davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30

And the woman herself realizes that AT any
moment there may be shortage of fabric for
her apparel, and she does not want TO spend
money, even if it is not large amount, for
clothes that are made up Of badly woven, badly
dyed materials that last only butterfly hour.
This demand for good fabric is not new. It
is the fundamental instinct of women in all
times of national deprivation and economy to
grasp at what is durable.
We need not fear for the fashions in he
hold that this instinct will have on women. In
dividuality of dress, a vast amount Of altera-
ton. the employment Of thousands of seam
stresses will be demanded by the women who
buy clothes and it may be--but of that | am
not competent to write-that the mills them
selves and the vast wholesale network of trade
in cheap clothes in this country will be re-
leved of a stupendous effort to please va
rietv of women. sometimes at a loss to them
selves.
Every one has to face this clothes situation
during the war with a spirit Of patriotism and
eager endeavor to do the greatest good TO the
greatest number This has confronted every
generation of women whose husbands have
cone to war, but there is a brand new situa-
ton injected into this war, and it is the domi-
nant one concerning apparel.
1t is this: the earning capacity Of the
women Of the nations involved in the war rs
without precedent in the history of the planet.
Whether or not it was the psychological mo-
ment for women to rush forward like the tre-
mendous turn of the tide and flood all the
places where money is TO be made is not for
4 mere reporter TO say. 1t is too vast move
ment in the history of the world to be encom-
passed in a sentence or a column, but the fact
is present in the calculations Of every one who
has something to sell.
If women who have never had money to
spend will be able TO make a salary such as q
man has to support a family, are they going to
save it? They are not. They are going to
spend it, and they are going to spend it on
the things they have always desired. That is
why seaskin sacks and ostrich feathers have
been sold in London for two years to women
who have always worn calico wrappers and
knitted shawls.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30
Draperies Are Voluminous,
But Foundations Scanty

There is really little perceptible difference
for January and those that have prevailed
since September.
There is no appeal to be careful with drap-
cry, and as it can be made of tulle, chiffon,
Georgette crepe and net of all weaves, there
is a disposition for evening wraps and gowns
TO resolve themselves into floating clouds, in
order to hide the fact that the foundation of
the frock or the wrap is made of a scanty
amount of material and clings closely to the
figure.
On the new clothes there is less embroidery
than has prevailed for four years. splendid
piece of it will be made as the lower part Of
bodice which has bib and half sleeves Of
chiffon and again it will touch up an Oriental
sash which swathes the waistline, but it is not
massed over the surface of clothes as it was
There is a tendency TO go back to the old
handiwork known as cut-out embroidery. We
saw the beginning Of this movement last sum-
mer in coored linen frocks, and we shall prob
ably see more of i. at Palm Beach in Febru-
airy. Cloth, velvet ard tatfeta are row cut out
by a stamping process in ornate designs and
the edges Of these are carelessly overwhipped
with silk thread.
While there is some embroidery and worsted
threads, the idea is taboo when carried out in
a lavish way. 1t is said that there are so
many odds and ends left over from worsted
yarn. which are not needed by the linitters,
that it is quite simple and not unpatriotic TO
use them up in all manner Of ornamentation,
and so when one sees a gown that is flecked
with colored wool and has spashing embroid-
cry of it Mt sleeves and belt there is no use
of getting hysterical over it. The pieces that
20 to make il can be picked from the waste
basket.
The dressmakers seem 10 prefer the lavish
use Of braid to any other kind of applied orna
mentation. The wide, closely woven variety
known as Hercules and the tiny thread known
as soutache are both splashed over clothes with
generous hand. The extra WIDE white Her
cules braid is used for a rolling collar, cuffs
and a broad belt on gowns Of black and gray
satin, as well as on frocks Of serge and deeply
colored woollen fabrics.
There seems TO be no scarcity Of metallic
tissue and silver lace in the hands Of dress
makers and on the shelves Of the shops. They
are probably some Of the luxuries that have
replaced necessities.
There are also several hundred yards Of
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30

