The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1917-11-05

NEW YORK - The long, loose
tuuic bcltcd over the hips may be
The dominant fashion OF TINS winter. as
4 was last winter, but # does not hold
the field entirely to itself.
The silhouette Of the middle ages o.
so popularb accepted and 50 over
worked, one might say, 10y all the dc
! Signers OF the world, hat the expert
feels that the sartorlal barometer will
soon mark a change
II /, difficult 10 know Why ones
senses register a coming change # one
IS sensitive TO atmosphere OF all kinds
/ The rheumatic twInges that come before
The cloudy sky arriEes may be laughed
at by doctors. but they can be proved
by sufferers Thus, II Is with those who
are kcenly alive 10 the movement oi
style. One senses a change in the air
now II may be foolish 10 assert it
without much foundation. but there are
Straws flickering through the air that
seem to come from apother direction
than the one which bicN in the mnc,,
the pca'am blouscs and the medic, al
evening frockS
Incoming Of the Directoir,.
1t Is quite proper and right that the
dircctoire should come in on the heels
Of the primitive clothes we have worn
for two years, for the Napoleonic period
saw the revival OF all these fashions
and Nine TAllien was not very far re-
moved IN her costume from some of the
young dancing creatures one sees to-
day; and the women under the directory
changed their style of dressing at a
time when the Grccian drapcry was the
glory OF the moment All the epochs OF
drSs which have closely, followed on
each others heels in the last six years,
may have been Centuries apart in their
original introduction, but IL is safe to
say that they were all foregathered in
a hectic procession OF the ages during
he Napoleonic period IN France,
The straw which shows the incoming
dircctolre styles, or at least, a modifica-
ton or adaptation OF them is that up
ward tit that all the drcssmakers arc
developing in gkirtS and overskirts.
isaAll hlNNAlUdhVl NOIh " Out III
different way, but it is to be seen on
nearly every important frock True, It
may develop at the waistline instead OF
at the hem OF the skirt, and it may de-
yclop at the collar bone instead of AT
the knees, but one has become aCcus-
toned TO seeing that upward movement
OF drapery, although II is directly op-
IN ha 81
It's upward movement OF drapery at the
back.
Aprons In Street Suits.
A remarkable grouping OF new gowns
shows the clever and subtle way in
which the designers play with the peas
ant apron taken from the Brittany OF
other days, Cast into new play and
given a modern role, this apron is mere
ly panel of cloth used with few
gathers OF sewed straight 10 the belt.
which attaches Il TO the waist. II is also
used to provide that upward till which
spells directoire
The sketch shows a new street suit
built OF beige cloth, which has SO many
features OF the directore in II that il
attracts the attention at once, and not
only for this reason, but for the fast
that II Is different from what the tailors
have given us since the last Of August
The apron is used as a method Of ac
centuatlng the high waistline in front
and presenting a sharp contrast to the
downward tilt OF the suit at the back.
II has slim, straight line over the
shoulders and in front. and most
'nlQuc collar which envelopes the face
like a de Medici ruff and is fastened
Aown the back with purple buttons. in
stead OF St the side OF IN front. as most
collars are fastened
The apron on the front of the skirt
- edged with all embroidered band done
in purple and old rose silk threads. The