Mexico weekly ledger. (Mexico, Mo.) 1855-1956, 1917-12-13
PARTY DRESSES TABOO
IN ENGLISH TOILETS
Reciprocal News Service
By Margaret Walter

LONDON, Dec. 8. - With the be-
ginning of the fourth winter Of war,
smart London shops have opened up
with something Of the old fashioned
assemblage. The big gray salon at
Lucile's is again sprinkled with beau
tiful titled women chatting about
clothes with the designers and ar
tistes who are still as lovely to look
at as they are clever of brain and fin
gers. But there is a difference now.
The conferences which used to extend
to hours and sometimes absorb the
better part of a brief London winter
day, are now hurried and there is
distinct aid of pre-occupation which
now and then breaks down altogether
and war talk is indulged in by every
body.
Everybody knows what men have
distinguished themselves - who have
returned wounded or who will never
return. And as all classes contribute
heroes, patrons and shop managers
and saleswomen exchange eongrat-
ulations or sympathize with one an
other in spirit of friendliness which
before the war would have seemed
Incredible.
One dressmaker adapting himself
to the new conditions in which his pat
rons find themselves is making suits
of thick hairy cloths which, he told me,
were worn from the discards of wool
used for heavier materials and which
in other times would have gone by the
technical name "shoddy."
Another thing is that women occu-
pied wholly with nursing or other ac-
tivities in this country or in France
will not spend time for elaborate dress
making. Whole outfits are ordered by
telegraph and never tried on at all.
Of course this precludes anything like
fitting or modelling and accounts for
the continued vogue Of the loosely
hung frock, the flowing lines Of
outside wraps. Skirts remain sensi-
bly, short and shoes and stockings are
obviously adapted for walking.
Velvet and brocade are being used
wherever possible to take the place of
cloths, for these are very scarce.
Paris dressmakers are restricted to
four yards to suit.
In Paris furs are sparingly used in
comparison with last winter, but /
have seen very beautiful, if somewhat
shabby, ones here already.
Most of the new coats are fur
trimmed rather than all of peltry.
There is much less embroidery used
than last season, though some of the
dressmakers are making what they
call tackled flounces Of velvet or full
lined with rich embroidery which
shows only between the tacks.
The color Of the season is green with
Venetian red close second, but the
greater number of smart women in
the restaurants and tea shops are
dressed in dark with touches Of vivid
color used as lining or in revers.
House dresses seem to be the fav-
orite extravaganza of women who
work hard all day and these in every
| imaginable shade and material fill
the show rooms of the great fashion
salons in Hanover Square. Most of
these gowns have little rolls of some
soft fur introduced about the low-cut
necks and flowing sleeves. The effort
to drag skirts down into trains and
swirling masses around the ankles
goes on with but moderate success.
Because of the universal chilliness
indoors this winter, most house dress
es are fitted with inner lining Of the
softest possible wool, SO light and
transparent that they look like lace
but are indiscribably luxurious.
And beneath these dresses the linge-
rie is of the most delicate and beau
tiful material. This is the one item
of clothes which seems to have felt no
effect of war, though it is said in the
shops that when the present supply Of
fine crepes and satins is exhausted,
there will be no renewal. So much silk
is being used in munitions that no
looms are now available for this fine
silk weaving. However that may be,
prices remain just as they were be-
fore the war, rather lower than in
America and we who are recently
come from the other side are aston
ished to find beautiful crepe de chine
or Georgette blouses elaborately made
and hemstitched by hand, and often
times embroidered, being sold in the
very best shops for from five to seven
dollars.