davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

ham 'shirtwaists! And if you will be-
l1eve it, you can have nothing smart
er in the blouse line this season.
Bingham has received a sudden pro-
motion to the head Of Fashions class
and is putting on all the airs of silk.
One may have striped, checked or
plaid Bingham but for blouses the
candy stripes and the small plaids are
most favored. Sport shirts. as one
must call them now, to be quite smart
on ones lingo, are of striped or plaid
Bingham with cuffs and collar of plain
white linen. starched the least bit to
give crispness, while the gingham is
ironed soft and limp. An authorita-
tive sport blouse Of the type is made
of yellow and white plaid gingham in
tunic effect, with pipings of plain yell
low linen around the V shaped neck
opening, lower edge and long vertical
pocket slashings at the hip. Collar
and cuffs are of white, linen and a
patent leather belt with gilt buttons
draws in the tuhic to trim lines. Red
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

Dark Fabrics Against The Throat.
Especially trying, unless the neck
is perfect. are the bodices of dark
material showing the plain, severe
neck finish. This effect is very smart
if one can stand it, and many
French frocks of navy serge or black
satin are absolutely unrelieyed at the
neck, the shallow square or v-shaped
decolletage outlining the throat and
throwing its fairness-if fair 1t be-
into high relief.
Square And Dutch Necks Are
Fashionable.
The bell sleeved frock of chiffon, a
Lanvin model has the little square
neck opening that this couturier fav-
ors just now. Lanvin is using also
many Dutch neck effects on frocks for
younger women. The Dutch neck is
always youthful in suggestion but it's
Nyouthfulness is sadly out of harmony
with some of the shriveIed, bony
,throats, or cushioned double chins one
sees in its company. Only a young
throat or very perfect middle-aged
throat can stand the Dutch neck. but
the shallow square is particularly be-
coming to most middle-aged women.
The Lanvin frock pictured is a most
admirable model in its grace, refine
ment and distinction. Note how sim
pie it is-just a gathered skirt, tucked
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09
Bingham Dresses Are the Fashion

Mode for years-except for children's
dresses. One is glad indeed to see
this really charming fabric re-instated
for there is nothing more delightful
for summer days, and nothing that
responds so satisfactorily to the min
istrations of the laundress. Very
smart indeed is a one-piece frock of
blue and white striped Bingham, worn
with a black patent leather belt and
wide collar and cuffs of organdie. A
green plaid bingham, now being made
for tall young woman, is belted with
green suede and has a deep collar of
white voile edged with the new darn
ing embroidery done with sewing silk,
run through the fabric in long and
short stitches in rows and rows.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

neck opening is too severe for you,
take careful note of collars before
making, plans for the spring frock of
a formal character. Study collars in
the shops and in fashion pictures, but
do not take any collar for granted
just because it looks we'll in a pic
ture. There is nothing so treacher-
Gus as a collar. 1t may be the last
word in smartness, yet it simply will
not set right on your particular
throat. Always cut out collar pat
tern in old cloth and try it's effect on
the bodice before cutting into expen-
sive material, and be very exact in
cutting, and in pinning the material
to the pattern. A quarter of an inch
out of the way in the neck opening
of collar may cause the collar to
pull askew or to drag away awkward
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

at the foot, and a NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
er bodice cut out in a deep v at the
front. The foundation bodice, also of
chiffon, crossing under the v shaped
opening, gives the square decolletage.
OF course, the sleeves have much to
do with the individuality of this very
simple frock; indeed. it might be said
that they make the frock.'' Flow
ing and bell shaped, they are extreme
ly graceful and should prove ideally
cool and comfortable for summer
wear The accessories of the frock
are in keeping with it's smart, re
strained style. The hat, parasol and
pumps are all chosen with excellent
taste.
: Collars A Study All In Themselves.
IF you decide that the collarless
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

