Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-06-27

n n interesting BIT OF gossip about
~ the clothes worn by the smart set
- In Washington. The keynote OF
all gowns described seems to be ut.
most simplicity.
Already Washington is showing the
effect or war on the fashions. Officers
in uniform find themselves confronted
on every hand by brisk and busy
young women IN khaki with service
hats and military boots. The latter, 10
be sure, are Of Russian leather, laced
in feminine fashion, but still are boots,
with low heels and high tops, heaying
no excuse for the former summer dis
play OF silk hosiery.
These uniformed maids and a few
young matrons are the advance guard
Of the National service school Of the
Navy League, which opens its. sec.
ond season Monday with an enrol
ment Of nearly 100 members.
with the hat land no one without
the spirit Of a real soldier will wear
this haiti the uniform would pass as
an extremely practical and becoming
utility suit. The circular skirt, but
toned In front from waist to hem, Is
only two inches shorter than the ultra
smart skirt OF the season, and the
jacket, a boX-pleated belted model
covering the hips, q real Norfolk
jacket. When the brown flannel skirt
gives place to q white blouse and the
soldierette removes her hat, she is
only to be distinguished from q dozen
other young women one meets in a
morning walk by the material OF her
costume. For this model has already
been copied in serge and 10, likely 10
be duplicated many times In linen or
lighter fabric before the end or the
month, giving to the women Of the
country a standard model in a two
piece suit, which IL uniformly becom
ing, convenient and Of moderate price.
Mrs. Dewey, widow Of the Admiral
Of the Navy, heads the list OF promi-
nent women giving actual service t.
this particular form Of feminine pre-
paredness.
Some young women famous for
their smart attire, who have tempo
rarily abandoned silks and chiftons,
voiles and embroidered muslins for
flannel and khaki, are Mrs. Eudora
Clover, Miss Carolyn Nash, Miss Anne
Hopkins, Miss Helen Parker and Mrs.
Howard Hume.
The riot OF color that threatened
the American Vanity Fair as q marked
feature OF the season seems to: have
skipped the national capital, where
the best-dressed women Of both the
official and resident circles are avoid
ing state effects.
Mrs Robert Lansing. Mrs. William
G. McAdoo and Mrs. Franklin X. Lane,
who were among the deeply interested
spectators at the Capitol several days
last week, on each occasion wore plant
tailored suits In new models witt
conservative hats which matched the
suits. Mrs Lansing, who 10 partial TO
brlght-toned evening gowns. but dark
ones for the streets, has q very deep
purple serge coat suit with straw hat
Of the same color, trimmed In foliage
and sioiets. Mrs McAdoo wore blue
serge, with a tricorn hat Of black
straw, trimmed IN curve quilts poised
Ia q. very becoming fashion, and Mrs.
Lane q dark blue cca. suit decorated
with several widths Of black silk
braid, topped BY round hat In black
straw, with its crown encircled by
small deep-toned pink rosebuds In
their own foliage. Zach made a most
attractive picture Of typical Wash
ington rnatron showing an intelligent
interest In the affairs Of her country.
Mrs. Henry d. Flood, wife Of the
chairman Of Foreign Affairs, seated
In the members gallery, looked ex-
tremely smart in q dark blue tailored
suit, showing a.frilled blouse of whita
muslin, with deep collar and cuffs, the
latter turned back over the jacket
sleeve. Her hat was black Milan,
trimmed in goura, with its broad brim
rolled slightly at one side.
Even Miss jeanette Rankin--the
Hon. jeanette Rankin, to give her
full title-s ubscribes to the distinctly
feminine, rather than the severe tail
ieur, or even the present-day military
STYLES of dress. eIhen the roll was
called on the war note in the House
of Representatives. Miss Rankin wore
q one-piece black charmeuse, with the !,
new full skirt gathered at the normal
waist line and allowed to TALL straight |
to the ankles. The top was also OF
the round model, smooth fitting to the
shoulders, with the fulness meeting
that Of the skirt under the soft girdleI
OF the charmeuse. The collar was of |
white net In an extremely up-to-the |
minute form, with the rounded rather
than the Dutch or vshaped neck,
showed IT'S wearer's finely curved |
throat, and broad enough to come IL
the shoulder before tapering toward
49, ----