The Kennewick courier-reporter. [volume] (Kennewick, Wash.) 1914-1938, 1917-03-08

excellent plan to dynamite the hole
so as to open it up underneath.
In considering the depth to dig the
hole for the tree, you should be gov
erned somewhat by the size Of the
root system and the condition of the
soil. would advise depth of about
two feet under ordinary conditions,
and width of about 21s to feet.
Then when you are ready to place the
tree, fill in the loose soil in the bot
tom of the hole until the proper depth
for the tree, which should be planted
about two inches deeper than it has
stood in the nursery row. In this way
you have a nice loose soil underneath
the roots for their best development.
Be sure to have the center of the hole
slightly higher than the outer edge,
so that the roots will be in close con-
tact with the soil underneath. Some
people make serious mistake by leav-
ing the center of the hole lower, and
in this way there is an air space left
underneath, which is very detrimental
to the growth of the tree, often caus-
ing its death. 7rrs - s.a.. as.-
Now, in filling in the soil over the
roots, use the best top soil first, but
never, under any circumstances, use
manure nor any kind of commercial
fertilizer in the hole so as to come in
contact with the roots, as it will burn
them. You can place manure on top
of the ground around the tree after
planting, which will be great help
to protect it from the cold in winter,
and hold the moisture during the hot
summer months. IF more people would
practice mulching their trees after
planting, they would have better sue
cess with their orchards.
Before placing the tree in the hole,
prune back all long roots so as to
have them of a uniform length, also
all bruised roots should be cut back to
a clean smooth cut.
The proper height to cut the top de-
ponds somewhat upon the variety of
tree. The apple, cherry and pear
should be cut back to stand about 10
to "a inches, while the peach and the
plum should be cut back to about 16 to
1s inches. This top-cutting should lie
done after the tree is planted. Some
advise cutting back heavier, but at
this height one can start the limbs low
down, and gradually distribute them
up the main body of the tree, so they
will not come too close together, and
in this way they will make a much
stronger branched tree.
In filling in the dirt over the roots,
tramp it down very solidly, leaving no
air spaces. If planted in the fall or
very early spring, it is not necessary
to use any water to settle the dirt, al
tho not bad plan even then if con-
venient to do so. But if you plant
later in the spring, by all means use
water to settle the dirt around the
roots of each tree. When the hole is
about two-thirds full of dirt, pour in
as much water as the hole will take
and let it settle. After settling, fill
in the balance of the dirt, tamping it
lightly, leaving some loose soil on the
top for mulch to hold the moisture.
The first thing in the spring, as soon
as the water is available, run irrigat-
ing bitches close to. the trees and
irrigate thoroly. It is a good plan to
run a small ditch around each tree
with hoe or shovel, so the water will
be sure to soak all the roots well. Your
second irrigation should follow the
first very closely as your tree is just
taking hold and must have careful at
tention at this particular time. When
the hot weather of July and August
comes on, do not make the mistake of
blowing or throwing the loose hot top
soil up close to the young trees as
you are liable to burn the bark and
hinder the growth, possibly killing the
tree. Keep the ground as cool and
moist as you can around close to the
tree, and as stated before, if possible
mulch around each tree with some
good strawy manure, which will keep
the ground in ideal condition.
Do not fail to cultivate your irf4.