davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

/ els the Russian blouse asserts an OBJ
uurate tavoritism. All OF the shops
are onering models OF surprising var.
lety. Cottons, linens, crepes, taffetas
satins, khaki, Khaki kool, Jerseys. sill,
poplins serges and other twills, fan.
nels, homespuns, tweeds-there's no
end to the materials used by the de.
signers, and the models, OF course. vary
with the stuifs.
The mania Of recent seasons for
stripes appears to have subsidized con.
siderably, but in making up one-piece
irocks clever management employs
stripes In effective borders. A fetch
ing model for summer Is fashioned OF
cotton wolfe trimmed with satin striped
taheta arranged In a band on the
lower edge Of the skirt. At either side
Of the front Of the waist there also is
a band Of the silk and It extends below
the waisthne where II Is turned back
to form hanging pockets. A collar of
self-material bound with taffeta finish.
es the square neck, while the sleeves
are gathered into deep cuffs Of striped
SILK. Black velvet ribbon forms the
narrow belt.
There is captivating new Russian
blouse that extends almost TO the hem
OF the skirt over which Il is worn. It's
long lines permit the introduction OF
tucks and plaits to regulate in more
artistic fashion the fulness usually
left to the confines OF belt. Above the
plaits there must be some kind Of a
! finish. so the smart designers have
/ turned TO yokes as a solution OF the
problem, round and square effects an
nearing on many OF the newest blouses
/ The neck outline is an important de
/ tally this season, square, oval and v
shaped effects being widely popular
There are going to be more high col
lars worn as the season advances and
for summer they Will surmount yoke:
or net or lace, in the majority OF IN
stances. Few OF the blouses show any
decided ripple or flare If not straight
they are but loosely held in o. indicat.
ne waist.ino very slightly by theii
seams.
Reverting 20 the subject Of collars
scvcr-i,-c he hcs, firms are USING IA,
large adjustable collar or the Nat
revers and square back. The ordinary
lmannish collar Is beginning 10 be seer
more often than formerly also.
Frequently the outline OF the collar
corresponds with that OF the pocket Al
much as possible; that is. II the poke
Is trimmed with pointed laps OF Is o.
pointed design, then the same idea Il
repeated I'm the outline OF the collar
One Of the prettiest suits OF the sea
son Is ia spotted sports silk, worr
with a blouse OF silk jersey. Both skir
and blouse are as plain as II possibl,
to make them, the dash aud style helm,
crowded into the cut and finish OF tn,
garments. The collar Is pointed {,
match the cuffs and these. with tn,
belt are made OF the skirt material.
Biouses OF white linen worn Will
skirts OF ratine in mixed effects o.
CHECKS are very good looking for sum
mer use, as are also the all.whit,
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
A Bed for Hot Weather.

This Is also an excellent home hos
pital bed when a patient has much
fever. and the bed and pillows get so
hot the sick one thrashes about and
there is no comfort anywhere. Take
a smooth, finely woven piece OF straw
mating long enough TO fold under
the mattress several inches. top and
bottom. Fasten strong tapes or
mattress binding TO the four corners.
Stretch the mating smoothly and
firmly over the mattress and tie IL
securely with the tapes. Fix the
draw and under sheets in the usual
way. Disinfectants can be sprinkled
on the mating, and Il can be thor
oughly washed. A grass-matting
hammock pillow max be covered with
a FELLOWSHIP and used instead OF the
ordinary pillow. This sort OF bed
gives a chance for ventilation under
the patient that the Yielding mattress
alone does not allow. II Is easier to
Dathe patient on bed sd maze.
Children particularly enjoy a mat
tino bod
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

blouse costumes. Ail-white Is perhaps
a misnomer, for the blouses usually
are trimmed withs some contrasting
color, black being particularly fash
ionable. Very excellent effects are OBJ
tanned with black tub satin on white
linen and in addition to the satin a
simple design OF embroidery in black
silk on the pockets and collar is
super-chic.
Ponce silk, foulard and surah are
used In the development OF semi
dressy costumes that are attractive
yet not too pretentious for informal
social usages. These are trimmed
with bands OF embroidered braid used
as a part Of the trimming Of the
skirt and also for girdles wound
around the figure and tied in sash
effect, either at the front or back.
Combinations Of plain and figured
materials continue supremely mod
ish and the idea Is excellent where
much color is introduced into the de-
sign OF a fabric And color does en-
ter prominently into many of the
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

