davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-05-20
Wasteful Menus
Iron The Providence Journal

itfNH Aht AIpt idfhtf Soh4Ha4f
President Wilson wants the American peo-
pie to do as he does, not only to do as he
says-whieh is why there will be a White
House kitchen garden in vacant lot that
belongs to the Department OF Justice; and
which is why Mrs. Wilson has already cut
down the White House official and private
dinners to plain fare and few courses. The
first lady in the land sets fine example.
II Americans generally do not overfeed
they do TO large extent indulge in diverse
dishes and fancy foods, which run up bills
The forty Boston hotel and restaurant pro-
pretors who have combined TO cut the frlls
out Of their menus have begun movement
that should enlist not only public caterers
but housekeepers all over the country. II
we do not cut down the volume OF our food
consumption but merely dispense with so
much variety a vast amount OF waste in both
labor and foodstufs vii! be avoided.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-05-20

bored nor his company assume the supe-
rority of the artistically priggish VINO
sometimes undertake to "upllft the
drama"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-05-20
Spring

The Night has passed, the Spring has come
again,
Come with hint of tender April rain.
And mist of daffodis where woods were bare,
And song. and note OF hope that fills the air.
Awake. oh hearts, awake. oh lips and sing,
Awake awake. Death cannot spoil
the Spring"
MACON
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-05-20

r..e,.d At u, ro,,csce At Nov York :, Second Ci''
Mall Matter
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16
EUerHthiRq in Sets

For the last few seasons there has
been a tremendous vogue for acces-
so'ios OF dress in sets And this year
,ho vogue s. Just as persistent ~
ever.
There are se't Of scarf. muff hat
ald bag. TLesc are usually made un
of fur and velvet and some aro
charming The elaborate ones arc for
afternoon wear
There are also charming sets for
skating, consisting of a skating bag, n
cap and . mutfler. One of these ia
,lade OF bright plaid velvet, trimmed
Win seal The muffler is wide and IL
ltldcd at each end with a strip of the
seal, from which three big seal balls
dergle The little cap is made with y
shaped--or rather gorcd--crown OF
velvet, and an Outstanding. snug
linn of seal
Another interesting set shows a hat
with wide black velvet brim and Il
crown of woven chenille In various
hlirht colors. The scarf Is made OF
flack velvet. with. an embroidered
Land of chenille at each end.
Then there is a little set consisting
Of a bag ana hat. The crown OF the
hat is made OF figured silk, and the
hrim is of mink. The bag, OF an un-
usual shape. Is OF the SILK, with trim
laing Lands Of the mink.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16
Q1hoodlllGelI Dressed yll6Ilen llll 1eaT $50
Cue. R1e.QuA.>da-

lave wrapped their clothes about
them for centuries, and the 5ensuous-
ness OF the east is supposed to be the
origin of this bias movement OF fab
tic on the female figure. 1t is sup
roS~d 10 be more alluring than the
straight line. 1t is said to give a
more subtle movement TO tho curves
OF the natural figure than any other
KIND OF fabric movement.
The straight line conceals; the bias
line partly reveals The American
Indian is probably the only great
primitive who kept 10 the straight line
in costumery, as if it were done in
accoI dance with the Indian physical
framework.
Recently the designers have blend
ed the American Indian silho dette
with that of old Egypt. the Egypt OF
drapcries ana pleated si"rs that
sweep nc fec. Ia correction with
the American Indian silhouette. as a
follower of it, there came the atteml
TO make 1t more graceful for tie aver
nge woman by IMPOSING upon 1t a biz
Cf the Greek movement in fabric. but
TIE woman who looks best in the In
uiSn silhouette "arnot touch the
Greek one which calls for breadth and
thickness.
1t is strange that the orientals use
the bias movement in drapery TO dis
play their curves. while the modern
American is going in for the samu
thing, In order to hide whatever flesh
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16