from the neck ten inches and slash
each sleeve up the outer side, five
inches. Then embroider a scallop
and dot design around all edges and
slashes, except at the bottom of the
tunic which must be hemmed. Put
deep, square pockets at either side of
the front, just below the waistline and
make straight, two-inch belt of the
linen, long enough to be knotted
loosely at the back. Under the slashed
neck opening place cord loops which
fasten to buttons on the under side
of the blouse. The loops may be I'M
fastened so that the blouse may slip
on and off over the head.
The sheer batiste blouse pictured is
not at all an unusual model-one has
seen hundreds of such bloEses in sea-
sons gone by; but very. few with such
a neck-finish. It is the cut-out neck
with g narrow standing collar run
through with ribbon which gives this
blouse it's distinctive and different"
note. Also, you will note that the
blouse is extremely loose. This loose
ness is decidedly smart feature. One
cannot achieve the modish looseness
by buying cheap blouse in an extra
large size, for then the shoulder seams
would droop over the arms-which
is not fashionable. The blouse itself
must be made loose by gathers. and
by plenty of the soft, sheer material.
This model is of hand-tucked and en-
broidered batiste. The collar is
narrow, doubled band of batiste
through which is run tapestry blue
grosgrain ribbon. Castings in the cuffs
are run with ribbon also, and small
bead balls dang1e from the ribbons
on blouse and sleeve -
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09
CollarsS can Scarcely be TOO Exa6Ser0a
and sleeves Compromise with Ler9t
ira Sepavate Urderasleeves

ly at sides or back. If you are an
experienced cutter of collars, you can
experiment with the paper patterns
which are usually more or less con-
ventional and ordinary in type. Add
length here, or width there; slash up
a curve or extend a point downward
to be weighted with tassel, remem-
berlng to leave the neck-opening
alone, for on this depends the fit, and
set" of the collar. Always cut col
lar bit larger than you think is nee
essary; it is easy to slash away ma
terial, but skimpiness is a defect
hard to remedy. There are collars
large enough to fall over the should
ers. and collars deep enough to touch
the back of the waistline-and tiny
collars that turn over only an inch or
two at the back of the bodice; but all
must have some distinctive touch or
some exaggeration of outline in order
to claim SmartneSS.
Colored Collars. Better Than White.
Never was a season of such gay
neckwear. Were this a chat on sport
attire, one would say "such brilliant
neckwear," but we are considering
formal frocks and not sport blouses to-
day, and the formal frock has a collar
chastened in hue, though any hue
seems preferable to clear white. Pale
gray and pale ecru chiffon or
Georgette are most seen in col
lars and there are many collars
of gold-colored chiffon or Georgette
Most of them are finished with
a picot edge or are hemmed and
stitched in many rows, with sewing
silk. Hemstitched collars are not as
fashionable as they used to be. A
very smart and dashing collar is pic
tured, three-layer collar of palest
gray Georgette, worn with a frock of
dahliae red worsted and mohair mix
ture The sleeves are also notable and
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09
Pajamas, Now the
Fduored Feminine
Sleeping Garb

~ NE really wonders whether any
women sleep in old-fashioned
"nighties" now. SO many and
~ varied are the styles in pajamas
and SO much to-do Is made over them
In the shop advertisements. One
Manhattan shop last week advertised
ten different sorts of pajamas for
women-and not one of the sorts was
obtainable for cent less than seven
dollars. Perhaps these luxurious
sleeping garments are packed in the
weekend suitcase to impress ones
hostess, and one slumbers at home in
a modest one-ninety- eight muslin
nightgown of familiar type.
But 1t would really not do at all,
to start out on a fashionable week
end visit minus a suit of silk pajamas;
for when all the other women sit
around in gay silken bifurcated at
tire. at the bedtime gossip hour, one
will feel oddly uncomfortable in an
o1d-style, lace-trimmed "nightie."
MILDLY pajamas are the very latest.
They are made of striped satin and
cerise and white is a favored COM
bination. The trousers are loose and
graceful and the MILDLY tunic with
its wide collar and knotted tie, slips
ON over the head. The pajamas have
side pockets into which one may tuck
ones hands, lifting the MILDLY bit
as q sailorman lifts his tunic when
he thrusts his hands into his brooches
pockets. There are mandarin pajamas
too, of peach blossom or cherry bios
som satin with embroideries in white;
there are paisley satin pajamas. and
dainty pajamas all in white, with satin
trousers and coats Of Georgette crepe.
But the strangest garment in the col
lection is the paJama-nightgown an
odd AFFAIR truly sometimes celled
the pantalon nightgown, just an
ordinary, pretty robe-de-nuit, drawn
up with ribbon and beading as
far down as the Empire waistline.
Below that it balloons out into baggy
pantalons which are drawn in at the
ankle and finished with ribbon and
beading to match the nightgown top
And on one hip Is a pocket, also
trimmed with ribbon and beading.
Odd enough too, but extremely
fetching, are white washable satin
paJamas trimmed with little ruff1es
Of white Georgette and bows of ciel
blue ribbon
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09
Something More for the Hairbin To Do

