The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-07-22

ed With the material and fastened with a
 great silver medieval buckle, was ad-
 vanced on the golf fields of this coun-
 try and has become far more fashion able garment than the sweater.
 The introduction of Chinese sleeve less jacket made of dull-colored satin embroidered in colored dragons, and worn over frock of white black or beige voile was the experiment of a woman who is too well dressed not to show that much of her activities are in the direc- tion of choosing clothes. For the same axiom that Alexander the Great used toward his son when he said that the ability to play the flute perfectly ar- gued nlisspent life is applicable to the woman who dresses to perfection on all occasions. Her life may not be misspent frcm her own point of view or from that of the dressmakers and dress reporters but in the last analysis the public will think it is.
 Another experiment of the American women, which could not have it's source in Paris is the universal use of inn mense garden hats trimmed with bril- liantly colored flowers, as a part of city apparel. The American world is quite used to the great hat of straw in coun- try gardens on beaches and on the benches of athletic fields, but this is first summer that women in great cen ters of activity have worn the so-caued country hats on the street to the restau rants and for all manner of social life.
 Their popularity has kept back the usual wave of black velvet hats which rushes over us the middle of July. Paris may launch it's velvet hats on August 1. according to tradition, but the beaches of Deauville will not see much of a fashion parade this year and the French world will be more interested in the type of dressing gown that is comfortable for its wounded soldiers taking the sunshine at that once ultrafashionabIe aed ex- pensive resort
 All the world has been in the hah;t of gathering there the first of August to see the races. This season, the cables say that few smart groups will go down as usual and the dressmaker will ex- ploit some new clothes, but there is no chance for the supreme display that took place when France was at its height of pleasure making.
 NEW KINDS OF WAISTCOATS
 Another individuality which has been brought out, is the waistcoat of checked silk or cotton with round, yoke col lar of itself, also a cravat finished in a sailors loop with two ends.
 Time was when We always considered it necessary to wear an entire shirtwaist under coat. Today since good taste de- mands that we do not sit in public in our shirtsleeves, the neckwear people have reaped a harvest through tn. various kinds of sleeveless bodices which they have invented to go under a coat as substitute for a blouse Organdy, chif- ion and white muslin in various weaves are conventional fabrics to use for these fronts that allow the coat to be unbut- toned, if not removed.
 But the new note is the departure from the white to the checked fabrics. A new colored jersey suit carries waistcoat made of heliotrope and white checked taffeta. A dark blue serge carries a waist coat of blue and white checked ging- ham. A natural colored pongee coat suit has front of geranium red and yellow checks. Black and white ginghams of taffeta is used for the full waistcoat of an oyster white Japanese silk suit
 These little garments are really sleeve less blouses; they're not even first cous- ms to the long. tight-fltting. Louis XVI which the French have put into the topcoats and circular capes for mo- Loring, They are attached to an elastic band that goes around the waist and are UP the front with pearl or col