davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1917-05-27

achieve this note Of personality. Charm
and distinction In dress are things
widely apart from costliness and ex-
travagance, and they may be attained
by every woman who will give her
dressing the necessary attention.
Suitability and appropriateness are
first to be considered in the selection
of clothes. Beauty and harmony we
strive for In every field. so to be truly
beautiful our clothes must often be
very plain, in order to be appropriate
to many everyday occasions. When
clothes are rightly beautiful they are
at one with their wearer and with
their environment. They become link
between the personality of the wearer
and the part of the world with which
clothes shall be plain does not mean
that they shall lack distinction and
charm. 1t may be more difficult to de-
sign within strict limits, but the result
is worth the effort.
when woman engages in business
her garments may well be as simple as
a mans. They may express frankness,
directness, and should be immaculate
and as clear-cut as poster. Mems
business clothes have evolved very
successfully of late and have shown
that. even though the style is confined.
interesting variations can be made un-
obtrusively on the theme. Suitable
dressing In business hours helps a
woman to be brief, to the point, con-
centrated and sane.
Now that we have disposed of busi-
ness" laughed Miss Dent. I'VE can
heave a sigh of satisfaction and walk
into our own realm. where softer. light
er thoughts are our province. During
the social afternoon and evening hours
there can be far greater play of fancy
in dress. Women are then the rulers
and hostesses and the poetry of life is
admitted. 1t is a theory of mine that
afternoon frocks should appreciate the
latitude they are allowed by the un-
written law of suitability, and should
blossom forth in fair. gay coIors, so
that dainty women will become like the
visible manifestations of the perfume
of this radiant earth-in a word, like
fowers-for woman's mission is, like
that OF the flowers, to create gentler
more aspiring thoughts in theNhearts Of
those who see her.
In evening clothes a woman is given
still wider latitude, and she may go
beyond light gayety and become mys-
terious and subtle. OF all the mediums
for the expression of the emotional
color is the first which comes to me,
and even II others think of music first.
that must be tabooed in the sphere
of clothes. Color is full of the emo
lay down arbitrary rules for its har-
monious use. 1t is a deep and fasci-
mating subject, well understood only
by exceptional persons without long
study. These exceptional persons are
attuned to color vibrations, feel them
sensitively. and whatever color COM
binations come to us from their hands
give us a sense Of joy and unity and
perfectness.
"It is, however, within the province
Of every woman, whether gifted or
not, to remember to be attentive to
Evening star., 1917-05-27
Advocates SmpMcity as Keynote of Wartime Dress

color and to learn to use it to her adj
vantage. SO that she may give pleasure
in her personal attire, and, In turn,
be pleased by admiration. which is.
after all. only the reflection of pleas
ure. Grace of line comes hand in hand
with color, and no woman should
imagine that she is not interested in
these kindred charms.
Now, in evening clothes one is al.
lowed to sparkle and scintillate, and
there are myriads of inspirations in
nature from which to draw. Think of
dewdrops on spider-webs, sunIit water
falls. moats dancing in a bar of sun.
light. glowworms, firefiies. frosted WIN
dowpanes. calm lakes rejecting gor.
geous colors, and the eternal sky
guests of night. the moon and stars
and illumined fleece clouds. even the
more unexpected and rare guests
comets. Mystery can be introduced
into evening robes by observing and
translating into fabrics the incense
smoke. mist, storm clouds, forest
depths. sunsets that fade, rainbows,
and SO on endlessly into poetry and
After listening to these original dress
ideas of Miss Dent it was Interesting
to learn that her prize dress was en-
titled, Sunset Mists.'' and that it cor
sisted OF an underskirt of turquoise
biue net. painted in silver. with
Persian pattern overskirt of orchid
sclntillatlng net, trimmed with Luxor
satin ribbon in turquoise blue tints
ahed ana marrgw % velvet ribbon in orchid
shades- The bodice was painted pale
orchid faille silk. trimmed with tur-
quotse blue ribbon
The scinttllating net is a new even
ing dress material and very beautiful"
said the artist, land l have a distinct
ieaning toward the Persian in all INV
designing and painting. 1t has the sub
tlety and mystery lacking in occidental
arr. When ! think of the Gothic period
OF the middle ages 1 think of deep COL
ors or wonderful richness and comfort
put for mystery and subtlety of the
orient 1 go to the Persian, in evening
clothes especially. There is. however, a
tendency in all modern art to go back
to the east for both subject and color.
You see it In the sculptures of Paul
Manship and in the mural DECORATIONS
of Albert Herter
For my own part draw largely from
nature for my inspirations and the best
come in the springtime. In all NV work
l experiment by feeling. for within
each OF us there is an underlying sys-
tenn and purpose upon which We draw
for guidance consciously and uncon.
sciously In any case. there is a won
derful psychic meaning in all colors
which some persons seem to intuitively
know and feel 1 believe that this eense
Is based on some actual inherl.ed
'.-'-'
This young woman. who has made the
study of dress from the standpoint of
the artist, fulflls in her own costuminv
her ideals of simplicity with the note
of art which achieves distinction ana
charm. To her mother Miss Dent at.J
tributes a large share of her successa
''She is a born designer, and she en-
my bent in that direction
from childhood" she says. my later
was gained in the School of
Industrial Art and in the School of De-
for Women in Philadelphia, a.
we'll as in the New York School of Fine
and Applied Art, of which Frank Alvah
Parsons is principal"
Evening star., 1917-05-27
Home Economics Expert Tells How to Prevent Waste

