Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-07-15
00 VAR relief work has given an
MAN. unusual stimulation to the
HW clothes industry. The dress
w W nf In a

NJ
MAN. unusual stimulation to the
T\Y clothes industry. The dress
makers were not in a happy
frame Of mind during the spring. They
felt as If i'll luck were hitting them all
along tho line. There was an offensive
against the center and the ends.
First. there were the enormous prices
that had to be paid to the French de-
signers for the gowns that were sent to
this country as inspiration for new
work. Added to the prices was the seri-
Gus danger of not being able to get the
clothes that were ordered. through the
lack of transportation that came after
this government dismissed the German
ambassador.
The renewed activity of the submsrine
campaign was liable to make Mctiinty
and French gown comrades on the sands
of the sea. One of the woman buyers
who. during the spring. was spending
thousands of francs in Paris for her
shop, was asked by the house of Paqufn
why she did not feel sure of the frocks
she was choosing. She answered that 1t
was the first time she had to think of
what mermaids might like to wear. The
retort made by man buyer who was
standing near her, was that If she felt
that most of her cargo would be sorted
out by mermaids she had better go to
CaIlot FOR her frocks.
~
The new coStumery shown by that
house. consisting as 1t did. Of metallic
brocades, cleaning fish scales. short,
swirling tails and a variety of beaded
necklaces would have appealed to those
creatures whom we always think of as
combinG their hair rs they float and
sing.
When the prices had been paid by the
dressmakers for the spring gowns and
the transportation had proved secure.
America declared war, and the economy
cry was raised.
The dressmakers and the shopkeepers
who sell clothes had not had sufficient
time to realize a profit on their vast
expenses for French gowns in March.
and the majority of them decided. pos
sibly unwisely, that they would hold
sweeping sales in order to clear out
brought about crash in commerce
The shops were also compelled to pay
their salaries during this troublous
time, and they believed that they could
do this more easily by holding sales.
They would get cash, and they would
keep the workrooms busy by altera-
tons.
BY the time a great many persons
who deal in womens apparel con-
sidered themselves on the verge of
nervous prostration through the strain
of the spring, there cana into the
whole clothes situation a glimmer of
light that has broadened into a strong
ray of sunshine.
1t has created optimism in all quar-
tiers. 1t came through war relief activi-
ties That seems an astounding thing
to have happened. but it Is another
phase of the proverb, 1T is an i'll wind
that blows nobody any good"
It makes an interesting chapter in the
history of womens apparel during the
great war. Something similar to 1t hap
pened in England. not in France, but
the entire thing happened where it only
could happen. in this tremendously
prosperous country.
The beginning Of the war has been
written in chapters OF activity on this
side and fighting on the other side.
Literally. millions of women insisted
upon doing their bit. The drive of the
Red Cross, which was nationwide: the
extraordinary grouping together of va
rious units for sane and instant relief,
such as the Militia of Mercy. which pro-
vides money for women whose hus-
bands have been called out, and which
is one of the best charities on this con-
tinent: the hospital work, the arrange
ment for providing comfort kits for the
navy the league work of rolling band
ages. are merely a few of the dominant
activities which interest women this
summer.
While those who are rich and fash
tonable have put their shoulders to the