davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

The term philippine" embroidery
is applied very generally in reference
TO all work from Manila and there
Gbouts. In fact, this term covers a
portion of Manila embroidery too, as
a considerable part of the Philippine
work resembles the Portuguese style
OF needlework, and the Filipino wo-
men have become real artists in copy.
ing all manner of patterns and styles
of handwork. Their patterns are very
beautiful, and there are few wome /
who have lived in Honolulu or visited
here who have not purchased one or
more of these exquisite pieces.
We might really say that our trou.
bles begin with the purchase of a
waist or dress of this handiwork; as
possessing one does not solve the diff
ficult problem Of how to make 1t. Tn.
fortunately the makers of these erl-
broideries seldom vary the general
outline of their patterns. Year after
year the waists have the same iapeIs,
the same button-holed fronts with a
little piece on each side for cIlf.s, and
the collar embroidered so close TO
the fronts that oDe has to make a
yoke over the shoulder, lines in order
TO place the embroidery down where
iC may be sco1.
Many women fs6! that it is not ne
ces sary to use additional trimmings,
the handwork is 80 lovely in itself
AS beautiful gown must be given
certain deft touches in order to bring
out lines and curves-and all acces.
series to harmonize-just so much do
these embroidered pieces require-of
dainty laces and medallions. 1t seeing
a MY TO cut thGln, yet frequently
charming smart waists may be turned
out. instead of old-fashioned Mary
Kate" affairs by cutting into and sep
arating some of the embroidery.
Waists ill.,.
To make really smart" separate
waist of Philippine pattern, resolve
Immediately to cut away the button
holed front edges; they can be used
in making pretty cuffs. This would
bring the embroidery too near to the
closing so extra material should be
inserted to make the waist front, join
Ing il to the waist with Val lace or
.IhoCltIOuS Va HSI are
very good to trim, but net is fully
as expensive as lace, when the labor
and the cost of hemstitching is fig.
ured in,
Another way of introducing this ex-
ira front is to alternate clusters OF
tiny tucks and lace. The cuffs can
also be used as vestees, and they
make very effective trimming.
Looking up and deciding upon
waists shown in the catalogues of
waist manufacturers, is a very good
plan to follow for patterns, Something
lacy in the lingerie type should be
selected and followed as closely as
possible. If the embroidery interferes
with the running Of lace or clusters
OF tucks cut the embroidery away
from the material and whip it over
the lace or tucks. This can be done
very easily when heavy work con-
stitutes the pattern. When daintier
designs OF needlework are used, they
are more difficult to cut around, but
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

willis-How did the automobile &C.
eident occur? Gillis--In the usual
manner. The road turned one way
and the car the other.-Town Topics.
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11
NEW M'CANDLESS HOME
NEARING COMPLETION

The new Puunui home of Mr.. and
Mrs. L. L. McCandless is rapidly near
ing completion. The grounds and the
interior decorations have yet to be
modelled but the remainder of the pa
latial dwelling is practically ready for
residence The new home is situated
in the midst of an expanse of ground
en- a high crest and commands view
of both the valley and hills and the
ocean. 1t is expected that the house
will be ready for occupation within a
months time.
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

would not subtract anything from tn
praise that is due TO philanthropy but merel
demand justice for all.-Thoreau.
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

lace run right over the design and
the pattern cut out entirely beneath
it will make a waist more attractive.
Sometimes when part of the embroid-
cred fronts are cut away the little
pieces can be used for trimming the
back. When lace is used for a trim
ming the sleeve should be Joined to
the waist with lace.
Frocks
A smart white dress can be made
from one waist pattern by introduc.
ing a, part of the embroidery as a
skirt trimming. The circular chain
stitched line that is used in marking
the neck line of the collar can be
ripped out and the square or curved
collar used to advantage to make a
short yoke-panel in the front or back
of the skirt The cuffs make cunning
packet flags and can be inserted
lengthwise or crosswise in the folds
of the skirt.
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

