davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
to the silhouette.
 Manufactured Checks Of Fabric.


 Three very good looking sport skirts are pictured Two models shown together are of khaki-kool, which IS an ideal skirt material. The striped skirt is pleated in shallow box pieIts. each pleat covering a stripe in the material The skirt on the seated figure shows a novel trimming idea big checks of contrasting color ap- pliqued to the material above a hem also of the contrasting fabric. It IS not hard to manage this smart trim ming at home. All the checks, or blocks, must be cut from the same pattern-a true square. Then they must be carefully pasted in placeson the skirt, after the edges 1of each square have been turned in and pressed firmly. The blocks must be appliqued to the material with blind stitching, or may be stitched on the machine with perfectly matched sew ing silk. keeping the seam as near the edge as possible.
 To Every Sport Skirt Its Reticulc. Do not overlook the reticules pie tured with all these silk sport skirts. Hamlet with the Dane left out in- deed is this summers sport skirt minus it's matching handbag The more unique the shape of the reticule. too, the better-and it should be | roomy affair with capacity for ali the little traps one carries about in sum mer time-fancy work included. The dotted sport skirt Is of white tussah with discs in blue, red, green and yell low. Hat and parasol are of the same material, the blouse fine white nat
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
Hou ToMake IrishMoss I Tea

sugar to taste and re-heat before serving. adding little more water If it is desirable to thin the beverage. The "tea" which you perceive is really oEly q slightly thickened lemonade. may be slipped at intervals. And need- less to add. the slipper. who has been exposed to chill and cold. must be kept very warm and very quiet. and must eat lightly of simple food until the system has regained it's normal tone. Almost any cold can be cured entirely in twenty four hours. if the victim will go to bed. relax utterly rest. sleep. partake of only light nour- ishment and keep thoroughly warm. But a cold is such a little thing when 1t starts and unfortunately few people feel they can afford to spare twenty-four hours out of a busy life to get over a cold. But even an even- ing given up to the warmth. rest and quiet cure will so long way toward curing . cola or making its attack light. It IS keeping going" with the consequent strain ol a vitality al-eady tremendously busy with it's jon cf fighting off the cold, that makes moss folks so utterly miserable with hard cold, and so weak and tired out after it is over.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
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l tifully dressed and with hair care IuIly curled and arranged, whose scaips show crust of dirt because
 shampoos are so much trouble" The average child loathes having it's hair washed; the process is never an agree aole one Tor mother, nurse. or small Vlctln and this is usually because the water IS too hot and the rubbing too rough, the main idea of the grown-up pelng to get the task over with as speedily as possible. Use warm, not not water and pure castillo soap which may be shcved first and dissolved in boiling water.
 Dilute this mixture with cool water ana rub we'll into the scalp until a fine father has been obtained, all over the little head. Then rinse in several waters, all lukewarm and not too hot or too cold for comfort-not of ones own hand but the tender head at ones mercy Dry with warm towels and then With fan. Select a bright day for the shampoo and have the child play about in the sunshine, even if the windows must be kept closed be- cause the weather is cold. The sun helps to bring out the gold glint in freshly washed hair and will also aid in the drying process.
 If the child's hair shows a tendency toward weak growth and sparseness, massage every night with the finger- tips to stimulate the scalp, and never omit the morning and evening brush ing which does more than anything else to make the hair silky of tex ture and strong and sturdy of growth A little white vaseline rubbed into the roots will help the growth of weak hair but no tonics should be used without the advice of competent specialist.
 Stiff ringlets are no longer the fash ion; the little girls hair must be soft and fluffy. cloud about her face. The ringlets may be made first with brush and forefnger and should then be combed out lightly. A frizzy ef-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
skirts and not military trimmings, and

