The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-12-13

colored rose at the waist, which has
now come TO America
NEW NORk-Whcu we are not
Oriental We are often Spanish Jeanne
Iau,iu and Paul Poiret used red rose,
4, their trademark and they claimed
that the idea was suggested 20 them
hy their own love for all that Is Span
i.h FOR these two great artists find m
Seville and Madrid the same in,pIra
run fer clothes that made Spain
ruler and arhilcr OF women's d.cs,
~ the NlNtccnth century Madrid wore
lts rose IN ITS mouth or IN IT'S hair. but
lduyin and PolrcNtook a formal rose
and applied II to the surface OF a COS
tune As a painter put, symbol or an
INITIAL ON the corner Of his canvas, 90
show that the work is his
At The Waistlins.
Now Callot takes the rose, Callot
who /, Oriental, and not Spanish, and
places It at the waiStinc as the mark
of piece OF work that comes from
that house. Naturally, there is not "A
rose with every gown but when me
French thcalcrs broke forth into bril-
liant plays for the American public,
the actress who was gowncd by Callot
made her greatest sartorlal sensation
in gown Of dull red Jersey with a
long. brilliant necklace OF Jet and a
huge rose at her waist
Bullol. who Is neither Oriental nor
! Spanish, but pure medieval the
medieval that comes from fairy tales
and the librcltocs OF old opcras-haS
used the rose in padded satin as an
ornament to hi, street irockS, hut even
he ha, taken the full blown satin
flower and placed it somewhere on the
surface of slim sandwich irock
The fashion has filtered 10 Amerka
II l., gratefully received because ' IT
opens up another branch OF apparel IN
dustry that may catch some Of the
money ot this continent and give II 10
those who axe employed in the making
Of womcn's clothes II flowers are
fashionable there is plenty Of work for
skilful hands to do, and the huge rose
with its open, loosely hung petals made
OF satin, velvet or gauzc is an admir-
able adjunct to the new gown that
must be slim Of Silhouette and scanty
as 10 material
The yellow Rose Preferred
You may not know that in France
there is a common avoidance OF ycI-
10y rose worn by a woman, because OF
some current belief among the Sophis-
ticatcd classes as to its meaning. In
other countries and outside OF Paris,
there is no such social tradition.
Therefore, the great yellow rose, which
/, the easiest 10 apply to the greatest
number OF gowns, IS chosen rather
than the pink or scarlet one. The wide
demand for black and gold mixtureS it
all women'S coStumcry gives the ycl
low rose its best chance when there i!
black gown 10 he enhanced by thl'
single flower. and il is also used OF
pink satin, on a red Spanish gown anc
on dark blue irockS that arc touched
with gold metallic tissue.
The red rose is used, also the black
one, but the yellow one that has some
thing OF the tint Of a Cloth of Gold
rose, as it is called in the south, IS
tlr one preferred to all others It is
worn at the waiStline, a trlfle to the
left side. Il may acCcn,uate the hem
OF the loose corslet, or it may be placed
in the folds Of the skirt
The gown of golden brown velvet
which is skelched today, was the focus
Of attention at "a smart dinner where
none of the women wore decolletc
irocks, following the social observance
Of the war as Paris has decreed Il
The gown wa, NO less brilliant aud
exquisite because it was high in tn,
neck 1t was trimmed with panels o