davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
SPRING TIPS.
A Few Points About Sill.
hovsttss and New eaoa

Notwithstanding the plaits In the new
skirts. one notes with interest-and
who will not say qualification as well !
that the silhouette OF the feminine
figure IL once more changing. Not Sc
| riUus or injurious change Of actual fig
ure lines, necessitating an uncomfort-
able corset. but very reasonable
change In the length and width Of
skirts,
A welcome change, for surely We
have had quite enough OF the short
skirts. many times so unkindly and
grotesquely displaying fantastic shoes,
a too generous proportion OF gay stock
lngs and not infrequently legs unfor
tunately not so straight and beautiful
as legs should be.
Bags rs pre-eminent dress aces
sorry are holding their own, despite the
advent OF many interesting novelties In
both garments and accessories OF dress
for spring.
The variety Of shapes and materials
In new bags Is no more varied than the
purposes to which they are to be put
For one to be thoroughly In fashion
must have n bag for every costume and
for every business and social occasion.
There are shopping bags. outing bags,
sport bags. party bags, porch sewing
bags, little bags and big bags-all use
full. all pleasing and many unique.
Bags are made Of the suit or dress
material, of ribbon or crochet and OF
braid.
Bags of straw and satin matching the
hat are not unlikely, and bead and
floss embroidery will be used on vir-
tually all Of the bags Of plain material
and many of those made OF fancy ma
terial.
Two charming bags are to be found,
one Of satin shaped by rows Of shir-
ring at the bottom and finished with a
hand made tassel OF silk floss; the
other OF brilliantly striped silk cut on
the bias and with colorful beads used
effectively as tassel and to trim the
ribbon drawn string handles.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
A Chest For Her Oowry.

Nowadays the bride to be realizes
the necessity of suitable receptacle in
which TO lay her dowry Of linen and
lingerie. OF late she has turned some
what to the conveniences Of a ward
robe with half its interior fitted with
dra wers, but ON the whole she leans to
the custom OF her grandmothers and
great reat-grandmothers for centuries
back and selects chest which, accord
ing to It's design. may afterward either
lie converted to storeroom uses or put
into the ball or bedroom as useful as
well as an ornamental piece Of furni-
ture.
visit TO museum will afford a
glimpse OF some Of the most beautiful
specimens Of early dover chests upon
which the medieval wood carvers ex-
pended their art. often supplemented
by the insertion OF rare paintings done
by famous artists
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
TEST FOR CLOTHS.
How to Tell " Cottons Hide In Your
New Wool Suit.
Mxw " " " y " y auxnwuux,

How to Tell " Cottons Hide In Your
New Wool Suit.
To test silk boil the sample In 8 per
cent solution of caustic potash for 6f-
teen minutes. II the silk Is pure the
fabric will he practically destroyed.
leaving but a small residue like paper
ashes. II there Is cotton In It the cot
ton will remain Another excellent
test Is to remove the threads which
form the warp and the wool Keep
these separately and test them in
strong hydrochloric or sulphuric acid.
II they are pure silk the threads will
dissolve within two minutes. II there
Is either wool or cotton In the fabric
the threads will remain unaffected
Pure woolens are adulternted even
more than silk because they are In
greater demand and also because they
are quite easy to initiate. Many a yard
OF cloth sold MS pure WOOL contains
from 80 to GO per cent cotton. Blan-
kets sold as "half wool have frequent
ly been found to contain only 10 per
cent OF pure wool. There are ma.
chimes today which cleverly wrap wool
around cotton threads. and the finished
product has every appearance OF being
all wool. Another method OF ndulter-
ating Is by taking cotton cloth and
"felting" short wooden threads upon
Its surface by means OF heat. moisture
and pressure.
A purchaser may be fully convinced
rom the appearance and feeling Of
cloth that II Is all wool, but the only
safe method Is to take home the
sample and make tests. Immerse tho
sample Of so called wool In oil OF vitriol
for about two minutes. This will de-
stroy the cotton. but the wool will not
be affected. Another test In TO mois-
ten sample with 30 per cent nitric
acid. This will turn the wool yellow.
but the cotton will retain It's color.
Use the same tests for linens that
you do for wooens. II the sample In
genuine linen It will not be affected by
oil Of vitriol, but any cotton that Ii
in It will be destroyed. Imitation
damask Is made today by means Of
printing upon the surface. with sort
OF transparent muciiage. the designs
These designs appear to be woven Into
the cloth BY immersing a sample =
boiling hot water and allowing II to
boil for several minutes the design
will disappear
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
Overheated Air.

