. Windows filled with the peltries
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

fly is then eaten by the chicks. who are
always after bugs and other insects.
The tapeworm larvae natures. ard new
worms attach themselves to the wall
1t is a good ,lan to open the intes-
tines of birds killed for table use. and
If the flock is found to harbor any
worms the birds should he treated.
Oil of wormseed given in doses of one
teaspoonful to each dozen birds ce a
week will go a long way to ard rid
ding the flock of this trouble. Mix this
fluid in mash made Of heat middlings
or wheat midd'ings and cornmeal. and
feed it in such a manner that all birds
will get their share. Follow this with
epson salt, giving one tablespoonful to
every 81: fowls Dissolve the salt in
water. and use this --ater to mix the
dry feed as above indicated.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

business of clothes think that the in
PRODUCTION of the new line from head to
heels, which will cause complicated
cutting, is quite enough.
There are very few cutters, no mat
ter how we'll paid, who regard the ad-
vent of this silhouette with anything
like pleasure. The only form of it that
does not distress them is the one which
owes its shaping to drapery and not to
cores.
The method of draping employed on
the new barrel skirts is not graceful
nor very effective, but it is an insinu-
ating compromise between the skirt we
have had and the skirt we will have.
When even an expert cutter tries to get
the melon silhouette by shaping Of
numberless cores that draw the skirt
in at the waist and hem and out at the
knees, there is trouble, and plenty of
it, ahead.
Nearly decade ago there was kind
of barrel skirt which grew too success
full for the fastidious woman to con-
tinue to wear. 1t Is possible that you
remem Der this; the top of it was shaped
like Dutch trousers and the fullness
was gathered into a wide hem that
Rugged the ankles. The upper part was
usually of a figured material, like
foulard, and the lower part was Of
satin, usually black.
1t is quite possible that this very type
of skirt will return after the first
models have had their little fling. The
man lAiHS lhdt lIlS iSfu OIL the SklrI
will be narrow this spring and summer.
no matter what the upper part may
turn out to be.
None of the cables from Paris leaves
one in doubt about this forecast. They
say that every house has gone in for
slender lines below the knees and the
elimination of all flare at the hem This
presupposes an entirely new silhouette
from the one that has prevailed for
nearly three years. The woman who
must be economical is instantly per-
turbed as to whether she can alter the
frocks she has into the picture de-
manded by the near future. but no one
offers her much encouragement on that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

Of wild animals surrounding a redhot
stove would have been more agreeable
to look upon, but the only use that the
merchants have for calendar is to
months ahead.
There is no race of people who con-
tribute to the feeling that life is short
as do the merchants. They live entirely
in the future and compel you to do the
same. They impress upon you the fact
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
POULTRY YARD NOTES.

terminal end Of the worm. another
develops from the neck. and, as the
distance from the neck grows greater,
the segments are more complet ly filed
with mature eggs. Meanwhile these
segments are Also bling nutrients from
the intestinal tract of the host
1t has been fonnd that one kind Of
apeworm has for its intermediate host
the common house fly. The fly eats the
eggs of the worm. In this fly the eggs
hatch and pass through one stage of
their development into a tiny cyst The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

There are many who say that the bar
rel skirt, or the new silhouette, will not
20 in this country; that it failed a year
ago when Callot and Paquin introduced
1t. and that women ARE satisfied with
the straight lines of the medieval and
see no reason to change.
There is little common sense behind
this argument. il one judges the future
by the past. which is the only trumpet,
drawing attention to way to look at
history in any phase of its making.
Exactly the same argument was made
against the full skirt, which came in at
the precise hour of the great war. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
, Plan to Change Silhouette for Spring

into his new materials for spring and
summer. and. therefore, we shall wear
muslins that show these designs.
Another forecast for spring is that
we shall be bordered as though we
were a state on the map. Most Of the
new materials have ornate borders. and
when the weaver has left them OF the
dressmaker supplies them. In these deep
edges will lie most of the artistry of
and chiffon will be framed In with
bands Of brilliant colors, to keep In the
picture Of the hour.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

No one at the present moment ex-
poets anything more revolutionary than
the barrel skirt, or what we may call
the melon silhouette. There may be
some surprise in store for the COM
mercialists that has not yet developed,
but those who are interested in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
BY ANNE R1TTENHoUsE.

