davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

over at the extreme right is made OF
navy blue serge with trimming Of
broadoloth in real leather color. IL
makes a very smart combination and
a very attractive suit, and it shows
lust the newest features in the straps,
the flap pockets and the collar with
square fronts. Serge is one Of the best
liked materials and one Of the most
durable, but any light weight material
can be used, and a great many mothers
will, perhaps, find the mixtures more
serviceable than the plain colors, or
one Of the little checked woods that
are shown in such pretty colors. II is
a season Of very great variety and OPP
portunity for the children as well as
for the grown-ups, for, while the
models are absolutely simple, there
is great variety to be found in trim-
ming and in treatment. We are
having a real abundance in the matter
Of materials in spite Of the difficulties
that have to be overcome. Little girls
will be oharmingly dressed and mothers
will find the problem of selection really
a simple one for there is not fashion
able garment that cannot be made at
home without difficulty and it is prob
able that home sewing will go long
way toward the problem Of the con
servation and economy that is beset-
ting the world at large.
For the younger school boy there is
no better costume than the one with
the MILDLY blouse and straight trousers
For the early season he will wear it
made Of galatca and Of linen and of
washable materials Of such sort, and
later it will be good for serge and for
wooden fabrics, and some mothers will
like TO make, the trousers Of serge and
the blouse Of white linen or Of white
ealatea trimmed with blue
There are two styles Of ovcrcoat'
shown in the illustration and they ar
both good. The simple, plain Ions
coat is always worn, il is always fash
ionable and it is always scrviceablc
but there is a peculiar smartncss abou
the Mackinaw model that,is sure e
make an appeal 10 the boys them
selves. 1t is especially adapted e
school wear and it leaves the weare
perfectly free for the activities tina
make such an important part Of tn
bows life.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

will find the diagram an excellent
guide. 1t shows just how the pieces
must be placed and only little shift
ing will be required to accommodate
another width. II you want shorter
sleeves or If you want a round collar,
you will. OF course, cut the pattern
of before you place it on the material.
The seam allowance is three-eighths OF
an inch. On the collar and the pockets
YOU will want a hem and hens are
not allowed. therefore, cut three
quarters of an inch beyond the edge
Of the tissue. but where only seams
are needed. cut on the edge OF the
tissue. Measure the length Of the
skirt and ascertain the length needed.
Girls vary in size. The pattern may be
long enough to allow three-inch hem.
If it is not allow as much as needed.
Pin into place carefully, then mark
the basting line which is the one OF
tiny circles near each edge, and mark
the notchcs, and all the sewing indica-
tions. then cut around the outer edges
Of the tissue The basting line is the
ono YOU must preserve for on that you
must haste and sew and that is the
line which means the shapliness and
smartnoss Of the garment. Make
your markings with colorcd orayon
that shows we'll upon your material.
then pass pins through 10 the under
side and mark that. DO not cut the
notches, mark them also, for cutting
is apt to destroy the seam.
As the first step, pin the shoulder
edges of the blouse together, and
whether you will take the first scam
on the right or wrong side will depend
upon the material. II you arc making
Of gingham or other washable material.
pin the fronts and backs together with
the wrong sides together, then take
up very narrow seam on the right
side, turn again and take up a second
scam ON the wrong side, the second
time stitching on the pcriorations that
indicate the blsting line. II you are
making OF serge or other wool ma
terial, pin the fronts and the back:
with the right sides together, bringing
the seams on the WRONG side ard ses
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

THERE is no more important
question to be discussed with
the opening Of the season than
that Of suitable school clothing. No
matter how great the national crisis,
the childrens education must go on
and we must, so far as possible, protect
them from too deep a share in the
struggles that beset the worldat large.
They must have their happy school
DAYS and they must have their APP
propriate clothing, for no child is ever
really happy unless he or she is APP
propriately dressed.
For the Autumn, the girls will wear
great many Bingham frocks and
linen frooks and irocks Of various cot
ton materials such as gabardine,
cheviot, poplin, crepe and the like.
They are serviceable, they arc always
becoming, they are simple as chill
drens clothes always should be, and
they are hygienic because they can be
sent to the tub periodically TO be made
new again. and mothers feel that they
ill every demand. Later, serge and
eabardine and the light weight woods
Of such sort will, Of course, be worn,
and for the street there will be serge
suits and gabardine suits for the carly
season.
For the Winter school coat there is
no better material to be suggested
than the new mixed cloths that are
made with cravanctte finish. They
are not injured by being caught in the
rain. they arc protective and they are
exceedingly handsome. Narrow bands
for fur trimming make a good finish
and in the illustration there is anad
nirable suggestion 20 be found.
Both the one-piece dresses and the
dresses that are made with blouse and
skirt joined by means Of the belt &C
become one-piece garments are ~
demand and the new models are eN
reedineIy attractive, The little froob
that is shown away over at the lett Of
the picture beside the Winter coat Is
made from one Of the new gingham'
with trimming Of pain colored linen
II is just as pretty and childlIkc as
can be and it is 50 simple that the
buriest mother will find no difficulty
in making H. II you prefer. you can
make the sleeves long.
- rat suit that is shown awaN
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

