davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

chiffon like the sleeves. Collar and cuffs are of the silk. Another fasten- in-back blouse comes from Suzanne Lievaln. This model is made of yel- low Georgette and fits very loosely. bagging over the waistline, while sash ends of the material coming from the back, are knotted over the skirt in front. Pointed epaulets and collar sections of cream f1let lace. a bead tassel swinging from each of the four, points, outline a shallow square dec- olletage. And by the way, the square necked blouse is tremendously the thing-if one can wear it. The " shaped neck opening is much more becoming to the average woman, and let her who is past the dimpled days of youth beware of the round or Dutch neck. which is coming in again.
 Wash Blouscs Of S.Ikcn Material.
 Two very exclusive tub blouses are pictured; one of white washable satin and the other of flesh pink washabre crepe. Either of these waists will be suitable with a sport suit of more formal type or with a tailored street suit for spring. The washable satin blouse is a very good example of the best type of tailored sport blouse. Its lines are simple but the cut is master ly, loose and graceful lines are achieved without undue fullness and the collar has the new flat line now prescribed by fashion. Flaring coi4 lars are no more and the new blouse aims at simplicity about the neck, re- vealing instead of disguising the charming lines of throat and shoulder The sport blouse invariably fastens at the front and has long sleeves fitted into cuffs The washable satin model pictured has regulation coat sleeves of mannish type; the blouse of wash able crepe shows the new full sleeve quite fiat at the armhole but bulgfpg to generous width below the elbow and then tapering in again at the wrist. This blouse is very dainty, both in color and material. There are hemstitched tucks across front and back and the small collar, slashed into points at the sides is trimmed with crochet ball buttons, These buttons weight narrow tie of flesh pink silk and weight dangling ornaments on the sleeves.
 Overtime waist blouses are shown in many materials; one of the prettest models comes from Cheruit and is of citron-colored crepe de chine. hand embroidered with blue beads. Every Cheruit blouse has pockets of one sort or another and this model shows them outlined with rows of the tiny beads,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09
ASpor0t Blouse ln Simple Tailored Sty yIe but Fashioned of fSoftWhite Washable Satin

These Things are usfally of chiffon or very thin silk for there must be no
 suggestion of SubStantiability about the spring blouse The lining is quite separate from the blouse and is pro-
 vided with sleeves so that the color, or tint, shows through the net every where One may have a pale blue lining, pale pink and a pale yellow lining for ones net blouse, or wear it over an elaborate lace brassiere in pure white. The net blouse pictured is a good model in the tailored style. Groups of tucks on blouse and sleeve are very effective as trimming and the wide collar and cuff. fitted with pintucks are exceedingly smart. The broad tabot frill is a modish note of this season that should not be over- looked. These graceful frills escape
 from the unfastened fronts of new spring jackets though the blouse. col lar and cuffs are hidden under the jacket. The line of closely set but
 tons down the front is another inn portant style detail for spring. Some of the French blouses of white net
 have short sleeves-quite above the elbow with little plisse frills at the edge. Delightfully."- pretty are these new elbow-sleeved models which will surely be immediately taken up with enthusiasm, once they become known to American women; for nobody loves a long sleeve in summer time. The short sleeve blouse, however, is in- tended only for dressy wear at mat inee or restaurant, or at home in the afternoon, and there is absolutely no authority for wearing anything but long sleeve with any other sort of blouse.
 Button In- Back Models Appear Again.
 Not few of the new blouses fasten at the back and one of these models is pictured. costume blouse of daf- fodil Georgette, with many pintucks and some beads. This is an over-the- waistline model, and the outer tunic has very large armholes outlined with beads The sleeves are drawn into narrow bracelets trimmed with the beads. tiny frills of the Georgette fall ing over the hand at the outer side The tiny white milk beads are sewed in groups on Nattier blue vel vet ribbon and make striking trim- ming for the blouse. A Paquin button- in-back blouse is made of soiree silk in white, flesh or yellow with sleeves of matching chiffon. The back fas- tens with three silk-covered buttons placed on an oblique flap, and the front drapes itself in a sort of re- versedi hood effect to show a vest of
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09
2 r1Hrly Tucks arad Buttons Closely Grouped, Tr,lrn uae HeW NetWaisJs The Beau
 Br'umrnelF FriH is & aHoteWorstIy Texture Chenise Tunics of Chiffon Most Graceful Garment In Womdn's Wardrobe In Years Button In Back
 Models and Short Sleeues A gain Fauored Bu Fashion = Cashmere Sport Shirts

