davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

There is no disposition to keep the fashion
of long skirts They were tried out last
spring, and, although they might have sue
ceeded under other conditions there is little
chance for them to succeed this winter.
Skirts for the evening will sweep the instep,
and there are short trains to add to their dig
nifty. But skirts for the street are skinny
little things that appear to be merely sop
thrown to convention in order TO keep the
critics from barking and arguing.
One of the important features of the new
fashions is the great muffler worn by all the
soldiers in the trenches, thousands of which
are made by the women over here for the war
relief associations. These new neckpieces are
not knitted. They are made of velvet, duve-
tyn or fur. AS rule, they match the material
of the coat, and they are lined with gay
color, to make them becoming to the skin.
Drecoll started to make this kind of collar
in the early spring, and it proved quite a sue
cess on his coats. To-day every designer in
Paris is making the same kind of collar, and
therefore the conventional turnover neckpiece
with revers will be abandoned.
The average American woman looks very
we'll indeed in a coat that is buttoned to the
neck with a collar that flares above the chin
to the ears. The incoming OF this fashion,
plus the substitution of the narrow for the
moderately wide skirt, will undoubtedly cause
4 most vital and farreachng adjustment, CT
ones costumery. II is not easy to arrange the
new coat fastening out of the coats we have
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09
"Incendie," the New French Red

TT is quite natural that the French should
devise a new shade of red and call it
- "incendie.' There has been enough con-
flagration within the French borders and they
have seen enough of fire for three years to
make them dream of it at night, think of it
in the day, weave it into their fabrics and
paint it on their canvases.
1t is in homespun, cloth, chiffon, tulle, satin
and velvet. If all the women were to adopt it
in this country because it is the first fashion
in colors, it would look as though a nationwide
confiagration had started here.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09


but It will be fashionable to wear half low
frock to the play, to dinners and to number
of brilliant afternoon affairs.
There is a strong attempt to run the fabric
of the evening gown high at the back, to have
it entirely cover the arms and then to open 1t
in square or delta decolletage, after the
manner of the fashions which prevailed during
the American Revolution. When informal
evening gowns are made after this manner,
the upper part is Of transparent material,
such as tulle chiffon or lace
Dyed lace will be feature Of the afternoon
frock 1t will also be used for short peplum
blouses to be worn with coat suits instead of
shirtwaists These blouses will as rule be
belted in an ornate manner.
In one-piecc frocks, long, pleated tunics are
still in fashion. They differ from those of
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

last spring in that they are slashed at the
sides and hang like pleated panel down the
front and back Of the figure from waist to
within few inches of the hem Of the skirt.
These tunics have wide belts of Chinese en-
brodery, braided velvet, dyed lace or metallic
embroidered satin and chiffon.
Skirts are five feet wide. This is not an
absolute measurement of all the hens, but it
is the accepted width among the French
houses. We will probably alter and modify it
to suit our taste and our figures. Think of
the change between it and the courtyard skirts
we've been wearing! In that very fact itself
lies revolution in dress.
All the Chinese colors are in fashion, such
as yellow, that queer gray blue, jade green
and also white trimmed with a brilliant red.
Lanvin, Poiret and others have taken up
the Slavic influences in dress with exceeding
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09
Best for the Evening

Young girls will adopt this brilliant tone
for street costumes and we shall see great
deal of it at the country clubs, at the races
and at the other outdoor sports which will in
all probability go on this autumn even if they
are restricted afterward.
Older women, however should limit the use
of this color to evening gowns or wraps, and
it might be wise for them to narrow it down
to an accessory. A fan, scarf, pair of slip
pers, girdle, may be all they can manage
in such flaming red.
Every face and figure IS not conformable
to this striking color. Several years ago, when
that shade was in fashion in a minor way in
France and America, the artistic designers
yelled it with an odd shade of gray blue that
was picked out with dark blue and silver en-
broidery. A deep shoulder cape of this blue
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

