davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16
If the Bulge Is Right
Nothing Else Matters

The bulge is so all-important that woman
is hopelessly out of fashion unless she follows
its movements. She may wear the wrong color,
compromise on fabric that is slightly out Of
fashion or combine materials that were not in
tended for each other at their sources, but she
will not put bulge where bulge should not
be. She will work overnight, be extravagant
and lose her temper merely to avoid wearing
skirt that goes out in the wrong place, sleeve
that flares where it should not, hip line that
is concaye when it ought to be convex.
What in common garden English we call
"the bulge" the French more elegantly term
''the movement" 1t is interesting and puzzhng
TO those who go TO Paris the first time and
hear the discussion Of dress in the ateliers of
those who design and sell clothes, to hear the
two words-"the movement -punctuate every
sentence.
If the movement of gown is right, or If a
celebrated designer, through the hands and
the fabric, brings a new movement into an ac-
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16
The High Neck
Gains Power

No one can say with authority that the hisn
neck has entirely swept out of being the %"
neck. American women are obstinate ep
corning the high boned collar, and in this ID"
display kinship to the Englanders.
When women discuss the fashion that eau
for material to the chin they accept with0'.
cavil, the fact that fashion goes one way s's
comfort and inclination another. They w.
they will not wear high collars, but each w,
sees certain evidence that their will IS ws.A'
ening. Already there are smart women WV
are dressing for the street as they dlo ~
years ago, with cutaway coat suits and ~a'.
shirts with high, turnover collars, under "n''s
are 1917 stocks Of black picot-edged RIBBON. =.
In gowns, the high neck dominates. {"
achieved in various ways, some OF whlcn =.
medieval and pleasing. If women cry ou! ~
more warmth this wintey they can 80 0.-
to the fifteenth century without reserve ~
their clothes inspiration, and among these
dieval fashions one finds the panel OF
broidered or braided material, which oin',.
in color from the rest of the frock or "a. |.
and runs high under the chin. In those dsy"
was a chest protector; in these days "
smart accessory TO a suit or blouse. -
The shops are showing these psne' -. -.
their high collars and skeleton backs -
newest kind of waistcoats, but the
and furriers are inserting them into sns
ments they build
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16
Bv ANNE RITTENF
The Oriental Influence i'm Clothes Aga

though their dye may be only bottle OF red
ink They will tell you that all Of their labor
Is for the sake of economy. 1t IS not. IL is
qualification of their own desires. In thelr
hearts they prefer a new sash to new frock'
n new design in embroidery to homespun
suit.
These women will have their hearts delight
this season, for the fundamentals are few
and the accessories many. Camoufage is the
word that has spread over the planet, and II
is n word that no longer refers to war, but is
forever incorporated in the language Of
people A new sash is camoufiage on an OLD
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16

Shows in the bias movement of fabric which the
dressmakers are trying to substitute for the straight
movement - The oblique line is said to make
women look simmer and more youthful -Sashes
are used to camouflage old gowns to look like new
ones Mliners introduce new kind of turban
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16

a substitute for a sweater. It is worn as the
Canadian soldiers wear it, crossing over the
front and back in oblique lines, with the long
ends tucked through the part that forms the
belt in front and dropping down with their
fringe to ten inches below the waist.
II you have not seen one OF these new
sweaters you cannot imagine how much more
graceful and out of the commonplace they
are than the knitted garment of which most
of US are heartily weary, unless 1t Is INTENDED
for a man in the trenches.
Whenever the girdling of the hips becomes
a first fashion sashes leap up on high PIN
nacle and proclaim their presence with trum-
peting authority.
Throughout the ages sashes come and go,
much TO the amusement and interest of
women, especially those women who see in ac-
ccssories the most diverting part of fashion
able apparel.
Some minds work along the line of adjuncts
In clothes, rather than fundamentals. In every
little group of women there is one, or probably
more. who will burn the midnight oil to create
or attach new and fashionable accessories to
an old gown. In the addition Of sash, the
placement Of rose, the application Of a bit of
jet, new cuffs or gold cord, they find their
chief pleasure in clothes.
They are the women who keep scraps. They
haunt the bargain counters that sell accesso-
ries. They delight in the aisles given over to
and pressing and dippinSintO fresh dye, even
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16

