The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-08-21
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS ANNE r,isa,nor.. FOR WOMEN
A street costume that saves a blouse is tight bodice and a slim skirt put together in the form of a coat.

| put together Tn the form of coat. l New York, August 2O.-Two seasons ago there was a strong appeal made to wom- en by dressmakers and reports of fashion to adopt ornamental top coats that would 1 serve as gowns.
 These coats were invented by Mime. 1 Cheruit, and some excellent limitations and notifications of them were produced in this country and bought by the hun 1 dreds. They were as ornamental as frocks, and they only needed white col lar or high stock of fur to complete l them.
 l So far, so good The appearance of a good looking gown was there. The warmth was sufficient for a chilly day in autumn. but the disadvantage came In when one tried to sit in room or shop or go to a concert or lecture in the cos tune that was made for the street. It proved hot and bothersome
 AGAIN THE YOUTHFUL LINES 1 The designers have reversed the situa- tion for this autumn There will be smart 1 looking one-piece frocks to be worn on the street, made of this material and
 
 if one needs added protection, coat can | be slipped over the frock without injury l to either.
 | These frocks are strangely ike others | that were worn a generation ago, and l they have a first cousinship to other | gowns that were launched at the races in i Paris in the spring of 1914 There is 8 I slim, tight bodied and slightly fuller | skirt gathered to it. That Is the gist of | the matter but each designer works out I the gown after her own liking. f One has even gone so far as to make 1 this slim, tight bodies of satin and the skirt of velour, and those who are not | opposed to throwing strongly contrasting colors over their bodies, will find pleas ure in wearing such frocks. The more conservative dressmakers keep to the one color and the one fabric, although they separate the garments by a deep line of demarcation. This line is placed a trifle below the normal waist line, toward which 1t inclines at the back CONSPICUOUS HEM ON COAT The best of these frocks shown so far is given in the sketch today. It is of olive green cloth with an immense cape collar of black satin and wide, capacious pockets placed on the hips. There is a straight line of gray bone buttons that begin above the waistiine and ends at the hem, and these are repeated in smaller size on the sleeves from elbow to wrist.
 It is very well to put in your note book the fact that bone buttons in differ ent colors from the frocks they are placed on, are to be considered in high fashion this autumn. There is no evil dence that they will be used ornately and foolishly trimming, but, while doing their bit, they will show up in strong color against an opposing background.
 The frock, as you see has a tight, fitted bodice with darts in it and sleeves that fit the arm from shoulder to hand, and although the skirt looks as though it had fitness in it, there is really very little width when one begins to walk. The attenuated line is spread out by the flat, deep pockets that have their olive green edges lined with black satin, to match the collar
 The bit of white that gives gentleness to the frock is in the straight chemisetts of tucked satin that goes under the re- vers and outlines the lower edge of the open neck.