"HE openings in Paris have finished.
Each great house has shown its com
plement of gowns, coats, wraps and
suits. The strain was very great one on the
French designers this summer, because they
had to endure a strike of all their workers,
which was barely settled in time to complete
the enormous supply Of clothes to which they
had invited Americas attention.
Although few of the gowns have been shown
in this country, the decisive factors in fashion
are known to the experts. They may be
summed up in brief outline which will give
women a comprehensive grasp of what they
are to expect in the next two weeks.
Coats have little fitness when they're long,
and none when they're short. They are belted
in some odd manner by variety of fabrics.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

ing about is the use of the separate evening
bodice, which is a revival from other epochs
of extreme economy.
There are an extraordinary number of new
autumn gowns made in pale pink, blue, sea
green and helotrope. Some of them are of
chiffon mingled in clever way and
giving in color effect an instant remem-
brance of Dresden figure.
There are blue satin coats to be worn
over pink chiffon skirts, and there are
heliotrope blouses that melt into pale blue
skirts after they have passed under a swathing
sash of pink blue and heliotrope.
The gown which is shown in the sketch
to-day is of heliotrope gabardine, and it has
that effect of the Vatican pleat at the back
and sides. This frock is made in a somewhat
complicated manner, but it offers several good
features to the woman who is looking for
lines and drapery out of the commonplace.
Contrary to the fashion which is expected to
rule from now on, the neck is open, and wide
revers of the material roll back to show a
gathered vest of white organdy edged with
Valenciennes lace.
The slight, roll over cuffs are also Of white
organdy, and the broad sash that goes across
the front of the waist and disappears under
the Vatican drapery is of heliotrope taffeta.
Every one has feeling of timidity about
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

chiffon would be used or an immense girde
of it, and the gorgeousness of the red would
be instantly toned down to a suitable piece OF
coloring for any one.
Lace Tinted Green
The newest kind of dinner gown that France
and America will probably adopt this season
is shown in the sketch to-day.
1t is made of "incendie" Liberty satin inea
with white chiffon which shows in huge collar
that ripples around the neck without sharp
outline. The long, tight sleeves reach over
the hand, and so far the gown is simple.
But to give the color combination that y
striking but dangerous, the designer has use'
an underskirt with a short train OF Valencieh'
mes lace tinted in pale sea green tone.
The fan is made of the lace mounted 0"
white ivory sticks, for fans, you know, are
be frequently used this winter as an AID
the color scheme of every evening costume
Outside of the color scheme, the fashlon'ns
of this frock is of exceeding interest TO An'e'
leans in war time. There is an argumen'
going on now among dressmakers and las"
ionable women as to the propriety OF the u,eF
decolletage at time like this. NO one =
lieves that the regulation evening attire VII,
foresworn by every one for all occasions W.
there is feeling that for dinners, the ue'" -
and other affairs of less Importance tnan Oa,..
and the opera there will be return 10 ~
gown which is high at the back and 10" !"
the 'front.' >
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

II 10 of slate gray duvetyn, with deep, vest-hke
sweater of leaf green. Deep pockets braided in
acacia leaf design. The collar is cut to the ears
and slightly opened in front. The idea is taken
from the sweater and tightly buttoned jacket
that are worn by the soldiers at the front
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09
What WenDessed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RITTENt40USE
France Sends Skirts Only Five Feet Wide at Hen

isband
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

The line from the instep to the chin is kept
traight. Reveres have been banished in favor
f the military fastening suggested to Paris
" the uniforms of the American soldiers.
Collars are excessively high on blouses,
oats and one-piece frocks.
Sleeves are tight and long and often
fare to the knuckles of the hand. In
certain frocks, the Chinese bell sleeve
is used, dropping over a tight under
sleeve of dyed lace, embroidery or satin
edged at the hand with fur.
Coat suits are made of velour, duve-
\ tyn and a new quality of serge.
Afternoon frocks are made of chiffon
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09
MOTOR COAT FROM DRECoLL