tulle hin covering up over the face and some
times catch it across to the turban with tin!
jewelled pin. 1t presents new note in nil
linery.
Once upon time women wore loose head
coverings in the evening. That was before
closed limousines and hair nets. Such bits Of
comfort and fnery have been discarded for
years, but they have returned to fashion ff
some reason, probably connected with the var
and It's economies. They are made in the shsp
Of hoods, some astonishingly like Little Rsd
Riding Hoods bonnet, done in sealsin and
scarlet or Italian blue velvet.
Others are caps Of gathered tulle in thfes
or four colors, one layer superimposed on the
other to build a rainbow foundation.
Again, others look like the Red Cross
nurses cap, fastening at the'back with brosa
scarfs of velvet and fur that protect the meek
above the line Of the evening wrap.
These hoods, taken with the Oriental eus'
ban, with its imitation Of a harem veil, sr
significant of change in millinery. At less'
they present an allure to the woman who
looking for something that it not sailor D"
made Of black velvet.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16
AGAIN THE
APRON

The blouse is OF gray
chiffon, the apron Of >>A2sQ
silver lace. Black satin skirt
and sash Of the chiffon. Hat
of gray jersey faced with
lack satin and embroidered in black and silver.
complished result, the whole fashion Of the
season is changed.
1t is in the movement Of fabric that the
manufacturers rest their hopes Of making
fortunes. They know the public. They know
the minds Of women. They know that all kinds
of secretive, and sometimes pernicious,
economy viii be practised in the camouhage
which converts old clothes into new, but that
all such economy is thrown to the winds when
q new movement becomes the fashion, and
through its sinuous lines, throws all others
into the discard.
The different curves which clothes have
taken during the last two years are too IA
miliar TO women's minds TO recount them. They
are as easily remembered by the woman who
dresses well as famous pitchers curves are
by baseball fan.
And these women, who watch the develop
ment of line in clothes more than the intro
duc,ion OF new colors or fabrics, are now in,
terested in thak Oriental movement which is.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-16

gown, and as such it plays an important part
in the development of this seasons clothes.
These sashes have the bias movement; they
girdle the hips in oblique lines; they tie at the
side; they form an apology for hustle in
the back; they are now in front, in the priml-
tive fashion; they are fringed, embroidered,
stenciled or made Of Batik.
They are the connecting link between
blouse Of one kind and skirt of another, and
they soften and make harmonious the joining
of these two opposing garments
Sometimes they have bibs and aprons at
tached to the front, and then they become
sashes de luxe. Usually these peasant ac-
cessories are made of old silver lace, which
has come into high fashion this winter, in
keeping with the fact that necessities are diff
cult to obtain, but luxuries easy. You may not
be able to bdy woolen undergarment, but
you can wear silver lace apron.
This apron, with its bib, collar and sash that
ties in the back, is built into complete ac-
cessory and sold to go over any gown which
needs to be enlivened and camouflaged.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

patch from Petrograd filed on Tues
day night reads:
A passenger steamer and a flotilla
of tugs brought several thousand
sailors, soldiers, workmen and work
women from Kronstadt to Petrograd
this morning. They bore banners
inscribed "Kronstadt Anarchists
Club; Down with authority, Long
live the commune"
"At the corner of Nevsky Pros.
peet and Sadovaya street, provoca.
tive firing was started. similar to
that of last night II was followed
by the opening of random machine
gun and rifle fire. There was more
firing still later in the Litenany Pros.
pect. the people in the street taking
refuge in the court yards OF the
houses and on the rear stairways
Part of the Kronstadt party made a
pilgrimage to the villa Of Mile
Kshasinska from which the agitatol
Lenlne addressed them"
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
FAKER TELLS Of
NAVAL BATTLE
WILD REPORTS GROWING OUT
OF STORY TOLD BY A
BUM

fASsAlC, NJ ]. July 19-The man
VINO started rumors OF disaster to
american warships which grew into
WIG reports that the New York
naval hospital was crowded with
wounded men is believed to have
oeen found today in the person of
Charles f. Knapp.
District attorney Lynch has OBJ
nlned confession from Lynch
which Is said to contain a vivid pic
lure Of the imaginary blowing up
Ot an American dreadnaught. The
prisoner, who was sentenced to a
year in Jail on a charge of disorder
" conduct probably viii be the
subject of a federal grand jury in
yestigation.
hnapp's purpose in spreading the
STORY, It is said. was to profit finan.
elSliy from sympathy he aroused by
elaiming to be one of the survivors
ot the battle" He was dishonor
ably discharged from the U. s. s
Hancock In 1909.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

