davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
The Shirtwaist Frock
Is Revived

A notable maker of shirtwaist gowns, on
whose books are the names of women who live
in every state in this country, says that his
workrooms are deuged and that his fittings
telescope themselves throughout the entire day
in ffteen-minute appointments. He holds that
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
SILK FROCK FOR YOUNG Girl
Green taffeta, with wide girdls d
eyelet embroidery and low suh 4
the material. Collar Of white dmt

the material. Collar OF white umH
the reason for this, in addition r. thNs.az
binary number Of clothes demanded 5v,s
for their new activities, is the reverSn sas
simplest form Of warm weather ccs:vsgy,
which was once the habit OF the sinplsan:g
American people before the extravsgsr! EsI
of chiffon, lace and hand embroidery az
into being via Europe.
He makes a certain type of gown vte
Europe thinks is the fatigue uniform d u
American people, as the coat suit u
dress uniform. The skirt is pleated r's-
buttoned down the front, and often has VI
tucks from hem TO knees. The bodice x
in fine tucks or side pleatS, or is quite fi,
1t has long sleeves, tightly buttoned cuts q
a wide muslin turnover collar. There asr
belts.
He is turning out these costumes by h,s
dreds, and one sees them on women at o. y
smart places.
The sharp difference in summer dressing !"
shown the other day at great Red W.
luncheon. A woman who is a national oa''
the wife Of multi-millionaire, came N va
ing a shirtwaist suit Of exquisitely TIM y
nese pongee. The only trimming was az
collar of filet lace. The hat was s a@
brimmed black Milan straw with SIN "
of folded black tulle and bow arcuns I"
crown.
Three years ago, at the beginning q =
war. this woman came into the nnt " :
relief meetings in Paris wearing an 9''l !.
Callot gown of black chiffon ever sa'ln' ~ ~
cascades of rare lace at the sides Of H' ~,
and over the hanging sleeves. she wv, :
hat by Suzanne Talbot of black tule sn' - :.
disc, and dropping from her slim neck "~ !.
bust was chain of pearls almost as '''
pigeons eggs.
There you are. 1t is the gospel Of "'"
to dress simply.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
The Picturesque
Service Cape

1t may be that a cape is easier !" W
summer than a coat. or that the same Pr
Of activity has reached on: in c''n'
extra wraps; but, whatever the sou'v ~
demand, the apparel merchants are u'''
to find it on the increase. -
The French designers have sent 70 'n'' a
try large number of allurlng cape'' n
of these designs is copied by the a0'eI a.,
sweater is no longer considered the O.' 4,
ment for protection in warm wes'n'" ~
sport coat is not the only kind Of WIZ -
the average woman desires. She H Nv 10.
ing her entire time at homo or IN Wv L.s
field, and therefore she wants anotnsi - >
wrap. and cape satisfies her -" -,ts
tended for service is of thin eio'n =. N,
jersey, with long vest like sAe'' 80, .
on which there are deep patch p0SS !, 8
from which the material floats ave.
cuar folds over the shoulders. -
The other kind of cape that has 81
fashionable prominence is on the ,h,n =
elongated scarf, or. rather two u Is 80
together in the middle. The top va -ys
plaid, striped or checked fabric VI cosS
VI the same fabric as the lower .,,,s y
with heavy crewel embroidery u ',.,,,uS
lower scarf is plain and there : 4, NJ
of turning it into two deep Guns 10 u
edge The arms, thrust through -.
keep the cape in place.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15

home are busy preparing the increased number
of blouses, skirts and underwear that this sud-
den call to arms has brought about.
The government of the United States steps
in also as buyer of huge amounts. 1t is or
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15

insisted upon doing their nt. The drive OF
the Red Cross, which was nationwide; the
extraordinary grouping together of various
Units for sane and instant relief, such as the
Militia of Mercy, which provides money for
women whose husbands have been called out
and which is one of the best charities on this
continent; the hospital work, the arrangement
for providing comfort kits for the navy, the
league work of rolling bandages are merely
few of the dominant activities which interest
women this summer
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
Light and Sensible
Street Frocks for Summer

