davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
Gowns Suggest
Operate Roles

trousers that looked as though they
were elongated envelope chemises, or
what the young girl irreverently calls
her teddy bears"
When have we ever worn the hat
made famous in our Indian countries
of America, with it's peaked crown,
soft brim and colored cords?
Since when have we worn clothes
made out of a single width of mate
rial that is caught at one shoulder
draped across the back, wound
around the hips, caught again above
the knee and left to fall on the floor
in folds that cling to the ankles? This
is That's and the Tanagras.
Since when have conservative wom-
en- gone about in the evening with a
gold band ON one ankle and a broad
gold band on the upper arm? And
when have women walked the streets
in the morning and afternoon with
Indian and Chinese chains dangling
from their necks?
How long has it been SINCE an as
semblage of women at the theater
gave one vivid impression of a
jungle full of tropical birds flashing
their long tails and wings in the air
"a suggestion which is given by the
myriad Of great fans made of pea
cock tails, of red, purple, green and
black ostrich feathers, of Chinese
sandalwoOd, of Egyptian frOnds, of
cOlored aigrettes?
Mind you, every one of these fash
ions is in evidence wherever one goes
among well-dressed women, and yet,
we assert that the season is dedi-
Gated to simplicity. 1t is, in a fashion,
but we must learn to place simplicity
on a pedestal that it has rarely &C.
cupied.
Miles of Fringe Used.
1t would be interesting to find out
how many miles of fringes have been
used for the winter clothes. To go
into detail a bit: evening gowns are
made of panels or straight widths
Of transparent material which have
fringes of gold beads or metal at the
hem; widely flowing sleeves for af-
ternoon and evening frocks have the
same kind of fringe at their lower
edges Of another kind made of jet
beads or sillen floss.
Wide girdles have deep, metallic
fringe for eight inches across the
front and back, or they concentrate
the fringe over each hip and let it
fall to the knees in irregular strands
A wooden frOck or a cloth coat suit
will have a girdle Of velvet or Indi-
an beads that drops slightly in front
and is finished with q fiat pouch OF
gay embroidery from which long, silk
en- taSsels and fringes drop.
On the hats that the milliners turn
out, the crown band is finished with
fringe at it's lower edge, or, reserving
it's simplicity until it gets to the side
of the hat, it breaks out into q
waterfall of fringes that reach tt
the outer edge of the brim.
Feathers are arranged to look like
fringes. Monkey fur and skunk are
slashed and combed and brushed I'm.
til they form fringes, and the peltry
is applied to evening or afternoon
gowns of chiffon and geOrgette crepe
Street suits made of khaki-coloreC
velOurs have immense, high collars OF
the days of the Revolution, and these
are slashed at the edges with pail
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

Of sharp scissors, to fall into deep
fringe over the shoulders. The girdle
is subjected to the same treatment,
and the sleeves hang in fringes about
the hand below a tiny band that
holds them in at the wrist.
If you are an economical woman
and want to provide the trimming for
your clothes in your own sewing
room, just get pair of sharp scis-
sors and amuse yourself as children
do on wet days in the nursery, by
clipping pieces Of fabric into fringe.
The children may do it for you in a
spirit of sport, and the task will keep
them quiet for the afternoon while
you prepare the rest of the gown as
a setting for these yards of fringe.
Copyright. 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicate)
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
women SUFFERERS MAY
NEED SWAMP-ROOT

Thousands upon thousands of women
have kidney and bladder trouble and
never suspect it.
Women's complaints often prove to be
nothing else but kidney trouble, or the
result of kidney or bladder disease.
If the kidneys are not in healthy
condition, they may cause the other or
gans to become diseased.
Pain in the back, headache, loss of am.
bition, nervousness, are often times symp.
toms. of kidney trouble.
Don't delay starting treatment. DR.
Kilmers' Swamp-Root, a physicians pre-.
scription, obtained at any drug store, may
be just the remedy needed to overcome
such conditions.
Get medium or large size bottle i'm
mediately from any drug store.
However, if you wish first to test this
great preparation send ten cents to DR.
Kilmer & Co., Binghamton, N, Y, for g
sample bottle. When writing be sure and
mention this paper.-Adv.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
State of Ohio. City of Toledo, Luca

