Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-07-01
,11tl1ful Styles Are Giving Way to Sweeping Lines

beauty that could seemingly serve as q
scarf. veil or a flounce on a gown.
When they are put on the finger they
are quite enticing. and II is the opinion
of artistic women that they redouble
the allurement of an evening gown.
The highest artists in clothes always
contend that 1t is more lovely slightly
to Veil the skin than to leave it as il is.
and these colorful coats carry out that
idea.
Jade green. mauve mandarin yellow,
Vatican purple and American beauty
red are the coiors that are most free
quently chosen. AS green is the color
of the moment in anything from tub
silk frocks to Chinese brocades, II is
possibly wear il uses it for a trans
parent coat to ealiven dinner gowns
that are new. as well as those that
have given their full quota of service.
The best of these coats are touched
here and there with oriental embroid-
cries done in tiny crystal beads. Tho
effect is as eastern as the Tai
These coats were possibly suggested
by the tulle cape that is amazingly
popular. Tho house of Cabot has al
ways stood for the lace or cobweb tulle
draperies that swing from the shoul-
ders over the arms and down the back
of the frock. and here and there this
custom Of wearing a tulle cape was
adopted by women who were guided by
Cabot in most of their costumery.
Stage folk saw in the drapery
a good background. and more important
than that. an admirable opportunity TO
use their arms and hands in a grace
full way. But tho fashion. as fashion.
stiu hung fire among the people.
Now 1t has been adopted on FIVE
gowns out of ten, one can safely saw
Even gowns of dark blue tafreta. which
are offered as demure and sedate for
dining in public. have a square decol-
lete in front and dark blue tulle
stretched straight across the back and
| arranged to fan in wing-like sleeves
caught at the wrist. and in a sweeping
double panel down the back.
One gown of this kind has two
| Chinese circles done in dull gold to en-
| liveu it. One is on the bodice and one
on the skirt.
Among the many things violently dis
cussed among those who make clothes.
| is whether this summer shall be
stricken off the calendar by manufac-
turerS.
In the year 1916, when all the world
was fighting. as it is now, there was no
actual summer. Blizzards in New Eng
| land, ice in Pennsylvania and animals
perishing from the cold in the west
were the happenings of July and August
| in that fatal year.
| One hundred and one years later the
! apparel people insist that there is no
| summer in their business. and it will
go down into history as such. The war,
I the long-delayed hot weather, the I'M
certainty in all the shops. gave the
/ manufacturers and dressmakers a good
/ reason for not making up a large guam
tity OF summer costumes.
| So hot weather clothes are haphaZard
today. The striking feature of the sea-
son is the introduction of bingham and
| calico. Silk jersey has given way en-
| tirely to thin. wooden jersey. as the eX-
| perts said it would.
| Georgette crepe has taken the place
of chiffon. Taffeta has had a recrudes-
cence.
| Satin held its own for evening gowns.
i but dropped out of first fashion for coat
suits and the cotton fabrics. such as We
used to consider most ordinary. went
| upward to the very top in severn
| leagued boots.
| The well known calico designs which
have always been worn by the negroes
| of the south now rank on par with
! chiffon and wolfe The best dressmakers
are lending their talents to making ex.
| elusive gowns of this cotton fabric.