davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
Khaki Uniform of the
Woman Ambulance Driver

Women have long worn riding breeches on
the street covered with a cape or long top
coat. and this new ambulance costume creates
less attention in the large centres than 1t would
have done half dozen years ago; but even now
it creates a ripple of interest, which is always
attended by approval and admiration. There
are no tests. no satirica remarks, no laughter
from the men as these women pass through
the ranks of people on the streets. Some OF
the Difference is shown to them that is given to
the women with the red cross on their cos
tunes or the brassard of mercy on their arms.
1t is a happy fact to remember, when one is
separating the segments of fashion for this
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
Ornate Collars and Cuffs Will Relieve
The Simplicity of the Coming Costume

Among the experts, whose business in life
is to study clothes, one constantly hears the
call for simplicity. If there is to be economy,
it must be in the usage of. material, but not In
the price paid or the number of clothes pur-
chased The claim of certain manufacturers
that there should be economy in the amount Of
material used, because the use of patch
pockets, hip drapery and wide collars allows a
good deal of patching and extra scanning, does
not appeal to the public.
1t has long been an adage of those who know
clothes thoroughly that frocks with frills' are
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

Tam o. Shanters apparently came first ~
Scotland, but the latest tams come from Hr'
They are made with band that fits vel 40
the crown of the head, and the loose, ~
crown is so soft that it can be pushed or pc
to suit the fancy of the wearer. Some o. Ia'
tams have long silk tassels fastened u ,
middle of the crown, and this further u
jauntiness to the appearance. Needle" W
they are most attractive when worn BY thsN'
young woman.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

scant skirt, khaki regulation military jacket
and the regulation cap.
Against the background OF tilmy cnlHoh,
strings of pearls, picture hats and Oriental
garb she made delightful picture. She was
the essence of simplicity, efficiency and trig-
ness.
Within the month the desire for the military
costume has grown so great that one sees all
sorts Of women on errands of war relief IN
these khaki outfits. Women who have been tax
ing their lessons in ambulance driving walk
through the streets wearing the full khaki
breeches which the uniform prescribes, and
over their shoulders is the full, swirling cape OF
the French ambulance and aviation corps.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
Newest Summer Hat

TNELT sport hats Of so-called sport st,i.
are in demand among younger W..
- as necessary to the completion II
country wardrobe. They are, Of courS, !,
from all trimming, save neat band, az
spite of the fact that they are soft and ts
stantial felt they are not too hot for sur,s
wear. In green, rose. yellow, tan or whleg
are especially smart. Hats that combines
and felt are also in demand for summer p,
wear.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
Gayly Painted Fans

TIME fan is such a delightful feminine per-
ouiste In summer that it is strange
u every woman does not make use Of 1t.
OF course, there are few women who really
dislike the breeze created by a fan. But with
most women it is merely matter OF habit
the use Of fan.
So learn to use fan this summer, If you
have forgotten how while you have been learn
ing to use tennis racquet and knitting needles
Have a supply of fans on hand, so that you will
always find one without hunting for it. Cheap
fans are really usually quite as effective as
expensive ones You can buy dainty little fans
Of net or gauze, bespanged, for 90 cents.
little black fan of this sort is exceedingly
pretty. Then there are big Tapping paper
fans. Perhaps you are fortunate enough to
have one from Spain or Mexico, bedecked with
gay colors and a scene Of the serenade or bull
fight sort. These fans are really worth using,
for they give a most worth while breeze.
The shops are always full Of inexpensive
fans OF the round shape-like those painted
gauze fans mounted on bamboo circlet OF
wood that come from China. And then there
are odd fans from all the islands Of the sea,
made Of strange fbres and in unusual shapes.
By all means have more than one fan on
hand. II you wish, you can work up quite
little fad for fans, and you can use separate
one for each Of your changing summer moods
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
What Well Dressed Women Will Wear by ANNE RT1ENFfOOsE
Stately Medieval Influence in Dress Contends with
the Pseudo-Classc Napoeonic Styles

