davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
Colored Crystals Used

In the new gowns that We will wear there
will be as much colored crystal work as colored
worsted embroidery. 1t looks as though the
crystals will be given over to the evening cos
tumery and the worsteds to the street clothes.
Only few of the French dresSmakers have
put sequins on clothes, but each and all have
taken up colored bead work with enthusiasm
and exploited it with all the frankness Of
vivid colors that is part Of the American
Indian as well as his Southern ancestors.
Lanvin, for example makes black satin
gown for informal evening wear that i: moth
ing but series of straight, primitive panels
falling over a slim, tight, transparent skirt of
periwinkle blue chiffon. The edges of this skirt
are beaded and fringed with periwinkle crys'
tails, in the fashion with which Americans are
peculiarly familiar The bodice is slimly built,
of black satin opening over panel front of the
blue chiffon and crystals, and the long, straight
sleeves, which are not full, but hang far away
from the arm like panel and negiigently
caught into the wrist by tiny bracelet of
crystal and chiffon, are made of the blue,
weighted with great tassels and fringes of
periwinkle crystals.
Both Premet and Worth have adopted
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23

VT IS often said that the fashion experts
dwell too much upon line and material
n and are given to ignoring the extraor-
binary value of colors.
The charge is true. At least, the truth of
it dominates the majority Of dressmaking
houses and is present in the majority Of wom-
ems minds Color is in reality vastly i'm
portant that it should rule every department
of dress There are colorists who overestimate
its value to women, and they are the ones who
actually brighten the majority into conserva-
tism that often borders on ugliness.
The trouble with the artists lies in the fact
that they DO not seem to have any tenderness
or courtesy toward the coloring of the woman
who is to wear thb garment. They assimilate
and put into juxtaposition colors that have
extraordinary beauty in themselves, but when
they are placed next 10 the human skin, hair
and eyes they kill what nature has done. This
is clarifying the artist at the expense Of the
woman in a way that is not fair. The gown
IS predominant; its beauty draws all eyes.
The woman is insignificant; the only time she
comes into the question is when the observers
think how unattractive she looks in that glor-
iOus frOCk
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
ELIZABETHAN COLLAR

and is fastened at the side of the waistln.
will be adopted by young girls for muthers
as substitute for pieces Of fur. They will
make them of plaid silks or cloth and line
them with solid chiffon or ta.eta, the fringed
ends hanging at the back. By the way all ii.
women will wear these scarfs this winter, mad.
of velour and velvet.
The girls suit which is shown in the sketch
is one Of the best of the new frocks that has
come out. The skirt is of green and blue plaid
velour, with Shoulder straps and pockets Of tn.
same. 1t is worn over white muslin blouse
The bel-shaped jacket is of dark green velvet
with collar and cuffs of the plaid.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
The GIittering Back Panel

Doeuiet and Cabot as we'll as some Of the
other important dressmakers, have accentuated
the straight back panel which we once wore
before we adopted the chemse frock. This
panel hangs in the straight, Egyptian manner
from shoulders to heels and glitters with cut
Jet and crystals. 1t is always of transparent
fabrics, but it is never demure or without brill
iant ornaments
Jet, you know, is to be featured this year in
the mos. extraordinary manner. The old jet
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
SLEEVE THAT IS A
BRASSARD

which does not confne the entire width Of the
sleeve. You know that trick; it has been in
fashion for several months and is evidently
not to be relinquished for the next six months.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
Gorgeous Embroideries of Worsted

The accessories which fashion will spring
upon US this month are gorgeous in coloring.
All that need be said is that worsted en-
broidery is in high favor. Sometimes, when
an artist wants to get bit of brilliant color
into an otherwise demure picture, cat play
ing with balls of colored wool is thrown reck-
lessly over the background, and the effect al
ways catches the eye.
Taking this as the foundation Of the work
that is being done by the Paris dressmakers,
we can build ourselves up into some sort Of
colorful picture that will catch the attention
wherever we display ourselves.
A dark blue gown is nothing but dark blue
gown to those who know nothing Of the posi-
blities of combining it with something vivid;
but when against the midnight sky surface is
put design of Che Dakota Indians, done in
wildly colored woollen threads then the dark
blue gown takes to itself a gayety which it has
lacked.
1t is quite true that the designers in Paris
will also minge opposing colors through the
use of double faced materials, but they are evil
IDENTIFY determined to get the very best they can
out of the color scheme in dress by using print
tive embroidery against sombre surface.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23