PETROGRAD, July 19.-An extra
ordinary cabinet council is discuss
ing proposal to transfer the seat
of the provisional government to
Moscow. The general staff build
ings and winter palace square are
headquarters for the government for
ees which are bivouacked there with
cannon. 1t is believed that decisive
stage between the forces Of order
and disorder is rapidly approaching.
The council OF workmen and sol
diers announces that the general as
sembly will be held at Moscow to
prevent interference from the ir-
responsible section In Petrograd.
Garrisons and questions of policy
will be held in abeyance. pending
suppression of the Bolshevih element
which for two days has kept the city
in turmoil. There is little doubt the
government is strong enough TO sup
press any uprising.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
West End Ships
Regular Bullion

= The second cleanup for the .
= month of June from the West =
= End mill resulted in the produc- =
= tion of 20 bars of bullion weigh .
= ing 46,76S ounces which, under .
= the readjustment of valuation in =
= eidental to the sharp advance =
. in silver above the so cent mark, .
. would carry value for the gold =
= and silver content Of at least =
= sl05 an ounce. Last year when =
= the average price of silver was =
= 650s cents the average value of .
= the West End bullion was rated =
= at .S7S cents an ounce. All set =
. Elements are made on the basis =
= Of the quotation obtaining on the =
= day the bullion is received at the .
= refinery therefore the West End
. shipment is worth approximately =
= s4s.l JOG. =
i 4 a a
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
MAJORITY REICHSTAG
UNANIMOUSLY FAVOR
PEACE RESOLUTION

gamut of diverse speculation, but
as yet nothing has been evolved
from the many unofficial discus
sions of the man and his ideas and
intentions on which anything like
certainty can be based.
Some writer's express the belief
that the new chancellors leanings
will be towards the peace views of
the majority bloc in the reichstag;
others have advanced the opinion
that his policy will be that of the
militaristic party and there are
others who consider the assump-
tion of office merely part of a
stop-gap program preliminary to
the formation of something in the
nature of a dictatorship.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
FOOD DISCUSSION Is
APPROACHING AN END

council and its advisory bodies.
Those who had advocated it de-
clared it was entirely satisfactory to
the administration and council mem
bers.
During the discussion senator Pom
creme declared no serious criticism
could be lodged against the councils
advisory committee and that its use
fulness should not be crippled by
passage of the original committee
amendment, which its opponents pre-
dicted might prevent the prominent
men who have been serving as com
missioners without pay from con
tinuing in their positions.
Senators Reed and others insisted
that all that was sought was to pre-
vent contracts of their own supplies
being controlled by the commission
ers.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
VOTE ON FOOD
CONTROL BILL
KENYON AMENDMENT REJECTED
BY VOTE or a TO 26.
IN SENATE

WASHINGTON, July 19.-The Sen.
ate rejected by A to 26 the Ken
yon amendment to extend the food
control bill to iron ore, and its
products, hemp, binding twine, farm
implements and tools. This is taken
to indicate confinement of govern
ment control to foods and fuel. An
implied endorsement was given Hoov-
er when the senate rejected the
Reed amendment to have the bill ad-
ministered by a board of five instead
of three.
An amendment by Senator Husting
proposing to authorize the president
by proclamation to place under gov,
ernment control any produce or any
articles he might deem necessary
was rejected by 5S to Is.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
MOSCOW MADE TEMPORARY SEAT
Of THE RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT

Most of those killed yesterday were
in sight of the Nadezhdenskaia when
the Moscow Bolsheviki troops open
ed fire on unarmed Cossacks pass
ing in the Nevsky Prospect Their
own firing started a panic in which
five of their number were killed and
twenty wounded.
The Maximalists have asked for
more help from Kronstadt, most of
the Kronstadt contigent having re-
turned home last night 1t is rum
ored tonight that a second influx
of Kronstadt sailors might be ex-
pected before night
"The st. Peter and ST. Paul fort
ress. although commanded by Max
imalist legion. apparently is not in
full sympathy with the isurrection-
lists. The garrison at the fortress
refused the demand of a machine
gun eontigent OF the Maximalists to
give them arms.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
COMFORT KITS
GO TO FRANCE

