davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-04-04
Resolution Is Strengthened

The Senate Foreign Relations Com
mittee to-day reported favorably the
resolution, changing its form slightly
so as TO make it little stronger even
than the measure finally introduced by
Chairman Flood of the House commit
tee and Senator Martin yesterday
There are two important changes.
The original statement that 1.-The recent
acts of the imperial German govern
ment are acts of war against the gov
ernment of the United States" is made
TO read that "the imperial German gov
ernment has committed repeated acts
of war against the government and the
people of the United States" The sec
ond change pledges "all Of the re-
sources of the country" to bringing
about a successful elimination Of the
war.
Due to the delay in appointing Re-
publican members of the House COM
mittee, that body has postponed action
nntll tO-mOElOW DNoB'NS
oueer make-u!. cf the committee, which
includes a curionslv large proportion
of pacifsts. the committee is expected
not only to go as far as the Flood reso-
luton. but to approve the stronger
text Of the Senate committee draft
Abortion Of the resolution before to-
morrow night is predicted by members
OF the committee.
La Toilette Blocks Action
Action in the Senate would nave
been had to-day. or at least the de-
bate would have been started, had 1t
not been for Senator La Toilette. who
prevented its being taken up by unani-
nous consent and showed plainly that
he intended to fight the declaration OF
war with all his power When the Sen
ate meets tomorrow. however. there IS
no parliamentary device remaining by
which La Toilette. or any OF the paci
fist and pro- German crowd can prevent
debate proceeding.
Seven Senator'S regarded as certain
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-04-04
Huge Problems Faced

Enjoy the 'Sss't vESts = sEscY ERE 9a%"t Ds""
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-04-04
" L 4 T II + r

Fair to-day. Tomorrow unsettled.
Moderate temperatures, with gen
tic. variable winds becoming
fresh from the cast.
Hull Report on Pase 20
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-04-04
Cantsln GHmers Statement

CAPTAIN David J. Gilmer Is irving
60 raiso n negro infantry battalion.
aud complains that the pro-Germau
c,mnaien is making 1t hard for MIN
~ Get men. Captain Gilmer com.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
One-Piece Coat Frocks
1.-TWO seasons ago there was strong ap-
peal made to women by dressmakers
and reports of fashion to adopt orna-

II
peal made to women by dressmakers
and reports of fashion to adopt orna-
mental top coats that would serve as gowns.
So far so good. The appearance of a good
looking gown was there. The warmth was
sufficient for a chilly day in autumn, but the
disadvantage came in when one tried to sit in
a room or shop or go to concert or lecture
in the costume that was made for the stree.
1t proved hot and bothersome.
The designers have reversed the situation
for this autumn. There will be smart looking
one-piece frocks to be worn on the street,
made of this material and having the appear
snce of coat. Then, if one needs added pro-
lection, coat can be slipped over the frock
without injury to either.
These frocks are strangely like others that
we're worn generation ago, and they have
frst cousinship to other gowns that were
launched at the races in Paris in the spring
Of 1914. There is a slim, tight bodice and F..
slightly full skirt gathered to it. That is the
gist Of the matter, but each designer works
out the gown after her own liking.
The more conservative dressmakers keep to
the one color and the one fabric, although they
separate the garments by deep line of de-
marcaton. This line is placed trife below
the normal waistlne, toward which it inclnes
at the back
The best Of these frocks shown so far is
given in the sketch. II is Of olive green cloth,
with an immense cape collar Of black satin
and wide, capacious pockets placed on the hips.
There IS d straight line Of gray bone buttons
that begins above the waistlne and ends at
the hem, and these are repeated in smaller
sizes on the sleeves from elbow TO wrist.
The frock, as you see has tight fitted
bodice with darts in IT and sleeves that fit the
arm from shoulder 10 hand, and although the
skirt looks as though it had fulness in it,
tbsre is really very little width when one be
gins 10 walk. The attenuated line is spread
out by the fiat, deep pockets that have their
olive green edges lined with black satin, TO
match the collar.
The bit Of white that gives gentleness to
the frock is in the straight chcmisette Of
tucked satin that goes under the reycres and
outlines the lower edge Of the open neck
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
Jackets Like Mother Used to Wear