DAYS and this fact will probably sqCech the
introduction of Russian costumery by the
French designers in their semi-annual exhioi-
tions that occur the last of this month.
Even after the introduction of the high Rus
sian hat in Paris it was not generally accepted
bv the fashionables on the Riviera, where
Paris fashions are first exploited these days.
America, however, took up the new hat with an
enthusiasm that was unprecedented. 1t was
difficult turban to wear, but that made no dit
ference in its sales. At last the world got tired
of it. and the wide Breton sailor of Caroline
Reboux was introduced and accepted.
No sooner had the miliners taken up the idea
of the wide brim and allowed it to grow wider
and wider as the weeks advanced than the en-
trance of America into the war caused them to
lump at the possibility Of army hats for women.
One exclusive milliner, whose organizations
are we'll known on this continent, filled his WIN
dow with painted wooden heads Of women on
each of which he placed cap that correspond
ed with one worn by a section of the army at
the fighting front.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

More popular than any one predicted am
flower-trimmed, wide-brimmed hats that
pend for their charm on their FRESHNESS, GA.
full lines and occurrences. One could hardy d
such hat smart, but charming they cera-
are, especially when worn by young Wei
clad in a garden party frock. Naturally !
sees few Of these hats worn by welldrss
women in the city.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

We never seem to get very far ava! "
the use of black velvet in hats, and this y
mer, as last, there are some very aura
hats showing the combination Of pure "
straw and black velvet, the velvet beng -
in the way of puff crowns, brim faelap
merely as large, gracefully disposed DOW
loops.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
1t is shown in this exaggerated n,
of handkerchief linen. The desira 4
the eyelet embroidery is Sigh, and 4.
fective. The edges are finished with
beading and fluted ruffles.

to these, she is already making up her n,,,
use voluminous collars and cuffs.
The neckwear people are delighted oyss
attitude They are stimulating the dess,
introducing a wide range of novelties. Ca
are enlarged until they reach the dmensa,.
short capes, and cuffs are taking to thsnx,
the appearance of gauntlets.
Many seasons have passed since it was .
sidered fashionable to attach white cuff,
the coats of tailored suits, but it is being u
to-day. Pique is used, also handkerchief Ike
Paris muslin and white linen. ScallOped en-
ruffles of white footing, French knots and q
tache braid trim the edges.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

offered for skirts, separate peplum bouses, re-
vers and hats.
And so it is. And if an airman were in an
airplane above the fashions of the hour on the
battlefelds of commerce his map would show
the Napoleonic struggling with the medieval.
Both have cohorts Of strength behind them.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

This is the fashion struggle that women watch with
interestNearIy all the interesting clothes are based
on one or the other-The high wasted frock OF
the Empress Josephine and the long, swinging
sleeves of Queen Guinevere are in fashion now
The decoIletage mounts higher, and the ankles
are more closely concealed from the general view
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08
The Struggle in Millinery Between
the Military and the Picturesque

The hats Of the hour are divided into two
classes-the military and the picturesque.
A year ago the introduction of the Russian
turban swept the miiners off their feet. Paris
invented it as a tribute to her ally, but France
is not feeling very happy about Russia these
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

women who transpose his ideas into clothing.
None of these designers insists that what
he or she does has never been done before
What they believe and what they profess is that
they dip with both hands into the past, as the
Arabs dip deeply into their ever-boiling pot OF
stew for daily and yearly nourishment.
The world of clothes has just experienced
mad revival in medievalism. Women OF every
weight. age and curve have adopted the gowns
Of Queen Guinevere and Melisond.
Such garments have been cut by the nun
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

The Liberty cap is being brought out by the
milliners in a modern form which is still the
symbol of equality and fraternity.
The high waist line and the long skirt that
droops in a simple line from bust to ankle
have been introduced by powerful designers
who have usually had their way in the world
of fashion.
Broad stripes in tafreta and soft silk are
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

summer that the 1840-'6O-'7O fashions for
women have not reappeared. They were ugly
futile and costly. Fortunately for u.s. in this
season of embroglio, we are not asked to wear
frills and founces, streaming ribbons and roses.
Medievalism is severe, even if gorgeous at
times. The Napoleonic fashions are economical,
for they run from what is known as the First
Empire through the Grecian drapery and TO
the Drectore severity. And the military is
really costumery cut to the bone.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-07-08