solutely wasted in America every day.
Think also of the waste which comes
of permitted decay in such things as
apples oranges and bananas. each of
a potato. And the farm housewives
are quite as wasteful in this respect
as their city sisters. There is an
other waste which should be stopped at
once. l refer to the eating of food
when 1t is not needed.
There is also great waste practiced
in cooking too much. Now is the time
to simplify our cooking and to de-
crease the number of courses. If this
were done there would be less tendency
to overeating, which is another form of
waste, for we will all eat more than
enough If 1t is set before us. The diet
should be varied from day to day as
much as possible. for the sake of get
ting all the kinds of food needed. A
breakfast consisting of we'll cooked
cereal, an abundant supply of milk,
bread or toast and n beverage is all
any one requires; add to this the fruit
cheapest in market and no more could
be wanted.
During the summer much less food
is needed than during the winter, ex-
cept for those who are performing
heavy manual labor. The easiest way
to decrease the total intake of food is
by the use of bulky, succulent foods,
such as cabbage. lettuce, radishes,
green onions. string beans, beets,
squash and apples. AS well as saving,
we are much better off by eating less Of
the solid foods in summer, using sim
pier, cheaper things, and getting our
proteins from milk. eggs, cottage
cheese and the cereals. This will also
enable us to send the solid foods to the
men in the trenches, who are undergo
Ing hard manual labor. suffering from
fatigue and chill, and, therefore, re-
quiring all the heat-producing food
which can be got to them.
Il would sound a warning note to
mothers with children. for even in war
time they must not be underfed," cop-
cluded Mrs. Calvin. children must
have food sufficient and suitable for
their growth. for heat. work and re-
pair. and 1t must be Wholesome, nour-
ishing and well cooked food.
Let the women of America remem
ber that they can control the food sup
ply to great extent at this time. Let
them do SO by intelligent purchasing,
by discriminating use Of food and by
stopping every particle of waste in
Kitchen and at table. and let us all at
this time teach ourselves the old bibli-
cal truth. Better a dinner of herbs
where love is. than a stalled OK and
hatred herewith"
Evening star., 1917-05-27