A rise OF temperature in the sur
rounding air diminishcs the amount OF
oxygen consumed and the amount OF
lIoxide discharged A fall OF tempera.
ture has the opposite effect. In addi'
ton. the overhe3ted air forms a hot
jacket around the body which prevents
the radiation Of heat necessary TO keep
the body In healthy condition With
sedcstary occupation a temperature
of from "a to 20 should be maintained
for comfort and health
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
THE FASHIONABLE DAY BED.
A New Name For Couch With Foot
and Head Boards.

Every dog has his day, and the ultra
smart chaise Tongue must yield point
to the still more smart day bed, which
is just now beauty's favored back
ground. Every woman who has time
to sit around In stunning negligee
during the daytime Is surreptitiously
studying those enchanting Nine. Re-
camier poses, and a day bed is the
piece de resistance of the fashionable
boudoir. The modern artist photogra-
pher who takes his camera into the
home and photographs his subjects
against their every day backgrounds in
supposedly informal and natural poses
Is coming fortune In Recamier-like
portraits with luxuriously pillowed day
beds as the central idea.
For the small apartment the day bed
which can, of course, be used as an
ordinary sleeping bed by nights a
most useful and attractive bit Of fur
niture far surprising in grace the I'M
calmly folding bed Of another genera
ton or the folding davenport of recent
years. which always had two faced
look about it and suggested hidden bed
ding by the awkward height Of its seat.
The day bed may be had in Adam
style and made Of mahogany, with up
holstered velvet cushions, for about
$50. In painted wood. with gracefully
curved ends and denim covered cush-
ion, it costs about $50. OF course gid
ed wood or ivory enamel and cane day
beds in empire style may add anything
from $50 to 5000 to the bill for boudoir
furnishing.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
PIN MONEY.
How . Quaint Explanation Of II Be-.
came Current.

How . Quaint Explanation Of II Be-.
came Current.
The term "pin money" dates bacl,
to the seventeenth century. when the
modern pin was invented. After that
time the maker was allowed to sell
them openly only on Jan. ! and 2, SO
that court ladies and fashionable
danes alike were compelled to buy d
large quantity to last them over the
year. SO extremely important was
this yearly purchase that husbands
gave their wives large sums of money
for the pins. By and by pins became
cheaper and cheaper, and women spent
their allowance on other vanites, but
the term pin money" remained In use
for all spending" money.
The expression salt money" Is nn-
other such. This dates very far back
when the Roman workers in the sal
mines were paid in salt. The salt they
got In return for their labors was
called in Latin "salarium." or salt al
lowance. The word salarium later on
was applied to the fees men got for odd
Jobs. For instance. the Roman noble
would say, "For patching my toga
will give the fellow slight salarium-
bit Of money to buy salt with" ri.
nally salarium came to mean wages.
salary. what 1t does today. When we
say "a man Is not worth his salt" we
Diean that he Is not worth his salary
or wages.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
HOUSE PLANTS.
How to Take Care Of Them When
Plotted.

To make ferns grow better place
some thin pieces OF raw beef close to
the inside OF the pot. between the pot
and the soil Save your leftover cot
fee and dilute with cold water Use
this to water your ferns and II will act
as a fertilizer
III an asparagus fern turns yellow.
repot II. giving II a strong loan en-
iched with one fifth very Old and fne-
y crumbIcd manure aud add little
,oarse sand Give the fern an hour
Or two Of sunlight each day. Water
when II looks dry but do not let II
stand IN any wafer that may have run
through into tho saucer.
To destroy aphis shower foliage Of
infested plant on both sides with
strcLs tobacco tea. or. II the plant be
small enough. immerse II In this tea.
Insects in the earth Of a poiied plant
may be destroyed by pouring over the
I'll "A glass OF water IN which pinch
n mustard has been stirred.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

Cut flowers. especially roses win stay
fresh longer If they are Kept IN salt
water To get the best results a small
piece Of the stem should be cut OF
each day The stem should then he
slit about half an inch and salt put
In the silt. Fresh water should he
PIT In the vase each day Great care
Should be taken not TO drop water IN
the roses themselves. as IL viii turn
them dark
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
How to Rid Cats and Dogs OF the Pes,
Of Fleas.

