davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

sash that ties in the back. d built .iuts
complete accessory and sold 70 80
over any gown which needs to be en-
Iiyened and camoudaged.
The sinuous movement Of drapry
going from left to right or right -
left OF the figure is hot the only orisn-
tanzation Of fashion today. The mill
liners are dipping with both hands ints
the history of oriental head coverings,
ana few of the new hats are reminfo-
cent of the scenes from Bagdad as wen
as those coffee places which the French
soldiers frequent in the eastern posses
sions Of France
1t is possible that from this srac<
chapter Of military life the French d.
signers are getting good deal of orfan-
tai inspiration. There are thousands of
square miles of Frances possessions in
the orient, and her standing army hAa
now and then given to the designers In
Paris ideas for women's clothes. II In
possible that the fighting in much Of
this land today has started the modi-
fcation OF the hArem veil and the Dc
luxe edition of an eastern turbAn made
of colored velvet or satin.
There is a new kind OF restaurant hat
that looks as though IL might have bean
lifted from corner Of eastern life. II
is turban of tulle which 10 wounA
about the head somewhat In the man.
ner that Nine. Poiret winds her famous
headdress, and one end of IL passes
down over the lower part Of the face, 10
| wrapped about the chin and ears and
floats away to a pointed end that II
weighted with bouquet OF rossbuds.
Four years ago IL became the fashion
to wear bit of tulle draped about the
head and the lower part OF the face,
somewhat after the manner Of the II.
| nous portrait of that Louise Of Prussia
who Inundated herself before Napoleon
| for naught: but there was no spice Of
the oriental about that veil. whereas
this turban might belong to q woman
! of the east or a sheikh of the desert
The French women have substituted
| IL for hat with a veil, for they draw
the flmy tulle chin covering up over
| the face and sometimes catch IL across
| to the turban with tiny jeweled pin.
II presents new note in millinery.
| Once upon time women wore loose
head coverings in the evening. That
was before closed limousines and hair
nets. Such bits Of comfort and fnsry
have been discarded for years. but they
| have returned to fashion for some rea-
son. probably connected with the war
ana its economies. They ara made IN
| the shape OF hoods. some astonishingly
like Little Red Riding Hoods bonnef.
done in sealskin and scarlet or Italia1
| blue velvet.
Others are caps Of gathered tulle In
three or four colors. one layer super.
imposed on the other to build q RAIN
| bow foundation.
Again. others look like the Red cross
nurses cap. fastening at the back, with
broad scarfs OF velvet and fur that pro-
| tect the neck above the line OF the
evening wrap.
These hoods, taken with the oriental
turban. with its imitation Of q harem
| veil. are Significant of change in mil.
lfnery. At least. they present an allure
to the woman who is looking for some-
tning that 10 not a sailor hat made Of
black velvet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16
A Course in Lincoln.

From the st. Louis Globe Democrat.
A years study in colleges of the life
and writings of Lincoln is suggested by
a prominent jurist In Ohio as better
worth the time than giving it to the
campaigns of Caesar. the utterances of
Roman orators and the poetry of Vir-
gill The idea need not be treated
an one antagonistic to rea-
sonable knowledge OF the classics.
Lincoln has become an American clas-
wrote. is of SURPRISING interest to
Americans. They can open his biog-
raphy anywhere and read on with prof
1t and keenly enlisted interest. His
writings are examples OF the best Eng
fish. though without the least preten-
sion as such. Their purpose was to go
direct to the mark, and that they in
variably accomplished without attempt
at literary ornament. The beauty and
strength of diction were natural, and
could not be better. Young men in this
country could not find in their text
books wiser guide. philosopher and
friend. They must furnish the states
career of Lincoln how towering lead
er of the people is raised. and unself-
ishly raises himself, to the highest
place. the place that he can best all, as
If somehow he had been born for the
mission. with a latent power to i'm
press his peculiar fitness on the convic-
tons of his fellow countrymen.
A years training In a military camp
would be good for a young American.
So would a college year of Lincoln as a
part Of the educational work. The fine
quality Of his English, his nice appre-
hension of the chemistry of words, is
well illustrated in the changes he made
in the letter to England. drafted by
afoy. ,f Cfo&A -
Mason-slidell controversy reached its
most delicate stage.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