The short Jacket, however, as it will be worn
this autumn, is BIT of costumery that is taken
by the back Of the neck and pulled out of the
family album.
One of these jackets which will undoubtedly
prove success because it has been issued by
dominant house has little hustle all its own.
1t belongs to skirt that is quite narrow and
has bit of an upward pull from knees to
waistline at the back--a pull so slight that it is
not always noticeable.
The jacket fits the figure, curves into the
waistline at the back and then flares out into a
series of folds that give the hustle effect II is
buttoned in straight line down the front
There is a band Of velvet above the hem of the
coat The buttons are covered with the wine
colored velour that makes the suit. The collar
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26

is very high, soft in its folds, rolls over back
ward to the neck line and is trimmed with
band of velvet.
Revers are abandoned by the talors and
dressmakers. Where one coat will have them,
sixteen others will be fastened in a straight
line from the chin to the lower edge. All the
collars are high but soft and enveloping the
neck and chin in the manner that was consid-
cred correct in the eighteenth century.
Mind you, this style is not the only powerful
note in fashions that is brought out for jackets.
1t is one of several other details, and woman
will have the chance TO accept what she wishes.
It may be said, however, that the coat that
fastens in line down the front, the buttons
running straight through the high, rolling col
lar, will be the most noticeable change in street
costumery that will take place in October.
The narrow skirt has already been accepted
here and there, and there are hundreds Of
women who never have given it up, so its wide
spread acceptance will not cause quite the Same
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
Short Skirts Necessary for Walking

The shortness of the skirt for street wear is
necessary. In the spring there was decided
tendency to lengthen skirts, and many con-
sentative women adopted the fashion with en-
thusiasm, but if skirt is to be exceedingly
narrow it cannot be long. 1t would be too ut
terly inconvenient for women who are plunged
into a series of activities
It has already been announced that two kinds
of Jackets will prevail in the autumn One is
hip length and one is hem length. The latter is
called polonase and the former is called
jacket.
The revival of the polonaise is merely
contribution to the fashion for top coats One
can Use a polonaise over any kind of skirt and
blouse, and if it is lined in the colorful and in
teresting way that prevails among tailors to-
day. it presents itself as a garment Of rare
merit.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26

ever is regarded with great anguish By
nation is never interpreted through clothes or
music until the sorrow has passed into retro.
spect.
Suddenly, France has determined to 20 ases
to early Flanders for her inspirations. 0n
of the new gowns might have been worn BY
Elsa Of Brabant. II has the low waistit
the heaping mass Of embroidery, the Close
hanging train with its splendid velvet lining
1t is of heavy white satin, with the bodice c''
cred with dark blue and rose embroidery
through which flicker gilt sequins The en-
broidered train is lined with gold brown ye''l
The grdle, which is dropped far below ~
waist, is merely a curved band Of cloth OF goo
The designer who exhibited this gown p9'
into the hands Of the mannequin great l''
of brilliant green ostrich feathers. WA
more could any woman built on the medls'a
type ask of an artist than this costume!
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
Covert Cloth Raincoab

CEA captains who have seen Lifetime
- service in European waters; longsno''
men who have spent their years on '''
English Channel and the coast of Holland q
well as several millions Of inhabitants OF FRANZ
and Flanders, insist that it has ralned hO''
in three years in that country than ever OeiO'
in its history.
Those who live in Paris say that there ns''
never been such fogs in that city, Ina' o..
other point Of interest. That the weather "a
changed in that country very Few ~ =. :.
doubt, but what has changed u Is N"
scientists TO say. : A.
Now all of this talk Of rain IN Paris y :.
rectly connected with fashions. IL IS NV -.
bling dissertation on meteoro!ogy; II ar,
ambe on climatic conditions TO explain V"'
of fashions in Paris l., he
For raincoats are now made lhefe " Lstn
hundreds. Remarkable umbrellas nave ,,,.
invented. Waterproof suits have pee. -,
fected for men and women. New na'' ,sv,
have been created TO shed water. ohOe ard
been built to give service on muddy roau .sr;.
wet pavements. Paris has been thInhht Ho,.
ously about the three years OF ram a l.
and whenever Paris thinks about any; 'bss
az
America has followed the lead OF franz n", s.e
is taking raincoats with seriousness '"''
gives TO evening wraps. ,ro,,ar
There was an epoch when eacn Isrk
thought herself well dressed IN olaes u -, Al
blue serge skirt with a short htted y".A ,r n
tan covert cloth This fashion may ie ,sUarins
the near future There is a decided . .aIors
toward separate garments, in opposing a ss
TO build a street suit, and there Is a "ssysraI
trend toward the short jacket WIN
seams ,,coesieJ
This fashion, however, is strongly suss ScoG
by the incoming Of covert cloth a. The
material from which TO build rainSoa's, sns.
sketch shows a new model which nss hat /.
Gent air of jauntiness to offset the la''
is really utility coat for damp days, The
The top is slim, the shoulders narsOS louss
lower part is as full as Russian arc
There are two capacious pockets Wn a,on Of
only allowed in this day of conser'aS"Vsn all
fabric because the carrying home % The
bundles has become wartime fashion. ,ok Of
buttons are Of brown leather to give ~, tho
active service to garment WHICH ~"
chance of appearing frivolous.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
A NEW COAT FOR AUTUMN
Made of covert cloth. The sash girdle is of the
material, and the buttons are Of
brown leather.

