The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-06-04

The type of figure which many wo-
mon fonGly hoped would come back
to fashion. type which was exploit
ed and emphasized by Nine Jenny,
one of the best coutoriere- tha-
France produces for the American
trade, has not had any success in this
country Cr France.
This silhouette might be exagger-
atedly callel the one which FRITZ
Scheff shows at its best. In all the
years that this Viennese actress has
been in America she has not yielded
one inch to any of the fashions that
have telescoped themselves thru the
years. For over a decade she has re-
manned true to her own style, to her
own silhouette and hundreds of wom-
en- look upon her as the apotheosis of
what they would like to do. Her
waist is small, and her long lines,
even tho she is not tall, are compact,
graceful and never allow themselves
to round out into unbecoming curves.
She is always present in the mind as
the perfection of the Daughter of the
Regiment.
The Waistless Figure.
Even today, when the entire world
of women is trying to eliminate the
waist, no natter what Nine. Jenny
says about it, FRITZ Scheff is wearing
some of the most gorgeous clothes
she has ever exploited at the new
Palais Royal on Broadway. One feels
that these gowns express her individ-
uality, and one has a reminiscent af-
lection for them that is called out by
no other dancer. But there are not
many in this world who have the fig
ure of the little Viennese. There are
those who are waistless by nature,
and there are thousands who prefer
to be waistless thru fashion.
Even tho the dressmakers lend
themselves to the idea of a nipped-
in waistline and fitted gird1e, the
public will not have it Women who
are as thin rails and who could
squeeze their waists back to the sew
enteen-inch measurements, drape the
middle of their bodies with sash upon
sash, in order to straighten the line
between shoulder and hip, and others
have their skirts mounted on six-inch
inside belts in order that the line will
not be broken under the bust. 1t is
a waistless silhouette, manage it as
one may.
A Frock Like a Coat.
One OF the best examples of the
kind of frock which the smart French
women wear and which the Ameri
cans are looking upon with consider
abe favor. is shown in this exclusive
sketch sent over from the house of
Drecoll.
At first glance, one thinks it is n
coat, and why not? 1t has all the air
and Swagser of coat; it hangs loose
and straight from shoulder to hem.
and even its single belt does not re-
veal any curve at the waistline. The
material is beige serge in tine weave
that shows an almost imperceptible
twill. The negligence air of the col
lar, the comfortable placement of the
pockets ard the loose, three-quarter
sleeves, which are dignlfied sisters to
the short sleeves that appear more
frequently in every garment, are the
kinds of accessories We expect on
coats, but they are splendidly en-
broidere1 in a Rumanian design in
red and black flattened out against
the surface in the way the French call
lame. The vest, which does not reach
the neck and drops below the waist
line, is Of thin wolfe in the same tone
of beige as the serge The front of the
skirt is finely p1eated to it and IT is
finished at the top with a Lroad band
of the res; and black embroidery.