n is a grudging husband who will
"a not admit that the. humble hair
81 pin is the most useful article in
~ the house. In every household
something like the following is apt to
occur at any time: Mrs. Wife asks
Mr.. Husband to fix the lock on the
cellar door, or the hinge of the oven
door in the kitchen stove, or a section
of the chandelier that needs straight
ening. Mr.. Husband takes a look at
the trouble and announces resource
fully that he could fix the thing easily
enough if he had the tools! Where
upon Mrs. Wife, accustomed to this
masculine assertion, lifts hand to her
back hair, withdraws a hairpin-and
in three seconds has the difficulty adj
justed.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

their style, TO the SartOrlal expert,
definitely foretelIs return to elbow
sleeves. Sleeves always being to divide
against themselves when a style
change in sleeve lengths is imminent.
This Jenny frock therefore prophesies
short sleeves in it's loose elbow sleeves
over under sleeves which will later be
discarded. The undersleeves match
the gray chiffon collar and the red
frock is trimmed with gray silk braid
and ruby-colored paillettes.
Sleeves OF The Dress Material.
Another thing that whispers of
shorter sleeves is the new sleeve of
the frock material. Transparent
sleeves are not as fashionable as they
were, though they will be worn here
we'll through the summer. Most of
the spring models in the shops, even
the more expensive models, show
sleeves Of chiffon or Georgette-and
these frocks will be worn, no doubt of
that! But exclusive models coming
over now-the later, authoritative
styles which Paris brings out after
the spring openings are all over
have sleeves of the frock material,
and at least half the frocks have
elbow, or even shorter sleeves. Just
about cold weather, after the sum-
mer days are past and gone, short
sleeves are going to strike America
but there is solace in the thought that
they will probably stay for awhile.
and next summer their cool comfort
may be enjoyed. You will observe
that all the French frocks pictured
today have sleeves of the material. In
two cases, that of the Paquin model,
and that of the Jenny model, the
sleeves are cut off to show under
sleeves of transparent stuff. The frock
with a bead jumper has a guimpe and
sleeves of the skirt material-the
Jumper is really trimming, rather
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

The other day a party of AUTOMOBILE
lists, were delayed by break
down miles from a repairing station
The chauffeur, after puttering over the
engine for several minutes while the
occupants of the car slowly CONCEALED
in the freezing wind, asked respect
fully if any lady in the party happened
to have a wire hairpin she could spare
The hairpin was Forthcoming and in
a twinkling the car was on it's way
and never stopped until it reached the
repair station for a more substantial
restoration to normal running order.
There is one use for the inva1ua BILE
hairptn that perhaps some woman has
not yet discovered. There is nothing
like 1t 1sr v1kting mp lace curtains.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

Lace or net curtains that have been
Numbered are most aggravating things
to hang. One cannot trust to drawing
a thread and running a heading for
the rod to slip through; for no head
ing made on the straight of the goods
will make a laundered lace curtain
hang true; the material has been too
stretched and pulled in the launder-
ing. Put the rod in place first and
then turn the top of the curtain over
it and pull the lower edge to even
length, slipping hairpins into the ma
terial close to the rod. They will not
come out. as ordinary pins would.
when the curtain is lifted down for
sewing, and one can run threads across
for the heading and casing very easily
before the hairpins a1e 49, ss
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

than bodice. This dainty model is
made of flesh, pink crepe de chine
with jumper and sleeve embroideries
of pink and crystal beads. An equally
da inty frock from Poiret is of pale blue
liberty silk over pink satin. The Dutch
neck and little sleeves revealing the
elbow are girlish in suggestion, as is
also the wide, knotted sash. The neck
opening is finished with narrow bead
trimming which extends out over the
sleeve in two tabs. Tassels of the
same beads weight the ends of the
soft sash.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09
SKIRTS AS PARIS SEES THEM

