Judsonia weekly advance., 1917-09-05

| enthusiasm, but if skirt is to be ex- | ceedingly narrow, it cannot be long. It would be too utterly inconvenient for women who are plunged into a series of activities.
 Jackets of Two Kinds.
 It has already been announced that two kinds of jackets will prevail in the autumn. One Is hip-length and one is hem-length. The latter is called polonaise and the former is called jacket.
 The revival of the polonaise is merely a contribution to the fashion for top coats. One can use polon- aise over any kind of skirt and blouse, and if it is lined in the colorful and interesting way that prevails among tailors today, it presents itself as a garment of rare merit.
 The short jacket, however, as 1t will be worn this autumn, is bit of eostumery that is taken by the back of the neck and pulled out of the fam fly album.
 Whether or not the peculiar vaude- vile trick of presenting a family album in song and living pictures, which has spread over New York through the success of one of the musical revues of the season, was the predecessor of this short, tight jacket, nobody can tell, It is a far-fetched idea, no doubt, but don't you think it is rather interesting that the stage folk should get up family album scene that runs through vaudeville fashions as dancing does, and that, now, suddenly, that coat and skirt should be launched into costumery?
 One of these jackets which will un- doubtedly prove a success because 1t has been issued by dominant house, has little hustle all its own It be- longs to a skirt that is quite narrow, and it has a bit of an upward pull from knees to waistline at the back q pull so slight that it is not always noticeable.
 The jacket fits the figure, curves in to the waistline at the back and then flares out into series of folds that give the hustle effect. It Is buttoned In a straight line down the front. There is band of velvet above the hem of the coat. The buttons are covered with the wine-colored velour that makes the suit. The collar Is very high, soft in it's folds, rolls over backward to the neck line and Is trim med with band of velvet
 Fasten From Chin to Hem.
 Revers are abandoned by the tailors and dressmakers. Where one coat will have them, sixteen others will be fastened in a straight line fr0ms the chin to the lower edge. All the col lars are high, but soft and enveloping the neck and chin In the manner that was considered correct in the eight eenth century.
 Mind you, this style Is not the only powerful note in fashion that is brought out for jackets. It is one of several other details, and woman will have the chance to accept what she wishes.
 This latter situation will be the hope and the downfall of many wom- en. Left to themselves to choose among q heterogeneous mass of ma teriai, the best minds will grow con fused and go wrong. On the other hand, highly trained judgment will give to women the chance to express their Individuality and look little unlike their neighbors.
 It may be said, however, that the coat that fastens in a line down the front, the buttons running straight through the high, rolling collar, will be the most noticeable change in street costumery that will take place in the fall.
 The narrow skirt has already been accepted here and there, and there are hundreds of women who have never given it up, so its widespread accep- tance will not cause quite the same ripple of interest that will be given by this family album coat with it's upward tilt at the back, its point iA front, it's long, slim waistline under the arms, and its row of colored buttons on which one will be tempted to say the old nursery rhyme, "RichmAn, poor man. beggarman, thief"
 (Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Newspa-
 Der Syndfcate)