Charlevoix county herald., 1917-04-13

the middle. This house also insists
upon the short coat. II is made some
what like an old-fashioned basque,
with short peplum that clings to
the body, although IL is cut circular.
PaQuin introduced a coat like this last
autumn which was excessively liked
by the women who had turned away
from the long coat, and 1t Is probable
that with Its revival for this spring 1t
Will gain Roadway before June.
Paquin, like Jenny and Premet, uses
the unusually wide, loose girdle on
all gowns. She does not touch the
empire waistline, which nearly all the
other houses show In two or three
of the best gowns OF their collections,
and she does not go In for the medic
val glrdle, which has not been relin-
quished by every other designer, but
added TO the belt over the normal
waistline.
Royant's New Coats.
The house of Royant, which Is not
as well known to the public rs Ii
should be, but sufficiently well known
to our buyers to have the fashions
brought TO this country every few
months, has sent out an exceptionally
good looking coat TO match each one
piece frock. 1t Is diversion from
the winter top coat, which often
turned out to be troublesome prob
lem, although as garment 1t Is we'll
nigh Indispensable.
This new coat is like cape that
has little fullness and hangs Imply
against the body. II is slashed at
each side from the hem up to above
the knees, and the sleeves are loose
and bell-shaped. The only trimming
used, no matter what the color of the
coat. is a pointed, fioriated design OF
machine stitching. This stitching is
by no means commonplace; ii is easily
done in America, but it is very ex-
pensive. 1t is loose chainstitch that
must be perfectly done in order to
carry out the sharp, interlacing out
lines of the design. Beige, string color
and dark blue are used for these coats,
and the material is sort of soft broad
cloth. The machine sutchery is III
black
Royant has made a great name In
Europe for one-piece frocks, or sport
suits, which can be worn on the street
with dignity. The best gown sent
over from this house Is such decided
contrast to everything we have been
wearing, that it was eagerly accepted
by the Americans who saw 1t.
The skirt Is exceedingly narrow, Is
laid In machine knife plaits and hangs
In a plumb line from waist to ankles.
The bellboy jacket is in a straight
| line from shoulder to hips, cut on
slim measurements in order TO make
one look youthful, and its surface is
covered with this machine chainstitch
| in oyster white. The sleeves are plain,
small and quite long, finished with
narrow band of white satin that flares
over the hand, and u row of pearl but
| tons that keeps ii tight ut the wrist.
From the bottom of the jacket comes
sash that goes straight around the
| figure at the hips and is looped over
into two ends at the back.
DriscoI and the Redingote.
Jenny is not the only important de-
signer In Paris who put out the red
ingote for the spring. Her house has
never relinquished the redingote idea.
but has played upon the one theme In
different ways.
Paquin and Driscoll come back TO
the actual redingote in the form or
slim coat with a slight curve below
the hips to show that the oval sill
houette, as the French call 1t, Is APP
proved.
Driscoll has always had high repu-
tatiOn for coat suits and for whatever
is tailored, and he makes the straight
redingote which opens in front over
narrow skirt of satin or crepe de chine,
as opposed TO the worsted fabric or
the coat. He also combines foulard
and serge and crepe and serge.
The house of Driscoll Is one OF the
few that makes afternoon gowns with
| full skirts. 1t is true that this full
ness is not displayed as much at the
hem as il was last autumn, but there
is not the straight. pull-down line that
the buyers feel Is entirely new and
will be accepted.
| Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
| per Syndicate.