gl& HE new spring blouses are so A soft and sheer that most of
 them can be drawn through a
 bracelet, and in consequence grace and daintiness are their salient characteristics Chiffons, crepe Georgette. softest silks, washable satfn. lace and crepe tde chine are the materials used for the more dressy models. the matinee and costume blouses which will accompany spring tailored suits of silk, serge and the wool and mohair weave which is so fashionable in Paris just now. Sport blouses, and the simpler tub models Tor wear with separate skirts, of which there are numberless new styles, are of washable silks, hand kerchief linen and organdy-the lat ter fabric having tremendous vogue for blouse wear Just now. New and excessively smart is the cashmere sport shirt, a trimly mannish affair with link cuffs and turnover collar like a masculine negligee shirt, and cut amply to fit in the loose, graceful manner desired without gathers or tucks at the shoulder. These cash mere blouses have been the rage at Aiken during the winter sport season ana have been worn with riding and golfng costumes by the women whose word on dress is authoritative. The finest all-wool cashmere is used white cashmere almost Invariably and the blouse is stitched within and without with. silk thread, even the seams showing this mark of exclusive finish. The white cashmere blouses are supposed to 1aunder satisfactorily
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

green beads. and mounted with Jade
 bracelet handles, jade ring and tasa sel depending from the bottom. Snake handles are also popular on these pouch bags. The snake. made of beads and holding it's tail in its mouth l makes bracelet. and q pair of snakes
 make twin bag handles. '
 One handsome bag with bracelet
 handles is made of a strip of ancient
 Chinese embroidery in wonderful
 shades of Chinese blue, pale apricot
 and cherry blossom pink. Yellow and
 black are blended with these colors
 in the border. The bracelet handles
 are of imitation amber and the hand-
 some tassels are of silk combining the
 shades in the Chinese embroidery
 Another bag is beaded allover in pale
 gray with leaf design in green and
 green letters in a wreath of pink. shaded roses. This bag boasts n hammered silver frame and silver chain handle. a,,e
 Very beautiful examples of spring reticules are two other beaded bags. The pouch shape is used in both in. stances though one bag has a head ing above the drawstrings and the other is finished with narrow silk pulling. The larger bag Is of French blue panne velvet with steel beading at top and bottom and very interest ing rope handles made of steel beads. The other bag is entirely covered with bronze green beads and the handles are of black ribbon. Until one un- dertakes to revive ones past-and-gone of beadwork, the late advance in steel bead prices has not interested one greatly: and one Is ant to be rather overcome by it. Beads that used to be 10 cents string are now 75 cents, and many of the ste, es are out of the beads ana cannot prorn4 :sc when ths.! --:N Ec-'.- -1..--AA Ytu3E
 Two elaborate evening bags dareF typical examples of bag luxury for spring. Evening bags are growing larger and now hold number of things beside kerchief and opera glass. One of these bags is of gold lace and French blue soiree silk, with a posy of gold roses and a cape collar of, fancy in a theatre bag-fine machine em broidery mounted on real Val enciennes lace. The other bag is a. very capacious affair made of pale pink satin, shirred lace. gold and pink galloon and bands of ruff1ed net or, which are festoons of pink and uaanva silk roaAh>a@~~
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

embroidery such as has been de- scribed, done with two shades of pink sewing silk on epaulet-yoke and cuffs The blouse is entirely made by hand save for the hemstitching and picot edge on cuff and collar. These ,chemise tunics come in white and pale colors and also in navy blue. plum. brown and other dark shades.
 Net BlOuscs Over Colored Linings.
 Another evidence of the fancy for color in blousewear is the placing of tinted Things under airy net blouses.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

