davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23
Conservatism is Keynote of Fall Fashions;
Note the Entrance of High Collar

NEW YORK. Sept 22.-"Fashion
viii out" is a new adaptation OF an
old saying that is perfectly true
these days Of strenuousness. Fash
ion has ever shown herself 10 be an
ever-ready ally Of patriotism, and it
is with the slogan of Preparedness
that she has advanced ideas for the
fan wardrobe of the Woman Pa
triotic.
The windows along Fifth av. are
filed TO overlooking with all the
latest designs Of the fashion world.
There are smart dresses to be worn
on the street without a coat. there
are stunning coats, and there are
suits 10 please the most fastidious.
So. you see, we can all plunge into
the planning of our wardrobes with
the assurance that the styles of
early autumn are ready for our in
spectiOn.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23
Wells AND LATTICEs.

Modern progress IS making
changes everywhere. in law and Gus
tom. but no legal change has come
as yet into the life OF the Turkish
woman she must still wear a veil
on the street. and live behind lat
tees. meeting men only when they
are relatives, says the Christian
Science Monitor.
Twenty-Five years ago. the wells
were all white Now they are most
~ black Today the regulation cos
tune for any Turkish woman. over
10 years of age, consists OF flowing
robes. usually black. and a veil too
thick 20 reveal her features Some
times the whole costume is OF some
color. ar even white. but that is
rather rare Breathing under the
veil is difficult and adaptation 90
different degrees OF temperature
must be made under the robes. n az
all.
Most Turkish women greatly re-
sent being obliged 20 wear these
wells, and lift them on every pos
sible occasion, the authorities. Of
course periodically interfere. and
remind them that. II they 90 not
keep the law, they viii be arrested.
Some time since. a young Moslem
woman attended theater one even
ing in a box with some friends, hav-
ing her veil lifted. During a recess.
she also visited some other friends
in a neighboring box; the next day
she was arrested, and was suisse
quently exiled.
No Moslem women are allowed 20
enter hotels. or 10 attend public en-
tertainments where men are pres
ent. Properly clad. however IN the
regulation costume. a Moslem wom-
an may go anywhere IA the streets.
even alone. and she IS free 10 walk
or sit in the parks. The costume is
a perfect diguise and in the rough
est part OF the city no one would
dare TO accost or modest a AIoslem
woman.
Release from the wells, even II not
granted by law. may result from
economic changes. for Moslam wom-
en-, like those OF other lands. are
now crowding into many occupa-
tions not before open 10 them. They
are 10 be found in the public tele-
phone Offices. in the postofice and
elsewhere; and IL goes without say
ing that they cannot work wearing
wells.
All Turkish houses have lattices I'm
the windows OF the rooms occupied
by women, but there are some homes
now, among the better classes. where
the lady Of the house is compare
lively free, even holding weekly re-
ceptions which men may attend
When Moslem woman travels i'm
Europe she removes her veil at the
frontier Of Turkey and dresses her
self in a European costume. max
ing the change back again when she
returns home.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23
speCtiOn,

