davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-04-27

ASH1ON has chosen quiet tones
for afternoon costumes this year.
She leaves her bright reds, her
vivid green's and her orange for the
sports or country costume, the one
that 10 to be worn on the links or
while taking the morning walk or
vhile enjoying the cool, OF the the
piazza, or indulging in any similar
recreation. For the afternoon visit,
for the afternoon tea and for the
promenade, the quiet tones relieved
by bits Of color in the trimming or
in the embroidery or in the stitching.
are liked. There is great deal Of
Paisley material used and it is really
beautiful against beige or tan or
grey. When the entire costume is
made of broadcloth or similar material
in a quiet tone, not infrcquently,
machine stitching is done in color,
and it is astonishing what wonderful
contrasts the best designers effect.
The new French serge that is exceed
ingly light of weight and which drapes
beautifully, is pronounced favorite.
also the gabardine which is especially
beautiful in texture, but we WILL OF
course, wear great many silks.
Charmeuse is being extensively worn
and crepe de chine serves numberless
uses, while there are very lovely
foulards that will make ideal after
noon costumes for the Spring and
Summer. The genuine pongee or
in the natural color can be
made most attractive and most beau
tiful by combination with little bits
IF brightness. for it makesfan ideal
background and foil. On OF the
pretty combinations and ons that is
shown in the illustration is sott srey
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-04-27

A wonderful, three-piece suit that
also halls from Paris is Of rose colored
wool jersey embroidered with purple
soutache. Until you have seen that
combination. you do not realize how
charming it can be. 1t is original and
therein lies its charm, but with the
wisdom Of the French designer the
braid is used very -sparingiy for only
little of the purple is required to get
the effect. There is one-piece chemise
gown that is draped over the hips and
the seams Of the coat are open to the
belt to allow the fullness to give its
full effect. 1t is in such ways that
the broad hips. the barrel effect or the
tonneau skirt often is achieved. A
very charming suit designed for
young girl is of very blue twill of a
new and beautiful weave which shows
embroidery in cerise sparingly used.
1t is exceedingly interesting to note
how these bits Of bright color are
effective and how blue can be made
the background for such an infinite
variety Of color effects The blue
suit by no means is prosaic useful
garment. 1t can be developed into
almost anything If the designer or
the dressmaker or the wearer has the
artists eye 1t is not every purple
that will look we'll on the rose, it is
not every shade of blue can be used
with cerise. One must be color en-
thusiast or color expert to make
daring ventures Of her own. For the
less gifted it is wise to follow in the
wake of those Of know how Expert
ment is apt to mean failure and
failure is sad to contemplate at all
times, perhaps especially so this season
when economy must be the watch
word and wastefullness of any sort
is to be avoided with all the strength
and vim that one can bring to consid
Grafton.
There are all sorts of pretty fancies
that are evident in advance designs.
but perhaps there is nothing that
strikes one as more dainty and Spring
like than the use of white pique for
accessories Of the street costume. In
many instances it makes facing for
coat collar and again it makes a
waistcoat. and by the way, waistcoats
will be extensively worn. Not a few
OF the new coats are closed at the
throat to fall apart as they approach
the waist line and that treatment
always makes waist coat smart If
not essential. An exceedingly beau
tiful costume of the sort is made of
grey eabardine with vest of heavy
white linen crash but more often one
sees pique than any other material
and pique may fairly be counted upon
as an exceedingly smart material for
waistcoats and collars and cuffs and
all the needs of the street costume
A very smart suit shows big haring
cuffs of the white pique and quite
novel collar OF the stole order that
would completely transform any COS
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-04-27

