davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

1T is not reasonable to expect that the
sweater will 90 out of fashion simply be-
cause a dozen or more experts have in
sisted that its day was done and that fashion
able women try to find substitute for it.
Yet there is no denying that the sweater is
slipping bit from the pinnacle Of fashion.
It's price is not lowered and the shop
keepers tell US that the demand for il is no
less than usual but fashionable women, who
are the arbiters Of the fate Of each garment,
are contriving 20 make their sweaters look
like Russian bouses, or they are substituting
poplin coats for them.
The sleeveless jerkin Of velour or velveteen,
with It's pesr-shaped armholes and medieval
betting, is a formidable rival to the knitted
garment, with its wide SASH
The Russian blouse is in the ascendancy 1t
towers over all separate waists. Therefore,
the women who like it and arc bit weary Of
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29
Russian Blouse Sweaters

the usual knitted or crocheted sweater are
turning the latter into a garment that re-
sembles the former.
These sweater blouses are worn over sepa-
rate skirts, and one begins to see them, built
Of ornate materials and of high price, worn
at the restaurants for lunch, and even in the
morning in the shops, which are still crowded,
despite the weather and the season.
The sketch shows one of these Russian
blouse sweaters which has no fastening and
is minus the double sash which has been a
strong adjunct of every sweater for five
years. II is made of finely knitted thread in
brilliant yellow, and is slipped on over the
head by means Of wide opening at the neck.
The broad belt which holds the fulness. in a
bit below the waist line is Of yellow suede,
with two yellow buttons in front, each Of
which has black centre. This is a good touch.
The sleeves are put into drop armholes at
the top and into deep, tight fitting cuffs at
the wrist, and the sailor collar flows away
from the shoulders and dips down below the
shoulder blades in the back.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

knife leated or box-peated skirts Of cloth or
velvet.
One-piece gowns will have old-fashioned
dolmans of fur fitted across the front by
broad straps that wrap around the waist.
Capes of fur lined with velvet OF satin will
have deep waistcoats in front that hold them
securely to the figure, and the skirt beneath
will be plain or pleated
1t is definitely said that the extension at
the sides of skirts, which goes under the name
of umbrella drapery, will be abolished. What
is known as the melon skirt, or jupe tonneau,
will be dismissed as worthless. The exclusive
dressmakers with keen vision, who persuaded
their patrons to buy fiat, Egyptian skirts,
pleated from waist to hem, should now receive
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

n TOT every woman is an enthusiast over
~ green. 1t is considered dangerous
color. One of the traditions in mod
ern dressmaking is that few faces can stand
natures best color. Is it because art has so
much more to do with the face than nature
these days?
The truth is that pink is dangerous color.
Bright shades of dark blue are extremely try
ing to the skin and eyes, and several shades of
it should be put into the barred zone. wom-
an with wrinkles in her face has no right to
buy a one-pece frock or a suit of brilliant,
glazing shade of what is called dark blue. She
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

wv THAT the next month holds for US
w in the way of fashions not more
than two dozen people in the world
know. These are the French designers, who
guard their secrets carefully and establish
around their workrooms detective force that
has much in common with the French police
system
Women who wanted to sketch gowns that
were to be shown to the public in few days
have been caught and locked up in dark
room in one of these houses, as though they
we're common criminals caught in the act.
All the processes of the French law-and
they are severe and terrorizing to the
stranger-are called into being to punish an
offender who tries to get design of gown
from French house without permission.
There are leaks, however, from the great
French workrooms as we'll as from our de-
partments in Washington. Somehow, some
body knows the truth. 1t is an astonishing
fact that such department stores as the
Galleries Lafayette and the Louvre will have
the new models Of the season ready to sell
few days after our buyers have seen the
originals. And it is also amazing that the
minor dressmakers will give you on Friday
the exact model that great house has shown
on Monday. The natural supposition is that
what occurs in America occurs in France.
Those who are engaged in the workrooms sell
their information to outside dressmakers.
1t is for all these reasons that the French
houses are guarding their secrets this week
with the intensity that General Pershing
shows in guarding the dispatches about our
troops.
The things that we have been able to find
out are interesting. They may prove true. No
one can verify the genuineness of these
rumors until August is we'll advanced
toward September, but here they are for those
who want to know what is to come more than
what has been:
The new silhouette, it is said, will be slim
and tight just below the waistline, around the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

