Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1917-07-20


brim. 1t is built of thin black satin
and gets its name from the curve of
its brim. Its only ornaments are two
large pins of white jade.
GUST frivolity and bring in seriousness
in clothes, Irving Berlin, with his rag
time music, is the only one left of the
symbolic three.
If the women of America follow the
dignitied gowns of Lucille as they fol-
lowed her hoop skirts, girdle bOdices,
bObbed hair and tango slippers, we
will see a continent of women who
look as serious as the times.
The few models that have been ad
vanced as fOrerunners of what is to
come this autumn, have about them
dignity and seriousness that the men
of the community will applaud and in
d0rSe.
There is no undue showing Of the
ankles and shoulder; the bOeices are
subdued in the decolletage; the long,
wing-like, medieval draperies cover the
arms and fall to the knees; the cling
ing skirts start at q slightly high waist
line and fall against the figure and
cover tIle feet, in the manner of the
eighteenth century.
1t is not q gown for the type of
youth that we call flapper, or, as one
of the dashing young editors of the
day has termed it, pOulet la Ziegfeld.
The Graceful Long Skirt.
There is nothing startlingly new in
the gowns which will be worn during
the late summer and autumn, if the
prophecies of the experts come true.
They have been shown in America
ever SINCE January, and in a certain
blaze of Oriental splendOr they have
been worn by smart women at cere-
monial functions.
1t is not, however, the gorgeousness
of the Byzantine era that is to be re-
peated in the newer style of dressing
for the second half of the year 1917
Soft satins, brocades that have no
body, georgettes that look like net
chiffon that resembles tulle, and the
crepes of China that cling to the fig
ure, are the fabrics that will go toward
the making of the dignifed gown for
the serious epoch.
There are inky black gowns to be
worn, which are made Of georgette
that has no sheen.
There are gowns of silver gray
charmeuse that swirl and cling to the
figure from shoulder to floor. The
folds of the skirt are softly pushed
aside by the slippered foot, as the
wearer moves.
About all of these gowns which are
to come and which are beginning to
make their appearance among women
who dress well, there are no Ostenta-
tious ornaments, no sensuOus girdling
of the hips in the Oriental manner, no
faint reflection Of the bazaars of
Delhi.
The colors do not clash like symbols
of victory. There is nothing triumph
ant about their procession.
These are the clothes Of women
whose hours are given to war char
tiles and war relief whose leisure time
is given to reading literature that
keeps them abreast of the tremendous
movements on this planet, and whose
thoughts are turned not to Raging the
scale, but to the lines of khaki on the
western front.
Mind you, they are not poverty
stricken clothes. The American peo-
pie are in arms against unnecessary
saving and economy that means ruin
to others. But they are revolt from
what we have been wearing.
Still the Chinese Touch.
over from Paris, where those who
represent us are watching every twist
and turn in fashions, GENES the state
lment that the Chinese touch grows in