Il is of rough velour with wide cuffs and neck
scarf of white and black velour. The yoke and
sleeves are cut in one, and the broad belt j, Of
the material. The buttons are of wood.
coloring these days. We know that there is
a scarcity of dye, on this continent at least
and that much that has been offered to US as
good has quickly proven bad. However there
is such a surplus in the market Of what is
known as American blue, and also wine color
that it seems to be entirely wise TO risk ones
money on either color when it is put into
good material.
The woman who cannot wear a coat sui
in any shade of red that has flame to it can
find herself we'll attired and comfortable in
deep wine red that borders on garnet and is
often called Bordeaux. She can get this tone
in velour, velvet and duvetyn, and the taior
think that greater number of these suits
than unusual will be seen on the streets after
the first of October.
Bernard, Premet, Chanel and several Others
of the great coat suit makers Of Paris have
decided on jackets that fasten to the neck and
are eHIeUuSu IHIO HlSh NOIclS, dALllOHSh S'SN
are many notifications of this primary treat.
ment.
The sketch to-day shows new suit Of marine
blue velour, with plain skirt wide enough TO
be comfortable and short packet that is made
on severely slim lines. The skirt is Of blue
velvet, so are the collar and cuffs, and the coat
is of blue velour.
There is not the slightest objection on the
part of the most fastidious designer TO mixing
fabrics in this manner. 1t may not be possible
to wear any coat you have with any skirt you
possess, but If good dressmaker is back Of
the costume, most probably you will not get q
skirt and coat of the same material, no matter
what price you pay.
The collar on this suit is cut according 70
the new shape. 1t wellnigh covers the ears
and it slopes down in the back. Evidently
there's no way to show the neck in the street
for the next six months.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

and panne velvet and often
trimmed with ermine. Even
ing gowns have a slight
train, a narrow skirt that
reaches to the instep, and
a more modest decolletage
than we have seen for
several seasons. The ex-
IRENE decolletage will con-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-09

been wearing, but the addition Of the trench
mufTler, with its long ends that hang in front,
may be convenient link between the old and
the new.
The mannish sutings which we have worn
in the street for several years will give way
to velour and duvetyn. These fabrics were
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-06-24

A BEAUTIFUL woman ~ is always a welcome
 guest. Wherever she goes, she attracts court about her and there is no position to which she may not aspire.
 Most of New York's socially elect are, if not beautiful, at least fine looking, possessing that first requi- site of attractiveness, a clean, smooth complexion. They have learned that flawless skin and youthful contours may be achieved by anyone, with the aid of Mrs. Adar's
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
THE AWAKENING OF JAPAN.
RY Claudia Pate.

Up to the nineteenth century Japan
had been an almost hermit country.
She would not let the people from
countries como within her borders
and she would not carry on trade
with any other countries.
Commodore ePrry OF the United
States. in the nineteenth century
persuaded Japan to open her ports
TO The ether countries. japan has
been benefited very much by this act
Il has brought her in connections
w;th other countries Of the world,
but the Japanese people still remain
deeply oriental in custom and religion
The western ciyilizatio with which
she has renewed her national life
is only external At heart she still
has all the mysticism, ali the tanatt
cism OF the mspeakable lost.
Vet Japan has been benefited mater
tally by coming in connection with
the West and at present bids fair to
make yet more wonderful progress.
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
THE FUTURE OF THE ANGLO
SAXON RACE.
NV Puth ScardTett,

The rapidly increasing expansion O!
The Anglo Saxon race has been phe-
nominal Ii is due to the character
of this race. They are Il people WHO
love adventure, who love to seek out
new worlds. And, unlike the Spanish,
wherever they have made a settle
ment. they have made permanent
colony. This colonization Characters
tic is plainly pictured in DeFoe's
Robinson Crusoe.
This probably accounts Tor the llfc
and the prosperity of the Anglo'SaX-
on settlements. The people made the
land in which they lived their home
and from there formed new settle
ments.
Shall this continue? Hellas became
greater Hellas, and her people became
composite Then Rome grew into a
powerful city and overShadoWed all
Greece. But the Romans did not eI-
tinguish the Greeks, their people be
came Greco-ROman. Then came the
Teutonic people, but their people also
absorbed some of the ideas and ideals
OF the Romans and the two people
we're blended into one. And now Will
the Anglo Saxon race dominate tie
world and yet keep her own indiyidu
atty distinct. or will she triumph on
ly to be finally overcome by yet an
other race?
Maybe we have our answer in ON
own United States. In this melting
pot" the foreign people keep some OF
the customs and thoughts of THEN
homeland, but they adopt in one gen
Grafton the greater part of the Gus
toms of the Americans, and are domi
mated by Anglo-SaXon influence.
And so it may be that the Anglo
Saxons in blending with other races
will by its own strength yet domi
nate the people of the world-it Il
magnificent thought
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
SOME VITAL QUESTIONS OF
TODAY.
BY Clarence Smith.

