Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-06-10

copyright. 1917, by the Mcclure Newspaper
Syudicate.)
ct is an oft-repeated assertion that
the French never give up the idea
of trousers for women, and the
- world that is opposed to such an idea
always comes back with the statement
that France. who adores the feminine
IN woman more than any other nation
in the world, insists upon her wearing
a costume that is entirely mannish.
1t was France who opposed the Anglo
Saxon coat and skirt of worsted ma
terial on the ground that 1t took away
from women that alluring femininity
which is their chief charm. 1t was the
Paris designers who said that they
never cared to perfect themselves in
the making OF costumery that was not
befitting to the soft curves and coQuetry
Of n woman's figure and face.
kx
And yet 1T is Paris who, for at least
xix years. has insistently struck the
note of trousers for women throughout
the seasons. She points to the trousers
of the orient. however. as the ones to
be initiated. The bifurcated garments
that she designs are full of feminine
touches. They are not the square.
rigorous pants of the male attire Of
this generation. And yet one of the
most coquettish things the little girls
of Montmartre do in Paris is to swagger
about the restaurants in boyish attire
the large trousers of the Quarter. the
short jacket, the soft shirt with its
rolling collar and the flowing students
tie.
1t was these little French girls who
- Ipr1 t.ar
Brown and wore the SLOUGH hat pulled
down over the forehead. When this
coiffure-or lack of coiffure-was in
troduced here by Mrs. Vernon Castle
and taken up by a thousand and one
other women in and out of society IT
was thought to be something quite out
SaReous. France had accepted 1t for ten
years without a culver. Her people as
serted that the bobbed hair of a boy
was excessively coQuettish against the
Rllurement of young girls face. How
ever. in this country. especially in New
York. there are now women of fifty
with gray hair who have 1t bobbed to
fhe ears and freshly curled every day:
30 the antagonism has evidently died
down.
America does not seem to be averse
10 trousers; now that the first shock is
over she looks upon them with calm
acceptance. Sprovided they are cut ac-
cording to the coGuettish manner which
France insists upon. They are usually
part of skirt. they do not indicate
the shape OF the leg above the knee
and they are managed in some fashion
that gives attractiveness to the entire
garment.
Erie. the young French designer who
was with Paul Poiret. invented the
white cloth skirt that shaped itself at
tho hem into tight-fitting CATERS with
a strap under the shoe This was the
very first indication OF the now famous
zouave skirt
There are already several patterns OF
walking skirts, and also those used for
sports in the open country, which are
made of shadow plaid or vague striped
worsteds that resolve themselves into a
kind of puttee from knee to ankle.
On the stage and in the restaurants
where women dance there are more
extravagant trousered effects in skirts.
such as full garments OF crepe de chine I
or satin which drop from high waist |
line and end in tight-f1tting leggings of
jet. crystal beading or gold and silver |
lace. These leggings inclose only the
calf of the leg. the knees covered by the |
full zouave drapery Of the skirt and
the ankles covered by silk stockings, |
with igh-heeled brocaded slippers as
q finish.
Every one knows that the new even
ing slippers designed after the French
pattern are often carried to the calf of
the leg by means of wide straps of
jeweled leather or gold silver lace.