The past is dead 1t is customary 10 bury
the dead. Keep YOUR eye on the future. There
is the main chance-Anonymous :
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11

l++++++++++++++++
Honolulu star-bulletin., 1917-10-11
"ToG TALKS"

y This article is number 13 Of a
y series Of papers on practical
= dressmakina and millinery sub
jects, with special hints on prot
= table buying for wear in Hawaii.
= This new department is being
4 conducted by Janet Walker, who,
y with several years Of experience
y in dressmakina and with a wide
y knowledge Of materials, patterns
= and values, brings to the work
= an unusually thorough equip
= nent. All materials described in
4 these papers may be purchased
y at the Honolulu shops and the
= aim is to furnish hints in an at
y traetive, readable form for the
4 women and girls Of the city whe-
4 ther they make their own clothes
+ in whole or in part, or buy at
+ the taiIors, the miIliners, the
+ dressmakers or the shops.
y Future articles-Snlsrt skirts,
y some new effects in bIouses.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
JUDGED BY HER PERSONALITY
Physical Tests Are No Longer En-
pioyed In Making the Selection Of
a "Perfect Woman"

The British perfect woman has been
discovered. She Is forty and the
mother Of FIVE children. There are no
statistics as to height. weight or bust
measurement. The physical features
are not the most important part,
though they are to be taken for grant
ed from an array Of social and spirit
ual qualities. Here Is what makes
her the perfect woman: She Is In
happy circumstances, living In q beau
tiful part OF the country, a few miles
from a big town. She is the center of
d good home, in which there Is a
standard Of cleanliness and comfort
and where good taste Is everywhere
visible, In furniture. carpets. curtains.
wall paper. ornaments and clothes.
And then the description goes on to
say:
The ideal woman is sensible and
businesslike and her home is a place
of peace. She is patriotic and inter
ested in politics. She takes walks,
rides, bicycles, climbs. dances, skates,
rows and plays games. She can ride
a horse and drive a motorcar."
Thus II Is the personality. not the
person. that makes the perfect woman.
One often sees where the grace and
beauty break through the fashion and
form and make even a plain person at
tractive. The latest test Of the per-
feet woman is spiritual, not physical.
Columbus (O.) Journal.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
INFORMATION ON BUDDING FRUIT TREES

We have had 30 many requests for
Information about budding fruit trees
mat We are giving directions in this
issue. as II is about the right time Of
the year to perform this operation. 1t
should be stated. however. that 1t
rarely repays the average man to go to
the trouble TO bud his own trees unless
ne has some special varieties or
strains which he wishes to perpetuate.
Trees may now be procured more
cheaply from reliable nurserymen who
grow them in large numbers than they
can be grown il a small way by anna
teurs:
For budding. two things are neces-
sary: first. strong growing sprout or
seeding not more than half an inch In
diameter from the ground, and sec
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

dissolved stirring occasionally Whom
well dissolved add a omar, 90 cream
and freeze
Cor, s,,te. r. . ,tr, 90 cor,
frasb nv o.,,., IA ,a,,aso,,s,, 20
t,,,a- OIL al, 49,, ,,,,v ., -,
riv wi,b ,wo ,ohIasnnnnr,Is 90 a.,
and a crn,u, ~ I'm, u.,,h ,o.snoon-
mi ~ sr,or col, rn,,, ,ha a. "a
u.au cool-',a "a. ~ 1t. &c 80 -,
o,5 .o,4 - 49, hi,o. ,aa.a .;s -.
os :, Co.'S ;n,o ,ha h,,,,a-ad ,a.;nr Jish
70 h.t. ,bi-,r minutes
c.. o.. r.,.
-, -,
-, az" . n".l uP.u. - ~
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

