The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-08-04

methods in black and white, in combi-
nation, will take leading part in the
clothes to be ushered in during Sep
TENDER.
1t takes an artist to originate new
juxtapositions of white against black
Therefore, the French artists and their
American collea CUES are in high feath-
err when they are working for original
ity along this line.
Gowns on the French stage, as well
as those worn at smart resorts in this
country. show, for instance. the revival
of the polonaise, in black satin lined
with white satin, dropped over a skirt
OF white satin, with bodice of black
showing a waistcoat of white. The
polonaise of the hour is not the genu-
the polonaise of Louis XIV's time. 1t
is merely two long, slightly full panels
which are placed at the sides of the
skirt which almost meet at the back
and which drop to the knees.
In the new garments which will be
shown in mid-August, in Paris, this
new movement of the skirt will be ac-
centuated. AS fra gile velvet and fur
will be the combination of the autumn,
these swinging panels from the waist
will be made of both fabrics.
The Sleeveless Bodice.
1t may have been known by the de-
signers in this country that the Ameri-
can army in France would be supplied
with medieval, sleeveless jenkins, lined
1
Whether or not the designers were
| aware of this fact, it is curiously in
teresting that they have introduced
that garment in womcn's costumery.
1t is minus the wool, but t Is cut in
the same manner and worn outside of
the hours devoted to sp ort-
1t began It's career in leather and it
ended in Lyons velvet and Russian
kolinsky. 1t has made a wide appeal
to women and designers, because 1t
TxyQC MT of ~ ~ ont
1t is what our Sammies will wear in
France.
1t is in keeping with the emphatic
| trend to hide the waistline when it is
sharply marked by the joining of the
shirtwaist and the separate skirt. 1t
caters to women's delight il the juxta-
| position of bright colors during the
summer season In the autumn, when
built of fine fabric and trimmed with
silky peltry, it will add a bit to the
| military swagger which we are already
beginning to get and it prov des way
| out of wearing the universal coat
The New Plaid Fabrics.
The person who does no. like plaid
need not feel that the autumn will
| bring release from it-s Just the OPP
posite is likely to occur. There is no
law that will make one wear plaids
and checks, IL the taste - opposed to
| this design, but the designers are go
| ing to see to 1t that the world that
does like plaid has plenty of choice to
| make among the costumes that en-
| body it.
There will be an continuance of sep
arate skirts in plaid. The accepted
| fashion of a knife-pleated plaid skirt
below a black cloth coat which has
| collar and cuffs of the paid, has set
tied this kind of costume on the fash
| ionable highways.
New suits and froeks which will
soon be shown in Paris lave unusual
cravats. gauntlet collars a-it girdles of
plaid. silk and cloth There are patri-
otto plaids. so called, in chiffon and
| gauze. which show a faint outline of
national coiors running across a blue
backgroun q
| The marine cravat, in Scotch plaids,
| will be widely offered as en- enlivening
note on frocks of somber colors, such
as blue, beige and sand eolors. jersey
| and serge.
| In chiffon and other fragile fabrics,
| the plaid design is not as alluring to
| the woman with artistic tastes as the
| sumptuous bouquets of hal- faded
| flowers known as the Pompadour and
Dresden designs, but 1t will be offered
as a variation from the c5rnrlonplace.
| Scotch plaids in Afternoon and even
made on sturdy cloth suitable for
street use. but it is proohesied from
| high quarters that this state of az
fairs will change.
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