Find out where the bulge rs and
YOU find where the fashion is. This
was the opinion Of an artist who
studied movement and color and
knew nothing of the practical side of
apparel. Turnout the centuries Of
dress" he continued, tho student
who deals only with the history of
fashions Will find that the entire diff
ference rests in the. bulge. its pres
cnce, its absence and its placement.
One could wrte chapters dealing
with the bulge that has gone thru cell
turtles II fashion. A skirt goes sut a E
the hips and in at the ankle, cut at
the ankle and in at the hips; sleeves
flare a: the elbow, the shoulder or
he wrist collars rise outward from.
tbs neck flare over the shoulders, roll
downward to the collar bone. And so
on thru all the details of cOstumery.
The bulge Is so all-important that
q woman is hopelessy out OF fashion
unless she follows its movement S1f
may wear tie wrong color, compro-
nat is SLIGHTLY out
Of fashion or combine materials that
were not intended for each other al
their sources, but she will not put It
fulge whore n bulge should not be
She will work overnight be eXtraVa
cant and lose her temper merely to
avoid wearing n skirt that goes out III
rhc wrong place, sleeve that flares
where it should not hiphne that ia
concave when it ought to be convex.
What IN common garden EnglisN
we call the bulge" the French more
elegantly term "the movement" 1t is
interesting and puzzlirg to those who
70 to Paris the first time and hear
the discussion of dress In the atelieis
of those who design and sell clothes
to hear the two words-"the move
lnent-punctuate every sentence
If the movement of a gown is right,
or If a celebrated designer. thru the
lands and the fabric. brings a new
movement into an accomplished re-
suit. the whole fashion of the season
is changed.
IT is in the movement of fabric that
The manufacturers rest their hopes of
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16
THE ORIENTAL INFLUENCE IN
CLOTHES AGAIN APPEARS

making fortunes. They know the
Public. They know the minds of
women. They know that all kinds or
sccretive and sometimes perniclous.
economy will be practiced in the
Camoufiage whiCh converts o 1
clothes into now, but that all sucn
economy is thrown to the winds when
a new movement becomes the fash
ion and. thru its sinuous lines, throws
all others into the discard.
Til, Bias Movement.
The different curves which clothes
have taken during the last two years
ere too familiar to women's minds to
recount them. They are as easily re-
membered by the woman who dresses
well as a famous pitchers curves are
remembered by "A baseball fan
And these women, who watch tn"
development of line in clothes more
than the introd Iction of new colors
or fabrics. are now interested in that
Oriental movement which is trailing
over the horizon and which we FIRE e
quently call bias
The world has always accredite |
the orient wf,h the lines that go
across and around the figure. The
primitive peoples are supposed to
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16

Shows in the bias movement
of fabric which the dress
makers are trying to substi-
tute for the straight move
ment; the oblique line is
said to make women look
simmer and more youthful.
Sashes are used to camou-
flage old gowns to look like
new ones. Milliners intro
duced new kind of turban
that has a modified harem
veil of tulle.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16

fur that project the neck above tho
line of the evening wrap.
These hoods. taken with the orien-
tai turban with its imitation OF Il
harem veil. are significant of change
in millinery. At least. they present
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16
Slim One-Piece FrOck

We are used to wool embroidery on
cur street suits And now we find
floral designs, worked in silk, on suits
of velour-floral designs such as once
we should have considered suitable
only for conterpieces!
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-12-16

Two GOOD used pianos Mt bargain.
See r. j. White. 146 s. Boston. or
call Usage 45i.--Adv.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
HIS WIFE'S DEATH BED
A BIER FOR TWO IN DAY
Visitor Stricken while In Flat Of Her
Dead Friend


Christopher Rcgan, of 1lS Tenth
Avenue. rushed into the West Twenti'
eth Street police station yesterday
morning
"My wife is dead in bed he gasped
Police who followed him to his fiat
found that Catherine Regain had died
during the night Bruises were found
upon her body These, Regain said
had been caused by fall down stairs
An autopsy later performed at the
Morgue confirmed his statement.
Late yesterday afternoon Regan
again burst into the police station.
There's another one" he cried hys-
terically. There is another woman
dead on my wife's bed"
There WAS another dead woman on
the bed when the police reached the
fat for a second time that day. She
wore a white waist, brown skirt, black
shoes, stockings and hat, and appeared
to be about forty years old. Regain in
sisted that he had never seen her
before.
The police hold TO the theory that
she was friend OF the mans wife
who entered her apartment to cal
upon her and was overcome while
there. II is believed that she had died
OF natural causes.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
War College President to
Go to ASiatic Fleet,
Navy Report
HIS VIEWS CLASH
WITH DANIELS'S
Change To Be Called a
PromOtion-Captain Sims
May Be Successor