hips, and there will be no fare from shoulder
to instep.
Coats are cut to the hip line and are either
bound in with fur or embroidered cloth.
There is no attempt TO curve garments in at
the waist line. There is no attempt to fatten
the. fabrics against the figure in order to out
line the anatomy beneath. The cloth will hang
in a straight line from the shoulder to the
girdle at the hips, thereby giving a we'll
known Oriental silhouette that has come and
gone through the fashions in recurring cycles
Skirts will be exceedingly narrow for walk
ing. and for the evening they will be long and
in flowing lines that do not fare, but cling to
the figure in the fashion of the Orient
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29
What WE'LL Dressed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RT1ENE4(

II is in good taste to wear dark blus a..
and line it with red; blue and white s.,;,.,
awning skirt may carry red sweater abo,.
it, but the hawking about Of the natio,.,
colors in the very moment when they ar. !.
be baptized by the blood of thousands who a..
fighting for an ideal, and by the willing A..
riices of women who are pushing their M,
forward on the path of that idealsm, is to-
vulgar to be permissible.
There are other fashions, however, that q,
low the army, that have nothing TO do with n.
colors. The coat suit, for instance that b,,
West Point skirt and an Annapolis iaeL.,
fastened with brass buttons patterned arr,
those of the English Admiralty, is an =,
ceptable and agreeable bit of fashion.
The white duck tam o. shanters patterr.a
after those worn by the men of the navy. d.
dark blue flannel MILDLY blouses laced VII,
white cord and finished with white and Nm.
pique collars, have nothing Objectionable abou,
them.
These are fashions that follow a comma,
place road. They were expected as soon a, !,
h
ordered into uniforms because they war,
training for certain active sections Of war n.
lief work, but such minor fashions as the new
bracelet, the marine cravat under the cola,
of blouses, the little jeweled box for surs,
are caprices that are enlivening to Coz.
tumery.
The bracelet has been copied from thow
worn by our soldiers as well as by those Of
the Allies. You know, the men under the sss
must wear plaque on which is engraved Ii.
name and address of the owner, so that he can
be identified if dead or wounded. Over IN
Parissthey have taken up the idea through Tie
medium of jewelry, and our women are doing
it over here.
In these days of sudden and extraordinary
accidents, of continual transportation from
one side Of the continent to the other, it is not
an unintelligeat thing to do to wear BIT Of
jewelry fastened to the arm which will
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

low one. The decolletage that is expected is
the straight Italian line of the fifteenth cen.
fury, used in mems costumery as well as
women's.
In opposition to this is the high, straight
collar that does not fit under the chin, thereby
causing an ugly roll of flesh, but flares up
ward and outward. 1t is the collar that Sarah
Bernhard made famous more than quarter
of a century ago.
These collars are shown on shirtwaists
and on the bodces of formal and informal
frocks. The immense handkerchief collar of
the Revolution will be put on coats so rumor
says, and the deep, delta decolletage adopted
in the American Revolution will be used on
dinner and restaurant gowns.
No cable from Paris excludes the word fur,
If one can judge by these forerunners of what
is to happen such as rumors, personal letters
and cables, the animal world will be sacrificed
to clothe women. No one can tell where all
the skins come from, but it is said that in
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

to be possibly near. Literally, half mile or
so Of gold and silver brocade has been woven
and is now held in reserve for the celebration
of peace. This weaving represents the very
highest pinnacle of the craftsmanship of the
master weavers of Lyons
1t is said in exclusive circles that the pur-
chase of all Of this brocade has been arranged
for by dressmakers and individuals of power
and prestige in Paris.
Another new silk which was shown at
Lyons, and which is said to be very beautiful
is called La SoleiI de la Victoire 1t is so emf
nently French for its workers to reflect their
hopes their sacrifices and their faith in terms
Of fabrics and women's clothes
1t is no longer considered in good taste to
wear anything that resembles the American
flag. That unfortunate episode in our ma
tional costumery has passed by.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

a letter Of gratitude,
because, it is said,
t h e S e Alexandrian
garments ill re-
main at the height
of fashion and what
ever has a bulge in
it will be out of the
picture.
A fashion reporter
who was at the re-
markedly successful
fabric exposition re-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

