davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18
w IE are living in an exceedingly

" IE are living in an exceedingly
w interesting period in spite of
its tragedies. Nearly, if not
quite, unprecedented conditions exist.
There are inevitable shortages in GER
tain directions, yet, to the casual OBJ
server everything is beautiful, every
thing is abundant, there is every OPP
portunity for the making Of handsome
and satisfactory costumes.
Simple Embroideries are Used
with Good Effects.
1t has been stated again and again
that dyes are scarce and the supply
of fabrics more or less curtailed, but
a trip through the shops would hardly
suggest any such condition. There are
really wonderfully beautiful materials
and there is certain splendid color
apparent that is noticeable. What
ever we lack for the Spring, we do not
lack color. There is certain shortage
in applied trimmings, but it is being
more than compensated for in the
clever way in which embroideries are
handled. If the necessity for such
finish has done nothing else, it has
unqucstionably established the needle
won,an's art. 1t is astonishing what
beautiful effects few simple stitches
can produce. A very lovely afternoon
gown that is to make part of a Feb
ruary trousseau of Georgette crepe
in wonderful shade Of yellow that has
depth and quality and at the same
time is light in tone The skirt is
finely plated and just below the hips
to give suggestion Of yoke line.
there is little embroidery across
the front and back that shows
design of a conventionalized wild
rose with leaves. The petals of the
roses are all outlined with black,
within this outline they are darned
with rose color and occasional gold
threads and the leaves are darned
with green. 1t makes most attractive
finish, 1t gives a very beautiful color
effect and the work is sketchy, it is so
slight. The very newest blouses, too,
are Of the Georgette crepe that seems
to fit the purpose as nothing else quite
does, braided with little straw braid
used just as soutache would be, and
if readers, any of them, have hidden
away in the treasure houses Of the
past, costumes that belong to the
middle of the last century, these
straw trimmed gowns will be found.
They we're regarded as very chic in
those days and some Of the effects
that can be produced are charming.
Today we use the straw on Georgette
crepe. Our grandmothers and great
grandmothers used it upon taffeta,
and the taffeta Of that day was a
heavier silk than the taffeta of the
present. but nevertheless, the color
effects remain.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18
A Dainty Night Gown and How
1t can be Made and How
Embroidered : By May Manton

tration, the neck and the sleeve edges
of the N-shaped gown are underfaced
and finished with machine helnstitch
ing that is very pretty, but instead
of that hennstitching, they could be
scalloped using very fine scallops, or
you could undertake and use tiny
little insertion as finish in place OF the
hemstitching, or you could undertake
and attach the facing with some fine
fancy stitchery, as briar stitch or
succession of French knots. = The
slashes for the ribbon require to be
worked as eyelets, that is to say, cut
the slit, then push the material up on
the wrong side and work closely over
and over using fine embroidery
thread for the purpose. Now you will
be ready for the figures on each side
of the front.
Transfer these to the material, using
an iron that is hot but not scorching.
Outline the stems and work the re-
mainder of the design either solidly or
as eyelcts or partly solidly and partly
as eyelets as you prefer. A pretty
effect can be obtained by making the
daisies and the leaves as cyelets and
the dots all in solid work, but each
individual will like to decide just how
that design should be treated, and it
is possible to make number of varia
tons, simple as it is.
To make eyele,s, punch with
stiletto then push the material back
and work closely over and over. For
solid work, darn backward and forward
lengthwise Of the figure and work over
and over in the opposite direction.
When the embroidery is completed,
press and for the purpose use turkish
towel folded several times.
To make the gown with round neck
and the sleeves, the edges are to be
scallopcd and the designs arranged
one on the front and one at each side.
For the scallops, work chain stitch
between the lines, heavy at the centers
and lighter at the points, or cut skein
of thread and apply two or more
strands over the design, lacking here
and there in COUGHING style and draw
closely together at each point, then
buttonhole closely over the padding.
Mark on the garment the pertorations
in the pattern that indicates the lines
for the V-shaped neck and the sleeve
less arm-holes. Apply lace insertion
over these lines. Basic carefully ard
firmly into place, then whip each edge
firmly to the material with tiny close
stitches and when you have done this,
cut the fabric away beneath the lace
to geHshc transparent effect.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

have these, you can make your own
gowns with certain success. Among
the costumes shown here, for example,
there is not one that is in any way
difficult or elaborate. Coat suits seem
planned with simplicity in mind. Any
woman who can cut and sew should be
able to make them.
The two frocks designed for young
girls give evidence of different effects.
but both are plated and plaits make
a notable feature of the incoming
fashions. You may have a straight
skirt that is all plated or you may have
skirt that combines plaits with plain
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