"HE medieval in dress dies hard. The Ma
poeonic influence in apparel never
IL really loses its grip. 1t may be said by
the historian Of dress that one of these two
phases of feminine costumery is the basis Of
every fashion that comes and goes.
The professional humorists, when they
grow satircal over their work, say that there
are only three basic jests in the world; they
are the century old pyramids which are used as
the foundation for all prankishness.
The buyers who deal with the commerce OF
fashions more than with their artistic sources,
and who give the credit to the Council of Ten
in Paris rather than to the ages that have
melted into history, are apt to subdivide clothes
into what Worth, Paquin, Cheruit and Poiret
do OF have done.
If these designers are interviewed as to the
source of their inspired costumery they merely
point TO old engravings, to designs on parch-
ments, to historic costumes in the Cluny Mu-
scum or to the phases of history which they
dug up and revived in fabric.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

mission know? Kitchener is
dead and he could not testify
before the investigators. Is it
fair to conduct an inquiry in
the absence of the man whose
actions are under question and
when the conditions are such
he can not tell his side of the
story? How are people to
know that Kitchener was not
unduly blamed? What if the
Turk fought harder than any,
one realized he could. Was
Kitchener to blame for that?
The foregoing deals with the
accuracy of the commissions
report, Something may also
be said as to the chivalry of
assailing the official actions
of a soldier after he has sacri-
feed his life in his country's
service. Would it not be bet
ter taste for the English to
leave Kitchener's memory
alone?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
% Years Ago Today

CFrom the Daily East Oregonian.
March Is. 1SsS.D
g. II. Hanford has been appointed
chief justice of Washington territory
~ President Harrison.
g. b. Wade is making extensive
improvements on his residence pro-
perty on Johnson street
The sidewalk in front OF Aiexand-
ders and Frasers is being raised to
the required level which viii make
an improvement.
Now that the new Pendleton Hotel
y finished there is a little trouble be-
tween the contractor. Frank ZeigIer.
and the company over the fact the
work was not completed on time.
]. J. Ballery Esquire is absent on
a Trip to walla Walla
Russian Bob" was arrested wed
= esday night in the Board OF Trade
saloon charged with raising a dis
turbance and threatenine 20 do
bodily harm TO his companions.
Judge y. O. Yoakum is in town
from Nolin today.
Ida Bowman vas rendered a sur
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
SOMETHING TO STUDY
ABOUT

n F the low terminal rates
to coast cities are perma-
nently knocked out, for
which possibility the chances
are good, will not Pendleton
become the logical place for
the distribution of many lines
of manufactured goods, par
ticularly in farming imple-
ment lines? The East Ore
gonian believes there is real
hope for such business for this
city and the subject is one
worthy of earnest study by
the Commercial Club and busi-
ness leaders. A great shift in
commercial affairs is under
way and the process will be-
come more pronounced as
time goes on. Pendleton should
keep its eye upon the situation
and take any steps possible
towards capitalizing its for
tunate location.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

~ HE majority of the United
VI States senate favor rati-
fication of the treaty
with Columbia whereby the
United States will pay $685.
UOO, 900 for the territory taken
for Panama canal purposes,
but it is reported republicans
hope to muster more than one
third of the senate in OPPOSITE
on to the treaty so as to prevent
favorable action.
1t will be unfortunate if the
minority members take such
a course. 1t will be another
illustration of a small number
of senators blocking the pur-
poses of the administrator al
a time when united support
should be given the president.
The Columbia treaty is part
Cf the Wilson international
progfam. The purpose of the
treaty is TO make amends to
Columbia for the ruthless man.
ner in which Roosevelt took
Panama away from Columbia.
The treaty is intended not
merely to satisfy Columbia but
TO convince all South American
nations that the United States
stands for justice and fair play,
TO small nations as well as to
large and powerful countries.
1t is a desirable impression to
make in view of the fact we
now seek closer commercial re-
iatiOns with South America 4
and desire the confidence of I
those countries to the end we
may help advise them as to .
world politics. /
IL the senate minority 4
through obstructive tactics
holds up the Columbia treaty
the republicans will have to
face responsibility for any evils /
that may arise from failure of I
the United States to be Just to
this South American republic. \
s-s-~>~e ~-s-~s@
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

