The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-10-18
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS ANN. a.isa,n.,.. FOR WOMEN
By ANNE GREENHOUSE
The hustle is the first definite effort in the American trade to produce silhouette that has nothing in com mon with that launched by Paris.


 New York, October 17.-For the last six weeks, the hustle has been mentioned in casual way by most of those who write fashions. Those who read this column are aware of the fact that the hustle was launched during the last days of summer; but the fact that it 1 has made such genuine sensation in the trade of women's apparel has not been dwet upon to the extent that it deserves.
 1 Remember that our designers, no matter how they depart in triffles from French gowns. always accept the Paris verdict of the silhoutte of the year. We have been doing that for over cen- | tury. So has the rest of the civilized world of women There is no reason to cavil at what has been decided in me way of clothes any more than nancierf1s cavl at the rate of gold and silver. It is established. It is accepted. And industry is carried on on that basis Paris marks out the line of tle silhouette, and America and England take liberties with it, provided they do not change it.
 | This season, however, one designer took 1t into his head to produce a sil- houette that had nothing in common with any other silhouette launced for the season of 1917-1S The narrow skirt which Paris has adopted since last March, was exaggerated into one that was pulled upward and backward un- til it became as tight as the wrappings of a mummy. The hustle was placed at the end of the spine, but it was a pllablei graceful hustle made of soft materials in many 1oopings.
 THE HUSTLE ON THE STAGE | In the interviews with those who make garments for the wholesale trade, there was undoubted satisfaction ex- pressed in the fact that there was some- thing new and startling to offer to the l trade and although few of the men in the industry of making clothes consid- cred the hustle attractive or artistic, they waived their own feelings because It was necessary for the trade to make money to keep it's workers going.
 The hustle, therefore. was taken up 1 by the Americans who turn out cos- tunes by the hundreds more than by the exclusive importers who do not lay much stress upon the products of rival concerns in their own place.
 The first fashionable appearance of the hustle was in Belascos play, Polly With Past" in which Ina Claire was starred. This young woman, with an adorable figure, wore red velvet gown 1 in the new shade, With a tight, pull back skirt and mass of red tulle heaued into paphanous hustle below the waist line The bodice was wrapped around the figure as tightly as the skirt. cross the waistline at the back at the top of the hustle, was a short belt made from diamond shaped pieces of black jet, anl at each side of the hustle was flarng Wh1Sp of black tulle that resembled para disc feathers. Miss Claire carried a lqueer black fan with this gown, one that had long stick with flaring os- trick tendrils arranged fan-wise. Black slippers with huge rhinestone buckles were added.
 I BUSTLES WITH LONG SKIRTS A few of the new costumes with this built-up drapery at the end of the spine,
 which we call a hustle for want of a better name have long, straight skirts that are not even fifth cousins to the pull-back of 1875. You can remember that in that decade, which stretched
 from 70 to 80, there were variety ot
 skirts attached to the bustle Not all
 of them were of the pull-back variety
 History promises to repeat itself ir
 that respect this winter, for the exces-
 sively narrow pull-back Is too difficult
 for the American women, except as ar
 occasional gown for the evening.
 The sketch of today shows the kind
 of skirt which a large number oi
 women are wearing. It is made of Salvis
 red taffeta. with collar, cuffs and sast
 of white taffeta- The skirt, as you ob
 serve. Is extra long for these days
 touching, as it does, the ankle iron
 and back. The hustle is made of tn,
 looped-up taffeta at the back and sides
 but the front panel is plain and mar row.
 This sash, with big bow at tho
 back, is indulged in by even the Frencl dressmakers, who, so the experts think
 were on their way to launch the bustl
 when America got the idea over first