mines in England, which were once worked by
the monks, have now been reopened in order to
help supply this valuable commodity to the
world of fashion.
France has seen to it that hundreds of yards
of this crystal are faceted and highly pol
ished, then worked into brilliant designs. There
is nothing about it that looks like a coat of
mail, and the rather trivial designs of little
vines and leaves, which were once fashionable,
are left under the cobwebs where they were
put years ago.
For instance, the panel Of black tulls and
cut jet that drops like back curtain behind
the figure of woman in black evening gown
is sumptuously trimmed with jet roses or great
Egyptian figures that hold the panel in place
by sheer weight of material used.
Bodices of cut white jet in daring and strik-
ing designs on white tule or even on hydrangea
blue tulle which is one of the dominant shades
of the hour for the evening, are worn with
skirts of black, flame red or white satin.
There are Grecian gowns from Jenny, made
Of white satin crepe de chine, that have all
their borders in wall-of- Troy design in white
jet.
There are pink satin Algerian skirts with
out the ruffle Of lace which once adorned that
kind of garment. They have bodices of rose
colored jet that looks like the rose quartz which
France used to such an extent for toilet articles
half dozen years ago.
Interesting Evening Sleeves
The separate bodice is not the only unusual
fashion feature in the new gowns for the even
ing. There are exaggerated peasant bodices
that are part of poonaise and the sleeves
are merely enlarged brassards that swing be-
tween the shoulder and the elbow, something
on the order of Mahomets coffin, without any
thing holding them up. There are wide jew
elled straps in the way Of a necklace that cross
the shoulders at the back, the bust in front
then resolve themselves into a kind of waist
band.
One extremely good gown made in this fash
ion is of shrimp pink crepe satin, with over
skirt and bodice of taupe colored velvet. There
is band of dull silver lace on the skirt, and
the shoulder straps of silver cloth are en-
broidered with rose quartz beads.
We have long ago ceased to disregard
young girls own desires in regard to her
clothes, and women have found out that it is
good thing to train their daughters in the
judicious selection of color and the adaptation
of an individual costume for their figures.
The Scotchman who wears his plaid with
great pride is to be initiated by the young girl
of this country, because Paris has put forward
the plaids of the various Scottish clans who
have become celebrated in the war. Even the
great Scotch scarf that goes over the shoulder
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23
Velvet Tunic and Pleated Skirt

The new tunic which has developed fcd
formal afternoon gowns since the first of Sep
TENDER is the long, slim, velvet tunic which il
modelled after those worn by men in thd
twelfth century in England and France. Tho
sketch of this tunic, which is given to-day
shows exactly how one of the well-known minor
dressmakers Of Paris interprets it. Arnold has
produced an amazing lot of good fashions
which have been exploited by leading women
although she is not in the list with Worth
Poret, Cheruit, ct al.
This costume is made up from marrow
knife-pleated skirt of black satin, which is hall
hidden by the sapphire blue chiffon velvet
tunic, which is bordered with a wide band o.
kolnski. There is no belt. The sleeves an
long and tight fitting, and flare over the hand
in the mideval manner. The neckllne is open
and outlined with folded handkerchief Of thf
material. This is deviation from the insist
ent fashion of the high neck buttoned to I'M
chin but all these medieval garments ar1
consistent with the epoch from which they arr
drawn if they have a slight opening Wnie1
ends on straight line below the colaroone
There are women, hundreds of them, who WI
not tolerate the closely fastened neckllne, anq
there must be a deviation from the curren|
fashions to suit them.
These colored velvet tunics, as you see, r(
worn over a separate skirt. 1t is not neces1
sary to use a black satin skirt at all times
Beige velvet or satin, blue and black paid
velour are materials and colors that an
equally acceptable.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1917-09-23