each tin and bake in a moderate oven
Tor hfteen minutes. When cold dec
crate with frosting II desired.
Date Tarta-Chop one cupful of
stoned dates and quarter Of pound
or citron. very fine. Add the grated
rind and the juice Of one lemon. one
cupful Of sugar and one egg beaten
slightly. Fill each pastry shell and
lay thin strips across the top. Bake
about twenty-five minutes in a slow
oven.
Grape Tartlet-Fill baked shells
with large sweet grapes which have
been rolled in the white of an egg.
then dipped in cranulated sugar.
Orange and Pear Tart-Line Il
baked tart shell with sections of
orange that have been carefully
peeled. removing the membrane and in
the center put chopped pears; either
fresh or cooked pears may be used.
Dust with sugar and garnish with mint
leaves and serve.
Lemon Tarts.-Beat the yOlks of
four eggs, add cupful OF buttermilk,
one and one-half cupfuls OF sugar. n
tablespoonful each of cornstarch and
butter and the juice and rind OF two
lemons. Fill and bake. then cover
the tops with meringue made from
the whites of two eggs.
Burberry Tarts.-FIl shells with
barberry jelly or preserves and garnish
the tarts with the ripe berries and
sprays OF barberries.
Cherry Tart. Line shell with
pastry. fill Wiz. lavn-s 2. CHERRY and
raspberry preserve. Sift finely minced
nuts over the top and dust with pow
dered sugar
currant and coconut Tsrs.-Line
twelve molds with pastry. Beat two
tablespoonfuls each of butter and
sugar 10 "A cream, add n beaten egg
and tablespoonful of rice flour; last
ly add four tablespoonfuls of chopre,i
coconut and bake. Garnish win cur
rant jelly and serve.
Fig Tartlets-Line s.hall patty tins
with pastry. Cut :. half a pound of
figs ~" small r.rces and simmer them
gently in a cupful and half of water,
add three tablespoonfuls of sugar
and then one Of lemon juice. Cool and
add two beaten egg yolks, half-cup-
full of chopped nut meats and little
salt. Fill the pastry pans and bake
In hot oven. Cover with meringue
made from the whites Of the eggs
and u little sugar. Brown and serve
hot or cold.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
LEGUMINOUS CROPS
AID SOIL fertility
Most Profitable to Pasture Land
and Then PIoW Under What
Remains of Crop.

Every progressive farmer now
Knows that leguminous crops are an
effective way Of maintaining soil fer
dlity. and for this reason the acreage
In them is constantly increasing. II
the whole crop is plowed under, how
ever, it is evident that there can be no
revenue from the land that year. 1t Is
much more profitable. therefore, to
pasture the land and then to pillow
under what remains Of the crop to-
gether with the manure that is left on
the ground.
Barnyard manure contains a large
proportion Of the fertilizing value Of
the substances fed the animals. In
the effect upon fertility, therefore, 1t
makes comparatively little difference
whether the crop or the manure 1t
produces is returned to the soil. What
difference does exist is much more
than Offset BY the profit that should
accompany the proper management Of
live stock.
All legumes make good pasturage.
and their use for this purpose Will
minimize the need for more expen-
sive feedstuffs. The extent to which
this is done Is one Of the great factors
that make for success In the live stock
Industry. The efficient use Of oil farm
roughage, such as straw and slower.
and of leguminous crops will provide
the farmer with much valuable feed
which may be said to cost him little or
nothing, for giving 1t to animals does
not materially lessen Its fertflizing
value, and under ordinary circum-
stances no direct cash returns are to
be expected from It
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

early summer and thc .u.,.ss r,cssns
from them TO the fruit.
On the fruit the disease first ap-
pears as a dark brown spot with q
still darker band around the edges of
the diseased area. The fungus spreads
rapidly through the tissues until the
entire berry is affected. Later the ber-
ries shrivel up and remain on the
punches as dry, black mummies. The
fungus remains alive during the winter
In the diseased portions Of the stems
or in the old diseased leaves and fruits
and the next spring the spores Of the
fungus spread the disease again to the
young leaves and fruit.
Control Measures.
Some varieties are more resistant
to the disease than others. On the
rotundifolia type the disease causes
serious damage to the leaves, but does
not seem to injure the fruit to any ex-
tent.
On the bunch grapes Qabrusca and
vinefora types) the disease is not very
injurious to foliage. but is very de-
structive to the fruit. Some Of these.
however, are more resistant than
others.
The disease is prevented by destroy
ing the old diseased leaves and fruit
and by spraying with bordeaux mix
ture. Where it is necessary to resort
to spraying one application Of bor-
ch hs. . he
leaves unfold and another as soon rs
the fruit is set. After this weather
conditions and the severity Of the dis
ease will determine the number Of ap-
plications. Ordinarily IT would be ad-
visable to make an application every
two weeks until the fruit begins to
ripen. You would use for these sprays
bordeaux mixture $3.50, except the
first application which should be g.
so, 1. e., pounds of bluestone,
pounds Of quicklime to 80 gallons of
water.
Preparation Of Mixture.
Dissolve copper sulphate In a wood
en- or earthen vessel and dilute to Is
gallons. slack quicklime, strain to re-
move foreign particles and Jumps. and
dilute to IS gallons. Pour the two 80
buttons together slowly at the same
time into a third vessel, stirring all
the time so as to insure thorough mix
ture. Apply at once in form Of very
fine spray with q good pump that fur
nishes 100 pounds pressure to the
square inch.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

