The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1917-07-14

and the flow of a sleeve, that the
dressmakers never get away from
those pages of costumery.
Today we are again threatened with
the Napoleonic. We are almost stated
with medievalism. The Directoire
beckons; the First empire allures.
The madness of Nine. Tallien will not
be repeated today, unless France is
suddenly assured of victory, when. if
history repeats itself, she may go quite
mad again for short time, thru the
oostumery of her women.
In this glow of feeling toward the
Napoleonic period we are not even
averse to the laced bodice and the
gathered skirt of those "citoyennes''
who wrecked the Tuilleries and par
ccled among them the finery of The
Austrian.
Already the colored cotton bodice.
laced with cords, instead of fastened.
has come into being. The Liberty
cap is being brought out by the MILL
ners in a modern form which is still
the symbol of equality and fraternity.
The high waistline and the long
skirt that drooDs in a simple line from
bust to ankles have been introduced
by powerful designers, who have usu-
ally had their way in the world of
fashion.
Broad stripes in taffeta and soft
silk are offered for skirts, separate
peplum blouses, revers and hats.
were in an airplane above the fash
ions of the hour on the battlefields of
commerce. his map would show the
Napoleonic struggling with the medi-
eval. Both have cohorts of strength
behind them.
The Military Influence.
Between the medieval and the Ma
roleonic which still influence the ma
jority of clothes that are offered this
summer, the new military dress is
wedged. 1t forms a salient that is be-
ing rapidly strengthened and organ
ICED.
The first woman who appeared in
military outfit at fashionable res
taurant at the noon hour received as
much enthusiastic attention as did the
young artilleryman who stood behind
rapid firing gun mounted i'll the
lobby of the hotel with a poster ask
ing for subscriptions to the liberty
loan as a background
The woman who wore the military
costume had just come off duty and
was getting her lunch in as much of
hurry as she could. 1t amused her
very much that number of people
thought she was in fancy dress Co.'S
tune.
She wore the khaki of the United
states army, Russian leather low
heeied shoes, puttees of the material
10 her knees. very short, scant skirt.
\
the regulation cap
Against the background of filmy
cHlIlon, strbngs of pearl, picture hats
and Oriental garb. she made a de-
l1ghtful picture. She was the essence
OF simplicity, efficiency and trigness.
"lthln the month the desire for
the military costume has grown SO
great that one sees all women on err
rands of war relief in these khaki out
nus: women who have been taking
their lessons in ambulance driving.
walk thru the STREETS wearing the full
khakl oreeches which the uniform pre-
scr1oes, and over their shoulders is the
full swIrling cape of the French am
bulance and aviation corps.
Women have long worn riding
breeches on the street, covered with
cape or a long top coat, and this
new ambulance costume creates less
attention in large centers than it
would have done a half dozen years
ago; but even now it creates a ripple
of interest which is always attended
by approval and admiration There
are no Jests, no satirical remarks no
laughter from the men as these wo-
men pass thru the ranks of people on
the streets. Some of the difference is
shown to them that is given to the
women with the red cross on their
costumes or the brassard of mercy on
their arms.
1t is happy fact to remember
when one is separating the segments
of fashion for this summer, that the
1S4O-60-10 fashions for women have
not reappeared. They were ugly, flu
tile and costly. Fortunately for u.s.
in this season of embroglio, we are
not asked to wear frills and flounces,
streaming ribbons and roses.
Medievalism is severe, even if gor-
geous at times The Napoleonic
ia ShinnG r 20
from what is known as the First EN-
pire thru the Grecian drapery and to
the directoire severity. And the mill
tary is really costumery cut to the
bone.
The Struggle in Millinery.
The hats of the hour are divided
into two classes; the military and the
picturesque
A year ago the introduction of the
Russian turban swept the milliners off
their feet. Paris invented it as a
tribute to her ally, but France is not
feeling very happy about Russia these
days and this fact will probably
squeIch the Introduction of Russian
costumery by the French designers in
their semiannual exhibitions that &C.
cur the last of this month.
Even after the introduction of the
high Russian hat in Paris, it was not
generally accepted by the fashions
ions are first exploited these days.
America, however, took up the new
hat with an~enthusiasm that was un-
precedented. 1t was a difficult turban
to wear, but that made no difference
in its sales At last the world got tired
of 1t. and the wide, Breton sailor of
Caroline Reboux was introduced and
accepted.
No sooner had the milliners taken
up the idea of the wide brim and all
lowed 1t to grow wider and wider as
the weeks advanced. than the entrance
of America into the war caused them
to jump at the possibility of army hats
for women.
One exclusive milIiner whose origi-
| nations are we'll known on this con-
tinent filled his window with painted,
wooden heads of women. on each of