State of Ohio, City of Toledo, Lucas
County-ss.
Frank J. Cheney makes oath that he is
senior partner of the firm of F. ]. Cheney
& Co., doing business in the City of To-
ledo, County and State aforesaid, and that
said firm will pay the sum of ONE HUN
DRIED DOLLARS for any case of Catarrh
that cannot be cured by the use of
HALLS CATARRH MEDICINE.
FRANK ]. CHENEY.
Sworn to before me and subscribed in
A. D. 1885,
(seaD A. W. Gleason, Notary Public.
HALLS CATARRFI MEDICINE is TAX
en- internally and acts through the Blood
on the Mucous Surfaces of the System.
Druggists, 75c. Testimonials free.
F. J. Cheney & Co., Toledo, Ohio.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
VALE LACKING IN VITALITY
No Matter How Well Marked He Ia
He Will Be Failure as Breeder
Best Time for Culling.

No matter how well marked he is,
4 cockerel lacking in vitality will be
4 failure as a breeder. While the
Toung stuff is growing up, and the age
IS unmistakable, is the time to Gull.
Later an early-hatched, stunted spe-
.imen may be thought to be a late
latched prodigy.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

New York.-A musician made tbs
statement the other day that If
women follow the fashions Of this au-
tumn, they will look as though they
were taking leading roles in we'll
known operas,
Aida, Anneris, Natoma, Lakme,
Mellsande and That's are the operate
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
PARASITES CAUSE OF WORRY
Hens and Chicks Worn Out With Con-
slant Irritation Are Apt to Sue
cumb to Disease.

Both hens and chicks worn out with
he constant irritation of the skin
:aused by the parasites, and the loss
If blood by actual sucking from the
issues lose vitality and are more apt
o succumb to diseases which would
otherwise be resisted.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
FIERY RED PIMPLES
That Itch and Burn Are Usually
Recommendations Quickly Heals.

1t needs but a single hot bath with
Cuticura Soap followed by a gentle
application of Cuticura Ointment to
the most distressing, disfguring
eczemas, feelings and burnings to
prove their wonderful properties. They
are also ideal for everyday toilet use
Free sample each by mail with Book
Address postcard, Cuticura, Dept. l.
Boston. Sold everywhere.-Adv.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
BOSCHEE'S GERMAN SYRUP

Why use ordinary cough remedies,
when BOschee's German Syrup has
been used so successfully for fifty-one
years in all parts of the United
States for coughs, bronchitis, colds
settled in the. throat, especially lung
troubles. 1t gives the patient a good
nights rest, free from coughing, with
easy expectoration in the morning,
gives nature a chance to soothe the
inflamed parts, throw off the disease,
helping the patient to regain his
health. Sold in all civilized countries
80 and 80 cent bottles.-Adv.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
Carbide Can Cremator.

the hole and may be then covered up.
In this way only, can one safely ham
die contagious diseases in the chicken
yard.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
A True Sport.

Doctor Ito anaemic patienD-You
must take an interest in outdoor
sports.
PATIENT do already, doctor! They
provide my main reading every day.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

The men who are lifting the, world
upward and onward are those who en-
courage more than criticize.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

Think so well before you speak once
that he who hears what you say will
think more than once about it.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

Solomon's reputation for wisdom
may have been due to his having orig
mated the habit of giving advice.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
Here and There,

Cheering the boys who go to war
is no good unless you also do some
thing to cheer them after they get
there. Exchange
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
Securities Salesman In yoGg7r . locality

porations financed and underwater by us. This
Is an opportunity to become connected with a
Banking House VIII 70 abillt, and integrity will
meet with rapid advancement Character refer
ences must be unquestioncble. Upon receipt OF
your application, we will 1end YOU record blanks to
bill GEBBIB d COMPANY, BANKERS Elmira, N. Y.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30
Bio Hat Shapes.

Hats are striking made up in big
shapes In metal brocade, trimmed
with fur.
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

A Kind Heart.
"Did your wife do anything for her
cold2"
Eyes, she gave 1t to me-"
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

Wanted Postage Stamps-Thoroughly reliable
buyer wishes to buy old postage stamps and collec
tons, stamps on original envelopes before 1915
especially desired Highest prices, spot cash. bank
references WALTER SWAN, 100 hAln st. BrAdford Has
Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-11-30

