davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
At Last We Have Durable Tulle

The cables from Paris insist that tule WI
be used as plen,ifuly as it has been in me NJ
cent past.
This modern weave of tulle is sturdy enoue'
to hold up a mass Of metal embroidery wltn'''
dssolving under the weight. Somene''
through IA secret process of the weaves, II D.
not lost its appearance of fragility in galnH
stability.
The French gowns are not chary OF meA'
embroideries this season, and il was necesss'
for the new tulles to either stand them or y
out Of the fashion. SO they accompllshed ~
one and did not have TO face the other.
This one-piece which is shown in the SSeHs
is Of dark blue crepe satin with a loose nv
waist line that may give pause to many ANY,
can dressmakers. IL is one of the minor g
dences that France still considers the Diree'0''
and the First Empire worthy of revival
This frock has slight drapery at the ny
and square bodice made of blue tulie "
broiered in blue chenille and gold thread =.
Observe the neck line; it is to be quite y.
fashion. II is high at the back IN the y"
Jaranese fashion and slightly low ~ Nv,
The sleeves arc made in two parts ana n.
crepe satin goes over the embroidered =.
bodice in the fashion of wide suspenders' "a
tight underskrt is of embroidered tuie IN
the slender widths Of crepe de chine 'hA'
over it are short enough to give the appears"
Of double skirt
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02

"HERE is no use preaching to women to
be morbid about clothes, and there is
no use telling these women of awak-
ened intelligence that they must wear old and
shabby things, because they are beginning to
understand that this is not the way to make
nation prosperous. Ten years ago that
slogan might have appealed to women; to-day
it is brushed aside as a silly argument
The Standardization of clothes is another bit
Of childish talk, verbal pap, as it were, given to
children who have grown to be thinking beings
If ten thousand women decided upon a coat
and skirt for everyday wear this winter as
uniform, the price of that suit would be raised
far beyond the present price of any costume
So there's no economy in that.
In such a suit ten women will look well and
one thousand will look their worst. So that's
an argument that might work as leaven
against the other.
No one will deny that there should be a new
outlook in clothes. The dressmakers fOresaw
this situation, and they have prepared for it.
France had glimmering of it, but she was not
quite aware of the strength Of the movement
She still believes that America is the land of
birds of paradise. She only thinks Of us in
terms of Aladdin-ike wealth and wearing the
clothes of old Bagdad.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
Velour and Velvet Will Be Popular

Velour has been insisted upon as the main
material for street wear, and there is more
black and white satin advocated than the eX-
pert foresaw
Black panne velvet gowns without any trim
ming whatever. but touch of white crepe at
the neck. are offered as exclusive things for the
afternoon.
The woman who goes TO work every day IN
some field of utility may abandon the coat suit
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
New Ideas and New Values

However, when the new clothes arrive from
Paris and the women of this country digest
them they will be pat through the sieve of
public opinion, and what comes out will be
trustworthy.
The woman who earns money is apt to spend
it more foolishly for clothes than the other
kind of woman, which is truth that seems to
escape the majority of those who preach.
This truth has struck home among the Eng
liSh and French, who say that there has never
been such extravagant purchasing of clothes
in those countries by the middle class women
who have gone to work for the first time. The
women in the munitions plants simply pour
out their wages on finery in the London shops,
and the women of the bourgeosie in France
who are making money in munitions are going
TO the great dressmaking houses in Paris for
the first time in their lives and paying prices
that heretofore were paid only by the South
American millionaireS.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
Economy in Apparent Extravaganza

Buy as many things possible in silk,
crepe de chine and Georgette crepe, in order
to save cotton and linen for government uses
Be exceedingly careful in your choice of shoes,
for leather is scarce and the price is getting
beyond the average purse. Instead of wearing
thin vevets, fanciful weaves that will not eX-
tend through the fashions for any length of
time, have the street clothes made of sturdy
homespun, the new velour and heavy English
sutings.
Don't buy costumes in brilliant colors, be.
cause if there is need for strict economy next
better than gay one.
France has made violent effort for three
weeks to provide new costumery for America,
and she has succeeded. The cables report that
a box full of tricks has been developed.
The main point is the elimination of waste
material in all garments. Therefore, the
silhouette must be as slim as though it had
lead pencil as its model
There is strong effort made to bring into
fashion the half low evening gowns, such as the
European women have been wearing for three
years This is not universally becoming to
the Anglo-SaXon, and it is probable that the
American evening gowns, with their old and
deep decolletage. may be still adopted by many.
No matter what slight fulnesS there may ne
at the hip line in certain gowns there is no
division Of opinion concerning the narrowness
of the skirt
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
A NEW HAT FOR AUTUMN

