Crossville chronicle. [volume] (Crossville, Tenn.) 1894-current, 1917-05-16
CLOTHES LACKING
IN ECCENTRICITY

inc oQdi9nt Silnouctte.
Already the exclusive dressmakers
are insisting that the pegtop skirt, or
the drapery that Is pulled out at the
hips, is mediocre. The first fashion,
they insist, calls for straight silhou-
cite from shoulder TO heels without the
break given by the pannier effect at
the end of the corset
What is Known as the barrel skirt,
pure and simple, has few followers. but
the skirt with the kangaroo extension
at each side is admittedly the popular
success of the hour.
Against this skirt is the one called
Egyptian. which has been described by
all the fashion writer's until the women
know most that there is to know about
1t. 1t is the straight, anticipated
skirt dropped from the waist or from
a shallow yoke, and is supposed TO
have been worn by the fashionable AL
exandrians at the time of That's and
Aphrodite.
There is so much that is Egyptian
in the spring clothes that 1t should
not surprise the OnloOker to see this
straight, plated skirt win cat above
all others before June arrives. Bull
loz, for instance, has met with singu-
lar success in this country through
gown which he calls Aphrodite and
which was originally made for Mile
.Chenal when she sang the title role
in the opera last autumn in Paris.
Bulloz has changed the gown some
what, but everyone who was In Paris
last autumn remembers it. 1t Is made
of black chiffon in three long, Egyp-
tian tunics that hang Imply against
the figure, each one embroidered with
wide band of silver bugles in an an
cient design. The upper tunc is longer
than the rest and hangs in drapery on
the floor when dropped; but 1t Is skill
fully manipulated by the arm. which
can pass through long, embroidered
slit and drape the length of the Chif-
fon ana, silver about tho hnayr one
.--"~s. OnelIaI was given to the DOS
ture of extending her arm In dramatic
Gestures, bringing about somewhat the
same effect which she gave to the
drapery which made her famous when
she sang the "Marseillaise" in Paris.
With this gown goes tall Egyp-
tian headdress of fine silver bugles and
beads set on black.
Egyptian Touch In Wraps.
Another Egyptian touch in costum-
cry Is shown in the evening wraps for
spring. which are quite luxurious, but
light In weight and texture. Taffeta
is used for this garment more than for
any other. The wide, draped collar
which rises above the ears and folds
itself down on the shoulders Is the
preferred one, and it is used for street
wraps as well as evening ones.
None of this is Egyptian, but the
touch Of Cairo is seen In great
square of bullion-embroidered silk
which Is placed fatty against the back |
Of the wrap. On some garments it
Ooks as though brilliant ornate cush-
on cover had been picked up and |
neatly tackled at each of it's corners to |
he loose back of the taffeta wrap.
The Egyptian Phoenix wing. which
vas decoratively used at one of the
fashion exhibitions in New York, sup
1lies color for much of the new cos
The blue, green and coral of !
his symbolic bit of Egyptian life is
copied in gowns, and especially in jew
.lry.
N n % hn |
Cast, of Cairo and Alexandria reflected
n the clothes of the hour, it seems
probable that the straight, plated skirt
hat hangs plumb from the waistline
viii Outlive the one with the side
lrapery at the hips. But even if both
emain equal in value and fashion, one
hing is certain-that there is no
nance for the skirt with the wide hem.
'ince January, skirts have lessened in
width below the knees, and although
he public refused to believe that the
vide, fiarlng, umbrella skirt belonged
0 day that was done, the dressmak-
rs have insisted upon its use.
In Paris they diminished the width
f skirts gradually, but over here the
hange appeared to come overnight,
Though the prophets and experts had
cen insisting upon this revolution for
1rees months. The trouble with the
ublic is that 1t will rarely believe
hat it reads, but relies on what 1t
ees. This is good, sound wisdom, but
often keeps woman from being pre-
AIRED for change when 1t comes.
The shops have the canny business
istinct to supply the old with the ,,
ew as long as they've got both on
and but it is the duty of the reporter ,
} tell of what is coming more insist ,
atty than what is going.
Copyright. 1917. by the Mcclure Newspa
per Syndicate)
which, I