WASHINGTON. July 19.-Hurried
orders which resulted in thousands
of comfort kits being rushed to Red
Cross headquarters here some time
ago were explained here today by
members of the Red Cross war
council, who said the kits were re-
quested by the war department for
General Pershing's force in France.
In a message of thanks for the
gifts General Pershing said
These things cause the soldier
to remember that the people at
home are behind them"
Writing paper, tobacco, knives
and other articles are the gifts in
kits and the Red Cross is preparing
many more for sending to the battle
front.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
SOLDIER KILLED
IN DERA|LMENT
FIVE OTHERS INJURED IN
IN WREcKiNG OF A SLOW
MOVING TRAIN.
tBy Associated Preaa.l

MARSHALL, July 29.-One Ameri-
can soldier, William Stonebreaker,
was Killed and five other soldiers in
jured, one seriously when Iour coach
es of troop train turned complete
ly over and three other cars were de-
rallied at Shamrock, on the Texas
and Pacific railroad Railroad Of
licials here say the train was run
ming about II miles an hour when
the accident occurred.
The cause of the wreck has not
yet been determined.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
G0ETHALS NOT GOING
TO GIVE UP SHIPS

the other intelligent difference of
opinion
The only question. 1t is understood
on which the board and General
Goethals are now far apart is that
of wooden construction.
Although General Goethals has let
contracts for many more wooden
ships than he has steel, the shipping
board, it is said, will insist that
the types he intends to build is too
slow of construction.
Reports that General Goethals will
resign unless given the fullest
authority to carry out the program
he has announced are discredited
The general himself, asked about
rumors Of his resignation merely
said
q am soldier and a man in my
position appointed to place yir-
tually is under orders"
Al the shipping board II was made
clear that despite differences there
is no intention to ask General Goe-
thals to quit.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

lily Associated Fress.p
WASHINGTON. July 19. - Mem
hers of the shipping board and Major
General Goethals, manager of the
boards fleet corporation. who are
AT odds over the governments ship
building program at lengthy con.
ference went over the generals pro
posaIs for constructing government
ship yards and for speeding up ton.
mage now building.
The shipping board. chairman Den
man said, wants more information be-
fore 1t approves the general mana
gers program, but Goethals said he
thought he had submitted most of
the information asked for
Neither side would say what are
the points of difference over the
program. Chairman Denman intimat-
ed that all dlsagreements would be
settled satisfactorily.
There are no personal differen.
ces," he said, only one Of policy.
| know OF no difficulties that could
not be adjusted between two rational
persons, each willing to coneede to
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

the war-utterances that naturally
will be momentous inasmuch
they will indicate whether with the
recent changes in the German gov
ernment, Germany is to continue
her warfare without abatement, or
whether the desires for peace that
have been heard so often in Ger
many and especially in the reich
stag, are anything but empty ex-
pressions
The probable attitude of the
chancellor already has run the
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

NY Associated frens.D
WASHINGTON. July 19.-Senate
consideration Of the administration
food control bill. begun a month ago
today is approaching an end. Voting
upon amendments began yesterday
and discussion will proceed under
ten minute limit towards the final
vote to be taken Saturday.
Only one amendment has been dis
posed OF but that relating to sales
BY government agents of their own
products to the government has been
before the senate almost exclusive.
ly for a week.
A redraft of the provision Of
Tered by Senator Pomerene was
adopted tentatively, but probably
finally by vote of 54 to II. 1t is
designed to meet. especially. the sup.
ply purchase system OF the defense
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
MEN
CALL A STRIKE
MEDlAToRS FAIL TO BRING
MINERS AND OPERATORS
CLOSES TOGETHER

NY Associated Press.l
DENVER, Colo, July 19.-All hope
of preventing the strike of metali.
ferrous miners in the Leadville, Colo,
district has been abandoned and the
strike which has been postponed
pending conferences will be called
on or before Saturday morning.
Information to this effect was tel
egraphed to the department of labor
at Washington by mediators appoint
ed by the department in an effort
to avert the strike
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
FOOLISH WOMEN
ARE PARDONED