spaces or you may have frock that
shows either box plaits or side plaits
attractively used. but you must have
plaits found somewhere in your yard
robe if you will be quite up-to-date.
The box plated frock illustrated
shows pretty new monks collar and
draped pockets that make very smart
features, and they seem especially we'll
adapted to the younger contingent.
Slightly open neeks with long sleeves
are shown in the greater number OF
new frocks and unquestionably the
combination will make feature Of the
incoming season.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

buttons. and buttonholes to be made.
The sleeveless gown with the N-shaped
opening and the Empire ribbon is very
charming and very dainty for warm
weather wear. For the colder nights,
the round neck with the sleeves will
undoubtedly be preferred. For that
gown, lace insertion is applied over
the lines in the pattern on which the
gown with the V-shaped neck is cut out
The gown is cut all in one piece, on
the fold of the material, and if that
material is not wide enough you will of
necessity be compelled to join selvaged
edges to obtain the width The best
plan to follow is to make the gown
before the embroidery is done. To
do this, sew the seams with fine
stitches, taking what is known as
back stitch and " o running stitches
at one time, thu, trim off one edge of
the seam. Turn the other edge under
and hem down onto the gown itself to
make a fiat fell finish, which is the
simplest and pleasantest and the
prettiest for garments of the sort. You
could make the French fell or the
double seams, but it is scarcely less
labor and it does not make as pretty
or as attractive finish. In the illus.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

tendency toward simplicity that is
charming. Fabrics are very beautiful,
colors are exquisite and even bright
and it is only by such simple designs
that such effects can be utilized of
their best.
For morning occasions when one
may motor or play tennis or golf or
ride the wheel or indulge in any fancy
Of the sort there are great many
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

that are really fascinating. They are
essentially girl-like and they make
very pleasant contrast to the coat
suits that have become so generally
accepted.
Girls who like to tramp the country
whatever the seasop find the simple
one-piecc frocks desirable, and serge.
linen and cotton gabardine are favoite
materials.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

Without doubt there is certain
fascination to be found in what we
know as the outdoor or sports costume,
but the afternoon gowns this season
are so charming that they are close
rivals. The one that is shown here
gives especially good lines and can
appropriately be copied in great
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

HESE are chic models designed
especially to be worn at the
~ Southern resorts. AS matter Of
course they forecast the coming of the
Spring fashions. What the fortunate
few wear in the South during the
Winter, the majority Of womankind
I will wear all oyer the country when
Summer is at its height For the
younger contingent there is notable
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18

TRESENT fashions seem especially
designed in the interests of the
home dressmaker. The models
are simple, there are no intricacies and
no special difficulties in the making
Of any garment. What is needed is
certain sense of color and Of fitness and
q eye to get the correct lines. If you
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1916-1918, 1917-05-18
Only the Modified Barrel Skirts
are Likely to Succeed.

We hear great deal Of talk about
the barrel skirt, but very few real
barrel skirts have been seen at all,
By some strange perversion Of terms,
a great many of the fashion writers
and designers both are talking of the
skirt that is draped over the hips as
the barrel skirt. Really that wonder
full creation is distended by means
of hoops and is drawn in again at the
ankles, otherwise it does not deserve
its name. 1t is not pretty line, it is
not becoming line and it is hardly
likely to succeed, on this side of the
sea at least American women arc
justly proud Of their figures. They
have been willing to sacrifice a good
deal to keep the ideal lines, and they
will not conceal it by any such ugly
garment as the barrel skirt.
Rare Old Laces are Revived.
HlleIHOOll IuuCtiohS diC many a.
this season and afternoon dress has
taken on some very interesting fea
lures. Lace is scarce, also are other
trimmings. Paris has solved the
problem by making SIMPLE gowns and
wearing with them laces that have
been lying away in the family treasure
house, fchues and collars and what
not to relieve the simplicity. At a
notable function of the week was seen
a straight chenlise dress. simple as
could be, Of violet panne velvet with
beautiful lace at the neck and sleeves
the only trimming. Heavy lace is
being used for waistcoats with the
bolero gowns and fancy coats, That
it is old lace only adds to its beauty
and charm and the hint may be worth
reading to women who have treasures
hidden away. Oriental embroideries
continue all their vogue. For the
waistcoats already mentioned, the !.
rich Chinese embroideries are much
liked and are exceedingly handsome.
A Season of Contrasts.
Very long blouses that really form
tunics are handsome and are generally
becoming, and are to make feature
OF the Mid-winter afternoon dress.
A most attractive one met at hotel
tea is Of soft grey velvet over skirt
of pale blue crepe de chine, the skirt
being plated. A grey ninon was made
much on the lines Of heightened
MILDLY blouse, finished around the
lower edge with stenciling in Greek
design of red and blue and narrow
stenciling finishing the round neck
line. 1t was worn over satin foun-
dalton of the same shade and just the
little bit Of bright color in the stem
cling gave the only relief.
Trench and camp. [volume] (Augusta, Ga.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-05