Attention has been called to the fact
that care must be taken In using tnr
cuinphor on dogs to rid them Of feas,
not to let them lick their fur before
the tar camphor has been brushed of.
Tar camphor never should be used on
cats. for they naturally lick their fur
TO keep II smooth, and in this way the
camphor will get into the alimentary
canal and poison the animal. A yalu-
able cat tredicd with the camphor had
10 be killed 10 put II out of its agony.
Bat In the case 81 dogs this danger Is
slight
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
Terms ICED In Crochetina,

Oh means chain; oh st. chain stitch;
c, single crochet; c, double crochet
thread over once; tr C, treble crochet
Thread over twice.; d tr, double treble
crotchct Thread over three tines: c,
long crochet; 2, picot; y. roll picot: 81
st, slip stitch: !, loop; k ST. knot stitch;
., stars mean that the directions given
between them should be repeated as
indicated before proceeding.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
An Attractive Elouae.

A particular chic blouse has novel
shoulder yoke cut IN one with portions
Of the fr>lt, the rest Of which are
slightly gathered. the juncture o. the
pieces being mancurered with those
little openwork seams which are so
decorative in themselves that no other
trimming il required
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
Vivid Bicuaes.

There Is gu attempt 10 bring back
vivid hlouscs for the spring This viii
Lc quite easy to do /. The bl0uses are
worn outside and not inside the skirt.
Straight MILDLY blouses Of blue and
purple crepe de chine are offered In the
saeC ial,y shops. They arc embroidered
IA colored threads and bullion
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
Sweaters Fer the South.

Sweaters that so over the bead and
are cut IN two straight, pieces caught at
the wrist. without collar or sleeves. are
exploited fog the season in the south.
These sweaters are Ct saudy. rough
surfaced wooaens. They are primitive
In ogiline and material II il suggest
eli that the American Navajo blanket
le uSci for these sweaters and II II Is
d ne II viii create colofful sensation
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
Hint 10 Jelly Makers.

When using parafiin melt in an old
tea or coffee pot. and you win be inter
esie1 TO see how easy 1t is to pour the
contents Of The pot into Jelly glasses OF
other reccptaclcs after thev have been
filed and need TO be sealed. No scat.
tering drops viii sprinkle the Goor and
your apron.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
How 20 Keep Plants Fresh While
You're Away From Home Awhile.

There is Il simple way 10 water ferns
aud flowers which will be ~ Interest
TO one who must leave them for time
without care. Take washing tub
and place three or -four bricks IN Il and
put about two inches ~ water In the
tub. Place the flowers on these bricks
and place the tub where they can get
the morning sunshine.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

HOW TO ECoNoMlzE IN
THE USE OF COAL

+ HOW TO ECoNoMlZE IN :
+ THE USE OF COAL :
= If the consumer Is not getting :
r his moneys worth-and proba- :
+ bly, he Is not-says the anthra.
1. cite bureau OF information. the :
!. fault may be with the stove or :
!. furnace. the kind Of fuel used :
I. or the method OF regulation. 1
I. Here are some OF the don'ts 1
4. picked from a pamphlet issued 1
I. by the bureau: I
1. Don't put In too much coal or 1
+ too little. Don't crowd It above 1
1. the top OF the fire brick lining 1
4. In range. cylinder stove or hot I
+ air furnace. FIN the fuel space 1
4. twice day In winter weather. 1
1. heaplng the coal slightly In the 1
+ center. 1
!. Don't add small quantities OF I
4. coal several times day. with 1
1. attendant shakings: that means 1
+ loss In economy and comfort I
+ Shake the CRATE only twice a 1
1. day before fresh coal is put In. 1
\ and stop when a bright light I
I. shows underneath. /
+ Don't leave the feed door I
+ open; It cools the heating sur I
+ faces. All checking OF draft I
I. should be accomplished by shut 1
1. ting the ash pit door and open i
+ ing the check damper In the !
I. stovepipe. I
+ Don't neglect the furnace In /
4. mild weather. See that the coal !
+ is properly consumed and not i
!. shaken through the CRATE to pass 1
+ out with the ashes. Keep the I
+ ash pit empty, Don't let the I
!. ashes bank up under the crate; I
+ It not only shuts out air needed /
/. for combustion. but tends to /
+ warp the CRATE bars. Remove I
I. the ashes regularly once day. +
I. even II only small amount has +
1. fallen. +
+ Don't use the wrong size of +
4. coal Ordinary domestic ranges +
+ require chestnut" larger sizes +
1. can use "stove" coal. but "chest- +
+ nut" will give satisfaction. Fair I.
+ ly large steam and hot water boil. +
+ ers are best operated with egg +
+ size" anthracite; larger sizes use +
I. ''stove" alone or mixed with 1.
+ chestnut" Hot air furnaces OF i.
+ all sizes generally In use should +
i. be fed with egg" +
+ II the right size and quality +
T. OF coal is used no ash sitter Is +
+ required The coal should burn +
I. to n fine ash, and its first trip i.
+ through the stove or furnace /.
\ should be its last Clinkers are I.
4 usually sign of improper use of /.
+ the poker or improper regulation +
1. OF drafts. Too hot fire pro- i.
/. duces clinkers. !.
4. Dry air Is n poor conductor of !.
l. heat and is also bad for the i.
I. health. Keep the air In the i.
+ house reasonably moist. This i.
+ can be done by placing an open /.
+ vessel of water on or near each i.
!. radiator. All hot air furnaces i.
i and modern base burner stoves i.
4 have receptacles for this pur- i.
I. pose They should be refllled i.
+ every time the fire Is replen- i.
I. ished +
+ 1.
/. !. /. 1. I. i. T. i. j. i. 1. /. j. !. !. j. j. j.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

