davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

bered by the woman who dresses we'll as famous pitchers curves are remem- bered by baseball fan.
 And these women, who watch the de- velopment of line in clothes more than the introduction of new colors or fabrics. are now interested in that Oriental move ment which is trailing over the horizon and which we frequently call bias.
 The world has always accredited the Orient with the lines that goes across and around the figure. The primitive peoples are supposed to have wrapped their clothes about them for centuries, and the sesuousness of the east is sup posed to be the origin of this bias movement of fabric on the female figure, It is supposed to be more alluring than the straight line. It is said to give a more subtle movement to the curves of the natural figure than any other kind of fabric movement.
 The straight line conceals; the bias line partly reveals The American Indian is probably the only great primitive who kept to the straight line in costumery, as if it were done in accordance with the Indian physical framework.
 Recently the designers haveblended the American Indian silhouette with that of the Egypt, old Egypt of Thais, with straight. translucent draperies and pleated skirts that sweep the feet. In connection with the American Indian sil- houette, as a follower of it, there came the attempt to make it more grace full for the average woman by impos- ing upon it bit of the Greek movement n fabric, but the woman who looks best in the Indian silhouette cannot touch the Greek one, which calls for breadth and thickness.
 It is strange that the Orientals use the bias movement in drapery to display their curves, while the modern American
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

These women will have their hearts delight this season, for the funda- mentals are few and the accessories many. Camouflage is the word that has spread over the planet, and 1t is word that no longer refers to war, but Is forever incorporated in the language of people A new sash is camouflage on an old gown, and as such it plays an important part in the development of this seasons clothes
 These sashes have the bias movement they girdle the hips in oblidue lNes they tie at the side; they form an apol- ogy for bustle in the back; they are now in front, in the primitive fashion; they are fringed, embroidered stenciled or made of Batik.
 They are the connecting link between a blouse of one kind and a skirt of another, and they soften and make har- monious the joining of these two oppos- ing garments.
 Sometimes they have bibs and aprons attached to the front and then they be- come sashes de luxe. Usually, these peasant accessories are made of old
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

shape, is of the silk, with trimming banks of the mink
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16
GRAY HAIR?
 WHITE, FADED?
If Anxious to Have Beautiful Dark Hair Again and Look
 Young, Read This

There Is no occasion for you to look
 prematurely old with gray or faded
 hair. Before going to bed rub into
 your scalp and wet all your hair with
 La Creole Hair Dressing. This is not a
 dye. but harmless preparation that revives the color glands of nature. Soon you will be delighted to observe all your gray hair turn to an even. beautiful dark shade, without even a trace of gray showing. but La Creole makes all your hair healthy, fluffy, soft. evenly dark and lustrous. This makes you look younger. Try La Creole. Sold by all drug stores. or sent prepaid for s1.2o by Van vlcet Drug Co. Mem phis, Tenn.-Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