D., D. Lift. author Of The History
of the U. S. From the Compromise
of 1850 to the Final Restoration OF
Home Rule at the South in 1871"
With maps. New York: The Mac
milan Company.
HOW GERMANY DOES BUSINESS;
Chapters on Export and Finance
Methods. By DR.. Paul Pensac Gour-
witch. With preface by DR.. B. p.
Shatsky. New York: B. w. Huebsch.
THE HEART OF THE PURITAN; Se-
lections From Letters and Journals.
Edited by Elizabeth Deering Hans
com, Phi D., professor of English in
Smith College. New York: The Mac
milan Company.
SONGS FOR A LITTLE HOUSE. BY
CHRISTOPHER Morley. New York:
George H. Doran Company.
NAVIGATION. BY Harold Jacoby
Rutherford, professor of astronomy
in Columbia University. New York:
The Macmillan Company.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16
Ability as Capital.

from the new 10rk I1meS.
Commercial and financial circles in
this and other cities are full of in
stances demonstrating that ability is a
better and safer foundation for fortune
than money, and though the latter is
convenient enough for use by the able
man IN making what is rather mac
curately called his start. its lack en-.
titles him to no commiseration. and
rarely delays more than briefly his ad-
vancement toward the goal Of his aspi-
ration.
The young man with capital not ac-
cumulated by himself may or may not
be a success in business, but his money
will not be the determining factor in
his upward course. IL he does proceed
In that direction, while 1t is about az
likely as not to help him move tho
other way. should he be without the
capacities required for making money
for himself Nobody with both body
and brain well trained can truly be
called without capital, nor need the
condition OF pennilessnesstrouble either
himself or his friends. A thousand
paths are open to him. and he will
have pennies a-plenty, u not exactly
- soon - he pleasesb q leaat With no
8x0n& &pA1lNA - \
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

other. A dramatic treatment of an
altogether possible situation, and a
keen psychological study as well.
THE GIFT SUPREME. By George Al
Ian England, author Of 1.-THE Alibi."
etc. New York: George H. Doran
Company.
To give up ones own Iife-or even
to be sincerely willing to do this-in
order that some beloved person may
continue to live. this is generally ac-
love. In a more than commonly vicis-
sitous love story, Mr.. England here
makes use Of this test. He brings the
matter to happy issue, however, when
the young woman not only saves the
life OF her lover, but manages, robust
ly. to preserve her own as well. In
developing this story Of true love the
author sets the pair down In q pretty
complete confusion Of people and incl
dents. Around the two the tides of an
entire city circle in q concert of frus-
tration. People OF most diverse habit
and circumstance come together here
in perfect harmony of ill-intent. No
brand Of malice is too low, nor no
method too shady for use here. where
the successful man and the pure down.
and-outer unite against this innocent
pair. Such defects as the really in
teresting story has come from this
crowded setting. One cannot keep
holding in mind what they are all try
ing to do. 1t is not possible to frame
a whole live town and call it a picture.
nor to clap 1t between covers and call
it story. Mr.. England knows how to
make the lines of story. but he is
accessories OF that story.
AMARILLY IN LOVE. BY Belle X.
Mandates. With illustrations by
William Van Dresser. Boston:
Little. Brown & Co.
This latest chronicle Of Amarilly's
adventures in life is as fresh as the
breezes Of the country in which its
action takes place. The joyous little
heroine Of Clothesline alley is now a
school graduate who begins her grown
up years In the cheerful old farmhouse
into which the Jenkins family have re-
Gently moved. Having been educated
by her Mr.. Derry and developed by
time into sweet and captivatingly
pretty young woman, Amaril1y goes
the way of romance. but. before finding
1t, tries working in the city and even
exhilarating mystery is contributed by
a nameless boy whose father turns out
to be-but that would be telling the
story-which Amarillys readers would
like to learn for themselves. Among
the new friends of the family Is the
kins claims for her especial friend be-
cause she found him on the road. And
then. of course. there Is the Boarder
and Lily Rose. The book, in addition
to Its story charm, is ideally adapted
to the holiday gift season because of
its illustrations and for the picture of
the old farmhouse etched on the cover
OF sage green.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