Now the embargo on such costumery is
lifted. The only one costume which is COM
Portable and is yet taboo in city streets is the
Separate skirt with the white shirtwaist There
must be coat or wrap of some kind to cover
the sharp juxtaposition of two fabrics and
two colors.
Crepe de chine, Georgette, all the Chinese
silks and pongees, foulard, striped wash silks
in light colors and handkerchief linen are the
fabrics turned into thousands of gowns this
summer for women who no longer stay at home
during the day.
One of the great Western houses reports
that it has been necessary to provide
greater amount Of frocks and suits for war
work for women during this summer than ever
before The reason is the somersault in the
summer regime. Women will not spend their
time these months of hot weather as they have
done for century. They have work to do
in the world and they must have fitting and
comfortable clothes for that work.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
Psychological Effect
OF the War

While those who are rich and fashionable
have put their shoulders to the wheel with
tremendous energy and enthusiasm, the appeal
for workers has gone into the byways and
hedges of social life.
There is no woman so poor but she can do
her bit no one so busy buJ she can add one
small burden to those she carries no one so
inactive. so shy, so dull but she can be touched
by the stir of these times
And the interesting psychology of this sit
uation is the gladness and interest that war
relief work has brought into thousands of
homes where women were bored to death with
the dulness of their lives, where they had
never felt the need of going out into the world,
and where, through shyness and lack of oppor-
tunitv. they did not have circle of friends
and never came in touch with the broad move
mentS of the hour.
What it must mean to all these thousands
of women to have a new light thrown into
their lives can be we'll appreciated by one who
has seen, or read, Mr.. Barrie's playlet entitled
"The Old Lady Shows Her Medals"
1t is story of lonely old charwoman in
London who tricks and deceves her neighbors
by insisting that she has son at the front and
who spends money and time in preparing bum
dies for him. When faced with discovery by
this alleged son, who attacks her deception
with Scotch conscience, she explains that all
the other women in the country Dragged of its
being "their war" and that she lied because she
wanted it to be cher war;
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-15
What Well Dressed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RTIENHOUSE
War Work Creates Demand for Cool Summer Frocks

dering clothes for the enlisted women of the
naval reserve force. Already it has asked for
900 blue serge suits. smartly made; 2,ooo
white cotton drill suits 1000 separate white
skirts. 1000 straw hats and another 1000
dark blue felt hats.
The tendency in all the new clothes is toward
the silhouette adopted by the government for
its enlisted women. Skirts are narrow and OF
reasonable length, blouses are simple, with
wide. turnover collars of lace or white wash
material, and jackets are short and made on
mannish model, depending on the cut for dis
tinction.
Those who do not care for suits are fitting
out their wardrobes with cotton frocks. Even
at the smartest hotels in the heart of great
centres fashionable women are appearing IN
checked ginghams with broad straw hats.
This is a fashion which has never been toll
Grated in the majority OF great American
cities. Such clothes have always been kept for
suburban towns and the country, and when
woman found it necessary to go on the street
of great city drng the heat of the day she
felt that tradition demanded that she subject
herself to the discomfort OF suit. She pre-
ferred to pass away from moisture in blue
serge coat and skirt rather than roam the
street in a checked cotton gown and white shoes.
The Fulton County news. [volume] (McConnellsburg, Pa.) 1899-current, 1917-06-14
The Schoolroom Voice.

The "schoolrOom voice." has long
been a term of reproach. Teachers
may not be able to improve the quail
ity of their pupils voices, but they
can do great deal toward getting
pupils to speak in an easy and nat
ural tone of voice, which Will still be
audible not only TO the teacher, but
also to the pupils in all parts of the
room. In addition, constant attention
should be given, day In and day out,
TO matters of clear articulation, correct
pronunciation, and right infection. BY
making the conditions Of the recita-
ton such that the pupils get the feel
ing that they are actually talking to
one another with the intention OF I'M
parting information, or opinions, and
not merely "reclting" to the teacher to
prove they have learned their lessons
the speech of children would greatly
improve in these respects. But no mat
ter how favorable to good talking the
schoolroom conditions are made, pu-
pills ought to have throughout the en-
tire course systematic training through
speclal exerclses.-Exchange.
The Fulton County news. [volume] (McConnellsburg, Pa.) 1899-current, 1917-06-14
Airplanes and Ash Trees

A timber expert states that the de.
mand for ash has gone.up so enormous.
ly since we went In for airplane con.
struction on the present big scale that
prices are fully three times what they
were in pre-war days, says London
Tit-Bits. Nothing but the very best
English ash serves the purpose. "Tho
finest in the world" Is his verdict Ex.
periments with other wood, notably
American spruce, have yielded most
disappointing results, and 1t is curl
Gus fact, due to climatic causes, that
Irish ash is unsatisfactory too. But
nm ash tree cannot be grown In day
The timber Is utterly worthless for air.
plane purposes unless 1t Is at least
sixty years old. 1t is all the better II
1t Is double that age, when some OF
the trunks can show clear straight
run Of so feet or more.
The Fulton County news. [volume] (McConnellsburg, Pa.) 1899-current, 1917-06-14
slovaks a Scattered Race.

