Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1917-12-27
me 'front.' edge 0f6 cape and 66nd6Sd
b. the arm with q bracelet of-tulle q

Jewels.
Another sleeve is merely q brassard
and, of course, 1t is on an evening
gown. There are sleeves taken from
the church, from comic opera, from
the Round Table, from Wagnerian leg.
ends, from the days of Dante and, one
might almost add, from the Sultan of
Sulu. There are sleeves that are moth
ing but arm bands above and below
the elbow, to which are caught swing.
Ing folds Of colored tulle.
Possibly the n garment which the
sleeve-mad designers have left I'M
touched in their wild orgy of design
ing is the street coat which Is part of
a conventional tailored suit. All sorts
of liberties are taken with sleeves in
top coats, because this garment has
reached sc high on the ladder of fash
ion that it gets q whack of originality
from every designer who wants to
play with the garment in either a COM
mercial o. artistic way.
The short street coat, however, re-
mains conventional. So little has been
done with this garEiant in the line
Of originality that we begin to believe
that the French influence dominates
even in this line Of American costum-
cry. Paris, as you remember, insisted
that she could do little with the coat
suit because her tailors were welding
hand grenades instead Of scissors.
Variety in Arnholes.
1t is not possible to deal with
sleeves, in detail or in mass, without
taking the armhole into serious con-
sideration. The tailors and dressmak-
ers talk in an interesting manner
about this alleged minor part of the
costume. It is a pity, one might say
In passing, that there are any cutters
and filters who treat it as a minor
consideration, for the average woman
knows that the skill or awkwardness
in cutting an armhole makes or mars
the fit Of the frock and her individual
comfort.
There are few people who car re-
strain their tempers when the subject
OF armholes is mentioned, because the
extraordinary deficiency Of talent in
this particular line of dressmaking
reaches out into the daily lives of thou.
sands. Let us hope that the cutters
of this winter will have learned more
than they knew last winter, if they
are going to attempt a dozen instead.
Of two varieties.
There is the tight Directoire arm
hole that hugs the skin so that the
fronts Of the coat or bodice must be
perfectly adjusted in order that they
will not rise in waves about the neck.
There is the long, loose Chinese arm
hole which demands a certain lack of
contour in the bodice or jacket.
There is the pear-shaped armhole
which extends to the waistline and
into which an elbow-length or three
quarter sleeve is usually placed. And,
topping the list of comfortable arm
holes, is the one that belongs to the
lining and not to the bodice.
New Type Saves Temper.
If you have had trouble with the
fit Of your Jackets and blouses because
Of ill-cut armholes, remember that
this last type saves temper and tears.
When the sleeve is put into the arm
hole of the lining and the outer ma
Eerial is allowed to drop over it, NOV
ing with security and freedom accord
Ing to the shifting of the shoulders,
then you get the best armhole that the
American tailors can achieve.
This is the kind that is now in high
fashion. It is run well over the top
of the arm and up on the lining, in
order that there may be no revealing
Of the inside material when the outer
armhole swings to and fro. Some
|dressmakers use a band of embroidery
or soutaching or ornamented cloth of
some kind over the lining from the
rs