ond, some well-developed leaf buds
from the tree IL is desired TO perpetu-
ate. For example. plums may be
budded on the sprouts which some
times spring up from the roots of an
old plum tree or on small seedlings
which have been grown from plum
seeds. The amateur should not at
tempt to bud one kind of fruit on an
other, for example. plums on cherries.
In the accompanying illustration A
shows the young tree or stock with
the bark cut through in the form of
an upright cross. This allows the
bark TO be peeled back as shown at b
for inserting the bud. The bud as cut
for inserting is shown at c. 1t Is cut
from the variety wanted by cutting
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

through the bark and just into the
wood about one-fourth inch above
the bud and cutting downward under
meath the bud and out again about one
fourth OF an inch below SO that the
bud has a shieldlike piece Of bark
and wood attached to II. AS the leaf
buds are found in the axis Of the
leaves 1t is convenient to leave a part
Of the leaf stalk attached to the bud
as shown at Y in the cut to act as a
handle.
When the bud has been cut raise the
bark and force the bud down under
meath as shown at D and tie in tightly
with cotton tape or better with raffia
which can be procured of any florist.
After ten days loosen the tie so that
1t will not bind the bud too tightly,
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
SHADE FOR WATER FOUNTAIN
Sun Warmed Water 10 Liable to causs
Disorders In Old and Young
foWto In Flick.

Sun-warmed water is apt to be the
cause Of diarhea in old and young
stock. Scald the water vessels every
day. and keep them In the shade. A
stoneware jug makes q good fountain
In hot weather. Tip 1t until the Jugs
opening is just below the rim Of an
earthenware fiower-pot saucer. Scald
frequently and put charcoal in the jug
occasionally. A mason fruit jar also
makes a good fountain.
In buying a drinking fountain, get
one which can be readily cleaned. Use
washing soda to clean occasionally.
and rinse well. A good sweetener II
the sun. Let the fountain get thor
oughly dry and summed once in 0
while.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

tings the melon cools. A portion to be
served may be cut and placed near
the ice for immediate use The cut
side placed on a plate will keep 1t
from spelling so soon. Lemons keep
well In a dish Of water; frequent
changing Of water and removing them
before they begin TO show decay will
save waste.
Vegetables containing sugar, as
beets and corn, lose their flavor very
quickly. the sugar causing fermenta-
ton. and no soaking in water will ever
restore the flavor. Corn at its best
should be served within an hour after
II has been pulled from the stalk.
MIX should be kept in a covered
dish in a cool place; never allowed to
stand in the hot kitchen.
Green vegetables may be washed
and dropped into a cheesecloth bag
and kept crisp; they should never be
soaked in salt water, as II willis and
ruins them.
Cucumbers, crisp and delicious II
properly treated, become like sole
leather after q soaking In salt water,
often causing collie and in some cases
death.
It must be remembered that the
foods rich In nitrogen. such as milk,
its products. meat, eggs and fish, de-
compose easily under the influence Of
heat and moisture, and most of these
foods then become, not food. but dead
ly poisons. causing illness that Is often
fatal.
Meat to be kept should be brushed
With an equal portion Of olive oil and
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
BLACK ROT IS MOST
INJURIOUS DISEASE
Trouble Occurs on Grapes Every.
where and to Some Extent
on Different Varieties.