Fold the remaining goods and direct
" on the fold place the foUnce. The
1lecing Is laid along tho selvaBe edge.
.s.t tho lining IL folded In. half and
he back gore laid on the iengthwlse
fold. The front gore has It's straight
edge resting on the selvage. the large
o. perforations on lengthwise thread
OF materisl.
Now, to mako the skirt. take the
foundation first. Join the cores as
noiched, then close front seam, from
single large 20" perforation TO lower
edge and finish edges above perfora-
ton to lower edge and hnish edges
above perforation for placket Close
back seam Of fiounoe, sew 70 lower
edge OF foundation, notches. center
fronts and center-backs even.
Next take the tunic and turn under
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
By KATHRYN MUTTERER.

wv HEN invited to spend a week
w or two with a friend during
the summer, a gift for the
hostess is always a matter for ser
iogs consideration. Here are two
suggestions which are most appro-
pirate. They are not "too much"
yet they give evidence OF the expen-
diture Of much time and thought on
the part OF the donor. And such gifts
frequently are more appreciated that
some high-priced novelty purchased
the last minute before taking the
train and without consideration Of its
appropriateness or usefulness.
The handkerchief is very beautiful
and is easy to work. While a number
OF pretty stitches may be employed to
develop the design, the raised satin
and eyelet are most suitable. The
edges are scSlloped worked with hut
ton-hole stitch. The handkerchief Is
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

made OF the sheerest linen possible
and tho pattern contains two differ
ent designs, ten Inches square.
When made OF colored linens the
kerchiefs are very attractive. finish
ed with a picot edge made I'm the
same color as the linen, With crochet
cotton. Such handkerchiefs when
purchased in the shops command ex-
orbitant prices. while they can be
made during spare moments at very
small cost.
The collar and cum set Is exquis-
ite when made Of very fine lawn or
organdy. A butterfly Is arranged at
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
7S5e

smartest frocks OF the season. Some
times it is a sconspicuous by its alb.
sence as by its insistence. The soft
neutral tones Of biege, putty, clay,
gray and sand are repeated every
where until one gains the idea that
only in evening gowns and sports
clothes has the color sense for which
the French are famed had its canoe.
Some argue tat is is not 80 easy to
make mistakes within neutral lines,
but though the neutral toned mate
rails are altogether likabls in them
selves, they are sometimes trying
upon the wearers.
All Of these points are we'll worthy
OF remembrance by women who are
going for their first experiments with
dressmakinR
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
GUIDE TO PATTERNS

The fashions shown on this ma
are Pictorial Review designs. M
bers and sizes are as follows:
Russian Blouse No. 1882. sizos-
to A inches bust. P.ice, 20 cent,
Skirt No. 7242. Sizes, % to 50
ches waist Price, 20 cents
Costume No. 1855. Sizes. 81 ~
Inches bust. Price, 25 cents.
Costume No. 1860. Sizes, 81 to
Inches bust. Price. Is cents. :
Sports Blouse No. 1865. SIze6
to Al inches bust. Price, 20 centa.
Skirt No. 1865. Sizes. % to
inches waist. Price 20 cents.
Ladies' Blouse No. 1858. SIZES,
to 46 Inches bust. Price, 20 cent.
Skirt No. 1871. Sizes, % to s4'
ches waist. Price. 20 cents.
Blouse No. 1884. Sizes, "a %
inches bust. Price, 20 cents. /.
Skirt No. 1928. Sizes. % TO
inches waist. Price, 20 cents.
Costume No. 1915. Sizes, "a to .
Inches bust. Price, S cents.
CH0me Dressmaker's Corner) SIX
No. 1926. Sizes. % to SO inch
waist. Price. 90 cents.
No. 12120-Transfer pattern or I,
designs 10 inches square, and 2
each pattern, Is cents.
No. 1221S-Transfer pattern Of =
10 cents.
No. 1221S-DesIgn stamped on =
white linen for collar and cuffs. wi
white cotton for working. IS cent,
Crosby Hill & Co. 40
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

Scald one quart milk in double
boiler. Mix two tablespoons corn
starch, three-fourths cup sugar, and
one-fourth teaspoon salt. Pour on
gradually the scalded milk. and cook
in double boiler ten minutes. Add
the yolks Of three eggs. slightly beat
en-. and cook three minutes. Cut one
half pound figs In small pieces. put
In double boiler. and add one-fourth
cup boiling water. One-fourth cup
sugar, and one tablespoon lemon
Juice. Cook until figs are soft. com
bine mixtures. cool and turn into a
serving-dish Beat the whites of
three eggs until sti1 and add three
tablespoons powdered sugar grad
uallv- while heating constantly then
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