Conservation is the keynote, con-
servatism developed TO the nth de
gree. A charming example was a
blue serge and satin dress I saw the
other day. The narrow skirt was Of
satin. with a tunic Of the serge
slashed in the front. Instead of a
collar, there was a band of white
Hercules braid following the line of
the surplice closing. This square
meshed braid takes the exact shape
of the bias collar, making it espe-
cially suitable for this use.
side Drapcry Versus Straight
silhouette.
The side drapery and the straight
silhouette are still battling for SUI
premacy. The long tunic is partic-
ularly smart for the walking cos
tune. The beige serge dress illus
trated here is stunning, each detail
being so carefully worked out as to
make a perfect whole. The long
tight sleeves are quite a feature this
autumn. The novel shaping Of the
collar, the use Of tassels instead of
buttons, and the touch of embroid-
cry on the skirt, all make for that
distinction so eagerly sought by the
woman of taste.
Heroes and COlOrings.
Just at present there is quite a
vogue in Paris for naming tie suits
and dresses after prominent Amer
leans Wilson, Pershing, Roosevelt.
and Lincoln have all been so hon
I Il
creed by fashion they are quite ir-
resistible Gray. in every shade. is
I fashionable. Smoke. mist, steel.
chinchilla and the gray browns. such
as castor and beaver. are the domin-
ating colors for street costumes.
Munition gray. rust brown, and terra
Gotta are especially smart. I saw
charming dress. at one Of the big
hotels the other evening. Of cham
pagne-colored jersey cloth com bined
with raven-blue satin. Indeed, the
softness Of the vivid autumn color
ings is one Of the most striking
things about the present mode. OF
/ course, our national colors are dis
played everywhere. but not so OBJ
viously as at first. We are USING a
great many of the different shades
OF red and blue. so that one need
, not go dressed as the American flag
in order 10 show ones colors."
Beads and More Beads.
Everything is beaded, from slip
pers 10 hats and back again. 1t is
not really surprising. for the effect
gained by a handful Of beads in har-
mOnious colorings against a somber
BACKGROUND is delightful Tube
shaped beads are the latest arrivals
Sometimes the formality OF a belt is
entirely dispensed with. these tube
shaped beads Stimulating a belt and
buckle. Iridescent beads. bronze
green and green purple, made a sim
pie little frock Of dull green crepe
de chine quite marvellous Braiding
and embroidery promise 70 play as
important a part in the scheme Of
things this year as last.
The All-blaCk Costume.
Beige is being worn for street cos
tunes almost as much as the ever
popular blue. Favorite com bina-
tions are navy blue or black and
beige. All-white dresses are also
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23
"Only a Shower. "
BY Ada Patterson.

Never mind. It's only a shower"
He was a slender. high shouldered
young man with a somewhat sullen
face. She was a girl with eyes Of
the clear blue Of the sky in June
and a mouth that laughed often and
showed even rows of strong white
teeth. An impulsive midsummer
shower was falling upon them. It
found them far from a base of UNI
brella supplies. IL drenched the
bunch Of forget-me-nots and the
fresh blue ribbon on her hat It
wilted its straw brim. II spread
broad, temporary stains on her one
piece gown of cool blue linen. Wom-
cat hates wet fur. But she turned
her young face toward the sky and
laughed. Some big raindrops fell
into her mouth and she laughed the
more. The young man turned up his
coat collar. The muscles of his sal
low face dropped into a scowl.
She turned her laughing face to-
ward him, saw the scowl and said:
Never mind. It's only a shower"
Fortunate will that young man be
if he wins the girl for wife. For
whenever he turns up his coat col
lar against the rain, and scowls at a
storm Of life, she Will be beside him
and will say: Never mind. 1t is
only a shower"
When hard luck comes he will
think that it has come to stay. That
d ho ha - - FOL
muscles and sallow faces. But she
will turn her bright face upward to
scan the sky and will say: Never
mind. 1t is only a shower"
1 know a village banker who has
such a wife. When crops are bad
in their county. and it looks as
though farmers would not be able
TO pay their notes, the banker goes
home with a dropping face. He
lunches his shoulders as though he
expects a downpour of rain, accom-
panied by thunder and lightning,
with a strong probability that the
will strike him-with fatal
results. But he goes back TO the
bank in a brighter mood. Because
his wife has poured his coffee and
passed his plate Of chicken and 20
tatoes with an accompaniment OF
cherry remarks.
"Milly and l have lived together
for Is years and I've never heard
a complaint from her. I guess
never will" says the taciturn man.
Never mind. It's only a shower"
With a companion at his elbow TO
repeat these words a man should
march forward with few and short
halts If he tires in the march the
sunny spirit will inspire him with
new strength and courage. If he
stumbles she will help him TO his
feet. The sun is always shining in
the home of a man who has such a
wife.
When the long march is ending, |
when he has dropped his load and is
peering into the d mess that is fast
the re A. her voice will /
give him courage for the last uncer- /
tain steps.
Her voice may be shaken with |
sobs. 1t may be a thread of a /
voice, a whisper, but he will be |
stronger for hearing her say: Never !
mind, dear. It's only a shower |
And l will join you soon where the !
sun always shines"
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23
Buyr g Undyed Woods and Silks