When the child Is subject to attacks
of Group. see TO it that he eats a light
evening meal, as an overloaded stom-
ach may bring on an attack, also
watch for the first symptom-horse-
ness. and give Chamberlain's Cough
Remedy as soon as the child becomes
hoarse. Obtainable everywhere
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
UNFAIR TO KITCHENER

~ ORE than passing inter
0U est has been aroused in
the action of the Eng
iish special commission that
has placed blame for the Oar
danelles defeat at the door of
Kitchener.
The hero of Khartoum was
head of the army at the time
the operations were carried
on. He may have been re-
sDonsible for the mistakes
made. But how does the com
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

That ten years ago a person could
ride from Echo TO the Columbia riv-
er without encounteTIng fence or
without seeing a tree save a few scat
tered cottonwoods and greasewoods
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
WE CANNOT AFFORD 1T

1tN RESIDENT WILSON was
I'd justified in taking ac-
y ton to forestall a rail-
road strike last fall and he
will be right in taking any ne
-cessary action to prevent a
strike at this time; with our in
ternational affairs at fever
heat and food prices at such
figures people can scarcely
meet them it is no time for a
transportation tie up.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

With Gerard back in this
country we may learn whether
Germany really proposes to
sink our ships without warn
ing or has given submarine
commanders orders not to see
ships flying the stars and
stripes.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

That Congressman Pat McArthur'a
father used to hold court in Umatilla
county about as years ago and that
unlike Efs son, he was a staun
democrat?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

That a man named John stephens.
now IL New York, claims to have
beer where now stands PendIeton
before Moses Goodwin settled here?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

New homes are under con-
in all parts of the
city yet the demand for hOus-
es in Pendleton is unabated.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

A good roads program, even
if open to some objections, is
better than a bad roads pro-
gram; the poor road is the
worst sort of an investment.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

That Alex Malcolm. w. w. Whit
worth and ]. c. Dickey of Echo. In
dian war veterans. have been granted
pensions?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
DO YOU KNOW

That on an average IL 900 sacks of
sugar are shipped into PendletoI
each year?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

The PendletOn Light & Power Co.
will have 81 arcs in operation.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15
LIFE AND TIE SPIRIT.

y LIFE AND THE SPIRIT.
= All life must rise to something
= in the spirit,
. Some height of nohleness in
. deed and thought
. We face the battle not to flee
= or fear it,
. Or be cajoled. or trifled with
= or bought.
. We must be linked with that I
high spiritual vision 4
That sees beyond our deily I
trivial cares 4
, II we would stamp on life with I
true precision I
, Our faith that conquers all our 4
BRIEF despairs. Z
, Naster our energies OF high
contention Z
Against the drag-net of the Z
sundering wrong q
IF with high-souled spiritual Z
intention Z
We save ourselves by helping z
life the throng. =
Selected.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

prise party last evening by her young
friends.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1917-03-15

Ida Bowman vas rendered sur
The independent-reporter. [volume] (Skowhegan, Me.) 1909-1955, 1917-11-15
PITTSFIELD

Frank J. Morse and Mabel Gerrish
Gerald both of Pittsfield, were united
in marriage, Nov. 4th. by Robert Pal
mer Of Newport. Mrs. Morse was
attired in blue silk; they were attend
ed by the groom's brother and wife,
Mr.. and Mrs. Peter Morse OF East
Newport Mr.. and Mrs. Morse intend
to spend their future In Massachu-
sets. They have the best wishes of
their many friends of Troy and Pitts
field, which are their home towns. 1t
was a great surprise to her folks and
friends, who knew nothing of 1t until
a few days afterward They had
made plans to take a trip to Vermont
on their honeymoon, but owing to the
fact that the brides father, Reuben
Gerrish, was in critical condition in
the hospital on account Of cancer, 1t
was put off He has returned home
now after a successful operation altho
many we're in doubt as to the outcome
because he is "a years old 1t is hop
ed that Mr.. and Mrs. Morse may go
now and be happy. The two daugh-
ters OF Mrs. Morse, Miss Alma Over
lock, who resides In this town and
Miss Idella Overlook of Pittsfield and
their friends, Lee Elkins of Unity and
Almon Brown of Pittsfeld were guests
of Mr. and Mrs. Morse. A good time
followed and all enjoyed themselves.
The independent-reporter. [volume] (Skowhegan, Me.) 1909-1955, 1917-11-15
MOSCOW