They show tightening at the hip line
and an absence of all flare. Lines fall
straight from shoulder toheel; as they
do in Burne-Jones's angels -Brocade
manufactured in Lyons forMme. Poin-
care, to be worn when peace is de-
cIared. The new design in silk from
Paris is called the Sun of Victory
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29
MEL

identify one. In France it is called the
plaque d'identite."
There is brand new color heralded BY
Paris, which has nothing to do with the army
or navy. 1t dips back into the archives Of the
dear, dead past. This color is terra Gotta, snd
the cables from Paris tell US to expect it in
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

Paris every designer
is lavishing fur on
costumery as though
it were as plentiful
as grass.
The few coat suits
that will be shown,
so the cables say,
will be half fur and
half cloth. Entire
short coats of fur,
bound around t h e
hips in the new way,
will be offered with
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29
Predominant Features of New Fashionable Silhouette

Sweaters are being gradually trans
formed into Russian blouses-Green
shows promise of coming into its own
asafashionable color, now thatthe Chi
nese have shown it's possibilities, and
women are abandoning the supersti-
ton that it is the most trying of all col
ors-Callot introduces flamingo color
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

House gowns and evening gowns will touch
the floor and cover the toes in front, swirl
ing out into greater length at the back.
The high collar, it is said, will replace the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

is declared will be
{ h e circumstance
that will unlock the
case where this bro
cade is kept. Nine.
Poincare will receive
it as a gift from
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

Lyons, and some great dressmaker will pre-
pare it.
This piece of cloth is not the only evidence
of what the manufacturers of Lyons believe
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-29

France, gives a bit Of most interesting news
concerning the introduction Of brocade. 1t
is this; That the most exquisite brocade with
an unusual design has already been made at
Lyons by Nine. Poincare, the wife Of the Presi-
dent of the French Republic, to be worn when
peace is declared
This brocade is closely guarded and its de-
sign is not allowed to be copied. Whatever
celebration France expects to have when peace
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18

Toothpicks have advanced % per
cent since the war, but the need
for toothpicks has gone down as the
cost of living has gone up.
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18
THE LION AND
THE LAMB LIE
DOWN TOGETHER

The experiment has been tried be-
fore and Oakland's effort will be
watched With interest by both Cap
itaI and Labor. That all industrial
factors should work together for the
commonwealth most men will agree,
and this Oakland movement sounds
like the Oakland Chamber Of Com
merce and the labor unions are try
ing 10 work in harmony for their
own and the public welfare.
The Oakland chamber seems to
have profited by the example Of the
Chamber Of Commerce across the
bay, which is nothing if not graft
ers' association, murderbund,
an open shop club and an all-around
aggregation Of grab-it all gangsters.
The likes of it are found all over
the country, and Everett is within
the country.
The Oakland labor organizations
have shown a disposition to coop
crate with upright employers or
any organization showing a DISPOSE
ton to tote fair.
The following plan of coalition OF
the Oakland commercial organiza-
ton and the Oakland labor unions
was received by the Journal last
week with the compliments of the
Oakland Chamber of Commerce.
If the Commonweal Committee
will confine itself to the attainment
of the objects set forth in the fol
lowing letter the Journal wishes i
success. Following is the letter:
No more strikes or lockouts, 81
end of boycotting and blacklistini
by the establishment of industrial
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18