skirts and not military trimmings, and the Jenny skirts are altogether charm ing. One of her daintiest sport skirts is of beige mohair and worsted mix ture with box pleats down each side from belt to hem and apron drap- cries across back and front and fall ing just short of the knee These aprons and the edge of the skirt below (but not the box pleated sides) are stitched in many rows with self-col- ored sewing silk and the skirt but tons down the center front as far as the hem of the apron, with little brown buttons. This skirt is being worn -by New York woman who has selected .as it's accompaniments White-topped buttoned boots of brown leather, brown straw hat with white lace veil, and blouse Of beige chiffon with little embroideries of coral beads.
 The striped flannel sport skirt pie tured is also from Jenny-or at least its original was Jenny model This skirt is light, comfortable and not too warm for the warmest summer day. Some women contend that these light weight flannel skirts are cooler than starched linen or duck just as most men insist that white flannel trousers are cooler than trousers of white duck. At any rate the striped flannel sport skirt is much the thing just now and it is extra smart if accompanied by blouse of silk cashmere. In the cos tune pictured the blouse is embroid- cred in pale green, dark green and rose to match the stripes in the skirt. The hat is green straw with white straw facing; the buttoned boots are white, worn with striped sport stock ings.
 Sport Skirts With Ruff1ed Pockets.
 One may be as coquettish and fem mine as she pleases in modern sport skirt. Just because sport skirt bears that name it does not have to be stern ly tailored or semi-masculine in type. Not at all: it may have captivating frills and founces if it pleases, and also a sash. But the founces must hang from the pockets and not en- circle the skirt itself. So insists Cherit whose latest sport skirt, of striped lilac and white messaline. Is the daintiest thing imaginable. There 1 is gathered yoke to the hip and 1, from this (attached by a cording) hangs the gathered skirt finished only 1 by deep hem But tre pockets! They are big, corded and .shirred bags set on over each hip, the top coming even with the cording that separates yoke and lower portion of the skirt.
 And from the lower edge of each pocket where it is sewed to the skirt depends twelve-inch founce that gives decided gaiety---and bouffancy-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

last seasons skirt model; and if 1t could, 1t would lack that pristine freshness that is half the charm of one of these simple but chic gar
 nents. A typical satin sport skirt of the moment Is pictured. It is shirred h. three rows at the waistline and has "a deep hem at the ankle. The pockets which add immeasurably to it's smart ness, are set on with cords and are drawn up with corded shirrings, a pleating of the selvedga of the satin being set along the top of each pocket. This skirt is made of gold-colored satin and is shirred and hemmed by hand with gold colored sewing silk. A blouse of cream-colored tub silk &C., companies the skirt.
 Sport Skirts Show Barrel Silhouette.
 Many of the tailored skirts of wor- sted fabric and of mohair show the barrel silhouette which is commend
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

little sister. After adolescence the character of the hair will be definitely
 settled and 1t will be curly hair or
 straight hair until old age, whether it is braided. coiled, twisted or wrapped around the head But many a curly
 haired baby grows up to bemoan her straight locks; and more than one youngster with hopelessly straight tresses is the possessor of wavy hair in adult life. Just why this is, no one seems to know but there are instances of the kind in the experience of al- most everyone Only very foolish and frivolous minded mother would touch her lit- tie daughters hair with any chemical;
 and it is almost as bad to use hot curling irons on the delicate hair tendrils of childhood The use of peroxide, to keep the hair of baby
 hood light-colored is certainly not ad- visable though little peroxide in the rinsing water for woman's hair will
 do no harm. Frequent shampoos with pure soap and water, brisk massage of the scalp. frequent sunnings and constant brushings will do all that Is necessary for the little girls tresses. If the hair grows darker gradually, one must make the best of it-not all women have golden hair. Very, very few in fact are so blessed, and if the growing girl is to have brown locks, the golden hue of babyhood is bound to change by the sixth or seventh year. A pitiable sight indeed is the little maid of nine or ten years with arti- ficially bleached tresses; and later the condition will be even worse, when broken off hairs and a streaky color make the coiffure of twelve or thir- teen anything but lovely
 Children's heads must be shampooed regularly-and frequently, especially children living in the country where little folks run about without hats and the head is exposed to dust and dirt. Incredible as, it may seem to the care full mother. there are children. beau-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
.OBODY but a mother knows the
 fima and fr0uhla if fakna f0