hal nearly exhausted the commodities Of this
country.
That skirt was called the tie-back The front
AMI sides were pulled across the figure so that
the wearer could barely step, and rubber bands
were put across the back below the waistlne,
to draw the material up into a series of little
puffs. This was as much of a hustle as was
permitted.
Again. in this day Of elimination of waste
through the necessities Of war, we are to be put
into the tight skirt with its fitness arranged at
the back in series of slight flares.
The American designer, well as the
French one, has gone in for this upward tilt of
material at the end Of the spine and it may be
that the later fashions will accentuate it.
Whatever may be the fulness though, at any
especial spot on the skirt, those who are re-
garding the question of new clothes must re-
member that the hem will be almost as narrow
as it was in the days of the hobbe skirt.
There is a marked tendency toward the
sheath skirt in several of the new costumes.
The material sinks into the figure after it
leaves the waist and the hem provides only
stepping width.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26

II Is called Volga, from the great Russian
river, and is of tan-colored wool trimmed with
half-inch tucks. High collar fastened with
brown bone buttons. Bel. of Russian leather.
tines for the fluctuations in women's styles.
In war times, such as to-day, France has found
that she must eliminate the use of superiuous
material, and America is beginning to awaken
to the fact that she too must be economical
with fabric as with food.
1t may take an expert observer to find out
just where the elimination occurs The out
ward appearance of clothes for this autumn
is much the same as in other years, but those
who buy inform us that the experts have subtly
changed lines, trimmings and adjustments of
seams, so that material is saved all along the
line of dressmaking.
There are to be lace founces, for instance
but there are not to be founces of cloth. Bod
ices are to be slim, street coats are to be short
skirts are to be both narrow and short for the
street and narrow and long for the evening.
Again the Russian Coat
The Russian blouse as it has been worn does
not appear in the new fashions, but there is a
new coat named Volga, after the great Rus
sian river, which commentaries the battles
fought by the ally of France and America. 1t
has nothing of the swish and swagger of the
Russian ballet blouse, with its fur hem, much
fulness and ornate sash. Ii is simple affair
of tan colored rough woollen cloth, such as the
Russian peasants wear. Its bodice is slim,
and the skirt part hangs Imply against the
figure with slight funess. There is Deep
square yoke outlined on the bodice, with half
inch tucks placed on the material, and the sim
pie. soldier-ike belt is of russell leather
There is no obvious fastening to this coat
1t looks as though it is slipped on over the
head, but it is not. The collar that goes with
it is of the material and is much the shape
of the coachman's collar which we borrowed
from the French Revolution. 1t is fastened at
the side with three brown bone buttons. A
new kind Of Russian cap is made to go with
this Voga coat.
The American woman, like the French
woman, is very fond of her PREDETERMINED hat.
and she will get it this season in a copy Of
the Rough Rider hat worn by our army in
France The brim is unusually wide and is
not regular in width. Often it swoops and
scars and tits itself like an airplane
Whatever else it may do however, it must
be worn straight over the eyebrows, so that
not particle of the front hair is shown.
This is the rule with every hat Of the season.
The type of modified army hat has loose,
coapsible crown which is denied in or pinched
together often these hats are made of satin
and silk and many of them are faced with
white. Remember that it is quite trick in
the millinery world to face new hats with
white cream or beige satin or crepe.
1t was a bit difficult for the designers to
decide on what kind of clothes they could
make to represent Belgium. II has often been
said by the psychologists of clothes that what
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26

