Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-07-29
>me Features Of the Fashionable New Silhouette

has been arranged for by dressmakers
and individuals of power and prestige
in Paris.
Another new silk which was shown
at Lyon and which is said to be very
beautiful is called La Soleil de la Vic
toire. 1t is SO eminently French for
its workers to reflect their hopes. their
sacrifices and their faith in terms OF
fabrics and women's clothes!
1t is no longer considered in good
taste to wear anything that resembles
the American flag. That unfortunate
episode in our national costumery has
passed by.
1t is in good taste TO wear a dark
blue coat and line 1t with red: blue
and white striped awning skirt may
hawking about of the national colors
in the very moment when they are TO
be baptized by the blood of thousands
who are fighting for an ideal. and by
the willing sacrifices of women who are
rushing their men forward on the path
of that idealism. too vulgar to be per
MISSILE.
There are other fashions. however.
that follow the army that have moth
ing to do with the colors. The coat
suit. for instance. that has a West
Point skirt and an Annapolis jacket.
fastened with brass buttons patterned
after those of the English admiralty.
is an acceptable and agreeable bit of
fashion.
The white duck tam-o'shanters pat
termed after those worn by the men Of
the navy. the dark blue flannel MILDLY
blouses laced with white cord and I'm
ished with white and blue pique col
lars have nothing Objectionable about
them.
These are fashions that follow a COM
monplace road. They were expected as
soon it was found that thousands
of women would be ordered into uni
forms because they were training for
certain active sections of war Keller
work, but such minor fashions as the
new bracelet, the marine cravat unde"
the collar of blouses, the little jeweled
box for sugar are caprices that are en-
livening to costumery.
The bracelet has been copied from
those worn by our soldiers, as well IA
by those of the allies. You know. the
men under the flag must wear plaque
on which is engraved the name and
address of the owner. so that he can be
identified, If dead or wounded. over In
Paris they have taken up the idea
through the medium of jewelry. and our
women are doing it over here.
In these days of sudden and extraor-
binary accidents, of continual trans
portation from one side of the continent
to the other, 1t is not an unintelligent
thlnR TO 90, TO wear u OIL OIL Je"eHS
fastened to the arm, which will iden-
tify one. In France it is called the
plaque d'identite."
It was also the French women who
| created the sugar box. The French
government allows two Jumps Of sugar
day to each person, and because sugar
was scarce and jewelry plentiful. the
women had Cartier make them small
boxes just the size of two Jumps OF
sugar. which they carry on their lorg-
nette chain or as bangle to the brace
let.
We have not yet come to such strin-
gency in our sugar diet, but this little
jeweled box is convenient thing for
women to carry about them who use
saccharine tablets.
The marine cravat, which is the DOM
inant caprice of fashion in this country.
since America went into the war, Is
made up in colors. as well as in black
, The regulations in our navy call Tor
| the latter color. 1t is an interesting
fact that the English navy ordered
| these black cravats as a symbol OF
| mourning for Lord Nelson after the
battle of Trafalgar.
With characteristic observance of ira
| dition, the British government has
| never suspended this sentence upon
| the sailors. The American navy fol-
| lows the tradition, but it is safe to say
| that many thousands of its men do not
know why they wear the black cravat.
| There is a brand-new color heralded
| by Paris which has nothing to do with
| the army or navy. 1t dips back into
| the archives of the dear, dead past.
! This color is terra Gotta, and the cables
from Paris tell US to expect it in all
costumes and used in devious manners