The Washington herald., 1917-03-16
SHARP DISTINCTION IN
MEMS CONSERVATIVE
And NOVELTY SUITS

OF the styles IN vogue for the spring
season In mems suits and overcoats there
Is no easy graduation from conservative
to novelty styles. The two fashion
thoughts are sharply defined ana no COM
promise. 10 offered. The garments thus
TAR observed are either sedateiy conserva-
tive or spiritedly unique. No half way
measures have been provided for. In
the class defined as novelty styles are
included various conceptions In fanciful
designing. These include the pinch back
and belted styles with minor details of
attractiveness that are hagrantly indica-
tive Of trend toward distinctive orna-
mentation. These garments show pinch
back effects In shirred treatments, IN
yerted plait ARRANGEMENTS, box plaits,
yoke backs, mock belts. half belts, de-
taohable and belt all around effects. These
define the novelty styles in a general way,
hut the variations IN minor details are
carried to a point that in only bounded
by the inventive resources of the design
ers. For instance. there IL q riotous en-
ployment of button treatment. The belt
all around coats usually have button dec
oratfons at the front and some Of the
more extreme models substitute buckles
for buttons In the attaching ARRANGEMENT.
Then, also, on the half belts, attached
belts and two-piece belts. buttons are en-
piOyCn. 4hC bcllS In6I arc 0eIaCQ-
able have the buttons on both side seams
and other belts are stitched on at the
sides and brought together at the center
OF the back with a button Most Of the
mock belts have no ornamentatfon and
are merely stitched on at the sides. A
great many of this seasons pinch back
models have no belt treatment at all and
these are classified above as to the nature
of back details, whether shirred effects,
yoke effects or plait effects
The dominating notes in the conserva-
tive styles are of English characteristics.
Natural shoulders, soft roll lapels and
high wasted lines. The distins nsuishins
attractions in these styles viii be noted
rather Is grace Of modelling than in
any high lights OF detailed originality.
Most Of these models have patch pockets
and they are shown in one, two, three
and four button effects
Quite q few double breasted styles are
shown for early spring wear, some with
plain backs and most with belt or novelty
backs Many Of these belted effects
employ the tunnel belt treatment.
The overcoats shown for spring adhere
very closely to the style details prominent
in the suits with special reference to
back treatment. Aside from these the
raglan and Chesterfield shapes are fea-
spring. compromise Is made to the men
who eschew extreme styling, as many
of the most exclusive dressers do, es-
pecially In a season where the majority
run toward emphatic effects. The sedate
dressers seem to delight in intensifying
their dignity when the trend Is pro-
nounced in startling effects.
There are very slight changes noted
In vests or trousers; the latter are q
trihe wider than heretofore. Vests are
mostly collarless and button high.
In patterns two-tone stripes have the
call. and next to these hecked mixtures
and small checks. Wide stripes are
shown to some degree, but plaid effects
are not strong enough to demand any
special mention in a resume Of the
popular patterning.
In textures, fannels seem strongest.
and next to these tweeds. homespun and
Scotchy weaves. Worsteds are not
shown to apy great extent excepting in
the higher priced garments. This Is be-
cause OF the scarcity Of wool and the
higher price of fabrics. A worsted tex
ture to be impressive and serviceable
must be of extra good quality and close