In Canada. after the adoption of the
two-cent rate for postal cards and the
three-cent rate for letters, the sale of
picture postals at the Woolworth stores
decreased one-half.
Trench and camp. [volume] (Augusta, Ga.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-05
GENERAL BYNG

Lieut.. Gen. Sir Julian Hedworth
Byng, hero of the hour in Great Brit
ain, is So years old. He was the sew
enth son Of the second Earl of STAFF
ford and entered the British military
service when he was 81, joining the 10th
Royal Hussars.
Byng was in - amand Of the British
forces in EgyLs when the war broke
out, and he was called back for service.
He had then been decorated three times
for service in the Soudan expedition
end in South Africa.
Byng was made a major general in
1909 and his high qualities of leader
ship, displayed during this year. won
him the lieutenant generalship he now
holds.
His wife, Mrs Marie Evelyn Byng,
is author of two well-known books,
Barriers" and "Anne Of the Marsh
land"
Byng succeeded General Henry AL
lenby in command of the British Third
Army. when Allenby was sent to Egypt.
last June.
He was in command Of the Canadian
corps up to the time he went to the
Third Army He was put in command
Of the Canadians in May 1911, after his
return from the Dardanelles, where he
commanded the Ninth Corps in the
later stages of the Inflated campaign
The Canadians were still under Byng
when they captured Vimy Ridge last
spring.
Trench and camp. [volume] (Augusta, Ga.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-05
A Good FelEouO
BY Malt Mason.

I'm feeling punk like pile Of junk,
and | don't know what to do; I've
spent my cash and acted rash and
came, my friends the same, to help
me spend my dough; was never
wrong, life was like a song while
I'had the "chink" to blow. [ awoke
one morn, my money was gone and
| hooked my watch and chains ! pocll-
eted my lends and looked for my
friends but | hunted them all in vain.
Now | am broke, people call me
joke and they laugh as they hear me
below / have fsown my wild oats
and they call me 81 dope for trying to
be a good fellow.
Trench and camp. [volume] (Augusta, Ga.) 1917-1919, 1917-12-05
uNDELIVERED MAIL.

Letters for VIM. E. Huffman and
Howard Acton, both addressed to Y.
M. C. A., Camp Hancock, lie unclaimed
at the Y M c. A. administration build
ing. 1t is probable they belong to some
soldiers in the camp and they may be
had any time by calling for them
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
TELL ENGAGEMENT
OF MISS SELLERS.
Active Church Worker Will
Become Bride of Minister
in the Late Fall

Mr.. and Mrs. Reuben Sellers, 612
Muench street, announce the en-
gagement Of their daughter. Miss
Helen Sellers, to the Rev. Charles
o. Houston. of Penbrook, pastor of
the Church of God. Camp Hill. Pa.
The wedding will be an event of
the Thanksgiving season.
Miss Sellers is actively engaged in
the various activities of the Maclay
Stteet Church of God, being n
teacher and musician of marked
ability.
The Rev. Mr.. Houston received
his education at Findlay College,
Findlay Ohio, and was assigned to
the Camp Hill Church, last month,
coming from the churches at Mata-
moras and Stone Glen. He was a
member of the Governors Troop for
six years and a member of Troop A
Pennsylvania State Police Force.
Rev. Houston is a son of the late
Rev. c. F. Houston, organizer
and pastor OF the Church of God at
Penhrook until his death in 1914.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
PERSONAL SOCIAL
Dept. For War Relief
in Session Here Today

The Pennsylvania Railroad Depart
ment No. for War Relief, Mrs.
William B, McCaleb, chairman, met
this afternoon at $50 o'clock in the
Civic Club house, for business and
social session.
Mrs. McCaleb presided and ad-
dresses were made concerning the
care of the families of railroad men
who are in the country's service by
Mrs. Atterbury, Mrs. Elisha Lee,
Mrs. Massey and several local
speakers.
Tea was served with Mrs. Jesse L.
B. Cunningham and Mrs. George
Kunkel presiding over the tea cups,
assisted by Mrs. Edward +. Dunlap,
Mrs. John Thornton Balsley, Mrs.
Harry j. Babb, Mrs. William L.
Denehey, Mrs. George E. Brown,
Mrs. George w. Humble and Mrs.
Harry q. Huber.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
CHRISTMAS DRIVE
FOR MEMBERS
Red Cross Drive to Reach
Total of Fifteen Million
in United States