and enthusiastic as to results. Holding
up package of kilograms. he said:
These are the responses to my first mes
sage. Let me show you a few of them
at random. just to indicate the spirit in
which it was received
A telegram from Uintah. Utah, said:
"omce wire 9th. Country peculiarly
adapted to navy beans. Believe we can
from Point Pleasant, Mich, said: 'Your
telegram 9Th. All employees and pupils
willing to forego vacation and do every
thing possible to put entire farm under
came the word: Preference telegram food
supply. Every foot of school land which
can be utilized will be put to best pos
sible use. Much Interest shown to pro-
duce abundant crops this season. Flower
garden and campus will be planted to
beans.'
X X
A telegram from El Reno, Okla, dated
April IL. read: "Your wire 9th. All
school farm seeded. Doubled garden
space. Breaking new ground. Holding
meetings in all districts. Practically all
Indians working. Prospects good. Letter
follows From Riverside, Cal, came the
reassuring message: EVERY acre school
farm utilized: in addition have rented
and in crop ITS acres for forage and 25
Tor vegetables, including potatoes ana
beans. Will increase it If can get land"
From Bemidhi. Mimi. came the mes
sage: Your telegram 9Th. Indians
loyal and preparations being made for
largest crop in history of Red Lake res
ervation." From Ignacio, Col. came the
following: "Your telegram 9th. Indians
are responding nobiy--to special call for
intensive farming on account Of war sit
uation. We have talked individually to
80 per cent of male adults. General coun-
Gil tomorrow"
Now since you have gained some i'm
preston of the response to the appeal
it may interest you to know how this
was followed up" said the commits
sioner. and he handed over a type
written copy of a letter. dated April IL.
1917, and addressed ITO Superintend-
ents." 1t was as follows:
Il am much gratihed at the prompt
and enthusiastic responses to my tele-
gram of April 9, urging increased pro-
duction Of foodstuffs by the Indians.
Plans are already under way on prac-
tically every reservation. This cam
paign must be. aggressively followed
up by every means within our reach.
The exact methods to be followed will
depend upon the conditions on each
reservation and upon the superintend-
Evening star., 1917-05-27

parts of the country, honey was cheap.
Honey is high in food value. and the
production Of honey Is an easy. mex
pensive and profitable undertaking.
Women should study market condi-
tions and should learn to know what
substitutes to use for high-priced arti-
cles. Skim milk cheese is high In nu-
tritive value as substitute for meat
and it is cheaper than other gradea.
Peanuts provide one Of the cheap sub
stitutes for meat, with high food value.
and in certain parts of the country
they are very easily grown. Peanuts
many ways. They make excellent and
nutritious sandwiches and when ground
they form an admirable substance in
milk soup.
"The housewife should avoid out-of-
season articles and should realize that
articles shipped a long distance are of
necessity dear. 1t must be borne in
mind. however, that well favored fruits
have their definite place In the diet
ary. and that bulky and green vege-
tables must be included if good health
Is to be maintained. But the time for
housekeepers to use them is when they
are in season locally and normally.
"One could write volume on in
increase the cost of their food by pur-
chasing small quantities and demand
ing their delivery at all times of the
day. One grocer in the city of Wash
ington makes a hundred deliveries q
day to one single apartment house, and
he does not have the exclusive trade of
that house, either. There are five other
grocers near. not to speak of those
downtown, who send up their supplies
daily. This grocer's delivery system
SfG pP h ic ul1
all of this 10 per cent could be deduct
ed from the cost of produce If women
merely ordered all they needed at GER
tain times of the day. say at 8 in the
having two instead of hundred deliv-
cries a day. and by this means saving
about per cent of the cost of living.
"Perishable foods should be pur-
chased carefully and carried home, and
staple goods should be provided in as
large quantities as are practicable and
should be safely stored. Carelessly
stored foods may be attacked by rats
and mice. The wastage of food from
rats in America today is amazing.
The waste in American households
is in any case appalling. have work
ed out just about what it actually
means in a few everyday commodities,
in the hope that some saving may be
effected during this critical period in
our economic history. slice Of bread
wasted day. tablespoonful Of sugar
thrown away, a level teaspoonful of
butter left on the side of a plate and
thrown into the garbage pail. which
is mild estimate in the average
American household every day, and the
nation has lost more than a million
pounds Of bread, 100000 pounds of su-
gar and 100000 pounds Of butter day.
Suppose a ship were sent out every
day laden with this amount of produce
to feed the starving Belgian children,
and we would consider that we were
doing quite a bit OF good. yet this
amount of these few commodities is alb
Evening star., 1917-05-27
-HE United States government re-
veals the value 1t sets on home

