Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-08-12

00 7E 10 not know all we "ouio
NlM like 70 know concerning that
W\V which is happening at the
exhibitions of clothes now in
full swing In the French capital
Unfortunately, there are not IS many
American buyers there as France hoped
and desired. This does not mean that
the usual quota of gowns will not be
purchased. All the dominant shops and
dressmakers have their commissioners
in Paris. either resident or temporary
ones.
Those who have their fingers on the
pulse of women in mass know that the
entrance of America into the war will
not defect from their buying new
clothes in the autumn. The propaganda
against 1t hasn't firm legs to stand on.
1t is made in good spirit. but not under
good guidance. The women who are at
the head of 1T argue that women must
not buy clothes, in order to release all
the workers in the garment industry
for war Well, the American govern
ment has attended to that. Conscription
means serving or surrendering- The
ranks of the fighters viii not be de-
pleted or swelIed by the attitude of
women toward buying clothes. What
will be inlmeasurably swelled are the
houses of charity and the employment
bureaus, If women obey the good
hearted speakers of the won1en's COM
mittee of the National Council of De-
Tense.
As for the French houses today, they
regret the absence Of large number
of American buyers. but not one un-
derstands the situation better than the
French. They do not like ocean cross
ing in times of peace: in times of sub
marine warfare they have an utter hor-
ror of 1t. Their regret at not having
their salons filled to the brim as in the
old DAYS, with the jostling crowd of
BUYERS from America representing every
class of women's clothing, is tempered
by the presence of thousands of our
soldiers. engineers. doctors and avia-
tors.
One hears from every side that these
men in Paris are spending their pay
in a liberal manner. and that the social
and spiritual change in Paris since our
Army arrived is tremendous
1t is the most natural thing in the
world that the buoyancy, optimism and
remarkable rise in commerce which
have been brought about in Paris by
the men who wear our khaki should be
reflected in the oostumery which the
French designers offer to the American
buyers this month
1t is not overdone, so we hear. There
were enough American buyers in Paris
during the spring TO forewarn the
French designers against making clothes
that incorporate military features with
which the American woman is over
familiar.
What is surprise to the French Is an
old, old story to US. They know moth
ing of the cowboy hat. the clay-colored
flannel shirt rolling open in front, the
military jacket buttoned to the chin
and the West Point overcoat, but we
have known these from the beginning.
and we have not worn them because
they were part of the soil.
Paris, however, will reflect IN her
new costumes just enough of-our mill
tary uniforms to make them interesting
to US. Her only market today is the
two Americas and segment of Eng
land. and it is said that she has COM
bined the Spanish and the North Ameri-
can effect in her clothes. with only
dash of Russian
There will be an undoubted Spanish
influence this season The reason for
this is not political, althouh Brazil and
Argentina have filled the French dress
making houses for decades with their
wealthiest customers Their sympathy
today is very dear to Paris, and what
ever is dear to Paris comes out in her
clothes.
The real reason, however, behind the
Spanish influence is the warm well
: come that Madrid gave to an early ex-
hibition of Paris clothes Paul Poiret
was there directing and suggesting,
and all the other important dress
makers exhibited in this important neu-
trail country Poiret. Worth and Lam
vim have been urging Spanish cos
tumery for two years. and this exhibit
ton in Madrid clinched the situation
In exactly what manner the Spanish
costumery of several centuriesrwill be
reflected in the new French clothes
were not yet quite sure, but the i'm
mense ruffs and elongated cuffs of
white organdy and muslin which have
appeared on new bodices indicate that
the portraits of Pbilip the Fourth and