THIS is a season that will make
a call upon a great many mothers
fog the making Of school irocks
within the home. As though it might
have been foreseen that such would
be the case, designs are extremely
simple, and there is nothing difficult
TO be found in the fashionable frock
Of today. This one makes good
example. You can make it with the
applied straps over the blouse portion
or you can make it without them and
in either way it will be an attractive
dress. You can make it Of serge or
of shepherds check or Of material Of
such sort, or you can make it OF
ginghen or Of chambray or Of poplin
or Of linen, and it will be correct
whichever you choose.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15
A Smart School FrOCk and How 1t Can Be Made

turn the seam allowance on the right
edge under.
To make the skirt, first sew the
seams with the corresponding notches
exactly meeting, as indicated by the
numbers in the diagram. Pin with the
right sides together and take up q
single scam on the wrong side, sewing
on the circles If there are sclvage
edges. no finish will be required. II
there arc cut edges, whip the two
edges Of the seams together TO prevent
iraying. Stitch the back seams and
the right Side Of the front for full
length, but stitch the left Of the
front below the notohes only. Bind
the edges Of the opening with scam
binding for wool. with the material
for washable fabric.
Fold the skirt on the lines Of smaller
circles and lap to the larger circles
to form the box plaits at each side Of
the front ans Of the back and side
plaits between and haste. Arrange
the laps over the skirt with the
notches meeting as indicated by the
numbers, then join the skirt to the
lower edge OF the belt. Cut a lining
exactly the same as the belt. turn the
scam under on all the edges and ar.
range over the underside
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

To make this frock. first smooth out
all the pieces OF tho pattern carefully.
II you have decided TO make the plain
dress without the straps and pocket
laps, lay them aside. Place the diff
fercnt parts on the material as sug-
gested in the Diagram that accom-
panies the pattern. There, the
material is forty-four inches in width
If your material is wider or
narrower YOU will have TO shift them
slightly. and If you are going to trim
with a contrasting .material you must
arrange those trimming portions sepa-
ratelv huf whatever Won choose YOU
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

once on the line Of circles. then bind
each scam edge separately with very
thin scam binding, and press open.
Turn the outer edges Of the collar
undcr-thrce- eighths OF an inch then
turn 4 second time on the circles.
Since YOU allowed thrcc-quarters OF
an inch that turning will give you a
hem Of that width, and by turning
on the circles you will be sure to keep
a perfectly correct outline. Hem by
hand with invisible stitches or stitch
by machine, using two or three rows
as YOU like. Press the hemTed edges
and arrange the collar over the blouse
with the center hacks and notches
together as indicated by tie numbers
(2-2) in the diagram. If you are
using washable material, cut a bias
strip Of the material three-quarters
of an inch vide. II you are using wool
material cut a strip Of thin lining silk
three quarters Of an inch wide, and
undertake. Turn the front edges of the
blouse under on the circles indicating
the seam and again on the inner line OF
circles. then arrange over the center
front, folded edges at circles and the
notchcs meeting. Basic carefully and
stitch the right sides into place. Sew
snap fasteners to the left side for the
closing.
As the next step, haste the sleeves
TO the arm-hole edges with the notclies
exactly meeting and the single circles
at the shoulder seams, holding the
fullness in the sleeves evenly. You
will find that the sleeves arc larger
than the arm-holesj but that is done
purposely to allow a spring over the
shoulders. If you cannot hold it in
nicely. run a gathering string around
the upper part Of the sleeve and draw
up to fit the arm-hOle and haste,
holding the sleeves. taking the scam
always on the wrong side. and sewing
on the circles. II you are using wash
able material, stitch a second time
near to the edges. then trim OF the
seam and whip closely. II you arc
using serge, either whip the seams
closely or bind the two edges together
with verv thin silk binding. Basts
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1917-09-15

