davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

been foreseen that the short skirts had
been grossly exaggerated and vul-
CARRIED and as a matter of course,
they must be heightened as protest.
If only fashions could be kept at their
best what very charming results would
be obtained, but in democratic land
where every form Of sartorial restric-
tion is forbidden we may look for all
sorts Of absurdities and exaggerations
which not infrequently sound the doom
Of really good fashion.
There are great many materials
offered for Spring gowns and for Spring
suits, but the wool Jersey is 80 charming
and such a favorite that it seems to
cry out for special mention. 1t makes
most satisfactory coat suits, It is
charming for what we know as the
one-piece gowns while it is admirable
for sports wear, in fact there are a
great many fabrics that can be util.
ized for the different needs Of the day
q Trimmings are to very great extent
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

made from contrasting materials, SOU
tache braid and embroideries. Sou
tache braid is lavishly used and is very
handsome on costumes of many sorts.
1t is simple, too, and comes easily
within every woman's reach. Every
form Of embroidery is in vogue. Even
the simple running or darning stitch
is used to make really superb color
effects.
There never was time when it was
so easy for the home sewer to create
trimmings. The embroidery used is
not of an intricate or difficult sort
and it is only necessary to be patient
and painstaking to get perfectly satis-
factory results. For the running or
darning stitch. you can use any braid
Ing design If you work through tissue
paper and tear the paper away when
the work is done. Sometimes one sees
this work done with the under and
over stitches of equal length, but per-
haps the more effective method is to
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

BY May Manton

md the crepes may fairly be said to
achieve the result.
The tunic gown that is shown is
made of our old friend and standby,
French serge with trimming Of satin.
It is thoroughly useful garment for
the late Winter and for between sea-
sons, and, indeed, to wear throughout
the Spring and Summer, for there are
numberless cold days and we have
storms that will send the temperature
down even in July. and to have such
costume as this on the wardrobe
means real comfort when the occasion
arises, while for the immediate need,
it is ideal. We have a great many
better materials but nothing ever
really outranks serge for general utility
and service. This particular tunic is
really cut with the bodice portion and
skirt together, and only the girdle
holds it so that it is a very simple
garment as well as very smart one.
The serge of today is not the serge of
yesterday. 1t is much finer, softer,
more pliable material and consequently
twill be extensively used for garments
of this sort during the warmer season.
1t is very beautiful fabric and it has
lost none of its durability, conse-
quently, it is of inestimable value.
The gown at the upper right is made
of novelty silk and wool material
that is exceedingly pretty for after
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

I HOSIERY designed for sports
wear, made of Jersey silk such
as used for sweaters, showing
vertical stripes Of contrasting color.
A great variety Of separate sailor
collars for wear with sports coats and
sports blouses. Some are made Of
khaki-kool and Of crepe de chine, some
are white embroidered, others are
white with borders Of colored stripes,
and others, again, are Of color with
striped trimming.
A great variety Of attractive vests
Tor wear under sports coats. Dainty
ones are of sheer organdy in white,
blue, pink and lavender with high
standing collars and with very small
lapels. The decoration is hand en-
broidery.
Little wrist bags in which the barrel
effect is introduced. They are made
with plain foundations, much ruffled,
and with steel frames that give the
desired outline.
Separate skirts for sports and general
country wear that are made of plain
or Of striped material perfectly straight
either gathered or laid in loose plaits
at the belt, but with big pockets and
wide slightly draped girdles, all Of the
material.
A new silk Of the pussy willow order
that is ideal for blouses, for simple
gowns and for underwear. 1t is to be
had in white and in flesh color.
Exquisite afternoon gowns Of white
BRUSSELS net that are hand embroid-
cred in the raised French style but
with simple designs. They are made
after the chemise model and worn
over slips of soft silk, some white, some
flesh color.
Exceedingly smart separate skirts
made of checked wool material with
spats to match, the checks, as a
matter OF course, being small.
Separate skirts of silk jersey that are
cut straight and arranged over belts
to form little outstanding frills over
the blouses that make a pretty finish.
They show pockets that also are edged
with frills.
Golf costumes of the real sturdy
ser'iceabie sort, of brown tweed that
are trimmed with leather in lighter
shade.
Sports blouses of natural colored
pongee with big sailor collars and ties
In bright colors.
Exceedingly dainty night gowns
and combination under garments that
are made of fine white organdy, the
only trimming being frilis of the same
and hand shocking
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30
Novelties Seen in
The New York Shops