tune. Pique facings for the collars
Of the coats are used; too, and white
is always pretty and becoming. making
an excellent effect.
Stenciling and even painting are
being employed to decorate our cos
tunes and some exceedingly good
effects are obtained. A sports dress
Of tussah is made with long, loose
srnock-like coat that is loosely held
by narrow belt and its edges show
stenciling in gold color and coral that
is most attractive on the dark back
ground and we read Of stenciling and
even Of painting being used upon
evening costumes. As matter of
course. the stenciling is, perhaps, in
better taste although if painting is
rightly handled. it is astonishing
what charming effects can result
Like many another fancy it is. after
all. only revival for treatment Of
the sort was used to some extent in
the latter part of the last century
The writer has in mind wedding
gown Of white satin with the daintiest
painting of orange blossoms that was
charming in its way. Stenciling has
been used upon hats and upon sports
costumes and in variety Of ways
where very brilliant effects were
desired with considerable success for
number Of months. in fact, it was
in vogue last season. but the work OF
the daintier sort is comparatively new
and if the stencils are we'll chosen
really very charming border effects
can be obtained quite as well as the
big. bold flower ornamentations and
the big conventional, Oriental-like
figures that were the first to appear.
There must be the proper mediums
Of course, but any dealer in artist
supplies can supply them. Women
who are clever in adapting new ideas
should be able to put the treatment
to good use. So much gay color is
used in what are known as sports cos
tunes. but which really are those de
signed for the lookers-on and for
country wear much more than for the
actual participation of sports. that
there is a sort of reaction to be felt
in those that are offered for afternoon
occasions, and beige and tan and grey
and lovely quiet tones of the sort seem
to predominant. with white, quite As
matter of course. They may be and
indeed, they are often relieved with
little bright color. but the foundation
color is quiet in tone and since quiet
tones make ideal backgrounds tor EN-
broidery and for treatments OF such
sort they are quite certain to maintain
their vogue.
How far the barrel or tonneau skirt
will make its way is little uncertain.
It is shown by some Of the best de-
signers and absolutely ignored by
Others. Women tf America will be
free to choose whether they will or will
not exploit it.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-04-27
w WHEREVER one turns, in what
w ever direction indications for

" IHEREVERo one turns, in what
w ever direction indications for
the coming season are to be
met, there is very renewed evidence
Of the fact that we are to have
season Of made trimmings, that is,
Of embroideries and of materials
put to wonderful uses and of covered
buttons and the like. As matter
Of course, designers and dressnakers
are not exploiting the fact that to
great extent this is due to necessity,
but it nevertheless is true that there
is a shortage Of trimmings scarcely
to be understood until one has started
out upon some special hunt. Just
few weeks ago, it was quite impossible
to find anywhere here in Old Gotham.
black silk braid of any sort but the
plain hercules. 1t is absolutely I'M
wise to stay at home and determine
what is wanted. One must take what
she can get or create trimmings for
herself. Happily there is a very great
source Of suggestion for embroideries
and treatments to be found in all the
French models. The designers OF that
wonderful land are adopts, and the
ingenuity they have displayed under
these conditions gives in itslef proof
of genius. Unless one we're initiated,
it would scarcely be thought that
necessity had anything to do with the
situation. Material frayed out to form
its own fringe is not new. in fact
straight little fringes of the sort are
very familiar in family portraits
Paquin has made an entirely new
blouse with the frayed-out silk treated
in way all his own. The material is
white brocaded crepe and the blouse
is belted. extending we'll below the
hips it is full at the shoulders and
closed invisibly at the back as are
many of the new models and it has
round neck cut out little below the
collar line and long close fitting sleeves
and pockets that hang from the belt
in novel and altogether fascinating
way. The belt, each pocket, little
bit on the front and each sleeve is
embroidered all in white, but the touch
of absolute distinction is found in the
fIayed out material that is placed at
the stitching of the hem and which
finishes the neck and sleeves The
fraying is made deep enough to allow
the fringe to give a curled effect and
just at a glance it suggests ostrich.
One studies before she realizes how the
effect is produced. You can put ma
chine stitching to numberless uses.
One of the most attractive suits OF the
season from the house Of Landin is
of white serge and its trimming il
machine stitching in navy blue. That
stitching forms bands and these bands
consist OF zigzag lines that require
precision but no great amount OF skill
and there is a blue patent leather
belt that is narrow and held by slides
that completes the costume. The
coat is quite novel for it slips on over +.
the head
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
STREET CARMEN
 N0T 7O STRIKE 0N SEPTEMBER z
T. M. Simpson, Chairman of Garments Committee.
 Says Date Be Later.