and they will if very carefully treated and not submitted to very hot water, too strong a soap or too hot an tron-but dry cleaning is the best way to freshen them, and most wom- en buy four or five so that there may be no delay while soiled models are at the>cleaner's. x.. ze
 Colored Organdy Combined With
 White.
 A, great many of the dainty organdy blouses show touches of color and some are of colored organdy with white touches. The ~color' is in- variably the palest tint, for daintiness IS the keynote in new blousewear, and only flesh pinks, soft, faint blues. a creamy tan and palest daffodil yell lows are permitted. Colored blouses of this sort have fine hand embroid- cries done in white, closely set rows or small pearl buttons and narrow hems of white organdy for trinfmine. The white blouses show narrow hems in color and lines of embroidery In the new running stitch" or "darn- tng-stitch," done with ordinary sew ing silk. This new embroidery is tbe craze in Paris now and is put on frocks as we'll as blouses. When there are several lines of the darning- stitch put close together in shaded tones of one color, the effect is very dainty, and the trimming may outline straight edges or be curved in scroll effect.
 Pintucks Everywhere.
 Fullness, this year, is almost in- variably put, in with pintucks so that there is no effect of bulkiness any.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09
Letting Down the Sport Skirt Modishlv

GOOD many women are going to Y be. put to it. this season, to
 devise ways to eke out last sum- = Liners skirts so that they may ap- proxfmate the new length. It is no more the fashion to wear outrageously short skirts and already such CO.'S tunes are beginning to look, not only passe, but common and 1oud-as ex- treme fashions often do when their day has passed. The new skirt falls well over the top of the buttoned street boot, and just escapes the ankle. Sport skirts may be a trife shorter, but they hide the top edge of the but toned walking boot-and one notes that tho new boots are a little lower too. Perhaps there is no quicker or more effective method for bringing skirts down than the lowering of boot tops. Most women realize that skirts short enough to show even an inch of hosiery above the boot-top are awk- ward and ungainly, butt boots have been very high and skirts have kept apace with them. The moment boots become lower at the top, skirts will reach down to cover the stocking.
 Very short women are not going to have much trouble about lengthening their skirts. Most of them took tucks'' last season under f1ounces or other trimmings and these tucks can easily be let out; but the tall woman who bought good looking skirts which were just the right length will not be so fortunate. Manufacturers are not prone to allow any excess of material even in hems-the idea .of a tuck for future letting down in any ready made skirt is unimagihable! Manu- lecturers have really reduced the mat ter of economy in workmanship to a science. Never is a facing of the material permitted where cheaper fabric will serve, and sometimes seams that should be sewed with silk-and would be, did not the manufacturer know how careless women are about anything but externals-are run up with cheap thread substitutes, to the ultimate detriment of the costume, however engaging the first few ap- pearances thereof.
 Last years skirt may be let down In, several ways, however. It may be cut apart through the center and pieced out with strip of lining ma- terial, deep founce covering the niacin1. A sash of the f1ounce ma
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

glazed kid just from Paris. The frame IS of composition, bordered with small rh1nestones and the handle is flat, like a leather strap. Another oval bag of gray glazed kid has frame of imitation tortoise-shell and the same slender trap-handle. A yoke design Is outlined on the sides of the oval bag with rows of stitching done with sew ing silk in darker gray shade. Still another bag of high degree is of black glazed kid with high, curving frame of red enamel engraved in gold. Wing shaped sections of Paisley shawl material are looped over the black kid bag.
 Some of the Paisley bags are ap-.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

where. Pintucks are run in across the shoulders at back as we'll as front,
 and sometimes groups of these tiny tucks control the fullness of the sleeve, above the cuff. In several of today's pictured blouses you will note the dainty pintucking that is so much more fashionable than shirring or gathers. In the chiffon chemise blouse, one of the prettiest and smart est models pictured, the pintucks are simply laid in the material at top of sleeve and edge of yoke and are not
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

stitched below. but the effect is much softer than would be the case had gathering threads been used These chemise blouses are delightful addi- tions to woman's wardrobe-no other garment brought out recently has possessed more grace. Such blouse is becoming to any figure, even stout one, for the material falls so softly and the knotted sash may be adjusted
 high or low to suit the lines of the silhouette. The blouse pictured is of flesh pink chiffon with running stitch
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09
/zmhzon PuIg 3beczaI L1zQ/5as2z5 onIZH7dGa65