She Too many men expect their
wives TO run their homes On practical
ly nothing. They forget that 30 one
eau make bricks without straw. He
My wife does-out OF nour.-LondOn
Telegraph.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
usauuuuuuuussuauHs
WHY THK EYES ARE I
STRAINED At NOV. /


" les. --Physicians are constantly y
" advising patrons OF the movies y
" TO protect their eyes, A writer y
" In the Journal Of the American "
" Medical association tells why n
" eye strain Is produced aud how u
" 10 obvinte IT, ~
" The progress made In the y
" character OF subjects presented Y
~ In the movies today makes II de- y
" sirnble for all inquiring people y
~ TO at least attend occasionally" u
~ he says. Annoying after effects y
" on the eyes Of many prevent y
y them from enjoying the social y
" diversion and often the educa. y
" tional advantages thus derived. y
" The great majority Of those who v
" suffer from eye strain after y
" watching moving pictures can v
" find much. II not complete. relief "
y In perfectly lifted glasses The "
y picture may not be quite NO "
. sharp, but this IL more than com. "
y pensatcd Tor by the Increased "
" comfort "
" For those with very sensitive "
y eyes colored glass. either am. "
y Der. yelowish green or amethyst. y:
u may he necessary to give com. ~
" plete relief. There have been "
y put on the market recently sew. "
" eral varieties Of colorcd glass. "
" each Of which has some ndvan. "
" tages. so that some suitable col. "
" or can usually he secured A "
y subdued light In the thcaicr Is "
y much less Irritating than when "
" the only light visible comes from "
" the screen, II In also advisable "
" to avoid sitting In a place where "
" II IL necessary to look upward. "
" rs the additional strain becomes "
y very tircsome and frequently "
" leaves a headache" u
" "
~ ~ ~ a, ~ ~ "A, ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
FOR between SEASONS.

Shed Your Velvet Hat and Don One Of
Sst,,.
Already spring hats are much In evil
,dence. They mostly appear as black.
brown and purple satins on stiff, tall
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
WEE ELEGANCE.

What Four. year oIds Wear For Jack
Frost.
Old rose will be much used for small
garments the coming season. This coat,
however, is white velours cloth simply
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

feathelstitched. What gives the baby
ish finish is dainty sprigs of flowers in
double row down the front, which
closes with two ribbon bows
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

shapes. and wreaths OF eayly colored
berries. fruits and nuts sit around the
narrow brims. This one is OF white
satin. however.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15

Wool velours, dark green put up
with marked plaid Of green and gray,
gives this ultra effect The peplum OF
the coat is piped with plaid. and double
section pockets are almost as coy as
nun. The belt laps and buttons on
each side.
The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1917-02-15
COAT IN MINIATURE.

Wee Babies Need This tho First Cool
Day.
White cashmere loosely cut gives this
adorable garment. Edges are scallope1
In white silk and the hem and seams
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-08-21
8 KILLED AT CROSSING
Hits Auto-Girl Only Sur
yivor, Dumb From Shock.