The fashion which was exploited in Paris al
the August openings, and which is already in
America, of wearing separate evening bodice
with brilliant skirt, is sure to succeed, be-
cause it allows a woman to indulge that savage
strain in her which is not quite dead and which
calls for gay coors
Black panne velvet and tule, as well as jet,
have been the fabrics chosen for these separate
bodces, which are put above Algerian skirts OF
satin in any of the blues, greens, reds and
purples that the skin will not tolerate.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
Baltic Fleet Sailors
Shot Down Officers

SAN FRANCISCO, May How
the higher officers of the Russian
Baltic fleet at Helsingfors, the capital
of Finland, were slain during the
Russian revolution and how the ad-
miral himself, tho he had gone over
to the revolution, was also killed, was
related today by G. s. Wes,man, a
shipbuilder of Helsingfors, who has
come here to purchase supplies for
his plant.
During the night of March 16, I
was awakened by shooting I'm the
streets" he said Fighting continued
for two days. the sailors of the Baltic
fleet attacking their officers in their
homes, l have heard estimates as
high as four hundred as the number
of officers killed.
admiral Nepenin, one OF Russia's s
ablest naval commanders, was among
the killed, altho he had gone over to
the new government and was the man
who arrested Governor General Zeyn,
later turning him over to the revolu-
uonary chiefs He was hated by the
sailors. Leaving his ship the last day
of the revolution he noticed n sailor
did not salute him. He reprimanded
him, whereupon the sailor took his
rifle and shot the admiral
The sailors had lists of all officers
and their residences They killed most
of the hig officers and spared the
| younger ones. The sailors did not
harm a single civilian and maintained
order in the city"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
BRAZIL'S NEUTRAL
DECLARATION JUST
MATTER OF FORM

RIO JANEIRO, April 3O.-(De-
layed) lit is explained in official cir
cles here that the brazilian govern
ments declaration OF neutrality in the
war between the United States and
Germany is pure formality intended
TO set forth exactly on the eve Of the
meeting of congress Brazil's position.
As Brazil has merely broken off re-
lations with Germany and is not in n
state of war with that country. IL is
explained she could not fail to make
the conflict between the United States
and Germany the subject of u decla-
ration of neutrality in conformity with
diplomatic usages. However in view
Of the tense situation between Brazil
and Germany and the approaching
meeting OF congress, which will be
called upon to decide this situation.
presidential decree cnjoins upon the
brazilian authorities the observance
of neutrality $50 long as they are not
given orders to the contrary"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
2I TO % LIKELY
TO BE AGES FIXED
. FOR CONSCRIPTION

WASHINGTON, May 1.-Confcr-
cnces on the war army bill, passed for
second time by the senate today
probably will not begin for several
days. Conferecs of the senate and
house Will meet tomorrow, but they
also have the task OF smoothing away
differences over the annual army APP
preparation bill and they will take up
that task first.
But Little Fight.
The senate passed the war army
Dill again today to clear up parlia-
mentary tangles without any pro-
longed discussion and without any
serious effort to revive the strength
over the volunteer system as opposed
to the scloctive draft feature. lSena,
tor La Toilette spoke in support of a
substitute with referendum on rails
ing an army by draft to send to
Europe, but 1t was defeated, 6S to 4.
To Fix Age Limit.
Principal points of difference be-
tween the houses include the so.called
Roosevelt volunteer amendment IN
the senate bill, the difference in the
ages subject to sclective draft, the
senate bill specifying those between
2l to q, and the house 2l to 40. and
the senate bills army prohibition
section.
compromise is EXPECTED on the
age limit, possibly fixing the minimum
AT Il and the maximum at 80. The
mousse representative probably never
VIII accept the Roosevelt amendmen,
which would permit the former prcsi-
dent to raise four infantry divisions
Tor duty on foreign soil.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
MOTHER ATTEMPTS SUICIDE
Il Am HcaItbrokcn" She Writes Be
fore Swallowing Acid.

