The Birmingham age-herald., 1917-08-13
DRESS AND SUGGESTIONS ANNE n.isasuo,.. FOR WOMEN
By ANNE RITTENHOUSE
Paris will continue to give us as the leading fashion the gown that IS loosely girdled at the waist.


 New York, August 12.-If anyone hoped for decided change from the medieval frocking that governed the world of dress for the last two years, there will be disappointment. Paris says it will go on And at the present moment af- fairs are in Paris hands. We shall see what we shall see when the new clothes arrive in mid-September, but in the meanwhile there are too many authentic to be in ignorance
 Here is the way in which the new kind of frock will differ from the one that is in your possession now, in all probabil- ity It will be as narrow at the hem as it was five years ago. It will have the neckline taken from the fifteenth century Italian student dress It will be so loosely girdled that the waistline vii, be as supple as in a sweater
 There is a change at the armholes that is we'll worth watching. The sleeve is often placed into the lining, giving the simulated armhole a chance to take upon itself all sorts of vagarieS and caprices.
 There are genuine armholes that hold the sleeves as in the old way, but fre- quently they are cut in battlement style, as Drescoll does it, or in scallops which arc edged with thread of an opposing color.
 The loose armhole with its effect of being an imitation of a Chinese jacket, is also in fashion, but there is lean- ing toward the exaggerated medievalism oF tha wi piOO arrnhnle with SlaaVa that protrudes from beneath it and which does not borrow it's characteristics or even its coloring. At times 1t in- clines toward strong individuality.
 The Ornamental Bib
 One dominating accessory that Paris is placing on these chemise frocks is a bib that drops over the waistline and is given a semblance of curve by the girdle
 Usually the workmanship in this bib is repeated on the skirt. Paris Is quite determined, that is certain, on the vast establishment of her business in em- broidery. Her women are need1eworkers of importance. None is so good on this planet, possible, unless isolated excep- tions in the Indian and Persian coun- tries.
 Her gentlewomen are trained, as all gentlewomen used to be trained in olden days before the sewing machine and ready to wear garments. in the art of holding a needle filled with fine thread and accomplishing wonders with it.
 Money has been scarce among the people in aristocratic segments of French life and the war has brought about the same kind of situation which existed during the revolution; those who are too proud to work for their living on other epochs will now do so under the na- tional strain.
 Also, there are thousands of Belgian refugees and French women in other classes of life and society who must be supported France does not believe in the nonproducing consumer. And so these women and men. too old even to serve in that terrifying service of bear ing the wounded from the trenches of the hills, which has been given to those who do not bear arms and who are sure of their footing and their nerves, are given the gentler service of embroidery for the worlds clothes. So every