Here is Puritan frock in black vel
vet, with under-bouse and panel in
skirt of white broadcloth. 1t is made
without sleeves and held by a belt
that slopes downward at the back. The
white mouseIine collar has a bright
blue velvet cravat.
characters on which the French de-
signers have based their work for
this season.
Natoma is suggested by the distinct
lv Indian clothing that has come from
the great houses abroad and copied
and launched in all the houses here.
LaEme is suggested by the Oriental
. clothing with it's ancient coloring, its
dangling beads and it's glistening It's
sues.
That's is suggested in the draping
of the figure by folds Of soft material,
such as crepe and satin, the drapery
winding about the body and reveal
ing every curve and line without con-
fning the muscles.
Aida has her prototypes today in
the savage, primitive clothes, the brill
. liant blue and green necklaces, the
barbaric armbands above the elbow
and the uneven, fringed hem of the
skirt.
In Egyptian Finery.
Amneris is seen in the ballroom and
Mt the dinner table in all the splendOr
of her Egyptian finery, her heavy
banded head the large waistline and
the sinuous drapery about the hips
to say nothing of the addition of a
gorgeous peacOck-feather fan.
1t was a startling suggestion, this
one made by man concerning the
modern woman dressed for an opera
role, and the critic Of clothes saw in
1t truth that was both amazing and
interesting.
CHANGING over the moving films of
clothes that are passing the eye to-
day, one feels, in the light of this new
fact, as though one might be in the
salons of Marie Muelle of Paris, the
greatest theatrical costumer in the
world. Through her rooms flash all
the singers of the world. Her knowl-
edge of operate cOstumery, her SUI
perb handling of colOrs, her ingenuity
in carrying out the best artistic sug-
gestions to be found in the great mu-
seums and picture galleries Of France,
are well known to all those who live
in the musical world. Muell's clothes
represent the ages of the world; they
are colorful and superb symbols of
very powerful race that has passed
over the planet.
But what has the story of MuelIs
rooms to do with modern clothes
you ask. The answer is that you
could find the Inspiration for every
gown you wear today in those salons,
If you looked with an eye trained to
detail and accurate observation.
Modern clothes, which means the
clothes for this winter, are said to be
simple. We all know they are not In
expensive. And yet, even with their
simplicity, there are so many barbar.
&c and exotic suggestions that they
give a good deal of delight to anyone
who studies clothes from the point OF
view of color and personality, rather
than from price and serviceability.
When, for instance, have we had o
season so full of fringes as nowi
When have we had winter In which
six floating panels Of silk were
weighted down with Indian beads to
half conceal a pair of Oriental
The Nevada County picayune., 1917-02-08
Prepar atlon of Lsnd.

Though the cat crop in general will stand considerable rough treatment, there is no question but that tae crop will respond to good cultural methods and return proht according. 1y. \ fairly deep and compact seed bed should be prepared belore seed ing Frequently. on good land which has had wencared for eultiTatef crop the year before, q thorough do3- ble disking followed hy a section har- row is all that is necessary On land which is of a close nature and lack ing in organic matter it is better practice to flat break during the win tor and disc or harrow before seeding antil the land is in good shape.
 Time of Seeding
 The cat crop in general does best when ths weather is comparatively cool and moisture plentiful For that reason, the sooner after the cold win ter weather breaks up that the oat crop can he seeded. the better are the possibilities for securing good crop The time of seeding will vary in diff ferent sections of the State from early February in south Arkansas, 10 early March in north Arkansas Time of seeding is very important in the case of oats seeded a fhis time of year When seeding Is delayed in the spring there is great danger that hot sum. mer weather will not permit the grain 10 All out normally An early seeded crop allows more time for the plants to grow and get ready for such weather
 Seed Is best sown with a grain drill Tn order 10 save seed and secure a uniform stand If \ drill is not avail able good results can generally be obtained by seeding broadcast and covering with section harrow Re
The Nevada County picayune., 1917-02-08
SPRING OATS $
 ALWAYS SAFE CROP
f Is Easy to Get Started and Ma lures al a Convenient Time
 of the Year.