OBODY but a mother knows the
 time and trouble it takes to
 keep the wee girls hair brushed U = and washed and curled and generally in dainty, spic and span con- diticn. When the wee girl has pale ccrn-colored or golden locks the trou- ble and time may be multiplied by two. But never yet was there moth- CT who begrudged time or trouble or considered the labor anything but a labor of love. It is usually the small person who does the begrudging, espe- cially when the lovely curls that ev- erybody raves about have to be slept upon in knobby punches made by curlers. It always seems pity to torture child thus. yet many and many a little head turns restlessiy on the pillow because of lump curlers made of kid or even of. harsher sub- stance.
 It is much more sensible to allow the cfild's hair to hang straight. If 1t Is kept trimmed by barber who knows his business it will look smart and correct, even if not as pretty as softer curls would be. Have you ever noticed how many children in fash ionable and exclusive circles have straight, trimmed hair; and how the dar1ings Of humble homes are be- curied and befrizxed--particul on dress-up occasions? Of course. if the wee girl is one of the fairy-kissed mortals with naturally curly locks. so much the better for herself and her fond mamma. There is nothing love- Her than the golden, curly head of a little child and such a rare possession should be given exquisite care.
 Never braid naturally curly childish hair, for by so doing you may destroy it's tendency to curl. On warm sum- nner days the curls may be piled high on the wee tots head in quaint and bewitching fashion; the girl of seven or eight may have her curls tied back with ribbon; but braids should be permitted only to the straight haired
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
A SLEEPING PLACE IN THE
 TABLE NOW.

- HE folding bed. was once nine days wonder, but now 1t is so
 far out of fashion that even the @p apartment house dweller' will have none of it. Its place has been taken. in recent years by the davenport which by night resolves itself into capacious double bed. But the daven- ports nose is broken now-so to speak-for new darling has arrived in the shape of an apartment house space saver: the table-bed which dur ing the day is good looking library table of near Queen Anne type with a shelf underneath and capacious drawers with wooden knobs. Some where within those drawers a full- sized bed hides itself away-the thing is marvellous, really! The top of the table lifts itself up and the drawer fronts, knobs and all. go with it and out comes the bed; full length. and comfortable as an overnight guest could wish.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

feet is always painful. however, and artificial curls made over kids are very apt to give this effect The best sort of cIrlers-if curlers must be used-are made of soft strips of linen cloth. The lock of hair, slightly damp ened is rolled and then twisted over the strip of cloth which may be tied in double knot or pinned fast with a safety pin Never on any account 1t seems almost unnecessary to add th1s-put ordinary, sharp-pointed pins m such curriers'. They may be worn only during the daytime but one never knows when a child may tumble down or roll about in play. and a tragic
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

~ HERE are. certain elderly folk
 A who swear by ancient and hon.
 orable Irish moss tea as cura- <0 tive for coughs and colds and insist that nothing can so ably ward off d bad cold as this good old tea, taken when the first chilly feeling at tacks one. Every house-mother of the old regime knew how to make moss tea, but this excellent remedy and preventive is seldom used nowadays. Moss tea is really delicious and chill dren will take it joyfully, when some other remedy in tablet or liquid form might cause rebellion. Soak handful of Irish moss in q cup of boiling water for few moments, until the moss is dissolved and the water is slightly .thickened, like liquid jelly. Then strain, add the juice of lemon and
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

that the best tailors are now giving skirts that measure two and a half to three yards at the foot and the effect is really very graceful when we'll done. The Poiret skirt pictured has this slight slope and is called in Paris a barrel skirt, yet it's lines could surely not offend any taste, even the most conservative The Poiret skirt is fitted
 over the hips by wide and narrow pleats and cord ornament falls over each wide pleat. These ornaments
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

accident might easily result from a sharp pinpoint.
 Hair that is not very thick should not be tied up with ribbon but should be simply parted and allowed to hang over the ears and just short of the nape of the neck. Thicker hair may be divided and tied up at one side, a crisp bow covering the narrow ribbon which holds the tied-up lock,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

ed by Paris. The barrel skirt sounds much worse than it looks. It is not at all extreme (unless cut so pur- posely) or ugly on the figure. AL most any skirt is more graceful if it curves in bit toward the feet in- stead of swinging out in a straight line and you will remember that fash ion artists gave skirt lines this clever little inward curve below the knee long before barrel skirts were thought of. It is this subtle inward curve
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
A VEIL IS AS SMART AS IT Is
 ECCENTRIC