E0HE advent of the barrel skirt
into the fashions came as such
III an amazing movement, prac-
q tically unheralded. that 1t has
caused quite an upheaval in the world
that makes clothes for quick selling.
So little is settled concerning this sill
houette that even the most expert
manufacturers of readytowear cos
tumery are a trifle in doubt as to
whether or not their venture into the
barrel silhouette will help them. The
individual who buys new costume as
an experiment in fashion, not feeling
sure whether it will give her enough
service for the money she has invested,
is perturbed over the experiment She
has right to be. for every level-headed
woman feels herself lacking in the es-
sential qualities of judgment when she
puts good money into the wrong thing.
But her perturbation is only ripple
compared to the storm of doubt that as
sails the importer or the manufacturer
who puts thousands of dollars into
new line or a new fabric. He may be
swamped before the first month of the
season is over. while the individual can
go on wearing the costume or alter 1t
to serve a more sedate phase of fashion.
X
When a new silhouette is launched at
a regulation French opening the i'm
porters and the apparel people in this
country take up the new thing with a
stout heart. for they have great ma
tion behind them and they know that
there is always safety in numbers. If
all the designers in Paris unite on a
silhouette and all the importers in this
country subscribe to 1t. there is left
small doubt of its ultimate acceptance
and there is a good chance for its sue
cess.
1t is when a new fashion appears over
the horizon like sailing ship. and
seems to be coming directly into the
harbor of success. that the designer.
the importer and the manufacturer are
in doubt as to which way to work. If
women like this new fashion it will be
carried to instant success. If they do
not like it it will be doomed to failure
in a fortnight: the money must, there
fore. be risked and the idea must be put
out with emphasis: yet the verdict re-
mains with the public.
This is the situation at the present
moment regarding the new silhouette
which goes under the common name of
the barrel skirt. The latter garment is
merely the form in which the new out
line was launched. but this skirt was
actually a feeler toward an entire
somersault in fashion. 1t was for this
reason that the manufacturers were
working in doubt and that the i'm
porters were loudly blowing their i'm
portation of this skirt, because there
was the feeling in every heart that a
definite change was to come quickly
and that no one must be caught nap
ping.
x X
There are many who saw that the bar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04
VALLEY OF VIRGINIA.

WINCHESTER. Va. February g.
he Northern Virginia Power Company
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

Mnrtinsburg. w. va-The rushing
waters OF Big Brush greek, which sepa
rated Miss Minnie Bennett and George
Vance of Bluefield. armed with a mar
rage license. from the minister, Rev.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

Cumberland. Md.-The Welfare League
of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad has
appropriated $4,000 toward club
house in this city for employees here
The two-story brick residence fronting
on Williams street, long occupied by
the late superintendent. Lee French's
father, will be remodeled for this pur-
pose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

williamsburg. WA A. Harris
thirty-six years old, merchant of Har.
ris Grove, died a few days ago after the
extraction of several teeth. He suffered
great loss of blood before he was taken
to Newport News Hospital, where the
bleeding was checked, but he became
seriously ill shortly after he returned
home.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

Richmond. Va -Stockholders of the
Virginia State Fair Association, at their
annual meeting here, went on record
to the effect that the organization Is
not money-making. profit-sharing
corporation, but rather an institution
which looks toward the betterment of
state conditions generally and agri-
culture specifically.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-02-04

Salisbury, Md.-Jackson, Gutman &
Lane shirt factory on the outskirts of
Salisbury was destroyed by fire, in
volving loss of $4,000 and throw
Ing out of employment between 500 and
500 persons. The fire started in the
ironing room of the factory and the
building burned so rapidly that 1t was
impossible for the fire department to
have it