After writing note saying: "This
is the first of May and am heart
broken" Mrs. Mary Andrews. 522
North Boston, swallowed a large
quantity of carbolic acid shortly be-
fore 2 o'clock last night. At an early
hour her condition was critical.
Relatives were unable to give any
reason for the woman's act. SO far
as knNvn they said, her home life was
happy. A small daughter saw her
mother drink the poison -. then fall
to the floor. The little girl ran to a
neighbor's house for assistance and a
physician was called. 1t is believed
that most of the poison was elected
thru the use of stomach pump.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
IDENTITY MYSTERY
FIGURE KILLED BY
JEALOUS EMPLOYE

DICKINSON. n. D.. May flames
Caldwell, principal in the -. c. r."
idenity mystery case and his wife were
murdered last night by their hired
hand who then shot himself.
The killing at the Caldwell home
near Taylor, n. D.. followed an at
tempt by the hired man to attack
Caldwell's daughter.
The story of the shooting was told
by the girl. Caldwell successfully de,
Tended himself in a suit brought by
y. c. r." known as the Man OF
Mystery" who laid claim to property
held by Caldwell. y. c. r. was
picked up at Waseca, Mimi, and first
brought his claims to notice when in
a Minnesota asylum for the insane.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
BANK CLEARING INCREASE
During April an Average of S1,i57,-
G94.32 for Day was Made.

Bank clearings for the financial in
stitutions OF Tulsa for the month of
April, 1917, showed an increase of
1903 over the corresponding month
of 1916, according to statement is
sued yesterday by w. l.. Probst, man.
ager of the Tulsa Clearing House as
sociation.
According to this report the total
bank clearings for the month of April.
1916 were s13.0S1,963, while those of
April, 1917, reached the wonderful
mark of S36, ,442 ,35S.l4.
Tris grand totals. II divided by the
numter of bankings days for the
month, shows an average of Sl457,-
69432 per day for the month of
April, 1917.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
ENSIGN FALLS FROM
AIRPLANE TO DEATH
Drop Of Thousand Feet Not
Fatal, but Victim browns
Before Aid Comes.

PENSACOLA, Fla. May 1-Ensign
ID. X. Nankirk, L. S. ~, fell one thou,
sand feet in an airplane into Pensa
cola bay here late today and was
drowned before he would be eXtricated
from the floating wreckage of the
machine.
Ensign Nankirk's fall, which oc-
CURED off the naval aviation training
station here, was seen by Lieutenant
stone OF the coast guard who also was
aloft in an airplane. Lieutenant Stone
brought his machine above the point
where Nankirk's wrecked flyer floated
and, dropping into the water, swan
to aid his comrade. 1t was forty min
utes before Van kinks body could be
released from the wreckage. All ef-
forts to resuscitate him proved futile
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
By Associated Press

The possibility of peace terms be-
ing advanced by Germany and the in
ternal political situation in that coun-
try arising from dissatisfaction of the
workmen over present conditions are
features in the news of the world war
which for the moment take prece-
dence over the military operations on
the fighting fronts.
Thursday may prove an eventful
day for Germany and the entire
world. Announcement is made by a
prominent Berlin newspaper that the
German imperial chancellor on that
day will make another offer for peace
in an address to the reichstag. What
the proffer of the chancellor will en-
brace has not been even remotely
made known
Little News Comes Out.
May day passed in Germany with
little news coming out TO show the
exact situation with regard to the
unrest of the workmen, as result Of
which it has been predicted that great
strikes might result. A brief Berlin
dispatch said the efforts of the radical
Socialists to bring about a cessation
of work In munitions factories had
failed and that no disturbances had
occurred in Berlin Unofficial ad-
vices, however, were that strikes had
been declared by munition workers in
the Rhine provinces and that Essen.
the home of the great Krupp works,
had been isolated from the world 80
far as news was concerned to prevent
information regarding strikes in the
Krupp works from leaking out.
King George Worried.
Germany's intensified submarine
campaign apparently is causing con-
siderable uneasiness in England. King
George. 1t is announced, shortly will
issue a proclamation asking the peo-
pie to cut down their consumption of
foodstuffs by 25 per cent In parlia-
ment various members are harassing
the admiralty by demanding that 1T
make public the exact number of
boats sunk by submarines.
Two more steamers have been sent to
the bottom by the undersea boats
the British steamer Ballarat with
troops bound from Australia for Eng
land and the steamer Gorilla flying
the Uruguayan flag. All the troops
on board the Ballarat and the crew of
the Gorilla were saved. What steps
Uruguay, neutral state. will take
with regard to the sinking of one of
her steamers Is problematical.
Get Many Airplancs.
III hoiludy ar lighting II herman
airplanes were accounted for by
British ayiators while the Britishers
themselves admit that nine of their
machines are missing.
During April 1885 Germans were
made prisoners by the British, who
also captured 257 guns and howitzers
including 9S heavy guns and howti-
zers; 227 trench mortars and 470 ma
chine guns. In addition numerous
enemy guns of all caliber were de-
stroyed by the British artillery fire.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
U-Boats Are Off in Lead and
Famine Threatens, Asserts
Lord Percy.

