The Jasper news., 1917-05-31
WOMEN TURN TO
ONE=PIECEGOWN


combined can produce.
Today 1t is exceedingly difficult to
make an American woman appear In
her shirt sleeves In public; In the pri-
vacy Of her own home, yes; but even
there she finds a one-piece frock far
more artistic than q cloth skirt with
separate white blouse. 1t is because
she has discovered, after many years,
that the figure looks infinitely better
and more graceful with long line
reaching from neck to hips, that she
wears a sweater constantly in the
house. She has begun to feel that the
waistline should be obliterated at all
costs.
In this frame of mind she naturally
turns to the gown cut in one piece,
hanging in long line. 1t allows her to
comfort herself with the thought that,
even If her waist Is too thick In front
and her skirt rides, these deficiencies
are covered up by the frock or coat
that, charitably trife too high in the
waistband, passed them by without re-
vealing them to the onlooker.
Long Line Under the Arms.
So insistent have the women be-
come upon hiding the waist, except
by the merest fraction Of supple
curve that the dressmakers are pleas
ing them by introducing drapery I'M
der the arms which hangs below the
knees. 1t Is transparent, this drapery,
nd nno &c oh in, hn nj a @ hn
er uses her arms, but 1t fulfills Its mis-
sion of Strengthening out the figure In
an admirable manner. 1t cannot be en-
ployed on an informal frock, the kind
that one would wear between the hours
of eight In the morning and seven In
the evening, but on any type of eve
ming frock, 1t Is well placed.
Another method that the dressmak-
ers have of catering to the concealment
of the waistline Is the use of the elab-
crate cape Of tulle or lace that goes
over the shoulders and extends to the
tips of the fingers. The fashion for
lace of any kind gives one variety Of
methods of draping the body line in q
| lissome manner. In daytime frocks
the long line Is given by the use of
braid, of ribbon, of plating and en-
broldery. There are also glorlfied sus-
penders Of ornamentation that are at
tached to skirts with chiffon blouses
that give the correct and desired sill
houette. They do not extend over the
front and back of the frock, but pass
over the shoulders, reach to the hips,
widening as they go under the arms,
and are often loosely belted in at the
waist by one or more of the draped
girdles that attach themselves to every
kind Of gown this season.
These sdspenders, by the way, should
prove an inspiration to the woman
who wants to bring the gowns she
possesses into the present picture. II
she has q dark silk or cloth skirt, for
example, with thin blouse to match
In color, she can easily bring the two
into composite whole by the addition
of this skeletonized jacket of en-
broidery, or soutaching on net.
Lace is RIotIng over Clothes.
The experts prophesled revival
of lace in the immediate future and
the knowledge they possessed. proved
exact. Lace positively riots over the
new clothes. 1t is used for entire
frocks, for long wraps, for parasols,
negligees, pettlcoats, coats and eve
ming frock drapery.
There Is surely some economical rea-
son behind this furore for valuable
and not easily procured article Of
dress. It Is quite evident that the
French wish to make lace the high
fashion In order to give employment
to the thousands of needlewOrkers of
Its own country and those who have
come from Belgium and who have to
be supported by the French govern
ment. This strain of caring for the
homeless of the neighboring country is
telling on France, for, In addition to
the prisoners she has taken, the num-
Der of alien mouths in which she has
to put food, constitute small nation,
Therefore, to give the Belgians and the
French widows work, all sorts of In.
dustries have been revived and encour'
aged, esAecially those that will have a
good chance of bringing In American
dollars converted into francs. In Amer
lea, we are minus needleworkers OF
Importance, so the major portion OF
what we must use, comes from the
lacemaking centers of Europe. The
fashion for 1t may lend to foolish and
inartistic application Of cheap and taw'
dry laces to frocks, and mass Of II
where 1t should be avoided, but, so far
there is no diminution Of the fashion
which came into Its first bloom as the