Buying all her woods and silks
and cottons not only undyed. but
unbleached as well. and then dye
ing them over and over until she
succeeds in getting Just precisely
the shade and effect she wishes, is
part of the work which one design
er Of interior decorations and cos
tunes, too, has taken upon herself.
And then, when she succeeds in eff
fecting precisely the desired COM
bination of color and fabric. she
makes the most attractive rugs and
wall hangings. coverlets for bed or
couch, pillow tops, Greek costumes,
evening cloaks, scarfs-almost any
thing that one might desire.
Sometimes, Of course. / find a
piece of silk or some other fabric
that is already just the color that
want; in that case, 1 buy il. It
would be foolish to go to all the
work and trouble of dyeing it my
self" said Miss Amy Mali Hicks. It
is an odd little place, that work
shop. It's owner refuses to charac-
terize it by the more popular-in
that regiOn-term, studio. When
one is inside, one has the feeling of
being in one of those fascinating
little houses belonging to seafaring
folk, away up on the Maine coast,
if not actually in a ships cabin it
self And the decorations of the
room are cleverIy arranged TO
heighten just that impression. Shells
and seaweed and starfsh are dis
tributed on narrow shelves behind
the tiny, snall-paned window, with
here and there a blue glass vase of
marigOlds, such as might have been
picked in any seashore garden.
About the walls are arranged
some of the rugs which this artist
designer and her helpers have been
making lately. Miss Hicks herself
is an authority on rugs and these.
as one may well suppose, are de-
cidedly interesting. For instance,
there's that rose-colored one-such
a beautiful patch of soft warm color
as It would make on the floor of a
rose and white rOOml 1t is not very
large and it is Noblong. the back
ground of the rose in solid and eX-
quisite color, and the oval center
white with a conventional basket of
flowers in soft bufs and browns. for
decoration. There is a similar one
in old blue which is even lovelier, if
that is possible, and another in buff.
Upon one wall hangs a huge wooden
hooked rug in Oriental colorings,
with a decidedly Oriental feeling
about its eastern garden palms and
flowers. in soft. dull blue and green
and yellow and rose. Here and
there a round braided rug adds to
the honey atmosphere of the eX-
hibitiOn going on so informally She
does not design many of these, how
ever, Miss Hicks remarked, because
so many are made commercially
that there is no object in doing so,
unless to carry out some definite
color scheme.
Among the most interesting Of the
new things TO be seen were some
porch lights. Many people. inter
ested enough in the lighting ar
rangements within their homes. are
contented with just being able to see
we'll out of doors on their verandas.
They do not bother about artistic
fixtures out there; it simply does not
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23

occur TO them. Now. however. that
porch furniture is attracting so
much attention. il is time for the
lighting scheme 20 follow suit. So
evidently, thinks this artist. for she
has concocted some very attractive
arrangements. These are shallow.
baskets which in shape resemble.
somewhat, Chinese pagodas. They
are lacquered and adorned with
Chinese tassels, three in all. and are
attached to the ceiling by mere
Chinese cords and tassels. These
shades are pleasing additions 10 any
porch httings and difuse the light
without dissipating it. in a satisfac-
tory fashion.
A new idea in house lighting also
indirect. is very simple one-noth-
ing, in fact. but a disk of cream
colored or pale gold silk. The silk
is shirred in TO the center and the
edge is finished of with narrow
gold lace. A series Of these. so this
designer explained, arranged close
to the ceiling Of a room. would not
be particularly noticeable, that is
would not attract undue attention TO
themselves, but would shed a de
lightful glow Of light throughout the
apartment A gold-colored thin silk
candle shade, lined with orange-col-
ored silk and edged about with mar
row gold lace, made an attractive
screen for a wall light.
Up a narrow winding little flight
of stairs was the dye room, another
tiny ships cabin apartment This
not being a dyeing day, the pretty
earthenware bowls used ordinarily
for that purpose were doing duty as
flower holders In the low room
beyond. with it's quaint old splint-
bOttOmed chairs and chests of
drawers, were costumes and scarfs
and hangings of most wonderful
colorings. Color after color melted
into each other with perfect har-
mony.
There was one patriotic scarf, as
its designer called IT, long strip
of soft shimmering silk. the red of
one side and the blue Of the other
blending and melting into the white
of the center. The ends were fin
ished like those Of a banner. with
narrow gold fringe. A flowing
gown Of black and white striped
chiffon seemed 10 have all the colors
of the rainbow floating mistily about
il. More scarfs and flowing gowns,
draperies of crepes and chifons,
showed beautiful shadow dyeing.
the results of hours spent with dyes
of all sorts in the little room next
door.
Some OF the silks are tie dyed.
that is, subjected 10 that ancient
process of being tied in knots and
then dipped into the dye. the process
being repeated until the chosen de
sign is accomplished. Some few
are stenciled, while others are
adorned with batik one japanese
costume had an exquisite pussy will
low design, done by the batik pro
cess. Just by way Of variety, a gray
blue heavy linen garden smok, hang
ing near by, was Ornamented in old
fashioned patchwork style, in CON
ventional design of several colors.
Some of the lovely things are
achieved by. a judiciOus admixture
of various methods of ornamental
ton. one word more about these
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23