At the present time the German
ruthless subn arine warfare has para
lived the shipping and commerce on
he seas Of the United States, and also
Of the world. II probably will not
1urt the United States as much as
il VIII other nations, such as England.
england is dependent ON other coun-
tries for ner food supply, while the
United States is not; the only damage
TO the United States will be financial
". On account of this the United
states has declared war, or state OF
war with Germany.
From the present outlook on the
western front, it looks as if Germany
will not be able to hold out much lon
ger under the fierce attacks of the
British and French. Germany is on
The point of starvation, since the Uni
ed states entered the war their food
supply through the neutral nations is
cut off.
Democracy has won another victory
over the Monarchy in the overthrow
of the Russian Gar A short while
ago the people of Russia rose in q
revolution and forced the Gar to alb
dicate. But now it is a question as
to which will rule, Anarchists, Demo
Gratis, or MOnarchists. The question
which is in the minds Of good many
people is "Are Russian people pre-
cared to rule themselves" The an
5wer is decidedly in favor of the neg
alive, for has there ever been a refor
nation without n Renaissance? Rus
sia has never had complete Renais
sance and therefore if this revolution
is successful it would be contrary tC
history They must have the c@ninE
of the light of civilization before the!
will experience change, reformation
of their autocracy into democrac!
Of government FOR the people, by The
people, and Of the people
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
THE FUTURE ANGLO-SAXON,


] think that The AnglO-SaXOnS OF the
future will be the greatest and mos
powerful peoples that ever prcdom.-
lated. The English language, Gus
toms, etcA are gradually spreading
throughout the whole world and are
being recognized by the different
countries and races which have had
The doctrine OF Christ preached to
them. The Anglo-SaIons are doing
more toward spreading the teachings
of Christ throughout the he2thern
countries than any other race. This
means that, in later years, everywhere
that they have sent missionaries and
teachers, their language will be es-
tablished and with The language there
will be established the customs Of the
English speaking people: and with
the customs, eventually their system
CT government will be established thus
making one great and powerful ma
ton This seems at present, nerh2pS,
improbable, but if the Anglo-SaXon
race continues its struggle. even If
it does not form one great world ma
ton, it will at least become a greater,
and grander federation in itself.
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13

cation were blended with the newer
civilizations 10 make better ones. AS
the Greco-Orental became Greco-Ro-
mano, then Romano-Germano, it is
hoped that the civilization of the
present European world may com
b;ne with the better qualities of other
countries and form the future civil
zation. This state Of affairs does not
seem improbable to the students who
study the past to get a glimpse of the
'uture. Perhaps, who knows, the fu-
.ura Superman VIII have the vigor
md rcsistless constructive power Of
he new west, tempered with calm
philosophy OF an age-old east.
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
ATHLETIC SUMMARY OF THE
CORDELE HIGH, 1o14-14.

The boys of the High school were
about the same as the year before.
The basket ball line up was the same
with the exception Of Eddie Patterson
who was replaced by Gladstone Elem
ing, who SO we'll held down the place
Of substitute the year before. Glad
stone made us very valuable man
and with him in the line up we were
able to come out that year with a
very good percent, playing seven
vames and winning five Of them. The
games as scheduled were:
Hawkinsville 10; Cordele Is.
Ashburn "A; Cordele II.
Hawkinsville 25; Cordele rs.
Fitzgerald 8: Cordele "a.
Fitzgerald Is; Cordele IS.
Ashburn 0; Cordele 3.
Albany s Cordele 50.
Albany II; COrdele II.
The second game with Ashburn end
ed in a little pugilistic duel between
one of the Cordele boys and one
Of the Ashhurn boys and thus keeping
Ashburn from really saying they were
once beaten DG jH5 NOthtlt bttlSo
The second game with Albany was
ended a tie at the finish and after
a brief rest it was decided to quit
the game. giving it to the team thai
was ahead ct the end of five minutes
playing. During the five minutes one
could not hear cannon explosion fol
the Albany boosters were yelling
their boys on to victory. The fina
count of the game was, Albany -
Cordele /.
At the track meet this year the Cor
dele bunch was not so strong on &C
count Of some of the boys leaving
school and others getting above the
limited age. But still Cordele was
not completed shorne of all her glory
for she yet had some efficient men t.
nent was the hrrdling of Homer Bar
tee. via re- ,.2 Gao record fc-
the feat, and the jumping of Gladstone
Fleming, new most commonly known
rs Happy"
The nos; Interesting feature Of tn;
Use.
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
THE EUROPEAN WAR.

