New Mexico state record. (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1914-19??, 1917-09-07
BUSTLE EFFECT
IN FALL LES

tive women adopted the fashion With
enthusiasm. but If n skirt is to be ex.
ceedingly narrow, 1t cannot be long.
1t would be too utterly inconvenient
for women who are plunged into o
series Of activities.
Jackets Of Two Kinds.
1t has already been announced that
two kinds of jackets will prevail in
the autumn. One is %hip-length and
n Is h%em-length. The latter Is
called a pOlonaise and the former IL
called a jacket.
The revival of the polonaise Is
merely Il contribution to the fashion
for top coats. One can use n polOn-
aise over any kind of skirt and blouse,
and If it is lined in the cOlorful and
interesting way that prevails among
tailOrs today, it presents itself as u
garment of rare merit.
The short jacket, however, as II
will be worn this autumn, Is a bit Of
cOstumery that Is taken by the back
of the neck and pulled out of the FAM
lily album.
Whether or not the peculiar yaude.
vile trick Of presenting n family
album In sons and living pictures,
which has spread over New York
through the success of one of tho
musical revues of the season, was the
predecessor of this short, tight jacket,
nobody can tell. II is Il far-fetched
idea, no doubt, but don't you think il
Is rather interesting that the stage
folk should get up a family album
scene that runs through vaudeville
fashions as dancing does, and that,
now, suddenly, that coat and skirt
should be launched into costumery?
One of these jackets which will un-
doubleday prove a success because IL
has beer issued by Il dominant house
has a little hustle all its own. 1t be-
longs to a skirt that is quite narrow
and it has II bit of an upward pull
from knees to waistline at the back
II pull so slight that 1t is not always
noticeable.
The jacket fits the figure, curves IN.
to the waistline ut the back and then
flares out into a series of folds that
give the hustle effect. 1t is buttOned
in n straight line down the front.
There is u band Of velvet above the
hem Of the coat. The buttons are
covered with the wine-cOlored velour
that makes the suit. The collar is
very high. soft in its folds, rolls over
backward to the neck line and is trim
med with a band of velvet.
Fasten From Chin 70 Hem.
Revers are abandoned by the tak.ars
and dressmakers. Where one coat
will have them, sixteen others will be
fastened in a straight line from the
chin to the lower edge. All the COT
lars are high, but soft and en~veloping
the neck and chin In the m;lnner that
was considered correct in the eight
zenith century.
Mind you, this style Is not the only
powerful note in fashion that is
brought out for jackets. 1t is one OF
several other details, and a
will have the chance to accept what
she wishes.
This latter situation will be the
hope and the downfall of many wOm-
en-. Left to themselves to choose
among Il heterogeneous mass of ma
terial, the best minds will grow con
fused and go wrong. On the other
hands highly trained judgment will
gives TO women the chance to express
their individuality and look a 'ttle
unlike their %neighbors.
1t may be said, however, that the
coat that fastens in a line down the .
front, the buttons running straight
through the high. rolling collar, win
be the most noticeable change In,
street costumery that will take place
In the fall.
The narrow skirt has already been,
accepted here and there, and there are
hundreds of women who have never
given it up, so its widespread accep-
lance will not cause quite the anne
ripple of interest that will BE- given by
this family album coat with its upward
tilt at the back, its point in front, it's
long, slim waistline under the arms,
and its row of colOred buttons on
which one will be tempted to say the
old nursery rhyme, "Richman, poor
man, beggarman, thief
1917. by the Mcclure Newspa--
per Syndicate)
The ShirtWaist Dress.