Oats seeded in the spring or late winter have always been popular with farmers in oat growing sections of the State. This crop natures at a yer2 Houyeaient time when the supply ot Iced from the preceding year is get anr low The crop always can be d.. pended upon to yield at least fair fe- turns at an opportuae time Further. more. Che crop k comparatively easF to get started. and the work car b. done at time of year when nothing else is pressing
 The value returned per acre is not as high in case of oats as with some other crops. Still when the low cost of production fs considered, as well as the fact that the crop is removed from the land in plenty of time for crop of cowpeas. soyheans peanuts, or oth- CT summer growing crops, the value is high enough 10 nake the oat crop profitable
 Spring seeded oats. compared with winter eats. do not. as a rule. yield aa much grain nor aR good quality of grain and uaHaty the growth of straw fa less On fhe other hand asts eeHd# d in the bring or iata winter ar" not damaged hH winter killing aa are more certain 10 give a raEaaa aa field where winter 8atH are likely 70 suffer On poorly drained sals and on fields subject 70 overflow. spring oats should therefore be given prefer.
The Nevada County picayune., 1917-02-08
NOTICE FOR PUBLICATION
U. S. Land Office at Camden, Ark
 January 6. l9I7.

|. $. Land Office at Camden, Ark
 January 6. l9l7. Notice is hereby given that BenJa man F. Green. of Gale, Arkansas who ,n January I2 1914, made Homestead Entry. Serial No, oe335, for the Sf quarter. NE quarter. Section }f, Town shlp l2 <. Range T W, 5th PrIH'Ipa Meridian, has filed Hotjcea hls uten tor ee maHa fiHaI Three l ear Proof, to establish clam To the land above de scribed, before the Probate Clerk of Nevada County. nj Prescott. Arkan u.s. 8a the l5th day of February l3lr Claimant names as witnesses:
 Monroe Hicks of Gale. Arkansas. l}ark NeBr.de, If Gale. Arkansas. ' ! Hay Of Calc. Arkansas
 Y. r. Carter. Gale. Arkansas.
 R. F. NEW
 Register.
The Nevada County picayune., 1917-02-08

t%=~r TWO and two and one-half bush els of seed are necessary with grain drill and three bushels or more when seeding broadcast The rate of seed ing depends 10 great extent, on the variety since some varieties have much larger grains than others.
 Varieties
 var*~tel tests Of spring oats show that carly maturing types give best results Rurt has always been a very dependable variety and seed can usually he secured al most seed houses The various Rcd Rust Proof varieties which are commonly seeded in the fall do very well When seeded in the late winter or carly sr1mg. ARct Rust Proof selection, known as Ful rhum. Whieh Ma tested fer the first time s T sprng oat fht5 pa~f season did exeep. oaallv welt. This oat b one of the earliest of fbe Red oats Cul berSon and Winter Tuf varieties should not b. used for spring seeding because If tAtir later maturity
 Harvesting,
 Tha greatest value per acre can usually he obtained Naen the crop ,s cut and used for hay
 If the crop is eat just is the heads begin ro tun the greatest value will be realized since the straw Is rrse7 st that tune and the whole plant ts ury pslatable and makes hiss saAI Sa~ s{ feed
The Nevada County picayune., 1917-02-08

WAkTEn-I haze =hare ca#z for same,..a steneRra ber- Rtu etiset a-sts ttfts ttau ean G
 Re.tattr with Ia and eTt one NJ charge btB \ A LEAN phone i6B prauEhAn 8 Busiu,s NulltEt ts1-
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1917-04-28
HOUSE ELIMINATES VOLUNTEER
SECTION OF ARMY BILL
CONSUMPTION CERTAIN.

Washington, April 28.-The house
today upheld the presidents selective
draft plan for raising an army of
100000 men for service in Europe,
eliminating from the Dent bill a pro-
vision authorizing the president to
call for volunteers and give that sys-
tenn a trial before resorting- ne
cessaTy-tO the selective draft.
The house vote was 279 to SO in
favor the presidents and the war col
lege plan to raise at once an army of
500,0O0-fOT service at some future
date in Europe if needed.
Miss Jeanette Rankin, first woman
to hold a seat in congress, voted
against CONSUMPTION.
The house cheered wildly as the
affirmative vote was announced.
When to the surprise of members,
subsequent announcement of the
negative showed but SO for the vol
unteer plan, the cheering and stamp
ing was reafening.
There was no record vote. That
will come later. The house when the
vote was taken was in committee Of
the whole. A roll call will come
later in the day.
Speaker Clark, firm to the last,
voted for the volunteer plan.
When the record vote does come
many members predicted that many
of the SO who voted against the
presidents plan will have switched,
tehreby making the vote against the
volunteer plan even greater than that
recorded while the body was acting
in committee of the whole
The Roosevelt division plan over
shadOwed all other issues in the SEN
ate today as the cOnscriptiOn army
bill neaTed a vote.
In the last hours of debates three
influential senators threw their in
fiuence in favor of the Harding
amendment to permit Roosevelt to
recruit a volunteer division. They
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1917-04-28

