The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-09-22
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS ANNE ..ls4,-ov.. FOR WOMEN
Fly ANNE RITTENHOUsB

"The Cossack" is the name of a new
 coat suit that has many of the Rus
 sian features with which we are
 familiar, but sufficiently new to
 cause interest.
 New York, September n.-It is not
 possible to ignore Russia these days. In
 war; in politics and in fashions it is
 present in the brains of most civilized persons every day and every week.
 The Russian music and dancing att
 tracted the enthusiastic attention of
 French and American dressmakers in the
 beginning and so wide world of women were dressed in Cossack blouses, high
 boots, straight turbans and quantities
 of peltry Last winter we thought we
 had finished with whatever was Rus sian in costumery, but here 1t has crept
 up again for political reasons.
 FRANCES INTEREST IN RUSSIA
 Truly, there can be no other nation so
 passionately interested in what Russia
 ls doing as the French nation. France
 went into the war because of her treaty with Russia. She now greets republic instead of an autocracy, and she has the horrible news brought to her every day that the Russian armies may not flgnt after they have involved the entire French people in quarrel that was not their own.
 Russia is on the French tongue even more than America, and that is saying ,nrcn. It is natural, therefore, that these two countries should supply to the French designers much inspiration TOT the autumn costumery that we are now getting in every shop window along lhe thoroughfares. . There is nothing especially new that France is showing us which mas :peenI l inspired by Russia, but the signll4ean' fact ts that the Cossack and Muscovlte costumerv will remain with us. The best of it. that is, the newest part or It, Has changed its lines. The exceedingly mar row skirt is an accepted fact, and the high boots, although it may not pc on tue straight leg line of the Russian IootWear, Is still to be an important aoJuneI U the short skirt
 The Russian blouse will De attenuateo in It's fullness in the majority or moo- els. but now and then there comes ou' an odd Russian coat, such as the one shown in the sketch, which has the oiu, time fullness at the hem slightly heio in by an extra wide band of peltry- This is not the Cossack coat as We know it, but is one form of the Rus- sian tunic that has been adopted py the designers and modified to suit the pres ent need.
 THE WATTEAU PLEAT It seems passing strange that ons should get the effect of Watteau piea' in a Russian tunic. Imagine the cos tune in a Mozart opera and the cos tune in one of Adolf Bohm's foik pal, | let's, Think of 8 dainty little blt ol Watteaue beauty and the spienoor ol woman in Prince Igor!
 1 Nevertheless the designer may tak' ! liberties that would bar the hlstorlal 1 from the libraries. If the semplance o l Watteau pleat looks well on the mod i6cation of a Cossack coat, there IS n' 1 American woman who will object to th' | fact that things are queerly jumpleo. l This costume, which is being put ou as ona of the best of the new autumn suits. is made of sheer brown duVetyn and it is slimly fitted to the figure iron l mack to hips An immense collar skunk rises to the back of the head an' | crosses over in front like the enos 2 l a crayat. Two bands of wide, dark siil l braid are placed on the bias across .n l coat. to give that new line that IS II I sidiously screeping into all the lashion 1 the upward tit III front anu lhc oo
 l ward tilt in back
 The sleeves are small from shouioe to elbow and then drop loosely from tn l wrist in mediaeval fashion, but are TOT 1 tunately caught above the hand by bracelet of braid and cloth. The bottor I of the coat is edged with skunk an there Is an immense muir that goes VI. II. l the costume to keep woman from max
 ,nr tbe mistake of putting her hand into any kind of peltry that is not first cousin to the skunk.