ripple of interest that will be given by this
family album coat with its upward tilt at the
back, its point in front, its long, slim waistline
under the arms, and its row of colored buttons
on which one will be tempted to say the old
nursery rhyme, Richman, poorman, beggar-
man. thief
The Elimination of Waste
In serious time there is always good rea-
son behind change in fashions. The experts
will argue that there is a reason in all times.
Commerce continually supplies necessity for
change. variation and originality.
The complete circle must be kept in perfect
order in the world of women's apparel. Those
of US who do not make clothes must buy
clothes in order that those who make clothes
may live, and if they're not able to live in
security other people must support them. As
long as the circle is happily completed each
person is secure and content. Therefore it is
quite right that commerce has its reason at all
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
EVENING GOWN

The material is heavy cream
crepe satin, with sirdle Of cloth
Of gold. The bodice and train
are embroidered in Flemish de-
sign. The lining Of the train
i, gold brown velvet.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
ONE-PIECE
COSTUME. THAT
LOOKS LIKE
A COAT

ton of waste material in clothes that has
u gone forth from the governing factors in
dress on both continents would be responsible
for the incoming of the hustle.
So far as the expert observer can see into
the near future of autumn costumery, which is
now being planned, shown and bought, the only
actual elimination of material is in the width
of the skirt.
There is little sense in being obstinate about
the width of skirts; they're going to be narrow
and it is quite as well that dressmakers and
women accept this fact without cavil.
Once before in the history of clothes there
was tight skirt which was said to have been
caused by the Civil War in America. 1t be-
came the fashion after Appomattox and re-
NAMED in fashion for decade and half af-
terward. 1t was also caused by the necessity
for economy in material, as the four years war
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-08-26
SHORT COAT
AND HABIT
SKIRT

This suit is made Of wine.
eolored velour trimmed
with bands Of red velvet
Slim coat fastened down
front with red velour but.
tons. The habit skin and
the flare Of the short JACKET
make q slight hustle At
back.
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30

The Federal council of the Church
es in America has announced, from
its New York office, that as a "war
measure" it purposes to begin cam.
pllgn of paid advertising to oppose
attempts of the brewery workers and
bartenders to dominate the trades
union movement. These advertise
ments will appear simultaneously for
period of three months in 100 differ
ent newspapers.
There is great danger that the
trades union movement will be split
in two on account of the aggression
OF the brewery workers and the bar
tenders and other groups OF WORKINGS,
who are fighting for the perpetual tion
of the LIQUOR trafficS no matter what
happens to other workers and the
nation as a WHOLE" said DIR. Charles
Stelzle, who is in charge Of the cam
paign.
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30
HEALTH TALKS
BY DR.. R. r. Daniels.
Care of the Feet.

Like most other parts Of the body,
the feet give US but little trouble
when they receive anything like good
care. To keep the feet in good con-
dition Is to add much to our comfort
and even to our health, Sponging
and rubbing the feet thoroughly each
day, which usually goes with the
daily sponge bath, will keep the skin
of the feet in good condition. and
will 90 long way toward preventing
cold feet, and, when combined with
proper diet, will also cure every case
In which the feet have disagreeable
odor. Cotton socks or stockings are
much to be preferred to wooden, even
in cold weather.
Most foot disorders are the result
of improper shoes and impr lper exer-
else. Shoes should be the proper
size; shoe too large will cause cOrns
as easily as one which is too small.
Shoes should not be too stiff, and the
soles should always be flexible, since
this permits the arch of ih4 foot tt
get the necessary amount of exercise
to keep 1t strong. SHOES should be
broad-toed and TO conform To tht
anatomy of the foot should he made
10 straight line on The inside of the
shoe, from the heel to the end of the
toe. so that the toe from he bail for
ward does not curve outward. Thu
style known by the shoe men as thu
s'Swlng Last" somewhat approache:
this type. The heel should be Meth
or too high or too low.
| Walking, not standing, is tht
| proper exercise for the feet. A
moderate amount of walking dali,
will go long ways toward keepins
the feet in good condition. Standin,
Il good deal and walking but littl,
breaks down the arches of the fee
and leads to the most common of foo
disorders. la walking. the toe
should be pointed straight forward
or ever turned inward slightly
rather than turned outward, sine
this position favors proper mainten
ance of the arch. The integrity o
the arch may be maintained, while il
cases of broken arch the disease ma
be cured by taking night and morn
ing the simple exercises of raising o.
the toes and raising on the heel
alternately a number OF times: ais
by raising the body up and down o
the balls of the feet.
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30
NOTICE
Ba yv.ew Herd Precinct.