No Slovak In Hungary Is allowed
to speak the Slavish language out on
the streets, and even the priests are
not allowed to preach In the Slavish
language and Slavish people don't
know any other language but their
own. Before the tenth century the
sloyaks had kingdom, but after the
last king, Svatopluk !, the kingdom
was divided between his three sons
Mojmir, Svatoboj and Svatopluk, and
since then the Slovaks have remained
scattered but never assimilated
race.
The Fulton County news. [volume] (McConnellsburg, Pa.) 1899-current, 1917-06-14
No Volunteer SMattlna Now.

The early fly buzzed across the
room, md met another early fly, vol
planning through his orbit. They en-
circled each other, passing the compli
ments of the season. Said one.
"Have you heard the terrible news
The swatting brigade is moblllzing
earlier than ever this yearl"
"Forget It |" hummed the other. "It's
the same old stuff. They'll call fol
volunteers, and by the time they are
ready for service the summer will be
over and you and l will have raised
our families and died Of old agew
"Oh, but it's different this month
There's going to be immediate selec
tive conscription of swatters !"
With low moan the first fly fell In
a dead faint to the ceiling. Cleveland
Plalndealer,
The Fulton County news. [volume] (McConnellsburg, Pa.) 1899-current, 1917-06-14

Mrs. George W. Barnett, wife Of
Major General Barnett, U. S. NJ. O.,
who is active in Red Cross work, pho
graphed at the luncheon given to the
delegates to the American Red Cross
war council by Mrs. Hugh l.. Scott at
Fort Myer, Va.
Evening star., 1917-05-06
BY Sara Moore

gets air enough and sumun might shake
rugs or dust pans over them"
But still she sat.
-. y
The little kitchen looked smaller,
gloomier. more untidy. when at last
she raised her eyes. There was some
thing OF discourageme and even re-
bellion in her glance. She waddled to
the cheap mirror tackled between the
kitchen windows. and inspected her re-
Election in the dim light from the air.
shaft. Poverty. poor food. anxiety.
overwork. had written record OF many
knew without looking that her dis
torted figure and SCARED, puffed hands
told tale of handicapped maternity
and slum domesticity.
She had been pretty and fresh and
hopeful for all things when Rubinsky
was young and straight and joyous. The
two Rubinsky girls were still unmar-
red by life. They might. against back
ground OF luxury. be almost pretty
as the little actress in the picture book.
Signing deeply. the old woman took
one more peek before she put the book
aside and set about preparing supper
for the family. The book fell open. ny
the dim light under the window she
could see.
Physical Culture for the Face" she
read. And our line of exclusive face
creams will remove all wrinkles and re
store ones youthful complexion. Ths
lines on your face are only the result
of nerves. II an afternoon of shopping
leaves you exhausted or an evening OF
makes you jaded and faded. try
our
"oh. well." sighed Mrs. Rubinsky.
throwing the book among the unwash.
ed dishes on the laundry tub.
Evening star., 1917-05-06
Good Advice.

nov. LIVINGSTON BEECKMAN of
W Rhode Island said, in Providence.
apropos Of the gigantic strides that the
temperance movement is taking:
The whole country now seems 10
look at excess as the young wife did.
Jim. dear said a young wife. do
wish you'd stop drinking. Every time
you go to one of those banauets Of
yours, you get up the next morning
pale and silent. you eat nothing, you
just gulp down ten or fifteen glasses OF
water Do stop drinking. won't you?
l know IT can't be good for you. dear
".All great men have been drinking
men, said Jim. Look at Poe. look At
Charles Lamb. look at Burns. look
At
".WelI, Jim.' said the young wife.
won lust swear of till you become .
great man, too. and I'll be satisfied"
Evening star., 1917-05-06
Enlarged Photographs to
B@autify Public Schools

