Evening journal., 1917-10-12

j pray YOU do not have a nc,
Dame Fashion will not stand for It.
For anything that ilts, my dear,
VIII simply not be done this year.
NEW YORK. Oct. i2-The bi-annual
Fashion shows are now upon us and
languld. langulshing models are undu-
lating a million dollars worth Of furs
and metallic embroidery and brocades
all over the smartest shops.
All the worth while gowns are there
they Doucet everyone will wear. our
old friend poiret has a pair, Of stun
ming ones with Chinese air, and Lam
vim, Callot, Premet, too, and Paquln
also show a few.
Since the Chinese tendency is so
pronounced In most all Of the Import
ed models, the settings for the display
of the gowns Is all Chinked and lac
0ucrcd and gilded and Chinese gold
and rugged up. The models glide
around among the carved ivory and
lockwood and Chinese porcelain as
much at home as n they had never
been outside the Great Wall Of China
in their lives.
on course a few Of the models are
allowed to sit on the Russian stoppes
and look like OLGA OF the Nolga I'M tur
trimmed peasant blouses smothered In
fur and hectic worsied embroidery
but IN fact. the similarity between the
lines Of the loose Russian blouse ana
the loose Chinese coat the brilliant
cmbroidierles and those OF Russia, and
lo lavish use OF fur on both make u
rather puzzllng unless YOU are con.
nsseur on Chinese and Russian art
at least of Russian and Chinese tea
iO tell one from the other.
After taking an obilquo look and
getting Chinese slant on those DIFF
fercnt showings Of imported models so
rich I'm materials, reputation and
prico. my advice 10 the woman who
cherlshes the wild ambition of leading
the mode hack home IS 10 wait until
She gets there. Then let her hire ihc
Village seamstrcss and have that per
sonage no an her gowns ON some one
with a figure the exact anlithcsis OF
ner own. When she dons them every
body viii be willing 10 swear she is
wearing a premet on Doucct model Of
tho very latest.
For the main characteristic Of ell
the new models is their nOn-ilttlng
properties and the impression that they
are built 20 go on a totally different
figure from the one they adorn. Necks
are hacked out straight across from
shoulder TO shoulder, or In loose 0vals
that pull hlthcr and yon, sleeves are
loose and flowing and wide, and the
waists. II one may call them such, are
guaranteed not TO touch the human
form at any given point or curve from
shoulder TO hip. Some Of the skirts are
caught mn AZ uncXpected and awkward
angles and indicate that II they hang
ovcnly for any space around the hem
they are miserable failure indeed.
on the evening models. where drap-
cries are the piece de resistance as
twere. the way the gorgeous lengths
OF metallic and velvet or silken bro
cades are draped on the foundations OF
lace or gold. and silver gauze, would
cause the window dresser OF the white
front Dry Goods Emporium back hom
70 hide his head In shame.
They give the non-elect the disturb
ing Impression that the designer ha
stood on the near side Of the atelle
and thrown the drap0 across the room
10 the lace swathed form on the Othe
side, and then hied himself franlicall,
to pin the wanted stun ere IL hap
pened 10 light
The whole idea OF the season sar
torlally. seems TO be striving after
the skctchy impressionistic effect, ol
as photographers say, one Of those ar.
tistlc Blurred portraits that make every
one mystifying because they are SO
minus Of detail-we must have a fuzzy
outline.
No doubt the super-abundance Of