Il
TELL the skirts in Paris are of one
So type or another-either paneled
"a or Zouave. The panels are cut
y @ perfectly straight in any width
that is becoming to the figure and
are hung frora the belt, falling loose
ly over the skirt; or the lower edge
of the panel may be turned under the
skirt hem and gathered to the lining.
Very wide panels ten inches or
more, are gathered into the belt: mar
rover panels suggest sash ends. The
women inclined to be stout have seized
upon this panel idea, for there is moth
ing like a panel to give long lines to
a much curved silhouette; and since
the panel has become the fiat wom-
ans special prerogative, the slim
woman has unkindly taken to Zouave
nodes These, at least, are hopeless
for any figure but wand-like one!
The Zouave6 costume has full, draped,
skirt and a jacket worn outside it
The Jackets have very straight under
arm seams and are cut to give a fiat
appearance over the bust. They are
trimmed with soutache and embroid-
cry in metal threads, and are very gay
and charming affairs, when worn by
slim, youthful figures
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

thing rather than gingham dur
~ ing the past few years; but now,
" 10 and behold! gingham is pro-
NOTED to first rank in fashion. Some
Of the smartest women at Palm Beach
this season wore, in the morning,
dainty frocks of Bingham, the patterns
showing plaids. checks and stripes in
pastel colorings These dresses were
on very simple lines the waist loosely
belted with a broad patent leather
belt. Bingham when of excellent quail
ity, really costs enough to establish
the material on a par with linen, vet
for some reason or other Bingham has
not been considered. even. by Madam
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1917-05-09

| NE really wonders whether any
women sleep in old-fashioned
"nighties" now. SO many and
variad are the sfvIes IN M iop,os
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
THE Marriage Market. !"

I killed Eric EoNhalI!
This startling announcement made
by Mrs. Helen Spayden at the trial
Of Richard Marlowe for the murder
of Bradley Spayden created ire
nendous sensation in court.
But it was small compared to the
sensation made when Grimes, Brad
lev Spayden's butler, rushed to the
front of the room.
That's not sou Grimes cried; 1T
was Spayden who killed Eric Foxhall.
I saw him do it,"
When Spayden heard this he
rushed out of the court room and
into an adjourning room where ne
committed suicide by shooting him
self. And when he was dead Mrs.
Spayden and Richard Marlowe, who
had long been lovers, were happily
reunited.
The circumstances under which
Helen Grant married Spayden, in
spite of the fact that she loved Rich
ard Marlowe, were startling and Sc
too were the circumstances which lee
| Marlowe's indictment for the murder
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
RED CROSS LADIES
TO WORK 1T DANCE

At a special meeting of the Enter
tainment Committee of the Army
and Navy Life Activities Committee,
and ladies Of the local Red Cross
unit held yesterday morning in the
Chamber of Commerce, plans were
agreed upon concerning the part OF
the Red cross in the dance to be
given Saturday night in the armory
hall for the men of the service sta
toned here.
At the second of the dances held
last Saturday, the Red Cross sold re-
freshments to the dancers, and it was
decided that a similar arrangement
would be effective tomorrow night. 1t
was also decided to arrange for check
ing the hats of those attending, and
while there will be no charge for this
service, any voluntary gifts will be
applied to the Pensacola Red Cross
fund.
Owing to the large number attend
ing the last dance, the seating capac-
ity was taxed, but additional chairs
will be placed around the hall for
those who come merely as spectators
There is no admission charge for the
dances, and everyone is cordially in
vited to attend.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
TWO RECRUITS FOR
NAVY ARE SIGNED

Two recruits were signed up at the
local navy station yesterday and left
last night for the district headquart-
ers at Montgomery. The two were
B. F. Scott and w. r. Patrick, both
of Millville.
With these two Pensacola starts a
new week, and it is believed new re-
cord will be hung up for this city.
Several recruits were received here
last week, and apparently there is a
general response for men to join the
navy.
Almost every branch of the service
is open for enlistment, and owing to
the large number of men needed, pro-
motion is very rapid.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
Girl Rescued from a Horse, Falls
Ger Precipice.


