Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1917-02-15
SARTORIAL SECRETS!
MERE MAN, READ THEM
Rainbow Evening Clothes One of
Sacred Mysteries of Tailors'
Private Exhibits
By M,LISS

do not impugn the dignity Of the pro-
fessIon," said the fashion expert, crossing
one correctly gray-striped trousered knee
over the other; pull no low jokes about 1t
taking nine talors TO make a man and
will tell you some OF the inner secrets Of
our art"
Members OF the profession--the sartorial
profession, representatives OF which are en-
joylng the last day Of their convention at
the Bellevue e-Stratford-passed up and down
the hotel corridor Behind their impec-
cable shirt fronts even German spy would
not have been guilty of suspecting that deep
secrets lurted
Tell me ALL" l implored brea athlessly.
The fashion expert played tantalizingly
with the stone in his cravat. 1t was a
moonstone, correct for morning wear YOU
know"
We'll. in the first place" he said finally.
IF II takes nine tailors to make a man, II
takes at least eighteen men to make q good
Ia llor. and anyway that adage originated in
Scotland where there are no good tailOrs
What most people don't know ia that the
phrase Is, IT takes nine talers To make
man Now. the Scotch for toll'ng n bell Is
tailering and when man died they toled
nine times. There you have IT,"
Bring on the secrets whispered
What Is your name?"
George +. Dreimeyer, of St. Louis,
and there were those who told me afterward
that Of all the well-informed tailors at the
National Association OF Merchant Tailors
George +. Dremeyer, of st. Louis. was the
best informed--the fashion expert, he is
called.
"As for the secrets" he closed his eyes
dreamily, you walk into one Of our eX-
hihts--our public exhibits, I mean-and
what do YOU see? Conservatism. cnnserv-
stsm. everywhere--nothng erratically rad
ical But We have our plans. our exhibits
which the public eye Is not allowed to
glimpse until the time is ripe
What would you say, for instance" he
murmered rapturousy. "to a purple dress
coat with lavender trousers to match the
lapels of the coat being embro!dered-hand
embroidered--wth silk violets. Such a suit
Of evening clothes has been designed and
at this very moment the tallors--the very
best--are considering ways and means of
launching colored evening clothes. At this
very moment evening clothes I'm maroon,
old blue and light greens are being created
for the high class trade. 1t may take
year or two TO get them established. But
we tailors, too have our beautiful dreams.
There is yet another secret ! would
impart to you" he continued. "Do you
know that the women--the ladies-set the
styles for the men? 1t Is so. This year
you will see raised waist lines and coats
closer at the waist than formerly and with
n slight drapery at the hips. 1t is a con-
dressed map will be nipped at the waist
and draped at the hips"
And how many outfits must the we'll
dressed man possess?"
SIX sacll suits" he replied sbiIantly,
"mufti clothes mo elghteen-karat tailor
ever says sports clothes for "mufti
clothes" or pants" for trousers or
vests" for "wastcoats') for riding. golf
two golf suits. tennis and yachting, two
evening suits and a dinner suit, as many
house togs as he likes. of course
This Is what the welldressed man re-
uuires." he went on, land let me tell you
that the well-dressed man, like the we'll
the product of a painful process of teach
ing. His tailor does II.
And now I will tell you about the new
silhouette. The well.dressed man must have
moderate shoulders. Padding is passe.
Men no longer desire TO resemble ditch dig
gers. They must possess slim elegance.
The close waist effect Is regal, continental.
Embonpoint is frowned upon, The legs,
ah, they must be slender. but not skinny,
they must give the impression OF muscle,
not fesh--all this the well-made trouser
can do. It is good silhouette, striking
but not sensational"
And then because the resounding tones of
the voice of Prof. Fl. Wellington Wood of
Temple University. who was talking to the
convention on Craftsmanship" came float
ing ,invitingly through the door he arose
and stretching his slender. but not skinny,
silhouette. he left me to listen to the joyous
chant Of Washington tailor who was
jublating over the action of the convention
i'm going on record to indorse raise of
salary for all Government clerks in the
national capital so that they Will he in
position to buy the clothes which the dig
nifty of their professon-and that of the
taiors--demands.