y AMERICAN buyer living in New
N York who represents a link Of retail
n shops that stretch across the continent
and who is said to have control over $685.
100000 a year for the purchase Of women's
clothes should be a good authority on the buy
ing power Of the country. He is. He has gone
over the entire situation as it confronts US,
with the new year and a great war. Here
is what he says:
"Thc facts and figures which | have show
that the women in the country have more
money to-cay than ever before in our history.
Hundreds of thousands of these women will be
in financial position TO buy the kind Of clothes
they have always wanted, which is of the bet
ter grades and garments better than they have
ever worn"
Now, mind you, this is the statement of
man who represents that vast merchandise
which we find outside Of the exclusive dress
makers and high-priced shops. lie knows
what the women throughout the country de
sire TO buN and when he makes the statement
that the demand for cheap fabrics and shoddy
materials j. beginning TO wane he represents
a most interesting phase Of commercial activity.
The great nations which make women's
clothes through the process of immense organ
izations have flooded the world with cheap and
pershable apparel. They have catered TO
desire on the part of hundreds of thousands OF
women 20 bay what is smart and new rather
than what Is durable
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30

black and silver and black and gold brocades.
They were very expensive last year and they
remain high in price, but they are used by
the exclusive designers as an offset to the
sombreness of too much dull velvet and satin.
They are particularly well used in evening
wraps and gowns, but one has grown tired of
these fabrics in millinery. The Russian hats
which lit the head and flare outward, depend
ing on their shape and not their trimming for
their price and beauty have been made of this
metallic brocade all winter and were so pon,
ularly worn that the majority of women are
weary Of the stye.
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30

shelves of the shops given over 10 this fabrIe
is Of an agreeable color, but it is not always De
coming, and as there is great deal Of home
dyeing going on these days the beige is dippea
into scarlet, blue or green eoloring matter az
the risk of the dyer and comes out in orh''
liant winter shade for the young girl who CO.'S
not like negative tones.
Scarlet jersey cloth is particularly favorea
by the dressmakers, as il can be eonDinss
with white and black without detriment 70 "
eoloring of the girls face. Dark blue Is az
fashionable, and there is certain shsae "
green which has something Of the color Oh ~.
linden leaf in il and which has peeu""'
charm on the youthful figure that We hs
usually associated with that dull tone OF o"s
nese blue which was so prevalent last SUM-
mar. =
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30
(Above) HAT MADE FROM ODDS
AND ENDS

that will make the figure graceful and we'll
clothed.
Silk jersey is being offered on every side by
the French designers, as well as by the dress
makers and shops over here, as a substitute
for the early spring fabrics that have wool in
them.
The persistency of this jersey cloth as a
leading fashion, even though it was taboo last
summer because Of its commonplace cheapness,
opens up new channel of schoolgirls frocks
that every mother is eager to accept.
Tall, slm awkward girls Of fifteen are not
easily clothed; they require certain lines and
draperies that the more mature and firmly
knit body does not need They can stand COM
binations OF materials better than the figure
that has reached the age where a certain
thickness and an ungovernable rotundity ap-
proach.
Therefore the jersey cloth, with it's thread
of wool and its surface that does not spot cas-
lily, docs not wrinkle ct all and sheds dust il
Incorporated in the costumery of youngsters
and offered by the smart dressmakers who
cater almost exclusively TO the schoolgirl seq
ment of society.
Beige jersey cloth. which rather fills the
New-York tribune., 1917-12-30
TRENCH MUFFLER

In spending your money on clothes, coop
crate with the designers by indorsing the slim
silhouette, the short jacket and the elimination
of as much wool as possible from costume.
For the rest, you can spend whatever money
you feel you can afford. Remember that it IS
not extravaganza, but a form Of charity, to
keep this money moving so that it reaches to
the uttermost corners Of society where women
and children are gathered TO make a living
wage.
There is no diminution in the brilliancy OF
fashions. Both France and America are working
hard to assist the government to stimulate
women's desire for clothes. The new things
which have been put out in the shops, some of
which came from Paris and others which have
been designed in this country, show straight
line that is charitably kept from attenuation
by a cascade at the side of the skirt, swirl
ing design in braid, a great sash weighted
with ornament. This is pure camouflage.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25