Nothing new developed yesterday in the local street car situation, as result of the demand presented to the Pine Bluff company by the car men for an increase of cents an hour in wages.
 T. M. Simpson, chairman of the committee appointed by the carmen's union Tuesday morning, when the strike vote was taken, to present the demand to the company, said yester- day that an erroneous impression had been created in regard to the threat ened strike.
 "The date for the strike has not been set," said MT. Simpson. Our to the company simp- ly stated that unless we heard from them by the 22nd strike will be ordered. The date will be set later"
 MT. Simpson also pointed out that the men arc now paid from 20 cents to 25 cents an hour, and are asking q straight 3-cent increase to make the rates of pay g to 2S cents per hour. He said the flagmen at the railroad crossings are the only men in the service who earn as much as SS6 to $50 month. and that they are paid 2- cents an hour more than the high est amount paid carmen. MT. Simp- son said also that there is no run of less than il hours. the runs being. he said. from il hours to 12 hours and 5o minutes. Extra men some- times work less, he said, but the average days work for carmen is about 12 hours.
 The men are paid according to the length of term in the service, Mr. Simpson said. receiving 20 cents an hour for the first six months, 21 rents from six to twelve months, 22 cents the second year, 23 cents the third year. "A cents the fourth year. and p cents the fifth year and after ward.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
HOLLAND RECALLS
 MINISTER TO U. 5.
Cheyalier van Rappard To Be Suc- ceeled by M. van ROyen, Who
 Married Boston Girl.

Washington, Sept 14.-The Nether- lands minister to the United States, Cheva!ier w. L. F. C. van Rappard, has been recalled by his government, and today he called upon Secretary of State Lansing to announce the fact and to ask if Mynheer van Royen, who has been chosen to succeed him. will be acceptable.
 Chevalier van Rappard, who has been minister here for four years, will be transferred to an European post probably to a diplomatic position in his own country He said that the matter of his transfer had been first reached last February, but that no de- cision was reached until recently.
 The new minister, MT. van Royen, was formerly secretary of the lega- tion here and has had considerable diplomatic experience He married Miss Winthrop of Boston.
 During the time when Count von Bernstorff was German ambassador here. M. von Rappard was said to be extremely friendly with the count. and was criticised on that account. But as matter of fact, those who were friends of both diplomats say, they were on no closer terms than other members of the diplomatic corps. sFaA Mal
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
krymoff Suicides.
SHIPWRIGHTS STRIKE. As Result. Many At Seattle May Be
 Drafted Into Army.

Seattle, Wash, Sept. 14.-Approxi- mately 1,5O0 shipwrights, joiners and laborers went on strike today, tieing up number of wooden shipbuilding plants.
 The strike order came yesterday as climax to the battle of organized labor to enforce the eight-hour day in lumber and shingle mills. Union workers have been called off of every Job where lumber manufactured in ten-hour plants was being used union leaders said.
 Shipyard workers who have been granted exemption from the army oraft on industrial grounds who strike today in obeyance of the strike call will be automatically cer- tlfled for service it was announced by the district board today.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
Associated Press Sumnary)

N1AooOCAdLCu IICSS SuniflafY.)
 The crest of Monte San Gabrielle commanding the plain of Gorizia to the south and southeast and the Prig- 1dio valley to the east, has been cap tured by the Italians after three weeks of the most bitter fighting, the Italian embassy at Washington an nounces. This news of the victory, probably the greatest feat of Italian arms thus far in the war, precedes the latest official report from Rome. Fridays statement from the Italian war office says that on Thursday the fighting on the entire Austro-Italian front was impeded by heavy rains.
 The Italian effort to capture San Gabrielle began after. the taking of Monte Santa, directly north, by Gen eral Cadorna's troops on August 25. Several times the Italians have reach ed the summit of the great mountain, so important to their further progress east of Gorizia, as we'll as on the Car so, only to be driven back again. On the slopes of the rugged rock in the last few weeks there has been some of the heaviest and most sanguinary fighting of the war, with the Italians hurling themselves forward in des- perate attacks and the Austrians hold ing to the crest just as desperately.
 San Gabriele's top was occupied by the Italians, the embassy reports, af- ter the fortified hill or saddle of Doll and the Gargaro basin, the main bulk of San Gabrielle, had been taken. The however, still cling to some
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
BLOCKS
 WAR CREDITS MEASURE
Wisconsin Insists Upon Consideration Today of Several Pro-
 posed Amendments.