tie-dyed things. One couch or bed
cover Of blue and another of a rose
colored cotton fabric bore a conven-
tional pattern, all over and a wide
border. in white produced by this
ancient method, and the effect was
most pleasing. And this is some
thing that the artistic woman az
home, with time 20 be her own in
terror decorator. can initiate with
ease
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23

very popular Made on youthful
lines they are as becoming and prop
er for the debutante as for her
mother. OF course, black satin,
Georgette crepe and velvet will be
worn a great deal this winter for the
more dressy costumes. The black
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23

yellow chamois gloves with heavy
stitching will brighten up the street
frock for early fail wear.
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-09-23

BUTTERFLY LUNCHEON SET.
These three block patterns are
for luncheon set; the largest but
terfy 20 be inserted in the corners
Of the luncheon cloth; the medium
butterfly in the tray cloth. scarf and
serving cloth; and the small one IN
the napkins. When the butterflies
have been placed on the various
pieces the remaining outside edges
and cloth ere finished with a single
crochet and picot edge. Mercerized
crochet cotton No. so Is used.
EDITH II. OWEN.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
u. S. WILL CUT
PACKERS PROFITS

CHICAGO. Nov. 23.-Packers' profits
from SO to SO per cent will be cut 10
ton or eleven per cent by the govern
ment. This includes the profit on b.
products from which the greatest
source Of revenue is derived by the
industry. This was forecast authori-
tatively today following a conference
between Joseph Patton. head of the
meal committee Of the food admins
traton, and representatives Of the bu-
reau Of markets Of the United states
department OF agriculture. Patton
viii hold a final meeting with the
packers late today. lie was expected
10 announce the governments ultf-
matum Immediately after this session.
Another important step to be under
taken by the government will be the
division Of packers into two classes
2 he first class. which VIII include tho
Swifts. Armours and three Others. win
be called upto the fiji the majority af
tho war orders OF this and the allied
governments. To the smaller NOM
bers viii fall the task OF supplying
meats to the American public Ad-
ditionaI regulations VIII he made as
arises
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
YANKS GET
RE Y |: n GE.

AMERICAN FIELD HEADQUAR-
TIERS IN FRANCE. Nov. 23.-American
artillerymen repaid in fvefoId meas
ure the single German she'll which
struck an American regimental head
quarters early this week
As a reprisal the Americans on the
day following and at exactly the same
hour sent five shells bursting into a
certain village in the German lines.
Both the village containing the
American commanders headquarters
and the town back of the German lines
have hitherto enjoyed comparative i'm
munity from shening, both sides ap-
parently having Joined in an unwritten
agreement to this end. The Germans
were the first to break this under
standing
Along the American sector the Ger
mans are no longer running chances
Of patrol encounters. American re-
connoitering parties have complete
control Of no mans land at night The
night stalking game is. one in which
the American soldiers excel. according
to their French comrades.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
LAUNDRYMEN BLUE
AS THEIR BLUING

Laundrymen from Gary, Hammond
Whiting. East Chicago and Indiana
Harbor journeyed over the state line to
Pullman last evening, where they at
tended the Calumet Laundrymen's as
sociation and listened to tales of the
dire days that have beset the business.
1t was agreed that:
The way the war is turning employees
into soldiers is making it tough sled
cling for the laundries
That the wave OF economy OF many
women who have taken TO doing wash
ing isn't helping things.
That some of the hotel and restaur-
ant owners want to laundryize their
own business.
That in this region. where there are
so many foreigners. the foreign-born
people must be educated to learn that
the Chinese aren't the only people on
earth, who can run laundries.
There was much gratifcation ex-
pressed, however, that the industry had
given Uncle Sam so many soldiers The
next meeting will be held in two weeks
G. NJ. Larry Of the Double L laundry of
Gary. veteran in the business. is head
of the association.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
Cd.
MEN GET
HONORS
Ten Lake County Soldiers
in Indiana Officers Train
ing Camp at Fort Benja-
min Harrison Win Com
missions.
TIMES BUREAU,
AT STATE CAPITAL.