der to hide whatever flesh she may not have been able to eliminate from her frame.
 Everyone knows that the so-called 1 gypsy sash which has been taken from the Rumanian vagabonds, is apt to increase the size appearance of the hips, land yet it has come into fashion as quickly thunder shower comes ur in August.
 There is a strong belief among the designers that this Rumanian hip girdle, which is as old as Nineveh and Tyre will not prove popular, but all the de- signers believe that the bias movement which is creeping into all the fashions and which expresses itself in long Ioblique lines, will soon take the place of the straight, Indian and Alexandriar silhouette.
 The dressmakers, who are trying to achieve something new in evening gowns in order to keep women interested in this form of apparel, have used this obique movement to accomplish some thing quite out of the commonplace.
 On a black velvet frock. this new sill houette was given by using a broad piece of cloth of jet studded with rows of rhnestones, which wrapped the upper part of the figure in long lines that dropped from shoulder to hips, and cross ing in front<to tie in back, ended in a narrow train which gave dignity to a slim skirt
 It is a long jump from an evening gown of velvet and cloth of jet to a sweater but among the artistic set, this oblique movement has been worked out in knitted scarf which is substi- ute for a sweater. It is worn as the Canadian soldiers wear it, crossing over the front and back in oblique lines with the long ends tucked through tht part that forms the belt in front ant dropping down with their fringe to | inches below the waist
 If you have not seen one of these new Sweaters, you cannot inmagine how lmuch more graceful and out of the com , monplace they are than the knitted gar ment of which most of us are hearth. weary, unless it is intended for mal In the trenches.
 THE IMPORTANCE OF SASHES 5 Whenever the .girdling of the hips . becomes a first fashion, sashes leap III on high pinnacle and proclaim thei presence with trumpeting authority.
 Throughout the ages sashes come an, go much to the amusement and interes of women, especially those women wh see in accessories the most divertin port of fashionable apparel.
 Some minds work along the line o adjuncts in clothes, rather thpn funda nentals. In every little group of wom en there is one, or probably more, wh will burn the midnight oil to creat or attach new and fashionable acces sories to an old gown. In the addtio of sash. the placement of a rose, tn application of bit of jet, new cuff CT 2 gold cord. they find their chic pleasure in clothes.
 sl They are the women who keep scraps 8 They haunt the bargain counters tha ' sell accessories. They delight in tn . aisles given over to trimming The know the arts of cleaning and press T ing and dipping into fresh dye, eve Ss though their dye may be only bot ' tic ef red ink They will tell you tha ' all of their labor Is for the sake 9 economy. It is not. It is a gratifica ton of their own desires. In thei y hearts they prefer new sash to a ne frock, new design in embroidery { q. home spun suit.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

to the woman who is looking for some- thing that is not sailor hat made of black velvet.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16
THE BIAS MOVEMENT

The different curves which clothes have taken during the last two years are too familiar to women's minds to re- count them. They are as easily remem-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

Shows in the bias movement of fabric which the dress makers are trying to sub stitute for the straight movement - The oblique line is said to make women look simmer and more youthful-Sashes are used to camouflage old gowns to look like new ones. Milliners introduce new kind of turban that has a modified harem veil of tulle.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16
Fall in Love With Your Work

Bernarr Macfadden, in Physical Culture. The richest rewards come only when one can literally fall in love with one's work. If you are keenly interested in your daily efforts, your work is being done more satisfactorily. It is labor of love. Every day is an enjoyable ex- pefience.
 Love your work. Retain your youth full enthusiasm All this means that you must take every possible care of your health. That you must maintain your physical energies at high-water mark. Remember always that you depend upon your bodily machine for the attainment of your object in life. Take care of that machine.
 Is it not worth more than an auto mobile, than an airplane, fine horse or dog? Is it not in reality beyond financial valuation? Recognize it's value to the full. Remember that each day you are what your food makes you. Your muscles, the strength and contour of your body, are influenced by the exercise you take. The blood that makes up the tissues, that nourishes and gives energy and enthus- iasm to your brain, depends upon your diet and exercise and the general care you give your body
 
 Expert in Two Lines From the Louisville Courier-Journal.
 That lady is very expert
 "Huh?''
 Keeps knitting and talking"
 "Wel1?"
 And never drops a stitch or the thread of her conversation"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

Find out where the bulge is and you find where the fashion is. This was the opinion of an artist who studied movement and color and knew nothing of the practical side of dress. ..rhroughout the centuries of dress" he continued. ''the student who deals only with the history of fashions will lind that the entire difference rests in the bulge, it's presence, it's absence and its placement
 One could write chapters dealing with the bulge that has gone through cen turies of fashion. A skirt goes out at the hips and in at the ankle, out at the ankle and in at the hips; sleeves flare at the elbow, the shoulder or the wrist; collars rise outward from the neck. flare over the shoulders, roll down. ward to the collarbone. And so on through all the details of costumery.
 The bulge is so all-important that woman is hopelessly out of fashion un- less she follows its movements She may wear the wrong color, compromise on a fabric that is slightly out of fash ion or combine materials that were not Intended for each other at their sources, but she will notp ut bulge where bulge should not be. She will work overnight, be extravagant and lose her temper merely to avoid wearing skirt that goes out in the wrong place. sleeve that flares where it should not, hipline that is concave when it ought to be convex.
 What in common garden English we call sthe bulge" the French more ele gantly term *the movement" 1t is in teresting and puzzling to those who go to Paris the first time and hear the dis cussion of dress in the ateliers of those who design and sell clothes, to hear the two words-"the movement-punctu- ate every sentence.
 If the movement of a gown is right or if celebrated designer, through the hands and the fabric, brings new movement into an accomplished result, the whole fashion of the season is changed.
 It is in the movement of fabric that the manufacturers rest their hopes of making fortunes. They know the. public They know the minds of women. They know that all iknds of secretive, and sometimes pernicious economy will be practced in the camouflage which con- verts old clothes into new, but that all such economy is thrown to the winds when a new movement becomes the fash ion and, through it's sinuous lines, throws all others into the discard.
 THE BIAS MOVEMENT
 The different curves which clothes have taken during the last two years are too familiar 10 womens minds to re- count them They are as easily remem-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16
EMBROIDERY ON
 VELOUR

