The herald., 1917-12-27

fact that We have been 49,,
win 'nIlncss in clothes and I's J,
sight Of such gown 'a a; The vsy
~queawish attack Of sar,os sl'es Us
tIo4 H., 1t is almost unbear ,a, lnalsss
to to. HOOK upon looped, par +I.e today
irI'Ied or beaounced cos, tut'ed BE-
wore noopskirts, even thOnNs We
were discussed under the nous n TIE,
farthIngaie, until we felt "an Of he
look at a barrel, and it Is ua to
bic for either the French or ~, TO' posi-
lean designers to comnel ~ .ue Amer.
our attention to such clo,b ~ 70 'um
immediate future. 10 Tie
We want slimness. We loo.
best in siimneSS, and We are Oo Uu' 7eg
ing 70 wear less material Sui'e viii.
the Civil war, but We are tired ' y Vice
MICS. our trouble is that y, VI u
want a return to the small v cs a0At
viii not nave more material rn ,N We
our clothes and We insist ru' 'al0
straight line from armhO!e 70 n apOl
something must be done ui, pS Out
skirts If our palate for Clothes - OG
tickled any further. ""@
Under the influence of mi.
thence and annoyance with . oaa upa'
uity Of line in clothes. tbero :.
reason why something approocS,. "
tie-back skirt and the hustle ~ ,o .e
81 should not appear quite rrodn.".
over the horizon for the bette, O,a''
Of clothes. ''"s
You know by this time. of cor,,.
that the hustle is nothing mora ,1s'
n hideous word for Bit n, ..a
drapery arranged to break the s.,'
and often inartistic line across \.
figure at the end of the spine TN,
drapery Is the saving grace on ro,,,i.
types of broad, stout figures Il ma,
be almost impossible to believe t,,
among this race of hat-hlpped lOu,.
limbed, slim-chested. bic.waISss
American women, which the last ,eD
years have produced, there are nm
women, and many of them, who have
what Is called the ancient figure a,
course, 1t Is not the ancient fkure 4,
all, for that Is the new figure to which
all modernists aspire, but what TIA
dressmakers mean by the phrase il q,
1880 figure. which has never been Con.
trolled or suppressed or even tresed
with contempt by certain segment q
American women. Chests out, siou-
achs In, hips rounded and waists
frightened Is the artificial figure that
was stamped upon three generations
Of American women and has not en-
! tirely died out.
There are other women who have
long since forgotten that they ever
had waist, but they cannot submery
the flesh around their hips and back
and they look their worst In ehemiR
tunic and sandwich gowns. There
fore, the hustle drapery Is for then
If the dressmakers can handle Il Inl
manner that suggests novelty md
achieves artistic results, we shsl. prob
ably see it in the foremost fashions
Now as to the French bustle-it was
copied from the Directoire period and
taken, like all the Dlrectolre clOtha
from the fashions of a century befOs
Napoleon aspired to control Of Franz
1t merely transpOses the drapey
the Americans use it, from the back
to the front.
Bulloz Is the apostle Of this hustle
if you can call the drapery In fraui
by that name. Bulloz, through hs
color schemes and his daring, hs
assumed something of the widespread
authority in clothes that Ptul PolTa
held, undisputed, until he went to var
Bulloz dips his hands deep into nls
tory, pulls out anything his hnsen
can grasp and puts all that be hns
into the most modern of clothes. Two
years ago his efforts were not taxa
seriously In this country; today iH
the designers over here who wish %
cater 10 an exclusive patronage OV
freely of Bulloz.
Copyright, 1917, by the Mcclure Nsvps
per Syndicate.)