The black rot il the mof common
and most destructive disease Of grapes
that we have. It occurs everywhere
and to some extent on all varieties.
Where the most resistant varieties
have not been selected and proper
control measures have not been fnsti-
tuted against this disease 1t has be
come impossible to grow grapes sue
cessfuIly.
On the leaves It causes q character
istic leaf spot which Is grayish-brown
to dark brown in appearance. In the
center Of these spots the small black
spore-producing bodies are formed.
This phase of the disease Is frequently
very destructive to the foliage Of the
rotundifolia or scuppernong type Of
grape and sometimes Ii found causing
trouble on the leaves Of the bunch
nape. These spots develop on the
leavss soon after they unfold In the
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
Nm. h~t~t4e
An Art Aphorism,

Here is an art aphorism from Jean
Francois Millet: II have been re-
preached for not observing detail;
see 1t, but I prefer to construct the
synthesis which as an artistic effort Is
higher and more robust. You reproach
me with insensibility to charm; why.
open your eyes to that which you do
not perceive, but which 10 none the les
real-the dramatic"
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

oananaS WIN
Jelly. Loosen u
section Of the skin
from a dozen ba-
nanas and arrange
them in a baking
pan. Bake until
the pulp Is soft
and the skins dis
cOlored. Remove
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

carefully TO remove all
ripe fruit. Berries should
always be poured out on
shallow plates or plat
tiers. Their own weight
brushes and spells them.
Watermelon. too large
for the ice chest. may be
wrapped In wet sack!ng
and left in a window or
draft; with frequent wet
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

and again in another ten days, remoy.
ing IL entirely in ten days more. This
is all that is necessary for this sea-
son. The bud will not grow this fall
but will remain dormant the same as
If 1t had been left on the original tree.
The following spring II II has been set
properly il will start to grow. The
stock should then be cut off as shown
by the dotted line SO that all of the
strength will go to the new shoot.
The bud should be inserted as near
the ground as possible so that the
curve in tie trunk of the resulting
tree will be near the ground. Budding
should be done during August or early
in September.-National Stockman
and Farmer.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

vinegar. or melted butter and vinegar
Will do. This will protect the meat
from bacteria and make II more ten
der and palatable.
In mutton or lamb, the marrow
fat. as well as the thin membranes.
should be removed II the meat is to be
kept at all, as those portions decay
very quickly.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

Reap this life's success or failure,
Soon shall things be unperplexed. and
the right and wrong now tangled. lie
unrayeled in the next
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
Bad Language.

.aThe kaiser is not much on spelling"
Yes: and when he uses the word
kultur' he IL as far wrong on defini-
eSos as BE- u on spelling"
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

be found a wholesome
one to give them
Caramel Ice Cream
Put a cupful of sugar
into a smooth spider and
stir until II is liquid and
a light brown. Beat a
cupful Of sugar. two eggs
and a pinch of salt and
stir into a pint OF milk.
Pour this boiling mixture
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

Charlotte
She
wounded This
VIII is eadng the mule
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23

The power men possess to annoy me
/ give them by a weak curiosity
No man can come near me. but
through my act.
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
MORE GOOD THINGS FOR THE
FAMILY TABLE.

Bananas in various ways make most
wholesome food and a pleasing variety.
o...... AS,~L
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
CARE OF FOOD DURING HOT
WEATHER.

Fruits Of all kinds should be kept
In cool dark place and have frequent
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
Tie KICHE
GBLNERz4zz44

II is always good to know. II only In
passing. a charming human being: II
refreshes one like flowers and words
and clear brooks
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
TARTs FOR OCCASIONS.

Line some patty tins with pastry and
iii with the following: Beat two table
Tombstone epitaph. (Tombstone, Ariz.) 1887-current, 1917-09-23
GOOD EATING.

For the children who are always
fond of ices and ice cream Of various
sorts tho following will
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1917-01-17
COLD WAVE IS
PASSING OUT
Rising Temperature PreSages
Era Of Slush For
Detroit

There is every prospect that the
weather Is going 10 thaw out bit
right away Already II is warmer
out in the state and the warmer
weather appears tol be closing in on
Detroit rapidly u is likely that NJ.
Citizen will need rubber boots with
in another a hours This isn't ola
cial. bat II Is a semiotllcial guess.
AZ . o'clock Wednesday morning
the mercury stood al ~ dcgrt e..
two degrees lower thgn at : o'cioc
Tuesda night Duun Tho mo-ni4t
IL had dropped CD eight decree
reaching that point at O'Clock, af-
ter which 1t began TO ciimD AN
mounted steadily degree an hour
II IL generally clear in this NnoA
borhood so there Is lttlc danger O
snow or rain for the immediate pres
ent