Loose crown made Of dove gray tsfeta ribbon
mounted on a headband Of kings
blue velvet
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02

Don't wear old and shabby clothes under
the false impression that in so doing one re-
leases man power for the war. It's women
who make most of these clothes, and they need
the salaries.
Don't pay foolish price to any dressmaker
for any kind of gown merely because it has
great label in it. Use the enlightened business
mind to decide what the value of gown is be-
fore buying it.
Remember that there are thousands of seam
stresses in this country who are eager to make
a weeks wages and who have been badly re-
duced in income through the cheap reacy-to.
wear clothes sold by the shops. Pay these
women to keep your clothes in good order and
to make new clothes whenever possible, IN
order that you may be released from that kind
of work to give your time to the nation.
Don't indulge recklessly in dozens Of wash
blouses. Laundry bills include the price of
starch, and to demand starch in hundreds Of
garments is not good conservation.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02

lower part is embroidered in pale blue and roe
Among all these French gowns that are PR
pared for American inspection the color
gray. which has run through the French fas
ions since the war began, is used in laws
manner.
A gown which Doeuilet shows is OF da'i
blue crepe satin and has an underbodlce an
wide skirt panel of gray chiffon embroidered
American blue.
The frock is very simple in outline, cling9
to the figure in a primitive manner, fr-
shoulder to shoetop. There is no actual was
line, and the gown appears as though it wen
merely draped on the figure to cover it, bu! 81
to outline it.
From bird's-eye view of the new fashEs
which is all one can get this early in the gar'
there is to be no diminution in the use Of w
loose. flexible crown.
The sketch shows an elaboration OF "
French marine cap, which is another type Z
informal hat that the milliners will expo'
with strength II is of dove gray taffeta ~
bon gathered to headband of kings blue 70
vet. That's all there is to it. It's the slmps
hat in the medley of millinery.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
What Well Dressed Women Will Wear BY ANNE RTIEN40OSE
Relation of Womens War Work to Clothes

condition making
clothes before equaed those
buy wisely ana
aGnates All slim silhouette the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-02
The Business Woman's Clothes

American millionaires.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Oregon Schoolboy
Soldiers l,121

Oregon schools have responded no+
bly, to the call to arms
Statistics gathered by ]. A. Church-
i'll, state superintendent Of public in-
struction, show that up to the time
of the closing Of schools total OF
1,121 students have enlisted either
in the National Guard, the regular
army or the navy out of the high
schools, colleges and universities Of
the state.
OF this number 736 we're from tho
high schools and 9S5 from the uni-
versities ana colleges. OF the 736
going from the high schools 4SS werd
below the senior grade, and Of tho
3S5 going from the universities and
colleges 273 were below the senior
grade.
The reports were received from
22O high schools of the state and OF
that number "a reported no enlist-
ments
A glance through the reports indi-
Gates the preponderance of enlist-
ments were from rural communities,
rather than from industrial centersj
indicating that the volunteer enlist
ments have drawn most heavily on
the young men who could be used for
farm work during the coming season.
"The public schools have been put
to the test and are found not want
ing" stated Superintendent Churchill
in commenting upon the reports re-
ceived.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Tells Of War
Relief Work