Germany is now losing ground daily
to the English forces. Some say that
Germany is weakening and will soon
beforced to quit Others say she is
starving, but up until now there has
been no battles fought on German
ground, and the last two years have
been spent in cultivating this vast
German land. Instead of Germany
starving it smore likely that she is
starving England, for the Germans
ars running a successful blockade of
the English coast.
With the United States aid and
eGrmany's weakened condition the
Allies have a good chance of backing
Germany into the corner and of win
ming the great struggle
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
WILL RUSSIA BE MADE A
DEMOCRACY?
Ely Max Boniske.

Eyer since the beginning OF history
the people of different nations have
been laboring against the Divine Right
Of Kings theory. Only a few months
ago the Divine Right ruler Gar Mich
olas of Russia was forced to abdicate
IN favor of the Duma, or Russian Par.
lament. Whether this country viii
become an anarchy or Republic IS
a question the people Of Russia alone
can decide. 1t seems as though the
minds of the Russian folk are not yet
ripe for the government change. and
in The lase few days there has been
bloody riots in the streets Of the
capital OF Russia.
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13

Gle in which history travels will be
broken, or we must believe that, for
a time the whole world will be
EuropeaniZed. Then will she hold
her power or loose it as the other
races have done carries US back to
the original question.
AS for Myself; | don't believe that
any one race is strong enough to en-
tirely overcome another and also
believe and hope that each nation
ana each race; having different Gus
toms, habits, beliefs, IDEALS and am
biticns will be content to settle
within their own boundaries and
leave peace and liberty on the face
Of the globe Glover Macarthur
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
WILL THE WORLD BECOME Ell.
POPEANIZED?
By Audrey DekIt

The question of whether the coun-
tries of Asia and CT the other various
continents of the world will become
Europeanized or not is a very imnor-
tant question in the world today. This
is a situation which is not to be de-
sired Although great many of the
elements of European civilization are
good, there are many which are not,
Judging from the former history of
the world, this does not seem proha-
bile as the older civilization Of civil
The Cordele dispatch. (Cordele, Ga.) 19??-1971, 1917-05-13
WILL TIE WORLD BE EUROPE
AIMED.
BY Robert Harrsi.

AS Greece had become great pow
ed and had predCminated the world,
50 it seems that the people OF Europe
will dominate the world. The Turkish
lands in Europe were large in extent
and at first it seemed that the Turkish
power was a rising power. All Chris
tendon was aroused and lately the
Turkish lands have nearly all been
retaken and if it had not been for
the jealousy of the two great nations.
England and Russia, the Turks would
have been excluded from Europe.
Again the Monaghan race is being
driven back to great extent The
great nations Of Europe have seized
the lands of the Chinese. He is the
Sick Man" of the east. as Turkey is
also called. It is possible to exclude
the Chinese from Asia and ally other
races by the European nations ia
pan will. however, be hard contest
ant for all SO small she can fight ia
nan has whipped the great nation OF
Russia, and also China. But ii the
nations join, they will be able to eX-
clude the japanese.
japan is called the yellow Men
ace" by the European nations. How
ever. some of the philosophers have
said that the world viii be at war be
tween the nations Of Christians and
MCngolians. Though it be hard
task, the Europeans will eventually
overcome the MOngolians and then
VIII EurOpeaDi2e the world.