No. 1876.
ORDER FIXING TINE OF HEAK,
ING RECEIVERS FIRST REPORT
AND DIRECTING NOTICE
THEREOF
In the Superior Court of the State
of Washington, in and for Snoho-
mish County.
Henry Anderson, Plaintiff,
VS..
B. H. NJ. Lumber Co.. Defendant.
D. o. Pratt, the receiver OF the
above named defendant, having filed
in this proceeding his first report,
setting forth in detail, his receipts
and disbursements as such receiver,
a list of all claims of creditors filed
and the amounts of which ne RECON-
mends each of the same for allow
ance, the facts with reference TO the
assets of the defendants as yet not
realized upon, and generally all ms
acts and doings pertaining to SAID
receivership,
Now. on motion of Baxter &
Jones. attorneys for said receiver,
it is
ORDERED, that the 10th day OF
Nav. 1917. at 1870 o'clock P M, be
and the same is hereby fixed as
time for a hearing on said report,
and said creditors of said defendant
directed to show cause, IT any they
have. before the above entitled court,
Department No. 2 thereof, at the
Court House in the City of Everett,
at said time, why said report and the
matters therein set forth should not
he approved as filed, and said cred
itors claims allowed according to the
recommendation of said receiver and
why a 500 dividend should not be
paid at this time on the labor claims,
and said receiver and his attorneys
be made an allowance for their ser.
vices, and generally why the relief
prayed for in said report should not
be granted; and it is further.
ORDERED, that notice to the
creditors of said defendant OF sad
hearing be had by publication OF this
order in the Labor Journal" a
newspaper of general circulation in
the County of Snohomish, State OF
Washington, for two successive
weeks, commencing not less than ten
(1O) days prior to such hearing, and
that notice to preferred creditors be
had by mailing to said creditors
copy of said report not less than ten
10) days prior to such hearing, TO-
gether with a copy of this order. =,
Dated, Everett, Washington, April
Goth, 1917.
RALPH c. BELL,
Judge
First publication May A, 1917.
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18
Unfair List
BARBER SHOPS

BARBER SHOPS
I. H. Turner, 1104 Hewitt; William
Whitaker, Lowell; Barnhart Shop
Monroe; Independent, 1907 Hewitt.
BUILDING LABoRERS
Peter Jackson, l.. Starke, Emil Nit
tersbach, E. Cloke, John Grant.
BUILDINGS
1412 Grand, 1917 Hewitt.
CARPENTERS
Joe Erickson, r. B. McAdams, Ru
dolph Hartman and his building, Colby
avenue, between Twentieth and Twen
Tyner, Olaf Larson and N. E. Butts.
ELECTRICIANS
F. r. Hare, Jack Shields, electrical
contractors; Globe Wall Paper CO..
electric department; w. E. Bennett.
FISH COMPANIES
San Juan Fish Co., Seattle.
IRON WORKS
Sumner Iron Works.
LUNCH COUNTERS
Princes Fountain Lunch
PAINTERS
William Christensen, NJ Koken
Globe Co, L. L. Swartz, H. E. Mann
H. Patzman, H. 0. Johnson, r. J
McGregor. J. c. Jensen, Carl Steen,
r. D. Garner.
PLAsTERERs
A. c. Wright, A. L. Knapp, Booth,
Tom Nygard, ". L. Porter.
PLUMBERS
c. R. Schweitzer, ". J. Callahan,
Otto Mertz and Globe Wall Paper Co s
plumbing department; Ben Johnston
and house, 1902 Colby avenue.
STORES
E.JLong, grocery store. Nineteenth
and Virginia: Ridgvay Grocery Co
and his building At 24o6 Colby avenue.
TAiLORS
Scotch Woo.e1 Mills. 1874 Hewitt.
TRANSFERS
c. J. Witt. stand corner Colby and
Hewitt; c. = Worth.
MISCELLANEOUS
c ". Anguish, 35Q5 Lombard :;
American Packing Co. Everett; Cal
Smiley and son; Fitz Gerald.
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18
NOTICE OF SHERIFF'S SALE OF
REAL ESTATE