lar needs. Having an income Of only
$3.50 a year-each member pays a fee
of 81 year-the work has been linn
tied. but the league. through judicious
purchasing, has been enabled to buy a
few pictures and spend the greater part
of the sum for artistic frames
One of the most important and artis-
tic pieces of work accomplished by the
league recently has been in connection
with the jefferson School, where a
over the stage in the auditorium. The
plaster models. the originals of sew
eral pieces now in the Library of Con-
gress, We're obtained and placed to-
gether. and the work holds a certain
distinction. being the first models of
the Library pieces.
In all of its work the league CO.
operates with the municipal architect
and the board of education. There are
number of specialists among the
members. and their aid has proved
beneficial in many ways For instance.
one member may be a painter who
knows the value of certain colors, their
lasting qualities and their effects upon
the eyes. His training is especially
valuable in the selection and mixing of
paints for certain schoolrooms. Another
member may be an interior decorator
who knows the value of certain kinds
of pictures and decorations; another
may be an architect, who has had ex-
perience in all branches of his work.
Miss Grace Temple, a decorator and
member of the league. has given con-
siderable time and thought to the work
of the league. She has been called into
consultation regarding all sorts OF
school decoration, and her work has
proved of great value.
A great part of the leagues work has
been done in the schoolrooms of the
northeast and southeast sections of
the city, the older buildings getting q
large share of attention. A dozen
schools are being decorated at the
present time.
Several of the photographs presented
by Mr.. Robinson are reproduced today
in the .planagravure section OF The
Star.
Evening star., 1917-05-06

6f1 HE League for the Decoration of
Public Schools has recently been
presented with a group of en-
Iarged photographs by a. G. Robinson.
which viii be placed in various schools
of the city. The photographs. taken in
New England, Virginia and the District
of Columbia. are splendid examples of
the art OF the camera. reproducing
beauty spots Of nature in a manner not
often equaled.
Mr.. Robinson. q war correspondent
for various New York newspapers dur
ing the Spanish American war. several
years ago took up photography as "A
pastine. spending his leisure hours
afeld and in the darkroom. Ills work
has not been confined to any one local
ity. his pictures showing scenes from
Maine TO South Africa. His enlarged
views, presented 10 the league, are
about thirty inches in length by TWEEN
ty-four inches in width framed to best
set off their beauty.
II has not been definitely decided as
yet where the photographs will be
placed. but the committee having
the best advantage.
The League for the Decoration of
Public Schools is local organization.
although there are other leagues in
various large cities. About ten years
ago there appeared a pressing need for
an organization of this kind in WASH
ington. Few efforts had been made to
beauttfy the schooirooms. Little at
tention had been paid to such matters
as interior painting and decorations:
the pictures used had not been care
fully selected. they were not hung TO
obtain the best effect and curtains for
windows had not been chosen for ef-
fective lighting.
Three hundred and fifty members were
taken into the organization, the pri-
mary object of which was to make the
schoolrooms of the city more cheerful
for the children who had to spend con-
siderable OF their time in them. com :
bnittee was selected to make the rounds
of<he schools and discover the panttcu.
Evening star., 1917-05-06
-IF you LOOK FADED AFTER MORNINGS sHopPING-"

AN me goin' crazy with trouble JUS
cause beans is gone from s to IS cents
a pound"
All afternoon she reveled in a world
of fashion that was to her as enchante ID
as the land that Alice found beyond
the looking glass. She did not get the
cleverness in the letters from Paris, the
wit in the dramatic reviews. the subtle
gayeties implied by clever editorials and
even brilliant outlines under drawings.
But she did get something of the at
mosphere, something Of the glamour.
There was that remarkable interview
with a leading actress. Tahmah Ru-
binsky looked dizzily at q portrait Of
the dream-like creature in a tulle and
satin neglige. propped against pillows
of fne linen. velvet. silk and richest
lace.
Jus to sleep on" marveled the read
er. Then she remembered.
IT otta take them feather beds in"
she muttered. .on the fire-escape they
Evening star., 1917-05-06
A Nation of HuStIerS.