Mrs. Seymour Van Cleave, recently
returned from London, where she has
been engaged in relief work, spoke
at the Presbyterian church Monday
evening. H. L. Whited presided over
the meeting and Mrs. Elmore sang
two patriotic selections.
When the war broke out Mrs. Van
Cleave and her daughter were in Lon
don, They threw themselves into re-
lief work and also did much to assist
Americans to get out of Europe and
back to America. Later they did hos
pital work and started knitting fac
tory in their London home. This has
grown into three large factories CIV
ing employment to many women and
supplying socks for the men at the
front. Her daughter is still in charge
of the work. Mrs. Van Cleave came
back to America and has told many
audiences of the war as she saw 1t.
She is not an orator, but motherly
woman who speaks straight from the
heart. She has spent the winter in
Honolulu and will remain with her
son in New York until ocean travel is
safe for her to rejoin her daughter.
Mrs. Seymour Van Cleave and her
sister-in-law, Mrs. Hall, were guests
the past week at the home Of Mrs.
Emily I. Bingham on Laurel street,
while en- route from Honolulu to the
east. The three ladies were friends
in Minneapolis some years ago. Mrs
Van Cleave now lives in New York
city and Mrs. Hall in Honolulu.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
FRUIT and FARM


this maggot by the application of a
sweetened poison bait for the adult
fly. The following formula is rec
commended: Sodium arsenite 1
ounce, syrup / quart, water 3 gallons.
These materials should be mixed and
applied as fine, misty spray Of the
consistency Of dew allowing only a
few droplets to fall on each of the
upper leaves of the bushes. A pint
of spray should cover several bushes,
as only few drops are necessary on
any one bush. The adult flies will
lap up this poison and be killed be-
fore depositing eggs. Clear, settled
weather is necessary for the success
full use of this poisoned bait.-A. l..
Love, Entomology Department at o.
A. G.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Spotted Beetle Injuries Beans.

SpOtteu Deetle injuries Beans.
Young bean plants just beginning
to grow well are being attacked by a
small, spotted beetle. This beetle Is
about the size and general appear
ance of lady bird beetle, greenish-
yellow in color, with twelve black
spots on the wing covers. They usu-
ally appear IN considerable numbers
and feed voraciously on the foliage,
soon ragging the plant so thoroughly
as to devitalize or even kill it. In
addition to beams, practically all gar
den and truck crops are subject to
injury by this beetle, particularly
squash, cucumbers, corn and egg
plant.
The usual recommendation of ap-
plying some poison to the foliage as
practiced for most leaf-chewing in
sect pests will not serve in the case
of this beetle unless supplemented by
what is known as the trap-crop sys-
TEN. A spray Of dust applied to the
plant acts as more or less Of a repel-
lent and 1t Is somewhat difficult to
ge the beetle to feed on treated foli-
age. Therefore in order to avoid
their going down below ground and
eating off the stems of the plants, 1t
is advisable to leave few plants here
and there, known as trap crop for
the beetles to feed upon, and treat
the rest of the field. The most prac-
tical method is, in cases where beans
are to constitute the main crop, to
plant here and there through the
bean field few hills of squash. The
beans should then be busted with
powder consisting of sulphur S5
parts, powdered arsenate Of lead Is
parts, and the squash vines should be
left untreated. The beetles will then
collect on the untreated plants and
may be killed by mechanical means
here. Where no other crop Is avail
able, as a trap few hills of beans
here and there through the field
should be sacrificed to tne cause and
the others treated Generally speak
ing, a dust application is preferable
to liquid spray, although the liquid
arsenate Of lead spray is also very eff
fective in preventing injury by the
beetles where a trap crop is present.
"A. L, Lovett, Entomology Dept, 0.
A c.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
A Sweet Poison for Currant and
GOoseberry MaggOt.

The fruit of currants and gooseber-
ries is frequently found infested with
small white maggot This is the
larvae Of a delicate little fly which
deposits eggs under the skin Of the
developing fruit. These flies are
present in the field when the average
berry is about the size of BIB shot.
They spend a period Of several days
in the field before beginning egg de-
position. Should the weather remain
settled without the frequent showers
of the past, 1t will be possible to al
most entirely prevent the injury by
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Drive Started TO
Round Up Slackers