Sheriff's Office, State of Washington,
County of Snohomish, SIS.
By virtue of an Order of Sale issued
out of the Honorable Superior Court
of Snohomish County, on the Both day
of April, 1917, by the Clerk thereof,
in the case of D. j. Shelter and VIM.
Shelter, her husband, VS.. VIM. Major,
single; Jennie E. Faussett and Charles
A. Faussett, her husband; Sarah Sher-
blom, formerly Sarah Galbreith, and
Walter Sherblom, her husband; j. E.
Andrews; Frank Countryman; and
Charley Stribling, bachelor; Walter
M. Fadden and Charlotte E. Fadden,
his wife.
No. 1896, and to me as Sheriff,
directed and delivered:
NOTICE is HEREBY GIVEN, That
l will proceed to sell at public auction
to the highest bidder for cash, within
the hours prescribed by law for Sher-
ifs Sales, to-wit: at 1000 o'clock
a. M, on the End day of June, A. D.,
1917, before the Court House door of
said Snohomish County, in the State
of Washington, all of the right, title
and interest of the said defendants
above named in and to the following
uSoSi ibSu PlopSIby, SitudISu III Oilo-
homish County, State of Washington,
to-wit:
Beginning at the Southeast corner
of the SWA of Section 4, Township
20, North Range E. w. M. running
thence West along the section line 10
rods, thence north rods 51a feet,
thence East to East line, thence South
to place of beginning, containing l
acre situate in the SEA of SWA
section 4, township 20, N. R. 6 E. w.
NJ; together with all and singular
the tenements, Entertainments and ap-
purtenances thereunto belonging or
in anywise appurtaining.
Levied on as the property of said
defendants above named to satisfy
judgment amounting to Two hundred
and Thirty (S230.O0) Dollars and
costs of suit, in favor of plaintiff.
Dated this End day of May, 1917.
JAMES McCULLOCH,
Sheriff.
BY Harry L. Jones, Deputy.
VIM. SHELLER, Everett, Wash,
Attorney for Plaintiff
First publication, May 4, 1917.
Last publication, May rs, 1917.
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18

that said estate is now in condition
to be closed and is ready for distri
button of the residue thereof among
the persons entitled by law thereto,
and it appearing to the court that
said petition sets forth facts suffi-
cient to authorize a distribution of
the residue of said estate:
TITS THEREFORE ORDERED by
the court that all persons interested
in the estate of the said Benjamin
F. Case, deceased, be and appear be-
fore the said Superior Court of Sno-
homish County, State of Washington,
at the court room of the Probate De-
partment of said court on the 18th
day of May, 1917, at the hour of $3.50
o'clock a. m. of said day, then and
there to show cause, if any they
have, why said final account should
not be allowed and an order of dis
tribution be made of the residue of
said estate among the heirs and per-
sons in said petition mentioned, &C
cording to law.
1T is FURTHER ORDERED, that
copy of this order be posted in
three of the most public places in
Snohomish County, for period of
four weeks prior to said hearing and
published once week for four con-
secutive weeks before the said 18th
day of May, 1917, in the Labor Jour
nal, newspaper printed and pub
lished in said Snohomish County and
of general circulation therein.
Done in open court this 4th day of
April, 1917.
RALPH C. BELL,
Judge.
STATE OF WASHINGTON,
County of Snohomish-ss.
l, Charles H. Fickel, County Clerk
of Snohomish County and ex-officio
Clerk of the Superior Court of the
State of Washington, for the County
of Snohomish, do hereby certify that
the foregoing is full, true and cor
rect copy of an original order to
! show cause, made by said Court on
the 4th day of April, 1917, in the
! matter of the estate of Benjamin F
Case, deceased.
Witness my hand and the seal of
said Court this 4th day of April
1917.
| CHAS. H. FICKEL,
| Clerk
Date of first publication April 10, II
The labor journal. [volume] (Everett, Wash.) 1909-1976, 1917-05-18
First publication May a, 1917.
No. 1924.
Order Fixing Time to Hear Final Ac-
count and to Show Cause Why
Distribution Should Not
Be Made.

In the Superior Court of the State of
Washington, for the County OF
Snohomish.
IN PROBATE.
In the Matter of the Estate OF
Benjamin F. Case, Deceased.
Lucy R. Case, Administrative OF the
estate of Benjamin F. Case, deceased,
having filed in this court her final
account and petition setting forth