Evening star., 1917-11-07
OF Interest TO Women
THE LONG. LOOSE, BELTED TUNIC.
By ANNE RITTENHoUsE.
rrespondence of The star.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK. November 6.-The long,
loose tunic belted over the hips may
be the dominant fashion of this winter.
as 1t was last winter. but It does not
hold the field entirely to itself.
The silhouette of the middle ages is
so popularly accepted and SO over
worked, one might say. by all the
designers of the world that the expert
feels that the sartoria1 barometer will
soon mark a change.
1t is difficult To know why ones
senses register a coming change If one
is sensitive to atmosphere of ali kinds.
The rheumatic twinges that core Pc
fore the cloudy sky arrives may be
laughed at by doctors but they can
be proved by sufferers Thus, it is
with those who are keenly alive 10 the
movement of style. one senses a
change in the air now. 1t may be fool
fish TO assert it without much foUnda-
fion. but there are straws fiickering
through the air that seem to come from
another direction than the one which
blew In the tunics, the peasant b!ouses
and the medieval evening frocks,
Incoming of the Directoire.
1t is quite proper and right that the
directoire should come in on tfe heels
Of the primitive clothes we have worn
for two years, for the Napoleon.
period saw the revival OF all these fasi
ions and Nine. Tallien was not very Il
removed in her costume from SoElc "a
the young dancing creatures ore see:
today: and the women under the dl-
rcctory changed their style of dreSsinG
at time when the Grecian dTapCry
was the glory of the moment. All the
epochs Of dress which have closely
followed on each others heels in the
last six years. may have been cen
turies apart in their original introduc-
tion, but it is safe to say that they
were all foregathered in a hectic pro-
cession OF the ages during the Ma
pofeonic period in France.
The straw which shows the incor-
ing directoire styles. or At least, a
modification adaptation of them. Is
that upward tilt that all the dress
makers are developing in skirts and
overskirts. ..
Each dressmaker works II out in
different way, but it is to he seen on
nearly every important frock. True.
Il may develop at the waist line instead
Of at the hem of the skirt and it may
develop at the collar bone instead of at
the knees. but one has become accus-
toned to seeing that upward movement
of drapery. although it is directly op-
posed to the accepted hustle frock with
Its upward movement of drapery at the
back.
Aprons In Street Suits.
A remarkable grouping of new gowns
shows the clever and subtitle way in
which the designers play with the
peasant apron taken from the Brittany
OF other days. Cast into a new play
and given a modern role. this apron is
merely a panel Of cloth used with
few gathers or sewed straight to the
belt which attaches it to the waist.
1t Is also used to provide that upward
tilt which spells directoire-
THE sketch shows a new street suit
built Of beige cloth, which has so many
features Of the directoire in it that IT
attracts the attention at once. and not
only for his reason. but for the fact
that it is different from what the tail
orc have given US since the last of
August.
4 The apron Is used as method of
accentuaing he high wais line in
front and presenting a sharp contrast