o313 Child,s Dress, o months or year.
? and 4 years. Price 10 cents
o3I2 Girls Dress, 10 70 "a years.
Price IS cents.
o34o Girls Dress, 8 to IL years.
Price Is cents.
o42o Girls Barrel Coat, s to ~ years.
Price IS cents.
osI6 Girls Coat, S to Il years.
Price IS cents.
o7S3 Girls Plated Dress, to II years.
Price IS cents.
1854 Girls Dress, S to II years
Price IS cents.
$3.50 Boys Mackinaw Coat, 8 to II
years. Price TO cents.
o479 Girls Barrel Coat, s to Is years.
Price Is cents.
o749 Boys Double Breasted Overco5t.
Sto Il years. Price 10 cents.
$3.50 Boys MILDLY Suit. ? to o years
Price 10 cents.
o4I3 Girls Coat suit, 10 to II years
Price IS cents.
o4oo Girls Dress, s to - years
Price Is cents.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Meteors From the Moon.

Taking up an old theory of meteors,
Emile Belot, French astronomer, has
attempted to demonstrate that these
bodies may have resulted from vol
canic eruptions on the moon and other
satellites of the solar systems planets.
He finds that an initial velocity of
projection comparable to that which
has been observed in the eruption of
Cotopaxi and only twice as great as
that developed in artillery of the pres
ent war would be sufficient to carry
a body free from the moon and he has
made calculations of the speed of pro-
lection and other conditions that would
cause such body to become satellite
of the moon, of the earth, or of the
sun.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
First Aid TO Marriage.

Of what use is q diamond, anyway? ?
Conservationists who are for cutting
out all extravaganza during the war
are asking the question, says the Kan
sas City Star.
The answer, based upon statistics
furnished by jewelers., seems to be
that the diamond is most valuable
as an aid to marriage. 1t is said
that the trade in diamonds goes up or
down in ratio with increasing or de-
creasing numbers Of marriages. This
Is because the diamond is used so
much as the setting in engagement
rings.
Last year the United States i'm
ported $34,000000 worth of dia-
monds, an increase of 20 per cent
over 1915 and 40 per cent over 1914.
Looking into this startling growth
of the diamond trade it was diScov-
cred that, according to leading i'm
porters, 'every girl expects real dia-
mond in pledge of plighted troth these
days, and the growth of that custom,
coupled with good times and an in
crease in the number of marriages, ac-
counts for it,
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
WOMEN SUFFERERS
NEED SWAMP-ROOT

Thousands upon thousands of women
have kidney and bladder trouble and
never suspect it.
Women's complaints often prove to be
nothing else but kidney trouble, or the
result of kidney or bladder disease.
If the kidneys are not in a healthy con-
dition, they may cause the other organs
to become diseased.
You may suffer a great deal with pain
in the back, headache, loss of ambition,
irritable.
Don't delay starting treatment. DR..
Kilmer's Swamp-Root, a physicians pre-.
scription, obtained at any drug store, re.
stores health to the kidneys and is just
the remedy needed to overcome such con-
ditions.
Get medium or large bottle immedi-
ately from any drug store.
However, if you wish first to test this
great preparation. send ten cents to DR..
Kilmer & Co., Binghamton, N. Y, for a
sample bottle. When writing be sure
and mention this paper. Adv.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
ONE-TIME PIRATES
Esthonian 0utrages EnkindIed
Wrath of Danish Kings.
Records Show They Were Regarded
as Daring, Predatory People
of the Baltic.