Mechanicsburg. Pa. Nov. O.
Next week the local Red Cross will
move from the rooms they now oc-
cupy in West Main street to rooms
in the Business Mems League house
in East Main street. for the winter
season. The rooms will be open for
workers every afternoon and two
evenings a week, Monday and Thurs
day.
Word has been received that a
nationwide Christmas memb bership
uilNe has been planned by the Red
Cross War Council. in which the
members here will arrange to par
uclpate. The building up of the
ked Cross membership to 10000
900 in the United States is the goal
OF the campaign. The drive is to
start December II and continue un-
ceaslngly up to Christmas Eve
Make 1t Red Cross Christmas"
Is TO be the recruiting slogan. Every
one taking out a membership in the
Red Cross during the drive period
Will be known as christmas men,
ber."
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
Benefit Song Recitals
For County W. c. 7. U.

The first of two song recitals for
the benefit of the Dauphin County
w. c. 4. u. will be held this evening
in Fahnestock Hall, beginning at
SIS o'clock. Nine. Enrichetti
Onelli, prima donna will be assisted
by Miss Malvina Ehrlich. pianiste
and Signor Philip Sevasta, harpist.
These artists come with the best of
recommendation for their first ap-
pearance before Harrisburg audi
ence. 1t is hoped that the musical
people of the city will turn out for
this benefit which means so much to
the temperance workers, in Il none
tary way.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
G. B. L. Club Organized
and Well Entertained

Miss Helen Smith. North Seven
teenth street entertained the MEM
bers of the G.. l.. +. Club at her
home last evening. rne club has Just
been organized and it was decided to
have meeting every Wednesday.
They will knit for the soldiers and
in order to conserve food refresh
ments will consist of just one thing.
The next meeting will he held at the
home of Miss Josephine Prowell,
Twenty-first and Kensington streets.
Refreshments were served to Miss
Margaret Mussleman. Miss Josephine
Prowcll, Miss Catherine Barringer.
Miss Ruth Spots, Miss Helen Smith
and Miss Catherine Schilnnger.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09

Runk, Harrisburg; John H. Wolf.
Harrisburg; Robert w. Walter.
Richmond, KY; Ned ]. Bender, Eb-
ensburg; Foster l.. Dunlap, Harris
burg: James p. Harris, Harrisburg;
Edward W. Engel, Philadelphia;
James II. Ferrier, Homer city;
George w. Olewine, Harrisburg;
John f. O'Connell, Bradford; Har-
ry T. McFadden, Harrisburg; Nor
man o. Johns. Harrisburg; Emmett
K, Barner, Harrisburg; Chalmer @.
Moore, Harrisburg; Albert c. Mi
chael. Harrisburg; Ralph Fiorita,
risburg; Harry NJ. Speraw, Harris
burg: Edgar r. Baldosser, Harris
burg; John Kakermanes, Harris
burg; Samuel Antony, Harrisburg;
Charles II. Straub, Williams,own;
Cecil C. Crull, Pembroke; Daniel II.
Berger, Harrisburg.
The Wire Company-Henry Levin,
Harrisburg; Leo NJ. Huntsberger,
Carlisle; Harvey NJ. Miller, New
town. Md: Edgar j. Jeffrdes. Middle
town; Harry E. Lensbower, Marion;
Samuel L. Bartles, Harrisburg; Ray
mond |. Hall, Harrisburg; Harry l..
Bricker, Glen Rock; John j. Cul-
hane, Harrisburg; Arthur G. Boyne,
Carlisle; Claude r. Hefiieman, New
Cumberland; Hobart r. Smell, New
Market; Leslie S. Liddick, Harris
burg; Austin r. Boyne, Harrisburg;,
Howard b. Whiting, Rossville; John
+. Grass, Harrisburg; Thomas l..
Yingst, Harrisburg; Charles c. Hol-
land. Harrisburg; David r. Rollins,
Chambersburg; Ray S. Layser, Rich
land.
Outpost Company - Joseph D.
Sites, Williamstown; George w.
Trump, Harrisburg: Howard w.
Perry Harrisburg; Harry E. Zorger,
Harrisburg; David E. Malick, Har-
risburg; William f. Ritner, Harris
burg; Matthew r. Robinson, Port
Royal; George G.. Morrett, Steelton.
Sergeant Eugene Sanderson. Il. f.
Barner. ]. L. O'Connell, L. S. Lid
dick, Andrew Pauls, John H. Hoer-
ner, Samuel Bartles. Harry Zorger,
Corporal A. c. Michael, f. l, Dun
lap. S. f. Smith, William Alberts. f.
f. Bastin, w. G. Fleck, Paul Brattan,
L. L. Lerch, John Gross, Cecil Crull.
Harry McCadden. Henry Baldosser,
George Olewine, Chalmer Moore,
Alvin Colestock, Victor Drayer, Jonn
Oren. c. A. Neiss. Joseph Durbin,
c. Il. Heffleman, Harry Flynn.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
Church Choir to Sing
Famous Cantata, Esther