We are used to wool embroidery on our street suits. And now we find floral designs, worked in silk on suits of velour-floral designs such as once we should have considered suitable only for centerpiecest
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16
For a C0rn-PeeIing
 Picnic, Use "Gets-lt'

Pain Eases at once., Corn Jnst Dies!
 Do your corn-ridding easily, with a smile-the banana-peel way. That s the "Gets-It' way--the only way your corn or callus comes off complete as though it were glad to get off.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

"Gets-It' has cured more corns than all other remedles combined. It's as water Used by millions Don't take a chance with your feet, you can't af- ford to experiment with unknown mix lures when you know "Cets-lr never fails.
 "Gets-It" will remove any corn ol callus. Wear those new. stylish shoes or pumps If you want togo ahead and dance Demand Gets It"-throw sub, stitutes back on the counter' 9ae is al, you need pay at any drug store, or | Co.,. Chicago, H.
 Sold in Birmingham and recommend ed as the worlds best corn remedy by Eugene Jacobs Drue Store. Gale Drug Co e stores), 307 First. avenue and Pratt Sta. Pratt City. Ala.--Adv.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-12-16

riage but roast beef and pumpkin pie are dull, and yet you go on eating them until the end of your life, while I would give none of you a fortnight to turn against unvarying dinners of pate de foie gras. Marriage releases you from the unreal by giving you many real things to association with the solid earth. That need satisfied, your spirit is free to wander in the unreal, in abstract thought, in artistic desire, instead of being bound by the continual aspiration of the unmar- ried to the real things they do not pos Sess,
The daily Alaskan., 1917-12-31
CHURCHES

Skagway has the reputation of being home city. There are many institutions that go to make a place one in which families wish to re- side and to rear their children. Not only the school is important, but also the church.
 Skagway is fortunate in it's churches, having 8 Catholic Church, PresbYterian and Christian Science. All are active in their work, and all have done much for the better ment of Skagway. In addition to
The daily Alaskan., 1917-12-31
POST OFFICE

Skagway has one of the best equipped post offices in the north. l. is housed in the Bank of Alas ka building, a concrete structure, ou Broadway at the corner of 9th street. The post office is uP-to- date in every way, containing large boxes and drawers for the mail.
 -Es,, - the above mentioned churches there is an Episcopal building in which services are held at frequent times during the summer months.
The daily Alaskan., 1917-12-31

Skagway has every reason to be Sroud of it's Public School. The school building is conveniently To- cated almost in the exact center Of the townsite; it contains eight rooms, five of which are occupied as class rooms, and there is also general assembly room, & man .ual training room, and one room at present uhused. There is an extensive basement, and the entire commodious building is comfortably heated by a hot air system, lighted throughout by electricity, and the purest of mountain water is supplie from the city water mains for drink ing purposes, with an ample head of water from the same source im- mediately available for fire protec- lion.
 The present enrolment cosists of approximately 100 pupils, with staff of one principal, four per manent teachers, and two Ruxil- iary teachers. The pupils are being given every possible advantage; the course includes the usual gram mar grades, a three-year High School course, manual training ant domestic scieLce-all in charge of competent instructors following up to-date methods in every particular Efforts are now being made by the Alaska Commissioner of Eduacation
 tn standardize all schools in the Territory, and the Skagway 6choo, Board hopes and expects to make
The daily Alaskan., 1917-12-31
SKAGWAY'S PUBLIC SCHOOL
 RANKS AMONG ALASkGS BEST