The Esthonians, who constitute four.
fifths of the population of the Russian
Baltic province of Esthonia, which lies
between Riga and Petrograd, are the
subject of bulletin issued by the Ma
tional Geographic society from its
Washington headquarters:
Like the Films, to whom they are
closely related, the Esthonians or
Esths, a race numbering 100000 peo-
pie, more than 100000 of whom reside
in Esthonia, retain many character
istics which bespeak their Mongolian
origin. They are long-armed and short
legged, have broad face and low brows,
are usually beardless and have oblique
eyes.
"The first. record of the Esths in
Europe reveals them as daring, pred
atory people of the Baltic whose
piratic outrages enkindled the wrath
of Danish kings as early as the twelfth
century. In 1894 and 1196 Canute VI
sent strong expedition against them
and forced number of the lawless
bands to accept Christianity and allow
themselves to be baptized. Hardly
had the warlike proselyters left the
Esthonian shores, however, than the
inhabitants reverted to barbarism and
their heather practices. A quarter Of
century later Waldemar II was more
successful. He subjugated the north
ern portion of the land and brought
the inhabitants under submission to
the Danish crown. 1t was never a
willing submission, however, and for
more than 100 years the Inhabitants
gave their conquerors endless trouble
until 1343 Waldemar w decided that
they were not worth the bother so
he sold his interest in the rebels and
Sword, who were gradually spreading
their net of power northward from
Teutonic lands.
''For more than 500 years thereafter
the lot of the EsthOnians was virtual
ly that of serfdom under their Ger
man landowners.
"In the sixteenth century both the
mobiles and the fortified towns of Esth-
onia placed themselves under the pro-
lection of the Swedish crown, but they
were forced to acknowledge a new
master after Peter the Greats success
full wars against Charles XII.
"For the last thirty years the Rus
sian imperial government has been
making systematic efforts to abolish
the Esthonian language, to which the
people have clung tenaciously. Harsh
regulations as to the use of the Ian
guage in the schools have not served
to wean the people from their Ian
guage, however. One characteristic
which has served to preserve the Esth
language through the centuries has
been the peoples love for poetry, and
they have rare natural gift for versi-
6cation.
"The Orthodox Greek church of Rus
sia also has conducted an active pro-
gram in Esthonia, but according to the
latest religious census 96 per cent of
the inhabitants are still Lutherans."
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
They Just Had to Wait.

Something was the matter with the
stop-signal bell of the Toonerville troll
ley car, and the conductor had to
whistle to the motorman, that trip
one whistle to start, two whistles to
go ahead.
This wasn't the real Toonerville
trolley, but certain suburban dummy
line" which is SO denominated by the
facetious car riders.
At one place, the other morning, the
car made long stop, and some of the
passengers began to get uneasy. One
sought the rear platform and found
the conductor eating frugal lunch
con.
Say, how long we goin' to stand
here? What are we waitin' fOr?"
asked the passenger.
The conductor swallowed hard and
was understood to reply.
'.Looky here, amt got nothin' but
dry crackers fer my lunch. An you'll
halter wait till git 'em all swallered
good before l kin whixtle !"-Cleve-
land Plain-Dealer.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Suggests a Hilarious Finish.

Most hilarious and mirthful would
be the ending of the war under the
scheme of Henniker IN. H. humani-
tartan. He would have all the Ger
mans, the kaiser included, laugh them
selves to death, says the Boston Jour
nal.
Briefly, the scheme is to spill new
kind of laughing gas, which the writer
says he has invented. all over the Ger
man forces. The gas, according to the
plasi. can be carried over the German
trenches in airplanes and dropped.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
FOR SKIN TROUBLES
That heh, Burn, Torture and Disfia
ure Use Cuticura-TriaI Free.

The Soap to cleanse and purify, the
Ointment to soothe and heal. They
usually afford immediate relief in itch
ing, burning eczemas, pimples, dandruff
and most baby skin troubles. They
also tend to prevent little skin trou-
bles becoming great If used daily.
Free sample each by mail with Book.
Address postcard, Cuticura, Dept. L,
Boston. Sold everywhere.-Adv.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Rain.
KAN.
Little drops of water,
Failing with a thud,
Take the blowing landscape,
And turn it into mud.
Kitchen Economy.

did you tell the new cook she must
economize?"
"I've gently intimated it," replied
Mr.. Crosslots. IF 1 say too much
about it. she may leave. Then I'll
have to pay another cooks transpor-
tation and maybe she won't economize
either. tell you this kitchen econ
omy is a more delicate proposition
than a great many people think"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Preliminary.

"Why this hush, this elaborate tip
toeing about?"
SSH! Mother is getting ready to
ask father for a little extra money
for that new gown"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Our American Dublin.