~ HE handbag is now almost as ~ important an item of the cos
 tune as the boot-and that is
 saying good deal for women have been putting a good deal of stress on the footwear question dur ing the last few years. But a smart and modern handbag one must carry, or own to serious blot on ones sartorial escutcheon; and moreover, since the handbag is now composite part of the correct toilette, several different kinds of bags must be num- bered among ones supply: for the bag carried with the tailored suit would never, never do with formal afternoon costume, orkvice versa.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09
TEA CADDIES GAY WITH corn
 LACE. f

THE French crazo for brocade and
 gold lace knick knacks about the
 house has extended even to the tea caddy-not the tea cozy, which one might quite expect to assume a !uxurlous gold lace and brocade jacket. put the supposedly entirely utilitarian caddy which holds the "makings'' of the cup that cheers. A very smart new tea caddy is covered on its four sides with Chinese silk embroidery, the sections joined at the corners un- der gold lace braid. A round cover projecting from the top of the souare caddy is made of gold lace over silk the metal underneath being entirely concealed.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1917-02-09

terial will complete the altered skirt. A false hem and several tucks of new material may be added; or the upper part dropped below yoke and a drapery used to cover the yoke. A sport skirt may be dropped on a yoke of contrasting material. the dropped part scalloped at the upper edge and buttoned to the yoke.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21

TEere will be a gas boat leave Juneau for this port with mail toRighs at 12 o'clock.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
FIRE THREATENED
 FIFTH AVE. HOTEL

At S:15 o'clock last night an al- arm of fire was sounded, and the report rapidly spread about that the Fifth" Avenue hotel was burn ing.
 Responding with aYidity to the alarm, members of the Volunteer Fire Department soon had lines of hose from nearby hydrants, and as the fire had originated in a small shed on the alley back of tue hotel, the fire fighters had little difficulty in confining the flames to the little building.
 With the high wind that was blowing, and the great number of small cut buildings huddled close up to the one in which the fire originated, it was a most fortunate thing that water was hosed quickly to the scene, for had the flames gotten well under way, it might have been a hard fight to save the old hotel and adoining sheds.
 The cause of the fire is un- known, but as the sheds are now ana have been unoccupied for sev- eral years, it is thought that pos sibly some person might have gone into the dark building just for cur iosity and in order to see better, lighted a match and failed to see that it was thoroughly out before leaving. iri k
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
Re2She1 @zI
 RezX X u uAhs

The Ffremen will clash with the Elks team tonight at the w. P. gym, and from the game that both aggregations of basket ball players have put up, the game tonight should be one replete with fast and furious plays.
 l. is up to the Elks to win this game tonight if they are to be in for the finals, and each member of the team has been working hard to be in perfect trim for the contest. The lineup of the sg two -eams will be the same as formerly, and each side will have its root CTS out in force.
 There will be a dance after the game and the skagway Brass band will furnish the music. Popular prices. ..,
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
WILL PLAY, THEY
 ARE CHILDREN FRIDAN

This is the week of song, which is being observed throughout the Nation, in rommemoration of the songs our great grandmother and great grandfather and their fath- CTS and mothers used to sing, as we'll as the songs that their chil- dren sang.
 Friday night at the assembly room of the Skagway school a reg ular old time song night will be celebrated, and all are invited. This is only for the grown-ups, and on that occasions they will turn back the pages of time and once more play the games of youth and sing the songs of childhoobs happy hours. These (for a night only) children will also feast on the good things that appealed to the tastes of childhood, and each one attend ing is asked to bring Boms good old fashioned lunch.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
MAKING IRON MONEY
 IN AUTSRIA NOW

London, Feb, 20-In the annual bullion circular Of MessrS. Samuel Montague 6 Co., the manner in which the Austrians make iron mon ey Is described as follows:
 ''The problem of protecting the pieces from rust has been solved by sniper-imposing R slight layer of zinc, The discs of metal. together with some zine powder, are placed in 8 vessel, and heated for 8 cer- tain time at a temperature some what below that Of the melting point of zinc, wherau2on 8 surface is formed upon the discs, which not only preserves the pieces from uuat, but also enables tha die to be impressed without cracking the surface of the metal. This zinc pIated iron money hardly differs either iR aspect or weight from that formed of nickel.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
SILVER MEDAL
 PROGRAM
Song America Audience Devotional Exercise
 Song-Public School