per part Of the figure in long lines that
dropped from shoulder to hips. and:
crossing in front to tie in back, ended
in a narrow train which gave dignity
to a slim skirt.
gown of velvet and cloth Of jet to q
sweater, but among tho artistic set
this oblique movement has been worked
out in a knitted scarf which IL sub
stitute for sweater. 1t Is worn as the
Canadian soldiers wear it, crossing
over the front and back in obliQue lines.
with the long ends tucked through the
part that forms the belt in front and
dropping down with their fringe to ten
inches below the waist.
+
II you have not seen one Of these new
more graceful and out of the common
place they are than the knitted garment
of which most OF US are heartily weary.
unless it is intended for a man in the
trenches.
whenever the girdling of the hips be-
comes a first fashion. sashes leap up on
a high pinnacle and proclaim their pres
ense with trumpeting authority.
Throughout the ages. Sashes come and
go, much to the amusement and. inter-
est of women. especially those women
who see in accessories the most divert
ing part of fashionable apparel
Some minds work along the line of
adjuncts in clothes. rather than funda-
mentals. In every little group Of wom-
en- there is one. or prabably more. who
will burn the midnight oil to create or
attach new and fashionable accessories
to an old gown. In the addition OF a
sash. the placement Of a rose. the ap-
plication of bit Of jet, new cuffs or
. gold cord they ind their chief pleas
ure in clothes.
They are the women who keep scraps.
They haunt the bargain counters that
sell accessories. They delight in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16
BOOKS RECEIVED.

EAT AND GROW THIN CALENDAR,
1875 The Famous ~Mahdah" Menus.
BY Vance Thompson. New York: E.
P. Dutton & Go.
IMPRESSIONS CALENDAR. 1918. San
Francisco: Paul Elder q Co.
BELGIAN TOWERS Calendar for 1913.
Sketches by Roy Hilton. Quotations
and description by William Gorham
Rice New York: E. P. Dutton &
Co.
THE ARCTIC sTOWAwAYs. BY Dill
lon Wallace. author of Bobby of
the Labrador" etc. Illustrations by
Frank =. Schoonover Chicago: A.
C. McClurg & Co.
RAND-McNALLY WAR MAP OF THE
BMIT1sH FRONT, sfatesfc Map
ct the Battle-Ground In Belgium and
France. Ostend to st. Quentin.
ehovsiAg tie Eaxthest Advance -
1ha 0ee0nne n 1e1A anA 1ha Battle
L1ne - 1o15. Compiled from the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

aisles given over to trimming. They
know the arts of cleaning and pressing
and dipping into fresh dye. even though
ink They will tell you that all Of
their labor Is for the sake of economy.
It 10 not. It is q qualification of their
own desires. In their hearts they prefer
sign in embroidery to a homespun suit.
These women will have their hearts
delight this season, for the fundamen-
tails are few and the accessories many.
Camounage IL the word that has spread
over the planet, and it is a word that
no longer refers to war, but is forever
Incorporated in the language OF a peo-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

