The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1917-09-16

was also placed on many other doors
saying that the place would be closed
until the end of the war, has been TAX
en- down. France may have foreseen a
long war, but her people felt that things
would come to a crisis before the fourth
year broke
Poiret is always important, therefore,
what he shows is of interest. To begin
with, he features the waistline which is
dropped below the normal, In the ori-
entail manner. There Is very little that
would ever appeal to Poiret in the first
and second empire fashions. He is
strongly barbaric in what he does. He
has genius for fabrics. He knows the
art OF weaving and dyeing better than
most artists in Paris do, and he has spe-
cial places that work out his ideas,
Therefore, he has been able to make.
frocks In the new kind of plush which
will be very hard to get in this country.
but which will be desired because 1t has
been featured by a few of the great
French dressmakers. The fabric is diff
hcult to describe. because 1t owes every
thing to its manner Of weaving.
Poiret uses an unusual amount Of
black and white and brings back
quantities of black and white jet Law
ishly arranged on frocks with a Slavic
or oriental tendency.
His evening gowns feature the high
line at the neck, which he has ALWAYS
sponsored. His wife, beautiful woman.
VINO wore his clothes better than any
one else, always adopted the evening
gown which showed only two or more
inches of the neck and dropped in a
flexible line to a low belt
Poiret will never give up the skirt
that suggests Turkish TROUSERS. It is al
most as much symbol of his work as
the FIAT, red rose that he used in his Mar
tine house decorations. He does not OBJ
Ject to the separate bodice of velvet thst
FORMS part of the evening gown. al
though he has watched a good MANY 9th
er dressmakers use it since he invented
1t nearly half dozen years ago. r. Is
probable that his separate evening bodice
) VIII form feature of costumery in
America after October.
LNAVIN IS SLAVIC
There have been so MANY things :,
common between Paul Poiret and Jeanne
AanVin TOR so many years that some
oressmakers have insisted that they are
related or that the houses are CONNER
cially connected. The personalities of
these two designers in France are as
different as can be, even beyond the
ract that one is woman and one is n
man.
Therefore, it is not surprising tha-
While Poiret clings to the sumptuous eff
fects of an exotic past, Lanvin also con-
and Russian fashions.
She mas gone to Servia and Rumania
Tor inspiration and probably draws a col
or line or suggestion from the Cos
sacks of central Russia. In direct con-
trast to these short, brilliant Slavic
eiothes she has put out a most dignified
evening gown. The skirt is quite long.
nut without train, and the belt is near
ly over the hip line The top part of
the skirt has the tightness of the days
OF the renaissance and judging by the
many things that Lanvin is doing, as
well as other French dressmakers it
looks as though the loose blouse in any
form will soon belong to a day that is
done.
This is not startling news to the Amer
| lean woman because the smartly dressed
Young women have paen adopting the
tight bodice and the long, tight sleeves
in thoir summer clothes even making
them of bingham and especially of Ter
sey cloth.
Lanyin also exploits the large waist
coat in various materials, to be worn
under a coat suit and to serve as a
blouse or jerkin when the coat is re-
moved
The hats she produces with these
gowns are often small of brim She
clings to the Russian effect but she has
introduced a small edition of the CONT.
mental worn by Lafayette and Washing.
ton.
Like Poiret. she also uses quantities
OF brilliant black and white Jet, highly
polished and facetted
The Slavic gowns have wide skirts.
The skirts in coat suits are less than
two yards wide, Like Doeuillet, Ian
win slashes good many of her coats
and TUNES from the waist to the hem
A novelty suit has a brown velvet
skirt, the jacket of worsted, closely
Knitted and seemingly quite solid ana
strong.
1t was Lanvin who first put out the
quilted satin frocks on one piece
frocks. They were not successful IN
this country. although we were a ma
ton OF quilters. This season, she will
introduce evening wraps made entire
ly OF quilted satin. and she will
strengthen the effect by adding capes
OF deep colored peltry
WORTH CONTINUES TRAINS
Although several of the LEADING
French designers have contributed TO
the demand for conservation of ma
terial by eliminating trains. Worth
continues to use these appendages to
evening gowns. One would feel that
Worth was not himself if he abolished
rhinestones or trains, and 1t makes
one feel quite safe that he has not
done so.
His bodices are not only covered
with rhinestones. but glisten with cut
Jet in different eolors. He uses dark
blue and beige for the evening. built
| in satin and velvet His trains are
sOnatfp1as nofpted urhicb