Rear Admiral Austin NJ. knight, who,
as president Of the Naval War College,
has boldly pointed out that the de-
fciencies Of the Navy Department from
time to time and who was the first
victim Of Secretary Daniels's now
famous gag rule" is TO be shifted to
the command Of the Asiatic feet, &C
cording to reports which have reached
the New York Navy Yard from Wash
ington.
While this shift is said to be one Of
the first promotions" under the new
law. il was commented upon by some
as being something Of a kick up
stairs" The same report had it that
Captain William S. Sims is to become
one Of the new rear admirals and is
TO succeed Rear Admiral knight as
president Of the War College.
At Washington, Secretary Daniels re-
fused to confirm or deny the truth OF
the rumored promotions, except to say
that Captain Sims had been ordered 70
the War College. Whether this will
carry with IL a promotion to the rank
of rear admiral he would not say.
The officers. however, have been look
ing toward Captain Sims as the sue
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
'SKYSCRAPER KING
ONCE CRAZY is
NOW IN HOSPITAL
Brain Which Dreamed the Tower
Building Into Reality
Is Darkened

Chicago, Jan. 3.-The sanity Of
Francis P. Owings was questioned to-
day. but not for the first time.
Back in the early eighties Owings,
an engineer of somewhat daring pro
clivities, capped the climax Of his rev.
dictionary architectural ideas by pro-
posing to build a twelve story build
ing.
Engineers laughed, and his friends
tapped their foreheads significantly,
but he persisted, and in time attained
financial backing.
The Bedford Building, an altitudi-
nous marvel for that period, was the
result. BY 1893 the Masonic Temple,
with its unheard of nineteen stories,
pierced the sky, to the marvel OF visi-
tors. and 0wings was pointed out a.
the "Skyscraper King" Even then
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
Conference Fails and Con
greSS Will Use Own Judg-
ment, Says Senator
ARMY OFFICERS URGE
UNIVERSAL TRAINING
Committees Work on De
fence Measures and $780,
100000 Military Budget

Washington. Jan. "A sub-commit-
tee Of the Senate Military Committee
continued to-day the accumulation OF
data and opinions Of army officers on
I universal military training, while
House committees worked on details OF
the $500 600 900 military budget for
1918. The Senate Public Lands Com
mittee was informed also that all eff
forts TO reach compromise with the
Navy Department on legislation affect
ing navy oil lands again had failed.
Senator Pittman. Of Nevada, chair
man Of a subcommittee appointed to
confer with navy officials, said that
efforts would now BE- made 10 pass oil
land measures considered proper by
Congress over the objection OF the de
partment Western Senators expressed
Indignation at tie attitude OF the navy.
The department has held that pas
sage Of the pending bill would threaten
the navvs oil reserve supply and make
il dangerous to build oil burning bat
tlecraft in future.
Universal Training Favored
The Senate Military subcommittee
heard Colonel Stephen VI. Foote, OF the
Coast Artillery School, and Colonel
Charles d. Rhodes. OF the Mounted Ser
vice School. Both strongly favored
universal milita~; training legislation
and agreed that the present volunteer
system. particularly the National Guard
feature. was a failure. Colonel Foote
presented a plan providing three
months summer training for each OF
four Years for all available youths aged
seventeen years. A million boys could
receive this training annually, he SAID,
al cost Of about $l0o,0OO,OoO.
Rrigad!er General Crozier, chief o.
army ordnance. told the House Military
Committee that European war orders
were crowding American army con-
tracts out Of private 'muniton plants.
There was little eagerness among man
ufacturers, he said. 20 get the govern
ment's business a vast sum would
be required to FIT government arsenals
TO turn out war time needs OF the
army, General Crozier estimated. add
ing that he favored continuance of the
practice of fostering private plants for
this reason.
Plans for War Motor Cars
Most Of the $4,000, 900 provided for
armored motor cars last session. Gen
eral Crozier said. would 20 for the
acquisition Of feet OF IS Of these
land craft. go motorcycles armed with
machine guns, and $40 cycles with side
cars 10 carry riAemen. A portion Of
the fund viii also 20. he said. toward
the manufacture OF an armored "land
battle craft similar 10 the British
tanks" as soon as a design could be
worked cut
A total Of nearly sb0.OoO.oOO will be
expended on n achine guns for the
army before 1920, under present War
Department plans, General Crozier
said. More than 1900 guns will be
purchased.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04

the Bedford Building, erected before
tho use Of structural steel was under
stood as il is now. had lost its proud
position as a real "skyscraper,' and
to-day it is dwarfed amid towering
monuments to the skill and daring OF
modern science and industry.
But the years that wrought these
changes dealt harshly with the "Sky-
scraper King" and this Afternoon
broken in health and purse, ne was
taken to the Psychopathic Hospital. To-
morrow he will have hearing
A reporter, making the rounds, asked
an attendant II there was anything
new"
Nothing worth while replied the
attendant, unless you can dig some
thing out Of an old codger named
Owines. He thinks he built the first
skyscraper in Chicago"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
EXTEND INCOME EXEMPTION
Treasury Officials Rule All Supporting
DEPENDENTS on $1,000 Escape Tax