WASHINGTON, May l. Tho
United States has already placed Il
considerable amount of ship tonnage
at the disposal of the entente allies.
Lord Eustace Percy, ship expert,
with the British mission. said today
that the government had supplied
certain vessels to be used according
to the allies needs, but refused to in
dicate that they were or If they were
the seized German ships.
Lord Percy declared the present
rate Of British construction of ships
and the present estimated American
rate could not keep pace with the
present rate of destruction by subma-
rines.
"The balancing figure in the world
struggle" said Lord Percy, sis the
tonnage the United States can sup
ply"
Made Co-Opcration.
Lord Percy's announcement was
the first intimation that the shipping
conferences had actually resulted In
Iany agreement. 1t was taken as q
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
EXCHANGE PRISONERS, PLEA
"Shamc to Torture Good and Brave
Soldiers" Says Alfonso.

Madrid. via Paris, May IL (5.am)
King Alfonso is working hard to OBJ
tain the consent of all the warning
governments to the exchange Of pris
oners OF war captured in the early
battles of the war. In an audience
given recently to Deputy Prat of Yer
saillos, the king said:
1T would be a humane work to
end the torture which these good and
brave soldiers have been undergoing
for thirty months"
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
Petrograd Celebrates
MAY Day Unmolested

PETROGRAD. (via London, May
1.-THE Russian capital today inau-
surated its first great May day fete
without fear of opposition from any
reactionary quarter. The weather
was beautiful and numberless persons
passed along the streets thruout the
day.
Everything passed off in perfect or
der altho a million persons partici-
pated in the parades The govern
ment had proclaimed the day a gen
eral holiday and all the government
offices and even the restaurants in
the city were closed
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02

100 MILLIONS FOR FRANCE
italy Also VIII Get That Sum From
America Immediately.

WASHINGTON. May l. - The
amount of the first loans to France
and Italy. Secretary McAdoo an
nounced tonight will be 800, 900, 900
each They will be made Immediately
to meet the requirements of those
countries in May. The first Install
ment about $25.000,O00 of the Ital-
morrow.
A loan to Russia will also be made,
Mr.. McAdoo stated, and the loan to
Belgium is under consideration.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
HOLD BERNSTORFF RELATIVE
Baron Mucnch, Under an Alias, Ar
rested at san Francisco.

San Francisco May baron Al
hard Won den Besscha Muench, said
to be related to Count Won Bernstorff,
formerly German ambassador to the
United States, is held here today upon
orders from Washington as an alien
enemy of the government. Under the
name of Kurt Drummer, Muench ar
rived in a California port several
days ago from the orient and was
detained. Government officials said
Muench travelled as the son of a Swiss
shipbuilder.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02
ROEBLING CATCHES BURGLAR
But Aged Millionaire Couldn't Hold
Prey; Loses $1,000 Stone.

TRENTON. N. j.. May Charles
E. Roebllng, the aged president Of the
John A. Roebling Sons company. dis
covered a burglar hiding behind a
screen in his home here early today.
He pushed the screen over on the in
truder and then jumped on top of 1t,
at the same time calling for help The
burglar was too powerful for the
older man and soon fought himself
loose. Before servants reached Mr..
Roeblings room the man had made
his escape, taking with him a pin
valued at $4,000.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1917-05-02

forerunner of very wide degree OF
cooperation in which the present
tonnage and the future building
powers of this country will be pooled
with the allies to defeat the German
submarine menace.
Lord Percy stated that the British
mission had supplied the American
government with every detail of the
shipping, Including the total allied
tonnage, the destruction Ivy the u
boats, tho irreducible needs of the
allies; the present rate Of construc-