E1HE United States government re-
veals the value it sets on home
economics in war time by the
& fact that an expert IN tnls
branch of science receives one OF the
highest salaries it pays to woman
under the civil service. Mrs. Henrietta
w. Calvin. specialist in home economics
in the United States bureau OF educa-
tion, is this woman.
Mrs. Calvin has been connected with
the government for two years, having
been appointed to her present post
since the high cost OF living became one
of the very serious problems for which
Uncle Sam has endeavored to hnd
solution.
Previous to coming to Washington
Mrs. Calvin was instructor in home
economics in the oregon State Coiiege
for a number of years. AS an instance OF
her methods of instruction and as
demonstration of how knowledge
Of home economies may be made to
save and earn, Mrs. Calvin had her
nnni,s undertake the management of
the tea-room of the Oregon bu1idins at
the Panama exposition She LOOK SIX
of her girls down to the exposition 1or
six weeks at a time, where as part OF
their training they fed the oregon
families who were there as part OF the
Oregon plan at the exposition, actlhg as
guides and guards of their BUILDING. BE,
sides providing for their statesmen ana
atateswomen the home economics girls
fed seventy-five outsiders each Gay:
They went down to do this praceicaI
work for the experience, not for the
money, but at the close Of the expo
sftion they had cleared $4,000 by their
knowledge and practice as trained pro-
yiders This sum reverted to the oregon
state College as loan for future home
economies students.
Mrs Calyin's trained knowledge and
experience in home economics are now
being exerted in behalf of the yet more
serious wartime problem confronting
the housewives of the country, and to
them she is imparting advice and in
formation which has especial value at
this time. In recent interview she
said: <s t. :, ~,
hands Of men, with some cooperation
on the part of women. The trenspor-
tatfon question is wholly in the nards
of men. In the storage and oonserVa-
tion problem men and women are both
concerned, but the consumption of
food is wholly a woman's problem. 1t
follows, therefore. that one particular
service which the women of the coun-
try can give at this time is in the eco
uomica1 use of food
lone of the most important things
which the housewife has to learn is
to discriminate in buying during war
time, choosing those foods which serve
the needs OF the body. but which have
less value for storage and expectation.
In other words. using foods for home
usS which cannot be stored for and
sexported to the soldiers at home and
abfoad. Her family must be provided
wf@h SO much tissue-bhilding foods.
Evening star., 1917-05-27

her clothes. The Frenchwoman applies
the same thrift and economy in her
dressing as to the management of her
household, studying both as matter
worthy of intelligent thought. for her
appearance Is as important as are the
appointments Of her home.
IT would repeat that the simplest
lines are always safest and best for the
average woman. and if she will but
study her style carefully. following
this rule, and il she can add to the sim
plest costume a single accentuating
touch appropriate to her personality
and style. she will add the desirable
note Of distinction. A flower, ribbon
set In the right place will sometimes
Evening star., 1917-05-27

provided by meat and eggs, beans,
cheese, milk and cereals.
Now, as an application of how she
may save. the housewife in war time
may make larger use of cottage cheese
made from skim milk. This supplies
tissue building material, is very easily
digested and could be used by almost
every family every day. Besides being
one of the perishable products which
cannot be stored or exported. it is Sc
cured from what is often waste
product, while beef and beans may be
exported or supplied to such city
dwellers as have no means of procur-
ing the skim milk, cottage cheese or
buttermiIk.
Then, at this time, a woman should
choose very carefully between the
various types of meat. As an instance,
it takes two pounds of young poultry
to provide the same nourishment as
Evening star., 1917-05-27

one pound of meat. A broiling chicken,
therefore. contains little nourishment.
That chicken. allowed to range on the
farm throughout the summer. will eat
grasshoppers and worms and supply
itself with other food, and by fall it Is
in condition to feed three or four times
as many people as II used in spring.
The proportion of waste on young
broiling chicken is much greater than
on the large fowl.
take potatoes as another instance
At present they are selling for cents
pound and four-fifths of that pound
is water. Now, rice. at IL cents a
pound, contains no water and provides
the same sort of nutrition as is sup
piled by the potato. Another point in
which the average housewife is mis-
taken is in considering sugar merely
as flavor, whereas it is all pure food,
and at 10 cents a pound 1t is not dear
food. When sugar is added to fruit
substances the food value of the fruit
is extended to just the extent, of the
sugar used. Last year, through certain
Evening star., 1917-05-27