Washington, Jan. 3.--Treasury De
partment officials ruled to-day that the
$4,000 exemption from the income tax
law granted TO heads of families ap-
niles not only 10 married persons, but
70 others maintaining dependents over
whom they exercise family control
The original income tax law named
as benefciaries Of the $4,000 exemption
married men living with their wives
and married women living with their
husbands. The act OF last September,
changing the rates of taxation, named
heads Of families"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
GOV. H0LCOMB INAUGURATED
Warns Connecticut Assembly Of Re
sponsibilitles in Opening Address

Marcus H. Holcomb. the first Republi-
can Governor to succeed himself in this
state in the last quarter OF century,
began his second term of Office to-day.
In his inaugural address he told the
legislators that mo other General As
senibly has been required to meet
greater responsibilities than you may
be required 10 meet" He also urged
stricter automobile laws. highway de-
velopment and increased powers for
the State Board Of Health. He asked
that appropriations for armories be
postponed by the Legislature until the
government had determined the status
Of the National Guard.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
ABYSSINIAN EMPEROR TAKEN
Deposed Monarch Captured by Chris
tian RebeIs--His Mother Now Rules

Washington, Jan 3.-Dispatches re-
ceived here to-day describing eondi-
tons in Abyssinia said that the de-
posed Emperor, Lilji Jeassu, had been
captured and his followers were being
pursued ana crushed.
The reports mentioned the German
Minister and Turkish consul as hay-
ing played a part in the events which
led to the upheavsl last fell Lidji, son
Of the second daughter Of the old En-
peror Menelik, soon after ascending
the throne joined with his father in an
attempt to make Mahometanism the
state religion of the ancient Christian
country. He was overthrow by
revolution led by churchmen, and his
mother now reigns.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
DROPS $4,000 WILL FIGHT
Sister of H. w. Ranger Failing to Ap-
near in Contest, Probate Is Ordered

Miss Edith Ranger, failing to appear
in The Surrogates' Court yesterday 10
prosecute her contest Of the will Of her
brother, Henry Ward Ranger. landscape
artist. Surrogate Fowler admitted the
instrument to probate Mr.. Ranger left
s213.320. all Of which he bequeathed
10 the National Academy of Design 10
encourage and patronize American
artists.
Miss Ranger. who had been estranged
from her brother for,several years, re-
ceives nothing under the will. In her
protest against the probating Of the
will she alleged that the artist was OF
unsound mind and was under undue
influence when he executed the paper.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
Big Fee in Bankruptcy Case

Judge Mayer has made an allowance
of $40, 1913 to Hays, Hershfield g. Wolf,
attorneys for the trustee in the bank
ruptcy case of A. o. Broun g. Co, stock
brokers, which was started on August
27. 1908. A dividend to the creditors
IA per cent was also declared, which
will aggregate S29,978 Dividends Of
~ per cent have previously been paid.
Claims allowed against the firm were
S23lS.30S
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
Baroness to Tell of Wounded

The Baroness Huard. whose CnSteau
dc Nillers in France has been uSed ~
a hospital for troops stricken w
contagious diseases, VIII speeaN oe'o
tbo National Special Aid Society, nj
950 F;ftb Avenue. this afternoon.
Patronesses for tomorrow me-.
;,a arc Mrs william Alexander, pres
- AZ ~ the society: Mrs. O. II. P. Bel
uoon+ Mrs Oliver b. Bridgman. Mrs
Era5erir r. Coudert. Duchesse Do
Cbaulnes. Mrs. George J. Gould and
others
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
Buffalo Bill" Recovering

Denver, Jan. 3.-Willism 2. Cody,
Buffalo BILL went TO Glenvood
Springs to-day, accompanied By his
sister, 10 receive medical treatment
at the baths there. The aged scout has
not regained his health as rapidly AS
he wished since his recent illness, ard
a physician and nurse will attend him.
His condition is not critical.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
INCURABLE. TRIES TO DIE
Cuts Wrists and Leaps from Homes
Second Story Window