With IA yard lining S6.inch vide for
cores.
One need have no experience what.
ever to cut and make this skirt. The
guides show how TO take every step
required TO produce a successful model.
An open width OF material. doubled
so that two right sides are placed toge-
Their, is required to cut the tunic.
Place the pattern on the material so
that the large 20" perforatieRs will
rest on a lengthwise thread 1yAst as
shown In the cutting guide. Then place
the piecing TO the upper left Of The
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

Soak one-half cup pearl taploca in
cold water TO cover, two hours
Drain and add two and one-fourth
cups boiling water. one cup dates
stoned, and cut in pieces. one-half tea
spoon salt, and three shaYings, cut
from the rind Of a lemon. Cook in
double boiler until tspioca is trans
parent. Cool slightly, and add one
teaspoon vanilla. Serve with sugar
and thin cream.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
Pruno Ice oroam.

Pick over one cup prunes, cover
with one and one-halt cups cold wa
ter, and soak overnight. Cook in
same water until soft, remove stones.
and force fruit pulp through n PURGE
strainer. Add one cup sugar, four
tablespoons lemon juice, one-eighth
teaspoon salt, and one and one
fourths cups heavy cream, beaten
until stiff. Freeze. using three parts
finely crushed Ice TO one part rock
salt.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
Home Dressmaker's Corner
Tune Skirt That viii Enjoy Extended Favor During
the Summer Season.

THE tunic skirt is the skirt OF sum
mer. Smart women are using it
for all occasions and developing
II in a variety Of materials. The model
shown here is very good In linen TO
wear with separate shirt waists. 1t
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

right front edge on slot perforations.
lap on left front. center-fronts even
(large 20" perforations indicate cen
ter-front) stitch 1 inch from folded
edge leaving edges free above single
large 'O' perfora'tion for a placket.
Close back scam. Adjust tunic Ia
position over foundation skirt, center
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

fronts and center-backs even. Adjust
ineh betting TO position underneath
upper edge OF skirt for a stay; sti.cl
upper edges together.
stitching.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
By MAUDE HALL.

~ 44t00I HALL
- HE thought OF the nation Is 70.
Elected in the styles for mid
summer In all OF these war
economy and a revorsion 70 sim
pliclty are emphasized. Yet the
best ideas Of the world OF dress are
reflected In the new dosigns-deft
touches Of originality, splendid fab
RIGS, beautiful trimmings and oxquis-
ito workmanship. The majority OF
women arc learning what the few have
known for generations past--that a
gown need not be elaborate TO be hand
Iome and rich in effect
Quite as much time and thought
are devoted TO the details as 70 the
ines OF skirt or blouse Every.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
Little Gift EmbrOideries for Summer Visits
Clever Bits Of HIandwork For the Visitor to Make
For Her Hostess.

center Of the back. II Is worked in
dolls eyelit and eyelet stitches, the
simple scallop being buttonholed.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31
We
Strawberry shortcaks.

Mix and sift two cups -four, 70
teaspoons 'baking-powder, one tai
spoon sugar, and one-half teaspo
salt. Work in one-fourth cup butt
using the tips Of the fingers, and III
add one egg, beaten until light,
which has been added one-third c
milk. Toss on a slightly -four
board, and divide into halves. p
roll out and bake in two butter
round layer cake-tins. Split a
spread cut surfaces with soft butt
Wash, pick over, hull, and cut stra
berries in halves, sprinkle with sue
place on back of range until VAIN
crush slightly and put between, 4
on top OF shortcakes. Cover w
whipped cream, sweetened and d
ored with vanilla, and garnish NJ
selected Strawberries.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

be three-tourths cup. BreRR Do,
nut meats in pieces; there should
one-third cup. Mix prepared in6
dients, arrange on a bed Of crisp /
tuce leaves, pour over dressing, =
garnish with thin strips Of red q
per. For the dressing: Mix in
small glass jar four tablespoons oil
oil one tablespoon grapefruit jul
one-half tablespoon vinegar, one I
spoon salt, one-fOurth teaspoon D
rika, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, a
one tablespoon finely chopped Rod
fort cheese. Chill and shake th
oughly before using.
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

has q three-piece foundation, length
sned by onepiece nounce with
straight lower edge. The twO-piece
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

tunic IS circular in shape and closes at
fbe front. In medium size the skirt
---~-1ras az yards 36-inch material,
Evening journal., 1917-07-31

add one-half tablespoon lemon julio
Pile neringue by spoonfuls over pes
ding, Just a. sendtng 70 TIA ekAe
This meringue - be e. ~ bask~ En-
not stand long.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
APANESE SHIPS
COULD GIVE AID
IN MOVINGCARGO
Capt. Fiimer Sees One Avenue
of Relief if u. S. Comman-
deerS Pacific Vessels