Washington, Sept. 14.-The war credits bill was taken up by the sen ate today and prepared for passage tomorrow in about the form it pass Cd the house by unanimous vote last night.
 Hopes of senate leaders to dispose of the measure today were blocked by Senator LaFollette. who insisted upon consideration of some amend ments tomorrow.
 It is conceded that no changes af- fecting the amount of bonds, $11, ,53S,- 100000, or their interest rates will be made, and that the bill will pass practically by unanimous conset.
 Today's debate was perfunctory, with an average attendance of sena- tors below a dozen.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
FRENCH UNIFIED.
 SOCIALISTS N0I :: :,
 IN NEW CABINET
Painleve Finally Determines To Form Cabinet With
 out Their Aid.

Paris, Sept. 14.-The new French
 ministry formed by Prof. Paul Pain leve, who, in addition to becoming
 premier, will continue to act as min-
 ister of war, follows:
 Foreign affairs, Alexander Ribot; minister of justice, Raoal Peret; min ister of the interior, Jules Stegg
 minister of marine, Charles Chaumet; j; minister of munitions, Louis Louch- eur; minister of finance, Louis Luc- fen Klontz; minister of colonies, Rene Beshard; minister of trans ports, Albert 'Claveille; minister of education, Daniel Vincent; minister of labor Andre Renard; minister of commerce, Etienne Clementel; minis ter of agriculture, Fernamd David; minister of provisions, Maurice Long; minister for missions abroad, Frank lin Boullon.
 Four ministers of state, who also are members of the war council are Louis Barthou, Leon Bourgeois, Paul Doumer and Jena Dupuy.
 Socialists Not Represented.
 The political groups represented in the new ministry do not include the unified Socialists. Premier Pain leve repro sents the Socialist-Repub- lican group, while the Socialist radi- calls have three members, the radical left three. the Republican union of the senate two, the Republican union of the senate two, the Republicans of the left one, and the Radical Re- public Union seven members Seven members of the Ribot ministry retain places in the new cabinet. The most noted perhaps of the Ribot ministry to go are Rene Viviani and Albert Thomas.
 The Ribot ministry failed last Sum- day night when M. Thomas withdrew and Prof. Paul Painleve followed him, being unwilling to remain in a cabinet where the unified Socialists were not represented Prof. Pain leve's firm combination met the same fate late Tuesday night when the uni fled Socialists also refused to CO., operate with him principally because Ribot remained as min- ;ster. As President Poincare insisted l that Prof. Painleve continue his eff forts to form cabinet ministry, he l resolved on Wednesday night not to give the Socialists representation.
 These events are expected to show | that the new ministry will start life | without the assurance of active sup port from the unified Socialists. The l role played by the unified Socialists the crisis is generally con- 1emned by the press as comparable o that of the workmen's and soldiers delegates in Russia.
 Thomas Explains Opposition.
 Paris, Sept. 14.-Albert Thomas, So- ,ialist member of the war council.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
Railroad Officials Reticent.

'Pittsburg, Pa, Sept. 14.-Railroad officials here refused to comment on a dispatch from Steubenville, Ohio. stating a troop train had been fired upon near that place tonight. They would not say whether the train had arrived or passed thru tiis city. but declared it probable that if the troops were destined for some eastern point the train would be routed so as not to pass thru Pittsburg.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
Agreement Upon About Half of the Provisions of
 Biz Bill Reached.
|R1G INCOMES TO PAY LARGER TAXES
roufurees Eliminate Provision for In. crease in 1916 Taxes, Increase
 
 Tax on IntOxicants, and Low. CT Levy on Tobacco.