| with an introduction by Frank H
Vizetelly, Lift. D., LII. ID. New
York: Funk g. Wagnalls Company.
THE ORCHESTRAL INSTRUMENTS
AND WHAT THEY DOS Primer
for Concert-goers. By Daniel Greg
Org Mason. New York: The H. w.
Gray Company.
AIRY NoTHINGss Or. What You WIN.
BY George Gordon. New YORK:
Sturgis & Walton Company.
| OTHERS, An Anthology Of the New
Verse (1s17): Edited by aired
Knopf.
LEAGUE OF NATIONS; A Chapter i'm
the History Of the Movement. BY
Theodore Marburg. NJ. A.. LII D.,
formerly United States minister to
Belgium. New York: The Macmil-
Ian Company.
APPLIED MOTION STUDY; A CoIlec-
t1on Of Papers ON the Emcient Meth
Cd to Industrial Preparedness. BY
Frank B. Gilbreth. consulting man
agement engineer. etc, and L. M.
Gilbreth, Phi. D. New York: Sturgis
& Walton Company.
| THE ATTACK IN TRENCH WAR
FARE. BY Capt. Andre Laffargue.
1894 Infantry, French Army. Trans
lated by an onicer of infantry. New
York: D. Van Nostrand Company.
TRUE STORIES OF GREAT AMERI-
CANS-SAM HOUSTON. By George
s. Bryan. New York: The Macmil-
Ian Company.
| CAMPFIRE GIRLS AND MOUNT GREY
LOCK. BY Isabel Hornibrook. au-
thor Of Camp and Trail" etc. IL
Illustrated by John Goss. Boston:
Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company.
THE FOUNDATIONS OF NATIONAL
PROSPERITY Studies in the Con-
servation Of Permanent National
Resources. BY Richard T. Ely.
Ralph II. Hess. Charles X. Leith
and Thomas Nixon Carver. New
York: The Macmillan Company.
! NOTWITHSTANDING FOR BOYS, 1t Tells
the Boy Who Wants to Make Money
How to DO 1t and What to Do With
His Money After He Has Made 1t.
BY A. Frederick Collins, author Of
THE Book of wireless" etc IL
Illustrated by Virgil D. Collins. New
York: Dodd. Mead & Co.
A GARDEN OF REMEMBRANCE. By
James Terry White. New York:
James T. White & Co.
AMATEUR AND EDUCATIONAL ORA
MATICs. BY Evelyne billiard.
Theodore Mccormick and Kate ogle-
bay y, Indors.d by Educational xnnn ORA IRA.
Macmillan Company.
THE boys BOOK OF MOUNTED Po-
LICE. By Irving Crump, author of
! Tho Boys Book of Firemen." etc.
With Illustrations. New York: Dodd.
Mead & Co.
ABE MARTINS BACK-COUNTRY SAY
INGs. Compiled from the Indian
apolfs News and revised and edited
by the author. indianapolis: Abe
Martin Publishing COMPANY,
DEMOCRATIC IDEALS, A Memorial
Sketch OF Clara b. Colby. Edited
by Olympia Brown. president Of the
Federal Suffrage Association. Pub
lished by the association.
THE RED FLOWERS Pesms written
D. c. L (Oxon). New York: Charles
Scrfbner's Sons
FROM MONTREAL TO why RIDGE
AND HEYONDs The Correspondence
04 LAeut. OXFORD Almsa Wells, b.
b. q. f., November. 1016-ApriI, 1917.
Edited by o. c. s. Wallace, d. D.,
LII. D. New York: George H. Doran
Company.
MY GERMAN CORRESPONDENCE,
ity for the War and for the Method
81 fts Conduct. Being . Letter From
. German Professor. Together with
. Reply and Foreword. BY Prof,
: Douglas W. johnson, Columbia Uni
versity. New York city. author Of
THE Peril Of Prussianism." New
York: George 81. Doran Company.
u1Gx0nY on TuU CIVIL war. 49,
1Qo6s BY James Ford RhodA& LIZ
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16
II HOAN" III
THE NECK.

the American Indian silhouette with
that of old Egypt. the Egypt of That's.
with straight, translucent draperies ana
pleated skirts that sweep the feet. In
connection with the American Indian
came the attempt to make 1t more
graceful for the average woman by i'm
posing upon it q bit of the Greek move
ment in fabric, but the woman who
looks best in the Indian silhouette can
not touch the Greek one. which calls
for breadth and thickness.
1t is strange that the orientals use
the bias movement in drapery to dis
play their curves, while the modern
in order to hide whatever flesh she may
not have been able to eliminate from
her frame.
Every one knows that the so-called
gypsy sash, which has been taken from
the Rumanian vagabonds, is apt to IN
crease the size appearance OF the hips,
and yet it has come into fashion as
quickly as thundershower comes up
in August.
There is a strong belief among the
designers that this Rumanian hip Cir
die. which is as old as Nineveh and
Tyre, will not prove popular. but all
the designers believe that the bias
movement, which Is creeping into all
the fashions and which expresses itself
in long, oblique lines. will soon take
the place Of the straight, Indian and
Alexandrian silhouette.
The dressmakers. who are trying to
achieve something new in evening
gowns. in order to keep women in
terested in this form Of apparel. have
used this oblique movement to accom-
plish something quite out OF the COM
monplace.
on q black velvet frock this new sill
houette was given by using a broad
piece Of cloth Of jet studded with rows
OF rhinestones. which wrapped the up
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

pie. A new sash is camoufiage on an
old gown, and az such it plays an i'm
Tportant part in the development of this
seasons clothes.
X 4
These sashes have the bias movement;
they girdle the hips in oblique lines,
they tie at the side: they form an
apology for a hustle in the back; they
are now in front, in the primitive fash
ion: they are fringed. embroidered, stem
ciled or made OF Batik.
They are the connecting link between
a blouse Of one kind and a skirt Of an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