the appearance of his uniform by ram
ming them into his pockets. He should
not wear his hat on. the side of his
head, but straight. IF the weather is
warm, the prescribed uniform will al
low a man to appear in his shirt, with
or without black necktie, according
to whether he is on field service)
The soldiers appearance when he
meets an officer is important not only
in the matter of clothes, but in the
manner of his salute. He should never
salute an officer with a pipe, cigar, or
cigarette in his mouth. He should re-
move the pipe or cigar, and, while
holding it inconspicuously at his side
with the left hand, salute properly
with the right. He should never chew
gum while saluting. He should never
salute with one hand in his pocket. In
fact, whenever a soldier meets an Off
Ger and salutes, he should feel that he
is under inspection, as, to tell the
truth, he is, for if there is a detail
about his uniform or department which
is irregular, the sharp eyes of the
officer will detect it.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
InspirationaI Singing.

How is it that we listen with such
pleasure to certain singers and with
indifference to others? Those in the
second category frequently have finer
voices, and their art is apparent, but
the mystic something is absent. The
vocal technic may be perfect, and in
tonation and pronunciation all that
can be desired, but if that essential
personal magnetism is not displayed,
the effect on the audience is small.
Some singers show their training,
these possess what we call made
voices" not that we in any way dis
parage training, success is impossible
without it, but the real artist conceals
this, in the higher art of interpreta-
ton, by becoming so absorbed and en-
crossed in the spirit of the song, that
the technical side of singing is over
Swallowed and lost, in the fascination
of hearing the words brought to life
and painted with a simplicity that Is
understood by all who hear.-Ex-
change.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
THE SOLDIERS. PERSONAL AP-
PEARANCE.

One of the most important phases of
sonal appearance.
A soldier in camp or in barracks
should keep himself spick and span. He
should scrub himself in daily shower,
if showers are available, shave infal-
libby, keep his uniform brushed and
his shoes polished.
Naturally drill and other military
duties, even in camp, do not enable him
to remain altogether immaculate, for
that would interfere with his work.
But, while the day of the "kid-glove
soldier is passed, the constant atten-
ton to cleanliness will overcome the
CRIME which attaches to the daily rou-
tine and will give the general appear
ance of neatness. Dust which has set
tied on the uniform in a drill has a
look which differs distinctly from a
large and indelible stain. In the same
way, faces and hands which are nor
mally clean reveal this fact even If
temporarily soiled whereas, faces and
hands which are habitually dirty can
not give a wholly clean impression
even when washed.
The habit of cleanliness in the sol
der will become second nature, if he
is not an instructive slOven. He will
find that he is not comfortable in the
regimental street or on the parade
ground unless he is neat-wholly aside
from the fact that his officers will re-
uuire 1t. He will soon realize that an
unshaved man in camp looks even
worse than in an ofice-that man
whose hair is not kept closely cut has
a more ragged appearance in uni
form than in civilians clothes.
When outside of quarters or his i'm
mediate company street, the soldiers
uniform should at all times be but
toned. The buttons are part of the
uniform, and as such, should be cor
rectly utilized. For a man to go out
into the regimental street or parade
ground with his coat hanging open and
his hands in his pockets, or even one
or two buttons unfastened, like front
teeth missing from the mouth, is mex
cusable. A man should go forth only
when scrupulOusly buttoned and shoes
securely tied, leggings correctly adj
iusted and fastened. His hands should
fall at his side In any easy, soldierly
fashion. and he should not diSarrange
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
THINGS WORTH KNOWING
1t takes 5000 bees to weigh a pounds