Portland, June 14,-The period of
grace for men of military age who
failed for any reason to register on
War Census day is ended.
From now on every Stacker is to
be hunted down without mercy
There will be no more leniency.
Governor Withycombe has receiv-
ed official instructions from the pro-
vost marshal general, at Washington,
d. c., that the most vigorous enforce
ment of the penal clause of the law
will be required against all who have
not registered.
1t is announced that the quota of
men to be drafted into the military
service from each state will be based
on previous census estimates, not on
the actual registration figures, which
in Oregon were slightly lower than
the estimate Inasmuch as the men
to be called are chosen by lot, the
failure to register of any man who
should have done so increases the
chances against every other man who
did his duty and registered.
For this reason, particularly, and
also as a patriotic duty, every one
of the 62,S40 men who registered
in Oregon is asked to help in the
drive to round up the shirkers.
Already the sheriffs, police officers
and precinct registrars have been in
structed by the adjutant general to
report all suspicious cases. But now
through the press, and in response
to official orders from Washington,
all men who have registered are ask
ed to aid in this anti-slacker cam
paign.
OF course, there may be few who
can present legitimate excuses for
not having registered. But they will
have to present them in court. The
time for leniency is passed, and i'm
prisonment faces those who tried to
evade their duty to their country.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Prot. Ruch to Teach
At University

University of Oregon, Eugene -
Two new instructors in education
were elected by the board Of regents
of the university at the June meet
ing, G. M. Ruch Of Ashland, an Ore
gon graduate in the class of 1914,
will succeed r. w. Broecker, who has
returned to Michigan and expects to
teach in the middle west next year.
The other instructor is Miss Callie
Beck of McMinnville.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
BY EDWIN R. A. sELleMAN,

McVickar Professor Of Political Econ
omy, Columbia University.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
Crater Lake Road
Work to Continue

Crater Lake park improvements
will continue this season. United
States engineers of the first rivers
and harbors district at Portland re-
ceived word from Washington, D. c.,
Saturday that included in the civil
sundry bill, approved June IL, is an
item of $4,000 for carrying on the
work in the park. 1t will be used
for road grading and it is expected to
be ample for completing the most of
that kind of work.
nkoun 4.L -.a.--A- .k. TtSt.us
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21
HOW SHALL We
PAY FOR THE WAR?
A ACOnstructlVe Criticism on the
House Revenue Bill.
LOANS BETTER THAN TAXES

Five Reasons Why Excessive Taxes at
the Outset of War Are Disadvantage.
ous-Great Britain Example Worthy
Of Emulation-How the Taxes Should
Be Apportioned.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21

O.-W. r & N company's crop re"
port for the Northwest shows excel-
lent prospects.
Ashland tidings. [volume] (Ashland, Or.) 1876-1919, 1917-06-21

Lents- Miller -Mowrey mill to be-
gin operations soon.
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06
Notice to Contractors

Bids will be received for the fur
nishing of a school house in School
District No. 1876, Stearns County,
Minnesota, and installing a heating
plant, said plant to be furnished by
the District. The plans and specifi-
cations may be seen at the First Ma
tional Bank, Sauk Centre, Minnesota,
and the First State Bank, Westport,
Minnesota. Bids must be mailed to j.
Leslie Gray, Clerk of School District
No. 1876, R. D. Sauk Centre, Mime
sofa, plainly marked "Bids for the
School House."
The bids will be opened at the Of
flee of ]. Leslie Gray, Clerk of School
District No. 136, on Monday, Sept.
10, 1917, at p. m. and must be ac-
companied by a certified check pay
able to the school board of School
District No. 136, Stearns County, to
the amount of per cent of the re-
spective bids.
The right to reject any and all bids
is reserved, 1874 ..
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06
NOTICE TO TEACHERS

The Institute for Todd County
teachers will be held at the High
School in Long Prairie the week be-
ginning Monday, September 10th. All
rural teachers are required by law to
attend.
The instructors will be Miss Char
lotte Knutson, of the St. Cloud Nor
NAL, Miss Ruth Holmes of the Glen
wood High School, and Miss Tena An
derson of the Normal Department of
the Long Prairie High School.
A lecture will be given at the Com
munity Hall Wednesday evening, Sep
tember 12, by the Rev. Henry Holmes
of Big Lake. Mr.. Holmes is mem
Der of the state legislature, and is au-
thor of the Teachers Pension and Re-
tirement law. He was for ten years
pastor of the Lowry Hill Congrega-
tional church of Minneapolis, and is
one of the most able speakers anC
lecturers in the state. ...
14-1t E. A. Williams,
County Superintendent
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06

gion of admirers With a woman star
it will be interesting to note that a
woman wrote and directed the pro-
duction. The play is social labor
problem of great force and impelling
and purposeful motive.
Monday-"Pride and the Devil fea
turing Alma Harlow. If titles mean
anything, this one gives the chance
observer plenty of food for thought
That pride and the devil go hand-in
hand is generally conceded, but there
are so many sources from which this
little sin might spring that one could
not get much idea of the picture with
out seeing it.
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06
Congregational Church

