The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-12-25

fAfEW YORK, Dec, I.--Oncc, many
~ years ago when there was peace
A On the planet, Mrs. William X.
Vanderbilt Sr., appeared at the races
In Paris in q gown OF burgundy cloth
npAde BY Paul Poiret, The coat was
stset and the back was in the form OF
: sippling cape. Y
Jourpalists, buyers ad camera folk
toek instant recogni,ih OF this new
Hasbisp and here and there women were
Sufficiently interested and pleased with
Il 10 incorporate the idea into their own
cestsmery
A year ago this jacket was revived,
France was Under the pressure OF the
government to limit the use Of mate
riat>thst had woolen threads in them,
and her efforts toward cooperation
with the government produced new
silhoyeste and Q new type OF apparel
Il Hides the Figure,
We nf the reportoriai segment told
ths American public OF this over and
oSef, but, lavish OF wool and not clear
y lIped up against the full skirt, the
sloauitcturers and the dressmakers did
nj ADOPT the Paris idea.
(, Nov they willdhave to.
IN nim silhouette is the thing. None
49, covit at it.. 1t means patriotism,
nm doesn't mean grace, there Is a way
q Getljng around the question by put
tn h strokes Of material that give Shc
i1ogession Of fuilness and grace with
- breskins ones faith with the gov
upaeat.
~ slim skirt and the short jacket: !:
t1ee ere the two outstanding features
~ incoming January fashions. That
Ef1Dee will throw all her strength into
IT. nesJdrs when she has her openings
Il February, there is no, doubt, but, 10
- 1nesntime, ''e must buy and make
new clothes, nos only for necessity, but
{ q keep the vast amount OF money in
~ couatsy in circulation through the
clensels that provide bread and butter
(. 10 clher women.
The short jacket is not always grace
fui when il is slim OF line. II il has
the rippiing contour 81 cape, espe'
/ cialH st the back. II destroys any awk'
ward lines that the figure beneath maI
possess, and il accentuates only th'
bssuty Of line In slim, curved figure
50 there vs. no reason 10 avoid II
whether you tip the scales at too littl
b o. tco much. You don't have to eat art
0rcw thin In order to be able " wea
such . costume, as you would have 4
\ Z II you we're to follow the law lai
dawn by some OF the French dress
mekess this season.
The short jacket, with It's ripplin
Z. cape back. Is only a short part OF
stnbne. influential movement towar
ne ioose background dropped benin
y : woman's figure. Il Is shown through
the ssmut OF clothes this month. Tn
t. women who looks upon 1t wisely an
well and realizes why ii is done an
what defects il covers, both in the gov
and In the figure, will prove herself
B woman of sense and sensitiveness TO II
corning features OF fashion.
The jacket that ripples all aroun
tn figure Is as cold as an unheatc
stone house, but the jacket that ripple
little in the back and has tight Il
tlng front, is apt to be quite con
forSsbie.
And mind you, the new gowns a
\ not going TO leave ii at that. Tn,
4 havs shoulders and chest proteeto
n beneath In one OF these short JACKIE
q shown in the sketch, there is a tig
Mftiug vest made on the order OF
tlgAtH and keeps out the chill win
M mep's waistoost but sleeveless. viii
y \ nothing more than a part and pare