William Duncan and Carol Hollo-
wav, who play the leading roles In
'eThe Fighting Trail" greater Vita
graphs marvellous me!odramatic ser
iql Of the big outdoors, risked then
lives man. tines d-lring the making
of the e-ieantic photo9lay and one IN
cr'ort in particular they will long re-
Ter. 1t was during the making
the first episode. which will be
shown at tie Isis Theatre on Tues
day.
CarrEinr OFT the action of the dra-
I'm, Mr. Duncan ard Miss Holloway
we've riding in opposite directions
alcn~ a narrow mountain trail. 1t
was intended that they should meet
and become acquainted at the narrow
est point of the trail, where it was i'm
-rossihle for two horses to pass.
At TIE chosen point there was q
| sheer drop Of 50 feet to a rocky can
Won bed. Whenthe two riders met
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
FEDERAL EM'PLOyE
HELD TOGRAND JURY

Dave Hill, negro in the employ of
the government and stationed at the
army post here, was arraigned be-
fore United States Commissioner Sui
livan yesterday morning on the charge
of selling liquor to members of the
military forces of the United States
while in uniform, and bound over to
the next term of court.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28

NOTE: 500 million pounds. That's
how much Virginia tobacco was made
into cigarettes last year-over times as
much as any other tobacco. lind Pied
mont Is the bigge5f-sell;ng Virginia e'ga,ette
il the qUorla.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28
The Journals want Ad.
Way" is the BEST way.
BASEBALL RESULTS
NATIONAL LEAGUE.
Brooklyn 2; Pittsburg 10.

DIOohiyH Z, ittsDuf IL.
brooklyn -...I i
flLtSDuTg III IA
Batteries: Pfeffer, Cheney, Wach-
ter and Kreuger and Miller; Cooper
and Blackwell. Umpires, Rigler and
Emslie.
Boston 4; Cincinnati 6.
DoSIon ..4
Cincinnati 80. . 80 10 8
Batteries: Hughes, Scott and Mey-
ers and Trageresser; Eller and Win
go. Umpires, Harrison and O'Day.
Only National League games today.
AMERICAN LEAGUE.
Chicago 6; Washington I.
1H1CdSO % IL v
Batteries: Benz and Lynn; Shaw,
Gallia, Craft and Ainsmith. Um-
pires, OLoughlin and Moriarity.
St. Louis 5; Philadelphia 6.
SC. Louis --..o IL .
Phiiadelr<a 49,. 49, 50 10 4
Batteries: Groom, Loudermilk and
Sevesid; Bush McAvoy and Perkins.
Umpires, Evans and Owens.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1917-09-28

Miss Holloway's horse reared, the
earth slipping from under his hind
feet, and the girl was in danger OF
being carried to death with the ami
NAL over the edge of the cliff. Dun
can realized her peril, leaped from
his own horse and snatched her from
the saddle just as her own horse tum-
bEed over backwards.
The Nezperce herald. (Nezperce, Idaho) 1900-1957, 1917-11-29

Of the necessary funds. And as
the X. g. activity does principally
and practically depend on the
contributions Of the Catholics of
this country, We should be willing
and prepared 10 contribute TO this
cause not only now, but every
time we may be called upon 70 do
so in the future. To do this we
should consider, that while we
are az home IN personal liberty
and comfort, our soldier and
sailor boys are under strict di-
cipline and severe bodily strain
in their respective camps, and per-
haps sooner than we expect, will
be at the front 70 give their all
for as and our country. Here
then we have motives Of honor and
self respect and Of love and pa
triotism; and last, but not least.
we have motives Of religion.
According 10 q statement of the
War Department, about 40 per
cent Of all soldiers and sailors are
Catholics. a surprisingly large
percentage in a country, where
hardly one fifth Of the population
is Catholic. And these are only
the Catholics who profess their
religion. But priests IN the train.
ing camps say, that besides these
they find many who are Of Cath
Ollie decent aud who are Catholics
in their heart. but who would pro-
fess their religion only when plac-
ed In extreme circumstances. The
commissioned army-chaplains who
are priests are too few 20 look
after the spiritual welfare of these
many thousands. The X. c., be-
sides their activity for the bodily
welfare Of our soldiers, intend 10
send about 200 volunteer Catholic
priests abroad to follow our boys
TO the trenches, ministering TO-
them NJ all times, and il necessary,
70 make for them the supreme
sacrifice,n insuring their being
III to die. -
Rev. A. w. Rompe.