Middletown transcript. [volume] (Middletown, Del.) 1868-current, 1917-12-08

from every designer who wants to
play with the garment in either COM
nlercial or artistic way.
The short street coat. however. re-
mains conventional. So little has been
done s?iff this garment In the line
Of originality that we begin to believe
that the French influence dominates
even in this line of American costum-
cry. Paris, as you remember. insisted
that she could do little with the coat
suit because her tailors were welding
hand grenades instead Of scissors.
Variety In Armholes.
It Is not possible to deal with
sleeves, in detail or in mass, without
taking the armhole into serious con-
sideration. The tailors and dressmak-
ers talk in an interesting manner
about this alleged minor part of the
costume. 1t is q pity, one might say
in passing. that there are any cutters
and filters who trent it as a minor
consideration, for the average woman
knows that the skill or awkwardness
in cutting an ar1nhole makes or mars
the fit of the frock and her individual
comfort.
There are few people who can re-
strain their tempers when the subject
of armholes Is mentioned, because the
extraordinary deficiency Of talent in
this particular line of dressmaking
reaches out into the daily lives Of thou
sands. Let us hope that the cutters
of this winter will have learned more
than they knew last winter, If they
are going to attempt a dozen instead
of two varieties.
There is the tight Directoire arm
hole that hugs the skin so that the
fronts of the coat or bodice must be
perfectly adjusted in order that they
will not rise in waves about the neck.
There is the long, loose Chinese arm
hole which demands certain lack OF
contour in the bodice or jacket.
There is the pear-shaped armhoie
which extends to the waistline and
INFO which an elbow-length or three
quarter sleeve is usually placed. And
| topping the list of comfortable arm
holes, is The one that belongs to the
lining and not to the bodice.
New Type Saves Temper.
If you have had trouble with the
fit of your jackets and blouses because
of ill-cut armholes, remember thai
this last type saves temper and tears
When the sleeve is put into the arm
hole of the lining and the outer ma
terial is allowed to drop over it, NOV
ing with security and freedom accord
ing to the shifting of the shoulders
then you get the best armhole that the
American tailors can achieve.
This is the kind that is now in higf
fashion. 1t is run well over the toI
of the arm and up on the lining, il
order that there may be no revealin:
of the inside material when the Quite
armhole swings to and fro. Som'
dressmaKers use band Of embroider.
or soutaching Or ornamented cloth o
some kind over the lining from tn
edge of the armhole half way to tn
front. in order that the effect is goo'
when the outer armhole shifts.
| The recognition given by the de
signers to this armhole in the linin
has been the reason for an influx o
sleeves made of different materia
from the gown fabric and also in
different color.
Street frocks of heavy cloth vii
have long, tight sleeves Of braide
satin running from shoulder to wrist
They do not make shocking contras
in color, but depart from the tone o
the gown sufficiently to give an arts
tic touch.
(Couyright. Mcclure Newspaper Syndicate.