of the presidents most loyal sup
porters in either house agreed with
Lodge, but asserted that, while
Roosevelt was competent to COM
mand a regiment, he was not fitted
to lead a division. Harding pointed
out that Roosevelt did not necessar-
lily desire to lead the division.
In a scathing speech against pro-
Germanism, Williams declared there
are 100000 traitors in America.
Il want to weed 'em out" he said.
That's why want cOnscnption."
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1917-04-28

are 100000 traitors in America.
Il want to weed EN- out, he said.
That's why l want CONSUMPTION.
-O-O
BRITISH TURN GERMAN LINE
FRENCH CAPTURE 2o,78O
With the British Armies AfieId,
April 25.-BTitish troops have turned
the German "Wotan line" Half of
the village Of Oppy-believed to be
nOTtheTnmOst town of this German
defense front - captured today in
desperately hot fighting. ATleux, a
tTifle further north, also fell to ire
mendOus British assault.
Paris. - Since April 10 Gen. Nj
veIe's advancing French troops have
taken 20,78O prisoners and IT'S guns
including many of heaviest cali
bers-412 machine guns and 119
trench mOrtars. War Office report
ed French raids in several sections
and numerous German counter-at-
tacks all along fighting front.
-O-O
SPRINGFIELD TO BE DRY"
Springfield, Ill.,, April 28.-SaIoons
of Springfield will close their doors
at midnight of May 3. In a lengthy
decision County Judge J. B. Weaver
today sustained the demurrer Of the
"drys" to the wet" contest opinion.
The demurrer was sustained in ev-
cry particular and, though the
'wets" were granted leave to file an
amended petition, it is generally be-
lieved the sustaining Of the demurrer
will end the case.
The decision puts over 200 saloons
out of business.
-O-O-
Mrs. Pauline Jazdramski, 90, SOAP
Elston av., died from effects of beat
ing. Three women sOUg
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1917-04-28

Mrs. Pauline Jazdramski, 90, SOAP
Elston av., died from effects of beat
ing. Three women sOUg
The Mankato free press. [volume] (Mankato, Blue Earth County, Minn.) 1879-1924, 1917-03-09
ORDER LIMITING TIME TO FILE
CLAIM, AND FOR HEARING
THEREON.

State of Minnesota, County of Blue
Earth, in Probate Court
In the matter of the Estate of Daniel
Edwards, Decedent
Letters of administration on said
estate this day having been granted
to Moses Roberts
1t Is Ordered that the time within
which all creditors of the. above
named decedent may present claims
against his estate in this court, be, and
the same hereby is, limited to six
months from and after the date here
of; and that the 4th day of Septem-
Der, 1917 at ten o'clock A. NJ, in the
Probate Court Rooms at the Court
House at Mankato, in said County, be
and the same hereby is, fixed and ap-
pointed as the time and place for
hearing upon and the examination,
adjustment and allowance of such
claims as shall be presented within
the time aforesaid.
Let notice. hereof be given by the
publication of this order in The Man
kato Free Press as provided by law
Dated March End 1917.
EVAN HUGHES
Probate Seal. Judge of Probate
Thos. Hughes, Attorney.
The Mankato free press. [volume] (Mankato, Blue Earth County, Minn.) 1879-1924, 1917-03-09

E. T. Evans visited "a sfew days
among his children and friends in
this vicinity. 4ese itailE y
o. F. Jones spent Sunday with his
family, attending churehfiat Jerus-
allen. ebs
Tryphena Pugh is staying with her
brother Gwilym. lsl
M. j. Roberts of Iowa will have an
auction sale next Saturday.
Mr.. and MIS-. j. M. Jones and baby
visited relatives at Mankato last
week. .flr,
George Hahn of Illinois is looking
after his farm interests here. He
has rented the same to parties from
that state.
R. o. Roberts. and family spent
Sunday with relatives here. They
will leave shortly for their home i'll
the northern parts of the state.
Quite a number from here attended
the union literary meeting at Lake
Crystal last week. About twenty
parties from near Jerusalem won
prizes on different things.
Gwilym Pugh and Edward j. Roberts
and family wish to thank their many
friends who assisted them in their
recent bereavement and for the
beautiful flowers received.
Mrs. Hollander left for Minneapolis
last Thursday, taking with her little
Bernice Ann Pugh.