1t takes 5000 bees to weigh pound.|
The human voice is produced by A
different muscles.
The Japanese raise roosters with
tails u feet long.
1t takes about four acres to feed
goat, according to a government rec
ord
More than forty-five thousand clerks
in England have been replaced by
women.
One farm of 40 acres in California
is devoted almost entirely to the grow
ing of violets.
A New York club has an indoor golf
course on which many spirited contests
have been held.
During the last two years and half
approximately thirty million men have
been withdrawn from their usual occu-
patiOns in Europe.
The Norwegian storthing has passed
a measure which interferes with the
development of the cOuntry's water
falls by others than natives.
It is estimated by the National Auto
mobile Chamber of Commerce that
100000 automobiles were manufac-
tured in 1916, valued at $810,000,000.
Domestic sales of incandescent
lamps in 1916 were 145,000,O00, which
is 81 per cent, or 35,000,000 lamps
greater than 1915 sales. In addition,
over 100000 incandescent lamps were
exported in 1916, making total sales
for last year of 154,000,000 lamps, in
comparison with 100000, the total
number of sales that was recorded In
1915.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
THE SOLDIERS HEALTH AND
HOW HE CAN PROTECT 1T.

No duty of the soldier is more i'm
portant than the care of his health.
A sick soldier is worse than no SOL
der. Not only is he a dead weight,
but he requires the services of other
men in taking care of him. A COM
pany which has 20 sick men would
be better off if it were actually 20
men short of its quota, because the
20 sick men are of no military value
and put an extra drain upon the regi-
mental organization. Much, if not
most, sickness is avoidable, with. prop
er sanitary and medical precautions,
and much of it, certainly, may be
mans own fault.
The matter Of health is especially
important to the new soldier, since
those whose lives have been sedentary
are exceedingly susceptible to illness
when they first start to live under
camp conditions. The change of food,
change of surroundings, change of air,
md change of habits are often too
revolutionary for the system all at
once, unless the soldier pays particu-
lar attention to his health.
The stomach, especially in warm
weather, is the principal seat of illness,
and it is here that the new soldier has
his fate-his efficiency as a soldier and
his usefulness to the command-large-
ly in his own hands. If, before he is
well seasoned in camp, he eats be-
tween meals; if he eats food not set
before him at mess-especially the
most tempting pies and cakes and
cream-puffs from home; if he hangs
about the canteen buying candy, nuts
or cookies, he is almost certainly des-
tined to be ill., And such illness may
be no trivial matter, at that, since it
may start a whole train of disorders,
from cramps to dysentery. The ex-
tent IF the illness will probably depend
upon the degree of the new soldiers
vitality, that is, his capacity to re-
sist it.
Another prolific source of illness may
be in what q man drinks. Alcohol in
every form should be avoided; a glass
of beer may disturb the whole diges-
tive organization. And the dyed fluids
sold at the pop shacks" at the
edge of the camp are to be severely
Stunned. They are responsible for
much of the work which devolves upon
army surgeons. They often are poison
Gus to the system, and at best are con-
ducive of indispositiOn.
The one way in which the young sol
der keeps himself in health, except
for circumstances which are beyond
his control, is by his care of the body
and it's habits. If he is always clean,
his pores function properly and throw
off the wastes; if he keeps the body
well clothed, that is, protected against
the weather, he will not catch cold and
the pores will not therefore become
clogged and cease to work. He should
keep his lungs filed with fresh air.
He should keep the body thoroughly
exercised, but without exhaustion, for
exhaustion lowers the vitality and the
consequent resistance to disease. For
the same reason, he should keep the
body refreshed by sufficient amount
of sleep.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
Artists STRANGE Pets.

Rossetti's garden at Queens House,
Cheyne Walk, London, harbored some
strange pets during the poet-painter
tenancy. Among these was a white
bull bought, as one of his friends re-
lates, because it had eyes like Mrs.
William Morris. "Rossetti tethered it
on the lawn of his home in Chelsea.
Soon there was no lawn left-Only the
bull. He invited people to meet it,
and heaped favors on it until it kicked
everything to pieces, when he reluc-
family got rid of It." Subsequently deni-
zens of the Cheyne Walk garden in
Guided vombats, white peacocks and
armadilfoS.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
SELFHELPS for the
NEW SOLDIER
BY United States Army Officer
THE NECESSITY OF GOING OVER
DETAILS.
Copyright, 1917, by the Wheeler Syndicate, Inc,