Notice Is hereby given that the Petition
has been filed with the Board of County
Commissioners to create "A Herd District
wherein the running at large of all horses.
mules, asses, cattle, swine sheep and goats
shall be prohibited,
The period OF time during each year which
IL Is desired 10 prohibit such animals from
running at large is every day of each and
every year, IL being the desire of the petit
TONERS to prohibit said above named classes
of animals from running at large within said
Herd District at any time during any year.
Said District shall be bounded as follows:
Including all of section IS In Twp. 81
Range W. and all OF Bayyiew Townsite
Bayview, Idaho.
The date OF hearing said Petition will be
April 10th. 1917. at 10 O'Clock. A, NJ, at the
Court House in CEur d'Alene, Idaho.
Dated this 18th Gay of March. A. D., 1917.
EMIL ELDER
Clerk of the Board OF County Commissioners
81 Mar. y to April q.
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30
: W. c. 7. U. Column. :
EDITED BY MEMBERS OF LOCAL W. @. T. U

EDITED BY MEMBERS OF LOCAL W. @. t. U.
Regular meetings, 4th Friday of each
month. Place of meeting announced each
month. All ladies interested in temperance
work are cordially invited to attend.
PLEDGE.
II hereby solemnly promise, God helping
me, to abstain from all distilled, fermented
and malt liquors, including wine, beer and
cider. as beverage, and to employ all pro-
per means to discourage the use of and
traffic in same"
OBJEOT-To unity throughout the. worlQ
the work of women In temperance and socla
reform, and to work for the complete over.
throw of the alcohol and opium trades.
WATCHWORDS-Agita Educate, Or
ganize
METHODS Preventive. Educational
Evangellstic. Social and Legal
BADGE--A Knot OF White Ribbon.
TIME OF PRAYER-Noontide.
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30
u. s. LAND NOTICES.
NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION.
tPublisheT
Department of the Interior,
u. S. Land Office at Occur d'Alene, Idaho,
Uahn,,a,x, 5nf@

u. S. Land Office at Occur d'Alene, Idaho,
February IL, 1917
Notice is hereby given that Angus Nc
Intosh. whose post-Ofice address is r. f ID
No. 9. Rathdrhn, idaho, did, on the 4th day
of April. 1915. file In this office Sworn State
ment and Application No. 010250. to purchase
the SEA SEA, Section g. Township SO N.
Range s West Boise meridian. and the
timber thereon, under the provisions of the
act of June 3 1878. and acts amendatory
known as the climber and Stone Law" n,
such value as might be fixed by appraise.
ment. and that, pursuant TO such applica-
ton, the land and timber thereon have beer
appraised. 1000. the timber estimated 200
900 board feet at $3.50 per M. and the LAND
5000; that said applicant will offer fna
proof in support OF his application anC
sworn statement on the 9Th day OF May. 1917
before the Register and Receiver. u. S. Lane
Office at CPur d'Alene, Idaho.
Any person is at liberty to protest thi.
purchase before entry, or initiate a confess
at any time before patent issues. by filing
corroborated affidavit In this office. alleging
facts which would defeat the entry.
FRANK LANGLEY, Register
lot Feb. % to April q, 1917,
The Rathdrum tribune. (Rathdrum, Idaho) 1903-1963, 1917-03-30

Dry forces of Minnesota made a
net gain of two towns in the elections
held March IA. This was the first
sklrmish in the battle over state. wide
Prohibition which will be fought out
in November, 1918. Dry leaders de-
clare the sentiment 10 favor of prohi.
bition is steadily growing, and that
results of this last election are straws.