Browne-That was q nice compli-
ment General Washington paid the
Irish March II, 1776, when he turned
Boston over to General Sullivan and
the Irish in honor of the day.
Smythe-Yes, and they never gave it
up.-Judge.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Between MANAGERS,

"What makes you think the new
soprano won't do? At first you said
her voice was good"
II know did but none of the other
sopranos seem to be jealous of her."
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
At Times,

"That audience cheered my remarks
repeatedly"
Eyes, 1 never saw an audience that
would rather hear itself holler than
listen to somebody talk"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
HOW's This +?

We offer $4,000 for any case of catarrh
that cannot be cured by HALLS
CATARRH MEDICINE.
HALLS CATARRH MEDICINE is TAX
en- internally and acts through the Blood
on the Mucous Surfaces of the System.
Sold by druggists for over forty years.
Price 75c. Testimonials free.
F. J. Cheney & Co.. Toledo, Ohio.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
RrInht Idea.

"The circus elephant got loose in the
station and started foraging."
what did they do?'
"Just sent for the baggage master.
and he checked the elephants trunk" I"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
un.to.pate Weddlnn Gifts,

"Well, what sort of wedding pres
ents did you get, girlie-the usual as
sortment of berry spoons and pickle
forks?"
Not on your esteemed life. I got
a sack of potatoes, four dozen fresh
eggs, peck of onions, and a Liberty
bond."
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Popular Lad.

"Yaas, I've stopped smoking"
"Swore off to please some girl, no
doubt. I wouldn't stop smoking to
please a girl"
II did it to please five girls"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Learn Every Day.

Life is educational. He is indeed a
dullard who doesn't learn something
every day and become wiser in his
methods of doing.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
An Exhibition.

'Have you seen Susie's engagement
ring?"
'Of course! Did you have an idea
that she was making an effort to hide
it?"
The midland journal., 1917-10-26

Sore Eyes. Blood Shot Eyes watery Eyes;
Sticky Eyes. all healed promptly with night
ly applications of Roman Eye Balsam Adv.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Unable to Read.

A large number of Turkish womer
are unable to read or write their owr
difficult language.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26

It's all right to save your money for
a rainy day, but this is Uncle Sans
rainy day.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Gompers Opposes Plan.

President Gompers of the American
Federation of Labor is opposed to
women being used in war work.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Naturally Not.

"Will that pitcher never run down ?''
mot with that windup."
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Now Rides in an Auto

Mrs. Russell Sage, who is now past
lightweight years of age, only recently
consented to ride in an automobile.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26
Just Like a Man,

Men admire clever women, but mar
ry the foolish ones-if they are pretty.
The midland journal., 1917-10-26

Prudery is better than shameless.
Semi-weekly herald., 1917-05-03
n ~ ~ -
TO INCREASE OUTPUT OF
LlHGTNER CREEK MINES

In order to improve traffic condi-
tions, the owners Of the o. X, Sun.
shine and Clarke mines on Lightner
creek have requested the Durango
Exchange to assist them in securing
a railroad spur, two miles in length,
from the water tank at Franklin
Junction to their respective proper
ties. The owners of the properties
claim they can increase the railroads
tonnage fully 10000 tons a year Il
the proposed spur is secured. The
0. X. mine has deal pending with
a San Francisco company to furnish
them 1000 tons of blacksmith coal
per month which will undoubtedly be
contaminated If the satisfactory ar.
rangement can be made with the rail-
road.
Semi-weekly herald., 1917-05-03
SILVERTON-DURANGO
TEAMS TO DEBATE
Ia N ss ~

Tonight, representatives from Du-
range High school 90 to Silyerton to
contest in an oration and debate. Du-
rango will be represented in the ora
tion by Fritz Wynn and in the debate
by Clarence Walbridge. Vadis Pax
ton, and Dorothy Hill. This is the
first time that Durango has taken
part in these interscholastic contests.
In debating, Silverton has made an
excellent record. Last year she was
the champion of the San Juan basin,
then debated Lamar, finally debating
Leadville where she was defeated by
only one vote. This year Silverton
WAS defeated by Mancos, Mancos in
turn WAS defeated by Telluride and
Telluride was defeated by Silvertoa.
Three weeks ago, Silverton met Ou-
ray. discussing the question of COY.
eminent ownership of railroads. This
was to decide the championship for
this section Of Colorado, Silverton op-
posed government ownership and was
defeated. Tomorrow night the Du.
range team will discuss the same
question. Durango opposing govern
ment ownership. The outcome u
awaited with much interest