While allowing the difficult details
of squad movements to sink into his
mind, the new soldier would do well
Mt this point to look back over the
ground he has traversed. He should
refresh his mind, so far as necessary,
upon what he has previously learned,
and he will at once discover q differ
ence between his present grasp of
military facts and their requirements.
The more he learns, the more reason
able, necessary and Illuminating be-
comes that which he has already
learned.
For example, the new soldier who
has been taught how to execute
squad right" does not need the same
amount of explanation for the neces-
Sity of discipline and obedience as at
the beginning. He realizes by this
time that no squad movement would
be possible unless each individual
were subject and responsive to dis
cipline. He does not have to be taught
the reason for learning to stand prop
erly, since he sees that no squad could
come to the position of attention and
dress it's line in practical military
fashion unless each individual first
came to attention. This does not
mean that the new soldier-and even
the partially trained soldier-will not
find it necessary again and again to go
over the details of how to perfect him
self in these essentials; but it is doubt
full whether he would hereafter have
to be told why.
He has learned how to stand, how
to step forward, backward, sideways,
the half-step-and to mark time. He
has learned how to face in any direc-
tion-right face, left face, about face,
and half face, which creates the prop
er angle for the oblique march. He
has learned how to start the Forward
MARCH," how to stop-the
HALT, in two counts; how to execute
the commands altering the direction of
March.
He has been instructed in some Of
the elementary military courtesies,
such as the all-important salute, and
uC lCdl LIEU LAO way LII WuICh GULF
mands are given. He has by this time
come to lean on the peremptOry COM
mand as necessity and through this
his mind and muscles are automatically
made ready, in time, for the COM
mand of execution. With the eXcep-
ton of few single commands, such as
"fall in," Eat ease" and "rest"-a
special class-he will find that his
faculties depend upon the preliminary
notification of what they are to do
in order to do them precisely at the
moment of performance.
All this will have become clear to
the new soldier if he has familiarized
himself with the drill as far as the
point of squad movements. He will
find that his muscles would subcon-
sciously resist command of execution,
without the preparatory notice of what
is expected of them. This affords them
a chance to gather themselves into
balance for the most effective dis
charge of the command, and this bal
ance, operating subconsciously, is a
big factor in the making of the good
soldier.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
LYDIA CRAVEN SURPRISES HER FATHER MAKING LOVE
TO ANOTHER WoMAN-THERE is EMBARRASSMENT.
BUT LYDIA MAKES TWO REAL FRIENDS

sYNoPslsA welbred Englshwoman and sus-
picous finds boards
erpoo to New York. that her
staff fascinating wealthy sixty years
The girl herself
America to meet her father Luc puzzles Beggar
is vastly find
necklace which
viousy and the Ouon private de-
board Lucy dressing
mysterious between two
Merrees wealthy Mrs Beg
garstaf whom Lucy has
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
THOUGHTS

Every misery one misses Is a new
blessing.
By persuading others we convince
ourselves.
The most Jealous are not always
the wisest.
Worth makes the man and want Of
it the fellow.
What man can do well is his great
est ornament.
The world is his who can see through
its pretensiOn.
The society of women is the element
OF good manners.
We may despise the world, but we
cannot do without it.
A very small bit of religion will
make a good-sized cloak.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
WORDS OF WISDOM

A man who takes offense
makes a poor selection.
A genius Is a man who man
ages to live without working.
A mans idea of comfort sell
dom jibes with that of his wife.
Most of the things you dis .
cover are secondhand discov- :
cries. .
Even If some things refuse to .
go your way there are other
things. d.
Money doesn't always lead to .
happiness, but it helps mate .
rally in the search.
When a man has nothing tC
lose he delights in making other
people take chances.
An amateur chauffeur doesn't
always have a controlling inter-
est in his automobile.
. -. 4. q 4. -. 8 q. q.
Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1917-07-25
Do you believe that Thaddeus
Craven is an honest man? And
does il occur to you that he may
try to get rid of Lydia in order
to insure the success of his
pro jects-whatever they may be?
CTO BE CoNTINUED)
Easily Changed.

rs your. portable garage satisfac-
tory?"
'Oh, yes" replied the suburban
dweIler, sit suits me very well and I'm
glad for my wife's sake that I bought
the portable kind"
"Why so?"
ssShe's had it moved half dozen
times because she didn't think 1t looked
we'll from the street"