Bisbee daily review., 1917-09-16

the twills, wool jersey, wool poplin,
 broadcloths, stripes, checks and plaids
 about fell the story. They are used
 with satin and charmeuse, occasional
 ly fancy silk, or with taffeta, though
 the latter is hard to get and quite ex-
 pensive. Wool velours is too heavy
 for an entire dress, but is quite beau
 tiful with chiffon, silk crepe Or satin
 in side body and sleeves in a long
 body. Colors, too, are conservative in
 their range for street use. Navy blue
 comes first and is trimmed with
 scarlet, terra cotta, mulberry, French
 blue, or gray. Next in importance are
 the shades of beige from sand and
 dust color to olive drab. The lighter
 shades are particularly lovely with
 dark blue, mulberry or terra-cotta
 color. Gray is smart but it is never
 as good a color for the autumn as the
 spring. The dark browns, greens,
 plums and burgundies have few fol-
 lowers, but the dark blues and service
 co.ors will have the greatest vogue.
 The new styles are simple and call
 for little trimming, it must be in the
 right place and the right color, how
 ever. and almost all of it is done by
 hand. Embroidery in silk and wool, soutache braiding, beading that is dis erect in the demands it makes on your time and purse, are the French trim mings. Machine-stitching in rows and
 in contrasting. color is very smart and very inexpensive. Braid strikes the military note. Picot-edging anc machine hemstitching in a color that matches the dress or it's trimming
 .akes care of the collar, which is usually of silk crepe, chiffon or satin
 In the silk afternoon dresses one finds many of the simple draped skirts. tucked skirts and tablier overdresses on straight chinese lines. The bodice effects are quite lovely in satin and are used rather more than the straight cne-piece dresses.
 Satin is by all means the smartest silk material for the fall, and charm euse and crepe meteor follow It close ly, for they have the satin finish. For the softer styles crepe de chine, mes saline and liberty satin are very good. |
 Taffetas are rather hard to get, though one will find a few of them 10th in the plain silk and in the satin and Roman stripes. Most of the silk and satin dresses are made in part of silk crepe or chiffon cloth, usually in self color, for the combination idea is more often a matter of materials than colors. Even in silk dresses the sleeve : is usually long and the neck open.
 The newest evening colors are pearl gray. very delicate and almost ride scent, orchid mauve, Nile green, peri winkle blue, minuet green, Capri vel low and chartreuse. the deeper shades of pink, turQuois blue, deep blue and midnight blue for tulle, and gold. White and black are always used.
 Evening dresses call for very little trimming. Either the material or the cut of the dress is considered suffi- cicntly decorative in itself. Beading, especially in brilliants, steel, pearls of silver is very beautiful Flowers, rib Ions for sash and shoulders, corsage bouquets and metal embroidery are the trimmings most used. Il
 Evening coats ana capes are made in the same evening colors in the deeper and more brilliant shades. Capes are slahtly newer than coats, but one may have either. Evening wraps are made of broadclosh. satin, corded silk, brocade velvet, and are l mostly with fur.
 The war has made weddings even ] n-ore popular than ever. Certainly, there is more of thrill to them. The , brides look their loyeliest for their sol ( dier bridegrooms and the new order of ( things has not changed the convention of the wedding gown. White satin is still the wedding gown material per excellence. Charmeuse is also used and crepe meteor. crepe de cnIne anu liberty satin. Tulle net, point d'esprit and lace are lovely. Brocade is beau hful, especially for formal wedding when the bridal dress is made with a train.
 A new crime has been added to the decalogue: Thou Shalt Not Waste. It has become part of our national duty and international obligation to see that nothing useful remains unused. In re- gard to clothes, there is no hardship, , nor, indeed, anything unusual in this l new ruling. Every woman, no matter how large her means. should wear out ler clothes. The great French dress makers with all their reputation Tor have always insisted on this point. Next season you can do U SO and with it" they tell you when you r Duy a gown. II
 The first thing you should do this season is to lCok over everything you nave. Give a way the things that you ,an't make use of yourself, for they II will be a Godsend to others. Examine he dresses that are still in good con lition and would be perfectly wearable f they were given a little alteration md freshening. Making them over will save the money you would nave