Entirely new woman's hosiery made
with turned over ribbed tops beneath
which round elastic garters are de-
signed to be worn. They are we'll
liked for bathing and for golf and for
general sports wear, and are shown in
attractive stripes and colors.
Very dainty and attractive slp-over
blouses of Georgette designed to be
worn with skirts Of sports satin.
A genuine sports costume made
with skirt of white jersey caught in
plaits at the bottom by green bands to
produce the barrel effect, but with the
bands so arranged that they can be
loosened if the wearer wants greater
freedom. The blouse is in MILDLY
style with square neck and short
sleeves and of green trimmed with
white.
Sports silks showing stenciled de-
signs that are applied by hand. As
yet they are exclusive and distinctive
and allow opportunity for individual
effects.
Top coats showing machine stitching
handled with great cleverness and pro-
ducing novel and attractive results.
A fine Renaissance scroll in blue on a
pompeian red sergeis handsome, garnet
stitching in straight rows is seen on a
mustard coat, grey on navy blue, etc.
The work is done in coarse chain ma
chine stitching that is simple and
effective.
New Shantung pongee with cra-
vanette finish which will be ideal for
summer motor coats and purposes of
the sort.
Sports coats with large collars, deep
cuffs and sash ends that are painted,
some in such combinations as gold
and royal blue.
White corduroy for outing costumes
that shows conventionalized figures
printed in bright and even vivid
colors.
Very lovely Summer gowns that are
made Of batiste or organdy combined
with such simple silks as crepe de
chine, Georgette and the like.
Lovely lingerie gowns that are made
Of organdy and batiste in pale blue,
pink and mauve and even saffron
color.
Attractive sashes OF soft silks in
stripes showing the antique or faded
colors. They are made on the bias
and are double, finished with tasseIs,
and designed to be worn with blouses
and separate skirts of white. The,
faded or antique colors, by the. way. !
are constantly gaining in favor and
afford something Of protest against
the over vivid hues in the distinctly
sports materials.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

nLAITS and tunics make two very
important features of the Spring
styles. We will wear number
less plated gowns and plated skirts
and they are very apt to be becoming.
We also will wear great variety Of
tunics both for afternoon and for
evening costumes and these tunics
very often will be draped to give
breadth while the skirt beneath is
narrow. We are not going to be hob
bled, or we hope we are not going to
be hobbled. There is very great
tendency toward the return to narrow
skirts and straight lines but it is modi-
fed, Of course, because we cannot
repeat anything in fashions. The
tunics give breadth to the figure while,
nevertheless, skirts are narrower and
also they are longer. Happily, we are
not likely to see two inches of trans
parent hosiery above the high shoes
when the really smart costumes Of the
Spring are donned. 1t might have
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

THE Spring and Summer of 1917
promise to be interesting for the
student Of textiles as well asfor
fashions generally. We have heard SO
much about shortage Of this and Of
that and Of difficulties with dyes, that
it is bit amazing to find the counters
spread with wonderful fabrics and ex-
quisite colors, yet such is the fact.
Undoubtedly, it is season of silk
and there are great many commercial
reasons to be found back of that fact,
but there are cottons and linens that
are really wonderful in color and in
quality. Three of the gowns that are
shown in the illustration above are
made of crepe de chine and the pro-
portion serves to illustrate the favor
in which that particular silk is held.
1t is really an ideal fabric, it takes
beautiful and graceful lines. it is
durable and it washes well. Long ago
women learned that it was ideal for
underwear. During this coming sea-
son it will be worn for gowns of all sorts
and even for coat suits. You can make
a sports costume of crepe de chine if
you choose color and treat it rightly
and you can make charming dinner
gown of the same material if you are
wise enough to let the design and the
color suit that use. When you COM
bine utility with smartness and with
charm you have a really perfect fabric,
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