"No man can afford to do without
the Church. The Church is the great
est institution in the world"
Services next Sunday are as fol
lows: Morning Service at 1000. Sub
ject: "The Church I Believe In." Eve.
ming Service at 7:30.
Visitors and strangers heartily wei
coined. Pastor, Rev. c. S. Sparkes.
Zion Lutheran Church
Sunday School at 9:45.
German Services at 1890.
Corrected Thursday morning, Sept. 6
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06
AUTOMOBILE ACCT.
Dents NUMEROUS
CONTINUED from first page)
County Fair and the other to Lol
Prairie

County Fair and the other to Long
Prairie.
A Ford driven by Peter Martinson
and occupied by his family overturned
while rounding a corner near Long
Prairie last week Sunday. They were
on their way to church in Clarissa and
evidently Mr.. Martinson was in haste.
At all events, the machine failed to
make the corner in proper style and
the car struck rock pile with terrific
force and turned on it's side. Several
Of the occupants were thrown some
distance. Mr.. Martinson sustained a
badly sprained wrist, one sons left
shoulder blade was fractured, anoth-
er's right arm was broken and the ba-
by suffered a fractured skull. Her
condition is still serious, but not dan
gerous. The car was badly wrecked.
A combination automobile theft
and accident marked the close of the
Stearns county fair, Saturday night.
Harry Clemens, the proprietor of the
former H. w. Bishop store at West
port, brought down party to the
dance at the city hall that evening in
his Chevrolet. The car was left out.
side. When the time came to return
to Westport the car could not be
found. Thinking someone had taken
it for a joke and left it further down
the street, Mr.. Clemens did not be-
come alarmed. Investigation did not
bring the car to light and it was con-
cluded that someone had stolen it. The
party returned to Westport in another
car. Sunday morning the machine
was found about three miles from
Sauk Centre on the Osakis road, badly
smashed up. Later in the day it was
taken to the Palmer House garage.
No clue has yet been found which
would lead to the capture of the thiev-
es. However, the police are on the
lookout and it will be but a question
of time before everything it cleared
up. The officers are working on the
hypothesis that two men, drunk, took
the car; that they started home to-
wards Osakis and on the long turn
about three miles out, lost control of
the car and ran into the ditch and
back into the fence; that the windshield
cut them badly, which accounts for
the quantity of blood on the machine.
Further than this no one knows, but
it is safe to say that they will find
out. The jolt sobered the men enough
for them to make a good getaway
taking with them the robes, a coat OF
two and the extra tire. The automo-
bile seems to be too badly wrecked to
repair, but modern surgery extends
even to cars. The Chevrolet was new
last spring. .
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06

WANTED---To rent. good farm of
80 acres and up, near Sauk Centre; in
Consolidated school district il posi-
BILE; German settlement; prefer farm
with stock and machinery if possible.
Also want another farm under about
the same conditions; hign grade refer
ences can be furnished in either case.
We mean business; let us hear at once.
Address August Tesh, Alexandria,
Mimi. t2-l4,pd
The Sauk Centre herald., 1917-09-06
CAUGHREN THEATRE NOTES

Thursday-The Flame of Youth
has a lure all it's own; for the older
people, who have passed their youth
and are eager to retrospect; and to
the young who are now in the midst OF
their joyous youth. Jack Merhall and
Donna Drew have the lead parts in
this Butterfly picture.
Friday-What more needs to be said
than that the picture is ''The Ameri
cano" as interpreted by Douglas Fair,
banks.
Sunday-"Fire of Rebellion" will be
the attraction on Sunday when Dor.
othy Phillips will return to her le