Eugene Collins of Madison was in
town Thursday of last week.
Mrs. CULVER of Oakland is keep
ing house for Jordan Hunnewell, Sr
and SON
Robert Arno and Ruel Gates are
home from Spencer, where they have
been working all this fall.
Mrs. Dan Steward of Fairfield has
been visiting in the home of her broth
err, Milton Reynolds.
Amos Chapman of Athens and Mr..
Beckwith Of Cornville took dinner
here Monday on their way to The
Forks to buy stock.
w. F. Hill, Nal Spaulding and
Charles Collins are working on the
highway bridge across Decker brook
Mrs Henry McQuilkin arrived home
few days ago from the hospital in
Lewiston, where she recently under
went surgical operation.
Olin Taylor of Skowhegan was In
town Saturday repairing telephones
on the Farmers line.
Next meeting of Good VIII Club
will be Nov %.
The independent-reporter. [volume] (Skowhegan, Me.) 1909-1955, 1917-11-15
EAST MADISON

John McCray of Madison was in
town Sunday calling on his wife's
folks, Mr.. and Mrs. J. L. Wilson.
Mrs. l.. e. Thompson returned home
Sunday from spending the week with
her parents, Mr. and Mrs. Horace
Stilson.
Mrs. Nettie Bosworth and Mrs. Her
bert Bosworth went to Skowhegan
Monday to visit Mrs. Alma Steward.
Miss Lana Nottage, who is teaching
school below Skowhegan, was home
over Sunday
Wilfred Squires was In town Sun
day visiting his cousin Mrs. Hattie
Clement
Mrs. Forrest Harvell has gone to
Cornville for few days to take care
of Mrs. Evelyn Harvell, who has a
baby born last Monday
Walter Cronkhite and l. Griffith re-
turned home from Bakers Siding,
Tuesday, where they had been on a
hunting trip. They were lucky and
brought home fine eight-point buck
as trophy.
Miss Alta Love has gone to Wilton
for visit of a couple of weeks with
her sister and mother, she will also
stop In Waterville on her return home.
Fred Russell and Vern Wing are
at Deadwater on hunting trip.
Mrs. Joe Merrill and son Of Scion
are visiting this week with her moth
er, Mrs, Flora Hutchins.
Mr.. and Mrs. Perley Laney observ-
ed their 10th wedding anniversary last
Saturday evening and entertained
about 20 of their friends and relatives
from this place and Skowhegan. The
evening was very pleasantly passed in
playing games and with music on the
monograph. They received nice
rocker and quite a few dishes for
presents. Refreshments of ice cream,
cake, candy and grapes were served
The party broke up at a late hour, the
guests returning home after wishing
Mr.. and Mrs. Laney many more years
of happy married life. Among those
present from out of town were Mrs
Laneys mother and sister, Mrs. Gay
Barnes and Miss Maud Green of Show
hogan.
The independent-reporter. [volume] (Skowhegan, Me.) 1909-1955, 1917-11-15
NORTHEAST CORNvHLE

Asa Tracy, wife and two children of
Pittsfeld were auto callers Sunday at
E. r. Berry's.
Mrs. Louis Roth, who has been
passing nearly three weeks at the
Roth home here, left Monday morning
on her return to East Boston. Mr..
Roth who came with her returned
after only a weeks visit having only
a short furlough from the Navy yard
at Charlestown, where he is employ
ed.
Mrs. Louis Roth and her father-in-
law, William Roth, visited at Harry
Wheeler's, Canaan, Thursday and Fri
day of last week.
l.. A. Stinchfield was caller Sun
day at J. S. Aliens after an absence
from town of several weeks.
Mrs. Adeline Whittier observed her
birthday, Nov. 8, by a gathering of old
neighbors and friends.
Mrs. Rosetta Mcclure has closed
her home here and gone back to Corn
vile Center.