noon wear. That garment introduces
the back closing in the blouse which is
to be found in many of the new models,
also the round neck with the long
sleeves. 1t is very fashionable COM
bination and very pretty one when
ever it is becoming. There is pretty
full skirt worn with it. If you like, you
can use this blouse for thinner ma
terial and wear it over a heavier skirt.
1t would be pretty made of crepe de
chine, for example. embroidered with
little soutache or with beads to wear
over silk skirt or over a wool skirt.
Peplum blouses Of all sorts are to be
exceedingly smart and they are very
generally utilized in Just this way.
The costume at the extreme right
is ms/ Of the Shantung that promises
to have such extended favor. 1t is
oyster white in color and it is trimmed
with the same material that shows
rather bright colors on the Persian
order and the combination is a very
beautiful one as we'll as very fash
ionable one. Shantung is being
utilized to great extent by the very
best dressmakers and it may be
counted upon to be smart throughout
the season. In place of the applied
trimming you could of course use en-
broidery or braiding of soutache to
get good effect. This silk could be in
the same or in contrasting color.
e3o7 Over-Dress in Redingote Style,
"a to "A bust. Price IS cents.
o3I4 Two-Piece Skirt, "a to "a waist.
Price 10 cents.
oI43 Russian Blouse. "a to AZ bust.
Price Is cents.
oI3o Two or Three-Piece Skirt,
"a to 80 waist. Price IS cents.
9I3I Gathered Blouse, "a to AZ bust.
Price IS cents.
oI33 Flounced Skirt, "a to 80 waist.
Price IS cents.
o3I8 Blouse with Round or High Neck.
Price IS cents.
o747 Four Gored Skirt "a to 32 waist.
Price Is cents.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

now. The border on the edges con-
sists Of alternating rows of beads or of
French knots or of the running stitch,
as you like. There are two sides to the
bag that require to be embroidered
and the design includes the outline.
The lining should be cut the same as
the outside and the pockets ,sewed to
it, then the two portions of the bag
sewed together to convenient depth.
Steel beads on black make a very
handsome effect and fashionable
effect. Jet is pretty on black or jet
is very smart on white. If French
knots are used, variety of materials .
will be appropriate for the bag itself.
For a summer costume, linen would be
pretty with the embroidery done in
any preferred color. 4
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

take long stitch over and short one
under. Beads, too, can be used over
any braiding or any embroidery de-
sign If the paper is employed. and very
often one sees very wonderful combi.
nations of metal braid with beads.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

May Manton Patterns for these De-
signs may be obtained by sending price
in coin or stamps for each pattern
wanted to the Fa.hion Department d
this paper.
Fashion Dept.
Centlemens--
enclose. ...... for which send M
the following pattern:
Send Pattern NO.. Size; -.
Send Pattern No.. ....... Size. RI
To (Name). -.
Street streetandNo................... and No. -.
City. ............ City. ......
Perth Amboy evening news., 1917-03-30

o2o7 Blouse with or without Peplum,
"a to AZ bust. Price IS cents.
92o2 Two-Piece Skirt with Tunic,
"a to 81 waist. Price Is cents.
9273 Bodice with Tunic, 81 to 42 bust.
Price Is cents.
o3I4 Two-Piece Skirt, ~ to "a waist.
Price 10 cents.
s7e2 One-Piece Gown with Plaits,
"a to ~ bust. Price 10 cents.
92o7 Surplice. Bodice, 81 to AZ bust.
Price IS cents.
9272 Skirt with Tunic, "a to 81 waist.
l'rice IS cents.
92o5 Long Wasted Gown, "a to 40
bust. Price is cents.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
THOMAS STEVENS

Gainesville, Aug. 28.-Mr. Thomas
Stevens, one of Gainesville's well
known and estimable citizens, passed
away Monday afternoon at o'clock
at his home in this city of paralysis
and his death has cast gloom over
the entire city, for he had many
friends and acquaintance. Mr.. Stew
ems was born in London, England,
and was about 40 years of age. He
came to Gainesville with the English
colony about thirty years ago. For
more than eighteen years he held the
position of general bookkeeper in the
First National Bank. He gave up this
position about three years ago on ac-
count of failing health. He was mar
ried to Miss Nora Fields, an English
lady, in New York, whom he met in
Gainesville, and his wife and two
young sons survive him and his host
of friends deeply sympathize with
his sorrowing family. The funeral
was held this afternoon from the
family residence at o'clock and the
service was conducted by Rev. G. A.
Ottmann of Ocala. Interment was
made in Evergreen cemetery, the
casket being covered with many beau
tiful floral tributes.-Times- Union.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
A. c. L. SCHEDULE