arrangements for the accrediting of high school pupils so that they will be accepted at higher institutions of learning without being required to pass examinations.
 The passage of the recent law by the Alaska legislature whereby the Territory pays 75 per cent of the school expenses, is of great as- sistance in enabling the municipali- ty to maintain q high standard with out unduIy burdening the tax pay CTS. In fact. it is now possible to maintain a better school than ever before at cost of approXi- mately 5000 per year leGs to the people of the community. With this financial heb, it is planned to i'm prove the facilities and equipment of the school whenever and where eyer possible.
 The personell of the Skagway Public School is as follows:
 Principal, Miss Helen Wilson.
 High School Teacher, Miss Viyiar Garrett.
 Grade Teachers, Miss Martha Maj gillicuddy, Mrs. Adele Bunting, Mis- Evelyn TiernGy. Manual Training Instructor, l. | H. Pedersen.
 Domestic Science Instructor, Mrs Albert Reinert.
 Janitor, Martin Johnson. 1 School Board, V. l. Hahn, Presi dent; w. c. Blanchard, Treasurer Marion G. Clark, Clerk.
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11

ton financier had been unable TO fur.
nish any names or other definite in
formation about the alleged leak" in
advance Of President Wilson's peace
note, and that so far as he was con
cerned the matter would be dropped.
Mr.. lawson issued a statement as
serting Washington did not want an
investigation, and Chairman Henry
would not act unless the leak max.
ers" and beneficiaries confessed to
him in advance.
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11
NOTICE.

whereas. at the regular election
held on the eth day OF Nov 1916.
there was submitted toithe- voters Of
Fair precinct the question shall
stock be permitted to run at large"
at which election there we're cast Sc
votes for stock running at large and,
81 votes against stock running at large
and there was majority of 80 votes
against stock running at large in said
district, now therefore
Notice Is hereby given that after
the expiration OF sixty days from De
cember. 2ist. 1915, the date OF the
first publication OF this notice. to-
wit: on and after February 81. 1917,
Il shall be unlawful for stock to run
az large In that portion OF Fair Pre-
cinct In Malheur County. Oregon. the
boundaries Of which are described os
follows. to-wit;
Beginning at point on Snake Riv-
or whore the East and West center
line OF See. Is. Twp, / S $. Rng. ~
r. w. NJ. intersects the said river:
thence In a Northerly direction along
the said River to point where the
Malheur river enters the Snake Riv-
er; thence following the Malheur'
River In a general southwcsterly d.
rection TO It's intersection with the
East and West center line OF Sec. 10.
Twp. rs S. Rng, 40 f.. W. NJ; thence
East to the center OF Sec, s, Twp. rs
s. Rng, a. h. W, NJ; thence South
to the center of See, II. Twp, rs 5.
Rng, a. T., W. NJ; thence East To
the place OF beginning;
Under penalty of ten dollars
for the first offense. and TWEEN
~ dollars for each and ev-
cry subsequent offense. to be recoy-
cred from the owner OF such stock In
a civil action in the name OF the
State OF Oregon, as provided by Sec-.
tion 5575 Of Lords Oregon Laws ~
amended by Chapter 1876 OF the gem
eral laws OF Oregon for 1911,
Witness my hand and zeal OF the
County Court of Malheur County.
Oregon, this 9Th day of Dec, 1916.
W. II, DOOLITTLE.
County Clerk.
First publication Dee. "a, 1916.
Last publication January II, 1917.
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11
T..th In Thar stomseh..

Whatever II may be that the lobster
and the crab. rapaclous, never dnIntF,
are eating they always see something
else that they want and can't wait lup'
tll they have mastlcated the FIRST be.
fore attacking the second. But. they
don't give up the first. not by any man.
ner OF means. Nature, humorlng this
rapaclous bent. has ftted the lobster
and the crab with teeth IN their stonl.
ach. and they swallow their half mas.
tlcated food aud finish the chewing
process with their stomachs while they
seize aud chew the other thing that
has attracted them. Lobsters aud
crabs have no teeth In their mouths.
They chew with their claws what they
have time 10 aud hand the unfinished
Job down 10 their stomachs 10 do the
rest OF the chewing.
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11
PRESIDENT WANTS
RAILWAY LEGISLATION
Visits Capitol UnannOunced 10
Discuss Bills TO Prevent
Strikes.