If tie COaStWise shipping laws were u
be suspended and American vessels on
the Pacific Communicated ana diver
ed to the Atlantic for the use of tn
government, IS an Associated Press
despatch stated this week, the
Japanese liners calling here could
afford some relief in moving cargOeo
to and from the coast, thinks Captain
w. c. T. s. Filmer. commander Of
the T. X X liner in port yesterday.
There would he space for cargo
to the coast in that part Of the ship
left vacant by the disc barge of freight
from the Orient at this port. Also.
freight could be shipped 10 the islands
from San Francisco in the steerage,
which is never full until after we
leave Honolulu Oh the outward v0y-
age" he says.
Approximately space for 1000 tons
of freight either to or from the coaS;
would be available ON his ship ever
voyage. he estimates He had heard
nothing of the intention of the guv-
eminent to permit the Japanese liners
to carry freight and passengers b.
tween Honolulu and the mainland
before leaving San Francisco, ne
said.
Master W. f. Filmer, the captain
son, is taking his first ocean trip on
this voyage of the T. K. K. liner.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
Chinese COMING
FROM Orient TO
Be REGISTERED

Marshal Jerome J. Smiddy has come
to the aid of a number of young Chi
nese men, citizens Of the territory
who are now on their way from the
Orient and who have not yet regis
tered for military service.
The marshal was recently informed
that the young Chinese would arrive
here on a foreign steamer on August
II, and he Immediately set out to
make arrangements for their regis
tration. He told Sheriff Charles H.
Rose of the circumstances and the
sheriff gave the marshal his assur-
ance that the Chinese might register
as soon as they arrived here.
Marshal Smiddy is telling a good
story of a local man who came to him
recently with the information that he
could point out at least a dozen ELI
gibles who had failed to register. Buc
the man declined to point them out
unless he was commissioned as a spe'
cial deputy. The marshal ended the
interview right there.
81 told him | did not have to buy
my information, that way or any other
way" says the marshal.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
Fred 0rt Said to Be Logical
Choice for lob: Third Read
inq of Measure Soon

IN Order thai Tho taxpayers OF
Honolulu may BE- assured Of an engl.
ncer Of ability and one who Is thor
UuGhly acquainted with the frontage
improv emeut work under which 81,
900, 900 worth Of roads are 10 be con.
struCted during the next two years,
Will ALWAYS be al the head Of the
engineering work OF the city and
county OF Honolulu, an ordinance was
introduced Friday evening by Super
visor Charles n. Arnold creating the
position OF assistant city and county
engineer who shall have all tho pow
e:s exercised by the City and county
engineer
The ordinance Vas passed on first
reading by vote OF six 10 one, but
not ordered TO print Lester Petrie
voted in the affirmative but ex-
planned that h" did so because he
did not wish 1t TO appear that he
was trying TO block every ordinance
iutrodu ced but it did not mean that
lie would vote the same way on the
second and third readings. William
Mcclellan voted NO. emphatically.
The ordinance does not prevent
Mayor Fern from appointing Jonn
Wilson or any other man as head
OF the engineering and road depart
ment. but his work Will be more Of
an administrative nature and his con-
troll over the former considerably
curtailed With an assistant IN charge
the board however. will not neCes-
sarily have to approve the appoint
ment, as would happen otherwise.
Who will be the new assistant
engineer has not been definitely de
cided but ii is felt that Fred Ohrt is
the logical choice as he has been
with the engineering department for
many years. has been actively en-,
gagged in road building under the
frontage improvement law since 1t
was put into operation by the last
board of supervisors and is thorough
ly acquainted with local conditions.
The introduction of the ordinance
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
SHERIFF ROSE SEEKS
TWO NEW AUTOMOBILES

Sheriff Charles H. Rose wants two
new automobiles for the police depart,
ment, and in a letter to the board OF
supervisors Friday evening said that
the Schuman Carriage Co. had agreed
to let him have an S-cylinder Oldsmo-
bile and a 6-cylinder Oldsmobfle for
$3.50. The two 5-passenger Over
lands now owned by the department
will be turned in at 5000, leaving a
balance of $2250 to be paid for the
new machines.
Sheriff Rose said that the s2250
will be paid at the rate Of SIS a month
for six months and the balance at
$3.50 a month, the money to be taken
out of the regular appropriation to
the department
The request was referred to the pc.
lice committee
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
SCHOOL FOR ARTiLLERISTS
OPENED AT KAMEHAMEHA