Trains Of the Atlantic Coast Line
will arrive and depart in Ocaia at the
following times:
Nc. 1G, Leesburg 70 Jacksonville
$40 a. m.
No, Isl, Ocala to Wilcox, Monday
Wednesday and Friday, $40 a. m.
No. 80, Ocala to Lakeland lSunny
Jim), Tuesday. Thursday and Satur.
lay. $40 a. m
No. 141, Wilcox, Gainesville anc
Palatka to OcaIa, 1l:15 a. m.
No. 40, st. Petersburg to Jackson.
,i!.s, 12:54-1:14 p. m.
No, AZ. Hnmosassa to Ocala, 1:Ot
Q. m
No, 49, Ocals to Homosassa, 2:2:
2 m.
No. IS, jacksonville to St Peters.
burg, 2:36-2:40 p m.
No. 140, Ocala to PaIatka, Gaines.
vile and Wilcox, 4:10 p. N.
No. 9, Jacksonville to Leesburg
s % p. m.
No. 81, Lakeland to Ocals. Sunny.
;irn), Tuesday. Thursday and Satur.
"a 9.:u y. Il
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
APPEALS AGAINST
CLAIMS FOR EXEMPTION

Notes of claim of appeal by per
son authorized under section 27, rules
and regulations, June 80, 1917, by the
provost marshal general TO take an
appeal from the decision of a local
board
To the District Board for the
Southern District of Florida, Tampa,
Fla: The provost marshal general,
acting through w. E. Smith, Ocala,
Fla, hereby gives notice that on the
18th day of August, 1917, he filed
with the local board for the county of
Marion, state of Florida, Ocala, Fla,
claim of appeal to your honorable
board from the decision of said local
board allowing the claim of discharge
filed by or in request of:
Arthur Jackson, Eustis.
Willie Richardson, Irvine.
Sam Hall, Fairfield.
Dorries Barber, Fairfield.
! Elliot Hutson, Lynne.
James A. Butterfeld, Ocala.
James L. Thomas, Santos.
Leon Daymon, Santos.
Henry w. Staiger, Ocklawaha.
| Marion F. Wagner, Boardman.
! George Spencer, Belleview.
Oscar A. Jennings, Ocala.
Luther NJ. Mershon, Ocala.
Robert L. Martin, Center Hill.
Ed Tuggerson, Spar.
Caspar L. Young, Ocala.
Harley A. Reynolds, Ocala.
Joe H. Elkins, Summerfield.
Ira A. Hector, Summerfield.
Jiles A. Markham, Romeo.
James Wilson, West Palm Beach.
| Provost Marshal General,
By w. E. Smith.
Ocala, Fla, August %, 1917.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
SMALL FARM WANTED

| want to rent farm of Is acres
available for cultivation. l want the
farm for one or three years and it is
not necessary for the entire tract to
be in one body, if close together. If
situated close to Ocala. dwelling
house would not be necessary. Want
good land and good fencing. Address
James Trottman, care Star office,
Ocala, Fla. 8-25-2t* 8-31-1t*w
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
SOUTHERN TIRES

By testing out great number OF
tires in actual road service the South
ern Tire and Rubber company has
discovered that shorte cure with
less heat units will build tire almost
proof against the summer heat of
this climate. Tests made and built
to in cooler climates haven't the ad-
vantage of this testing. This is the
cause of an excessive amount of tire
trouble in extreme hot weather Buy
Southerns. Sold by fuckers Garage
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
OCALA SOCIAL AFFAIRS
CONTINUED from Third Page,
Bright

Mr.. and Mrs. r. A Bright, former
ly Of this city, but now of Charlotte,
Il. c., announce the marriage of their
daughter, Ona Frances, to Mr.. George
Barney Warner, of Tampa, Saturday
evening, August 25, Charlotte, n. c.
The wedding took place at the home
of the brides parents, and the cere-
mony, which was witnessed by rela-
tives and friends of the couple, was
performed by Rev. Dr. Mari, of Trim
ity Methodist church, of Charlotte
Times Union.
Mrs. Warner made her home in
Ocala for several years and has
many friends here. Mr.. and Mrs. E
c. Rawls, formerly of Ocala, were
present at the wedding. Mr.. and Mrs
Warner spent several days in Atlanta
and Jacksonville with friends and are
now at home on Hills avenue, Tampa
The soldiers and their friends are
looking forward with pleasant antic-
ipation to the entertainment at the
Ocala House tomorrow evening. A
good many of the folks from the
country are expected in town tomor-
row and most of them will be at the
dance. A general good time is ex-
pected.
Miss Mary Connor expects to leave
about October l to teach music al
New Smyrna. The public school pat
rons of that enterprising town have
wisely decided to have music taught
their children, and have made a wise
choice in selecting Miss Connor for .
teacher.
Mr.. l. U. Forbes. formerly with the
H. B. Masters Co., in the shoe de.
partment, left on the 18th for At
lanta, from where he will be sent tt
the navy, going into the hospita
corps. Mr.. Forbes home is at An
thony, but he has made his home fol
several years in Ocala, where he has
many friends.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
TIRES FOR SERVICE

