Middletown transcript., 1917-09-22


established favorites in France. Every
one is of the opinion that the entry
of America into the war is the begin
ming of the end. And indeed we, who
have lived in France all through the
past three years, have almost come to
the end of endurance.
At Biarritz in the autumn season we
always look for advance notes on the
winter styles. Nearly all the impor-
tant dreSsmakers of Paris have branch
establishments at Biarritz and it is
here that the first show of winter fash
ions takes place.
Biarritz is almost a frontier town
and so close to Spain that the Span
ish women, who are devoted to dress,
have made it second Paris it is here
that they purchase their beautiful win
ter toilettes in the fall and it is here
that they, or very many of them, are
worn for the first time, just to take
off the newness and-sO they say-to
get the better of the sharp custom
house people when crossing the from
tier.
Lovely Models for Autumn.
Paquin is showing some rarely love-
Iy models this autumn, in dainty lit
tie "magazin," which is close to the
sea front and side by side with the IA
nous Maison Lewis.
One Paquin model seen was charm
ing and eminently useful dress ex-
pressed in midnight-blue charmeuse
and "shrapnel-gray" poult de sole.
The ceinture was handsomely bead
ed in blue, gray and silver, and the
long tassel matched. Round the decol-
lete neck of this little dress there was
a narrow band Of skunk. This is es-
sentially a useful style of dress, for
| it might be worn CT almost any oc-
casion, always looking smart and un-
common without being in any way SEN
sational; it is the kind of dress which
| has gone far to make Nine. Paquin's
reputation.
1 can imagine this model copied in
black charmeuse, with ceinture and
tussel in scarlet, blue, silver and jet
beads, and the touch Of skunk on the
collar, or again, in sapphire blue silk
finished cashmere with belt and tas-
sci in cut steel beads worked on pale
gray suede and a handsome steel tas-
sci. In fact a dozen different vari-
ations suggest themselves, for the out
line of the model is charmingly orig
inal and simple.
Original Tailored Suit.
The figure illustrated shows highly
original tailored suit created by Red
fern. Here you have the large turn
over collar which is q feature of the
autumn season. These collars are
to be found on many of the new coats
and wraps and they are exceedingly
comfortable and easy. The Redfern
model was carried out in tete de Ne.
gre duvetine and brown and white
checked velvet. The skirt is slit up
the sides in doll fashion and where 1t
opens it shows panels of the checked
velvet; this little cOatee hangs straight
at the back and is cut in the inevitable
sack style.
Monks cloth" is very much in evi
dence in the advance models shown al
Biarritz just now. Callot is using this
cloth for specially effective driving
wraps, and she advocates very bril-
liant and rich colors, such as brick-red
rust-red, milita2y-scarlet, japonica-pinl
and emerald.
Callot is mixing skunk with ermine
on some of her new evening wraps
and Is thus obtaining most attractive
results. For example, flowing wrap
very like the loose robe worn by
Cinnamon of high degree, made OF
bright japonica-pink faced cloth and
tined with black charmeuse hrocadeC