Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-07-08

! heeled shoes, puttecs OF the material
TO her knees, very short. pant
skirt, n khaki regulation mihrary
Jacket and the regulation cap.
Agoinst the background Of filmy
chiffon. strings of pearls. picture hats
and Oriental garb, she made c--
! lightful picture. She was the essence
OF simplicity, efficiency and trigness.
| within the month the desire Tor
the military costume has grown so
great that one sees all society wom-
on on errands OF war relief in these
! khaki outfits. Women who have
'con taking their lessons in ambu-
/ lance driving, walk thru the streets
wearing the fun. khaki breeches
which the uniform prescrihes. and
over their shoulders Is the null
fwirling cape OF the French ambu-
lance and aviation corps.
Women have long worn riding
hreeches on the street. covered with
n cape or a long top coat. and this
new ambulance costume creates less
attention In large centers than It
would have done half dozen years
ago; but even now It creates ripple
OF interest which is always attended
| by approval and admiration. There
arc no tests, no satlrical remarks. no
laughter from the men as these wom-
en- pass thru the ranks of people on
the streets Some of the Difference
! Is shown to them that is given to the
women with the Red Cross on their
costumes or the bassard OF mercy
on their arms.
II is a happy fact TO remember.
when one Is separating the segment-
OF fashion for this summer. that the
1SiO-60-70 fashions for women have
rot reappeared. They were ugly, fu-
tile and costly. Fortunately for us
In this season of cmbroglo. we are
not asked to wear frills and flounces,
streaming ribbons and roses.
Medievalism is severe, even II gor-
eeous at times The Napoleonic
fashions are economical. for they run
from what Is known as the First EN-
pire thru the Grecian drapery and
TO the Directaore severely And the
military is really costumery cut to the
bone.
The Struggle in Millinery.
The hats Of the hour are divided
Into two classes; the military and the
picturesque.
year ago the Introduction or the
Russian turban swept the milIiners off
their feet. Paris invented II as al
tribute to her ally. but France is not
feeling very happy about Russia these
days and this fact will probably
costumcrv by the French designers in
their semiannual exhibitions that oc-
cur the last Of this month.
Even after the Introduction of the
high Russian hat i'm Paris. II was not
generally accepted by the fashion
ahles on the Riviera, where Paris
fashions are first exploited these
days. America, however took up
the new hat with an enthusiasm that
was Unprecedented. II was "A difficult
turban TO wear, but that made no diff
ference in its sales At last the world
got tired Of 1t and the wide, Breton
sailor of Caroline Reboux was intro
duced and accepted.
No sooner had the miliners taken
up the idea of the wide brim and al
lowed II to grow wider and wider as
the weeks advanced, than the
entrance of America into the war
caused them to jump at the posi-
bility of army hats for women.
one exclusive milliner whose origi-
nations are well known on this con-
tinent filled his window with painted.
wooden heads OF women, on each OF
which he placed a cap that corre
sponded with one worn by section
Of the army at the fighting front.
In two weeks the women in large
centers were ordering reproductions
of these caps. When one goes about
among well-dressed women today one
secs the rakish cap OF the Black
Watch. the jaunty, pointed cap OF
Albert of Belgium, the white marine
cap of our own sailors. the khaki hat
Of our officers, all the caps of the
British army and navy and the allur-
ing cap of the French marines.
All women do not stop at wearing
hats that are in service in the field.
The milliners have persuaded them
to 20 farther and adopt the more
magnificent headgear worn in dress
parade. Tho strap under the chin is
accentuated: the tilt of the hat is as
square and straight as an officer
would have II and only here and
there does one see the jauntiness af-
fected ly the care&ree sailors who
pitch their hats at the most rakish
angle on the side of their heads.
: SO far. the only hat that has not
been brought to the front by the mil
liners, is the rough rider sombrero
made famous by Colonel Roosevelt.
That's strange, isn't it2
Ornate Collars and Cuffs.
Among the experts, whose business
in life is to study clothes, one con-
stantly hears the call for simplicity.
II there is to be economy, II must be
the price paid or the number OF
clothes purchased. The claim of GER
tain manufacturers that there should
be economy In the amount of material
used. because the use OF patch pock-
cts, hip drapery and wide collars al
lows n good deal OF patching and ex-
ira scanning, does not appeal to the
public.
IL has long been an adagc OF those
who know clothes thoroly that frocks
with frills are usually badly made.
but skilled workmanship is also de-
manded for simple clothes.
The present viewpoint makes one
believe that costly simplicity will win
out The American woman, in mass, |
will certainly adopt severe lines for
the next year, but, as contrast to /
these, she liz already making up her |
mind to use volumnious collars and |
cuffs.
The ncckwear people are delighted |
over this attitude. They are sh;nu |
lGting the desire by Introducing a
wide range of novelties. Collars are |
enlarged. until they reach the dimen-
sion of short capes, and cuffs are tax |
ing to themselves the appearance of |
quantities..