Washington. President Wilson at a
conference with Senator Newlands in
the senate office building urged the
immediate enactment Of a compulsory
arbitration bill rs a protection to in.
terstate commerce against railroad
strikes.
II is understood 10 have been agreed
at the conference that such an answer
should be made by congress 20 the
latest disagreement between the
brotherhoods and the railway man.
ayers.
The president did not even permit
Secretary Tumulty TO know Of his
plan TO visit the capitol. lie tele.
phoned TO Senator Newlands and
made the appointment himself The
chief executive is said to have ap.
proved the bill which has been drafted
and desired to urge that II be passed
with the least possible delay after
congress convenes.
Tariff Duties on 3 Items Probable.
The advisabilIty OF restoring tariff
duties on wool. rubber and coffee and
Of Increasing the present tariff on
sugar Ia under consideration by treas.
ury department officials and in con.
greHs az n means Of avertinE the
threatened deficit At the end OF the
nsIt fiscal year.
No return to the recent stamp taxes
Ia contemplated in the administration
programme. officials assert. The un.
popularity OF this form Of nIatiOn
was fully dsmonstrsted.. II is felt. in
the operation Of the emergency rev.
snue legislation adopted soon after
the war.
New Reclamation NH 10 introduced.
The irrigation OF countless acres .vf
arid lands. and the drainage OF stu
greater areas Of swamp lands. viii be
made possible II congress passes the
bill recently introduced In the senate
by Senator Chamberlain. of. Oregon,
aud In the house by Representative
Smith. of Idaho Whether the bill can
receive final consideration this SEES.
sion In problematical.
State Department Leaks" Admitted.
As a result OF the sensation stirred
up by Thomas W. lawson. who offered
10 prove that millions had been made
In Wall street as the result OF leaks"
at Washington, II was admitted on
the floor OF the senate that informH.
ton concerning the honor OF the Ma.
ton" had been betrayed by someone
In the department. As TO information
Of value In rigging the stock market,
Senator Stone. who made the first dis
closure. said he did not know.
Chairman Henry. of the house rules
after AN interview with
Mr., lawson, announced that the Bos-
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11

We want so much to put one OF
our electrically operated Apollo
Player-Pianos in home in Ontario
that we will make a big discount ON
the first one. knowing that enough
orders will follow to warrant the sac
rifice. 1t plays by hand and pedals
also. A letter of iquiry will do no
harm. or you may ask Mrs. Weese
I'm Ontario. Wise Piano House,
Boise, Idaho. 47tf
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11
LEGAL NOTICES.

Meridian, lying South of the right OF
way Of the Riverside Canal;
The electors shall cast ballots at
such election which shall contain the
words. Irrigation District. yes", or
Irrigation District" no.. or words
equivalent thereto, and also the
names of the persons voted for to
fill the elective Offices of said pro-
posed district
At said election there shall be
three directors elected by the district
at large Said district shall consti-
tute one election precinct, and said
election shall be held on the 10th day
OF February, 1917, at the schoolhouse
of School District No &C. in Malheur
County, oregon. The polls shall be
opened at $500 o'clock A. NJ, and
shall remain open until $500 o'clock
=. NJ. OF said day.
The officers at said election shall
be as follows:
Judges:
Frank Miller
John Holly
Clerks:
Mrs. Libby Hillsbury
Mrs. r. II. Bromback
Harvey X. Hatch.
Done and dated at Vale. Oregon,
this 9Th day of January, 1917.
GEO. W. MCKNIGHT.
County Judge.
J. F. WEAVER,
County Commissioners.
First Publication January II. 1917.
Last Publication February 1, 1917.
The Ontario Argus. (Ontario, Or.) 1???-1947, 1917-01-11
oreaon Beat. P,nn.Ylvsnla.

Pasadena. Cal.-The west triumphed
over the east here New Years day. for
the second time In the second annual
postseason football game, when the
husky University Of oregon eleven de
feated the speedy s4a more expert.
enced University Of ps~nSyly lyanla
team BY score OF IL 10 o. Washing
ton State College defeated Brown Uni.
yersity here last year by q like score.