Saybrook Junction, Conn, Aug. 81.
All but one of the eight persons who
lost their lives when their automobile
was struck late last night on grade
crossing of the New Haven railroad
had been identified early today.
The identifications, made by means
of messages from New Haven, are:
Robert H. Rohloff, who owned and
was driving the car: Gustav Weyel his
wife and three children, and Mabel
Wagner. The remaining body is that
of an elderly woman. The one sur
vivor of the automobile party is a 10
year-old girl who gave the name of
Louise w. Weyel.
New London, Conn.,, Aug. 21.-Eight
persons were killed when a locomotive
struck an automobile at the ferry
crossing at Saybrook on the New
Haven railroad late last night. There
were nine passengers in the car when
it was struck by the locomotive on the
pilot of which the bodies of a man
and baby were found
The one surviving member of the
party, young girl, was so shocked
that she is not able to tell who was
in the automobile.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-08-21
MINING KING DEAD
Many Fortunes in Metal Ore Made
and Lost by CantweH.

st. Louis. Aug. 21.-Harry j. Can't
we'll of st. Louis. former mining king,
died last night at Hot Sp1 ngs, Ark,
it was learned here today. He was
one of the first men to make a for
tune IN the lead belt of southeastern
Missouri. and at one time was head
of the St Joseph Lead company He
also had options on silver mines in
Montana. but there he lost the fortune
he had made in lead.
In 1895 he ran free silver paper
in st Louis. William r. Hearst
agreed to furnish 100000 of half
million to finance the enterprise, but
Cantwell was unable to raise the other
$4,000 from st. Louis friends of the
cause. The paper never prospered.
For the last ten years he has been
operating in mines with varying sue
cess. Eighteen months ago he OBJ
tanned options on lead land near
Miami. Okla. and made half a million
dollars
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-08-21
Commissioners Unanimously
Confirm Appointment.
He's Former NeOshO Deputy;
One of Houses BOyhOod Pals.
THEY SMOKED BEHIND SHED
Mayor, i'm Statement, Takes a
Swat Mt Former Chief.
Harbaugh His Personal Choice
"a Plain Plug Citizen.

Frank S. Harbaugh. plain, plug cit
izen from Neosho county, who used
to smoke corn silks behind the wood
shed with Mayor House when the lat
ter was a youth in Neosho county,
became Topeka's new chief of police
today. The city commissioners unan-
imously confirmed the appointment of
Harbaugh when his appointment was
proposed by Mayor House.
Harbaugh is almost total stranger
to Topeka. Following the disastrous
appointment of Jim Wilson. as chief
of police upon the recommendation
of political friends and Wilson's dis
missal, House announced he would be
his own boss again. He sent to Neosho
county for his old boyhood friend.
Frank Harbaugh, twice deputy sheriff
of the mayors home county. Har-
baugh also was a candidate on the
Republican ticket for sheriff but was
defeated in a Democratic landslide.
House put Harbaugh on the pay
roll as special officer" In the
4 last month it has been Harbaugh's
| job to endeavor to acquaint himself
with the police business of Topeka
His favorite haunt has been in front
| of the Chesterfield hotel Today. Har-
baugh has been citizen of Topeka
thirty days and is eligible to appoint
ment as a city official
Swat at Wilson.
| In a rather lengthy prepared state
ment presented to newspapermen to-
day, House explains his reasons for
| appointment of Harbaugh. and at the
same time takes opportunity, for
the first time, to openly return Jim
Wilson a few swats in answer to criti-
cisms of his discharge of Wilson:
! II have often expressed my ideal of
government" said Mayor House. ut
is that the administration machinery
shall run so efficiently, so smoothly
and with so little friction that the de-
cent, law-abiding citizen doesn't know
he's being governed. I won't stand for
a meddler or grandstander in the
office of chief. l won't stand for a
man, who, because of a little brief
authority, is overbearing and insolent
to the public. The people. as the late
and lamented Joe Reed once said of a
certain painted lady. the people have
rights"
The remainder of Mayor Houses
explanation follows:
Harbaugh Plug Citizen.
''Harbaugh was my personal choice
for the place. l take all of the re-
sponsibility for the appointment. If
it is a mistake it is my mistake. He
| CONTINUED on Page TwoD