Washington, Sept. 14.-Agreement .,pon about half of the revenue levies in the $2,416,O0O,OOO war tax bill was
 reached today by the senate and
 house conferees in their first days work, Such rapid progress was made that the principal disputes were mar lowed to the war profits and postage
 sections, foreshadowing complete agreement early next week.
 While conclusions of conferees are said to be tentative, there is little probability of other changes in the yections passed over.
 The committees sessions are secret It the request of Representative
 zitchin, but it is reliably stated that khe results of the first meeting i'm Elude:
 Adoption of the income tax normal Ind surtax rates virtually as revised
 y the senate, and designed to raise )S42200,000 additional revenue.
 Elimination of the house provisions eyying one-third increase in 1916 tax 7, a retroactive assessment by which Id0S,OOO,O ,OOO was to be raised.
 Partial approval of the tobacco sec ions revised downward by the senate b raise $56,600,O00, as against $6S,- 100000 proposed by the house. . Adoption of the intoxicating bever- ges section virtually as revised up lard by the senate to raise $207 .0O0,- Do as compared with $151 100000 s proposed by the house.
 Approval of practically all senate khanges in the section taxing public Utilities, including the three per cent. eyy on freight transportation, reduc- d from $75,O0O,0OO to $37,500,000. The |axes on Pullman accomodations, pipe lne transportation, and telephone and telegraph messages costing over 15 (ents. The house conferees also agreed b the elimination of their provision pr levying $3O,O0O,0OO on electric, (as anl local telephone service, and (5,0COO0O on issuance of insurance )0licies. The war profits section was passed (ver today and probably will be the ] bst settled. Some members predict an increase l n its total provisions at least $100,- l lOO,0OO, and the adoption of a com |romise calculation plan being fram- d by house members.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
Cadorna's Troops Capture
 Summit of Mt. San Gahriplp
Italians Achieve Control of Dominating Position After Three Weeks of Most Desperate Fighting
 Since They Entered War.
faces on the mountain side

places on the mountain side.
 In the forest of Tarnovo, east of Monte San Gabrielle, the Italians cap- tured positions from the Austrians after suffering heavy losses.
 Little Fighting in West.
 Except along the Classmates pla- teau on the Aisne front there has been no marked activity on the other fight ing fronts. A German attack against French positions on the Classmates plateau, Paris reports, was repulsed with heavy losses. Berlin says Ger man troops penetrated to the second French line, and inflicted severe cas- ualties.
 The British artillery fire in Fan ders, Berlin reports, has increased to drumfire.
 Russian Situation Beclouded.
 The political situation ill Russia is still somewhat beclouded. The re- volt of General Korniloff apparently has failed dismally but the former commander-in-chief has not yet sur rendered to the provisional govern ment.
 General Krymoff, commander of the Korniloff forces sent against Petro- grad committed suicide by shooting when informed by Premier Kerensky of the probable fate that awaited him.
 Premier Kerensky has begun to reconstruct the government, some of his former ministers apparently op- posing the taking of drastic measures against General Korniloff and his aides.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
COUNTY BOARD
 CALLS EIGHT
 FOR NEW ARMY

Eight white registrants, accepted
 pr service in the National army,
 'ere sent notices yesterday by local
 oard No. 2 of Jefferson county to
 old themselves in readiness for mill Fary service. They will be called to ysport on Sept. 19 to go to Camp [lKe, and probably will be the only
 len from the Jurisdiction of board Eo. to report with the 40 per cent pe,fement, which is. to be composed Pnly of white men.
 Those notified yesterday that they Pave been accepted for service are: Albert Gilham,. Langford. Albert Melton, Plum Bayou. Ia Rltchey, Rt 4, Pine Bluff. James Fred Anderson, Kedron, Giaud Hughes, Plum Bayou. James Lee, Tucker.
 zoe Adams, Wabbaseka.
 Alvln F. Young, Pine Bluff.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15
ROLLERS IN STEEL
 MILLS GET BIG PAY

Youngstwon. O., Sept 14.-Several rollers in steel mills here are earn ing as much as $500 a month, or at a rate of approximately $10,O0O a year. as result of increases grant ed in a recent agreement with Amalgamated Association workers. according to managers of the plants. Heaters, roughers and other skilled workers are able to make SIP to $15 daily.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1917-09-15

under the Ribot ministry, in a state ment to the Journale today. declares that his refusal to collatorate with either former Premier Ribot or with Prof. Paul Painleve. the present pre- mier. in forming cabinet. was not because of personalities involved but because of the question of the govern ment's program and especially of the will to carry it out.
 Neither he nor his party, M. Thomas said. had ever placed veto on any pafticular person.. What he criticised and what led to his withdrawal, not ..withstanding many points in com mon with both the present and for mer premiers, was the general com position of the cabinet. and the lack of program for reorganization.