The beautiful old cantata Esther
the Beautiful Queen" by William n.
Bradbury. will be sung Sunday even
ing, November IL, in the State Street
United Brethren Church. by the
choir under the direction of Profess
sor I. Havard Davies. Miss Anna
StotZ, at the piano.
The cantata is most dramatic and
tells the Bible story of Esther in
solos, duets, quartets and choruses.
1t is many years since this great work
has been sung here and everyone
will be delighted to hear ii again.
The morning service of this church
will be an ingathering and rally day
exercise, led by the new pastor the
Rev. II. +. RhoadS. The Rev. j. 4.
Sprenkel, of New Cumberland, Will
make the morninS address.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09

farewell demonstration will be a
short farewell address and godspeed
to be delivered from the steps of the
Pennsylvania railroad station just
prior to the entraining of the boys.
The Rev. Lewis S. Nudge, pastor of
the Pine Street Presbyterian Church,
will deliver the address.
Line OF March
Sergeant Sanderson, who will be in
charge of the members of the Signal
Reserve Corps, will meet the boys
from the upper end of the county in
the recruiting office of the Army at
325 Market street, this evening at
7.10. The rest of the men, those
who parade tonight, and the mem
bers of the corps not yet summoned
to their camp, are asked to report
at the recruiting station at 7.S0, to
take part in the parade.
The parade will form at Front and
Market streets at 7.S0 and march
promptly at eight. The line of march
is from Market and Front to Second,
10 Boas, to Third. to Market, to the
PENNSYLVANIA Railroad station.
There will be two divisions in The
parade, the first to be led by the
Municipal Band. The first division
will be composed of the G.. a. r. vet
Grams, veterans of the Spanish AMER
lean and Foreign Wars, the Harris
burg Reserves, and the Signal Re-
serve Corps. In the second division
which will be led by the Common
wealth Band, the Boy Scouts, Dout-
richs Marching Club, the New Store
of William Strouse, Kaufman's I'm
derselling Store, the Ben Strouse
Marching Club. the. employees of the
Globe store, and Dives, Pomeroy and
Stewart, will march.
Members of the Unit
The members of the Signal Re-
serve Corps are as follows:
Radio Company-Stover NJ. Smith,
Lemasters; Clarence II. Flickinger,
Williamstown; Joseph w. Durhln,
Williamstown; Howard &. Ellinger,
Ridgway; Harry w. Hook, New Cum
berland; Clinton NJ. Graybill, Har-
risburg; Roy l.. Lightner, Landis-
burg; Arthur L. Campbell, Newport;
William NJ. Alberts, Harrisburg Ira
l. Wilt, Harrisburg; Robert e.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
Girl Scouts Houseparty
Is Held at .Manada Gap

Troop No. 7; Girls Scout Band, will
motor to the Mccormick cottage.
Manada Gap, to-day. to spend the
weekend there. The girls will be
chaperoned by Miss Anna Murray.
scout leader. The party includes:
Miss Anna Murray, Mrs. Murray.
Miss Nellie Ard, Miss Margaret
Jacobie, Miss Martha Goodyear. Miss
Eliza beth Murray. Miss Miriam
Clrich, Miss Esther Wheeler, Miss
Susan Moltz. Miss Ethelyn McClosky,
Miss Cordelia Morgan, Miss Grace
Robinson and Miss Frances Cation.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1917-11-09
RED GROSS BENEFIT

AillersburS, Nov. 9.-Local talent
will give a musical comedy. The
Merry Travellers" under the auspices
of the finance committee of the Red
Cross Society, in the Lyric theater
Wednesday and Friday of next week
under the direction of Edna Gray
Schaaf. This promises to be the
biggest and best home talent produc-
ton ever given here. People of the
town will take the leading parts.
Tickets are on sale at Stars drug
store.