latest military maps Of the army
STATS in Washington, London and
Paris and.from other official sources.
Showing in minute detail the cities,
towns and villages. forts and forth
fed places, railroads and highways.
rivers and canals. the forests and
the physical and political features OF
the regions. Chicago: Rand. Nc
Nally & Co.
RAND-McNALLY WAR MAP OF THE
FRENCH FRONT Northern Sec
tiOn) IA Strategic Map of the Battle
ground in France from st. Quentin
to st. Mihiel, etc. Chicago: Rand,
McNaily & Co.
THE GOSPEL OF BUDDAH. Compiled
from ancient records by Paul Carus.
illustrated by O. Kopet5ky. Chi
cago: The Open Court Publishing
Company.
THE BIBLE IN ENGLISH LITERA-
TURE. BY Edgar Whitaker Work.
D. D.. author of Tho Fascination
OF the Book" etc. New York:
Fleming n. Revell Company.
THE BoRzOI PLAYS. v-HADDA
PADDA, A Drama In Four Acts.
Translated by Sadie Luise Peller
from the Icelandic OF Godmundur
Brandes New York: Alfred A.
Knopf.
AND THE CAPTAIN ANSWERED. By
Octave Thanet, author OF THE Man
of the Hour" etc Indianapolis:
The Bobbs-Merrill Company.
WITH THE CoLORs, Songs of the
American Service. By Everard Jack
Appleton, author of The Quiet
Courage" Cincinnati: Stewart &
BEATING 'EM TO IT; Or. The Sultan
nish. Illustrations by Alfred J.
Frueh. New York: Alfred A. Knopf.
AMERICAN SOLDIERS AND SAILORS
piled by Mary Parker Converse.
New York: e. P. Dutton Company.
THE BOYS BOOK OF SUBMARINES.
By A. Frederick Collins, author Of
"Inventing for Boys" and Virgil D.
Collins. author Of "A Working Alge-
bra" etc. With numerous illustra-
tons and diagrams. New York:
Frederick A. Stokes Company
GOLD MUST BE TRIED BY FIRE. By
THE Shepherd Of the North" etc.
New York: The Macmillan Com
pany.
PATRIOTISM, National and Interna-
tiOnal. An essay. BY Sir Charles
Waidstein.. New York: Longmans,
Green Co.
FEMINIsM. By correa Moylan Walsh
New York: Sturgis & Walton Com
pany.
THE REVIVED CYNIC'S CALENDAR.
By Ethel Watts Mumford, oliver
HEREFORD and Addison Miner. San
Francisco: Paul Elder & Co.
THE WONDER OF WAR IN THE AIR.
BY Francis Roit-Wheeler. author Of
~. S. Service Series" with forty
two illustrations from war photo
graphs and sketches. Boston: 10th
rop. Lee & Shepard Company.
SOCIALISM. BY Correa Moylan Walsh.
New York: Sturgis & walton Com
pany.
THE CLIMAX OF CIVILIZATION. BY
Correa Moylan Walsh. New York:
'sturgis & Walton Company.
LUsTRA, with Earlier Poems. Nv Ezra
Pound. New York: Alfred A.
Knopf.
U. 8. SERVICE SERIEs-THE BOY
WITH THE U. 3. WEATHER MAN.
BY Francis Rolt-Wheeier. with
seventy-two Illustrations from pho-
tographs. Boston: Lothrop, Lee &
Shepard Company.
FIFTEEN THolUsAND usrry1.
PHRASES A Practical Handhook Of
Pertinent Expressions, Strikine slim
lies. Literary, Commercial, Conver.
sattonai and OratoEical Terms, for
the EmbellfsAment u SpeecK ana
Literature. and the lmprcyement Of
the Vocabulary ~ Those Persons
Who 6eaas Write MI anank Bne-
Nah. by Granville KlAiser. nuthoR
OF How to Speak Ii Public, etc,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16
.Fads and Fancies.

Apron effects are prominent amone
the new dresses.
Sport dresses are worn with knittea
sleeveless jackets. 3
Black. brown and taupe arc the pre-
ferred colors for wells.
A coat Of green velvet trimmed with
kolinsky Is attractive.
Long coats trimmed with fur usually
have bright Innings.
Fringes for evening vraps are made
Of silk or slashed ciothS
Long scarfs Of wool mufiie the throat
Of fashionable women.
Many of the new dresses have skirts
that simulate trousers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

yer lace, which has come into high
fashion this winter. in keeping with the
fact that necessities are difficult to OBJ
tain, but luxuries easy. You may not
be able to buy wooden undergarment,
but you can wear a silver lace apron.
This apron, with it's bib. collar and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-12-16

other, and they soften and make har-
monious the joining Of these two oppos-
ing garments.
Sometimes they have btbs ana aprons
attached to the front and then they be-
come sashes de luxe. Usually. these
peasant accessories are made OF old sill