Evening star., 1917-09-30
Paris Prepares Alluring Fall and Winter c

| the top. Probably there will be more
Jet used on hats even than on gowns.
While the smooth silk plush hats DO
not require any more ornament than q
band and a buckle, the ornate hats OF
panne velvet and chiffon velvet are per-
mitted to flash forth great fans of jet,
broad bands and quills of it, and I'M
mense ornaments made of Jet beads.
There is a struggle going on today
between the plain and the trimmed hat.
The smart women want the FORMER ana
the grasping women want the latter.
II there is to be sudden inruSh or
commercial business done by women
who are spending their own money for
trimmed hat will be In strong demand.
Callot cuts her skirts ten inches from
the floor today. Bernard and many
others. however. cut them fourteen
inches from the ground. Cheruit. who
makes the longest skirts in the Paris
collection. lifts her hem eight inches
from the ground
Would you care to wear a chemise on
which was embroidered the baton of
Joseph Joffre, the hero of France? Or
would you prefer to have one which
has the American eagle surrounded by
the stars of all the states? Or maybe
you would prefer to have your chemise
embroidered with the French war
phrase, which translated into English
reads: Spend your gold for your coun-
try.
One regrets very much to say that
all of these chemises are offered by eX-
elusive houses. There are no limits,
evidently, to which the manufacturers
will not go in their search for origin
ality.
The cadet sash of dull red worn by
the cadet captains in the graduating
class at West Point have been adopted
for young girls costumes. and they are
very effective. The youngsters at West
Point have to pay $40 for this insignia
but the American girl will not pay .
third of that for hers.
The West Point coat has also been
brought into high fashion. as 1t suits
itself to the silhouette of the hour. 1t
Is made in gray West Point cloth and
worn over dark blue skirt. and 1t is
also made in dark blue with suit to
correspond, enlivened by brass buttons
and the dull red officers sash.
These jackets end at the waist line
and high, straight collars that reach
to the chin.
one-piece frocks retain the chemise
silhouette. There is slight change in
worn for over year Doeuillet is the
designer who introduced the slashed
tunic. which makes a change from the
commonplace. This brings the sill
houette. which has been featured for
two months: and in using the word
Indian" one means the dark-skinned
races Of all nations and all times.
The straight, embroidered panels
hanging at the back and front OF the
figure have been adopted from this
race. The lavish embroidery which
covers the surface, of these panels is
also taken from Indian relics
Miles Of braid will be used this WIN
ter. One feels that 1t must have been
bought In the same stupendous guam
titles as wire has been bought by those
engaged on the battle fields, and some
Of the braid designs used on the new
as the barbed wire trench defenses
which we see in tho moving pictures
of the war.
Silk and mohair braid will also be
brands Of braid placed around them
from bust to hips to give a corselet ef-
feet Skirts are banded with wide and
narrow braid. Sleeves are finished with
it at wrist and armhole. High collars
and pockets are made of the extra wide
pieces of braid.
There evidently has not been any
strict decision among the French de-
sgners as to where the waist line will
be placed. Each house exploits a waist
line of its own. There are narrow
sashes that place it at the hips; there
are corselet skirts that place it almost
as high as Josephine considered fash
ionable; there are jackets that shape
their seams into the normal waist line,
thereby paying tribute to nature.
Paul Poiret has reopened his house.
and insists that woman's dress must
be suited to the drastic needs and SOM
ber moods of the hour. One is not quite
sure that Poiret chastened and made
sad Will be himself. Yet, now that he
has found an abiding place on the
stage, he is quite willing to exploit SIM
pie clothes for those out of theatrical
life.
His new models are excellent. Natu-
rally, he uses the oriental line. for he
would go against all his artistic con-
victions IL he changed it, He uses
black, blue and white velvet in lavish
DOING A GOOD WORK