The broad ax., 1917-12-29

Again the apron. The blouse 10 Of
gray chiffon, the apron Of silver lace.
Black satin skirt and sash Of the
chiffon. Hat Of gray jersey faced
with black satin and embroidered In
black and silver.
the fashions and which expresses It.
self In long, oblique lines. viii soon
take the place Of the straight, Indian
and Alexandrian silhouette.
The dressmakers, who are trying to
achieve something new In evening
gowns. In order to keep women inter
ested In this form Of apparel, have
used this oblique movement to accom-
plish something quite out Of the COM
,monplace.
! On q black velvet frock, this new
silhouette was given by using q broad
piece Of cloth Of Jet studded with rows
Of rhinestones, which wrapped the up
per part Of the figure In long lines that
dropped from shoulder to hips. and
crossing In front to tie in back, ended
In q narrow train which gave dignity
to slim skirt.
It Is a long jump from an evening
gown Of velvet and cloth Of Jet to q
sweater, but among the artistic set,
this oblique movement has been work
ed out In q knitted scarf which is q
substitute for q sweater. II Is worn
as the Canadian soldiers wear Il, Cross
Ing over the front and back In oblique
lines, with the long ends tucked
through the part that forms the belt In
front and dropping down with their
fringe ten inches below the waist.
The Importance Of sashes.
Whenever the girdling Of the hips
becomes airst fashion, sashes leap up
on q high pinnacle and proclaim their
presence with trumpeting authority.
Throughout the ages, sashes come
and 60, much to the amusement and
interest Of women, especially those
women who see In accessories the most
diyerting part Of fashionable apparel.
Some minds work along the line Of
adtuncts In clothes, rather than funda-
mentals. In every little group Of wom-
en- there 10 one, or probably more, who
WIN burn the midnight oil to create
or attach new and fashionable aces
sories to an old gown. In the addition
Of sash. the placement Of q rose. the
application Of 3 bit Of Jet. new cuffs or
q gold cord, they fnd their chief pleas
ure IN clothes.
These women WIN have their hearts
delight this season, for the fundamen-
tails are few and the accessories many.
Camouhage "a the word that has
spread over the planet. and Il Is q
word that no longer refers 10 war. but
q forever Incorporated In the Language
Of people. A new sash Is camou-
daee ON an old gown, and as such II
plays an important part IN the devel-
opment Of this seasons clothes.
These sashes have the bias move
ment: fhey girdle the hips In oblique
lines, they tie ut the side, they form
an apology for q hustle In the back;
they are now In front. In the primitive
fashion, they are fringed, embroidered,
stenciled or made Of Batfk.
10ey are me connecting INK D.
tween q blouse Of one lind and shirt
Of another, and they soften and make
harmonious the Joining Of these two
opposing garmentsL
Sd4fimes they have bins and
aprons attached 20 the front and then
they become sashes de luxe. Usually,
these peasant accessories ere made az
old silver lace. which has come into
high fAshior fhis winter. In keeping
with the fAef that necessities are difi-
chit 10 obtain, but luxuries eszy. You
may not be able 30 buy q wooden un-
derEarment. but you can wesr q silver
lace apronL
This apron. with IN blb. collar ana
sssh that ties N the bach. n bulit Into
. complete accessory. and sold 30 20
over any soHn which needs % BE- en-
Ilse1ed and camounaeed
tcspyzisht N, n NJ Mcclure rsxDa-