INDIANAPOLIS. IND. Nov. a.
Ranking first IN a company of % Ed
ward schottler. the Hammond lawyer
received a commission as captain in the
second officers training camp at Fort
Benjamin Harrisom Floyd Murray of
East Chicago ranked ninth in COM
pany of 122 and was commissioned first
lieutenant of infantry
Other Lake county men who were
commissioned are Barret. second lieu
tenant, and Johnson, second lieutenant.
in regular army.
Slick of Cary was commissioned sec
ond lieutenant of infantry and Kuss of
Gary the same. Stone Of Crown Point
was made second lieutenant aviation
signal corps and Payne OF East Chicago
second lieutenant provisional L. S.
regular army. Hughes of Whiting was
made first lieutenant signal corps avia-
tion.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
WELL, A LOT OF
FRITzIES WERE
SOME SURPRISED

Ben Hopkins. son Of Mr. and Mrs.
George Hopkins, is ogden street, Ham
mond. is more than likely at the fight
ing front in France with one Of the
mortar batteries that are supporting
the first unit Of United States soldiers
to engage in the great struggle for de
mocracy.
In his letters to his mother and sis
ter Private Ben hasn't been able 70
say so but he indicates as much, and
moreover he apparently had knowledge
of the impending drive on the west
front for he saws: I think something
is going to happen in the next month
that is going to surprise a lot of peo-
pie but I am unable 10 tell what it is.
Maybe you will hear about it before
you receive this letter"
He states that he would be glad to
get any kind OF American tobacco.
This French tobacco is awful" adds
Ben.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
BY ED L. KEEN

(Unt7ed Press STAFF Correspondent.)
LONDON. Nov. 23--The Germans be-
gan stripping Cambria of its military
stores today as the British and Teuton
armies were locked in violent grips
less than three miles from the city's
outskirts
The full strength Of heavy German
reinforcemenrs was felt against the
new British lines today But General
Byngs men had consolidated and dug
in practically every inch of the re-
claimed ground and repelled counter
attacks. At only one point. Fontaine
Notre Dame, were the Boches able to
dull the edge Of the British cutting
knife. according to Field Marshal Haig.
There they captured the village. vio-
lent fighting from this sector was re-
ported late last night
Cambrai is finished as German
depot 1t is now easily within range
Of British field artillery and conse-
ouently untentable for the enemy as q
supply base. at least. Cambrai has
long served as an important distribut-
ing depot for munitions, troops and
supplies of every character.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
ALL {. D. P.
MAYORS At
LOVE FEAST
Mayors Elect Dan Brown of
Hammond, Mccormack of
East Chicago, Hodges of
Gary and Hayes of Crown
Point at Jollification.

One Of the largest. most jubilant and
successful republican Qualifications
ever held in Lake county was staged
last night al the Auditorium. Indiana
Harbor when the precinct committee
men Of the county invited their friends
to partake of luncheon and celebrate
with them the republican successes in
this district.
It was an indication OF an era o.
universal good feeling in this county
such as has not been felt in republican
ranks for many years. The primaries
and elections We're held in the main
without occasioning am serious rup-
gires n the ranks and Lake county
bids fair To present at the next national
election ono of the strongest republf-
can organizations thai It has known
for years.
T. Miles Norton. county chairman.
presided at the meeting and through
hls diplomacy and gcnevaIship the
program and everything pertaining to
i went Off IN very smooth and sat
isfactorv mann III
1t was Q significant gathering in
tnat the rs2r ei-can nayors-olect from
tContnued on page two
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1917-11-23
tBy United Press Cablegraru. D
w. T. FORREST.

WITH THE FRENCH ARMIES IN
THE FIELD, Nov. ga friendly fog
which steamed mp opportunity gave the
French troops a chance for a surprise
blow Wednesday that Rocked another
chunk out of the Germans hold on
northern France. The attack was
against the western end OF the Cheraine
des Danes. The French advance, 1t
was estat shed today capture. he last
cf the enemy observation points in the
Chenline des Danes sector. The victory
also wiped out q troublesome salient
from which the Germans had been har-
RAISING tha French lines.