~ ONE of the new patterns in veil- N ings give amazing expressions
 N to the face beneath, but the
 more weird and eccentric veil pattern, the smarter it is, in the esti- nation of some women. Only pretty face can stand conspicuous veil de- sign, the plain woman or the woman of dull, washed-out coloring should confine herself to fine meshed veilifgs with conservative and unobtrusive pat terms in border or all-over effect. The latest veil of the woman who adores striking fashions has a vine design that radiates in six lines from dot which rests just over the dimple in her chin, giving her face something the effect of a war map with the last retreat in the Sonme country indi- cated by wavy lines. The upside down veils with most of the pattern at the top where it shows against the hat have not diminished in favor; one seer them evaxxWhe~~
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

depend from tabs which overlap a mar row, braid-trimmed belt. The barrel pockets at the sides are also trimmed with cord ornaments. Many of the French skirts have this suggestion of the military in braid and cord trim mings and in rows of metal buttons. Odd and individual belts are also seen on the Paris skirts.
 Jenny's Sport Skirt Graceful.
 Jenny is putting aprons on sport
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27

A TRAVELLING BAG FOR THE
 HONEYMOON.
 ~ HE bride, of course. has her own & dressing bag, daintily equipped ~ with toilet essentials and bear ing on it's smart varnish leather outside the initials of her new name. Such a bag, of black morocco lined with tapestry blue moire silk and fitted in white celluloid and dull gilt costs about thirty dollars.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-04-27
Striped Flannels MakeVery Smart Summer Skirts for General Wear ' The Skirt of Tussah or Khaki kool Is Ideal for Country Club Wear French Sport Skirts.

sHo y OAb two ago. When they were men tioned It all, 1t WAS in paragraph tagged on at the end of a page about new blouses; or inserted somewhere in q page on general athletic .wear-as sport garb used to be called. But how hath the humble separate skirt grown in importance. Whole windows in exclusive shops are. devoted to 1t; pattern magazines print pictures of it In vASious guises; special departments in the garment sections of the great shops are given over to it's exploita- tion-and here we are, you and T., making a particular study of 1t today.
 For the wardrobe without several good looking sport skirts would be poor indeed-and this at time when fashion insists upon the one-piece frock as the standard of dress for all formal occasions! A sport skirt, at it's bonniest. can never be considered a formal garment. Even when made of silk or Of satin 1t is only a sport sktrtnc to De worn at wedding or a dinner party or even at the. the. atre unless one goes very quietly, sit- ting upstairs in the balcony with an escort not in evening attire.
 Many Sport Skirts or silken Stun.
 But though the sport skirt is not recognized by fashion as a formal affair, 1t is permitted to show itself in fabrics that are distinctly of for nal nature. Nothing seems too good for q sport skirt-even velvet. Some Of this winters separate skirts were Of velvet and summer sport skirts are of corduroy. form of velvet. satins and silks are very much the thing for the making of summe. sport skirts and some of the models are built of messaline or meteor satin quite ele- gant enough for wedding gowns
 ! There is vast difference between . spic ard span new silk sport skirt, worn with simple blouses in the house, and tho second-year old skirt of a silk frock which every woman used to "wear around the house" when fashion was not so arbitrary about indoor costumes as she is now. What does become of the silk frocks of last year, anyway--one never seems to rec them about7 Perhaps. thrifty souls make them over into petticoats. At any rate no sport skirt of this summer could possibly De cut from a
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-07
81 Arrested at Jersey
Anti-Draft Meeting
Cuardsmen Hold Paterson
Crowds as Police Search
Men for Blue Cards