A general order issued from the
headquarters of the coast defenses OF
Oahu announces that a school has
been established at Fort Kameha
meha, for the purpose of conducting
course for enlisted specialists Of
the coast artillery corps. The pre-
iiminary examination for the purpose
Of determining the fitness OF appli.
cants 70 pursue this course was held
on July %.
The following officers have been
detailed as instructors: For the cler-
ical course: Capt. William w Hlcks,
@. A. c., u. o. l.; and Second Lieut.
John E. McNellis, c. A. c. Electrical
course: Capt. John Ohnstad, and
Lieut. Ernest Kuehn, c. A. c. Ar,
tillery course: Capt George Ruhlen
Jr. and Lieut. George r, Meyer c.
A. C.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
MOVE MADE TOCREATE POSITION
~ OF ASSISTANT COUNTY engineer

was made necessary b. the expected
resignation Of George VI COIhns, Ci't
and county engineer. VINO has been
Offered the position OF chief engineer
Of the b = Bishop estate.
The ordinance follows:
BE II ordained by the people Of
the City and County OF Honolulu
Section !. An office TO be known
as Assistant City and County Engi
neer is hereby created.
Section The CITY and County
Engineer OF the city and County 0;
Honolulu is hereby Vested with the
power TO appoint a proper and suit
able person With known ability as
an engineer 10 fill said office when
10 the discretion OF said city and
County Engineer OF the city and
County OF HOnlulu it becomes neces
sary and proper to make such ap
pointment
Section The pa! OF said Assist
ant city and County Engineer shall
be such as may from time to time
be provided by the Board Of Super
visors OF the City and County Of
Honlulu.
Section The said Assistant
City and County Engineer snail hold
office at the pleasure Of the City
an County Engineer Of the City and
County OF Honolulu and may be re
moved at any time by said City and
County Engineer OF the City and
County Of Honolulu.
Section ; The Assistant CITY
and County Engineer shall at all
times be under the direction and
control of the City and County Eng!
Near of the City and County Of Homo
lulu and in the absence or other dis
ability Of the City End County Fngi
neer OF tie City and County Of Hon
olulu said Assistant City and County
Engineer shall be vested with and
exercise the same powers as are by
law exercised by and vested in the
said City and County Engineer Of
the City and County Of Honolulu.
Section 6 This ordinance shall
take effect from and after the date
of its approval.
introduced by Supervisor Charles
y. Arnold
Dated August 3, 1917"
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1917-08-04
PASSENGERS ARRIVED

BY the steamer Mauna Kea from
HilO and Lahaina.
From Hilo: w. J. Robinson. I
Loader, James Spalding, W. D. Adams
and wife, E. Kopke, Mrs. Cooks, T
T. Harrison, Mrs. Aikue, Henry Aikue
Miss Kagawa, J. NJ. Kalai and infant
Miss Kalai, w G. Smith and wife
o. All Fong, D. Iwamota, +. K. Akui
w. E. Devereaux, Master Devereaux
Miss Frear, Miss Lycan, Miss Otani
Miss c. c. Tong, Miss L. Tong, Mr.
and Mrs Thomas, Miss Thomas, Y
MiZuki, Dr. Colville, W. d. Merrick
Mrs. Watts, T. Tada, T. Saoto, Mrs
Kalealoa, Charles Gillilland
From Makukona: A. Akina, J
Moxam. A. NJ. Aldrige, H. Aldridge
Mrs. Mowry and infant. Gladys
Pierse, H. Shimokawa and infant, Mrs
Shimakawa, Miss Mcqueen, Miss Old
ing, Arthur Mason and wife, Miss Ma.
son, P A. Mackenzie.
From kawaihae: Miss Tarbot, Miss
Maclean, Mrs. Takehata and infant
Misses Takehata, (two), W. T Chong.
Miss Peggy Wilder.
From Lahaina: c. S. Nash and
wife. J. H. Williams, Miss Williams,
T. Brimsmead, F. J. Hare, C. Hors.
we'll, Miss Akana, Miss Crabbe, Arthur
Smith, W. R. Bisho, T. A. Lyons, G.
B. Lyons, Charles Gay, W. J. Cooper,
Miss Hannah. Mrs, Clinton, r. D
Williams, c. w Sleeper