Evening star., 1917-11-11
rn Gowns SUGGESTED by Famous Operate Roles

around the body IN a primitive fashion.
Certain dyes were exploited because
there were no others to be had. Fringed
fabrics were introduced because applied
ornamentation was costly and the sup
ply was vastly decreased from that OF
former days.
Immense topcoats with interlinings
were made by the dozens because the
French women were compelled to walk
through a lack OF taxicabs. and the
have started on system OF economy
which would compel them to walk in
stead Of paying money for taxis.
Voluminous peltry was applied to all
costumes because Of the intense cold on
both continents last winter and because
Of the scarcity of coal in Paris last
January and the promise Of 1t in this
country for this winter.
The Paris designers have given all
kinds of anecdotal reasons for their
gowns. and some of the American dress
makers who are not giving. to either
are repeating the French talk in an in
teresting way.
The most dominant fashion produced
this winter is the garment that slips on
over the head and has pieces Of the ma
terial to tie 1t into place. This Is quite
as primitive as in days when Melisande
lived, loved and died.
A year ago the reporters who study
clothes intently and with an inside
knowledge of scarcity OF certain ma
terials prophesied that the near future
would bring about womaH's clothes
that were fashioned 10 be adjusted
without fasteners. France sent up
cut in two pieces and tied around the
hips by a sash that was a bit of the
material of the front width. and evi-
IDENTIFY these trial balloons proved that
the air was safe for the sending out OF
dozens of such frocks
The Americans have accepted them in
high glee. It is a novelty that tickles
the mind Of the novelty hunting Anert-
can esI,,Sonn,r. women: When you see group OF
talking and gesticulating. pulling out
pieces of a frock here and there and
turning themselves around as on a
each explaining to the other how tho
frock Is adjusted without a hook and
eye. without button and without a loop.
The new coat suits have caught tho
fever. and some of the best are adjusted
with merely a loop of military braid
run through buttonhole and tied back
on itself.
The smartest afternoon gowns have
large buttonholes from neck to waist,
through which are. run pieces of braid
or picot-edged ribbon tying the two
fronts together.
No woman who likes puzzles and who
fail to be Interested in this game. She
can wear q new gown with a new kind
OF fastening and crow over her neigh
bors as though she had taken in the
loan. 1t may develop into pastime II
the interest and excitement in this kind
Of clothing keep up.
At the moment OF writing, our gov
A. 49,
amount of material to- be used in each
gown Germany and France have both
done this, and those who are In Paris
say that the French dressmakers have
the decree. A quantity of material In Q
gown has never appealed to a French
designer, and with the government be-
hind the elimination Of fabrics. each Of
originality Of conception and treatment
In achieving an artistic result with Q
very few meters of cloth.
A few Of the American clothes which
houette was thoroughly accepted have
taken their place a little behind the
front row Of fashions because they look
bunglesome. Here is the French sill
have adopted it: A slim underskirt
made in one piece that runs from the
collarbone nearly to the ankle in a
| street frock. and from bust to within
SIX lICueS Oh the dHhl0 III an evening
gown. 1t is merely the skeleton Of the
gown, but on 1t are draped the few re-
naming yards of fabric that are al
lowed to complete the work.
Therefore, 1t is quite fashionable to
use transparent material for the after
noon and evening, in order to show the
slim little slip beneath. It is not neces-
| sary that the transparent fabric used
over this slip should be cut OF to corre-
spond. It may rise to the shoulders and
drop to the instep, and in that very
alluring transparency you get the East
Indian effect.
The statement may be taken as au.
thoritative that whatever gown has a
gathered drop skirt is out Of the fash.
ion. You may gather the top material,
but the lining must be slim and cut
| though 1t is not drawn in at the waist.
ing quarters. It does not do to shift
az 70 1lrin Tor rSo.