Despairing Of ever being well again,
Dietrich Fulle, an inmate of the Home
for Incurables at Third Avenue and
1S3d Street, cut his wrists with a piece
OF glass yesterday and leaped from thu
window OF the ward in which he was
confined to the pavement, two stories
below
A nurse. who had left the ward for
a moment. returned TO find the mans
bed empty. She was the first TO reach
the unconscious man, who, beside his
self-inhicted wounds, had received in
terns injuries and broken thigh
from his fall.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
ccours Kentucky Annals
u Making Charge Against
His ACCuSer
prGRET COMES AFTER
WRATH GROWS COLD
Wishes He Hadn't When
He Sees Melodramatic
Philippe in Type

-..-.4.... b~,,,r~hs
Wrath so inc "0N">"'''"'
bv 1ucian s. Breckenridge,
i-asi u''' L. a., nv
forrsr assistant '" nus 49,
-.-.5 IN tbc Spartan breast o. plS'r'''
,..rC Swami. and simmereu anu
..--ered and Yesterday boiled over 'n
the i'in y. ,..,~ro,,s accusation
The ll>.-'N
.rsinst his former 'o-"o'N'' Nou'"
.,-, bic ir any mclodrama. IN
..-. - WAS printed only in the
fortunately
,Heruoon papers "'"
.r 70 .n cold type Swami began 10
,... and thcr commissions Of
Rave Q'".'
-egre.
For ir HIS carcrncss 10 blast MI
.,.--.4~e .of Kentucky" entirely
h'''N. 49,. .t, District Attorney
ogi o. 'N''.''' -,.- =.
I'D no, stop aI'el hNNlng SpoA'" ''
80. 5e,aI of the personal quallrca-
s' 3D.. .~tsrorist Instead. he
ions o. jus - -.,.--
apparently Icaa TIC o"''ie s'''O"'0e'
~ the Rrcct .-rdgc family and went
~ 81. ...~seI away back into the
i,'''- -.1:-.,e.. ro.-.l, +, q
carly gu S. All u. ..''S
statement th3, huiWer Lyl'oh might
.,re written 81 novel around.
Suffered from Uneasiness
,..- ,r.uu;. nod o,roore5
hIt U.|f| ..r f...t fi'N '''N 'i
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
cessor Of Rear Admiral knight for sew
eral weeks.
Splendid Sea Record Made

cessor Of Rear Admiral knight for sew.
eral weeks.
Splendid Sea Record Made
when he was detached from command
OF tho superdreadnought Nevada Off
GERS said that he was due for an i'm
portant appointment on account Of the
splendid record he made while skipper
Of the big vessel. His handling OF the
Nevada brought praise for both himself
and his crew, and officers declared that
re was the logical man for head of the
War College in the event Of his eleya-
ton TO the rank Of rear admiral.
II was also said that Admiral Angus
tus WHITEWATER, who for the last year
and a half has been head OF the Ash
attic division, was slated TO leave the
feet 10 take up important duties at
Washington.
Rear Admiral knight ranks next TO
Admiral George Dewey in the list Of
naval officers. His elevation from a
captaincy was delayed when he was
court-martialed several years ago on
charges of "culpable negligence and
inefficiency in the performance OF
duty" IN connection with ordnance
tests on the monitor Puritan, which
resulted in the sinking of that vessel
in Chesapeake Bay.
The verdict Of the court, which con
sisted OF seven rear admirals. headed
by Rear ADMIRAL Robley d. Evans, was
complete and honorable acquittal, but
Secretary Meyer returned the verdict
with his disapproval. The case re-
suited in a rsiffirmation Of the former
verdict.
Since he has been president of the
War College he has differed radically
in his views concerning the upbuildine
Of the navy with the Administration
and with Rear Admiral Frank F
Fletcher. All along he has contended
that every effort should be spent in
adding ships Of the battle cruiser type
the efficiency Of which was borne out
in the Jutland battle In this argument
he has had the staunch backing of Cap
tain Sims. although the latter has not
been so outspoken in his criticism.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04
Fire Destroys Two Zeppelins

London. Jan. g. Two Zeppelins have
been destroyed at Tondern, Schleswig,
by a fire due to defective electric wiz
ing in recently constructed double
shed. SAYS a Reuter- dispatch from Co
nenhaCen.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-01-04

ISed 10 comm
e rumored pr
at Captain 81
e War Cole
Try with IL a
rear admiral
The officers. /
& toward Cal
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