Paterson. July 5-The police and
United states Secrc. Service men IN
vaded an anti-conscription meeting oe-
ing held in the Paterson Auditorium
tonight under the auspices OF the
American Union Against Militarlsm,
and arrested thirty-one young men
who were unable to produce registra-
ton cards. More than 1000 persons
attended the meeting. and detach-
ment OF The 5th New Jersey Infantry
was summoned to aid the police in
holding the crowds back while they eN-
amined each man Of apparent con-
Scription age
The Rey. Norman Thomas. of New
York. was the principal speaker, but
his remarks were decidedly tame IN
comparison TO the sentiment OF the
meeting. Henry Hubschmidt, for
mer candidate for Mayor, was another
speaker.
All of those arrested gave their ages
as nineteen or twenty and thirty one
or thirty-two. Acting Chief of Police
Perry ordered them locked up for the
night until an investigation can be
made in each case. No charge has been
placed against them.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-07
Canadian Draft
Bill Passed to
Second Reading
Liberals Support Borden
Against Laurier; Vote,
118 to 33

Ottawa. July 6.-The Canadian
House Of Commons early to-day ado1t-
ed tn resolution offered b. Premier
Borden passing TO second reading eae
bill for compulsory military service.
Exciting scenes marked the taxing OF
the vote. which stood lis for conscrip-
ton and 80 against
The division gave the government
about twenty more votes than It US l.
ally polls on important questions. This
was the result Of considerable NUM-
Der OF Euelish-speakinc Liberals
breaking away from the leadership Of
SIR Wiifrid Laurier and joining with
Premier Borden in support OF conscrlp-
ticn.
Before the bill was sanctioned, Sir
Wilfrid Laurier's propose that the
opinion of the people on conscription
should be tested by a referendum was
defeated by majority OF forty-nine.,
A resolution presented by the
French Nationalist from the Province
OF Quebec that the conscription bill
should be killed by the adoption OF a
six-months' postponement was defeated
By the large majority OF loo. only
nine Nationalist votes were cast Tor the
resolution. and both the government
aud the Opposition voted against 1t.
An amendment aimed TO supply more
adenuate provision for dependents OF
men at the ilont was defeated, Ito
TO 80. ...
Premier BorGen explained that tc
amendment was "dilatory' and that he
would refuse to allow II TO interfere
with the second reading.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-07
National Bible Institute Holds
$50 Outdoor Meetings Week
New Series Is Conducted in the White Light District
Womens Organization and Students OF Christian
Workers School are Cooperating

night in the Tent Evangel, at 10th
street and Amsterdam Avenue. The
speakers will be Lieutenant Henry
Reuterdahl. Job L. Hedges, Bob
Jones. the Alabama evangelist, and the
Rev. G.. ". Mcpherson.
Dr.. J. Wilbur Chapman. evangelist
and moderator Of tha Presbyterian
Church of North America, will speak
at Tent Evangel tomorrow afternoon,
at p. m. Bob" Jones will conduct
revival meetings At the tent next week,
speaking every day and twice on Mon
day.
The Very Rev. J. P. y. Lloyd, Dean
Of Nova Scotia, will be the special
preacher at the morning services at Old
Trinity Church on July % and %
During August the special preacher
will be the Rev. Leicester {. Lewis, of
he Western Theological Seminary,
Chicago
Patriotic meetings on war problems
are being held during July at the
Church of the Ascension, Fifth Avenue
and Tenth Street. The speaker to-mor-
row will be Colonel Charles Bigelow,
recently returned from Two years
stay IN England.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-07

TIL. first week of summer found the
outdoor sessions of the National Bible
Institute largely attended in various
narts Of the city. More than 100 meet
inrs are being held each week with an
aggregate attendance Of 10000 persons
A new series of meetings in the white
ticb,, district is being held under the
leadership of f. c. Burnz and David
Sterling. Members OF the Women's In
stitu,e League and students Of the
Institute School for Christian Workers
are cooperating.
Another new series under the au-
spices of the National Bible institute
is being conducted for Italians IN The
Bronx. The service is in Italian and
is preceded By an Italian Sunday school
AZ o'clock on Sunday mornings IN
The Bronx Gospel Hall.
Don o. Shelton, president Of the in
stitute. will speak tomorrow at the
regular weekly Bible hour, at 4 p. m,
at the headquarters, GA West Thirty
NTH Street. His subject will be "Thc
Devil in New York"
patrio:ic mass meeting under the
auspices of the Mayors Committee on
National Defence will be held Monday