Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1917-06-03

@Aol the short coat. 1t is made some
Aiiat Ike an old-fashtoned basoue
Win a short peplum that clings to
enc body, although it is cut circular.
P@qui1 introduced coat liz this la It
stti tldn which was excessively liked
by me women who had turned away
Rom the long coat, and it is probable
that with its revival for this spring it
Will gain Roadway before June.
Pa4uia, like Jenny and premet, uses
$40 unusually wide, loose girdle or
an gowns. She does not touch the
empire Waisrline, which nearly all the
other houses show in two or three
OF the best gowns of their collections,
and she does not go in for the medic
val girdle, which has not been relin-
quished by every other designer, but
added to the belt over the normal
Naistline.
Royant's New Coats.
The house Of Royant, which is not
as we'll known to the public as it
should be, but sufficiently we'll known
10 our buyers to have the fashions
brought to this country every few
months, has sent out an exceptionally
good looking coat to match each one
piece frock, 1t is a diversion from
the winte" top coat, which often
turned out 10 be a troublesome prob
lem, although as a garment it is we'll
nigh indispensable.
This new coat is like a cape that
has little fullness and hangs lifhply
against the body. It is slashed at
each side from the hem up to above
the knees, and the sleeves are loose
and bell-shaped. The only trimming
used, no matter what the color of the
coat, is a pointed, floriated design Of
machine stitching, This stitching is
by no means commonplace; it is easily
done in America, but it is very ex-
pensive. 1t is loose chainstitch that
must be perfectly done in order to
carry out the sharp, interlacing out
lines Of the design. Beige, string color
and dark blue are used for these coats,
and the material is sort of soft broad
cloth. The machine stitchery is in
black.
Royant has made great name in
Europe for one-piece frocks, or sport
suits, which can be worn on the street
with dignity. The best gown sent
over from this house is such a decided
contrast to everything we have been
wearing, that it was eagerly accepted
by the Americans who saw it.
The skirt is exceedingly narrow, is
laid in machine knife plaits and hangs
in plumb line from waist to ankles.
The bellboy jacket is In a straight
line from shoulder to hips, cut on
slim measurements in order to make
one look youthful, and its surface is
covered with this machine chainstltch
in OYSTER white. The sleeves are plain,
small and quite long, finished with a
narrow band of white satin that flares
over the hand, and row Of pearl but
tons that keeps it tight at the wrist.
From the bottom Of the Jacket comes
sash that goes straight around the
figure at the hips and is Topped over
into two ends at the back.
DriscoI and the Redingote.
Jenny is not the only important de-
signer in Paris who put out the red
ingote for the spring. Her house has
never relinquished the redingote idea,
but has played upon the one theme IN
different ways. .4.a
Paouin and Driscoll come back to
the actual redingote in the form OF q
slim coat with a slight curve below
the hips to show that the oval sill
houette. as the French call it, Is APP
proved.
:: Driscoll has always had high repu-
tation for coat suits and for whatever
is tailored, and he makes the straight
redingote which opens in front over q
narrow skirt of satin or crepe dc chlne.
as opposed to the worsted fabric OF
the coat, -. He also combines foularo
and serge and crepe and serge. (
q. The house of Driscoll is one OF the
few that makes afternoon gowns with
'full skirts. 1t is true that this 1ull-
ness is not displayed as much at the
hem as it was last autumn, but there
is not the straight, pull-down line that
the buyers feel Is entirely new and
will be accepted. q. +
downright, 1917, by the Mcclure NeWspa'
.