(By Associated Press.l
WASHINGTON, July 49, The
president today pardoned the suf-
fragettes sentenced to jail for six
ty days.
The woman's party leaders express
sed surprise at the presidents ac-
tion and declared the picketing
would not stop because of it. The
president gave no statement.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
.BRANDE|S GRANTS
GOLDMAN APPEAL
my Associated Press, ,


WASHINGTON. July 19. Asso,
eiate justice Brandeis granted Emma
Goldman and Alexander Berkman per-
mission to appeal their cases to the
supreme court. There are the first
cases involving the draft law to
reach the supreme court.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
EYES OF THE WORLD ARE TURNED ON GERMANY TODAY
MEN WILL Be DRAFTED
FOR ARMY TOMORROW

lists OF numbers by telegraph is q
tremendous problem, but the press
associations and telegraph compan-
les are making efforts to insure
both speed and absolute accuracy in
transmission. There is more con-
cern over the task OF the individual
newspapers. In large communities
the problem of printing serial num-
bers with the names of the men they
represent is one Of staggering pro-
portions.
The problem of alien registrants
other than enemy aliens came before
the senate yesterday in resolution
introduced by senator Chamberlain,
chairman of the military committee
1t provides for the drafting for mill
tary services of citizens of count
ries at war with Germany who are
now residing in the United States.
upon the same terms as American
citizens.
The resolution, seeks to meet the
terms of the state department how
ever by excepting from its action
citizens of countries which have
treaties with the United States pro-
viding the enforced military employ.
ment of the nationals of each party
in the territory of the other. There
has been no indication whether it
will have administration approval.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
SAWM|LLS TIED
UP By |. ". v.
sHlPBulLDING INDUSTRY AZ.
FEcTEo BY ACTION IN
CALIFORNIA

EUREKA, Cal, Julq 19-The lum-
ber mills of Humboldt, Delhorte, and
Mendocino counties are threatened
with tieup as the result of gen.
eral strike call issued by the lum-
ber mills ofHumbodt, Delnorte, and
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
NO SLACKERS IN
MARYLAND STATE
ALL ABLE BODIED MEN MUST
REGISTER FOR MANUAL
LABOR

tBy Associated Press.I
BALTIMORE, July 19.-Goyernor
Harrington has issued a proclama-
tion requiring unemployed able-hod-
led men between the ages os is and
so years in Maryland to register on
or before August 20. The governor
is determined that those who do not
fight shall work.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
WOUNDED AMERICANS
ENTERTAINED IN PARIS
my Associated Press,

LONDON, July, 10. Over $50
wounded American members of the
British army and navy were enter
tanned at Holland park by Red Cross.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

9WNNW HTEWIEF
PETRoGRAD. July 19.-only in
.ne district beyond the Neva have
.ne disturbers assemblance OF con
vol but thus far they are inactive
II Is reported they announced they
are awaiting reinforcements from
krohatadt.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
KILLED IN PETRooRAp

LONDON, July 19.-Reuters Petro-
grad says the killed. and wounded in
two days disorders there are esti.
mated at 500.
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
SUM N AIRY
Of THE WAR
A WEEK
HEAVIEST AIR FIGHTING or THE
WAR ON BRITISH FRONT
WAS A FEATURE

LONDON. July 19.-In the war
summary, General Maurise, chief
director of military operations, says
the British front was noteworthy be-
cause of the heaviest air fighting of
the war with results generally fav-
oring the British. The German pol
icy of harassing the French with
best picked troops was resultless
and shows the Germans are incapa-
BILE of attempting any great effort.
Bad weather, and floods had much to
do with slowing the Russian advance
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19
TODAY AND A YEAR AGO

Official readings OF the ther-
mometer by the United States
observer at Tonopah: 4
Tonopah daily bonanza. [volume] (Tonopah, Nev.) 1906-1929, 1917-07-19

LONDON, July 19. = The British
have reestablished their advanced
positions lost July eleventh east of
Monshy Lepreux. Many prisoners
were made in raids north of Ypres.