ssvNY HEN America gets into the world
wv war things will happen" said
Editor George H. Lorimer at dinner
in Philadelphia. America invented the
submarine boat, the machine gun and
the aeroplane. and when she gets busy
war-making the spectacle will be very
remarkable.
II don't want to brag. but the other
combatants in Americas presence viii
be like the young fellow who got the
job of private secretary to a multi
millionaire.
"The first morning OF his new Job
the secretary showed up at o'clock
and found the multimillionaire already
hard at work. The second morning he
showed up at o'clock. and thsrs was
the multimillionaire with half his mail
cleared away. So the third morning
he showed up at z o'clock and the
multimillionaire looked up from Ats
desk ana said drfly:
Young fellow. what do you DO with
your forenoons?"
Evening star., 1917-05-06

sky moved SO that no one might peek
over her shoulder as she studied them.
During the season when cold made un-
derwear imperative her family bought
woolly things from push carts. In the
summer their few undergarments could
claim no cousinship with the lace and
silk wear the advertising writers SO en-
Enthusiastically described.
And then, because Rubinsky some
times handled furs in his 7th avenue
secondhand clothing shop. his wife
looked at the furs. The frst coat pic
tured on the prettiest page was an err
mine trifle valued at $4,000. The next
was a sable wrap which any one could
have for $4,000. Just to show that
there was no snobbishness about the
establishment a third picture was add
ed. showing a modest little mum and
neck scarf set for $500.
"Mein Gott" sighed Mrs. Rubinsky,
Evening star., 1917-05-06

the street below him shrieked and a
trolley car stopped dead in wonder
With almost no exertfon he padded
himself. many yards at a stroke. to the
girls private school, where Marjorie
Jones was a pupil. Marjorie Jones
had amber curls and a golden voice.
and had recently offered Penrod a hun
dred proofs that she considered him
wholly undesirable and ineligible; but
when he foated in through the window
of her classroom and swan gently
along the ceiling like an escaped toy
balloon. she fell upon her knees beside
her little desk, and, lifting up her arms
toward him. cried with love and
admiration,
.'Oh. Penrod"
He negligently kicked a globe from
the high chandelier, and, smiling coidly,
Evening star., 1917-05-06

world like an exqusitely cut jewel into
a world of paste and colored glass.
Isadore-the messenger-hoy son-had
picked IT up in a street car. Probably
he had been arrested by the bevy of
bud beauties simpering out from its
gay cover. Mrs Rubinsky blushed as
she looked at them. To go about with
arms and bosom uncovered, in that
neighborhood. would have been the
apogee of wantonness. The reader
tried to Judge gently. She understood,
dimly. that great ladies wore such cos
tunes without precipitating any imme-
diate social or moral catastrophes.
When she had studied every detail
from their pointed heels to their point
ed fingertips. she sighed and turned to
the enhancing pages inside.
To begin with. there were several
cuts of almost dressed figures advertis-
ing lingerie and corsets. Mrs. Rubin
Evening star., 1917-05-06

that sinfstsr-mere emptiness The ac-
copied theory was that Penrod had been
arrested. How breath-takinE then the
sensation when. at the beginning of the
second hour, he strolled in with inimit-
able carelessness. and, rubbing his eyes
somewhat notfceably. in the manner of
needed sleep, took his place as II moth
ing In particular had happened. This.
at first supposed to be a superhuman
exhibition Of sheer audacity. became
but the more dumfounding when Miss
Spence-looking up from her desk
greeted him with a pleasant little nod.
Even after school Penrod gave numer-
GUS maddened investigators no relief.
All he would consent to say was
'+Oh. just talked to her"
A mystihcauon not entirely uncon-
Evening star., 1917-05-06
A BOY IN THE AIR

he rightly interpreted as one-of con-
tinued suspicion she and were in
school together" she said IT used to
know her very well. and I've always
heard her married life was entirely
happy. / don't"
Yes. it was" he interrupted, until
last year when Uncle John took to run
ming with travelling men,
"What?"
"Yes'm." He nodded eolemnly. THAT
was what started It. At first he was q
good. kind husband. but these travelling
men would coax him into a saloon on
his way from work, and they got him
to drinking beer and then ales, wines.
liquors. and cigars
"Penrodw
"Ma'am?"
I'm not inquiring into your Aunt
Evening star., 1917-05-06

hands with the air of never having
seen them before, and clasped them
behind him. The school shivered in
ecstatic horror, every fascinated eye
upon him."
'Penrod Schofeld!
He gulped-
Answer me at once. Why did you
speak to me like that?
Il was" He choked. unable to
continue.
Speak out,'
81 was just-thinkIng." he managed
to stammer.
That will not do.' she returned
sharply 81 wish to know Immediately
why you spoke as you did"
The stricken Penrod answered help
leSSly.