South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1917-04-08

appearance. that the practical needs
OF the hour influence the dress de
signers and also the decisions OF
those houses choosing models for an
exclusive clientele.
An elaborate gown IS hardly 70 be
seen. but the art and skill which
gives an effect OF grace. with such
an apparent absence Of studied ef-
feet, Is greater than ever. The coat
frock. and one something between
this and a tea-frock, still claim the
largest share Of attention, and some
good examples Of each were seen re-
Gently in one OF the leading London
salons one or two in pale putty
color and the new cinderash gray
were particularly attractive.
Among the latter, a coat-frock
model gave. at first sight. the effect
OF simply a melange OF long swing
ing lines. skillfully combined with
clinging foundation seen through
the movement OF folds above In
one design. this cOntrivance, giving
grace 20 an otherwise severely sim
pie frock. was achieved by means Of
picked up tucks in the material.
These. starting low on the bodice
were carried down almost 70 the
hem. gradually widening as they de-
scended. TO be finished at the ex-
treme point with Brobdignagian
acorns OF thick twisted silk. The
outer part OF soft gabardine was
worn over what appeared to be a
blouse, made in the same shade of
pretty de-chine or charmeuse,
but was. In reality. fashioned on the
lines OF the quaint little straight
garment. Sid 10 be worn with a
mandarin jacket This ia one of the
many useful innovations Of mod
ern dress for girls. being OF far
simpler construction than the blouse
proper. it possesses an undoubted
attraction Of its own. and gives great
scope for personal expression in the
manner OF its wearing. The collar
and sleeves of this so-called blouse
were given some dainty stitching
with thick silk.
Another model OF the same type
also showed the pretty detail Of
picked up tucks, carried down to-
ward the hem is varied lengths.
each tuck starting from an original
little motif, surely inspired by those
vivid green "Noah's Ark trees of
early days. worked in rope silk. The
fuIlness OF material i'm this model
was kept well 10 the sides, and from
out OF the softness came two point
ed wings of the gabardine which
were caught loosely toward the
hack: these were thickly incrusted |
with silk darning, which gave a dec |
orative finish TO an otherwise Sc |
we're scheme. The bodice of this
model was crossed and softly rolled |
over, one end being tucked into the |
waistbelt. a touch of the silk darn |
ing appearing again at wrist and |
collar.
Distinctly Persian.
Then was seen a model distinctly |
Persian in design, with its straight
flowing lines. the width of which in
creased perceptibly toward the hem,
bottle-green charmeuse had been
chosen for this. continued with a
light tracery of dull gold which out
lined the hem, the edge Of broad |
stoles thrown over each shoulder |
and long slightly bell shaped sleeves.
These. with the skillful placing of a !
deep belt, contributed 20 the insist !
ent Persian effect OF the whole. BY !
p change OF material from char !
neuse to gabardine. one Of the lat !
est cOat-froCks could be achieved |
from this same model.
A dainty gray frock. designed !
with the same simplicity as those ]
already mentioned. proved how
adaptable are the best models at the |
moment. Carried out in a shade OF !
dusty gray. and entirely free from !
the blue tone which seems 10 give |
gray a hard appearance, this gown /
would prove equally satisfactory for 1
q tea frock. or later on. for summer
wear. The only decoration permit /
ted was some effective stitching in /
n raised design OF squares, the same |
relief being visible here and there /
among the cunningly devised folds |
A Persian effect was distinctly APP |
parent in more than one of these |
models. notably SO in the case of a /
gray -frock. with its coat TO |
match. These were given a happy |
combination 0f dun blue and tar
nished silver, these colors in slightly |
holder relief adjoining the collar.
For tea or restaurant frocks. !
black and white still seems 20 hold |
arst place. white predominating over
the black with which IL is used. |
Many charming and plQUant
schemes. each showing some uneX-
pected and quaint device. are 20 be
seen at this house.
FIegancc in Clothes.
ELEGANCE for a woman consists IN
wearing that which is appropriate,
that Is. clothing which harmonlzes
with her own idea and which is
suited 20 every hour and circum-
stance IN which she may ind her
self. according % the letter which
Paul Poiret. creator OF fashions in
Paris. has indited To the Women
OF America He has sent with that
letter 20 this country Il models
which have been reproduced by his
own representatives here tn America
Tor American women. one house in
each Of several large cities IS privi-
legged 20 show these. according 10 the