Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1917-08-05

that every woman likes to ask for sam
Piles as an excuse for being in a shop and
wants goods sent up on approval as an
added excitement to her life. She may
that. They take the enormous wastage
of material as q matter Of course ana
they accept the wastage in values which
comes from being compelled to throw mil
lions OF dollars Of returned goods on the
They tell you that the system is evil,
but they insist that each must do 1t be-
cause the other does 1t. II the war wipes
out both these evils with one great,
sweeping movement Of the governmental
hand. then. women, merchants. shopping
and valuations viii be improved.
Despite the fact that the new color
card for 1913 shows IA colors: the news
that drifts over from Paris gives one
feeling that the adoption of black and
white will be insisted upon for the. au-
tumn. The smartest women one sees In
this country are emphasizing unusual and
original combinations OF black and white
in their costumes.
White muslins with black hats have been
a constant fashion seen at all the re-
sorts since June. 1t is quite natural that
these two colors should hold their own
despite the introduction of anything else,
and the woman who believes in them and
considers them trump cards to play at
all seasons of the year whenever she Is in
doubt about the rest Of the fashion game
is secure in her belief IL she accepts the
new innovations.
There are, unfortunately. battalions Of
women who believe in black because they
have not the energy. inspiration or cour-
age to seek farther afield in the color
scheme Of fashion. They buy a black
suit because such purchase is along the
line of least resistance. They have an
erroneous and futile idea that black is
always elegant and becoming. Ex-
traordinary judgment. this. 1t should
be sponged out of the minds of women.
Black is a difficult color to wear. 1t
commonplace in more ways than any
other color we have. In combination with
white. it can break all laws OF line.
shadow and perspective. Women should
be trained to handle 1t with care as they
would an explosive.
Dark blue has many of the possibilities
which the majority claim for black, and
It may be said. In a sweeping manner.
that in its deeper tones. known as crow
and midnight. the choice of it is playing
for safety.
1t Is from the French theaters that the
reporters of fashion in France get their
strong conviction that original methods in
black and white. in combination, will take
a leading part in the clothes to be ushered
in during September.
1t takes an artist to originate new jux-
X
fore. the French artists and their Amer
lean colleagues are in high feather when
they are working for originality along
this line.
Gowns on the French stage. as well as
those worn at smart resorts in this coun-
try, show. for instance, the revival Of the
polonaise. in black satin line with white
satin. dropped over q skirt of white satin.
with a bodice Of black. showing waist
coat Of white. The polonaise of the hour
n
xIV's time. 1t is merely two long.
slightly full panels which are placed at
the sides of the skirt. which almost meet
at the back and which drop to the
knees.
In the new garments which will be
shown in mid-August. IN Paris. this new
movement Of the skirt will be accen-
tuated. AS fragile velvet and fur will be
the combination of the autumn. these
swinging panels from the waist will be
made Of both fabrics.
It may have been known by the de-
signers in this country that the American
army in France would be supplied with
wool. for the trench fighting. ~ ~
Whether or not the designers were
aware OF this fact. It Is curiously interest
ing that they have introduced that gar
ment in women's costumery. It Is minus
ner and worn outside of the hours de-
voted to sport.
1t began its career in leather and 1t
ended in Lyon velvet and Russian
women and designers. because II was
introduced at the right moment. 1t is
what our Sammies will wear in France.
1t is in keeping with the emphatic trend
to hide the waist line when it is sharply
marked by the joining OF the shirt waist