Evening star., 1917-12-25

THE GRACEFUL CApE-LIKE JACKET.

I cape.
/ Journalists, buyers and camera folk
took instant recognition Of this new
fashion, and here and there women
were sufficiently interested and pleased
with 1t to incorporate the idea into
their own costumery.
A year ago this Jacket was revived.
| France was under the pressure of the
/ government to limit the use OF mate
, rials tina, had woolen threads In them,
and her efforts toward corporation
with the government produced new
silhouette and new type OF apparel
We of the reportoriai segment told
the American public Of this over and
over but, lavish of wool and not clear
ly lined up against the fuil skirt. the
ma GufacturerS and the dreSsinak akerS did
not adopt the Paris IDEA.
Nn,s Inpy ~, h;s e to.
The slim silhouette is the thing.
None must cavail at il. IL means patrl-
otism. ii il doesn't mean grace, tisere
is way of getting around the qGe5-
tion by putting in strokes of material
that give the impression OF fullness and
grace without breaking ones faith with
the government.
The slim skirt and the short jacket;
these are the two outstanding features
of the incoming January fashions. That
France will throw all her strength. into
this measure when she has her open
ings in February there is no doubt,
but, in the meantime, we must buy
and make new clothes. not only for ne
money in the country in circulation
through the channels that provide
breaA and butter to other women.
The short jacket is not always grace
81 q. 80 i'm OF line II It has the
ripping contour of a cape. especially
at the back it destroys any awkward
lines that the figure beneath may pos
sess, and it accentuates only the beauty
of line in a slim, curved figure. SO
there is no reason to avoid it. whether
you tip the scales at too little too
much. You don't have to eat and grow
thin in order to be able to wear such a
you were to follow the law laid down
by some of the French dressmakers this
season.
A Dominant Feature.
The short jacket, with it's ripping
cape back, is only a part of a strong,
influential movement toward the loose
background dropped behind woman's
figure. 1t is shown throughout the
gar. of clothes this MONTH The
woman who looks upon it wisely and
well and realizes why 1t is done and
what defects 1t covers. both in the gown
and in the figure. will prove herself
woman of sense and sensitiveness to
incoming features of fashion.
The jacket that ripples all around
the figure is as cold as an unheated
stone house. but the jacket that rip
pies little In the back and has tight
Portable.
And mind you. the new gowns are
not going to leave 1t at that. They
have shoulder and chest protectors be-
meath. In one of these short jackets,
as shown in the sketch, there is a
tight-ftting vest made on the order of
q mans waistcoat. but sleeveless.
which Is nothing more than a part and
parcel of the skirt. and 1t hugs the
figure tightly and keeps out the chill
winds that might fnd their way be-
meath the ripping back of the jacket.
The whole suit is made Of ve1veteen.
in q deep beige color which Is easy for
the dyers to produce and which will
therefore be very much used. The
skirt is slightly draped upward toward
the back. IN order to take away the
ugliness that might arise from too
scanty use Of material. 1t. like the
jacket. has bits of primitive embroid-
cry done in old pink and blue. deep
yellow and black. The postillion col
lar. the hem at the back of the jacket.
The GUMS and the canteen nun are of
beaver.