Song America Audience
 Devotional Exercise
 Song-Public School Contestant No. No Cigarette for Me.
 Contestant No.2-Cut It Out. Contestant No. 3-Wanted A Boy.
 Song-Public School Contestant No. A Small Boys Ambition. Contestant No. My Trumpet. Contestant No. 1.-Two Fortunes.
 Song-Publc School Contestant No. Dots Christmas. Contestant No. My Vision Contestant No. 8 - How a PreAibi- tion Club Was Formed.
 song-Public School Contestant No. 4-The Temperance Call.
 Contestant No. 5-A Knot of White Ribbon. Contestant No. 6-What Kind of Boys Are Needed.
 Song-Public School
 Silver Offering Public school will entertain while judges are making decision. Names of contestants, Group One --Kenneth Blanchard, John Hanson Philip Olsen, Armand Chaliff, Ralpl Wheeler, Stewart Larson. Group Two - Pauline McCann, Eileen Lynch, Ivy Johnson, Lela Wheeler, Dorothy Clark, Dorothy Landsborough.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
S1OO Reward, SIOO

The readers of this paper will be pleased to learn that there Is at least one dreaded disease that science has hees able to cure in all its stages. and tEat is Catarrh. Halls Catarrh Cure Is the only positive cure Lcw known to the medical Fraternity. Catarrh being q constitutional disease, requires constitutional treat ment. Halls Catarrh Cure Is taken in- formally. acting directly upon the blood and mucous surfaces Of the system, there- by destroying the foundation of the dis ease. and giving the patient strength by building up the constitution and assisting nature in doing its work. The proprietors have so much faith in Its curative pow CTS that they offer One Hundred Dollars for any case that 1t fails to cure. Send for list of testimonials.
 Address: F. J. CHENEY 6 TO. Toledo O
 Sold by all Druggists. T5e.
 Take Halrs Family Pills for constipation
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
WILL OBSERVE
 1HE HOLIDAY
skagway, Feb. 21, 1917

Skagway, Feb. 21, 1917
 Tomorrow, Washington's birthday will be generally observed by the merchants of Skagway. L. A. Harrisan and Co.,, James Kennedy, Alber+, Reinert, P. H Ganty, Ped ersen Bros, Dortero & Son, Frye Bruhn and Co.,, c w. Ask and Sons, will close their respective places at noon, while The Bank of Alaska, the Public School will be closed al day, and the U. s. cable office will only be open from 10 to Il o'clock in the forenoon and from 6 to ' o'clock in the even ing. The Post Office wEll observe Sunday hours, being open only from 12 to o'clock in the afternoon.
 Thanking you for your kind at tention WE will close, again greet ing you on Friday afternoon.
 The Daily Alaskan
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21

EMEN-Be offer you Har- mony Pipe Blend Rs ha newest
 discovery ia tha aEt oG blending tobaccOs. 15c, In .tEs ersam-col-
 ored-r ut brown hn. 'Reifsr Bros.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21
You Don't Eat Half Enough
 Ice Cream

WHY HERE'S the most NATURAL FOOD there is,- SWEET sKAGWAY CREAM, flav ored
 AND FROZEN, that's all-holdin MORE ENERGY and nourishment to
 THE HATEFUL than twice az much
 BEEFsTEAK, and you've been THINKING OF IT as 8 tidbit, A SWEET, to be eaten on rare occasions. WHY t
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21

The Princess Sophia sailed from Vancouver last evening at nine o'clock and will arrive in this port Saturday morning.
 Word received today at the Pa cific S. S. office from Juneau, states that the City of Seattle will arrive in this port between the hours of five and seven o'clock to- morrow morning. If she does not call in at Jualin northbound she will arrive at the first hour men tioned, but if she does make the stop, she will not get here until the later hour. r di
The daily Alaskan., 1917-02-21

(subscrlba eOr sAal pailU alaSkaR)