Southern Tires have thicker treads
than any other tires sold at the price
Thick treads give longer wearing ser
vice at road contact and protect you
while en- tour from any annoying
punctures. A short nail that will
puncture the average tire will not
reach the tube of Southern on &C
count of its extra thick tread. Sold by
fuckers Garage. 24-6t
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
SOUTHERN TIRES

Are the first manufactured in the
South. The manufacturers have spent
two years testing out and perfecting
them. They are as good as any made
regardless of the price asked. They
are built of southern grown long sta
pie Sea Island cotton which in turn
is woven by a southern cotton mill
and built in a southern tire factory.
Give the South a chance. Try them.
Sold by Edward Tucker. 24-6t
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

The camp at Macon for the Florida,
Georgia and Alabama national
guardsmen is described on another
page. 1t is not known when the
troops will go to this camp, but prob
sbly not for two weeks yet. 1t is not
known where the Florida men of the
new army will train. They were as
signed to Columbia, but that arrange
ment has been broken up. Their most
likely training place is Camp Gordon
near Atlanta.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

A card from DIR. Guy Parrish in
Lakeland states that he has just
been awarded a commission as Sec
ond lieutenant in the United States
army, veterinary department.. He has
been in Canada for some months, but
was recently released from the Can
adian army to join Uncle Sans
troops.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Country style smoked sausage,
smoked pork sausage, sausage un-
smoked, Holsteiner sausage, Salomi
sausage, frankfurters All in castings.
Order today while the stock is fresh.
o. X. Teapot Grocery. Phones 1914.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
ODD FELLOWS

Tulula Lodge No. %, l. o. o. F.,
meets every Tuesday evening in the
Odd Fellows hall on the third floor of
the Star Office building at s O'Clock
promptly. A warm welcome always
extended to visiting brothers.
Oscar Andrews, n. G.
W. L. Colbert, Secretary.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Country style smoked sausage,
smoked pork sausage, sausage un-
smoked, Holsteiner sausage, Salomi
sausage, frankfurters. All in castings.
Order today while the stock is fresh.
o. K. Teapot Grocery. Phones 1914.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
OCALA LODGE NO. 2s6, B.P. O. Z.

Ocala Lodge No. 2s6, Benevolent
and Protective Order of Elks, meets
the second and fourth Tuesday even
ings in each month. Visiting breth-
rem always welcome. Club house oppo-
site postoffice, east side.
C. W. Hunter, E. R.
e. j. Crook, Secretary.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Z have received letter from Mr..
f. Martin, replying to the allega-
tions made against him in Sheriff
Galloway's letter to the governor,
which was printed in yesterdays
Star. AS Mr. Martins letter did not
reach us until .2:40 p. M, it had to
wait until tomorrow.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Gov. Cats and other notables were
in jacksonville yesterday and today,
trying to select a successor to At
torney General West. Flournoy,
Hodges, Terrell and an "Ocala law
yer" are among those mentioned for
the place
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Mr.. L. H. Pillans today bought one
wagon load of long staple cotton for
$463. He says the staple is rolling
in and the crop in Marion promises
to be a record breaker in both long
and short staple.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Charles Rheinauer is paying for
two table d'hote meals at day at the
Ocala House for members of Com
pany A. They are chosen by lot and
the lucky boys always greatly enjoy
their dinners.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
OCALA FRATERRAL ORDERS
KNIGHTS OF PYTBIAs

Ocala Lodge No. IS. Conventions
held every Monday night at 1880
at the Castle Hall, over the James
Carlisle drugstore. A cordial welcome
10 visiting brothers.
E. L. Stapp, C. C.
ChAs. Z. Sage, z. of &. s.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Ross, the Cheek-Neal Coffee man,
says you can now get Maxwell House
Coffee in all the stores; best coffee
buy it. "Good to the last drop" 28-6t
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29
ORDER OF EASTERN STAR

0cala Chapter, No. 29, Q. E. =.
ueets at Yonge's hall the second ak
JacCb Thu 'sday evenings Of eacs
2nth a. go O'Clock.
Mrs, Rosalie Condor, Secretary.
Mrs. Susan Cook, W. M.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1917-08-29

Mr.. VIM. H. Dickson, of Jackson
vile, agency manager for the Equit-
able Life Assurance Society, arrived
IN Ocala last night for several days
stay.