Of the gown, whether of embroidery or
other decoration, should be so planned
as to bring out the best features. Every
woman should use common sense, ana
lying her points in every aspect. in
tensifying some, subduing others. That
woman's art in dressing. The American
woman Is much more prone to follow a
fashion. whether or not it happens to
suit her-style.
This is the time, too, for the Ameri-
the economies of which the French
women make study in their dress
The means at the disposal Of the aver
age FrenchWoman are much more lin
tied than ours. For this reason she has
Evening star., 1917-05-27

nnE1H HIS is the time when every
W man must try to appear
brave and when every
q woman must look beauti-
full" said Edwin Markham, poet and
philosopher. at the conclusion of a
talk before the Arts Club OF Washing
ton
There was young woman In that
room to whom the words, thrown smil-
ingly out to an appreciative audience.
meant something more than the light
pleasantly intended, for that woman
has elected that part of her serious
work shall be the teaching of the Amer
lean woman to be beautiful by under
standing true beauty in dress.
ITO be beautiful is just what we have
to be this season, despite the war and
its economies" she said, laughingly
quoting the lines from THE Mikado":
When mans afraid. a beautiful maid
Is cheering sight to see.
The woman was Miss Dorothy Dent
a Washington artist who has gained
unique success in several lines Of art
and last year won the one-thousand-
dollar award given for the best Ameri-
can-designed and American-made even
ing gown offered by Commodore James
A. Pugh Of Chicago. Commodore Pugh
believes that American ability and tai =
ent in this direction are equal to those
OF France. and he opened tho contest,
which resulted In gratifying fulfill
ment Of his belief.
Il
There Is psychology in dress which
few women realize and make use of.
and the subject Is worthy Of far more
careful study than the great majority
of American women give it," said Miss
Dent. II mean the real study of dress
as a branch of art which brings
woman into harmony with those about
her and with her surroundings. And
just now is as good a time as any to
put those theories into practice, be-
cause, with every woman pledged to
patriotism to the extent of spending
minimum amount of money on clothes,
she can set her brain and artistic sense
to work in designing simple clothes of
plain and inexpensive material in the
clear-cut flowing lines desirable in well
designed clothes, bringing them into
harmony with the time and spirit.
"I believe 1t to be the moral duty of
every woman to look her best at all
times. The benison of beauty and har-
mony in her appearance Is a gift she
can make to the world, and the world is
richer for 1t. as it is for all things beau
tiful and harmonious. There should be
harmony between every woman and her
dress, of whatever style that woman
happens to be. There is no one without
good points which can be made more
prominent by proper dressing. as there
are few who have not features or phys
ical characteristics to be modified and
subdued.
'It Is a good rule for every woman to
remember that simplicity both In design
and color is a safe rule for every wom-
an not of the ideal type. The accents
Evening star., 1917-05-27
The Wrong Course.

6sN ERMANY is rushing straight to
VI ruin. She is going the limit in
wrongdoing. It's like the typesetter."
The speaker was William Dean How
ellis, the novelist.
fathers printing office in my boyhood:
".Will, how do you spell graphic
with one #" or two?'
IFS" Jim.' said l.. i guess you might
as well go the limit"
Evening star., 1917-05-27
The Defense.
noHN sPARGo. socialist leader, W

HOHN SPARGO. socialist leader, was
~ talking about the Germans.
when the Germans defend them
selves" he remarked, they say things
that any other nation would regard as
self-accusations.
'.The Germans remind me of the chap
who got drunk in New York and for
safetys sake asked to sleep in police
station.
This chap said boastfully afterward:
81 was sober enough, you bet, to
know was drunk"