Evening star., 1917-01-21

blue. but by itself or with white satin
1t is best and most fiattering.
Gray used with white in this manner
| Will greatly influence spring styles
black, or even of the black and white
/ com bination. instead OF ordering new
things in colors will brighten the black
with gray: the couturiers, scentirg tho
demand, are, / am told, making charm
ing combinations OF II to be shown in
February.
Dyes are difficult to obtain in Paris.
just as other things are. and while
black may not be easier than any other
| dye. with such great experimentation
going on in it 1t is probable that the
dye used now is purely French. and IL
SO. then it is a great success.
Cloth, tricotine. serge and gabardins
will make tailored suits and ornate
frocks for spring, with thousands of
yards OF satin, to be sure. Satin never
enjoyed such popularity in Paris ~
during the last year, and il is decidedly
not on the wane. Some gowns and long
spring coats put satin only in part OF
the construction-in the upper or lower
portion. with any Of the other materials
added.
Satin enhances the value and beauty
of any fabric it touches. 1t is fright
| fully expensive here, but women will
have nothing else. for they know that
a gown of it is worth six of another
material. so there's method in their
madness.
| The evening frocks showing the tunic
1 that suggests the Greek draping are
very classical Some of the new ones
are in Natter blue. with the entire
front embroidered in a shadow-work
| stitch in dull gold Paris does so love
| these gold touches and many, many
| gowns are more than touched with II.
/ l have seen new evening gowns almost
/ entirely composed OF gold lace. one tier
| on another, and the picture was en-
chanting. All the decoration that some
| of the afternoon or evening gowns have
is this embroidery across the front and
| back. forming a veritable medieval
| armor. New things that are admired
employ the gold in the same manner.
and we are sure to see the idea repro
duced for spring and summer.
*
The designers here are bringing out a
heavy weave of satin for the first spring
| suits, a substitute for serge. There
is a strong tendency to omit a blouse
and arrange the coat so that 1t can bc
kept on. few of these new coats are
buttoned down the back from neck to
hem, which removes any possibility OF
their being taken off in a public place.
1t appears that the prevailing creed
in fashion is that a woman must not
think of going in her shirt sleeves any
more than a man would think of do
ing it; she wears wash blouse beneath
the jacket for purposes Of cleanliness.
but not publicity. So far-reaching is
this creed that the medieval tunic.
which extends only to the hip line and
is fastened to the shoulder or slips over
the head, is worn with a cloth skirt
over a blouse even in the house.
Probably the best thing to remembe =
in buying clothes now is that the figure
must be strai ghtened out in the medic
val manner, from bust to hips. You
can choose your own way of doing IT.
whether by a deep girdle, by tho
! straight lines of the fabric or by belt
of suede leather that conceals any
inward curve beneath the arms toward
the waist.
I There is no evidence that embroidery
in bullion and silk thread will go out
of fashion this spring, but the ornate
French designs taken from Stained
glass windows of the fifteenth century
have given way to the more primitive
designs that one sees on the pottery
of Indians.
The fashion for the cashmere and
Paisley Shawls that came out in Octo-
ber will again find expression this
spring in figures printed fiat sur
faces and also the reproduction of the
Paisley pear which is old Indian de-
sign, in embroidery done in colored
and bullion threads.